There is a proper Subforum for modding and modders, but I'm no modder and they speak a language over there that few of us do so I think most CPF members might not be inclined to browse around over there. So I completely understand if this gets moved or deleted, but I wanted to get this info out there if possible.
This whole project is CPF based. I found my 120E for $89 on LAPolice after browsing through GreenLED's fantastic
CPF discount page, then I did the
250 Click Mod that LLCoolBeans posted about. Good so far, but there was the issue of the tint and output. The tint wasn't
bad, just a bit blue-ish, especially when compared to my beloved Liteflux LF3XT, (thanks DHart!), and I imagined that the output could be just a bit higher.
Looked around and figured out that you couldn't just drop any old emitter in due to the limitations of the hole that the emitter mounts in, saw a modder who milled it out, but I didn't want to go to that extreme. Surfed around and saw
this offered by PhotonFanatic and pulled the trigger on a couple.
And now my world is forever changed.
Here's the 45 minute, (I'm slow), modification:
Original emitter:
Original emitter removed. De-soldered and lifted out. "Held" in by thermal paste.:
The new emitter, legs straightened out:
Straightened vs. Unstraightened:
Put a blob of thermal paste down and soldered legs:
Here are the results comparing the LF3XT(which used to be just as bright and much more pleasing white) to the Novatac.
I am shocked by the results. I had to check the battery in the Liteflux to see if it was depleted. I have an EZ123 that I compared it to. Similar results, the Novatac stomps all over the EZ123 and leaves it looking blue.
*******Hints********
A large fingernail clipper helped get the emitter down to size.
Use a VOM to determine the (+) side. I used the Ohm setting on the original and noticed which way the emitter lit up when touched with the test leads and oriented the replacement accordingly.
A lighted magnifying lamp made the operation much easier.
Solder sucker is always helpful for this kind of work.
Use a low wattage iron and very thin solder.
So, if you're feeling adventurous give it a try! Or, experiment on some DX cheapies first and then move up to the big guns.
I'm off to figure out the nomenclature of the modders and emitter gurus and then I'll be able to tell you what I've done to my light in proper terms.
Photography disclaimer: All pictures were taken with my iPhone. The closeups were done by placing a 30x DX loupe in front of the lens.
The beamshot makes it look like the LF3XT was very dim, it wasn't, it's just that the Novatac was so bright the camera used a fast "shutter speed".
