Assembling a tape-switch tailcap

I'm not exactly sure what I'll do with this, but been collecting parts as they came on the scene. Of course it'll be a weapon-mounted torch, but I've no thought of the rest of the design just yet.

A tape-switch, with the tailcap internals. No idea what they came from.
An electronic switch, which I may not use for this particular build.
And the skinny SW01 (I think) that just showed up today. The switch internals fit like a glove in the tailcap, but I'm have to think about waterproofing.



The switch internals are too short to reach to the butt of the battery. I'll consider how to bridge this gap next. Will probably fashion a spring, as this is meant to withstand the recoil from a rifle.

Surefire's remote switch assembly used a large thick o ring that fit in between the tail cap and the internals. tightening the cap made for a good seal. That also might make up the extra space you need. their O ring is about two to three times the thickness of yours. Hope this helps.

So I've decided to not use the tapeswitch internals. I'll lathe an assembly to house the FET electronic switch.

The body is a fivemega E head to C tail.
Head is an Aleph A19, however I'm modifying it to house a Convoy S2 reflector
Tail is the surefire SW01 skinny
Tape switch, well, I've not figured that one out. I'll either use the guts from the one pictured, or I have a shorter tapeswitch meant for a Novatac.



Yes, you should always modify the less expensive part. I didn't follow that route. I opened up the Aleph head by another millimeter. I feel the Convoy reflector fits the XPL-Hi better than the Aleph reflector. Here is an image of the test fit after boring.


The part turned out better than I figured, but this is really only a test. I wanted to work out the dimensions before making the final part. I feel this needs to be a two part situation. Top part (where the tapeswitch wire will come through) will be delrin. This is to not ground out the battery. The part towards the battery will be aluminum or maybe brass. I may end up using a metal ring for battery contact, in lieu of a spring. This FET switch takes up a decent amount of space.
You can see where the board doesn't fit flush with the aluminum. The final one will have some cutouts for the edges of the battery housing, making it flush.



I'll probably shorten this, so not as much sticks out from the tailcap.


Next part, waiting for another toolholder before I can continue.