HDS 2xAA FlashLight

Hi all ..


I would really appreciate some help before my purchase of a HDS flashlight, in all honesty my knowledge of flashlights and especially LED choice is all a bit bewildering , yes i could purchase a ready made unit from there website but im looking for a AA battery set up , so this is where you gents are needed. PLEASE help me pick the correct LED.


So I live in the UK and 123 batteries are not the best option for a EDC flashlight, there quite rare still and when you can find them there's a price premium.


So this is where I am -

Im looking at a custom HDS Rotary but using a 2xAA tube instead of the standard 123, but as im using a 2xAA would there be a correct choice of LEDs, would there be much run time difference between a 200Lum Vs 325Lum ,also has there been any issues regarding the Rotary, I've not heard of any.



Theses are the 5 LEDs I can choose from



*250 Lumens ( cool white 6200k ) Cree XP-G2 ....... This LED has a CRI of around 72
This LED produces a calibrated 250 lumens of cool white output. The cool white output is around 6200°K, making it somewhat cooler than sunlight at noon


*325 Lumens ( cool white 6200k ) Cree LP-L ........ This LED has a CRI of around 72
This LED produces a calibrated 325 Lumen of cool white output. The beam pattern is somewhat wider than our normal beam patterns due to the larger emission area of this LED. The cool white output is around 6200°K, making it somewhat cooler than sunlight at noon.


*325 Lumens (neutral white ) Cree XP-G3 ......... This LED has a CRI of around 71
The beam pattern is the same as our 250 lumen LED and thus has a longer throw compared to our other 325 lumen LED. The neutral white output is around 5000°K, making it somewhat warmer than sunlight at noon.

Hello and welcome!

I approved your post and moved it to the HDS subforum, where the HDS junkies hangout. This is where you'll get the best info!

The rotary mechanism is solid. No worries there. Regarding efficiency, Henry's golden rule is 1A @ 3v. Since the low CRI Crees are more efficient, they generate more lumens (up to 325). The high CRI Nichias, on the other hand, are a bit less efficient, and therefore generate less output at the same maximum current draw.

The choice comes down to preference and use case. Many of us (including me) prefer the superior color rendition of the high CRI Nichia emitters and are more than willing to suffer a lumens penalty. (not much difference in terms of brightness anyway). Some HDS fans prefer maximum lumens, even at the cost of color rendition. They tend to choose the 250 or the 325, based on their preference for beam profile. At the moment, the high noon is the only high CRI option on offer, although we are expecting more options at some point early this year.

The 2AA tube makes life easy in terms of battery selection. I don't own one yet (CR123's are easily obtainable in my area) but someday I will. No matter what you choose, it will be awesome.

Cheers

If I'm only going to buy one expensive tool, I'm buying a Hi CRI HDS. That way I can spend $50-$60 per light if I want to dabble in the lumens war. You've obviously done some research to be where you are in your decision-making process.

Good luck with your decision!

Honesty when I get stumped on a question like this I go right to the horses mouth. So to speak. Give Henry a call at HDS.Especially about the runtime with AA tube. He is great to talk to an can tell you the answer in about Two seconds.

Regarding the batteries the aa tube is not interchangeable with a head that's been programmed to lithium ion and vice versa it will damage the light.

Cr123, I was in the uk now somewhere else where it's impossible to get 123 batteries. I m in the sticks... BUT after spending high dollars at Sainsburys and Morrison's I invested in a Xtar dragon vp4 dragon charger and different batteries (you can get really good batteries from vape stores etc online or at a proper store ) do not buy these on eBay or amazon unless you seriously know what you are getting. Torch direct uk is good also.

So then you can choose a cr123 tube and will be able to use an 18650 tube as well.

the 250 325 xpg and the high noon would be my recommendations and for less than £80 you can get a really good setup with rechargeable batteries and charger which 1 battery says it's good for 500 charges or cycles. Mine have already paid for themselves. I do like the idea of the aa tube but length kills it for me and the fact you can't use the same head with a 123 or 18650 tube.

hiptinite said:

Im looking at a custom HDS Rotary but using a 2xAA tube instead of the standard 123, but as im using a 2xAA would there be a correct choice of LEDs, would there be much run time difference between a 200Lum Vs 325Lum ,also has there been any issues regarding the Rotary, I've not heard of any.

Click to expand...

Emitter choice is very much a matter of personal preference. No matter which emitter you chose, it will not make any difference in relation to the battery tube. Many prefer hiCRI as the color rendering is much better, others prefer higher output. It really all depends on how you will use the light and which is more important to you.

Here is a runtime table on the various battery types and sizes: We provide two different runtimes - tactical runtimes and ANSI runtimes. We always list the ANSI runtime, which is defined as the runtime down to 10% of the origional lumen output. If a particular setting produces over 50 lumens, we also list a tactical runtime, which is defined as the runtime down to 50 lumens.

usdiver said:

Regarding the batteries the aa tube is not interchangeable with a head that's been programmed to lithium ion and vice versa it will damage the light.

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Not correct. The 2AA tube works with any head. The programming is no different.

Hogokansatsukan said:

Emitter choice is very much a matter of personal preference. No matter which emitter you chose, it will not make any difference in relation to the battery tube. Many prefer hiCRI as the color rendering is much better, others prefer higher output. It really all depends on how you will use the light and which is more important to you.

Here is a runtime table on the various battery types and sizes: We provide two different runtimes - tactical runtimes and ANSI runtimes. We always list the ANSI runtime, which is defined as the runtime down to 10% of the origional lumen output. If a particular setting produces over 50 lumens, we also list a tactical runtime, which is defined as the runtime down to 50 lumens.

Not correct. The 2AA tube works with any head. The programming is no different.

Click to expand...

Sincere apologies as I read this on the site... unless I read wrong.

Mine is the 3 o'clock shadow ir whatever it was called and I love it fir sure but I also interchange it a lot with other heads easily too.

I think the only downside for me is the obvious?

How much retention does that clip have on the 2AA body? I ask because the clip comes to rest on the slender part of the battery tube, rather than on the head of the flashlight, as it would with a CR123 battery tube.

Modernflame said:

How much retention does that clip have on the 2AA body? I ask because the clip comes to rest on the slender part of the battery tube, rather than on the head of the flashlight, as it would with a CR123 battery tube.

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I have the clip mounted to the rotary dial on all of mine with that clip and it seems about the same on each if them.
The light never really goes far enough into any pocket that I have to use the clip though![emoji41]

usdiver said:

Sincere apologies as I read this on the site... unless I read wrong.

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I did read wrong or misunderstood what I read. The site says not to use lithium ion rechargeable batteries in the aa compartment as they will damage the flashlight.... 🤔
Hence I was thinking lithium ie rechargeable 16340 would damage the light... no?

Most likely it was meant that in the body 2 * AA you should not push 2 * 14500, as in the body 18650 you should not put 2 * CR123 or 2 * 16340.

desert.snake said:

Most likely it was meant that in the body 2 * AA you should not push 2 * 14500, as in the body 18650 you should not put 2 * CR123 or 2 * 16340.

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Exactly how I read it.

Heres another comparo pic too

usdiver said:

Sincere apologies as I read this on the site... unless I read wrong.

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It says to not use lithium rechargeable batteries in the 2AA tube because you would then be giving over 8 volts to the elf... and the elf will get electrocuted and the magic smoke will leave the light. It's all about voltage.

Ahhhhhh that makes sense.
So you can use a aa tube OR a cr123/ 16340 tube OR a 18650 tube with the same head as long as you don't change the voltage for the elf?

usdiver said:

Ahhhhhh that makes sense.
So you can use a aa tube OR a cr123/ 16340 tube OR a 18650 tube with the same head as long as you don't change the voltage for the elf?

Click to expand...

Exactly.

Thanks for that Hogo

Hogokansatsukan said:

It says to not use lithium rechargeable batteries in the 2AA tube because you would then be giving over 8 volts to the elf... and the elf will get electrocuted and the magic smoke will leave the light. It's all about voltage.

Click to expand...

Very interesting, is 8 volts it the last change or does it apply to all flashlights?
That is, we can put 2 * CR123 in the body 18650?
I always thought that it was insecure to do this because of this warning.

4.2 volts or the elf dies.
Putting 2 lithium's in the 18650 = elf R.I.P. and not even Henry can revive him. The magic smoke leaves the light.