E2e switch problem.

Got a strange one going on here. I have a new model clicky switch on my e2e.worked just fine. i put it on my E2d and it doesn't work.ok so I put it back on my e2e and now it's momentary only! It clicks but won't stay on.if I losen the head a little I can get it to click on/off sporadically. I'm thinking something is up with it making contact because it's full power when I click it on but when I release the button and it does stay on it is dimmer. I got no clue. Anything?

Is this a Surefire clicky switch? And what batteries are you running? The fact that you can click it on with the head loosened makes me wonder if there is a fitment issue. Do you have to tighten the tail cap down unnaturally hard to make contact?

Ok yep it's a sf clicky. Brand new replaced by them under warranty. Standard sf primary batteries.i have a e to c adapter on it running a p60 it's all very confusing because the e2e switch will work withe my E2d and vme head but my E2d switch will not work on my e2e🤪 it's acting like it's my e2e body that's the problem

I'll figure it out in the morning while working on this problem my little one just lost my HDS! Time to turn off all the lights and look for the little blink blink. Have another kid at 48 they all said. It will be fun they said. Lmao Breathe just breathe breathe just breathe

Look inside the two tail switches. Is there a difference between the contact points. The most recent have 3 copper contact areas.

Bill

I was thinking that photos of the tail caps might help.

Did you try running the e2e with vme head and e2d tailcap?

my bet is on the e to c adapter.

Is the E2C adapter Vital Gear? I got one recently that didn't seem to work (although the previous Lumens Factory one did), so I ended up putting a fairly thin-gauge brass coil spring in, that would fit inside the inner diameter of the VG adapter, and which then made contact with the base of the led module. That solved the problem. I just ordered a cheap set of springs from Kaidomain (for 26.5mm heads) to use with another VG E2C in what will be a rarely used P60 UV module in a beat-up Z44. I prefer the much increased "gripability" of the Vital Gear E2C, although the LF E2C is visually less obtrusive.

That's funny! Hope you have controlled your breathing and the HDS is found.

Have you tried removing tail cap and making contact with neg battery to tube? This may show if p60 or tail cap end. Just a thought.

Ok found hds! Inside toy refrigerator bottom shelf. 3year old has no idea how it got there 🧐 Guys I got more then one problem here I have to do some more research and get back to you.my E2d and e2e switches are different internals for sure. E2d looks like it has a plastic ring that fits inside battery tube. E2e has a metal ring. Have bypassed switch and p60 lights up just fine.i just can't understand why my E2d switch will not work on e2e body and why my e2e switch works just fine on the E2d it's almost like it's the e2e body. But that don't make sense

euroken said:

Did you try running the e2e with vme head and e2d tailcap?

my bet is on the e to c adapter.

Click to expand...

Yep. Nothing.

Well, thought I'd try

If Surefire doesn't take care of you, let me know and I have one or two e series internals (just a clicky) I can send your way. However, you risk scratching up the tailcap removing the retaining ring. If you do get the ring off, I suggest putting in a McClicky. Oveready used to sell a trimmed down version of the McClicky to fit in Z57.

If the problem is with E2e body...perhaps the thread length is a bit short? Can you compare it with the E2D?

No. thanks for all the advice after work I'll put on top gear in the background for noise and start trying stuff

Am of little help on the e-series lights, but just wanted to make sure all is configured with 2xCR123 - I know that the 16650/17650 LiIons are often shorter or longer, and can occasionally contribute to tailcap oddities.
Best of luck,