Modify Surefire E2L Outdoorsman?

Buck91

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Any thoughts on modding my old Outdoorsman? It's a solid light in almost perfect condition but the output and runtime don't really compare with modern lights... plus it has that punky optic which gives an intense hotspot with minimal spill.

Looking at DIY options but a am hesitant to void the Surefire warranty. It's a great, durable light but it just doesn't get used due to the dated tech inside.

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Kestrel

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IMO the E2L-O never had much going for it, and was one of the few classic SF's I've never owned.
If I did have one, it would probably sit in a drawer while I used other lights.

There is at least one talented modder currently doing SF's right here on the forum, that would be my first choice to make the light useful. While the SF warranty is a very nice asset to retain, it doesn't make up for a light not being useful.

I do have substantial experience with that TIR optic; by far the best (& most straightforward) upgrade for the head is to swap that ancient XR-E (IIRC) emitter with a larger, more modern, & more efficient large-die XM-L etc (/not/ the smaller XP-G line). You will end up with more output, but will also be a much more useful (IMO) floody beam w/ very nice characteristics. Two of my three SF L1's with their TIR optic have been modded in such a fashion, and they are now some of my favorite lights.

If you wanted more background info on this option, check out some of the older threads by /Pulsar/, IIRC.

Hope this helps,
 
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night.hoodie

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Surefire product holds its value, and though every modder believes they will increase the value with a mod, the reality with Surefire pieces is that modding an OEM Surefire head will be a wash (value will not increase), and more likely, it will half the resale value of the piece (even if it is far far better), and at worst, it will be immeasurably less reliable.

Up until very recently, there were cheap aftermarket E series LED conversion heads available on eBay for $20 or less, but just looking now, I only see Surefire OEM and Lumens Factory upgrades, which is quality and performance for which you must pay. But I was going to recommend grabbing a cheap knockoff E series LED head, then modifying that to your heart's content (or just send to Vinh for extreme LED services, or High CRI LED swap, copper bonding, etc.), while leaving your stock Surefire pieces and their warranty intact.

Sometimes you can find loose E Series Elite incan heads, and Lumens Factory will be eventually releasing a version of the E Series incan head. You could get an incan head, a Tad Customs socket and lamps for running T. Customs durable and inexpensive xenon bipin lamps with primary or secondary cells. With fivemega's FM1794 lamps, and adjusting an Elite bezel to allow room for the longer lamp, you can achieve over 1000lm of incan with IMR cells, which would be a major upgrade in brightness and throw for E2L Outdoorsman (though runtime will be reduced drastically).

Overready made the WASP v5, some great triple LED heads that sometimes reappear in WTS areas on these forums. Sunwayman' v11r head is E Series compatible, with infinintely variable brightness.

However...
A VME head with a Malkoff drop-in is a nice option.

is probably... the quickest, slickest and most reliable option (among a vast array of stuff you can do instead), will likely bring the most satisfaction for the longest period, and increase the value of the system indefinitely for at least what you paid (granting a fuzzy margin depending on how fast you wanted to sell).
 
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Nephron44

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May 30, 2016
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If you can't find any desirable way to mod it, I will buy it from you as is...I've been looking for one of these! PM me if you want to part with it!
 

ven

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I have an E1L , think it's around 5/80 low/high. It's a pretty clean white and been using it around the house. It's pretty intense as said with that optic. It also does not like 4.2v fuel, blinks high/low/ repeat. So for now it's CR123 of which I have a good few anyway(no biggie). An xpl HI would be crazy if can be done, or for a more EDC friendly for me, a nichia . Also can't help but wonder if an sst20 would work well, small die, decent throw and hi cri.

Or go all out for a Tana tripLED !
 

Kestrel

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[The E1L ...] does not like 4.2v fuel, blinks high/low/ repeat. So for now it's CR123 [...]
Ah yes, I seem to recall that now as well. A dealbreaker for me, which is prob. why I never owned one. A little risky on 2xLiIon (@ 7.6Vin vs. 5.0Vin), and the E2-series driver /may/ need more voltage than 1xLiIon can deliver.

Edit: on the other hand, the E1 driver is a boost circuit (2.5Vin -> ~3.8V), while the E2 driver is a buck circuit (~5.0Vin). So 1xLiIon may merely act as a rather gentile direct-drive due to the voltage overhead in the driver. More archival research is needed by the OP to ascertain if the E2 driver does well with 1xLiIon. If so, those new high-capacity 16650's would be a /very/ nice upgrade.

Two options IMO;
- $60-80 for an emitter upgrade for somewhat higher overall output & a nice floody beam, then loaded with 2xCR123 primaries for a backup light (or 1x16650 for 'guilt-free lumens', if compatible w/ 1xLiIon).
- or, sell it as-is & purchase something else that you'd find more useful.
 
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archimedes

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I think purely on a dollars-and-cents level, you would come out ahead by buying something new and selling this, rather than spending a lot to (irreversibly) mod it + losing value as a collectible.

Quality SF mods (of the sealed head assemblies) are pretty costly, and almost all vintage value of the stock item is lost.

There are certainly simple parts swaps that can be done, as noted above.

If the item has sentimental value to you, and would see continued service with an "upgrade" of some sort, then things may pencil out differently.

Or if you are a hobbyist / modder and get value from the project itself, perhaps.
 

night.hoodie

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I will buy it from you as is...I've been looking for one of these! PM me if you want to part with it!

Best option ever, I can't believe it did not occur to me as it is very often the case: someone will buy it from you, then you have a budget for a new light. But what's funny is everyone knows you should probably get more E and personalize. Lumens Factory and Malkoff have pieces to build a complete E for less than Surefire with similar build quality. RPM has some E bodies and tails in exotic metals for sale elsewhere on CPF. fivemega has some fun E Series compatible products for sale. Surefire has a few new very bright lights (EDCL, Tactician) that are more competitively priced, you may just be able to trade one for another with another CPF member.
 
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ven

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Ah yes, I seem to recall that now as well. A dealbreaker for me, which is prob. why I never owned one. A little risky on 2xLiIon (@ 7.6Vin vs. 5.0Vin), and the E2-series driver /may/ need more voltage than 1xLiIon can deliver.

Edit: on the other hand, the E1 driver is a boost circuit (2.5Vin -> ~3.8V), while the E2 driver is a buck circuit (~5.0Vin). So 1xLiIon may merely act as a rather gentile direct-drive due to the voltage overhead in the driver. More archival research is needed by the OP to ascertain if the E2 driver does well with 1xLiIon. If so, those new high-capacity 16650's would be a /very/ nice upgrade.

Two options IMO;
- $60-80 for an emitter upgrade for somewhat higher overall output & a nice floody beam, then loaded with 2xCR123 primaries for a backup light (or 1x16650 for 'guilt-free lumens', if compatible w/ 1xLiIon).
- or, sell it as-is & purchase something else that you'd find more useful.

Yes, the 16650 is an awesome option for the 2 cell cr123 surefires, all mine have that fuel in them(bar 3 bored ones).

My little E1L is like new, might even just keep OE for a change, decisions decisions(not like i dont have enough triples).
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I can swap off the head for my 219b triples anyway
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For the E2d , i am trying out the lumens factory 319a module, so couple of weeks off for that yet.
wfrM42Kl.jpg


The L4 on the right is bored,
219b 5k triple/incand/xpe/singLED 219b 5k and 219b 4500k triple.
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So are these standard heads quite collectable then? Its not actually a bad beam, yes under powered by todays power houses. But i enjoy 60lm of incand., 80 LED lumens i can also cope with easy. It does punch out light very well, all things considered. But then this is a guy who hardly uses a 200lm HDS at max much, usually a little down the dial is ample. If i need big lumens for any duration(dog+field+dark for example) or fun, i just take a light that can run a few 1000lm's indefinitely.

All these choices, got to love being a flashaholic:D
 

DrafterDan

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Jul 28, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
I've done some of these mods for my own enjoyment. It involves lathing out the head to fit a new LED board, and machining a new pill to hold a modern 17mm driver.

End result first, because life is short
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Lathe work
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End of pill
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It takes a good amount of work, but doable. As far as value? I did it because I could. I believe it took about 4 hours of my time, and component cost.
 
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