# Lumapower - New LM301 and LM303



## Kilovolt (Jul 10, 2007)

Thanks to Qualityflashlights.at I have already received one LM301 and one LM303.

LM301 is a 1xAA and LM303 a 1x123.

They are both finished in a dark olive green anodize and the three parts of the lights are identical in color. Surface quality is very good as expected by a Lumapower true fan.
The switch is a three position reverse clickie and does off-low-high-off. There is however another possibility: one can for instance leave the clickie on high and undo the head by a quarter turn; the light will be switched off but when the head is tightened again it will go on at the previous level i.e. high. In this way you have a sort of level memory. The head's loosening acts also as a safety against accidental switching on.

The package contains the usual spare o-rings, an already attached lanyard as well as three rubber caps for the switch: red, black and GITD. The red one is installed on the light but changing is very easy. There is also a sheath very similar to the Fenix type.

Taking into account SSC P4 LED's and stippled reflectors these lights are designed as flooders and do an excellent job when walking around in the dark. Low is right for indoors and high good for a walk. Do not expect to pin on a wall a fox crossing your path 300 feet away. The beams are free from artifacts and there is a good and smooth transition between the hotspot and the spillbeam with a lot of the latter.

Overall a pair of good and reasonably priced EDC lights for those who do not like five levels and strobes.

Finally I feel I have to apologize for my poor capability in taking pics of beams on a white wall. Both lights are on high fed by primaries. I let the camera do the work and what you see here is the result....:shrug:






































:wave:


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## JKL (Jul 10, 2007)

Hi Kilovolt,
very interesting, thanks for your review and pictures :goodjob:.

Have you done some test about LM301 and LM303 runtimes? :thinking:

:wave:


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## marven (Jul 10, 2007)

Hi Kilovolt :wave:
Thanks for the interesting review and the photos :thumbsup:
My compliments for your 2 new Lumapower lights!
Would be interesting a side by side outdoor comparison with the most similar Fenixes, L1D-CE and P2D-CE.


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## AFAustin (Jul 10, 2007)

Kilovolt, thanks e very nice review and beautiful photos! 

When you have the chance, can you compare the 2 models, as to output, beam characteristics, etc., as well as your preferences. I am trying to decide between the two. :thinking: 

The LM303 appears to have quite a bit more output (esp. on an RCR123A, per the specs), but the dimmer hotspot on the LM301 may blend more smoothly into the spill? Also, from your photo, it appears that the LM303 has a wider spill?

Thanks again for a great post.


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## jsr (Jul 10, 2007)

Thanks for the pics Kilovolt! Really nice to see the LP LMs right next to their Fenix counterparts. As mentioned above, comparisons to the Fenix P2D and L1D would be great, along with runtime tests, if you could. The finish on the LMs look great...wish it was HA. Thanks again!


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## lumapower (Jul 10, 2007)

Hi Kilovolt,

Very nice review, thank you very much.

Best rgds.

Ricky - Lumapower Team


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## boosterboy (Jul 10, 2007)

Can you take a picture of the lights disassembled?

How is the machining?

Is there thread slop?


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## lumenal (Jul 10, 2007)

Thanks for the great photos Kilovolt.

So, as I understand it, the activation sequence is first low, and then high, and then off? In 3 consecutive clicks?


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## Ken 222 (Jul 10, 2007)

I have got to get wunna dees! Wunna each would be better.

Click on "more info" for..... uh, more info.

http://www.lumapower.com/New LM.htm


Ken


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## Kilovolt (Jul 11, 2007)

lumenal said:


> Thanks for the great photos Kilovolt.
> 
> So, as I understand it, the activation sequence is first low, and then high, and then off? In 3 consecutive clicks?


 
Your understanding is correct but as I said you can also leave the clickie on high and use the head as a switch.

BTW only the GITD rubber boot enables the light to tailstand...:thinking:...funny but it's even written in the instructions.


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## Kilovolt (Jul 11, 2007)

boosterboy said:


> Can you take a picture of the lights disassembled?
> 
> How is the machining?
> 
> Is there thread slop?


 
Yes for the pics, but please give me some time.

Machining is very accurate without any thread slop. For the first time on a new flashlight I didn't have to clean and lube the threads, would you believe it ?:thumbsup:


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## jsr (Jul 11, 2007)

Kilovolt,

The LMs seem to be very well made. Can you give your assessment of how the LumaPower LMs compare to their Fenix counterparts L1D and P2D in terms of machining and build quality? I've read posts about the thread slop on some Fenixes and wonder if the LMs are better made.
Thanks!


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## LEDAdd1ct (Jul 11, 2007)

Does "thread slop" mean the two pieces don't align properly when tightening, or, does it mean literally, there is "slop", or some sort of garbage/junk in the threads?

LEDAdd1ct


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## Kilovolt (Jul 12, 2007)

OK, here you will find some more pics comparing the two new Lumapower lights to their corresponding Fenix types i.e. 1xAA L1D CE and 1x123 P2D CE.

As you can see the sizes are very similar but IMHO the two brands follow different design approaches. Fenixes are basically throwers with smooth reflectors and a U.I. addressing flashaholics (my wife does not know that her L0D has more than one level...) while these Lumapowers are meant for floody beams and easy use. Having said that I would state that you find here exactly what you would expect to find on that basis. At this point a choice is a matter of personal taste and intended use and I will not get involved in this kind of discussion (F is much better than L......, no no no, L is much better than F....) which you sometimes find here.:naughty:

After a couple of days of use the two Luma still do not require cleaning and lubeing which says a lot about their QC. Their construction appears to be more looked after than Fenix'. If I am allowed to do so I would compare Lumapower to Mercedes (style & comfort) and Fenix to BMW (performance first). I believe that no one over the years has been able to conclude which is the best of the two...

Which of the two I like better and why? Well I surely prefer compact flashlights and consequently I like better LM303 as I like better P2D over P3D. LM303's beam is noticeably more powerful but its minimum level is unsuitable for nocturnal fridge raiding, too strong. So I will use 303 during the day......and 301 during the night....well you understand what I mean...

And here we go again:











































:wave:


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## AFAustin (Jul 12, 2007)

Thanks, Kilovolt. Great photos and helpful comments.


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## Cuso (Jul 13, 2007)

Thanks , for this review. Now wheres that B.junction website...


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## Kilovolt (Jul 14, 2007)

Three days ago:


AFAustin said:


> When you have the chance, can you compare the 2 models, as to output, beam characteristics, etc., as well as your preferences. I am trying to decide between the two. :thinking:


Yesterday:


AFAustin said:


> Order placed for 1 of each.
> 
> Thanks, Matt!


 
Congratulations AFAustin, you are the last of true flashaholics.......:twothumbs......and an example to all of us !!! :naughty:


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## NA8 (Jul 14, 2007)

Does the tail switch always go from Low to High before OFF or will it switch OFF without going through High after a few seconds on Low ? 

I know you can always use the twist off trick to bypass High.


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## Kilovolt (Jul 14, 2007)

The switch sequence is always off - low - high - off. The switch is purely mechanical. 
You can also use the head trick to bypass low and have high immediately.


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## AFAustin (Jul 14, 2007)

Ah, yes, Kilovolt, the flesh is weak......and your excellent comments and beautiful photos didn't help any! :devil:

Seriously, thanks for your great work on the LM301/303, and I'm looking forward to trying out and comparing/contrasting these little guys.


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## jml90 (Jul 16, 2007)

If they had a 2 CR123 I'd be all over it.


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## TOOCOOL (Jul 16, 2007)

Kilovolt said:


> Your understanding is correct but as I said you can also leave the clickie on high and use the head as a switch.
> 
> BTW only the GITD rubber boot enables the light to tailstand...:thinking:...funny but it's even written in the instructions.


is that for both lights?

will the AA light take 14500 ?


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## AFAustin (Jul 16, 2007)

TOOCOOL said:


> will the AA light take 14500 ?




See post #3 here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=167154


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## BMRSEB (Jul 16, 2007)

AFAustin said:


> See post #3 here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=167154


That thread is just recipes for migas!!


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## AFAustin (Jul 16, 2007)

BMRSEB said:


> That thread is just recipes for migas!!



It did take a bit of a culinary turn....but....tasty lights, tasty migas....it's all good! :thumbsup:


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## Kilovolt (Jul 17, 2007)

TOOCOOL said:


> is that for both lights?


 
Yes both work in the same way.


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## Dobbler (Jul 19, 2007)

Received my 301 and 303 today. Lightening fast shipping from Battery Junction as usual :twothumbs

A few comments/observations:
The 303 is significantly brighter than the 301 on low, just about the same on high (303 on 1.2v NiMH, 303 on 3.7v RCR123A)
The textured reflector isn't quite as good as the one in the M3
M3 has a more pleasant beam shape, but the 301/303 is more useful at 1m to 2m range
The 301 battery tube is VERY snug. I could not get an AW protected 14500 in there, nor a La Crosse NiMH, and a Lenmar NiMH was difficult to squeeze in.
No problems with an AW protected 3.7v RCR123a in the 303 however
The internals of the tail cap are, shall we say, of lower quality construction/assembly compared to the M3. Getting the tail cap switch out was not easy on the 301
The GID tail caps are shorter than the black and orange. Good: can stand on tail cap w/GID. Bad: the GID is slightly harder to push because it is slightly recessed
Anodizing is VERY attractive -- these are slick looking lights
Holster is one-size fits all -- the 301 is too long for the holster
Holster is nice and snug, and would have no worries of the light coming out unintended
The printing on the holster is pretty ugly -- I would prefer one without the advertising or with a sewn in tag (a la Fenix) that I could cut off if I so desired
Lanyard is of good quality and comes pre-installed
Would prefer some knurling on the battery tube or head for better grip
All in all I think these are great lights for the price. Compared to my M3, they are both lighter and shorter for the given battery type/tube size. The M3 definitely feels more solid, and the construction is more refined. The M3 has thicker tubing which is a trade-off for weight.

IMO, the 301 is the better choice between the two. For the slightly longer form factor you get a lot more runtime and a more common battery choice (AA). This light REALLY shines on NiMH and Alkaline. I have not tried Lithium primaries yet. Lumapower clearly designed the 301 to be an EDC tool with a very low output low for super runtimes (perfect beam and output for reading) and a very bright (up there with my M3 on CR123A) high when you need it.

Bottom line: For the price, you can't go wrong with either one!


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## LA OZ (Jul 19, 2007)

Dobbler, great info there. I appreciate this sort of hands on review. Thank you.


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## flash99dark (Jul 19, 2007)

Hi Dobbler..nice review...Do you know if the LM301 will take either a Powerex 2700 or an Eneloop AA battery?....Thanks ahead for any and all info..William

Opps! Kilovolt excellent photos and review..You are right about the battery fit/no fit. I was so fixed on the "Will my batteries fit the LM301 ..I forgot to credit your fine work


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## Kilovolt (Jul 19, 2007)

Dobbler, what you say about some batteries not fitting inside LM301 is very interesting and will make more than a few fellow CPFers really upset.

I tried in mine only Uniross Hybrio's and they fit perfectly well. Because it is what I use normally I did not pursue the matter furtherly. Now I can say that the usual Energizer's 2500 mAh NiMH are a difficult fit, most of them get in but not all. I foresee long heated discussions on this fact.....


Finally I do agree with you... M3 is another thing but still you have summed up beautifully the two newcomers:

"Bottom line: For the price, you can't go wrong with either one! "


:goodjob:


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## Dobbler (Jul 19, 2007)

Apparently not all NiMH are made to the same specs... I bought th 301 for my wife so she would have a simple, looong lasting, common battery light. I bought the 303 for myself. However, the very low output on the 301 which equates to a very long runtime has me wanting a 301 for myself now! I have 9 or 10 Fenix lights (all Cree models) and I am starting to appreciate the simpler interfaces and the ability to have a very long runtime low mode that most of the new Fenix's lack. The P3D would be the exception.


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## LGCubana (Jul 19, 2007)

Dobbler:

Have you tried a CR123A primary in the 303 ?

It might be that the higher voltage of the RCR123A is causing the Low to be too high.


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## Kilovolt (Jul 19, 2007)

I got my LM303 with a primary CR123 already installed and after an initial direct confrontation I can confirm that also in this case its low level is stronger than the LM301's one.


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## Dobbler (Jul 19, 2007)

LGCubana said:


> Dobbler:
> 
> Have you tried a CR123A primary in the 303 ?
> 
> It might be that the higher voltage of the RCR123A is causing the Low to be too high.



Yes, I have. The 3.7V RCR123A does make both levels brighter. However, even on a 3.0v primary the low level is still much brighter (maybe 2x perceived?) than the low level on the 301.


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## 7Freeman (Jul 19, 2007)

jsr said:


> Thanks for the pics Kilovolt! Really nice to see the LP LMs right next to their Fenix counterparts. As mentioned above, comparisons to the Fenix P2D and L1D would be great, along with runtime tests, if you could. The finish on the LMs look great...wish it was HA. Thanks again!


You say it dude!

Runtime, and if possible LUX readings!


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## jsr (Jul 19, 2007)

Dobbler said:


> Yes, I have. The 3.7V RCR123A does make both levels brighter. However, even on a 3.0v primary the low level is still much brighter (maybe 2x perceived?) than the low level on the 301.


 
Lumapower probably used the same resistance value in the tailcap of both 301 and 303 models resulting in the 303 being brighter. You can probably take apart the tailcap and change out the resistor for a lower low.

Runtimes anyone?


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## light_emitting_dude (Jul 20, 2007)

Should be getting my LM301 today! 

*Edit* Got it and like it. Now that is a low low! Finally and low setting that dosen't blind you in total darkness! Nice job on the low setting Lumapower!


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## NA8 (Jul 21, 2007)

I've read through the .pdf info, but I can't seem to find the specs on the LOW output in lumens. 

Anyone have the specs on the LOW outputs for comparison ?

PS +1 ugly silkscreen on those holsters


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## light_emitting_dude (Jul 21, 2007)

NA8 said:


> I've read through the .pdf info, but I can't seem to find the specs on the LOW output in lumens.
> 
> Anyone have the specs on the LOW outputs for comparison ?
> 
> PS +1 ugly silkscreen on those holsters



I compard the low output of the LM301 to my Fenix LOP SE on low and it is about the same. Specs are 4.5 lumens for LOP SE on low. 

So I would guess about 4-5 lumens? 

Impressing runtime for the LM301 is 1600 minutes with a 2600mah NIMH! Thats about 26.5 hours! Nice. :twothumbs


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## Cuso (Jul 24, 2007)

I got my 303 a couple days ago ( Thanks a lot BatteryJunction!!) and im very impresed with the quality. It just feels a lot better on the hand than my previous P2D . The switching is superb and feels strong( unlike the P2D rubber switch that feels a bit soft and attracts all sorts of dust), simple high and low ( leaving the leveling to my FFIII) , and its very bright. I HATE the printing on the holster, it looks a like a billboard ad ( take note Lumapower) good thing I had some spare no-name nylon holster that fit the thing quite nice. Youcant beat this thing for the price!! There my 2cents


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## musicalfruit (Jul 24, 2007)

AFAustin said:


> See post #3 here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=167154



How much brighter is the LM301 on 14500 than on NiMH? That link states 120 lumens for the LM303 on Li-Ions so is that the same for the LM301?

Thanks.


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## light_emitting_dude (Jul 24, 2007)

musicalfruit said:


> How much brighter is the LM301 on 14500 than on NiMH? That link states 120 lumens for the LM303 on Li-Ions so is that the same for the LM301?
> 
> Thanks.



Hardly any difference with a 14500. Using eneloops in mine and it is pleanty bright on high.


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## supes (Jul 24, 2007)

Which one is brighter, the Fenix P2D or LM303?

I understand the LM is more for floody throw then the Fenix, but would like to know, or perhaps a beamshot comparison if any can? 

Makes me wonder if I need to replace my P2D? Thanks


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## ringzero (Jul 25, 2007)

Kilovolt said:


> Overall a pair of good and reasonably priced EDC lights for those who do not like five levels and strobes.




Thanks for the review and pics, Kilovolt. Good job!

These are the type of lights that I had high hopes Fenix would build. Instead, Fenix Cree lights have too many levels and functions, horrible User Interfaces, and low levels that aren't low enough.

I really appreciate the serious User Interface and the lockout feature of these lights. I like that they have a decent low level and that they start off in low level by default.

These lights seem to represent solid value at very reasonable prices.

These lights look to be serious illumination tools, not overly complicated toys made to appeal to flashlight hobbyists.

.


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## NA8 (Jul 25, 2007)

jsr said:


> Lumapower probably used the same resistance value in the tailcap of both 301 and 303 models resulting in the 303 being brighter. You can probably take apart the tailcap and change out the resistor for a lower low.



Anyone been into the 303 tailswitch ? Does this look possible ?


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## musicalfruit (Jul 25, 2007)

light_emitting_dude said:


> Hardly any difference with a 14500. Using eneloops in mine and it is pleanty bright on high.



Just a little brighter perhaps then? I guess the jump from 80 to 120 lumens isn't very apparent to the naked eye?

Was curious since the Fenix L1D was reviewed at ~120 lumens on a 14500 versus ~70 lumens on a NiMH.

Thanks.


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## light_emitting_dude (Jul 25, 2007)

musicalfruit said:


> Just a little brighter perhaps then? I guess the jump from 80 to 120 lumens isn't very apparent to the naked eye?
> 
> Was curious since the Fenix L1D was reviewed at ~120 lumens on a 14500 versus ~70 lumens on a NiMH.
> 
> Thanks.



Here is a comparison. Where did you get the 120 lumen info from? I was referring to the LM301 not the LM303. Looks just a tad brighter with the 14500. 


LM301 with a eneloop on high






LM301 with a 14500 on high


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## musicalfruit (Jul 25, 2007)

light_emitting_dude said:


> Here is a comparison. Where did you get the 120 lumen info from? I was referring to the LM301 not the LM303. Looks just a tad brighter with the 14500.



Hi,

Thanks for the screenshots!

I just grabbed the 120 lumen figure from that link in which the LM303 was quoted as 120 lumens on 3.7V Li-Ion so I figured that the LM301 should be pretty close to that considering that the L1D went from 70 to 120 lumens (estimated) on Li-Ion.


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## Kilovolt (Jul 26, 2007)

NA8 said:


> Anyone been into the 303 tailswitch ? Does this look possible ?


 
I opened the tailcap to change the rubber boot and had a look at the switch. No resistor in view and I doubt very much there is room for any modification.:shrug:


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## RebelXTNC (Jul 26, 2007)

I received my LM-301 yesterday in another fast shipment from Battery Junction! This is a very nice light that operates smoothly, looks and feels nice, has a great beam and two good levels of light. I've just been operating it on an alkaline AA and the levels are exactly what I need.
The switch has a great action and the threads, machine work and anodizing are smooth and look top notch.
I would have ordered an LM-303 too, but since I already have an M3 that I run primarily with the CR123 tube, I held off. I have no doubt I'll order one now though, they're pretty much irresistible.
Some areas that could be improved: Add a choice of a darker finish like the D-Mini has. Make the orange and black rubber switch covers shorter like the GITD cover is, to allow tail-standing with all 3 colors.
Change or eliminate the holster printing. If they have to have something, maybe dark red or green instead of white lettering.
This makes 5 out of 5 totally satisfying LumaPower lights I have purchased.


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## mx125 (Jul 28, 2007)

As a new guy, who just bought an M1 and really like it, and a Fenix P2D-CE, i noticed in other references that the the Fenix regulation graphs are perfectly flat on all levels, while the M1 regulates only on 2 primaries and only on high. 

I think that might simply be due to a buck vs. boost methodology . . but anyway . . . 

Does anyone know if these new 301/303's regulate perfectly on all levels? Perhaps runtime graphs haven't been done yet. 

Perhaps it's not a valid point, but when i see the clean flat graphs it just makes me think the logic in the light is more advanced or refined.


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## paulr (Jul 30, 2007)

Flat runtime graphs don't indicate much of anything as regards design quality. They don't show anything about the converter efficiency. They're popular with some users and I guess there's advantages of a very consistent beam, but there's also disadvantages. If the battery can provide enough juice to get full output way out near the tail end of the graph, then it should be able to provide even more juice when it's fresh, so why didn't they make it brighter at the beginning? It's like they left untapped lumens in the light. And conversely, towards the end, they have to draw increasing amounts of current from the battery (to make up for the declining voltage) at the very moment when the battery's internal resistance is increasing because the cell is almost used up. So there's a significant efficiency loss, and they'd get more efficiency (total lumens x runtime) if they tapered off the brightness at that end. So the flat discharge curve is incurring costs at both ends. There's been lengthy discussions on this issue in the old Arc AAA threads and suffice it to say, the Arc AAA is semi-regulated with a sloping discharge curve on purpose, because that shape of graph better served the designer's intention, of making a light that got the absolute most out of a cheap throwaway AAA cell.

With nimh rechargeable batteries though, the voltage is pretty flat through the whole curve anyway, so you'll get fairly flat output even without much regulation from the electronics.


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## mx125 (Jul 30, 2007)

paulr said:


> Flat runtime graphs don't indicate much of anything as regards design quality. They don't show anything about the converter efficiency. They're popular with some users and I guess there's advantages of a very consistent beam, but there's also disadvantages. If the battery can provide enough juice to get full output way out near the tail end of the graph, then it should be able to provide even more juice when it's fresh, so why didn't they make it brighter at the beginning? It's like they left untapped lumens in the light. And conversely, towards the end, they have to draw increasing amounts of current from the battery (to make up for the declining voltage) at the very moment when the battery's internal resistance is increasing because the cell is almost used up. So there's a significant efficiency loss, and they'd get more efficiency (total lumens x runtime) if they tapered off the brightness at that end. So the flat discharge curve is incurring costs at both ends. There's been lengthy discussions on this issue in the old Arc AAA threads and suffice it to say, the Arc AAA is semi-regulated with a sloping discharge curve on purpose, because that shape of graph better served the designer's intention, of making a light that got the absolute most out of a cheap throwaway AAA cell.
> 
> With nimh rechargeable batteries though, the voltage is pretty flat through the whole curve anyway, so you'll get fairly flat output even without much regulation from the electronics.


 
I see what you mean about having to hold back output on fresh cells . .and the inefficiency at the other end . .to derive the flat curve. It didn't occur to me that it could be intentional. I suppose a sloping curve does have it's benefits. Thanks for the helpful reply, paulr.


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## nanotech17 (Jul 30, 2007)

light_emitting_dude said:


> Hardly any difference with a 14500. Using eneloops in mine and it is pleanty bright on high.



My old version LM301 modded with SSC USYNH also behave the same as yours,hardly any difference between niMh & 14500 cell.


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## light_emitting_dude (Jul 30, 2007)

nanotech17 said:


> My old version LM301 modded with SSC USYNH also behave the same as yours,hardly any difference between niMh & 14500 cell.



Very similar to my Lumapower formula F1 SSC. Very little increase with a 14500. They probably have similar or identical cicuits.


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## LG&M (Jul 30, 2007)

Maybe I missed it but how close do the advertised brightness & run time seam to be? I am thinking of getting the LM301.


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## NA8 (Jul 31, 2007)

paulr said:


> Flat runtime graphs don't indicate much of anything as regards design quality.



Yeah, but LONG flat runtimes at stout lumens are impressive. 

Do you have any links to those Arc threads you mentioned ? I'd like to read more about this issue.


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## darkninja67 (Aug 1, 2007)

I got my LM301 today (my first LED light) and I love it so far. Nice low beam, pretty bright high and overall excellent build quality for the price. I hope my M1 Tactical is as good as this light.


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## Sonus (Aug 2, 2007)

I just received my LM301 and I like it for many of the reasons stated by everyone - a low beam that is actually low enough to be useful and the nice flood of light especially on high. The solid feel of the switch and a very simple UI (way better than the finicky UI of my Fenix L2D-CE).
The quality of the threads are not as good as the Fenix lights but the feel is not too bad after applying some Super Lube. But what I call the switch retainer (the piece that screws in on top of the switch that has the two holes ) is made out of plastic! PLASTIC! How cheesey is that! It is the only thing preventing me from buying anymore. Come on LumaPower, charge me another buck and make it out of metal.


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## Sonus (Aug 2, 2007)

I forgot to mention in the above post that I was able to scrape off the awful white print on the holster with my thumbnail. Looks way better now.


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## lumapower (Aug 2, 2007)

Hi Sonus,

Thanks for supporting to our products.

We do it plastic because which prevents shorting the tail-spring to conduct-thread.
The mechanical properties of the retainer ring offers good elasicity which means non-brittle material.

Thanks and best rgds.

Ricky - Lumapower Team


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## roberttheiii (Aug 3, 2007)

Overall, I love my LM303. One minor concern and a question though. A feature I really like having is the lockout, nothing is worse then really needing a light to find its been on in your bag/glovebox/etc. and is dead, and who can find spares in the dark? Anyways, sometimes, even after I've twisted the bezel down (finger tight) it will turn on then just turn off. I think it is because of the simple metal on metal seating inside and I'm not sure any amount of tightening or not tightening quiet as much can remove this bad contact. Am I right about this, its simply something I have to live with, or do I have a somewhat faulty model? As I said, great light, superb craft, great fit, super bright and WHITE, however, just now I hit the switch, it turned on low, perfect, hit it again, no high, I had to play w/the bezel. O right, and finally, my question, what tool do you recommend for changing out the plastic tail switch retainer? I used a set of spring pliers that worked alright, but is there something better I'm not thinking of? Thanks!

Robert


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## AFAustin (Aug 3, 2007)

roberttheiii said:


> Overall, I love my LM303. One minor concern and a question though. A feature I really like having is the lockout, nothing is worse then really needing a light to find its been on in your bag/glovebox/etc. and is dead, and who can find spares in the dark? Anyways, sometimes, even after I've twisted the bezel down (finger tight) it will turn on then just turn off. I think it is because of the simple metal on metal seating inside and I'm not sure any amount of tightening or not tightening quiet as much can remove this bad contact. Am I right about this, its simply something I have to live with, or do I have a somewhat faulty model? As I said, great light, superb craft, great fit, super bright and WHITE, however, just now I hit the switch, it turned on low, perfect, hit it again, no high, I had to play w/the bezel. O right, and finally, my question, what tool do you recommend for changing out the plastic tail switch retainer? I used a set of spring pliers that worked alright, but is there something better I'm not thinking of? Thanks!
> 
> 
> Robert




FWIW, I don't have that problem with my LM303. You may want to consider a return.

As for changing the tailcap, be careful not to knock off one of the wire contacts soldered to the side---they are fairly delicate. (Learned that the hard way on my LM301 whem attempting to change tailcap covers and had to solder it back on.)


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## Kilovolt (Aug 3, 2007)

Roberttheiii try cleaning with alcohol and a Q-tip the top of the body and the head's inner ring i.e. the parts that make the contact. Your problem may well be caused by some dirt. I don't have it in my LM303 but on a Fenix L1D CE it drove me crazy. Only after a number of cleaning operations the light started performing OK.

To take out the switch I use a pair of needle nosed pliers but be very careful with the contacts mentioned by AFAustin.


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## roberttheiii (Aug 3, 2007)

Thanks a lot for the help! I tried operation rubbing alcohol to no avail. I suppose, if no one else is having this sort of issue, the next operation is to exchange it. I don't know why, but I always feel bad returning products (especially when I like the LED selection I'm returning), I feel like I've failed at fixing it, then again, something ten days old shouldn't need much fixing. Thanks again!


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## MattK (Aug 3, 2007)

Hi Rob - Not quite getting what the problem is. Stop over and I'll repair/replace as necessary. Also the Fauxtons with RED led's are back in stock.


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## LG&M (Aug 4, 2007)

LG&M said:


> Maybe I missed it but how close do the advertised brightness & run time seam to be? I am thinking of getting the LM301.


That guy had a good question. Does anybody know?


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## Ken 222 (Aug 5, 2007)

I have the LM303. Cool little light with a nice smooth beam. Lightly textured reflector and the SSC LED work well together. Very bright on high and good low output IMO. I have one Battery Station rcr123 that will not fit, but the others (same brand) do. Ultrafire protected and unprotected cells fit as well. I suppose it's impossible to build to a size so every cr123 and rcr123 will fit without getting complaints about battery rattle. I have taken the little 303 out of my pocket many times in the last few days just to look at it. The quality for the price is excellent and I'm going to get an LM301 one of these days.......


Ken


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## merlocka (Aug 16, 2007)

I picked up both a LM301 and LM303 from batteryjunction.

I am comparing them to the only other single cell lights I have, a REXlight x.1 and a Ultrafire C3.

The REXlight recently won the coveted "light which goes into my pocket" award, beating my trusty C3 due to the sheer output advantage. Can the LM's defeat the champ?

LM301/LM303

The fit and finish of the lights is very good. The UI has the only modes I really want (although I wish it was soft click to move between them). I agree with pretty much all the other comments above. I confirm that the LM303 works with Ultrafire rechargeables, and that the LM301 is about as bright with primaries as it is with a 14500.

The output from both lights is good... hard to compare to the REXlight & C3. Most CPF'ers have probably seen beamshots... I think the REX has more lumens with a 14500, but both the LM303 and LM301 have a much better diffused beam, as well as a warmer color. The REX and C3 have a prominent hotspot, then a consistent flood. The LM's have a nice transition which really looks great.

So, I have to add a new crown. Although the REX 14500 still wins for pocket-torch showing off (for the 45 seconds before it is too hot to hold), the LM303 wins the "which light goes in my pocket" award. 

A shame too, because it's nice to look at.

We'll see if the LM303 can maintain it's position when my L1 arrives next week.


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