# Having a blast



## TranquillityBase (Jun 3, 2007)

I received a Fenix LO-Ti yesterday, and I really like the matt/satin finish...:thumbsup:

I decided to fire-up my blast cabinet and detail one of my lights.

Here's my 'How to', and don't worry it's very simple...

I used silica sand, shot at 40psi. All I did is masked off with electrical tape...the band between the knurled bands was blasted last (I masked, and blasted the head twice) 

*Please read and understand the health warnings listed on all blast media bags/containers.*


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## Pumaman (Jun 3, 2007)

very nice!


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## EricMack (Jun 3, 2007)

That's really gorgeous, man! :twothumbs Great contrast and style! :thumbsup:


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## McGizmo (Jun 3, 2007)

Nice TB! I couldn't agree more on blasted Ti!!


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 3, 2007)

Thanks guys...

I'm getting bored with the shiny Ti stuff...my Ti stuff, that is...

I like the grey color and the soft feel it gives the Ti...It's very close in finish to the LO-Ti. A finer mesh blast media would make for a dead match...Silica is pretty coarse for this type of blasting, but it works, and it's inexpensive.


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 3, 2007)

Don, I loved the look of that Ti-PD you blast detailed...that thread photo is still rolling around in my head, somewhere...


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## arewethereyetdad (Jun 3, 2007)

duplicate post


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## arewethereyetdad (Jun 3, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> Thanks guys...
> 
> I'm getting bored with the shiny Ti stuff...my Ti stuff, that is...


Well, that makes one of us. Can't think of anybody else bored with your Ti stuff. :twothumbs


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 3, 2007)

I may have to blast a bezel ring...


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## McGizmo (Jun 3, 2007)

TB,

If I were to turn a groove to _break_ the seam between blasted and machined surface on head of the light on the right, I think it would be one of the nicest looking lights I have done:






I like the contrast of blasted and not in the Mule proto below as well:






This Ti paperweight desk set has contrasts in surface finish to break the monotony:






When I was goofing around making Ti earings, I did a number of pieces that weren't anodized. I would polish and mask and blast and engrave and get some cool results. A very light dusting of media against a high polished surface gives a wonderful mist look when contrasted against polish and full blast.


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 3, 2007)

That's some beautiful hardware Don.

One in all grey...I had to give my tactical light a stealthy finish...


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## Kiessling (Jun 3, 2007)

I am not so sure here. IMHO blasted surfaces tend to absorb dirt in a way that makes it difficult to clean and it tends to look dirty and used whereas scratches on non-treated ti just look ok.

But I have to admit that my SF Delta knife isn't that bad with its blasted handles. 

bernie


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## Pumaman (Jun 3, 2007)

WOW!

You must hook me up with something TB.

A bead blasted Ti PD-S is now my dream light, but that would really be stretching my budget.

but without dream lights where would we be?


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 3, 2007)

It's a tool Bernie, it can't stay pretty forever...patina good, life on the shelf bad...

A toothbrush, citrus cleaner (I use Zep brand), and some water...best darn Ti cleaner bar none.


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## jch79 (Jun 3, 2007)

Awesome job Scott!!! :thumbsup: I dig the bead blasted look. And you gotta love Zep products.

Hey - I think I've finally convinced her to let me come up there!!  :duck: Maybe one of the next two weekends? 

john


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 3, 2007)

jch79 said:


> Awesome job Scott!!! :thumbsup: I dig the bead blasted look. And you gotta love Zep products.
> 
> Hey - I think I've finally convinced her to let me come up there!!  :duck: Maybe one of the next two weekends?
> 
> john


Get yer butt up here...we can make some of those stinkin' 27XR/S heads, and whatever else you want. You can blast all of your lights...


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## skalomax (Jun 3, 2007)

Glad I was of some assistance


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## jch79 (Jun 4, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> Get yer butt up here...we can make some of those stinkin' 27XR/S heads, and whatever else you want. You can blast all of your lights...



:rock:


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## McGizmo (Jun 4, 2007)

Kiessling said:


> I am not so sure here. IMHO blasted surfaces tend to absorb dirt in a way that makes it difficult to clean and it tends to look dirty and used whereas scratches on non-treated ti just look ok.
> 
> But I have to admit that my SF Delta knife isn't that bad with its blasted handles.
> 
> bernie


 
Bernie,
Titanium is akin to teflon when it comes to trying to get anything to actually _stick_ to it. Even though the blasted surfaces give you some mechanical tooth and nooks for foreign substances to seem to adhere to, with little effort and perhaps some dish washing soap, it comes clean easily.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 4, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> That's some beautiful hardware Don.
> 
> One in all grey...I had to give my tactical light a stealthy finish...



Very interesting Scott. It almost appears to look like Hard Coat. I like it.


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## tdurand (Jun 4, 2007)

OK. Try this. Bead blast everything save the top surface of the knurling and your croc pattern. Yeah, shiny bumps! :nana:

T


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## dmdrewitt (Jun 5, 2007)

Very nice Scott :thumbsup:


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## Data (Jun 5, 2007)

:twothumbs


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 5, 2007)

The photos make the blasted areas look rough, but they're not...The blasted surfaces have a very silky feel. My non-flashaholic friends at work, really like the all grey light, shown in post #11...

Even using media as rough as silica sand doesn't degrade detail.

Data...All Ti 007 in grey matte finish please!!!


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## kenster (Jun 5, 2007)

So, is this a new TB service for Ti?


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## karlthev (Jun 5, 2007)

Wow TQ!! Wow!! See TQ and get blasted!


Karl


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 5, 2007)

Anybody can do this...I have a Speed Blaster (self contained/inexpensive), and a cardboard blast cabinet with a very good vacuum system...Silica blasting requires HEPA protection/filtration though.







If you want something detailed Ken, send err up...I'll do it for ya...



kenster said:


> So, is this a new TB service for Ti?


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## kenster (Jun 5, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> Anybody can do this...I have a Speed Blaster (self contained/inexpensive), and a cardboard blast cabinet with a very good vacuum system...Silica blasting requires HEPA protection/filtration though.
> 
> If you want something detailed Ken, send err up...I'll do it for ya...


 
Well, thank you TB!  First, I will do a search on the equipment you mentioned. It is not the cost but the space available to put more tools. I already can`t get my car in the garage so buying anything new is going in the wrong direction from what I want right now. :green: This South Texas summer heat is a killer for sliding into a dark colored car parked out in the afternoon sun. :sweat: Need to find myself a monster size garage with a little nothing house out back. :twothumbs Probably wouldn`t ever go in the little house though.


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 5, 2007)

My little Speed Blaster works very well, but the little blue hopper empties fairly quickly, so it's only good for tiny jobs.


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## kenster (Jun 5, 2007)

I see you added a picture of the Speed Blaster and that is a small hopper but small is good with my space problem. Makes for a smaller overall setup to use it and store away. I would be using it on small flashlight parts as you have shown in this thread so the small capacity shouldn`t be a poblem to worry about refilling. Looking good so far to me! :naughty:

Thanks for the pics & helpful info! :thumbsup:

Ken


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 5, 2007)

kenster said:


> I see you added a picture of the Speed Blaster and that is a small hopper but small is good with my space problem. Makes for a smaller overall setup to use it and store away. I would be using it on small flashlight parts as you have shown in this thread so the small capacity shouldn`t be a poblem to worry about refilling. Looking good so far to me! :naughty:
> 
> Thanks for the pics & helpful info! :thumbsup:
> 
> Ken


No prob-lem-oh dude, you're welcome...I think I bought my blaster 10~15 years ago, it looks exactly the same as the one shown in the photo.

I filled the hopper two times per light...

Electrical tape is very good for masking, and is adequate even at 100psi, as long as the blast media flow is perpendicular to the masking. I blasted both of the lights, pictured on this thread, fully assembled (I'm lazy) and no problems.

If you can wait for silcone/rubber cement/or whatever else might work, to dry...splash designs would be a snap. Ahhhh...the possibilities...


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## EricMack (Jun 5, 2007)

How about a Ti PD-S, Scott?  You want to blast one of mine and make it all cool and TB Sweet?! :duck:


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 5, 2007)

EricMack said:


> How about a Ti PD-S, Scott?  You want to blast one of mine and make it all cool and TB Sweet?! :duck:


For you Mr. Mom...absolutely...

Not the clip, clip screws, or the end of the piston.


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## kenster (Jun 5, 2007)

Oh man, this thread just keeps getting better! There will be pics of the Ti PD-S involved I hope?


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 5, 2007)

kenster said:


> Oh man, this thread just keeps getting better! There will be pics of the Ti PD-S involved I hope?


Like I'm not going to add pics...:toilet:


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## EricMack (Jun 5, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> For you Mr. Mom...absolutely...
> 
> Not the clip, clip screws, or the end of the piston.


 
:bow::thumbsup: I'll even forget about that Mr. Mom quip...


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## jch79 (Jun 6, 2007)

EricMack said:


> I'll even forget about that Mr. Mom quip...



You might forget about it... but others might not. :devil: :wave:


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## will (Jun 6, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> Anybody can do this...I have a Speed Blaster (self contained/inexpensive), and a cardboard blast cabinet with a very good vacuum system...Silica blasting requires HEPA protection/filtration though.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




What does the cardboard cabinet look like - I have seen ones at Eastwood auto - glass front, rubber gloves built in, made of metal, with the gun built in. These units are $300 and higher.


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## kenster (Jun 6, 2007)

Will, while searching for the Speed Blaster I found some small benchtop blasting cabinets for as low as $140. Northern also carries the Speed Blaster.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_109+210533


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## will (Jun 6, 2007)

kenster said:


> Will, while searching for the Speed Blaster I found some small benchtop blasting cabinets for as low as $140.
> 
> http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_109+210533



I have a sandblaster that was used for cars - it has a 100 pound tank for media. Using it makes a huge mess. I had some small items I wanted to blast. I was going to make a cabinet - plywood with a piece of plate glass and some rubber gloves. nothing fancy, just something to contain the blast media. I work on cars sometimes. some items are best cleaned by blasting prior to paint ( cast parts and the like ) The idea of carboard appeals - quick and easy


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 6, 2007)

will said:


> What does the cardboard cabinet look like - I have seen ones at Eastwood auto - glass front, rubber gloves built in, made of metal, with the gun built in. These units are $300 and higher.


 
Shop's a bit messy


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## will (Jun 6, 2007)

refridgerator box ? how does the inside hold up. ?


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## kenster (Jun 7, 2007)

will said:


> refridgerator box ? how does the inside hold up. ?


 
Will, Scott sent me an Email with pics showing some of the inside and I couldn`t see anything that looked like damage to the back wall. The bottom of the box was mostly covered in silica sand but the small area of cardboard that was exposed looked fine. He did state he was only using 40 PSI for the blasting. 

TB even put a light near the top of the back wall! It looks like a nice blast cabinet for cardboard!


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## will (Jun 7, 2007)

Most of the blast is going to be absorbed by the object being blasted. Actually the cardboard box is a good idea. If you do a lot - you could put a piece of sheet aluminum in the back.


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## Data (Jun 8, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> Shop's a bit messy



Me likey! 



:tinfoilave


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 8, 2007)

will said:


> refridgerator box ? how does the inside hold up. ?


Computer printer box...very thick cardboard. I've been using for a few years, and the inside is still in excellent condition...I just make sure to blast towards the floor. I have heavy plastic for laminating the rear wall, but the cabinet has held up so nicely I never bothered hanging it.

I only use the cabinet for detailing clean parts.


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## wquiles (Jun 10, 2007)

Very impressive TB 

Will


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 11, 2007)

wquiles said:


> Very impressive TB
> 
> Will


Thanks Will...


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## cmacclel (Jun 12, 2007)

Here's mine $99

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45411

Mac


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 12, 2007)

cmacclel said:


> Here's mine $99
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45411
> 
> Mac


That's a nice little cabinet Mac.


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## tino_ale (Jun 13, 2007)

I really LOVE the results you get. "Possibilities are infinite" does quite say it :twothumbs

Could you please give more details about what is the purpose of the cabinet? Is it mandatory? What equipment do you use for compressed air? What are the dangers you need to be aware of with blasting media?

Sorry for the noob questions but this blast thing is just WOW


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## TranquillityBase (Jun 13, 2007)

tino_ale said:


> I really LOVE the results you get. "Possibilities are infinite" does quite say it :twothumbs
> 
> Could you please give more details about what is the purpose of the cabinet? Is it mandatory? What equipment do you use for compressed air? What are the dangers you need to be aware of with blasting media?
> 
> Sorry for the noob questions but this blast thing is just WOW


The vacuum cabinet helps evacuate the cloud of blast media, and will isolate the operator from the dangers associated with airborn blast media. (Filtration of the vacuum system is the weak link...If the filtration isn't adequate, all the dangerous particulate will fill the room, the blast cabinet is located in.)

Small compressors will work, but usable blast duration, at proper air volume/CFM, and presure, will be greatly reduced.


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## bombelman (Jun 16, 2007)




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## EricMack (Jun 16, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> That's some beautiful hardware Don.
> 
> One in all grey...I had to give my tactical light a stealthy finish...


 
How do you get that dark grey finish, TB? Its such a good look!! :thumbsup:


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## will (Jun 16, 2007)

TranquillityBase said:


> The vacuum cabinet helps evacuate the cloud of blast media, and will isolate the operator from the dangers associated with airborn blast media. (Filtration of the vacuum system is the weak link...If the filtration isn't adequate, all the dangerous particulate will fill the room, the blast cabinet is located in.)



I have a sears shop vac - I picked up a gore-tex filter a few years back,that does a beter job than the regular filter. I also picked up another 2 1/4 hose. I attach that to the output of the vac and have it vented outside. That quiets the whole thing down and blows whatever dust is left after the filter outside.


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## wquiles (Aug 26, 2010)

Bumping this old thread with some recent finds on DIY blast cabinets:

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-homemade-sandblast-cabinet-19854/


http://www.layitlow.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=529430


This one has good description but NO photos !!!:
http://www.pabblaster.com/Build%20a%20booth.htm


This one has a built-in "grill" to keep media on the bottom:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-ShotGrit-Blasting-Cabinet/


Will


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## precisionworks (Aug 27, 2010)

> This one has a built-in "grill" to keep media on the bottom:


I sometimes use a commercial blast cabinet that has similar construction. Under the grill (or grate) the cabinet is formed into a funnel so that all the used media goes that way ... then it's transported by a strong vacuum with filter that keeps fine glass particles out of the air. 

Fine particulates of many types may be hazardous to your lungs, and blasting media especially so. If your cabinet doesn't have dust collection, at least wear a NIOSH approved face mask, either a Series R or a Series P (99% efficient or 99.97% efficient). 

The 99.97% masks are available for under $10: http://www.csnstores.com/asp/superbrowse.asp?clid=3226&caid=&sku=OKT1165&refid=FR49-OKT1165. 

In contrast, a 99% efficient mask usually costs under $5: http://www.csnstores.com/asp/superbrowse.asp?clid=3226&caid=&sku=OKT1161&refid=FR49-OKT1161

FWIW, some cardiovascular docs equate blasting media exposure to heavy cigarette smoking


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## wquiles (Aug 27, 2010)

precisionworks said:


> I sometimes use a commercial blast cabinet that has similar construction. Under the grill (or grate) the cabinet is formed into a funnel so that all the used media goes that way ... then it's transported by a strong vacuum with filter that keeps fine glass particles out of the air.
> 
> Fine particulates of many types may be hazardous to your lungs, and blasting media especially so. If your cabinet doesn't have dust collection, at least wear a NIOSH approved face mask, either a Series R or a Series P (99% efficient or 99.97% efficient).
> 
> ...


Some articles I read recommended using some soft of breathing mask even if you had a dust collection system 

Are those single use and dispose, or is it based on actual usage (duration and amount of contaminants) - so that you use a couple of times and then discard?

Will


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## gt40 (Aug 27, 2010)

Just wear a p95 spec mask. They are reusable but you want to keep it in a zip log bag to preserve the filters which have activated charcoal.


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## wquiles (Aug 28, 2010)

Here is more information on the dangers while sandblasting - bottom line a good particle respirator is "necessary":
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/92-102.html

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2004-108/


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## wquiles (Aug 28, 2010)

I don't want to use the silica/sand based due to the health problems, but there are so many other materials available it makes it hard to pick what to use. I have seen folks "glass beading" metal, and also using Aluminum Oxide (same as sandpaper, right)? Or even "walnut shells"? When do you use one blasting media over the other?


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## saltytri (Aug 29, 2010)

Will:

I am far from an expert on this and I just know what I've learned by doing. I use beads on surfaces for which blasting is the final finish. On a micro level, they polish and the resulting surface doesn't hold paint or other chemical finishes very well. Aluminum oxide is used to prep for application of a coating of some sort because it abrades, leaving a keyed surface.

Glass beads come in grades from almost powdery to "crushed glass." Use trial and error to get a look that you like, bearing in mind that the outcome will vary depending on the hardness of the stock. Al oxide also comes in various meshes, with the choice depending on the hardness of the stock and the intended finish, i.e., matte or gloss, thick or thin film. Fortunately, blasting media are not expensive, especially in the small amounts that I use, so a few grades can be kept on hand.

Hope this helps.

David


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## TranquillityBase (Aug 29, 2010)

wquiles said:


> I don't want to use the silica/sand based due to the health problems, but there are so many other materials available it makes it hard to pick what to use. I have seen folks "glass beading" metal, and also using Aluminum Oxide (same as sandpaper, right)? Or even "walnut shells"? When do you use one blasting media over the other?



Don't kid yourself, none of them are good for your lungs...Yes, silica is up there near the top of the not-good-for-you scale. However, if proper make-up/intake air is fed to the booth, and the vacuum system is properly filtered (or the exhaust is terminated in a safe zone, it'll be fine using media such as silica sand).

If you seek a deep military grey finish, with some grip purchase, *silica* is a good choice. If you would like a surface with a medium to heavy texture, *aluminum oxide* is a great choice. *Glass beads* media will produce a satin silvery finish.


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## Mick (Aug 29, 2010)

I worked for Guyson doing the electrical controls of blasting machines for a couple years. I'm not an expert on the media but have seen them all. For clean surface treatment you can't beat stainless steel shot. You can re-cycle it and it last forever. Also the only dust created is from the part being blasted. The peening action of the SS beads improves the corrosion resistance and strength of many parts. Jet engine turbine blades are shot peened. I also worked for a company making equipment for the dairy industry and we SS bead blasted titanium parts to pass FDA 3A specs. This is about places for bacteria to hide, porosity and surface finish.


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## gt40 (Aug 29, 2010)

After reading this thread, I am almost done with my new blast cabinet. I looked at the hf ones but decided to make my own. I got a set of gloves from them and found what I think is the ideal container to use as the basis for building a cabinet. gamma vittle vault. 


Basically an absolutely air tight container for bulk food like dog food. the lid is completely sealed with an oring and easy turn and large size for access. I cut holes in a board for the gloves and one on the side for a nice big air filter and a lexan sheet for window, all sealed with silicon. the thing is that with the design sealing as good as it is, Nothing is leaking so far. I will post some pics up. Here is the container:

http://www.gamma2.net/new/vittles_vault.html

I got the 80 gallon which is perfect size imo. enough room for gloves, blaster and big filter for the shop vac.

Here are some pics. It is basically done except for putting in the window, hose hole for blaster and a raised metal grate base:

Outside:






Inside shot with filter and gloves:





sealing lid design:





Sealed up:





Filter where the shop vac will go. I have a giant filter inside that is sealed to the side of the body and the shop vac will suck through that:





Waiting for silicon to cure and will add the window tomorrow hopefully...


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## wquiles (Aug 30, 2010)

TranquillityBase said:


> Don't kid yourself, none of them are good for your lungs...Yes, silica is up there near the top of the not-good-for-you scale. However, if proper make-up/intake air is fed to the booth, and the vacuum system is properly filtered (or the exhaust is terminated in a safe zone, it'll be fine using media such as silica sand).
> 
> If you seek a deep military grey finish, with some grip purchase, *silica* is a good choice. If you would like a surface with a medium to heavy texture, *aluminum oxide* is a great choice. *Glass beads* media will produce a satin silvery finish.



Understood - I will be taking all safety precautions anyway, regardless of media 

Of course I imagine I will use it for many things once I have it, but one of my main uses will be preparing a surface to be powder coated, so I probably need the Al Oxide to give the PC a good "grip" on the Aluminum parts.

I already ordered the P95 particle respirator masks, and today I ordered this metal tabletop blaster ($163 shipped) since I did not like all that much the ones I saw at Horror Freight, and this one already comes with the interior light kit. I will connect the blasting box to my HD shop vac, which will vent outside via secondary output hose:
http://www.csnstores.com/asp/show_detail.asp?sku=MAX1061&refid=FR49-MAX1061


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## jabe1 (Aug 30, 2010)

gt40 said:


> After reading this thread, I am almost done with my new blast cabinet. I looked at the hf ones but decided to make my own. I got a set of gloves from them and found what I think is the ideal container to use as the basis for building a cabinet. gamma vittle vault.
> 
> 
> Basically an absolutely air tight container for bulk food like dog food. the lid is completely sealed with an oring and easy turn and large size for access. I cut holes in a board for the gloves and one on the side for a nice big air filter and a lexan sheet for window, all sealed with silicon. the thing is that with the design sealing as good as it is, Nothing is leaking so far. I will post some pics up. Here is the container:
> ...




You'll need a vent for make-up air... awesome job.


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## 350xfire (Aug 30, 2010)

wquiles said:


> Horror Freight


 
Easy now, lets be nice! lol

I do have one question on the original light picture... How do you get that fine knurled finish? Is that one of those "cutting" knurlers for $1000?

That looks NICE!!!


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## tino_ale (Aug 31, 2010)

I use a cheap metal cabinet and the filter get's clogged very fast. It doesn't filter much anyway. When clogged, the air cannot escape fast enough and finds other ways... and it leaks everywhere.

Also I suspect even a shop vac will not sufice when you are blasting. What is the CFM of the vac ? If you really want to be sure you would need the cabinet to remain at a negative pressure at all time. I don't think you can do that with a simple vac. Plus, does a shop vac have an adequate filtering system, that will block media particles ?

I don't think I will ever get the equipement required to have a true peace of mind and stop wondering if I am not filling my shop with harmfull particles. Bottom line is, I think it is safer to simply blast outside. This is what I do.


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## TranquillityBase (Aug 31, 2010)

tino_ale said:


> I use a cheap metal cabinet and the filter get's clogged very fast. It doesn't filter much anyway. When clogged, the air cannot escape fast enough and finds other ways... and it leaks everywhere.
> 
> Also I suspect even a shop vac will not sufice when you are blasting. What is the CFM of the vac ? If you really want to be sure you would need the cabinet to remain at a negative pressure at all time. I don't think you can do that with a simple vac. Plus, does a shop vac have an adequate filtering system, that will block media particles ?
> 
> I don't think I will ever get the equipement required to have a true peace of mind and stop wondering if I am not filling my shop with harmfull particles. Bottom line is, I think it is safer to simply blast outside. This is what I do.



A HEPA filtration system is only as good as it's maintained 

Common shop vacuum's have two points of exhaust (the electric motor, and the _blowing_ port)...If you isolate these two points of exhaust, and send their combined air volume to a safe zone, it's all good :devil:

Most shop vacs create enough volume to allow a small blast cabinet to maintain negative pressure.


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## gt40 (Aug 31, 2010)

TranquillityBase said:


> A HEPA filtration system is only as good as it's maintained
> 
> Common shop vacuum's have two points of exhaust (the electric motor, and the _blowing_ port)...If you isolate these two points of exhaust, and send their combined air volume to a safe zone, it's all good :devil:
> 
> Most shop vacs create enough volume to allow a small blast cabinet to maintain negative pressure.


 
I actually have a hole cut in the wall of my garage left over when I had a giant dust collection system in a shed outside of it. The shed is gone along with the dust collector(for saw dust) but the hole is perfect to pump exhaust out.


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## wquiles (Aug 31, 2010)

350xfire said:


> I do have one question on the original light picture... How do you get that fine knurled finish? Is that one of those "cutting" knurlers for $1000?
> 
> That looks NICE!!!



What picture you are referring to?


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## Mirage_Man (Sep 1, 2010)

wquiles said:


> What picture you are referring to?



I think he's talking about the first picture in this thread. 

If I'm not mistaken all the knurling that I see in this thread was made with a scissor type form knurling tool.


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