# Headlamp suggestion



## ceri (Aug 23, 2011)

I'm new here, and looking for a professional quality mechanics headlamp. The use will be primarily in/under/around car and other "tool in hand" type stuff. I'd been making due with a cheapo energizer headlamp I picked up at Walgreens one day, but it seems to have decided to die on me. I'm not very experienced with lighting, though I am in school to become an electrical engineer, so I'm technically oriented and familiar with most electrical terms/specs.

I'm sure this question comes up alot, but what type of headlamp is the right fit for me? I'd like something that can switch between a focused beam for small work in confined spaces, as well as wide field overall view of, say, an engine bay. I tend to go over my expected time when doing bigger car jobs, and end up needing light down low. I've knocked over too many adjustable lamps and broken bulbs, so I'm ready to spend some money on a quality headlamp. 

My budget is something in the $40-60 range. I've noticed that zebralight seems to be a popular choice, but upon looking at them, I'm not sure the way the light is mounted looks all that appealing. What concerns me is that the mount from the light to the band looks flimsy, like it will wobble, and that the lens is off-center so it will be a strain to shoot the beam down into a tight dark corner in an engine bay. For instance, looking down into a rearmost spark plug hole (#7 and #8) when I'm straddling a big block V-8 in a lifted truck where my head will barely fit between the firewall and the cylinder heads. If you guys tell me different, I'll jump on board. 

This light need to be durable as I tend to get frustrated and things get banged. I don't want to lean forward, bump my head on a frame rail and the $50 light I just bought dies, or a gently tossed wrench (5 feet or so) knocks into it and it's a goner. 

Living in Texas, I'm sweating most of the time, so a mind for water resistance and definitely corrosion resistance are a big plus. I don't want a brown or green forehead after 12 hours in the garage. 

A longish runtime and readily available battery sizes are preferred. No rechargeables. I can't let my light recharging put an end to my night before the job is done and as mentioned, it's not uncommon for the job to end up taking 4, 6, or even 12 hours. 

Lastly, I wear a size 8 fitted hat, which for most hat vendors is a special order size, so a decently large flexible band would be nice. There are times that 250 ft. lbs. of torque are necessary when working on suspension, so a tight head band combined with straining is a bad combination. 

If you tell me that a $40-60 budget isn't enough to meet these goals, I can probably spend more to get the right light. I don't want output to be an issue. 

If I've left anything out, please let me know and I'll be happy to correct it. 

Thanks!


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## robostudent5000 (Aug 23, 2011)

before i recommend a lamp, it looks like you're gonna have to read up on batteries a little bit. you asked for a bright light that uses easy to find batteries that are not rechargeable. that sounds like you want to use alkalines, but alkaline batteries don't work well in high output led headlamps/flashlights. they give poor runtimes and can leak thus damaging your lamp. 

the best batteries for bright led headlamps are Lithium primaries, LSD Nimh rechargeables, or Li-ion rechargeables, and not necessarily in that order. you should read up on them and figure out which ones you want to use before you decide on a headlamp. the headlamp itself is only really half of the package. the batteries are the other and require just as careful consideration.


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## B0wz3r (Aug 23, 2011)

A zebralight is one of the most compact and durable headlamps around right now IMO. I've had my H51w for close to a year now and it's survived several camping trips, caving, taking the trash out at night, etc. I've also used on a couple of occasions to saw and split logs for firewood in the middle of the night, so I've worked up a good sweat on it and it's had no issues at all. 

I'd suggest you try the H51Fw, which is a neutral white flood beam. The neutral tint will help you distinguish colors better, like for fluids, electrical wires, and the like. The flood model will light of a large area out to several feet distance. And if you don't want to worry about using rechargeables, use Engerizer Ultimate Lithium batteries. They won't leak, have a 10 year shelf life, are fairly widely available, and will give you the longest run time of any AA sized battery.


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## ceri (Aug 23, 2011)

robostudent5000 said:


> before i recommend a lamp, it looks like you're gonna have to read up on batteries a little bit. you asked for a bright light that uses easy to find batteries that are not rechargeable. that sounds like you want to use alkalines, but alkaline batteries don't work well in high output led headlamps/flashlights. they give poor runtimes and can leak thus damaging your lamp.
> 
> the best batteries for bright led headlamps are Lithium primaries, LSD Nimh rechargeables, or Li-ion rechargeables, and not necessarily in that order. you should read up on them and figure out which ones you want to use before you decide on a headlamp. the headlamp itself is only really half of the package. the batteries are the other and require just as careful consideration.



As the second responder mentioned, I guess I'm looking for lithium ion disposables. I assume they make them in AA and AAA? I've never spent much time pondering batteries (at least not real world batteries ). Your point about leaking alkaline batteries leaking is well taken. I'm guessing that's what killed my little energizer headlamp. It's most likely going to be stored in a garage that probably sees summer temps above 110*F and maybe more. Ideally it could handle that so I can keep it with my other tools. 

Does anyone have a picture of a zebralight on their head so I can see how far off-center the light source is? That's one of my concerns about them. Looking at them on zebralight's website, it occurs to me that it looks like it's centered directly above the right eye, so for all I know it might actually be better than dead center for looking down tight holes. 



B0wz3r said:


> A zebralight is one of the most compact and durable headlamps around right now IMO. I've had my H51w for close to a year now and it's survived several camping trips, caving, taking the trash out at night, etc. I've also used on a couple of occasions to saw and split logs for firewood in the middle of the night, so I've worked up a good sweat on it and it's had no issues at all.
> 
> I'd suggest you try the H51Fw, which is a neutral white flood beam. The neutral tint will help you distinguish colors better, like for fluids, electrical wires, and the like. The flood model will light of a large area out to several feet distance. And if you don't want to worry about using rechargeables, use Engerizer Ultimate Lithium batteries. They won't leak, have a 10 year shelf life, are fairly widely available, and will give you the longest run time of any AA sized battery.


 
I do like the neutral white idea, but I'm wondering if flood will be best. I'd really like adjustable flood or narrow beam modes if that's possible. If zebralight doesn't do it, then I'm open to other brands. Obviously the primary use wont involve great distances. I'm thinking something optimized for 2-10 feet is plenty. Would this be a spot plus beam configuration maybe?


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## ryguy24000 (Aug 23, 2011)

you could move the Zebra right or left if you want. In fact you could wear it higher on your forehead which is nice for eye glass people.


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## skyfire (Aug 24, 2011)

with a flood beam, the off centered zebralight really isnt an issue. i have a zebralight H31w with XR-E, which is probably their throwiest model, with the tightest hotspot, and its not an issue. I have a diffuser on it now though cause i prefer a floodier beam for my headlamps.

the ZL mount is made of silicone, and holds the light in place well... you can rotate and direct the light. and itll stay in its position without problems. the mount holds the light securely also, the light wont just slip out of it, even if you accidently knock it. the headband would probably shift on your head, or come loose before the light would.

I have a magnet epoxied to the bottom of my ZL h501w, and have stuck it underneath my hood, wheelwell, engine bay, etc.
the angled head makes it easy to position it.
and while working on the field as a aircraft mechanic, many times i would carry my ZL clipped in my front chest shirt pocket.

the ZL H51 models are also very bright with 1.5v batteries, and are designed with for them.
nimh rechargeables such as eneloops work great in them. as well as energizer lithiums(which is what i use in my AA lights).
alkalines are not recommended, because of poor runtimes, and chance of leaking. 

I recently experienced a leak in my streamlight using 2xAAs. luckily, that light is used quite often and i caught it before the acid built up.

regarding ruggedness, you have to keep in mind these are very compact lights. the elastic headband and silicone rubber mounts would give it added cushion, but i dont recommend putting it in a shelf where ratchets and wrenches are thrown in. also the headband would soak grease, and you wouldnt want that. i would suggest hanging it up on a hook or something.
ive dropped my H501w (which is a older more thinly machined model) many times and it still working, but like cars, there are lemons LoL.

with all that said, i too, would recommend the ZL H51Fw.

you might also what to check out Spark, they have a single AA headlamp in the more tradition design.
and they are working on a line of all flood versions, due to come out in the coming months.


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## B0wz3r (Aug 24, 2011)

I've had no issues with the form factor of the ZL's other than the fact their bezel is flush with their body creates some glare for me in my glasses. I can live with it for the most part though. You might want to look at the Sparks; they have a three band headband, that I find is more secure, and they also have a t-shaped body design with the emitter protruding from the front of the light. I have the ST5-190nw. This works very well for me because it doesn't cause the glare issues in my glasses that my H51w does. It's also floodier than the H51w. 

I tend to use the H51w more for indoors tasks and things like that, where I'm looking down, like sewing patches on a pack, working on small items at my desk or workbench, etc. I use the Spark more for outdoors activities where I'm moving around a lot and am more active.


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## Bolster (Aug 24, 2011)

ceri said:


> I'm new here, and looking for a professional quality mechanics headlamp. The use will be primarily in/under/around car and other "tool in hand" type stuff. .... I've noticed that zebralight seems to be a popular choice, but upon looking at them, I'm not sure the way the light is mounted looks all that appealing. What concerns me is that the mount from the light to the band looks flimsy, like it will wobble, and that the lens is off-center so it will be a strain to shoot the beam down into a tight dark corner in an engine bay. For instance, looking down into a rearmost spark plug hole (#7 and #8) when I'm straddling a big block V-8 in a lifted truck where my head will barely fit between the firewall and the cylinder heads......This light need to be durable ......



1. Excellent job thinking through your needs and wants. Much easier to give options when the user knows what he needs. 

2. I am also a "tooly," most of my headlamp useage is with tools in one or both hands. For our usage, a floody lamp is the preferred solution, so see the link in my sig line for a relatively complete list of options. When working close up, peripheral vision is important. That's why an even flood excels. With a spot, your iris must constantly adjust when you look off the center of the beam, and then back into the center of the beam. The closer your work, the more you need flood. End of your arm? Flood! 

3. Regarding the Zebralight mounting, you're correct, it *looks* flimsy. In useage it's very well executed. It does not flop about; it has a good amount of drag upon adjusting (but not too much). The silicone holder is almost tacky (not quite) and does a great job of anchoring the light where you want it. As others have noted, with a floody light you only need rough adjustments. (With narrow lights you are constantly adjusting, and it's frustrating as heck.) I do a fair amount of "looking down holes" with Zebralights, you just adjust the lens to be directly above one eye (riding on the eyebrow). 

4. Don't worry about "off center." If you want the beam dead centered between your brows, just put the lens there, let the body hang a little to one side. I do that all the time. On a flood it makes no difference, and there is no feeling of "offcenteredness" or weight differential on your head, either. The light is too lightweight for you to sense that it's pushed to one side by half an inch. 

You may become a dual-user as I often am; two Zebralights, swapped opposite ends, one lens directly above each eye. Good for when you need more light, or a longer runtime. 

5. Regarding durability: do you think you'll be putting more moisture and salt on it than this sailor?

As Bowz says, a Spark's a good lamp too. It would be my second choice because they're not as floody unless you remove the reflector. Although Spark has a full flood on the drawing board, the SD5. Haven't heard anything about that one, recently.


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## mhejl (Aug 24, 2011)

I have 3 different ZL headlamps and, as an ex-mechanic, I wouldn't pick them over other choices. I must be one of the few that really doesn't like the ZL headband/mount. I wouldn't want to wear one for extended times, particularly when it is hot (like it is now in Texas). IMHO, the elastic is too thin (bunches up sometimes) and the silicone mount "ears" are uncomfortable and leave dents in my forehead. The mount itself bunches up on the headband making matters worse.

Of the three I have, I'd prefer the H51 while wrenching - the others are too floody and you need a better hot spot for that type of work.

I grab my modded Tiika XP with eneloops when working on the cars. I'm sure there's many more choices; that's just what I have.


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## ceri (Aug 24, 2011)

Thanks for the recommendations so far. 

You guys have hit on my biggest concerns. I'm honestly leaning away from a wide angle flood pattern for the reason mhejl mentioned. I do however understand the reasoning behind Bolster's comment about peripheral vision. My light lingo may not be the best, but I have noticed when looking over some specs that some of the...non-flood?....lights mention a hot spot angle of around 11 degrees and a flood of 90 degrees. I don't think those particular numbers are what I'm going for, but the concept is. Perhaps something with a hot spot of 20-30* and a flood of 90*? Is such a model made by anyone? I get that a hotspot is a collection of light using reflections, so let me know if 20-30* is absurd. I doubt I'll become a lighting enthusiast, so I'd prefer something that came ready to use out of the box (don't have to mod). 

The spec sheets on Spark's website are relatively thin compared to ZL and most of this stuff is new to me anyway. I've never heard of Tiika, and I'm getting a crash course on battery terms. Does anyone have a link to a model from any manufacturer that fits my criteria?

Recap of what that is:
1. Durable (wont break if a wrench sliding across the floor runs into it)
2. Long life (6-12 hours on easily accessible batteries)
3. 20-30* hotspot, ~90* flood
4. Relatively good water and corrosion resistance (gallons of sweat in a garage that sees temps of 110*)
5. Centered on the forehead design
6. Big, comfortable, durable, and secure head strap. 
7. Enough output for someone to know it's an expensive light (and not to be played with). I'm not trying to scare away bears with it, but I don't want everything else to be great and the output suck. Different brightness levels would be nice, so I can use medium setting for most tasks, but high if necessary. 
8. Non-rechargeable light source so if I do run out of juice, I can just swap in some more on the fly. 

Links to some ideas would be appreciated. 

Thanks!


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## robostudent5000 (Aug 24, 2011)

ceri said:


> 8. Non-rechargeable light source so if I do run out of juice, I can just swap in some more on the fly.



this statement confuses me. it sounds like you mean to say that you don't want a headlamp with a built in battery pack. but read literally, you're excluding all rechargeable batteries like Eneloops and Li-ions which can be easily removed and replaced with fully charged spares. given your other parameters Eneloops or Li-ions are probably the best possible options for you.


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## B0wz3r (Aug 24, 2011)

ceri, the hotspot is the bright center portion of the beam of the flashlight. Different lights have different beam profiles based on their emitter and reflector (or lack thereof as the case may be).

If you want a narrow overall beam but a large hotspot in that beam, I can't think of any lights on the market right now that really do that, that meet your requirements. The one that will come closest is a Spark ST6 model; and they run close to $100 and use only li-ion rechargeable 18650 cells. That said, they are exceptionally bright and have good throw, with a lot of flood too. If you don't want to invest in li-ions and a charger yet, look at the Spark ST5 headlamps, particularly the new ones with the XML emitters. They have the largest hotspot of any headlamp I've ever seen, but also throw a very wide cone of light. They can also use any AA format chemistry; alkaline, li-ion primary and rechargeable, and nimh.


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## skyfire (Aug 25, 2011)

something has to give... long runtime, bright, or size. our technology isnt good enough to provide all three.

the biggest draw back is the power source. accessible batteries, even the lithium AA at 1.5v dont have the capacity and wont give you the needed power.

if your willing to use CR123 lithium disposables, or 18650 li-ion rechargeables you might find what you want.
Spark ST6 XM-L was mentioned and that might fit your requirements...
its very bright, with a big hotspot because its using a XM-L with small reflector. it throws well simply because of the brute power of the XM-L emitter.
very long runtimes on medium settings while using a 18650li-ion.
and can also use 2xCR123 lithiums.

CR123 lithium disposables are actually cheaper if you buy in bulk online, then energizer lithium AAs.
i buy mine for about 1.25 each, i use several different brands, all made in the USA.


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## B0wz3r (Aug 25, 2011)

skyfire said:


> something has to give... long runtime, bright, or size. our technology isnt good enough to provide all three.
> 
> the biggest draw back is the power source. accessible batteries, even the lithium AA at 1.5v dont have the capacity and wont give you the needed power.
> 
> ...


 
123 primaries have no more mah in them than L91's.

4 packs of L91's are available on the 'big A' for $6; you only have to buy 4 at a time to get a good price, instead of dozens.

For what he's asking for, 18650's are the best way to go.


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## Bolster (Aug 25, 2011)

Do as you like, but the majority of people who do close-up work (meaning, at end of your arms) get frustrated with hotspots...with the possible exception of surgeons who stare down holes. I'm an ex-mechanic too, and I don't even want a 'directional flood' for close work (nice as they are for walking, hiking, etc.), I want a full flood. My eyes tire quickly, having to constantly readjust to different brightnesses in my field of vision.

My work requires good peripheral vision, though. I have to scan for problems outside my direct gaze, find tools in the dark, see what's happening outside a small spot. If you're constantly peering down a tiny opening, then a tighter beam could work for you. But the only advantage a tighter beam would give, is more throw and more brightness. How could you consider NOT seeing your periphery, an advantage? Or having your periphery much dimmer than your point of vision? A smaller field of view is seldom an advantage with up-close work. You'd probably find that a brighter flood would be ideal. 

Maybe you should try an H60.


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## B0wz3r (Aug 25, 2011)

Bolster said:


> But the only advantage a tighter beam would give, is more throw and more brightness.


 
Close-up this can actually be a disadvantage; the bright hotspot can actually be too bright and reduce your ability to see what's right in front of you.


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## VC CH (Aug 25, 2011)

ceri said:


> Thanks for the recommendations so far.
> 
> You guys have hit on my biggest concerns. I'm honestly leaning away from a wide angle flood pattern for the reason mhejl mentioned. I do however understand the reasoning behind Bolster's comment about peripheral vision. My light lingo may not be the best, but I have noticed when looking over some specs that some of the...non-flood?....lights mention a hot spot angle of around 11 degrees and a flood of 90 degrees. I don't think those particular numbers are what I'm going for, but the concept is. Perhaps something with a hot spot of 20-30* and a flood of 90*? Is such a model made by anyone? I get that a hotspot is a collection of light using reflections, so let me know if 20-30* is absurd. I doubt I'll become a lighting enthusiast, so I'd prefer something that came ready to use out of the box (don't have to mod).
> 
> ...


 


IMO , iAA batteries(easily accessible batteries) will be ok , a type of headlamp can reach 220 lumen , but the weakness is that the runtime is 2.5 hours .


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## jialx (Aug 26, 2011)

This is a very good advice,thankyou


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## Bicycleflyer (Aug 26, 2011)

I'm going to go against the grain here, and will probably get flamed for it....but here goes. 

This is my suggestion for you...

http://www.rei.com/product/737855/petzl-tactikka-xp-adapt-led-headlamp


I fly a 747 worldwide, but I have been a mechanic and still get to work with our line mechanics a lot. These guys work outside in a variety of conditions in Africa, Asia, Afghanistan, Alaska (winter), India, and of course we go into Texas. Believe it or not, the most popular headlamp I see used is the basic Energizer headlamp. They love them, which goes to prove you don't necessarily need the highest performance, or most expensive headlamp. I carry in my flight bag a Princeton-tec "byte" and some of the mechanics who know I have it, like to borrow it. They love it's small size and one mech I loaned it to has purchased one for himself.

Good luck to you...


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## joanne (Sep 6, 2011)

Hi Ceri,

May I suggest that you reconsider your position on rechargeable batteries? 

If you are working as a mechanic, the day-in day-out cost of batteries will really start to add up. Even if you buy in quantity you will have to replace the batteries on a regular basis (maybe daily). If you purchase two sets of rechargeable batteries, you can keep one set in the light and one set in the charger. You'll never have to worry about not having charged batteries ready to go at a moment's notice. You won't find yourself in the position of having to run out and purchase batteries in the middle of a job.

I have a couple of headlamps and a flashlight that use CR123 batteries. The cost of batteries is quickly catching up to the cost of the lights themselves. I'm currently working out the details of modifying the headlamps to use larger, rechargeable battery packs for longer run time and lower cost of operation. 

Anyway, I'm just sharing my experience with the operating cost of disposable batteries in a high-use device.

_*Joanne*_


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## B0wz3r (Sep 6, 2011)

joanne said:


> Hi Ceri,
> 
> May I suggest that you reconsider your position on rechargeable batteries?
> 
> _*Joanne*_


 
Agreed. Eneloops will do a better job of providing power to most any light, than alkalines will. If you use lithium primaries, like Energizer Ultimate Lithiums, or CR123 primaries, the costs will add up fast. For the price of about 4 packs of batteries you can get a decent charger and a couple 4-packs of Sanyo Eneloops that will outperform and outlast primaries. You'll save money in the long run, and it will also be better for the environment. It really isn't that hard to carry a couple of spare fresh cells in a pocket for when you need them.

If you're going to spend as much on a light as you mention, you shouldn't worry about the cost of rechargeables and a charger. You could even get one of the best ones out there, a Maha C9000, which will prolong the life of your rechargeables even more, adding to their value. I'm reminded of when I was in college and working as a mechanic in a bike shop. We sold a lot of high end bikes; people would come in and drop two, three, even five thousand $ on a high end custom bike or titanium bike, and then balk at spending $300 on a high quality rack to carry their bike on... It just doesn't make sense... 

In the long run, you could even spend less on the light itself, like BikeFlyer suggests, but still get a quality charger and good cells. Then, if you ever decide to move up to a "better" quality light, you've already got that part of the set-up ready to go.


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## Glock27 (Sep 6, 2011)

I do HVAC work and I use either an H50 or H501w. I prefer the flood over a StreamLight I had before. Rechargeable Sanyo 2700 NiMh provide plenty of runtime. I carry a couple spare cells in the truck. I find a neutral tint is much easier on my eyes and helps in color tracing of wires. 

G27


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## uk_caver (Sep 7, 2011)

Regarding looking into holes, is a 'centred' lamp actually an advantage if you can only look with one or other eye?

I'd have thought the important thing might sometimes be the minimum distance from the best eye for the job.


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## B0wz3r (Sep 7, 2011)

uk_caver said:


> Regarding looking into holes, is a 'centred' lamp actually an advantage if you can only look with one or other eye?
> 
> I'd have thought the important thing might sometimes be the minimum distance from the best eye for the job.


 
In that case you'd probably want a handheld light so you can aim it precisely and vary the angle to get a good view through the narrow space. I don't think the form factor of a headlight would make any difference, because no matter where you move your head, the light will move with you; you need to be able to move both independently to find the best relative positions of eye, light, and hole.


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