# emachineshop



## sstrauss (Dec 31, 2004)

http://emachineshop.com/
Has anyone tried these guys? Looks like they might be of use to someone with more knowledge than me.
Scott


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## chevrofreak (Dec 31, 2004)

From what a friend tells me, it costs about as much for them to make 1 item, as it does for them to make 200. It would be great for someone with some serious skill. Could turn out some damned nice flashlights.


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## idleprocess (Dec 31, 2004)

I got tired of messing around with their software after 30 minutes. Their capabilities seem limited to 3-axis milling (2.5D) judging by their software.


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## chevrofreak (Dec 31, 2004)

I was also told that their software can import files made in other CAD programs.


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## idleprocess (Jan 1, 2005)

I would hope so since the interface on their app was a bit, uh, "underwhelming."

I imagine I could do just as well on price by sketching up something in 2D CAD and talking to local metal shops.


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## flashlightlens (Jan 1, 2005)

I've created a few parts with their software and received some price estimates. They seem to be REALLY expensive - at least for the stuff I designed. I always end up going local, or spending the extra money to buy the tooling I need to do it myself.


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## HenryMudd (Jan 2, 2005)

I have a problem that I posted on one of the other forums. Basically I have bought some batteries that are about 1/8 inch too long and when I put 5 of them in the flashlight, I can't get the tail cap on.

I need someone who can make me a short extension to the flashlight that I can screw the tail cap into.

Do you have any idea how I would go about finding someone that would do that kind of work, relatively cheap?


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## rwolff (Jan 2, 2005)

[ QUOTE ]

Basically I have bought some batteries that are about 1/8 inch too long and when I put 5 of them in the flashlight, I can't get the tail cap on.

I need someone who can make me a short extension to the flashlight that I can screw the tail cap into.


[/ QUOTE ]

I assume these batteries are "nonstandard" (i.e. not the ones the light is meant to take). A 5/8" extension (assuming the 1/8" is per-cell, not total - if it's total, you're SOL for an extension (probably need to have expanded ID and reduced OD at the same point), but my alternate solution would still work) at the tailcap is asking for trouble (good chance of unscrewing the extension instead of the tailcap). A "billet" (made from solid stock) extension will involve machining the outside and inside diameters, and both male and female threads, with only 5/8" of "barrel" to grab when unscrewing the tail cap. How expensive is the "stock" flashlight? If you're modifying something (relatively) cheap like a Mag, you might want to consider buying a second "sacrificial" one (doesn't have to be the same model - if you're working with a 5D, a 2D would be fine). This takes care of the inside and outside diameters. Make your extension longer than necessary (enough to get a good grip on it), which requires trimming the "host" body. Cut a female thread in the end of the shortened "host" (using the end of the "sacrificial" light as a model), and a male thread on the end of a section cut from the "sacrificial" light (using the end cap as a model). If you insist on making a 5/8" extension (i.e. no cutting of the host), all you need to cut is one male thread (since the female thread is already present on the "sacrificial" light). As a bonus, you get an extra switch/head assembly, in case you wreck something when doing the "head end" mod.

Think ahead - since you'll be paying at least $50/hr for someone to do the machining for you, saving a large part of the work by spending a few bucks on a "sacrificial" flashlight could save you some money.

If you find a CPFer who wants to do a "shortened" version of the same family (i.e. 4AA->D in a "1D" Mag), you may be able to trade materials for machining (the "leftovers" of your "sacrificial" light would be enough to build their light out of, and they'd need to cut down a 2D light anyway, so it would only involve cutting one extra male thread to make an extension), but you wouldn't get the spare switch/head if you took this route.


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## HenryMudd (Jan 3, 2005)

You are right. These batteries are not factory replacements. I thought all sub c were the same size.

Yes it is 1/8 per cell for a total of 5/8. With probably a +/- of about 1/8 due to the spring at the head end.

Buy another UltraStinger (I already have two) and using one of the old ones to construct the extensions out of might be possible. I hate to spend that much.

Does anyone know about how much I would cost to have someone make a pair of these extensions? If it is going to be the same or more than a new light, I guess that I would get the new light. I think I am capable of cutting the threads myself. Though of course the inside threads will only be correctly cut on one extension (factory)

I have not been able to figure out how they attatch the head to the body. It doesn't unscrew.


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## HenryMudd (Jan 4, 2005)

I have an old Stinger that I would be willing to scrifice to make extension rings but I can't find any way to thread it.

It is exactly the same size tube. The tail cap is interchangable with the one on the UltraStinger.

I sure would appriciate help with this.


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## IsaacHayes (Jan 6, 2005)

Henry, best bet would be to sell the sub-c's and then get some that don't have tabs. I'm pretty sure that's your problem.


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## HenryMudd (Jan 7, 2005)

I have found the very best solution for this problem. I took the whole thing to a person who used to be a machinist and he said that there looked like there was enough room in the tail cap to accomodate the larger batteries length, if one bored out the end cap to accomodate the new batteries width.

You see normally the batter stick sits on top of the tail cap. Once the tail cap was bored out to the dimension of the battery, the battery could sit down INSIDE the tail cap. 

This gave me about 3/8 of an inch. The rest of the room I needed was taken up by the spring.

The biggest concern was can the tail cap be bored out enough to accomdate the battery and still have enough material left to hold the threads.

The second concern was would the bored out space provide enough room to allow the tail cap to be screwed down tight.

The answer to both of these questions was yes.

I had a friend who works with a machinist do the work. It took him less than 5 minutes to bore out the cap on a lathe.

The cap works great now. And if I want to go back to the old style battery stick, all I have to do is put somekind of a spacer in the tail cap to take up the extra space.

Also I did do a run time test on the new batteries. The old 1800 mAh stick was giving me about 55 minutes. The new 3300 mAh stick ran 1 hour and 35 minutes on its first charge. Not bad!

Thanks guys for all of you suggestions and support.


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## Guter (Jan 7, 2005)

A little late on for me to post on this topic, but here goes, hehe. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

The way emachineshop likey works is as a subcontractor.

As in, what they do, is once they get a drawing sent in thru their site, is they package it up as a quote, and send it off to local machine shops, or machine shops that subscribe to their service. The machine shop then returns the quote back to emachineshop, who then tacks a premium ontop of the lowest quote they get.

As I see it, the best thing to do is just quote around personally, and eliminate the middleman. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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