# Remington RMHL4AA-B Update!!!



## shadow745 (Dec 28, 2008)

I've been tinkering with my latest headlamp, the Remington I found at Lowe's for $40. Has great features, killer brightness and is really comfortable to wear. I'll have to get my wife to show me how to use the new camera software, but I did take some shots of the rear part of the headlamp and from what I can see it sports a massive heatsink made out of what appears to be aluminum. I haven't taken it apart, but it has cooling fins that allow a great view of the heatsink. I don't know too much about headlamps yet, but it appears that whoever designed this thing really did their homework. I'll try to get those pics posted. Later!


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## Yucca Patrol (Dec 28, 2008)

Great to hear that it was designed to handle the heat! This headlamp sounds like a real contender and definitely some serious competition for the PT Apex and similar designs with all the right stuff: 4xAA, bright, proper heat sink, etc.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 28, 2008)

I was actually going to post a video review of it last night, but didn't because I'm sick and I didn't like the sound of my voice.

The headlamp is absolutely sick (in a good way) though! It isn't as bright as it claims on the packaging. It's only around 110 lumens with fresh cells, but the features are so damn cool that they make up for it. It's a real thrower too without the diffuser. It has over 4,000 lux. I'm pretty sure the headlamp is made by rayovac, but it is definitely high quality and worth every penny.

I'll try to get a written review up latter tonight.


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## shadow745 (Dec 28, 2008)

Yeah I have a few pics of the heatsink area, but have no clue how to post them. If any of you'd like to see what the heatsink looks like, simply e-mail me and I'll reply back with the pics. Otherwise I doubt I'll bother trying to post them, not much of a computer geek.

I totally agree..... I have no idea if it is as bright as advertised, but will certainly throw a killer beam and the light is nice and white with no hotspots. All other features work as advertised and once I saw how well the heatsink is designed I knew it was a proper headlamp. And for $40........ Later!


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## shadow745 (Dec 28, 2008)

I was actually considering the Coast H7 7497 with the focus beam and dimmer. But after finding this forum and reading about how important certain parts of the headlamp are (heatsink for one) I gave up on the Coast. I do like their flashlights and the look/design of their headlamps, but the headlamp itself looks a bit small to have much of a heatsink. I guess if the efficiency is there maybe it's not needed. I also have a hard time believeing it puts out what they claim on just 3AAA batts. Later!


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 28, 2008)

shadow745 said:


> I was actually considering the Coast H7 7497 with the focus beam and dimmer. But after finding this forum and reading about how important certain parts of the headlamp are (heatsink for one) I gave up on the Coast. I do like their flashlights and the look/design of their headlamps, but the headlamp itself looks a bit small to have much of a heatsink. I guess if the efficiency is there maybe it's not needed. I also have a hard time believeing it puts out what they claim on just 3AAA batts. Later!




Do yourself a favor and DON'T buy the Coast H7!!! Coast has made some really nice products in the last year (P7,P14) but the H7 is junk compared to every other headlamp at its price point. The battery pack is not water proof at all, the focusing system doesn't work very well at all compared to their flashlights, the switch is microscopic and very hard to locate in the dark or when wearing gloves. 
The only thing the H7 has going for it is maximum brightness and highest lux. I will say the overall brightness is very impressive, but the cons out weight he pros by a large margin.


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## degarb (Dec 30, 2008)

Anyone can measure current levels?

http://www.chuckhawks.com/remington_headlight.htm
According to this site, 4 hours high at 150 lumens. I am guessing measured at 110 lumen because it has a Rayovac extreme type lens, which appears to me to soak up %30 of available lumens. Still something is wrong with the numbers. If they claim 4 hours, I will guess on 2000 milliamps, or 500 milliamp draw, which is close to 2 watts on high (over 400 millamps need heat sink and external metal, which was concern until reading this thread). Well at 2 watts, I would expect to see 200 lumen range with xre and 150 range with xre. So, either they are using a very low bin xre led, or xrc. Is the tint warm?

Is this controller based or resistor? I am guessing resistor,since only 4 hours on high. I would expect better runtime per lumen output and battery format.

If brightness at medium level is good, then so far, this looks like the best value in a quick grab, no-need-to-modify format.


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## nksmfamjp (Dec 30, 2008)

Just got mine at Lowes. It looks like it is a good light. I'm trying to look it over and see how it's built. I'll post a review when I figure it out. To be honest, my only complaint so far is that it doesn't have any detail on the package, web and there is no manual. If someone could do a runtime chart, that would be revolutionary! Seriously, other than the Chuck Hawks site, it is almost impossible to find detail about modes. There are no beamshots online. I can probably post beamshots sometime.

BTW. . .it does have a big metal heatsink on the backside.


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## Phaserburn (Dec 30, 2008)

How is the construction of the diffuser lens? Is it well built, or kind of flimsy?


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## shadow745 (Dec 31, 2008)

Yeah my only complaint is the lack of info on it and no manual included. Very few details on the packaging.

I think the diffuser is nicely done. It is thick enough and clicks solidly in place on each side. Does a good job of spreading the light out pretty evenly.

I looked high and low over the weekend (online and in stores) for something with comparable specs and features and could find nothing in this price range, really not even close. That big heatsink design sealed the deal for me. I use it almost daily doing various things outside. If any of you want an upclose pic of the heatsink design e-mail me and I'll send a pic or 2. I can also take a few close-ups of the LEDs if that's needed as well. Later!


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## Marduke (Jan 1, 2009)

I would say the Energizer Hard Case 100lm headlamp is close in price and function.


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## SureAddicted (Jan 1, 2009)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> Do yourself a favor and DON'T buy the Coast H7!!! Coast has made some really nice products in the last year (P7,P14) but the H7 is junk compared to every other headlamp at its price point. The battery pack is not water proof at all, the focusing system doesn't work very well at all compared to their flashlights, the switch is microscopic and very hard to locate in the dark or when wearing gloves.
> The only thing the H7 has going for it is maximum brightness and highest lux. I will say the overall brightness is very impressive, but the cons out weight he pros by a large margin.



I totally disagree. The focusing system is the same technology on all LL lights. It uses a different mechanism, they couldn't of added the push pull focus system for obvious reasons, but it works pretty well. Once you've used the switch muscle memory sets in and its no different than other HL's. The switch isn't that small as my noob friends have no problems with it at all. I don't see why locating the switch in the dark or daylight should make a difference, as the HL is mounted on your forehead and you wont be able to see the switch no matter what.
Each to their own I guess.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 1, 2009)

SureAddicted said:


> I totally disagree. The focusing system is the same technology on all LL lights. It uses a different mechanism, they couldn't of added the push pull focus system for obvious reasons, but it works pretty well. Once you've used the switch muscle memory sets in and its no different than other HL's. The switch isn't that small as my noob friends have no problems with it at all. I don't see why locating the switch in the dark or daylight should make a difference, as the HL is mounted on your forehead and you wont be able to see the switch no matter what.
> Each to their own I guess.




I think the reason the focusing doesn't work anywhere near as well on the H7 as it does on my P7 is because the H7 doesn't have a very deep optic. There is a huge dark spot in the middle of the beam on my H7. Here is a list of reasons why I wouldn't recommend the H7 to anyone:

- Focusing system doesn't work as well as it could
- Button is way too small,hard to find in dark and even worse if gloves are worn
- No regulation at all. Runtime will most likely be VERY short on high!
- Battery pack is not water resistant at all!!!
- Uses 3AAA cells instead of AA, even though the cells are in the back of the head in a carrier
- No top strap, headlamp can slide down
- The actual headband can't get very large. I have a large but not huge head (7 1/2 fitted) and this thing barely fits my head. I have it stretched to the very largest setting. If my head were any bigger it would be really tight.
- Overall it just feels like a cheap headlamp with poor quality.

I've owned well over a dozen headlamps, and I was expecting this one to be pretty cool, especially since I really like the P7. I've never been so let down!


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## Phaserburn (Jan 1, 2009)

Is the top strap removeable? Anyone discover if a circuit is involved, or a resistor? Can the 5mm leds be gotten to for replacement (different colors)?


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## shadow745 (Jan 1, 2009)

Yeah on the Remington the top strap is removable. Actually comes in 3 parts, both sides and the top and you assmeble it. 

I have no idea what the inside looks like and what it consists of. I may take the back cover off and take a few pics for those interested.

Again... have no idea if the 5mm can be replaced. Later!


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## nksmfamjp (Jan 1, 2009)

There is definitely some circuitry to the headlamp. If I remember my EE 101 well, there is definately a few IC's. I didn't see any resisters, that I remember. I think there was some sort of transformer. . .?? Maybe I just need to get some pics up and have you all tell me what I'm seeing! If a person was good at soldering, I think the inside would be a mod'ers paradise! I do think you could put any 3 LED's in you wanted. Now, to change their function, would require more circuit work. They function now as 2 red, 2red + 1 blue, or 2 red flashing.

Again, why isn't there a place on Remington's Website where I can go and see some layout of specs, functions, beamshots. . .? Urrrrrrrrrrrrrgh! Still love the light.


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## degarb (Jan 2, 2009)

Marduke said:


> I would say the Energizer Hard Case 100lm headlamp is close in price and function.



I have yet to see such an Energizer animal at store in Ohio. Seen only one Internet site with it. 

To me, this means I can't return it if I don't like it, and it is an item I can only buy when I don't need it. Thus, as likely to build a better light from scratch . Next day or two day can be expensive.


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## Marduke (Jan 2, 2009)

degarb said:


> I have yet to see such an Energizer animal at store in Ohio. Seen only one Internet site with it.
> 
> To me, this means I can't return it if I don't like it, and it is an item I can only buy when I don't need it. Thus, as likely to build a better light from scratch . Next day or two day can be expensive.



You can still return online orders. Most CPF'ers realize almost all good lights must be bought online. They have too small of a margin to carry them in B&M stores. There are a couple good reviews on the light, so you can find out much more about it than seeing it on a shelf.


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## MerlinXIX (Jan 5, 2009)

Grabbed one of these buggers recently in a small comparison of lower cost lights. I compared it up against the Coleman XR-E light that Walmart,etc... are stocking.

There is no way it is 140 Lumens. The XR-E was the same if not stronger than the Rem.

The diffusing lens that rotates seems pretty solid on my piece. However, I wouldn't go throwing rocks against it or anything.

I was also unhappy with the lack of instructions. For people who have never had anything to do with lights outside of your regular unscrew the bulb/body lights it could be extremely confusing.

I'm also not exactly a fan of having to click through the different settings on it to get what I want. The Coleman XR-E has a "slider" bar of sorts to get to what you want. 

I really wanted to like this light but I'm not so sure anymore...


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## degarb (Jan 6, 2009)

MerlinXIX said:


> Grabbed one of these buggers recently in a small comparison of lower cost lights. I compared it up against the Coleman XR-E light that Walmart,etc... are stocking.
> 
> There is no way it is 140 Lumens. The XR-E was the same if not stronger than the Rem.



I don't have this light, but will note that I see people saying such if beam pattern isn't distributed the way they percieve as bright. The best way if you don't have a meter is to put a sheet of white paper over lens of each light. This eliminates most human bias. Then you will better see if one light is really brighter.

For me, both of my Coleman xr-e aren't as bright as my Brinkman lux 1's (40 lumen rating v. 105 lumen). I use them to paint and patch. For me, most skips and texture imperfections are of low contrast level enough that they disappear out of vision if eye moves 6 inches away or more (distance only means at 12 to15 foot the typical skip disappear totally out of vision, looking directly at skip; inverse square law applies to the eye ability to gather detail vision too.) Thus, I don't care about flood or spill as much as spot. And the coleman lights at walmart don't have much spot, by my standards. Except their 77 lumenish xr-c, which makes most other lights see in dim mode for me.

On the other hand I have seen throwers (energizer 2 aa hardcase) said to be dim by others, probably because they don't have much spill. I can see this, since if you are hiking through woods, you need more flood than spot.


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## kevinm (Jan 22, 2009)

Does anyone have a SKU for this at Lowes? The few I have been to in Denver all have the Coast H7 instead. Lame.

Thanks,
Kevin


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## kevinm (Feb 5, 2009)




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## bobski (Apr 17, 2009)




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## kevinm (Apr 17, 2009)

Thanks for the photos, Bobski! 

These still have not made it to Denver. Anyone have the SKU so that I can try to find and order one?

Thanks,
Kevin


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## lasercrazy (Apr 17, 2009)

If possible could you measure the led? I'd like to see if either the 14mm or 16mm dx Q5 boards will fit with some modification.


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## jankj (Apr 18, 2009)

shadow745 said:


> I was actually considering the Coast H7 7497 with the focus beam and dimmer. But after finding this forum and reading about how important certain parts of the headlamp are (heatsink for one) I gave up on the Coast. I do like their flashlights and the look/design of their headlamps, but the headlamp itself looks a bit small to have much of a heatsink. I guess if the efficiency is there maybe it's not needed. I also have a hard time believeing it puts out what they claim on just 3AAA batts. Later!



Well, it rather comes together, doesn't it? With the kind of energy available from 3AAA cells you really don't need to be overly concerned with heat sinking.... (Unless you burn all that energy in 3 minutes, that is... ) 

I think the unregulated 3AAA headlamps have their place simply because you need far less light than you think. You go WOW, THAT'S BRIGHT the first time you turn it on (with fresh batteries) and as the light grows dimmer you simply don't notice because your eyes adjust. And the 3AAA form factor is hard to beat, both in practical use (small, light) and in production (uncomplicated, cheap). 


The led lenser probably makes some of the best 3*AAA lights available (I don't own any LL, so I won't know for sure), but they are still 3*AAA lights. Non-flashaholic owners just plain loves them because they do their job and are well built. My main complain with led lenser is failure to provide specifications that I can relate to. Their marketing mumbo-jumbo about run time and light output is hyper-inflated and physical unrealistic. At their price point, I want to know how much of the original lumens is left after 30 minutes, 1 hour, 2 hours and so on.


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## bobski (Apr 18, 2009)

kevinm said:


> Anyone have the SKU so that I can try to find and order one?


0 12800 50883 9



lasercrazy said:


> If possible could you measure the led?


The base board is 13.75 mm at it's widest, the metal ring around the lens is about 6.85 mm. The hole in the light's back plate (where the emitter board contacts the heat sink) is 14.51 mm.


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## lasercrazy (Apr 24, 2009)

Thanks a bunch man.


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## bobski (May 13, 2009)

After reading a thread discussing idle (all lights off) power drain in lights with electronic switches, I decided to take some tail cap style measurements.

Idle: just under 3 µA
Front red LEDs on solid: 80 mA
Red and blue LEDs: 110 mA
White LED high: 165 mA
White LED low: 35 mA

Those numbers for the main LED bother me... 165 mA * 6 V = 0.99 watts. Aren't the XR-Es supposed to handle 3 watts? With a big heat sink like that, you would think they would push the emitter a little harder. Using the scientific approach of waving the lamp around while it's on, I've noticed the main LED is pulse width modulated in both low and high modes, though the pulses are longer on high. Any thoughts?


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## degarb (May 13, 2009)

Could be a dead cell, or more likely, you have a China made meter. Radio Shack perhaps. If the meter introduces ohms, you get lower readings. Jumper and get others to verify.


I swapped my RS meter for a new one, but new one still give me low current readings.


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## bobski (May 14, 2009)

degarb said:


> Could be a dead cell


I was running the light on a bench power supply set to 6 V while testing.



degarb said:


> or more likely, you have a China made meter. [...] I swapped my RS meter for a new one, but new one still give me low current readings.


Yeah, it's an Extech meter I got at radio shack, but I actually thought of that already, and used the power supply with a 1K resistor (measured to 998 ohms) to verify the calibration. The meter is accurate within 0.8%


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## degarb (Aug 24, 2009)

bobski said:


> After reading a thread discussing idle (all lights off) power drain in lights with electronic switches, I decided to take some tail cap style measurements.
> 
> Idle: just under 3 µA
> Front red LEDs on solid: 80 mA
> ...




I picked one up over the weekend. Current draw off new cells (1.5 and 1.2 volt) is perhaps the most critical specification, as it determines the ability of the light to do the task.

I measured 600 milliamps off tail on high and like 130 milliamps on low. This would be 3.6 watts on high, with controller sucking up any excess. This would mean 3 to 4 hours on high of good light and about 18 on low. The 18 hours on low didn't seem right to me. So, I determined to try again this after noon and got a mere 400 milliamps on high / 90 milliamps on low then nothing. Heck, now the light don't work. I must have broken a spring by pressing the battery down to make contact. Now, off to dig up the reciept.


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## degarb (Aug 25, 2009)

Those numbers were off NiMH 1.2 volt batteries. Last night, off fairly fresh 1.5 alkaline batteries, I was reading only 300 milli-amps on high. But after many readings with my meter, the numbers that keeps popping up is 120 milli's on low and 570 is on high--which would square exactly with package of 24 hours on low and 4 hours on high.

The lowest number with one dud AA was in low 100s on high and lowest number with good cells read 300 on high. I would think with a regulated light the numbers would be more constant.

I think I read conflicting reports on runtime: from 2 to 4 hours on high; and, 7-24 on low. But (have not tested myself yet) package runtime seems likely. 

The low competes well with my lux I's. At .5 watt on low and 85 lumen per watt, I am guessing .8 efficiency of controller and lens= 85*.5*.8= 35 lumens for 24 hours, minus any time given to high mode. My Garrity has %75 mode and %50 which allows 10-12 hours of good light with manual management, during a workday. I conclude this light blows the Coleman 105 head lamp away, which I hate. Compared to Lux I Garrity, not a total break through, I does have kick butt runtime and great high mode. I still wish it had a 10 hour mode, which would be twice as bright as the low mode, with current draw of 240 milliamps.

Right now, I am using it primarily on low, with high only when needed. If I thought it could get 7 hours on high, I would primarily run on high, amping down only when not needed much.


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## degarb (Aug 27, 2009)

I want option of belt battery or 4AA, with least risk of screwing up this light. Anyone can point me to a thread to show someone modifying this type of light with a trailer hitch with all tips on how to do this the best way.

Don't laugh, but here is my crude plan: Was thinking of taking 4 lithiums, draining them dead, gluing together, stripping insulation from two outer AAs, soldering it into a conductive piece from positive to negative, drilling a hole , inserting a wire, soldering and gluing it. Then attaching alligators clips and cord to a toolbelt UB650 or UB670. All this to avoid screwing up the cord going to current battery pack.


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## bobski (Aug 27, 2009)

degarb said:


> All this to avoid screwing up the cord going to current battery pack.


The pack disassembles fairly easily. The corded end cap pops off by carefully prying the ends away from the tabs in the main body. It's very much like the battery access end but with no twist-to-remove provisions.
Once the cap is off, you can fully disassemble it by removing two easily accessible screws. You'll find a circuit board with the battery springs, tail light push button switch and the tail light LED itself - no real electronics to speak of. The cable to the main lamp consists of four conductors: white and black being battery positive and negative, and green and blue being switch signal (grounded when active) and LED cathode, respectively.

Even if you don't want to mess with the circuit board, it should be a simple matter to solder wires to the end springs and run them through a hole in the case. Done properly, you could retain the ability to use regular AAs as well.


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## degarb (Aug 27, 2009)

Is there a trick to soldering directly to positive without melting plastic?


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## bobski (Aug 27, 2009)

You could use a clip-on heat sink (commonly found in soldering tool kits), or put a wet sponge on the rivet that holds the plastic bit to the spring.


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## degarb (Aug 29, 2009)

D a r n near destroyed the light on this one. I made the mistake of trying wires that were too thick and soldering on. About permanently bent the springs, and soldering is dangerous on springs: I have had limited success in not melting plastic.

I did a thinner wire (still hard to shut case because spring compress less), and hooked up to the UB650, which is 6 volts/4.5 Amp-Hour ( I trust same voltage as 4 alkaline AA's). I am getting meter reading of 820 milliamps on High and 176 on Low (compared with AA typical 570/120). Can the heat sink support such high current?

My second question is: I can I add a variable pot in series with a controller, since 820 milli's will kill runtime off a 4-7 amp hour battery kinda defeats half the purpose running high for 10 hours.


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## degarb (Aug 29, 2009)

I tried running 4 AA (1.25 volt rated and 1.45 off charger) in pack and parallel 6 volt UB640. I was thinking this configuration would suck less current from the external 6 volt. Oddly, conversely, the meter-connected from 6 volt into pack-read about double the 820 milliamp on high. 

Would the AA's eventually charge to 1.5 volt and current drop? Would this hurt the batteries?


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## degarb (Aug 29, 2009)

degarb said:


> My second question is: I can I add a variable pot in series with a controller, since 820 milli's will kill runtime off a 4-7 amp hour battery kinda defeats half the purpose running high for 10 hours.



I dug up a Radio Shack 25 ohm variable pot, and added it in series with 6 volt external battery. Now, she rocks. I can lower it to 17 milli's, which is brighter than many lights that use 350, and fine for map reading. 

Playing with the pot, I have formed some opinions and bias concerning ideal tail cap drive levels for this light (6 volt mind you). I think ideally the high target should be 600 millis for high on burst mode (since head gets too hot and runtime too short; I doubt if no damage is being done for long periods. Also, not enough light is gained over 400 drive level), 400 for regular high, 200 for arms length detail work, 100 for house hold work, and 30 milliamps for reading. This would be 600/400/200/100/30 or 5 levels. Which would irritate some bicyclers. So not sure the ideal compromise, other than a rheostat pot + current controller. Down side is you really need to train your self on feel of adjusting a pot with a multimeter, before you understand the feel and trade-offs.


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## degarb (Sep 1, 2009)

The simple design was revealed to me as I awoke the other morning: I could a easily two cell rcr123 holder by making a removable holder out of old credit card, elastic, velcro, and any shapeable conductive metal to touch battery ends--affixing velcro to side of each velcro and tension by elastic. Since I already have the alligator leads coming out of pack, all I would need to do is to add velcro somewhere on current AA pack for a detachable 2 cell lion pack, which would be a light alternative fuel for jogging or getting wife to use the unit. That is, if I jogged or had a wife. Just kidding, one of the two applies to me, and readily swapped for other.

Because the battery pack mod is so easy (with thin wire/I had to hot glue back side of lid back on after mod), this makes this light a cool three fuel option light.


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## Marduke (Sep 1, 2009)

But why? 2xRCR123 has way less energy than 4xAA


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## degarb (Sep 1, 2009)

Marduke said:


> But why? 2xRCR123 has way less energy than 4xAA



To recap, I am pointing out the strength of the 4 AA design, in that, while a great all round format, it is easy to add two wire coming out (pop end off with knife, drill holes, wrapped around spring, add alligator clips or harness) for a cheap belt pack http://www.batteriesasap.com/universal.html (I recommend variable pot. $4 at 400 milliamp drive) or cheap dx 123 and charger. The cheap agm route of batteriesasap offers easy charging of several batteries at one time and full power or near full for 10 to 20 hours or a low powered reading light for hundreds of hours. While if you jog or have a woman that hates heavy things on the head, the 4AA route isn't as good as the 123 route which would offer up to 5 hours on low, or more with a $4 pot on sub low for camping or reading. 

The 4 AA is the perfect voltage, better run time than 3 AA. A nice 4 hours on high and 20 on low-- possibly 8 with management. The format fits easily in a bag or briefcase. It is my favorite default format. It is especially so, if I can easily modify. Still, the unreliability of AA's, and the fact the brightness, runtime, and ease of charging several packs at once, is far superior using the agm route.

In fact, because Remington doesn't use a constant current controller, I can get the milliamps I prefer, with my prefered 5 levels. This is not likely not the case with the upcoming Fenix, for which we are all drooling. Likely if I put a pot inline with the Fenix controller, it wont run.


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## Photon_Whisperer (Dec 1, 2009)

Anybody know other stores that carry these? Went to 3 different lowes with no luck. Need it for an upcoming trip and can't buy online


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## kevinm (Dec 1, 2009)

Posting where you live might help.:twothumbs


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## Photon_Whisperer (Dec 1, 2009)

Ah sorry, San Antonio TX


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## tnuckels (Dec 3, 2009)

```

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Batteries Plus + has them in my neck of the woods and it appears that there are at least 3 stores in YOURS. Overpriced, but if they carry them having it in your hands right now is certainely worth something.

Good Luck!


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## Photon_Whisperer (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks! I went by to look at it, but $60 was crazy. Cool store though. I decided to just order one from Batteryjunction and just use my 1AA version until the next trip.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 4, 2009)

You can call a specific lowes that you know has these in stock and have them ship one to you (I've done this with another flashlight in the past). I think they charge $5.99 for shipping, so it would be under $50 after shipping and tax.


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## tnuckels (Dec 5, 2009)

Photon_Whisperer said:


> but $60 was crazy


Like I said $$$ … It’s a nice enough light, but only to a point and only to a price.




Photon_Whisperer said:


> Cool store though


Yeah. Though the emphasis is not the same, it has the feel of an old Radio Shack, back when more of the staff knew their stuff and RS was more about bits and pieces for hobbyists. 




Photon_Whisperer said:


> I decided to just order one from Batteryjunction and just use my 1AA version until the next trip


Good choice. Not the absolute lowest price but close and a trusted seller, it’s where I bought my three. The main beam is a bit narrow but its reach is therefore impressive. It’s a suitable big brother to the 1xAA Sportsman it sounds like you’re using now.

Enjoy!


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## Photon_Whisperer (Dec 5, 2009)

tnuckels said:


> Not the absolute lowest price but close and a trusted seller, it’s where I bought my three.



Where would the lowest price have been? I used their Cyber2009 coupon code which still works.


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## tnuckels (Dec 6, 2009)

$37.66 at Alexandria General Supply – though shipping is a bit high, they are of unknown trustworthiness :shrug:
. 
$36.43 at Cheaper Than Dirt – I think this might be a new product for them to carry, they are a trusted seller :twothumbs

I always seem to forget to use the coupons available to CPFers. My loss. Perhaps BJ is the lowest with a coupon and their reasonable shipping costs.


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## degarb (May 8, 2010)

Just bought 4 at twelve dollars each from Lowes. Close out.

Now, I was thinking of hacking battery pack off one and wiring it to another, then gluing head to top of the other. This would get me 300 lumens on high, and not sure how many on low.

Does anyone remember how to tell, of the for wires in cable, which are which?


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## bobski (May 8, 2010)

Take apart the battery compartment and look.


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## degarb (May 9, 2010)

I will try open case, but doubt that alone will show which colored wire is going to which side. I am hoping color coded. At least I can cut cord then and use resistance meter to tell then which color is connected to which. If no color, I guess I will need to be more careful-- cut insulation, and color the wires myself and then cut.

Does anyone know what will be replacing the lamp? I am guessing the manager knows something big will be replacing it, else just an idiot. And, anyone see these discounted other places yet.


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## bobski (May 9, 2010)

Circuit boards aren't some mysterious black box (well, at least single-layer ones like this aren't). PCB traces are just etched wires with a board for physical support. Pick a wire and follow where its traces go. I seem to recall it being something like battery positive, battery negative, battery case switch positive (with negative going to the battery) and battery case led positive (with negative going to the battery). Don't quote me on that as it's been a while since I looked, and I didn't take notes.


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## nokturnal (Aug 8, 2010)

*Remington High-Powered LED Headlight*

*$14.99*



+ $5 shipping
 Condition:New
Product: 1 Remington RMHL4AA-B 3 watt/150 Lumen LED Headlight w/ Night Vision & Emergency Alert Modes 

today at woot.com

saw it on woot then found this thread..


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## Wattnot (Aug 8, 2010)

nokturnal said:


> saw it on woot then found this thread..


 
That's funny. I just did the very same thing!

But I'm still wondering if it's even worth the twenty bucks after reading this stuff!


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## FlashPilot (Aug 8, 2010)

Did anyone go for the woot deal? Id bite but this light appears to be far to under driven.


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## Painkiller1009 (Aug 9, 2010)

I ordered it from woot.
I already have a nice headlamp but I will try this one out and see what I think of it.


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## JCup (Aug 22, 2010)

*Re: Remington RMHL4AA-B closing out?*

Woot had this for $15, and I bit for three of them. After several days trial, I am very pleased. Well constructed. Uses a TIR for the main beam, good throw and with the diffuser, still a useful task light on lower setting.

I think they have a simple regulator that depends on PWM for both high and low settings, but the result is that you can use alkaline batteries and still have good runtime. 

I agree with others that lumens are overstated, but the beam will reach out to about 50 yards on high. 

Buy.com has this at the moment for $20 shipped. Great value, batteries included!

p.s you may spend a few minutes figuring out how to attach the straps. Take a look at the photos here, no instructions at all in the "Remington" package.


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## Stretch Hardware (Sep 14, 2010)

I have about 15 different headlamps I have accumulated over the years. IMHO this is a $100 headlamp. Well constructed, Good switches, AA's for long battery life, bright. Bought 1 of them at Buy.com, got it in two days and after trying it out bought another 10 for back up and Christmas presents.


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