# Zebralight SC32d // SC62d



## asot (Aug 15, 2013)

Has anybody else noticed these two new models 
(apart for the SC32 that is already announced) in the famous Zebra spreadsheet, 
with* Philips LUXEON T* model LED, *CRI 85*, planned for 2013???


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## markr6 (Aug 15, 2013)

Yes it was mentioned in the [rather old] ZebraLight SC62 thread. Hard to keep all these new ZL's straight! I'm really looking forward to this one. Not only for the great tint, but the sleek design.


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## shelm (Aug 15, 2013)

sc62d, 
is it bright?


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## markr6 (Aug 15, 2013)

shelm said:


> sc62d,
> is it bright?



Blanks in the spreadsheet, but I'm betting on "YES"!


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## tonkem (Aug 15, 2013)

Let's hope they also release the SC32 at the same time for us "cool white" folks


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## Theron (Aug 23, 2013)

markr6 said:


> Blanks in the spreadsheet, but I'm betting on "YES"!



Hope it has PID, too.


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## Glock27 (Aug 25, 2013)

I'm looking forward to the SC62! I think the SC60 is the best production single 18650 light there is to date. I've been EDCing one for 960 days. I never shut the light off, leaving it on at least L2. 23,000Hours on that LED. I use it everyday for both work and play.

G27


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## oeL (Aug 26, 2013)

asot said:


> ... with* Philips LUXEON T* model LED, *CRI 85*, planned for 2013???



http://www.philipslumileds.com/products/luxeon-t

288 LED lumen at 1A, something below 250 OTF lumen. OK, nice color rendering anyway...


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## Theron (Aug 26, 2013)

Seems like something that would pair nicely with 14500s.


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## Glock27 (Aug 28, 2013)

Ticket status: Completed

Department: Sales

Subject: SC62

next month.

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 29, 2013)

Glock27 said:


> Ticket status: Completed
> 
> Department: Sales
> 
> ...



Thank You for the update


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## sam7 (Oct 18, 2013)

*Re: CRI scale*

Is the CRI scale perceived in a linear way? For instance, I'm looking at these three lights: SC600-II-L2 1100 lumens 65 CRI; SC600w-II-L2 1028 lumens 75 CRI; SC62d ? lumens 85 CRI. If linear, then the SC62d would have about 13% better color rendering than the SC600w-II-L2 (but way less lumens), correct? How noticeable of an improvement would this be? Worth giving up the lumens, all else being equal?


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## Rexlion (Oct 18, 2013)

*Re: CRI scale*

SC32, sounds like a 16340 light perhaps?


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## bltkmt (Oct 24, 2013)

*Re: CRI scale*

SC32 should be a CR123 light like its predecessor SC30. WHEN ARE THESE COMING OUT??? Their release policy is so frustrating...


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## KITROBASKIN (Oct 24, 2013)

Chatted with Illumination supply just now. They got nothin' regarding SC62 other than what's on the Zebralight spreadsheet. (Typical of Zebralight) Maybe we'll hear something by end of month (snicker snicker)


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## KITROBASKIN (Oct 24, 2013)

It is coming up on 8:00 pm mountain time, USA. About 20 minutes ago I got a response from an email to Zebralight, sent shortly after writing the previous post.

Ticket status: Completed

Department: Sales

Subject: Zebralight and the SC62 forthcoming

Thanks for your comments.
We'll release the specs amd photos for the SC62d next week. The 'd' version will be the only model right now. There will be SC62c, and xp-g2 based SC62g and SC62gw next year. No plans for any XM-L2 based SC62/SC62w.

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038

This is similar to previous information regarding the variations. NEXT WEEK for specs! I believe them.


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## siginu (Nov 1, 2013)

They're running out of week.


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## KITROBASKIN (Nov 1, 2013)

siginu said:


> They're running out of week.



Truly


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## markr6 (Nov 1, 2013)

I wish they would just overshoot their estimates by several months!!


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## blackFFM (Nov 1, 2013)

KITROBASKIN said:


> There will be SC62c, and xp-g2 based SC62g and SC62gw next year. No plans for any XM-L2 based SC62/SC62w.



What's the sc62c?


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## siginu (Nov 1, 2013)

Zebraspeak for high CRI light, usually 4000K @ 85 CRI. I'd like one as well, and while we're at it I'd like it in the new 600 MKII as well.


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## juplin (Nov 3, 2013)

Initial release has been postponed to 11/2013 in ZL's spreadsheet.


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## siginu (Nov 21, 2013)

Time to renew the countdown?

Really looking forward to this one.


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## siginu (Dec 6, 2013)

New entry into dictionary;
anticlimactic - Zebralight release dates.


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## tonkem (Dec 6, 2013)

Would be nice if they were like apple and did not give any hint of new products, then just announce and release immediately after announcing. with shipping.... would make life easier...


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## KITROBASKIN (Dec 6, 2013)

I emailed ZL Monday(?) and have not received a response. Usually they do within a few days.

This could mean they are close to releasing specs or... They are busy. I did direct the question to sales. Just got an H600w L2. It is incandescent in tint, but colors render pretty good. Still curious about an SC62d.


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## KITROBASKIN (Dec 7, 2013)

OK, Got this Saturday night:

Ticket status: Completed


Department: Sales


Subject: SC62d


Nothing wrong with the SC62d. We just having a hard time fill the orders for the current models.


Sincerely,


ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038


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## KQL (Dec 7, 2013)

Would love to get the sc62d. I've been on the fence about the H502d as I do love the higher CRI emitters. If more experienced folks were to guess at a realistic release date given the current info, when might that be?


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## tonkem (Dec 7, 2013)

Probably February release would be my guess. But could be later with zebralight history.


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## juplin (Dec 14, 2013)

Zebralight should hurry up. Otherwise, will go for Spark.


> SF3-HC, Philips Luxeon T HCRI Led, 90 CRI, 3000K
> 220 lumens / 0.8 hours
> 110 lumens / 1.8 hours
> 35 lm / 6 hours
> ...



http://translate.google.com/transla...ttp://www.shoudian.org/thread-367008-1-1.html


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## KITROBASKIN (Dec 14, 2013)

OK, so one is a 123 battery and the other a 14500 or AA. No 18650 torch and how do you get one of them. Models you cited do not appear on Spark website, or going gear, or sbflashlights, best I can tell.


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## juplin (Dec 15, 2013)

This is where you can buy Spark SF3 or SF5 CW/NW/HC :

http://translate.googleusercontent....294672&usg=ALkJrhiCiJ_WpU0OjwYiT9ozmfcVUfQ2ww

http://translate.googleusercontent....930086&usg=ALkJrhgwY8KLYBefyumlMGW1NIeNT5uz2w


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## siginu (Dec 15, 2013)

Another option may end up being Armytek Smart C2i XM-L2 if it gets released first, it may not have firefly mode though, and I'd rather have a Philips LED. On the plus side it will likely be actually waterproof, and I prefer the 4000K to the 5000K that Zebralight is specifying. 

In the end I'd just like an 18650 pocket carry light that has good CRI, decent throw/flood mix beam, and can handle a little water every now and again.


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## KITROBASKIN (Dec 15, 2013)

siginu said:


> In the end I'd just like an 18650 pocket carry light that has good CRI, decent throw/flood mix beam, and can handle a little water every now and again.



Hear hear!


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## KITROBASKIN (Dec 15, 2013)

Oh, and a good user interface and a switch that is resistant to being turned on unintentionally yet is quick to access, lightweight and durable.

Edit: yes absolutely, needs low,low mode like you said in the next post, siginu


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## siginu (Dec 15, 2013)

Agreed, and I forgot - needs firefly as well!


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## siginu (Dec 26, 2013)

Well, Armytek has a CAD drawing up for the Smart C2i XM-L2 ... looks like I'll be waiting on the SC62d. (yep, it looks that bad)


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## neutralwhite (Dec 30, 2013)

Ticket status: Completed

Department: Customer Service

Subject: LUXEON NICHIA

We will release the SC62d next week. We have looked at the Nichia 219 for years, but decided not to use it for the time being.


Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038


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## neutralwhite (Dec 30, 2013)

do you think that the sc62d can be a good back up to my sc600mkII L2 considering it's also an 18650?.
good enough to put on a neck Lanyard, or too BIG / heavy?.

:thumbsup:
thank you...


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## Etsu (Dec 30, 2013)

neutralwhite said:


> We have looked at the Nichia 219 for years, but decided not to use it for the time being.



Too bad, I wonder if that's because ZL concentrates more on XML formats than XPG? A 219 would be a simple replacement for an XPG.


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## raltm (Dec 30, 2013)

Nichia 219 = Philips LUXEON T ?
if not, maybe early to upset


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## Ryp (Dec 30, 2013)

Wow, this is going to be a really small 18650 light, if not the smallest.


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## neutralwhite (Dec 30, 2013)

yes, that's why I want to kinda Lanyard carry it, maybe. if not, will find some place. 


Ryp said:


> Wow, this is going to be a really small 18650 light, if not the smallest.


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## neutralwhite (Dec 30, 2013)

would this fit the sc62d ?. thanks lots!.......

http://illuminationsupply.com/batteries-c-48_50/18650-keeppower-3400mah-panasonic-ncr18650b-protected-button-top-p-828.html#.UsHXFvRdW8A


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## KQL (Dec 30, 2013)

raltm said:


> Nichia 219 = Philips LUXEON T ?
> if not, maybe early to upset



I have the h502d with the Philips LUXEON Rebel Neutral White LED (Typical CRI: 85, Norminal CCT 5000K) and two Nichia 219 lights. In the current iteration, the light from the Philips emitter is nowhere near the quality of the Nichia light. To my eye, the Philips is just marginally better at color rendering compared to my XM-L U2 lights, the Nichia is a lot better. In fact I'm going to part with the h502d once I get my hands on the H600w mk2.


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## neutralwhite (Dec 30, 2013)

thanks, makes me wonder why ZL went for the Luxeon...
still, its a HCRI light..




KQL said:


> I have the h502d with the Philips LUXEON Rebel Neutral White LED (Typical CRI: 85, Norminal CCT 5000K) and two Nichia 219 lights. In the current iteration, the light from the Philips emitter is nowhere near the quality of the Nichia light. To my eye, the Philips is just marginally better at color rendering compared to my XM-L U2 lights, the Nichia is a lot better. In fact I'm going to part with the h502d once I get my hands on the H600w mk2.


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## markr6 (Dec 30, 2013)

neutralwhite said:


> thanks, makes me wonder why ZL went for the Luxeon...
> still, its a HCRI light..



I was told "supply issues". Seems unreasonable though. What, is Nicha too busy to get new sales? LOL I actually used to work for a company where the head of sales said that all the time.


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## neutralwhite (Dec 30, 2013)

hmmmmm,....is Luxeon maybe cheaper than Nichia?. with all this Nichia talk, surely ZL should of caught on, unless they know something better...Luxeon.



markr6 said:


> I was told "supply issues". Seems unreasonable though. What, is Nicha too busy to get new sales? LOL I actually used to work for a company where the head of sales said that all the time.


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## KQL (Dec 30, 2013)

It could be supply issues. When I spoke to Illumination Gear about their upcoming Eagletac D25LC2 with the Nichia 219/B11, they did cite delays due to shortage of the Nichia emitter. In my case, I went with the lower power H502d for the higher CRI, but having seen it, I'd rather opt for the longer reach/higher output of the H600w mk2. Getting too far off topic though.


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## siginu (Dec 30, 2013)

The 219 has a decided disadvantage in its thermal resistance IIRC it's like 7 C/W whereas the Luxeon T is 3 C/W. ZL loves to push things right up to the thermal limits and the T is much better in that regard. I would like to see ZL use a warmer LED in the T series, there is almost no lumen penalty dropping to the 4000K which they'll probably use on the SC62C later on. I am curious to see if they'll do over driving with PID limiting.


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## neutralwhite (Dec 31, 2013)

interesting,..thanks.



siginu said:


> The 219 has a decided disadvantage in its thermal resistance IIRC it's like 7 C/W whereas the Luxeon T is 3 C/W. ZL loves to push things right up to the thermal limits and the T is much better in that regard. I would like to see ZL use a warmer LED in the T series, there is almost no lumen penalty dropping to the 4000K which they'll probably use on the SC62C later on. I am curious to see if they'll do over driving with PID limiting.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 1, 2014)

Ticket status: Completed

Department: Customer Service

Subject: UI 

SC62d will have the same updated UI as SC600 MKII XM-L2, but no PID.

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 1, 2014)

No PID? Does that mean it won't be driven so hard and not putting out so much heat? Or What?


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## neutralwhite (Jan 1, 2014)

as far as I know, a while back ZL said it would possibly hit 230 OTF, so not driven really hard, and much less heat.



KITROBASKIN said:


> No PID? Does that mean it won't be driven so hard and not putting out so much heat? Or What?


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## 18650 (Jan 1, 2014)

neutralwhite said:


> as far as I know, a while back ZL said it would possibly hit 230 OTF, so not driven really hard, and much less heat.


 That sounds like a Luxeon T @ 1000mA.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 1, 2014)

+1. yes, 1A im sure. 
thanks. 



18650 said:


> That sounds like a Luxeon T @ 1000mA.


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## phantom23 (Jan 1, 2014)

It's been a few months and Luxeon T is already obsolete because there's new Luxeon XT which is almost the same except higher efficiency.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 1, 2014)

damn, maybe they might stick that in ?.

doubt it, as it's to be released in some week or so.
hmmmm...




phantom23 said:


> It's been a few months and Luxeon T is already obsolete because there's new Luxeon XT which is almost the same except higher efficiency.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 1, 2014)

It would be nice if one reason for the delay of the SC62d is because of the more efficient emitter being introduced. Maybe ZL wants to surprise the industry and us; a reason why the product data page was not updated? Wishful thinking maybe? ZL releasing the SC62d next week: wishful thinking as well?


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## neutralwhite (Jan 2, 2014)

BIG Maybe,...would be good if they could keep up with that newer emitter as its they say more efficient and that's what im looking for...




KITROBASKIN said:


> It would be nice if one reason for the delay of the SC62d is because of the more efficient emitter being introduced. Maybe ZL wants to surprise the industry and us; a reason why the product data page was not updated? Wishful thinking maybe? ZL releasing the SC62d next week: wishful thinking as well?


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## markr6 (Jan 2, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> It would be nice if one reason for the delay of the SC62d is because of the more efficient emitter being introduced. Maybe ZL wants to surprise the industry and us...



They're busy working on the Q50!


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## tonkem (Jan 2, 2014)

markr6 said:


> They're busy working on the Q50!



Inside information or wild guess?


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## Brasso (Jan 2, 2014)

I wish they hadn't given up on the T5.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 2, 2014)

markr6 said:


> They're busy working on the Q50!


 What, on God's Green Earth, is a Q50?


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## justanotherguy (Jan 2, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> What, on God's Green Earth, is a Q50?



https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=nw#hl=en&q=zebralight+q50


You're welcome. :nana:


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## neutralwhite (Jan 2, 2014)

reminds me of that Xeno Cube light.
weird, but it's ZL so wow!.




justanotherguy said:


> https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=nw#hl=en&q=zebralight+q50
> 
> 
> You're welcome. :nana:


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 2, 2014)

justanotherguy said:


> https://www.google.com/webhp?hl=en&tab=nw#hl=en&q=zebralight+q50
> 
> 
> You're welcome. :nana:



Funny. Thanks, but I was hoping it was the latest LED that is so bright, so beautiful and so efficient it would solve the worlds energy needs into the next millennium.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 2, 2014)

same!,..one day,...when we're not around I think...lol..



KITROBASKIN said:


> Funny. Thanks, but I was hoping it was the latest LED that is so bright, so beautiful and so efficient it would solve the worlds energy needs into the next millennium.


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## tonkem (Jan 2, 2014)

Here is a pic next to the sc600. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ht-4-AA-Q50!&p=3746258&viewfull=1#post3746258

It may never be released...


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## neutralwhite (Jan 3, 2014)

luxeon T led

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5h2cUFM8xo


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## neutralwhite (Jan 4, 2014)

do you think this sc62d could be a back up to a sc600mkII L2?.
thanks everyone.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 5, 2014)

Ticket status: Completed

Department: Customer Service

Subject: New Luxeon XT ...

The XT is not available in production quantity yet. From specs and with the samples we've tested, not much difference between the XT and T.

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 5, 2014)

neutralwhite said:


> do you think this sc62d could be a back up to a sc600mkII L2?.
> thanks everyone.



Thanks for getting ZL's response re: Luxeon XT

When you ask about a back up for an SC600 L2, what are you looking for? The SC62d is just a little lighter and uses the same size battery with less lumens, but it seems you should state what you want in a back up light. I mean, that fellow on the SC600 thread said he got 2 SC600's. That to me is a back up. Or you could go a lot smaller to cut down on weight, losing considerable output, (Unless you want to wait for the MBI Zeus, which in that case would be much less runtime)


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## neutralwhite (Jan 6, 2014)

hi much thanks, as a back up, it would be really used for indoors when there is some power cut really, and will use that as a back up edc on me in case my sc600mkII L2 dies.

also just wanted to know that this sc62d is like 230L max, so how long would this run on high compared to the sc600w?. even on medium?. as the sc62d is 230 max lumens running on an 18650, that would last longer than say the sc600mkII w L2 - on 200 lumens right?, or same?.
trying to get runtime figures on both these models. 


thanks.




KITROBASKIN said:


> Thanks for getting ZL's response re: Luxeon XT
> 
> When you ask about a back up for an SC600 L2, what are you looking for? The SC62d is just a little lighter and uses the same size battery with less lumens, but it seems you should state what you want in a back up light. I mean, that fellow on the SC600 thread said he got 2 SC600's. That to me is a back up. Or you could go a lot smaller to cut down on weight, losing considerable output, (Unless you want to wait for the MBI Zeus, which in that case would be much less runtime)


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## phantom23 (Jan 6, 2014)

neutralwhite said:


> also just wanted to know that this sc62d is like 230L max, so how long would this run on high compared to the sc600w?. even on medium?.* as the sc62d is 230 max lumens running on an 18650, that would last longer than say the sc600mkII w L2 - on 200 lumens right?, or same?.*


SC600 would last definitely longer - less light (from more efficient emitter)=less current=longer runtime with the same battery.


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## Brasso (Jan 6, 2014)

Depends on how hard they drive the led. If they use the same current levels the run time will be the same, just slightly less output at the selective levels.


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## tonkem (Jan 6, 2014)

Emailed Zebralight about some of the outstanding models including the SC32 and Q50 and here is there response: Ticket status: Completed

Department: Customer Service


Subject: S5310, Q50, updated 6330 and Sc32


Sorry about the late reply. 
The Q50 production consumes too much precious machining time that we decided to keep it in the back burner for the time being. I don't know about the S5310, but I do know that we discontinued the S6330 and will release a new version of the S6330 later this year. The S32 will be released soon. 


Sincerely,


ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038


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## neutralwhite (Jan 6, 2014)

thanks, so the sc600w would be more efficient than the new sc62d?.
thanks again...


phantom23 said:


> SC600 would last definitely longer - less light (from more efficient emitter)=less current=longer runtime with the same battery.


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## phantom23 (Jan 6, 2014)

SC62d with 230 lumens won't have longer runtime than SC600w on 200lm mode.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 6, 2014)

thanks , any idea of the possible difference ?.

thanks. 




phantom23 said:


> SC62d with 230 lumens won't have longer runtime than SC600w on 200lm mode.


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## neutralwhite (Jan 6, 2014)

anyone know the head diameter of this sc62d please?.
same as sc600mkII ? 

thanks.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 7, 2014)

I have removed four posts due to flaming, baiting, and mention of banning, which is not a topic of discussion. Please see this. Further abuses of Rule 4, or any disagreement with the mods action, except by PM's, (Rule 8) will result in further action. Let's keep it appropriate folks, attack the post, not the poster.

Bill


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## marinemaster (Jan 7, 2014)

So is it suppose to be available this week or next week ?


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## tonkem (Jan 7, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> So is it suppose to be available this week or next week ?



Unlikely. I would say early February. If I had to guess.


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## Swede74 (Jan 9, 2014)

Specs up for SC62d!

http://www.zebralight.com/SC62d-High-CRI-Daylight-tint-18650-Flashlight_p_135.html


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## blo9 (Jan 9, 2014)

LED: Philips LUXEON T (Typical CRI: 85, Norminal CCT 5000K)
User Selectable Levels: 3 main levels (High, Medium and Low). Each main level can be programmed to one of its two sub-levels. The second sub-level of the each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels.
Light Output (runtimes)
High: H1 *320* Lm (3 hr) or H2 *145* Lm (9 hrs) / *66* Lm (23 hrs)
Medium: M1 *36* Lm (45 hrs) or M2 *17 *Lm (4 days) / *6.6* Lm (11 days)
Low: L1 *1.9 *Lm (34 days) or L2 *0.44* Lm (2.3 months) / *0.07 *Lm (4.2 months) / *0.01 *Lm (5.1 months)
Beacon Strobe Mode: 0.2Hz Beacon at Low / 0.2Hz Beacon at H1 / 4Hz Strobe at H1 / 19Hz Strobe at H1 

Light output are ANSI out the front (OTF) values. Runtimes tested (and parasitic drain estimated) using ZL634 batteries.

Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 4.2V
Battery: One 18650 size (up to 69mm long) 3.6/3.7V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package.
Parasitic Drain: Negligible (much less than the self discharging of a battery)
Beam Type
80 degree spill
10 degree hot spot

Dimensions
Head Diameter: *0.96 *inch (24.4 mm)
Length: *3.8 *inch (96.5 mm)

Weight
*1.4 *oz (40 gram)


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## neutralwhite (Jan 9, 2014)

are there any dealers to pre order from too already?.
thanks.


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## gollum (Jan 9, 2014)

just pre ordered mine
so glad i didn't miss this one 
the old SC60 is still the best all round edc I have ever had and i still use it every day
even though i own lots of other Zebralights and quite a few latest release lights like the 
Nitecore srt 3 and 5 (great lights BTW)
I still use the old SC60 even though it has a noisy pwm I can forgive


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## Brasso (Jan 9, 2014)

Thanks for the heads up. Just pre-ordered it.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 9, 2014)

Is it the same SC clip?

The description for stepdown just says it goes down. Does it just lower intensity with battery voltage drop?


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## Overclocker (Jan 9, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Is it the same SC clip?
> 
> The description for stepdown just says it goes down. Does it just lower intensity with battery voltage drop?




seems like the same sc52 clip

doesn't seem to have stepdown. 320 lumens could certainly be handled by a host of this size


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## markr6 (Jan 9, 2014)

In my cart and ready to order, but can't decide on this one. Actually, I'm afraid all my other ZL lights will sit idle because this SC62 will make their tints look horrible! May sound dumb to some people, but I know that will happen.

Also, I don't find myself using my SC600w II very often, so I may sell it anyway. Hmmm....

Oh what the hell, just ordered it. Too curious about this Luxeon T emitter!


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## Overclocker (Jan 9, 2014)

IMO they should've just added a LuxeonT variant to the SC52 lineup

18650 is just overkill for the measly 320 lumens and the excessive runtime bears this out. though i really liked my SC60 this is just not size efficient anymore in 2014

but if this were 16650 / 2x CR123A i'd be all over it. what zebralight NEEDS to put out is a 2x CR123A flashlight. if i'm packing for a long trip away from the grid i'd rather have 10 pairs of CR123A than ten 18650's (cheaper too)


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## Brasso (Jan 9, 2014)

> 18650 is just overkill for the measly 320 lumens and the excessive runtime bears this out.



Potatoes....Pototoes...

Exactly why I want it.


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## Etsu (Jan 9, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> IMO they should've just added a LuxeonT variant to the SC52 lineup



Agreed. But, maybe they're still going to do that.


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

Now just need the SC62 CW for us "cool white" folks. I am always excited when Zebralight releases a new light, even if it is not for me


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## moshow9 (Jan 9, 2014)

I wonder if Zebralight will add their own RCR123/16340 batteries with the upcoming release of the SC32, much like they did with their 14500 and 18650 offerings.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jan 9, 2014)

Hm. Think I'll have to pass on this one.

Seems rather large for just 320 lumens. And I don't need a light that goes 3 hours on max. Personally, I'd rather they used an XM-L2 neutral at 2.5 amps and then just had a stepdown after 2-5 minutes. This light would be so much cooler at 1,000 lumens.


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## Brasso (Jan 9, 2014)

Why? Why would you want a 1000 lumen light that only runs for a minute? Why? This cracks me up.


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## markr6 (Jan 9, 2014)

I'm giving it a shot primatily because of the tint. I don't get too caught up in the numbers game. For example, my PD32UEs go from 400 to 740 lumens...pretty much a waste of a mode if you ask me - hardly any difference there.

The tint, UI, physical size attracts me. If this ends up being more floody than throw, another bonus for me.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jan 9, 2014)

Brasso said:


> Why? Why would you want a 1000 lumen light that only runs for a minute? Why? This cracks me up.



1 minute is a little short. But it's not that bad on the SC52. On that light you can always run longer than a minute on turbo simply by turning it on and off to reset it after stepdown.

My pocket EDC is a modded 1xCR123 light running at 2.8 amps on IMR cells. Around 1000 lumens and no stepdown. But it only runs around 13 minutes on max before draining the battery, and heat is a significant issue. 

A light running on a 3400 mah 18650 at 2.5 amps should run over 1.5 hours before draining. That's plenty.

Given the excessive runtime listed for the SC62, it sounds like the Luxeon T was perhaps a poor choice of emitter for the light. They probably should have stuck with an XML-2 with less CRI, but 3x the output, and saved the Luxeon for 1xAA sized and 1xCR123 sized lights. Zebralight would also do well to be pickier when choosing their emitters and/or their lenses. Some zebralights have slightly ugly tints (such as my SC52w with its yellowish/greenish tint). But it's quite possible to find XML and XML2 neutral emitters with beautiful tints that look almost as good as Nichia 219s. Eagletac did it with their D25s and Spark did it with their SF3 and SL5 .... Zebralight should be able to too.


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

This type of light is not the norm, for sure. Most people, myself included, want the most power available even if it can only run for a few minutes. What is great about the zebralight UI is it allows you to exclude the top level if you so choose to do so  IE, 2400 lumen mode on the 6330, 1100 mode on the sc600, 500 lumen mode on the sc52, etc. All to their own. I have issue with my Lupines in that I cannot select the modes as easily as I can with the Zebralights, and at least until the TL2 was released, you always had to go thru Max output when cycling thru the modes. They have changed that to allow you to program which modes you want to come on with up to 4 different outputs you select. The only problem with that, is if you do not use the max output in your mode selection, then you have to reset the modes to include it in the off chance you need 4500 lumens  I still love zebralights and there interface and welcome this kind of light where the max output is not more than the battery and/or LED can run without either a thermal stepdown or a short runtime.


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

I am sure they will be releasing a SC62 with another emitter that is not a Daylight model, and we will see what they do with that 



Fireclaw18 said:


> 1 minute is a little short. But it's not that bad on the SC52. On that light you can always run longer than a minute on turbo simply by turning it on and off to reset it after stepdown.
> 
> My pocket EDC is a modded 1xCR123 light running at 2.8 amps on IMR cells. Around 1000 lumens and no stepdown. But it only runs around 13 minutes on max before draining the battery, and heat is a significant issue.
> 
> ...


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## Ares (Jan 9, 2014)

Welp, I preordered it. After the tint problems I had with the SC600w MkII, I kind of miss my old SC600w 1st gen (it was my father's Christmas present, which he loved). I've never had a high CRI light before, and I'm curious what it looks like. I'll never forget the eye-opener that was a neutral-white LED. I can only imagine what a high CRI looks like. Guess I'll see soon enough!


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 9, 2014)

I love my SC52W which was a life saver on a Disney trip a month ago, EDC/night light ceiling bounce duty for the kids. I am starting to look at this SC62D....


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

I tried the Hi CRI lights with the HDS HiCRI 100 a few years ago, it was not that bad, just not enough light to please me. So I sold it. I did purchase a Elzetta Bravo that has a much more natural looking (yellowish) light than all my other lights. I am living with that since it is a glove box light


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## Brasso (Jan 9, 2014)

I want it because it's very small and can run "forever" on a single battery. I don't need 1000 lumens for anything. In my life I have never needed 1000 lumens. And I doubt you could tell much of a difference between 320 and 1000 lumens anyway. It will look a little brighter, but it won't even look 30% brighter to the human eye, if that much. A light that put out 1000 lumens for only 15 minutes would IMO be less than useless for an edc light. It's why I don't use a AAA for an edc. The run time just doesn't cut it. Output is fine, but what if there's an emergency and you need light for a several hours? You're SOL.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 9, 2014)

Runtimes are impressive!! 

*◦High: H1 320 Lm (3 hr) or H2 145 Lm (9 hrs) / 66 Lm (23 hrs)
◦Medium: M1 36 Lm (45 hrs) or M2 17 Lm (4 days) / 6.6 Lm (11 days) 
◦Low: L1 1.9 Lm (34 days) or L2 0.44 Lm (2.3 months) / 0.07 Lm (4.2 months) / 0.01 Lm (5.1 months)*


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

Looks good, until you compare to the SC600 MKII L2: 



High: H1 *1100* Lm (PID, approx 2 hr) or H2 *670* Lm (PID, approx 2.5 hrs) / *356* Lm (3.9 hrs) / *162*Lm (11 hrs)
Medium: M1 *70* Lm (30 hrs) or M2 *32 *Lm (66 hrs) / *12* Lm (172 hrs)
Low: L1 *3.8 *Lm (16 days) or L2 *0.43* Lm (2.5 months) / *0.06 *Lm (4.6 months) / *0.01 *Lm (5.5 months)



PoliceScannerMan said:


> Runtimes are impressive!!
> 
> *◦High: H1 320 Lm (3 hr) or H2 145 Lm (9 hrs) / 66 Lm (23 hrs)
> ◦Medium: M1 36 Lm (45 hrs) or M2 17 Lm (4 days) / 6.6 Lm (11 days)
> ◦Low: L1 1.9 Lm (34 days) or L2 0.44 Lm (2.3 months) / 0.07 Lm (4.2 months) / 0.01 Lm (5.1 months)*


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 9, 2014)

You are exactly right tonkem, the XML2 is no doubt more efficient. I already own the SC600w MKII L2, the SC62d will be more likely to end up in my pocket on trips and nights out due to smaller size, where the 600 mainly sees house duty.


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

Better to have more lights than not enough of them. 



PoliceScannerMan said:


> You are exactly right tonkem, he XML2 is no doubt more efficient. I already own the SC600w MKII L2, the SC62d will be more likely to end up in my pocket on trips and nights out due to smaller size, where the 600 mainly sees house duty.


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## Brasso (Jan 9, 2014)

The xml is also floodier. Not a huge difference in the size reflectors these use, but the smaller die will have better throw.


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## Derek Dean (Jan 9, 2014)

I've been waiting for this one, and to be honest I'd kind of given up on it, so I'm happy to see they're going to follow through with it after all. I rarely pre-order, but I've made an exception for the SC62d. I do find it interesting that they list the IPX7 rating as submersible to 2 meters for 30 minutes. Hmmmmm........

As far as efficiency goes, yes it's a bit less efficient than the current SC600 model, giving almost 1 hour less light at 330 lumens, but for my typical use, that's ok. I'm more interested in the slightly smaller size (and weight) and the higher CRI 5000 daylight tint Luxeon emitter. I have a feeling that combining that emitter with the wonderful Zebralight UI just might give me the perfect pocket light.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 9, 2014)

Around the house; this light will shine. Possible problems outside the house, night walking in forest/meadow mix, the SC62 will be paired with an 800 lumens+ (or more) torch on the belt. The TM26 is great but a little heavy in the hand for long walks (it's kept on the belt or pack). And the SC52 just doesn't have enough capacity to be confident the 500 lumen burst will be there for any significant duration, if at all.

And while the SC62 will ride on a head strap for me (flashlight on the side of the head), a more defensive oriented, high lumens torch will be on the belt or in my hand for the wild critters in my neck of the woods. The SC600's are GREAT but a little small for in-hand defensiveness, my opinion.

The vast majority of my use for a flashlight will be handled just fine by the SC62. In a tint that is hopefully non distracting, with acceptable color rendering. (For me, the XPG2 S2 is greatness in tint, with nice representation of colors; so we'll see)

Happy Flashlight Hunting!


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## marinemaster (Jan 9, 2014)

Possible problems, I do not see any problems with the SC62d. 

as far as SC52 is concerned, the 500 lumens runtime, Zebralight clearly states that it does 500 lumens for 1 minute. I do not see where and what confidence has to do with anything.
=====================================

I am completely confident that the SC62d is an awesome light, just like SC52 is.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 9, 2014)

Looking forward to the clip as opposed to the SC600 clip. :green:


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 9, 2014)

"...as far as SC52 is concerned, the 500 lumens runtime, Zebralight clearly states that it does 500 lumens for 1 minute. I do not see where and what confidence has ...."

We take substantial walks. If the 14500 is not freshly charged (or even full) and we need some bright light to see errant coyotes or a bear looking to feed/attack our dog in the type of forest where we live, the SC52 May or may not have what we need. That's all. It is a wonderful, lightweight powerful light for many uses.


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

What is your "substantial" light for the coyotes/bears? 



KITROBASKIN said:


> "...as far as SC52 is concerned, the 500 lumens runtime, Zebralight clearly states that it does 500 lumens for 1 minute. I do not see where and what confidence has ...."
> 
> We take substantial walks. If the 14500 is not freshly charged (or even full) and we need some bright light to see errant coyotes or a bear looking to feed/attack our dog in the type of forest where we live, the SC52 May or may not have what we need. That's all. It is a wonderful, lightweight powerful light for many uses.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 9, 2014)

tonkem said:


> What is your "substantial" light for the coyotes/bears?



Nitecore TM26 is very confidence inspiring. Just recently got an adapter (from Oveready) to utilize P60 drop ins with my old Surefire U2. 

Also picked up a Nitecore P12. That headstrap compatible light (for me) has more throw than the drop ins! So it will be a choice between the P12 and the SC62 for night walks. Around the house the low and second low setting on the P12 are OK, but the choice of lows on a ZL are just fantastic.

The P12 is a nice coolish tint. The Sportaclight triple SPG2 S2 dropin is my favorite in terms of light quality, somewhat floody but good throw (and represents colors well). The wonderful nailbender XML2 (T6 3C tint) drop in is warm but not too warm (good representing colors, makes my white guy skin look much better than the cools). The Nichia 219 small light; no distracting yellow tint. I'm getting used to it (good color, of course)

Will the Luxeon T rule them all?


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## pblanch (Jan 9, 2014)

I cant believe they have stated that they have dropped the Q50 due to it taking up too much machine time and I have to have a back order a SC600 and a H52 (both I have been dieing to get) and then they come out with SC62. I too cannot see any improvement over the SC600. I have a Mark I SC600 (I even pre ordered it I knew that it would be a winner) and love it but want the ramping down feature and the battery testing capability. 

I understand some are excited about this but I just don't see the attraction. I can understand the attraction of a CR123 version or the S6330 but not this.

Bring back the Q50, ramp up the price if needed to compensate for the time on the machine. 

I am just in shock they have brought this out.


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## Brasso (Jan 9, 2014)

Edited for content.


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## siginu (Jan 9, 2014)

Any members out there getting proto's for reviews in the near term?


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## tonkem (Jan 9, 2014)

Zebralight did not say the Q50 is dead, just that it is on the "back burner". I am sure it will be produced someday


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## CarpentryHero (Jan 9, 2014)

Oh baby, they are finally a reality. Hope the dealers get these soon 





Edit: estimated shipping February 10? Dang that's a month away


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## pblanch (Jan 10, 2014)

Brasso Thanks for the reply. 

1. What I am surprised about is that they cannot fill the existing orders they have, thus the back orders and have decided to bring out another model thus adding to their load. 

2. High Cri. Seriously I want a light that has white light. I am not a photographer so do not care about seeing red as mauve with a touch of indigo. As long as the white is "white" and not sickly green or purple (looking at you fenix) these "Hi Cri" models are just the emperors new clothing. I understand the need for a "w" version as it is better in some circumstances. Working in an Underground mine I want a torch that is reliable and bright with adequate run time. And 600lm for 2.5hrs is not 2 seconds (longer if you go for the other modes). It is a massive amount of time to do what I need to do and when comparing to what other professionals have they are always amazed. To me they are just another tool. 

3. The other comments you made are just infantile so I wont respond.

Tonkem - thank you for your reply I too hope that the term "back burner" means that it will be produced one day. I have been waiting patiently since 2011 as well and have bought the PA40 (which is a great light. But I would like something smaller and thus portable). A lot of manufacturers have started their competition for the 4AA factor (something I noticed after ZL announced the Q50) but only the Sunwayman D40A has really caught my attention. The buttons just wont hold under the usage I see, something ZL seem to have gotten good wear/tear from.

I hope I am not coming across as a fanboy of the SC600 (which I am) and but would have though a CR123 version would have made a better progression as ZL dont really just add lights for the sake of it to boost numbers like a lot. But this one doesn't make sense to me. 

I hope everyone who does get these are happy with them. I will give this one a wide berth so that they can get theirs quicker. Will look forward to hearing about them when they arrive though.


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## Derek Dean (Jan 10, 2014)

First, Brasso, I found your comments a bit over the top and not very nice. 

pblanch, I too was really looking forward to the SC50. I waited, and waited, and to be honest I'm still waiting and hoping that at some point Zebralight will move forward with it, as I feel it's the perfect light to give family and friends. 

As for the the SC62d, I'll admit I'm surprised they are actually going ahead with production, as it seems to me to be more of a connoisseur's light, and while I could be wrong, I don't see it having nearly the broad appeal of something like the SC600 (which at this point in time IS my absolute favorite and most used light). 

However, it's a month until the SC62d is slated to arrive (I'll believe it when I see it ), and it's quite possible that during that time many SC600 back orders could be fulfilled. I hope that's the case.

Anway, if waiting is half the fun, then I'm in for a whole lot a fun .


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## Brasso (Jan 10, 2014)

You're right. I apologize. That was over the top sarcastic.

There are so many good lights out there that people downplay just because they aren't as bright as humanly possible. Get's irritating. Right tool for the right job. A pocket light is a pocket light.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 10, 2014)

Improvements over SC600, I can think of a few. 

-Smaller, therefore more EDCable. 
-Screwed on clip, rather than snapped on. 
-Higher CRI (better tint, some won't see this as improvement)

You have to take the good with the bad. SC600 is more efficient without a doubt.


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## RedForest UK (Jan 10, 2014)

I think it's a useful addition to the line-up, of course lights don't have to have a really high max output mode to be useful. I remember a few years back when 200 lumens was all anyone could realistically get with a single 18650 and no-one thought it wasn't enough then.

However, as the SC52 already uses XM-L2 surely it would make more sense to have included the XM-L2 in an 18650 version and if anything put the Luxeon T in an SC52d, which is better suited to the lower output.


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## pblanch (Jan 10, 2014)

Apology accepted, Thanks Brasso. I like the small form factor and the ZL's have the best UI and quality/reliability/form/run times ect. that I have found so far. Thats why i keep going back to them. Small lights need to be practical with run times and form. That definition obviously changes from person to person (that's obvious on a forum like this). Its not about the wow factor for me, although I do get a kick when I get that light out and get that glorious flood where I can see everything whilst everyone is still looking down their narrow beam of light at a small patch of rock. I didn't seem to appreciate a good flashlight until I saw others using the standard headlamps and hand held torches. 

The SC62 would fit someones bill to a tee, and if ZL didn't feel their was a market they wouldn't have made it.


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## turkeylord (Jan 10, 2014)

Brasso said:


> Why? Why would you want a 1000 lumen light that only runs for a minute? Why? This cracks me up.





Brasso said:


> A light that put out 1000 lumens for only 15 minutes would IMO be less than useless for an edc light.



Little late to the party here, but check out the specs for the H600w mkII - their 18650 headlamp.

*Light Output (runtimes)*

High: H1 *1020* Lm (PID, approx 2 hr) or H2 *620* Lm (PID, approx 2.5 hrs) / *330* Lm (3.9 hrs) / *150* Lm (11 hrs)
Medium: M1 *65* Lm (30 hrs) or M2 *30*Lm (66 hrs) / *11* Lm (172 hrs)
Low: L1 *3.5 *Lm (16 days) or L2 *0.4* Lm (2.5 months) / *0.06 *Lm (4.6 months) / *0.01 *Lm (5.5 months)


So it's more like 2 hours than your "a minute"/"15 minutes". And if it's ~330 lumens you want, you can have it for 3.9hrs instead of 3.0hrs. I hope they come out with a SC62w. :thumbsup:


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## tonkem (Jan 10, 2014)

With this slimmer design, I wonder if we don't see a redesign of the SC600 to be a bit smaller, at least the battery tube. Time will tell.


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## Brasso (Jan 10, 2014)

> So it's more like 2 hours than your "a minute"/"15 minutes". And if it's ~330 lumens you want, you can have it for 3.9hrs instead of 3.0hrs. I hope they come out with a SC62w.



Yes, but that's an xml and low cri. Great for it's purpose. But, I prefer tint over output. The difference between 1000 floody lumens and 320 more focused lumens is just not noticeable enough for me to keep me away from the better cri. Now if they put in one of the 90+ cri xml's I'd be all over it. But Zebralight traditionally does not do warm tints. My favorite edc at the moment is a 230 lumen Quark with a very warm high cri xpg emitter. Many folks think it's too yellow, but I love it. If not for the inferior UI of the Quark, I'd pass on the SC62d for being too cool even with the higher cri.

I've been hooked on high cri since my first HDS with high cri P4 years ago.


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## RedForest UK (Jan 10, 2014)

tonkem said:


> With this slimmer design, I wonder if we don't see a redesign of the SC600 to be a bit smaller, at least the battery tube. Time will tell.



The chunkier design of the SC600 serves it's purpose, if it was any slimmer the thermal stepdown would kick in earlier with less heatsinking mass. I think that's one of the main reasons they went for a lower power emitter in this SC62, to avoid a stepdown, but I still think it would be better suited to an XM-L2 at around 450-500 lumens like the SC52. If they want to get max output in a light that small they may as well take advantage of the extra capacity an 18650 offers and their new continuous stepdown feature.

I would really like to see the new higher CRI emitters in the SC52 though, which I think they're perfectly suited to.


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## turkeylord (Jan 10, 2014)

Brasso said:


> Yes, but that's an xml and low cri. Great for it's purpose. But, I prefer tint over output. The difference between 1000 floody lumens and 320 more focused lumens is just not noticeable enough for me to keep me away from the better cri. Now if they put in one of the 90+ cri xml's I'd be all over it. But Zebralight traditionally does not do warm tints. My favorite edc at the moment is a 230 lumen Quark with a very warm high cri xpg emitter. Many folks think it's too yellow, but I love it. If not for the inferior UI of the Quark, I'd pass on the SC62d for being too cool even with the higher cri.
> 
> I've been hooked on high cri since my first HDS with high cri P4 years ago.


Those are legitimate objections, I'll allow it. 

I have a few Nichia 219 14500 lights that do about the same output at better CRI that I love - I just don't find I need 18650 capacity for my EDC. But everybody is different.


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## Brasso (Jan 10, 2014)

I've found that on an Eneloop the SC52 has too short of a run time on high, and gets too hot on a 14500. I'd be just as happy if the sc62 was 18500 or 17670, but 18650 is fine.


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## marinemaster (Jan 10, 2014)

ZL is a manufacturer after all and they run a business. I am glad they offer different models/designs to fit a large range of users. I am confident that the SC62d will be great for my needs. Using a 18650 in such a small format makes it even better  It looks to be very able to be used for EDC, especially that it uses the screw clip for the SC52.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 10, 2014)

I suspect the SC62d would make a great camp light, or even for night fishing, in addition to your favorite ZL headlamp.


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## CarpentryHero (Jan 10, 2014)

I for one welcome the SC62, would have like to have seen a hard driven xpg2 in it. Not an XML, the sc600 and sc52 do a good job with it, the sc62 if it had an XML it would literally be a middle choice in size between the two. 
320 lumens from a small emitter will out throw 500 lumens in the same size reflector. If they want to come up with something in the middle for sizes and XML, I think an SC82 would make more sense. 

Why I feel this way?
I was was a huge fan of the sc60, the screw on clip and roughly 200 lumens, was an awesome size, weight and runtime. A real winner in its day and still a great light. I liked it so much that when the sc600 came out, I bought two. Only to find no clip at all when I bought. The clip arrived in the mail a few months later. Here I am with a snap on clip, that every time I reach for the light, where the button was in relation to the clip changed through out the day. This drove me batty enough that I epoxied the clip down. Now my sc600 has been a great light, but now that I'm over my (must have max lumens) 
an sc62, that's smaller than my sc60, tighter beam than sc600, screwed on clip aaaaaaannnnnnnd more modes than the originals. 
Well this light is a no brainer, I needs it. 

I havent tried their "daylight" models yet, so that should be a treat


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## RIX TUX (Jan 10, 2014)

Brasso said:


> I want it because it's very small and can run "forever" on a single battery. I don't need 1000 lumens for anything. In my life I have never needed 1000 lumens. And I doubt you could tell much of a difference between 320 and 1000 lumens anyway. It will look a little brighter, but it won't even look 30% brighter to the human eye, if that much. A light that put out 1000 lumens for only 15 minutes would IMO be less than useless for an edc light. It's why I don't use a AAA for an edc. The run time just doesn't cut it. Output is fine, but what if there's an emergency and you need light for a several hours? You're SOL.


Switch to a lower mode.


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## OneBigDay (Jan 10, 2014)

To me this light has many advantages over the SC600 (I don't have a Mk II version). The SC600 is too big for a pocket (IMO) and has the cheesy clip on clip. The SC62 has a PROPER clip, and it has a much slimmer profile. The mix of portability and power of this is what makes the design stand out.

The older SC60 had too short of a battery compartment. The only cells I dared put in mine were IMR cells because they were about 3-4 mm shorter than a protected 18650. Otherwise I felt like I was crushing my cells. Looks like Zebralight also put a couple extra mm in the battery tube on the SC62. Well done.

The LUXEON T is an unknown emitter to me, so it'll be a new experience.


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## Streak (Jan 10, 2014)

I have been waiting and waiting for the ultimate 18650 EDC light to replace my SC52W. The ones I currently have are too big. I was hoping the SC62D would be it but to be so it would need to be as good or better than my SC52W.

It has the great Zebra UI, the great screw on pocket clip and the 18650 in a small package. While output is not everything it's nice to know you have it in case you need it even if it is just for short bursts. The lowest requirement on my list is CRI and I would consider it a nice to have. 

I am not dismissing it right now but will wait to see comparisons with the SC52w before deciding.


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## tonkem (Jan 10, 2014)

I am sure they will release other models in the CW and NW emitters for the SC62. 



Streak said:


> I have been waiting and waiting for the ultimate 18650 EDC light to replace my SC52W. The ones I currently have are too big. I was hoping the SC62D would be it but to be so it would need to be as good or better than my SC52W.
> 
> It has the great Zebra UI, the great screw on pocket clip and the 18650 in a small package. While output is not everything it's nice to know you have it in case you need it even if it is just for short bursts. The lowest requirement on my list is CRI and I would consider it a nice to have.
> 
> I am not dismissing it right now but will wait to see comparisons with the SC52w before deciding.


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## lampeDépêche (Jan 11, 2014)

Man, I am torn about this one.

On the one hand, I like good tints. So I am tempted by the HiCri. And I have not had a Luxeon since way back in the Arc LS days!

But I'm pretty shocked at the drop from ~1000 lumens down to 300. That's quite a loss.

Just two nights ago a big buck deer got into our fenced back yard and started eating the plants. I stepped out to shoo it away, and had my H52 in my pocket. I clicked it on high, i.e. 280 lumens, and it ran away, down to the end of the yard. But I could not see whether it had jumped the other fence, or was just loitering in the bushes--they have had millions of years to get good at blending into brush. I clicked the H52 into turbo, 500 lumens, and suddenly it was plain as day. And the deer jumped the fence.

Sometimes, more lumens really is better. Normally, you don't have to say this on CPF.

I don't know--the traditional solution is to buy both, and that's probably what I'll do.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jan 11, 2014)

Sounds like you need a thrower! 100 lumens when thrown right can do the trick.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 11, 2014)

lampeDépêche said:


> Man, I am torn about this one.
> 
> On the one hand, I like good tints. So I am tempted by the HiCri. And I have not had a Luxeon since way back in the Arc LS days!
> 
> ...



To me, this post touches on one core aspect of flashlight use.

Kind of the old "bring enough gun" to the fight quandary. So far, the TM26 most satisfactorily meets our high needs usage but it would be nice to have less weight, but then you take the chance of not being able to see something out of your flashlight's range. Oh Well, maybe over thinking. It's just that in James Bond movies he always uses everything "Q" supplies and it is always sufficient to get the job done!

On forest walks now I am also carrying items for our 4 year old son. In addition, my wife won't even carry a cell phone, much less a torch. So if I have to deal with a coyote attack on our dog (it's happened before with a smaller dog), the wife will be given the SC62 while I advance with more light. Coyotes run away from humans, and bears (and much more rarely, mountain lions) will most probably run. Having my son on walks changes things.


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## Brasso (Jan 11, 2014)

You need the light provided from the muzzle flash of a 44mag.


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## RIX TUX (Jan 11, 2014)

Since all ZL are floody I would really like one that has some throw at the expense of lumens.
But can that small head on the Sc62 throw?


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## tonkem (Jan 11, 2014)

Perhaps a Lupine Betty TLS? Lighter and 2600 lumens, or the new TL2 at 4500 lumens. Much smaller and lighter than the TM26.



KITROBASKIN said:


> Kind of the old "bring enough gun" to the fight quandary. So far, the TM26 most satisfactorily meets our high needs usage but it would be nice to have less weight, but then you take the chance of not being able to see something out of your flashlight's range.


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jan 11, 2014)

Brasso said:


> You need the light provided from the muzzle flash of a 44mag.



Ruger BlackHawk Hunter with 1.5-4X scope; heavier than the TM26 Oh Yeah. The mountain lions are so rare, bears rare, coyotes are an issue. Our current dog is pretty big and pretty well trained now, but still... If you have carried a sidearm, you know how heavy it gets, plus the fact we are on government owned open space (no discharge of weapons allowed) much of the time. We did see a yearling bear last summer. He was at the base of a good sized pine tree, ready to scurry up into it. We didn't linger. The dog alerted us. Our boy was my primary concern. If we start a walk near dark, I often remember to attach one of those blinking, 3 LED, red bike lights to the back of his jacket. The wife likes to walk by moonlight and that gives me the opportunity to occasionally blast the environs to check for critters (although low light reflects animal eyes better). My son is good at seeing big, Horned Owls sitting in trees, then I beam them to get a better look. Hopefully the SC62 will have enough oomph to enjoy wildlife with a better tint but I'm expecting that wide, beautiful hotspot with substantial lumens in the spill, even though more throw would be most welcome, you just can't have everything.

Already purchased the TM26 before even knowing of the existence of "Betty". Those Lupine lights are much coin. Hopefully I can get by with a single or double 18650 torch as a companion to the sc62.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 11, 2014)

i really think this should've been a 16650 light. imagine the super compact form factors that zebra could've achieved with this cell

and with several times the capacity of a 14500 runtime should still be a LOT given the relatively low 320 lumens


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 12, 2014)

Interesting idea from Overclocker: For me, the ability to use the same batteries for most of my working flashlights is more important than having a 2mm reduction in diameter.


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## RedForest UK (Jan 12, 2014)

Yeah, I like the 16650 size, but it would only be a reduction in diameter and the head may have to stay the same size anyway. If they also added compatibility for 2x CR123a cells (as they're the same size) then it may find a market, but as is the 2mm decrease in diameter doesn't seem worth sacrificing 50% capacity and the hassle of an additional cell type.


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## lampeDépêche (Jan 12, 2014)

Another point about my reluctance about this light.

I have pretty much been swallowed up by the headlamp Borg into agreeing that 95% of the time, a headlamp beats a handheld.
(And it's your own fault, Zebralight! It's your headlamps that persuaded me!)

But the one time when I really want a handheld light is for seeing *that* spot, just that one spot, way off in the distance. 

For handheld lights, I want throw. For general visual awareness and peripheral vision, the headlamp is great. That's why I often walk at night with an H600w Mk II on my head, and a Quark Maelstrom XPG in my hand. The XPG in that big reflector has plenty of throw, even though the lumens are lower (and the tint is too cool).

In other words: I think a lower-lumen, better-tint light like this is ideal for a headlamp, but really not right for a handheld.

Sigh....Still, pretty sweet light in many ways.


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## Brasso (Jan 12, 2014)

Actually, I think an 18500 would be cool. No one utilizes that cell size enough.


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## LeukTech (Jan 12, 2014)

Derek Dean said:


> I've been waiting for this one, and to be honest I'd kind of given up on it, so I'm happy to see they're going to follow through with it after all. I rarely pre-order, but I've made an exception for the SC62d. I do find it interesting that they list the IPX7 rating as submersible to 2 meters for 30 minutes. Hmmmmm........
> 
> As far as efficiency goes, yes it's a bit less efficient than the current SC600 model, giving almost 1 hour less light at 330 lumens, but for my typical use, that's ok. I'm more interested in the slightly smaller size (and weight) and the higher CRI 5000 daylight tint Luxeon emitter. I have a feeling that combining that emitter with the wonderful Zebralight UI just might give me the perfect pocket light.



I'll definitely be looking forward to reading your thoughts on the tint of this emitter. We both seem to have very similar preference in tints and beam quality from what I have read.

One thing I worry about with the 5000k tint is that it could be too cold of a tint. I have had a 5000k 3D bin XP-G2 in the past from nailbender, and unless I directly compared it to a ~6500k LED or other neutral, to my eyes it looked like a cool white tint. It was the strangest thing and I absolutely hated it. I've never seen a 3C bin cree emitter, so I dunno how that would compare to the 3D bin. 

So far the Nichia 219 has been the best emitter I have seen thus far, it's only downfall is the possibility of a slight green-shift in lower modes and some 219's are just ever-so-slightly too pinkish. But even with those nitpicks, the 219 still blows away any XM-L or XP-G emitter tints I have seen by far. Not only in tint, but the tint transition between hotspot and spill is very smooth and even, unlike most cree neutral emitters where the hotspot may be yellow and the spill is purple. 

I have the SC51c with the Luxeon 4200k (or maybe 4000k, can't remember) emitter, and it is definitely the second best emitter tint I have, although since I have been accustomed to the 219 tint, it is now slightly too warm for me. 


So I hope you come back and post your thoughts when you get the light! I'll be anxiously awaiting!


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## marinemaster (Jan 12, 2014)

Not sure why 16650 comes into picture here. 18650 is very popular and a long established battery size. I don't think even on this forum many people know or have a 16650. Besides 18650 has a higher almost double the capacity of mah. 18650 is a worldwide known size a trusted and reliable format. This is a perfect match for the ZL.


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## Derek Dean (Jan 12, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> I'll definitely be looking forward to reading your thoughts on the tint of this emitter. We both seem to have very similar preference in tints and beam quality from what I have read.
> 
> One thing I worry about with the 5000k tint is that it could be too cold of a tint. I have had a 5000k 3D bin XP-G2 in the past from nailbender, and unless I directly compared it to a ~6500k LED or other neutral, to my eyes it looked like a cool white tint. It was the strangest thing and I absolutely hated it. I've never seen a 3C bin cree emitter, so I dunno how that would compare to the 3D bin.
> 
> ...


Yep, I've been saying for quite a while that my perfect EDC would be a Zebralight SC600 with a triple Nichia 219. Great UI, bright, and with excellent color rendering. In fact, I've been looking for somebody to mod my SC600 with a triple Nichia 219, but haven't found anybody yet. Once I get the SC62d I may just attempt adding a triple 219 to the SC600 myself. 

And yes, I've had to add light magenta filters to BOTH of my Nichia 219 equipped lights to get rid of that slight green tendency at lower levels, but with that done they are exquisite . 

As to the 5000K Luxeon T LED, I agree with you, it just might be a little to cool. More than likely I'll end up filtering it as well. Since the SC62d is listed as having a beam profile similar to the SC600 (10 degree spot, 80 degree spill), I'll probably be adding some diffusion material anyway (I like it floody), so it won't be any more trouble adding some type of a color filter to fine tune the tint. 

in any case, I will no doubt post my impressions once the SC62d arrives :wave:.


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## Overclocker (Jan 12, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> Not sure why 16650 comes into picture here. 18650 is very popular and a long established battery size. I don't think even on this forum many people know or have a 16650. Besides 18650 has a higher almost double the capacity of mah. 18650 is a worldwide known size a trusted and reliable format. This is a perfect match for the ZL.




except that it cannot run on primaries (very very useful to have). two CR123As is the same size as 16650

i think zebralight missed the opportunity to finally offer 2x CR123A compatibilty here. they could probably even get away with a simple buck driver since the draw is quite low. regulation would still be great even on single li-ion

the way it is right now the sc62d has limited appeal. but with 2x CR123A and ultra-compact size it would've been a killer


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## marinemaster (Jan 13, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> except that it cannot run on primaries (very very useful to have). two CR123As is the same size as 16650
> 
> i think zebralight missed the opportunity to finally offer 2x CR123A compatibilty here. they could probably even get away with a simple buck driver since the draw is quite low. regulation would still be great even on single li-ion
> 
> the way it is right now the sc62d has limited appeal. but with 2x CR123A and ultra-compact size it would've been a killer



Not so easily done, as this post explains it. If you want efficiency is either a 4.2V or 2x123 = 6V.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...x18650)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-VIDEO/page3


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## turkeylord (Jan 13, 2014)

For me, primaries are a backup/emergency option. I prefer to run rechargeables for a number of reasons, mainly waste and cost. And since that's my MO, AA makes a lot more sense and they can be had anywhere. I do like 18650 however - carrying my H600wMKII today with a Maratac AAA for backup.


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## CarpentryHero (Jan 13, 2014)

As far as size goes the sc60 is smaller than a lot of 17650 lights, in both average diameter and length, I don't see an appeal of a 16650 or two cr123 light. Let's be honest, who here uses two cr123's in a light while carrying it. The only time I put primaries in is when it's a drawer or shelf light. I use 17650 instead, on almost all the lights that can use both. My Quark 2cr123, Thrunite Nuetron 2c and Eagletac P20c2 haven't seen more than one round of primaries.

18650, atleast for me has become a regular battery, and the Sc62 should be plenty small enough. 

Ive heard of people using 17500 in the sc80, if they had been brighter on rechargeables, I would have gotten one. 
Hoping the sc82 is a more well rounded light. Neither 17500 or 16650 have much appeal to me. I prefer 14500 for compact output, and 18650 for runtime.


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## markr6 (Jan 13, 2014)

I'm getting to the point where I don't really use my SC600wII. The SC52 sees all the action. So when my SC62d arrives, one of them will definitely go up for sale. Anxious to see which one it will be. High expectations on this one!


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## Overclocker (Jan 13, 2014)

markr6 said:


> I'm getting to the point where I don't really use my SC600wII. The SC52 sees all the action. So when my SC62d arrives, one of them will definitely go up for sale. Anxious to see which one it will be. High expectations on this one!



sell the sc600. been there, done that. it's just too fat



marinemaster said:


> Not so easily done, as this post explains it. If you want efficiency is either a 4.2V or 2x123 = 6V.
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...x18650)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-VIDEO/page3



that's why i said buck-only. i doesn't have to be buck/boost. think foursevens QP2L, buck only, flat-regulated even on single li-ion



CarpentryHero said:


> As far as size goes the sc60 is smaller than a lot of 17650 lights, in both average diameter and length, I don't see an appeal of a 16650 or two cr123 light. Let's be honest, who here uses two cr123's in a light while carrying it. The only time I put primaries in is when it's a drawer or shelf light. I use 17650 instead, on almost all the lights that can use both. My Quark 2cr123, Thrunite Nuetron 2c and Eagletac P20c2 haven't seen more than one round of primaries.
> 
> 18650, atleast for me has become a regular battery, and the Sc62 should be plenty small enough.
> 
> ...



exactly. 16650 for everyday use. CR123A for emergencies. great to have the capability. current zebras are dead in the water when you discharge all your 18650s


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## marinemaster (Jan 13, 2014)

"current zebras are dead in the water when you discharge all your 18650s" 

Really ??? so are ANY other flashlights for that matter that take 18650 and since laptops batteries are 18650 based millions of laptops have the same problem.

1) ZL SC62d takes no 16650 only is murder. (further up the posting) 

2) ZL SC62d takes no 2x123 is capital murder. 

I have noticed a trend in all the ZL threads on cpf that ZL is knocked on for all the lame reasons. I wonder why that is, maybe some people have a personal agenda against ZL.


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## RIX TUX (Jan 13, 2014)

I think that owners of ZL's probably have another or several other lights. So one light may be dead in the water but not the owner.
In a catastrophe one might run out of primaries but you can recharge a li-on with a solar or car charger. The li-on is more versatile and then there is all the money savings.


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## Overclocker (Jan 13, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> "current zebras are dead in the water when you discharge all your 18650s"
> 
> Really ??? so are ANY other flashlights for that matter that take 18650 and since laptops batteries are 18650 based millions of laptops have the same problem.



logic not found in the above post


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## Overclocker (Jan 13, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> I think that owners of ZL's probably have another or several other lights. So one light may be dead in the water but not the owner.
> In a catastrophe one might run out of primaries but you can recharge a li-on with a solar or car charger. The li-on is more versatile and then there is all the money savings.




that's just great. use another light huh? 

what i'm saying is zebralight missed the chance to support BOTH li-ion AND 2x CR123A. they could've doen this easily with a buck driver. you can argue all you want about solar charging but when it's night away from a car, and all your 18650s are dead...


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## tonkem (Jan 13, 2014)

I think it has been mentioned in this thread already, that Zebralight has chosen to go with the 18650 and making the light efficient using only that battery. Other manufacturers do the same, IE, elzetta only using CR123's. All to his own. I love the Zebralight UI and also that they give me choices in battery type. I am not sure why they don't have a 2 x CR123, but my guess would be efficiency, runtime and limited ability to produce the lights they are designing right now, that everyone wants


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## Overclocker (Jan 13, 2014)

tonkem said:


> I think it has been mentioned in this thread already, that Zebralight has chosen to go with the 18650 and making the light efficient using only that battery. Other manufacturers do the same, IE, elzetta only using CR123's. All to his own. I love the Zebralight UI and also that they give me choices in battery type. I am not sure why they don't have a 2 x CR123, but my guess would be efficiency, runtime and limited ability to produce the lights they are designing right now, that everyone wants



As mentioned due to inefficiency with buck/boost

What I'm saying is they should've gone with a buck only like everyone does. Very efficient, but which isn't an issue in the first place coz of the huge fuel tank. Buck/boost not really needed with such a low draw


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## tonkem (Jan 13, 2014)

Not really up to speed on drivers, etc. but judging from Zebra's efficiencies at the lower levels as well as the size and output of their lights, I would figure they are doing something right 



Overclocker said:


> As mentioned due to inefficiency with buck/boost
> 
> What I'm saying is they should've gone with a buck only like everyone does. Very efficient, but which isn't an issue in the first place coz of the huge fuel tank. Buck/boost not really needed with such a low draw


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## Etsu (Jan 13, 2014)

tonkem said:


> Not really up to speed on drivers, etc. but judging from Zebra's efficiencies at the lower levels as well as the size and output of their lights, I would figure they are doing something right



Is ZL really any more efficient than other brands, when you compare them lumens/watt? I mean _real _lumen output, not what ZL claims. ZL's moonlight modes are significantly dimmer than what they claim. If I compare them on an apples-to-apples basis against Quarks, the efficiency is about the same. Which is very good, I just don't think ZL deserves credit for being much more efficient than others. If it is more efficient, it's not much.


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## tonkem (Jan 13, 2014)

Etsu said:


> Is ZL really any more efficient than other brands, when you compare them lumens/watt? I mean _real _lumen output, not what ZL claims. ZL's moonlight modes are significantly dimmer than what they claim. If I compare them on an apples-to-apples basis against Quarks, the efficiency is about the same. Which is very good, I just don't think ZL deserves credit for being much more efficient than others. If it is more efficient, it's not much.



For me, it is the total package that determines whether I purchase any given light. Size and UI are very important as well as modes and efficiency. I have not found another light maker that has as small of a light with the output/efficiency/number of modes and UI as Zebralight. Whether I am "giving them credit", I give them my business so that would default as at least appreciating the design and other items listed above. But to each his own. That is why there are so many light manufacturers and all seem to command a certain market share, so in the end we have choice and that is a good thing.


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## jimboutilier (Jan 13, 2014)

Etsu said:


> Is ZL really any more efficient than other brands, when you compare them lumens/watt? I mean _real _lumen output, not what ZL claims. ZL's moonlight modes are significantly dimmer than what they claim. If I compare them on an apples-to-apples basis against Quarks, the efficiency is about the same. Which is very good, I just don't think ZL deserves credit for being much more efficient than others. If it is more efficient, it's not much.



You make a statement of fact that ZL misrepresents it's output and I have never seen any source that backs this up. I mean no disrespect to those that have compared ZL output against other lights stated outputs or using homegrown devices that approximate output values. But I've never seen anyone using a certified, calibrated integration sphere test an ANSI sample of ZLs that disputes ZLs figures. It may be true, but if you are going to make statements like that, you might be nice to reference a trusted source.


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## LeukTech (Jan 13, 2014)

Derek Dean said:


> Yep, I've been saying for quite a while that my perfect EDC would be a Zebralight SC600 with a triple Nichia 219. Great UI, bright, and with excellent color rendering. In fact, I've been looking for somebody to mod my SC600 with a triple Nichia 219, but haven't found anybody yet. Once I get the SC62d I may just attempt adding a triple 219 to the SC600 myself.
> 
> And yes, I've had to add light magenta filters to BOTH of my Nichia 219 equipped lights to get rid of that slight green tendency at lower levels, but with that done they are exquisite .
> 
> ...



Back before I got my triple 219 from EDC+ I did quite a few searches here on CPF, came across your thread where you talk about having a SC600 with a trip 219 in it. I am with you on that one, if my SC600 had a triple 219 (driven well, say at 4.5 amps on turbo which would yield probably about 800 lumens), it would definitely be the 99.9% perfect flashlight for me. Although I would still require some kind of really bright 219 thrower as well just in case I need to have some down-range power. If you do decide to attempt to mod your sc600 and make a thread here on CPF about it, PM me the link, cause I would love to follow that project!

Although I have been throwing around the idea of having vinh stick a single 219 in my SC600, cause I read that the 219 can handle the peak 3A draw of the sc600, but I would only plan on using the next highest mode, which draws around 1.4A and would be perfect for the 219. Not nearly as bright as the high CRI XM-L2 I have in there now, but I don't even use the light anymore because I learned that I do not like really warm tints, and this high CRI XM-L2 that's in there now is 2700k incandescent kind of warm. Beautiful warm tint that is more rosy than yellow, don't get me wrong it is nice, but is just too warm!

However if this Luxeon works out, and you don't even have to filter it, then it will be a pure win emitter for sure! Will be keeping my eyes peeled on this thread.


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## tonkem (Jan 13, 2014)

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...eview-RUNTIME-BEAMSHOTS-comparisons-amp-more!



jimboutilier said:


> You make a statement of fact that ZL misrepresents it's output and I have never seen any source that backs this up. I mean no disrespect to those that have compared ZL output against other lights stated outputs or using homegrown devices that approximate output values. But I've never seen anyone using a certified, calibrated integration sphere test an ANSI sample of ZLs that disputes ZLs figures. It may be true, but if you are going to make statements like that, you might be nice to reference a trusted source.


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## lampeDépêche (Jan 13, 2014)

You know, it's *really* not that hard to use CR123's in an 18650 Zebralight. A little electrical tape and a little tin foil (to carry current from pos to pos and neg to neg), and you can put the two cells *IN PARALLEL* inside your ZL, and it runs fine on everything except the turbo. Of course if you put them in in series, you fry your light, so don't do that.

I made a little sleeve with tape and foil built into it, so that you can load batteries in and take them out and not have to re-tape each time. If I were going somewhere I had worries about charging, I'd bring it along with some CR123 primaries.

Don't like that rig? Then just run a single CR123 with a spacer. Again, works fine up to a few hundred lumens. 

Worried that you are going have a ZL 18650 light and a bunch of CR123's and no way to use them? You need to get in touch with your inner McGyver.


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## mcantu (Jan 13, 2014)

tonkem said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...eview-RUNTIME-BEAMSHOTS-comparisons-amp-more!



but note what selfbuilt states on the SC600 MkII review:

"Overall, my lumen estimates are pretty close to Zebralights specs. The lowest output modes seem lower than the specs would suggest, but that could be due in part to sample variation.

As always, note my lumen estimation method is just that – an estimation based on the calibration of my lightbox. As such, don't get caught up on the _absolute difference between lights or levels, as I can't guarantee absolute accuracy. Focus instead on the relative differences, as that is internally consistent across all my reviews."


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?373895
_


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## jimboutilier (Jan 13, 2014)

tonkem said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...eview-RUNTIME-BEAMSHOTS-comparisons-amp-more!



Perhaps you read that review differently than I do. In what I read Selfbuilt does not claim accurate lumen reading but estimations compared to other things he's tested. He does great, useful reviews but everything is based on relative estimates using home made equipment. He also often does reviews based on a single sample. This comes nowhere near a statistically significant sample and nowhere near a calibrated, certified integrations sphere that disputes ZLs claims. 

Not saying it isn't true, just that I haven't seen any definitive proof and was hoping someone would provide it since it seems an often repeated statement.


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## Brasso (Jan 13, 2014)

I see a awful lot of griping about how this light just isn't bright enough and you just can't live your lives without 1000 lumens, and it just boggles my mind. so.......


...I'd seriously like to know what it is you guys are doing with your edc lights that require you to have 1000 lumens? What is it that 320 lumens is too dim for that you need 1000 lumens? I really want to know because after 16 years as a police officer I myself have never needed or wished I had more than about 250 lumens, on or off duty. So let's see a list of things that you do that 320 lumens is just not adequate for. Remember we're talking about an edc pocket light. I'm sure you can come up with dedicated uses for bigger lights, but we're talking edc use. And thank God we live in 2014. I shudder to think how you guys would have survived 10 years ago when all we had were 60 lumen incandescents.

...................................?


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## justanotherguy (Jan 13, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> that's just great. use another light huh?
> 
> what i'm saying is zebralight missed the chance to support BOTH li-ion AND 2x CR123A. they could've doen this easily with a buck driver. _you can argue all you want about solar charging but when it's night away from a car, and all your 18650s are dead.._.



Yea, I dont get this logic..So in your CR123 world, You are away from your car for the night. Away from civilization I take it? And what? You find CR123's growing on trees whereas an 18650 user won't?
I find no logic in this post :nana:
If your away from everything, and YOU carry a few extra batteries, that's no advantage over the guy in the same situation.............. who would carry a FEW extra 18650...:fail:

Face it, the choice of battery rarely affects the usability of a light in 95% of circumstances...95%
If I'm going camping, my car will be SOMEWHERE. And on that ONE time I am hiking a 20 miler, I think carrying 4 of any battery is going to suffice.....It's not like I'm hiking out of the grand canyon at 2am to 7-11 to grab some 'available' 123's or AA variants....Because God knows 7-11 don't carry no 18650! :shakehead
yawn


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## justanotherguy (Jan 13, 2014)

Brasso said:


> I see a awful lot of griping about how this light just isn't bright enough and you just can't live your lives without 1000 lumens, and it just boggles my mind. so.......
> 
> 
> ...I'd seriously like to know what it is you guys are doing with your edc lights that require you to have 1000 lumens? What is it that 320 lumens is too dim for that you need 1000 lumens? I really want to know because after 16 years as a police officer I myself have never needed or wished I had more than about 250 lumens, on or off duty. So let's see a list of things that you do that 320 lumens is just not adequate for. Remember we're talking about an edc pocket light. I'm sure you can come up with dedicated uses for bigger lights, but we're talking edc use. And thank God we live in 2014.  I shudder to think how you guys would have survived 10 years ago when all we had were 60 lumen incandescents.
> ...



+1

I made some snake lights for mechanical work, and I used SC600's. I never need the full high mode, and H2 mode, well thats more than enough. In fact I find if you want to just use the light for closeup repairs M1 is more than adequate.
Go from M1 to H1 and it's like 'Holy carp, thats ridiculous!'


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## jimboutilier (Jan 13, 2014)

justanotherguy said:


> Yea, I dont get this logic..So in your CR123 world, You are away from your car for the night. Away from civilization I take it? And what? You find CR123's growing on trees whereas an 18650 user won't?
> I find no logic in this post :nana:
> If your away from everything, and YOU carry a few extra batteries, that's no advantage over the guy in the same situation.............. who would carry a FEW extra 18650...:fail:
> 
> ...



Thats just it. A light that will take either an 18650 or 2xCR123 is more flexible than a light that only takes one. While the 18650 has better power density and is more cost effective in frequent use, CR123s have much better storage life and common availability. 

If you are traveling and your 18650 or charger fails, good luck finding an easy replacement in many parts of the world. But in most places there will be a local department store or camera store that will have CR123s. If you are storing a light for emergency use, good luck pulling it out in a year or two and expecting it to work with an 18650 but 5 or 10 years later it's no problem with a CR123. 

Conversely, if you use your light several hours a day you'll be changing cells a lot using CR123s but not near as much using 18650s. Also you'll be spending a small fortune on disposable 123s rather than cheaply recharging and 18650. 

A light that that takes either will likely appeal to more people and offer more flexibility in the lights use. Of course it will also likely be a bit bigger and a bit less efficient so there are trade offs.


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## tonkem (Jan 13, 2014)

Agreed. For lights that I seldom use, I prefer to have Cr123 power, IE, glove box, etc. For EDC lights, I prefer some sort of rechargeable cell, IE 18650, NIMH AA, 14500. Headlamps are a different story for me, as I have an 18650 lamp and a proprietary battery on my Lupine Piko Duo X.

No one light fits all needs, which is why there are so many, and Zebralight fits many of them, just not a 2 x cr123, yet. 



jimboutilier said:


> Thats just it. A light that will take either an 18650 or 2xCR123 is more flexible than a light that only takes one. While the 18650 has better power density and is more cost effective in frequent use, CR123s have much better storage life and common availability.
> 
> If you are traveling and your 18650 or charger fails, good luck finding an easy replacement in many parts of the world. But in most places there will be a local department store or camera store that will have CR123s. If you are storing a light for emergency use, good luck pulling it out in a year or two and expecting it to work with an 18650 but 5 or 10 years later it's no problem with a CR123.
> 
> ...


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## moozooh (Jan 13, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> they could probably even get away with a simple buck driver since the draw is quite low.





Overclocker said:


> that's why i said buck-only. i doesn't have to be buck/boost. think foursevens QP2L, buck only, flat-regulated even on single li-ion





Overclocker said:


> As mentioned due to inefficiency with buck/boost
> 
> What I'm saying is they should've gone with a buck only like everyone does. Very efficient, but which isn't an issue in the first place coz of the huge fuel tank. Buck/boost not really needed with such a low draw


Whoa, hold on! What made you think their 18650 lights aren't buck-only in the first place? At no point do they boost, as is evident by low battery stepdown which occurs _exactly_ at the forward voltage breakpoints. It's pretty much why they're as efficient as they are; for a company so hell-bent on optimization it would be catastrophic to not have implemented a simple and obvious improvement expressed by a random forum poster.


----------



## marinemaster (Jan 13, 2014)

Brasso said:


> I I shudder to think how you guys would have survived 10 years ago when all we had were 60 lumen incandescents.
> 
> ...................................?



Well said, totally agree. My SF E2L one stage 45 lumens is my GO TO light. 45 lumens is plenty of light.

I say let's move on and start a countdown until February 10. My last 18650 light was a Pila G2L. I can't wait for the SC62d to get here. 

T minus 28 days


----------



## jimboutilier (Jan 13, 2014)

Does anyone know if the SC62 features head and tail springs (e.g. would it take flat top cells like the SC600IIL2)?


----------



## tonkem (Jan 13, 2014)

Hopefully it will ship on the estimated date  



marinemaster said:


> Well said, totally agree. My SF E2L one stage 45 lumens is my GO TO light. 45 lumens is plenty of light.
> 
> I say let's move on and start a countdown until February 10. My last 18650 light was a Pila G2L. I can't wait for the SC62d to get here.
> 
> T minus 28 days


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jan 13, 2014)

mcantu said:


> "Overall, my lumen estimates are pretty close to Zebralights specs. The lowest output modes seem lower than the specs would suggest, but that could be due in part to sample...



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...EO/page2&highlight=L10+illumination+selfbuilt

Looking in this review you will see a paragraph that starts with something like 'A few things jump out here' or something like that where Selfbuilt discusses the variability of the very low lumen settings. It sounds like it is difficult for manufacturers to consistently set those low, low settings, the same on all the flashlights they make. 

Many of us are not going to disparage ZL if their low lumen claims are off.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 13, 2014)

moozooh said:


> Whoa, hold on! What made you think their 18650 lights aren't buck-only in the first place? At no point do they boost, as is evident by low battery stepdown which occurs _exactly_ at the forward voltage breakpoints. It's pretty much why they're as efficient as they are; for a company so hell-bent on optimization it would be catastrophic to not have implemented a simple and obvious improvement expressed by a random forum poster.









there's your buck/boost. all other single-cell are downward slopes

have you forgotten that old zebralights didn't have low-battery stepdown?


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jan 13, 2014)

lampeDépêche said:


> Of course if you put them in in series, you fry your light, so don't do that.
> 
> 
> Then just run a single CR123 with a spacer. Again, works fine up to a few hundred lumens.



So you're saying that I could get a CR123 Dummy cell from Customlites.com and run the SC62 off of 1XCR123 for a few hundred lumens? That is great to know! Thanks!


----------



## LeukTech (Jan 13, 2014)

lampeDépêche said:


> You know, it's *really* not that hard to use CR123's in an 18650 Zebralight. A little electrical tape and a little tin foil (to carry current from pos to pos and neg to neg), and you can put the two cells *IN PARALLEL* inside your ZL, and it runs fine on everything except the turbo. Of course if you put them in in series, you fry your light, so don't do that.
> 
> I made a little sleeve with tape and foil built into it, so that you can load batteries in and take them out and not have to re-tape each time. If I were going somewhere I had worries about charging, I'd bring it along with some CR123 primaries.
> 
> ...



I was just going to point this out. Where there's a will, there's a way! 

Using a CR123 with a spacer in a 18650 light should work in a pinch. May not be optimized for it, but for emergency uses any light is good light! Not to mention this is a lot easier than trying to use a 18650 in a CR123 light!


----------



## CarpentryHero (Jan 14, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> that's just great. use another light huh?
> 
> what i'm saying is zebralight missed the chance to support BOTH li-ion AND 2x CR123A. they could've doen this easily with a buck driver. you can argue all you want about solar charging but when it's night away from a car, and all your 18650s are dead...



Since this quote is shorter ill comment here, I'm sure a few others are in the same boat when I say " if all the batteries you packed are dead, then you didn't pack right " 

id never use a 16650, I don't think it's got enough juice to be a useful day to day light. If you want a light that takes lithium and primary batteries, Zebralight already has a lot of options. Your hoping that Zebralight makes there light more survivalist friendly? I'd say lithium primaries and rechargeables aren't the way to go. Get a shake light if you never want to run out of juice, Some of those shake lights are now made with a shelf life of 30-50 years in moderate climates.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 14, 2014)

CarpentryHero said:


> Since this quote is shorter ill comment here, I'm sure a few others are in the same boat when I say " if all the batteries you packed are dead, then you didn't pack right "
> 
> id never use a 16650, I don't think it's got enough juice to be a useful day to day light. If you want a light that takes lithium and primary batteries, Zebralight already has a lot of options. Your hoping that Zebralight makes there light more survivalist friendly? I'd say lithium primaries and rechargeables aren't the way to go. Get a shake light if you never want to run out of juice, Some of those shake lights are now made with a shelf life of 30-50 years in moderate climates.




really? a cell that has two & a half times the capacity of the best 14500 doesn't have enough juice? you got to be kidding. have you ever used a Foursevens Quark or Eagletac D25C2 w/ a Sanyo 16650? but nevermind the 16650, it's just 2mm anyway...

to reiterate for the hundredth time, all i'm saying is zebralight missed the chance to offer 2x CR123A capability with this newest zebra. given the technical parameters i.e. 320 lumens, they could've done it without any compromises. easily. that's FLEXIBILITY which's ALWAYS A GOOD THING

now it's easy to say you didn't pack right, but if you only have 4 18650s and they're all flat then that box of CR123A's could be a life saver.

i can't believe you people are so resistant to this idea

remember back then when zebralights didn't have recessed buttons? we clamored for it, now we've got it. same with low-battery stepdown. same with thermal-regulation. same with battery guage. same with triple-click strobe. zebralight is watching these threads


----------



## marinemaster (Jan 14, 2014)

Don't feed the trolls.


----------



## Etsu (Jan 14, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Looking in this review you will see a paragraph that starts with something like 'A few things jump out here' or something like that where Selfbuilt discusses the variability of the very low lumen settings. It sounds like it is difficult for manufacturers to consistently set those low, low settings, the same on all the flashlights they make.
> 
> Many of us are not going to disparage ZL if their low lumen claims are off.



There's no "disparaging" going on, here. Simply stating that ZL's moonlight mode efficiencies are on par with other leading manufacturers with moonlight modes, is not disparaging. ZL has made claims that their moonlight modes are brighter than they really are, that's all I'm saying. It's readily backed up many times with review estimates and comparison pictures with other brands.

I have yet to see even one example that shows anything to the contrary (including my own anecdotal evidence with my own lights). So, I'll believe the existing evidence until it's shown to be false.

ZL doesn't have poor efficiency. It's very good. It happens to be in the same ballpark as other leading manufacturers. That's good. It's just not as good as what ZL claims.


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jan 14, 2014)

Seems like a member could start a poll regarding preference for a 1X18650 or a 2XCR123 ZL. Not taking the time to look back at the posts, it seemed that the claim was being made that ZL is not telling the truth about their lumen output (kind of a general remark as opposed to just the low, low figures)


----------



## markr6 (Jan 14, 2014)

We're getting all kinds of topics going here, but a quick comment on the CR123 compatability. I love my Zebralights, but they're not something I would rely on, say, for keeping in my car. For that type of application I use my PD23UE. And while I do keep an 18650 in there, I don't rely on it 100%. It's nice to also have a pack of CR123s in the glovebox just in case.


----------



## RIX TUX (Jan 14, 2014)

I bought my ZL because it uses 18650 batteries, don't care if 123a batteries work at all.


----------



## marinemaster (Jan 14, 2014)

Roger that.


----------



## Derek Dean (Jan 14, 2014)

I certainly wouldn't mind if the new SC62d could also run on CR123 cells. It's always good to have that kind of flexibility built into a light. However, I've found there is usually a trade off of some sort, when you gain one thing you give up another, and I suspect that is the case here, that the Zebralight engineers made a conscious decision to only allow cells of a certain voltage for a reason. 

I don't pretend to have any real understanding the kind of circuits involved to provide that kind of flexibility, but it seems to me that if somebody was interested, all they would have to do is contact Zebralight and either suggest it or ask why it isn't being included in their current lineup of lights.


----------



## CarpentryHero (Jan 14, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> really? a cell that has two & a half times the capacity of the best 14500 doesn't have enough juice? you got to be kidding. have you ever used a Foursevens Quark or Eagletac D25C2 w/ a Sanyo 16650? but nevermind the 16650, it's just 2mm anyway...
> 
> to reiterate for the hundredth time, all i'm saying is zebralight missed the chance to offer 2x CR123A capability with this newest zebra. given the technical parameters i.e. 320 lumens, they could've done it without any compromises. easily. that's FLEXIBILITY which's ALWAYS A GOOD THING
> 
> ...



Yes, if you packed cr123 instead of extra batteries for the light you bring? That's poorly packing  
Double a 14500 is what 700mah? So 1400 mah? Most 18650 I have are 2900-3400mah. 


Im not resistant to the ideas your laying down, I just don't like how screwanized Zebralight is with every release. 
The sc62 looks like it'll be a good light, and laying out what could make it better before it's in people's hands. Well I wonder how Zebralight sleeps at night, wondering how many more models they need to come out with to make their market happy. 

They need to sell more of the lines they make, to get there costs down. I think they push a lot into R&D, enough so that it may hurt the growth and production.


----------



## CarpentryHero (Jan 14, 2014)

Long story short, I don't think they need to dabble on every battery configuration to make me happy, I'd love it if they did. I don't want them running themselves out of buiseness trying.


----------



## LeukTech (Jan 14, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> really? a cell that has two & a half times the capacity of the best 14500 doesn't have enough juice? you got to be kidding. have you ever used a Foursevens Quark or Eagletac D25C2 w/ a Sanyo 16650? but nevermind the 16650, it's just 2mm anyway...
> 
> to reiterate for the hundredth time, all i'm saying is zebralight missed the chance to offer 2x CR123A capability with this newest zebra. given the technical parameters i.e. 320 lumens, they could've done it without any compromises. easily. that's FLEXIBILITY which's ALWAYS A GOOD THING
> 
> ...



For all we know having this ZL accept voltages for two CR123's would severely impact the efficiency, brightness, or whatever. And in that case, I say no thanks. 

However if both battery setups could work with no loss in efficiency, brightness, or whatever, then I personally wouldn't have a problem with it. But I'll place my bet on ZL not doing it for a good reason.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 15, 2014)

CarpentryHero said:


> Yes, if you packed cr123 instead of extra batteries for the light you bring? That's poorly packing
> Double a 14500 is what 700mah? So 1400 mah? Most 18650 I have are 2900-3400mah.
> 
> 
> ...




haha well as i said not everyone has dozens of 18650s. CR123A is a great backup power source there's no disputing that

sanyo's 16650 is actually 2100mah (2.5x the sanyo 14500 840mah). i just love the D25C2 which runs off of this cell, and also 2x CR123A  smaller slimmer lighter than any 18650 flashlight. so i was just thinking out loud what sort of awesome supercompact they could've built around this cell

but don't get me wrong im a huge zebra fan it's just that after the technological masterpiece that is the PID thermally regulated h600 mk2 (and sc600 mk2 L2), this new sc62d is rather ummm underwhelming. 

personally i won't be buying this model. luxeon T just isnt a good enough reason. the emitter is cheap and readily available, i might as well just mod an existing XPG flashlight...the sc62d doesn't bring anything new to the table anyway...



LeukTech said:


> For all we know having this ZL accept voltages for two CR123's would severely impact the efficiency, brightness, or whatever. And in that case, I say no thanks.
> 
> However if both battery setups could work with no loss in efficiency, brightness, or whatever, then I personally wouldn't have a problem with it. But I'll place my bet on ZL not doing it for a good reason.



NOPE. a buck-only can be efficient both ways. eagletac D25LC2. matches sc600 in 18650 efficiency. class-leading in 2x CR123A 












*graphs by SELFBUILT
source thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?338908


----------



## CarpentryHero (Jan 15, 2014)

Fair enough OverClocker, I always thought that size of light was a shame since it's soooo close to fitting an 18650  




all entitled to our own opinions, that's what makes this forum great.


----------



## marinemaster (Jan 15, 2014)

Looks like your D25LC2 is better than SC62d in any imaginative way, it should better hide from you.


----------



## Bullzeyebill (Jan 15, 2014)

Overclocker are those selfbuilt's graphs in post 205?

Bill


----------



## jruser (Jan 15, 2014)

Does anybody know if this will have pwm?


----------



## Ryp (Jan 15, 2014)

jruser said:


> Does anybody know if this will have pwm?



I highly doubt it.


----------



## tonkem (Jan 15, 2014)

None of the other Zebralights have PWM, so by using that information, I would say Absolutely NO 



jruser said:


> Does anybody know if this will have pwm?


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 15, 2014)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Overclocker are those selfbuilt's graphs in post 205?
> 
> Bill



yep with the famous "flashlightreviews.ca" on the lower right corners 

but i've also added the source thread to the post...


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 15, 2014)

tonkem said:


> None of the other Zebralights have PWM, so by using that information, I would say Absolutely NO



some of the earlier ones did have PWM on certain modes


----------



## Bullzeyebill (Jan 15, 2014)

Overclocker said:


> yep with the famous "flashlightreviews.ca" on the lower right corners
> 
> but i've also added the source thread to the post...



+1. Thanks,

Bill


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 16, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> Don't feed the trolls.





marinemaster said:


> Looks like your D25LC2 is better than SC62d in any imaginative way, it should better hide from you.



you've tried to make your point but they just don't hold so stop trolling


----------



## Derek Dean (Jan 16, 2014)

So, I decided to go to the source for direct information. I found this correspondence with Zebralight interesting and quite enlightening:


*Customer*
1/15/2014 9:50:48 PMHowdy,
We have been having a discussion on CPF (An internet flashlight forum) about the upcoming release of the new SC62d and some folks were speculating why you don't use a circuit that allows the use of 2 CR123 primary batteries as well as the one 18650? 

I know you're busy, but if it's not to much trouble I was hoping you could provide an answer and allow me to publish it on the forum. 

Thanks, and I'm looking forward to the new SC62d (I've pre-ordered). 

Sincerely, 
Derek Dean



 *Staff (Administrator)*
1/16/2014 12:58:45 AMLED drivers in the SC600 and H600 can all be revised to support two CR123 batteries without any impact on performace. However we are more concerned about the safty with two cells under high current and high temperature, especially in headlamps, and decided not to do so. The SC62d shares the same driver with other 18650 lights, and hence no 2CR123s.


----------



## turkeylord (Jan 16, 2014)

^ This forum needs a "Thanks" button.


----------



## marinemaster (Jan 16, 2014)

Good info. It goes to show that ZL knows what they are doing. I'm with them 100%


----------



## Swede74 (Jan 17, 2014)

I just read in the SC600 MK II thread that Zebralight has confirmed that "the switch is now soft". If I understand correctly, the switch manufacturer, not Zebralight, changed the design. What do you think, does this mean the SC62d will also suffer from the accidental activation issue that plagued the earlier SC-models? I certainly hope not; the soft switch is the only reason my SC51 is not part of my EDC rotation. 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Light-SC600-MkII/page53&p=4362249#post4362249


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jan 17, 2014)

Could be mistaken, but I don't think people are saying this new, softer switch is causing unintentional activations (at least I sure hope not)


----------



## markr6 (Jan 17, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Could be mistaken, but I don't think people are saying this new, softer switch is causing unintentional activations (at least I sure hope not)



I agree. The earlier models did not have a recessed switch, and it was about twice the size, hence the accidental activation. So while I don't think these soft, recessed switches will be a big problem, they WILL be more likely to turn on when compared to the harder switch.


----------



## Overclocker (Jan 17, 2014)

Derek Dean said:


> So, I decided to go to the source for direct information. I found this correspondence with Zebralight interesting and quite enlightening:
> 
> 
> *Customer*
> ...




yep exactly why i said sc62d missed the chance to offer 2x CR123A support. at 320 lumens it wouldn't trip PTCs from over-current. but they simply took the H600 driver and flashed a different firmware, so you'll end up having (and paying for) that advanced PID driver under the hood but wouldn't be able to use it 

as for "performace" i.e. lumens, i'm sure zebra could pull it off. but as for EFFICIENCY i'm not so sure. don't forget that the SC52 has been optimized for AA so 14500 efficiency isn't the best. the buck/boost Spark SL6 could use BOTH 18650 and CR123As but overall efficiency suffers

but of course i realize that the sc62d isn't gonna be high volume seller so ZL figured not to devote too much R&D with a new driver. a wise business decision.


----------



## RedForest UK (Jan 18, 2014)

markr6 said:


> I agree. The earlier models did not have a recessed switch, and it was about twice the size, hence the accidental activation. So while I don't think these soft, recessed switches will be a big problem, they WILL be more likely to turn on when compared to the harder switch.



Whilst they will theoretically be more likely to turn on than the older harder switch, I really can*'t* see it being a problem with it so recessed as it is. 

The main issue with the switch change is simply the feel of it. There's still a clear click, but the tactile feedback isn't as strong as it used to be and so takes a bit of getting used to for mode changing. That said, it is easier now when held in an overhand position and using your index finger for mode switching. 

I'd say the closest thing to the new switch that I have is the little button on the top of my phone (HTC one S) for putting it into standby and turning it on. There's a little click, but it's soft and the travel of the click doesn't seem quite as far either. It's actually a bit closer to the D40A type switch than some of the older Zebras.


----------



## Swede74 (Jan 18, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Could be mistaken, but I don't think people are saying this new, softer switch is causing unintentional activations (at least I sure hope not)





markr6 said:


> I agree. The earlier models did not have a recessed switch, and it was about twice the size, hence the accidental activation. So while I don't think these soft, recessed switches will be a big problem, they WILL be more likely to turn on when compared to the harder switch.





RedForest UK said:


> Whilst they will theoretically be more likely to turn on than the older harder switch, I really can'*t* see it being a problem with it so recessed as it is.




You three wise men have put my worries to rest, for the time being. :thanks:


----------



## Dr.444 (Jan 18, 2014)

Saw this at Zebralight website 2day ...

SC62d High CRI Daylight tint 18650 Flashlight

LED: Philips LUXEON T (Typical CRI: 85, Norminal CCT 5000K)

High: H1 *320* Lm (3 hr) !






Price:$85.00 , Availabilityre-order !
....................................


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jan 18, 2014)

On January 10, 2014 (Post #85) you will see that our fine member-friend, Swede74, first reported this good news. We all need to remember though, that a flashlight in-the-hand, far surpasses any number of release announcements from ZebraLight. 

Who will be the first to report a real, live SC62d in THEIR hand?


----------



## bltkmt (Jan 31, 2014)

I pre-ordered as well and sent an email to them asking about shipping dates. They said "the lead time is four weeks", whatever that means. Flashaholism does not take kindly to lead times!


----------



## markr6 (Jan 31, 2014)

Ahhh I actually forgot I ordered one of these until this thread bump! The waiting beings..._again.

_Almost February 10. Will it ship next Monday? Not counting on it, but I hoping to be surprised!


----------



## JKolmo (Feb 9, 2014)

I just got a shipping notice for my SC62d! Zebralight on time, on the date!


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Feb 9, 2014)

JKolmo said:


> I just got a shipping notice for my SC62d! Zebralight on time, on the date!



Where are you? When did you order?


----------



## LeukTech (Feb 10, 2014)

JKolmo said:


> I just got a shipping notice for my SC62d! Zebralight on time, on the date!



Nice! No shipment confirmation for me yet, although I ordered somewhat recently (1/27).


----------



## JKolmo (Feb 10, 2014)

I ordered on January 10. Shipping is for Europe. I'm looking forward to this one!


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Feb 10, 2014)

Ordered 1/9 in USA, no email yet.


----------



## markr6 (Feb 10, 2014)

Ordered 1/9/14 at 9am. Nothing yet...


----------



## Glock27 (Feb 10, 2014)

*Customer*
2/6/2014 12:07:37 PM Do you still anticipate shipping these on the 10th?



 *Staff (Administrator)*
2/9/2014 9:57:27 PM International orders will be shipped on the 10th. U.S. orders will be shipped about one week later.


----------



## marinemaster (Feb 10, 2014)

Thanks for the info.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Feb 10, 2014)

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!


----------



## markr6 (Feb 10, 2014)

Obvious abreviated expletive removed. Family forum.  Oh well, I've waited this long another week won't hurt. It is nice to know.


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Feb 10, 2014)

Glock27 said:


> *Customer*
> 2/6/2014 12:07:37 PMDo you still anticipate shipping these on the 10th?
> 
> 
> ...



Now I don't feel the need to check email every break from work. Thanks.


----------



## LeukTech (Feb 10, 2014)

Glock27 said:


> *Customer*
> 2/6/2014 12:07:37 PMDo you still anticipate shipping these on the 10th?
> 
> 
> ...



Excellent, thanks for the info!

Shame US orders have to wait a week, but it makes sense. Int orders likely being shipped direct from China, US orders are probably shipped from Texas once they receive the order from China (which likely shipped out today as well). 

I'll keep an eye on the thread in case any International customers get theirs soon! And don't skimp on the details!


----------



## e-tom (Feb 11, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> Excellent, thanks for the info!
> 
> Shame US orders have to wait a week, but it makes sense. Int orders likely being shipped direct from China, US orders are probably shipped from Texas once they receive the order from China (which likely shipped out today as well).
> 
> I'll keep an eye on the thread in case any International customers get theirs soon! And don't skimp on the details!



Exactly! 
+ 
"Shipping to continental U.S. takes about 2-4 days" 
versus 
"International orders are shipped in 2-6 weeks".


----------



## markr6 (Feb 11, 2014)

markr6 said:


> Obvious abreviated expletive removed. Family forum. Oh well, I've waited this long another week won't hurt. It is nice to know.



OOPS! Sorry I figured that was equivalent to all the "wtf's" on the forum.

I'm really anxious to see the 5000k on this LED. I really like the temp on my PD32UE that I've estimated to be 5000K as well. Hopefully it's somewhere close to that. I like my Zebralights, but for me the 'w' versions lean towards too warm, if anything.


----------



## Bullzeyebill (Feb 11, 2014)

I'll watch for those too. LOL

Bill


----------



## Glock27 (Feb 11, 2014)

Looks like they'll land in Europe before the US.....We expect Beam Shots!
G27


----------



## Derek Dean (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm happy to see I'm not the only one looking forward to this light . 

+1 on those beamshots, and if possible, set your white balance to "Daylight" please.


----------



## marinemaster (Feb 12, 2014)

Does anyone know when the SC32d suppose to be release ?


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Feb 14, 2014)

Seems like we would see more reports of shipping notifications internationally. What does this say?


----------



## Diablo_331 (Feb 15, 2014)

Has anyone heard from Zebralight if they plan on making a SC52c/H52c or SC32c/H32c? I recently lost my SC51c which, after gluing an o-ring around the switch to eliminate accidental "hot pockets", became my all time favorite EDC. I love the old 4000k Rebel and I'm just hoping that they don't forget about the warmer HI-CRI emitter fans out there.


----------



## Thujone (Feb 17, 2014)

Any international recipients yet? Really looking forward to some pics/beamshots..


----------



## JKolmo (Feb 17, 2014)

No trace of it yet. Guess it's still in Shanghai, or maybe mid air.


----------



## markr6 (Feb 18, 2014)

I was gone this past weekend and out of cell/data service...I was hoping to see an email ship notification when I got back yesterday but nothing yet 

Dying to get this or at least see some pics!


----------



## marinemaster (Feb 19, 2014)

All lights manufacturers have delays so I rather wait for ZL to do it right. In the mean time the 18650 have been fully charged on the Pila IBC charger


----------



## LEDburn (Feb 19, 2014)

Mine is sitting at home awaiting my arrival tomorrow afternoon!
I am working about 3 hours away and was very tempted to go home tonight and get it but seeing as tomorrow is the last day out here, I will wait. 

I'm sure there would be some people willing to drive 9 hours in a little over 24 hours to have theirs though


----------



## LeukTech (Feb 20, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Mine is sitting at home awaiting my arrival tomorrow afternoon!
> I am working about 3 hours away and was very tempted to go home tonight and get it but seeing as tomorrow is the last day out here, I will wait.
> 
> I'm sure there would be some people willing to drive 9 hours in a little over 24 hours to have theirs though



:thumbsup:

Since you seem to be the only one in this thread who will have one soon in your hands, I hope you will not skimp on the details! We're talking pictures and most importantly, as accurate as possible beamshots (setting your camera to daylight) and detailed descriptions of the tint! Outdoors and indoors beamshots as well! And perhaps some comparisons to a Nichia 219 if you have one. 

Yeah, probably asking too much, but hey doesn't hurt to ask! :twothumbs 

Just don't be one of those kinds of people who posts "It's a great light, I love it". 

Details... details.. details! keep in mind most of the ones purchasing this light are tint snobs, otherwise why purchase this when much more powerful XML versions are available?


----------



## markr6 (Feb 20, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> Just don't be one of those kinds of people who posts "It's a great light, I love it".



I still say those are lies 95% of the time!


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Feb 20, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> :thumbsup:
> ... keep in mind most of the ones purchasing this light are tint snobs...



No need for name calling! How about color challenged? Or light spectrum special needs?


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## markr6 (Feb 20, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> No need for name calling! How about color challenged? Or light spectrum special needs?



LOL proud of it! If tint wasn't such a big deal, those names wouldn't even exist.


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## marinemaster (Feb 20, 2014)

Ledburn did you get an email with shipping notification ?


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## LEDburn (Feb 20, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> Ledburn did you get an email with shipping notification ?



Sure did. Feb 10th at 12:32pm Australian time. 
I ordered it within the first few hours of it going on pre-order though whether or not that makes a difference.

I will have it in my hands in about 4-5 hours hopefully. In any case, it will definitely be before the night is over! (4:30pm now)
I only have a Galaxy S4 as a 'camera' unfortunately but find it pretty decent for close up comparisons. The few settings there are seem to enable me to capture an image that looks close to the same on screen as it does next to the light. How it translates to a calibrated monitor, I do not know.
Either way I am sure whatever I can provide will do till someone with a sweet camera gets one so watch this space!

I have a SC600w L2, SC52w, H52fw and a H600fw L2 amongst others to compare to. Might even do a SC52 comparo as well. 
No 219 here yet.. Almost got that multi-emitter 219 ET light but a new car (and more ZL's) are more important at the moment.

I would say within 12 hours I will hopefully have something for you all! The Mrs is 2 days late with our first kid however, so anything could happen. I really doubt that involves a trip to the hospital, more just doing lots of things for her and having to deal with a ton of her pain (it hurts me in the form of whingeing about something I have no control over.)


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## LeukTech (Feb 21, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> No need for name calling! How about color challenged? Or light spectrum special needs?



lol, well that would suggest something may be wrong with our eyes, which couldn't be further from the truth! Our eyes are so fine tuned we can notice even the most subtle nuances in tint. 

How about "Color rendering aficionados with emphasis on neutral electromagnetic spectrum analysis?" CRAWEONESA.


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## LEDburn (Feb 21, 2014)

Quick update and appologies for no pics as of yet; finally got home at 11pm last night and the weather was horrible. After a week long heat wave, the weather changed (happens here when you drive from the coast to the mountains) as I neared home. Imagine fog so thick you drive at less than half the speed limit! 

Anyway, that was a bummer but not as much as finding out my SC62d flickered on the L2 lows just like my first H52fw!! High seemed ok so played around with that for a bit but due to a sore and tired Mrs, I called it a night as the discovery of this flaw was also a major downer.

I was lying in bed for a bit this morning and was simply stumped as to why this had happened again. What was even more puzzling was the fact that when my second H52fw arrived, the first one coincidently stopped playing up! 

Time to clean the crap out of the contacts then!! Some CRC contact cleaner was liberally applied to the tailcap and the part of the body which makes contact was also cleaned quite well. After inspecting the tailcap it appeared quite different: there must have been a TON of lube down near the gold ring as it now seems to work perfectly fine :shrug: 
Strange as I didn't really clean the H52fw that well. These lights must simply be really sensitive to dirty contacts..


Anyway, just thought I should share that just in case someone else notices this 'defect,' perhaps they simply get a little too heavy handed when applying lube sometimes. Would hate for someone to send their light back, like I almost did, just because it needs a clean. Generally I only lube my lights if they arrive dry or gritty. Seems now I will always CLEAN and then RE-LUBE from now on 


Size wise it obviously sits between the SC52 and SC600, but to me feels so much better than both of them in my hand. I hate the clips and always remove them ASAP but this time the screws were that tight (and softish) I rounded one a little. Being an electrician and having multiple sizes of screw drivers, I think I am adept enough at using my tools to realize when too much mechanical force was applied for a given size screw. These were simply waaay too tight and can see problems if you do not use the right sized screw driver. Heck, I did and still had problems! (Another warning there)

The output, beam profile and tint really surprised me. Compared to my SC52 and SC600 L2 (tighter hot spot than original SC600) hot spot is nice and tight :naughty: Just a quick test inside shows it appears to have very similar Lux to SC52w @ 500L with almost 200L less when shining at objects about 10-15m away.

Af first it appeared quite cool compared to SC52w which is also very similar to my SC600w L2 but when shining on some bricks outside the mortar appeared whiter (compared to a yellowy-green) and colours still seem very good or better. I concluded there needs to be more time spent comparing the two emitters but for now am really impressed!

I will try and get some pics of the lights beside each other during the day and maybe some shots of the beams against a wall (no white ones here) to compare the difference in hot spots. 

I really think this light could be perfect for EDC at this point. Perhaps a different emitter with more output to cater to some, but size wise it is ideal IMHO and the added runtime an 18650 grants over a 14500 is also a major factor. I found myself still carrying my SC52w a few weeks after getting my SC600 L2 but cannot imagine that to be the case for long 

I'll keep you all posted. The weather today is looking good, hopefully can get outside tonight for some pics..!!!


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 21, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Sure did. Feb 10th at 12:32pm Australian time.
> I ordered it within the first few hours of it going on pre-order though whether or not that makes a difference.
> 
> I will have it in my hands in about 4-5 hours hopefully. In any case, it will definitely be before the night is over! (4:30pm now)
> ...



Thanks and all the best for you and your family.

Comparison video as well as shots? Just tell us how the tint is different than the recording, if so, Please. 

Utterly no notifications here in USA

Signed, one of those CRAWEONESA's


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## LEDburn (Feb 22, 2014)

Finally got some pics for everyone! The shot comparing the beams is between a SC52w and both lights are on L1 about 6 inches from the wall. Tint comparison is not fair to what I see for either light so is just useful as a reference for the differences in hot-spot size.

The flickering issue I observed on the L2 lower lows (lowest and second lowest but not third lowest seem affected) seems to have come back and this time I ruled out dirty contacts or bad tail cap as I swapped my SC600w L2 tail over and nothing changed so bridged it with some copper wire and still had flickering. 
I am hoping, like my H52fw did, that this will resolve itself too. No other modes seem affected so can only assume the electronics are bad and can't supply such small currents so easily (???) but it shouldn't bother me for a while. I don't go lower than the highest L2 usually and seeing as, at this time, it is working fine, I will hold off on a return for a replacent until stock availability resolves itself  ...or if more modes begin to play up..


Anyway, hopefully I got the bad sample and everyone elses' is trouble free!!

This light rocks! Not overly fussed on the emitter choice - it's a toss up betweeen the nice rosy H52fw tint and this as to which is my favourite - but the ergonomics are absolutely spot on if you ask me!
The switch is the lightest and quietest of all my ZL's and does lack a bit of feel but you do get used to it. I wonder if they are all like this? I would probably prefer a switch feel similar to my SC52w as it is a little firmer but at the same time I am glad it is quieter than my SC600w L2 switch!

If this had the same rosy XM-L2 that the H52fw (and even H600fw L2) has and a bit more output, like maybe 600-750L, then I would easily call it my favourite light. Last night I found myself reaching for the 600 more than once for a nice blast of light. 
The fact this emitter does produce a tighter hot-spot allows it to keep up with the SC52w albeit with a bit less spill, but compared to the SC600w L2, it has no chance!

If you guys have any questions then hit us up! I tried to get beam shots but failed due to some fog which just would not cooperate with my beast of a camera haha. Hopefully some size comparisons will do 

EDIT: almost forgot, there is very little, if any, tint deviation between the centre of the hot-spot to the outer spill. Beam profile is a little nicer than an XM-L in this respect.

https://imageshack.com/i/3orx3sj
https://imageshack.com/i/5bqiquj
https://imageshack.com/i/gv7rifj
https://imageshack.com/i/7gjgq9j


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 22, 2014)

Many, many thanks. Looks good and good for you. Feel free to update us on the family situation as we also wish the best for that. And if you don't want to, that is OK as well.


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## Derek Dean (Feb 22, 2014)

A fine report, LEDburn. Thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts and the photos.


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## markr6 (Feb 23, 2014)

WOOOOOW that thing is small!!!! The product photos are always misleading but I didn't think it would be that close to an SC52. Can't wait to get mine!!

BTW, looks like the soft switch is here to stay. Not happy with that, but not a deal breaker either. I'm used to it after my silent SC600w II.


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## LeukTech (Feb 23, 2014)

Thanks LEDburn for the impressions and pics! That is a very small light, I have the original SC600w (which is bigger than your MKII) so I will be getting a real treat in terms of an even smaller 18650 light!

Good to hear it has a somewhat tighter beam, because since it doesn't have the raw power of an XM-L, a more focused beam will make the best use of it's lumens. I imagine the hotspot size will be similar to my SC51c and FourSevens Q123 (now outfitted with a Nichia 219). And glad to hear that the tint variation across the beam is nice and even, as that is one of the things I dislike most about XM-L emitters. Purple spill with a yellow hotspot is not very appealing to the eye! The 219 has the even tint down pat, so I look forward to comparing the 62d to my 219's in that regard.

Now the beam comparison you did raises a few flags, as I detect a bit of green in the 62d's tint. In this color temperature range the possibility of getting a greenie starts to grow significantly, and I sure hope that is not the case and was just the camera biasing the colors. 

How does it look to you? Does it appear to just be a perfect white, or is it very slightly yellowish-white? From the sounds of it (and looks based on the picture) the bin will likely be in the upper half, so a 3C or 3B (preferably 3C, cause 3B would have too much green). Otherwise if it's on the bottom half of the range (3D or 3A) it would have a purplish tint to it. 

And just like the others, I still haven't gotten any shipping notification yet (US). But Most likely will be next week.


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## Derek Dean (Feb 23, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> And just like the others, I still haven't gotten any shipping notification yet (US). But Most likely will be next week.


 It's always nice to meet an optimist .


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## JKolmo (Feb 24, 2014)

It has arrived! A very nice light indeed. Useful pocket size and clip. Darker anodizing than previous ZLs. Greener tint than a Nichia 219 bit still OK.


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## JKolmo (Feb 24, 2014)

And here are some crappy beam shots.

From left to right: Malkoff MDC neutral, Eagletac D25c ti N219, Malkoff m62 N219, L10 N219, SC62d and SC52w. All on high.


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## JKolmo (Feb 24, 2014)

From left to right: Eagletac D25c ti N219, SC62d and SC52 green, duuhh sorry SC52w.


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## JKolmo (Feb 24, 2014)

And finally, against a McGizmo Mule Nichia 119v (SC62d on medium).


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## JKolmo (Feb 24, 2014)

...and against a Prometheus Beta QR copper N219 (SC62d to the left on medium). Pls note that the wall is not white.


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## markr6 (Feb 24, 2014)

Thank you for posting those comparisons...and a nice variety too! Nichia 219 always makes other lights look unflattering, so hopefully I'll like it in person. The size of the SC62d looks perfect to me. No shipping confirmation yet.


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 24, 2014)

Great beam comparisons! Not sure but, The tint looks potentially excellent to me. Yes the 219 tint I have is wonderfully even but some of us prefer a more, neutral, white is white, instead of making brown dirt look prettier under torch. Hope remains. If the tint is closest in post 271 or the last post then it will be worth the reduction in lumens.

Is the clip exactly like the SC52? How about the low, lows; any blinking?


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## JKolmo (Feb 24, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Is the clip exactly like the SC52? How about the low, lows; any blinking?



Exactly, the SC62d clip is identical to the SC52 clip.

No blinking/flickering at all. Only gripe would be a slightly off centered emitter, but it doesn't have any real world effect on the beam whatsoever. The light has a pretty tight hot spot so it's a welcomed addition to my other floodier applications. Not much of a thrower though, so my Malkoff Hound Dog shouldn't
be too worried in that respect...

Hope you guys receive yours within short!


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## JKolmo (Feb 24, 2014)

I could also add that given the nice tint in a perfect size package with the awesome ZL UI and the long runtimes, to me and IMO, this light is a must have. 

Maybe I should also mention that I asked ZL for a nice tint specimen and informed them that I'm picky with tint when placing my order. Don't know if it made any difference, but it's quite an attractive tint in my example. Can't wait until it's getting dark here in Europe!


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## marinemaster (Feb 24, 2014)

J thanks for the review 

when did you get the email notice ?


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## Ares (Feb 24, 2014)

JKolmo said:


> Maybe I should also mention that I asked ZL for a nice tint specimen and informed them that I'm picky with tint when placing my order. Don't know if it made any difference, but it's quite an attractive tint in my example. Can't wait until it's getting dark here in Europe!



Heh, I did the same. I haven't even gotten a shipping notice yet, though. I placed my order on Jan. 9th.


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## LEDburn (Feb 24, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> ...
> Now the beam comparison you did raises a few flags, as I detect a bit of green in the 62d's tint. In this color temperature range the possibility of getting a greenie starts to grow significantly, and I sure hope that is not the case and was just the camera biasing the colors.
> 
> How does it look to you? Does it appear to just be a perfect white, or is it very slightly yellowish-white?
> ...



I don't own a decent camera so those were just taken on my S4 and both the beams show a tint in the pic that is not what I am actually seeing in real life. 

The SC62d is much whiter, probably the closest emitter I have to an actual white when used to illuminate a white object. Almost absent of tint to the naked eyes IMHO. The SC52w of mine definitely has a tint but nowhere near as green as the pic suggests. 
Do also remember those pics were taken with both lights on L1 and as I am sure you're aware, tint shifts at lower outputs on current controlled lights, generally towards green I have found.

I still maintain the ergonomics and feel of the light in your hand is something else entirely! It is simply amazing to hold.


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## LeukTech (Feb 25, 2014)

Wow, thanks JKolmo for all the pics! Love the fact you have so many 219's to compare against, as it really gives a good tint representation that many of us are very familiar with. :twothumbs

Based on these compares, I think we can safely assume the 62d is a *lot* cooler in tint than a 219. I worry it will appear as if it is cool-white until it is actually compared to a cool-white light. I know when I got a nailbender XP-G2 dropin at 5000k 3D tint bin, that was most certainly the case. And I didn't like it one bit. Couldn't shake the fact it was a 5000k until I whipped out a cool-white emitter to directly compare against, then it was night and day. But with no comparison, it felt like a cool-white tint when in normal use. 

I'm crossing my fingers on this one and hope that when I see it with my own eyes I will fall in love with the tint. Either way the size comparison to a SC600w is incredible! So even if the tint isn't perfect, the miniature size of the light should hopefully be more than enough for me to accept it. 



Derek Dean said:


> It's always nice to meet an optimist .



lol, well it is already a week past their claimed ship date and Europe orders have already shipped (and some already received direct from China). So it should be this week sometime for US orders... I hope.  




LEDburn said:


> I don't own a decent camera so those were just taken on my S4 and both the beams show a tint in the pic that is not what I am actually seeing in real life.
> 
> The SC62d is much whiter, probably the closest emitter I have to an actual white when used to illuminate a white object. Almost absent of tint to the naked eyes IMHO. The SC52w of mine definitely has a tint but nowhere near as green as the pic suggests.
> Do also remember those pics were taken with both lights on L1 and as I am sure you're aware, tint shifts at lower outputs on current controlled lights, generally towards green I have found.
> ...



This brings my enthusiam up a bit, as even a 219 doesnt quite make a white object look pure white (although it's pretty darn close!). And yeah, lower modes do tend to shift towards green. But the 219 for me was about as much green as I could take in it's lower modes, and Dean even filtered his 219's to get rid of that green. So the 62d might have some nails in its coffin if it goes greener than a 219 in its low modes.


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## 18650 (Feb 25, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> Wow, thanks JKolmo for all the pics! Love the fact you have so many 219's to compare against, as it really gives a good tint representation that many of us are very familiar with. :twothumbs Based on these compares, I think we can safely assume the 62d is a *lot* cooler in tint than a 219. I worry it will appear as if it is cool-white until it is actually compared to a cool-white light. I know when I got a nailbender XP-G2 dropin at 5000k 3D tint bin, that was most certainly the case. And I didn't like it one bit. Couldn't shake the fact it was a 5000k until I whipped out a cool-white emitter to directly compare against, then it was night and day. But with no comparison, it felt like a cool-white tint when in normal use. I'm crossing my fingers on this one and hope that when I see it with my own eyes I will fall in love with the tint. Either way the size comparison to a SC600w is incredible! So even if the tint isn't perfect, the miniature size of the light should hopefully be more than enough for me to accept it. lol, well it is already a week past their claimed ship date and Europe orders have already shipped (and some already received direct from China). So it should be this week sometime for US orders... I hope.  This brings my enthusiam up a bit, as even a 219 doesnt quite make a white object look pure white (although it's pretty darn close!). And yeah, lower modes do tend to shift towards green. But the 219 for me was about as much green as I could take in it's lower modes, and Dean even filtered his 219's to get rid of that green. So the 62d might have some nails in its coffin if it goes greener than a 219 in its low modes.


 I think it's fair to say if you have owned or seen the previous gen emitter used on the H502d, you'd know what to expect from this one.


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## Thujone (Feb 25, 2014)

I know it seems to be a stock answer from ZL but they told me that there is a 2 week wait from yesterday for US orders. Take that for what its worth.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Feb 25, 2014)

Thujone said:


> I know it seems to be a stock answer from ZL but they told me that there is a 2 week wait from yesterday for US orders. Take that for what its worth.




:mecry:


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## Thujone (Feb 25, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> :mecry:



I am guessing it a conservative estimate in case they get held up in customs... *fingers crossed*


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## marinemaster (Feb 25, 2014)

Thujone said:


> I know it seems to be a stock answer from ZL but they told me that there is a 2 week wait from yesterday for US orders. Take that for what its worth.



Will wait
Thanks for the info


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## LEDburn (Feb 25, 2014)

18650 said:


> I think it's fair to say if you have owned or seen the previous gen emitter used on the H502d, you'd know what to expect from this one.



Not at all. 
The H502d has a glow in the dark disk around the emitter which definitely gives the beam a green hue. The difference between the SC62d and H502d is quite dramatic.


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## 18650 (Feb 25, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Not at all. The H502d has a glow in the dark disk around the emitter which definitely gives the beam a green hue. The difference between the SC62d and H502d is quite dramatic.


 I think that's a stretch. There's a bit of yellow around the very edge of the wide spill but the middle looks pure white.


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## LEDburn (Feb 25, 2014)

18650 said:


> I think that's a stretch. There's a bit of yellow around the very edge of the wide spill but the middle looks pure white.



Go compare a H502d and a SC62d then. 

Granted, the edges are even more yellow than the centre but overall the beam appears to be yellow/green in comparison to the SC62d.


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## Ares (Feb 26, 2014)

Mine shipped today! I ordered Jan. 9th. :twothumbs


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## Glock27 (Feb 26, 2014)

Mine shipped today also. Ordered on Jan. 9th. I was about to get agitated with the typical poor communication.......and then a tracking # shows up.
G27


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## bltkmt (Feb 26, 2014)

Mine too!


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 26, 2014)

ditto

I ordered a few hours after it was first reported on cpf that the SC62d was available for preorder.


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## markr6 (Feb 26, 2014)

YES! Ordered Jan 9 @ 9:45am...shipped today as well.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Feb 26, 2014)

Ordered 1/9 as well, but not until 9:45 PM. Fingers crossed for shipping today.


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## Erik1213 (Feb 26, 2014)

I also ordered on the ninth but have yet to receive shipping information. C'mon guys, I'm getting antsy.


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## Brasso (Feb 26, 2014)

Received shipping notice today as well.


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## 18650 (Feb 26, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Go compare a H502d and a SC62d then. Granted, the edges are even more yellow than the centre but overall the beam appears to be yellow/green in comparison to the SC62d.


 I just took out the H502d and snapped a few photos of a white sheet of paper with camera locked to 5000K white balance. The eye dropper tool in PS confirmed what my eyes were telling me. The RGB values were dead even (or within 1 or 2) for the entire central portion of the beam with a bias towards R and G at the very edge of the spill circle.


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## LeukTech (Feb 26, 2014)

Nothing for me yet  

Although I ordered on Jan 27th, so it might be quite a while before mine ships.

Either way quite a few people got shipments, which is great! Can't wait for some more impressions, pictures and even a review or two. :twothumbs


P.S. How do you like my optimism now, Derek?


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## Glock27 (Feb 26, 2014)

My tracking # went Active! Probably won't land in my hands till Monday...
G27


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## Ares (Feb 27, 2014)

Mine shipped from Texas at midnight. Will probably be delivered on Monday too. But that's better than when I thought it wouldn't even ship 'til next month!

EDIT: Mine updated with an estimated delivery date - I'll be getting mine this Saturday as well!


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## markr6 (Feb 27, 2014)

Mine will be delivered this Saturday and mail usually comes around noon! Weekends have been busy lately but I don't have anything going on this Saturday so I look forward to checking this out! I probably shouldn't have hyped myself up so much about this light...expectations are too high now


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 27, 2014)

Couldn't find anything on ZL website regarding lux for this torch. Don't remember if anyone speculated what it might be. Can anyone say what it is? 3000cd?

Expecting Saturday.


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## Glock27 (Feb 28, 2014)

My package arrived a day earlier than first estimate! Smaller and lighter than the SC60! Reflector appears larger and deeper. Tint is much cooler than SC60w. Survived initial washing/ submersion! Spring for Positive terminal is a huge improvement. Had to adjust clip for more grip.

G27


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## Glock27 (Mar 1, 2014)




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## Lithium466 (Mar 1, 2014)

Nice! Now I want one...
Hmmm a Sc62c will be perfect for me, thanks


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 1, 2014)

Nice pics, still no shipping notice for me, odd. Ordered the day they came avail for pre order.


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

Just got mine as well! Here are a few pics. From left to right, the SC600w MkII L2, H600w (1st gen), SC62d, and SC52w. Out of all of them, I love the SC62d's tint the best! http://imgur.com/a/dTRLx


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

Unfortunately, I've already found a bug, though... the very lowest low mode doesn't work properly. It flickers in and out. I've noticed ZebraLights (especially the SC600 series) have trouble with low modes. Both my SC600w and SC600w MkII L2 won't always turn on in the lowest mode. They "come on" but no light emits out of the LED. You can tell because double-clicking it puts it into L1 instead of M1 or M2 (which it would do if it were actually off).

Anyway, the SC62d seems fine as long as I don't program the lowest low mode into the menu. I'll just use the second lowest mode. It will take forever to mail it out and get another back, if the last two lights I ordered are any indication...

I'm okay with this, though. The lowest low mode is really too "low" for me, anyway. The tint is too nice not to keep it!

Video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vylvo6950dwk2mo/2014-03-01 11.11.59.mov

And yeah, before anybody manages to point it out... that's my toilet in the background. I needed a really dark room, what can I say? hahaha 

EDIT: Well, actually, the second L2 mode also exhibits the problem. The highest L2 mode does not, nor does L1. I'll wait a few days and decide on whether or not I want to send it back. Ugh. I'm torn - if I send it back, I might get a crappy tint in return. >.<


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## Etsu (Mar 1, 2014)

Ares said:


> EDIT: Well, actually, the second L2 mode also exhibits the problem. The highest L2 mode does not, nor does L1. I'll wait a few days and decide on whether or not I want to send it back. Ugh. I'm torn - if I send it back, I might get a crappy tint in return. >.<



2 broken modes? Yeah, I'd send it back. It could be a sign that more modes might break in the future. Tint is only worthwhile if the light actually works.


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

Sigh. You're right. ZebraLight could use some better quality control. They make amazing torches... if you manage to get one that works. I likely won't see a replacement for 2-3 months either. I've had to send two others back (one defective, one with a terrible tint) and that's about how long it took. I kept my original SC600w though - I just make sure not to leave it on the lowest low mode, so it will always turn on when I need it in a "low" mode.

Oh well. I think I'll use it for a week or two then send it back. I'd really prefer to wait until they actually have some SC62d's in stock. It takes long enough as it is...


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## treek13 (Mar 1, 2014)

Ares said:


> Unfortunately, I've already found a bug, though... the very lowest low mode doesn't work properly. It flickers in and out...
> EDIT: Well, actually, the second L2 mode also exhibits the problem. The highest L2 mode does not, nor does L1. I'll wait a few days and decide on whether or not I want to send it back. Ugh. I'm torn - if I send it back, I might get a crappy tint in return. >.<


Did you see LEDburn's post about having the same trouble?

He cleaned up the contacts & it fixed the problem. If you don't have contact cleaner, try using alcohol.


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

Yes. Did you see his next post?



LEDburn said:


> The flickering issue I observed on the L2 lower lows (lowest and second lowest but not third lowest seem affected) seems to have come back and this time I ruled out dirty contacts or bad tail cap as I swapped my SC600w L2 tail over and nothing changed so bridged it with some copper wire and still had flickering.
> I am hoping, like my H52fw did, that this will resolve itself too. No other modes seem affected so can only assume the electronics are bad and can't supply such small currents so easily (???) but it shouldn't bother me for a while. I don't go lower than the highest L2 usually and seeing as, at this time, it is working fine, I will hold off on a return for a replacent until stock availability resolves itself  ...or if more modes begin to play up..



It seems he and I have the exact same problem. I wonder if anyone else will have this issue?

I haven't heard of a torch "fixing itself" like his H52fw did, but I'm going to hold off for a couple weeks and use it as my EDC to see if I can get the same result. Might leave it on all night in the lowest L2 mode to see if that has any effect too. :shrug:


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## markr6 (Mar 1, 2014)

GOOD STUFF!!! Actually EDC-able! If they decide to throw an XM-L2 neutral white in this thing, my SC600w II will nearly be put out of commission!







Damn near spot on with my L10 w/ Nichia 219A and Xeno E03 w Nichia 219 (sorry no photo yet)

But here's one with my SC600w II (L), SC62d (M), PD32UE (R). Dirty cell phone camera, but give you somewhat of an idea. All area actually pretty close in person (none of that cool white blue crap!)


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

Do your lowest and second lowest L2 settings flicker, out of curiosity? Especially the lowest mode.


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## markr6 (Mar 1, 2014)

Ares said:


> Do your lowest and second lowest L2 settings flicker, out of curiosity? Especially the lowest mode.



Actually I just tried programming all the levels and they work fine. Sorry to hear about that on yours...bummer. Probably worth sending back even though the wait can make you anxious.

The lowest low is definitely the LOWEST of all my Zebralights. And I thought it was useless on my SC600w and SC52w. Probably too low to be of any use even for *reppans*! :laughing: So I won't be programming that at all. Probably the one in the middle seems good.

My beamshots above suck and are not very representative of the actual tint. Here's a better comparison between SC62d and PD32UE (what I like to base everything on since it's a perfect 5000K in my opinion). I think anytime two lights are side by side in same frame, the tints get thrown off no matter what white bal setting you choose. This is in my garage with a bit of ambient light behind and to the right of me. About 20' away.







For comparions, Nichia doesn't count since it IS perfect  BTW, when I compare it with any of my Nichia 219, there is a bit more coolness or "bluish-green" in the SC62d, but just a little. VERY close. *This is a KEEPER for sure.*


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

Glad to hear you don't have the flickering problem. It's definitely a keeper, if I can just manage to fix it or get a working replacement lol. I'm very, very pleased with the tint. It's my favorite out of every torch I've owned thus far. Oddly enough, I usually prefer warmer tints - around 4200K. But this one just looks_ right _:thumbsup: haha.


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## Brasso (Mar 1, 2014)

Mine arrived today. I am very impressed with the tint. I'm a warm tint guy and was worried that this would be too cool for me, but it is very neutral. No blue. Like a 219 but without the pink/rose tones. Just, white.


Kudo's to Zebralight. I do believe they've hit another one out of the park with this model.


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## marinemaster (Mar 1, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Nice pics, still no shipping notice for me, odd. Ordered the day they came avail for pre order.



Im in the same boat.


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## turkeylord (Mar 1, 2014)

markr6 said:


> GOOD STUFF!!! Actually EDC-able! If they decide to throw an XM-L2 neutral white in this thing, my SC600w II will nearly be put out of commission!


+1, still hoping for a SC62w L2 


Thanks for all the pics, looks great!


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 1, 2014)

Y'all are killing me, but thanks for all the feedback!!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 1, 2014)

It is a great light. The tint is more pleasing to me than a nailbender XML2 T6 3C dropin because there is less yellow around the corona that is ONLY noticeable when examining a white wall closely. Seems like it is very slightly on the side of warm from dead-on neutral.No hint of green on mine. And none of the enhanced browns one gets when using the Nichia 219 that I have. It is slightly warmer than my Sportaclight triple XPG2 and considerably warmer than my Nightcore P12. The last two are my favorites, until now.

The light levels are surprisingly close to the nailbender and P12, except for the 'Turbo'. In the field, I will have another torch that throws, for those times when 'reaching out' is needed.

The build is good, the charcoal grey anodizing matches on the body and tailcap. The tip of the clip stands off of the body maybe a little less than a mm. It seems to work fine with the shirt pocket I am wearing. So lightweight; really nice size.

What other manufacturer ships their lights with grease on the threads? That is nice.

What other manufacturer has an alternate, low, low light level that is so low? 

Right now, there is a high drain, AW 2000 mAh red 18650 in the light that I have been using at the highest light level. The whole flashlight is getting quite warm but not too hot to handle. It is mounted on the long lasting, glow in the dark, ZebraLight headstrap on my head. The run time so far seems very good. I do turn it off once in a while to see how it performs on the lowest low setting. So far, I am still getting flickering. After using a goodly amount of contact cleaner on both tailcap and positive end, I was hoping that if the torch was run on high for a while the lowest low might start to behave. So far, no. The second lowest low is fine and is the setting I always used before with an sc52. Seems like the lowest low would be good for a 'find the flashlight in the pitch dark' but otherwise... I tried it with completely dark adapted eyes with the sc52 before and you can see things, but it is just not necessary for me. I'm keeping this puppy. 

It it has been so great to get back to the ZL user interface.

EDIT: just looked at the ZebraLight website: the SC62d is still back order. Looking at the specs, they are listing three options for L2.


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## LEDburn (Mar 1, 2014)

Ares said:


> ...
> 
> 
> It seems he and I have the exact same problem. I wonder if anyone else will have this issue?
> ...



It is unfortunate, but it seems that I am not alone with the flickering L2 modes.
It seems I have the exact same issue with the lowest low as you do; at first it would mostly stay lit and flicker off quite a bit but now I can turn it on in the lowest L2 and it will still appear to be off; double clicking will reveal it wasn't as L1 will come on.

I thought my second lowest L2 was fine (like you are sure yours is, KTROBASKIN) but holding it a few centimetres away from a wall revealed otherwise. 
Have a try and let us know if yours is indeed flicker free on the middle L2 mode if you can please?

My H52fw appeared all good for a few weeks until I went to test the middle L2 and noticed some flickering, further investigations revealed the lowest low had serious flickering issues on both Li-ion and NiMh. 
I was so gutted as the tint, size and output were all spot on! I decided to order another and return this when it arrived as the other modes all worked fine..
I emailed ZL and they said about a month was the expected lead time so hunted around and found one from IS that arrived in Australia a week or so later. 

It was at this point I put the other one aside and figured I would send it sometime when I had time. I had the other one from IS for about 3 weeks to a month when I was out walking one night using the light and it just stopped working. I was literally using it on M1, turned it off as I wanted H1 and it simply would not turn back on. Tried different cells, tailcaps, cleaned it, NOTHING WORKED! It will still flash when a battery is inserted but the switch just will not do anything.

I had grown quite attached to my H52fw by this point so worked out I now would have to send the one from IS back, wait for another and in the mean time use the one from ZL with the flickering L2 modes. At least I still had a H52fw I thought when I went to fire the old one up. Decided to test the lowest low and to my surprise IT WAS COMPLETELY FLICKER FREE ON ALL L2 MODES!! Yessss, it fixed itself!! 

That was about 6 weeks ago now and has been completely fine with daily use on all modes. I occassionally test all the L2 modes (probably once or twice a week) and have NOT ONCE noticed any flickering at all. Weird.


The moral of that long story? My SC62d is now sitting with no cell in it on my shelf where I will try and leave it for a day or two. When I said mine was working again it had probably been sitting with no cell for about 12 hours or so and seemed to work for most of the day so maybe, just maybe, this will resolve things. If so I might just let it 'settle' for a little while longer like my H52fw. Otherwise I will be contacting ZL to see if I can buy a new one, wait for it, and send the old one back for refund as they don't cross ship like 4sevens used to. 

I really don't want to be without this light. It really is that good otherwise!!


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## Erik1213 (Mar 1, 2014)

WTF. Everyone is playing with their new SC62d's and I'm just sitting here waiting on a shipping notice. I ordered the thing on the 9th.


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> I thought my second lowest L2 was fine (like you are sure yours is, KTROBASKIN) but holding it a few centimetres away from a wall revealed otherwise.
> Have a try and let us know if yours is indeed flicker free on the middle L2 mode if you can please?



My second lowest L2 does indeed flicker, although it isn't as noticeable. The lowest L2 is essentially unusable, as seen in my video.



LEDburn said:


> The moral of that long story? My SC62d is now sitting with no cell in it on my shelf where I will try and leave it for a day or two. When I said mine was working again it had probably been sitting with no cell for about 12 hours or so and seemed to work for most of the day so maybe, just maybe, this will resolve things. If so I might just let it 'settle' for a little while longer like my H52fw. Otherwise I will be contacting ZL to see if I can buy a new one, wait for it, and send the old one back for refund as they don't cross ship like 4sevens used to.



Well we have one person leaving it on the highest setting and you leaving it on a shelf without a cell, in an attempt to fix the flicker - so I will go ahead with my plan of leaving it flickering on the lowest setting for a day or two and see what that does. Maybe we can crowdsource an answer! Though I suspect the answer is "send it back or deal with it."



LEDburn said:


> I really don't want to be without this light. It really is that good otherwise!!



Same here. You know it's good when people don't even want to send it back when it's defective. :thumbsup:


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 1, 2014)

Got a chance to go outside finally. It is the best tint I have! The triple XPG2 Sportaclight dropin looks a little coolish but not bad. The Nitecore P12 is more cool. The nailbender XML T6 3C makes green pine trees look greener but everything is warm, not bad, mind you. The sc62 is a tad warm but just pleasing. And this is coming from a person who prefers moonlight over firelight.

Regarding the second lowest low: I did not know L2 has 3 options. It seems sometimes I have 3 options but most times not, but that could easily be me. Right now, I could not get three options for L2. It excluded the flickering lowest low. But I had just before the programming, chosen the flickering lowest low and it was useable as a 'find me' in a pitch black setting but still flickering. 

It is early in the game for this torch and I hope those reading this take that into account. Thanks to LEDburn for detailing his previous issues. Valuable information.


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## Ares (Mar 1, 2014)

Here's some night shots. First time trying this, so here goes nothing. They were all shot on manual at f2.8 1/25 1600 ISO with the "sunlight" white balance.

SC600w MkII L2:






SC52w:





SC62d:





Obviously the SC600w MkII L2 blows the other two out of the water, but I have to admit, the SC52w surprised me. It looks much brighter than the SC62d - both on film and in person. I dislike the green tint, though. I think the SC62d might throw further, but I don't have anywhere to test that right now. The tint of the SC62d is the most pleasing and neutral, which I think you can tell in these shots. I'll have to fiddle around with camera settings another night. Going to hit the sack now.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 2, 2014)

Middle of the night, bladder evac, second lowest low: perfect.

Programmed lowest low, light would not come on L1 unless press and hold to go through the whole cycle. Bit of a challenge to program back to second lowest low: then it exhibited lumen variation, not really a flicker, more like vacillating between two closely spaced settings in a random pattern, fairly low 'frequency'. Left light on by bed, low to the floor. The variation soon disappeared. Left the light on the rest of the night. Kept on checking it, no more variation. Still good in the morning. 

I am staying away from lowest low except to once in a while (monthly?) check for function. Second lowest low is what I used with the SC52 and is best for me on the SC62.

Today I have removed the battery and will let sit until late tonight, after having read LEDburn's experience.

While checking for flicker on second lowest low earlier last night, as requested, I placed it very close to a white wall and saw a little green. It is not a big deal at all. The tint is really nice. The only 'warm' tint I have that is nice for inside the house with all the white walls. Just my opinion. My EDC is an MBI HF with a Nichia 219 and it is a very nice tool for quick use. The tint is pleasant, just quite warm for my tastes. We all know how many, knowledgeable members here love the 219.

Thanks Ares for the outdoor pictures. I zoomed the images and turned off the room lights to see better. For those new to this: The ZebraLight SC52 with a freshly charged Lithium Ion 14500 sized battery will shine brighter than the SC62d for about a minute before stepping down. This can be repeated but as the battery depletes, the bright setting will only stay on a short while, going down to a few seconds and then not at all.


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## markr6 (Mar 2, 2014)

After comparing my SC600w II L2 and SC62d some more, I basically decided they are both perfect tints. If pressed into choosing just one tint though, I think it would still be the SC600w because of the slightly warmer tint which I like. Regardless, I can tell the higher CRI on the SC62d and objects are clearly whiter, even if it's a subtle difference. Even more on the low modes.

If Zebralight would make a SC62w, AND I was guaranteed a matching tint to my SC600w, I would definitely give up a little CRI for more output. But I'm guessing the smaller head would get hot and require a quick step-down like the SC52w. If so, it would not be such an easy sell.

Either way, I think ZL would be crazy not to offer a SC62 and SC62w!


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## marinemaster (Mar 2, 2014)

Does AW18650 protected black fits ? if anyone has one to try


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 2, 2014)

I have used protected 3400's from EagTac, ZebraLight, and Keeppower. Two of the Keeppowers were very tight, diameter wise, but length was not a problem.


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## Ares (Mar 2, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> The ZebraLight SC52 with a freshly charged Lithium Ion 14500 sized battery will shine brighter than the SC62d for about a minute before stepping down.



Ahh good point! Forgot about that part. Yeah it's about 500 lumens with a 14500 if I remember correctly, which would explain why it outshines the SC62d in the pictures. I wonder why ZebraLight didn't do that for this torch? Perhaps they will for the SC62 / SC62w? I rather like the extra brightness.

I love the tint on this torch, but I do find myself missing the floodiness of a typical ZebraLight. This one is much more focused than the others I own.


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## LEDburn (Mar 2, 2014)

Quick update regarding the flickering L2 modes:

Left my SC62d on the shelf with no battery for about 12 hours yesterday and then last night when I put one in and turned it on, ALL modes worked perfectly fine! 
About 10 minutes into my walk I tried the L2 modes only to find the lowest low had returned to it's mostly-off-but-still-flickering state and the middle L2 mode would still stay on but flickered quite a bit.


As I have said previously, the flickering issue seems to be the exact issue as I experienced with my H52fw. After not using it for some time the flickering issue completely disappeared on its own.

This led me to thinking two things: leave the H52fw on long enough and it may begin to flicker again; leave a battery out of the SC62d long enough and the flicker may go away for good! 

I decided to leave the H52fw on the lowest low overnight to see what happened. I was really worried I may reintroduce the flickering but it was a test that had to be conducted anyway. 
I actually had a really bad sleep last night so got plenty of chances to see the H52fw still going at it with no sign of any flickering!! Still on the lowest low this morning, no flickering!

SC62d has been at home all day with no battery since last night (20 hrs or so now) so will test it again tonight and report back when I can.


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## e-tom (Mar 3, 2014)

Hello flashaholics!

My SC62d has problems with turning on L1 mode.

L1 does not turn on every 2nd time:
- with long press L1 goes on, with short press off, everything ok;
- next long press and nothing happens (L1 is actually "on" because double-click turns on L2), short click and it "turns off";
- long press and light goes on, short click off, normal again;
- long press and nothing happens. I can make many long presses, but nothing happens until I "turn off" the light.

With longer press and hold it turns on M1 and cycles thru all 3 modes.

If light is on L2, everything works fine. Long press turns on L2 every time.
Seems like a program bug - so maybe present on other lights also?

No flickering on any mode.


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## Ares (Mar 3, 2014)

The night before last I left mine on the lowest L2 mode and it completely "burned out" by morning - no detectable light whatsoever. Last night I left it on the middle L2 mode and today it no longer flickers at all and the lowest L2 mode has returned and barely flickers at all (but it does still flicker).

Will keep experimenting and report back!


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## LEDburn (Mar 3, 2014)

e-tom said:


> Hello flashaholics!
> 
> My SC62d has problems with turning on L1 mode.



This is the first time this issue has been raised. 
There are several users with flickering L2 levels, mainly the lowest low and second lowest low. Are your lower L2 levels flicker free?

I left mine sitting without a battery for over 24 hours and now the lowest low seems flicker free. I am at the hospital waiting for our first baby so have only had it on the lowest low but that has been going for about 4 hours now and each time I check (I have plenty of time waiting for the Mrs to come out of theatre) it is still going with no sign of any flickering.

Will keep and eye on it and use the higher levels a bit when I can to see if it affects it but at this stage I am feeling pretty confident it may have fixed itself like my H52fw also did!! 

Maybe, and this is about the only answer I have at this stage (presuming it has fixed itself) the electronics need a little bit of time to settle that they just aren't getting. Maybe they are just too keen to get them to us so they never get that bit of time to rest before going to work!


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## markr6 (Mar 3, 2014)

I’m a big Zebralight fan and luckily I have had no issues on any of the 8+ lights I purchased.

Unfortunately, every time I order one I still feel like it’s a "cross your fingers and hope for the best" situation. Will it even turn on? Flicker? Will it be waterproof? What’s the anodizing going to look like? Will it be a hard or soft switch? All the things that never crossed my mind when purchasing a Fenix or other brand.

So I better keep knocking on wood! Hopefully replacements will come quickly to those that request them and an easy fix for Zebralight in the future.


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## LEDburn (Mar 3, 2014)

markr6 said:


> I’m a big Zebralight fan and luckily I have had no issues on any of the 8+ lights I purchased.



Same here until recently. 

In the last 3-4 months I have purchased and received a SC600w L2, H600fw L2, two H52fw's, and a SC62d. 

The headlamps all had similar switches in terms of feel and audibility; the SC600w L2 has really good feel but is also the loudest of all my ZL's (almost as loud as a forward clicky); the SC62d has the quietest switch but also seemed to have very little feeling at first. 
I have gotten used to all the switches now and prefer either the SC62d or one from my SC52w which is quite firm with good feedback but is also pretty quiet.

Every light listed above has the newer anodizing which I really like and across the board it also seems to be fairly consistent.

SC62d and one of the H52fw flickered (it has since resolved itself, hoping SC62d has too) and one H52fw seems to have an electornics/switch issue and still needs to be returned; that light no longer switches on at all.

For what it's worth, I never had any issues with any of my ZL's with the older olive green ano.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 3, 2014)

Has anyone else received shipping notifications?? Ordered first day and still none...


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## Ares (Mar 3, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> For what it's worth, I never had any issues with any of my ZL's with the older olive green ano.



My olive green original SC600w had a strange bug where it wouldn't turn on in the lowest low mode if you held it just right (or, wrong, I suppose). If it was a little upside down, it wouldn't come on. Leaving it programmed to L1 would essentially "fix" that problem, so that's what I did. It's still my favorite torch I think, even though I gave it to my dad when I got the MkII L2. I loved the 4200K tint. Luckily I still have my original H600w and have no desire to upgrade it! Never had an issue with that one.

I still can't get my lowest L2 mode to work on my SC62d, back on topic. I guess I'm going to have to try your method of leaving it alone for a day or two. That's tougher than it sounds, you know. I just got this thing and I want to play with it haha.


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## marinemaster (Mar 4, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Has anyone else received shipping notifications?? Ordered first day and still none...



PSM same here but ordered Feb 10
Given some reports with flickering I am hoping the Second "batch" does not have these issues, so I rather wait.


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## OneBigDay (Mar 4, 2014)

I ordered an SC62d the day the pre-order notice came out. I just cancelled today. What a steaming pile of dung this pre-order and take the money for 2 months is.

I am familiar with waiting for a custom light, but this is a production product. No communication is often the straw that breaks the camels back for me. Let me know what's going on without me having to beg for it, and I can be quite patient.

To Zebralight's credit, they refunded my money within a few hours with no questions asked and an apology for the wait.


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## markr6 (Mar 4, 2014)

OneBigDay said:


> I ordered an SC62d the day the pre-order notice came out. I just cancelled today. What a steaming pile of dung this pre-order and take the money for 2 months is.
> 
> I am familiar with waiting for a custom light, but this is a production product. No communication is often the straw that breaks the camels back for me. Let me know what's going on without me having to beg for it, and I can be quite patient.
> 
> To Zebralight's credit, they refunded my money within a few hours with no questions asked and an apology for the wait.



Yeah I still don't know why they announce them so early, then only fill a portion of the pre-orders. Then mark most of their store as "Out of Stock" or "Backorder" for just as long or even longer!?!?!

Just produce a shload of them, announce the new product, wait a couple weeks if you must build hype, then fill all the orders!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 4, 2014)

Those familiar with ZebraLight's past performance should not be surprised about what is happening with the SC62d. It is consistent, although none of us likes it. That is how ZebraLight is, take or leave it. I really like mine even though I am dealing with fluctuation in output at very low levels-- still working on it.


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## Etsu (Mar 4, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Those familiar with ZebraLight's past performance should not be surprised about what is happening with the SC62d. It is consistent, although none of us likes it. That is how ZebraLight is, take or leave it. I really like mine even though I am dealing with fluctuation in output at very low levels-- still working on it.



You should not have to "work on it". Very low lows is Zebralight's unique strength. All modes should work out of the box!

They seem to be screwing up the release of the SC62d on several different levels. Somebody needs to run that company better.


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## markr6 (Mar 4, 2014)

Etsu said:


> You should not have to "work on it". Very low lows is Zebralight's unique strength. All modes should work out of the box!
> 
> They seem to be screwing up the release of the SC62d on several different levels. Somebody needs to run that company better.



Even though I LOVE my SC62d and it works perfect, I totally agree. Hopefully the issues are limited to just a small group.


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## LEDburn (Mar 4, 2014)

It's only early but I am going to claim that my SC62d is now 'fixed' and completely bug free. 

I let mine sit for over 24 hours (more like 30) without a battery and occassionally come and clicked/held the switch just in case it helped. 
When we had to go to the hospital on Tuesday morning around 2 a.m, I decided it was time to give the SC62d another shot so loaded a battery in, clicked on and programmed it to the lowest low and left it on in my pocket. Every time I checked it, it was still on with absolutely no flickering. This was over about 12 hours. I then set it to the second lowest low and left that on for a couple of hours and nothing wrong either.

I went for a little walk on my own last night and used H1 and all the levels down to L1 a fair bit and when I got home, reprogrammed it to the lowest low and left it on overnight. That was 7.5 hours ago and it is still lit and completely flicker free. At this point I will cease testing and just use it. For the first few days I will likely check the L2 levels but after that, probably once or twice a week. If any flickering comes back, I will be right on here to let you all know.


I don't know how long your SC62d will need to sit without a battery and it is still a tad early to be absolutely certain mine is fixed. After my H52fw fixed itself it has seen some serious use without the issue showing up again though, so I am fairly confident it is!!!


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## LEDburn (Mar 4, 2014)

Etsu said:


> You should not have to "work on it". Very low lows is Zebralight's unique strength. All modes should work out of the box!
> 
> They seem to be screwing up the release of the SC62d on several different levels. Somebody needs to run that company better.



I'm just an electrician so these electronics aren't my strong point; my mate however, is a micro electronics engineer, so I asked him what he thought the go was.

As I suspected (mostly due to my own testing and experiences) he believes there must be something to the absence of a battery making it work properly. He believes a capacitor (maybe many) is involved somewhere in the circuitry and that sometimes they can take on a 'funny charge' and thus the circuit may show signs of a issue or fault, however, if the capacitor is fully discharged, then when it is properly energized again, everything will seemingly work fine.

The 'funny charge' is obviously from the factory and during normal business (i.e. not much demand) the product will sit for days or weeks waiting to be sold and in this time any capacitors will likely discharge and no ill effects noticed by the end user..


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## Etsu (Mar 4, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> I'm just an electrician so these electronics aren't my strong point; my mate however, is a micro electronics engineer, so I asked him what he thought the go was.
> 
> As I suspected (mostly due to my own testing and experiences) he believes there must be something to the absence of a battery making it work properly. He believes a capacitor (maybe many) is involved somewhere in the circuitry and that sometimes they can take on a 'funny charge' and thus the circuit may show signs of a issue or fault, however, if the capacitor is fully discharged, then when it is properly energized again, everything will seemingly work fine.
> 
> The 'funny charge' is obviously from the factory and during normal business (i.e. not much demand) the product will sit for days or weeks waiting to be sold and in this time any capacitors will likely discharge and no ill effects noticed by the end user..



Maybe... though a capacitor should drain in a few minutes, not days. My guess is that it's weak conductivity somewhere, maybe the tailcap connection, or a loose component somewhere? A low current isn't strong enough to properly conduct through the weak point? Just a guess.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 4, 2014)

Etsu said:


> Maybe... though a capacitor should drain in a few minutes, not days. My guess is that it's weak conductivity somewhere, maybe the tailcap connection, or a loose component somewhere? A low current isn't strong enough to properly conduct through the weak point? Just a guess.



Tailcap connection? Time to apply some Deoxit Gold and see if it solves the problem!!!


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## Ares (Mar 4, 2014)

I've let mine sit for about 24 hours now. It no longer flickers on the 2nd L2 level, and it flickers less on the lowest L2 level (but it still flickers). Going to let it sit another 24 hours and see what happens.

I asked ZebraLight if there was anything they recommend for me to do, and I just got an RMA number in return. I'll ship it out Friday if it isn't working by then. :sigh:


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 8, 2014)

UPDATE:

Tried different things, including letting it sit for 30 hours without battery. Set on lowest low, it still will not come on in L1 unless it is cycled through all primary levels first. The flickering on lowest low is still there at times. If left on for a while it did seem to be fixed but trying it later, the flickering resumed. Personally, that is not a big deal for me as the lowest setting will not be used unless needed as a flashlight locater.

If left on for a while, the second lowest low works as it should; steady. When first activating it, there are still a few times when lumen fluctuation is evident but not much. That is a bit of a disappointment BUT there is no way I'm sending it back unless something gets significantly worse. 

It is hoped and expected that future SC62d's will not have this issue. Comparing my two previously favorite night hike lights, this light surpasses in all the important aspects. With the addition of a companion, compact thrower, it will be what I need. The tint is much more natural than the Nichia 219 that I have. The XML2 T6 3C looks nice but is not as comfortable as the ZL. My Triple XPG2 S2 is wonderfully white but it too 'looks' like the light from a flashlight. Imagine you could bottle the daylight from a smooth, lightly overcast day. Perhaps someone will come up with a better description for the quality of light emanating from this ZebraLight.


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## marinemaster (Mar 8, 2014)

I did not get mine yet but the TINT report sounds good so far


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## Ares (Mar 9, 2014)

I've managed to let mine sit for 24hrs twice now and though the flickering lessened it did not go away. Tomorrow will be three days, and I will try again. If it doesn't work, I'm sending it back. It seems everyone loves the tint and that's the #1 reason I'm afraid of sending it back. But if the tints are all being reported as excellent, then I may as well get a replacement!

I may very well cry if I get a crappy bin back though LOL


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## RedForest UK (Mar 9, 2014)

Have you been clicking the switch when the battery is removed? I think that may help.


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## Glock27 (Mar 9, 2014)

I don't see how leaving the light off will change anything. I've ran my light hard though since I got it, cycling several batteries per day through it. I'm a "Burn electronics in" person!
I finally tried and mine doesn't flicker at any of the lowest programmable levels.

I used to prefer Neutral tint, but I'm afraid this HCRI has spoilt me!

G27


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 9, 2014)

If there are capacitors involved that would benefit from being discharged, I decided to close the circuit with no battery, just wire. I actuated the switch numerous times, in numerous ways. No change. Then I put the DMM on milliamps setting and completed the circuit, once again pushing the button in the different ways prescribed for mode change. Seemed like one time I did get a very brief reading but nothing otherwise. The flashlight improved but not completely fixed.

Photo taken with companion compact thrower and general purpose torch (using the body from my aged, beloved SureFire U2 with a GID triad tailcap) plus an extended battery capsule (All from the fine, prompt, competent folks at Oveready.com) That is an emergency, spare length of 1 inch gorilla tape on the delrin nylon capsule, which has a compass inside the lid and a place for a thermometer on the base of the capsule. Shock cord lanyard (my son's favorite colors) on the general purpose torch and 550 cord glow-in-the-dark from Lighthound.com on the capsule. All of these take a single 18650 cell.

photo hosting courtesy of flashlightguide.com Thanks Jim


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## Derek Dean (Mar 9, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> The tint is much more natural than the Nichia 219 that I have. Imagine you could bottle the daylight from a smooth, lightly overcast day.


Now that sounds nice. Thanks for your continued observations.


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## markr6 (Mar 10, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Imagine you could bottle the daylight from a smooth, lightly overcast day. Perhaps someone will come up with a better description for the quality of light emanating from this ZebraLight.



I agree. Leaning towards "cool", but not in the usual blue sense of typical cool whites. Yesterday I compared the SC62d with the diffused daylight hitting the ceiling (window blinds were tilted so the light was mostly reflected off the snow). It was a perfect match side by side. Nichia 219 was a little warmer, which I prefer for everyday use.


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## marinemaster (Mar 10, 2014)

It seems that Lumileds now Philips, always had better "regular" led tint compare to Nichia "regular" led tint since way back when Luxeon 1 and 3 were in mainstream use.


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## Ares (Mar 10, 2014)

Well I let it sit, with the tail cap screwed on, since the 4th (it's now the 10th), and the light still flickers in both the lowest two L2 modes. Yes, both modes still flicker. I give up, I'm sending it back.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 10, 2014)

Going on a trip the 25th of this month. Would like to take this light. Anyone have word on release???


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## Thujone (Mar 10, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Going on a trip the 25th of this month. Would like to take this light. Anyone have word on release???



Today is 2 weeks since they told me two weeks. So I reposed the question and am waiting for the latest delay estimation.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 10, 2014)

Thujone, if you would be so kind to post their reply here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.


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## marinemaster (Mar 11, 2014)

Same here even that given the flickering reports i rather wait.


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## LEDburn (Mar 11, 2014)

Ares said:


> Well I let it sit, with the tail cap screwed on, since the 4th (it's now the 10th), and the light still flickers in both the lowest two L2 modes. Yes, both modes still flicker. I give up, I'm sending it back.



Did you allow yours to sit with no battery and not operate it at all for the whole 6 days?
I'm not saying yours would have worked if you had left it but I do believe there is something to an extended rest period. Granted, mine came good after about 30 hours of rest so there are obviously some lights which either require more rest or are downright faulty and seemingly can't be fixed. 

I think it's pretty disappointing that this appears to be an issue that IS NOT model specific. I have had a faulty H52fw and now this SC62d (which is still 'fixed' btw) and there have even been reports of at least one SC600 L2 so you would think ZL would have worked this out and ensured it doesn't happen in any more lights by now!

Has anyone returned a light yet that exhibits this behaviour? 
Perhaps they can't pinpoint the problem because by the time they get it and examine it, it has had sufficient rest and appears to operate correctly.


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## e-tom (Mar 11, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> UPDATE:
> 
> Set on lowest low, it still will not come on in L1 unless it is cycled through all primary levels first.



Maybe your light also does not turn on L1 every second time?
See my post #334...
?


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## markr6 (Mar 11, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> Same here even that given the flickering reports i rather wait.





LEDburn said:


> I think it's pretty disappointing that this appears to be an issue that IS NOT model specific. I have had a faulty H52fw and now this SC62d (which is still 'fixed' btw) and there have even been reports of at least one SC600 L2 so you would think ZL would have worked this out and ensured it doesn't happen in any more lights by now!



I don't think waiting would help at all. My SC62d is perfect and I'm sure there are many others making up the huge majority. But given ZL reports in the past, time doesn't always mean a solution. If it's a light you want, or want to try, I say go for it. Just rolling the dice and hoping for the best Like everything else unfortunately.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 11, 2014)

e-tom said:


> Maybe your light also does not turn on L1 every second time?
> See my post #334...
> ?



This sc62 is not experiencing the dysfunction described in post #334. There are times when I am trying to change the light setting and it will not function correctly or will not come on at all. Another try and it will do it. It is hard to say for sure whether or not my button pressing has been 'proper' so I'm not that worried about that, as long as it does not get worse. For that matter, the switch, for me, is something I am OK with. Hopefully it is durable. 

I continue to take an active approach toward improving this issue but will probably try an extended rest at some point. I just really like this light and the second lowest low fluctuation in brightness is occasionally distracting but does not impair the task at hand.

Night before last I took a 5.5 hour hike in the big mountain. The forest is dense. The SC62 performed admirably. Also took a compact Oveready host outfitted with a Sportaclight triple XPG2. That torch was perfect for putting up a wall of light when maximum viewing was wanted. Also took the Nitecore P12 and used it 1/3 into the strenuous walk. Without a doubt, even after about 30 minutes of use, all I wanted to do was get the sc62 back on. The P12 had a somewhat washed out, not natural cast on the forest when compared with the ZL. (Although not nearly as much as the cool XML's in my Nitecore TM26, which I was not carrying at the time) The XPG2 triple, with its welcome brightness, was tolerable in its somewhat stark cast, and its brief use.

The really long functional runtime and light weight comfort of the SC62d is undeniable.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 11, 2014)

End of photo session. Back to work.






Once again, thanks to Jim at flashlightguide.com for hosting this image.


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## Ares (Mar 11, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Did you allow yours to sit with no battery and not operate it at all for the whole 6 days?
> I'm not saying yours would have worked if you had left it but I do believe there is something to an extended rest period. Granted, mine came good after about 30 hours of rest so there are obviously some lights which either require more rest or are downright faulty and seemingly can't be fixed.
> 
> I think it's pretty disappointing that this appears to be an issue that IS NOT model specific. I have had a faulty H52fw and now this SC62d (which is still 'fixed' btw) and there have even been reports of at least one SC600 L2 so you would think ZL would have worked this out and ensured it doesn't happen in any more lights by now!
> ...



I let it sit for 36 hours and it didn't fix it, though it helped. So then I let it sit for a little over 5 days and again, it didn't fix it. If anything, it made it worse. I actually noticed more of a reduced flicker after 36 hours. It's actually flickering *more* after letting it sit for 5 days. Just boxed it up and mailed it back a few minutes ago. Sigh.


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## Etsu (Mar 11, 2014)

Ares said:


> I let it sit for 36 hours and it didn't fix it, though it helped. So then I let it sit for a little over 5 days and again, it didn't fix it. If anything, it made it worse. I actually noticed more of a reduced flicker after 36 hours. It's actually flickering *more* after letting it sit for 5 days. Just boxed it up and mailed it back a few minutes ago. Sigh.



Here's how to fix the problem:

Collect these items: your light, a fully charged battery, a depleted battery, a glass of lightly salted water, and a bar magnet.

Remove any battery from your light, and place the light in between the bar magnet and the glass of salted water. The water should be luke warm. Do not let any of these objects touch!

Let sit for 4 minutes. Then, carefully place the charged battery into the light, while maintaining the light between the magnet and the water. Screw the cap tight, and let sit for 6 minutes.

Then, remove the charged battery and replace it with the depleted battery. This must be done within 45 seconds! Do not remove the light from between the water and magnet.

Let sit for 4 minutes. Again, remove the battery and let sit for 6 minutes.

Then, place the charged battery into the light. Let sit for 5 minutes. Then, pour half the salted water out of the glass. Place glass back into position and let sit for another 5 minutes.

Then, remove the glass of water. You must do this first! Following that, remove the bar magnet.

Cycle all mode on the flashlight. You must do this as a programming step. Start from highest mode first, working your way down to dimmer modes. By the time you get to the lowest mode, it should now work!

Oh, be advised that you should do this only on a Tuesday or Thursday morning, and it must not be sunny outside.

Good luck!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 11, 2014)

Don't forget the incantations.

You know some of our members may be just a tad jealous or are otherwise working out their own flashlight fetish. I don't think anyone here is going to stake their life on a ZebraLight SC62d. Where I work we have Apple desktops, laptops and tablets. We got a shipment of I think 12 laptops recently, one simply will not boot up. Does that mean one of the most successful companies during our time has an 8 percent failure rate? We have other Apple units that mess with your sanity. 

I applaud anyone who is willing to try to get their light to function as advertised and even more so if they have the courage or willingness to describe their experiences. Alas, there are some members who like to express their discouragement with the world onto our interest in flashlights. Or perhaps, if it is not a perfect SureFire or, ahem, HDS then it is inferior drivel unworthy of consideration. Maybe some members will 'fess up and reveal the motivations behind their statements and humor. And please, take chances and relate your experiences so we can all benefit.


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## LEDburn (Mar 11, 2014)

Ares, it sucks to have to return a light which you really like. 
Please update with how long you waited for it to be returned to you, if the new unit exhibits the same problems and roughly how the tint compares to the first?

I must just have really good luck (and bad!?) because I have now had two Zebralights with the exact same flickering issues on the lowest and second lowest low (H52fw and SC62d) and thanks to some time off, both are now completely flicker free! I will continue to check the SC62d but as I have had the SC52fw running fine now for well over 2 months with about 40-50 battery changes, I am fairly sure the SC62d will be the same!


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## Thujone (Mar 11, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Thujone, if you would be so kind to post their reply here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.



"Five business days" to the next batch arriving.


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## Derek Dean (Mar 11, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Or perhaps, if it is not a perfect SureFire or, ahem, HDS then it is inferior drivel unworthy of consideration.


First, NO light is perfect. Not Surefire, HDS, Malkoff, Elzetta, or Zebralight. As we've stressed time and time again on this forum, the best way to assure yourself of having light when you need it is to carry at least two lights, with three being even better. Anybody who thinks their light can't fail is tempting fate, in my opinion. 

It's why I have TWO backup drives for all my computer information. If my main drive goes down, I can immediately start using my backup drive and STILL have another backup drive to cover that one, just in case. 

Same with flashlights, and why I generally carry 3 lights. If one goes down, I still two left. For most folks this would be overkill, but I work at night and actually rely on my lights constantly. True, my 3rd light is a little AAA keyring light, but it's got 3 levels, made out of stainless steel, and has taken every kind of beating I can throw at it without once having an issue.

By the way, I thoroughly enjoyed Etsu's "fix". That gave me a serious chuckle, especially in light of recent posts here. That's not to say I don't give any credence to the ideas of "burning-in" electronics or a "waiting/rest" period. Heck, why do you think the first thing a repair center does when you call them for help is to tell you to unplug whatever it is your trying to fix and wait a few minutes/hours before plugging it back in and trying it. 

But it is important to have a sense of humor about these things. Life is to short to take ourselves too seriously. 

In any case, I just wanted to add a bit of info. On Monday of last week, after reading several reports of the flickering issue and having not received my SC62d yet, I contacted ZL, explained about the flickering-on-low reports, and requested (if possible), in light of these reports, to please check my light for any flickering before shipping it out. 

The reply I got back the next day was that they were aware of the issue and were looking into it. 

As far as the flickering goes, it seems to me that if a light is advertised as having the ability to provide those extreme low levels of illumination, then it should be able to deliver that, and if it doesn't, then it's defective, however, I do understand that it can be difficult to achieve, and I imagine that the circuits required must be with-in very tight tolerances, so it's not totally surprising to me that this is an issue. We had the same issue when the NovaTac 120P was released. My light had that issue, and even though I had received a light with a PERFECT tint, I sent it back because I really do use those lower levels a lot. The one I got back worked exactly as it should (and still does), and while the tint wasn't as nice, that was an easy fix with a filter.

In any case, my ZL SC600 continues to work perfectly every night at work, and of course I have backups (NovaTac 120P and Fenix LD01), so I'll continue to be patient and hope that ZL is indeed looking into the flickering issue and will sooner or later ship out another batch of non-flickering SC62d lights. 

KITROBASKIN, thanks for your field report, it helps make the waiting easier .


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 11, 2014)

Derek Dean said:


> First, NO light is perfect. Not Surefire, HDS, Malkoff, Elzetta, or Zebralight. As we've stressed time and time again on this forum, the best way to assure yourself of having light when you need it is to carry at least two lights, with three being even better. Anybody who thinks their light can't fail is tempting fate, in my opinion.
> 
> It's why I have TWO backup drives for all my computer information. If my main drive goes down, I can immediately start using my backup drive and STILL have another backup drive to cover that one, just in case.
> 
> ...



Thanks DD.

The post by Etsu is very funny AND I am hoping people continue to McGuyver, take chances, or whatever in hopes of solving this issue. Being American, maybe it is hard for me to just let it rest! We try not to get mad, we just use a bigger hammer usually to our own disadvantage.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 11, 2014)

Thujone said:


> "Five business days" to the next batch arriving.



Thanks!

Hmmm. The question is 5 business days in China or TX, lol.


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## marinemaster (Mar 11, 2014)

I guess is hard to say where they will ship to Europe, USA, Asia......will have to wait and see.


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## marinemaster (Mar 12, 2014)

Just got the ordered shipped email notification.


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## Thujone (Mar 12, 2014)

I just my got shipping notice!


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 12, 2014)

Me too!!!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 12, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Me too!!!



This will be so interesting to hear reports from this second batch.

No one has commented on the accuracy of the state of charge indication. Is it working for you all?

Still no one has made comment regarding lux for this critter.

Any of you SC52 adherents know where we can get a nice clip to replace the stock unit?


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## Swede74 (Mar 12, 2014)

Thujone said:


> I just my got shipping notice!





PoliceScannerMan said:


> Me too!!!





marinemaster said:


> Just got the ordered shipped email notification.



Even though I haven't ordered one, I envy those of you who got your shipping notification. Don't know if it makes me crazy  or a bona fide flashaholic :candle:

This is my 300th post, by the way.


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## markr6 (Mar 12, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> No one has commented on the accuracy of the state of charge indication. Is it working for you all??



Nothing scientific on my first batch sample, but mine seems to be OK. In fact, I was worried since it always gave 4 blinks...but that's just becasue it's nice to have a light that doesn't burn thru a battery in about an hour on the highest mode! But today, it's finally down to 3 blinks since I used it quite a bit while working on installing my backup sump pump in the basement. And it's only a salvaged 2600mAh cell in mine.

Not that I dislike the 1020lm on my SC600w II, but if the high mode is there, I have a hard time resisting the urge to use it...hence a battery with much less charge.

3hrs and 9hrs on the two highest modes on the SC62d really keeps me in line


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 12, 2014)

markr6 said:


> Nothing scientific on my first batch sample, but mine seems to be OK. In fact, I was worried since it always gave 4 blinks...but that's just becasue it's nice to have a light that doesn't burn thru a battery in about an hour on the highest mode! But today, it's finally down to 3 blinks since I used it quite a bit while working on installing my backup sump pump in the basement. And it's only a salvaged 2600mAh cell in mine.
> 
> Not that I dislike the 1020lm on my SC600w II, but if the high mode is there, I have a hard time resisting the urge to use it...hence a battery with much less charge.
> 
> 3hrs and 9hrs on the two highest modes on the SC62d really keeps me in line



Excellent points, I too use the 1000L on the SC600 when 300L would work. Cant help it!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 12, 2014)

markr6 said:


> Nothing scientific on my first batch sample, but mine seems to be OK. In fact, I was worried since it always gave 4 blinks...but that's just becasue it's nice to have a light that doesn't burn thru a battery in about an hour on the highest mode! But today, it's finally down to 3 blinks since I used it quite a bit while working on installing my backup sump pump in the basement. And it's only a salvaged 2600mAh cell in mine.
> 
> Not that I dislike the 1020lm on my SC600w II, but if the high mode is there, I have a hard time resisting the urge to use it...hence a battery with much less charge.
> 
> 3hrs and 9hrs on the two highest modes on the SC62d really keeps me in line



Consider checking your battery voltage because my SC62 was flashing 3 times but my 2000mAh AW was at ~3.68

Let us know, please


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## Charles L. (Mar 12, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Excellent points, I too use the 1000L on the SC600 when 300L would work. Cant help it!



Hey, if you've got it, flaunt it  I find myself reaching for the cool white SC600 II L2 rather than the NW, simply because it exudes that much more pop from this little pocket rocket! Although I too am trying to rationalize an SC62d -- you guys have given me some good ideas.


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## LeukTech (Mar 12, 2014)

Got a shipping notification this morning.  

I ordered on the 27th of Jan, so I would think most, if not all, of the remaining orders have been shipped. 

All this flicker stuff has me a little bit worried, but I never actually use the lowest modes on any of my ZL's, heck even the highest low mode is seldom used by me. So if it only flickers in those super low modes then it won't bother me at all. Although my SC51c has some flickering issues that affects every mode, but I think that is actually due to a contact problem, as usually I get the flicker to stop by playing around the with tailcap.


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## Glock27 (Mar 12, 2014)

No flicker issues with mine. .01 Lm looks cool, but not very useful. .07 Lm tailstanding makes a good nite light.
G27


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 13, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Consider checking your battery voltage because my SC62 was flashing 3 times but my 2000mAh AW was at ~3.68
> 
> Let us know, please



Now I am wondering if I am getting three flashes with the lower voltage because it is a high drain battery (AW 2200mAh red)


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## markr6 (Mar 13, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Consider checking your battery voltage because my SC62 was flashing 3 times but my 2000mAh AW was at ~3.68
> 
> Let us know, please



Currently at 3.89v


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 13, 2014)

markr6 said:


> Currently at 3.89v



OK, Thanks, that's good to see. Yes the runtime on this unit is very nice. No worries about using on long walks. I have a tendency to use brighter settings than needed because of the delightful runtime.


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## jak (Mar 13, 2014)

Shipping notice yesterday, arrival today!

First impressions:

It was sticky.
It looks better in real life than photos.
Feels fantastic to hold
Spectacular beam (reminds me of some of the Sunwaymans)
Spectacularer tint

How it compares to my other Zebralights:

Superior (my opinion), cooler color than the Ws
Less floody, totally usable
Softer switch
Lightweight (without battery -as if that matters)
STELLER overall!

I can tell already this is going to be my go to light from now on, replacing my SC52w. The 320 lumens is nice, plenty bright, and comforting to know there's no step down. Not only that, but should last this bright for approximately 3 hours! Maybe I'm used to bad tints, but I freakin' love this "5000k." No regrets with this Zebralight specimen. 

No indication of any kind of flicker... except on strobe. HA!


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## RIX TUX (Mar 13, 2014)

jak said:


> Shipping notice yesterday, arrival today!
> 
> First impressions:
> 
> ...



nice mini review ...........
one question, the sc600 has a 356 lumen setting that runs for 3.9 hours (an hour longer), is that doing the same thing or better?
is the beam different ? better ? 
it is a little smaller but worth having a sc600 and a sc62


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## jak (Mar 14, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> nice mini review ...........
> one question, the sc600 has a 356 lumen setting that runs for 3.9 hours (an hour longer), is that doing the same thing or better?
> is the beam different ? better ?
> it is a little smaller but worth having a sc600 and a sc62



If runtime is your priority, it's hard to beat the SC600.

Yes, the beam is different, better is obviously subjective. (The beam pattern reminds me of the SC51.)

This new light is a little bit smaller, and that little bit goes a long way. The SC600 is a chunk, especially with that bulbous head. The SC62d is a viable candidate for EDC. To me, the SC600 isn't. 

If you utmost value tint and a size that's good for EDC, with a more than adequate runtime, the SC62d is the way to go. I will keep both my 62 and 600, only because I'm a moderate hoarder. If I had to choose only one for everyday use, 62 please. If I had to choose one for being stranded on a desert island, the 600.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 14, 2014)

It is Great to hear more feedback.

After removing the battery and letting it 'rest' for two days, only a few times actuating the switch, it is nice to report that the second lowest low is flicker free; at least it has been for 12 hours now. Since I am scrutinizing it, I did notice once a very mild fluctuation BUT, it would not have been noticeable under normal working conditions. I will continue to monitor and will check lowest low after a few days to see if it is consistently flicker free. Thanks to LEDBurn for the ray of hope he provided.

Without a battery, the sc62d is about half the weight of the sc600. 

Curiously, spending time with this pleasing tint makes me appreciate the XML2 T6 3C all the more. Received a Vinh dedomed PDT XML2 P60 dropin for the Oveready compact thrower on Wednesday. It is a fine complement to the SC62d for the forest/meadow terrain we have here. It is warmer in tint but fine for outside. The throw is very good and rounds out the SC62 as a team, for night time endeavors.

By the way: All this testing of flashlights and walking at night has now elevated me to the status of demigod in the eyes of our dog. He LOVES going out into the night so regularly.


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## markr6 (Mar 14, 2014)

jak said:


> Shipping notice yesterday, arrival today!
> 
> First impressions:
> 
> ...



Well said jak! I totally agree with this and your follow-up post.

My SC52w has been downgraded to nightstand duty, not seeing much use at all. In fact, now that I think of it I hardly use any Eneloops anymore! All 18650 at them moment, AA lights standing by.

I just noticed how the cooling fins on the SC62d are very round and smooth compared to the sharp square fins of the SC52w. No big deal either way for me, just an observation. I love everything about this light!


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## marinemaster (Mar 14, 2014)

No indication of any kind of flicker.... except on strobe. HA! that was funny


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 14, 2014)

Way to go USPS, I paid extra for priority mail, was expecting my SC62d today. My light is in Miami, I'm 400 miles north of there.


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## Joys_R_us (Mar 14, 2014)

Got my Sc600 today. No flicker, no issues with secondary level adjustments. Only the clicky is a bit strange; sometimes I start with low level if pressed for too long. When I try to start with low I may end up in mid level.

maybe I ' ll get used to it soon.


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## Slumber (Mar 14, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Way to go USPS, I paid extra for priority mail, was expecting my SC62d today. My light is in Miami, I'm 400 miles north of there.



Road trip!!


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## LeukTech (Mar 14, 2014)

@ PSM - Did you know that the speed of first class and priority are exactly the same? There is no difference between the two besides price and included features (like delivery confirmation and maybe one other thing like free insurance up to a certain amount). I got my light today and it was first class, they shipped on Wednesday and I live in Cali. The tracking said it was due on Saturday, but I had a really good feeling it would show up today, and it did!

---

As noted above, I got my light today. Initial impression is good, the thing is absolutely tiny, most people would probably think it took a AA its so small. It's amazing how tiny ZL can make an 18650 light! I think they broke records with the first SC600, and this light is even smaller!

I will have pictures and a more detail oriented sorta-review later, but I will talk briefly about the tint. First off, Derek, you are most definitely going to be filtering this light. While the green is not that bad (comparing to other green cree emitters), it is significantly worse when compared to a 219, especially in the lower modes. Also like cree emitters, there is a definite noticeable tint difference between the hotspot and spill. The inside hotspot is white with a touch of yellow, the immediate corona around the hostpsot is pretty much pure white, then the corona leading outwards is greenish-yellow, and the spill is purplish-blue. In use so far it is not that noticeable, but doing a white-wall light-saber reveals all (where you hold the light to the wall and shine it towards the roof). In use you can definitely see the purplish-blue in the spill, and it's a lot more drastic than I was expecting, though much less than an XM-L.

The good news about the tint is that so far it doesn't feel too cold like my previous XP-G2 3D bin from nailbender did. But now that I have trained my eyes to see the tint, the light has a noticeably yellow hotspot (not very intense, but kind of has the same yellow tint as.. umm, well. liquid that goes in the toilet). Most people would never see it, but now that I know it is there, I can see it plain as day no matter what I shine it on. The emitter is very likely a 3C bin due to the greens and yellows present. 

I will try to get some comparison pics later, but that is my preliminary on the tint.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 14, 2014)

I read Luxeon did not do bins. Are you sure you are looking at an SC62d? It sounds a lot like an XML2 warm you are describing.


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## LeukTech (Mar 14, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> I read Luxeon did not do bins. Are you sure you are looking at an SC62d? It sounds a lot like an XML2 warm you are describing.



Well it would be the same as 3C bin I would imagine.

And of course I am looking at the SC62d, lol, what kind of question is that? XML2 warm? I had my SC600w modified with a high CRI XML2 (something like 2900k) and the difference between the two is night and day, and even that is an understatement. I'll get pics up later.


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## Erik1213 (Mar 14, 2014)

Finally got mine! Love the color! Pure white. All of my modes work properly. The finish and button are much better than what my SC600w L2 came with. I'm pretty excited about it. The perfect size too. It's just really light, which I'm not used to.


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## Thujone (Mar 14, 2014)

Mine arrived in great working order today, very pleased!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 14, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> Well it would be the same as 3C bin I would imagine.
> 
> And of course I am looking at the SC62d, lol, what kind of question is that? XML2 warm? I had my SC600w modified with a high CRI XML2 (something like 2900k) and the difference between the two is night and day, and even that is an understatement. I'll get pics up later.



I apologize. For me, the Cree and ZL description of 'neutral' is very yellow to my eyes, so I call their 'neutral', warm. And I certainly don't want to get into a tiff about tints. I apologize. 

In your second paragraph you mentioned ZL breaking records with the first SC600 and Joys_R_us stated 2 posts previous to your post that he got his Sc600 today. I have had glitches with CPF software before and was wondering if maybe there was a mix up.

Great to hear reports from Erik1213 and Thujone!


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## Derek Dean (Mar 14, 2014)

Got my SC62d today. I'll admit, even though I knew what to expect, I was completely surprised at how small it is, to the point that initially I didn't think an 18650 cell was going to fit, but of course it did . Fit and finish, as usual, are top notch, with superbly rounded cooling fins, giving a nice feel in the hand. As far as the button goes, it's certainly different from the one on my SC600, and while I think I like the SC600's button a bit better, I'm not having any difficulty changing levels or doing the programing, etc, so for me, it's not a problem. 

Unfortunately, I've got the flicker issue on the lowest two levels, with the lowest level not even lighting up at first, and now with only an occasional flicker of life, and yes, I've charged my batteries, tried 4 different 18650s, and cleaned all the contact points numerous times. I've already submitted a request for an RMA. 

No matter how nice it is, I want it to work correctly, especially since I find myself using the lower levels frequently. Oh well, as far as I'm concerned, this is just part of the game. 

As far as the tint goes, well, color is a funny thing. It seemed greenish yellow to me at first (not bad, just noticeable), especially compared to my other lights, but upon checking it with my camera, with the WB set to daylight, I find that the color is pretty much dead on. However, for my tastes, I found a 1/4 minus green filter really makes it POP (yes, LeukTech, you called that one right ). 

I really like this light. The levels seem well spaced, it fits my hand beautifully, it's super small, and the beam seems eminently useful. I hope ZL will get me a new one quickly.


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## LeukTech (Mar 15, 2014)

Was planning on taking a few pics tonight, but alas when I turned my camera on the orange low battery light was flashing. So I just grabbed a few shots of the SC62d in comparison to my other ZL's, for size and to show the difference in anodization color (Sc62d is quite a bit darker than my other ZL's, it's pretty neat!). 

Left to right: SC51c - SC62d - SC600w













EDIT: With the little juice left in my camera I decided to take a shot that puts some perspective on how small this light is. The battery is a AA size Ni-Mh. This is one compact 18650 light!







Solarforce P1d (p60 host, uses 18650 battery) next to the SC62d. The SF is a monster, also weighs nearly half a pound with my triple EDC+ Nichia 219 in there, vs the 3oz of the sc62d (both loaded with AW 3400mAh batteries).






I am really liking this new anodization. I do like the olive green anodization on the older models, but the darker version just looks great! 

Also figure I would comment on whether or not my light has flickering on certain low modes... it does. The lowest low mode doesn't even work most of the time, and the second to lowest mode works, but flickers in brightness. Personally this doesn't bother me at all, both of those modes are far too low for anything I would ever use, and the other two low modes work like a charm. I suppose I could return this, but I doubt a new one would be any different as so many people are reporting this issue which seems to be a near-universal problem. As long as all the remaining modes work without flickering, I don't mind this problem. 

As for the new button feel, I am on the fence. I like the tactile feedback of the SC600, and even the SC51 has a nice solid feel to it, but the sc62d is a bit mushy for my liking. I've already misfired many different modes due to it's deceptive feel when depressing it. But in the end, it's not too bad, I've felt much worse. 

Now I have been using this light more since my initial impressions, and am warming up to the tint. Outside it is beautiful when shining on foliage and random outdoor stuff, I don't even notice the slight yellow to the hotspot or the slight greenish on the corona, or the slightly purplish-blue on the spill... it just looks white and neutral (on the higher modes). Inside however is a different story, as that is when the tint characteristics are made much more obvious to me. It's nothing extreme by any means and most people would characterize it as 'white'. But when I shine it on a object that is a solid color, the tint variations are noticeable to me. However in busy environments, like outdoors amongst trees, grass, and other things with varying colors, it isn't noticeable at all. 


Other than some minor issues, I am really starting to like this light. I didn't think I would like the look of it based on the pictures, but I gotta say I really dig the styling of this light! And the highest mode is plenty bright and has a nice balance between throw and flood. For it's size and useful runtimes, I can deal with the tint not being perfect.


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## Erik1213 (Mar 15, 2014)

Maybe I'm just being paranoid. Maybe. I washed my light because there was some kind of sticky coating on the outside. I assume it was to keep the anodization looking nice. Didn't think anything of it, it's waterproof, right? Maybe not.

I had the light tailstanding on my desk next to me making sure the battery protection functions worked correctly (step down, low voltage protection, etc) and I noticed a weird haze on the reflector. It has a wild rainbow effect but is mostly blue. I am starting to wonder if water go into my light when I washed it or if it is some of that weird oil that was on the outside of the light. 

I did let the light get REALLY hot, then I removed the battery and filled the battery compartment with rice in an attempt to remove whatever this is inside of my light. It didn't affect it at all after about an hour, so I'm not sure it's water. 

Here is a picture of what I am seeing:


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## RIX TUX (Mar 15, 2014)

Erik1213 said:


> Maybe I'm just being paranoid. Maybe. I washed my light because there was some kind of sticky coating on the outside. I assume it was to keep the anodization looking nice. Didn't think anything of it, it's waterproof, right? Maybe not.
> 
> I had the light tailstanding on my desk next to me making sure the battery protection functions worked correctly (step down, low voltage protection, etc) and I noticed a weird haze on the reflector. It has a wild rainbow effect but is mostly blue. I am starting to wonder if water go into my light when I washed it or if it is some of that weird oil that was on the outside of the light.
> 
> ...



it might be the type of glass ?


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## Erik1213 (Mar 15, 2014)

This is definitely on the top edge of the reflector. If you look just to the right of the hotspot in my picture, you can see a small smudge in the offending haze.


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## marinemaster (Mar 16, 2014)

That picture is really cool looking !!!
Mine does the same. Is the glass used. The glass on mine is so clear cannot tell is there.


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## Etsu (Mar 16, 2014)

Both Zebralight lights I've owned have an issue with a slight haze on the (inside) of the lens. It doesn't affect the beam, but it shows that ZL doesn't pay attention to little issues during manufacturing. Probably a result of someone handling the lens with fingers or dirty equipment. It's especially annoying with ZL since you can't take apart the head to clean the lens.

In contrast, all my 4sevens lights have completely clear lenses with no sign of haze or smudges. So they obviously use a different manufacturer.


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## LEDburn (Mar 16, 2014)

Etsu said:


> Both Zebralight lights I've owned have an issue with a slight haze on the (inside) of the lens. It doesn't affect the beam, but it shows that ZL doesn't pay attention to little issues during manufacturing. Probably a result of someone handling the lens with fingers or dirty equipment. It's especially annoying with ZL since you can't take apart the head to clean the lens.
> 
> In contrast, all my 4sevens lights have completely clear lenses with no sign of haze or smudges. So they obviously use a different manufacturer.



Or you just don't know what an AR coating looks like?

If it is not easily seen when looking straight at the emitter, it's the AR coating. If you can see it only when looking through the glass at an angle like the above picture, it's the AR coating.

Of all the lights I own, 4sevens amd Armytek are the only ones I would consider to have a 'hazy' or foggy lens. 
My Armytek has a green haze which I am 99% sure is some form of coating. 
My 4sevens (1 of about 8) has fogging/haze issues more related to moisture than any coating I have previously seen.


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## 18650 (Mar 16, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Or you just don't know what an AR coating looks like? If it is not easily seen when looking straight at the emitter, it's the AR coating. If you can see it only when looking through the glass at an angle like the above picture, it's the AR coating. Of all the lights I own, 4sevens amd Armytek are the only ones I would consider to have a 'hazy' or foggy lens. My Armytek has a green haze which I am 99% sure is some form of coating. My 4sevens (1 of about 8) has fogging/haze issues more related to moisture than any coating I have previously seen.


 My only Zebralight had something on the glass lens out of the box. It looked like something was on the glass and evaporated/dried leaving a visible residue.


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## marinemaster (Mar 16, 2014)

Been using the SC62d today. The switch feels a bit too soft to me. The SC52 feels different of course, harder. To me the SC62d switch is just softer. Then again maybe I need to get used to it.
No flickering that I noticed. No green tint at all. I am using some older 18650 AW 2200 mah protected button top. They fit. I also tried 17670 they also fit but I will be using the 18650. I measures the AW 18650 is about 67.5mm
The tint on SC62d is warmer compared to SC52. 

PSM did you get your yet ?


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 17, 2014)

Showed up at PO yesterday. Hopefully it'll show today. Thanks for thinking of me.


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## markr6 (Mar 17, 2014)

I'm surprised to hear of some tint variations...absolutely no green or yellow in mine (crisp white from center to spill). I can almost trick myself into thinking it's one of my Nichia 219 lights! When side by side, the Nichia is a bit warmer but I wouldn't say "better".


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## Etsu (Mar 17, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Or you just don't know what an AR coating looks like?



I am well aware of what anti-reflective coatings look like on lenses. The haze/smudge on my Zebralights do not look anything like an anti-reflective coating (nor do they look like the above picture). They look like poor handling at the manufacturer.


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## Thujone (Mar 17, 2014)

As far as tint goes I consider this torch as having an absence of tint. Simply pure white light. Compared with daylight streaming in my window yesterday there was no discernible difference. Now if only it put out 1200lm and had the option to have beaconing modes while 'off' (locator mode) this would be my grail light. Edit: Also need a deep carry clip.


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## tonkem (Mar 17, 2014)

SC62D is back in stock at Zebralight website, in case anyone is wanting to pick one up.


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## jades_lucky (Mar 17, 2014)

That is weird, they are in stock now but mine still has not shipped and I ordered it last month. Anybody else with this issue?


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## Glock27 (Mar 17, 2014)

jades_lucky said:


> That is weird, they are in stock now but mine still has not shipped and I ordered it last month. Anybody else with this issue?



Did you check your ZebraLight account? Track your recent orders. 

G27


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## RIX TUX (Mar 17, 2014)

Thujone said:


> As far as tint goes I consider this torch as having an absence of tint. Simply pure white light. Compared with daylight streaming in my window yesterday there was no discernible difference. Now if only it put out 1200lm and had the option to have beaconing modes while 'off' (locator mode) this would be my grail light. Edit: Also need a deep carry clip.


+1 on more lumens.
ZL is going backwards on this one


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## markr6 (Mar 17, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> +1 on more lumens.
> ZL is going backwards on this one



I guess it depends on what you use it for. I simply can't EDC my SC600w II. Maxed out with the SC62d and you get an awesome tint with it, so I've been using it a lot.

I usually keep my SC600w II, SC62d and an L10 Nichia 219 on my kitchen counter. I haven't touched the SC600w II since I got the SC62d. Of course, if I want to see beyond my back yard I'll grab the SC600, but haven't had a need yet.

The SC600w II is much more versatile, but the SC62d size is very attractive to me (even more than the tint). Can't believe they're not putting an XM-L2 in the SC62!! I think it would sell like crazy.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 17, 2014)

markr6 said:


> I guess it depends on what you use it for. I simply can't EDC my SC600w II. Maxed out with the SC62d and you get an awesome tint with it, so I've been using it a lot.
> 
> I usually keep my SC600w II, SC62d and an L10 Nichia 219 on my kitchen counter. I haven't touched the SC600w II since I got the SC62d. Of course, if I want to see beyond my back yard I'll grab the SC600, but haven't had a need yet.
> 
> The SC600w II is much more versatile, but the SC62d size is very attractive to me (even more than the tint). Can't believe they're not putting an XM-L2 in the SC62!! I think it would sell like crazy.


But a sc52 is smaller and brighter than the sc62, so wouldn't it be better for your pocket than the sc62?


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## bltkmt (Mar 17, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> But a sc52 is smaller *and brighter* than the sc62



I don't think that is true, at least in my experience.


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## Derek Dean (Mar 17, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> But a sc52 is smaller and brighter than the sc62, so wouldn't it be better for your pocket than the sc62?


It all depends on what you're looking for in a light. The SC62d is all about the best combination of small size, long run time, and quality of light. For me, they got it right with the SC62d. Now if they'll just send me a replacement that doesn't flicker .


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## RIX TUX (Mar 17, 2014)

bltkmt said:


> I don't think that is true, at least in my experience.


isn't 500 lumens _*more *_than 320 lumens


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## Etsu (Mar 17, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> +1 on more lumens.
> ZL is going backwards on this one



-1 on more lumens. You can use a cool white Cree XML if you want lumens, and ZL has plenty of offerings with that. What ZL needs is better tint offerings, such as one with a Nichia 219A or 219B.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 17, 2014)

Etsu said:


> -1 on more lumens. You can use a cool white Cree XML if you want lumens, and ZL has plenty of offerings with that. What ZL needs is better tint offerings, such as one with a Nichia 219A or 219B.


the tint in the sc62 sounds like most buyers are happy with it and I am all for it, but every zl has a setting for about 300 lumens, I'm hoping for a tighter beam and tint color like the sc62 but with a higher output setting of 700-1000 lumens and that 300 lumen setting too.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 17, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> isn't 500 lumens _*more *_than 320 lumens



It is not more when you factor in runtime, but, to each his or her own.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 17, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> It is not more when you factor in runtime, but, to each his or her own.



An SC600 L2 can runs at higher lumens for a longer runtime than the SC62 (SC600 L2 can do 670 lumens for 2.5 hours or 356 lumens for 3.9 hours). The SC62's emitter just isn't as efficient as XM-L2.

Personally, I'm also in the camp of needing more lumens. I'm too spoiled by 900+ lumen lights. 320 lumens isn't appealing. Here's hoping Zebralight comes out with an SC62w with a neutral tint XM-L2 emitter in it.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 17, 2014)

RIX TUX was talking about an SC52 being brighter than an SC62.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 17, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> It is not more when you factor in runtime, but, to each his or her own.


Of course runtime is important and I don't run a light on turbo all the time but I would like a light to have a high output when I might want to use it. I like the sc62 because of the tighter beam and supposedly pure white tint but a more versatile light with a 700+ lumen high mode would be better.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 17, 2014)

Got mine. Flickers on lowest low. 5 pin pricks of anodize missing around the button where the edge is. Anodize is kinda splotchy on tailcap. Button is a tad soft to my liking. 

With all that said I really like this light. I can't really comment on the beam yet.


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## marinemaster (Mar 17, 2014)

Mine has a small anno missing but i don't care. The cap anno is a bit of different color but i don't care. Is a great light. 
I got new lights in the past from Surefire with same issues but i did not care. 
Zero impact on functionality.

I tried all the beacon and strobe modes on mine, really cool. Maybe lowest low is part of the strobe modes  just kidding


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 17, 2014)

MM, it doesn't bother me either, but some folks it bothers them greatly, which is fine too. I understand, if you're dropping coin on a light, the coating in theory should be flawless.


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## marinemaster (Mar 17, 2014)

What 18650 you using ?

Wonder if anyone has done a run test with 3200 mah batt. I only have 2200 mah so my test would be shorter.

Been using the SC32 and it seems so small now.
The tail cap of the SC62d seems big.

Comfortable as EDC but this is as big I want to carry/EDC.

SC600 would probably be out of question for pocket EDC, just guessing.


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## LeukTech (Mar 18, 2014)

Was going through some of my other lights and came across an interesting comparison for size. 


SC62d - XENO E03








The SC62d is actually just a tad bit shorter in length compared to the E03! And the diameter is practically identical. 

Simply amazing when considering the E03 takes a AA battery and the sc62d takes a whopping 18650 size battery! Beams appear to be nearly identical as well in terms of hotspot diameter.

As for those saying they cannot do without 1000+ lumens, I'll say this much; with my SC600w that has a XM-L2 running in turbo, the SC62d hotspot is just as bright in a given area due to it having a tighter beam. Overall the brightness is less, but the hotspot intensity is just about the same due to a more concentrated beam. 

Don't discount 320 lumens purely on a number by number basis, there is a lot of other things to consider. The sc62d is plenty bright on it's max mode, more than most people would ever need. The sc600 is a floody beast, but the sc62d has a more focused beam which means it will appear as bright as a more floody light that is significantly brighter. 

If I compare my sc62d on max to my triple nichia 219 on max (~500 lumens) on a wall 7 feet away, the sc62d beats it hands down by a HUGE degree in terms of hotspot intensity, even though the triple 219 is brighter in terms of lumen output. 

People need to stop falling for the "MAX LUMENS!" advertising and realize that lumen output isn't everything when it comes to perceived brightness. A 100 lumen light that has insane throw will actually have a brighter hotspot than a 1000+ lumen light that is floody.


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## Etsu (Mar 18, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> the tint in the sc62 sounds like most buyers are happy with it and I am all for it, but every zl has a setting for about 300 lumens, I'm hoping for a tighter beam and tint color like the sc62 but with a higher output setting of 700-1000 lumens and that 300 lumen setting too.



Yes, the Luxeon "d" version sounds like a good compromise between the usual (bad) Cree tints and the great Nichia tint. I'm hoping they come out with a SC52d, for AA cell fans like myself. A SC52n would be best, but I know ZL would never do it.


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## markr6 (Mar 18, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> Was going through some of my other lights and came across an interesting comparison for size.
> 
> 
> SC62d - XENO E03
> ...



+1! NAILED. IT.

RIX TUX is right about the SC52 being brighter with 500lm, but I never use that mode. It kills the battery so fast, I'm almost ready to quit using 14500 and go back to Eneloops (can't contol myself...if the 500lm is there, I use it!) I also like the longer length on the SC62d. So, runtime, beam, tint and physical size make it a winner.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 18, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> Was going through some of my other lights and came across an interesting comparison for size.
> 
> 
> SC62d - XENO E03
> ...



For me a more focused beam is not always better. If I'm indoors looking for something I want a wide floody beam. Having a narrow hotspot isn't as good because it limits my field of view. A wide hotspot would be better even if the throw is less.

If everyone just wanted throw, nobody would buy XM-Ls. Instead we'd all have XP-G and XP-E lights. But frankly, lumens and flood are nice. I use my light to look at stuff close up much more often then I use it to look at stuff in the distance. The SC62d's narrow hotspot and low lumens simply aren't appealing. I already have lights with that kind of output and they are a lot smaller and lighter than an SC62 as they run on smaller cells. Sure the runtime is a lot shorter, but I don't really need a runtime king. If I need runtime I'll use an 18650 light on a medium mode.

What IS appealing is the SC62's small size for an 18650 light. All they need to do is bump up the emitter to a neutral XMk-L2 and I'm in.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 18, 2014)

Has anyone seen a review or the manufacturers rating on the beam distance of the Sc62?


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## Ryp (Mar 18, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> Been using the SC32 and it seems so small now.



Sorry if I missed anything, but the SC32 was released?


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## derfyled (Mar 18, 2014)

Ryp said:


> Sorry if I missed anything, but the SC32 was released?


No, not yet. Considering the legendary speed of ZL, I'm expecting it somewhere in the next 4 years...


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## Charles L. (Mar 18, 2014)

Looking forward to receiving my SC62d. 1x18650 is definitely the "sweet spot" for me, and pocketable 18650's are hard to find. Currently have an Olight S-20 L2 as well as the SC600 II L2 -- the latter is used far more often than the Olight, due as much to its moonlight modes as to its higher output. The Olight is lighter and much thinner, especially in the head, but I don't notice much difference in the ability to EDC either of these lights.

In fact, I don't really find the SC600 difficult to EDC at all. It hangs nicely on its clip in the back corner of my pocket. I have some smaller CR-123 and AA lights (Quark, Nitecore Extreme and SRT3, Peak El Capitan among others) and still find the versatility and runtime of the SC600 far outweigh its greater bulk compared to these lights. I don't find it much more obtrusive than, say, my L3 Illumination L10 sitting in the bottom of my pocket. I bought the L3 for its Nichia 219 emitter, and it turns out I'm not much of a tint snob. Despite its larger size, the SC600 has essentially turned all of those smaller lights into shelf queens. I'll be interested to see whether the smaller size of the SC62 outweighs its tighter beam (my EDC use is either indoors or in the woods, so throw is not very useful) and lower output. An abundance of choices


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## marinemaster (Mar 18, 2014)

Meant to say SC52


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## LeukTech (Mar 19, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> For me a more focused beam is not always better. If I'm indoors looking for something I want a wide floody beam. Having a narrow hotspot isn't as good because it limits my field of view. A wide hotspot would be better even if the throw is less.
> 
> If everyone just wanted throw, nobody would buy XM-Ls. Instead we'd all have XP-G and XP-E lights. But frankly, lumens and flood are nice. I use my light to look at stuff close up much more often then I use it to look at stuff in the distance. The SC62d's narrow hotspot and low lumens simply aren't appealing. I already have lights with that kind of output and they are a lot smaller and lighter than an SC62 as they run on smaller cells. Sure the runtime is a lot shorter, but I don't really need a runtime king. If I need runtime I'll use an 18650 light on a medium mode.
> 
> What IS appealing is the SC62's small size for an 18650 light. All they need to do is bump up the emitter to a neutral XMk-L2 and I'm in.



Don't misunderstand me, while the sc62d has a tighter beam than the sc600, it is FAR from being a super-tight tunnel vision beam. The beam on the sc62d is the perfect blend between throw and flood in a homestead environment. 

Also I doubt this size host could handle an XM-L2. It already gets pretty hot on max quickly with just 1.1-1.5A, I couldn't even imagine how fast it would heat up with 3A and an XM-L emitter. Probably would be like the sc52, you get a minuet of ~500lm, then it drops down to less lumens than the sc62d currently has in max (which it holds constantly). Except since it uses an XM-L it would be more floody which would be significantly less bright in the hotspot.

Also you contradict yourself, if you don't care about runtime but want a bright floody light, then get the SC52. The* entire* point of a 18650 light is the extended runtime bonus. The SC52 is not only smaller than the SC62d, but it also has a floody turbo mode that does 500-535 lumens (depending on if you go with neutral or cool white). Although once that minuet of turbo is up, it drops down to 280-300 lumens, which is less lumens than the sc62d has in max, and the sc52 is floody, which means the hotspot will appear much less bright.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 19, 2014)

LeukTech said:


> Don't misunderstand me, while the sc62d has a tighter beam than the sc600, it is FAR from being a super-tight tunnel vision beam. The beam on the sc62d is the perfect blend between throw and flood in a homestead environment.
> ...
> 
> Also you contradict yourself, if you don't care about runtime but want a bright floody light, then get the SC52. The* entire* point of a 18650 light is the extended runtime bonus. The SC52 is not only smaller than the SC62d, but it also has a floody turbo mode that does 500-535 lumens (depending on if you go with neutral or cool white). Although once that minuet of turbo is up, it drops down to 280-300 lumens, which is less lumens than the sc62d has in max, and the sc52 is floody, which means the hotspot will appear much less bright.



I'm not contradicting myself. I like pocket rockets! An 18650 appeals to me not so much for the runtime, but because it allows for a brighter light than with a smaller cell.... AND has the flexibility to provide long run times when run on medium modes.

For example, I recently modded a couple Sunwayman C20Cs. The C20C is a single 18650 side-switch light that's smaller than an SC600, but larger than an SC62. I modded one of them with an MT-G2 at 3 amps and the other with a triple XPG2 at over 7 amps. They draw anywhere from 24-30 watts of power each and produce over 2000 lumens at the emitter at turn-on with fresh batteries, and probably around 1500-1700 lumens out the front.

Can I run these lights at max power for a long time? Nope. Not much thermal mass there. The heads of both lights get too hot to touch within a few minutes at max power. (The triple XPG2 gets too hot to touch within 30 seconds on a Panasonic 20r cell so I run it on a Zebralight 3100 mAh protected cell, which stays cool longer).

I have an SC52 and an SC52w. But I find I don't carry them because my modded lights are much MUCH brighter. If I feel in the mood for something small, instead of grabbing the Zebralight I tend to grab my modded XTAR wk42. It's smaller and lighter than an SC52, but with a 3.04 amp driver and XM-L2 on direct copper star, is as bright as an SC600 L2. Or if I want throw I'll grab my tiny XPG2 3 amp zoomie.

I'm half tempted to buy an SC62 for use as a mod host. It might be fun to pull out all the guts and replace with a triple XPG2 and 105c with FET. And with its superior heatsinking might run even longer on high than my C20Cs. The downside.... Zebralight tends to solder their drivers on and due to the massive heatsinking it can be difficult to desolder. Because the head isn't removable it can be difficult to work in there. An additional problem might be lack of room in the head due to Zebralight using an integrated driver with the LED on the board and no star. However, this might be fixable by using a triple XPG2, because the Carclo optic is much shallower than the original reflector. As long as the head is wide enough. The SC62d is also a bit pricey... $85 for a mod host that might or might not result in a working light and might destroy the original light if the mod doesn't work.... sounds like a pricey gamble.

Regarding tint: My Zebralights all tend to have ugly tints, so I can appreciate how the tint on the SC62d might be much nicer. I hate looking at ugly tints. With my modded lights I was able to pick and choose the emitter and optics. Cree emitters also tend to produce prettier tints when driven more heavily. All my modded lights have nice tints.



LeukTech said:


> ...
> 
> Also I doubt this size host could handle an XM-L2. It already gets pretty hot on max quickly with just 1.1-1.5A, I couldn't even imagine how fast it would heat up with 3A and an XM-L emitter. Probably would be like the sc52, you get a minuet of ~500lm, then it drops down to less lumens than the sc62d currently has in max (which it holds constantly). Except since it uses an XM-L it would be more floody which would be significantly less bright in the hotspot....



I expect that if Zebralight ever puts out an XM-L2 SC62 then yes... they probably would use the same brightness settings as in the SC52. I'd much rather have Sc600 levels, but heat is an issue. And unlike my modded hobbyist lights, Zebralight would need to pick conservative levels that wouldn't overheat.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 19, 2014)

If you decide to mod an SC62d, please let us know on this thread. There are many here who would like to see what happens. Given that, many of us are OK with the output of the stock light. I carry a compact thrower for reaching out, but the beam spread on the SC62 is very nice for general use.


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## Swede74 (Mar 19, 2014)

I finally found the SC62d in a European online store. It will be my first high CRI light, so I suspect I'm now living my last few days as a non-tint snob.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 19, 2014)

What is the beam distance of this light? where can it be bought? any discount codes?


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## marinemaster (Mar 19, 2014)

I have been testing the batt on my SC62 with a voltmeter. No drop in battery voltage after about 2 days, so no parasitic drain. That is excellent. Well done ZL.


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## Derek Dean (Mar 20, 2014)

That's great to hear, marinemaster. Thanks for the test results.


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## mekquake (Mar 20, 2014)

Where did you find it Swede74 ?


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## Swede74 (Mar 20, 2014)

mekquake said:


> Where did you find it Swede74 ?



Mequake, I have sent you a PM.


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## Lithium466 (Mar 20, 2014)

I'd like to know if possible too


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## Swede74 (Mar 20, 2014)

Lithium466 said:


> I'd like to know if possible too



PM sent to you too :wave:


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 20, 2014)

I don't think anybody is going to give you a spanking if you just say it in the thread. You may have your own reasons for not posting it, however.


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## cliwilnew (Mar 20, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> I don't think anybody is going to give you a spanking if you just say it in the thread. You may have your own reasons for not posting it, however.



ZL's site had them yesterday, but no more. I sent an email to e2fieldgear and they were supposed to have them 1 week ago but still waiting on arrival from ZL. Also sent email to IlluminationSupply and haven't heard back from them yet. This is a somewhat difficult light to get for the moment.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 20, 2014)

I am really liking this light. I tried to "run" the flicker out of the low level. Mine flickers on L1 and L2 (dimmest and 2nd dimmest) so I let it run all night last night on L2. Woke up this AM, and it was still flickering. Its not too bad, but noticeable. I think I will use this light and once they have everything sorted out I will use my warranty and swap for a new one. I tend to use these moon modes on trips and use the light as a night light for my kids when in a hotel or condo. I can tolerate the flicker, I use it only first thing in the morning to not disturb the sleeping wife. 

I find the beam a nice mix of flood and throw, not a thrower like others have called it. However the beam does reach, but I wouldn't call it a thrower. After a few days of using this light solely I find it has "warmed" up and doesn't seem as cool as it did when I compared it against other CRI lights. It really is like "high noon" daylight, nice!!! 

The size is perfect, cant believe this light holds a 18650. I did have to remove my clip and bend it a little to tighten it up. I like my clips snug.

Overall I am quite happy with this light, even happier if they would have sent me one that didn't flicker on the lowest two modes.


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## Swede74 (Mar 20, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> I don't think anybody is going to give you a spanking if you just say it in the thread. You may have your own reasons for not posting it, however.



I hope not, and since there seems to be a general interest and I don't want to flood the thread with PM heads-ups, here it is:

http://www.adventurestars.co.uk/Shop/Torches/Zebralight/12466-Zebralight-SC62D-High-CRI-Daylight-Tint.html


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 20, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> I am really liking this light. I tried to "run" the flicker out of the low level. Mine flickers on L1 and L2 (dimmest and 2nd dimmest) so I let it run all night last night on L2. Woke up this AM, and it was still flickering. Its not too bad, but noticeable. I think I will use this light and once they have everything sorted out I will use my warranty and swap for a new one. I tend to use these moon modes on trips and use the light as a night light for my kids when in a hotel or condo. I can tolerate the flicker, I use it only first thing in the morning to not disturb the sleeping wife.
> 
> I find the beam a nice mix of flood and throw, not a thrower like others have called it. However the beam does reach, but I wouldn't call it a thrower. After a few days of using this light solely I find it has "warmed" up and doesn't seem as cool as it did when I compared it against other CRI lights. It really is like "high noon" daylight, nice!!!
> 
> ...



This largely coincides with my experience.

Sent Derek Dean a PM about this matter. He is so polite and am sorry for his disappointment. Figured I would check the lowest low on my SC62, hoping to report resolution, but continued flickering. Then went back to second lowest low and it started fluctuating again! Drats! So, removed battery and let sit for ~3.5 days. The fluctuation on second lowest low seems to be gone, I think! Sorry for the lumen-voodoo talk. I've been more of the mind that Etsu has described about current not having a good path because of a manufacturing shortcoming, as opposed to micro capacitor mess up during fabrication. All I know is that I am staying away from the lowest low! I don't need it!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 22, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> I expect that if Zebralight ever puts out an XM-L2 SC62 then yes... they probably would use the same brightness settings as in the SC52. I'd much rather have Sc600 levels, but heat is an issue. And unlike my modded hobbyist lights, Zebralight would need to pick conservative levels that wouldn't overheat.



The ZebraLight H600w L2 weighs the same as an SC52 empty, has PID, with a warm XML2 that puts out. A right angle flashlight has advantages as well. The switch is easily accessed on the end of the torch. I did not like the yellow corona but others like the incandescent feel.


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## marinemaster (Mar 22, 2014)

I really dig the tint in the SC62d.
Good choice on ZL side.
Cree may be more efficient but to me Lumileds and Nichia definitely have better tint. 
The L3 L10 219b I have is so calming 

I am using to turn on 66 lumens on High. What levels you guys using on High ?


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## Brasso (Mar 22, 2014)

Im using the low level high as my starting point also. I guess I just don't understand why people want a 1000 lumen light in their pocket. If the SC62 came in an xml I wouldn't buy it. I don't like xml's. I'll take an xpg over an xml every time, or in this case a lumileds. I'm absolutely, perfectly happy with the output. I wouldn't want a higher output.


And mine doesn't flicker.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 22, 2014)

anybody have a beamshot comparison of the sc600 and the sc62? 
or an opinion of the two if you own both?


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## siginu (Mar 23, 2014)

I'm surprised I have not seen a review of this light in the review section, anyone know if there is one underway?


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 23, 2014)

This is my favorite ZL ever. The flickering on lowest two lows is the only drawback. Love the beam love the size love the clip. My poor SC600w MKII has sat neglected since it's arrival.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 23, 2014)

Just pulled the trigger............now a 2-3 day wait.


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## markr6 (Mar 24, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> anybody have a beamshot comparison of the sc600 and the sc62?
> or an opinion of the two if you own both?



I like the SC62d tint so much, but even when comparing with the SC600w II, I would say I like both of them equally. Since I don't have any green in the 600, it's basically just a little warmer. I can tell a slight difference regarding CRI just because the SC62d is whiter. But they're both pretty good in that sense too.

I usually leave both my SC600w II and SC62d on my kitchen counter and choose which one I need for whatever job. I pick up the SC62d 90% of the time becuase it's lighter and much easier to pocket carry. So if I'm leaving the house it's always the SC62d.

Glad you pulled the trigger! I think you'll like it.


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## Charles L. (Mar 24, 2014)

Supposed to get mine today! Eager to compare it to my SC600II L2's.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 24, 2014)

Totally agree with you markr6. Size and clip are huge advantages of the 62 over the 600.


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## Swede74 (Mar 24, 2014)

I received my Zebralight SC62d today  I will update this post with some initial impressions when I have finished my lunch. The one showing its true colours in the last photo below. 

Initial impressions: 

- It was lighter than I had expected. 
- Somewhat greasy/oily out of the box. 
- It appeared as though the threads had not been properly cleaned before lubrication. I had to remove a 1 cm shaving (not sure if that's what it's called - turning? chip?) and there was a gritty sound when I tightened the tailcap with a battery installed. Hopefully a thorough cleaning and re-lubrication will solve the problem. 
- A faint, barely noticeable discoloration in the anodization in an area about the size of a match head. 
- Switch is softer than on my SC600 / SC52, but not quite as soft as on the SC51, and due to its being recessed, I don't think I will be experiencing any accidental activations. Time will tell. 
- No flickering on any level. 
- This is my first high CRI light so I only have cool white LEDs to compare with, but so far I am very happy with the tint. It really does render colours better than for instance a 65 CRI XML. 
- It gets hot after a few minutes on high, but not alarmingly so. 
- No signs of water ingress after 10 minutes in a bowl of water 

- Come on sun, set already!


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 24, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> Just pulled the trigger............now a 2-3 day wait.



I also pulled the trigger, though I probably won't get mine till next week. Zebralight.com was out of stock, but Amazon still had a few.

Will be interesting to see how the high CRI compares to some of my other lights. My other lights with good color rendition:

(1) Sipik 58 modded with triple Nichia 219 4500k 92 CRI. Running on 1x IMR 14500 at 3 amps. Great color rendition but short battery life. No throw. Maybe 500 lumens output.
(2) Sunwayman C20C modded with triple XPG2. Each emitter of a different tint (1 cool white, 1 warm white, 1 neutral white). Running at 6-7.4 amps. Maybe 1500 lumens output. Surprisingly good color rendition.... much better than I get when using XPG2s all of the same tint. My current go-to light when I want something for close range use.


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## Etsu (Mar 24, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> (2) Sunwayman C20C modded with triple XPG2. Each emitter of a different tint (1 cool white, 1 warm white, 1 neutral white). Running at 6-7.4 amps. Maybe 1500 lumens output. Surprisingly good color rendition.... much better than I get when using XPG2s all of the same tint. My current go-to light when I want something for close range use.



That's an interesting design. Does it give a natural-looking light? Or are there weird edges to shadows as each of the different colors cast at a slightly different angle over the object?


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 24, 2014)

Swede74:
You seem like an amiable chap. Would you be so kind as to confirm that when you program the low mode, you are seeing three options and that one of them is virtually only visible by looking directly into the emitter? And that you see no variation in intensity on that lowest setting? Thank You for your tolerance. I have been thinking some members here say they have no flickering when maybe they have not found that lowest low mode. Since you have multiple ZL's, you would know how to find the different light levels to program. 

The pictures are great! The meat item looks more palatable under the light of the SC62d

I had a speck of missing anodization on my SC62 but do not notice it under normal use.

Fireclaw18's combining of different tints on his XPG2 triple is a great idea! Perhaps he could send comparison pictures of his different beams. I have noticed when comparing different lights in the field that one torch that is a little cool and one that is a little warm, when shined on the same spot at the same intensity, looks good.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 24, 2014)

Etsu said:


> That's an interesting design. Does it give a natural-looking light? Or are there weird edges to shadows as each of the different colors cast at a slightly different angle over the object?



You can really only see the different emitter tints if you shine it on something a few inches away at low power. Anything beyond that and all the tints mix together into a single completely uniform beam. There are no weird edges or shadows.


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## Charles L. (Mar 24, 2014)

Got my SC62d at lunch. Much too bright outside to assess brightness and tint, but I did take the light into a dark bathroom and check for flickering on the lowest two moonlight settings. (and yes, I did program the light to show the lowest low, then reprogrammed to show the second-lowest). I have a fresh-off-the-charger Eagletac 3400 in the light if that matters. No flickering! At least not yet...

What a remarkably small light for a 1x18650. Good first impressions, but then I've only had it for an hour  We'll see if its output is sufficient to relegate the SC600 II L2's to second-favorite status.


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## GunnarGG (Mar 24, 2014)

Swede74,
the pic that shows all three lights front end shows that the emitter in the SC62d is smaller than the emitter in the xml lights and that gives a more throwy beam than the SC52 I understand. 
How much more throwy is it?
I have the SC52w and am very satisfied with it and brightness (on Eneloops) and runtime is sufficient enough for me so I don't feel any need to buy the SC62d.
But sometimes even if I like the floody beam of the SC52w I would appreciate a little more concentrated hotspot and maybe less bright spill compared to center.

Not that I want to reach very long distance but more to reach let's say 3 or 5 m without spreading a lot of lumens around.
With a tighter beam it's possible to use a lower total output.

So if you compare SC52 and SC62d, is there a noticable difference in "throwyness"?

This might be what makes me buy a new light for quite some time...


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## Swede74 (Mar 24, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Swede74:
> You seem like an amiable chap. Would you be so kind as to confirm that when you program the low mode, you are seeing three options and that one of them is virtually only visible by looking directly into the emitter? And that you see no variation in intensity on that lowest setting? Thank You for your tolerance. I have been thinking some members here say they have no flickering when maybe they have not found that lowest low mode. Since you have multiple ZL's, you would know how to find the different light levels to program.
> 
> The pictures are great! The meat item looks more palatable under the light of the SC62d



Thank you Kitrobaskin. I can confirm that I am seeing three options, one of which is very low. On my SC62d I am unable to detect any flicker or pulse at all on any brightness level. On my SC52 (Cool white XML) however, I have noticed what I would describe as a steady pulse, (1-1.5 Hz) at the lowest possible setting. Other members have made the same observation and reported in this thread: 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?349811-Zebralight-SC52-Owner-s-Thread&p=4117105&viewfull=1#post4117105 

I was able to capture this on camera. The first few seconds of the video shows the SC52 at its lowest setting, at ~00:15 I switch to SC62d, and at ~00:30 back to SC52. 

View My Video


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## Swede74 (Mar 24, 2014)

GunnarGG said:


> Swede74,
> the pic that shows all three lights front end shows that the emitter in the SC62d is smaller than the emitter in the xml lights and that gives a more throwy beam than the SC52 I understand.
> How much more throwy is it?
> I have the SC52w and am very satisfied with it and brightness (on Eneloops) and runtime is sufficient enough for me so I don't feel any need to buy the SC62d.
> ...



I'm going for a walk in a couple of hours, and needless to say I will be bringing the SC62d, and the SC52 to compare tints, brightness levels and beam profiles. Judging by what I see when I aim both lights side by side at a white wall from ~2 meters, I would say that the SC62d has a smaller, more focused hotspot, which should translate into more throw. I will update this post with my findings later tonight, or tomorrow morning if I fall asleep before I get a chance.

Update: Unfortunately it was a foggy night; not ideal for beam profile studies, but as far as I can tell, the SC62d does indeed throw further than the SC52 at comparable output levels. As for spill, I didn't see much of a difference between the lights, but again, conditions were far from ideal. So if you want a light with a little more concentrated hotspot, the SC62d might be worth looking into, but if you want one that also has a defined edge to the spill beam, you should probably consider something with a smooth reflector.


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## markr6 (Mar 24, 2014)

I don't really even consider my SC52w floody; just a torch with a huge hotspot like my Fenix PD32UE. The SC62d is difinitely more throwy with that focused hotspot, and a little more than the SC600wII as well. The 600 obviously throws futher with that increased output. The SC52w also comes close with it's 500lm burst mode but your eyes still play tricks on you with that huge hotspot.

Of all three, I like the SC600w II beam the best and find it the most useful. Even for someone that likes floodier lights, I wish the SC52w had a bit more throw.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 24, 2014)

Thank You Swede74.

Twice it has been brought up and no response. I am going to guess that the SC62d has about 3500 lux. Not a thrower but very nice balance. Wish someone would come up with an accurate number for throw.


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## Charles L. (Mar 24, 2014)

Well, this little light has me intrigued so far. I'm not much of a tint snob, but I do like the tint of the SC62d. It makes the SC600II L2 (and all other cool whites in my collection) look blue; the SC600w II L2 look yellow; and the L3 Illumination L10 with Nichia 219 look pink.

I like the shallower recess for the switch. The SC600's is more of a deep dish, which makes getting my thumb in the recess a bit difficult. I find myself carrying the SC600 in an overhand grip using my ring finger to access the switch -- works pretty well! The SC62d's switch is easier to access, but still sufficiently protected from inadvertent activation. And of course the overhand ring-finger technique still works, but so does my thumb.

Mixed feelings about the clip. Those screws look pretty soft, and the clip itself is too shiny and attention-getting.

For a 1x18650 light, it is very easy to carry in one's pocket. Slightly thicker, but shorter, than the Olight S20 L2.

Output is good, but doesn't command attention like the SC600 does. Hot spot is more focused than that of the SC600, but I agree with markr6 that it doesn't seem to throw as well since it has less output. So lower output and tighter hotspot without the benefit of greater throw… hmm, those other advantages better be pretty good 

Checked and double-checked for flickering on the two lowest moonlight settings -- none so far.

I like it a lot, but not sure it will dethrone the SC600 for my uses.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 24, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> I also pulled the trigger, though I probably won't get mine till next week. Zebralight.com was out of stock, but Amazon still had a few.
> 
> Will be interesting to see how the high CRI compares to some of my other lights. My other lights with good color rendition:
> 
> ...


got mine today


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## GunnarGG (Mar 25, 2014)

Swede74 said:


> Update: Unfortunately it was a foggy night; not ideal for beam profile studies, but as far as I can tell, the SC62d does indeed throw further than the SC52 at comparable output levels. As for spill, I didn't see much of a difference between the lights, but again, conditions were far from ideal. So if you want a light with a little more concentrated hotspot, the SC62d might be worth looking into, but if you want one that also has a defined edge to the spill beam, you should probably consider something with a smooth reflector.




Thanks for that, Swede!

Sounds like the SC62d would fit me.
I'm not ready to order yet but maybe next week.
I have a few ZL and like the UI and one of those ZL is the H502d so I know it's a nice tint.


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## Erik1213 (Mar 25, 2014)

Well, mine has started to act strange. After several hours of on time (moonlight mode at night) the light started to "misfire" when I pressed the switch. I would have to act like the light was on, wait a few seconds, turn the light "off" even though it wasn't on and try again. It always started on the second time and the only time it wouldn't come on the first time was when I was going for the low mode.

However, it has now started to do the same thing for the high mode too. Press button - nothing. Wait a few seconds, press button, wait again, and turn the light on. It's happening about 33% of the time. 

I will give it a few more days, if it doesn't get any better, I guess I will start the RMA process with Zebralight so I can get a, hopefully, correctly working one.

I also noticed that they are now listed as "Out of stock". I wonder whats going on there...


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 25, 2014)

I am going to RMA and exchange mine when the bugs get worked out before my 12 month warranty expires, I hope they get it worked out before then. Flicker on lower two modes...


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## Etsu (Mar 25, 2014)

With all the complaints about flickering moonlight modes, I'm beginning to think this is a fundamental design flaw, not a manufacturing defect. Perhaps the Luxeon LED isn't as reliable at very low current when compared to the usual Cree LEDs that Zebralight uses? How this problem passed their QA process (do they even have one???) I have no idea.

My guess is that ZL will "fix" this problem by getting rid of the lowest moonlight modes. :-(


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 25, 2014)

Etsu said:


> With all the complaints about flickering moonlight modes, I'm beginning to think this is a fundamental design flaw, not a manufacturing defect. Perhaps the Luxeon LED isn't as reliable at very low current when compared to the usual Cree LEDs that Zebralight uses? How this problem passed their QA process (do they even have one???) I have no idea.
> 
> My guess is that ZL will "fix" this problem by getting rid of the lowest moonlight modes. :-(



My guess is flickering at low modes is a driver issue of some kind. Probably not the LED.

Mine should arrive in 8 days. Hopefully it won't flicker.


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## Glock27 (Mar 25, 2014)

Mine doesn't flicker at all on any of the low modes. If there was a design flaw, they all would do it.
G27


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 25, 2014)

Glock27 said:


> Mine doesn't flicker at all on any of the low modes. If there was a design flaw, they all would do it.
> G27



Agreed. Probably something to do with the construction or assembly of the driver or driver components.


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## tmok2000 (Mar 25, 2014)

Mine doesn't flicker -- all modes work as they should. Anodization is also flawless. I probably lucked out this time. To be honest, the two lowest modes are pretty useless IMHO. I like the default M1 and L1 settings. On the high, I dialed it down one notch (to H2 145 lumens). H1 is too bright for most of my usage patterns, which are primarily indoor. I lose only a little bit of light, but there is still plenty. In return, the head doesn't warm up as much, and I got 9 hours of run-time. If needed, I can always get the H1 back with a double click.

The sc62d is probably the smallest and lightest 18650 light that one can buy right now. It also has very long run-time at the 320 lumen level. Most other lights step down after a few minutes of use. The high color rendition index is just gravy. On balance, I think the sc62d is the perfect EDC light at the moment (if you happen to receive a perfect one, that is). :twothumbs


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## Derek Dean (Mar 25, 2014)

Hey, tmok2000, welcome to CPF!
I'm glad to hear you got one of the good ones. I'm still waiting for a replacement light. At least it sounds from your description like it will be worth the wait.

Oh, by the way, a word of warning. Flashlights are like potato chips, one is never enough :devil:.


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## Swede74 (Mar 25, 2014)

A few outdoor beamshots. Zebralight SC52 @ 500 lumen on the left, Zebralight SC62d @ 320 lumen on the right. 

















Exposure time: 1/4 sec
ISO speed: ISO-400


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## Etsu (Mar 25, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> My guess is flickering at low modes is a driver issue of some kind. Probably not the LED.



Okay, could be. Maybe the problems with flickering aren't as common as what it seems like on this thread.


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## Charles L. (Mar 25, 2014)

No flicker on mine either. Of course I've only had it about 30 hours. Maybe the newer ones are less prone to flicker? Or maybe it will start to flicker after a bit of use….?


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## Derek Dean (Mar 25, 2014)

Swede74,
Thanks for the comparison beam shots. They really show off the quality of light from the SC62d's Hi CRI emitter. It also looks like the SC62d, while not a thrower, does pretty well next to the 500 lumen SC52.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 25, 2014)

Just damn. Seems like I'm one of the only recent recipients with flicker. Just my luck.


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## Derek Dean (Mar 26, 2014)

Just a quick heads-up for those who might have recently returned your SC62d to ZL for replacement because of flickering. I just got a nice note from ZL saying they had received my light, and apologizing for the two week delay it will take to ship me a new one. 

As far as I'm concerned, it's no big deal. Over the past 15 years or so, I'd guess I've had to return 50-60% of electronic equipment that I've bought, for one reason or another. It's just part of the game. 

My only quibble is that ZL required me to pay the return shipping charges for a defective light. That alone will make me reconsider ordering from their site again.


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## Charles L. (Mar 26, 2014)

Guess I've been lucky so far, having returned only one light to date: a titanium Jetbeam with a tint that was like peering through a vial of chlorophyll. Couldn't take that tint when spending that much. My one and only titanium light.

I agree that it's poor customer service for ZL to require you to pay shipping for a defective light.

I'm enjoying this little SC62d. It's smaller than my RCR123-powered Nitecore SRT3. Having said that, when I really needed light for a late-night walk yesterday, I reached for the SC600.... For my aging eyes, brightness > tint.


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## Swede74 (Mar 27, 2014)

I tried to measure tailcap current on the SC62d, but I'm not sure I did it the right way. On some levels the DMM readout would fluctuate (e.g., on L1 from 4.33 to 4.42 mA) for a short while then stabilize. On H1 (320 lm) however, the value on the display kept jumping up and down from 1.5~1.8 A and would not "settle down". Anyway, in case someone is interested, here are the results I got - to be taken with at least a spoonful of salt. 



Zebralight SC62d / Eagletac 18650 (white/green) 3400 mAh ModeCurrentoff (standby)17 µAL1 (1.9 lm)4.34 mAL2 (0.07 lm)0.92 mAM1 (36 lm)83.9 mAM2 (6.6 lm)13.4 mAH1 (320 lm)1.50~1.80 AH2 (66 lm)0.17 A


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 28, 2014)

I received my SC62d today. Here are my initial impressions:

*Fit and Finish*: The SC62d has glossy dark grey anodizing. It's much glossier than any of my previous Zebralights. The finish is also surprisingly poorly done. Mine had the following cosmetic defects:

(a) missing anodizing around the right side of the switch button area. It isn't just a spec either. It's missing for over half a cm right along that edge. The missing ano feels rough and is immediately obvious when pressing the switch.

(b) the tailcap anodizing is very uneven. Light grey matching the body on the grooves, but much darker grey on the bottom of the cap and on the ring at the top of the cap above the grooves. Even worse, there are splotches of light anodizing on the dark ring and splotches of dark anodizing on the light grooves.

(c) the tailcap threads felt gritty and dirty out of the box, though they were lubed.

(d) the o-ring at the tailcap is quite large. This means waterproofing should be good, but turning the tailcap takes a lot of strength. More lube should probably be added to the o-ring.

When I place my $85 SC62d next to my $59 Sunwayman C20C, the Sunwayman's perfect finish looks vastly better. The Zebralight looks like a budget light in comparison.

*Shape*:
One thing that looks and feels a little out of place on the SC62d is the tailcap. It looks too large. I think the light would look better with a smaller cap that's closer in dimension to the width of the body. On the upside, the large tailcap means that it tailstands perfectly. 

The edge of the clip ring sticks out to the same level as the tailcap. The inside of this ring is also quite sharp and doesn't feel comfortable against the hands. It would be nice if it were rounded off in future manufacturing runs.

The SC62d looks a bit more balanced than the SC52 and there's more to hang onto. It features Zebralight's distinctive ribbed body shape introduced with the SC52. The shape looks ok, but I'd have preferred it if the light had knurling. The SC80 might not have been the prettiest Zebralight around, but it had the most secure feeling grip of any flashlight I own thanks to its superb knurling.

*New switch*: This was my first chance to try the new softer switch. While I still prefer the slightly stiffer switch on the SC600, SC80, and SC52, I think this switch is sufficient and should get the job done. Too early to tell if accidental pocket activation will be an issue.

*Output*: As expected the SC62d is no barn-burner. The light that comes out is of a pleasing tint and in a nice pattern with small hotspot. But it can't compare in either throw or flood to a well driven XM-L2 or even XP-G2. My early generation 750 lumen SC600 easily out-throws the SC62d... as does my 500 lumen DQG tiny 18650 with neutral T6 emitter. When I want to light up a house I'll reach for my modded Sunwayman C20C with five times the output. If I want throw I'll reach for a modded zoomie with a dedomed XP-G2. But as a general use light for walking around the house or outside with very long runtimes, the SC62d should get the job done.

*Flickering*: I tested my light in all 6 pre-programmed modes and experienced no flickering on any mode. I did not try reprogramming to get to hidden low modes though.

*Strobe modes*: I like the new strobe modes. Out of the way so accidental activation probably won't be an issue, but they're there if you need them.

*Batteries*: The SC62d worked perfectly on my 18650 cells. It even worked fine with low resistance IMR cells... something that has sometimes caused other Zebralights to malfunction. I tested it with:
3100 mAh Zebralight brand 18650
2100 mAh Panasonic 20r 18650 INR
1600 mAh AW IMR 18650

*Overall impression*: A nice small, long runtime king. At 40g without battery, it's the smallest 18650 light available ... tied with the vastly inferior DQG 18650. Despite its flaws this might be just the light to get if runtime and pocketability are what you need. However, If you want a light to impress your friends with, the SC62d probably isn't a good choice due to it's low output and unimpressive cosmetics.

NOTE: The tailcap on the SC62d is interchangeable with the tailcap on the SC600.


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## Swede74 (Mar 29, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Swede74:Would you be so kind as to confirm that when you program the low mode, you are seeing three options and that one of them is virtually only visible by looking directly into the emitter? And that you see no variation in intensity on that lowest setting? Thank You for your tolerance. I have been thinking some members here say they have no flickering when maybe they have not found that lowest low mode.





Swede74 said:


> I can confirm that I am seeing three options, one of which is very low. On my SC62d I am unable to detect any flicker or pulse at all on any brightness level.



Update 2014-03-29:

After a few days of use (roughly 10 hours in various modes + one full night in the lowest low) I realized yesterday that my SC62d had started to flicker noticeably on the lowest low setting. There was no flickering on any of the other settings. At this time the battery voltage was ~3.8 V (two flashes on the built-in battery indicator). I recharged the battery and now, with a fully charged battery, the light no longer flickers. I will report back if this happens again next time the battery is down to a lower voltage.

Update 2014-03-29, a couple of hours later:

The flickering has now returned. Since the battery is still almost fully charged, it seems likely (to the layperson) that the reason the flickering temporarily disappeared is that the light was left overnight without a battery installed, and has nothing to do with voltage. One thing that puzzles me is that it returned so quickly - although it can be easily overlooked I am reasonably sure the light didn't flicker when I first got it, or the morning after it had been on throughout the night, so it took quite a while to induce the issue the first time. Perhaps longer time without a battery installed will result in a longer flicker-free period?


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 29, 2014)

After playing with the SC62d a little more I've decided that it doesn't actually feel very comfortable in the hand. This is because:

(a) the mounting ring at the back of the light that holds the clip is sharp edged, and protrudes much further from the body than in the SC52. This edges digs into the hand and isn't comfortable.
(b) the glossy anodizing is a little too smooth and decreases grip. Important because the light has no knurling and the clip can't be comfortably removed because doing so exposes the sharp mounting point.
(c) the tailcap is too wide. It should've been narrower and closer in thickness to the body tube.

So far I'm not impressed. This is the first Zebralight that I'm thinking would be better modded. The anodizing could be chemically removed, then the sharp edges and the clip mount filed off, then the entire thing polished up.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 29, 2014)

Got mine yesterday. The finish is different than my 52 and 600 II. The color is a little darker but smoother, it kind of has a plastic or painted look but not really, hard to explain, its what a ZL might look like if carried in a pocket for a while - not worn or scratched , just smooth. This doesn't bother me. The anodized parts may be a different procedure the previous ZLs. But it's light. Not much aluminum in the body. Tail cap seems a bit big but must be that way to stand and the color of the coating on it is not uniform, as is the exterior is not perfect like my other ZLs. The light beam is like my 600 II but with out any spill and _*less bright*_,(of course) so it seems to have the beam size/shape as the 600 II but without the side spill flood. I wish it had tighter beam and more output. The beam color is nice, to me it seems warm but both my other ZLs are cool versions. But in my white bathroom the ceiling bounce shows a pure clean white color, my other have that little bit of green on a white surface shot. The clip is the same as on a 52. It is small and better than a 600 for edc. The head of the 62 is the same size as the 52.

more observations to come later


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## Charles L. (Mar 29, 2014)

I'm actually starting to like mine more now that I've had it for a few days. Still no flicker on the lowest moonlight modes… perhaps it's just a matter of time? Initial impressions of this ZL are naturally clouded by the crazy-high output of the SC600 II L2, in comparison to which the SC62d seems dim. But what other light has this combination of small size, good-if-not-great output, low moonlight modes, long runtimes, and neutral tint (truly neutral to my eyes, not pink like my Nichias)? 

For size I have to compare it to some of my AA or CR-123 lights: JetBeam RRT-0 and Nitecore SRT3, for example, are actually larger. SRT3 has higher output, but for a really short time in comparison. Closest 18650 light I have is the Olight S20-L2, which is still longer and has no true moonlight mode.

Re: anodizing and tailcap width, mine has no chips I can see although the color is not uniform. Light tail stands nicely, which is important to me. And really, don't all Zebralights look just a bit goofy?


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 29, 2014)

Just finished reviewing the last half of this thread. Very interesting read. Same old issues that ZL elicits. In addition to the flickering, there have been some other, serious problems. There have been so many valuable observations. This light has attracted a fine group of enthusiasts. Everyone has been very responsible with their comments. Think I was the only one who drifted into the kind of fluff/chit chat that so many threads fall prey to. 

I will be posting in the 'Must Have Flashlight Thread' soon; giving the SC62d first position. When I need throw, I'll use a companion torch with the proper reflector and LED. The 62 does everything else for me at night. If the fluctuation I am getting on second lowest low (which is fairly rare) does not get worse, I will not be returning it.

This light has made my formerly favorite flashlights 'too cool' in tint, both indoors and outside. It has even caused me to gain increased appreciation for the Nichia 219. The second lowest low and L1 are perfect options for dark adapted eyes. It seems I can always find the right light level for the circumstances in one, two, or occasionally three clicks.

The long runtime, light weight and nice, compact size and tint makes for a torch that is just so comfortable to live with.


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## RIX TUX (Mar 30, 2014)

I got two, one is for sale ......Anybody?


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## markr6 (Mar 31, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> The finish is different than my 52 and 600 II. The color is a little darker but smoother, it kind of has a plastic or painted look but not really, hard to explain, its what a ZL might look like if carried in a pocket for a while - not worn or scratched , just smooth.



I know exactly what you mean. Originally I was excited to update my older models to this new color, but after looking at my "gold" SC52w, I'm on the fence. I think the new color looks more like what you'd expect from a flashlight, but I'm starting to miss the gold-ish olive color. No big deal.

I really feel wasteful now...about a dozen lights just sitting around and this is becoming the only one I use!


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## marinemaster (Mar 31, 2014)

I have been using mine for a while now. I like it a lot but the switch is too soft, just too soft. About half the time I end up changing the level when I turn it on inadvertently. Let's just say that the switch is "very touchy" and is hard to predict what level you will get. 
Another observation is that the surface or the touch area of the switch is too small so is harder to control. 

The silver ring around the rubber switch could be smaller and the rubber switch could be bigger.


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## NJMS (Mar 31, 2014)

Hi All

Would someone be able to confirm if the SC62D fits into the zebralight rubber headlight holder of a H600.

I'm thinking of buying one and putting it on the top strap of my H600FW MkII for a second light / little more throw if required to spot a trail marker (Either that or I'll just hold it if required). I'm into trail ultramarathons and my H600FW rocks. Did one in NZ a week ago and everyone asked what my headlight was and they all thought it was awesome. Some races require as manditory equipment a second backup light. Figured a second 18650 light (I'll have spare batteries anyway with me) with a little more throw than the H600FW might be a nice choice. 

The low weight and compact size are appealing in the SC62D. Jees I'm turing into a ZL hollic I think, Maybe I just want an excuse to buy another one.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 31, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> I have been using mine for a while now. I like it a lot but the switch is too soft, just too soft. About half the time I end up changing the level when I turn it on inadvertently. Let's just say that the switch is "very touchy" and is hard to predict what level you will get.
> Another observation is that the surface or the touch area of the switch is too small so is harder to control.
> 
> The silver ring around the rubber switch could be smaller and the rubber switch could be bigger.



Zebralights used to have big raised, very soft-touch buttons. There were loads of complaints about accidental pocket activation.

To solve this problem, starting with the SC600 Zebralight switched to smaller, harder to press, and deeply recessed switches. I think this was a great change as it meant that tailcap lockout was no-longer required. The lights are much more convenient for pocket carry.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 31, 2014)

NJMS said:


> Hi All
> 
> Would someone be able to confirm if the SC62D fits into the zebralight rubber headlight holder of a H600.



It certainly does, quite nicely. I didn't think of putting my glow in the dark silicone flashlight holder on the top strap. There is a complication in that the holder has a slot at the top to accept one end of the top strap. One could get another silicone holder or just loop the loose top strap around the horizontal part of the headstrap. I'll try that tonight.

I actually don't care for the weight of a headlamp on my forehead, so I have the SC62 on the side, using a slightly modified NiteIze headstrap, allowing the light to angle downward toward the ground,and placed further forward to minimize side scatter getting into my eye.

I have been experimenting with my Oveready compact 18650 P60 host in the silicone holder on one side of my head (it is lighter than the largest SureFire headlamp) and the SC62d fitted through the loop that is sewn on the other end of the top strap where it attaches to the horizontal headstrap. That way, I have two lights on the headstrap for short duration. As a safety precaution, I use a lanyard as a safety connection on the flashlight to the headstrap.

The SC62 is very light on the head by itself.


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## marinemaster (Mar 31, 2014)

Fireclaw I had the SC with the bigger very soft switch I don't recall if it was the SC50 or SC51 and it did turn in the pocket. 
The SC62d is recessed so it will not turn on by itself, but is just too soft.
I prefer the switch on the SC52 better.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 31, 2014)

Having the SC62 on the top strap of the ZebraLight headstrap might work out for some people. My head is rather crowned as opposed to flat on the top so the weight of the light makes it fairly jiggly, laterally. It does work though. I just prefer it on the side of the head.

Just wondering if those members who are used to the ZL switches that feel significantly different from the SC62 may be having more of an issue than those who have no previous experience. I had a harder, SC52 switch from last Spring that was good, but this new switch doesn't distract me. Gave the SC52 to my mother last fall so haven't had it for a while.

I am less inclined to mess up a button press on the 62 than the half presses on a Nitecore TM26, and the switch on the Nitecore P12 is just a little too stiff for such a light, my opinion (it's OK, though). One can only hope the ZL switch is long lasting: I use it a lot.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 31, 2014)

marinemaster said:


> Fireclaw I had the SC with the bigger very soft switch I don't recall if it was the SC50 or SC51 and it did turn in the pocket.
> The SC62d is recessed so it will not turn on by itself, but is just too soft.
> I prefer the switch on the SC52 better.



Zebralight explained previously that they changed the switch for the newest models because the switch manufacturer changed their design. The old switch from the SC600 through SC52 was no longer available.

While I prefer the older stiffer switch from the SC52 better, I don't think the SC62d's switch is that bad.


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## markr6 (Apr 1, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Zebralight explained previously that they changed the switch for the newest models because the switch manufacturer changed their design. The old switch from the SC600 through SC52 was no longer available.
> 
> While I prefer the older stiffer switch from the SC52 better, I don't think the SC62d's switch is that bad.



I'm really starting to get used to it. I hardly use my SC52w anymore; when I did last night, I woke my wife up with all the clicking LOL! Something in between the soft and hard click would be ideal, basically what my H52w has. There's a little variance between all of mine.

I took my wife to a broadway musical last night for her birthday gift and used my SC62d to read the program. Moonlight mode was great without distracting others. The ushers on the other hand were blinding everyone with their $2.99 Walmart blue 5-LED lights.


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## Slumber (Apr 3, 2014)

Has anyone received a light with a poorly centered emitter? I've been lucky enough with my previous Zebras, but this may be my first dose of their infamous hit or miss QC. 









Once it gets dark, I'll see if it affects the beam or not and decide whether or not it needs to go back.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 3, 2014)

Mine looks properly centered.


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## Etsu (Apr 3, 2014)

Since these are such floody lights, I doubt a poorly centered LED will affect the beam too much. I certainly wouldn't want that in a thrower, though.


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## phantom23 (Apr 3, 2014)

It's not very floody. Numbers aren't great but that's because it's not very bright flashlight.


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## markr6 (Apr 5, 2014)

I recently noticed the coating on my SC600w II is very obvious, but the SC62d doesn't appear at all. Still loving both of these lights!!!


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## jak (Apr 7, 2014)

Slumber Pass said:


> Has anyone received a light with a poorly centered emitter? I've been lucky enough with my previous Zebras, but this may be my first dose of their infamous hit or miss QC.
> 
> Once it gets dark, I'll see if it affects the beam or not and decide whether or not it needs to go back.


Mine is not perfectly centered, but that doesn't seem to hinder the performance at all. (It doesn't appear to be as off-center as yours though.)


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## Slumber (Apr 7, 2014)

jak said:


> Mine is not perfectly centered, but that doesn't seem to hinder the performance at all. (It doesn't appear to be as off-center as yours though.)



I didn't notice an affect on the beam either, but I didn't look too closely. I ended up sending it back. This sounds backwards, but if I didn't like the light so much, I would have just kept it. The thing is that I REALLY like this light and see myself wanting to use it quite a bit. It would have annoyed me that a light I like so much looked so ugly. Maybe I'm crazy. I don't want some perfect museum piece either. I plan to beat this one up quite a bit, however a factory flaw like that was just to much for me.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Apr 7, 2014)

Don't feel bad, that off centering was out of bounds. I woulda shipped it back too. Still going to send mine back once the flickering issue gets worked out.


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## GunnarGG (Apr 8, 2014)

I've got my sc62d now and I like it. 
Nice tint and beam.
My H50.2d seems slightly cooler but it's hard to compare since the beam profiles are so different.

The emitter is centered.
The ano is a bit uneven.
It looks almost like it's painted and need one more layer on one side but not on the other.
Doesn't bother me though, I'll guess it will be scratched up in a year or two anyway.

No flickering on low except maybe it can look like a fast pwm on the lowest setting. Absolutely not pulsating.
Not very obvious and doesn't matter to me.

Compared to sc52w it feels better in hand because of the larger size.

I like them both!


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## lightmyfire13 (Apr 8, 2014)

Did have slight flicker on my sc62d on lowest setting (0.01) thats now gone but it wouldn't always turn on at that mode but again that seems to have gone,tested it by switching on n off 50+ times in a row on lowest without probs.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 8, 2014)

GunnarGG said:


> I've got my sc62d now and I like it.
> Nice tint and beam.
> My H50.2d seems slightly cooler but it's hard to compare since the beam profiles are so different.
> 
> ...



Pretty much exactly my experience with the SC62d after having had it a few weeks now.
1. Emitter is centered and have no flickering.
2. Beautiful tint and beam pattern.
3. Like the long runtime... can pick it up and know it's ready to go. Unlike with my customized modded overdriven pocket-rockets where the first thing I want to do is put in a fresh cell.
4. Nice size for an 18650 light. Feels better in the hand than the SC52. I even like the new softer sideswitch though I think the old one was probably a bit better for pocket carry.
5. Low output ... this is one light that's not going to wow anyone with a wall of light. Definitely no match in either throw or flood to any of my modded lights. Even my smaller 16340 and 14500 sized modded lights have 2-3x the output and my slightly larger single 18650 modded lights have 5-6x the output.
6. Ugly anodizing - came with missing chunks near the button and very uneven around the tailcap. Glossy finish looks more like cheap paint than quality ano. On the upside these are really just cosmetic issues as the ano is fairly tough.


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## RIX TUX (Apr 8, 2014)

I like this light but it is to expensive for what it is, it shouldn't be as much as the SC600 II.


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## GunnarGG (Apr 9, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> I like this light but it is to expensive for what it is, it shouldn't be as much as the SC600 II.



It cost $10 less than SC600 II, at least on ZL webpage.
There is a little more metal in the SC600 but otherwise I don't think the SC62 cost much less to manufacture.
It's about the same components and work.


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## RIX TUX (Apr 9, 2014)

GunnarGG said:


> It cost $10 less than SC600 II, at least on ZL webpage.
> There is a little more metal in the SC600 but otherwise I don't think the SC62 cost much less to manufacture.
> It's about the same components and work.


I know the prices well. But the Sc52 is $59 and has more output than the Sc62.


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## Charles L. (Apr 9, 2014)

OK, but unless I'm mistaken the SC52 only has higher output with a 14500 for one minute, then it steps down to 280 lumens. And can only keep that for about an hour.


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## GunnarGG (Apr 9, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> I know the prices well. But the Sc52 is $59 and has more output than the Sc62.



Yes, you are right about that.

I wonder what determines the price difference.

I don't think the output itself makes one flashlight more expensive than another. Not talking specificly about ZL.

One emitter may cost more than another.
(looking at illuminationgear website Eagletac D25A2 cost $5 less with XP-G2 compared to XM-L, looking at D25LC2 there is a $11 difference. :thinking

I don't know about the price difference between the emitter in the SC62d compared to XM-L in the SC52.

The SC62 and SC52 are very similar and the manufacturing should be similar but the SC62 a little larger and more material and time/wear on equipment.

The guts a probably about the same.


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## markr6 (Apr 10, 2014)

GunnarGG said:


> I wonder what determines the price difference.



I wonder if it has to do with quantity? Maybe they planned on the SC52 selling 10x as much due to using two common emitters and a standard AA battery. The SC62d is more of a "specialty" light IMO. Possibly just testing sales of a new high CRI/18650 combo?

p.s. The SC62d is my favorite light and I use it all the time. However, I wouldn't be surprised if ZL discontinues it fairly soon. And not to keep beating a dead horse, but I just can't believe they don't plan on making a CW and NW version!


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## rpm00 (Apr 10, 2014)

I got this light last night. A few initial comments (others have shared the same things)
- The tint is beautiful
- Output is sufficient but doesn't blow you away like the SC600 MKII
- The annodization isn't nearly as nice as my SC52 or the SC600 MKII. It's a little more slippery and feels cheaper. The annodization on my SC52 is just perfect, but the SC62d left me a little disappointed to be honest. 
- The switch is squishier than the other ZLs but not really a problem. 

Overall I like it, but it doesn't wow me like my SC52 and SC600 MKII.


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## lightmyfire13 (Apr 10, 2014)

Bit off topic but my victorinox leather holster fits perfectly. ......


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## RIX TUX (Apr 10, 2014)

rpm00 said:


> I got this light last night. A few initial comments (others have shared the same things)
> - The tint is beautiful
> - Output is sufficient but doesn't blow you away like the SC600 MKII
> - The annodization isn't nearly as nice as my SC52 or the SC600 MKII. It's a little more slippery and feels cheaper. The annodization on my SC52 is just perfect, but the SC62d left me a little disappointed to be honest.
> ...


yep.......
nice tint, nice output for everyday tasks and good runtimes but there is not that that 500 - 900 lmn burst could and should be there.
I think all switches on zl's wiil be like this now, I'm ok with it
it uses 18650 battery so why not have more output? c'mon zl


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## RIX TUX (Apr 10, 2014)

lightmyfire13 said:


> Bit off topic but my victorinox leather holster fits perfectly. ......



knife? multi tool? flashlight? compass? which holster?


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## lightmyfire13 (Apr 10, 2014)

Victorinox 405233 Black Leather Pouch fits victorinox Forrester knife/multitool


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## LEDburn (Apr 19, 2014)

Maybe the SC62 is as hard to produce as a SC600 but feel due to lower output can't justify the same price?

When I asked them about potential SC62w I was told:

"The board space is bit smaller than what we can manage (production wise) right now. The H600/H602 has a slightly bigger space. But I am sure sooner or later we'll be able to find some smaller components and make it happen."

I have asked why not just focus on runtime and spec it similar to a SC52w and jam the guts from one of them in so will let you know what they say.

From that statement above, it seems they want to have the same hand-frying-high as a SC/H600 which I think is waaay off the mark.
SC62 feels better than a SC52 in my hand and I sure wont notice the lumen deficiency on 500L if it lasts a decent while!!!


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## RIX TUX (Apr 20, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> Maybe the SC62 is as hard to produce as a SC600 but feel due to lower output can't justify the same price?
> 
> When I asked them about potential SC62w I was told:
> 
> ...


I had a sc62 but felt it needed more output. Nice light, felt great, lightweight with a nice beam but would have been better with a turbo blast but the high setting is just right for daily use. And my sc600 II has a 300 setting with more runtime than the sc62 so the sc600 is more versatile and the same cost.


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## markr6 (Apr 21, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> I had a sc62 but felt it needed more output. Nice light, felt great, lightweight with a nice beam but would have been better with a turbo blast but the high setting is just right for daily use. And my sc600 II has a 300 setting with more runtime than the sc62 so the sc600 is more versatile and the same cost.



That's a good way to put it. I agree about the SC600, unless:

1. you want a more comfortable carry/have issues with carrying anything larger than a 1xAA. The SC62d size works really well in a pocket.
2. you are a picky tint snob. Even though I am, the SC600w is still very nice on mine and don't really NEED the SC62d tint. I'm perfectly happy with both of them.


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## LEDburn (Apr 21, 2014)

I asked why SC52 electronics could not be installed with the possibility of having a slightly brighter high. I certainly don't feel the need for 1000+ lumens from a light this size.


This is their respose:

Thanks for your suggestions. George, the man behind all these flashlight/headlamp designs, wanted to have a full blown XM-L2 version similar to the SC600/H600. From what I know, some components such as the extrememly high resolution temperature sensor have gotten in the way that the production process might be too difficult to manage (for example, each SC600/H600 has to go through a lengthy time consuming calibration process to set the PID parameters). I'll pass along your suggstions of having a 'not so fancy' SC62/SC62w that can be produced right now.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 21, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> I asked why SC52 electronics could not be installed with the possibility of having a slightly brighter high. I certainly don't feel the need for 1000+ lumens from a light this size.
> 
> 
> This is their respose:
> ...



Actually, I really like the high output of the SC600. Rather than having the light cap out at 500 lumnens like on the SC52, how about having it run at the same current as an SC600 L2. So around 1000 lumens. Instead of the PID temperature control, just used a timed turbo like on the SC52 or earlier SC600. Maybe 3 minutes at turbo, then step down to 450 lumens.


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## Slumber (Apr 21, 2014)

I like the SC62d as is. I'm not fond of a drastic timed step down or a super high turbo that makes the light too hot to hold. Before the SC62, I only ever used my SC600 in the 356 lumen setting. Loved the output and runtime, but I was willing to sacrifice a little of each for the smaller form factor of the sc62. Tint is awesome and the beam pattern is also nice change in the current sc62. Just my personal preference.


----------



## Fireclaw18 (Apr 21, 2014)

Slumber Pass said:


> I like the SC62d as is. I'm not fond of a drastic timed step down or a super high turbo that makes the light too hot to hold. Before the SC62, I only ever used my SC600 in the 356 lumen setting. Loved the output and runtime, but I was willing to sacrifice a little of each for the smaller form factor of the sc62. Tint is awesome and the beam pattern is also nice change in the current sc62. Just my personal preference.



Different people have different preferences. Usually my EDC gets used for brief periods only and is recharged everyday. So I don't need a runtime king.

The SC62d is a nice light, with a good tint and small form factor for an 18650. But I have 16340 lights that are 3x as bright and half the size. And 18650 lights that are similar in size and 5x as bright. Good tint is nice... but doesn't quite make up for not having good output. And if I want longer runtime... that's what medium modes are for.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan (Apr 22, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> But I have 16340 lights that are 3x as bright and half the size. And 18650 lights that are similar in size and 5x as bright.



Do you mind posting here those lights or PMing them to me? Sounds good!


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 22, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Do you mind posting here those lights or PMing them to me? Sounds good!



Actually in reference to 16340 lights I was thinking of my Xtar WK42. It's smaller and lighter than a Zebralight SC52. In stock form it comes with a cool white XML U2 and outputs 300 lumens on high. It also feels beautiful in the hand.

*I performed the following mods on mine*:
1. Replaced emitter with 5000k XM-L2 neutral white emitter.
2. Replaced stock aluminum star with Noctigon direct copper star
3. Drilled out part of the inside of the head to allow room for a deeper driver.
4. Replaced driver with 3.04 amp Nanjg 105c with DrJones lumodrv firmware. This firmware has an awesome UI: click and hold from off to start at moonlight and then ramp up. Click and hold again to ramp the other way. For ramping, the driver has 34 visually linear brightness steps. Release the button at any point during ramping to stop ramping. Double-click shortcut to max, triple-click for 25%, Quadruple-click for strobe, Quintuple click to enter momentary mode. Single-click from off to turn the light on in last used mode. To turn off the light, click once from on after waiting 2 seconds since last pressing the button. The UI also has hidden blinky and strobe modes, a battery voltage meter, and built-in low-voltage stepdown and cutoff. The shortcuts are also all programmable.
5. Replaced stock switch with Radio Shack micro-momentary tact switch.
6. Replaced driver wire with with 22 gauge silicone
7. Solder-braided the tailcap spring to reduce resistance.

I run the light on IMR 16340 cells. Output at the emitter is around 1100 lumens, which should translate to around 900 or so out the front. It's much brighter than my SC62d or even my early model SC600. Runtime at max power isn't long (about 12 minutes) ... but that's what intermediate modes are for.


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## hatman (Apr 24, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Actually in reference to 16340 lights I was thinking of my Xtar WK42. It's smaller and lighter than a Zebralight SC52. In stock form it comes with a cool white XML U2 and outputs 300 lumens on high. It also feels beautiful in the hand.
> 
> *I performed the following mods on mine*:
> 1. Replaced emitter with 5000k XM-L2 neutral white emitter.
> ...



Thanks, Fireclaw.

It sounds like you are saying that the stock SC52W is brighter with better tint than the stock WK42.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 24, 2014)

hatman said:


> Thanks, Fireclaw.
> 
> It sounds like you are saying that the stock SC52W is brighter with better tint than the stock WK42.



Yes. The stock WK42 isn't that great.... but modded it's awesome.


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## 18650 (Apr 25, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Different people have different preferences. Usually my EDC gets used for brief periods only and is recharged everyday. So I don't need a runtime king. The SC62d is a nice light, with a good tint and small form factor for an 18650. But I have 16340 lights that are 3x as bright and half the size. And 18650 lights that are similar in size and 5x as bright. Good tint is nice... but doesn't quite make up for not having good output. And if I want longer runtime... that's what medium modes are for.


 A bit misleading to say you have others that are 1/2 the size and 3x as bright and leave it at that before coming back later to add the asterisk. If you make half a dozen major mods to any light I'm sure you could turn anything into a hot rod. That's not a revelation nor should it really be counted against anything stock.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 25, 2014)

18650 said:


> A bit misleading to say you have others that are 1/2 the size and 3x as bright and leave it at that before coming back later to add the asterisk. If you make half a dozen major mods to any light I'm sure you could turn anything into a hot rod. That's not a revelation nor should it really be counted against anything stock.



Good point. 

I never said I had stock lights that were 3x as bright in CR123 size, but I can see how others might assume that.

These days I mod 2/3 of the new lights I buy (sometimes with mods considerably more extensive than what I did to that WK42), so I tend to automatically just lump my modded lights with my unmodded lights.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Apr 25, 2014)

Thank you for taking the time to post your mods. Sorry for the late reply. Sounds like a impressive modded light!


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## GunnarGG (May 2, 2014)

The SC62 doesn't work with 2xcr123 but today I tested it with 1xcr123 and it works fine on low and medium.
To be a little Macgyverish I used some tinfoil instead of a proper spacer.
I don't know what runtime to get out of this but I'll guess that it's pretty good on the lower outputs.
Good to know if in a pinch and only have / can get cr123.

Is there any runtime graphs for the sc62?
What voltage does the battery have when you get 1,2,3 or 4 blinks from the batterymeter?
At what voltage does it step down from hi to med and from med to low?
Maybe it's out there but I haven't seen it.

I find it more interesting or at least just as interesting to know how much runtime I have left when I get an indication that the battery is getting low than just knowing total runtime with fresh cell.


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## Swede74 (May 4, 2014)

GunnarGG said:


> Is there any runtime graphs for the sc62?
> What voltage does the battery have when you get 1,2,3 or 4 blinks from the batterymeter?
> At what voltage does it step down from hi to med and from med to low?
> Maybe it's out there but I haven't seen it.
> ...



Hej Gunnar,

I think I have a partial answer for you. The light (my specimen) steps down from high to med when the voltage is somewhere between 2.97 V and 3.28 V. 

The step-down to medium occurred sometime between 6:00 hours and 6:25.

For this test I used a ~2.5 years old AW 2900 mAh cell that has been through a few (<5) full and 20-25 partial cycles.



Zebralight SC62d @145 lumen / AW 2900 mAhTimeVoltageFlashes(H2 - 145 lm)Test #1Test #2
Test #1Test #2
00:00:004.184.184401:00:004.034.024402:00:003.913.90
4 4**03:00:003.753.74N/A*304:00:003.663.652205:00:003.54-2-06:00:003.28-1-06:25:002.97-1-


 

* I forgot to run the built-in battery meter here. I will redo the first three (I actually did four ) hours of the test later today or tomorrow and update the table when I have the missing data. 

** Immediately after the light was turned off the battery meter flashed only three times. I then took the battery out, let it rest a few minutes, checked the voltage with a DMM, and when I reinserted it and tried the built-in meter again, it flashed four times. 

Updated 2014-05-05


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## marinemaster (May 4, 2014)

Slumber Pass said:


> I like the SC62d as is. I'm not fond of a drastic timed step down or a super high turbo that makes the light too hot to hold. Before the SC62, I only ever used my SC600 in the 356 lumen setting. Loved the output and runtime, but I was willing to sacrifice a little of each for the smaller form factor of the sc62. Tint is awesome and the beam pattern is also nice change in the current sc62. Just my personal preference.



+1


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## Swede74 (May 5, 2014)

Battery meter test in post #560 updated.


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## Fireclaw18 (May 5, 2014)

Finally got around to updating my other high CRI light last night.

It's a modded budget Sipik 58 that I made a year or two ago. Previously it had triple Nichia 219A on aluminum star at 3 amps, powered by an IMR 14500. In last night's update I replaced the aluminum star with a direct copper Noctigon, upgraded all wiring to 22 gauge copper, and replaced the emitters with 92 CRI Nichia 219B.

Comparing the output of the triple Nichia 219B with the Zebralight SC62d:
(1) As expected, the triple Nichia is brighter due to its more heavily driven driver. But it's a less useful light due to the smaller cell and vastly shorter runtime on high.
(2) SC62d's color rendering looks slightly washed out compared to the Nichia 219B. It looks like the Nichia 219 is still the king when it comes to high CRI tint.
(3) Compared to any of my other lights, the SC62d's high CRI tint looks quite a bit better. It only looks inferior when compared with the Nichia.


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## markr6 (May 5, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> (2) SC62d's color rendering looks slightly washed out compared to the Nichia 219B. It looks like the Nichia 219 is still the king when it comes to high CRI tint.
> (3) Compared to any of my other lights, the SC62d's high CRI tint looks quite a bit better. It only looks inferior when compared with the Nichia.



Yeah, Nichia still looks much better and natural when comparing the two. SC62d is cooler and it's almost like comparing a NW and CW, but in this case one of them doesn't suck; they're both really nice!


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## GunnarGG (May 6, 2014)

Thanks Swede!

That is very useful info.
I'm still on my first charge, have had my light for almost 1 month now.
Yesterday I noticed 3 flashes for the first time and the battery measured 3.92 V,
used the light a little more and then the battery was down to 3.80 V, still 3 flashes.

In ordinary use I think I would top up the battery at this level but for now I will keep using it and check the batterymeter and voltage.

I am a little surprised that it draines the cell so low before step down from high but that was from H2, maybe it would be a little earlier if run on H1.

I find it very useful to have a meter light this.
When I use my other Li-ion lights (mostly RCR123) I find myself often take out the cell to check voltage just to find that it's still on 4.1 V.
With this light I can just keep using it and know when it's time to charge without the risk of the light suddenly go dark.


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## Slumber (May 6, 2014)

I have been carrying my SC62 now since I received my replacement (around April 10), and it has received more pocket time than any other new light I've purchased in the past. I had pretty much given up buying metric lights, but Zebralight's utility driven design and UI's have kept me interested enough to still give their stuff a shot. Overall I'm very happy with this light.


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## Derek Dean (May 7, 2014)

That's good to hear Slumber Pass. After more than a month, I finally gave up waiting on ZL to send me a replacement and requested a refund (which they took care of in a few hours). Maybe after they get the anodizing problems fixed, and the lower level flickering issues resolved, and ramp up production enough to keep it in stock, I'll consider getting one again. I still think it's form factor and UI can't be beat for an EDC.


----------



## marinemaster (May 7, 2014)

Love the tint on mine. Very pleasing.


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## marinemaster (May 7, 2014)

Dean pm you.


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## markr6 (May 7, 2014)

Total OCD? Or something you would do yourself? LOL.







There was a slight rattle when tapping the light against my hand, so I put a piece of post-it note around the battery. It's just a 2600mAh Samsung I salvaged from a cell phone charging pack, so it's shorter and narrower than a protected cell. I noticed my unprotected (but button top) cells fit a bit tighter due to the clear wrapper so there's less/no rattle.

Actually "rattle" probably isn't the right word but what else to call it?


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## PoliceScannerMan (May 7, 2014)

I would write my name and phone on that post it.


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## GunnarGG (May 9, 2014)

A little update:
2 flashes and battery is 3.63 V
1 flash and battery is 3.41 V
Stepping down from high to med and battery is 3.29


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## KITROBASKIN (May 9, 2014)

Talk about OCD: I like to use only acid free paper inside lights with the smaller diameter batteries. 

Mike, from brightguy.com was kind enough to specifically answer questions I had, before he shipped the SC62d he sold me. I can live with the imperfections he described. The lowest low IS useful for fully dark adapted eyes; as well as the second lowest low. But it may not be, that he would allow you to cherry pick from his stock. Mike told me he only had one SC62 at the time. It is hoped that the next batch will be fully dialed in.

As has been said: Pleasing, soft tint; great size; lightweight; and relatively efficient user interface. The best, non-defensive, shorter range; navigation/around-the-house light I own.

All the other tints seem to be somewhat harsh compared to the Luxeon T 5000K, with the Nichia 219 being very nice, as well; although the contrast is not as pleasing to my eyes, and the browns are over emphasized. The T6 XML2 in my Nitecore P12 looks very cool in comparison to the warm cast of the Luxeon, and when compared with a warm XML2, or the Nichia? Well, the Luxeon looks a bit cool. Out in the field or in the house, the tint is just so non-distracting.



markr6 said:


> Total OCD? Or something you would do yourself? LOL.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## kj2 (May 22, 2014)

Seeing the SC62d in stock at my Zebralight dealer, NKON.


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## KITROBASKIN (May 24, 2014)

On about 4/4/2014, ZebraLight received the (flickering-on-lowest low and second lowest low) light they had sent me from the first batch. Today (5/24), I received the replacement. It is nice. The tailcap is darker, with a couple very minor blotches. The body anodizing is very good. 

Those of you who miss the more defined (very slightly louder) click of the switch would rejoice with this latest sample. Don't know if it is as firm as the earlier switches, but there is a definite difference with my two SC62's. I am fine with both the harder and softer switches, and there's not that much difference, really.

The older one's LED is not perfectly centered. Curiously, I actually like the hotspot it produces. The corona and hotspot seem to be closer in light intensity. The transition from spot to spill is not as abrupt. And even though the the hotspot is not perfectly round, in actual use, it matters not one bit. Kind of like an orange peel reflector, there is not as much of a clear cut line between spill and spot. Is the throw somehow lessened by the not perfectly centered LED? Can't tell any difference on the high levels but there is a definite difference at low levels. The off center LED is not as bright looking, especially on the lowest low but is detectable going up through the mid levels.This newest SC62d's LED appears well centered and the fairly round hotspot attests to that. The lowest low on the centered LED is only a little dimmer than the second lowest low on the off center LED. This is probably common knowledge for the many experienced members here; That is, the off center LED not being able to focus well and a loss of apparent brightness?

Or, it is sample variation in of itself?


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## KITROBASKIN (May 25, 2014)

Sunday morning: SC62d listed in stock on ZL website.


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## Ares (May 25, 2014)

Well, I sent my SC62d back to ZebraLight on March 11th. I finally got it back on May 24th. There's no flickering, the tint is still perfect, and on top of all of that - they made the clicky-switch more clicky (which I like). Also, the button isn't as "soft" as the last model. I think it's a little louder when it clicks as well (but again, I like the audible / tactile feedback). I compared the sound with all my other ZebraLights, and it's definitely the loudest - but not in a bad way. Lastly, the anodization is perfect, and the emitter is perfectly centered.

I'm pretty happy. If I had to gripe about something, it would be the fact that it's more throwy than floody, and that there's no one-minute "turbo" mode like the SC52w. But that's just nit-picking. This torch is great, and the tint puts everything else I own to shame. ZL seems to have fixed the problems - so go get one; it's worth it!


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## KITROBASKIN (May 30, 2014)

Those great guys on the ZL SC52 threads found a titanium clip that works. Since it is the same clip on the SC62d, I had to give it a go. It Works! A member there said he got the long, Nitecore clip from banggood. That is what I got.



Please excuse the mistakes in the video. You can skip the last part of the 2:25 minutes where I am showing other flashlights briefly.


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## KITROBASKIN (May 31, 2014)

Illumination Supply now has the SC62d in stock. Illumn.com isn't it now?


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## Random Dan (May 31, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Those great guys on the ZL SC52 threads found a titanium clip that works. Since it is the same clip on the SC62d, I had to give it a go. It Works! A member there said he got the long, Nitecore clip from banggood. That is what I got.
> 
> 
> Please excuse the mistakes in the video. You can skip the last part of the 2:25 minutes where I am showing other flashlights briefly.


I don't see that clip on the Banggood website. All I can find is this one which looks like a different style. 
http://www.banggood.com/Titanium-Alloy-LED-Flashlight-Clip-For-Nitecore-Jetbeam-Niteye-p-89414.html


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## Dave D (May 31, 2014)

Random Dan said:


> I don't see that clip on the Banggood website. All I can find is this one which looks like a different style.
> http://www.banggood.com/Titanium-Alloy-LED-Flashlight-Clip-For-Nitecore-Jetbeam-Niteye-p-89414.html



That's the one, it was me that posted the info on the SC52 thread, I ordered the *Long *version and what turned up was the clip that looks identicle to the Nitecore Titanium version. I ordered a few and fitted them to my SC52W and also my SWM V11R.


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## Random Dan (May 31, 2014)

Dave D said:


> That's the one, it was me that posted the info on the SC52 thread, I ordered the *Long *version and what turned up was the clip that looks identicle to the Nitecore Titanium version. I ordered a few and fitted them to my SC52W and also my SWM V11R.


I see. How's the retention compared with a standard SC clip?


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## Dave D (May 31, 2014)

Random Dan said:


> I see. How's the retention compared with a standard SC clip?



It's not as tight as the original, it's fine if you're using it on denim or a belt, it wouldn't clip onto a cotton shirt.


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## RIX TUX (May 31, 2014)

WOW.......what is the IS website now? I had it bookmarked for years, now it takes me illum???


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## Slumber (May 31, 2014)

RIX TUX said:


> WOW.......what is the IS website now? I had it bookmarked for years, now it takes me illum???



That's their new name.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jun 1, 2014)

From October 24, 2013:

Thanks for your comments. 
We'll release the specs amd photos for the SC62d next week. The 'd' version will be the only model right now. There will be SC62c, and xp-g2 based SC62g and SC62gw next year. No plans for any XM-L2 based SC62/SC62w. 


Sincerely,


ZebraLight, Inc.
2908 Story Rd. W
Irving, TX 75038

(I'm sticking with the Luxeon T.)


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## markr6 (Jun 2, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> (I'm sticking with the Luxeon T.)



Same here. But it will be nice to see this light (perfect size IMO) with some other options.


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## turkeylord (Jun 2, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> No plans for any XM-L2 based SC62/SC62w.


Awww. :sigh:

Thank you for posting that though, good to know. I guess I'll have to keep carrying my H600wII if I want a compact 18650 XM-L2 light.


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## LEDburn (Jun 2, 2014)

From my post on the previous page; when asked about a SC62 with an XM-L2:

"The board space is bit smaller than what we can manage (production wise) right now. The H600/H602 has a slightly bigger space. But I am sure sooner or later we'll be able to find some smaller components and make it happen."


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## turkeylord (Jun 2, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> From my post on the previous page; when asked about a SC62 with an XM-L2:
> 
> "The board space is bit smaller than what we can manage (production wise) right now. The H600/H602 has a slightly bigger space. But I am sure sooner or later we'll be able to find some smaller components and make it happen."


Gotcha, missed that comment earlier.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jun 3, 2014)

LEDburn said:


> From my post on the previous page; when asked about a SC62 with an XM-L2:
> 
> "The board space is bit smaller than what we can manage (production wise) right now. The H600/H602 has a slightly bigger space. But I am sure sooner or later we'll be able to find some smaller components and make it happen."



Yes, I failed to refer to LEDburn's post. My info is quite a bit older. XPG2 might appeal to some.

What about this XPL (is it?) LED that's coming down the pike. Would that be suitable?


----------



## GeoBruin (Jun 3, 2014)

I would love an XP-G2 neutral version. It would be nice to see a little bit more throw than were used to from a Zebralight and an XP-G2 sized die in a slightly larger reflector might make a nice beam.


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## nilfire77 (Jun 4, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Those great guys on the ZL SC52 threads found a titanium clip that works. Since it is the same clip on the SC62d, I had to give it a go. It Works! A member there said he got the long, Nitecore clip from banggood. That is what I got.
> 
> Please excuse the mistakes in the video. You can skip the last part of the 2:25 minutes where I am showing other flashlights briefly.








This is how the short clip looks like on my SC31c.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jun 4, 2014)

nilfire77 said:


> This is how the short clip looks like on my SC31c.



What would you say is the difference in length between the steel stock clip and the short titanium Nitecore clip? Thanks!


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## bltkmt (Jun 4, 2014)

derfyled said:


> No, not yet. Considering the legendary speed of ZL, I'm expecting it somewhere in the next 4 years...



Has ZL given any official indication of timing on the SC32d? I notice there is no date near it on the Compare All Models link anymore.


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## nilfire77 (Jun 4, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> What would you say is the difference in length between the steel stock clip and the short titanium Nitecore clip? Thanks!


The stock steel clip measures 2" while the banggood short ti clip measures 1.8".


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## lightmyfire13 (Jun 4, 2014)

Got 2 on the way. ...


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## jak (Jun 12, 2014)

It looks as though ZL has dropped the SC32 from their plans, according to their comparison spreadsheet. Removed has been the SC32 and H32 flashlights. I guess that's the end of CR123 sized lights for Zebralight?


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## bltkmt (Jun 12, 2014)

jak said:


> It looks as though ZL has dropped the SC32 from their plans, according to their comparison spreadsheet. Removed has been the SC32 and H32 flashlights. I guess that's the end of CR123 sized lights for Zebralight?



Insert sad face....


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## rpm00 (Jun 12, 2014)

jak said:


> It looks as though ZL has dropped the SC32 from their plans, according to their comparison spreadsheet. Removed has been the SC32 and H32 flashlights. I guess that's the end of CR123 sized lights for Zebralight?



No!!! I've been looking forward to that light for months! A sad day.


----------



## hap124 (Jun 13, 2014)

...................


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## GeoBruin (Jun 14, 2014)

I assume it's just not lucrative for Zebralight to maintain a completely separate line of CR123 lights for the admittedly fringe crowd of people who are willing to purchase CR123 cells. Unfortunately I'm one of those fringe folks and I was really looking forward to the H32 as well.


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## kj2 (Jun 18, 2014)

My Zebralight dealer, NKON, has the SC62d now on sale. €65,-


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## Croquette (Jun 18, 2014)

kj2 said:


> My Zebralight dealer, NKON, has the SC62d now on sale. €65,-



Yup, hesitating to pull the trigger... but it will be difficult to justify another flashlight this month...


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## markr6 (Jun 18, 2014)

Croquette said:


> Yup, hesitating to pull the trigger... but it will be difficult to justify another flashlight this month...



It's ony of my favorites! It could be worth waiting for the SC62w, but the tint on the SC62d is so nice I think it's worth a decrease in output.


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## Bad_JuJu (Jun 18, 2014)

jak said:


> It looks as though ZL has dropped the SC32 from their plans, according to their comparison spreadsheet. Removed has been the SC32 and H32 flashlights. I guess that's the end of CR123 sized lights for Zebralight?



I guess I'll have to keep an eye out for an old sc31 now. I was telling myself to wait for it so i wouldn't feel the need to pick up a sc52.


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## 430Scuderia (Jun 19, 2014)

Bad_JuJu said:


> I guess I'll have to keep an eye out for an old sc31 now. I was telling myself to wait for it so i wouldn't feel the need to pick up a sc52.



I too have been waiting for ZL to bring out the SC32D and it's sad that they chose to shelve it. 

I think everyone who wants a new SC32 should email ZL a nice courteous message letting them know that there is a demand for such a light and they should continue to develop it and bring it to the marketplace.


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## markr6 (Jul 10, 2014)

I just picked up 5 Jetbeam holsters (12cm model) for $2.46 each on fasttech. The SC62d is a perfect fit!

I ordered the 4 others just to have for other lights, but now realize I don't need them. I don't carry holsters on my belt; I mainly purchased these just to protect the light when I carry several at a time in the same bag.


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## jruser (Jul 10, 2014)

I sent an email to Zebralight sales today. They replied that SC62, SC62w, and SC62c will be on sale in one to two weeks.


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## rpm00 (Jul 10, 2014)

jruser said:


> I sent an email to Zebralight sales today. They replied that SC62, SC62w, and SC62c will be on sale in one to two weeks.



What would an SC62w be? XML? Surprised it's not an SC62w-L2.


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## Derek Dean (Jul 10, 2014)

rpm00 said:


> What would an SC62w be? XML? Surprised it's not an SC62w-L2.


Who says it's not :devil:.


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## StandardBattery (Jul 10, 2014)

Derek Dean said:


> Who says it's not :devil:.


Ya i would bet it is... Oh no another light to buy.


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## hatman (Jul 11, 2014)

One to two weeks? Even the supposedly current 62d is still listed as a backorder.

The 62 and 62w are listed only as future products on ZL's comparison chart. They are NOT listed as pre-orders or anything else on the sales site.

The 62c, whatever that may be, isn't listed anywhere that I could find.

I'll believe it when I see it, if then.


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## jak (Jul 11, 2014)

hatman said:


> One to two weeks? Even the supposedly current 62d is still listed as a backorder.
> 
> The 62 and 62w are listed only as future products on ZL's comparison chart. They are NOT listed as pre-orders or anything else on the sales site.
> 
> ...


Time to believe... The SC62c was added this morning for pre-order.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jul 11, 2014)

jak said:


> Time to believe... The SC62c was added this morning for pre-order.



It now says in stock. I think they messed up the description of it, though. It says "high CRI daylight tint", but isn't that what the SC62d is? The 62c has a CCT of 4000k, whereas the 62d is 5000k.


----------



## markr6 (Jul 11, 2014)

StandardBattery said:


> Oh no another light to buy.



My thoughts exactly! SC62w is an absolute must have for me as long as I don't get another greenie XM-L2


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## Derek Dean (Jul 11, 2014)

I ended up having to send my original SC62d back because of the flickering issue on the lower levels, but I'm looking forward to reading some reviews of these new versions, especially the SC62w.


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## GeoBruin (Jul 11, 2014)

I've been trying to put together my ideal EDC, the only requirements of which include a neutral to warm tint, smaller than 4 inches long, reasonably floody , and the ability to get to low and high from off. 

I've put together several surefire E series lights along with Malkoff MDC heads and an Mc2es switch and now I'm looking at one of Tana's triples. Most recently I've caught wind of the Elzetta Alpha which checks all the boxes but I've been on the fence because it's at the absolute outside of my size envelope. 

Now enter the SC62w and I'm looking at a light the size of the Elzetta that will put out 1000 lumens and run on an 18650. 
I may have to wait until the first reviews come in to make my decision.


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## 18650 (Jul 11, 2014)

Just got my SC62d. It looks more like the neutral XM-L used in the Xeno E03 than the pure white of H502d. I have many of the same issues that others have reported, that is spotty anodizing all over and dark tail cap. No green tint like some of the others, more yellow than anything. LED is also not perfectly centered.


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## GeoBruin (Jul 11, 2014)

18650 said:


> Just got my SC62d. It looks more like the neutral XM-L used in the Xeno E03 than the pure white of H502d. I have many of the same issues that others have reported, that is spotty anodizing all over and dark tail cap. No green tint like some of the others, more yellow than anything. LED is also not perfectly centered.



Doesn't the "d" variant use the luxeon emitter as opposed to the XM-L?


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## StandardBattery (Jul 11, 2014)

18650 said:


> Just got my SC62d. It looks more like the neutral XM-L used in the Xeno E03 than the pure white of H502d. I have many of the same issues that others have reported, that is spotty anodizing all over and dark tail cap. No green tint like some of the others, more yellow than anything. LED is also not perfectly centered.





GeoBruin said:


> Doesn't the "d" variant use the luxeon emitter as opposed to the XM-L?



Yes; I believe 18650 was just refering to the tint, he didn't mean physically looks the same.


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## hatman (Jul 11, 2014)

At this writing, the 62d listing now says backorder and the 62c reads pre-order (July 25.)

Can't tell how they differ, if at all. Both claim Luxeon T with 320 lumens at three hours on high.


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## 18650 (Jul 11, 2014)

StandardBattery said:


> Yes; I believe 18650 was just refering to the tint, he didn't mean physically looks the same.


 Yes I should have specified I was talking about the tint. I still have to test for flickering at lower modes.


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## 18650 (Jul 12, 2014)

18650 said:


> Yes I should have specified I was talking about the tint. I still have to test for flickering at lower modes.


 It flickers on the two lowest modes.


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## Derek Dean (Jul 12, 2014)

hatman said:


> At this writing, the 62d listing now says backorder and the 62c reads pre-order (July 25.)
> 
> Can't tell how they differ, if at all. Both claim Luxeon T with 320 lumens at three hours on high.


I believe the SC62d has a color temperature listed as 5000k, while the SC62c has a color temperature listed as 4000k, so the new SC62c will be warmer.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jul 14, 2014)

Got the New Product Announcement email from ZL today about the warm SC62c. Hopefully someone who has the daylight version will also get one of these and let us know what they think.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


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## markr6 (Jul 14, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Got the New Product Announcement email from ZL today about the warm SC62c. Hopefully someone who has the daylight version will also get one of these and let us know what they think.



If it wasn't for the SC62w coming soon, I would probably do this just to compare, then sell whichever one I liked less. Heck, I may still do it anyway!


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 14, 2014)

I wonder if I can send in my SC62d that flickers on low and ask for one of these SC62c in replacement...


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jul 14, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> I wonder if I can send in my SC62d that flickers on low and ask for one of these SC62c in replacement...



If it flickers, ask for your money back, then buy the 62c.


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 14, 2014)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> If it flickers, ask for your money back, then buy the 62c.



Brilliant!


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## d.weglarz13 (Jul 14, 2014)

Can't wait to see some comparison beam tint pics....


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## Ares (Jul 16, 2014)

Admittedly after all this, I've gone ahead and preordered the SC62c now. Got my shipping notice today!


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 16, 2014)

Trying to submit RMA for my flickering SC62d, the submit button doesn't work. Any tips?


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## markr6 (Jul 16, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Trying to submit RMA for my flickering SC62d, the submit button doesn't work. Any tips?



I've had trouble with the "Add to cart" button sometimes. Figured it was something at work blocking it. I tried using Firefox and it worked fine. Still not sure what the issue was.


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## Lithium466 (Jul 16, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Trying to submit RMA for my flickering SC62d, the submit button doesn't work. Any tips?


It's a new way to reduce RMA costs 

More seriously, I had trouble in the past to submit rma for my H51c, had to send a message directly since I ended up waiting forever for a rma number to return my light. Now I order through dealers...


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## PoliceScannerMan (Jul 16, 2014)

Thank you guys, will try from home.

EDIT: Still didn't work from home...


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## d.weglarz13 (Jul 17, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Thank you guys, will try from home.
> 
> EDIT: Still didn't work from home...



I hate to say something that may have been suggested probably more than once already, but have you tried cleaning the contact points with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab? It couldn't hurt to clean the contacts, as I know that is usually a reason for flickering. Just throwing it out there.


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## Derek Dean (Jul 18, 2014)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Thank you guys, will try from home.
> 
> EDIT: Still didn't work from home...


ZL seems to be having a problem submitting RMA's from within an account, like if you use the "start new RMA" button, so........ just use the "Contact Us" button on the top menu bar. That works fine, and still inputs your account info...... then simply request an RMA.


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## Ares (Jul 18, 2014)

You might temporarily disable your adblocker, should you use one.


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## KDM (Jul 18, 2014)

Sorry haven't read all the way through. Any word on a SC32d? I really wish this would come to life. It would really make a great first titanium light for ZL.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jul 18, 2014)

KDM said:


> Sorry haven't read all the way through. Any word on a SC32d? I really wish this would come to life. It would really make a great first titanium light for ZL.


 My recollection was that Zebralight removed reference to the SC32 from their spreadsheet of upcoming products. It looks like they canceled the SC32.


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## KDM (Jul 18, 2014)

Fireclaw18 said:


> My recollection was that Zebralight removed reference to the SC32 from their spreadsheet of upcoming products. It looks like they canceled the SC32.



Bummer...


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## turkeylord (Jul 25, 2014)

jruser said:


> I sent an email to Zebralight sales today. They replied that SC62, SC62w, and SC62c will be on sale in one to two weeks.


:twothumbs


*Model*
*MSRP*
*Battery*
*LED*
*Typical CRI*
*Norminal CCT*
*Beam Type*
*Modes*
*ANSI OTF Max Output*
*ANSI OTF Low Output*
*Bezel Diameter*
*Length*
*Weight*
*Initial Release*
(USD)
AA
CR123
18650
(Kelvin)
(Lumens)
(hrs)
(Lumens)
(hrs)
(Inch)
(Inch)
(oz)
SC62w
85
1
Cree XM-L2
75
4400
spill + spot
15
930
PID
0.01
5.5 mo
0.96
3.8
1.4
7/2014
SC62
85
1
Cree XM-L2
65
6300
spill + spot
15
1000
PID
0.01
5.5 mo
0.96
3.8
1.4
7/24/2014
SC62c
85
1
Philips LUXEON T
85
4000
spill + spot
14
320
3
0.01
5 mo
0.96
3.8
1.4
7/11/2014
SC62d
85
1
Philips LUXEON T
85
5000
spill + spot
14
320
3
0.01
5 mo
0.96
3.8
1.4
1/9/2014


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jul 25, 2014)

Nice! Any idea how long it stays at 930 lumens, on a typical summer night? Does the PID keep it on max for 5 minutes?


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## KITROBASKIN (Jul 25, 2014)

There are certainly those who will find the XML2 in a SC62 more to their liking, but for me, the 5000K high CRI does it really well. When I need to see something farther away. That little reflector with such a large XML2 LED can't hold a candle to a dedicated, 150 gram thrower. In close range, urban environments, the XML2 probably gets it done with one light and that's great. Good on ZebraLight for making it, and with PID. It IS exciting and you all need to take the time to report your experiences when you get yours, please.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jul 25, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> There are certainly those who will find the XML2 in a SC62 more to their liking, but for me, the 5000K high CRI does it really well. When I need to see something farther away. That little reflector with such a large XML2 LED can't hold a candle to a dedicated, 150 gram thrower. In close range, urban environments, the XML2 probably gets it done with one light and that's great. Good on ZebraLight for making it, and with PID. It IS exciting and you all need to take the time to report your experiences when you get yours, please.



I'll be surprised if the Phillips LED at 320 lumens can out-throw the Cree at 930 or 1000 lumens. It's tough to overcome a 3x difference in brightness, even if the emitter is a lot smaller and throwier.


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## jruser (Jul 25, 2014)

Yeah we are talking a 10 degree hotspot angle for the Phillips vs a 12 degree angle for the xm-l. Seems like the xm-l may win in lux, though I'm sure somebody has a formula for a better guess.

Regarding the PID question, check selfbuilts sc600 l2 review to see how it behaves. He showed wildly different results between no air flow and direct air flow. Sitting on a table with no air flow would be worst, but holding it with your hand wrapped around the head would yield better results.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jul 25, 2014)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> I'll be surprised if the Phillips LED at 320 lumens can out-throw the Cree at 930 or 1000 lumens. It's tough to overcome a 3x difference in brightness, even if the emitter is a lot smaller and throwier.



Agree. 
But like others have said on the forum, the XML2 in the small reflector is not going to give you a LOT more throw; more light yes (even though it is not going to Look like a lot more light, just a significant step up from the Luxeon 320 lumens) Wouldn't you agree?


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Jul 25, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Agree.
> But like others have said on the forum, the XML2 in the small reflector is not going to give you a LOT more throw; more light yes (even though it is not going to Look like a lot more light, just a significant step up from the Luxeon 320 lumens) Wouldn't you agree?



Yes. But for an EDC, I like a floody light.


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## d.weglarz13 (Jul 25, 2014)

Can I ask another few basic questions here....you guys have been patient with me lately so I'm gonna push it a bit

I still haven't tried any Nichias as Im still new, but everyone raves about them. So, wouldn't that mean that if the Nichia led is very close to sunlight, and iirc 4500K, isn't the SC62w at 4400K theoretically the closest to daylight?
I am still trying to understand the basics it seems so my appreciation for your patience in advance. Now, I think from what I gather everyone has different opinions on tint, but the masses seem to want the closest thing to pure daylight. Am i correct in assuming this?
And, if so, then why would some of you prefer the Phillips over the XML2 for the pure fact that the extra option for the huge increase in lumens if or when you ever need it. I do understand that a lot of guys don't ever use the bright led lights and seem to prefer the lights in the 200 lumen range. I still am unsure why, perhaps sensitive eyes? I love my moonlight modes on my SC52w, and use them every single night. But sometimes if I wander outside because of a noise and don't have time to grab a thrower, the turbo mode really blasts my whole front yard up if I needed. So, I wouldn't mind any opinions on this too if you don't mind. 

Back to the chart above now of the 4 versions. Obviously, the Phillips say CRI of 85 versus CRI 75 for the 62w or even worse I think, CRI of 65 for the 62. Now, what does that mean in terms of what most would consider optimal and why? Back to the Nichia 219 which everyone seems to consider the best of the best right now in terms of most natural daylight tint(right?), I think I read that it is more of a 92ish CRI. So, obviously better but again I just can't seem to understand why? Is it because the surrounding spill is also a pure tint? Or something about the light in the spectrum? I don't mean to sound silly, but I really am having a hard time grasping it all, as a newbie trying to learn as much as I can and already obsessed with led lights in general.
I just love my little SC52w, carry it everyday and night. And, as others have stated to me, the jump to the 18650 SC62 lights will be great! But, at the same time I hate to ask why one would go from a tiny 500lm light to a larger 320lm light, and I do really want to know why. I do understand runtimes, but again we are talking Li-ions, so whats the problem with charging for free....:thinking:

Again guys, I am trying to just learn and understand the different angles and why some of you prefer some things over others. And, I can't help but feel like so far buying some really cool bright lights lately, seemingly like a new one every couple weeks now, that I am missing out on something way better than bright lights with all the guys who love HDS lights, Nichias, the RA lights, and other smaller lesser bright lights, with I'm sure have other benefits of course in terms of tint or whatever.
But I am not trying to be funny at all. I just don't really know how else to ask. And, I really want to know what is the reason some prefer the HDS/Mcgizmo/nichia,etc...over a light like a bright neutral with very low modes and an XML2. 
And, since I am dying to get the bigger brother of my sc52w, and see what all the hype is about with the 62's, I am really hoping someone feels like replying to this ridiculous post. So far, you can probably guess I am trying to decide between the 62d or the brighter 62w. But really too, its been bothering me really bad not knowing the basics.
Feel free to PM me if this is taking things too off track, but I do SINCERELY appreciate your patience. 

I will stop now. Thank you again. I really am excited to learn, and just feel like I am getting obsessed with lights for a good while now, and just need to get this all down in my mind so I understand it. Sorry that most of you more advanced guys find this post probably hard to read. I do look forward to learning though, if that helps any.

dave


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## turkeylord (Jul 25, 2014)

Good points all. What I would hope is that maybe the SC600 (mk III?) gets made into a more throwy light. That size head & reflector just aren't necessary for a floody light.

Need to start saving my pennies, that's for sure!


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## turkeylord (Jul 25, 2014)

d.weglarz13 said:


> Can I ask another few basic questions here....you guys have been patient with me lately so I'm gonna push it a bit
> 
> I still haven't tried any Nichias as Im still new, but everyone raves about them. So, wouldn't that mean that if the Nichia led is very close to sunlight, and iirc 4500K, isn't the SC62w at 4400K theoretically the closest to daylight?
> I am still trying to understand the basics it seems so my appreciation for your patience in advance. Now, I think from what I gather everyone has different opinions on tint, but the masses seem to want the closest thing to pure daylight. Am i correct in assuming this?


You may be getting color temp (CCT) and color rendering (CRI) jumbled a bit.

"Close to daylight" could refer to either - Daylight being 100 CRI and ~5600k (varies). The Nichia LED has a great CRI spec at 92, but a slightly warm color temp compared to the noon sun (and it's my personal favorite). The Luxeon T is closer in CCT, but a little worse in CRI. "Cool" XM-L and XP-G lamps for example, trade CRI and CCT for efficacy - the reason they are always rated higher in lumens.


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## TweakMDS (Jul 25, 2014)

turkeylord said:


> Good points all. What I would hope is that maybe the SC600 (mk III?) gets made into a more throwy light. That size head & reflector just aren't necessary for a floody light.
> 
> Need to start saving my pennies, that's for sure!



I like the SC600's beam a lot, pretty much perfect as a walking light. I'm a little worries about the SC62w being a bit too floody for the amount of lumens it pumps out. Probably still getting it, but I hope they'll also make one with an XP-L (or maybe an SC63 by then).


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## d.weglarz13 (Jul 25, 2014)

I see. I understand the cool CCT vs CRI trade off. But in terms of lets say the SC62 versions. If one was shooting for "close to daylight", what is more important? CCT or CRI? And in these different 4 versions, that may answer that question. If CRI is "really" what makes tint close to daylight, then the c and d versions seem best. But if the 4500K of the Nichia LED is what really counts, then it would seem to be the w at 4400K? This is my confusion. Thanks for the reply.
dave


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## TweakMDS (Jul 25, 2014)

Color temperature is much more important to how the color of the light looks. Keep in mind that 5500K (daylight according to most cameras) does look pretty cold if you use it in the dark. Indoor lighting is usually much, much warmer so we're used to seeing 3000-4000K as normal artificial light.
However, if you'd have a perfect daylight balanced color temperature of 5500K with a very poor color rendering index, things you shine the light on are still going to look odd.

Think of it like this: emitters with a low CRI have certain color bands 'missing' from their spectrum. In extremes, you could be looking for your purple necktie in a bunch of blue and purple ones, and only see blue ties.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jul 25, 2014)

If you like the SC52w, then it is worth your while to get the SC62w. Having the option of more light is always nice. Now if your torch starts overheating to make that bright light, then you need to decide how often you intend to use that brighter light; For short periods? Good. Since the SC62w uses PID, the intensity will lessen as it heats up, but not so evident to the eye.

Not all of us are totally enamored with the Nichia 219. I can't speak about the 219B, but the 219A makes the soil here where we live, darker, and prettier (actually distracting to me). Inside, it is a little warm but really fine. The XML2 T6 3C tint is really quite good even though the CRI is not as high (just a little on the warm side from true neutral). The Luxeon T is ideal for me inside the house. While some may consider it cool, if you directly compare it with a truly cool LED, the SC62d looks downright warm. If you have a white ceiling that gets reflected sunlight during the day, you can shine the Luxeon up there and the tint is very close. Put light from a Nichia 219A up there and it has a pleasant cream look with just a little bit of nice brown. And like you said, from the hotspot to the edge of the spill, it is uniform. That is nice. Some people really like that incandescent look (but really it is not that warm)

When we go on night hikes, I use throwers (P60 dropin Oveready hosts) with dedomed XML2's that have been selected for a neutral tint (Vinh crafted). They are a little more bland than the XML2 T6 3C but really good enough; not distracting, even if I'm navigating with a SC62d at the same time (really nice, but if it is on a low setting, you don't benefit very much at all). Our eyes are not as attuned to colors when it is mostly dark. 

Now I am starting to use Vinh's SkyLumen SL1. His dedomed XML2 (selected for a neutral tint) in that torch has almost too much green tint. But because it throws like a... it'll do. The heat management with the SL1 is phenomenal.

What about the efficient cool LED's? I am spoiled now and find the bluish, low CRI cast to be too distracting.

To each his (or her) own. I used to prefer slightly cool (moon-like) tints. Find what YOU like and enjoy it. Isn't that fun, in of itself?

The 18650 has more energy per size and weight (I believe) than the RCR123 and other rechargeables of that size. Those CR123 batteries are expensive and unnecessary for my application. And while the HDS Rotary sounds like a very practical, useful user interface, the added weight to make it so rugged and the limitation on battery choice make it a no-go for me. I have complete respect for Henry and his informative HDSsystems website, however. And the MBI HF with a Nichia 219 is my daily carry.

one opinion


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## d.weglarz13 (Jul 25, 2014)

OK, great. Actually, I can indeed understand it when put this way. The higher CRI has less color bands missing in the spectrum. That makes a lot of sense. I too, seem to be way too distracted by the cooler tints, but that be me. Its really interesting to see that different peoples' eyes see the tints of light in different ways. And, Im guessing even if two people were to both have 20/20 vision, the outcomes would still be at least slightly different. Interesting.
And, the blue ties thing.....Perfect, easy to grasp so really thank you.

So now, the Nichia 219...Its weird that the Nichia's I only see usually in lights that only give somewhere around 100-200lm. Obviously this LED doesn't produce that many lumens, but since everyone loves them I'm sure they don't need to be all that bright to be appreciated. But, then, why is this such a good thing considering the eyes don't pick up colors so well when its darker, if the Nichia doesn't even get that bright? 

Now I see, that the 62d is preferred as far as CRI goes. Makes sense. But, the less CRI 62w can produce a lot more light. So, now I understand the compromise. I sure appreciate taking the time to explain this in simple terms.

Kitrobaskin.....when you say "navigating with the SC62d," do you mean looking at maps? Because you say "at the same time" as using your P60 drop in. So, by that I gather the XML2 is used for lumens, and the Philips used for closer applications like reading. Is this correct? It makes sense so far, because I also prefer to read up close with a more neutral tint as opposed to a cool one, but what is the use for the high CRI in that sense? Perhaps the colors on the map? I hope I am on track so far.

And, are there any lights that use the Nichia High CRI LEDs that are brighter than that 100-200lm range? Or is this only accomplished with something like a triple?

I may just have to get the 62w and the 62d now!


thanks again VERY much for the help guys
dave


----------



## Derek Dean (Jul 25, 2014)

Dave, believe me, a few years ago when HI CRI lights first started becoming available, many of us here at CPF (me included) had a hard time grasping the difference between CRI and color temperature. 

I also know that that many members ordered nifty new Hi CRI lights, only to receive them and find they were WAY yellow/red, almost tungsten looking, obviously with color temperatures in the 3000 k range. 

So, when you have a choice in selecting an LED for a light (like the SC52/62 series), you have several things to think about in making your decision. For many of us, the beam profile is just as important as the beam tint. For instance, I found the Luxeon in the current SC62d just a little throwy for my taste. I really like a lot of flood, or at the very least, a big, broad hotspot. So, I'm hoping the new XM-L based SC62w (with it's larger XM-L LED) will have just that, more flood (small LED in big reflector gives throw, big LED in small reflector gives flood). 

Next comes tint. For some folks this makes absolutely no difference at all. They want the brightest, most efficient LED they can get, and generally, those tend to be the cooler tints. Also, some folks feel a slightly cool tint gives a cleaner, whiter appearance to things. Remember, daylight has ALL KINDS OF colors, yellow in the morning, cooler in the middle of the day, and then often going red or orange in the afternoon, so saying you want something that comes close to "daylight" can mean a LOT of different things.

Finding the tint that YOU like simply takes experience. Luckily, more and more manufacturers are listing the LEDs that they are using and their color temperature rating (like Zebralight), often offering a choice of LEDS and tints, but do remember, these listings are NOT exact. You will get a light that has a color temp somewhere in a general range. Some CPF members have gone so far as to order 2-3 lights of the same model, find the one that has the tint they like the best, and then sell the remaining lights over on CPFMP, often at a small loss.......... just so they can get the tint they like best!

For me, I use filters over ALL of my lights to change the tint to what I like. If you look around CPF you can find a thread over the LED section that details how many of us do this. It's kind of fun, and lets geeks like me get exactly the tint I want, no matter what the LED looks like when it arrives. 

Then you throw in CRI, and things begin to get really jumbled. Tungsten light bulbs have a CRI of 100, the best you can get, but of course they also have a color temp of 2800-3200, so with a very yellow/red tint. That's why we like the Nichia 219. It's got a very hi CRI of 92, but also a decent color temp in the 4500 range (5000 range for the new B version), so it has a slightly warm to neutral tint AND shows color more accurately. 

As with most things, the Nichia has it's trade offs. It's not rated to go as bright as the XM-L LEDs, so many of us have started collecting lights with a *triple* NIchia 219 configuration.

So, how does all this apply to figuring out which SC62 version to buy? For me it goes like this:

1. I won't want the SC62 cool white XM-L. Yuck, I just don't like the cool white XM-Ls that ZL has been getting.
2. The SC62d looks very intriguing. Hi CRI, and with a neutral to only slightly cool LED. I don't use the high levels much, but as has been pointed out, it's nice to have super bright occassionaly when you need it, even if only for a few seconds....... so the new XM-L versions are also interesting. 
3. Then new SC62c with it's 4000 K color temp is also very intriguing, being slightly warmer than the d version. Very promising. 
4. Ah, but the new SC62w version, now that looks like the light for me. Color temp in the 4400 range, CRI in the 75 range, and up to 930 lumens OTF when needed, all with a beam that is probably very similar to my SC52w (which I love).

What I'm really waiting for is for some CPF member to get ALL FOUR versions, and then show us a side-by-side beam shot so we can visually compare the tints and beam profiles. 

Fun stuff!!! I hope I didn't confuse you even more, Dave (I have tendency towards over explaining). 

Don't sweat it. Just make sure to buy your lights from a dealer with a good return policy, that way if you really can't stand a particular light, you can return it and try again.


----------



## KITROBASKIN (Jul 26, 2014)

d.weglarz13 said:


> Kitrobaskin.....when you say "navigating with the SC62d," do you mean looking at maps? Because you say "at the same time" as using your P60 drop in.



Thanks for your polite inquiry: There are no maps involved. I am navigating the trail; taking care not to trip over that rock or get speared by a cactus. Having the rather floody ZL on a headstrap on a low setting allows us to negotiate the trail. At the same time, I am using a thrower to look for animals and to just look at things that are farther away. This way I am not repeatedly changing light levels with one flashlight. Using a bright thrower to look right in front of you will zap your eyes, constricting your pupils, so that your ability to see in the dark will be even more impaired.. But this is basically intuitive and so off topic.

If I just want to enjoy the forest about me, and see it at night with colors similar to 'daytime', I crank up the ZL. But I am willing to lose some color rendering in order to see that owl with the huge eyes off in the distance.


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## TweakMDS (Jul 26, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Thanks for your polite inquiry: There are no maps involved. I am navigating the trail; taking care not to trip over that rock or get speared by a cactus. Having the rather floody ZL on a headstrap on a low setting allows us to negotiate the trail. At the same time, I am using a thrower to look for animals and to just look at things that are farther away. This way I am not repeatedly changing light levels with one flashlight. Using a bright thrower to look right in front of you will zap your eyes, constricting your pupils, so that your ability to see in the dark will be even more impaired.. But this is basically intuitive and so off topic.
> 
> If I just want to enjoy the forest about me, and see it at night with colors similar to 'daytime', I crank up the ZL. But I am willing to lose some color rendering in order to see that owl with the huge eyes off in the distance.



This is exactly how I work when I'm navigating in the dark. Usually in the dunes or at the beach which is not lit. A floody light on a low mode (think around 20-50 lumens if I'm just lighting what's directly in front of me for myself) or a reflectorless led (Spark SG3) as a primary walking light. Then a throwier light in case you see something in the distance that you're curious about. I still use an eagletac P20A2 for that but planning to get a predator. I think the Armytek Predator Pro + Zebralight SC62w would make a great duo. They share battery types, so if I'd have 3 batteries in total, I'm pretty sure those would last me an entire trip.


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## kbuzbee (Jul 26, 2014)

Derek Dean said:


> 4. Ah, but the new SC62w version, now that looks like the light for me. Color temp in the 4400 range, CRI in the 75 range, and up to 930 lumens OTF when needed, all with a beam that is probably very similar to my SC52w (which I love).



Is this released yet? If not, is there an ETA? I saw the chart above says 7/2014

My C is currently out for delivery. First ZL. Looking forward to giving this a go.

Ken


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## Derek Dean (Jul 26, 2014)

Hey Ken, as far as I know the SC62w hasn't been released yet, but rumors have it coming out in the next week or two. After all, it's basically the same light with just an LED change. 

I hope you'll post your impressions, and maybe some beamshots, of your new C version when it arrives.


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## kbuzbee (Jul 26, 2014)

Cool. Thanks!

Impressions? Definitely. I'm horrible at beam shots  but I'll try.


Ken


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## d.weglarz13 (Jul 26, 2014)

Derek Dean said:


> Fun stuff!!! I hope I didn't confuse you even more, Dave (I have tendency towards over explaining).
> 
> Don't sweat it. Just make sure to buy your lights from a dealer with a good return policy, that way if you really can't stand a particular light, you can return it and try again.




Wow, guys. I really can't tell you enough how much the last few posts here really helped me. I am just full of joy literally right now reading through these posts a second time. I got tired and passed out last night and just got home from work so sorry for the delayed reply, but really you guys, thank you so much. I know most of you are pretty techy here, and I am really trying to learn so I am not just reading anymore, and actually understanding and even helping other guys out here and there. I really love this forum, and love that this place is just filled with people that love helping others.
I know it is a bit hard to explain everything at such a simple level, especially after even I have read previous threads on the subjects for newbies, but still since I didn't quite get it all the explanations and everything really made the difference. 

I think I may just be beginning to understand things more now in terms of at least the basics of what we spoke about. I don't mean to be so repetitive, but really I can't explain how grateful I am for all the help.


This solves it.....I am going for the 62d And the 62w!!! Definitely. I just hope that 62w drops soon!

dave


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## KITROBASKIN (Jul 26, 2014)

d.weglarz13 said:


> This solves it.....I am going for the 62d And the 62w!!! Definitely. I just hope that 62w drops soon!
> 
> dave



EXCITING!
Derek is a really nice guy. And while he thinks the SC62d is a little too throwy and I think it is pretty floody, we get along really well and respect each other's opinions. He has helped me.

I have two SC62d flashlights; use them both. Please, please report back when you have them and offer your insight. You will likely enlighten us with your perspective.


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## d.weglarz13 (Jul 27, 2014)

Haha, great. Yes, I sure will. I am very excited. Thank you again.
Dave


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## Derek Dean (Jul 27, 2014)

Ha, well of course when I said the SC62d was "throwy", I guess I should have put that in perspective, because we all know that ZL is NOT known for their throwmasters. 

You have to understand that for me, the SC600 is not floody enough, so I use diffusion material to help even the light out, so the SC62d's narrower hot spot, while not objectionable by any means (or a surprise), was a bit more throwy than what I wanted.

And Dave, I'm glad my overly long explanation was helpful. Keep asking questions!


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## kbuzbee (Jul 27, 2014)

SC62C arrived yesterday and I have to say, so far, I'm liking it a lot. Quite small for a 18650 light. It's a bit larger than my 16340 & 18350 based lights but way smaller than something like a PD35.









Comparison of RRT01vn, D25Cvn, SC62C and PD35vn

As mentioned, the Luxeon T LED is quite small.








Luxeon T versus XM-L2


While convention says this will tend it more toward throw than flood, I found the beam profile to be very similar to my RRT01vn which I've always considered to be floody. It may well be a more focused beam the the SC62W where all elements are the same except the LED. In fact I would expect that. But the beam profile of the SC62C is very nice and the spill is very usable and clean. I tried to get beam shots but I just don't have the knack of it. Sorry.


Although Zebralight calls 4000K neutral, to my eyes it tends to the warm side. It is not as warm as my Peak Logan high CRI XP-G but it's definitely warmer than my Nichia 219s or XM-L2 & XP-L 5000K lights, all of which I expected. I would guess the SC62D will probably be in the same range as the latter two. Overall, I find the tint to be very nice. Not distractingly warm like the Peak and color rendition is excellent.


Ken


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## markr6 (Jul 27, 2014)

Yes my SC62d is the coolest of all my lights, other than EA4 cool white. It's a great tint, close to the cooler Nichia 219B (not A). I brought mine to the hospital since our first baby just arrived! I've been using it a lot since all the lights in the room are way too bright for nighttime.

Unfortunately I don't know how to post pics from my phone.


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## Ares (Jul 27, 2014)

Oh man, I got my SC62c in. I though the SC62d's tint was perfect... this beats it, for sure. It's almost the exact same tint as my original SC600w (which I loved) but with better color rendition. New favorite light. 

The clicky has changed, though. The SC62d was a very hard button, for a ZebraLight. I liked it. This one has a little play before you actually touch the switch underneath. Makes the clicky a little more quieter, though. I'm okay with it. It's not nearly as soft as the SC600w MkII L2. I find that one a little annoying.


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## tonkem (Jul 27, 2014)

My SC52 L2 CW had what felt like air between the boot and the switch itself. I sent it back to Zebralight as a defect, since all my other Zebralights, SC52, H600, S6330, and H502, all have no air between the boot and the switch. Awaiting it's return from Zebralight, but they gave an RMA to have it returned for the "air" in the boot, as a defect. 



Ares said:


> Oh man, I got my SC62c in. I though the SC62d's tint was perfect... this beats it, for sure. It's almost the exact same tint as my original SC600w (which I loved) but with better color rendition. New favorite light.
> 
> The clicky has changed, though. The SC62d was a very hard button, for a ZebraLight. I liked it. This one has a little play before you actually touch the switch underneath. Makes the clicky a little more quieter, though. I'm okay with it. It's not nearly as soft as the SC600w MkII L2. I find that one a little annoying.


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## KDM (Jul 29, 2014)

I have the SC62c in route, I have high expectations for this light.


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## kbuzbee (Jul 29, 2014)

KDM said:


> I have the SC62c in route, I have high expectations for this light.



As well you should. I felt like I was taking a bit of a gamble on it, but it may well be my favorite EDC light.

Ken


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## KDM (Jul 29, 2014)

I have the H502c and love the tint on it. It does however have a green tint on the outer edge of the beam which I believe is the effect of the glow in the dark reflector. The center is very nice love the 4000k emitters. The SC62d has a very clean beam so hoping for the same in a warmer tint.


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## kbuzbee (Jul 29, 2014)

KDM said:


> The SC62d has a very clean beam so hoping for the same in a warmer tint.



Thats exactly how I'd describe my SC62C.

Ken


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## KDM (Jul 31, 2014)

I received my SC62c today, used it at a couple of jobs and this evening after getting home. Guys, if you like a neutral tint without rings and multiple various colors and don't really want to play the tint lottery this is the light for you. Phillips has done a excellent job with their LED's in the 62 d & c lights. Most of you probably have at least 10+ lights with a XML in them that can blast 1000+ lumens. If you have the means check out these lights for yourself. Excellent beam, color rendering, run time, and UI. Excellent job ZL!


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## turtlepwr281 (Jul 31, 2014)

The SC62C looks great! I'd like to get one to replace my SC52.

How does everyone feel about the fairly low-output medium modes?

Have there been beam-shots posted yet?


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## turtlepwr281 (Jul 31, 2014)

Alrighty, I just snagged an SC62C. If no one else does, I'll post some beamshots when I get it!


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## Derek Dean (Jul 31, 2014)

Hey KDM, thanks for your impressions of the new SC62c. Man, I'm torn now which one to get. I do love HiCRI lights. I sure would like to see a side-by-side beam shot comparison of the SC62, SC62c, SC62d, and when it's released, the SC62w. I will say though, it's nice to choices, thanks ZL!


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## KDM (Jul 31, 2014)

From left: SC62c, SC62d, HDS 219B
Not exactly what you see in real life but it's close to give a comparison.


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## Derek Dean (Jul 31, 2014)

KDM, thanks for the comparison beamshot! From that, it looks to me like the d is just slightly cooler than the 219 and the c is just slightly warmer than the 219, but all 3 look very nice. I'd probably have an HDS if Henry offered one that could use an 18650.


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## Derek Dean (Jul 31, 2014)

Duplicate, oooops.


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## KDM (Jul 31, 2014)

They are all a little cooler looking in real life but the picture is close.


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## turtlepwr281 (Aug 1, 2014)

Thanks for posting that KDM, I'll have my S62C Monday!


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## Martin L (Aug 7, 2014)

KDM said:


> From left: SC62c, SC62d, HDS 219B
> Not exactly what you see in real life but it's close to give a comparison.



Sorry in advance if this post will end up being a copy of an earlier post of me. It seems that a moderator need to look at my writings before it will reach out, but my first attempt was two days ago... Maybe I am doing something wrong?

Can somebody please tell me which version of the SC62 is closest to the tint of the MT-G2 emitter? It should be the "D" version according to spec, but when I look at this picture and compare the different tints with the beautiful Nichia 219B (5000k) the SC62D looks cooler with a touch of blue in it... The C version maybe looks a little bit too brown, but it is interesting... I am also waiting for the tint of the W version, but if the W version is what I think it will be (XM-L like with an uneven tint from spill to hot spot that I am used to) I can easily spare a couple of hundred lumens to get a beautiful even tint all the way from the very end of the spill to the hot spot with the C or D version - hopefully more like the MT-G2 tint. I really not like when the hot spot is neutral white/a little bit yellow and the spill is cool white (bluish)... Booth of my XM-L neutral white based lights are like this (SM D40A NW and Fenix PD32UE). I have turned into a tint snob after getting that TN35 (MT-G2)... damn! Thanks in advance.


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 7, 2014)

Martin L:
Sounds like you want some kind of Nichia LED if the desire to have an even tint across the hotspot and spill is of primary importance. I like the SC62d more than my older, Nichia 219, but the 219b sounds interesting. The slight difference in tint in the Luxeon T is not a problem for me. Some are saying the Cree XPL has a neutral version that is quite nice. You have to decide what your priorities are... and Welcome.


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## bansuri (Aug 9, 2014)

Got my SC62d the other day, very impressive light! Love the tint, the driver features, and the size. 
This model has an hour longer runtime than the XM-L model on H1, I assume because of a lower drive current, possibly a limitation of the emitter. 320 lumens for 3 hours is fine for my uses. 1000 lumens @ 2 hrs is quite impressive if you need the output of XM-L2 model.
There were some quality control issues with my light that I can overlook but might be bothersome to others. Posting photos not to bash, but to inform. 
I'll be keeping this light despite the issues as they shouldn't affect the performance. 
I carried an SC52 for a little over a year and am amazed that this light only seems slightly larger but carries an 18650. This would be a thing of science fiction 10 years ago.

Anodizing issue






Another pic of ano





The counter-bore for the switch is not centered so the right side is not as deep, this gives the impression that the rubber boot retaining ring is not inserted properly. It is, but there is no material on the radius to cover the top edge of the ring. After a few months of bouncing around in my pocket these issues will be obscured by use, not an issue for me. 






I just checked the waterproof rating on the SC52 and SC62, was surprised to see that they weren't as waterproof as I thought. I routinely threw my SC52 in the bottom of 12' pools for my kids to retrieve, never an issue. Won't push it with this one.


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## kj2 (Aug 9, 2014)

bansuri said:


> I just checked the waterproof rating on the SC52 and SC62, was surprised to see that they weren't as waterproof as I thought. I routinely threw my SC52 in the bottom of 12' pools for my kids to retrieve, never an issue. Won't push it with this one.


AFAIK all ZL's are IPX7 rated. Although they do note 2 meters for 30 minutes. So it should handle submersion.


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## Martin L (Aug 11, 2014)

Thank you KITROBASKIN . The uneven “XM-L” tint from spill to hot spot is OK on the outside, but is quite noticeable on the inside shining on light colored walls and roofs. I can live with it, but it is quite annoying from time to time. I am wondering if the coating of the glass can affect the tint like this, but I am not sure. The TN35 has coating, but it still has that beautiful even tint…Yes a Nichia 219B will probably take me to the tint heaven – only not sure in which configuration and brand yet  

Back to topic. I have looked at some videos on the ZL H600w (head lamp) to get the idea what the SC62w will look like as they share the same reflector, glass coating, and hopefully the exact same emitter. The hot spot is kind of big which means that the SC62w is unable to throw any longer distances despite the amount of lumens available. This is not a bad thing, but good to know… This can be one of the reasons (for me) to buy the C or D versions as the smaller Luxeon emitter most probably give you a more “weighted” hot spot to spill ratio. The better tint/lower output comes for free . Just my own thoughts… Do anybody have any beam shots comparing the Luxeon in a SC62 against the XM-L in a SC52/62 or H600 body?

BANSURI: It should not be a lottery, having bad luck with both the anodizing and the button. If I get a light like that I would not be happy and most likely have it replaced. It makes you wonder if ZL has any quality control at all… Please inform ZL about this so they have a chance to shape up!


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## KITROBASKIN (Sep 21, 2014)

Took my son on his first 'wild cave' tour yesterday. The tint on the SC62 is so superior for the colors in a cave; better than the MBI HF Nichia 219A I had with me, in my opinion, and far better than any XML series. We had plenty of lumens and throw for the small caves we went to.


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## Erik1213 (Nov 3, 2014)

I just had an epic failure while working under the dashboard of a customers car with my Zebralight SC62d.

This light has never been dropped. But it still left me in the dark.






I sent a warranty inquiry to Zebralight. I hope this is covered. I hope they can fix my intermittent no light when long pressing for low. It doesn't happen often but when it does, it's a little annoying. I just never sent it in for repair of that issue because it is my favorite light because it has the absolute best tint I have ever seen.


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## markr6 (Nov 3, 2014)

Woah! Never seen that before. They should do you right and swap it for a new one, then investigate what's going on with this one.


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## kj2 (Nov 3, 2014)

Wait.. Whuut! First time I see that. That really needs a proper investigation.


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## Fireclaw18 (Nov 3, 2014)

Wow! LED came right off the board. That shouldn't be possible.

Sounds like the LED was probably improperly soldered at the factory. Does make one wonder though... are other Zebralights in that run going to suffer from this defect?

Also the SC62 doesn't use a conventional star. Instead to save space it has an integrated driver board with the LED and all the driver electronics on the same board. Does this mean all the other components on that board were also soldered improperly?


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## Bad_JuJu (Nov 4, 2014)

Oh no! I hope they get that taken care of for you. Sounds like that could have been part of the other problems you were having. Keep us updated please.


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## Erik1213 (Dec 10, 2014)

I finally received the light back today. 

I didn't realize how much I missed this thing. It's not the brightest light I have or the highest CRI light I have but the color is my ideal "neutral white" (some would say cool white) and the battery meter is great for keeping my confidence up.

The first thing I noticed, the color was so much cooler than that the previous LED had become. I guess if you cook a Luxeon Rebel, it gets warmer.

Here's what I'm talking about.

Just before failure, left is the SC62d and the right is a FourSevens Preon with a Nichia 219:





Here's the exact same setup, same camera, same mode:





I was actually going to make a post here about how I don't remember my SC62d being that warm! 

Another great thing is they fixed the intermittent no light when turning on in low mode.

While I was out of a light for a few weeks, this is the first time this has happened to me with a Zebralight and I will still continue to buy them because I am never happy with any other lights.


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## Charles L. (Dec 10, 2014)

Great report, glad to hear things worked out. I think the tint of the Luxeon is my personal favorite, even more than the Nichia 219. And the SC62d is easily my favorite EDC.


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## StorminMatt (Dec 10, 2014)

Charles L. said:


> Great report, glad to hear things worked out. I think the tint of the Luxeon is my personal favorite, even more than the Nichia 219. And the SC62d is easily my favorite EDC.



I too have to say that I orefer the tint of the Luxeon T to that of the Nichia 219. It seems to be about as close as you can get to an absolutely pure white, without any hint of any kind of cast. It's quite unlike any other LED that I've seen. Also, it seems like the Luxeon T is capable of higher output than the Nichia 219.

Anyway, if you like the SC62d, you might also consider the SC52d for those situations where you don't need the brightness or runtime, and a smaller light might be more desirable. You get the same great tint, but also have more battery versatility (not being tied to only Li-Ion). It's not as bright as the SC52/SC52w. But in the grander scheme of 1xAA lights, it's still brighter than all but a few.


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## Bad_JuJu (Dec 10, 2014)

Glad to hear they took care of you. I'm looking to pick up a sc-62w soon.


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## twistedraven (Dec 31, 2014)

Hello! I just received my 62D in the mail earlier today, and have been comparing it against my Mini Maglite Pro 2AA led and Nitecore SRT-6. Having fun with the Maglite led me to the SRT6 purchase, and the shortcomings of the tint and pocketability of the SRT-6 led me to getting this Zebralight.

Anyways, going through this thread led me to have a preconceived notion that the SC62D would be slightly cold in color, and have a narrow beam (both spot and flood) in general, but I'm not finding it to be like that! 5000k seems perfectly white by my standards, and while I could probably be ok with 4500k, anything less would be too warm to me. Also, the anodization seems to be flawless, and my LED is only slightly off-center (not enough to matter). The tiny size of this 18650 light is incredible too. I disagree with anybody who thinks the 18650 was overkill for this light. All that runtime mixed with the gorgeous tint and CRI on something this small is great.

Boy that greenish tint of the XML in the Nitecore is just disgusting, it even looks sorta gross next to the very cool (but seemingly slightly higher CRI?) Maglite. I didn't use the infinite brightness of the SRT6 as much as I thought I would either, and the H1, M1 and L2 of the 62D are perfectly spaced for my needs. There might be times where I'll miss that long distance throw though.

Looking good so far! Can't wait to take it out on a dark-walk. Will try to post some of my own CRI-oriented pictures of the three I mentioned above as well. Does anybody know if any of the Zebralight headbands will hold this light like a headlamp (rotating the band so the light is on the side of the head obviously). And are there any diffuser options?


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## KITROBASKIN (Dec 31, 2014)

twistedraven said:


> Hello! I just received my 62D in the mail earlier today, and have been comparing it against my Mini Maglite Pro 2AA led and Nitecore SRT-6. Having fun with the Maglite led me to the SRT6 purchase, and the shortcomings of the tint and pocketability of the SRT-6 led me to getting this Zebralight.
> 
> Anyways, going through this thread led me to have a preconceived notion that the SC62D would be slightly cold in color, and have a narrow beam (both spot and flood) in general, but I'm not finding it to be like that! 5000k seems perfectly white by my standards, and while I could probably be ok with 4500k, anything less would be too warm to me. Also, the anodization seems to be flawless, and my LED is only slightly off-center (not enough to matter). The tiny size of this 18650 light is incredible too. I disagree with anybody who thinks the 18650 was overkill for this light. All that runtime mixed with the gorgeous tint and CRI on something this small is great.
> 
> ...



Great observations and welcome to the forum.
I had the same thoughts about members discussing tint here, but not only is it a matter of individual perception, it depends on what you are comparing it to. An A-B comparison with a Nichia LED might very well make the Luxeon T look Quite cool, but compared to a Cree XML2 T6 it looks warm... The Luxeon T can be representative of sunlight with a uniform thin cloud cover while some of the Nichia emitters look like dawn with just a few light red clouds.

People's idea of how much spot or flood they like is also pretty funny. Some think the 62d is too floody, some too concentrated. Unless it is a bump-in-the-night scenario, this ZL handles all the around-the-house tasks just fine with it's large hotspot and sufficient spill.

Using this light every night, I also find the mode spacings very functional, and easily performed with one hand promptly. I use mine with a slightly modified Nite-Ize headstrap with the torch over my right ear. I do not like having weight on my forehead or weight and bulk on the back of my head. It is not uncommon for me to forget I am wearing it. The headstrap also makes for more secure holding in the hand AND helps to index the ZL's side switch for faster aquisition. I did try the ZL H600 headlamp strap system and it can work just fine. The light can bounce around a little bit if you are exerting yourself. Moving the silicone 'bracket' to the top strap is also an option but then you run into even more bounce-around. 

BangGood has silicone diffuser caps that fit snug over the head of the light. 

I still love my pair of SC62d's (and prefer the one with the slightly offset LED because the hotspot/corona is uniform in intensity while the perfectly centered one is slightly dimmer in the hotspot than the corona) and find it unlikely that the benefit of (quick to heat up) much more lumens with the XML2 are worth the distracting tint they emit. (Unless you are lucky with the sample you received). Besides, I carry an effective thrower when it might be needed.


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## twistedraven (Jan 2, 2015)

Yes, both the color temperature and beam pattern seem to be very subjective. I can definitely see those 4500k Nichias being the sweet spot for many people if they want their surroundings slightly romanticized, or if they want something closer to the 5pm 'golden hour' that's the common practice for photography and film. I think the 'biggest' deficiency of this Luxeon LED I see (which honestly isn't big at all) is that it still has a slight color shift towards blue at the very edge of the flood (considerably less than the poop from green to purple of the XML.) I found that diffusers almost fully mitigate that problem anyways.


Is the diffuser you recommended from BangGood this one? I've played around with filter vs cone diffuser with my SRT6, and I slightly prefer the filtered ones. I'm also not sure, but is there a difference between orange peel'd transparent diffusers, and clouded diffusers? When I attached Nitecore's own diffuser filter on my SRT6, I got complete flood and very little throw, almost as if there was too much compromise, and the overall amount of light being put out was lessened compared to with no diffuser. I'm wondering if orange peel'd diffusers like you'd see on car headlights or armytek headlamps have less compromise? (In other words, if no diffuser was 80% throw and 20% flood, diffuser was 20% throw and 80% flood, I'd be looking for something that's more around 40% throw and 60% flood.) I'm not too keen on the ins and outs of how different diffusers work.

That's very interesting that a slightly off-set led would cause a more uniform gradation of brightness on a hotspot. Learn something new every day.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 2, 2015)

I am wondering if what you are seeing at the edge of the beam is from the anti-reflective coating of the lens, but Yeah, if one takes the Luxeon T close to a white wall, it is easy to find minor faults. If you are in the field or about the house, it is quite good. I would say it is more honest than most Nichia except for the triple Nichia 219B 5000K dropin I got from Nailbender. That thing is really nice, even in the snow.

That is the Banggood diffuser I referred to, and there are others with more experience who can give you answers to your questions. Because the ZL has the 'switch swell' near the business end, the silicone diffuser was brought up by a member some time back. I got two of them and one for a P60 host with a Z32 Cryos bezel. The light is indeed diffused fairly uniformly, so that the photons that lumens are a measurement of, are not concentrated, so will look more dim. I do not know what percentage of lumens are lost with diffusers. And the tip of the these diffusers has a yellowish cast on these inexpensive units.

I should have been more careful with my words when discussing my pair of ZL SC62d's: I do not know if every slightly off-centered LED will exhibit the same quality mine has, and the outer edge of the corona is not very circular (yet for all intents and purposes, it is not distracting to me). I also do not know if all perfectly centered LED's will have a slightly dimmer hotspot than the corona. The brightness of the low settings are also significantly different on my two samples.

CPF member, Derek Dean, has a good thread about using filters to adjust flashlight tints. The LEE Filter swatch books also have a number of diffuser films as well; pretty interesting stuff that may be of interest here. The filters are placed on the outside of the ZebraLight models with pressed-on bezels. Some of us use tiny snippets (2 or 3) of good quality double-stick tape, placed around the perimeter to keep the filter on.


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## Slumber (Jan 3, 2015)

I'm still enjoying my SC62d almost daily after eight months. It's probably my most used light (hours used not necessarily carried). I usually carry something else, but if I need some nice moderate brightness with excellent runtime and descent tint, I reach for the SC62d. I just used it for about six solid hours while painting a room. I really wish I had a headlamp now. I still prefer it over the XM-L2 variants. 

I took a spill on my motorcycle in July and scraped up my light (and myself) pretty good, but she's still ticking. 









That's cotton from my jeans trapped in the deformed cooling fins on the head.


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## KDM (Jan 3, 2015)

Ouch! Hope you made it out better than the light did.

I sold my d version and kept the c version. Tint of the SC62c is my all time favorite of the ZL lights.


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## Erik1213 (Jan 3, 2015)

OUCH!

Sorry about the light but you can get another one of those! I hope you made it out of that accident without any lasting damage!

Also, the Zebralight headlamp strap will fit the SC62d. It's a little tight and a pain to get adjusted right but it works.


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## Slumber (Jan 3, 2015)

Other than a small scar on the bridge of my nose, I made it out, somehow, a little more handsome than before. 

I really wish I had a head strap for it. I woke up today with my lips sore from holding the light with my mouth for all those hours. I don't use my teeth anymore after having one of my chompers crowned (not from accident). 

This light has pretty much replaced my various low lumen Malkoffs as a go to light for utility purposes. The Malkoffs, though bomb proof, are just too heavy for what they do. 

I ordered my first "w" Zebra a few days ago; an SC600w. I've owned two cool 600's before and I feel they're better suited for the high lumens/heat made by the the XM-L2.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 3, 2015)

Slumber Pass said:


> I really wish I had a head strap for it. I woke up today with my lips sore from holding the light with my mouth for all those hours.



Thanks, Jim at flashlightguide.com for hosting this picture. What is not so evident is the one spot that I sewed a knot with tough nylon thread so that the elastic is farther forward, keeping the light from the 62d from getting in my eyes. (It is such a short flashlight) The fact that it is one knot on one edge of the strap also makes the light angle downward when it is worn. I wear this rig for hours when working on home projects and sometimes on night walks as well as around the house in the evening. It is my most used light, while the MBI HF is my most carried. A few days ago I fell while ice skating and the MBI was hanging off a belt loop. It hurt falling on it, but not nearly as bad as the spill on the motorcycle that happened to Slumber Pass. The Nite-Ize headstraps for sale these days are one color, not patterned like this one, from what I've seen.

I remember reading member's comments about how wonderful the tint was on the H600w. I did not like it at all and considered it false advertising, saying it was neutral. Nailbender made a dropin with an XML2 T6 3C tint that is pretty good, but I am not taking a chance with an SC62w.


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## KDM (Jan 4, 2015)

Was the H600w too warm for you? Just curious.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 4, 2015)

KDM said:


> Was the H600w too warm for you? Just curious.



Yes, and I am more tolerant of it now. It is a good light; But personal preference is the Nichia 219B 5000K and the Luxeon T 5500K.


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## twistedraven (Jan 4, 2015)

Nitecore SRT6 on top, Mini Maglite Pro in middle, SC62D on bottom. CRI difference isn't as obvious from the camera's picture, but tint definitely is. Indoors to the eyes, when bouncing the lights off the ceiling to illuminate a room, CRI makes a huge difference. It's like lifting a veil of tint off a light, making objects sharper and more in focus. It makes the same amount of lumens seem brighter than other lights.







Took the SC62D out hiking at noon on a sunny day, and compared tint of the 62D vs direct noon sunlight. The 62d has a slight washed-out look and green tint to it compared to sunlight, but otherwise a very, very good match. It's also warmer by about 500-1000k than diffused and indirect sunlight that comes through a window.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 23, 2015)

^

Nice pic, I have the SC62d on the way and hope it satisfies my tint preferences. I am a big fan of the hi cri Nichia 219A 4500K and have several lights with those emitters in them. I will post my thoughts once I have the light and can make comparisons.


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## Martin L (Jan 30, 2015)

I don´t know if the SC52d has a place in this thread, but it is a lot talk about the tint and the SC52d share the exact same emitter and optics sooooo... I just need to make some comments about the Luxeon T and some other mentioned stuff.

My SC52d sample: Nice tinted neutral 5K-ish hotspot, but with a slight green edge only spotted in direct comparison to.... Nichia 219b. Hot spot kind of small made it to a resonable mini thrower with a 14500, made it fun to use. Too cold spill with a blue-ish colour made the hole output feel to cold and not neutral IMO. If the hotspot had been bigger the nice tint from the hotspot had made the overall output more comfortable, if you know what I mean... The Nichia 219b has so much more warmth in the overall beam as it is more uniform from hotspot, corona and all the way to the spill which make the Nichia 219b feel more comfortable pared with other surrounding ligth sources. It make it blend better.

I sold the SC52d only because the cold spill. Everything else is near perfection IMO. I would have tried a c version, if available, but did order a 52w instead with that larger hotspot. We´ll see how that example turns out....

Please read these comments with the following in your mind: I am a white-wall hunter and I am a tint snob. There you have it! Most people would not notice any of these issues, I´m sure... Shining outside is a totally different story, much much more forgiving.


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## Martin L (Jan 30, 2015)

Tvistedraven, nice pictures - thanks! Have you re-painted the walls before you took every picture?  It is redicules how the spill is influencing everything and changes the colour of the walls that much. The last tint is the only acceptable IMO.


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## twistedraven (Jan 30, 2015)

Martin L said:


> I don´t know if the SC52d has a place in this thread, but it is a lot talk about the tint and the SC52d share the exact same emitter and optics sooooo... I just need to make some comments about the Luxeon T and some other mentioned stuff.
> 
> My SC52d sample: Nice tinted neutral 5K-ish hotspot, but with a slight green edge only spotted in direct comparison to.... Nichia 219b. Hot spot kind of small made it to a resonable mini thrower with a 14500, made it fun to use. Too cold spill with a blue-ish colour made the hole output feel to cold and not neutral IMO. If the hotspot had been bigger the nice tint from the hotspot had made the overall output more comfortable, if you know what I mean... The Nichia 219b has so much more warmth in the overall beam as it is more uniform from hotspot, corona and all the way to the spill which make the Nichia 219b feel more comfortable pared with other surrounding ligth sources. It make it blend better.
> 
> ...



Hi Martin L, this is only my second 'high end' flashlight, but I too noticed those same subtle qualities from the 62D's beam, and what you describe is spot-on. Perfect-white hotspot, very slight green corona, and slightly blueish spill. I don't have a Nichia to compare it to, but I can imagine it would only look worse next to one. This has been the biggest hotspot of the few flashlights that I've owned so far, so the hotspot isn't small to me, but I sometimes do wish for a TIR optics with 70/120 beam, like from Armytek. IMO diffusers compromise with too much flood, and the beam's diffused too much to around 170 degrees, which is a no-no to me.

Now I'm actually thinking about getting a cheap Nichia 4500k 92 CRI light, but I doubt I'd keep it because I'm in love with the UI and form factor of the Zebralight too much. If there were a 62 body, with TIR optics and single Nichia 219 with around the same output of the 62D, man that would be the perfect light for me.



Martin L said:


> Tvistedraven, nice pictures - thanks! Have you re-painted the walls before you took every picture?  It is redicules how the spill is influencing everything and changes the colour of the walls that much. The last tint is the only acceptable IMO.



Haha! The walls weren't repainted, and also keep in mind the camera's white-balance sort of emphasized the differences, but yes the gist of it is that the XML is greenish, the Maglite it bluish, and the 62D is very.. warmish in comparison (those walls are painted beige.)


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## Martin L (Jan 30, 2015)

Thanks twistedraven. In the beginning of this funny, and most addictive hobby, I had been really pleased with my 52d's tint, but things changed when i got the L10, Nichia 219b. So my best advise is -don´t buy a Nichia! Nothing will be the same :thinking:. It is near perfection and the other lights will probably get angry . Nichia can´t compete with the redicolus hunt for the highest lumen though. I say: Lumens is not everything, but is good to have around now and then. For me it´s more important to have a nice tint in a EDC light, not a thrower.. I start to wish there was an even warmer Nichia around in an attractive price range, like from the L10, but that´s me. I lean towards warmer and warmer tints in my light quest journey, but the warm emitters is hard to find in stock lights. I started with a Nitecore EA4 without knowing better (lacking knowlage about both tint and moon mode) . ZL has the 4K Luxeon, but I will try the w XML versions with that bigger hotspot and see what that takes me. You must be very lucky to get a good tinted XML, so we´ll see.. I think I´m just trying to say that tint is sooo damn "in your own eyes to like" - a preference thing and can be discussed forever :thinking:

PS. I´m sure you know that i was kidding regarding the re-paint :twothumbs... Yeah, that white balance thing do mis lead us now and then... Good hunting, it is a fun hobby for sure!


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## twistedraven (Jan 30, 2015)

Is the CCT of the Nichia in your L10 at 4500k Martin? I was thinking of getting either an L10, Eagletac clicky or a custom flashlight with Solarforce host to see what a Nichia can do. I don't want the 5000k Nichias though.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 30, 2015)

Just a brief message to those CPF guests as well as members less familiar with this stuff: these two guys making the recent posts are partly making illumination decisions based on staring at a white wall. One of them has admitted such. While that is certainly their choice to do so; using flashlights in the field, or at work, or around the house is where the 'rubber meets the road' and is the real litmus test. The SC62d works very well. I use mine every night. The Nichia seem to exaggerate the browns and dark reds for the most part. At very bright light levels however (as in a triple emitter at 100%), I find the Nichia 219B 5000K superior. Others will differ.


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## Charles L. (Jan 30, 2015)

I'm with you, Kitrobaskin. My two favorite tints in my collection are the Nichia 219a in my L3 Illumination L10's and the Luxeon in my SC62d, but I prefer the SC62d. Aesthetics aside, I find it a more accurate representation of colors.

However, I have a triple Nichia 219b on order -- that may change my mind


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## markr6 (Jan 30, 2015)

Martin L said:


> I am a white-wall hunter and I am a tint snob. There you have it! Most people would not notice any of these issues, I´m sure...



Same here. If I can get a light that works ALMOST as good for what I need, and it has a better tint (whether or not I can even tell in some applications), I'll take it. Why not? The peace of mind alone knowing that it will look better indoors, outdoors, under my car, etc, is worth it to me even if it has less output. Now if we're talking 200lm vs 1000lm "throwers" to see 300 yds away, that's a differnet story.

All other hobbies have their "baselines" or anal retentive testing, so why should hunting a white wall be a bad thing? (i.e. computers and overclocking, knives and cutting paper to test a razor edge, backpacking and counting every gram, so many others)

Let's just be thankful Zebralight started offering more than two different emitters, which, is already twice as much as most manufacturers! Still not touching that Nichia though!

And this SC32...wow...tiny! Hopefully they add some Luxeon emitters to these as well.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 30, 2015)

markr6 said:


> ...so why should hunting a white wall be a bad thing?
> 
> And this SC32...wow...tiny! Hopefully they add some Luxeon emitters to these as well.



Seems like it was markr6 who first talked about the SC62d being too cool, with a tinge of green. Funny thing though, I was outside this afternoon, solid cloudy and snow all around, and the 62d was on the side of my head on medium. Guess what? The tint was warmer than the daylight, by far. No hint of green or cool spill.

Each of us will make up our own mind what compromises we will make. I just hope the newcomers won't get caught up in the quest for perfection. If you're having fun with it, more power to you. If the tint is not distracting, that is good enough for me. 

markr6 you were right also about the Nichia 219B 5000K hitting the spot for those of us who want white whites plus good color rendering, and I still would definitely buy an SC62n with that emitter, in a heartbeat, even though I have and love two SC62d's.

If I am not mistaken: According to ZL specs, the SC32 empty, weighs the same as the SC62 empty. It is amazingly short, though.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jan 30, 2015)

KITROBASKIN said:


> ...
> If I am not mistaken: According to ZL specs, the SC32 empty, weighs the same as the SC62 empty. It is amazingly short, though.



Close. Zebralight lists the SC32 weighing 38g while the SC62 weighs 40g.


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## Tachead (Jan 30, 2015)

Anyone know if a SC32d with the 85 CRI Luxeon T 5000k is planned? I might have to try my first Zebralight if this model comes out. Now if they could just change their fugly *** styling. I mean come on ZL, make a more traditional design(no funky rings exc. just standard tactical look like most other brands) with a tail cap clicky with emitter choices, PID, and your UI and you will dominate. I know so many people including myself that stay away from Zebralight just because of the fugly looks.


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## Charles L. (Jan 30, 2015)

Tachead said:


> Now if they could just change their fugly *** styling.



Agreed, they are not the most beautiful lights! But then, to my eyes, neither are most Surefires (Oveready and other customizers aside). We have to look for beauty in their design -- and in that regard, they are indeed beautiful. For example, when I line up a few of my lights and the 18650-equipped SC62 is smaller than some of my AA and CR123 lights, I can't help but think how beautiful it is


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 30, 2015)

The 'ribbed for her pleasure' ridges increase surface area for cooling and provide a certain strengthening to the tube. It provides some traction for gripping without getting into rough knurling (although I do like the Diamond Back texture on the Oveready product) and the head is designed to have the switch recessed enough to avoid unintentional activation. I love the functionality and uniqueness of the design and therefore think it is beautiful. I think many owners learn to appreciate it and yawn at 'tacticool'.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jan 30, 2015)

KITROBASKIN said:


> The 'ribbed for her pleasure' ridges increase surface area for cooling and provide a certain strengthening to the tube. It provides some traction for gripping without getting into rough knurling (although I do like the Diamond Back texture on the Oveready product) and the head is designed to have the switch recessed enough to avoid unintentional activation. I love the functionality and uniqueness of the design and therefore think it is beautiful. I think many owners learn to appreciate it and yawn at 'tacticool'.



Personally, I'd like a little more knurling. The SC62 is a little more slippery than I'd like in my EDC. Nothing a little knurling wouldn't have fixed.

Still... even without knurling, the SC62w is the best 18650 pocket EDC on the market today.


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## twistedraven (Jan 30, 2015)

I find the scalloped design to be grippier than regular knurling. I also like the aesthetic in general, and on the opposite am very particular when it comes to the look of the average tactical type of flashlight.

I can definitely see the 62D being warmer than noon sunlight on a slight overcast day. Direct noon sunlight is at around 5500k, but with perfect color rendition and without any tinge. Comparing the hotspot of the brightest setting on the 62D to direct noon sunlight, I found the 62D damn close, but slightly faded out and ever-so-slightly green. Diffused, indirect sunlight that comes through my windows throughout the day has to be in the high 5k or low 6k range.


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## treek13 (Jan 31, 2015)

Tachead said:


> ... Now if they could just change their fugly *** styling. I mean come on ZL, make a more traditional design(no funky rings exc. just standard tactical look like most other brands) with a tail cap clicky with emitter choices, PID, and your UI and you will dominate. I know so many people including myself that stay away from Zebralight just because of the fugly looks.


The fact that they just don't follow the crowd is a huge part of the Zebralight appeal. I hope they never abandon their design aesthetic (at least not across the board). The side switch is much more ergonomic for normal use & I don't miss the knurling at all. 

That said, they do have some future models on their Zebralight Product Comparison page that will be more tactical with a tail switch. They have been up there for quite a while though so who knows when or if they will be released.


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 1, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> I find the scalloped design to be grippier than regular knurling. I also like the aesthetic in general, and on the opposite am very particular when it comes to the look of the average tactical type of flashlight....



The scallops help provide some friction against the light sliding forward or backwards, but they do nothing at all against slipping sideways in the direction of the ribs.

The scallops are grippier than the older completely smooth tube on the Zebralight SC51, but there's no comparison with the relatively aggressive knurling on my Zebralight SC80. The SC80 is 100x as grippy as any of the newer ribbed Zebralights.


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## KDM (Feb 1, 2015)

I'll have to agree that they aren't the most beautiful lights for sure. I certainly don't buy them for their looks. UI, compact design, neutral tints are the reasons I purchase Zebralight products. The SC80 was a great design, I would love to see them build a updated version of that light. Add a diamond/gunner style grip and have cell detection capability. While I'm dreaming, a screw on deep pocket clip and the ability to reverse the cell tube.


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 1, 2015)

KDM said:


> I'll have to agree that they aren't the most beautiful lights for sure. I certainly don't buy them for their looks. UI, compact design, neutral tints are the reasons I purchase Zebralight products. The SC80 was a great design, I would love to see them build a updated version of that light. Add a diamond/gunner style grip and have cell detection capability. While I'm dreaming, a screw on deep pocket clip and the ability to reverse the cell tube.



I'd love an updated version of the SC80. While they're at it they should thin the rather thick battery tube. With a thinner walled tube and a wider insert, the light should be able to run on 17500 or 18500. And with the insert installed it could run CR123, 16340, 18350, AA, and 14500.


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## KDM (Feb 1, 2015)

I run a AW 17500 in mine, they fit and work great in both of mine.


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## Tachead (Feb 1, 2015)

Does anyone know if/when an SC32d with the 85 CRI Luxeon T 5000k is planned? Thanks:thumbsup:


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## Martin L (Feb 2, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> Is the CCT of the Nichia in your L10 at 4500k Martin? I was thinking of getting either an L10, Eagletac clicky or a custom flashlight with Solarforce host to see what a Nichia can do. I don't want the 5000k Nichias though.



My L10 has the 219b emitter and the "b" stands for 5K, the "a" for 4,5K. The SB Flashlight home page still says that these lights comes with a 219a 4,5K but that is not true. They changed the emitter somewhere in the middle of 2014 and has not taken the time to update the info. Jason W at SBF has confirmed. If the Luxeon d is 5K the 219b is more like around 4,5K. They cannot be in the same ball park for sure... But, how do the manufacturer really measure the tint? A median of the hole output or only the hotspot or what?

Thanks Markr6 for backing me up on the white-wall hunting thing . I have read your comments in the past and know you have the white-wall hunting issues as well... I think we should follow Kitrobaskin advise and use the lights more on the outside and don´t be so damn picky... It had been more healthy . My intensions are not to scare away new members. I am sorry if my previous posts had that tone/tint content. Have fun!


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 2, 2015)

Martin L said:


> Thanks Markr6 for backing me up on the white-wall hunting thing . I have read your comments in the past and know you have the white-wall hunting issues as well... I think we should follow Kitrobaskin advise and use the lights more on the outside and don´t be so damn picky... It had been more healthy . My intensions are not to scare away new members. I am sorry if my previous posts had that tone/tint content. Have fun!



Markr6 deserves respect. One could say I am a closet white wall hunter, scrutinizing the quality of the color of the white wall with sunlight before using it with a flashlight. Shhhh


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## markr6 (Feb 2, 2015)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Markr6 deserves respect. One could say I am a closet white wall hunter, scrutinizing the quality of the color of the white wall with sunlight before using it with a flashlight. Shhhh



HAHA thanks. Well it is winter with snow on the ground...so I do a bit of white _floor _hunting now while backpacking! A good tint on the snow always makes me smile. I actually plan most of my trips to start after work with a 4hr drive, so arriving around 9pm lets me use my Zebralights a lot. 4500-5000 is perfect. I could actually go warmer. A cool white on the snow is just too harsh after a while.

And speaking of the L10, I do like my 219A better than 219B. Both nice, but I wish the A was still used.


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## twistedraven (Feb 2, 2015)

Does anybody know what the difference is between the Nichia 219 a/b and the d used on the eagletacs?


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## Lithium466 (Feb 2, 2015)

Zebralight "d" lights use Philips Luxeon T led, Eagletac Nichia 219B as far as I'm aware???


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## twistedraven (Feb 2, 2015)

I'm asking the difference between nichia a/b and nichia d, as used in the eagletac clickies.


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## Lithium466 (Feb 2, 2015)

I am not aware of d Nichia used by Eagletac, please enlighten me. :thinking:
My D25C uses a 219B.


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## twistedraven (Feb 2, 2015)

Nevermind, I thought I read somewhere on GoingGear that it was a D.


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## markr6 (Feb 2, 2015)

FYI, my EagleTac D25LC2 had a Nichia 219A and the tint was the absolute BEST ever. I did sell it though becasue the UI drove me insane. Definitely not 5000K as stated though. Much warmer, but in a good way. Maybe that was a typo.


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## twistedraven (Feb 2, 2015)

Guess I'll order a D25LC2 and see what all these noise about the Nichia is about. Hopefully it's not too much better so I can just settle on the 62D for a long time! Of course I could always come away greatly preferring the Zebralight form factor and UI as well.


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## BigBluefish (Feb 25, 2015)

Just received my SC62d from Illumination Supply. Must say, I love the tint on the Luxeon T, perhaps better even than the several Nichia 219s I have. The beam pattern is also great, very smooth, with a good spill and adequate throw for an EDC. Haven't had much chance to use it outside (but I'll take it out again walking the dog tonight.) 

I'm really liking this ZL. For the longest time, I wasn't even thinking about these lights. 1. They are, frankly, ugly; and 2. I didn't like the side switch. But last fall, I picked up a ZL headlamp and found it was great in the woods. 

Well, ugly-smugly, the light is very small for an 18650, very ergonomic, has a great tint, useful levels, and a good UI for an EDC. As for the side switch, I found I actually do like it. A lot. 

But, I'm wondering if I have a problem with my light, or if I am just misunderstanding the UI. When I double click from High or Medium, the light will only toggle between the default setting for that level, and one sub level. I presume this sub-level is programmable using 6 clicks. But when I turn it on to low and double click, the light gives me 2 sublevels to toggle through. 

7 levels in total is actually more than I need, but the specs on the ZL website suggest to me that there are two sublevels below the default level on high and medium as well.

Am I misunderstanding the spec sheet or the UI? Or is my light wonky? 

The beacon mode is nicely hidden away, and should be useful for signaling when needed. The strobe is quite nauseating. Which I guess is it's purpose. It works. Could be useful, but by the time it kicks in...let's just say this is definitely not a "tactical" light.

I like this so much, I think I will get an SC52 as well. But now I can't decide between the SC52w L2, or the SC52d. Kinda wish ZL offered an SC52c. I think I'll probably get the -52d, then try the "w" in the -32 when it is available. 

I could see these -62s, -52s and -32s replacing several of my lights, save for my Surefires, Malkoffs, and Klaruses (Klarusi?).


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## KDM (Feb 27, 2015)

I have a SC32w pre-ordered and looking forward to receiving it. BUT I really hope they decide to release a SC32c. When comparing my SC62c to my lights with a Nichia 219A the ZL is slightly warmer. The difference can be seen on the white wall but using it on anything thing other its minimal to none.

It is extremely close to the 4000k XP-L from IS both in color temperature and tint. Of course just not the output the XP-L is capable of.


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## Ned-L (Jun 19, 2015)

I was thinking of replacing my Nitecore EC2 that I recently lost (I think it is the first light I ever lost) with the EagleTac D25LC2 Mini or the Nitecore EC21 until I saw the Zebralight SC62. It looks like it would be small enough to comfortably EDC in the front pocket of almost any pants. Does anyone carry it loose in a front pocket versus with the clip? How much lower output is the SC62D than the cool white?


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 19, 2015)

I do carry a small 1x8650 light in my pants pocket. I find it comfortable for pocket carry, but definitely wouldn't want to go larger.

The SC62d is substantially dimmer than my SC62w. Personally, I doubt I'd ever carry my SC62d. If I felt like carrying an 18650 Zebra, I'd grab the SC62w.


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## Amelia (Jun 19, 2015)

Ned-L said:


> I was thinking of replacing my Nitecore EC2 that I recently lost (I think it is the first light I ever lost) with the EagleTac D25LC2 Mini or the Nitecore EC21 until I saw the Zebralight SC62. It looks like it would be small enough to comfortably EDC in the front pocket of almost any pants. Does anyone carry it loose in a front pocket versus with the clip? How much lower output is the SC62D than the cool white?



I do not have a cool white SC62, but I do have a similar output SC62w (and SC62d to compare the SC62w to).
The SC62d is around 600 lumens less than the SC62w, which sounds like a lot. However, in real-world use based on the way our eyes really see differences in brightness, it turns put to not be as significant as you would think. Comparing the 2 lights side by side, I would say that the SC62w perceptually is only about 50% brighter than the SC62d, giving you maybe 150 yards of effective light vs. the SC62d's 100 yard range.
I own a pair of each light, and to be honest with you the SC62w lights hardly get any use recently. Dust gathering seems to be their main function in my collection, I just like using the SC62d's that much more! Beautiful high-CRI tint and nice beam, lots of output modes to choose from, excellent runtime, light weight and small... what's not to love? Great lights.


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## markr6 (Jun 19, 2015)

Fireclaw18 said:


> The SC62d is substantially dimmer than my SC62w. Personally, I doubt I'd ever carry my SC62d. If I felt like carrying an 18650 Zebra, I'd grab the SC62w.



Same thoughts here, even though I'm a high CRI/tint freak. I sold my SC62d immediately after getting the 62w. Just a ton of light, and larger hotspot as a bonus. You may have to get both to make a good decision then sell whichever one you don't want.


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## Ned-L (Jun 19, 2015)

Fireclaw18 said:


> I do carry a small 1x8650 light in my pants pocket. I find it comfortable for pocket carry, but definitely wouldn't want to go larger.
> 
> The SC62d is substantially dimmer than my SC62w. Personally, I doubt I'd ever carry my SC62d. If I felt like carrying an 18650 Zebra, I'd grab the SC62w.



Which small 1x18650 light do you carry?


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## Ned-L (Jun 19, 2015)

Amelia said:


> I do not have a cool white SC62, but I do have a similar output SC62w (and SC62d to compare the SC62w to).
> The SC62d is around 600 lumens less than the SC62w, which sounds like a lot. However, in real-world use based on the way our eyes really see differences in brightness, it turns put to not be as significant as you would think. Comparing the 2 lights side by side, I would say that the SC62w perceptually is only about 50% brighter than the SC62d, giving you maybe 150 yards of effective light vs. the SC62d's 100 yard range.
> I own a pair of each light, and to be honest with you the SC62w lights hardly get any use recently. Dust gathering seems to be their main function in my collection, I just like using the SC62d's that much more! Beautiful high-CRI tint and nice beam, lots of output modes to choose from, excellent runtime, light weight and small... what's not to love? Great lights.



Thanks for your opinion - I would be second guessing my thoughts regarding the SC62d if I just read the other two replies. I do like very bright, small lights. As I already own the ZL SC600 MKII Cool White, I am hoping that I will be content with the high-CRI tint but lower output of the SC62d versus the SC62w.


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## Amelia (Jun 19, 2015)

Ned-L said:


> Thanks for your opinion - I would be second guessing my thoughts regarding the SC62d if I just read the other two replies. I do like very bright, small lights. As I already own the ZL SC600 MKII Cool White, I am hoping that I will be content with the high-CRI tint but lower output of the SC62d versus the SC62w.



Keep in mind that a lot of this is subjective, and varies from person to person. A lot of it depends on your intended use for the light too. When I first got into lights, all that I cared about was brightness - after all, that's the most noticeable thing about a light when you first turn it on. Later, I started noticing and caring about things like runtime, tint, beam shape, artifacts, and eventually CRI. Now, if a light doesn't do well in almost all of these areas, I'm just not interested.

My main uses for the SC62 lights are around the camp, short walks in the neighborhood, and occasional around the house and basement (although I typically prefer a headlamp for that). For these uses, I find myself using the Medium settings the most, around maybe 50 to 100 lumens. High CRI is more important to me for overall joy of using the light than brightness is, so for me the SC62d is the clear winner FOR MY INTENDED USAGE. For situations where I need outright blazing brightness, I don't reach for a SCxx class light anyway, I'll grab either a thrower like the S200C2 or a monster flooder like the MX25L3C. It all depends on what you want to use the light for, and what is most important to you personally. If you're looking for a single "multi-purpose" light that will TRY to fill all roles while still being compact snd lightweight, the SC62w might fit your meeds better than the SC62d.

Hope this helps.


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## Ned-L (Jun 19, 2015)

Amelia said:


> Keep in mind that a lot of this is subjective, and varies from person to person. A lot of it depends on your intended use for the light too. When I first got into lights, all that I cared about was brightness - after all, that's the most noticeable thing about a light when you first turn it on. Later, I started noticing and caring about things like runtime, tint, beam shape, artifacts, and eventually CRI. Now, if a light doesn't do well in almost all of these areas, I'm just not interested.
> 
> My main uses for the SC62 lights are around the camp, short walks in the neighborhood, and occasional around the house and basement (although I typically prefer a headlamp for that). For these uses, I find myself using the Medium settings the most, around maybe 50 to 100 lumens. High CRI is more important to me for overall joy of using the light than brightness is, so for me the SC62d is the clear winner FOR MY INTENDED USAGE. For situations where I need outright blazing brightness, I don't reach for a SCxx class light anyway, I'll grab either a thrower like the S200C2 or a monster flooder like the MX25L3C. It all depends on what you want to use the light for, and what is most important to you personally. If you're looking for a single "multi-purpose" light that will TRY to fill all roles while still being compact snd lightweight, the SC62w might fit your meeds better than the SC62d.
> 
> Hope this helps.


Amelia,

I think you are right on. I use my flashlights mostly for around the house at night, when I go running on the street in the neighborhood at dusk/dark, and for camping. I rarely "need" blazing brightness. I ordered the SC62d.
Thanks, Ned


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 19, 2015)

Ned-L said:


> Which small 1x18650 light do you carry?



*My current EDC is a DQG 18650 Tiny III*. It's a sideclicky flashlight smaller (narrower and shorter) than an SC62, and much grippier due to very nice knurling. Mine's 88mm long with a Samsung 25R installed. Biggest disadvantages of the stock DQG18650 is bad UI lacking shortcut to turbo, relatively low output, slightly greenish tint, and protruding metal switch button prone to accidental pocket activation.

*I heavily modded mine*:
1. Replaced stock driver with 3.8 amp Nanjg 105c with DrJones Mokkadrv e-switch firmware (I love this UI... better than Zebralight in my opinion).
2. Replaced stock XML2 emitter with triple high-intensity XPL on direct copper (2x4000k and 1x5000k)
3. Added coppper heatsink for star to rest on.
4. Replaced stock optic with Carclo 10507 triple TIR.
5. Replaced switch with different more responsive momentary pushbutton.
6. Added modified #6 finishing washer around the button to convert protruding button into a recessed one. Haven't had any accidental activations since doing this.

Beam is quite pretty. Fairly floody, but still with some throw. It's substantially brighter than my SC62w on turbo. I estimate maybe 1300-1500 lumens out-the-front. I'm hoping to eventually change the driver to a FET driver with a very short turbo timer (maybe 10-15 seconds) and a steep turbo reduction to maybe 25-30%. Either that or wait for Richard at Mountain Electronics to finish designing his temp-sensor driver. Idea would be 3000+ lumens for the first 10-15 seconds then rapid rampdown to maybe 1200 lumens.

*Other small 18650 I've carried*:
*Aleto N8 zoomie*. This is the smallest 18650 zoomie on the market. 

I heavily modded mine to make it even smaller:
1. Replaced stock driver with 3.8 amp Nanjg 105c with DrJones Mokkadrv e-switch firmware
2. Added external side electronic switch.
3. reduced body and head length. Removed tailcap switch. 
4. Added copper heatsink
5. Swapped stock XML to a 5000K high-intensity XPL.
6. Replaced stock 18mm aspheric lens with 20mm fresnel lens.
7. Added rubber grip over the battery tube.
8. Stripped off ugly gold anodizing and replaced with with grey Duracoat.

Result is probably the smallest 18650 zoomie in the world. Entire length is 91mm, smaller and narrower than a Sipik 68. With the current fresnel throw isn't great... maybe 16k lux. I have an alternate bezel with 20mm aspheric I could swap in. Doing so increases the overall length of the light by 4mm but would increase max throw to maybe 30k lux.

I like modding my lights. I also like it that both of the above lights are utterly unique. I haven't heard of anyone else successfully modding either one.


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## RIX TUX (Jun 19, 2015)

Ned-L said:


> Amelia,
> 
> I think you are right on. I use my flashlights mostly for around the house at night, when I go running on the street in the neighborhood at dusk/dark, and for camping. I rarely "need" blazing brightness. I ordered the SC62d.
> Thanks, Ned


Why not get the sc62? it is the same price and you get the 1000 lumen setting as a bonus. And you still have the med outputs you want.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jun 19, 2015)

Ned already ordered the 62d. Some people prefer the more natural cast of the Luxeon T. Being a Cree, I imagine both the 62 and 62w have more green and in the case of the 62w, significant yellow that the 62d does not. I have yet to see what members think of the actual difference of brightness between the d and the w after the lights have been on for a few minutes or more. I am (once again) guessing the PID will take the w down quite a bit because of the heat generated in such a lightweight torch. And unless you have a need, like theDoc007, to carry only one light, and the added brightness of the w really does the job better, and the d is unable to get that extra distance and/or brightness, then some of us much prefer the non-distracting tint of the the SC62d.


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## RIX TUX (Jun 19, 2015)

I have had both and the d is a nice tint but my 62 "cool" is not that bad, I guess I lucked out on the tint lottery but I cant afford to have both.....unless someone wants to donate a 62d they don't want.


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## Slumber (Jun 19, 2015)

I own an SC62d and an SC600w MKII L2. In the smaller package, I prefer the cooler running SC62d and the stupid proof, 3 hour "no matter what" runtime. Mine is a beater and I feel comfortable loaning it out, knowing they won't call me in 30 minutes asking why it died. Tint is lovely and I'll leave the high lumens for lights with more mass. YMMV.


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## KITROBASKIN (Feb 23, 2016)

Just want to give a big Thank You to brightguy.com for selling me one of the last ZebraLight SC62d available to purchase new. My second one from them and plan on keeping it unused for the future. My other two get rotated and operated regularly, day and night. I'm glad members are enjoying the newest ZebraLight models, though.


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## markr6 (Feb 23, 2016)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Just want to give a big Thank You to brightguy.com for selling me one of the last ZebraLight SC62d available to purchase new. My second one from them and plan on keeping it unused for the future. My other two get rotated and operated regularly, day and night. I'm glad members are enjoying the newest ZebraLight models, though.



Or get a new one on ebay for the LOW LOW PRICE OF ONLY $105!! ACT NOW!

Crazy ebay people :shakehead


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## jondextan (Mar 31, 2016)

so... in the time of 1000lmns for a single 18650 battery, is the SC62d still a good purchase?


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## KITROBASKIN (Apr 1, 2016)

jondextan said:


> so... in the time of 1000lmns for a single 18650 battery, is the SC62d still a good purchase?



Check out how people feel about standard Malkoff dropins, or HDS flashlights. Those highly respected photonmakers are not pedal-to-the-metal units by any means. I do not like to let my lights get really hot when about the house or using a light outdoors where I am distracted by something (like a new puppy). The tint is really non-distracting. We walked as dawn arrived this morning, and as the sunlight became more prominent, the light from the 62d was very, very compatible with the emerging day. The User Interface is second nature to me because of nightly and sometimes day use. I have it on a headstrap, side mounted. I can use virtually any kind of hat, as well as hold a thrower and a dog leash when necessary. When the puppy gets older, I'll go back to an Oveready Wasp for area lighting in the field, but at home and doing projects, it is the 62d. No fuss, no burning mAh (battery juice) making excess heat.

Still a good purchase? Can you find one for sale?


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Apr 1, 2016)

I have a few new Zebra's and am very pleased with them but I still love my 62d and doubt I would ever part with it. Kind of like my Surefire Satin Gray E2e's(ok, I did upgrade to a Steve Ku Led), but the way it fits my hand and the dependability factor are second to none. The hi CRI 62d is just an awesome tool that does its job very well. Love it!


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## Azhobo (Apr 1, 2016)

I've got a 62d that had the emmitter swapped to a 62c(warmer), then the lense to a frosty. I just love this light . The small led with the frosty lens is perfect. I'm sure I'll get a 63 or two, but this light is hard to beat and it looks like I've been using it for 10 years. Zebralight makes s product that you can grow attached to.


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## ven (Aug 11, 2017)

Very very tempted over the 320lm sc62d, the hi cri appeals and as crazy as it sounds...................320lm high! I dont need a zillion lumens(yes its fun still), so for a 1 click 300lm for 3hrs=spot on. I can easily live with 200lm hi cri rotary(tell the truth its rare its anywhere near the 200lm on the dial). Uses are close up(within 20ft generally). My sportacs mainly get used on 20%.............heck i am a lumen frugal junkie(wont do sub lumen though). I am more for quality type beam, CT/tint for EDC/work applications. 
Flood bias over defined hot spot again to suit close up uses. The sc600fd is a must for me, xhp50 frosted lens but flashaholics dont have stock(prob back down and order direct at some point). So do many have the sc62d? Are/have you been happy with it? ............

Cheers


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## Climb14er (Aug 11, 2017)

The SC 62 cw is the finest light that I own! I prefer a cw for crisp, clear, well defined resolution both indoors and especially outdoors, mainly for self defense and lighting up my property. The 62 is small, powerful and bright! I could not ask for anything more from a hand held light to illuminate the surroundings.


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## GunnarGG (Aug 11, 2017)

I like my SC62d very much and it's bright enough.
Have the sc600 MKIII HI also and they are very similar in beam profile.


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## gunga (Aug 11, 2017)

They are nice (had a sc62d). I recommend you use DC fix for a more floody beam though.


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## ven (Aug 12, 2017)

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. Yes, your DC fix is still going strong on the pocket rocket Mike, love that stuff. It is my around the house go to light still(can not see that ever changing ). The driver is set to a simple 1 mode, click on and i estimate 150 ish lumens(could be 100, could be 200 that means :laughing:. But its just a perfect 218b 4000k bit of flood.....................nothing to me is any more useful for general use. 

Thanks again


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## ven (Aug 12, 2017)

Ordered! Worked out at £69 with cpf discount and free 24hr post from flashaholics.

Should be a perfect work light(any excuse as i seem to mention it a lot!...........who cares). 320lm ish of hi cri will work well around 5000k, being a little throwy should be fine as i have a 219b mule and 219b triple for floody type uses. Sometimes its just handy to focus some light on a subject without lighting up too much area............this should fit the bill well. I have also been using my m20vn, single mode of maybe 400lm(guess) of 219b goodness. So this is no dedicated thrower, but still has a defined hot spot/spill. Being around 400lm (+ or - 100 as its my eyes measuring), its not painful close up(within 10ft say). 

You guys have me hooked......................i love ZL . Hard to explain really, but that 1st time a HDS goes in your hand and you just feel a special light. You know its just right..............ZL gives me the same kind of feeling. Underneath its dark green ano, feels like a more personal/custom type light away from Fenix/Nitecore/olight types. It just has a kind of special feel to it, only certain lights can give(do i make sense, does anyone kind of relate). The haiku again is another kind of light that.................

Pics and impressions to follow later on Tuesday if all goes to plan. What have you guys down to me:nana:


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 12, 2017)

ven said:


> Ordered! Worked out at £69 with cpf discount and free 24hr post from flashaholics.
> 
> Should be a perfect work light(any excuse as i seem to mention it a lot!...........who cares). 320lm ish of hi cri will work well around 5000k, being a little throwy should be fine as i have a 219b mule and 219b triple for floody type uses. Sometimes its just handy to focus some light on a subject without lighting up too much area............this should fit the bill well. I have also been using my m20vn, single mode of maybe 400lm(guess) of 219b goodness. So this is no dedicated thrower, but still has a defined hot spot/spill. Being around 400lm (+ or - 100 as its my eyes measuring), its not painful close up(within 10ft say).
> 
> ...



I agree with you about the feel of a Zebralight. I just received my convoy S2 + with 18650 and 18350 tubes from Randy over at PflexPro. He built a custom light for me. 

Nichia 219c (single)
Advanced driver (dr jones)
Orange peel reflector 
Forward clicky
Color is flat black

I know it doesn't sound all that great but the driver is potted, the switch is bypassed with a copper tip soldered to the spring. Not sure what the pill looks like but seems like it's stock convoy that's been potted. Really nice lite and love the beam profile, similar to my ZL MK III HI. Combination spill and spot as the reflector is shallow. The tint is just perfect. 

Having the option to swap between 18650 and 18350 is really nice for EDC. Having the option to hit 1300 lumens is also really nice.


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## ven (Aug 12, 2017)

The s2+ is a great host, lots of great options for the compact light. Sounds very nice! Cant go wrong with a PlexPro bit of kit.
Top right are 3 triples




Have the 18350 tubes to, does make for a compact power house. As much as i like it, i prefer the 18650 form and for the extra in the tank. I can just eat through an 18350 too fast!


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 12, 2017)

Where did you get the black clip?


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## ven (Aug 12, 2017)

Cobraman502 said:


> Where did you get the black clip?




The s2+ clips are just heat treated, iirc simon sells them at aliexpress(mtn elec may also have them)


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 12, 2017)

Sounds like Ven ordered a Zebralight SC62d. Is this true? I mean this is the SC62d thread. I got the last one that brightguys had. It is stored safely and my early pair of 62d's are alternated: used nightly and some days as well. For close up tasks the Nitecore TIP CRI has more of a flood but the general purpose beam configuration of the ZL is just so, all-round handy. 

Never had an HDS because I have these.
38 grams without a battery if I remember.
Once learned, the ZL user-interface is efficient and effective.
The anodizing has held up very well, though I treat it with reasonable care.
Been used in numerous dirty environments but never immersed in fluid before.
White-Wall folks can find fault but actual use is very satisfying and non-distracting.
Perhaps being a (fairly) early adopter of the superb Spyderco folders, the distinct look of the SC series of ZL's is as pleasing as the look of the thumb-hole knives.
The 62d is a balanced blend of power and runtime.

For extended nocturnal exploration, a PFlexPRO quad Nichia 219c 5000K P60 in a solid copper module and advance program, paired with an Eagtac M30 LC2 XP-L Hi compatible color temperature (a bit warmer) works for this member.

But for general use? The Zebralight SC62d has filled that role for some years now.


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## ven (Aug 12, 2017)

Hi there Kitrobaskin, yes ordered and should get around Tuesday. Thanks for the feedback/info..............appreciate it. Cant wait, looks pretty much perfect for my application in mind. You have just confirmed it!


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## TCY (Aug 12, 2017)

ven said:


> You guys have me hooked......................i love ZL . Hard to explain really, but that 1st time a HDS goes in your hand and you just feel a special light. You know its just right..............ZL gives me the same kind of feeling. Underneath its dark green ano, feels like a more personal/custom type light away from Fenix/Nitecore/olight types. It just has a kind of special feel to it, only certain lights can give(do i make sense, does anyone kind of relate). The haiku again is another kind of light that.................



I came across a reddit thread describing ZL lights as more of a "gentleman's light". I completely agree. Hank Wang knows his stuff, but the D4 still doesn't feel "just right" for me. I wonder what gives? Maybe an upcoming vn flavour would change that.

Now that you are on the ZL wagon, I bet you're gonna join the pre-order troop for the upcoming MK4 light:thumbsup:


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## ven (Aug 12, 2017)

TCY said:


> I came across a reddit thread describing ZL lights as more of a "gentleman's light". I completely agree. Hank Wang knows his stuff, but the D4 still doesn't feel "just right" for me. I wonder what gives? Maybe an upcoming vn flavour would change that.
> 
> Now that you are on the ZL wagon, I bet you're gonna join the pre-order troop for the upcoming MK4 light:thumbsup:




I think ZL for me fits in between manufactured lights and custom lights, maybe how HDS kind of sits..............kind of! The D4 is a chunk compared to ZL, although length is similar, it has some beef to it. This imo is needed for the crazy output, more WOW than maybe dedicated EDC. Hank has put the best components in the D4's(call it well tuned), unlike the e14/s42 which have been made cheaply inside(from what i have read anyway).

Both types of lights work well for me in a collection, many similarities yet ..........well quite different to. I am not sure what vinh could do, other than your exact choice of LED over the options available. Quite a few of the skilled guys over at BLF have already modded(swapped boards for Richards and swapped LED's to a more personal tuned light). 

I am very happy with the 219c, a 219c 4000k would be cool(219b 4000k also, but not sure how it would go as the LED's can not be pushed as much as the 219c iirc).

For comfort take the ZL, for fun take the D4.............feeling crazy then take both out

Will see re- the mk4 TCY, will defo keep a watch on reports/specs..................I have a lot of catching up to do as it is, never mind new lights to come out :laughing:


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 13, 2017)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Sounds like Ven ordered a Zebralight SC62d. Is this true? I mean this is the SC62d thread. I got the last one that brightguys had. It is stored safely and my early pair of 62d's are alternated: used nightly and some days as well. For close up tasks the Nitecore TIP CRI has more of a flood but the general purpose beam configuration of the ZL is just so, all-round handy.
> 
> Never had an HDS because I have these.
> 38 grams without a battery if I remember.
> ...



I didn't know PflexPro made p60 quads. Did you special order?


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## ven (Aug 13, 2017)

Neither did I.................quad 219c :naughty: Mr baskin has some very nice fine tuned equipment, if he owns it ...............its got to be good!


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 13, 2017)

It's obvious why Ven is so well liked here on candlepowerforums. Thank you sir.

Randy must be busy. No sign of the Nichia copper/brass quad P60 on his PFlexPRO website yet. So here is a link to a link on Google Photos with a few beamshot comparisons. Posts #45 and #46. Click on the 'play' arrow and elapsed time of video in the far upper right to hear sound.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...pro-lights-and-drop-ins&p=5122458#post5122458

Of the four most used flashlights in this stable (PFlexPRO Quad, Eagtac M30 LC2, Nitecore TIP CRI, ZebraLight SC62d) The ZL easily gets the more actual usage because of around-the-house and project use, with occasional field and work runtime. Because it is on a slightly-modified Nite-Ize headstrap, it serves double duty on the head and in the hand.


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## ven (Aug 13, 2017)

Thank you for the kind words, i feel very humbled....

Thank you for the video, not sure if there is sound or not but either way i enjoyed your quad 219c lighting up the area. Housed in the amazing defense light too add always loved the look of that light. 

What an awesome play ground you have there, my 1st thoughts were that area is going to eat up lumens. The quad sure lit the way, lighting up more than enough area and some. The m30 throws a nice beam as well

Thanks again, its nice to have an area without artificial light edging its way in................beautiful!


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 13, 2017)

Sorry about not mentioning that the upper right hand corner has a "play" arrow and the elapsed time of the video. Click on this to see and hear the video. Don't know why Google photos does that. Since my camera was on Auto, sometimes the color interpretation was not on. Other times it was spot on. 

We get to see our Milky Way Galaxy from some areas around here, because of the lack of night-time artificial light.


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## ven (Aug 13, 2017)

No worries, its me not used to those vids(learnt something today), watched it again anyway
Colours did look very good and how i would say accurate , but yes auto balance can mess it up at times and make it look cooler than it is. 

Sounds amazing!


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## ven (Aug 15, 2017)

Well the sc62d arrived today, opened the box and love at 1st sight...............love the design(ribbed body:naughty. After checking it over, checking LED is centred, a 30Q was put in it. Checking the contacts(springs both ends), 1 click on to test out the H1. Pretty much perfect and what i expected, ideal for inspections(1 click wonder). Over the coming days/weeks i will get used to both H1 and H2, also the M modes. I may get away with a M1 for example, or a H2 for most use.............only a double click away anyway, no clicking through modes. 

For example(i know not quite the same as the UI is a little more advanced) the sc5c mkII has both the H levels set at 2 useful levels(to me this so subjective). Basically i have 2 usable levels set up on 1 main level, so double click and i simply swap to the other depending on application. 

Back to the sc62d, i think most of the time H2 will be spot on, with the hot spot a little more intense over the other ZL's i have................no need for much more. Still for checking stuff out, piercing through artificial light and shadows under large machinery, the 320lm is fine.



sc5c mkII/sc63w/sc62d


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 15, 2017)

What made you buy the 62 if you have the 63, higher CRI?


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## ven (Aug 15, 2017)

Cobraman502 said:


> What made you buy the 62 if you have the 63, higher CRI?



Maybe 3 reasons(certainly 2 anyway), 1st reason i wanted to have a 320lm high, a high that does not step down, 1 click and i know exactly where i am at. With that 3hrs run time(probably more) and 9hrs with 145lm as the next(double click when on the h1 to have 145lm of usable output). 2nd reason is that i wanted to try the phillips luxeon T hi cri out, i dont have and am a sucker for having variety/choices. 3rd i am quite fond of the body/design, this is not as much of a deciding factor as the other reasons though. 

Or i could just say i am addicted to ZL's :laughing: and any excuse


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 15, 2017)

Good reasons. Might I also add that battery choice is greater? Also that no matter what, the 62d is not really going to get that hot if someone unauthorized uses it inappropriately.

Ven, I can tell you that my default high setting is H2, which usually does the job, with a double click to H1 for those times when maximum is desired. Your application sounds different.


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## ven (Aug 15, 2017)

Hey I am in H2 right now, its at home with me(will be going with me in work tomorrow), H2 is spot on . Looking forward to dark so I can actually get a better idea as its only been used in artificial light/bits of darkness so far.

As you mentioned the battery, agree 100% as these lights are so small/light there is no reason to go for a less capacity cell to have the smaller form benefits. 3000+mah in the tank, a light that is smaller in size to a HDS ................much lighter as well. 
HDS is near the sc63w just off to the left from centre in this pic.




Beam is nice, not fully focused as it does have a little softness around it, but does punch out a more noticeable hot spot compared to the others I have. Not tested it side by side, but not too different from a typical HDS beam off the top of my head. Nice traditional type beam, but not too floody or harsh in the hot spot that can bounce back into the retinas. 

This will make a great EDC for work as it would at home, absolutely no complaints . Output to me is fine(many will think probably too low, as you can have 1000lm. But most of my uses can be satisfied well under 200lm, so 320 is plenty OTF for this little lights applications. Still 320lm gets it warm, not used it for much over 5m at one time, but i did notice the warmth. Considering how small/light it is, no wonder.....................320lm is still not to be sniffed at , especially for 3+ hrs. After all, most with HDS are more than content with 140lm, 200lm,250lm,350lm. With my 200lm hi cri, not often the dial is wound right up, most uses would probably be around 1/2 that output, maybe to 140lm(guesstimate).

Here i tried to catch the 3 ZL's beam/tints Jon style. Left is the 5000k Luxeon T which in use is a tad creamy but mainly pure white to my eyes(not that different to my 120 219c 5000k............if you like the 219c you will like the luxeon T! ) Middle is the sc5c mkII 4000k xp-l2 easywhite(yellow but colours look great) then the sc63w xhp35 4500k(love it!)
Not the best or accurate but a rough idea, camera does play a few tricks and this seems the best out of the few pics i tried.


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## ven (Aug 15, 2017)

Here is another, sc62d left/sc5c mkII right............less confusion for the camera


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 15, 2017)

Thanks for the explanation and pics, very helpful. God help my wallet.


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## ven (Aug 15, 2017)

:laughing: 

Welcome, do you have some ZL's already cobraman? As this is a little older, you might get a good deal if you search about. UK prices, this works out around £20 less than the sc600 mkIII etc. Need to try out the xhp50 hi cri with the flood /frosted lens next. Going to get some use out of these 1st...........

Unless you have a specific use for the sc62d, the 320lm may not be enough for you(depending on what you use ). But imo, it makes for a good EDC option, small enough, yet with the 18650 benefits and 320lm regulated for 3+hrs. The 145lm to 320lm is obviously noticeable, but not massive.............145lm for 9+hrs makes for a great EDC, one where you dont need to keep topping off or swapping out cells.

Some lights have that special kind of feel in hand, HDS spring to mind for one of them. The sc62/63 also has a kind of special feel..............hard to put down.


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 15, 2017)

Ven,

I have an SC600w MK III HI and a SC52w and they are great.


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## ven (Aug 15, 2017)

Cobraman502 said:


> Ven,
> 
> I have an SC600w MK III HI and a SC52w and they are great.





 nice! The sc52w looks great, AA or 14500 option and a nice 4500k to boot! mmmmmmmmmI guess the sc62d would fit in, 5000k still more output over the sc52w but also sustainable with no step down. If most of your uses of the sc600w mkIII is 100-300lm type outputs, then it would work for you. Is always nice to have more on tap, I have lots for grins and crazy. Sometimes its good to get back to basics and i feel some way towards that with the 1 click and usable level.

I have a couple of lights with the h17f driver, this you can have 2 mode groups of up to 7 levels each........guess what? I have them both on 1 level that can be sustained(quad 219b and single 219b). Simply a 1 click=usable output, no clicking through modes, no not being 100% on what level it will switch on. 

Most lights have a place, just sometimes we may have to look a little harder for it


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 15, 2017)

Yeah I have an S2 with the 219c and the h17f. Great driver. I opted for the 18650 and the 18350 when I want it shorter. Seem to work really well even throwing a bit of distance too. Randy over at PflexPro made it, great work.


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## Swede74 (Aug 15, 2017)

What is that strangely appealing thing in the background? A Zebralight SC9^2? (9 layers of 9 D cells)


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 15, 2017)

Seems only fair that Ven will post an image with the 62d and a 6000K beam of similar output. Then new members and visitors can see the verisimilitude of these kinds of 'comparisons'.


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> What is that strangely appealing thing in the background? A Zebralight SC9^2? (9 layers of 9 D cells)



:laughing: I wish! 
Its a vase , it has white flowers with red specs and actually gets used to check beams/tints on . Will get a pic later on when I get home to show what I mean.


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Seems only fair that Ven will post an image with the 62d and a 6000K beam of similar output. Then new members and visitors can see the verisimilitude of these kinds of 'comparisons'.




So a pic of the 5000k sc62d next to a 6000k beam? I can get close with a 5700k nichia. (P60 though so larger reflector). 
6000k I have a sportac triple xp-g2 but the beam is quite different. I have the little novatac with a 219c 5000k also(quite close to the eye . In fact , the reflector in HDS/120 novatacs are not hugely different. Tad wider (maybe a couple of mm) and a tad deeper. So fairly similar beam types/hot spots. 

I will have a go later on kitro, can't promise anything special as the camera does throw the tint out. But hopefully the difference between 5000 and 6000k should show. Truth is I actually don't have many 6000k CT's these days, will have to dig deep! My lad has a nextorch 6500k thinking about it, will try that as well. 

To describe this Philips luxeon T, would be a quite pure white with a very very slight creaminess to it. To my eyes side by side with the 219c 5000k is close. If you shut your eyes and juggled them about........you would struggle to tell which is which.


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

Cobraman502 said:


> Yeah I have an S2 with the 219c and the h17f. Great driver. I opted for the 18650 and the 18350 when I want it shorter. Seem to work really well even throwing a bit of distance too. Randy over at PflexPro made it, great work.




Nice set up, the s2's are an excellent host and flexible with it. My first 219b was from vinh in an olight m20vn,(single mode light at a guess 300-400lm) my first 219c was from gunga who fitted it to my v11r.

The h17f is one of my fav drivers, although group 1 as a single mode is my main choice. I have set up the other group as the traditional low/med/high . With the low being enough that is of use to me( I don't do low lows).


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

Vase pic as promised




Few beam pics Kitro,
1st up sc62d on the left(all pics) and Novatac 120 219c 5000k



Novatac 120 219b 4000k



Seraph 219c 5700k




Triple! sc62d T 5000k/120 219c 5000k/Seraph 219c 5700k




Far from perfect so please take as a rough guide, the sc62d looks pure, the 219c 120 also looks clean to the eye. The beautiful 4000k from the 219b is fantastic! Certainly up there with my fav flavours.
The seraph with what i am sure is the 219c 5700k ,does not look much different that the other 5000k. Tad cooler to the eye which is expected, but also a clean white beam. Camera does make it look a little blue, real life=no blue.............to my eyes anyway.


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## Swede74 (Aug 16, 2017)

ven said:


> Vase pic as promised



Thanks for the pic. Maybe the resemblance is not so striking in real life, but when looking at pictures, it looks a whole lot like ToyKeeper's (BudgetLightForum) polished SC52.


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

:naughty: that is bling! That is defo a TK light 

You know you have jogged a memory, just been digging back a bit for some pics, so thought i would share
tk75vn and tk51




Back ground here to




I remember having a silly moment(yeh yeh ok i may have many)


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

Just stuck the 30Q on charge that has been in the sc62d for over a day. Used in work today, certain tasks which involves monitoring a long conveyor(redlar) through a perspex guard. So the tighter hot spot comes in handy here over say a floody bias light. Bits of other use on/off etc. Now when i use other lights, its pretty regular my voltage is around 3.6-3.8v most of the time(be it end of the day or following morning when swapped out). 4.05v ...............pretty frugal! Its not apples to apples as the other cell/s are 16650 2500mah, also 160lm ish of triple 219b's..............but around the same kind of use. In no way scientific, just an early observation.

Part of my daily routine is swapping out cells and charging................5 days a week in work. Using this, i should be fine every other day, maybe every 3 days or twice a week. Will take some getting use to for sure

2 days use now, really happy with the CT/tint/beam and the feel/design of this little light.............my only issue is not getting a ZL a while back


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 16, 2017)

Great fun! Pictures and personal perspective a delight.

Of course this makes me want to request another challenge...

Perhaps somewhere you can do a side-by-side comparison of your 63 with the 62d at significant distance with browns in the background. Green grass will not be helpful but cardboard boxes or exposed dirt would be peachy. Let both torches run on maximum a while, Oh, whatever you see fit but long enough for the 63 to get cooking. Then let's see just how much brighter the temperature controlled 63 is compared to the 62d. I understand if this is asking too much or may take some time should you choose to do so. Understanding also that this would not be a pure apples to apples experiment. The browns in the image will give us some sense of how well colors are rendered. I won't be hurt if you decline this challenge, really.


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

Of course, i will give it a go.........anything for you sir! Probably be weekend, raining heavy right now(no surprise there). There is a tree stump(faded/light) near the end of the garden, will try and compare against that. How some brown boots to, will stick them on it................everyone's suspicions will be proved correct thanks to you  :laughing: . Just imagine, the torch guy shining torches at his boots down the garden............i mean straight jacket stuff this:laughing:

The 63 gets warm pretty fast, so by the time it settles down should be a few mins. Will be interested myself as part of the reason behind the 62d was the H1, no step down and ZL's seem to handle around 300lm all day long(well few hours anyway). Being so small/light i have no doubt both will be quite warm to hot. The hot spot is larger due to the larger quad die, spill is brighter as well, CT/tint not clean like the 62d..........little warmth in there.


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

Managed to get some pics! How quick was that................ Voltage on the sc62d was 4.02v, sc63w 3.76v(both lights on for the same time..............never noted time but around 15m give/take. The sc62d got warm and stayed warm,sc63w got toasty and stayed toasty. Gripped tight it started to hurt toasty, held loose and no need to swap hand/s. Body on the 63d got quite warm.............maybe comparable to the head of the 62d in temp. Can make out the Luxeon T 5000k difference to the xhp35's 4500k on my monitor. The T does look a little cooler(pics do make it look cooler than it actually is to the eye.)



sc62d aimed at table


aimed above so the spill lit the table



Towards tree stump




sc63w aimed at table



Above to light table in spill



Towards tree stump




Now during the(approx) 15m or so, i actually never noticed by eye the step down/s of the 63...............honestly could not tell(my eyes would no doubt have adjusted to). If i had to guess, comparable to the 62d it looked more like a 5-600lm type output from the 63w . Either way, it was considerably brighter to my eyes over the 62d. It light wider and brighter after the same duration. The 62d looked consistent from start to finish which is to be expected from the 320lm (no step down).

Both lights have a slightly different purpose for me, however i could get by fine with either one. I could just make out the 62d hot spot through the 63w's hot spot if makes sense, just a tad more intense.

Hope that helps a little kitro


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## ven (Aug 16, 2017)

Sorry forgot to add, both cells used were sony vtc5 2600mah.


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 16, 2017)

Wow that was quick! Very interesting. Any other perspective you have would be great.


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## ven (Aug 17, 2017)

I like both kitro, and no regrets with either as they fit into my little ZL collection. If you can live with a HDS type beam(1000's can) then the 62d is perfectly adequate. If you want a more of a wall of light type beam, then the sc63w's xhp35 gives this nicely. When used side by side, differences are apparent (more so than expected). I knew it was never going to WOW me, but then that never played a part in the choice. Having a nice beam, usable output and small/compact 18650 form is enough to easily win me over these days. I like the ano, design, switch feel and location, LED options, UI and how light ZL's are. For an 18650 fed EDC, ZL are a force to be reckoned with imo. Usually manufacturers get a few thing right, maybe design and LED choice. Or UI and size, for me ZL gets most right.


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 17, 2017)

I'm waiting for the SC64w with hopefully the new UI. will be better than my h17f driver for sure.


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## ven (Aug 17, 2017)

Got a xhp50 hi cri to get at some point(no rush), but will also keep a close eye on the 64 . The h17f is hard to beat imo, if its anything close then it will be a winner. I like the ability to pick how many modes and how bright each mode is...........perfect! 

The UI on the little(well maybe not that little for an AA) sc5c mkII is pretty cool. Not as flexible as the h17f by any means for setting levels and groups...............but i like it a lot for a manufacturers UI . I like the option of setting mode groups to certain levels, or coming on in set levels etc.


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## Cobraman502 (Aug 17, 2017)

Ven,

That is good to know regarding the UI on the Zebralight. I really the the UI on the SC52w and when Zebralight released the SC53 I was a little shocked they didn't support the 14500s. This lack of support is not critical since I can get eneloops but I already have these. I then looked into the SC63w as I really like the form factor and the larger 18650s. Remarkably the SC52 and SC63 are not that much different in size, just a little longer. I know the tube is larger in diameter but thats ok.

The h17f drive is great for the simple fact that i can have 2 different mode groups for the light. I have Tactical (level 16, Max Turbo and double tap to strobe) for when I'm walking the dog. Level 16 looks to be about 150 - 200 ish lumens. Level 24 is the equivalent of the SC63w on full blast. For EDC purposes I use my other group with a moon light level and some in between. I typically have my light on about 50 lumens with short cycle memory. That way if I need moon, then short cycle memory will pop me down when I tap to go to the next mode. Double tap is turbo.

Im still getting use the to h17f but your are correct I really like the UI. I would like to see if i can get a drive for the Emisar D4. I think that would be interesting but might not be as practical.


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## ven (Aug 17, 2017)

I like having the choices of different UI's for several reasons, break it up and keep things fresh. To tweak for a specific application, be it 140lm single mode or always start in low or high etc. Flip side to all these choices, not always fresh in the brain if not been used for a bit................so a little time to get use to/adjust(usually 30s or so does it) saves being turbo'd or strobed

Yes love the UI on their sc5c mkII, 



Multiple Mode Groups
This light comes with three mode groups, G5, G6 and G7. The G5, set as the factory default, can be selected with 5-click from OFF, while G6 and G7 can be selected with 6-click and 7-click from OFF respectively. Mode group selections are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes.
In all three mode groups
H can be either H1 or H2; M can be either M1 or M2; L can be either L1 or L2
from OFF: 1-click to H; 2-click to M; press and hold to cycle from L, M to H

In G5
H1 is fixed at 475Lm, H2 can be 352, 236, or 144Lm
M1 is fixed at 79Lm, M2 can be 40, 18, or 7.4Lm
L1 is fixed at 2.8Lm, L2 can be 1.0, 0.28 or 0.08Lm

In G6 and G7
H1, H2, M1, M2, L1 and L2 can be programmed to any of the 12 available brightness levels
Double-click 6 times at the H1, H2, ... L2 to enter the programming mode for that level. Once in the programming mode, use double-click to go up one level and triple-click to go down one level. Use 1-click to exit the programming mode

Three consecutive 5-click (or 6-click, 7-click) to reset the G5 (or G6, G7) back to the factory default settings


So 3 mode groups , i can tweak to what or pretty much near enough i want.

The sc5c is quite a chunk! Beefy for an AA of which is more like a 16340 body(which happens to be one of my fav form factors for edc). Still the 18650 ZL's are so compact, there really is no need for me to have an AA ZL. 







An 18650 light smaller than a 16340 light...............crazy!


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## KITROBASKIN (Aug 17, 2017)

Hey Ven, thanks again for your perspective. Was wanting to make sure: Is the hotspot lux on the 62d more than your 63w? is it what you would say significant?


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## ven (Aug 17, 2017)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Hey Ven, thanks again for your perspective. Was wanting to make sure: Is the hotspot lux on the 62d more than your 63w? is it what you would say significant?



Welcome i can talk flashlights all day
The hotspot is larger and softer around the edge on the 63w, 62d whiter and more defined which does look more concentrated. They are quite different, tight hot spot, weaker spill of the 62 ,compared to large soft(bright) hot spot with bright flood that blends into each other(flood)of the 63. So yes, lux is greater in the 62 to my eyes being more focused. Nothing to measure with ,as of yet anyway.................


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## ven (Sep 28, 2017)

Well the sc62d has gone from strength to strength in the like/love stakes. This is my fav ZL i have out of the 3, dont care if its not the brightest or latest UI like the sc5c mkII. Even pondering getting another as a back up! Or one for work, one for home kind of thing, would like the sc62w but can not find any old stock anywhere. Still the 64 will be out soon enough.............


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## bltkmt (Sep 28, 2017)

Agreed, abover ^^^. My favorite of my various ZL lights. I am lucky enough to have the "w" version and the beam color is perfect.


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## ven (Sep 28, 2017)

Jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaallllllllooooooooooooooooooooooooooooouuuuuuuuuussssss


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## bltkmt (Sep 28, 2017)

I take it back - see below. The beam is so creamy white, I thought it was a "w".


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## ven (Sep 28, 2017)

Ah ha! yes its a very nice beam, philips luxion hi cri(85) 5000k and around 320lm on H1 and 145lm on H2(perfect!)


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## ven (Oct 23, 2017)

Not sure why some of my photobucket pics have gone funny(on another none flashlight site they are fine!), its just on here which maybe 1 of 2 things, Either the chrome add on for bucket, or CPF software for re-sizing. Dont know on that. 

Still my fav ZL Few random pics, using imgur instead! 






Its had a couple(maybe 3) drops now from 3ft or so onto a hard floor. Barely a pin prick found, tough ano for sure.


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## Greenbean (Jan 4, 2018)

So I just acquired my second ever ZL, a beautiful (barely used it looks like) SC62d and I gotta tell ya. I’m really liking it! 

I’m loving the handheld in the first down by your side left/hand carry for me. Easy to turn on with my thumb. Barely noticeable and easy to switch on and change modes if needed. 

And who knew it could ride right on top of the snap closure of my cuff pouch. 

I’m now excited to be looking for a more “Duty” type light in brightness to carry on my cuff pouch. And making this one a backup in my pocket.

1-05-18 Edit:

So I discovered I can use my E2 Surefire red filter on the head! Holy cow it’s even better now!


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## 18650 (Jan 6, 2018)

Greenbean said:


> So I just acquired my second ever ZL, a beautiful (barely used it looks like) SC62d and I gotta tell ya. I’m really liking it! I’m loving the handheld in the first down by your side left/hand carry for me. Easy to turn on with my thumb. Barely noticeable and easy to switch on and change modes if needed. And who knew it could ride right on top of the snap closure of my cuff pouch. I’m now excited to be looking for a more “Duty” type light in brightness to carry on my cuff pouch. And making this one a backup in my pocket. 1-05-18 Edit: So I discovered I can use my E2 Surefire red filter on the head! Holy cow it’s even better now!


 Don't lose it because ZL doesn't seem interested in making any more non floody 'd' flashlights anymore.


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 6, 2018)

The crew:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rbAJwwvlzYWNW0J63

https://photos.app.goo.gl/78lhaqk0FOuVONsq2


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## ven (Jan 6, 2018)

Damn................3x sc62d..............thats 3x my fav ZL:naughty: When i get the 600 mk IV , be it PLUS or HI.......... or both, i cant see anything beating my sc62d as a fav. 320lm is enough for me, the body design on the sc62 is my fav(out of the sc63/64 as well).


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 6, 2018)

The two with aftermarket clips have been used nightly for years, since the 62d came out. Recently put all three of them in 7 degree Fahrenheit freezer for 8 hours. Took a little while (couple to a few minutes) for them to work; after warming a little. The 'new in box' (with stock clip) took the longest to fire up. Switched batteries to see if that mattered (used AW protected and Zebralight brand) Might try one of those low temperature 18650's to see what happens.


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## ven (Jan 7, 2018)

They have seen you right for years , you repay their loyalty by freezing them.............. I dont want to get on the wrong side of you :laughing: 

Be interesting how these new low temp cells do work and how much longer run time is available


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