# Upcoming Fenix Headlamp: HL20



## datiLED (Dec 9, 2009)

I can't believe that the upcoming Fenix HL20 isn't getting more attention than a mention in the headlamp contender thread. With Fenix build quality and constant current regulation circuitry, this will likely be a winner if the price is in the <$50 range. It looks like it is designed to compete with ZebraLight, though the design is quite different.

Thanks to Huz and jirik_cz for the link to the HL20 on the Czech site.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. Here's 7k worth.


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## Hack On Wheels (Dec 9, 2009)

That does look pretty good, nice and simple. Could be fairly cost effective and it will hopefully be pretty reliable.

I might be more excited about the headband itself though; I'm going to need to buy one of those for my MC10!


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## davidt1 (Dec 9, 2009)

I would buy it if the head can be attached to the body to turn it into a flashlight. But it does not look like it designed that way. I don't think it was designed to compete with Zebralight because it is way bigger than the H501 and does not look like it can be of much use without the headband.


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## Szemhazai (Dec 9, 2009)

And who will buy that ?? Browning Phantom 70 have less lumens, but is more compact, have diffuser, red led and almost for certain will be much cheaper than HL20


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## davidt1 (Dec 9, 2009)

Although I am not likely to buy it because it was not designed to turn into a flashlight, the design is innovative and should inspire some DIY projects turning clicky flashlights into headlamps. The long separate head assembly should result in some decent throw.


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## Lightcrazycanuck (Dec 9, 2009)

Szemhazai said:


> And who will buy that ?? Browning Phantom 70 have less lumens, but is more compact, have diffuser, red led and almost for certain will be much cheaper than HL20


 
Nice comparison site Szemhazain,

Your right Pics say it all.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

lovecpflovecpflovecpf


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## C-Beam (Dec 9, 2009)

I'd rather just buy the headband and clip an MC10 to it. Much more versatile.


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## MichaelW (Dec 9, 2009)

I am sorry, that doesn't have a neutral-white xp-g.
That is what I need in a general purpose headlight.

It is snowing now, so I need that Rebel PC amber in any form. (headlight, or flashlight in headband)


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## Ace12 (Dec 9, 2009)

I would find it useful if it was floody, but it looks to be a pretty tight beam pattern.


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## Hack On Wheels (Dec 9, 2009)

Ace12 said:


> I would find it useful if it was floody, but it looks to be a pretty tight beam pattern.



I believe that is why it comes with a diffuser, just like the MC10. It's a nice solution, imo. I clips on easily but securely and it gives you a pretty smooth flood, or with a quick flip you have nice throw again.


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## andrew123 (Dec 9, 2009)

After Googling this headlamp I found it sells for about $45. That's pretty reasonable and a better price than the browning headlamp too.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Dec 9, 2009)

Too bad the runtime on low is less than the H501.

BTW: the Browning headlamp looks very similar to the Rayovac 1AA Xtreme.


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## strinq (Dec 10, 2009)

really wonder if they'll sell the headband separately... already have the mc10


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## Linger (Dec 10, 2009)

+1 To Fenix! I approve the design. I like the concept a lot. And I totally agree this will inspire DIY'ers. It's a good step IHMO.
*Szemhazai,* that pic is dishonest. I bought that light for my partner, she thinks it's huge. the image you posted is the profile and hides the huge depth. That light is a big hunk of emitters sitting atop the battery tube.
The Fenix headlamp looks to be more compact, more streamlined and tighter to the head. I like the metal housing, and that they've minimized the distance it protrudes from the wearer.


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## gsxrac (Dec 10, 2009)

Looks very bulky for a headlamp. Also isn't nearly floody enough for most of the activities I use a headlamp for. I could see it being nice for biking but not a whole lot else?


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## bhds (Dec 10, 2009)

"output automatic memory function" :thumbsdow
"the rest parts are made of high quality plastic" :thumbsdow
"flashing mode: SOS(15 hrs)" :thumbsdow and 

I'll stick with my zebralights :nana:


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## jhc37013 (Dec 10, 2009)

gsxrac said:


> Looks very bulky for a headlamp. Also isn't nearly floody enough for most of the activities I use a headlamp for. I could see it being nice for biking but not a whole lot else?



+1

To big for a single AA light I will pass but good to see Fenix in the single AA headlamp category.


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## jirik_cz (Dec 10, 2009)

I think that it might look bigger on the pictures. I would expect the size will be similar to H501 with a reflector sitting on the middle of the body


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## Pavius (Dec 10, 2009)

bhds said:


> I'll stick with my zebralights :nana:



I've seen quite a few posts of ZL owners saying they use a flashlight for throw in parallel to the ZL because it is such a floody light. I am really hoping that the H51 has _some_ throw to it, otherwise it really is a niche headlamp.


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## davidt1 (Dec 10, 2009)

No, it's not the same size as the H501. It is way bigger. Pictures are almost always designed to make things smaller and nicer. The length of the lighting head is 64.3 mm (2.53 inches) long. That's longer than an AA battery. Try putting that in a pocket.


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## davidt1 (Dec 10, 2009)

Pavius said:


> I've seen quite a few posts of ZL owners saying they use a flashlight for throw in parallel to the ZL because it is such a floody light. I am really hoping that the H51 has _some_ throw to it, otherwise it really is a niche headlamp.



For up close use you need a floody beam, and up close, hand free use is the primary reason for using a headlamp. If you need throw, a flashlight is better than a headlamp. Sure a headlamp can be made for throw, but you would be looking at something huge like the Fenix HP10.

I have high hope for the H51 too. It has a reflector so it will have some throw. If the XP-G emitter is used, the hot spot should be huge, making it possible to use it for close up work. I say this because I used my Maratac AAA light for close up work and found it acceptable. The only question is: will it be small enough for pocket EDC?


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## zemmo (Dec 10, 2009)

I am waiting for a headlamp that can use a 18650 or 17670 mounted in the rear for balance, and powering an assembly up front that can throw about the same beam pattern and lumens as my Turbo Quark. Plus it should be good looking and durable. Nothing close to it so far, although it could be done with existing tech, IMO.


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## Hack On Wheels (Dec 10, 2009)

bhds said:


> "the rest parts are made of high quality plastic" :thumbsdow



What's wrong with high quality plastic? The other comments are really personal preference, but I don't see any issue with a good plastic when used appropriately.


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## yowzer (Dec 10, 2009)

Batteryjunction now has a 2AA HP15 listed as 'coming soon', as well as the HP20. No pictures for it, but from the description, it'll have the battery case on the back of the head. Light levels are listed as 5, 50, 115 and 180 lumens.


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## jirik_cz (Dec 10, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> No, it's not the same size as the H501. It is way bigger. Pictures are almost always designed to make things smaller and nicer. The length of the lighting head is 64.3 mm (2.53 inches) long. That's longer than an AA battery. Try putting that in a pocket.



64,3mm is the length of the battery tube, (H501 is 71,2mm).


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## Snow (Dec 10, 2009)

Looks interesting, but I don't see it competing with the Zebralights without a warm emitter and a floody beam. I typically want flood in a headlamp so it doesn't really appeal to me.


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## electrothump (Dec 10, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Too bad the runtime on low is less than the H501.
> 
> BTW: the Browning headlamp looks very similar to the Rayovac 1AA Xtreme.




1+


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## Yucca Patrol (Dec 10, 2009)

zemmo said:


> I am waiting for a headlamp that can use a 18650 or 17670 mounted in the rear for balance, and powering an assembly up front that can throw about the same beam pattern and lumens as my Turbo Quark. Plus it should be good looking and durable. Nothing close to it so far, although it could be done with existing tech, IMO.



Check out the newest versions of the Serv-Light. Koen has created an 18650 battery tube that is essentially a flashlight with the head replaced with a cap and wire. There is a bit of DIY work involved, but perhaps Koen might be willing to assemble something for an additional price. . . .

www.serv-light.com


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## zemmo (Dec 10, 2009)

Yucca Patrol said:


> Check out the newest versions of the Serv-Light. Koen has created an 18650 battery tube that is essentially a flashlight with the head replaced with a cap and wire. There is a bit of DIY work involved, but perhaps Koen might be willing to assemble something for an additional price. . . .
> 
> www.serv-light.com



Interesting. The hardware seems to be there. I'm not enough of an engineer to assemble the bits and pieces into a usable headlamp, but that's the direction that interests me.


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## bhds (Dec 10, 2009)

Hack On Wheels said:


> What's wrong with high quality plastic? The other comments are really personal preference, but I don't see any issue with a good plastic when used appropriately.



Just my personal preference I guess

Seriously though, for approx the same price range I would rather have all aluminum.


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## tedh (Dec 11, 2009)

I've finally come to realize I want BOTH flood and spot in a headlamp. Flood for closeup work (reading a book, untying a knot) and spot for distance needs (looking for something on the other side of camp, finding trail markers). And I want to be able to switch between diffused and undiffused easily (no snap-on pieces). 

I think the slide-across diffuser (Petzl Tikka XP) is a better design, but as long as the Fenix diffuser works reasonably well, the HL20 may be able to give both flood AND spot. Maybe we actually can have both in one package...


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## Swedpat (Dec 11, 2009)

HL20 seems to be another great product by Fenix. 1AA is a nice size and the modes are good in my opinion. I will grab one, it will be a good little brother to HP10. :twothumbs

Regards, Patric


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## gajslk (Dec 12, 2009)

This looks perfect for day hiking, when you need something just in case you get caught out after dark.

I've been waiting for something exactly like this: 1AA, regulated, decent throw, all in one front-mounted casing.

I want AA to be compatible with my GPS, all front mounted for size and weight, throw for route-finding, regulated because I hate unregulated lights. Once an unregulated light dims down, it's worthless for route-finding. So what if it's still good around camp, that doesn't help much if you can't *find* the darn camp. Since I almost never hike on trails, I'm screwed without throw.

Gordon


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## Woods Walker (Dec 13, 2009)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Too bad the runtime on low is less than the H501.


 
I think given the bit higher output the runtime is very good on low. Glad Fenix is going lower with the new stuff. Not sure how big it is as those little plastic heads are hard to judge anything. Will look for the CPF reviews.


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## Ultra-bright (Dec 14, 2009)

I just found out that fenixgear just got these in. Order one today will post more info about it after I received it.


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## Sarratt (Dec 14, 2009)

...... thanks for ordering and I'll be watching for reviews. This could be my most usable light.

My only concern is the (unique) lower placement of the cell chamber (below the light) ... might that not hinder the ratcheting down of the beam ?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 15, 2009)

The price seems right. 

The Fenix HL20 headlamp features a lightweight headband, CREE's *XP-E R2* emitter, and a compact design. The HL20 runs off a single AA battery and puts out up to 105 emitter lumens. Lamp and battery case are in a single integrated unit. Fantastic for camping, hiking, caving and for stowing in your car in case of emergencies. 


LED: Cree *XR-E Q5*
Output: 5 lumens (105 hrs), 4 lm (56hrs),48 lm (5.5hrs), 105 lm (1.8hrs), Strobe, SOS, Flash
Throws beam over 70 meters
Driven by 1pc 1.5V AA batteries
Waterproof to IPX-8 standard
Dimensions: 64.3mm X 50mm X 38.5 mm
Weight: 49.5g
Mattk is that XR-E Q5 a typo?


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## datiLED (Dec 15, 2009)

Has anyone seen the runtime plot for high? 

I would never use an alkaline cell in this headlamp, so I am hoping that the regulation would be fairly flat like most Fenix lights.

I am glad to see that the headlamp comes with a diffuser. That is what finally sold me on the HL20.


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## applevision (Dec 15, 2009)

Hmmm!
Yeah, I'm a Fenix fan but it's just not doing it for me either.

I adore my Zebralights and feel that they are so cute and functional... this light looks a bit clunky (IMHO only) and seems more restricted to headlamp use given the design--not that it is a bad thing! 

I also agree that the beam looks somewhat throwy for a HL, though with sufficient power this can be useful for more difficult terrain...

Hmmm... I love Fenix though and this might be worth a try!


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## andrew123 (Dec 15, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> The price seems right.
> 
> The Fenix HL20 headlamp features a lightweight headband, CREE's *XP-E R2* emitter, and a compact design. The HL20 runs off a single AA battery and puts out up to 105 emitter lumens. Lamp and battery case are in a single integrated unit. Fantastic for camping, hiking, caving and for stowing in your car in case of emergencies.
> 
> ...


Also is that "5 lumens for 105 hours and 4 lumens for 56 hours" a typo?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 15, 2009)

andrew123 said:


> Also is that "5 lumens for 105 hours and 4 lumens for 56 hours" a typo?


 
I think so. 4 lumens for 56 hours is what Fenix has listed and I also like the little XP-E as think it will throw better. I have a ZL for around camp that uses 1XAA. A headlamp with throw is nice for late hikes though the hills this time of year. Often setoff from camp with a headlamp and flashlight. Throw is nice for that. The price is right so maybe I will order it with my gift lights in the morning. It doesn't look much bigger than my EOS.

Edit. Just ordered a HL20 and RayovaC 1xAA from mattk.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Dec 17, 2009)

1AA? That's garbage.


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## davidt1 (Dec 17, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> I think so. 4 lumens for 56 hours is what Fenix has listed and I also like the little XP-E as think it will throw better. I have a ZL for around camp that uses 1XAA. A headlamp with throw is nice for late hikes though the hills this time of year. Often setoff from camp with a headlamp and flashlight. Throw is nice for that. The price is right so maybe I will order it with my gift lights in the morning. It doesn't look much bigger than my EOS.
> 
> Edit. Just ordered a HL20 and RayovaC 1xAA from mattk.



Will be waiting for your impressions. A review by Woods Walker is always an informative and interesting read.


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## I Know Nothing (Dec 17, 2009)

A photo on the following website of it in tilted position which is one thing I was wondering about. Looks like the battery tube just shoves into the clips and rotates around with friction. Which could work really well or else be a bit crap. I like the idea that I can detach it from the strap and use it as a bike light with an easily home made clip mount anyway.

http://hkequipment.net/index.php?sp=&p=6&cat2=28&cat1=6&cat0=1&id=463&cat1=6&cat0=1&new=〈=en

I'd prefer it with another lighting level somewhere between 48 and 4 lumens for hiking with. 48 is more than plenty a lot of the time but I'm not sure 4 would be much use. The 12 lumens on my L2D is usable at the lower end to conserve battery life.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 17, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> 1AA? That's garbage.


 
Why? It has only have one battery to recharge. Don't need to worry about mixed cells. My ZL is nice and they use 1XAA. Same goes for 1XAA flashlights.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Dec 17, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Why? It has only have one battery to recharge. Don't need to worry about mixed cells. My ZL is nice and they use 1XAA. Same goes for 1XAA flashlights.


Not enough voltage and power. If I'm carrying something on my forehead, it better have plenty of juice and horsepower. Otherwise, I'll just stick with my EDC light or any keychain piece of crap light. If I'm using a headlamp, it's because I'm doing something serious and I need serious light.

Based on my experience, a proper headlamp should use at least 3xAAA, 2xAA or 1xCR123. Less than that it means I don't need a headlamp, my EDC covers me.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 17, 2009)

I Know Nothing said:


> A photo on the following website of it in tilted position which is one thing I was wondering about. Looks like the battery tube just shoves into the clips and rotates around with friction. Which could work really well or else be a bit crap. I like the idea that I can detach it from the strap and use it as a bike light with an easily home made clip mount anyway.
> 
> http://hkequipment.net/index.php?sp=&p=6&cat2=28&cat1=6&cat0=1&id=463&cat1=6&cat0=1&new=〈=en
> 
> I'd prefer it with another lighting level somewhere between 48 and 4 lumens for hiking with. 48 is more than plenty a lot of the time but I'm not sure 4 would be much use. The 12 lumens on my L2D is usable at the lower end to conserve battery life.


 

Lighting : 4 lumens (56hrs) > 48 lumens (5.5hrs) > 105 lumens (1.8hrs) 

I was thinking the same thing too. I like the 4-lumen low however seemed like a big jump to 48 but from there to 105 looks fine. I will find out soon enough.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 17, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Not enough voltage and power. If I'm carrying something on my forehead, it better have plenty of juice and horsepower. Otherwise, I'll just stick with my EDC light or any keychain piece of crap light. If I'm using a headlamp, it's because I'm doing something serious and I need serious light.
> 
> Based on my experience, a proper headlamp should use at least 3xAAA, 2xAA or 1xCR123. Less than that it means I don't need a headlamp, my EDC covers me.


 
I often only need 2-10 lumens in camp, 20ish lumens with maybe 50 on the high end on the trail. For the night yak paddle trips I want to light up the world.  Just depends on the need I guess. Do have 3XAAA and 4XAA headlamps also.


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## davidt1 (Dec 17, 2009)

Don't feed the fish.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Dec 17, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Don't feed the troll.


I hope you're not calling me a troll. This kind of accusation is agaisnt CPF's rules.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Dec 17, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> I often only need 2-10 lumens in camp, 20ish lumens with maybe 50 on the high end on the trail. For the night yak paddle trips I want to light up the world.  Just depends on the need I guess. Do have 3XAAA and 4XAA headlamps also.


To each his own. I only use headlights when I'm either caving or diving. And for those activies, 1xAA is downright suicidal. For any other activity I'm ok with the darkness, our great grandfathers camped and hiked all over the country with no lights, I can do the same...

Cheers.


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## Swedpat (Dec 17, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Why? It has only have one battery to recharge. Don't need to worry about mixed cells. My ZL is nice and they use 1XAA. Same goes for 1XAA flashlights.



You are telling one true advantage with a one cell light. You can put in any battery and use if it's not empty. And with such low brightness level as 4lumens it may run for hours with a cheap alkaline which is almost empty, I guess.

Regards, Patric


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## Egsise (Dec 17, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> 1AA? That's garbage.





Outdoors Fanatic said:


> I hope you're not calling me a troll. This kind of accusation is agaisnt CPF's rules.





Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Based on my experience, a proper headlamp should use at least 3xAAA, 2xAA or 1xCR123. Less than that it means I don't need a headlamp, my EDC covers me.



:hahaha:3xAAA


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## davidt1 (Dec 17, 2009)

davidt1 said:


> Don't feed the fish.



In the interest of harmony and stuff like that, I edited my statement.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 17, 2009)

Swedpat said:


> You are telling one true advantage with a one cell light. You can put in any battery and use if it's not empty. And with such low brightness level as 4lumens it may run for hours with a cheap alkaline which is almost empty, I guess.
> 
> Regards, Patric


 
I like to hang around camp and do stuff hands free at night. The 48 lumens on medium is a bunch of light for the dark dank woods hiking into camp. It's dark in those hemlocks. 105 is almost too much but will be great for finding those pesky trail markers. Heck I can hike just fine with my EOSr on its 24 lumen med.

Also as stated kinda like one battery systems. Granted a CR123 has more output and got those too but like LSD NiMH. I hope this light is easy to change modes with my gloves. Thinking about the 2xAA or 4xAA Fenix headlamps for those times when I want more for longer. It's all good.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Dec 18, 2009)

Egsise said:


> :hahaha:3xAAA


Princeton Tec, Black Diamond and Petzl are the living proof that 3xAAA is a decent battery setup for headlights. And mountain climbers, divers, enthusiast hikers, spelunkers and serious outdoors men swear by these brands. I prefer 2xCR123 myself (Apex Pro), but I'd choose my 3xAAA PT EOS Rebel over any 1xAA headlamp available. And for a good reason.

I wonder why not many major headlight manufacturers--if any, offer 1xAA headlights... Make you should laugh at them too?


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## Egsise (Dec 18, 2009)

Well for 1xAA u said...


Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Not enough voltage and power. If I'm carrying something on my forehead, it better have plenty of juice and horsepower.





Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Princeton Tec, Black Diamond and Petzl are the living proof that 3xAAA is a decent battery setup for headlights. And mountain climbers, divers, enthusiast hikers, spelunkers and serious outdoors men swear by these brands. I prefer 2xCR123 myself (Apex Pro), but I'd choose my 3xAAA PT EOS Rebel over any 1xAA headlamp available. And for a good reason.
> 
> I wonder why not many major headlight manufacturers--if any, offer 1xAA headlights... Make you should laugh at them too?



3xAAA or 1xAA, same amount of energy!


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## datiLED (Dec 18, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> I wonder why not many major headlight manufacturers--if any, offer 1xAA headlights...


 
Driving an LED at 4.5V with 3xAAA cells (Buck) is easier to accomplish than boosting the voltage from 1.2V (1.5V nominal). The circuit required to drive an LED at a constant current from a single AA cell is much more complex than a buck circuit that regulates the voltage and current. A buck/boost board is even more complex if done well. 

Petzl lights use a linear regulator, which is basically a smart resistor. The Princeton Tec lights use a buck circuit. Once the battery voltage drops below the LED voltage (+ the regulator dropout voltage), it falls out of regulation and into direct drive. This feature is important to cavers, and people who depend on their lights with their lives. In this respect, I agree that the 1AA is not an ideal headlamp for _your personal_ _application_. However, I like the 1AA format, and will not mind carrying a spare, or two with me. But, I am not a caver. My mindset would most certainly be different if I was. Besides, I would build my own headlamps if caving was my thing.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 18, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Princeton Tec, Black Diamond and Petzl are the living proof that 3xAAA is a decent battery setup for headlights. And mountain climbers, divers, enthusiast hikers, spelunkers and serious outdoors men swear by these brands. I prefer 2xCR123 myself (Apex Pro), but I'd choose my 3xAAA PT EOS Rebel over any 1xAA headlamp available. And for a good reason.


 
The Rebel EOS rocks no question about that. Still I am a serious outdoors man. Well sorta I guess.


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## moonfish (Dec 20, 2009)

Man, this thread is* mangled.*

I don't understand how these things get so far off topic, especially when people just chime in that they have no interest in the product? Why? It's a huge threadcrap and a waste of everyone's time. 

About the actual light, is the beam really as narrow as it looks?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 20, 2009)

moonfish said:


> About the actual light, is the beam really as narrow as it looks?


 
I think they are going to be sent out soon so will get back to you on that. I am looking for throw but hope there is enough flood too.


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## Cemoi (Dec 21, 2009)

I Know Nothing said:


> http://hkequipment.net/index.php?sp=&p=6&cat2=28&cat1=6&cat0=1&id=463&cat1=6&cat0=1&new=〈=en


Extract: "_Please do not disassemble the sealed part in the head of the flashlight by yourself_"

Not good for future LED upgrades


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## Woods Walker (Dec 21, 2009)

Cemoi said:


> "_Please do not disassemble the sealed part in the head of the flashlight by yourself_"
> 
> Not good for future LED upgrades


 
I think that statement is standard but got no clue on mods as never did one.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 23, 2009)

Ok I got mine. Even used it to hunt out a Holiday tree in the woods. Here are a few initial impressions but would need a little more field time under my belt.

The headlamps isn't ZL light small, I would say about the same size or as the Rayovac 1XAA but don’t know for certain as got one for someone as a gift so can’t open the package. Guessing it has a smaller volume than the EOS but pre my digital scale the same weight when both have batteries but hard to judge. If there are any headlamps that people would like me to take photos to compare just ask. On the positive side it did just what I expected. So I will do a fast pro and cons then maybe work up a review or at the least post some photos of anything anybody wants to see in a few days.

Pros:

It’s very bright. I know sometimes it can be easy to become jaded to bright lights on CPF but if someone told me 5-years ago 1XAA LED Headlamp would put this much light for the length of time listed I would call them crazy. The beam has all the goodness of the XP-E. It is nearly the same beam as the iTP EOS 1XAAA in many respects. A tight hot spot with wider spill, a bit like an my L2D-Q5 but thinking there is a bit more spill and being an XP-E flawless against the white wall not this matters as never cared about Cree rings or whatever they are called. Worked good in the woods during my little hike to get a tree. Darn it’s bright, did I already say that? The tint was good. It’s maybe a little bit warmer than the iTP which is my only other XP-E light but you wouldn’t know this unless both are side by side. The kind of cool tint that isn’t angry blue or squid **** green, so happy about that however tint is in the eye of the beholder. It uses 1XAA battery and despite the informative debate we had this is what I was looking for during a late dayhike or going into camp behind schedule. The clicky felt good. Maybe a little stiff but smooth and for a headlamp this is a good thing. Fenix has finally got a real low level in a light. I believe it’s the same low that is now used in the LD01 XP-E R2 but don’t know as this is speculation based on reports in CPF. It’s 4 lumens and no more. Heck could even be 3ish but darn if my eyes could tell. The SOS /flashing/disco junk needs 2x fast clicks so is out of the way. It can be moved easily to other headbands and comes with an upper attachment point for bands with a top strap. Can be locked out and this is a good thing.

Cons:

Not sure about the UI. Now the memory function is nice but there are a few issues which are not show stoppers however think people should know about. First the jump from 3-4 to 48 is a BIG move that makes me think it’s 105. I wish there was a 20-25 lumen setting. If you press the clicky fast the light goes out. This is good but you must hold the clicky for a second to move to the next level. So it slows the UI down. Also the light goes out when clicked at first then after the second is up turns on to the new levels. These levels are far apart at 4-48-105 so having the light go out when moving a level works against my night vision. The bend in the back of the strap holder could have been done a little better in my view. My EOS is a bit more comfortable as it conforms to my forehead better. I wish there was more another few inches on the headband to fit over a hat though it does fit my head when maxed out and if it fits me then should be fine for everyone. Not sure about the diffuser. It works but there is some glare off the light and question how long it would last in my pack. Going to keep it on for now. Also the instructions say nothing about Lithium primaries so will have to ask around about that. The clicky sticks out a bit so could turn on inside the back. I would lock it out.

That’s about it for now.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 23, 2009)

Toss on an older PT headband now as noticed the Fenix can also slip. Seems Fenix needs to work on these bands I think. Wonder if the HP10 has the same slip issue. Darn I got a big head. Shoot even my older older Aurora headband is on the last adjustment.


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## Pavius (Dec 23, 2009)

Thanks for the review. Is there any chance you can shoot some beamshots comparing it to the PT EOS (3xAAA)? More interested to compare their floody-ness; i'm sure the HL20 can throw well.


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## Swedpat (Dec 23, 2009)

Thanks *Woods Walker* for sharing your impression of this highly interesting headlight!
I think I agree with you about the choice of brightness modes. It's a very big step from low to mid and then the step to high will not be perceived as very big I guess. In my opinion the mid mode should be 25-30lm instead of 48, close to your desire.

Regards, Patric


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## datiLED (Dec 23, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Ok I got mine. Even used it to hunt out a Holiday tree in the woods. Here are a few initial impressions but would need a little more field time under my belt.


 
You have your HL20 already??? Battery Junction maust have not had a problem getting them in. I placed my order at 4Sevens.com, and they are still on backorder waiting for release from customs. Bummer. 

Edit: 12/23, 4:00pm, I just got a shipping notice from 4Sevens. My HL20 is on it's way. The down side is that it is being shipped to my office, and will be sitting in the mail box until I get back to work on Monday. Bummer.  If I would have know the headlamps were shipping, I could have had it rerouted to my house. Maybe my replacement PT APEX will show up over the weekend to cheer me up.


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## KarstGhost (Dec 23, 2009)

I like the looks of this one. I already have an HP10 for caving and am very pleased with it. Might buy one of these for my dad for when he feels like caving with me, since it's very reasonably priced. Would be better for running than the HP10 because there's no battery pack in the back to smack your head.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 23, 2009)

No photos yet and my camera is DOA but getting another one for the holiday. I put the HP20 on my Nitecore headband and feeling the love. The fenix headband was not doing it and even the PT band was lacking a bit. Plus one to fenix for adding the top strap holder. But wish it came with a better headband for my head in the first place. With the Nitecore headband it seems more confortable for me and worked with a winter hat over as the light remained in place 100%. I tested it out with AA Energizer Lithium primary and seems 100% good. All modes L-M-H are there to my eye. Good as the cold killed my NiMH within an hour. 

With the Nitecore headband and the fact it can near as I could tell use Lithium primary batteries and not drop the lower modes like my L2D-Q5 if memory is correct I am now happy. Also if the headlamp fails in the field I could put a 1xAA or CR123 flashlight in the band so I wouldn't need to pack it seperate. Anytime I can drop something from the pack it's a good thing. Still not sure why the single band even the bit larger one salvaged from a PT headlamps wasn't working for me. Also this wouldn't replace the pure in-camp joy of a ZL.

Pavius

Once I get the new camera will try to see how it does for out door beam shots as white walls are worthless. It is like a floody flashlight without diffuser. Maybe a LOD beam or EX10, something like that. A bit more than a LD20/L2D-Q5 but not much. More flood than an Olight T15/T10.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 23, 2009)

KarstGhost said:


> I like the looks of this one. I already have an HP10 for caving and am very pleased with it. Might buy one of these for my dad for when he feels like caving with me, since it's very reasonably priced. Would be better for running than the HP10 because there's no battery pack in the back to smack your head.


 
If you are going to run maybe put the HP20 on the HP10 headband.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 24, 2009)

I knew there was a reason I purchased the Nitecore headband with the HL20 headlight. Thanks for the idea, Woods Walker. Would it look too goofy to have four lights on the headband lit up at once? Seems like a cheap way to get the brightness of the Petzl Ultra or brighter without the cost. At the very least, it's a great setup for spelunkers. Gives a backup headlight option when all you have is a spare flashlight while out in the woods.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 24, 2009)

I tried with one extra flashlight on the top loops and it had to be adjusted up as not to shine on the HP20 and cast a shadow. Lights on the side would glare too much for me. Just going to use it for the headlamp strap and backup flashlight/headlamp. Think I might need to buy another one for the BOB as the HP20 now owns it.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 24, 2009)

Just got my HL20. I couldn't figure out how the headband was supposed to work so I ended up using my new Nitecore headband. That Nitecore headband is a little tight on my head maxed out and rides high as they didn't use a long enough strap for the top strap. At first, I thought I got a defective headlight as it only turned on on high. Then I read the instructions, and apparently, you have to turn the light on, and then hold down the button a couple seconds and release for each change of brightness setting. I think this will take some getting used to as I'm used to a PT EOS that changes settings in an instant. Instructions for battery installation weren't very user friendly using terms like anode instead of the + side of the battery, and if I'm not mistaken, telling the user to put the battery in backwards. Battery goes in - end first, not anode (+) side first. I think the weakest point of the light is the battery cap which is made of plastic and has nothing to hold it to the light when changing the batteries. Don't lose this piece in the dark. It's very easy to set it down to change the batteries, lose it (it is black), not be able to turn the light on to find it, and accidentally step on it and break it. I think it would be wise to put some sort of glow in the dark sticker or paint, or a reflector on this piece to make it more visible in case you lose it. 

Now for the positives. It's bright. It's lightweight. Runs on cheap, easy to find AAs. It has the advantages of Petzl's best lights with the flip up diffuser for spot and flood. It is current regulated so no flickering. It's rated waterproof enough. You don't have to choose between better plastics of Petzl lights or regulation and waterproofness of Princeton Tec's lights. You get it all and more.

Overall, I like it. It could be improved with some sort of restraining strap to avoid losing the tailcap. They could make their instruction manual more clear. They could supply an easier to figure out headband. They could use another setting in the 20-30 lumen range. They could use a faster U.I. For lightweight headlights, I'd say this one goes about 10 steps forward on improvements and one step back.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 24, 2009)

Yea the UI messed with me too but got used to it. Still like the PT UI better. Took it out again for a hike. Darn bright. the Nitecore headband fits me when the buckles touch but you can pull on the band and get the buckle to overlap and give another 1/4 inch or so and this might help you. Do the same with the top strap if you have issues. I like it a bit higher so have maybe 1/2 inch of adjustment left. I wish they would make all of these bands bigger as the fenix is the same way; heck even PT bands have been getting smaller over the years. My first PT had 5 extra inches of play and now they offer maybe 2. Would pay the extra 50 cents for a bit more material. There was nothing beyond knowing the negative goes against a spring most of the time that would tell the user how to put in that battery. I sure didn't understand what they are saying. Like the ZL you must keep an eye on the tail cap. I gave up on the Fenix headband as it didn't work with a hat over it nor was comfortable for me. I like the reflective strap on the back of the Nitecore band as sometimes take short cuts off the AT when heading back using the roads with the GPS. So the more stuff that shines back the better.


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## diamondback (Dec 25, 2009)

I have a question for the people who already have the light, is it a floody light? beamshots would be nice too


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 25, 2009)

diamondback said:


> I have a question for the people who already have the light, is it a floody light? beamshots would be nice too



It has a decent sized hotspot with pretty even spill light surrounding it in the rest of the beam. If you want all flood, that's what the included flip up diffuser is for. Hotspot is still visible with the diffuser on, but it does spread much more light into the floody part of the beam.


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## Pavius (Dec 25, 2009)

Sounds like a mixed bag to me. Mostly good, but the UI and headband issues prevent it from becoming an automatic buy - though it does seem to be a nextgen headband relative to the pt eos and petzels. I'll wait for the H51 and see what it has to offer in the throw department. 

Would be happy to hear more testaments regarding the headband (is this subjective or outright an uncomfortable headband) and outdoor beamshots.


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## half-watt (Dec 26, 2009)

*First Impressions: Fenix HL20*

just arrived during broad daylight.

looks to be a very nice HL. overall, after playing with it in a dark basement, i'm favorably disposed towards it. The diffuser is very nice and, perhaps requisite since Petzl starting including them on the TikkaXP and MyoXP HLs 2-3 yrs ago. I see the diffuser's outdoor use as being restricted primarily (almost exclusively as far as my personal uses are concerned) to the 4lm LOW output level for use as task/proximity lighting. The diffuser won't find much use by me outdoors on the MED and HIGH o.p. levels. Indoors on MEDIUM, i can envision using the diffuser in a large dark attic or basement when 4lm of light o.p. does not suffice for the task at hand.

I'm not too keen on "memory" in a HL, preferring it to always come on at its lowest level first to attempt to preserve as much dark adaptation as possible.

My first real "crab" is, what is to me a quirky UI - similar to the TK40. Why do i have to (or even want to) press and hold to change light levels? This is something which i may want to do quite rapidly. This UI does not seem optimal to me. 

The manner of operation of turning the HL20 OFF and changing light levels ought to be reversed IMO. 

Please, let me press-and-hold to turn the light off ('a la the PTec Apex for instance), but please allow me to rapidly change light levels (even cycle through them over-and-over again) with quick press-and-release actions.

Given a choice b/t the existing UI and my suggested UI, i would only pick the current Fenix UI if i was bad and wanted to punish myself.

My other initial "crab", which admittedly is *NOT* based upon real outdoors usage, is the middle level of 48lm. This seems to be too high to me (even if OTF is only, let's say 70% of what Fenix claims). My personal choice is to be able to spot low-contrast, faded blazes on tree trunks and rocks which mark turns/bends in an unfamiliar trail from a distance of ~30'/9-10m. Even with my age degraded (it's down-hill to 100 for me) low-light vision, 25lm seems to work fine in a properly designed HL which does not focus light as tightly as a typical hand-held FL. For some smooth reflectored lights, even 15lm has worked 'ok' for me. Now, if it's a major flood o.p., then, 'yes', i would agree that ~50lm of light o.p. is req'd for my personal standard/requirement. I will have to wait until nightfall to more definitively determine the necessity of a 48lm MED level in this particular HL. However, i'm suspecting that it is perhaps close to twice what i will actually require for my purposes.

So, certainly 48lm will be usable in this aforementioned regard. However, that usability comes at the expense of burntime. Personally, i would prefer, both in HLs and most FLs to have an 8-to-12 hr burntime at the MEDIUM level of light output. If i hike all night, i don't want to have to change cells in any light. 

Better yet, would have been to have four levels of light o.p., by adding a 25lm level to the existing three levels.

My two shekels.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 26, 2009)

*Re: First Impressions: Fenix HL20*



half-watt said:


> So, certainly 48lm will be usable in this aforementioned regard. However, that usability comes at the expense of burntime. Personally, i would prefer, both in HLs and most FLs to have an 8-to-12 hr burntime at the MEDIUM level of light output. If i hike all night, i don't want to have to change cells in any light.



I agree. I like having a usable medium that will run all night as well. However, if this light actually gets 5.5 hours on medium on alkalines, it should get somewhere in your 8-12 hour range on a lithium battery, and it will do it at 1/3 the cost of 3AAA headlights like my PT EOS headlight. I think the runtimes may be just about right for my uses. I'd guess it would get 3 or 4 hours on medium on an Eneloop which is just right for my local night hikes, as well as my average use on a night while backpacking. I got a solar battery charger so I can now charge the battery up the next day in the field. 8 to 12 hours on a lithium should be adequate for ultralite backpacking on medium. Of course, this is all speculation until someone does some runtime tests.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 26, 2009)

It seem like the lumen rates are kinda right on. Darn bright headlamp. Also it doesn't cut off when the batery is low just gets dim to the lower level. I changed the battery as didn't want to over discharge my NiMH so don't know how long this lasts. The single AA was easy to change in the woods. Anyways the 48 lumen medium does light up the woods more than a medium mode needs. Wish the headband fit me better so I wouldn't have to rob one from an older PT Aurora or use the Nitecore and like others think the UI isn't the best but kinda happy with it just the same. Not too many 1XAA XP-E R2 headlamps with good throw around. Also like the low so thinking this is a win.


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## Hooked on Fenix (Dec 27, 2009)

Just did the runtime test on high. Got 1 hour 43 minutes on a freshly charged Eneloop before it stepped down to medium. The step down to medium was a good indicator to change the battery. This gives a useful warning for changing the batteries without instantly leaving you in the dark. However, I have no intention of ruining a rechargeable to see how long it will stay on at reduced brightness. This isn't that bad of a runtime for a rechargeable as the 1.8 hours advertised for an alkaline is only 5 more minutes. I did the math and this light should yield a runtime on medium with an Eneloop of no less than 3 hours 45 minutes (probably/possibly longer as running the light at a lower level allows the l.e.d. to run more efficiently and there's less resistance from the battery). I'll have to test this thing on medium next on another day.


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## datiLED (Dec 28, 2009)

I finally have the HL20 in my hands (and on my head). I came back to work this morning, and retrieved my HL20 from the mail box, where it had been sitting all weekend. I had considered making the commute to get the headlamp from the office, but sanity prevailed.






The headlamp was a little smaller than I expected (which is a good thing), and was packed in a plastic shell that is as tough as nails. It was difficult to open even with sharp scissors, but my effort was rewarded with a nifty little headlamp. (In hindsight, I should have used a razor knife.)





This is everything that is inside the package. Notice the lack of battery. It is a good thing that I keep a stash of cells in my desk drawer. But what happened to that Energizer lithium cell???





The battery is inserted with the tail into the headlamp. There is reverse polarity protection provided by the plastic nubs on the tailcap. The headlamp was tested at the factory, as evidenced by the circular mark in the battery cap. The alkaline is all that I had on hand at the office. I need to test this light with a lithium primary cell, as that is what I plan on using exclusively. My initial impression of the headlamp is very positive. The battery gives a good perspective on just how small this headlamp really is.





Another shot of the endcap. The polarity protection "nubs" are more visible, as are the contact areas for the positive battery connection to the sleeve inside the plastic body. You can also see the diffuser, and how it attaches to the headlamp. The raised inner rim of the diffuser slides into the gap at the end of the headlamp. The plastic feels very hard, and I get the impression that the diffuser may break at some point when installing, or removing it. 





The diffuser in place. The diffused beam still has a noticeable hotspot, but the floodiness is increased considerably. I can see myself using the diffuser often. I would have liked for it to be even more diffused than it is.





The diffuser in the "up" position. 





Side view.





A shot of the perfectly focused and centered XP-G LED. The beam is a white wall hunter's dream. To my eyes, the tint is pure white, leaning ever so slightly toward neutral. There is no tint variation in the beam at all. I have not tested the light for throw (against my shed, from standing in the driveway), but will check it out this evening. It did well in the controlled environment of a dark office. 





As I said, this is a small headlamp. Obviously not Zebralight small, but considerably smaller than the likes of the Princeton Tec EOS. I can say without hesitation, that the HL20 will be my go-to headlamp, and the (Seoul modded) PT EOS will be getting a lot less love. Will I be selling the EOS now that the HL20 is in town? Well... maybe. :laughing:





The UI takes some getting used to, but is actually starting to grow on me in the short time that I have used it. This UI will eliminate accidental level changes, because you have to _want_ to change the level to make it happen. The last level memory is good, though I could handle it starting on low, and going up one level with each click. But, this is the UI that Fenix chose for this light, and I can live with it.

What is my overall impression of the HL20? I would have to say that it is a winner. It is comfortable to wear, the beam is excellent and the pivot feels solid. Contrary to earlier posts, I actually like the headband. I do have the headband nearly maxed out for size, though. I am not a fan of the top strap on headlamps, and that is the primary reason that I rarely use my PT APEX. 


I am glad that I took a chance on buying this headlamp. If it performs as well as I expect on an Energizer lithium cell, it will make me consider retiring, or selling my EOS. (That is a huge compliment.) I have owned a lot of headlamps over the past 3+ years, and have not found a suitable replacement for the Seoul modded EOS headlamps. They have always been my go-to headlamp due to their performance and size. IMHO, the Fenix HL20 has the modded EOS beat on both accounts.


Pros:

Small and lightweight (especially with lithium primary cell).
Solid feel and good range of tilt. The plastic body is a non-issue IMHO.
Well regulated, with good runtime from a single cell. With a spare in my pocket, I would go anywhere with this headlamp. But I am not a caver, so I can't comment from that viewpoint.
Flawless beam, perfectly centered emitter. No artifacts, or rings from the XP-G R2 LED. The tint is excellent on my headlamp. It is a clean white, leaning very slightly toward neutral.
Excellent throw, nice side spill.
UI is great for headlamp use. (This took a while for me to like. The switching avoids level jumping.)
Cons:

Medium and high levels are too close together. There could be a lower medium, or add a 4th level between low and the existing medium.
Small headband, of average quality. Could use some improvement.
The included diffuser doesn't work as well as I had hoped. The beam is not diffused enough, and there is some spill of light back into the eyes.
Diffuser doesn't fit the light as well as I would have expected, and will likely break while in the up position if bumped into anything. I would have preferred that it slip onto the head like the AD401, not clip onto the head. This would allow the diffuser to flip downward onto the battery tube, not upward.



tedh said:


> One thing I have noticed is my diffuser seems to stick on something, and doesn't sit flush against the aluminum bezel n the down position. Anyone else have this problem? It's probably just a case of shaving some plastic away in the right spot.


 Mine has the same problem. It is one of the items on my con list.


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## half-watt (Dec 28, 2009)

*Re: First Impressions: Fenix HL20*



Hooked on Fenix said:


> ...However, if this light actually gets 5.5 hours on medium on alkalines, it should get somewhere in your 8-12 hour range on a lithium battery, and it will do it at 1/3 the cost of 3AAA headlights like my PT EOS headlight...




Great observation. Many thanks for sharing it.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 28, 2009)

Looks like my 1000th post. Cool, anyways it is so easy to change out the single battery in the field so give the long run time on med I agree that an overnight hike is workable.


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## tedh (Dec 29, 2009)

Got mine a few days ago. I had been waiting with much anticipation. The combination of 1xAA, regulated output, throw when I needed it, but a diffuse beam when I didn't, all made for a near-perfect product. On paper, at least. 

I have to admit, I was a little disappointed when I finally got the light. I really wanted to like this thing, but:

1. The strap wasn't that well thought out. If you're going to use molded-on hardware, design it to lie flush against my head. Petzl figured this out years ago. Otherwise, just make the band like Zebralight, with one simple buckle. The Fenix approach seems to use the worst qualities of both. 

Of course, it's easy enough to fix this problem by "borrowing" a strap from another headlamp or sewing my own. 

2. Where's my medium level? The practical difference between 50 and 100 lumens, in use on the trails where I run, is irrelevant. As noted by others, the middle level should have been more like 30. Effectively, the light only has two different levels. 

3. The diffuser works too well out the side. When flipped down over the lamp, the diffuser throws an annoying amount of light off the edges of the plastic, right into my eyes. I can probably fix this with paint. Or even a sharpie. 

4. The diffuser doesn't work well enough out the front. I was expecting, and my Zebralight H501 has certainly spoiled me here, a uniform circle of light with the diffuser in place. Instead the hot spot is still visible, and the rest of the beam is a bit patchy. Perhaps the mild hot spot is there by design. Interestingly, the accessory diffuser Fenix sells for its handheld lights (the AD 401 flipdown style) does a better job of diffusing the beam than the one that comes with the HL20. However, I tried the diffuser from a Tikka XP, and it was by far the best, with no hot spot and a lovely uniform illumination field. 

I can imagine another mod to get the diffusion I want, shouldn't be too tough. 

So, I was prepared to continue waiting for my perfect headlamp. And then I went out for a trail run last night, and I remembered that picking apart a design at the kitchen table is no substitute for actually going out in the field and trying out a new tool. 

I was pleasantly surprised. The 50 lumen medium is just about the right amount of light for moving around at night. 30 lumens would have left me squinting down the trail to make out rocks and roots. If the light only had 4, 30, and 100 lumens, I would have been forced to use 100, and waste battery life with unneeded light. The beam pattern had enough spread to forgo using the diffuser, so that was a non-issue. I hand-carried the headlamp to create shadows, so I can't speak to the strap.

All in all, I think it's a keeper. Not quite perfect, but a good headlamp. As I was tallying up the pluses and minuses, I realized it was considerably cheaper than a lot of the mainstream headlamps out there, and compared favorably to many of them. 

One thing I have noticed is my diffuser seems to stick on something, and doesn't sit flush against the aluminum bezel n the down position. Anyone else have this problem? It's probably just a case of shaving some plastic away in the right spot. 

Ted


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## vali (Dec 29, 2009)

Woods Walker said:


> Looks like my 1000th post.





(and sorry for the OT)


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## Woods Walker (Dec 29, 2009)

tedh said:


> 1. The strap wasn't that well thought out. If you're going to use molded-on hardware, design it to lie flush against my head. Petzl figured this out years ago. Otherwise, just make the band like Zebralight, with one simple buckle. The Fenix approach seems to use the worst qualities of both.
> 
> Ted


 

Yup Fenix should purchased a PT or Petzl to see how to make a headband. Still like the headlamp as use another band for it. Darn bright.

Edit.

Make certain to lock this headlamp out as it was on for a second time in my daypack. I often test this in the field at first and like the ZL it will turn on but can be locked out.


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## Woods Walker (Jan 2, 2010)

Ok took it out for my last hike/camping trip as didn't have a true overnight field test. The PT headband worked better for me than the Fenix so now happy with the comfort factor. Hiked into the woods and setup camp in the snow. The low was good for camp work and the medium was more than enough for off trail. Here is a beam shot on high.







Good throw.


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## Barrie (Jan 8, 2010)

any one tried it on a 14500 :thinking:


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## datiLED (Jan 8, 2010)

Barrie said:


> any one tried it on a 14500 :thinking:


 
No, it does not support 3.7V input. 1.5V only.

I am using an Energizer Lithium primary cell, and it is excellent on all accounts. I will try it with a NiMH cell once the Energizer is dead. It could take a little while, since I rarely use the high level.


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## Barrie (Jan 9, 2010)

is it comparable to the LD10 on max any one got both to compare


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## I Know Nothing (Jan 26, 2010)

Got myself one of these. Some thoughts....

Uses... as most people seem to agree it's crying out for another output level between its 4 and 48 lumens but I've tried it out a bit and am reasonably happy with how useful the 4 lumen mode actually is for hiking with. It shines out (albeit not very brightly) to about 8 to 10 metres and works ok for picking out a sketchy dirt trail through the undergrowth, showing up rocks, holes, picking your way over fallen trees and down rocky steps etc when ambient light isn't quite enough. Being able to use it like that a lot of the time greatly increases its usefulness as a backpacking light where battery life is an important consideration in the shorter days of the year. The 48 lumen level works well for running with and for mountain biking I mostly use the 105 high mode.

Beam... my particular sample errs on the green side but not to any offputting degree and I'm not sure whether that doesn't actually work in its favour for outdoor use. Compared to my L2D which has similar medium and high output levels the XPE in the HL20 gives a noticeably smoother beam. The spill area is a bit larger and a little dimmer. You'd have to have better eyes than me to pick out any differences in ultimate throw. The diffuser works very well. Maybe too well, it actually throws out some light behind you. Some people complained of glare and poor fitting. I don't get either. Certainly looks a little fragile though. The pop on pop off one I made for my L2D doesn't fit. But I think that would leave it with a little more throw so may try to make one for it and see how it looks.

Runtimes... 1.6 hrs on high and 4.8 hrs on medium with both 2700mAH GP and 2300mAH Uniross but I've no idea what their true capacity is. The Uniross are quite old and I'm not sure the GP ones are very good from the voltage readngs so I don't think Fenix's stated run times are totally unachievable. Output drops to low when batteries are getting to the end.

Size... weighs 97g all up with a NiMH battery on my kitchen scales. Simillar weight and size to several Petzl models but it's more angular so doesn't shove in a tight pocket so easily. Quite unobtrusive on the head or left dangling from your neck say.

User interface... The switch feels nice, positive but fairly soft, ok to operate with gloves and freezing fingers. And I like the memory so that you can just use it as a simple click on click off in your selected output level without the cycling through. Click and hold for a second to change levels soon becomes intuitive and quick particularly if you're carrying the light in your hand as I do a lot of the time for better shadow definition because your finger naturally sits on the switch. I prefer this to Fenix's soft tap system. Good that there's no flashy modes to get in the way too.. it's there but only activated with a double click. Switch could turn on accidentally in your pack but it locks out. Battery changing with the single AA is a doddle. I did it first time with my eyes shut in a few seconds. Screw cap is smooth and positive. With my old Petzl 3AAA it was a case of first work out which way to put the batteries then push the last one in and the other 2 usually popped out.

Headband... This has come in for some criticism but works fine for me. Not sure why they needed quite such a big backing plate to slap on your forehead but it's not uncomfortable. I've used the HL20 on my head for both running and biking and it's solid and unobtrusive. The headband doesn't come properly assembled and you need to double the loose end back on itself before connecting it to the rest of the band. Done like that it won't slip at all even trying to pull it pretty hard. Max headband circumference on mine is 57cm and fits over a hat for my size head. The ratchet system to adjust the angle looks pretty cheap and badly designed. The C shaped prongs that the light fits in don't look very strong and it's hard to get in and out but then I'm not sure why I'd want to take it out or why they made it like this. I guess they want to market the headband separately to use with the MC10 angle light. Infact the bottom edge of the light head on mine was catching on the backing plate part way through it's range making it difficult to set at that position. Not good quality control but rather than sending it back I fixed the problem by melting a dent in the plate with a soldering iron and it now rotates properly.

Bottom line... If you need hands free lighting for outdoor activities a forehead mounted head torch is the best option. The HL20 is small, comfortable and throws out an impressive amount of light in a nice beam. There aren't exactly many options for a fully regulated, 100 lumen, sub 100g AA powered headtorch with both throw and flood that I'm aware of. It's only real drawback is lack of a 15 to 25 lumen level.


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## Buck91 (Jan 26, 2010)

Wow, great review Nothing! I've been waiting for some more feedback on this beast... Unfortunately it has just further reinforced my concerns with the mounting arms 

Can you comment on the waterproofness at all?


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## I Know Nothing (Jan 26, 2010)

Buck91 said:


> Wow, great review Nothing! I've been waiting for some more feedback on this beast... Unfortunately it has just further reinforced my concerns with the mounting arms
> 
> Can you comment on the waterproofness at all?



The only time the mounting arms might break would be taking the light out or putting it back in them. They shouldn't be vulnerable in normal use. There's a bit of flexibility in the plastic so I don't think they'd break if you dropped it.

Yep, it's waterproof. Just dunked it in the sink and operated it underwater for a few minutes.


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## Beacon of Light (Jan 27, 2010)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> Too bad the runtime on low is less than the H501.



Yeah the less than stellar run-time and extra bulkiness over the zebralight will make me move on with a nothing to see here attitude.


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## Egsise (Feb 22, 2010)

Barrie said:


> is it comparable to the LD10 on max any one got both to compare


LD10 low 10lm, med 40lm, high 79lm, turbo 106lm
HL20 low 3.5lm, med 46lm, high 100lm

OTF lumen guessimates based on my lightbox readings.
Medium mode runtime with Eneloop was 265 minutes.


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## waddup (Mar 7, 2010)

moonfish said:


> It's a huge threadcrap and a waste of everyone's time.



i like to hear both sides...every side.

ive learned something reading this thread, that i wouldnt have learned unless everyone was free to express an opinion.

freedom of speech rocks


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## Mr Floppy (Mar 17, 2010)

I Know Nothing said:


> The only time the mounting arms might break would be taking the light out or putting it back in them. They shouldn't be vulnerable in normal use. There's a bit of flexibility in the plastic so I don't think they'd break if you dropped it.



Well, a mounting arm broke for me. I'll be contacting fenix for a replacement plate. I may not use it though. Its not a great design. My mistake was that I tried to put the MC-10 in it like in the promotional picture. Well for anyone else thinking of doing the same, DON'T DO IT!! 

Anyway, I've stuck the arm back on with some hot glue and it seems ok. Infact, I put it back without the arm first and it seems that one arm will hold the light securely but what I might do is leave that arm off and use a strip of rubber. Atleast I can use a MC-10 in it. 

Not happy about this but its a great light.


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## Egsise (Mar 17, 2010)

I was worried about the mounting arms too, so I tossed the HL20 around at room temp, several drops from 2-3 feet with the diffuser.
Nothing broke but I need to test it at cold temp too to make sure it does not brake when i'm outdoors with it.


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## Woods Walker (Mar 17, 2010)

Egsise said:


> I was worried about the mounting arms too, so I tossed the HL20 around at room temp, several drops from 2-3 feet with the diffuser.
> Nothing broke but I need to test it at cold temp too to make sure it does not brake when i'm outdoors with it.


I used the HL20 at -8F this winter and it held up just fine but never dropped it. Guessing the MC10 thing is a no go given what Mr Floppy posted.


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## fixitman (May 20, 2010)

can the diffuser be mounted so that it flips to the side or underneath?
I am looking for a headlamp that will be mounted to my hard hat at work. If the diffuser sticks up, it will likely get snagged on machinery and snapped off.


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## Woods Walker (May 20, 2010)

fixitman said:


> can the diffuser be mounted so that it flips to the side or underneath?
> I am looking for a headlamp that will be mounted to my hard hat at work. If the diffuser sticks up, it will likely get snagged on machinery and snapped off.


 
There is a little play left to right but that's about it. I would say it sticks up maybe an inch. It's easy to remove however.


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## Egsise (May 20, 2010)

Yep, and mine broke when I removed it.


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## Mr Floppy (Aug 15, 2013)

Mr Floppy said:


> Well, a mounting arm broke for me.



It's been over three years and the second arm has now broke. I've been using it with just the one arm and it held it quite securely. This time, the break was quite bad. It looks like the plastic fatigued over time and shattered in a few places as I put the body back in after a battery change. No gluing this back. Part of the arms are still there so it can work as a headlamp with a bit of ingenuity but I think it's done it's time and served me well for over three years. Time to look at the HL21


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## RetroTechie (Nov 13, 2013)

Got a pair of these the other day, and agree with most criticisms earlier in this thread:



Far too throwy for _most_ activities that a headlamp might be used for 
The (must have) diffuser should diffuse more, and looks easy to break 
Mid- and high mode are too much alike to the naked eye, could have been spaced better 
Headband doesn't sit very comfortable, and could do with a re-design 
That said, a more effective diffuser is easy to improvise, and same goes for the headband so no deal-breakers IMHO. What's left is a pretty decent 1x AA headlight @ a good price.


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## Jash (Nov 14, 2013)

Mr Floppy said:


> It's been over three years and the second arm has now broke. I've been using it with just the one arm and it held it quite securely. This time, the break was quite bad. It looks like the plastic fatigued over time and shattered in a few places as I put the body back in after a battery change. No gluing this back. Part of the arms are still there so it can work as a headlamp with a bit of ingenuity but I think it's done it's time and served me well for over three years. Time to look at the HL21



Mine did this too. I fixed it by drilling some 3mm holes in the main section of the holder and used two, UV rated zip ties (the expensive black ones) and a piece of inner tube from a bicycle for some traction and it's actually better to use than the original set up.


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## Woods Walker (Nov 18, 2013)

Mine is still just fine and I can see the difference between the med and high modes. I never did remove the body from the headband and betting this was a good thing.


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## Mr Floppy (Nov 19, 2013)

Jash said:


> Mine did this too. I fixed it by drilling some 3mm holes in the main section of the holder and used two, UV rated zip ties (the expensive black ones) and a piece of inner tube from a bicycle for some traction and it's actually better to use than the original set up.



Interesting, can you post a picture? I still have the plate. I squeezed the light into a Zebralight holder and it just isn't right without the rigid plate. For a start, I can't adjust the angle very well. I was trying to figure out a way to make the arms out of something stronger but just haven't come up with anything. I tried some zip ties and it moved too much but the inner tube sounds promising.


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## Stevie (Dec 4, 2013)

Greetings from England,
I have read this thread with great interest. I have the HL21 myself and would like to addif I may.
I find it an excellent performer for ‘dynamic’ activities,such as walking or running. The throwybeam shows the trail ahead very well, whilst the very good spill shows theground just in front rather well.
I have used it extensively for winter walking . Not sure if any of you guys in the US haveheard of a walk over here called the Pennine Way which is 280 Miles long, Iwalked a lot of this route last winter and the HL21 worked really well. What I really like about this light is thesingle AA format, nice and simple. Ireally can’t understand why other manufacturers persist in using the 3 AAAformat. The single AA format means easybattery changes with cold, wet hands.
Sure, there’s a few niggles. I agree with everyone’s comments regarding the headband, silly diffuserand lack of 25 lumen mode. But I reallylike the 48 lumen mode for walking (and running) – the beam extends for a good useabledistance of about 50 metres.
If you are in camp, use a separate floody light (I have aZebralight for this purpose). The HL21is not an “in camp” light, rather it will get you to camp instead. 
Don’t remove the light from the clip supports, there reallyis no need to do this; as per reports above, the clips can fail.
A very interesting thread, thank you all.
Steve


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## Jash (Dec 14, 2013)

Mr Floppy said:


> Interesting, can you post a picture? I still have the plate. I squeezed the light into a Zebralight holder and it just isn't right without the rigid plate. For a start, I can't adjust the angle very well. I was trying to figure out a way to make the arms out of something stronger but just haven't come up with anything. I tried some zip ties and it moved too much but the inner tube sounds promising.



My house got struck by lightning last week and it fried the PC. When it's fixed I'll upload some shots using my 50D, as the iPhone camera sucks for detailed close ups.


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