# Need suggestions on a good benchtop rotary parts tubmbler and media to be used.



## LLCoolBeans (Mar 16, 2009)

Anyone know where I can get a smallish bench-top parts tumbler that is a good balance between quality and price?

Must be a rotary tumbler, no vibratory tumblers please.

EDIT: I am expanding this thread to include tumbler media. Now that I've looked around a bit, I am completely confused. The number of choices is dizzying.

All I need, at least at this time, is a general purpose media for deburing and putting a uniform finish on small metal parts.

I'm also having a bit of trouble finding media retailers, does someone have a link?

Thanks


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 16, 2009)

*Re: Need suggestions on a good benchtop rotary parts tubmbler.*

Anyone have experience with this one...?

http://www.cabelas.com/link-12/product/0003101212489a.shtml


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 16, 2009)

Ok, I am having a horrible time finding media. The only place I can find that has anything like what I need, that will allow you to just place an online order, is located and ships from Canada.

I figured this would be fairly easy, I was wrong. Does anyone know of a good media dealer?


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## G1K (Mar 16, 2009)

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/vibratory_tumblers.htm

media at the bottom of the page

http://www.shorinternational.com/TumblingMedia.htm

located in Vermont.

These are the first two that come up on a google search for "media for tumbler"


Here's another:
http://www.tumblingmachines.com/tumbling_media.shtml

No affiliation with any of the sites...

Ryan


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## precisionworks (Mar 16, 2009)

Lortone has been making tumblers for more years than IBM has made computers

Mine was purchased around 1975, when I was shooting (and reloading) 5000 rounds each month. All that empty brass went through the tumbler, which ran nearly nonstop. Then our daughter got into polishing rocks ... er, gems. That takes forever, as the semi precious stones abrade slowly - as in three weeks, running 24/7. Now I tumble parts for myself & customers. Impossible to kill.

http://www.lortone.com/tumblers.html



> I am having a horrible time finding media



What metal or metals will you tumble?

How hard are they?

What level of finish is desired?

After you answer those questions, finding the correct media isn't difficult. If you want to tumble Ti-6-4, you may want to look at ceramics, only because Chris Reeves Knives uses that for the "stonewash" finish on their blades. Ceramics, as with all media, come in many sizes, grades, shapes, bonds, etc. Calling tech support will help narrow down the choices.

The Kramer website has tons of information (but minimum order is 50#): http://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/finishing-guides/barrel-finishing-guide.htm


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## StrikerDown (Mar 16, 2009)

Beans,

Don't know what you are trying to do but Harbor Fr has a smallish rotary tumbler in the latest sale paper for $29.95. They also stock several kinds of media in their stores, possibly this may fill the bill, It's cheap any who!

Ray


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> Lortone has been making tumblers for more years than IBM has made computers



I'll check those out, thanks for the tip.




precisionworks said:


> What metal or metals will you tumble?



First job is a batch of 6/4 titanium pocket clips. But in the future, possibly brass, bronze, aluminum, and stainless.

Not that I need a media to do everything, but I'm looking for something general purpose, that will put on a nice even finish and dull if not remove file and belt sander marks.




precisionworks said:


> What level of finish is desired?
> 
> After you answer those questions, finding the correct media isn't difficult. If you want to tumble Ti-6-4, you may want to look at ceramics, only because Chris Reeves Knives uses that for the "stonewash" finish on their blades. Ceramics, as with all media, come in many sizes, grades, shapes, bonds, etc. Calling tech support will help narrow down the choices.



Don't need any specific level of finish, just so long as it produces a nice even finish.

I'll look further into ceramics. Thanks.


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Beans,
> They also stock several kinds of media in their stores, possibly this may fill the bill, It's cheap any who!



This is all I'm finding on the HF website...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97027

From the description it seems like it might be too coarse. Also, it says it's intended for vibratory tumblers. Does that make a difference?


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## Patriot (Mar 17, 2009)

I used rotary tumblers for about 15 years but about 10 years ago I started using vibratory instead. They just seem to work better and more quickly. My application has been to clean and polish empty ammunition cases for the purpose of reloading. I've occasionally used it to polish gun parts and even rocks for fish tank decorations.

I've been using the Dillion and it's never let me down.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/co.../Dillon__039_s_CV_2001_Vibratory_Case_Cleaner

For media I use ground corn or walnut hulls in conjunction with some liquid metal polish. Your purposes may require more aggressive media...not sure.


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

Patriot36 said:


> I used rotary tumblers for about 15 years but about 10 years ago I started using vibratory instead. They just seem to work better and more quickly. My application has been to clean and polish empty ammunition cases for the purpose of reloading. I've occasionally used it to polish gun parts and even rocks for fish tank decorations.
> 
> I've been using the Dillion and it's never let me down.
> http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/co.../Dillon__039_s_CV_2001_Vibratory_Case_Cleaner
> ...



I like the rotary kind. They run quieter and I'm running out of places in my shop to bolt things down.


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## rmteo (Mar 17, 2009)

Try: www.mscdirect.com


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

rmteo said:


> Try: www.mscdirect.com



I've looked on MSC, but they have very poor descriptions if any at all and there are no pictures in most cases. It would seem like you have to know exactly what you are looking for in order to order it from MSC.


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## rmteo (Mar 17, 2009)

I agree, their on-line descriptions are not the best. The printed catalog is much better. They do have a wide variety of media though.


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## rmteo (Mar 17, 2009)

Here is 2 manufacturers of media that are stocked by MSC:
http://www.raytech-ind.com/finish3.htm
http://www.belairfinishing.com/Mass_Finishing_Media_001.htm

I suggest using either cone or pyramid shaped media (0.38in. - 0.75in.) for flashlight size parts. The plastic media is probably your best choice for aluminum parts - you can also use the ceramic, but they may be too aggressive.

It will cost about $65-$85 for a 20lb. bag. Also, for best results, you want to order/use some kind of tumbling soap.


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## precisionworks (Mar 17, 2009)

You need to be aware that tumbling is a low energy process, as opposed to polishing on a powered wheel, or shot blasting/bead blasting. Tumbling works well for refining a finish that's already very smooth, like the type of finish produced by 800 grit sanding. Starting with that, tumbling works well. If your part has rough edges, scratches you can feel, etc., those need to be removed before tumbling - especially on hard materials like Ti-6-4, or super hard materials like knife steel.


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> You need to be aware that tumbling is a low energy process, as opposed to polishing on a powered wheel, or shot blasting/bead blasting. Tumbling works well for refining a finish that's already very smooth, like the type of finish produced by 800 grit sanding. Starting with that, tumbling works well. If your part has rough edges, scratches you can feel, etc., those need to be removed before tumbling - especially on hard materials like Ti-6-4, or super hard materials like knife steel.



Oh, well that won't work. 

I was under the impression that If I used a coarse media, that it would basically be an inefficient but cost effective way to replace a blasting cabinet.

I would just buy a blasting cabinet, but those require a huge compressor, which is a fairly large investment.

I do have a line on a broken one that someone wants to get rid of, which may only need a simple fix to get going. So, if that works out, I might not need the tumbler at all and just buy a blasting cabinet.

I'll still have to run 220 out to my shop though, and I'm guessing, that would be no small expense either.


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## rmteo (Mar 17, 2009)

Bean, the main reason why production shops use tumbling, is for part de-burring and removing tool marks.

Bead blasting is used to apply a matt finish to the part. Blasting will not remove burrs and tool marks.


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

rmteo said:


> Bean, the main reason why production shops use tumbling, is for part de-burring and removing tool marks.
> 
> Bead blasting is used to apply a matt finish to the part. Blasting will not remove burrs and tool marks.



The tool marks don't need to be completely removed, deburring can easily be done with a hand held deburring tool, I just need an even finish. If a few tool marks remain on the edges of the clip, but they are smoothed over, that would be plenty good enough for this particular job.

Bead blaster would be incredibly useful for a wide range of other tasks as well.


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## rmteo (Mar 17, 2009)

In your case then, bead blasting is the way to go. Just be careful with those tiny glass beads - they tend to find their way into just about everything. Especially, wear eye protection. :mecry::mecry::mecry:


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## precisionworks (Mar 17, 2009)

> production shops use tumbling, is for part de-burring and removing tool marks.


It depends on the material hardness, and the degree of defect. One shop I work with uses a SteelABrator, high impact airless shot tumbler. Only slightly louder than an F-16 on after burner, it does a nice job on aluminum castings.







Most people don't think tumbler when they see this monster


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

rmteo said:


> In your case then, bead blasting is the way to go. Just be careful with those tiny glass beads - they tend to find their way into just about everything. Especially, wear eye protection. :mecry::mecry::mecry:



I would prefer a blasting cabinet, but like I mentioned, there is the compressor issue, as well as the 220 issue.

So, are you saying a tumbler will not work for my purpose? I thought it might be a good way to produce an even finish without making the investment in a large compressor or sacrifice valuable shop space for two new large items, rather than one small item that can even be stowed away when not in use.


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## rmteo (Mar 17, 2009)

Even with a blasting cabinet, those beads will find their way into places you don't want to. Of course, you still will have to contend with the compressor issue as bead blasting requires a large volume of airflow.

A tumbler can work for you with the right media. To give you an example of what tumbling can do, take a look at a recent D size MAG - if you have one handy. There is a marked difference in the finish between the body and the head/bezel. On the body, you can see (and feel with your fingernail) the tool marks caused by the turning process. On the head (and bezel) you will see a shiny, almost mirror, finish. The head and bezel have been tumbled (and probably polished as well) while the body has not.


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## LLCoolBeans (Mar 17, 2009)

rmteo said:


> Even with a blasting cabinet, those beads will find their way into places you don't want to. Of course, you still will have to contend with the compressor issue as bead blasting requires a large volume of airflow.



Yea, I've looked into this. You can run almost any pneumatic tool with a fairly small compressor, but if you want to blast, you need WAY more airflow and a compressor about the size of a portly man.



rmteo said:


> A tumbler can work for you with the right media. To give you an example of what tumbling can do, take a look at a recent D size MAG - if you have one handy. There is a marked difference in the finish between the body and the head/bezel. On the body, you can see (and feel with your fingernail) the tool marks caused by the turning process. On the head (and bezel) you will see a shiny, almost mirror, finish. The head and bezel have been tumbled (and probably polished as well) while the body has not.



Ok, that's what I was hoping. 

I don't need the finish to look any sort of specific way, I just need the finish to be even. So, I don't expect the tumbled finish to look like a blasted finish. I don't really care so long as the end result is salable.


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## KC2IXE (Mar 18, 2009)

LLCoolBeans said:


> Anyone know where I can get a smallish bench-top parts tumbler that is a good balance between quality and price?



Rio Grande Jewelry supply http://www.riogrande.com

OK, most media other than say corn cob/walnut shells and the like want to run WET (well, damp) with re circulating water, which makes rotary tumblers problematic, and vibratory finishers work a LOT faster, and a GOOD one is a LOT quieter than you might think. The BIG noise on mine is the sound of the media rubbing against itself, NOT the machine.

As for media, a LOT of it depends on 1)Size of the machine you are working with, and 2)Size of the work. Get the "wrong" combination, and you can end up with media wedged between features and in holes

I basically use 6 different media in my smallish tumbler

Small Pyramids - the "Clean Cut" media - Both the Medium and Fine cut - for the size tumbler I have, a 5 lb box is good
Porcelain Burnishing Media White/Ultra fine - again, 5 lbs is plenty - they are a skew cut rod - a fine polish/finish media
Ceramic Media - 3/32 cylinder - as a preliminary to the Porcelain media above - again, 5 lbs
Red Buff - a shell/wood chip type media for polishing - great for doing ammo brass too
Corn Cob - see red buff


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## precisionworks (Mar 18, 2009)

> re circulating water, which makes rotary tumblers problematic


All the Lortone tumblers are designed to run either wet or dry. My Model QT12 would often run 24 hours a day, for 7 days, half full of stones, abrasive & water. Never leaked a drop.


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## KC2IXE (Mar 18, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> All the Lortone tumblers are designed to run either wet or dry. My Model QT12 would often run 24 hours a day, for 7 days, half full of stones, abrasive & water. Never leaked a drop.



The problem isn't the tumbler, it's the media. As it rubs against itself, it makes mud/sludge, which unless you remove it from the tumbler really slows things, and cakes on things, which is why you have a large water resevoirl which trickles water into the "tumbler", and it drains, just keeping the media damp/lubed. The mud settles out


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## shinbone (Mar 20, 2009)

I did a little research on this subject for some small metal working I was doing and settled on one of these models at the following link:

http://www.therockshed.com/tumbler2.html

The reason they (Thumlers Tumblers) came recommended over the HF models is that the interior of the tumbler canister has flats which cause the media to actually tumble as opposed to the smooth sided HF units which cause the media and parts to just slump down the sides. Replacement parts are also plentiful and easy to find which I found beneficial in dedicating one metal type to a specific canister (i.e., don't polish silver in a container used previously for brass). They sell media, but you might have a specific purpose that requires specialized media where a reloading supply shop or jewelery supply shop may have better selections (such as steel shot media for hardening and polishing).

There may be some more sophisticated units, maybe the Loretone which may offer additional advantages, but wanted to get this info out to you.


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## precisionworks (Mar 20, 2009)

> the Lortone which may offer additional advantages


I'm not sure that it does, other than the fact that they've made tumblers forever. The rubber barrel is really quiet, and the inside is octagon shaped to help keep the parts & media active.


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## rescue15 (Mar 28, 2009)

Try here for media...a reloading supply house.

http://www.midwayusa.com/BROWSE/Bro...tegoryId=8940&categoryString=9315***731***695***

Steve


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