# Manafont ( Ultrafire ) 3 Mode XML P60 Dropin



## jacktheclipper (Mar 22, 2011)

I believe that this thread was lost in the meltdown so I'll bring it up again . 
I really love my dropin . It lives in a Solarforce L2 and I use it as a bike light . Medium mode is all I need for this application . I only use high mode for short bursts because it does get hot fairly quickly .

Yesterday I installed an OP reflector from Manafont that was designed for this dropin . The standard SMO reflector produces a beam with a shallow donut hole in the hotspot , so I got the OP reflector to try and eliminate this . I was very disappointed in the changed beam . Now with the OP reflector there is a wide purple ring at the edge of the beam . The hotspot does look better , but the beam overall is much less pleasing .
OP reflector





SMO reflector


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## GLOCKshooter (Mar 22, 2011)

I have the same setup, Manafont 3 mode in a Solarfoce host. I am thoroughly pleased with everything, but I need new 18560s. I have an old blue pair from DX, and while they produce plenty of light, they do not have enough juice to trigger the modes.


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## jacktheclipper (Mar 22, 2011)

GLOCKshooter said:


> I have the same setup, Manafont 3 mode in a Solarfoce host. I am thoroughly pleased with everything, but I need new 18560s. I have an old blue pair from DX, and while they produce plenty of light, they do not have enough juice to trigger the modes.



Yeah , when I first got the dropin I didn't get what everyone else was so excited about . Then I bought a new 18650 from Solarforce and - Boom . Now I get it .


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## Blitzwing (Mar 22, 2011)

I got my 3 mode UF XM-L off eBay, it's in an L2 and running off an 18650 (red and black Utrafire). Mine came with smooth and textured 'flectors. I run the smooth. Very happy with this dropin - lots of light!


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## Flashlite Foy (Mar 23, 2011)

Hey Jack,

You put that in your smoothed down sand L2, right? Great looking light.

jackknowsFoy


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## jacktheclipper (Mar 23, 2011)

Flashlite Foy said:


> Hey Jack,
> 
> You put that in your smoothed down sand L2, right? Great looking light.
> 
> jackknowsFoy


 
FoyknowsFoyLatin


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## recDNA (Mar 24, 2011)

I have one on order with a bunch of Trustfires in different sizes. Looking at the pics I'm glad I went with the smooth reflector. If I wanted a nice reflector I'd buy a Dereelight reflector. I like them the best.


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## RedForest UK (Mar 24, 2011)

Is that the beam after you removed the black ring around the emitter and screwed it right down? It seems to resemble what mine looked like before I did that, my led's tint is pretty nice though so I don't see any 'purple' in the edge of the beam.. Maybe I just got lucky?

You could also try ordering the 'warm/yellowish' XR-E drop-in off of manafont and trying that reflector, it's designed for XR-E and is LOP but gives a much more concentrated hotspot than the seperate $3.00 one which was originally designed for MC-Es. I prefer the 2 stage hotspot though as it reminds me of the Nailbender one that I had and sold (he used that same reflector).


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## jacktheclipper (Mar 24, 2011)

RedForest UK said:


> Is that the beam after you removed the black ring around the emitter and screwed it right down?



Man , I haven't had the stones to try and pry the ring out of the dropin . The reflector sits down in a depression in the ring and the emitter seems to be fully inside of it . By the way , I'm not after a different beam profile or more throw , I just want a smooth artifact-free beam . The SMO reflector is good but for the *slight *donut hole . How difficult is it to remove the ring and is this process reversable? Do you have any before and after beamshots ? 
Thanks .


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## Lighthearted1 (Mar 24, 2011)

jacktheclipper said:


> Man , I haven't had the stones to try and pry the ring out of the dropin . The reflector sits down in a depression in the ring and the emitter seems to be fully inside of it . By the way , I'm not after a different beam profile or more throw , I just want a smooth artifact-free beam . The SMO reflector is good but for the *slight *donut hole . How difficult is it to remove the ring and is this process reversable? Do you have any before and after beamshots ?
> Thanks .



I have two of the Manafont smooth drop-ins. I actually like the beam and don't mind the slight donut hole.

Just for fun I tried this diffuser film on one of them.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...haserburn-s-Diffusion-Film-DC-Fix-CPF-Service

It really does give a much floodier beam by spreading out the hot spot. Throw is reduced a lot but overall output is still all there (ceiling bounce test, plus selfbuilt test readings).
You can even order a second lens if you want, and put the film on one. Just remove the bezel to swap lenses whenever you want to change the beam profile. Or be like me and have one of each ready to go.

Read the thread for more info.


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## jacktheclipper (Mar 24, 2011)

I use this light as a bike light so I need _some_ throw . I have other lights for flood purposes .
Neat idea though . I imagine it also evens out the color of the beam as well . I will definitely get a warm version of this dropin when they appear .


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## Lighthearted1 (Mar 25, 2011)

jacktheclipper said:


> I use this light as a bike light so I need _some_ throw . I have other lights for flood purposes .
> Neat idea though . I imagine it also evens out the color of the beam as well . I will definitely get a warm version of this dropin when they appear .


 
Actually it is great on my bike with the film. It throws a lot of light right in front (0-40 feet covered very well). I do also keep a second light right next to it - standard reflector (The other Solar Force/Manafont XM-L or Maelstrom S12 tilted up a little higher). One is none, two is one..... (Can you see me NOW. 1500 lumens!)
The SolarForce/Manafont combo has switched output on me (down one level) when I hit big bumps in the road (FYI).

Ultrafire usually doesn't make warm or neutral versions of their LED's. You will have to look elsewhere I think.


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## Knives&Lights (Mar 25, 2011)

My Ultrafire XM-L drop in just quit working after about 30 days. It lights up and changes modes but is very dim. Now 3 of the four Ultrafire modules I have owned have quit after about one month. Both of my solarforce drop in modules have failed as well. No more budget drop in modules for me. (lost my post count after the crash need to get rid of this red banner so I can view profiles and buy better modules)


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## ^Gurthang (Mar 25, 2011)

Just received my MF/UF 3 mode XML drop-in, put it one of my Seraph hosts. Outstanding output, makes both my XRE-R2 and XPG-R5 drop-ins look weak-kneed. Couple of points though, this [and any] XML driven near its rating [3A] needs plenty of heatsinking. I added aluminum shim strip to make the drop-in a press fit. The bezel and body tube get warm in under a minute and toasty in about 2 minutes. Lack of good heatsinking will kill any emitter. 

BTW the drop-in I received I would rate as a "neutral" bin, its just a bit whiter than my LF 5000K R2 and a bit warmer than my 6200K XPG drop-in. The 3 modes are well spaced.


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## Lighthearted1 (Mar 25, 2011)

Knives&Lights said:


> My Ultrafire XM-L drop in just quit working after about 30 days. It lights up and changes modes but is very dim. Now 3 of the four Ultrafire modules I have owned have quit after about one month. Both of my solarforce drop in modules have failed as well. No more budget drop in modules for me. (lost my post count after the crash need to get rid of this red banner so I can view profiles and buy better modules)


 
Wondering if you did tightly wrap the module with foil and press in tight for better heat transfer?


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## Lighthearted1 (Mar 26, 2011)

GLOCKshooter said:


> I have the same setup, Manafont 3 mode in a Solarfoce host. I am thoroughly pleased with everything, but I need new 18560s. I have an old blue pair from DX, and while they produce plenty of light, they do not have enough juice to trigger the modes.


 
You probably got a single mode drop-in by mistake. A better battery won't help. Manafont has made this error in the past from what I have read.


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## recDNA (Mar 26, 2011)

Lighthearted1 said:


> You probably got a single mode drop-in by mistake. A better battery won't help. Manafont has made this error in the past from what I have read.


 
If the single mode weren't driven so hard I wouldn't have ordered the triple mode. I figure I'll have to run on medium most of the time. Id love to get one that runs at 3 amps, 2 amps, and a "low" at 1 amp. I have no use for real low in a drop in and medium mode is never high enough for my taste. If I want low I use one of my quarks.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


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## trooplewis (Mar 26, 2011)

Now you guys have me thinking about drop ins again.
Will the Manafont P60 work in my Pelican M6 Lithium? It currently is powered by a Luxeon 5w bulb.

Or would it be better just to spend the $13 on a Solarforce body and put the P60 drop-in in that?


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## RedForest UK (Mar 27, 2011)

I actually ran mine with the diffuser film on the front as well while I was waiting for the OP reflector, it is a nice smooth beam but just didn't have enough throw for me. I couldn't put up with the very noticable donut hole with the SMO reflector though, but the OP one seems perfect once you remove the black ring and screw it right down.

Unfortunately I didn't take pics of dissasembling it but the black ring isn't glued or sealed in at all, you just have to be careful to keep the force upwards when pulling it out and not sideways at all. Still the led is well soldered down and I didn't even come close to loosening it. 

I find the best technique is to use a small pointy knife to drill in a small hole at a tight angle on one side of the plastic ring, then just use the knife itself as a tool to pry it open using that hole for purchase, it really wasn't that hard and the results were a _much_ better beam with the OP reflector than before.


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## recDNA (Mar 27, 2011)

What is the black ring for?

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## RedForest UK (Mar 27, 2011)

I think the idea is to secure and centre the led while the thermal adhesive is still setting, and also to be an electrical insulator to prevent a short with the reflector. The OP reflector by Manafont seems to have a lower centre section to prevent these shorts anyway though.

I just tried the SMO reflector without the ring as well now and the donut hole was much reduced, I still like the OP one much more though..


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## Knives&Lights (Mar 28, 2011)

Lighthearted1 said:


> Wondering if you did tightly wrap the module with foil and press in tight for better heat transfer?



No, I didn't wrap the module but never used it on high for over a minute at a time. I did use the medium setting for peiods of around 10 minutes.


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## ^Gurthang (Mar 28, 2011)

Definately wrap that rascal! I've used the MF drop-in for several mornings in 20 F weather. It gets plenty warm after a 20+ minute walk w/ the dog. I added both a shim wrap around the base and a thicker wrap between the back of the reflector bell and the bezel. That way the drop-in becomes almost part of the head/bezel. Really improves the heat transfer. The MF driver is def. driving the XML hard, it drains one of my 2200 18650s in about 45 minutes.


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## Brian10962001 (Mar 29, 2011)

I just unscrewed my smooth reflector about one full turn and it got rid of the hole. You can still see a very slight dark spot, but that's smooth reflector for you. I really didn't like the hole. I tried swapping my Solarforce OP reflector on, but I couldn't tighten down the smooth reflector on my R5 without it shorting to the rim of the LED.


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## Glow_Worm (Apr 3, 2011)

I received my Manafont Ultrafire XM-L 3-mode drop-in yesterday; took about 3 weeks to arrive. This is really an outstanding drop-in, and I want to thank all the posters in this & other threads for recommending it. Using a bounce-test w/ light-meter, it is actually brighter on a single 18650 than my Lumintop TD-15X w/ 2xIMR16340's. About 800 lumens at turn-on, and way over 600 lumens after 3-mins, conservatively estimated (this in a Solarforce L2P host).

Just a fantastic package for about $40 total including the L2P & drop-in.

The only thing I dislike about it is the very low-frequency PWM used for the Med & Low modes. This causes a very annoying flicker on moving objects, and distracts from what would otherwise be a perfect drop-in light. But for $16, I can accept it. Maybe they'll improve on that in the future. Kudos to Ultrafire & Manafont for producing & selling this little jewel...


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## JStraus (Apr 8, 2011)

I wanted to add my two cents here as well since my drop in arrived yesterday and I have had a chance to play with it a bit.

I pulled my MC-E out of a 502-B host (Waiting for L2P) and was able to compare it to my P-Rocket 3 mode XP-G R5 neutral white.

The output it darn impressive. It puts out a broader beam (maybe 60%?) than the R5 and definitely more light, but I acknowledge that it's being driver far harder. It is definitely a cooler white, but it is still basically white. I consider the neutral R5 pretty warm. 

It does dim in the center of the hotspot or maybe it would be better to say the the hotspot has a brighter edge then a nice even spill to the edge of the beam. By comparison my MC-E defines "doughnut-hole" but is definitely more floddy. I have not compared outputs between XML and MC-E.

Mode memory! The mode memory stays put between off and on cycles not matter how quickly you turn off from on and no matter how long you leave on before turing off. This is a big plus for me because my MC-E needs to be on for about three sec before I turn off or it will advance, and my R5 will do the opposite (needs to be off for several secs.)

In all, I am very happy and can't wait for my L2P host!


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## recDNA (Apr 8, 2011)

I'm still waiting for mine. I wish solarforce would make a 1 x 26650 host. I think a little bigger host to dissipate heat
And a more powerful battery to drive that baby would be great. No way I'm paying over $100 just for a specially built host with an empty head for a $16 drop in! We need a big manufacturer to mass produce the host, battery, and charger to make them affordable.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk


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## PapaLumen (Apr 8, 2011)

Where can we get the Manafont drop in? DX? Got an sku? Is it better than the solarforce-sales dropin?
Thanks.


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## Glow_Worm (Apr 8, 2011)

PapaLumen said:


> Where can we get the Manafont drop in? DX? Got an sku? Is it better than the solarforce-sales dropin?
> Thanks.


 
From Manafont, linked to in this review: http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/1193 
It's actually made by Ultrafire, so it may be available from other places as well.

Is it better than the Solarforce-sales drop-in? I have the Solarforce single-mode XM-L for comparison, and the Manafont is driven much harder and is noticably brighter (and hotter). It has 3-modes vs. the single-mode Solarforce, but the lower modes have some PWM if that bothers you. The Manafont is 4.2v max, so only good w/ a single Li-Ion, while the Solarforce will also work w/ 2xCR123 (but not 2xRCR123), which is handy if you're going to be away from a charger for an extended period.

So which one is better is up to your own needs.


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## PapaLumen (Apr 8, 2011)

Thanks. By better i mean brighter, better beamshot, runs at correct current etc. Think ill have to order one up and get a solarforce host, now, which one......?


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## Lighthearted1 (Apr 8, 2011)

PapaLumen said:


> Thanks. By better i mean brighter, better beamshot, runs at correct current etc. Think ill have to order one up and get a solarforce host, now, which one......?


 
I think the L2X is the best choice for this hot drop-in because it has by far the most surface area for cooling and heat removal. I believe it even has a slight edge over the more costly Cryos Cooling Bezel (just a guess).

I really like the strong texture of the body design for a non- slippery hold as well.


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## PapaLumen (Apr 8, 2011)

Yep, do like the look of that one. Did i see one in grey/ metal on here the other day? *goes off to look*


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## mitro (Apr 11, 2011)

I ordered two of these. One of them I haven't taken out of the package yet. The one I have used just draws way too much current. 3.4A on a fully charged AW 2900 and 4.5A (not a typo) from an IMR 18650 or 26650. Its nice to have a bright dropin, but I'm not thrilled that I have to go looking for my lesser cells to run it so it doesn't burn up. Otherwise I'm going to have to replace the driver. At that point, I might as well have built my own.


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## recDNA (Apr 11, 2011)

I just got my drop in. Mine is the 3 mode. I found it drew 3 amps on high, .86 amps on medium, and .18 amps on low. I'm very happy it only draw 3 amps from aw 2900 protected 18650. I wish medium were higher but you can't complain at the price.

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## RedForest UK (Apr 11, 2011)

Have you tried measuring through the tailcap? I wasn't happy that mine drew 3.8A and 4.5A from a 2900 and IMR respectively at 4.2v, but then I measured through the tailcap and both current measurements went down about .5 of an amp. XM-L's can easily take 3.5A if well heatsinked so I have no qualms using one that starts at just over 3.3A and soon drops to around 3.1.


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## shao.fu.tzer (Apr 11, 2011)

Knives&Lights said:


> My Ultrafire XM-L drop in just quit working after about 30 days. It lights up and changes modes but is very dim. Now 3 of the four Ultrafire modules I have owned have quit after about one month. Both of my solarforce drop in modules have failed as well. No more budget drop in modules for me. (lost my post count after the crash need to get rid of this red banner so I can view profiles and buy better modules)


 

Either you left them on too long without properly managing the heat or you're a shill for an expensive drop in manufacturer.


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## Mike_TX (Apr 13, 2011)

Knives&Lights said:


> My Ultrafire XM-L drop in just quit working after about 30 days. It lights up and changes modes but is very dim. Now 3 of the four Ultrafire modules I have owned have quit after about one month. Both of my solarforce drop in modules have failed as well. No more budget drop in modules for me. (lost my post count after the crash need to get rid of this red banner so I can view profiles and buy better modules)





shao.fu.tzer said:


> Either you left them on too long without properly managing the heat or you're a shill for an expensive drop in manufacturer.



Totally agree. I'm looking at 3 or 4 budget drop-ins on my desk right now, and not a single one has crapped out. Either the poster is unnaturally hard on his stuff or he has epic bad luck.

.
.


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## recDNA (Apr 13, 2011)

I'll tell you what - so far I'm delighted my Manafont Ultrafire 3 mode XM-L Drop in. It's way better than I expected. It doesn't pop my Ultrafire (flame label) 18650 and only runs at 2.8 amps. It runs a little over 3 amps with an AW IMR but I can't discern the difference with my eyes so I prefer to use a protected cell. I'm afraid I will drain the IMR too low without realizing it. It throws better than expected. There is a definite hotspot. The tint and beam look fine. Doesn't skip modes. I put it in the armrest of my car where it will get lots of use so I'll let you know how it holds up but I'm thinking of buying a couple more as back-ups. I don't think twice about buying P91's and they don't last forever either. The tint is definitely COOL white so if you need yellow or orange light don't bother with this one. It doesn't look blue or purple to my eyes though. Just cool white. I wish I had one of those Cryos bezels to put it into but at least I wrapped it as tight as possible in copper tape (no adhesive variety). It's in my L2p. I'm using the reverse clicky just to be sure it isn't accidentally activated setting my car on fire. Spring is the only season I use Li Ions in the car so I might as well enjoy it.

BTW, just to show I'm not a shill for anybody....the Ultrafire gray protected 18500's I bought at the same time to use with a P91 are junk. They only hold a charge of 4.08 volts brand new.

Although this is a very inexpensive drop in I like it as well as any of my expensive ones and I think it compares favorably....to the degree I don't really think it should be relegated to the "Budget Lights" thread.


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## recDNA (Apr 13, 2011)

PapaLumen said:


> Where can we get the Manafont drop in? DX? Got an sku? Is it better than the solarforce-sales dropin?
> Thanks.


 
Manafont.com. That's why we call it the Manafont drop in! It's much brighter than the Solarforce drop in but of course it gets hot faster and has shorter runtime on high. I'm all about brightness so I have no problem with shorter runtime. I can't remember the last time I had a flashlight on for more than 10 minutes straight so I don't mind that it may well be dangerously hot after 10 minutes. If I need to run it a while I'll just use medium!


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## shao.fu.tzer (Apr 13, 2011)

I would say quality control could be an issue, but at the heart of the drop-in, IE - the driver and LED lies a nice combo. Sometimes when I find a cheap drop-in that I really like, I'll de-solder everything, replace the leads with higher quality teflon wire, remove and reapply the thermal compound behind the star, and re-solder. I want to get into potting too... just don't have a lot of experience with it so I don't trust my skills. Anyway, you'd be amazed at how many of these things have a half-blob of cheap thermal grease as the only interface between the star and pill. It's no wonder some people have these things burn out on them. Ideally, your layer of thermal interface should be as thin and even as possible. Most of these mass-produced Chinese drop-ins are slapped together haphazardly in an attempt at efficiency so you end up with a giant misshapen blob of grease between your star and pill and almost no thermal transfer. No matter how much you wrap your drop-in at that point, you're basically fudged. So I would recommend all with the proper knowledge and tools to inspect these drop ins and fix if needed if you want maximum performance from your $16 light engine.

Shao


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## fishx65 (Apr 25, 2011)

Just got one of these bad puppies. All I can say is "WOW"! It puts all my R2's to shame. Now I'm gonna have to replace all my P60 deer tracking hosts with these.


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## recDNA (Apr 25, 2011)

fishx65 said:


> Just got one of these bad puppies. All I can say is "WOW"! It puts all my R2's to shame. Now I'm gonna have to replace all my P60 deer tracking hosts with these.


 
I like mine too. Wish I bought a couple of em.

Do you think it throws as far as your r2's?


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## fishx65 (Apr 25, 2011)

recDNA said:


> I like mine too. Wish I bought a couple of em.
> 
> Do you think it throws as far as your r2's?



I'm wondering the same thing. I'm thinking the amount of light this XML puts out will make up for the larger hotspot when it comes to throw. Gonna do a little testing when I head up to my cabin this week.


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## ^Gurthang (Apr 26, 2011)

The MF drop-in simply overpowers any decent XRE-R2 drop-in on high. However, run the MF on medium [~ 1000 mA] and compare to an R2.... my LF R2 has a tighter / brighter hotspot at 100+ yds than the MF at the same current level. At 150+ yds the R2 still has a discernible hotspot, the XML is much larger and weaker.


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## recDNA (Apr 26, 2011)

^Gurthang said:


> The MF drop-in simply overpowers any decent XRE-R2 drop-in on high. However, run the MF on medium [~ 1000 mA] and compare to an R2.... my LF R2 has a tighter / brighter hotspot at 100+ yds than the MF at the same current level. At 150+ yds the R2 still has a discernible hotspot, the XML is much larger and weaker.


 
Even on high I doubt the manfont has more lux than my 1.4 amp nailbender r2.


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## shao.fu.tzer (Apr 26, 2011)

recDNA said:


> Even on high I doubt the manfont has more lux than my 1.4 amp nailbender r2.


 
Do you own one? Mine can keep up with throw with every XR-E I own besides my Tiablo A9.


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## LG&M (Apr 27, 2011)

I have this drop in, In a L2P. I am useing a new ultrafire 18650 ( The gray ones) Would a better 18650 give me anymore light?


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## ^Gurthang (Apr 27, 2011)

Like I said, the XML on high [3A] simply overpowers any single XRE, XPE, or XPG P60 drop-in. Comparing a P60 based light to a larger dedicated "thrower" is apples and oranges.


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## recDNA (Apr 27, 2011)

shao.fu.tzer said:


> Do you own one? Mine can keep up with throw with every XR-E I own besides my Tiablo A9.


 
Yes. My r2 throws further


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## brted (Apr 27, 2011)

Here's a P60 R2 driven at 1.05A with a smooth reflector on an 18650. The fence posts are about 100' away:






Now here is a Manafont Ultrafire XM-L:





Okay, so here's a side-by-side of the fence posts. XM-L on the left, R2 on the right:









They're actually fairly close in terms of throw when you just look at the hotspot.


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## fishx65 (Apr 27, 2011)

Great beam shots br!!! Kinda what I figured these two would look like when compared side by side. You can really see how much more light the XML is kickin out. The extra spill is incredible for medium range illumination.


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## a1penguin (Apr 28, 2011)

Nice side by side shots. That XM-L is going to be an ideal replacement for my P60 bike light. It has a great combination of throw and spill. I'll have to evaluate my current light-weight "thrower" for the helmet (TrustFire TR-801 Q5).


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## linterno (Apr 29, 2011)

I won't say TR-801 Q5 is light weight, it is heavy. But it is definitely lighter than L2P with XM-L drop-in. But XM-L well worth it for biking.


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## fishx65 (May 2, 2011)

Did a little throw test tonight at my cabin with a couple Solarforce L2's. The XML Ultrafire vs my strongest DX 11836 R2. Next to my cabin is a big field with a few trees at different distances. Both these dropins don't do much out past 100 yds so I judged them at 75 yds. I only spent about 5 minutes comparing them but it was pretty obvious to me that these two dropins throw about the same distance. The big difference is how much larger of an area the XML can light up at 75 yds. Br's great pics above would show the same story all the way out to 75 yds.


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## PapaLumen (May 7, 2011)

My first solarforce host - L2P and my Manafont 3mode xml drop-in both arrived today 

Checked current at tailcap with my MM, 2A... hmm. Thought it was about time i used some thick wire for current measurements so stuck some 14ga in there - 3.5A! Thats better, im happy with that. Also rechecked a p7 DX Aurora that only ever gave about 1.8A with normal mm leads, with the thick wires - 3.1A!


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## ^Gurthang (May 8, 2011)

Brted,

Nice beamshots and a perfect comparison of the XRE vs XML abilities.


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## recDNA (May 8, 2011)

Don't forget my nailbender r2 is driven at 1.4 amps not 1 amp like all the commecially made p60's. The manafont is brighter for sure but the r2 lights up small areas brighter. The manafont just lights up the whole field. No question the r2 beam gives tunnel vision but sometimes you don't want to light such a large area...especially when the spill may go in peoples windows even though you're aiming at something else.


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## SCEMan (May 13, 2011)

Just got mine a few days ago and am really impressed! Significantly brighter than my NB XM-L 2.8A T6. Must be driven over 3A as it heats up my Cryos bezel much faster than the NB XM-L does. It's tightly wrapped with aluminum strips and wedged into the body for heat transfer but I'll try to use High sparingly and make it last... Quite a bargain!!!


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## JStraus (Jun 23, 2011)

How long has anyone pushed their Manafront XM-L on high mode? I have mine foil wrapped but the pill screwed out about 1/4 turn to smooth out the hotspot. I want to helmet mount this for riding my bike but don't know how long I can reasonable push it on high mode. (It's in a L2P host)

Just seeing if anyone has done any "torture" testing with this thing running at full blast. Or, alternatively, how hot to the touch is considered ok for the head of the host?

Thanks for any feedback!

J


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## jacktheclipper (Jun 24, 2011)

I have used my dropin on high for 1 hour on my bike going 15 MPH . It never got really hot constantly moving at that speed .


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## kramer5150 (Jun 25, 2011)

Question for you all... 

My host is a 6P bored for 18650 (slightly thinner walled than a stock 6P).
Stock SF bezel
Oveready zero resistance Z41 upgrade
I wrap all my P60 modules with copper tape to help dissipate heat.
I use either IMR-18650, and Panasonic CGR18650E cells (if I need a cooler running, LONG duration task type light).

Will I kill this drop in with IMR cells in this host?... How long do you all think before the LED turns "ugly blue"?
Will I be "forced" to stick with lower current cells with this setup?

I am thinking this will make a nice upgrade from my~350 Lumen MCE drop in.


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## RedForest UK (Jun 25, 2011)

Yes, you will almost certainly kill it pretty quickly with that set-up. With the zero-res switch the led will be seeing almost 5A with a 4.2v IMR cell.


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## kramer5150 (Jun 26, 2011)

OK great thanks... I think I'll stick with my MCE setup and seek an alternative.


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## PapaLumen (Nov 9, 2011)

Does anyone know if this drop-in has parasitic drain? Was a bit surprised to find my 3100 panasonic 18650 at 3.5v after using it for about 20mins. Its been in the draw for a couple of months though..


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## ^Gurthang (Nov 10, 2011)

Pap,

I've had two of the UF 3 mode XMLs for some time and haven't noticed any unexpected battery drain. How old are your Pana cells? I do know that running on high will rapidly drain a 18650 cell, best run-time I've gotten is ~ 1 hr on high and that was really pushing my luck. If your cells are well used or have been over discharged they will begin to lose capacity.


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