# Video of making and MD1 from a Malkoff MD2



## MartinDWhite (Oct 7, 2013)

Here is a quick (in 8x speed) video of making an MD1 from and MD2. Hope you enjoy. Some of the steps I normally use are different because the camera was in the way, but this will give you a good idea of what each one takes. Total time from chuck to unchuck is about 30 minutes. Then the re-finishing takes some more time. 

This was shot with a Drift HD mounted to the cross slide.


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## gadget_lover (Oct 7, 2013)

Thanks for sharing. Looks like a job well done. 


Daniel


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## DrafterDan (Oct 7, 2013)

Nicely done! Maybe a photo of the final product?


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## Norm (Oct 8, 2013)

DrafterDan said:


> Nicely done! Maybe a photo of the final product?


Modifications to convert Malkoff MD2 to "MD1" 











Second last flashlight is my MD1


Norm


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## MartinDWhite (Oct 8, 2013)

Norm, that is a nice line up of lights.


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## RI Chevy (Oct 8, 2013)

Cool video. You are very talented. Thank you for sharing.


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## Norm (Oct 8, 2013)

MartinDWhite said:


> Norm, that is a nice line up of lights.


There's one MDC missing, it was in my pocket 

Norm


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## precisionworks (Oct 8, 2013)

Nice work. What's the first insert being run in the Top Notch holder?


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## MartinDWhite (Oct 9, 2013)

It is one of the top notching grooving inserts. It is probably Kennametal - 1113884


Several of the threading inserts have broken when threading metal (my fault), but that grooving insert has done a lot of work. I am quite happy with it.


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## precisionworks (Oct 9, 2013)

MartinDWhite said:


> It is one of the top notching grooving inserts.



You may find an aluminum-specific insert in a conventional tool holder gives longer life, better finish, higher metal removal rate, lower cost, etc. These are from the Korloy website but everyone makes the high-positive, polished rake face insert.






I know you've done a number of these so please don't take my next comment as criticism ... are you using some type of packing between the chuck jaws & the light body? No packing shows in your video:






Gripping a fully finished part without packing, no matter if it's a light or anything else, is high risk machining. You may be able to run dozens of parts this way without a glitch but one day Murphy will visit, the tool will catch in the work & the work will spin slightly in the jaws. Quite a bit of profit is lost when you have to replace a customer's body with a brand new one & then you'll still have to machine the new one. Don't ask me how I know. 

FWIW all lights that come in are bored in split Delrin bushings machined to fit only one body:






Three layers of Post-It notes also works *in my chuck's jaws*:






The reason for the bold print above is that these jaws are ground for a wide contact area:






With small contact surfaces like the 6-jaw the 3-layer Post-It note probably wouldn't work. Manilla file folder material is a lot thicker & allows using more jaw pressure:






(Blue Post-It note shown in one jaw was used to bring this part to center. Post-It notes, at least the blue ones I have, measure 0.0030" before crush. They work well for final centering when the part needs to run dead nuts.)


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## TexasLumens (Oct 11, 2013)

Thanks for sharing! I like watching someone else work on a lathe. It is amazing sometimes to see how much we all work alike. Watching you use the steel wool...delrin bushing.... Looks like I'm standing in my shop watching me!!! :twothumbs Thanks Again. Dan.


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## MartinDWhite (Oct 12, 2013)

The jaws are gripping on a blemished MD2 head, that the part being worked on is screwed in. The head is mine and it is a ruined mess and only used to make MD1 bodies. The chuck never touches the finished surface of the body during machining. When turning any finished surface there are delrin bushings or masking tape between part and jaw. On a mill there are sometimes wood jaws inserts to touch and conform to the part. 

There is a whole collection of delrin bushing in the tool box by my lathe, all labeled with size on each end. A bunch of them are different sizes on each end, for turning tapered stuff. 

Thanks for the suggestions and pictures. It is awesome to see others setups and get advise. This is a self taught hobby for me, and each picture conveys a thousand bits on information. 

For perfect alignment to an out of center bore, I built a spider. 3 inch OD steel with 0.5 inch wall tube, with 4 threaded holes pointing toward the center at each end. It works like two small 4 jaw chucks holding about 3 inches apart to allow total alignment of out of center bored stuff. in all 3 axis of rotation.


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## StrikerDown (Oct 15, 2013)

Sorta like:



?


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## MartinDWhite (Oct 16, 2013)

StrikerDown said:


> Sorta like:
> 
> ?



Almost exactly like that.


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## KC2IXE (Oct 27, 2013)

Re centering a bore. One of those light bulbs I just had, if you are doing outside work, why not between centers? If doing inside, there is the trick of make an outside sleeve (or rings) and put between centers, then turn the sleeve, now the sleeve is parallel to the bore...


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## precisionworks (Oct 28, 2013)

KC2IXE said:


> ... if you are doing outside work, why not between centers?



How would the lathe dog be attached to the flashlight body?


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## KC2IXE (Oct 28, 2013)

You can male a dong that would clamp over the end, or just use the dog. I've made a dog that was 2 pieces of 1/2"x1" stock, with a V groove across the narrow face, and a pair of bolts to hold them together - a pin out one end, and you have a 1/2" thick dog...


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## precisionworks (Oct 28, 2013)

precisionworks said:


> How would the lathe dog be attached to the flashlight body?



Still not following - will you clamp on the finished OD of the flashlight body?


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## MartinDWhite (Oct 28, 2013)

To use a lathe dog would probably require a sacrificial head (like in the video). One of the only reasons using a sacrificial head works for me is because the chuck squeezes and deforms it slightly to prevent it from unscrewing from the body.


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## precisionworks (Oct 28, 2013)

MartinDWhite said:


> ... One of the only reasons using a sacrificial head works for me is because the chuck squeezes and deforms it slightly to prevent it from unscrewing from the body.


I understand that but when turning between centers there is no chuck mounted on the spindle, only a dead center projects from the spindle bore. Either way leaving enough waste material gives the dog a surface to drive.

There's no reason that I can see to turn between centers, even if the chuck has 10mm total runout. Perform all ops at one chucking & accuracy is identical to a chuck with 0.000000" runout. 

Grinding shops often grind between centers but no one here AFAIK runs a grinding shop. Even grinding between centers fails to guarantee best accuracy - which is dependent on how precisely the center was drilled into the part. Highly accurate round parts are centerless ground & have been for decades, certainly before 1950. MMS ran a good article in 2007:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...gP2PRsXyJlcSxnPX33JvT_g&bvm=bv.55123115,d.aWc


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## wquiles (Nov 2, 2013)

Nice video - thanks for taking the time to share with us


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