# Vector/Power on Board Mods



## TypeR632 (Dec 11, 2007)

Hello Everyone, I'm new to the forum. I came across here looking for the name of a handheld spotlight used in the movies. It's called a maxabeam, very nice but I like being married for the moment so we won't get into the prices. Obviously you guys know that. I went over to the local sams and bought the Vector. Very nice, would be nice to trim a little weight off. I've been lurking for a few weeks now looking for do it yourself mod threads, and really anything to do with HID's. 
I believe BVH said in one of his posts he was modding a costco. This would be the same principles, right? I would really like to practice on this light. Let me know what you think. Any threads or reading you guys could throw my way would be appreciated. 
Also has anyone tried to convert a mag into a HID themselves? I know Mac makes them, but I missed out on the order. And I think it would be fun to do it yourself. Thanks Everyone, Eddie:candle:


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## Patriot (Dec 11, 2007)

Welcome to CPF!! 

Maybe contact, send a private message to cpf member LuxLuthor. He makes battery packs and might be able to recommend a special battery pack for you. Li-ion would be the best because it produces the most energy per weight as far as flashlight applications go. 

By the way, this http://batteryjunction.com/n30-3161.html is a fairly small and light HID powered by NiMH batteries. It's lighter than the power on board light.


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## TypeR632 (Dec 13, 2007)

Thanks Patriot36. I guess the question is, is anybody going to mod their vector. Please, any and all input would be great.


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## KevinL (Dec 13, 2007)

Simple mod on mine. Rip out the existing SLA battery pack and put in a lighter weight battery pack. The Vector is surprisingly light without the SLA battery pack. 

I am not sure about the onboard electronics on the circuit board. I'm still working out whether I have to remove those to make this mod happen. I'm concerned about negative interactions with a battery of a different chemistry. I'll also have to build my own charging port. 

My plan is to pop a 4S1P lithium phosphate (A123) pack into it. Li-ion has its own concerns and could be really nasty if things go wrong. I really like lithium phosphate because of its inherently safe chemistry.

Last HID I built out of a regular "100W" spotlight used NiMH. 2500mAH high current "A" cells, pack of 10 or 11 (can't remember).


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## TypeR632 (Dec 14, 2007)

Have you decided what your going to do, other than the battery? Could this light be capable of double the output?:naughty:


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## ez78 (Dec 14, 2007)

One could swap the 35W ballast to a 55W version and get lots more lumens. But I am not sure how long the bulb would then last. Might even go  instantly.


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## TypeR632 (Dec 14, 2007)

What about buying a bulb (4200K range) and ballast (good quality) and replacing it. Would this be a simple swap or is there anything else involved? Someone chime in and explain, and also where I can get a bulb and ballast assembly. Thanks, Eddie

P.S. Can someone explain what the coated wire running along side the bulb is for. Is this something you have to live with, because it messes the beam up.


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## mcmc (Dec 17, 2007)

ditto on the last post - I'm getting a Sam's 35W POB HID soon, and the thought of making this bright light even brighter and warmer tinted makes me, well, excited =)


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## ez78 (Dec 17, 2007)

TypeR632 said:


> P.S. Can someone explain what the coated wire running along side the bulb is for. Is this something you have to live with, because it messes the beam up.



That wire is just part of the electrical circuit. It is definetly needed. I have heard some have removed the coating to make it thinner. But that is not recomended.


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## TypeR632 (Dec 17, 2007)

Thanks guys. Can someone give me a name of a good ballast and bulb, to fit this light.

I will worry about a battery when I find the above. The head presents a problem, with their custom head screws. Seems like the lense is plastic, that may be another problem. Let's hear the comments and ideas.


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## theforester (Dec 18, 2007)

I am curious about a 4200K lamp and ballast for the POB as well.:thinking: I just ordered this light (still in the mail) and while I'm fairly certain that I won't have a problem with the 6000K lamp, it would be great to know where I could get ahold of one that renders natural colors better. Does anyone know if these can be purchased in automotive stores or big home stores?


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## theforester (Dec 18, 2007)

Yeah, so the page wasn't loading when I first typed my message, so I tried to post 3 different times and apparently it posted my message all 3 times!


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## theforester (Dec 18, 2007)

Can I delete these so they don't take up space?


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## TypeR632 (Dec 19, 2007)

Yeah, it's not acting right with me either. Everytime I click on a sub category I have to reload. Obviously something is wrong.


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## ez78 (Dec 19, 2007)

This could work as replacement for the stock lead acid. And from the dimensions it looks like you might be able to fit two of these in the light, one on top of the other. The stock battery with wires plugged is about 105mm in height.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3303

This pack would be nice, but it is about 10mm longer than the stock sla.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2052


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## Spark Gap (Dec 19, 2007)

Hello all,

I've been using a Vector Power on Board HID, which I've modified to use this 2400 mA/h Lithium Iron Phosphate battery from Battery Space http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3932

This particular 10 ounce (4s2p) pack is rated for handling loads of up to 14 Amps for short intervals, hence they easily meet the demand of starting and running the HID balast. It safely runs the 35 watt lamp in the 'Power on Board' at full power for 30 minutes plus. I have tested it to 37 minutes, but this runs the battery well below the recommended cutoff threshold of 10 volts, or 2.5 volts per cell. The LiFePO4 pack remained only comfortably warm for the first 30 minutes, and became very warm when run past 35 minutes. Due to differences in battery chemistry, I do not use the light's internal battery charger which was made for the 6.5 lb 7 A/hr lead acid battery. Interestingly, this little LiFePO4 does actually yeild 50% of the original (1 hour) run time charactaristic of the stock lead acid battery. This is mainly due to the method battery manufacturers use (C/20) to rate capacity of lead acid batteries.

LiFePO4 has proven to be inherently safer than other lithium chemistries such as the more common 3.7 volt Lithium Manganese, or Lithium Colbalt Oxide type cells. I've used much larger LiFePO4 cells on my electric bikes with great success. Unlike their 3.7 volt cousins, the LiFePO4 3.2V nominal potential per cell makes an ideal building block for many devices requiring "12 volts".


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## TypeR632 (Dec 19, 2007)

Thanks guys, I wonder if Mac would know where to get the aftermarket HID bulb and ballast from. Or maybe another "Modder" that I don't know about. I saw in a post from him that he used Welch-Allyn in one HID build. I don't know if he uses them exclusively. I searched for them on the net but couldn't come up with anything. Seems like Philips or Panasonic are the best. Anyone? 
Thanks Eddie


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## java_man (Dec 23, 2007)

I finally got around to taking mine apart and came to a halt when I found the front bezel is assembled with tamper resistant tri-slot screws , and the wires to the battery are so short, you cant even get to the terminals

Unless I was hallucinating, I recall a thread here where someone completely disassembled theirs along with pics of the project, anyone had better luck than I tearing a POB-HID down?


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## NeonJohn (Dec 27, 2007)

Spark Gap said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I've been using a Vector Power on Board HID, which I've modified to use this 2400 mA/h Lithium Iron Phosphate battery from Battery Space http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3932



Are you using any sort of BMS? How are you charging?

Is the LiFePO the chemistry used in the Milwaulkee V28 battery? Reason I ask is that I have a friend who owns a factory authorized service center and he's passing on to me all the warranty replacement V28 batteries. Invariably they the pack has one bad cell but the rest are OK. 

I've kinda held off building packs for my HID lights because of a combination of round tuit shortages and a concern about using the cells without a BMS.

John


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## Spark Gap (Dec 27, 2007)

Hi John,

The LiFePO4 battery pack sold by BatterySpace does not include any BMS circuitry. The pack is made up of (8) 1200 mA/h 18650 cells wired in series/parallel (4S2P). Since the pack did not include a BMS curcuit, and was relatively cheap at $51, I figure I'll see how well this works as is. New cells are available for $6, should I have the need to repair the pack at some point. Maybe short series strings do not need the BMS? If BS sold a BMS board, I would be interested, but for now at least, this is not an option. Anyhow, the pack works fine with no problems so far as I can tell, though I'd have to cut it open to measure the individual cells to really be convinced.

Not sure about the Milwaukee tools using LiFePO4. I heard DeWalt is using the A123 cells in their 36V line. Easy enough to check by looking at the tell-tale cell voltage. LiFePO4 should read 3.5 volts when fully charged, as opposed to 4.2 volts for typical lithium secondary cells. Ironically, DeWalt/ Black and Decker, and the Vector 'Power on Board' light are actually made by the same parent company.

I bought a 12 cell, 12 amp/hour battery from an outfit in China this past summer for powering an electric bike project. The pack arrived damaged by shipping, and the seller was good enough to send me a second battery (with BMS) at no charge. I recently cut apart the damaged battery and took individual cell measurements. I then regrouped the cells to form two individulal matched sets of four, with three good cells as spares. (One cell had to be tossed due to damage). I soldered and heat-shrinked the new battery groups forming two 13.2 volt, 12 A/h batteries, again with no BMS. I'm presently using one pack to run portable compact fluorecent DC ballasts in wirless table lamps I've put together, and the other is running Ham radio equipment. I charge these batteried with a regular Batteryspace 1.5 amp, 16.6 volt (4 cell) lithium battery charger, but have installed two silicon diodes in series to drop the terminal voltage by 1.4V, for meeting the lower voltage required for charging LiFePO4 batteries.

If you are interested, I can provide pictures, however I'm new to this forum and do not know how to put up images. Be happy to email if need be.

Cliff


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## Handlobraesing (Dec 27, 2007)

They even have ~3,000K lamp too. The problem is that the bulb itself after $2.00 shipping + $20.00 profiteering of handling fee, it gets to cost damn near the entire light.

I'd be in for one 4000 to 4200 K lamp if someone can get a pair on eBay.


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## KevinL (Dec 27, 2007)

Just wanted to mention that I pulled off my successful conversion to A123. Runs, works, and charges fine. Even the battery indicator circuit seems to work. 

I bought a 4-cell Hyperion pack from the same guys who make the Hyperion 0606i charger that I use. Pack includes balance connector. 

I wired up a custom charging connector and open the rear of the light to access it. Didn't want to go through the connector in the side, there may be electronics in there that may not be compatible with A123 charge protocol. 

Nice and bright and very light now 

I priced a NiMH conversion using cells from a local source but the A123 pack was on sale and came out to be nearly the same price, plus lighter, plus no soldering required since the pack was obviously pre-built vs tabbed NiMH that I'd have to solder myself.. so I went A123. These are real A123 cells too, not the generic LiFePO4's. Nothing wrong with them but I like the quality assurance from the A123 branding.

Not interested in hacking the bulb or ballast. Way too much work involved there and I could easily make things worse than they already are. I did manage to open up the front of the light and it seems to be very well put together.


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## Spark Gap (Dec 27, 2007)

"I bought a 4-cell Hyperion pack from the same guys who make the Hyperion 0606i charger that I use. Pack includes balance connector". 

Kevin, where did you buy this pack? Can you provide a URL?

Tnx,

Cliff


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## KevinL (Dec 27, 2007)

Spark Gap said:


> "I bought a 4-cell Hyperion pack from the same guys who make the Hyperion 0606i charger that I use. Pack includes balance connector".
> 
> Kevin, where did you buy this pack? Can you provide a URL?
> 
> ...



http://www.skyhobbies.com.sg/A123.htm

Sky Hobbies is local to me in Singapore, so I dropped by one afternoon and 'cash and carried' all the stuff I needed including a charger and some leads. I believe they ship stuff internationally as well. Prices are in Singapore dollars, conversion rate is *approximately* 1.4:1 SG:USD. For exact rates, I use http://www.oanda.com/convert/fxhistory . Note that your credit card issuer/bank/Paypal may charge slightly different foreign exchange rates and/or additional fees. 

If you buy the Hyperion 0606i charger, you will need an additional jumper cable from the balance connector to the charger, you might want to email and ask which one it is. They told me about it when I picked up the battery.

They were quite surprised when they heard it was going into high performance lighting systems rather than the usual RC heli/car stuff


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## naicidrac (Dec 27, 2007)

OK this is awesome! As of yesterday I am the proud owner of a new Power On Board HID light too. I love this freaking thing. Now I do think this thing is heavy, and I have seen a lot of different opinions and ideas. If I wanted to make this thing lighter how would do I do it and what exactly should I buy and where. I am a semi technical guy who has a multimeter and that is about it. I don't want to burn up anything, but I would love to make this thing a little lighter. Could someone please tell exactly what to get then I could ask questions as they arise.

Thanks a ton


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## Handlobraesing (Dec 27, 2007)

IMO you're better off buying a $200-300 HID light built with Li-ion than dumping money into this thing. Regardless of any improvements you make on this light, you can't do anything about the biggest down fall, the size.


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## NeonJohn (Dec 28, 2007)

Spark Gap said:


> Hi John,
> 
> Not sure about the Milwaukee tools using LiFePO4. I heard DeWalt is using the A123 cells in their 36V line. Easy enough to check by looking at the tell-tale cell voltage. LiFePO4 should read 3.5 volts when fully charged, as opposed to 4.2 volts for typical lithium secondary cells. Ironically, DeWalt/ Black and Decker, and the Vector 'Power on Board' light are actually made by the same parent company.
> 
> Cliff



OK, I got off my duff and googled  The Milwaukee pack uses E-Moli cells. Similar nanotechnology but the terminal voltage is the same as regular LiPos. Here's the first link I found:

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=221014

One pack plus one extra cell = 14.8 volts, 6 amp-hour! Zowzer! I currently have 6 packs, each with a single bad cell. Time to get off my butt and do something with 'em. I'm fairly sure I can get two packs in my HF Orange Monster, especially if I remove the built-in charging hardware. Hmm, without doing any math, that should be 4-6 hours' run time. I can live with that.

John


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## Spark Gap (Dec 28, 2007)

Sounds like lithium cobalt or lithium manganese oxide at that voltage. I might be wrong, however I think I read somewhere that 'NanoPhosphate' is A123's trade name for their LiFePO4 composition. So, be careful when building with those cells.


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## TypeR632 (Jan 7, 2008)

For anyone that's interested I just ordered a tri-wing bit #1 from Skygeek.com. It was $4.25 with shipping, that is the cheapest I have found. I went to a couple of specialty tool stores around town and no one had them, some had never heard of such!? 

The lights states that it has a H7 bulb, so it will be interesting to see what can be done. If all I do is get a lower k bulb I will be happy. Maybe I can get one of those automotive bulbs off ebay around 12,000k and I can 'pimp my light yo':nana:


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## Handlobraesing (Jan 8, 2008)

TypeR632 said:


> For anyone that's interested I just ordered a tri-wing bit #1 from Skygeek.com. It was $4.25 with shipping, that is the cheapest I have found. I went to a couple of specialty tool stores around town and no one had them, some had never heard of such!?
> 
> The lights states that it has a H7 bulb, so it will be interesting to see what can be done. If all I do is get a lower k bulb I will be happy. Maybe I can get one of those automotive bulbs off ebay around 12,000k and I can 'pimp my light yo':nana:



If you have HarborFreight Tools nearby, you can't beat this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93388

It is Harbor Freight item, so don't expect it to be durable, but it was durable enough for me to be able to open the front bezel


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## TypeR632 (Jan 8, 2008)

Yeah, that was so stupid of me. I should have asked where to get one. I found a HF retail store about 10 miles from me. I might ride by there tomorrow and look around. Thanks for the post.


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## TypeR632 (Jan 12, 2008)

Well, I took the light apart last night. Everything comes apart nicely except for the switch, it is soldered. The bulb seems to be a H7 type bulb. I did a google and it seems this is just a automotive type bulb. Now just need to find a good 4300k. The ballast is a piece of crap. I have to be honest I don't know anything about ballasts, but this one has a cheap coating on it. 

Does anyone know anything about the circuit board inside? Would you need this if you changed the ballast and bulb. I don't care about the little leds on the side showing battery charge. Still waiting for some responses on this.


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## Stereodude (Jan 15, 2008)

You can find 35W H7 HID 4300k bulbs on ebay if you look carefully. Be aware that most of the listings do not appear to be real HID bulbs.

Edit: Has anyone swapped out the 6000k bulb in their Vector Power on Board HID for a 4300k? If so are there comparison beamshots? I'm interested to do the same, but I don't want to spend the money if there isn't much difference.


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## Handlobraesing (Jan 15, 2008)

Stereodude said:


> You can find 35W H7 HID 4300k bulbs on ebay if you look carefully. Be aware that most of the listings do not appear to be real HID bulbs.
> 
> Edit: Has anyone swapped out the 6000k bulb in their Vector Power on Board HID for a 4300k? If so are there comparison beamshots? I'm interested to do the same, but I don't want to spend the money if there isn't much difference.



Many don't have leaded connection though. You'll have to find the same H7 type, 4000 to 4300K that has the lead connection rather than socket.


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## Stereodude (Jan 15, 2008)

Handlobraesing said:


> Many don't have leaded connection though. You'll have to find the same H7 type, 4000 to 4300K that has the lead connection rather than socket.


The two different ones I've found on ebay seem to both have leads and not a socket.

link #1 link #2


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## TypeR632 (Jan 16, 2008)

The connectors in the second link pic look like the ones. There are only two wire connectors on the bulb. I know I would like to take the insulation of the wire and the outer glass. The insulation on the stock bulb feels may like it is ceramic. Maybe you could take a small pair of pliars and gently work your way up and down the wire, and the insulation would come off. I don't know, I might try it when I get another bulb.


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## plasmaman (Jan 19, 2008)

Halfway through my Vector upgrade, and test fired it today!
I bought an automotive 50w ballast kit with 50w D2S 4300K bulbs - chinese of course but nicely finished kit, leads, plugs etc from this seller
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12V-...001QQitemZ110213686312QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
25% more light output than the standard setup using the SLA battery measured on my lightboxmeterthingy, so now have to figure how to shoehorn the new ballast in there.
I will probably ditch the SLA and use 2 x 4S A123 packs from a Dewalt 36v pack. They should sit in the battery compartment nicely, and leave room for the ballast on top.


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## Quickstrike (Jan 19, 2008)

I little off-topic, but this is the most active PoB thread right now.

I have a question about the stock battery. 
Since it isn't li-ion, does it develop a "memory"?

In order to lengthen the life of the battery and avoid the "memory effect", should I run the PoB HID right down to when it shuts off?

Right now mine is at the very last red dot when I press the button to check battery life.

Should I use it till the very end of its life before I recharge? or just charge it when the battery level meter reads low (one dot)?




TIA,
-Quickstrike


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## Handlobraesing (Jan 19, 2008)

Quickstrike said:


> I little off-topic, but this is the most active PoB thread right now.
> 
> I have a question about the stock battery.
> Since it isn't li-ion, does it develop a "memory"?
> ...



Google has all the answer to this. But the answer is absolutely not!
Lead acid does not like being deeply discharged and you should keep discharges as shallow as you can and fully charge immediately after use and every couple of months of storage.


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## Xzn (Jan 19, 2008)

However, wouldn't it not really make sense to throw down that much on a $60 light?


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## Quickstrike (Jan 19, 2008)

Handlobraesing said:


> Google has all the answer to this. But the answer is absolutely not!
> Lead acid does not like being deeply discharged and you should keep discharges as shallow as you can and fully charge immediately after use and every couple of months of storage.



OK. Thanks for the info!

I have owned the light for several months now and never recharged it.

The throw is amazing, but I find 99% of the time I am in need of flood -- so this light doesn't get used very often.


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## Handlobraesing (Jan 20, 2008)

Quickstrike said:


> OK. Thanks for the info!
> 
> *I have owned the light for several months now and never recharged it.*
> 
> The throw is amazing, but I find 99% of the time I am in need of flood -- so this light doesn't get used very often.



Well you might have to replace your battery already, or very very soon considering you've already used it, yet never recharged in months.


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## Quickstrike (Jan 20, 2008)

Handlobraesing said:


> Well you might have to replace your battery already, or very very soon considering you've already used it, yet never recharged in months.



Seems to recharge to the full green-light with no problems.

I will see if the runtime has changed from the advertised specs.


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## plasmaman (Jan 25, 2008)

plasmaman said:


> Halfway through my Vector upgrade, and test fired it today!
> I bought an automotive 50w ballast kit with 50w D2S 4300K bulbs - chinese of course but nicely finished kit, leads, plugs etc from this seller
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12V-...001QQitemZ110213686312QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
> 25% more light output than the standard setup using the SLA battery measured on my lightboxmeterthingy, so now have to figure how to shoehorn the new ballast in there.
> I will probably ditch the SLA and use 2 x 4S A123 packs from a Dewalt 36v pack. They should sit in the battery compartment nicely, and leave room for the ballast on top.


 
Now this is good!
Finished the mod. Decided to stay with SLA on basis of cost and replaced the stock 12v 7a cell with 2 x 6v 3.2a cells in series. This gives room to sit the full 50w automotive ballast on top of the cells in the battery compartment. Had to dremel the ribs under the battery to find a couple of extra mm, but it all sits in there nicely.
OK I've lost capacity, but with the size of the thing I am never going far from home, so figure 45 mins runtime or so is perfectly acceptable.
Good thing is by staying with the SLA cells, the existing board wiring, lights and charging port remain, and all work fine. BTW - does anyone know what the yellow wire coming out of the original ballast is for? Mine is now disconnected.
With the 50w D2S 4300K bulb the beam is much much better, and light output is actually up by 35%!
:twothumbs


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## vetkaw63 (Jan 26, 2008)

How much did all this cost you?
Thanks,
Mike


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## plasmaman (Jan 26, 2008)

vetkaw63 said:


> How much did all this cost you?
> Thanks,
> Mike


 
Light $50, 50w HID kit $60, cells $30.


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## Kremer (Mar 3, 2008)

While not an output mod I installed a 12V lighter outlet into the triangular piece at the rear of the handle. It was a little tricky since there's not much depth in there to work with. I spliced into the battery leads after the 10A fuse that I found in the body, so the socket is protected. Now I can charge my phone or run other 12v accessories off the POB battery and also plug it into the car or one of my jumpstarter packs with a double ended 12V plug cord for nearly unlimited runtime. I also don't have to use the included charger anymore, I can just plug it into my 1A BatteryMinder for a proper trickle charge.

~Dougk


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## FelmarCorp (Mar 4, 2008)

Not sure if you consider this a mod, lol...

a cheap mod we'll say












The beams are very close together...they kind of merge at the end.
I'll get some night shots tonight!
Its freakin' bright :thumbsup:

but pretty heavy :thumbsdow


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## Kremer (Mar 4, 2008)

FelmarCorp said:


> Not sure if you consider this a mod, lol...
> a cheap mod we'll say
> he beams are very close together...they kind of merge at the end.
> I'll get some night shots tonight!
> ...



Is there a handlebar mount for that?


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## FelmarCorp (Mar 4, 2008)

Kremer said:


> Is there a handlebar mount for that?


 

nope....I just hold it by the original handle areas with both hands...it can also be held by one handle too.


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## FelmarCorp (Mar 5, 2008)

some night shots-


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## srvctec (Mar 8, 2008)

I was going to start my own thread, but decided to post my question here. I'm totally new to HID with the purchase of my 2 POB lights from Sam's.

First, an observation- both of my lights had a hazy film on both sides of the lens that I had to clean off with acetone followed by glass cleaner. Anyone else notice this on their lights?

Now for my question- I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere yet. I don't like the way the switch is so easily accidentally turned on because of it's location. Has anyone installed a switch lock out yet? I was thinking of installing a pushbutton switch in series with the power switch to open it so when the switch is accidentally turned on, the light won't actually turn on. I can't believe they didn't put a switch lock on this thing to start with. I may just completely do away with the stock switch and mount another switch somewhere else where it won't be so easily turned on by accident. Anyone else have any thoughts or ideas on this?


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## srvctec (Mar 9, 2008)

Hmmm... Maybe I should have started my own thread. Another question- anyone know how much current is going through the switch?


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## srvctec (Mar 14, 2008)

Ooooookaaaaaay- nothing like talking to myself here. Well, I figured it all out and modded my lights by putting a switch on the top of the body and leaving the stock switch disconnected. The switch I installed is a low profile rocker and is easily actuated with my thumb- no more grabbing the handle of the light and turning it on by accident. I also modded my dad's for him since he thought the stock switch location was kind of ridiculous too.

If anyone is interested the switch part number is 275-0693 from Radio Shack for about 3 bucks.

Before:






After:


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## KuoH (Mar 14, 2008)

Nice job. I agree with the poor placement of the factory switch, and now that I have a cheap spare, I might just do the same thing.

KuoH



srvctec said:


> Well, I figured it all out and modded my lights by putting a switch on the top of the body and leaving the stock switch disconnected.


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## Kremer (Mar 14, 2008)

srvctec said:


> Ooooookaaaaaay- nothing like talking to myself here. Well, I figured it all out and modded my lights by putting a switch on the top of the body and leaving the stock switch disconnected. The switch I installed is a low profile rocker and is easily actuated with my thumb- no more grabbing the handle of the light and turning it on by accident.
> 
> If anyone is interested the switch part number is 275-0693 from Radio Shack for about 3 bucks.



I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but then hooking the stock switch up to a few low power LED's somewhere, sort of N30 like.


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## CM (Mar 14, 2008)

srvctec said:


> Ooooookaaaaaay- nothing like talking to myself here. Well, I figured it all out and modded my lights by putting a switch on the top of the body and leaving the stock switch disconnected. The switch I installed is a low profile rocker and is easily actuated with my thumb- no more grabbing the handle of the light and turning it on by accident. I also modded my dad's for him since he thought the stock switch location was kind of ridiculous too.
> 
> If anyone is interested the switch part number is 275-0693 from Radio Shack for about 3 bucks.



Nice, very clean. Thanks for the info. Now off to Radio Shack I go.


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## srvctec (Mar 15, 2008)

CM said:


> Nice, very clean. Thanks for the info. Now off to Radio Shack I go.




Another tip for those interested. The switch requires a 3/4" mounting hole. I don't have any twist drill bits this large (a twist drill that large probably wouldn't be the best choice for drilling in plastic like this anyway- a holesaw would be better, but I didn't have any that small). I wound up trying a 3/4" spade wood bit with spurs on the outside edge (these are the exact set of bits I have). It worked fantastic! I just used my cordless drill at a very low speed. The plastic didn't chip or break at all around the edge of the hole during the drilling. 

I also might add that the first thing you should do after removing the head is to disconnect the battery from the circuit by removing the 10A fuse.


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## srvctec (Mar 15, 2008)

*How did you remove the rear cover??*

How in the world did you guys who have changed batteries get the rear cover off this thing? I removed the 2 screws on the round cover and the 2 on the angled cover, but nothing budges at all. I'm not willing to break it trying to remove the cover, so any tips would be great!

Never mind- I got it. Never thought they would thread the outer cover!!


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## Kremer (Mar 15, 2008)

*Re: How did you remove the rear cover??*



srvctec said:


> How in the world did you guys who have changed batteries get the rear cover off this thing? I removed the 2 screws on the round cover and the 2 on the angled cover, but nothing budges at all. I'm not willing to break it trying to remove the cover, so any tips would be great!
> 
> Never mind- I got it. Never thought they would thread the outer cover!!



Yep, the two screws. then you need to turn the rear cap. There's a line on the cap and a line on the left side of the body, 1/4 turn or so to line them up and the cap should pull off easily.


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## vetkaw63 (Mar 16, 2008)

Kremer said:


> I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but then hooking the stock switch up to a few low power LED's somewhere, sort of N30 like.



Have you thought about which driver to use?
Thanks,
Mike


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## Kremer (Mar 16, 2008)

vetkaw63 said:


> Have you thought about which driver to use?
> Thanks,
> Mike



Actually, I'm thinking hard about an automotive taillight retrofit 'bulb'. They are a little cluster of 5mm's built and ready to go for 12V hookup.


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## Flashlike (Mar 17, 2008)

Here's a wild thought--what about using a rechargeable lithium-ion battery pack such as one of these http://www.brightstar-hid.com/product_info_e.php?UID=782 in place of the 12V 7AH SLA battery in the Vector POB light? That would be much lighter in weight than the SLA battery.
It looks like they would fit in the same space, although one would probably have to reconfigure the wiring and possibly bypass the battery charge status indicator, etc. 

Also, has anyone modified the reflector so it was slightly OP (orange peel) vs. the mirror finish factory reflector? The spot would be less concentrated and not as bright, but it would probably have a super bright and smooth beam.


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## Cubman (May 22, 2009)

Can you modify a P.O.B. for continuous use off of the cig. lighter adapter?


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