# Solarforce L2 / L2P forward clicky.



## rrt0000

I've done my research on this....
So far the cheapest way to get a forward clicky "drop in replacement" for the solarforce l2/l2p are the jetbeam ones.

Can anyone confirm which version fits the L2p? I've seen conflicting reports - some suggest Jet II clicky while some suggest the Jet III version.


Thanks for your help.


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## notsobrite




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## psychbeat

Id be interested in the as well.

sorry I dont have anything to add but that I WAY 
prefer my McClicky on my C2 to the switch on my
L2P

though I like that the L2P tailstands without having to
add a delrin shroud thingy which looks a little fugly IMHO.


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## Fusion_m8

Look at the Solarforce S-series forward clickies. I'm using the S4 & S5 forward clickies and they have a nice tactile feel to them.


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## houtex

I was able to get a Electronic Guru McClicky in my L2P with a little modding. A little more $$ but worth it as far as feeling it to be more reliable.


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## Lighthearted1

Hi there. Glad to see this thread, it is timely for me.
I was looking on Lighthound at the L2P host, but the description does not say if the stock switch is forward or reverse. What does it have?


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## Black Rose

The stock switch on all the Solarforce L2* lights are reverse clickies.


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## Lighthearted1

Thanks Black Rose.

Psychbeat ....... I sent you a PM through marketplace yesterday. Please check.


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## Nouiate

Lighthearted1 said:


> Hi there. Glad to see this thread, it is timely for me.
> I was looking on Lighthound at the L2P host, but the description does not say if the stock switch is forward or reverse. What does it have?



My L2p from Lighthound last month came with a stock reverse clicky. The dodgiest component in an otherwise bombproof light, but it does tailstand well.


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## rrt0000

houtex said:


> I was able to get a Electronic Guru McClicky in my L2P with a little modding. A little more $$ but worth it as far as feeling it to be more reliable.



Can you detail what kind of modding is required?

Thanks in advance.


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## psychbeat

Lighthearted1 said:


> Thanks Black Rose.
> 
> Psychbeat ....... I sent you a PM through marketplace yesterday. Please check.



gotcha back with WAY too much info.

hehe

Maybe Ill stick a McClicky in my L2P one of these days..

its really just my beater light tho..


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## ElectronGuru

If someone has a stash of L2 tailcaps I could borrow/buy, I'd like to normalize compatibility if we can.

:thanks:


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## gcbryan

The cheapest and easiest way to put a forward clicky into any P60 host is to order the Romisen forward clicky switch from Shiningbeam for less than $2.00 each.

I'm using an Uniquefire L2 as a P60 host. I had also replaced the original tailcap covers with green GITD covers. All I had to do to go from reverse to forward clicky was to remove the aluminum retaining ring, take out the reverse clicky, take out the button cover and cut of the little "stub" on the inside and in one case there was a plastic insulator ring in the center of the aluminum ring so I popped that out and then just drop in the forward clicky.

So, it's just a direct replacement but as mentioned you may need to cut the length of the "stub" in the tailcap cover and (if you have one) pop out the plastic insulator in the center of the retaining ring and toss that.

These forward clickies seem to be well made.


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## dirtech

I have a jetIIIM clicky in mine. The fit is not perfect but works.


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## LV426

Here are 3 fwd-mods made with Romisen RC-N3 "tactical" switch.

Since this switch builds less height, it's necessary to either move it down or utilize a spacer (I moved it down). An other problem is the spring being some 6-7mm (~1/4'' inch) to short...


The standard L2:

Fitting made with o-rings, and the nipple is cut.











The 2 o-rings "on top" of the boot recesses the switch (crappy photo)







L2P:

First fitting with o-rings and cut nipple.





Second fitting made with self vulcanizing rubber tape, and no cutting of the boot


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## LV426

Fusion_m8 said:


> Look at the Solarforce S-series forward clickies. I'm using the S4 & S5 forward clickies and they have a nice tactile feel to them.


Just received the S5, and well... It's huge!
And the switch doesn't fit the L2P tail-cap...


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## Fusion_m8

Strange... it fits mine perfectly...???








LV426 said:


> Just received the S5, and well... It's huge!
> And the switch doesn't fit the L2P tail-cap...


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## LV426

Ah, sorry! The S5 tail-cap fits the flashlight, it's the switch from the S5 that doesn't fit inside the L2P tail-cap (the board diameter is a fraction of a mm to large).

Anyhow, the S5 tail-cap is huge!


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## pounder

LV426 said:


> Ah, sorry! The S5 tail-cap fits the flashlight, it's the switch from the S5 that doesn't fit inside the L2P tail-cap (the board diameter is a fraction of a mm to large).
> 
> Anyhow, the S5 tail-cap is huge!



lol it sure is..that's why I have the s3 on my L2..tried the s5 from my masterpiece on my L2 and it was as big as the head lol..


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## Fusion_m8

Thats why I only use the S5 on a 2x18650 setup for my Masterpiece Pro-I.

I remember jake25 from SB Flashlights telling us that the L2P switch is an improved version of the L2, that's why its slightly bigger and can handle more current than the L2 switch.



LV426 said:


> Ah, sorry! The S5 tail-cap fits the flashlight, it's the switch from the S5 that doesn't fit inside the L2P tail-cap (the board diameter is a fraction of a mm to large).
> 
> Anyhow, the S5 tail-cap is huge!


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## LV426

Fusion_m8 said:


> I remember jake25 from SB Flashlights telling us that the L2P switch is an improved version of the L2, that's why its slightly bigger and can handle more current than the L2 switch.



Possibly... But still not a fwd clicky.


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## ElectronGuru

psychbeat said:


> I WAY prefer my McClicky on my C2 to the switch on my L2P





houtex said:


> I was able to get a Electronic Guru McClicky in my L2P with a little modding.



Two test tailcaps showed up today. One, a Solarforce and the other a Ultrafire (tailstanding). The primary design obstacles are the pocket of extra length at the bottom of these caps and the lack of threading cut into this area. Starting with standard Z41 McClicky kits, the Ultrafire cap works with the addition of one new part and the modification of another. The Solarforce cap requires three extra parts to fill its deeper gap.

I'll try them out over the weekend, then send them back to their owner for longer term trials.


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## rrt0000

ElectronGuru said:


> Two test tailcaps showed up today. One, a Solarforce and the other a Ultrafire (tailstanding). The primary design obstacles are the pocket of extra length at the bottom of these caps and the lack of threading cut into this area. Starting with standard Z41 McClicky kits, the Ultrafire cap works with the addition of one new part and the modification of another. The Solarforce cap requires three extra parts to fill its deeper gap.
> 
> I'll try them out over the weekend, then send them back to their owner for longer term trials.




That's good news. So basically all that needs to be done is to stack washers on the end so that the switch is not as deep inside the tailcap?


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## jake25

Fusion_m8 said:


> Thats why I only use the S5 on a 2x18650 setup for my Masterpiece Pro-I.
> 
> I remember jake25 from SB Flashlights telling us that the L2P switch is an improved version of the L2, that's why its slightly bigger and can handle more current than the L2 switch.


I don't remember myself saying that, however I could be wrong. Right now I don't know if it can or can not take more current than the L2-S1. Just to keep the record clear!


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## ElectronGuru

rrt0000 said:


> So basically all that needs to be done is to stack washers on the end so that the switch is not as deep inside the tailcap?



Nearly so. The switch (encased inside the brass ring) goes as far into the cap as the threads allow. Once in this position, the fixed space between the switch and boot must be filled. Enough (around the center) that the boot's flange is pressed against the caps opening but not so much that the button (in the center) holds the switch on. Ideally, such a configuration would do all this, keep out water, and survive many thousands of operations without adjustment.


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## ace0001a

ElectronGuru said:


> Nearly so. The switch (encased inside the brass ring) goes as far into the cap as the threads allow. Once in this position, the fixed space between the switch and boot must be filled. Enough (around the center) that the boot's flange is pressed against the caps opening but not so much that the button (in the center) holds the switch on. Ideally, such a configuration would do all this, keep out water, and survive many thousands of operations without adjustment.



This just goes to show how much unnecessary space there is in the Solarforce tailcap. While it has been a functional design for them, I always felt that it made their tailcap bigger than it needed to be. The Solarforce L2P tailcap is more of the same sizewise, just that they put a lip around the button and chose a flatter button to allow for tailstanding.


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## gcbryan

Is the Solarforce tailcap any deeper than any other 6P clone?

I have the Surefire 6P but I also have the Uniquefire L2 which I think is similar to the Solarforce L2. I'm just trying to figure out what the issue is here with too much space and what the issue is with forward clickies?

As I mentioned earlier (I thinK) I've used a $2 forward clicky and I think it's the same one in the pictures earlier in this post. What is the issue (problem) with those? Many people seem to be looking for forward clickies and now they are available for $2.00. Is there still a problem?

I know Solarforce has a hugh tailcap with forward clicky that they sell but the problem can be addressed for $2.00 and in the case of the Uniquefire L2 tailstanding is still preserved for those interested in that.

One more comment/question...other than for plumbers what is the big attraction of tailstanding? Is this something that most of you do with your lights? It's only come in handy for me once so I'm curious as to what the most common circumstance is for tailstanding.


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## ace0001a

gcbryan said:


> Is the Solarforce tailcap any deeper than any other 6P clone?
> 
> I have the Surefire 6P but I also have the Uniquefire L2 which I think is similar to the Solarforce L2. I'm just trying to figure out what the issue is here with too much space and what the issue is with forward clickies?
> 
> As I mentioned earlier (I thinK) I've used a $2 forward clicky and I think it's the same one in the pictures earlier in this post. What is the issue (problem) with those? Many people seem to be looking for forward clickies and now they are available for $2.00. Is there still a problem?
> 
> I know Solarforce has a hugh tailcap with forward clicky that they sell but the problem can be addressed for $2.00 and in the case of the Uniquefire L2 tailstanding is still preserved for those interested in that.
> 
> One more comment/question...other than for plumbers what is the big attraction of tailstanding? Is this something that most of you do with your lights? It's only come in handy for me once so I'm curious as to what the most common circumstance is for tailstanding.



From what I can tell if the Uniquefire L2's tailcap is that it looks the same size as the Solarforce L2 Standard and L2P tailcap. If you compare all these clone tailcaps to an actual Surefire 6P's Z41 twisty tailcap as well as the Surefire 6PD's Z59 tailcap, the clones are about 1/4" longer.

Does the Uniquefire L2's tailcap screw into the Surefire 6P? Ultrafire's 6P clones aren't thread compatible. I figured Uniquefire would be the same case. The only Ultrafire Surefire clone that is thread compatible is the Ultrafire C1, which is a clone of the Surefire C2. The Ultrafire C1's tailcap is about the same length as the Surefire Z59 tailcap and it's able to tailstand.

As for tailstanding, I think it boils down to preference. Depending on the design of the tailcap, some tailstanders are harder to press and some people don't like that. My sense is that more people like than don't like it. For me, I like to tailstand my flashlights to illuminate a room. I've used flashlights on my nightstand in such a way as well. In power outage situations, I've put my flashlights on super low mode and tailstand them. So basically that's the practical use for them...but again I also think it boils down to preference as well.


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## Black Rose

ace0001a said:


> If you compare all these clone tailcaps to an actual Surefire 6P's Z41 twisty tailcap as well as the Surefire 6PD's Z59 tailcap, the clones are about 1/4" longer.








From L to R:
Surefire Z41, Solarforce L2-S1, Solarforce L2P tailcap


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## ace0001a

Just received back my 2 Oveready McClicky upgraded Solarforce and Ultrafire tailcaps today. ElectronGuru did a fantastic job on these tailcaps as they both work superbly. Knowing how sensitive the standard McClicky switches are, I always found it a challenge to get the pressure response just right when I tried to do my own hacker mods with them...but these two I got back work just like I'd expect from a professional upgrade job. So here are some pics with me testing them on my Gunmetal Grey Solarforce L2:


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## ace0001a

Here are pictures of the upgraded tailcaps taken apart:










Anyone looking to get the best quality upgrade for their Solarforce and other Surefire C/P format/clone flashlight tailcaps, I highly recommend ElectronGuru's McClicky upgrade kit.


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## rrt0000

So are L2P McClicky kits available from ElectronGuru now?

Does the McClicky spring allow 18650 to be used properly? the spring seems a bit short.


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## ElectronGuru

rrt0000 said:


> Does the McClicky spring allow 18650 to be used properly? the spring seems a bit short.



The majority of the hundreds of kits in the wild are used with 18650's every day. 

Its still very early in the Solarforce process, but here's a McClicky setup in between two standard Surefire tailcaps:









rrt0000 said:


> So are L2P McClicky kits available from ElectronGuru now?



Sorry for the confusion. The setup shown above is a preliminary test configuration. 

We are engineering a 'production' configuration and hope to have it ready in July.


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## ace0001a

rrt0000 said:


> So are L2P McClicky kits available from ElectronGuru now?
> 
> Does the McClicky spring allow 18650 to be used properly? the spring seems a bit short.



In my testing so far, I find that the combination of stiff spring from the McClicky switch itself along with the brass ring work excellently in both the upgraded standard Solarforce and Ultrafire tailcaps I got from ElectronGuru. I too believe the weakest part of Solarforce L2 flashlights is the switch, which itself has a mushy spring when compared to the McClicky.

I've also found that the McClicky is well suited for flashlights with recessed buttons due to it's sensitivity. For example in the Ultrafire tailcap, it is much easier to press than before. Granted this is the issue with tailstandable tailcaps that aren't scalloped, but to me it never really bothered me that they're harder to press before...but now with a McClicky kit installed into the Ultrafire tailcap, it works great and adds tailstandability to a regular Solarforce L2 flashlight as well as being 1/4" shorter.


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## LV426

Really looking forward to the release of your upgrade, ElectronGuru!


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## psychbeat

me too!

I have a McClicky in my C2 but after BIG Cs test results
on my module comparing the the brass McClicky to another
switch the lumens were higher with the Mc.

I usually use that module in my L2P so Id def benefit from
the lower resistance- tho the test didnt compare the resistance
of the L2P clicky - Im assuming the Mc is better.

Ive also got to try some of my deoxit pro gold that I 
usually use on the tube sockets of my amps- hadnt thought
of using it on my flashlights!

here's what Im talking about:


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## ElectronGuru

psychbeat said:


> comparing the brass McClicky to another
> switch the lumens were higher with the Mc.



The McClicky has a unique design, where power is routed through a connecting rod, which is raised and lowered like a gate. This single feature gives it high power handling and low resistance. Moddoo did some resistance testing and found these output numbers (relative to 12 gauge wire):

Percentage of lux:
Wire (6 inch 12 gauge) = 100%
Fluke/heavy leads (5.04A)= 98%
McClicky kit in Z41 (new) = 92%
Surefire Z59 clicky (new) = 90.6%
Surefire Z41 twisty (new) = 79.6%


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## kosPap

Now I know I am not crazy observing less light in my MC-E mods with the Z41!


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## Black Rose

Wow, that's a lot of power loss on the Z41.

Hmmmm...I think I'm going to have to pony up some $$$ this year and get a McClicky upgrade for my Z41 and the kit for the Solarforce L2/L2P tailcaps when it becomes available.


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## kosPap

if you want a percentage I think my loss was about 10% in amp draw


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## rrt0000

Just put in a Jet III forward clicky into my L2p.

The way i've done it is to:
1) Cut nib off existing tailcap boot.
2) Add thick O-Ring to switch module (so that a washer can sit higher up on the switch).

The fit is perfect in my L2p - allowing tailstanding.

Will add pictures tomorrow when I have time


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## rrt0000

Perfect fit for l2p


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## ace0001a

rrt0000 said:


> Just put in a Jet III forward clicky into my L2p.
> 
> The way i've done it is to:
> 1) Cut nib off existing tailcap boot.
> 2) Add thick O-Ring to switch module (so that a washer can sit higher up on the switch).
> 
> The fit is perfect in my L2p - allowing tailstanding.
> 
> Will add pictures tomorrow when I have time



Nice mod...I thought about doing something like this myself, but to me the McClicky switch is arguably the best on the market. If high end custom flashlight makers like Arcmania use them, that says alot about the switch. Plus the brass ring used in ElectronGuru's McClicky upgrade kit does an excellent job in securing the switch as well as having excellent conductive properties.


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## phreeflow

gcbryan said:


> The cheapest and easiest way to put a forward clicky into any P60 host is to order the Romisen forward clicky switch from Shiningbeam for less than $2.00 each....
> These forward clickies seem to be well made.



Did you get the Romisen RC-G2 or the RC-F4 forward switch from ShiningBeam? I'm assuming the RC-G2 version since you mentioned you got it for less than $2.00. Any idea what type of current draw this thing can take?...meaning, do you think it can handle an SST-50 or MCE dropin? 

Also, anyone know how it compares to the Jetbeam forward clickies from BugOutGear? They state that these were built to handle up to 3 Amps of current.

I'm sure the McClickies are nice but I'd like to overhaul over a dozen lights and that would break my budget.


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## kosPap

the Jetbeam uses the FWD Clickie Fenix & Dereeliht use and it is really good at 3amps. 
see this https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/278103


And it can be found in Kasidomain too...There are ways to install it...make a search for.


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## LV426

rrt0000 said:


> Just put in a Jet III forward clicky into my L2p.


Where did you get it?


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## fatmother123

phreeflow said:


> Did you get the Romisen RC-G2 or the RC-F4 forward switch from ShiningBeam? I'm assuming the RC-G2 version since you mentioned you got it for less than $2.00. Any idea what type of current draw this thing can take?...meaning, do you think it can handle an SST-50 or MCE dropin?
> 
> Also, anyone know how it compares to the Jetbeam forward clickies from BugOutGear? They state that these were built to handle up to 3 Amps of current.
> 
> I'm sure the McClickies are nice but I'd like to overhaul over a dozen lights and that would break my budget.


http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-93/Forward-Tactical-Click-Switch/Detail

As far as I can tell, the weak point on this thing is the spring. It's way too short for use in an L2P without modification, and it's flimsy compared to the stock L2P switch.

Not bad for the price though. I wouldn't run an 5A SST-50 through it, but it should be fine for low, medium-current applications. Maybe more if you reinforced the spring contact.

$1.35 "Forward Tactical Click Switch for Romisen RC-G2" on the left; Stock L2P switch unit on the right:






Be prepared to compensate for stack height differential. If you want to use the washer from the stock L2P tailcap, you'll need to open up the inner diameter of the washer a millimeter or so to fit. Use the stock L2P retaining ring - the inner nylon should pull right out.


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## recDNA

Can I buy a McClicky already installed in a Surefire Z41 aluminum (preferably gunmetal color) tailcap from Oveready or do I have to send them my tailcap (leaving me in the dark!)?

Any reason NOT to put a Nitrolon McClicky tailcap on an aluminum 6P (other than aesthetics)?


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## fatmother123

fatmother123 said:


> http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-93/Forward-Tactical-Click-Switch/Detail
> 
> Be prepared to compensate for stack height differential.


So tonight I figured out how to compensate for the spring height with an extra spring and a spare screw...











Add a little silicone or epoxy or solder or whathaveyou to lock everything in to place and voila. As far as I can tell, a screw has less resistance than thin spring coils, so that's a plus.


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## ace0001a

recDNA said:


> Can I buy a McClicky already installed in a Surefire Z41 aluminum (preferably gunmetal color) tailcap from Oveready or do I have to send them my tailcap (leaving me in the dark!)?
> 
> Any reason NOT to put a Nitrolon McClicky tailcap on an aluminum 6P (other than aesthetics)?



That I'm not sure. My guess is if they have gunmetal Z41 tailcaps available, I'm sure you can just buy it from them. Otherwise, it doesn't look all that hard to just buy the McClicky kit and install it yourself. As for the second question, never tried it myself.


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## scarto44

fatmother123 said:


> So tonight I figured out how to compensate for the spring height with an extra spring and a spare screw...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add a little silicone or epoxy or solder or whathaveyou to lock everything in to place and voila. As far as I can tell, a screw has less resistance than thin spring coils, so that's a plus.



Innovative, any rattling?


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## LV426

I've made a battery extension (prototype) of a copper-pipe holder, copper wire and some sleeping-mat closed foam; height is ~8mm. It's not pretty , but works great.


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## MR.A

Very good to know all this. I have the L2 and i would like to clean theads and tailcap.


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## LV426

Just found this on the Solarforce site:







> - Standard clicky switch assembly (momentary on with a slight press, constant on after a click)
> - Able to withstand up to approximately 3 amp current.
> - Body made of aluminum alloy in Mil-spec type III hard anodized (black colour).
> - Self-defensive design
> - Able to stand stably on its end.
> - Golden spring.
> - Length x diameter (mm): 39.5 x 25.5
> - Weight (g): 19


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## wedersonsilva

LV426 said:


> Just found this on the Solarforce site:



The name of this switch is L2-S6, but how can we have it??
It seems to pair with the matte black of L2P.


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## ace0001a

LV426 said:


> Just found this on the Solarforce site:



Yeah to my understanding, this new tailcap has been in development for a few a while now...probably ever since they came out with the L2P. I guess it takes a good amount of time to go from idea conception to development to actual production. I've been looking for a great Surefire C/P compatible tailcap for a while now and it looks like Solarforce is finally making that happen. Now if they could only find a way to use the McClicky switch, then it would be even more awesome.


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## kosPap

that is good news....

anyone want to bet what switch is inside?


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## LV426

Well... I can _*tell*_ you in about a week!


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## wedersonsilva

LV426 said:


> Well... I can _*tell*_ you in about a week!



Will you buy it?
From where???

I just wanna know when Ebay sellers will have it to sell.


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## LV426

I contacted one of the dealers from the Solarforce web site (the one in HK), and got a PayPal-invoice.


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## wedersonsilva

Good news!

How much is it??


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## LV426

USD15 incl. postage.


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## recDNA

The key question is will this clicky be offered as an option for L2 and L2p.

BTW, why hope for a McClicky upgrade? Why not hope the new clicky is as good. Now I agree that it probably won't be but Solarforce is certainly technically able to produce a high qualityr forward clicky.


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## mandrake

Can you be more specific, maybe a link?
I went here:
*International Trading Company*
www.internationaltradingcompany.net/ 

All that they have listed is the L2-S5 in forward clicky switches.

I would buy one to try if I could locate one!

Phil




LV426 said:


> I contacted one of the dealers from the Solarforce web site (the one in HK), and got a PayPal-invoice.


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## LV426

I just sent them an email and asked if I could buy one from them (since I've had business with them before).

There are some on their eBay shop now...


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## bspofford

Lighthound has three styles of forward clicky tailcaps, and they're all HA-III in black to match the L2P black. Each is $8.99 which is less than other retailers in the US and China. If you buy some other stuff, you can also get free shipping.


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## ace0001a

recDNA said:


> The key question is will this clicky be offered as an option for L2 and L2p.
> 
> BTW, why hope for a McClicky upgrade? Why not hope the new clicky is as good. Now I agree that it probably won't be but Solarforce is certainly technically able to produce a high qualityr forward clicky.



Oh I'm sure the Solarforce one will be of good quality. I doubt they'll use a brass ring inside for it and the McClicky switch itself is just arguably the best forward clicky switch on the market as many here will attest to. Not knocking Solarforce's efforts, just thinking like a flashlight connoisseur.


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## recDNA

ace0001a said:


> Oh I'm sure the Solarforce one will be of good quality. I doubt they'll use a brass ring inside for it and the McClicky switch itself is just arguably the best forward clicky switch on the market as many here will attest to. Not knocking Solarforce's efforts, just thinking like a flashlight connoisseur.


 
Oh I know McClicky is the best...as is just about everything Oveready sells..but I was hoping Solarforce would use brass. I've seen other clickies that do.

The day the forward clicky in that picture comes out with the L2p is the day I buy one. I have an L2 and I'm happy with that until/unless the forward clicky becomes an option. My L2 is gunmetal as is my 6p so I wouldn't add a black tail to it. I like shiny things. The L2p with forward clicky would convince me to buy a black one though...and give me an excuse to buy another P60 drop in. Maybe an SST-90.


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## wedersonsilva

LV426 said:


> I just sent them an email and asked if I could by one from them (since I've had business with them before).
> 
> There are some on their eBay shop now...



Thanks for warning about the ebay.
I think I'll buy it from the same seller I bought the Host... (itc_shop)
Only $11,90 with free shipping.

But i'm not that happy. The stock switch is much more beautiful than the L2-S6.


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## recDNA

bspofford said:


> Lighthound has three styles of forward clicky tailcaps, and they're all HA-III in black to match the L2P black. Each is $8.99 which is less than other retailers in the US and China. If you buy some other stuff, you can also get free shipping.


 
I only saw one and it was huge. Any that are smaller?


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## arek98

McClicky fits L2P. You need tactical 16mm tailcap but it fits. I bougth this, and set includes some tactical caps and they are ok. I wish that I could find black one but till then I wil live with green .


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## wedersonsilva

arek98 said:


> McClicky fits L2P. You need tactical 16mm tailcap but it fits. I bougth this, and set includes some tactical caps and they are ok. I wish that I could find black one but till then I wil live with green .



That 14mm tailcaps from DX doesn't fit the McClicky?


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## wedersonsilva

Can someone tell me if the stock switch will work with a LF IMR-9 drop-in powered by 2x AW IMR16340?

And what about the new L2-S6 switch using the same setup?


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## recDNA

If the 9 is for 9 amps it won't. How many amps does it pull?


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## wedersonsilva

I read ~2,5 amps at CPF


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## LV426

wedersonsilva said:


> But i'm not that happy. The stock switch is much more beautiful than the L2-S6.


Well... for $2 + postage and some change, you could easily just upgraded it - there guides/threads enough around for that.

Or done it with a McClicky...


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

*How about a Solarforce L2R forward clicky?*

Can someone could identify a forward-clickie for the L2R (2xAA)? I tried the Romisen 2AA switch; it didn't thread.


----------



## arek98

wedersonsilva said:


> That 14mm tailcaps from DX doesn't fit the McClicky?


 
Remember that rubber/silicone boot has to fit McClicky AND particular tailcap. Assuming the same tube diameter 14mm will fit McClicky let say in Surfire C2, L2P has bigger hole in tailcap. 14mm and 16mm refers to diameter of this hole. 
 
Description of those is usually not very detailed, and it may be hard to tell if it will fit. I bought set from Shiningbeam hoping that they will fit and they do (3 of them, called "tactical" - they have less protrusion inside where rubber touches switch - forward clicky is taller than reverse).


----------



## wedersonsilva

LV426 said:


> Well... for $2 + postage and some change, you could easily just upgraded it - there guides/threads enough around for that.
> 
> Or done it with a McClicky...



The new switch seems to be easier to go "momentary on/on" than the stock one.
I should take it from ebay soon!

But I plain to change the reverse of the stock to a forward, so then I'll choose what is the best of them...

What's the easiest and the cheapest way to change the reverse click for a forward in the stock switch?


----------



## LV426

wedersonsilva said:


> What's the easiest and the cheapest way to change the reverse click for a forward in the stock switch?



Just take a look at page 1 and 2 in this thread.


----------



## mandrake

Do you mean that the McClicky actually screws into the existing threads in the L2P tailcap? There is no spacer needed under it, no retaining ring on top of it? All I need it to get the proper 16mm switch cover, screw the McClicky in and I am done??

I think that it what you are saying, but I am just making sure before I go and spend $40.

Phil




arek98 said:


> McClicky fits L2P. You need tactical 16mm tailcap but it fits. I bougth this, and set includes some tactical caps and they are ok. I wish that I could find black one but till then I wil live with green .


----------



## arek98

mandrake said:


> Do you mean that the McClicky actually screws into the existing threads in the L2P tailcap? There is no spacer needed under it, no retaining ring on top of it? All I need it to get the proper 16mm switch cover, screw the McClicky in and I am done??
> 
> I think that it what you are saying, but I am just making sure before I go and spend $40.
> 
> Phil


 
Yes, that's what I did. McClicky with Oveready brass adapter fits into my L2P without any additional parts. Only rubber boot and McClicky inside. I have another L2P and I can check if it screws right in as well. I’m saying that because I have extension tube (meant for L2) and it fits only one of my L2Ps, which is strange because I can exchange tailcaps between them and they fit both ways.

McClicky + brass adapter is $21 @ Oveready. Looks like they may be out of them right now, since only preinstalled options are available. You can give them a call and ask if you can buy only switch.


----------



## mandrake

I have written to Dan, it seems the web site is forcing the purchase of the tailcap. It is being fixed.
On more question, did you try using the stock switch cover and trimming it? 
I have a grey Lp2 and it has a matching boot (switch cover). I know that the "post" in the stock cover would have to be trimmed... just a thought.

I also will be real interested to see if the McClicky plus brass screws into your other LP2.

Phil



arek98 said:


> Yes, that's what I did. McClicky with Oveready brass adapter fits into my L2P without any additional parts. Only rubber boot and McClicky inside. I have another L2P and I can check if it screws right in as well. I’m saying that because I have extension tube (meant for L2) and it fits only one of my L2Ps, which is strange because I can exchange tailcaps between them and they fit both ways.
> 
> McClicky + brass adapter is $21 @ Oveready. Looks like they may be out of them right now, since only preinstalled options are available. You can give them a call and ask if you can buy only switch.


----------



## arek98

I tried and McClicky with brass adapter fits in both my L2Ps. And my two L2Ps are different. I didn't notice until now that one tailcap is longer and it seems that difference is in how deep switch sits. See pictures (they are not very good but I tried my best with my point and shoot camera).

I didn't try trimming stock boot but looking at it, seem there is no chance. Protrusion is smaller in green one but also it is deeper. I measured stock one being 5.3mm deep and green 6.9mm :sigh:. I feel what you mean. I don't really like this green as well. If you find black one or gray please let me know.

EDIT: I'm looking at those two tailcaps and it seems like longer one is newer. It tail stands better and it seems like it is coated inside (it is yellowish) for corrosion protection.

Some pictures of McClicky and stock switch. Note that stock needs a washer between switch and boot, McClicky is flat enough to fit well without it.


----------



## mandrake

Wow, thanks for doing that. Pics are darn good actually! I ordered the McClicky. Will see how it goes. Definitely will let you know if I find black or grey switch covers.
Interesting that you got two different tail caps...

Phil


----------



## LV426

*Re: How about a Solarforce L2R forward clicky?*



Paul_in_Maryland said:


> Can someone could identify a forward-clickie for the L2R (2xAA)? I tried the Romisen 2AA switch; it didn't thread.



That's annoying, isn't it!



LV426 said:


> LV426 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hi-jack this excellent thread!
> Any idea on swapping the reverse switch on the L2R to a fwd (no soldering)?
> I've used some "Romisens" on my 3 L2/L2Ps...
> 
> 
> 
> Well... Did it my self on a light for a good friend.
> 
> The ø on the Romisen fwd-switch is the same as the inner ø in the tail-cap - but of course, not the same threading!
> 
> After some file-work the threads on the switch were removed, and it could be mounted with some Nyogel and aluminium foil.
> 
> Beware: the plastic retaining ring is but a joke... So don't over stress it.
Click to expand...


----------



## mandrake

Good call on the "no chance" of the stock switch cover working!

I got my McCliky plus brass switch. I decided to try it with the stock switch cover or boot, or tailcap...whatever we decide to call it. It can't work. Just as you showed in your pics, it is not deep enough. I went through all of my parts looking for a 16 mm cover. I found one from my Speer. It has no post inside at all, but is about the same depth of the L2P boot. I tried it, but no go also. The problem is that neither of these talcaps allow enough travel to let the McClicky work. 

I have done a bunch of searching and find nothing other than the ones that Brian has at Shiningbeam. NOtHING found in black, anywhere !
I am sure that these will not allow tail stand with the L2P. Maybe that is why Solarforce built the S6 switch inside of the "Tactical" cage like they did ?? No way to get the needed travel to make a forward clicky work with the shallow stock boot on the L2P.

If anybody reading this has a source for 16mm black switch covers, please let us all know where they can be found !!

:shrug:

BTW, the McClicky plus brass does indeed thread perfectly into both of the tailcaps for either of my L2Ps. 

Phil




arek98 said:


> I tried and McClicky with brass adapter fits in both my L2Ps. And my two L2Ps are different. I didn't notice until now that one tailcap is longer and it seems that difference is in how deep switch sits. See pictures (they are not very good but I tried my best with my point and shoot camera).
> 
> I didn't try trimming stock boot but looking at it, seem there is no chance. Protrusion is smaller in green one but also it is deeper. I measured stock one being 5.3mm deep and green 6.9mm :sigh:. I feel what you mean. I don't really like this green as well. If you find black one or gray please let me know.


----------



## LV426

Can't you just put a spacer between the cover and the switch?
Isn't that what ElectronGuru indicated in a previous post in this thread?


----------



## dsche

Well, I've just make my own forward-clicky for L2P from KD switch:














It's work


----------



## ace0001a

Guess you guys forgot to look at my previous post...the solution Electronguru did was to put an o-ring on the button itself. As you can see in the pictures, it works like a charm:



ace0001a said:


> Here are pictures of the upgraded tailcaps taken apart:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone looking to get the best quality upgrade for their Solarforce and other Surefire C/P format/clone flashlight tailcaps, I highly recommend ElectronGuru's McClicky upgrade kit.


----------



## wedersonsilva

dsche said:


> Well, I've just make my own forward-clicky for L2P from KD switch:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's work




WOWWW!!

What is that white ring in the pic?


----------



## dsche

wedersonsilva said:


> WOWWW!!
> 
> What is that white ring in the pic?


 
From a chemist's vial I think (found it outdoors and it's fitted well :naughty


----------



## wedersonsilva

you done all the work without use the stock switch?


----------



## mandrake

I will give that a try. I am sceptical that it will work. At first I thought that I could make it work just by adjusting how far that I screwed the switch into the tailcap. This would have the same effect as using a spacer. The problem was that there is just not enough travel in the stock switch boot. If I adjusted so that the light was not always on, and I could get momentary on to work, I could not push far enough to click the switch for constant on. I think a deeper boot is the only answer.

Phil




LV426 said:


> Can't you just put a spacer between the cover and the switch?
> Isn't that what ElectronGuru indicated in a previous post in this thread?


----------



## mandrake

Can you tell us the SKU number for that switch at KD?

Thanks,
Phil




dsche said:


> Well, I've just make my own forward-clicky for L2P from KD switch:
> It's work


----------



## recDNA

I hope somebody bumps this thread when a local dealer gets the new sf clicky


----------



## mandrake

I do too. I talked (or wrote actually) to Dan at Oveready and assked about their kit for the L2P. He said that it had been delayed due to their volume of work. He thought that they might be able to start developement in August and have something ready by September.

I ordered a couple of the new forward clickies from Solarforce. I will be interested to see how they work. My problem is that the two L2Ps that I have are gray and they only offer the switches in a BLACK tailcap. I am also not wild about the style of the new tailcaps 


Phil




recDNA said:


> I hope somebody bumps this thread when a local dealer gets the new sf clicky


----------



## dsche

wedersonsilva said:


> you done all the work without use the stock switch?



Yes 



mandrake said:


> Can you tell us the SKU number for that switch at KD?
> 
> Thanks,
> Phil



*Phil*, SKU for 5x is *S005339 *(there is 1x version with SKU *S005340*); I noticed it's the same as Nitecore uses in their Extreme Inf


----------



## wedersonsilva

Is it possible to change only the button in the stock switch? (without do any changes in the spring or base)

I just want to replace the button, I don't wanna make another switch.


----------



## dsche

wedersonsilva said:


> Is it possible to change only the button in the stock switch? (without do any changes in the spring or base)


 
It's possible I think (but you need to find new thicker metal ring (second on the pic) because forward-click swiches higher than reverse ones)


----------



## wedersonsilva

Someone told you can use an o-ring to fix it, that's right?


----------



## ace0001a

mandrake said:


> I do too. I talked (or wrote actually) to Dan at Oveready and assked about their kit for the L2P. He said that it had been delayed due to their volume of work. He thought that they might be able to start developement in August and have something ready by September.
> 
> I ordered a couple of the new forward clickies from Solarforce. I will be interested to see how they work. My problem is that the two L2Ps that I have are gray and they only offer the switches in a BLACK tailcap. I am also not wild about the style of the new tailcaps
> 
> 
> Phil



To each their own I guess, but personally I think the new tailcaps coming out are really cool looking. I've always been a fan of the scalloped look and not to mention making it easier to press a tailstandable tailcap. Also, I believe they adjusted the size of the tailcap as it is smaller than all of their current tailcaps. I do like the stock tailcap on the L2P, but find it to be bigger than it needs to be. If you take a Surefire Z59 tailcap and add a shroud (scalloped or flat) around the button, that is the size the tailcap should be in my opinion. With the new tailcap Solarforce is releasing, they are addressing the flaws of their previous tailcap designs as they've taken much input from people and noticed other similar trends with tailcaps in the design of their new one.


----------



## dsche

wedersonsilva said:


> Someone told you can use an o-ring to fix it, that's right?



extra o-ring may be OK too


----------



## kosPap

mandrake said:


> I ordered a couple of the new forward clickies from Solarforce. I will be interested to see how they work. My problem is that the two L2Ps that I have are gray and they only offer the switches in a BLACK tailcap. I am also not wild about the style of the new tailcaps
> Phil


 
well why don't you swap insides when the new tailcap arrives? 
or you can wait for a second batch of my mod,, with new booties included.
The issue is that the L2P is the proper length, the L2 being abit longish.
A buyer that did this mod found that placing the KD switch even with the bootie post removed, steals 1+mm from the tailcap travel...if you use a belt clip that evens it out.



dsche said:


> *Phil*, SKU for 5x is *S005339 *(there is 1x version with SKU *S005340*); I noticed it's the same as Nitecore uses in their Extreme Inf


 
Caution! the 5340 is not a forward clickie..it is a Reverse! 
The switch 5339 is also used from Jeteam, Fenix and 4Sevens


----------



## dsche

kosPap said:


> well why don't you swap insides when the new tailcap arrives?


 
I've try it with old caps

Clickers was very, very big :huh:









kosPap said:


> Caution! the 5340 is not a forward clickie..it is a Reverse!


 
I've bought both; the 5340 arrives to me was same as 5339 (maybe due mistake, who knows)


----------



## LV426

*The Solarforce L2-S6*

The switch is rather hard, much stiffer than the Romisen-switch, and the PTS-3.












*And yes, its a 14mm boot!*







*And the "entrails" *


----------



## wedersonsilva

WOWWW!!
A PTS-3 and a L2-S6 together....you're a really lucky guy!!!:twothumbs

I'll be so happy if you decide to show all your L2P setups!


----------



## recDNA

I've never heard of a PTS-3


----------



## LV426

*PTS-3 bonus picture -->*


----------



## ace0001a

Just got my L2-S6 today as well...that was fast service and apparently ITC Shop IS the official Solarforce dealer on ebay now (although other dealers there do sell them). I notice the switch being nice and firm, which is either something people will like or not. I was told the switch would be smaller, but in actuality, it is the same size as the switch that comes with the L2P...so I was a bit disappointed on that detail. So my quest to find the perfect Surefire C/P format tailcap continues. I do commend Solarforce on their efforts though...just wished they would've actually made a smaller tailcap this time. Also for those who like this tailcap design, I am sure the Oveready McClicky kit would fit in the L2-S6...granted there wouldn't be much of a need to do so since it comes already as a forward clicky, but would be an upgrade for those who demand higher quality in the switch and retaining ring part of the tailcap (which is what you would get going with the McClicky kit).


----------



## mandrake

Apparently the S6 switch uses a 14 mm boot. I guess that this means the guts will not transfer, at least without finding a suitable 16 mm boot for the stock L2P tailcap. 
That seems to be the curent problem. I have searched for hours and can't find anything in black that will work.

I am real interested in your second batch of mods. I guess I missed the first batch and any info on it:mecry:. Where can I find more information?

Phil



kosPap said:


> well why don't you swap insides when the new tailcap arrives?
> or you can wait for a second batch of my mod,, with new booties included.
> The issue is that the L2P is the proper length, the L2 being abit longish.


----------



## mandrake

Obviuosly some disagree, but I am not thrilled with the S6 design. I am happy that the total length of the tailcap is not significantly longer than the L2p stock tailcap. It is also not good for me that they don't make it in gray, even though they sell the L2p in gray. I have two gray hosts that I really like, just wish I coulf find a matching forward clicky or mod the two hosts to work with some forward clicky switchs, and not screw up the looks and tail standing ability...

I have an SST-50 dropin for one of my L2P hosts. If the McClicky fits in the S6 and works, the current handling improvement will be worth the effort!

Even more true if I decide to get the SST-90 version!

I ordered two from ITC, we will see when they get here. Worst case I can use them for a couple of my L2 hosts. 

Phil



ace0001a said:


> Just got my L2-S6 today as well...that was fast service and apparently ITC Shop IS the official Solarforce dealer on ebay now (although other dealers there do sell them). I notice the switch being nice and firm, which is either something people will like or not. I was told the switch would be smaller, but in actuality, it is the same size as the switch that comes with the L2P...so I was a bit disappointed on that detail. So my quest to find the perfect Surefire C/P format tailcap continues. I do commend Solarforce on their efforts though...just wished they would've actually made a smaller tailcap this time. Also for those who like this tailcap design, I am sure the Oveready McClicky kit would fit in the L2-S6...granted there wouldn't be much of a need to do so since it comes already as a forward clicky, but would be an upgrade for those who demand higher quality in the switch and retaining ring part of the tailcap (which is what you would get going with the McClicky kit).


----------



## ace0001a

mandrake said:


> Obviuosly some disagree, but I am not thrilled with the S6 design. I am happy that the total length of the tailcap is not significantly longer than the L2p stock tailcap. It is also not good for me that they don't make it in gray, even though they sell the L2p in gray. I have two gray hosts that I really like, just wish I coulf find a matching forward clicky or mod the two hosts to work with some forward clicky switchs, and not screw up the looks and tail standing ability...
> I have an SST-50 dropin for one of my L2P hosts. If the McClicky fits in the S6 and works, the current handling improvement will be worth the effort!
> Even more true if I decide to get the SST-90 version!
> I ordered two from ITC, we will see when they get here. Worst case I can use them for a couple of my L2 hosts.
> Phil



I'm there with you Phil on the color thing. I asked a Solarforce rep about the color and apparently there are no plans at the moment to bring out a gray colored version of the L2-S6. I only have 1 L2P in the "gray" color (although it looks more of a dark gray) and since the L2-S6 isn't shorter than the stock tailcap, I'll probably just keep using it as it came. I've got a Solarforce 5-mode XP-G dropin in my gray L2P, so the stock reverse clicky actually works well with it. To me though, I prefer to keep the overall length of this flashlight as short as possible...I still don't get why Solarforce and all the other Surefire 6P cloners decided to make their tailcaps longer than either the stock Surefire Z41 or Z59.


----------



## Black Rose

Just ordered an L2-S6.

Guess I'll need to get/build some single mode drop-ins that work well with single Li-Ion cells now


----------



## ace0001a

Just to give people an idea of what I'm talking about with tailcap sizes, here are some pics (all are Surefire C/P format compatible):





Left to Right: Surefire Z41, Surefire Z59, Ultrafire C1 Tailcap, Solarforce L2-S1, L2P Tailcap and L2-S6






As you can see, the Surefire Z41 and Z59 are noticeably smaller and that's the way I think it should be.


----------



## fishx65

Just picked up a Solarforce Skyline1. It's got a very cool tailcap that changes the level by keeping it pressed (infinitely variable). It functions with my 6P and L2 if I hold it on the bodies but the threads won't fit. Would be awesome to make my single mode R2's infinitely variable. Are these tailcaps available for the Surefire 6P and Solarforce L2? If not, possible to mod the L2 tailcap?


----------



## wedersonsilva

Hey guys,
Do exist a "turbo head" for I can use a D36 drop-in in the solarforce L2P?


----------



## LV426

mandrake said:


> Apparently the S6 switch uses a 14 mm boot. I guess that this means the guts will not transfer, at least without finding a suitable 16 mm boot for the stock L2P tailcap.


Phil,

I really don't see the over all problem with the stock boot... Just cut the center nipple/button if the mod requires it! Or is there a reluctance to do that, just to be able to roll-back the procedure?

Well, any how, the switch from the S6 transfers to the stock L2P tail-cap with no problem, and without cutting the 16mm boot - personally I think it works better with this, than with the 14mm one (it's not so stiff anymore).


----------



## kosPap

mandrake said:


> Apparently the S6 switch uses a 14 mm boot. I guess that this means the guts will not transfer, at least without finding a suitable 16 mm boot for the stock L2P tailcap.
> That seems to be the curent problem. I have searched for hours and can't find anything in black that will work.
> 
> I am real interested in your second batch of mods. I guess I missed the first batch and any info on it. Where can I find more information?
> 
> Phil


 
well LV426 has verified that guts are transferable.

regarding the tailcap I was about to PM you a link of a source of black ones but they are sold out.

on my mods....Yesterday I recieved the boards that are different tahn the first batch and need soem extra work.remanufacturing to be pleased with.
And I ahve not bought the switches yet...So it will take at least a month.

info is my SIG!


----------



## LV426

wedersonsilva said:


> I'll be so happy if you decide to show all your L2P setups!


no extravaganza...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3466595#post3466595


----------



## Wiggle

Ordered L2-S6. This'll go great with my L2P /w Masterpiece Pro-1 head, one mode spotters are awesome with forward switches Now I just hope they release an 18650 extension in HAIII so I can get rid of the non-matching one I have now.


----------



## mandrake

I don't have any problem with the stock boot, nor do I have a problem trimming the post. If I can remove the guts from the S6 switches that I have on order and put them into my L2P hosts, I am a happy guy. I had not read the fact that this would work before just now.
I will report back here once I have my new switches in hand and can give it a try.

I like the 16 MM boot better myself, too bad they are so rare...

Of course my original problem was trying to get something to work with the McClicky plus brass in the L2P...

Phil



LV426 said:


> Phil,
> 
> I really don't see the over all problem with the stock boot... Just cut the center nipple/button if the mod requires it! Or is there a reluctance to do that, just to be able to roll-back the procedure?
> 
> Well, any how, the switch from the S6 transfers to the stock L2P tail-cap with no problem, and without cutting the 16mm boot - personally I think it works better with this, than with the 14mm one (it's not so stiff anymore).


----------



## LV426

mandrake said:


> I will report back here once I have my new switches in hand and can give it a try.


Sorry... But wasn't that what I just wrote, that it works? :thinking:


----------



## mandrake

No reason to be sorry! 
And no reason to get your feelings hurt!
We have already seen that there is some variability in the switch housing on L2P hosts. Not only that Lots of good folks at CPF have been able to get things to work that I can't.

When I get the guts transferred and working on my light, I will be happy and we can broaden the database for others to refer to when I report back here. 

Sound good to you?

Phil



LV426 said:


> Sorry... But wasn't that what I just wrote, that it works? :thinking:


----------



## fishx65

fishx65 said:


> Just picked up a Solarforce Skyline1. It's got a very cool tailcap that changes the level by keeping it pressed (infinitely variable). It functions with my 6P and L2 if I hold it on the bodies but the threads won't fit. Would be awesome to make my single mode R2's infinitely variable. Are these tailcaps available for the Surefire 6P and Solarforce L2? If not, possible to mod the L2 tailcap?


 
Has anyone even seen a tailcap that functions like this? It works like a regular clicky but if you hold it down it lowers or increases the level.


----------



## LV426

mandrake said:


> No reason to be sorry!
> And no reason to get your feelings hurt!
> We have already seen that there is some variability in the switch housing on L2P hosts. Not only that Lots of good folks at CPF have been able to get things to work that I can't.
> 
> When I get the guts transferred and working on my light, I will be happy and we can broaden the database for others to refer to when I report back here.
> 
> Sound good to you?
> 
> Phil



No feelings hurt here, Phil! 

Since I'm Swedish, and working in Denmark having to express myself i English (and often get linguistically confused), I just had to check that it's not just me and "the Greekish guy" that understand each-other (Europeans alike)! 

Reg. the swapping of switches, just remove all from the stock L2P tailcap (- the boot) and replace with the "stuff" from the S6. Good luck!


----------



## kosPap

guys would you do me a favor to post a photo of the S6 insides (all parts spread out?)
(boy this sounds like a phrase taken from a horor movie)

BTW who is the "the Greekish guy" ?


----------



## mandrake

If you would care to let me know who that source is, perhaps I could contact them and ask them if they would let me know when they get stock again. Or maybe I can just watch their web page.

Thanks,
Phil 



kosPap said:


> regarding the tailcap I was about to PM you a link of a source of black ones but they are sold out.


----------



## LV426

All the "insides" of the S6


----------



## mandrake

I looks like they are taking up that extra shoulder length with that thick white washer. I am curious, do you have a stock L2P switch boot to compare to? Is the post in the S6 boot noticeably longer?

I hope to have a couple of S6 switches in hand to look at, depending on the postal system, pretty soon. I just would like to know.

Phil




LV426 said:


> All the "insides" of the S6


----------



## ElectronGuru

Time for an update...

We've decided not to take more time right now to develop a complete solution package for Solarforce tailcaps. 
What we can offer is a kit for the Ultrafire C1 tailstanding cap, alone and/or preinstalled in new C1's.

Would either of these options be of interest?

Thanks,
Dan


----------



## gunfighter

ElectronGuru said:


> Time for an update...
> 
> We've decided not to take more time right now to develop a complete solution package for Solarforce tailcaps.
> What we can offer is a kit for the Ultrafire C1 tailstanding cap, alone and/or preinstalled in new C1's.
> 
> Would either of these options be of interest?
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


 
I'll ask the dumb question; will a modified Ultrafire C1 tailcap fit on a Solarforce body and essential solve this forward-clicking problem? Or are you suggesting we'd need to buy Ultrafire bodies instead to get what we want?

My specific interested is in getting a forward clicky on my 1xCR123 Solarforce L2M, so I still might be out of luck as I don't think Ultrafire makes a P60-sized light running a 1xCR123


----------



## LV426

mandrake said:


> I looks like they are taking up that extra shoulder length with that thick white washer. I am curious, do you have a stock L2P switch boot to compare to? Is the post in the S6 boot noticeably longer?



Swapping the innards, and using the stock 16mm boot, the post is uncut but it is trimmed down (from the factory) on the boot of the S6 - so it's shorter on the 14mm boot.


----------



## mandrake

Dan,

Sorry if I am a bit slow. Now I get the part about you folks not pursuing a Solarforce switch solution. What I am not sure of is what the Ultrafire switch kit gets me, unless I have an Ultrafire C1. Now is the idea that I could buy the whole tailcap with McClicky installed and just screw it on to my L2P as a forward clicky solution? Ok I get that too if that is what you are saying. But what would the Ultrfire kit by itself do for me, unless it would fit into the current L2P tailcap assembly. Is that the thought here? Does the C1 use a 16mm boot and is it included in the kit you are offering?

I bought a McClicky plus brass from you recently, and as I and others found out, it will thread right into the L2P. The only problem is finding a proper boot, or at least a boot with the proper dimensions and *COLOR*.
How would the C1 kit be any different than what I purchased from you? What would it include besides the McClicky and brass ring adapter?

Just out of curiousity, keeping in mind that the current McClicky plus brass for the Surefire fits in the L2P, could you let us know what else was invloved in developing a complete solution for the L2P? I am thinking it has to be more involved than simply sourcing a proper boot. What am I missing?

Thanks in advance for any info that you can share.
As I indicated, I was just a bit confused by your note. There was much left unsaid, or so it seemed to me.

Phil




ElectronGuru said:


> Time for an update...
> 
> We've decided not to take more time right now to develop a complete solution package for Solarforce tailcaps.
> What we can offer is a kit for the Ultrafire C1 tailstanding cap, alone and/or preinstalled in new C1's.
> 
> Would either of these options be of interest?
> 
> Thanks,
> Dan


----------



## LV426

mandrake said:


> I bought a McClicky plus brass from you recently, and as I and others found out, it will thread right into the L2P. The only problem is finding a proper boot, or at least a boot with the proper dimensions and *COLOR*.



Phil,

I'll have to ask you once more: what is the problem with using the stock L2P boot with the McClicky-kit from Oveready?!


----------



## mandrake

I think I have already answered this in a previous post here, but what the heck, I will get my post count up ...


With either of the L2P tailcaps that I tried the stock switch boot did not have enough travel to make the switch work properly. This was not just a matter of adjusting how far the McClicky was threaded in by using washsers or O rings. Fully seated the switch was always on. Adding washers could get momentary on to work, but there was not enough travel to click the switch all of the way for constant on. Alek (thank you again sir) kindly sent me a 16 mm boot from Shiningbeam that is maybe a millimeter deeper (has more travel) and it works fine (but it is glow in the dark green). 

BTW, trimming the post in the boot is not the answer. I have a 16 mm boot from a Raidfire Speer that is the same depth ast the stock L2P boot, but with NO post at all. I still could not get the McClicky to work with it, no matter how I adjusted how far it was threaded into the tailcap.

Phil



LV426 said:


> Phil,
> 
> I'll have to ask you once more: what is the problem with using the stock L2P boot with the McClicky-kit from Oveready?!


----------



## LV426

Thanks Phil, I've missed your previous post!


----------



## ElectronGuru

I'll start with a disclaimer: I'm not that familiar with SolarForce threading and what will work with what. My understanding is that UF C1 tailcaps work with Solarforce setups as is and are indeed already purchased by Solarforce users to gain tailstanding ability. I am not suggesting that anyone buy more than a tailcap.

The basic issue is that Ultrafire and Solarforce tailcaps are designed to work with relatively large switches (switches not built for the application they are used, that are then mounted to circuit boards, making them even taller). This design requirement means that these tailcaps have XL end-pockets. Combined with threading that stops 3/4ths the way down, the relatively thin McClicky kit leaves a gap between the top of the switch and the bottom of the boot. A gap that must be filled for the switch to work. There are 2 basic approaches to accomplish this. One is to push the boot itself down. The other is the bridge the distance while still compressing the boot against the top, with the use of washers. Fill to little and the boot flops around, fill to much and you get permanent momentary.

My hope with the time we had was to design a new brass ring, one optimized for the shallow threads + deep cap found in these tailcaps. But our few hands are now very busy with larger projects and this engineered solution has become impractical for now.

I'm considering the C1 option as a way to fill the void, as it were. I can buy 100 of these at a time, preinstall the current McClicky kit, and sell them as ready to install onto Solarforce and Ultrafire bodies. Its not an ideal solution, as the finishes won't match, but it will at least give the functionality, with minimal extra cost or wait.

My question was and is, is this something folks would like?


----------



## kosPap

guys I am loosing contact with this thread...so many thinks mentioned here adn I am kind woozy (not easy losing afriend by cancer every 10 days)

I wil give a collective answer and nott qoute anyone...

DAN be very quatious with the UF C1 tailcaps..there are 2 version with similar threads....2 out of 3 I had to force screw on my C2 body...

The ones found in the tape switches seem to be Ok and are lock-out too...you can dig up a members FWD swicth service on the C1 (marketplace)

Regarding the Mcclicky kit...it seems that making a loner brass adapter must be the solution....anotehr one is to get the L2 tailcap case seen here http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/820/keepu.jpg

And trim it to length the mcclicky demands....Because this case/spacer has a rim where the switch button AND the bootie post come into. So they are practically always in contact. My guess i guess.....

Mandrake PM me your postal address

PS I am sorry but I feel very well by Solarcorce copying me!


----------



## mandrake

I have a bunch of Solatforce and a couple of other Chineses hosts that would benefit from a good forward clicky. Depending upon what the final pricing would be, I would likely check out at least one or two. Worst case I will have the McClicky switch to use somewhere.

Would you think that you would still look at doing something specific for the Solarforce lights in the future?

Phil




ElectronGuru said:


> I'm considering the C1 option as a way to fill the void, as it were. I can buy 100 of these at a time, preinstall the current McClicky kit, and sell them as ready to install onto Solarforce and Ultrafire bodies. Its not an ideal solution, as the finishes won't match, but it will at least give the functionality, with minimal extra cost or wait.
> 
> My question was and is, is this something folks would like?


----------



## syncytial

Here's my perspective...

As a manufacturer, I'd be very cautious about investing much in a solution dependent upon using existing Solarforce or other budget Chinese parts with a specific (modified) McClicky kit. I've got a number of L2 variants, including L2Ps. Knurling, assembly parts, and to some extent dimensions, vary with different production batches. It could be a customer service boondoggle if a significant proportion of customers turn out to have "out of spec" host parts.

I also question the need for a McClicky in most applications based on budget hosts, which are often available as a complete host (or even complete light) for less than the cost of a standard McClicky kit from Oveready. Yes, some folks will use the hosts for high-output light engines, but many of those folks will be prepared to be a little more ingenious than buying off the shelf solutions. Some enterprising individual members may be willing to assist with low-volume custom switch work, if needed.

What may be practical, for Oveready, or other volume sellers to offer, is a few low-cost washers and boots in various dimensions that would work as add-ons with the existing McClicky kit. The versatility and usefulness with many different manufacturer's lights would be beneficial to a greater audience and the risks fewer. Materials can be chosen for function and value - e.g. it may not make sense to do custom parts in brass etc.

If the qualities of the McClicky exceed the requirements for a specific application, then modifying existing tailcaps for forward operation, or supplying replacement switch assemblies based on the available switches used by other Chinese manufacturers, as Kostas has done :wave:, is a more cost effective solution. I don't see that as fitting in to the Oveready mandate, but that's just me.

I've changed the tailcaps on L2s and L2Ps to forward-clickies using McClicky switches and with modified Solarforce switch components. In each case using a McClicky so far, I've removed the McClicky because although I came up with working implementations, the switch action was far too light, and with the lack of reliable lockout in a Solarforce body, the chance of accidental activation was too great. Finding a stiffer boot might resolve that, but there's still the question of whether it makes any sense (to me) from a cost and function standpoint.

Lastly, the notion of making a bulk purchase of some inexpensive generic tailcap, that would presumably fit and function well with Solarforce, Surefire and other thread-compatible hosts, and coupling the tailcap with a McClicky, seems of dubious merit to me.

If I run a Surefire body, I'd prefer a (modified if necessary) Surefire tailcap, or one offering similar quality while giving me the features I'm interested in. If I'm running a budget host, we're back at the question of whether a McClicky makes sense in that application. There's also the very real question of aesthetic suitability - will the finish match acceptably, is the machining appropriate etc.

If Oveready could source or manufacture a *high-quality* inexpensive tailcap that was truly Surefire and Solarforce compatible, and load it with a budget version of the McClicky kit, there might be an acceptable market for that, but I'm skeptical about the economics, especially if matching finishes is desired. This also seems better suited to the business models of some of the general flashlight dealers that support the enthusiast market.




- Syncytial.


----------



## ace0001a

syncytial said:


> If Oveready could source or manufacture a *high-quality* inexpensive tailcap that was truly Surefire and Solarforce compatible, and load it with a budget version of the McClicky kit, there might be an acceptable market for that, but I'm skeptical about the economics, especially if matching finishes is desired. This also seems better suited to the business models of some of the general flashlight dealers that support the enthusiast market.



Not to knock your perspective syncytial as you do make valid points, but the reality of any business here that is into making a custom part here that would satisfy both what would be considered "high quality" and also be economically low in cost to both make and sell would be very difficult to accomplish. With that said and being an owner of several of the proposed Ultrafire C1 tailcaps, I personally think they're alot better than people think and definitely an extremely cost effective solution. The one I have with Oveready McClicky kit installed performs excellently, but of course I do feel that has more to do with the installed kit moreso than the actual tailcap itself...which in terms of what it is suppose to do, also is fine and does allow the flashlight to tailstand. What I think should be done (but not sure how much it will raise the costs) would be for Oveready to strip the existing ano off the Ultrafire C1 and redo it with a higher quality HA coating or simply Cerakote the existing ano...doing that would definitely make the tailcap housing itself a custom job in my book and arguably give a placebo effect of being "high quality".


----------



## kosPap

indeed C1 ano is one of the things I do not like...the otehr are the knurling...

Sycytial you have hit the nail on the aftermarket FWD switch options. 

Especially the lock-out feature, something i am working on...:naughty:


----------



## syncytial

ace0001a said:


> Not to knock your perspective syncytial as you do make valid points, but the reality of any business here that is into making a custom part here that would satisfy both what would be considered "high quality" and also be economically low in cost to both make and sell would be very difficult to accomplish.



Unless I'm misreading your post, we agree. 



syncytial said:


> _If Oveready could source or manufacture a *high-quality* inexpensive tailcap that was truly Surefire and Solarforce compatible, and load it with a budget version of the McClicky kit, there might be an acceptable market for that, *but I'm skeptical about the economics*, especially if matching finishes is desired. This also seems better suited to the business models of some of the general flashlight dealers that support the enthusiast market._



I also doubt that stripping and recoating the Ultrafire will make sense from a cost standpoint, as my comment about matching finishes suggests.

Certainly, loading a McClicky into an Ultrafire C1 will work, that wasn't in question. What is open for discussion is how many will buy it.


----------



## ace0001a

syncytial said:


> Unless I'm misreading your post, we agree.
> 
> I also doubt that stripping and recoating the Ultrafire will make sense from a cost standpoint, as my comment about matching finishes suggests.
> 
> Certainly, loading a McClicky into an Ultrafire C1 will work, that wasn't in question. What is open for discussion is how many will buy it.



Seems so, just that I somehow interpreted what you said as asking for a high quality solution total tailcap that would also satisfy the desires of those on a budget...afterall this is a thread about Solarforce products. As for the UF C1 tailcap itself, in my opinion it's not aesthetically bad in terms of design and finish. Maybe I have lower standards than some people here, but I think it satisfies the requirements of low cost and fairly good functionality in my opinion. Still, the McClicky kit itself may be not considered a low cost option to many and so it is a valid question as to how many would buy it who have shown interest in this thread. I'm not sure the cost of redoing anodizing, but I've been told it's very reasonable depending on the size of the project. Seeing how Oveready already does custom reanodizing of Surefires, one would think that whatever coating shop that is contracted to do this would simply be able to lump it into the existing work without adding too much additional cost. I may be wrong with my train of thought there or simply not have all the facts, but that is the common or logical sense I am going with here.


----------



## recDNA

I doubt many people are going to spend $40 for a tailcap that doesn't match. People buy Solarforce to save money.


----------



## syncytial

recDNA's post succinctly captures the problem. Unless you need/want the current capabilities of the McClicky switch, you can buy complete compatible forward clicky switches for less than an Ultrafire/McClicky would likely cost, especially if it was recoated (look at the pricing of Oveready's tailcaps and McClicky kits to estimate costs.) You can buy new genuine Solarforce forward clicky tailcaps for $12.00 - 15.00 delivered and I expect other brands for even less.

For those with a need for a McClicky in a budget host, the least cost option would be to use their existing tailcaps with a McClicky and suitable adapters/boots. That also avoids the problem/cost of matching for aesthetics as well as function. Changing parts in a Solarforce tailcap is easy - most budget tailcaps should be easy too.

Since one can buy a complete (reverse clicky) tailcap for $3.00 or less (delivered), I can see the appeal of loading it with a McClicky, but if it has to pass through the hands of another person for modification, with his costs and profit, then add shipping etc., the end cost may restrict sales to a point where the whole exercise isn't worth pursuing by a business.


- Syncytial


----------



## ace0001a

recDNA said:


> I doubt many people are going to spend $40 for a tailcap that doesn't match. People buy Solarforce to save money.



Good point...but as a flashaholic, I can't help but feel this was an idea worth exploring.


----------



## mandrake

It is interesting that there are lots of folks at CPF that will buy a Solarforce class host and spend many times its cost to upgrade it.

There is little that goes on around here that makes sense... when it comes to efficiency. There is little that goes on at CPF and those that support it, that would ever make sense to a mainstream business. 

I have an L2P host that cost about $30 that I have spent another $60 on it and I am not satisfied. Am I an idiot, most non flashacolics (including my XYL) would say so. Yet I still spend money on this "hobby". I will buy a couple of the proposed switches and see how they work on my lights. I doubt that I am alone.

Is the market limited. Certainly. Do companies like Oveready make enough money in this market to remain interested in catering to our idiocy? Apparently so. 

syncytial, you would fit right in with the bean counters at my place of employment. BTW, they make lots of money for us. They would never make something like a flashlight tailcap, or boot, or switch! It certainly does not make sense! 

I am real glad that there are folks around that think differently, and make a living at it, or at least find it worth doing to supplement their income, in the realm of CPF!

If not, I might just have to go back and remember something about being a real engineer... just so I could make my flashlights do what I want them to do....

Buying something pre-engineered and known to work, in the end saves me money. I am not sure that I am so different than other flashaholics. 

Granted, I doubt that anyone will pay the all of the bills by making tailcaps. Every little bit goes towards paying the rent though!

Phil



recDNA said:


> I doubt many people are going to spend $40 for a tailcap that doesn't match. People buy Solarforce to save money.


----------



## kosPap

mandrake you are right, but one think....

we woldl spent the same money regardless of host.....Surefire 6P & Compatible modularity is an addiction....


----------



## syncytial

Phil,

While I'm quite capable of sounding sensible, to the point of accountancy, the reality is quite different! I'm every bit as foolish as anyone can be - I spend vast amounts of time and horrifying sums buying "flashlights" and parts for same. I'm a repeat offender at the Oveready bar & grill, and the Malkoffs should dance when they hear my name!

Perhaps EG will decide to offer the UF TCs as a loss leader to encourage more souls to give themselves up in the name of lumens...


- Syncytial.


P.S. - Do I smell ham? Hobbies are such delights, especially to the more delightful amongst us! 




mandrake said:


> syncytial, you would fit right in with the bean counters at my place of employment. BTW, they make lots of money for us. They would never make something like a flashlight tailcap, or boot, or switch! It certainly does not make sense!
> Phil


----------



## ElectronGuru

Excellent discussion!




syncytial said:


> I also doubt that stripping and recoating the Ultrafire will make sense from a cost standpoint





ace0001a said:


> one would think that whatever coating shop that is contracted to do this would simply be able to lump it into the existing work without adding too much additional cost.



Throwing a bunch of unfinished parts into a coating bath isn't much different for 200 parts vs 400. Stripping them before that is a different story. Each kind of coating, each thickness, must be hand monitored to make sure enough is removed without removing to much. This part of the batch, then, would need to to be done individually. For the investment, it would make more sense to make new caps rather than improving these caps.




syncytial said:


> What may be practical, for Oveready, or other volume sellers to offer, is a few low-cost washers and boots in various dimensions that would work as add-ons with the existing McClicky kit. The versatility and usefulness with many different manufacturer's lights would be beneficial to a greater audience and the risks fewer.



This was plan A. Find some off the shelf plastic washers and shim up the boot. But we at OR have a little problem doing 'good enough'. If you'll pardon the expression, it feels wishy washy, not solid and reliable as something as important as a switch needs to be. We'll spend $70 on a paint job if it means it will last longer than the light underneath.




mandrake said:


> It is interesting that there are lots of folks at CPF that will buy a Solarforce class host and spend many times its cost to upgrade it.



I find there are two factors that enter consideration for the price of upgrades and accessories. The first is proportionality to the price of the base product. 20% of the original price is no brainer. 60% of the original price is tougher to accept. The second is proportionality to benefit. If its a light you use everyday and some particular feature, say the switch, drives you crazy every time you use it, you're not buying the upgrade for the light, you're buying it for yourself. Starting with a cheaper host doesn't change this reality.


----------



## kyhunter1

I have a not too far off topic question for you Solarforce fans. Please dont :whoopin:me if it has already mentioned as I have not completely kept up with this thread. Has anybody took the switch apart of the L2R 2 x AA host to see if it can be upgraded to a forward clicky? Since the tailcap is smaller, maybe the McClicky might be a possibility.


----------



## syncytial

kyhunter1 said:


> I have a not too far off topic question for you Solarforce fans. Please dont :whoopin:me if it has already mentioned as I have not completely kept up with this thread. Has anybody took the switch apart of the L2R 2 x AA host to see if it can be upgraded to a forward clicky? Since the tailcap is smaller, maybe the McClicky might be a possibility.




I've thought about it, but I haven't tried it - yet. I expect the basic construction will be similar to the larger Solarforce bodies. Just a moment while I run down to the Solarforce room...

OK, I just popped the switch out of an L2R tailcap. Construction is basically the same as the standard sized Solarforce switches, just a smaller diameter board - pretty much exactly the dimension of the switch from corner to diagonally opposite corner. Might it have been sized based on the size of the switch?

So... next step: The McClicky is still too small to thread into the tailcap of the L2R, but not by much. It'll slip in to the bottom of the tailcap. OK, next challenge... the stock boot and plastic spacer won't work with the McClicky. The spacer's centre hole isn't large enough, and the boot is too shallow. Off to the rubber room for a different boot!

Allright! Found a nasty green thing that fits and works with the McClicky in the L2R tailcap - but wait, there's another problem! The threaded retaining ring from Solarforce in the tailcap is plastic! There's no path for the current to get from the switch to the tailcap. Egads!

I assembled the light without the retaining ring - just to see if it's OK mechanically, and yes it seems that it'd be just fine. But unless I mash some aluminium foil in there, or magically find a threaded conductive retaining ring of the right size, we're out of luck. Maybe I've got time to carefully try the foil bit - that'll have to be instrumented, so I'll post this and update when done - if I survive!

*<EDIT>* - OK, I'm back. There are a couple of remaining obstacles, and I'm not going to resolve them tonight, although I can see how one might.

First - the retaining ring's inner diameter isn't large enough to go over the centre part of the McClicky in order to seat properly. You might be able to open up the hole, but it wouldn't leave a lot of material.

Second - the foil idea is a no-go. There are exposed conductors from both (electrical) sides of the switch, so the foil would just short out the switch, giving permanent ON. Not so good.

If a retainer was fashioned from non-conductive material, but taller, with a few threads worth of a conductive plate at the bottom (the plate alone would be too thin for structural needs since it has to exist below some conductive elements of the switch) it could be made to work. Or it could be done with a cylindrical metal retainer, possibly with a thin non-conductive inner sleeve. Mechanically, as noted above, everything goes together fine with a set of Duraloops in there. Protected 14500s might be too tight - hang on... OK, a pair of protected 14500 LiIon cells fit OK, and everything goes together fine, with good switch action.

By the way... it's the same switch as is used in the standard L2/L2M, so the actual switch could be replaced on the Solarforce board and all the fiddly mechanical problems would go away. I think I've heard that song before... 

That's it for tonight on this little tangent!
 

- Syncytial.


----------



## LV426

kyhunter1 said:


> Has anybody took the switch apart of the L2R 2 x AA host to see if it can be upgraded to a forward clicky?



*-->* https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3462608&postcount=86


----------



## kosPap

kyhunter1 said:


> I have a not too far off topic question for you Solarforce fans. Please dont :whoopin:me if it has already mentioned as I have not completely kept up with this thread. Has anybody took the switch apart of the L2R 2 x AA host to see if it can be upgraded to a forward clicky? Since the tailcap is smaller, maybe the McClicky might be a possibility.


 

you just caught me on the act....I have one similar board taken from another flashlight with the KD FWD Switch ready!
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2630262&postcount=2
(soldering is better than in sample in the pic). And I have successfully tested it in a L2R.

It will be soon up for sale along with something else Solarforce


----------



## kyhunter1

Thanks guys for the insight.


----------



## wedersonsilva

kosPap said:


> you just caught me on the act....I have one similar board taken from another flashlight with the KD FWD Switch ready!
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2630262&postcount=2
> (soldering is better than in sample in the pic). And I have successfully tested it in a L2R.
> 
> It will be soon up for sale along with something else Solarforce



Good thread....


----------



## recDNA

Do you have to bake on the cerakote paint?



[FQUOTE=ElectronGuru;3474468]Excellent discussion!



Do you have to bake the cerakote?


Throwing a bunch of unfinished parts into a coating bath isn't much different for 200 parts vs 400. Stripping them before that is a different story. Each kind of coating, each thickness, must be hand monitored to make sure enough is removed without removing to much. This part of the batch, then, would need to to be done individually. For the investment, it would make more sense to make new caps rather than improving these caps.




This was plan A. Find some off the shelf plastic washers and shim up the boot. But we at OR have a little problem doing 'good enough'. If you'll pardon the expression, it feels wishy washy, not solid and reliable as something as important as a switch needs to be. We'll spend $70 on a paint job if it means it will last longer than the light underneath.




I find there are two factors that enter consideration for the price of upgrades and accessories. The first is proportionality to the price of the base product. 20% of the original price is no brainer. 60% of the original price is tougher to accept. The second is proportionality to benefit. If its a light you use everyday and some particular feature, say the switch, drives you crazy every time you use it, you're not buying the upgrade for the light, you're buying it for yourself. Starting with a cheaper host doesn't change this reality.[/QUOTE]


----------



## ElectronGuru

recDNA said:


> Do you have to bake on the cerakote paint



There are 2 grades of Cerakote, "C" which is ambient cure & "H" which is thermally (heat) cured. Except for special applications (clear), we only use the tougher H, which requires baking, in excess of 200 degrees. Course, this is the gentle part of the process. Without media blasting parts first, adhesion isn't good enough to make it worthwhile.


----------



## recDNA

It would be interesting to see what a Surefire looks like after blasting and before painting! I often wondered what is under the Cerakote.


----------



## Black Rose

Probably looks very similar to the gunmetal (natural) L2P.


----------



## LV426

I just replaced the switch in the S6 with a McClicky, using a o-ring as a spacer to the boot, and two as spacers between the switch and the housing.
Had to replace the boot, and the only half tricky thing were to trim the post to a suitable length - with my spacer, almost cut away, but left 1mm or so...

Works great!


----------



## Black Rose

I'm still waiting for my S6 to show up.

I think when they said airmail, they really meant carrier pigeon....


----------



## mandrake

As am I. Mine were supposedly shipped as of July 20, 2010. No tracking info provided, so I have no clue where the ones that I ordered are.

Phil


Black Rose said:


> I'm still waiting for my S6 to show up.
> 
> I think when they said airmail, they really meant carrier pigeon....


----------



## chas9rr

Can a McClicky go into a regular Solarforce L2 tailcap?
Can the switch assembly from the S6 directly replace the assembly in the stock L2 tailcap?
Due to my usage requirements, it is almost impossible to activate the recessed switch on the L2P, so I prefer to have a protruding switch and have bought a regular L2 tailcap. Yes the mismatch in color bugs me some... lol but I think I will take care of that (here).
Thanks
Charles


----------



## LV426

Charles, please refer to the previous posts in this thread.


----------



## don.gwapo

L2-S6, I will order two from lighthound next week. I got an email from them yesterday that they will have it in stock 7-10 days awaiting shipment.


----------



## Black Rose

Black Rose said:


> I'm still waiting for my S6 to show up.
> 
> I think when they said airmail, they really meant carrier pigeon....


 


mandrake said:


> As am I. Mine were supposedly shipped as of July 20, 2010. No tracking info provided, so I have no clue where the ones that I ordered are.
> 
> Phil


I guess my griping worked...it arrived today.

Bought it on July 26th and it was marked as shipped on the 26th, but it was postmarked July 28th. 

No idea why it takes so long from them when my DX items show up in about a week and my stuff from Lumens Factory shows up in 4 days.

Anywho...as others have said, the switch is a bit hard to press.
It matches the anodizing on my L2P perfectly but also doesn't look out of place on my 6P. but does looks out of place on my L2 :shrug:

I was surprised that it even worked on my G2.


----------



## recDNA

Black Rose said:


> I guess my griping worked...it arrived today.
> 
> Bought it on July 26th and it was marked as shipped on the 26th, but it was postmarked July 28th.
> 
> No idea why it takes so long from them when my DX items show up in about a week and my stuff from Lumens Factory shows up in 4 days.
> 
> Anywho...as others have said, the switch is a bit hard to press.
> It matches the anodizing on my L2P perfectly but also doesn't look out of place on my 6P. but does looks out of place on my L2 :shrug:
> 
> I was surprised that it even worked on my G2.


 
Do you have to press hard just to get momentary on or is it just difficult to push hard enough to click?

Does it tailstand?

There was no way it could look good on the L2 and the L2P. The L2 is shiny. The L2P is matte. It might look cool on a gunmetal L2 though.


----------



## don.gwapo

Blackrose,

Does the hardness to click comparable to the regular L2? Or the S6 is much harder to click/momentary? 

Thanks.


----------



## Black Rose

recDNA said:


> Do you have to press hard just to get momentary on or is it just difficult to push hard enough to click?


The momentary is easy to operate. It's just a bit harder to push to get it to click. 
I think that's because the button on the switch itself is quite long, so it needs to travel further to click.



> Does it tailstand?


Yes it does.



don.gwapo said:


> Does the hardness to click comparable to the regular L2? Or the S6 is much harder to click/momentary?


I'd say it's just a slight bit harder to push than the regular L2.


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## don.gwapo

Black Rose said:


> The momentary is easy to operate. It's just a bit harder to push to get it to click.
> 
> I think that's because the button on the switch itself is quite long, so it needs to travel further to click.
> 
> I'd say it's just a slight bit harder to push than the regular L2.


 
Thanks. This won't gonna be an issue for me. Getting this tailcap for my L2P and L2M when they will be available at the retailers.


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## kosPap

chas9rr said:


> Can a McClicky go into a regular Solarforce L2 tailcap?
> Can the switch assembly from the S6 directly replace the assembly in the stock L2 tailcap?
> Due to my usage requirements, it is almost impossible to activate the recessed switch on the L2P, so I prefer to have a protruding switch and have bought a regular L2 tailcap. Yes the mismatch in color bugs me some... lol but I think I will take care of that (here).
> Thanks
> Charles


 
the S6 switch will work OK in the L2....you will loose some thread travel which may be good after all....indeed see the inside pics of the S6 switch a p[age before. If you have trouble with the lswitch length PM me...


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## march.brown

I have two L2's and two L2i's ... I think , having read all these posts , I will just stick with the reverse clickies ... I can't see any major problems in clicking on and then clicking off after use.

My EDC iTP A1 , A2's and A3's are all twisties anyway.

I can see where Law Enforcement Officers and other similar users would prefer forward clickies for the ease of momentary switching , but luckily it's not essential for my use.

I do like the tailswitch on the L2i's in preference to the one on the L2's ... It seems neater ... I like the fact that just by putting a 5mm spacer between the head and the body on the L2i means that a 18650 can be used ... Unfortunately three of my Solarforces are in the gorgeous sand colour ... The other L2i is black ... Getting the right colour of paint for the L2i spacer is awkward with the sand colour , but my black one looks OK.

I will keep reading this thread just in case an easy solution to the forward clicky miraculously appears ... I guess it would be more awkward to modify the switch on the L2i's though as the tailcap screws into the body.
.


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## kosPap

you forget another reason for the fowrward clickies...increased current tolerance....the Solarforce S6 one has been tested by me at 3.3Amps.

on the L2i..I have one sealed in its hepackage meant to be a gift...else i would have devised a solution...


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## don.gwapo

kosPap said:


> you forget another reason for the fowrward clickies...increased current tolerance....the Solarforce S6 one has been tested by me at 3.3Amps.


 
The S6 seems to be a better choice over the stock L2P tailcap if I will get high lumen drop-in like sst or triple.

Kospap,

Have you tested the L2P tailcap for how many amps it can handle?

Thanks.


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## don.gwapo

kosPap said:


> on the L2i..I have one sealed in its hepackage meant to be a gift...


 
BTW, is that L2i meant for me? just kidding! .


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## recDNA

I tried to convert an L2 tailcap using the forward clicky and guts of a Dereelight but no luck.


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## kosPap

Suming up the above posts....

if the Derrelight you have is like the DBS (probably this and the C2H share the same body & ntailcap) iit IS a no go....

But if you have seen dissasemble tailcaps from fenix, jetbeam, itp, solarforce S6, quark you will recognize the FWD switch KD sells....

This one I have tested:
_"I have measured 3.3A current on it, another member has reported 3A, had no complaints from local guys using them, and as a matter of fact I have run an MCE/18650 to depltion with this switch._
_The switch does NOT exhibit the flashing phenomenon where upon the click-on action it flashes._
_*small update*....I dared to put these switches in a Mag85 (Soalrforce/FM D26 G4 bi-pin adaptor).__Lighted up & worked fine__"_


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## Wiggle

I got my S6 in, it's pretty nice. I'm using it on my Masterpiece Pro-1 cause if your limited to one mode, momentary on is great, esp with spotters. The switch has a good look and feel. Its on the stiff side but not "hard" to press unless you have little girl thumbs  Lots of travel before engaging is nice as well IMO. I can recommend this switch, it matches the L2P well. Only problem I find is the little posts to tails stand can be hard on the thumbs if you grab them at the wrong point but it's worth it for the tail standing.


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## Black Rose

Wiggle said:


> Its on the stiff side but not "hard" to press unless you have little girl thumbs


Or are riddled with arthritis.....


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## recDNA

Wiggle said:


> I got my S6 in, it's pretty nice. I'm using it on my Masterpiece Pro-1 cause if your limited to one mode, momentary on is great, esp with spotters. The switch has a good look and feel. Its on the stiff side but not "hard" to press unless you have little girl thumbs  Lots of travel before engaging is nice as well IMO. I can recommend this switch, it matches the L2P well. Only problem I find is the little posts to tails stand can be hard on the thumbs if you grab them at the wrong point but it's worth it for the tail standing.


 

This may have been asked earlier in the thread but it's a looonnng thread...can you take the guts out of the L2-S6 and install them in the standard L2P clicky or even the standard L2 clicky? I don't like the posts and it might be easier to press the button if it is totally exposed as in a L2 clicky. I don't care about tail standing.


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## LV426

recDna,

*-->* https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3467151&postcount=118


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## kosPap

I must add that you will loose some switch travel....the new swicth innards will be longer....


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## Wiggle

Black Rose said:


> Or are riddled with arthritis.....



Oops, sorry didn't mean to offend anyone with arthritis.


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## recDNA

LV426 said:


> recDna,
> 
> *-->* https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3467151&postcount=118


 

Thanks, that's just what I'll do with mine. I have an L2 clicky that is broken so I'll just replace the guts. I think the L2 tail is smaller too right?


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## recDNA

Well, I got my L2-S6 from HK today by way of the Bay. Our customs agents are apparently at work because the pkg was ripped open but that was no problem although you'd think they'd tape it shut again. If it weren't for the bubble wrap the L2-S6 would have fallen out of the envelope. 

I suspected I wouldn't like the points for tailstanding and lanyard and I was right. Just took the guts out of the L2-S6 and put them in the stock L2-S1. Love it. Nice L2-S1 with forward clicky totally exposed. I never tailstand my flashlights anyway.

I'd guess that the L2-S6 mechanism isn't as conductive as the McClicky with brass BUT the feel is much better for me. Nice and stiff. As soon as one of the American Solarforce distributors get the L2-S6 in I intend to replace all the L2-S1 innards with the forward clicky. Too bad I can't just buy the innards. I'll probably end up throwing the empty L2-S6 tails away.


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## LV426

recDNA said:


> I'll probably end up throwing the empty L2-S6 tails away.


 I'll take it...


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## recDNA

What good is the empty tail with no guts or even rubber clicky cap?


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## Black Rose

New guts can be built and installed, 14mm tailcap covers are available dirt cheap.


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## don.gwapo

recDNA said:


> As soon as one of the American Solarforce distributors get the L2-S6 in I intend to replace all the L2-S1 innards with the forward clicky.


 
Lighthound already have the L2-S6 together with their L2-B4.


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## kosPap

recDNA said:


> Too bad I can't just buy the innards. I'll probably end up throwing the empty L2-S6 tails away.


 
Trying to PM you on this.....


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## LV426

recDNA said:


> What good is the empty tail with no guts or even rubber clicky cap?


What Black Rose said... Works perfect with a McClicky!


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## recDNA

don.gwapo said:


> Lighthound already have the L2-S6 together with their L2-B4.


 

Thanks. I'll check them out.


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## recDNA

Black Rose said:


> New guts can be built and installed, 14mm tailcap covers are available dirt cheap.


 
But to buy the tailcap cover and McClicky would cost more than another L2-S6 right? Are there "guts" available that are cheaper than a new L2-S6? ( and I thought I read earlier McClicky in his own thread about it that McClicky doesn't fit?)


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## kosPap

well seems that you have disabled PM? 

anyway there WAS a method..see my sig...

In the PM I wanted to suggest a trade...some innards for a few cases...

PM if you are interested...


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## LV426

recDNA said:


> But to buy the tailcap cover and McClicky would cost more than another L2-S6 right? Are there "guts" available that are cheaper than a new L2-S6? ( and I thought I read earlier McClicky in his own thread about it that McClicky doesn't fit?)



1) McCklickies fit and work (and a swap is sometimes just something one would like to do)
2) Romisen's "one-dollar-fwd-switch" fit, and work as well.

Just take a closer look in this thread...


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## recDNA

Shiningbeam has two Romisen forward clickies. One for the RC-N2 and one for the RC-G3. Which should I buy along with the 14 mm boot to fit a Solarforce tailcap?


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## timbo114




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## LV426

recDNA said:


> Shiningbeam has two Romisen forward clickies. One for the RC-N2 and one for the RC-G3. Which should I buy along with the 14 mm boot to fit a Solarforce tailcap?


*-->* https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3379982&postcount=15


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## spankone

ElectronGuru said:


> If someone has a stash of L2 tailcaps I could borrow/buy, I'd like to normalize compatibility if we can.
> 
> :thanks:


I 've got 2 standard ones you can have


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## jimtsport

gcbryan said:


> The cheapest and easiest way to put a forward clicky into any P60 host is to order the Romisen forward clicky switch from Shiningbeam for less than $2.00 each.
> 
> I'm using an Uniquefire L2 as a P60 host. I had also replaced the original tailcap covers with green GITD covers. All I had to do to go from reverse to forward clicky was to remove the aluminum retaining ring, take out the reverse clicky, take out the button cover and cut of the little "stub" on the inside and in one case there was a plastic insulator ring in the center of the aluminum ring so I popped that out and then just drop in the forward clicky.
> 
> So, it's just a direct replacement but as mentioned you may need to cut the length of the "stub" in the tailcap cover and (if you have one) pop out the plastic insulator in the center of the retaining ring and toss that.
> 
> These forward clickies seem to be well made.


 
Thanks for the info.
Just ordered (5) Forward Tactical Click Swich for Romisen RC-G2. Thought I'd try modding a few reverse click switches.

1) SolarForce L2 Stock Switch
2) SolarForce L2p Stock Switch
3) SolarForce L2i Stock Switch
4) UltraFire C2 Stock Switch
5) UniqueFire L2 Stock Switch

I'll post results when modding is complete!


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## psychbeat

Sorry to gravedig -but I just thought Id say I stuck a McClicky in one of my newer L2Ps (darker gray) 
and kept the stock boot with no trimming of post or Oring. I just reused the white spacer from the L2P switch
and added a thin metal washer underneath it to keep the guts in the brass.

I wouldnt have bothered but I replaced the McClicky in my C2 with a FETtie and didnt want it to go to waste!!


anyways its a VERY easy mod if u have an assortment of washers to play with.

the stiffer spring is a welcome addition as I wont get mode changes as often when riding bumpy trails on my bike.
the solarforce tail springs are pretty floppy.

I also prefer forwark clickies in general but not a deal breaker


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## duro

My solarforce s4 clicky seems to be of better quality than my jetbeam clicky. I did a side by side comparison.


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## PCC

recDNA said:


> Shiningbeam has two Romisen forward clickies. One for the RC-N2 and one for the RC-G3. Which should I buy along with the 14 mm boot to fit a Solarforce tailcap?



I've used the Romisen forward clickies and I've found that they don't handle much more than about 1.5A of current. I've already melted two, the last one testing a drop-in with a 1.4A 7135 driver.


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## psychbeat

I didn't try it yet but I'd bet the FETtie would fit in there too probs just need a washer/spacer

I know an L2P tailcap is kind of slumming it for a FETtie


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## PCC

*Converting a reverse-clicky Solarforce L2P to forward-clicky*

I purchased my L2P from SB Flashlights and the only thing that bothered me about it is that it has a reverse-clicky tail cap. I prefer forward-clicky tail caps over reverse-clicky tail caps even on my multiple mode lights. Fortunately, converting it to a forward-clicky is very easy to do, taking only a few minutes at the cost of a McClicky, which I purchased from Illumination Supply.







First, take the tail cap apart. Here I'm using a pair of forecepts to unscrew the retaining ring.






Once the retaining ring has been removed you push the button through and everything falls out. Here they are from left to right, top to bottom, in the order that they sit in the tail cap: retaining ring; isolation ring; clicky switch; spacer ring; rubber switch button: tail cap.






Next, you'll need to trim the rubber nub from the underside of the rubber button. First, you'll need to flip it inside-out then you cut it off with a sharp knife. Dont cut through the button, and try to remove the nub completely.











You then just drop in the rubber button, the McClicky, the the retaining ring and screw it all down snug.











At this point you'll need to test it. Does the light turn on, but, won't turn off? You left too much of the nub on the button cover. Trim some more off and try again. Likewise, if the button is really sensitive and seems to be on a hair trigger then you'll need to trim off a hair more off the back of the button cover. As an alternative, an appropriately sized thin washer can be placed between the button cover and the switch, but, you might end up with a button that lacks feel.

This procedure will also work on the L2 reverse-clicky tail caps, but, you'll need to use the thin washer (or two) as the tail cap has a shoulder inside that won't allow you to screw down the retaining ring tight enough without it.


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## TadpolePilot

*Re: Converting a reverse-clicky Solarforce L2P to forward-clicky*

Please explain the difference is switches.
Have L2p and L2m.


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## andytheboa

*Re: Converting a reverse-clicky Solarforce L2P to forward-clicky*

If you have an older style L2M, the only difference is that the L2P tail cap has a 16 MM boot and is HAIII coated while the L2M tail cap has a 14 MM boot and has type II ano.

The new L2M tail cap has a forward clicky with an 16 MM boot and SOLARFORCE branded on to it while the old L2M and the L2P switches are reverse clickys with a plain checkered boot.


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## turkeylord

*Re: Converting a reverse-clicky Solarforce L2P to forward-clicky*

Playing with my newly acquired L2M today, and found that a hard drive platter spacer makes a really nice grip ring.






This is the thickest ring I have at almost 6mm, but it only makes the L2M 4mm longer due to chamfering on the ring. Even with the thick ring, I still engage 3 full threads and have no continuity issues with the batteries even when I shake the light.

Just wanted to share


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## biglights

*Re: Converting a reverse-clicky Solarforce L2P to forward-clicky*



turkeylord said:


> Playing with my newly acquired L2M today, and found that a hard drive platter spacer makes a really nice grip ring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the thickest ring I have at almost 6mm, but it only makes the L2M 4mm longer due to chamfering on the ring. Even with the thick ring, I still engage 3 full threads and have no continuity issues with the batteries even when I shake the light.
> 
> Just wanted to share




That looks nice, thanks for sharing.


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