# Foursevens Mini Mark II



## lampeDépêche (Oct 28, 2016)

I'm sure a lot of you got this email today:

[h=1]*The MINI Mark II*[/h][h=3]Radically Small. Simply Brilliant.[/h]Seven years ago, FOURSEVENS revolutionized the EDC (Every-Day-Carry) world with the MINI 123 flashlight. Now we are preparing to deliver the smallest, brightest, most feature packed CR123A MINI ever.
Developed from the ground up with a custom designed Lithium Ion battery, enhanced Mil-Spec electronics and advanced optics, the Mini Mark II RAISES THE BAR OF EDC LIGHTS with a never before achieved 1000 lumens as well as a true current-regulated sub-one lumen moonlight mode with a 19 DAY runtime!
We’ve never been able to package this much output in a single CR123A flashlight this small.
Aerospace grade electronics inside helped us make the smallest EDC light ever. And the new features don’t just stop with the inside of the light.






The Mini Mark II includes a 2-way pocket clip, detachable key ring option, and multi-configurable modes so you can customize your MINI specifically to your needs.
We’ll be releasing more specific info closer to release date (expecting Early to Mid November), so keep an eye on your inbox for how to order the MINI Mark II.


Looks interesting. TIR lens out front instead of traditional reflector? Presumably a high-current RCR123, maybe an IMR. Guesses about the emitter? Looks like they are going after the Olight S1 Mini market.

For a few years, Foursevens made some really exciting, industry-changing lights. They have not been on the cutting edge in a few years (in my opinion), but I would be very happy to see them back there once again.


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## Joe Talmadge (Oct 28, 2016)

Nice! I"ve been rooting for 4sevens for years... but it's been more moral support than financial, because something or other in every light they came out with turned me off, and I haven't bought from them in years. If the light lives up to specs, and doesn't have problems such as the mode-skipping etc. seen on early Minis, I think this will be my first 4sevens purchase in a loooong time!


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## regulator (Oct 28, 2016)

Ditto with what Joe said. This light does have my attention and could be the first 4sevens light in years. If 4sevens is careful on sourcing good emitters for both cool and neutral tint this could be a hit.

I always liked lights that have a simple knurled design and that are made as small as possible relative to their battery - no wasted space. Top it off with super efficient electronics, decent modes, and good emitter and you have a winner.


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## derfyled (Oct 28, 2016)

Ok 4sevens, you got my attention now...


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 28, 2016)

regulator said:


> ... If 4sevens is careful on sourcing good emitters for both cool and neutral tint this could be a hit....



Ouch--that's a sore point. For reasons best known to them, 4/7s has never been a big supporter of neutral tints or high-CRI lights. They always seemed to go for cools whites and maximum lumens, tint be damned.

I hope they have changed their ways on that score, too! I'd take 800 lumens--even 500 lumens--of really quality tint and CRI over 1000 lumens of angry bluish white.

Even better if they give us an option.

(I should say that their Atom 0 Titanium has one of the nicest Nichias in my collection--that time, they really nailed the tint and CRI).


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## regulator (Oct 28, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Ouch--that's a sore point. For reasons best known to them, 4/7s has never been a big supporter of neutral tints or high-CRI lights. They always seemed to go for cools whites and maximum lumens, tint be damned.
> 
> I hope they have changed their ways on that score, too! I'd take 800 lumens--even 500 lumens--of really quality tint and CRI over 1000 lumens of angry bluish white.
> 
> ...



For me, I would be ok with a cool white for this light so long as it is pure white. I have found decent cri with good cool white LEDs. I can't stand any tint shift towards green in either cool or neutral.


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## matrixshaman (Oct 28, 2016)

I'm in for one! 4sevens Mini's are one of my favorite types - I believe I've currently got 6 or 7 of them including one in Titanium. Awesome lights and interface.


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## matrixshaman (Oct 28, 2016)

SNIP <


> For a few years, Foursevens made some really exciting, industry-changing lights. They have not been on the cutting edge in a few years (in my opinion), but I would be very happy to see them back there once again.


Yeah I think that had something to do with Surefire suing him - reminds me of Apple wanting to patent 'rounded corners' on cell phones - too ridiculous and actually just about wanting to kill the competition.


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## Gadgetman7 (Oct 28, 2016)

I'm really looking forward to this light. I don't care for the Bluetooth lights so the newer ones don't interest me. I hope it takes none proprietary batteries too.


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## matrixshaman (Oct 28, 2016)

Ad said CR123 batteries so not proprietary although most of 4 sevens lights seem to say to use only a CR123 and not RCR123 I use the RCR123 in most of them with no problem as long as you don't put it on high for too long. If this light can do 1000 lumens on a CR123 imagine what it will do on RCR123 (assuming it doesn't fry it). 

Edit: Just read the facebook page on it and he says it works for both CR123 and RCR123 fully regulated for both. It mentioned using a 10C battery so yes it probably would be best to use an IMR type that can withstand high discharge rates if using the rechargeable RCR123 batteries.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 28, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> Ad said CR123 batteries so not proprietary....




Here's the part of the email that made me think they'll be shipping with a special battery:

"Developed from the ground up with a custom designed Lithium Ion battery,"

I'm guessing that it will not hit 1000 lumens without the "custom designed" battery. With an off-the-shelf DL123 it will work, and put out decent levels, but not 1000 lumens.

All guess-work for now--I'm looking forward to seeing details!


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## Ryp (Oct 28, 2016)

Funny how the Olight S Mini is shorter than this light despite this being a twisty.


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## matrixshaman (Oct 28, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Here's the part of the email that made me think they'll be shipping with a special battery:
> 
> "Developed from the ground up with a custom designed Lithium Ion battery,"
> 
> ...



I missed that part although it also says it can use regular CR123 and RCR123. I'm guessing it's probably an IMR in disguise


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## matrixshaman (Oct 28, 2016)

Ryp said:


> Funny how the Olight S Mini is shorter than this light despite this being a twisty.



It is likely shorter because it uses an Optic instead of a reflector.


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## regulator (Oct 28, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> It is likely shorter because it uses an Optic instead of a reflector.



Where are the dimensions of this light given? Is there more information somewhere?


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## wacbzz (Oct 28, 2016)

Interesting...from the email:

"Designed from the ground up with a *custom designed Lithium Ion battery*..."

and from a response on their FB page:

"Full regulation on both. 1000 lumens from *our *10c Li-ion rcr123a" battery. (Emphasis mine in both cases)

Very early, but does anybody else see "proprietary battery" here to reach that output, or is it just me?


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 28, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> [The Olight S Mini] is likely shorter because it uses an Optic instead of a reflector.



I dunno--looks to me like the new 4/7s Mini Mk II is going to use some sort of TIR optic as well:








The proportions of the light look the same as the old reflectored Mk I Mini, but perhaps they had to pack in more electronics?


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## ven (Oct 28, 2016)

This I really like, has my interest as well...................love the form


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## regulator (Oct 28, 2016)

Nice picture. Makes me want one even more.


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## surefire7 (Oct 28, 2016)

Any guesses as to price point?


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## DMS1970 (Oct 28, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> I dunno--looks to me like the new 4/7s Mini Mk II is going to use some sort of TIR optic as well:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I like it better from this angle, but twisties are below side buttons for me, especially in a light this short. I do not find the very ergonomic.


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## DMS1970 (Oct 28, 2016)

DMS1970 said:


> I like it better from this angle, but twisties are below side buttons for me, especially in a light this short. I do not find the very ergonomic.


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## jorn (Oct 28, 2016)

Ryp said:


> Funny how the Olight S Mini is shorter than this light despite this being a twisty.



The olight s mini is 2.5 in.
The foursevens mini ML is 2.3 in
I cant find info about the size of the mark II. Where did you find the specs for size?


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## Capolini (Oct 28, 2016)

A cool looking light. 

Really, How long could it maintain 1000 lumens or even 800 lumens? 30 seconds? Probably less,,,,,probably a burst mode for 10 seconds?! Understandably so all the manufacturers advertizing centers on max output,,,,,,in a way it is deception because they can never maintain that output for long.


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## Ryp (Oct 28, 2016)

jorn said:


> The olight s mini is 2.5 in.
> The foursevens mini ML is 2.3 in
> I cant find info about the size of the mark II. Where did you find the specs for size?



The Olight S Mini is 2.15"
I don't know the dimensions of the Mark II but it looks similar to the size of the 1st gen. Maybe a tad shorter in the head, so it could be shorter than the S Mini.


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## eraursls1984 (Oct 28, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> The proportions of the light look the same as the old reflectored Mk I Mini, but perhaps they had to pack in more electronics?


It's smaller than the old Mini ML. I don't know the exact specs, but Foursevens showed a silhouette shot of it and it is smaller.


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## StarHalo (Oct 28, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> For reasons best known to them, 4/7s has never been a big supporter of neutral tints or high-CRI lights. They always seemed to go for cools whites and maximum lumens, tint be damned.



Surprise! (and I would have included the Neutral, but there's nothing on its packaging indicating what it is..)


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## MichaelW (Oct 28, 2016)

Since perception is very non-linear; you could have 500 lumen boost mode with primary cr123A {for ~30 seconds}, and step down to 250 lumens. With special LiIon 1,000 lumens for 30 seconds, then step down to 250 lumens.


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## Ryp (Oct 28, 2016)

I counted the number of "diamonds" in one column of the knurling on both Mk I and II. The knurling closer to the rear had the same number of diamonds for both Mk I and II, but the knurling on the head had ~10% fewer diamonds on the Mk II which would indeed make it shorter than the Mk I.


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## Strintguy (Oct 28, 2016)

Anybody figure what emitter they are using?


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## Lucky Duck (Oct 29, 2016)

According to the Olight Store the length of the S-Mini is 2.5 in. or 54.5mm. 54.5mm equals 2.15 in. Which is it?:thinking:


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## Ryp (Oct 29, 2016)

Lucky Duck said:


> According to the Olight Store the length of the S-Mini is 2.5 in. or 54.5mm. 54.5mm equals 2.15 in. Which is it?:thinking:



I guess their store has a typo. Their website says 2.15 in. / 54.5mm. 2.5 in. which would make the S Mini longer than the 2.4 in. S1 which it's clearly not heh.


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## jorn (Oct 29, 2016)

StarHalo said:


> Surprise! (and I would have included the Neutral, but there's nothing on its packaging indicating what it is..)



Looks like new.





The aa is neutral, beutiful tint. I had to mod the cr123 version myself to get neutral....


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## jorn (Oct 29, 2016)

S mini is still huge compared with foursevens attemt to make a mini light. The atom AL at 48,3 mm. He could still shave off some mm if he removed the keychain attatchment and magnet.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 29, 2016)

StarHalo said:


> Surprise! (and I would have included the Neutral, but there's nothing on its packaging indicating what it is..)



I'm not sure what you think the surprise is. I knew that 4/7s sometimes produced lights in Neutral and Warm, because I *own* several of them, and owned others that I no longer have. I have both Quarks and Mini AAs in Neutral and Warm.

Nonetheless, 4/7s never made NW and WW a standard option, available across the whole line. It was always a special offer, only on certain models, or a limited run, not always in stock. In the case of the Quarks, for instance, all of my NW lights were offered only in the Tactical configuration, which I liked much less than the standard configuration where you have access to all modes. 

Go to their website right now, and what you will find is almost entirely cool white lights. 

What you *won't* find is an option on every light saying "do you want this in CW or NW"? That's what e.g. ZL does--on every light, they give you that option, and on some lights they give you one or two more options for high CRI. 

So maybe 4/7s will offer the new Mini Mk II in NW as well as CW, as a standard option, from the very start--I hope they will! 

But that has not been their pattern. Their old pattern was to sell a lot of Cool Whites for the mass market, and then after a year or so offer a limited run of NWs for the specialists.


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## DAN92 (Oct 29, 2016)

XP-L Led?


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## Woods Walker (Oct 29, 2016)

I might be in. This looks great. I still use my 1XAA mini and 2XAA mini but considering this in 1xCR123.


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## jag-engr (Oct 29, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Ouch--that's a sore point. For reasons best known to them, 4/7s has never been a big supporter of neutral tints or high-CRI lights. They always seemed to go for cools whites and maximum lumens, tint be damned.



Foursevens was one of the first main-stream manufacturers to even provide this option. To this day, many manufacturers – Fenix, Jetbeam, Nitecore – provide few, if any, high-CRI or warm-tint options.

David has explained repeatedly that this is an economic necessity — they invariably loose money on these runs. Some members clamor very loudly for the warm / high-CRI emitters, but few buy them. 

Foursevens may not offer numerous emitters on every light, but this is far from a valid criticism.


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## ronniepudding (Oct 29, 2016)

I will not hold my breath waiting for a NW offering from Foursevens, nor high-CRI. I presume that this light is using CW XM-L2, with optics similar to those that Olight has used on recent S1 Baton lights... which sounds pretty good to me. If I'm reading the blurb correctly, it will include a true Moonlight mode and a non-PWM driver. Sounds even better. The only thing that worries me is the clip design, the way it rests against the knurled part of the head... which you need to twist repeatedly to operate the light. It seems like that will make for a 'grating' UI  

Well, at least the clip looks to be removable. If so, I'm in for one.


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## weez82 (Oct 30, 2016)

Very interested in this. I'll most likely get one if it isn't priced too high


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 30, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> Foursevens was one of the first main-stream manufacturers to even provide this option. To this day, many manufacturers – Fenix, Jetbeam, Nitecore – provide few, if any, high-CRI or warm-tint options.
> 
> David has explained repeatedly that this is an economic necessity — they invariably loose money on these runs. Some members clamor very loudly for the warm / high-CRI emitters, but few buy them.
> 
> Foursevens may not offer numerous emitters on every light, but this is far from a valid criticism.



I'm not trying to take cheap shots against David or his company. I know he has mentioned the low sales in the past, and I sympathize with anyone running a company and making payroll.

I don't think the problem is that members here request things and then don't buy them. I think the bigger problem is that even if every member of CPF bought something, it still would not add up to one day's sales for Surefire, or one minute's sales for Ray-0-Vac or Eveready or the big-box light merchants. Tint snobs are not a big market.

At the same time, some manufacturers--I mentioned ZL--are managing to break even while offering tint options with every model. 

You mention some manufacturers that offer few if any tint options. So there we are: some companies do better, some do worse, and 4/7s is somewhere towards the worse side.

I hope they'll offer a NW option with this new light!


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## wacbzz (Oct 30, 2016)

It is interesting that while folks are talking here about how FourSevens produced and then had difficulty selling NW and WW models, we are somehow failing to see just how niche a "1000 lumen" light no bigger than the average human thumb really is...no matter what the emitter actually may be.


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## Joe Talmadge (Oct 30, 2016)

wacbzz said:


> It is interesting that while folks are talking here about how FourSevens produced and then had difficulty selling NW and WW models, we are somehow failing to see just how niche a "1000 lumen" light no bigger than the average human thumb really is...no matter what the emitter actually may be.



Ya, I'm with you there -- if it lives up to specs, it's pretty incredible. That said, on every aficionado forum I've ever been on, well-educated aficionados care deeply about things that most normal people would consider minutiae. I must have a tiny bit of normal personal left in me, since I consider color temperature and CRI a footnote ... or maybe a footnote to a footnote. But, not to be captain obvious, for many guys here, that's a bar that has to be reached before they'll consider a light.


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## kcasner (Oct 30, 2016)

If be afraid of losing something so small for EDC! Impressive specs though.


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## bykfixer (Oct 31, 2016)

1000 lumens? Really? How long?


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## bykfixer (Oct 31, 2016)

Oops, double post.


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## Connor (Oct 31, 2016)

bykfixer said:


> 1000 lumens? Really? How long?



Literally seconds. Very few of them.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 31, 2016)

Connor said:


> Literally seconds. Very few of them.



Yeah, that's probably right. It will be a burst mode, with fairly quick step-down. The body is too small to handle much heat except by throttling back the output.

Question: aren't ANSI lumen figures quoted at 30 seconds after turn on? And doesn't 4/7s always use ANSI numbers?

So when they quote 1000 lumens, they may have to keep it at 1000 lumens for at least 30 seconds, in order to report that as an ANSI number. 

Or am I missing something?

30 seconds is actually pretty long for a burst-mode.


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## bykfixer (Oct 31, 2016)

Edited.

Rant removed.


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## Dan FO (Oct 31, 2016)

Might try one.


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## Dan FO (Oct 31, 2016)

Very nice light.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 31, 2016)

bykfixer said:


> Troubling imho. I had thought of foursevens being above that sort of hand is quicker than the eye trickery...
> 
> Not saying this light sucks, just saying "real numbers or bust", that's all.



Well, now I think you're being a bit *too* hard on them, bykfixer.

There is nothing deceptive or tricky about claiming numbers that are certified by ANSI standards (which has always been 4/7s practice).

That means you get to measure the output at 30 seconds after turn-on and call that your top output.

It's what every other manufacturer uses--except the *really* deceptive ones who quote ridiculous numbers.

But every light that you see on this forum that boasts 3000 lumens or 5000 lumens or whatever--those are all measured in the same way: that's the reading at the 30 second mark. 

And nearly every light on this forum uses a step-down from turbo, either after a preset time (1 minutes, 5 minutes, 30 seconds, whatever), or after a built-in temperature regulator tells it that it's getting too hot.

The numbers for turbo outputs are just as much "real numbers" as the numbers for other levels. 

Some people say, "I'd rather have a light that is guaranteed to do 200 lumens in a steady way for 2 hours than one that claims 1000 lumens but can only do it for minute!"

Well, why not have both? If you can have a light that does X output continuously, wouldn't it be nice to have it capable of doing 2X or 5X for brief bursts?

Fighter jets have a cruising speed, and they also have an after-burner speed. Fighter pilots don't scoff and say, "who wants after-burner if you can only use it for a few minutes?" Heck no--they want a fast cruising speed, *and* they want the option of afterburner for the few seconds when it can save their lives.

And they certainly do *not* say, "well, that's just the speed with afterburner--those are not "real numbers"!" 

Afterburner speed is a real number, even if the jet cannot fly that continuously. Turbo mode on a flashlight is a real number, even if it has to throttle back after a while.


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## Lucky Duck (Oct 31, 2016)

Spot on, lampeDepeche*!! ( See above, #52 ) *Sorry, no fancy keyboard. :shrug:


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## bykfixer (Oct 31, 2016)

Edit:

Dis-tasteful rant deleted.


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## Greta (Oct 31, 2016)

bykfixer said:


> Eh, I see your point.
> 
> But I feel like there are companies using gimmick numbers disguised as game changers and imo this one borders on the edge of that.



And IMO, your posts border on "thread trashing" in a sorta/kinda way. As a dealer for a competitor, IMO it is very inappropriate for you to be making such unsubstantiated allegations. Please step it back... and remember your new status. It does change things. :tsk:


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## mightysparrow (Oct 31, 2016)

Very interesting - I'll have to keep up with the news about this light as it comes out.


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## kreisl (Oct 31, 2016)

is this light smaller/shorter than the Olight Smini ?


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Oct 31, 2016)

Taken from an e mail from FourSevens: 

_Our team at FOURSEVENS has been designing the next generation Mini flashlight for over a year now. 
By using higher grade electronics and military-grade optics we’ve been able to reduce the size of the Mini even more, 
while increasing the output from 252 lumens in the Mini ML to 1000 lumens. 

_






_A new RECHARGEABLE RCR123A cell was developed that could handle this amount of power. 
Most CR123A batteries max out at 750 lumens, but ours can go even higher._
_The high grade electronics in the Mark II will auto-regulate to keep the unit from overheating. 
After 15 seconds the light output will dim down to 300 lumens to keep the flashlight at a safe operating temperature. 
_




_
The Mini Mark II features a TIR (total internal reflector) optic with a 99% light transmittance rate. 
The TIR optic went through dozens of iterations to achieve a perfectly balanced spot-flood beam normally only found on reflectors. 
This optic avoids the "tunnel vision" you often experience with less balanced beams. 


_~ Chance


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 31, 2016)

Thanks, Chance! I was about to post that.

_After 15 seconds the light output will dim down to 300 lumens to keep the flashlight at a safe operating temperature. _

So: bad news first, it looks like the 1000 lumens number is *not* measured using ANSI standards (if that requires measuring at 30 seconds after turn-on).

Good news second: 4/7s is clearly trying to get the full information out there and not create false expectations.

Knowing what I know about RCR123s, I always knew that 1000 lumens would have to be a short burst with a step-down. The cell just doesn't have enough juice to produce that output for long. I still think 15 seconds of that output will be handy/useful/fun to have.


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## kreisl (Oct 31, 2016)

i'd take one in Thundrey Grey or Titanium!! :kiss:


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## bykfixer (Oct 31, 2016)

Greta said:


> And IMO, your posts border on "thread trashing" in a sorta/kinda way. As a dealer for a competitor, IMO it is very inappropriate for you to be making such unsubstantiated allegations. Please step it back... and remember your new status. It does change things. :tsk:



My humble appologies to foursevens and CPF community.


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## roger-roger (Oct 31, 2016)

bykfixer said:


> My humble appologies to foursevens and CPF community.




Well said, bykfixer. 




Been following this thread for the past few days. Right when I thought my main choice in a small CR123 twisty was the Fenix E15, this comes along. This is a twisty right? Any word on the UI and CR123A performance?


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## ronniepudding (Nov 1, 2016)

I'd like to see a AA version that can run on a wide range of voltages.... 14500, CRAA, L91, or Eneloop.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 1, 2016)

ronniepudding said:


> I'd like to see a AA version that can run on a wide range of voltages.... 14500, CRAA, L91, or Eneloop.



Seconded! The earlier Mini AA was my indispensable back-up light for several years, exactly because it is a multifuel beast, taking all of those cells plus the AAA versions (i.e. AAA, L92 lithium, 10440 li-ion, etc.) without needing any modification, even a wad of tinfoil. I still keep one in my daily carry bag for that reason.

The biggest feature missing from the old Mini AA was a genuine sub-lumen moonlight mode, and this new Mini Mark II promises to remedy that.


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## AVService (Nov 1, 2016)

I would love to like these new Mini but if the original Mini is the template then no thanks.

I had nothing but negative experience with the Mini and they all cross thread too easily for me and the mode selection seemed to have a mind of its own especially as the battery wore down.
I liked the screw on clip on the 2aa though but this new one seems to have a snap off clip which I want no part of at all.

I would be thrilled if this were not the case in these new ones.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 1, 2016)

Regarding any difficulty with a twisty that has a clip like this it looks to me like the clip is very removable so I don't see any problem with that. For all the Mini's I've bought from 4sevens I've never felt a need for a clip on one anyway but a couple have a short lanyard on a tiny keyring attached. Best carry method I've found for this size light is the small square Fenix pouch so you can put it in a pocket easily without worry of scratches from keys etc.
Like this:




http://i66.tinypic.com/nlbrk3.jpg


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## matrixshaman (Nov 1, 2016)

AVService said:


> I would love to like these new Mini but if the original Mini is the template then no thanks.
> 
> I had nothing but negative experience with the Mini and they all cross thread too easily for me and the mode selection seemed to have a mind of its own especially as the battery wore down.
> I liked the screw on clip on the 2aa though but this new one seems to have a snap off clip which I want no part of at all.
> ...



I've used Mini's for years and one of them gets used every night. I've never had a problem with cross threading on any of the 7 I've got including one Titanium Mini. Just saying - it's maybe a manual dexterity issue for some or if you have shaky hands but I don't believe that is a common issue. The threads are relatively high threads per inch for a good reason. I find a quick gentle twist works best when changing modes and if you set it just right you can change modes one handed by just squeezing the front half to the back half and then holding or giving it a tiny more twist to keep it in that setting. 
Still hoping to hear a price point on these and hoping it's close to current Mini's ....


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 1, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Ouch--that's a sore point. For reasons best known to them, 4/7s has never been a big supporter of neutral tints or high-CRI lights. They always seemed to go for cools whites and maximum lumens, tint be damned.
> 
> I hope they have changed their ways on that score, too! I'd take 800 lumens--even 500 lumens--of really quality tint and CRI over 1000 lumens of angry bluish white.
> 
> ...



4/7s has made some lights in neutral,warm and HCRI but nothing recently that I know about. The complaint from 4/7s has been that neutral doesn't sell well and makes for additional cost in production IIRC. I like the Mini but the lack of neutral has been a deal killer for any additional purchases.

This Mini Mk II looks like an innovative design but I still really want neutral for a small EDC. I am somewhat skeptical about the 1000 lumens. Not so much that 4/7s can't deliver but the practicality in such a small light. Probably requiring the use of a proprietary battery and almost certainly very limited due to battery capacity and overheating issues. Still the Mini Mk II may be a good light on more common batteries but unless there is a neutral I don't see one in my future.

In fairness to 4/7s lumen numbers pique interest and sell lights and there are a lot of consumers who will buy on those numbers alone.


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## AVService (Nov 1, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> I've used Mini's for years and one of them gets used every night. I've never had a problem with cross threading on any of the 7 I've got including one Titanium Mini. Just saying - it's maybe a manual dexterity issue for some or if you have shaky hands but I don't believe that is a common issue. The threads are relatively high threads per inch for a good reason. I find a quick gentle twist works best when changing modes and if you set it just right you can change modes one handed by just squeezing the front half to the back half and then holding or giving it a tiny more twist to keep it in that setting.
> Still hoping to hear a price point on these and hoping it's close to current Mini's ....



Boy you sure told me?
Shaky Hands? Manual Dexterity?

I gave all of mine away,no problems now.

Just saying.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 1, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> Regarding any difficulty with a twisty that has a clip like this it looks to me like the clip is very removable so I don't see any problem with that. For all the Mini's I've bought from 4sevens I've never felt a need for a clip on one anyway but a couple have a short lanyard on a tiny keyring attached. Best carry method I've found for this size light is the small square Fenix pouch so you can put it in a pocket easily without worry of scratches from keys etc.
> Like this:



That's a nice flame-job. Here's another I found in the archived section of CPF. 

~ Chance 





Photo Credit 
- 127.0.0.1 
February 2012


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 2, 2016)

It's now available for pre-order. $55 package price includes the new high-discharge RCR123A battery, two clips and a USB FLEX charger. 



~ Chance


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## Ryp (Nov 2, 2016)

http://www.foursevens.com/products/ML-II-AF

http://www.foursevens.com/products/ML-IIC-AF



2.17" vs Olight S Mini 2.15". I was right, the S Mini is shorter


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## gunga (Nov 2, 2016)

Looks good. I just worry that the clip grinds against the head.


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## maukka (Nov 2, 2016)

That's the Olight magnetic charger. Wonder if the battery is also the same that comes with the S1R.


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## RollerBoySE (Nov 2, 2016)

Foursevens more or less pioneered the neutral and high CRI market with NW and high CRI versions of the Mini 123. I have one together with my car keys and it's still going strong after all these years. 
I admit that it's getting a bit dated output wise, so an upgrade would be nice. But if it's not high CRI, I'm not interested.
So please release a high CRI version of this new light!


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 2, 2016)

gunga said:


> Looks good. I just worry that the clip grinds against the head.



I'm with you, gunga. I hate when that happens. No worries with the Mark II. There [email protected]@Ks to be plenty of clearance. 

~ Chance


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## RollerBoySE (Nov 2, 2016)

maukka said:


> That's the Olight magnetic charger. Wonder if the battery is also the same that comes with the S1R.



Probably, since David owns both companies.


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## Ryp (Nov 2, 2016)

maukka said:


> That's the Olight magnetic charger. Wonder if the battery is also the same that comes with the S1R.



Foursevens calls it their "Flex Charger" and looking at the pictures, the battery which comes with the light is Foursevens-branded.


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## gunga (Nov 2, 2016)

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> I'm with you, gunga. I hate when that happens. No worries with the Mark II. There [email protected]@Ks to be plenty of clearance.
> 
> ~ Chance



Oh. OK. I like my clips to touch the light but you can't have everything.


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## kreisl (Nov 2, 2016)

Ryp said:


> 2.17" vs Olight S Mini 2.15". I was right, the S Mini is shorter



both are amazingly small lights wow. 
the clip attaching mechanism seems the same on both models.


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## AVService (Nov 2, 2016)

maukka said:


> That's the Olight magnetic charger. Wonder if the battery is also the same that comes with the S1R.




The S1R charges the battery in the light and the contacts are on the outside too and evidently short on anything metal,this seems a safer method though not as simple maybe too.

Also the little routed slot for the clips looks exactly like the one on the S-Mini!

That 2nd clip is interesting too.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 2, 2016)

gunga said:


> Oh. OK. I like my clips to touch the light but you can't have everything.



LOL! Make up your mind. :laughing: O.K. have it touch, but just a wee, little, tiny bit. ............... David has left the building ....... :hairpull:

~ Chance


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 2, 2016)

Well, I hit the bid. Pre-ordered one for my son for the holidays.

He has been EDC'ing a Mini 123 for several years, so this will be a good upgrade for him.

Me, I prefer NW and WW. But he likes CW, so he'll like this.


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## dts71 (Nov 2, 2016)

Any news on the capacity of the 4sevens battery?


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## revscott (Nov 2, 2016)

Why is the medium so close to the high (after 15 second burst)? Only 50 lumen difference after the step down. Am I seeing that right?


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 2, 2016)

BRIGHTNESS LEVELSWith FOURSEVENS RCR123A Battery:
Moonlight: 0.8 lumens, 7 days
Low: 20 lumens, 16 hrs
Medium: 250 lumens, 70 min
High: Burst at 1020 lumens, 15 seconds
then 300 lumens, 48 min
Yep. You're seeing it right. Basically it steps down to medium +.

~ Chance


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## mightysparrow (Nov 2, 2016)

revscott said:


> Why is the medium so close to the high (after 15 second burst)? Only 50 lumen difference after the step down. Am I seeing that right?



This looks like a neat little light - something I'm interested in, but I can't help thinking that I'd prefer a medium mode that is 100 lumens or 150, so the runtime on medium would be significantly longer and there would be a more noticeable difference between the medium and high output levels. 

A neutral version would increase my interest, if it proves to be a reliable light. I'm happy to see another tiny R/CR123 light appearing on the scene.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 2, 2016)

dts71 said:


> Any news on the capacity of the 4sevens battery?



They have not announced it, but I doubt that the battery will break any new ground in capacity.

The Olight high-drain RCR123 is rated at 650mah. That's probably what this will do, too. Looks like it is optimized for dumping a lot of current through the emitter in a short time--that doesn't necessarily do anything for the capacity.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 2, 2016)

mightysparrow said:


> I'd prefer a medium mode that is 100 lumens or 150, so the runtime on medium would be significantly longer and there would be a more noticeable difference between the medium and high output levels.



Strongly agree. I'd also like to see a mode-selection layout that does not require you to go through medium and high before you get to moonlight!!


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## regulator (Nov 2, 2016)

Yep- a medium mode between 70 to 100 lumens would have been nice for good runtime.


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## moshow9 (Nov 2, 2016)

Am I reading the specs right in that, if choosing Config. 6, moonlight mode does not come on first but last?

Edit: Ah, disregard. I see that David answered this question on the product page. Ordered.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 3, 2016)

moshow9 said:


> Am I reading the specs right in that, if choosing Config. 6, moonlight mode does not come on first but last?
> 
> Edit: Ah, disregard. I see that David answered this question on the product page. Ordered.



I'm glad you posted about that! I was worried about the same thing, and I had not seen David Chow's comment on the page.

I also had not noticed that the new light has memory, i.e. comes on in the last mode it was turned off from. So if I always turn off in moonlight, then it will always cycle in (what I think is) the right order, i.e. moonlight-low-medium-high. 

That's a relief.


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## DAN92 (Nov 3, 2016)

Ordered.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 4, 2016)

RollerBoySE said:


> Probably, since David owns both companies.



Really? Guess I haven't been around enough lately. That's cool. Funny too 'cause I just bought an Olight SMini Gold PVD on Copper too and love it. Tiny beauty and a real pocket rocket.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 4, 2016)

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> That's a nice flame-job. Here's another I found in the archived section of CPF.
> 
> ~ Chance
> 
> ...


 Nice. Actually I don't anodize normally with a flame but with a variable HV DC supply and some TSP in water. Anodize everything I've got in Titanium including a Titanium Gatlight. That was a bit of a scary job on the Gatlight but it came out good. Ordered the Mini Mark II this A.M. Even if this wasn't a great interface and excellent quality light it would be hard to find a real 1000 Lumen light for this price that was of any decent quality. Lots of lights out there claiming outrageous Lumens half of which are only because they use a focused zoom lens and the other half are probably only a small fraction of what they claim. But I believe 4 Sevens lights put out what they say. I'm thinking about picking up a second one for a gift if it turns out the be the super pocket rocket I think it is. Need to warn any non CPFers though that this is a nuclear powered searchlight so they don't look at the front and then turn it on.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 4, 2016)

AVService said:


> Boy you sure told me?
> Shaky Hands? Manual Dexterity?
> 
> I gave all of mine away,no problems now.
> ...



Sorry guy - wasn't trying to be personal or insulting. If you are as old as some of us around here shaky hands just come with the numbers. And I learned long ago there are fairly big differences in different peoples manual dexterity - not an insult - just a fact and I was thinking out loud an explanation for why one person was reporting issues with cross threading.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 4, 2016)

Another picture to hold us (that have purchased one) over. You're welcome. 

~ Chance


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 4, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> Nice. Actually I don't anodize normally with a flame but with a variable HV DC supply and some TSP in water. Anodize everything I've got in Titanium including a Titanium Gatlight. That was a bit of a scary job on the Gatlight but it came out good. snip...



You redpill guys are awesome! :twothumbs

~ Chance


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## mattodio (Nov 7, 2016)

Mine shipped today! Excited for this one


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## holygeez03 (Nov 8, 2016)

Now please make one that runs on 14500... with a nice, neutral tint... and a forward-clicky with momentary! PLEASE!

I have been trying to replace my Quark Tactical Neutral AA/14500 for years... something smaller, with more power, would make me very happy.


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## weez82 (Nov 8, 2016)

If anyone gets this light please post beam shots. I'm very interested in this light but I need to see it in action before I know if its what I want. Thank you


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## was_jlh (Nov 8, 2016)

Ordered last night. First light I've bought in a couple of years. I have several 4/7s and love them all.


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## jag-engr (Nov 8, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> Sorry guy - wasn't trying to be personal or insulting. If you are as old as some of us around here shaky hands just come with the numbers. And I learned long ago there are fairly big differences in different peoples manual dexterity - not an insult - just a fact and I was thinking out loud an explanation for why one person was reporting issues with cross threading.


The original MiNis were a mixed bag - especially the CR123. I have an aluminum NW AA MiNi than is an awesome light. I have gifted several other AA MiNis that were rock-solid. On the other hand, I had a AA Ti MiNi that ground and cross-threaded and a CR123 aluminum MiNi that had such loose threads that I could not predictably change modes on it.


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## oKtosiTe (Nov 10, 2016)

RollerBoySE said:


> Probably, since David owns both companies.


Is this actually true? I can find a number of pages announcing a strategic partnership almost six years ago, and David Chow becoming chairman for Olight, but nothing recent that confirms this is still the case today.


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 10, 2016)

oKtosiTe said:


> Is this actually true? I can find a number of pages announcing a strategic partnership almost six years ago, and David Chow becoming chairman for Olight, but nothing recent that confirms this is still the case today.



Foursevens belongs to David Chow but I didn't think he owned Olight only that he was or is chairman. I don't know if anything has changed since the original announcement either. Hard to believe it has been six years!


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## RchGrav (Nov 10, 2016)

Hey guys.. I got mine.. I'm no expert at beam shots but I'll happily throw a spot on my shed and some trees try to take a picture of it with my Smartphone. 

Here -> http://imgur.com/a/3UL1u


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 10, 2016)

Got mine as well! 

Looks good--the moonlight mode is genuine moonlight. The high is very high--I don't have any way of getting exact numbers, but I compared it to a ZL H52w running a 14500 on high, so about 500 lumens, and it was very plausibly twice as bright as that, when measured by ceiling-bounce.

Oddly, it did not step down after 15 seconds. It was getting warm at 30 or so, and was still manageable at 1 minute, though possibly getting a bit dimmer? If they do have a timed ramp-down, then it is very gradual.

The optic gives it a very large and uniform hot-spot with a much dimmer spill. Not my favorite beam profile--I prefer reflector beams--but a good one of its kind.

Anyhow--all in all, at a first glance, I'd say it behaves as advertised. Cute, tiny, and very very bright. A good refresh of the Mini line.


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## RchGrav (Nov 11, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Oddly, it did not step down after 15 seconds. It was getting warm at 30 or so, and was still manageable at 1 minute, though possibly getting a bit dimmer? If they do have a timed ramp-down, then it is very gradual.



I never noticed it drop down to 300 Lumens, I think I waited a little bit longer than 30 seconds. I thought maybe I missed it or maybe I blinked or something.


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## RchGrav (Nov 11, 2016)

Also.. Not sure if its worth mentioning.. but I like how the light remembers the last brightness level and returns to that mode when you twist it back on. 

Rich


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## matrixshaman (Nov 11, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Got mine as well!
> 
> Looks good--the moonlight mode is genuine moonlight. The high is very high--I don't have any way of getting exact numbers, but I compared it to a ZL H52w running a 14500 on high, so about 500 lumens, and it was very plausibly twice as bright as that, when measured by ceiling-bounce.
> 
> ...



Still waiting on mine - seems it got stalled out a 30 miles away for the next 2 days - does USPS realize what us flashaholics go through at times like this :laughing: If these honestly aren't stepping down after 15 seconds I think I'd consider manually dropping it down a step. At least I think that much heat for any extended times might be shortening the life of the LED unless it's really well heat sinked (which would seem difficult to do in such a tiny light). When I get mine I'll put it on the Lumen meter to see if there is a noticeable step down around 15 seconds. Sometimes with a light that bright it's hard to tell a difference in certain conditions as your eyes will adapt quickly but I would think if it is a sudden drop it would be noticeable. I've had lights I thought were identical in brightness until I put them on the meter to see hundreds of lumens in difference.


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## gunga (Nov 11, 2016)

That's very relevant. Thanks for reporting it (the mode memory).


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 11, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> ...If these honestly aren't stepping down after 15 seconds I think I'd consider manually dropping it down a step. At least I think that much heat for any extended times might be shortening the life of the LED unless it's really well heat sinked (which would seem difficult to do in such a tiny light....



Yeah, I turned mine off somewhere btw 30-60 secs for that reason--I did not want to take chances on a malfunction.

But it also was not that hot in my hand, and I assume that blood cooling does a lot.

Incidentally, there are at least three aspects to heat-sinking, and one of them is not affected by the size of the light.
1) does the mounting of the LED pull heat away from the LED and the driver, and conduct it into the body of the light?
2) does the body of the light dissipate the heat, by e.g. cooling fins, surface area, etc?
3) is the body of the light sufficiently heavy that it can act as a temporary reservoir for excess heat until it can be dissipated or throttled back at the source?

Issues 2) and 3) are very much affected by the size of the light: a small light will never be a big reservoir of heat, and will not present a large area for dissipating heat.

But there's no reason why a light the size of the Mini should do a bad job at 1). If the mounting of the LED is well-designed, then it should get the heat away from the emitter and into the body of the light, so that the temp of the body very quickly matches the temp of the emitter, and every additional calorie generated at the emitter is very quickly conducted into the body.

If the Mini is succeeding on issue 1)--and in past years, David Chow has been *very* obsessive about heat management--then the temperature of the body is a good reflection of temp of the emitter. What I was feeling were temps around 100-120 F, or 40-50C. Not worrisome temps for an emitter to be at. 

Mostly I turned it off because it's a new light and a new design and there is no down-side to being cautious. As more reports come in we'll learn more.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 11, 2016)

Thanks for that info lampeDépêche. I'm not surprised as David is one of us and wants a light as efficient as possible in heat management as well as it's other cool features. :twothumbs


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## speculate (Nov 12, 2016)

That's fantastic information! Could someone kindly post a video of the beam shots? Would love to see how the flood is on this light.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 12, 2016)

It is a very large hot spot - basically it's a flood light - at about 4 feet you have roughly a 2 foot diameter hot spot, at 10 feet it looks like about 4 or 5 foot diameter hot spot. 
Got mine today. I noticed 4sevens talking about the battery with people on his site (or Facebook) and he mentioned to get full brightness on high the battery needs to be able to handle 10C (about 5 amps I believe) but the battery that comes with the light says on it 5C. I think batteries that are 5C can do about 2.75 amps if I recall correctly. Any thoughts or info on this? 
I put the light on my Lux (lumen) meter and did some quick and dirty tests. It is brighter by a couple hundred lumens than the recent Olight S Mini I just got (stated 550 Lumens on high). I don't have a light sphere so these readings are all relative. I used the same battery in both lights. When I tried the AW RCR123a black label it was not as bright (maybe a couple hundred lumens lower). But with the battery 4sevens sent I can say it is very freakin' BRIGHT


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## matrixshaman (Nov 12, 2016)

Also of interest I took a close look at the threads on this new light. They appear to be squared off (superior) and less threads per inch (coarser) than any of the previous Mini's I've gotten from 4sevens. So for those with concerns about cross threading or similar problems I would guess this one will not be as likely to have that sort of issue.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 12, 2016)

speculate said:


> That's fantastic information! Could someone kindly post a video of the beam shots? Would love to see how the flood is on this light.



I'm fairly close to 10 feet from this wall:


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## StandardBattery (Nov 12, 2016)

mightysparrow said:


> This looks like a neat little light - something I'm interested in, but I can't help thinking that I'd prefer a medium mode that is 100 lumens or 150, so the runtime on medium would be significantly longer and there would be a more noticeable difference between the medium and high output levels.
> 
> A neutral version would increase my interest, if it proves to be a reliable light. I'm happy to see another tiny R/CR123 light appearing on the scene.





lampeDépêche said:


> Strongly agree. I'd also like to see a mode-selection layout that does not require you to go through medium and high before you get to moonlight!!





regulator said:


> Yep- a medium mode between 70 to 100 lumens would have been nice for good runtime.


I think this is going to be a common sentiment, seems a bit crazy, especially since it runs on a low capacity RCR123A. I wonder what the numbers are for a regular CR123A primary cell, maybe that is more reasonable. Or it could be they thought; well it's rechargeable so don't worry about the runtime on Medium.

I also wonder if this is a sign that Olight does not intend to make an Aluminum version of the S-Mini anytime soon. --OR-- 4-Sevens is no longer working with Olight.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 12, 2016)

Thread comparison between regular 4sevens Mini and the Mini Mark II (on the right):


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 12, 2016)

Nice pix, Matrixshaman--very helpful!

"speculate" above on thread was curious about the flood on this beam: "Would love to see how the flood is on this light." 

Your reaction is: "It is a very large hot spot - basically it's a flood light - at about 4 feet you have roughly a 2 foot diameter hot spot, at 10 feet it looks like about 4 or 5 foot diameter hot spot. "


That's all true, but my reaction is: very little flood. A beam that is 2 ft in diameter at 4 ft distance is a 28-degree cone (tan 14 = 0.249). It's true that the beam inside of that 28-degree cone is very even and floody--no hot-spot internal to it. But that's still a relatively narrow cone.

And I would estimate that 90%-95% of the output is going into that cone--the spill outside of it is very faint (though it looks pretty good in your photo, because of the white-wall-bounce effect.). 

So it's not a wall-of-light effect, like (e.g.) a ZL frosted lens putting out a 90-degree cone (tan 45 = 1, so that means an 8 foot circle when held 4 feet away). Much less is it a pure flood mule with a 120-degree cone, like the ZL X02 and X03 series.

It's more like a thrower that throws a big, hot spot with very little spill.

I think that's a useful beam for all urban and suburban uses--close up it's great, and at 50 meters away, it will bathe a 20m to 25 meter circle in even light. (So, across the parking lot you will see two cars end to end). Not a rural thrower (but then at this size, who would expect that?) and not an arms'-length flooder.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 12, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> ...But with the battery 4sevens sent I can say it is very freakin' BRIGHT



By the way, M-S: what was your experience with the step-down from turbo, when using the 4/7s battery?


----------



## reppans (Nov 12, 2016)

I got mine in and did some output and current tests. 

For the record, my lightbox is calibrated to what I believe to be US ANSI and ties up closely with my HDS 325 (@0.02 and 325) and ti-force's review of a couple Quarks (btw, ti-force is the only CPF reviewer that claims very accurate lumens using laboratory tested calibration lights). This scale is lower than that used by Selfbuilt, and most Chinese domicile companies - for example, the best I can get off my 1st gen ZL SC52 is ~230/440 lms from an Eneloop/14500 (all the other modes are similarly off as well).

My measurements on a fully charged OEM cell are as follows, runtime calculated assuming 550mah batt spec is correct:

- Max 1000-1050 lms, 3A current draw, 11 mins calc assuming continuous 
- Medium 280 lms, 0.514A, 66 mins
- Low 17 lms, 35ma, 16 hours
- Moonlight 0.25 lms, 4ma, 138 hours 

My sample holds max (very flat) for 30 seconds, and then ramps down over the next 10 sec. to ~325 lms and then regulates flat again - I don't know where the 15sec comes in, except to say it could be 47s "under promise/over deliver" thing, and also perhaps to technically qualify for the 30sec ANSI FL1 rule. The light seems to hold a flat 1k+ over 4V, and I'm even getting a flat 800+ at 3.6something V. The head gets warm, but nothing uncomfortable against your upper lip. 

For those that aren't familiar with 47s take on memory mode, it is unique in that if you turn on to a memory mode, then the next mode in the sequence will always revert to the first mode the series (i.e., low in stock #6 config). But if you start cycling, and don't turn off, then it will continuously loop cycle as most other lights. When cycling this light, the off period seems to need to be very short... I seem to be skipping medium often if I'm not fast enough. 

I'm impressed, and happy to see that 47 is still sticking to honest lumens. Maybe some else would like to do a low mode runtime test to see if the 550 mah capacity is right. That's all for now, hope it helps.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 13, 2016)

reppans said:


> I got mine in and did some output and current tests....
> 
> My sample holds max (very flat) for 30 seconds, and then ramps down over the next 10 sec. to ~325 lms and then regulates flat again - I don't know where the 15sec comes in, except to say it could be 47s "under promise/over deliver" thing, and also perhaps to technically qualify for the 30sec ANSI FL1 rule....
> 
> ...



That's a huge help, reppans! Solid numbers that confirm my impressions.

I hope that they *did* write the code for a 30-second ramp-down, since that way it is both ANSI-compliant and also more directly comparable to other lights.

Interesting that the ramp-down takes ten seconds--that probably explains why I had some general sense that it was dimmer at 60 seconds, but could not be sure. The eye is a surprisingly bad lumen-meter!


----------



## holygeez03 (Nov 13, 2016)

Seems like FourSevens is definitely taking full advantage of the ANSI 30-second measurement standard... is it literally a timed step-down, or temperature based?

In my opinion, this is a 325 lumen light with a 1,000 lumen burst mode.

No mode between 17lms (16 hrs) and 280lms (1 hour)? Or is there a way to re-configure the mode spacing?


----------



## matrixshaman (Nov 13, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Nice pix, Matrixshaman--very helpful!
> 
> "speculate" above on thread was curious about the flood on this beam: "Would love to see how the flood is on this light."
> 
> ...



You are totally right - that describes it much better. I've been away from CPF too long - LOL.


----------



## matrixshaman (Nov 13, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> By the way, M-S: what was your experience with the step-down from turbo, when using the 4/7s battery?



I have actually never run it more than about 10 seconds on turbo. I'll have to try that with the Lumen meter to see if there is a noticeable drop. Probably tomorrow. edit: Cancel that - see reppans post - thanks reppans.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 13, 2016)

reppans said:


> I got mine in and did some output and current tests.
> 
> For the record, my lightbox is calibrated to what I believe to be US ANSI and ties up closely with my HDS 325 (@0.02 and 325) and ti-force's review of a couple Quarks (btw, ti-force is the only CPF reviewer that claims very accurate lumens using laboratory tested calibration lights). This scale is lower than that used by Selfbuilt, and most Chinese domicile companies - for example, the best I can get off my 1st gen ZL SC52 is ~230/440 lms from an Eneloop/14500 (all the other modes are similarly off as well).
> 
> ...



Thanks for the excellent data! That will save me digging out my light meter as I said above - I'm sure your numbers are a lot more exact and meaningful here. That's great to know you got those results with a real and accurate light sphere. This light rocks! :twothumbs

Regarding the off period you mentioned I also noticed it's very brief. I had a hard time initially getting it into configuration mode which requires the 10 on-off cycles. I found the easiest way to do that was to twist it to the point where the light just turns on and then back it off just enough so it goes off. Then squeeze the front half to the back half which I found can be done quickly squeezing and releasing to get the 10 cycles.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 13, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> Thanks for the excellent data! That will save me digging out my light meter as I said above - I'm sure your numbers are a lot more exact and meaningful here. That's great to know you got those results with a real and accurate light sphere. This light rocks! :twothumbs



Yeah, I'm thinking it's a winner. 

But I agree with the criticism about the mode-spacing. The medium really should be in the 100 lumen range, given that the high settles down to 325 after 30 seconds.

(And I don't object to calling this a 325 High with a 1000 lumen Burst-Mode, as holygeez03 suggests. Pretty much everyone's top output level these days is a burst-mode, and if it's not a timed step-down after that then it's a temperature-regulated step-down. I don't see that as false advertising or bad design. Just the opposite: if you design a light so that its max output is limited to what it can sustain for hours on end, then you'll be leaving a lot of useful capability on the table, not taken advantage of. Why not give me the option of that sustainable hours-on-end level as one of the middle levels, and also give me access to the far higher burst-modes?)


----------



## defbear (Nov 13, 2016)

I received mine today. The magnetic charger works quickly. The light is indeed super bright for it's size. It took these feeble fingers a bit to get the timing right to reliably change modes. It takes a very quick off-on. The step down is a gradule dimming. Very hard to notice when it starts. The pocket clip lets you carry it bezel up or down and does not touch the head of the light. The threads work very smoothly. With the cool-guy charger and battery and two clips I think this light is a bargain as well.


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## UnknownVT (Nov 13, 2016)

reppans said:


> I got mine in and did some output and current tests.
> For the record, my lightbox is calibrated to what I believe to be US ANSI and ties up closely with my HDS 325 (@0.02 and 325) and ti-force's review of a couple Quarks



Thank you so much for the figures -
I'll link your post in -

*




RUSH REVIEW - 4Sevens Mini Mk II (1020 lumens)*


The closest flashlight I have to compare - 4Sevens QP2L-X with its 780 lumens burst mode


----------



## speculate (Nov 14, 2016)

I emailed Foursevens about the step down and they said:
'Yes the light is constant and for 15 seconds it hits 1020 lumens. Then it will gradually ramp down to 50% of that.



The light actually goes down to 550 but the light has thermal protection so if the light gets to hot it will drop down to 300.

TJ'




Although it says step down to 300 after 15 seconds on the website, apparently it steps down to 550, then another drop to 300 after the thermal regulation kicks in.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 14, 2016)

Assuming my Mark II starts to step-down at 15 seconds, it takes another ten seconds before I'm able to notice the reduction in output. I've no regrets concerning the purchase of this light. The Mini Mark II is truly an amazing light. :twothumbs

~ Chance


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## oKtosiTe (Nov 15, 2016)

defbear said:


> I received mine today. The magnetic charger works quickly. The light is indeed super bright for it's size. It took these feeble fingers a bit to get the timing right to reliably change modes. It takes a very quick off-on. The step down is a gradule dimming. Very hard to notice when it starts. The pocket clip lets you carry it bezel up or down and does not touch the head of the light. The threads work very smoothly. With the cool-guy charger and battery and two clips I think this light is a bargain as well.


Heh, your post confused me to a degree. I though you meant an Olight S1R style external charger at first, and was about to comment that this light doesn't have internal charging. I should have read your entire post.


----------



## andrewnewman (Nov 15, 2016)

I'm curious for folks who have received their lights with battery if you could answer a question. On the FourSevens site David keeps reinforcing that you need a 10C battery and makes reference to the fact that Foursevens "special" battery has some sort of protection. This confuses me. I presumed that the battery is just the rebranded Olight IMR which is rated at 5C or 2.75A. The battery is unprotected. Further, the maximum draw for this light (based upon a review) is 3A. So is the FourSevens battery some truly special battery with 10C discharge *and* protection? Further, does anyone believe you really need 10C (~5.5A for a 550mA battery) to get full brightness?


----------



## mattodio (Nov 15, 2016)

The battery that came with is a RCR123A
3.7V 550 mAh 5C for high-drain devices, built in protection

Tbh I cannot tell a difference between it and an AW IMR but I also dont have an accurate measuring device besides my eyes. 

I was thinking it would have came with an IMR since it said special battery on the web site, but i guess any good old RCR is enought to pump out the 1020


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## andrewnewman (Nov 15, 2016)

mattodio said:


> The battery that came with is a RCR123A
> 3.7V 550 mAh 5C for high-drain devices, built in protection
> 
> Tbh I cannot tell a difference between it and an AW IMR but I also dont have an accurate measuring device besides my eyes.
> ...


Thanks. So the battery sure *looks* the same as a 550maH 5C Olight IMR battery. How sure are you that this battery has a protection circuit? Can you feel it in the negative end of the battery or note the characteristic strap down the side of the battery? I'm just curious. Does is say "built in protection" on the battery itself? Thanks so much for this information.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 15, 2016)

A picture is worth a thousand words. I can't feel anything on the negative end or the side of the battery. :shakehead

~ CG


----------



## andrewnewman (Nov 15, 2016)

Thanks! It looks like there is a metal cap on the positive end that probably contains the circuit. This is more common these days (Fenix cells etc...).


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner (Nov 15, 2016)

You're welcome. 

Moonlight mode.


----------



## reppans (Nov 16, 2016)

Battery comments FWIW...

Got a chance to do a runtime test on low - mine ran for almost exactly 17hrs, and the output was a flat 16-17lms (good regulation). That's ~280 lm-hrs from a 2 W-h battery. I usually test 1xEneloop lights and the best I've seen is ~280 lm-hrs from a 2.4 W-h Eneloop (Quark XPG2 and SC52 ~20 lms) - I suppose the difference being boost drivers are less efficient than buck. 

I metered the battery toward the end of the run and got:
3.58V @ 12:30
3.53V @ 14:00
3.48V @ 15:00
3.40V @ 16:15
Protection tripped at 17:00
3.04V immediately after reset (note: while the charger seems to charge regardless of polarity, the reset seems to work only one way, so I marked the heads +/-)

Using a Drok USB multimeter (these things are great for $15), the charger drew 565mah @ ~5.15V and 2/3A from the wallwart while under CC (full charge from empty). In practice, the wallwart mah output is a reasonably good indicator of the mah that makes it into the battery, with the 20-25% voltage difference representing the conversion losses. Cell always comes off at 4.22V, and it took ~1:15hrs to fully charge.

Also ran max output @ 3.55V for 1min (performed normally), which brought V down to 3.50. Tried it again, and the circuit tripped in ~5 secs. Reset and tried again on Medium, and I think it tripped in a minute or two. So the edge of the battery cliff is ~3.50V (and matches the graph below) for med/max outputs.

I agree with Andrew that this cell probably the same as Olight's protected 5C IMR given it has the same PCB? seam near the head, same written specs, and David's Olight affiliation. Knowing David/47s, as a true US owned/operated company in the litigious US, my GUESS is that the battery is based on AWs new 15C IMR that HKJ has tested HERE - this cell would meet the 10C requirement Andrew mentions above, but is probably under spec'd for lawyer labeling/conservatism. David/47s has to make sure their products are as idiot proof as possible using proprietary batteries (eg, Regen), protection circuits (47s won't sell unprotected IMRs), and under spec'd (5C labeling), because some Joe Six Pack American will find a way to burn his house down and bring lawsuit. Think I'll pick up a couple of those Olight 5Cs for my burst mode Quarks on 1CR123 tubes. 

Whatever cell is in there, it's an IMR based on the voltage characteristics. I usually use protected ICRs and like to recharge in the 60-80% (~3.8-3.7V) depleted range since frequent top-up charging wears li-ions out faster. The equivalent 60-80% depleted range for an IMR will be in the 3.65-3.55V range. The Drok mah indicator matches up closely - charged from 3.8V only ~200mah went in, from 3.65V ~300mah went in. A screen shot from HKJs comparator comparing the discharge curves for the IMR 15C to an ICR. The 0.1A curve is a close approximation of resting voltage (all my numbers are resting V).


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## UnknownVT (Nov 16, 2016)

reppans said:


> Battery comments FWIW...
> 
> Got a chance to do a runtime test on low
> ...



Thank you so much for this valuable information - very impressive.

Again, I have linked your post in -

[h=3]




RUSH REVIEW - 4Sevens Mini Mk II (1020 lumens)[/h]
Thank you


----------



## reppans (Nov 16, 2016)

To get back to some posts..



holygeez03 said:


> ..is it literally a timed step-down, or temperature based?



I would guess timed, but I've done all my runs at consistent 67F ambient.



matrixshaman said:


> .. I'm sure your numbers are a lot more exact and meaningful here. That's great to know you got those results with a real and accurate light sphere..



I don't have a sphere, I'm using a DIY plumbing pipe special w/LX1330 lux meter - it's a standard light box the BLF guys are using. I'm comfortable with it based on how it matches ti-force's review of the QT2L-X BM (all modes), HDS (min/max), and a few other Quarks (most modes). 



UnknownVT said:


> Thank you so much for the figures -
> I'll link your post in -
> 
> The closest flashlight I have to compare - 4Sevens QP2L-X with its 780 lumens burst mode



You look like you're using a DSLR... you know you that you can actually use its light meter as a serviceable lumen meter? Not as good a lux meter, but far better than the eye can distinguish, and better than a pix comparison. 1/3stops get a bit wide for metering max output, but it has great accuracy at the lower/sub lumen range (actually all I really care about). Just need a beam diffuser, or bounced sample, and calibrate too/solve for shutter speed. Eg, calibrate your QP2L-X to 1/800 of sec, and you should see 1/1000 from the mini. 

Note here guys: I can no longer get the 1000+ lumens readings as I did on the first day. I'm now more in the 850-950 range on >4V and 700-850 range <4V. Perhaps too many repeated ~50 sec Max output runs has weakened the light, or battery, somewhat. Still a killer pocket rocket. 

On a personal preference note (I'm a low lumen/efficiency nut):
- disappointed the moonlight is so far off. I love the "bright" ~0.4 lm moonlights of my recent Quarks - it's my most often used mode/light. 1 lm spec would have been a good equivalent for this floody low lux beam, esp. with the giant step to 17 lms. 
- not a fan of the mode spacing: 0.25 > 17 is too big gap, while 250 > 1000 is too close (you can see a 3-4x difference while mode switching, but it's hard to tell which mode it is from off/memory). I usually don't go for bright lights because they always seem to forfeit good low mode spacing. IMHO a tiny capacity light like this should take better advantage of battery-efficient mode spacing. An even 10x spacing of 1/10/100/1000 would really ring the bell for me, and would make a lot more sense for the CR123/non-combo version (currently 500/300 max to > 250 med??) Love the Quarks 0.3/3/30/300 ish spacing - but I guess I'm one of the few low lumen/runtime guys on CPF.
- The off-on timing to get reliable mode switching is too short. Still skipping modes too much, need to set everything up just so to get reliable switching. This would frustrate the non flashaholics.
- Clip seems strong and love the recess so it doesn't rotate. Floody beam is great for headlamp mode on a ball cap (although 0.25/17 mode spacing is bit too dim/blinding, respectively, for me). I'd reduce the knurling under the tip of the clip... to save pocket chew.
- high beacon/low beacon seem the same on my sample, full output.


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## speculate (Nov 17, 2016)

Has anyone else been having issues contacting foursevens lately?
I ordered 2 flashlights on November 4th (mini mark 2 combo first wave, and quark smart light) but only received the quark smart light, in what i can only assume is a packing error.
I've tried contacting them through email and phone but they haven't responded to email nor their phone for the past few days now.
Was really excited to get the mini mark 2 but unsure what to do now.. Any tips on how I can reach them?


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## Nake (Nov 17, 2016)

According to their site, the Mini is on backorder.


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## andrewnewman (Nov 25, 2016)

Just took delivery of my new Mini Mark II from the "second wave". Nothing substantive to add on this thread from a "metrics" perspective but I can confirm that it is a wonderful EDC. My first 4Sevens light was the original Mini and I can say without a doubt that this light is a significant refinement from the first series. The clip is great (unlike the Olight clips that are hard as heck to get in and out of my pocket) and the fit and finish is top notch. A bit green on low :sigh: but otherwise excellent for a CW pocket light. Can't wait until it gets dark.


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## speculate (Nov 29, 2016)

Finally received my light after a month. Does anyone else's light run extremely hot to the touch when on max brightness after 15-30 seconds? As in, too hot to keep your hands on it. Im just wondering if this is normal or if I got a lemon.


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## mattodio (Nov 30, 2016)

speculate said:


> Finally received my light after a month. Does anyone else's light run extremely hot to the touch when on max brightness after 15-30 seconds? As in, too hot to keep your hands on it. Im just wondering if this is normal or if I got a lemon.


Just tested, mine gets warm but never turns into a hot potato. Ambient temp is about 70°


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## andrewnewman (Nov 30, 2016)

Nope. Just slightly warm. I *do* have lights that are literally too hot to touch after about 30 seconds. This one is just slightly warm. It steps down right around that point (~15-20 seconds) and seems to run around body temp.


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## Gadgetman7 (Dec 2, 2016)

Mine never gets really hot. I have to say I'd kind of given up on Foursevens but this one is great!


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## wacbzz (Dec 3, 2016)

I love that these limited edition versions now have the neutral XM-L2 U3 in them, but hate that it cannot be had in the black aluminum...


----------



## Blackbeard (Dec 3, 2016)

dang, that's a sweet little light, but a little over my budget


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## speculate (Dec 4, 2016)

Hey, so I ordered a Mini MK 2 combo kit that came with a rechargeable CR123 battery (The red ones). 
I've been using the light for about 5 days now. When I charge the battery and put it in the flashlight, it seems to last a lot less than the time stated. Also, it suddenly shuts off and the battery would no longer power the light until I charge it again. There is also no gradual dimming to indicate the lowering of the battery level; rather it shuts off instantly and I have to charge it again to use it at all. I can't even use it on the lowest level after it instantly 'shuts off'. I can see this being possibly dangerous in certain situations (such as camping, or in emergency situations). If I put different battery in the light it works, so Im pretty sure it's not the light itself. I think it is just the battery. Now after I use the flex charger with the battery, it flashes red and doesn't charge at all. Does this sound like a bad battery?


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## Blackbeard (Dec 4, 2016)

what did you put in its place a primary non rechargable 123 or another 123a rechargable? just curious if you maybe fried something charging a non rechargable, also do you know if the one that comes with it is protected or not?


----------



## andrewnewman (Dec 4, 2016)

speculate said:


> Hey, so I ordered a Mini MK 2 combo kit that came with a rechargeable CR123 battery (The red ones).
> I've been using the light for about 5 days now. When I charge the battery and put it in the flashlight, it seems to last a lot less than the time stated. Also, it suddenly shuts off and the battery would no longer power the light until I charge it again. There is also no gradual dimming to indicate the lowering of the battery level; rather it shuts off instantly and I have to charge it again to use it at all. I can't even use it on the lowest level after it instantly 'shuts off'. I can see this being possibly dangerous in certain situations (such as camping, or in emergency situations). If I put different battery in the light it works, so Im pretty sure it's not the light itself. I think it is just the battery. Now after I use the flex charger with the battery, it flashes red and doesn't charge at all. Does this sound like a bad battery?


Short version: You tripped the protection circuit on the battery. Longer Version: Most flashlights that can use both primary and rechargeable single cells will rely on the battery to protect itself from over-discharge. That way they can provide useful illumination with a primary cell down to ~2.0V while still supporting rechargeable cells. (There are exceptions that attempt to intuit the battery chemistry based on voltage).

A LiIon charger should reset the protection circuit on the battery. If the magnetic charger you got with the unit flashes red, try reversing the polarity. I bet in one orientation it will reset the circuit.


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## magellan (Dec 4, 2016)

andrewnewman said:


> Short version: You tripped the protection circuit on the battery. Longer Version: Most flashlights that can use both primary and rechargeable single cells will rely on the battery to protect itself from over-discharge. That way they can provide useful illumination with a primary cell down to ~2.0V while still supporting rechargeable cells. (There are exceptions that attempt to intuit the battery chemistry based on voltage).
> 
> A LiIon charger should reset the protection circuit on the battery. If the magnetic charger you got with the unit flashes red, try reversing the polarity. I bet in one orientation it will reset the circuit.



Great post on the possible problems "under the hood." I'd wondered myself if reversing the battery would reset the protection circuit in a situation like this, as I experienced a similar problem in a light a while ago, unfortunately I don't recall what make and model it was. But it didn't occur to me at the time to reverse the battery. I figured I'd tripped the low voltage protection circuit, though, so I tried swapping in several newly charged batteries, where the light operated inormally, and then went back to the discharged one, and then back to the fully charged ones, and the problem finally cleared.


----------



## speculate (Dec 4, 2016)

andrewnewman said:


> Short version: You tripped the protection circuit on the battery. Longer Version: Most flashlights that can use both primary and rechargeable single cells will rely on the battery to protect itself from over-discharge. That way they can provide useful illumination with a primary cell down to ~2.0V while still supporting rechargeable cells. (There are exceptions that attempt to intuit the battery chemistry based on voltage).
> 
> A LiIon charger should reset the protection circuit on the battery. If the magnetic charger you got with the unit flashes red, try reversing the polarity. I bet in one orientation it will reset the circuit.



Hey, thanks for the information! Reversing the polarity worked. It is now charging again. Now the remaining issue I have is that the protection circuit of the battery is tripped often it seems.. Is this normal for the battery? or should I be contacting foursevens about replacing it? Isn't a battery pretty useless if the protection circuit is tripping all the time, rendering the light powerless? Also, is there any chance it is the problem with the light itself that is causing this?


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## speculate (Dec 4, 2016)

Blackbeard said:


> what did you put in its place a primary non rechargable 123 or another 123a rechargable? just curious if you maybe fried something charging a non rechargable, also do you know if the one that comes with it is protected or not?



I put a non-rechargeable 123 in its place. Those ones have always worked normally so far.
I believe the rechargeable 123 that comes with the Mini MK2 combo kit is protected. It has a red band to differentiate it from the other blue banded non rechargeable foursevens 123s.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Dec 4, 2016)

speculate said:


> Hey, thanks for the information! Reversing the polarity worked. It is now charging again. Now the remaining issue I have is that the protection circuit of the battery is tripped often it seems.. Is this normal for the battery? or should I be contacting foursevens about replacing it? Isn't a battery pretty useless if the protection circuit is tripping all the time, rendering the light powerless? Also, is there any chance it is the problem with the light itself that is causing this?



If I was experiencing the same problem, I'd contact FourSevens toot-sweet. Please be careful with any non-properly functioning flashlight, and/or rechargeable battery. Again, if it was me, I'd set that battery aside until contacting FourSevens. Better safe than sorry.  

~ Chance


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## Blackbeard (Dec 4, 2016)

sounds like the battery has an issue, but you never know, you will get more output with rechargable, you might want to get the whole kit replaced to be on the safe side.


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## jag-engr (Dec 5, 2016)

matrixshaman said:


> Thread comparison between regular 4sevens Mini and the Mini Mark II (on the right):



I would guess from this picture that the old Mini and Mini Mk II parts are not interchangeable, correct?


----------



## jag-engr (Dec 5, 2016)

I'm really tempted by the new titanium Mini with a neutral tint LED: http://www.foursevens.com/products/ML-IIC-FF

It checks a lot of boxes for me, but I'm a little concerned about titanium-on-titanium threads. I've never had a good experience with titanium twisties.


----------



## lampeDépêche (Dec 5, 2016)

wacbzz said:


> I love that these limited edition versions now have the neutral XM-L2 U3 in them, but hate that it cannot be had in the black aluminum...



Thanks, jag-engr, I finally understand what wacbzz was talking about, now that you posted that link to the Ti version of the new Mini Mk II.

And I exactly agree with wacbzz: I want this thing in neutral, with Al. 

Look: this thing is a pocket-rocket that has heat-management problems. Ti only exacerbates those, a lot. Ti is such a lousy conductor that all of the heat sits right in the head where it is generated. Al lets the heat go throughout the body, and then into your hand.

So this seems like a real confusion about design. I love the neutral! Can't stand the Ti.


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## eraursls1984 (Dec 5, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> ...Look this thing is a pocket-rocket that has heat-management problems. Ti only exacerbates those, a lot. Ti is such a lousy conductor that all of the heat sits right in the head where it is generated. Al lets the heat go throughout the body, and then into your hand.
> 
> So this seems like a real confusion about design. I love the neutral! Can't stand the Ti.


Why not get even better heat sinking with Cu then?


----------



## kreisl (Dec 5, 2016)

RAINBOX PVD TITANIUM FINISH:

http://www.foursevens.com/product_info.php?products_id=3398


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## andrewnewman (Dec 5, 2016)

speculate said:


> Hey, thanks for the information! Reversing the polarity worked. It is now charging again. Now the remaining issue I have is that the protection circuit of the battery is tripped often it seems.. Is this normal for the battery? or should I be contacting foursevens about replacing it? Isn't a battery pretty useless if the protection circuit is tripping all the time, rendering the light powerless? Also, is there any chance it is the problem with the light itself that is causing this?


I would run a simple test. Put the flashlight in "medium" mode with a freshly charged battery. If it trips the protection circuit much faster than 60 minutes I'd hit up foursevens for a replacement battery (yours is defective). It's unlikely (but possible) the light has a flaw but I'm guessing you might just have a bad battery. Best of luck.


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 5, 2016)

kreisl said:


> RAINBOX PVD TITANIUM FINISH:
> 
> http://www.foursevens.com/product_info.php?products_id=3398



Where are you folks finding these links to great new lights?

I go to the 4/7s website, and I cannot find them under the menus. And I am on their mailing-list, but they have not sent me links to them.

So now they have the Mini Mk II in Al, regular Ti, and DHT Ti. Copper, too, or is that just an idea to consider?

ETA: duh...it's a drop-down menu of finishes. Okay: now I get it! 

Yes, copper in two colors, as well as TI in two colors.


----------



## Lucky Duck (Dec 5, 2016)

Any word on what the color temp / tint of the "neutral white LED" might be? 5K perhaps?


----------



## craniotes (Dec 5, 2016)

Al and bead-blasted Ti en route...

Okay, now I'm deleting this site from my "favorites" list; too much money's been blown in the past couple of weeks thanks to the S1R Baton, S Mini (Rainbow PVD and Going Gear Brass LE), and now the Mk II.

Ugh.

Regards,
Adam


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## UnknownVT (Dec 6, 2016)

I know some have been clamoring for this - in my email today -











*



RUSH REVIEW - 4Sevens Mini Mk II (1020 lumens)*


of the regular black aluminum version


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## ZMZ67 (Dec 6, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> I'm really tempted by the new titanium Mini with a neutral tint LED: http://www.foursevens.com/products/ML-IIC-FF
> 
> It checks a lot of boxes for me, but I'm a little concerned about titanium-on-titanium threads. I've never had a good experience with titanium twisties.



That Ti looks pretty nice to me as well with a neutral LED but I have the same concerns. Would rather have aluminum in a twisty but I may take a look at one of the heavier copper models I just don't trust the Ti in a twisty.


----------



## Specktrum (Dec 6, 2016)

I looked but couldn't see if this has been brought up. Has foursevens dropped the specs on the 1020 output to 980 now?
I noticed this change for the combo pack in the last few days and the colored versions as well.


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 6, 2016)

The higher CCT (cool) version is still 1020 lumens. The ones with the newer finishes are lower CCT (neutral) and have a correspondingly lower output of 980 lumens.


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## jag-engr (Dec 7, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Look: this thing is a pocket-rocket that has heat-management problems. Ti only exacerbates those, a lot. Ti is such a lousy conductor that all of the heat sits right in the head where it is generated. Al lets the heat go throughout the body, and then into your hand.





ZMZ67 said:


> That Ti looks pretty nice to me as well with a neutral LED but I have the same concerns. Would rather have aluminum in a twisty but I may take a look at one of the heavier copper models I just don't trust the Ti in a twisty.



I've personally never been a big fan of copper lights because of the smell and the weight, but they do dissipate heat better than aluminum. The Autumn PVD coating looks really nice and at least negates the smell issue. To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium. The Autumn PVD Copper is still chunky (a fully 0.52 oz heavier than titanium), but it may be a good trade-off.


----------



## lampeDépêche (Dec 7, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> I've personally never been a big fan of copper lights because of the smell and the weight, but they do dissipate heat better than aluminum. The Autumn PVD coating looks really nice and at least negates the smell issue. To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium. The Autumn PVD Copper is still chunky (a fully 0.52 oz heavier than titanium), but it may be a good trade-off.



I suspect that the PVD coating will also have been applied to the threads i.e. the whole unit will have been treated after the threads were cut. That may make the copper threads a bit harder and more brass-like on the Autumn Copper version.

Tempting...except that I don't need another light!


----------



## eraursls1984 (Dec 7, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium.


Titanium threads dont hold up well? The only issue I've ever heard of with titanium threads is galling. I don't have a ton of experience with copper threads, but so far they don't seem to hold up near as well as my titanium lights.


----------



## ZMZ67 (Dec 7, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> I've personally never been a big fan of copper lights because of the smell and the weight, but they do dissipate heat better than aluminum. The Autumn PVD coating looks really nice and at least negates the smell issue. To my knowledge, copper threads hold up pretty well - not as well as brass, but better than titanium. The Autumn PVD Copper is still chunky (a fully 0.52 oz heavier than titanium), but it may be a good trade-off.





lampeDépêche said:


> I suspect that the PVD coating will also have been applied to the threads i.e. the whole unit will have been treated after the threads were cut. That may make the copper threads a bit harder and more brass-like on the Autumn Copper version.
> 
> Tempting...except that I don't need another light!



My thought process kind of runs along these lines. I am not that interested in copper either but I do like the look of brass and the Autumn Copper has a similar appearance.

Hate to pass up a chance to get a neutral 4Sevens light but I have no need for another light either though so I will have to think it over.


----------



## jag-engr (Dec 7, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> I suspect that the PVD coating will also have been applied to the threads i.e. the whole unit will have been treated after the threads were cut. That may make the copper threads a bit harder and more brass-like on the Autumn Copper version.


I have no experience with PVD on threads, but I would guess that it is similar to anodization on threads, which generally helps a lot.



lampeDépêche said:


> Tempting...except that I don't need another light!





ZMZ67 said:


> Hate to pass up a chance to get a neutral 4Sevens light but I have no need for another light either though so I will have to think it over.


Alright, you two - it's time to turn in your CPF membership cards.


----------



## jag-engr (Dec 7, 2016)

eraursls1984 said:


> Titanium threads dont hold up well? The only issue I've ever heard of with titanium threads is galling.


That's the problem we are all talking about. Not a huge deal for titanium clickies, but for a twist light, titanium threads tend to bind from galling. I had to return my first generation titanium 4Sevens AA Mini because it galled terribly.



eraursls1984 said:


> I don't have a ton of experience with copper threads, but so far they don't seem to hold up near as well as my titanium lights.


What failure mechanism have you observed in your copper lights? galling? cross-threading? oxidation?


----------



## NutSAK (Dec 7, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> What failure mechanism have you observed in your copper lights? galling? cross-threading? oxidation?



I'm interested in this also. There's a lot of discussion of copper lights these days, and I haven't seen many people complaining about any issues. The Mark II Mini is the first light I will own in copper.


----------



## eraursls1984 (Dec 7, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> That's the problem we are all talking about. Not a huge deal for titanium clickies, but for a twist light, titanium threads tend to bind from galling. I had to return my first generation titanium 4Sevens AA Mini because it galled terribly.
> 
> 
> What failure mechanism have you observed in your copper lights? galling? cross-threading? oxidation?


There is no failure. I just noticed that the head is looser on the Cu light after changing the battery a handful of times. I have no idea if this will become an issue, but my Ti twisty lights did not show this slight wear even after hundreds of twists.


----------



## icharry (Dec 7, 2016)

Just got mine in the mail... I'm sort of a flashaholic noob - this is to replace my 10(?) year old Maratac AAA EDC. Should I do anything - grease the threads, charge the battery 1st (or is it already charged), anything?

Also am I correct in reading the instructions that a regular CR123A battery will actually give it longer runtimes in the lower modes?


----------



## ZMZ67 (Dec 7, 2016)

jag-engr said:


> I have no experience with PVD on threads, but I would guess that it is similar to anodization on threads, which generally helps a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, you two - it's time to turn in your CPF membership cards.



No way that is going to happen! :laughing: Just trying to stay on budget


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## wacbzz (Dec 7, 2016)

Not trying to be negative here, but I'm wondering why FourSevens has chosen to put a neutral LED in a limited/"exotic finish" light - especially given the multiple requests in the FourSevens subforum for more neutral lights. 

What sense does does it make to put the much requested neutral LED in an expensive "one off " (in this case, "four offs") instead of just the standard black AL light? _if they don't sell out_, how easy will it be to say "See, we offered neutral lights again and they didn't sell as well as the cool LED lights...?"


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## oKtosiTe (Dec 8, 2016)

wacbzz said:


> Not trying to be negative here, but I'm wondering why FourSevens has chosen to put a neutral LED in a limited/"exotic finish" light - especially given the multiple requests in the FourSevens subforum for more neutral lights.
> 
> What sense does does it make to put the much requested neutral LED in an expensive "one off " (in this case, "four offs") instead of just the standard black AL light? _if they don't sell out_, how easy will it be to say "See, we offered neutral lights again and they didn't sell as well as the cool LED lights...?"


I have to wonder how much of an issue they will really have getting these lights sold. Do we know how many they are producing?


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## NutSAK (Dec 8, 2016)

wacbzz said:


> Not trying to be negative here, but I'm wondering why FourSevens has chosen to put a neutral LED in a limited/"exotic finish" light - especially given the multiple requests in the FourSevens subforum for more neutral lights.



Cheap, bright lights sell well to the general public, so they will opt for the cheapest finish with the highest lumen spec. Neutral, warm, high CRI tints and exotic finishes sell to flashoholics and collectors, who are a small portion of the market. As I understand it, David doesn't like to sell warmer emitters because he can't sell enough volume to make it worthwhile and, to me, pairing them seems a logical way of ensuring sales of neutral emitters.


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## Haz (Dec 12, 2016)

Does anyone know whether the 360 degree headlamp kit is compatible with the Mini Mark II or the limited edition Mini Mark II?

thanks
Haz


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 12, 2016)

Haz said:


> Does anyone know whether the 360 degree headlamp kit is compatible with the Mini Mark II or the limited edition Mini Mark II?
> 
> thanks
> Haz



I
haven't tried this yet with the 360 headlamp mount and the new Mini Mark II. 

However, the 360 mount certainly worked with the old Mini (using an O-ring as the spacer/gripper) and the new Mark II has the same barrel diameter, as far as I can tell. If it is off by a few microns, then the O-ring will make up the difference. 

So I cannot be absolutely confident that it will work, but I am very confident.


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## Haz (Dec 14, 2016)

thanks for you reply lampeDépêche, it will be handy to double as a headlamp.


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## Sandmage (Dec 16, 2016)

Has anyone had any experience with the Ti version? If so, how is the threading? Really wish they had the neutral tint on the black Al version as well...


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## craniotes (Dec 16, 2016)

Sandmage said:


> Has anyone had any experience with the Ti version? If so, how is the threading? Really wish they had the neutral tint on the black Al version as well...


I have it. Verdict: Looks great/threads suck. Tint is okay, but there's definitely some green evident on low. 

I also have the aluminum version, which is perfect in every way, provided you're into a CW tint. 

Regards,
Adam


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## Sandmage (Dec 17, 2016)

Thanks craniotes. I'll take CW over green any day...


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## ZMZ67 (Dec 17, 2016)

I received my Autumn PVD copper Mini Mk II today. Just been playing with it a bit but here are my impressions. Tint is OK, not the best neutral I have but I am partial to slighly warmer color temp. Finish is excellent and the threads seem to be fine and of course it feels heavy due to the copper body. Beam is pretty much like the Olight S1/SMini but brighter with the supplied li-ion.With a CR123 it doesn't seem quite as bright as the SMini. I think the clip is a good design but it doesn't work for me on the Mini Mk II so I replaced it with the lanyard attachment and migrated the clip to my Smini where it fits perfectly.Still getting used to the UI but I like the fact it has options. If there were an aluminum neutral version I would consider it for EDC but this one will probably not see much carry time with the xtra weight and being a limited edition.


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## 7hns (Dec 19, 2016)

Can you get the mk2 in titanium without the combo? Are there any pricing specials for the holidays? Anyone have this vs the Fenix e15?


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Dec 19, 2016)

7hns said:


> *Can you get the mk2 in titanium without the combo?* Are there any pricing specials for the holidays? Anyone have this vs the Fenix e15?


 
I e mailed FourSevens asking, that very question. I haven't received a reply. Let us know if you obtain the answer. Thanks. 

~ Chance


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## eraursls1984 (Dec 20, 2016)

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> I e mailed FourSevens asking, that very question. I haven't received a reply. Let us know if you obtain the answer. Thanks.
> 
> ~ Chance


David Chow said no. Kinda a turn off from ordering several.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Dec 20, 2016)

eraursls1984 said:


> David Chow said no. Kinda a turn off from ordering several.



Yes, that is disappointing. I purchased a charger with the preorder black. I don't really want to pay for a second charger. Are you able to provide the source of that information? Perhaps a link to a quote? Thank you, eraursls1984. 

~ Chance


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## defbear (Dec 20, 2016)

I bought the original CW Black model and like it. Light weight, super bright and smooth twisty action. I bought the Autumn Copper and bead blasted Titanium models as soon as they came out. The Copper is markedly heavier than the other two. The threads on the Copper are smooth. Perhaps they feel a bit slow. But smooth. Yes the Titanium threads feel tight. Not real gritty. Ok, smooth but quite hard to turn. I tried lightly lubricating the threads with NyoGel and the later really gooping up the threads. Helped. On the Titanium, I removed the o-ring and the action did not get better or smoother. If I press in a bit on the head while twisting it's much smoother. So an employee of mine gets the Titanium one for Christmas  I play string instruments and have at least medium strong hands and fingers. In a practical sense this is a two handed light. Once twisted on, the head clinches up and needs more pressure to twist off. Changing outputs reliably with one hand works best on the black version. The Copper I can turn on and off. Titanium? Glad I could turn it on with one hand. Many times need two hands to twist it off. 
The tint on both NW were identical. I do not see any green with mine. I have enough XP-L's to know what green is. (I think)


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## 7hns (Dec 20, 2016)

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> I e mailed FourSevens asking, that very question. I haven't received a reply. Let us know if you obtain the answer. Thanks.
> 
> ~ Chance



Agreed.A lot of money for the combo and the 1000 lumens is only for 15 seconds and then you are done, so what is the point? Great little light, absolutely, but the other options for body is appealing.


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## MKLight (Dec 22, 2016)

defbear said:


> I bought the original CW Black model and like it. Light weight, super bright and smooth twisty action. I bought the Autumn Copper and bead blasted Titanium models as soon as they came out. The Copper is markedly heavier than the other two. The threads on the Copper are smooth. Perhaps they feel a bit slow. But smooth. Yes the Titanium threads feel tight. Not real gritty. Ok, smooth but quite hard to turn. I tried lightly lubricating the threads with NyoGel and the later really gooping up the threads. Helped. On the Titanium, I removed the o-ring and the action did not get better or smoother. If I press in a bit on the head while twisting it's much smoother. So an employee of mine gets the Titanium one for Christmas  I play string instruments and have at least medium strong hands and fingers. In a practical sense this is a two handed light. Once twisted on, the head clinches up and needs more pressure to twist off. Changing outputs reliably with one hand works best on the black version. The Copper I can turn on and off. Titanium? Glad I could turn it on with one hand. Many times need two hands to twist it off.
> The tint on both NW were identical. I do not see any green with mine. I have enough XP-L's to know what green is. (I think)




I have the bead blasted Ti, too. I like the build quality. It looks more expensive then it is. In use, like you mentioned, it's not user friendly. It is a twisty, but to get it to reliably (90% of the time) switch modes, you have to partially twist and push to get the mode you want. I may try the aluminum version, but will see if I can exchange or return the Ti. It's disappointing...and I usually like their selection and have several of their lights, as well as duplicates of some. Also, I agree with your comments regarding tint. I generally like it. 

Best regards,
MK


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## defbear (Dec 23, 2016)

So I bought another TI. The Rainbow one. The threads on this one are not as 'tight'. This one operates not much worse than the aluminum black one. I'm pretty pleased. The person who received the bead blasted one I had, has been using it all over the shop. No one told him titanium was more grindy to twist so he just twists it fine with one hand. Everything always comes down to Point of View. My POV is that I like pretty much all the flashlights I've discovered on CPF. Thanks everybody


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## MKLight (Dec 23, 2016)

defbear said:


> So I bought another TI. The Rainbow one. The threads on this one are not as 'tight'. This one operates not much worse than the aluminum black one. I'm pretty pleased. The person who received the bead blasted one I had, has been using it all over the shop. No one told him titanium was more grindy to twist so he just twists it fine with one hand. Everything always comes down to Point of View. My POV is that I like pretty much all the flashlights I've discovered on CPF. Thanks everybody




Very true!!


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## 7hns (Dec 30, 2016)

Anyone here have an extra pocket clip they would like to part with?


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## jbarlow82 (Jan 1, 2017)

Im thinking about buying one just cant decide on which finish.


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## Woods Walker (Jan 2, 2017)

NutSAK said:


> Cheap, bright lights sell well to the general public, so they will opt for the cheapest finish with the highest lumen spec. Neutral, warm, high CRI tints and exotic finishes sell to flashoholics and collectors, who are a small portion of the market. As I understand it, David doesn't like to sell warmer emitters because he can't sell enough volume to make it worthwhile and, to me, pairing them seems a logical way of ensuring sales of neutral emitters.



Yup. He has said it over and over again. People on the forums complain about no NW/W/HCRI but then he can't sell enough to warrant the effort. I have one NW old 1XAA Mini and a CW 2XAA. Both are good and would consider buying a Mark 2 regardless of tint as the older ones have worked for me over the years without issue.


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## kreisl (Jan 2, 2017)

i'd take a pocket clip in polished titanium


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## spc (Jan 6, 2017)

Anyone ever have trouble changing modes with this light? I've never had a 47s light, this is my first and sometimes the modes jump around when changing..


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## NutSAK (Jan 6, 2017)

Yes. You must be very deliberate and quick at changing modes, and even then mine tends to skip moonlight mode frequently. I've had many 47's lights, and this is by far the worst at mode skipping I've owned. It's annoying at best.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Jan 6, 2017)

NutSAK said:


> Yes. You must be very deliberate and quick at changing modes, and even then mine tends to skip moonlight mode frequently. I've had many 47's lights, and *this is by far the worst at mode skipping I've owned. It's annoying at best.*


 

No more so than when you're showing it off to non-flashohalic friends. :hairpull: 

~ Chance


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## defbear (Jan 6, 2017)

I have Black, Autumn, Raw Copper and Rainbow Titanium. I must like these. Yes thay do skip around on the mode changing. Gotta be fast and firm in your twist  I like the fact that the memory mode is rock solid. I can set it how I want and know for sure it will be at that level whe I want it.


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## NutSAK (Jan 6, 2017)

defbear said:


> I have Black, Autumn, Raw Copper and Rainbow Titanium. I must like these. Yes thay do skip around on the mode changing. Gotta be fast and firm in your twist  I like the fact that the memory mode is rock solid. I can set it how I want and know for sure it will be at that level whe I want it.



...as long as you unscrew the head 1/2 turn before you put it in your pocket.


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## spc (Jan 6, 2017)

Glad it's not just me.. I did find that it is much more reliable with a regular cr123. Maybe the battery has something to do with it..


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## MKLight (Jan 6, 2017)

spc said:


> Glad it's not just me.. I did find that it is much more reliable with a regular cr123. Maybe the battery has something to do with it..




Interesting. I thought it was just me or possibly the Ti model. I guess I'm glad I'm not the only one...


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## reppans (Jan 7, 2017)

Yeah the light needs an unusually short OFF-ON sequence for reliable mode switching - two hand operation with bezel buried so as to not blind yourself.


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## Mojer (Feb 10, 2017)

How does the beam pattern of this light compare to the Mini ML? Is it more or less floody? Thanks!


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## NutSAK (Feb 10, 2017)

Mojer said:


> How does the beam pattern of this light compare to the Mini ML? Is it more or less floody? Thanks!



More floody. It has a larger hot spot with very wide spill without the abrupt "cutoff" like the reflector in the ML has.


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## Mojer (Feb 10, 2017)

NutSAK said:


> More floody. It has a larger hot spot with very wide spill without the abrupt "cutoff" like the reflector in the ML has.



Thanks.....would you say that, despite it being more floody, it throws further than the previous ML due to the fact that it has a higher lumen rating?


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## NutSAK (Feb 10, 2017)

Mojer said:


> Thanks.....would you say that, despite it being more floody, it throws further than the previous ML due to the fact that it has a higher lumen rating?



It's hard to say since I haven't compared them side-by-side, but I would estimate that it does. It's a huge area of light, but reaches out fairly well just on sheer output. Keep in mind that the high output is time-limited, however.


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## bugout (Feb 14, 2017)

Hi, All. Just checking in, as a new Mini Mk II owner. I got the bead-blasted titanium and I'm really happy with it. Mine skips modes, too, if I'm not "deliberate" in the twisting. After lubing with some Finish Line Extreme Fluoro (krytox), things are smoother.

Here's a trick for you... From on, untwist the head to where it just turns off, then squeeze the light to change modes very quickly. Works great.


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## speculate (Mar 20, 2017)

I'm surprised theres not more discussion on this light.
Is there anything else out there that is this small and outputs this many lumens?


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## android (Apr 3, 2017)

Just got the rainbow ti version, and while it's beautiful, am having some thread issues. The threads are really grindy, and I can not turn in with one hand. Also, because they are so stiff, I can't change the modes reliably. Any ideas on how to fix, or is it a lost cause?


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## Gadgetman7 (Apr 3, 2017)

It's titanium. It'll loosen up as you use it.


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## Weld Inspector (May 2, 2017)

I just got my second copper mini in the mail about an hr ago, the first one came on as soon as u installed the battery and would not shut off without removal of the head.

So I've been playing with the UI and I have to say I agree with most that mode change is quite annoying my copper preon does not have these issues I'm rather disappointed,
I love the overall appearance and feel and size of the light the 2 way clip is great too (optic down in my nasty work environment) but the mode changing is super bad I've settled on mode set 2 Hi and Lo only as it seems any other it gets hung up in a mode like moonlight and has me fidgeting with it and getting annoyed with it stuck in moonlight for 3 or four twists.

The charger tho I don't need it is quite innovative and I'm happy that it came with a battery.

Overall I guess I feel lukewarm about my second 47's light has me reconsidering if I want to drop the coin for the copper bolt action


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## aginthelaw (May 2, 2017)

I'm actually pissed at the one I received since it was a replacement for a light out for repair the past 5 months. I wanted the rainbow ti model but ended up with a plain ti model. Sucks to be me.


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## ZMZ67 (May 3, 2017)

Weld Inspector said:


> I just got my second copper mini in the mail about an hr ago, the first one came on as soon as u installed the battery and would not shut off without removal of the head.
> 
> So I've been playing with the UI and I have to say I agree with most that mode change is quite annoying my copper preon does not have these issues I'm rather disappointed,
> I love the overall appearance and feel and size of the light the 2 way clip is great too (optic down in my nasty work environment) but the mode changing is super bad I've settled on mode set 2 Hi and Lo only as it seems any other it gets hung up in a mode like moonlight and has me fidgeting with it and getting annoyed with it stuck in moonlight for 3 or four twists.
> ...



"Lukewarm" that is a great description for my feelings and I would guess some others as well. On one hand the Mk II is remarkably bright,nicely constructed and available in various versions that include my preferred neutral tint (A rarity from 4Sevens these days). On the other hand only the more expensive limited models offer neutral tints and the UI just doesn't work very well. If the the Mk II worked like my older Minis it would see some EDC time despite the xtra weight of the copper in my example but the need at times to use two hands for operation and the fact that the UI is unreliable keeps it sitting on the shelf.


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## lumenati (May 15, 2017)

I have been following the MKll, and CPF comments, since it came out. The 1000 lumens caught my attention. I fell in love with the Autumn Copper. Now, having sufficient funds and with Mom's 20% discount I have just ordered it and am looking forward to its arrival. My first expensive light (bought from Foursevens)(the first of many) was a $70 Fenix P1D CE, cr123, with roughly 90 OTF ANSI lumens. Soon I will have a Foursevens cr123, that puts out 1000 OTF ANSI lumens! And for only $60. And it includes a rechargeable battery. And a charger! And it is 5/8" shorter! And it's programmable! And it's solid copper with a PVD coating! What's not to like?! (Another Flashaholic -- off the wagon.)


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## aginthelaw (May 16, 2017)

So the batteries on the left are the longest and don't work with the light, whereas the ones on the right work perfectly and you don't have to torque down on the light to get it to turn on. I actually don't have a problem with foursevens or the light itself, just the way customer service at the vendor treated my problems so lightly.


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## lumenati (May 18, 2017)

Just received my Mark ll, Autumn Copper, and I could not be more pleased. It is beautiful! I also received its aluminum brother, which I will play with while I leave the Autumn Copper version in its heavy duty vacuum sealed package... at least for now. The amount of light that it puts out is quite impressive and while at 2.17" it is one of my smallest flashlights... it is second only in brightness to my Foursevens MMU-X3R! Simply brilliant!


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## lumenati (May 24, 2017)

Please excuse. I deleted a mistaken photo.


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## lumenati (May 24, 2017)

A TALE OF TWO MINIS.


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## burntoshine (May 26, 2017)

Got a rainbow Ti version..

Mode skipped like crazy..

But then I programmed it to be just low & hi and it doesn't mode skip anymore.

It's a lovely little light!


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## warpdrive (Oct 20, 2017)

looks like they are clearing out the special edition finishes (discounted, and limited quanities). Time to pick up the Autumn finish combo. I kind of lost interest in CR123 sized flashlights and started adopting a lot more AAA keychain lights, but this one is small enough I will consider getting one to EDC.

The autumn PVD finish looks great (less of a gaudy color than the other copper finish), and hopefully it will work well enough for switching modes. Twisty flashlights have never been my favorite when you have to switch modes, but I can live with it for an EDC that won't turn on accidentally in the pocket.


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## warpdrive (Oct 27, 2017)

got my clearance priced Cu Autumn Mini MkII combo. It's so CUTE. Now I have to rethink what flashlight to EDC






At the clearance price, thinking of picking up the titanium too. I still prefer the beam from the Surefires but the Mini is such a powerhouse for its size.


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## Woods Walker (Oct 28, 2017)

I have a normal copper one in the mail at the discount clearance price. Hope it runs good.


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Oct 28, 2017)

I have the Autum PVD Copper, rainbow Titanium & regular Titanium en route. That's in addition to the Cr2 Bolt & Mini-Bolt with a Titanium AO Atom with neutral led....between PayPal Credit & the Four Sevens sales I am in real trouble...
Hey Woods Walker, as long as the threads and O rings are kept lubricated these lights are rock solid for dependability. I picked up the Mini-Turbo a few weeks back and man is it an impressive little light. Considering how your lights appear to get the majority of their time in "real life" on the trail, instead of Safe & secure inside your home, the charger should be highly practical-you just pop the magnetic caps onto your 16340 & connect the USB to your portable power bank without regard to the positive or negative poles of the battery(the charger automatically determines polarity). Have you tried out the Four Sevens head band? It allows the mini's to be used as head lamps for hands free usage?


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## weez82 (Oct 28, 2017)

I received the Rainbow PVD Titanium and I must admit that Im not happy with it . The beam and tint are good and the brightness levels are good and the build quality is good. The problem I'm having is the head is way to difficult to twist. I have the WW Mini 123 and that is easy to twist and Ive had the AA and AA2 mini's and those were all easy to twist but this one is almost unusable . Maybe its because its Titanium and not Aluminum? I dont know.


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## Tachead (Oct 28, 2017)

I'm surprised they didn't revise the UI before releasing these and give them a slower cycle time. They clearly have an issue with cycling modes. Even David himself appears to have trouble using them as can be seen in this video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXfWlqk4l-w


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## Tachead (Oct 28, 2017)

weez82 said:


> I received the Rainbow PVD Titanium and I must admit that Im not happy with it . The beam and tint are good and the brightness levels are good and the build quality is good. The problem I'm having is the head is way to difficult to twist. I have the WW Mini 123 and that is easy to twist and Ive had the AA and AA2 mini's and those were all easy to twist but this one is almost unusable . Maybe its because its Titanium and not Aluminum? I dont know.



Titanium tends to have less smooth threads then most other materials. It should smooth out a bit with use. Also, try lubing the threads and o-ring thoroughly with some Nyogel 760G, or the like, that should help:thumbsup:


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## ZMZ67 (Oct 28, 2017)

weez82 said:


> I received the Rainbow PVD Titanium and I must admit that Im not happy with it . The beam and tint are good and the brightness levels are good and the build quality is good. The problem I'm having is the head is way to difficult to twist. I have the WW Mini 123 and that is easy to twist and Ive had the AA and AA2 mini's and those were all easy to twist but this one is almost unusable . Maybe its because its Titanium and not Aluminum? I dont know.



My Autumn PVD copper is difficult to twist as well and my guess is the titanium models are worse since Ti has such a poor reputation in twisties anyway. I find the Mini Mk II is best as a 1 or 2 mode light , I do wish it worked better like the old minis. On the positive side the Mini Mk II is very bright with the supplied high discharge battery. I went ahead and ordered a Rainbow Ti at the clearance price so I guess I will find out if I can break it in over time, the Autumn PVD is a little on the heavy side for EDC afiac but I do love the finish. Figured that the Mini Mk II was worth it at the clearance price for a collectible even if it doesn't see much carry time.


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## Woods Walker (Oct 28, 2017)

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> I have the Autum PVD Copper, rainbow Titanium & regular Titanium en route. That's in addition to the Cr2 Bolt & Mini-Bolt with a Titanium AO Atom with neutral led....between PayPal Credit & the Four Sevens sales I am in real trouble...
> Hey Woods Walker, as long as the threads and O rings are kept lubricated these lights are rock solid for dependability. I picked up the Mini-Turbo a few weeks back and man is it an impressive little light. Considering how your lights appear to get the majority of their time in "real life" on the trail, instead of Safe & secure inside your home, the charger should be highly practical-you just pop the magnetic caps onto your 16340 & connect the USB to your portable power bank without regard to the positive or negative poles of the battery(the charger automatically determines polarity). Have you tried out the Four Sevens head band? It allows the mini's to be used as head lamps for hands free usage?



I pack both a headlamp and a flashlight so already have a headlight in my kit but will check it out. I have an Olight UC and think the 4/7 is the same product made by the same company though beyond physical description can't be sure. But the Olight UC works great as a solar charger and fine for AA/AAA as it seems to pulse charge those at .25A which is good. In any case wanted a second one for another kit so happy to get it with the light. Also the 2XAA Mini is one of my favorite pack lights when going UL and running AAs. That's one sale as well. Just got this... Figured for a few extra dollars I can try an Atom and use the headband for the Mini. Who knows maybe I will like the Atom more. Wonder if it runs Lithium ion?
1 xAtom AL Headlamp
$15.00$15.00
[h=1][/h]


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## Woods Walker (Oct 28, 2017)

Just checked... 1 to 4.2 volts so lithium ion should work with the Atom though got it for the headband.


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Oct 29, 2017)

I have received both the Copper PVD finish and the rainbow Titanium. Both were on the rough side and lacking the usual buttery smoothness I am used to from Four Sevens. Titanium has always had issues with falling, but with liberal lubrication with Nyogel 760, I have yet to meet a light I couldn't use. I was a bit surprised by the Copper threads, but after cleaning with a wire brush, a very light sanding with 200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a generous reapplication of Nyogel 760 it was majorly improved. I love these little lights-mine have very pleasing tints, excellent beam and perhaps because I have been a heavy Four Sevens user all of my adult flashaholism, I have no difficulty with mode changes/selection, etc. I started to put all my mini's together for a group photo, but ran out of room and time... maybe tomorrow. I still have a few more on the way. Woods Walker, I use lithiums in a lot of my Four Sevens, the exception being no 10440's. I even have one of the coveted Four Seven's 18650 body tubes. I have to throw in a complement to TJ and the Four Sevens customer service crew-fast response and always very helpful. I call with some off the wall questions, like what would happen if I took part a of light b with the switch from the older version of light c .....
They also are willing to do whatever it takes to keep the customer happy-and I am. I love the headband because I can use my red Atom or Titanium neutral white Atom with just the magnet, or use one of the provided HD O rings to use any one of my mini's. Now with the Atoms that come with or without reflectors I can customize even further based on my needs...and this crazy sale makes it so affordable!


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## tom6 (Oct 31, 2017)

Can you pay with paypal?


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## eraursls1984 (Oct 31, 2017)

tom6 said:


> Can you pay with paypal?


I had an issue a few weeks ago, but they emailed me and sent an invoice. I've ordered twice since without issue. I did see someone else mention the issue last week. Not sure what causes it, or why I'm no longer having the issue.


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## tom6 (Nov 3, 2017)

eraursls1984 said:


> I had an issue a few weeks ago, but they emailed me and sent an invoice. I've ordered twice since without issue. I did see someone else mention the issue last week. Not sure what causes it, or why I'm no longer having the issue.


Thanks. Any coupon sale for mini turbo or mini mk ii black?


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## tom6 (Nov 4, 2017)

tom6 said:


> Thanks. Any coupon sale for mini turbo or mini mk ii black?


Nobody? Any code?


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## eraursls1984 (Nov 4, 2017)

tom6 said:


> Nobody? Any code?


No, and they disabled both CPF discount codes. About 2 days ago the 12% and 8% still worked, but not yesterday.


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## tom6 (Nov 4, 2017)

tom6 said:


> Nobody? Any code?


Τhanks .Appreciate any info.


eraursls1984 said:


> No, and they disabled both CPF discount codes. About 2 days ago the 12% and 8% still worked, but not yesterday.


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Nov 5, 2017)

tom6 said:


> Can you pay with paypal?



Have bought 11 lights from Four Sevens in the last 3 weeks, all with PayPal-no problems...


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## tom6 (Nov 7, 2017)

Any new code?


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## cdaMONSTERS (Nov 11, 2017)

I received my ti mkii last week and I was happy to find the modes were easy to change. Yesterday I decided to clean and lube the threads, and the modes when crazy. It just skipped so bad it was unusable. I wiped the threads with a paper towel and all is good now.

Just thought I would post my findings, as I know how obsessed with lubing threads we can be.


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## warpdrive (Nov 18, 2017)

So 4sevens still has the titanium version in stock, but the aluminum version is also on sale (a few bucks cheaper). Given they are both about the same price, which would you prefer? I already have the copper one with the neutral white. I figure the Al one would be easier to change modes without the grainiess that sometimes pervades Ti flashlights (although, after a while and some lubing, it may smoothen out). Which finish is more hardy (bead blasted, PVD Ti, or HA Al)? I don't mind cool white LEDs, and actually sort of like them

can't make up my mind and need a gentle push.


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## Beamhead (Nov 18, 2017)

Get the Rainbow , I got 2 and love them, just be prepared to lube em up and break em in.


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 18, 2017)

Those clearance lights are starting to disappear if you think you want one ! I went ahead and grabbed the rainbow myself even though I haven't been thrilled with the operation of the UI my autumn PVD. The threads are gritty on the rainbow but for a neutral 4Sevens at that price in Ti I decided it was worth the attempt to break it in for better operation. The Ti is lighter than the copper so it should make for a better EDC IMO.


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## warpdrive (Nov 18, 2017)

ok, pvd it is!!!
Twist my rubber arm


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## warpdrive (Nov 30, 2017)

ZMZ67 said:


> Those clearance lights are starting to disappear if you think you want one ! I went ahead and grabbed the rainbow myself even though I haven't been thrilled with the operation of the UI my autumn PVD. The threads are gritty on the rainbow but for a neutral 4Sevens at that price in Ti I decided it was worth the attempt to break it in for better operation. The Ti is lighter than the copper so it should make for a better EDC IMO.



just got my Ti PVD. So pretty especially with the finish on the clip too.

Holy gritty threads though. Definitely gonna need lots of lubing and break in. At least the Copper one is smooth but too tight. I suspect the Ti will always feel gritty? Don't have too many other Ti Lights. Not sure which one I will use first and keep the other as a spare.

Do these kinds of lights have idle/parasitic drain?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 1, 2017)

I never noticed a battery unexpectedly low/drained but also have no way to test that beyond user observation. It's in my EDC rotation so gets used.


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## Hondo (Dec 1, 2017)

It is a mechanical disconnection when you unscrew the head, so no parasitic drain is possible.

I have a Preon P1 Ti I have been EDC'ing for about 3+ years. It must be smoother than when new, I clean and lube it often hoping for better thread feel. But it remains typical of their Ti lights, and is a strain to use one-handed, but I mostly do, out of need to. I think that's what is still keeping me from pulling the trigger. That and the crap-pile of assorted Quark Pro and Tactical lights I grabbed when they auctioned them off near twenty bucks each. Quark Pro is one of my top 3 interfaces ever. (HDS and Zebra fill out the list)


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## warpdrive (Dec 2, 2017)

yes, I'll be EDC'ing the Ti rainbow and keeping the Cu as my shelf queen backup. The Stainless looks so pretty too.....any takers?


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Dec 14, 2017)

I missed out on the Brass Mini MK II for $48, anyone wish to part with one?
To stay on topic, I have both SS Mini's and they are awesome! Looks better than Ti, smooth as silk threads and a beautiful beam!


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Dec 16, 2017)

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> To stay on topic, I have both SS Mini's and they are awesome! Looks better than Ti, smooth as silk threads and a beautiful beam!



I can't recommend the Ti, it looks great to me with the matte bead blasted finish but the threads grab (microscopic galling?) and make mode changes unreliable. The $18 Turbo Mini MkII is smooth as silk however and makes a great stocking stuffer at the closeout price (which still seems to be available this morning).


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## weez82 (Dec 16, 2017)

Well I couldnt pass up the $18 Turbo. Hopefully it will get dropped off this week


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Dec 16, 2017)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I can't recommend the Ti, it looks great to me with the matte bead blasted finish but the threads grab (microscopic galling?) and make mode changes unreliable. The $18 Turbo Mini MkII is smooth as silk however and makes a great stocking stuffer at the closeout price (which still seems to be available this morning).



I have a product called "titi twister" that is a titanium lubricant made by a CPF member(sorry, blanking on his name). It is black, but eliminates a lot of Ti galling, and makes the Ti Mini MK II much more reliable re : mode changes.

I just had to order one more Mini-Turbo and 3 more 16340's too...


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## archimedes (Dec 16, 2017)

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?272746-SALE-TiTi-Twister-II-titanium-thread-lube

... fyrstormer


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Dec 16, 2017)

Just to confirm, is the non-Turbo Mini Mk II supposed to have an optic with no cover glass? I've got lots of lights with optics, E1B's, EB1's, LX2's etc. but they all have a glass lens in front of the optic.


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## moshow9 (Dec 16, 2017)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Just to confirm, is the non-Turbo Mini Mk II supposed to have an optic with no cover glass?


That is correct, the Mini MK II (non-Turbo) is optic only with no glass lens.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 16, 2017)

Yes. I have some other lights with the same optic. I rather like it for an EDC. But also lights up the woods.

















Moonlight mode MKII and Toxic zombie green Bic.






The optic. No PWM on lower modes but discovered it on high when someone on my YT channel mentioned it does have PWM on one mode. Too high frequency for me to see so just assumed all modes were CC. Moonlight/Low/Med all CC and clear. Here is the optic. No reflector but the Turbo has one.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 16, 2017)

Forgot to add they're waterproof.


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## ronniepudding (Dec 18, 2017)

Woods Walker said:


> Yes. I have some other lights with the same optic. I rather like it for an EDC. But also lights up the woods.
> ...
> The optic. No PWM on lower modes but discovered it on high when someone on my YT channel mentioned it does have PWM on one mode. Too high frequency for me to see so just assumed all modes were CC. Moonlight/Low/Med all CC and clear. Here is the optic. No reflector but the Turbo has one.



Thanks for the pics Woods Walker! Hey, have you tried the Mini Mk II (non-Turbo) in the 360 headlamp holder? I'm wondering how the optic/beam plays out for headlamp use... just looking at pics and videos that folks have posted, it seems like the beam angle might be on the narrow side for that application -- and I couldn't find beam angle specs for either Mini Mk II on Foursevens website. When you have time, I'd be curious to hear your impressions.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 18, 2017)

ronniepudding said:


> Thanks for the pics Woods Walker! Hey, have you tried the Mini Mk II (non-Turbo) in the 360 headlamp holder? I'm wondering how the optic/beam plays out for headlamp use... just looking at pics and videos that folks have posted, it seems like the beam angle might be on the narrow side for that application -- and I couldn't find beam angle specs for either Mini Mk II on Foursevens website. When you have time, I'd be curious to hear your impressions.



It has the same optic as the Olight UL 2XAA-and Compass Mini R 1X CR123. I spoke with the manufacturer when reviewing the mini compass as wanted their thoughts on the optic. My impression was the optic had ok spill and more throw than the floody 18650. This allowed me to get more done with a low beam in terms of seeming stuff farther away. When you have 2.59 Wh or 4.5 depending on chemistry sometimes a bit more concentrated (yet still floody) beam is good IMHO. I let them talk first and their reasoning was the same conclusions I found in the field testing. Often using something transcends charts and graphics. I could try it but will have to dig up the box as I think it needs O-rings and there is several sizes to pick from.


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## ronniepudding (Dec 19, 2017)

Thanks again, ... just watched your review of the Compass Mini headlamp. No need to dig out o-rings 

EDIT: it seems like the modes are not ideally spaced for close-up, arms-length use. There is a big 20x jump between moonlight and low, and more than a 10x jump between low and medium. If medium was ~100 lumens, and low was correspondingly lower (~10 lumens), it might be better suited for a headlamp. 250 lumens medium seems too bright in a relatively tight beam, and 20 lumens is kind of dim for walking.


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## Woods Walker (Dec 19, 2017)

20 lumens in actual use doesn’t appear 20 times brighter. This is one reason why many headlamps and flashlight will have a low moon light mode and then jump up much higher (on paper) to the next level. People often complain they can’t see the difference between medium or high in some lights as it takes such a big increase to notice in field use. There is the exception. Some users are low level connoisseurs. But that represents a very very small market IMHO. In real use the Mini low mode of 20 or so lumens doesn’t appear to much for near work. Well not to me anyways.


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## ronniepudding (Dec 19, 2017)

Good points re: Logarithmic perceived brightness, etc. To be clear, I wasn’t saying that 20 lumens is too much for up close work... rather that it might *not be enough* for walking uneven terrain at night. And 250 lumens as the next mode option is kind of a big jump. It would be nice to have a mode in the middle that would run for 4+ hours or so.

I also realize that beam profile can make a big difference in perceived brightness and suitability for a given task... so my comments are speculation, since I don’t own the light  

Nevertheless, unless someone tells me they are using the Mini Mk II as a headlamp with great success, I will probably steer toward the stainless steel Turbo model and look elsewhere for headlamp options.


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## Bruno28 (Dec 20, 2017)

I just realised that the Mini MKII has the same TIR optics as the Olight S1 and S1 mini.

I got the Titanium version, its quite nice, but the treads are not smooth at all. The MKII turbo in aluminium is super smooth.
I cleaned the treads, re-applied a low viscus grease with PTFE to the o-ring and a more viscus grease with PTFE to the threads. It got a bit better, but still gritty. 

Will it just get better with use and time?


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## Woods Walker (Dec 20, 2017)

The optic casts a haze of light beyond the hotpot. It's actually better than one might expect (per my eye) for near activities though its a comprise.


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## warpdrive (Dec 24, 2017)

Bruno28 said:


> I just realised that the Mini MKII has the same TIR optics as the Olight S1 and S1 mini.
> 
> I got the Titanium version, its quite nice, but the treads are not smooth at all. The MKII turbo in aluminium is super smooth.
> I cleaned the treads, re-applied a low viscus grease with PTFE to the o-ring and a more viscus grease with PTFE to the threads. It got a bit better, but still gritty.
> ...




Mine has gotten better with judicious breaking in (ever once in a while I'll twist it back and forth just for the heck of it), it’s still gritty but it’s easy enough to turn with generous superlubing. I doubt it’ll ever be smooth though. The UI is still not totally reliable, it does skip modes still so deliberate twisting is needed. I guess I’m satisfied with it enough but it’s a little bit disappointing overall even though it was on clearance ($42 combo+$10 international shipping)

Even though it’s the hardest to use out of my three, the rainbow PVD finish is so pretty that it’s taking first tour duty as a EDC (have the regular aluminum, and copper autumn which are the backup team).


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## ven (Dec 30, 2017)

Got one through with a nice £12 customs charge on top(£8 of that is handling) I am still waiting on a black turbo head to arrive which is CW.
Anyway its ti and NW flavour which i am happy with!. Quite nice and easy on the eye. Programming took a little getting use to, but its simple enough. I thought it blinked out 1 to 6, then just lock in at that(on/off) from instructions. Instead it just blinked out 3 flashes, then again 3 flashes etc etc. undo/tighten then you get the next mode etc etc till desired(or how i remember it anyway).

Moon,low,med all fine but i must have seen a flicker in my eye(something must have been noticed) to get the phone out and get up close to the LED. Its not something i do, or certainly not often anyway as i see it as a pointless exercise if my eyes can not detect PWM, why go looking for it(personal opinion). Anyway its there on high of all levels, strange as would have thought detectable on lower levels if at all.........But real hard to detect, so its not a problem for me. In fact, it wont get used on high much anyway(think 15s before steps down), medium level with memory will be its most used amount. Kind of enough amount of light for most close up tasks. The high is super bright, crazy little think this mkII(i like crazy)

Threads as expected, little gritty, but can operate single handed if required. Love the design on the clip, where it fits in to the tail(cut outs)............think its some nice detail there.




The beam is just a large spot of usefulness.............i likey! 
Random pics

















I think its worth about $30 , I would not be too happy if $60 tbh(then add $15 shipping and £12 customs.............well more than that, as thats based on $30, would be near a $90+ light in total!) but subjective and just my personal opinion.

I dont have much experience with 47 lights, not had that many(think this is my 2nd of soon to be 3). I like them, would like the stainless and cu versions if i ever decide to try and source some. I have seen the ss mkII on the bay, but held off so far. Not sure if to keep this as is, or go for a 219b or 219c triple and better driver.............for now will enjoy it as is i think


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 2, 2018)

I've been traveling in South Asia with a Mini Mk II Turbo for the past several days. I've got the high-amperage 47's rechargeable battery (with a Nitecore D2 charger), it works great and lasts a long time. :thumbsup:

Plumbing varies considerably once you leave the U.S. and the British style light and 'boiler' switches are often well hidden in my opinion. The tailstand capability on the Mini is very handy for quick bathroom visits and finding a bottle in the host's liquor cabinet. Whenever I get well enough to drink anything stronger than bottled water that is. 

Next stop I will be in a very nice downtown hotel, I'll be able to use the Mini to find all the light switches in the room. By the time I figure out the switches, it's time to leave, right?


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Jan 13, 2018)

My updated Mini Collection, including my Mini MK II updates including the Mini MK II TurboVN aka "Goliath"....
https://i.imgur.com/VY9m0Qj.png
https://i.imgur.com/MFIxkY3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dkUz4Xy.jpg


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## Nichia! (Jan 14, 2018)

Just amazing!


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## ven (Jan 14, 2018)

Awesome family eddie


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Jan 14, 2018)

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> My updated Mini Collection, including my Mini MK II updates including the Mini MK II TurboVN aka "Goliath"....



What good is a collection if it doesn't grow? 
- Raymond Reddington


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## firsttothescene (Feb 6, 2018)

Can the Olight 5c 16340 be used in place of the foursevens 5c 16340? If so, will it still provide the 1,000+ lumens like the foursevens battery?


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Feb 7, 2018)

firsttothescene said:


> Can the Olight 5c 16340 be used in place of the foursevens 5c 16340? If so, will it still provide the 1,000+ lumens like the foursevens battery?



Yes and yes. :thumbsup:

Amazon still has some of the Mini Mk II Turbo and non-Turbo lights at reasonable prices including David's beautifully packaged farewell versions in stainless steel. And they have the Olight ORB-163CO5 5C batteries as well.


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## firsttothescene (Feb 7, 2018)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Yes and yes. :thumbsup:
> 
> Amazon still has some of the Mini Mk II Turbo and non-Turbo lights at reasonable prices including David's beautifully packaged farewell versions in stainless steel. And they have the Olight ORB-163CO5 5C batteries as well.


Cool, thank you very much. I have the ss turbo arriving tomorrow.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Feb 7, 2018)

firsttothescene said:


> Cool, thank you very much. I have the ss turbo arriving tomorrow.



I got my SS Mini Turbo Mk II today, you will not be disappointed! :thumbsup: The fit, finish and packaging are superb.

Remember, a primary 4Sevens CR123A battery is shipped inside the light, there is a tab to remove on the battery to get it to work. Also, the keychain clip is in the box, the Mini Mk II's come with the pocket clip installed.


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## firsttothescene (Feb 7, 2018)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I got my SS Mini Turbo Mk II today, you will not be disappointed! :thumbsup: The fit, finish and packaging are superb.
> 
> Remember, a primary 4Sevens CR123A battery is shipped inside the light, there is a tab to remove on the battery to get it to work. Also, the keychain clip is in the box, the Mini Mk II's come with the pocket clip installed.


I can't wait! In some pics I saw it appears the light is sealed in a clear bag; is that correct?


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Feb 8, 2018)

firsttothescene said:


> I can't wait! In some pics I saw it appears the light is sealed in a clear bag; is that correct?



It is but it is also in a lovely cardboard box that looks very professional. Somehow the OOBE (out of box experience) really impressed me. It would make a nice gift except that I know from past experience if I give a non-flashaholic a CR123A light they will put the light in a drawer after the first battery runs down. Even if you give them extra batteries. :shakehead


Speaking of battery run down, I put one of those high current Olight IMR cells in the SS and left it on high to see how it did. The light got warm as expected but throttled back down and seemed to run for almost an hour. Does the lower thermal conductivity of the steel compared to the aluminum alloy heat the light faster and it thermally throttles back sooner giving a longer runtime on high? I need to get out my slide rule and see if the volumetric heat capacity is a factor. :huh:​


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## firsttothescene (Feb 8, 2018)

I know what you mean about giving a non flashaholic a cr123 light. I gave a buddy a nice thunder grey s mini last year and he never used it again, as far as I know, after the first battery died.


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## firsttothescene (Feb 8, 2018)

Got the stainless turbo today and all I can say is WOW; it is a true little gem!


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Feb 19, 2018)

Now that Prometheus Lights has been announced as the new owner of the 4Sevens/FourSevens brand, it looks like the Mini Mk II and MK II Turbo will soon go back into production:



> *Product Roadmap & Changes*
> 
> 
> 
> ...



More of the FourSevens Roadmap here: https://darksucks.com/pages/foursevens-roadmap




firsttothescene said:


> Got the stainless turbo today and all I can say is WOW; it is a true little gem!



​I obviously agree. The mirror SS finish, tight but smooth threads and the useful modes really impress me. :thumbsup:


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## recDNA (Mar 4, 2018)

firsttothescene said:


> Got the stainless turbo today and all I can say is WOW; it is a true little gem!


From where may I ask? I just discovered the MKII Mini and high discharge rcr123A batteries now that they're gone.


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## recDNA (Mar 4, 2018)

Ryp said:


> The Olight S Mini is 2.15"
> I don't know the dimensions of the Mark II but it looks similar to the size of the 1st gen. Maybe a tad shorter in the head, so it could be shorter than the S Mini.


But no clicky


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Mar 4, 2018)

recDNA said:


> From where may I ask? I just discovered the MKII Mini and high discharge rcr123A batteries now that they're gone.



There is a seller on Amazon with FOURSEVENS™ in the name that has the SS Mk II's turbo and non-turbo in stock at a very good price.

The Olight ORB-163C05 batteries appear to be functionally equivalent to the discontinued 4Sevens 5C protected high current IMR cells from my testing.

​


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## recDNA (Mar 4, 2018)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> There is a seller on Amazon with FOURSEVENS™ in the name that has the SS Mk II's turbo and non-turbo in stock at a very good price.
> 
> The Olight ORB-163C05 batteries appear to be functionally equivalent to the discontinued 4Sevens 5C protected high current IMR cells from my testing.
> 
> ​


Thanks! Too bad they don't have the combo pkg on Amazon


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## Woods Walker (Mar 4, 2018)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> There is a seller on Amazon with FOURSEVENS™ in the name that has the SS Mk II's turbo and non-turbo in stock at a very good price.
> 
> The Olight ORB-163C05 batteries appear to be functionally equivalent to the discontinued 4Sevens 5C protected high current IMR cells from my testing.
> 
> ​



That same ebay seller (known ex employee of 4/7) is now selling the 4/7 16340 5C battery.


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## recDNA (Mar 4, 2018)

Woods Walker said:


> That same ebay seller (known ex employee of 4/7) is now selling the 4/7 16340 5C battery.


Shipping is pretty expensive though. Wish I bought some when foursevens sold them with free shipping!


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## Woods Walker (Mar 4, 2018)

recDNA said:


> Shipping is pretty expensive though. Wish I bought some when foursevens sold them with free shipping!



Yea. I noticed that. I went on a mini MK2 rampage near the end so got enough and a bunch of those UC chargers as well which are being spread thought my preps and hiking stuff. Actually have one of the 4/7s batteries in an AT C1 headlamp as looking to run it down for some gear testing. I found my Copper mini MK2.... again! LOL!


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Mar 4, 2018)

recDNA said:


> Shipping is pretty expensive though. Wish I bought some when foursevens sold them with free shipping!



Check Amazon for the Olight ORB-163C05 version of the 5C battery. One of the sellers has two for $14.99, free shipping. These batteries have the same specs as the 4Sevens high discharge cells and David was with both companies in times past.


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## recDNA (Mar 4, 2018)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> Check Amazon for the Olight ORB-163C05 version of the 5C battery. One of the sellers has two for $14.99, free shipping. These batteries have the same specs as the 4Sevens high discharge cells and David was with both companies in times past.


Thanks. Duly noted. Surprisingly I can't find any authoritative reviews but I know your tests show them to be good batteries.


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## recDNA (Mar 5, 2018)

I couldn't resist. I bought the foursevens IMR rcr123A batteries in ebay and just snared the Stainless Steel Mini MarkII Turbo on Amazon. No shipping charge so only $40. It will actually be my only stainless steel flashlight. I usually don't like the lower heat conductivity and additional weight but the looks alone got me.


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## SNES (Mar 5, 2018)

It's a great little light. I actually prefer it with the standard foursevens CR123. Since the standard CR123 is a bit shorter than the RCR, it makes the threads nicer to use, and I never use the turbo setting anyway. On the aluminum version the knurling is grippy enough that it doesn't make much difference, but it really helps out the steel version. Either way though, killer light.


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## Woods Walker (Mar 6, 2018)

recDNA said:


> I couldn't resist. I bought the foursevens IMR rcr123A batteries in ebay and just snared the Stainless Steel Mini MarkII Turbo on Amazon. No shipping charge so only $40. It will actually be my only stainless steel flashlight. I usually don't like the lower heat conductivity and additional weight but the looks alone got me.



I have the regular SS. It's nice though bet the copper and Al are better at heat transfer.








Some mini pics.







Some more mini pics.


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## recDNA (Mar 6, 2018)

I may offer my steel version in trade for aluminum version if I get gritty threads.


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## SNES (Mar 6, 2018)

I seriously doubt they will be gritty. They are definitely smooth, I was referring to the amount of resistance. Hard to explain, but it sounds like you will have both batteries so give it a try.


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## Woods Walker (Mar 6, 2018)

recDNA said:


> I may offer my steel version in trade for aluminum version if I get gritty threads.



Naw it will be fine. Here is IMHO on the Mini MK2 threads.

1. Rainbow Ti. The worst though the light looks really nice, has a great tint and it does work.
2. Raw Copper. Smooth but a bit tight.
3. Al in both standard and Turbo. The best.
4. Stainless standard. Not bad.... Maybe second best. Nothing really to complain about.

I heard that Autumn Copper was really good. The only one in the standard Minis MK2 I don't have. Then again I can't even use the ones I have now. I kinda just look at um and toss either the copper or knight in my pocket. I gotta put them someplace useful. Maybe in a PSK or something. This shelf thing really doesn't work for me. Like having a hammer and a box of nails but no wood.


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## SNES (Mar 6, 2018)

Tight is probably a better description. i have the raw copper as well and the twist action is improved with the shorter cr123 too.


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## recDNA (Mar 6, 2018)

Is the longer battery crushed? I don't need imr thermal runaway in my future.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Mar 6, 2018)

recDNA said:


> Is the longer battery crushed? I don't need imr thermal runaway in my future.



Nope, there is still tail spring travel with the head fully tightened on both the turbo and non-turbo versions. I've got both protected and unprotected IMR's and there is no apparent deformation of the button on top with either version of the Mini Mk II.

The stainless steel turbo seems to tighten somewhat with time, I find myself carrying the aluminum version more. The titanium Mini Mk II looks great but continues to be gritty as previously observed.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Sep 19, 2018)

Vox Clamatis in Deserto said:


> I can't recommend the Ti, it looks great to me with the matte bead blasted finish but the threads grab (microscopic galling?) and make mode changes unreliable. The $18 Turbo Mini MkII is smooth as silk however and makes a great stocking stuffer at the closeout price (which still seems to be available this morning).



Jason at Prometheus Lights has produced this video on a lubricant and a tail spring mod to improve the twist action on the Ti Mini MK II:

https://youtu.be/tFbZQfoi49U


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## Whomprat (Apr 24, 2019)

I know this is resurrecting and old thread, but I've been having trouble with my protected batteries in my MKii tripping the protection circuit when there's only been about 100 mah used. This is happening on a fenix battery that isn't high discharge, as well as the 4sevens battery that is rated for 10c. Is it safe to go with a high discharge non-protected cell in this light?


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