# Led Lenser H7



## Izual73

I have for some time been looking for a good headlamp and a few days ago I pulled the trigger and ordered Led Lenser H7. (58€) It is sold many places here in Finland, but for some reason it is quite rare in other countries. I couldn`t even find this model from Led Lensers own website. 
I will be using it for night orienteering in coming fall, couple months from now. (The new Petzl Ultra and Silva headlamps are way more expensive than I`m willing to spend for a headlamp)
I received it just today, and here comes some photos and my first impressions.

Advertised specs:

* Prism reflector system
* High intensity 1.25 watt LED
* Revolutionary spot to flood focusing system
* Integrated dimmer switch – Hi-Low beam facility
* Lamp head can be swivelled within an angle of 90 degrees
* Fully adjustable straps
* Lumens: 140
* Beam visible up to 2000 metres
* Burn Time Up to 50 hours
* Weight 119gms
* Power Supply 3 x AAA alkaline batteries included

Here`s the box






It came with a neoprene holster that can be attached to a belt or serve as a good protection when It`s in backpack etc.






...and here`s the headlamp







Focusing lever can be seen under the head. It is a bit stiff to use, but works well, and after a short use feels very useful.






On the back of the head is battery pack with dimmer. The dimmer works as it should, it`s very easy to adjust brightness from zero to max.






The angle of the head can be adjusted from 0 to 90 degrees in three steps. (from straight ahead to straight down)






I also took some beams shot to get the idea of the brightness, which was quite impressive. (bathroom was the darkest place I could find. It never gets really dark outside when it`s middle of the summer in Finland  )

H7 Wide angle:






H7 Focused spot:
(It seems like there is no spill due to short shutter time of the camera, but in the real wold it puts out enough spill to for example walking on a trail when focused)







And for the comparison, Nitecore Extreme max with RCR (200 lumens advertised):






As you can see the H7 competes very well with Nitecore. The focused spot is very intense. I must say I was quite surprised how bright it actually is. It seems very likely that it actually puts out the advertised 140 lumens. ( I would have guessed it puts out more  )

Beam quality is not the best. Focused spot is not round on white wall, and on wide angle the center of the spot is a bit dimmer. But this does not decrease it`s real world usefulness at all!

I must say I`m very impressed by this headlamp. Insanely bright with a dimmer, focusable beam and adjustable angle, I think this thing is very hard to beat. (at this price range at least) 
Time will tell, when I get to use this more, if this really is as great headlamp as it seems to be.


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## Szemhazai

140 lumens ? - It's possible - it looks like there is Cree XR-E inside...


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## Stromberg

Nice found! I haven't seen that model anywhere. Where did you ordered and in what stores have you seen that on sale(in Finland)?

Have you already checked it's heatsinking? I have focusable Led Lenser David 19 with 14500 cell and althought it should be something like 1.25W, it's in fact driven closer to 3W..

That just might be my next headlamp since "Retki/RiverRock/etc. K2" was such a disappointment.


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## Izual73

I ordered it from http://www.varuste.net/tuotetiedot2.asp?_prodid=18179&_omin1=0&_omin2=0&_omin3=0
couple other Finnish sites:
http://www.reittipiste.fi/product_info.php?products_id=1021
http://www.progear.net/kauppa/product_details.php?p=627
It`s also available in Australia:
http://www.ledtorches.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=88
And in UK:
http://www.glowgadgets.co.uk/led-le...-focus-led-head-lamp-7497.ir?cName=led-lenser

It has a metal heat sink behind the emitter, but I haven`t opened it, if that`s what you mean?


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## Yucca Patrol

very impressive. I am going to have to wait for Fenix and Surefire to release their lamps before I decide on my next cutting edge headlamp.

But the future certainly looks bright for headlamps


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## Szemhazai

Maybe it looks bright... But on 3xAAA not too long :shrug: Fully regulated 3xAAA lamp @700mA will work only for 1h 20m / 1h 30 :thinking:


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## Jagge

Not bad. 140 lumen isn't quite enough for orienteering, but it is really difficult to find a commercial headlamp at range about 2-3 times Led Lencer's price, weight and power.


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## Izual73

Jagge said:


> Not bad. 140 lumen isn't quite enough for orienteering, but it is really difficult to find a commercial headlamp at range about 2-3 times Led Lencer's price, weight and power.



Yes, serious orienteers do have more powerful headlamps in competitions. I`m not that serious though, I only go to "training events". 
I will most likely bring a backup light with me though, probably a P7-based, to make sure I can find the control points. 

In a few weeks the nights should start getting a little darker, so I can really test it in the forest...


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## half-watt

main "crab" i have with this headlamp after checking out the links provided is that Lenser seems to be "hooked" badly on a substandard power source for their obviously, non-ultralight headlamps. 

it's clear that their headlamps (i own a Revolution which is a predecessor and similar in several respects to this apparently, IMO, very nice H7) are still lightweight, but for that power output 3xAAA is *NOT* gonna' cut it, in my book at least (YMMV). 

instead 4xAA would be the way to go for a decent hi-powered headlamp that would provide all night burn-time on a MEDium-ish (60-90 lumen maybe???) on a single set of 4xAA alk, NiMH, or Li AA primaries. if 4xAA is deemed to heavy for a powerful lightweight headlamp (we want a 6.0-6.5 oz headlamp here and it might be given the weight of 4xAA cells, IMO), then 3xAA would be the next choice in power source.

alkaline AA's are most commonly available in "trail towns". no one likes to pack too many cells to power their lights if they are out long enough to stop in a town an purchase some or hava a friend or family member, at the proper time, mail them to a stop along a Thru-Hike.

i will definitely purchase the H7 when i find it available on the WWW in the good ole USofA. in fact, i'll probably purchase two of them and leave one "stock", so to speak, and modify the other with a trivial/simple mod (using phono or 1/8" [3.5mm] phone plugs and jacks) for a purchased or homemade remote battery pack (switching in and out 4xAA or 4xC, 4xD or 2x2xCR123A batt-paks, all being ~6V power sources) as i've done with other HL's (e.g. PT Apex). the flexibility to pre-select, b/f a trek, the battery pack to meet my expected pack weight and burn-time requirements and anticipated availability of cells during resupply is a nice feature.


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## generic808

I have the older 1065 Revolution 42 lumen headlamp from LED Lenser which looks exactly the same, and I love it. It's very floody and gives off just enough light for me to use it 3-4 times a week on my night runs. 

I'm wondering how much it will cost when it gets to the states? I'd like to pick one up because they are very durable, reliable, and definitely at least water/sweat resistant.


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## Jagge

Izual73 said:


> I will most likely bring a backup light with me though, probably a P7-based, to make sure I can find the control points. .



I guess you mean Led Lenser model P7 flashlight, not a SSC P7 flashlight?!!


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## Izual73

Jagge said:


> I guess you mean Led Lenser model P7 flashlight, not a SSC P7 flashlight?!!


Actually I do mean SSC P7 flashlight.  That should provide enough light. I just need figure out a convenient way to carry it with me while running, on a belt or something. I would take it in hand only if unsure of my location or having difficulty finding a control point.


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## cat

half-watt said:


> i'll probably purchase two of them and leave one "stock", so to speak, and modify the other with a trivial/simple mod (using phono or 1/8" [3.5mm] phone plugs and jacks) for a purchased or homemade remote battery pack (switching in and out 4xAA or 4xC, 4xD or 2x2xCR123A batt-paks, all being ~6V power sources) as i've done with other HL's (e.g. PT Apex). the flexibility to pre-select, b/f a trek, the battery pack to meet my expected pack weight and burn-time requirements and anticipated availability of cells during resupply is a nice feature.



Good idea / useful information. I suppose you would try to mount the jack in the battery container.....but...if it's a pack C or D batteries, that would surely be on your belt, not your head, so you would need an extension lead. 
What about the 6V...into something like this that uses 3 x 1.2V AAA, is that ok?

Izual73, thank you for the review, good photos. I like the neoprene holster.



> The new Petzl Ultra and Silva headlamps are way more expensive than I`m willing to spend for a headlamp


Somebody posted about a recent orientering competition in Finland and mentioned some headlamps (I forget the name, I think they are Finland) so I went to the website to see them, and they were $$$, some $1000 !


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## dlk.com

generic808 said:


> I'm wondering how much it will cost when it gets to the states? I'd like to pick one up because they are very durable, reliable, and definitely at least water/sweat resistant.



MSRP will likely be around $60-$70


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## ifor powell

cat said:


> What about the 6V...into something like this that uses 3 x 1.2V AAA, is that ok?!


 
I am doubtfull about the 6v input as well. I have not seen anything to make me think that this light is not just direct drive. The dimming lever just sounds like its a pot and then 3 * AA is a good choice. 

Still the variable focus makes it an interesting light. I would realy like to see one in the flesh but I don't think It's worth the cash to buy one just to have a look.



cat said:


> Somebody posted about a recent orientering competition in Finland and mentioned some headlamps (I forget the name, I think they are Finland) so I went to the website to see them, and they were $$$, some $1000 !


 
Yes the high end headlamp light prices are just stupid, it's what makes the DIY option so atractive for me especialy as new multi-die leds are going to to mean that you can shrinck the size down even more geven some suitable optics.

Ifor


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## half-watt

a thousand apologies for being totally unclear on several points.

1) i meant that Lenser should have designed this HL for a 6v supply instead of 4.5v, or at the very least 3xAA instead of 3xAAA.

2) the 4x paks are for my PT Apex. i have some 3x paks for Myo3&5/MyoXP. i use them on others also. 

3) i'll use 3xAA or 3xC on this Lenser HL when i am finally able to purchase in the good ole USofA.


i hope this clears up all the confusion i caused. again, a thousand apologies. 

sincerely,
pj aka half-watt


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## santza

Izual73 said:


> (The new Petzl Ultra and Silva headlamps are way more expensive than I`m willing to spend for a headlamp)



The new petzl myoXP 2008 is available in Finland, Ive seen it 59,95€. That is a very nice 3xAA light with spot beam and integrated beam diffuser.

Two models let you choose the way you want to carry it. The other has a battery pack behind your head and the other has a wired battery pack you can fit in your pocket or belt. This works very well in cold situations and takes lots weight off on your head.

cpf thread:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/188409

EDIT: this was the thread i meant, ignore the above

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/188749


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## daimleramg

I wanna see a beamshot comparison with the H30 from Zebralight


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## Izual73

daimleramg said:


> I wanna see a beamshot comparison with the H30 from Zebralight



Unfortunately I don`t have H30. I think they are totally different lights though. H30 is ultralight and all flood without any reflector or focusing system, suitable for close up work. 
H7 on the other hand is higher power and focused, it has an outstanding throw for a headlamp. 

My guess is, that H30 would be something like my third beam shot (Nitecore Exteme) but without the hotspot.


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## Jagge

Izual73 said:


> Actually I do mean SSC P7 flashlight.  That should provide enough light. I just need figure out a convenient way to carry it with me while running, on a belt or something. I would take it in hand only if unsure of my location or having difficulty finding a control point.



Might work better the other way round, head mount your P7 flashlight and use your Led Lenser as a backup light. I have used DX P7 flashlight as a head lamp, it works pretty well - link.


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## Izual73

Just had my first ever night orienteering couple nights ago and this light worked very well. I think I completed the course as fast as I would have in the daytime and I had no problem what so ever of seeing where I was going.


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## SureAddicted

I bought the H7 a few days ago, and just have to say.. GOD DAMN. Mine came in a blister pack, not in a box as pictured in the op's post. 
This thing is very bright, the flood to spot is no gimmick, it works as advertised. No rings or dark spots to be seen. The spot isn't very round, but you don't notice that in the real world. The spot throws pretty far for a headlamp, impressive to say the least. The flood is amazing, bright and wide. It is very well made, I've had many headlamps in the past and nothing comes close in terms of quality. The dimmer switch is a smart idea putting it on the battery pack, and it works in a no bs way.


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## TEG

Will this work OK with Lithium AAA or Alkaline only?


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## Monocrom

How water-resistant is this headlamp?

Will it work in a light rain?


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## hopkins

think there probably is a power transistor in there for the dimmer circuit as most
potentiometers will burn out if used alone. Here's my favorite circuit to dim a
headlamp. Values can vary a lot on the components and still work fine.:duh2:


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## SureAddicted

TEG said:


> Will this work OK with Lithium AAA or Alkaline only?



I'm using Eneloop's and have no probs with it. I'm not sure about Lithium, but Nimh isn't a problem.

I've also used this HL in light rain, it worked with no probs. I haven't gone as far as dunking it in water.


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## Monocrom

SureAddicted said:


> I've also used this HL in light rain, it worked with no probs. I haven't gone as far as dunking it in water.


 
I appreciate the response. :thanks:


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## Painful Chafe

dlk.com said:


> MSRP will likely be around $60-$70


 

I just picked one up at Lowes for $49!!

Can't test it but from the looks I think the advertised lumes is accurate. It is a bit brighter than a 90 lumens tactile flashlight I have. I think it is worth every penny. Even my wife, who thinks I'm nuts, said "Wow, that is F'ing bright". Like the original poster said, the beam isn't perfect. It isn't as round as I would like, and the middle gets a little dim and blue when flooded out fully. But, it doesn't seam as bad as the pictures in the original post. I don't know if mine doesn't have these traits as bad as his, or if the pictures he had weren't quite accurate in color. All in all, it is very impressive.


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## barkingmad

Is it actually regulated or not?


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## Marko

barkingmad said:


> Is it actually regulated or not?



None of the Led Lensers are regulated. :thumbsdow


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## electrothump

Painful Chafe said:


> I just picked one up at Lowes for $49!!
> 
> Can't test it but from the looks I think the advertised lumes is accurate. It is a bit brighter than a 90 lumens tactile flashlight I have. I think it is worth every penny. Even my wife, who thinks I'm nuts, said "Wow, that is F'ing bright". Like the original poster said, the beam isn't perfect. It isn't as round as I would like, and the middle gets a little dim and blue when flooded out fully. But, it doesn't seam as bad as the pictures in the original post. I don't know if mine doesn't have these traits as bad as his, or if the pictures he had weren't quite accurate in color. All in all, it is very impressive.




Dang, I just saw one at the lowe's in Danville KY, and they wanted $59.+ at that one. Sure looks like a nice light. Everything works nice on it. Wish they would get with the program, and put some AAs in it, maybe even four batteries instead of three. Maybe they want to keep it lite? DUNNO!


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## Zoidberg

Can someone please comment on the size of the H7's focused beam from about 20inches?


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## Painful Chafe

Zoidberg said:


> Can someone please comment on the size of the H7's focused beam from about 20inches?




At 20" is it about 4 3/4" diameter. Fully flooded at 20" is about 16" diameter.


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## Predator752

Hello!
What's the difference in a construction the H7R and the H7 his electronics.
H7 from recommended batteries to strive? AAA
onto an appearance no difference shows.
Thenks


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## Kevenater

h7r seems to just be a rechargeable model. any more updates on these lights? I looked at one at lowes. the $59 price has been rolled back to $49 now. I love the look and the focusable lens and the variable power. makes alot more sense than low med high settings!! bout time! come on people. updates please!!


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## hopkins

found the video on youtube of the H7 , demonstates the focus
Very impressive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiriLEr2ybs


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## ruf9ii

ive got one of these H7's. had it for a while, its a good light. 

however, the little tab on the bottom that holds the light angle has broken off so it just dangles uselessly.

anybody got suggestions to fix it?


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## The Magpie

Mine did the same, so I punched the rolled up metal used as a hinge out and put a 2mm bolt in its place, tighted it up and now the angle is infinately adjustable, not just one of 3 angles.

So it's actually an improvement.


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## AndreasN

Has anyone tried the H7 (or H7R) in cold conditions? I would like to be able to use while XC-skiing so interested in sub 0C performance.


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## electrothump

ruf9ii said:


> ive got one of these H7's. had it for a while, its a good light.
> 
> however, the little tab on the bottom that holds the light angle has broken off so it just dangles uselessly.
> 
> anybody got suggestions to fix it?



I had one of mine to become weak at that some joint. You need to get a #2-56 by 7/8" screw and a couple nuts. They are pretty small. Hobby shops carry them by the piece. There are also places that sell them online. Either pry out the little "rivots", or just drill them. Put the screw through the hing post area, and snug it down till the piece holds firm. Do not over tighten. LedLenser really needs to address a couple weak areas of the light, and they would have a top notch light. Hope this helps. 

DN


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## boonsht

Looks like a clone is out at half the price. Any have this that can give a review? 

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29435


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## SureAddicted

boonsht said:


> Looks like a clone is out at half the price. Any have this that can give a review?
> 
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.29435




They look like they are from the LL reject bin. The emitter isnt centred, and on spot it emits the image of the emitter. You get what you pay for, which in this case isnt much.


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## Appleonius

Predator752 said:


> Hello!
> What's the difference in a construction the H7R and the H7 his electronics.
> H7 from recommended batteries to strive? AAA
> onto an appearance no difference shows.
> Thenks


Hi all. First post from me so I hope I don't sound too newbish.
I also wanted to know the difference b/w these two models. I called Coast and the tech person didn't really explain the difference. According to a youtube video (in German), it looks like the H7R just uses standard rechargeable AAAs but it looks like you can recharge them within the battery pack with the provided AC adapter. However, the non rechargeable H7 can take rechargeable batteries but you cannot recharge the batteries in the battery pack. This seems like a pro for me since it's probably _not _a smart charger they are using. Also, since the pack is strapped on the back of your head, I would imagine some heat if you strapped it on directly after being charged. 

Does anyone have any personal experience? I'm just speculating here.


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## major

would it be possible to make the h7 regulated or would it not be worth it


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## Hacken

I have one of those head lamps. i bought it straight from coastal inc. they screw up on my order so i got the rechargeable one for the cost of the non-rechargeable. for 140lumens i use this thing quite a lot on a daily basis..


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## kokesh

I drive my dogteam with it in -25C in Sweden, without problems. I have batteries hidden under hood on my Jacket, otherwise it would freeze


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## major

well ive just recieved my led lenser and to be fair i was delighted with the output BUT when i put it on spot i get half a circle one side and a sqaure the other and i can even see the lines that go down the led too surley theres something wrong here ? and no its not the cheap one ive just compared it to my friends he bought two back from england and his is a nice round white spot ,mines got shades of green and allsorts should i send it back to the shop or straight to coastal ?


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## hopkins

Sorry to here of the artifact problem Major.

Does it look like the LED is crooked (off center) looking
into the front? Or the reflector is crooked? ???

I just looked at the pictures and do not see how to
take the front apart.

If it was just a simple
unscrew job to disassemble and center the LED assembly
then reassemble, may save time and be interesting
to see whats inside.

If you do, could you post some pictures of the inside?


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## evgeniy

How H7 works from AA NiMH accumulators ?
Brightless is smaller, than from batteries ?


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## Uzi

I have received mine yesterday, immediately throw in 3 NiMh AAA Akkus (not AA!) and it works just fine. I did not bother trying the Alkaline batteries because I'll never use it that way.

My wife uses it for horse riding (tried yesterday evening) and she finds it very good, adjustable focus, little weight and lots of light is simply great!

It gives enough light when using alone as well (but usually I'm also supporing her with my home made 25W halogen torch/12Ah UBS battery on my bicycle)

BTW on the packaging I see 160 Lumen stated, but online 140 Lumen mentined, which one is correct?


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## major

i know these pics wont be that good with this cheap camera but it will give you some idea of what i mean ,in reality i can actually see the lines going down the led 









i have just noticed that the actual lens has got a gap around one side and not flush like the rest of the lens so i would presume that is at an angle and creating the problem ,does that sound correct ? and there is just 4 screws behind the head to get into it so it should be easy to dismantle


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## Linger

Yup Major, your emitter and optic aren't lined up. Common problem. It looks like the optic is stuck into the unit pretty good, so your option is to reseat the emitter.


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## major

thanks linger 
i sent it back to the shop and just waiting on a replacement then i can mod it to 6 aa batts


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## hoppy1010

I just received one of these and must say I like it.
It will fill my needs nicely I don't know much about
headlamps but this one is very bright the beam is not 
perfect but in real world use it does not bother me.
I got mine on eBay for a great price $44.95 shipped
and it is a new one that says 150 lumens on the blister
pack. I really think it would be hard to find a nicer light
at this price. This thread helped me decide on this headlamp
thanks CPF. :thumbsup:


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## Magnumpy

Just got one of these, and after a blackout yesterday got a real chance to test endurance. initially of course the light was excellent at the highest setting but full output didn't last long before it started to dim. I can definitely say the "[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]5.25 hour battery life" stated on their site is an exaggeration at the highest setting. 1 hour is more like it before it starts to dim. really wish they had something with say 4 AAs instead of the gimpy 3 AAAs :/
[/SIZE][/FONT]


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## hopkins

When you're not wearing a hat that can shield your face from the H7
side scatter this simple modification may be what you need.

Any type of black rubber (example cut from a old bicycle inner tube) can
be glued under the H7 head lamp to add just enough glare shield to keep the
light off your nose. 






would fix this


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## KRUPPSTAHL

funny enough, i was reading about headlamps last night.

this morning my buddy calls me ( he has a industrial business ) that he needs 
me desperately to fix a machine.

he asks me if i own a headlamp.....so, i needed to get material at Lowes anyways, heck, there is the H7 lenser....ok, i got it.

worked 6 hours in a dusty, dirty environment, on my knees, in a very dark area fixing hydraulics.

loved the lamp from the first minute. very bright ( way brighter then my Surefire L4 !! )

had it running for over 6 hrs.....changing brightness and lenser. GREAT !
i was always waiting for it to run hot.....NOT !
wish it would be a bit easier to slide the adjustment knob.

other then that.....awesome light for the money.


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## SureAddicted

hopkins said:


> When you're not wearing a hat that can shield your face from the H7
> side scatter this simple modification may be what you need.
> 
> Any type of black rubber (example cut from a old bicycle inner tube) can
> be glued under the H7 head lamp to add just enough glare shield to keep the
> light off your nose.




Side Scatter? This is a first I'm hearing of it. Mine doesn't exhibit this issue.


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## hopkins

Sure
Could be side scatter is not the term. Any suggestions welcome.

The case this suggested shield would help is when any part of a
headlamp users face is line of sight to the reflector.

As reflectors are not perfect 'some light' comes off at exteme angles 
far to the side of the beam and hits the face.


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## SureAddicted

I can see how that would be a royal PITA. You would benefit from some kind of shield, the rubber shield you describe is a good one.
Experiment with diff lengths, you might not need for it to be a long shield. 
Keep us posted.


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## Christopher4636

*Re: Led Lenser H7 mod*



half-watt said:


> i will definitely purchase the H7 when i find it available on the WWW in the good ole USofA. in fact, i'll probably purchase two of them and leave one "stock", so to speak, and modify the other with a trivial/simple mod (using phono or 1/8" [3.5mm] phone plugs and jacks) for a purchased or homemade remote battery pack (switching in and out 4xAA or 4xC, 4xD or 2x2xCR123A batt-paks, all being ~6V power sources) as i've done with other HL's (e.g. PT Apex). the flexibility to pre-select, b/f a trek, the battery pack to meet my expected pack weight and burn-time requirements and anticipated availability of cells during resupply is a nice feature.



Hey, sorry newbie question here, (also sorry for bumping dead thread) 
I'm interested in the H7 headlamp, think I'm probably gonna get one, however I'm also interested in a similar mod to mr half-watt. To run it from three D cell batteries from a belt clip. However I just wanted to check that I'm not gonna manage to burn out the LED as it's unregulated. I know it'd still get 4.5 volts but the current that you can draw from D cells is quite a bit more. I'm not a 'complete' noob as I've made simple analogue LED dimmer circuits before with MOSFETs etc, and i encounted that the LED itself should not draw more current that it's own rating, however this was from a desktop power supply I've not worked from batteries before (a closed circuit with three D cells will give you something like 1.5-1.8A i believe, where as max current rating of nearly all 3 watt leds is much lower) 
Simply question then, am i right in thinking the only thing i need to worry about is keeping the voltage the same, and the current should always be below the max continuous current rating of the LED and dimmer circuit? or is there the chance that i could overheat and burn out the dimmer circuit/led.

Many Thanks
Chris


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## obuda

push

Same question as Christopher4636.... :thinking:


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## hopkins

Christopher4636

One solution to protect the LED from over current is first to measure the
current (on maximum) out of* NEW* 3 aaa batteries. This would be the max current
you would want to draw no matter what batteries you use.

Then move the lever back to minimum power and remove the 3 aaa's.

Connect the 3 D cell batteries - cable/ wires to the correct terminals inside the 3 aaa holder. 
With the adjustment lever on LOW, and with your current meter connected.

Then slowly increase the brightness lever *until the current is equal *to what
the 3 aaa's supplied. 

Now that may or may not be as high the power lever goes. 

I would suggest placing several layers of tape on the lever slot so it cannot go any higher. Blocking the movement. You can always remove the tape if you switch back to 
3 aaa batteries. Or glue some plastic to block the lever from going higher.
Etc...

Good luck


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## madbroon

I started a new thread the other day to ask about running one of these off 2 or 3 14500 in parallel but as a noob I can't find my thread! Anyone know how I might find it?

I bought my H7 6 months ago and use it about 2 hours a day for dog walking and want to increase the runtime, also thinking about replacing the LED for a Cree XP-G with original heatsink, what to people think about this or where is the best place to ask?

Thanks


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## Appleonius

madbroon said:


> I started a new thread the other day to ask about running one of these off 2 or 3 14500 in parallel but as a noob I can't find my thread! Anyone know how I might find it?
> 
> I bought my H7 6 months ago and use it about 2 hours a day for dog walking and want to increase the runtime, also thinking about replacing the LED for a Cree XP-G with original heatsink, what to people think about this or where is the best place to ask?
> 
> Thanks


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/267694
I'm curious on increasing the runtime but I'm not very comfortable modding b/c I don't have the knowledge or the tools. If anyone can point me to a good DIY thread/video, i'd be very grateful.


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## spyros

160lm here: http://www.brightlites.co.uk/content/product_view.asp?cid=1&pid=164 . Can someone provide more info about how many hours does the 140lm setting exist?


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## madbroon

Spyros:

I bought an H7 about 6 months ago, can't remember if it's advertised as 140 or 160lm but they are probably pretty much the same.

As the H7 is a variable direct drive light its difficult to give a definite run time on full, it starts off really bright then gradually fades down to nothing (probably takes >20 hours to do this).

When I run off 3xAAA 1000mah rechargables I tend to change them after about 1.5 hours as it's dropped to <50% of it's original brightness, and I don't run it at full what (probably have the lever at between 80-90%).

On decent Energiser batteries it probably lasts 7-8hours before they get changed, again not using it at full brightness.

If you buy one then I'd either use rechargables if you can be bothered or replace it to run off 3xAA's, I'm getting a bit bored of having to change batteries all the time. There is a good copy of this torch at DX for a quarter of the price which some people are quite happy with, I'm going to buy one to mod rather than hack up my nice H7!

Hope this helps


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## Appleonius

madbroon said:


> Spyros:
> 
> If you buy one then I'd either use rechargables if you can be bothered or replace it to run off 3xAA's, I'm getting a bit bored of having to change batteries all the time. There is a good copy of this torch at DX for a quarter of the price which some people are quite happy with, I'm going to buy one to mod rather than hack up my nice H7!
> 
> Hope this helps



I'm going to do the same thing but I've new to headlamps & have never really modded anything like this. If you have time, could you please post a How-to thread? I'm sure a lot of ppl (including myself) would really appreciate it.


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## madbroon

If I do mod it I'll post a how-to guide, the one issue I have currently is the wife-to-be, if she finds out I've bought another torch to "fanny about with" I'll end up in the shed! 

Will see if I can do it on the sly... 

I was thinking about a poll along the lines of:


My Better half thinks torches are:

1. A sad obsession that is completely incomprehendable
2. Very useful
3. A good way to spend hard earned cash
4. An excellent use of of semiconductor technology and fascinating

What do people think?!!


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## spyros

Madbroon after how many hours you notice a decrease in brightness?


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## madbroon

Spyros:

To be honest it's difficult for me to say as I don't have it on full power, but on Energiser alkalines I'd probably say you'd notice after less than an hour.

What do you want to use it for if you dont mind me asking? I dog walk for less than an hour at a time so wouldn't notice it as its not like I'm using it for hours continuously.

Took the power pack apart today and it's a bit more complicated than I thought, will post some pics and see what people think. There is actually 3 wires running out the pack to the led at the front, guess its something to do with the switch?


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## spyros

For trail running.


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## Appleonius

spyros said:


> For trail running.


for actual trail _running_, my concern is that the lamp may slide down since there's no strap going over the crown of the head. i use it sitting down & i'm having trouble keeping it as tight as i'd like. the rear battery pack doesn't help. 
overall, i think it's a fantastic lamp though. only wish it ran on AAs & (for my needs) had the battery pack on the hip.


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## spyros

Many headlamps that are suggested for trail running have the battery pack at the back. I will start a new thread about headlamps for trail running. Thanks for replying


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## cyclopsed

SureAddicted said:


> I haven't gone as far as dunking it in water.


 
I had the opportunity to test it yesterday at my favorite electronics shop. 
Its a nice HL, but I would not recommend to dunk it. The mechanics for regulating the beam does not seem that water tight.
Having seen the pictures first, I thougt the regulating knob was to be turned, and thus probably being sealed with an o-ring. 
But nope, the knob has to be pushed to the right or left, leaving enough gap for water entering inside. I guess that´s also a reason why the knob is on the bottom side, minimizing the risk for water entering.


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## AnAppleSnail

Marko said:


> None of the Led Lensers are regulated. :thumbsdow



I got an "LED lenser headlamp" that was regulated, but it's counterfeit/namehedged.


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## madbroon

I took my H7 apart the other day and it wasn't quite as I expected it to be, perhaps a battery mod a bit trickier than expected.

Pics are below, any ideas appreciated...

http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/zz354/madbroon/H7/?action=view&current=pic1.jpg

There is a tiny little cross that turns the potentiometer to dim the light, the first time I put it back together it didn't work so had to take it back apart and realign, so take care if you dismantle it!


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## electrothump

madbroon said:


> Spyros:
> 
> To be honest it's difficult for me to say as I don't have it on full power, but on Energiser alkalines I'd probably say you'd notice after less than an hour.
> 
> What do you want to use it for if you dont mind me asking? I dog walk for less than an hour at a time so wouldn't notice it as its not like I'm using it for hours continuously.
> 
> Took the power pack apart today and it's a bit more complicated than I thought, will post some pics and see what people think. There is actually 3 wires running out the pack to the led at the front, guess its something to do with the switch?



I had to solder a broken wire, and also noticed that third wire. Anyone know what it is for?

DN


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## Appleonius

This is exactly the mod I wanted to do. There's a site that's selling all the upgrade stuff & it just so happens the instructions are posted on the site. Here's a link about the wires. It's a pdf.


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## quasar54

madbroon said:


> I took my H7 apart the other day and it wasn't quite as I expected it to be, perhaps a battery mod a bit trickier than expected.



I'm planning to get the DX version (Flood-to-Throw Zooming Focusable Cree Q3-WC 130-Lumen LED Headlamp (3*AAA)  ) and then mod it:


 to use 3x or 4x AA
Change led to R2 (Cree XR-E R2 (WG) Emitter on Premium Star  )
If the conversion to AA messes up the slider on the battery pack, then perhaps this driver would help (16-Mode 3W 3.7V 7135 Circuit Board for Cree and SSC Emitters (3.7V 1000mA Output)  )

The primary issue now is - where do I get the battery pack!!? Suggestions include getting a cheap 2xAA flashlight and using it as a battery container, but the issue is the length! And I would prefer having at least 3xAA because from my understanding, this would make the light brighter?


*******************
Edit:

I found this item which seems like it could fit the bill... was googling for the wrong term! It should be "battery HOLDER" and not "battery pack"!

Battery holder: AA x 4 with water resistant Cover / 4.5" 26AWG wire leads - RoHS Compliant 
http://www.batteryspace.com/BatteryholderAAx4withwaterresistantCover.aspx

*******************


Disclaimer - I've been reading a lot but I'm new to this so please forgive me for any erroneous information above


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## madbroon

quasar54:

I've seen a few suitable battery packs on eBay for 1 AA (would fit a Lithium 14500), 2AA or 3AA pretty cheap. There isn't any benefit in running it off 4AA as the optimum voltage for LED's is 3.7V, which is why the Lenser can run off 3AAA batteries.

In fact, having a 4th battery would just result in more energy needing to be dissipated which would take the form of heat generated by the circuit regulating the current and voltage so 3AA probably the best bet.

I've modded some torches with the XR-E and to be honest, I don't think they are any brighter than the Lenser as it has a great lens for focussing the beam. Also, if you want to change the LED then you want one that isn't on an aluminium star, just the bare emitter. I've taken my H7 apart and the LED is mounted to a aluminium heat sink that is probably only 7-8mm wide, then it's recessed around it, a bit like a moat, I;ll take a picture of it if I get the chance.

I'd go for the XP-G if you're looking to change the LED, much better efficiency and brightness per watt compared to the XR-E but not available on DX.... yet....

Check this out for efficiency of XR-E vs. XP-G:
http://www.dealextreme.com/forums/Forums.dx/Page.1~Forum.-100~threadid.447676

The XP-G will give you around 350lumens at 1000mA compared with 220 lumens on the XR-E, that's more than 50% more power!!


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## quasar54

madbroon said:


> quasar54:
> 
> I've seen a few suitable battery packs on eBay for 1 AA (would fit a Lithium 14500), 2AA or 3AA pretty cheap. There isn't any benefit in running it off 4AA as the optimum voltage for LED's is 3.7V, which is why the Lenser can run off 3AAA batteries.
> 
> In fact, having a 4th battery would just result in more energy needing to be dissipated which would take the form of heat generated by the circuit regulating the current and voltage so 3AA probably the best bet.
> 
> I've modded some torches with the XR-E and to be honest, I don't think they are any brighter than the Lenser as it has a great lens for focussing the beam. Also, if you want to change the LED then you want one that isn't on an aluminium star, just the bare emitter. I've taken my H7 apart and the LED is mounted to a aluminium heat sink that is probably only 7-8mm wide, then it's recessed around it, a bit like a moat, I;ll take a picture of it if I get the chance.
> 
> I'd go for the XP-G if you're looking to change the LED, much better efficiency and brightness per watt compared to the XR-E but not available on DX.... yet....
> 
> Check this out for efficiency of XR-E vs. XP-G:
> http://www.dealextreme.com/forums/Forums.dx/Page.1~Forum.-100~threadid.447676
> 
> The XP-G will give you around 350lumens at 1000mA compared with 220 lumens on the XR-E, that's more than 50% more power!!


Hello Madbroon, thanks for the advice about the LED and the battery pack. The information about 3AA vs 4AA is particularly useful!

Regarding the use of XP-G: I had initially thought an XP-G R5 would indeed be best, but some threads I found in here and deal-extreme mentioned that the angle of dispersion of the R5 (120%, IIRC) is much wider compared to the one of the R2. 

The lower angle of dispersion for R2 works better for flood-to-throw lenses as opposed to XP-G R5 because no reflector is used in this design...

Hmm I suppose I'll just have to try using it with 3xAA first and look into modding the LED later


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## mmeiser

*Longevity testing and other issues.*

Been reading through the threads on the LED Lenser H7. Just bought a version claiming 175 lumens last week at Lowes for $50 and have been running longevity tests on it. My initial tests with the batteries that came with it were quite promising, but tests since with standard energizer have been less conclusive.

The original batteries that came with it seemed to last some 6.5 hours before dimming below my 134 lumen light with fresh batteris. However a subsequent tests with what I thought were brand new standard energizer dimmed very rapidly. I.E. 2 hours and it had already dimmed to close to my 134 lumen light. I'm hoping it was just bad batteries. Am repeating the test with another set.

BTW, am running these test with the light at full brightness.

My other impressions are good. I love the focus and adjustability. I also like it's light weight and compactness. 

Am using it for bicycling. General night riding, high speed road bike, commuting and touring.

Would prefer if it used AA and an even number of batteries at that, but if the longevity is there I don't think I'll mind. I suppose I could always make a AA or other battery pack for it if I need to. I could even run it off a USB power adapter similar to the one I've made for my GPS.

Also am concerned about how waterproof it is. It doesn't look very. Haven't gotten to exploring this issue yet, but I do a lot of foul weather riding so eventually if it lives up to longevity test I'll get to waterproofing it.

Also, I'll need to splice on some male / female connectors and so I can put in an optional nice long patch cable to allow me to hide the battery pack in my warm cloathing for winter biking. Shouldn't be a problem though. But the key issue is longevity, everything else is secondary.

I've also looked at the Fennix HP10, but was never able to get a hold of one. Am currently using a River Rock 134lm light using a CREE that I've converted to work on a 4AA pack. It gets at least 5-6 hour before dimming and perhaps a total of 8-10 of usable biking light.

If anyone has any more longevity data please post it! Thanks!


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## madbroon

I just replaced my battery pack with a 3xAA box through a single mode 1A driver (been waiting for a multi mode driver from DX for over a month now!!) connected using 3.5mm jack plugs.

Not had much of a play with it yet but it seems really bright off 3 NiMh batteries (2100mAh), used 3 new Alkaline by accident and it was even brighter! Not for long though as bit worried it might damage the LED.

Going to put a jack on the old 3AAA unit so they can be interchanged, will try post some pics sometime too and info. on how long it lasts when it gets to winter!


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## COLD_fusion

I have been buying these out of taiwan, from the manufacturers wholesaler, except they dont have the "Led Lenser" brand on them, but quality is the same.:twothumbs


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## Slazmo

and the only thing I dont like about them is that the elastic can slip out from the actual headlamp's clip part... Happened to me twice now...


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## electrothump

You guys should check out the new HL27, uses three AAs instead of the AAAs. Also the HL28 uses four AAs on a belt battery pack. The new design is excellent. It uses a wheel instead of the lever. It takes a while to get used to the wheel, but you will end up liking it better. The top strap is removable. and the whole thing is just better built, plus the 27 boasts over 300 lumen. I'm on my third week of using it. I'll write more about it after I put it thru its paces.


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## Amafan

I've been wondering whether to buy this or the H7r.


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