# ssc p7 questions



## holdthat1 (May 1, 2010)

So I have an old Mag flash light laying around the house and want to put a ssc p7 in it. From what I read from numerous forums, is the C bin can output close to 900 lumens @ 2800 ma. I came across this driver http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-132/3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit-Board/Detail. Would this work well with the p7. My power source will be 3-4 Nimh D batteries.


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## AnAppleSnail (May 1, 2010)

Vin and Iout are specced ok, but I've got no idea if this one actually delivers. If it matches its specs, just heatsink it and you're set. I've got no idea how you'll control it; hopefully it won't be too ugly.

Anyone else? I haven't used this one myself.


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## holdthat1 (May 1, 2010)

AnAppleSnail said:


> Vin and Iout are specced ok, but I've got no idea if this one actually delivers. If it matches its specs, just heatsink it and you're set. I've got no idea how you'll control it; hopefully it won't be too ugly.
> 
> Anyone else? I haven't used this one myself.


 
Control it? I thought the driver regulated the current? So this wont do the trick huh? Sorry for the stupid questions. Im still wet behind the ears


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## Mettee (May 1, 2010)

Go with a D bin P7 if you can.

And yeah that set up will work great for you. The SB board controls current, it is a good board to work with. The wiring is pretty straight forward.

Go with 3 batteries. It will run a long time with 3 D nimh's.

Any P7 heatsink will work well, H22, britelumens, etc.

This same set up with an SST-50 will do better  just a hint. same everything just a different led and heatsink. Cost is close, but a bit more.


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## holdthat1 (May 2, 2010)

I might have a problem. The light is husky 2 d cell not three. Will 2 d batteries provide enough current to power the p7?


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## rokspydr (May 2, 2010)

current yes, voltage no


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## COAST (May 2, 2010)

The minimum Vin on the SB diver is rated at 2.8v. So 2D cells= 3v....


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## Fichtenelch (May 2, 2010)

Put 2 li-ions in it and a buck driver and you're good.
that shiningbeam driver is really good.
you could also just make yourself a spacer and put a 18650 in your mag.


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## Mettee (May 2, 2010)

Buck driver would be your option with 2 cells but then running it at any decent amount of amps goes out the window. The majority of buck drivers out dont work as well as we would hope. And you have to change your battery type to Lion. 

If you have a 2 cell husky light the first thing I would say is just get a 3D mag for 20 bucks it will be easier than redoing all of your planning on this build. Then you can fit 3 cells and you are back where you need to be. And I know that 20 bucks is a lot these days...


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## holdthat1 (May 2, 2010)

what about if used an AA to D adapter. it holds 2 aa's so I would be looking at 4.8 volts


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## Nitroz (May 2, 2010)

You can put 3 C nimh cells, and make a sleeve to keep them from rattling


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## vestureofblood (May 3, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> I might have a problem. The light is husky 2 d cell not three. Will 2 d batteries provide enough current to power the p7?


 
Using this light rather than a Maglite may be a bit more challenging, since there are several ready made parts to mod a maglite, and none to do this one.



rokspydr said:


> current yes, voltage no


 
What he said.



Fichtenelch said:


> Put 2 li-ions in it and a buck driver and you're good.
> that shiningbeam driver is really good.
> you could also just make yourself a spacer and put a 18650 in your mag.


 
I realize what is being implied here is a buck driver or the SB driver, but just to be clear do not use 2x li-ion with the SB driver. 

The SB driver is one of the best, and the cheapest P7 drivers available. 3.6-4.8 volts is best with this driver.



holdthat1 said:


> what about if used an AA to D adapter. it holds 2 aa's so I would be looking at 4.8 volts


 
Most of the 2 AA adapters I have seen are 2 cells in paralell not 2 cells in series, so its likely that you would only get double the run time and not double the voltage. What adapters specifically are you talking about?



Nitroz said:


> You can put 3 C nimh cells, and make a sleeve to keep them from rattling


 
This is a good solution, but it may not work in the Husky light the way it does in a Mag. Even in a Mag in order to use 3 C cells you have to recess the tail spring. 

A couple of other thoughts on modding this light if you decide to go ahead with it. 

I have not modded a 2 D husky, but I would imagine its about the same as a 2C. I have done one of these, and if I recall the existing led is on a fairly thick aluminum heat sink that is screwed into the head. I recommend getting p7 on a PCB and using thermal epoxy to glue it to the factory pill. There may be a ring on the top of the factory pill that you will have to grind down to get the PCB of the P7 to sit down flat, I don't remember though.

To get the voltage of the light up to where it needs to be there are several good options.

Your idea of the AA adapters is good if they are serial. If not Kaidomain sells some low grade 3AA to 1 D adapters if you want to go cheap. I dont recommend them though because of the high resistance (they dont allow a lot of current to pass through). Use 2 dummy AAs and 4 NIMH.

There are also some quality 6AA to 2 D adapters available on CPF that may fit your light.

Finally if you have any li-ion cells like an 18650 or a C li-ion, one of these and a spacer would also work fine.

Hope this helps.


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## holdthat1 (May 3, 2010)

thanks for the input everyone. found a 3d maglite at Lowes for 15.88. Now my dad might have a 4d mag lite. should I use the 3d or 4d?


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## Mettee (May 3, 2010)

3D maglite


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## vestureofblood (May 4, 2010)

3 D is plenty big for what you are doing. If you use the Shiningbeam driver, and get 3 D nimh cells you could run it on MAX for 4 hours. On low you could turn it on, and come back a couple of days later and your light would still be on:twothumbs.


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## holdthat1 (May 8, 2010)

So I have not purchased any parts yet (still researching). Now here's my question. If I use the driver from sb max current output is 2500 but If I drive the led directly I could provide more current. So will I notice any difference from 2500 mah to 3000mah? Also what about run time?


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## holdthat1 (May 8, 2010)

bump


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## ti-force (May 8, 2010)

Go with the SB board, replace LED- and LED+ wires with 24 gauge wire. The small gauge wire that comes pre-soldered on those boards is just one more source of added resistance. That should get you up to 2.8A. If you want more, order some AMC7135 boards from DX or Kaidomain, and pull one of the 7135 chips from that board and stack it on top of a 7135 chip on the SB board. That should get you up to roughly 3.1-3.2A @ the tail cap. You're using more energy, so runtime would decrease.


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## Mettee (May 8, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> So I have not purchased any parts yet (still researching). Now here's my question. If I use the driver from sb max current output is 2500 but If I drive the led directly I could provide more current. So will I notice any difference from 2500 mah to 3000mah? Also what about run time?



No you will not really see a difference with your eye usually. P7 reaches its max output pretty close to the 2.5 the SB board puts out. It is actually more than 2.5a so dont be discouraged by the "rating". 

I used this board unmodified with a slave 1400ma board and it did 4.2a. So that says that the SB board 2.8a.


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## holdthat1 (May 8, 2010)

Thanks for the quick replies ti-force and Mettee. The two of you answered my only concerns I had left about this mod. Now Its time to make my purchase.

My purchase list

1. Mag 3d lite from lowes 16.88
2. shining beam driver 6.95
3. Deluxe Mag D heatsink / P7 DSWOJ combo $43.00 from brite lumens
4. NiCd D Size 5000 mAh Rechargeable battery Button from 4.54*3 http://www.all-battery.com/ 
total about 80.55  This is an expensive mod.


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## ti-force (May 8, 2010)

:thumbsup: You will certainly enjoy it.


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## vestureofblood (May 9, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> Thanks for the quick replies ti-force and Mettee. The two of you answered my only concerns I had left about this mod. Now Its time to make my purchase.
> 
> My purchase list
> 
> ...


 

I know how quickly the price on these things can climb, but you have one huge advantage over may new members. You took the time to do the research, so you will reap the benefit of getting it right the first time. The second big time, and money saver for you is you are not trying to make some crappy 12$ light from HK do what you want.

Way to go on doing it right the frist time. I think when its all said and done you will be tickled with this light.

I realize at this point you are probly not wanting to spend any more money, but some time in the future maybe you might want to look into getting an Ultraclear lens from Flashlightlens.com. They are more scratch resistant than the stock mag reflector, and to me there is a noticeable difference in light output between this and an ordinary glass lens.


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## Mettee (May 9, 2010)

that is actually a pretty good price considering you will have a higher echelon build for one of your first. And with these parts you are for sure doing it right!

And I agree on the UCL lens they add just the right finishing touch...looks like there is not even a lens there 

http://flashlightlens.com/


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## ti-force (May 9, 2010)

I prefer the UCL glass too, but certain members on here have scratched the UCL glass, and they said it scratched very easily. Personally, I haven't had any problems with the UCL glass, but I only take mine out when I plan to use them and they sit in my house the rest of the time. If this light will see a lot of use like riding in your truck and the like, you might want to consider the Borofloat glass from Flashlightlens. It's been said that it's a little tougher and more scratch resistant than the UCL. It does have 4-5% less light transmittance than the UCL glass, but that little bit wouldn't be noticeable with the naked eye.


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## vestureofblood (May 9, 2010)

I have to agree that if this light will see heavy use that the Borofloat may be the way to go. I haven't had any problems with scratches on my UCL, but that coating seems to be easily foulable in multiple reflector lights, especially if the reflectors are glued down. I have had more than one get little rings on the coating that wouldn't come off. For a single emitter light its not an issue.


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## Mettee (May 9, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> I have to agree that if this light will see heavy use that the Borofloat may be the way to go. I haven't had any problems with scratches on my UCL, but that coating seems to be easily foulable in multiple reflector lights, especially if the reflectors are glued down. I have had more than one get little rings on the coating that wouldn't come off. For a single emitter light its not an issue.




Use "bon ami" on those marks VOB it works so well....does not scratch guaranteed.


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## holdthat1 (May 11, 2010)

Thanks for all your feed back everyone. Havent purchased any items as of yet (waiting for pay day). From what I have been reading, the sst-90 isnt too much more than the ssc p7 but has a higher output. Could I put this led in a 3d mag? Should this led be driven directly? I saw a mod by stefan where he compared the stock lens and the ucl lens. Even in the pics I could tell there's a difference in brightness and the beam was wider. Stock lens had a "dount hole" so I was alreadying considering this purchase. What size lens would I need to purchase. Again thanks for all the feed back and help everyone


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## ti-force (May 11, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> Thanks for all your feed back everyone. Havent purchased any items as of yet (waiting for pay day). From what I have been reading, the sst-90 isnt too much more than the ssc p7 but has a higher output. Could I put this led in a 3d mag?



Yeah, sure. Although, it's not quite as simple as an SSC P7 mod if you're trying to drive it at 9A as opposed to 4 or 5 amps, but if you're willing to read some more, you can learn everything you need to know. Here's a search for you with lots of info on SST-90 mods: Click here. You will see a lot of different builds, and you should be able to find one that best fits your needs/wants:thumbsup:




holdthat1 said:


> I saw a mod by stefan where he compared the stock lens and the ucl lens. Even in the pics I could tell there's a difference in brightness and the beam was wider. Stock lens had a "dount hole" so I was alreadying considering this purchase. What size lens would I need to purchase. Again thanks for all the feed back and help everyone



I don't think you will actually see a difference in brightness with the naked eye, but it's nice to know you have that additional 10%(roughly) increase in lumens. I don't think you will see a difference in the beam angle from a UCL lens though, unless you opt for the light diffusion film option. The doughnut hole you're describing is just nature of the beast when using a smooth reflector, combined with a multi-die emitter like the SSC P7 and MC-E. The UCL lens won't change that, but a textured reflector can smooth that out for you. You shouldn't have the doughnut with an SST-90 or SST-50.


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## Mettee (May 11, 2010)

I would stick with the P7 until more driver options come out for the SST-90. Just to keep it simple for now. If anything go with the SST-50 if you are hungry for more lumens and you are going to modify your set up....and drive it at 4 or 5 amps. You can do that with amc(SB) boards but it is more involved as far as soldering skills.

Ti is right, the UCL wont give you something you can see in output with the eye...but it is the right way to go if you want the most form your build and the look cant be beat. Its just a nice touch.

And I hear you and second having to wait till payday...time and money


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## vestureofblood (May 12, 2010)

I agree with what I think is being said above. For a first mod the P7 is going to be a less difficult and less expensive mod. SST-90 leds alone can cost double what the P7 emitters do. 

The UCL lens size you need is the 52.1mm x 1.90mm

If you have the extra money I have found its not a bad idea to order more than one of most parts, this in particular is nice to have a couple of extra around. That way when you decide to mod another light you dont have to order more, it saves shipping cost too.


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## l_____l (May 12, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> 3 D is plenty big for what you are doing. If you use the Shiningbeam driver, and get 3 D nimh cells you could run it on MAX for 4 hours. On low you could turn it on, and come back a couple of days later and your light would still be on:twothumbs.



That is still the mod I'm preferring... 3D nimh! However I'm wondering if the SB driver would work well with the SST-90 (not 50)? Also, would be nice if the SB driver could accept 8.4-9V, that way you could use 2D 36650 li-ion that are rated between 4500-5000mAh!

Take care,
-Pace


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## vestureofblood (May 12, 2010)

l_____l said:


> That is still the mod I'm preferring... 3D nimh! However I'm wondering if the SB driver would work well with the SST-90 (not 50)? Also, would be nice if the SB driver could accept 8.4-9V, that way you could use 2D 36650 li-ion that are rated between 4500-5000mAh!
> 
> Take care,
> -Pace


 

I dont think the SB driver by its self is a good choice for the SST-90. For as much extra as the SST costs running @ only 2.5A you would not gain that much over the P7. 

I do have an SST-90 light that uses the SB driver plus a stack of 1400ma slaves that is a good combo, but this would not be a good mod for a first, I think it would probly be frustrating for a newer person.


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## Mettee (May 13, 2010)

you would be far better off with an SST-50 or SSR-50 driven hard than you would with the can of worms you create by going with the SST-90.

I am telling you that if you use that SB board and a 1400ma slave board you will love the output, and the beam will be perfect. Throw will be ridiculous. 

I am finishing up a single SST-50 build and I will post it in the forum if you want to see. It will not be the same as your build but the end result should be close to the same. That may give you some hard data to go by.

drew


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## holdthat1 (May 22, 2010)

So I am just starting to make my purchases and noticed the driver @ shining beam is no longer available!!! Where else could I purchase a driver?


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## vestureofblood (May 22, 2010)

Ya that driver goes out of stock often. Member Download sells the same driver. You will have to configure it to be 3 mode in stead of 5 mode but its easy to do.

Another option that is a bit more challenging, but would work is, you can get one of the 1.4 amp 4 mode drivers and attach a slave 7135 board to it.


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## holdthat1 (May 22, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> Ya that driver goes out of stock often. Member Download sells the same driver. You will have to configure it to be 3 mode in stead of 5 mode but its easy to do.
> 
> Another option that is a bit more challenging, but would work is, you can get one of the 1.4 amp 4 mode drivers and attach a slave 7135 board to it.


 
Darn! Guess I shouldnt of waited so long. I know dx sells the drivers but, I dont want to buy ten of them. Wish they were sold in singles.


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## holdthat1 (May 24, 2010)

Ok, what about these drivers from dx sku 3256. Each driver has an output of 800 ma so if I wired 3 in parallel I could get an output of 2.4? 


Richard


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## holdthat1 (May 24, 2010)

bump bump


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## vestureofblood (May 24, 2010)

I suppose that could work, I read in the reviews that people have used them in parallel. It would only be single mode though.

Are you just thinking of that as an option because its cheap, or because you want the higher input capability?

What did you decide on for your batteries?


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## holdthat1 (May 24, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> I suppose that could work, I read in the reviews that people have used them in parallel. It would only be single mode though.
> 
> Are you just thinking of that as an option because its cheap, or because you want the higher input capability?
> 
> What did you decide on for your batteries?



Just bc they are cheap. I plan on using 3 nimh d cell batteries. Do you know of a better driver I could use?


Richard


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## vestureofblood (May 25, 2010)

How many modes do you want? 1,2,3, or 5?


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## holdthat1 (May 25, 2010)

two or three


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## vestureofblood (May 25, 2010)

If you want I will sell you one of the remaining SB drivers I have. If you need more than one driver here is another option.
http://e-lectronics.net/5mode-driver-board-with-memory-1x18650-p-460.html


What brand of D cells are you planning to use?


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## holdthat1 (May 25, 2010)

For now, I only need one driver but for future mods I will need some so thanks for the link. How much would you want for the sb driver? I will be using Tenergy D cells 10000 mah. Are these batteries an over kill?


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## vestureofblood (May 26, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> For now, I only need one driver but for future mods I will need some so thanks for the link. How much would you want for the sb driver? I will be using Tenergy D cells 10000 mah. Are these batteries an over kill?


 
8$ shipped for the driver. 

I dont have any Tenergy NIMH cells, but when it comes to high powered flashlights over kill is not easy to do IMO. It has been my experience that its always better to buy quality when you can so you dont have to re buy later. I use Accupower precharged NIMH cells because I like the LSD and I have found that precharged cells hold up under a load well. Only draw back is they come in 2 packs so you cant buy 3. 

PP is vesture_of_blood(@)hotmail.com if you decide you want the driver.


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## holdthat1 (May 26, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> 8$ shipped for the driver.
> 
> I dont have any Tenergy NIMH cells, but when it comes to high powered flashlights over kill is not easy to do IMO. It has been my experience that its always better to buy quality when you can so you dont have to re buy later. I use Accupower precharged NIMH cells because I like the LSD and I have found that precharged cells hold up under a load well. Only draw back is they come in 2 packs so you cant buy 3.
> 
> PP is vesture_of_blood(@)hotmail.com if you decide you want the driver.


 
I'll take it  check pm


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## holdthat1 (Jun 1, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> 8$ shipped for the driver.
> 
> I dont have any Tenergy NIMH cells, but when it comes to high powered flashlights over kill is not easy to do IMO. It has been my experience that its always better to buy quality when you can so you dont have to re buy later. I use Accupower precharged NIMH cells because I like the LSD and I have found that precharged cells hold up under a load well. Only draw back is they come in 2 packs so you cant buy 3.
> 
> PP is vesture_of_blood(@)hotmail.com if you decide you want the driver.


 


**UPDATE**

So, I finally order all of the parts except teflon wire. I should receive the parts by Friday or Monday. Now need to find a merchant for teflon wire


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## vestureofblood (Jun 2, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> **UPDATE**
> 
> So, I finally order all of the parts except teflon wire. I should receive the parts by Friday or Monday. Now need to find a merchant for teflon wire


 

Where did you order the heat sink from that you are planning to have it by Friday?


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## Stereodude (Jun 2, 2010)

What reflector do you plan to use?


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## holdthat1 (Jun 2, 2010)

Stereodude said:


> What reflector do you plan to use?


 
hmmm.... Thats a good question. Havent put to much thought into it. Seems most mag mods use the stock reflector so I hadnt thought about using a different one. Can you recommend a good reflector?


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## Stereodude (Jun 2, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> hmmm.... That's a good question. Haven't put to much thought into it. Seems most mag mods use the stock reflector so I hadn't thought about using a different one. Can you recommend a good reflector?


I'm not so sure myself. I plan to build a P7 Mag (with the 2.8A DW buck driver) myself which is why I asked. It seems you get a donut hole with the standard mag smooth reflector. See the beamshots in this thread. You'll note that an orange peel finish Mag reflector seems to be fine.


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## ti-force (Jun 2, 2010)

Yeah the P7 and MC-E emitters are bad about having a doughnut hole. You can eliminate the doughnut with an OP reflector, but you will sacrifice some throw so it's a trade off, and it really depends on what you want to use the light for. Click here for some more beamshots (Mag OP vs Stock Reflector 250 meters).

Also, you guys might want to consider doing your own stipple or sputtering job on the stock reflector, that way you can control how much texture you want, and you can even experiment with a couple of different ones. Click here for an example.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 7, 2010)

**UPDATE**

My led and heat sink has finally arrived. I have almost everything I need except Teflon wire. I do have some solid 22 awg copper wire. Do I really need to use Teflon wire or will this solid copper wire work.


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## Stereodude (Jun 7, 2010)

Is there insulation on that copper wire?


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## holdthat1 (Jun 7, 2010)

This is the wire I have. http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...75&filterName=Cable+type&filterValue=22+gauge

The only thing that's different is, mine a solid not stranded.


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## vestureofblood (Jun 8, 2010)

You dont have to use teflon, I have used Radio Shack wire lots of times. It would be better to use stranded, because the stiff solid wire will increase the chance of tearing off one of the electrical soldering pads of the driver. But other than that if you are very careful that wire would be fine.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 8, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> You dont have to use teflon, I have used Radio Shack wire lots of times. It would be better to use stranded, because the stiff solid wire will increase the chance of tearing off one of the electrical soldering pads of the driver. But other than that if you are very careful that wire would be fine.




Sweet. Thanks for all your help everyone (especially vestureofblood). I'm going to start working on the p7 tonight!!:twothumbs


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## vestureofblood (Jun 8, 2010)

Your very welcome. Have a blast!:thumbsup:


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## holdthat1 (Jun 12, 2010)

Could I use a Rocker switch instead of the mag switch.


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## vestureofblood (Jun 12, 2010)

Yes. You can gut the mag switch and put one inside the assembly. You will need to figure out a way to make your neg contact to the body, and also how to hold the assembly in place since the set screw would likely not longer be of use.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/225549&highlight=rocker+switch

The pictures have been added back in to the thread in post 16.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 12, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> Yes. You can gut the mag switch and put one inside the assembly. You will need to figure out a way to make your neg contact to the body, and also how to hold the assembly in place since the set screw would likely not longer be of use.
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/225549&highlight=rocker+switch
> 
> The pictures have been added back in to the thread in post 16.


 

Sweet, Thanks for the link. I actually have changed my mod a bit. I cut down the mag so I can use as a bike light. The switch will be installed at the tail cap. I am going to make a external battery pack since the mag has been trimmed a bit. Now I have another question. What do I do with the driver? Do i epoxy it to the led heatsink?


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## vestureofblood (Jun 12, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> Sweet, Thanks for the link. I actually have changed my mod a bit. I cut down the mag so I can use as a bike light. The switch will be installed at the tail cap. I am going to make a external battery pack since the mag has been trimmed a bit. Now I have another question. What do I do with the driver? Do i epoxy it to the led heatsink?


 

Wow, thats very ambitious. Maybe when you get it done you could throw us a picture.

Epoxied to the heatsink would be fine.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 12, 2010)

I also have a small heat sink that could be epoxied to the driver. Would that be better than sticking it on the led heatsink? Expect pics soon followed by some beam shots.



Cheers

Richard


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## vestureofblood (Jun 13, 2010)

When I heat sink a driver with components on both sides, I usually take a small aluminum disc or square and epoxy one to each side of the driver after the wires are attached and then put some electrical tape around it.

You dont necessarily have to sink a 7135 driver if your pack voltage is close to 3.7V. All it does realy is help to stabilize the current, ie when the light first comes on you get 2.8A to the led. After a few minutes run time with an unsinked driver the current will fall some to maybe 2.5 ish, more if you are powering it with 4 cells (4.8v) rather than 3. 

Any thing would probably be fine, I just thought that attaching it to the heatsink would also keep it from bouncing around so much since its a bike light now.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 13, 2010)

:mecry::mecry::mecry::mecry:


Think I seriously messed up. Like vesture said, I removed the solder pad from the board. What do i do?? Is the board still good or do I need to get a new one?


cheers


Richard


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## holdthat1 (Jun 13, 2010)

bump bump


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## holdthat1 (Jun 14, 2010)

bump bump


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## vestureofblood (Jun 14, 2010)

The board can still be used. Right next to the solder pad for the LED + is the resistor that provides reverse polarity protection (it has the little arrow on it). Solder to the end closest to where the + led pad was. 

When I use these boards I solder the LED + wire to both the + pad and the end of that resistor for exactly that reason.

This will work unless the end of the resistor is already torn off. If that is the case there are still other options. If the back of the resistor is already damaged then you can remove it and solder your wire to the pads where the resistor was, but if you do that you will no longer have reverse polarity protection.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 17, 2010)

*BBQ P7 and Driver*





















The light worked for about 30 seconds. I noticed the head of the mag was a bit warm so I turned it off. Try to turn it back on after a minute and noticed it was dead. Opened the light up and this is what I saw. Im sure the driver is dead. The diode for reverse polarity protection is gone, the leads on the led are sorta melted. Before I powered it up I made sure my wiring was correct. Kinda disappointing after all of my research and I still screw up this mod. Maybe modding flashlights isn't for me.

Richard

:mecry::mecry::mecry:


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## vestureofblood (Jun 17, 2010)

I know things like this can be discouraging. I too spend much time in preparation and care to be certain to do everything exactly right the first time. However there have still been many times when disaster has struck. Believe me when I say we have all been there.

I wouldn't give up just yet though, some times the darkest hour is just before the dawn.

This is just my opinion, but to me it looks like you just need a bit of practice with your soldering iron.

Are you using flux? Did you pre tin the wires, led legs etc, and then reapply flux?

I dont know where your light budget is sitting, but if you give up now you have about 100+ dollars worth of nothing. Or for a few dollars more you could take what you have learned and move forward.

The decision rests with you, if its time to cut your losses and move on I may be interested in purchasing your heat sink. If you want to move forward I have some P7s, drivers, flux, and wire if you need any materials.


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## irv_usc (Jun 17, 2010)

maybe a stupid question since i haven't been a part of these discussions, but how did you attach the LED to the heatsink?

anyway i'm pretty sure a lot of people have fried things. it's all part of the learning process. my first mod was also a P7, but i kept everything super simple with direct drive, just to get the hang of things.


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## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

In the first picture, that appears to be insulation melted off of the wire. Did that happen during the 30 sec test run? I can't remember, what batteries are you using? If you're using a Li-ion battery, you can re-solder some wire to led - and led + on the emitter to make certain you have a good connection and then touch the led - to the negative side of the battery and the led + wire to the positive side of the battery very briefly. If the emitter lights up it's probably fine, if it doesn't, you need a new emitter.


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## irv_usc (Jun 17, 2010)

ti-force said:


> In the first picture, that appears to be insulation melted off of the wire. Did that happen during the 30 sec test run? I can't remember, what batteries are you using? If you're using a Li-ion battery, you can re-solder some wire to led - and led + on the emitter to make certain you have a good connection and then touch the led - to the negative side of the battery and the led + wire to the positive side of the battery very briefly. If the emitter lights up it's probably fine, if it doesn't, you need a new emitter.


 
good suggestion. when i tested my build i just used some AA alks in series for a quick tap and go test.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 17, 2010)

@ vesture

The leads on the led actually melted. I know in the pics the solder job looks bad but it didnt look like that until after I used my light. THink I will try again. still a bit confused as what went wrong. What would have caused that much heat to make the wires melt? Ill test the led with acouple of batteries when I get home. From the looks of it I think its done. Do you have a spare p7 emitter? and I know the driver is done too so I'll need that too. 

@ti-force

I used my light for about 30 secs and turned it off once I noticed the mag head was hot. I used 3 Tenergy D cell batteries @ 10,000 mah. I'll test the led when I get home. Ill post an update at the time.

@irv_usc

I used artic alumina to mount the emitter to the heatsink.

I think the wires I used might of have played a part in this.I used probably use teflon wire next time.


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## irv_usc (Jun 17, 2010)

> I think the wires I used might of have played a part in this.I used probably use teflon wire next time.


 
it could be. i don't remember what the radioshack 22ga wire is rated to in terms of its current carrying capability.

i actually used some cheap RS wire too, but i think i ended up with 18ga or whatever the largest i had was that still fit through the heatsink holes.

good luck. take more pics on your next try so we can see all the steps you're taking!


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## irv_usc (Jun 17, 2010)

something that just came to mind. is it possible the wiring somehow shorted in the mag tube? did you cover the contacts and solder points at all?


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## holdthat1 (Jun 17, 2010)

irv_usc said:


> something that just came to mind. is it possible the wiring somehow shorted in the mag tube? did you cover the contacts and solder points at all?[
> 
> could be possible. The driver was taped up a bit. Dont know what else could of shorted


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## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

You almost certainly had a short for those wires to get that hot. 3A of current won't burn insulation off of 22ga wire and melt solder like that under normal operating conditions. Maybe the emitter is still good. Like Irv_usc said, you can use some Alkalines in series to test the emitter, or you can use the batteries you have. Just remember, if you see the emitter light up, break the circuit so you don't damage the emitter. Maybe you didn't fry it. Did you notice a tint shift when the light was on for the 30 second test run? If you ever see light turning blue, let out of the throttle as fast as you can. Don't ask me how I know


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## holdthat1 (Jun 17, 2010)

ti-force said:


> You almost certainly had a short for those wires to get that hot. 3A of current won't burn insulation off of 22ga wire and melt solder like that under normal operating conditions. Maybe the emitter is still good. Like Irv_usc said, you can use some Alkalines in series to test the emitter, or you can use the batteries you have. Just remember, if you see the emitter light up, break the circuit so you don't damage the emitter. Maybe you didn't fry it. Did you notice a tint shift when the light was on for the 30 second test run? If you ever see light turning blue, let out of the throttle as fast as you can. Don't ask me how I know


 
hmm I guess this explains why the reverse polarity diode went  on the driver. Thanks for the feed back guys. Ill give this a try when I get home.

Also, could I use this cable for my mod 
http://www.batteryspace.com/compone...hledindicatorandtrailtechmaleandopenwire.aspx


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## vestureofblood (Jun 18, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> @ vesture
> 
> The leads on the led actually melted. I know in the pics the solder job looks bad but it didnt look like that until after I used my light. THink I will try again. still a bit confused as what went wrong. What would have caused that much heat to make the wires melt? Ill test the led with acouple of batteries when I get home. From the looks of it I think its done. Do you have a spare p7 emitter? and I know the driver is done too so I'll need that too.


 
I apologize, and stand corrected. It does seem that given the info you have provided that a short is the cause of this. It has been my experience when something heats up that fast there is a pos neg cross somewhere. Those D cell batteries are probly capable of like a 20 amp short circuit discharge. 

It took minutes or runtime for the head of my P7 mag to get hot. So 30 seconds is very very fast.

I am guessing your led is toast, if it got hot enough to pull the leads out there is no fixing it.

I dont have any teflon wire thick enough to use for 3A, but I do have regular stranded I use all the time. I also have an extra P7 and driver.

One other thing I will mention. It is common with this type of mod to trim the legs of the emitter before soldering to them. This makes it more difficult for the legs to get pulled out (not as much leverage) although in this case it probly would not have been enough.


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## ti-force (Jun 18, 2010)

I've purchased teflon coated wire from this place before (click here). It's not a good as the stuff Mudman sells, but it's way better than what you've been using. I'm guessing the insulation was either torn or melted somewhere when you assembled this light and that bare wire made contact with the opposite polarity and crated a short. You will at least get something good out of this situation though. You will probably be more cautious next time, which could possibly allow you to catch potential problems before it's too late.

Something has happened to all of us modders along the way. Don't get discouraged, just learn from it. You know the old saying "learned a valuable lesson"? Well when it hits your pockets, you seem to learn a little quicker haha... Hey, look on the bright side, this could've happened with one of those $40-$50 SST-90's that you considered using earlier in this thread. Now that would really hurt . Keep us updated, and don't hesitate to ask questions.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 18, 2010)

well the led is done. so I need an emitter and driver : ( Also, will this cable and switch work for my mod. http://www.batteryspace.com/compone...thmaleandfemaletrail-techcoaxisconnector.aspx 

@vesture

check your pm please 


Richard


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## irv_usc (Jun 18, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> well the led is done. so I need an emitter and driver : ( Also, will this cable and switch work for my mod. http://www.batteryspace.com/compone...thmaleandfemaletrail-techcoaxisconnector.aspx



as long as you stay with a single P7 it looks like it should be fine.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 23, 2010)

Im going to try this mod. Hopefully I wont kill this light. 

@vesture check your pm please!


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## vestureofblood (Jun 24, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> Im going to try this mod. Hopefully I wont kill this light.
> 
> @vesture check your pm please!


 

Resend please, I think I deleted your message.


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## holdthat1 (Jun 25, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> Resend please, I think I deleted your message.


 OK I sent the message again:tinfoil:


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## holdthat1 (Jun 25, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> Resend please, I think I deleted your message.


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## Stereodude (Jun 25, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> hmmm.... Thats a good question. Havent put to much thought into it. Seems most mag mods use the stock reflector so I hadnt thought about using a different one. Can you recommend a good reflector?


Well, I got my 3 KD reflectors in, so I can now answer your question... :wave:

The _KD M*g OP reflector V3.1 15mm Opening_ is the best one I've found so far. It's $15. The cheaper _$5.53 KD P7 Reflector (52.66*29mm)_ needs quite a bit of modification to fit into a Mag head. It took me several hours of working on it with a set of files to get it to fit in there. The beam with the cheaper KD P7 reflector is perhaps a tad better than the more expensive KD v3.1 OP one (though not much), but the reflector is really too short which means the Mag head has to be unscrewed quite a bit, so it's loose and not over the rubber o-ring which is a problem. The head wobbles, can easily be unscrewed, and isn't even water resistant. I guess you could get around this be removing the lip of the P7 heatsink to allow the LED and heatsink to be pushed further into the light's body and the head to be put on to a normal position, but that would reduces the space for the driver under the heatsink and probably make it impossible to remove (if needed) as well. 

Also, FWIW, I was not able to get a suitable beam (ie: well defined hotspot without any cross pattern) with a P7 LED using a smooth reflector regardless of placement.


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## vestureofblood (Jul 6, 2010)

Did you get this light going?


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## holdthat1 (Jul 9, 2010)

I finished putting it together last night. I need to do the tail spring mod and find a mm to test the current. I noticed when the light is on med, the driver makes a humming sound. I'm not impressed with the brightness (or lack thereof).


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## ti-force (Jul 9, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> I finished putting it together last night. I need to do the tail spring mod and find a mm to test the current. I noticed when the light is on med, the driver makes a humming sound. I'm not impressed with the brightness (or lack thereof).



You need a meter. Once you get one, measure your emitter Vf to see what it is. With you running the Shiningbeam driver and 3-NiMH's, you need a low emitter Vf. If it's 3.6v, the driver could be dropping out of regulation. Or you might be expecting too much from your light . You're not going to set any trees on fire or anything with that light. It should make somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 OTF lumens if everything is working properly.


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## vestureofblood (Jul 10, 2010)

The emitter is CSVNI, so the VF of the led should not be a problem. 

I am a little surprised to hear you are not impressed by the output. I had the first P7 mag I built for over a year, and I still loved taking it out on the porch at night every chance I got.


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## holdthat1 (Jul 13, 2010)

vestureofblood said:


> The emitter is CSVNI, so the VF of the led should not be a problem.
> 
> I am a little surprised to hear you are not impressed by the output. I had the first P7 mag I built for over a year, and I still loved taking it out on the porch at night every chance I got.


 
Ok, I have an mm. Where would I placed the leeds for the mm. On the led?


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## vestureofblood (Jul 14, 2010)

That depends on what you want to measure. Most often what is measured is the current (amps). On high you should be getting around 2.8 amp with your set up. Normally what has to be done to measure current is you disconnect one of the leads from the driver to the LED and put the multimeter in its place to complete the circuit. However with the driver you are using you wont need to do that. 

What you can do is make sure your leads are in the correct holes. Most often the black lead remains in the center hole and the red lead moves from the right side to the left (should say 10A). Then turn your DMM to the 10A setting. Remove the tailcap from your light and turn the switch on. Touch the black lead to the battery neg, and the red one to the body of the light where the anodizing is removed. You may have do do this a couple of times quickly to get the light to cycle to high mode. On high you should get a reading of 2.8A.


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## ti-force (Jul 14, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> Ok, I have an mm. Where would I placed the leeds for the mm. On the led?



Pictures are worth a thousand words:

Click here


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## holdthat1 (Jul 17, 2010)

ti-force said:


> Pictures are worth a thousand words:
> 
> Click here



Thanks vesture and ti-force for the replies. I finished the tail cap mod and tested the current as well. MM showed about 2.65 amps  When I first tested the light, my batteries were not fully charged and I didn't mod the tail cap. Now, I can say I am very pleased with the brightness of this light. :thumbsup: I want to thank everyone who helped me with my light especially vesture and ti-force. Completing this build has inspired me to try another mod. My fathers bday is coming up next month so I would like to mod a light for him. I want something brighter than the p7 maybe a sst-90 or sst-50. Still need to do a bit of research about them. I'll post some beam shots as soon as the batteries finish charging for the camera. Again, thanks everyone for your help.


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## ti-force (Jul 17, 2010)

holdthat1 said:


> Thanks vesture and ti-force for the replies. I finished the tail cap mod and tested the current as well. MM showed about 2.65 amps  When I first tested the light, my batteries were not fully charged and I didn't mod the tail cap. Now, I can say I am very pleased with the brightness of this light. :thumbsup: I want to thank everyone who helped me with my light especially vesture and ti-force. Completing this build has inspired me to try another mod. My fathers bday is coming up next month so I would like to mod a light for him. I want something brighter than the p7 maybe a sst-90 or sst-50. Still need to do a bit of research about them. I'll post some beam shots as soon as the batteries finish charging for the camera. Again, thanks everyone for your help.



Beamshots!!




Beamshots!!



Beamshots!!



.............. 


Seriously though, you've learned a lot from this build, and you can only get better from here. Congratulations


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## holdthat1 (Jul 18, 2010)

Purchased a better mm over the weekend. This meter shows 2.75 amps!!! Definitely love this light.


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