# L11C



## MightyP (Jan 17, 2015)

I very recently heard a rumor L3 Illumination will be coming out with an L11C. I've searched on here and with general web searches and can't find any info. 

Anyone know anything about it?

Thanks!


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## andrew2 (Jan 18, 2015)

What's the L3 Illumination?


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## Sadsack (Jan 18, 2015)

I viewed same rumor in a post around here somewhere ?


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## MightyP (Jan 19, 2015)

L3 Illumination makes flashlights. Specifically, the L10C, a light I love but apparently isn't so reliable. I heard a rumor the L11C (an upgraded version of the L10C?) is coming out soon. Just wondering if anyone knows any info.

Here's a link to the L10C.


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## 5S8Zh5 (Jan 19, 2015)

They also make the L10 1 AA twisty in multi-colors or neutral.


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## Amelia (May 11, 2015)

I got an email today from a friend who is in contact with L3 Illumination. The email says that the L11C should "go live" and be available for sale at the beginning of this week.
I'm excited - I have a L10C (Nichia 219, 4-mode), it's one of my favorite lights in terms of beam quality - I just don't trust it much because of various reports of unreliability. Hopefully the L11C will solve all that, and maybe be a bit shorter too... we'll see!


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## markr6 (May 11, 2015)

I'm excited to see what happens here. I had an L10C but as much as I liked it, I hated the UI. Constantly cycling thru modes drove me nuts. Like the L10 twisty, the reset time seemed like an eternity (about 6 seconds).


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## Amelia (May 12, 2015)

I just checked the SBFlashlights website. The L11C in both Cree and Nichia emitter versions is now orderable.
However, it looks like they just copied all the L10C information on the description. Still says 219A on emitter type, even though they switched to 219b on all their lights months ago.
I think I'll order a natural colored Nichia 219 version with 4-modes tomorrow!


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## markr6 (May 12, 2015)

Amelia said:


> I just checked the SBFlashlights website. The L11C in both Cree and Nichia emitter versions is now orderable.
> However, it looks like they just copied all the L10C information on the description. Still says 219A on emitter type, even though they switched to 219b on all their lights months ago.
> I think I'll order a natural colored Nichia 219 version with 4-modes tomorrow!



Yeah looks like a copy-and-paste. I would actually like the 219A though!

So, what's different on this model vs. the L10C?


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## ronniepudding (May 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Yeah looks like a copy-and-paste. I would actually like the 219A though!
> 
> So, what's different on this model vs. the L10C?



LOL, was very excited to see the new light when I saw this post, but when I went to the website even the picture is recycled from the L10C =\ I guess it's what you'd call an incremental upgrade 

I had corresponded with SBflashlights a few weeks back about this release, and they said the differences are "*Minor improvements to the clip, internals etc. New packaging as well.*" So _hopefully _that means they strengthened the wiring/soldering to make it more drop resistant, and took a millimeter off of the top of the clip so it will tail-stand better. I don't really care about the packaging, but I actually liked the plastic case they used to come in since it could be reused to store and transport the light... hopefully they stayed with that concept rather than switching to throw-away retail packaging. 

When someone gets one of these, I'd love to see a pic and hear first impressions... I really like my L10C, and will likely buy the upgrade if they've done a good job with the improvements.


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## markr6 (May 12, 2015)

OK. I liked the simple plastic case too. I took a Dremel to my L10C clip to make it tailstand; didn't take much at all. Not the most robust clip, but it was OK by me.

I think I'll pass since I hated the UI on my L10C...cycling thry low and medium all the time. Plus I found the switch to feel/sound cheap (loud).


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## ronniepudding (May 12, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I took a Dremel to my L10C clip to make it tailstand; didn't take much at all. Not the most robust clip, but it was OK by me.



Tailstanding isn't really an important use-case for me, so I didn't mind the fact that the clip protruded a bit beyond the base of the light enough to do something about it. As you say, it's easily fixed, -- but still it's an implementation fail that i hope they resolve in this new version. Where I think they got it right is the tension of the clip... a good amount of grippiness without being a pocket-shredder, and easy to clip on or off the pocket with one hand. Not as good as Quark clips (which are the best IMHO), but I think better than Eagletac D25 or Zebralight clips.



markr6 said:


> I think I'll pass since I hated the UI on my L10C...cycling thry low and medium all the time.



Different strokes... I prefer starting in low if I have to choose one or the other. However, I'm still a big fan of the old-school UI found on (for example) Fenix LD10/20, Quark Pro series, and EagleTac D25 series -- where you can choose high or low output with a head twist before even turning the light on. I understand why L3 Illumination doesn't use that sort of UI with this series, but I think it would make more people happy if they did. 



markr6 said:


> Plus I found the switch to feel/sound cheap (loud).



It is indeed a loud clicky switch, probably the loudest in my collection.... but I don't mind the feel of it per se. Re: durability, the switch has held up so far.


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## markr6 (May 12, 2015)

ronniepudding said:


> Different strokes... I prefer starting in low if I have to choose one or the other. However, I'm still a big fan of the old-school UI found on (for example) Fenix LD10/20, Quark Pro series, and EagleTac D25 series -- where you can choose high or low output with a head twist before even turning the light on. I understand why L3 Illumination doesn't use that sort of UI with this series, but I think it would make more people happy if they did.



Yeah it's hard to choose one or the other; really depends on how you use it. Too bad there isn't a simple program for two modes:

1. L>M>H
2. H>M>L

That way lumen lovers have little issue using mode 2 all the time. Nighttime sleepwalkers will like mode 1. Done.


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## Amelia (May 12, 2015)

Wow!
I guess I'm one of the few who find the UI on the L10C to be perfect! I really like the mode spacing too... and the beam is nearly flawless.
I'm just afraid to use the thing much because of all the failure reports.


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## markr6 (May 12, 2015)

Amelia said:


> Wow!
> I guess I'm one of the few who find the UI on the L10C to be perfect! I really like the mode spacing too... and the beam is nearly flawless.
> I'm just afraid to use the thing much because of all the failure reports.



Everything about it was pretty much perfect IMO, but I just can't get used to always cycling to get to high. That's what keeps me from loving most EagleTac lights, and then those flashy modes...pure torture!


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## ronniepudding (May 12, 2015)

Amelia said:


> Wow! I guess I'm one of the few who find the UI on the L10C to be perfect! I really like the mode spacing too...



I think UI on L10C is very good, and didn't mean to imply otherwise above... the lack of blinky modes is for my purposes a big plus, and more than makes up for the fact that it cannot be programmed or otherwise set to start on high. Simplicity is a good thing, especially when you factor in the price.



Amelia said:


> I'm just afraid to use the thing much because of all the failure reports.



This will (hopefully) be the main "feature" of the L11C... improved durability. I haven't had any problems with my L10C, but then again I haven't dropped it (yet).


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## herbicide (May 14, 2015)

I received mine - in Nichia 219B - today. 

Some initial thoughts - 

Nice anodising, though a bit slippery in the hand. The clip's a bit thin, but it's deep and grippy enough to work with my belt and pockets. There's noticeable battery rattle.


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## Amelia (May 14, 2015)

herbicide,
Thanks for the mini-review! Mine (I decided on Orange 4-Mode) is arriving tomorrow.
So far, based on your photos, it looks EXACTLY the same as the L10C. This is disappointing in a way - I was hoping they might shorten the light a bit. However, it's ALL good if they fixed the reliability issue - it's the main thing that keeps me from loving my L10C and using it more. Better 14500 support would be nice too...


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## herbicide (May 14, 2015)

No problem. This is my first from L3, so I'm currently thinking '_reliability issue'?_ What _reliability issue!?_ :s

I'll keep my fingers crossed. ...as for 14500s; they still disrecommend them due to heat. The head's based around a brass pill, but it doesn't scream _huge heatsink_ to me.


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## markr6 (May 14, 2015)

herbicide said:


> I'll keep my fingers crossed. ...as for 14500s; they still disrecommend them due to heat. The head's based around a brass pill, but it doesn't scream _huge heatsink_ to me.



May not be a huge loss anyway. When I put 14500s in my L10, I basically had high, slightly higher, and HIGH modes.


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (May 14, 2015)

Amelia said:


> Wow!
> I guess I'm one of the few who find the UI on the L10C to be perfect! I really like the mode spacing too... and the beam is nearly flawless.
> I'm just afraid to use the thing much because of all the failure reports.



Hi Amelia,
You are not alone...I too love the spacing of the modes, and I will always prefer my primary light to come on in moonlight over High on all of my small lights. I used this light a lot, a whole lot, and never had a failure(I also never dropped it-which is unusual, as I often find myself in situations where a light may get bumped, dropped, thrown or submerged, but perhaps this light is living a charmed life. The beam is beautiful as well. I did dremel the clip with ease. These days, I have a number of other lights I tend to EDC, although this is sometimes in my rotation in 2nd, 3rd or fourth back up spot. The other night I actually found myself carrying 5 lights...


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## ronniepudding (May 14, 2015)

Is the top of the clip where it's bolted on to the tail cap flush with or shy of the end of the light? On the L10, the clip was slightly proud and made tail standing a bit wobbly.


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## markr6 (May 14, 2015)

I like the beam and spacing, but not the UI so much.

Can new owners verify the reset time? Previous versions were 5-7 seconds. Way too long IMO.


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## herbicide (May 14, 2015)

It's just shy by about a hair's width, so stands stably enough.

'reset time'?


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## markr6 (May 14, 2015)

herbicide said:


> 'reset time'?



Sorry...when you advance to a mode and turn it off, how long do you have to wait until it will come back on in low instead of the next mode.


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## herbicide (May 14, 2015)

Ah. It's about four or five seconds.


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## ronniepudding (May 14, 2015)

herbicide said:


> It's just shy by about a hair's width, so stands stably enough.



Thanks Herbie!


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## Amelia (May 14, 2015)

herbicide said:


> No problem. This is my first from L3, so I'm currently thinking '_reliability issue'?_ What _reliability issue!?_ :s



There have been a LOT of reports of the L10C failing with impacts, dropping, etc. and quite a few of failures where the light had been used gently then just failed for no reason. I talked to the SB Flashlights guy on the phone about it, and he said it was a "factory flaw" that affected somewhere around 5% of the lights. From my understanding, the MAIN reason for the L11C re-design was to fix this. From what I've seen so far, it might actually be the only thing different between the two models.


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## twistedraven (May 14, 2015)

Order placed on Nichia natural gray version.


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## Sivy (May 15, 2015)

I see on the new packaging that the Max Lumens on both emitters has risen ,this is now rated at 160 cool white and 140 neutral which is higher than on L10c, are the lower modes the same as the L10c? 

i like the .09, 3 , 30 values and spacing of the lower modes on my L10C and wonder if someone can tell me if they are the same on the L11c or if they have change slightly like the high.


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## ronniepudding (May 15, 2015)

Sivy said:


> I see on the new packaging that the Max Lumens on both emitters has risen ,this is now rated at 160 cool white and 140 neutral which is higher than on L10c, are the lower modes the same as the L10c?
> 
> i like the .09, 3 , 30 values and spacing of the lower modes on my L10C and wonder if someone can tell me if they are the same on the L11c or if they have change slightly like the high.



It would be nice if the true specs were updated on the manufacturer's website... but unfortunately the specs they've posted have not changed since the original L10 was released years ago. =\ (looks like a copy and paste)


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## KITROBASKIN (May 15, 2015)

ronniepudding said:


> It would be nice if the true specs were updated on the manufacturer's website... but unfortunately the specs they've posted have not changed since the original L10 was released years ago. =\ (looks like a copy and paste)



The SB website does not make clear for new buyers whether the L11c twists for activation or a switch is involved. And the so-called manuals seem to be jumbled between models. At least they specify that the new Nichia is a 219B 4500K and there is a comment about 14500 batteries; much appreciated.


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## herbicide (May 16, 2015)

It's a clicky:


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## Amelia (May 16, 2015)

My L11C arrived today. Orange 4-mode Nichia 219, to sort of match my Black 4-mode L10C Nichia 219. I compared the two lights side by side. As far as I can tell, they are completely identical other than 2 things:

1 - The L11C tailstands better. The end of the pocket clip no longer sticks out past the tailcap edge. My L10C has always been a bit "wobbly".

2 - The L11C seems to have identical mode spacing (yay!!!), but the highest mode seems to be just slightly brighter. Judging "by eye", it seems about 10% brighter.

I'm happy with my purchase, and I totally love the orange anodizing!


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## PapaLumen (May 16, 2015)

I soo want one of these. Only available from sb though  $15 shipping to uk


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## twistedraven (May 18, 2015)

I got mine in today (natural gray Nichia 219b). I've been searching for the perfect tint in a flashlight, and thought I'd try the L11C out since it's cheap enough. I've been looking for something as close to direct mid-day direct sunlight, so something close to 5,000k to 5,500k with as much CRI as possible and lack of any weird tint aberrations. I have an Eagletac D25LC2 with 219A (4500k I think, 92cri), and a Zebralight SC62D (5000k 85cri) to compare to.

Unfortunately, this wasn't the change in tint from the Eagletac that I was looking for, here are some pics:

L11C (left) and D25LC2 (right)






L11C (left) and SC62D (right)







The 62D is listed at 5000k, so I can only assume the L11C is 4500k just like the Eagletac. Either that, or the two Nichia lights are at 5000k and the Luxeon is more like 5500k. Regardless, there's a large enough temperature difference between the Nichias and the Luxeon. I was hoping to get a cct closer to the Luxeon, but without the slight green and purple shifts.


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## GordoJones88 (May 18, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> I can only assume the L11C is 4500k just like the Eagletac.






Nichia NVSL219BT-SW45/D220 4500K, 92 CRI
 

It's the first spec listed on the page you ordered the light from.


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## ronniepudding (May 18, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> Unfortunately, this wasn't the change in tint from the Eagletac that I was looking for...



Hard to tell from a pic, but it does look like the L11C and D25LC2 have nearly the same tint in your beamslice. Despite what I was told by the manufacturer, it's possible they have the same emitter.

Could you take a look at the LEDs and report back? Here's a link showing the differences between 219A and 219B in appearance, the obvious difference being that little rectangle between 10 o'clock and 11 o'clock is yellow on a 219A, and white on a 219B.


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## twistedraven (May 18, 2015)

Hard to tell, but it looks like a white square on the Eagletac using my camera's macro mode. In that case maybe these two LEDs are the exact same.


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## ronniepudding (May 18, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> Hard to tell, but it looks like a white square on the Eagletac using my camera's macro mode. In that case maybe these two LEDs are the exact same.



I was more interested in the emitter on the L11C  ... Does it look like an A or B?


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## twistedraven (May 18, 2015)

The L11C is indeed a 219B, and at 4500k most likely. Slightly too warm for my liking, but really nice regardless.


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## jon_slider (May 21, 2015)

ronniepudding said:


> Here's a link showing the differences between 219A and 219B in appearance, the obvious difference being that little rectangle between 10 o'clock and 11 o'clock is yellow on a 219A, and white on a 219B.



Thanks for the Link!
here is the 219A on left and the 219B on right









The little yellow box at 11 oclock on the 219A is just a reflection afaict, but there does seem to be another visible difference, the dome on the A looks rounded, and on the B it looks squared off. You can also see the A is more golden.

I really appreciate when people include side by side beamshots on a wall, to a known emitter and a new comparison emitter. I also find that photos of the LED reflected in the head, side by side can be very helpful in making comparisons. I mean like this:
N219A on Left, XP-G2 on right





here is a beam comparison





and the CRI and color temperatures, thanks to Prometheus letting me test my lights on their instrument
This is my Maratac Rev3 XP-G2





and this is my Prometheus Beta Copper N219A





Back on topic, the L11C uses the same head as the L10 and L08, and the same N219B I think. Ive just ordered an L08, will post comparison with my Beta with N219A.. If I can impose on Jason at darksucks, I will also get a CCT and CRI for the L08. One thing I like about the L3 lights were discussing, is they are not PWM, so I also plan to measure the CCT and CRI on the low modes, where PWM is supposed to be better at maintaining tint fidelity..

I cant say enough how kind darksucks has been to test the beams on my lights. And Im Loving the high CRI on my Beta!!! My secret hope is to swap the L08 head innards into the Maratac


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

jon_slider,
I have an L3 Illumination L08, L10, L10C, and L11C. All are 4-mode Nichia 219 versions. All 4 of them are made with the Nichia 219B emitter. I believe, after reading a lot about these lights, that only a few L10 lights at the beginning of the production runs got the Nichia 219A emitter (with 500K lower color temp.). The big problem here is that the lazy and/or uncaring people at SBFlashlights (the sole U.S. distributor for L3 illumination) never bothered to update the specs on the website to N219B, causing a HUGE amount of confusion, speculation, disappointment, and continued debate.

To recap, if you order ANYTHING from L3 Illumination, you will get a Nichia 219B emitter, with 5000K color temperature (the SB webpage still claims 4500K, which is WRONG!). The 219A 4500K models are long gone - if you like that emitter, treasure it if you have it!


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## gunga (May 21, 2015)

Also remember, the L08 has an AA sized head so you can't swap the innards into a Maratac!


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

gunga said:


> Also remember, the L08 has an AA sized head so you can't swap the innards into a Maratac!



Yes. The L08 is pretty worthless as a AAA light - unless you absolutely must use that cell size for some reason. The light is very, very close to the size of the L10, other than the diameter of the battery tube. I've put both on my keychain at different times, and the perceived bulk of the two is identical. 1/3 the capacity with the same bulk = NOT Win!


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## markr6 (May 21, 2015)

Amelia said:


> To recap, if you order ANYTHING from L3 Illumination, you will get a Nichia 219B emitter, with 5000K color temperature (the SB webpage still claims 4500K, which is WRONG!). The 219A 4500K models are long gone - if you like that emitter, treasure it if you have it!



I have two L10s with the 219A. I like my 4500K better, but the 5000K is nice too.


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I have two L10s with the 219A. I like my 4500K better, but the 5000K is nice too.



You're lucky! I've never even seen a 219A (other than in photographs) so I've never had the chance to compare.
I'd probably like the 219B better though - I don't care for warm emitters. For me, the more neutral the better!


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## WalkIntoTheLight (May 21, 2015)

Amelia said:


> You're lucky! I've never even seen a 219A (other than in photographs) so I've never had the chance to compare.
> I'd probably like the 219B better though - I don't care for warm emitters. For me, the more neutral the better!



I have a L10 with a 219A. I like it very much! It's very close in tint to the SC52w-L2 with a neutral XM-L2. Of course, the 219A has no green corona, unlike Cree LEDs. It also shows colours a little better than the Cree. But I also like the SC52w-L2 tint.

Other Cree XML2 neutrals I have are a little cooler in tint. I think it depends on what random bin the manufacturers use.


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## twistedraven (May 21, 2015)

Are we sure it's a 5000k emitter? It's a considerably warmer tint compared to my 62D's 5000k Luxeon. And if it really is a 5000k emitter, then I don't see how on any given day anybody could consider 4500k neutral white.

My biggest complaint so far on the L11C is the clicky, it's just not as rigid and sturdy feeling as I would like, because the plastic button underneath the rubber bootcap doesn't span the entire width of the cap, so the cap itself feels mushy on the sides.


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## jon_slider (May 21, 2015)

gunga said:


> Also remember, the L08 has an AA sized head so you can't swap the innards into a Maratac!



Oh Darn! Thanks, I missed that detail.. might as well get the L10 or L11 AA versions then.. hmm
anyway, will share what info I can, wall comparison, maybe a CCT and CRI scan, with my 219A Prometheus Beta..

I sooo want to find a non PWM N219 swap for my Maratac , the D25aaa would be a contender except I really want sublumen low level too... I want, I want, I want... LOL!


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## markr6 (May 21, 2015)

They are hard to describe. I would actually call the 219A more "neutral" and the 219B leaning towards cool, but in a good way. Flip a coin really, unless you get them side by side!


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

markr6 said:


> They are hard to describe. I would actually call the 219A more "neutral" and the 219B leaning towards cool, but in a good way. Flip a coin really, unless you get them side by side!



Does the 219A still have the "light grayish-tan" coloration? Or is the tint color different?


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> Are we sure it's a 5000k emitter? It's a considerably warmer tint compared to my 62D's 5000k Luxeon. And if it really is a 5000k emitter, then I don't see how on any given day anybody could consider 4500k neutral white.
> 
> My biggest complaint so far on the L11C is the clicky, it's just not as rigid and sturdy feeling as I would like, because the plastic button underneath the rubber bootcap doesn't span the entire width of the cap, so the cap itself feels mushy on the sides.



I personally think that it's probably around 4700K-4800K, based on my own observations and comparisons. Definitely warmer than the SC62D at 5000K... but not by much. The Luxeon greenish-blue tint also makes it more difficult to gauge accurately - the 219B is definitely less "tinted".


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## markr6 (May 21, 2015)

Amelia said:


> The Luxeon greenish-blue tint also makes it more difficult to gauge accurately - the 219B is definitely less "tinted".



Exactly!! I couldn't think how to say this without being confusing.

This tries to show the bluish-greenish tint. Not bad, but it's there.







And one to show why I also like the 219B 5000K, and NOT cool whites:


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## twistedraven (May 21, 2015)

The 219B still comes off just as tinted as the Luxeon to me. Whereas the Luxeon is greenish in the hotspot and blueish in the spill, the 219B is more even from spot to spill, but overall tannish. I attribute most of that to a cct that's too low though. In this aspect, the hotspot of the Luxeon does a better job at replicating midday sunlight than the Nichia for my tastes. Both lack a distinct amount of cyan. So Nichias don't come in any higher CCT than the 219B in the L11C?


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## jon_slider (May 21, 2015)

markr6 said:


> Exactly!! I couldn't think how to say this without being confusing.
> 
> This tries to show the bluish-greenish tint. Not bad, but it's there.
> 
> ...



I was hoping someone would post photos, Thanks!
Could you please add the info that identifies each LED for each light beam?


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> The 219B still comes off just as tinted as the Luxeon to me. Whereas the Luxeon is greenish in the hotspot and blueish in the spill, the 219B is more even from spot to spill, but overall tannish. I attribute most of that to a cct that's too low though. In this aspect, the hotspot of the Luxeon does a better job at replicating midday sunlight than the Nichia for my tastes. Both lack a distinct amount of cyan. So Nichias don't come in any higher CCT than the 219B in the L11C?



Correct. The Nichia 219B is the highest CCT emitter available in the 219 family, based on my researches. Claimed 5000K, probably 4700K-4800K in reality.


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## Gerardn3 (May 21, 2015)

Just got my L11C today. I ordered mine before reading the information here about the LED being 5000K instead of 4500K, so I was expecting 4500K. However, with the testing I've done so far indoors, I'm quite satisfied with the color quality of the light. To my eyes it's very neutral with no noticeable tints, and I've seen many, many LEDs I couldn't say the same about, so much so that I've been hesitant to buy any more LED flashlights. However, I really needed a small, floody light with more pocket-ability and light output than my incandescent lights, so I decided to finally order an L3 once the L11C hit the market.

This is the first LED flashlight I've had with an LED like this, and the difference is night and day from the cool white, often poorly tinted LED flashlights I've used before. I won't get to test the L11C outdoors until tonight, but I suspect I might still find the light a bit cool outdoors at night, but I don't think I would have preferred 4500K to the 5000K of the L11C. If I wanted a warmer light, I would probably want something more in the realm of 3000-3500K similar to a hot incandescent light. That said, I think the 5000K of the L11C will work great for me as I will be using it a lot indoors and during the day as an EDC light.

The only possible issue I have with my example is that the LED is a little off-center. I'm not sure how much of that is expected with these, but in my daytime indoor testing so far I couldn't really notice an issue with the beam itself. I'm used to incandescent thrower lights with which if the filament were visibly off-center it would clearly degrade the beam quality. I guess it's not such an issue with a floody, textured reflector LED light, but it bothers me OCD a bit. It's a shame that SB has some misinformation on their website, but aside from that the ordering was easy and the shipping was quick.


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## ronniepudding (May 21, 2015)

Amelia said:


> Correct. The Nichia 219B is the highest CCT emitter available in the 219 family, based on my researches. Claimed 5000K, probably 4700K-4800K in reality.



I was wondering how much temperature/CCT variability there is with the 219B... especially when comparing different batches. I only have one of them (in an L10C), so I can't do a comparison myself, -- but since you have an L10C and an L11C, do you see any tint difference between the two of them?

(sorry if you already posted this and I missed it)


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## GordoJones88 (May 21, 2015)

Amelia said:


> Yes. The L08 is pretty worthless as a AAA light - unless you absolutely must use that cell size for some reason. The light is very, very close to the size of the L10, other than the diameter of the battery tube. I've put both on my keychain at different times, and the perceived bulk of the two is identical. 1/3 the capacity with the same bulk = NOT Win!




Yes. 
And the runtime curve is horrific.


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## chuckhov (May 21, 2015)

_"The big problem here is that the lazy and/or uncaring people..."

I love it when people speak the truth!

Fix your website, SB!

-Chuck_


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## ronniepudding (May 21, 2015)

Gerardn3 said:


> Just got my L11C today. I ordered mine before reading the information here about the LED being 5000K instead of 4500K, so I was expecting 4500K. However, with the testing I've done so far indoors, I'm quite satisfied with the color quality of the light.



I understand why TwistedRaven is slightly dissatisfied with his L11C since his purpose in buying the light was to achieve a very specific tint... but for anyone who's buying one of these as their first high-CRI or even their first neutral white emitter, L3 Illumination's flashlights with N219 have a very good reputation for tint, and have been top-notch in my experience. I've often seen the L10 used as a reference tint when comparing beamshots, etc. with other lights on this forum. I recall when I got my first Nichia 219A light (Xeno E03), it was a eureka moment for me, and I still favor lights with 219A & 219B emitters over all others.



Gerardn3 said:


> The only possible issue I have with my example is that the LED is a little off-center. I'm not sure how much of that is expected with these, ... I guess it's not such an issue with a floody, textured reflector LED light, but it bothers me OCD a bit. It's a shame that SB has some misinformation on their website, but aside from that the ordering was easy and the shipping was quick.



I've have a couple of L3 Illumination lights with mildly off-center emitters too, and I can't see any impact to the beam profile/quality at all on mine, so I didn't worry about it. If the beam WAS bad on your sample, I'd say send it back. I've purchased a number of lights from SB, and have found them good to deal with. In the end, these are relatively low budget lights, so the build quality is not perfect and the switch feel is not impeccable. However, I have found the L08, L10, and L10C reliable and good to use, -- and since they are inexpensive to replace, I find myself using and carrying them often.


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## Gerardn3 (May 21, 2015)

ronniepudding said:


> I understand why TwistedRaven is slightly dissatisfied with his L11C since his purpose in buying the light was to achieve a very specific tint... but for anyone who's buying one of these as their first high-CRI or even their first neutral white emitter, L3 Illumination's flashlights with N219 have a very good reputation for tint, and have been top-notch in my experience. I've often seen the L10 used as a reference tint when comparing beamshots, etc. with other lights on this forum. I recall when I got my first Nichia 219A light (Xeno E03), it was a eureka moment for me, and I still favor lights with 219A & 219B emitters over all others.



In practice, I don't think 5000K versus 4500K would have made much of a difference for my usage, but the specs on the product page should definitely be corrected. The light quality of this Nichia makes me dream of having a thrower with a 3500K version for outdoor use. Together, a flashlight like that plus the L11C would probably cover all of my flashlight uses. While I'm at it, I'd like some household LEDs with the same kind of quality, but that's another matter... I've definitely developed a craving for more Nichia.





ronniepudding said:


> I've have a couple of L3 Illumination lights with mildly off-center emitters too, and I can't see any impact to the beam profile/quality at all on mine, so I didn't worry about it.



I'll have to make sure it's not impacting the beam quality, but if the beam is fine then I'll just have to keep my OCD in check and enjoy. Sometimes I feel jealous of those who can just use a poorly tinted 8000K LED flashlight with a spastic beam pattern and not even think twice about it as long as they can see something, but at least this forum shows I'm not all alone in my obsessions...


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (May 21, 2015)

Has anyone called SB to point out the problem?I would be a little slower to call someone lazy if they are not even aware of it. They have always provided excellent service, and are one of a handful that carry neutral to warm tints.


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

ronniepudding said:


> I was wondering how much temperature/CCT variability there is with the 219B... especially when comparing different batches. I only have one of them (in an L10C), so I can't do a comparison myself, -- but since you have an L10C and an L11C, do you see any tint difference between the two of them?
> 
> (sorry if you already posted this and I missed it)



As of my L11C purchase, I now have 8 lights with Nichia 219B emitters. I've done side-by-side comparisons, and they ALL look identical to me, sort of a light grayish-tan tint with the slightest hint of orange in the corona. Nichia 219B seems to be a super consistent or really well binned part.


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## jake25 (May 21, 2015)

The L08, L10, L10c and L11c Nichia models have always and will always be 4500k. The only difference is between A and B, if the website states A we have a mix of both A and B from old and new stock. The L11c is strictly 4500k Nichia 219B. I have no clue where speculation of 5000k comes from :shrug:. -Jason SBF


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## markr6 (May 21, 2015)

jake25 said:


> The L08, L10, L10c and L11c Nichia models have always and will always be 4500k. The only difference is between A and B, if the website states A we have a mix of both A and B from old and new stock. The L11c is strictly 4500k Nichia 219B. I have no clue where speculation of 5000k comes from :shrug:. -Jason SBF



Wow, I'm really surprised by this. Both my L10s and L10C tints were completely different. Both nice though.

I remember when the 5000K talk started, but not sure what specific thread. That rumor sure gained traction!


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

jake25 said:


> The L08, L10, L10c and L11c Nichia models have always and will always be 4500k. The only difference is between A and B, if the website states A we have a mix of both A and B from old and new stock. The L11c is strictly 4500k Nichia 219B. I have no clue where speculation of 5000k comes from :shrug:. -Jason SBF



Thank you for the clarification. According to the Nichia datasheet, the emitter listed for the L11C is specified as falling into the 4260K-4775K range, which would make the average sample probably somewhere around 4500K as you state. My own comparisons with several other lights in this temp. range lead me to believe that your lights are probably toward the upper end of this range, approaching the 4700K area. There are many, many forum postings about the Nichia 219A vs 219B differences, and several variants (yours apparently not among them) of the 219B emitter that are spec'ed at 5000K. Who knows how the 5000K figure started getting bantered around in the whole mix, I for one stand corrected regarding that figure and will stop posting it in the future.

Please accept my partial apology for the "lazy and/or uncaring" comment - it was made because many forum members of this, and the "other" flashlight forum have apparently contacted you in the past (including a close friend of mine who spoke with you on the phone personally) with you conveying the fact that L3 Illumination had, indeed, moved over to the 219B emitter long ago. This fact was never put up on your website, until the L11C became available, nor the fact that there is "old stock" in the mix with 219A emitters. This has caused a lot of confusion about these lights. I know this is not something that anyone other than overly tint snobbish folks who frequent flashlight forums would even care about, but it is, admittedly, an issue that should have been addressed by you and/or your website designer right at the start of emitter changeover. The fact that you read what is posted here, and took the time to respond to it does show, on the otherhand, that you are definitely not lazy or uncaring... so for that I apologize and thank you for clarifying details of your company's flashlight offerings. Well done! 

Just one last thing - if you are reading this... is L3 Illumination planning to ship you any more L10 twisty 4-mode Nichia 219B lights any time soon? I'd like a few more!


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## chuckhov (May 21, 2015)

I have a Rayus C01 AAA, with a emitter that was reputed to be initially a N219 4500k, but then Rayus found out that it was Not. - It was actually 5,000k, and 83 CRI. 

It seems (IIRC), that Nichia had made a mistake and supplied the wrong part.

I used to have a link for this, but that was a while ago... Anyone know what I am talking about?

Still - I see it as a Very Nice, Somewhat Cool, Neutral.

Thanks,
-Chuck


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## Amelia (May 21, 2015)

chuckhov said:


> I have a Rayus C01 AAA, with a emitter that was reputed to be initially a N219 4500k, but then Rayus found out that it was Not. - It was actually 5,000k, and 83 CRI.
> 
> It seems (IIRC), that Nichia had made a mistake and supplied the wrong part.
> 
> ...



One of the problems here is that the Nichia 219B is not a single part, but a whole family of different parts with variations in color temperature, brightness, and CRI rating (depending on the part number suffix when ordered). This causes a lot of confusion for someone who doesn't know this, and just wants a "Nichia 219" light.


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## twistedraven (May 21, 2015)

Thanks for confirmation Jason. It really does seem like a 4500k light. Nice and peachy, but very close to white, if slightly on the warm side. It really is quite a nice tint.





Gerardn3 said:


> In practice, I don't think 5000K versus 4500K would have made much of a difference for my usage, but the specs on the product page should definitely be corrected. The light quality of this Nichia makes me dream of having a thrower with a 3500K version for outdoor use. Together, a flashlight like that plus the L11C would probably cover all of my flashlight uses. While I'm at it, I'd like some household LEDs with the same kind of quality, but that's another matter... I've definitely developed a craving for more Nichia.



Sounds like maybe you want the Eagletac MX25LC3 Nichia 4500k.


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## herbicide (Jun 10, 2015)

I knocked mine off my desk the other day, and noticed that the boot has split, right on the edge, even though that's the squishiest part of the button.












Probably due to a combination of the tail scalloping and the softness of the rubber.

So, er, try not to be as unlucky as me.


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## markr6 (Jun 10, 2015)

Hmmm, I never liked that switch cover OR the switch itself.


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## ronniepudding (Jun 10, 2015)

herbicide said:


> So, er, try not to be as unlucky as me.



Have you inquired with SB to see if they'll sell you a spare boot cover?


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## herbicide (Jun 10, 2015)

Not yet. I'll drop them an email tomorrow.

Edit, 17th June -

No date was given, but they will be getting some tailcap boots from the factory.


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## turkeylord (Jul 31, 2015)

jon_slider said:


> My secret hope is to swap the L08 head innards into the Maratac


Might be a little late as it looks like Illumn sold out of them, but I did swap a 219 Preon pill into my Maratac CU AAA. :naughty:






Details: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...aratac-AAA-quot-Cu-quot&p=4445257#post4445257


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## markr6 (Aug 10, 2015)

Can anyone comment on the L10C switch vs the L11C? I found the L10C to be very loud and cheap feeling. I know that's just my opinion but I wondered if anyone noticed a difference between the models.


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## twistedraven (Aug 10, 2015)

I don't have the L10C, but the switch on my L11C is loudish and cheapish feeling to me. The biggest thing they could have done to improve the feel is make it so the actual button underneath the rubber boot is wider, but instead it's slim, and only provides firm resistance on the center of the boot.

That is my only complaint with the light. Everything else (size, finish, led, cost, performance, ui, etc) Are all excellent.


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## jon_slider (Aug 10, 2015)

maybe a McClicky upgrade?


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## markr6 (Nov 5, 2015)

I wasn't 100% happy with my L11C when I had it, but now I'm considering giving it another shot.

I'd sure like to see the Nichia 219C in this for a little extra output!


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## twistedraven (Nov 5, 2015)

I still have my L11C with Nichia, for the price it's a wonderful light. While the 4500k 219B isn't as high a temperature as I'd ideally like, it's still a very pleasing tint that makes everything look pleasantly warm. The mode spacing is perfect to my eyes, and the UI is nice and simple as well. It's my perfect EDC light.


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## jon_slider (Nov 5, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I'd sure like to see the Nichia 219C in this for a little extra output!



if brighter cooler tint suits your situation, maybe try the XP-G2 version? (its about 5800K but just 70CRI im guessing)
I also really like the 4 mode option, very versatile.

different strokes.. 
Im biased toward warm High CRI 3000K tints myself, 

fwiw, my N219a L08 is actually my brightest high CRI light.. (4400K 87CRI, actual measured values). 

The N219c is not available above 80 CRI I dont think.. brighter is a direct trade off for lower CRI imo


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 6, 2015)

twistedraven said:


> I still have my L11C with Nichia, for the price it's a wonderful light. While the 4500k 219B isn't as high a temperature as I'd ideally like, it's still a very pleasing tint that makes everything look pleasantly warm. The *mode spacing is perfect* to my eyes, and the UI is nice and simple as well. It's my perfect EDC light.
> 
> [Emphasis added.]




Agree about modes: 0.09, 3, 30, and 140 lumens for the Nichia version.

The only change I would make is to raise the "moonlight" to 0.5 lumens.

I like to carry my L11C in the bottom of my pants pocket, underneath my wallet. Makes for a comfortable EDC.


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## uofaengr (Nov 6, 2015)

markr6 said:


> I wasn't 100% happy with my L11C when I had it, but now I'm considering giving it another shot.
> 
> I'd sure like to see the Nichia 219C in this for a little extra output!


Curious what you weren't happy about? Mine doesn't get much carry right now, and I've gotten used to having larger lights on me since I need the higher output daily, but if I find myself back in the office in the next few months the L11C will be back in my pocket. If you can get by with not needing more than 130 lumens or so everyday, it really is almost the perfect EDC.


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## jon_slider (Nov 6, 2015)

heres a link to the L08 review, and the L10
note, with Eneloop batteries, they all have similar 130 lumen high with n219, and 155 lumen with XP-G2

One thing I really like about the L08-10-11c heads is that the LED is set deeper than my other aaa lights. That means the sideview does not blind me when placing the light for tailstanding on my dresser at night.

I also found the larger head works great as a light for my hammock, hanging from a ridgeline, again because it does not blind me, due to the deepset led.

I cant think of anything I do not like about these lights, except they are a bit big and heavier than some others. 

They have the lowest price I cant think of, for off the shelf N219 (there may be a Lumintop Clickie Copper Tool with N219 in the pipeline.. send me private message if youre interested in the offsite link)


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## 7tisix (Dec 19, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Agree about modes: 0.09, 3, 30, and 140 lumens for the Nichia version.
> 
> The only change I would make is to raise the "moonlight" to 0.5 lumens.
> 
> I like to carry my L11C in the bottom of my pants pocket, underneath my wallet. Makes for a comfortable EDC.



I really like the low moonlight mode at .09. When I wake up in the middle of the night, it is bright enough.


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## Kudzu (Apr 13, 2016)

How have people's lights been holding up? Any issues over time? I'm on a bit of a 219B kick, and thinking of picking up one of these for insomnia nights when I want to read a little bit …


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## markr6 (Apr 13, 2016)

Kudzu said:


> How have people's lights been holding up? Any issues over time? I'm on a bit of a 219B kick, and thinking of picking up one of these for insomnia nights when I want to read a little bit …



Holding up well. Same with my L10s. I miss the moonlight since I got the 3 mode version on all three of my lights. But since the reset time to so damn long, I don't use mine much anyway. If I'm using it at night and turn it on, then off, then need to turn it back on to check something within 6 seconds...it comes on in the next mode. Useless. If the reset time was something like 1 second, that would be perfect. 1 second should give anyone enough time to cycle thru the modes without feeling rushed. Hell, I'd even accept 2 seconds. Not 5 or 6 seconds, whatever it is.

The 219B tint on this is perfect. Whiter than white. Looks 5000K to me, but it's listed at 4500K.


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## jon_slider (Apr 13, 2016)

Kudzu said:


> How have people's lights been holding up? Any issues over time? I'm on a bit of a 219B kick, and thinking of picking up one of these for insomnia nights when I want to read a little bit …



My 4 mode w 4500k Nichia L11c is great! Slight battery rattle but I don't mind. I especially like the High mode for a car light. I intentionally got the 4 mode and would do it again. But it would not be my 1st pick for a late night low level reading light because it is a little cooler than the Lumintop Tool w 4000k n219b

one nitpick, the L11c won't quite tail stand unless I unscrew the tail cap a couple turns, because the rubber boot of the switch sticks out a little too far. I like the tailswitch better than on the copper tool, which won't tail stand. 

i prefer the stock Tool (18-3-80) because it starts on medium. But if you want one that starts on low, consider the ReyLight (0.8-16-80) TiTool version, still available afaik. The Titool will tail stand, due to the new electronic switch. There was a copper ReyLight tool recently. They show up on ebay occasionally. 

Imo the 4000k is nicer at low lumen levels than the 4500k L11c

both the stock Tool and L11c (0.09-3-30-140) share a 3 lumen mode that would probably work well for reading.


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## KeepingItLight (Apr 13, 2016)

I have not had any problems with my *L3 Illumination L11C Nichia 219B (4-mode)* flashlight. 

The tint, mode spacing, beam, switch, form factor, etc., are all excellent. 

As Jon reports, the clip protrudes a tiny bit above the rim of the tail cap. The amount is minuscule. Why did they do this?!! Mine can tail-stand, but only on smooth surfaces, and even on those, it rocks a bit.

I agree with Mark about timing. 2 seconds would be fine. 6 seconds is too long.

Nominal mode spacing on the Nichia version is 0.09, 3, 30, and 140 lumens. It's perfect.


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## markr6 (Apr 13, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> As Jon reports, the clip protrudes a tiny bit above the rim of the tail cap. The amount is minuscule. Why did they do this?!! Mine can tail-stand, but only on smooth surfaces, and even on those, it rocks a bit.



Supposedly this was fixed. I forget when, but it was certainly after I purchased mine 12/2015. I had an earlier model too and 4 seconds with a Dremel fixed it. No biggie.


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## jon_slider (Apr 13, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Supposedly this was fixed. (Protruding clip)



Actually on mine it's the rubber boot that sticks up (strangely only when ON), not the clip. I'm going to dremmel the button under the cap


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## Kudzu (Apr 13, 2016)

Thanks everyone. Definitely food for thought. 



> But since the reset time to so damn long,



That sounds like it could be a dealbreaker for how I plan to use it. Maybe it's finally time to save up for that HDS rotary … interesting lights keep coming along before I get halfway there …


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## markr6 (Apr 13, 2016)

jon_slider said:


> Actually on mine it's the rubber boot that sticks up (strangely only when ON), not the clip. I'm going to dremmel the button under the cap



I liked the rubber cover on the L10C better than the L11C. It felt more firm and had less play. Not that the L11C is bad, just comparing the two I noticed that.

Wouldn't hurt to hit that plastic switch, but I'm guessing the rubber cover will keep it's profile.


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## jon_slider (Apr 13, 2016)

markr6 said:


> plastic switch



solved!
sanded down the tip of the L11c plastic switch plunger
tailstands without the rubber cap touching the table now


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## ronniepudding (Apr 13, 2016)

markr6 said:


> I liked the rubber cover on the L10C better than the L11C. It felt more firm and had less play. Not that the L11C is bad, just comparing the two I noticed...



+1

The L11C switch boot is more 'squishy' feeling than the L10C. I too prefer the latter. At one point I took both switches apart and compared the innards, and tried swapping just the boots. My recollection is that they use subtly different components, and that the swap was not successful.


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## KeepingItLight (Apr 13, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Supposedly this was fixed. I forget when, but it was certainly after I purchased mine 12/2015. I had an earlier model too and 4 seconds with a Dremel fixed it. No biggie.




Thanks for the tip. I got no Dremel, but now I got the know-how.

Might be able to get some help with this from a friend.


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## twistedraven (Apr 14, 2016)

My L11C is still going strong with no problems, though I don't really ever use it in rough situations. Build, size, UI, tint are all excellent. My only minor complaint is still the tail-switch, which protrudes a bit too far for maximum stability while tailstanding, and is a bit too soft feeling.

The tint isn't quite as accurate as the SW57 binned 219B V1 in my Jaxman E2, but it's still damn good, and the tint consistency from hotspot to spill is the best I've seen of any light. The tint is also satisfactory for indoor use. It seems like the closest to white of any of the SW45 binned 219Bs I have used.


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## jon_slider (Apr 14, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> I got no Dremel


4-600 grit emery paper works fine by hand


twistedraven said:


> My only minor complaint is still the tail-switch, which protrudes a bit too far for maximum stability while tailstanding


mine did that too. I found I could unscrew the tailcap a turn, just for tailstanding, the light works even with it loose.
I decided to grind down the plastic pin under the rubber cap.. 
4-600 grit emery paper works fine by hand


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## Jeff S. (Apr 14, 2016)

Been following this thread for a while now. I'm getting married in a month; thinking about getting these for my groomsmen. I'm glad the L11C seems to have overcome the durability issue of its predecessor.

Do you think the L11C would be a good light for non-flashaholics? Thanks


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## 7tisix (Apr 14, 2016)

Jeff S. said:


> Been following this thread for a while now. I'm getting married in a month; thinking about getting these for my groomsmen. I'm glad the L11C seems to have overcome the durability issue of its predecessor.
> 
> Do you think the L11C would be a good light for non-flashaholics? Thanks



Yes, but they may not see the value of it unless they know lights.

I bought mine in late 2015 and I have had no problems with tail standing or anything else. Never noticed the long reset time, I guess because it's pretty easy to just cycle. It did take a hard fall in January on concrete which scored it in a few places when I slipped on some ice, but still works great. I leave mine on in firefly mode all night every night on my night stand, and kick it up to 3 lumens sometimes, and medium even less so. I change out the battery about once a month, and it still has juice.


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## GordoJones88 (Apr 14, 2016)

Jeff S. said:


> Been following this thread for a while now. I'm getting married in a month; thinking about getting these for my groomsmen. I'm glad the L11C seems to have overcome the durability issue of its predecessor.
> 
> Do you think the L11C would be a good light for non-flashaholics? Thanks



I have given out various AA/AAA lights as gifts including weddings.
I believe most of the lights have rarely left the gift box.
Being bright, functional, dependable, long-lasting is not noticeable.
It's the bling. The more bling the more gasps and appreciation.
The gunmetal L10C nichia which I like, 
was certainly not a success as it was too complicated to operate for them,
and it wasn't shiny.

Amazon has all these in various metals and tints.

Lumintop Worm AAA polished stainless silver AAA : $30 with Nichia 219 option
Thrunite Ti AAA : $26 - $38 in titanium
Olight i3E AAA : $14 plastic bubble packaging not good for gifting, needs to be put in a box, but small and shiny.


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## jon_slider (Apr 15, 2016)

Jeff S. said:


> I'm getting married in a month
> ...
> Do you think the L11C would be a good light for non-flashaholics?



Congratulations!

no, it starts on low, I especially would not give the 4 mode. otoh It is a great entry level Nichia light and AA batteries are very likely already in the household

but imo, a Lumintop Tool, which starts on Medium, would be much more practical, as it gives useful light on the first click, even if they never figure out the rest of the modes.. its very inexpensive in Aluminum, and looks really cool imo.. but it does not come in Nichia 

there is also the Singfire 348.. single mode, Nichia, tailbutton, and under $10.. low risk, high reward


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## KeepingItLight (Apr 16, 2016)

jon_slider said:


> 4-600 grit emery paper works fine by hand



So, what is the procedure? Unscrew the clip, and then sand the top of it with the 4-600 grit emery paper? I think the clip is stainless steel. Can that really be sanded away using the emery paper?


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## jon_slider (Apr 16, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> I think the clip is stainless steel. Can that really be sanded away using the emery paper?



sure, it will sand, try it 
ps, tried to send this by PM, but your box is full..


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## recDNA (Jun 7, 2016)

Anybody have any experience to share with 14500?


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## markr6 (Jun 7, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Anybody have any experience to share with 14500?



Only tried it briefly since the battery was really crammed in there. I was worried about damaging the threads so I decided I wouldn't use 14500. Maybe an unprotected would fit nicely.


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## turkeylord (Jun 7, 2016)

Here's my experience with the L10, not sure how much has changed...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...0-Nichia-219&p=4123011&viewfull=1#post4123011


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## MichaelW (Jun 10, 2016)

Did they upgrade to the Cree xp-l HI yet?


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## wolfgaze (Jun 12, 2016)

Has anyone ever posted beamshots of the L11C with the N219B emitter? Would love to see an outdoor shot against some foliage... 

Can someone describe the beam profile for me as it relates to the hotspot & spill? Is there a diffused hotspot, by that I mean does it blend smoothly into the spill, or is there a sharp contrast between hotspot & the spill (which I find distracting)? Thanks!


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## twistedraven (Jun 12, 2016)

The hotspot is diffused rather well into the spill. 

I've never gotten around to taking pics of it outside, but here's an indoors one vs various other lights.







From left to right: Zebralight SC600 MKIII Cool white, Jaxman E2 Neutral white, Zebralight SC62D Neutral white, L11C Neutral white, Zebralight H600FD neutral white.


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## wolfgaze (Jun 12, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> The hotspot is diffused rather well into the spill.



Appreciate the response. Thanks!


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## ronniepudding (Jun 13, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> The hotspot is diffused rather well into the spill.



+1, the L11C has a small diameter, shallow, orange-peel textured reflector, so it's on the floody side with a diffused hotspot. I've tried to take a few pictures in comparison with a Fenix LD10... sorry, they're not the best quality.

LD10 against white wall:




L11C against white wall:




LD10 outdoor beam shot:




L11C outdoor beam shot:


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## wolfgaze (Jun 13, 2016)

The beamshots were very helpful... Thanks Ronnie!


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## lyyyghtey (Jul 24, 2016)

I notice that all 6 versions of the Nichia L11C have been out of stock for awhile. :thinking:


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## eraursls1984 (Jul 24, 2016)

lyyyghtey said:


> I notice that all 6 versions of the Nichia L11C have been out of stock for awhile. :thinking:


Only one of the six is out of stock. The NA HA 4 mode is the only one out of stock.


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## lyyyghtey (Jul 24, 2016)

eraursls1984 said:


> Only one of the six is out of stock. The NA HA 4 mode is the only one out of stock.



Thank you, it's probably a browser issue on my end then. :shrug:


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## Repsol600rr (Jul 24, 2016)

I just did a brief read of this thread and want to say I killed an L11c with a 2 ft drop onto a driveway. Wouldn't light after that and just got very hot. That was its first drop. I've bought another soon after but never really trusted it for carry. Only gets occaisonal use around the house.


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## jon_slider (Jul 25, 2016)

Repsol600rr said:


> I killed an L11c with a 2 ft drop onto a driveway.



sorry for your loss

I have not dropped mine. It is still my favorite N219 AA light. I really like my Orange 4 mode version, super flexible options for my needs. It is still in stock afaict. This is the lowest price, lightest weight 90+ High CRI single AA light I know of.

weight with AA Eneloop 54 grams (empty weight is 29g, not he 20g listed on the website)





beams on Printer paper, Copper Tool N219 4000k, L11c w N219 4500k, Copper Maratac w 6000k XP-G2


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## markr6 (Jul 25, 2016)

It sure is hard to beat. A shorter reset time would make it nearly perfect. 6-7 seconds is way too long. Yes, I'm a broken record on that subject


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## Wendee (Jul 25, 2016)

Repsol600rr said:


> I just did a brief read of this thread and want to say I killed an L11c with a 2 ft drop onto a driveway. Wouldn't light after that and just got very hot. That was its first drop. I've bought another soon after but never really trusted it for carry. Only gets occaisonal use around the house.



Yikes. Sorry that happened to you.  
I bought a "backup" L11C just in case something happened to my original one (or in case they discontinue it). It's still my favourite AA flashlight. I only use mine in the house and after reading your post I won't ever carry mine outside. They do seem somewhat "delicate" (for lack of a better word). For the price this light really can't be beat but like you, I'll be careful with mine. I guess you really like the flashlight too because you bought another one.


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## wolfgaze (Jul 25, 2016)

I'd gladly pay $50 for a light with performance like this, but with a much better build quality...


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## staticx57 (Jul 25, 2016)

Can confirn, do not drop it onto a hard surface, mine is dead now. Ill have to open it up and see what went wrong


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## Wendee (Jul 25, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> I'd gladly pay $50 for a light with performance like this, but with a much better build quality...


I found a similar light. PM sent so I don't take this thread off topic. 



staticx57 said:


> Can confirn, do not drop it onto a hard surface, mine is dead now. Ill have to open it up and see what went wrong


Oh boy. That's a shame! I'm sorry that happened to your L11C. :sigh:

I wonder what's going on with the L11C lately. That's two people in the past week. Yikes.


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## staticx57 (Jul 25, 2016)

Something in there shorted. It gets warm to the touch now even though the LED doesnt light.

perhaps I'll see if there is any kind of warranty on it. Mine hit some bathroom tile from about 3 feet. Plan B is to open it no see if there is anything obvious. Plan C is to replace the driver.


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## Repsol600rr (Jul 25, 2016)

Yeah that sounds exactly like what happened to mine then. I intended it to replace my microstream as a primary edc but after that I kept looking. Ended up with my SC52d and haven't looked back since. Has been dropped and otherwise beat up with the nicks to prove it but it works like a charm. I do miss the tint on the L11c but the d tint on zebra is really pleasing to my eye as well. FWIW mine wasn't this week. I killed mine last september. I was just a lurker then. I do really like it, I just don't trust it. Current one is a 4 mode orange.


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## lyyyghtey (Jul 26, 2016)

Repsol600rr said:


> Yeah that sounds exactly like what happened to mine then. I intended it to replace my microstream as a primary edc but after that I kept looking. Ended up with my SC52d and haven't looked back since. Has been dropped and otherwise beat up with the nicks to prove it but it works like a charm. I do miss the tint on the L11c but the d tint on zebra is really pleasing to my eye as well. FWIW mine wasn't this week. I killed mine last september. I was just a lurker then. I do really like it, I just don't trust it. Current one is a 4 mode orange.



Yes I agree from experience that Zebralights seem to be pretty rugged. But...

I killed two L10s back in the day and my brother killed his, all by short (2~3 foot), seemingly inconsequential drops. One being onto a wood floor from 2 feet.

I have never had any other light die irrecoverably from a fall, and since I'm tall and use my lights at work frequently, 4 foot drops onto all sorts of surfaces are common. A friend killed his Fenix... with a 10 foot drop onto concrete! I dare say this kind of failure from 2 feet up is pretty much unheard of with most lights.

It's disheartening to hear two reports of this same failure in a supposedly "fixed" release. And they didn't reduce the reset time to something reasonable, even though many requested it. It's as though they just didn't care, re-releasing it with no actual revision.

I was in fact getting ready to grab an L11C while they're still available, but now I probably won't. Sad.


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## markr6 (Jul 26, 2016)

Is this one made by Acebeam too? Or just the twisty model (L10)?


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## jon_slider (Jul 26, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Is this one made by Acebeam too? Or just the twisty model (L10)?



I did not know that, thanks for helping solve a puzzle
http://www.acebeam.com/mini-flashlight
the acebeam version of the L10 has strobe, the SBFlashlights version does not. The acebeam version does not offer Nichia afaict
the L11c is not on the Acebeam site, but I dont doubt it was made by them.

My guess is Acebeam does make them both, on contract for SBF aka L3 Illumination, to their requested configuration (Nichia with no strobe)

it seems quite common that various vendors use Chinese manufacturers to make exclusive configurations. eg i've noted similarities between Maratac, and Prometheus Beta, to Lumintop Tool and Worm, respectively.

I still have not dropped my L11c and like it very much. But if I wanted a drop proof light AA light, I would be looking at Zebralight SC5. I just wish they would offer 90+ CRI Nichia 219b. Another drop proof AA option is Malkoff, I just wish they did not use PWM and offered Nichia also.

somebody build a drop proof, no PWM, 90+ CRI single AA please 

I wonder if there is a way to pot an L11c after the fact, so it can survive dropping.


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## gunga (Jul 26, 2016)

The custom firefly (small run AA Ti) is single AA 90+ cri. I have drop tested the light and it survived.


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## markr6 (Jul 26, 2016)

jon_slider said:


> My guess is Acebeam does make them both, on contract for SBF aka L3 Illumination, to their requested configuration (Nichia with no strobe)



I'm pretty sure Craig puts the Nichia in. I remember people complaining about the off centered LEDs and him mentioning using something to help center them on future models. I forgot about the strobe though. Sounds like Acebeam would handle that.

I'm carrying my L11C today. Great light. Loud switch. Not bomb proof but it's so slim and compact you can't expect much.


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## Repsol600rr (Jul 26, 2016)

jon_slider said:


> I did not know that, thanks for helping solve a puzzle
> http://www.acebeam.com/mini-flashlight
> the acebeam version of the L10 has strobe, the SBFlashlights version does not. The acebeam version does not offer Nichia afaict
> the L11c is not on the Acebeam site, but I dont doubt it was made by them.
> ...



If they built that I'd buy a couple. It's the only light I've managed to kill. My edc gear doesn't get abused (well not too much) but all my edc lights, knives, and multitools have their fair share of battle scars. Dropping is just an ordinary life situation a light should be able to survive. While they're at it I'd buy a couple aaa versions as well.


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## wolfgaze (Jul 26, 2016)

jon_slider said:


> *-But if I wanted a drop proof light AA light, I would be looking at Zebralight SC5. I just wish they would offer 90+ CRI Nichia 219b.
> 
> -Somebody build a drop proof, no PWM, 90+ CRI single AA please*



Yes please!


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## lyyyghtey (Jul 26, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Yes please!



Yes, and I'll add a vote for a AAA clicky Nichia (W/L11C UI but shorter reset) as well!

Has anyone been able to tell what dies in these lights? Potting is an interesting idea. I've emitter swapped a couple L10s (which didn't kill them) and I've taken apart my two that died, but no obvious failure mode was visible.


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## staticx57 (Jul 26, 2016)

Now to find it a new heart. Happy to say the LED still works fine when connected directly to a CR123A. Driver is 13.5 mm anyone know of a replacement lol.


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## KeepingItLight (Jul 27, 2016)

gunga said:


> The custom firefly (small run AA Ti) is single AA 90+ cri. * I have drop tested the light* and it survived.




Yeah, I have drop-tested a lot of my flashlights, but I never do it intentionally!


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## Drift Monkey (Jul 27, 2016)

staticx57 said:


> Now to find it a new heart. Happy to say the LED still works fine when connected directly to a CR123A. Driver is 13.5 mm anyone know of a replacement lol.



Maybe MTN-12DD or MTN-SLdd?


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## staticx57 (Jul 27, 2016)

Drift Monkey said:


> Maybe MTN-12DD or MTN-SLdd?



Oh! Both of those look very interesting. I'll have to email and see if they will fit.


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## jon_slider (Jul 27, 2016)

Drift Monkey said:


> Maybe MTN-12DD or MTN-SLdd?


thanks for providing links, they say:
"This driver features fast PWM"

fwiw, the L11c has a NO PWM driver.


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## Drift Monkey (Jul 27, 2016)

staticx57 said:


> Oh! Both of those look very interesting. I'll have to email and see if they will fit.



Yeah, Richard will def know better than me! :thumbsup:


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## staticx57 (Aug 1, 2016)

Drift Monkey said:


> Yeah, Richard will def know better than me! :thumbsup:



Heard back from Richard. He suggested it might fit with the tabs left on. Ordered one and now we wait. First L11C with guppydrv?

he also suggested clearing off the driver board now and using it as a piggyback for a much smaller 10mm driver. What to do with an extra 12mm if that one doesnt work? :devil:


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## Wendee (Aug 1, 2016)

This will be interesting! I hope you keep us updated staticx57


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## staticx57 (Aug 10, 2016)

So a driver I ordered on Kaidomain arrived here before the mountain electronics driver. I could not resist soldering it in. The driver fits so well I did not solder it to the body so it is in there with friction. This driver is high>med>low>strobe>SOS


AND IT LIVES AGAIN


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## Wendee (Aug 10, 2016)

staticx57 said:


> So a driver I ordered on Kaidomain arrived here before the mountain electronics driver. I could not resist soldering it in. The driver fits so well I did not solder it to the body so it is in there with friction. This driver is high>med>low>strobe>SOS
> 
> 
> AND IT LIVES AGAIN[/video]



Yay!  That' so great! 

Do you know what the output levels are now? 

PS: I couldn't get the YouTube video to play. Is it set to "public" or "private"? It' probably just my computer, anyways.


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## staticx57 (Aug 11, 2016)

Wendee said:


> Yay!  That' so great!
> 
> Do you know what the output levels are now?
> 
> PS: I couldn't get the YouTube video to play. Is it set to "public" or "private"? It' probably just my computer, anyways.



Video should work now! Anyways, the outputs are VERY similar to my L08 which has a 219a and is a AAA minus the fact it does not have a moonlight mode. Max brightness is about the same across all my AA and AAA nichia lights. although the low is not that low, not close to a moonlight.

Still wondering if I should swap in the mountain electronics driver (if it ends up fitting) since it is so much more feature rich and advanced but it switches it from a AA only to a 14500 only light.

Also should note, put this in front of my camera and it has PWM (not noticeable to my eyes but there) in med and low. Good, cheap and effective way to resurrect an L11c, L10, L08 but this is not an advanced driver.


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## jon_slider (Aug 11, 2016)

staticx57 said:


> put this in front of my camera and it has PWM


were you not aware that the driver was PWM based beforehand?
I understand Richards drivers are also PWM based ("fast" pwm but still). Please correct me if mistaken

besides my iPhone PWM detection, I also wave my lights to make sure there is no PWM
As you likely know, but others may not, PWM is usually never on the maximum mode, only on dimmed levels
unfortunately some of the most popular brands of lights still rely on PWM (listed in my signature link), 
the L11c, current run of Lumintop Tool, Worm, and Maratac being notable exceptions

thanks for sharing your research, I hope you find a NoPWM driver (if that is as important to you as it is to me)


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## staticx57 (Aug 11, 2016)

jon_slider said:


> were you not aware that the driver was PWM based beforehand?
> I understand Richards drivers are also PWM based ("fast" pwm but still). Please correct me if mistaken
> 
> besides my iPhone PWM detection, I also wave my lights to make sure there is no PWM
> ...




While given the price and the origin it would be a good guess that it would have PWM although it was not explicitly stated. 

Yes, I am aware of the MTN electronics family of FET drivers, of which the one I ordered, as having PWM. As for this light having PWM now, it was more important that the light have a working driver than not have PWM. This PWM is a high enough frequency that it visually doesn't bother me, but it does buzz a bit. It is also a $3.39 driver, not expecting miracles here. That being said, the mountain electronics driver has a much higher frequency PWM and should be better.


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## Wendee (Aug 11, 2016)

Do you have another flashlight that you could use the Mountain Electronics driver in? If not, why not put it in the L11C to see what it's like? It sounds like it would make for a pretty cool little flashlight 

Good job bringing your L11C back to life! I'll bet you're pretty happy. I know I would be. 

If you put the Mountain Electronics driver in, can you update this thread? I'm so curious now.


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## staticx57 (Aug 11, 2016)

Probably should have posted this before, but here is what it looks like driver swapped. That post in the middle is too long and would have to be grinded down a little bit for it to tighten all the way.

Also, no don't have anything pressing that needs a 12mm driver, but who knows, could be the start of another cool build. Ill try and fit it in this light first. Knowing I have a good backup driver for it. Of course I will update.


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## staticx57 (Aug 21, 2016)

Well bad news, the MTN Electronics 12mm driver is simply too small. The chinese driver in there now is what will have to stay as it is the only one that fits other than a new factory driver but those suck.


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## iamlucky13 (Dec 20, 2016)

It seems this thread has largely died out since it was confirmed the durability issues aren't entirely fixed.

After searching for far longer than it's worth for an alternative 1 x AA, high CRI budget clicky light, I decided to just take my chances on the L11C. I just ordered a natural tone 4-mode.

I decided to go with a conventional cylindrical cell light, and constant current driver instead of the Nitecore Tip.


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## tops2 (Dec 20, 2016)

iamlucky13 said:


> It seems this thread has largely died out since it was confirmed the durability issues aren't entirely fixed.
> 
> After searching for far longer than it's worth for an alternative 1 x AA, high CRI budget clicky light, I decided to just take my chances on the L11C. I just ordered a natural tone 4-mode.
> 
> I decided to go with a conventional cylindrical cell light, and constant current driver instead of the Nitecore Tip.



I mentioned in another thread, I forgot the Jaxman E3 exists. There's a cool white and warm/neutral version when you order directly from Jaxman on AliExpress.


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