# is the liteflux lf3 xt already out?



## Splunk_Au (Oct 18, 2008)

i was browsing another forum and notice some have the lf3xt already, where can i get them? how much?
http://light-reviews.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=191


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## Illumination (Oct 18, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> i was browsing another forum and notice some have the lf3xt already, where can i get them? how much?
> http://light-reviews.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=191



Looks awesome!


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## Splunk_Au (Oct 19, 2008)

which online store carry these? i tried looking on 4sevens, batteryjunction, lighthound all didnt return any results.


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## Kilovolt (Oct 19, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> which online store carry these? i tried looking on 4sevens, batteryjunction, lighthound all didnt return any results.


 
The best solution IMO is to ask LEDCool. 

*Khoo, are you there??*
**


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## regulator (Oct 19, 2008)

The new LF3 looks really nice. I like the simple basic design with a touch a knurling. Interesting.


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## Gatsby (Oct 19, 2008)

I'm very encouraged by the possibilities this light represents! I REALLY like the appearance - sort of a Novatac meets EX10 meets Jil. Very clean and functional.

Particularly if they redesign the LF5XT bodies to be consistent with this new look they'll have a killer light. It seems to fix some of the issues that the LF5XT had including the losing connection when tailstanding, a really low low (an absolutely essential function for me...), an optional easier to use UI, no sharp bezel, clean design... 

I hesitated on the LF5XT due to the appearance mostly - and the low not really being low enough. 

This light may finally represent a light small enough and still functional enough to replace my Novatac as my preferred EDC - a light I love but for the too big for CR123 battery size (although it has nothing on an L1 in that regard!). 

This one sure deserves this:   

ETA: I took a look at the operation manual. I saw only one tweak I'd make to the UI - the compact user interface is pretty cool, but no memorty mode option. So either have one user selectable option in the compact mode, turn memory on or off, or in the full UI mode have one mode that is 3 mode toggle based (with memory option) rather than all of them being sequential mode switching.


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## orcinus (Oct 19, 2008)

The old LF3XT thread (for reference):
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/207996


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## Gatsby (Oct 20, 2008)

I'm sort of surprised this new light isn't drawing more attention than it is... 

It looks really promising although the prototype referenced in the review obviously had some QC issues with the reflector, but supposedly that is being addressed.

When the LF5XT was in schematic stage on a chinese sight there was a lot of buzz - and this light seems to be a significant upgrade in a number of respects.


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## Thujone (Oct 20, 2008)

I am guessing that once there is a writeup by Khoo the excitement will surge. I certainly am excited... Quite excited..


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## Gatsby (Oct 20, 2008)

Maybe the mods will merge the older and this thread into one LF3XT thread.

I wonder if Khoo will read these and be considering any feedback on the UI features? LF has in the past been pretty responsive to CPF comments and feedback so it would be cool to provide some before the light gets too far into production.


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## Burgess (Oct 20, 2008)

oh, Wow !


*Another* nice LiteFlux flashlight ! 





Really love my LF5XT. :kiss:


How about a 2AA version ?


_


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## orcinus (Oct 20, 2008)

According to this:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/207996

... a 2xAA version is in the works as well.


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## baterija (Oct 20, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> I wonder if Khoo will read these and be considering any feedback on the UI features? LF has in the past been pretty responsive to CPF comments and feedback so it would be cool to provide some before the light gets too far into production.



Looking through the manual for the LF3XT it looks like they already have modified some things in the UI. A couple tweaks to the LF5XT UI and they included a Smart PD style simplified interface. Whether changes make it into the UI for the first run I would be surprised if they don't continue modifying things based on feedback.

Very interesting indeed.


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## LEDdicted (Nov 5, 2008)

I found some info here on the LF3XT. (translated page) Looks like we should be hearing from Khoo very soon regarding this light!
It is a little fatter than I would have hoped for at 23mm. I am looking forward to some reviews soon.


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 5, 2008)

That looks good. I also liked the LF5XT, but I wish it had a way to easily reset the levels back to the default. The HDS / Novatac is also complicated but it can be reset to the default levels relatively easily. If that feature were added to the LF5XT, I'd like it even better than the new LF3XT. The default levels of the LF5XTwere well thought, out like the HDS / Novatac. Even if I did finally get how to program it, I'd probably just leave LF5XT on its default level like I did with my HDS / Novatac.


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## Illumination (Nov 6, 2008)

Any update on release time and whether it is available anywhere?

I PMd Led Cool a few weeks ago but didn't hear back.


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## Gatsby (Nov 11, 2008)

I keep holding off on some other potential purchases based on the promise of this light - it appears to be moving rather slowly down the production pipeline, however... 

Does anyone know anything about potential release date/time?


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## torpeau (Nov 13, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> Does anyone know anything about potential release date/time?



I just e-mailed Khoo. I sure don't need another light, but that doesn't stop me from ordering.


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## Splunk_Au (Nov 13, 2008)

A review was just posted at http://light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf3_xt/


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## Thujone (Nov 13, 2008)

Impatiently awaiting its announcement...


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## BabyDoc (Nov 13, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> A review was just posted at http://light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf3_xt/


 
I wonder where light-reviews got the light. They sure gave this a high rating, 9.5 on their value scale. That is about the highest rating they have given for a light. I can't wait until the US distributer, EliteLed.com gets them. They have a picture of one on their website now, with a note, "coming soon".


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## glockboy (Nov 13, 2008)

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=186314


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## BabyDoc (Nov 13, 2008)

glockboy said:


> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=186314


 

The XT is the new version of the LF3. That's why this guy is probably getting rid of his old light.


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 13, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> A review was just posted at http://light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf3_xt/


That does not look like an R2. Am I wrong?


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## regulator (Nov 13, 2008)

Looking good. I hope they offer it in natural HAIII as well. Nice review.


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## LED Cool (Nov 13, 2008)

i will put up a LF3XT sales thread over the week end. shipping next week.

thanks.
khoo


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## Gatsby (Nov 13, 2008)

Well that is good news Khoo!!!

I have to say that it contains just about everything I could want - the only possible, very minor issue would be either the option of a memory mode in the "simplified" user interface - or the simplified user interface "toggle" capability in the "full" user interface which as I understand it requires you to step through whatever modes you have programmed (but does have a memory option) rather than toggling between settings.

Still it seems like an excellent EDC light. I'd love to see some size pictures compared to a Novatac 120 and the EX10.


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## antc_tw2002 (Nov 13, 2008)

*LFxx Family*

Here are some pics of my *LFx family*
























































Thanks for your looking!


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## Gatsby (Nov 13, 2008)

*Re: LFxx Family*

Excellent photos! Since I've owned an LF5 and still have my LF2 that is a helpful set of pictures. An impressively small difference between the LF3 and the LF3XT given the addition of a switch.


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## Blindasabat (Nov 13, 2008)

*LiteFlux LF3 XT review*

I've been waiting for this. It fixes three of the four things I saw wrong with the LF5: It is CR123/16340, it has a simpler UI but is still programmable, and it has a lower low. 
Now if they could just fix that 0.4 second delay it would be a Novatac competitor.

And offer a Neutral tint version of: 3B, 3C, 4B, 4C, 5B, 5C bin. A&C letter tints are on the wrong side of the planckian (sp?) line.


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 13, 2008)

I like the price of new light. The new compact user interface sounds like a great addition.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 13, 2008)

If this light is priced at $50, it is going to blow the EX10, away. Actually, it reminds me a lot of the EX10 in its appearance and simple UI option with instant highs and lows, and ramping ability. Its programmability reminds me of the p120, but it is in a more user friendly size. We have a hybrid EX10/p120 fora price less than either light. WOW!


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## Gatsby (Nov 13, 2008)

The review stated it was $62, which still seems quite fair for the features - and I can testify that the Liteflux lights I've owned have been quite nicely manufactured.


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## clintb (Nov 13, 2008)

I'll be in for one of these to compliment my LF2x and 2 x LF5XT. If it comes in black and natural, make it two!


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## Splunk_Au (Nov 13, 2008)

Art Vandelay said:


> That does not look like an R2. Am I wrong?


 
How can we tell if it's an R2 or some other one?


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 13, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> How can we tell if it's an R2 or some other one?


The lens or the light reflecting off the lens on the R2 seems a little more yellow than the lens on the slightly clearer Q5 lens. On a white wall, the R2 has a little more yellow, a slightly warmer color.


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## litetube (Nov 13, 2008)

I may have missed this in this thread, but is this a "clickie" switch or a Piston switch? Sure looks like a EX10 type piston with a spring in it? anyone know?


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## matrixshaman (Nov 13, 2008)

I saw somewhere that it is a Q5 Cree. And the switch I'm sure is like the LF5XT - not the same as the EX10 but similar in many ways - just not the actual piston style. The way it functions is a little different than the EX10's button and if it's like the LF5XT it has a metal button that is amazingly smooth.


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## LED Cool (Nov 14, 2008)

Art Vandelay,
factory reset is the same for both LF5XT & LF3XT.

antc_tw2002,
great pics! excellent photos skills!

Blindasabat,
AFAIK, the LF3XT has NO DELAY only when switching on.
hope this will convert those who are on the fence.

the 0.4 seconds delay is still present when changing modes/output and when switching OFF. this delay is necessary in order for the MCU to recognize user input intention and determine the correct response.

regulator & clintb,

only black is available. i also would like natural too but .... :shrug:

litetube,

the LF3XT has a clickie. BUT it is not a mechanical clickie but an electronic clickie switch like the buttons on a mobile phone.

khoo


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## LED Cool (Nov 14, 2008)

the min/max output toggle feature in the compact user interface (CUI) is really neat and convenient. everytime you switch on the LF3XT, it is always at the default user mode of 50% output. lets say you ramp it down to 20% for close range usage, then you do a 1C + PH for max blast to check out a distant noise. to get back to your close range usage, just do a 1C + PH and your user mode of 20% output is back again. no ramping is necessary. this toggle feature saves you time. please note that the 20% output is NOT save when the light is turn off.

if you do not like ramping up and down, just use the LF3XT as a simple 3 output (min, 50% & max) EDC light with direct access to all 3 output. no cycling through each output.


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## baterija (Nov 14, 2008)

Slight tweaks to a UI I already loved with the CUI tacked on as an option. Pretty sweet. :twothumbs

I'd be very interested in a controlled tint model. I'd like a programmable choice to memorize user mode in the CUI. For now it's a potentially neat update to the UI in a new form factor. Liteflux hasn't stood still. They have to have something to work on next. 

Can't wait to hear how .2% looks against the 1% min of the LF5XT.


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## NetKidz (Nov 14, 2008)

LED Cool said:


> AFAIK, the LF3XT has NO DELAY only when switching on.
> hope this will convert those who are on the fence.
> 
> the 0.4 seconds delay is still present when changing modes/output and when switching OFF. this delay is necessary in order for the MCU to recognize user input intention and determine the correct response.


Yes. When it's in OFF state. Any press or any sequence will turn ON the light immediately if the tatical signal mode is OFF. (LF5XT will have 0.4s delay).

BTW, LF3XT changed to 0.3s for C and 0.5s for PH. 



LED Cool said:


> the min/max output toggle feature in the compact user interface (CUI) is really neat and convenient. everytime you switch on the LF3XT, it is always at the default user mode of 50% output. lets say you ramp it down to 20% for close range usage, then you do a 1C + PH for max blast to check out a distant noise. to get back to your close range usage, just do a 1C + PH and your user mode of 20% output is back again. no ramping is necessary. this toggle feature saves you time. please note that the 20% output is NOT save when the light is turn off.


 
No. It'll be saved. 

There're three point in CUI: (adjuestable user mode, 0.2% and 100%)
1. When you turn on the light, it'll always turn on at User mode.
2. 2xC will toggle 0.2% and User mode
3. 1xC+PH will toggle 100% and User mode

Ramping up/down from shortcut 0.2% and 100% will not be saved.
Here's the example:

Ex1:
1. 1xC: turn on at user mode (default 50%)
2. 2xC: jump to 0.2% (That's the shortcut)
3. PH: ramp up. (let's assume stop at 20%) <- ramp up at shortcut 0.2%
4. 1xC: turn OFF
5. 1xC: turn ON. It'll be at user mode which is 50%
You'll say, IT'S NOT SAVED, right? 

Ex2:
1. 1xC: turn on at user mode (default 50%)
2. 2xC: jump to 0.2%, and another 2xC will jump back to user mode which is 50%. (test for toggle)
3. PH will ramp up. release and another PH will ramp down, let's go to 0.2%. (You're ramp up/down at user mode)
4. PH: ramp up. (let's assume stop at 20%) <- ramp up at user mode
5. 1xC: turn OFF
6. 1xC: turn ON at user mode which was changed to 20%.
Yes. It's SAVED.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 14, 2008)

Is there any news on the 2AA light?

The LF3XT looks awesome and it has nearly persuaded me to break my golden rule of only buying AA lights!

Thanks Lightflux for servicing the needs of true flashaholics everywhere:twothumbs


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## litetube (Nov 14, 2008)

Also may have been discussed,

Battery compatibility? can it handle 4.2V of a RCR?


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## regulator (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks LEDCool and NetKidz. 

NetKidz, thanks for the clarification, I think that the ability to save and come on at the User defined output is an extremely important and a great feature of this light.


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## Gatsby (Nov 14, 2008)

regulator said:


> Thanks LEDCool and NetKidz.
> 
> NetKidz, thanks for the clarification, I think that the ability to save and come on at the User defined output is an extremely important and a great feature of this light.



Yes - that basically fixed the one thing that has held me back from the EX10 was the erasing of the user level when you go to max or min. Ideally I'd like the option to not only remember that but also remember the last level (i.e. Novatac style memory mode option) but can live without that as long as I can set the user level to whatever I use most and toggle to min or max easily. 

And you still have the full blown 1-5 levels of whatever you want option in the fully programmable mode. Pretty cool.

Now if they update the LF5XT with this new body style (knurling and crenelations) as well as the same UI ... holy guacamole what a home run!

Heck I'd LOVE to see CR2, CR123 and AA forms of this same basic light (particularly if you could have one head with a CR2 or AA body) like the old LFX series... 

But for now this sure likes a contender for EDC that may supplant both my CR2 based lights and augment my Novatac.


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## litetube (Nov 14, 2008)

Why do you suppose the Lf3xt is a bit more heavy than the NC Ex10? about 20g or so? If it's because they used thicker more robust walls for the light I am definitley gonna go with a LF3Xt

Wondering why in the review the output on the NC is given a higher rating? The Lf3 Xt has briter output/Lux? The LF3 does have a bit shorter runtime to 50% is that why?


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## clintb (Nov 14, 2008)

With the recent input from LedCool and NetKidz, I'm thinking this will be my EDC of choice. Talk about flexibility!


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## NetKidz (Nov 14, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> Is there any news on the 2AA light?


There will be a 2AA tube for LF3XT.  



litetube said:


> Also may have been discussed,
> Battery compatibility? can it handle 4.2V of a RCR?


 
No problem for RCR123. 

Since the voltage range of 2AA and LiFePO4 are overlaped, LF3XT's battery over-discharge protection changed to manual selection of battery type as follow:
1. protection OFF
2. RCR123/16340 Li-ion: 3.0v warning, 2.8v shutdown.
3. LiFePO4: 2.7v warning, 2.5v shutdown.
4. 2AA NiMH: 2.0v warning, 1.8v shutdown.

I think that's great for LiFePO4 users. :thumbsup:


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## wingnutLP (Nov 15, 2008)

NetKidz said:


> There will be a 2AA tube for LF3XT.


:twothumbs SWEET I will buy one as soon as the thread appears!!


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## juplin (Nov 15, 2008)

Some photos of LF3XT

Two brothers 
NiteCore EX10 on left, and Liteflux LF3XT on right





Though similar in appearance and almost same in user interface, when Liteflux LF3XT is set to Compact User Interface, LF3XT gets advantages over EX10 in memorized user mode, better tactile feedback switch, over-discharge protection for rechargeable battery, and the ability of access to the Full-function User Interface. 

Lineup of some flashlights with CR123A form factor




From left to right: Fenix P2D, AKORay K-109, NiteCore EX10, Liteflux LF3XT, Liteflux LF3, and Jetbeam Jet2 MK3

Close-up for the reflector and LED of Liteflux LF3XT


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## litetube (Nov 15, 2008)

Thank You Juplin. Exactly the kind of photo I was hoping for :twothumbs

Which one in you opinion Ex10 or LF3Xt has more of a chance of accidental activation when in your pocket? Just wondering if the EX10 is more "recessed" in the switch area or if they are about the same?

Is the LF3XT brighter than the EX10 on high in your opinion? Does it feel more "robust" than the EX10?


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## torpeau (Nov 15, 2008)

juplin said:


> From left to right: Fenix P2D, AKORay K-109, NiteCore EX10, Liteflux LF3XT, Liteflux LF3, and Jetbeam Jet2 MK3



Hmmm, your P2D is the shortest, but mine is taller than my EX10. Looks like yours has a shorter front section.


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## juplin (Nov 15, 2008)

litetube said:


> Which one in you opinion Ex10 or LF3Xt has more of a chance of accidental activation when in your pocket? Just wondering if the EX10 is more "recessed" in the switch area or if they are about the same?
> 
> Is the LF3XT brighter than the EX10 on high in your opinion? Does it feel more "robust" than the EX10?


Both LF3XT and EX10 can be locked out, that is, after the head has been rotated counterclockwise for half of a turn, both flashlights will avoid to be accidentally activated when put in the pocket.

IMO, the brightness of LF3XT is similar to that of EX10 by rough ceiling bounce back test in small room.
Light-Reviews.com should have some comparative Lux readings for both flashlights.

And for the robustness, I am also wating for the brutal tests performed by someone. :laughing:


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## Blindasabat (Nov 15, 2008)

I noticed that too. My P2D is taller than that.


torpeau said:


> Hmmm, your P2D is the shortest, but mine is taller than my EX10. Looks like yours has a shorter front section.


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## juplin (Nov 15, 2008)

torpeau said:


> Hmmm, your P2D is the shortest, but mine is taller than my EX10. Looks like yours has a shorter front section.


My fault :mecry: . It's the head only with reflector.
I forgot to install the functional head with both reflector and circuit board.

[Edit] The photo of lineup for CR123A flashlights has been updated.


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## litetube (Nov 15, 2008)

Thanx for responding Juplin. What I meant as far as "robust" was, does the LF3Xt seem to have thicker aluminum walls? smooth threads and a solid feel to it? 
They seem to have gone with very thin aluminum on the NC ex10 to save weight .


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## juplin (Nov 15, 2008)

litetube said:


> Thanx for responding Juplin. What I meant as far as "robust" was, does the LF3Xt seem to have thicker aluminum walls? smooth threads and a solid feel to it?
> They seem to have gone with very thin aluminum on the NC ex10 to save weight .


I will post additional photos of LF3XT and EX10 with respect to the aluminum walls, threads and some other portions. 

[Edit]
To add some photos:

Aluminum walls -- EX10 on left, and LF3XT on right




The aluminum wall of the tube of EX10 is definitely thinner than that of LF3XT.
IMO, the front (threaded) portion of the tube of EX10 is the most vulnerable region during unloading/ loading of battery.

Threads -- EX10 on left, and LF3XT on right




The threads of LF3XT are finer than those of EX10. However, the threads of both flashlights are anodized and reliable. Screwing/ unscrewing of the head and tube for both flashlights is equally smooth.
And, continuing on the topic of the thickness of aluminum wall of the corresponding portions, i.e. the most vulnerable portions of these two flashlights, I manage to measure the thicknesses of those portion. (It's hard to take pictures with one hand to meaure and the other hand to hold camera.)
Thickness of LF3XT





Thickness of EX10





Knurling -- LF5XT on top, LF3XT on middle, and EX10 on bottom




The knurling of LF3XT is more aggressive than that of LF5XT, and is similar to that of EX10.
More specifically, the knurling of the head portion of LF3XT is as aggressive as that of EX10, but the knurling of the tube portion of LF3XT is less aggressive than that of EX10, though is more aggressive than that of LF5XT.


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## litetube (Nov 15, 2008)

Wow!! Great addt'l photos Juplin. Very high quality images and good useful descriptions. :twothumbsHave you considered becoming a flashlight reviewer?:thinking:

Very


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## BabyDoc (Nov 15, 2008)

NetKidz said:


> Yes. When it's in OFF state. Any press or any sequence will turn ON the light immediately if the tatical signal mode is OFF. (LF5XT will have 0.4s delay).
> 
> BTW, LF3XT changed to 0.3s for C and 0.5s for PH.
> 
> ...


 

I am a bit confused by these examples. Say you have ramped in the user mode to a 20 percent level. You turn the light off and on and you are now at 20 percent, because your 20 percent level WAS saved. You now do a short cut to 100 percent. Now turn the light off. When you turn the light back on, where are you? At 100 percent, 20 percent or 50 percent? In other words, does the shortcut result in losing your previously saved user defined level?


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## wingnutLP (Nov 16, 2008)

As I understand it:

It always turns on at user mode 

It has three modes
1 Low
2 User
3 High

If you ramp up or down from modes 1 or 3 then that level is not remembered as when you ramped to that level you were not in the user mode level at the start.

If you switch to user mode and then ramp from there it then remembers this level until you change it and will always turn on at ths level.


When and where will I be able to buy this light first?!!!!!:thinking:

or put another way:

Ppppppppweasse Mr, can I buy this light?


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## wingnutLP (Nov 16, 2008)

litetube said:


> Wow!! Great addt'l photos Juplin. Very high quality images and good useful descriptions. :twothumbsHave you considered becoming a flashlight reviewer?:thinking:
> 
> Very



Yes, thanks Juplin. This is meant to be constructive rather than a criticism but the camera you have is clearly quite good, it must have a white balance setting on it and setting a manual white balance by taking a photo of a sheet of paper in the light conditions you are photographing in and setting in the menu would turn them from really good photos to great ones!


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## BabyDoc (Nov 16, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> As I understand it:
> 
> It always turns on at user mode
> 
> ...


 
If this is the way it works, and either a shortcut to low or to high can not erase the previously set user mode, then we have a EX10 killer here. That has been one of my main objections with the EX10.

I also hope that there are no ramping problems like there are with the EX10 , where a single press doesn't always ramp the first time you try, if you have shortcuted to extreme high or low.


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## WadeF (Nov 16, 2008)

Anyone know when these will be available?


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## Gatsby (Nov 16, 2008)

I never had functional UI issues with my LF2 or LF5 but admittedly have not used the LF5XT to know how reliable the switch is...

Still I'm very encouraged by the size and functionality of this little light. May not supplant my Novatac but this is a great light with the potential to be a fantastic EDC. So many of the features I've wanted in a smaller package than my Novatac.


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## clintb (Nov 16, 2008)

Khoo said he's putting up the sales thread this weekend and shipping next week.


WadeF said:


> Anyone know when these will be available?


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## torpeau (Nov 16, 2008)

clintb said:


> Khoo said he's putting up the sales thread this weekend and shipping next week.



His weekend is over by now. 

?????????


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## clintb (Nov 16, 2008)

Yep, just noticed the sales thread is up.



torpeau said:


> His weekend is over by now.
> 
> ?????????


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## phantom23 (Nov 16, 2008)

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=186497


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## NetKidz (Nov 16, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I am a bit confused by these examples. Say you have ramped in the user mode to a 20 percent level. You turn the light off and on and you are now at 20 percent, because your 20 percent level WAS saved. You now do a short cut to 100 percent. Now turn the light off. When you turn the light back on, where are you? At 100 percent, 20 percent or 50 percent? In other words, does the shortcut result in losing your previously saved user defined level?


 
Maybe my wording isn't good.  It'll be at user mode which is 20% as I mentioned above. "for CUI: When the light turn on, it always at user mode first."



wingnutLP said:


> As I understand it:
> 
> It always turns on at user mode
> 
> ...


Yes, exactly. 




BabyDoc said:


> If this is the way it works, and either a shortcut to low or to high can not erase the previously set user mode, then we have a EX10 killer here. That has been one of my main objections with the EX10.
> 
> I also hope that there are no ramping problems like there are with the EX10 , where a single press doesn't always ramp the first time you try, if you have shortcuted to extreme high or low.


There's no ramping problem like EX10. It always ramp up from lowest 0.2% or ramp down from highest 100%.

I could always feel the ramping anytime I press and hold. 

_EDIT: _
_from manufacturer: After turn on, the first PH will ramp down if previous saved brightness is >75% or ramp up if <75%. Further new PH will ramp up/down in opposite direction._


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## BabyDoc (Nov 16, 2008)

NetKidz said:


> _EDIT: _
> _from manufacturer: After turn on, the first PH will ramp down if previous saved brightness is >75% or ramp up if <75%. Further PH will ramp up/down in opposite direction._


 
So does this mean after the light has ramped to the top or bottom brightness, it begins ramping in the oppositie direction without a second PH? If so, I am not sure I like that unless it pauses at the extreme awhile before changing directions.


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## WadeF (Nov 16, 2008)

Got my order in!  Can't wait to try it.


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## Thujone (Nov 16, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> So does this mean after the light has ramped to the top or bottom brightness, it begins ramping in the oppositie direction without a second PH? If so, I am not sure I like that unless it pauses at the extreme awhile before changing directions.


No, it stops ramping, unlike the nitecore's ramping it will always ramp in the correct direction after you hit peak or min though


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## WadeF (Nov 16, 2008)

The LF3XT is supposed to have the low low right? Like the LF2?


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## NetKidz (Nov 16, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> So does this mean after the light has ramped to the top or bottom brightness, it begins ramping in the oppositie direction without a second PH? If so, I am not sure I like that unless it pauses at the extreme awhile before changing directions.


Oops... My bad wording again.  

I meant if you release and do another PH, it'll ramp up/down in the oppositie direction. If you don't release the button, it'll stay there. 




Thujone said:


> No, it stops ramping, unlike the nitecore's ramping it will always ramp in the correct direction after you hit peak or min though



Yes. 




WadeF said:


> The LF3XT is supposed to have the low low right? Like the LF2?



Yes. LiteFlux removed the output capacitor and it could be down to 0.2% now. 

But will less efficiency? :thinking:


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## PhantomPhoton (Nov 17, 2008)

Looking good, I await some reviews!

Oh and by the way...
Khoo, tell LiteFlux to hurry up and make the same thing just for an 18650!
LF6! :twothumbs


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## baterija (Nov 17, 2008)

WadeF said:


> The LF3XT is supposed to have the low low right? Like the LF2?



Netkidz got part of it. From what I recall reading it wasn't quit as low as the D10 (and the Novatac was even lower). The question is what .2% looks like. On the LF5XT the same nominal 1% level is brighter on Li-ion (higher current) than Nimh. Since this circuit is already running at higher voltage, it will be interesting to see how .2% on CR123's compares to 1% on Nimh in actual lumens output.


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## baterija (Nov 17, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> I never had functional UI issues with my LF2 or LF5 but admittedly have not used the LF5XT to know how reliable the switch is...



Well if I remember right Orcinus talked about similar switches being rated for millions of clicks in a thread about the LF5XT. I can't speak to the rating of the switch used or that myself. 

I can say things I've done to test my switch:
- submerged the light and operated the switch
- put the light in the freezer for a couple hours and operated the switch repeatedly after taking it out
- took the light in the shower and put the back end/switch right in the pressurized flow of water about an inch from the shower head while operating the switch

Absolutely no issues seen. No water leaking. No fussy electronics in the cold. It responded properly every time. Well there was one issue...me in the shower playing with a flashlight. :tinfoil:


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## BabyDoc (Nov 17, 2008)

This light looks great and could be the perfect EDC light. What would make it even better would be a pocket clip. Is there a clip included with the light or plans for an add-on accessory clip? (I just put a clip on my EX10 and it really makes a difference, not only for carrying the light in a pocket, but it also prevents the light from rolling when placed on a flat surface, and aids in gripping the light better.)


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## torpeau (Nov 17, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> This light looks great and could be the perfect EDC light. What would make it even better would be a pocket clip. Is there a clip included with the light or plans for an add-on accessory clip? (I just put a clip on my EX10 and it really makes a difference, not only for carrying the light in a pocket, but it also prevents the light from rolling when placed on a flat surface, and aids in gripping the light better.)



Khoo says no clip is planned. Many of us don't want a clip which only takes up more space in our pockets.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 17, 2008)

torpeau said:


> Khoo says no clip is planned. Many of us don't want a clip which only takes up more space in our pockets.


 
IMO, a clip SHOULD be an option. It protects the light from scratches in your pocket by keeping the light high in your pocket away from everything else there. It really doesn't take up any space to speak of, since the clip is outside of your pocket. If this were a larger light a sheath would be the way to go, but it isn't.

The LF3XT, unlike the LF5XT, is completely cylindrical like the EX10 with no flats to protect the light from rolling if you were to lay it on its side. I suppose you could attach a lanyard to the light to help it from rolling, but the lanyard will take up more space in your pocket than a clip. I would bet if you took a vote on this, more people would want a clip option than not. That was the case with the EX10. In fact there was so much demand that 4Sevens had an accessory clip made for the EX10.


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## litetube (Nov 17, 2008)

+1 Babydoc.

I dont get what the problem is. The companies that produce all of these "EDC" lights obviously at some point check in on these forums. Every time a new light comes out one of the first questions is "does it have pocket clip?" And time after time after time the answer is no . Yet it is quite obvious most would like to have the option come with the light. AND yet they WILL NOT DO IT. I dont get it, what is the problem? Virtually every folding knife out there today has a removable clip on it. Why? because most people find it the easiest way to EDC the knife and the makers realized this . Yet flashlight makers ignore this again and agian and again. 
Make the clip removable and if you dont want it , take it off. 

:shrug:


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## Gatsby (Nov 17, 2008)

I generally don't like a clip on a pocket light and a clip that cannot be removed is a deal breaker for me (among other things) - having said that I do see the value in having an optional clip available for those who like it. For some reason, however, many of the popular EDC light lines (Fenix, Nitecore, Liteflux, Lumapower, etc...) seem to have one or the other but not a removable option. Although Lumapower and Nitecore have responded to demand and starting supplying one.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 17, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> I generally don't like a clip on a pocket light and a clip that cannot be removed is a deal breaker for me (among other things) - having said that I do see the value in having an optional clip available for those who like it. For some reason, however, many of the popular EDC light lines (Fenix, Nitecore, Liteflux, Lumapower, etc...) seem to have one or the other but not a removable option. Although Lumapower and Nitecore have responded to demand and starting supplying one.


 
Fenix makes many lights with removable clips, the LOD, and the TK10,Tk11, and the TK20 to name a few models. I believe the TK1 did not have a removable clip, but many people figured out how to that anyway. Like with the Ex10, Novatac originally didn't intend to put clips on their lights. Public demand forced them to make clips for the lights which are included with the light as an accessory you can install or not.

I do understand you position, too. Until I had a clip for my EX10, I was happy with a lanyard to protect the light from rolling off a table that wasn't level.


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## torpeau (Nov 17, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> IMO, a clip SHOULD be an option. It protects the light from scratches in your pocket by keeping the light high in your pocket away from everything else there. It really doesn't take up any space to speak of, since the clip is outside of your pocket.



Since I would never use the clip, it would be taking up extra space in my pocket. I'd prefer not to have a clip, but if it can be easily removed or is as unobtrusive as the one on my Dereelight C2H, it's not a deal-breaker.


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 17, 2008)

Here is a possible solution for a missing clip. Don't knock it until you've tried it. I've tried it and the only knock I have is that you can't use it to clip a light to the bill of your cap.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2483552&postcount=15


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## litetube (Nov 17, 2008)

absolutley true , there are many that now do have clips. But most are an afterthought and look like an afterthought ie Novatac and NC PD .
I have found most work like an afterthought also . A clip designed into the original light is gonna be better than a retro fitted after though which has to be a compromise to work.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 17, 2008)

litetube said:


> absolutley true , there are many that now do have clips. But most are an afterthought and look like an afterthought ie Novatac and NC PD .
> I have found most work like an afterthought also . A clip designed into the original light is gonna be better than a retro fitted after though which has to be a compromise to work.


 
The PD clip works great on the EX10. It is firmly attached with hex screws to the light using the holes that were already drilled into the tailcap end, possibly for lanyard use. Some people don't like the way it looks, because it isn't anodized and colored like the body of the light. I like it just the way it is, because it is stainless steel and matches the bezel. In any case it works fine.

I would agree with you about the Novatac clip. It tends to twist on the light and unless you careful, you can scratch the body of the light when you change batteries. They have revised the clip once and it still isn't to my liking.


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## phantom23 (Nov 18, 2008)

One little dissapointment. It's big!!! NDI is much thinner, almost unnoticeable in my pocket.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 18, 2008)

But the NDI is longer. I think the LF3XT looks perfect in size. I have an EX10 which I think may be a bit short for easy gripping and operation. The D10, while thinner and longer and easier to operate, takes up too much space in my pocket like the NDI. The Novatac is much too fat for comfortable pocket carry even with its pocket clip. My only reservation about the LF3XT is its greater weight.


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## torpeau (Nov 18, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> But the NDI is longer. I think the LF3XT looks perfect in size. I have an EX10 which I think may be a bit short for easy gripping and operation.



It's only 3mm longer than an EX10 and 1 or 2mm wider. I can live with that -- especially since its output is superior according to mev.


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## phantom23 (Nov 18, 2008)

Maybe but NDI is more slender = more pocketable. With LF3XT I always feel I have something thick inside my pocket...


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## Gatsby (Nov 18, 2008)

I'd expect a AA light to be thinner than a CR123 based light.

Mostly I'm interested in something a bit more pocketable than my Novatac - which pushes the limits for pocketability.


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## Gatsby (Nov 18, 2008)

THere was some discussion of were the LF3XT fits into the marketplace and whether it is a direct competitor to the EX10 or not. Personally, I think it is not a direct competitor to the EX10 which was specifically positioned and designed as a single adjustable mode light (the min/max was a bonus) more like the LRI Proton Pro or VB10 but in an EDC package. The min/max bonus frustrated me as I wanted to be able to use the EX10 as a multimode light but that was not the design intent.

The LF3XT, like the LF_ series before it, is definitely a programmable multi mode light - in this case with a clickie interface rather than the twisty. I think it quite honestly only really competes with other single CR123A programmable lights like the Novatac EDC series, Jetbeam IBS, the Ra Clickie and the Arc6 (and any of the flupic based lights although those are twisties). I think it competes against the Jetbeam IBS lights most directly from a price standpoint although perhaps more with the Novatac from a function standpoint.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 18, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> I'd expect a AA light to be thinner than a CR123 based light.



Quite!


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## BabyDoc (Nov 18, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> THere was some discussion of were the LF3XT fits into the marketplace and whether it is a direct competitor to the EX10 or not. Personally, I think it is not a direct competitor to the EX10 which was specifically positioned and designed as a single adjustable mode light (the min/max was a bonus) more like the LRI Proton Pro or VB10 but in an EDC package. The min/max bonus frustrated me as I wanted to be able to use the EX10 as a multimode light but that was not the design intent.
> 
> The LF3XT, like the LF_ series before it, is definitely a programmable multi mode light - in this case with a clickie interface rather than the twisty. I think it quite honestly only really competes with other single CR123A programmable lights like the Novatac EDC series, Jetbeam IBS, the Ra Clickie and the Arc6 (and any of the flupic based lights although those are twisties). I think it competes against the Jetbeam IBS lights most directly from a price standpoint although perhaps more with the Novatac from a function standpoint.


 
In price, size, and in its simple interface mode it most definitely is very comparable to the EX10. Like the EX10, and unlike the other lights in the LF series, you have a single user definable mode that is easily set by ramping. The fact that it has additional capabilities like the rest of the LF series, makes it an EX10 killer. Why buy an EX10, when you can have a user mode settable by ramping that is retained even if you access the shortcut high and low? Why buy an EX10, when with the LF3XT for nearly the same price as an EX10, you have the additional features that are available only a lights costing twice the price, like a novatac p120? (Yes, I agree, it also competes with the Novatac with regard to features and smooth beam quality)

The appeal of the EX10, besides its similar size and shape, is its simple interface. I suppose you could argue why would anyone buy an LF3XT if they only intended to use it its simple interface mode, and not its other features. You might think they would still buy the EX10. But the EX10, as simple as its interface is, still has a problems people don't like: it will lose is user definable memory mode if you shortcut to high or low; you often have to press twice to get it to begin ramping; it often accidentally get to high or low when you don't want it; it requires steady thumb pressure on the switch while ramping or it accidentally changes modes or shuts off. The LF3XT, without the problematic PD contact ring on a spring, hopefully will not have any of these issues. Not only that, but the LF beam is much smoother than the Q5 beam on the EX10. The only thing definitely in the EX10's favor is a pocket clip.


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## phantom23 (Nov 18, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> In price, size, and in its simple interface mode it most definitely is very comparable to the EX10.



WHAT?! 

I have my LF3XT for a few hours and still no idea what's going on in this freaky interface! I'm selling this cr.p tomorrow!


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## wingnutLP (Nov 18, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> WHAT?!
> 
> I have my LF3XT for a few hours and still no idea what's going on in this freaky interface! I'm selling this cr.p tomorrow!



come on... we need more than that!! 

Have you had a liteflux light or is this your first?


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## Gatsby (Nov 18, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> In price, size, and in its simple interface mode it most definitely is very comparable to the EX10. Like the EX10, and unlike the other lights in the LF series, you have a single user definable mode that is easily set by ramping. The fact that it has additional capabilities like the rest of the LF series, makes it an EX10 killer. Why buy an EX10, when you can have a user mode settable by ramping that is retained even if you access the shortcut high and low? Why buy an EX10, when with the LF3XT for nearly the same price as an EX10, you have the additional features that are available only a lights costing twice the price, like a novatac p120? (Yes, I agree, it also competes with the Novatac with regard to features and smooth beam quality)
> 
> The appeal of the EX10, besides its similar size and shape, is its simple interface. I suppose you could argue why would anyone buy an LF3XT if they only intended to use it its simple interface mode, and not its other features. You might think they would still buy the EX10. But the EX10, as simple as its interface is, still has a problems people don't like: it will lose is user definable memory mode if you shortcut to high or low; you often have to press twice to get it to begin ramping; it often accidentally get to high or low when you don't want it; it requires steady thumb pressure on the switch while ramping or it accidentally changes modes or shuts off. The LF3XT, without the problematic PD contact ring on a spring, hopefully will not have any of these issues. Not only that, but the LF beam is much smoother than the Q5 beam on the EX10. The only thing definitely in the EX10's favor is a pocket clip.



I don't disagree with you - I just know that when I discussed my frustration about the memorization of the user level on the EX10 FourSevens was explicit that it was their intent to create a single mode light that can be adjusted - not a multi mode light - and that min/max were bonuses but not really intended to make it a multi mode light. I thought it was a bit of form over substance - since it sure operates like a multi mode light - just one with what was for me a fatal flaw in the erasing of the user set level. But lots of people are happy enough with it as is and like the simplicity - particulalry if you just ramp up/down like it was apparently intended to operate. Makes you wonder if they don't regret the direct min/max access.

But the LF3XT certainly is in the same size class as the EX10, the Incendio, Fenixes, etc...


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## phantom23 (Nov 18, 2008)

LF3XT doesn't have memory on user mode as well. FUI (full user interface) has memory.



wingnutLP said:


> come on... we need more than that!!
> 
> Have you had a liteflux light or is this your first?



This is my first Liteflux (or any such complicated flashlight) and now I know it was a mistake. I have no Idea how to change (and save) the brightness on any of 5 FUI modes. I don't know how to get rid of strobe/signal (any blinking) mode (there are 2 of 5). There's not a word about it in manual. Sorry this is too complicated, this menu is impossible to remember - you need instruction to change anything! Horror!

I'll not sell it tomorrow. I already did it...


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## Gatsby (Nov 18, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> LF3XT doesn't have memory on user mode as well. FUI (full user interface) has memory.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



:thinking:

Not the most ringing endorsement but it sounds perhaps like as much a condemnation of programmable multi mode lights as the LF3 specifically...?


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## phantom23 (Nov 18, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> it sounds perhaps like as much a condemnation of programmable multi mode lights as the LF3 specifically...?



For me - it is a condemnation. I want to use my flashlight not fight with it!


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## gunga (Nov 18, 2008)

I've had quite a few programmable Litefluxes. I ended up selling them all due to the funky interface/programming. 

The twisty style ones were a real pain to program but decent in use, just a bit limited. I'd prefer a 3 level initial mode.

The LF5XT (and likely LF3XT) are somewhat of a pain to set up but again are good in use. Programming with a clicky is a lot better.

I tend to prefer the simpler programming of the Novatac, but even that one requires instructions for remembering all the special modes.

I think Phantom should just stsick to somewhat simpler lights. I understand his frustration, the Liteflux (and it's cryptic instructions) is good for a tinkering flashaholic, but not for someone wants something relatively easy to learn.

That is why I l ike the Nitecores series. Yes I would like it to remember my last mode, but I appreciate the relatively no nonsense UI. 

I know you can use CUI in the LF3XT, but sometimes it's best to not have the possibility of stumbling into programming. So I can see 2 somewhat different markets for the 2 lights.


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## phantom23 (Nov 18, 2008)

Exactly!!!


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## torpeau (Nov 18, 2008)

Aren't the 1st of them just shipping today?


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## phantom23 (Nov 18, 2008)

Yes


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## clintb (Nov 18, 2008)

The programmable nature of the FUI just isn't for everyone, but that's what makes the LF3XT such a cool light; you can use the CUI and keep it simple. What's not to like about that?


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## gunga (Nov 18, 2008)

Yep, that is true. But I think for many (not all) a simpler light is the way to go. A useful tool you don't have to think about (too much).

I'm not saying I don't think the Liteflux is cool. It is arguably thge most powerful light series (ie programming and functions) in existence. It has so many great features. 

It's just not for everyone.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 18, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> WHAT?!
> 
> I have my LF3XT for a few hours and still no idea what's going on in this freaky interface! I'm selling this cr.p tomorrow!


 
Where did you get it? The US distributer doesn't have them yet. Khoo doesn't even have them yet. If you really have one, PM mail me. I'll buy it from you.


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## WadeF (Nov 18, 2008)

I have a LF5XT so I know what to expect as far as the "complicated" UI. I didn't find it that complicated to program my LF3XT. I just set it for 3 modes, low, medium, and high. I leave it set on low by default and if I need high I just press and hold for high, and then it returns to low.

The LF5XT never made it as an EDC because it has some pointy and sharp edges around the bezel, etc. 

The LF3XT looks like a nice design as far as comfort. I'll have to see if I can find a practical way to carry it, for me. I generally like keeping my EDC in a belt holster. I used to carry a Fenix P2D in it's holster, now the Nitecore EX10 resides in the P2D's holster. Not sure if the LF3XT will fit the same holster, it might. 

While some aren't fans of the Nitecore's PD, I have found it to be a reliable and very useful UI. I like the feel of the piston, and the way the D10/EX10 function. 

The Liteflux with their push button, while it isn't a PD, it's similar and I prefer it to a clicky switch. So the LF3XT has a shot at becoming my new EDC if it has a nice beam with more output than my EX10 GDP, a lower low, etc. Really hoping for a low low.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 18, 2008)

gunga said:


> I know you can use CUI in the LF3XT, but sometimes it's best to not have the possibility of stumbling into programming. So I can see 2 somewhat different markets for the 2 lights.


 
+1
You make a very good point here, Gunga. I am not sure how hard it is to stumble into the programming mode with the LF3XT, but it sure would be frustrating if that happened and you didn't have any instructions handy. Even then, for the technically challenged, those instructions might not help. Trying to make the same LF3XT simple for some and complex for others, may not be as great an idea as it first seemed to me, unless you could select to lock out the programming features, as you can with the Novatac p120.


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## gunga (Nov 18, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> unless you could select to lock out the programming features, as you can with the Novatac p120.


 

That's a great idea, I even forgot you could do that on the Novatac (I've stumbled into features programming by accident, but it's easy to back out of it on the NOvatac).

I think that would make the light pretty universal if you could lock out the funky modes.

Perhaps start with CUI and allow prgramming for those inclined. I think that would be a must have feature for some of these crazy complicated lights. Great idea!


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## Gatsby (Nov 18, 2008)

I admit that some of the Liteflux instructions were not terribly clear (not to mention the 1 point type font used!) but agree that 3 modes really is optimal.

I still have my LF2 and it is a great and underrated light I think. I've found the build quality to be quite good on the two I've owned (LF2 and LF5 - sold the LF5 only because I bought a Novatac 85P and if I was going to carry something that big I was going to carry the Novatac, but it was a fine light once programmed).

Still - having used my CR2 Ion for some time I admit that I yearn a bit for a middle range level - the low is great for around the house after dark and real close up work, and the high is a bit much for some tasks... and my recently acquired Fenix L1T v2.0 (Leatherman branded) has a great beam, excellent high and useful levels but I sure do wish I had a third low low.... Maybe I'm just a 3 mode kind of guy because I really like a low low for a lot of applications but that is obviously quite limiting for anything other than those specific applications (mostly wandering around the house at night!)....

I'm holding off to hear some preliminary reports but I know I'll pull the trigger on this one - I'm hoping it can supplant my two CR2 lights and put me on a CR123 platform for my EDC needs.


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## baterija (Nov 18, 2008)

gunga said:


> Perhaps start with CUI and allow prgramming for those inclined. I think that would be a must have feature for some of these crazy complicated lights. Great idea!


The CUI is supposed to ship as the default. Otherwise I would agree it would be tough to sell a simple interface to those who never wanted to see the other one.

To the issue of stumbling into programming mode, while I will say there is always a chance while two UI's exist, it would be unlikely. From the CUI you would have to initially do 5C+PH to get to the FUI. Then follow up with a 4C+PH to get to the operation mode programming, or 3C+PH to get to the individual level settings. I've never gotten to either of the two programming menus by accident in my 5XT. To a CUI only user the odds are even lower since they have to jump through one more hoop before they get into a programming mode. If the 3XT is the same as the 5XT you can unscrew the head, break the power connection, and it will leave programming mode without changing settings too. 

For those thinking about the LF3XT this post had a link to the LF3XT operation manual. (Link in that post is straight to a pdf) I didn't have any particular issue with my LF5XT. I had a plan for programming before I ever got it though. With a little care, patience, and the manual in front of me I got it setup the way I want. I haven't been into the operations mode programming since that first day. You don't need to "know" it all; you just need to be able to read it and do it while setting it up in accordance with your plan. Since then my light has been amazingly simple. FUI is a big intial hump to manage that takes attention to detail. If you can it's amazing. If not stay away.

One last thing - Gatsby, it can be a 3 mode light in FUI if that's what you want.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 18, 2008)

For those who think it is too complicated this is why we have orcinus! 
Flowcharts guys - flowcharts are great for learning a light like this and orcinus did a great flowchart for the LF5XT. Hopefully he'll do one for this. Once I've studied a flow chart I can usually picture it in my mind if I need to change things - a lot easier than remembering a lot of text - at least for me. But I think the most complex of our lights are simple compared to the computers we use. You learn them by using them a lot and that's the other way you get a complex flashlight memorized.


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 18, 2008)

I hope they send one to MrGman for testing. If you just go by lux, the Q5 Fenix cr123 lights seems much better on runtime. I think The LF3XT would do better in comparison, if its lumens at the different levels were known. 

I'm just using Fenix as an example, because many people have seen them first hand. Lumens and runtime are just two measures of a flashlight, there are other important measures. Obviously, the LF3XT has many more features.


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## baterija (Nov 19, 2008)

I checked with EliteLed, the US distributor for Liteflux, who is still showing them as "Coming Soon". They said their shipment from Liteflux should be in by the end of the week, barring customs delays.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 19, 2008)

baterija said:


> I checked with EliteLed, the US distributor for Liteflux, who is still showing them as "Coming Soon". They said their shipment from Liteflux should be in by the end of the week, barring customs delays.


 

Good news!:twothumbs


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## snakyjake (Nov 21, 2008)

torpeau said:


> Khoo says no clip is planned. Many of us don't want a clip which only takes up more space in our pockets.



A pocket clip should be an option. You can have one, or not. Just like the EX10.

I have the EX10 in pocket with the clip. The clip makes it easily available. Plus it keeps the light from moving around when I'm jogging :thumbsup:.

But please, no clip like the EagleTac P10C. :thumbsdow


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## carl (Nov 22, 2008)

I second the motion regarding making the LF5XT look the same - just a simple knurled tube design. No skinny sections - just a straight tube.


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## Splunk_Au (Nov 22, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> LF3XT doesn't have memory on user mode as well. FUI (full user interface) has memory.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
From the tone and structured points in posts, it's obvious your helping another manufacturer/dealer which may stand to loose sales due to the LF3 XT's full featured programmable interface and great value retail price. But that's OK, cos luckily most CPFer's with experience are smarter than that.

Also, for all those complaining about the extra thickness of the LF3 XT. It's so that the light is physically tougher.So you wont see you LF3 XT breaking after a few battery changes like the EX10.


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## snakyjake (Nov 22, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> Also, for all those complaining about the extra thickness of the LF3 XT. It's so that the light is physically tougher.So you wont see you LF3 XT breaking after a few battery changes like the EX10.



My Fenix P3D is 21mm, so is the P2D, and mine hasn't broken. Haven't heard from anyone else that there's is breaking either.

I'm all for having anything stronger, as long as it doesn't grow outside of my pocket.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 24, 2008)

Mine arrived today and the simple UI is the best I have used. The programming however is not straightforward!

HELP :mecry:


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## phantom23 (Nov 24, 2008)

If you didn't managed in in a few hours you'll necer get it. I sold mine because of it...


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## clintb (Nov 24, 2008)

Eh, programming isn't difficult. When I got my LF5XT, I sat down with the manual, figured out the terminology and went from there. Total time, about 20 minutes.


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## WadeF (Nov 24, 2008)

I have a LF2 and a LF5XT, they aren't that hard to figure out, for me anyway. From my experience selling electronics to people, many people are technically challenged. These types of people may want to skip the Liteflux.  Leaves more of them for us.


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## phantom23 (Nov 24, 2008)

Reachargeable battery protection. Quote from users manual:

- turn on LF3XT
- 5xC+PH change to FUI and indicate double flash
- 4xC+PH access function operation mode. It shows one flash, two seconds blank and repeat - function mode 1
- 1xC go to mext function mode and indicate flash 2 times 2 second blank & repeat - function mode 2 (rechargeable battery over-discharde protection function)
- 3xC+PH go into over-discharge protection function setting. After an one second LED ON indication will show the status of setting
flash 1 time 2 seconds blank & repeat: no protection
flash 2 times 2 seconds blank & repeat: 16340 Li-Ion, RCR123 protection. 3,0V warning & 2,8V shutdown
flash 3 times 2 seconds blank & repeat: LiFePO4 battery protection. 2,7V - warning & 2,5V shutdown
flash 4 times 2 seconds blank & repeat: 2AA Ni-MH battery protection. 2,0V - warning & 1,8V - shutdown.
- 1xC go to the next protection
- 3xC+PH save and exit protection setting
- 3C exit, back to the main operation mode of FUI

Simple, isn't it? Many clicks, PH's (press and hold) counting blinks and time between them. Besides - different combination to go to protection function and different to go out... (not to mention save+go out).

"Function setting modes" (called mode 1,2,3... in manual, who knows which is which?) have no logical order, don't know how to switch between them, how to recognize them. 
To go to it you need to do:
3xC+PH "setting mode entry" (what the hell is this?) 
4xC+PH "function mode setting" 

I want to change mode number (default 5 is too many):
-mode number setting: flash 3 times, 2 seconds blank and repeat. Nice, I'm in. But how to change mode number? There's not a word about it!

UI is complicated, unlogical, there's no many instructions in the manual. Those who don't like wasting time should skip Liteflux. Including me. Thanks but no thanks.


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 24, 2008)

I'd prefer YouTube videos, seriously.



phantom23 said:


> Reachargeable battery protection. Quote from users manual:
> 
> - turn on LF3XT
> - 5xC+PH change to FUI and indicate double flash
> ...


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## phantom23 (Nov 24, 2008)

So do I. But I didn't figured it out yet.


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## Splunk_Au (Nov 24, 2008)

snakyjake said:


> My Fenix P3D is 21mm, so is the P2D, and mine hasn't broken. Haven't heard from anyone else that there's is breaking either.
> 
> I'm all for having anything stronger, as long as it doesn't grow outside of my pocket.


 
Dude you're not comparing apples to apples
We're talking about lights with 2 layers in the batter tube here.
The Fenix lights are not built like like.

The LiteFlux and NiteCores have another metal sleeve inside the battery tube which adds to the thickness.

Btw phantom23, enough with the complaining/sarcasm already. As you can see, there are so many people who have the LiteFlux and have no problems programming it. Heck these new XT's are much easier to program in fact, compared to the older twisties. Illogical, complicated?
If others can get it within 20 minutes of playing around with it, perhaps the problem lies with the user, not the light


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 24, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> Dude you're not comparing apples to apples
> We're talking about lights with 2 layers in the batter tube here.
> The Fenix lights are not built like like.
> 
> The LiteFlux and NiteCores have another metal sleeve inside the battery tube which adds to the thickness.


What is the combined thickness?


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## WadeF (Nov 24, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> So do I. But I didn't figured it out yet.


 
We get it, you can't figure it out. Those of us who already have Liteflux lights and have had no problems figuring it out will be fine with the LF3XT. I had the UI memorized in no time as far as changing the # of modes and programming what I want each mode to do with the Liteflux LF5XT. Much easier than the LF2 with all its twisting. The only thing I might have to reference are things like enabling the over discharge protection, but I normally just set that once and leave it.


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## carl (Nov 25, 2008)

torpeau said:


> It's only 3mm longer than an EX10 and 1 or 2mm wider. I can live with that -- especially since its output is superior according to mev.



Why is the LF3XT only marginally longer than the EX10 but the LF5XT is a lot longer (more than 3mm for sure) than the D10? Has Liteflux figured out a way to shorten the switch length?


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## phantom23 (Nov 25, 2008)

Splunk_Au said:


> Btw phantom23, enough with the complaining/sarcasm already.



Sarcasm? Truth, the whole thruth and nothing but the truth so help me God.



WadeF said:


> I normally just set that once and leave it.



Problem is - how?


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## TooManyGizmos (Nov 25, 2008)

Maybe we'll get a LFX 3 .... Flow chart soon.


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## Thujone (Nov 25, 2008)

carl said:


> Why is the LF3XT only marginally longer than the EX10 but the LF5XT is a lot longer (more than 3mm for sure) than the D10? Has Liteflux figured out a way to shorten the switch length?




The LF5XT has a very deep reflector. I believe this is the main contributor to the length of the LF5XT. Well worth it imo though as it has a perfect beam.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 25, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> Mine arrived today and the simple UI is the best I have used. The programming however is not straightforward!



It is logical but the instructions are not well explained.



phantom23 said:


> If you didn't managed in in a few hours you'll necer get it. I sold mine because of it...



This light is clearly not for you... your point is taken, you don't like it and can't understand how to program it. If it took you two hours then it definitely wasn't the light for you. Please pipe down and move on... I think an EX10 may be more your thing ;-)



clintb said:


> Eh, programming isn't difficult. When I got my LF5XT, I sat down with the manual, figured out the terminology and went from there. Total time, about 20 minutes.



I agree it isn't difficult once you get it but the terminology is not easy. They would be well advised to have someone write better instructions.



WadeF said:


> I have a LF2 and a LF5XT, they aren't that hard to figure out, for me anyway. From my experience selling electronics to people, many people are technically challenged. These types of people may want to skip the Liteflux.  Leaves more of them for us.



I am definitely not "technically challenged" part of my job is product design but I am not a sucker for punishment. It took me about 20 to 30 minutes to understand how to program the light in the end however; that is an unacceptably long time. If the instructions had been written better it would have taken me 5 minutes.

In honesty I still can't figure out how to change the beacon from single flash to double flash. I tried for about 15 minutes after setting my 4 main modes and my final beacon mode but I have lost interest! single flash beacon is fine but it isn't perfect...

If someone can highlight the text in the instructions that explains how to change the beacon from single flash to double I would greatly appreciate it. I would also be surprised if you could really say that it "isn't difficult" for even the top 10% of techies amongst the general population!

Even if you ignore the programmable interface completely and only use the simple one I believe that this is hands down the best light I have owned. If you include the programmable mode it spanks the opposition. At the moment all it needs is a better set of instructions and that double AA tube.


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## WadeF (Nov 25, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> Problem is - how?


 
By reading the instructions and being able to comprehend them and carry them out.

With the LF5XT it is:

*4xC+PH : Special Function setting Command.*

That means 4 clicks then a 5th click, but you hold the 5th to enter the special function setting command. 

You should then see the light flash once with 2 seconds of off inbetween each flash. This means you are at function 1. We want function 2, which is the battery over dicharge protection.

So we need to click once to move onto the next function, which will flash twice, off 2 seconds, flash twice, etc. Now that we know we are at function #2 we want to modify it by 3 clicks, then the 4th click being a click and hold, so click, click, click, press and hold. 

If the protection is on it will flash quickly, if it is off it will flash slowly. You can toggel between off and on with a single click, and it should be easy to tell the fast and slow flashes apart. So if you want it on you make sure it's doing the fast flashes. 

Now we do 3 clicks, and a press and hold to save the setting. Then another 3 clicks and a press and hold to return to normal operation. 

It sounds like a lot, but it's really not that bad, to me anyway.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 25, 2008)

Just to clarify it seems that to change single pulse to double on the beacon mode I need to enter function setting mode and then go to "memory function" mode which is 5 presses to get to the five flashes. I enter this mode by 3c + PH then clicking once goes between 1Hz and 2 Hz set to 2Hz and "save and exit back to function setting mode" with 3c + PH. Then I am back to function setting mode where each time I press I go to one flash, the 2 flash then 3 etc... but as far as I can see there is no option to "save and go back to main operation mode" the only option I can find and I have looked several times is 3c which is "exit and back to main operation mode without saving".

I can't see any way to leave "function setting mode" while saving your changes... I may well be missing the obvious here but if I am it should be more obvious!


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## WadeF (Nov 25, 2008)

With the LF5XT to save it's always 3 clicks and a press and hold. 3 clicks to exit, 3 clicks with a press and hold to save and exit. I don't know about the LF3XT for sure.


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## phantom23 (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks. But how to change number of modes? 5 is too much, I need 3 or 4.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 25, 2008)

WadeF said:


> With the LF5XT to save it's always 3 clicks and a press and hold. 3 clicks to exit, 3 clicks with a press and hold to save and exit. I don't know about the LF3XT for sure.



In function setting mode on the lF3XT
1xc next mode
2xc previous mode
3xc exit and back to main operation mode without saving
3xc + PH current function mode ENTRY

There is no mention in the "function setting mode" paragraph about save and exit...


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## wingnutLP (Nov 25, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> Thanks. But how to change number of modes? 5 is too much, I need 3 or 4.




I thought you sold it so who cares?


but to help you...

4xC +PH to enter function setting mode

single click 3 times to get "mode number setting" this sets the number of modes 

the light should now be flashing three times then 2 second gap

if not keep clicking once until you see the triple flash

then 3xc + PH to "enter current (selected) function mode"

then single click till you see the number of flashes equivalent to the number of modes you want

then 3xc + PH to return "save and exit to function setting mode"

What isn't obvious is how you then exit "function setting mode"

It is (almost) all there but if you want something simpler go buy an EX 10 or any other non programmable light for that matter!


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## BabyDoc (Nov 25, 2008)

EliteLED, the US distributer, now has the LF3XT, They were delayed in customs but finally are in stock and they are beginning to ship them today.

I wasn't going to order it right away, but I just did. I usually wait for initial bugs to be ironed out of a new model and get a light from the second run. However, I was so excited by this light, even without a clip, I couldn't wait. Hopefully, there won't be problems this time. In any case, with a US distributer, I feel a lot more secure ordering this than I did when the LF5XT was first released and the only recourse then with problems was to send it back to Taiwan.


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## WadeF (Nov 25, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> In function setting mode on the lF3XT
> 1xc next mode
> 2xc previous mode
> 3xc exit and back to main operation mode without saving
> ...


 
Actually there is, the last line:

"3xc + PH current function mode ENTRY"

At least I believe that is what they are trying to say (current function mode ENTRY = save the function mode's current setting) ) Often the first instructions are poorly translated, but it doesn't take long for someone on CPF to post clearer instructions. I certainly wouldn't get rid of a liteflux because I couldn't wait for someone to post better instructions.


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## carl (Nov 26, 2008)

why still the 1 second delay between the button-press and when the light comes on? its quite noticeable on the you-tube LF5XT reviews.


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## Art Vandelay (Nov 26, 2008)

carl said:


> why still the 1 second delay between the button-press and when the light comes on? its quite noticeable on the you-tube LF5XT reviews.


I think it gives you time to enter the command, so it knows what to do. If you want it to start at the default level you enter one command, if you want it to go directly to high you enter another command. One guy asked a funny question about if it had to load Microsoft Vista before turning on the light. I don't think it is that bad.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 26, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Actually there is, the last line:
> 
> "3xc + PH current function mode ENTRY"
> 
> At least I believe that is what they are trying to say (current function mode ENTRY = save the function mode's current setting) ) Often the first instructions are poorly translated, but it doesn't take long for someone on CPF to post clearer instructions. I certainly wouldn't get rid of a liteflux because I couldn't wait for someone to post better instructions.



That command enters the mode that you have selected. you cycle through the modes you can set eg number of user inputs, battery discharge etc... and then that command selects that mode. You then set that mode and save it and go back to to the selection "menu" there then doesn't seem to be a way to "save and return to normal operation".

I am not complaining and I am certainly not going to sell the light. It is , as I said before the best I have owned but it is let down by the instructions.



carl said:


> why still the 1 second delay between the button-press and when the light comes on? its quite noticeable on the you-tube LF5XT reviews.



There is no delay on mine, turning on is instant. Changing modes or turning off has a very short delay as it is waiting to see if you press the button again.

The button is so responsive that it feels like it turns on before it clicks all of the way down. I am glad that undoing the head locks the light off as I think otherwise you would turnn it on in your pocket or a bag all of the time.

In teh end I worked out how to change to double flash and it isn't in the menu I thought at all. You go into the user level you want to change change that to beacon, switch from brightness to frequency and cycle all the way past teh single flash modes and it then goes into double flash. There is no mention of this in the instructions, I found it by luck and an hour of perseverance!

Alex


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## Henk_Lu (Nov 26, 2008)

I read this whole thread, the one on market place and the PDF of the manual.

Until now I don't own a programmable light and my conclusion is, that it will stay like this... 

The CUI may be a good idea, but I know myself well : I'd end up in trying to program the FUI and stumble into more questions than answers. Once I'd get it, I'd still constantly get out the manual to remind me of how to change this and that and to change brighnesses up and down... 

I'm glad I've read the whole stuff here, so I know for sure I'm the simple guy!

I wonder when the first flashlight with a computer-connection and a special programmation will come out?

Greets,

Henk


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## phantom23 (Nov 26, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> It is (almost) all there but if you want something simpler go buy an EX 10 or any other non programmable light for that matter!



I have D10 SE. Much better functionality than LF3XT. Programmable isn't always better.



carl said:


> why still the 1 second delay between the button-press and when the light comes on? its quite noticeable on the you-tube LF5XT reviews.



No delay at all. There's slight delay while switching off.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 26, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> I read this whole thread, the one on market place and the PDF of the manual.
> 
> Until now I don't own a programmable light and my conclusion is, that it will stay like this...
> 
> The CUI may be a good idea, but I know myself well : I'd end up in trying to program the FUI and stumble into more questions than answers. Once I'd get it, I'd still constantly get out the manual to remind me of how to change this and that and to change brighnesses up and down...



With good instructions it would take 15 minutes to program it and I suspect you would never want to change it. I already know hoew to do the basic changes eg to change level without using the instructions.

I 100% honestly thing that the CUI is the best UI on the market place and I strongly reccommend the light to anyone regardless of ability or inclinaion to fiddle. If all goes wrong with programmable mode all you need to do is remove and replace the battery and then 5 click press and hold to go back to the CUI.



phantom23 said:


> I have D10 SE. Much better functionality than LF3XT. Programmable isn't always better.



I think the D10/EX10 has the least useful interface I have ever used. To my mind it is either effectively a one mode user programmable light or a light which takes between 3 and 5 secconds to "select" the desired brightness each and every time you use it. LAME :wave:


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## rayman (Nov 26, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> I think the D10/EX10 has the least useful interface I have ever used. To my mind it is either effectively a one mode user programmable light or a light which takes between 3 and 5 secconds to "select" the desired brightness each and every time you use it. LAME :wave:



I don't think so. In one point you are right. In 99% of the time I use the EX10 I either use high or low. So I only need the two shortcuts (double click for low, click and press for high). So I don't really need the ramping. But for this last 1% it's good to have the ramping.

rayman


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## wingnutLP (Nov 26, 2008)

rayman said:


> I don't think so. In one point you are right. In 99% of the time I use the EX10 I either use high or low. So I only need the two shortcuts (double click for low, click and press for high). So I don't really need the ramping. But for this last 1% it's good to have the ramping.
> 
> rayman



Fair dues, I find the low to low nearly all of the time and the high unnecessarily high much of the time.

With the LF in any mode oif you press and hold the ion it goes straight to high which is great.

Alex


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## Thujone (Nov 26, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> I have D10 SE. Much better functionality than LF3XT. Programmable isn't always better.



Boy the hits just keep on coming.... It may be fair to say the D10 has simpler functionality. But better? In most situations you are just trolling when you use subjective words to declare fact. In this case you are just choosing the wrong word entirely since the LF3xt actually mirrors the functionality and adds to it. I think in a poll of your peers most would agree that more functionality especially when it is all configurable is 'better'. I am not sure exactly what your agenda is but I for one would appreciate it if you would stop rehashing your 'its too complicated for me' complaint.


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## phantom23 (Nov 26, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> I thought you sold it so who cares?
> 
> but to help you...
> 
> ...



I sold but not shipped yet
Your tutorial doesn't work. After 3xC+PH and single click there's no number of modes selection. It flashes twice every 1,5s...


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## clintb (Nov 26, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> I sold but not shipped yet
> Your tutorial doesn't work. After 3xC+PH and single click there's no number of modes selection. It flashes twice every 1,5s...


You've made up your mind to sell it, so do so and please leave this thread. Your constant negative tone does nothing for anyone here. Either get constructive, or get out. Please, for the sanity of all the competent people here, find another outlet for your non-programmable light needs.


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## phantom23 (Nov 26, 2008)

Not negative. Manual is not complete and I'm sure I'm not the only one that wants to know this. 'wingnutLP' wrote how to do it but it doesn't work. That's all.


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## Thujone (Nov 26, 2008)

iF the programming is like the LF5XT then it is 3c+PH to save, then 3C to exit. if you do a second 3c+PH it would take you right back into that programming section.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 26, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> Not negative. Manual is not complete and I'm sure I'm not the only one that wants to know this. 'wingnutLP' wrote how to do it but it doesn't work. That's all.



It does on mine so either you aren't doing it correctly or you have a faulty unit. I suspect that is the former rather than the latter I am afraid.

Maybe start a new thread: "Can someone help me program my LF3XT please?"


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## BabyDoc (Nov 26, 2008)

HINT: The best way to deal with trolls is to ignore them. They will then quickly seek another outlet for attention. If you continue to give them the attention they don't deserve, they never go away.


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## phantom23 (Nov 26, 2008)

Yes, I need help so I am a troll. Thank you very much, it was very kind of you:thumbsdow.


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## clintb (Nov 26, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> Yes, I need help so I am a troll. Thank you very much, it was very kind of you:thumbsdow.


It becomes trolling when you've repeatedly stated you're either selling the light, or have already sold it, but keep harping on the fact that YOU can't program the light. Which is it, do you want help programming it, or do you want to sell it?

Seriously, either change the constant complaints to that of a genuine plea for help, or sell it and don't post in this thread.

Time to make a choice. Be an adult, or put a sock in it.


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## phantom23 (Nov 26, 2008)

No, I want to sell it and I have a buyer. But before that I want to work it out because I'm adult and I don't like leave things unfinished. Besides it might be useful for others because as WadeF said - instructions are poor.


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## tpchan (Nov 26, 2008)

The programming interface and the complaints that have followed the LiteFlux line are really quite silly. Since the inception of the LF2, LF3, LF4, and LF5, the interface has been full-featured and relatively hard to use, especially when compared to a simply clicky interface. With the addition to their line of the LF5XT and the LF3XT, the interface is even more full-featured now and even more desireable for those that have to be able to control almost every aspect of their programmable lights. No one from LiteFlux has ever said their lights were easy to use or were going to get easier to use in the future.

I'm sure when they release their next iteration there will still be clueless people that refuse to read old programming threads, or watch old programming videos available on YouTube, or read the user written docs that really do a nice job of explaining the programming and then they'll post in CPF about how terrible LiteFlux flashlights are.

The rest of use like LiteFlux lights and we can obviously program them. Enough ranting, please. Yes, my LF3XT is finally in the mail from overseas. I already know how to program it just reading the supplied pdf versions of the manual. That and my LF5XT works just fine and is programmed the way I like it by me!


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## Zefiryn (Nov 26, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> No, I want to sell it and I have a buyer. But before that I want to work it out because I'm adult and I don't like leave things unfinished. Besides it might be useful for others because as WadeF said - instructions are poor.



OK I'll give You an example: let's say You want to change number of modes from 5 to 3 only

If UR in CUI mode:

5x[c]+[PH] goes to FUI mode,

now You can check it out : each 2x[C] cycles thru all five factory modes

OK, lets go to change mode number:

4x[C]+[PH] and You are in function settings mode,

here You can change:
-over discharge protection
-mode number
-reset function
-memory function

now flashlight blinks to show where You are:
each 1x[C] moves You to next function: 

1 blink: no function (reserved for future)
2 blinks: over discharge protection on/off
3 blinks: mode number settings : THIS IS WHAT WE ARE ABOUT TO SETUP

NOW: 3x[C]+[PH] ENTERS mode number settings,
now again flashlight blinks, to show You mode numbers: 5 blinks means 5 modes, 1 blink means one mode,
each1 x[C] increases mode number, while 2x[C] decreases, 

So, if You want 3 modes only , 2x 2x[C] will do 

NOW, You have to memorize new settings, and to go back to function settings mode, to change some other funcion: 3x[C]+[PH]

and again flashlight blinks to to show where You are:

Remember?? each 1x[C] moves You to next function

3 blinks: mode number settings
4 blinks :reset function
5 blinks: memory function

IF You don't want to do any further changes 3x[C] returns to operation mode, now You can use Your freshly programmed 3 mode flashlight 

Simply as is, Enjoy ! 

If You are lost: 3x[C] always returns to operation mode and You can start from the beginning


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## carl (Nov 27, 2008)

thanks to phantom, wingnut, and art for their answers regarding the delay between button press and the light coming on - it seems there is no delay now - maybe they made some improvements. 

question 1: do other lights like the hds or novatac have a delay?

question 2: since the lf5xt is much longer than the d10 due to the deeper reflector (comparing aa to aa model), why is the lf3xt and the ex10 closer in length to each other (comparing 123 to 123 model) - is it that the lf3xt does not have as deep a reflector as the lf5xt?

question 3: is there a battery drain while off?
question 4: should the body threads be coarser like the d10 and ex10 for added durability?


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## torpeau (Nov 27, 2008)

carl said:


> question 2: since the lf5xt is much longer than the d10 due to the deeper reflector (comparing aa to aa model), why is the lf3xt and the ex10 closer in length to each other (comparing 123 to 123 model) - is it that the lf3xt does not have as deep a reflector as the lf5xt?
> question 4: should the body threads be coarser like the d10 and ex10 for added durability?



2. The two LiteFlux reflectors look about equally deep to me. Of course, the diameter is bigger on the LF3XT. Deeper than on my EX10. 
4. I'd say the checkering is coarser than the EX10 and the LF5XT.

BTW, I haven't looked at the manual, but the default setting is easy enough to use. I guess I'll look at the manual if I need anything more complex.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 27, 2008)

the checkering is coarser but teh threads are finer. I don't se eteh threads as being fine enough to cause problems and there doesn't seem to be any chance of cross threading.

The CUI is great but once programmed the FUI is awesome!

I now have 5 programmed modes
Ultra Low 
Medium 
Medium High 
Full
75% double flash beacon

On top of that in any mode you can go direct to full power by pressing and holding the on button or direct to full power random strobe with a click and press hold.

It is in my opinion PERFECT. Now all I need is a twin AA body and a single AA version to be released to replace the LF5XT (I don't like the shape of the current one!).

I love this light :thumbsup:


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## WadeF (Nov 27, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> No, I want to sell it and I have a buyer. But before that I want to work it out because I'm adult and I don't like leave things unfinished. Besides it might be useful for others because as WadeF said - instructions are poor.


 
That's not what I said, I said:

"Often the first instructions are poorly translated, but it doesn't take long for someone on CPF to post clearer instructions. I certainly wouldn't get rid of a liteflux because I couldn't wait for someone to post better instructions."

I don't have my LF3XT yet, so I can't say if the included instructions are poor or not. I've often been able to figure out the included instructions, but some people (LIKE YOU) have trouble following them. Eventually people post more clear instructions for those who need to go through the programming while someone holds their hands.

Please don't take me out of context to continue your trolling. I didn't see any of your posts as asking for help, you were just trashing the light and had already told us you were selling it. That isn't asking for help.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 27, 2008)

Personally I like my most of my lights complex. So I really like Liteflux for it's programability and ability to set it up the way I like a light. And because it gives me something to 'play' with that is more than just a light that goes on and off. I like the challenge of figuring out eletronic gizmo's and enjoy the fun of discovering how they work. The thrill of getting something to produce an effect with a one-key keyboard is half the fun of flashlights like this. What seems odd to me at first is how someone can't figure out how to use a flashlight but they can use a computer. IMO this apparent paradox relates to ones level of desire to use a device. The old saying 'where there's a will there's a way' comes to mind. I don't think these lights are too complex for anyone using a computer rather I think there just are some who choose to have it as simple as possible or to be shown how to do something rather than investing the time to figure it out theirself. Some don't have the patience for either option so if it doesn't all snap right into place they are left frustrated. Venting that frustration here will probably only cause more frustration as I'm sure most of the people on this thread are really looking forward to having this highly customizable light. The 'keep it simple' versus very customizable has long been debated in many threads and it is a CHOICE for each of us to make. I choose having options - lots of options.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 27, 2008)

Not much has been said about the quality of the light output on the LF3XT. I wonder how the beam in the new light with its Q5 emitter compares to the LF5XT with the R2. Has LightFlux been able to smooth out all the usual Q5 artifacts and rings that most other Q5 lights have. Is its beam as smooth in transition from hot spot to spill as it is in the LF5XT?


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## orcinus (Nov 27, 2008)

AFAIK, the reflector is the same as in LF5XT but probably slightly wider, so the beam should be similar, except a bit wider.

The artifacts present in most Cree lights aren't inherent to Q5 or any other bin, nor even the particular emitter, but inadequate reflectors used in them. A Cree (any Cree) is just as free of artifacts as, say, a Rebel if mated with a reflector designed for a Cree (without cutting corners).

Crees seem to require much deeper reflectors compared to other emitters out there and that makes the lights longer. Flashlight producers try hard to make their lights as small as possible in this class and form factor (EDC, AA and CR123 lights), so they indeed do cut corners when designing optics for their flashlights. Hence the artifacts.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 27, 2008)

The only Q5 light I have come across with a smooth hotspot/spill transistion is the Fenix TK10, but that isn't such a compact light. (Can anybody think of any others?) I am therefore looking forward to the LX3FT doing the same thing in a small format.

I believe it was said elsewhere, that LiteFlux has managed to smooth out their beams, not just by providing the deeper reflector, but also by orange peeling the reflector to an extreme (4Sevens commented in another thread that he didn't feel the LF5XT reflector was made out of optical quality material - whatever that means). Nevertheless, you sure get a pretty beam with LiteFlux, whether at the expense of lesser throw compared to other similar lights. (Could it be for this reason, LiteFlux doesn't give specs regarding lumens? To their credit, instead of misleading us with emitter lumens which might be much less than out the front lumens, I applaud LiteFlux for not doing so. )


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## phantom23 (Nov 27, 2008)

Thanks 'Zefiryn', it took many posts and I was called troll before somebody helped me. WadeF - it does took quite long! 

About the beam. Two shots with LF3XT (left) and D10 (right), 45cm and 4 meters to the wall.


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## orcinus (Nov 27, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I believe it was said elsewhere, that LiteFlux has managed to smooth out their beams, not just by providing the deeper reflector, but also by orange peeling the reflector to an extreme (4Sevens commented in another thread that he didn't feel the LF5XT reflector was made out of optical quality material - whatever that means). Nevertheless, you sure get a pretty beam with LiteFlux, whether at the expense of lesser throw compared to other similar lights. (Could it be for this reason, LiteFlux doesn't give specs regarding lumens? To their credit, instead of misleading us with emitter lumens which might be much less than out the front lumens, I applaud LiteFlux for not doing so. )



4seven's comment meant (at least that's how i understood it) he thinks LF5XT's reflector hasn't been coated. Which isn't true - take a look at it at an angle and you'll see it has the typical bluish shine of a coated reflector.

Also, it wasn't very clear how he was trying it out, so i wouldn't put too much into his claims on brightness and throw. According to his own statements, it was at a show, in a lit environment and limited space. And it seems he didn't really try it out at 100% output, but 50%.

I know people tend to accept majority as the ultimate argument, but the fact that someone finally did an AA Cree light right doesn't mean that they're doing it wrong. It means that everyone else is.

Here's a comparison shot next to a NiteCore D10. Both with Lithium Ions, both freshly charged, both at 100%:






Note that the LF5XT's hotspot is actually tighter and brighter. It's just that the falloff to spill is so gentle the beam looks like one giant hotspot 
Also, even though the LF5XT's beam is overall tighter than most other lights in its class, it's so uniform it's actually more usable than much wider beams.


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## baterija (Nov 27, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> About the beam. Two shots with LF3XT (left) and D10 (right), 45cm and 4 meters to the wall.



Thanks for the shots. Looks like a similar beam pattern to the 5XT.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 27, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> Thanks 'Zefiryn', it took many posts and I was called troll before somebody helped me. WadeF - it does took quite long!
> 
> About the beam. Two shots with LF3XT (left) and D10 (right), 45cm and 4 meters to the wall.


 

Is it my imagination or just my monitor, but the LF3XT, compared to the D10, has a somewhat cold or blue tint? Is the D10 the GD version?


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## orcinus (Nov 27, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Is it my imagination or just my monitor, but the LF3XT, compared to the D10, has a somewhat cold or blue tint? Is the D10 the GD version?



I'm more concerned about the fact the beam looks nothing like LF5XT's 
And how come it's overall lower in output than D10?

Was it on 100%?


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## clintb (Nov 27, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> Thanks 'Zefiryn', it took many posts and I was called troll before somebody helped me. WadeF - it does took quite long!


All you had to do was ask for help and others, including myself, would be glad to lend an helping hand. When you start out by bashing a product, especially one that many are anxious to get their hands on, the tone is set to that of negativity.

I don't care if you keep the light or sell it; I know I'll be overjoyed to have such a flexible light for EDC duties. Next time, just ask for help. Check the thread started by me, and greatly expanded upon by Orcinus, where I simplified the LF5XT manual.

Heck, here ya go.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/202526&highlight=LF5XT+manual+simplified


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## clintb (Nov 27, 2008)

orcinus said:


> 4seven's comment meant (at least that's how i understood it) he thinks LF5XT's reflector hasn't been coated. Which isn't true - take a look at it at an angle and you'll see it has the typical bluish shine of a coated reflector.
> 
> Also, it wasn't very clear how he was trying it out, so i wouldn't put too much into his claims on brightness and throw. According to his own statements, it was at a show, in a lit environment and limited space. And it seems he didn't really try it out at 100% output, but 50%.
> 
> ...


orcinus,

Your beam shot perfectly illustrates why I love the LF5XT so much; it's more of a flood type pattern at close range. Once you point off in the distance though, it really throws! I'll have to compare side by side once I get the LF3XT, but I'm hoping it's pretty close to the LF5XT beam.


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## carl (Nov 27, 2008)

Great beam shots! Thanks for posting.

1) is the X-shaped tail end on the LF3XT better for some reason than the round tail of the LF5XT? There doesn't seem to be as much room for an oversize thumb on the X tail.


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## carl (Nov 27, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> (I don't like the shape of the current one!).


 What don't you like about the shape of the LF5XT? I assume you prefer a straight tube rather than rings cut into the tube like the current one?


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## juplin (Nov 27, 2008)

I just took the pictures of beam patterns of LF3XT and LF5XT a few minutes ago. Both beams were shot under Li-ion, 100% brightness, WB = Daylight, and EV = 0 .

LF3XT






LF5XT





For comparison, I also shot the beam pattern of my EX10 Q5 a few minutes ago, also under the conditions of Li-ion, 100% brightness, WB = Daylight, and EV = 0 .


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## orcinus (Nov 27, 2008)

Ah, so they are practically the same, but the LF3XT is slightly wider. As expected.
Nice!


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## wingnutLP (Nov 27, 2008)

carl said:


> What don't you like about the shape of the LF5XT? I assume you prefer a straight tube rather than rings cut into the tube like the current one?


yep, I don't really like the rings but... I ended up with a D10 rather than an LF5XT which I regret now I have an LF3XT. 

If LF don't replace the LF5XT with a light that has the UI and shape of the LF3XT and the form factor of the LT5XT in teh not too distant future I will definitely get one of the current LF5XT's.


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## juplin (Nov 27, 2008)

orcinus said:


> so they are practically the same, but the LF3XT is slightly wider. As expected.


Actually, the beam of LF3XT is around 20% wider than that of LF5XT.
The lighting distance of LF5XT is slightly further than that of LF3XT, as I shot before a white projection screen and the major purpose is to compare the beam patterns and tints of these flashlights. The same reason is applied to the beam pattern of EX10, but the lighting distance of EX10 is almost same as that of LF3XT since both lights have similar beam width.


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## phantom23 (Nov 27, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Is it my imagination or just my monitor, but the LF3XT, compared to the D10, has a somewhat cold or blue tint? Is the D10 the GD version?



D10 GD+ is cold as well. But no my LF3XT is very cold but not blueish at all. D10 is 'Magma' with Q5 and really nice tint.



orcinus said:


> And how come it's overall lower in output than D10?
> Was it on 100%?



Both on 100%, Liteflux with CR123A and D10 on 14500.


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## juplin (Nov 27, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> Both on 100%, Liteflux with CR123A and D10 on 14500.


The output of D10 using 14500 in the first 20 minutes is not regulated and has higher value, by referring to the reviews of selfbuilt.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2552601&postcount=1

On the other hand, the output of LF3XT using CR123A is regulated in the first 40 minutes, by referring to the review of light-reviews.com.
http://www.light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf3_xt/


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## phantom23 (Nov 27, 2008)

juplin said:


> On the other hand, the output of LF3XT using CR123A is regulated in the first 40 minutes, by referring to the review of light-reviews.com.
> http://www.light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf3_xt/



This is my LF3XT (not exactly mine).

14500 in D10 wasn't fresh off the charger.


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## wingnutLP (Nov 28, 2008)

With a little bit of dremelling you can open the fenix diffuser to fit the LF3XT. You only need to open the first bit so it still fits fenix lights


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## BabyDoc (Nov 28, 2008)

I would like to see who is going to be first to figure out how to adapt another light's clip to the LF3XT. I will need that a lot more than I will a diffuser.


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 28, 2008)

I agree BabyDoc. The clip will be an essential accessory. I really like the LF3 xt, but have not yet pulled the trigger, because of no clip. A few times I've almost clicked on the EX 10, because I'm afraid without a clip the LF3 will end up in the drawer. I may still give in to Liteflux and count on the boffins to come up with a clip.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Nov 28, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> I agree BabyDoc. The clip will be an essential accessory. I really like the LF3 xt, but have not yet pulled the trigger, because of no clip. A few times I've almost clicked on the EX 10, because I'm afraid without a clip the LF3 will end up in the drawer. I may still give in to Liteflux and count on the boffins to come up with a clip.
> 
> Geoff


 
I wasn't going to buy the LF3XT either, because of the missing clip issue, but went ahead anyway and ordered it. I trust the guys here to figure out a clip for this light, even if LiteFlux doesn't get the message and do it first. This light just looks too good to pass up just because of a missing clip. After all, I lived with the EX10 for quite a while before the clip became available. Although I prefer a clip, the P2D sheath worked with the EX10 and hopefully it will, temporarily, with the LF3XT.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

phantom23 said:


> D10 GD+ is cold as well. But no my LF3XT is very cold but not blueish at all. D10 is 'Magma' with Q5 and really nice tint.
> 
> 
> 
> Both on 100%, Liteflux with CR123A and D10 on 14500.



Just as a note most lights will be a bit brighter running on 3.6 volt rechargeables like the 14500 than on a primary CR123A. When doing beam shot comparisons I like to see lights running on the same voltage if they are capable. 

I'll try to do some beam shots myself later since I got the LF3XT.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

Has anyone received their LF3XT with a couple brass looking spacers? They are roughly an 1/8" thick and about the diameter of a CR123. I'm not sure what these are for unless you've got an extra short battery. I'm assuming the LF3XT does not have a tap off issue like the first LF5XT's had as that was fixed long before the LF3XT's came out. I've got one coming from Khoo also but this one came from EliteLed.com - lightning fast shipping BTW.


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## torpeau (Nov 28, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> Has anyone received their LF3XT with a couple brass looking spacers? They are roughly an 1/8" thick and about the diameter of a CR123. I'm not sure what these are for unless you've got an extra short battery. I'm assuming the LF3XT does not have a tap off issue like the first LF5XT's had as that was fixed long before the LF3XT's came out.



No brassy spacers or tap-off issue with mine.


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## WadeF (Nov 28, 2008)

Just picked up my LF3XT from the post office. Initial impressions, I like the UI options. I kind of like the CUI as it's similar to the Nitecore/D10. I like that it has a lower low than my EX10/D10. The fit and finish looks great and it tail stands well. The beam looks good. My only complaint so far is the beam is very cold, even when requesting a nuetral warm tint. It is even colder than my EX10 GDP. However, when using it your eyes adjust to it and you only really notice it when comparing it with other LED's. 

I'd like to see Liteflux offer these with a Cree Q3 5A.  

I also like the fact it's instant on without the delay the LF5XT has. Switching between CUI and FUI is pretty slick too. 

I think if this becomes my EDC I will normally use it on CUI, set to come on in min. low. I can easily ramp up or jump to max if I need more light. Knowing FUI is only 5xC+PH to get strobes, SOS, beacons, etc, if needed, is nice.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

It might be possible these brass spacers were intended for my LF5XT since I had requested some from Liteflux but they never were received. I did by one of the LF5XT's from EliteLED.com so maybe they had that recorded and just sent them along with this light. That all seems a bit unlikely but I have been impressed with the level of customer service from EliteLED also. Both Khoo (LED Cool) and EliteLED seem like top notch dealers.


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## WadeF (Nov 28, 2008)

Haha, I just let my 5 year old check out the LF3XT and I had it so it would just come on in min. So he turned it on, in min, with it pointed at me. No problem looking right into the emitter. Then all of the sudden it went 100% as he must have done a click+PH! Haha. Only took my 5 year old 2 seconds to figure out how to switch to full power.


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## pyromaniac (Nov 28, 2008)

> Has anyone received their LF3XT with a couple brass looking spacers?


Do they have a bevel on one side?
Than maybe they belong to the inner switch parts of the LF3 XT.


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 28, 2008)

I'm glad to hear EliteLED has good service. I think I'd rather buy from them where a need for return would be easier. Do they have a coupon code these days?

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Nov 28, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> I'm glad to hear EliteLED has good service. I think I'd rather buy from them where a need for return would be easier. Do they have a coupon code these days?
> 
> Geoff


 

Indeed EliteLED gives great service. My order was placed on 11/25 and shipped out immediately. My wife tells me the light is now waiting at home for me. That is pretty amazing considering it came from California to Ohio over the Thanksgiving holiday is already here. I can't wait to get home.

I couldn't find a CFP coupon code to enter.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

I don't have the spacers with me at the moment and don't recall if they have a bevel. I guess they could be spare parts but the light worked perfectly. They were not inside the Liteflux box but were rather wrapped up with two included CR123 batteries.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

I just spent the last hour or so taking the LF3XT manual and modifying it. I first removed all the Chinese instructions. I converted it to pure text and took out all the double spacing in the text as well as various double spacing between words. I corrected some grammer and spelling and saved everything as a text only file. This reduces it to about 10 kilobytes instead of around 325 kilobytes in PDF format. I like to do this for simplified reading and it allows me to have the manual accessible on almost any kind of computer, palmtop or anywhere I can read text and saves space when I put it on my Flash drive for backup. If anyone wants this I assume I can post it here or I may put it up on a web site somewhere. I found the original manual a bit hard to read with all the large fonts and double spacing. I think most people would like this for easier reading. I haven't fine tuned it yet but it's much better IMO than it was. I'm trying to decide now how to post it. I think I could copy and paste it here but it might lose some of the formatting. It was done in Windows Notepad so formatting should be good for nearly anyone.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

Here is the easiest way I could see to make this available. It's on Google docs in this link and is accessible by anyone: Link to LF3XT manual  You can easily copy and paste this. I'm going to assume Liteflux is okay with this as I think it helps people understand the programming better and makes it easier to read for most as well as more accessible. If there is any concern about this I'll delete it but I can't imagine that would be any problem.


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## clintb (Nov 28, 2008)

matrixshaman,

If you want to include a link to my simplified LF5XT manual in yours, that would be cool.

https://docs.google.com/Edit?tab=view&docid=ddqw2swj_3fk8gc9dn


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

clintb said:


> matrixshaman,
> 
> If you want to include a link to my simplified LF5XT manual in yours, that would be cool.
> 
> https://docs.google.com/Edit?tab=view&docid=ddqw2swj_3fk8gc9dn



Thanks clintb - it's done. :thumbsup:


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

I'm doing a little fine tuning now on the manual so if you got it before now you might grab another copy or wait another few minutes until I've gone through it completely. There were still things needed to be fixed. BTW it's best to copy and paste it from that link once you have the page open. Pasting it into Notepad works good.

Edit : Ok as of 4:15 PM Eastern time it's largely done with fine tuning added. I could still probably do a bit more but I think it's good to go for now.


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## WadeF (Nov 28, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> Here is the easiest way I could see to make this available. It's on Google docs in this link and is accessible by anyone: Link to LF3XT manual You can easily copy and paste this. I'm going to assume Liteflux is okay with this as I think it helps people understand the programming better and makes it easier to read for most as well as more accessible. If there is any concern about this I'll delete it but I can't imagine that would be any problem.


 
Thanks matrixshaman! I was going to attemp this myself, but you have saved me thetrouble. :twothumbs


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## clintb (Nov 28, 2008)

Argh! Damn all of you who already have your light. Ok, maybe not. I'm actually happy for you and maybe I'll get mine on Monday. Funny, because I pre-ordered before Khoo even put up the thread. Oh well.

At least I have my AlTiN Draco to keep me company on a slow work day.


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## WadeF (Nov 28, 2008)

Clintb, you get mail on Saturday don't you? There's always hope for a Saturday delivery.  I had to sign for mine though, so they didn't leave it at my house, just a note that I had to come get it at the post office.


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## torpeau (Nov 28, 2008)

*Does it draw current when not on?*



matrixshaman said:


> I just spent the last hour or so taking the LF3XT manual and modifying it.



Thanks for the work on their manual!

These light manufacturers make a serious mistake by writing their manuals in near-gibberish. Why don't they hire someone like orcinus to do it for them?

When native English-speakers have difficulty understanding their English, what about all those folks who try to read their English, but aren't fluent in the language?

I'm still curious -- does the LF3XT draw any current when not lit? Maybe that's somewhere in the manual?


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## clintb (Nov 28, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Clintb, you get mail on Saturday don't you? There's always hope for a Saturday delivery.  I had to sign for mine though, so they didn't leave it at my house, just a note that I had to come get it at the post office.


I had mine delivered to work, and since this is an official company holiday, no deliveries. No Saturday delivery either. Oh well, Monday it is.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

Got bored as it's too rainy outside to do work I wanted to do so I jumped back on doing some more revisions on the LF3XT manual as it was still fairly rough in spots. It's been updated on Google Docs again. Link in my message above will get you the updated one. 
clintb - I used to have stuff delivered at work until some goober kept my mail for a couple days without delivering it to me. They also would open everyone's mail even if it came by USPS it got opened and checked to make sure it was not being charged to the state. I didn't think that was even legal but needless to say I quit sending stuff to work. 

At least when it arrives you'll have the instructions about memorized


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## clintb (Nov 28, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> clintb - I used to have stuff delivered at work until some goober kept my mail for a couple days without delivering it to me. They also would open everyone's mail even if it came by USPS it got opened and checked to make sure it was not being charged to the state. I didn't think that was even legal but needless to say I quit sending stuff to work.
> 
> At least when it arrives you'll have the instructions about memorized


Something tells me the shipping department where I work wouldn't mess with packages. The whole motto of "Don't be evil" and all. Besides, I've had quite a few lights, and other stuff, delivered here.


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## WadeF (Nov 28, 2008)

*Re: Does it draw current when not on?*



torpeau said:


> I'm still curious -- does the LF3XT draw any current when not lit? Maybe that's somewhere in the manual?


 
I would guess it does, but it's such a small drain I wouldn't worry about it unless you plan on storing the light for over a year or more with a battery in it, and even then a CR123 should be fine.


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## OrlandoLights (Nov 28, 2008)

Would AW's IMR16340 battery work well in this light?


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## Burgess (Nov 28, 2008)

to WadeF --


Your son sounds like a Bright little boy !



:goodjob:
_


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## WadeF (Nov 28, 2008)

OrlandoLights said:


> Would AW's IMR16340 battery work well in this light?


 
They should be okay as long as you have the LF3XT's over discharge protection enabled. 

IMR16340's Lowest Discharge Voltage : 2.50V

To be safe you could set the LF3XT to the R123 mode so it cuts off at 3.0V. 

the AW R123's may have more capacity?


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## matrixshaman (Nov 28, 2008)

clintb said:


> Something tells me the shipping department where I work wouldn't mess with packages. The whole motto of "Don't be evil" and all. Besides, I've had quite a few lights, and other stuff, delivered here.


Yeah I didn't mean to say it's a bad idea to have stuff delivered at work - in fact that's better for a lot of people than home delivery. Just relaying my own experience which was frustrating in it's own way. BTW did you find info in the tracking Khoo sent you that said it was in the U.S. or close by?


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## WadeF (Nov 28, 2008)

Having fun with my LF3XT.  I just programmed it to enable low discharge protection, even though I'm using a protected battery, figured I'd be extra safe. I'm not using the FUI, and I quickly reprogrammed mode 1, 2, and 3. 1 being min. low, 2 being a low, and 3 being medium. Then I can burst to high when needed with a press and hold. I left mode 4 beacon and mode 5 SOS for now. On my LF5XT I set it for just 3 modes. 

I love the 5 clicks for a voltage report. 4 clicks and I can switch between momentary mode and regular mode. 5 clicks and a press and hold to get back to CUI for a EX10/D10 style UI (but slightly different). 

Wish it had a warmer tint, but this might become my EDC.


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 29, 2008)

Couldn't resist any longer. Pulled the string earlier today, and it's already been shipped. I'm hoping for maybe a Tuesday arrival. Really looking forward to goofing with all the features. I don't expect the learning curve to be too steep. As long as the basic modes are readily available I'm quite happy to have a bunch of other features, even if it is a bit confusing.

Geoff


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## wingnutLP (Nov 29, 2008)

one question still bugs me, when in function setting mode how do I exit and return to normal operation saving the settings? 

Or as I suspect is the case are the changes saved when I go back from specific function mode setting to the function selection mode?

So when I get back here:


"Function Setting Mode:
1. Indicated Signal: Every time you go into function setting mode it will always be in the first mode.
Reserved for the future: flash 1 time, 2 seconds blank and repeat.
Rechargeable battery over-discharge protection: flash 2 times, 2 seconds blank and repeat.
Mode number setting: flash 3 times, 2 seconds blank and repeat.
Reset function: flash 4 times, 2 seconds blank and repeat.
Memory function: flash 5 times, 2 seconds blank and repeat.
2. 1xC: Next function mode.
3. 2xC: Previous function mode.
4. 3xC: Exit & back to Main operation mode without saving.
5. 3xC + PH: Current function mode entry."


Are the settings I have changed already saved and do I just 3C because I saved the changes the step before?

If that is the case then the line that reads:



"4. 3xC: Exit & back to Main operation mode without saving."


would be clearer as:


"4. 3xC: Exit & back to Main operation mode."

As there is nothing to save at all in that part of the function setting.

Alex


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## Zefiryn (Nov 29, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> one question still bugs me, when in function setting mode how do I exit and return to normal operation saving the settings?
> 
> So when I get back here:
> 
> ...



If You have already changed some settings and went back to function setting mode by clicking 3x[C]+PH, means that NOW setting has been saved, and than 3x[C] returns back to main operation mode,

But remeber, 3x[C] in any function settings change mode returns back to main operation mode without saving

so, for instance while changing mode numbers, You are lost or decided not to do any changes 3x[C] returns You right back to main operation mode.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 29, 2008)

As I get more familiar with how things actually work I'll try to revise the manual further. I'd say for now if you have made changes it's best to do 3xC + PH to exit anything or all modes until you are completely out of any programming. Even after revising the manual quite a bit yesterday I was still not clear on a number of things since I had not spent time yet trying them with the light. When I finally got around to programming everything last night it still seemed a bit cryptic and not well organized. I might try doing some more as time allows but I'll bet orcinus would do best at that. Maybe even a flow chart? orcinus where are you?


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## orcinus (Nov 29, 2008)

Over here, but a bit busy...
And i don't have an LF3XT 

Anyways, isn't LF3XT's FUI (almost) exactly the same as LF5XT's UI?


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## Dan C (Nov 29, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> I'd say for now if you have made changes it's best to do 3xC + PH to exit anything or all modes until you are completely out of any programming.



If it's like the LF5XT, this won't work when in the function setting mode. You do a 3xC then PH to enter the mode you want to change, and after you have adjusted the setting as desired, do a 3xC+PH to save it. If you do it again you are just going to enter the mode again. You have to do a 3xC to exit after you have 'saved' it.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 29, 2008)

orcinus said:


> Over here, but a bit busy...
> And i don't have an LF3XT
> 
> Anyways, isn't LF3XT's FUI (almost) exactly the same as LF5XT's UI?



Wow - no LF3XT yet?  you must be slacking :laughing: 

It is similar but has some additional new features including the CUI. It's actually been awhile since I did much with the LF5XT - once I got it programmed I just left it like it was and don't yet have everything memorized with it. I wouldn't give up my LF5XT but the new LF3XT is really more my style and I think it may take over as primary EDC. I haven't been this excited about a light since HDS first came out with their Ultimate 60. 
Anyway no problem on the flowchart or manual - I'm just razzing you. But I do think you'd like this light


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## matrixshaman (Nov 29, 2008)

Dan C said:


> If it's like the LF5XT, this won't work when in the function setting mode. You do a 3xC then PH to enter the mode you want to change, and after you have adjusted the setting as desired, do a 3xC+PH to save it. If you do it again you are just going to enter the mode again. You have to do a 3xC to exit after you have 'saved' it.



Ah I think you are right! Thanks for pointing that out Dan C. I'm still trying to get time to get more familiar with it. Once I feel I've really got it down solid I may do some major revisions on the manual as it's still fairly difficult to understand in spots - at least it's not crystal clear due to the translation. I think most people can work through it but it could be improved.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 29, 2008)

wingnutLP said:


> one question still bugs me, when in function setting mode how do I exit and return to normal operation saving the settings?
> 
> Or as I suspect is the case are the changes saved when I go back from specific function mode setting to the function selection mode?
> 
> ...


 

I find this a very confusing portion of the manual. First of all, I think calling it Function Mode makes it confusing. It would be a lot clearer to call it the Function Alteration Menu. Within this Menu you can select any one of 5 functions that have alteration possibilities: 1) to be announce in the future 2) Battery Protection options 3) Setting Number of operating light modes from 1 to 5., 4) Factory default reset 5) Last light operation mode retained in memory for next power on mode.

You really never save anything within the function menu. You merely choose a function in the list, moving between items with 1C. When you arrive at a function in the list you wish to possibly alter, you press 3C+H to select it. That gets you into a submenu with that functions possible alteration choicess. By pressing 1C you toggle between the possible alteration choices. Once you get an alteration you want, you press 3C+H again. That choice is saved, and you are automatically put back into the Main Function Alteration Menu at the same point in the list where you were before you pressed 3C+H the first time.* You can then 1C to move to another choice in the Function Menu and select another function to alter, or you can do a 3C to get out of the Function Alteration Menu and back into the operation light mode you were before you started these function alterations. 
*(a 3C at this point exits you from this function without saving any alteration you might have made, and exits you directly from both this function submenu and from the function alteration menu back to the light operation mode you were at before)

It's helpful to remember that any time you are within any menu or mode that give you setting choices, a 3C is an exit without save.
If you do a 3C+H, it can do one of two things. If you have made an alteration of an existing setting, it will save that setting and exit you from that setting or function submenu. If you are in a list or menu of possible function choices to select for alteration, doing a 3C+H is like pressing an enter key;.ie., it enters you into a submenu with possible alteration choices for that function.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 29, 2008)

I got my LF3XT from EliteLED yesterday. If I were to give a review in one word, it would be WOW!. But I will elaborate just a little.

I love everything about this light. Imagine a EX10 with a button that doesn't kill you thumb. Imagine an EX10 that can be operated and ramped just using your index finger, never making a mistake and jumping modes. Imagine an EX10 that retains its user defined mode in memory, and doesn't lose it when you switch to instant high or low. Imagine a beam that is uniform in tint and smooth as butter, more uniform and smooth than even a GD plus EX10. OK it isn't warm, but it isn't blue either. No matter what setting, 0.2% or 100% the beam stays pure white, unlike my Novatac p120 which gets somewhat purple on its lowest settings. And speaking about lowest settings, there isn't a hint of a flicker. It is so neat to be able to always check on the battery status under operational load or easily toggle into Tactical Mode.

The Full Function Interface, while not intuitive, does make sense to me even with the poorly translated instructions. (Its operation is almost exactly like the LF5XT with only a few minor differences) I learned the LF3XT within about 15 minutes. With its 3 well chosen default modes of 0.2 percent, 50 percent and 100 percent, I will probably use the light in the Compact User mode, particularly since I can ramp the light to any light level I need. On the rare occasion, I might need strobe or SOS, it is easy enough to get into the full function interface to access them. I therefore will probably not even play with the full function operation mode defaults like I had with the LF5XT.


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## h2oflyer (Nov 29, 2008)

Just ordered the LF3XT from Khoo - should have read all
the posts - didn't know about EliteLED - I'll just have to
wait.

Love my NDI Silver & NEX , but decided to stay away from
the EX10 & D10 because of piston switch problems.

Cancelled my pre-order on the RA Clicky - it ended up downgraded
from what I originally ordered.

Last light I bought was a BitZ and I hope the LF3XT has same build
quality and performance.

It's now time to buy a micro computer with morse code single key
entry attached to a flashlight ! 

Can't wait to get it.


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## NetKidz (Nov 29, 2008)

WadeF said:


> They should be okay as long as you have the LF3XT's over discharge protection enabled.
> 
> IMR16340's Lowest Discharge Voltage : 2.50V
> 
> ...


 
Yes. IMR works fine.  Be sure to turn on the over-discharge protection, otherwise it may be damaged by over-discharged. IMR works better with high discharge current, and AW R123 has longer runtime for lower current (level). Anyway, the discharge current isn't high enough to take advantage of IMR.

I've done some runtime test for my LF3XT. The tests were done in FUI.

Batteries used:





From left: SANYO CR123A (old stock) / AW R123 (LiCo) / AW IMR-16340 (LiMn) / Anser 17345 (LiFePO4)

Battery over-discharge protection is ON for rechargeables and OFF for CR123A. The sudden drop near the end is the low voltage warning, but the sampling period is not tight enough to capture the full warning. :nana:

Runtime for 100%/50%/15%


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## BabyDoc (Nov 30, 2008)

I love the light, but I have notice a couple of peculiarities about the light. If you operate the light in the Tactical Momentary mode using the CUI, it operates with the last used mode and not necessiarly, default user defined mode as it must when turning the light on without momentary. What's neat about this is as follows: say the last used mode was the shortcut low mode before you turned off the light, and you ramped the low mode up to about 20 percent before turning off the light. When you do a tactical momentary on, the light will be in that low mode at 20 percent, remembering that it was at a 20 percent level before you turned it off. (Ordinarily, there is no memory for any ramping in shortcut low or shortcut high modes). When you do a brief Click to turn the light on to constant, the light flashes once at that 20 percent level, and turns constant on in the user defined mode. Of course, now going back to short cut low, the memory of the 20 percent level is lost. The practical application for this that I can think of is being able to keep the user defined mode at one setting, and still being able to use temporary at another preselected light level.


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## OrlandoLights (Nov 30, 2008)

Thanks for the charts, NetKidz, very helpful. I'm ordering the IMR's today, and getting the LF3XT for Christmas. :twothumbs


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## matrixshaman (Nov 30, 2008)

Netkidz - thanks for the runtime charts! That is interesting that the IMR gets better runtime on 100% setting. While I know it's better on high power draws I still would not have expected it to do better than the regular black label AW batteries. I think I may order a couple more IMR's  

BabyDoc - glad you like the LF3XT as I've seen you are quite picky about your lights. I do think we've got a real winner in this light!


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## Flying Turtle (Nov 30, 2008)

Thanks for all the tips, BabyDoc. It's going to make it easier for me to get up to speed. My latest tracking info indicated I might just have delivery tomorrow. Not bad considering it left San Jose on Friday.

Geoff


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## Thujone (Nov 30, 2008)

In the CUI while in tactical mode I am seeing an oddity also. It seems that if turned off in low after about ten seconds the light reverts to the user defined mode rather than low. Inside of ten seconds it stays in the mode it was turned off with. Strange.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 30, 2008)

Thujone said:


> In the CUI while in tactical mode I am seeing an oddity also. It seems that if turned off in low after about ten seconds the light reverts to the user defined mode rather than low. Inside of ten seconds it stays in the mode it was turned off with. Strange.


 
Thujone, you are right! I didn't notice that when I posted before. Oh, well, there goes any potential advantage of a rampable low or high mode retained in memory for tactical momentary use.:sigh:


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## BabyDoc (Nov 30, 2008)

Here are some other tips regarding setting of each of the operation modes brightness levels in the Full Function Interface.
To enter the setting mode for the light level you wish to alter, press 3C+H while in the mode you wish to change.

1. If you are going to alter all 5 light modes, it's easier before going into the setting mode, to go into the Function Alteration Menu (Function Mode) with a 4C+H, select the 5 th function to change, and disable the memory of the last used mode. Doing so will let you toggle through each light mode in sequence starting with mode 1 when you turn on the light. By counting modes after turning on the light, you will know exactly which mode you are working on before you make an alteration. 

2. After setting each of the modes the way you want, you then can re-enable the memory if you wish.

3. You can eyeball the brightness level change you wish for any mode, or you can set the level to an exact percentage of total output. The latter, while more difficult, is made possible by taking advantage of 3 features on the light: 1) Doing course brightness increases and decreases by using 1C and 2C once in the setting mode 2) Once you are in the ballpark of the level you want with the coarse adjustments, fine adjustments are done with a very slow ramping that can be done by a 1C+H (up) or 2C+H (down), again in the setting mode. NOTE: this ramping speed is MUCH SLOWER than what you have seen ramping do in the CUI. Therefore, only use this for fine adjustments to the coarse setting you did in the preceding step 2). Each time you make a slight change, check what any adjustment (coarse or fine) has done by doing a 5C in the setting mode. This will give you a brightness report or readout of the mode you are adjusting. By repeatedly ramping up and down slowly and seeing what brightness level you have achieved with the 5C readout, you can arrive at an exact brightness setting (e.g. 75 percent output). Once you arrive at the brightness you want, you do a 3C+H to save that setting, and exit back to that operation mode for that level you just changed. Alternatively, if at this point you wish to change that changed constant brightness level to a different type of output, such as beacon, strobe, or SOS, don't save the setting yet. Rather go onto tip 4.

4. With the brightness level of your constant mode adjusted the way you want, you can change the constant output to a beacon, strobe, or SOS by doing a PH and release. Each PH + release will toggle you to the different output types. When you get one you like, before you save it, you can do further adjustments in terms of frequency by entering a 4C command. This toggles you to submenu for strobe or beacon output types/frequencies. After pressing 4C there is no signal flash to let you know you are in that submenu. The only way you know you are there is to issue additional toggle commands: 1C or 2C to move you forward or backwards in a display of possible beacon or strobe output options. Once you get the type of beacon or strobe display you want, do a 4C to toggle out of this submenu to the main setting mode (again no signal flash to tell you where you are). At this point do a 3C+H to save your final beacon or strobe setting and you will then exit the setting mode to the operation mode, now with a beacon, or strobe frequency at a brightness level you selected. 

5. Remember any time you are in the setting mode, if you don't want the alterations you made to be saved, but rather want that mode to look like you hadn't messed with it, DO NOT do a 3C+H. Instead, do a 3C. You will exit the setting mode and return to the operation mode with its original unaltered settings.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 30, 2008)

BabyDoc - thanks for all those clearer instructions. Would you like me to add those to the modified manual I made available above in Google Docs (with credit to you)? There is one very small change I would make to your instructions and that would be to retain the notation 'PH' for press and hold rather than just 'H' as you now have in the instructions. That would stick with the definitions in the manual and might prevent any confustion over the 'H' as being taken as simply a hold rather than press and hold. In other words 3C +H might be taken as 3 clicks and hold on the third click rather than 3 clicks and then press once more but hold it down.


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## BabyDoc (Nov 30, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> BabyDoc - thanks for all those clearer instructions. Would you like me to add those to the modified manual I made available above in Google Docs (with credit to you)? There is one very small change I would make to your instructions and that would be to retain the notation 'PH' for press and hold rather than just 'H' as you now have in the instructions. That would stick with the definitions in the manual and might prevent any confustion over the 'H' as being taken as simply a hold rather than press and hold. In other words 3C +H might be taken as 3 clicks and hold on the third click rather than 3 clicks and then press once more but hold it down.


 
By all means, if you wish to use my tips, go ahead. Change any notations you think may make it clearer.


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## baterija (Nov 30, 2008)

Now that there's some people with both the LF5XT and the 3XT, I'd be interested in comparisons of the low. 1% versus .2% sounds good but it's not necessarily an apples to apples comparison. The driver has different max currents in the 5XT between Nimh and Li-ion. I'm assuming the 3XT uses the higher lithium drive currents. 

Any assessment of 1% on Nimh in the 5XT vs .2% on the 3XT?


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## BabyDoc (Nov 30, 2008)

baterija said:


> Now that there's some people with both the LF5XT and the 3XT, I'd be interested in comparisons of the low. 1% versus .2% sounds good but it's not necessarily an apples to apples comparison. The driver has different max currents in the 5XT between Nimh and Li-ion. I'm assuming the 3XT uses the higher lithium drive currents.
> 
> Any assessment of 1% on Nimh in the 5XT vs .2% on the 3XT?


 
The 0.2 percent low on the LF3XT appears SIGNIFICANTLY lower than the 1% low on the LF5XT. I am using lithium rechargables in both lights, 14500 in the LF5XT and R123 in the LF3XT. Perhaps somebody can post side-by-side beam shots of these lights set at their lowest low, so you could see the difference. The 0.2 percent low on the LF3XT also appears lower than the lowest low on the EX10.:twothumbs


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## matrixshaman (Nov 30, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> By all means, if you wish to use my tips, go ahead. Change any notations you think may make it clearer.



Thanks! It's been added and updated.


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## WadeF (Nov 30, 2008)

LF3XT's low is about the same as my LF2 SSC. The LF2 has a floodier beam, so it appears lower, but the total amount of light coming out of them is pretty close.


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## matrixshaman (Nov 30, 2008)

baterija said:


> Now that there's some people with both the LF5XT and the 3XT, I'd be interested in comparisons of the low. 1% versus .2% sounds good but it's not necessarily an apples to apples comparison. The driver has different max currents in the 5XT between Nimh and Li-ion. I'm assuming the 3XT uses the higher lithium drive currents.
> 
> Any assessment of 1% on Nimh in the 5XT vs .2% on the 3XT?



I just put a NiMH into the LF5XT for you and put it on the lowest low. The LF5XT is still brighter than the lowest low on the LF3XT. It's quite a noticeable difference. I also tried comparing the LF3XT to the lowest low on a Novatac. It looks like the Novatac still has a little bit lower low but they are both very low. The lowest setting on the Novatac is supposed to be 0.08 Lumens. I'm guessing that the LF3XT is somewhere between 0.1 and 0.2 Lumens based on that and another Novatac I have set around level 3 or 4 which is either 0.17 or 0.23 Lumens and the LF3XT was lower than that Novatac.


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## StandardBattery (Nov 30, 2008)

Hi, This looks like an interesting light. I have a couple very basic questions never having had a LiteFlux before.

1. Can the Min and Max levels be programmed for the simplified CUI mode? Maybe set them in FUI and have them reflected in CUI?

2. If last mode memory is turned off in FUI, does it also affect CUI, so that user-mode always starts at 50%?

Thanks!


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## juplin (Dec 1, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> 1. Can the Min and Max levels be programmed for the simplified CUI mode? Maybe set them in FUI and have them reflected in CUI?


The level of User Mode in CUI is the level that you ramp up or ramp down to. If you ramp up (or down) to the Max (or Min) in CUI, the Max (or Min) level will be memorized (i.e. programmed). 



StandardBattery said:


> 2. If last mode memory is turned off in FUI, does it also affect CUI, so that user-mode always starts at 50%?


If last mode memory is turned off in FUI, it will not affect CUI.
For example, after the last mode memory has been turned off in FUI, if the level of User Mode in CUI is set to 30%, the User Mode will start at 30% instead of 50%.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 1, 2008)

Darn - I wish I had the time to do a full review on this light. It is indeed an interesting light! Let me say this - after over 2 years since Cree came out with the XR-E LED that shook things up in a big way who was the first company to get a completely ringless totally smooth beam pattern from the Cree XR-E? 
----------
Here's a news flash - the Cree XR-E does NOT have rings! It was just incorrect reflector design by everyone else all this time.
----------
Unless I've missed something on this and I don't think that's likely then that would be LiteFlux who has created the first correct reflector for the Cree XR-E LED. They have a genius in the company! Just that fact alone makes this THE light to own. Not to mention the great switch, awesome User Interface and highly customizable settings. Can you tell I'm having trouble deciding if I like this light or not ...


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## BabyDoc (Dec 1, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> Hi, This looks like an interesting light. I have a couple very basic questions never having had a LiteFlux before.
> 
> 1. Can the Min and Max levels be programmed for the simplified CUI mode? Maybe set them in FUI and have them reflected in CUI?
> 
> ...


 
The 2 interfaces are entirely separate, EXCEPT for the following:

1. If you set battery protection ON in the FUI, it also sets it ON for the the CUI.
2. If you set Tactical Momentary on or off in either interface, it sets it the same way in both interfaces. For example, if the Tactical Momentary is set to ON in either the CUI or the FUI, it is set to ON at the same time in the other interface. Once set to on in either interface, unless you do another 4C to toggle OFF the momentary, tactical momentary stays on even when switching between the interfaces.
3. When you are in the FUI and then switch to the CUI (5C+PH), the CUI's user defined mode is reset to the default 50 percent output. In other words, if your user defined mode in the CUI was set at anything but 50 percent, you would lose that setting when you switched into the FUI and then switched back to the CUI.
4. When you are in the FUI and enter the Fuction Mode and do a Factory reset, in addition to resetting the FUI to the factory defaults, it resets the CUI to its original default settings including Tactical Momentary off and battery protection off.


Other than these 4 items, making alterations in either interface, does not affect the operation of the other interface. Therefore, setting last mode memory off in the FUI, does not have an effect on the user defined memory mode in the CUI. 

*Useful Tip*: If you want to keep the user defined mode always at 50 percent, never ramp in the user defined mode. Instead use your Min or Max shortcut modes to ramp to any other outputs you need. Because ramping levels in MIN or Max modes are not retained in memory, if you never ramp the user defined mode, you can always keep your user defined mode at 50 percent. In the event you accidentally ramp and change your user defined mode, you can reset the user defined mode back to the default 50 percent by switching to the FUI and then back to the CUI. (You do not need to do a full function mode factory default reset. ) That erases any setting you previously had in the user defined mode and resets the mode to 50 percent.


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## Gatsby (Dec 1, 2008)

Can someone who has an LF3XT and a Novatac post a size comparison picture?

Getting very close to pulling the trigger on this light....


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## matrixshaman (Dec 1, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> Can someone who has an LF3XT and a Novatac post a size comparison picture?
> 
> Getting very close to pulling the trigger on this light....



I can try later but the LF3XT is just a little smaller in diameter - maybe an 1/8" or so and I think almost the same length but if any difference in length it would be shorter. I'd say it's very close in size to a Fenix P2D if you have one of those.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 1, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> Darn - Unless I've missed something on this and I don't think that's likely then that would be LiteFlux who has created the first correct reflector for the Cree XR-E LED.


 

Actually, the TK10 does just as well with a Q5 Cree XR-E as far as having a smooth beam with no artifacts. I would say, however, that the LF3XT is probably the first single cell CR123 light to do as well.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 1, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> Can someone who has an LF3XT and a Novatac post a size comparison picture?
> 
> Getting very close to pulling the trigger on this light....


 
I wouldn't even hesitate to order this light. It is that good! It feels much smaller in my pocket than the Novatac. IMO, the anodizing on the LF3XT is much better, too, compared to my black p120. The LF3XT is a bargain not only because of its price, but it is like having a p120 interface and a EX10 interface, all in one light. Just select the interface you want. (The size of the light is somewhere in between the two.) The beam on the LF3XT is much better than the EX10 (even the GD plus), and maybe a bit smoother than even the beam on the P120. The only significant negative with the LF3XT compared to the other two lights, is the lack of a clip accessory. Hopefully, somebody here will figure a solution for that lack, if LiteFlux doesn't come forth with one.


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## juplin (Dec 1, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> The only significant negative with the LF3XT compared to the other two lights, is the lack of a clip accessory.


The clip that lies on LF3XT is the clip taken apart from the utility knife below.





The size and shape of this clip match with the upper portion of LF3XT well. The only trouble with me is to find a way to firmly attach this clip to LF3XT. :mecry:


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks to Matrixshaman and Babydoc for their work on the manual, that refreshened my interest in the light... :huh:

I read the "new" manuals, but I didn't study them yet. As the light looks so great, I'll conqur my fear of the FUI and place an order, if the answers to my questions will satisfy my needs. Only say YES or NO, I can now look for the details and the how-to-do myself because of your great help :

- I want the 5 modes. Can I program them starting at the low end and gradually go up to 100%?
- Will the light start at the mode I switch it off?
- The tactical function : is it in the last used mode that the light starts?
- Is there a danger I accidentely change the brightness of a mode?
- Is the ramping available in FUI?
- Are the Low and the High directly availabe in the FUI?

I want to use the FUI and program the light in a way it gets as easy as it can be with 5 modes.

Thanks for your patience, :thumbsup:

Henk


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## Gatsby (Dec 1, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I wouldn't even hesitate to order this light. It is that good! It feels much smaller in my pocket than the Novatac. IMO, the anodizing on the LF3XT is much better, too, compared to my black p120. The LF3XT is a bargain not only because of its price, but it is like having a p120 interface and a EX10 interface, all in one light. Just select the interface you want. (The size of the light is somewhere in between the two.) The beam on the LF3XT is much better than the EX10 (even the GD plus), and maybe a bit smoother than even the beam on the P120. The only significant negative with the LF3XT compared to the other two lights, is the lack of a clip accessory. Hopefully, somebody here will figure a solution for that lack, if LiteFlux doesn't come forth with one.



That's good to know as my only complaint with my Novatac (or the HDS and Arc4+ I previously owned) is the size - not the most comfortable in a business casual daily work environment, so I've been looking for similar functionality in a smaller package. Oh that there was a CR2 and AA version (I know there is the LF5XT but I don't like the aesthetics of that one) like in the old LF series...


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## HKJ (Dec 1, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> - I want the 5 modes. Can I program them starting at the low end and gradually go up to 100%? YES
> - Will the light start at the mode I switch it off? Depends on configuration
> - The tactical function : is it in the last used mode that the light starts?
> - Is there a danger I accidentely change the brightness of a mode? Yes, but it is low
> ...



I like the LiteFlux lights, but usual I program them with some fixed settings and then do not change it anymore.


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## orcinus (Dec 1, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> Anyway no problem on the flowchart or manual - I'm just razzing you. But I do think you'd like this light



I'm sure i would...
However, i've got other plans for my (pretty thinned out at the moment) "flashlight budget" 

Besides i'm still waiting for the Clicky :laughing:


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 1, 2008)

HKJ said:


> I like the LiteFlux lights, but usual I program them with some fixed settings and then do not change it anymore.



That's just waht I want to do, as I don't want to play around constantly!

Thanks for your answers, but what does this exactly mean :



> - Is there a danger I accidentely change the brightness of a mode? Yes, but it is low



I may change the low setting? If I have the 5 different outputs, a momentary on which they name tactical function here (I still don't know at which level this happens, high would be logical), I could be a happy man with this light. But, the user manual has to stay in that nice wooden box after programming... No CUI though! 

Tomorrow I'll do, what my wife told me not to do anymore!


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## HKJ (Dec 1, 2008)

To change a light level, your need to do a 3C+PH, this can be done by accident, but it is very unlikely.

I have not used the tactical function, so I will not try to explain anything about it.


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## HKJ (Dec 1, 2008)

I just tested it on my LF3X, the tactical/momentary function uses whatever your have programmed at the current slot, this can be any level/strobe/etc..
It is possible to turn it fully on and the change the selected level.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 1, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> Thanks to Matrixshaman and Babydoc for their work on the manual, that refreshened my interest in the light... :huh:
> 
> I read the "new" manuals, but I didn't study them yet. As the light looks so great, I'll conqur my fear of the FUI and place an order, if the answers to my questions will satisfy my needs. Only say YES or NO, I can now look for the details and the how-to-do myself because of your great help :
> 
> ...


 
1. You can program all 5 modes. Read my tips in Matrixshaman's manual or in this thread. Turn off the memory function. Then set all 5 modes in order. It is easier to know which mode you are changing if the memory is off, since mode 1 is always the first to come on after power on. Modes 2 through 5 follow in sequence. After setting all 5 levels, you may turn the last mode memory back on, if you want. 
2. The default for the light is memory function is on. This works for the FUI and can be turned off, as I said above.
3. Tactical momemtary on works in any mode in both interfaces once you turn on this function. It is simple to toggle on/off with a 4C command.
4. Once set, it would be difficult to accidently change the light level of any mode except the user defined mode in the CUI. In the FUI, all 5 levels will stay.
5. Ramping is not available in the FUI, EXCEPT as a fine tune adjustment of light levels you intend to permanently set in each mode. This ramping fuction is not accessible without several key presses so it won't happen easily. The ramping speed is VERY SLOW to let you make precise small changes and has a different purpose from the faster ramping you get with the CUI. 
6. Low is not immediately accessible in the FUI. Just set your Mode#1 for that if you want. High IS immediatly accessible as is a random strobe.


I hope this helps to answer your questions.


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## WadeF (Dec 1, 2008)

Love the memory on/off feature. I turned the memory off, this way I can ramp up to medium, high, beacon, SOS, etc, but when I turn it off and back on it comes back on in mode 1 which is min. low.  

This is nice because I don't have to advance through beacon and SOS if I want the light to come back on in low. Loving the versatility of the LF3XT. Now if only it had a warmer tint.


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## sledhead (Dec 1, 2008)

OK, I'm sold. I'm putting my order in now.


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## StandardBattery (Dec 1, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> The 2 interfaces are entirely separate, EXCEPT for the following: ...


 
:thumbsup: Thanks for the excellent concise answers... just what I wanted to know.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 1, 2008)

WadeF said:


> . Now if only it had a warmer tint.


 
Wade F, I felt the same way about the tint of my LF3XT when I first got my light. However, I must say that even though the tint is not warm, it isn't the least bit blue either, even at its most low setting. This means that the LED is NEUTRAL. (A truly cold emitter becomes more noticibly bluish at lowest settings.) 

Furthermore, what probably is more important than tint is color rendition, which doesn't always get better with warmer tints, except with incadescents. In fact, I find the color rendition with Neutral LF3XT LED to be much better than a warm Q5, or even the famed Osram Golden Dragon. Use a warmer Q5 light, if you have one, along side the LF3XT. Shine both on a red or burgendy item and you will be amazed how much better the LF3XT does. Burgundy becomes slightly brown with the warmer Q5. Or shine both on your skin. The LF3XT makes your skin tone look more natural. The warmer Q5 makes your skin look jaundiced. A truly cold LED would make your skin look a bit blue and death-like.

BTW, I don't think there is a lot of variation with the tint in the LF3XT. I believe Khoo stated in his dealer thread in the marketplace that they all were similar, unlike the R2's in the LF5XT. Therefore, it doesn't really matter if you let Khoo hand pick a warmer LF3XT for you or get yours from EliteLED, who won't. The lights will be about the same.


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## WadeF (Dec 1, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Wade F, I felt the same way about the tint of my LF3XT when I first got my light. However, I must say that even though the tint is not warm, it isn't the least bit blue either, even at its most low setting. This means that the LED is NEUTRAL. (A truly cold emitter becomes more noticibly bluish at lowest settings.)


 
After further analysis I agree. However, I find the Q3 5A in my Dereelight C2H does a better job of rendering my flesh as far as what I'd be used to seeing under sunlight, or at least incandescent lighting.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 1, 2008)

WadeF said:


> After further analysis I agree. However, I find the Q3 5A in my Dereelight C2H does a better job of rendering my flesh as far as what I'd be used to seeing under sunlight, or at least incandescent lighting.


 
I would suspect your Dereelight looks closer to incadescent, while the LF3XT is closer to sunlight. Look at any photograph taken with incadescent using a daylight balance, instead of incadescent. The picture will look yellow. We are more accustomed to looking at our skin with incadescents indoors than with neutral lighting. The trouble is most so called neutral lighting, e.g daylight flourescents, are really somewhat blue. We prefer yellow to blue when it comes to skin. Having said all this, NO LED renders skin tones perfectly. (The best one to do so is the Nichia 083 High CRI LED found only in the $400 McGizmo SunDrop. Skin tones with that light look comparatively pink to any incadescent or even the LF3XT)


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## WadeF (Dec 1, 2008)

Decided to have some fun comparing the tint of my LF3XT and my C2H Q3 5A. These shots are to compare tint, nothing more. These first two shots are captured with the white balance locked in daylight:

C2H Q3 5A:




Liteflux LF3XT:




This is pretty close to what I see in person when shining the lights on the couch. These shots are bouncing the lights off my white ceiling, to give a nice even lighting so the colors aren't washed out, etc. To me the nuetral white Cree in the C2H gives richer more accurate colors. However, the Liteflux doesn't really look blue, it's just cooler in color temp. If you notice the white wall behind the couch, upper right corner of the picture, it's more pure white with the Liteflux, and a bit more yellowish white with the C2H. 

Now here is a shot with my incandescent lamps turned on (I don't use CFL's in my living room because they can't be dimmed), and I set the white balance to incan, so the colors are the most accurate in this shot to real life. I'll repeat the above images next to this image:


Control


C2H


Control


Liteflux

It isn't a perfect comparision because the lighting is different between my incan lamps and the ceiling bounce of the flashlights. The flashlight shots are probably a bit more over exposed than the lamps shot, but you should get a rough idea. Also just for fun, here is a shot with the lamps on, but the white balance still set for daylight, showing how orange the incans appear when compared with daylight:


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## matrixshaman (Dec 1, 2008)

Confirming what BabyDoc said -- I got one LF3XT form Khoo and one from EliteLED. They both seem to have nearly identical neutral tints. They are both excellent and IMO a couple of the best tints I have in LEDs.


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## kaichu dento (Dec 1, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> ...NO LED renders skin tones perfectly. (The best one to do so is the Nichia 083 High CRI LED found only in the $400 McGizmo SunDrop...


Are there any particular reasons no one else is using the Nichia 083? 
When I first got interested in LED lights a few years back, all I cared about was getting longer battery life and hoping for something bright enough to compete with my previous lights.
Then I got my first Fenix L0D and it was perfect; until I got pickier and started noticing rings and green sickly tint. Now tint is one of my top priorities when thinking about a new light which keeps me on the fence on lights that half a year ago I probably would have pounced on for their features and output. It would be really nice to see more companies doing what Dereelight is doing and offering different emitter options at the outset.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 1, 2008)

Wade, thanks for all the pictures. When you mentioned about the white wall looking white with the LiteFlux, while the colors of everything else in the room were less rich looking than with your C2 3H Q3, I wonder what your couch and pillows would look like with just daylight. Would you mind moving them outdoors?. Of course I am kidding, but if you did, I would bet the couch and pillows might look closer to the colors in the LiteFlux illuminated pictures. You just wonder, don't you, whether the yellow tint given to the white wall with the Q3 is also given or added to the real colors of the couch and pillows. Of course, the obvious question is, what are the real colors? The answer is, it all depends on what your color standard is? Is it daylight or incadescent. If it is daylight, perhaps the LiteFlux Q5 is better. If it is incadescent where everything is relatively yellow, then the Q3 wins.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 2, 2008)

kaichu dento said:


> Are there any particular reasons no one else is using the Nichia 083?
> outset.


 
The main reason is the Nichia 083 high CRI emitter can not put out all the lumens we have learned to love. In order to achieve that high color rendition, there are several different phophors coatings on the inside of the LED that enhance different portions of the color spectrum. These extra coatings decrease the output. The McGizmo, for example, probably doesn't put out more than about 40 to 60 lumens at best.


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## WadeF (Dec 2, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Would you mind moving them outdoors?. Of course I am kidding, but if you did, I would bet the couch and pillows might look closer to the colors in the LiteFlux illuminated pictures.


 
I was thinking the same thing. I can't take my brand new sofa outside, but I might be able to sneak the pillows out when we get some dry weather.


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 2, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> 1. You can program all 5 modes. Read my tips in Matrixshaman's manual or in this thread. Turn off the memory function. Then set all 5 modes in order. It is easier to know which mode you are changing if the memory is off, since mode 1 is always the first to come on after power on. Modes 2 through 5 follow in sequence. After setting all 5 levels, you may turn the last mode memory back on, if you want.
> 2. The default for the light is memory function is on. This works for the FUI and can be turned off, as I said above.
> 3. Tactical momemtary on works in any mode in both interfaces once you turn on this function. It is simple to toggle on/off with a 4C command.
> 4. Once set, it would be difficult to accidently change the light level of any mode except the user defined mode in the CUI. In the FUI, all 5 levels will stay.
> ...



Thanks BabyDoc! :kiss:

This answers everything and confirms I can get what I want with the FUI : A flashlight with 5 going-up modes, that always starts at the lowest level and will stay this way unless I really want to change it.

I don't want the memory and will see about the momentary on, that's not really necessary, but would be nice if the output was prgrammable, which doesn't seem the case here. Without memory, it'll probably be in the first mode, the lowest in my case, good for nothing!

So, I changed my mind, I hated everything about the UI, as I didn't understand a thing. I'm willing to spend an hour to make a programmation if I'll end up with an UI as I always want to have it. The light looks great and beats all those from a chain production.

In a few minutes :


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## gadgetnerd (Dec 2, 2008)

I haven't posted on CPF in a while but I've come out of hibernation tonight after receiving my LF3XT from Khoo.

What can I say - this is as close to perfect a production light as I've yet used. 

All the good points of the LF5XT and D/EX10 rolled into one great and amazingly inexpensive torch. 

Great build and looks, perfect beam and tint, really low low and blinding high, awesomely flexible and programmable UI, great value.

All the improvements obviously show that LiteFlux listens to torch users. So listen to this guys: Please please please LiteFlux make a 1xAA version


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## juplin (Dec 2, 2008)

*LF3XT with pocket clip*

This is the continued post of:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2721061&postcount=256

Please press the pictures to enlarge.

LF3XT with both pocket clip and lanyard




If the appearance of this pocket clip can be accepted, this solution will be yours. :devil:




All you need are pipe tie, clip removed from utility knife, and screwdriver.


 

Demonstration of clamping force




What I post can be used as an universal solution for the flashlights without native pocket clips, if you don't mind the appearance of the clip. 

After the tightened pipe tie and the clip have been removed, the coating of LF3XT doesn't hurt at all.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 2, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> Thanks BabyDoc! :kiss:
> 
> This answers everything and confirms I can get what I want with the FUI : A flashlight with 5 going-up modes, that always starts at the lowest level and will stay this way unless I really want to change it.
> 
> ...


 
Chances are, you will set up the light's 5 modes and leave it that way. I did that with my LF5XT. . The FUI sounds intimidating but when you have the light in your hands, it will become much clearer. If you have any problems programming the light, just let me know and we will help you.

I haven't as yet set up my LF3XT FUI in the same way as my LF5XT, because I can use the CUI and ramp to any level I need. If I should ever need strobe, beacon flash, or SOS, it is easy enough to switch to the FUI and access them. Therefore, I have left the factory default modes in the FUI that let me get to SOS and beacon flash quickly. Of course, in FUI I can instantly get to random strobe, too.; so I never set a separate mode up for that. As far as the tactical momentary is concerned, I don't have much use for it. It is easy enough to toggle it on or off should I want it. (Unfortunately, occasionally I inadvertantly turn it on. Meaning to press 5C to get a battery condition report I occasionally instead press 4C and turn on tactical accidentally). Other than that, since any other function alteration requires a more elaborate sequences of clicks and press holds, I don't think you can accidentally mess up any of your mode settings.

I know you will love the light, once you work with it for an evening. Let us all know what you think once you get it. So far, I haven't heard from anybody, except for Phantom, who didn't love the light.


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## OrlandoLights (Dec 2, 2008)

I should stop reading this thread till after Christmas. Especially since I will probably be the first one home after the package from EliteLed has been left on the porch.


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 2, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I know you will love the light, once you work with it for an evening. Let us all know what you think once you get it. So far, I haven't heard from anybody, except for Phantom, who didn't love the light.



I surely will let you know as soon as Khoo gets it to Luxembourg!

My Eagletacs are on day 16 by now... :mecry:

Greets,

Henk


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 2, 2008)

Got my LF3XT yesterday. I've not really spent much time with it yet. The CUI works so well it's been easy to avoid the FUI, but later today I'll sit down with all these great tips (thanks guys) and master it. There's not much I can add to or dispute what's been said about this sweet little light. My initial impression was that it felt good in hand. I think the full knurling is the reason, and it's just rough enough. The finish seems flawless and I don't see any dust on the reflector. The whole look seems utilitarian, or is it understated elegance. The switch is an absolute joy to use. No strain at all. I did some ceiling bounce comparisons to a few other lights. The lowest low of the LF3XT falls between the lows of the old Proton and the Proton Pro. On high it seems to beat my SF L1. The L1 still throws better. 

So far I'm more than happy with this light. I may hold off on making a clip like yours, juplin, but it would be nice to have one. Next I'd like someone to hack the code and figure how to enable an auto-shutoff. Maybe not too farfetched.

Finally kudos again to EliteLED for getting it to me in three days and even throwing in two free batteries.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 2, 2008)

Duh, it just dawned on me that the first function in the function mode alteration menu, which is for a "function to be announced in the future", is the same item number in an otherwise identical function list for the LF5XT. In the case of the LF5XT, this first function number is for the Tactical Momentary ON/OFF toggle function. Apparently, LifeFlux decided to make this function easier to access and removed it from the function menu on the LF3XT. The 4C command to toggle it on and off is unique to the LF3XT. Unless I am missing something, this is the only difference that I see between the FUI interface on the LF3XT and the LF5XTs only interface. This is very nice for LF5XT owners who want to buy the LF3XT. It should take only a few minutes to learn their new light. 

Other than the LF3XT and the LF5XT, I am unfamiliar with other LiteFlux programmable models. Are all of them operationally as similar as these two?


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## HKJ (Dec 2, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Other than the LF3XT and the LF5XT, I am unfamiliar with other LiteFlux programmable models. Are all of them operationally as similar as these two?



No, the LF2X uses a twist interface and only has one operation (The 3&5 has both P and PH, the 2 only has SW), this makes for different codes. But it has most of functions/settings that 3&5 has.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 2, 2008)

I'm imagining a black anodized clip for the LF3XT that locks into the tail through the existing hole. Easy on and easy off. And there would be a hole in the clip for possible lanyard attachment. Anything else?

Thank you Mr. LiteFlux for thinking about us.

Geoff


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## baterija (Dec 2, 2008)

Babydoc, Wade, and Matrix - Thanks for the descriptions of the low. :thumbsup: 

As I was reading my next thoughts were about the WC tint bin being my next issue. Are you guys reading my mind? If someone had mentioned glove use with the switch I'd get out the tinfoil hat. :tinfoil:

Anyone tried gloves yet? The switch being flush with the rest of the tail makes me worry about that as my last big hurdle before


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## BabyDoc (Dec 2, 2008)

baterija said:


> Anyone tried gloves yet? The switch being flush with the rest of the tail makes me worry about that as my last big hurdle before


 
Well, I just did try it with a leather glove. It was easier operating it with my index finger than with a thumb. Although I could turn the light on with my thumb, it was difficult to do the double clicks needed to change levels. I had no problems with my index finger, probably because I can direct the smaller tip of the glove covered index into the switch. I would imagine a thicker insulated ski glove being more of a problem.  If this is the only thing holding up your purchase decision, get the light and forget about the glove. You can alway take your glove off, set the light on the mode you want; then put your glove back on.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 3, 2008)

I just noticed a minor programming bug in the CUI interface. 
When using a 4CC command to toggle the tactical momentary on/off OR when using a 5CC command to get a battery condition report _*while either in the shortcut low mode or the shortcut high mode,*_ the following happens:

After a 4cc or a 5cc mode the light flashes and then shifts to the user defined mode level of brightness, instead of staying at the low or high mode brightness level you were in when issuing the command.

It appears that you have switch modes, but you have not really. You have only switched brightness levels in the mode, because otherwise the mode behaves like the shortcut mode you were in. How so? Try theses examples:

1. start in shortcut low; issue a 4CC to toggle the tactical. You get 2 flashes and the light switches to the user defined mode level of brightness. Now ramp the light to a different level of brightness. Turn the light off and then constant on, which really puts you in the user defined mode. You will see your original user defined mode setting instead of the ramped setting you just put in when you thought you were in user defined mode but weren't. If you were really in the user defined mode when you ramped, that change should have been retained in memory. In shortcut modes, ramped changes are not retained.

2. start in shortcut low; issue a 4CC command to toggle tactical again; the light flashes twice and switches to the user defined mode level of brightness. But you really aren't in that mode until you do a 2C command; when you do this nothing _*appears*_ to happens because the brightness stays the same. However the 2cc command really switched you to the user defined mode, because if you now do a ramping change of brightness, it is retained when the light is now turned off and back on.

All of this will happen also with the 5CC command whether in the shortcut low or shortcut high. Incidentally, the 5CC command for checking on battery condition will often gives you different results whether in low or high, especially as the charge on the battery lessens. This is because you are testing your battery under real load conditions. (Test your battery under high for the best picture of your batteries condition since it puts the highest actual usage load on the cell.) It is amazingly accurate (I have tested the flashlight readout against a DVM with freshly charged cells getting the same reading). It even gives you a better picture of your batteries condition than an expensive battery tester that tests under fixed loads that may not come close to real load conditions. I don't know why more expensive flashlights don't offer this useful feature. This is another reason that the LiteFlux is such a good value.


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## juplin (Dec 3, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> It is amazingly accurate (I have tested the flashlight readout against a DVM with freshly charged cells getting the same reading). It even gives you a better picture of your batteries condition than an expensive battery tester that tests under fixed loads that may not come close to real load conditions. I don't know why even more expensive flashlights don't offer this useful feature. This is another reason that the LiteFlux is such a good value.


To my knowledge, before the developer (and also the boss) of LiteFlux entered the business of flashlights, he was (and still is) the developer of protection circuits of Li-ion cells for the products ranging from mobile phones to high-power Li-ion driven tools.


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## carl (Dec 3, 2008)

How does the LF3XT compare to the Novatac regarding:
1) Programmability (ease of programming, etc.)
2) Build quality
3) User interface


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 3, 2008)

Just found a strange little probably useless characteristic of the light. I reset the beacon for lowest and slowest in FUI. Then went to Momentary/Tactical (4C). Now when I hit the switch, if it's been off for more than about 10 sec., there will initially be a bright (100%) flash before starting the slow very dim beacon flash. If you don't wait about 10 sec. the strobe just comes on at the low brightness level with no flash. Occasionally I'll get the flash, but no start-up of the beacon. So, if you need the light to give you one full fast flash it will do it. Now if I could only figure out what happened to the double flash beacon. Somehow during the resetting I got it in single flash. I haven't stumbled on the solution yet.

This is a fun light.

Geoff


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## h2oflyer (Dec 4, 2008)

Geoff

That's why I'm waiting on mine to arrive from Khoo !

I really , really want a micro computer with morse code single
key entry.

All the Toy factor attached to a flashlight.

I too want to discover hidden subfunctions

Walter


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## BabyDoc (Dec 4, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> Just found a strange little probably useless characteristic of the light. I reset the beacon for lowest and slowest in FUI. Then went to Momentary/Tactical (4C). Now when I hit the switch, if it's been off for more than about 10 sec., there will initially be a bright (100%) flash before starting the slow very dim beacon flash. If you don't wait about 10 sec. the strobe just comes on at the low brightness level with no flash. Occasionally I'll get the flash, but no start-up of the beacon. So, if you need the light to give you one full fast flash it will do it. Now if I could only figure out what happened to the double flash beacon. Somehow during the resetting I got it in single flash. I haven't stumbled on the solution yet.
> 
> This is a fun light.
> 
> Geoff


 
This behavior has been reported in an earlier post in the CUI, too.
Apparently, the memory of the last used mode or setting level is retained for about 10 seconds after toggling to momentary, even if memory is not turned on, as it isn't in the CUI except for the user defined mode. The solution is just wait 10 seconds, after toggling the momentary.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 4, 2008)

carl said:


> How does the LF3XT compare to the Novatac regarding:
> 1) Programmability (ease of programming, etc.)
> 2) Build quality
> 3) User interface


 
ONCE UNDERSTANDING the instructions, I find the LF3XT easier to program. You can set precise brightness levels on the LF3XT in its FUI mode, to any percentage of total output you want. The Novatac has a bit lower low (which flickers sometimes) but you must choose from its 22 levels of brightness, and it is much harder to know what level you arrived at since you have to count through a rapidly changing bank of levels. Furthmore, it doesn't have a brightness report to tell you exactly what brightness level you have selected, like you can with LiteFlux. The Novatac doesn't offer you a battery condition report either, which I love on the LiteFlux. The Liteflux offers many beacon and strobe options that the Novatac doesn't. It is easier to toggle on and off momentary with the Liteflux than with the Novatac.

The build quality, in my opinion, is better on the LiteFlux. The anodizing is perfect, and durable, unlike the black finish on the Novatac (the olive Novatac is better in that regard). Just take the LiteFlux appart, and look how perfectly centered and symmetical is the gold plated spring in the battery tube. It says quality. The Novatac has a clip, but the clip is lousy. It too easily rotates and scratches the anodizing when you open the light. The LiteFlux is smaller and more comfortable as an EDC.

The user interface on the LiteFlux is really 2 interfaces. The Compact User Interface (CUI) is simpler than the interface on the Novatac. The Full Function Interface is very similar to the Novatac in terms of many of the commands and features. A few selectable features that Novatc has that LiteFlux doesn't include an automatic lockout of the switch after a few minutes of disuse, a finder mode that blicks infrequently at lowest light level to help find your light in the dark, a lock out of the programmability so that you don't accidentally reprogram anything. The LiteFlux lets you select 1 to 5 programmable light modes in the FUI; the Novatac gives you only 3. While you can ramp with the Novatac, it isn't so easy as with the LiteFlux in the CUI. Both lights have equally smooth beams, but I like the tint of my LiteFlux better than my Novatac. My Novatac beam while neutral on bright, tends to take on a slight blue tint on the lower brightness levels. The LF3XT is very white and neutral at all brightness settings. There is no flickering at its lowest level.

Oh, did I forget, the LiteFlux costs less that half what the p120 costs. Buy two of them!! They are that good!!


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 4, 2008)

h2oflyer said:


> Geoff
> 
> That's why I'm waiting on mine to arrive from Khoo !
> 
> ...



Yep. It's that "toy factor" that sold me. I'm afraid all these features will spoil me for future lights. 

It may be tricky to use the Momentary setting for Morse Code. In this mode you must give the switch a "push-hold" for an instant. If you are too quick the light sees it as a "click", then blinks and turns on.

I hope you're able to find us some extra features.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 4, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> Yep. It's that "toy factor" that sold me. I'm afraid all these features will spoil me for future lights.
> 
> It may be tricky to use the Momentary setting for Morse Code. In this mode you must give the switch a "push-hold" for an instant. If you are too quick the light sees it as a "click", then blinks and turns on.
> 
> ...


 
I don't know Morris code. Is there a letter in Morris code, (a single dot in written Morris code), that is only a single brief flash?.

The only way you will fire the light on in momentary is if you do a single brief click by itself. A succession of brief clicks will not fire the light on. A single PH by itself (a dash in written Morris code) will not fire on the light, either.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 4, 2008)

You're right, BabyDoc, about the succession of clicks not firing the light. I hadn't tried fast clicks like that. Maybe my light is touchier, though, cause if I slow those clicks a bit the light will lock on. Seems like the "dots" would be coming too fast unless you really knew your Morse.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 4, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> You're right, BabyDoc, about the succession of clicks not firing the light. I hadn't tried fast clicks like that. Maybe my light is touchier, though, cause if I slow those clicks a bit the light will lock on. Seems like the "dots" would be coming too fast unless you really knew your Morse.
> 
> Geoff


 

If you pause more than .3 seconds after any click in an attempted run of successive clicks, the light considers it a single click, and turns on the light to constant. With a succession of PH's (dashes), you don't need to worry about firing on the light to constant, no matter how long you pause between the PHs. Again, a single PH, unlike a single C, will not fire the light onto constant.

BTW, I looked up Morse Code. A single click by itself is the letter E. Therefore, it doesn't look like you could use the LF3XT for doing extended messaging since there are two many words containing the letter E. Of course, your SOS is no problem with this light.


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## JSG (Dec 4, 2008)

Been a member since 2003, though haven't posted much. First lights were a couple of Arc LSHP's and did some eval stuff for Peter back in the day. I've got a Fenix P2D and a LF3XT on order. Had a question about the LF3Xt UI's that hasn't been answered, or at least not that I noticed.

Here's what I'd like to be able to do:

Have a quick way (least amount of clicks) to get three different outputs; 

-Full power
-Momentary on, at any power setting between 50-100%
-Full power strobe. 

Appreciate the fine work you guys do here, on input.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 4, 2008)

JSG said:


> Been a member since 2003, though haven't posted much. First lights were a couple of Arc LSHP's and did some eval stuff for Peter back in the day. I've got a Fenix P2D and a LF3XT on order. Had a question about the LF3Xt UI's that hasn't been answered, or at least not that I noticed.
> 
> Here's what I'd like to be able to do:
> 
> ...


 
In the FUI, you can do all of these with just a few clicks. To get full, power, just PH. Toggle on mementary with 4C and it works in any mode till you toggle it off. A C+PH gets you into a random frequency strobe at 50 percent brightness. Or set any mode for strobe at full brightness level if you want. You can set the number of operational modes from 1 to 5. If you set up fewer modes, you will have the fewest clicks to get to your full power strobe mode.

In the CUI, the only thing you can't do is full power strobe. C+PH puts you at full power. Again, 4C toggles on momentary, which works with any level you set via ramping or with the instant full power or instant low. You also get instant low, with a 2C from High or from the user define mode.


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## carl (Dec 4, 2008)

Babydoc, thanks for your answers - its what i needed to know about the 2 lights. much appreciated. carl


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## JSG (Dec 4, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> In the FUI, you can do all of these with just a few clicks. To get full, power, just PH. Toggle on mementary with 4C and it works in any mode till you toggle it off. A C+PH gets you into a random frequency strobe at 50 percent brightness. Or set any mode for strobe at full brightness level if you want. You can set the number of operational modes from 1 to 5. If you set up fewer modes, you will have the fewest clicks to get to your full power strobe mode.
> 
> In the CUI, the only thing you can't do is full power strobe. C+PH puts you at full power. Again, 4C toggles on momentary, which works with any level you set via ramping or with the instant full power or instant low. You also get instant low, with a 2C from High or from the user define mode.



Thanks for the response. So, it sounds like there is no way to get momentary, without the 4C, is that correct? Also, you are saying that I could set a mode in FUI and go to a full power strob setting, if I set it? From the light being off, is there anyway to go directly to the strobe setting then that I set, with just a click or two?


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## BabyDoc (Dec 4, 2008)

JSG said:


> Thanks for the response. So, it sounds like there is no way to get momentary, without the 4C, is that correct? Also, you are saying that I could set a mode in FUI and go to a full power strob setting, if I set it? From the light being off, is there anyway to go directly to the strobe setting then that I set, with just a click or two?


 
In the FUI, set the memory function off. Doing so will force the light to start in Mode 1 every time you turn on the light. Now set operation mode 1 for the full brightness strobe you want. Every time you turn the light on and off you are strobing in mode 1!
The only problem here is you would always strobe when you turn on the light.

Or with memory off, you could set Mode 1 as your most used constant light level, and set Mode 2 as your full power output strobe. You turn on the light with the first click. You are at your favorite constant level Mode 1. You then quickly double click to get to Mode 2 that you set as your full power strobe, and you are now strobing on full! Or while in Mode 1, you C+PH and you are random strobing on half power. By releasing the PH, you are back in Mode 1 on constant.


The 4C command is issued once to turn on the momentary function. By turning on the function, it just changes the way the switch works. With the function on, you press the switch and the light turns on, but goes off as soon as you release it. With the function toggled off, you press the switch and the light immediatelygoes constant and stay on even if you release it. In other words, issuing 4C changes the way the switch works until you issue the command a second time to change it back. So if you like momentary, you just do 4C once and forget it. It stays that way, unless you change it back with another 4C command. Furthermore, once momentary is turned on or off in one interface, the switch will function the same way in the other. 

However, there are some differences between the momentary on this type of a light with a programmed momentary and a forward mechanical clicky momentary. With the LiteFlux, with the switch in momentary mode, the light can go into constant mode unintentionally, if you aren't careful. With a single short press (a click) and release the light will flash as you would expect with the press, but it will go onto constant after the release, unless there is another press or click within 0.3 sec. ( Longer single presses or rapid successions of presses regardless of length will not turn the light onto constant.) Some people complain that while in momentary they sometimes accidentally switch the light onto constant, because they accidentally press and release too quickly or pause too long before pressing again creating but not intending a single click. While some people don't like this, some people like that they can quickly go from momentary to constant if they want, with just an intentional single click.

Accidental constant activation is more difficult with forward clicky lights. On those you usually tighten or untighten the tail switch to change from momentary to constant on/off. Or with other forward clicky designs, you press half way down and release to get momentary, and all the way down to click and lock onto constant. People used to these momentaries may need time to accustom themselves to the LiteFlux.


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## JSG (Dec 4, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Or with memory off, you could set Mode 1 as your most used constant light level, and set Mode 2 as your full power output strobe. You turn on the light with the first click. You are at your favorite constant level Mode 1. You then quickly double click to get to Mode 2 that you set as your full power strobe, and you are now strobing on full! Or while in Mode 1, you C+PH and you are random strobing on half power. By releasing the PH, you are back in Mode 1 on constant.
> 
> 
> The 4C command is issued once to turn on the momentary function. By turning on the function, it just changes the way the switch works. With the function on, you press the switch and the light turns on, but goes off as soon as you release it. With the function toggled off, you press the switch and the light immediatelygoes constant and stay on even if you release it. In other words, issuing 4C changes the way the switch works until you issue the command a second time to change it back. So if you like momentary, you just do 4C once and forget it. It stays that way, unless you change it back with another 4C command. Furthermore, once momentary is turned on or off in one interface, the switch will function the same way in the other.



Duuuude! You Da Man! That's what I was looking for! I need the light to be totally tactical. Full power when I need it, with a disorientating full power strobe on command, with the ability to have a momentary switch when needed. 

Thanks!


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## BabyDoc (Dec 5, 2008)

JSG said:


> Duuuude! You Da Man! That's what I was looking for! I need the light to be totally tactical. Full power when I need it, with a disorientating full power strobe on command, with the ability to have a momentary switch when needed.
> 
> Thanks!


 
You are welcome. However, while I think this little light will serve you as great backup in a tactical situation, it would not be my first choice as a tactical light. While I am no expert when it comes to tactical situations, I would imagine you might need a light with further throw than the LiteFlux. The LF3XT's beautiful smooth beam comes at the expense of extensive throw. While its throw is comparable to other similar lights with OP reflectors, I could imagine tactical situations requiring more output and further throw. Some of the Olight tactical models come to mind as perhaps better first choices, although they are not programmable.


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## JSG (Dec 5, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> You are welcome. However, while I think this little light will serve you as great backup in a tactical situation, it would not be my first choice as a tactical light. While I am no expert when it comes to tactical situations, I would imagine you might need a light with further throw than the LiteFlux. The LF3XT's beautiful smooth beam comes at the expense of extensive throw. While its throw is comparable to other similar lights with OP reflectors, I could imagine tactical situations requiring more output and further throw. Some of the Olight tactical models come to mind as perhaps better first choices, although they are not programmable.



BabyDoc, there is tactical and there is tactical, and believe me, I know tactical; it really depends on the situation. For instance, the average distance most fire fights that a police officer gets in is about the length of a patrol car, so in that instance it's not important to be able to light up hundreds of yards of real estate. Practical combat distance has always been no more than 7 yards, or 21 feet. Also, in most situations a true tactical device is the one you will be using as an EDC piece of equipment. A small, powerful light source, which is easily carried and that can effectively assure target identification and acquisition, temporarily disorientate a subject, be used to signal, and for extended illumination in a survival situation, is highly tactical in my estimation. Would I like it to have a further throw? Maybe. But, it first has to be something I'm going to want to carry with me religiously. If it isn't, it has exactly zero tactical value. Of couse, tactical arguements can surely be made for longer throws from your light source, as you pointed out, but in the envisioned scenarios I will be using it, this light will do nicely and I, again, thank you for your expertise in helping me set it up.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 5, 2008)

JSG said:


> BabyDoc, there is tactical and there is tactical, and believe me, I know tactical; .


 
I figured you know tactical, but I know this light and wanted to be sure you knew what this light can and can't do. I am glad that it will serve your needs both at work and as an EDC for your personal needs. I know you are going to love it! If you have any problems figuring out the instructions, just holler. It seems complex at first only because the instruction manual is poorly written. I think Matrix's manual will help, along with tips posted in this thread. I'll bet that once you program your light the way you want it, you won't be changing it much, ever. My LF5XT was programmed once and left the same. My LF3XT's FUI defaults remain unchanged, because I seldom access it except to play with the strobe and to explain the programming to others. I don't need it as you do for my work. For that I use other lights that are more suited to my pediatric practice (The McGizmo Sundrop is what use most there, because of its highly accurate color resolution - necessary for throat exams).


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 5, 2008)

I'm getting to really like the FUI after more practice in resetting things. It's really not that tough. I've got mode 1 set to min., mode 2 to about 5%, mode 3 to about 40%, mode 5 to slowest/lowest beacon, and mode 5 to 100% random strobe. With memory turned off it always reverts to min. and it's real easy to avoid seeing beacon or strobe until needed.

Tried 6C, 7C, 6C+PH, 7C+PH. Nothing happened. I wonder what the lifetime of these switches is? It begs to be clicked.

Geoff


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## MartinSE (Dec 5, 2008)

What's a good place to buy one from concidering I'm in Sweden? Any place offering them with free shipping for instance?

Cheres.


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## HKJ (Dec 5, 2008)

MartinSE said:


> What's a good place to buy one from concidering I'm in Sweden? Any place offering them with free shipping for instance?
> 
> Cheres.



It does not really matter where in the world your are when your buy them from LED Cool

Jeg har brugt ham flere gange  (I have used him multiple times).


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## JSG (Dec 5, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I figured you know tactical, but I know this light and wanted to be sure you knew what this light can and can't do. I am glad that it will serve your needs both at work and as an EDC for your personal needs. I know you are going to love it! If you have any problems figuring out the instructions, just holler. It seems complex at first only because the instruction manual is poorly written. I think Matrix's manual will help, along with tips posted in this thread. I'll bet that once you program your light the way you want it, you won't be changing it much, ever. My LF5XT was programmed once and left the same. My LF3XT's FUI defaults remain unchanged, because I seldom access it except to play with the strobe and to explain the programming to others. I don't need it as you do for my work. For that I use other lights that are more suited to my pediatric practice (The McGizmo Sundrop is what use most there, because of its highly accurate color resolution - necessary for throat exams).



I agree, I will probably set it and forget it. I have no fear of using the FUI and I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out, especially with your help and the info I've downloaded from Matrix. Since it's still on order, I was initially trying to find out if it would do what I envisioned, which you've corroborated. 

On a different note, I just received my Fenix P2D Premium Q5. Though the packaging is pretty drug store-ish, the light seems to be pretty straight forward; well made and worth the price. It has a simple interface, and except for the sound of the clicky switch, would be a good, small, EDC tactical light, used within the parameters I envision also for the Lite Flux model.


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## JSG (Dec 5, 2008)

P.S. Just realized the Fenix doesn't have any momentary on capability, which would make the Lite Flux more aptly suited, tactically.


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## Nake (Dec 5, 2008)

JSG said:


> P.S. Just realized the Fenix doesn't have any momentary on capability, which would make the Lite Flux more aptly suited, tactically.


 
Just FYI, you can buy a switch at the Fenix-Store to give you momentary function.


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## JSG (Dec 5, 2008)

Nake said:


> Just FYI, you can buy a switch at the Fenix-Store to give you momentary function.



I didn't know that. What switch would that be? Does it lengthen the light at all?


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## Nake (Dec 5, 2008)

JSG said:


> I didn't know that. What switch would that be? Does it lengthen the light at all?


 
Here's the link. You take apart the stock tailcap and replace the switch board and boot. It will stick out so that it won't be able to tailstand.

https://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=27_40


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## matrixshaman (Dec 5, 2008)

I would not choose a Fenix P2D for a tactical light. While I EDC'd that model for a while it has a couple drawbacks that the LF3XT does not have. One is that it will run nearly full output and then suddenly you will have NO light due to the regulation circuit it uses. When the battery reaches a certain point it's like you switched off the light - gone in a blink. You can setup your LF3XT to behave that way but if I was using it for tactical I would set the battery protection to OFF. And use either primaries or unprotected Li-Ions or the new IMR LiMN which are not protected but are safer (just somewhat shorter runtime in most cases). My other complaint about the P2D is that it loses it's lower output modes if you are using a rechargeable battery (3.6 volt). While some 3.0 volt rechargeables are available they all seem to have considerable compromises one way or another. And the last reason I don't think a P2D is a good tactical light is that it is so smooth as to be difficult to hang on to or even to turn it on in some situations. While it was a nice light in it's time it's really been outdone by a number of lights lately and the LF3XT is one of them.


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## JSG (Dec 6, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> I would not choose a Fenix P2D for a tactical light. .



Matrix,
While I agree with you, my choice between the two would be the LF3, I don't think run times, or losing the lower functions, would be at issue; but here again, the parameters for what is "tactical" is as varied as there are possible scenarios. But, generally speaking, here's why: Run times would not be an issue because if you were carrying the light for tactical reasons, if you used it, you could always replace the battery after such use, thereby always having a fresh battery before it was ever used again. Most situations I would envision I would need it for, would be over in a far shorter time period than the normal run times, way before any drop in power occurred. Also, even if I were to use rechargeable batteries, which I really wouldn't, losing the lower functions on the Fenix wouldn't be and issue, unless the tactical use was solely for survival scenarios. The only problem in my tactical scenario would be if the batteries lost substantial power while not in use. With today's Lithium batteries having extended shelf lives, that isn't an issue, but if it were, you simply would have a schedule were you would replace batteries that hadn't been used, with fresh ones. However, your point about the slick grip on the Fenix is certainly correct. The LF3 wins hands down on this point, and I stand corrected. BTW, thanks for all the work you did on the LF3 manual. You are to be commended.


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## JSG (Dec 6, 2008)

Nake said:


> Here's the link. You take apart the stock tailcap and replace the switch board and boot. It will stick out so that it won't be able to tailstand.
> 
> https://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=27_40



Thanks Nake.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 6, 2008)

I realize this light has been out a relatively short time, but I am rather suprised that other than the review on Light-reviews.com, there isn't another formal review of this light. It seems that CPF reviewers prefer certain brands to review over others. NiteCore and Fenix models seem to be reviewed as quickly as they come out. Does it all depend on the reviewers getting free lights?

The only reason I am wondering is that, so far, it seems that there aren't that many people on this thread who actually have the light, or who have ordered it. I wonder if others are just waiting for the official CPF reviewers like SelfBuilt to give their seals of approval or not. 

Maybe its just a sign of these tougher ecomomic times that people are waiting for something more special than a 2-in-1 repackaged EX10/p120 for just $60, even though I think this alone should make the LF3xt very special to more people right now.


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## StandardBattery (Dec 6, 2008)

This is a very interesting light, I think economic times and LiteFlux does not have a history with anything really exciting in it, so it will take some time to get a foot hold.

Personally I'm on the fence on this light. The CUI is not what I want but I feel I have to actually test the FUI myself to really make a judgement. Also LiteFlux is maybe seen as a LiIon based light even though this one seems to work quite well on more regular AA 1.5/1.7V cells. It could be the NC SmartPD paved the way for a light like this for the masses, but it looks like it will take a little time to tell. 

Also I'm not looking for 1 light to do it all at this point since it just isn't going to happen. The NovaTac is a fantastic light and a fantastic UI. It does have the drawback of being just a little large for some to EDC some times. I'm looking at simplifying my carry though because 90% of the time simple is better.

So... wait and see... it may get more attention, it may get alot more attention, or it may not. The manual improvements that people here have been working on I'm sure will be a big help to many. A company that has been in business as long as LF with as many products though should be able to produce a decent manual. The fact that they choose to make a nice box instead is maybe just a bit disconcerting and does say something.

That's my thoughts anyway.


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## Art Vandelay (Dec 6, 2008)

I'd also like to see more reviews of the LF3 XT.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 6, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> This is a very interesting light, I think economic times and LiteFlux does not have a history with anything really exciting in it, so it will take some time to get a foot hold.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
I agree with you about the manual. They should be able to do better with that. However, I disagree that the nice box is given instead of a nice manual. I don't think one has anything to do with the other. If they didn't give you either would you be happier? I don't think so. I just don't think LiteFlux have people in the company with the English skills necessary to write a good manual. This wouldn't be a problem if it was a Fenix light with a simple interface. But it is a problem with a sophisticated programmable light. BTW, a lot people have trouble even with p120 and return them because they can't follow that instruction manual. 

Even if you never use the FUI With the LF3XT, anybody can figure out the CUI. (The instructions on that CUI are very straight forward.) For the people who didn't buy the EX10 because they didn't like the user defined mode losing memory when doing shortcut highs or low, or because they heard the PD caused sore thumbs or misfired, the LF3XT is the EX10 the way it should have been. No sore thumbs, no lost user defined memory, and a perfect beam with no Cree artifacts. At $60, you have a great light with the FUI thrown in as bonus, even a bigger value if you figure it out.

Finally, if you live in the US, we now have a distributer, EliteLed.com. If you get the light and don't like it, it is easily returned, although I would bet you won't.


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## tpchan (Dec 6, 2008)

My LF3XT arrived today from LED Cool in exactly 10 calendar days. Wooden box was wrapped in bubble-wrap which came inside a brown wrapper padded envelope. Nice packing job. Beam is flawless, especially for a Cree. No ringy artifacts. Same lanyard style that came with the LF5XT. There is no problem with setting the light down on its tail, so the intermittent shut-off problem from the LF5XT is NOT in the LF3XT design. It tail stands just fine. Manual is just fine for me. I barely glanced at it. I own the LF2, LF2X, LF3, LF5XT so programming the LF3XT was trivial for me.

I have it set to: Memory on, Overdischarge off, Operation mode number: 5, 1st lvl 50%, 2nd lvl 15%, 3rd lvl 0.2%, 50% brightness double flash beacon, strobe (2 steps down from Random strobe) 50% brightness. I don't like SOS so I replaced the factory default 5th mode with the strobe setting that I prefer.

The WC tint is on the slightly cool side (blueish) but that's fine I don't like my white wall beams warm (greenish).

The metal clicky button is very nice. I like this button and the light overall MUCH better than my NiteCore EX10. The ONLY feature of the EX10 that is better is the add-on clip available from 4Sevens. The totally ringy beam of the EX10 is a big drawback for me. The programmability of this light is fantastic. I use the FUI. The CUI is nice but I want the full adjustability of the FUI.

The knurling provides a good grip but it shouldn't grind up your pockets either. The front bezel is slighly crellenated but not sharp at all, just enough curves to let light through when resting on the front bezel. Wood box also comes with extra lube, spare o-rings and a fat outer ring for those that prefer a cigar type hold on their flashlights.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 6, 2008)

tpchan said:


> Wood box also comes with extra lube, spare o-rings and a fat outer ring for those that prefer a cigar type hold on their flashlights.


 
I am glad you like your light. That fat outer ring is a bonus from Khoo. It doesn't come with the lights that EliteLed sends out. Instead they send a couple of Lithium primaries with the light. I would have loved to have had that ring for my LF5XT (which Khoo also includes). With a longer light it is more useful.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 7, 2008)

I think interest in this light will grow quickly as more folks get them. So far I can say, "What's not to like?" It seems to have just about all the bases covered. With its range of adjustment there should be a way to please almost everyone as far as UI goes. The beam is smooth and the clicking is easy.

I think I'd like to see an LF2X with a little clickie like this light. Could be a real winner, like the LF3XT should be.

Geoff


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## JSG (Dec 7, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I am glad you like your light. That fat outer ring is a bonus from Khoo. It doesn't come with the lights that EliteLed sends out. Instead they send a couple of Lithium primaries with the light. I would have loved to have had that ring for my LF5XT (which Khoo also includes). With a longer light it is more useful.



What is this ring made of? Anyone got a pic of it?

Also, does anyone know if the McLuxIII PD is available anywhere?


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## Nake (Dec 7, 2008)

> does anyone know if the McLuxIII PD is available anywhere?


 
You have to keep your eyes on Custom & Mod B/S/T for a used one. When ever McLeish sells a run of them, they go pretty fast.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 7, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I realize this light has been out a relatively short time, but I am rather suprised that other than the review on Light-reviews.com, there isn't another formal review of this light. It seems that CPF reviewers prefer certain brands to review over others. NiteCore and Fenix models seem to be reviewed as quickly as they come out. Does it all depend on the reviewers getting free lights?
> 
> The only reason I am wondering is that, so far, it seems that there aren't that many people on this thread who actually have the light, or who have ordered it. I wonder if others are just waiting for the official CPF reviewers like SelfBuilt to give their seals of approval or not.
> 
> Maybe its just a sign of these tougher ecomomic times that people are waiting for something more special than a 2-in-1 repackaged EX10/p120 for just $60, even though I think this alone should make the LF3xt very special to more people right now.



In the past it seems few have caught on to the quality of Liteflux. All of their products have been very high quality but until the LF5XT and then LF3XT came out they were all twisty operated and I think that held people back with all the programming they have. I kept hollering for a clicky version and I think others did too. Liteflux listened and now we have these two new incredibly good lights but I just think they haven't caught much attention yet with all the choices out there and the fairly large following that has been created with various other brands like Fenix, Nitecore and so on. 

Khoo sent an email to me and I'm not sure if this went out to everyone or just a few but he asked me to do a review on the LF3XT when I got it. I wish I had the time to do a good review but I'm in the middle of a huge project that takes nearly all my time other than when I plop myself down in front of the computer for some rest and play here. Maybe we could do a sort of group review with everyone pitching in various aspects of the review. I found out some time ago that you cannot post a review in the review section here unless you first post it in the LED section or other appropriate section. If it is a good review then it is moved by a Mod to the review section. I'm not sure but their may be exceptions to that for some of our main top notch reviewers. 
I may try starting a review unless someone else wants to take this and run with it but I don't think I can do it justice with the time I have now. The only way I was able to do work on the LF3XT manual was that I had a very rainy day where I was stopped from any work on my project. If we get some more bad weather days I'll give this a try but I encourage anyone else with a LF3XT to give it a try in the meantime and I'll add in what I can as time allows.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 7, 2008)

JSG said:


> What is this ring made of? Anyone got a pic of it?


 
I gather that it is just a large, fat, rubber O-ring, that slips over the middle of the light. It enables you hold the light like a cigar with you index and middle finger in front of the ring supporting the body of the light inbetween your fingers, and your thumb is on the switch. With more difficult to operate switches, the ring keeps the light from moving forward while you press the button. Perhaps, somebody who has one can post a picture.


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## h2oflyer (Dec 7, 2008)

Anyone know the lumen output of the LF3XT ?

I understand that at 700ma on high it should be around 120-130 L.

Has same emitter and reflector dia. as my NDI. Wondering if output
will be the same as my NDI silver.

Waiting on mine from Led Cool.


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## StandardBattery (Dec 7, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> ... All of their products have been very high quality but until the LF5XT and then LF3XT came out they were all twisty operated and I think that held people back with all the programming they have. ...


 
I agree. I was going to mention this, the sophisticated programming and the twisty interface were not the idea pairing. With the clicky more people are at least going to try it. For many regular flashlight uses many people also prefer the clicky. So things are looking good for LiteFlux. I think I'm going to have to try one.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 7, 2008)

h2oflyer said:


> Anyone know the lumen output of the LF3XT ?
> 
> I understand that at 700ma on high it should be around 120-130 L.
> 
> ...


 
I think your NDI silver, if powered by a 14500 cell, will put out more lumens than the LF3XT. LiteFlux doesn't quote lumen outputs for any of their lights. My eyeball, comparing it to the Ex10, says it is roughly as you guessed, around 120 to 130 lumens, if the EX10 that I own is close to Nitecore's claimed output..


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## StandardBattery (Dec 7, 2008)

OK I pulled the trigger. I've been getting my Christmas lights for under the tree rather than on the tree. My brain is pretty in sync with the NovaTac when it comes to programmable, but trying to keep it as nimble as possible is good. If not there is always the marketplace where someone else will be happy to do some shopping.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 7, 2008)

Comparing output numbers from the light-reviews.com site the LF3XT performs about the same as the Novatac 120P (120 lumens?) and the Fenix L2DCE (180 advertised lumens??). So, like BabyDoc said, I guess it's fair to say at least 120 lumens.

Geoff


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## Art Vandelay (Dec 8, 2008)

In this case I prefer videos to text. Nothing gets lost in translation with videos.


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## WadeF (Dec 8, 2008)

I haven't done much testing, but I'd say 120-130 lumens sounds reasonable.


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## JSG (Dec 8, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I gather that it is just a large, fat, rubber O-ring, that slips over the middle of the light. It enables you hold the light like a cigar with you index and middle finger in front of the ring supporting the body of the light inbetween your fingers, and your thumb is on the switch. With more difficult to operate switches, the ring keeps the light from moving forward while you press the button. Perhaps, somebody who has one can post a picture.



Thanks. A pic is not needed now (though if someone has one, great), as I completely understand. I had guessed that it was probably made of rubber, from the initial description, and understand of course how this works and the type of hold.


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## JSG (Dec 8, 2008)

Nake said:


> You have to keep your eyes on Custom & Mod B/S/T for a used one. When ever McLeish sells a run of them, they go pretty fast.



Thanks again, Nake


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## Gatsby (Dec 8, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> In the past it seems few have caught on to the quality of Liteflux. All of their products have been very high quality but until the LF5XT and then LF3XT came out they were all twisty operated and I think that held people back with all the programming they have. I kept hollering for a clicky version and I think others did too. Liteflux listened and now we have these two new incredibly good lights but I just think they haven't caught much attention yet with all the choices out there and the fairly large following that has been created with various other brands like Fenix, Nitecore and so on.
> 
> Khoo sent an email to me and I'm not sure if this went out to everyone or just a few but he asked me to do a review on the LF3XT when I got it. I wish I had the time to do a good review but I'm in the middle of a huge project that takes nearly all my time other than when I plop myself down in front of the computer for some rest and play here. Maybe we could do a sort of group review with everyone pitching in various aspects of the review. I found out some time ago that you cannot post a review in the review section here unless you first post it in the LED section or other appropriate section. If it is a good review then it is moved by a Mod to the review section. I'm not sure but their may be exceptions to that for some of our main top notch reviewers.
> I may try starting a review unless someone else wants to take this and run with it but I don't think I can do it justice with the time I have now. The only way I was able to do work on the LF3XT manual was that I had a very rainy day where I was stopped from any work on my project. If we get some more bad weather days I'll give this a try but I encourage anyone else with a LF3XT to give it a try in the meantime and I'll add in what I can as time allows.



I owned an LF5 and still have an LF2 on my key ring - both are very good lights. The LF5 was sold mostly due to my purchase of a Novatac and a bit of an overlap - it was not getting used as much as it should have so... but it was an excellent light as is the LF2. Very much under the radar it seemed and the twisty programming interface definitely scared people away (somewhat unnecessarily) - but I admit that for most EDC multi mode lights I'm partial to a clickie (exception for very small lights like the CR2 Ion). I did not pull the trigger on the LF5XT primarily for aesthetic reasons - I really could not stand the appearance of the light and the sharp bezel is a bit of a deal breaker in a pocket light for me ... ouch 

The addition of the compact interface is a big bonus for me actually - I like the FUI ability but my ideal setup is 3 modes with no strobe/sos and I like that you can toggle between modes in the CUI - that toggle feature is pretty much the key element (there are others but this is the principal differentiator) of the Arc 4/HDS/Novatac/Ra interface that I find so compelling and for me the most useful. The ability to move between modes quickly and not sequentially is very nice. 

The only thing that would make the LF3XT perfect is the ability to setup the FUI interface in 3 or less modes with the toggle feature - you get max I believe (at least momentary max) but not minimum and that is my favorite setting. The point is that I have my Novatac for example set to level 2 on min rather than level 1 - it would be nice to be able to program the LF3XT levels rather than having one level in CUI. That being said - since ramping is easy enough the LF3XT in CUI is pretty darn close to ideal.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 8, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> The only thing that would make the LF3XT perfect is the ability to setup the FUI interface in 3 or less modes with the toggle feature - you get max I believe (at least momentary max) but not minimum and that is my favorite setting. The point is that I have my Novatac for example set to level 2 on min rather than level 1 - it would be nice to be able to program the LF3XT levels rather than having one level in CUI. That being said - since ramping is easy enough the LF3XT in CUI is pretty darn close to ideal.


 
You get both shortcut minimum and shortcut max on the compact user interface. You also have a user defined mode that is retained until you change it. You can toggle between these, just like you would have designed your FUI to do. You might argue, but you would like to have preset levels of your own choosing in all 3 modes. Well, you can at least preset the user defined mode. You can retain that setting and go to the low mode or high mode and ramp up or down to any other level you might on a rare occasion need. 

Only on the FUI, are you missing shortcut Min. (you get shortcut max, shortcut strobe,) [I have my mode 1 on the FUI set for min.]
In the FUI, you can set the user mode to 3 modes or less. However, because there is the option of having 5 modes, it would be impossible to toggle between 5 different modes directly (how complicated it would be to have 5 direct click commands for these 5 modes). But what the FUI does offer that the CUI doesn't, it lets you have the ability to start on min if you want, and step wise go all the way to max in 5 or less larger increments quicker than you could do with just ramping alone as in the CUI. With the choice of the 2 intefaces and easy switching between them, I think it is a great design.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 8, 2008)

The five settable modes of any type output in the FUI combined with the ability to have a last mode memory or revert to mode 1 gives this light the flexibility to adjust to just about any setup I can imagine. Think of any five actions and you are no farther from them than one click for your favorite followed by a few double clicks for everything else. As little or as much as you want is easily programmed.

Geoff


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## kaichu dento (Dec 8, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> You get both shortcut minimum and shortcut max on the compact user interface. You also have a user defined mode that is retained until you change it. You can toggle between these, just like you would have designed your FUI to do. You might argue, but you would like to have preset levels of your own choosing in all 3 modes. Well, you can at least preset the user defined mode. You can retain that setting and go to the low mode or high mode and ramp up or down to any other level you might on a rare occasion need.
> 
> Only on the FUI, are you missing shortcut Min. (you get shortcut max, shortcut strobe,) [I have my mode 1 on the FUI set for min.]
> In the FUI, you can set the user mode to 3 modes or less. However, because there is the option of having 5 modes, it would be impossible to toggle between 5 different modes directly (how complicated it would be to have 5 direct click commands for these 5 modes). But what the FUI does offer that the CUI doesn't, it lets you have the ability to start on min if you want, and step wise go all the way to max in 5 or less larger increments quicker than you could do with just ramping alone as in the CUI. With the choice of the 2 intefaces and easy switching between them, I think it is a great design.


Don't know if I missed it but will the lowest setting go as low as the 120P? Sorry if this has already been addressed.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 8, 2008)

kaichu dento said:


> Don't know if I missed it but will the lowest setting go as low as the 120P? Sorry if this has already been addressed.


 
Not quite as low. It goes as low as 0.2 percent of maximum. I would estimate Max at about 120-to -130 lumens. So say it goes to 0.250 lumens. The 120P will go to 0.08 lumens. I doubt you can tell the difference, except with the LF3XT you won't get any flicker on lowest low. Not only that, but the tint doesn't seem to shift towards blue as it does with my p120 on extreme low.


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## JSG (Dec 8, 2008)

Got my LF3 XT today from Elite LED. Took a couple three days, minus the weekend (sent it to my work address so no Saturday mail, not that I was there anyway). Packaged nicely. They bubble wrapped the wooden box. Came with two off-brand CR123's. Almost tossed them out cause they were in a small plastic bag and were lost in the packing material, but I remembered someone here said they shipped with them so I looked around in the box and found them. Light comes with a small container of lube, lanyard and extra o-rings. It has 3 extra o-rings for the main threads on the battery tube, and one small o-ring that I can only assume might be for the switch, were you to take it apart. Anyone able to verify this?

Since I also got my Fenix P2D on Friday, I'll make some comparisons.

First, the CUI of the LF3 is pretty easy to figure out and I was up to speed in hardly anytime at all. The FUI took a little longer, but not much. Granted, the instruction manual sucks (hey, they're from China, whatdaya expect?), but with a glance at some of the instructions I've read on here, it was no problem at all. Anyone who has a major problem with the FUI, probably shouldn't be allowed to play with sharp objects either. 

Some comparisons: (No where near technical, so forgive me) If you're into lanyards (I'm not), the one that comes with the LF3 is better than what comes with the P2D. It's beefier and has a slide lock and quick detach fitting.

I noticed the threads are finer on the LF3 and tend to drag a bit more than the P2D. It is slightly easier to line up the threads on the P2D, but the difference is nominal. It is virtually the same height as the P2D and table sets a little bit better than the P2D. The LF3 looks to be maybe a millimeter less in diameter. The reflector is a lot deeper than the P2D and has a finer OP. The P2D appears to have a wider spill to its output, and the LF3 seems slightly cooler then the P2D. This is my first piston drive, and while it took a few times for me to get used to it, over a clicky, I'm now acclimated and don't have much of a problem with it. The knurling on the LF3 is pretty good, and is a definite plus over the P2D. All operation seems to be inline with what's been already reported in the forums, and I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary or noteworthy, yet. In answer to a question I saw posted, I don't know if the low output is actually .2% or 2.0% but it's pretty damn low; I would guess .2%. That’s about it, unless anyone has any questions from a non-technical aspect. All in all it’s built well and worth the cost.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 8, 2008)

Glad you're liking the LF3XT, JSG. Keep your opinions coming. Do you think it will meet your tactical needs? I guess brighter would always be better, but it seems pretty dazzling, especially that random strobe at 100%.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 8, 2008)

JSG said:


> Got my LF3 XT today from Elite LED. Took a couple three days, minus the weekend (sent it to my work address so no Saturday mail, not that I was there anyway). Packaged nicely. They bubble wrapped the wooden box. Came with two off-brand CR123's. Almost tossed them out cause they were in a small plastic bag and were lost in the packing material, but I remembered someone here said they shipped with them so I looked around in the box and found them. Light comes with a small container of lube, lanyard and extra o-rings. It has 3 extra o-rings for the main threads on the battery tube, and one small o-ring that I can only assume might be for the switch, were you to take it apart. Anyone able to verify this?
> 
> Since I also got my Fenix P2D on Friday, I'll make some comparisons.
> 
> ...


 
Glad you like the light and are up to speed so quickly! :twothumbs. This is a small point, but the LF3XT does not have a PD switch. Other than the switch being flat and there is an inner sleeve within the battery compartment, there is no other similarity to a PD switch. With a piston drive, the entire piston tube holding the battery moves as you push the button end of the piston. The other end of the piston tube makes contact with a contact ring on the circuit board completing the circuit. When you release the piston, the piston moves back away from the contact ring because of spring tension within the battery tube.

With the LF3XT, the switching contacts are in the switch end of the light itself. The metal tube holding the battery is an electrical conduit to the circuit board from the switch; the tube doesn't move. The end of the tube opposite the switch is always in contact with the circuit board, unless you lock out the light by losening the head of the light. The tube does not move when you switch on and off. The only thing that moves is the switch button itself against the lilttle resistance of a small spring inside the switch.

The only reason I am correcting you on this is that while the PD switch is theoretically great, I don't think it is well executed on the Nitecores. I am glad the LiteFlux isn't using the same switch (BTW, the PD was originally a McGizmo design and better implemented on his lights.) If you think it is hard to get used to the switch on the LF3XT, you will hate the PD switch on the Nitecores. It is very stiff in comparison to the LiteFlux, and can misfire to low or high, or shuts off the light entirely during ramping unless you have extremely steady pressure on the switch and let up quickly enough when you stop ramping.

Did you figure out the tactical momentary? What do you think? I was a bit concerned you might not like it, because it is so different from mechanical tactical switches you may be more accustomed to using.

Oh, one last thing. It might help to clean the threads of the light with a pointed end of a round wooden toothpick dipped in alcohol. I got some grit out of my threads when I did; then relube. It will work as smooth as butter, if you do. BTW, I didn't use the silicone lube that came with the light. I prefer the Radio Shack PFTE oiler. It is a thinner lube and seems to work better with fine threads.


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## WadeF (Dec 8, 2008)

The funny thing is I'm having more problems with the Liteflux's switch than I have with my Nitecore PD switches. I often turn on my Liteflux, double tap and nothing happens. Either I double tap to quick after turning on, or I don't press it properly. The switch feels a bit soft and sloppy to me. However it isn't that big of a deal for me, but I prefer the feel of the PD in the Nitecore line.


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## JSG (Dec 8, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> Glad you're liking the LF3XT, JSG. Keep your opinions coming. Do you think it will meet your tactical needs? I guess brighter would always be better, but it seems pretty dazzling, especially that random strobe at 100%.
> 
> Geoff



Yes, actually, the stock settings of the FUI would work tactically for me if I didn't want to change them. The first setting, when turning on the light in the FUI is about 50% it looks like. From there, all I have to do to get full power is to press and hold, and to get the strobe, click and hold. Very convenient as is, but I can already see how I could tailor the FUI to pretty much anyway I need it.


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## JSG (Dec 8, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> This is a small point, but the LF3XT does not have a PD switch.
> 
> Did you figure out the tactical momentary? What do you think? I was a bit concerned you might not like it, because it is so different from mechanical tactical switches you may be more accustomed to using.
> 
> Oh, one last thing. It might help to clean the threads of the light with a pointed end of a round wooden toothpick dipped in alcohol. I got some grit out of my threads when I did; then relube. It will work as smooth as butter, if you do. BTW, I didn't use the silicone lube that came with the light. I prefer the Radio Shack PFTE oiler. It is a thinner lube and seems to work better with fine threads.



I stand corrected on the piston drive. Actually, I did read that in a previous post, but conveniently forgot the difference. I had heard about the problems with the Nitecore, and that's one reason I opted for the LF3. 

Yes, I did figure out the momentary; pretty simple. Four clicks and you're in. Took a few seconds to acclimate and really no problem after that. All I gotta do now is program my strobe to one of the frequencies that is the most disorientating. I can do that right?

Good tip on the cleaning. I'll give it a try.

Thanks guys, for all the help. This is one fine light. Anyone wanna buy a ever so slightly used Fenix P2D?


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## JSG (Dec 8, 2008)

JSG said:


> The LF3 looks to be maybe a millimeter less in diameter.



Minor correction to my review, for the sake of accuracy. I meant to say that the LF3 appeared to be about one millimeter LARGER in diameter than the Fenix P2D. Sorry for the mix up.


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## JSG (Dec 8, 2008)

Oh, BTW, I've noticed some speculation on the max output of the LF3, which some are saying is about 120-130 lumens. Here's my two cents. My Fenix P2D at max is supposed to be 180, correct? Well, when I put it side by side with the LF3 on max, I see only a very slight difference. I don't believe the difference is 50 lumens. In fact, it's appears a lot less then the difference between 50% on the Fenix and 100%, which is about 60 lumens, assuming the P2D is maxing at 180. I'd say the difference between the two lights is half that amount, maybe 30 lumens, which might mean the max output of the LF3 is closer to 150. Of course, there is nothing even remotely scientific about what I'm observing, just my own, probably flawed, observations. But, is it possible it could be maxing at 150?


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## BabyDoc (Dec 8, 2008)

JSG said:


> Oh, BTW, I've noticed some speculation on the max output of the LF3, which some are saying is about 120-130 lumens. Here's my two cents. My Fenix P2D at max is supposed to be 180, correct? Well, when I put it side by side with the LF3 on max, I see only a very slight difference. I don't believe the difference is 50 lumens. In fact, it's appears a lot less then the difference between 50% on the Fenix and 100%, which is about 60 lumens, assuming the P2D is maxing at 180. I'd say the difference between the two lights is half that amount, maybe 30 lumens, which might mean the max output of the LF3 is closer to 150. Of course, there is nothing even remotely scientific about what I'm observing, just my own, probably flawed, observations. But, is it possible it could be maxing at 150?


 
Fenix usually quotes the lumen output as emitter output which tends to exaggerate the specs, compared to out-the-front lumens, which Nitecore and SureFire uses. When I estimated the LF3XT output at 120 to 130 lumens it was out-the-front. I80 emitter lumens usually means 130 out-the-front.

As far as programming your strobe mode, try the instant default which is quickly accessed with a C+PH. This is a random strobe mode, mixing everything together. It is disorienting to me. You can set this or another type of strobe as one of your levels if you want. You might want to look at the end of Matrix's manual. He copied some tips I posted concerning setting brightness levels and frequency of strobe/beacon. If that still isn't clear enough help, just give a holler.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 8, 2008)

WadeF said:


> The funny thing is I'm having more problems with the Liteflux's switch than I have with my Nitecore PD switches. I often turn on my Liteflux, double tap and nothing happens. Either I double tap to quick after turning on, or I don't press it properly. The switch feels a bit soft and sloppy to me. However it isn't that big of a deal for me, but I prefer the feel of the PD in the Nitecore line.


 
Are you referring to the LF5XT or the LF3xt? The problem with LF5XT really doesn't have anything to do with switch; rather the light goes to sleep if you don't use it for a while. After a rest you have to press the switch firmly once or twice less firmly. The LF3XT doesn't seem to have this problem. The light goes on instantly with the first click.

In fact there better not be trouble with the LF3XT switch, because it doesn't look like LiteFlux made it user accessible. There is no retaining ring on the outside of the switch and the tube on the inside of the battery compartment seems to be fixed somehow in place making it so I can't get at the switch from the inside, either.


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## Norm (Dec 8, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Are you referring to the LF5XT or the LF3xt? The problem with LF5XT really doesn't have anything to do with switch; rather the light goes to sleep if you don't use it for a while. After a rest you have to press the switch firmly once or twice less firmly.


My LF5XT sits beside the bed, I use it every night getting ready for bed, it is switched on and off once everyday, never had a problem with it not switching first time every time. I consider it a real keeper, love the way it can be customised.
Norm


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## JSG (Dec 9, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> As far as programming your strobe mode, try the instant default which is quickly accessed with a C+PH. This is a random strobe mode, mixing everything together. It is disorienting to me. You can set this or another type of strobe as one of your levels if you want. You might want to look at the end of Matrix's manual. He copied some tips I posted concerning setting brightness levels and frequency of strobe/beacon. If that still isn't clear enough help, just give a holler.



Thanks. I have used the random strobe, as that seems to be the default. I will probably program a couple of modes, one of which will be a strobe at a certain frequency.

Speaking of the switch not being user accessable on the LF3, any idea why they sent me a tiny replacement o-ring?


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## BabyDoc (Dec 9, 2008)

JSG said:


> .
> Speaking of the switch not being user accessable on the LF3, any idea why they sent me a tiny replacement o-ring?


 
I have no idea what the little o-ring is for. I never even looked at the 0-ring package I was sent. Perhaps it is the same package they send with the LF5XT? I am guessing the switch is accessible; otherwise, how did they put this together? I just can't figure it out. Perhaps, Khoo (LEDCool) is the guy to ask. I am not sure he has been following this thread. You could pose the question to him in the CPFMarketPlace where has a dealer thread for the LF3XT.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 9, 2008)

Finally got around to playing with the "brightness report". Very cool. Once we get some firm lumen numbers for max. output I assume we can be reasonably accurate determining output at lower levels. Can't recall if power/lumens stays fairly linear.

Like you said, BabyDoc, we better not have switch trouble. Mine has been getting quite the workout. Don't these types of switches have lifetimes in the million click range, or am I dreaming?

Geoff


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## baterija (Dec 9, 2008)

JSG said:


> Speaking of the switch not being user accessable on the LF3, any idea why they sent me a tiny replacement o-ring?



I believe Orcinus talked about adjusting the tightness of the switch mounting in his LF5XT. I can't find it off hand though. If it's the same mounting in the 3XT finding those posts or him chiming in might solve the mystery.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 9, 2008)

What's cool about the brightness report is you can use that to *precisely *set a brightness level of any of your programmed operational modes.

Just for fun, try this exercise. While in setting mode (3C+PH), reset your brightness level by doing C, or 2C trying to change the current level to near 33 percent. This is a coarse adjustment. Now, get a brightness report. Let say it says, 27 percent. You are a bit low of your goal of 33 percent; so now do a C+PH for a second or two. This will ramp you up just a bit depending on how long you do the PH before releasing. Now get another brightness report. Now it says maybe 36 percent; so you overshot a bit. Now do a 2C+PH and realease quickly and it will ramp down (BTW, the ramping adjustments are so slow, (not at all as fast as ramping in the CUI mode) you really may not appreciate the change visually when doing it for a second or two. However, when you get the brightness report you will see what you actually did. In other words, the ramping here is a fine brightness adjustment. With a bit of practice, you'll get the hang of how long you need to hold doing the C+PH, or 2C+PH, to make these fine adjustments. Then, eventually, by ramping up or down briefly, by trial and error, and by getting brightness reports, you will get the 33 percent level you were shooting for. If you want to save it, do a 3C+PH. If not, do a 3C and you exit back to your operating mode at the brightness level you had started with. 

I might add that all of the above is totally unnecessary. It is just for the people that are obsessive, like me, or want to have fun with the light. I have the levels on mine set at 0.2 percent, 15 percent, 33 percent, 50 percent, and 75 percent. All were set _EXACTLY_, doing what I mentioned above. (I don't have a 100 percent mode, because I can get that with a PH any time I want it, and I don't have a strobe mode because I can always hit a C+PH and access instant random strobe.). I have memory turned off so that I always start on the lowest mode and step up. It was also easier programming the light with memory off, because I always knew when the light was turned on that I was starting in mode 1. Then after programming mode 1, I just double clicked to mode 2 and programmed that, etc.


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## kaichu dento (Dec 9, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I have the levels on mine set at 0.2 percent, 15 percent, 33 percent, 50 percent, and 75 percent. All were set _EXACTLY_, doing what I mentioned above. (I don't have a 100 percent mode, because I can get that with a PH any time I want it, and I don't have a strobe mode because I can always hit a C+PH and access instant random strobe.). I have memory turned off so that I always start on the lowest mode and step up. It was also easier programming the light with memory off, because I always knew when the light was turned on that I was starting in mode 1. Then after programming mode 1, I just double clicked to mode 2 and programmed that, etc.


This post has really got my interest now. I hope that LiteFlux will come out with a AA more along the lines of this light, but in the meantime I suspect I'm going to find an LF3XT in my hands sooner before later!

Nice info you've been supplying us with Doc! :thumbsup:


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 9, 2008)

That is very slick being able to do a fine tune ramp. Did you notice the report for 0.2% comes out 00? Should we complain it doesn't go out to one decimal place? :laughing: A couple fine tune punches gives a 01 report. As mentioned before this light may very well spoil me for anything more conventional. Well, I might save some money.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 9, 2008)

kaichu dento said:


> This post has really got my interest now. I hope that LiteFlux will come out with a AA more along the lines of this light, but in the meantime I suspect I'm going to find an LF3XT in my hands sooner before later!
> 
> Nice info you've been supplying us with Doc! :thumbsup:


 
Guess what, if you didn't hear, there will be a AA accessory battery tube available for this light in the future. :thumbsup: ( However, it will be for 2 AA cells, because if you need a single AA cell version, you can have the LF5XT. OK, the LF5XT doesn't have the CUI, but it otherwise is the same.)


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## JSG (Dec 9, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Guess what, if you didn't hear, there will be a AA accessory battery tube available for this light in the future. :thumbsup: ( However, it will be for 2 AA cells, because if you need a single AA cell version, you can have the LF5XT. OK, the LF5XT doesn't have the CUI, but it otherwise is the same.)



Any idea on what the size of the light would be with the AA tube?


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 9, 2008)

Just ran across a few pics on a German forum. Most interesting is the pic showing the switch assembly. It looks like it might be easy to take apart. Here's a link to the page.

http://translate.google.com/transla...refox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=wAb

Geoff


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## baterija (Dec 10, 2008)

JSG said:


> Any idea on what the size of the light would be with the AA tube?


 It's going to be a 2xAA tube for the 3XT. The 5XT is the 1xAA model (101 mm by spec). Since it's not out a little math for an estimate of the 2xAA

3XT is 80mm - 34mm (length of the CR123) + 100mm (length of 2xAA)
= 146 mm (5.75 inches)

That assumes the same amount of length taken up by springs, switch, etc is the same between the tubes but is probably pretty close till they actually bring the tubes to market.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 10, 2008)

It wouldn't bother me if LiteFlux went ahead and made a 1AA tube for the 3XT. 
For some time I was considering the D10 vs. the LF5. Didn't get either, but I had nixed the LF5 for the superficial reason of its, to me, somewhat ugly design. Not something I usually care about, except this time. I forgot about it when the LF3 appeared. Now an unadorned AA tube for the LF3 sounds like a winner. I think they'd sell twice as many as 2AA tubes.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 10, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> It wouldn't bother me if LiteFlux went ahead and made a 1AA tube for the 3XT.
> For some time I was considering the D10 vs. the LF5. Didn't get either, but I had nixed the LF5 for the superficial reason of its, to me, somewhat ugly design. Not something I usually care about, except this time. I forgot about it when the LF3 appeared. Now an unadorned AA tube for the LF3 sounds like a winner. I think they'd sell twice as many as 2AA tubes.
> 
> Geoff


 
I don't think a 1-AA tube can happen. The flashlight is now one that runs in the 2.5 to 4 volt range. That's why 2 -AA 's will work. A single AA cell would only give it 1.5 volts or less. So the way the flashlight is setup, it wouldn't run with one AA cell.* 

As an aside, beauty is the eyes of the beholder. I love the way the LX5XT looks. You may not like the indentations in the body of the light, but with a slimmer, longer light, it makes the light much easier to hold and operate especially if you prefer a cigar type tactical hold.

**Edit*: while it can't run on a single AA, I suppose a single A size battery tube could let you run on a 14500 rechargable cell which has a higher voltage in the size of a single AA. Yet, I still doubt we will see a single 14500 version. The main advantage of the AA light would be the easy availabilty of inexpensive primaries, and still the choice of being able to use rechargables, either the 14500 or the NIMH batteries. A battery tube that only lets you use a single 14500 wouldn't be any advantage over what you have with the R123 cells.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 10, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I don't think a 1-AA tube can happen. The flashlight is now one that runs in the 2.5 to 4 volt range. That's why 2 -AA 's will work. A single AA cell would only give it 1.5 volts or less. So the way the flashlight is setup, it wouldn't run with one AA cell.



Thanks for the clarification in regards to voltage range. I just assumed the head would operate with 1.5 v. like the Fenix setup. I see your point about the LF5 design giving a good grip.

Geoff


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## Gatsby (Dec 10, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> Thanks for the clarification in regards to voltage range. I just assumed the head would operate with 1.5 v. like the Fenix setup. I see your point about the LF5 design giving a good grip.
> 
> Geoff



But I agree I never picked up an LF5XT mostly due to the aesthetics - particularly the sharp bezel.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 10, 2008)

Gatsby said:


> But I agree I never picked up an LF5XT mostly due to the aesthetics - particularly the sharp bezel.


 
The LF5XT really isn't as sharp as it looks. You really should pick it up. It is quite nice in the hand.  

There seems to be a trend to have crenalated bezels. It can't be for the sake of defense. No little light is going to inflict much physical damage with its bezel, unlike my big Husky 2 D which in addition to its sizable sharp bezel also could be used as a club. On the LF3XT the crenalations are so shallow and broad, the only use for them is seeing the light is accidentally on should you stand it on the bezel end.


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## Chewy (Dec 10, 2008)

I really would like to see some in-depth reviews on this light. I'm particularly interested in run-times. My intention is for this light to be my EDC. I've looked at Fenix, too, and their run-times are fantastic! All the fancy programming and "toy factor" are pulling me toward this light, but I hesitate due to knowing that the Fenix will give me a longer-lasting light. That means a lot to me right now. I'm not the kind of guy who will carry around a spare battery or two (but that may have to change). Can anybody give any anecdotal examples of runtime??

Also, do they make rechargeable CR123's?


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## BabyDoc (Dec 10, 2008)

Check out this review: http://light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf3_xt/

Runtimes and comparisons are in the review. They gave this light one of the highest value ratings they have given for any light (9.5/10).
The runtimes will not be as good as the best of Fenix lights, but remember they don't have any programming either. (The quality of the beam, on the LF3XT can't be equaled by any Fenix Q5 except for the TK10, but thats a much bigger light and not exactly an EDC light.)

Yes, there are CR123 rechargables, which the LF3XT can utilize. (A lot of the Fenix models can not utilize rechargable lithiums or do not give all functions if you do use rechargable lithiums with them).

There is no reason why the the LF3XT won't last a long time. It appears to be well built and durable. It should last as long as a Fenix.


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## Chewy (Dec 10, 2008)

Thanks, Doc. I never questioned the build. They look very solid, and I believe that I'm sold on them. 

Just to repeat, using a rechargeable CR123 won't influence the LF3XT in any way? I assume that I would make sure that I have the over discharge safety turned to ON, and it would be just like a normal CR123 except that I would have even less of a run-time, right?

Thank you for your help on this!


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## BabyDoc (Dec 10, 2008)

Personally, I would only buy protected R123 cells. I purchased my AW cells at the same time I bought my light from EliteLED.com. While you can use unprotected cells in the light and use the light's protection system, I just feel more comfortable with protected cells to avoid them being overcharged and exploding. I would doubt that the lights battery protection circuit will alter the runtime, unless the flashlight shuts off the cells before the batteries protection cirucit would turn them off. I have my protection circuit turned off.


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## Chewy (Dec 10, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Personally, I would only buy protected R123 cells. I purchased my AW cells at the same time I bought my light from EliteLED.com. While you can use unprotected cells in the light and use the light's protection system, I just feel more comfortable with protected cells to avoid them being overcharged and exploding. I would doubt that the lights battery protection circuit will alter the runtime, unless the flashlight shuts off the cells before the batteries protection cirucit would turn them off. I have my protection circuit turned off.



*Noob Alert* Sorry, Doc, but you just lost me. I thought there was only one kind of CR123. Can you edumacate me?


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## JSG (Dec 10, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> Just ran across a few pics on a German forum. Most interesting is the pic showing the switch assembly. It looks like it might be easy to take apart. Here's a link to the page.
> 
> http://translate.google.com/transla...refox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=wAb
> 
> Geoff



Looked at these photos, and now understand where the small o-ring they gave me as an extra would go. But, what I don't understand is how you disassemble the switch. The only thing that makes sense is that the "cross" unscrews somehow, but it certainly isn't anywhere near finger tight (tried my damndest to unscrew it) and I don't see how you'd do it without messing up the "cross" unless you had some specially designed tool. I read somewhere though that this cross fixture was meant to be permanent, so how else would you access the switch assembly I wonder?

I took the spring out of the brass tube inside the battery compartment, but the brass tube, though it rotates inside the housing freely, doesn't come out, or at least I couldn't get it out. There are four holes at the bottom of the tube; maybe some kind of tool fits in to these? I'm stumped. Anyone smarter than me? (don't everyone raise their hands at once)

Got this off Light Review: 

"The battery tube makes up the lower half of the light, though the LF3 XT uses a push button switch, there is no separate tail cap. There is however a cross-shaped fixture at the bottom which hold the switch and brass sleeve in place, but this is meant to be permanently attached and should not be removed under normal use."


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## juplin (Dec 10, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I don't think a 1-AA tube can happen. The flashlight is now one that runs in the 2.5 to 4 volt range. That's why 2 -AA 's will work. A single AA cell would only give it 1.5 volts or less. So the way the flashlight is setup, it wouldn't run with one AA cell.*


Actually, LF3XT can run in the range of 1.0V ~ 4.2V, same as LF5XT.
I had tested LF3XT with 1.2V 1/2A NiMH battery (same diameter as normal CR123A battery, but with shorter length), and the brightness of LF3XT powered by NiMH was similar to that of LF5XT powered by NiMH. The measures that LiteFlux should supplement to realize the 1AA solution for LF3XT are 1AA tube and the code for 1AA NiMH overdischarge protection, both of which are not difficult to LiteFlux.

I suppose the factor that impedes the 1AA solution for LF3XT is the market consideration. If the total solutions (CR123A, 2AA and 1AA) for LF3XT come true, It will not only give a blow to competitors, the market of LiteFlux's own LF5XT will also hurt.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 10, 2008)

juplin said:


> Actually, LF3XT can run in the range of 1.0V ~ 4.2V, same as LF5XT.
> I had tested LF3XT with 1.2V 1/2A NiMH battery (same diameter as normal CR123A battery, but with shorter length), and the brightness of LF3XT powered by NiMH was similar to that of LF5XT powered by NiMH. The measures that LiteFlux should supplement to realize the 1AA solution for LF3XT are 1AA tube and the code for 1AA NiMH overdischarge protection, both of which are not difficult to LiteFlux.
> 
> I suppose the factor that impedes the 1AA solution for LF3XT is the market consideration. If the total solutions (CR123A, 2AA and 1AA) for LF3XT come true, It will not only give a blow to competitors, the market of LiteFlux's own LF5XT will also hurt.


 

Thanks for correcting me. You wouldn't think from a form factor point of view that it would be any more difficult to create a single AA tube. As it is, I wonder what this double AA tube will look like, since the diameter of the head of this light is bigger than most AA battery compartments.


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## juplin (Dec 10, 2008)

JSG said:


> Looked at these photos, and now understand where the small o-ring they gave me as an extra would go. But, what I don't understand is how you disassemble the switch. The only thing that makes sense is that the "cross" unscrews somehow, but it certainly isn't anywhere near finger tight (tried my damndest to unscrew it) and I don't see how you'd do it without messing up the "cross" unless you had some specially designed tool. I read somewhere though that this cross fixture was meant to be permanent, so how else would you access the switch assembly I wonder?


I have done in my side. 





I insert a screwdriver with proper diameter into the lanyard hole. Then use the screwdriver as a lever to unscrew the switch module counterclockwise with muscle. Use a clamping device to hold the tube if necessary while the switch module is unscrewed. If you choose to use a clamping device, be sure to wrap the tube with rubber to protect the coating.

The right-most component of my photo is the retaining ring for switch. The retaining ring can be unscrewed with tweezers or the tool for watch disassembly. Other components just slip away by themselves. 

The slight scratches in the "cross" portion are the marks that I rounded the sharp edges before and the marks that made by the lanyard metal ring through the lanyard hole. Nothing to do with the aforemensioned disassembly of switch module. So, don't be afraid.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 10, 2008)

Chewy said:


> *Noob Alert* Sorry, Doc, but you just lost me. I thought there was only one kind of CR123. Can you edumacate me?


 
You can buy protected or unprotected CR123 rechargables.
Protected rechargables have a small circuit inside the cell to guard against overcharging or overdischarging. I can't tell you how the circuit monitors the voltage, but it takes up a small space within the cell; therefore, protected cells generally don't have room for as much charge capacity as unprotected cells without the circuit. The protected cell will reach a certain voltage, usually around 2.8 volts and stop discharging itself further, protecting the cell from damage that occurs when over discharging. If it is a flashlight when this happens, the light turns off. During charging, a protected cell will usually vent and not explode if charging voltages should be exceded, protecting you and the battery.


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## juplin (Dec 10, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Thanks for correcting me. You wouldn't think from a form factor point of view that it would be any more difficult to create a single AA tube. As it is, I wonder what this double AA tube will look like, since the diameter of the head of this light is bigger than most AA battery compartments.


The 2AA tube is supposed to be realized in a few months. I am also looking forward to seeing what it looks like.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 10, 2008)

juplin said:


> I have done in my side.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Juplin, good job at figuring the switch disassembly out. :twothumbs Now figure out a clip for this light, will you? :laughing:


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## juplin (Dec 10, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Now figure out a clip for this light, will you? :laughing:


I am still used to the lanyard while carry the LF3XT.
Would like to see your solution for the clip.


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## Chewy (Dec 10, 2008)

Thanks for the info on the batteries. Go figure!

As for clips, I kind of like the idea of using a short lanyard and a Fenix clip to keep the whole thing upright in my pocket. I'll go that way once I order mine.


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## JSG (Dec 10, 2008)

juplin said:


> I insert a screwdriver with proper diameter into the lanyard hole...



You know, I had thought about the possibility of using that damn lanyard hole, but didn't have anything small enough. Well, it's nice to know it can be done if needed. Looks like a bit of work though. One question: What keeps the brass tube in place inside the battery housing?


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## juplin (Dec 11, 2008)

JSG said:


> One question: What keeps the brass tube in place inside the battery housing?


The three components from left to right are: housing, brass sleeve, and switch/tail cap module.




To assembly, firstly the brass sleeve will be inserted into the housing, then the switch/tail cap module will be screwed and locked the brass sleeve.
Referring to the photo, while the brass sleeve is inserted to the outmost location, the flange in the end of the brass sleeve will be stuck on the slide stop of the housing. Then the spring of the screwed switch/tail cap module will press against the end face of the brass sleeve and lock the brass sleeve in place.


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## WadeF (Dec 11, 2008)

The LF3XT does have a small hole. I just put the split ring from the included lanyard on it, then attached my skull from Beamhead on it with a fishing lure swivle inbetween.





LF3XT on min:


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## JSG (Dec 11, 2008)

juplin said:


> To assembly, firstly the brass sleeve will be inserted into the housing, then the switch/tail cap module will be screwed and locked the brass sleeve.
> Referring to the photo, while the brass sleeve is inserted to the outmost location, the flange in the end of the brass sleeve will be stuck on the slide stop of the housing. Then the spring of the screwed switch/tail cap module will press against the end face of the brass sleeve and lock the brass sleeve in place.



Thanks! That clears up the mystery nicely!


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## TooManyGizmos (Dec 11, 2008)

. Does that little skull guy , have ...... a Mowhawk ..... ! . .


WadeF said:


> The LF3XT does have a small hole. I just put the split ring from the included lanyard on it, then attached my skull from Beamhead on it with a fishing lure swivle inbetween.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## snakyjake (Dec 11, 2008)

Nice photos. Anyone have photos with a clip? I'm thinking a clip can be welded somehow.


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## hogger1 (Dec 11, 2008)

how about drill and tap the t shaped tail to attach the clip?:thinking: may be possible to use a nitecore clip.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 11, 2008)

I'll bet LiteFlux is working on a clip. Looking at juplin's pics it looks like it might be possible to screw one on to the cross-shaped end piece, as long as it will still screw down far enough. Hopefully they thought of this or some other method when the light was designed. Could be they're just waiting a bit to see if the light sells before offering the clip. Alternately, maybe someone here will find an existing slip-on clip that fits.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 11, 2008)

I am not sure that they are. I messaged them via their website about it a few days ago and haven't heard back from them. Perhaps if we individually ask, they may find it worth while to make one. I explained in my message that the LF3XT is great and would be the perfect Every Day Carry light IF it had a clip. I asked if they planned to make one. Take a moment and write to them.

http://liteflux.com/english/contactus.php


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## JSG (Dec 11, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I am not sure that they are. I messaged them via their website about it a few days ago and haven't heard back from them. Perhaps if we individually ask, they may find it worth while to make one. I explained in my message that the LF3XT is great and would be the perfect Every Day Carry light IF it had a clip. I asked if they planned to make one. Take a moment and write to them.
> 
> http://liteflux.com/english/contactus.php



Doc, Turtle, doesn't that indentation, around the battery tube, near the tail, look like a possible detent for a clip? I always thought so. Other than being cosmetic (which is pretty lame as a cosmetic feature), what else might it be for?


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## BabyDoc (Dec 11, 2008)

JSG said:


> Doc, Turtle, doesn't that indentation, around the battery tube, near the tail, look like a possible detent for a clip? I always thought so. Other than being cosmetic (which is pretty lame as a cosmetic feature), what else might it be for?


 
Besides being costmetic, the cross lets you tail stand the light. I suppose they could have put a solid ring around the switch button which would have done the same thing as well.

I would guess they have special tool that fits into the indentations that lets them assemble and tighten the cross a lot easier and tighter than fitting a screw driver into the lanyard hole. Had they wanted us to mess around with the switch they would have put just a standard retention ring there, or made the switch more like the LX5FT.

Another thing I notice with the switch, which makes it different than the LX5FT that doesn't have the cross, is the cross forces you to use the end of your thumb or index finger rather than the broad portions. This has you pushing more on the center of the button with less chance of misfiring than you can when pushing more on the periphery of the button like you might more easily do with the LX5FT. Occasionally, I get sloppy and use the broad portion of my finger. Since I can't that way push the button in far enough, the light often doesn't switch properly. If I use the end of my finger, which the cross reminds me to do, the switch works right, nearly all of the time.

As far as attaching a clip to the indents, I can't imagine that being a simple way of doing it. Furthermore, once the clip would be installed there, assuming it was screwed in, it would make it more difficult to service the switch even if you had the special tool I am assuming LiteFlux uses for that cross piece.


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## JSG (Dec 11, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> As far as attaching a clip to the indents, I can't imagine that being a simple way of doing it. Furthermore, once the clip would be installed there, assuming it was screwed in, it would make it more difficult to service the switch even if you had the special tool I am assuming LiteFlux uses for that cross piece.



I'm sorry, I wasn't very clear. I meant the circular detent that runs around the circumference of the battery tube, just below the tail. Couldn't some kind of spring clip be made to fit that?


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## BabyDoc (Dec 11, 2008)

JSG said:


> I'm sorry, I wasn't very clear. I meant the circular detent that runs around the circumference of the battery tube, just below the tail. Couldn't some kind of spring clip be made to fit that?


 
The attachment for the clip would have to be very thin to fit into that groove, don't you think? It would have to be made from a wire loop made of spring steel that would perhaps grip the light there. But I can't imagine it not twisting.


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## snakyjake (Dec 11, 2008)

Is there space between the tailcap and the battery tube for a clip/ring to be sandwiched?


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 11, 2008)

snakyjake said:


> Is there space between the tailcap and the battery tube for a clip/ring to be sandwiched?



I'm thinking this might be possible, but the clip/ring would have to be very thin in order for the tailcap to screw down enough. I assume there wouldn't be much tolerance here.

Geoff


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## JSG (Dec 11, 2008)

snakyjake said:


> Is there space between the tailcap and the battery tube for a clip/ring to be sandwiched?



I can barley get a piece of paper in the space.


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## JSG (Dec 11, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> The attachment for the clip would have to be very thin to fit into that groove, don't you think? It would have to be made from a wire loop made of spring steel that would perhaps grip the light there. But I can't imagine it not twisting.




Would twisting be a problem, other than wearing out the finish? My concern would be if it fit there would the clip be strong enough to do the job without popping off the light.


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## juplin (Dec 11, 2008)

Firstly, look at the internal view of the switch/tail cap module with the retaining ring being removed .





The two objects shown in the background are the disassembly tool for watch that I use to unscrew the retaining ring, and the clip for simulation.
Examining the structure of the switch/tail cap module, you will conclude that the only way to take advantage of this module to add a clip is to remove the O-ring, and use the existing O-ring slot as a clip slot to fit into the "C shape" portion of the clip for simulation.
Additionally, two notches must be cut (by DIY:naughty: ) in the end face of the housing to lead out two vertically bent legs of the clip for simulation. 
By doing so, waterproof function will lose due to removal of the O-ring.

Therefore, we have chance to add a clip at the cost of waterproof function.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 11, 2008)

Thanks, again, for the pics and analysis, juplin. Maybe my initial thoughts of somehow locking the clip into the lanyard hole is the only viable solution short of finding a simple slip-on clip.

Geoff


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## snakyjake (Dec 12, 2008)

What would it take to weld a clip (like the clip of the Nitecore Ex10)? Wondering what a TIG welded clip would look like with a bit of grinded cleanup.

Juplin's idea gives me another idea. Something that wraps around the body, something that forms a ring around the body. How big of deal would it be if it stood out a bit? I'm thinking it would be okay. Typically the portion that protrudes out a bit wouldn't be in the pocket or snag on anything. Just like the EX10 clip protrudes.

Or maybe it would just be easier to make a new battery tube that can be fitted with a clip? Could it be that hard/expensive?

...however, why should we have to do any work at all? The light should come this way.

I'm having some serious doubts that a clip will be available. If it were to ever be available from the manufacturer, I would have imagined the design to better accomodate.

I may just have to wait for v2, or wait for another manufacturer to produce a similar light, with a clip.


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## Art Vandelay (Dec 12, 2008)

The Zebralight H30 is just 1 mm thinner than the LF3 according to light-reviews.com. It comes with a removable clip.



snakyjake said:


> What would it take to weld a clip (like the clip of the Nitecore Ex10)? Wondering what a TIG welded clip would look like with a bit of grinded cleanup.
> 
> Juplin's idea gives me another idea. Something that wraps around the body, something that forms a ring around the body. How big of deal would it be if it stood out a bit? I'm thinking it would be okay. Typically the portion that protrudes out a bit wouldn't be in the pocket or snag on anything. Just like the EX10 clip protrudes.
> 
> ...


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## mr.snakeman (Dec 12, 2008)

Another idea: if one doesn´t mind modding the tail then file two of the four protusions (two without holes)down as much as the thickness of the clip material. A 45 degree ramp would probably be needed to be filed between the two. As the clip will be covering these filed parts and if your are careful no touch-up should be necessary. The "T" part would be as high as the protusions are from the tail and would be long enough to wrap around the outside of the two filed protrusions. This would allow the clip to be slipped over the end of the light. To fix the clip in place drill the clip and drill and tap the two protrusions in question and fasten the clip with small allen screws, type NiteCore or McGizmo. This would leave only the actuall clip part protuding outside the lights diameter. If this isn´t an issue then drilling and tapping on the ends of the two protusions to mount the clip would save a lot of work- a lot less bending and no filing necessary. Now if I can only find a sutable piece of titanium.:naughty:


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 12, 2008)

Did some fiddling with my light and the clip from my old Proton. This gives an idea of how I think a clip could be designed to lock into the lanyard hole and be easy for us to add to our lights. I suppose I could use some wire and make this arrangement work, but it would probably end up scratching the finish. Better wait for a prettier solution.






Geoff


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## WadeF (Dec 12, 2008)

Liteflux LF3XT with the Zebralight H30 clip installed:


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## h2oflyer (Dec 12, 2008)

LF3XT INITIAL OBSERVATIONS :thumbsup:

These observations are based on comparison to lights I have and my preferences. IMO best $60 light available !

BUILD QUALITY -- Excellent, except for grit on threads and sharp corners on tail cap cross.
ANODIZING -- Jet black with no imperfections (I prefer dark charcoal like my BitZ. 
REFLECTOR -- It's definately frosty looking - must work - no Cree rings
BEAM & OUTPUT -- Nice floody beam - cool slightly blue - I estimate about 10% brighter than my NDI Silver and Seol SSC BitZ(both 120/120L)

Took me awhile to get used to the electronic switch( no tactile feedback)
but I've got it now. My first impression after playing for 1st hour was what the heck did I buy. I LOVE THE CUI & FUI .

I've put mine to work the last two days. Need a light to check under tractor trailers in the dark and daylight.

FUI set in 5 modes 15% - 50% - 66% - 2.5 sec. beacon @ 0.2 brightness and Hi Freq strobe @ 100%. I use the low slow beacon as a find me blinker(probably run for 4-6 months). The 100% strobe allows me to place the light down without holding it in an emergency(vehicle accident etc.) I consider the FUI my bag of tricks & toys!

The real working EXCELLENCE of the LF3XT is the CUI.

Other than double clicks to go between modes the only comands I use are 
5C+PH to toggle back and forth between FUI &CUI, and 4C to add or remove momentary which only works in CUI. I don't bother with 1C+PH to get 100% . Just ramp low for night and ramp up to fight the Sun. I've still got 0.2 low a double click away .

That's what makes this light great -- allways tuns on in last user brightness when in CUI . Want a simple light ? Leave in CUI @ 100% and 
switch on & off.

Only glitch I found in instructions was turning memory back on. 3C+PH would not work after countless tries. in desperation tried 3C. BINGO it worked.

Great value @ $60 
I thought I was buying a toy with flashlight attached. This a real working light.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 12, 2008)

Glad you like it, h2oflyer. I've been singing the praises of it since getting mine. It's hard to imagine anyone would be disappointed.

Geoff


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## h2oflyer (Dec 12, 2008)

I don't have a digital camera and don't know how to stuff pictures in this machine so I can't post pics.

Forgot a few other observations:

Cross grooving (can't really call it knurling) is just right - grippy but not aggressive.

Lens looks a little thin - don't know how it will stand up to a fall.

Love that voltmeter.especially taking readings under load.

Walter


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## Illumination (Dec 13, 2008)

h2oflyer said:


> LF3XT INITIAL OBSERVATIONS :thumbsup:
> 
> These observations are based on comparison to lights I have and my preferences. IMO best $60 light available !
> 
> ...



+1. This light gives awesome bang for the buck. The quality blows away many other lights in its price range. Awesome beam quality with no cree rings! Extremely well made body.


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## jled (Dec 13, 2008)

It's a great lite. The only problem I'm having is it always gives me 00 for battery voltage. All other functions seem to work fine.


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## StandardBattery (Dec 13, 2008)

*Alright where is the mail delivery...* I don't have much time to play with lights right now, but all the excitement is making me anxious to get mine. I decided to grab a LF5XT while I was at it. I like 1AA lights but had given away many of them. It seems like recently there have been a number of nice ones so I'm adding a few. Too bad the LF3XT was not available with a different anodizing, but if that's my biggest problem I'll be very happy. I chose natural for the LF5, but it does not look like my favorite tint of natural.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 13, 2008)

jled said:


> It's a great lite. The only problem I'm having is it always gives me 00 for battery voltage. All other functions seem to work fine.



Are you sure you are giving the switch 5 quick pops from the ON position? This will work in either the CUI or FUI. This would be the first report of a malfunction, I think.

Geoff


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## jled (Dec 13, 2008)

Yes, I have tried it over and over including different batteries.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 13, 2008)

I hate that the light's not behaving for you. One more long shot solution that you've probably tried is to go into Function Setting Mode to do a reset to factory default. Maybe leave the battery out for a bit first. Good luck.

I expect other folks will chime in soon with some ideas.

Geoff


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## jled (Dec 13, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> I hate that the light's not behaving for you. One more long shot solution that you've probably tried is to go into Function Setting Mode to do a reset to factory default. Maybe leave the battery out for a bit first. Good luck.
> 
> I expect other folks will chime in soon with some ideas.
> 
> Geoff


I reset to default several times and removed the battery for a while...problem still there.
I noticed that if the light level is below 50% it gives a reading of 0.0 but if it's above 50% then it reads 0.1. I've also tried leaving the light on for several minutes before doing the test.
Other than the problem of reading battery voltage this is the best light I've owned.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 13, 2008)

h2oflyer said:


> LF3XT INITIAL OBSERVATIONS :thumbsup:
> 
> The real working EXCELLENCE of the LF3XT is the CUI.
> 
> ...


 
4C works in *both* the CUI and in the FUI to add or remove momentary. Not only that but if you toggle on or off momentary in one interface, it does the same operation in the other interface.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 13, 2008)

jled said:


> It's a great lite. The only problem I'm having is it always gives me 00 for battery voltage. All other functions seem to work fine.


 
I am curious about one thing. Go into the FUI. Do 3+PH to get into the operation setting mode. Then do a 5C to get a brightness report of the level you are in. Do you get a correct brightness report? If you don't, I suspect you are doing something wrong with the 5 clicks in rapid succession. (This same command, 5C, does different things, depending on whether you are in operation mode, or in operation setting mode. In operation mode it gives the battery report. In operation setting mode, it gives a brightness report (percentage of total output.) 

If you are getting a correct brightness report, then you are issuing the clicks correctly and there is something wrong with the light. You can return it to EliteLED for an exchange. They are the US distributer and will handle any issues no matter where you bought the light.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 13, 2008)

I'm glad to see so many others as excited about the LF3XT as I am. I'm hoping others may finally recognize Liteflux as a top quality light maker and for the features that have made this such a cool light to have. Hopefully they can get as much into the mainstream of attention here as some other big names.

For those who want a clip I have a special but very simple design I made in Titanium that can be used with a light like this. I made it originally for the Fenix P2D but it can be used on almost any light. I'm not selling it right now as my shop has been on hold for around two years and will not likely be back up and running for at least a few more months. I made some of the first clips in Titanium for the HDS lights including the bezel up/down design I came up with (I later found out Mr. Bulk had a similar design first) but when my shop had to be moved I had no time or way to make any more. Unfortunately I feel I need to protect this design as my last design for the HDS was essentially duplicated and sold by someone else here after I stated I could not make them for some time. Fortunate for those who wanted a clip and I would not really object to such duplication although it might have been nice to at least have been asked about it or given some credit for originating it. 

So I'm going to think about it but for now I'll just say it is a VERY simple design that might or might not satisfy clipaholics. I have not seen anything else like it on any other light anywhere so I do think it's unique and comes from my background of thinking outside the box ( matrix ).


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## h2oflyer (Dec 13, 2008)

BabyDoc Yes I am aware that 4C momentary works in both CUI & FUI
with memory ON - found it confusing with memory OFF.
I guess I wasn't clear in how I use my setup.
I don't have 100% set up in FUI. I use momentary in CUI to access 100%
from off when I have it ramped to max. Since I can get 100% in FUI with
a PH from my lower settings I don't "" recognize" momentary in FUI.

Only benefit in my setup is momentary on mode 5 stobe from off. I have memory ON .

Good call on suggesting the 5C brightness report to trouble shoot the voltmeter problem.


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## jled (Dec 13, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I am curious about one thing. Go into the FUI. Do 3+PH to get into the operation setting mode. Then do a 5C to get a brightness report of the level you are in. Do you get a correct brightness report? If you don't, I suspect you are doing something wrong with the 5 clicks in rapid succession. (This same command, 5C, does different things, depending on whether you are in operation mode, or in operation setting mode. In operation mode it gives the battery report. In operation setting mode, it gives a brightness report (percentage of total output.)
> 
> If you are getting a correct brightness report, then you are issuing the clicks correctly and there is something wrong with the light. You can return it to EliteLED for an exchange. They are the US distributer and will handle any issues no matter where you bought the light.


Yes, I have tried the 5 clicks in operation setting mode. results from lowest to highest using step mode:
0.0
0.1-no visible change in output.
0.2
0.2
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.6
0.8
11
17
25
37
56
83
100


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## BabyDoc (Dec 13, 2008)

Do the 5 clicks in rapid succession and you will get a brightness report. You are doing the 5 clicks separately, and increasing the brightness in steps. This won't get you the brightness report.

What you need to do is repetitively click 5 times with less than 0.3 sec between each click. If you are doing this correctly, you will get a brightness report in the operation setting mode. If you aren't, you aren't issuing the command correctly. That could be the same problem when you are in operational mode and aren't getting a voltage report.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 13, 2008)

I'm getting a slight difference in my brightness report using the 1C method of ramping.
00 02 01(no visible change) 02 02 02 04 06 08 11 17 25 37 56 83 100

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Dec 13, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> I'm getting a slight difference in my brightness report using the 1C method of ramping.
> 00 02 01(no visible change) 02 02 02 04 06 08 11 17 25 37 56 83 100
> 
> Geoff


 
Geoff, the reason you aren't getting the changes is you need to do a 1C+PH, to actually ramp. The longer the PH after the 1C, the more change in brightness you will see. It really ramps SLOOOWWWLLLYYY! Usually I do the 1C in steps alone to get the coarse adjustment to a ballpark light level. Then 1C+PH to get slight changes, which I confirm with the brightness report.


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## jled (Dec 14, 2008)

Flying Turtle said:


> I'm getting a slight difference in my brightness report using the 1C method of ramping.
> 00 02 01(no visible change) 02 02 02 04 06 08 11 17 25 37 56 83 100
> 
> Geoff


I went through the brightness report 2 more times and realized I made a mistake when writing down the numbers. Both times my report was exactly as yours.
00 02 01 (no visible change) 02 02 02 04 06 08 11 17 25 37 56 83 100.
Still 00 or 01 for battery voltage is all I get. All other functions have been tested and work fine. Looks like I may have to send it back for a replacement. Am I the only one with this problem?


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 14, 2008)

Hey BabyDoc. I was just trying to duplicate the brightness report as jled had done his. I've done the 1C+PH trick for slow ramping, but wanted to see if my numbers would be the same doing the coarse logarithmic method (1C). Kind of strange that it goes to 02, then back to 01. 

I still haven't gotten tired playing with this sweet little light.

Geoff


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## bluecrow76 (Dec 14, 2008)

Mine is waiting for me under the Christmas tree. Looks like this one is going to be fun to play with! :twothumbs


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## jled (Dec 14, 2008)

I tried the voltage readings again at many different brightness setting and have confirmed that any setting below 50% reads 00 and any setting 50% and above reads at 01. It seems odd that all other functions work fine except the voltage readings. The next step I tried was to program 2.0v warning & 1.8v shutdown and sure enough the light gives me the warning after being on about 15 sec. and then flashes 16 and shuts off. This is with a new CR123 battery reading 3.2v. I have played around with light so much I know it like the back of my hand. Unfortunately it looks like I need to return it.:mecryon't get me wrong, I really love this light and will get a replacement for sure.

J


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## h2oflyer (Dec 14, 2008)

jled

something doesn't seem right here -- you have programed 2.0 warning /1.8 shutdown which is for 2AA NiMH battery and it shuts off with fresh CR123 @ 3.2 V.

if you remove over-discharge protection and light stays on with fresh CR123 I would suspect the voltage measurement sub-function is not working. 

this doesn't explain why you can't get a brightness report


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## BabyDoc (Dec 14, 2008)

I believe Jled is able to get a brightness report which means he is doing 5C correctly. It sounds like his light is misreading the battery voltage both with the 5C command giving a low reading and with the protection on, shutting down the light. What he was saying is that under different loads (different brightness settings), he gets 2 voltage readings, both low, either 00 or 01.


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## h2oflyer (Dec 14, 2008)

Good call using battery protection function as diagnostic tool.
Gonna have to remember that one. Looks like 5C is on demand
voltage reading and battery protection function is getting constant 
low voltage readings and going into shutdown.


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## jled (Dec 14, 2008)

h2oflyer said:


> Good call using battery protection function as diagnostic tool.
> Gonna have to remember that one. Looks like 5C is on demand
> voltage reading and battery protection function is getting constant
> low voltage readings and going into shutdown.


The difficult part was getting the light reset back to disable battery protection mode.
It took several tries because the light would shut down before I could get through all the button pushing sequences. I have become quite proficient in programming and using this light and I really like its functionality.
What would be really cool is a micro film disk that could be stored inside the light and put on the lens to project the operating menus on the wall if ever needed.

J


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## BabyDoc (Dec 15, 2008)

jled said:


> The difficult part was getting the light reset back to disable battery protection mode.
> It took several tries because the light would shut down before I could get through all the button pushing sequences. I have become quite proficient in programming and using this light and I really like its functionality.
> What would be really cool is a micro film disk that could be stored inside the light and put on the lens to project the operating menus on the wall if ever needed.
> 
> J


 

I was wondering how you did that? I would imagine you had to set the light on the lowest output and be real quick about getting into the function mode and shutting off the protection.


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 15, 2008)

I got my LF3XT today, ordered it on 2nd december.

First impression : WOW!!! :twothumbs
... and I hated it after reading the description! :shakehead

The build quality is excellent. The spring was lying in a wrong way i the tube, but that was corrected soon. As it isn't fixed, this is quite normal after transport without a cell, but you should have a look before putting a cell in.

I printed the manuel from CPF and studied it before. So, it was quite easy for me to get used to the programmation. At first, I didn't undertand how to switch the memory on and off, after I tried 3C+PH it worked.

I also like the CUI, while it seemed pretty useless to me before having the light. Very easy to operate! But, I wanted the FUI, so I played a while with it until I had a good programmation. It's really not that difficult to program, once you get used to it.

The switch is special, so doing several clicks isn't always that easy. I have big fingers...  One big negative point : Why is the thing around the switch so sharp everywhere? That can kill your pockets and doesn't feel good. The edges should be rounded a little bit!

Turning the light on and getting full output, I immediately noticed the smoothness of the beam. Quite powerfull, no beam artefacts, reminded me of my L4. Excellent work, but not a thrower probably. The tint is rather cool, on the purplish side, I like that kind. The LOW is what I've been searching for, a real LOW! Exactly what I need at night. The ramping i the CUI is also very effective.

One question : When the memory is switched on, the light blinks once when turning it on. Is that normal behavior?

This was surely one of the best purchases I ever did, I'll keep an eye on Liteflux. The presentation in the wooden case is also nice and to add some lube is a very good idea, I still haven't got any at home.

The lens is s clear that I thought at first they forgot to put it in... :laughing:

Now I'll play arond with the modes a little bit... 

Greets,

Henk


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## Norm (Dec 15, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> One question : When the memory is switched on, the light blinks once when turning it on. Is that normal behavior?


Yes. 
Great choice Henk, the more I play with the light more I like it.
Norm


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## BabyDoc (Dec 15, 2008)

Henk, with "memory on", the blinking is not normal before the light goes constant. 

Did you mean to say with "momentary on", it flashes once? I'll bet that's what you meant to say. If so, the light WILL flash before going constant. The reason is quite simple. If you wish, you can do repetitive short flashes in the momentary mode and the light will not go constant. But if you click only once and then pause for more than 0.3 sec and the light isn't expecting more commands, it goes constant. It has to flash once, because the light doesn't know whether you are going to be issuing consecutive momentary flashes or pausing to go constant after only the first click (flash).

If you have big fingers, always use the tip of your finger in the same direction as the length of the flashlight, rather than the flat fleshy part of your finger just pressing downward. In that way you will be able to bottom out the button for more complete electrical contact with fewer misfiriings.


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 15, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Henk, with "memory on", the blinking is not normal before the light goes constant.
> 
> Did you mean to say with "momentary on", it flashes once? I'll bet that's what you meant to say. If so, the light WILL flash before going constant. The reason is quite simple. If you wish, you can do repetitive short flashes in the momentary mode and the light will not go constant. But if you click only once and then pause for more than 0.3 sec and the light isn't expecting more commands, it goes constant. It has to flash once, because the light doesn't know whether you are going to be issuing consecutive momentary flashes or pausing to go constant after only the first click (flash).
> 
> If you have big fingers, always use the tip of your finger in the same direction as the length of the flashlight, rather than the flat fleshy part of your finger just pressing downward. In that way you will be able to bottom out the button for more complete electrical contact with fewer misfiriings.



Yes, you're right of course and your explanation sounds logical! I switched on both features, so I didn' remember correctly which one was causing it.

Btw, thanks to you I bought this wonderful light. I'll EDC it for a while, play-time is over now, I have a configuration that suits well now. I only wish, the memory would also work in the CUI, so that the light could start on minimum. OK, I can program the user mode to minimum, but I don't think that is the real point.

I'll stay with the FUI when I use the light at night in the house on minimum and will probably switch to the CUI outside, the ramping is just a great feature!

Greets,

Henk


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## StandardBattery (Dec 15, 2008)

I'm still waiting to try LF3-XT, but it arrived today with LF5-XT. Very well packaged for shipment from eliteLED. Great place to buy from. I had not bought anything from them in a while, but they knew I was a returning customer. 

The LF5-XT is great, I have not tried any programming though. I agree with the other the build quality of the light is supurb. I really like the Natural color of the LF5-XT as well, from the photos I was expecting somethink more like Fenix old Natural color, but the LiteFlux is a very nice satin grey/silver with just a hint of nat tint. I'm much more pleased with the color than I expected. I don't know if mine is just extra light colored or not.

Again as others have mentioned the beam is flawless. Quite a feat for a CREE. No doubt the deap reflector is well designed to match this emitter. The beam really looks awesomely smooth. No one would think it was a CREE emitter. I dare say the smoothest artifact free beam of any CREE based light. It matches the Seoul, no problem. The 100mm length of the light is a little long, but it is put to good use with this reflector. 

The programming still looks a little scary, but I'll only need to program it a couple of times I suspect. 

The timing on the switch seems a little wacky when determining clicks and such. I've been able to deal with it, but they need to maybe optimize that part of the code. Maybe they need hardware debouncer rather than trying to do it in software... I don't know, but the responsiveness is just not natural even for an electronic MCU controlled switch. That's my only minor issue at this point.

This light deserves to be at least as popular as the D10, if not more so.

OK... back to play... and then a little test of the LF3-XT.


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## h2oflyer (Dec 15, 2008)

Some other observations on my LF3XT

When in CUI,i if you are in 0.2 low and issue 4C (momentary) command , after double confirmation flash, light comes back on in User mode. Same
thing happens when you 5C for battery report.It will come back on in User mode. No big deal if you know about it.

Run time on high doesn't appear to be that good compared to other lights I have. I only use primary cells. I'll try reducing high to 80% and see if run time is longer.

BTW 1/4 turn loosen head for switch lockout works great


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## BabyDoc (Dec 15, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> . I only wish, the memory would also work in the CUI, so that the light could start on minimum. OK, I can program the user mode to minimum, but I don't think that is the real point.
> 
> I'll stay with the FUI when I use the light at night in the house on minimum and will probably switch to the CUI outside, the ramping is just a great feature!
> 
> ...


 
I guess LiteFlux tried to make the CUI as simple as possible. In the CUI, think of the light as just a user definable one mode light, with shortcuts to high and low. It can't get simpler than that. Don't think of the CUI as a 3 mode light. It really isn't, since unlike the FUI, you aren't forced to cycle between the modes in any particular sequence. You can jump back and forth between any 2 light levels, which you can't do in the FUI except to use momentary high or momentary strobe (PH or C+PH). I suppose it would be nice to have a memory on capability in the CUI so that you could start in Min and still use user defined mode for something other than min. But with a light that ramps, what is the point of keeping every mode at some fixed value. If you want that, just use the FUI.

For example, if you really want a 3 mode light, set up your FUI with just 3 levels and turn memory off. Start with min, then cycle to 50 percent or some other most common used defined setting, and then Max. Or use it with memory on if you wish. 

I actually have my FUI now set with just 4 levels: 0.2, 2, 15, and 50 percent. I can always do a PH to get max, or a C+PH to get random strobe. My 5th mode is set for S0S but turned off. (It is easy enough to turn the the 5th mode on in the rare event I get stranded somewhere.) I have memory turned off, so the light always starts on MIN, and I cycle upward if I need to. While ramping is nice, it really isn't all that necessary. I can more quickly switch between light levels,than I can ramp. Instead of me carefully ramping to adjust to my eye's need for light, I switch to an approximate needed light level, and my eye more quickly does the fine adjustments, i.e, adapts, to that level.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 15, 2008)

h2oflyer said:


> Some other observations on my LF3XT
> 
> When in CUI,i if you are in 0.2 low and issue 4C (momentary) command , after double confirmation flash, light comes back on in User mode. Same
> thing happens when you 5C for battery report.It will come back on in User mode. No big deal if you know about it.
> ...


 

Check post #289 in this thread for details about this peculiarity. It really isn't in the user mode after the momentary toggle or battery report, it just looks that way. Try those examples in my post, and you will see what I mean. But you are right, it isn't a big deal.

I only use rechargables. Now that I am not playing with the light so much, and just using it, my runtimes are improving.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 15, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> I'm still waiting to try LF3-XT, but it arrived today with LF5-XT. Very well packaged for shipment from eliteLED. Great place to buy from. I had not bought anything from them in a while, but they knew I was a returning customer.
> 
> The LF5-XT is great, I have not tried any programming though. I agree with the other the build quality of the light is supurb. I really like the Natural color of the LF5-XT as well, from the photos I was expecting somethink more like Fenix old Natural color, but the LiteFlux is a very nice satin grey/silver with just a hint of nat tint. I'm much more pleased with the color than I expected. I don't know if mine is just extra light colored or not.
> 
> ...


 

Great minds think alike.:thumbsup: I just bought a natural LF5XT, too! Mine was just shipped today. I have a black LF5XT and just debated about getting a natural one. The announcement that LiteFlux was changing emitters forced me to pull the trigger and get the R2 LF5XT while EliteLED still had some. I am not sure I would have bought both lights at one time like you did, although once you have the LF3XT figured out, you have the LF5XT figured out as well.

There is only one difference in the programming of the LF5XT: How to turn on/off momentary. In order to turn on the momentary with the LF5XT, you have to go into the Function Menu (4C+PH) and enter the first function (3C+PH) and toggle on or off the function. Then do 3C+PH to save the change and another 3C to get out of the function mode menu. With the LF3XT, you just issue a 4C to toggle on/off that function. 

I agree that the switching with both lights takes a bit of practice, but not that much. I think the LF5XT gives a bit more tactile feedback than the LF3XT. I like that, but the at the same time the LF5XT requires slightly more switch movement to make good contacts. Therefore, repetitive clicking seems a bit easier with the LF3XT. Perhaps that's why LiteFlux was able to reduce the time between a momentary click and turn on from 0.4 sec on the LF5XT to 0.3 sec on the LF3XT. In practical terms, unless you were switching between these lights, I am not certain you would notice these differences. I will be surprised if you still are having a problem with switching after you have had the lights for a couple of days. Please let us know if you do.


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 16, 2008)

I noticed one more negative thing, which is unfortunately common to many lights : No anti-roll!

As I use i at night and put it on the nightdesk afterwards, I must be sure it stays there.

To prevent it from rolling, I normally attach a ring or a lanyard, a ring doesn't always help here (if it swaps to the inside, the light rolls as if there was no ring), I dont really like the lanyard that came with it, but I still have those that came with my L4s (which I preffer without). I removed the big round plastic things that allow you to adjust some loops. It looks great on the LF3XT! :huh:

I think it is paracord, grey as the L4. It's just a pain in the a** to get the ring on and off the coord, as it is somewhat thick, but once on, it's perfect and I can even hang it around my neck, as I have a strong neck...


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## StandardBattery (Dec 16, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Great minds think alike.:thumbsup: I just bought a natural LF5XT, too! Mine was just shipped today. I have a black LF5XT and just debated about getting a natural one. The announcement that LiteFlux was changing emitters forced me to pull the trigger and get the R2 LF5XT while EliteLED still had some. *...*


While I don't expect there to be much difference between R2 and Q5, I was happy to get the R2 as well because being an AA light I wanted the most effcient LED. I also think it is my first R2 light.

It might be good that they have switched to the Q5 though because they have been able to lower the price which I think is great. They can also now introduce a WARM tint model and increase the price for that as more people are willing to pay extra for a warm tint than for an R2.



Henk_Lu said:


> I noticed one more negative thing, which is unfortunately common to many lights : No anti-roll! *...*


Yes I noticed that too, not critical, but anti-roll would be nice. 

*Programmed!*
I did it! I manage to get Memory turned-Off and got my first 3 modes low-med-max. I still need to play more, I'll probably set it up to have 4 brightness modes. This is great in any light, but really nice in an AA model.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 16, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> It might be good that they have switched to the Q5 though because they have been able to lower the price which I think is great. They can also now introduce a WARM tint model and increase the price for that as more people are willing to pay extra for a warm tint than for an R2.
> 
> .


 
How does your R2 in your LF5XT compare to the tint of the Q5 in your LF3XT? Some people complain that the Q5 is somewhat cold in comparison to their R2. I will be suprised to see LiteFlux using a warm Q5 any time soon in the LF5XT, espcecially if they are using the same Q5s they have just gotten for the LF3XT. The current batch of Q5's in the LF3XT seems to vary little in tint, unlike the R2s that could be warm or neutral.


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## baterija (Dec 16, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> *Programmed!*
> I did it! I manage to get Memory turned-Off and got my first 3 modes low-med-max. I still need to play more, I'll probably set it up to have 4 brightness modes. This is great in any light, but really nice in an AA model.



One thing I found with my 5XT, with memory off I didn't have a reason to reduce the number of modes available. Even though I basically just use the first 4 (and mostly the first 2) I left the last mode in. With memory off if I miss a mode it's quicker (and less clicks) to just shut off and turn back on in mode 1. That way you never have to see the last mode if you don't want to. I usually leave it in SOS as an out of the way emergency function that I hopefully will never need to see.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 16, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> I noticed one more negative thing, which is unfortunately common to many lights : No anti-roll!
> 
> As I use i at night and put it on the nightdesk afterwards, I must be sure it stays there.
> 
> ...


 
I don't like the lanyard that comes with the LF3XT, either. I prefer a thinner one. I use the Fenix lanyard that comes with the L2D or the P2D. It isn't as sturdy as the one that comes with the light, but it is less likely to scratch the light, and it takes up no room in my pocket. I basically use the lanyard as both a retrieval device to get the light out of my shirt pocket, and as an antiroll device. If I had a clip, that would replace it.

Another way of keeping the light from rolling is to sit it either on the bezel or the tail end. That's what I do at night, when I sit it on my night stand.


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 16, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> I don't like the lanyard that comes with the LF3XT, either. I prefer a thinner one. I use the Fenix lanyard that comes with the L2D or the P2D. It isn't as sturdy as the one that comes with the light, but it is less likely to scratch the light, and it takes up no room in my pocket. I basically use the lanyard as both a retrieval device to get the light out of my shirt pocket, and as an antiroll device. If I had a clip, that would replace it.
> 
> Another way of keeping the light from rolling is to sit it either on the bezel or the tail end. That's what I do at night, when I sit it on my night stand.



You're right, I like the Fenix lanyards too, but unfortunately mine are all hanging around on some Fenix... :laughing:

I wonder if I couéd get some from my favourite Fenix dealer? But, lanyard are not always safe. Last sunday I let my P2D fall on a tarmac floor, because I had to carry it in the ame pocket as my napkin, I need my napkin often in cold weather and  The light still works, but has some scratches and a little piece of anodization missing on the tailcap. I wouldn't want that to happen to my nice LF3XT... 

Sit it upwards on the night stand? No way, the risk would be too high to wipe it off the table in the morning, searching with my hand for the switch of that damn radio clock that wants me to get up!


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## BabyDoc (Dec 16, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> You're right, I like the Fenix lanyards too, but unfortunately mine are all hanging around on some Fenix... :laughing:
> 
> I wonder if I couéd get some from my favourite Fenix dealer?


 

Every time I order a light from 4SEVENS, I ask for a Fenix lanyard, even if I am not ordering a Fenix light. I complain about the fat lanyard that comes with the light I am ordering and they always throw in the extra lanyard. I would imagine they might sell them to you without the lights, as well. They must have extras. Before they made a clip for the EX10, I had mine on a Fenix lanyard, too. Except for a holding a heavy tactical light, these lanyards are hard to beat.


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## h2oflyer (Dec 17, 2008)

My only real complaint about the LF3XT

The sharp corners on the tail cross !!

After 5 days of EDC while at work and carrying the light in my pocket,
this is gonna be a pocket wrecker. 

My solution for a fix will be trying to find or make a SS 1/8 th in. wide
ring to press fit on the tail cross - 0.20 / 0.30 thou wall thickness would 
probably do. Would dress up the light too - drill a hole for a split ring.

This is probably gonna be easier than trying to come up with a clip.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 18, 2008)

I actually didn't notice the sharp edges on the cross piece until it was brought up here. While mine is a bit sharp, it is no sharper than the crenalations on the bezel of my LF5XT which never bothered me, either.
Perhaps, samples of the LF3XT very regarding this sharpness and yours could be worse than mine. In any case, I am glad the tail end of the LF3XT doesn't feel the same as the bezel end. The difference in feel makes it easier to locate the switch end in the dark. Fortunately, I have yet to scratch or cut myself doing so.


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## WadeF (Dec 18, 2008)

I noticed the sharp edges on the cross on my LF3XT as soon as I got it out of the box. I wish they weren't so sharp, but for the most part it isn't a big deal. I find the sharp crenalations on my LF5XT more annoying.


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## ApoXX (Dec 20, 2008)

I <3 my new LF3XT


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 20, 2008)

@ ApoXX

Wow, some great pictures of a great light! :thumbsup:

Surely done wih an SLR... I once was an amateur photographer and spent my money on expensive lenses. :shakehead


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## snakyjake (Dec 20, 2008)

Looks like a nice Christmas tree ornament on a lanyard . I'm surprised no one has a Christmas tree all decorated with all their flashlights.


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 20, 2008)

Seriously nice pics, ApoXX. I bet the LiteFlux people would love to use them.

Geoff


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## sledhead (Dec 20, 2008)

Outstanding pictures! This light deserves the best. :twothumbs


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## ApoXX (Dec 21, 2008)

Thanks - They were indeed taken with a DSLR and 150mm macro lens. For lighting I'm using a small softbox and two IR slave flashes. It's good practice for me and it's always nice when you can combine hobbies. Here's another "ornament"  that I flipped for readibliity, I tried to get the lighting and focus a bit more spot-on. The other one is just an experiment with a shallow depth of field. LiteFlux is welcome to use any of these hehe.


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## h2oflyer (Dec 21, 2008)

Fantastic pics -- really shows off the finish quality

:thumbsup:


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## Sector7 (Dec 21, 2008)

ApoXX, those photos are stunning. If I didn't know any better, I would of thought there were from Promo Print Ads.


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## TumbleWeed (Dec 22, 2008)

Hi. :wave: 

I've searched for outdoor beamshots as they are the most useful for me when comparing lights. Have any been posted anywhere for the LF3XT? If not, will somebody take a few and post them? I'm itching to get my first light.....er....lights....and the LF3XT, pending some outdoor shots, might be one of them. 

TIA


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## gadgetnerd (Dec 22, 2008)

TumbleWeed said:


> Hi. :wave:
> 
> I've searched for outdoor beamshots as they are the most useful for me when comparing lights. Have any been posted anywhere for the LF3XT? If not, will somebody take a few and post them? I'm itching to get my first light.....er....lights....and the LF3XT, pending some outdoor shots, might be one of them.
> 
> TIA



I'll try to to post some soon, but if you want some free advice just get yourself an LF3XT now - it's that good. You can then just confirm how good your beam is by comparing it to the beamshots  The LF3XT has one of the nicest smoothest artifact free beams of any production torch.


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## WadeF (Dec 22, 2008)

Now that I've had time to use my LF3XT for awhile there is a small list of things that I'd love to see improved on. While no EDC is perfect, the LF3XT is probably the closest thing to perfect I've tried. Things that could make it better, for me:

1. Warmer color temp. It may not be blue, but it's cool. 
2. A bit more output on MAX.
3. Get rid of the sharp edges on the tail.
4. Find a way to make the button feel a bit more solid. Mine feels kinda soft and sloppy. 

These are minor details, but areas I think they could improve on. 

LF3XT is still my main EDC.  For example, I just went upstairs, turned it on, always starts in min. low. Then I double tapped to go up to a medium low, then double tapped again for medium. Then when I needed a burst of full power I could hold the button down, then let go and it goes back to medium. I love the UI.  That is in FUI mode.


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## jled (Dec 22, 2008)

Very well spoken. They have come so close to the perfect light especially when you consider the price. I would definitely be willing to pay more if they made improvement to those four areas you pointed out. I hope they come out with a 2AA body soon.


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## BabyDoc (Dec 23, 2008)

Wade, I know what you mean when you say the button is soft. But compared to the EX10, soft is great! But I am not sure what you mean by sloppy?
Do you get misfires with it? I don't. Does it turn on accidentally in your pocket? Mine suprisingly doesn't.

Maybe by sloppy, you mean it needs more tactile feedback? If so I would agree it could use a bit more, other than just bottoming out. It's nice that the travel of the switch is short, making multiple click commands easier, but if the switch were to give a tactile, but not audible, click, similar to the p120, you might feel more sure of making correct electrical contact.

I really don't think the light lacks in brightness, compared to say the EX10, a very similar light. If it lacks anything, it lacks throw. LiteFlux achieved the smooth beam with its ultra orange peeled reflector, at the expense of throw, I think. For indoor use the smooth beam is a plus where its throw is more than adequate, but for outside use, it is inadequate for spotting addresses on houses from the road. You need a different flashlight for that. Thats why I keep a Husky 2D under my front seat.


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## matrixshaman (Dec 23, 2008)

I with BabyDoc on the tail switch -- I wouldn't change a thing on that. A brighter 'burst' mode might be welcome but it's still not going to throw like the bigger lights with smooth or big reflectors. Color temp on mine looks great. I think the color tint is very much personal preference and will always vary greatly from user to user. So unless manufacturers start offering specific tint ranges I doubt everyone will be happy on that detail. I would like to see it with a clip but it's not a big issue to me and I've got a solution of sorts any way (I mentioned in a previous post here). 

I see selfbuilt just ordered an LF3XT so we'll see one of his great reviews before long. I had intended to do one but I'm still hard at a project that's 7 days a week and little time for much else except collapsing in front of the 'puter so I'm glad the LF3XT will finally get a review and from one of our best :thumbsup:


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## mr.snakeman (Dec 23, 2008)

Received my LF3XT yesterday. Six days, not bad! Some thoughts: love the switch, color tint is good, the beam shape is very good- not a thrower, but good for the close-up type of work that I need in my edc light that I use at work. Ramping up and down works great and I do like the low low (lowest of all my lights). What I don´t like: the knurling on my exampel sucks- the head is o.k., but the tail knurling is abysmally bad: in one direction the grooves are a little too deep and the other direction almost non-existant giving a very strange feeling when holding. Not nice at all. I agree with others who think that the corners on the tail are rather sharp. In any case the yeas win over the nays and I think I´m going to enjoy this light.:twothumbs


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## Henk_Lu (Dec 23, 2008)

WadeF said:


> 1. Warmer color temp. It may not be blue, but it's cool.
> 2. A bit more output on MAX.
> 3. Get rid of the sharp edges on the tail.
> 4. Find a way to make the button feel a bit more solid. Mine feels kinda soft and sloppy.
> ...



You are completely right. For the price, they did an excellent job, but constructive critics can't be bad...

1. I agree, all LEDs shoud be warmer, they are workig on that point, I like the R2. The Q2 is perhaps a little bit too warm, I don't know the Q3 yet.

2. I think that way of ALL my lights!  My cars also all lack of performance though...

3. That's the main point and it wouldn't cost that much to soften them!

4. I also have sometimes problems with it. It doesn't just feel perfect and series of clicks are difficult, also on or off sometimes doesn't work because I don't push hard enough. The switch is also too little for my big fingers I suppose, so I just can't push it in deep enough if my finger is not exactly in the middle. I'd like a larger switch! 

If people from Liteflux read this : You did a great job, if you improve a little bit, you can beat everything comparable on the market even if the price raises a little bit. I'll compare the LF3XT to the Ra Clicky soon, as I think they ARE comparable! :wave:

Greets,

Henk


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## WadeF (Dec 23, 2008)

Henk_Lu said:


> 1. I agree, all LEDs shoud be warmer, they are workig on that point, I like the R2. The Q2 is perhaps a little bit too warm, I don't know the Q3 yet.




R2, Q2, Q5, P4, etc, has nothing to do with tint, that's the efficiency bin. Tint bins would be WH, WC, WD, WF, WG, 5A, etc. 5A being in the neutral white group, WH, WC, WD, WF, WG are in the cool white group.

Babydoc,

As far as the switch I personally prefer the feel of the piston in the Nitecores.  It feels solid, where the LF3 button feels like it's just resting on a little rubber micro switch. It's fine and works fine for me, just feels funny.


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## Illumination (Dec 23, 2008)

WadeF said:


> As far as the switch I personally prefer the feel of the piston in the Nitecores.  It feels solid, where the LF3 button feels like it's just resting on a little rubber micro switch. It's fine and works fine for me, just feels funny.



Agreed. However, just about everything else about the LF is better (fit & finish, reflector, etc.). Well except maybe the UI - that's a personal preference.


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## clintb (Dec 23, 2008)

WadeF said:


> As far as the switch I personally prefer the feel of the piston in the Nitecores.  It feels solid, where the LF3 button feels like it's just resting on a little rubber micro switch. It's fine and works fine for me, just feels funny.


I like the LF5XT switch just a tiny bit more than that of the LF3XT since it has a more definite feel / click to it. That being said, there's no question when the LF3XT's button is pressed, at least to me. It really is darned near the perfect EDC.


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## h2oflyer (Dec 24, 2008)

I had a problem getting used to the electonic switch at first. I was used to the heavy solid CLICK under the rubber boot on my Fenix and Nitecore clickys.

After EDC'ing the LF3XT for a week and a half I've grown to appreciate this switch. There is a quiet audible (click) when you bottom out the switch. At first I was using the finger tip , but I can now use the finger pad. Finger automatically falls between the cross cutouts.

Looks like there was more to the design of tail cross than just tail stand.

Walter


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## TumbleWeed (Dec 24, 2008)

gadgetnerd said:


> I'll try to to post some soon, but if you want some free advice just get yourself an LF3XT now - it's that good. You can then just confirm how good your beam is by comparing it to the beamshots  The LF3XT has one of the nicest smoothest artifact free beams of any production torch.



:thanks: I'm close to pulling the PayPal trigger for the LF3XT but may wait for the review expected out soon plus some beamshots.


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## DM51 (Dec 24, 2008)

Continued here...


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