# New Mini Maglite Pro+ LED Flashlight



## Hitthespot (Feb 13, 2012)

I just received my new Mini Mag Pro+ from Brightguy.com. First impressions are, its a Maglite! Same look, with the same twist for spot / flood beam. The interface is somewhat different. Point the light down and it turns on in low mode. Turn the light on in any other position and it turns on in high mode. It appears just a little longer than the old 2AA maglight with just a slightly smaller head, but I don't have one to compare to. I will have to wait until night to compare but the light seems more like around 200 lumens that 245 to me.


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## Scenic (Feb 13, 2012)

cool, let us know how it is when it gets dark! Just ordered mine after seeing this post. Can't find them anywhere else. Another poster showed some beam shots that have been taken down now, but it looked warmer than the xl series. Do you have any of the XL's to compare it to?


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## Chicken Drumstick (Feb 13, 2012)

Nice. Although if it's ANSI rated at 245 lumens, I'm not sure I'd believe it's only making 200 lumens as a visual observation.


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## dealgrabber2002 (Feb 13, 2012)

HitTheSpot,

You mentioned pointing down will switch to low mode, what if I want to use high mode when I am pointing downward to look for things.


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## Crushmaster (Feb 13, 2012)

A new US-made flashlight out on the market - excellent. :thumbsup: Thanks for posting - I look forward to seeing beamshots.
God bless,
Joel ><>.


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## Hitthespot (Feb 13, 2012)

dealgrabber2002 said:


> HitTheSpot,
> 
> You mentioned pointing down will switch to low mode, what if I want to use high mode when I am pointing downward to look for things.



It's only when you turn the light on. If you point the light down "when you turn it on" it will turn on in low mode. If you point the light in any other direction "when you turn it on" it will turn on in high mode. 

Hope this helps clarify.

Bill


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## jonnyfgroove (Feb 13, 2012)

How is the PWM on low mode?


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## Hitthespot (Feb 13, 2012)

jonnyfgroove said:


> How is the PWM on low mode?



I can't detect any. However, I have never been particularly sensitive to PWM. I have never detected any PWM on lights that I've owned, even known offenders. So don't use me as a final judge.


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## StudFreeman (Feb 13, 2012)

I check if PWM is being used by waving my hand right in front of a light. Works first time, everytime :thumbsup:. If PWM is slow enough, ala Rebel MiniMags, you can see weird single frames of your fingers. Hopefully Pro/+ uses a good old current limiting circuit though.


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## jabe1 (Feb 13, 2012)

Can you see if regular Minimag tailcaps fit? I'm hoping a Kroll switch will fit.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 13, 2012)

Neat mode system.

How many lumens do you figure on low?


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## Crushmaster (Feb 13, 2012)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> Neat mode system.
> 
> How many lumens do you figure on low?


According to BrightGuy, low is 25%, so it'd be around 60 lumens.
God bless,
Joel ><>.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 13, 2012)

I think I would find the discharge graph on low at 25% rather amusing. 

27 hours...?

Why the disclaimer not to use lithium "AA" and NiMh?


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## LilKevin715 (Feb 14, 2012)

I assume the emitter used is a XP-G (can anyone verify)? Assuming the emitter is a XP-G (bin obviously unknown, assume at least R5) a little math can be done on the amp draw.

245 lumens OTF would mean approximately ~320 emitter lumens (75% optical efficiency). To reach 320 emitter lumens a current draw would be in the neighborhood of 900 to 1000ma. With a Vf of around 3.35 @ 1000ma that would mean a power consumption (Pout) of 3.35 watts. Obviously Pin does not equal Pout so I'll throw out guess of a DC boost circuit efficiency of lets say around 80%. That would mean a Pin of 4.19 watts. Current draw of a 2AA nimh setup would be ~1.75 amps.. ouch.

This is all purely speculation, but just something to think about.


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## Crushmaster (Feb 14, 2012)

LilKevin715 said:


> I assume the emitter used is a XP-G (can anyone verify)? Assuming the emitter is a XP-G (bin obviously unknown, assume at least R5) a little math can be done on the amp draw.


Yep, according to this, it's an XP-G.
God bless,
Joel ><>.


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## LilKevin715 (Feb 14, 2012)

Oh yea forgot to add, can anyone unscrew the head and see how good the thermal contact of the pill/module is with the battery tube? 245 lumens OTF is nice and all... but it wont mean much if there is a poor thermal path.


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## wheel (Feb 14, 2012)

I would suppose it is not regulated, anyone know?


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## Robin24k (Feb 14, 2012)

It is definately regulated, I would expect to see a drop to 25 or 50% after 12 minutes. I'll post runtime graphs after I get my samples...


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## wheel (Feb 14, 2012)

Robin24k said:


> It is definately regulated, I would expect to see a drop to 25 or 50% after 12 minutes. I'll post runtime graphs after I get my samples...



Thanks Robin, looking forward to your results. Ordered one today, expect it by thursday.


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## StudFreeman (Feb 14, 2012)

LEDAdd1ct said:


> Why the disclaimer not to use lithium "AA" and NiMh?



L92 and NiMH cells really should be fine. My older (Rebel) Minimag was brightest and ran longest on lithium primaries, and crappy Energizer 2500s were close but didn't run as long. The old Minimag Rebels just used a voltage boost converter though, and current to the emitter varied with voltage input. Shouldn't be an issue with the Pro lights, as they're probably regulated like the XL and ML lights (alkalines- :sick2:...NiMH-).





I chock up the warning/advisory to a conspiracy with the big battery manufacturers...


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## betweenrides (Feb 14, 2012)

Eneloops shouldn't be an issue, right?


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## StudFreeman (Feb 15, 2012)

Eneloops will be the best option for the Mini Mag Pro lights. As LilKevin pointed out, this light will draw considerable current (for AA cells) on high mode, which will cause alkaline cells to suffer debilitating voltage droop. Rechargeables will chug away at ~1.2 volts till the bitter end.


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## Phaserburn (Feb 15, 2012)

Nimh would be a problem if they were counting on alk voltage sag to limit current and therefore heat in a low mass body. Remember, Mag designs lights to be run on alks! That is their market. So many members criticize Mag for this and don't get it.


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## betweenrides (Feb 15, 2012)

StudFreeman said:


> Eneloops will be the best option for the Mini Mag Pro lights. As LilKevin pointed out, this light will draw considerable current (for AA cells) on high mode, which will cause alkaline cells to suffer debilitating voltage droop. Rechargeables will chug away at ~1.2 volts till the bitter end.



Thanks, Stud.

And I can honestly say that that phrase has never come out of my mouth before....


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## Truejdm (Feb 15, 2012)

betweenrides said:


> Thanks, Stud.
> 
> And I can honestly say that that phrase has never come out of my mouth before....



Haha


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 15, 2012)

Debilitating voltage droop is nothing to sneeze at. Symptoms include lack of energy, depressed voltage, inability to deliver current on demand, and, if alone for a very, very long time, even :green:.

Make sure to eat plenty of vegetables, exercise lights daily, and always, always stick with Eneloops or "AA" lithium primary cells.


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## THE PUNISHER (Feb 15, 2012)

nice.
i have not saw those are these on the market?
where do i buy one?

thx


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## Mr. Tone (Feb 15, 2012)

It's great to see Maglite getting current on emitters and output. 245 ANSI lumens is a lot and we were all freakin' out when we broke the 200 OTF barrier not long ago. Finally your average joe can get some decent output from a small form factor at big box stores. I also love how Maglite finds a way to keep the costs very reasonable and still they are made in the US.


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## larsen222 (Feb 15, 2012)

THE PUNISHER said:


> nice.
> i have not saw those are these on the market?
> where do i buy one?
> 
> thx



I ordered two of them from these guys and I'll get them Friday!
http://www.zbattery.com/Maglite-2AA-MiniMag-Pro-Plus-LED-Flashlight-Black


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## betweenrides (Feb 15, 2012)

THE PUNISHER said:


> nice.
> i have not saw those are these on the market?
> where do i buy one?
> 
> thx



Have not seen in retail stores yet, but according to Maglite support, Gander Mtn in US will be one of the first. For now only online availability. This *thread* mentions a few options - go to page 6-7.

While typing this, my new Pro+ was delivered....


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## Truejdm (Feb 15, 2012)

Someone here should be the first to post a review with beam shots on YouTube.


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## wheel (Feb 15, 2012)

betweenrides said:


> While typing this, my new Pro+ was delivered....



Hope you will provide us with some information. I am particularly interested in how long on the high mode before it starts to dim down. thanks


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## my#1hobby (Feb 15, 2012)

Lets go people, I know some of you have your lights already. Lets see some beamshots OR a written opinion of it compared to some other well known lights (brightness) in the same category.


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## Scenic (Feb 15, 2012)

Yes, i KNOW some of you have them by now. If no one posts anything and mine comes today, ill try and post some feedback tonight.


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## my#1hobby (Feb 15, 2012)

Scenic said:


> If no one posts anything and mine comes today, ill try and post some feedback tonight.


That would be greatly appreciated!


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## Scenic (Feb 15, 2012)

Got mine! Had just a few minutes at lunch to take some quick photos. I compared it to my 300 lumen Jetbeam BC20, and it seems almost as bright. In the photos, mag is on the right. The spot to flood feature doesn't do that much, seems more for fine tuning and cleaning up the beam profile than actually doing spot to flood. Once i turned it just right to get a nice spot, it compared well to the clean profile of the Jetbeam. The tint is slightly different, and it is less floody. I am very happy so far, and can't wait to try it out tonight. I will post some outdoor beam shots if i can later on.


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## my#1hobby (Feb 15, 2012)

Scenic said:


> Got mine! Had just a few minutes at lunch to take some quick photos. I compared it to my 300 lumen Jetbeam BC20, and it seems almost as bright. In the photos, mag is on the right. The spot to flood feature doesn't do that much, seems more for fine tuning and cleaning up the beam profile than actually doing spot to flood. Once i turned it just right to get a nice spot, it compared well to the clean profile of the Jetbeam. The tint is slightly different, and it is less floody. I am very happy so far, and can't wait to try it out tonight. I will post some outdoor beam shots if i can later on.


Finally some beamshots. Very nice, thank you!!


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## StudFreeman (Feb 15, 2012)

Appreciate the shots, Scenic. It's kind of hard to gauge color temperature/tint from pics. What's it like in person?


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## my#1hobby (Feb 15, 2012)

Scenic said:


> Got mine! Had just a few minutes at lunch to take some quick photos. I compared it to my 300 lumen Jetbeam BC20, and it seems almost as bright. In the photos, mag is on the right. The spot to flood feature doesn't do that much, seems more for fine tuning and cleaning up the beam profile than actually doing spot to flood. Once i turned it just right to get a nice spot, it compared well to the clean profile of the Jetbeam. The tint is slightly different, and it is less floody. I am very happy so far, and can't wait to try it out tonight. I will post some outdoor beam shots if i can later on.



Just noticed your serial number is 5054 and the OPs serial number is 5055 lol.


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## Scenic (Feb 15, 2012)

That's funny about the serial number. I think we both ordered from Brightguy.com from the same batch. The temperature is hard to describe. I don't have much experience comparing tints, but it seems slightly less yellow than my Jetbeam but not overly cool either. Whatever it is, I like the tint. Seems very pure white. I will have to study it better when I get off work and it gets dark. Only thing I don't like so far is having to twist it just the right amount to get a perfect beam profile every time i turn it on.

All in all I think it will turn out to be a good product for Maglite. Only around $30 for an American made light that is plenty bright. Also I love the interface. So easy to just point it down to get low power, instead of having to twist off/on/off etc.


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## betweenrides (Feb 15, 2012)

wheel said:


> Hope you will provide us with some information. I am particularly interested in how long on the high mode before it starts to dim down. thanks



Sorry, meetings all afternoon. Thanks to Scenic for posting pics, I won't be able to do much before the weekend. Couple of quick impressions, tho: Flawless finish, little bit of dust on the inside of the reflector. Bright! - weird to see that much coming out of a maglite. Agree with Scenic that head turning is more of a fine tune of the beam, only one real position is effective. Beam color is clear white, which I prefer. Light is 3/4" longer than the old Mini Mag Incan version, Head is longer by 3/8", Bezel is also slightly longer, Tailcap appears identical. UI for Low setting is quite effective: Twist head to turn on the light, point it straight down, twist to turn off then immediately twist back on - voila! 25% as bright. I'm liking it, will try it outside tonight.


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## kts (Feb 15, 2012)

Does it have a glass lens?


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## betweenrides (Feb 15, 2012)

No, still plastic.


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## tyrantrave (Feb 15, 2012)

Thank you for the pics and beamshots!


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## ff4life (Feb 15, 2012)

Is this light fully regulated ...(does it drop to 70% or 50% after 12 minutes) or is it semi-regulated?


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## Scenic (Feb 15, 2012)

Here are a couple beamshots. Sorry about the quality, these were taken with my iPhone. All lights are much brighter than the pictures suggest. Here is the mag pro+ compared to my Jetbeam bc20(305 lumen) and Thrunite TN11 (830 lumen). This is a bush about 6 yards in front of me.


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## Crushmaster (Feb 15, 2012)

Nice.  Thanks, Scenic! Appreciate it.
God bless,
Joel ><>.


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## Animalmother (Feb 16, 2012)

Is the light regulated???
For how long does the regulation hold?
Thanks for any input CPF prowlers!


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## betweenrides (Feb 16, 2012)

Hitthespot said:


> I can't detect any. However, I have never been particularly sensitive to PWM. I have never detected any PWM on lights that I've owned, even known offenders. So don't use me as a final judge.



PWM doesn't bother me either, but I just checked with my iPhone and I'm getting the PWM bar feedback on low...


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## RedForest UK (Feb 16, 2012)

How thin and close together are the bars? That should give an idea of frequency. Though it would probably depend on exposure time on the camera too.


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## ff4life (Feb 17, 2012)

Deleted


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## ff4life (Feb 17, 2012)

and one thing to add.... Some of you were wondering about PWM. On high mode there is none that i can detect on running shower water. But on low i can see some PWM on the water. But it doesn't bother me at all and i dont notice it it normal use.


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## The Shadow (Feb 18, 2012)

ff4life said:


> and one thing to add.... Some of you were wondering about PWM. On high mode there is none that i can detect on running shower water. But on low i can see some PWM on the water. But it doesn't bother me at all and i dont notice it it normal use.



Thanks for the great write-up. You answered a lot of my questions. Just to clarify, you didn't notice any PWM on high, but did you check it again after the 12 minute drop-off? I assume there has to be something cutting back the power - just don't know how noticeable it is. Thanks.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Feb 18, 2012)

Could someone provide a link to the source stating there is a drop off after 12 minutes on high?


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## zdeuce (Feb 18, 2012)

Thanks for the beam shots scenic, can you give us an update as to your overall opinion for the light now that you've had it a couple days.


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## betweenrides (Feb 18, 2012)

RedForest UK said:


> How thin and close together are the bars? That should give an idea of frequency. Though it would probably depend on exposure time on the camera too.



Hi, RedForest: 

Here's pics that will hopefully answer your questions. On High, very faint, widely separated bars show up on the camera viewer (iPhone), but they are barely detectible in the photo:





Here's on Low - much easier to see:





PWM does not bother me, so I don't even notice it in use. This is quite a nice thrower by the way - hotspot is great outside and I can light up any corner of my yard and most of the neighbors on either side - what more can you expect out of a 2xAA light? Inside, the beam is a little ringy.

While I'm at it, here's some more random pics of the light:


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## shelm (Feb 18, 2012)

very nice flashlight. 
you're one of the first to have bought it, congrats!
and you paid the price for it 
i am sure that one day it will be on sale on some dubious inet site


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## betweenrides (Feb 18, 2012)

shelm said:


> very nice flashlight.
> you're one of the first to have bought it, congrats!
> and you paid the price for it
> i am sure that one day it will be on sale on some dubious inet site



I definitely paid the price, LOL. I could have bought that S-Mini I've been wanting for the same price, but I'm very happy with my purchase. Always loved the classic form factor of Maglite, now it's actually a good performer. I bet you dollars to doughnuts it will be on sale at DIY stores for $14.99 - $19.99 by Christmas.


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## wadamt16 (Feb 18, 2012)

So that 2 AA Mini Maglite Pro+ has 5 lumens more than the new MagCharger but the MagCharger is 434m throw and the Pro+ is 150m. I don't understand what cd is? like Pro+ is 5600cd and MagCharger is 47167cd. Which will be brighter for in room and outside? Is Pro+'s lens replaceable?


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## betweenrides (Feb 18, 2012)

wadamt16 said:


> So that 2 AA Mini Maglite Pro+ has 5 lumens more than the new MagCharger but the MagCharger is 434m throw and the Pro+ is 150m. I don't understand what cd is? like Pro+ is 5600cd and MagCharger is 47167cd. Which will be brighter for in room and outside? Is Pro+'s lens replaceable?



Lumens does not a thrower make...

Mag Charger has that big old 2-5/16" head, Mini Maglite Pro+ head is only 1". I'm sure the Mag Charger can significantly out throw any Mini out there.


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## wadamt16 (Feb 18, 2012)

betweenrides said:


> Lumens does not a thrower make...



Yeah I know, that wasn't what I asked for...


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## wadamt16 (Feb 18, 2012)

double post


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## Ki113rMi113r (Feb 18, 2012)

Can you dissemble the head, like incondesent ones can? Like can take out the lens and the reflector?


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## brted (Feb 18, 2012)

wadamt16 said:


> So that 2 AA Mini Maglite Pro+ has 5 lumens more than the new MagCharger but the MagCharger is 434m throw and the Pro+ is 150m. I don't understand what cd is? like Pro+ is 5600cd and MagCharger is 47167cd. Which will be brighter for in room and outside? Is Pro+'s lens replaceable?



Candela is another way to measure throw. More at the link below. Lumen is total output. Indoors, a floody light like the MM Pro will light up the whole room. Outdoors, the charger will put more light on distant objects, so it will probably seem brighter.

http://flashlightwiki.com/ANSI-NEMA_FL-1

Thanks for the info on this light guys. I'm so glad to see Mag come out with a XP-G light with simple modes like this. Once they hit the local stores I don't think I'll be able to hold off buying one.


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## ff4life (Feb 18, 2012)

The Shadow said:


> Thanks for the great write-up. You answered a lot of my questions. Just to clarify, you didn't notice any PWM on high, but did you check it again after the 12 minute drop-off? I assume there has to be something cutting back the power - just don't know how noticeable it is. Thanks.



I tested it and I let it run for 15 min just to be sure. I checked it on the shower and I honestly couldn't really notice anything with the water. Just to make sure it wasn't me I then quickly switched to LOW, and I could then notice some PWM on the water but it is very faint. If it wasn't pointed at water I would have 0 clue it had any PWM. But even when pointed at the water it isn't that noticible in my opinion. Some of you may be more suseptible to it.




Ki113rMi113r said:


> Can you dissemble the head, like incondesent ones can? Like can take out the lens and the reflector?



Yes, you can dissemble the head just like the incandescent ones.


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## download (Feb 18, 2012)

If possible, please dissemble the head and take a shot to the led side without battery.
I really want to see how they hold the led module.
Is it same way as normal 2AA miniMag led that use the black plastic retainer?
:thanks:


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## carl (Feb 20, 2012)

Does the light have to be pointed straight down or can it be pointed down at a comfortable angle? If it needs to be pointed straight down to 6 o clock, it could be awkward to do in a hurry so just wondering. thanks


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## ff4life (Feb 20, 2012)

carl....

It has to be pointed down within I'd say about 15 degrees from straight down. So it is pretty much straight down... However, it really isn't as awkward as it seems. Remember there is no tailcap switch. With a tailcap switch I can see it being awkward. But with the twist head on the minimag i just hold the flashlight straight down with my right hand, and rotate on with my left. It becomes natural very quickly and I find it to be a very easy system to operate. 

If my girlfriend finds it simple.... It must be extremely simple lmao :thumbsup:


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## carl (Feb 21, 2012)

ff4Life,

thanks. Now i know what to expect.


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## Scenic (Feb 21, 2012)

zdeuce said:


> Thanks for the beam shots scenic, can you give us an update as to your overall opinion for the light now that you've had it a couple days.



It's a great all around flashlight. No surprises, just that solid Maglite build quality and simple design. Really bright for a Maglite and cheap easily available batteries. It would be great to give kids for boy scout camping, etc. I am going to use it as my go-to household flashlight that I am not afraid to beat up a little. Might buy a second one to keep in the car once colors come out.


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## eh4 (Feb 21, 2012)

Too bad this is a flashlight forum and not a jury or something, geez you guys could solve both the Kennedy and the OJ case in a week or so if there were lumens involved.


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## Burgess (Feb 21, 2012)

Here's a little tidbit . . . .


Anybody else wish this thing had LOWER output, and LONGER runtime ? ? ?


Myself, i would prefer perhaps 10 to 15 Lumens.
(on Low setting)


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## Robin24k (Feb 22, 2012)

Preliminary results...graph will be updated as tests are completed.















Note about PWM: I'm using the new Extech SDL400 light meter for these tests, and it averages values in a different way than the HD450. As such, PWM won't be visible on the runtime graph.


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## LilKevin715 (Feb 22, 2012)

Thanks for the preliminary graphs Robin. Does the head or battery tube get warm/hot over time? I was hoping that they would have redesigned the pill for better heatsinking. It appears (according to your preliminary graph) that there is a considerable amount of thermal sag running the emitter at around 1amp.


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## Robin24k (Feb 22, 2012)

I was actually away during the runtime test, so I don't know about heat. There is no thermal sag for sure though, based on the shape of the curve, it's programmed into the pill and irrelevant of battery chemistry, which makes it quite well regulated.


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## StudFreeman (Feb 22, 2012)

It's good to see alkaline batts will hang with lithium until the end of the the ramp-down at ~1:15. I like this kind of duty cycle--regulated output, preceding linear output decay ramping, followed by flat output--because it does its job without short changing the user of much useable light. Testing to see how long regular alkaline AAs can provide a given amount of current, then figuring out how much that can be bumped up by, then insuring output doesn't just limp along at 11% for the final hour probably required a battery (hehe) of tests. As an engineering problem, finding that balance must have been like nailing Jell-O to a tree in July. 


Looking forward to the NiMH/duty cycle runtime test data. Thanks again Robin.


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## brted (Feb 22, 2012)

This profile seems designed to game the FL1 standards. Get something bright for the first couple of minutes and then taper off to maximize runtime. I think it should still be a good light and I usually use a light only in short bursts anyway, but I don't see any reason for any light to be regulated to less than 50% of its initial brightness. That's what Medium is for.


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## StudFreeman (Feb 22, 2012)

brted said:


> This profile seems designed to game the FL1 standards. Get something bright for the first couple of minutes and then taper off to maximize runtime. I think it should still be a good light and I usually use a light only in short bursts anyway, but I don't see any reason for any light to be regulated to less than 50% of its initial brightness. That's what Medium is for.



Even at <100% current draw, alkaline cells impose tight limits on power drawn versus regulated output. Consider Mag's consumer base: 7/10 people who buy this light will use regular coppertops. If they saw that it only had 1 hour runtime [ANSI], they'd probably go with the cheap 3xAAA Coleman/Rayovac light on the rack next to the Pro. I definitely agree with you about gaming ANSI runtime standards, though I think they designed it that way out of necessity.



Not exaggerating about the 1 hour runtime of certain 2xAA lights on alkaline cells, by the way! Scroll down a little more than halfway: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-(XP-G-R5)-Review-RUNTIMES-BEAMSHOTS-and-more!

EDIT: If the MM Pro is like other recent lights from Mag it should return to 100% brightness if you turn it off and on (duty cycle timer).


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## Robin24k (Feb 22, 2012)

One thing to note...after the Pro's runtime test, all batteries were still capable of at least 75% brightness (NiMH and L91 were close to 100%).

Pro tests have been completed, not sure what is going on with the NiMH. Will verify with the Pro+ and re-run if necessary.

EDIT: To answer the question about heatsinking, yes...the entire light gets very warm.


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## Truejdm (Feb 23, 2012)

Anybody know of any video yet?


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## The Shadow (Feb 23, 2012)

Robin24k said:


> Preliminary results...graph will be updated as tests are completed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thank you Robin24k! Based on these preliminary results, I don't see the 12 minute full-power runtime that we all thought this would have (like the XL200). Seems like it starts dropping immediately. Do you agree?


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## Robin24k (Feb 23, 2012)

It reaches a peak at 1min, and then reaches 80% at 5min, then 70% at 7min. At 10min, it begins the linear decrease.


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## ff4life (Feb 23, 2012)

Robin24k....

Any chance of doing a runtime test on low with NI-MH batts?


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## Robin24k (Feb 23, 2012)

27 hours...sure, but not at the moment. I need to work on getting the review published first, then I'll run a test on low in about a week or so. Need to catch up since I'm behind the curve with this review...


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## ff4life (Feb 23, 2012)

Robin24k said:


> 27 hours...sure, but not at the moment. I need to work on getting the review published first, then I'll run a test on low in about a week or so. Need to catch up since I'm behind the curve with this review...



Thanks  No rush at all.. just curious to see if it will hold a constant power or if it will do a duty cycle on low..... 

Btw, is this lights low supposed to be 25%... because if so that means that it would have about 61 lumens.. .However it seems dim in comparison to my 48 lumen Streamlight Stylus Pro


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## Robin24k (Feb 23, 2012)

Lux values confirms that the low mode is indeed ~25% of high, so it should be 61 lumens.

Most likely, you're comparing perceived brightness, not total output. The Pro/Pro+ has a comparably low peak beam intensity, which would not appear to be as "bright" as a light with high peak beam intensity.

You may find this article helpful: http://www.led-resource.com/2011/11/ansi-fl1-standard/


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## D_for_David (Feb 23, 2012)

hi just wanted to put my .02 in. bought this light for my dad cause it was only $30 or so...when i first turned it on had a nice cool tint to it and was just as bright as my surefire 6px. thought it was pretty cool for a budget light


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## Robin24k (Feb 24, 2012)

Just an update, all tests have been completed. Couple things to note...

Both lights are well regulated and output is consistent regardless of battery chemistry.
PWM is used for step-down regulation (timer-based) and low mode.
At the end of the FL1 Standard runtime test, all batteries still had a considerable amount of charge remaining. During a follow-up 5-minute runtime test...
Alkaline batteries reached a peak of ~70%
NiMH batteries reached a peak of over 90%
Lithium batteries reached a peak of over 90%

Considerable heat was produced during the duty cycle runtime test.
Unfortunately, it was too late to create graphs for a follow-up runtime test because the tests for the Pro were run for over 6 hours each, draining the batteries too much for a test to be meaningful. Peak measurements for were taken with the Pro+.


----------



## LEDninja (Feb 24, 2012)

From led-replacement:
Warning
The TerraLUX TCS-1
Tail cap switch is 
made for your filament 
2AA Mini-Maglite®
The spring is too short 
for the new 2 and 3aa
Mini-MagLED flashligh

Can someone please check if the switch works with the Pro/Pro+.
(I have the Pro coming, you guys cleaned Zbattery out of the Pro+)


----------



## shadeone (Feb 24, 2012)

so the runtime graphs were done with the light turned on for the full time the graph indicates? whats all this about the whole 12 minute drop off thing? 

If i have this as just a general house- use light and only turn it on for a few minutes each time i use it, every time i turn it on, will it go come on at full 100% power? Most of my general house duties dont involve using this light for more than about 5 minutes at a time. it would be nice if it came on at 100% every time


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## Robin24k (Feb 24, 2012)

LEDninja, the warning about the TCS-1 only applies to the original Mini Maglite LED, the one with the Luxeon III and a tailcap without a lanyard hole. It will work fine with the Pro/Pro+, but keep in mind that it's a reverse clicky.

shadeone, yes. The 12 minute drop-off is a power-save feature built into the XL200 and ML-series lights.


----------



## Truejdm (Feb 24, 2012)

What will have better flood and throw. The xl200 or pro +? What would you guys go with?


----------



## Robin24k (Feb 24, 2012)

Pro/Pro+ definately has more flood. It's hard to make a comparison between the two becuase they're really not comparable, the XL200 is smaller and has a lot of functions, whereas the Pro/Pro+ are designed for simplicity.


----------



## Truejdm (Feb 24, 2012)

So for more of a household light back yard light the pro/+ would be the way to go in your opinion?


----------



## Hondo (Feb 24, 2012)

Very interesting. The XL-200 regulation looks like an HDS light stepping down due to low battery or heat, only forced by a timer instead. This one looks much more like what was done on the Icon Rogue lights, which are the only other examples of this kind of declining regulation I am aware of:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...A-Review-RUNTIMES-ANALYSIS-BEAMSHOTS-and-more!


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## Scenic (Feb 24, 2012)

Truejdm said:


> So for more of a household light back yard light the pro/+ would be the way to go in your opinion?



The PRO+ is great for a household light. Looks like it can withstand a lot of abuse and is plenty bright. Would also be good for camping etc. Already used mine outside in a thunderstorm, shoveling wet, muddy leaves to clear out a storm drain in my yard. I may get a few more, one to keep in the basement/glove box, etc. when the other colors come out. It is priced really well for such a nice light in my opinion.

Anyone know if these use the same basic body parts/lens/reflector as the regular LED AA Maglites?


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## Truejdm (Feb 24, 2012)

Scenic said:


> The PRO+ is great for a household light. Looks like it can withstand a lot of abuse and is plenty bright. Would also be good for camping etc. Already used mine outside in a thunderstorm, shoveling wet, muddy leaves to clear out a storm drain in my yard. I may get a few more, one to keep in the basement/glove box, etc. when the other colors come out. It is priced really well for such a nice light in my opinion.
> 
> Anyone know if these use the same basic body parts/lens/reflector as the regular LED AA Maglites?




Beautiful. That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!


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## Truejdm (Feb 24, 2012)

Scenic said:


> The PRO+ is great for a household light. Looks like it can withstand a lot of abuse and is plenty bright. Would also be good for camping etc. Already used mine outside in a thunderstorm, shoveling wet, muddy leaves to clear out a storm drain in my yard. I may get a few more, one to keep in the basement/glove box, etc. when the other colors come out. It is priced really well for such a nice light in my opinion.
> 
> Anyone know if these use the same basic body parts/lens/reflector as the regular LED AA Maglites?




Beautiful. That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!


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## Robin24k (Feb 24, 2012)

Scenic said:


> Anyone know if these use the same basic body parts/lens/reflector as the regular LED AA Maglites?


Yup, it's all the same.


----------



## jabe1 (Feb 24, 2012)

Has anyone tried one of these with an aftermarket clicky tailcap yet?


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## betweenrides (Feb 25, 2012)

jabe1 said:


> Has anyone tried one of these with an aftermarket clicky tailcap yet?



I have tried it with two different ones:

The one included with the Nite Ize LED Upgrade Combo II (Simple on/off click, heavy knurling): Works fine in both High and Low modes. Don't particularly like the switch however because the button protrudes and it provides no tactile feel for on off (ie, doesn't really 'click'). But it works. I took the switch from a 3xAA Modified Mag someone made for me.

Nite Ize IQ Switch: Will not work on the new Pro+, but curiously will work on the 3xAA Modified Mag referred to above, but will not turn fully off; goes into a weird .1 lumen barely on mode with periodic flashes. All 5 modes work on that light but I have to take off the cap to fully turn it off.

A few notes on tail caps:
1. The cap on the new Pro+ has annodized threads, it allows tailcap lockout with as little as 1/4 turn. 
2. The threads on the new cap are just slightly longer and seem to thread in better than old Mini Mag versions I have.
3. The threads on both Nite Ize switches referred to above are shorter than the Mag stock switch and just barely catch the female threads inside the tube. They do not thread in the cold. I tried switching all caps in my car at lunch after the 3 lights had sat in the cold for a couple hours (mid 20's F). The cold was enough to make all the parts just enough off so the Nite Ize switches couldn't grab a thread. Something to keep in mind if you plan on using this around the yard in the winter with a modified switch.

I would be interested if anyone else has experience with other better quality aftermarket switches that will work. I would like a recessed switch that works reliably to save on wear and tear on the head unit, since it's function as a zoomie is really limited.


----------



## Robin24k (Feb 25, 2012)

Anybody have problems with the Pro/Pro+ tail cap spring scratching the batteries? It seems like the sharp edge of the end sticks out a bit, which catches on the battery when it's unscrewed. It's a quick fix though...just use pliers to bend it inwards.


----------



## Retinator (Feb 25, 2012)

I just have the reg Mini with the Cree and the tailcap with the lanyard hole (a la old incan mini's) and mine scratches the battery as well.

With Surefires, I understand that's intentional to maintain good contact, but is that the case here? With rechargeables, it can be a problem, not so much with primaries.


----------



## Nake (Feb 25, 2012)

Take a few swipes at the spring with file.


----------



## tacticaltony (Feb 29, 2012)

After reading this thread all my questions were answered before I asked them. This forum and all the members are pretty awesome and knowledgable. Too bad there's only 1 YouTube video from bright guy and no good beamshots. Would anybody prefer the pro instead of the pro plus? Is there any advantage you get from the pro as opposed to the pro plus? Besides brightness? Thanks a lot...the YouTube post says the pro+ will run for 2.2 or 2.5 hours at 100% power, is that not tru? Because on the graphs it dropped immediately


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## my#1hobby (Feb 29, 2012)

tacticaltony said:


> After reading this thread all my questions were answered before I asked them. This forum and all the members are pretty awesome and knowledgable. Too bad there's only 1 YouTube video from bright guy and no good beamshots. Would anybody prefer the pro instead of the pro plus? Is there any advantage you get from the pro as opposed to the pro plus? Besides brightness? Thanks a lot...the YouTube post says the pro+ will run for 2.2 or 2.5 hours at 100% power, is that not tru? Because on the graphs it dropped immediately


The Pro+ has a low mode and the Pro does not.


----------



## tacticaltony (Feb 29, 2012)

Cool, it's pretty cool that at 2:am I'm not the only lumen on candle mode (bad flashlight humore)


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## Scenic (Feb 29, 2012)

Does anyone have the ML100 and pro+ to compare? If so, which one do you like better? and does the larger reflector make up for the lower lumens on the ML100? I am tempted to pick up an ml100 as well.


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## Robin24k (Feb 29, 2012)

Here's the link to my review, which has beamshots:

http://www.led-resource.com/2012/02/mini-maglite-pro-and-proplus-led-flashlight-review/

ML100 has a lot more throw than the Pro/Pro+ and the beam is wider, but the spill is less bright. As for Pro vs. Pro+, the advantage of the Pro is price and runtime.


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## The Shadow (Feb 29, 2012)

Robin24k said:


> Here's the link to my review, which has beamshots:



Nice review, but I feel like I read it already. One of the advantages of being on this forum... :rock: 



Thanks for all the good info!


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## Robin24k (Feb 29, 2012)

That's true...one thing that you haven't read is the extended runtime test. It's still going on right now, but preliminary results show that the Pro+ can go for two full-length 2h 30min runtimes with Ultimate Lithiums. :thumbsup:


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## Truejdm (Feb 29, 2012)

Hopefully sooner then later there will be a good video with beam shots.


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## The Shadow (Feb 29, 2012)

Robin24k said:


> That's true...one thing that you haven't read is the extended runtime test. It's still going on right now, but preliminary results show that the Pro+ can go for two full-length 2h 30min runtimes with Ultimate Lithiums. :thumbsup:



Wow - that's different. So when the light dims to 10% just reboot it back to full brightness?

I generally like lights regulated to hold a constant output for as long as possible, then drop to a moonlight mode. The declining output as the batteries drain reminds me of the old incans with alkalines. But this light has me thinking - if I don't notice the drop off until the end, then have a reserve to get back full power... interesting...


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## my#1hobby (Feb 29, 2012)

tacticaltony said:


> Cool, it's pretty cool that at 2:am I'm not the only lumen on candle mode (bad flashlight humore)


LOL yeah I'm usually on at night with the rest of the night owls. I couldn't get on after that last post because CPF quit working again for me. :tired:


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## brted (Feb 29, 2012)

Did you get one of the regular versions too? Does it have the same alkaline-emulating regulation?


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## Robin24k (Feb 29, 2012)

The Shadow said:


> But this light has me thinking - if I don't notice the drop off until the end, then have a reserve to get back full power... interesting...


I don't think that's quite what the engineers at Maglite were thinking since they design for alkaline batteries (which don't have much of a reserve after the ANSI runtime), but it's definately the case with NiMH or lithium.



brted said:


> Did you get one of the regular versions too? Does it have the same alkaline-emulating regulation?


Yes, that test is still in progress at the moment, so I have not updated or posted the graphs yet. I expect tests to be completed by Friday.


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## alpg88 (Feb 29, 2012)

has anyone compared it to xl200? 
is that dust in op's light inside the lens??? i bought 2 xl200, both had dust on the reflector, really pisses me off to the point not ever buying mags again, (unless as a host for mods), damn


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## Robin24k (Feb 29, 2012)

It's brighter than the XL200, but not significantly (non-linear perception). Beam pattern is very similar, although the Pro/Pro+ has a useful flood mode.

You can remove the window in the Mini Maglite series and replace it with glass, so dust shouldn't be an issue.


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## alpg88 (Feb 29, 2012)

not in xl series you cant, not as easy at least, i tried on one, ruined reflector, afaik you can't buy them separately.
dx\kd lights have less dust.


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## Robin24k (Feb 29, 2012)

I was referring to the Mini Maglite series, not the XL-series.

BTW, contact Maglite customer service and see if they can send you a replacement reflector.


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## alpg88 (Feb 29, 2012)

if it was mini mag i wouldn't worry about dust, i will try maglite cc, thanks, idk why i never thought about it. lol

btw mini mag led reflectors are available at z battery, for around $3 iirc, have to get those too, my minimag has like blue film on half of the reflector, been there since i bough it.


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## Scenic (Mar 1, 2012)

I noticed a piece of dust on my new pro+ reflector, so in my typical OCD fashion, I took off the head and stupidly blew into the reflector through the back trying to loosen it, which probably put even more dust into the reflector. Then i realized you would have to get a lot of dust on the reflector to notice any difference in the beam quality. I could see eventually accumulating a fair amount of dust over decades of constant use, removing head for use in candle mode every day. And if that ever did happen, a new reflector is only about $2.


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## chmsam (Mar 1, 2012)

Continuing off topic but if the dust bothers you in an XL series light, contact Maglite about service.

And as for the Mini-mag line (and just about any other flashlight) be extremely careful with reflectors. They are damaged incredibly easily. There are lots of threads about cleaning reflectors and most boil down to this -- using a rubber bulb "puffer" like one used for camera lens cleaning and just about nothing else. Any other sort of contact with a reflector in generally not recommended.


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## Megacam (Mar 1, 2012)

Great review! I'll be getting a colored one as soon as they are out! I would like to point out that you can indeed have a lanyard on the older led mini-mag model and still fit it in the included case. I have a thin para-cord lanyard (no key-ring at all) on mine and it fits no problem, i just pull the lanyard up out of the top of the case and the end of it rests right beside the top of the maglite.


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## Robin24k (Mar 1, 2012)

That's true, thanks for the correction. I have updated the wording to not be as strong. 

One bit of information that I had left out is that the Pro will be available on retail shelves soon, but the Pro+ is expected to remain online-only due to the higher price. Colors will be available, but no word on when...


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## Robin24k (Mar 2, 2012)

Extended tests complete...


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## The Shadow (Mar 2, 2012)

I wonder why they didn't go for the "12 minutes of full power" like the XL lights? These seem to drop to about 60% in the first 7 or 8 minutes. Is that noticeable to the eye?

When the light levels off to a constant brightness, it looks like it's about 1/3 of full power. So this 245 lumen lights runs about 80 lumens for a significant amount of time. Again, do you notice it to a point where you decide to power cycle it to full brightness?


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## Robin24k (Mar 2, 2012)

I think it has to do with power and heat, it would get quite warm if it held 245 lumens for 12 minutes. Unless you are specifically comparing, it's not as noticeable as the numbers suggest due to non-linear perception of brightness. Even if you are comparing between a Pro at 60% and a Pro+ at 100%, it only appears to be a little bit less bright.

In practice, I find myself rarely running lights continuously for more than 10 minutes (except when working, but I would usually use a work light like the Streamlight Knucklehead instead of a flashlight). I would expect that this would the case for most users, or for extended use, the first 10-15 minutes is more critical.


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## StudFreeman (Mar 8, 2012)

Has anyone tried swapping the Pro pill with the one in a Rebel/XP-E 2D Maglite?


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## Lightwriter (Mar 12, 2012)

betweenrides said:


> Nite Ize IQ Switch: Will not work on the new Pro+, but curiously will work on the 3xAA Modified Mag referred to above, but will not turn fully off; goes into a weird .1 lumen barely on mode with periodic flashes. All 5 modes work on that light but I have to take off the cap to fully turn it off.



You can turn it off by rotating the head, though it's annoying since turning off the light should be available through the tailswitch.


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## AnAppleSnail (Mar 12, 2012)

The Shadow said:


> When the light levels off to a constant brightness, it looks like it's about 1/3 of full power. So this 245 lumen lights runs about 80 lumens for a significant amount of time. Again, do you notice it to a point where you decide to power cycle it to full brightness?



I wouldn't while working. A camera would notice, and turning on one, waiting a few minutes, and then starting another would show it for a little while. 40% output difference can be noticed by most people, but it's difficult. -70% will be "One is brighter, but not by much."



StudFreeman said:


> Has anyone tried swapping the Pro pill with the one in a Rebel/XP-E 2D Maglite?


I haven't figured out how to extract mine.


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## LEDninja (Mar 13, 2012)

I can not get 3rd party switches to work on my Pro.
Tried 3.
Broke my Kroll trying.
The Elektrolumens one (I suspect an OEM version of the Nite-Ize).
Terralux TCS-1.

Took a close look at my MiniMags.
The old incandescent uses the threads as the contact point between the switch and body.
_Don't have a 1st gen LED. Read the threads are anodized and the point is a clear band just past the threads._.
My Pro the contact point is the end of the tube just like AA Fenix or Quarks. All my 3rd party Mag switches still have the threads as the contact point. My Fenix or Quark switches have female threads, the minimags need the switches to have male threads.

Back to turning the head. Not too bad as the optimum beam is only 1/16th turn from ON in my Pro.


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## Alpnlight (Mar 17, 2012)

Mine works with the Terralux TCS-1 (tested one P+ with two tail caps). There is a noticeable lag time that my old MiniMag with Terralux Led does not suffer but I can live with it.

First impression is this light is okay for the price. There is no real focus like old Mags. The high beam/low beam feature sounds great on paper but is a weak implementation since few will remember how it works if they don't use the light frequently. For about the same price as the P+ including the TCS-1 upgrade, you can get a better light from several brands. But it is a decent light that's made in the US and way better than 90% of what most casual users own.

FYI the TCS-1 is discontinued and supplies are running short.


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## Robin24k (Mar 17, 2012)

Lag time with the Pro+ is due to the accelerometer sensing the light's orientation, so unfortunately, there's no way around it unless they speed up the circuitry with more expensive components.

Without an accelerometer-switched low mode, the Mini Maglite LED and Pro are unaffected.


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## jdhermit (Mar 29, 2012)

Sorry to resurrect couple week old thread...but anyone know where to find a Pro+ currently?
Looks (to me) like they're out of stock everywhere...
Would get the Pro, but really want a low level too...

Thanks,
JD


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## kj2 (Mar 29, 2012)

jdhermit said:


> Sorry to resurrect couple week old thread...but anyone know where to find a Pro+ currently?
> Looks (to me) like they're out of stock everywhere...
> Would get the Pro, but really want a low level too...
> 
> ...


Have no idea. Haven't see them yet here in stores, or on eBay. Very hard to find for people in Europe.
In USA should be more easy to find I say..


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## arnstein (Mar 29, 2012)

jdhermit said:


> ...anyone know where to find a Pro+ currently?JD


I suggest that you try google shopping search. budsgunshop.com claims to have the black one in stock. B&H Photo claims to get them in 3 to 7 days. And so forth.

I got mine from B&H last week. They ruffled my feathers a bit. After I completed my order, I received an email stating that the flashlight was out of stock. I sent them an email requesting cancellation. They replied that they had shipped already.

Anyway, the flashlight arrived safe and sound so I can't complain. Much.


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## Megacam (Mar 30, 2012)

So, just to clarify...the Terralux TCS-1 is the only clicky switch that will work with the pro plus (high and low modes)? Also Amazon has them, but looks like they might be out of stock. I also noticed that the maglite website is listing all the different colors in there "packaging options". Can't wait till colors are available!


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## tpolley (Apr 2, 2012)

i just bought the regular pro from amazon. i used some rewards points to i only paid $2.01 for it.

i didn't read thru all the threads. why is the pro rated for 220 lumens and the pro plus is rated for 245 lumens? i thought they were the same thing only the plus has an electronic switch?


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## LEDninja (Apr 2, 2012)

I got my TCS-1 at led-replacement. My Pro at zbattery.
They have sold out at least 2 lots of Pro+. Too many people reading this thread.

Scrubbed the threads of my light with some sandpaper. One TCS-1 works now. Have to do some serious cleaning.

-----

The accessories kit has a red, blue and clear lens.
Red to preserve night vision.
Blue to follow blood trail.
What is the clear one for?


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## Madcow07 (Apr 3, 2012)

LEDninja said:


> The accessories kit has a red, blue and clear lens.
> Red to preserve night vision.
> Blue to follow blood trail.
> What is the clear one for?



The clear lens is a replacement for the one that came with the flashlight.


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## StudFreeman (Apr 3, 2012)

tpolley said:


> why is the pro rated for 220 lumens and the pro plus is rated for 245 lumens? i thought they were the same thing only the plus has an electronic switch?



The difference between 226 lumens (Pro) and 245 (Pro+) is <10% (not much and likely imperceptible). The Pro and Pro+ have different driver circuitry; Mag probably engineered the Pro+ to drive emitters a little harder because it has a Low mode which is treated as a power saving mode (and the longer runtime specs looks good to consumers). That small difference in output could be attributed to the differing components between the two drivers. Different output bins for the emitters in the Pro line are unlikely the cause because several samples of a light are submitted for ANSI testing.


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## StudFreeman (Apr 21, 2012)

If the Pro has a retaining ring like the multi-mode Rebel and XP-E Mini Maglite, the pill is really easy to remove (easy upgrade for a Mag 2D LED). I employed a Nike spike wrench as its hollow face surrounds the emitter without touching it. The pill slips out of the ring with little effort, then pops back into place when followed by some AAs. Hopefully that info helps someone out.


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## Zuriel (Aug 4, 2012)

I've recently bought a Mini Maglite PRO+ LED from Amazon for about $56 (shipping fee inc.) When it arrived, I've tried it immediately and was stunned by its High power mode. Really, really bright! I've encountered something though. I've noticed that when the batteries are somewhat losing its charge (dunno the term, sorry) the PRO+ "flashes/blinks". I've thought this is a malfunction until I've tried changing the batteries from the Duracell (used intensively at work) to Energizer Ultimate Lithium. The blinking stopped. I tried changing the batteries again from Ultimate Lithium to my ancient GP 2700mAh MiMH battery. The blinking was faster than the Duracell. The used Duracell blinks for about every 1.5 secs. while the GP blinks for about .5secs. That's when I had the conclusion that it must be some kind of "warning" to let you know that the battery is losing its charge. Has anyone encountered this?


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## lumen aeternum (Sep 30, 2012)

For comparison, what are the lumens of the earlier generation LED and the "4 function" version (has an R in the serial number)?


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## Robin24k (Sep 30, 2012)

Original "3W LED" versions were not subjected to ANSI tests, so I don't think there are any specs for those (one estimate says 50 lumens). For lights with 2R or TR, they are either 69 lumens or 77 lumens (current model with XP-E). 

Either way, the Mini Maglite Pro/Pro+ is much brighter than both.


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## lumen aeternum (Sep 30, 2012)

I see that for an extra buck, you can get it in a gift box. So you can store the loaded flashlight with 2 (maybe 4) spare batteries. Perfect for car glove box; does it run on Lithiums (for cold weather)?


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## Robin24k (Sep 30, 2012)

Yes, Energizer Advanced or Ultimate Lithiums work fine in these lights (you can see runtime graphs for them in my review).


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## lumen aeternum (Sep 30, 2012)

Me again... I see that this has a tailcap lockout. I always tape the tailcap because I have lost it -- it unscrews in my Ripoffs EMT pouch, which has an open bottom. Never had the head turn on, but the spinning & shifting has unscrewed the tailcap.

Suggestions for closed bottom pouch for light, multi-tool, and misc/scissors pocket w/ the nice belt clip?


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## Robin24k (Sep 30, 2012)

It comes with a closed-bottom pouch...have you tried that one?


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## lumen aeternum (Sep 30, 2012)

Don't want a separate pouch; it rides in the EMT pouch with my other tools.


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## Madcow07 (Oct 1, 2012)

Robin24k said:


> It comes with a closed-bottom pouch...have you tried that one?



I have tried it. I wore it daily and it started stretching in diameter. After 2 or 3 weeks when I would bend over to grab something, the light will fall out. I almost lost it a couple of times when it landed on grass.

I also tried the flap holster. I don't like it due to the velcro closure on the belt loop. And I prefer a closed bottom.


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## Burgess (Oct 1, 2012)

Madcow07 said:


> . . . . . it started stretching in diameter.
> After 2 or 3 weeks when I would bend over to grab something, the light will fall out.
> I almost lost it a couple of times when it landed on grass.




AHA !

I have a Very Effective Solution for this . . . .

Slip a Rubber O-Ring around the woven nylon sheath.

size: much smaller than you would think necessary (or even *possible*) !

I used 'em from my "Faucet Assortment" package of O-rings, from hardware store.

First time, it will "crush" the sheath so much, you will think to yourself:

"This is NUTS ! Won't POSSIBLY work ! ! !"


But, believe me, it certainly DOES work !

Works *great* ! ! !


Been using this method for YEARS and YEARS, on several Mini-Mag sheaths.

(open top, with closed bottom)


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## UserName (Oct 26, 2012)

Madcow07 said:


> I have tried it. I wore it daily and it started stretching in diameter. After 2 or 3 weeks when I would bend over to grab something, the light will fall out. I almost lost it a couple of times when it landed on grass.



Wash it. Once. That's all it takes.

I have one I have worn daily for over 5 years. It is very badly tattered and worn, but has only lost my light once, maybe twice, in that much time.


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## edroedro (Feb 18, 2013)

Just got a couple Mini Maglite Pro lights @ Home Depot for $22.xx.
They were in a cardboard end cap display.

$22 for 226 lumens! Great deal!

They had black, blue, gray colors.

Model: SP2P09H


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## LEDninja (Feb 21, 2013)

re: Holster

I bought one of these at zbattery.
AP2X136J	1	2 and 3 AA LED Mini Mag Nylon Full Flap Belt Holster	$4.75

The barrel sticks out the hole in the bottom so it can take different length AA Mini Maglite.


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## mrmacman2u (Mar 1, 2013)

As a long time fan of Maglite (Since I was given my first Mini at 6 years old) I've been considering the Pro+ as a more powerful worklight to my 1 watt converted original MM (still kicking!)

However, I have two questions nagging at me about this light and I hope someone here would have an answer/opinion;

One, how does this light perform under higher then normal ambient temperatures? (~80-90F) 

I know a 3W LED and it's supporting circuitry can generate a lot of heat since thermal issues are biting one of my projects in the butt, but I sometimes work in very hot areas and I don't want to cook this light.

I couldn't find any operating temp ranges on Mag's website, so I'm just wondering if anyone has experience using them in, say, summer heat? Does it shut down if it gets too hot?

Number two, I know this may sound like a fairly pointless hang-up, but does anyone know the "fall out" voltage of the Pro+, where the light drops under the 10% mark and will it restart if it hits that point? Like an emergency "limp home" mode?

Many thanks and I'm so glad I found this place so I can share my lumen addiction


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## Robin24k (Mar 2, 2013)

I don't know about high temperatures, but 80-90F doesn't seem like it should have any issue.

You can find runtime tests in our review:

http://www.led-resource.com/2012/02/mini-maglite-pro-and-proplus-led-flashlight-review/

Maglite uses timer-based regulation, so even after the ANSI runtime, you will still get a decent amount of output if you turn the light off then back on.


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## mrmacman2u (Mar 6, 2013)

Robin24k said:


> I don't know about high temperatures, but 80-90F doesn't seem like it should have any issue.



I don't figure it would bother too much either, I was just wondering. I had a lot... a LOT of heat dissipation issues while designing and building my custom custom driver/LED combo during extended runtimes that I learned you can't design for that "ragged edge of disaster" because there are situations where the ambient temperature is going to be much higher than 72˚F 

For now, I'm going to assume that the engineers at Mag Instruments took that into account and designed for an operating range, not just a target temperature.




Robin24k said:


> Maglite uses timer-based regulation, so even after the ANSI runtime, you will still get a decent amount of output if you turn the light off then back on.



Not QUITE what I was asking... I figured that I'd get some "recovery" judging from from the extended run time charts, as I said, I read the whole of the thread. What I was asking is what happens when the batteries are past that last gasp? I mean almost totally ka-PUT. It looks like the light just shuts down completely around the 5% mark according to the first run time chart:



Robin24k said:


> Extended tests complete...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I like what I see with the lithium primary's though and at least the Alkaline's are predictable enough


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## Robin24k (Mar 6, 2013)

It will work again if you let the batteries rest, but I wouldn't try using the high mode.


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## lightcycle1 (Apr 23, 2013)

I just bought a Mini Mag Light Pro at Home Depot for about 22$. It's pretty impressive for a mini-mag. I think mine was rated for 226 lumens. The NiteIize expandable holster is a good holster for the Mini-Mag Pro LED, light fits perfectly in it and holds securely. Also, I just discovered the other night that a common .5 liter disposable plastic water bottle cap securely pops right onto the business end of the Mini-Mag Pro and makes a GREAT diffuser. It's interesting with the bottle cap diffuser that when you zoom the head of the Mag Light out to more of a "spot" setting, you can vary the intensity of the light of the coming through the diffuser. The more you zoom it out, the dimmer it gets. Turn the head to flood, and it gets brighter with the diffuser.


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## ps56k (May 7, 2013)

Just received our MiniMag AA Pro+ - marked as 245 lumens...

One thing I have noticed with the latest versions of the MiniMag, 
is that they keep changing the tailend thread attachment.

The original had the entire threaded area bare - for contact between spring and the tube, and had lanyard hole.
Various tail switches would work with this arrangement.

I have the Minimag LED and the threaded area is only a portion deep past the threaded area... 
side pressure wings used for contact - no switches work - also, no lanyard hole.

Lastly - the MiniMag Pro+ has yet another scheme. 
Only a very tiny circumference of the tail switch is bare to make contact with the bare end of the tube.
There again is a lanyard hole, but if the tailcap is just barely unscrewed - not totally tight - contact is lost.
And of course, none of the tail switches work with this newer scheme.


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## tpolley (May 8, 2013)

ps56k said:


> Lastly - the MiniMag Pro+ has yet another scheme.
> Only a very tiny circumference of the tail switch is bare to make contact with the bare end of the tube.
> There again is a lanyard hole, but if the tailcap is just barely unscrewed - not totally tight - contact is lost.
> And of course, none of the tail switches work with this newer scheme.



yup. same problem. my tail cap comes loose. I have to tighten it every time I use the light. I tried a nite-ize clicky tail cap but every time I sat down I'd turn the light on.


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## AnAppleSnail (May 26, 2013)

I carried a Mini Mag Pro at work for a few months - Then it went quite dim and has sat on a shelf. It's a good light and deserves better!

I found that shaking could make a burst of 'normal' output which quickly dropped to dim levels - 1 to 10 lumens. This indicates a bad electrical contact, and debugging indicates bad connection inside the LED module. What questions can I answer for y'all by taking the module apart further?


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## Madcow07 (May 27, 2013)

AnAppleSnail said:


> I carried a Mini Mag Pro at work for a few months - Then it went quite dim and has sat on a shelf. It's a good light and deserves better!
> 
> I found that shaking could make a burst of 'normal' output which quickly dropped to dim levels - 1 to 10 lumens. This indicates a bad electrical contact, and debugging indicates bad connection inside the LED module. What questions can I answer for y'all by taking the module apart further?



Have you checked that the tail cap is screwed on tight? If it's just slightly loose it can cause that problem, or the light to not work at all.


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## AnAppleSnail (May 27, 2013)

Madcow07 said:


> Have you checked that the tail cap is screwed on tight? If it's just slightly loose it can cause that problem, or the light to not work at all.


I checked with everything I've got, including extracting the LED module and jumping 2xAA in. I found that whatever is failing is inside that module. So I took it apart.

I don't have pictures to post, because there is nothing to see. After you take the can out, it's all sealed. Peeling the steel casing off the driver module reveals a solid slug of plastic, with heavy heat spreader and driver apparently sealed inside. The LED board is soldered to two wires coming out of this black box.

I may pick up another mag pro. That's a rare failure, and it came after several international trips and lots of use and abuse.


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## Hondo (Jun 1, 2013)

Use their warranty, it's their biggest claim to fame.


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## GeorgiaDave (Jun 2, 2013)

Hondo said:


> Use their warranty, it's their biggest claim to fame.





warranty, after completely stripping it to bare elements, and after admitted abuse? I'm the same way, though. I would have taken it completely apart just to see what's inside. Now in the case of a Surefire ..... warranty, please.


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## Hondo (Jun 3, 2013)

I guess the "use and abuse" term that AnAppleSnail mentioned sounded to me more like the kind of hard work the light is designed to perform, not some kind of torture test evaluation, since it was part of "carrying the light at work for a few months". I'll leave that judgement to AnAppleSnail.

OK, Mag would probably rather most folks send the non-operational light in right away, rather than investigating themselves to see if they just need to clean a contact inside or whatever, but we are CPF folks, and most of us are capable of more in depth repairs/maintenance than the average customer. If the light is correctly re-assembled, and the root problem remains a dead, sealed module, I see no reason to feel bad about sending to their warranty department, and I am quite positive they would replace it, rather than look for evidence that it has been taken apart beyond what is necessary to change batteries.

And really, no offense, but I don't see why Surefire should be treated differently. I know, you feel you "paid" for a more comprehensive warranty, but they both ratio in the projected costs of warranty replacements. And Mag makes as big a deal out of a lifetime warranty as Surefire. I also feel there is a bit of benefit to all that the company get to see the field failures that are happening, and diagnose the dead units to help improve the next generation.

But yes, I am just the same, I take it apart, and if the problem was my fault, or I trash it in the disassembly process, it is on me. But if I find a defective, unrepairable by me issue, I put it back together and send it back (if it is valuable enough to justify the shipping).


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## AnAppleSnail (Jun 3, 2013)

Hondo said:


> Use their warranty, it's their biggest claim to fame.



I certainly wouldn't abuse their warranty now, although with just the complete LED & Driver bit perhaps I could have. In further disassembly, I did find that the driver module is completely sealed. The only unusual treatment the light was subjected to was excessively high static charge above the 800kV range my meter can detect. I suspect that it's a rare failure mode, and may not have been caused by static. I used the body of the light to ground myself around some of our equipment. When improperly adjusted, said equipment generates 20cm sparks through air. Touching the light to a grounded surface hurts less while I discharge than doing so with my hand.


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## Airbus (Jun 9, 2013)

Is there a noticeable difference between the PRO and PRO+ (High beam mode 226 vs 245 lumens)?
I won't use the low beam mode. 

$20CAD for Pro, $40CAD for Pro+

Is it worth paying extra $20 for the Pro+?

Thank you very much


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## LEDninja (Jun 17, 2013)

If you NEVER use low mode, it is not worth paying double for the Pro+.

I imported my Pro US$25 and Pro+ US$30 from zbattery at the very beginning.

Where did you find the Pro & Pro+ in Canada?


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## El Camino (Jun 17, 2013)

Due to an incorrect pricing/shelving incident, I got a Pro for $17 at Wally-World. They had $16.99 on the tag, but charged the full price. I went back to the flashlight section and realized that the light was in the wrong space, so I decided to return the light. When I explained that they had a whole bunch in the wrong spot, the lady at customer service was very kind and said that it was their fault, so she gave it to me a the lower price. I was quite impressed her customer service.

As for the light, I like it a lot. I'm using the Nite-Ize tail switch (regular one) and it works fine. The light is quite blue, though, and I think the XL200 looks brighter to me, though I imagine the Pro has better run time.


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