# Pimp my Surefire 9P!



## Southpaw1969 (Apr 25, 2010)

Hi everyone!

This is my first post, so be gentle. 

Anyway, a little background. An old GF of mine gave me a Surefire 9P back in '99 as a gift before we both took a tactical firearms class. Before that, I only had maglites, and compared to those, this thing was like having a searchlight in your hand! (notice I didn't say pocket, because unless you're Shaq, a 9P won't fit in your pocket, at least not comfortably enough for EDC)

It is rather bright, but lets face it. It's '90's tech. It takes 3 CR123 cells, and the runtime sucks. Those were some expensive lumens back then when those cells were like 5 bucks each or more. 

I'd like to be able to use it as the bump in the night, wall of light torch, but would prefer a more efficient bulb, and possibly some kind of rechargeable cell setup to get some of those "guilt free lumens" I keep hearing about. :laughing:

So, from experience, what do you guys think the ways to go are? Incan or LED drop in recommendations? Cell configurations? It is setup for 3 CR123 cells as you obviously know, so is it best to go with 3 rcr123's, or 2 of something else, or even one really long cell (if there is such a thing?)

I've been reading posts on this forum for several days before I posted, and am still uncertain. If you could give some rec's or point me to specific threads that would be good too. 

Thanks! :wave:


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## DM51 (Apr 25, 2010)

Welcome to CPF, Southpaw1969 

That sounds like a nice vintage 9P you have. 

From your comments about runtime, you may already be leaning in the direction of LED, which would undoubtedly give you more actual light for a longer time, as LEDs are more efficient at using power than incan bulbs. Incan still has its firm adherents because of the excellent full-spectrum quality of the light. 

Most seasoned CPFers use both LED and Incan, depending on the requirement. I certainly use both myself.

It will depend on how much and how often you use your light. There are good rechargeable solutions for the 9P, and I will leave other members to advise you of those. A 3-cell light like the 9P is particularly good format for this, as you can use 2x Li-Ion rechargeable cells with the same incan bulb as 3x CR123A primaries. 

I think it is worth leaving this thread here in the Incan section for a while so that the incan adherents can advise you of the options; if after this you feel you want to look at LEDs instead, then just post here to say so, and I'll move your thread to the LED Flashlight section.


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## Roger999 (Apr 25, 2010)

If you're going for an incan, how about 2X17500 AW lico cells paired with a lumensfactory ES-9 for a 70minute runtime? If you want an LED, then how about the malkoff m60? the malkoff dropins are expensive though.


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## yellow (Apr 25, 2010)

to bore the body to accomodate 18500 cells will dramatically increase the power You can load into the light.


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## JNewell (Apr 25, 2010)

The 9P and similar SureFire are great lights. If you want an incan option, how about the KT-2 turbohead? I ran my Z3 (very similar light) that way for a long time and was highly satisfied.

In the end, if only because of their greater runtimes, you may wind up adding an LED conversion to your options, but that doesn't mean you can't keep and use an incan option also. They do have different advantages. 

Welcome!


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## computernut (Apr 25, 2010)

As Roger999 said you can use 2xAW17500's and a Lumens Factory bulb that can handle 2x3.7v. I use both the ES-9 and SR-9 in my Surefire G3 but tend to use the SR-9 for the extra brightness. Nice thing is that in a pinch you can always throw in 3xCR123's without changing the bulb.


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## old4570 (Apr 25, 2010)

Full LED , 2x17500 ... 

Just chose a 8.4v drop in ...


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## JCD (Apr 25, 2010)

Pick two:

Brightness
High quality, full spectrum light
Long runtimes


Next, are you interested in switching to rechargeable cells? If so, are you willing to have the battery tube bored out slightly to accommodate larger cells?


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2010)

*Battery configuration* 
2 x 500mm length Rechargeable Lithium cells (17mm OR 18mm diameter)
2 x AA (in a pinch option with low Vf ranged P60 LED module)


* P60 lamp assembly*
1 x incandescent assembly (7.4v tolerant)
1 x ThruNite XP-G R5 3 mode P60 module (2.7~9.0v)
1 x Custom P60 module (so many to choose from in B/S/T)

When you asked us to "pimp" your 9P did you mean aesthetically as well? :devil:


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## mdocod (Apr 25, 2010)

Hello Southpaw1969!

Welcome to CPF!

Many will suggest that you should bore your body so you can use 18500 cells instead of 17500 cells. 

In some cases, boring makes lots of since, in others, it's not eeking out much, and in still further cases, the increased capacity isn't necessary for the intended application. Personally, I suggest buying an aftermarket body that is already bored to fit 18mm cells rather than sending yours off for boring. This will keep your body in original condition so that the flashlight can be reverted back to original form. Pretty hard to put that aluminum back once it's been removed. 

In the case of a a 4xCR123 body, when li-ion conversions are done, I highly recommend boring or an aftermarket body because the difference between the capacity of a 17670 and 18650 is pretty noteworthy, 1.5X or so.

In the case of a 3xCR123 length light like your 9P, a pair of 50mm long li-ion cells is used to substitute. Here we have 17500 vs 18500 cells. In actual testing, a typical 18500 is only packing about 1.25X that of a 17500. The difference here isn't as dramatic. If you want the absolute highest possible energy packed into the 3xCR123 length light in a rechargeable format, 18500s are the way to go. If you are willing to go another cell length longer, a pair of 18650s in a 2x18650 aftermarket body will store more than double the energy of 2x17500s, and about 1.75X as much as a pair of 18500s. A pair of 18650s can drive tons of lamp options. Your P90 stock lamp would run for almost 2 hours in this configuration. 

Personally, the 4xCR123 length lights (2x18650) I have found to be just a little longer than I like, so I compromise and go with 2x18500s for *most* configurations that I keep assembled. If I am heading out to do something with a flashlight that I anticipate will take a long time I'll pack a 1 cell extender and some 18650s in the spares bag.

Oh.... one last thing:

Think of a CR123 as a 2.5V (+/-0.25V) battery. Which is more like what it is when actually loaded by lamps and such. This will help alleviate the next question that is certainly brewing 

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In recent years, LED options have very handily started catching up with the output of even 3xCR123 and 4xCR123 size flashlights. Not to mention, they run longer for the same output, or can give more output for the same runtime.

To give an idea of how dramatic the difference has become:
A pair of 17500s in your 9P will run the P90 (120+ torch lumen average output) for about 1 hour. Maybe 50 minutes. 
That same pair of cells driving a modern R5 buck regulated drop-in module, would produce well in excess of 200 solid torch lumens continuously with no dimming for more like 2 hours. 

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It has been in my personal experience, that outdoors, in earthy back-dropped environments, I need half as many incan lumens as LED lumens to feel the same comfort level with identification of objects and targets around me. This is subjective and everyone has their own opinions on the LED vs incan thing. Considering that a decent LED module can be had for less than $25-30, it's almost a no brainier to just pick one up to experiment with regardless. 

Eric


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## JCD (Apr 25, 2010)

mdocod said:


> In the case of a 3xCR123 length light like your 9P, a pair of 50mm long li-ion cells is used to substitute. Here we have 17500 vs 18500 cells. In actual testing, a typical 18500 is only packing about 1.25X that of a 17500. The difference here isn't as dramatic. If you want the absolute highest possible energy packed into the 3xCR123 length light in a rechargeable format, 18500s are the way to go.



I'd just like to add that, aside from a little bit of extra capacity, there is another important advantage of using 2x 18500 cells instead of 2x 17500 cells. Being able to use 2x 18500 cells in the light will allow the OP to run the P91, arguably the best 26 mm lamp assembly offered by Surefire, on rechargeable cells in his 9P. It just sucks down too much current to safely and reliably run on 17500 cells. The cells will exceed their 2C maximum safe discharge rate. Without rechargeable cells, the P91 has an operating cost of $13.50 per hour (based on 20 minute runtime and $1.50 per CR123A primary cell), just in batteries.


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## mdocod (Apr 25, 2010)

JCD,

I would be concerned running a P91 on a pair of IMR18500s as I would suspect a high likelihood of insta-flash problems. The LiCo chemistry protected 18500s are actually the better bet here as they will have slightly more resistance and be less apt to pop the lamp. Yes, the 18500 size is needed in the LiCo cells to run the P91, the 17500s are too small. 

Eric


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## JCD (Apr 25, 2010)

mdocod said:


> JCD,
> 
> I would be concerned running a P91 on a pair of IMR18500s as I would suspect a high likelihood of insta-flash problems. The LiCo chemistry protected 18500s are actually the better bet here as they will have slightly more resistance and be less apt to pop the lamp. Yes, the 18500 size is needed in the LiCo cells to run the P91, the 17500s are too small.
> 
> Eric



Interesting. Thanks for the info. I'll edit my post accordingly.


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## angelofwar (Apr 25, 2010)

Malkoff M60F for your "Bump in the night" light. Welcome to CPF BTW, and I'm sure you'll find the BEST advice on the internet here, r.e. lights anyways.

EDIT: You can even add a crenualted bezel from a 6PD to it for even more "bite". Check out the marketplace if yer interested in that.


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## Southpaw1969 (Apr 25, 2010)

Wow, thanks for all the great replies! :wave:

Ok, let me be even more specific now that I have more to go on.

I would prefer to not have to send it out for boring. The brightness isn't bad, and it would be nice to get more lumens, but I don't want to pay what it would cost to just go buy a fenix or quark to do it. 

My real concern, is runtime and/or efficiency- so, to clarify, if I were to leave the stock bulb assembly (which is marked P90, and has ink on the outside of the reflector saying "NB-2", if that means anything) I can run it with 3 RCR123 cells that won't make it any brighter or run much longer if at all, or, I can run it on 2 17500 cells. Will the 17500 cells either give me more lumens, or runtime on the stock lamp? 

Can you guys give me a ballpark figure on an improved drop-in? 


Thanks again!


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## NE450No2 (Apr 25, 2010)

I would take a look at getting the SureFire P60L lamp assembly.
It is a LED, and it will still light up on batteries that will not light u the incandescent bulb. Also you can use 2 AA's in your 9P and they will light u the P 60L.

Then I would take a look at the lamp assemblies offered by Lighthound, both Incandescent and LED.

Which ever light assemblies fit your usage can be carried in the SureFire spares carrier, along with 6 batteries.

So you can put the lamp assembly/battery combo in your 9P that suits your purposes best.

I did not mention anything about rechargeables as I do not use them in my small handhelds. I prefer the 123A batteries, as I like their no drama use and long storage life.

I do not get "free lumens", but I do get reliable, and long storage life lumens. 

Which for Me is a better plan.


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## Chrontius (Apr 25, 2010)

wall-of-light and bump-in-the-night?

Malkoff MC-E. 

It may not run any longer than your old bulbs, but it's about two or three times as bright as a P91, if I recall correctly, and it's a broad room-filling flood.


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## JCD (Apr 26, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> wall-of-light and bump-in-the-night?
> 
> Malkoff MC-E.
> 
> It may not run any longer than your old bulbs, but it's about two or three times as bright as a P91, if I recall correctly, and it's a broad room-filling flood.



I would be very surprised if a Malkoff M60 MC-E drop-in is 2-3 times brighter than a P91 if both are driven by fresh cells. While I couldn't find the Malkoff MC-E drop-in or the exact setup for the P91 a 9P, similar configurations in an integrating sphere show the MC-E to range from unnoticeably (to the naked eye) dimmer to unnoticeably brighter than the Surefire lamp assembly. Surefire has apparently been _extremely_ conservative with their output claims.

In my own less scientific back yard comparisons, my P91 appears brighter than my MC-E drop-in (similar spill, brighter hotspot).


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## mdocod (Apr 26, 2010)

Depends on how you run the P91 and when you take the lumen measurement. 

The 200 lumen claim from SF isn't all that entirely over-rated if you interpret the claim as an average output over the 20 minutes of claimed runtime on 3xCR123s. With fresh cells, it's obviously going to be fair bit brighter than that, and if we over-drive it with a pair of large li-ion cell, it's going to be much brighter still. 

Depending on the Malkoff MCE module chosen combined with luck of the draw on emitters, the output range is going to be in the 400-600 torch lumen territory as I understand. 

The P91 can break 400 torch lumens when driven hard, but might only be 200-250 torch lumen when measured half way through a discharge on a set of CR123s. 

So if one were to compare very specific circumstances, the MCE Malkoff module can be 2-3X brighter than the P91, in other cases, it's possible for the P91 to be just as bright.


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## DrDave (Apr 26, 2010)

Try to get the latest LED bulb that fits your light and use 3 high quality CR123A batteries.
Forget about guilt free lumens, it can be a dangerous game, for example if you overcharge a 18650 it can blow up, If you drain too much of a 18650, it can blow up. To hell with that junk .......


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## DrDave (Apr 26, 2010)

NE450No2 said:


> I would take a look at getting the SureFire P60L lamp assembly.
> It is a LED, and it will still light up on batteries that will not light u the incandescent bulb. Also you can use 2 AA's in your 9P and they will light u the P 60L.
> 
> Then I would take a look at the lamp assemblies offered by Lighthound, both Incandescent and LED.
> ...


 
I agree, 123A batteries cost more but I trust them and with the efficiency of LED`s + lower cost of batteries its not so bad anymore .....


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## JCD (Apr 26, 2010)

DrDave said:


> Try to get the latest LED bulb that fits your light and use 3 high quality CR123A batteries.
> Forget about guilt free lumens, it can be a dangerous game, for example if you overcharge a 18650 it can blow up, If you drain too much of a 18650, it can blow up. To hell with that junk .......



The latest LED isn't always the best. It may not have sufficient throw with only a 26 mm reflector (e.g., SST-90, MC-E), the tint may be too cool, or the CRI may be too low. The latest in technology does not mean it's the right emitter for the job at hand.

Also, not all rechargeable cells are created equally. LiFePO4 and LiMN chemistries are much more stable in the event of over discharging and overcharging. They pose a bigger danger of a cell simply dying than dangerously venting with flame under such conditions.

Further, primary cells cannot be considered completely safe, either. They have their issues, too.

If someone uses their light regularly, it won't take long for a quality charger (that won't overcharge) and quality cells to pay for themselves in savings from not having to buy primaries. Personally, without rechargeable cells, I'd be using 12-18 primary cells per week during the summer (i.e., approximately $100 per month for primary cells), so the decision is a no brainer for me. On the other hand, someone who only uses their light for a couple minutes each month may not be able to justify the initial investment of a rechargeable system. YMMV.


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## mdocod (Apr 26, 2010)

Southpaw1969 said:


> Ok, let me be even more specific now that I have more to go on.
> 
> I would prefer to not have to send it out for boring.



Not a problem, plenty of options on the table without boring. 



> The brightness isn't bad, and it would be nice to get more lumens, but I don't want to pay what it would cost to just go buy a fenix or quark to do it.


Give it time, you'll come around 



> ...which is marked P90.....
> ....I can run it with 3 RCR123 cells that won't make it any brighter or run much longer if at all


3 RCR123 cells will not run it for very long at all, in fact, about 0.04 seconds will be the time it takes for those cells to blow the lamp. 

With a different lamp assembly, in a different head, it would be possible to run 3xIMR16340s from AW and make nearly 500 torch lumens, but the runtime would only be about 10 minutes. 



> ....., or, I can run it on 2 17500 cells. Will the 17500 cells either give me more lumens, or runtime on the stock lamp?


The pair of 17500s will give you the highest possible energy storage that you can put in a 9P body in a rechargeable format. . It's the most logical direction to go. You can then modify your output and runtime up and down based on what lamp you decide to run in it. The best way to get more of both is going to be a modern LED module, which will handily spank the P90 in total output. 

The pair of 17500s will run the P90 similarly enough to the way it ran on 3xCR123s that you probably won't be able to tell much difference unless you look for it. The runtime will be perhaps slightly less than it was on CR123s assuming quality CR123s. 



> Can you guys give me a ballpark figure on an improved drop-in?
> 
> 
> Thanks again!



check this one out

If you have time, you might be well served to read through THIS as well. It's for incan only configurations but it will give you the basics to get things started. using LED drop-in modules is actually less complicated in many cases than setting up incandecent configurations because most LED modules are designed to operate across a wider input voltage. In the compatibility charts you can get a rough feel for the output and runtime balance of dozens of different lamp and battery combinations. 

Other thoughts:

The only consumer oriented cradle style li-ion charger that charges loose li-ion cells according to li-ion cell manufacture charge recommendations is the Pila IBC and it's $50 plus shipping and handling. There are plenty of other cheaper options out there that can be used pretty safely if you are aware of their pitfalls and intervene to prevent those pitfalls from becoming a problem. 

AW brand protected black label 17500s are really good, actually delivering more than their label rated 1100mAH, they are $10 each plus shipping and handling. The popularity of the 17500 size cell has gone down in recent years as more people have migrated towards 18650 size cells, so there isn't a lot of following for other brands of cells in this size so I'd have a hard time saying whether they are any good or not. 

Eric


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## JNewell (Apr 26, 2010)

Yeow - this thread is close to needing to be a sticky. Great info here.:thumbsup:


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## FlashKat (Apr 26, 2010)

How many rechargeable batteries have blown up on you, since you sound like an expert. I have been using rechargeable batteries for over 3 years and never had any problems. Just use common sense.


DrDave said:


> Try to get the latest LED bulb that fits your light and use 3 high quality CR123A batteries.
> Forget about guilt free lumens, it can be a dangerous game, for example if you overcharge a 18650 it can blow up, If you drain too much of a 18650, it can blow up. To hell with that junk .......


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## mdocod (Apr 26, 2010)

DrDave said:


> Try to get the latest LED bulb that fits your light and use 3 high quality CR123A batteries.
> Forget about guilt free lumens, it can be a dangerous game, for example if you overcharge a 18650 it can blow up, If you drain too much of a 18650, it can blow up. To hell with that junk .......



Hello DrDave,

Myself and others have a strong tendency towards the dramatic when talking li-ion safety and charging requirements. Your thoughts show that I need to be more careful about putting things in perspective. 

At this time, we have a very large percentage of CPF members using li-ion cells in their flashlights. Many of us own dozens of cells, several chargers, and many lights configured with li-ion cells. The frequency of problems is extraordinarily minimal and can usually be linked to a user error that was preventable. 

On the other hand, we do have dozens of reports of CR123s, even name brand USA made CR123s exploding with absolutely no user error involved. CR123s have a more dangerous and explosive track record than the various lithium ion options used by CPF members. 

I feel safer with li-ion cells than with CR123s. 

Eric


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## Roger999 (Apr 27, 2010)

DrDave said:


> Try to get the latest LED bulb that fits your light and use 3 high quality CR123A batteries.
> Forget about guilt free lumens, it can be a dangerous game, for example if you overcharge a 18650 it can blow up, If you drain too much of a 18650, it can blow up. To hell with that junk .......


I haven't heard of any AW's cells blowing up, but I've heard of many primary cr123a batteries blowing up.....


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## Southpaw1969 (Apr 27, 2010)

Wow! I had no idea there was so much to flashlights! :wow:

Ok, since I'm new to much of this newfangled info, I'm gonna start slow and get my feet wet.

The first step, will be to get a pair or 2 of the AW17500 protected cells, and a compatible charger. Are you saying I should get the Pila IBC? Will that charge other cells as well? I'd like to get one that will charge 14500 cells as well to go in my new Nitecore NDI.

I'd like to compare how the 17500 cells perform vs. my Surefire CR123 primaries (which are labeled "SF123A" :thinking in real world usage. Even if the run time is slightly less, I won't mind if the lumen output is similar because I don't anticipate having to run the light for more than 5-15 minutes at a time anyway really. I can just top it off occasionally to keep it within the proper voltage range. I guess it's not realistic to expect tons of run time and big lumen numbers. It's not like it's going to be an EDC light. That's what the NDI is for.

After getting used to using the 17500 cells, then I'll decide if I want/need to get an LED drop in. The one mdocod listed was only around $35 which doesn't sound insane, so I would definitely consider it. I have no idea what the Malkoff ones I keep hearing about cost, but I suspect they ain't cheap. Maybe I'll see about getting one later if I go from doing bumps of 14500 cells, to mainlining 18650 cells! :laughing:

Oh man, my head is starting to spin. Maybe I'll wait a week before I start asking about what I can do with my 2 other Surefires! 
These damn Surefires are a gateway drug! Pretty soon you'll see guys at the freeway offramps with a sign that says "Will work for CR123 primaries"


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## computernut (Apr 27, 2010)

My first foray into rechargeable flashlights was with my G3 and 2xAW17500's. I was going to get the Pila IBC as I heard it was high quality which is important for something like Li-Ion. One of my other hobbies is R/C cars so I decided to use my LiPo charger (Duratax ICE). I find I get the same runtime out of the two 17500's as I do with three CR123a's (Lumens Factory SR-9 lamp assembly). I'd definitely get an extra set of cells though as it takes time to charge which isn't always handy as I don't like leaving my cells charging unattended. If you use cells in pairs you should label them so you don't mix cells of different ages or usage. I definitely haven't regretted switching to rechargeable for my most used light.


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## Kestrel (Apr 27, 2010)

computernut said:


> My first foray into rechargeable flashlights was with my G3 and 2xAW17500's


First foray for me; SF *C*3, 2x AW 17500's, Pila IBC. No regrets here. :thumbsup:


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## nfetterly (Apr 27, 2010)

P91 !!

I have (2) AW 3 level soft start (replaces guts in a surefire tailcap - makes it's a (non-click) clicky with turn to lockout) - it's about $50 (lighthound sells them as well as directly from AW) - it allows me to use the IMR cells with the P91. Gets the most out of it but doesn't instaflash as it starts it "soft". Also gives you 3 levels - which may not be super efficient on incans, but will give longer run times.

For a relative "pocket" rocket - a 6P with 2 16340 AW IMR cells (same size as CR123s), a P91 and the soft start. VERY BRIGHT. 

I counted last weekend & I have ~8 P91s in 35 mm film containers & (empty prescription) pill bottles - I posted a WTB & paid $15 for 1 to $15 for 2. As noted earlier - if you are using CR123s, using the P91 is a very expensive proposition.

As you get further into it - look into FiveMega's D26 socket that takes the CL1794 custom bulb that Nite is selling. That was tested at ~1000 lumens. I use mine in a 2x18650 light usually (AW 3 level soft start). The CL1794 bulbs are I think ~$11 each so not any cheaper than I paid for the P91s.


AND - if you really want to pimp.... in I think the custom B/S/T there is someone with an interest thread that has a friend with a shop that does cerakote (ceramic coating originally for guns - very tough. Very nice - I have an orange cerakote 5P from Moddoo).


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## ampdude (Apr 27, 2010)

If it were my light, I would keep it as is, and run a Surefire P90 or Lumens Factory SR-9 off of two AW P17500 cells.

If you want 2 x IMR18500 capability, best to get one of Fivemega's 18mm bodies in the Marketplace, they are inexpensive and high quality. Then get a new head and tailcap since the original head is lexan and not really upgradeable unless you replace it entirely. In other words, I'd stick with the light you have. The older 9P's are a little shorter and sleeker, they do have that advantage over the newer ones just like the vintage 6P's vs. the new ones. And they are prettier.


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## JCD (Apr 27, 2010)

ampdude said:


> If it were my light, I would keep it as is, and run a Surefire P90 … off of two AW P17500 cells.



That's exactly how I have my C3-HA set up. I can run rechargeable cells or primaries without changing the lamp assembly. I also have a P60L (which will also run in both battery configurations) set aside for times when I might need long runtime.


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## ampdude (Apr 27, 2010)

JCD said:


> That's exactly how I have my C3-HA set up. I can run rechargeable cells or primaries without changing the lamp assembly. I also have a P60L (which will also run in both battery configurations) set aside for times when I might need long runtime.



Yes, I have a C3-HA set up the same way and it's always been one of my favorite lights! It's one of my emergency/SHTF lights for the very reason you mention, rechargeable or primaries with only a switch of batteries.


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## ampdude (Apr 27, 2010)

mdocod said:


> Hello DrDave,
> 
> Myself and others have a strong tendency towards the dramatic when talking li-ion safety and charging requirements. Your thoughts show that I need to be more careful about putting things in perspective.
> 
> ...



I sure hope I never have that experience. I try to stick to only Surefire and Duracell brand of CR123a's and I do a voltage check and visual inspection on my user batteries fairly often. If I notice any strange behavior, especially while the light is running, I try to remove them immediately and check them out or chuck them, though I think I've only done that when I've had an incan lamp suddenly go dead. One good battery and one battery that kicked the bucket is a bad combo. That's one good advantage of incans, it's harder to tell in mid stride with some LED lights if one battery suddenly died and the other is okay. And I only drain down CR123a batteries in single cell lights, but I don't do that often either, since I mostly have two and three cell incans that I use mostly with rechargeables.


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## ptirmal (Apr 28, 2010)

I have a D3 (9P with a clip) and a C3. I use a P90 in my D3 and leave it in my car, my C3 is bored to accept 18500 cells and that's what I use (I also have a cell extender bored if I want to use 18650 cells but I don't like how big it makes the light). My C3 runs a P91 and although I haven't timed it I'd say I get about 30+ minutes use out of this combo. 

I kept them both incandescents for now because of the color rendition, the P90 with 17500 cells is a good compromise, but I really enjoy the combo of output/color and runtime using the P91 on 18500's. The best part with 9v lamps and the 3 cell bodies is you can use 2 65mm li-ions for regular use but if you need to you can always use 3 primaries in a pinch.


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## kelmo (May 6, 2010)

The Lumens Factory EO-9 lamp assembly is nice. 

But for me, no pimping is necessary. Stock rocks!


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## Southpaw1969 (May 7, 2010)

Thanks guys! :wave:

It looks like I'm definitely putting in an order for a pair or 2 of AW protected 17500's, and possibly a Lumens factory drop in. I want to see how it (stock lamp 9P w/ 2X 17500's) stacks up to my E2DL with primaries and RCR's first before I decide on the drop in. I also need to get my ducks in a row on all the other batteries I need before I order, but that's for another post! 

Do you notice much difference in output with the LF EO-9 vs. the stock lamp? It's only $16, but if the output isn't much higher, or the beam or color isn't nice I might skip it. I won't mind the reduced run time if I'm using Li Ions. Don't really wanna pay $12/hr for light with primaries! :shakehead

As far as "pimping" the 9P goes, maybe I over-hyped the title a bit. I don't really want to do much to it cosmetically. Although, one of the newer bezels might be in order if I want to run the extreme high output lamp as the stock lens seems like thin plastic that might not respond too well to the extra heat.


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## ampdude (May 8, 2010)

The EO-9 is a bit too much lamp for P17500 cells. Wouldn't be a problem if IMR17500's were available, but unfortunately that's not the case.

At least I wouldn't run that lamp with P17500's for extended periods. Short runtimes should be okay, but won't be very good for the cells.


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## JCD (May 8, 2010)

ampdude said:


> The EO-9 is a bit too much lamp for P17500 cells. Wouldn't be a problem if IMR17500's were available, but unfortunately that's not the case.
> 
> At least I wouldn't run that lamp with P17500's for extended periods. Short runtimes should be okay, but won't be very good for the cells.



What about the HO-9?


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