# Help a newbie with first MBI.



## shilohsharps (Oct 4, 2013)

Hi all,

I have finally embraced the fact that I'm a flashaholic. Up to this point, I have only collected "big name" makes/models not realizing the wonderful world of custom lights....boy have I been missing out.

MBI has opened my eyes....they are absolutely awesome, and I need to own a few. Would anyone mind sharing there thoughts on where I should start....such as, which model. I do realize that I may be limited to what is available, but some input would be appreciated. I would purchase any model if available in brass or copper....but I don't believe any are available at this point.

Thanks in advance!


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## tjswarbrick (Oct 4, 2013)

I have no MBI, but the UI intrigues me.
From the research I have done, were I to pick one up, I'd look to start with an HF-R.
Good luck! Customs rock.


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## DrafterDan (Oct 4, 2013)

I've got the HF. It's always on my keychain. A very solid light.


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## gravelmonkey (Oct 4, 2013)

shilohsharps said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have finally embraced the fact that I'm a flashaholic. Up to this point, I have only collected "big name" makes/models not realizing the wonderful world of custom lights....boy have I been missing out.
> 
> ...



re. 'where to start', you've described yourself as a newbie- are you familiar with using/charging li-ion cells safely? 

I'm looking forward to the Zeus, personally


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## shilohsharps (Oct 4, 2013)

I put my name on the list for a Zeus....hope I make the cut. I really like the HF and HF-R...tough decision between the two. If you order a HF from MBI, will they install the tritiums if you ask?


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## shilohsharps (Oct 4, 2013)

gravelmonkey said:


> re. 'where to start', you've described yourself as a newbie- are you familiar with using/charging li-ion cells safely?
> 
> I'm looking forward to the Zeus, personally



Somewhat.....specifically with heat and not overcharging.


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## cactux (Oct 4, 2013)

If Cu or Al is a must for you you can get the HF-R which is a super one, or you can wait for Zeus which is the next release. 
You can get the HF and HF-R here:
http://www.oveready.com/mbi-flashlights/cat_82.html


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## CaptainRogersUK (Oct 4, 2013)

def start with the hf-r. you will not be disappointed


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## CaptainRogersUK (Oct 4, 2013)

DrafterDan said:


> I've got the HF. It's always on my keychain. A very solid light.



I just love that watch... that watch retails at £550 in the uk.... can I call you bond, james bond...lol


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## cactux (Oct 4, 2013)

Just keep in mind that you *MUST* follow the instructions and it is not like the standard flashlights and you will be okay.


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## shilohsharps (Oct 4, 2013)

I really appreciate everyone's input....thank you.


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## Cataract (Oct 5, 2013)

cactux said:


> Just keep in mind that you *MUST* follow the instructions and it is not like the standard flashlights and you will be okay.



Yup, you definitely do not want to run the battery down too much between charges or it will lose some of its power and awesomeness or plainly die on you. I do recommend you read up on lithium-ion battery safety, but the HF and HF-R are not likely to cause explosions or fire since they don`t use advanced circuits.

If you really want some of the more exotic materials, feel free to voice your wish on the HF thread or you can also PM guy directly to inquire. He might be running some extra batches in the future. Some flashlight dealers also have the HF and HF-R in stock and with luck they might have what you`re looking for. You can also check the CPF Marketplace; all sorts of lights and accessories are sold there, including HF's.

Yes, Guy does the tritium vial installation for a very small fee. I believe the option is listed on the order page.

As to which one to buy, I can only give you a description of what pictures do not convey well: The HF-R looks smaller (although all parts are 100% compatible) and so far the zoom head only comes in black (but there is a small possibility of a run in copper (or was it brass?) The best way to let Guy know is by voicing yourself on his thread. He realy listens and does everything he can to accommodate everyone.

As for the HF bolt style, it has the advantage of being anti-roll and tail standing very nicely, plus the trits are a great addition and visible from the sides, making for an excellent night table light (although the ultratrit tail has many trits and probably tail stands as well as the bolt style tail.


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## shilohsharps (Oct 5, 2013)

Well, after a LOT of searching.....I was able to find a copper HF with N219 (2mode). I can't wait to receive it!

Now I just need to figure out how to source and install some blue ice tritiums. Also, keeping my fingers crossed for a Zeus.


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## Cataract (Oct 5, 2013)

COOL! Check-out the marketplace as well for people who sell/install trits... some of them could be near you.


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## shilohsharps (Oct 5, 2013)

Thanks Cataract.

Does anyone happen two know the size of the tritium vials that will fit in the two locations on the tail of my HF?

I've seen 1.5mm x 5mm for sale, but wondering if they'll fit. I've seen another post showing 2mm x 6mm but can't find that size for sale.


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## Cataract (Oct 5, 2013)

I believe they are 1.5 X 5mm trit slots, the 2X6 probably need extra machining... my memory is only so good, let me send the Unicorn to get some help


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## DBCstm (Oct 5, 2013)

Hey, Uni said you needed some info. I'd stay with the 1.5x5's as the 2mm cause issues. The vials aren't uniform in thickness, causing the HF slots to need boring out in many cases. The Ti bodies eat drill bits. So the smaller trit is the better choice, to fit into the slot and give room for centering when applying the Norland 61.

I'm sure Guy will chip in with some more information, but measuring one of my copper HF's indicates the 1.5 x 5 would be the best bet.

Norland 61 from RocketTomato in the MarketPlace is the way to go for installation. If you have a 365nm UV light source, that's the way to go for a quick cure. Otherwise sunlight will do the job but will just take a little longer with less intensity. You can use a piece of thread at one end to hold the trit in place while setting the other end. Then reverse it and set the end that had the thread. It has been a good practice to only glue the 2 ends, leaving the middle open for better intensity of light from the Trit. 

Dale


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## shilohsharps (Oct 6, 2013)

Excellent... Thanks for the info.


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## DBCstm (Oct 6, 2013)

Trit's can be found in the most colors and sizes here http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?270326-B-rt-s-Tritium-thread-part-deux-bis

Norland 61 can be found here http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...and-61-Optical-Adhesive-for-Trit-installation

Happy hunting! 

Dale


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## the_guy_with_no_name (Oct 6, 2013)

shilohsharps said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I have finally embraced the fact that I'm a flashaholic. Up to this point, I have only collected "big name" makes/models not realizing the wonderful world of custom lights....boy have I been missing out.
> 
> ...



Hi shilohsharps,

Thanks very much for the post and taking an interest in MBI flashlights 
Looks like you've had plenty of great suggestions and advice.
Sorry I'm a little slow to reply, I was out of action due to a sports injury this weekend.

Unfortunately I'm currently out of both copper and brass but I hope to have some more of those in the coming months.
Please feel welcome to mail me via my website (links in my footer) or PM (on cpf) if there's anything else I can be of help with.

Thanks,
Tgwnn


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## shilohsharps (Oct 6, 2013)

Thank you Guy! Hope you feel better.

Doug


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## the_guy_with_no_name (Oct 7, 2013)

shilohsharps said:


> Thank you Guy! Hope you feel better.
> 
> Doug



Hi Doug,

My pleasure of course.

Thanks, feeling much better (being able to walk is a major plus) :thumbsup:
Nothing serious though so should be outrunning the solar system again in a couple of days.

A note on the copper and trits...
Copper is the softest material to work with and often times, when I was adjusting trit holes,
I could mostly rotate the drill bit without even needing a drill.

Most of the time a 2mm drill will do the trick but for some trits, I used a 2.1mm.
Not a huge difference in brightness, but just a little more fullness with the 2mm sized trits.

Installation...
Go very slowly and don't use too much force (I've had a few self-installers who've broken trits on the install, including myself).
If the trit won't go in using only as much force as it takes to push a (full) can of coke across a smooth table, its too much force and best to adjust the size of the hole or use a thinner trit.

1.5mm thickness is guaranteed to fit an 2mm thickness should fit in most cases.
The max length can be up to 8mm but typically its 6mm.

Tgwnn


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## shilohsharps (Oct 7, 2013)

Picked up three 1.55 x 5 ice blues....figured I needed 1 extra to break!


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## Cataract (Oct 7, 2013)

Good taste, I have a Cu HF with ice-blue trits too. Don't forget to clean up thoroughly and was your hands obsessively if you break one just to be on the safe side.


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## climberkid (Oct 7, 2013)

Ice blue on my Ti HF with the TV on. Taken with my iPad. 


-Alex


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## shilohsharps (Oct 7, 2013)

Last thing I need to buy for this Cu HF is a Zoomhead.....I don't think copper is available.....have to decide between Ti and Brass.....decisions, decisions.....


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## Cataract (Oct 8, 2013)

There has been a couple of special requests for a Cu zoomhead 

.
.


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## shilohsharps (Oct 8, 2013)

Cataract said:


> There has been a couple of special requests for a Cu zoomhead
> 
> .
> .


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## the_guy_with_no_name (Oct 9, 2013)

Hoping this may be of help 











Tgwnn


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## shilohsharps (Oct 9, 2013)

Thanks Guy,

Think I like the looks of the brass/copper combo.....but, that Ti sure would lighten things up a bit (no paronomasia intended).


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## the_guy_with_no_name (Oct 9, 2013)

shilohsharps said:


> Thanks Guy,
> 
> Think I like the looks of the brass/copper combo.....but, that Ti sure would lighten things up a bit (no paronomasia intended).



My pleasure.
In the dark, I'm guessing either combo will look just perfect 

Tgwnn


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## Cataract (Oct 9, 2013)

Luckily, the HF is made to fight darkness and bring it into the light 

... wait a second, doesn't that defeat the purpose?


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## mcbrat (Oct 10, 2013)

Cataract said:


> There has been a couple of special requests for a Cu zoomhead
> 
> .
> .



:thumbsup:


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## tjswarbrick (Nov 12, 2013)

tjswarbrick said:


> I have no MBI, but the UI intrigues me.
> From the research I have done, were I to pick one up, I'd look to start with an HF-R.
> Good luck! Customs rock.



I'll let you know in a month or so if I stand by my recommendation. HF-R Ti is on the way!


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## joeray (Dec 20, 2013)

Newbie question, sorry what's a MBI?

is there a acronyms thread?

thanks


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## archimedes (Dec 20, 2013)

joeray said:


> Newbie question, sorry what's a MBI?
> 
> is there a acronyms thread?
> 
> thanks



MBI = MatchBox Instruments

Here's that thread ... 

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/332809


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## joeray (Dec 20, 2013)

archimedes said:


> MBI = MatchBox Instruments
> 
> Here's that thread ...
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/332809




Thank you.


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## invisible_kid (Mar 11, 2014)

i noticed on the website only 1 option is available for the ti version mbi-hf. are the other options different leds? and what are the main differences?


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## Got Lumens? (Mar 19, 2014)

invisible_kid said:


> i noticed on the website only 1 option is available for the ti version mbi-hf. are the other options different leds? and what are the main differences?


There are Two different switches, a two mode and a three mode.
There are two different LED's a standard CW and the warmer NW.
These options do not include the tritium vial options of installed or not.
GL


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## invisible_kid (Mar 20, 2014)

Thank you. Gl. Looks like I was reading it right but just wanted to double check


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