# Surefire M6 SMO/LOP reflector to increase THROW



## Mettee (Oct 5, 2010)

Carried on from the Incandescent section topic HERE. Since it has turned into a sales/feeler, the mods wanted me to put it here. 

Picking up where we left off....

Pulled the silicon material for inspection, looks good no issues.






Then this....


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## Mettee (Oct 5, 2010)

High power bulbs
1185 SMO
1185 STK
1909 SMO
1909 STK









Low power bulbs
EO-M3T SMO
EO-M3T STK
MN21 SMO
MN21 STK
MN20 SMO
MN20 STK





1185 SMO only


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 5, 2010)

Very nice SMO looking reflector. I would like to see confirmation (as there appeared to be some question in the other thread) that the reflector can handle the heat of both the 1185 and 1909 bulbs.


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## Mettee (Oct 5, 2010)

Working on it now  I have one battery charge through it on an 1185. Batteries are 3x17650 if you are curious. I took it out, pointed it, very nice bright warm tunnel of light. Not dark enough for a throw test.


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## Justin Case (Oct 5, 2010)

At least based on Lux Luthor's data, the 5761 and 1909 look to be much hotter running bulbs than the 1185.

I would also test for beam quality characteristics using bulbs with a variety of filament dimensions -- such as "point source" filaments like the N1 and N2, and "bar" filaments like the MN16, MN60, and MN61. The various W-A lamps like the 1111, 1331, and 1185 are sort of intermediate. May as well also include the MN20 and MN21, since those are sort of the standard bearers for the SF M6. Most of the above lamps can be used with the PhD-M6, so they may have a reasonable probability of actual use in an M6.

Other candidate test bulbs could include the Hikari 5607, and some of the various Lumens Factory lamps.

If you don't have a PhD-M6, that would remove some of the above bulbs that aren't well matched for direct drive.


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## Dioni (Oct 6, 2010)

Indeed, very nice SMO!


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## Mettee (Oct 6, 2010)

I dont have all those bulbs so some of them will not be tested, sorry.

Plan is for 1909, 1185, 1111, stock SF bulbs like MN16 MN60 MN61 , and random Lumens factory. If you want a bulb tested feel free to send it my way, all I am offering is to test it with this reflector. Individuals should be able to use the info from those bulbs to arrive at a very good hypothesis on performance of any other different bulbs.

What is the average O.D. of the Phillips 5761 if you can measure a bulb? I need an average of at least 3 bulbs I would say.

The vertex of the reflector is going to be a specific size to take advantage of the most commonly used bulbs in the M6. So, what that means is that some bulbs will possibly not work(5761). I personally would never use that bulb over an 1185 so it really doesn't matter much to me. I honestly was not even thinking about it. What bulb/s(pick two and be realistic) will the majority of you be using on a regular basis? The M6 shootout shows the 1185 as the winner, and I agree with that, but those seeking different run times may want something else.

To end all these heat issues, I plan to hit one of these with a Osram 64657 and 1909 to test for heat. I am pretty sure those are two of the hottest bulbs I could choose, but if not I am sure I will be corrected. I will let you know what happens, I figure that should end all the concerns. :duck:

For some performance feedback from last night...In the rain I did a shot at a location I normally test at. I have been shining the M6 there once a night to burn that performance into my brain. After changing out to this new set up the light at the longest throw distance looks to be a good percentage brighter than the stock reflector. Just as I thought it would from my past experience. The beam is not overly tight and really gathers the light well to illuminate a large area better at that given longest distance. I am sorry I dont have a tape measure so I dont know how far, roughly 150-180 yards. And yes it does out throw the stock reflector. It really keeps it a usable light even with the SMO. Done with 1185 and 3x17650 with softstart.

Give me some time and I will start throwing up beam shots. Weather permitting.


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## Justin Case (Oct 6, 2010)

The bulbs you have on-hand look reasonably comprehensive, although I think you should also test an MN20 and MN21 since those are the factory lamps that come with the M6.

The Osram 64657 is over 1/2" diam. Unless you plan on making your reflector with a larger than stock opening, the big Osram super bulbs will not fit.

All (6 or 7?) of my 5761 lamps fit through my KT4 -- thus glass diam is smaller than the stock opening for a KT4 reflector. But that doesn't seem to be 100% -- apparently 5761s have enough glass envelope size variation that some are too big to fit in a KT4. I am similarly lucky with my supply of Osram 64250 lamps (a less expensive substitute for the WA1111). They all fit.

If you don't have a PhD-M6, then DDing bulbs like the MN60 and MN61 might not work out too well when using an M6 host. They'll be fine in an M4 running 123A primaries. Similar issue with the MN16. You'd probably need an M3 host for direct drive testing.


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## Mettee (Oct 7, 2010)

I'll likely test the 20/21, just didn't type it.

64657 will be tested in a big reflector with the same coating. 1909 in this M6 reflector. Since that is likely the hottest that will be used thats what I will base things off of.

Again, an average O.D. of the phillips 5761 will be needed. Or its out, I dont have them on hand. Maybe someone with bulbs and dial calipers can check this? Its just not worth it in my opinion to not take full advantage of the WA bulbs and stock bulbs with an optimised vertex opening dimension.

I do not have a PHD M6 set up, too rich for my blood  I have a M3 but chances are I will fall back on another bulb for testing as they will all likely perform the same, just at different brightness levels.

More testing tonight on a long walk, majority of time on high. Should be the third or fourth battery cycle with the 1185. No issues.


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## alantch (Oct 7, 2010)

mettee, very very nice SMO reflector! As far as bulbs go, my favorite 2 bulbs are the HO-M6R and WA1185. Looking forward to your further test results and beam shots.


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## Justin Case (Oct 7, 2010)

The 5761's glass envelope has a slightly oval profile. The widths (in a direction parallel to a line that connects the two bi-pin legs) and depths (in a direction perpendicular to a line connecting the two bi-pin legs) are:


```
Bulb  Width   Depth
1      0.354"  0.342"
2      0.354"  0.341"
3      0.356"  0.344"
4      0.355"  0.343"
5      0.355"  0.345"
```


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## Mettee (Oct 7, 2010)

alantch said:


> mettee, very very nice SMO reflector! As far as bulbs go, my favorite 2 bulbs are the HO-M6R and WA1185. Looking forward to your further test results and beam shots.



Noted, and thank you Sir.


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## Mettee (Oct 7, 2010)

Justin Case said:


> The 5761's glass envelope has a slightly oval profile. The widths (in a direction parallel to a line that connects the two bi-pin legs) and depths (in a direction perpendicular to a line connecting the two bi-pin legs) are:
> 
> 
> ```
> ...




Hummmm, let me think about this bulb. It would require some compromise with what I want to have happen. It might be out, sorry to say. Its just not that popular of a bulb as far as I am concerned and its not worth sacrificing the performance of the stock and more popular bulbs.


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## Justin Case (Oct 8, 2010)

No big deal. The 5761 draws a lot of current and runs hot, so IMO it isn't as desirable of a bulb as some other choices such as the various Welch-Allyn bulbs. You have the heat test covered with the Osram 64657 and the 1909 anyway. Also, the 5761's voltage range before instaflashing is limited, so running on 2xIMR18650 could be bad. I'm using it with a PhD-M6, and even then it probably would be better if and when IMR17670s hit the scene.

If you plan to test the big Osram, does this mean you are considering two (or more) reflector configurations -- a small reflector opening for bulbs like the W-As and the stock SF MN lamps, and a bigger opening for the larger Osrams? Or is it just a test reflector, not meant for the KT4?


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## Mettee (Oct 8, 2010)

...custom vertex sizes will be available special order 

The one I am testing with is for another build I am doing, I showed an image of it in the other thread. Green head and body....64657, softstart, etc.


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## Justin Case (Oct 8, 2010)

Mettee said:


> ...custom vertex sizes will be available special order


 
Very nice.


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## Mettee (Oct 9, 2010)

A shot taken from the other night. Its not the best it can be I will admit that. It is taken hand held with a sony TX5. 
Just a quick throw shot at a distance close to 200 yards.

Control





Bridge in distance is the target.










I am waiting for another stock M6 head to do back to back shots of stock vs. SMO. Please bare with me


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## Mettee (Oct 9, 2010)

Ok, I just looked on google maps and it says that distance is well over 200 yards...I am not sure I believe it though.






ETA: That is the correct distance it seems.


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## Mettee (Oct 12, 2010)

Going to do some set up work this evening and thought I would enlist the help of you all. I wanted to ask, how would you like to see the beam shots taken? I was going to set up in a park that has little to no night light. So the only light you see will be coming from the M6. And I wanted to be able to illuminate an easily visible object to allow everyone to see the difference in light intensity on that object. The problem I was having with the above "for fun" shots is that there was some "street light" present.

Tell me if you have any input on what you want to see in the beam shots.


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## alantch (Oct 12, 2010)

To get a good idea of how a light performs, beamshot pics should be clear/sharp and the framing should not move from shot to shot. This is especially helpful if you want to do a rotating GIF image to show the difference in brightness between the different setups. That means sitting the camera on a sturdy tripod, on manual exposure settings, using manual focus and timer tripped to avoid shake/jitter. Different exposure settings should be experimented to get a result that closely matches what your eyes are seeing on site. For me, it does not matter if the area is lit or partly lit, as long as it's not overly bright . I'm sure most of us don't always use our lights in pitch darkness as there will always be some sort of lighting around in this day and age.

Thanks for doing this for us mettee.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 12, 2010)

Mettee,

I agree with Alan that you need to have a locked camera mount and fixed aperture and speed.

I would refer to DM51's M6 shootout thread as it really is THE definitive thread for both M6 bulb options and great comparative beamshots:https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/230857

You don't need to spend a lot of money on a mount or anything. IIRC DM51 used his wife cutting board or something like that.


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## Mettee (Oct 12, 2010)

Ok, thanks guys. 

I have already lined up a DSLR camera and a tripod. So that is covered. I was thinking if I can, I will provide some zoom shots as well since some of the pictures I already took its hard for the eye and camera to get a good shot of the farthest throw. I was also hoping to hit an object so that we could all see the amount of light that hits the object. Beam shots can be misleading, we all know that. 

More than likely I will do a few shots at a closer object that shows the increase in hot spot as well, that should give some feedback. Something at say 100 yards that is easily lit by both reflectors, but shows the difference in the two.

I will be working on this over the next two days and nights, thank god for days off so I can work :mecry:

And you are welcome, I am having fun...this should be pretty cool. We have some improvements that will make it into production units. They will increase performance over this reflector I am testing. So likely you will not be disappointed.


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## Mettee (Oct 15, 2010)

Ok, the beam shots went well everyone. I was able to test for heat with the 1909 and it did very well. Not one problem to speak of, and performance was great with all bulbs. You can really see the beam pattern in the pictures. Once I upload the images today after work I will post them to the 2nd reply in the thread, so look for that later.

I will more than likely do some more long distance throw shots this weekend just to give definitive throw numbers(distance).


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## Mettee (Oct 15, 2010)

Sorry guys none of the shots turned out I have to re shoot them all. I am not a happy camper right now. 

Anyone have any good settings to suggest for a Canon EOS 40D.....


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## alantch (Oct 16, 2010)

Mettee, what was wrong with the shots? If you could show a few shots here for us to see what possibly went wrong, then we might be able to suggest methods and possible settings.


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## Mettee (Oct 16, 2010)

Here are are 5 shots. 1 control, a back to back 1185 stock vs SMO, and another back to back 1909 stock vs SMO. 
They are very blurry and noisy, they still show the performance, they are just not what I want to post.They looked 
awesome on the camera screan. I used TV mode, which is to my knowledge "shutter priority mode". I am a perfectionist 
so I wont settle on these. I will eventually redo them all, and probably at another location, I needed another 100 yards 
distance to really show what I wanted to. And also I want to take more time to focus the bulbs and center the hot spot. 
Dont laugh at my pictures please  it was my first time with this camera.

This is 200 confirmed yards. Another CPF member attended and helped out, if he wants to chime in at all he can :wave:

Control






SMO with 1185 run off 3x17650





Stock with 1185 run off 3x17650





SMO with 1909 run off 6 IMR in MB20





Stock with 1909 run off 6 IMR in MB20





ETA: Park, the large green tree that is closest is at 100 yards. The house and huge tree in back are at 200 yards.


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## one2tim (Oct 16, 2010)

ouch the smo with 1909 picture almost looks like medium output setting compared to the stock 1909


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## Mettee (Oct 16, 2010)

Its all in the beam, look at the hot spot, that hot spot would have gone another 100 yards. Next shots I take will show that better. The stock looks awesome, but all that light is right there in front of you.


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## wquiles (Oct 16, 2010)

Having done LOTS of these night pictures in 6 years, 3 tips, since all of those are out of focus due to the auto-focus feature:

- you probably did already, but make sure you use a tripod on the camera

- set focus to manual, and set the focus ring at infinity.

- use the 2 (or 3) second timer. That way, when you press the shutter to take the picture, even if you move the camera, the 2-3 second delay will steady the camera/tripod to give you a nicer "steady" setup.

Will


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## Mettee (Oct 16, 2010)

Thanks Will. I did have it set to manual, but I have no idea how to set focus to infinity. I had it on a tripod, but like you said I was clicking the shutter button. I could not find the timer function  

I did try and line the camera up days before to practice, that just didnt happen. I have another go at it.


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## jellydonut (Oct 16, 2010)

one2tim said:


> ouch the smo with 1909 picture almost looks like medium output setting compared to the stock 1909


You didn't notice that the trees in the distance are lit up more then? The whole point of the smooth reflector is to increase throw, and even though the pics are blurry it seems to have worked pretty well.


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## wquiles (Oct 16, 2010)

Mettee said:


> Thanks Will. I did have it set to manual, but I have no idea how to set focus to infinity.



When you had the Canon set to manual, 99% of the time that is only for the exposure - so "you" determine the aperture of the lens, and more importantly the time of the exposure.

But the manual focus is a completely and independent setting in the Canon. Even if you set the exposure to manual, your Canon continues to try to do auto-focus 100% of the time, which at night, with very distant targets (like you are attempting to do) is simply asking too much of the camera.

Please review the manual on your camera and find out how to turn off the auto-focus feature, so that you can leave the lens in full manual focus, and then manually set it to infinity - you will see the dramatic improvement in your pictures as the focus will be spot-on perfect. And in your case, with a Canon system, the manual focus might be a simple sliding switch on the lens itself.

If you can't find the timer function (should be in the manual as well), just practice to be "extremely" gentle with the shutter button, as in these multi-second exposures any small shake/movement translates into out-of-focus pictures.

And don't feel bad - any new camera has its own "tricks" to master, and today's digital cameras have so many freaking features that too often it is hard to find the simplest of features. Don't give up, and play/try new things - in no time you will be taking these night beamshots perfectly 

Will


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## Mettee (Oct 16, 2010)

wquiles said:


> When you had the Canon set to manual, 99% of the time that is only for the exposure - so "you" determine the aperture of the lens, and more importantly the time of the exposure.
> 
> But the manual focus is a completely and independent setting in the Canon. Even if you set the exposure to manual, your Canon continues to try to do auto-focus 100% of the time, which at night, with very distant targets (like you are attempting to do) is simply asking too much of the camera.
> 
> ...


 
A man with experience right there. That is pretty much what I ran up against. I was able to find the AF/MF switch, but was unable to set focus to infinity. There is a dual focus setting, which is used in sports photography but I could not figure that out either.

But in any case, a buddy of mine is going to help with new shots...so I wont be behind the camera this time He made the same recomendations as you Will so thank you.


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## JetskiMark (Oct 16, 2010)

Thank you for the beam shots.

One more photo tip. If the lens you're using is image stabilized, turn off the I.S. when using a tripod.

Here is an explanation.


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## Mettee (Oct 17, 2010)

7:00pm to 11:45pm taking beam shots and none turned out right. I would have to photo shop them from the RAW image and I want to avoid that. I took one shot with my TX5 after and it turned out perfect. Just like the one I took previously in the thread next to the canal.

So I am going to simplify it, and use that camera(TX5) because it just works. 

Thanks Will and Alan for the suggestions. Maybe someday I will try again with a fancy camera. Alan I am still going to get you the lens info, I will be in touch.

But hands down, the beam from this SMO reflector out throws the stock, with a brighter larger hot spot, and usable spill.

Surface coating is still going strong after quite a beating from the 1909 and 1185. Light was to the point I could almost not hold it....more to come.


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

simple, easy, and safe to use on the bezel...AND 3/8 drive.


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## alantch (Oct 19, 2010)

Nice one! Is it made of black delrin?


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

Fiber/glass reinforced I think....yeah.


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

Dont ask me how I did this I have no idea






Order:

Control
1185 SMO
1185 STK
1909 SMO
1909 STK


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## UnderTheWeepingMoon (Oct 19, 2010)

Very impressive. That's even more of an improvement than I expected.


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## Steve in SoCal (Oct 19, 2010)

Very nice:devil:


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## jellydonut (Oct 19, 2010)

This has made me want to assemble a fun M6 build.

Mettee - I'm down for either one or two reflectors depending on the price, plus one of the neat bezel keys.


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## bigchelis (Oct 19, 2010)

A picture is worth a thousand words

Wow, it looks like the beam not only throws more but sends a way more narrow beam down-range.

Congrats,
bigC


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

Thanks guys, cant take all the credit as there are other parties involved. I have used many types of reflectors. But the first time I saw these at work, I wondered why they were not in the CPF eye, and thought they needed to be NOW. So I pushed for them 

Big C, you are right the beam does have AWESOME control. BUT, its not so stinkin tight that it cant light up the entire object. Other throwy reflectors I have dont even compare. It also still works very well for up close under your feet with the spill it produces. Its real world usable.

I have tested to distances of well over 200 yards, as you have seen it does the job. Myself and another member have done this testing together, aside from the first shots I took next to the canal. The farthest we have both seen was at Freestone park here in Gilbert AZ, and it was well over 200 yards and performing well. I wish I could bring you all out and show you 

Thanks again for the kind words


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

Some of the lower power bulbs







Order:

Control
EO-M3T SMO
EO-M3T STK
MN21 SMO
MN21 STK
MN20 SMO I think it was on MED setting 
MN20 STK


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## jellydonut (Oct 19, 2010)

Any ballpark price?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 19, 2010)

I'll only be using the WA 1185 (and maybe 1909 at times) and that pencil throw beam looks great!


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

jellydonut said:


> Any ballpark price?



Looking like $65 for the reflector

Bezel tool is going to be $17-18

Still working on the silicon, there is a minimum order and I am guessing I would need about 20 people who wanted it for sure before I could order...and that is going to be about $4-5 add. 

I kinda feel like some explanation' is due for the reflector. The reflector is two parts, and they consist of a CNC machined "mount" and the actual "electroformed reflector". Then the two are then bonded. This allows the best possible fit and performance, while retaining durability. Its a little more costly, but performance is top notch as you can see.

The bezel tool will be made from Acetron, fiber reinforced Delrin. The material itself has qualities that make it perfect for this use. It is strong enough to remove the bezel while not deforming and ruining the tool, and safe enough not to damage the HA finish. 

As far as the silicon I feel its important, some may not for whatever reason. Foam doesnt last forever, the silicon should unless you melt it some how with 600 degree plus heat . I figure for $5 bucks its a no brainer and it adds to the durability of the M6 while running 1909, WA 1185, etc.


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## UnderTheWeepingMoon (Oct 19, 2010)

Is silicon a requirement for the new reflector, or can it still be used with the old foam?


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

UnderTheWeepingMoon said:


> Is silicon a requirement for the new reflector, or can it still be used with the old foam?



NOT a requirement. But I suggest it, the more people that want it the cheaper it will be. I am just trying to be able to make it an option, not trying to make it into a money maker.

If you use after market hotter bulbs, I am going to make an educated AZ heat guess and say your foam will go bad. If you are opening the head, its a good time to replace it. If you just use your M6 as more of a toy or collectible you may be fine.


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## Justin Case (Oct 19, 2010)

Performance, quality, and pricing look excellent.


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## Mettee (Oct 19, 2010)

Roger that 

Not bad for a "BSr" huh?(inside joke)


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## UnderTheWeepingMoon (Oct 20, 2010)

Mettee said:


> NOT a requirement. But I suggest it, the more people that want it the cheaper it will be. I am just trying to be able to make it an option, not trying to make it into a money maker.



I'm sorry if my post gave the suggestion of the silicon being a money maker. That wasn't my intention and I think that $5 sounds fair given the work you've done in sourcing, testing and fitting the silicon. I was simply wondering about the compatibility of the new reflector with the existing foam and trying to picture how everything would fit together.

I'm currently using a Lumens Factory HO-M3T powered by a PhD-M6 and am not planning to step up to an 1185 or FM1909, so the silicon might be a little overkill for my needs.


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## Mettee (Oct 20, 2010)

Dont worry about it at all buddy, I was also trying to make sure I came across in a way that didnt seem like I was trying to force something on everyone 

My only thinking is that the foam will fail, to replace it while you are in the head with a superior material you never have to worry about. If it does fail and you have to take it back apart to replace it, then you run the risk of hitting or damaging the reflector...that would not be good.

Kinda like replacing the water pump at the same time you do a timing belt, $60 now, can save you from having to do another $300 plus job. I would not consider the silicon overkill, just preventative to any future problems and piece of mind.

I just cooked my M6, two full battery cycles through it straight no stop, I was worried about the batteries being too hot.... Reflector, still going strong!


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## jellydonut (Oct 20, 2010)

I'll be in for two reflectors, one bezel tool and four pieces of the silicon so I have spares for future KT4 purchases etc.


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## Brian321 (Oct 20, 2010)

I'll take one...in a green light


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## Mettee (Oct 20, 2010)

Working out the last few details and improvements, should have some ready for you all shortly. :rock:


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## Mettee (Oct 20, 2010)

Brian321 said:


> I'll take one...in a green light



You have my email Sir :wave:


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## Mettee (Oct 22, 2010)

Those of you that have posted interest in these want to be on a list for the first batch? Or do you want it first come first served? 

If you have interest and you want to be in on the first batch please let me know, I will either keep track here or in private.

drew


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## jellydonut (Oct 22, 2010)

Well.. That's kinda why I yelled out in the first place. :devil:

I surely want to be on a list!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Oct 22, 2010)

Mettee said:


> Those of you that have posted interest in these want to be on a list for the first batch? Or do you want it first come first served?
> 
> If you have interest and you want to be in on the first batch please let me know, I will either keep track here or in private.
> 
> drew



Drew - it's kinda your choice which way you want to go. It is your product. 

My personal preference of course is to put me on the list for one.


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## Mettee (Oct 22, 2010)

You are on it! Added list to second post including the animated GIFs.


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## alantch (Oct 22, 2010)

Mettee, put me down for 1 please. Thanks.


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## cryhavok (Oct 23, 2010)

I'll reiterate my interest in both the head and the bezel removal tool :wave:


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## hron61 (Oct 23, 2010)

hi, ive been following this thread for the duration and i hope to make the first batch for one smo reflector and one bezel removal tool. when do you want payment and when are you gonna actually start sending them out? 
thanks.


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## Mettee (Oct 23, 2010)

I will add you two...

There is not an exact date, but I am going to guess in the next week or two they will be ready....if not sooner. I will update here when I know a more exact date.

man its bed time


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## Jimed315 (Oct 23, 2010)

Would these fit in a KT2 head?


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## hron61 (Oct 23, 2010)

Mettee said:


> I will add you two...
> 
> There is not an exact date, but I am going to guess in the next week or two they will be ready....if not sooner. I will update here when I know a more exact date.
> 
> man its bed time


 

:thumbsup:


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## wquiles (Oct 23, 2010)

Mettee said:


> Those of you that have posted interest in these want to be on a list for the first batch? Or do you want it first come first served?
> 
> If you have interest and you want to be in on the first batch please let me know, I will either keep track here or in private.
> 
> drew



I feel it would be best if you open a new thread in the Custom & Modified Flashlights - Buy/Sell/Trade sub-forum

You can then keep a list for your first batch, and share the final price/options, so that we can formally sign up. This should then give you an idea of how many you might want to make.

I definitely want to buy at least one reflector (very likely 2 of them), silicon/foam, and one removal tool.

Will


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## Mettee (Oct 23, 2010)

KT2, I dont think the reflector is removable in the KT2. But if it is then this will likely fit. I will check for you, I think someone covered it in the previous thread in the incan section.

I plan on the sale thread in the BST forum once I have a final date. I agree I will keep track of interest there as well. I just dont want to get ahead of myself or miss something. 

Thanks for the support everyone...I am excited to hear your feedback once you all try it :thumbsup:

I will add you to the list Will.


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## Mettee (Oct 29, 2010)

These will not work in the KT1 or KT2 turbo heads. 

I just returned from vacation where I was fortunately able to visit the shop where these reflectors are made. The production was top notch and these guys are just so stinkin knowledgable it was impressive. Wish I had more time to spend there. I am excited to get these in peoples hands and that should be happening soon. They are being produced now so please be patient.


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## jellydonut (Oct 29, 2010)

Excellent. I have now, as is my custom, stumbled into the well so to speak. Starting out lightly with a used M6 I now decided on a PhD-M6 and a gaggle of bulbs.

Your reflector, the nudge that plunged me down the well:devil:, is now the only missing puzzle piece. Except maybe a McClicky. Undecided.

Awaiting these babies patiently.. Well as patiently as I can


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## HotWire (Mar 13, 2011)

If you are still making a list put me on it!:devil: I'd like a reflector, tool, and silicone. 
Thanks.


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## dm_graham308 (Jan 12, 2012)

Anything new on this???


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## Flea Bag (Jan 16, 2012)

Yes I'd like to know too... If this thread was added to the M6 thread compendium, it would get more attention as it would if it were added to similar references.


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## Mettee (Jan 17, 2012)

Guys these are ready to go, just PM me. I have stock left.

Would ya'll like to see another shoot out, my SMO vs. Bifocal vs. stock???

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-CUSTOM-SMO-REFLECTOR-PACKAGE-FOR-SUREFIRE-M6


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## russthetoolman (Jan 17, 2012)

I would like one with the stock bulb size and a bezel tool if available.
What is the cost with shipping to 98662, west coast, Washington.

Russ


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## Mettee (Jan 24, 2012)

Russ,

Shipped to you will be 70+18+10= $98

Sorry for the late reply Russ.


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## russthetoolman (Jan 24, 2012)

OK, question that I can't find an answer to, though I did read it 
What are the two bulb hole sizes available? I may want the larger one for my XM-L project as the stock size is tight to pass the led through.
And send your paypal addy again as I can't find it, thanks

Russ


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## Mettee (Jan 25, 2012)

Russ, 

The stock size is the largest I have, the other one that is smaller is there to optimize the reflector surface area behind the bulb. The purpose is to gather as much of the light and send it forward. I have the smaller size on my personal light and I use the 1909 in it as well as the 1185.

If you are using an LED tower I would say you have to use the stock bulb opening size.

I will PM paypal info

drew


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## Darien (Feb 7, 2012)

Sent you a PM. I'm interested in a stock size reflector, tool and silicone.


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## hron61 (Jul 20, 2012)

pm inbound.


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