# Xeno E03 (1xAA, 1x14500) - XP-G R5 Neutral White - Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS +



## selfbuilt

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *

_*UPDATE July 20, 2011:* Review updated with results to the currently shipping XM-L version of the E03. Scroll down to the end of the review for a comparison analysis_







*Specifications:*

LED: CREE XP-G R5 (Cool White 1B tint), XP-G R5 (Neutral White 3C tint), or XP-E Q3 (Warm White, 7B tint)
Anodizied Aluminum (Rose Red, Deep Sea Blue, or Ti-Black)
GITD (Glow in the Dark) silicon O-ring and silicon rubber tail cap
Waterproof (10M dunk-resistance)
Double O-rings and Square threads
Battery type: Alkaline, Ni-mh, Ni-cd, Lithium, 14500 Li-ion or Lifepo4
Linear driver — no PWM
3 Modes in this order: Medium, Low, High. (no mode memory)
Unique finger grip
Size and Weight: 96.5mm x 21.5mm. 48g 
Included Accessories: 2 spare O-rings, 1 extra switch, 1 lanyard
Optional Accessories: diffuser tip
Estimated MSRP $28
I don’t normally review “budget” lights, but the Xeno E03 specifications show a lot of potential for the price. Does it live up ito these specs? Scroll on to find out, gentle reader … 









The light comes in a nice presentation style metal case, with black packing foam. Inside, you will find the light, manual, simple wrist strap, extra o-rings and switch. 








From left to right: Duracell AA, Xeno E03, ITP SA1, Klarus ST-10, 4Sevens Quark AA, Nitecore D10, Fenix LD10, Zebralight SC51

*E03:*: Weight: 48.1 g (no battery), Length 96.7mm x Width 21.5mm (bezel)

The overall dimensions are pretty standard for a typical 1xAA light.


















Build of the E03 is remarkably good for the price. Of immediate note, notice the polished aluminum bezel ring, square-cut threads and dual body o-rings. :thumbsup: You also get a GITD switch boot cover and GITD o-ring in the bezel.

In addition, screw threads are anodized for tailcap lock-out. Although not shown, there is a spring soldered on the positive contact plate in the head, so flat-top 14500s will work fine. 

The tailcap switch is a reverse clicky, and has a plastic retaining ring (well, you can’t have everything at this price point ). Switch feel is about typical for a reverse clicky, and the light can tailstand stably. 

Knurling is surprisingly good – this is one of the more aggressive patterns I’ve seen on a made-in-China light, but it doesn’t feel like it would be too rough on clothing. The E03 also features a unique grip feature – finger grip indentations on one side of the battery tube. I found these to be well placed for over-hand operation.

Anodizing was perfect on my sample, no chips or smudges (note the light also comes in blue and red). Lettering is sharp and clear, bright white on the gloss black background.

The diffuser cone is an optional accessory, and doesn't come with the light. It does the intended job well.

My general impression of the build of this light is very positive – it feels like a far more expensive offering. :thumbsup:










The E03 comes in a choice of emitter types, and my review sample is the XP-G R5 Neutral White. This is actually the first R5-output bin Neutral-tint I’ve seen (most are usually R4s). Note that it is a 3C tint bin, so it is not as warm as the typical 4A/B-5A/B “Neutral” white tints. But I personally quite like it – I am not a fan of overly warm tints, and this 3C is just about right in my books.

All lights feature a medium textured orange peel (MOP) reflector

Which brings us to the requisite white wall hunting . All lights are on Hi on Sanyo Eneloop, about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































As you can see, the beam profile of the E03 is reasonably smooth and even. Although not as heavily driven on 1xAA as the Fenix offering, output is quite reasonable for this class (scroll down to my Summary Tables and runtimes for more specifics on output).

_*UPDATE:* Here are some shots without and with the diffuser (f2.7, 1/100sec exposure for both):











Personally, I like this diffuser better than most other wand ones. The flat top gives you a very even beam - a lot of the conical ones tend to still produce some centre throw. Although my preferred diffuser is always a thin flat one over the lens. But note again that the diffuser does not come with the light - it is an optional accessory to be purchased separately._

*User Interface*

The UI is strait-forward. Turn the light on by pressing and releasing the tailcap clicky. Switch modes by soft-pressing.

The mode sequence is Med > Lo > Hi, in repeating order. There is no memory, and the light always comes on in medium. 

And that's it - no blinking modes, no complex interface. It is very reminiscent of some of the basic Fenix and ITP keychain lights.

*PWM and Strobe*

The E03 appears to be current-controlled on its low modes - I could find no evidence of PWM. 

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have recently devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lighbox values to Lumens thread for more info.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

*Effective November 2010, I have revised my summary tables to match with the current ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.sliderule.ca/FL1.htm for a description of the terms used in these tables.*











As you can see, output levels and throw in my testing are very consistent for the class on regular batteries. On 14500, the E03 is a real barn-burner on Hi. oo: 

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*








































Now this is interesting - the output/runtime performance pattern is remarkably similar to the Fenix LD10. oo:

While it is true that max output on regular alkaline/NiMH is not as high as the LD10, the runtime curves look the same. And on Med, the output level and runtime is virtually identical (with a slight advantage to the E03, likely due to the R5 output bin). 

Where the E03 differs is on how it handles 14500. On Med, the E03 is actually identical to the Fenix LD10 on all modes (i.e. direct drive). But on Hi, the E03 is even brighter than the Fenix (!), and on Lo has a reduced output level.

---------------

_*UPDATE March 24, 2011:* For those of you who have asked, here is how the E03 compares on standard batteries, 14500, and the new primary lithium Titanium Innovations 3V 14505. Note that these are not ANSI FL-1 lumen estimates, but initial values upon activation._






---------------- 

*Potential Issues*

The light lacks true low modes on 14500. Max output on 14500 also seems unusually high.

Light uses a simple UI, with no memory and a Med > Lo > Hi sequence.

Screw threads are square-cut, but at coarser level than typical (i.e. relatively few threads, spaced further apart than typical).

*Preliminary Observations*

I will come right to point - for $28, I think this light is a steal. I have seen lights twice this price that don't match the build quality or output/runtime characteristics of the Xeno E03. :thumbsup:

Frankly, this light gets it right on just about every measure. The build is outstandingly good for the price. Not just a knock-off, the E03 has some nice specific features (e.g. very good knurling, built-in finger wells, GITD accessories, etc.).

Having the choice of emitter is also great. As previously mentioned, this is the first XP-G R5 Neutral White I've seen (most are R4s). I personally really like the tint on my sample - it uses a 3C tint bin, so it's not quite as warm as the more common 4/5 tint bin Neutrals. But you can also get it in XP-G R5 Cool White (1B) or XP-E Q3 Warm White (7B).

The circuit performance was a very pleasant surprise for the price - on standard batteries, you basically get Fenix current-controlled efficiency, and at generally comparable output levels. :twothumbs And extra bonus - on 14500, you get to keep defined output levels on the E03, albeit at much brighter levels. In contrast, on the Fenix you loose all defined levels on 14500. 

I wish more multi-level lights would use this method of output level control (i.e. preferred over the less efficient PWM). Of course, you need to expect some minor tint shifting over the output levels with current-control.

The interface is one area that seems somewhat basic compared to all the other advanced features of the light. Although Med > Lo > Hi is common on consumer-oriented lights, I would personally prefer Lo > Med > Hi with a memory mode. But that wouldn't stop me from recommending this light for the general user. 

I was originally reticent to accept this light for review, given the "budget" price point. But the E03 certainly proves you can't judge a light by its price. Still, availability and consistency over time (and over multiple batches) can be concerns with lights in the budget class. However, for right now, I consider this current build to be an outstanding value as a general purpose light. :wave:

_*UPDATE May 30, 2011:* Xeno has recently upgraded the E03 line to now include Cree XM-L emitters. Although I haven't directly tested the new versions, you should reasonably expect greater output for equivalent runtime on Max with the XM-L, especially on 14500 Li-ion/14505 lithium. However, due to the floodier beam of the XM-L, this may not appear too noticeable at a distance (i.e. will be more noticeable at close/confined distances - where you are frankly unlikely to be using Max). Lower levels are likely to be the same efficiency as the XP-G emitter. I don't know whether output at Lo/Med are increased compared the XP-G versions, but the difference isn't likely to be huge, in either output or runtime (but will again be less throwy on the XM-L). As such, I would recommend you choose between the XM-L and XP-G versions on the basis on the beam pattern (i.e. flood vs throw, respectively)._

-----

*UPDATE July 20, 2011:* _I have just tested a XM-L-based E03 (Neutral T6), comparison results below:_

Original E03 is the XP-G Neutral R5 version.












































































In summary, the new XM-L version has a broader and less defined hotspot, making the light seem "floodier" (i.e. less throw). 

On standard batteries, max output has increased somewhat (for equivalent runtime), but you may not notice the difference given the floodier beam. At lower levels, output and runtime are equvalent between the XP-G and XM-L versions.

On 14500, output has increased at ALL levels. The Hi level is now insanely bright, and not something I would recommend running the light at (i.e. heat will be an issue, potentially damaging the light or the battery). The Med level on the XM-L is now slightly brighter than the Hi of the original XP-G version,  and the Lo on the XM-L is slightly brighter than the Lo of XP-G verison (with again equvalent runtime). So, basically, you gain a very temporary "burst" Hi mode on this new XL-L version, but loose the old Med mode.

Hope that helps!

:wave:

----

Xeno E03 (XP-G Neutral) supplied by TacticalHID for review. E03 XM-L Neutral loaned from eala.


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## njet212

It would be great if in the future Xeno in make improved version for Xeno 03 with clip !!


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *GunnarGG* on 02-11-2011 03:32 PM GMT
> 
> Thank you for the review, Selfbuilt!
> 
> I'm glad to see that they offer the same model with different tints, it would be great if we saw more of that.
> 
> In a light like this I think it's good with only 3 (or 4) levels and no blinking.
> 
> I have before said that I prefer low-med-high but my ITP A3 and LD01 is med-low-high and I do think it's pretty good. Mostly I use medium and in case I need low I just cover the front and do an extra twist.
> 
> This is the same but clicky. I have to try it. Could also be a good light to give to non flashaholics.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *DaveG* on 02-11-2011 06:18 PM GMT
> 
> Nice review as always,thanks for your work.That light looks very good to me.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *Lighthearted1* on 02-11-2011 06:43 PM GMT
> 
> +1 another thank you Selfbuilt.
> 
> I bought the neutral tint and use the 14500 protected cell. It is nice to see those graphs, and have run times.
> 
> I agree with the high quality for the price. Where can you get a neutral AA light for $28, + 4.2V capable?
> 
> Great gift with a L91 cell, or the new 3V Titanium Innovations primaries. Great tint!


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *jasonck08* on 02-11-2011 08:17 PM GMT
> 
> Very well done review as always, Selfbuilt!


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *nathan225* on 02-11-2011 08:20 PM GMT
> 
> great review


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *bodhran* on 02-12-2011 12:10 AM GMT
> 
> I was glad to see your review of this light. Very good as always. Out of curiosity, I picked one up when the first came out. What got my attention was the choice of tints. Yes....I'm one of those warm tint fans. Mine is a nice yellow, as compared to the orange/peach tint of my 4sevens lights. I finally broke down and ordered a couple 14500 cells but as your review shows, this isn't a bad light at all on primaries.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *Flying Turtle* on 02-12-2011 08:04 AM GMT
> 
> The warm tint option makes this very tempting, though I would prefer a more orange than yellow shade. Thanks for pointing out this sleeper, selfbuilt. As usual, an excellent review.
> 
> Geoff


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *Phaserburn* on 02-12-2011 03:20 PM GMT
> 
> Nice! Will you be reviewing the Xeno G42 or G10?


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## selfbuilt

Phaserburn said:


> Originally Posted by *Phaserburn*Nice! Will you be reviewing the Xeno G42 or G10?


Dunno, they haven't suggested any other models so far. Time will tell ... but I certainly have enough other lights to keep me busy. Excpect to see a few Sunwayman, Nitecore and Thrunite reviews coming soon. Dunno, they haven't suggested any other models so far. Time will tell ... but I certainly have enough other lights to keep me busy. Excpect to see a few Sunwayman, Nitecore and Thrunite reviews coming soon.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *Cemoi* on 02-14-2011 10:46 AM GMT
> 
> Thanks Selfbuilt for one more excellent review.
> 
> Where can you buy Xeno lights?


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *weez82* on 02-14-2011 11:30 AM GMT
> 
> Thanks for the review (and thanks for your other reviews). This light is now on my to get list
> 
> 
> 
> Cemoi said:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cemoi*
> Thanks Selfbuilt for one more excellent review.
> 
> Where can you buy Xeno lights?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sho...utral-and-Cool)
Click to expand...


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *Phaserburn* on 02-14-2011 04:57 PM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> selfbuilt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *selfbuilt*
> Dunno, they haven't suggested any other models so far. Time will tell ... but I certainly have enough other lights to keep me busy. Excpect to see a few Sunwayman, Nitecore and Thrunite reviews coming soon.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. Ok, thanks! Nice. Ok, thanks!
Click to expand...


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *bodhran* on 02-18-2011 01:11 PM GMT
> 
> I recieved the 14500 batteries I had ordered for the E03. As mentioned before, I have the warm version. It does very well on Eneloops and on 14500 cells, it's very bright. What is nice is that you can switch between cells, depending on your lighting needs, and in a pinch you can easily find AA's anywhere. For a budget light, this is a beauty IMO.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *surprise!* on 02-18-2011 01:13 PM GMT
> 
> Thanks for this excellent review on a nice and frankly surprising light!
> 
> Selfbuilt, did you get the impression running continuously on high with 14500 cells is "safe"?  The light has to dissipate about 5 watt of heat power: 3,7V * 0,75Ah / 0,5h (and about 80%-90% of this is heat, the rest is light).
> 
> This light is very nice as gift to non(not yet?)-flashaholics! :thumbsup: And the barn-burning capabilities on 14500 are really tempting for me to try this cell size - currently I only have AAA/AA Eneloops for EDC lights and 18650 for the bigger ones.
> 
> The only thing missing for me is a deep carry pocket clip - i even "upgraded" my Preon ReVO with the clip from an ITP A3 Titanium...


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## selfbuilt

surprise! said:


> Originally Posted by *surprise!*
> Selfbuilt, did you get the impression running continuously on high with 14500 cells is "safe"?  The light has to dissipate about 5 watt of heat energy: 3,7V * 0,75Ah / 0,5h (and about 80%-90% of this is heat, the rest is light).


That is an excellent question. Personally, I worry about small lights driven this hard, for just that reason. There's also the (theoretical?) risk of thermal runaway for the emitter. That is an excellent question. Personally, I worry about small lights driven this hard, for just that reason. There's also the (theoretical?) risk of thermal runaway for the emitter.

It is really hard to say what is "safe". But I would share your concerns about running this light on Hi on 14500.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *surprise!* on 02-18-2011 02:01 PM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> selfbuilt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *selfbuilt*
> It is really hard to say what is "safe". But I would share your concerns about running this light on Hi on 14500.
> 
> 
> 
> It should be possible as manufacturer to measure the temperature directly at the LED while running on high - to make this realistic the sensor and it's wires to the outside of the light would have to be placed so that the heat dissipation is not altered. It should be possible as manufacturer to measure the temperature directly at the LED while running on high - to make this realistic the sensor and it's wires to the outside of the light would have to be placed so that the heat dissipation is not altered.
> 
> I don't think this is possible without drilling some holes into the flashlight and filling them up before measuring - removing the lens would change the heat dissipation capability.
> 
> Even nicer would be a permanent temperature sensor like in processors to "throttle" output when the flashlight (emitter or circuit) would otherwise overheat - the 4Sevens Maelstrom S12 and the Jetbeam RRT3 have that feature
Click to expand...


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## selfbuilt

> *Re: Xeno E03 (1xAA, 1x14500) - XP-G R5 Neutral White - Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS +*
> Written by *bodhran* on 02-19-2011 09:23 PM GMT
> 
> Is there any chance of getting a beam shot with the diffuser?


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *chenko* on 02-20-2011 08:38 AM GMT
> 
> Cool review as always Selfbuilt!! Thanks a lot.
> 
> Wow, I badly need I couple of those E03! Anybody here knows where to purchase black ones in neutral and warm tints?


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## selfbuilt

bodhran said:


> Originally Posted by *bodhran*
> Is there any chance of getting a beam shot with the diffuser?


Here you go - f2.7, 1/100sec exposure for both (no diffuser first, diffuser second) Here you go - f2.7, 1/100sec exposure for both (no diffuser first, diffuser second)












Personally, I like this diffuser better than most other wand ones. The flat top gives you a very even beam - a lot of the conical ones tend to still produce some centre throw. Although my preferred diffuser is always a thin flat one over the lens.

Note again the diffuser does not come with the light - it is an optional accessory to be purchased separately.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *texas cop* on 02-21-2011 10:58 AM GMT
> 
> Thanks for the well done review, again. Your hard work and excellent charts are the ones getting me into better lights with no hit/miss guessing games. This light is a soon to buy for myself.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *MichaelW* on 02-21-2011 08:17 PM GMT
> 
> I would love to see how it handles the 3 volt primary cell, 14505.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *MichaelW* on 02-22-2011 12:27 PM GMT
> 
> I bet that xp-e warm-white would die a quick death with 14500 Li-on.


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## selfbuilt

> Written by *BigBluefish* on Yesterday 04:21 PM GMT
> 
> Thanks for another fine review, selfbuilt. Except, now I want to buy a couple of these! It seems a very well made light for it's price-point. I guess we'll just have to see how reliable they are after some use. I think a neutral xpg and a warm xpe are in my future.


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## selfbuilt

The main review post has been updated with the final review text.

The thread discussions have been *fully restored* from the search engine cache data (thank you tandem!).

Please carry on!


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## bodhran

Just go off work and was pleased to see things were up and running again. I'm running mine of the 14500 battery now and the diffuser is great. Thinking now about buying a couple for family, though running on AA's. by the way...I didn't see the Tk35 review. Hope it wasn't lost..*eg*


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## selfbuilt

bodhran said:


> by the way...I didn't see the Tk35 review. Hope it wasn't lost..*eg*


Well, I haven't done one yet.  I do have a TK35 on hand for testing, so hope to be able to get to it soon. I have a couple of other reviews that have to get done first. 

I'm hoping the restoration of my threads should be complete by end of day tomorrow, so will get back to posting new content then. :wave:


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## mhelskie

great review selfbuilt, hopefully me and my buddy can get a hold of this light next month(might order next week).


nice to see CPF working again! Cheers! :wave:


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## GunnarGG

Selfbuilt, thanks again for the nice review and also for now restoring the responses lost in the crash.
I did buy two of these lights. One red and one black. Both neutral white.
The red one is still in the box, I think this will be a gift.
I have used the black one for I think 2 weeks now and like it. It has been used indoors and walking the dog.
Low and medium has been used mostly, it's pretty bright on high. It has a nice, rather floody beam.
Compared side by side to other lights mine is slightly green in the tint but I can absolutely not see that if I use it by itself.
When held in cigar grip the index finger finds its place nicely in the fingerwell closest to the tail, so that's my prefered grip. 
Easy to use, nothing to worry about if gifted to a non flashaholic!


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## selfbuilt

> Written by MichaelW on 02-21-2011 08:17 PM GMT
> 
> I would love to see how it handles the 3 volt primary cell, 14505.


Below is a table showing INITIAL output in estimated lumens from my lightbox, on various battery sources:






As you might expect, the TI 3V 14505 primary lithium cells perform intermediate to the other approved battery sources.

As an aside, these new AA-shaped primary lithium cells are designed for lights where the same circuit is used in the 1xAA and 1xCR123A models. That way, you can predict their output by looking at how the CR123A runs. 

In AA-sized lights where there is no 1xCR123A data to compare to - yet 3.7V Li-ion is officially supported - you would expect intermediate output levels, as shown here. But you are also taking a calculated risk in using a battery source that has not been officially approved by the light manufacturer.


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## Kyle K

Thanks, Selfbuilt! I bought this light in neutral white based on your great review and I really like it. I also ordered some Titanium 14505's to try.

Kyle


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## GunnarGG

May I add some more observations during the last days.

I did drop it today, it got a little scratched on the alu bezel ring but that protected against chipping of the HA. I have some other lights that didn't have that protection...

The small LED on my computermouse turned red telling me the batteries was low, 2 IKEA alkaline.
I put one of the batteries in the Xeno E03 and the hi didn't work, it was about the same brightness as med, maybe these were dimmer than med with fresh batteries.
Well, I put the light in low mode and it has run for almost 1,5 hours, still running.
I think it can be good to know how for how long you can get some light after you have gotten an indication that your battery is getting low.


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## Lighthouse one

I bought 2 lights based on your review, and I am very satisfied with these lights. THe diffuser is excellent. Spend the extra bucks for one- you won't be sorry.


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## geckoblink

I just wanted to say that I've been using a Fenix LD10 clip with my Xeno and It's worked out well so far. There isn't a perfect place to seat the clip, but below the tail cap works relatively well. There is very little play and the LD10 clips is very stiff.


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## rickypanecatyl

I've been looking for a while for a colored AA light as my little girl really, really wants her own flashlight like Daddy! I ordered 2 of them, hid one and gave her the other one. She was so excited as I was when I found out about them.

She dropped it from about 2' and it broke. I tried the other lights tail cap but that wasn't it. At that point I realized wow - this thing is pretty locked up. Not much you can do except take the tail cap off. My girl was broken hearted that Daddy's special present for her broke so fast. I couldn't get it going and my wife wanted to try dropping it. She dropped it and it worked - intermitently for a few days! I just gave her the other one and she was thrilled. I was sure it was a fluke. She has it tied with a lanyard around her beltloop and riding her bike it must have swung into her handlebars or something and now the 2nd one doesn't work. Sorry to be so frank, but


*this light is a total piece of crap!!!*


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## jasonck08

rickypanecatyl said:


> I've been looking for a while for a colored AA light as my little girl really, really wants her own flashlight like Daddy! I ordered 2 of them, hid one and gave her the other one. She was so excited as I was when I found out about them.
> 
> She dropped it from about 2' and it broke. I tried the other lights tail cap but that wasn't it. At that point I realized wow - this thing is pretty locked up. Not much you can do except take the tail cap off. My girl was broken hearted that Daddy's special present for her broke so fast. I couldn't get it going and my wife wanted to try dropping it. She dropped it and it worked - intermitently for a few days! I just gave her the other one and she was thrilled. I was sure it was a fluke. She has it tied with a lanyard around her beltloop and riding her bike it must have swung into her handlebars or something and now the 2nd one doesn't work. Sorry to be so frank, but
> 
> 
> *this light is a total piece of crap!!!*



The LED supplier screwed up with the reflow solder job on a few of these lights. Xeno does not reflow solder the XP-G's onto the MPCB, but they should have caught it.

All the LED's in the new batch were properly reflowed, and I've literally done about 200-300 drops on a couple dozen of these lights from 3ft without a failure in the latest batch.

Instead of flaming on the forum, couldn't you just try to contact me so I can resolve the issue? I'll pay for shipping both ways. It's as simple as replacing the light engine (which I will do for you) then ship them back, and you'll never have this issue again.

Here is a link to a test that Xeno did with the latest batch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZrH2ALjNrE&feature=player_profilepage

Email me at: admin (at) tacticalhid (dot) info


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## rickypanecatyl

jasonck08 said:


> Instead of flaming on the forum, couldn't you just try to contact me so I can resolve the issue? I'll pay for shipping both ways. It's as simple as replacing the light engine (which I will do for you) then ship them back, and you'll never have this issue again.


 
Jason thanks for the kind offer! You are right - I should've contacted you first - sorry for the rant! 

As I don't have a lot of confidence in the Malaysian postal system and one of the lights is working intermitantly I think I'll hang on to that one and send in the one that doesn't work at all.

I got the warm tints by the way and they are amazing compared to the typical cooler tints how they bring out color and help with depth perception. They look almost just like an incandescent w/ the efficiency of LED.


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## jasonck08

Hey Ricky, why don't you send me an email and I'll send you some basic instructions for removing the light engine. Then you can just mail that part back.


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## cave dave

Got my two a couple days ago and overall I am really pleased. They seem like a great light for the money. I got a Warm and a Neutral. I think these will make Gift lights, although they would be better with L-M-H sequence.

Some additional comments:
- Knurling is the most aggressive I have seen. A bit too aggressive in my opinion. I would prefer it wasn't so sharp.
- I also would prefer it was Low - Med - High with no memory. There was a poll on CPF about sequence preference and the vast majority preferred L-M-H, with H-M-L in distant 2nd and hardly anybody preferring the "non-sequential" sequences.
- Neutral Tint is a bit cooler than my Neutral Quarks but warmer than my Neutral Rominsen and S-Mini.
- Threads came unlubed. A bit of lube makes it much smoother to replace the tailcap at battery changes.
- I would prefer the Lens retaining ring was stainless steel for better durability.
- I dropped one of the lights on carpet from about 3 feet with no ill effects.
- Low (called ultra-low in paperwork) is rated for 10 lm. Since it is about half the brightness in a bounce as a Fenix E01 I would say it is more like 5lm.
- Glow button lasted a lot longer than expected. I figured this was a gimmick but it was still visible at 5am after getting charged up at 1030pm when I went to sleep.

Issues:
Right off the bat I had to do some minor surgery because one of the lights had two tailsprings twisted together under the retainer. I thought I could just leave it as is but the extra force actually dented the back of an eneloop battery. Trying to untwist the springs was like one of those metal challenge puzzles but in miniature. I took me 20 min to figure it out. This should have been caught by the assembler or the QC person.


----------



## Dooner51

I would just like to thank you for all the hard work that you put into your reviews. I'm new here and have learned a great deal from your reviews. Its great to read information instead of opinion. Thanks again.


----------



## EngrPaul

I found the two grooves strangely located, seems like those sort of features should be near the head for increased thermal transfer to the atmosphere. The good thing is there is not a separate head and body, so the heat can travel directly down the tube and be dissipated by the entire body, not just the head.

I found a good use for the grooves. 5/8" GITD O-rings drop right in and sit flush with the body.







Even the flashlight approves!


----------



## selfbuilt

FYI, Xeno has upgraded the E03 line to now include Cree XM-L emitters.

Although I haven't directly tested the new XM-L version, my experience of XM-L vs XP-G lights to date lets me draw a couple of tentative conclusions:

First. you should reasonably expect greater output for equivalent runtime on Max with the XM-L, especially on 14500 Li-ion/14505 lithium. However, due to the floodier beam of the XM-L, this may not appear too noticeable at a distance (i.e. will be more noticeable at close/confined distances - where you are frankly unlikely to be using Max).

Lower levels are likely to be the same efficiency as the XP-G emitter. I don't know whether output will be increased compared the XP-G version, but the difference isn't likely to be huge, in either output or runtime (but will again be less throwy on the XM-L).

Although hard to say more without directly testing both, I would recommend you choose between the XM-L and XP-G versions on the basis on the beam pattern (i.e. flood vs throw, respectively).


----------



## AlexLED

Thanks, once again, great review !

Sorry if this has been asked already, does this light have a reverse polarity protection ??


----------



## selfbuilt

AlexLED said:


> Sorry if this has been asked already, does this light have a reverse polarity protection ??


Not that I know of. Note that there is a spring on the positive contact plate in the head, to allow use of flat top cells - so there is certainly no physical reverse polarity protection. Would have to check with the dealer to see if they know about any circuit feature.


----------



## Animalmother

What's the OTF on Eneloops with this? Anyone know? I am thinking about getting one.


----------



## silverglow

Animalmother said:


> What's the OTF on Eneloops with this? Anyone know? I am thinking about getting one.


 
In my E03 V2 XM-L (I have the warm white version) manual it says the following (for the *Cool White* version):

Using NiMH battery: Low (150 mA - 45 lms - 4 hrs), Ultra Low (20 mA - 20 lms - 20 hrs), High (350 mA - 120 lms - 1 hr)
Using Li-ion battery: Low (1A - 280 lms - 45min), Ultra Low (300 mA - 80 lms - 2.5hrs), High (1.5 A - 430 lms - 20 Min.)


----------



## thedeske

EngrPaul said:


> I found the two grooves strangely located, seems like those sort of features should be near the head for increased thermal transfer to the atmosphere. The good thing is there is not a separate head and body, so the heat can travel directly down the tube and be dissipated by the entire body, not just the head.
> 
> I found a good use for the grooves. 5/8" GITD O-rings drop right in and sit flush with the body.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even the flashlight approves!


 

Great Idea - Love the Black/Purple Blue set. Very tempting.


----------



## Tuikku

Nice review, thanks! Not too much discussion on this light here!

Seems like this is quite a bargain, if you are searching a 14500-capable somewhat powerful EDC.
Maybe manufacturer will make those low-modes better for next editions. I´m sure many will skip this because of that


----------



## Alfred143

Greetings,

I've been trying to read everything about he amazing Xeno 03 xm-l.

So far it looks and sounds amazing. But , I wanted to ask all your professional opinions on how it will compare to my fenix e21.

I don't have any experiences with any other led flashlights, as this is my first expensive light I own. Ive only had it or a week and find myself playing with it everyday. So I think I'll have a blast with the Xeno.

On paper I looks to be much more powerful (with 14500s) than my fenix e21, but will I be blown away in person? 

Thanks for your input  cheers


----------



## Alfred143

Guess I'll find outs, When my new Xeno E03 XML cool white arrives


----------



## silverglow

Alfred143 said:


> Guess I'll find outs, When my new Xeno E03 XML cool white arrives


 
I just saw a new posting in the Xeno E03 sales thread on cpfmarketplace.com where user ernsanada posted three comparative pics of the three levels of a Xeno E03 CW using a Black AW 14500 3.7V 750mAh Battery. I've only used my Xeno E03 WW with Eneloops so far so I haven't been able to help you, but I'm very much looking forward to my ordered 14500s now as the output is really impressive! But look for yourself  :

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...M-AA-14500-Pocket-Rocket!-(CW-NW-WW!)/page17&


----------



## Alfred143

silverglow said:


> I just saw a new posting in the Xeno E03 sales thread on cpfmarketplace.com where user ernsanada posted three comparative pics of the three levels of a Xeno E03 CW using a Black AW 14500 3.7V 750mAh Battery. I've only used my Xeno E03 WW with Eneloops so far so I haven't been able to help you, but I'm very much looking forward to my ordered 14500s now as the output is really impressive! But look for yourself  :
> 
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...M-AA-14500-Pocket-Rocket!-(CW-NW-WW!)/page17&


 
Very nice silverglow! Thank you


----------



## saypat

silverglow said:


> I just saw a new posting in the Xeno E03 sales thread on cpfmarketplace.com where user ernsanada posted three comparative pics of the three levels of a Xeno E03 CW using a Black AW 14500 3.7V 750mAh Battery. I've only used my Xeno E03 WW with Eneloops so far so I haven't been able to help you, but I'm very much looking forward to my ordered 14500s now as the output is really impressive! But look for yourself  :
> 
> Hey Silverglow. How do you like your Xeno running on the Eneloops?
> Let us know how the 14500's work for you. Yes, that pic was very impressive!
> 
> patrick


----------



## cave dave

I use Eneloops exclusively with my 3 E03's, It compares favorably in brightness to other single AA lights on Nimh and all the levels are usable. I use Med (~40-60 lm) the most followed by low (~4lm) and then max the least.

The Xeno E03 on 14500 is great for showing off but the lack of a real low and med are usability killers. Nobody would design a light with those levels on purpose, its more like "hey it didn't blow up so let's sell it as a feature!" Its better than those Fenix where you loose all lower modes, but its not as good as a proper buck driver like on the Quarks.


----------



## silverglow

silverglow said:


> I just saw a new posting in the Xeno E03 sales thread on cpfmarketplace.com where user ernsanada posted three comparative pics of the three levels of a Xeno E03 CW using a Black AW 14500 3.7V 750mAh Battery. I've only used my Xeno E03 WW with Eneloops so far so I haven't been able to help you, but I'm very much looking forward to my ordered 14500s now as the output is really impressive! But look for yourself  :
> 
> Hey Silverglow. How do you like your Xeno running on the Eneloops?
> Let us know how the 14500's work for you. Yes, that pic was very impressive!
> 
> patrick




Hi Patrick,

I haven't been using my E03 (Warm-White) extensively so far, but even on Eneloops I'm already very satisfied with it regarding brightness. For a single AA light, is has respectable output, only my AA Zebralights do better in that regard. But I really like my blue E03 WW for the purplish blue color of its anodization as well as the the very nice warm white tint. overall form and quality is very good, too.

Regarding use with 14500s, I received my very first 14500s only today, a pair of Trustfires. I haven't charged them yet because unfortunately, one of them was already dead with 0.00 Volt resting voltage, only the other one was alright with 3.77 Volt. But after what I read about those xxxfire brands' quality in the past days here on CPF, I'm not even sure I will use them now at all for safety reasons because after I ordered these Trustfires, I luckily found a German seller of Sony 14500s (Li-Mn, unprotected) and I'm expecting the delivery of my order tomorrow. 

I'll post my opinion about this and maybe also do a beamshot of it (if it works out well with my camera) soon though.


----------



## silverglow

cave dave said:


> I use Eneloops exclusively with my 3 E03's, It compares favorably in brightness to other single AA lights on Nimh and all the levels are usable. I use Med (~40-60 lm) the most followed by low (~4lm) and then max the least.
> 
> The Xeno E03 on 14500 is great for showing off but the lack of a real low and med are usability killers. Nobody would design a light with those levels on purpose, its more like "hey it didn't blow up so let's sell it as a feature!" Its better than those Fenix where you loose all lower modes, but its not as good as a proper buck driver like on the Quarks.


 
Yes, performance with Eneloops is already satisfying and the loss of a real low is the biggest weakness of this light on 14500s. I intend to use my E03 primarily with 14500s though on Med and Low for extended runtime and because I think it's nice to have that impressive boost power available and as I carry 4 extra Eneloops with me most of the time, I could still switch to them if necessary. I agree that the E03's body is probably not large enough to handle the heat with 14500s for more than a few minutes without risk of damage to the emitter, but that's enough most of time I think.


----------



## Swedpat

Today I the very first time became aware of this little light. The performance with the new XM-L model makes me the first time to be interested in using 14500 batteries. The options of neutral and warm tints I think is maybe the best thing, however. Also the price is very attractive. Would like to see runtime charts with the XM-L emitter at the three modes.
I am tempted to order a blue, or maybe two of them, would be interesting to see how it performs compared to my Fenix LD10 R5.

Regards, Patric


----------



## selfbuilt

Swedpat said:


> Would like to see runtime charts with the XM-L emitter at the three modes.


FYI, a local CPF member has loaned me a EOS Neutral XM-L for output/runtime testing. I should have the results up by this time next week.


----------



## MojaveMoon07

selfbuilt said:


> FYI, a local CPF member has loaned me a EOS Neutral XM-L for output/runtime testing. I should have the results up by this time next week.




After the conclusion of your evaluation, may I ask if you could post also your impression of the tint ?

*tactical_hid* said _(link)_ that the tint of the Neutral White XM-L is 3C.

Since 3C _(link)_ is around 5000K, I thought that meant that the tint should be pure white which is the case for a 5000K CFL that I have.

But two people commented that their NW XM-L is yellow.

_(link)_ "_My nw xeno e03 xml is yellower thou, but nothing close to an incan._"

_(link)_ "_I have what is supposed to be the Neutral White Zeno, but I can't imaging a light being any warmer than mine is. It is rather nice, I like the warm beam, but it is pretty yellow, far from being neutral white._"

During my limited experience with flashlights, my favorite tint is the tint of our Maglite 2D incandescent. To my eyes, it's not pure white, but it's also not as warm as an incandescent light bulb. So I'm hoping that the Xeno XM-L NW is comparable in tint based on the above two comments.


----------



## recDNA

Regarding the "glow cap", what do you mean by "charged up"?
I know the glowing rings in the head are very bright but only for about 5 minutes.


----------



## saypat

cave dave said:


> I use Eneloops exclusively with my 3 E03's, It compares favorably in brightness to other single AA lights on Nimh and all the levels are usable. I use Med (~40-60 lm) the most followed by low (~4lm) and then max the least.
> 
> The Xeno E03 on 14500 is great for showing off but the lack of a real low and med are usability killers. Nobody would design a light with those levels on purpose, its more like "hey it didn't blow up so let's sell it as a feature!" Its better than those Fenix where you loose all lower modes, but its not as good as a proper buck driver like on the Quarks.



Hi. I will probably receive my light in the mail today. I had no intention of buying this light before reading all these threads. But it soon became sort of addictive. I liked that it is a quality light and seemingly worth more than it's price point. What is the attraction of flashlights to 'us guys?' However, without the ability to use the 14500 battery and achieve super-brite, I doubt if I was a buyer. I was interested in purchasing the Eagleatac P20C2 or the Jetbeam PC25. Now what do I do? And yesterday I found a light for around only $400 with a range of 1000' and shines 2200 lumens. Ha! Maybe I'll just use my lil Xeno and tell myself IT IS ENUF!

patrick -


----------



## selfbuilt

MojaveMoon07 said:


> After the conclusion of your evaluation, may I ask if you could post also your impression of the tint ?


I will post the data next week (off on holidays now), but I can tell you the beam tint is virtually identical to my original XP-G R5 Neutral E03 (i.e. a nice pleasing Neutral).

Note that the sample E03-2 I tested was from the first batch of XM-L lights, and uses a T6 Neutral white. Can't comment on the more recent T5 Neutrals.

FYI, I'm going to be on holidays the next few days without internet access, so will check back in on all my threads on Monday. :wave:


----------



## selfbuilt

I have just tested a XM-L-based E03 (Neutral T6, loaned from eala), comparison results added to the end of the review, and summarized below:

Note: Original E03 is the XP-G Neutral R5 version.













































































In summary, the new XM-L version has a broader and less defined hotspot, making the light seem "floodier" (i.e. less throw). 

On standard batteries, max output has increased somewhat (for equivalent runtime), but you may not notice the difference given the floodier beam. At lower levels, output and runtime are equvalent between the XP-G and XM-L versions.

On 14500, output has increased at ALL levels. The Hi level is now insanely bright, and not something I would recommend running the light at (i.e. heat will be an issue, potentially damaging the light or the battery). The Med level on the XM-L is now slightly brighter than the Hi of the original XP-G version,  and the Lo on the XM-L is slightly brighter than the Lo of XP-G verison (with again equvalent runtime). So, basically, you gain a very temporary "burst" Hi mode on this new XL-L version, but loose the old Med mode.

Hope that helps!

:wave:


----------



## amraspalantir

nice update selfbuilt...have a question here. can we swap reflectors of on the xpg and xml?
i have the cool white xml and was thinking of putting in the xpg reflector to give the light more throw.


----------



## selfbuilt

amraspalantir said:


> nice update selfbuilt...have a question here. can we swap reflectors of on the xpg and xml?
> i have the cool white xml and was thinking of putting in the xpg reflector to give the light more throw.


Wouldn't make a difference - the reflectors look to be about the same. The throw limitation with XM-L comes from the much larger die size. To focus all that light to tight hotspot requires a much larger reflector, compared to XP-G.


----------



## eala

Nice job! Can't wait to get it back in my grubby hands.

eala


----------



## MichaelW

It that correct, that the xm-l has a lower low mode (on Eneloops)?

Talk about consistency on eneloops, just look at the 1 minute difference in medium run-times.


----------



## selfbuilt

MichaelW said:


> It that correct, that the xm-l has a lower low mode (on Eneloops)?


It's not a big difference, only 4 vs 5 estimated lumens. It could simply be individual light variability, and not due to the emtter per se.


----------



## bodhran

Thanks for taking the time to do an update. Just got my Neutral xml on Monday. It sure does get hot fast on High.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Tuikku said:


> Maybe manufacturer will make those low-modes better for next editions. *I´m sure many will skip this because of that*



absolutely right. 

* Low is definitely not low enough. 20 lumen loiw is considered "Ultra Low"? Come on... 

* Runtime on low is pathetic. 20 hours on a AA Eneloop? I can get more than 20 hours on a AAA light with ease.

* The M/L/H UI is not what people want. The poll I did a year or so ago proved it beyond a shadow of a doubt with a 9.4 to 1 difference to the M/L/H crowd.






If those areas were addressed I'd reconsider.


----------



## Brunt The Grunt

this is becoming a problem that is gonna flatten my pockets, lol great review, had my eyes on this one also


----------



## tsask

I know that feeling  I hope to get one of the remaining blue neutral white XM-Ls. I know its a bit more than the $30 mentioned earlier but Ive become very impressed with my recent XM-L purchases:twothumbs


----------



## AmmoBox

just got my cool white black from hkeqipmenet on ebay. got here in less than 2 weeks.

WOW this thing is bright on 14500's. It lights up my whole yard! I'm going to buy more!


----------



## Lightdadark

I love these lights, I have 2 and will most likely order another. I have really been enjoying the warm tint. Just for fun yesterday I took out the XM-L pill and put it in an old Mini Mag. It got pretty hot so the fun ended quickly and back into Xeno it went.


----------



## davidV5

I have just received my warm white from hkequipment. If I am going to buy another one, I will get a cool white instead. Yellow tint is just not my type.


----------



## Sador

AmmoBox said:


> just got my cool white black from hkeqipmenet on ebay. got here in less than 2 weeks.
> 
> WOW this thing is bright on 14500's. It lights up my whole yard! I'm going to buy more!


 
Neutral Blue from HKequipment here. ~2 wk delivery time as well.
Wife loved it with some duracell AAs the first night. Her eyes popped out last night with some 'disposable' 14500s from Batteries Plus down the street. It's simply unreal how much output this little light has.


----------



## Swedpat

Thanks for all information about this light!

I recently ordered two Xeno E03 XM-L from Tactical HD. One in blue and the other in red, but both in warm white tint. Only 4 hours after the payment I received info that the order is shipped! :thumbsup:
It will be very interesting to try out this light. I am tempted to get a few 14500 cells with charger. Even if the light is too small for more than short while use at high mode with 14500 it would still be fun to experience it... 
Of course I will share my opinion later.

*Best autumn greeting!*


----------



## Swedpat

Today I received the two XM-L E03s. Short personal impression:

These are really nice lights, feel like quality products. The red option has an aggressive knurling like the black model in the first post of this thread, while the blue has a less aggressive knurling more in the design of the knurling of Fenix TK10, but it feels more aggressive than Fenix TK10. 
Both lights have glowing rings between the reflector and lens. But the red colored model has a glowing pushbutton while the blue has a black with knurling pattern.

The tint of warm really is very warm, which I like, especially for outdoor use. But I wonder about if the neutral would be better for allround use.
The wide hotspot with XM-L emitter is very good for short and mid distance use. 

Usually I prefer low-mid-high order rather than mid-low-high but this isn't a big issue. 

I measured the percentual brightness values (using as well alkaline and Eneloop AA) with the light meter and ceiling bounce test. In the small room I used the lux values are following:

Low: ca 4
Ultra low: 0,4
High: ca 12

It's instantly obvious even with eye estimation that the ultra low really is MUCH dimmer than 20lm! According to the lightmeter around 1/30 of the high mode, which should be around 3-5lm. While the stated 20lm hardly can be defined as ultra low, the actual brightness is much closer to it. :thumbsup:

The tailstanding ability is an advantage, now I have two more lights who also can be used for cosy lighting at the lowest mode at home! 

For the price I find these lights are great. Consider to get one or two more with neutral tint. 
I added a TW15 Diffuser Wand as well and this is very well made and works very well!

Regards, Patric


----------



## SadE

Hi,

I would modify my Xeno 03 with an improved homemade driver , especially to get a 0.1 lumen mode . 
But I really dont know how to unplug the driver from the body :-/
Some advices ?


----------



## Lightdadark

The pill just screws right out after you remove the bezel, lens, and reflector.


----------



## SadE

I dismounted the bezel, the lens, and 0ring but I can't remove the reflector. I pushed from the inside, tried with a tool from outside without success  

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## delanovanwyk

Nice review mate, think I will order a XM-L version tonight, wife is going to kill me with all my toys!


----------



## Li-Ion

It`s so little and so bright, great review!


----------



## Swedpat

With all my flashlights I use to compare the tints and the color rendition. As usual cool whites wash out colors like green, brown and red. But also blue tinted objects are more difficult to separate with cool whites. I use to compare how I perceive the colors of my Maglites when I shine on them; blue, midnight blue and two different shades of purple. With cool whites all the blue and purple shades look almost the same. With warm white the purple separates significantly from the other bluish-purple and the blue. But not close to what an incan performs. *Until now*. The Xeno E03 WW makes the purple really look purple like no other warm white LED I have ever tried. Actually it's hard to see difference between it and an incan! Therefore I wonder: is Xeno E03 XM-L a high-CRI light?


----------



## jasonck08

Swedpat said:


> With all my flashlights I use to compare the tints and the color rendition. As usual cool whites wash out colors like green, brown and red. But also blue tinted objects are more difficult to separate with cool whites. I use to compare how I perceive the colors of my Maglites when I shine on them; blue, midnight blue and two different shades of purple. With cool whites all the blue and purple shades look almost the same. With warm white the purple separates significantly from the other bluish-purple and the blue. But not close to what an incan performs. *Until now*. The Xeno E03 WW makes the purple really look purple like no other warm white LED I have ever tried. Actually it's hard to see difference between it and an incan! Therefore I wonder: is Xeno E03 XM-L a high-CRI light?



Warm White XM-L's are rated at 80 CRI±2. NW = 75±2. And CW 65±2. When companies refer to a light or LED as being high CRI, that usually means its in the 80-90 CRI range. So the E03 WW XM-L, is just about in that range.


----------



## Swedpat

jasonck08 said:


> Warm White XM-L's are rated at 80 CRI±2. NW = 75±2. And CW 65±2. When companies refer to a light or LED as being high CRI, that usually means its in the 80-90 CRI range. So the E03 WW XM-L, is just about in that range.


 
Ok, thanks for that information! 

Even if we are teached that the tint has not to do with CRI in itself, actually in this case the CRI is higher with warmer tints.


----------



## jasonck08

Swedpat said:


> Ok, thanks for that information!
> 
> Even if we are teached that the tint has not to do with CRI in itself, actually in this case the CRI is higher with warmer tints.



Yea thats not always the case, but with LED's its _usually_ the warmer, the higher the CRI.


----------



## Paul_in_Maryland

jasonck08 said:


> Warm White XM-L's are rated at 80 CRI±2. NW = 75±2. And CW 65±2. When companies refer to a light or LED as being high CRI, that usually means its in the 80-90 CRI range. So the E03 WW XM-L, is just about in that range.


 How does the warm white XM-L's CRI compare with the XR-E's on the E03 V2 warm white?


----------



## jasonck08

Paul_in_Maryland said:


> How does the warm white XM-L's CRI compare with the XR-E's on the E03 V2 warm white?



Do you mean XP-E / XP-G's?

Typical CRI of CW and NW XP-G's is 75. Typical CRI for XP-E WW is 80. The T4 WW XM-L is considerably brighter and more efficient than the WW XP-E Q3, which was previously the only WW option for the E03 before the XM-L. The CRI should be about the same, however.


----------



## Multitaskertools

I really like my E03; it's a little big for a single AA light, but the interface is easy to cycle thru, and the diffuser wand is a great accessory to have


----------



## HotWire

This Xeno EO3 XM-L T6 is an amazing little light. It is very bright with 14500 cells. I would have preferred L-M-H with memory, but hey, for about $30.00 it's a bargain. Thanks for the review Selfbuilt!


----------



## Swedpat

HotWire said:


> This Xeno EO3 XM-L T6 is an amazing little light. It is very bright with 14500 cells. I would have preferred L-M-H with memory, but hey, for about $30.00 it's a bargain. Thanks for the review Selfbuilt!


 
I agree! I ordered two warm whites in red and blue color, and will order as well the same colors in neutral white. Very nice lights, and I think I will get 14500 cells and charger as well.


----------



## AutoTech

Swedpat said:


> Today I received the two XM-L E03s. Short personal impression:
> 
> These are really nice lights, feel like quality products. The red option has an aggressive knurling like the black model in the first post of this thread, while the blue has a less aggressive knurling more in the design of the knurling of Fenix TK10, but it feels more aggressive than Fenix TK10.
> Both lights have glowing rings between the reflector and lens. But the red colored model has a glowing pushbutton while the blue has a black with knurling pattern.
> 
> The tint of warm really is very warm, which I like, especially for outdoor use. But I wonder about if the neutral would be better for allround use.
> The wide hotspot with XM-L emitter is very good for short and mid distance use.
> 
> Usually I prefer low-mid-high order rather than mid-low-high but this isn't a big issue.
> 
> I measured the percentual brightness values (using as well alkaline and Eneloop AA) with the light meter and ceiling bounce test. In the small room I used the lux values are following:
> 
> Low: ca 4
> Ultra low: 0,4
> High: ca 12
> 
> It's instantly obvious even with eye estimation that the ultra low really is MUCH dimmer than 20lm! According to the lightmeter around 1/30 of the high mode, which should be around 3-5lm. While the stated 20lm hardly can be defined as ultra low, the actual brightness is much closer to it. :thumbsup:
> 
> The tailstanding ability is an advantage, now I have two more lights who also can be used for cosy lighting at the lowest mode at home!
> 
> For the price I find these lights are great. Consider to get one or two more with neutral tint.
> I added a TW15 Diffuser Wand as well and this is very well made and works very well!
> 
> Regards, Patric



So you're saying the blue doesn't come with the glow in the dark button? I've just ordered a blue one and was looking forward to getting my first flashlight with glowing bits :thumbsdow


----------



## AutoTech

Just checked the for sale post of the light I've ordered and it states (and shows a picture) of the blue with the glow in the dark button. Not sure how yours is black, may be a rogue one


----------



## Swedpat

AutoTech said:


> So you're saying the blue doesn't come with the glow in the dark button? I've just ordered a blue one and was looking forward to getting my first flashlight with glowing bits :thumbsdow


 
Yes, that's right. Anyway in my case.


----------



## Kilovolt

I just received a black EO3 XM-L T6 and I am fully satisfied with the quality of the beam. Surprisingly my rubber boot is black and not GITD but I believe I can live with that ...


----------



## j3bnl

I just had a black E03 XM-L T5 neutral white arrive in the mail and it also has a black rubber boot.


----------



## Pat-inCO

AutoTech said:


> So you're saying the blue doesn't come with the glow in the dark button? I've just ordered a blue one and was looking forward to getting my first flashlight with glowing bits :thumbsdow



I received two of them from Emergency Matters last week and both of them had the GITD button and ring in the bezel.


----------



## AutoTech

Pat-inCO said:


> I received two of them from Emergency Matters last week and both of them had the GITD button and ring in the bezel.


 
Got my xml e03 today and it does have the GITD button and ring behind bezel. Certainly chucks out a bit of light with a 14500!


----------



## degarb

I have been reading this thread with avid interest on my cell phone while navigating city taffic. Perhaps i missed a few things when the light turned green and while evading the police. So, what is the lux drop from xpg to xml version? And what is lumen gain? And how would this work as a cap light, velcrod on the duck bill? Runtimes the same? Where is beat place to buy the xpg version? Why didnt they go s2 xpg to keep throw?


----------



## Biovent

My e03 doesn't work anymore with regular aa's. I dropped it with while it was on with a 14500. 14500 still works but aa's don't. Opened everything up and it looks fine. Don't know what it is, but it's not as tough as it feels.


----------



## kreisler

i am really getting in XENO products. The company's name is *Zhongwin Technology Development Co., Ltd* (or short: Zhongwin) and according to their webpage they are in the LED business as OEM and ODM company since 1998. From what i can tell, our XENO E03 V2 was formerly called "FARKA E09 V2" (see old XENO channel or CPF review) and Zhongwin seems to be phasing out the Farka trademark in favor of the XENO brand.

I've ordered Neutral White (XM-L; not XP-G) too. AFAIK the Neutral White exists in XM-L T5 (first production batches) and in XM-L T6 (latest production batches) so mine should be the *NeutralWhite T6*. In addition, the flashlight head should read "Xeno E03 V3" instead of "V2". Getting the CoolWhite in T6 is standard fare, i will let you know about the NeutralWhite in T6 (special order) once i got it. I'll take beamshots if ..



> Now onto the specs (Specs are quoted for CoolWhite XM-L T6 option from the E03 V3 XM-L manual); [selfbuilt's results for NeutralWhite option]
> 
> [Duracell Alkaline]:
> 
> Low: ? mA, ? lumens, ? hrs+ [not tested]
> *Medium*: ? mA, ? lumens, ? hrs+ [*3h49min* to 50%] *brightness *perfectly constant**
> High: ? mA, ? lumens, ? hrs+ [40min to 50%] *brightness steeply sloping*
> 
> Ni-mh cell Sanyo Eneloop 2600mAh [Sanyo Eneloop 2000mAh]:
> 
> Low: 20mA, 20 lumens, 20hrs [not tested; 33.5hrs]
> *Medium*: 150mA, 45 lumens, 4hrs [*4h42min* to 50%] *brightness *perfectly constant**
> High: 350mA, 120 lumens, 1hr [54min to 50%] *brightness almost constant*
> 
> 14500 Li-ion 800mAh [AW Protected 750mAh]:
> 
> Low: 300mA, 80 lumens, 2.5hrs [2h33min to 50%] *brightness sloping*
> Medium: 1000mA, 280 lumens 45min [43min to 50%] *brightness sloping*
> *High*: 1500mA, 430 lumens, *20min* [not tested, heat issues feared!]



In the above quote the recommended and most efficient modes in bold depending on your cell type also determine the usage of the light. Here a summary of guidelines:

+ If you all have is Alkaline, then Alkaline perform accetable in Medium and Low Mode. Keep in mind that they are less efficient: *Alkaline runtime is less* than Eneloop!
+ While Sanyo Eneloop perform acceptable in High Mode, *never* use *Alkaline in High* Mode.
+ If you need constant light for a *long* time, then use Sanyo *Eneloop in Medium* Mode.
+ If you need *bright* light for a short time (e.g. to show off :naughty: in front of non-flashaholics), then use *14500 cells in High* Mode. No matter what or which Mode you use: with *14500 cells, brightness will decrease* a bit over time because the electronic regulation isnt at its best here (compared with the perfect regulation in Spark and ZebraLight flashlights).
+ The efficiency and brightness regulation in the *Low Modes* of Alkaline vs. Sanyo Eneloop has *not been tested*, selfbuilt.


----------



## J888www

kreisler said:


> .........and Zhongwin seems to be phasing out the *Farka* trademark in favor of the XENO brand.



I'm not surprised, the original name sound darn rude.



kreisler said:


> ......because the electronic regulation isnt at its best here (compared with the perfect regulation in Spark and ZebraLight flashlights).


I hope the current version v3 is have comparable regulations to the other said flashlights. It also seems Zhongwin is not heeding the consumer's demand for more accessories ie:- Clips, Pouches.....


----------



## jasonck08

kreisler said:


> 1998. From what i can tell, our XENO E03 V2 was formerly called "FARKA E09 V2" (see old XENO channel or CPF review) and Zhongwin seems to be phasing out the Farka trademark in favor of the XENO brand.



The Farka E09 is a completely different light (although it may look similar). I have several of these and there are several main differences:

1) Use if a TIR Optic instead of a reflector
2) Support for only AA (14500 would fry the driver)
3) Only a single mode
4) Brass ring around the optic vs SS
5) XR-E LED instead of XP-G / XM-L

You are correct though that Xeno doesn't seem to be using the "FARKA" name lately....


----------



## Ian2381

I Just received my third XENo E03 but now I bought an R5 Version, Bought the V2 but received a V3. Whats the difference between the two in terms of driver or is it just aesthetics? 

Here's my heat treated E03


----------



## jondotcom

Ian2381 said:


> I Just received my third XENo E03 but now I bought an R5 Version, Bought the V2 but received a V3. Whats the difference between the two in terms of driver or is it just aesthetics?
> 
> Here's my heat treated E03



Where did you find that color?

V2->V3 seems to be purely aesthetic. The V3 has a different bezel (look at post1 in this thread), finer knurling, and a larger-bore 14mm tail cap). I wanted a V2 for the knurling but cannot find them, and both orders I've placed for V2 were filled with V3s (different sellers).


----------



## Swedpat

Today I received the *4Sevens Single-Bay Smart Charger* with *4x AW's R14500 750mAh* batteries. This is my very first experience with 14500 cells. I measured with ceiling bounce test, the cell fresh out from the charger in the EO3 XM-L Warm:
*Compared to AA*: no more very low mode, the lowest mode is close to the highest with alkalines. The mid mode gives similar lux value as Malkoff M61. The highest mode initial brightness close to Malkoff M91W! It drops a bit after some minute use, and I am surprised the light in my hand will not be warmer than it actually becomes(I expected *hot* after a minute or so). 
Even if I have no integrated sphere for exact measuring it's no doubt that the initial brightness with freshly charged cell at the highest mode will be in the region of close to ~400lm and ~250lm at the mid mode. I know the runtime will suffer compared to using AA, but this is still definitely very nice!

I like the options with a flashlight like Xeno E03. Alkaline, NiMh or Lithium AA cell. *Or* 14500 Li-Ion. Several possibilities for different purposes. Apart from the two E03 warm, a blue and a red I already have, I will soon order the same colors in neutral tint.


----------



## degarb

What was 4sevens cost of all? The china source that someone posted didn't seem to understand english. I would lean to tacticalhid.info as a source, thinking they are USA based (faster and better service). ..............................................................................................................................I have held off buying because the stated runtime of aa is 1 hour at 100 ish lumens and 2 hours with 14500. If I could get 2 hours with aa (2500 milliamp hour) and 100 lumens on 1 AA I would buy. There is 3 watt hours at least in 1 AA rechargeable, and you have led with 150 lumen per watt range: I would think something close to 2 or 3 hours at 110 lumens could be done. Now , the 14500's only have 1amp hour or only slightly more energy dense than the AA (oddly enough). I am guessing driver might be more efficient with 14500.Also holding off, because I haven't read any post concrete lux readings of the xpg r5 v. the xml with the 110 lumen setting. Only impressions....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................So, to sum it up, reasons I am holding off: 14500's don't appear very energy dense with only 1000 milliamps; I would need to buy charger and cells to an get efficient light (not interested in under 100 lumens or under 2 hours runtime, would be happy with 4 hours at 100+ lumens from single cell tiny light); not sure if I would be happy with lux of xml; finally, I doubt if many months would go by before I didn't drop (outside in the dark) and loose one or both my 14500's (dropping one would ruin ability to pair charge).


----------



## varuscelli

jondotcom said:


> Where did you find that color?



If you're talking about the red version, I've seen the red, blue and black at Tactical HID (with, I think, three different LED versions available for each one). I think that's U.S., but I have no idea if that's where Ian2381 got his.


----------



## selfbuilt

degarb said:


> There is 3 watt hours at least in 1 AA rechargeable, and you have led with 150 lumen per watt range: I would think something close to 2 or 3 hours at 110 lumens could be done.


It's more complicated than just theoretical watt hours of batteries and emitters - and heavily dependent on the circuit. The most efficient circuit I've ever seen is the Zebralight SC51 (XP-G R5), and it can only get about 1.5 hours at ~135 lumens on 1x2000mAh Eneloop NiMH. But that light is heavily optimized for NiMH, and doesn't support Li-ion. The ~1 hour on Eneloop that the Xeno E03 gets on Hi (~120 lumens on XP-G and ~145 lumens on XM-L) is quite decent, and consistent with other good quality lights with multi-power circuit support.



> Now , the 14500's only have 1amp hour or only slightly more energy dense than the AA (oddly enough).


I wouldn't say that. As my runtime graphs show, the Xeno E03 runs for ~2.5 hours or longer on 14500 on Lo (~105 lumens on the XP-G verison, ~115 lumens on the XM-L version). Although the output is bit lower than Hi with NiMH, that is more than two and the half times the runtime.



> Also holding off, because I haven't read any post concrete lux readings of the xpg r5 v. the xml with the 110 lumen setting. Only impressions.


As a general rule, output in lumens correlates fairly linearly with lux @1m. So, you could estimate from my lux and output readings on Med/Hi what to expect on Lo on 14500. That would tell you to expect ~1000 lux @1m at the ~105 lumens Lo mode on the XP-G R5 version, and ~650 lux @1m at the ~115 lumens Lo mode of the XM-L T6 version.

In any case, you don't have to rely on that. There are actual direct measurements of the Hi mode on NiMH given in the summary tables in my review. As you will see there, I have directly measured 1275 lux @1m on the ~130 initial lumens Hi mode of the XP-G R5, and 865 lux @1m on the ~150 initial lumens of the XM-L T6. 

As expected, the XP-G R5 version will always have a bit more throw than the XM-L T6 version at comparable output levels.


----------



## vaizki

I've just received Xeno E03s, GITD button and ring in the bezel. However the light seems to flicker very often after I've changed the mode, both with Eneloops and Alkaline. I've broken only one of them out so far because I intended the others as gifts, but what's up with the flicker.. Don't have 14500s for testing.


----------



## pblanch

I get a little bit of the flicker occasionally (not in the beginning though). I think its the switch as a little movement of the cap seems to fix it (until the next time it happens). Not so alarming at the moment but wouldnt count on it as my only EDC decause of that. I have asked around as an alternative cap and no seems to have any reliable alternatives. I did hear about one guy who disassemble it gave it a good WC40 clean and that fixed it. Haven't tried that one myself but could have also just tightened things up a bit when cleaning anyway.


----------



## kreisler

Ian2381 said:


>



So where do i get those GITD rings for the body??
There is space for 2 such "GITD o-rings" on the body!!! i want!!


----------



## varuscelli

kreisler said:


> So where do i get those GITD rings for the body??
> There is space for 2 such "GITD o-rings" on the body!!! i want!!



There are probably quite a few vendors who carry them, but I know for sure that Lighthound has them in something like 10 different sizes from 1/4 inch to 1 inch. You can go to lighthound.com and click on the GITD link in the left-hand sidebar for a bunch of different GITD goodies, including all those o-rings.


----------



## kreisler

oh great, thanks! nice selection they have, very helpful :huh:.

i found a 20-pack with diameter 20mm. This should be fitting exactly since the outer diameter is 21.8mm. and afaik the "20mm" refer to the outer diameter of the rings.





And here some scans of mine *FYI*:


 , 

 ,


----------



## kreisler

I will update this little post with time.



kreisler said:


> 14500 Li-ion 800mAh [AW Protected 750mAh]:
> 
> Low: 300mA, 80 lumens, 2.5hrs [*2h33min* to 50%] *brightness sloping*
Click to expand...

test runs done with 2 cells of Protected flamed TrustFire 3.7V 1x 14500 LiIon 900mAh, freshly charged with UltraFire WF-188. no perceivable sloping brightness:

runtime test, cell1: *3h24min*, brightness constant, then sudden light off (PCB kicked in?)
runtime test, cell2: *TBA*

i also plan run tests in High-mode :devil:


----------



## amraspalantir

hi. is it safe to use imr 14500 cell in this light? worried that i might fry the led with a imr batt. thanks


----------



## varuscelli

amraspalantir said:


> hi. is it safe to use imr 14500 cell in this light? worried that i might fry the led with a imr batt. thanks



Well...that's the way it's advertised...and as the title of this thread says, 1x14650...so I think the answer is yes.


----------



## surprise!

amraspalantir said:


> hi. is it safe to use imr 14500 cell in this light? worried that i might fry the led with a imr batt. thanks


Actually safer than ICR ("Li-Ion") - the 1500mA draw is already the maximum for a 750mAh ICR cell. 
IMRs on the other hand can deliver much more power (AW 14500: 8C -> 4800mA), and the E03 doesn't draw more than the 1500mA on IMR.


----------



## dc38

Just got a WW XM-L e03 today, and unfortunately I am disappointed with the tint of the LED. Selfbuilt's beam tint comparison is spot on, as the warm white is a very sickly kind of yellowish white. Considering the floody nature of the LED, both the throw and brightness are lacking over distances greater than 50' (this was running AW 14500's). A fully charged Maglite incan has a healthier and more vibrant kind of warm white, a little closer to neutral than the WW of the e03. The build quality is great though, I should've listened to Selfbuilt and picked up the Neutral White instead. :/ (For those of you who have had experience with the cheap Uniquefire g10 1 mode, the cool white has a much greater visual intensity and luminosity than the WW e03, and both are rated at 350 max otf lumens)


----------



## tobrien

dc38 said:


> Just got a WW XM-L e03 today, and unfortunately I am disappointed with the tint of the LED. Selfbuilt's beam tint comparison is spot on, as the warm white is a very sickly kind of yellowish white. Considering the floody nature of the LED, both the throw and brightness are lacking over distances greater than 50' (this was running AW 14500's). A fully charged Maglite incan has a healthier and more vibrant kind of warm white, a little closer to neutral than the WW of the e03. The build quality is great though, I should've listened to Selfbuilt and picked up the Neutral White instead. :/ (For those of you who have had experience with the cheap Uniquefire g10 1 mode, the cool white has a much greater visual intensity and luminosity than the WW e03, and both are rated at 350 max otf lumens)


i'm sorry man, yeah you'll wanna get a NW or CW. I prefer NW personally.


----------



## Swedpat

dc38 said:


> Just got a WW XM-L e03 today, and unfortunately I am disappointed with the tint of the LED. Selfbuilt's beam tint comparison is spot on, as the warm white is a very sickly kind of yellowish white.



I have two WW and two NW. Yes; the WW is VERY warm and I understand what you mean. For some circumstances I find this very warm tint to be nice, however. Especially when I use the lights for cosy lightning at home. Then I get a feeling of candlelight, which can be nice. But I think WW can be good also for example out in the wilderness, with much of green and brown colors. I find color rendition to be very high on my WW options.

First I got the WWs, and because I liked the lights so much I then ordered NW. 
I just want to say: go for the NW! It's totally different than WW, but still WAY from nasty bluish cool tint. My two NW examples have a very white and nice tint.

Regards, Patric


----------



## tobrien

Swedpat said:


> I have two WW and two NW. Yes; the WW is VERY warm and I understand what you mean. For some circumstances I find this very warm tint to be nice, however. Especially when I use the lights for cosy lightning at home. Then I get a feeling of candlelight, which can be nice. But I think WW can be good also for example out in the wilderness, with much of green and brown colors. I find color rendition to be very high on my WW options.
> 
> First I got the WWs, and because I liked the lights so much I then ordered NW.
> I just want to say: go for the NW! It's totally different than WW, but still WAY from nasty bluish cool tint. My two NW examples have a very white and nice tint.
> 
> Regards, Patric


thanks to you i may have to pick up a WW E03 haha. you've got me convinced I should have a warm white E03 handy


----------



## Swedpat

tobrien said:


> thanks to you i may have to pick up a WW E03 haha. you've got me convinced I should have a warm white E03 handy



You're welcome! 

Share your impression when you received it! Do you already have the NW E03? If not; get it as well! Since neutral and warm white LEDs are offered I don't want cool when neutral and/or warm is an option. My two NW E03s both have a "creamy white" tint, and I don't want cooler than that. Therefore I didn't even consider to get some cool white E03.


----------



## molon__labe

I have two of these lights.

Pros:

Samll
Bright as heck
Can tailstand

Cons:

No Low mode (firefly mode)
Doesn't come on in low 1st
AA and Lion have different levels (to get low you have to change batteries)
Lion batteries produce turbo, high and medium all closely together with NO low mode.
AA batteries have moderate low (not firefly) moderate medium and medium 2 NO high.
No momentary and no forward clicky.

In my opinion this light needs some work. The "Cons" are too many and too much for my likes. I am giving one of these lights away to a friend I think that little of them.

To be a better light it needs:

LOW (1 lumen) with both batteries
Medium space far from low and high
Forward clicky
Option or spare smooth reflector

Hope for the future
*A separate model (or tube) in the same small form factor that accommodates 123's


----------



## tobrien

Swedpat said:


> You're welcome!
> 
> Share your impression when you received it! Do you already have the NW E03? If not; get it as well! Since neutral and warm white LEDs are offered I don't want cool when neutral and/or warm is an option. My two NW E03s both have a "creamy white" tint, and I don't want cooler than that. Therefore I didn't even consider to get some cool white E03.


haha, believe me, I already have a few NW E03s. I've gifted two or three to people who were fascinated by it and one girl bought one from me to give to her dad. 

i'm talking about XM-L variant, too, fyi. though i'm doubting the WW between XP-G and XM-L are that different tint-wise though? i'm not an expert though.

i'll post my thoughts when i buy that WW E03. i actually don't own any WW lights, now that I think about it. that's gonna change


----------



## Fulaeetoy

I recently bought this eo3. Mine is v3 and have some minor changes over v2 (knurling and tailcap design) and has a 4 stage variable output (locator beacon). Very happy with my 1st led light. 

_____________________________
~ Sent from iOS/Android device


----------



## thedeske

molon__labe said:


> Cons:
> 
> No Low mode (firefly mode)
> Doesn't come on in low 1st
> AA and Lion have different levels (to get low you have to change batteries)
> Lion batteries produce turbo, high and medium all closely together with NO low mode.
> AA batteries have moderate low (not firefly) moderate medium and medium 2 NO high.
> No momentary and no forward clicky.



Most of your cons are pros for me


----------



## tobrien

Fulaeetoy said:


> I recently bought this eo3. Mine is v3 same design as v2 but has a 4 stage variable output (locator beacon). Very happy with my 1st led light.
> 
> _____________________________
> ~ Sent from iOS/Android device


nice, congrats man!


thedeske said:


> Most of your cons are pros for me


ditto, same here. hollar ATLien!


----------



## Fulaeetoy

@tobrien

Thanks, mate! I'm starting to get addicted to it. Next target a thrower one. Hehe.


_____________________________
~ Sent from iOS/Android device


----------



## dc38

pblanch said:


> I get a little bit of the flicker occasionally (not in the beginning though). I think its the switch as a little movement of the cap seems to fix it (until the next time it happens). Not so alarming at the moment but wouldnt count on it as my only EDC decause of that. I have asked around as an alternative cap and no seems to have any reliable alternatives. I did hear about one guy who disassemble it gave it a good WC40 clean and that fixed it. Haven't tried that one myself but could have also just tightened things up a bit when cleaning anyway.



If its not too late to respond, I have two xenos NW and WW. The whole flickering problem is as another user stated, copious amounts of gunk in the switch assembly that keep the switch from making contact. My WW didn't have said problem. Also, be VERY careful not to overtighten the tailcap, the only contact point from tailcap to body is that little bit of non anodized aluminum peeking out under the tailcap. I used a dremel to wear away the edges of the anodizing and swabbed the switch in wd40, and now no no more flicker. On a side note, the light gets uncomfortably warm running eneloops for >15min on high for some reason...is it overdrawing the 1.2 volts?


----------



## shelm

Am beginning to wonder how many people watching this thread actually bought a copy.. How many E03 owners (XPG, XML, any version/emitter) are out there?
*
Shall we post serial numbers (for the sake of it)? *:wave:


----------



## thedeske

shelm said:


> Am beginning to wonder how many people watching this thread actually bought a copy.. How many E03 owners (XPG, XML, any version/emitter) are out there?
> *
> Shall we post serial numbers (for the sake of it)? *:wave:



I'll have a pair soon (black&blue)
Watching the thread from the start, but typically don't buy anything.
I've been really curious to see how those AW cells work. Here's my chance with a very
inexpensive light


----------



## tobrien

shelm said:


> Am beginning to wonder how many people watching this thread actually bought a copy.. How many E03 owners (XPG, XML, any version/emitter) are out there?
> *
> Shall we post serial numbers (for the sake of it)? *:wave:


I've bought about five of them haha

two I gave as gifts, two I sold to people who were ultra impressed with mine, and one, of course, is mine.


----------



## thedeske

Well, that was quick. Ordered from Tactical Saturday and they're here on a Monday.
Both are V3 CoolWhite. Tint looks a little Green compared to my Fenix Q5 lights.
No 14500 cell yet, so I'll wait to see how it goes. I like the soft tap to change med/low/high.


----------



## shelm

thedeske said:


> Tint looks a little Green


if you have enough lights to compare, then even the Neutral White looks noticeably green, especially in the corona area. there is a clear difference between a NeutralWhite Xeno and a CoolWhite Xeno, but both share the green color variation in the corona area.

just in the center of the beam (hotspot), the NeutralWhite Xeno is perfectly what one could call "NeutralWhite" (i.e. where you cannot see the greenish tint of the XML and the coloration is more to the yellowish side). 

at sunlight, if you look at the Xeno NeutralWhite emitter (XML LED/dye) you will notice that it looks greenish-yellow with a shift to dark yellow ("orange") coloration as opposed to the Xeno CoolWhite emitter (XML LED/dye) which rather looks greenish-yellow with a clear shift to greenish coloration. In both cases you have the greenish element on the dye.

And that's what you see in the corona (and partly on the spill). All i am saying is the the NeutralWhite Xeno has less greenish areas in the beam pattern than the CoolWhite Xeno.

but let's agree, the greenishness of the Xeno is nothing compared to other known premium lights (Quark, Sunwayman, iTP, ..)


----------



## thedeske

shelm said:


> but let's agree, the greenishness of the Xeno is nothing compared to other known premium lights (Quark, Sunwayman, iTP, ..)



Thanks & agree. There are far worse greens out there. Quarks for sure, although I had a mini cr2 that was very neutral white & quite nice. Too bad they didn't last long. 3 of 4 failed (one was a 123) My older Fenix lights are all in the blue range, but I'm one who likes that tint.
After taking the Xeno outside tonight in the fog, I like the pattern. Very nice flood for the size. Should be interesting to see
what happens with the AW cell when it arrives. The LD10 has been one my most used lights. Something about the size seems to work well in my mobile tool kit, around the shop, and just all around easy to deal with single AA. I typically need something for close work, so floods are a plus.
If the Xeno proves to be reliable, it could fit the task where I want more light in the same small PKG.

Thanks Again to selfbuilt for the Fine Work

Update: OK, I get it now. A short test with the AW cell and she's a hot one to hold after 3-4 minutes in high.
On in medium is likely enough for most situations. Onward to durability, which takes many moons.


----------



## shelm

the mode sequence on E03 V3 is Med-Lo-Hi.

i am observing that the NEUTRAL WHITE xeno has no spacing between High-mode and Med-mode, when run on a 14500. the average observer (like myself) cant tell the brightness difference between these two. the COOL WHITE xeno has clear brightness difference between Hi and Med on 14500: Hi and Med are not well-spaced to each other but it is easy to tell whether the light is on Med or Hi.

with the NEUTRAL WHITE emitter when the light is turned on (either on High or Med-modes) and you would have to guess whether the light is on High-mode or Med-mode, you're chances are 50/50 to guess correctly. The difference between these two on the NEUTRAL WHITE Xeno e03 v3 is minimal. Practically zero. (yeah, your expensive luxmeter will register a lux difference. happy now??!)

so again, to make myself clear and that every reader is aware of it and not disappointed when he/she buys the NEUTRAL WHITE Xeno: both modes are equally bright (not 100% exactly, but maybe 98.6%. who ever cared to measure please?) with the NEUTRALWHITE emitter.

interesting.


----------



## Fulaeetoy

I noticed that v3 has a different knurling and tailcap design over v2. Tailcap has a better texture and grip. 

__________________________________________


----------



## Danielsan

I have a problem with this light, i gifted one of those to a friend, he is a car mechanic and needs the light also in daylight to look under the car for example. After only a day he called me and told me the light will shut off automatically after a minute sometimes, he used only normal AA Batteries, not eneloops. On the first day everything was ok but the other day the problems started. He also tried different AA Batteries with the same problems. Ive heard the light has Problems with the clicky, can this be the problem? Ive told him to try the spare switch, he will call me tomorrow if the problem is still there. If it is really the clicky then it must be very poor quality, it was like dead on arriving. Can higher quality clickys be used in the Xeno E03, is it possible? If not where i can get new ones if the spare clicky fails too after some days? Or do you have other suggestions about this problem?


----------



## tobrien

Danielsan said:


> I have a problem with this light, i gifted one of those to a friend, he is a car mechanic and needs the light also in daylight to look under the car for example. After only a day he called me and told me the light will shut off automatically after a minute sometimes, he used only normal AA Batteries, not eneloops. On the first day everything was ok but the other day the problems started. He also tried different AA Batteries with the same problems. Ive heard the light has Problems with the clicky, can this be the problem? Ive told him to try the spare switch, he will call me tomorrow if the problem is still there. If it is really the clicky then it must be very poor quality, it was like dead on arriving. Can higher quality clickys be used in the Xeno E03, is it possible? If not where i can get new ones if the spare clicky fails too after some days? Or do you have other suggestions about this problem?


for what it's worth, I have never had problems with the five or so I've given (one of which I kept for myself). I don't know why everyone is saying they're getting clicky problems.


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## MichaelW

Break the tailcap down and clean everything. Both of the E03s v3 that I purchased were horribly dirty.


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## jonnyfgroove

Danielsan said:


> I have a problem with this light, i gifted one of those to a friend, he is a car mechanic and needs the light also in daylight to look under the car for example. After only a day he called me and told me the light will shut off automatically after a minute sometimes, he used only normal AA Batteries, not eneloops. On the first day everything was ok but the other day the problems started. He also tried different AA Batteries with the same problems. Ive heard the light has Problems with the clicky, can this be the problem? Ive told him to try the spare switch, he will call me tomorrow if the problem is still there. If it is really the clicky then it must be very poor quality, it was like dead on arriving. Can higher quality clickys be used in the Xeno E03, is it possible? If not where i can get new ones if the spare clicky fails too after some days? Or do you have other suggestions about this problem?



If the new switch doesn't do the trick, try taking the light completely apart and cleaning everything with Deoxit. The threads on the pill itself were full of debris on my E03. Since the cleaning it has been rock solid. Not a hint of a flicker or any other weirdness.


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## iron potato

Thanks selfbuilt for the great review that convinced me to get one too 

Upon opening the package, found a little dusty on the thread / O-ring area, tailcap area is clean, so get it cleaned & relubed.
Powered on the NW XM-L T5 with Eneloop, the tint is in between Zebralight's SC60w & SC600, really liking the tint :thumbsup:
Might getting their G42v2 in near future :devil:


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## Fulaeetoy

Thingking of buying a diffuser on my eo3. Is it worth it? 

________________________________
- Sent from Mobile using Tapatalk


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## shelm

Fulaeetoy said:


> Thingking of buying a diffuser on my eo3. Is it worth it?
> 
> ________________________________
> - Sent from Mobile using Tapatalk



its definitely worth it. fits perfectly the 21.5mm bezel and seems even airtight because it makes some funny (sucking) noise/sound when you remove the diffuser swiftly.
it's CNC machined plastic in a matté finish. its *unbreakable *(unlike the Fenix LD20 diffusers which are made of brittle shiny hard plastic) because the plastic is not brittle hard plastic but softer hard plastic.
amazing engineering quality for what it is. i got mine from hkequipment.net with global free shipping. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fulaeetoy

@shelm

How's the distribution of light? Kinda' worried it might affect the diffuser when using 14500 on medium mode. It gets hot. 

________________________________
- Sent from Mobile using Tapatalk


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## shelm

No worries. light distribution is radial, i.e. to the sides. less light pervades the top of the diffuser (its tip). Excellently bright and highly recommended. The Fenix diffusers have a different light distribution, e.g. real candle-like or directional through the tip, so the Fenix and Xeno diffusers dont form a redundant system.

No heat issues feared. Dont worry. the material is thick, solid, and made for this purpose. 
dont you trust the Chinese engineers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Fulaeetoy

I'm convinced. I will probably get this weekend from my seller. Thanks for the response shelm. 

________________________________
- Sent from Mobile using Tapatalk


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## thedeske

Just checked a fenix tip. Works fine, but the one from Xeno looks like a better idea for some tasks.
On occasion, I'll use a diffuser to work inside a dark cabinet, running wire or setting hardware, slides, etc.


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## tobrien

shelm said:


> No worries. light distribution is radial, i.e. to the sides. less light pervades the top of the diffuser (its tip). Excellently bright and highly recommended. The Fenix diffusers have a different light distribution, e.g. real candle-like or directional through the tip, so the Fenix and Xeno diffusers dont form a redundant system.
> 
> No heat issues feared. Dont worry. the material is thick, solid, and made for this purpose.
> dont you trust the Chinese engineers? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


thanks for comparing the Xeno diffuser to the Fenix one. I know I had read around CPF that the Fenix filter(s) fit, as well, but I wasn't sure at all if they were worth it. I appreciate your feedback in this thread, man. 

I'll stick with my Xeno diffuser then!


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## shelm

thedeske said:


> Just checked a fenix tip. Works fine, but the one from Xeno looks like a better idea for some tasks.
> On occasion, I'll use a diffuser to work inside a dark cabinet, running wire or setting hardware, slides, etc.


for the Xeno E03 i do recommend from the large set of Fenix diffusers and tips and caps and lenses and add-ons and etc the following two items:
+ the Xeno diffuser (okay, this is not by Fenix lol!),
it's great for serious application, like scanning a table full of documents (it actually has much similarity to a PC's scanner!). the radial diffusion of the light ensures that the radial light output is surprisingly high so that you can use it for close-up work jobs at a table, incl. reading books.
+ the transparent Fenix diffuser tip
this product could replace the Fenix diffuser lens. Since it's transparent most of the light goes through the tip of the cone which gives you a forward-directed diffused beam(!). a typical application of it is when you need diffused light ahead of you in the direction where you walk, e.g. indoors, basements, cellars, corners. Compared to the Xeno diffuser, i would call this beam uni-directional. Excellent diffuser when you move or walk with the torch in a restricted area where you dont need a hotspot and when a hotspot is 'wasted resources': indoors you dont need throw or want an extreme bright center spot.
+ the white Fenix diffuser tip
this product diffuses light into all directions and thus the light intensity at any point in space is low. With this diffuser you cannot do any serious work or reading books or walking through rooms. The only sensible application of this diffuser is lighting up a small chamber (room) evenly in tailstand candle-like mode. However, since 21.5mm lights are usually not bright enough, the effect of lighting up a whole room is minimal, and you cant be serious with it with THIS diffuser. in fact, the Xeno diffuser does a little better job in this application. While the total light output is the same, the Xeno's radial distribution (evenly in the room) is more useful to the eye because of the higher intensity at _your _point in space. To cut it short, the white Fenix diffuser tip is inferior to the other 2 diffusers with regard to serious applications, and therefore i cant recommend its purchase or application.

There are more Fenix diffusers (e.g. the cap and lenses and traffic cones) which fit the Xeno head, but the above 2 diffusers cover already most possible serious applications like close-up work jobs or walking through rooms.


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## selfbuilt

shelm said:


> the white Fenix diffuser tip ... in fact, the Xeno diffuser does a little better job in this application. While the total light output is the same, the Xeno's radial distribution (evenly in the room) is more useful to the eye because of the higher intensity at _your _point in space. To cut it short, the white Fenix diffuser tip is inferior to the other 2 diffusers with regard to serious applications, and therefore i cant recommend its purchase or application.


I would agree with this assessment. I am not a big fan of the flip-up Fenix lens diffuser/filter, or the large white diffuser wand. 

For a good diffused beam for walking outdoors at night (or lighting up the back yard, etc.), I like a proper diffuser right-over the lens (e.g. the screw-on diffusers that replace bezel rings on a number of Eagletac lights). Olight sells a decent diffuser in a rubber cap that will fit over most lights, but it may not be as snug as you might like (depending on the make and model).

The Xeno white diffuser wand does a better job than the Fenix wand (which I find still lets too much light out the round tip of the wand). The Xeno wand seems to give a more even glow, and is good for use as a wide-source illumination tool for close-up work.

Fenix does make an interesting lantern-style clip-on diffuser. That one is pretty neat, as it turns any appropriately sized AA light into a quasi-lantern like pattern.


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## Fulaeetoy

This really helps me a lot. Thanks for the feedback guys! Can't wait to get one.

________________________________
- Sent from Mobile using Tapatalk


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## shelm

*FOR* i found out, my long term observation, that the Xeno E03 gets dimmer and dimmer after long term usage and at one point the light would begin to flicker, which is more easily observed with Eneloops than with 14500. The flickering is, obviously, not a problem of the driver but of a dodgy contact in the tailcap and the cheap switch.

Why the contact begins to get dodgy .. i dunno.

So i disassembled the tailcap .. very nice construction (CAD) , just the used parts like the loose thin spring (why not a thicker spring?) and the cheap switch (spare switch), and the black plastic (why not aluminum?) *are* cheap. and cleaned the threads, surfaces, contact points etc with a Q-tip and alcohol. 

Actually i was a little shocked to see that the tailcap was quite dirty (manufacturing debris and other stuff) so i thought that cleaning everything would help. I reassembled everything with a good feeling and .. no improvement! The light was maybe(?) brighter but the dodgy contact was still there, somewhere: the light was still flickering. maybe a little less, maybe not. but it was still a little flickery and annoying enough!

Then i disassembled the tailcap again, and now i knew that it had to be the clicky (after testing the spare clicky -- which was the proof. no more flickering!) and not the manufacturing debris or dirty threads. Yes the clicky itself (and that's why we got a spare one!!) *is* the problem. So i went to the garage, fetched the WD-20 (or was it WD-40 lol?) and bathed the plasticky clicky in it. As bathing container i employed the plastic cap of a plastic water bottle. Pure WD-??, undiluted. Bathing and pressing the clicky 100x so that the WD-?? would penetrate the interior of the cheapo clicky.. which it did (mini air bubbles exiting .. good sign!).

Then i reassembled everything (without drying/cleaning the clicky) 'as is' and .. tarah the light functions as new: full brightness (yay!!), and no more flickering. Problem solved. For now. Until the clicky gets flickery again after a few weeks.

Well, we still get flickering when we press the switch veeery slowly, e.g. the light is on Hi (full press) and we change to Lo (half press) veeeery slowly. It's the physical mechanism (called _contact resistance_) inside the cheap clicky which causes a "dodgy contact" when we slowly/slightly half-press the switch: there is nothing we could do about it (since it's mechanics/physics) unless we bath the clicky in Deoxit Gold (or other "lubes" which enhance electrical connections).. but Deoxit Gold isnt liquid enough and it would hardly penetrate the clicky thru the slits. 

The best way to avoid flickering is by tapping the switch fast and decidedly, and this will work with a maintained old switch (WD-??, or Deoxit Gold-like lube) or with the provided brand-new switch.

Again, why the contact (inside the cheap clicky) _*begins *_to get dodgy .. i dunno. the clicky (spare clicky) itself is a closed unit and how would dust or debris penetrate thru its side slits? i assume it's rather due to wear and tear and oxidation of the inner clicky contact points, plus maybe some dust.

People complained about the cheap _feeling _switch and the cheap materials (spring, black plastic) used. I dont mind the cheap _feel_. More do i mind the flickering which will/would reoccur after some time of normal usage, and if you dont use Deoxit Gold-like stuff, the flickering will occur after a while. The switch doesnt fail, but the light flickers. Or try the following: On Hi-mode (Eneloops) slightly quarter-press the switch *without* changing modes (to Lo-mode). The light begins to flicker! Why? Because you are creating _yourself _a dodgy contact inside the clicky switch. Conclusion: dont do it, you're gonna annoy yourself!

The annoying problem was/is that the light _itself _begins to flicker after a while, and not because of you fooling around with the switch (quarter-presses, ..). 

And that's presumably exactly the reason *why Xeno included a spare clicky*. Not because the clicky could break (please, how?? -- the Xeno is like a tank, and the tailcap construction (CAD) is like a tank too) but *because the light begins to flicker after a while (AND GETS DIMMER!)*. Change the clicky and you get back full brightness and the flickering is gone.

Hope this info helps!

(FOR = FOR our records  )


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## tobrien

Swedpat said:


> I have two WW and two NW. Yes; the WW is VERY warm and I understand what you mean. For some circumstances I find this very warm tint to be nice, however. Especially when I use the lights for cosy lightning at home. Then I get a feeling of candlelight, which can be nice. But I think WW can be good also for example out in the wilderness, with much of green and brown colors. I find color rendition to be very high on my WW options.
> 
> First I got the WWs, and because I liked the lights so much I then ordered NW.
> I just want to say: go for the NW! It's totally different than WW, but still WAY from nasty bluish cool tint. My two NW examples have a very white and nice tint.
> 
> Regards, Patric


as a bit of an update, thanks to you I've finally ordered a WW E03. It took a while for me to get around to submitting my order for one because I had been buying other lights, but this will be my FIRST warm white LED purchase ever. I may have to post beamshots to see if it's representative of most WW LEDs, because, as I mentioned, I've never had anything other than CW and NW (NW to a lesser degree).

I love the NW of my MC-E in my Quark RGB and the NW of my XM-L E03s, so hopefully the WW on the XM-L will be nice! thanks everyone, and especially Swedpat! 

the NW in my Quark RGB (MC-E) is sooooooooo nice and doesn't even begin to blow out colors. i guess cuz it's a low(er) power emitter or something? I need to compare my NW E03 and NW RGB next to each other though.

edit: warm white in a red body


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## ToyTank

Hi selfbuilt I used the URL link from your graph to help someone in deciding what AA lights to get. I gave you credit for the graph if you want me to take it down or anything let me know. Thanks again for doing all this work I find your reviews really help me decide what lights are for me.


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## selfbuilt

ToyTank said:


> I selfbuilt I used the URL link from your graph to help someone in deciding what AA lights to get. I gave you credit for the graph if you want me to take it down or anything let me know. Thanks again for doing all this work I find your reviews really help me decide what lights are for me.


Thanks for letting me know. No problem to use the image with appropriate attribution, but I would also appreciate it if you provide a direct link to the main review at the same time (that way, people can look up the rest of the background and the method I use).

P.S.: The E03 does not use PWM - the light is current-controlled. If there is any sign of "flickering" it is due to a contact, circuit, or switch issue.


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## tobrien

anyone have a pic of the switch disassembled? i still have yet to have problems with the clicky, but i'm curious how many parts are in the switch


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## shelm

tobrien said:


> anyone have a pic of the switch disassembled? i still have yet to have problems with the clicky, but i'm curious how many parts are in the switch


check the included accessories, it has a spare switch (clicky) :ironic:
sent form my ipohn using Tapatalk


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## dc38

shelm said:


> check the included accessories, it has a spare switch (clicky) :ironic:
> sent form my ipohn using Tapatalk



I used a tail boot that I got with my Klarus ST20. The inside of it has slightly more room, so that the silicon is not directly touching/interacting with the clicky. Unfortunately, the boot cover is not GITD, but it does match the light somewhat, albeit a bit slimmer. The extra space in the boot basically keeps me from "flickering" the light whenever I slowly press it. (By the way, this was one of the reasons that I wanted to convert to a forward switch; with a forward, you don't have a change modes in operation feature, which pretty much gets rid of the flickering). Other things you could do is to try and clean up the insides of the clicky switch, but make sure you don't break it.


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## ToyTank

tobrien said:


> anyone have a pic of the switch disassembled? i still have yet to have problems with the clicky, but i'm curious how many parts are in the switch



I just took mine apart I should have taken a photo.

The plastic threaded retainer was a bit tough to get out. The holes are to small for the fork I normally use. I used 2 soldering picks in the little holes to thread it out. 

There was just the retainer, a spring, and the switch itself. I soaked the switch (not whole tail-cap) In WD40 and clicked it a bunch of times it for now fixed my flickering issue. 
EDC+ is sending me a new switch also which is absolutely top notch service:thumbsupI wanted to buy a replacement switch, he offered to send me one free and recommended the WD40)

I think the switch was definitively a weak link in this light. I'm sure it was a compromise to reach the low MSRP.


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## shelm

now that ive been an owner for half a year (and the popularity of this cpf thread lead me to buying it!!) here my thoughts. nobody asked for it but i am good.

- i dont mind the flickering issue when the light is ON because i solved the problem with the WD40 bath. tapping the switch in a decided manner helps too: no more flickering! slowly pressing the switch (for what reason please?) will cause flickering .. because *you* are causing then the flickering literally and mechanically. lol
- the fenix ld20 pocket clip has scratched the red anodization. i use the clip for bezel up carry (attached to pocket or to baseball cap; works beautifully)
- everything of the tail switch is apparently cheap: the black plastic retainer, the ridiculous weak spring, and the el cheapo clicky. i do like the black rubber boot and tailstand capability. and that all fenix ld20 21.5mm addon's (diffusers, ..) fit.
- i didnt like the creamy-yellowish tint of the XML T5 NW. but after 6 months i like it fwiw. all my other lights are pure white or coolwhite so having 1 light which is warm.. yah why not.
- i am missing mode memory.
- tactical momentary on isnt possible with this light because activation is used to progress in the mode sequence. one would need a twisty head to incorporate tactical momentary on.
- the light is waterproof. 10m. thanks to the 2-part system (tail + tube) and double o-rings.
- the brightness is not stabilized on High-mode. no matter with Eneloops or 14500. similar to iTP A3 which isnt stabilized on High-mode either. here's room for improvement.
- my 1xAAA lights with 10440 beat the Xeno E03 on Eneloops in brightness and also in lumen-minutes. 

the biggest gripe i got .. and only after using the E03 for 6 months i am realizing this:
- on 14500 you dont get any serious runtimes. for serious illumination tasks (e.g. illuminating a chess board for the duration of a chess match) the E03 is a big fail. On [email protected] we get max. 60mins from the E03, whereas on [email protected] i get 120mins from the Quark X. The Quark is a serious flashlight for serious tasks. Easily. I cant say this about the E03, sorry. In RL situations when i have to pick a compact light for a serious task (e.g. cleaning the house) i have stopped picking the E03. The runtimes (and lumen-minutes) are simply too disappointing. Eats 14500's like there is no tomorrow.

the E03 XML is a truely inefficient light. for EDC situations not a big deal, for serious lighting tasks a nogo. For the latter you'll long for a more efficient flashlight (Fenix LD20 or Quark; they are more expensive but.. )


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## dc38

+1, shelm. I still carry it around for just in case somebody's lost something indoors, a quick burst of light here and there tend to be sufficient for lighting a room. Unfortunately for me, the lights get plenty uncomfortably warm even on eneloops on high, so quick bursts here and there with that as well. My WW e03 is now a backup to my NW e03 is a backup to my jetbeam pc10 is a backup to my klarus ST20. Although it doesn't serve much of a purpose anymore except for quick interior lighting, the e03 is still a solidly built light 

@tobrien, I'll PM you a link to my flickr so you can check out some pics of the tailcap disassembled.


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## tickled

shelm said:


> the biggest gripe i got .. and only after using the E03 for 6 months i am realizing this: - on 14500 you dont get any serious runtimes. for serious illumination tasks (e.g. illuminating a chess board for the duration of a chess match) the E03 is a big fail. On [email protected] we get max. 60mins from the E03, whereas on [email protected] i get 120mins from the Quark X. The Quark is a serious flashlight for serious tasks. Easily. I cant say this about the E03, sorry. In RL situations when i have to pick a compact light for a serious task (e.g. cleaning the house) i have stopped picking the E03. The runtimes (and lumen-minutes) are simply too disappointing. Eats 14500's like there is no tomorrow. the E03 XML is a truely inefficient light. for EDC situations not a big deal, for serious lighting tasks a nogo. For the latter you'll long for a more efficient flashlight (Fenix LD20 or Quark; they are more expensive but.. )


 I am not an expert but even though 14500 cells have higher Wh vs Eneloops, I have a feeling that most people shoving them into AA lights like the E03 are not doing it to get longer runtime. I don't know if it's a matter of efficiency or not but it's obvious that the extra Wh in the 14500 is being converted into more lumens. Feel free to complain about runtimes of a 1xAA light when put against a 2xAA light though. As for lighting up a serious chess match, I don't see why you would need 300-400 lumens for that (or for anything inside the house for that matter).


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## riccardo.dv

shelm said:


> now that ive been an owner for half a year (and the popularity of this cpf thread lead me to buying it!!) here my thoughts. nobody asked for it but i am good.



I totally agree with you except for the tint, that creamy nw is awesome for me  no way to replace the elcheapo tail click? Also, where can I find a clip for this light in eu?



Tapatalk @Xperia Arc S


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## zenbeam

I recently bought a Xeno E03 and for the price... I think it is a great light for around the house or yard, but I would not rely on it for serious camping or canoeing outings, etc. I have no reason to say this other than from research and others' statements - and the fact that many other of my lights cost a fair amount more and strike me as being more reliable and tough in general.

But, I have to admit that I do like the "look" of this light (I got the deep sea blue or whatever) and the GITD O-ring at the bezel is neat as well as the GITD switch boot. It's very aesthetically appealing after acquiring so many black on black on black flashlights!

I also have to admit that I have been very curious to see one of these single AA lights that supposedly nearly quadruples its output when you put in a 14500 in action! I got to do this last night for the very first time after receiving my EagleTac 750mAh 14500's. Man! There was absolutely NO exaggeration in terms of what this light could do on a 14500 (output that is - no idea about runtime... lol). 

Yeah, like *tickled* said, I wasn't looking for runtimes. I was just interested in flat out WOW factor from a rather inexpensive light. But really.... WOW! 


Bottom line, I love this light. I know what it is and I understand what it isn't - I have other lights for that. :thumbsup:


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## jasonck08

shelm said:


> the biggest gripe i got .. and only after using the E03 for 6 months i am realizing this:
> - on 14500 you dont get any serious runtimes. for serious illumination tasks (e.g. illuminating a chess board for the duration of a chess match) the E03 is a big fail. On [email protected] we get max. 60mins from the E03, whereas on [email protected] i get 120mins from the Quark X. The Quark is a serious flashlight for serious tasks. Easily. I cant say this about the E03, sorry. In RL situations when i have to pick a compact light for a serious task (e.g. cleaning the house) i have stopped picking the E03. The runtimes (and lumen-minutes) are simply too disappointing. Eats 14500's like there is no tomorrow.
> 
> the E03 XML is a truely inefficient light. for EDC situations not a big deal, for serious lighting tasks a nogo. For the latter you'll long for a more efficient flashlight (Fenix LD20 or Quark; they are more expensive but.. )



The E03 defiantly isn't perfect, and might not be suitable for every situation, but there are a few things to keep in mind. First off, the E03's driver was never designed for 14500 3.7v cells. The driver was designed for AA and Lifepo4 cells. Running it on high mode initially basically direct drives the light. If you want more runtime, simply use a AA or Lifepo4 cell. I believe people that run them off 14500's are doing this because of the sheer output from this light. There are very few (if any) 14500 lights that put out over 400 Lumens on high mode. It's a pocket rocket!  Also the E03 low mode, on 14500 has fairly decent runtime of a couple hours or so. I'm not sure what to make of your last comment about it being inefficient. When using a 14500 cell and direct driving it, its going to be MORE efficient, because its essentially bypassing part of the driver, and a higher % of power is going to the LED.




tickled said:


> I am not an expert but even though 14500 cells have higher Wh vs Eneloops, I have a feeling that most people shoving them into AA lights like the E03 are not doing it to get longer runtime. I don't know if it's a matter of efficiency or not but it's obvious that the extra Wh in the 14500 is being converted into more lumens.



Exactly.


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## selfbuilt

Just to clarify the above issue, there is no problem with the relative "efficiency" of the E03 on Li-ion. As you will see in my runtimes, it's runtime performance is generally comparable to the Thrunite 1C, when matched at equivalent output levels.

The real issue is the fact that the output _is a lot higher_ on Li-ion, at all levels. Basically, the E03 Lo mode on Li-ion is almost as bright as the Hi mode on Eneloop! Or to compare to the Thrunite 1C, both on Li-ion: the E03's Lo mode matches the 1C's Med mode, the E03 Med mode is in-between the 1C's Hi and Turbo modes, and the E03's Hi mode exceeds the 1C's Turbo.

So the problem is that _absolute_ runtime will suffer on Li-ion, because you no longer have the equivalent of the Lo/Med modes available to standard batteries. But the relative efficiency of the E03 hasn't changed.

In my view, the E03 isn't well suited to Li-ion use, unless you don't mind loosing the true Lo/Med modes. Of course, it would fit the bill if you are looking for a high-output pocket rocket.


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## shelm

good discussion, good points made. .. if people are aware of the real runtimes on Eneloops and on 14500's before they purchase it, then the buyer wont be disappointed. I wasnt disappointed. Just saying that we get higher "lumen-minutes" (suitable for chess matches) from leading torches such as Zebralight, Quark or Fenix. The concept of lumen-minutes can be used to measure efficiency. And in this regard the E03 XML is inefficient .. compared with these 3 brands at comparable output levels.

in this post i only wanted to add (NEWS!) : my light has started flickering again. *sigh* When did i last do the WD40 bath? sorry cant remember. when i do the WD40 bath, i'll update this post and note down the date for reference purposes. Didnt i even report about my first WD40 bath in this thread? Wasnt too long ago. 2 months max, my guesstimate.

looking forward to improved versions of the Xeno E03!


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## dc38

CFS, Chronic Flicker Syndrome  Bathe it well lol...make sure you get it behind the ears again and every nook and cranny!


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## selfbuilt

shelm said:


> Just saying that we get higher "lumen-minutes" (suitable for chess matches) from leading torches such as Zebralight, Quark or Fenix. The concept of lumen-minutes can be used to measure efficiency. And in this regard the E03 XML is inefficient .. compared with these 3 brands at comparable output levels.


Sorry, but that contradicts the data. Below are runtimes just for those lights, on 14500:











As you can see, the "lumen-minutes" efficiency is pretty much identical between the E03 XM-L and those lights, when run at comparable output levels, as you say.

I'm not trying to be pedantic, but that is what most people mean by relative efficiency - when directly comparing the lights at the same comparable outputs. In this case, the lights have the same runtime. 

It is true that most of those other lights have lower output levels, and can therefore last a lot longer (at lower output). Running at lower output is a more efficient use of one's limited battery capacity - and that's true for any light. This is why I would like to see a lower Lo on E03, personally.


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## MojaveMoon07

shelm said:


> in this post i only wanted to add (NEWS!) : my light has started flickering again. *sigh* When did i last do the WD40 bath? sorry cant remember. when i do the WD40 bath, i'll update this post and note down the date for reference purposes. Didnt i even report about my first WD40 bath in this thread? Wasnt too long ago. 2 months max, my guesstimate.



I had been looking forward to buying an E03. But this flickering issue and resolving it sounds like exasperating, grating, and tedious. Now I'm leaning toward not purchasing it.

Does the Xeno E15 _[AAx2]_ have a better switch that is less prone to this issue ? I tried to search for information on this forum, and I could only find two reviews: _(link #1)_ , _(link #2)_. I didn't know about the E15 until I saw it mentioned in the ongoing E03 thread in the dealers section at the cpfmarketplace forum.


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## shelm

MojaveMoon07 said:


> this flickering issue and resolving it sounds like exasperating, grating, and tedious.


it is if you dont have tweezers or WD40. but .. no other EDC light is 99.9% perfect. I am thinking that the Quark X (1x14500 food) comes close to "perfect" in terms of versatility and features. But my Quark sample is very greenish on Lo, Med, Hi, Moonlight, and Turbo (Max) and i only like it for shining it on green grass (because then the grass explodes in juicy green coloration to my optical perception).

there is always a notable downside to a light. on the upside, why the E03 continues to be popular: it's one of the few sub 30$ 1xAA lights with XML (For the Quark one needs to buy the 2xAA XML version!) plus color choice (red, blue, black), emitter choice (XPG, XML) and tint choice (CW, NW, WW). no other manufacturer is able to offer such a variety for the same model: E03.


----------



## MojaveMoon07

Thank you





About how long has each of these two "de-flickerings" taken you _(time for tweezers to dissamble plus time for bathing with WD-40)_ ?


----------



## jasonck08

MojaveMoon07 said:


> I had been looking forward to buying an E03. But this flickering issue and resolving it sounds like exasperating, grating, and tedious. Now I'm leaning toward not purchasing it.
> 
> Does the Xeno E15 _[AAx2]_ have a better switch that is less prone to this issue ? I tried to search for information on this forum, and I could only find two reviews: _(link #1)_ , _(link #2)_. I didn't know about the E15 until I saw it mentioned in the ongoing E03 thread in the dealers section at the cpfmarketplace forum.



E15 uses the same switch. It still is kind of mind boggling to hear of some of the issues people are having with the switches. I have about 6 of these E03's for the past 1-2 years or so, and I've not had a problem with any of the switches, or any other component for that matter. Now granted these don't see a ton of use given my large light collection but still... Makes me wonder what the contributing factors are? Lots of clicks cause it to fail? High humidity environment, or dirt getting in the switch somehow? The spring wearing down and not allowing firm electrical contact inside the switch assembly? Not sure...


----------



## tobrien

jasonck08 said:


> E15 uses the same switch. It still is kind of mind boggling to hear of some of the issues people are having with the switches. I have about 6 of these E03's for the past 1-2 years or so, and I've not had a problem with any of the switches, or any other component for that matter. Now granted these don't see a ton of use given my large light collection but still... Makes me wonder what the contributing factors are? Lots of clicks cause it to fail? High humidity environment, or dirt getting in the switch somehow? The spring wearing down and not allowing firm electrical contact inside the switch assembly? Not sure...


same here, I've gifted quite a few E03s as well and might have kept some for me too (lol) and no issues on any of them.


----------



## djans1397

I just bought one in the blue, neutral flavor and love it! On 14500's it's a little beast with massivde output! However the low is still pretty bright on these. Not that it's a problem, just wished there was better spacing. On regular lithiums though the levels are lower and better spaced. I'll plan to carry mine with the 14500's though for the shear fun factor of massive lument OTF! Overall I'm impressed with this light given the low cost of it for all that it offers! 

:thumbsup::thumbsup: two thumbs up for this one!


----------



## nofearek9

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...-(CR14505)-3V-1500mAh-Lithium-AA-size-battery this i gues will be a good solution for plp who dont want to use 14500s


----------



## shelm

MojaveMoon07 said:


> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About how long has each of these two "de-flickerings" taken you _(time for tweezers to dissamble plus time for bathing with WD-40)_ ?


havent done the 2nd de-flickering yet. seems like the E03 has stopped flickering for now; its flickering and non-flickering behavior is truely to be called 'acting up'. i am too lazy to get myself again all messy and stinky with the WD40 and waste the WD40. where to dispose the WD40 bathing liquid after the bath, what? 20ml or something?? .. if it were water or a simple 1x short spraying, i would do it more often.

btw, i never take a bath either, at least it doesnt harm the environment and nature if one flushes bathing water apart from the waste of water imho. but bathing WD40 liquid? where to flush it please?? it's like solving one problem (the flickering) and by that creating another problem (where to dispose the excess of the WD40 bathing liquid), again apart from the waste of chemical substance.

if you do it hush hush and simply dispose the WD40 liquid in *your kitchen sink*, then you could be done within 5mins (record time). If you take your time, it'll take 10mins.


----------



## nofearek9

can you install spherical lense on e03 ? has anyone tryed it?


----------



## tobrien

nofearek9 said:


> can you install spherical lense on e03 ? has anyone tryed it?



I haven't heard of that before but it's a good idea!


----------



## tickled

I noticed today that there's a new U2 cool white version of this light up on a certain HK retailer's site. It seems to add hidden flashing modes but I don't see any other changes.


----------



## nofearek9

*edit*

i found the seller ,the specs of the new U2 are :

HDE Engine-XENO unique Quiet RSLTM​ LED driverLinear LED driver, Not PWM mode
Non-Flickering and Absolutely Noiseless even at Ultra-Low level
With Ultra-Low output, more than 20 hrs burning time
· CREE XM-L U2 Max (OTF) 460 Lumens


Vs the T6 :

DE2 Engine-XENO unique Quiet RSLTM​ LED driverLinear LED driver, Not PWM mode
Non-Flickering and Absolutely Noiseless even at Ultra-Low level
With Ultra-Low output, more than 20 hrs burning time
· CREE XM-L T6 Max (OTF) 430 Lumens

i gues will make it better thrower.


----------



## tickled

tickled said:


> I noticed today that there's a new U2 cool white version of this light up on a certain HK retailer's site. It seems to add hidden flashing modes but I don't see any other changes.


 It looks like the neutral white (5000K) version has been updated too. Hidden flashing modes and flux bin bumped up by one to T6 (again) from T5.


----------



## Mr Floppy

Does anyone know if the battery extender tube on the E15 will fit the E03? 

Just wondering what happens when you run 2AA with the E03.


----------



## nofearek9

i guess the same output as the 3v AA primarys.

anyone can confirm the diference between the leds T6 Vs U2 is just the extra lumens or the U2 is more floud as well?


----------



## Mr Floppy

nofearek9 said:


> i guess the same output as the 3v AA primarys.



So possibly like the E15 then? So the modes might be 1V-2V is 1AA, 2V-3.4V is 2AA, CR123A etc, 3.4V-4.2V is Li-ion etc.


----------



## nofearek9

i dont know if its fit ,but looks like will work fine with 2xAA but why go to the trouble you can get cheap 14500 with charger for $15.


----------



## jasonck08

Mr Floppy said:


> Does anyone know if the battery extender tube on the E15 will fit the E03?
> 
> Just wondering what happens when you run 2AA with the E03.



Yes it will, but the E15 tube is not for sale individually. The E15 is hard anodized level III, includes a diffuser wand, and obviously supports 1AA or 2AA's or 1x 14500. Other than that they are very similar lights and use the same driver.



nofearek9 said:


> i guess the same output as the 3v AA primarys.
> 
> anyone can confirm the diference between the leds T6 Vs U2 is just the extra lumens or the U2 is more floud as well?



It will be about 6-7% brighter on average. The U2 and T6 are both XM-L emitters so they will have exactly the same beam profile. Because it is a slight bit brighter it will have a tiny tiny bit better throw.


----------



## Mr Floppy

nofearek9 said:


> but why go to the trouble you can get cheap 14500



I don't like cheap and Li-ion but the main purpose is that I'd like to get a NW, warm white and the U2. It looks like the U2 will be a E03 so the E15 will have to be either the neutral or the warm.



jasonck08 said:


> Yes it will, but the E15 tube is not for sale individually. The E15 is hard anodized level III, includes a diffuser wand, and obviously supports 1AA or 2AA's or 1x 14500. Other than that they are very similar lights and use the same driver.



Thanks, just have to work out which combination to get. Any benefit with a XP-G over the XM-L in the neutral or the warm?


----------



## jasonck08

Mr Floppy said:


> Thanks, just have to work out which combination to get. Any benefit with a XP-G over the XM-L in the neutral or the warm?



XP-G may throw a little better, but XM-L is going be floodier and more efficient and brighter by ~10-20% or so depending on the drive level and battery type.


----------



## kreisl

Has anyone got the new version (XM-U2, with new switch and improvements)?
I would welcome photos of those details (spare switch, ..), thanks


----------



## Daddy of 2

selfbuilt said:


> Here you go - f2.7, 1/100sec exposure for both (no diffuser first, diffuser second) Here you go - f2.7, 1/100sec exposure for both (no diffuser first, diffuser second)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally, I like this diffuser better than most other wand ones. The flat top gives you a very even beam - a lot of the conical ones tend to still produce some centre throw. Although my preferred diffuser is always a thin flat one over the lens.
> 
> Note again the diffuser does not come with the light - it is an optional accessory to be purchased separately.


Does the diffuser get really hot after extended use?


----------



## riccardo.dv

No it doesn't, with a 14500 only the light becomes warm

Tapatalk @Xperia Arc S


----------



## nofearek9

the new switch is the white


----------



## kreisl

nofearek9 said:


> the new switch is the white



Thanks for photo.
Nice white switch, I love white!! :thumbsup:


----------



## tobrien

nofearek9 said:


> the new switch is the white



thanks for posting that!


----------



## maybehope30

*who have the pictures about XENO E03 V3 LED flashlight ?*

I hear that the XENO E03 V3 LED flashlight is very good, and I want to see the pictures about it, some people can take the real pictures of it to me ?


----------



## tobrien

maybehope30 said:


> *who have the pictures about XENO E03 V3 LED flashlight ?*
> 
> I hear that the XENO E03 V3 LED flashlight is very good, and I want to see the pictures about it, some people can take the real pictures of it to me ?



it's the exact same


----------



## Kbreese

I just bought one of these Xeno E03 v3's with XM-U2 along with these 1450 batteries: http://dx.com/p/trustfire-protected...6124?rt=1&p=2&m=2&r=3&k=1&t=1&s=39062&u=26124
and this charger: http://dx.com/p/trustfire-tr-001-mu...2594?rt=1&p=2&m=2&r=3&k=1&t=1&s=26124&u=12594

My question is am I safe using those batteries and that charger? Someone earlier in the thread mentioned something about hearing bad things about ****fire batteries which got me concerned. I don't want this light blowing up in my hands when I have it on high. To my understanding ultrafire batteries are not very good but the trustfire ones are, even though they are cheap. But want to be sure. Please advise! Thanks!


----------



## nofearek9

i have the same compination ,just dont let the batteries charging without you be near ,when the light goes green remove the batteries. when you will need better batteries try AW ,will work fine with this charger again when led goes green you have to remove them.


----------



## Kbreese

nofearek9 said:


> when you will need better batteries try AW ,will work fine with this charger



What do you mean by this? What does AW mean?


----------



## Tyler___Durden

*Please use your imaginations to fill in the blank space below
with some batteries!!!*
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Duracell or Eveready or Energiser 


__ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ __ __ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ 


See Rule #3 Do not Hot Link images. Please host on an image site, Imageshack or similar and repost – Thanks Norm



I see you have removed a link to an image used to accompany a message and suggested that I use imageshack or another image hosting site. If I copied the image as you suggested that would be an copyright infringment, whereas the way I have done it is totally legal. I appreciate that some companies do not permit linking images - however if that is the case it is trivial for them to put their images in a protected directory or use other means to prevent this happening. In the case of candlepowerforums.com, this hardly a high volume site and linking images will not cause probems for any website these days - perhaps bandwidth was an issue in the early days of the internet even though Tim Berners-Lee specifically envisioned the www to work that way. Indeed good HTML5 web design today specifically encourages all sorts of cross site content sharing. Oh, AW is a battery brand.


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## nofearek9

if in the future you will going to buy a better brand of 14500 batteries ,prefer the AW brand.


----------



## Kbreese

nofearek9 said:


> if in the future you will going to buy a better brand of 14500 batteries ,prefer the AW brand.



Oh ok, I thought the trustfire's were supposed to be decent batteries.

One other question with regards to this new cool white u2 version. Will that put out about 500 actual lumens on high with a 14500?


----------



## nofearek9

are not bad batteries but there are lot of fakes copies in the market.
the specs of the led for sure its better,compared them with the eye u2 looks a bit brighter.


----------



## Kbreese

Ok I just went back and looked at the chart again, and it looks like he got 510 lumens from the nuetral white one?? Is that right?? And that's with the xm-L model before the upgrades and the nuetral white is not as bright as the cw. So that would make the new and improved Cw u2 like 600 lumens? That can't be right...


----------



## nofearek9

when i measured the stock driver of the xeno e03 was about 2,4 Amps so from the specs of the led yes its possible,but of course the small flashlight will get hot.


----------



## Korgath

kreisl said:


> Has anyone got the new version (XM-U2, with new switch and improvements)?
> I would welcome photos of those details (spare switch, ..), thanks



Yes that would be great! Maybe selfbuilt to the rescue with a refresher of the review!!?


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## nofearek9

check the post #197 are the fotos of the new switch


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## Fulaeetoy

About the new switch, can these be sold separately? Also, anyone tried to use sanyo's 2500mah xx batts? I want to replace my old eneloops and i hope to get more juice for emergency situation.

________________________
Sent using Tapatalk


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## nofearek9

yes you can buy the new switch from the place you bought the flashlight.


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## Naguz

Fulaeetoy said:


> About the new switch, can these be sold separately? Also, anyone tried to use sanyo's 2500mah xx batts? I want to replace my old eneloops and i hope to get more juice for emergency situation.


If i'm not mis-remebering, the XX-batts doesn't have as good charge retention as the normal eneloops. Might be better to store an extra normal eneloop together with the flashlight? If the deiffreneces weren't all that big, you'd of course still be better of with a single xx than a single normal one.

Does anyone know if the light still come with the metal box, or does it come with a plastic packaging now? Concidering ordering this from TacticalHid as a gift, so a metal box would be nice. I saw some pictures of it in plastic packaging on another site, however.


----------



## tickled

Naguz said:


> If i'm not mis-remebering, the XX-batts doesn't have as good charge retention as the normal eneloops. Might be better to store an extra normal eneloop together with the flashlight? If the deiffreneces weren't all that big, you'd of course still be better of with a single xx than a single normal one. Does anyone know if the light still come with the metal box, or does it come with a plastic packaging now? Concidering ordering this from TacticalHid as a gift, so a metal box would be nice. I saw some pictures of it in plastic packaging on another site, however.


 When I purchased mine earlier in the year, it was in the cardboard+plastic clamshell packaging.


----------



## cruzer

sorry to bump an older thread, but i just wanted to thank selfbuilt for the review. now i just need to do a little research to make sure there are no better $30 flashlights before i buy it!


----------



## Fulaeetoy

Naguz said:


> If i'm not mis-remebering, the XX-batts doesn't have as good charge retention as the normal eneloops. Might be better to store an extra normal eneloop together with the flashlight? If the deiffreneces weren't all that big, you'd of course still be better of with a single xx than a single normal one.
> 
> Does anyone know if the light still come with the metal box, or does it come with a plastic packaging now? Concidering ordering this from TacticalHid as a gift, so a metal box would be nice. I saw some pictures of it in plastic packaging on another site, however.



I recently purchased Sanyo harmolattice 2500mah batts. I was amazed that it was a little brighter than my old Eneloops. I think it's time for me to change my old eneloops batts.

_________________________________________
Sent from GT-P6800 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Zman

How does this light compare in overall value vs a Lumapower Connexion x2, which can be purchased for 25$ shipped? From the old selfbuilt review, the output is a bit less, but runtimes appear longer. Any thoughts anyone?

Connexion review http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...SONS-etc&highlight=connexion+selfbuilt+review


----------



## MIKES250R

Just received my Xeno E03 and I really like this little booger especially with the 14500. Is the AW 14500 still the battery to beat? Thanks to you guys for turning me on to this one,what a bargain!


----------



## namida

My sibs and I bought a pair for my father and mother. These will be our gifts to them this Christmas with a sanyo charger and a pack of XX eneloops thrown in. They are easy to operate, good beam, and I think the build is really nice. Thanks for the review!


----------



## DAN92

I bought the version of the Xeno E03 with XM-L HDE U2 and T6.

The switch is more efficient and so much better to do with time.


----------



## MojaveMoon07

While researching the E03 XML and E15 XML for someone who would be using it with AA eneloops, I found comments from an E03 owner whose observation is that his E03 is not regulated.

I'm puzzled by those findings because in selfbuilt's graphs on page one on an eneloop the E03 seems to do a great job of maintaining a steady level of brightness.



> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?323655-AA-Bug-Out-Bag-Best-Light/page2
> TG; I'll add my support for the E03. It's a little cannon on a 14500; I have a neutral one in black and it's my secondary/backup light. I keep it in a Quark AA holster on the strap of my EDC bag for times when I need a lot of light but not a lot of run time. The only things about it I don't like for EDC use are that it's got no real low-low, especially on a 14500, and it's not regulated, so it dims as the cell in it depletes. I think it does this less with an Eneloop, but I've never really run mine with one much, so I can't say. With an AWP 14500 it definitely does get noticeably dimmer, on all settings, as the cell depletes.
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?325904-What-warm-or-neutral-helmet-mounted-torch
> The E03 is a dedicated 1xAA light and is available with cool, neutral, or warm tint emitters. You can use a li-ion 14500 in them to make them into a real pocket rocket, but they give decent performance on 1xAA as well, and longer run times. They aren't regulated though, so as the battery depletes they get progressively dimmer [...]
> 
> The E15 is a fancier version of the E03. As far as I know it uses the same set of emitter options and driver, so it will perform just like an E03. The difference is it comes with an extender for the body, so you can run it as either a 1xAA or 2xAA light [...]


----------



## selfbuilt

MojaveMoon07 said:


> While researching the E03 XML and E15 XML for someone who would be using it with AA eneloops, I found comments from an E03 owner whose observation is that his E03 is not regulated. I'm puzzled by those findings because in selfbuilt's graphs on page one on an eneloop the E03 seems to do a great job of maintaining a steady level of brightness.


I suspect both commentators you quoted are referring to 1x14500 specifically (it isn't entirely clear from the quotes, but that seems to be the context). As you'll see in my runtimes, it is largely direct-drive-like on the higher voltage 14500 source. But all versions of this light should show comparable regulated performance on NiMH, as shown in this review.


----------



## MojaveMoon07

Thank you, selfbuilt, for your help. That is a relief to hear.


----------



## markr6

I just ordered one of these with the Nichia 219. Since I got my L10, I fell in love with this tint!! However, the UI and operation of the L10 really disappointed me. Although I really prefer forward clickies, this Xeno E03 looks like a good fit for me (1xAA, Nichia 219, clicky)


----------



## markr6

I received my first Xeno E03 w/ Nichia 219 last night so here's a few remarks.

Cons:
- I don't really like the switch because it takes too much effort to click. You really need to get your thumb tip in there or just use index finger. Maybe I'm just too used to the non-recessed forward clickies?
- I was also surprised how much bigger it is than something like the L10 or Fenix E11. Not a huge con, but there's much better 1xAA EDC options available.
- Glow in the dark switch cover makes it look cheap and doesn't really work after a short time anyway.
- Mine also has the ring around the beam but it's only noticable when wall hunting.
- No clip

Neutral/Undecided:
- It has more throw than the L10 but I woudn't say the beam is TOO focused like some lights. More of a con for me since I tend to favor floody lights.
- Pretty nice UI. I like how the hidden flashy modes require 3 quick clicks. I would prefer a High>Med>Low, but I know others would prefer a L>M>H. Can't please everyone!

Pros:
- Beautiful tint with the Nichia 219 as expected
- Tail stands!!
- Quality is good, especially for the price. GITD ring around reflector is a nice touch. Red and blue finish look really nice!

Overall, it's a pretty good light for the price, but the cons definitely keep me from purchasing additional lights. Because of the size and lack of pocket clip, I would classify this as a nice car/around the house type torch.


----------



## RoadStar

markr6 said:


> I just ordered one of these with the Nichia 219. Since I got my L10, I fell in love with this tint!! However, the UI and operation of the L10 really disappointed me. Although I really prefer forward clickies, this Xeno E03 looks like a good fit for me (1xAA, Nichia 219, clicky)



Hi markr6, new member here. I'm on the fence between the L10 Nichia and the Eo3 Nichia and concerned about the output comparison, I already have an E03 XML NW but never had an L10, since you have both of these with nichia could you please inform if one of these is significantly brighter than the other?


----------



## markr6

RoadStar said:


> Hi markr6, new member here. I'm on the fence between the L10 Nichia and the Eo3 Nichia and concerned about the output comparison, I already have an E03 XML NW but never had an L10, since you have both of these with nichia could you please inform if one of these is significantly brighter than the other?



Well I would say the actual output is very close when they are both on high. Tint is exactly the same. The difference comes in with the throw. The E03 has a deeper reflector so it will throw further with a tighter hot spot. I prefer the L10 since it's beam is perfect in my opinion; a big hot spot but very smooth transition into spill. It still throws a decent amount for a single AA light, especially for how small it is.

They are both great lights. I think they complement each other well since they have identical tints but very different beams. I'll use my L10 for walking the dog or cleaning up his mess in the yard, random house work, etc. I'll take the E03 for more throw but personally I don't have many uses for these. I need a floodier light 9/10 times.

I may try to get a beam shot comparison, unless someone beats me to it!


----------



## jamesmyname

markr6 said:


> I may try to get a beam shot comparison, unless someone beats me to it!



I'd appreciate a beam shot, too. It would also be great if you could do a side-by-side pic of the lights. I know the L10 is smaller, but it's hard to gauge by how much. I'm also trying to decide between the two for my first Nichia 219 light. Thanks!


----------



## RoadStar

markr6 said:


> Well I would say the actual output is very close when they are both on high. Tint is exactly the same. The difference comes in with the throw. The E03 has a deeper reflector so it will throw further with a tighter hot spot. I prefer the L10 since it's beam is perfect in my opinion; a big hot spot but very smooth transition into spill. It still throws a decent amount for a single AA light, especially for how small it is.
> 
> They are both great lights. I think they complement each other well since they have identical tints but very different beams. I'll use my L10 for walking the dog or cleaning up his mess in the yard, random house work, etc. I'll take the E03 for more throw but personally I don't have many uses for these. I need a floodier light 9/10 times.
> 
> I may try to get a beam shot comparison, unless someone beats me to it!



Thanks for the fast reply and detailed information, when you compare the two are they both running on the same battery type? My E03 is much brighter on Li-ion, I'm pretty sure the L10 does not support Li-ion. 

BTW, for the Xeno, an older style LumaPower IncenDio clip fits the e03 perfectly between the body and tail cap. 
I also swapped out the tail switch boot with a black one from Fenix (again a perfect fit)

Got my clips directly from Lumapower 

It’s the washer style clip (not the wire style)

I’ve seen some other clips that will fit, but all were the push on style and no where near as nice and sturdy as this one.


Here's a picture of mine with the clip:


----------



## markr6

RoadStar said:


> Thanks for the fast reply and detailed information, when you compare the two are they both running on the same battery type? My E03 is much brighter on Li-ion, I'm pretty sure the L10 does not support Li-ion.
> 
> BTW, for the Xeno, an older style LumaPower IncenDio clip fits the e03 perfectly between the body and tail cap.
> I also swapped out the tail switch boot with a black one from Fenix (again a perfect fit)
> 
> Got my clips directly from Lumapower
> 
> It’s the washer style clip (not the wire style)
> 
> I’ve seen some other clips that will fit, but all were the push on style and no where near as nice and sturdy as this one.
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of mine with the clip:



That clip looks great! I run Eneloops in both of them. In the L10 threads, some members report using 14500 all the time without any issues. I'll try this, but probably just to test then back to Eneloops for daily use.


----------



## yoyoman

I have both the L3 Illumination L10 Nichia 219 and the Xeno EO3 Nichia 219. I run the L10 on 14500 Li-ions and get all levels. If I run the E03 on a 14500, I lose levels and (from what I've read) regulation. I put an Eneloop in the EO3 to get all levels. The E03 is a sturdy light, the fit and finish are good and overall it is good value. But it is much bigger than the L10 and I'm not crazy about the reverse clicky. If you are wall hunting with the EO3, you'll see the rings. I think both lights are good value and I like the light that the Nichia 219 emitter puts out.


----------



## markr6

Here's an indoor beamshot comparing the E03 and L10 - both Nichia 219 on high about 12' away from door. I shot this during the day and it was not completely dark in here so they may be a little washed out.





And the ring on the E03 when wall hunting (I don't notice it at all during normal use):






And a useful comparison:


----------



## Mr Floppy

markr6 said:


> Well I would say the actual output is very close when they are both on high.



I concur. The E03 on a single AA puts 350mA to the LED. I don't know what the L10 does but I'm guessing it's the same even though at the tail cap, the E03 pulls 2.1A - 2.2A and the L10 pulls 1.9A. It is just a bit brighter than the E03 on LiIon low, which puts 300mA to the LED. You can't tell the difference unless you have a light meter and even then, the readings are so close anyway, at least on a ceiling bounce. 



yoyoman said:


> If I run the E03 on a 14500, I lose levels and (from what I've read) regulation.



What you should get at the LED should be 300mA on low, 1A on medium and the full 1.5A on high. Bare emitter wise, there's about 100 lumens difference between those levels I think. I have month before my 14500's arrive so I'll do a test then.


----------



## RoadStar

yoyoman said:


> If I run the E03 on a 14500, I lose levels and (from what I've read) regulation.


 On my E03 (with T6 NW) I don't lose the levels although high and medium are fairly close, when using outdoors there is still a pretty good difference between high and medium. Low is brighter than it is on a duracell but on 14500 it's still a lot lower that medium. And yes the regulation must be lost because on 14500 it does get dimmer as the battery discharges.


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## jamesmyname

Thanks for the helpful pics, markr6. I've made a decision, I want them both! Although I think I'll get the L10 first, as I currently want a very small AA light to EDC.


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## markr6

jamesmyname said:


> Thanks for the helpful pics, markr6. I've made a decision, I want them both! Although I think I'll get the L10 first, as I currently want a very small AA light to EDC.



The size makes the L10 a great EDC. And I just recently tried a 14500 Li-Ion in the Xeno E03...WOW! It basically gives you a high mode and two "little bit higher" modes


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## hatman

RoadStar said:


> Thanks for the fast reply and detailed information, when you compare the two are they both running on the same battery type? My E03 is much brighter on Li-ion, I'm pretty sure the L10 does not support Li-ion.
> 
> BTW, for the Xeno, an older style LumaPower IncenDio clip fits the e03 perfectly between the body and tail cap.
> I also swapped out the tail switch boot with a black one from Fenix (again a perfect fit)
> 
> Got my clips directly from Lumapower
> 
> It’s the washer style clip (not the wire style)
> 
> I’ve seen some other clips that will fit, but all were the push on style and no where near as nice and sturdy as this one.
> 
> 
> Here's a picture of mine with the clip:



RoadStar -- thanks for the tip.

Just got my clip. Not exactly deep pocket but it works fine.

Had to remove one of the two O-rings. Unsure what effect that may have.


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## MojaveMoon07

*Xeno E03 219 + Fenix AD401 diffuser = ?*

What I hope will be ideal for a family member is a Xeno E03 219 paired with a Fenix AD401 diffuser

E03 diam 21.5mm ; AD401 fits any flashlight "_with a diameter of 20 mm -21.5 mm_"

Will this diffuser fit it okay and stay on okay, and what will the new diffused beam pattern look like _(verbal description or picture)_ ?

If anyone has either both of these or a AD401 diffuser + a Xeno E03 with an LED with a similar hotspot, may I ask you at your convenience to try them together ?


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## Mr Floppy

*Re: Xeno E03 219 + Fenix AD401 diffuser = ?*



MojaveMoon07 said:


> Will this diffuser fit it okay and stay on okay, and what will the new diffused beam pattern look like _(verbal description or picture)_ ?



Yes and yes but the glare out the side from the thing is horrible. They had a version which had black sides (similar but not the AD03) that worked much better. It was in their accessories gift pack which came with a white and orange wand diffuser, red filter and the black sided one. 

The beam pattern is ugly and you still see a bit of a hot spot. Splotchy is how I would describe it, but still quite useful if it wasn't for the glare.


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## AmperSand

markr6 said:


> Here's an indoor beamshot comparing the E03 and L10 - both Nichia 219 on high about 12' away from door. I shot this during the day and it was not completely dark in here so they may be a little washed out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the ring on the E03 when wall hunting (I don't notice it at all during normal use):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a useful comparison:



I had that awful ring on my e03 219 also.
Reflector isnt sitting deep enough. I removed the plastic isolating disc between the reflector and emitter, beam is now flawless.


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## MojaveMoon07

*Re: Xeno E03 219 + Fenix AD401 diffuser = ?*



Mr Floppy said:


> Yes and yes but the glare out the side from the thing is horrible. They had a version which had black sides (similar but not the AD03) that worked much better. It was in their accessories gift pack which came with a white and orange wand diffuser, red filter and the black sided one.
> 
> The beam pattern is ugly and you still see a bit of a hot spot. Splotchy is how I would describe it, but still quite useful if it wasn't for the glare.






Thank you for your help.

Would something like a strip of black electrical tape around the side appreciably reduce the glare ?

It sounds like the combination of the glare and the splotchy beam pattern could cancel the special benefits of the Nichia 219 ? If it were possible to minimize the glare with something like electrical tape, is the splotchy/ugly beam pattern appreciable enough that it would cancel the benefit of the Nichia 219 ?

In the post above mine, AmperSand says that the reflector is not sitting deep enough and that he has a ring in the pattern. Could that be partly responsible for the splotchy beam pattern with the AD401 on the E03 ?


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## Mr Floppy

*Re: Xeno E03 219 + Fenix AD401 diffuser = ?*



MojaveMoon07 said:


> Would something like a strip of black electrical tape around the side appreciably reduce the glare ?



Yes, electrical tape would help it a lot. Even the one with black sides has glare, mainly from the hinge. 

The splotchy beam pattern happens with any light, and it will cancel out the ring at least. You probably wouldn't notice it is use but DC-fix film would probably be smoother though.


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## MojaveMoon07

Thank you Mr Floppy. I appreciate the time you have taken to help me


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## RoadStar

hatman said:


> RoadStar -- thanks for the tip.
> 
> Just got my clip. Not exactly deep pocket but it works fine.
> 
> Had to remove one of the two O-rings. Unsure what effect that may have.



Glad I could help, good to know that Lumapower clip is still available...
after a little over two years use my clip finally broke after snagging it on something and it bent outward. Glad I ordered 2 clips back when then! maybe I should order some more while the can still be had.


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## RoadStar

markr6 said:


> And a useful comparison:



Thanks for the size comparison photo, this is very helpful, I'm quite surprised at how much smaller the L10 is, against the e03 it looks like a AAA light!


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## Impulses

Are the E03 with Nichia 219 still available nywhere? 

I'm getting my parents a couple of these for around the house, size + mode sequence + clicky seems perfect for them. I figured I'd just order from Illumination Supply since I've had a good experience with them (and it'd come out to $27 per light for two E03, with shipping, after discount)... 

But then I thought it'd be nice to try a Nichia 219 for the first time, IS only has the XM-L T6 NW version tho...


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## Mr Floppy

Impulses said:


> Are the E03 with Nichia 219 still available nywhere?



They are a special run from EDC+ so you won't find them anywhere else. Currently out of stock but there will be more coming, perhaps in the next couple of months.


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## nofearek9

yeap is the only shop have them with AR lens as well. ( http://edcplus.com )


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## Impulses

Cool, thanks, I'll keep an eye out for them... I'd get an L3 Illumination L10 just to try out the Nichia 219 for cheap but the E03 seems more useful for my purposes (if I want small I'll go for an i3/AAA/etc light) and they aren't readily available either, though IS does have the black one in stock (rest of the colors are out stock and a couple of the other stores that stock it all seem to charge too much to ship to Puerto Rico).

Kinda hard to justify getting too many of these when I can get something like an Olight S15 (with clip, magnet, and extender tube) for $5 more but I could probably find use for one myself... I don't really collect lights (yet?), everything I've bought has had a specific use/place. My parents couldn't give a flip about the tint tho so the XM-L will do for them. Let's see, two of these plus a Quantum D2 should get me right near $100 for free shipping...


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