# Amilite T5 SSC P4 LED - Mini Review (many pictures and beamshots)



## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

Just recived this little 1xCR123A Amilite T5 EDC SSC P4 flashlight today, one flashlight I have bean very exited about, ever since I saw it fot the first time I was sold! This is my first SSC P4 flashlight, and it will defently not be my last.

Very well constructed HAIII with no flaws, 2-Stage Reverse clicky is good and smooth, only weighs 65g _WITH_ battery and handstrap.

Well sizes for an EDC 1x123A flashlight with clicky (reverse), just a bit shorter than Fenix L1D-CE.

Nice textures aluminium reflector (OP-Type), gives a good and flooody/smooth beam (not the best thrower though). The flashlight is amazingly bright and has got a little blue tint to it, though nothing you nitice exept when comparing it to other flashlights.

The T5 came in a nice giftbox with the (I think) best handstrap and with extra blue o-rings (the installed is black), plus a quick guide. No pounch and no extra rubber switch cover, thats ok I think.

One thing i found quite strange, is that you can not change the battery by unscrewing the tailcap, only from under the head, the body inner dia. is smaller in the tail end, and not even a AA battery would fit in, so you have to unscrew the head to change the batteries, no problem, jst at bit strange I think.

You can get this little flashlight directly from Amilite here: www.amilite.co.kr

The flashlight comes in 2 versions, one with 15 lumens low and another 30 lumens low. I can only say GET this little EDC flashlight you wont regret it.

Enough readings for you guys, now to some pictures ...














From left: Lumapower M1, Lumapower LP-Mini, Fenix L1D-CE, Amilite T5





































And now to some beamshots, alla beamshots are about 1m from the wall, all flashlight is using protected 3.7v Li-Ion batteries from AW, and all flashlights on High:

Left: T5, Right: L1D-CE




Left: T5, Right: L1D-CE, 2-Stops Underexposed




Left: T5, Right: LP-Mini OP Reflector




Left: T5, Right: LP-Mini OP Reflector, 2-Stops Underexposed




Left: T5, Right: M1 XR-E OP Reflector




Left: T5, Right: M1 XR-E OP Reflector, 2-Stops Underexposed





---

Updates: RCR123A compared to primary CR123A
Updates: Low works fine on RCR123A
Updates: Is the low setting brighter with R123 vs primary
Updates: Throw compared to the L1D-CE, LP-Mini, M1 XR-E
Updates: Compared T5 LOW to M1 XR-E LOW

---

Update: Added some runtime tests below.

_Rechargeable_: Runtime with AW's protected 3.7v high current 750mah RCR123A cell: *19* min *14* sec
_Rechargeable_: Runtime with protected rechargeable Uniross 600mah CR123A cell: *33 *min *33 *sec
_Primary_: Runtime with primary Tekcell 2.9v CR123A cell:
After *1* Hour the cell went from *2.9*v to *2.49*v.
After *1* hour *6* minutes the output was about *50*% or lower.
After *1* hour *47* minutes the output was about at *20*% or lower.
After *1* hour *48* minutes the T5 starts flashing and dim even more.
After *12* hours still little output (see pic below), the cell down to *1.64*v, stopped the test here.

After 12 hours, this is the output coming from the flashlight, 30cm from wall:





---

Update: Comparison between the M1 SSC P4 and Amilite T5
Update: More beam shots on distance of 12-14m vs various flashlights


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## LA OZ (Mar 6, 2007)

nice review. Thank you.


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## LightScene (Mar 6, 2007)

Thanks for the nice review and pictures.
Which of your 4 flashlights do you like the best?


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

LightScene said:


> Thanks for the nice review and pictures.
> Which of your 4 flashlights do you like the best?


 That’s a hard question. I like the beam from the T5 best, NO ring, I like the UI from the L1D-CE best, and like the throwing capacity from the LP-Mini and also the M1 XR-E which also have amazingly long runtime.

So I likes some things from all my flashlight, though the T5 would be my EDC from now on (used to carry the L1D-CE), and I think the T5 would be my nr. 1 choice when I gone hiking, because it is lightweight, small, and simple hi/low output, floody beam, and NO ring . Would though be nice with a tactical switch, and if it could tail stand.

Though if I had to select one, right now I would go for the T5, like the ring less beam very much, a smooth beam is more important than IU and throw for me .


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## Chao (Mar 6, 2007)

Great thanks whc :goodjob:, does T5 much brighter with R123A than with primary cell?


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## pilou (Mar 6, 2007)

Which low setting version did you get, 15 or 30 lumens?


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

Chao said:


> Great thanks whc :goodjob:, does T5 much brighter with R123A than with primary cell?



Can't see much differense, maybe a tad brighter with RCR123A compared to primary CR123A?

Here with the RCR123A 3.7v protected AW







Here with the CR123A 3.0v primary Tekcell


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

pilou said:


> Which low setting version did you get, 15 or 30 lumens?


 I have the 15 lumens version.


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## Chao (Mar 6, 2007)

whc said:


> Can't see much differense, maybe a tad brighter with RCR123A compared to primary CR123A?
> 
> Here with the RCR123A 3.7v protected AW
> 
> ...



wow, using CR123A still as bright as R123A, thanks!


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## clipse (Mar 6, 2007)

Awesome. I can't wait to get mine.


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## Eric242 (Mar 6, 2007)

I am really curious if the body is switchable with Neo T3? Those who prefer the light even smaller and a twisty could convert it that way.

Eric


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## farscape105 (Mar 6, 2007)

Sorry if I missed this, but does low work with R123's?


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## clipse (Mar 6, 2007)

Eric242 said:


> I am really curious if the body is switchable with Neo T3? Those who prefer the light even smaller and a twisty could convert it that way.
> 
> Eric



In another thread someone said the manufacturer said it was. I'll confirm that when I get my T5


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## Eric242 (Mar 6, 2007)

Nice! I might get a T5 then too.

Eric


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## Phaserburn (Mar 6, 2007)

Is the low setting brighter with R123 vs primary?


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## bray (Mar 6, 2007)

hows the throw compared to the l1d on 14500


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## Lumenation (Mar 6, 2007)

Can you please compare the brightness on LOW to some other light that you have. Is the low excellent for general purpose use. Also, does the light have to go through both low and high, or does it turn directly off after low. Also, if it does go off, does it turn onto high the next time you turn it on? I have been waiting for a great SSC light, could this be the one?


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## jsr (Mar 6, 2007)

Wow, the T5 looks sweet! The way the battery's loaded is the same way Surefire uses on their E-series (load through head end of tube) as the tail end necks down to the threads to allow the tailcap to thread on w/o increasing diameter.

I'm interested in Lumenation's question about whether it can be clicked off at any time and what the next mode is when clicked back on.

Also, is the "low" mode higher on an R123A?...or about the same?


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## clipse (Mar 6, 2007)

Lumenation said:


> Can you please compare the brightness on LOW to some other light that you have. Is the low excellent for general purpose use. Also, does the light have to go through both low and high, or does it turn directly off after low. Also, if it does go off, does it turn onto high the next time you turn it on? I have been waiting for a great SSC light, could this be the one?



The manufacturer states the clickie sequence is (from off) click it (on low) click it again (on high) click it again (off) then the sequence repeats its self.


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

Eric242 said:


> I am really curious if the body is switchable with Neo T3? Those who prefer the light even smaller and a twisty could convert it that way.
> 
> Eric


 The head from T5 will fit on a T3 body...


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

farscape105 said:


> Sorry if I missed this, but does low work with R123's?


 Yes low works fine on RCR123A ...

Low 15 lumens on AW's 3.7v Li-Ion protected R123A





High 140+ lumens on AW's 3.7v Li-Ion protected R123A





It is hard to capture the difference between low and high with a camera, there is more difference between low and high than it appears on the photos.


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

Phaserburn said:


> Is the low setting brighter with R123 vs primary?



I would say it is about the same brightness on low with both types of batteries.

Low 15 lumens on AW's protected 3.7v R123A




Low 15 lumens on Primary 3.0v CR123A


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

bray said:


> hows the throw compared to the l1d on 14500



The L1D-CE has a tighter spot, so it will throw longer than the T5 I think, the T5's beam is more floody, I have taken some throw shots, though some is not so good (night shot, a bit shaky). All flashlights using 1x3.7v Li-Ion battery from AW.

Amilite T5 High




Fenix L1D-CE High




Lumapower LP-Mini OP-Reflector




Lumapower M1 XR-E OP-Reflector


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

Lumenation said:


> Can you please compare the brightness on LOW to some other light that you have. Is the low excellent for general purpose use. Also, does the light have to go through both low and high, or does it turn directly off after low. Also, if it does go off, does it turn onto high the next time you turn it on? I have been waiting for a great SSC light, could this be the one?



I think the 15 lumens low is just perfect, just enough to light the way, for reading, and so on, without blinding you completely .

It is OFF->LOW->HIGH->OFF

I have compared it to my Lumapower M1 XR-E with the 2-Stage switch, same kind as the T5 has, both running on protected 3.7v Li-Ion batteries.

Left: Amilite T5 Low 15 lumens, Right: Lumapower M1 XR-E OP Low




Left: Amilite T5 Low 15 lumens, Right: Lumapower M1 XR-E OP Low, 2-Stops Underexposed


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## whc (Mar 6, 2007)

jsr said:


> Wow, the T5 looks sweet! The way the battery's loaded is the same way Surefire uses on their E-series (load through head end of tube) as the tail end necks down to the threads to allow the tailcap to thread on w/o increasing diameter.



Ahh that's why, nice that explains why it has about the same diameters as the AA based L1D-CE (only a tiny bit fatter on the body part). It makes my Lumapower LP-Mini seams quite big and bulky .



jsr said:


> I'm interested in Lumenation's question about whether it can be clicked off at any time and what the next mode is when clicked back on.



Its a simple 2-Stage Reverse Clicky: OFF->LOW->HIGH->OFF and then over again, very simple.



jsr said:


> Also, is the "low" mode higher on an R123A?...or about the same?



See post #22 .


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## pilou (Mar 6, 2007)

whc said:


> I have the 15 lumens version.


 
Do you feel the 15 lumens setting is bright enough say to navigate in a dark house? I don't have any of the other lights you comapred it too, so how does the 15 lumen setting compare to say an Inova X1? Do you feel a slightly brighter 30 lumens would have been better?

Btwy, thanks for all the sections of this extended review


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## Lumenation (Mar 6, 2007)

Please!! Give me a good reason NOT to buy this light.


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## PhantomPhoton (Mar 7, 2007)

It's just too bad...
SSC P4 :rock:
Good Reflector/ Beam :naughty:
HA III 
REVERSE CLICKY :sick2: 

$80  I'd gladly pay $90 on the Amlight for a tactical or true clicky.
What a shame. Anyone know of a compatable switch that doesnt blow?


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

pilou said:


> Do you feel the 15 lumens setting is bright enough say to navigate in a dark house? I don't have any of the other lights you comapred it too, so how does the 15 lumen setting compare to say an Inova X1? Do you feel a slightly brighter 30 lumens would have been better?
> 
> Btwy, thanks for all the sections of this extended review



The 15 lumens is more than enough to navigate indoor, it can lighten up a small room pretty good, enough to see what is in that room. I think it is a matter of taste, I like the low to be really low, so for me the 15 lumens is perfect.

Don't know how the low is compared to Inova X1, don't have the Inova X1...

Actually just modded my T5 to use a 1-Stage high only switch, i use high about 95% of the time, so don't really care for multimode switches, only when I am out in the wild nature and have to safe battery power.


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

PhantomPhoton said:


> It's just too bad...
> SSC P4 :rock:
> Good Reflector/ Beam :naughty:
> HA III
> ...


 Yes the tactical switch is just what this flashlight needs, actually I wrote a e-mail to Kevin at Amilite to ask if they would make a tactically switch, I hope they do, or I think the tactically switch from Lumapower on the way will fit with only small modifications, just installed a 1-Stage switch from Lumapower in my T5, the diameter is the same, it works but had to do a small mod with a o-ring and plastic spacer for the Lumapower switch not to shorten circuit (the print boards is a bit difference from each other)...


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## pilou (Mar 7, 2007)

Just a side comment about the T5. I didn't realized until now that the T5 is actually a good size light. At 3.70 inches long, I would call it palm-sized, whereas the T3 is truly a tiny pockect size light that is only 2.87 inches long, similar to the Fenix P1D.


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## LightScene (Mar 7, 2007)

WHC thanks for the great review. The outdoor night pics are very helpful.


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

Just got home from night running, took my T5 along with me to try it in the fog and rain, and WOW what a amazing floody beam this little flashlight has, simply just a WALL of light, just what i have bean looking for, almost all my other flashlights is throwers.

Just paid today for a SSC P4 LED module for my M1, and combined with the LuxIII OP-Reflector for M1, it two should be putting out a wall of light, just with extended runtime at over 4 hours with 18650 battery, should be here in the beginning of next week, will post some bam shots between the T5 and M1 SSC P4 when it gets here.

So far I am very pleased with the T5, right now my favourite EDC, and amazing regulation also, no dim in output noticed with protected RCR123A until the protection kicked in.

The only downsides I have found so far is:

1. Not able to tail stand (though possible if found a thinner rubber switch cover that fits).
2. It gets pretty hot quite fast, though that is also kind of good news, since that mean that the heat is getting away from the LED = good headsink.
3. No tactical operation, but maybe possible to mod...?


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## JanCPF (Mar 7, 2007)

What is the runtime on one RCR123? Sorry if it's been answered already.


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

JanCPF said:


> What is the runtime on one RCR123? Sorry if it's been answered already.


 Just in the middle of testing that, should be at least 1 hour on high.


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## Lumenation (Mar 7, 2007)

Where did you get the SSC module for your M1? And will it work in my M1 cree?


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

Lumenation said:


> Where did you get the SSC module for your M1? And will it work in my M1 cree?


 From Lumapower it costs $20, it will not work together with the Cree reflector, only the shorter Luxeon III reflector as used in the first production of M1.


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

Just ran a runtime test with AW's protected 3.7v RCR123A, and the result is not impressive, vas expecting much longer runtime.

Runtime with AW's protected 3.7v high current RCR123A cell: *19* min *14* sec

I did the test twice, could not believe ONLY! 19 minutes, after the test I get 3.0v measured from the battery, the protection is shutting down the battery much too soon I think, should be around 2.5v-2.6v.


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## Sengoku (Mar 7, 2007)

I measured the current draws with primarys and rechargeables.

3v tekcell - 1A (around 800mA to the emitter)
4.2v R123 - *1.3A* no wonder is only getting 19mins!

Basically when using a R123, it goes direct drive.


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

Sengoku said:


> I measured the current draws with primarys and rechargeables.
> 
> 3v tekcell - 1A (around 800mA to the emitter)
> 4.2v R123 - *1.3A* no wonder is only getting 19mins!
> ...


 That’s explains it, trying now to do a runtime test with my only primary cell, the one included, was 2.9v before the test, now 39 min into the test, still bright light coming from the T5. It is defiantly best with primary cells for runtime...


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

Now 1 hour into the runtime test the battery went from 2.9v to 2.49v, still very bright.


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

Just ordered this CR123A charger and 3v CR123A 600mah rechargeable batteries from Uniross, hope they will make the T5 run longer.


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## whc (Mar 7, 2007)

The runtime test with primary CR123A is soon done, now at *1* hour *48* minutes the T5 is flashing rapidly the voltage went from 2.9v to 1.82v, not a useful beam at all. At about *1* hour *6* minutes the T5 lost about half of its output.


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## jsr (Mar 7, 2007)

Pretty good runtime on primaries. Virtually all boost converters go into DD when Vin > Vo, so it's not a surprise.


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## frogs3 (Mar 7, 2007)

Just a general comment about the amount of light for "around the house". I'm an old geezer, about to turn 60 with less than great vision in the left eye. For about 30 years my light next to the bed, used for BR and walking around in the middle of the night has been a 2 D cell Eveready, originally with a PR 2 bulb, now updated to a K 2! When everything is fresh and new, compared to my Inova T2, which advertises about 40 lumens (estimated -- about 30 out the front), it looks like about 15 lumens from my trusty old lamp. It is fairly yellow, but it keeps me off the doorframes = no more broken toes since my first year of marriage. If I NEED something serious, I pull out the T2, which is quite good to see across the living room. If there is a REAL need for a light I take out an HID. But, 15 lumens will very nicely get you around most of the time.

I don't know about reading by that much light, especially at my age.

-HAK


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## whc (Mar 8, 2007)

Just finished the runtime test from Tekcell primary CR123A:

Runtime with primary Tekcell 2.9v CR123A cell:
After *1* Hour the cell went from *2.9*v to *2.49*v.
After *1* hour *6* minutes the output was about *50*% or lower.
After *1* hour *47* minutes the output was about at *20*% or lower.
After *1* hour *48* minutes the T5 starts flashing and dim even more.
After *12* hours still little output (see pic below), the cell down to *1.64*v, stopped the test here.

After 12 hours, this is the output coming from the flashlight, 30cm from wall:


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## Phaserburn (Mar 8, 2007)

whc said:


> 2. It gets pretty hot quite fast, though that is also kind of good news, since that mean that the heat is getting away from the LED = good headsink.


 
whc, is this heat using the R123 or primary?


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## jsr (Mar 8, 2007)

That's a pretty good driver to be able to still run, even dimly, at a cell open voltage of 1.64V, which under load is even lower voltage. The dim output is probably still enough to navigate a dark indoors with dark adapted eyes.


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## whc (Mar 8, 2007)

Phaserburn said:


> whc, is this heat using the R123 or primary?


 It gets hot with both, but very hot with R123A.


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## whc (Mar 8, 2007)

jsr said:


> That's a pretty good driver to be able to still run, even dimly, at a cell open voltage of 1.64V, which under load is even lower voltage. The dim output is probably still enough to navigate a dark indoors with dark adapted eyes.


 Yes it is very good. Will try the rechargeable Uniross 3v CR123A that I should get by mail tomorrow, and do some more runtime tests with them, ...


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## clipse (Mar 8, 2007)

I just got mine today. Very interesting. Mine has trouble staying on. If I tighted the tailcap all the way it will come on, on high. No clicking helps. If I loosen it a tad it will go out and work like it should.......Also, it flickers alot when I screw the tail cap in. 

Outside of that, its an awesome light. I'm loving it. Very very bright. 

BTW: I did send and email to Amilite. I'll report back when I hear something from them. 

clipse


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## clipse (Mar 8, 2007)

The more I play with this the cooler it is. I finally got to tighten it down and working correctly. so now I'm not loosening or playing with the tailcap except for clicking the clicky. 

One cool thing though, any setting I want is no more than a double click away. If I want high and the light is off then double click and I get high almost instantly. If I want off and it on low then a quick double click and its off. Very cool. High is very very bright. Deffinately much bright than my EDC U60 on high. The hot spot looks alittle smaller as well. Low is very close to the U60's primary factory setting with is either 10 or 15 lumens I can't remember. Still, its the setting I use the most and this will deffinately be enough more me.  Oh yeah, tint is almost completely white with just the slightest bit of blueish tinge. My Amilite Neo T3 was my whitest tinted light untill I got this sucker.  (thats not including my L1P that I lost)

Oh yeah, one more thing. I'm guessing its just the Seoul LED but mine stays lit for several seconds (very dim) after shutting the light off. Is that normal?


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## whc (Mar 8, 2007)

I think that the dimm after turning off is normal, mine does the same, though this is my first ssc p4 so don't know for sure since I don't have a other flashlight to compare.


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## clipse (Mar 8, 2007)

whc said:


> I think that the dimm after turning off is normal, mine does the same, though this is my first ssc p4 so don't know for sure since I don't have a other flashlight to compare.




How about the flickering when screwing in the tailcap?


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## whc (Mar 8, 2007)

clipse said:


> How about the flickering when screwing in the tailcap?


 Have not had any problems of that kind, maybe the treads needs cleaning, sounds like the connection is bad...


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## jsr (Mar 9, 2007)

The dimming before turning off is likely the driver. There's probably a cap in parallel with the LED to filter out the output waveform (it's a switcher). This is the proper way to make a regulator...other brands seem to cheapen out and leave the output filter cap out to save cost and board real estate.

I'm interested to know Amilite's response to you regarding the finicky tailcap. Sounds like something's shorting out as you tighten all the way. Maybe the spring on the tailcap is being compressed too much and shorts the switch somehow, leaving it permanently on.


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## whc (Mar 9, 2007)

Just got my Uniross batteries plus charger today, charged one battery and went for a runtime test, here is what I got:

Runtime with protected rechargeable Uniross 600mah CR123A cell: *33*min *33*sec

The voltage was 4.18v to begin with, and the protection kicked in at about 3v (measured 3.03v after the battery had rested some time). So why oh why does this only 600mah rechargeable protected cell gets 14 min 19 sec more runtime compared to AW's high current protected 750mah battery??? strange I think.

With the Tenergy 900mah rechargeable CR123 from Batteryjunction.com, the flashlight should get even more runtime, it should get some thing like 45 min or so, maybe they are worth trying?


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## clipse (Mar 9, 2007)

I got a reply from Amilite. 

I asked them if there was a way to fix it since I really didn't want to have to send it back and wait more time. This is the response I got. 



> Hello _clipse_,
> 
> Sorry for your trouble.
> I will send you switch today. You don't need to send me back mal-function switch.
> ...



I've never heard of anyone having to use Amilites Customer Service so I didn't know what to excpect. But, this is awesome. Much more than I was expecting.

Just a side note. I played with the spring and I don't think its that. It seems to compress like it should.


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## AFAustin (Mar 9, 2007)

whc,

Thanks for a terrific, comprehensive review of the T5---lots of good info. there.

The short runtime on an RCR123A is problematic. I'm wondering if it is a defective cell? Could you, or some other T5 owner, please try it again with a known good RCR123A cell?

Thanks again.


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## whc (Mar 9, 2007)

AFAustin said:


> whc,
> 
> Thanks for a terrific, comprehensive review of the T5---lots of good info. there.
> 
> ...


Don't think it is a defective cell, tried the runtime test two times with difference cells, and god about the same runtime (some seconds shorter on the first run). Batteries have only bean used a few times so they are as good as new ...

The regulation is just optimized for primaryes, not good news for us rechargeable users.


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## jsr (Mar 9, 2007)

The runtime is longer on the 3V cell because the driver isn't drawing as much current as when using the 3.7V cell. All boost converters work optimally when Vin < Vo, allowing it to "boost" the voltage. The driver isn't a buck-boost (sepic) converter, so it will not buck the voltage if Vin > Vo and thus goes into direct drive (bypass) and will just source as much current as the dynamic resistance of the LED and resistance of pass components of the driver will allow.

Good to see Amilite stands by their products and customers and sends out replacements for defective parts without hassle. I've had a sour experience with a well-known vendor on CPF who essentially called me a liar, a big headache.


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## cholla (Mar 10, 2007)

The T5 I received also flickered and would not turn off if the tailcap was unscrewed and then replaced. It seems the tailcap spring was ever so slightly cocked to one side and once popped back into the central position just with my finger it works fine.

Wonderful light too!


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## whc (Mar 10, 2007)

Just got my confirmation from Ricky at Lumapower, that my SSC P4 LED upgrade module for my M1 was shipped today (together with my M3-Transformer), should be here Monday/Tuesday (paid extra for express shipping ). Will post some beam shots when it arrives ...

-->jsr
Strangely the Uniross battery measures 4.18v when fully charged, that’s not 3v at all, it's the same as the AW cell I believe, the protection in the Uniross kicks in at around 3v. Strange it gives more runtime than the cell from AW.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 12, 2007)

jsr said:


> The runtime is longer on the 3V cell because the driver isn't drawing as much current as when using the 3.7V cell. All boost converters work optimally when Vin < Vo, allowing it to "boost" the voltage. The driver isn't a buck-boost (sepic) converter, so it will not buck the voltage if Vin > Vo and thus goes into direct drive (bypass) and will just source as much current as the dynamic resistance of the LED and resistance of pass components of the driver will allow.


 
Got my T5 last night. The R123 is drawing around 1.34A. What is the definitive word on SSCs; IIRC, they are spec'd to run at 1A with adequate heat sinking, correct? If so, this would represent a significant overdrive. Damage potential? I've heard conflicting viewpoints.


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## whc (Mar 12, 2007)

Got my SSC P4 LED upgrade module for my M1 today, mice and white tint for a SSC P4 LED.















Now to some beam shots, enjoy ...

Left: Amilite T5 High using Uniross rechargeable CR123A, Right: Lumapower M1 SSC P4 using 3.7v protected 18650




Left: Amilite T5 High using Uniross rechargeable CR123A, Right: Lumapower M1 SSC P4 using 3.7v protected 18650, 2-Stops Underexposed


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## whc (Mar 12, 2007)

Here is some more beam shots on distance about 12-14m, all flashlights is on high, using Li-Ion rechargeable batteries.

Lumapower M1 SSC P4 OP




Lumapower M1 XR-E OP




Fenix L1D-CE




Lumapower M3




Amilite T5




Lumapower LP-Mini OP


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## orbital (Mar 12, 2007)

whc~ Thank you so much for all the great reviews, pics ect..!!

The T5 just seems to be pulling me in, 
could anyone tell me about the lens, if it has any coatings, the overall quality.


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## jsr (Mar 14, 2007)

whc - sounds like those Uniross R123As are actually 3.7V R123As instead of 3.0V.

phaserburn - yes, that's overdriving the LED, especially since it's DD in that setup. Reminds me of the Jet1s tho...all of them overdrove the LED at 1.45-1.85A (depending on R123A or 14500, and MKI or MKII). Probably won't hurt the LED too bad if you run it in fairly short bursts. I'm sure it will lower the life of the LED though if run for long periods (10+ minutes), but how much is hard to say.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Mar 14, 2007)

Excellent thread!!! Thanks whc.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 15, 2007)

jsr said:


> phaserburn - yes, that's overdriving the LED, especially since it's DD in that setup. Reminds me of the Jet1s tho...all of them overdrove the LED at 1.45-1.85A (depending on R123A or 14500, and MKI or MKII). Probably won't hurt the LED too bad if you run it in fairly short bursts. I'm sure it will lower the life of the LED though if run for long periods (10+ minutes), but how much is hard to say.


 
Yeah, that's what I thought. Not crazy about that idea. I think I'll stick to primary 123s, as I'd like to be able to do a long burn anytime needed. Limiting high mode to such short durations is like crippling a light's design.


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## jsr (Mar 15, 2007)

phaserburn - just FYI, but other lights like the Fenix L1D-CE and Jet1 MKIIx in "turbo" or "max" mode using a 14500 also overdrive the LED (I believe about 1.4-1.5A), so it's a practice other lights do. Amilite designed the T5 to work with a 3V source. Yes, the driver and LED can take 3.7V, but it is not per design specs. You can also get 3V R123As for free power, at the sacrifice of a bit of runtime (relative to primaries), but the heat is lower as it's running in regulation and per design spec.


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## BrightIdeaOSU (Mar 16, 2007)

I received my torch today, (the doorbell malfunctioned and I had to run to the post office to pick it up) and I am very impressed. The anodize job is a nice color and texture (sort of a deep green) and the machining quality is at the level of the American brands, particularly the threads, which are McGizmo smooth. Speaking of the Don, the reflector does appear to be one of his, unless someone is making an exact copy of his McR-20, and not even bothering to rename it. It produces a nice smooth beam, with no rings or artifacts. Nice white color too, at both brightness levels! After years of expecting to see color shifting in luxeons, I first checked to see if it was PWM; nope, nice smooth output. Overall, very nice, and -very- bright; in this blasted pitch black snowstorm tonight, I could see every detail across the pond and the field to the trees behind, which is at least 350ft, and the lit up area was pleasingly large.  The window is very clear, but search me what the material is. Doesn't seem to be coated. . . 

However, I did experience the dropping out problem, where I had to smack it to get the light to come back on; tech support was understanding, told me how to fix it, and sent me out a new tail anyhow. A bit of work with the wire snips and a new battery later, it works just fine again. Perhaps a few of their springs were not to spec? It seems that too much back-pressure through the mainspring opens the circuit. . . anyhow, excellent, 4.5 stars only because of the small modification I had to make, and 5 when I get the new tail and it works without surgery.


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## vtran96 (Mar 17, 2007)

BrightIdeaOSU said:


> I received my torch today, (the doorbell malfunctioned and I had to run to the post office to pick it up) and I am very impressed. The anodize job is a nice color and texture (sort of a deep green) and the machining quality is at the level of the American brands, particularly the threads, which are McGizmo smooth. Speaking of the Don, the reflector does appear to be one of his, unless someone is making an exact copy of his McR-20, and not even bothering to rename it. It produces a nice smooth beam, with no rings or artifacts. Nice white color too, at both brightness levels! After years of expecting to see color shifting in luxeons, I first checked to see if it was PWM; nope, nice smooth output. Overall, very nice, and -very- bright; in this blasted pitch black snowstorm tonight, I could see every detail across the pond and the field to the trees behind, which is at least 350ft, and the lit up area was pleasingly large.  The window is very clear, but search me what the material is. Doesn't seem to be coated. . .
> 
> However, I did experience the dropping out problem, where I had to smack it to get the light to come back on; tech support was understanding, told me how to fix it, and sent me out a new tail anyhow. A bit of work with the wire snips and a new battery later, it works just fine again. Perhaps a few of their springs were not to spec? It seems that too much back-pressure through the mainspring opens the circuit. . . anyhow, excellent, 4.5 stars only because of the small modification I had to make, and 5 when I get the new tail and it works without surgery.



Did you get the 15 or 30 lumens low option? If someone could post pics of the light on low at 1 meter away from a newspaper, not magazine since I think the paper is too glossy, I'd appreciate it. I'm trying to get an idea of the brightness. Thanks in advance.


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## BrightIdeaOSU (Mar 17, 2007)

I got the 15 lumen version. It's plenty bright for around the house, and just right for reading.


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## whc (Mar 20, 2007)

Just got me a Lux Meter today, and thanks to Quickbeam at Flashlightreviews.com (http://www.flashlightreviews.com/fe...tbox_output.htm) I was able to make a device using a milk carton and some aluminium foil (I then reinforced it using corkboard) to measure the "Overall Output".

Here is some results of Overall Output in Lux:

_ Amilite T5:_
1xRCR123A 3.0v on high: *8340* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *10910* Lux

Now just to compare:

_Lumapower M1:_
1x18650 XR-E OP: *8140* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v XR-E OP: *8950* Lux
1x18650 SSC P4 OP: *5540* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v SSC P4 OP: *8230* Lux
_Lumapower LP-Mini:_
1xRCR123A 3.7v OP: *7810* Lux
_ Lumapower M3:_
1xAA on high: *3640* Lux
2xAA on high: *4300* Lux
1x14500 on high: *5880* Lux
1xRCR123A on high: *4390* Lux
_ Fenix L1D-CE:_
1xAA on high: *3990* Lux
1x14500 on high: *8240* Lux
_Led-Lenser Hokus Fokus:_
3xAAA Ni-Mh: *4850* Lux
_Ultrafire WF-500L:_
2x18650 3.7v: *4660* Lux
_Nuwai X-3:_
2xAA Ni-Mh: *3020* Lux


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## vtran96 (Mar 20, 2007)

whc said:


> Just got me a Lux Meter today, and thanks to Quickbeam at Flashlightreviews.com (http://www.flashlightreviews.com/fe...tbox_output.htm) I was able to make a device using a milk carton and some aluminium foil (I then reinforced it using corkboard) to measure the "Overall Output".
> 
> Here is some results of Overall Output in Lux:
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info. If you're able to include data for the Huntlight FT01 cree version, that would be even better.


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## whc (Mar 20, 2007)

vtran96 said:


> Thanks for the info. If you're able to include data for the Huntlight FT01 cree version, that would be even better.


 Sorry don't have the Huntlight...


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## SEMIJim (Mar 20, 2007)

The only one out of what you have that beats the T5 with a single 3V cell for overall output is an LP M1 XR-E with _two_ 3.7V cells?


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## T4R06 (Mar 20, 2007)

wow T5!!! i want one


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## Gannz (Mar 20, 2007)

I also really like this light b/c of all the + reasons already listed. I find the 30 lumen low perfect for most of my needs (mostly indoor and close range) and I can't help but smile when I kick it into high. I too have the spring issue and agree that customer service is very good. 

The only problem I have with the light is that there is too much play in the battery tube. I don't habitually shake my lights but there is a very noticeable battery rattle if you shake it and it's also noticeable every time I pick up the light. 

Well, I mean it was noticeable. I wrapped a 5 inch strip of metal tape around a few RCR's and now the battery does not rattle and still slides out easily. I don't think this should hurt anything. As mentioned, the light does run hot on high. I don't think that the extra gap in the battery tube is an engineering design to help dissipate heat but if anyone knows differently please let us know.

Easy access... :rock:


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## T4R06 (Mar 22, 2007)

im ready to get this light, but really bothering me is using R123 3.7V
is it really 19mins on runtime? all my 123 are AW's high current and unprotected ultrafire..


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## PhantomPhoton (Mar 22, 2007)

If only Amlite would listen and produce a forward clickie or tactical switch as an option. I'd be all over it. Anyone know of such a switch that will fit the Amlite threads?


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## whc (Mar 22, 2007)

PhantomPhoton said:


> If only Amlite would listen and produce a forward clickie or tactical switch as an option. I'd be all over it. Anyone know of such a switch that will fit the Amlite threads?


 I use a Lumapower 1-stage switch in my T5, Lumapower should soon be out with a tactically switch, I think it should work (fingers crossed)...Or at least that is what I am hoping for ...


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## T4R06 (Mar 22, 2007)

whc - what lumapower model?


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## whc (Mar 23, 2007)

T4R06 said:


> whc - what lumapower model?


 The tactically switch? It should be out for Lumapower M1 soon.


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## NAW (Mar 25, 2007)

whc,

is the AW battery the newer or older design?


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## whc (Mar 25, 2007)

NAW said:


> whc,
> 
> is the AW battery the newer or older design?


 It’s the new ones "High Current" black ones...


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## T4R06 (Mar 25, 2007)

i just ordered T5 15/140 lms specs
if the new M1 tailcap will fit on T5, this is good news because they have same color. i hope ricky(lumapower) can sell tailcap only


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## whc (Mar 25, 2007)

I have updated the list, now woth throw and more modes, enjoy ...

Here is some Lux reading of Overall Output:

_Amilite T5:_
1xRCR123A 3.0v on high: *8340* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *10910* Lux
_Fenix L1D-CE:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on turbo: *3990* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *3770* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *1910* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on low: *430* Lux
1x14500 Li-ion on turbo: *8240* Lux
_Led-Lenser Hokus Fokus:_
3xAAA Ni-Mh: *4850* Lux_
Lumapower M1:_
1x18650 XR-E OP on high: *8140* Lux
1x18650 XR-E OP on low: *1640* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v XR-E OP: *8950* Lux
1x18650 SSC P4 OP: *5540* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v SSC P4 OP: *8230* Lux
_Lumapower LP-Mini:_
1xRCR123A 3.7v OP: *7810* Lux
_Lumapower M3:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *3640* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *1270* Lux
1xAA Ni-Mh on low: *40* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on high: *4300* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on medium: *1310* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on low: *350* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on high: *5880* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on medium: *3020* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on low: *690* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *4390* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on medium: *2940* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on low: *680* Lux
_Nuwai X-3:_
2xAA Ni-Mh: *3020* Lux
_Ultrafire WF-500L:_
2x18650 3.7v: *4660* Lux

Here is some Lux reading at 1m in Throw:

_Amilite T5:_
1xRCR123A 3.0v on high: *2520* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *3260* Lux
_Fenix L1D CE:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on turbo: *1460* Lux 
1x14500 Li-ion on turbo: *3150* Lux
Led-Lenser Hokus Fokus:
3xAAA Ni-Mh: *4460* Lux_
Lumapower M1:_
1x18650 XR-E OP on high: *4820* Lux
2xRCR123A 3.7v XR-E OP: *5500* Lux 
_Lumapower M3:_
1xAA Ni-Mh on high: *1240* Lux
2xAA Ni-Mh on high: *1530* Lux
1x14500 Li-Ion on high: *1980* Lux
1xRCR123A 3.7v on high: *1550* Lux
_Lumapower Lp-Mini:_
1xRCR123A 3.7v OP: *4700* Lux
_Nuwai X-3:_
2xAA Ni-Mh: *1340* Lux
_Ultrafire WF-500L:_
2x18650 3.7v: *4710* Lux


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## PhantomPhoton (Mar 28, 2007)

T4R06 said:


> ...if the new M1 tailcap will fit on T5, this is good news ... i hope ricky(lumapower) can sell tailcap only



I conccur. The only thing keeping me from buying the Amlite is that %^#$&^ reverse clickie... I won't even buy $50 lights if its reverse... I"m thinking I should just start learning how to mod my own tailcaps. Would save me alot of whining and such

Any other known forward or tactical clickie tails fit on the Amlite threads?


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## T4R06 (Mar 28, 2007)

@phantom - can resist anymore.. placed an order, and keep on tracking on it


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## SEMIJim (Mar 28, 2007)

If I was _needing_ a light for tactical use, then I'd want a single-stage (forward) clicky. Then again: If I was needing it for tactical use, I might want something a bit larger than a T5. Something a bit more hand-filling. Don't know for sure. But as a general use, EDC light: My feeling is anything "less" than a two-stage, with the lower level being somewhere down around 15lm or so, is of no use to me. I _certainly_ don't need 100lm or better for 99-44/100% of my tasks.


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## pilou (Apr 10, 2007)

Btwy, I just dropped by the Amilite site and noticed that they are now also selling the T5 with a regular non-scalloped bezel, and they are calling that version the Bizman  Perhaps when some people see a person pull the regular T5, they might be afraid that the light carrier is hiding a machete and wearng fatigues underneath that suit . So they made a civilized version for businessmen :lolsign:


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## orbital (Jun 20, 2007)

whc said:


> Just got my Uniross batteries plus charger today, charged one battery and went for a runtime test, here is what I got:
> 
> Runtime with protected rechargeable Uniross 600mah CR123A cell: *33*min *33*sec
> 
> ...



whc, did you ever get the Tenergy 900 mAh RCR123s' from BatteryJunction?

Also, after a few months with the T5, what are your likes/dislikes,
comparing it to your other lights? 


Thanks.


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## jcompton (Sep 22, 2007)

Looks like Amilite has made a forward clicky and put it on their *Neo T5 UV *Can anyone confirm this???


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## FASTCAR (Sep 26, 2007)

This light is still 1 of my very few keepers.


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## DarthLumen (Sep 27, 2007)

I just ordered mine yesterday....couldn't resist. I've read too many good things about this light!!!


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