# Solarforce T7 - Q5 Cree



## selfbuilt (Dec 21, 2007)

This new Solarforce T7 was kindly provided by CPF user waion at no charge for review. You can find more information on these at the supplier’s website: www.solarforce.hk.

*UPDATE 1/25/08:* They are now currently available for sale at Lighthound for ~$55.







Features of Solarforce T7, according to the supplier and one eBay vendor (note that I do not have independent verification for most of these):

Cree Q5 LED
2xCR123A lithium battery, 2x16340 (RCR) Li-ion rechargeable battery or 1x 17670 Li-ion rechargeable battery _(note that my protected AW 17670 won't fit, so I used a lower capacity 14670 in my tests - 18650 will certainly NOT fit)_
Aerospace grade aluminium 6061-T6 body with HA III coating
7 output levels _(note: my sample actually has 8 levels)_
Max output 240 lumens
Digitally regulated for constant brightness _(see my review for a discussion) _
SOS & flashing modes available at each intensity level
Unique 3-button control system _(see below for an explanation of the UI)_
4cm (Length) x 2.1cm (Diameter)
56-gram weight (excluding batteries)
Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard.
Toughened ultra clear glass lens with AR coating.
Push-button tail cap switch
Capable of standing up securely on a flat surface to serve as a candle

*What came in the package:*
















*Beamshots:*

On Max with AW protected RCR (black-label). For comparison purposes, I’ve also included the Fenix P2D-Q5 and T1-Q5. For P3D-Q5 comparison, see post #2.


















As you can see, the Solarforce T7 seems to be the brightest of bunch, with a similar profile to the Fenix Q5 head. Tint on the T7 isn’t as purple as it looks in the pics, although the Fenix lights are quite warm in comparison. I’d estimate WF tint on the T7 (common on Q5 Crees these days - and the same as my Fenix P3D Q5 which just arrived, shown in post #2).

*Output:*

For more detailed comparisons, please scroll down to the runtime charts below. Here are the results of a quick "ceiling-bounce" test in a small windowless room, with my light meter on the floor near the base of the light (which is shining upward in candle-mode). All are on max output on AW protected RCR except for VB-16 (18650).

Solarforce T7: *8.7 lux*
Fenix P2D-Q5: *7.1 lux*
Fenix T1: *8.1 lux*
Fenix P3D-Q5: *8.1 lux*
VB-16 ("4W" overdriven) modded with U-bin SSC: *6.2 lux*

*Output/Runtime Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. My relative overall output numbers are typically similar to his, although generally a little lower. You can directly compare all my review graphs - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another.

Batteries used were Energizer primary CR123A, AW protected RCR (black-label, 750mAh), and AW protected 14670 Li-ion (1100mAh). My AW 17670 Protected Li-ion is too fat and won't to fit into the tube.
















*Summary Chart:*

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1m using a light meter. 






*Digital Regulation:*

I'm not sure how the Solarforce T7 regulates its output modes. I suspect it is likely current-controlled. If it uses PWM, the frequency is too high for me to detect by eye or by instrument.
Output is very nicely regulated at every level on primary CR123A and RCR.
On single-cell Li-ion (14670 in my case), output is only semi-regulated – but all 8 output levels are preserved.






*User Interface:*

The light lacks a memory mode, and always comes on at max brightness
Light is turned on by the reverse clicky switch in the tailcap (note the tailcap threads are anodized, so you activate this light like a twisty if you want). Rear clicky is a bit stiff on my sample.
The light has 8 output modes, not 7 as claimed by the supplier
Press the lower red button once to decrease the output level by 1
Press the upper red button once to increase the output level by 1
Press and hold the upper red button for 2 sec to get into the flashing mode (or quickly press the tail switch twice - i.e. "flash" the tail switch)
Press and hold the lower red button for 2 sec to get into the SOS mode
















*Build Quality*

Overall build quality is fairly good. I don’t have a P3D Q5 to compare to (yet, it’s on order), but I would say build quality is close to the Fenix lights. UPDATE: the P3D Q5 has just arrived, and is certainly not as long (see post #2), but has a slightly more substantial feel to it than the Solarforce (i.e. a bit more "heft" to the P3D-Q5)
Hard Anodized (type III) finish is in good shape and unblemished on my sample. Lettering is also neat and clear for the most part.
The head doesn’t open, batteries are changed by unscrewing the tailcap.
Can't access the head, but the textured OP reflector looks to be aluminum.
Clicky switch retaining ring was gouged on my sample, likely due to snap-ring pliers slipping during assembly. Note the light would “wobble” when tail-standing as shipped, due to over-tightening of the retaining ring – slightly unscrewing it resolved the issue.
Rear reverse clicky switch is a bit stiff, and requires a fair amount of pressure to activate
Red up/down intensity switches have good tactile feel and auditory feedback when pressed (makes a soft clicking noise). This is an improvement over the first generation VB-16s, which were somewhat "squishy" (i.e. you could easily jump a couple of levels at once).






*Accessories*

As you can see in the pics at the top of the page, the light comes in a box very similar in design to Fenix (even has the same description on the front!)
Solarforce includes a nice sewn-nylon carrying pouch with closing flap and belt attachment. 
Extra o-ring, tailcap cover, and wrist lanyard included.

*Conclusion:*

_Pros_

Brightest Q5 light of its class. To give you a comparison, output of my Q5 Fenix T1/P3D are about one level down from max on the T7. 
Well-built, worked reliably during testing. I would say overall build quality is close to the Fenix line.
Good user interface with 3-button setup, very familiar to fans of the VB-16.
Clever placement of SOS and strobe out of the way, but easy to access by holding down lower and upper red buttons (respectively)
Fully regulated on RCR and primaries, semi-regulated on single-cell Li-ion. Note that all output levels are maintained on all battery types, which is impressive :thumbsup:
Decent runtimes given the output.
Anodized tailcap threads, allowing for tailcap lock-out or use a rear “twisty”
_Cons_

No memory mode, light always starts on Max. :shrug: At the very least, I think people would want a forward clicky if it was always going to come on in Max. But a memory mode would be far more useful
Most of the 8 output levels are clustered near the higher end of output. The light could use a lower Min output level, and much more differentiation at the lower end of the output scale
Body tube is a bit tight: my blue-label AW protected RCRs wouldn’t fit (only black-label fit). Similarly, my AW protected 17670 Li-ion won't fit either (but in fairness, it won't fit in my Fenix P3D-Q5 either). Looks like 14670 is the way to go for maximum compatibility.
Rear reverse clicky switch is a bit stiff 

*Summary:*

The only thing holding me back from giving this light a firm :twothumbs is no memory mode and the relative lack of lower output levels. Fans of the earlier VB-16s will be disappointed by this change, as it seems a step back from two of the main advantages of those lights. 
The user interface is a good design, intuitive and simple to use - with smart placement of the SOS/strobe out of sight, but available at all output levels
Overall output is the highest for all my general use Cree Q5 lights (although this sample has a slight purple tint – likely a WF tint bin). The Q5 Fenix T1/P3D overall output is close - around level 7 on this light (out of 8 total). 
Compared to my overdriven 1st gen VB-16 "4W" with U-bin SSC mod, the T7 is at least 35-40% brighter overall. I doubt current SSC VB-16s are much brighter than my modded one.
Price is reasonable at ~$55.

Cheers! :wave:


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## selfbuilt (Dec 21, 2007)

Wouldn't you know it: no sooner than I post the review, and my P3D Q5 shows up in the mail! :duh2:






As you can see, the Solarforce T7 is much taller, closer the the 2AA Fenix L2D.
*
Beamshots on Max/Turbo:
*









The P3D Q5 has a slightly smoother beam, with less rings (likely due to the fact the emitter seems to be pulled back to just below the reflector on my sample). However, my P3D emitter is not perfectly centered, leading a slight shadow around the hospot (lower right in the pic above).

You'll note there's no real tint difference between the Solarforce T7 and my Fenix P3D Q5. I'd estimate both are WF tints.

Overal output of the P3D Q5 is exactly the same as my Fenix T1, so all the comparisons on the first post still apply.

More info to come ...


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## StefanFS (Dec 21, 2007)

Nice review,
an odd light. But it's interesting, not the regular fare.
Stefan


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## selfbuilt (Dec 21, 2007)

StefanFS said:


> an odd light. But it's interesting, not the regular fare.


+1. It's certainly not your typical light - nice to see something different ...

I only wish it had lower low modes and a memory feature like the old VB-16s. On the other hand, I wish Fenix could get its circuits working as well with single Li-ion cells.


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## PhantomPhoton (Dec 22, 2007)

Thanks for the review.
I am a big fan of 18650, so it's too bad that they aren't supported. I like 18650s on my VB-16. 
I do like the ui of this light. I agree that having more low options would be better though.
Reverse clickie tailcap switch I assume?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Dec 22, 2007)

Selfbuilt,

Another awesome review! Keep it up!

This light looks really nice, but to me the killer is the fact that it has no memory and can only be turned on in the highest setting. If they had a memory I'm sure ALOT more people would be interested in it.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 22, 2007)

PhantomPhoton said:


> I do like the ui of this light. I agree that having more low options would be better though.
> Reverse clickie tailcap switch I assume?


That's what I get for rushing my review out yesterday - forgot to talk about the rear clicky! 

Yes, it is indeed a reverse clicky. One point I've just added to the main post is that a forward clicky would make more sense for a light with no memory mode that always came on max (i.e. make it "tactical").

As for the lack of 18650, at least it still maintains all its levels on a single 17670 Li-ion (something Fenix has yet to figure out). I have an AW protected 17670 on order, and will confirm that it fits (likely to be a tight squeeze). My 14670 is only a temporary solution for now, to demonstrate the feature.



adirondackdestroyer said:


> This light looks really nice, but to me the killer is the fact that it has no memory and can only be turned on in the highest setting. If they had a memory I'm sure ALOT more people would be interested in it.



Agreed, that is the main limitation in my view as well (followed by the lack of low modes). Both of these features were present on the VB-16, so it seems a loss here. On the plus side, the up and down level switches work a lot better than the first generation VB-16s (just updated the review to point that out). No more wondering where you will end up - and a very clever placement for the SOS/strobe.

:wave:


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## selfbuilt (Dec 23, 2007)

Just added low mode on the T7 on 14670 to the first post.

Although the overall output on single Li-ion isn't that much lower on most levels, there is a considerable drop at the lowest level (which is a good thing, in my view). Still not as low as the lowest level of the P3D-Q5, though.

I'll get cracking on some runtimes for the P3D and add those to the second post.


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## jsr (Dec 24, 2007)

It's an attractive light. A bit long for my taste (I prefer lights to be not much larger than the battery they use as if I were to go for something longer, I would like a larger battery to fit for longer runtime), but it seems well made. I like the rectangular knurling. Overall, the light looks very Fenix-like. Nice to see a mfr have enough fore-thought to make the tube fit 17670s, unlike similar offerings which have trouble fitting them limiting the user to R123As as the only rechargeable option.


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## waion (Dec 25, 2007)

Thank you very much for the detailed review, which gives me and the other cpf fellows some very useful information such as the runtime, etc. Very informative indeed.

Just a few words to add: this is actual a new light independent of the VB-16s, which seems to me came to an end months ago when I sold out my 1st and the only run of the 4th gen VB-16 (with the SSC P4 leds) here in CPF.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 25, 2007)

jsr said:


> Overall, the light looks very Fenix-like. Nice to see a mfr have enough fore-thought to make the tube fit 17670s, unlike similar offerings which have trouble fitting them limiting the user to R123As as the only rechargeable option.


I agree on the look ... unfortunately, my AW protected 17670 just arrived, and it won't fit in the T7. The battery is too fat (this is the new kind with the nipple on the positive terminal). 

Note that this is not a problem unique to the T7 - the same battery won't fit in my Fenix P3D either. You might be able to squeeze it into the P3D if you remove the label, but I wouldn't chance it. There's certainly no way it will make into the T7, which is a hair's width narrower than the P3D. 



waion said:


> Thank you very much for the detailed review, which gives me and the other cpf fellows some very useful information such as the runtime, etc. Very informative indeed.


My pleasure, I enjoyed working with this light. A slightly wider battery tube/body would be my last recommendation ...

Merry Christmas everyone!


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## spoonrobot (Dec 26, 2007)

Very nice looking light. It's about time some of these features made their way around.

I've been waiting for a multi-level light that always activates on high and has a reverse clickie.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 28, 2007)

spoonrobot said:


> Very nice looking light. It's about time some of these features made their way around.
> 
> I've been waiting for a multi-level light that always activates on high and has a reverse clickie.


This could be a good light for you then. The clicky is a bit stiff, but that should help prevent accidental activation. 

FYI, waion informs me he's looking to incorporate some of my suggestions into his next project - looking forward to it. :wave:


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## SEMIJim (Dec 28, 2007)

Thanks for the detailed review, selfbuilt. Well done! :twothumbs:

I think if the manufacturer would address the nits (lack or memory or replace the reverse-clicky with a forward clicky, spread the brightness levels out some more and provide a really low low), this light would have real potential.

As it is: I think I'll just continue to regret missing out on Waion's last run of the VB-16 :mecry:, and see what he comes up with next.

Jim


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## spoonrobot (Dec 28, 2007)

I hope this light stays reverse clickie, it's a user interface that works better for pocket EDC than a forward clickie. Not all of us want to be tactical.


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## SEMIJim (Dec 28, 2007)

spoonrobot said:


> I hope this light stays reverse clickie, it's a user interface that works better for pocket EDC than a forward clickie.


Except a 2xCR123 is a bit large for pocket EDC, anyway, wouldn't you say? Plus this one's long even for a 2xCR123.

Jim


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## spoonrobot (Dec 29, 2007)

SEMIJim said:


> Except a 2xCR123 is a bit large for pocket EDC, anyway, wouldn't you say? Plus this one's long even for a 2xCR123.
> 
> Jim



Not for me, my pants have extra deep pockets. 

I find that length is much easier to carry than width. I EDC a D-Mini now and find the large diameter head disrupts the lines of my clothes more often and ends up causing my more discomfort than a slightly skinnier, but significantly longer light like the L2T I EDC on occasion.


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## spoonrobot (Jan 25, 2008)

Got mine today from an eBay seller. Turns out as I was waiting for the light to make the Air Mail trip lighthound begun stocking them. I'll have to order my next one from him.

After playing with this light for a few hours I've come to the conclusion that it drops the D-Mini from my EDC is a heartbeat. Two different beasts I know, but this light is a big improvement for carry and offers a much easier way to change light levels over other lights out there.

As stated above the levels are too close, there are too many of them and there aren't enough lows but if you like reverse clickies that always activate on high mode and have a wicked-easy UI then this light is for you.

:twothumbs

Also; two Panasonic batteries are included with the light. They state on the wrapper that they are Japanese manufacture, any input on whether this is true or not?


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## selfbuilt (Jan 25, 2008)

Thanks for the update spoonrobot, glad you enjoy the light.

I've just updated the first post with a link to the lighthound page where these are now for sale.


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## Shaocaholica (Mar 1, 2008)

So how much brighter is the T7 compared to the current SSC VB-16? I really like the form factor of the VB-16 with 18650 capability but the lackluster SSC bugs me.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 2, 2008)

Shaocaholica said:


> So how much brighter is the T7 compared to the current SSC VB-16? I really like the form factor of the VB-16 with 18650 capability but the lackluster SSC bugs me.


Just tested, and yes it is considerably brighter.

My VB-16 is a 1st gen luxeon model, overdriven to 4W, which I modded with SSC U-bin last year. I doubt the the current VB-16 SSCs are much brighter than my overdriven SSC-modded one.

According to my lightbox, on max, the T7 output is 89 on primaries, 82 on 14670. My SSC-modded VB-16 gets 64 on primaries and 61 on 18650. That's 35-40% increased output on the T7.

Just did a ceiling bounce, and I again get ~35% greater output on the T7 (numbers added to the review above).

Of course, the T7 doesn't go anyway near as low as my VB-16 does ...

:wave:


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## Warhead (Mar 2, 2008)

Are these made by or in conjunction with Fenix? Did I miss something somewhere?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 2, 2008)

Warhead said:


> Are these made by or in conjunction with Fenix? Did I miss something somewhere?


No, there's no relation between Solarforce and Fenix that I am aware of. CPF user waion provide the T7 for review, since it uses a never version of the VB-16 circuit (which waion used to sell here).


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## Patriot (Mar 2, 2008)

> *selfbuilt
> * As you can see, the Solarforce T7 seems to be the brightest of bunch, with a similar profile to the Fenix Q5 head.


I didn't see that the same way. No matter how much I looked at the pictures the T7 never came across as the brightest to me. The T1 looked like it had a brighter hotspot and smother spill of equal brightness. I can't remember the lux readings from the T1 but weren't they also higher than what was recorded with this light?

Anyhow, thanks for another great review selfbuilt. It's a strange light but nice to be able to read about it.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 2, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> I didn't see that the same way. No matter how much I looked at the pictures the T7 never came across as the brightest to me.


True, the pics don't look noticeably brighter. Part of that is likely due to the fact that the hotspot is over-saturated in all beamshots, so you can't see intensity differences (white wall beamshots really only tell you profile and spill beam characteristics). Tint variation can also be an issue.

But both my lightbox and ceiling bounce test tell me the T7 is putting out more light than the P3D-Q5 or T1 (~6-7% more), so I tend to trust that. It also seems marginally brighter to my eye, but of course that could just be tint difference as well. :shrug:


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## Patriot (Mar 2, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> True, the pics don't look noticeably brighter.
> 
> But both my lightbox and ceiling bounce test tell me the T7 is putting out more light than the P3D-Q5 or T1 (~6-7% more), so I tend to trust that.



Well, I also have to believe your lightmeter and not my own eyes. I will say that it appears that the both the T1 and P3D have nicer appearing beams as they seem to be less ringy than the T7. 

It's a very unique light though and to think that it displaces a couple of the mainstay lights in share output is impressive. Definitely worth the good review that you gave it.


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## phreeflow (Mar 3, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> I agree on the look ... unfortunately, my AW protected 17670 just arrived, and it won't fit in the T7.



Bummer :sigh:...that just blew it for me. I was liking your review of this light for reasons similar to @SpoonRobot...reverse clickie, starts on high, versatile/easy UI, and thin/long rather than short/fat....great for EDC IMHO. Oh well :shrug:.
Thanks again for another amazing review @Selfbuilt! :twothumbs
You're the man!! :rock:


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## selfbuilt (Mar 3, 2008)

phreeflow said:


> Bummer :sigh:...that just blew it for me. I was liking your review of this light for reasons similar to @SpoonRobot...reverse clickie, starts on high, versatile/easy UI, and thin/long rather than short/fat....great for EDC IMHO. Oh well :shrug:.


Well, the situation is at least no worse than for my P3D-Q5 - the protected 17670 won't fit in there either! Also, my P3D doesn't like my AW protected 14670 for some reason - I get a rapid strobe on max after ~1sec of usage. So I guess my 14670 will now do permanent duty inside the T7!

BTW, forgot to mention it in the review, but there is a small raised area in the center of the positive contact board in the head (i.e. a nipple), so flat-top Li-ions work fine. I wish all makers were so considerate. :thumbsup:


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## phreeflow (Mar 3, 2008)

Overall it looks like Solarforce really put some thought into this light. Other than some minor issues here and there, it seems like a possible contender to some of the more well regarded lights. Maybe not just yet but I can't wait to see version 2 with some revisions made. Thanks again Selfbuilt.


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## spoonrobot (Mar 8, 2008)

A little FYI for modder/those that are curious.

The head is sealed to the body with an adhesive but can be removed with strap wrenches quite easily. Be aware that there are four wires that are attached to the head and run to the light level buttons, unscrewing the head seems to cause at least one of these wires to break at the solder point. Resoldering and getting it all back together is a real pain so if you are intent on seeing the insides have the soldering iron handy. Also, I have no idea how to remove the light engine without destroying it, it appears to be pressed and sealed into the bezel.

#2, the brightness level buttons tore when I tried to remove them, I'm not sure where one could get replacements from this does not necessarily destroy the waterproofing since half the switch will still act as a seal if it isn't pushed into the body.

Just a little FYI from someone who was bored on a Saturday night.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Mar 9, 2008)

Combination of this and several other threads say I need a P3D but instead of Q5 I think R100!!!


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## metawaffle (May 8, 2008)

This review was great, and was spot-on about runtimes. I lurked here a bit while I was researching what to buy, and I've now registered to provide a bit of feedback about the SolarForce T7.

I've been carrying this thing around for weeks now, like some sort of obsessive, gleefully shining it into anything vaguely dark. I bought it primarily for night-time and underground photography, and coming from a history of big, heavy spotlights, I'm impressed beyond words. Small and light, with easy to carry spare batteries, and fantastically bright.

So, yes, I'm very taken with the T7, but I do have some minor issues:


*1) Brightness levels.* 

As pointed out in the review, the levels are bunched up near the top of the range. I wonder if perhaps the adjustment is a linear scale that should really have been logarithmic? I too have eight levels, but because of the odd placement of the intermediate settings, the only really useful levels are full and dimmest.


*2) Doesn't switch on properly on RCRs*

On RCRs, I find that switching it on will often just cause it to flash once then remain off, and it requires further button pressing (off and on again, or just a half-press) to switch it on properly. Strange. Combined with the strobe issue below, it's annoying.


*3) Rear button activates strobe*

Switching the light off and on again reasonably quickly activates strobe mode, as does a half-press of the rear button. Given that I have to switch it like this to get it to start up sometimes, it's a bit annoying. I didn't notice any mention anywhere that strobe could be activated this way - personally, I'd prefer it to not do so.


But that's about it. It's good and bright, and I wouldn't want to dissuade anyone from picking one up - overall I'm very pleased with it, and now I keep eyeing off the triple-bulb version


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## selfbuilt (May 9, 2008)

metawaffle said:


> On RCRs, I find that switching it on will often just cause it to flash once then remain off, and it requires further button pressing (off and on again, or just a half-press) to switch it on properly. Strange. Combined with the strobe issue below, it's annoying.


Glad to hear you are enjoying the light, sorry to hear about your RCR issue. I've been unable to replicate it on mine - the light has always behaved consistently on my AW protected RCRs. Sound likely to be a battery or circuit problem to me ... but you could rule out the switch by leaving it clicked in the on position and using the tailcap as a twisty. I suspect your problem would persist, pointing again to the batteries or circuit.

As for the rear tailcap strobe issue, I had mentioned it my review under the UI section, but I realize it may not have been clear. I've just revised the text. Truthfully, it wasn't much of an issue for me, since the light always came on in the right mode, so I was never soft-pressing - but I could see how it would be an issue for you, given your RCR problem.


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## metawaffle (May 12, 2008)

selfbuilt said:


> As for the rear tailcap strobe issue, I had mentioned it my review under the UI section, but I realize it may not have been clear. I've just revised the text. Truthfully, it wasn't much of an issue for me, since the light always came on in the right mode, so I was never soft-pressing - but I could see how it would be an issue for you, given your RCR problem.


 
You're exactly right, I might not even have noticed it if not for the RCR thing. Honestly, though, it's not a big deal. The spacing of the output levels would be much more useful to address 

Oh, it also gets quite hot after a few mins on full, though that might be par for the course on a light like this.


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## metawaffle (Jun 26, 2008)

Further updates!

Well, I seem to have acquired several other lights since I bought the T7. Not quite sure how that happened, it's all a bit of a blur :thinking: But anyway, I have a slightly more informed perspective on the light now, and I have to say it has by far the nicest beam of those I've used. 

A friend of mine picked up a Fenix L2D, which has a similar beam - biased towards flood rather than spot, and very nice on the eyes. Even my cheap Romisen RC-N3, with its P4 emitter, has a brighter spot, but nothing like the overall illumination. Similarly, my Solarforce L2 with R2 emitter has a much brighter spot, but isn't nearly so good for lighting up the immediate area.

Some good news - I finally have some replacement RCRs, and my problem with the light not switching on properly has disappeared! That's made all the difference in the world. :twothumbs

One minor issue, though: I had the light running for a few minutes in a few centimetres of water, and now I have condensation inside the lens. I'm not sure that it makes any difference to the performance of the light, but I was not pleased. 

At any rate, it's a great light, and my only problem now is convincing myself that I don't need the new Solarforce T7 II, with R2 emitter and memory function!


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## jirik_cz (Jun 26, 2008)

Now you need its bigger brother T700  It is very bright and throws much better than Wolf Eyes Storm.


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## metawaffle (Jun 26, 2008)

jirik_cz said:


> Now you need its bigger brother T700  It is very bright and throws much better than Wolf Eyes Storm.


 
Oh, I've been sorely tempted...


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## d1dd1 (Jun 26, 2008)

I wonder if they could remove the tail-switch to make the light shorter in future versions. They could remove SOS and make a press and hold --> light on / off in the side switch. I already contacted Solarforce about this, they will think about it.


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## itsmejaytee (Jul 3, 2008)

Have you guys seen the Solarforce T7 v2?!?!?! 

its the second version of the T7 and it HAS a memory mode! Im surprised that i could not find any forums that has some info on this light. But i just ordered one off of Ebay and its on its way.:thumbsup:


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## metawaffle (Jul 8, 2008)

itsmejaytee said:


> Have you guys seen the Solarforce T7 v2?!?!?!
> 
> its the second version of the T7 and it HAS a memory mode! Im surprised that i could not find any forums that has some info on this light. But i just ordered one off of Ebay and its on its way.:thumbsup:


 
Yes indeed, looks great!


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## martonic (Jul 17, 2008)

I have Solarforce T7 v1 and v2 (v2 has memory mode and Cree R2-bin emitter). The T7 v2 with the Cree R2 is clearly brighter than the v1. But not as bright as Dereelight CL1H (Cree Q5 at 1.2 A regulated). 

The memory mode works fine. However, you have to press a button again and again to ramp the level up or down (unlike the CPF custom VB-16 in which you can hold a button down to do so).

A 17670 will not fit in the T7! However a 14670 works and is nearly as bright as with 2 x CR123. 2 x RCR123 can be used for a bit more brightness.

It's a slim light with a nice beam and useful levels, and fits well in a pocket.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 17, 2008)

martonic said:


> I have Solarforce T7 v1 and v2 (v2 has memory mode and Cree R2-bin emitter). ... A 17670 will not fit in the T7! However a 14670 works and is nearly as bright as with 2 x CR123. 2 x RCR123 can be used for a bit more brightness.


Thanks for the update martonic. Glad to see they've updated it, but a shame they've made the battery tube narrower (it needed to widened, frankly).

FYI, I'm still using my V1 - it's curently sitting on my bike handlebars.


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## martonic (Jul 18, 2008)

Hi, and thanks. The tube is the same. I can't fit an AW protected 17670 (the only ones I've seen?) into either one. A shame, indeed, as they are advertised as accepting such - and the runtime would be much greater.


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## toby_pra (Jul 18, 2008)

nice review as always...:thumbsup:


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## gopurple (Oct 8, 2008)

Thanks for the review, just ordered the V2 version from Lighthound for $39.95 today, already got shipping notice within an hour.


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