# ROP or MAG85



## ac0311 (Jul 19, 2006)

Forget runtime, am looking for input for most bulb lumen. The Welch Allyn 1185 Bi-pin Bulb has a 817 bulb lumen output. What about the high output ROP?

Which would you prefer Mag85 or ROP. I can budget either ROP or MAG85 this time around so please help me out.

The problem I got is I started w/one flashlight thought it was bright, got another one that was brighter, then bought another one that was brighter. Man, does it ever stop!?! Anyways, the kids & I are having fun running around the house with these cool lights


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## scott.cr (Jul 19, 2006)

I have built both, and prefer the ROP low beam. It's not the biggest and baddest but easily built and rugged.

The ROP lamps are 7.2 volts, but I run mine on three CR123s with no problem (the low beam).

However, if you prefer the ROP high beam/1185 competition I think it depends on the reflector you use. If using Fivemega's current crop of dual purpose cammed/camless reflectors I think the ROP high beam lamp would be a better choice, because it more completely fills in the ream of the reflector. You'll have to replace the nylon sleeve in the Maglite socket though, with something like HDPE (high density polyethylene; similar to Teflon but with reduced heat growth problems).

I have a homemade high-temp type bipin socket that fits in a Mag C host... PM me if you want it. Yours free; just pay shipping.


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## Trashman (Jul 19, 2006)

The 817 bulb lumens for the wa1185 is running at spec, which is 9.6v if I remember correctly. A Mag85 overdrives it with at least 10.8v, or even more if you're using a li-ion setup (like fivemega's "1300L".) The bulb lumens increase quite a bit, the "1300L" signifies 1300 bulb lumens. The ROP, if I'm not mistaken, is a 6v Pelican Big D bulb, overdriven to 7.2v, or 8.4v. I not sure of the bulb lumen numbers, but I can tell you that it's not as bright as a Mag85.

For me, the desirable aspect of an ROP is that it is in 2D form vs. the larger 3D Mag85.


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## Delvance (Jul 19, 2006)

Going from your post...wanting the brightest light.

Build a [email protected] . A top shelf [email protected] will have a figure of ~1200 bulb lumens. The ROP high can potentially get to ~1200 bulb lumens imho...but it's a fair bit harder to build a top shelf ROP due to the bulb being PR based. With the [email protected], go straight for a regulated setup to keep the bulb on the bleeding edge, or do a DD solution with CBP1650s and KIUs socket for low resistance.

Oh, a typical 2D ROP will have a bulb lumen figure of around 900 or less after sag imho (it's hard to give an accurate figure due to the build style and battery solution of the light).


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## ac0311 (Jul 20, 2006)

Thank for the input. I'm gonna go the way of the MAG85 this time around


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## nemul (Jul 20, 2006)

ac0311 said:


> Thank for the input. I'm gonna go the way of the MAG85 this time around



:thumbsup:


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## missionaryman (Jul 21, 2006)

you won't be dissapointed, my MAG85 was definately brighter than my ROP s=and it was running on ordinary Sanyo 2500 NIMH but you must have at least 9 x 1.2v NIMH or 3 x 3.6/7v LiIon cells to properly run a MAG85


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## Delvance (Jul 21, 2006)

ac0311 said:


> Thank for the input. I'm gonna go the way of the MAG85 this time around


 
Awesome, have fun and enjoy


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## sig-in-tx (Jul 21, 2006)

Run the ROP in a 4-d cell mag, and put six sub-c cells. A no brainier VERY long running torch. Its so easy to get a torch with some kick *** light coming out of it for some impressive run times. Just do the mods to lower resistance and drop in the ROP bulb..


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## LeDfLaShEr (Jul 21, 2006)

I personally prefer the ROP HI myself. The 2d size just seems to work better for me. I use mine at work all the time. The ROP bulbs are cheaper and require less tweaking of your light to work. They may also be a bit tougher and last longer than the 1185 bulbs (the way we use them).

However, the Mag85 is definitely brighter in my experience.


You can't really go wrong either way.


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## ac0311 (Jul 21, 2006)

Been doing more research & am considering a BP 1185 w/12AANimh=14.4v
Any other suggestions for a brighter bulb w/14.4v? Am concerned w/instaflash, how long should one wait before turn it on after full charge?
Plus what do you all think of the Modmag 12AA carrier, will it fit a stock body 3D.
I've got a 4D as well, any AA carriers for these to use a brighter bulb than the 1185. I calculate 16AANimh=19.2v.
Thank you all again for yous help.


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## eebowler (Jul 29, 2006)

Go for the MAG 85 if you're going for brighter. I've built a ROP recently with modamag 6AA adapter, fivemega LOP reflector and sanyo 2500mAh cells. I even wired up the switch to reduce resistance and the output wasn't  WOW! it was more like "DAMN!"


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## dksd39 (Jul 29, 2006)

No question Mag85 is brighter than the ROP but I would like to point out one thing. With my 2D ROP I can swap between two sets of batteries fresh off my MAHA charger---2500 Powerex or CPB1650---there is really no comparison in light output between the two. The CPB1650's produce a much brighter beam. Good luck with your build.


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## wayne21 (Jan 23, 2009)

I read your thread,and do not understand what you are using to get the voltage you are getting. I have a very old 2-D cell maglite which will fit a 8-AA 2650Mah NiMH using the ROP H bulb,it is very bright,but nothing else fit's it .even the Brass G-4 sockets are to big to fit. Now I have a newer 2-d cell maglite using the ROP H bulb . I use 6-AA NiMH and the brightness is not nowhere like the 8-AA setup,which will not fit the newer maglites. Now I tried 6-14500 3.7 volt lithium ion cells and they are no brighter then the 6 NiMH, when tested on a battery voltage tester they only put out a weak 9 volt reading. Do you know why 6 -14500 are not any stronger then the NiMH ? the 6 -14500 lithium battery holder is made by Five mega and seem's very well built but it only puts out a weak 9 volts according to the battery power tester. any help or reply will be greatly welcome. should 6 -3.7 volt batterys be puting out at lease 24 volts ? this is driving me NUT's please reply if you have the time,I will be greatfull for your advice or anyone who knows about this stuff....thank you wayne21


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## wayne21 (Jan 23, 2009)

where do you get the mag85 bulbs? I have been trying for months with no luck.If I was not living on a fixed income,I would just buy a monster flashlight from Fivemega,everything he has made that I have seen is very well made wayne21


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## EvilPaul2112 (Jan 23, 2009)

I use both the 2C ROP HOLA and 3C [email protected] 85 for duty use....The [email protected] 85 is definately brighter....I have perfromed every resistance fix possible, installed Download's C-Towers, and my lights run very efficient. The 85 has a visible edge over the ROP. 

FYI - I prefer potted 1185 lamps over the bi-pin models. IMHO they are more rugged and always remain in perfect focus during very rough use.


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## wayne21 (Jan 23, 2009)

Good luck, I found that the battery holders I bought will not fit into the newer maglites,the 6-AA fit well but the holder for 8-AA only fit into a maglite that I had for over 25 years even the cap or head are not interchangrable between the old and new maglite. so be sure before you spend your money. If anyone has anything to fit I would guess Fivemega is the man you would want to speak to. just thought you should know.


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## wayne21 (Jan 23, 2009)

What is the voltage of 6-14500, 6-AA put out 7.2 volts do the 14500 put out more ? IN a FM setup. Also I am using a 2-D maglite with 8-AA run them down a bit so the ROP will not fry. I get good use at 9 to 9.4 vilts according to my CHEAP meter,which is being replaced now. MY ROP -H- is also my brightest and has the tightest beam. My 3-D with 9-AA's and a 1185 seems bright,but I can not focus it tight enough,my 2-18650's in a 2-D with the WA 1111 will focus tight and throws better then my mag085,WHY ang can anyone tell me how to be able to tihten the beam on my 3-D?If I can tighten the beam on my 3-D maglite and get as bright as my 2-D woth The ROP-H with 8-AA's run down a bit to 9 to 9.4 volts ,I will be content or a happy camper. any suggestions are welcome. Thanks to fine people like Modocod and LuxLuthor I have learned a lot,and was able to get 2 good flashlights working. What about a high temp bulb socket? these take potted or bi-pin in a G-4 socket.bulbs,will a high temp setup be needed? My Mini maglite with the TL-3 bulb, Aluminum reflector, and a ceramic bulb holder,is dependable and brighter then expected,powered by 2-14500's. not a bad flashlight for close work. I REALLY NEED HELP ON MY 3-D Maglite? Also the bi-pin bulb keeps comming loose and falls out,I am afarid to try to bend the pins apart in center ,do not want to break it. I can not afford to be breaking anything foe at lease a month..any help is welcome best to reach me at home [email protected] THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR PAST HELP. wayne 21


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## wayne21 (Jan 23, 2009)

I thought the 1185 were all Bi-pin bulbs, If you will can you tell me where you can get them . around noon today I spoke with a sales person from the W.A bulb company,and they did not say anything about them,and I told them I was using then in a flashlight. thanks for the tip. I learn something new everytime I read these threads


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## BSBG (Jan 23, 2009)

wayne21 said:


> , If you will can you tell me where you can get them .s



Here: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=181713

Or here:

http://www.bulbconnection.com


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## maxspeeds (Jan 23, 2009)

scott.cr said:


> I have built both, and prefer the ROP low beam. It's not the biggest and baddest but easily built and rugged.
> 
> The ROP lamps are 7.2 volts, but I run mine on three CR123s with no problem (the low beam).
> 
> ...


 
I prefer the ROP Low too! I have a Mag85, and it is great, but many times too bright, and takes 3 li-ion cells. The ROP Low has plenty of runtime, lots of brightness, and is great all around :thumbsup:


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## mdocod (Jan 23, 2009)

wayne21,

Let me see if I can give you a hand...

I understand you're probably frustrated, but keep in mind that frustration and a mis-understanding of electronics can lead to problems, especially when you are dealing with lithium cobalt cells. Before you read further, if you really did measure 9V on your 6x14500 pack, please immediately take it to a place where a ball of fire would be an acceptable event. 




> I have a very old 2-D cell maglite which will fit a 8-AA 2650Mah NiMH using the ROP H bulb,it is very bright,but nothing else fit's it.



Just going to comment here, this is not considered a normal ROP build, for anyone reading this, 8 high current capable AA NIMH cells in a low resistance adapter in a mag that isn't riddled with oxidation will blow an ROP high instantly. The only reason this build is working is is a combination of factors that result in effective circuit resistance. The old switch in the old host probably being a big part of it. 7 NIMH cells is usually the limit for an ROP high, with 6 being the limit if you do all resistance fixes and are using high current cells, especially if you do a larger cell format build. 



> Now I have a newer 2-d cell maglite using the ROP H bulb . I use 6-AA NiMH and the brightness is not nowhere like the 8-AA setup,which will not fit the newer maglites.



Do some resistance fixes to the host, and use high current cells, and it won't be too bad, but more than likely your 8 cell setup is pushing the ROP to the absolute limit.. don't be surprised if you suffer bulb failures in the 8 cell setup 




> Now I tried 6-14500 3.7 volt lithium ion cells and they are no brighter then the 6 NiMH, when tested on a battery voltage tester they only put out a weak 9 volt reading. Do you know why 6 -14500 are not any stronger then the NiMH ? the 6 -14500 lithium battery holder is made by Five mega and seem's very well built but it only puts out a weak 9 volts according to the battery power tester. any help or reply will be greatly welcome. should 6 -3.7 volt batterys be puting out at lease 24 volts ? this is driving me NUT's please reply if you have the time,I will be greatfull for your advice or anyone who knows about this stuff....thank you wayne21



The FM "6x14500" adapter is a 3P2S (3 parallel, 2 series) configuration, the cells are NOT all in series, if they were wired in series (~22.2V), you would have either blown your ROP instantly, or triggered the high current limit on the cells instantly (if you have protected cells), either way, it would NEVER work with an ROP bulb in series. 

When you install 6 3.7V cells into this pack, you are making a 7.4V pack, with the "capacity" of 3 14500s. So, instead of a 22.2V 750mAH pack in series, it's a 7.4V 2250mAH pack in 2S3P. If you were to install 6 AA NIMH cells into it, it would be a 2.4V 7950mAH pack (assuming we were using your 2650mAH rated cells in this illustration). 

If you are charging your 14500s correctly, in a proper li-ion charger, you should NOT be getting 9V at the pack. You should read no more than 8.4V. If you ARE reading 9V at the pack, you might want to take it outside as it's about to explode and fill your home with toxic gases. (if it hasn't already)....

Calling 9V "weak" is like calling 9 gallons "weak." 9 gallons of what? water? gasoline? vodka? milk? red bull?
Voltage alone does not describe much of anything about the capabilities of a battery pack. 

Having said all that, before you proceed further, PLEASE take some time to read about safety issues surrounding li-ion cells. Your pack of 14500 cells, has a maximum safe discharge rate of right around 4 amps (~1.2-1.5A per cell). The ROP high bulb is right around there, usually a little over 4 amps, so you are already on the bleeding edge of the limits of these cells, possibly by chance or luck or whatever, but there's all sorts of opportunity for dangerous errors when using loose li-ion cells, especially in custom applications.

Eric


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jan 23, 2009)

Delvance said:


> Going from your post...wanting the brightest light.
> 
> Build a [email protected] . A top shelf [email protected] will have a figure of ~1200 bulb lumens. The ROP high can potentially get to ~1200 bulb lumens imho...but it's a fair bit harder to build a top shelf ROP due to the bulb being PR based. With the [email protected], go straight for a regulated setup to keep the bulb on the bleeding edge, or do a DD solution with CBP1650s and KIUs socket for low resistance.
> 
> Oh, a typical 2D ROP will have a bulb lumen figure of around 900 or less after sag imho (it's hard to give an accurate figure due to the build style and battery solution of the light).


How do you build a regulated Mag85?


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## LuxLuthor (Jan 24, 2009)

Wayne, it's not a good idea to post the same series of questions in multiple threads. I gave you my answer in the other thread, although the subject is off topic there.

The best advice is to slow down. Ask questions and give people some time to respond before you start buying. There are many differences between 1185 and ROP bulbs, not just in lumen output, but also current required, heat output, run time, bulb life, etc.

A regulated Mag85 requires a regulated driver that takes a higher voltage and steps it down to the ideal voltage for a given bulb. The Mag85 should have about 11.4V delivered to the bulb for maximum output and reasonable run time.

The only regulator that exists currently for the 1185 was made years ago by member AWR, and called the Hotrater. There are several members working on a new regulated switch/bulb holder, but that is not yet finalized.


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## mdocod (Jan 24, 2009)

wayne21,

I just read your duplicate question in the other thread (that I hadn't noticed until Lux pointed it out)...


In that thread, you mention that you are getting the same voltage with li-ion 14500s as you are with NIMH AAs in a FM adapter, which you didn't point out here... At this point, I'm not sure if my answer above is going to be entirely accurate, as I'm not 100% sure now which adapter you actually have. At this point I'm wondering if you have the cells installed incorrectly or something... 

Please, include all details in a question, and understand that a forum is not instant messaging, while the experts here spend a lot of time here, we can't live on here. 

Also, I noticed that the most recent re-iteration of the question you have posted in ANOTHER thread was posted AFTER I posted answers to it in this thread. You didn't even bother checking to see if your questions had been answered here before posting that. I realize you are new here, possibly new to online forums? To say the least, it's bad form, to be more specific, you need to exercise patience.


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## wayne21 (Jan 24, 2009)

Mdocod, yes I am new to these threads a week or two. to answer your question go with Fivemega's holders,they are the best built,the others i have are so cheap they will fall apart shortly. also yes the batteries were installed rite.I may be forum dumb but no one can be that stupid.the battery holders are made to put out just so much voltage, as I was told. and from what I have been testing for two day's now it seem's to be 100% accurate....one thing if I did not know postive from negative, I would have been blown into a thousand pieces years ago.in case you did not know a static electric pop will set off a cap in a second,but will not even spark a bulb.But you are rite I am very new to this,I never had time when I could work,now all I have is time and am trying to learn,instead of vegging out.


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## wayne21 (Jan 24, 2009)

LuxLuthor said:


> Wayne, it's not a good idea to post the same series of questions in multiple threads. I gave you my answer in the other thread, although the subject is off topic there.
> 
> The best advice is to slow down. Ask questions and give people some time to respond before you start buying. There are many differences between 1185 and ROP bulbs, not just in lumen output, but also current required, heat output, run time, bulb life, etc.
> 
> ...


LuxLuthor, thank you for setting me straight, you are rite and I will hit the skid's. I was ready to go out and get a 3 cell maglite untill I just found out from you that I can not just pop in a bulb and a loaded battery holder and expect it to work.. you just saved me a lot of wasted time on my feet that should not be wasted reckless. I owe you a thank you. I see I have very much to learn and truthfuly I do not think I should even try. just buy a five mega flashlight will be easy and in the long run better and cheaper...If you have any idea which flashlight I should get,I would be greatful for your input. You sure seem to know what you are doing. the knowledge you posted on these forums saved a lot people time and a lot more of their spending funds. fell free to contact me direct if you want to talk about Fivemegas flashlights. It sems to me you have the knowledge,and it will also save space on there threade which I am just learning how to get around. I do not even know if you will get this or if it will be posted.


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## jabe1 (Jan 24, 2009)

I've been following this thread and am very curious as to which brand of batteries you are using. Can you please let us all know?


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## wayne21 (Jan 24, 2009)

mdocod said:


> wayne21,
> 
> Let me see if I can give you a hand...
> 
> ...


Thank you for the info and the reply. I admit I know very little about modding these flashlights. Chemestry was always my thing untill 9/11 than I had to stop because of new laws and also my health. as dumb as I seem to you you may be surprised to know I still have all my fingers..I was told and read that you can run 4 lithium ion batteries back to back or in series as you call it, but not to push it beyond,and this was from a battery company, is this true? but from what I have learned tonight from you and Lux I am giving it up. I would never be able to face anyone I know if I blew myself up with a simple battery,after what I have played with through the years. But I am telling you the truth about the older maglite. the sandwish shopp sold me the battery holders, and I have drained 3 set's of batteries already with the same ROP-H bulb and it seems impressive to me. I lit up 6 Deer a few days ago,and they were lit good enough to take a few snap shots,but like this forum the pistures may not turn out because I used a new camera instead of the old 35 mm with 400 film. again I thank you for your input,for a while I will only read.untill I save enough to get a flashlight from Fivemega. good luck with your test


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## wayne21 (Jan 24, 2009)

wayne21 said:


> Thank you for the info and the reply. I admit I know very little about modding these flashlights. Chemestry was always my thing untill 9/11 than I had to stop because of new laws and also my health. as dumb as I seem to you you may be surprised to know I still have all my fingers..I was told and read that you can run 4 lithium ion batteries back to back or in series as you call it, but not to push it beyond,and this was from a battery company, is this true? but from what I have learned tonight from you and Lux I am giving it up. I would never be able to face anyone I know if I blew myself up with a simple battery,after what I have played with through the years. But I am telling you the truth about the older maglite. the sandwish shopp sold me the battery holders, and I have drained 3 set's of batteries already with the same ROP-H bulb and it seems impressive to me. I lit up 6 Deer a few days ago,and they were lit good enough to take a few snap shots,but like this forum the pistures may not turn out because I used a new camera instead of the old 35 mm with 400 film. again I thank you for your input,for a while I will only read.untill I save enough to get a flashlight from Fivemega. good luck with your test


After writting this you had me thinking, I just held 4 14500's in series and tested with my CHEAP tester,it peged out at 12 volts which is as high as it goe's. If I did not mention It I am using NiMH in the old maglite 8 AA's and it doe's not seem to get to hot,and as I stated before I ran down 3 sets already,I use it a lot. again I thank both you and Lux


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## SafetyBob (Jan 24, 2009)

Get a new [email protected], get some good batteries, an Fivemega battery holder, an AW switch, and FM's aluminum reflector and you will have THE ultimate light.....that is unless you can wait for the new regulated driver to be completed. Then you can have all sorts of fun with any number of batteries. 

Bob E.


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## mdocod (Jan 24, 2009)

Hi wayne21

If 4 cells are pegging out a 12V meter in series, but you are still only getting ~9V when they are installed in the series AA adapter, then something isn't right about the way the cells are loaded into the adapter. Or it's a series/parallel adapter, but you have indicated that this is the same adapter you use with 6AA NIMH cells and get a regular ~9V reading from. With the cells installed correctly into this adapter, 6x3.7V cells should give you ~24V fresh from a proper charge... Obviously, you'll need a meter that goes above 12V to confirm this 

There's no reason to give up on li-ion, you just need to know how to use it safely. What are you using to charge these cells?


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## LuxLuthor (Jan 24, 2009)

Wayne, indeed FiveMega has made some excellent mag setups, but have not seen any reasonably priced "complete package" mods offered by him for a while. (By complete package, I mean including glass lens, metal reflector, bulb holder, bulb, battery holder, and modded Maglite.) He may have some available now that I'm just aware of. They do come up for sale in the BST sales thread sections like these excellent deals from Choppers.

You are just at the starting point of this hobby, like all of us started out. You will find that CPF generally is a really nice community and people very willing to help each other out, so my advice is to just view this as a fun hobby and read/participate as you find the time & interest.

One excellent link that I have gone back to many times in sorting out the different information about batteries is a website called www.BatteryUniversity.com which is well indexed, so you can read about what you need.

One recommendation I would make when using Lithium batteries is to get a digital multi-meter ("DMM"), and so you can have it display higher than 12V. I bought my first "DMM" at RadioShack (similar to this model) for about $15, and it worked for me until I needed to upgrade 1-2 years ago.


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## wayne21 (Jan 25, 2009)

mdocod said:


> Hi wayne21
> 
> If 4 cells are pegging out a 12V meter in series, but you are still only getting ~9V when they are installed in the series AA adapter, then something isn't right about the way the cells are loaded into the adapter. Or it's a series/parallel adapter, but you have indicated that this is the same adapter you use with 6AA NIMH cells and get a regular ~9V reading from. With the cells installed correctly into this adapter, 6x3.7V cells should give you ~24V fresh from a proper charge... Obviously, you'll need a meter that goes above 12V to confirm this
> 
> There's no reason to give up on li-ion, you just need to know how to use it safely. What are you using to charge these cells?


Thank'a again for your input,but I proably did not mention that I did not put NiMH cells into FM's battery holder,the holder I used for the NiMH was a made cheap from brass welding rods.I do not want to bad talk anyone but you can see the holders on the site and they do not compair to the quality of FM's holders. For the time being I am slowing down,If time runs out befor I get A super flashlight so be it. The setup now is still good enough. last night 3:30am I was able to see 4 Deer with it. before going on with mods I will learn to use this Digital camera at night. again thank you for your time and concern.


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## wayne21 (Jan 25, 2009)

LuxLuthor said:


> Wayne, indeed FiveMega has made some excellent mag setups, but have not seen any reasonably priced "complete package" mods offered by him for a while. (By complete package, I mean including glass lens, metal reflector, bulb holder, bulb, battery holder, and modded Maglite.) He may have some available now that I'm just aware of. They do come up for sale in the BST sales thread sections like these excellent deals from Choppers.
> 
> You are just at the starting point of this hobby, like all of us started out. You will find that CPF generally is a really nice community and people very willing to help each other out, so my advice is to just view this as a fun hobby and read/participate as you find the time & interest.
> 
> ...


Thankyou again for your time and input,I will go get a better meter...but I did rush full speed into this which i knew at the time was wrong. I decided to slow down ,set up my loading bench before going on. I only reason for started this was to be able to mount it on a rifle and to be able to see my target GOOD at 300 yards. For night target shooting and Targets only. 30 years + loading and a life time of shooting I never bench rest long distance at night. time being a factor I got careless with the flashlights. but you and Mdocod took care of that. I am greatful to both of you. I hope to read more about your testing later on . And I wish both of you good luck.


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## Illum (Jan 25, 2009)

On account of bulb lumen alone...pictures should sufficiently do the talking. 
*ROP Vs Mag85 Beam Shots
**Big Bad ROP vs Big Bad Mag85: Beamshots*


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## wayne21 (Feb 13, 2009)

Hello.Mdocod. If and when you have time I would like to talk to you. Now I just recieved some Phillips 5761 bulbs 30 watt 6 volt. they will not fit through my reflector and the thread I read said they would. What do you think of these bulbs/ After all the time and advice you gave me ,if you want I will send you one,then you can tell me first hand if they are any goog..If you want to try one ,you proably already have , but tell me where to send it,it will be a small way to thank you. I am hoping to build a 3-D maglite mag85 or whatever. your help has gone a long way and thank you wayne 21 [email protected]. if you speak to luxluthor please inform him I have one for him to blow-up on his test. P.S If contacting you is out please inform me O.K I do not wish to be a nusance more then I already have been thanks again wayne


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## wayne21 (Mar 9, 2009)

eebowler said:


> Go for the MAG 85 if you're going for brighter. I've built a ROP recently with modamag 6AA adapter, fivemega LOP reflector and sanyo 2500mAh cells. I even wired up the switch to reduce resistance and the output wasn't  WOW! it was more like "DAMN!"


will wireing up the stock switch help much? also where can I find were to see how to do it .I am new to this ,that is why I ask questions. thank you for your time


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## wayne21 (Mar 11, 2009)

Can anyone tell me how to adjust the 3-D maglite to get a tight beam,It has a cammed reflector, but it is nothing like maglites stock reflector for focusing.I have a 2-D with a camless reflector made different then any others I have seen,I got luckey,I tightened it all the way down and the beam is tight.and powerful with 8-AA'a but due to the voltage I use one low battery until I can get a -AA dummy so I will not blow my ROP H bulbs which are brighter then my 3-D with 9-AA's and a 1185 bulb. All I want is to get mt 3-D a bit brighter then my 2-D and have them both dependable, I will be a happy camper. ANY Help on how to tighten the spot will be greatly welcom. some of you out ther have already helped so much I do not know how I can ever make it up to you and I do owe you Mdocod and LuxLuthor you two are great people with very much knowledge. you have my thanks. wayne21


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## mdocod (Mar 11, 2009)

wayne21 said:


> Hello.Mdocod. If and when you have time I would like to talk to you. Now I just recieved some Phillips 5761 bulbs 30 watt 6 volt. they will not fit through my reflector and the thread I read said they would. What do you think of these bulbs/ After all the time and advice you gave me ,if you want I will send you one,then you can tell me first hand if they are any goog..If you want to try one ,you proably already have , but tell me where to send it,it will be a small way to thank you. I am hoping to build a 3-D maglite mag85 or whatever. your help has gone a long way and thank you wayne 21 [email protected]. if you speak to luxluthor please inform him I have one for him to blow-up on his test. P.S If contacting you is out please inform me O.K I do not wish to be a nusance more then I already have been thanks again wayne



Hi wayne,

Very Sorry I didn't catch this question sooner.

I'm sorry to hear about your bulb not fitting, that's a bummer. I'm the type that would take it to the garage and drill and/or mill it out to fit, at the risk of causing some damage to the reflective coating on the reflector. You might keep your eyes out for aluminum reflectors with slightly larger hole diameters at the base.

The 5761 is a very popular bulb here. I have a couple, as do many people here. It's a great bulb because it accomplishes many things:
1. It's reasonably efficient for a high current, low voltage lamp.
2. It has a nice compact filament that produces acceptable beam shapes.
3. The price and availability isn't too awful bad on them. 
4. If you can keep the input voltage under control for either 6AA or 2xli-ion cells, it'll perform similar to an 1185 in that smaller package. 

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## mdocod (Mar 11, 2009)

wayne21 said:


> will wireing up the stock switch help much? also where can I find were to see how to do it .I am new to this ,that is why I ask questions. thank you for your time



In the google search box above I typed "switch resistance" and on top I found this:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/99710


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## mdocod (Mar 11, 2009)

wayne21 said:


> Can anyone tell me how to adjust the 3-D maglite to get a tight beam,It has a cammed reflector, but it is nothing like maglites stock reflector for focusing.I have a 2-D with a camless reflector made different then any others I have seen,I got luckey,I tightened it all the way down and the beam is tight.and powerful with 8-AA'a but due to the voltage I use one low battery until I can get a -AA dummy so I will not blow my ROP H bulbs which are brighter then my 3-D with 9-AA's and a 1185 bulb. All I want is to get mt 3-D a bit brighter then my 2-D and have them both dependable, I will be a happy camper. ANY Help on how to tighten the spot will be greatly welcom. some of you out ther have already helped so much I do not know how I can ever make it up to you and I do owe you Mdocod and LuxLuthor you two are great people with very much knowledge. you have my thanks. wayne21



Many bulb installations into a mag are going to require that you manually force the bulb into a lower position within the switch tower to achieve an ideal focus.

There's a very short little shoulder screw that runs up and down through the "slot" in the side of the spring loaded tower of the mag switch. You can remove that screw, and install a very small thin washer or something like it under it, or replace that screw with another with a regular wide head, in such a way that you can then use the screw to hold the position of the bulb down lower on the tower (lower than it normally is pressed by the cam function). 

Alternatively, you can slightly lower the position of the mag switch in the head. The socket-drive set screw that holds the switch in place within the body is accessible right down through the center of the switch. Remove the rubber cover, I think it's a 5/64" allen but I could be way off as that's only on memory and it's been a few months since I have taken one out. If you do this, you *might* need to rough up some of the anodizing on the inside of the mag-tube where that set-screw is going to relocate, as it needs to make electrical connection through the body, and the anodized surface prevents this. 

-Eric


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## wayne21 (Mar 11, 2009)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> How do you build a regulated Mag85?


 


I would also like a regulated 3-D mag85,but have no idea where to start or stop and everything in between ,Chemistry I am fair at . 
flashlight's I am dumb as a stump and admit it.


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## wayne21 (Mar 11, 2009)

eebowler said:


> Go for the MAG 85 if you're going for brighter. I've built a ROP recently with modamag 6AA adapter, fivemega LOP reflector and sanyo 2500mAh cells. I even wired up the switch to reduce resistance and the output wasn't  WOW! it was more like "DAMN!"


did re-wiring the switch make a lot of a differance? how hard was it / do you know where I can find out how to do it ,or would you recommend that I leave it alone, unlike you this stuff is not or was not my thing. but must admit the lumen Bug bit me hard.


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 12, 2009)

wayne21 said:


> did re-wiring the switch make a lot of a differance? how hard was it / do you know where I can find out how to do it ,or would you recommend that I leave it alone, unlike you this stuff is not or was not my thing. but must admit the lumen Bug bit me hard.



Read post #41


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## Patriot (Mar 12, 2009)

Are we still talking about the mag85?

I'm not comfortable telling folks to go for it when it comes to the resistance mods on the Mag85. Most of the 9 x AA mag85's have no trouble sending the bulb over 12.0V even after being off the charger for an hour. This is especially true for fresh cells. IIRC Lux Luthor had bulbs flashing at 12.3V or 12.4V during his destructive bulb testing. If nothing else, wait and see if you have any issues with insta-flashing before performing these mods on the 85.

What do you think Lux & mdocod?


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## sygyzy (Mar 19, 2009)

What is the safety range for voltages in a Mag85? I just pulled mine off the shelf and for some reason, running it at over 12v actually seems to produce a less bright light than running it at ~10.8v. Thoughts? 

Do I risk blowing the bulb at 12V? I know that by design the Mag85 is supposed to overvolt (?) the WA1185 bulb which is speced at only 9V, right?


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## Jarski (Mar 19, 2009)

I think that you can run it on 12v. Look at this chart from destructive incan thread; http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/bulbs/1185.jpg

Don't know how much it affects to bulb life.


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## sygyzy (Mar 19, 2009)

Thanks for the link *Jarski*


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