# Need Help with the "Roar of the Pelican" Mod



## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 24, 2006)

I am new to modding, and have only done some simple stuff in the past, such as replacing LED's in Dorcy 1AAA and modding Solitaire's to use Nichia LED's, but I really want a super power Maglite and the ROP seems to be the easiest/best option for me.
Can someone help me with the general knowledge of the ROP. I have read all the posts concerning it that I could find using the search feature. What I have learned is:It uses a 4D or 2D Maglite (I want to use the 2D), and It uses a 24W bulb from a Pelican light, and is unbelievably powerful!!!
I think I know all of the parts that are needed for making this light, but it would be nice if someone could tell me EXACTLY what to buy, and possibly where to buy it from. Are these all the parts involved:

Maglite 2D
24w bulb
52.1 mm glass lens 
metal reflector
3AA-to-D holders
rechargable batteries

Is this everything? Please inform me on this light, so that I know alot more. 

Thanks alot


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## eebowler (Jan 24, 2006)

ROP homepage.

 Battery adapters from modamag

 Cammed LOP and LS reflectors from fivemega

Camless reflectors from lightedge

or, you can get a few items from litho123  here.

The best batteries for a 2D mod are the CPB 1650 mAh, AA cells from  cheapbatterypacks.com Although they lack capacity, they maintain a higher voltage under load than higher capacity cells.

Borofloat lenses can be bought from litho above or from flashlightlens.com (who's out at the moment)

Big D bulbs can be bought from brightguy.com

With the ROP mod, you may need a micra heat sheild. I'm not too sure about that. :shrug:


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## KevinL (Jan 24, 2006)

No mica heatshield required - that one is a good for bipin mods, but the ROP uses a PR base, which seems very, very heat-resistant even with all the runtime I put on mine. 

Thank you for the EXCELLENT writeup on where to get the components!

I'll say it again.. for those planning to use alkalines in this mod, GOOD LUCK TO YOU  (use NiMH please, and preferably the good CBP1650 stuff)


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## falconz (Jan 24, 2006)

Erm... just to inform you all that I tried out using 6 x CBP1650 in a 2D Mag on the High output 24W of the pelican bulb.
It only lasted all of 10 mins before it dims to oblivion....

I think either a 4D(for more batts) or use the Mag 2C and 2 x 18650 batteries would be more recommended.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 24, 2006)

EEbrowler, thank you very much. That is exactly the response I was hoping for! 

I think I am going to stick with the 2D version, even though it has much worse runtime (as stated by falcon). I think it would be easier since I wouldn't have to mod the base of the flashlight, like I would with the 4D version.


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## bwaites (Jan 24, 2006)

falconz,

Something is up with your ROP. Running that configuration should get you 15-20 minutes before dimming. 

And NEVER let NIMH cells "dim to oblivion". That will damage them irreparably. In fact, if you have done that with the cells, it may be the reason that you are only getting 10 minutes out of them.

Bill


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 24, 2006)

Alright, I think I have almost everything figured out now. I only have one more question. What type of charger is needed to charge those CPB 1650 mAh batteries? I have a Energizer charger that is made for 2500 MAH batteries, would that work? My charger only charges 4 batteries at a time, so I figured I needed a charger that charged 6.

Thanks


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## bwaites (Jan 24, 2006)

The Energizer charger will work.

Bill


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 24, 2006)

bwaites said:


> The Energizer charger will work.
> 
> Bill


 
Oh, I figured it wouldn't I guess I was wrong. 

Anyways, can you recomend a 6 cell charger that will work really well with these batteries? I am hoping to find a 6 cell charger so that I can charge all of them at the same time (unlike my Energizer which only charges 4 at a time).

Thanks


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## eebowler (Jan 24, 2006)

adrion, Batterycharger has a groupbuy going on right now. Charger No. one (I'm buying one) will charge from 2-6 cells in series. You'll either have to get a 6 cell battery holder or ask cheapbatterypacks to make a triangle configuration out of your AA cells and do a little moding to get them to fit inside of the maglite. Check here  if you care to try.

There are many other chargers out there which you can use. Check out Silverfox's charger thread.

KevinL: comming from you, one cannot ask for a greater compliment;  :bow:


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 24, 2006)

EEbowler,


THanks for the help yet again. 

I don't know what you mean by "Triangle Configuration". I was planning on buying 2 of the 3aa-to-D holders. Won't that work just fine?


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jan 24, 2006)

I've never seen a CBP 1650 cell but I think they will work in 3AA-d adapters.

What you should do is beg, borrow or steal a FiveMega 6AA-2D. It is an AWESOME work of art that WORKS!


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## nickz (Jan 25, 2006)

You do not want (2) of the 3AA to 1D holders. You will be better served by a 6AA to 2D holder or an 8AA to 2D holder with 2 dummy cells. This will ensure a good fit with whatever cells you use from what I hear. This will cut down on resistance introduced into the circut. I use rayovac 2500's right now with 7AA and 1 dummy cell in a 2D ROP and I could not be happier with the results... Very bright and very white. This is overdriving the ROP HOLA bulb hard and life expectancy goes way down in this configuration. You will just have more options with the 8AA holder and 2 dummy cells than a 6AA x 2D holder. Just my opinion though.


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## eebowler (Jan 25, 2006)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> EEbowler,
> 
> 
> THanks for the help yet again.
> ...



I would advise you to go with modamag's 6AA adapter instead of two 3AA to D adapters. If you are looking cut costs by buying cheaper 3AA-D adapters, you'll also cut performance... Adapters will work just fine.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 25, 2006)

eebowler said:


> I would advise you to go with modamag's 6AA adapter instead of two 3AA to D adapters. If you are looking cut costs by buying cheaper 3AA-D adapters, you'll also cut performance... Adapters will work just fine.


 
Well... I already bought two of Elektrolumens 3AA-to-D adapters from another member on this site. I'm not looking to be a cheapskate at all, I just thought that using 2 of the 3AA-to-D adapters was the way to go? What are the differences between using two of the 3AA adapters VS. using one of the 6AA adapters?


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## falconz (Jan 26, 2006)

bwaites said:


> falconz,
> 
> Something is up with your ROP. Running that configuration should get you 15-20 minutes before dimming.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the advice on the NiMh but fortunately the cells are still ok. The Dimming is quite rapid and I switched it off before they drain away. Those were the first time I tried that batt config for the ROP so those were brand new CBP1650s. So I cannot find any reasons for the short runtime yet.

As for the Electrolumens 3AA to D holders, they cannot work with the CBP 1650 cos of the flat nipples at the positive end of the batteries. There would be little or no contact. I ran my six CBPs in Fivemega`s holders. That worked fine.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 26, 2006)

Damnit! I already bought 2 Elektrolumens adapters. Are you sure they don't work? The other site suggests them as the ones to use for this mod, and that is why I bought them.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 26, 2006)

These are on the ROP homepage, and the instructions on how to build a 2D ROP. 

"4B. If you want a smaller light or if you do not have the equipment to charge sticks, you can build the ROP into a 2D Mag if you use Elektrolumens’ excellent 3AA-to-D holders. You need two holders, and six CBP1650 AA cells from cheapbatterypacks.com (CBP)"

If my Elektrolumens holders won't work, what should I get instead? I want a 100% made 3aa-to-D holder (not a kit that I have to make myself). I also want one that the batteries can be taken out of and charged individually.


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## Icebreak (Jan 26, 2006)

In my experience they worked with CBP1650.

Modamags are less likely to break.


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## wtraymond (Jan 26, 2006)

falconz said:


> Thanks for the advice on the NiMh but fortunately the cells are still ok. The Dimming is quite rapid and I switched it off before they drain away. Those were the first time I tried that batt config for the ROP so those were brand new CBP1650s. So I cannot find any reasons for the short runtime yet.



I think you may have revealed the problem here. Brand new rechargeable NiMHs will not have full capacity until they've run through a few cycles - maybe 5-10 charge/discharge/recharges.

Your 10 minutes of runtime is normal on new cells. Expect that to double once your new cells are properly conditioned.

You can get two unprotected 18650 li-ions in a 2C Mag a get about 30 minutes runtime with the HOLA. If you must use the 2D you can still use the 18650s or you could fit four unprotected 17670s (two in series, two in parallel) and get about 40 minutes runtime.

CheapBatteryPacks also has a new sub-C cell the IB4200. You can fit six new IB4200s in a 6C Mag and get about one hour runtime from the HOLA.

The best capacity I've seen for an unmodified Mag will be the 2D sporting two of Emilion's 'D' size li-ions with 5200mah capacity each. Two of these in an unmodified 2D Mag will give you about one hour and 15 minutes with the HOLA.


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## eebowler (Jan 27, 2006)

adrion: can't exactly remember which thread I read it in but, someone said that the EL holders add enough resistance to the whole circuit to make the light output noticably less.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Jan 30, 2006)

Alright, I think I am going to go with a different kind of batteries. The CBP 1650 are becoming too much of a hassle, and I think that a battery that has a nipple on the top of the positive end would be alot easier to use. 
Besides the CBP 1650, which other battery would work best with my 2D ROP setup? I already have some of the Energizer 2500MAH, but if there is anything better, I am willing to buy them as well. Would the Amondotech 2600MAH work better than the Energizers?
I am also thinking about getting Modamags 6AA-2D battery holder (instead of using my 2 Elektrolumens holders), would that work better than what I currently have? 

I just want to get the very best stuff, but I also want to have a flashlight that is very easy to operate, and these 1650 batteries aren't very easy to use (because of the flat positive end).

Thanks alot to anyone who replies!


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 2, 2006)

Still hoping for some answers. I ordered Modamags 6AA-2D holder, since many of you suggested it.
So I currently have:

2D Maglite
Borofloat Lens 
Modamag 6AA-2D battery holder 

I also have some Energizer 2500MAH batteries, but am willing to buy something else (Amondotech 2600) that might be better, but it MUST have a nipple on the positive end.

I am also looking for a nice charger for under $40 that will charge all 6 batteries at one time. It doesn't have to be fast or anything, but must get the job done. 
So far this is the best one I have found:

http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1026

Will that work with Amondotech's 2600MAH or my Energizer 2500MAH?

I think that is everything, and I thank all the people who have helped me along the way!


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## TBY (Feb 2, 2006)

Don't forget an aluminum reflector and of course the bulbs!


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Feb 2, 2006)

May I suggest a LOP aluminum Reflector?

It doesn't kill throw much at all, but does take a LOT of wall hunting artifacts (not much problem in use) away.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 2, 2006)

OH, I forgot to add that I ordered a MOP cammed reflector from Modamag as well, and I will be ordering the bulb in the next few days too. 
So all I need are the batteries and a nice charger for them (that can charge all 6 at once). I was just hoping for some input on those 2 things.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 9, 2006)

I FINALLY have everything either in my possesion, or coming in the mail in the next few days. Here is what I ended up getting:

2D Mag (obviously. lol)
borofloat lens 
LOP Reflector (from Fivemega, with hole large enough to fit Big D)
6AA-2D battery holder (from Modamag) 
Big D bulb 
Energizer 2500mah batteries

I am now looking to get a charger that can charge all 6 batteries at once. I am planning on getting this one from Amondotech:

http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1026

I will most likely also order some 2600 MAH batteries as well. Will that charger work with my Energizers and with the 2600 MAH amondotechs?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 13, 2006)

Well guys, everything is finally completed. I got my bulb today and installed it. 

I have a few questions though. 
I got my reflector from fivemega, and the bulb doesn't stick very far out of it, is this normal? I ordered one from him that is made specifically for the ROP bulb, but I want to make sure it is fitting in the reflector correctly. 

Also, I have everything to make this thing work (batteries and all) but the only charger I have is my Energizer 4 cell charger. Can I charge my batteries in this? I would have to charge 4 at a time, and then charge the next 2 after the first 4 are done. Is this ok?

Thanks


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## LumenHound (Feb 13, 2006)

Is the reflector camless and if so, does the steel bulb retaining ring rest against the back of the reflector?
Have you locked the spring loaded bulb pedastal mid-way between fully extended and fully depressed?


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 13, 2006)

LumenHound said:


> Is the reflector camless and if so, does the steel bulb retaining ring rest against the back of the reflector?
> Have you locked the spring loaded bulb pedastal mid-way between fully extended and fully depressed?


 

The reflector is Cammed. I have no clue if it rests against the reflector or not. I screwed the ring all the way down (tight as it gets), so I hope not.


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## LumenHound (Feb 13, 2006)

With the flashlight pointing up, unscrew the lens retaining ring and set the ring and lens aside. Lift the reflector out. 

Looking into the flashlight, line up the the roller wheel on the bulb pedastal with the shortest part of the reflector's cam and slowly drop the reflector back in place. You should feel the pedastal spring push against the bottom of the reflector and the reflector should stand up and away from the fully seated position.

If you feel the spring trying to push against bottom of the reflector then that means that the bulb is able to go into the reflector as much as possible. 

Put the lens in place and tighten down the lens retaining ring. 

With the bulb sticking into the reflector as much as it will go, you should need to twist the head a bit to back the bulb out of the reflector a tiny bit for tightest beam. Backing the bulb out of the reflector past the "tightest beam" point will give you a increasing flood pattern with the expected donut hole.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 13, 2006)

Lumenhound,

Thanks alot. It looks like I had it right the first time. The reason I thought it might not be right is because the bulb doesn't stick out near as far as the stock bulb did.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 14, 2006)

Well guys.... MY ROP IS COMPLETE AND ROCKIN!!!!! My batteries finally got done charging this morning and I popped them into my ROP. Sweet crap this thing is bright! 

My only complaint is that I can't focus the beam down to a clean spot (like my TL3). When I focus it down all the way it has these ugly things beside the beam, and as soon as the beam is somewhat circular, there is a large hole in the middle. Is this normal, or is my reflector junk? I have a Cammed LOP, so I figured it would have insane throw from a smaller sized beam. Am I wrong?


Either way I would like to thank everyone who helped me on the way (trust me I needed it. lol). I always wanted to make one of these, but was afraid of the outcome. You guys made it possible!!!  :rock:


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## KevinL (Feb 16, 2006)

Congratulations


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 16, 2006)

Thanks kevin, but can anyone answer my question about the reflector? Is that normal? I want a spot in the middle (like my TL3), is that possible? If I can't get this reflector to work, I am willing to get another kind of reflector that is built for flood (Heavy Stipple maybe), because I can't stand how ugly the beam is when it is on spot, and I also hate the donut hole in the middle.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Feb 16, 2006)

You need to try to center the bulb well. I find I can usually rotate the bulbs in the PR holder to get near center.


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## eebowler (Feb 16, 2006)

LOL adrion, I was actually excited to hear the outcom. I'm glad you love it.


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## Icebreak (Feb 17, 2006)

Those artifacts you see beside the spot are expected. They are sometimes referred to as grins or a bowtie. I like different reflectors for different purposes. If I could have only one kind it would be a smooth reflector. Of course they throw furthest. Using a smooth reflector you can see the two bent images of the filament. Most excellent for perfectly centering the bulb. Also, I line the filament up with the switch so when I turn it on the bowties are horizontal. I use the bowties in real world use for left/right illumination.

Even using a heavily stippled reflector the spot will have a bit of an oval shape. The bowtie will seem to disappear but will actually become part of the spill and a small contributor to the spot. I like light stipple for a nice beam. A medium stipple is a good choice IMHO. Many people like a heavy stipple. The reflector I really want would be stippled in the first 1/3 to 1/4 of the deepest part of the reflector transitioning to smooth. That would handle the bowtie and yield a hot spot.

Speaking of grins, did your light pass the grin/chuckle test? When you fired it up and focused it did you feel compeled to chuckle and could not help but smile?


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## ddaadd (Feb 17, 2006)

Hope you build many more, then you can help someone new get started.

My only suggestion when you want to upgrade, would be to consider the CPB 1650's. They fit in Fivemega's holder just fine, you will certainly see a difference.


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## aosty (Feb 17, 2006)

Icebreak said:


> Speaking of grins, did your light pass the grin/chuckle test? When you fired it up and focused it did you feel compeled to chuckle and could not help but smile?



I finally assembled my ROP-LE this evening and........ :naughty:


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## Icebreak (Feb 17, 2006)

Icebreak said:


> Speaking of grins, did your light pass the grin/chuckle test? When you fired it up and focused it did you feel compeled to chuckle and could not help but smile?





aosty said:


> I finally assembled my ROP-LE this evening and........ :naughty:


:goodjob:


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 17, 2006)

Alright, thanks for the response icebreak. I was really hoping for a beam that had was similar to my TL3 (but brighter). I think I might get a stippled reflector. If I can't have a perfect spot, I would like a light with a TON of flood (which I believe the heavy stipple does). 
Yes it definetly passed the Grin test.  Unbelieveably powerful. The power was everything I expected it would be, I just wish the beam was a little more pretty.




Icebreak said:


> Those artifacts you see beside the spot are expected. They are sometimes referred to as grins or a bowtie. I like different reflectors for different purposes. If I could have only one kind it would be a smooth reflector. Of course they throw furthest. Using a smooth reflector you can see the two bent images of the filament. Most excellent for perfectly centering the bulb. Also, I line the filament up with the switch so when I turn it on the bowties are horizontal. I use the bowties in real world use for left/right illumination.
> 
> Even using a heavily stippled reflector the spot will have a bit of an oval shape. The bowtie will seem to disappear but will actually become part of the spill and a small contributor to the spot. I like light stipple for a nice beam. A medium stipple is a good choice IMHO. Many people like a heavy stipple. The reflector I really want would be stippled in the first 1/3 to 1/4 of the deepest part of the reflector transitioning to smooth. That would handle the bowtie and yield a hot spot.
> 
> Speaking of grins, did your light pass the grin/chuckle test? When you fired it up and focused it did you feel compeled to chuckle and could not help but smile?


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## lexina (Feb 18, 2006)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> I was really hoping for a beam that had was similar to my TL3 (but brighter). I think I might get a stippled reflector. If I can't have a perfect spot, I would like a light with a TON of flood (which I believe the heavy stipple does).
> I just wish the beam was a little more pretty.


 
get the heavy stipple and you won't regret it - the throw will suffer a bit but the beam will be as close to SF quality as you can get. i have tried LOP, MOP and HS thus far and the HS is my favorite. stay away from the MOP if you don't want to see the shape of the filament reflected in the beam. have already ordered the SMO and LS too for comparison.


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## Icebreak (Feb 18, 2006)

I agree with lexina's advice. HS fits your purposes and I think you'll like it.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 18, 2006)

Great, I think I will go with Heavy Stipple. One thing though, where can I get a Cammed Heavy Stipple that will fit the Big D bulb? I don't know how camless reflectors work, so I think I will stick with the cammed, unless one of you guys can explain them.


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## eebowler (Feb 19, 2006)

A cammed reflector works just like the original, plastic maglite reflector to focus the light if you still have the plastic bulb post etc.

The camless reflector is used more by those who have the Kiu kit since focusing isn't 'possible' anymore. Some focusing can be achieved by screwing or unscrewing the flashlight head but most just finds the best focus and leaves it alone.


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## HenryE (May 31, 2006)

I have a good reflector and have modified my switch, and have a good lens and bulb. Now I need six good sub-c cells plus a decent way to charge them in series while in the 4D host. What's the best tried & true solution?


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## Turbo_E (May 31, 2006)

now order the 8 AA holder from Modamag, 1 dummy cell and run 7AA's. you will be blown away.


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## illumiGeek (Jun 8, 2006)

Note that the problem mentioned about the EL 3-to-D adapters were for the FIRST version. The "V2" works fine. I have 4 of them and have run them with a variety of lamps (up to 4A+ loads). The lock tabs do seem like they should break easily from the way they look, but mine have been abused and have held up surprisingly well (I have dropped the light hard enough to pop the cap off of the holder a few times, and the tabs are all still intact).

Of course that custom 6 cell holder is awesome.

I also have the 8-AA to 2-D adapter and have run the Peli lamp from 7 cells for even more brightness. I have been tempted to try it on 8-cells, and last night I decided to go for it. I figured it would insta-flash, but it didn't!

I used 8x2200 Energizers (instead of the cells I usually use) and they weren't fresh off the charger (they had been resting for a few days). With 7xE2200 cells it seems slightly brighter than with 6 high drain cells. With 8 it is a lot brighter and whiter. Whiter than my WA1160 6-cell light (and that was the whitest incan I had).

I'm still expecting a flash with fresh off the charger cells, but I haven't tried it yet. I figured I'd run through the remaining charge and enjoy it before the final smoke test.

Does anyone esle run into the problem of the light head fogging up after a few minutes, or is that just a "Hawaii" thing (high humidity)? Both my ROP and WA1160 modded Mags do that.

Another "interesting" issue I had was once after the light had been running for several minutes I heard a loud "BANG!" and it scared the crap out of me. I quickly went to turn the light off, and noticed the little rubber button cover was gone. I waited a while for everything to cool down and then took the light apart. The lamp, batteries, holder and switch were all fine.

It seems the heat inside the light had built up enough pressure to blow the little rubber cap off of the switch with enough force to create a loud noise. Nothing was actually wrong, but it did startle me.

I found the rubber cap and replaced it and have not had a repeat of the incident. I remember thinking I should poke a little pin hole in the cap, but I don't recall if I actually did that.


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## Rayne (Jun 9, 2006)

That's pretty crazy it was strong enough to pop the rubber thing off. When I eventually make one of these I hope that fog thing doesn't happen as I am from the same place.  Grats on making one adiron! Does anyone know if 3 rechargable 123s in a 2C Mag body would be enough to power the light or does it have to be those 2 unprotected cells?


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