# New light kits for select SureFire lights!!!



## luxlover (Oct 19, 2007)

Hello Surefire light users,

For the last month I have had the pleasure of evaluating two samples of light adapter kits that will change the way you think about your SureFire (SF) lights. Each kit consists of a light module and one of two types of tailcap. The light module has a medium orange peel reflector, a Cree Q5 WC emitter (samples came with Cree Q2 WC emitters) on a brass heatsink and 2 electrical contact springs. Each tailcap is made of aluminum with an HA II finish (samples are bare aluminum), and has 2 external activation buttons and an internal electronics package. The kits will mate with the following SF light models.....G2, G3, G2Z, Z2, 6P, 9P, C2, C3, L5, L6 and M2. In other words, any SF light using a P60 or P90 lamp module assembly can use the kit. My evaluation was done using my G2 and 6P lights.

The light module replaces the stock SF lamp module assembly in the above lights, and the tailcap replaces the stock SF tailcap. The light modules are identical in each kit. But the tailcaps differ. One uses a ramping brightness level progression (5lm to 220lm, continuous) and has a disorienting strobe. The sample kits have a 5lm-180lm rating, continuous. The other uses a 5 step brightness level progression (5lm-20lm-90lm-140lm-220lm). The sample kits have a 5lm-45lm-90lm-140lm-180lm rating. It has an emergency strobe as well as a disorienting strobe. Both tailcaps are identical on the outside and inside. The electronics are inside the tailcap and not in the light module. The regulation circuit in either tailcap can handle CR123, R123, 17650 or 17670 cells, as long as the voltage doesn't exceed 18v. This means that a 9P light with the use of a single cell extension tube, can use 4xR123 (16.8v), 2x17650 (8.2v), or 2x17670 (8.2v) cells.

Notice the 4 cutouts at the end of each the tailcap. The edges are "slightly" sharp for use as a tactical weapon. But the edges are not sharp enough to cut a user not wearing gloves. This compromise was made to allow usability by anybody. The side button in the pictures does not have a textured button. The production version will have it. The 6 sided machining with flattened corners, is an anti-roll feature. The knurling is shallow in depth.


*RAMPING TAILCAP*

To operate the ramping mode.....
Press the end button to turn on the light. Quickly press again and hold to ramp from minimum brightness to maximum brightness. Release at any time, and press/hold to go in the opposite direction. At any time, press the side button (a momentary switch) to initiate a burst at the maximum level. Release the side button and return to the previous brightness level. Press the side button from off, to activate a maximum burst. Release to turn off. At any time during the ramping process, release the end button and press it again to turn off the light.
 
To operate the disorienting strobe.....
Press/hold the side button immediately followed by press/hold the end button to activate the disorienting strobe. Release to return to the previous brightness setting.


*5 STEP TAILCAP*

To operate the 5 step mode.....Press the end button to turn on the light at the minimum brightness level. Press once for each desired increase in level. The change in level with each press is clear. At the 6th press, the light will turn off. Press the side button to activate maximum burst between steps. Release to return to the previous stepped level. Press the side button at any time for maximum burst. Press the side button to turn off the light at any time.

To operate the disorienting strobe and emergency strobe.....
As in the ramping tailcap, press both buttons to activate the disorienting strobe. Release both buttons to activate the emergency strobe. Press either button to return to the previous brightness level.


*These light module kits are the brainchild of **Mike of OpticsHQ, and will be available only from http://www.opticshq.com *They will retail for $80-$90. They are currently in production, and will be available on his website soon. For those who want the versatility of Mike's kits at a low cost, SF's G2 is the lowest priced light at $36 retail. This means that a "complete lighting solution" can be had for $116 to $126.

The overall length of a G2 with the kit is 5.6" (142.2mm). The original length is 5.14" (130.6mm). The overall length of a 6P with the kit is 5.8" (147.3mm). The original length is 5.20" (132.1mm). The maximum diameter of either tailcap is 1.27" (32.3mm). Both tailcaps tailstand.
 
For both kits, the estimated runtime using 2xCR123 cells at maximum output is 2 hours (120 mins.).

Per Mike's request, I took beamshots of my 6P and kit using 2xCR123 cells. You will see a beamshot of the 6P side by side with my PR-T bezel on a SF-L4 body. Also, you will see a beamshot of the 6P side by side with my HDS U60 light modded with a Seoul USXOH emitter.

Camera = Canon PowerShot A620 (7.1Mpixel).
F-stop = 2.8.
Shutter speed = 1/250 sec.
 Distance between lights = 15" (381mm).
Distance of lights from wall = 10" (254mm).
Distance of camera from wall = 34" (863.6mm).

 Light kit/6P on left.....PR-T bezel/L4 body on right






Light kit/6P on left.....HDS w/Seoul emitter on right





Light Kit on 6P






PR-T on an L4 body





HDS U60 w/Seoul emitter








Light kit/6P





Light kit/G2





Light module - heatsink and emitter - front view





Light module complete - external





Tailcap - internal





Tailcap - external





Light module installed in G2





*USER IMPRESSIONS
*1. Of the two lights I used with the kits, I like the G2 better due to it's lighter weight.
2. The user interface for both versions couldn't be easier. In fact, the ramping tailcap works exactly like that of the Night-Ops Gladius. The ramping is the smoothest and most uniform of any light I have seen. Also, it take a little longer to go from min. to max. or vice versa, than on the Gladius. Note that the production versions of the kits will have a 5lm to 220lm range!
3. The end button has an aggressive rubber surface, and the tactile feel is excellent with or without the use of a glove.
4. The conical springs in the light module and tailcap have been bent inward, so as not to gouge either end of a battery case.
5. It is not possible for the light to come on accidentally from the side button, since it is at a level below that of the flattened hexagonal machining.
6. Both switches have good tactile feel and an audible click, and the endswitch has just the right amount of throw before activation.
7. Looking into the reflector, one can see the emitter within the reflector without any space around it. In fact, the bottom of the reflector is on a flat plane with the emitter, and even that surface is reflectorized.
8. The beam quality is the best I have seen in any light using a Cree emitter. The typical rings are less prominent than on any other Cree equipped light I have seen.
9. The disorienting strobe is slightly slower than that of a Gladius, and the emergency strobe is about one flash per second.
10. In the cigar grip, the hexagonal machining provides a comfortable stop for the index and middle fingers.
11. As seen in the beamshots, the hotspot is intense, making either version ideal for tasks requiring long throw.
12. The proximity of the side and end buttons to each other is good, allowing easy access to both buttons without any finger manipulation. In fact, the side button is in line with one of the 4 tailcap cutouts provided for tailstanding.

All in all, the engineering in these kits is excellent, with everything relating to human engineering having been well thought out.


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## PhantomPhoton (Oct 19, 2007)

With true CPF spirit, I'd might buy them both. (provided they don't cost more than the surefire body) Both would have advantages and disadvantages.
But if I had to choose one I'd say the stepping brightness would be quicker for getting the needed amount of light out.

On a more nagging note 
I would wager that some really don't want or need 5 levels of output. Myself I'm generally pretty happy with 2 or 3. Low low and high high. A mid level for decent light at good runtime is okay. The option for strobe is good but many likely won't want a strobe. Beacon is also useful but sometimes not wanted. Some will want Max to Min instead as well. This is where it becomes a sticky situation; everyone wants something a little different.


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## Preben (Oct 19, 2007)

I think 5 levels is more than enough. Make it three levels (one of which really low for reading), Type III anodizing, drop the strobe and get rid of all sharp edges, and I'm in for one. (Oh yeah, I'm most likely in for one anyway ;-P )


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## karlthev (Oct 19, 2007)

Well hot damn Jeff, nice review!! I was wondering what the devil you've been doing!!



Karl


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## luxlover (Oct 19, 2007)

PhantomPhoton said:


> With true CPF spirit, I'd might buy them both. (provided they don't cost more than the Surefire body) Both would have advantages and disadvantages.
> But if I had to choose one I'd say the stepping brightness would be quicker for getting the needed amount of light out.
> 
> On a more nagging note
> I would wager that some really don't want or need 5 levels of output. Myself I'm generally pretty happy with 2 or 3. Low low and high high. A mid level for decent light at good runtime is okay. The option for strobe is good, but many likely won't want a strobe. Beacon is also useful, but sometimes not wanted. Some will want Max to Min instead as well. This is where it becomes a sticky situation; everyone wants something a little different.


Note that if you could get a body and head without a tailcap, as unusual as that may be, that would be all you need to utilize either kit.

True, the five step is as quick as you can click levels. The ramping kit is nice and slow, offering more light levels between the 5lm and 220lm range.

A guy like you couldn't be too overwhelmed by owning a five level light when only needing two levels. The spacing between the five levels is distinct.

Keep in mind that the way to initiate either strobe requires a simultaneous press/hold of both buttons. You never have to use either strobe because of this. Some lights cycle their brightness levels before and after their strobe function. That is not intelligent design.

I will ask Mike if there is any plan to have a min. to max. step function. Know that there are practical reasons why all features and functions we may happen to think up cannot be incorporated in a single light. The ability is there, but the cost is prohibitive!

Jeff


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## luxlover (Oct 19, 2007)

karlthev said:


> Well hot damn Jeff, nice review!! I was wondering what the devil you've been doing!
> 
> Karl


Thank you kindly, Sir. The sample evaluation business is laden with all kinds of hardships and obstacles.

Now that a month long project is complete.....back to my prime objective, and you know what THAT is!!! 

Jeff


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## luxlover (Oct 19, 2007)

Preben said:


> I think 5 levels is more than enough. Make it three levels (one of which really low for reading), Type III anodizing, drop the strobe and get rid of all sharp edges, and I'm in for one. (Oh yeah, I'm most likely in for one anyway ;-P )


I would agree that 5 levels would suffice. You can grab the max. faster with the 5 stepper than with the ramping. But those who want more of a selection will have it in the ramping unit. I don't think that an HAIII finish could be applied without affecting the price point.

Jeff


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## cfromc (Oct 19, 2007)

I voted for ramping but I'm not really sure. I know this is perfect timing though as a have a C3 I was about to put a Wolf-Eyes 4-mode into but this looks a lot better. Only thing is, I would need an HAIII tailcap. This thing sounds awesome and I'm sure other people would want the HAIII. If there is enough interest and it costs a few bucks more, I wonder if it is a possibility....?


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## tsl (Oct 19, 2007)

On either of these tailcaps, when you turn the light off and then back on at a later time, will the light turn on at the last level of brightness, or will it always turn on to a particular preset level?


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## luxlover (Oct 20, 2007)

cfromc said:


> I voted for ramping but I'm not really sure. I know this is perfect timing though as a have a C3 I was about to put a Wolf-Eyes 4-mode into but this looks a lot better. Only thing is, I would need an HAIII tailcap. This thing sounds awesome and I'm sure other people would want the HAIII. If there is enough interest and it costs a few bucks more, I wonder if it is a possibility....?


It seems that HAIII is the preferred finish for these kits. I myself was wondering why HAII was selected by Mike. Look at this page of the SureFire website for the answer..... http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/max_segment_listing/disp/strfnbr/6/sesent/00#battery-incand
Of the lights that are compatible with the kits, only the C2, C3, M2 and L5 have an HAIII finish. The others are either Nitrolon or have an HAII finish. I think that these kits were selected to be used with the more budget lights in SF's arsenal. I will ask Mike if he thinks that changing from HAII to HAIII would be possiible, being that production has already started.

Jeff


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## karlthev (Oct 20, 2007)

Well, glad to see that you're on top of this Jeff, as well as up at this hour!!:nana:


Karl


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## luxlover (Oct 20, 2007)

tsl said:


> On either of these tailcaps, when you turn the light off and then back on at a later time, will the light turn on at the last level of brightness, or will it always turn on to a particular preset level?


With either tailcap, turning off the light will not return the brightness level to what it was before it was turned off. In the case of the ramping version, it will start ramping at the minimum level. In the case of the 5 step version, it will start at step 1, the minimum level.

I suggested to Mike that there be a simple memory feature incorporated to allow this, but he said that the amount of programming needed to accomplish this enhancement would create a problem for the engineers. As it stands, there is no memory of any type in the circuitry, meaning that when the light is off there is no trace current draw from the power source to maintain any previous setting. With these kits, OFF means that the circuit is totally isolated from the power source.

Jeff


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## luxlover (Oct 20, 2007)

karlthev said:


> Well, glad to see that you're on top of htis Jeff, as well as up at this hour!!:nana:
> 
> Karl


I woke up a few minutes ago, well rested and feeling like a June bride. I am curious to see where this thread will lead.

Jeff


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## cfromc (Oct 20, 2007)

I, for one, am glad that the light does NOT have the memory feature. I want a light that starts at the same level (low) every time so I am not surprised and blinded when I turn it on. Also, since the circuit is truly off, the batteries should last longer. The light will be a vehicle light and may not be used for weeks or months at a time; I don't want any draw on the batteries while not in use. 

I have to admit, I'm excited about these light kits :twothumbs. Any rough idea when these will start to be available? (Paypal is ready)


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## luxlover (Oct 20, 2007)

cfromc said:


> I, for one, am glad that the light does NOT have the memory feature. I want a light that starts at the same level (low) every time so I am not surprised and blinded when I turn it on. Also, since the circuit is truly off, the batteries should last longer. The light will be a vehicle light and may not be used for weeks or months at a time; I don't want any draw on the batteries while not in use.
> 
> I have to admit, I'm excited about these light kits :twothumbs. Any rough idea when these will start to be available? (PayPal is ready)


Good reason to start a light on low.

The amount of juice drawn to retain a setting in memory is usually in the microamps, which is effectively nothing especially when you are talking months without the light being used.

Mike told me that he will get shipment in 45 to 90 days, so let your PayPal account rest some more. This is a sure thing, and is NOT vaporware stuff.

Jeff


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## BargainMonkey (Oct 20, 2007)

I've been away from CPF for a while and come back to find this. Looks very exciting. I'm voting for ramping because I'd like that best, but the 5 steps sound like it should work fine. I just want to clarify one thing, does the light need to be turned on for the side button to give max brightness? Can I pull the light out of my pocket and either press and hold the side for max brightness or click the end for min brightness? Any ideas if this is going to be a regular production item or is it going to be a limited time, jump on it while it's available, kind of thing? Thanks luxlover.


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## Xygen (Oct 21, 2007)

Wow! That sounds very promising. But I wonder what the lightmodule for the L5 and L6 will look like! A complete head?


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## luxlover (Oct 21, 2007)

BargainMonkey said:


> I've been away from CPF for a while and come back to find this. Looks very exciting. I'm voting for ramping, because I'd like that best. But the 5 steps sound like it should work fine. I just want to clarify one thing. Does the light need to be turned on for the side button to give max brightness? Can I pull the light out of my pocket and either press and hold the side for max brightness, or click the end for min. brightness? Any ideas if this is going to be a regular production item or is it going to be a limited time, "jump on it while it's available", kind of thing? Thanks, luxlover.


Welcome back, and let's boogie.....
The potential of these kits is enormous. Those who already own an SF light will have a multi-level top notch LED solution. Those who want one, will have to buy a SF light. My G2 works greatly with either kit, and it is the least expensive SF light. Everybody wins!

The side button in either version initiates a maximum burst of light every time you press it.....period! Both versions turn on at minimum brightness when you press the end button. These tailcaps are a pleasure to use.

As long as SF is in business, and keeps making the models listed or new models with the same thread patterns on both ends, these kits will be in demand. Why wouldn't they be? Beats me!

Jeff


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## luxlover (Oct 21, 2007)

Xygen said:


> Wow! That sounds very promising. But I wonder what the light module for the L5 and L6 will look like! A complete head?


Good question. In the 2 SF lights I have been using, the light module fits inside the head like a glove. I will bug Mike tomorrow about the method of conversion with SF's L5 and L6 lights. He may have had other beta testers use the kits on these. I am as much in the dark about this as are you! Stay tuned........

Jeff


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## Xygen (Oct 21, 2007)

Great! Thank you!


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## nein166 (Oct 22, 2007)

Thats a neat switch and it would be interesting to see run times possible on 4xR123 or 2x17670 using a four cell body.


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## luxlover (Oct 22, 2007)

Xygen said:


> Wow! That sounds very promising. But I wonder what the light module for the L5 and L6 will look like! A complete head?


Mike just wrote me the following, regarding your question.....
"Well, for now, what it means is that the TAILCAP will work with an L5 (the existing SF LED). We are working on a conversion head and tailcap for E series, but it will take a while."


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## luxlover (Oct 22, 2007)

nein166 said:


> Thats a neat switch and it would be interesting to see run times possible on 4xR123 or 2x17670 using a four cell body.


No can do, Brian. Mike supplied me with a 6P and one extension tube. The best I can do is 3xR123 cells, totaling 12.6v off the charger. It would be like testing a 9P, which would be interesting since the stock 9P can only handle 3xCR123 cells with it's incandescent lamp module.

I think that using my 17670 cell in my G2 would be a nice little test. I wonder how the circuit will function on 4.2v as opposed to 6v (2xCR123)? Stay tuned.....

Jeff


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## Xygen (Oct 22, 2007)

Good to know! That means the tailcap will be sold individually, right?
Looking forward!


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## Zman (Oct 22, 2007)

Let me first start by saying this looks pretty nice! I would also be one in favor of a simpler version. Very low, medium and high would be plenty for me as well.


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## PhantomPhoton (Oct 23, 2007)

I do like the ability to instantly access strobe and High power. Definitely thinking about picking one up when they become available. Hoopefully low is low enough. 

Anyway...What color will they be anodized in? Black, Grey/Nat? Who do I need to ki... errrr um... _negotiate _with to get HAIII?


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## BargainMonkey (Oct 23, 2007)

I was just thinking, by simply reversing the buttons this would actually make a pretty darn good "tactical" light. Most of the multi-level lights have a way too complicated UI with multi-clicks and the like. If you reversed the buttons the tailcap would still give a momentary 100% brightness just like a stock Surefire. The multi-level capability wouldn't get in the way under stress, but you could use the side button for lower levels when you wanted to. I could see something like that being a good challenge to the Gladius at a lower cost.

If we're voting for colors my first choice is HA black if possible or standard black if not since I'm going to be using it on a 6P or a D3. It would be nice if there is an option for HA natural as well since I'm sure that would be very popular. Also, I'm hoping the scallops aren't too sharp. It's a lot more likely to tear up my pocket than I would need to use it to smack someone in the head.


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## FlashSpyJ (Oct 23, 2007)

what Bargainmonkey said! I would like to see it like that rather than as It is now. It makes the most sense to me, getting the highest mode by pressing the end tailcap, in a stress situation that would be the best, otherwise you might end up fumbling to find the side button.
just my opinion though.


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## luxlover (Oct 23, 2007)

xygen and PhantomPhoton,
I sent Mike an email with your questions. So sit tight and hang loose!

Jeff


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## mr45acp2u (Oct 23, 2007)

I think that Bargainmonkey hit the monkey on the head. As an LEO I feel that switching the switches would make it the perfect upgrade. 

When I want the light right now, it needs to be 100%. When writing a ticket or navigating, there is time to set up the light for dimmer light, but if needed BAMMM, easily right back to the bright light.

I will be in for at least one if this upgrade can be done, and the E2 upgrade, but dont make these as sharp and square, for most people the E2 is a pocket light.

thanks for listening to more input
mr45acp2u


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## m1ruf (Oct 23, 2007)

"I think that Bargainmonkey hit the monkey on the head. As an LEO I feel that switching the switches would make it the perfect upgrade. 

When I want the light right now, it needs to be 100%. When writing a ticket or navigating, there is time to set up the light for dimmer light, but if needed BAMMM, easily right back to the bright light."

+ 1 on that!

The two buttons and their features (instant high, strobe) sound great.
However I also think that if somebodys wants low or any other brightness setting other than high , he will be happy to use the side switch. The rear switch just HAS to be high if possible. 
This would increase the lights capability as a tactical-/dutylight upgrade. Just think of all the LEOs/military who already own and use a SF light: we're talking about a HUGE market here! 
As a LEO you could use say ur 6p or G2 as bright primary light (brighter & better throw than P 60, longer runtime, no worries about broken bulbs) and for everyday tasks without killing ur retinas (e.g. checking IDs). 

Surely Luxlover can convince Mike to interchange the function of the two switches: just think about the possible sales if properly andvertised and proven reliable!



Another question comes to my mind: Will there be any heat issues with Nitrolon lights like with the Malkoff P 60?
Even if there were and you could only run the light on MAX for say 10-15mins you could always switch back to lower mode and STILL have light. How often do you have to use a light on MAX for more than a few Minutes anyway (its just nice to know that you COULD still have light at all if u know what I mean) ?

Sounds like theres a Gladius upgrade on its way for our beloved Surefires for 1/3 the price of a Gladius (AND brighter)


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## luxlover (Oct 23, 2007)

This just in from Mike via email....
"The standard finish will be HAII black. The first production run will be set at 1,000 pieces total (I am not sure yet the specific breakdown between 5 step and infinite, probably close to half and half). We will produce 300 pieces in HAIII (I am not sure yet how much more they will cost, nor whether they will be natural or black).

At this point, I am not planning to offer the tailcap separately from the kit.

This was originally developed for military use, and I followed their guidelines. While for civilian and LE use, reversing the function may very well be a good idea (and it is definitely something that we will consider for future production runs). For the military, the primary concern is that the max. output not be activated accidentally (which most likely will happen, since most users will automatically reach for the tailcap button). There are no plans to change the design at this point (such as reversing the function of the switches), but all comments are appreciated and will be considered for future developments."

Jeff


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## PhantomPhoton (Oct 24, 2007)

Thanks for the Q&A luxlover.  If its HAIII I'd take it in Pretty Pony Pink.


I think the reversing of max function is an interesting suggestion. I'd want to play with one though before making any final judgment about whether or not it would be better. I'm more concerned about how easy it will be to access the side switch and tailcap at the same time for strobe.


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## NoFair (Oct 25, 2007)

FlashSpyJ said:


> what Bargainmonkey said! I would like to see it like that rather than as It is now. It makes the most sense to me, getting the highest mode by pressing the end tailcap, in a stress situation that would be the best, otherwise you might end up fumbling to find the side button.
> just my opinion though.


 
+1 on this.


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## luxlover (Oct 27, 2007)

Yous guyses spoke, and Mike listened. This is an email I just received from him, and it will warm your hearts.....
"I spoke with the factory, and it seems a fairly easy work to reverse the function of the 2 switches. Therefore, we will make a SMALL quantity reversed. However, in order to do that, the people who want one like that will have to *pre-pay* when I open the pre-order next week. Otherwise, we are not going to do that."

Jeff


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## mr45acp2u (Oct 27, 2007)

You have made some very happy people. I hope to be first in line for the prepay. :twothumbs

mr45acp2u


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## Lighthouse one (Oct 27, 2007)

Hey Jeff, Where do you learn to take such great photos? yuk,yuk.....

Good looking project....we are waiting!


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## BargainMonkey (Oct 28, 2007)

Very nice. Thanks to Mike and luxlover. I was going to be happy with the standard configuration, but I may just have to prepay and go for the reverse configuration. This sounds like it's going to be the very best multi-mode user interface that I've heard of.


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## luxlover (Oct 29, 2007)

Lighthouse one said:


> Hey Jeff, Where do you learn to take such great photos? yuk,yuk.....
> 
> Good looking project....we are waiting!


I learned from you, the BEST in the north, south, east or west!!! Thanks for the "push" to pick up a tripod about 6 months ago. Now I am a "crack" photographer!

Jeff


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## PhantomPhoton (Oct 29, 2007)

I have another question if you don't mind.
The LED Module that comes with the switch, how's the regulation on one 3.7V LiIon? How far down will it stay in flat regulation? 3.7V? 3.3V? I'm assuming at higher voltages it is flat.
I like that it takes up to 18V. :devil: 
Just trying to figure out what kind of host I should have ready for it. (and I wish Leef would ship more C to C bodies to Lighthound)

Thanks again


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## FlashSpyJ (Oct 29, 2007)

I have two questions!

First, is there any runtime specs for the lower outputs? Approx 2 hours on high with 2 X CR123 batt...but how long on 5lumen or 15 lumen? I want to know so I can compare it to the Dereelight, 20 hours on low.

Second, are theese kits going to be available outside the US?


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## Ratyoke (Nov 1, 2007)

When does the pre order start? I don't see anything on the website.


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## OpticsHQ (Nov 2, 2007)

Ratyoke said:


> When does the pre order start? I don't see anything on the website.


I will probably start it next week and post an update here


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## Xygen (Nov 2, 2007)

Mike, I have a L5 and a L6. So I don't need the "light module".
Is it possible to buy just the tailcaps? Or do you sell it as a kit only?


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## OpticsHQ (Nov 2, 2007)

At this point we will only offer the kits. That may change in the future, but no promises...


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## BargainMonkey (Nov 9, 2007)

Mike, any ideas when the preorder will start? I'm definitely in for one reverse tailcap in black. This sounds like a great product and I think it will be big success for you.

Any chance of an E series version in the future?


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## OpticsHQ (Nov 9, 2007)

BargainMonkey said:


> Mike, any ideas when the preorder will start? I'm definitely in for one reverse tailcap in black. This sounds like a great product and I think it will be big success for you.
> 
> Any chance of an E series version in the future?


I will try to have it started next week. As far as E series, we are looking into it, but I am not sure what we can come up with yet


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## Any Cal. (Nov 9, 2007)

I love the concept and the execution, but I want the end button to be HI also. Currently trying to sell a kidney so I can get in on the preorder.


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## FlashSpyJ (Nov 19, 2007)

notting new huh?


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## OpticsHQ (Nov 19, 2007)

FlashSpyJ said:


> notting new huh?


Sorry for the delay, everyone. The kits are on track and I will try to get a pre-order going today. Will post an update here as well.


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## FlashSpyJ (Nov 19, 2007)

"excellent!" 

now the hunt is on for some leef bodys!


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## OpticsHQ (Nov 19, 2007)

The pre-order thread has been (finally) started here http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?p=2087465#post2087465

I appreciate Jeff's assistance and everyone's comments. You guys :rock:


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## illusion (Nov 20, 2007)

Any Cal. said:


> I love the concept and the execution, but I want the end button to be HI also. Currently trying to sell a kidney so I can get in on the preorder.



+1


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## OpticsHQ (Nov 20, 2007)

Any Cal. said:


> I love the concept and the execution, but I want the end button to be HI also. Currently trying to sell a kidney so I can get in on the preorder.


That would be the Reverse version


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## BigD64 (Dec 2, 2007)

+1 to barginmonkey and Mr45apc2u


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## RGB_LED (Dec 8, 2007)

OpticsHQ said:


> I will try to have it started next week. As far as E series, we are looking into it, but I am not sure what we can come up with yet


I've been waiting for something like this for my E2L! :thumbsup: Please let us know if / when this light kit will be available for the E-series! Thx.


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## Ratyoke (Dec 8, 2007)

I would like to also voice my support for one for the E series. I am waiting for the one I ordered for my G2, if its as cool as it looks I would definitely get one for my e2d.


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## OpticsHQ (Dec 8, 2007)

RGB_LED said:


> I've been waiting for something like this for my E2L! :thumbsup: Please let us know if / when this light kit will be available for the E-series! Thx.


I already have the sample for the E series. However, I do not see us doing the kit with the tailcap (the ergonomics are wrong  ). We will offer the conversion head though using the Q5 LED (stay tuned for updates  )


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## BargainMonkey (Dec 12, 2007)

OpticsHQ said:


> I already have the sample for the E series. However, I do not see us doing the kit with the tailcap (the ergonomics are wrong  ). We will offer the conversion head though using the Q5 LED (stay tuned for updates  )



Mike, I'm really looking forward to seeing what you release for the E series. I can understand not being able to do the same type of tailcap. It's just way too small to have two buttons on it. How about something like the Photon Freedom interface? Click to start at full power or press and hold to start at minimum power. Hold down the button to ramp up or down or click to turn off. It's a very simple interface if you just want to click for full power and click to turn it back off but the extra levels are still easy to get to. Not sure how feasible something like that would be, but I'd love to see it.

Also, any ideas on when the C series kits will be shipping? I'm sure you're probably swamped, but I just wanted to get an idea if it's going to be before the holidays or if it will be next month. Thanks!


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## FlashSpyJ (Dec 12, 2007)

Bargainmonkey hit the monkey on the head again! 

That would be an awsome interface for the E series! If that would work on the L4, it would make me a really happy camper! Would sing combajaa all day long!


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## OpticsHQ (Dec 12, 2007)

BargainMonkey said:


> Mike, I'm really looking forward to seeing what you release for the E series. I can understand not being able to do the same type of tailcap. It's just way too small to have two buttons on it. How about something like the Photon Freedom interface? Click to start at full power or press and hold to start at minimum power. Hold down the button to ramp up or down or click to turn off. It's a very simple interface if you just want to click for full power and click to turn it back off but the extra levels are still easy to get to. Not sure how feasible something like that would be, but I'd love to see it.
> 
> Also, any ideas on when the C series kits will be shipping? I'm sure you're probably swamped, but I just wanted to get an idea if it's going to be before the holidays or if it will be next month. Thanks!


The kits are are scheduled to be delivered to our warehouse by the 17/18th, so we should be able to deliver most, if not all, pre-orders before Christmass. At the same time, I should also receive a small quantity of the conversion heads for the E series (there will be some HA3s for the E1 and E2, and some black with aggresive crenelations for the E2D), which should also work with L4. At this time we will probably only offer the heads and look into some sort of tailcap later.


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## SAVAGESAM (Dec 13, 2007)

Can you order just the tail cap?


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## Burgess (Dec 14, 2007)

This sounds very interesting. :thumbsup:



BTW, any possibility of adding an S-O-S mode ? 


(okay, okay . . . . just kidding . . . . put down those baseball bats !)


_


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## FlashSpyJ (Dec 14, 2007)

Burgess said:


> This sounds very interesting. :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




LOL!!


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## KDOG3 (Dec 15, 2007)

Oh wow. I'm definetly looking into this...


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## OpticsHQ (Dec 15, 2007)

SAVAGESAM said:


> Can you order just the tail cap?


I believe I answered that one previously, but in any case, at this point we will be offering complete kits only


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## SAVAGESAM (Dec 15, 2007)

OpticsHQ said:


> I believe I answered that one previously, but in any case, at this point we will be offering complete kits only


 Sorry must of missed it. If it changes let me know please. Or, if you sell them at a store in S.F. let me know.


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## Billman730 (Dec 19, 2007)

luxlover said:


> No can do, Brian. Mike supplied me with a 6P and one extension tube. The best I can do is 3xR123 cells, totaling 12.6v off the charger. It would be like testing a 9P, which would be interesting since the stock 9P can only handle 3xCR123 cells with it's incandescent lamp module.
> Jeff


Well I ran out to the truck and grabbed my 9AN from the truck. Of course the useless Ni-Cads were both dead but the 4 sf123's totaling 12 volts burnt the bulbs out in a second. I am machining an aluminum tube to hold a total of 4 sf123's [two sets of sf123a batteries] I can wire in [pairs of 2] parallel and it should work after I get the bulb pack replacement. A good idea actually as I never use the light these days for anything else...


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## Billman730 (Dec 19, 2007)

I am very interested in the tailcaps with side button for strobing! Wow I will be looking for those to come in. Sometimes at night agressive bums come around looking for trouble around the tracks. This may be the hot setup for added protection to get back in the truck and split LOL...


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## FlashSpyJ (Dec 26, 2007)

I have a question, will the tailcap twist all the way in and not leave a big gap like the pictures shows?

It looks really funny having the tailcap like that, I havent thought about it before, I have one on the way and Im hoping they will twist allt the way in...


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## madecov (Dec 29, 2007)

luxlover said:


> With either tailcap, turning off the light will not return the brightness level to what it was before it was turned off. In the case of the ramping version, it will start ramping at the minimum level. In the case of the 5 step version, it will start at step 1, the minimum level.
> 
> I suggested to Mike that there be a simple memory feature incorporated to allow this, but he said that the amount of programming needed to accomplish this enhancement would create a problem for the engineers. As it stands, there is no memory of any type in the circuitry, meaning that when the light is off there is no trace current draw from the power source to maintain any previous setting. With these kits, OFF means that the circuit is totally isolated from the power source.
> 
> Jeff



I have not read the entire thread to see if there are any updates, but. This alone has me out. I don't want to ramp or click through power levels to hit high power. I generally use high power and go to lower settings when I need those. Most times I need high power.


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## mr45acp2u (Dec 30, 2007)

madecov

The reverse tail cap would be for you then. 100% power when needed, from the main button, no ramping. The ramping is obtained by the smaller side button. When you have time and want the dimmer light.

This was recomended by some of the members here, and Mike made arangements to make some of the kits this way.

I am hoping to get mine any day:twothumbs.

mr45acp2u


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## Numbers (Dec 30, 2007)

My understanding is that no matter which version you get, regular or reverse, the non-main button will always give instantanious high but you must continue to hold the button down to keep the high level. To click the high level on, from off, you use the main button and either click or ramp to high. I believe I have that right.

I am looking forward to thge rviews!


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## Rat6P (Jan 1, 2008)




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## SAVAGESAM (Jan 1, 2008)

Same thing here. Also wonder why you can't buy just the tail cap?


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## FlashSpyJ (Jan 1, 2008)

Getting more and more fat eating this much popcorn qwaiting for it to arrive! 

Really looking forward to it, this is the latest purchase I did last year. And it might be the last for a while if Im pleased with the UI


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## SAVAGESAM (Jan 1, 2008)

You gotta eat the popcorn DRY no butter. lol


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## OpticsHQ (Jan 8, 2008)

FlashSpyJ said:


> I have a question, will the tailcap twist all the way in and not leave a big gap like the pictures shows?
> 
> It looks really funny having the tailcap like that, I havent thought about it before, I have one on the way and Im hoping they will twist allt the way in...


I am not sure. I will test them and check if it is possible to make a flush fit.


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## OpticsHQ (Jan 8, 2008)

Sorry for not replying, just got back from vacation. The kits and the conversion heads are sitting in the stock room ready for testing and shipping.


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## FlashSpyJ (Jan 8, 2008)

cant wait to get mine! 

Its last years xmas gift to myself


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## BargainMonkey (Jan 8, 2008)

Thanks for the update Mike! Really looking forward to this. Any ideas when you'll start taking orders for the new e-series conversion heads?


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## OpticsHQ (Jan 8, 2008)

BargainMonkey said:


> Thanks for the update Mike! Really looking forward to this. Any ideas when you'll start taking orders for the new e-series conversion heads?


As soon as I test them and provided I am happy with the results. I might even ask for a couple of volunteers to test and post reviews (don't ask yet, I have not decided  )


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## OpticsHQ (Jan 19, 2008)

Sorry for a bit of a delay. Both the HA3 versions of the kits and the E-series conversion heads have been added to our site and I am about to post/update in the CPFM


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## Zman (Jan 19, 2008)

Are there any photos available? I don't see any one your site or on the marketplace yet. 
thanks!
Charlie


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## OpticsHQ (Jan 19, 2008)

Zman said:


> Are there any photos available? I don't see any one your site or on the marketplace yet.
> thanks!
> Charlie


Here's the reply I posted in the CPFM:

I will provide free samples to 5 volunteers who are willing to do an in-depth review. Requirements: at least 3-5 previous reviews; having the lights that these are designed for




; publishing a review within a week of receipt of samples. 

So as we do not clutter this thread, those who are interested should contact me by email at [email protected] I will post the results here.


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## cfromc (Jan 19, 2008)

OpticsHQ said:


> Sorry for a bit of a delay. Both the HA3 versions of the kits and the E-series conversion heads have been added to our site and I am about to post/update in the CPFM


 
I couldn't find the HAIII on the website, can you point in the right direction?

Edit: Nevermind, found it


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## FlashSpyJ (Jan 22, 2008)

So have anyone else received and tried their light kit?

I have mine, and I dont know if Im having an unusual problem or not. I cant twist the tailcap all the way down. This causes that I dont get any connection between the tailcap and light body. I have sorted this by inserting a short spring in the tailcap. The gap between the tailcap and the body are 5-6mm, the same distance on the gap outside the body. Im using a SF 6P, and this happens on my 9P as well. Havent tried it on a G2 yet. But one would think that it should work, perhaps they measured the threads on an older SureFire or on a G2?

The gap isnt that big of a problem, but it kinda bugs me that i have to apply a spring when it should work right out of the box.

Other than this the kit works very nicely! Finally I got variable output on a SureFire!


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## BargainMonkey (Jan 22, 2008)

Mine behaved extremely strange when I got it. If I screwed it all the way down it went constant on. If I backed it out a little it went out. The buttons didn't do anything in either case. I played with it for a while and thought for sure I had a defective kit. Then all of a sudden it started working. I can now screw it all the way down and it works like it should. The gap looks about like a standard LOTC would be, maybe 2 or 3 millimeters at the most.


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## FlashSpyJ (Jan 22, 2008)

Pewh!

I got it to work! I dont dare to say its ok to do so, but when the tailcap didnt twist any further I then used a wrench to twist it. After a bit of force it got loose and twisted all the way down. At first the light acted like BargainMonkey described it. So I twisted the tailcap back a bit, and now it works just fine!

This really made a different on the appearance and feel! Now Im really happy with it! :thumbsup:


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## FlashSpyJ (Feb 26, 2008)

anyone found a good holster for this setup? Im running 6P with this tailcap, and a FM34 diffuser.
I find that the light turns on when carrying it in a pants front pocket, or even a jacket pocket sometimes.


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## BargainMonkey (Feb 27, 2008)

Has anyone else had a problem with it draining batteries when not in use? My batteries seemed to be dying prematurely when not being used so I checked it last night and it looks like it was drawing .9ma off 2 rechargeables when it wasn't in use. I still love the interface and I'm going to keep using it. I'm just switching to using rechargeable batteries and giving the tailcap a half turn or so to lock it out when not in use.


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## FlashSpyJ (Feb 28, 2008)

I run primarys in mine, just measured and didnt seem to draw any current when not on.


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## FlashSpyJ (Feb 28, 2008)

Does anyone know if the SureFire 6P LED works with this kit?
I tried it with a DX led, and it acted really weird! Couldn't turn the light of, and couldn't dim the light.


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## BargainMonkey (Feb 28, 2008)

Thanks FlashSpyJ. I'll contact Mike and see what he says.


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## Beastmaster (Feb 28, 2008)

FlashSpyJ said:


> Does anyone know if the SureFire 6P LED works with this kit?
> I tried it with a DX led, and it acted really weird! Couldn't turn the light of, and couldn't dim the light.



Yes. It works with a P60L LED Lamp Assembly.

I also notice that with certain lamp assemblies, I get this strange coil whine.

I also have found that the batteries drain far quicker. I've only experienced this with rechargeables. I haven't put in primaries into it yet.

-Steve


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## GlockDoc (May 14, 2008)

Any new user reports on this?


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## OpticsHQ (May 14, 2008)

GlockDoc said:


> Any new user reports on this?


There are a number in the Reviews section


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## 276 (May 15, 2008)

what does the reverse kit do as suppose to the other & what do u mean by NAT that cant be (natural) is it


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## OpticsHQ (May 15, 2008)

276 said:


> what does the reverse kit do as suppose to the other & what do u mean by NAT that cant be (natural) is it


The Reverse means that the functions of the buttons are reversed, i.e. tail button will be momentary high instead of side. The NAT stands for HA3 Natural (otherwise they are black)


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## 276 (May 17, 2008)

thanks


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## RWT1405 (May 17, 2008)

I couldn't find any in the reviews section (user reviews that is).


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## OpticsHQ (May 17, 2008)

RWT1405 said:


> I couldn't find any in the reviews section (user reviews that is).


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/187582
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/188464
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/187677
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/187573

These are just the ones I could find quickly, but I think there are some more.


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