# Any recommendations for an interior insertable threading tool?



## Mirage_Man (Jun 21, 2008)

I just broke my last insert for my inside Thinbit threading tool. Rather than ordering more inserts for it I am thinking about trying a different tool. I have seen several different types i.e. lay-down, on-edge etc... I was hoping you guys would share your experience and preferences for this type of tool. _Specific brands, models and sizes would certainly help._

Most of the threading I'm doing is either 20tpi or 32tpi and mostly Aleph/E-series compatible parts in titanium as you might have guessed. I would of course like some room to work but the smallest bore will be around .762". I like to get as close to the inside shoulder as I can too.

I think that covers it but if there's anything I didn't mention let me know.

So what do you recommend?


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## PhotonFanatic (Jun 21, 2008)

Brian,

I presume you are only cutting right hand threads, most likely by feeding the tool holder/insert toward the headstock, which would be rotating counterclockwise.

If getting close to an interior shoulder is of paramount importance, then you need to consider cutting the threads by outfeeding the tool holder and insert, while the spindle is rotating clockwise. To do that, you will need to use left hand tools and left hand inserts.

While there are many very good brands out there, I'm partial to Sanvik. They make some great carbide threading bars and carbide inserts to go with them. And now that you're cranking out those high-priced Ti pieces, you can afford them 

Sorry, but I'm not able to supply exact part numbers and sizes. I would just suggest that you call your local Sandvik distributor and tell them what you want to do.


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## Anglepoise (Jun 21, 2008)

I have been very happy with ThinBit inserts and for the sort of work we all do, hard to beat. Priced right and very good quality.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 21, 2008)

Anglepoise said:


> I have been very happy with ThinBit inserts and for the sort of work we all do, hard to beat. Priced right and very good quality.



I use many of their stuff too. It's just that @ $16 an insert with only one cutting edge it can get expensive when you break them. I was hoping one of the types with 3 cutting edges might work just as well.


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## fludunlimited (Jun 21, 2008)

this is the one I was told to get
http://www.jlindustrial.com/KTH-48759C/SEARCH:MFR/product.html#

I havent ordered one yet but plan to in a week or so.


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## Anglepoise (Jun 21, 2008)

As PhotonFanatic says,Sandvik make some very nice stuff.
But its also pretty pricey. I use one of their boring bars with a triangular insert. I know they make 60° insets as well but you have to buy they 12 at a time that also is expensive. I have a small copper diamond impregnated lap and use this to sharpen all my carbide.

Do you snap your threading inserts often?


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## precisionworks (Jun 21, 2008)

The triangles are nice, and you do get 3x the life per insert ... but ... each insert size cuts only one tpi size. _Some manufacturers state otherwise, but watch out._ That may or may not be a problem for what you want to do.

In a Carmex insert, 20tpi is *16 IR 20 UN*. The inscribed circle is 3/8".

The 32tpi is *16 IR 32 UN*.

Most likely, their T20 coating is the one for Ti, but phone or email first. Their website, carmex dot com, lists toolholders also.


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## wquiles (Jun 22, 2008)

Since I sold almost all tooling to Milky along with the small lathe, I have been buying new tooling for my larger/heavier 8x14 lathe. I just got a SECO Snap-Tap Internal Threading Holder with with partial profile (48-8 TPI range) threading inserts (3 corners!). I just started using for creating internal threads on cut down 1C's, and it is working GREAT, plus it was on special and more so with the extra 20% off!

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=195&PMITEM=RZ619-3811

I will try to post a picture soon 

Will


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## wquiles (Jun 22, 2008)

OK, here is some more tool porn ...

Here is my new internal threading tool next to the old one (which I still need to send to Milkey!):












and some more closeups:


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## gadget_lover (Jun 22, 2008)

I guess I'm cheap. Really cheap.

I still use the same internal threading tool as Will used to use. It's a small Harbor Freight (1/4 inch shank) indexible insert holder designed for cutting to a shoulder, using the back end of the tool instead of the tip. It works reasonably well for 16 - 32 tpi. I also have some nicer micro100 threading tools. 

But what makes a 5 inch long piece of steel worth $101 as is the toolholder in Will's post. Is it an exotic metal? Is it set to some perfect angle that we can't grind ourselves? Is it just the name?

I still want one, but that's beside the point.

Daniel


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## Rothrandir (Jun 22, 2008)

There is a lot that goes into a toolholder, proper rigidity and support being one of the most important things. Material type, pocket quality, repeatability, angle, all can make a big difference. If you're not in a big hurry, and can take time to mess around getting things to cut well, some of the above may not be that important to you.

For internal threading, I use "TOOL-FLO" BB-312S for smaller sizes, and laydown threading Vardex bars for >.750" or so
The tool-flo holder is nice, because it accepts groove inserts as well as (single-sided) threading inserts. (BNVR-60 GP4 for the 60degree inserts)
I think the bar and a box of inserts was probably around $200? Can't recall, it's been a few months...

For real small stuff, ph Horn has some very nice tools also. (threading well under .250")

Full profile is nice, but for a home shop, a regular 60degree tool works well, and if you need to run some hogs hair or paper over the tips, that's not a big deal.
Having thousands of dollars worth of threading inserts that you rarely, rarely use sucks


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## PhotonFanatic (Jun 22, 2008)

The local Sandvik distributor sells threading inserts by the one, so it's not such a huge outlay of cash to get a range of thread sizes. I've had the same batch of threading inserts since I bought them over a year ago. True, I'm not cranking out high volume, but the point is that with three points per insert, plus their durability, the cost isn't that much.

I'd also suggest getting full form threading inserts, as they make life much easier for the home machinist--you don't have to spend an inordinate amount of time ensuring that your diameter is exact--the full form insert takes care of making perfect threads for you.

As for why pay a lot of money for tool holders? That's like asking why one should buy a Ferrari rather than a Focus. The performance is different. :devil:

Seriously, a carbide bar has much greater rigidity than a steel bar, resulting in better threads, period. And that is especially noticeable when threading in the 4-7X diameter lengths.


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## wquiles (Jun 22, 2008)

I think Daniel is right in that the smaller tool can do the job - so one does not "have" to buy the more expensive tool that I got. But now that I have used both, the "nicer" tool that I got is much stiffer and easier to use (plus my 8x14 lathe is much stiffer, heavier, and solid anyway - that helps as well). Is it worth the $60-70 I paid (on special)? For me it was - I definitely prefer cutting threads with it 

Will


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## precisionworks (Jun 22, 2008)

> But what makes a 5 inch long piece of steel worth $101


Time invested, nothing but time ...

Not from the standpoint of the manufacturer, as they use a 5-axis machining center + EDM to produce those beautiful holders. You can easily make them in the home shop, given enough time. We made dozens when I worked in the machine shop, as the supervisor enjoyed tinkering & was a top notch toolmaker to boot.

I bill out shop time at $50/hour, and could probably knock one out for $200 including time, materials, heat treat cost, black phosphate cost, etc. $101 makes more sense to me. Or hunt eBay & maybe spend $50.

_The lathe is the downpayment, the tooling is the monthly mortgage.


_


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 22, 2008)

Anglepoise said:


> Do you snap your threading inserts often?



Frequently enough that it's got me looking for another system. The inserts that come with the Thinbit Mini threading system are very fragile. If I don't roll out of a thread at the right time chances are it will grab and snap. In aluminum it's not as big a problem but in ti it is. My lathe has some to do with it too but that's another story which will be remedied very soon .


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## jhanko (Jun 22, 2008)

Just for the record, that holder & insert that Will has is on sale now. Also, with the 20% off, it's a great deal. I just ordered the holder, 1 internal insert and 1 external insert for $96 and free shipping.

Jeff


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 22, 2008)

JHanko said:


> Just for the record, that holder & insert that Will has is on sale now. Also, with the 20% off, it's a great deal. I just ordered the holder, 1 internal insert and 1 external insert for $96 and free shipping.
> 
> Jeff



That does look like a decent threading tool. However it has a minimum bore of .750". which is too tight for the work I'm doing. On a [email protected] it would be fine though. I need something more along the lines of a mini threading tool for my application.

I think I'm gonna pick up a Micro 100 threading tool tomorrow to get me through until I decide which system to go with. I'll do some more looking into the ones recommended here.


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## PhotonFanatic (Jun 23, 2008)

Half inch diameter, including the insert--this gets into 95% of the lights that I'm building. Anything smaller and I use some Sandvik CorocutXS threading bits.






Laydown insert with three points lasts a long, long time.


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## scott.cr (Jun 23, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> I think I'm gonna pick up a Micro 100 threading tool tomorrow to get me through until I decide which system to go with.



I picked up a Micro 100 as a "temporary" tool too! That was three years ago. Have done dozens of internal threading jobs with it and it still looks new. It was like $32 from mscdirect.com.

"There's nothing more permanent than a temporary setup" hahaha...


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## wquiles (Jun 23, 2008)

PhotonFanatic said:


> Half inch diameter, including the insert--this gets into 95% of the lights that I'm building. Anything smaller and I use some Sandvik CorocutXS threading bits.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I like this one - like a mini-me version of the one I got!

Who makes this one?

Will


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## PhotonFanatic (Jun 23, 2008)

Will,

Sandvik cardide bar and Sandvik insert.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 23, 2008)

PhotonFanatic said:


> Will,
> 
> Sandvik cardide bar and Sandvik insert.



Leeme guess... the bar is like $400 right?


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## PhotonFanatic (Jun 24, 2008)

And worth every penny of it! 

eBay is your friend, though, from time to time.


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## PEU (Jun 24, 2008)

For outside turning I bought this cheap set, not sandvik quality but for ALU it does the job very well: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180255977515

For inside threading and boring I have a couple of bars locally manufactured by http://www.schloher.com.ar/indexingles.asp their prices are good and the quality is excelent. I plan to buy more from them soon 

Also Im waiting for a MT3 ER40 chuck for the lathe, I have a collet set for the mill but wanted to use it also on the lathe 

Pablo


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## wquiles (Jun 24, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> Leeme guess... the bar is like $400 right?



At that price, my $60-70 thread tool looks cheap or "frugal" by comparison :nana:


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## precisionworks (Jun 24, 2008)

> the bar is like $400 right?


Carbide bars are much like Ti lights ... you'll wonder how you ever did without them. In harder materials like Ti or SS, a carbide bar usually produces a better thread finish, as the bar is much more rigid. Same when boring with a carbide bar, except that you can bore about twice as deep without chatter.

If the bore is large enough, a bigger bar is the cheap solution. The one below (on my 10" South Bend) is 1.750"


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 24, 2008)

Yeah, my Thinbit threading bar is carbide. It's 1/4" shank. It was like $150 IIRC. The thing is the inserts being $16 a piece with only one cutting edge per insert erks me when the others I see with 3 cutting edges are the roughly same price. I guess its a situation of pay me now or pay me later.


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## Anglepoise (Jun 24, 2008)

The ThinBits are ground all over making them extremely sharp. Most other generally available inserts seem to be 'pressed' and are NOT as sharp. If this makes a difference in threading I do not know, but in parting off, my ThinBits outperform every other parting off insert I have ever used and I put this down to rigidity and their sharpness.


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## Mirage_Man (Jun 25, 2008)

Well, since I think I would like to stick with a solid carbide bar in the new system I'm gonna have to wait a little longer. I have a rather large purchase that I'm saving my pennies for . So I ordered a few more Thinbit inserts to hold me over.


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## cmacclel (Jul 1, 2008)

wquiles said:


> Since I sold almost all tooling to Milky along with the small lathe, I have been buying new tooling for my larger/heavier 8x14 lathe. I just got a SECO Snap-Tap Internal Threading Holder with with partial profile (48-8 TPI range) threading inserts (3 corners!). I just started using for creating internal threads on cut down 1C's, and it is working GREAT, plus it was on special and more so with the extra 20% off!
> 
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=195&PMITEM=RZ619-3811
> 
> ...


 

Will exactly what I use.

Mac


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## PEU (Jul 1, 2008)

reading that enco page I have one doubt, why would one choose the partial profile insert over the full profile one?

I also have a tool holder like the one in Will's photo, but a local brand (uses 16mm inserts)

These days I will purchase one for external threads and another one for parting.

Asked prices and the external threading toolholder (for 16mm inserts) is only 137 pesos, thats around $40 


Pablo


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## SafetyBob (Jul 1, 2008)

Brian, the Sandvik bar and inserts that I have work great although I haven't got the exact hang of it yet (give me time though!!)

I know with all you have laid out for the new lathe has left you with empty pockets or close to it, but this setup is what my 30+ year machinist recommended.

It is a shame that all this quality tooling costs so much, especially for us "advanced" hobby guys. However, since you are stepping up a little bit beyond that I guess all you can do is hope on shows up on ebay.

Enco and Rutland are having 4th of July specials though.........

Bob E.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 2, 2008)

PEU said:


> reading that enco page I have one doubt, why would one choose the partial profile insert over the full profile one?



The value in the partial profile is that it allows you to cut a lot of different threads. So if you are doing professional threads you want to use the full profile. If you do a lot of one size thread, then you want full profile. Buying a full set of inserts for the full range of TPI will set you back hundreds of bucks, and some will never, ever be used.

But if you are not rich, it's a good idea to have some partial profile bits available for when you have to cut a thread that you don't often cut. 

The good news is that when you design your lights you can choose the thread to match your available tooling, matching other dimensions as necessary. 

Daniel


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## Mirage_Man (Jul 2, 2008)

gadget_lover said:


> The value in the partial profile is that it allows you to cut a lot of different threads. So if you are doing professional threads you want to use the full profile. If you do a lot of one size thread, then you want full profile. Buying a full set of inserts for the full range of TPI will set you back hundreds of bucks, and some will never, ever be used.
> 
> But if you are not rich, it's a good idea to have some partial profile bits available for when you have to cut a thread that you don't often cut.
> 
> ...



So how do you determine the bore size before you actually cut the threads? I've always used partial profile inserts for everything.


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## PEU (Jul 2, 2008)

Not sure what the machinist book says, but I calculate heights for a thread using the Pythagoras theorem: 

(I think in millimiters)

Say for example your pitch is 20 TPI, that translates to 1.27mm between peaks of the thread. You can think of this distance as the base of an equilateral triangle.

You can calculate the height of the thread by dividing this equilateral triangle by 2, efectively having two identical right triangles.

So Pythagoras said for a right triangle: a^2 + b^2=c^2 and we know c=1.27mm and a=1.27/2 so its just a matter of doing the math: b=sqr(c^2-a^2) b being the height of your thread 

Then on top of that you add some tolerances and you are good to go.

I did a small spreadsheet with the common pitch values for metric and imperial threads and their respective heights, its a great help since the parametric thread calculator of my CNC control asks for minimum/maximum diameter for the thread to be calculated (G76 cycle)

Its my method :green: not sure if its the proper method, but so far it worked for the threads I tested/used (im still a newbie regarding CNC lathes)


Pablo


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## gadget_lover (Jul 2, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> So how do you determine the bore size before you actually cut the threads? I've always used partial profile inserts for everything.



I use the technique on lower part of my web page. ( http://www.tanj.com/cgi-bin/tpi.cgi ) I turn the bore for the inside threads to the minor diameter, then single point to the depth using a 90 degree infeed. I do almost exclusively small threads (20 tpi and finer) so the straight infeed is not a problem.


Daniel


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## PEU (Jul 2, 2008)

Went to a tooling store today looking for an external threading toolholder&insert and ended purchasing a parting tool (Korloy/sp200 insert 2mm) 

They promised to deliver to my office the external one tomorrow.

Along with the photo is my internal threading toolholder


Pablo


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## VanIsleDSM (Jul 3, 2008)

So I got my external and internal tool bits for threading today, they cost me $1 each, and a little over an hour of time. Not so fancy but they'll do for me with aluminum, which is all I've really played with so far.

No use on them yet, gonna go give them a try right now I think. I'll post back about how they work.


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## PEU (Jul 3, 2008)

they will work perfect! no doubts about it. Did you used an angle gage to check them?







Pablo


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## VanIsleDSM (Jul 8, 2008)

They did work perfectly! Although I screwed up somewhere on figuring out my diameters.. I ended up just taking passes until the pieces threaded together.

I don't have one of those gauges, I just used a protractor to set the angles 30 degrees off of the parallel of the tool bit, so squaring the tool post to the work would give me the perfect 60 degree angle.

If you notice I also made the internal threading tool to work with the spindle in reverse, this allows me to run the internal threading bit from left to right, out of holes, and therefore I'll never bottom it out or break it in a blind hole. Also I'll be applying force the same way as usual turning operations, so steady rests or follower rests can still do their job. Since this was my first time threading, I don't have any experience to go on, but I honestly don't understand how anyone could internally thread a blind hole anywhere close to the end of it by standard methods. The only downside I found to threading from left to right internally was that you have to be bang on when you engage the half nuts, if you're off then you have no time to release them and correct.


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## Mirage_Man (Jul 8, 2008)

VanIsleDSM said:


> They did work perfectly! Although I screwed up somewhere on figuring out my diameters.. I ended up just taking passes until the pieces threaded together.
> 
> I don't have one of those gauges, I just used a protractor to set the angles 30 degrees off of the parallel of the tool bit, so squaring the tool post to the work would give me the perfect 60 degree angle.
> 
> If you notice I also made the internal threading tool to work with the spindle in reverse, this allows me to run the internal threading bit from left to right, out of holes, and therefore I'll never bottom it out or break it in a blind hole. Also I'll be applying force the same way as usual turning operations, so steady rests or follower rests can still do their job. Since this was my first time threading, I don't have any experience to go on, but I honestly don't understand how anyone could internally thread a blind hole anywhere close to the end of it by standard methods. The only downside I found to threading from left to right internally was that you have to be bang on when you engage the half nuts, if you're off then you have no time to release them and correct.



Alright! Way to go. Got any pictures?

Threading into a blind hole toward the chuck is definitely a tricky operation but can be done with practice. However as the creation of this thread shows it's not without issues. Like breaking inserts occasionally if you're not quick enough .


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## Anglepoise (Jul 8, 2008)

VanIsleDSM said:


> The only downside I found to threading from left to right internally was that you have to be bang on when you engage the half nuts, if you're off then you have no time to release them and correct.



Anything that makes threading less stressful is great in my book.

If you are able to choose the threads for a specific job, remember any multiple of the lead screw will allow the half nuts to be closed at any position.

So in my case with a lead screw of 8 TPI, I select 24 and 32 TPI where I can and one more thing not to have to worry about.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 10, 2008)

VanIsleDSM said:


> I honestly don't understand how anyone could internally thread a blind hole anywhere close to the end of it by standard methods.



There are several tricks that help. For instance;

I have a threading tool that has it's tip ground down so much that there is only enough left to cut the full thread. It will go almost to the end of a blind hole.

You should turn a recess (a groove) at the end of the threads, as little as just a one or two threads worth. This is your over-run area. Make the groove as deep as your threads will be. When you approach the end of the thread, turn off power and turn the chuck by hand. You can feel when the bit passes the end of the thread and into the run-over groove.

This has worked for me when doing some fine (32 tpi) threads on a bezel for a small light.

Dan


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## Mirage_Man (Jul 10, 2008)

gadget_lover said:


> When you approach the end of the thread, turn off power and turn the chuck by hand.



Dan,

Thanks so much for this. I've read this before but for some reason it didn't make the impact it did tonight. The reason I kept snapping inserts was because I was trying to get as close as I could to the bottom or shoulder with the machine running then roll out and disengage the half nuts at that critical moment. Most of the time I could do it but then there were those times for whatever reason I didn't and...snap! There went another insert.

I tried this method tonight and it worked great! Thanks so much for sharing :thumbsup:.


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## gadget_lover (Jul 10, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> Dan,
> 
> Thanks so much for sharing :thumbsup:.



Funny, I tend to think I may "share" too much.  

Really, there have been a lot of really good folks on this board who are willing to spread their knowledge to anyone who cares to learn. That's where I learned a lot of what I 'know'. That and copious reading.


Daniel


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## wquiles (Jul 10, 2008)

gadget_lover said:


> When you approach the end of the thread, turn off power and turn the chuck by hand. You can feel when the bit passes the end of the thread and into the run-over groove.



Yep, exactly what I do as well. Either you and/or Mac taught me that one


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## Mirage_Man (Jul 12, 2008)

Well it turns out that on ti the hand turning method breaks inserts too.  I was cutting some threads last night and noticed that the tip of the insert I was using didn't look right. It had chipped. I suspect it was dues to the pressure on the insert when I pulled out of the thread. The thing is that I did not have a relief area for the insert to end up in. I was just stopping in the material and I think it chipped when backed out with the cross slide. Maybe these inserts are more brittle than others?


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## Anglepoise (Jul 12, 2008)

Yes.....if you are threading by hand and withdrawing at exactly the same point each time, you definitely will but strain on the insert it was not designed to handle. I have threaded Ti successfully by hand turning the chuck, but always into a small groove.
I am still not entirely convinced that 'inserts' are the way to go with prototype work that we all do. Production CNC work yes, but HSS takes such a sharp edge and with aluminum...keeps it and never chips.

I love this little internal threading tool. HSS and so easy to touch up as you only sharpen the top face


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## Mirage_Man (Jul 12, 2008)

Anglepoise said:


> I love this little internal threading tool. HSS and so easy to touch up as you only sharpen the top face



I remember you posting that tool before. I tried to get one but the distributor never called me back and I just gave up. I have seen versions identical to that except cutting edge is carbide.


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## wquiles (Jul 12, 2008)

Anglepoise said:


> I love this little internal threading tool. HSS and so easy to touch up as you only sharpen the top face



David,

What tool is that one, and how is it held while in use? Do I see in the unfocused area some sort of sleeve?


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## Anglepoise (Jul 12, 2008)

This tool was made by a European company called Ifanger and was purchased in North America, but a few years ago.

The shank is round, and slides into a split holder that is square.

EDIT: Just done a google search and the North American distributor is
*Alouette Tool Co., Ltd.
1387 Fairport Road
Suite #780
Fairport, NY 14450
Phone: 585-388-1240
Fax: 585-388-1286*


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## gadget_lover (Jul 12, 2008)

Mirage_Man said:


> Well it turns out that on ti the hand turning method breaks inserts too.  I was cutting some threads last night and noticed that the tip of the insert I was using didn't look right. It had chipped. I suspect it was dues to the pressure on the insert when I pulled out of the thread. The thing is that I did not have a relief area for the insert to end up in. I was just stopping in the material and I think it chipped when backed out with the cross slide. Maybe these inserts are more brittle than others?



If you did not have a relief area, it's more likely that you ran into an uncut section where it had to cut the full height of the thread in one pass. Do that once or twice and the insert is likely to break. That's a lot of force for a little nubbin of metal.

Daniel


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## wquiles (Jul 12, 2008)

Anglepoise said:


> This tool was made by a European company called Ifanger and was purchased in North America, but a few years ago.
> 
> The shank is round, and slides into a split holder that is square.



David,

When you cut threads with this, you would end up with a sharp pointy thread tip (since this is not a full profile cutter). What do you do? Leave as is, or do your cut/trim afterwards?

Will


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## Anglepoise (Jul 16, 2008)

wquiles said:


> David,
> 
> When you cut threads with this, you would end up with a sharp pointy thread tip (since this is not a full profile cutter). What do you do? Leave as is, or do your cut/trim afterwards?
> 
> Will



I will have to think a little on this, as I am not certain what I do other than I have been doing it for a while.

On an internal thread, I bore the 'Minor Diameter' a few thou bigger so that when the job is done, my 'crests' are flat.

Same thing on external threading, but this time the 'Major Diameter' is turned a few thou smaller diameter. 

Works for me , although things can get tricky when you are working on a thread that has to fit perfectly to another part
that you did not make, and have no access to the part.

This is the one area of lathe work I dislike intensely.


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## cmacclel (Jul 16, 2008)

wquiles said:


> David,
> 
> When you cut threads with this, you would end up with a sharp pointy thread tip (since this is not a full profile cutter). What do you do? Leave as is, or do your cut/trim afterwards?
> 
> Will


 

I do not use a full profile cutter. After the the last pass I use a smooth file to smooth out the tops of the threads followed by Scotchbright.

Mac


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## will (Jul 16, 2008)

I cut the interior diameter a little larger, the exterior diameter a little smaller, then a few passes with a scotch brite pad.


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## Mirage_Man (Jul 16, 2008)

Anglepoise said:


> This tool was made by a European company called Ifanger and was purchased in North America, but a few years ago.
> 
> The shank is round, and slides into a split holder that is square.
> 
> ...



Good luck getting them to call you back :ironic:.


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## Greg G (Jul 17, 2008)

PhotonFanatic said:


> Brian,
> 
> If getting close to an interior shoulder is of paramount importance, then you need to consider cutting the threads by outfeeding the tool holder and insert, while the spindle is rotating clockwise. To do that, you will need to use left hand tools and left hand inserts.


 
I also cut away from the shoulder, but instead of left hand cutters, when cutting an I.D. thread I mount my normal cutter upside down, touching the far side of the workpiece rather than the near side, spin the machine backwards (clockwise), and cut. That's how I do my rifle barrels and receivers as well. I've never been good at cutting *to* a shoulder, and I like to keep the cutting speed up, don't like hand turning/scraping right at the end. 

As of right now I'm in the market for a new threading tool/bar too. I snapped off my solid carbide threading tool tonight. I was almost done too.  

I'm switching to one with inserts. I haven't done much threading in the past, so haven't sunk much money into tooling, but these durn flashlights are making me spend it. :devil:


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## TexLite (Nov 4, 2008)

Anglepoise said:


> I love this little internal threading tool. HSS and so easy to touch up as you only sharpen the top face


 
If anyone is still looking for a threading tool like this,Criterion makes a version,Style Z Threading Tool.Available in HSS or Carbide.

They're available from my local distributor,but you should be able to get them from a Criterion retailer.

HSS available here:JTS Machinery link#1,and JTS Machinery link#2 (direct links to correct pages)
They indicate Carbide is available in the comments,"inquire".

Carbide also available here:Production Tool Supply,though you'll have to search "carbide cutting tools" then sort by brand "criterion".

-Michael


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