# Sunwayman T60CS (3xXM-L, 3x18650) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES, VIDEO and more!



## selfbuilt (Jul 15, 2012)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual.*











The T60CS is a new high-output, 3xXM-L, 3x18650 flashlight from Sunwayman. Let's see how it compares to other recent lights in this class that I've reviewed recently …. 

*Manufacturer's Specifications for the T60CS:*

LED: Three Cree XM-L U2 LEDs 
Soft-contact Side Switch:
One Turbo mode, Three modes constant output and hidden Strobe, SOS (below are output and runtime details by using 3*18650 2600mAh batteries):
Turbo Mode: 2100 Lumens (for safety’s sake, after 5 minutes’ turbo mode, the light will go to High mode automatically to avoid over-heat)
Three constant output modes: 1680Lumens (2hrs) – 360Lumens (9hrs) - 20Lumens (60hrs)
Strobe: 2100 Lumens, SOS mode
Constant current circuit, constant output
Effective range of 372.5 meters
Uses three 18650 or six CR123A (16340) batteries
Working voltage: 12.6-25.2
Low-voltage indicator lamp
Three-hole high quality metal smooth reflector maintains great throw distance and spread with an ideal beam pattern
Dimensions: 146mm (length) x 60mm (head diameter) x 44mm (tail diameter)
Weight: 341g (battery excluded)
Aerospace-grade aluminum alloy, stainless steel retaining ring on the head
Military Specification Type III- hard anodized body
Waterproof, in accordance with IPX-8 standard
Ultra-clear tempered glass lens resists scratches and impacts
Accessories: holster, O-ring
MSRP: ~$205






Final shipping packaging wasn't available when my sample was sent out. Included with mine was a holster, wrist lanyard and extra o-rings (not shown in the pic above). A copy of the manual was supplied electronically, but I am sure that will be included in the shipping version. 













From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Sunwayman T60CS, Nitecore TM11, Thrunite TN30, Xtar S1, Olight SR92, Sunwayman M60C. 

All dimensions are directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Sunwayman T60CS:* Weight: 338.9g (est 477g with 3x18650), Length: 145.0mm, Width (bezel): 60.0mm

*Thrunite TN30*: Weight: 468.2g (est 620g with 3x18650), Length: 179mm, Width (bezel): 64.3mm, Width (tailcap): 49.0mm 
*Xtar S1 Production*: Weight: 876.0g (est. 1028g with 3x18650 protected), Length: 240mm, Width (bezel): 83.4mm
*Nitecore TM11*: Weight: 342.6g (476g with 8xCR123A), Length 135.3mm, Width (bezel): 59.5mm 
*Foursevens S18*: Weight: 700g (800g with 6xCR123A), Length: 233mm, Width (bezel) 63.0mm, (tailcap) 25.6mm
*Olight SR51*: Weight: 405g, Length: 190mm, Width (bezel) 62.0mm

The T60CS is fairly compact for this class of light – a bit longer than the TM11, it is still shorter than all the other multiple-emitter lights in my collection.














Anodizing is the traditional dark gray natural finish of Sunwayman lights – very high quality, with no chips or damage on my sample. Labels were sharp and bright white against the dark background. No real knurling as such, but there are fine ridges along the handle, as well as number of indentations over the body and head. Overall, I would describe the grip as fairly good. 

Screw threads are anodized for head lock-out. :thumbsup: Threads are square cut, and seem of good quality. Could use a little lube, though (mine came very dry).

Light has a scalloped aluminum bezel. Scroll down for more details on the reflector. 

Rather than a control ring, the T60CS is controlled by an electronic switch in the head (under a rubber button cover). Switch feel is good for this type of switch, with a definite "click" upon activation. Scroll down for a discussion of the UI.














The T60Cs uses a metal battery carrier that holds 3x 18650 cells or 6x CR123A. The positive contact plate is slightly raised, so all types of 18650 cells should work fine (i.e., true flat-tops, wide and small button-tops). Longer cells may be a bit tight, but my protected 3100mAh cells all fit. The carrier can be inserted either orientation into the handle. 










The T60CS can use the optional charging cradle-dock sold by Sunwayman. The way this works is that the center and outer metal areas of the base are connected to the positive and negative terminals of the carrier (note center spring and metal contact disc inside the light). You can thus charge your batteries right inside the light, if you get this charging stand.

To help protect against accidental shorting of the batteries, the center positive terminal is recessed by over half a centimeter. However, as the bare metal is exposed, it is still possible to short the batteries.  I strongly recommend Sunwayman supply some sort of non-conductive cover for the center contact when the light is not being charged (or the user fashion something themselves). As it stands right now, you could potentially short the batteries if you carried the light in a pocket with metal keys, etc. :candle:

I understand there is some sort of fuse in the battery carrier to help prevent a catastrophic outcome from accidental shorting, but I don't recommend you rely on that. Also, any such fuse is not user-replaceable, so you would need to get a whole replacement carrier if were tripped accidentally.

The light can tailstand, but is a bit wobbly.










The T60CS uses an over-lapping well design for the 3 XM-L emitters, similar to a number of other lights. In keeping with the overall length, I find the emitter wells are slightly deeper on the T60CS than the Nitecore TM11, but not as deep (or overlapped) as the Thrunite TN30.

T60CS on the left, TN30 on the right:









T60CS on the left, TM11 on the right:









Scroll down for beam pic comparisons. 

*User Interface*

With the head fully-connected against the handle/battery carrier, turn the light off/on by the electronic clicky switch (i.e., press and release). 

First time you activate the light, it comes on in Turbo mode. Change output modes by pressing and holding the switch. The light will cycle between constant output modes in the following order: Turbo > Hi > Med > Lo, in repeating order. Let go off the switch to select the mode you want.

Light has mode memory, and will retain the last constant output used when turning off and on.

There are a "hidden" strobe and SOS mode, activated and double-clicking the switch rapidly. On first double-click you get strobe, on second double-click you get SOS. Single click to turn off. Light returns to the memorized constant output when clicked back on. 

As this is an electronic switch, a standby current is required (see below for measurements). To reduce the risk of accidental activation, Sunwayman provides a switch lock-out mode. After waiting a minimum of 7 secs with the light off, do a quick click followed immediately by a press-hold. After 1 sec, the light will shut off and cannot be re-activated until the lockout is deactivated. To restore full functioning, double-click the switch followed by a press-hold. Alternatively, you can twist the head to physically lock out the light (i.e., no current).

Note that you have to be really quick on the press-hold to engage the lock-out mode (basically, you have to do the click, press-hold as fast as you possibly can). If you hesitate for even a fraction of a second between the two, you will instead just enter regular mode-changing. 

There is a secondary red LED just below the switch, which will warn you when the batteries are running low (i.e. the red light will flash). This is particularly helpful on the Lo/Med modes, where you have relatively little warning (in terms of dimming light output - see runtimes later in this review). 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my new video overview:



As always, videos were recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM on any level – I believe the light is current-controlled. 










I did detect some high-frequency noise on Turbo and Hi (around the 8.7 kHz range), but was unable to detect it on Med/Lo (although it may still be there at an undetectable level in my setup). In any case, this is not detectable by eye, and it not a concern.

I also detected some audible hum on the Hi mode, when switching between levels. This is generally believed to be due to inductor whine, and can be highly variable between samples of a given model. However, turning the light off and back on in Hi mode restored silent operation, so I am not clear as to the source of the hum during mode switching.






Strobe is a standard "tactical" high frequency strobe, measured at 12 Hz. 

*Standby Drain*

Due to the electronic switch, the T60CS will always be drawing a small current when the body/carrier is connected to the head.

I measured this regular standby current as 2.25mA initially, which is rather high. However, after about 5 secs or so, the current dropped down to 20uA on my sample. :thinking: Hopefully it stays at that level - at a sustained 2.25mA, it would drain 18650s within weeks. At the seemingly final standby current of 20uA though, you would have decades before the cells would be drained, in theory (i.e., for batteries in series, total current capacity is the same as an individual cell – so 2600mAh cells would provide just under 15 years before the cells were fully drained). 

As mentioned previously, Sunwayman also provides a lock-out mode that is activated by a quick click followed by a sustained press. Normally, standby currents are lower in lockout modes. Sunwayman reports the standby drain is below 50uA in this mode – but seeing as how I measured the regular mode at 20uA after a few seconds, I don't know if it drops any further. Either way, it is negligible for the cells, and not a concern.

But as with all lights with electronic switches, I recommend you lock the head out when not in use (i.e. a quarter turn loosening of the head).

*Beamshots:*






Each emitter was well-centered in its own reflector well – but the wells overlap with each other to some degree. Expect some peripheral artifacts in the spill, but these shouldn't be too bad given the relatively shallow reflectors.

And now, what you have all been waiting for.  All lights are on their respective max rechargeable battery sources (i.e., 18650s), about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































Output level on Turbo is quite high (scroll down for my lumen estimates). Although there is some "daisy flower" effect in the spillbeam (due to the overlapping well design), this isn't very severe – it is less than most lights in this class.

To show the spill a little better, here are some side shots on my famed "integrating carpet". 














The T60CS is not quite as wide in spill as the original Nitecore TM11 - but it is still pretty broad. :wave:

For outdoor beamshots, these are done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). Please ignore the red-tint in the lower-right corner these shots (I was wearing a brighter-than-usual red headlamp during this excursion ).






Here are zoomed-in pics of the hotspots:






I know it can be a bit hard to compare, given the slight variation in angling of the lights. But as you can probably tell, the T60CS is not as much of a thrower as the TN30, but it does throw better than the Nitecore TM11.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.






Turbo output is quite high – second only to my Thrunite TN30 among the 3xXM-L class, according to ANSI-FL1 measures at 30 secs. Of course, the runtimes will tell you more about how they really compare (scroll down and see). 

Given the relative similarity to the shallow reflector design of the TM11, throw remains toward the lower end of this group (but is still quite acceptable).

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*









_Note: All my 18650 runtimes are done using AW protected 2200mAh._

The Thrunite TN30 does have a slight advantage in overall output on its max setting, but I will leave it you to decide how significant the differences in the above curves are. Interestingly, the Hi level of the T60CS is about the same as the Turbo of the Nitecore TM11. 

One notable feature – the T60CS is slightly more efficient than the TN30, at all comparable output levels.

Note also that the step-down from Turbo seems to be timer based (i.e., steps down after exactly 5 mins).






Here is a comparison the various lights, on Max, in an estimated lumen output scale:






*Potential Issues*

Due to the overlapping reflector design, there are some artifacts in the periphery of the spillbeam (as with other lights that use a similar design). But I find them relatively minor in this case.

Due to the electronic switch in the head, the light has a stand-by current when waiting to receive a button press. The eventual current is very low (20uA), but I did detect an early 2.25mA drain upon initial connection. Assuming the drain remains at 20uA long-term, this current is negligible. Note there is also a switch lock-out mode (also reported as <50uA, according to Sunwayman). Either way, this would result in several years/decades before the cells would be drained, so it is not a concern. Note that you can completely break this current by loosening the head from the body.

Light uses a battery carrier, and very long or wide cells may be a bit tight. But all cells I tested worked in the carrier, including protected flat-top cells.

Because the T60CS supports the optional Sunwayman charging cradle/dock, there are exposed contacts on the base that are directly connected to the battery carrier's terminals. There is thus a risk of shorting the cells if you bridge the tail contacts with a metal object. While Sunwayman has recessed the center positive contact to reduce this risk, it is still a concern if you were to rest the light on an irregular metal surface (or if it comes into contacts with keys in a pocket, etc.). I recommend Sunwayman (or the end user) fashion a non-conductive "plug" to cover the inner terminal, to reduce this risk. Note that there is a fuse inside the battery carrier to help protect against accidental shorting, but triggering this fuse would require a complete replacement of the carrier. This is a potential long-term reliability issue, as you may not be able to get a replacement carrier in the future.

I don't recommend you run the light for extended periods on Turbo/Hi with primary CR123A cells. After my max CR123A runtime, all six of my Titanium Innovation cells came out of the light with at least partially or fully split body labels. In my experience, that usually indicates a lot of heat build-up. It is possible that some other brands would have tripped their PTC safety circuits by that point.

*Preliminary Observations*

The T60CS is an impressive 3x XM-L high-output light from Sunwayman. While this is starting to become a more crowded space, the Sunwayman offering has excellent performance in a quality build. 

Output/runtime performance was excellent, consistent with good current control circuitry. Stabilization was quite good as well, with perfectly flat regulation on Med/Lo, and a reasonable period of flat regulation on Hi/Turbo. Note there is a secondary red LED to warn you when the batteries are nearly exhausted. Of note, the T60CS supports both 3x18650 and 6xCR123A. :thumbsup:

In terms of the interface, the switch worked well in my testing. The sustained standby drain seems to be negligible, and this can be cut completely by twisting the head to break contact. There is also a lock-out mode, to prevent accidental switch activation when fully connected.

The beam is reasonable for the type and class of light, with plenty of throw and spill. There is always something of a trade-off here in 3x emitter lights – while deep overlapping reflector wells can give more throw, the shallower wells used here help reduce spillbeam artifacts. A reasonable trade-off, in my personal view – I personally prefer the more even beam of these shallower refelctors. 

The T60CS is certainly a strong contender in the high-output arena, with the second-highest overall output of all the 3x XM-L lights I've tested. My only real concern comes from the exposed contacts on the tail. While it is nice that there is an optional charging cradle/dock, there is a potential risk of shorting your batteries with this setup (or at minimum, tiggering the carrier fuse and permanently destroying it). I strongly encourage Sunwayman (or the end user) to fashion a non-conducting "plug" for the inner center contact, to minimize this risk during regular handling and use. 

_UPDATE July 16, 2012: Sunwayman informs me they are now working on just such a plug for the tail.
_
----

T60CS provided by Sunwayman for review.


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## Phil Ament (Jul 15, 2012)

Hi there selfbuilt


Another great review from you however I think that I may have spotted a slight error. In your Throw/Output Summary chart it states the following: "2 x AW Protected 18650's". Shouldn't that be "3 x AW Protected 18650's".


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## selfbuilt (Jul 15, 2012)

Phil Ament said:


> Another great review from you however I think that I may have spotted a slight error. In your Throw/Output Summary chart it states the following: "2 x AW Protected 18650's". Shouldn't that be "3 x AW Protected 18650's".


Yeah, that's a hold-over from when most of the high-output lights were 2x18650. I'll update it to say "2x or 3x". :wave:


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## rufus001 (Jul 15, 2012)

I love this light. Took it out tonight with freshly charged batteries and it is VERY bright. Unbeatable for it's size. With apologies to my previous "little" champ the TM11.


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## Bwolcott (Jul 15, 2012)

its looking like this will be my first light that breaks the 2000 lumen mark, thanks for the excellent review


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## kj2 (Jul 15, 2012)

Thanks


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## vinhnguyen54 (Jul 15, 2012)

"Due to the electronic control ring in the head, the light has a stand-by current when waiting to receive a button press"

There are no control ring. That's a typo right?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 15, 2012)

vinhnguyen54 said:


> That's a typo right?


It was indeed - fixed.


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## raltm (Jul 16, 2012)

I can not turn on light, and immediately switch modes if I am not satisfied with the current mode - turns on lock-out mode. right?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 16, 2012)

raltm said:


> I can not turn on light, and immediately switch modes if I am not satisfied with the current mode - turns on lock-out mode. right?


Actually, you can. You have to be realy quick on the press-hold to engage the lock-out mode (basically, you have to do the click, press-hold as fast as you possibly can). If you hesitate for even a fraction of a second between the two, you will instead just enter mode-changing (as you want).

This is presumably also why there is the 7-sec delay when off before lock-out can be activated (i.e. in case you just turned the light off, and decide you want it back on at another level). In that case, even the shortest delay between click and press will just change modes, not engage the lock-out.


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## raltm (Jul 16, 2012)

thanx!


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## selfbuilt (Jul 16, 2012)

Just update - Sunwayman has gotten back to me on the review, and tells me they are working on a plug for tail to remove the risk of accidental shorting. :wave:


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## tjhabak (Jul 19, 2012)

Just got my T60CS today. Can't wait til tonight to check it out in the dark! One curious thing though...The driver seems to have only 3 modes of constant output instead of 4. Has anyone else experienced this?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 19, 2012)

tjhabak said:


> Just got my T60CS today. Can't wait til tonight to check it out in the dark! One curious thing though...The driver seems to have only 3 modes of constant output instead of 4. Has anyone else experienced this?


There is very little differentiation between Turbo and Hi (i.e. less than ~15% drop from Turbo). Is it possible you didn't notice the drop?


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## AmperSand (Jul 21, 2012)

Lower battery voltage causes it to only be able to access hi,med and low.
Try charging it completely (if using 18650's) and see how it goes. Also use good quality 18650's because if the internal resistance is too high, or the cells can't handle the current draw you may experience the same.


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## candle lamp (Jul 21, 2012)

Another excellent review as always. Thanks a lot. Selfbuilt! :thumbsup:
Looks very well made multi-emitters light.

What's the capacity of the 3x18650 cells used in your runtime test?
According to the MFG. spec., the working voltage is ~25.2v. So 6xRCR123A's may be used in theory. But I think they don't recommend to use them due to high discharge ratio. What do you think of it?


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## rufus001 (Jul 21, 2012)

tjhabak said:


> Just got my T60CS today. Can't wait til tonight to check it out in the dark! One curious thing though...The driver seems to have only 3 modes of constant output instead of 4. Has anyone else experienced this?


Same happened to me. But once I put in freshly charged batteries I could notice the difference.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 21, 2012)

candle lamp said:


> What's the capacity of the 3x18650 cells used in your runtime test?
> According to the MFG. spec., the working voltage is ~25.2v. So 6xRCR123A's may be used in theory. But I think they don't recommend to use them due to high discharge ratio. What do you think of it?


All my 18650 runtimes are done using AW protected 2200mAh, to insure comparability to earlier review and ensure maximum compatibility with all flashlights. I usually have it listed in the figure titles, but I see I didn't this time - just added it as a note.

I notice the voltage range as well, so 6xRCR should work (i.e., right at the max range). However the specs only officially support 18650 and CR123A, so I limited my runtime testing. I don't like testing non-supported batteries ... it may give casual reader the impression those cells are supported when they aren't, just because they see a graph.


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## tjhabak (Jul 21, 2012)

rufus001 said:


> Same happened to me. But once I put in freshly charged batteries I could notice the difference.



I tried fully charging my batteries and the problem is now resolved! The thing that made me think that wasn't the problem was that the low voltage light didn't come on. Anyways, I really like this little light (with huge output!). The grip is really comfortable. The form factor just feels right. The beam is a good mix of flood and throw, and its just plain handy.


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## HighlanderNorth (Jul 22, 2012)

Does it have a good combination of flood and throw? In other words, does it have a medium size hot spot and a fairly wide spill beam, and how does it compare in beam profile to the "King of flood", the TM-30? Because in your chart the TM-30 seems to have a significantly higher lux reading, and maybe thats just a product of the TM-30's higher lumen measurement.......But if that is true and the TM-30 has a much higher lux reading, then the T60CS might even be more floody than the TM-30. I would prefer a nice happy medium between flood and throw, not too much of either.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 22, 2012)

HighlanderNorth said:


> Does it have a good combination of flood and throw? In other words, does it have a medium size hot spot and a fairly wide spill beam, and how does it compare in beam profile to the "King of flood", the TM-30? Because in your chart the TM-30 seems to have a significantly higher lux reading, and maybe thats just a product of the TM-30's higher lumen measurement.......But if that is true and the TM-30 has a much higher lux reading, then the T60CS might even be more floody than the TM-30. I would prefer a nice happy medium between flood and throw, not too much of either.


The T60CS is very similar to the TM11 in beam pattern. The TN30 has a noticeably narrower overall spillbeam (but the spill is brighter than the other two lights). It is also slightly more "throwy" than the other two, because of the reflector shape (but at the cost of more spill artifacts)

I hope to get to the outdoor shots this week, which should show it better. At the end of the day, all the lights are extremely bright.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 26, 2012)

Just an update. Going through my notes, I see that I forgot to mention a potential concern (added to the review):

I don't recommend you run the light for extended periods on Turbo/Hi with primary CR123A cells. After my max CR123A runtime, all six of my Titanium Innovation cells came out of the light with body labels at least partially or fully split open. In my experience, that usually indicates a lot of heat build-up during the run. 

In my comparison testing of various battery brands, I've noticed that the point at which Titanium Innovation cells show this kind of stress is usually around the time that most American-made cells will trip their PTC safety circuits. See this thread for a discussion of that issue.

Again, this is something I've seen a lot of on 4xCR123A lights (and some heavily-driven 2xCR123A), so it is not a surprise to see it here. I am sure you will be fine for regular usage, but I don't recommend you do a full runtime on Turbo/Hi on primaries.

P.S.: I hope to head out soon for the outdoor beamshots, just waiting for the right climactic conditions, and schedule permitting.


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## carl (Jul 26, 2012)

"(i.e., for batteries in series, total current capacity is the same as an individual cell – so 2600mAh cells would provide just under 15 years before the cells were fully drained)."

Thanks for the review! So I just learned something new - at 20 microAmps of parasitic drain, one 18650 cell would get depleted at the same time as three 18650 cells! This puts the parasitic drain of the T60CS at the same very low level as Zebralights (between 12 - 13 years). Amazing.


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## carl (Jul 26, 2012)

Sunwayman says low is 20 lumens but your chart says low is 75-ish. Is Sunwayman not meeting their goal of 20 lumens?


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## carl (Jul 26, 2012)

In another thread regarding the recharger port or battery carrier, IMSabbel said: 
"No safety issue, as it is pretty recessed, and its not a light you can carry in a pocket with keys or something. What is annoying is that mine corroded while it was in water, especially the tiny screws. Those are now stuck, i already stripped the hex by trying to remove them. Now the battery carrier has a piece of duct tape at the bottom to de-power the charging connector."

Do you know if Sunwayman is fixing this issue?


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## HighlanderNorth (Jul 27, 2012)

carl said:


> Sunwayman says low is 20 lumens but your chart says low is 75-ish. Is Sunwayman not meeting their goal of 20 lumens?




I second that question, as I would actually prefer a 40-80 lumen setting over a 20L setting in a big, floody light, because the beam is so wide, 20 lumens would probably seem too low for basic stuff like walking around in the forest behind my house because the wide beam would dilute the 20 lumens, but a wide 75 lumen beam should be more than adequate. That was one of the factors that was steering me towards the TN-30, because its low2 setting is around 38L. This may be a clue as to the real brightness measurement on low, its run time at 20L is listed at 60 hours, whereas the TN-30's low2 runtime of 38L(almost double) is 75 hours, even though they both use the same batteries, LED's etc. That discrepancy could exist because of how SWM is running the circuitry, or the Low is actually significantly higher than 20L.


I re-read my earlier post, and realized that I was confusing the Thrunite TN-30 with Nitecore lights, some of which have the TM designation. But you obviously understood which light I was referencing anyway.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 27, 2012)

carl said:


> at 20 microAmps of parasitic drain, one 18650 cell would get depleted at the same time as three 18650 cells!


My understanding is that in series, total current capacity is the same as the individual cells. In parallel, you would add the cells current capacity. This is the oppposite of voltage (i.e. you add voltages in series, but not parallel). But note that the standby current drain is likely to be different in these two scenarios. On multi-power lights, standby drain can vary depending on the number of cells (and their differing voltages). 



carl said:


> Sunwayman says low is 20 lumens but your chart says low is 75-ish. Is Sunwayman not meeting their goal of 20 lumens?


Hard to say from one sample - but there is no way my TC60S is anywhere near that low. As a general rule, manufacturers have more trouble keeping consistency at the lowest level. The circuit tuning is more complicated. I've seen a few lights fall over the otherway, and wind up in a moonlight mode instead of the reported low lumen mode. It is likely just a question of sample variation, but I have no way of knowing for sure.



carl said:


> In another thread regarding the recharger port or battery carrier, ... Do you know if Sunwayman is fixing this issue?


They tell me they are working on a plug for the inner contact port. In the meantime, I have cut out a round disc of electrical tape and put it over the recessed contact.


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## veedo (Jul 27, 2012)

hey selfbuilt, i am at a toss up between this and the the tn30. i already have the tn31. what light would you say has the upper edge as far as fit and finish or build quality, the t60cs or the tn30? thanks.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 27, 2012)

veedo said:


> hey selfbuilt, i am at a toss up between this and the the tn30. i already have the tn31. what light would you say has the upper edge as far as fit and finish or build quality, the t60cs or the tn30? thanks.


Hmm, hard to say. Both seem to have quality construction. But I would probably have to give the nod to the T60CS for overall styling and finish appearance.


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## jh333233 (Jul 27, 2012)

Refer to:
It is unnecessary to replace the carrier when the fuse is burnt.
It might void warranty tho.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Tutorial-Re-enabling-blown-fuse-of-SWM-lights
Besides, you can shield the positive terminal on one side of the carrier to prevent it from shorting at the tail, just remember which side did you insulate.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 27, 2012)

jh333233 said:


> Refer to:
> It is unnecessary to replace the carrier when the fuse is burnt.
> It might void warranty tho.
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Tutorial-Re-enabling-blown-fuse-of-SWM-lights
> Besides, you can shield the positive terminal on one side of the carrier to prevent it from shorting at the tail, just remember which side did you insulate.


Thanks for sharing. A useful stop-gap for those waiting for a replacement carrier after blowing a fuse.

Of course, far better to try to prevent that from happening in the first place. Since I don't have a charging dock anyway, I've taped over my positive contact on the tail with electrical tape. Hopefully SWM comes out with a prettier solution.

And of course, this sort of mod to the carrier is by-passing the fuse, so you are at risk of shorting out the cells (if the tail contacts are still exposed). Better safe than sorry when it comes to a risk of shorting batteries, in my view (i.e., I don't like relying on fuses or protection circuits). A proper physical lock-out is necessary here.


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## indenial (Jul 28, 2012)

Both your and Tim's reviews indicate a concern about the exposed inner contact port. Is SWM serious about producing a rubber plug to resolve this potential problem?


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## jh333233 (Jul 29, 2012)

indenial said:


> Both your and Tim's reviews indicate a concern about the exposed inner contact port. Is SWM serious about producing a rubber plug to resolve this potential problem?



Seems they are working on it


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## jh333233 (Jul 30, 2012)

OP:
Any comment on low voltage indicator?
Thanks


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## jh333233 (Jul 30, 2012)

I wonder how long would it take to drain all batteries @ low:thinking:
60hrs was based on calculation (which wasnt accurate, for med it was 6.5hrs instead of rated spec 9hrs)


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## selfbuilt (Jul 30, 2012)

jh333233 said:


> OP:Any comment on low voltage indicator?


Only that it worked. I noticed it on as the 18650 runs (as they were nearing the end), but didn't notice at what point it first came on.



jh333233 said:


> I wonder how long would it take to drain all batteries @ low:thinking:
> 60hrs was based on calculation (which wasnt accurate, for med it was 6.5hrs instead of rated spec 9hrs)


Keep in mind my runtimes are on 2200mAh, and I count until time to 50%. The ANSI FL-1 standard is time to 10% (from the output level at 30 secs), and SWM specs are based on 2600mAh. Extrapolating out, I would expect at least 8hr 20mins on Med on my sample (under those conditions), which isn't so far off.


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## DanM (Jul 30, 2012)

Better solution for the positive contact on the SWM tail. At your local hardware store should be some little plastic bumpers. Mine are called surface gard vinyl bumpers they are made by shepherd hardware products. They are 3/8" and or 10 mm round clear bumpers.
I paid around $2.00 for a pack of 16, They are a little sticky on one end and fit right into the hole of the SWM's tail, they are also easy to get back out if needed and can be reused as they are a hard plastic material.

If you google shepherd hardware you will see what they look like it is VINYL SELF-ADHESIVE PADS item number 9969


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## moldyoldy (Aug 1, 2012)

fyi: not sure if anyone noticed, but the spare tailcap for the tail switch on some of the Fenix lights fits very snugly into the external terminal hole of my V60. The soft flange on the tailcap covers the insulator as well. As far as I have been able to use the light, the spare tail-cap does not fall out either - too tight. Frankly, to my impression, the tail-cap is a good solution - if you have spare tail-caps as I do. I happen to have a half-dozen or so of these tail-caps that stayed behind in the process of gifting the lights. Oddly enough, the switches wear out but not the tailcaps.


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## kengps (Sep 1, 2012)

Perhaps if they just made the diameter of the plastic insert smaller? I bought the charging cradle with mine, and the charger contact pin is MUCH smaller than the hole on the flashlight. A smaller inside diameter insert would allow charging, but make it almost impossible for keys or coins to reach the contact. I thought your Lux numbers were a bit low at 27,000. I see you have updated the number to over 34,000 lux now. I am sure I picked the right light. The TN30 is just a tad too big at 1.3" longer and .2" larger diameter at the grip. For my hand anyway....I wouldn't want it to be any larger or shorter. I've found that for real world use anything over 250 meters in throw is not needed unless you're using a scope or binoculars. I think Sunwayman hit the sweet spot in throw/flood. This is just an Awesome light.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 2, 2012)

kengps said:


> I see you have updated the number to over 34,000 lux now. ... I've found that for real world use anything over 250 meters in throw is not needed unless you're using a scope or binoculars. I think Sunwayman hit the sweet spot in throw/flood. This is just an Awesome light.


Yeah, I remember when 20K lux @1 was considered a superb thrower (i.e., early XR-E days). 

But the truth is that it still is. I find that level of throw to be perfectly acceptable to see a good distance off. In a suburban environment, there really isn't much use for all the current super-high-output throwers. They are really best suited for those who need to survey wide open areas (e.g., a farm or field)


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## Landshark99 (Sep 2, 2012)

probably a silly question but does the T60Cs get hotter near the switch than the others due to the switch being so high in the head
[h=2][/h]


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## moldyoldy (Sep 2, 2012)

Landshark99 said:


> probably a silly question but does the T60Cs get hotter near the switch than the others due to the switch being so high in the head



No, not that I have noticed. The entire head warms up roughly equally with no bias for/against the switch area. And the answer to an implied question - I do not notice any significant switching changes as the head heats up. As far as I can determine, heat is distributed fairly quickly down the case to the 18650 cells. As always, the act of observing changes the observed.....


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## kengps (Sep 3, 2012)

I've not noticed heat at the switch. The one small complaint I have is it is difficult to find the switch in the dark. With thin gloves you would never identify where it is. Wish there was a little more distinction for the switch recess into the body. Seems to me they could have put it in deeper into a shallow well had the switch been located between reflectors, instead of directly above a reflector. Or maybe a little raised lip around the switch?


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## kengps (Sep 3, 2012)

Something I've found that I haven't seen discussed about the UI.....when light is OFF, press/hold will over-ride Memory saved and start on Turbo again. 

I am in love with this flashlight! Now if only they could build an "Enthusiast" model. A copper board, and up the power from 800 OTF each LED to about 1100+ OTF. Even if it can run a minute that's fine. As it is now you get a 5 minute Turbo setting that is almost un-noticeable from the normal High setting. I really think the future of super-lights is this 3-18650/ 3 Reflector format. The Technology now is sufficient to give 300 meters of throw, which is fine. I think the Toilet Plunger format will be a small segment of the market in the next few years. I just bought a $57 dollar shipped Skyray for modding. I'll mod my own Super-Turbo Triple for now.


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## Pibbxtra19 (Sep 4, 2012)

thanks for the review, looking into getting one!


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## Landshark99 (Sep 7, 2012)

mine arrived yesterday very cool light, so far very happy


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## jh333233 (Sep 8, 2012)

kengps said:


> Something I've found that I haven't seen discussed about the UI.....*when light is OFF, press/hold will over-ride Memory saved and start on Turbo again. *
> 
> I am in love with this flashlight! Now if only they could build an "Enthusiast" model. A copper board, and up the power from 800 OTF each LED to about 1100+ OTF. Even if it can run a minute that's fine. As it is now you get a 5 minute Turbo setting that is almost un-noticeable from the normal High setting. I really think the future of super-lights is this 3-18650/ 3 Reflector format. The Technology now is sufficient to give 300 meters of throw, which is fine. I think the Toilet Plunger format will be a small segment of the market in the next few years. I just bought a $57 dollar shipped Skyray for modding. I'll mod my own Super-Turbo Triple for now.



All Smart-switch-lights have this function.


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## BigTriangle (Sep 8, 2012)

Thanks for the review selfbuilt, I got my T60CS this week, it's my first high quality light since I bought a 4d mag light long ago. Makes the Mag light look like a candle.....or a dinosaur.

I got it out of the box, looked in the front at the reflector and said to my self "bugger, no lens in it, must be a factory reject" gave the front a poke and proceed to leave a finger print on the AR coated lens that was so clear I couldn't see it


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## Landshark99 (Sep 11, 2012)

FYI, I went to the hardware store and bought some small clear round vinyl bumpers, they fit perfectly in the center hole at the base, I do not plan on using the charging stand so this works great for me


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## RedBaron (Sep 12, 2012)

Landshark99 said:


> FYI, I went to the hardware store and bought some small clear round vinyl bumpers, they fit perfectly in the center hole at the base, I do not plan on using the charging stand so this works great for me



^^^^^^^^^^^ This. Put the sticky sides back-to-back to keep it off the contact and it wedges in the hole nicely, but easy to pry out.


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## pageyjim (Sep 24, 2012)

Were outdoor beamshots ever posted for this light?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 24, 2012)

pageyjim said:


> Were outdoor beamshots ever posted for this light?


Still pending. It's on my desk to do, but I have had a lot going on these last few months. It is will be done with the next batch of lights I do.


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## PhatPhil (Oct 2, 2012)

Great looking light with good blend of throw/spill.

If they release a T6 3C NW tint I'll be ready to pull the trigger


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## kolbasz (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks for the review Selfbuilt!

Can we have carpet beamshot that shows us the flood of the lamp, like in the TM11 review?
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/selfbuilt/2011/TM11-CarpetBeam001.jpg

Thanks in advance!

Really like that T60CS, good lamp, good price, except the powerbutton.

I think Sunwayman is struggling with the place and look of the buttons, like at the T40C comparison deleted , it is also an amazing lamp except that button. They need a good button engineer

...as for the look 3X xml light the TM11 is still the most beautiful, but it is very expensive and has been a tons of upgrade during the years


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## Bwolcott (Oct 12, 2012)

kolbasz said:


> Thanks for the review Selfbuilt!
> 
> Can we have carpet beamshot that shows us the flood of the lamp, like in the TM11 review?
> http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/selfbuilt/2011/TM11-CarpetBeam001.jpg
> ...




the tm11 is actually the cheapest of the main 3xml lights if you buy from ebay, but I think Sunwaymans quality far exceeds nitecore in my opinion


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## selfbuilt (Oct 12, 2012)

kolbasz said:


> Can we have carpet beamshot that shows us the flood of the lamp, like in the TM11 review?
> http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff97/selfbuilt/2011/TM11-CarpetBeam001.jpg


Sure. I'll get to it when the new Nitecore TM15 arrives, and do a bunch at that time.


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## jh333233 (Oct 13, 2012)

Bwolcott said:


> the tm11 is actually the cheapest of the main 3xml lights if you buy from ebay, but I think Sunwaymans quality far exceeds nitecore in my opinion



I got mine from local flashlight store for $125 USD-equivalent (Discounted)


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## Th3-nightmare (Oct 13, 2012)

Very nice review


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## kolbasz (Oct 13, 2012)

Bwolcott said:


> the tm11 is actually the cheapest of the main 3xml lights if you buy from ebay, but I think Sunwaymans quality far exceeds nitecore in my opinion



As i know, the T60CS is the cheapest 3xml lamp on the market, on *hkequipment* the TM11 is 200USD, the TN30 is 230USD, the T60cs is 165USD with discount.



jh333233 said:


> I got mine from local flashlight store for $125 USD-equivalent (Discounted)



Congratulatoin! Can i ask where did you buy the lamp for that price?


Wish The T60CS was produced with Neutral led!


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## Bwolcott (Oct 13, 2012)

kolbasz said:


> As i know, the T60CS is the cheapest 3xml lamp on the market, on *hkequipment* the TM11 is 200USD, the TN30 is 230USD, the T60cs is 165USD with discount.
> 
> 
> 
> ...







whats the discount from hk equip?


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## kolbasz (Oct 16, 2012)

40 USD for forum members


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## Mrbullred (Nov 2, 2012)

Anyone know what the average ship time to the united states is from HKE? Or where they ship from? Thanks in advance.


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## kolbasz (Nov 6, 2012)

Hi Selfbuilt, 

could you describe in a few word the colour temperature of the T60CS?
How cool is it?
In my comparison, the T60CS is the most competitive contender among the 3XML lights(price/value), but unfortunately the T60CS isn't exist with Neutral White LEDs at the moment
I far prefer the NW leds in lights, and like to know how far is the T60CS's colour temp from the neutral?

i know, there are some light with NW led, but for me the T60CS sems the best
TM11 - lots of upgrades not a good sign, and exspensive
TN30 - lots of visible rings in the beam bothers me, and exspensive
BTU Shocker - There is no review/experience so far, big, fat(1200g!) and expensive

...sorry for my bad english

Thx!


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## selfbuilt (Nov 6, 2012)

kolbasz said:


> could you describe in a few word the colour temperature of the T60CS?
> How cool is it?
> In my comparison, the T60CS is the most competitive contender among the 3XML lights(price/value), but unfortunately the T60CS isn't exist with Neutral White LEDs at the moment
> I far prefer the NW leds in lights, and like to know how far is the T60CS's colour temp from the neutral?


As you say, the T60CS is not available in neutral white. So, my sample is a cool white - and I have no idea how "representational" it is for the class. But my sample has a relative "creamy yellow" hotspot and corona, for a cool white light. Note that the spill on my sample is somewhat pinkish in tint (so, more cool than typical). However, given that most of the light is in the hotspot and surrounding corona, the overall subjective impression I have is that it is fairly warm (again, for a cool white light). But again, that is just my one sample. :shrug:


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## carl (Nov 7, 2012)

There is the upcoming Zebralight S6330 and Fenix TK75 to consider. The T60CS looks the nicest to me but the low (50-70 lumens) just isn't low enough. Now if the low was more like 10-15 lumens....


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## Mrbullred (Nov 11, 2012)

I received mine from hke. The light is awesome. The only thing I notice is that hum on High mode. I can confirm that a simple click off then back on solves the problem. Has anyone figured out why it does this?


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## indenial (Nov 11, 2012)

Mrbullred said:


> I received mine from hke. The light is awesome. The only thing I notice is that hum on High mode. I can confirm that a simple click off then back on solves the problem. Has anyone figured out why it does this?




I noticed it too, on occasion. Also, the difference between "turbo" and "hi" is so slight it's hard to discern.


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## kolbasz (Nov 15, 2012)

jh333233 said:


> OP:
> Any comment on low voltage indicator?
> Thanks





selfbuilt said:


> Only that it worked. I noticed it on as the 18650 runs (as they were nearing the end), but didn't notice at what point it first came on.




Did anybody measure the Voltage of the batteries when the first low voltage sign came on?


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## selfbuilt (Nov 15, 2012)

Following up on an earlier question: to show the spill a little better, here are some side shots on my famed "integrating carpet". 















The T60CS is not quite as wide in spill as the original TM11 - but it is still pretty broad. :wave:


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## kolbasz (Nov 16, 2012)

Thanks *Selfbuilt* for the long waited carpet shots!
This comparison tells a lot about the flashlights!

I think the T60CS is still the best among these three Flashlight, throws a lot, but floods enough.
...and the price is almost the half of the TM15


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## selfbuilt (Nov 16, 2012)

I finally got around to doing the outdoor beamshots (main review updated). Please ignore the red-tint in the lower-right corner these shots (I was wearing a brighter-than-usual red headlamp during this excursion ).






Here are zoomed-in pics of the hotspots:






As you can probably tell, the T60CS is not as much of a thrower as the TN30, but it does throw better than the Nitecore TM11. :wave:


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## hoanglz (Nov 19, 2012)

veedo said:


> hey selfbuilt, i am at a toss up between this and the the tn30. i already have the tn31. what light would you say has the upper edge as far as fit and finish or build quality, the t60cs or the tn30? thanks.



I think t60cs have better design and finish. 
Sunwayman product look so cool from their official site. You will be a bit disappointing if you hand on.


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## lightliker (Jan 15, 2013)

Just ordered mine at hkequipment, still waiting at the track and trace number to arrive.
it's gonna be some horrible waiting weeks :sigh:
Do you have some pictures or beamshots?



tjhabak said:


> Just got my T60CS today. Can't wait til tonight to check it out in the dark! One curious thing though...The driver seems to have only 3 modes of constant output instead of 4. Has anyone else experienced this?


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## brightnorm (Jan 15, 2013)

carl said:


> There is the upcoming Zebralight S6330 and Fenix TK75 to consider. The T60CS looks the nicest to me but the low (50-70 lumens) just isn't low enough. Now if the low was more like 10-15 lumens....



I have decided to avoid getting any more 3x XM-L 3x18650 lights because of relatively limited run time. My Thrunite TN30 is a wonderful light, but would be even better with 4x18650. I have the Nitecore TM11 and TM15, as well as the Fenix TK75. They are all outstanding lights and their 4x18650's provide impressively long bright run time. The bodies aren't perceptively thicker than the 3x18650 lights, especially since the Nitecores have integrated battery holders. The TK75's body is thicker because of its screw-on multiple body extensions.

The T60CS (as well as the S633) seems to be superior lights, and if only they had 4x18650 I would consider them. 

Brightnorm


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## lightliker (Jan 16, 2013)

Mrbullred, how long did it took the confirmation ail and tracking numer to arrive after payment? I ordered it last tuesday........


Mrbullred said:


> I received mine from hke. The light is awesome. The only thing I notice is that hum on High mode. I can confirm that a simple click off then back on solves the problem. Has anyone figured out why it does this?


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## lightliker (Jan 23, 2013)

Still no reaction from HKE about delivering company in the netherlands yet, sent them 2 mails to ask them wich party delivers the item at my door but no reaction from stanley(s) yet ......
HongkongPost is a drag to communicate with :thinking:, stupid DTMF antique and failing trackingnumber system that doesn't understand my entered info after more than 10 minutes trying.......

Januari 28
Received a mail from hke some days ago: no info about the carrier in the netherlands and honkong post doesn't know nothing..... 11 days stuck at the border in my country without any information when it will be delivered to me, what a bummer:fail:


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## lightliker (Jan 30, 2013)

lightliker said:


> Still no reaction from HKE about delivering company in the netherlands yet, sent them 2 mails to ask them wich party delivers the item at my door but no reaction from stanley(s) yet ......
> HongkongPost is a drag to communicate with :thinking:, stupid DTMF antique and failing trackingnumber system that doesn't understand my entered info after more than 10 minutes trying.......
> 
> Januari 28
> Received a mail from hke some days ago: no info about the carrier in the netherlands and honkong post doesn't know nothing..... 11 days stuck at the border in my country without any information when it will be delivered to me, what a bummer:fail:


Finally my light arrived!! :thumbsup:, it took the dutch customs almost 2 weeks to process the package!! :sigh:
It looks fantastic however and there were no scratches dents or whats however, just mith state 
The colow difference on this model is reversed to the situation you discribed, the battery tube is a bit darker than the head. LED's are well centered and this light crancks out about the same lumens as my SR90 although the latter is KING at throw were the T60CS lights up more in a wider angle at say 100 yards. When I find the time, I will make a youtube upload to compare both lights.


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## ser1a (Feb 3, 2013)

Hi,
my T60CS stopped working- it seems problem is in battery carrier. It does short-circuit to ACCU as soon as I insert them all..
see pictures:
http://img249.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=891603146_zapojenie_122_557lo.JPG
http://img289.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=895273240_pluscast_122_212lo.JPG seems something is broken??
I use 3x 18650 protected 3100mAh Accu. As soon as I insert them all, 1-2 are broken(protection enable, 0.00V)

thank you for any advice


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## moldyoldy (Feb 3, 2013)

ser1a said:


> Hi,
> my T60CS stopped working- it seems problem is in battery carrier. It does short-circuit to ACCU as soon as I insert them all..
> see pictures:
> http://img249.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=891603146_zapojenie_122_557lo.JPG
> ...



I do not quite understand the information provided: If you insert 2 18650s into the carrier in any position, how do you determine that something is not short-circuited. 

Then when you add the 3rd 18650, what exactly happens?

Can you measure any voltage between the center post and the outside as you insert the 18650 cells?

Otherwise, the little fuse in the bottom of the carrier is usually at fault. It is supposed to open circuit the cells if some contact short-circuited the 3 cells in series, in or out of the T60. The only remedy is to either short it out and have no protection from a short circuit at the charging end of the T60, or order another cell carrier from your dealer.

the photo of the little fuse in the bottom of the carrier is not clear enough to discern whether the fuse simply opened, or a short circuit spattered some solder or other meltable metal.


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## ser1a (Feb 3, 2013)

moldyoldy said:


> I do not quite understand the information provided: If you insert 2 18650s into the carrier in any position, how do you determine that something is not short-circuited.
> 
> Then when you add the 3rd 18650, what exactly happens?
> 
> ...



Here is my measurement http://img258.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=915015567_zerovoltage_122_405lo.JPG
There are 3 fully charged Li-Ion 18650 Accu. There is no voltage. Earlier today it was activating battery protecion after inserting them into carraige, now it doest not do anything. Where can be problem?


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## moldyoldy (Feb 3, 2013)

ser1a said:


> Here is my measurement http://img258.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=915015567_zerovoltage_122_405lo.JPG
> There are 3 fully charged Li-Ion 18650 Accu. There is no voltage. Earlier today it was activating battery protecion after inserting them into carraige, now it doest not do anything. Where can be problem?



well, without any other info, that measurement of 0.00v indicates that the tiny fuse in the carrier base opened and disconnected the cells. meaning that something shorted out the cells and the fuse "blew". I do not know of any fuse easily available that will also fit into that space in the battery carrier. So as I wrote above, you should purchase a new battery carrier from Sunwayman.


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## ser1a (Feb 3, 2013)

moldyoldy said:


> well, without any other info, that measurement of 0.00v indicates that the tiny fuse in the carrier base opened and disconnected the cells. meaning that something shorted out the cells and the fuse "blew". I do not know of any fuse easily available that will also fit into that space in the battery carrier. So as I wrote above, you should purchase a new battery carrier from Sunwayman.




Thank you, I ve contacted sunwayman if they can send me replacement.. I have warranty period and also my T60CS registered so I suppose they will be honest and send me replacement for free...


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## Dubois (Apr 6, 2013)

Have Sunwayman finally produced a "plug" for this light? I notice in a few shipping photos of the lights that any plug is conspicious by it's absence, and wondered if anyone had received a light with this protection.


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## ser1a (Apr 25, 2013)

I want to share with you my experiences with Sunwayman customer "care". I complaint damaged part, they promised to send me it, forwarded me to my seller where I bought light, then told me they send him new part for me, but I still have nothing and they ignore my emails now. Sorry but I can not recommend their products any more.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 25, 2013)

ser1a said:


> I want to share with you my experiences with Sunwayman customer "care". I complaint damaged part, they promised to send me it, forwarded me to my seller where I bought light, then told me they send him new part for me, but I still have nothing and they ignore my emails now. Sorry but I can not recommend their products any more.


Hmmm, the long-term reliability of the light is an issue I mentioned in the review, as any accidental tripping of the carrier fuse would require a replacement carrier (which may be hard to get as time goes by). This is the second report I've seen on the unavailability of a replacement carrier recently, which is worrisome - it suggests my theoretical concern (at the time of review) is now becoming a practical one.

I recommend you follow up with the manufacturer again, letting them know what the dealer said. I'm not surprised that dealers don't have inventory of replacement carriers. Hopefully there is a miscommunication issue somewhere, and you can indeed obtain a replacement. Good luck, and let us know if you have any progress in resolving this issue.

_EDIT: _While I don't recommend people try to disable the fuse, that is an option if you are stuck with a blown fuse and no replacement carrier available. jh333233 posted just such a mod in this post. Note that if you do this, you MUST stick with using protected 18650 cells in the carrier (as that would at least provide some catastrophic short protection). You are much better sticking with a fuse-enable carrier, if at all possible, as you really want to avoid potentially shorting 18650 cells.


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## sucre (Oct 11, 2016)

Hello people, 

I have a strange problem with my T60CS charging base. Normaly, as I remember, when I put the flashlight in the charger, the green led was made red. But now the led just flashes red green red green like 5 6 seconds then remains green and no charging is made on my flashlight. 

Another strange problem is that when the flashlight is connected to the charger I can light with it and the green led turns red. When I took it off, my flashlight stops working.

Do I need to change my charging base?


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