# Describe your ideal headlamp



## PhantomPhoton (Oct 26, 2007)

I am going to describe my ideal headlamp in hopes that I motivate someone who is in the business or has the skill to make headlamps. I would love to hear thoughts from everyone else on my ideas as well as their own ideas.
So without further ado, I present PhantomPhoton's dream LED headlamp.  

First and foremost NO %$#&^ 3xAAA battery packs. 
いいえ, 无, 아니오, Aucune, Nein, Non, Nenhuma, нет, No!

2 AA or 2 CR123 for a nice compact solution. 4AA or 123s is doable too; might be better for what I want to be able to do. 
By AA I mean NiMh. Alkinine in a pinch at reduced levels is fine, but I want the light able to deliver photons for a short time if I need it. Build it for NiMh. 
Able to handle RCR123s is a must if we went the CR123 Route.

Now since this is my ideal dream, the best option of course is modular battery packs: so I can buy a pack for 2 or 4 AAs, 2-4 CR123s, 1 or 2 18650. A proprietary, rechargeable battery pack would be fine too. Options for the pack on headband or on a pouch worn closer to the body.


Second, I really don't like having a huge lump of batteries right behind the emitter. I prefer having a head mounted battery pack on the back or along the sides of the headstrap. This further facilitates the ability to use modular battery packs as well.


Next, our emitters. 
Crees Pleez. Over the next several months this could change of course, but at the time of this typing Crees with decently low VF. Two Crees to be exact. One Cree in a nice optic for throw, beside it a Cree with almost nothing, just pure flood.
Red 5mm LEDs. I am fond of THC3 LEDs. I'm not too up on my colored 5mm LED specs though so if there exists something for sure better please let me know. 
(I'm not sure how good the Cree Reds are or the Red Luxeons, but if they're more efficient than the 5mms I'd go with one of them instead.) 
Put Four red 5mms up there on the headlamp and we've got a decent package. Two on each side of the Crees.


Construction. Durable aluminum HAIII body with some machined heatsinking fins recessed in the back. Generous, removable forehead pad for when wearing against your head. If you're mounted on a helmet being able to remove the pad should help save some bulk. Yes the ability to mount on a bike or climbing helmet is wanted.

The headlamp would be rounded rectangular in shape.
[:Oo:] 
2 Red 5mms, Throw Cree, Flood White Cree, 2 Red 5mms.

If High Power Reds are a better choice than:
[oOo]
Red Led Floody, Throw Cree, Flood White Cree

Off in fantasy land it would be great to get the option for other colors. I'm quite fond of amber LEDs myself. I know some people like Blue-Greens as well. But if I had to choose one color Red would be first choice.


Finally let us talk UI.
Tiny little buttons that are difficult to press won't work. (had a couple headlamps with those ugh!) 
One button just won't cut it. 
In my mind we have a button for each LED. One for the throw Cree set up on top of the body. One for the Flood Cree set on the bottom. And one for the red which would be set on the side of the emitter housing. Unfortunately this would be complex. But the advantage is if one switch fails you still have two others that will give light. (On the other side we would have the wire that runs out to the battery pack.)

The Throw Cree needs 2 Levels: Medium and High. (by _high_ I mean as much as the batteries can deliver without starting your forehead on fire). No need for a Low power throw.
The Flood Cree needs 3 Levels: Long Runtime Low low power suitable for reading in the tent, a nice balanced Medium, and a _where the heck did I drop my keys out here_ High.
The Red needs a Low power and a Medium Power drive level. I see no need for a High on red.

No need for a strobe. I prefer the ability to use Morse Code rather than a set SOS. (besides it seems most light manufacturers can't get the SOS timing correct anyway) One thing I would like to see though is a locater beacon. Nice and bright to tell other people _here I am_. Red leds with a find me mode would be okay if we could cram it all in there. Battery voltage report via the red LEDs (like on a LiteFlux) would be icing on the cake.

Flat flat regulation that steps down on the white LEDs. Allow the reds to suck out every last electron. (if we're not on protected LiIons that is) The ability to run both Throw and Flood Crees at the same time. Even with both on high for a bit.


I have ideas for an ideal searchlight headlamp too using incan or HID, but for practical backpacking this is what I want. Red for me is especially good for sneaking about large sandstone rock formations at night in the pitch black desert while stargazing. Or for finding that water bottle in the middle of the night in the tent without waking your buddies.

If some company would make a light similar to this I'd buy 2 for me 3 for family and a couple more for friends, even with a $200+ price tag. (Just not all at the same time)


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## jar3ds (Oct 26, 2007)

* Battery and LED integrated . 
* 1xAA or 2xAA (including 14500)
* ~80grams
* WaterPROOF
* Red Light Option
* 4 White Light Levels, BURST, MED, LOW, Ultra Low


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## Dung Beetle (Oct 26, 2007)

1. 4 AA with optional remote battery pack with 4 CR123
2. Regulated
3. Soft start
4. HID like a WE Boxer 24 watt
5. 5 watt led or 2 cree
6. Waterproof
7. Boost mode and 3 levels
8. Tilt able
9. Nice headband

I would even settle for a headlamp that combines my Mag 2c with a 5761 and my PT Apex. :thumbsup:


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## Darkaway (Oct 26, 2007)

*This is Easy*

ZebraLight H50.


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## drmaxx (Oct 26, 2007)

For me the Apex is a good start.
Changes:
- A Cree/Rebel, .... emiter
- A very low mode (1-2 lumens, 1 LED only) 
- A detachable battery pack with extension cord, so that I can clip it to my belt, ...
- modular battery packs would be very cool
- and finally: the possiblity to use all 5 LEDs at the same time. There are 2 buttons afterall....


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## yellow (Oct 26, 2007)

an EOS front (maybe a bit bigger for heatsink)
sides/back from aluminium acting as sink
APEX batt pack on rear
Cree
one additional Turbo level
REFLECTOR instead of optic (McR-19XR, or better a more floody one - double sized mean beam dot)


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## Daekar (Oct 26, 2007)

Ideal headlamp... well, two really.

1) PT Apex is a great platform already. It needs:
~ 2x18650 option
~ updated LEDs (both primary and cluster) with adjusted heatsinking/driver. Keep the beams the same.
~ Add another brightness level to both primary and cluster. I know the cluster needs a lower-low, and with an SSC-P4 dropped in the primary needs a lower-low as well. Don't remember if the primary low was low enough unmodded.

AND

2) The 18650 version of the Zebralight, with an emitter at each end, and simple tacticle-response buttons like on the Apex. Simple UI please. Make one side exactly like the current Zebralight, don't change a thing - and make the other side a more focused beam. Keep the three brightness settings, they're perfect.


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## datiLED (Oct 26, 2007)

2x RC123 or 17650/18650 cell.
Seoul or CREE LED with OP reflector.
3 levels: very low, primary and high.
Ultra flat regulation with low battery warning and emergency low level.
Optional diffuser


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## GaryF (Oct 26, 2007)

Ideal Headlamp - Design Criteria

Battery and lamp all in one unit for simplicity / reliability.
Single AA battery power source 
3 light levels: Low=Under 5 Lumens, Med=15 Lumens, High=75 Lumens
Spot beam switch able to Flood via diffuser
Efficient circuit and emitter – Runtime 12hrs+ on Medium, 2hrs+ on high
Lightweight design
Waterproof


Some ideas that would come pretty close:
1. Take a Fenix LOD-CE head and build it into a headlamp, powering it with an AA battery for increased runtime. A flip down diffuser and a clickie switch would round it out nicely.

2. Give the ZebraLight a focused lens, and then add a diffuser similar to what the Rayovac 1 AA Sportsman Extreme uses and a clickie switch.

3. The closest thing on the market so far is the Rayovac Sportsman Extreme, with my only real complaints being the short runtime and the lack of lower levels for the white LED. Replace that goofy blue 5mm LED with a white one, and this light would be pretty close, but I’ll still be unhappy with runtime on the Luxeon.

At this point I’m very interested in Zebralight and Fenix future offerings. I would consider a 2 AA or a single CR123 based light that met most of my other criteria.


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## Nitro (Oct 26, 2007)

My ideal headlamp would be a special compact clip, that holds a 120P (or any small light), allowing it to attach to a ball cap and adjust down. I still haven't found anything like it.


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## NoFair (Oct 26, 2007)

Daekar said:


> Ideal headlamp... well, two really.
> 
> 1) PT Apex is a great platform already. It needs:
> ~ 2x18650 option
> ...


 
If you cut the wire and put connectors on the ends you can use the PT Apex with 2 18650s or RC car packs or any other suitable option you want.
There aren't any stock 2 18650 holders out there, but if you get C-cell holders they can be modified.

Totally agree with the other suggestions.

A headlamp using 2 P3D r100 heads and a finned holder for cooling would be great. Fitting a diffuser to one or both heads would also be easy. I'd ditch the strobe and SOS from the driver though

Separate battery packs could range from about 4V to 12+V. A 2 or 4 18650 pack would be great


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## Bushman5 (Oct 26, 2007)

- rubber headband for helmet attachment
- stretchy headband for hat or bare head use
- machined aluminum billet body, sand tumbled for smoothness
- UPGRADEABLE
- milspec toggle switch DPST (HI OFF LO) with silicone rubber cover
- all electronics sealed with epoxy
- HI: 200+ lumens
- LO: 5 lumens
- flip down red filter (aluminum body, glass or polycarb lens)
- choice of flood or throw reflectors, aluminum, no plastic)
- double "O" ring sealed (dive rated to 20 feet)
- Belt or backpack battery pack - with flexible battery leads in silicone tubing, case made from aluminum tubing, triple O ring sealed, double lock access to batteries. 
- +/- studpost connections to headlamp with silicone rubber covers - NO PLUGS! 
- run time of 60 days on low, 2 weeks on high

:devil:


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## GaryF (Oct 26, 2007)

Bushman5 said:


> - rubber headband for helmet attachment
> - stretchy headband for hat or bare head use
> - machined aluminum billet body, sand tumbled for smoothness
> - UPGRADEABLE
> ...



Didn't you leave something off? "All for one low payment of just $19.95" :twothumbs


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## degarb (Oct 27, 2007)

In oversimplistic terms: battery life and beam throw = efficiency of bulb.

Else, I would use a halogen over led.

Need for life: one long work/play day/night.

Need good throw of light: (variable voltage control, with reading mode)This means great LED bulb + remember that the reflector is extremely important. (compare Dorcy 1 watt to a real brinkman or garrity.)

So, what is up with the new 3 watt led that suck batteries? Why do we want a candle or darkness after 1 or 2 hours of use--or worse and typical, 10 minutes? Why not give me a bulb that uses same or less energy as my 3 AAA 1 watt luxeon, to double the light output I am used to seeing?

The rest is icing on the cake: form factor, switch placement... 

The beam (during course of use) is only as good as the battery source and efficiency.


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## paulr (Oct 27, 2007)

H50 is on the right track for me, though not yet perfect. Very lightweight, 1AA (not 2AA not 4AA) powered, rugged, bright. Flood beam. I haven't felt the need for a throw beam in a headlamp. That's what handheld lights are for. 

Things I'd change about the H50: 1) make it not wiggle around in the headband bracket; 2) simplify the UI to a straightforward 2 or 3 level twisty; 3) Use a retractable cord type headband like the petzl zipka.


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## degarb (Oct 27, 2007)

paulr said:


> H50 I haven't felt the need for a throw beam in a headlamp. That's what handheld lights are for.



Any physical activity needs a hands free headlamp other than just walking. 

I find a headlamp that throws more also shows most detail in items upon which I am focused. I almost never use the 3x5 mm led mode on my Garrity, rather the 1 watt Luxeon or regulated to %75. %50 regulation is too weak.

Too weak (or sub-optimal) are the regular led headlamps-- like the Nikkias-- for walking, jogging, landscaping after sundown, painting, sanding, patching walls, carpentry, auto repair, car cleaning at night, working on computer guts, or just cleaning up the basement.

There may be a point where an unregulated 4 watt is too bright for even walking down the street without blinding people in their own homes, etc. And yes, I like the 5 mm leds for reading at night or map reading.

My Chant is: Throw, Regulation, and Battery life (AA rechargeable only practical)! Then comes form. 

I paint professionally, and require all men to use 2000watts of halogen in Night time inside (700 to 1500 watts in day), with 1 watt luxeon on head at all times (since you are in shadow of work lights and only a moving light can truly show all texture imperfections). My theory being 3000 watts of halogen at 8 to 10 foot from wall, equals daylight outside. Also, a 1 watt Luxeon led with good reflector gives outside daylight brightness at 4 foot distance for 3 in diameter. And on sunny days with snow around house, a well windowed room can allow over 2000 watt/10 foot halogen equivalent onto that one imperfect wall, yet was belovedly checked over twenty times. Furthermore, that 60 watt incandescent bulb, 6 inches from wall, can show imperfections a 1500 watt-10 foot distant halogen might never show.


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## Bushman5 (Oct 27, 2007)

GaryF said:


> Didn't you leave something off? "All for one low payment of just $19.95" :twothumbs




stay tuned.... there are aluminum chips flying as we speak. I might NOT know my way around a circuit board , vf, etc etc. but i can machine and build very simple solidstate bombproof stuff. :naughty:


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## paulr (Oct 27, 2007)

The H50 on high is at least 5x brighter than the 3x5mm led mode on your Garrity so it might be bright enough for your painting requirements. I think it's bright enough for just about any close-up task, and its even illumination is just wonderful. Certainly museum lighting goes for evenness rather than intensity, and is designed for very close examination of the items being lit.


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## serious sam (Oct 27, 2007)

It is very difficult to manufacture an all-in-one headlamp with variable modes and variable throw to satisfy every person in this planet. So while I was playing with my zebralight today, this is what I done:






I have attach another bracket and manage to slide in my P1D CE for throw. This combination is very light and now i have lots of flood and lots of throw with lots of modes to choose from!! 

However, I wanted to save costs and maintain the AA size battery for my headlamp. But the soft silicone bracket is too soft to hold up to the weight of 2 X AA light. What to do? simple.... make another sturdier bracket or get a NiteIze headband. Here I am using the zebralight with my L2D CE:





I can use my LOD and even my P1D CE.... but twisties are a bit hard to operate with one hand. L2D CE still my choice for one hand operation.

So basically I can use all my favourite light for all sorts of conditions as long as it would fit in the headband.

The zebralight bracket fits in the headband perfectly as it was ment to do so: 






So now I have more option, selection of lights, modes, CREE, REBELS, SSC, incandescent light, batteries types, you name it.... as my headlamp (except H.I.D. ok..) I just swap around until i am satisfy with the combination I choose and for the type of application I need. One headlamp fits all? probably not 100% but it satisfy me.

Incandescent? No problemo: 





The A2 headlamp 

one question remains.... wonder how it looks like to wear the headband with fully strapped with like 10 zebralight? Mr. Light Pole?


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## degarb (Oct 27, 2007)

How do you like the l2d? Why not just go to walmart fabric section and buy industrial vecro straps? Looks very interesting, probably would swap at 5 hours for new rechargeables on a 10 hour day/night.

The zebra also looks interesting for med setting, but for painting, only 75% 1 watt lux is good enough from what I've tried. Lowes carries the Dorcy 1 watt lux, but the reflector is so shallow, the light sucked so much for sanding/caulking door frames that I use it only as an emergency backup light. The Dorcy would be good for carpentry, though I modify any 3AAA lights to use a 3AA pack (1 watt luxeon is rated 15 hour battery, but 4 good hours on 3 AAA). (More than spotting textural imperfections at 12-16 foot distant, the focus and throw of the light that the Brinkman and Garrity have, forces painter workers to do eye jumps across the surface at very great illumination, rather than glance at a wall and say, okay ready to paint.)


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## degarb (Oct 27, 2007)

Great post!


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## degarb (Oct 27, 2007)

degarb said:


> (More than spotting textural imperfections at 12-16 foot distant, the focus and throw of the light that the Brinkman and Garrity have, forces painter workers to do eye jumps across the surface at very great illumination, rather than glance at a wall and say, okay ready to paint.)



I almost forgot, my ideal headlamp would have a tiny camera in it--hidden to the eye--to video every employee's every move. For evaluation purposes and proof all work was being done properly, naturally. And, for under 20 bucks, naturally.


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## nzbazza (Oct 27, 2007)

@ SeriousSam:

I love your idea!!!:twothumbs


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## serious sam (Oct 28, 2007)

degarb said:


> How do you like the l2d? Why not just go to walmart fabric section and buy industrial vecro straps?


 
Actually I prefer the slightly not so white beam of the LOD CE. I don't own any luxeon lights thus can't comment on luxeon light. The L2D is really good for throw but not as good as incandescent light color rendition would do for me. But it do the job.

The NiteIze headband is the only thing I have laying around unused ever since I get my Foxfury headlamp. And no modifications is needed... it is design for its intended purpose.

@nzbazza 
:laughing::laughing:


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## carbine15 (Oct 28, 2007)

My perfect headlamp is a single cell, multi brightness, front mounted light weight long runtime. that's all.


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## paulr (Oct 28, 2007)

Serious Sam, great 2-light setup, but if the 2aa light is too large for the H50 headband, why not use a 1aa, L1DCE/L1T or whatever?


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## serious sam (Oct 28, 2007)

paulr said:


> Serious Sam, great 2-light setup, but if the 2aa light is too large for the H50 headband, why not use a 1aa, L1DCE/L1T or whatever?


 
Because I currently don't own any 1 AA cell light... :mecry:
have thought of getting a L1D CE before tho... and I kinda prefer a light that can be single hand operated and another can be a twisties.... so that you always have choices of how many hand you want to use to turn either one of your lights on/change modes.

Anyway, the Zebralight silicone bracket is kinda soft and any heavier lights would wriggle when you move/turn your head (fast enough?) thats why I only use my P1D CE whth the silicone bracket.


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## :)> (Oct 28, 2007)

serious sam said:


> It is very difficult to manufacture an all-in-one headlamp with variable modes and variable throw to satisfy every person in this planet. So while I was playing with my zebralight today, this is what I done:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



What a great idea!


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## WadeF (Oct 30, 2007)

Nice rig serious_sam! I'm waiting for my first Zebra light to arrive. Can you order the extra holders from their site? I'm thinking Zebra light in the middle and a Fenix P3D on each side.


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## leukos (Oct 31, 2007)

serious sam is on the right track for what I would like headlamp manufacturers to produce: some headband options that can accommodate our handheld lights. This kydex company in Korea is about as close as to what I have in mind: http://lcggear.com/zb/zboard.php?id...y=&sn=off&ss=on&sc=on&keyword=&sn1=&divpage=1


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## cat (Oct 31, 2007)

+1. 
Elastic headbands instead of webbing like the Nite-Ize one.
Who sells those Nite-Ize headbands? 

hey, that Korean place has got _cool_ stuff! :wow:


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## Sasquatch1985 (Nov 9, 2007)

I'd have to say that the Ideal would be something verey similar to a PT Apex including the windowed 5 mills but with only 2 of the 5 mills being white. For low output they are still way to bright for walking around a campground or use in a tent. The other two should stay but be replaced with two reds and have thier own mode selections. Finaly there should be a detachable batterey pack using a readily avainlable conector and optional packs for diferent batteries.


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## jbieszke (Nov 10, 2007)

My ideal headlamp, 
it has to be very light, very bright (180 lumens+), spot (60 meters) to flood, no top strap!!, CR123 RCR123 3.7 compatible, hi-low, long runtime (6-8 hrs high), quality build, and less than $100. make me something please!


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## TMorita (Nov 25, 2007)

I'm a headlamp junkie. I think I have about 20 headlamps right now, so I have some opinions on this.

First of all, housing - polycarbonate or natural aluminum. No painted plastic or anodized metal, because after you take it caving a few times it'll be completely scratched, and scratched painted plastic looks awful. Polycarbonate will look fine becuase the color is embedded in the plastic, not just on the surface.

Hinges - big and sturdy. The PT Apex has wimpy hinges which are easily broken. BD Zenix IQ and Pelican Headsup 2630 have good hinges.

Battery pack - on the back of the head, 3AA or 2AA or 2CR123, with three straps to the battery pack (one over top of head). Battery wire should have a connector for optional 3C or 4C hip battery pack. Have you ever tried to change batteries in a headlamp? You can't see anything because the headlamp is off. I want a battery pack with a built-in light so you can see the batteries when you're changing them. This could be done with a 5mm LED in the cover powered by two CR2016s which are automatically turned on when you flip open the battery case lid.

Beam - it needs lots of flood plus a tight spot. A headlamp beam is fundamentally different from a flashlight beam, IMHO. You need a lot of spill on a headlamp for two reasons:

1) You can look straight ahead, but still illuminate the immediate path in front of you.
2) So you don't need to "scan" your head back and forth to see large objects.

This could be done either two ways: one LED with a shallow reflector, or two LEDs: one w/o a reflector, and one with a deep reflector. 

Light modes - for a single LED solution, at least three or four lighting levels. For a two LED solution, I'd want three levels of flood only, and maybe three levels of flood + spot.

The choice of lighting levels is pretty important, IMHO. If you're traveling with a group and you have a single-mode 100+ lumen headlamp, people will hate you, because every time you turn around to face them, you will blind them with just the spill, and they see spots for 5 minutes afterwards. You probably want the medium mode to be about 30 lumens - bright enough to be useful, but not so bright to blind people. Low mode maybe 10 lumens, and high mode maybe 100+ lumens.

Regulation - fairly flat, with a long moon mode. If you're caving and you forget to bring fresh batteries, this is important - you don't want to be left completely in the dark even if pull a doofus move.

LED tint - for use with caving, you probably want a warmer tint so earth tones (browns/yellows) show up better. If there are multiple LEDs, the tint should be matched so it's not annoying to switch between modes.

Battery indicator - green/yellow/red for >50%, <50%, and <25%, mounted so you can check the indicator WITHOUT removing the headlamp. This is one of my pet peeves. The worst one for this is the PT Apex. Where is the worst place to mount a battery indicator? On the front, where you have to remove the headlamp, and cover the beam with your palm so you can actually see it - and yup, that's where they put it on the Apex. The BD Zenix IQ is a bit better, because it's on the side where it's easier to see, but you still need to remove the headlamp to check it. The best place I can think of to mount the battery indicator is on a coiled battery cord in a little plastic housing. This way, you can pull the indicator into your field of vision to check the battery power. The indicator lights shouldn't be too bright - maybe a few hundred mcd - enough so you can see the color, but not so bright that it bothers you all the time.

Switch - big switch, usable with gloves, mounted where you don't bump it against things when in close quarters. The BD Zenix and PT Apex do an OK job of this, because the switch is on the bottom of the headlamp.

I'm thinking of modding a Petzl Duo to meet most of these requirements. I can mod the 5mm LED side to be a Cree w/o reflector for the flood, and mod the incan side to be a Cree with an McR reflector for a tight spot. The only part I'd have trouble with is the battery indicator.

Toshi


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## 2ManyLights (Nov 25, 2007)

*2AA (e2s for weight)
*Plastic
*LED and batteries in the same housing
*Retractable headband (definitely no top strap, anyway)
*Reflector for throw but with a slide-over diffuser (think rayovac exteme or tikka XP)
*Slide-over red lens, but slightly more recessed than the diffuser so they overlap and you could use them both at the same time (diffused, red, or red diffused)
*3 brightness settings: High (for throw) Med (camp activities) Lo (reading)
*Waterproof
*Free (A fellow can dream)


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## PhantomPhoton (Nov 25, 2007)

TMorita, I agree.
I like the Black Diamond Zenix IQ. The things it is missing are:
Modern LED, easily fixable.
Red LEDs, because I'm complicated like that.
Floody 5MMs, I don't liek the stock ones much - also easily fixable if I could find some nice floody white 5mms.
The ability to run both 5mms and main at the same time.

Adding on plugs for a bigger battery pack wouldn't hurt.
And I think a good HAIII Natural Job would hold up quite well on a headlamp. Type 2 anodizing is a waste of time IMO.


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## TMorita (Nov 25, 2007)

PhantomPhoton said:


> ...
> Floody 5MMs, I don't liek the stock ones much - also easily fixable if I could find some nice floody white 5mms.
> ...


 
Check this thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/149200

If you want to try the ISP 30 degree LEDs, shoot me your address and I'll send you two. Let me know if you want warm or cool tint, and I'll send you a matched pair.

Toshi


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## slvoid (Nov 27, 2007)

I'd want something with a good 3-5 watter. 
Adjustable focus, preferably having the mechanism inside the main body so it's harder to damage. 
Replaceable lens protector. 
Running on AA batteries. 
Battery indicator at the bottom of the lamp housing so you can see it without taking it off. 
A few 5mm LED's for backup being driven off a separate driver with its own coin cell backup power hooked in parallel to the main batteries dioded to keep the main lamp from draining the coin cells. 
A small surface mount led built into the inside of the battery compartment. 
The battery compartment should be environmentally sealed off from the inside of the unit. 
A large lockable rotary knob for control with a spring-back momentary boost mode. 
If there's a fault with the switch, the light should default to the low mode for backup. 
Customizable light levels. 
A locator flash like the HDS lights. 
2 sensors on the underside to monitor your eyes so it'll automatically adjust the light to focus on where your eyes are looking. 
Self destruct, just case you're really stuck in a cave forever and you want to make it quick.


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## nzbazza (Nov 27, 2007)

IDEAL HEADLAMP

This is my ideal headlamp for lightweight tramping(hiking. backpacking) Hopefully it will be a reality within the next 1-2 years. (as the required LED efficiency is around 200lm/W @ 350mA)

General:
Base design on Zebralight H50 with the following changes:

Physical:
Batt: 1 AA
Weight: 60g w/ batt and headband
Material: 6061 Al Alloy, HA3 coating
Lens: Hardened Polycarbonate TIR - redesign head to protect lens dome
Keep removable pocket clip. Improve adhesion to thinner fabrics

Levels and Output Performance:All levels current regulated w/ following dim moon mode
Low: For Campsite and Close-at-Hand Tasks
Med: For Night Tramping on tracks/routes
High: For Night Tramping in rough terrain/no routes, Spoting

Level | Light Output Runtime hr
| lm (Sanyo 2700mAh)
====================================
Low: | 5.00 100.0 
------|-----------------------------
Med: | 25.0 20.0 
------|-----------------------------
High: | 100.0 3.50 
====================================

Twisty Switch:
>1/2 turn open - Off and Lock Out
1/2 turn open - Low
1/4 turn open - Med
Fully Closed - High

GITD Bracket:
Stiffen plate against head and headband holes. 

Beam:
Focused beam as per Fenix P2D-RB100. 
Polycarbonate band wraps around head (120 deg). Band rotates around head in groove to cover the LED. Gap in band for normal mode (focused). Diffuser segment to provide flood beam. Red segment to preserve night vision.

Variation 1: 
Programmable option to allow adjustment of levels to any value between 1-100 lumens

Variation 2: 
Continuously variable output between 1-100 lumens by twisting tailcap 1 complete turn. 
>1 turn open - Off and Lock Out
1 turn open - min 1 lm
Fully Closed - max 100 lm


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## bigfoot (Nov 28, 2007)

I'd like to see a headlamp with a newer LED (Cree, etc.) for more throw and runtime. Most of all I'd like to see something that runs on one or two AA cells.


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## PhantomPhoton (Nov 29, 2007)

Yea bigfoot, I'd wager a super-majority of CPFers agree with that. But the rumors of Fenix making a headlamp have been confirmed, so hopefully we'll see something soon.

Myself I just bought 2 Zenix IQ headlamps on closeout from Sierra trading post and a couple of Warm white SSC's to do a mod for presents. I'm also waiting for the Coleman CR2 Cree headlamp to become available.

By the way ROFL @ _Orygun_


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## Lightmania (Nov 29, 2007)

I don't know a whole lot about headlamps and their brands (the one I got from Walmart is sufficient enough for the job. Rayovac, I believed. The one with 3xAAA, a throw incandescent, 2 flood white LEDs and one red LED) so my apologize if such idea already exist! But since this is a "your dream" post, here's mine:

This headlampt will have most of the features that most headlamps already have (red LED, lightweight, etc) but with this simple addition. 

You know how some cameras can sense whether the camera is being held in landscape or vertical? (My Canon dSLR can do that. Really neat! It cut down my time spent rotating the pictures in the post-process) 

Take that sensor out of the camera and put it in a headlamp. When I look down in front of me, I get the flood mode and when I look up and look at things afar, I get the throw mode. 

Simple and hand-free. This would be VERY useful when I'm on my boat out in the ocean (especially when I'm working with the anchor). There would be an override switch so that it can function as a standard headlamp if the situation called for it.


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## PhantomPhoton (Nov 30, 2007)

That is quite interesting. :thumbsup: I like it. I don't know how expensive such a mechanism would be, nor do I know what is responsible for it.

One thing I've always though would be interesting to try on a headlamp is a light sensor. I have a 10+ year old Sony TV with a function that scales the TV's brightness to the ambient lighting levels. SO if you're in a bright well lit room the TV turns brightness up so you can see it. If you're in a dark room, the TV is easier on the eyes, less eye strain and such.
Now apply this to a headlamp. If I'm using a high powered headlamp, and I bring something up close to my face for a look, more light will be bounced back to the sensor reducing output a bit so I don't blind myself. Likewise if I turn to face someone else with a headlamp and I start catching some of their light, my light will dim as well so my buddy doesn't get blasted in the eyeballs.


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## slvoid (Dec 1, 2007)

About 50 cents.



PhantomPhoton said:


> That is quite interesting. :thumbsup: I like it. I don't know how expensive such a mechanism would be, nor do I know what is responsible for it.
> 
> One thing I've always though would be interesting to try on a headlamp is a light sensor. I have a 10+ year old Sony TV with a function that scales the TV's brightness to the ambient lighting levels. SO if you're in a bright well lit room the TV turns brightness up so you can see it. If you're in a dark room, the TV is easier on the eyes, less eye strain and such.
> Now apply this to a headlamp. If I'm using a high powered headlamp, and I bring something up close to my face for a look, more light will be bounced back to the sensor reducing output a bit so I don't blind myself. Likewise if I turn to face someone else with a headlamp and I start catching some of their light, my light will dim as well so my buddy doesn't get blasted in the eyeballs.


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## erkkimerkki (Dec 1, 2007)

cat said:


> +1.
> Elastic headbands instead of webbing like the Nite-Ize one.
> Who sells those Nite-Ize headbands?
> 
> hey, that Korean place has got _cool_ stuff! :wow:



Hey, I need too one of thos Nite-Ize headbands for my Fenix. Fenix-store doesn't have them oo: , so does anyone know a place to get them with free international shipping, like Fenix-store has.


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## sORe-EyEz (Dec 1, 2007)

ideal huh? 

window/lense;
- AR coatings on mineral glass 

bulb;
- very energy efficient LED
- gd heatsink w/ little heat, constant "on" on high at least 6hrs
- a slightly amber tint would be nice, say 3500kelvin

batt;
- 2 pieces (max)
- either AA or CR123
- same unit as bulb assembly, no cables

beam profile;
- spot w/ some spill
- option to attach filters like single-lense-reflex cameras (screw-on)

body;
- impact resistant polymer is gd enough

on/off mechanism;
- similiar to simple forward clickies of handheld- half depressed for momentary, full click for constant "on", slider switch to lock-out

dimmer function;
- in preset stages or like wall dimmers (smooth)

pivot joint;
- just like premium camera tripod ball joint. 180 degree angle both axis.

water resistance/proof;
- dive rated 5 bars

weight;
- under 200 grams

price;
- under $200

can i continue :sleepy: *dreaming*


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## cat (May 15, 2008)

Bushman5 said:


> - rubber headband for helmet attachment
> - stretchy headband for hat or bare head use
> - machined aluminum billet body, sand tumbled for smoothness
> - UPGRADEABLE
> ...



I just now read this one - it's good! (The thread came up in a search for combinations of Zebralight and Fenix. I was looking for examples of Fenix lights being used with the Zebralight headband.) 

Quote:
Originally Posted by *GaryF* 

 
_Didn't you leave something off? "All for one low payment of just $19.95" :twothumbs_

I'd pay $150 for it, no problem. 




Bushman5 said:


> - milspec toggle switch DPST (HI OFF LO)



I said back then that good switches are expensive. But to me, worth it, to pay $15-$20 more.


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## lilmarvin4064 (May 15, 2008)

I figured I'll post my wishlist b4 reading everyone else's, then I'll go back and read theirs. 

1 high power cree or P7?? , with a nice wide tight spot, and LOTS of spill. Burst, High, M-HIGH, and Ultra-low. 

4 red 5mms, 2 forward, and 2 slightly downward (map reading, etc.). 

I HATE seperate battery packs. The wire leads always develop some problems, loose connections, etc (Black Diamond!! ) I prefer it all to be one unit. 

18650 is nice or AA (Nimh and 14550 and 1.5V). I'm trying to get away from 123s. 

Weight is more of an issue for me than runtime. 2-3 hours on high/m-high is good enough for me.

tell me I'm wrong! whatever


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## snala (May 15, 2008)

My thoughts are keep it simple but give it some power please.
4xAA's in a 2x2 matrix. Like two L2D-CE Q5's basically stuck together with 1 smooth and 1 OP reflector. Both having a switch each just on and off so like a L2T or TK10. Both having twist heads to go low / high power only.
End result, no UI to make it complex, 5 light settings: Lo(80 lumens), lo/lo(160), Lo/Hi(240), Hi/Hi (360 lumens) and Hi(180). So power ranging from (i'd suggest Lo as 80 lumens like a TK10, this is for outdoor applications, buy a zebralight for walking if you want less) 80 to 360 lumens.
Runtimes of about 12+? hours (1 xLo) to 2.5 hours on Hi/Hi but still outputting 360 lumens! AA's are easy to swap if you want more time.
Mounted on head by elasticated headband (provided) or can be ziptied anywhere using 4 the mounting points provided on the outside edges of the battery compartment.
Make the heads swivel through 90 degrees so it can point forward or lie sideways (like the zebralight) and you have the ultimate headlamp / bike mountable outdoor light. 
Power and performance like this other brands charge $200+ and use battery packs which aren't easily replaced. If Fenix could do all this for less than $100 USD us Mountain bikers especially are one group that would go nuts over this.


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## cat (May 16, 2008)

The applications and perceived needs vary, like from low light flood beams for camping, various levels of light and flood and focus for hiking and running, red light for map reading and keeping night vision, and so on. 

I've never had any of the typical Petzl and Energizer type headlamps but (because of cpf addiction) I got a Zebralight H50 P4 to use mainly for working on motorbikes in badly lit garages. 

So far, for me, Zebralight are the only ones on the right track. They have good LEDs, they're well-made, and they're light. I think 3 or 4 AA batteries are too heavy and I don't want the complication of arranging a separate battery pack on the back of my head. And the Zebralight swivel arrangement is simple and unbreakable. 

The Zebralight H50 is good for me when there's no light, but in my garage with bad lighting, the full flood beam is not so useful, and I've been thinking about how to improve it by adding a Fenix to it - like an L1D, so it's also AA, and with a push-button switch. 

snala, something close to your description could be done with the L2D's on a Zebralight strap and brackets. But it's not less than $100.


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## degarb (May 20, 2008)

Having modded many lamps, I conclude that a 3 AA format can be nearly same comfort as a 1 aa. The trick is 1 AA front and 2 rear.

I suppose the same trick could be used for 18560s or cr123's by breaking up the pack. Naturally 35 watt hour packs will allow 3 watts over 10 hours for a real work day with real light levels.

Also, I prefer the rebel 100's for color rendering and efficiency. But certainly haven't tried more than 2 cree bins. mixing 2 leds of differing bins or brands offers best color rendering. 

Also, hate with a passion, controller and boost circuits. In short, they suck. When I throw a battery in a light, I wish it to work. This is seldom the case of fully regulated lights. Also, they seldom offer enough settings to make the light fully efficient for the task. Perhaps a lightly regulated light with a total rheostat, will give best efficiency and reliability. Ex. for moving ladders and cleanup, I may need only a 41 milliamp draw on a reb 100, 50 hours theoretical run time on 3 AA 2650's.


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## Skeeterbytes (May 20, 2008)

Starting with the Tikka XP, power it with two AAs, add a red lens option to the diffuser, start the switch cycle on low instead of high, ensure effective regulation along with stepping up the voltage, increase the water-resistance rating (IPX 6 or 7).

That's everything I want, in a tidy, lightweight, high-performance, flexible, economical package.

Cheers,

--Rick


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## Omega Man (May 22, 2008)

If the Rayovac Extreme had a LOW mode, better runtime, and a green instead of red LED, it would be perfect for me.
I'm back on the hunt for a headlamp because of this, so please keep contributing to this thread guys, I've got a small list of candidates.


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## cat (May 22, 2008)

I'm not buying any of the "tradtitional" type headlamps - and that's for _my_ application now, of close-up work - because they're all too expensive for the cheap LEDs they use, and I want a reflector. So I'll use some combination of RB100 head with L1D or P2D body. 

However, we're far from getting anything close to what's been described in this thread, unfortunately. There are so many combinations of what's been mentioned here that would be way more ideal than we can get now.


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## Hooked on Fenix (May 23, 2008)

One ideal headlight isn't good enough. I want two. The first is pretty simple. A PT Quad with Nichia GS l.e.d.s. This one is for backpacking. Light, waterproof, tough, regulated, 3 brightness levels, low battery warning, no p.w.m..
The second light would be more like a PT Apex. Using a 115 lumen/watt K2 l.e.d. (the one Lumileds has been promising us for over a year) with good color rendition, warm white, and no beam rings. It should have Nichia GS l.e.d.s for the four 5mm l.e.d.s. Waterproof, regulated, and tough built are a must. Voltage range from 2.5-9+volts needed. Double O-ring sealed rear battery pack screws and unscrews from wire to allow different optional battery packs using the battery type and number of batteries of your choice to be used. Extension cord available for bike mounting and keeping battery pack under jacket in the cold. Bracket on front of light also mounts to bike handle bars. Red l.e.d.s mounted on back of battery pack to be used as bike taillight. Back half of battery pack is clear so red l.e.d.s can be used to see when changing the batteries. One CR2032 battery will run the red l.e.d.s only when the battery case is open to change the batteries. Works as a bike light, a bike taillight, a regular headlight, and a cold weather light. You don't need another light to change the batteries. It could be 200+ lumens at a three watt level. You get a spot light and area light with the battery of your choice. It can't cost more than $60.


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## shakeylegs (May 23, 2008)

18650 emoli driven multi level P7 zebra style


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## petersmith6 (May 24, 2008)

my ideal Headlamp would be an PT Apex BUT
1 made out of proper plastic not that cheap stuf
2 a proper hinge that dosnt break
3 i REALY water proof to 1 meter (mine foged up when it raind 5 miles away
4 i want a good emmiter SSC-P4 will do.
5 i would keep the optic,But would like to be able to atatch a defuser
6 the 4 led are a nice touch,But the low mode is FAR to bright so a lower low mode please.
7 i want 2 Blue led for working at night.i find it presurves my night vision.that and i cant have red ones.i work on the railway so if a train driver sees a red light he will stop.
8 for power i want 4 AA's ( the cheap avalable fron ANY dinky little village or gas station but i want to be able to plug in an external power pack for cold weather and greater runtimes.
9 i want it to have proper regulation and a switch so i can tell it that is running on Nimh cell.
10 i want it to swich off (after warning me)when the voltage is getting to low to save the cells hence the switch(i want to save my Nimh from over discharge but i want to be able to over ride it)
11 i want it to be compatible with say an external lithium ion power pack
12 come with both elastic fabric and ruber straps (one for head one for my hard hat..safty helmit)
13 oh and i want it to be RELIABLE!! am i asking too much


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## CampingLED (May 24, 2008)

I want one with a remote control to keep in my pocket. Functions of the remote:
- on-off
- adjust the up-down angle
- adjust the brightness level
- adjust the beam flood to spot

everytime I do one of these things to my headlamp I need to move it slightly to get to my comfortable fit. The remote will eliminate this. The remote will also help to find the headlamp in the dark, providing you have the remote available and the range is good.


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## anthonytsi (May 31, 2008)

A Petzl Myo XP 2008 that is totally waterproof. Thats it. That is all of the modification they need to make this the perfect headlamp for a caver, imo.


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## AdamW (May 31, 2008)

The Ideal Headlamp:

Zebralight h501. AA form with a clicky switch.


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