# 3 x P7 Mag DIY with Der Wichtel heatsink! Beamshots are up!



## StefanFS (May 4, 2009)

This is kind of a pictorial...

It's based on this very smart driver solution provided by CPF user download:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201392










I used 2 level drivers I got from KD, they were 1A with one AMC7135 position unpopulated. I then soldered an additional AMC7135 to that empty socket and had an 1.4A driver. Connections to slave/additional boards are as in my thread below. Total current to each emitter is around 2.8A with D-size LiION.


What you need first of all: 3 x SSC P7. I used 1 DSXOI and 2 DSWOI for a nice white beam. The DSXOI was regulated via an AMC7135 based sandwich driver as found here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/195358

I have another with only DSXOI emitters for a cold white shocker. 

It all runs from three D-size LiION cells, three 18650 cells or 9 x AA NiMH in fivemega or mdocod cell holders. See links at the end of this post.

Der Wichtels sales thread for the heatsink, reflectors and his buck driver.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/229098































































I used a thin plastic circle to fill the space between reflector and the led to press the led down when the epoxy cured. From a platic lid, 0.6 mm or so. Cut with hole punches.







For use with three D-LiION the spring needs to be cut to avoid to much pressure on the cells, they are longer than standard D cells. Same with using three 18650 cells, that requires more radical cutting! Springs are recessed into the tailcap. Tailcaps are deanodized with lye/drain cleaner and hot water. A few grains of powder is enough. Sodium hydroxide is dangerous and will burn skin/eyes, and it fumes. Be careful. 














It's bright.







I've been promising outdoor beamshots for some time now. It's coming soon in post #2.

As for performance; I've been using the two lights with 3 x D LiION and have no problems in week three. Mag switches keep up fine and leds do not overheat. They are so bloody bright.

Some cell configs:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/182370

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=2751

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=2708

I prefer the unproteceted D cells. That entails some responsibility in usage, charge them correctly and do check voltage/capacity. They are good quality industrial cells, but not infallible. It's up to the user to use them right.

*Update 2009-05-07*


*How to adapt the spring an tailcap to use 4 x C-size cells.*

I use a length of pvc pipe thats 32 mm OD and have an ID that accepts C NiMH cells, eg. 27 mm.

I cut the spring and deanodize the inner part of the tailcap. I use lye and hot water for this, lye is toxic and highly corrosive, it will burn skin and eyes and it stinks, so be careful. Lye (sodium hydroxide) can be found in drain cleaner other such products.






Cut the spring like this, one little piece at a time until it fits in the tailcap. It's trial and error.









*This is how I made the driver for this little adventure!!!!!!*

Note that I have popualted an empty space for an additional AMC7135 chip to get 2.8A with just two boards. Even without the additional chip the soldering points are the same. There is at least one more variety of the multimode driver out there, just follow the general rule of connecting as seen here. The last in series AMC735 VDD leg (the one with a trace going to it) on the multimode connects to slave board positive center on all boards I have seen to so far.



























The 1A multimode really does give you 1.4A with an additional AMC7135 chip:







Stefan


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## StefanFS (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*

Reserved for beamshots!

The setup:






Tiablo A9, 18650 cell. Modded, but tuned to emulate the original on 2 RCR123 in output.
1D SSC P7 Mag, 1 x D LiION, UCL lens, OP alu reflector.
Tri P7 DSXOI, 3 x D LiION, UCL lens.
Tri P7 DSWOI + DSXOI, 3 x D LiION, UCL lens.
Mag 4D hotwire, 50 Watt OSRAM IRC, 12AA eneloop in fivemega holder, smooth alu reflector.


*The beamshots*

Canon G9, 4sec, ISO 100, f/2.8, daylight WB. Manual settings.

It was raining when I took the pics, not pouring down, more of a cold damp drizzle. You can see it in the beams near the lights. All lights cut through the rain/drizzle very well. The rain has effects on the pics, some straight lines are chopped up.











































Not in the composite above:






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This is not a thrower, it's a volume filler. That has no impact on the output and the ability to light up distant objects. The mega flood and large hotspot still lights up stuff well over a hundred meters away. It just lights up everything in front, and to the sides of you, for a good distance. Massive output.


How to adapt and go on..........................


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## supasizefries (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*

Wow what an exciting write up! :twothumbs I also have the tri P7 kit from DW. I will be using his buck driver. I'm still waiting for my P7's to come in. Can't wait to build this!


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## StefanFS (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*



supasizefries said:


> Wow what an exciting write up! :twothumbs I also have the tri P7 kit from DW. I will be using his buck driver as well. I'm still waiting for my P7's to come in. Can't wait to build this!


 
I'm not using DW's buck driver. If you have that (very good buck driver) the wiring is different, so please do it that way. I use a more matched driver solution and one cell less to get the same result, I'm after efficiency % in my builds.


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## supasizefries (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*

My mistake.  I wrote that with my foot in my mouth. I was aware you were using the AMC drivers as opposed to DW's buck driver. I have yet to get my hands on those drivers. I think DX has them back in stock again?


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## StefanFS (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*



supasizefries said:


> My mistake.  I wrote that with my foot in my mouth. I was aware you were using the AMC drivers as opposed to DW's buck driver. I have yet to get my hands on those drivers. I think DX has them back in stock again?


I get such stuff in a few days- a week. But that's me....


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## supasizefries (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*



StefanFS said:


> I get such stuff in a few days- a week. But that's me....



Wow, that's really fast. My last order took I think month or so to arrive. Anyway back to your build...when you soldered the wires in place after you epoxied the emitters, do the wires fit nicely with the notches that DW put at the bottom of the reflectors? I'm trying to decide whether or not to solder all the emitters together first then fit them onto the sink or do what you did. I was thinking to use the reflectors as a jig to hold the emitters in place while the AA epoxy sets. Do you think that's a bad idea?


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## Al Combs (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*

That wall shot next to your 50 watt IRC looks awesome! Can't wait for those outdoor beamshots.


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## sygyzy (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*



> Cut the legs off. I glue them to the heatsink and solder legs after that to get the best alignment in the reflectors. Wires drag leds with epoxy cures.



Can you explain what you mean by this?

Also, did the 3xP7 heatsink have notches or guides to help center each LED?

I am building a single P7 with DHS and I haven't cut any of the legs yet. The LED is epoxied on. Is there any particular reason to trim the legs in this application? Does it matter if I do it before or after I attach the LED to the HS?

Great write up!


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## Der Wichtel (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*

Wow that are a lot P7 ^^
Nice work!

I soldered the wires first because I did not have that fine wires. The copperwires I had were thick and not that flexible so it is easier to solder them first and bend the wires to the right place. 

@sygyzy: you should trim the legs otherwise it is possible that the legs could touch the reflector --> Short


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## kramer5150 (May 4, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*

Nice mod...
I use that 3x7135 DC board in my P60 modules and its a good one. The 4th 7135 driver can be easily added for ~1350-1400mah. Nice thing about it is its low mode is a very high frequency PWM that I find only barely noticeable when viewing really fast moving objects.

I bought 3 boards and pulled the driver ICs off one and transplanted them onto the other two.


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## download (May 5, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*



StefanFS said:


> It's bright




:wow: It looks really bright compare to 50W IRC. :goodjob:


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## StefanFS (May 5, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*



download said:


> :wow: It looks really bright compare to 50W IRC. :goodjob:


 
It's actually less bright, but so close to the wall it seems brighter. It's also very, very white since that light has three cold white DSXOI emitters. But it's a lot of light. My other Mags with one P7 or MC E look weak compared with this.


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## ergotelis (May 5, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*

Stefan, first of all very nice work!
Secondly, do you think that 2DSWOJ and a DSWOI should work fine all together?


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## StefanFS (May 5, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 DIY courtesy of Der Wichtel!*



ergotelis said:


> Stefan, first of all very nice work!
> Secondly, do you think that 2DSWOJ and a DSWOI should work fine all together?


 
If you use the DSWOI with the driver and the two DSWOJ "free" I see no problems. As long as you drive it with LiION you'll get good runtimes.


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## StefanFS (May 6, 2009)

*Re: 3 x SSC P7 Mag DIY with Der Wichtel tri P7 heatsink!*

I've posted beamshots at various distances in Post #2.


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## download (May 6, 2009)

:wow: Wonderful beamshots. 
I do see more details from Tri SSC.  Just use half of the power of 50W IRC. 
:rock: :rock: :rock:


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## supasizefries (May 6, 2009)

Wow, some really amazing beamshots! :twothumbs I just completed my Tri-P7 Mag last night. Man, this thing is so bright! With a ceiling bounce it illuminates my living room much more than my floor standing halogen lamp. I hope to get around to posting my build and some beam shots as well sometime soon.


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## olav (May 6, 2009)

*Brilliant pictures Stefan*, but are they manipulated - how come do you have leaves on the tree and we don't :mecry:?


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## StefanFS (May 6, 2009)

olav said:


> *Brilliant pictures Stefan*, but are they manipulated - how come do you have leaves on the tree and we don't :mecry:?


 
We were in Prague last week and they had what is best described as Swedish high summer, in april! Climate can really suck sometimes.. Say hello to the mosquitoes, they should wake up soon in your part of the woods


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## Eirik (May 28, 2009)

hi stefanfs

does 4 
* Protected Single D Li-ion (32650/32600) SKU: S004141
fit in a 4-D mag?

eirik
*


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## StefanFS (May 29, 2009)

Eirik said:


> hi stefanfs
> 
> does 4
> *Protected Single D Li-ion (32650/32600) SKU: S004141*
> ...


 
No, not a chance.


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## ergotelis (Jun 1, 2009)

Stefan, have you made any kind of mods to reduce resistance in a MAg? Is it working fine at such high currents?Thanks!


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## StefanFS (Jun 2, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> Stefan, have you made any kind of mods to reduce resistance in a MAg? Is it working fine at such high currents?Thanks!


 
The tower is removed and led neg. is soldered directly to the neg. tab in the switch, same thing with the led pos. wire. Standard for installing a heatsink in a Maglite. If you wish even lower resistance you could solder a wire from the bottom tab on the switch to battery positive. But resistance is low at higher voltages as in these, 12V and up. A Mag switch can take a lot of current. So far there are no problems with my two lights, I don't really expect any switch problems. There are quite a few opinions about switches concerning current and resistance, and facts are hard to find.


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## Eirik (Jun 5, 2009)

hi
a link to the 1A multimode plz.. is it dx?

eirik


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## StefanFS (Jun 5, 2009)

Eirik said:


> hi
> a link to the 1A multimode plz.. is it dx?
> 
> eirik


 
SKU: S004659 or SKU: S004660 on KaiDomain. Search for "two level" and you'll find them.


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## Changchung (Jun 15, 2009)

I just finish mine, I am really happy with it, I am using this driver;

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845

With the 2 Leds in serie technique


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## StefanFS (Jun 25, 2009)

I tried it as a replacement for the car lights. Short & long yellow car lights are 55+55+90+90 watt. So this shi**y 3D 3 x SSC P7 Mag impresses me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HbLCQHSt5k

It's jumpy and uninteresting, that's because it's difficult to drive with a camera on the steering wheel and a flashlight up through the sunroof.


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## Changchung (Jun 26, 2009)

It's jumpy and uninteresting, that's because it's difficult to drive with a camera on the steering wheel and a flashlight up through the sunroof.[/QUOTE]

Hahahahha lovecpf


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## jar3ds (Jun 29, 2009)

is there any donut with these reflectors?


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## ergotelis (Jun 29, 2009)

jar3ds said:


> is there any donut with these reflectors?



somehow yes.But because of the triple setup kit you won't care about that.Trust me.
I completed mine 2 weeks ago and tested it in total darkness.Damn this is amazing! A friend of mine saw the P100A2 eagletac and said "wow,where did you find that thing!" He then saw the 3xp7 and didn't know what to say! I can say that it is at least 2000+ torch lumen. If you want to build one, better buy a finned head for better heatsinking, it gets rapidly hot!After 5min the head was almost untouchable!Very hot!
I love that mod, just you have to be a bit experienced to make all components work together fine.


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## jar3ds (Jun 30, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> somehow yes.But because of the triple setup kit you won't care about that.Trust me.
> I completed mine 2 weeks ago and tested it in total darkness.Damn this is amazing! A friend of mine saw the P100A2 eagletac and said "wow,where did you find that thing!" He then saw the 3xp7 and didn't know what to say! I can say that it is at least 2000+ torch lumen. If you want to build one, better buy a finned head for better heatsinking, it gets rapidly hot!After 5min the head was almost untouchable!Very hot!
> I love that mod, just you have to be a bit experienced to make all components work together fine.



thanks for the reponse... i was trying to find a way to get a 3xp7 w/ the BOOM! reflectors from Fred... but they are different sizes and would need a different heatsink... those reflectors are supposed to get rid of the donut...

I know what you mean with it being a tri led light that the donut 'issue' isn't really an issue at all... 

interesting comment about the heat issues... when I had a run of HAIII mags ran a while ago i chose not to get fins because from what I read at the time having the extra mass was more important than the fins... 

i was under the impression that the only way fins really provide benefit is with a CONSTANT & decent amount of air flow over the fins... (such as a radiator / CPU sink with a fan)...

I'm curious to hear everyones thoughts


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## Der Wichtel (Jun 30, 2009)

you can see an underexposured wallshot in this thread
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/228206


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## ergotelis (Jun 30, 2009)

jar3ds said:


> thanks for the reponse... i was trying to find a way to get a 3xp7 w/ the BOOM! reflectors from Fred... but they are different sizes and would need a different heatsink... those reflectors are supposed to get rid of the donut...
> 
> I know what you mean with it being a tri led light that the donut 'issue' isn't really an issue at all...
> 
> ...



Because i have a p7 mag too, these reflectors won't provide that big donut hole.It is still there but no way close to what a p7 mag has, it will be less noticeable. Outside it won't bother you at all.For comparison , A P7 mag with stock reflector, has a donut hole that bothers me outside. 
Better buy one with finned head. Such a massive light output is supposed to be used outside where almost all the time there is some air moving around.Even moving yourself while walking some air passes through the fins of the mag. You will have better heat conduction for sure.


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## StefanFS (Jun 30, 2009)

jar3ds,

to my knowledge and eyes there are no evidence to indicate a "doughnut" or "hole" with my two lights that have these reflectors. There are, however, artefacts in the beam, mostly in the area that could be called a hotspot. But you need to grasp the nature of what the output with this type of flashlight will be; it's immense and will fill a warehouse with light or light up a country road for hundreds of metres. So the artefacts are inconsequential. 

There are some beamshots in the link that show the abscence of "doughnuts":

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/234740


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## javiole (Aug 22, 2009)

great work Stefan!! I always enjoy your descriptions very much.
I was planing to do a mag tri-p7 for my bike but i wanted a bit more throw than that offered by DW reflectors.
So i thought of using this one http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18841, making three 9mm holes at the base to accomodate the leds, as it was a clover, i.e using just one bigger and deeper reflector for the 3-p7.
This reflector is 30mm depth, and its base seem big enough for the 3 p7(close together they need about 23mm diameter circle). As for the heatsink I would use a 32.5mm diameter, 30mm long aluminium cilinder inserted in the mag body (the reflector will go about 10mm inside the mag body).
Do you think this will provide more throw that the design from DW?
cheers


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## StefanFS (Aug 23, 2009)

javiole said:


> great work Stefan!! I always enjoy your descriptions very much.
> I was planing to do a mag tri-p7 for my bike but i wanted a bit more throw than that offered by DW reflectors.
> So i thought of using this one http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18841, making three 9mm holes at the base to accomodate the leds, as it was a clover, i.e using just one bigger and deeper reflector for the 3-p7.
> This reflector is 30mm depth, and its base seem big enough for the 3 p7(close together they need about 23mm diameter circle). As for the heatsink I would use a 32.5mm diameter, 30mm long aluminium cilinder inserted in the mag body (the reflector will go about 10mm inside the mag body).
> ...


 
If you can get that together it would surely give you much more throw. A Mag type reflector can throw hundreds of meters (which your option is, kind of, with the 53 mm diameter) with SSC P7 emitters. Please post some pics of your build.


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## LightIsBright (Sep 4, 2009)

omg wow ! this is amazing  starting my very first custom light soon and i have to say you have inspired me to think big  <3

Thanks


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## ergotelis (Sep 4, 2009)

javiole said:


> great work Stefan!! I always enjoy your descriptions very much.
> I was planing to do a mag tri-p7 for my bike but i wanted a bit more throw than that offered by DW reflectors.
> So i thought of using this one http://dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.18841, making three 9mm holes at the base to accomodate the leds, as it was a clover, i.e using just one bigger and deeper reflector for the 3-p7.
> This reflector is 30mm depth, and its base seem big enough for the 3 p7(close together they need about 23mm diameter circle). As for the heatsink I would use a 32.5mm diameter, 30mm long aluminium cilinder inserted in the mag body (the reflector will go about 10mm inside the mag body).
> ...



I have this reflector. Even with one p7 it doesn't work that good. It works well with one mc-e. But your idea is not that good, i don't think it will work.


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## javiole (Sep 6, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> I have this reflector. Even with one p7 it doesn't work that good. It works well with one mc-e. But your idea is not that good, i don't think it will work.


 
Thanks for the advise. I have everything almost setup, so I will give it a go. Just waiting for DX to post the reflector, already 2 weeks since I ordered but nothing arrived yet. if you don't use it, would you sale it to me?  cheers, Javi


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## ergotelis (Sep 6, 2009)

javiole said:


> Thanks for the advise. I have everything almost setup, so I will give it a go. Just waiting for DX to post the reflector, already 2 weeks since I ordered but nothing arrived yet. if you don't use it, would you sale it to me?  cheers, Javi



Well currently i use it to one of my flashlights with a single cree led. I didn't explained well why your mod wouldn't work, because you will be having horrible beam profile. It won't focus that good. Better buy the reflector that has 3 seperate reflectors, this one 11921. It would work fine!


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## javiole (Sep 7, 2009)

ergotelis said:


> Well currently i use it to one of my flashlights with a single cree led. I didn't explained well why your mod wouldn't work, because you will be having horrible beam profile. It won't focus that good. Better buy the reflector that has 3 seperate reflectors, this one 11921. It would work fine!


 

yes, I've got that one. I tried it with the PES2 heatsink. It needed some sanding to put into the maglite but worked fine. I'm looking for more throw, so a deeper reflector. I thought the one I mentioned in the previous post would provide it. Thanks again for the info though


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## javiole (Sep 24, 2009)

Stefan, do you really need to pass throw the heatsink hole 4 cables? it isn't enough 3 as in this photo? the red cable would go from the negative of the two p7 in serial to the positive of the single p7 which at the same time feed the driver v+.


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## bshanahan14rulz (Sep 24, 2009)

javiole, He is using a novel idea to avoid having to get a more powerful driver. Download proposed it and there is a link to it in the original post. Take a look, it's a neat solution!


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## javiole (Sep 24, 2009)

yes, i know. I'm not saying that it is wrong, just you could save one cable going throw the heatsink. If you check Download original diagram, the + in the driver is fed by the terminal coming from the 2 serial p7 and so is the + of the single led. With Download permission I have modified his drawing in a way that looks more clear to me, but if I am wrong please let me know.








bshanahan14rulz said:


> javiole, He is using a novel idea to avoid having to get a more powerful driver. Download proposed it and there is a link to it in the original post. Take a look, it's a neat solution!


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## bshanahan14rulz (Sep 24, 2009)

if the driver is controlled on the ground side of the load (which, now that you mention it, I think it is), then yes, it does look like you are correct.


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## CampingLED (Sep 25, 2009)

javiole said:


> yes, i know. I'm not saying that it is wrong, just you could save one cable going throw the heatsink. If you check Download original diagram, the + in the driver is fed by the terminal coming from the 2 serial p7 and so is the + of the single led. With Download permission I have modified his drawing in a way that looks more clear to me, but if I am wrong please let me know.


 
You are correct that you can save one wire going through the heat sink. With a pure 8 x 7135 driver (no additional components) it should be fine since the + is common and the - has an in and out.


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## rizky_p (Sep 29, 2009)

has anyone tried sputtering on DW reflector?

I though my Penta Cree Q5 was bright well until you tried triple P7.


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## StefanFS (Sep 30, 2009)

javiole said:


> Stefan, do you really need to pass throw the heatsink hole 4 cables? it isn't enough 3 as in this photo? the red cable would go from the negative of the two p7 in serial to the positive of the single p7 which at the same time feed the driver v+.


 
I thought it was more didactic to do it that way. It doesn't really matter which way you do it. It's the same story with my sandwiches based on AMC7135 drivers, you can remove some wire with the same result.


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## victor87 (Oct 3, 2009)

Hi,

I'm new here and and hope that some specilist may help me.

I want to build a new lamp for my bike based on a triple p7 mag-mod.
I will buy the heatsink with refectors from "Der Wichtel" and want to build this driver solution.

Which parts do you recommend for six 18650 l-ion batteries in parrallel.

Perfect would be a three mode driver.

Thanks for your help and cheers, Victor


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## LightIsBright (Oct 3, 2009)

Hey Victor, you need to upload your images to a image host such as tinypic.com or imageshack.us  

Regards


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## victor87 (Oct 4, 2009)

Hi,

sorry for that.

here is the correct image





For me it is important that the light is stable for two or three hours.

A driver with three modes: low, medium and high would be perfect.

There is a 16-mode driver on DX with 4 groups and one group is seperated like this, but I dont' know how user-friendly this driver is. (SKU 7612)

A solution with only 2 board would be fine.

Thanks a lot, Victor


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## victor87 (Oct 4, 2009)

sorry double post


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## Mettee (Oct 4, 2009)

*For me it is important that the light is stable for two or three hours.

A driver with three modes: low, medium and high would be perfect.

There is a 16-mode driver on DX with 4 groups and one group is seperated like this, but I dont' know how user-friendly this driver is. (SKU 7612)

A solution with only 2 board would be fine.

Thanks a lot, Victor* 



The 16 mode is easy to use...

on the low mode it will flash, if you turn the light off immediately after the flash it will shift to the next mode of the three the board has. within that mode if you bump the switch it moves up to low, med, high, etc. 

with this light, the same as stefan built with AW IMR C's I saw 40 minutes(guess) of runtime on high. so 2 hours is a no go unless you use a lower power setting. just a heads up.

I would say get the 16 mode, you can use the low, med, high mode and if you want something diff you have it. unless you absolutely have to know what mode you are in and you depend on it. the 5 mode will be easier to use. either will be good, you just have to get used to switching the modes.


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## victor87 (Oct 5, 2009)

Hi, thanks for the answer yet.

I think i will try some different set ups to find the best for me.

Here is my list, and if I got wrong please correct me.
I allready have 6 TrustFire Protected 18650 Lithium Battery 
So 2 hours, for shure not the whole time on full power, should work.

Drivers:

1400mA Regulated Circuit
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1886

5-Mode 1000mA
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190

3-Mode from Kai
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1694

If I ad an additional AMC7135 chip to the multimode driver than I get 2.8A, like in Stefans "adventure".

To protect against overheating the Mag-head will get some cooling fins and a swich that cuts of at 70°C 

Cheers, Victor


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## Mettee (Oct 5, 2009)

think 1 battery(lion) per led(P7). you wont be able to run the light off all six, I assumed you meant that correct me if I am wrong.

with that 3 and 5 mode it doesnt look like there is space for the additional amc chip on the board. although the pics could be the wrong ones or just a generic one they added for the product. 

Stefan have you seen a 3 or 5 mode that will do 1400ma


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## victor87 (Oct 6, 2009)

Hi,

I'm not sure if we mean the same.
I want to use 3 pairs of paralell connected 18650.

The V shouldn't change, one pair has than 5600 mA and still 3,6 V or are I'm wrong?

If I don't find a 3-mode or 5-mode driver with an free socket, do I have to use two 1A boards and a 1A driver?


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## Mettee (Oct 6, 2009)

yes that battery config would work...

as far as the boards....

a 3 or 5 mode with two additional amc 7135 1400ma would work, from what I can tell the 3 or 5 mode boards are at least 1050ma. As Stefan showed in the past in his first thread on single P7 lights, you would remove one amc chip from each 1400ma board taking it to 1050 or so. so...a 1050 multi mode, and two additional 1050 amc boards(a little over 3A). a littel overdriven but I think that is ok from my past experience using this same set up.


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## nofear87 (Feb 18, 2016)

Anyone has a link to the Seoul P7 Reflectors? Thx


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