# Malkoff P7 Direct Drive Drop-In (Photos)



## gsnorm (Dec 1, 2008)

I called Gene and asked him about the possibility of a P7 drop-in that I could use in my Surefire C2 (bored to fit 18650's). I found myself carrying the MTE-P7 to work more frequently due to the sheer output it provides and really wanted that output in the C2 which happens to be my favorite flashlight body. Gene was not completely satisfied with the beam quality of the P7 but I didn't care about that - I just wanted a ton of light for close up illumination of machinery. Direct Drive was fine by me as well so no concerns about enough room for regulation circuitry in the heatsink. Gene really came through - the Malkoff P7 Direct Drive drop-in is exactly what I was looking for. :thumbsup:

From the outside it looks just like an M30 & M60 







A different story from the business end





Close up. OP reflector.





I apologize for the upcoming subpar beamshots (maybe Santa will bring me a new camera!) L-R: 1)Malkoff P7 in SF C2 & 18650 2)Malkoff M30 in Leefbody & 18650 3)MTE SSC P7 & 18650 4)Malkoff M60 in Leefbody & 2x 18650





From the front





Up first the M60 (the bicycle is 15 feet from the camera & flashlight)





The M30





The Malkoff P7. Definitely a floodbeam with no real hotspot. Pulls about 2.5 amps.





MTE SSC P7. The Malkoff P7 has a little wider coverage and less hotspot compared to the MTE. Otherwise very similar.





And the good old Surefire P91 (2x 18650)






Some Additional Comparisons

Malkoff M30





Malkoff P7





Surefire L4





Dereelight Q5





Fenix P2D Q5





Surefire E2DL


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## Monocrom (Dec 1, 2008)

Even if Gene was not completely happy with the beam, it still looks great. 

Thanks for sharing.


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## nohcho (Dec 1, 2008)

i got a question, is M30 as bright as M 60 and wil a single18560 drive it ok and for how long?


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## djblank87 (Dec 1, 2008)

Interesting, thanks for sharing.


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## MrGman (Dec 1, 2008)

Can you measure the current draw of the new Malkoff P7 on a digital ammeter? Need to know what its pulling on a freshly charged battery. Thanks, G.


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## gsnorm (Dec 1, 2008)

MrGman said:


> Can you measure the current draw of the new Malkoff P7 on a digital ammeter? Need to know what its pulling on a freshly charged battery. Thanks, G.


 
Mr.G - between 2.8 & 2.9 amps on a freshly charged protected AW18650 at 4.2 volts.


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## Optik49 (Dec 1, 2008)

I wonder how that would compare to a M60F?


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## brighterisbetter (Dec 1, 2008)




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## gsnorm (Dec 1, 2008)

Optik49 said:


> I wonder how that would compare to a M60F?


 
I asked Gene the same question and he said that the P7 blows the M60F away.


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## Optik49 (Dec 1, 2008)

That’s great news. I wonder if he will start making these on regular bases or even for Mags.


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## kosPap (Dec 1, 2008)

damn gsnorm you gonna cost me money...

any reason an AW 17670 cell wont' work?


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## Monocrom (Dec 1, 2008)

Optik49 came up with a great question.

Did Gene indicate if he had plans to make the P7 available to others, on a regular basis?


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## rockz4532 (Dec 1, 2008)

how much did it cost you? i might replace the SS Ld01 i had on there:tinfoil:


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## brighterisbetter (Dec 1, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Did Gene indicate if he had plans to make the P7 available to others, on a regular basis?


+1


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## gsnorm (Dec 1, 2008)

kosPap said:


> damn gsnorm you gonna cost me money...
> 
> any reason an AW 17670 cell wont' work?


 
(Someone please correct me if I have this wrong) I just measured a 2.9 amp draw so since 2C would be 3.2 amps for a 1600mAh AW17670 protected cell, you should be ok. Just less runtime.


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## metlarules (Dec 1, 2008)

It would be pretty cool to stick this in a 3p and run it with one of AW's IMR 16340's.


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## gsnorm (Dec 1, 2008)

Optik49 said:


> That’s great new. I wonder if he will start making these on regular bases or even for Mags.


 
I think when Gene achieves the desired beam quality he will. On a white wall up close you can see some beam imperfections but in actual use it's an impressive wall of light from a rather small package.


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## txgp17 (Dec 1, 2008)

awesome


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## waddup (Dec 1, 2008)

i prefer the p7 malkoff beam to the rest, 

im not a fan of 12" diameter 450 lumen hotspots from 30 feet.

wall of light for me.


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## sims2k (Dec 1, 2008)

I am interested too...


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## bigchelis (Dec 1, 2008)

Dear God, I been hoping for Gene to make something like this. I have a P7 from ebay that works occasionally to never. With Genes top notch drop-ins this is the answer to my prayers. 

:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs GENE:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs


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## const451 (Dec 1, 2008)

I want one too...... What is the expected run time on 2x primaries?


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## gsnorm (Dec 1, 2008)

const451 said:


> I want one too...... What is the expected run time on 2x primaries?


 

You might want to check with Gene on the acceptable input voltage range on an unregulated P7. 2x primaries (6+ volts) might be too high - not sure.


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## etc (Dec 2, 2008)

Out of these, MTE SSC P7 looks best. 

Mal P7 looks too floody to my taste.


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## Agent_Jaws (Dec 2, 2008)

Optik49 said:


> That’s great new. I wonder if he will start making these on regular bases or even for Mags.


 
+1 to mag drop-in, I would like to shove a P7 in mine but I'm too lazy to mod it myself


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## jerry i h (Dec 2, 2008)

Hmmm...veeery interesting. I wonder how it compares to EL's EDC-P7? I have it and love. It powers a P7 from a 18650 (I am using AW's) in a body that is an entire custom lathe job that weighs in at 9 oz. What was the total $$$ for drop-in and host?


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## jimmy1970 (Dec 2, 2008)

I don't know how Gene can keep up with all these different pill options. Good for him to have all the extra business though.

James...


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## waddup (Dec 2, 2008)

whats a good 'cheap' host for one of the posted malkoff dropins?

and where do i buy it?


and can it have 3 modes please, low,med,high


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## bigchelis (Dec 5, 2008)

gsnorm said:


> Mr.G - between 2.8 & 2.9 amps on a freshly charged protected AW18650 at 4.2 volts.


 
With the safely protected AW18650 at 4.2v how long does it light up for????

My ebay SSC P7 that runs on a single 18650 runs for 50 minutes exactly.


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## gsnorm (Dec 7, 2008)

A few more comparison shots have been added to the original post.


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## nakahoshi (Dec 7, 2008)

Awesome pictures, thanks for the beam shots!

The second beam shot of the Malkoff P7 shows a cut-off from spill. Is this apparent in use? My m30 has seams to have have no spill cut off. 

Does your C2 get too hot to hold after 20 minutes or so?

Any Idea on run time?

And, One last thing, what are the beam imperfections? Are you talking about seeing the dies in the beam on a white wall or is it something else?

This is looking awesome. 

-Bobby


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## divine (Dec 7, 2008)

That would be nice in a 3P with a IMR16340.


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## dano (Dec 7, 2008)

What's the advantage? To my eyes, the P91 incan has very similar output to the P7, albeit with incan. tint.

Running the P7 with that amp draw (IMO) negates any advantage the LED would have, i.e. runtime.

Just wondering...


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## gsnorm (Dec 8, 2008)

dano said:


> What's the advantage? To my eyes, the P91 incan has very similar output to the P7, albeit with incan. tint.
> 
> Running the P7 with that amp draw (IMO) negates any advantage the LED would have, i.e. runtime.
> 
> Just wondering...


 

I'm a big fan of the P91 and yup, the outputs are similar.

How much runtime can you get from a P91 in a 6P/C2 sized body with rechargeables? I haven't yet tested the P7+18650 for runtime but it should be ~30 to 45 minutes or more. According to MD's LithiumIon reference, 2x17670's will light up the P91 for 31 minutes while 2x18650 will provide 43 minutes. Much larger bodies there -I would rather have the C2 on my belt.

If I drop the P91 & P7 lights onto a concrete floor which will keep going and which will end up on injured reserve? :naughty:


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## gsnorm (Dec 8, 2008)

nakahoshi said:


> Awesome pictures, thanks for the beam shots!
> 
> The second beam shot of the Malkoff P7 shows a cut-off from spill. Is this apparent in use? My m30 has seams to have have no spill cut off.
> 
> ...


 

Unlike the M60/M30, there is an abrupt spill cutoff with this P7. The beam is basically a huge circle of mostly consistent flood with only slightly diminishing intensity near the outer perimeter. The only beam imperfections are seeing the dies on a white wall up close but they are barely visible.

Haven't tested the runtime yet.


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## Yoda4561 (Dec 8, 2008)

In the pictures at least, the P7's spill is much much wider than the p91's. Still, it doesn't look like there's 3x the light there. Someone send it to Gman for integrating sphere results!!! 

**edit: I take it back, it looks about right, it's really noticable when looking at the detail on the motorcycle. Definately a pure flooder if I've ever seen one.


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## Gunnerboy (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks to *gsnorm* for letting us know this was available. :thumbsup:
Thanks to *Gene & Cathy* for building me one of these. :twothumbs

This is the LED module I've been waiting for: a pure-flood with serious output for my 6P.

I can just point in a general direction and completely light up the whole area without seeing ugly rings or the annoying "follow the bouncing ball" hotspot. Now this is a room-sweeper!

Cheers,
Gary


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## bigchelis (Dec 18, 2008)

Gunnerboy said:


> Thanks to *gsnorm* for letting us know this was available. :thumbsup:
> Thanks to *Gene & Cathy* for building me one of these. :twothumbs
> 
> This is the LED module I've been waiting for: a pure-flood with serious output for my 6P.
> ...


 

I just heard from Gene today that he had a couple P7 drop-ins. I paypal him and he said it will ship out tommorrow.
If any of you are interested, he probably has some more left unless they are already spoken for.


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## MarNav1 (Dec 18, 2008)

divine said:


> That would be nice in a 3P with a IMR16340.


Too much draw for that little cell. It won't work unfortunately.


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## Yoda4561 (Dec 18, 2008)

IMR16340 should handle it fine, you'll only get like 10 minutes out of it though.


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## MarNav1 (Dec 18, 2008)

Maybe so, I don't think I would try it. Stick with the bigger cells with this much draw, it's alot easier on the cells. I'm not sure if the smaller cells could take that for long. I'd ask AW or tvodrd. Or check the battery threads. Don't want to read another explosion story.


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## txgp17 (Dec 18, 2008)

gsnorm,
Can you give some details of the boring process to accept 18650's??.

I have a slew of Surefire's I'd like to do this too.


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## Gunnerboy (Dec 18, 2008)

MARNAV1 said:


> Maybe so, I don't think I would try it. Stick with the bigger cells with this much draw, it's alot easier on the cells. I'm not sure if the smaller cells could take that for long. I'd ask AW or tvodrd. Or check the battery threads. Don't want to read another explosion story.




I think AW would probably tell you 2.5A for his IMR16340 is no problem. That would be only about 4.5C and the cell has a maximum continuous discharge rate of 8C. Plus, the man himself is using this setup.

Still, I agree with using the bigger cells, but only for better runtime. I plan to eventually use AW's 2500mAH 18650.


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## MarNav1 (Dec 18, 2008)

OK great. As long as we don't have any "boom"!


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## Yoda4561 (Dec 18, 2008)

There's no boom with IMR cells, they're a safe lithium ion chemistry.


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## nakahoshi (Dec 18, 2008)

Mine should be in the mail-box tomorrow. 

what is it like the very first time you light it up? :huh:

Should be awesome.
-Bobby


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## toby_pra (Dec 19, 2008)

Very nice beamshots! :naughty:


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## Policetacteam (Dec 19, 2008)

gsnorm,

I'm still fairly new to the LED's...what is the purpose of the larger dark ring around the edge of the bezel? Does the P7 drop in basically have a bright flood area with no hot spot!?! Very interesting. I wonder if Gene can make something similar for my 8AX Commander which uses an X80 lamp module. That would work perfect!


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## Yoda4561 (Dec 19, 2008)

Gene specializes in surefire P60 style and maglight dropins, he may be able to accomadate you but you'd need to email and ask  There are plenty of modders on the forums though who do that sort of thing on a regular basis, though I haven't heard of anyone do a commander mod specifically. Basically the dark ring is black epoxy that's used to stabilize the reflector and protect the internal electronics. It's not normally visible on the M60 as the normal optic fits without a gap. With a P7 you need to use a different reflector, there aren't really any suitable optics with the beam quality Gene requires.


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## gsnorm (Dec 19, 2008)

Policetacteam said:


> gsnorm,
> 
> I'm still fairly new to the LED's...what is the purpose of the larger dark ring around the edge of the bezel? Does the P7 drop in basically have a bright flood area with no hot spot!?! Very interesting. I wonder if Gene can make something similar for my 8AX Commander which uses an X80 lamp module. That would work perfect!


 
As Yoda4561 stated the black ring appears to be epoxy that the reflector is set in. There is a hotspot but it is barely visible and you can really only see it if you shine it on a whitewall. I would suggest that you phone or e-mail Gene and ask him if he can build you a drop-in for your 8AX.


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## gsnorm (Dec 19, 2008)

txgp17 said:


> gsnorm,
> Can you give some details of the boring process to accept 18650's??.
> 
> I have a slew of Surefire's I'd like to do this too.


 
There was a member who was boring flashlight bodies for a very good price at this thread:https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/214459
but it looks like he has discontinued the service. Maybe you could pm him and see if he could do something for you. For me - not having access to a lathe, I used a drill motor and emery cloth with the flashlight body in a soft jawed vise. Crude, I know but it got the job done.


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## pee10755 (Dec 21, 2008)

I use the C2 as my backup light and wanted to increase it's power. This looks like the perfect set up. How did you get the light to accept a single 18650? I would like to do the same to mine.


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## Monocrom (Dec 21, 2008)

pee10755 said:


> I use the C2 as my backup light and wanted to increase it's power. This looks like the perfect set up. How did you get the light to accept a single 18650? I would like to do the same to mine.


 
You have to bore out the body, or get someone to do it for you.


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## toby_pra (Jan 5, 2009)

Is it possible to order the Malkoff P7 already?


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## Monocrom (Jan 5, 2009)

toby_pra said:


> Is it possible to order the Malkoff P7 already?


 
If you want one badly enough, contact Gene. I'm sure he'll sell you one. But it won't likely be the pinnacle of performance that Gene is trying to reach. As far as I know, he's still not entirely happy with how the P7 performes in one of his handmade creations.


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## 270winchester (Jan 5, 2009)

Yoda4561 said:


> IMR16340 should handle it fine, you'll only get like 10 minutes out of it though.



I knew I bought a 3P a few years ago on CPF for 35 dollars for a reason!!

just waiting for the drop in now......


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## KDOG3 (Jan 5, 2009)

Has Gene tried the P7 thru his 8 degree optic yet? I wonder how the beam would look.


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## SimpleIsGood229 (Jan 5, 2009)

KDOG3 said:


> Has Gene tried the P7 thru his 8 degree optic yet? I wonder how the beam would look.


Is the optic large enough to cover the P7? Unless I'm imagining things, I think the P7 has a larger diameter than a single-die LED.


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## 270winchester (Jan 5, 2009)

I got mine today, just now. 

I put it in a 3P and used a regular R123(waiting for the new high-discharge from lighthound). This is the replacement for the L4 if there ever was one, a massive flood that just lights everything up.

I'll wait until my high-drain R123s get here for a thorough test.


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## jimmy1970 (Jan 5, 2009)

270winchester said:


> I got mine today, just now.
> 
> I put it in a 3P and used a regular R123(waiting for the new high-discharge from lighthound). This is the replacement for the L4 if there ever was one, a massive flood that just lights everything up.
> 
> I'll wait until my high-drain R123s get here for a thorough test.


That test you spoke of would be highly appreciated! How much is the P7 Malkoff by the way?

James...


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## 270winchester (Jan 5, 2009)

a little more than the M60s, for exact figure I would suggest email Gene, they are very quick in responding to questions.




jimmy1970 said:


> That test you spoke of would be highly appreciated! How much is the P7 Malkoff by the way?
> 
> James...


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## [email protected] (Jan 5, 2009)

kosPap said:


> damn gsnorm you gonna cost me money...
> 
> any reason an AW 17670 cell wont' work?


I'd say it was to do with the capacity and safe 'draw' rate of the 18650 Vs. 17670 :thumbsup:


FWIW CPF's DocD did this way back in July '08 more details @ P60 drop in with P7


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## nakahoshi (Jan 5, 2009)

I have had mine for a few weeks now and it still wow's me every time i turn it on outside. Indoors it just lights up everything in the room. 

Would the new 18650 cells from AW (safe chem) perform better then regular protected 18650 cells with a direct drive P7 (Would i get a brighter light with reduced runtime?) 
-Bobby


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## 270winchester (Jan 7, 2009)

I got the batteries(IMR R123 and new AW 17670)

I can't provide a beam shot since it's not a module built for beamshots, and I'm not just being snarky here since it is a light-everything-up kind of light. 

One suggestion I can offer is that who ever uses it should clean his/her bezel's inside as much as one can since this module unlike the M60 does not have a glass lens built in, and we don't want to lose any output to contamination.

The light's output is half way between my M60 and my 1-C C-cell P7 light from a rough ceiling bounce test. I can't stress enough that this light is a flood light(within a cone of course) so don't expect a monster-hotspot at 50 yards. But I will say that within 50 yards EVERYthing is lit up.

It's not cheap and not for everyone but I appreciate usefulness of a close-to medium range light so this drop-in is perfect, since I hate a blinding spot when my eyes are used to darkness.

Hope this helps. The picture in the first post is great and no more needs to be added.:twothumbs


jimmy1970 said:


> That test you spoke of would be highly appreciated!


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## BUZ (Jan 8, 2009)

Three emails to them and no response for two weeks!


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## 270winchester (Jan 8, 2009)

which email? and did you mention your CPF name?



BUZ said:


> Three emails to them and no response for two weeks!


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## BUZ (Jan 8, 2009)

270winchester said:


> which email? and did you mention your CPF name?




[email protected] 

Yes I mentioned my CPF name in all three, oh well.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 8, 2009)

BUZ said:


> [email protected]
> 
> Yes I mentioned my CPF name in all three, oh well.



Buz, give him a call. Phone # is on his website. Please be proactive. :twothumbs

Bill

btw, he will be at the SHOT show soon, so will not be shipping after the 10th, for awhile.

Bill


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## Gene43 (Jan 8, 2009)

Yes, call me.

Thanks, Gene


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## Optik49 (Jan 9, 2009)

:laughing::laughing:


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## Shrigg (Jan 10, 2009)

This just what i need for mountain bike lighting. I emailed/called you too Gene


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## DHart (Jan 10, 2009)

What a cool mod... exactly what I want for my older Z2 Combat. For a close to medium range defense light I want to see what's all around without a hot spot, so this looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing the information!


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## Shrigg (Jan 11, 2009)

nakahoshi said:


> I have had mine for a few weeks now and it still wow's me every time i turn it on outside. Indoors it just lights up everything in the room.
> 
> Would the new 18650 cells from AW (safe chem) perform better then regular protected 18650 cells with a direct drive P7 (Would i get a brighter light with reduced runtime?)
> -Bobby




Gene mentioned the AW IMR cells favorably when I spoke with him today. I thought he said the runtime was longer than with the 2200mah protected AW 18650's. Does that sound possible due to the different chemistry or did I hear that wrong? 

I must admit I was pretty dazzled to be speaking with Mr. Malkoff himself and there was a lot of tech talk flying about that I'm not yet familiar with. I'm still a newbie but definitely full-blown flashaholic (this is my 4th post, and I'm already talking to Gene Malkoff and building my own P7 Surefire ) 

Either way, he's sending me his P7 drop in along with the crush washer which allows correct fit in the Solarforce host. Next stop for me is lighthound for the 18650 Solarforce L2 host and some AW batteries. Can someone confirm which of the AW batteries will give me the best runtime? I'd also be curious to hear if there is a brightness difference as nahoshi asked above...

Thanks,
Darren


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## bigchelis (Jan 11, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> Gene mentioned the AW IMR cells favorably when I spoke with him today. I thought he said the runtime was longer than with the 2200mah protected AW 18650's. Does that sound possible due to the different chemistry or did I hear that wrong?
> 
> I must admit I was pretty dazzled to be speaking with Mr. Malkoff himself and there was a lot of tech talk flying about that I'm not yet familiar with. I'm still a newbie but definitely full-blown flashaholic (this is my 4th post, and I'm already talking to Gene Malkoff and building my own P7 Surefire )
> 
> ...


 

Congrats on the P7 purchase. After getting my first P7 from Gene I felt I needed more. I hate to think about the fate of the M60/M30 now that I have the P7's. I have AW 18650's and they run fine, but I also use the good old cheap DX 18650 solarforce protected cell and so far after about 10 charges no issues. Good luck with the P7 and choosing the right 18650's, but wait till you see the beam on that Malkoff Drop-in


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## Shrigg (Jan 11, 2009)

Yes it really sounds great for my mountain bike night rides and even for weapon mounting. Gene said it compares to having a 100 watt incandescent light bulb shining ahead of you as far as the light output.

He also said it would run on RCR's, albeit with short 15 to 20 minute runtime. Imagine the fun little EDC shocker light that could be made in a single RCR format! Can someone point me to a 6p compatible single CR123 host (besides the pricey 3p)?


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## cruzmisl (Jan 11, 2009)

While the new P7 is a flood I have to say that with an extra 400 or so lumens it would shine at least up tp 100 yards away. Anyone with some distance shots?


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## Shrigg (Jan 11, 2009)

cruzmisl said:


> While the new P7 is a flood I have to say that with an extra 400 or so lumens it would shine at least up tp 100 yards away. Anyone with some distance shots?



It will be fun to light up the shooting range with it and watch peoples reactions in the other lanes! Gene was telling me how he put it in a 3P with one RCR and handed it to his little neice to try. An astonished "Uncle Gene!!!!" was her reaction


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## Psychomodo (Jan 11, 2009)

Can anyone suggest the smallest host for this drop in (very bright edc needed!)? 18650 preferable.

Thanks.


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## Shrigg (Jan 11, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> Can someone point me to a 6p compatible single CR123 host (besides the pricey 3p)?



A single CR123 host would be the smallest but Gene says you need to run 3.7V RCR's _not_ 3.0V primaries. I, too am looking for single CR123 P60 (3P clone) host recommendations for this Ultimate EDC.....


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## QtrHorse (Jan 11, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> Can someone point me to a 6p compatible single CR123 host (besides the pricey 3p)?


 


Psychomodo said:


> Can anyone suggest the smallest host for this drop in (very bright edc needed!)? 18650 preferable.
> 
> Thanks.


 
Look up the member Nite. He is selling the FM 16340 (3P) body, the 1x18650 body along with a few other sizes. These are not original Surefire bodies, they are aftermarket.

The ideal host would be one of Fivemega's new 1C custom bodies with a clicky tailcap that accepts any Surefire C head. The bad part is that they have been sold out for about two weeks now.


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## Shrigg (Jan 11, 2009)

QtrHorse said:


> Look up the member Nite. He is selling the FM 16340 (3P) body, the 1x18650 body along with a few other sizes. These are not original Surefire bodies, they are aftermarket.
> 
> The ideal host would be one of Fivemega's new 1C custom bodies with a clicky tailcap that accepts any Surefire C head. The bad part is that they have been sold out for about two weeks now.



Thank you ! ! ! :thumbsup:


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## Team Member (Jan 11, 2009)

This is exactly what I have been looking for!!! Finally I can have a P7 in a 6P!! 


.._bored 6P I mean._..


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## QtrHorse (Jan 11, 2009)

I forgot to mention that Lighthound.com is also selling the same bodies that Nite is selling. You could order the AW IMR1634, IMR18650 or the standard 123 and 18650 cells along with the body from the same source and maybe save a few $$ on shipping. Lighthound.com sells the AW cells and the Nite/ FM bodies.


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## Chrontius (Jan 11, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> Yes it really sounds great for my mountain bike night rides and even for weapon mounting. Gene said it compares to having a 100 watt incandescent light bulb shining ahead of you as far as the light output.
> 
> He also said it would run on RCR's, albeit with short 15 to 20 minute runtime. Imagine the fun little EDC shocker light that could be made in a single RCR format! Can someone point me to a 6p compatible single CR123 host (besides the pricey 3p)?



Inquiring minds want to know if this would work with the McClassic 2 stage tailcap on an IMR123, and which resistor would give you an effective low beam. EDC shocker, indeed.


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## FLT MEDIC (Jan 11, 2009)

I prefer the MTE P7 beam pattern. What brand and model is it? TIA!


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## LEDninja (Jan 11, 2009)

Looks like the original sku.12060 from way back.

Be careful. Recently a couple of members got the 2 mode tailcap with the light giving 10 modes or 20 clicks to cycle back where you were.


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## gsnorm (Jan 11, 2009)

FLT MEDIC said:


> I prefer the MTE P7 beam pattern. What brand and model is it? TIA!


 

This looks like the one : http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12325


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## DHart (Jan 11, 2009)

I had a great, long conversation with Gene Malkoff today... wonderful guy. And ordered one of his P7 "RoomSweepers" (my application of the term to his product) along with a M60F and M60. Can't wait to check these out. Thanks for the info guys... really appreciate it.

And this MTE P7 light at $38 sure looks like it would be worth checking out as well. I've been looking for a potent and yet economical LED flashlight to give a friend for his birthday and the MTE looks like that will be the choice!


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## gsegelk (Jan 12, 2009)

Speaking of Roomsweeper, I wonder how this would compare to the Milky Roomsweeper (link here, post #43)? It's probably impossible to tell, but it looks like the Malkoff P7 might have a tighter beam (relative) whereas the Milky Roomsweeper has more flood...no way to know for sure unless they were compared side-by-side.

I just ordered the M60WF and I should have called to see if he had any P7's :sigh:...at this point I'll try the one I ordered before I place another order...


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## DHart (Jan 12, 2009)

Gene told me his P7 really doesn't have much of a beam at all, he said the light it gives off is similar to a bare bulb lightbulb with a block behind it to keep it from shining back on you. I'm really looking forward to comparing his M60F (flood) to his P7. Now I need to find a host for the P7 because he said it requires a single cell flashlight and my SF Z2 can only take a 17670, not the 18650 which I would prefer. I guess I just need to order a single 18650 body to swap into my Z2 tailcap/body/head.

As a near/close range tactical "blinder/sweeper" I would think that either the P7 or the M60F would probably be a perfect tool!


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## nakahoshi (Jan 12, 2009)

DHart said:


> Gene told me his P7 really doesn't have much of a beam at all, he said the light it gives off is similar to a bare bulb lightbulb with a block behind it to keep it from shining back on you. I'm really looking forward to comparing his M60F (flood) to his P7. Now I need to fins a host for the P7 because he said it requires a single cell flashlight and my SF Z2 can only take a 17670, not the 18650 which I would prefer. I guess I just need to order a single 18650 body to swap into my Z2 tailcap/body/head.
> 
> As a near/close range tactical "blinder/sweeper" I would think that either the P7 or the M60F would probably be a perfect tool!



My experience with the M30WF compared to the P7 is that it "throws better".
Using that term very loosely, it just seams to reach out a little better then the P7. 

The P7 will light up a room and it put light everywhere with no blinding hot spot. 

-Bobby


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## DHart (Jan 12, 2009)

I ordered a Fivemega 1x18650 body with C-connections for head and tail and put Surefire head & tailcap on it... as a host for the Malkoff P7 lamp powered by an AW IMR18650. 

A fellow forum member mentioned to me that there *might* be some electrical connection reliability issues by using a non-Surefire body... does anyone know whether my plan with the Fivemega body as a host will work well or not? :sigh:

Would I just be better off buying a new SF 6P incandescent for $62 and putting the P7 in with a 17670? I do wonder if a 17670 be too fat to fit into the 6P body? And would the loss of run time with the 17670 (vs. the 18650) be much?


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## nakahoshi (Jan 12, 2009)

please dont cross post, I know you want an answer. 

I run a malkoff in a leef body with no issues. The body should work fine. If not, sell it.

-Bobby


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## Shrigg (Jan 12, 2009)

Can any of you guys with this P7 drop in share some runtimes? I'm debating between AW 220mah and AW IMR 1600 mah. 


I've got the IMR's in my cart and I'm about to click "Checkout" at Lighthound.... :green:


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## 270winchester (Jan 13, 2009)

with a 1600mah 17670 I'm reading around 2.4amp after the voltage settles down.

So I would say about 45 minutes with 17670 and a little less than an hour with the 18650.


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## bigchelis (Jan 13, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> Can any of you guys with this P7 drop in share some runtimes? I'm debating between AW 220mah and AW IMR 1600 mah.
> 
> 
> I've got the IMR's in my cart and I'm about to click "Checkout" at Lighthound.... :green:


 
I used a Trustfire 2500mAh protected cell I ran it for two hours then quite the test. I need a lux meter to record the readings every 5 minutes because my eyes couldn't tell any difference in output till around 1:03 hours and then it dropped slightly till about 1:50. It still had plenty of light at the 2 hour mark, but I felt I lux test would be a better way to test.


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## Shrigg (Jan 13, 2009)

Gene told me the IMR may give more lumens due to their increased current capability. I went with one of each, the AW 2200mah and and AW IMR 1600mah. I'll test them both out and report back with runtimes too. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## toby_pra (Jan 15, 2009)

Are there any new informations about producing the P7 Drop-In?


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## Shrigg (Jan 15, 2009)

Gene is producing them as demand warrants. When I talked to him he said he had around 15 or 20 of them made up. They're just not on the website so you need to call him to order.


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## toby_pra (Jan 15, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> Gene is producing them as demand warrants. When I talked to him he said he had around 15 or 20 of them made up. They're just not on the website so you need to call him to order.


 
Many thx!


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## DHart (Jan 15, 2009)

toby_pra said:


> Are there any new informations about producing the P7 Drop-In?



As of two days ago, he had 'em in stock and shipped one to me. Can't wait to try it out.


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## Policetacteam (Jan 16, 2009)

I realize this may be a stupid question but you can still use the P7 with 2 123 primaries correct!?! I am not yet using any rechargeables yet.


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## gsegelk (Jan 16, 2009)

Post #23 talks about this but I don't think the question was 'officially' answered. I also think 2 primaries would be too much but that's only my take... 




Policetacteam said:


> I realize this may be a stupid question but you can still use the P7 with 2 123 primaries correct!?! I am not yet using any rechargeables yet.


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## 270winchester (Jan 16, 2009)

No. the voltage of 2 primaries will fry the LED



Policetacteam said:


> I realize this may be a stupid question but you can still use the P7 with 2 123 primaries correct!?! I am not yet using any rechargeables yet.


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## Policetacteam (Jan 16, 2009)

I'm curious what results Shrigg will come up with between the two new batteries!?! :thinking:


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## Shrigg (Jan 16, 2009)

I'm expecting everything today or tomorrow: The P7 drop in, Solarforce 18650 L2 host, AW and IMR batteries, WF-139 charger (complete with car adapter). I too am very anxious!!!! 

The waiting is the hardest part here guys!!


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## DHart (Jan 16, 2009)

Shrigg... sounds like you and I are living parallel lives this week! I ordered much of the same stuff as you did.

I got all of my goodies yesterday to put together my "RoomSweeper"... ideally, one would probably drive the P7 with an 18650, but I decided to put my P7 module in my Surefire Z2, which won't take the diameter of an 18650, but it will take an 17670, so that's how I'm using it right now, with an AW protected 17670. This is a REALLY great light. Nice, big, fat, soft beam with ever so slight of a fat-ish central beam, but just barely. Lights up a room brilliantly, as Gene told me, kind of like having a bare lightbulb in your hand but with a block between the bulb and your eyes. There is a clearly defined edge to the wide beam. Outside it doesn't have much throw, but it's so bright that it does illuminate a wide near-field area nicely.

I also set up my M60F module in a Solarforce L2 18650 host using two 123 primaries right now, until I get my AW protected 16340's, which should arrive today. The M60F has a narrower field of illumination than the P7 does and (at least with two primaries) is noticibly less bright than the P7. Between the two, definitely go with the P7 for RoomSweeper type of applications.

In addition, I set up an M60 module in a 9P clone I put together from a Solarforce L2 crenelated head, FiveMega 18650 body, and Solarforce L2 extension tube and tailcap... which I'm running with two AW protected 17500's. This set-up I like a LOT. Nice throw, nice and bright, not too spotty... a little bit of a floody throw. A superb set-up for a general purpose light.

Between the P7 and the M60F, I'd will definitely choose the P7 for the RoomSweeper function... it's just much wider and brighter than the M60F and clearly a better choice for this function. And the M60 is a much better general purpose module than the M60F is.... so having the P7 and M60, I could easily live without the M60F.

Those who are considering the P7.... just do it! It's an awesome light. :thumbsup:


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## Policetacteam (Jan 16, 2009)

Thanks DHart! Cool to hear that everything is working very well!!

Waiting to see how Shrigg's rig will work out! I'm also checking out some different hosts with the Fivemega at the top of the list with an AW 18650 IMR. Kinda waiting to see the results of every one's Frakenstein tests before I spend the coin!


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## DHart (Jan 16, 2009)

I'm finding the Solarforce L2 body right on par with the Fivemega body... not much difference to speak of for the money... as far as I can tell anyway. Moving forward, I'd just buy the Solarforce components. My recommendation would be to just buy a complete Solarforce L2 host (head, body, tailcap) and just drop the P7 and batts into it. Good to go for practically no money (except for the P7 module). Lighthound has the L2 host for cheap!


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## 43X16 (Jan 16, 2009)

Thanks! I have been searching for this info. How about a M30 so one can use 1 cell like the P7?


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## Bullet Bob (Jan 16, 2009)

I called Gene a while back when I first saw this thread and he returned my call just when another fellow CPF'er was with me so we ordered two of these units. We had both just bought the day before the single c cell body that FM had come up with with P6 head and we figured it would be a match made in heaven with the AW's C cell. Everything showed up and we put them together and they were bright but way too floody for me and my friends taste. I thought about this a bit and did some research to find an optic that might work and I found an optic made for the multi die Cree (MRE?) that cost me all of 9.00 including shipping for two of them. With a little bit of sanding on the optic holders base and opening up the hole on the holder to fit over the P7 the whole thing fit beautiful inside of Gene's drop in. WOW, what an improvement that was. It gave the beam a much better focused hot spot but still had excellent spill and all in great package. There was a little bit of some artifacts in the beam on the wall but they were very slight and not noticeable in actual use. If I get my friend to bring his camera over we'll try to get some beamshots posted.


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## Owen (Jan 16, 2009)

Modding a Malkoff...that's the spirit! I'd like to see those beamshots. I got Gene to give me a price for the P7 when I ordered a M60W, but have held off ordering one because I do want _some_ hotspot. Something along the lines of a L4 on steroids is what I'm hoping for-something as close as possible to the beam on that Wolf-Eyes P7. Perhaps too much to ask for a D26-sized pill/reflector, I know.

How is the tint on the ones you guys have been getting? 
I'm not familiar with the binning systems for the Crees and Seouls, etc. Do we have a choice in tint?


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## DHart (Jan 16, 2009)

Bob... yes, Gene's P7 is definitely a module for the guy who wants a wall of light, not a general purpose flashlight.

Now... if Gene will also offer a P7 with an optic like you fashioned... that would be a great general purpose light!


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## Policetacteam (Jan 16, 2009)

Bullet Bob,

I would love to see some pics of the actual mod itself plus any beam shots would be greatly appreciated!! That's definitely the pioneering spirit...modding a mod!! Right on! :rock:


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## Shrigg (Jan 16, 2009)

I received mine today too along with my lighthound order with the Solarforce 18650 host. I'm at work now but was able to charge both the AW 2200mah and the AW IMR 1600mah batteries (gotta love the WF-139's separate charging circuits) Runtime tests later tonight! 

EDIT: By placing the silver Solarforce washer between the bezel and the body the rattle is eliminated. Maybe in my excitement I just put the host back together wrong... :shrug: 

The copper crush washer Gene provided me is way too small for this location though... I put it behind the Solarforce tailswitch to help make everything more snug.


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## Owen (Jan 16, 2009)

Sounds like the washer that goes between the drop-in and the front of the body(inside the head, like you said). I got a couple for using the M60W in lights with shock isolated bezels, and they work perfectly for that.


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## DHart (Jan 16, 2009)

Shrigg... I took a little aluminum foil and folded it up into a strip shape, folded to several thicknesses thick and wrapped it around the base of the Malkoff module before dropping it into the flashlight... that snugged things up nicely and made for a reliable connection. Once it's set like that, you won't be opening the head much, if at all, again and you'll forget the work-around is even in there... I have. Unless you already have a Surefire host or want to pay for a Surefire host, I think the Solarforce host for a Malkoff module is a perfectly good choice and very inexpensive! Plus, with the Solarforce, you can go with the AW 18650 cell. I also bought some AW IMR cells, but I'm going to return them as the runtime is a lot better with the AW protected cells and I don't see a need for the IMR, especially considering the sacrificed run time.


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## Shrigg (Jan 16, 2009)

Bullet Bob said:


> If I get my friend to bring his camera over we'll try to get some beamshots posted.



BEAMSHOTS!! BEAMSHOTS!!


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## Shrigg (Jan 17, 2009)

DHart said:


> I also bought some AW IMR cells, but I'm going to return them as the runtime is a lot better with the AW protected cells and I don't see a need for the IMR, especially considering the sacrificed run time.



Can you share your runtimes with us?


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## DHart (Jan 17, 2009)

sure.... but I haven't given any time or effort toward determining exact run times yet... just been using and playing with the lights for the time being. Lots of new toyz to play with... I'm loving this!


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## Shrigg (Jan 17, 2009)

It might be worth full testing before you return anything. Gene said the IMR _could_ be brighter due to its increased current capacity. I'm doing a timed runtime on the 2200mah as I type this.


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## DHart (Jan 17, 2009)

Shrigg... I decided to return the IMR batts, got an RMA, and mailed them off today. While there may be a measurable difference in brightness to a meter, Gene said the difference wouldn't really be visible to the user's eye... so basically, I just wanted the most run time and don't feel that there is anything lost in going with protected vs. IMR. I've read elsewhere on this forum that the only time an IMR battery really makes a noticible difference is with lamps which have a very high draw... presumably high current incandescents. Someone else here who knows more than I do might confirm this, but I don't think most LED's in the 6P type flashlights draw enough to benefit from the IMR-type cells.


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## Shrigg (Jan 17, 2009)

Well I ran the 2200mah AW batteries for over two hours straight and the light was still on! At 40 minutes the brightness started to decrease and I also witnessed a VERY BLUE tint at about an hour in. The light got too hot to hold so I ran it under cold water to cool it off. From an 1:00 to 2:00 it just got steadily dimmer until at 2:00 it was not even as bright as my Fenix LD01 on low.

That blue tint was freaky, I thought I burned it up or something but maybe that's just an indicator to change the batteries. (The brightness had fallen off substantially by that time)

Now testing the IMR 1600mah with LIQUID COOLING, lol


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## Yoda4561 (Jan 17, 2009)

Be sure to check battery voltage on that IMR after around 30 minutes, then every 10 or 15 minutes afterwards. Try not to let the battery (any lithium ion for that matter) get below 3.5-3.6 volts resting, it should keep the cells much healthier in the long run.


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## Shrigg (Jan 17, 2009)

Hmm, since I don't have a voltmeter maybe I better just stop the test. Hope sacrificing my other AW battery proves useful to someone... 

-ABORTED-


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## DHart (Jan 17, 2009)

ooops... double post due to database error... sorry.


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## DHart (Jan 17, 2009)

Shrigg.. over-discharging can definitely damage a cell or reduce it's life. I think protected cells in unregulated lights are safer in this regard. Li-ions are potentially fairly dangerous batteries if not handled properly.... just in case you haven't seen these, this is some great info, especially mdocod's great primers:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172991

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/161536

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201375

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2787601#post2787601

Enjoy your great lights!


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## Shrigg (Jan 17, 2009)

Thanks for the tips. Yes I'm very happy with my lights: Malkoff P7+18650 Solarforce, Eagletac T10C2, Fenix L0D and (on the way) Olight T10-Q5 Special Edition. I think for a newbie my starting collection has me covered (and now drained financially, lol).

I think I have the makings of a true Flashaholic... 4 lights in a week! But they each have their function (the justification begins..... )


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## DHart (Jan 17, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> I think I have the makings of a true Flashaholic... 4 lights in a week! But they each have their function (the justification begins..... )



Yep... you and I are on similar paths... this last week I've ordered:

From Lighthound:
Solarforce L2 18650 hosts (2)
Extension tubes for above
Assortment of different size AW protected cells
Ultrafire WF-139 Li-Ion Charger

From Gene Malkoff:
Malkoff P7, M60, M60F, M30 lamp modules

From DealExtreme:
MTE SSC P7 C-Bin 900-Lumen 2-Mode LED Flashlight (1*18650)

From ShiningBeam:
Romisen RC-N3 grey
Romisen RC-F4 grey
Romisen RC-C3 grey (2 of these)

Now I'm exploring the best option for a single cell light
which can go down to 3 or 4 lumens or so for reading and
extended runtime, in addition to perhaps 70 to 80 lumens 
(possibly infinite power adjust.), can do candle mode, and 
also accept both primary 123 as well as RCR123. Looking 
at Fenix, JetBeam, NiteCore Extreme, and who knows what 
else. The SF E1L looks like it fits the bill very well except 
it can't take an RCR123, dang it.

This is such fun stuff.


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## Shrigg (Jan 17, 2009)

You've outdone me, nice! The addiction begins. Do they have a 12-step program for this condition ?


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## DHart (Jan 17, 2009)

Shrigg said:


> Do they have a 12-step program for this condition ?



 As an addiction, it's not bad at all! I'm coming off a long term firearms addiction, so this little addiction feels real nice to me. One nice gun is worth a heck of a lot of flashlights! :twothumbs

Sorry we drifted off topic... will get back on now.


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## Shrigg (Jan 17, 2009)

Yeah my firearms addiction relapsed last weekend and bought a SAR-48 "because it was there." BUT WE DIGRESS....  
Getting back on topic, I still love my P7!


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## baterija (Jan 17, 2009)

DHart said:


> I've read elsewhere on this forum that the only time an IMR battery really makes a noticible difference is with lamps which have a very high draw... presumably high current incandescents. Someone else here who knows more than I do might confirm this, but I don't think most LED's in the 6P type flashlights draw enough to benefit from the IMR-type cells.



The P7 isn't most LED's. :naughty: You might want to check out this thread. It deals with 16340 IMR but it demonstrates a key point. At higher loads the IMR basically retains about the same capacity (up to 8C draw). The typical chemistry cell droops in capacity as loads go higher. The current you are looking at to the module in this case is around 1C for an 18650. There's probably not much capacity difference at that load from what I have read. Since the IMR can probably push a little more current in direct drive, the same capacity would give you brighter with less runtime.

The individual flashaholic can make the call over which matters more to them. Now if you wanted to use a one cell light with this module then IMR is the clear winner...for a very short, very bright time.


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## Chrontius (Jan 19, 2009)

I've got an idea for a build, and this is possibly my first built-to-spec lego - can you guys review it and give me an idea about it?

Body is an E1E.
Head is a C2-HA with an E2C.
Tail is a Z52 with McE2s
Clip is custom and based on the E1b, with two finger half-loops perpendicular to the clip; the idea is to create a Rogers grip for an E series light. It's intended to be carried bezel down on the outside of a belt.
Battery, of course, is the IMR 16340.
I barely need to say it, but it's pushing a Malkoff P7 prototype.


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## bigchelis (Jan 20, 2009)

Chrontius said:


> I've got an idea for a build, and this is possibly my first built-to-spec lego - can you guys review it and give me an idea about it?
> 
> Body is an E1E.
> Head is a C2-HA with an E2C.
> ...


 

I been running a similar set-up for two weeks now and it works great. The AW16340 for me lasted for well into 20minutes well working on my home plumbing issues. The aluminum foil is just amazing at eliminating heat. It didn't get hot at all. Way cooler then I anticipated.
Setup:
E1b 
E to C adaptor from Surefire LU60A (adaptor only)
6P head
Malkoff P7 wrapped in aluminum foil.


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## DHart (Jan 20, 2009)

bigchelis... I would love to see pics of that little 1-cell blaster! That sounds like such a cool littleBIG light. :twothumbs


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## nakahoshi (Jan 20, 2009)

bigchelis said:


> I been running a similar set-up for two weeks now and it works great. The AW16340 for me lasted for well into 20minutes well working on my home plumbing issues. The aluminum foil is just amazing at eliminating heat. It didn't get hot at all. Way cooler then I anticipated.
> Setup:
> E1b
> E to C adaptor from Surefire LU60A (adaptor only)
> ...



You WANT your light to get hot, your going to kill your Malkoff if you don't dissipate the heat. it might not show right away but your slowly cooking the led and it wont last very long at all.

To the above poster who had his P7 Turn blue, that is not normal and it doesn't sound good. It looks like your led is dying. When you place a light in water it still isolates the heat and doesn't cool off your light. With this much power in such a small package you really need to think about heat before running it for more then 10 minutes or so. 

-Bobby


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## bigchelis (Jan 20, 2009)

I think the reason the P7 in a single cell doesn't get hot is because the 2.8amp draw only last for 2 to 3 minutes when the light is noticeably warmer. Due to the limited capacity of the AW16340, I bet it draws under 2amps after 3 minutes. Maybe a amp draw test is due. 

In my 18650 set-up it gets warm for about 18 minutes, then it settles down and doesn't get warm. I asked Gene about this and he suggested it is probably the amp draw that has settled down. Which is why he rates it a 600 to 700 lumens(45minutes), but he said it could be as low as 1.5amp once the cell looses alot of juice. This makes sense because it explains why I been getting 1:50 hours on a single 18650 with no noticeable heat past the 1 hour mark. 

Have any of you noticed this too?
Gene said if I had to run a non-rechargeable 3V primary it would probably draw 1.5 to 1.8amps. This reminds me of the M30 that can be M30L or M30LL. Makes me like the P7 even more now.
I wish I could be more technical about this, but perhaps others could shine in on this more clearly.



thanks,
bigchelis


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## etc (Jan 20, 2009)

would like to see Malkoff P7 with a hotspot and better throw. 
Basically the same thing as m60 but brighter.


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## Shrigg (Jan 20, 2009)

nakahoshi said:


> You WANT your light to get hot, your going to kill your Malkoff if you don't dissipate the heat. it might not show right away but your slowly cooking the led and it wont last very long at all.
> 
> To the above poster who had his P7 Turn blue, that is not normal and it doesn't sound good. It looks like your led is dying. When you place a light in water it still isolates the heat and doesn't cool off your light. With this much power in such a small package you really need to think about heat before running it for more then 10 minutes or so.
> 
> -Bobby



I talked to Gene about it and he said the blue indicated the LED was definitely overheating. It was only looking blue for a few seconds, when I noticed this I shut the light off and put it in water to cool at least the heatsink


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 21, 2009)

nakahoshi said:


> You WANT your light to get hot, your going to kill your Malkoff if you don't dissipate the heat. it might not show right away but your slowly cooking the led and it wont last very long at all.
> 
> -Bobby



The aluminum foil is going to help conduction of heat from the module to the head/body. I use foil for all of my LED drop-ins for Surefire bodies. Use of foil will result in slower drop off in output due to heat. It is measurable and I have compared runtimes using Malkoff M30 with and without foil using bounce with lightmeter. Not sure why the poster said he did not feel any heat pulling 2+ amps, using the Malkoff P7. 

Bill


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## bigchelis (Jan 21, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> The aluminum foil is going to help conduction of heat from the module to the head/body. I use foil for all of my LED drop-ins for Surefire bodies. Use of foil will result in slower drop off in output due to heat. It is measurable and I have compared runtimes using Malkoff M30 with and without foil using bounce with lightmeter. Not sure why the poster said he did not feel any heat pulling 2+ amps, using the Malkoff P7.
> 
> Bill


 
When I held my Surefire 6P w/P7 in my hands for 20 minutes it gets really warm, but afterwards it just doesn't seem to get warm, but still super bright. I did try and just leave it on without me holding it and it gets hot, reall hot. I think me holding it helps reduce the heat dramatically. So, much for a bike light.:sick2: I wonder if I put it on my head with a head band my head will keep it cool just kidding, probably not.


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## Optik49 (Jan 21, 2009)

_Any Recommendations on a good host with a Clicky tail cap. I wanted a bored out surefire but I cannot seem to find one. It looks like I will have to get a Solarforce or Five Mega._


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## DHart (Jan 21, 2009)

Optik49 said:


> _Any Recommendations on a good host with a Clicky tail cap. I wanted a bored out surefire but I cannot seem to find one. It looks like I will have to get a Solarforce or Five Mega._


 I'm not a big fan of boring out a perfectly good Surefire to take an 18650, but you are likely to be able to use a 17670 in a stock SF 6P host just fine. I ran my Malkoff P7 lamp in a Surefire Z2 for awhile with the 17670 and it worked great, but ultimately I decided to run a Malkoff M30 with 17670 in the Z2 and create a new host for my P7.

I've found this to be a great option for my P7:






















SolarForce Head, FiveMega body, SolarForce tail (fwd click w/momentary), and AW 18650 protected cell obtained from LightHound. P7 lamp assembly from Malkoff. Works superbly!

This is a GREAT light for indoors work, flooding a dark room with bright light, walking through your dark house exploring a noise, or when wanting a good light to blast an assailant with broad, super bright light - and the crenulated bezel could come in very handy in such a situation, where your gun wasn't happening for whatever reason. These are applications where a narrow thrower isn't quite as useful, but the Malkoff P7 shines in these applications. I use the M60 and M30 Malkoffs for more general-use lights where there is a need to light up more distant things.


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## nfetterly (Jan 21, 2009)

Got my P7 about 2 weeks ago, had emailed Gene earlier and he had said to email back in a week or so. I'd ordered previously from him, so that may have helped.

Takes 1 battery (up to 4.5 v), works great on a FiveMega (Nite supplied) 1 x 18650 (basically a bored 6P) with Surefire heads & tails.

What does not work is the Multilevel (for incans) switch for C/P/Z/M tailcaps by AW - it works on the other Malkoffs I've got (even though it's made specifically for softstarting & giving multilevel to incans).

As said above - it is a huge flood of light, while I like good throw this is really impressive.


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## Policetacteam (Jan 21, 2009)

DHart,

Nice set-up!!! Great pictures too! That was exactly what I was looking to put together! Nice to see it in it's working configuration. :twothumbs


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 22, 2009)

bigchelis said:


> When I held my Surefire 6P w/P7 in my hands for 20 minutes it gets really warm, but afterwards it just doesn't seem to get warm, but still super bright. I did try and just leave it on without me holding it and it gets hot, reall hot. I think me holding it helps reduce the heat dramatically. So, much for a bike light.:sick2: I wonder if I put it on my head with a head band my head will keep it cool just kidding, probably not.



That's ok, don't just sit it down and let it run. Hold onto it like you have been doing. Really better for the LED.

Bill


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## Monocrom (Jan 22, 2009)

Policetacteam said:


> DHart,
> 
> Nice set-up!!! Great pictures too! That was exactly what I was looking to put together! Nice to see it in it's working configuration. :twothumbs


 
A big *+1 *on that!

Very sweet set-up. Nice to see that the FiveMega bodies work well with Solarforce bezels and tailcaps.... And while typing this, I just realized that the new Solarforce L2 hosts will accept an 18650 cell. 

Quick question, my Solarforce forward-clickie is very sensative. The smallest amount of thumb pressure causes it to click on. Does your tailcap exhibit more spring resistence? (I honestly can't refer to mine as having a momentary function, due to how easily it clicks on).


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## Kestrel (Jan 22, 2009)

DHart said:


> I've found this to be a great option for my P7 ... the Malkoff P7 shines in these applications. I use the M60 and M30 Malkoffs for more general-use lights where there is a need to light up more distant things.


Those are some really nice photos. It's fun to swap around all those Malkoff modules between lights isn't it?

_Memo to self: buy more Malkoff's ..._


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## DHart (Jan 22, 2009)

Monocrom said:


> A big *+1 *on that! Very sweet set-up. Nice to see that the FiveMega bodies work well with Solarforce bezels and tailcaps.... And while typing this, I just realized that the new Solarforce L2 hosts will accept an 18650 cell.
> 
> Quick question, my Solarforce forward-clickie is very sensative. The smallest amount of thumb pressure causes it to click on. Does your tailcap exhibit more spring resistence? (I honestly can't refer to mine as having a momentary function, due to how easily it clicks on).



The Solarforce tailcap in my pics above is just a hair more sensitive than the button on my SF Z2, but not so much that I have any issues with it. It has a definite distinction in thumb pressure between "momentary" and a little harder for "on". And of course you can lock it out with a slight counter twist.

And yes, the Solarforce L2 (head, battery tube, and switch cap) makes a great host as well, but there isn't a "momentary" on the switch cap that comes with the complete L2 host. Practically speaking, and for the money, I think the Solarforce battery tube is just as serviceable as the much more expensive FiveMega tube is. In addition to the P7 set-up in my pics above, I have a complete Solarforce L2 host and added one of their 1-cell extension tubes onto it for a total 3-cell length, popped in two 17500's and the Malkoff M60 lamp assembly... another really nice set-up, all Solarforce components except for the Malkoff. Feels, works, and looks great.



Kestrel said:


> Those are some really nice photos. It's fun to swap around all those Malkoff modules between lights isn't it?
> 
> _Memo to self: buy more Malkoff's ..._



Kestrel... yes, is sure is fun playing flashlight legos. And (thanks to YOU) I have the M30 in my Z2 powered by an AW 17670 protected. Nice set up and thanks for turning me on to the M30 choice! :thumbsup:

And I'm feeling reaaally guilty - in the last week and a half I have been shameless in buying waay too many new flashlights... gotta cut myself off NOW! (Addicted! :duh2 At least I now have lots of new toyz to play with!


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## Monocrom (Jan 23, 2009)

DHart said:


> And yes, the Solarforce L2 (head, battery tube, and switch cap) makes a great host as well, but there isn't a "momentary" on the switch cap that comes with the complete L2 host.


 
My L2 host has a true momentary tailcap. It's the stock one that came on my Solarforce L600. On the L600, it's as hard as a rock. But on the L2 host, the momentary switch works perfectly. (Took the L2's stock reverse-clickie, and placed it on my L600. It's a 99% perfect fit. Works properly, quite snug; but you can tell it's just a hair off).

I don't think Solarforce sells the momentary tailcap seperately. (It looks just like the forward-clickie in your pics, but not as tall).


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## DHart (Jan 23, 2009)

Monocrom... I may have switched around the tail caps from my L2 Host and the individual Solarforce tailcap that I also bought... the one in my pics above _may_ be the tailcap that came with my L2 host... not sure now! :duh2: In any event, one of my Solarforce tail caps has no momentary and the other one does... the large bodied one shown above does, whereas the slim, smaller profile one doesn't.


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## Monocrom (Jan 23, 2009)

DHart said:


> Monocrom... I may have switched around the tail caps from my L2 Host and the individual Solarforce tailcap that I also bought... the one in my pics above _may_ be the tailcap that came with my L2 host... not sure now! :duh2: In any event, one of my Solarforce tail caps has no momentary and the other one does... the large bodied one shown above does, whereas the slim, smaller profile one doesn't.


 
Stock tailcap on the L2 host is a reverse-clickie that is flush with the body, and has no momentary feature. The forward-clickie with the flared top is sold seperately.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 23, 2009)

What is Gene Charging for the P7 drop-in.

Bill


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## olrac (Jan 23, 2009)

Bullzeyebill said:


> What is Gene Charging for the P7 drop-in.
> 
> Bill



When I inquired it was $83 shipped


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## DHart (Jan 23, 2009)

Bill.... I paid $65, plus shipping of around $6 or so.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jan 23, 2009)

Thanks, DHart. :wave:

Bill


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## DHart (Jan 23, 2009)

Bill... you are very welcome, my friend. I should add that the $6 for shipping was for three lamp assemblies (M60, M60F, and P7)... The M60 and M60F were $55 ea. The P7 was $65. Total was $181 including shipping.


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## swrdply400mrelay (Jan 24, 2009)

Does any one have outdoor beamshots and distance shots?


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## DHart (Jan 24, 2009)

There isn't really any beam, per se, to see... at any distance outdoors, you will see a very soft, wide illumination. There is a slightly perceptible brighter central area when used indoors, but nowhere near enough to be considered a beam or hot spot. With a distant outdoors setting, you're not likely to see any central brightness at all. That's about it. The light on the scene looks like what we photographers call "bare bulb" lighting. The pics at the beginning of this thread give a good example of the general illumination indoors. 

This is a light that is at it's best for two things that I can think of myself (and better at these than most anything else that I'm aware of) 

• broadly illuminating a room without distracting hot spots

• being blisteringly bright in momentarily rebuffing an assailant

While I would definitely take other flashlight choices (like the M60) over the Malkoff P7 as a general outdoor light, I very much value the Malkoff P7 for its abilities in those two areas.

Now i'd like to emulate those who have found ways to shoe-horn the P7 onto a single cell E-body.... that would be very sweet as a defense/carry light - offering just enough tactical dis-orienting time advantage to bring a .45 into the equation.


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## Kestrel (Jan 25, 2009)

DHart said:


> ... offering just enough tactical dis-orienting time advantage to bring a .45 into the equation.


Now for some serious disorientation...


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## DHart (Jan 25, 2009)

Kestrel said:


> Now for some serious disorientation...



If necessary... hopefully so! oo:


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## swrdply400mrelay (Jan 26, 2009)

DHart said:


> This is a light that is at it's best for two things that I can think of myself (and better at these than most anything else that I'm aware of)
> 
> • broadly illuminating a room without distracting hot spots
> 
> ...


 


So would you recommend this light for some night hiking or camping?

Thanks!


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## DHart (Jan 26, 2009)

swrdply... I would not recommend the P7 for night hiking or camping. For those applications, I think the M60 (for 2-cells) or M30 (for 1-cell) would be just great! A great, bright central beam to focus on the semi-distant trail ahead or interest area, with a nice spill light for closer-in ambient vision. In a camping setting, the P7 would be of most value in evenly illuminating the immediate campsite, NOT for illuminating more distant areas of interest.


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## Kestrel (Jan 26, 2009)

swrdply400mrelay said:


> So would you recommend this light for some night hiking or camping?


I did a thread that discusses the usefulness of various outputs (low vs high - and the P7 definitely counts as high:devil during a camping trip of mine last year.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211244
A number of folks posted with their thoughts. Hope this helps.


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## Nameless Ranger (Jan 27, 2009)

Bullet Bob said:


> I found an optic made for the multi die Cree (MRE?) that cost me all of 9.00 including shipping for two of them.



What optic was that? Source/PN?

Do you think it would work with DX drop-in components?


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## Optik49 (Feb 6, 2009)

_Is a MP7 used with (1) CR123 Safe? or should I only use the 18650?_


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 6, 2009)

A P7 will want to draw close to 2.8 amps from the battery and a CR123 will not sustain that kind of current damand, and full brightness of LED will not be achieved, due to voltage sag. A Li Ion, particularly a high current Li Ion, will be needed to achieve highest output, and any kind of runtime, so yes an 18650 would be best.

Bill


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## baterija (Feb 6, 2009)

Optik49 said:


> _Is an MP7 used with (1) CR123 Safe? or should I only use the 18650?_



Well the specs for the Titanium 123 from battery junction show (picked because it's the first discharge rate google found for me)


> Max. Constant Current 1500mAh
> Max Pulse Current 3000mAh
> PTC High Current Discharge Protection  5AMP


Silverfox did do 2A draws on cells in the 123 shootout including the titanium. He mentions that 123's get hot at 2A. That's one more heat source in a small light. Put it together and I wouldn't want to try and pull 2.8 amps. 

Except this module is direct drive and probably can't pull that much. Looking at the P7 spec sheet typical Vf at 2.8A is 3.6 - more than the cell provides unloaded. Typical Vf at 1.4A is 3.3 - so exceeding safe current also requires more voltage than an unloaded cell provides. Good news.

Voltage will dip under load too. Looking at the battery shootout it drops just under 2.5 volts with a 1.5 safe amp draw. Typical forward current at 2.5 volts is a big fat zero - no light but no . At 3 Volts you get forward current that's maybe 400mA. Even at that draw the cell won't maintain 3 volts though. So with a typical Vf you are looking at less than 100ma per die. You would need a very low VF LED to push the max draw limit.

It's *probably* safe (I'd check tailcap draw the first time I did it as an indirect check for low Vf). It's probably not going to be as bright as a cheaper M30 with a primary though. A primary might make a backup but I wouldn't buy this to use with one. If you really want a 1x123 form factor with this module think IMR 16340. :thumbsup:

Disclaimer - I assume no liability. Proceed at your own risk. I make no claims of accuracy or actual safety. I am frequently wrong about anything and everything. Anything I think might be safe could actually result in immediate apocalypse. You should investigate reference material on your own and make your own judgement. Red Ryder BB guns will "put your eye out kid."


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## Optik49 (Feb 7, 2009)

Thanks. I have both an M30 and P7 and I just ordered a 3P so I thought a P7 in it would be cool. But I guess not now.


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## baterija (Feb 7, 2009)

Optik49 said:


> Thanks. I have both an M30 and P7 and I just ordered a 3P so I thought a P7 in it would be cool. But I guess not now.



An IMR 16340 should push it hard and safely...just not for long.


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## DHart (Feb 7, 2009)

Optik49 said:


> Thanks. I have both an M30 and P7 and I just ordered a 3P so I thought a P7 in it would be cool. But I guess not now.



Optik... we're thinking along the same lines... I have an MP7 and M60F and also have an FM 3P body coming... it will be interesting to see what the MP7 lamp assembly does with the 6P head, 3P body and an IMR16340. From info given by those that have contributed here and elsewhere, it sounds like the IMR16340 is really the only advisable 123 size cell to use for the P7. I know it won't last very long, but can still give good utility for certain applications. For one, it would make for a good self-defense light on the street... being fairly small for pocket carry and also providing enough temporary blinding effect to buy a few seconds to bring your weapon into action. Also, room sweeping.


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## Optik49 (Feb 7, 2009)

I have a FM 3P on the way also. You were a 100% correct


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## DHart (Feb 8, 2009)

swrdply400mrelay said:


> Does any one have outdoor beamshots and distance shots?



Beamshots from 3 floody lights...

Malkoff P7 - 1*18650






MTE SSC P7 - 1*18650





Malkoff M60F - 2*RCR123





The M-P7 has practically no beam... just wide, relatively even illumination.

The M60F has a bit of a focused beam, and a wide floody spill

The MTE SSC P7 has a bit of a focused beam as well, with a lot of wide floody spill.


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## Nameless Ranger (Feb 14, 2009)

A 3P or SolarForce L2-B16 body bored for an 18350 with a SS tactical bezel with a P7 drop-in will likely become my EDC - what a blast of light!


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## Optik49 (Feb 16, 2009)

Some eye candy. 

_3P Setups:_




 

 






 




_P7 Setups:_







 





 

 




 

 





http://s163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/Optik49/?action=view&current=IMG_2686.jpg


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## bigchelis (Feb 16, 2009)

Optik 49,
The 3P variations brought tears to my eyes........:mecry:

They are too dam good. I like what you did. 
Are you using the AW16340's or the new 18350 with more mAh?????????


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## DHart (Feb 24, 2009)

My pocket P7 setup...

Malkoff P7 in 6P head on FM 3P body w/Z59 Clickie Tailcap





P7 Goodness - Malkoff P7 head


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 24, 2009)

DHart, just beautiful, and great photography.

Bill


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## DHart (Feb 24, 2009)

Thank you, Bill, I'm glad you appreciate the pics! I love making them and using these wonderful light.


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## Optik49 (Feb 25, 2009)

What charger are you using? I have thought about putting my P7 in my 3P. How is the run time? The photo looks great.


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## DHart (Feb 25, 2009)

Optik49 said:


> What charger are you using? I have thought about putting my P7 in my 3P. How is the run time? The photo looks great.



UltraFire... 139, I believe. Ya know, I've never tested runtime on it. This isn't a general use light for me; I have it for fun and keep it handy on the nightstand if needed for a blast of light on an intruder and carry it when walking in public places at night to offer bit of space & distraction and buy a moment or two to produce more effective hardware. Around the house I will put the P7/6P head on an FM 1*18650 body and use an IMR 18650 cell. When going out, I put it on the 3P body. I would guess runtime on the IMR 18650 may be perhaps 30-45 minutes? Less on the IMR 16340. If I ever NEED to use the light as intended, that would be far more run time than necessary. And, like many of you, I usually have more than one light on hand at any given moment. Of course, I have other lights which get a lot more time as general use lights.


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## Gunnerboy (Feb 25, 2009)

Great photos DHart!

Runtime on 1xIMR16340 should be under 13 minutes. I can't wait for my 3P-size host to arrive!


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## DHart (Feb 25, 2009)

Thanks, Gunnerboy... glad ya like 'em!

13 minutes sounds about right, as I recall Milky saying that's about what his P7 RoomSweeper gets on a 16340. Plenty of time to do what's needed considering the incredible output and the short form factor.

Get yourself a FiveMega 18650 tube and some AW IMR18650's for times when you want longer runtime and don't mind a bit longer tube!


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## Kestrel (Feb 25, 2009)

DHart said:


> Of course, I have other lights which get a lot more time as general use lights.


That's because you need multiple output levels for that 3P/P7!:nana:
(I'm currently having Milky mod a Z41 twistie tailcap for two level output, you can try it out on your 3P sometime to see what that's like.)


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## DHart (Feb 25, 2009)

Kestrel said:


> That's because you need multiple output levels for that 3P/P7!:nana:
> (I'm currently having Milky mod a Z41 twistie tailcap for two level output, you can try it out on your 3P sometime to see what that's like.)



You got that right! Now I really need a couple or three two-stage tailcaps for some of my 6P/3P legos.


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