# DIY P60 drop-ins?



## Tony Hanna (Jul 10, 2009)

Hopefully I'm posting this in the right place..

I'd like to take a shot at building my own P7 or MCE drop-in but I'm not really sure where to start. I guess maybe I should post what I'd like to end up with and you guys can tell me if it's even possible.
For starters I'd like it to be compatible with both 1x and 2x 18650 and have 3 modes (low, mid, high) or even 4 modes with an extra low.
I'm no good at estimating lumens, but low should be usable in a car at night without blinding the driver. Medium should be on par with a single mode R2 drop-in and I'd like high to be this insane wall of light for 10 minutes or less at a shot. It would also be really nice if there was some way to have it automatically drop back to medium if it starts to get hot but that may be asking too much. Is there a driver available that would do all or most of this in a P60 sized package?

As for the emitter, I know I'm not going to get a bunch of throw out of a 4 die emitter in a P60 size reflector and I don't really need a bunch of throw. I'm looking more for something to carry while walking the dogs and to light up the whole back yard with to see what they're barking at. With that in mind, would I be better off with the P7 or the MCE?

I guess that's about it for the first post. If this is possible, I'm sure I'll have more questions regarding gathering up the parts to build it.

Thanks,
Tony


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## kosPap (Jul 10, 2009)

hmmm that battery requirement is difficult...

As far as I know you cna either 2 of the follinf three
17mm size (amc7135 sanwiches, shark buck, KD PWM Driver)
1 AND 2 batts (sharkbuck)
modes (amc7135 KD PWM driver)

or am i wrong that the sharkbuck is only single mode?


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## old4570 (Jul 11, 2009)

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/233845

Here you go ...


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## old4570 (Jul 11, 2009)

Driver = This one 


Or = This one

Sorry , ATM from drivers available = Either 1 x 18650 , or 2 x 18650 , I am not aware of any driver that will fit into the pill that will do both ..
The second driver , should be able to handle 2 x Primary 3v CR123A .. I currently run 2 of these drivers with SSC P7 .

Also a quick heads up .. A lot of the P60 pills [ DIY ] will not handle sandwich drivers , you need a very deep pill , like the R2 ones from DX that go 8.2v , these use dual board drivers so a sandwich driver should fit , WARNING , the R2 Crees are glued in tight , real tight , and you may end up destroying the R2 cree trying to remove it .. [ False economy ]


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 11, 2009)

kosPap said:


> hmmm that battery requirement is difficult...
> 
> As far as I know you cna either 2 of the follinf three
> 17mm size (amc7135 sanwiches, shark buck, KD PWM Driver)
> ...



The thing is, I know nothing about any of them. If I do this, it will be my first attempt at building anything LED related, so I'm completely unfamiliar with the different names and part numbers of the available drivers. I'll do some searching and try to get up to speed on the ones you mentioned. Also, I wanted to get an opinion on sku#1217 on shiningbeam.com. I'd have to give up 2 cell compatibility but otherwise it seems (to my limited knowledge) like it might be close to what I'm looking for.

I'll also need help with a materials list when it comes time to order parts as I don't know what kind of reflector I should use (does anybody even make one for a P7 in a P60 or will I have to modify one to work?) and what sort of thermal glue/paste I'll need for mounting the led and anything else I can't get locally. Ideally I'd like to order everything at once so when it gets here I can start working instead of waiting a month on something I didn't order the first time.

Anyhow, sorry for the incoherent rambling, and thanks for the help!

Tony


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 11, 2009)

old4570 said:


> Driver = This one
> 
> 
> Or = This one
> ...



Ah, you snuck in on me while I was replying to kosPap's post (I'd wandered away from the computer for awhile mid-reply). Checking out your links now...

Thanks!


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 11, 2009)

old4570 said:


> Driver = This one
> 
> 
> Or = This one
> ...



Now that I've had a chance to look that over, that looks perfect! I've got your thread bookmarked now for future reference. My ignorance is showing here, but I'm curious what you mean by sandwich driver? Is that a single board with components on both sides (like the one from shining beam) as opposed to dual board which would be two wired together? Also, when you say a lot of the DIY pills will not handle sandwich drivers, have you run across any that will? I ask because it would be nice to avoid having to buy a good drop-in and destroy it in the process of building this one if I could get the empty pill somewhere instead.

:thanks:for the help!

Tony


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## Norm (Jul 11, 2009)

Tony Hanna said:


> My ignorance is showing here, but I'm curious what you mean by sandwich driver? Is that a single board with components on both sides (like the one from shining beam) as opposed to dual board which would be two wired together?


When Matt says "sandwich driver" he means two boards wired together.
Matt's thread Sandwich Driver - It works - CandlePowerForums 

Empty P60s 
*Diameter 26mm Aluminum OP Reflector* 
*SMO Aluminum 26mm Reflector * 
There are others if you want to look around on DX or KD.

Norm


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## old4570 (Jul 11, 2009)

4 x SSC P7 and 1 MC-E 

Left to right ..

SSC p7 + 3Mode Driver from shiningbeam in a Ultrafire 502B
Same as above in L2 

SSC P7 + 5 mode KD driver in both remaining L2's 

Mini L2 has 5 mode KD driver + MC-E DX drop in .

The MC-E runs hotter than the SSC P7's ..

Remember the SSC P7 base is live [ part of the circuit ] and needs to be isolated .. 

Space in the pill is at a premium so pre-solder the tabs on the LED or the wires may not take hold properly .. Pre solder the wires ... 
Be very careful with the reflector , it may short out on the wires soldered to the LED , so depending on how clean your soldering is , you may need a nonconductive spacer / washer . I got some fiber tap washers that are thin enough .. and fit over the LED just right and stop any contact between the reflector and the wires connected to the LED ..

If you short it , you will fry your tail clicky .... because the amps will quickly climb to around 8A or more  
Something has to give as you approach 10A , better the tail clicky than the battery blowing up . 
So use a multimeter to fully test modes etc , and if you see the Amps going too high , you have a short . 

:thumbsup:


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## Norm (Jul 11, 2009)

old4570 said:


> ..
> If you short it , you will fry your tail clicky .... because the amps will quickly climb to around 8A or more
> Something has to give as you approach 10A , better the tail clicky than the battery blowing up .


A very good reason to use protected batteries Matt. 
Norm


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## old4570 (Jul 11, 2009)

Norm said:


> A very good reason to use protected batteries Matt.
> Norm



Yes - Indeed !! :whoopin:


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## kosPap (Jul 11, 2009)

Well this is a premature (since the whole info on vare DIY modules will be in a seperate thread next week)
but...

if you need a* deep* board socket you got to buy the DX 5955 *Seoul led* module....Then you combine that with a Cree reflector and you are GTG... I miked depth thursday night and it either goes to 8.2 or 8.4 deep


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## old4570 (Jul 11, 2009)

I did use one , and the [ is it copper ? ] ring was a little lose ..

I have another pill on order that looks deep [ ? ] 

I really want to use my own drivers if I can ...
Next one I hope will be 2.6A 3 mode , I really can live without strobe and SOS . 

I only plan on doing one more SSC P7 P60 drop in , and using a sandwich driver .

R3 and R4 Cree should be out shortly , and SST 50 LED's will hopefully become more widely available .. 

And Im looking at my A20 EDC for a SSC P7 mod as well , should be sweet !


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 13, 2009)

Norm said:


> When Matt says "sandwich driver" he means two boards wired together.
> Matt's thread Sandwich Driver - It works - CandlePowerForums
> 
> Empty P60s
> ...


Thanks for the clarification on that! So, I should be good with any of the empty P60 modules from DX or KD as long as I stick with a single board driver like the one from shiningbeam? I think I'm gonna take a crawl before I walk approach to this and just use a single board driver for the first one. 



old4570 said:


> Remember the SSC P7 base is live [ part of the circuit ] and needs to be isolated ..
> 
> Space in the pill is at a premium so pre-solder the tabs on the LED or the wires may not take hold properly .. Pre solder the wires ...
> Be very careful with the reflector , it may short out on the wires soldered to the LED , so depending on how clean your soldering is , you may need a nonconductive spacer / washer . I got some fiber tap washers that are thin enough .. and fit over the LED just right and stop any contact between the reflector and the wires connected to the LED ..
> ...



Thanks for the tips! I wonder why they included the base in the circuit? Also, what kind of glue did you use to glue the LED down? Something that's both an electrical insulator and thermally conductive has got to be some pretty specialized stuff right? As for the nonconductive washer, do you think something cut out of a piece of automotive gasket paper would work? If so I've got that covered.

Thanks Again,

Tony


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## old4570 (Jul 13, 2009)

Glue ????? :thinking:

No you solder the board in place .. ill take a picture ! ..

Matt






A much abused and used driver - Its powered 3 diff LED's now - Currently Luxeon K2 TFFC


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 13, 2009)

I think we've got a bit of a miscommunication.
I was referring to the non conductive thermal glue that you referenced in your tutorial post for attaching the LED itself to the brass. Just wondering where to get that as the closest I'd have is the usual heat sink paste for CPUs and Ford ignition modules. 




old4570 said:


> Glue ????? :thinking:
> 
> No you solder the board in place .. ill take a picture ! ..
> 
> Matt


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## old4570 (Jul 13, 2009)

Oh Ok ... 

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm

You want this stuff ....


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## Justin Case (Jul 13, 2009)

In terms of best thermal conductivity, you should follow CPFer yellow's advice and use thermal compound/paste (e.g., Arctic Alumina thermal compound) under the LED. Then use regular epoxy to glue the periphery of the LED to the heat sink to secure the emitter.

If you want to use thermal epoxy/adhesive, I would recommend Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive, not Arctic Silver thermal adhesive, as your general purpose thermal "glue". Arctic Silver is slightly capacitive, which could be bad if you used AS epoxy to pot any electronics like a driver.


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 14, 2009)

old4570 said:


> Oh Ok ...
> 
> http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
> 
> You want this stuff ....



Thanks! Looks like I can get it from newegg too. That's a bonus because I'll be ordering some stuff from them soon anyway.



Justin Case said:


> In terms of best thermal conductivity, you should follow CPFer yellow's advice and use thermal compound/paste (e.g., Arctic Alumina thermal compound) under the LED. Then use regular epoxy to glue the periphery of the LED to the heat sink to secure the emitter.
> 
> If you want to use thermal epoxy/adhesive, I would recommend Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive, not Arctic Silver thermal adhesive, as your general purpose thermal "glue". Arctic Silver is slightly capacitive, which could be bad if you used AS epoxy to pot any electronics like a driver.



I wonder if it's any harder to keep from accidentally shorting the P7 base to the pill using the paste/epoxy method? That would be the only thing I'd be worried about (and just my luck).


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## bshanahan14rulz (Jul 15, 2009)

most of these pastes and epoxies are technically non-conductive. I guess you could always test with a multimeter when you are done. Anybody know what the slug on p7 is electrically connected to?


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## Justin Case (Jul 16, 2009)

P7 slug is connected to the anode.


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## Justin Case (Jul 16, 2009)

Tony Hanna said:


> I wonder if it's any harder to keep from accidentally shorting the P7 base to the pill using the paste/epoxy method? That would be the only thing I'd be worried about (and just my luck).



Arctic Alumina thermal compound is non-conductive and regular epoxy is also non-conductive.

Are you worried about squishing down the LED and squeezing out the thermal compound when you screw the pill into the reflector? Not sure how that might happen since the epoxy is meant to secure the LED so it doesn't move.

Concerned that the AA thermal compound might dry out? I haven't seen any long-term data, but I did squeeze some out and left it on my desk exposed to the air for a couple of weeks. It stayed gooey. The shortcoming of this ad hoc test is that I didn't heat up the thermal compound. Maybe that would accelerate drying/hardening?

So a second piece of data that partially addresses this shortcoming is that I've taken a Cree P4 emitter on a star and put it down on a metal heat sink using AA thermal compound. Then I used Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy to fix the Cree P4 to the heat sink.

This LED is my test LED that I use to check driver boards for go/no-go function and drive current output. So there has been some heating up and cooling down of the LED, star, and heat sink, and thus also the AA thermal compound. Now, these checks don't last all that long, so total time under load could be only 30 min, in say 10 sec to 1 min increments. But the AA thermal compound is still gooey.

In any case, this is probably worrying about inconsequential increments. Regular Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive (epoxy) is probably sufficient, and the benefit of the extra thermal conductivity you get by using AA compound is probably nil. Maybe someday I'll build two LED Turbo Towers, one using AA epoxy and the other AA compound under the LED, characterize the towers in terms of driver output current and LED Vf, and put a thermocouple to the towers.

FYI, here's a little trick for applying the solder blobs that ground the driver to the brass pill. Besides making sure that the area to be soldered is clean and perhaps applying a flux pen to it, drop in a strand or two of solder-tinned wire to fill the gap between the driver and the brass pill. That's the gap that you are trying to jumper with the solder blob. With the gap filled with the tinned wire strand, now make your solder blob.


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## bshanahan14rulz (Jul 16, 2009)

justin, you know how when you use paste or epoxy to connect led with it's substrate (star, heatsink, etc) you are supposed to push down to squeeze as much paste/epoxy out of the gap? I think he is questioning how that wouldn't create an electrical contact somewhere in that joint.


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## old4570 (Jul 16, 2009)

bshanahan14rulz said:


> justin, you know how when you use paste or epoxy to connect led with it's substrate (star, heatsink, etc) you are supposed to push down to squeeze as much paste/epoxy out of the gap? I think he is questioning how that wouldn't create an electrical contact somewhere in that joint.



It might , which is why you need to test for a short before the epoxy setts too hard .


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## Justin Case (Jul 16, 2009)

bshanahan14rulz said:


> justin, you know how when you use paste or epoxy to connect led with it's substrate (star, heatsink, etc) you are supposed to push down to squeeze as much paste/epoxy out of the gap? I think he is questioning how that wouldn't create an electrical contact somewhere in that joint.


 
I use my DMM to check for continuity between LED+ and the heat sink. And if you use thermal compound under the LED, you have "infinite" time for any re-work, unlike the approx 5 min with thermal epoxy before it cures.


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 17, 2009)

Justin Case said:


> Are you worried about squishing down the LED and squeezing out the thermal compound when you screw the pill into the reflector? Not sure how that might happen since the epoxy is meant to secure the LED so it doesn't move.



That's it. Looking at old4570's tutorial, (if I understand it right) he used the reflector to center the led and hold it in place while the adhesive dried. I guess I was wondering which of the two options is more viscous and less likely to be displaced if I should get a little heavy handed during this step. I don't know why, but I wasn't thinking about immediately testing it and pulling it back apart if it was shorted.



> FYI, here's a little trick for applying the solder blobs that ground the driver to the brass pill. Besides making sure that the area to be soldered is clean and perhaps applying a flux pen to it, drop in a strand or two of solder-tinned wire to fill the gap between the driver and the brass pill. That's the gap that you are trying to jumper with the solder blob. With the gap filled with the tinned wire strand, now make your solder blob.



Thanks for that. I'll give it a shot.



bshanahan14rulz said:


> justin, you know how when you use paste or epoxy to connect led with it's substrate (star, heatsink, etc) you are supposed to push down to squeeze as much paste/epoxy out of the gap? I think he is questioning how that wouldn't create an electrical contact somewhere in that joint.



I knew I need to get it as thin as possible without shorting, I just wasn't thinking about being able to test and try again before the glue set If I messed up.



old4570 said:


> It might , which is why you need to test for a short before the epoxy setts too hard .



It seems I have a gift for overlooking the obvious sometimes. I'll do just that.:thumbsup:



Justin Case said:


> I use my DMM to check for continuity between LED+ and the heat sink. And if you use thermal compound under the LED, you have "infinite" time for any re-work, unlike the approx 5 min with thermal epoxy before it cures.



Perfect! Any recommendation on a particular type of epoxy for this method or will the normal stuff from the hardware store do?

Also, another (potentially stupid) question for you guys. Would it be possible to get a P7 that's already mounted on a star and grind the star down to fit the pill (maybe enlarge the pocket in the pill a bit too if needed)? Looking at the one on DX, it looks like there's a good bit of material that could be removed... Just thinking that might eliminate the possibility of shorting while also adding the extra mass of the star to aid in heat sinking.

I need to order some of this stuff soon so I can see it in person and answer some of my own questions for a change.

Thanks everybody!

Tony


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## Justin Case (Jul 17, 2009)

If you want to use Arctic Alumina thermal compound under the LED, then just use any hardware store epoxy to glue the periphery of the LED (or the little board on which an LED like a Cree is attached) to the heat sink to secure the emitter.

Otherwise, just get Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive (epoxy) and use that for all of your LED gluing needs.


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## old4570 (Jul 17, 2009)

Tony Hanna said:


> Also, another (potentially stupid) question for you guys. Would it be possible to get a P7 that's already mounted on a star and grind the star down to fit the pill (maybe enlarge the pocket in the pill a bit too if needed)? Looking at the one on DX, it looks like there's a good bit of material that could be removed... Just thinking that might eliminate the possibility of shorting while also adding the extra mass of the star to aid in heat sinking.
> 
> 
> 
> Tony



Not stupid , but the SSC P7 is already high enough to make the No of threads available to the reflector minimal , especially if a spacer is required between the LED and reflector .. SO the extra height of the base/star  [ BASE _ STAR - battlestar Gallactica -  ] 
Anyhow , the extra height of the :shakehead you know , might mean you cant screw on the reflector .. Test before gluing if going this rout . Might be a mighty big oooops otherwise . 

When gluing down the LED dont screw the reflector down too hard , just firm enough so you feel the LED hit the pill , then watch the left over mix for firmness , when its firm but still sticky , check for the short . 
:ironic:


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## Justin Case (Jul 17, 2009)

The problem with using a P7 on a star is that the stars are typically 20mm diameter, while the pill cavity is about 16mm diameter.

In any case, the star mass is so minimal that I don't see any useful benefit wrt heat sinking.

Same issue with an MC-E on a star. They come on 20mm diameter boards.

For a bare P7, do you have a drop-in kit that has a reflector opening that fits the P7? The P7 dome is 12mm diameter, compared to the usual ~6.9mm opening of a P60 drop-in reflector. The case height for a P7 is 2.3mm, which is about 0.5mm higher standoff vs a typical Cree XR-Es. Thus, as old4570 says, the pill will engage less of its threading with the reflector. In my various DX drop-ins, this 0.5mm amount would not matter. I would have plenty of threads engaging the reflector, even when including the thickness of an insulating ring to prevent the LED/driver wires from shorting against the bottom face of the reflector.

Thus, if your drop-in reflector opening can accommodate a P7, the mod should be straightforward.

A bare Cree MC-E should also fit with no problems.

A Cree XR-E on a typical rectangular substrate (measured thickness of about 0.79mm) that is reflow soldered to a 14mm base (measured thickness of about 1.04mm) is a total of about 5.44mm tall from bottom of the base to top of the dome. The reflector opening surrounds the dome and the metal Cree ring, and sits on top of the substrate and the base. Thus, the reflector sits about 1.83mm above the top face of the brass pill. The XR-E metal ring diameter, over which the reflector fits, is 6.8mm.

A Cree MC-E has a dome diameter of 6.36mm, so the ~6.9mm reflector opening should fit over the MC-E dome without interference.

The reflector would then sit on top of the MC-E's black plastic case, which is 1.45mm thick, less than the 1.83mm thickness of the XR-E's substrate plus base.

The challenges with the MC-E are to solder the terminals in 4P so that it looks electrically like your typical single-die Cree LED and to avoid shorting those little terminals to the brass pill when you glue down the MC-E to the pill.


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## kosPap (Jul 18, 2009)

old4570 said:


> Not stupid , but the SSC P7 is already high enough to make the No of threads available to the reflector minimal , especially if a spacer is required between the LED and reflector .. SO the extra height of the base/star [ BASE _ STAR - battlestar Gallactica - ]
> Anyhow , the extra height of the you know , might mean you cant screw on the reflector .. Test before gluing if going this rout . Might be a mighty big oooops otherwise .
> 
> When gluing down the LED dont screw the reflector down too hard , just firm enough so you feel the LED hit the pill , then watch the left over mix for firmness , when its firm but still sticky , check for the short .


 
Did you try the DIY P60 dropin that KD sells the one with the ribed sides?
It has a less room for a high board but it is deeper in the LED socket...

Want me to get some measurements of mine?


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## old4570 (Jul 18, 2009)

kosPap said:


> Did you try the DIY P60 dropin that KD sells the one with the ribed sides?
> It has a less room for a high board but it is deeper in the LED socket...
> 
> Want me to get some measurements of mine?



Yes Ive used it , its deep enough , but the top board is pushed up against the pill right opposite the LED , so will suffer a lot of heat ..

I swapped drivers sku.5955 [ P60 pill assembly ] , and put in my sandwich driver .. Seems to be running just fine ... 

I have another pill [ SKU:5955 ] on order + a SSC P7 LED ..
I have the parts needed to build a 3 mode sandwich driver ...

But then Ive been doing a lot of mods of late , so ill build the driver when time permits , and do one more P60 SSC P7 drop in . 

Then wait for SST-50 LED's to become available . 
Same with R3 and R4 Cree , anytime now .


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 19, 2009)

Ok, thanks guys!
I'll just order a base separately when I order the emitter so I can have a look at it. I'm sure (like Justin Case said) that there isn't enough mass to make much of a difference but I've been looking at it from the "every little bit" angle. Something along the lines of as much mass in the pill as I can get, good thermal path between the pill and reflector (thermal paste on the threads), a properly sized spacer between the drop-in and the light body for a tight fit (instead of the rolled up strip of aluminum soda can I'm using now), thermal paste between the body and head, and a custom head (either purpose built or welded up and machined down) with some really aggressive finning (take a look at the cylinder/head finning on some of the nitro rc car engines and you get the idea) to do a good job of passing the heat off to the air. 

All of that will probably never happen since I don't have access to a lathe to machine the head, but it's fun to think about.

Oh, and old4750, Good one with the BSG reference.

Thanks again,

Tony


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## kosPap (Jul 19, 2009)

well Lux measurements are pending but here is a concise table of the various P60 DIY modules that are available







Some more notes...the derrelight pills are deeper close to the DX 5955
The DL pill was driven by 2xAW16340s and all measurements were taken after 2+ mins from ON.

More to follow another time (beamshots too)


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 19, 2009)

Nice table!

I wonder how the DX 5955 would do with the P7? Since it tends toward flood, would the SMO reflector help with throw to sort of balance it out?

That's neat that you included compatibility with the DIY hosts! I want to pick up a few of those and make them up as Christmas presents. Maybe set up a couple of the 1x 18650/2x cr123 version with R2 pills and gift them with a couple sets of primary 123s. Of course I'll also have to put together some with MC-Es and 18650s for myself and a couple close friends. :thumbsup:


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## kosPap (Jul 19, 2009)

well I woner if the switch will take it...it is the standard for chinese lights small white one, the Ultrafire C-1 for example, and another member said it can take the amps...I dare not try it myself...

Now regrding the DX 5955 why don't you compare the SSC P4 and P7 beam patterns found in their pdf sheets? if tehy are the same the 5955 will be GTG...


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 20, 2009)

kosPap said:


> well I woner if the switch will take it...it is the standard for chinese lights small white one, the Ultrafire C-1 for example, and another member said it can take the amps...I dare not try it myself...


I'll give it a shot anyway. If the switch fails, maybe I can find one that's more robust to replace it with...



> Now regrding the DX 5955 why don't you compare the SSC P4 and P7 beam patterns found in their pdf sheets? if tehy are the same the 5955 will be GTG...



I tried downloading the data sheet on both the P4 and P7 and haven't had any luck. They're supposed to be .pdf files, but they come through as .pdf.html for some reason. Ah nevermind, I just deleted the .html extension and now they're opening as pdf just fine.

Ok, looking at the graphs side by side is enough to prove to me that I have no idea what I'm looking for. They're not exactly the same, but they look pretty close. Although what looks close to me might be a big difference to somebody that knows how to interpret the graphs.


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## kosPap (Jul 20, 2009)

I tried mysled but I got a query on korean lang installation... I quit

BTW the switch section of the aurora hosts is different and will fit no other/larger switch...Just in case...


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## Tony Hanna (Jul 20, 2009)

kosPap said:


> I tried mysled but I got a query on korean lang installation... I quit



I know what you did. Same thing happened to me. When you click on the little pdf icon beside the emitter you want to look at, it opens a second window. The two options in the second window are "download" and "add this spec". You want the "download" option. The "add this spec" option opens a dialog box in Korean. Once you download, the file is listed as .pdf.html (ex. W724C0.pdf.html). At that point it's simply a matter of removing the .html extension and it will open fine with a pdf reader. Pretty dang complicated just to open a spec sheet.



> BTW the switch section of the aurora hosts is different and will fit no other/larger switch...Just in case...



In that case, does DX sell an exact replacement incase I burn one? I don't remember reading about any switch failures in the thread about those but if it did happen, it would be nice to be able to get spares.:thumbsup:


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## RobertM (Jul 21, 2009)

Does anyone know if a Seoul P4 star will fit in the KD drop-in kit?

I'm looking to make some high-CRI drop-ins using the following:

KD OP 26mm kit
SSC S42182-S2 P4 LED (93 CRI)
700mA AMC7135

Should all of this work together? If I go with the star mounted P4, am I probably going to have to trim it a bit? Also, this might be a dumb question, but there wouldn't be anything on the bottom of the LED PCB that I would need to electrically isolate, correct? I should be able to just use my Arctic Thermal compound on the bottom of the board, soldering everything together, and be good?

BTW, I plan to power these by either 1x 3.7v Li-ion or 2x CR123 primary cells.

Anything I'm overlooking?

Thanks,
Robert


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## kosPap (Jul 21, 2009)

RobertM said:


> Does anyone know if a Seoul P4 star will fit in the KD drop-in kit?
> 
> I'm looking to make some high-CRI drop-ins using the following:
> 
> ...


 
as far as i know....the drop-in accepts 16mm led boards....you will have to trim but there is a good chance that you'll reach the pads..in that case clip the off and solder the wires to what is left of...sorry but I cannot chenck my boarded seoul P4 right now...
also indeed the PCB solves the SSC P4 slug problem...

But wit the led contacts so highyou must take soem more care on isolating it from sorting by the reflector...

But 2..why this KD kit? this is fro Cree leds...why don't you buy the DX SSX one? (see above)



Tony Hanna said:


> IIn that case, does DX sell an exact replacement incase I burn one? I don't remember reading about any switch failures in the thread about those but if it did happen, it would be nice to be able to get spares.:thumbsup:


 
No...of all the chinese switches, that one I have never found on sale...otherwise, with a replecement availbale I would already tried myself....


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