# EagleTac Titanium D-Series



## UpstandingCitizen (Dec 8, 2011)

I saw a thread about this earlier, but it looks like it got 86'd. Not sure why, but I thought I'd create another thread in case anyone missed it.

Anyway, it looks like EagleTac will be putting out two new Ti L.E. models in the D-series.

www.eagletac.com/html/d25ti/features/index.html


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## kreisler (Dec 8, 2011)

UpstandingCitizen said:


> but it looks like it got 86'd. Not sure why,


yes i was missing it too. i contacted the mods via PM and was informed that it got deleted because we were talking about prices and dealers and that's against forum rules and also posts by dealers themselves (e.g. Tod) are not allowed on CPF. On CPFMP yes, on CPF no.

Eagtac has been improving these days: new website, new series, latest LEDs (XP-G S2, XM-L U2), limited Titanium edition, G25 model. Maybe we're gonna see some D-series models with clickies (as suggested by the PDF-catalog). In the most recent past Eagtac has been one of the most exciting flashlight company out there, yay!!

_*[parts of post deleted - Rule 8 violations]*_


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## bigchelis (Dec 8, 2011)

Now these are nice. Pure copper heat sinks to boot. This is likely a first in production lights. Where do I pay


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## kreisler (Dec 8, 2011)

bigchelis said:


> Where do I pay


stop it. no discussion or mentioning of dealers. 
and by the way, it's not pure copper but titanium. lol


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## HooNz (Dec 8, 2011)

:sigh: , i thought i was goin loony tunes , so that's what happened .

Anyway i sent a mail to USA store for a postage quote , as i gather the free post would be within the states .

If i have typed anything not within a policy in this post , i claim ignorance :thinking:


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## HooNz (Dec 8, 2011)

I just had a sudden thought or recall!

Last night on the BBC website (i wonder if mentioning "anything" is now verboten) that there was a report on the Usa FCC or FAA about it's going to be or is now unlawful to mention anything about anything if it involves another party or sales or impacts sales , and said things were either blogs or opinions , so it was worded like (i'm no lawyer) ,if one has a opinion but if it mentions sales or impacts sales (assumed) negitively to another party then it's Verboten , or something like that , in my opinion  ...


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## Vortus (Dec 8, 2011)

I was looking for that thread too. Didnt even know about these till I saw that. Ordered a Ti D25a XML U2. Looking forward to it. Am expecting it to work as well as our others ET lights. Kinda wish the xpg was an R5. I like those. But the wife likes her xmls so that's what we got. Be interesting to see the inevitible comparisons with the other similar Ti lights. 

I think she's hoping the head is compatible with her pd1 leef clicky.


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## Vortus (Dec 8, 2011)

The body is Ti. The heat sink is copper.


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## orbital (Dec 8, 2011)

_*[post deleted - Rule 8 violation. Read the Rule - take it to PM. - DM51]*_


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## DM51 (Dec 8, 2011)

Members are reminded to acquaint themselves with Rule 8. If you have a question about any action taken by a moderator, you must not post it in open forum. Take it to PM or email.


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## bigchelis (Dec 8, 2011)

Vortus said:


> The body is Ti. The heat sink is copper.



Yes, thank you.

I have purchased copper heatsink E-series lights from MIlky and others and the heatsinks are very expensive but offer the best performance. The only issue is copper is expensive and hard to machine I guess cause did I mention they are expensive.

Now, to have a production light out of Titanium and a Pure Copper Heatsink........I am definitely getting this one. Only problem is, should I get the AA size or both.

bigC


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## HIDblue (Dec 8, 2011)

Great looking lights...whish they offered it with a clicky.


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## lautamas (Dec 8, 2011)

D25A version supports (officially) 14500!
XM-L U2 for some spill and S2 version for some throw. Both Cool and Neutral are available. Awesome varieties from EAGTEC (yes..they change the name into somehow EAGTAC in the new D series)


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## bigchelis (Dec 8, 2011)

lautamas said:


> D25A version supports (officially) 14500!
> XM-L U2 for some spill and S2 version for some throw. Both Cool and Neutral are available. Awesome varieties from EAGTEC (yes..they change the name into somehow EAGTAC in the new D series)



I just noticed the Direct Drive off 14500...

Very cool, cause IMR 14500 can generate well into 3A to the XM-L on DD, now it makes sense why they choose a Pure Copper heatsink.

I say at least 500~600 OTF via XM-L....wohoooo


bigC


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## orbital (Dec 8, 2011)

+

DM51, thanks for the PM,
you went above and beyond for an explanation.

________________________

~~` I do hope this Ti version will come in a 18650 model,[email protected] only 4.25" length 
That's a manageable EDC size w/ acceptable throw 

*EagleTac, make a Ti D-Series in a 18650*


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## BLUE LED (Dec 12, 2011)

They look really nice, I will be buying one or two.


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## TMCGLASSON36 (Dec 12, 2011)

Just paid for mine! D25C S2 with DD RCR123 WOW! Can't wait are supposed to start shipping Monday!:thumbsup:. Might have to pick up the XML U2 just to see how the beam is..


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## dirtech (Dec 12, 2011)

I hope the pocket clips on those share no similarity to those on the nitecore IFE series. They look similar.


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## Rutger (Dec 17, 2011)

I asked eagletac a few questions about running the D25AM Ti on a 14500 rechargeable battery. Thought i'd share their answers on here, maybe it will help others too.



> Lumen output is around 700-800 led lumen with XM-L U2 when battery is fully charged. It will then slowly drop to around 500 lumen and then lower (direct driven). Runtime is around 30 minutes. It only has low, and medium/high become direct driven (high). Titanium indeed has bad thermal conductivity. We install a pure copper underneath the LED star (with high thermal conductivity isolation layer) to ensure good thermal conductivity. We recommend limit the usage to one minute each when the battery is freshly charged, and 5 minutes each after a couple discharge. The latest batch uses 0D U2, color temperature is around 6500-6800k


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## shipwreck (Dec 17, 2011)

I preordered the 123 battery version too. Can't wait to get it in hand


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## OneBigDay (Dec 22, 2011)

Any news, tips, tricks, or shipping notices?


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## purelite (Dec 22, 2011)

the question I have are these gonna be gritty and hard to twist on and off? I had a Ti Illuminati once and it was a nightmare to use, really almost usless to me. I know Ti Galls though and it will probably be the same here.

I like the looks but am always hesitant to buy a 1st run anymore. seems like the 1st run of every light has problems especially the made in China ones

also when are they gonna ship? Its been awhile since the announcment


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## OneBigDay (Dec 22, 2011)

purelite said:


> the question I have are these gonna be gritty and hard to twist on and off? I had a Ti Illuminati once and it was a nightmare to use, really almost usless to me. I know Ti Galls though and it will probably be the same here.
> 
> I like the looks but am always hesitant to buy a 1st run anymore. seems like the 1st run of every light has problems especially the made in China ones
> 
> also when are they gonna ship? Its been awhile since the announcment



I am hearing purelite on both these counts. Agree on the Illuminati Ti about the threads being really bad. I like the light but never use it because of the "tight" feeling the twisty has along with the threads. On the other hand I have ITP A3 in Ti and the threads are very acceptable, not as smooth as stainless, but well within reason. It also gets better with age/use.

I hadn't thought so much about the first run thing but maybe I should have. I'm thinking zebralight SC600 (narrow battery tube, no clip, no lanyard hole) and fresh off the press V10R Ti2 all scratched up. Ouch.

In any case I am optimistic about these.


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## houtex (Dec 22, 2011)

I have a Fenix Ti twisty. Arrived at home very rough at first. 2 drops of Nano oil and everything turns fine now.


I have 3 Ti lights on order. They are all scheduled to arrive AFTER Xmas.! I know,..... you all feel really bad for me.


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## fyrstormer (Dec 22, 2011)

Oh for god's sake. Looking at the specs now. Does it have enough modes? "Lo > Md > Hi > Lo > Md > Hi > Strobe 1 > Strobe 2 > Flash (Hi) > Flash S.O.S. > Flash Beacon > Flash (Lo)" And you have to switch through them on a multi-twist interface? With gritty, hard-to-break-in Ti-on-Ti threads? And no regulation when using Li-Ion batteries? What a waste of perfectly good resources. The world does not need another cheap Ti light with a boatload of useless extra modes and a lack of real usable features.


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## RedForest UK (Dec 22, 2011)

It's basically the same simple ui as the Quark Mini series.. 

You only get Low/Med/High unless you go mental on the twisting for a while.


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## houtex (Dec 22, 2011)

fyrstormer said:


> Oh for god's sake. Looking at the specs now. Does it have enough modes? "Lo > Md > Hi > Lo > Md > Hi > Strobe 1 > Strobe 2 > Flash (Hi) > Flash S.O.S. > Flash Beacon > Flash (Lo)" And you have to switch through them on a multi-twist interface? With gritty, hard-to-break-in Ti-on-Ti threads? And no regulation when using Li-Ion batteries? What a waste of perfectly good resources. The world does not need another cheap Ti light with a boatload of useless extra modes and a lack of real usable features.



IDK, I just got the AA/14500 version and the finish is very nice. The modes are not that bad. 

I can't afford a McG,or 007. This little light and others like it get me in the Ti game. Someday I'll save up for a Tri-V. As far as wasting rsources, some would say Ti flashlights period would be a waste.


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## orbital (Dec 22, 2011)

fyrstormer said:


> Oh for god's sake. Looking at the specs now. Does it have enough modes? "Lo > Md > Hi > Lo > Md > Hi > Strobe 1 > Strobe 2 > Flash (Hi) > Flash S.O.S. > Flash Beacon > Flash (Lo)" And you have to switch through them on a multi-twist interface? With gritty, hard-to-break-in Ti-on-Ti threads? And no regulation when using Li-Ion batteries? What a waste of perfectly good resources. The world does not need another cheap Ti light with a boatload of useless extra modes and a lack of real usable features.



*Did you just make all this up?*

Someone mentions gritty threads on a Illuminati, and all the sudden EagleTacs have it,...incredible 
The A400M driver for the AA model is optimized for 1.5V = flat regulation
~ All the other models have flat regulation w/ Li-Ions

On my smooth threaded 18650 D-Series, the output never changes, in looong extended runs.

To get to the sos type modes, 
you just go through the standard modes twice,..call it partially hidden.

Last thing, one handed operation is very easy.


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## fyrstormer (Dec 22, 2011)

What do you mean, "did I make all this up"? No I didn't make it up, the specs are right there on the EagleTac website. The website states that the lights are compatible with RCR123s or 14500s respectively, but notes that they will _both _be direct-driven when using those batteries, meaning they use boost-only drivers with no ability to trim excess voltage.

Also, the fact that the blinky modes require 6 mode changes to access is perhaps a minor inconvenience at best, but having to _twist the head_ 6 times instead of tapping a switch 6 times makes it much more irritating. Having to rapidly twist a head with Ti-on-Ti threads makes it even worse.

I own somewhere around 25 titanium flashlights, 15 of which are McGizmos. Overkill, yes, I'm aware, but I do know the properties of titanium as a result. Titanium hates lubrication and sheds it very easily, and twisting the head back-and-forth several times in quick succession is an excellent way to make it shed the lubricant you've applied to it. I developed my own lube for Ti-on-Ti threads because none of the ones I could buy online held up as well as I'd hoped. Ti-on-Ti is acceptable for threads that only see occasional use when changing batteries, but for twisty lights, Brass-on-Ti is far superior -- they don't even require expensive fancy lube, just plain old sewing-machine oil.

The fact that EagleTac made a titanium light that uses a complex multi-twist interface and they didn't even use a self-polishing metal for one of the sets of threads tells me this is a "me-too" project -- they wanted to tap the titanium-flashlight-enthusiast market as quickly and inexpensively as possible.


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## fyrstormer (Dec 22, 2011)

houtex said:


> I can't afford a McG,or 007. This little light and others like it get me in the Ti game. Someday I'll save up for a Tri-V. As far as wasting rsources, some would say Ti flashlights period would be a waste.


I can appreciate wanting to "get in the Ti game" and I won't argue with you on that point.

Whether a titanium flashlight is a waste of resources compared to an aluminum flashlight depends on 1) whether it lasts a long time because of its hard casing, and 2) whether it gets used a lot because it's lighter and easier to carry than steel. As for useless extra modes, I think those are a waste of resources no matter what, because the extra circuits require expensive and very rare minerals (unlike titanium, which is more plentiful than iron in the Earth's crust) that would be better used for productive machines. IMO, of course.


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## Morelite (Dec 24, 2011)

I received the XP-G S2 version today and the tint is very nice and white no hint of green or blue the threads are also very smooth and almost to easy to turn.


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## OneBigDay (Dec 28, 2011)

It seems not a lot of interest in this, but for the benefit of all you lurkers out there here are my initial thoughts of the D25A mini XML... The comments given are just my opinion and should be filtered as such.

*The good*


Very nice looking.
titanium (implies strength and lighter than stainless). Bling is here if you like it.
Great clip
Lanyard attachment points that allows tailstanding without detaching split ring or lanyard (perfect design IMO)
Very compact for 1xAA
tint is good for high binned XM-L (mine is cool white, can't comment on neutral option)
Twisty moves easily without grinding even though Ti threads.
Good output on NiMH, beam profile is as expected for XM-L in tiny reflector (i.e. floody).
Wide input voltage range.
Nice Holster and lanyard come as part of the package
Knurling is perfect. It has a slight grip to it, but not a grip that will ruin your clothes. A lot of CPFers seem to like more aggressive knurling so this is a very subjective point, but I am very happy with the smoother texture on the light.
 
*The Bad*


UI a little flaky. Sometimes gets no mode changes or double mode changes, also there is a slight delay between mode changes that I have not seen on my other twisties. Not sure how to describe it or what it is, but it has a different feel than any other twisty I have. The delay is very slight, but it is there.
O-rings are super thin. The o-ring on the tailcap side is so thin it wants to buckle up just from the friction of screwing the two pieces apart and then back together. It is so thin I wonder if it can do it's job?
Because of the reverse polarity protection being a ring on the head, it only accepts button top cells, and I was hoping the titanium innovations 14505 cells would fit. 3v input is still within the published "regulated" input voltage, and I'm sure the output would be somewhat greater than on NiMH. Unfortunately the nipple on the top of the 14505 cells is too short, and so it does not make contact. There may be a simple fix but I'm just reporting that out of the box they do not work together. This was disappointing for me as I thought this light with 3v primaries would be a great match.
Here is where the criticism gets interesting. The head on this has a wobble to it. I wanted it not to be so, and also wanted to find the same in some of my other twisties, but this is the only one that has this kind of wobble. Alone this might not be a big deal, but depending on how far you have unscrewed the head in the "off" position, the head wobble can cause the light to flicker or momentarily turn on. It takes somewhere around 90 degrees or more of head travel towards the off position until wobbling the head will not cause flicker. IMO that is too far for a well made light. For those planning to EDC this in a front jeans pocket, I would think this is not an acceptable problem to have. If you are going to use the holster, or as a nightstand light, or use in a bag or packed location that doesn't receive any pressure, then this may not be an issue. This same issue was reported by a couple others in the marketplace thread on this light.
Holster has a snap on it and the snap is not covered on the inside. This would probably scratch the light with normal hoster use, without some small modification to the holster.
All things considered, I still think this is a nice little light. The price point along with some of the other positives still make me lean towards more good than bad on this light, but the head wobble is not too cool.

I would love to hear others thoughts who got one over the past couple days?


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## theix (Dec 29, 2011)

Hmm...I'm deciding if I'm gonna get one of D25 (C or A) but the wobbling head issue makes me think twice.


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## kreisler (Dec 29, 2011)

OneBigDay said:


> but depending on how far you have unscrewed the head in the "off" position, the head wobble can cause the light to flicker or momentarily turn on. It takes somewhere around 90 degrees or more of head travel towards the off position until wobbling the head will not cause flicker.


a thicker o-ring should reduce the wobble. all of my AA/AAA flashlights, twisty or clicky, have some amount of play in the head threads. the head wobbles until shortly before it is fully tightened, and exerting pressure on the head would establish the electrical connection for a minimally unscrewed head. 90 degrees is 1/4 of a full turn. on my Titanium iTP A3 (has smooth threads, yay!) it's clearly less than 90 degrees .. but not *much* less. maybe 80 degrees.

are the threads smooth? this might be a common concern on any company's Ti lights.


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## purelite (Dec 29, 2011)

wonder if they intentionally put some slop in the threads to minimize the Titanium galling and gritty thread problem of the past Ti twisty lights?


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## OneBigDay (Dec 29, 2011)

I agree that a slightly fatter O-ring could reduce the problem. I have some DX o-rings but they look a bit too fat. This isn't exactly my first priority in life's gauntlet, but I will see if I can find something at the hardware store and report back if success. Anybody know of a good US based website (for reasonable delivery time) that sells onesy/twosy o-rings in specific sizes?

The thing is, my iTP A3 Ti gets a lot of use and it is much more solid feeling in the head, and I get solid mode changes consistently with 45-60 degree rotations. Yes there is a little head play, but I would still describe it as solid feeling. I have a quark mini with a grass green tint and the head is rock solid even in the on position.

I must admit though that with the nice output, great beam profile, great clip, and knurling that is not abrasive - there is still more to like than not about the D25. Hopefully I didn't come off like this is a piece of junk because they have done many things right. But the looser than typical head just does not bring confidence in pocket carry. I will carry for a while and see if my opinion changes. I hope others will report in their opinions. May be I need to reset my expectations?

Also agree that the nice smooth feeling of this twisty is probably counterbalanced by the tightness/sloppiness of the head. Could be one of those can't have your cake and eat it too scenarios. :thinking:


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## AaronG (Dec 29, 2011)

Maybe if reports of sloppy heads gets back to Eagletac they could issue a better fitting O-ring? It would be easier if they experimented with o-ring sizes and then mailed out replacements.

It does seem like they got most things right on this design if they can figure out the snags


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## Nake (Dec 29, 2011)

. Anybody know of a good US based website (for reasonable delivery time) that sells onesy/twosy o-rings in specific sizes?[/QUOTE said:


> Try here; http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-28/ring-o-dsh-ring-oring/Detail
> 
> edit; I got the D25CM Ti, no excessive looseness, even with the O- ring removed.


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## Fitz (Dec 30, 2011)

No wobble on mine, it's pretty snug with a little of that titanium "grittiness" when tightening or loosening the head. need two hands to turn it on. Solid and good looking little light.


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## houtex (Jan 2, 2012)




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## Morelite (Jan 2, 2012)

houtex said:


>



Nice job, you have better luck than I, My first try at flame coloring only got me brown like this ring I made.


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## houtex (Jan 2, 2012)

Washed it with Dawn, it gets grease out of the way, then hit it with the blow dryer. holding it by the threads with some needle nose pliers and I used my wife's creme brule torch.


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## purelite (Jan 3, 2012)

I just found out I won one of these puppies.

I will add my thoughts once I get it in my sweaty little hands!!


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## jamie.91 (Jan 3, 2012)

Can the as version run a 14500? And if so how bright?

Thanks 
Jamie


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## mohanjude (Jan 3, 2012)

Got mine - D25C - no head wobble but 'gritty' when twisting head. There is definite hesitation when changing modes. I find that you just need to twist a quater to 1/8th of a turn just like a little flick rather than turn to change the modes (like half pressing the clicky)

Overall I think it is nice torch for the money - very bright, compact and feels solid.


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## EPVQ30 (Jan 4, 2012)

i think sunwayman makes a nicer ti light.


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## purelite (Jan 4, 2012)

Houtex, how much direct or indirect hest do you use to get that coloring? I would use a plumbing style blow torch to do this but can you get the Titanium too hot and is putting the flame directy on the metal how you get it to change?


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## houtex (Jan 4, 2012)

I used a creme brule torch(sp). The flame was right up on it. .5inches,as soon as i saw a red glow I moved on to the next spot.

This was my ifrst time trying this. You kinda have to say "to hell with it!" and just try. I had some cool ,clean, filtered wated near by an in it went when I felt i had it all cover with heat. Took about 5-7 minutes to do the whole battery tube.


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## octaf (Jan 4, 2012)

Vortus said:


> The body is Ti. The heat sink is copper.



Do you know what kind of Ti's exactly ?


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## timbo114 (Jan 4, 2012)

purelite said:


> I just found out I won one of these puppies.
> 
> I will add my thoughts once I get it in my sweaty little hands!!


Are you aware that you've also won a EagleTac G25C2 from PTS?


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## Fitz (Jan 4, 2012)

EPVQ30 said:


> i think sunwayman makes a nicer ti light.



That may be true, but it also costs almost 3x as much as these lights, is bigger and heavier (83mm vs 69mm long and 46 grams vs. 28 grams) and uses a Cree R5 emitter vs. an XML. Depends on your budget and tastes, both have advantages and disadvantages. Magnetic control ring on the Sunwayman, much better clip on the Eagletac, etc. Best to just get both...


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## theix (Jan 5, 2012)

houtex said:


> I used a creme brule torch(sp). The flame was right up on it. .5inches,as soon as i saw a red glow I moved on to the next spot.
> 
> This was my ifrst time trying this. You kinda have to say "to hell with it!" and just try. I had some cool ,clean, filtered wated near by an in it went when I felt i had it all cover with heat. Took about 5-7 minutes to do the whole battery tube.



I decided it get one of this torch to work on the D25C Ti which should arrive at me in a few days.






Can you post your result houtex? I read different temperature gives different result in colors.


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## Vortus (Jan 5, 2012)

octaf said:


> Do you know what kind of Ti's exactly ?



Nope. Never asked that. Reckon I can though. ET usually responds in a day or two. The dealer answers within hours though if they don't know they'll have to ask ET. 

For its price point I think it's quite a deal. ET also always, for me anyway, have clean white tints. The XML neutrals are apparently in as well, though I ordered cool white.


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## Vortus (Jan 7, 2012)

Well, after playing with it for a bit, pretty happy with it. I got the D25A Cool XML. Reckon ill give my own mini review along with a small comparison to the only similar lights I have, an Olight T10 XPG r5 and a Leef/Fenix PD1. The D25 is about 1/4 in shorter than the Olight and about 2/3 as big around. Very similar size wise to the JB CL-E I used to have.

Beam
Though its a 6k cool, its alot more neutral than the XPG R5 in the olight, almost warm. Kinda wonder if I didn't end up with a neutral despite what the box says. Pretty sweet actually so I am happy. It has a hot spot, but pretty big, definitely more flood than throw. Hehe The XML looks pretty big in there, and side by side with the XPG its obvious the XPG version would throw more. The beam is wider than the PD1, even with the PD1 having diffuser film on it (to smooth the cree rings). Il post up a beam comparison if interested, though only camera is an iphone, not exactly gonna be high res.

Size/Feel
Being my first Ti, it weighed more than I thought it would. Its still light weight, about the same as the olight (which is about the same as most other cr123 small singles out there). As mentioned by others, a really nice clip is standard, and removable, I'd wager some of arewethereyetdads (dads free screw offer) screws would fill those holes for those that prefer clipless. Easy enough to use one handed for me with nice knurling. I can see where this would fit well into folks pockets. 

Modes/Use/Build
Some talked about a flaky UI, which I do not get. Each mode change is consistent and instant for me. Between a 1/8 and a 1/4 head turn to change the modes. Once I figured out the pattern, its pretty simple. Don't want the blinky modes? A pause while changing starts back at low. I turn mine a full turn when off, as I have had others rotate themselves on in the past. Only if you barely turn it will the wobble make it come on. And I discovered, this is secret bonus. This slight looseness gives the light a momentary switch. Turning the head a bit from on, using my thumb to press down I can turn it on and change modes really fast. Use the thumb to change, then pinch with the pointer and lock down into mode I want. Or just use as a momentary. *shrug* It actually turned into a bonus for me anyway. The Orings could be a bit bigger, and come time to change them I prob will go bigger. The exterior was well done and it was scratch/blemish free. Was being the operative word. When turning it on at first, it did feel almost like one of my other lights would come time for a badly needing clean and lube. Not real rough, just a bit scratchy. Gave it a good cleaning and lube, helped a bit. And alot of use seems to have helped even more. Over time I think it will smooth out.


Mods?
Putting some trits or glowpower/epoxy would be simple enough. Plenty of room on there now against the inside edge. Though I think some of the custom makers could make a nice tail for it with machined trit slots. The head might also be able to be split at the first groove from the top and the guts examined or modified. I cannot be sure though on that, Ill leave that to others. As shown above, heated up right makes it pretty as well.

Extras
The case is nice and surprisingly, a hard case. Like the adjustable velcro belt strap, never liked those plastic D rings, though it has one as well. Well, it used to till I cut it off. The snap. The snap on the inside is exposed, however, and maybe others are different, but mine is sunk in deep into the padding and will lever touch the light itself. Though I can see it hitting the clip. Came with an extra O ring as well. 

Overall, I think its quite a good deal.


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## Tiggercat (Jan 7, 2012)

Got my D25CM Ti - sweet light, no wobble, very gritty threads, even after SuperLube. Standard D25C is butter smooth. I also don't see a difference in output between medium and high.


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## FlashlightsNgear.com (Jan 7, 2012)

I havent seen any of the wobble from the heads but the "grittiness" I have seen but gets much smoother after a little use, normal for most lights made out of Titanium. These are very nicely done, two thumbs up for Eagletac!!


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## Vortus (Jan 7, 2012)

At least for mine, the slight wobble has to be pushed to happen. IE if your holding the tail and lean it, or shake it side to side its not gonna happen. Have to push it with some force. Hehe To me the only slightly irritating part of the light is the *EAGTAC* printed on the one side. There is also a significant difference in the modes brightness using alkaline, eneloops and lion primaries. Don't have any 14500's to use so dunno bout those. On high with an eneloop it gets a little warm, so in a direct drive mode with a 14500 I imagine this little sucker gets hot fast.


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## mohanjude (Jan 7, 2012)

I have to admit that the grittiness is improving following use. For the money spent this torch is turning out to be excellent value. The purpose made Holster that is solid and well formed is just perfect and adds even more value to the package.

Sent from my ViewPad7 using Tapatalk


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## purelite (Jan 7, 2012)

most twisty lites will have some thread wobble. even the aluminium ones do. I can get my LD15 to wobble and come on like that also .


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## shipwreck (Jan 7, 2012)

I just got my D25C mini titanium in today. Pretty nice


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## shipwreck (Jan 7, 2012)

Here is my mandatory pic... I will say that on Turbo, I am surprised at how much light this little sucker puts out...


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## Vortus (Jan 8, 2012)

http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff158/Mandurath/Flashlight/photo-1.jpg

Here is a quick white wall shot. In case I fail is the link up above. Well, my editing didnt show up for some reason. The "top" light is a Fenix PD1 with diffuser film on cr123, the "middle" is the D25AM Ti on a alkaline, the "bottom" is a Olight T10 XPG R5 on a cr123.


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## tigerledz (Jan 8, 2012)

Got mine too, very pleased in the lil light that could...


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## KDOG3 (Jan 9, 2012)

Let me ask a quick question Does the d25c run on primaries? The website makes it seem like it only runs on rcr's. Also who would be a good vendor to purchase from?


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## mohanjude (Jan 9, 2012)

It runs fine on primaries - in fact mine came bundled with a Eagletac Branded primary which is more Bright than I need!!


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## ViciousV (Jan 9, 2012)

Hi All,

I received mine today, and I really like it... so far.

I have a question to those with the D25C Ti XM-L U2. When switching modes I get this sequence:
*Low->Med->Turbo->Low->Med->Turbo->Strobe->*_Alternating Frequency Strobe_*->Flash->*_Rapid SOS_*->SOS->Beacon->Low-Flash*

There seems to be 2 extra modes in the sequence (denoted by italics).  The alternating frequency strobe is a fast strobe then a slow strobe (faster than the "Flash") mode. I have the standard D25C and it doesn't exhibit this sequence.

Anyone else experience this? It is defective?


Thanks!


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## shipwreck (Jan 9, 2012)

I don't have mine in front of me, but I think you are correct.

Way too much twisting to get into those modes, IMHO.

The low and turbo are my favs. But, I don't plan to use mine much. I just always wanted a titanium light.

For actual use, I prefer a rear button for activation. I'll twist a light sometimes - to keep the button from being activated by accident. But, overalll, I prefer the button over twisties


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## ViciousV (Jan 9, 2012)

shipwreck said:


> I don't have mine in front of me, but I think you are correct.
> 
> Way too much twisting to get into those modes, IMHO.
> 
> ...



I've been EDC'ing the non-titanium version and find I use low and medium most of the time. High occasionally. I never use the special modes. The Ti version may very well become a safe queen too. I wanted it due to the fact it was Ti and I have the standard version.


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## KDOG3 (Jan 9, 2012)

Well I couldnt take it anymore - I ordered the Ti D25C, ships out today, priority.Cant wait to get my paws on it. I kinda hope they come out with a 2AA body for it. What I *REALLY* want is the 1AA version with the larger head for more throw.


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## ViciousV (Jan 9, 2012)

KDOG3 said:


> Well I couldnt take it anymore - I ordered the Ti D25C, ships out today, priority.Cant wait to get my paws on it. I kinda hope they come out with a 2AA body for it. What I *REALLY* want is the 1AA version with the larger head for more throw.



Kdog, you'll have to let me know if you have those "extra" modes like I mentioned a few post up. The manual that came with mine doesn't mention them. I wonder if it's a "limited edition" feature.


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## ViciousV (Jan 9, 2012)

ViciousV said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I received mine today, and I really like it... so far.
> 
> ...



Holy crap, Never mind, I just saw on the EagleTac website the modes I just described.... would have been nice to have had that info included with the product!


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## FlashlightsNgear.com (Jan 9, 2012)

KDOG3 said:


> Well I couldnt take it anymore - I ordered the Ti D25C, ships out today, priority.Cant wait to get my paws on it. I kinda hope they come out with a 2AA body for it. What I *REALLY* want is the 1AA version with the larger head for more throw.



The S2 version has really good throw for its size and using a RCR123 its amazing compared to running on a regular CR123.


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## KDOG3 (Jan 9, 2012)

Wait wait wait..... Does anyone else see that the input voltage for the D25C starts at only .8v? That means it would run off a single AA? Correct? I dont know if it would be the same for the Ti version since it has a newer driver but if they made a single AA body for it that would be AWESOME. That way I could have the AA version with more throw.


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## KDOG3 (Jan 10, 2012)

Well I sent them an email suggesting the 1AA body idea. I will let you all know what they say.


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## Denix (Jan 11, 2012)

Got mine a few days ago. Great looking light, threads a bit gritty.

Mine seems to behave strangely though. If I twist it on it goes to low. If I twist rapidly off and on, it always stays on low, even if I do it very quickly. However, if I really ram it on and off forcibly, then it switches modes like it's supposed to. I really have to do it hard to get it to switch. If I do it lightly (but still rapidly) it always stays on low. Also, I tried it with a 14500 and I only get a high mode. The light gets burning hot after about 30 seconds. I was expecting a low mode, but I only get high or strobe.

Anyone else notice this with theirs?

Thanks.

Guy


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## Fitz (Jan 11, 2012)

I have to twist back to tight fairly hard to get mine to change levels as well or I get Low/Low/Med or High (not much difference between Med and High, hard to tell)


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## Zeruel (Jan 11, 2012)

Received my D25A XM-L. It has distinctive scratches around the body where the engraving is, good thing it's intended to be a user. Tried using 14500, will not allow low mode. There is thread play, not more than usual comparing to some lights I have.


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## ViciousV (Jan 11, 2012)

Denix said:


> Got mine a few days ago. Great looking light, threads a bit gritty.
> 
> Mine seems to behave strangely though. If I twist it on it goes to low. If I twist rapidly off and on, it always stays on low, even if I do it very quickly. However, if I really ram it on and off forcibly, then it switches modes like it's supposed to. I really have to do it hard to get it to switch. If I do it lightly (but still rapidly) it always stays on low. Also, I tried it with a 14500 and I only get a high mode. The light gets burning hot after about 30 seconds. I was expecting a low mode, but I only get high or strobe.
> 
> ...



Mine is a bit more touchy/finicky when switching modes than my standard D25C. I attribute that to the titanium on titanium threads. I don't think titanium benefits from lube as much as aluminum does. I've put silicone grease on mine and it helped some.


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## Denix (Jan 12, 2012)

Thanks for the responses guys,

Bummer about the low mode on 14500's. From the forum I gathered that the 14500 allowed for low and high, which would have been perfect. Not very useful with a high mode only that gets too hot after a few minutes. Oh well, at least it's bright on primaries.

Guy


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## purelite (Jan 12, 2012)

Ok, I also won an Eagletac D25a aa light in Titanium. Yeah, I had a good Christmas!!! 

My opinions so far on this one are a bit mixed. I have had limited experience with Titanium twisty lights in the past. This light exibits some of the same qualities as the others I have had the chance to handle and use.

Fit/finish on my example are very good. machining is nice and crisp no scratches or dings. The inside of the head is clean as a whistle. No dust/fingerprints in there. window is super clear and obviuosly coated for glare reduction. I went with the XML led model and the led is perfectly centered.

This is definitley a bling light. It is a beautiful looking light and really stands out. It really is almost like a piece of jewelry or a fine watch in appearance and people do notice it when you take it out .

I chose to remove the clip on mine as i carry these types of lights as EDC and utilize the P7 suspension clip which I have found to be perfect for EDC. The P7 clip keeps the light in place on the outer edge of my left pocket and keeps it straight up and down at the top of the pocket. when you need the light just grab hold of the P7 and pull the light out . The supplied pocket clip is great and very functional. Its strong and the light clips on and off very smoothly. I just really like hw the P7 clip makes the light almost 100% invisible and it wont catch on things and get yanked out of the pocket. I have had a Nitecore with the stock pocket clip pulled right out of my pocket by a seatbelt before and not only did it hit the ground but I thought I had lost it for a few hours until I found it in the parking lot. 
There is a bit of play in the head when the light is off but I have never had a twisty light that didnt have a little play like this. I think a slightly larger oring would resolve this but also make the head even harder to turn and good luck finding an oring this size.

Now there are a cpl things so far I dont like. But they apply to the other Ti lights I have had. The threads do have a gritty feel to them. That doesnt bother me though as i know it is a trait of Ti. what does bother me about Ti twisty lights is this. when the light sits unused for a period of time the head "sticks" and it takes me 2 hands to get the light to loosen and turn on. also to get it to stay on there is a final tightening that has to be done that I cannot do with one hand. It always makes me squirm a little when I have to do this as it seems like you are going to crush the battery into the positive contact in the head and cause damage. any aluminum light I have used never requires this but every Ti light (2 others to be exact ) have required it. Also, trying to change modes and cycle thru the modes is virtually impossible until the head has been twisted back and forth a few times and things have "loosened" up a bit. Once loosened I can easily turn the light on and off and cycle thru modes one handed. But if I havnt used the light yet for a bit of time I cannot work it one handed. This has caused me to sell off the other Ti lites I had because I always find myself in situations where I need a lite and only have one hand free. But I really like the looks of this light and want to carry it so i will keep at it and see if things "break in" so to speak over time. Maybe i never gave the ti lights a chance to work in?
One remedy to this to me would be to implement more aggressive knurling on the head. The knurling one this light once again is more for looks than function and I just dont understand why on these twisty lights where you need as much grip/traction for your index finger and thumb the makers put on this almost smooth knurling which is virtually useless especially if you have wet/sweaty hands. I have tried the old technique of getting the ligt almost on and pushing on the side of the head to get it to cycle thru the modes but doing that and then being able to tighten the head to constant on is pretty much impossible to do for me 90% of the time.
The fact the light comes on in low only makes the problem worse for me. as i like to at least have the light come on in medium or high first I always want to cycle up to med or high and just using the light becomes a bit of a frustrating battle when you just need light fast and easy. i know most like these lights to come on in low but I am one of the few who dont.

I have come to accept that this is just the price that has to be paid to have a light like this in Titanium though and I will continue to keep the D25 as my EDC for the foreseeable future as I do really like Ti lights especially as EDC . They are just so pleasing to look at and pull out and impress poeple with

output on high is very impressive. i will not be using 14500s in this light . either 1.2v NIHMs or 1.6 Nizns . even on these lower voltage batteries this light totally dominates my Fenix Ld15. I like the XML also. I is cool in tint and the hotspot is very large but there is also an adequate amount of throw and it does ok outside. The Fenix Kd15 does throw a bit better even with the larger refelctor on the D25. But for me the XML D25 is a good compromise and you get longer more efficient runtimes which is for me a positive in an EDC. i will always make sacrifices for longer runtime. Inside the D25 is the king on high . It is amazing and really lights up things with a wall of light. This always seems to impress people more when you get this much light out of a tiny light barely poking out of your hand as compared to a big light that is 3 feet long though it may be 10 times briter. 
All the crap in the pics is just dust. It has been in my pocket for 2 days now


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## KDOG3 (Jan 12, 2012)

Well I gotmy Ti D25C today. Its a nice light but has my one big pet peeve - not properly focused. Has the darker center in the hotspot. Dont know why manufacturers have not figured out how to perfectly focus an led after all these yeaes. I got the warm tint and the color is gorgeous. Ive got the gritty thread issue as well. Im wondering if there is way to focus the emitter bette myself but it looks like itnwould be difficult. I guess I cant expect the same quality as I would get from Surefire or HDS given the price point. Still a tad dissapointing though.


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## Nake (Jan 12, 2012)

What I don't understand with my Ti AA version, is it's brighter with a NiMH than with a NiZn or the 3V 14505. :thinking:


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## purelite (Jan 12, 2012)

I am not showing adark center in the hotspot on mine Kdog. Mine is not the warm though.

Nake are you just eyeballing the output and switching batteries back and forth? I dont have a 3v to try but I seea little difference using a 1.6v as I also do in my Fenix Ld15 but not a huge difference.


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## Nake (Jan 12, 2012)

purelite said:


> I am not showing adark center in the hotspot on mine Kdog. Mine is not the warm though.
> 
> Nake are you just eyeballing the output and switching batteries back and forth? I dont have a 3v to try but I seea little difference using a 1.6v as I also do in my Fenix Ld15 but not a huge difference.




These are the lumen numbers I get from my light box. Don't look at them for accuracy, but for comparison.

NiMH 1.9/26/105

NiZn 2/25/98

14505 31/48/97

14500 100/264 




edit; cool S2 LED version


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## KDOG3 (Jan 12, 2012)

purelite said:


> I am not showing adark center in the hotspot on mine Kdog. Mine is not the warm though.



Its noticeable on mine though. I was thinking arent the reflectors interchangeable? Maybe I could get one with just a little more orange peel to cancel out that dark area. unless there is way to shim the reflector a quarter millimeter up or something.


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## purelite (Jan 12, 2012)

I hear ya, didint mean to come across as doubtful, just commenting on my specimen. Doesnt look like these are easily taken apart to me.


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## theix (Jan 16, 2012)

Ok. So I got D25C Ti and D25A Ti. My D25C Ti is now look like this







Heat anodizing was easier than I thought it would.


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## houtex (Jan 16, 2012)

I'm a fan:thumbsup:


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## Vortus (Jan 16, 2012)

I have a question to those with the D25C Ti XM-L U2. When switching modes I get this sequence:
*Low->Med->Turbo->Low->Med->Turbo->Strobe->*_Alternating Frequency Strobe_*->Flash->*_Rapid SOS_*->SOS->Beacon->Low-Flash


*
My AA version is like this as well. Not really an issue for me. Can cycle through easy enough. Been carrying it for a week + now. Its an excellent little light. Anyone else using the slight head wobble to change modes quick? Tap till you get where you want, then twist with the thumb and forefinger to lock into that mode. Makes one hand operation a snap. Been spending alot of my idle time twisting it and it is getting smoother. I suspect it will never be butter smooth, but I can live with that. This is an affordable Ti light meant to be EDC'ed.


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## ViciousV (Jan 16, 2012)

Vortus said:


> I have a question to those with the D25C Ti XM-L U2. When switching modes I get this sequence:
> *Low->Med->Turbo->Low->Med->Turbo->Strobe->*_Alternating Frequency Strobe_*->Flash->*_Rapid SOS_*->SOS->Beacon->Low-Flash
> 
> 
> ...



After having mine a week or 2, the threads have smoothed out some. But like you said I don't expect them to get much better. Not like my aluminum version. I played with the head tipping "feature" but tend to keep mine 1/4 turn past off to prevent accidental activation.


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## theix (Jan 17, 2012)

I gave my D25C Ti and D25A Ti another go for heat anodizing. Here's the result.






















It's not perfect. These are my first attempts in heat anodizing titanium lights.


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## shipwreck (Jan 17, 2012)

that's pretty cool


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## ylw (Jan 17, 2012)

I would definitely not be ashamed of such a result. That looks hot :thumbsup:


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## DM51 (Jan 17, 2012)

theix... that is good photography and your lights look very nice indeed, but the pics themselves are too large as posted. Please resize them to comply with Rule 3.


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## theix (Jan 17, 2012)

Fixed the image size. Thanks!


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## ylw (Jan 18, 2012)

Today I received my Eagletac D25c Mini Titanium and it looks awesome. The amount of light coming from it is also unbelievable. It took me a couple of twists before I understood how it worked. You have to twist anticlockwise which is a bit awkward. The clip got a little bit in the way when turning bit I found out that this goes away when I put the clip to the right when holding it in my right hand (I twist with left). The twisting is a bit heavy (might need some breaking in perhaps) which can be seen as both a pro and a con: it doesn't turn on itself that easily but it can be hard to get it to the mode you want. It doesn't bother me though.

I bought this light to become my keychain (it will have only 1 key attached to it) but I was wondering what would be a good and effective way of attaching the key to it. I'm pondering if it would be handy if the key is removable (it is the front door key) or that it is on a leash. Anyone got any recommendations?


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## T45 (Jan 18, 2012)

ylw said:


> I would definitely not be ashamed of such a result. That looks hot :thumbsup:



+1


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## MrBlinky (Jan 18, 2012)

Vortus said:


> Here is a quick white wall shot. In case I fail is the link up above. Well, my editing didnt show up for some reason. The "top" light is a Fenix PD1 with diffuser film on cr123, the "middle" is the D25AM Ti on a alkaline, the "bottom" is a Olight T10 XPG R5 on a cr123.



Is your D25AM neutral or cool white?*

Anyone else have the D25AM XML in neutral yet. I ordered one on the 6th and the dealer said they where not in stock yet but did not specify when they would be in.

Not sure if I should just go with the cool white the only reason I wanted the neutral was because I'm not fond of the green tint (to me) on my Quark 123 R5.


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## Vortus (Jan 18, 2012)

Box says cool white. To my eye it's more nuetral. That pic was taken off of a white poster board, not a painted wall. Though it may be getting some overlap changing it a bit since they were so close. But no green regardless. Very pleasant tint. No pink, green or blue. Really like it.


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## MrBlinky (Jan 18, 2012)

Vortus said:


> Box says cool white. To my eye it's more nuetral. That pic was taken off of a white poster board, not a painted wall. Though it may be getting some overlap changing it a bit since they were so close. But no green regardless. Very pleasant tint. No pink, green or blue. Really like it.



Thanks for the response I think I will give the dealer a call tomarrow and have them ship a cool white if they still don't have the nuetral.


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## MrBlinky (Jan 18, 2012)

Talked with the dealer and was told that they just got a tracking *number for ten of the D25AM XML lights in neutral and one of them is mine still no word on the D25C though. So hopefully I'll have my new light next week.

Just thought I would post this for others who are waiting.


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## bluewater (Jan 24, 2012)

I received my D25A Titanium today. Keenbeam up in Canada was good enough to upgrade me to the Ti version for the price of a regular light, rather than wait for an incoming shipment. Great service.

Initial impression is decidedly mixed. This is my first Ti light, so the gritty threads will take some getting used to. 
What I really don't like is the need to twist with some authority to get a good connection and solid level change. 

The head on mine isn't at all wobbly. It's one heck of a good looking light. I love the wall of light produced by the XM-L U2.

Has anyone found a lube that helps with the grittiness? I'm using a gel silicone lube.


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## theix (Jan 25, 2012)

bluewater said:


> I received my D25A Titanium today. Keenbeam up in Canada was good enough to upgrade me to the Ti version for the price of a regular light, rather than wait for an incoming shipment. Great service.
> 
> Initial impression is decidedly mixed. This is my first Ti light, so the gritty threads will take some getting used to.
> What I really don't like is the need to twist with some authority to get a good connection and solid level change.
> ...



SuperLube grease does help on mine.


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## bluewater (Jan 31, 2012)

Denix said:


> Got mine a few days ago. Great looking light, threads a bit gritty.
> 
> Mine seems to behave strangely though. If I twist it on it goes to low. If I twist rapidly off and on, it always stays on low, even if I do it very quickly. However, if I really ram it on and off forcibly, then it switches modes like it's supposed to. I really have to do it hard to get it to switch. If I do it lightly (but still rapidly) it always stays on low. Also, I tried it with a 14500 and I only get a high mode. The light gets burning hot after about 30 seconds. I was expecting a low mode, but I only get high or strobe.
> 
> ...



I just received some 14500's today, and it's the same. Only high. This is a bit disappointing, as it's basically useless with the 14500's. Sure is bright though!


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## sassaquin (Jan 31, 2012)

bluewater said:


> Has anyone found a lube that helps with the grittiness? I'm using a gel silicone lube.



I've tried many lubes on titanium threads and found Finish Line Extreme Fluoro (100% DuPont fluoronated grease) to be the best on smoothing them out.


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## bluewater (Feb 1, 2012)

Impressions after a week. This thing is GREAT. I've never had a light physically change before. 
The threads have smoothed out nicely, and it's switching more precisely. It finally feels as good as it looks.

Heading up to the bush for "boys weekend". This thing on 14500's will blow them away!

It needs a low mode on 14500's ! It would take this light to another level.

EAGLE TAC...hello????


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## drupal (Feb 5, 2012)

Could someone comment on runtime? (especially D25C XML)
I'm also looking for Retailers in Europe.


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## Vortus (Feb 5, 2012)

Yes, it gets a little better with each use. 

I was going to go with 14500's, but this light is more than enough for me on eneloops. So I do not have any, but for the 14500 user, seems to me by looking at the light that it might be modded via a spacer and some qtc to make it variable with those. Now I am wondering.


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## CM2010 (Feb 10, 2012)

Got my D25C Ti XM-L today and the threads are very gritty, love the amount of light it puts out for such a small light.

One thing though it doesnt seem to have a low mode it always goes from medium to high? I presume it goes from medium to high or it could be from low to high.


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## bluewater (Feb 10, 2012)

It should have 3 modes. Low, med, high. Low is quite low 3 lumen. Not much mistaking the difference between low and high. 
Sounds like you have Med and High. Bummer.


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## CM2010 (Feb 10, 2012)

I just put the CR123 in that came with it and i get all 3 modes with that low med high its only when i put in a AW RCR123 that i lose the medium mode.


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## Shooter21 (Feb 11, 2012)

the best thing about this light is the clip i love it i wish more companies would use this style of clip. It reminds me of my haiku clip.


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## ScaryFatKidGT (Feb 13, 2012)

So I got a D25C Ti S2 and it will only change modes if I do it really fast like .5 second and my modes go low-med-high-low-med-high-strobe-strobe-flash-uber fast sos-regular sos-some other flashing mode becon? Yes 2 strobes and a fast SOS. I think I should send it back for a new one?

Then as far as pocket rocketing goes I would like to use a 14500 but the 25C probably has a larger heat sink and a little better throw am I right?


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## Denix (Feb 14, 2012)

ScaryFatKidGT said:


> So I got a D25C Ti S2 and it will only change modes if I do it really fast like .5 second and my modes go low-med-high-low-med-high-strobe-strobe-flash-uber fast sos-regular sos-some other flashing mode becon? Yes 2 strobes and a fast SOS. I think I should send it back for a new one?
> 
> Then as far as pocket rocketing goes I would like to use a 14500 but the 25C probably has a larger heat sink and a little better throw am I right?



Yeah, my D25A Ti does the same thing. You really have to switch fast to change modes. Not at all like my Preon Revo. 

I think you're right that the 25C will throw a bit better. Mine doesn't even have a low mode with a 14500. Only high and it gets way too hot within about a minute, so it's basically useless. However, I was surprised to find that there isn't that much visual difference between the 14500 and a regular NiMH on high. 

Guy.


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## ViciousV (Feb 15, 2012)

My D25C is finicky as well. It does a double flash between modes most of the time. Same when turning it on. It does a quick flash then turns on. You have to be quick when switching modes. Much quicker than my non-ti D25C.


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## mohanjude (Feb 15, 2012)

Ok I had a go anodising mine using electric current and electrolyte.


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## recDNA (Feb 15, 2012)

IMO the words titanium and twisty should never refer to the same flashlight unless they put in brass threads.
Is a clicky cap coming out for this flashlight?


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## ScaryFatKidGT (Feb 15, 2012)

recDNA said:


> IMO the words titanium and twisty should never refer to the same flashlight unless they put in brass threads.
> Is a clicky cap coming out for this flashlight?


There actually not bad! Nothing like quarks Ti's

So your guys does the little .5lm pre-flash too?


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## ViciousV (Feb 16, 2012)

ScaryFatKidGT said:


> There actually not bad! Nothing like quarks Ti's
> 
> So your guys does the little .5lm pre-flash too?



Yes. Not sure what lumen the flash is tho.


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## Myfka (Feb 16, 2012)

Just received mine D25A Ti. Really nice light. Its very powerful on 14500 :twothumbs


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## ScaryFatKidGT (Feb 16, 2012)

ViciousV said:


> Yes. Not sure what lumen the flash is tho.


its dim tho not bright like quarks? WHAT ABOUT THE 2 STROBES I HAVE TO GO BY EVERY TIME AN THE FAST SOS? LMAO


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## Denix (Feb 16, 2012)

mohanjude said:


> Ok I had a go anodising mine using electric current and electrolyte.



Very nice!

Guy


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## Myfka (Feb 17, 2012)

I have one question guys. Are you using AA or 14500 in D25a Ti? Because mine is REALLY hot on 14500 , even on low mode. (Low looks like med on 14500 BTW)


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## OneBigDay (Feb 17, 2012)

The output on my D25A Ti XM-L is so nice I haven't seen a need to put a 14500 in this. The form factor is very small and it is Titanium which doesn't cool as well as aluminum, so I'd rather just live with NiMH output rather than fry the emitter with 14500. Especially if I lose modes I don't see the trade-off of 14500's is worth it in this light.

AA output is very acceptable in my opinion :thumbsup:


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## Myfka (Feb 17, 2012)

AA output is great . I just wanted to know, if that pocket heater on 14500 is normal :devil:.


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## Pete2s (Feb 17, 2012)

Does anyone know how long the D25LC2 stays regulated on a 18650?

Eagletac's website description sounds like a buck circruit that will probably only briefly regulate a fresh 18650: "When using a single 18650 battery, runtime will be extended with slightly lower turbo output (it happens when battery voltage drops below LED forward voltage)."


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