# Keylux Tutorial



## Chief_Wiggum (Feb 28, 2004)

Took a break from cutting chips today to finish up my Keylux tutorial.







Have at it. I'm sure the guys with bigger lathes (Larry) will have a good laugh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

_*bad link removed*_

Let me know what you guys think.


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## paulr (Feb 28, 2004)

Nice! How much of a jump do you think it is to go from something like that, to useing an NC fab like emachineshop.com for those of us without lathes? You did that with your 4-to-D holders, right? Is it cost effective for a small run of flashlights?


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## Chief_Wiggum (Feb 28, 2004)

I've plugged some stuff into emachineshop to try and get an idea on cost. Bottom line is, their software isn't up to the task of drawing a flashlight. I think it'd be really resonable price wise, though.

They won't let you have a wall thickness less than some amount, you can't machine features closer than a certain distance, etc. Also, there's no way to specify things like the keyring slots, battery contact, specific fit requirements, etc. 

For parts like heatsinks, runs of simple odd parts, and the like, I think the software and pricing is ideal. Especially since now they will turn parts if the machining is only concentric features. Prior to implementing turning, they would CNC mill everything.


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## Chop (Feb 28, 2004)

Chief,

Is that a Taig? I was thinking of getting a smaller, more comfortable lathe for doing fine work.


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## tvodrd (Feb 28, 2004)

Larry didn't get a laugh at all /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif . Larry was very impressed!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif for the documentation!!! Our approaches are fundamentally similar- I just have the advantage of being able to put a lot more horsepower in the cut /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif . With my current workload (at work,) The CR2 is going to take at least a couple of weeks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif .

Larry


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## jtice (Feb 28, 2004)

Chief,

Thanks so much for taking the time to write that up.
Very well done.

I iwill have to try that some day.

For now, I will stick to slightly larger lights. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


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## KingSmono (Feb 29, 2004)

Wow, I'm impressed!! Thanks for the obvious effort that went in to this tutorial! I've always wondered how they got the knurling on there... Maybe one day I'll own a lathe, and be making my own flashlights /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

-Allen


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## alanz (Feb 29, 2004)

Outstanding Chief!


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## Dan C (Feb 29, 2004)

Nice Chief. I imagine most people don't realize the work involved in making something like this. The different procedures I would use are mostly due to equipment differences. I thought for sure you'd use that single axis CNC setup to single point the internal threads, simply for the fun factor!

Do you get much chatter finishing the body with the end mill? I need to get some of those, much easier than with a boring bar for creating that nipple.

Dan C


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## Chief_Wiggum (Feb 29, 2004)

I set the lathe to run at about 500 rpm. No chatter at all with the end mill. Anything faster, and I screams like a mad man /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/huh.gif

I did single poing the body threads for a while, but 10+ passes with the cutter and the funky groove it left made me switch to the tap. Much faster and easier to set up.


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## tvodrd (Feb 29, 2004)

Boring with endmills usually requires a little luck. I have done it for years, and sometimes chatter can't be avoided by changing speeds/feeds. I have better luck with 3-flute EMs than 2 or 4 flute wrt chatter. Also, $olid carbide tool$ will reduce chatter. Chatter is ugly, but you only see it when changing batteries /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif . I have never experienced any problems with "Jacobs"-chucking hardened tools. As the chuck jaws are also hardened, the cutter will usually just spin in the chuck if it siezes in the workpiece. Boring and facing the bottom of the bore is probably a better way to go, but is more time consuming. Depending on how the boring bar is ground, you can leave a raised ground contact if You wish.

Larry


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## Ardent (Mar 1, 2004)

Excellent! Thanks for sharing!

Mike, in the tapping process, do you turn it by hand, or run the lathe motor? Do you have to control the feed of the tap into the body? I'd appreciate it if you could tell us a little more about that. 

Thanks & Regards
Arden


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## Chief_Wiggum (Mar 1, 2004)

For tapping using the tap, I turn the spindle by hand. 

The tailstock chuck has a lever attached to it (some tailstocks have a crank) that allows the operator to feed the cutting tool towards the chuck. 

I just apply steady pressure to the lever to get the tap started.

Once the first couple threads are cut, you no longer have to apply pressure to the tap as the threads you just cut will continue to pull the tap in as you crank the spindle over.


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## tvodrd (Mar 1, 2004)

When I power tap, the tap feeds itself and the lathe tailstock or mill quill. Also having 3-phase power is a real plus- I can "instantly" reverse the spindle. When trying to tap to a critical depth (like not gorking the inside front of a bezel,) I turn the chuck by hand.

Larry


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## TheFire (Mar 1, 2004)

Thanks for the detailed instructions... I'm really going to have to have a go at something similar myself... now if only I can find the time and money to get some stock to play with...


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## cy (Mar 1, 2004)

Thank you!!!!

This tutorial answered a lot of questions. Your pictures were very clear. These pictures were worth several thousand words.

Since I don't have a quick change tool holder yet. I can make a jig to lay across my lathe bed at exactly dead center height.

CY


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## Doug S (Mar 4, 2004)

Sweet! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## aosty (Feb 28, 2006)

:candle: 

Anyone have a copy of this dead webpage saved/mirrored?


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## localguy808 (Mar 5, 2006)

darn, i missed it.. any chance someone saved it or something?


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