# Zebralight SC600-III (XHP35, 1x18650) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!



## selfbuilt (Mar 9, 2016)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











Zebralight updated their popular SC600 model to a new Mark III edition. Featuring higher output and a new emitter, let's see how it compares to the older Zebralight models (especially the SC600-II and SC62), and other recent lights in the 1x18650 class.

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cree XHP35 Cool White (Nominal CCT 5700K). Also available with Cree XHP35 Neutral White (Nominal CCT 4500K) and Neutral White High Intensity (Nominal CCT 4500K)
User Selectable Levels: 3 main levels (High, Medium and Low). Each main level can be programmed to one of its two sub-levels. The second sub-level of the each main levels can be further programmed to different brightness levels.
Light Output (runtimes) for Cool White
High: H1 1300 Lm (PID, approx 2.2 hrs) or H2 670 Lm (PID, 2.8 hrs)/360 Lm (4.3 hrs)/160 Lm (12 hrs)
Medium: M1 70 Lm (33 hrs) or M2 32 Lm (73 hrs)/12 Lm (8 days)
Low: L1 3.8 Lm (18 days) or L2 0.43 Lm (2.8 months)/0.06 Lm (5.1 months)/0.01 Lm (7.1 months)
Beacon Strobe Mode: 0.2Hz Beacon at Low / 0.2Hz Beacon at H1 / 4Hz Strobe at H1 / 19Hz Strobe at H1
Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 6.0V
Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. unprotected, 65.0-65.2 mm long) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package.
Parasitic Drain: Negligible (much less than the self discharging of a battery)
Beam Type: 80 degree spill, 10 degree hot spot
PID thermal regulated outputs (two highest output levels) using 384 internal brightness levels and a calibrated 0.1C resolution temperature sensor
Programmable PID thermal regulation temperature target value (existed in all lights with the PID thermal regulation feature since late 2012)
Builtin battery protections with continuously monitored temperature, current, and voltage, plus a (2.7V) low voltage cutoff
Battery capacity indicator (LED flashes 1-4 times, 4 short clicks to start)
Automatic stepping down from High to Medium, and from Medium to Low when battery capacity is low
Durable electronic soft-touch switch
Smart user interface provides fast and easy access to all brightness levels and beacon-strobes.
Precision machined unibody casing from premium grade aluminum bar stocks
Proprietary heat sinking design bonds the LED board directly to the unibody aluminum casing
Durable natural hard anodized finish (Type III Class I)
Sealed and potted LED driver circuitry
Tempered optical grade glass
Orange peel textured reflector
Battery reverse polarity protection
Pocket clip
Lanyard ring
Waterproof to IPX7 (2 meters, 30 minutes)
Dimensions: Head Diameter: 1.2 inch (30 mm), Body Diameter: 0.98 inch (25 mm), Length: 3.8 inch (96 mm)
Weight: 2.35 oz (66 gram) without battery, 
MSRP: ~$95






Inside the standard eco-friendly Zebralight cardboard box, you fill find the light with pocket clip, spare o-rings, and manual.













From left to right: Samsung INR 20R unprotected 2000mAh; Zebralight SC600-III, SC600-II L2, SC62; Nitecore MH20; Olight S30; Thrunite Neutron 2C 2014.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Zebralight SC600 III*: Weight 64.8g, Length: 96.3mm, Width (bezel) 30.1mm
*Zebralight SC600 II*: Weight 79.3g, Length: 101.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm
*Zebralight SC600*: Weight 87.2g, Length: 107.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm
*Zebralight SC62*: Weight: 42.3g, Length: 96.5mm, Width (max, bezel): 26.1mm

*Nitecore EC20*: Weight: 77.1g, Length: 129.2mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Nitecore P10*: Weight 82.0g, Length: 135.1mm, Width (bezel): 25.5mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Fenix PD35*: Weight: 82.7g, Length: 138.1mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Nitecore MH20*: Weight: 85.4g, Length: 105.5mm, Width (bezel): 31.8mm
*Nitecore P12*: Weight: 89.7g, Length: 139.4mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Olight S30R-II*: Weight: 81.1g (131.1g with Olight 18650 3600mAh), Length: 117.6mm, Width (bezel): 25.0mm
*Olight S30*: Weight: 73.2g, Length: 116.6mm, Width (bezel): 25.0mm
*Olight S20 (2013, XM-L2)*: Weight: 52.4g, Length: 106.5mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Skilhunt DS20*: Weight: 53.8g, Length: 110.0mm, Width (bezel): 24.0mm
*Thrunite TN12-2014*: Weight: 80.0g, Length: 140.5mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm

The new SC600-III is even smaller than the last edition - overall length is now in keeping with the SC62.


















The build of the SC600 III remains similar overall to the previous model – the main difference is the shorter battery tube now. This means that standard protected 18650 batteries CANNOT be used in the light. If you try to use anything longer than ~66mm, you are likely to dent and damage the cell. 

Note as well that both the tailcap and head contact surfaces now use a series of small raised buttons, each with a spring underneath. These "pogo-pins" help ensure reliable contact (and further help save some length).

The natural-finish anodizing is similar to the last generation Zebralight (type III hard anodized). The finish seemed excellent on my sample, with none of the slight crackling I noticed on the original Mark I model. As always, labels are very minimal and small, though clearly legible against the background. 

Knurling is of reasonable aggressive on the body. There are also finger wells and other body elements to help with grip, as before. Rolling is reduced due to the addition of the split-ring attachment point now, near the tail. Screw threads are anodized for tailcap lock-out. 

As always with all Zebralights, the control switch is electronic and located on the head. Switch feel is similar to before, with the button slightly recessed in the opening to limit the risk of accidental activation. There are fins around the outside of head now, similar to the design of the SC5. Overall feel is similar to the previous SC600 Mark II.

Light can tailstand as before, thanks to the flat base. Pocket clip is similar to the last generation model. Note the clip remains reversible (i.e. can attach near the head or the tail, pointing in opposite directions).










The main reflector appears largely unchanged from the previous model. It is textured, to a medium-to-high orange peel finish. XHP35 cool white emitter was well centered on my sample.

*User Interface*

The SC600-III uses a very similar interface as the last SC600 model. As always, while it may sound a little complex when first described, it is actually quite easy to use. 

In general terms, on/off and mode switching is controlled by the electronic clicky switch. The main level choices are Lo – Med – Hi. There are two possible memorized outputs at each level, commonly referred to as 1 or 2 (e.g. Lo1/Lo2, Med1/Med2, Hi1/Hi2). And for each of the second levels, you can choose between 2 or 3 options. This gives you a total of 11 constant outputs to choose from. There are also 4 blinking modes. 

I know that may sound confusing, but the interface is actually well laid out for simple operation. Let me walk you through everything:

_Basic Operation_

By default, the light is set to come on in Hi1, Med1 or Low1. You could therefore easily use the light as a simple, straight-forward three-mode light, if you want.

To get Hi initially, do a quick single click from Off. A double-click from Off will activate in Med (after a quick flash of Hi). Press and hold (>0.5 sec) from Off to activate in Low.

As with everything on a Zebralight, it takes a bit of use to get the timings right. After about a second or so of being On, a quick click will simply turn the light off.

To advance from one mode to the next while the light is On, press and hold the switch to cycle through Lo > Med > Hi, repeatedly (you can do this directly from Off too). Release the switch to select the level. As before, a quick click turns off the light.

The sequence is actually surprising versatile - you can choose your preferred way of accessing the three main levels.

_Secondary modes for each level_

When On, a quick double-click at any time switches to/from the secondary mode for that level (i.e. 1 or 2). The light will memorize your choice and return to it next time you cycle or turn on at this level. The memory even lasts through battery changes.

As before, you also have a few choices as to what the secondary mode can be for each level. To enter the programming feature for any level, double-click the light 6 times rapidly. Now, every additional double-click will advance you through the three programmable options (e.g., 670 Lm, 3320 Lm, 160 Lm for Hi2). To select the mode you want as the second level, simply turn off the light once you have made your choice. When you next turn it on, that last level will have been memorized, and returned to automatically. There are now two possible Med2 levels, and three possible Lo2 and Hi2 levels to choose from.

_Blinking modes_

Blinking modes are hidden away under a rapid triple-click of the switch from off. You can switch between four blinking options by double-clicking the switch once On in this state (a single click reverts you to the constant output modes). Mode sequence for the double-click is: Slow Strobe > Fast Strobe > Lo Beacon > Hi Beacon, in repeating sequence.

_Battery Indicator_

Quadrupule-click the switch from off, and the main emitter flashes out a relative battery strength (flashes 1-4 times, with 4 being nearly fully charged).

_Programmable PID_

A new feature on the Mark III is a somewhat programmable PID setting (for how the light responds to heat on the two highest levels).

To change the PID setting, turn off the light from High1 and then turn back on to High1. Press and hold to cycle from Low to High 6 times. On the 7th (or more) cycle, release the switch to choose one of the three options:
1. release on High to add 1 degree C (up to 5 max)
2. release on Med to revert back to the factory default
3. release on Low to subtract 1 degree C (up to 5 max) 

See my runtimes results later in this review for more info.

And that’s it – it is really very simple in practice, once you get used to the timings. :wave:

*Video*: 

For more information on the overall build and user interface of my sample, please see my video overview:



As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. 

As an aside, if you want to get an instant notification for every new review that I post here on CPF, you can subscribe to my YouTube channel (the vids go public at the same time). Just mouse over my logo watermark on the bottom right-hand corner of the video for the subscribe feature to open up. 

*PWM/Strobe*

As with my other Zebralight lights, I don't see any signs of pulse width modulation (PWM) on any the lower output modes. The light appears to be fully current controlled at all levels. 

Med1:





Fast Strobe:





The fast strobe mode is a disorienting 18Hz tactical strobe. Pulse width is not an even 50:50 split however – the light is actually on for a shorter period each pulse than it is off (i.e., a negative deflection below signifies the on-pulse).






Slow strobe is a ~4 Hz strobe.

Hi Beacon:





Lo Beacon:





The beacon modes have a common frequency of one quick flash every ~5 secs. The intensity is different between the two modes (i.e., one at max, one at a lower level)

Note that these blinking mode parameters are unchanged from the previous edition Mark II.

*Standby Drain*

Due to the electronic switch, all Zebralights have a constant parasitic stand-by current drain when the tailcap is connected. 

I measured the original SC600 at 69.6uA, and the SC600-II L2 at a negligible 4.3uA. The new SC600-III is slightly higher at 10.5uA – which is still negligible. Even for a 2000mAh unprotected IMR/INR 18650, that would translate into over 21 years to drain a fully charged cell. This is below the self-discharge rate of Li-ions, and not a concern.

As before, you can fully break this current - and physically lock-out the light - by twisting the tailcap a quarter turn.

*Beamshots*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an 3.7V Li-ion (18650) battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

























































































The SC600 Mark III has a brighter hotspot, and is brighter overall (although that is hard to see in the beamshots above). Scroll down for detailed beam output and throw measures.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






As you could tell from the beamshots, max overall output has increased from the original SC600-II (which was a class leader when it came out). Peak intensity throw/beam distance is as you would expect for this light (i.e., it is still not particularly throwy).

Let's see how all the SC600 models do on my estimated lumen scale:






Overall, my lumen estimates are pretty close to Zebralights specs (as usual). The lowest output modes seem lower than the specs would suggest, but that could be the calibration of my lightbox.

As always, note my lumen estimation method is just that – an estimation based on the calibration of my lightbox. As such, don't get caught up on the _absolute_ difference between lights or levels, as I can't guarantee absolute accuracy. Focus instead on the _relative_ differences, as that is internally consistent across all my reviews.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

Normally, my runtimes are done on standard protected 18650 cells. None of these will fit in the light – and Zebralight recommends only using unprotected cells.

Let's start with a comparison of the various modes on unprotected Samsung INR 20R (2000mAh), under my standard testing conditions (i.e., a cooling fan is used)










You can see the PID-induced step-down on the highest level – and the variable output over time. The point of a PID (Proportional-Integral-Differential) controller is that they produce a lot of very finely discriminated steps in output. This will not be apparent to you in practice (i.e., they are too subtle to see), but my lightbox can indeed detect the precise thermal regulation introduced by the PID.

At all other levels, the light is flat-stabilized, with defined step-downs only as the battery nears exhaustion.

Let's see how max output compares to the SC600-II and SC62, on both Samsung INR and Panasonic NCR18650PF (2900mAh)






As expected, the higher capacity Panasonic cells last longer. But the main difference is that the SC600-III is brighter initially than the SC600-II (which in turn was brighter than the SC62).

To explore the PID in more detail, here is a comparison of the Max, Default and Min PID settings – both with and without external cooling applied.






The first observation is that without cooling, the PID will cause a much greater drop in output after a few minutes runtime (as expected).

In terms of adjusting the PID set level, it doesn't make much of a difference overall. Certainly under cooling, there is no difference between the Default and Max PID (as you might expect). At the Min PID setting, output is slightly lower.

The main difference is under non-cooled runs (which are more representational of real life). Here, the PID setting controls how much the output drops (and thus, overall runtime). To put the traces above in perspective, the "steady-state" output of the non-cooled runs at 30 mins was about ~680 lumens for Max PID, ~620 lumens for the Default PID, and ~550 lumens for Min PID.

*Potential Issues*

Like its predecessor model, the new SC600-III is 1x18650 only (i.e., it doesn't take 2xCR123A or 2xRCR). However, unlike previous models, only unprotected 18650 batteries will fit and operate in the light. Any 18650 longer than ~66mm could be dented and damaged in the light. See discussion below.

Switch timing takes a little getting used, if you aren’t already familiar with Zebralight. 

As with all lights with an electronic switch, potential accidental activation is a concern, and is the standby drain. In this case, the switch is recessed to limit the risk of inadvertent activation - and the standby drain is so low as to be completely negligible. Also, you can easily lock out the light completely by a simple twist of the tailcap.

*Preliminary Observations*

The SC600-III is a definite output upgrade to the earlier SC600-II, and tops out at over 1300 lumens from a single 18650. oo:

However, a likely controversial change is the shortening of the battery tube, preventing standard length protected 18650s from being used.  Zebralight has confirmed to me that only unprotected 18650s are supported in the SC600-III. 

Apparently, a major design consideration was to accommodate future higher current-draw models in this build (e.g. the XHP50-based SC600Fd III Plus they recently added to their online google sheet). Multiple pogo pins are used to lower the resistance and the possibility of bad connections to the cells. And the Zebralight circuit can provide the same protections that integrated battery protection circuit do. They have thus decided to move to only supporting unprotected 18650s in this build (i.e., high-drain rated IMR and INR cells are expected to be used in the light).

While I can understand this reasoning, it is still problematic if you do not have the right length unprotected cells. My ~65mm Samsung INR 20R and Panasonic NCR18650PF fit and work fine. But my 67.2mm Efest 2500mAh IMR cells (with the raised positive contact button) are too long to fit inside the light – you will dent and damage the cells if you try. Frankly, anything >66.0mm is a risk in the new SC600-III. :shrug:

The PID controller continues to work well in my testing – and it is interesting that they have provided a user-configurable option to adjust its baseline setting. In the case the of the SC600-III, the 5-degree up/down shift in set point resulted in +/- 10% change in steady-state non-cooled output (from the default setting). Most users probably won't bother adjusting, but it may be more relevant as higher output emitters start being used in this build (i.e. the XHP50).

Output/runtime efficiency remains top-of-class for the SC600-III. :thumbsup: Basically, the XHP35 emitter gives greater output for the same runtime as the SC600-II L2 on max. At lower levels, output/runtime performance is largely unchanged. As before, I quite like the low battery step-down feature (on all levels), as it means you will never get stuck with no light without warning. Regulation patterns remain excellent, in my view. 

A couple of Neutral White emitter options are available. My Cool White XHP35 sample actually has a somewhat warmer corona than most cool white emitters. Although the SC600-III has a slightly more focused hotspot, this is still more of a floody style of light.

At the end of the day, the new SC600-III is noticeable output update over the SC600-II. However, the move to only support unprotected 18650s is something you will need to take into account. It should be interesting to see what happens when higher output emitters are used (i.e., the upcoming XHP50 model).

----

SC600-III provided by Zebralight for review.


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## markr6 (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for a great review and including the PID tests. I'm looking forward to that high CRI XHP50 (SC600Fd III Plus) :thumbsup:


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## recDNA (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the great review! 13k cd is a little better than I anticipated. I was really anxious to see this measured. I wonder if the HI model does any better. I wish they sent you one for comparison.


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## Ladd (Mar 9, 2016)

A great read! Thanks, selfbuilt, for these outstanding reviews.


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## scs (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks, selfbuilt.
Based on your experience with ZL lights and your current runtime tests, do you believe the light will achieve close to its advertised runtime of 33 hours at 70 lumens if the 3500mAh Panasonic GA cell is used?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 9, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Thanks for a great review and including the PID tests. I'm looking forward to that high CRI XHP50 (SC600Fd III Plus) :thumbsup:


Yes, that should be an interesting light. I'm curious as to how the PID will perform with something that runs brighter and hotter.



recDNA said:


> Thanks for the great review! 13k cd is a little better than I anticipated. I was really anxious to see this measured. I wonder if the HI model does any better. I wish they sent you one for comparison.


I expect it would, but hard to know by how much. Most the throw gain with the regular XHP35 (relative to the old XM-L2) is likely due to the output boost - although I suspect the small footprint and dome on the XHP35 is contributing to the more defined edges of the hotspot now.



scs said:


> Based on your experience with ZL lights and your current runtime tests, do you believe the light will achieve close to its advertised runtime of 33 hours at 70 lumens if the 3500mAh Panasonic GA cell is used?


Given my 2000mAh runtimes (18.6 hours), 33 hours is believable for 3500mAh. And judging from the specs online, those NCR18650GA should fit fine in the light.


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## sidecross (Mar 9, 2016)

Thank you for another excellent review. :thumbsup:

I like very much the UI of ZebraLight and have changed to ZebraLight for my Headlamp and other two most used flashlights (H600Fd III High CRI Floody Neutral White 18650), SC32 CR123 Flashlight, and SC600 Mk III 18650 XHP35 Flashlight Cool White. This makes the interface quit easy to use.

I do like the choice of 65mm flat top battery, but this is not agreed by everyone.


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## Swede74 (Mar 9, 2016)

In the immortal words and on unsolicited behalf of Ryp: Thanks for the review!


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## Mr. LED (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the review!

Does the SC600 III run on 2xCR123?

The factory runtime specs are based on which battery and what capacity?

Could you do a runtime test on a 3400mAh 18650 battery?

Thank you!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 9, 2016)

Great review. I just received my HI version and I am super pleased. Best tint out of a ZL light I've owned. Bright as can be and great throw for the size. The PID works really nicely - as soon as you think the light is going to get just about too hot to handle it starts dropping and keeps the temperature right is check just below the discomfort zone. 

I have no issues with the battery decision - there's a whole other thread with a back and forth on that debate. I got the 3500mAh unprotected GA cell ZL is selling with the light and I am very happy with it.


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## DeeFff (Mar 9, 2016)

Thank you for, as usual, another superlative review!

I've been waiting for your review before buying this light, and am now on the fence.

You noted:


 selfbuilt said:


> The SC600 Mark III has a brighter hotspot, and is brighter overall (although that is hard to see in the beamshots above).


Can you quantify how much apparent difference there is between the SC600-III, SC600-II, and SC62? Or do your throw/output numbers tell that story (i.e., 1.75x more [email protected] with 1.3x the throw of the SC62)?

And how about subjective tint difference between these three lights?

Thanks again for a brilliant review!


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## BWX (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the review. It looks like ZebraLight are moving farther and farther away from the things I like about them. 
Well, it is saving me money anyways, so that's good.

SC600 MKIb still my EDC and this Mk III is incompatible with all my batts, and has triple click to strobe  - instead of triple click to low. 
Guess I won't be "upgrading".


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## selfbuilt (Mar 9, 2016)

BTW all, forgot to mention: Zebralight confirmed to me that the user-programmable PID feature has been standard on all PID models since late 2012. Apparently, it was just undocumented previously.



Mr. LED said:


> Does the SC600 III run on 2xCR123?


Not as far as I know, no.



> The factory runtime specs are based on which battery and what capacity?


Dunno any more than what is listed there in the specs, but I am presuming it is the 3500mAh NCR18650GA cells that Zebralight sells (in regions where you can ship batteries).



> Could you do a runtime test on a 3400mAh 18650 battery?


Sorry, don't have any unprotected 3400mAh. I'm looking into seeing if I can get some of the NCR18650GA cells, but shipping to Canada is an issue for many places.



DeeFff said:


> Can you quantify how much apparent difference there is between the SC600-III, SC600-II, and SC62? Or do your throw/output numbers tell that story (i.e., 1.75x more [email protected] with 1.3x the throw of the SC62)?


The measures tell one aspect of the story .... but in practice, I find there is more of an "edge" to the hotspot on my SC600-III. Of course, that is a n=1 sample, so it's hard to know how much of that is just random focusing, and how much is due to the emitter. :shrug:



> And how about subjective tint difference between these three lights?


With the same caveat as above, the SC600-III is definitely the warmest of those 3.



BWX said:


> and has triple click to strobe  - instead of triple click to low.


Yeah, that change takes a little getting used to ... I wound up strobing myself a few more times that I would have liked in my testing.  I preferred the triple click to low, personally.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 9, 2016)

Can you compare the switches on the three models? 

If feel that the SC600 III has a better feel to the switch than previous models. A little easier to press without being right on center. A little bit more travel. And, a little bit more feedback in the click.


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## Mr. LED (Mar 9, 2016)

selfbuilt said:


> Not as far as I know, no.



Then why would they change the voltage range to 2.7-6.0V? The SC600MKII and SC62 are only 2.7-4.2V and it's understandable that they don't support CR123s. :shrug:


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## Mr. LED (Mar 10, 2016)

I sent an email to Zebralight yesterday, questioning about the battery.

Here's the response:

"Subject: SC600 MKIII and SC63 battery question

Two CR123s are too long to fit inside the SC600 Mk III or SC63. Voltage is not an issue though. 

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc."


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## markr6 (Mar 10, 2016)

Mr. LED said:


> I sent an email to Zebralight yesterday, questioning about the battery.
> 
> Here's the response:
> 
> ...



Oh yeah I forgot about the length. I keep thinking 2x123 is the same as 1x18650. Thanks for checking.


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## newbie66 (Mar 10, 2016)

Thx for the effort! Very good as always!


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## Tachead (Mar 10, 2016)

Mr. LED said:


> *Then why would they change the voltage range to 2.7-6.0V*? The SC600MKII and SC62 are only 2.7-4.2V and it's understandable that they don't support CR123s. :shrug:



Likely to support newer 4.35V Lithium Ion cells as well as to future proof for even higher voltage cells. It could also be useful in an emergency situation as the light could be rigged to run on 2 x CR123a.


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## Tachead (Mar 10, 2016)

Thanks for your review selfbuilt:thumbsup:

I suspect your cooling is insufficient to allow a difference between the H1 and M1 modes on your PID tests. It took a fan blowing on the H600Fd MKIII in -8C temps to stop the PID from kicking in even on this much lower output model. At room temps, even with the fan, the PID still reduced output.


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## sidecross (Mar 10, 2016)

Tachead said:


> Likely to support newer 4.35V Lithium Ion cells as well as to future proof for even higher voltage cells. It could also be useful in an emergency situation as the light could be rigged to run on 2 x CR123a.


Do a comparrison of Samsung INR18650-35E 3500mAh and LG 18650 E1 3200mAh 4.35 volts. 
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php

Higher volts does not mean higher amp output.

Also the ability to run to CR123a primary batteries would take a way the advantage of small length size. ZebraLight could make two versions of this light; one as is and another longer for those who want to run protected and Cr123a batteries.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 10, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Can you compare the switches on the three models?
> If feel that the SC600 III has a better feel to the switch than previous models. A little easier to press without being right on center. A little bit more travel. And, a little bit more feedback in the click.


Yes, my SC600-III sample is not as "stiff" as the earlier SC600-II or SC62. Again, this is only one sample (and I don't know if it is representational). In my experience, the earlier ZL switches have had a firmer click (for the last several years at least). My SC600-III feels instead like a more "typical" electronic switch.



Mr. LED said:


> Then why would they change the voltage range to 2.7-6.0V? The SC600MKII and SC62 are only 2.7-4.2V and it's understandable that they don't support CR123s. :shrug:





Tachead said:


> Likely to support newer 4.35V Lithium Ion cells as well as to future proof for even higher voltage cells. It could also be useful in an emergency situation as the light could be rigged to run on 2 x CR123a.


2xCR123A seems too long for the light - I expect you would dent the cells if you tried.



Tachead said:


> I suspect your cooling is insufficient to allow a difference between the H1 and M1 modes on your PID tests. It took a fan blowing on the H600Fd MKIII in -8C temps to stop the PID from kicking in even on this much lower output model. At room temps, even with the fan, the PID still reduced output.


Yes - it's hard to see, but there is a definite step-down in output, even with fan cooling (at room temp). I don't know how cold you would have to go prevent the PID from kicking in (or reduce it further).


----------



## gottawearshades (Mar 10, 2016)

My question as well!



Mr. LED said:


> Then why would they change the voltage range to 2.7-6.0V? The SC600MKII and SC62 are only 2.7-4.2V and it's understandable that they don't support CR123s. :shrug:


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## Tachead (Mar 10, 2016)

sidecross said:


> Do a comparrison of Samsung INR18650-35E 3500mAh and LG 18650 E1 3200mAh 4.35 volts.
> http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php
> 
> *Higher volts does not mean higher amp output*.
> ...



I did not say it did. I was simply speculating why ZL upped the input voltage range.

As for the advantage of small length, we are talking about less then 4mm here. I personally dont see that as a huge advantage.


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## Tachead (Mar 10, 2016)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, my SC600-III sample is not as "stiff" as the earlier SC600-II or SC62. Again, this is only one sample (and I don't know if it is representational). In my experience, the earlier ZL switches have had a firmer click (for the last several years at least). My SC600-III feels instead like a more "typical" electronic switch.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That's why I said "rigged in an emergency". 2xCR123a are definitely too long for this cell compartment size. A couple of rings of copper wire could easily jump the connection in an emergency however as the driver voltage range will support it.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 10, 2016)

Tachead said:


> That's why I said "rigged in an emergency". 2xCR123a are definitely too long for this cell compartment size. A couple of rings of copper wire could easily jump the connection in an emergency however as the driver voltage range will support it.



I would suspect this could be dangerous though if you ran it on H1. As the voltage from the batteries drops the light will ramp up the current, possibly to very unsafe levels for two primary CR123 cells.


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## flashlightsarecool (Mar 10, 2016)

Great review as always. A dealer website says there is an audible inductor whine on level H2A. What say you? Thanks.


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## sidecross (Mar 10, 2016)

Tachead said:


> I did not say it did. I was simply speculating why ZL upped the input voltage range.
> 
> As for the advantage of small length, we are talking about less then 4mm here. I personally dont see that as a huge advantage.


I now carry the Mk 3 in a side pocket and a 4mm difference in length is much easier to carry than my older Mk 2; I notice the difference.


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## PieDemon (Mar 10, 2016)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes - it's hard to see, but there is a definite step-down in output, even with fan cooling (at room temp). I don't know how cold you would have to go prevent the PID from kicking in (or reduce it further).



I suppose you could submerge it in cold water along with some added icecubes to keep it near 0 degrees celcius along with some occasional stirring of the water. The torch being IPX7 rated should hold up to it for at least the 30 documented minutes and probably much longer. I don't know if this would mess with your measurement system though, but it would cool it better than ambient air + fan.


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## sidecross (Mar 10, 2016)

PieDemon said:


> I suppose you could submerge it in cold water along with some added icecubes to keep it near 0 degrees celcius along with some occasional stirring of the water. The torch being IPX7 rated should hold up to it for at least the 30 documented minutes and probably much longer. I don't know if this would mess with your measurement system though, but it would cool it better than ambient air + fan.


Or you could have NASA send a Mk 3 to outer space where the temperature is minus 455 degrees Fahrenheit, but it still would not help in using the flashlight on the highest output in daily use.


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## Tachead (Mar 10, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I would suspect this could be dangerous though if you ran it on H1. As the voltage from the batteries drops the light will ramp up the current, possibly to very unsafe levels for two primary CR123 cells.



Of course but, in an emergency over stressing some CR123a's is going to be the least of your worries. Also, realistically H1 is rarely needed anyway. Remember too that the PID kicks in very fast greatly reducing current on H1 as well.


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## Jose Marin (Mar 10, 2016)

flashlightsarecool said:


> Great review as always. A dealer website says there is an audible inductor whine on level H2A. What say you? Thanks.



+1


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## Tachead (Mar 10, 2016)

sidecross said:


> I now carry the Mk 3 in a side pocket and a 4mm difference in length is much easier to carry than my older Mk 2; I notice the difference.



The body of the MKIII is actually 5.6mm shorter but, only 3-4mm of that is due to the cell compartment being shortened. Your probably noticing the other dimensional changes as well. The head of the MKIII is much more streamlined. Its also 12 grams lighter(which is likely only partly due to the cell compartment change). 

Either way, I for one would have gladly accepted 3-4mm in extra length for added cell compatibility, a duel spring or piston design, and the ability to use CR123a's on the lower output levels. The SC63 is a better pocket light anyway.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 10, 2016)

I was curious how the HI version would compare so I did a reading on my Dr. Meter LX1330B Light Meter @2 meters after 30 seconds runtime on H1. 

Converted to 1 meter I get 17.2K Lux. Compared with the 13.3K Selfbuilt got on the regular version I would say it appears there is some benefit to the HI version of the light for throw.

I have no way to measure lumens.


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## Tachead (Mar 10, 2016)

sidecross said:


> Or you could have NASA send a Mk 3 to outer space where the temperature is minus 455 degrees Fahrenheit, but it still would not help in using the flashlight on the highest output in daily use.



That would depend on your use. I sometimes use my lights in -40 to -50C with windchill. I have to keep them in my pocket to keep the batteries warm until the light is on to keep them warm. I think he meant to see the true difference.


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## sidecross (Mar 10, 2016)

Tachead said:


> That would depend on your use. I sometimes use my lights in -40 to -50C with windchill. I have to keep them in my pocket to keep the batteries warm until the light is on to keep them warm. I think he meant to see the true difference.


You need to develop a better sense of humor. :thumbsup:


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## texas cop (Mar 11, 2016)

Thank you for your once again excellent review. I have both the SC600 MkII and MkIII. Here are some of my observations:
Tint is nicer on the CW MkIII than the CW MkII. 
The only two batteries I considered for these lights now are, Samsung INR18650-35E and the Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650 GA. Great capacities, perfect fit, current up to the needed outputs and made by companies that don't scare me. It's a $95.00 light don't get cheap on the batteries.
I like the MkIII size but prefer the extra 1/2 ounce weight on the MkII. I really helps with heat absorption.
UI is as easy or as complex as you want it.
Lastly some thermal foam between the board and the reflector sandwiched in there semi-tight to bleed out more heat and possible dampen out some of the high pitched whine I get in a few hi modes.

This is a $95.00 light I've seen far worse on much more expensive. I do believe that this light is one of a few so far and more already announced employing voltage boost to get better results, performance or output on the next generation of Cree's LED's MT-G2, XHP35,50,70. For the best in single cell single LED setups voltage had to go up and current down to find those high lumen to wattage ratios. I believe a lot of focus is now going to be invested in quiet and efficient boost drivers.


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## markr6 (Mar 11, 2016)

Tachead said:


> That would depend on your use. I sometimes use my lights in -40 to -50C with windchill. I have to keep them in my pocket to keep the batteries warm until the light is on to keep them warm. I think he meant to see the true difference.



I don't want to get off topic, but speaking of temps - I was backpacking last weekend and at about 7°F my H600w II would not run on H1 (I'm not sure if I tried H2). It stepped down to medium whenever I tried it. Just too cold for the battery I guess (NCR18650GA). So cold can obviously be good or bad for performance.


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## TCY (Mar 11, 2016)

Another great review from selfbuilt, Thanks for the effort!

It's good to see that the new MK3 out throws the NC p12. For some reason I was always skeptical about ZL lights' beam range.


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## Uxorious (Mar 11, 2016)

I got a very close number with yours(~17000cd):
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...or-this-year&p=4854974&viewfull=1#post4854974

So maybe this number is close enough to the correct reading?


Thanks so much selfbuilt, you always give us the best review!!
Hope you can get the HI version and tell us the truth soon!! 



ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I was curious how the HI version would compare so I did a reading on my Dr. Meter LX1330B Light Meter @2 meters after 30 seconds runtime on H1.
> 
> Converted to 1 meter I get 17.2K Lux. Compared with the 13.3K Selfbuilt got on the regular version I would say it appears there is some benefit to the HI version of the light for throw.
> 
> I have no way to measure lumens.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 11, 2016)

flashlightsarecool said:


> A dealer website says there is an audible inductor whine on level H2A. What say you? Thanks.





texas cop said:


> Lastly some thermal foam between the board and the reflector sandwiched in there semi-tight to bleed out more heat and possible dampen out some of the high pitched whine I get in a few hi modes.


Not on my sample (or my ears) - I can't hear anything on any of the modes. Inductor whine is possible on any light that uses them (which is most), although I expect the potting here should greatly attenuate it (if present).



ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I was curious how the HI version would compare so I did a reading on my Dr. Meter LX1330B Light Meter @2 meters after 30 seconds runtime on H1. Converted to 1 meter I get 17.2K Lux. Compared with the 13.3K Selfbuilt got on the regular version I would say it appears there is some benefit to the HI version of the light for throw.


That sounds reasonable. You could take it out to 10m and calculate back to be consistent with my measures. However, while I don't know that meter, for other similar budget-priced ones I've noticed that calibration can be off to up to ~30% (or more). But I would expect something in the ~17K range is not unreasonable for a HI version.



Tachead said:


> That would depend on your use. I sometimes use my lights in -40 to -50C with windchill. I have to keep them in my pocket to keep the batteries warm until the light is on to keep them warm. I think he meant to see the true difference.


Yeah, really cold ambient temps are interesting, but I think I'll leave it fan cooling. I've experimented with ice packs (etc) on occasion, and it does tend to get pretty messy in my office.


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## sdr (Mar 11, 2016)

Kudos, Selfbuilt, for this great review ~ Thanks, mate!

I purchased my first Zebralight SC600 back in November of 2011 and have since bought and carried the Mk II L2 cool white and neutral Mk II L2 in addition to my present day Mk III cool white, such as the one in Selfbuilt's excellent review. 

What I can state unequivocally based upon my experience of more than 4 years of daily use is that this platform, the SC600, is one of the best, most dependable single celled 18650 LED flashlights on the market today. Regardless of which version I have used they have each performed flawlessly, day in and day out, month after month. My original SC600 works as well today as it did the very first day it was called into service nearly 4 and a half years ago. 

It seems like only yesterday that I was blown away by the 750 lumens of that first SC600. And now we're talking about the Mk III which nearly doubles that output while shrinking a half inch in length and shedding more than a half ounce in weight. I call that simply amazing!

So, again, thank you for this excellent review of what I personally know to be a really great flashlight! I can't help but wonder what the future holds for the possibility of a Mk IV? Do I dare to dream!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 11, 2016)

It's amazing to see a SC600 MkI next to a SC600 MkIII. The size difference can really be appreciated.


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## sticktodrum (Mar 12, 2016)

Tachead said:


> Of course but, in an emergency over stressing some CR123a's is going to be the least of your worries. Also, realistically H1 is rarely needed anyway. Remember too that the PID kicks in very fast greatly reducing current on H1 as well.


But all of that seems a bit of a stretch to deal with for an "emergency," assuming it's an actual emergency where power fails and all other flashlights either don't work or have been raptured off somewhere. At which point, it'd seem more prudent to just have a CR123a light somewhere with a stash of primaries as opposed to the right length and gauge of wire to jury rig this particular light. 

Sure, it's all for the sake of argument I'm guessing, but it sounds like a grossly unrealistic one. Less realistic than needing H1 from this light.


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## regulator (Mar 12, 2016)

Nice review Selfbuilt. I like my SC600 MKIII CW a lot and like the new design/shape. I bought the 18650 (3500 ma) cell from Zebralight whith the light and do not have an issue. If I had a choice though, I would prefer a slight increase in length to accommodate a protected cell and have the capability of running 2 cr123's. My collection of Zebralights has now grown to a SC80, SC600 MKII, SC62w, and SC600 MKIII cw.


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## recDNA (Mar 12, 2016)

regulator said:


> Nice review Selfbuilt. I like my SC600 MKIII CW a lot and like the new design/shape. I bought the 18650 (3500 ma) cell from Zebralight whith the light and do not have an issue. If I had a choice though, I would prefer a slight increase in length to accommodate a protected cell and have the capability of running 2 cr123's. My collection of Zebralights has now grown to a SC80, SC600 MKII, SC62w, and SC600 MKIII cw.


I couldn't agree more. Some drivers recognize CR123A and automatically step down the current. ZebraLight could easily do that. All they would really need to do is disable H1 so you go right to H2.


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## Tachead (Mar 12, 2016)

recDNA said:


> I couldn't agree more. Some drivers recognize CR123A and automatically step down the current. ZebraLight could easily do that. All they would really need to do is disable H1 so you go right to H2.




+2


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## sidecross (Mar 12, 2016)

How many on this forum have just one flashlight?

If anyone is in the position of having just one flashlight then the SC600 Mk3 is not the one to have.

The SC600 Mk3 is not a utility flashlight; it is a sophisticated designed light for small size and good power. The market has a good choice of flashlights for those who want a bullet proof flashlights that run on CR123a batteries.


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## pblanch (Mar 21, 2016)

Really not happy on the battery limit size.


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## Tachead (Mar 21, 2016)

pblanch said:


> Really not happy on the battery limit size.




You are not the only one. It has been the biggest criticism with these lights and stopped many people from purchasing them. They are the only flashlight I have ever heard of with a 0.2mm cell tolerance:thumbsdow.


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## akhyar (Mar 21, 2016)

Some of members-designed flashlights at the other forum can only accept non-protected cell, so I think it might be a trend to move to that direction due to the use of high-drain cells.
Furthermore, non-protected cells tend to be cheaper than their protected counterpart, eg if you compare the price of stock Sanyo NCR18650GA over the re-wrappers protected cells like 3500mAh from Keeppower, Obtronics, EVVA, etc.

I'm actually more peeved with Nitecore's decision of only using button-top cells, but that doesn't stop me from owning 4 Nitecore's lights.
All I can say is, some might not be pleased with ZL decision, but to some it is a non-issue


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2016)

akhyar said:


> All I can say is, some might not be pleased with ZL decision, but to some it is a non-issue



Non-issue to me. Buy an NCR18650GA for a decent price ($8) and you're done. The only extra step I take is wrapping it with a clear wrapper to eliminate (the slight) rattle.

I used to buy only button tops, so now I can't use those. But you won't see me complaining for an extra $7. I'll keep using those button tops in other lights. I like to pair cells to lights anyway.


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## tonkem (Mar 21, 2016)

I agree. Prior to purchasing the new SC63, I did not own a non button top unprotected cell, but they are so cheap compared to the protected batteries that I have purchased in the past, that it is a non issue. I may end up changing all my batteries to the unprotected batteries, since I own mainly Zebralights, in rechargeable lights. 



markr6 said:


> Non-issue to me. Buy an NCR18650GA for a decent price ($8) and you're done. The only extra step I take is wrapping it with a clear wrapper to eliminate (the slight) rattle.
> 
> I used to buy only button tops, so now I can't use those. But you won't see me complaining for an extra $7. I'll keep using those button tops in other lights. I like to pair cells to lights anyway.


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## Mr. LED (Mar 21, 2016)

Why doesn't Zebralight make flashlights that accept both protected cells and CR123.

I love their design, customizable UI and everything else, but this.

I just bought a SC62w so that I can use my protected cells. I can't use CR123 in either of them, anyway. :mecry:


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## sidecross (Mar 21, 2016)

Mr. LED said:


> Why doesn't Zebralight make flashlights that accept both protected cells and CR123.
> 
> I love their design, customizable UI and everything else, but this.
> 
> I just bought a SC62w so that I can use my protected cells. I can't use CR123 in either of them, anyway. :mecry:


ZebraLight is not a mass market maker of flashlights; they design flashlights for a market that can appreciate their design philosophy.


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## texas cop (Mar 21, 2016)

Mr. LED said:


> Why doesn't Zebralight make flashlights that accept both protected cells and CR123.
> 
> I love their design, customizable UI and everything else, but this.
> 
> I just bought a SC62w so that I can use my protected cells. I can't use CR123 in either of them, anyway. :mecry:



This particular light is a bit of a hot rod it would take 4-CR123A's to properly run it. Single cell 18650's are drawing 4-5 amps. If sized for the 2-CR123A's then just about any 18650 would fit and all the problems with cheap cells, low threshold PCB's would pop up. Zebralight's thinking is "We put built in safeties, we can run it like a hot rod and all the customer has to do is use a proper high drain/high quality cell" Personally all of my 18650's are button top protected, especially in multi cell applications, except for this light. Just here their not and it's a cool little light.


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2016)

I think the max draw on a CR123 is 1.5A-3.0A depending on the cell. And that upper end could be the pulse rate. I could be wrong, but either way 2x123 in this light would scare me.


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## Mr. LED (Mar 21, 2016)

The Olight S30 runs fine on 2xCR123, XM-L2 and 1000 lumens (stepped down to 600 after a couple of minutes).
Does the XHP35 draw more amps than XM-L2?

Enlighten me, please.


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## markr6 (Mar 22, 2016)

Mr. LED said:


> The Olight S30 runs fine on 2xCR123, XM-L2 and 1000 lumens (stepped down to 600 after a couple of minutes).
> Does the XHP35 draw more amps than XM-L2?
> 
> Enlighten me, please.



I've heard people reporting around 5A. But all I seem to measure on my DMM is around 3.3A. Still a decent current for this small light, though.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 22, 2016)

Mr. LED said:


> Why doesn't Zebralight make flashlights that accept both protected cells and CR123.





markr6 said:


> I think the max draw on a CR123 is 1.5A-3.0A depending on the cell. And that upper end could be the pulse rate. I could be wrong, but either way 2x123 in this light would scare me.


Just speculating here, but I believe the PID would have to be calibrated a LOT lower to run these Zebralights on 2xCR123A. I've seen many highly-driven 2xCR123A lights (including those with timed step-downs) trigger the PTC protection feature of CR123As on max output. Due to the chemistry differences, CR123A will run a lot hotter under high current loads. 2xCR123A is not well suited for maximally-driven lights.


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## Tachead (Mar 22, 2016)

There is no reason it couldnt support protected cells though. There is many easily accessible protected cells that can handle 10amps+ continuous. 

Protected isnt even the worst part though. Its the fact that there is only a 0.2mm cell tolerance which greatly limits even what bare cells can be used. Not to mention the weak contact pressure of the pogo pins which can cause cell rattle and connection loss with certain cells even withing the 0.2mm tolerance. Its just a poor cell compartment design in general imo. I think ZL realized that too and thats why they went back to the spring tail cap when the SC63 came out.


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## markr6 (Mar 22, 2016)

I think it's just the progress of making them smaller. You look at the numbers and think "1/8" isn't worth it" but then you look at the previous model, then the previous to that, and you see how the size starts to matter.

No complaints with my SC600w III HI - NCR18650GA is inexpensive, perfect fit (especially after adding shrink wrapper) and tight but not too tight length-wise so the pogos are doing their job.

No complaints about my SC63w either, but that spring is compressed SOOOO tight, it might as well be the same tolerance as the dual-pogo pin design.

If 18650s were still $20/ea, I would complain about not being able to use my old stock. But at $8/ea or less, I'm fine buying new ones to fit the new Zebralights. I scored 8 NCR18650GA for $16...$2 per cell!! That was a nice score.


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## recDNA (Mar 22, 2016)

markr6 said:


> I think it's just the progress of making them smaller. You look at the numbers and think "1/8" isn't worth it" but then you look at the previous model, then the previous to that, and you see how the size starts to matter.
> 
> No complaints with my SC600w III HI - NCR18650GA is inexpensive, perfect fit (especially after adding shrink wrapper) and tight but not too tight length-wise so the pogos are doing their job.
> 
> ...


I don't like battery crushing springs. Too tight IS too tight.


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## Vothelo (Mar 22, 2016)

Where did you find NCR18650GA for $2 each!?!?


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## akhyar (Mar 22, 2016)

markr6 said:


> If 18650s were still $20/ea, I would complain about not being able to use my old stock. But at $8/ea or less, I'm fine buying new ones to fit the new Zebralights. I scored 8 NCR18650GA for $16...$2 per cell!! That was a nice score.



That was an awesome price for NCR GA.
High drain cells are reasonably priced nowadays as I managed to snag few Samsung 30Q for $3 a pop few months back.


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## markr6 (Mar 22, 2016)

Vothelo said:


> Where did you find NCR18650GA for $2 each!?!?



Ebay! Normally I wouldn't trust most sellers there, but it was a reputable seller unloading some overstock.


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## Vothelo (Mar 23, 2016)

Wow! Great find!


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## markr6 (Mar 23, 2016)

recDNA said:


> I don't like battery crushing springs. Too tight IS too tight.



Definitely not a crusher since it is a spring afterall. It gives plenty to make sure of that...but I guess you can call it a battery "etcher". Damn, I'm waiting for the thing to cut a circular sheet of metal out of the negative terminal!


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## Tachead (Mar 23, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Definitely not a crusher since it is a spring afterall. It gives plenty to make sure of that...but I guess you can call it a battery "etcher". Damn, I'm waiting for the thing to cut a circular sheet of metal out of the negative terminal!



It sure sounds like the spring is close to, if not fully, compressed. I think it was an after though by ZL to deal with the battery rattle/cell tolerance issues that the duel pogo pin designs have. They probably should have started making the bodies a few mm longer if they were going to switch to a spring. It doesnt need to be that compressed and making it longer would have enabled a wider selection of cells to be used including button tops and prevented the risk of cell deformation.


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## markr6 (Mar 23, 2016)

Luckily I haven't seen the cell get deformed. Even if it does, I don't care. I know it won't hurt anything. I've done far worst dropping them or damaging them by removing solder. A .05mm dent on the raised portion of the positive terminal is the least of my concerns.


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## recDNA (Mar 23, 2016)

I have had cells deformed because of spring. I am ultra careful but I actually recycled one. It was a big 16340 and it was deformed by an eagletac I had. I knew it was too tight.


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## sidecross (Mar 23, 2016)

An interesting dielemma if ZebraLight switched to a spring from the 'pogo pins' because of consumers concern over riding an engineering design.

ZebraLight has a problem and it is how to market an engineering design for consumers who are not fully informed and think their conclusions are more informed.


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## Tachead (Mar 23, 2016)

sidecross said:


> An interesting dielemma if ZebraLight switched to a spring from the 'pogo pins' because of consumers concern over riding an engineering design.
> 
> ZebraLight has a problem and it is how to market an engineering design for consumers who are not fully informed and think their conclusions are more informed.



I'm guessing ZL switched to the spring tail cap because of warranty/defect claims on lights with battery rattle and contact issues. It was a quick way/fix to stop cell tolerance issues by increasing contact pressure(remember they made the change mid way through production because the specs originally said it would have a pogo pin tailcap). I dont see why else they would have done it when they already were making pogo pin tailcaps and planned to use them on the SC63. It seems like a logical conclusion but, I could be wrong. Either way, the pogo pins and their 0.2mm cell range are a poor design because they either crush batteries, cause cell rattle, or cause connection issues with many users. Not to mention severely limiting cell selection. I wouldnt be surprised if they went with a different design on future versions of their lights. They already have with the SC63(at least with the tail cap).


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## markr6 (Mar 23, 2016)

Time for KISS with these lights. Buy the light and the battery they also sell (NCR18650GA). Done.

Pogo pins work fine on my SC600 HI, SC5w OP, and two MKIII's that I had and sold (I did wrap these due to the wider tube). So there's no reason it can't work with a revised SC63w. I wouldn't be surprised to see that make a comeback in the near future.


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## Tachead (Mar 23, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Time for KISS with these lights. Buy the light and the battery they also sell (NCR18650GA). Done.
> 
> Pogo pins work fine on my SC600 HI, SC5w OP, and two MKIII's that I had and sold (I did wrap these due to the wider tube). So there's no reason it can't work with a revised SC63w. I wouldn't be surprised to see that make a comeback in the near future.



You shouldnt have to rewrap cells to make them work properly in a flashlight. I never have had to with any of the many flashlights I have used and owned. You are one of the lucky ones Mark. Many others have complained about connection issues, battery rattle, and crushed cells in lights with this design(even recently shipped ones). Even Nkon, one of the largest European ZL dealers, has a warning on these lights that they may not work with some cells including the one you listed that ZL sells. 

*"This light needs batteries of 65mm long, it does not work with protected batteries (like from Keeppower, EagleTac or Enerpower) because these are too long. Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit." 


*That is cut and pasted from the HI model too(one of the newest releases). So some, although not all, still have issues. It wasnt just the initial batch. 

People can argue or tell themselves whatever they want in their head but, this design does have issues. It is no where near as reliable as a duel spring design with or without jumpers or a second inner spring. It also has the tightest cell tolerances I have ever seen on a flashlight in 25 years of being in this hobby(0.2mm tolerance). ZL could have used a design that wouldnt have caused these issues and would have even allowed for more cells, even protected cells of adequate continuous amp output, they just didnt. It was a bad decision imo and that 4mm reduction in length has come at a cost. It will be interesting to see what they do with new models going forward. I for one hope they change to either a more traditional design or a new one that is more forgiving and still maintains the many advantages of a traditional design.


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## markr6 (Mar 23, 2016)

*I didn't say I had to wrap them to work properly.* There is just the slightest click when I tap the end against my hand. I nit-pick like that. Not a big deal since the cell thicknesses can vary and this happens in so many lights. I like to wrap them anyway since the NCR18650GA wrapper is cheap feeling. I just like the cells to fit tight.

I don't know what Nkon is about. I can put any naked call in any of these lights and they work fine. Maybe the early SC63 was an exception. I must have gotten the revision.

As usual, there are a TON of assumptions and hearsay evidence when it comes to Zebralight and why they did certain things.

Do you even own _a single_ Zebralight yet? I'm serious, not being a jerk about it. It's just that I've had at least 20 different Zebralights in my hands at some point over the past 4 years and they perform well above so many other lights I've had. Zebralight is a magnet for criticism because they are one of the best. At least that's my opinion.


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## Tachead (Mar 23, 2016)

markr6 said:


> *I didn't say I had to wrap them to work properly.* There is just the slightest click when I tap the end against my hand. I nit-pick like that. Not a big deal since the cell thicknesses can vary and this happens in so many lights. I like to wrap them anyway since the NCR18650GA wrapper is cheap feeling. I just like the cells to fit tight.
> 
> I don't know what Nkon is about. I can put any naked call in any of these lights and they work fine. Maybe the early SC63 was an exception. I must have gotten the revision.
> 
> ...



Yes, a couple of headlamps. One of the best in some ways for sure but, they still have many areas where they are far from the best and need improvement imo. This new cell compartment design definitely falls into the needs improvement category imo. I personally think it is a step backwards when compared to their old design. YMMV.


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## sidecross (Mar 23, 2016)

Tachead said:


> Yes, a couple of headlamps. One of the best in some ways for sure but, they still have many areas where they are far from the best and need improvement imo. This new cell compartment design definitely falls into the needs improvement category imo. I personally think it is a step backwards when compared to their old design. YMMV.


"Best" in flashlights is a time dependent evaluation, and if the last three years is an example what was best then, it is certainly made room for other flashlights that could now be placed in that category.

ZebraLight from my own experience is for a more advanced end user of flashlights who has knowledge about lithium ion batteries, the function of drivers, and an understanding of the newest development in LED technology.

From the discussion about protected batteries vs standard flat top 18650 lithium batteries on this forum, it is not hard to see how the marketing of protected batteries has made quite abit of money for those who sell and promote this one kind of lithium battery. The difference in price between the two does not seem to be justified.

There is definitely a need for protected batteries used in series or parallel as a precaution for those whose understanding of lithium ion batteries is limited, but I use unprotected flashlights in series and I am still here to write about it.

ZebraLight's decision to produce their newest SC600 Mk lll may be as surprised as I am about some of the complaints being made here on CPF.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 23, 2016)

It's just so painful reading through the threads on this light. The battery compartment is what it is. If you don't like it just move on and quit complaining, really. I think this light is great. Best SC6000 yet. I commend the decision to move to the unprotected smaller battery as the size of the light has shrunk while performance has increased. 

I honestly don't care if my battery gets a little mark on from a spring or a pogo-pin. It's metal on metal - something's gotta make a mark somewhere. 

This is hands down a great light. At it's price point I would be hard pressed for find another light that has as many check boxes on the pros side as this one. 

If you disagree with me that's cool, but I have a right to my opinion as well and I have nothing bad to say about this light except for wishing it has a screw on clip like the other ZL lights. But with the Dark Sucks clip fitting this light well I have a great alternative.


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## sidecross (Mar 23, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> It's just so painful reading through the threads on this light. The battery compartment is what it is. If you don't like it just move on and quit complaining, really. I think this light is great. Best SC6000 yet. I commend the decision to move to the unprotected smaller battery as the size of the light has shrunk while performance has increased.
> 
> I honestly don't care if my battery gets a little mark on from a spring or a pogo-pin. It's metal on metal - something's gotta make a mark somewhere.
> 
> ...


+1

I agree with you. :thumbsup:


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## akhyar (Mar 23, 2016)

sidecross said:


> +1
> 
> I agree with you. :thumbsup:



+2


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## scout24 (Mar 24, 2016)

Out of respect to Selfbuilt, and his review thread, I deleted 39 posts made today. Most of the players are aware of what transpired. None of it was productive or related to this review. Any questions, please PM me. Carry on.


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## fnsooner (Mar 24, 2016)

Great review selfbuilt. Thanks.


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## Tachead (Mar 24, 2016)

fnsooner said:


> Great review selfbuilt. Thanks.




+1


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## 18650 (Mar 27, 2016)

Tachead said:


> You shouldnt have to rewrap cells to make them work properly in a flashlight. I never have had to with any of the many flashlights I have used and owned. You are one of the lucky ones Mark. Many others have complained about connection issues, battery rattle, and crushed cells in lights with this design(even recently shipped ones). Even Nkon, one of the largest European ZL dealers, has a warning on these lights that they may not work with some cells including the one you listed that ZL sells. *"This light needs batteries of 65mm long, it does not work with protected batteries (like from Keeppower, EagleTac or Enerpower) because these are too long. Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit." *That is cut and pasted from the HI model too(one of the newest releases). So some, although not all, still have issues. It wasnt just the initial batch. People can argue or tell themselves whatever they want in their head but, this design does have issues. It is no where near as reliable as a duel spring design with or without jumpers or a second inner spring. It also has the tightest cell tolerances I have ever seen on a flashlight in 25 years of being in this hobby(0.2mm tolerance). ZL could have used a design that wouldnt have caused these issues and would have even allowed for more cells, even protected cells of adequate continuous amp output, they just didnt. It was a bad decision imo and that 4mm reduction in length has come at a cost. It will be interesting to see what they do with new models going forward. I for one hope they change to either a more traditional design or a new one that is more forgiving and still maintains the many advantages of a traditional design.


 Don't make tube long enough to accommodate varying length cells? Complain! Make tube wide enough to accommodate varying width cells? Complain! They can't win! Judging by SB's review, there's not much wrong with this thing.


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## newbie66 (Mar 28, 2016)

39 posts deleted? Wow! What happened?? Never mind. No need to tell me.


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## bodhran (Mar 28, 2016)

I was there and not involved, but my post about how much I like the MK III was also deleted.


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## sidecross (Mar 28, 2016)

bodhran said:


> I was there and not involved, but my post about how much I like the MK III was also deleted.


I would call that "collateral damage' and would not be surprised if your comment and mine are deleted too.


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## scout24 (Mar 28, 2016)

Bodhran- Your post mentioned the rattle issue and your solution to it. My intent was to remove the posts that were off topic to Selfbuilt's review, mine included, and those that beat the dead horse of the battery fitment issue to death. These included my posts, another Mod's posts, and posts supporting both points of view. I asked for questions to be sent to me via PM...  Please, let's let this one go...


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## jondextan (Mar 29, 2016)

Great review selfbuilt!


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## EBuff75 (Apr 3, 2016)

Thanks a lot for this review! I ordered one about three weeks ago after doing some reading and this thread helped me decide to pull the trigger on it. Hoping that they get them back in stock soon to fill the backlog of orders!


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 7, 2016)

Have had my MkIII HI for almost two months now and overall it is freaking stellar with top notch design for the size and shape of the light. I also bought the Sanyo GA off of the ZL site. I thought the GA fit fine at first but after reading through this thread about battery rattle I just ckeck my MkIII HI out and to my surprise yes there is indeed battery rattle. A couple days ago I pulled the HI out to use clicked it on H1 which came on then just went out after 2 seconds. Perplexed I tried tuning it on 2 more times and it would not turn on. Totally at a loss I double checked the tailcap was tight then tried it again it came back on again. This only has happened once in my time with the light. Am at a loss as to what caused this. The GA was fresh off the charger when this happened. Somehow someway something was not making full contact with the cell. Could it have something to do with the cell being off angle or just off proper connection by being a touch off center inside the due to the clearance around the cell that allows it to rattle I am assuming this may be the case. Does anybody have any suggestions with what I can wrap the cell in to eliminate the rattling? All that being said the HI is flat out amazing. ZL design team down in Texas must be one of the best in the industry. Cutting edge electronics design that is top shelf everything from PID to having all the necessary protections built into the electronics somehow all fitting into the tiny amount of space in the head and potted to boot. It does get hot but does not get as hot as my MkII and takes just over twice as long to get almost hot vs the MkII. Totally fascinating stuff. I have heard the light make zero noise at any output level. Switch feel vs the MkII is better on the MkIII. MkIII switch material feels like a softer material than the MkII. MkIII switch in my observation requires a touch less pressure to click and seems to have a touch less travel to click it vs the MkII which seems I need to press a touch harder and the switch presses in deeper to click.

Still pleased as punch with the HI. Even at $99 I see it as a very high value light. I do not know of any other light made by anybody else that packs such high output, stellar electronics into this small a package let alone potted. All the anodization on my HI matches color from head to tail cap. Build quality on mine in ingot like. Still would love to hear anybody suggest what wrap is needed to eliminate the rattle...


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## markr6 (Apr 8, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> Does anybody have any suggestions with what I can wrap the cell in to eliminate the rattling?



Gotta get the clear wrappers! $1.00/10 pack at Illumn, but available all over the place online. Slip it on, trim a few mm, hit it with a hair dryer. PERFECT fit. Other colors may fit, but can't say for sure. They could be slightly thicker. I just know the clear is a perfect fit. I did have one that made the cell not fit out of 6 I tried...the tolerance is that close! There is a seam on the wrapper, which can be "shaved" down afterwards using scissors of a knife if you're real close on the fit.


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## newbie66 (Apr 12, 2016)

Nice! But I would leave it as it is. Luckily rattle does not bother me too much.


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## mico (Apr 21, 2016)

sidecross said:


> Or you could have NASA send a Mk 3 to outer space where the temperature is minus 455 degrees Fahrenheit, but it still would not help in using the flashlight on the highest output in daily use.


It would be the worst thing to do. Space isn't cold. There's nothing there in space, so nothing at minus 455 degrees to cool the torch down: No conductive cooling, no convection currents, it could only cool down through thermal radiation which would be pretty slow. The Zebra would be otherwise thermally insulated in space...


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## InspectHerGadget (Apr 24, 2016)

EBuff75 said:


> Thanks a lot for this review! I ordered one about three weeks ago after doing some reading and this thread helped me decide to pull the trigger on it. Hoping that they get them back in stock soon to fill the backlog of orders!


Up to their old tricks being six weeks behind in orders. Very nice light though. Had mine since they first came out. I lost my SC11


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## recDNA (May 6, 2016)

Mr. LED said:


> Why doesn't Zebralight make flashlights that accept both protected cells and CR123.
> 
> I love their design, customizable UI and everything else, but this.
> 
> I just bought a SC62w so that I can use my protected cells. I can't use CR123 in either of them, anyway. :mecry:


Sc32w does.


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## Mr. LED (May 7, 2016)

I know, I have one. But I was talking about 18650/2xCR123 configuration.


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## recDNA (May 7, 2016)

Oh, I agree. I wish they adapted the circuit for 2 X CR123 even if H1 were excluded.


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## GunnarGG (May 7, 2016)

If you are in a pinch the Sc62 works with 1xCR123 and a spacer or a tin foil ball.
Works fine at low and medium at least.


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## oKtosiTe (May 29, 2016)

I think this light has made all my others obsolete.

I have a minor qualm with the pocket clip when attached near the head, though. It doesn't go down all the way because of the shape of the top of the pocket clip, making it very easy to scratch the anodizing on the head. The clip also doesn't have a lot of tension when compared to my S10R-II.


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## oKtosiTe (Jul 23, 2016)

Has anyone done a beamshot comparison between the SC600 III and the SC600w HI? I'm considering getting the HI (already own the regular), but am just wondering if it will be worth it for my purposes. I looked around for a while, but couldn't find anything.


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## witness (Aug 7, 2016)

Anyone know where you can get the *Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Battery* in Canada? 

Ps. Don't tell me about Ebay because a lithium ion battery is the LAST thing I'd buy from a questionable source.


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## CelticCross74 (Aug 7, 2016)

ZL's own site sells the legit GA. Not sure about shipping regulations when it comes to Li-ion cross the border though. Had the HI months now and somehow the rattle is gone and the light just kicks rear ends. Finally figured out what my issue was above. When the light is clipped into my front right pocket just the motion of me walking can start to unscrew the tail cap. So I always just double check it.


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## witness (Aug 7, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> ZL's own site sells the legit GA. Not sure about shipping regulations when it comes to Li-ion cross the border though. Had the HI months now and somehow the rattle is gone and the light just kicks rear ends. Finally figured out what my issue was above. When the light is clipped into my front right pocket just the motion of me walking can start to unscrew the tail cap. So I always just double check it.



I placed and order for the light and battery from Zebralight on Thursday but never got a confirmation. They make a big deal on the website about only shipping the battery to US customers so I'm expecting the order to get flagged and suspended before shipment. I guess I'll have to wait and see but I'm not optimistic.


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## witness (Aug 8, 2016)

Yay!!!! It looks like my order has shipped so I guess shipping the battery to Canada isn't an issue.


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## PDXBG1521 (Aug 8, 2016)

Looking for a replacement of the Olight M20 I lost, thanks for the review


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## roger-roger (Aug 8, 2016)

oKtosiTe said:


> Has anyone done a beamshot comparison between the SC600 III and the SC600w HI? I'm considering getting the HI (already own the regular), but am just wondering if it will be worth it for my purposes. I looked around for a while, but couldn't find anything.



My short term impressions are the basic SC600 out performs the HI at <35' and depending on how the light is being used, even a bit further. The clean Zebralight "wall of light" really comes into its own at moderate distances. Sure would have liked to keep both, especially since the HI has such a beautifully designed beam pattern, but my useable wouldn't justify having both.


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## witness (Aug 15, 2016)

Those idiots at Zebralight went ahead and shipped me the light without the batteries (that I ordered) and didn't even bother to let me know they weren't filling the entire order. They actually expected me to accept shipment of a light that I can't use (because the batteries can't be found anywhere that I know of in Canada). Screw them. I'll stick with reputable companies in the future.


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## Springer1911 (Aug 15, 2016)

witness said:


> Those idiots at Zebralight went ahead and shipped me the light without the batteries (that I ordered) and didn't even bother to let me know they weren't filling the entire order. They actually expected me to accept shipment of a light that I can't use (because the batteries can't be found anywhere that I know of in Canada). Screw them. I'll stick with reputable companies in the future.



That's very unfortunate, I know you said that you didn't want to get batteries from ebay but I reckon you are way more concerned about it than you should be.


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## markr6 (Aug 15, 2016)

witness said:


> Those idiots at Zebralight went ahead and shipped me the light without the batteries (that I ordered) and didn't even bother to let me know they weren't filling the entire order. They actually expected me to accept shipment of a light that I can't use (because the batteries can't be found anywhere that I know of in Canada). Screw them. I'll stick with reputable companies in the future.



Contact them and see what's going on. They either shipped the battery separate for some reason and could be in your mail tomorrow, or they made a mistake. If the latter, you may be getting a free battery. That doesn't let you use your light now, but it will work out.


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## oKtosiTe (Aug 15, 2016)

witness said:


> Those idiots at Zebralight went ahead and shipped me the light without the batteries (that I ordered) and didn't even bother to let me know they weren't filling the entire order. They actually expected me to accept shipment of a light that I can't use (because the batteries can't be found anywhere that I know of in Canada). Screw them. I'll stick with reputable companies in the future.



Are you positive that the batteries may not have been removed by customs?


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## tksingh (Aug 19, 2016)

Hey Witness, unprotected 18650 are available at all the vape (ecig) shops everywhere in Canada. They are even higher amp versions, 2500-3000 mah, LG HG2(brown wrapper) 20 A, Samsung 30q, or Samsung 25r....they are $12-$15 cdn.

cheers


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## oKtosiTe (Aug 20, 2016)

tksingh said:


> Hey Witness, unprotected 18650 are available at all the vape (ecig) shops everywhere in Canada. They are even higher amp versions, 2500-3000 mah, LG HG2(brown wrapper) 20 A, Samsung 30q, or Samsung 25r....they are $12-$15 cdn.
> 
> cheers


Is that from tax or are they making a decent profit?


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## tksingh (Aug 21, 2016)

Batteries (and many other things!) are quite a bit more than in the US, it's also in CDN currency...

cheers


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## RTTR (Aug 23, 2016)

oKtosiTe said:


> Are you positive that the batteries may not have been removed by customs?



The question is did he even pay for it, Zebralight probably didn't ship it to Canada as it says batteries > "ships to us customers only"


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## witness (Aug 27, 2016)

I just got the MK111 and don't see anything anywhere on programming the PID. Where/how is this done?

Oops... never mind. I found the information I was looking for.


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## mntbighker (Sep 8, 2016)

mico said:


> It would be the worst thing to do. Space isn't cold. There's nothing there in space, so nothing at minus 455 degrees to cool the torch down: No conductive cooling, no convection currents, it could only cool down through thermal radiation which would be pretty slow. The Zebra would be otherwise thermally insulated in space...


I was going to say the same thing, but I figured I would be hassled for having no sense of humor. I have worked at NASA for about 20 years.


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## mico (Sep 20, 2016)

mntbighker said:


> I was going to say the same thing, but I figured I would be hassled for having no sense of humor. I have worked at NASA for about 20 years.


I was actually looking for trouble - but all I got was a NASA employee agreeing with me!!


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## mico (Sep 20, 2016)

roger-roger said:


> My short term impressions are the basic SC600 out performs the HI at <35' and depending on how the light is being used, even a bit further. The clean Zebralight "wall of light" really comes into its own at moderate distances. Sure would have liked to keep both, especially since the HI has such a beautifully designed beam pattern, but my useable wouldn't justify having both.


Are you saying you kept the standard and let the HI go?!

I have the standard, I like it a lot. The HI sounds to be better in all the ways which didn't draw me to the (zebra)light in the first place.... (But it's also back in stock!!)


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## K9Patrol (Dec 31, 2016)

I just received this light today and discovered an undocumented mode that's probably worth adding to the review text. There's a 5th beacon mode (Location beacon). If you turn off the light in L2 and then triple-click to activate the beacon modes, the .2hz low mode will then become a location beacon. Turning the light off when in L1 and then doing the same will revert it back to its default mid-output .2hz mode.

I expect this to be useful to anyone (like me) who has inadvertently gotten it into this mode and doesn't know how to get it back to normal, or to someone wanting to use the location beacon function. By the looks of the specs, it could probably be left on indefinitely without any significant impact to the battery.


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## photonhoer (Jun 27, 2017)

It's been a while since my last post [I've been off in the wilds more than home, it seems]. I really appreciate your SC600 Mk III review, as I now need a new higher-intensity light to replace some >>>10-yrs old ones I have carried in vehicles over the years. Seems like this ZL is a good balance, and so one is on order. I still use my original Q5 and SC51s all the time.
Thanks again for your valuable work.


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## sp5it (Jun 30, 2017)

Pardon my ignorance but what is a difference between: 
Zebralight SC600w MK3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7674O/?tag=cpf0b6-20
Zebralight SC600 MK3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU70MTA/?tag=cpf0b6-20
TIA, Mike


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## greatbluewhite (Jun 30, 2017)

sp5it said:


> Pardon my ignorance but what is a difference between:
> Zebralight SC600w MK3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7674O/?tag=cpf0b6-20
> Zebralight SC600 MK3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU70MTA/?tag=cpf0b6-20
> TIA, Mike


The tints are different. The 'w' has a warmer tint, and is called Neutral White by Zebra. Its tint is rated at 4500 Kelvin. The other one is Cool White and rated at 5700 Kelvin. Lower Kelvin number means warmer tint.

Tint is a matter of preference and context (e.g. Outdoor has more green, brown and red, and warmer tints give better contrast. Urban usage has more white and grey, and cooler tint personally allows for better identification of non-white on objects that are supposed to be clean and white.).

I have the Cool White, and it's just right for me as I live in an urban area.


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## vadimax (Aug 9, 2017)

Received a SC600w HI today. It does not crush a NCR18650GA. The only drawback -- barely noticeable LED displacement. I guess other people wouldn't even notice it, but I am too picky as always.

One more "feature" worth attention: heats up rather quickly at H1. Cannot imagine practical use of H1 in Zebras with thinner bodies. They should burn fingers in half a minute.


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## markr6 (Aug 9, 2017)

vadimax said:


> Received a SC600w HI today. It does not crush a NCR18650GA.



It took me months of (almost no) use to see it. Not sure if it happens over time or just at once. I don't think there's much if any variance on the cell length, so expect it to happen. I don't think it's the light either, unless they changed the pogo length (unlikely since mine are so short as is)


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## vadimax (Aug 9, 2017)

markr6 said:


> It took me months of (almost no) use to see it. Not sure if it happens over time or just at once. I don't think there's much if any variance on the cell length, so expect it to happen. I don't think it's the light either, unless they changed the pogo length (unlikely since mine are so short as is)



Hmm... Strange enough. May that be a thermal issue? H1 -> battery hot -> its body extends more than aluminum body of the light, eh?


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## sp5it (Aug 9, 2017)

It is enough to drop torch once and battery crushed.


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## vadimax (Aug 10, 2017)

sp5it said:


> It is enough to drop torch once and battery crushed.



To overprotect myself I use VTC6 in the light. It is 44.9 mm long.


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## KhazukX (Sep 10, 2017)

Many thanks to the OP.  This review was a major factor in my decision to get the SC600 Mk3 HI. I'm a newbie to the flashlight world so I can't distinguish yet a good tint from bad but this light rocks! Working flawlessly on LG 18650HG2 and Sanyo NCR18650GA 18650s.


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