# Liteflux LF2XT (Part 3)



## victor01 (Apr 2, 2009)

*Continued from **Part 1* *and* *Part 2*

*The upcoming Liteflux LF2XT *

Following photo is provided by juplin who has contributed in post #19 below


juplin said:


>


 


Quoted from LED Cool from post #43


LED Cool said:


> hi everyone!
> LiteFlux ETA on the LF2XT is around early May.
> it will have the following features.
> CREE XRE Q5 LED.
> ...


 
And later followed up by LED Cool



LED Cool said:


> good point on the suggestion of the auto-off function giving warning before commencing shut down. i will pass it on to LiteFlux.
> one more thing i forgot to mentioned, if there is sufficient MCU memory, LiteFlux may add a temporarily override command in the auto-off function.
> lets say for example the auto-off function is enabled and auto-off time period is set at 3 minutes. you turn on your LF2XT and know you will need light for more than 3 minutes. so instead of pressing the button every 3 minutes when the warning is triggered, you just enter a command (e.g. 3xC) and the auto-off function is temporarily disabled. when finished using your LF2XT, click it off and put it in your pocket with your keys etc. if your LF2XT is accidentally turn on in your pocket, the auto-off function will turn off the light after 3 minutes.
> also there will be a change of LED used in the LF2XT. instead of CREE XR-E Q5, it will now use CREE *XP-E *Q3 warm tint (5A OR 5B).
> ...


 


LED Cool said:


> ok. some important updates on the LF2XT which i think you all have been anxiously waiting for.
> 
> 1. confirmed LF2XT will have both Compact user interface (CUI) & Full user interface interface (FUI).
> 2. auto-off function can be turn on/off by user. time period is set at 3 minutes with overriding command. SORRY no *AUTO-ON *FEATURE!!!
> ...


 


juplin said:


> How about these ones


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## djshiner (Jun 11, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

Here is a my black finish LF2XT that arrived today.





Could someone with both the nutural finish LF2XT and a scale weigh it. My light package weighed in at 7grams less at the post office compared to the naturals that were mailed at the same time. I am curious as to why? It came with all the accessories.

My black finish light weighs 21.5g with no battery (head is 7.4g and body is 14.1g). Maybe it was just the box and/or packaging material.

This is a really nice AAA light. I presently have it set to 3 modes - lowest, 20%, and 50%. Auto Off is on. Nice pocket light.


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## KuKu427 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



djshiner said:


> Here is a my black finish LF2XT that arrived today.
> 
> This is a really nice AAA light. I presently have it set to 3 modes - lowest, 20%, and 50%. Auto Off is on. Nice pocket light.


 :thumbsup:


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## DHart (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

My empty natural LF2XT weighs 20.5 grams as per my Dillon digital powder scale. 

13.25 grams (body) 
7.25 grams (head)
20.5 grams (total flashlight - no battery)

Perhaps there are machining tolerances which account for the weight difference... I can't imagine the finish accounting for the 1 gram (4.9%) weight difference... or could it?


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## djshiner (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

Thanks for checking. One gram isn't that far off. I was using a no.1165 digital scale that I got from that Dealer that has eXtreme slow shipping times. Tolerance of the scales comes into too.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

I have some calibrated scales 
" AND NO!! I DON'T DEAL DRUGS" 

So i'll weigh my LF2XT natural when it arrives and report here


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## HighLumens (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



djshiner said:


> Here is a my black finish LF2XT that arrived today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


man, we had the same idea (using the flowchart as a background for the pics)


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



KuKu427 said:


> EDIT: Post deleted!
> The two recesses on the side of the pill are designed to facilitate pill removal.
> 
> 
> ...



.........................................................................

I hope everyone saw this *revised* post about pill removal.

I just happened to run across it days after reading the original.
.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TooManyGizmos said:


> .........................................................................
> 
> I hope everyone saw this *revised* post about pill removal.
> 
> ...


Yeah thanks, I figured already that there would be indents somewhere


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## BabyDoc (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

I just received this email from Gary Lee at LiteFlux in response to my opinion that this bug should be fixed.. I may have been a bit tough on LiteFlux for thinking they did not understanding the significance of the auto-off bug, that it not only shortens the auto-off time, but also makes it impossible to change the number of modes. It seems that they do understand. Hopefully, a solution will be forthcoming.

Gary, below, gives a better explanation of what happens when you attempt to change modes while Auto-OFF function is on. Gary's latter remarks about me becoming a beta tester for LiteFlux makes me believe Gary must be following this forum. I never volunteered that idea to him. Either that or great minds think alike?  



Bill,

Thanks so much for the reply and advice.

I may have misled you a little in my previous email. Let me try it again:

With the Auto-Off function is active, when you attempt to change the number of modes, instead of writing to the mode counter, you actually write to the Auto-Off time counter. So, after you do a save. The mode number will not be changed (because the mode counter wasn't altered), but the Auto-Off time get changed. The auto-off time is no longer 3 min, but becomes:

8 sec * (the mode number you intended to change)

For example, if you attempt to change the number of modes to 3, with the Auto-Off function is ON. after the save. The mode number remains the same (will not be changed), instead, the auto-off time now is no longer 3 min but becomes 24 sec (8 sec * 3)

I agree with you totally, this bug would be a feature if the users could change the Auto-Off time back to 3 min without doing a factory reset.

When I acknowledged this bug, the 1st thing came to mind was that you should be one of the beta testers.  Right now all the testers are in Taiwan, because LF can get them the samples easily, no need transit through the ocean - which will take a least 5 days. I will see if that is feasible in the future.

More later..


Thanks again,

Gary


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

Thanks for the update, BabyDoc. I meant to mention that I noticed my light had no o-ring outside of the window, between glass and tube end. This didn't seem normal, either. When I had the reflector out I gave the window a gentle push, and got no movement.

Geoff


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## StandardBattery (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TooManyGizmos said:


> .........................................................................
> 
> I hope everyone saw this *revised* post about pill removal.
> 
> ...


Thanks for posting, never saw the revised entry because this thread is growing pretty fast _(sales stuff should have been in sales thread)_. Luckily I would never use a PCB like that, and in the original post it did mentioned the indents, but made some comment they were hard to use. Right there it was very clear to me the PCB was in no way intended as an attachment point. It never is really.

I'm growing into my light slowly, still using it in CUI until I figure I have given it enough time, then I'll set my light up the way I have my others. I am quite impressed that the CUI is enough for most non flashaholics, but I'm not sure auto-off should be disabled as factory default. Maybe it's OK I'll have to see how they address it in the manual. Still have not had time for that... the weekend.


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## Bonky (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

hey has anyone done any in-depth comparisons 'tween the LF2xT and the LF2X (and maybe even the LF2 in either of its LED versions) ?

thx


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## juplin (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

Users who enable both the over-discharge protection function and the auto-off function must be aware that after the auto-off function is enabled, the previously enabled over-discharge protection function will not be executed due to insufficient memory space according to the designer.
I personally prefer to use auto-off function indoors before sleeping.
It's not a good idea to use auto-off function outdoors as the alternative to lock-out of switch, since it will have chance to drain your rechargeable battery without the executed over-discharge protection function if the switch tends to be triggered in your pocket or bag over and over again.


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## BabyDoc (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



juplin said:


> Users who enable both the over-discharge protection function and the auto-off function must be aware that after the auto-off function is enabled, the previously enabled over-discharge protection function will not be executed due to insufficient memory space according to the designer.
> I personally prefer to use auto-off function indoors before sleeping.
> It's not a good idea to use auto-off function outdoors as the alternative to lock-out of switch, since it will have chance to drain your rechargeable battery without the executed over-discharge protection function if the switch tends to be triggered in your pocket or bag over and over again.


 
Juplin, this is an important post! Thank you!:twothumbs This problem with the auto-function is more serious than the issue I reported with the mode number setting.

This is the first I have heard about the auto-off function disabling the battery protection. I am glad you are making us aware of this, because I was just beginning to wonder about the battery protection, and why it didn't seem to be working in my light. I was using an Eneloop last night and noticed the light was getting dimmer. I checked the voltage and it was only 0.55v according to the LF2XT. I was wondering why the battery protection, that was supposed to be on, had not shut the light down. My Auto-off has been on, which could explain why the battery protection didn't work.

The auto-off function that was added to the light's programming as a last minute "feature" is turning into a nightmare. I guess it is a good thing this is defaulted to off. Not only does this function, when on, screw up your ability to modify the number of modes and the auto-off time period, but it may actually allow the destruction of the batteries that the battery protection is supposed to be saving. 

It sounds more and more that the Auto-off function should be used only when you don't need battery protection turned on, e.g. Alkaline or Lithium primaries.

When using rechargables, turn off the Auto-off and turn on the battery protection. Then remember to loosen the barrell of the light to lock-out any accidental activation of your light in your pocket. 

Juplin, did the designer reveal to you any other problems? I hope not!


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

I may not use or need the auto off function but! others will,I'm thinking there will be a lot of LF2XT's flying too and from for repairs very soon  that will be a nightmare for sure :shakehead


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## eliteled (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TooManyGizmos said:


> .........................................................................
> 
> I hope everyone saw this *revised* post about pill removal.
> 
> ...














Yes, for the heads-up: If you attempt to remove (or tighten) the pill, for LF2XT, you will need (sharp) needle tweezers, like shown in the photo. And you need to make sure the tweezers are inserted all the way down to the metal part of the module, and *twist the whole module*. If the tweezers are too big for the holes, you may only twist the PCB part, and that will break the leads inside the metal module and damage the light.


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## juplin (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



BabyDoc said:


> Juplin, did the designer reveal to you any other problems? I hope not!


The problem that auto-off fuction will override the overdischarge protection function was discussed in the forum of Taiwan. As I don't remember if this issue has been mensioned by LED cool or other guys before in CPF, I decide to reiterate this issue in my last post. And this should be the only issue that has been announced in Taiwan but not in CPF.

This issue is very well explained by your wording *last minute "feature"*, as the designer might squeeze too many juices from a small orange IMO. :devil:


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

[edit] thanks wapkil, post deleted.


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## wapkil (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



eliteled said:


> http://www.eliteled.com/sitebuilder/images/Needle_Tweezers-600x191.jpg
> 
> http://www.eliteled.com/images/LF2XT-22.jpg
> 
> Oops, how do I post photos?





TITAN1833 said:


> You will first need to upload to either photobucket or imageshack,do you have either?



Well, as long as you are eliteled, I think the eliteled server should also be ok  If you don't mind the additional load by the readers of this thread. You can simply put the image link between the "



" tags (without the quotes) or use the "Insert image" icon above the post edit box.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

wapkil sorry I had no idea I was putting extra load,so post deleted


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## eliteled (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



wapkil said:


> Well, as long as you are eliteled, I think the eliteled server should also be ok  If you don't mind the additional load by the readers of this thread. You can simply put the image link between the "
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Got it!! Thanks so much for the HELP!!


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## eliteled (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TITAN1833 said:


> wapkil sorry I had no idea I was putting extra load,so post deleted



Thank you Titan!!


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## wapkil (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TITAN1833 said:


> wapkil sorry I had no idea I was putting extra load,so post deleted



Although technically it could be seen as hot linking, putting the images in this thread was exactly eliteled intention. So no problem either way, I believe. I just tried to answer eliteled question, not criticize you. I'm sorry if it sounded that way


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 12, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



wapkil said:


> Although technically it could be seen as hot linking, putting the images in this thread was exactly eliteled intension. So no problem either way, I believe. I just tried to answer eliteled question, not criticize you. I'm sorry if it sounded that way


No problem :thumbsup: especially as I still have my shoes :naughty:


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

Got mine today more on that later but! for now man! this thing whines on high,anyone else notice? I ask because I read there was not any noise at any level :thinking:






[edit]I just tried a alkaline and the whine is very much reduced,much more noticeable using 10440.and another thing light flashes on turn on if left awhile anyone?


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## DM51 (Jun 13, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*

This is Part 3 of this thread, continued from Part 2. The most recent posts have been moved across to this new continuation thread.


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## djshiner (Jun 13, 2009)

Yes, I heard a low wine when I first powered up mine too and thought- ohhh darn! Then I remembered post 389 in part 2 of this tread - this light pulses at 1.9khz, with in hearing range. To me the wine is there but not to bad (weak ears maybe).

As for using a 10440; this light is kind of designed for them, but not totally. I say this because Auto Off presently over rides Over Discharge protection which is not good for all 10440s which have no self protection.

I am using mine with AAAs only as I carry it in my pocket with Auto off turned on.


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## matrixshaman (Jun 13, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TITAN1833 said:


> Got mine today more on that later but! for now man! this thing whines on high,anyone else notice? I ask because I read there was not any noise at any level :thinking:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I was doing something with LF2XT where I happened to bring it very close to my ear and notice a whine (on 10440). Unless it was very close I couldn't hear it but with it almost against my ear I did hear the whine and it's louder at the higher brightness level. Since I don't normally carry lights on my ear I don't see it as a problem for myself.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



matrixshaman said:


> Since I don't normally carry lights on my ear I don't see it as a problem for myself.


Oh! ok then I guess I'd better un clip it from my ear ring then


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## djshiner (Jun 13, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TITAN1833 said:


> Oh! ok then I guess I'd better un clip it from my ear ring then


 
This type of wine can be annoying to younger/good ears. I have read this somewhere in the past. So it is good you pointed it out here.

TITAN what did your natural weigh in at?


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



djshiner said:


> This type of wine can be annoying to younger/good ears. I have read this somewhere in the past. So it is good you pointed it out here.
> 
> TITAN what did your natural weigh in at?


Great then I have good old ears:laughing: TBH it's not that bad I have had lots of light that wine a little I call it my second wife haha!


Oh yes! the weight exactly 21.5 grammes with clip as shipped give or take a dram :twothumbs


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## StandardBattery (Jun 13, 2009)

Funny I just noticed the whine last night myself as I was going to sleep. I don't particularly like lights that whine, but as far as they go this one seems not too bad. 

On a more positive note, I was also thinking LiteFlux was sure nice to allow us to simply unscrew the driver/led pill. No Loctite or anything. very nice. Think how much more fun we'd have with our Fenix lights if they stoped using so much Loctite. A light that you can mod, is a great light for a lot longer.

Tonight though I have to play with the monster lights including the Hulk.


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## HighLumens (Jun 13, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



TITAN1833 said:


> I call it my second wife haha!


LOL! I spent a little to understand it


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

Hi guys before I post my report and pictures,does anyone get a short blink when switching on? you have to look into the reflector! BTW I'm using CUI and have it on low.


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## StandardBattery (Jun 13, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Hi guys before I post my report and pictures,does anyone get a short blink when switching on? you have to look into the reflector! BTW I'm using CUI and have it on low.


 
I don't get it, but [Flying Turtle [correction]] was maybe getting something like that before he sent his light back. Look back at his earlier 'blink' before on description.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

StandardBattery said:


> I don't get it, but BabyDoc was maybe getting something like that before he sent his light back. Look back at his earlier 'blink' before on description.


Got it actually that was flying turtle! who has the same thing.mine on low after 20 seconds blinks then stays at the level set I only use CUI hmm! It may end going back if no one else has it ah well.


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## Bonky (Jun 13, 2009)

hmm these lights are seeming kinda glitchy now that more and more reports are coming in.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

Bonky said:


> hmm these lights are seeming kinda glitchy now that more and more reports are coming in.


Actually from what I read that's only three  so not bad if you look at other flashlights :thumbsup:


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## Bonky (Jun 13, 2009)

3 reports out of how many though... a dozen? That's 25% which, in a manufacturing context, is outrageous.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

Bonky said:


> 3 reports out of how many though... a dozen? That's 25% which, in a manufacturing context, is outrageous.


Hold on I think you'll find it's more like hundred or so? bear in mind I don't think the beta testers gave back what they should've :tinfoil: and just in case the


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## Bonky (Jun 13, 2009)

I'm not seeing these hundreds of reviews?


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 13, 2009)

Bonky said:


> I'm not seeing these hundreds of reviews?


No! there's a difference i.e reports or reviews I said reports this can mean any report BTW and anywhere!


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## soli (Jun 13, 2009)

Bonky said:


> I'm not seeing these hundreds of reviews?



As with everything on the internet people who are having problems are far more likely to be vocal than those who have no issues, so it will appear that things are worse than they may necessarily be.

It's an interesting thread which I'll be keeping an eye on, as I'm trying to decide between this and a Fenix LD01 my self at the moment.


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## JLEGG (Jun 13, 2009)

soli said:


> As with everything on the internet people who are having problems are far more likely to be vocal than those who have no issues, so it will appear that things are worse than they may necessarily be.
> 
> It's an interesting thread which I'll be keeping an eye on, as I'm trying to decide between this and a Fenix LD01 my self at the moment.
> 
> get the ld01 unless u like real tan/ creamy tint


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## djshiner (Jun 13, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Hi guys before I post my report and pictures,does anyone get a short blink when switching on? you have to look into the reflector! BTW I'm using CUI and have it on low.


 
I get a very very short blink when turning it on if it has been off for longer then 15 seconds. This is a very fast blink (maybe fast ramp up?), hardly noticable. I think it is just the light 'waking up' out of standby after being off for longer then 15 seconds, but don't know this for sure. I get no blinking after 20 seconds it just stays on.
I am still liking this light. We will see what esle comes up with though.


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 13, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Got it actually that was flying turtle! who has the same thing.mine on low after 20 seconds blinks then stays at the level set I only use CUI hmm! It may end going back if no one else has it ah well.





djshiner said:


> I get a very very short blink when turning it on if it has been off for longer then 15 seconds. This is a very fast blink (maybe fast ramp up?), hardly noticable. I think it is just the light 'waking up' out of standby after being off for longer then 15 seconds, but don't know this for sure. I get no blinking after 20 seconds it just stays on.
> I am still liking this light. We will see what esle comes up with though.



Sorry to hear you guys have the same glitch as mine. I felt kind of picky about sending mine back, since it's a livable problem. Don't feel quite so bad about it now. I think Elite should be getting mine back tomorrow. I wonder what the fix will be? Hope there's not another recall like for the EZAA.

Geoff

Edit: Just got to wondering if these were all natural finish models?


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## StandardBattery (Jun 13, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Got it actually that was flying turtle! who has the same thing.mine on low after 20 seconds blinks then stays at the level set I only use CUI hmm! It may end going back if no one else has it ah well.


 
Sorry bad mistake, I should have checked the memory just is not as good these days.

I'm not having any binking issues. I have a Black one I have not opened yet, I guess I should do it or sell it.

I'm still using CUI as well but was going to move today or tomorrow to FUI. Too bad this last minute 'feature' seems to have caused at least a couple of the issues. Maybe the beta-testers did not get to try that last minute change, I think they may have talked about this after the beta testers had their lights.

I just set my level to min and am now resting it to see if any delay causes a initial blink or ramping. I had it about medium up until now and could not notice any issues.

I think were also a picky bunch which is why I'm using it in CUI mode to see if non-flashaholics would have any real issues.

We might also want to determine if battery type affects any of the issues. I'm using 10440 right now. So I am not so happy to hear of the low-battery detection bug with auto-off. I might have a hard time selling my black on on MP though with the little glitches poping up. I'll probably keep it anyway that was the plan to have one of each. Black is good when you have to be real covert with your life. Unfortunately the clip, tail ring, and switch are not black, so only 90% stealth.


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## KuKu427 (Jun 13, 2009)

Is this the blink you guys are talking about?
Did you get it after toggling tactical signaling on?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRcOl6ADhjg

If not, can you take a video?


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 13, 2009)

Gosh kuku ,

How long was that video ...........

all of about .... 1.327 seconds ?


or was that NANO seconds ?
.


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## KuKu427 (Jun 13, 2009)

How long a video you need to see blinks?
Here's a _slightly_ longer one.:nana:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XVpi-qo1hU


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 13, 2009)

Don't all models do what's in your video when set for momentary/tactical operation ?

A brief flash before constant on.

but I'm not sure that's what they are refering to ?

We need more clarification from users ............ please.
.


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## KuKu427 (Jun 13, 2009)

Yeah, that's the flash of the 2XT transitioning from momentary on to normal on.
We do need more clarification from the users.
That's why I was hoping someone could post a video.


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## StandardBattery (Jun 14, 2009)

I think the blink some might be talking about is a pretty standard driver side effect. I was just able to reproduce it. Many flashlights have it, but maybe this is not the one others are talking about. Starting with factory (no tactical enabled).

Set the Flashlight so it will turn on to low. I used CUI user-level for this.

Then turn on the light and use C-PH to activate high for a couple of seconds. then turn off the light.

Wait just one second and C to turn on (at low), there will be a bit of a flash _(brighter than setting)_ as the electronics adjust to low. If you turn it off-and-on again you won't be able to see the blink (low- to low), although technically in the circuit there might be a little ramping a scope could catch.

If you wait a small amount of time after turning-off from high then the blink at next turn on will probably not be noticeable.

This is like some Fenix models and a slew of others.

I don't think this is what Flying Turtle had, but this may be what some others are seeing. 


The other posibility is everyone is aware of this and this is not what they are talking about.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 14, 2009)

Ok guys I'll try to explain the flash best I can:

I'm using CUI,factory set.
I have it so it comes on at the lowest level,

The flash is lower than the low level,leave the light off for over 20 seconds then look into the reflector,it's not bad but it's there and I don't get this with my L3XT.:thinking:

Also if I do from on 2c ph for max then off the light,turn it back on and the flash is brighter than the previous flash behaviour I mentioned.

I will try to capture it on video but! this is proving harder than I thought


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 14, 2009)

Here's a vid of the flash :thumbsup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnic_y9lawc





[edit] I think you can see it there like I said it's not bad,also I think it is lower than the lowest low.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 14, 2009)

I don't have one yet to compare to yours ........

but that does not seem right.

It will be interesting to see how many others are doing that. It's like a capacitor is charging before it comes up to full brightness ?

Odd


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 14, 2009)

I have to say even with the little flash the LF2XT is still a great little light and I'm pretty sure Liteflux will address any problems we encounter.

We have to bear in mind a lot was packed into this light so it's no surprise little bugs have been found in some lights and it's not just with Liteflux lights either I think that has to be said.

It doesn't seem like many have this low flash so far so fingers crossed :twothumbs


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## Tohuwabohu (Jun 14, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> I'm using CUI,factory set.
> I have it so it comes on at the lowest level,
> 
> The flash is lower than the low level,leave the light off for over 20 seconds then look into the reflector,it's not bad but it's there and I don't get this with my L3XT.:thinking:


I can see this but I didn't have any success trying to capture it with my USB-scope. The 1.9kHz PWM makes is difficult to measure something as slow as this at this low level.



> Also if I do from on 2c ph for max then off the light,turn it back on and the flash is brighter than the previous flash behaviour I mentioned


This was easy to capture:






Zoomed into the point where the light is turned on at low level:




The first pulse is too long.
It is even longer than a normal pulse at max. level.

When the light is turned off long enough I don't see this short flash when it is turned on:





All scope shots were done with a 10440 lithium ion battery in the LF2XT.

My test setup:




LF2XT and photodiode strapped to a ball pen.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 14, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Here's a vid of the flash :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnic_y9lawc
> 
> ...



You've captured it well here. That's exactly what mine was doing. Not something that occurs with the LF3XT. I only tried it with 1.2 and 1.5 volts, but maybe it's less noticeable at higher voltages.

Geoff


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 14, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> You've captured it well here. That's exactly what mine was doing. Not something that occurs with the LF3XT. I only tried it with 1.2 and 1.5 volts, but maybe it's less noticeable at higher voltages.
> 
> Geoff


I only have 1.5 AAA I'm waiting on DX for my charger so I can try 10440 and 1.2 volt rechargeable it has shipped so I could get it this coming week :candle:


----------



## wapkil (Jun 14, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Here's a vid of the flash :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnic_y9lawc
> 
> [edit] I think you can see it there like I said it's not bad,also I think it is lower than the lowest low.



I think that a similar blink is present in the Zebras H501. If you turn them on on high, it looks like the light starts on low and after a fraction of a second switches to high. In Zebras it's visible but not something that would bother me. 

Just my .02lm to confirm that it also happens to other lights.


----------



## StandardBattery (Jun 14, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Here's a vid of the flash :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnic_y9lawc
> 
> ...


 
OK I don't have that, I tested for it on two lights with 10440 and NiMH. That is sort of what I was thinking it would look like based on Flying Turtle's description of it as a blink/pause type of artifact. 

The other high flash I noted, is pretty standard and nothing to worry about, LiteFlux has it very well controlled.


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 14, 2009)

Ok here's the strange thing I found a 10440 with enough juice and this is what I found the low flash on low level has gone, I also tried 1.2 volt rechargeable but the low flash remains hmmm! weird :thinking:




[edit] I will leave it off for ten minutes and check back.


----------



## StandardBattery (Jun 14, 2009)

Very strange, as on my freshly charged NiMH I could not see it. I wonder if it is just a sign of some component tolerances that are pretty tight. I'll test alkaline now.

Update: no problem with Alkaline either.


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 14, 2009)

Right I have left it awhile with 10440 and no low flash now,I'm wondering if it's the quality of battery I used :shrug:

These are the offending batteries,


----------



## jahxman (Jun 14, 2009)

I can't reproduce this low-on flash on my LF2XT with any of my 10440's (AW 340 mAh , Ultrafire 500 and 600 mAh) but I can reproduce it with an Energizer L92, Duracell power Pix Nickel Oxy hydroxide, SoShine NiMH 900mAh, Energizer NiMH 900mAh, and Duracell, Radio Shack and Energizer alkalines.

In other words it happens with all my < 2 volts batteries, and with none of my > 3 volts batteries.

Maybe the boost circuit ramping up?


----------



## StandardBattery (Jun 14, 2009)

Interesting. Probably the components in the boost circuit are a better matched on some of the lights. 

For the record I used AW 10440, Powerizer 1000mAh NiMH (don't know much about these), and regular Energizer AAA alkaline.


----------



## djshiner (Jun 14, 2009)

jahxman said:


> I can't reproduce this low-on flash on my LF2XT with any of my 10440's (340, 500, and 600 mAh) but I can reproduce it with an Energizer L92, Duracell power Pix Nickel Oxy hydroxide, SoShine NiMH 900mAh, Energizer NiMH 900mAh, and Duracell, Radio Shack and Energizer alkalines.
> 
> In other words it happens with all my < 2 volts batteries, and with none of my > 3 volts batteries.
> 
> Maybe the boost circuit ramping up?


 
I was using a L92 when I also reported seeing this almost unnoticable blink when turning on my light after it is off longer then about 15 seconds.

I would like to make it clear to anyone reading here and do not have this light to test for themselves that this is not a big deal, for me anyway. I am not going to send my light back for this. I am still trying to figure what end to poke to turn it on and what end not to look into while I am doing it.


----------



## jahxman (Jun 14, 2009)

djshiner said:


> I would like to make it clear to anyone reading here and do not have this light to test for themselves that this is not a big deal, for me anyway. I am not going to send my light back for this.


 
Yeah me neither, its very slight and I will be running on 10440's anyhow most of the time. Love this light a lot so far!


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 14, 2009)

jahxman said:


> Yeah me neither, its very slight and I will be running on 10440's anyhow most of the time. Love this light a lot so far!


Well I don't think anyone was saying it's that bad,I thought we're discussing why and how that's all and I'll say it again it's still a great little light regardless :thumbsup:


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 14, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



juplin said:


> Users who enable both the over-discharge protection function and the auto-off function *must be aware* that after the auto-off function is enabled, the previously enabled over-discharge protection function will not be executed due to insufficient memory space according to the designer.


The fact that auto-off over rides the over discharge protection is written in the flowchart. Read Note2 (I'm writing it here):

Note2 the priority of Auto-OFF is higher than ODP
ODP will active when Auto-OFF disable or
temporary disable only .

So, at least we were already told about this "problem". I personally think over discharge protection should over ride auto off...


----------



## djshiner (Jun 14, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



HighLumens said:


> The fact that auto-off over rides the over discharge protection is written in the flowchart. Read Note2 (I'm writing it here):
> 
> Note2 the priority of Auto-OFF is higher than ODP
> ODP will active when Auto-OFF disable or
> ...


 
I was thinking the same thing. I look at it as - 'we can have ODP or Auto-Off but not both' at this time. LiteFlux should market this as such in the specs for this light. I expect to be able to have both when a MCU with more memory is available.

I am glad they included Auto Off with this great little pocket Light because that is what I use. Well done LiteFlux!


----------



## juplin (Jun 14, 2009)

Hi, HighLumens, You read the Flowchart very carefully.:thumbsup:
I think LiteFlux should print this important message on the Operation Manual.


----------



## DHart (Jun 14, 2009)

Regarding the reported flash, if I really try hard to detect a flash, I can just do so when I go out of my way to _try_ to find it... but if I hadn't really tried to make the light do it and looked closely to try to find it, I doubt I would even have given it a thought, with my light. During usage I never notice anything odd or bothersome of any kind with my light. It works perfectly for me, doing just what I ask it to do. Turns on, turns off, ramps up, ramps down, quick to minimum, quick to maximum, memorizes user settings. :thumbsup: Perhaps I'm just not being quite as critical as some may be, but in usage, I am _very_ happy with the functioning, output, and quality of light this little bugger offers! Or my sample is better than some others, perhaps? :shrug:


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 14, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



HighLumens said:


> Note2 the priority of Auto-OFF is higher than ODP
> ODP will active when Auto-OFF disable or
> temporary disable only .
> 
> So, at least we were already told about this "problem". I personally think over discharge protection should over ride auto off...


 
I actually found that ODP, if first turned on but then disabled by AUTO_OFF being then turned on, WILL NOT be reactivated simply by turning off the AUTO-OFF. After turning off the AUTO-OFF, you must also turn off and back on, the ODP.

Don't you think the flowchart should also warn you that the number of modes can not be changed while the Auto-OFF function is turned on, and that any attempt to do so will not only fail to change the number of modes, but also shorten the Auto-OFF from 3 min to 8 to 40 seconds? A factory reset is the only way to return the light's Auto-off to 3 minutes.

I agree with you that the discharge protection should over-ride the AUTO-OFF, since permanent damage can be done to rechargables that are over discharged.


----------



## djshiner (Jun 14, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



BabyDoc said:


> I actually found that ODP, if first turned on but then disabled by AUTO_OFF being then turned on, WILL NOT be reactivated simply by turning off the AUTO-OFF. After turning off the AUTO-OFF, you must also turn off and back on, the ODP.
> 
> Don't you think the flowchart should also warn you that the number of modes can not be changed while the Auto-OFF function is turned on, and that any attempt to do so will not only fail to change the number of modes, but also shorten the Auto-OFF from 3 min to 8 to 40 seconds? A factory reset is the only way to return the light's Auto-off to 3 minutes.
> 
> I agree with you that the discharge protection should over-ride the AUTO-OFF, since permanent damage can be done to rechargables that are over discharged.


 
LiteFlux needed to document these issues/features in their manual and specs for this light and not just the flow chart from the beginning, if they were known to them.

As to what overrides what; they might have just offered a choise of ODP or Auto-Off or neither in the user interface and have nothing overriden. I say 'might have', because we do not know if there was even enough code space for that.

From what I know now if I want to use 10440s I will have ODP on and not carry it in my pocket or any place it can get turned on by accident if that concerns me. If I want to carry it in my pocket I will have Auto-Off on and run on AAAs. At the same time insuring nothing is overriden.

Really nothing has changed for me personally except now I have the choise of Auto-Off also. LiteFlux rules!


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 15, 2009)

juplin said:


> Hi, HighLumens, You read the Flowchart very carefully.:thumbsup:





juplin said:


> I think LiteFlux should print this important message on the Operation Manual.


+1


BabyDoc said:


> I actually found that ODP, if first turned on but then disabled by AUTO_OFF being then turned on, *WILL NOT be reactivated simply by turning off the AUTO-OFF. After turning off the AUTO-OFF, you must also turn off and back on, the ODP.*


That's annoying, I was hoping the ODP would turn back on by itself when auto-off had been disabled...


BabyDoc said:


> I agree with you that the discharge protection should over-ride the AUTO-OFF, since *permanent damage can be done to rechargables that are over discharged*.


+1. Why would someone prefer not to waste their battery (using the auto-off)when they destroy it by overdischarging:shrug:?



djshiner said:


> ...LiteFlux rules!


:thumbsup:


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 15, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



djshiner said:


> From what I know now if I want to use 10440s I will have ODP on and not carry it in my pocket or any place it can get turned on by accident if that concerns me. If I want to carry it in my pocket I will have Auto-Off on and run on AAAs. At the same time insuring nothing is overriden.
> 
> Really nothing has changed for me personally except now I have the choise of Auto-Off also. LiteFlux rules!


 
Actually, the safest and easiest thing to do when using rechargables is to loosen the barrel of the light. The light will be locked out and not accidentally turn on in your pocket. (Of course, turn off the AUTO-OFF and turn on the Over Discharge battery protection, too, to protect those valuable rechargables when you do use the light). 

Use Auto-off only with primaries, which don't need the battery protection and can be run down completely when you choose to use the light. In this case, you wouldn't need to lockout the light.


----------



## DHart (Jun 15, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



BabyDoc said:


> Actually, the safest and easiest thing to do when using rechargables is to loosen the barrel of the light. The light will be locked out and not accidentally turn on in your pocket. (Of course, turn off the AUTO-OFF and turn on the Over Discharge battery protection, too, to protect those valuable rechargables).
> 
> Use Auto-off only with primaries, which don't need the battery protection and can be run down completely when you choose to use the light. In this case, you wouldn't need to lockout the light.



Doc... a very sound approach!


----------



## djshiner (Jun 15, 2009)

*Re: Liteflux LF2XT (Part 2)*



BabyDoc said:


> Actually, the safest and easiest thing to do when using rechargables is to loosen the barrel of the light. The light will be locked out and not accidentally turn on in your pocket. (Of course, turn off the AUTO-OFF and turn on the Over Discharge battery protection, too, to protect those valuable rechargables).
> 
> Use Auto-off only with primaries, which don't need the battery protection and can be run down completely when you choose to use the light. In this case, you wouldn't need to lockout the light.


 
Loosening the barrel for this light with primaries in it may still be the way to go to disable it. Say this light had a primary that could give a 60 minute run time and the 3 minute Auto Off was enabled. If it was accidently triggered on 20 times over a time period; that would equal one dead and wasted primary.
I am giving Auto Off a try over the next while to see if it is practical.


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 15, 2009)

I do agree with you that locking out the light may be the safest thing to do in ALL cases, whether a rechargable or a primary, but it is nice to have the AUTO-OFF available with a primary to POSSIBLY save that battery if you forgot to loosen the barrel. Furthermore, having the light go on and off in your pocket frequently enough to completely deplete the primary, while theoretically possible, IMO isn't very likely going to happen. I have carried my LF3XT in my pocket for months and have never accidentally activated it, although I have heard stories here of that happening on occasion to others.


----------



## djshiner (Jun 15, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> I do agree with you that locking out the light may be the safest thing to do in ALL cases, whether a rechargable or a primary, but it is nice to have the AUTO-OFF available with a primary to POSSIBLY save that battery if you forgot to loosen the barrel. Furthermore, having the light go on and off in your pocket frequently enough to completely deplete the primary, while theoretically possible, IMO isn't very likely going to happen. I have carried my LF3XT in my pocket for months and have never accidentally activated it, although I have heard stories here of that happening on occasion to others.


 
:thumbsup: I agree.


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## spencer (Jun 15, 2009)

I would agree that the best way to lock out a light is to loosen the head. I also think its not the smartest to be able to have only one of Auto-off and over discharge protection. Both are needed IMO.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 16, 2009)

djshiner said:


> :thumbsup: I agree.


I also agree,just try activating either light on something like your leg it's near impossible to get it to come on,

so unless you carry a loose finger in your pocket along with your light,then I think it's safe to say accidental activation will be rare :twothumbs


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## KuKu427 (Jun 16, 2009)

lovecpf


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 16, 2009)

Should be getting mine back in a few days. EliteLED got it back and checked it yesterday. Great service as usual. Said the pill was fine, and I'd be getting it back good as new. Still have my fingers crossed, but even if it's the same as before I'll probably be happy. Maybe this is light that prefers more voltage than NiMHs or alkaline AAs.

Geoff


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 16, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> lovecpf


Very nice,now I will have to get me a black one in the future :thumbsup:


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## hogger (Jun 16, 2009)

Just how flimsey is the pocket clip on this light?


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 16, 2009)

hogger said:


> Just how flimsey is the pocket clip on this light?


I said somewhere it seems flimsy to me but I'm not really a clip person,let me see if I can get pictures of it that way you can make your own mind up,hold on pics coming :twothumbs





[edit]Ok here's the clip it is 1mm in dia and to me feels very loose when attached to jeans or shirt pocket it feels not very secure IMO maybe it would have been better if it was made of strip spring steel and not wire.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 16, 2009)

spencer said:


> I would agree that the best way to lock out a light is to loosen the head. IMO.


Or have it set to come on at lowest level


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 16, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Or have it set to come on at lowest level


I'll do both things: loosen the head (to prevent wasting batteries without using the auto-off) and set it to come on at the lowest level, because I'll be using it at that level the most of the times



KuKu427 said:


> lovecpf


Nice! Has it been difficult to do that? If not, could you create another gif with a natural one ?


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 16, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> I said somewhere it seems flimsy to me but I'm not really a clip person,let me see if I can get pictures of it that way you can make your own mind up,hold on pics coming :twothumbs
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

I really like the clip. While I agree that the clip doesn't feel very tight, considering the light weight of the LF2XT, the clip is more than adequate to secure your light without tearing up your clothes. Furthermore, any solid clip would just add weight to the light.


----------



## gunga (Jun 16, 2009)

Actually I agree with Titan, I have been pretty unhappy with wire clips (LF2XT, Lumapower Avenger/INcendio/Connexion) and much prefer a stronger clip, like a D10. I've bent many a flimsy wire clip, and I'm not even a clip person!

The Dereelight C2H though has a very firm wire clip!


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 16, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> I really like the clip. While I agree that the clip doesn't feel very tight, considering the light weight of the LF2XT, the clip is more than adequate to secure your light without tearing up your clothes. Furthermore, any solid clip would just add weight to the light.


Not if it's Ti :nana: J/K It's not bad but could be better IMO



gunga said:


> Actually I agree with Titan, I have been pretty unhappy with wire clips (LF2XT, Lumapower Avenger/INcendio/Connexion) and much prefer a stronger clip, like a D10. I've bent many a flimsy wire clip, and I'm not even a clip person!
> 
> The Dereelight C2H though has a very firm wire clip!


Yeah it's the old YMMV I'm also not a clip person as I've said :thumbsup:


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 16, 2009)

BabyDoc just for instance this clip from a Novatac adds just 4 grammes I'll see if I can manipulate it to fit some how :thinking:









[edit]BTW the light is on during a low run time test on a cheap Kodak zinc chloride 1.5 volt battery,so far 7 hrs


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 16, 2009)

While I DO like the clip on the D10 and the EX10, I think a clip like that might be bit overkill, weight-wise, for a smaller light like the LF2XT. The neat thing about the LF2xt is the way the clip is removable and easily replaced with the key ring attachment. 

BTW, speaking about keychains, how many of you are actually using your light on your keychain? (I AM using my natural LF2xt on my keychain, so the clip is a non-issue for me with that light). I am rather suprised that the LF2XT, although a bit longer than the LOD it replaced, doesn't feel or look too big to be on my keychain. It feels lighter than the LOD, and it is about the same length as my car keys, the longest keys on my ring.


----------



## hogger (Jun 16, 2009)

yea 1mm not much more than a paper clip. Well at least it has one plus an alternate atrtachment method. 
+1 Liteflux


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## DHart (Jun 16, 2009)

The clip for the LD01 is a solid stainless spring clip (not wire) that fits well on the LF2XT and is much more secure feeling than the flimsy-feeling wire clip that comes with the LF2XT. The weight difference is nothing that would even be noticed. Personally, I don't tend to use clips, but for those that do... this might be a possible option which is a nice improvement over the stock clip.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 16, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> Nice! Has it been difficult to do that? If not, could you create another gif with a natural one ?


That one took hours! I should be able to do a better one when I get some time.



BabyDoc said:


> BTW, speaking about keychains, how many of you are actually using your light on your keychain?


Just switched from clip carry to keychain carry a few days ago. No scratches so far!


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 16, 2009)

hogger said:


> yea 1mm not much more than a paper clip. Well at least it has one plus an alternate atrtachment method.
> +1 Liteflux


 That clip is actually tougher than it looks. I hooked the clip by accident with my backpack strap by accident once while the light was in a coin pocket. Bent it about 20 degrees away from the body.

I took the clip off and bent it back and it's good as new.


----------



## juplin (Jun 17, 2009)

My current setup of the clip along with the lanyard (or chain) 





The other AAA light in the right is the clue where my clip comes from. 

The wrap-around clip is stronger and more elegant than the original clip IMO. It's also nice to have both the clip and the lanyard installed at the same time. :laughing:


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 17, 2009)

How can I tell if ODP is on? :shrug:


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## juplin (Jun 17, 2009)

After 4C + PH are pressed, 2 fast blinks indicate that the ODP is enabled, while 1 slow blink indicates that the ODP is disabled.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 17, 2009)

juplin said:


> After 4C + PH are pressed, 2 fast blinks indicate that the ODP is enabled, while 1 slow blink indicates that the ODP is disabled.


Got it thank you :twothumbs


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 17, 2009)

Did someone ask about nano charger?


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## genotypic (Jun 17, 2009)

I just received my LF2XT yesterday and I absolutely love the tint on mine..

The beam is flawless and the tint made me smile 

It's almost pure white with a tiny hint of warmth in it, and it makes my other lights look like colored LEDs.

He're a quick pic to compare it to my other lights:

L-R: Solarforce L2 with R2 drop in - should be a WC, LF5XT with an R2 WH, the LF2XT Q4 neutral, and Sabrewolf's 18650 edc with a 5A MC-E. Sunlight WB.





The lights are all at maximum brightness, running on Li-ions.

In reality, the WC and 5A tints are slightly less saturated than how they appear in the pics..

I don't have my LF2X anymore, but I would say that the difference in brightness is not as significant as I thought...120 lumens is plenty for keychain duty anyway.


----------



## wingnutLP (Jun 17, 2009)

Just to make sure I understand this correctly, if I leave auto off turned off as it comes from the factory then all other functions work 100%?

If so I can:

- Set the light to come on lowest by turning the memory off
- Reduce the number of modes to 3 Ultra low, low and 50% with press and hold for max in bursts
- Turn on over discharge for use with lithium rechargeable's

Then I will have the perfect EDC keychain light 

It would be nice to have the auto off also so I don't have to lock the light out by loosening the head but I can live without it...


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 17, 2009)

15 Euros for a Nano???  I have a slightly used one for sale at that price! LOL


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 17, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> 15 Euros for a Nano???  I have a slightly used one for sale at that price! LOL


Yes the price for rarity


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## HighLumens (Jun 17, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> That one took hours! I should be able to do a better one when I get some time.
> 
> 
> Just switched from clip carry to keychain carry a few days ago. No scratches so far!


I didn't know it takes so much time!

I hope it will never scratch!


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 17, 2009)

Ok something weird I just checked the voltage out on my DX SKU 14885 10440 charger hmmm 8.8 volts  this can't be healthy can it?


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 17, 2009)

I'm thinking of having mine DLC'ed


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 17, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> I'm thinking of having mine DLC'ed


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 17, 2009)

genotypic said:


> I just received my LF2XT yesterday and I absolutely love the tint on mine..
> 
> The beam is flawless and the tint made me smile
> 
> ...


 beautiful pic! thanks! it's very useful.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 17, 2009)

genotypic said:


>


Sweeeeeeet!:thumbsup:


----------



## jahxman (Jun 17, 2009)

wingnutLP said:


> Just to make sure I understand this correctly, if I leave auto off turned off as it comes from the factory then all other functions work 100%?
> 
> If so I can:
> 
> ...


 
Yes, you understand correctly - you can have all that exactly using the FUI. Plus a click and press and hold will get you random strobe for giggles, without changing anything else in your settings.

I'm loving this light!


----------



## wapkil (Jun 17, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Ok something weird I just checked the voltage out on my DX SKU 14885 10440 charger hmmm 8.8 volts  this can't be healthy can it?



OC voltage? This is an universal charger capable of charging 9V NiMH batteries, among others. As long as it doesn't try to charge Li-Ions with that voltage I wouldn't worry. BTW, recently I made some additional measurements of this charger - will post about them soon.


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 17, 2009)

wapkil said:


> OC voltage? This is an universal charger capable of charging 9V NiMH batteries, among others. As long as it doesn't try to charge Li-Ions with that voltage I wouldn't worry. BTW, recently I made some additional measurements of this charger - will post about them soon.


 thanks,Yeah since that post I've figured it out,under load with a 10440 it's 4.2 volts and off the charger the voltage is 4.1 volt at the battery


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 17, 2009)

I thought the beam was much yellower than these latest pic's by genotypic.

Everyone keeps relating it to incandescent.


----------



## genotypic (Jun 17, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> I thought the beam was much yellower than these latest pic's by genotypic.
> 
> Everyone keeps relating it to incandescent.



Mine is hardly incan like..

I picked light 24 from KuKu427's beamshot page which has a slightly less yellow tint.

I'll see if i can get some pics of actual objects rather than a white paper shot.


----------



## cryhavok (Jun 17, 2009)

The tint picture accurately describes my LFX2T's tint as well. No yellow incandescent...just a nice soft white.


----------



## Thujone (Jun 17, 2009)

The latest pics look like he set the white balance to the lf2xt. Remember it's all relative.


----------



## DM51 (Jun 17, 2009)

Let's keep this thread for discussions about the light itself. There's a thread here about charging 10440 Li-Ion cells.


----------



## xcnick (Jun 17, 2009)

DM51 said:


> Let's keep this thread for discussions about the light itself. There's a thread here about charging 10440 Li-Ion cells.



At the risk of posting in the wrong place I want to ask about the right 10440 for the light. The thread mentioned above asks, but there is no answer, about the 10440 from light hound which may not have the button raised high enough. I too have this battery and wonder if it will work in this light.


----------



## DM51 (Jun 17, 2009)

OK, that is a fair one to cover here, but let's see if we can do it without getting too bogged down in the many different brands that may be available. I think I recall Titan mentioning somewhere above that the AW 10440 cell worked fine in his. That one is a recommended brand, available direct from AW and also AFAIK from Lighthound.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 17, 2009)

Thanks DM51 .........

The AW might be the best choice ........

And it's also back in stock NOW at LightHound.


Now back on topic - and I won't take it off topic any more.


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## jahxman (Jun 17, 2009)

xcnick said:


> At the risk of posting in the wrong place I want to ask about the right 10440 for the light. The thread mentioned above asks, but there is no answer, about the 10440 from light hound which may not have the button raised high enough. I too have this battery and wonder if it will work in this light.


 
I have used both the AW 10440s and Ultrafire 10440s with no problems in this light, they both work well.


----------



## hogger (Jun 17, 2009)

I likey that clip. Dont know what the blue light is tho?


----------



## genotypic (Jun 17, 2009)

genotypic said:


> I just received my LF2XT yesterday and I absolutely love the tint on mine..
> 
> The beam is flawless and the tint made me smile
> 
> ...




Here are more tint comparision pics.. Sorry I couldn't find anything more glamorous to photograph  

The LF2XT's tint is neutral and looks like a 3B/3C tint to me according to this chart.






The lights are diffused by simply placing it behind a sheet of A4 paper. Exposure is set to auto, and white balance is 5500K, which is the colour temperature of afternoon sunlight.

I think Liteflux got it right as far as tints are concerned..no reddish hue from the 5As, and a definite improvement from the cool whites.


----------



## matrixshaman (Jun 17, 2009)

deleted as it was related to Titan1833's charging question - PM me is you have any concerns on that unit.


----------



## matrixshaman (Jun 17, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> I thought the beam was much yellower than these latest pic's by genotypic.
> 
> Everyone keeps relating it to incandescent.



I might have posted something to that effect first day but it really is NOT close to incandescent - just that it's not your typical cool white LED - it's warmer but after comparing to incan it's just not even close IMO.


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## matrixshaman (Jun 17, 2009)

genotypic said:


> Here are more tint comparision pics.. Sorry I couldn't find anything more glamorous to photograph
> 
> The LF2XT's tint is neutral and looks like a 3B/3C tint to me according to this chart.
> 
> ...



Very nice comparison! This shows very well the really nice tint this LED has.


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## KuKu427 (Jun 17, 2009)

Nice pic genotypic :thumbsup:

Just a reminder to all who are interested on running the 2XT on Li Ions
Make sure you get button-top cells when ordering 10440s for the 2XT.
They're the ones on the bottom.


----------



## wingnutLP (Jun 18, 2009)

I can't seem to reduce the number of modes on mine 

I have checked that auto off is not turned on by leaving the light turned on for more than 5 minutes. Auto off is definitely turned off. I have never tried to turn it on so as far as I know if it comes with this feature turned off then it has never been turned on.

If I go into the mode number select and set it down to 3 modes then 3C + PH to save this then the light saves it and will cycle through just three modes OK until the light is turned off. As soon as you turn the light off when you turn it on again it goes back to 5 modes 

Does anyone else have this problem?

Alex



EDIT: A factory reset has sorted it out. At some point maybe I accidentally turned the auto off feature on and that may have screwed up the mode number setting.

Aside from the couple of tiny bugs this light is simply amazing  running on 10440's the low is beautifully low, 50% is as much light as you could need most of the time and 100% gives short bursts of incredibly bright light. I love it


----------



## matrixshaman (Jun 18, 2009)

wingnutLP said:


> I can't seem to reduce the number of modes on mine
> 
> I have checked that auto off is not turned on by leaving the light turned on for more than 5 minutes. Auto off is definitely turned off. I have never tried to turn it on so as far as I know if it comes with this feature turned off then it has never been turned on.
> 
> ...


Do you have the flowchart for this light? I haven't had enough time to play with it but I'll bet you are missing something in the save procedure which IIRC was somewhat tricky with the LF3XT and may also be the 2XT. BabyDoc or some others here can probably help you better with that. In the meantime I'd look carefully to make sure you are completely exiting out of the options menu and all menus with 'saving' in mind.

I guess I missed that you fixed the problem in your edit before responding. Read the whole post matrix 

Glad you are enjoying this cool light!


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 18, 2009)

wingnutLP said:


> I can't seem to reduce the number of modes on mine
> 
> I have checked that auto off is not turned on by leaving the light turned on for more than 5 minutes. Auto off is definitely turned off. I have never tried to turn it on so as far as I know if it comes with this feature turned off then it has never been turned on.
> 
> ...


 

Hey, Wingnut, you're getting the hang of things just fine. As I was reading your problem, I knew that it had to be something with the Auto-off. Even before you did the factory reset, I knew that was going to fix it! Yes, there are a few glitches in this light, but the more you experiment with it, you realize that in spite of the glitches, this is one of the best lights around. It is certainly the most versatile AAA light for the money!


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## wingnutLP (Jun 18, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> this is one of the best lights around. It is certainly the most versatile AAA light for the money!



When they announced an AAA version of the LF3XT I knew we were on to a winner. Now all we need is LED technology and optics to improve to the point we can throw out all of our other lights and have a single AAA light for the whole lot!

Give it 10 years and we will be there


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 18, 2009)

wingnutLP said:


> When they announced an AAA version of the LF3XT I knew we were on to a winner. Now all we need is LED technology and optics to improve to the point we can throw out all of our other lights and have a single AAA light for the whole lot!
> 
> Give it 10 years and we will be there



My feelings/hopes exactly. As much as I like the LF3XT this one is what I've really been waiting for.

Geoff


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## BabyDoc (Jun 18, 2009)

wingnutLP said:


> When they announced an AAA version of the LF3XT I knew we were on to a winner. Now all we need is LED technology and optics to improve to the point we can throw out all of our other lights and have a single AAA light for the whole lot!
> 
> Give it 10 years and we will be there


 
Its kind of exciting how quickly the LF2XT has taken off. I recall that with the LF3XT there was a lukewarm acceptance of this light, which I couldn't understand. At the time, the EX10 and D10 were getting most of the attention and it took a long time for the LF3XT to take off. But finally, it did and people became as enthusiastic, as I was from the very beginning with the LF3xt. Here we are already on Part 3 of the LF2XT thread with almost everyone loving their light, even to the point of overlooking some of its glitches. But isn't that what true love is all about?


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## kaichu dento (Jun 18, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> Its kind of exciting how quickly the LF2XT has taken off. I recall that with the LF3XT there was a lukewarm acceptance of this light, which I couldn't understand. At the time, the EX10 and D10 were getting most of the attention and it took a long time for the LF3XT to take off. But finally, it did and people became as enthusiastic, as I was from the very beginning with the LF3xt. Here we are already on Part 3 of the LF2XT thread with almost everyone loving their light, even to the point of overlooking some of its glitches. But isn't that what true love is all about?


One of the main reasons the LF3XT had a hard time gaining strong acceptance was the incredible range of excellent CR123 lights already out there. The LF2XT has basically dropped out of nowhere into a vacuum. 

For the past couple years people wanting a AAA light with a tail switch that had multiple settings they've been putting together L0D/Micro packages but the LF2XT is the most gracefully executed package for AAA to come to the light of day and will force everyone else into reassessing their views of what a AAA light can do.

I just got my LF2XT's yesterday and am already enamored with it, but I can't wait for LiteFlux to perfect the clip, offer a true low-low, and get us some warm tints. (I for one would really love to see more of a mid-range color like the TiCN or olive available too!) :wave:


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## HighLumens (Jun 18, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> offer a true low-low


Do you think the lowest setting isn't low enough?


----------



## gunga (Jun 18, 2009)

I've had a few glitches when changing batteries wit the LF2XT, light not truning on, or inconsistent, but I'm pretty sure it has to do with lube getting on the contact signal path. THis light is a bit sensitive to that.

The light itself feels a little fragile and light to me, but I haven't seen any reports of failure yet.

Indeed, this is a very nice light with great tint. Well done.

I am getting a Lumapower Avenger GX too, so I am lookking forward to seeing how they compare.


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 18, 2009)

Got mine back from a return trip to California. As I half expected, nothing appeared to be done. Same cold start glitch. I guess it's a non-issue. Same rattle from the reflector, which I fixed. Still, happy to have it back. At least it didn't get lost in the mail.

Now to figure out a good way to attach a small lanyard, while keeping the clip.

Geoff


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 18, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Got mine back from a return trip to California. As I half expected, nothing appeared to be done. Same cold start glitch. I guess it's a non-issue. Same rattle from the reflector, which I fixed. Still, happy to have it back. At least it didn't get lost in the mail.
> 
> Now to figure out a good way to attach a small lanyard, while keeping the clip.
> 
> Geoff


Glad you got it back and sorry the cold start is still present BTW does it happen with 10440 ?:thinking:


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## djshiner (Jun 18, 2009)

gunga said:


> I've had a few glitches when changing batteries wit the LF2XT, light not truning on, or inconsistent, but I'm pretty sure it has to do with lube getting on the contact signal path. THis light is a bit sensitive to that.


 
Yup. Having the same experience. Sometimes have to clean twice to get it to turn on again after changing the battery. Anyone else?

Tried a 10440 in it; it is brighter of course but how bright do I need it?


----------



## kaichu dento (Jun 18, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> Do you think the lowest setting isn't low enough?


It's a nice low setting for general city life but I don't live in the city and that level is blindingly bright for someone who likes to move around in the dark and use the light only when absolutely necessary. 

For anyone who doesn't understand the desire that many of us have for a sub-1 lumen low, go to a place that is dark to the level that you have a hard time seeing well, but can still walk around, then shine the low level of this light at your hand as if you were trying to get out a sliver, then turn it off again and see how long it takes for your eyes to recover.

The only light that goes as low as I'd like is my Titan and I have hopes of seeing more options in the near future. For those of you who don't care for anything under 10 or 5 or 2 lumens it would be nice if it's an accessible feature which does not get in the way.


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## DHart (Jun 18, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Got mine back from a return trip to California. As I half expected, nothing appeared to be done. Same cold start glitch. I guess it's a non-issue. Same rattle from the reflector, which I fixed. Still, happy to have it back. At least it didn't get lost in the mail.
> 
> Now to figure out a good way to attach a small lanyard, while keeping the clip.
> 
> Geoff



Geoff... I know you missed it and I'm glad you have it back. These are just such *cool* little lights!


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## DHart (Jun 18, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> It's a nice low setting for general city life but I don't live in the city and that level is blindingly bright for someone who likes to move around in the dark and use the light only when absolutely necessary.
> 
> For anyone who doesn't understand the desire that many of us have for a sub-1 lumen low, go to a place that is dark to the level that you have a hard time seeing well, but can still walk around, then shine the low level of this light at your hand as if you were trying to get out a sliver, then turn it off again and see how long it takes for your eyes to recover.
> 
> The only light that goes as low as I'd like is my Titan and I have hopes of seeing more options in the near future. For those of you who don't care for anything under 10 or 5 or 2 lumens it would be nice if it's an accessible feature which does not get in the way.



Agree... the low of the LF2XT could be a fair bit lower yet. It's decently low, but I would prefer it going to half of what it's current low is right now. In a dark bedroom with night adapted eyes, you can get by with a lot less than the LF2XT on it's lowest setting.


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## HighLumens (Jun 18, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> It's a nice low setting for general city life but I don't live in the city and that level is blindingly bright for someone who likes to move around in the dark and use the light only when absolutely necessary.
> 
> For anyone who doesn't understand the desire that many of us have for a sub-1 lumen low, go to a place that is dark to the level that you have a hard time seeing well, but can still walk around, then shine the low level of this light at your hand as if you were trying to get out a sliver, then turn it off again and see how long it takes for your eyes to recover.
> 
> The only light that goes as low as I'd like is my Titan and I have hopes of seeing more options in the near future. For those of you who don't care for anything under 10 or 5 or 2 lumens it would be nice if it's an accessible feature which does not get in the way.





DHart said:


> Agree... the low of the LF2XT could be a fair bit lower yet. It's decently low, but I would prefer it going to half of what it's current low is right now. In a dark bedroom with night adapted eyes, you can get by with a lot less than the LF2XT on it's lowest setting.


Very bad news:mecry:... I hope it will be low enough for me, i'm really a low level guy!


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 18, 2009)

It's just low as the LF3XT, if not a wee bit lower. Lower than a Proton Pro.

Geoff


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## kaichu dento (Jun 18, 2009)

DHart said:


> Agree... the low of the LF2XT could be a fair bit lower yet. It's decently low, but I would prefer it going to half of what it's current low is right now. In a dark bedroom with night adapted eyes, you can get by with a lot less than the LF2XT on it's lowest setting.


I was truly hoping for less output on low, but comparing it to my L0D I'm still pretty happy. I'm now hoping that if they offer a warm tint, that it's inherent lower output will make the low come down a bit. Yes, I'll trade a loss of high output to gain a lower low. :thumbsup:


HighLumens said:


> Very bad news:mecry:... I hope it will be low enough for me, i'm really a low level guy!


I'm looking forward to your opinion, but even if it isn't as low as you'd like, I think you're still going to love the LF2XT.


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## gunga (Jun 18, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Now to figure out a good way to attach a small lanyard, while keeping the clip.


 

Take a look at my Connexion review to see how to attach a lanyard to wire clips, post #5.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2802945&postcount=5


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## vermeire (Jun 18, 2009)

Ok, mine came yesterday. Got to play with it for about an hour. Because of my schedule I'm going to bed before it gets dark.

My initial impression was; "Wow, this thing is tiny." It's smaller than I thought it would be. Actually wondering if I'd consider a 2AAA tube/version if it is ever available. The low is lower than my D20 (only other light with significant adjustability). Obviously the high is lower but all I have to work with right now are alkalines. I guess I'm going to have to get a charger and some 10440s. (I suppose I should pick up some NiMHs as well for general purposes.) I can see one of the DX chargers in the near future.

When I first heard about the light I thought I'd use the CUI. In the short time I've had the light I've changed my mind. The PH for high in the FUI is a great feature and will probably be my most used. The C + PH for stobe won't get used very much if at all, but it's nice to have direct access to something as such. Right now I've got 3 modes: lowest, ~10%, ~35%. I'll probably fine tune those once I get some rechargables.

One thing that I don't like about the light is the way momentary (tactical) functions on the light. I don't know how to make it better, but it doesn't seem very useful to me. I guess I'm just used to a forward clicky....

I did make the mistake of trying to program modes after I had forgotten I had turned Auto-off on. That was a little frustrating to have to start all over.

Overall I'm extremely happy with the 2XT. I just need to get back to 2nd shift so I'm staying up late enough to use it. Looking forward to using it with rechargeables too.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 18, 2009)

Quote from Vermeire , previous post :
"One thing that I don't like about the light is the way momentary (tactical) functions on the light. I don't know how to make it better, but it doesn't seem very useful to me. I guess I'm just used to a forward clicky...."
.........................................................................

I don't use mine for tailstanding and when I have it set for tacticle/momentary I like the button to protrude more than it currently does ..... so my sollution was this :

Go to a home improvement section - look for what are called "bumpers" that you put on kitchen cabinet doors to keep them from slamming. Look for the self-adhesive round clear ones that are 1/16" thick X 1/2" round. You may need to trim the outer edges just a bit. Clean your LF2XT button with alchohol , then apply the bumper button.

I like the feel of it better when I'm using it in momentary mode. Reminds me more of a common tacticle button. You may even like it for all-round-use.

Just thought I'd share that ............

TMG:nana:


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## Kevo (Jun 18, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Now to figure out a good way to attach a small lanyard, while keeping the clip.
> 
> Geoff



Just use a dremel or similar tool to notch out some holes opposite the ones for the clip. Then trim the wires so they only take half the circumference of the light. Now you can use both the clip and the wire. I do believe I invented the idea, and I wonder why LiteFlux hasn't sent me a free LF2XT???

Keychain Mod


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 18, 2009)

Kevo ........ thats just what I intended to do.



And I don't even have the light yet.

.

Want to see if *military dogtag* ball-chain will go *THRU* it. in one side - out the other.

.


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 18, 2009)

gunga said:


> Take a look at my Connexion review to see how to attach a lanyard to wire clips, post #5.
> 
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2802945&postcount=5



Thanks for the tip, gunga. I might just put a small split ring on the clip and attach one of my short rawhide lanyards to it.

Geoff


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 18, 2009)

Kevo said:


> Just use a dremel or similar tool to notch out some holes opposite the ones for the clip. Then trim the wires so they only take half the circumference of the light. Now you can use both the clip and the wire. I do believe I invented the idea, and I wonder why LiteFlux hasn't sent me a free LF2XT???
> 
> Keychain Mod



Slick solution Kevo. I remember seeing that when you first posted it. I'm afraid my dremel driving is probably too erratic to attempt this.

Geoff


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## tpchan (Jun 18, 2009)

For the low-low lovers, I don't know if its been mentioned yet, but at least for me, my LF2XT did NOT come from the factory set for lowest low. From factory default, I went into the low-low setting in the FUI, then into the Setting menu (3C+PH) and if you do the brightness report (5C) you will get 1%, but the good part is that I was able to then do decrease brightness (2C), and then try the brightness report again (5C) and now my LF2XT double blinks ZERO ZERO. Success! The low-low now gives a brightness report of ZERO %.  Then do save your changes with 3C+PH.

Try it and see, YMMV! This is the REAL lowest-low on the LF2XT and it is noticeably lower than the factory default 1%.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 18, 2009)

tpchan , that was a very good point ..... some might not be aware

.


----------



## Sir Lightalot (Jun 18, 2009)

I for one think the low is a bit too low... I usually need to ramp it up a tiny bit
in order for it to be useful, and I live in the country. 

Yes, good point about the *FUI*, It is set on *1% default* *not 0%* to all you complainers


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 18, 2009)

Sir Lightalot said:


> I for one think the low is a bit too low... I usually need to ramp it up a tiny bit
> in order for it to be useful, and I live in the country.
> 
> Yes, good point about the *FUI*, It is set on *1% default* *not 0%* to all you complainers


..............................................................

Squeeky gear complainers.. get greased first .. make things happen... and keep changes coming .

.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 18, 2009)

Interesting find, tpchan. Gave mine a test and got the 00, but I had already set up the FUI. Thanks for pointing it out.

Geoff


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## Bimmerboy (Jun 19, 2009)

You guys rock. :rock:

lovecpf

Hate to say it, but I'm still on the fence... not about the tint though... that's actually sounding to be quite interesting. Genotypic's magazine shots make the LF2XT's tint look fantastic! Now it's more of an issue with bugs for me.

Requests/complaints/hot air for Litefux:

If memory space was a problem, was it not possible to optimize code, and/or sacrifice a function or two to allocate enough space? Having both ODP _and_ auto-off would be such an outstanding combination!

This might be a bit early to ask, but will other versions eventually be available, like darker ano? :wave:

I'm not a lost sale yet... hehe. Thanks for all your efforts, Liteflux! :thumbsup:


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## kaichu dento (Jun 19, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Go to a home improvement section - look for what are called "bumpers" that you put on kitchen cabinet doors to keep them from slamming. Look for the self-adhesive round clear ones that are 1/16" thick X 1/2" round. You may need to trim the outer edges just a bit. Clean your LF2XT button with alchohol , then apply the bumper button.
> 
> I like the feel of it better when I'm using it in momentary mode. Reminds me more of a common tacticle button. You may even like it for all-round-use.


This is a great idea, and although I don't know if I'll try it, I'm sure there's a few that will. Maybe I'll see if I can find some sticky backed clear rubber that's thin enough to still allow tailstanding, but also raise the button a touch.

I think having the button just a touch taller would be a good revision as well, but just enough to not protrude.


TooManyGizmos said:


> Want to see if *military dogtag* ball-chain will go *THRU* it. in one side - out the other.


I don't think there'll be enough room for standard ball-chain to fit without modification of some sort. Hmmm.... 


tpchan said:


> For the low-low lovers, I don't know if its been mentioned yet, but at least for me, my LF2XT did NOT come from the factory set for lowest low. From factory default, I went into the low-low setting in the FUI, then into the Setting menu (3C+PH) and if you do the brightness report (5C) you will get 1%, but the good part is that I was able to then do decrease brightness (2C), and then try the brightness report again (5C) and now my LF2XT double blinks ZERO ZERO. Success! The low-low now gives a brightness report of ZERO %.  Then do save your changes with 3C+PH.
> 
> Try it and see, YMMV! This is the REAL lowest-low on the LF2XT and it is noticeably lower than the factory default 1%.


Will that allow me to then have a lower setting using the CUI as well?


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 19, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> I'm looking forward to your opinion, but even if it isn't as low as you'd like, I think you're still going to love the LF2XT.


I' ll tell you if I like the lowest low as soon as I get mine, and I'm sure I'm going to love it!



tpchan said:


> For the low-low lovers, I don't know if its been mentioned yet, but at least for me, my LF2XT did NOT come from the factory set for lowest low. From factory default, I went into the low-low setting in the FUI, then into the Setting menu (3C+PH) and if you do the brightness report (5C) you will get 1%, but the good part is that I was able to then do decrease brightness (2C), and then try the brightness report again (5C) and now my LF2XT double blinks ZERO ZERO. Success! The low-low now gives a brightness report of ZERO %.  Then do save your changes with 3C+PH.
> 
> Try it and see, YMMV! This is the REAL lowest-low on the LF2XT and it is noticeably lower than the factory default 1%.


Good to know, thanks! Now, two important questions:


were we referring to 1% brightness or to 0% brightness when we complained that the lowest was not low enough?
when you do 2C in CUI (to have minimum mode) do you get 1% or 0% brightness??


----------



## kaichu dento (Jun 19, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> I' ll tell you if I like the lowest low as soon as I get mine, and I'm sure I'm going to love it!
> 
> 
> Good to know, thanks! Now, two important questions:
> ...


Well I just tried it and it's still much too bright to be considered a low-low setting, although it is most definitely a very nice low setting. I really like this light a lot and really look forward to having a Q3 5B like the EZAA w has in it! :naughty:


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## HighLumens (Jun 19, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> Well I just tried it and it's still much too bright to be considered a low-low setting


Doh! Well, no problem, I think I found a solution: everytime I need the low low that this liteflux can't provide I'll blind myself with a few lumens and then the lowest level will be far too low for my new needings. Just kidding


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 19, 2009)

...:naughty:

"I don't think there'll be enough room for standard ball-chain to fit without modification of some sort. Hmmm...."
____________________________________________

:green:.. yeah...Hmmmm

Well then ......... I'm thinkin if it won't pass thru , we can just put the last ball on each end of the chain thru the clip holes and tighten the retainer ring back down.

I might form new holes opposite each other on mine so the chain enters on each side. (180 degrees)

I'll see when I get it ( I'll call it *new & improved) for neck carry.
.


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 19, 2009)

.
Want it a little lower ? .........................

On the outside of the window , try installing lightly self-adhesive , textured polymer screen protector film. It leaves no sticky residue if removed. More like static-cling holding it on.

Easier to use than Matte finish Scotch tape.
You can easily apply more than one layer.

It lowers the light level just a bit and difuses the beam making it smoother with less hot-spot. Less glare on what you're lighting up. Easier on adapted night eyes.

You should at least try it ..... one time. It's on most all my lights.

We all know about it ......... but sometimes we forget about it as a sollution.
.


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## HighLumens (Jun 19, 2009)

Nice idea... where can I find it?


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 19, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> Nice idea... where can I find it?


.......................................................

Stores that sell cameras , PDA's , Phones . Common screen protector film to protect your LCD displays from scratches and finger prints.

Bought mine years ago , on-line , from Best-Buy I think.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> Doh! Well, no problem, I think I found a solution: everytime I need the low low that this liteflux can't provide I'll blind myself with a few lumens and then the lowest level will be far too low for my new needings. Just kidding


Really I like my low levels too and IMO the low is ok and unless you absolutely need to retain 100% night adapted eyes I can't see the problem and even if you do the low on the LF2XT will hardly destroy it either.

It as low as a Ra clicky IIRC "I owned a 140 cn" or at least the same low,now I'm not on any night patrols or missions and from using the low from waking eyes it will hardly blind you LOL sometimes you may have to ramp it up a little,that said just follow tpchans tip and programme the low in the FUI :twothumbs


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

Ok guys I want to try the low,low tpchan mentioned:

Firstly I'm not good with flow charts I understand 1xph and so on,well here's what I would like to try,


First I have to get into FUI how?

I want my light to come on in the lowest level possible for mode one,

how do I precede to set the the light for the other levels :thinking:

For instance I would like,

1.lowest level possible

2.7% brightness

3.18% brightness

4.35% brightness

5.50% brightness


If I get it set like that can I get 100% at any time any level? :thinking:

Thanks for any help :twothumbs


----------



## jahxman (Jun 19, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> ...First I have to get into FUI how:thinking:


 
Well, I guess I could type out the sequence to produce this for you , but it is hard to see how that is going to be any easier to follow than just using the flowchart:

http://mountech.myweb.hinet.net/LF2XT%20flowchart.pdf

Alright, I'll try then:

Basically, 5C+PH (5 clicks then press and hold) to get to FUI

Then, from each mode (1,2,3,4,5) you do 3C+PH to go to setting mode. In setting mode 2C makes current level 2/3 less bright, and 1C makes it 1.5 times as bright. 5C will give you a brighness percentage report so you know objectively what the current level is at. Once you have the level you want, 3C+PH will save changes and exit to FUI. 2C will take you to next mode, then repeat from the beginning of this paragraph to set that mode.

If you want the light to always come on at mode one (i.e. lowest low) do 7C+PH to toggle memory function off. One flash means off, two flashes means on. When memory function is on the light comes on at the mode you turned it off from.




TITAN1833 said:


> If I get it set like that can I get 100% at any time any level? :thinking:


 
Yes, a PH (press and hold) in any mode on the FUI will go to max immediately, and go back to current mode when you release the button.

Hope that helps! :tired:


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 19, 2009)

For me, the low on this light is low enough!! I'll bet it is less than a lumen, (1 percent x 60 lumens = 0.6 lumens) but have no way to test it. If you get too low, then you get flickering issues, like with Novatac. 

Oh, if you are having battery issues, be sure that your tail cap is tight. Loosening of the tailcap, can cause the symptoms mentioned.


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

jahxman said:


> Well, I guess I could type out the sequence to produce this for you , but it is hard to see how that is going to be any easier to follow than just using the flowchart:
> 
> http://mountech.myweb.hinet.net/LF2XT%20flowchart.pdf
> 
> ...


Thanks I can't programme mine in fact it's a PITA I think it will stay on CUI :sigh:


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 19, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Thanks I can't programme mine in fact it's a PITA I think it will stay on CUI :sigh:





I'm with you TiTAN ....... I don't think those charts they refered you to are very well done.

I cant follow it either ...... and I have both the 3xt and 5xt that I was able to program fine.

I can't even read the black lettering on the overly dark blue background ! Terrible chart colors !

(but I'm tired right now - I'll try later)

.


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 19, 2009)

I am not a flow chart type of person, although I probably think through things in a flow chart manner. For most people, I think flow charts are a bit overwhelming as a means of learning to program this light for the first time. They better serve as a review or refresher for somebody who already understands the light.

However, if one could break the flow chart down into a smaller digestable piece and accompany that piece with well written text along with some programming exercises or examples, most people would be able to master the light in short order. I wish I had the time to do such a manual rewrite. Any takers? 

I agree that the present Flowcharts leave a bit to be desired. If they are not printed out on a color printer, they are nearly impossible to read.

Oh, I do think the charts are basically correct. The LF2XT in many ways, outside of the already discussed glitches, is a simpler light to program than the LF3XT. For one thing, LiteFlux eliminated that FUNCTION menu, where you had to press 4C+PH just to get to the list of alterable functions; then 1xC to go through each in the list of functions to get to the function you want to change, like memory on or off; then 3xC+PH to select that function to alter; then 1xC repetitively to toggle on or off and a 3xC+PH to save the change. 

Now with the LF2xt there is no Function menu. Instead, each function, like memory on/off is directly accessible by its own combination of clicks and a PH (in the case of the latter example -7xC+PH). You toggle on or off just by repeating the same combination for that function - (7xC+PH) and the light flashes either slowly or quickly depending on whether the function is off or on. This is more direct, and ultimately quicker and easier to remember even without a flowchart.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 19, 2009)

Per request...


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

:hairpull:

Right so I go to FUI select mode I want to change do a 6xc +ph and what does it do,the dam thing locks on flashing and wont turn off until I unscrew the battery tube very weird UI if you ask me


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 19, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> I can't even read the black lettering on the *overly dark blue* background !


I agree with you, that blue is too dark!



BabyDoc said:


> I wish I had the time to do such a manual rewrite. Any takers?


I would really like to do this by uploading videos on youtube that explain how to program the light. I just have to receive the light, learn how to program it and learn to use a camera 



KuKu427 said:


> Per request...


:thumbsup: Thanks so much, great work!


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 19, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> :hairpull:
> 
> Right so I go to FUI select mode I want to change do a 6xc +ph and what does it do,the dam thing locks on flashing and wont turn off until I unscrew the battery tube very weird UI if you ask me


 

Titan, what you did was this. When you were in FUI and did 6xC+PH, you gave the command to go change the number of modes. You probably saw 5 flashes, a pause, 5 flashes, etc., because you had 5 modes operating. If at that point you tried giving a single click to turn off the light or 2 clicks to advance to another mode, it won't do that. Instead with a single click it thinks you want one operating mode; it then flashes once, pause, flash, pause,etc. With 2 clicks it thinks you want 2 modes: 2 flashes, pause, 2 flashes, pause, etc. *This flashing will keep up until you do a 3xC+PH to save any of these changes*. It isn't weard at all. 

Unscrewing the barrell probably got you out of that mode number changing function without saving the change. Had you saved the change, your light would have gone back to the mode it was operating in before you issued the 6xC+PH command.


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> What you did was this. When you were in FUI and did 6xC+PH, you gave the command to go change the number of modes. You probably saw 5 flashes, a pause, 5 flashes, etc., because you had 5 modes operating. If you tried giving a single click to turn off the light or 2 clicks to advance to another mode, it won't do that. Instead with a single click it thinks you want one operating mode; it then flashes once, pause, flash, pause,etc. With 2 clicks it thinks you want 2 modes: 2 flashes, pause, 2 flashes, pause. This will keep up until you do a 3xC+PH to save any of these changes. It isn't weard at all.


So I don't need to do 6xc+ph to change any of the 5 modes,I want all my five to be continues brightness is this possible.:thinking:

Let me see if I have it now,

Go to FUI select mode I wish to change a do 3xc+ph change level and save with 3xc+ph yes! :twothumbs


----------



## jahxman (Jun 19, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> So I don't need to do 6xc+ph to change any of the 5 modes,I want all my five to be continues brightness is this possible.:thinking:


 
Yes! 



TITAN1833 said:


> Let me see if I have it now,
> 
> Go to FUI select mode I wish to change a do 3xc+ph change level and save with 3xc+ph yes! :twothumbs


 
Yes!


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

jahxman said:


> Yes!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes!


Great!I'll give it a rest today and try/report tomorrow   Thanks for all guys :wave:


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 19, 2009)

Hang in there, Titan. You'll have it soon. Actually the manual isn't too bad. Just takes some careful reading. I find myself going back to the CUI quite often.

Geoff


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 19, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> So I don't need to do 6xc+ph to change any of the 5 modes,I want all my five to be continues brightness is this possible.:thinking:
> 
> Let me see if I have it now,
> 
> Go to FUI select mode I wish to change a do 3xc+ph change level and save with 3xc+ph yes! :twothumbs


 

NOT quite.

Let me break this down into steps.

1. Go to FUI
2. If you have 5 modes already and that's what you want, do nothing.
3. If you don't, do a 6xC+PH to get into the portion of the programming that let you change the NUMBER OF modes.
4. You will see the light flash a number corresponding to the present number of modes; .e.g. if you only have 3 modes - the light will be flashing 3times, pause, 3 flashes, pause, 3 flashes, pause.

5. You want to change that number of flashes to 5, by doing a 5xC. Now you should see: 5flashes, pause, 5 flashes, pause, etc. These flashes only confirm your selection. This selection is not saved and can be changed any number of times by just entering a different number of clicks from 1 to 5.

6. NOW, once you selected the number of modes you want, you need to save this by doing the 3xC+PH. It will stop flashing and go back to the operating mode where you started. Your light will now have 5 modes if that's what you selected and saved. Regarding this last step be reminded of the bug that I reported earlier in the thread. YOU MUST HAVE AUTO/OFF TURNED OFF!! Otherwise, 3xC+PH will not save your change. Instead, it will screw up and reduce the AUTO/OFF time period.

I hope this is clear, now.

Now as far as each mode, being constant brightness rather than flashing, strobing or SOS. That's an entirely different programming step for you. Here's what you do for that:
1. Go to a mode that is not constant that you wish to make constant.
2. Now issue the command 3xC+PH. This lets you change that modes brightness or whether it is constant, strobe, SOS.
3. If you now do PH and release, repetitively, the light will toggle through the different type of outputs for the brightness level that it is already set at. It will go from SOS to Constant to beacon to strobe to SOS, etc.
4. Once you get it to constant, if you are happy with that brightness level, just do another 3xC+PH and that mode is now changed. But if you aren't happy with brightness level, don't save it yet. Change the brightness level with 1xC increments, or 2xC decrements. Check the brightness level with a 5xC and the light will flash what the brightness level is. NOW, if you are happy with both the type of output and the brightness, do your 3xC+PH to save this and exit the mode setting.


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Hang in there, Titan. You'll have it soon. Actually the manual isn't too bad. Just takes some careful reading. I find myself going back to the CUI quite often.
> 
> Geoff


Yeah I'm actually finding it's slowly registering in the grey cells,one thing though I believe once you ramp down to the lowest low,there's not any lower it can go as I read earlier  but I'm now beginning to enjoy this light the more I play with it :twothumbs


----------



## TITAN1833 (Jun 19, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> NOT quite.
> 
> Let me break this down into steps.
> 
> ...


Yeah thanks Doc for you help,I have it now well actually I'm compiling my own manual from yours and others posts :naughty: :devil:


----------



## AFAustin (Jun 19, 2009)

I told myself I wasn't going to do it, I told myself I was going to sit this one out---"No LF2XT for me", I said. My flashlight budget is overextended at the moment, and besides, the UI is just too complicated.

But....I guess we all go through phases in this addiction, and recently, I've been in a pocketlight (especially of the AAA variety) phase. And, you maniacs just wouldn't let up----such praise for this little number, such superlatives cast about, such tender words of endearment----I couldn't stand it any longer! :sick2:

And then, just as I reached the breaking point, one of our good colleagues put up his "extra" today at a good price on B/S/T, and my last bit of resolve turned to mush. So....LF2XT en route. 

I just hope you kind souls will help me learn how to program the little darlin'......


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 19, 2009)

Good choice! We knew you'd give in soon. Hope you're as happy as the rest of us.

Geoff


----------



## AFAustin (Jun 19, 2009)

Geoff,

You are a good man, and thank you for your post. And it did cross my mind that if a wise, rational CPFer such as yourself was enamored with this little jewel, well....I might as well give in. 

Cheers,

Andrew


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 20, 2009)

Just timed my auto off and got a cool 3 mins 12 seconds,:twothumbs

BTW thanks to the Doc and jahxman I now have the FUI under my control :thumbsup:





[edit] 3+minutes auto off is a great feature of this light and it's surprising what you can do within that time,I can even use it as an egg timer for that perfect soft boiled egg


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 20, 2009)

.
Once I get my 2Xt in hand , I expect it will be easier to try and follow the chart.

I see where it says "start" but the arrows seem to lead nowhere , except to the word "no".

I don't think it gets you started very well.

The blue sure makes it harder to read.

Maybe my problem is that I was expecting the chart and programing to be pretty much the same as 3xt and 5xt. Seems that it is not.

I need to study the flow chart a little more before I get mine.

.( or I'll just ask TITAN for help) when I need it


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 20, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> .
> 
> 
> .( or I'll just ask TITAN for help) when I need it


 



No problem this thing is easy,when you know how 

Ok maybe not that easy :thinking: but after a little :hairpull:   :drunk:  :sleepy:

then start all over it does get easier :twothumbs


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## KuKu427 (Jun 20, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Just timed my auto off and got a cool 3 mins 12 seconds,:twothumbs 3+minutes auto off is a great feature of this light and it's surprising what you can do within that time,I can even use it as an egg timer for that perfect soft boiled egg


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## sinthemau (Jun 21, 2009)

*My best torch, at the moment*

Points are:

1) as small to have always in the pocket
2) aesthetically beautiful
3) all needed light levels, from very low to useful high, and more...and more
4) easy to use
5) good runtimes (specially in everyday town use where you don't need often high light levels)
6) running 10440 and eneloop...and in need alkaline
7) a lot of beacon modes (not often spoken about but useful and also entertaining...think fastened to a rucksack in night time hiking just to be followed from friends)
8) fine tint
9) nice light pattern
10) rugged...it seems

Only downside for me is the clip: ugly and weak, but really doesn't matter to me.

One thing I found really important is to haven't lube leaking inside and also to tight well the tailcap switch: otherwise LF2XT could switch on and off erratically.
Summarizing, at the moment LF2XT is the most useful and entertaining torch I have, no matter the size of battery

Happy LF2XTing to all





maurizio


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## cave dave (Jun 21, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> .......................................................
> 
> Stores that sell cameras , PDA's , Phones . Common screen protector film to protect your LCD displays from scratches and finger prints.
> 
> Bought mine years ago , on-line , from Best-Buy I think.



If you are talking about WriteRight B&W PDA screen protector, those haven't been available in a retail store in years, because color screens replaced the B&W ones years ago. The color screen protectors do not have a texture and do nothing to the beam but reduce the output. The BW smooths it but not by much anyway.

What you really want is DC fix bathroom window treatment from a hardware store. Great stuff, I have some on my EZAA. It is about 1/2 the diffusion of a Surefire F04, so retains some hotspot.


----------



## Crenshaw (Jun 21, 2009)

Badydoc, you seem to have this UI down completly!

any chance you can do a youtube video on how to program the light? 

I just sent paypal for one, and i have a feeling its going to take longer then the LF2X to figure out

Crenshaw


----------



## Kilovolt (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: My best torch, at the moment*



sinthemau said:


> Only downside for me is the clip: ugly and weak, but really doesn't matter to me.


 
I have removed the clip from mine as soon as I got the light and replaced it with the small keyring attachment.


----------



## sinthemau (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: My best torch, at the moment*



Kilovolt said:


> I have removed the clip from mine as soon as I got the light and replaced it with the small keyring attachment.


Broken as soon as tried to insert in tailcap... :sigh::sigh: it wasn't right size so I tried to force it  and then BROKEN!

No problems...naked LF2XT is more sexy!!!


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## Helmut.G (Jun 21, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> Actually the manual isn't too bad. Just takes some careful reading.


Flying Turtle is right. Finally received mine yesterday (mom says "WHY do you get mail from taiwan" ) and it was quite easy to figure out the programming. Changing the number of modes in FUI drove me crazy at first as well as changing the frequency of a strobe mode or beacon, but after some very careful re-reading I got it.
I even think that I know most of the important control codes by heart after just one day.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 21, 2009)

Helmut.G said:


> I even think that I know most of the important control codes by heart after just one day.


 Yeah it's a breeze,

I can't see what all the fuss is about,honestly guys!


----------



## Rexlion (Jun 21, 2009)

I was looking at the simplified instructions for the Liteflux lights and pondering a bit about the programming method. The tough part is remembering all the little sequences of clicks and push-holds. A bit intimidating to the potential purchaser. 

And it hit me... ... the next logical evolutionary step for Liteflux. Incorporate a wireless interface... or a mini usb port (covered by a boot or door)... to hook up to the computer, write software to include with the light, and program the light via visual UI with sliders and radio buttons for all settings. 

Why not? "America Hears" did this for their hearing aids, allowing users to tweak the frequency responses of their tiny hearing instruments. If they can do it with such small electronic appliances, it can be done in flashlights (which are huge by comparison). It's just a matter of adapting the same principle. In a few years we may have a half dozen companies offering lights easily user-programmable by computer. A LF2XT or LF5XT could be fully customized in 30 seconds, no clicks needed except mouse clicks.

Click that!


----------



## Beacon of Light (Jun 21, 2009)

* ^^^ Cool idea!


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## KuKu427 (Jun 21, 2009)

Actually they discussed the mini USB idea on the Taiwanese forums. But being an AAA light, space is at a premium and I think it was too late into the design to actually implement.


----------



## DHart (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: My best torch, at the moment*



sinthemau said:


> ...naked LF2XT is more sexy!!!



Agreed! No need for the clip for me and the light looks and feels better without clip.


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 21, 2009)

Crenshaw said:


> Badydoc, you seem to have this UI down completly!
> 
> *any chance you can do a youtube video on how to program the light?
> *
> ...


Actually, I was going to do that


----------



## juplin (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: My best torch, at the moment*



DHart said:


> sinthemau said:
> 
> 
> > No problems...naked LF2XT is more sexy!!!
> ...


Alternative solution for clip along with lanyard


----------



## JLEGG (Jun 21, 2009)

*Re: My best torch, at the moment*



juplin said:


> Alternative solution for clip along with lanyard


what is that polished front end on the one on the right and where did u get it??


----------



## Sir Lightalot (Jun 21, 2009)

Looks like a mini aspheric. Okay where'd you get it juplin, fess up.


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## juplin (Jun 21, 2009)

Yes, it's a mini aspheric, a modded lens version with excellent flood suitable for indoor use and reading. But it's only a prototype to play with now. :naughty:


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 21, 2009)

juplin said:


> Yes, it's a mini aspheric, a modded lens version with excellent flood suitable for indoor use and reading. But it's only a prototype to play with now. :naughty:


 Question is when do the masses get to play with them  and is't a Liteflux proto?


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## juplin (Jun 21, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Question is when do the masses get to play with them  and is't a Liteflux proto?


 Nope, a prototype by 3rd party. Don't know their firm shedule, but may be two months later.


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 21, 2009)

Here's my setup for now. Decided to just let the lanyard slide around the clip on a split ring. The red cap is a plug protector from a new lamp. Gives a nice warm glow and protects the front.






Geoff


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## KuKu427 (Jun 21, 2009)

Currently residing with house keys.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 21, 2009)

Thanx cave dave ,

Didn't know that ..... I will have to try your suggestion soon .



.................................................................


cave dave said:


> If you are talking about WriteRight B&W PDA screen protector, those haven't been available in a retail store in years, because color screens replaced the B&W ones years ago. The color screen protectors do not have a texture and do nothing to the beam but reduce the output. The BW smooths it but not by much anyway.
> 
> What you really want is DC fix bathroom window treatment from a hardware store. Great stuff, I have some on my EZAA. It is about 1/2 the diffusion of a Surefire F04, so retains some hotspot.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Yeah it's a breeze,
> 
> I can't see what all the fuss is about,honestly guys!



...............................................................

Yeah....but TiTAN..... you seemed fussy about 4 days ago ........

You seemed to know what it was about then .


glad you got it
.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

My new reading light :naughty:


----------



## DHart (Jun 22, 2009)

KuKu... gotta love that creamy soft beam! Artifact free.... Liteflux all the way!

Here's an image showing how nice the Liteflux beam patterns and tints are compared to a number of other popular lights... not too warm, not too cold, and artifact free.... gotta love that!


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

Dhart, that pic I just posted isn't pure LiteFlux


----------



## DHart (Jun 22, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> Dhart, that pic I just posted isn't pure LiteFlux



Oh. It appeared as though it was pure Liteflux... so what else is going on? You have a super duper emitter in that little LF2XT of you'rn? :duh2: Or, perhaps it's a diffuser.... yep, looks diffused to me on closer observation...


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

Nope! 
Here's a direct comparison pic. But for some reason this thing is hard to photograph....




Original 2XT on the left.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

Could it be an ............. R2


How much you want for THAT reading light of you'rn ......... that VERY one !


Has it got a low-low too ?




KuKu427 said:


> Nope!
> Here's a direct comparison pic. But for some reason this thing is hard to photograph....
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

Great comparison pics .... DHart ......... THANKS.

.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

Nope! R2s LEDs have just arrived and still use the original reflector assembly... Unless of course you want the wider spot setup...


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

Oh my .... YES kuku .......

I;d be VERY interested in that WIDE spot set-up.




Do tell ..........
.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

It's a working prototype at this stage. 

LiteFlux is going to take a look at the part when I get a chance to head over to their factory.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

.
Well .......... GO ............... what time do they wake up ?


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

It's 4 P.M. here.

Do you know how far their factory is???????
It's in the middle of nowhere! Even google maps doesn't have their address marked! Last time I went we got lost! It's kinda like one of those secret underground labs...

But I'm the one who put together the prototype, if you really want one I can make one for you but it's not Official LiteFlux.


----------



## csshih (Jun 22, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> .
> Well .......... GO ............... what time do they wake up ?




LOL.... sure is good to have a dealer somewhat close to liteflux.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

It's 4 AM here in eastern USA.

Does it involve damaging the original parts ...... 

Or is it replacement .... Add-on ... kinda thing ?


I'm still interested . and how much $$$ ?

.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

csshih,
Close is a relative term. I am in the same country, but their place is like 2 hours away.

TooManyGizmos,
Maybe we should take this to CPFMP before I get smacked! LOL


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

.

O/K

.

going to your 2xt sales thread with it


----------



## HighLumens (Jun 22, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> It's 4 P.M. here.
> 
> Do you know how far their factory is???????
> It's in the middle of nowhere! Even google maps doesn't have their address marked! Last time I went we got lost! It's kinda like one of those secret underground labs...


A secret underground lab?? LiteFlux secrets?? Why don't you organize trips to the factory? Of course a trip for flashaholics .

I'd prefer a trip there over a trip to disnayland lovecpf


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

Hahaha!
Organize a trip? Last time I wanted to take a picture of the brains behind LiteFlux and they told me no! I doubt they would agree to a tour...
Maybe I can sneak a spy cam past the metal detector this time.


----------



## DM51 (Jun 22, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> Maybe we should take this to CPFMP *before I get smacked*


Yes, I think you had better do exactly that - a number of your posts here could be considered to be in contravention of CPF Advertising Policies.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

.
But then they'd haf'ta kill ya .................



SECRET LAB and all.
.


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

DM .......... sorry ....sometimes we forget which thread we're posting on.

As soon as he mentioned it , I took it to his sales thread ..... sorry.

TMG




DM51 said:


> Yes, I think you had better do exactly that - a number of your posts here could be considered to be in contravention of CPF Advertising Policies.


----------



## KuKu427 (Jun 22, 2009)

DM51 said:


> Yes, I think you had better do exactly that - a number of your posts here could be considered to be in contravention of CPF Advertising Policies.


Duly noted. I'll keep and eye on it in the future.


----------



## Flying Turtle (Jun 22, 2009)

Where's the competition? Ever since the LF2 came out I've been expecting someone to offer an alternative with similar features. Stuck with Fenix for my main AAA EDC until now. I've happily switched to LiteFlux, but still wonder where are the other makers? I suppose the profit margin makes it questionable.

Geoff


----------



## TooManyGizmos (Jun 22, 2009)

.
Avenger GX is the closest I've seen so far

But this thread is about LF2XT , so start a new thread to discuss the competition


or the mod's will show up and spank


----------



## BabyDoc (Jun 22, 2009)

With regard to YouTube instructions on how to program the LF2XT:


HighLumens said:


> Actually, I was going to do that


 
HighLumens, Go for it!!! You probably don't need any help from me, but I am here if you do. I wish I had time to do a lot of things. (My wife is on me just to change a few light bulbs in the house.) To spend more time here or on YouTube is just out of the question. Nevertheless, I am more than happy to walk anybody through any programming difficulties. Just PM mail me, if you do.


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## HighLumens (Jun 22, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> With regard to YouTube instructions on how to program the LF2XT:
> 
> 
> HighLumens, Go for it!!! You probably don't need any help from me, but I am here if you do. I wish I had time to do a lot of things. (My wife is on me just to change a few light bulbs in the house.) To spend more time here or on YouTube is just out of the question. Nevertheless, I am more than happy to walk anybody through any programming difficulties. Just PM mail me, if you do.


Thanks for your help:thumbsup:. I'm waiting for the LF2XT to arrive and then I'll upload the videos. 

If you have any suggestions (or useful links) on how to make good videos, I'd really appreciate them.


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## Mr Floppy (Jun 23, 2009)

I have a question. I have two 1/2 AAA NiMH cells so I was wondering if 2.4 volts would have any additional benfit to brightness?

Sure, these cells are only 290mAh so I might be lucky to get 10 minutes out of them but I just want them for the quick wow factor.

Three 1/3 AA NiMH in a Fenix L2D Q5 doesnt seem to have much benefit over 2 AA, atleast to the naked eye but I didnt run it for very long as freshly charged, the batteries were easily over 4.2V.


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## csshih (Jun 23, 2009)

hmm,.. not sure, but if you run that setup..be sure to disable overdischarge protection.. at that high a voltage, it'll think it's a Li-ion, and cut off even when fresh.


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## BabyDoc (Jun 23, 2009)

Mr Floppy said:


> I have a question. I have two 1/2 AAA NiMH cells so I was wondering if 2.4 volts would have any additional benfit to brightness?
> 
> Sure, these cells are only 290mAh so I might be lucky to get 10 minutes out of them but I just want them for the quick wow factor.
> 
> Three 1/3 AA NiMH in a Fenix L2D Q5 doesnt seem to have much benefit over 2 AA, atleast to the naked eye but I didnt run it for very long as freshly charged, the batteries were easily over 4.2V.


 
I'm not sure either, but I would guess that because a 3.6 volt 10440 cell in this light runs the light much brighter, that 2.4 volts in any form will make a difference in brightness. Still, I doubt it will be a WOW difference. Csshih's point about the overdischarge protection being disabled makes sense. However, you will need to keep an eye on your voltage to avoid damaging your cells by over discharging them. If the light does run brighter, you can almost bet that the runtime will be reduced over a comparable mah single NIMH AAA cell (2x290mah).


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## TooManyGizmos (Jun 23, 2009)

Well .... I found out that military dog tag ball chain can't be put in the clip holes. Balls on chain are too big - not enough room.


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 24, 2009)

This little light seems to be a vampire, too. I found an old alkaline AAA that worked fine and would re-light. It's in light voltage reading was 0.54 v. It only lasted a few minutes, but it's always nice when the light will not abruptly shut down.

Geoff


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## HighLumens (Jun 26, 2009)

My LF2XT arrived today, very nice light! The HA on the body is darker than that on the head but it is not a problem.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 26, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> My LF2XT arrived today, very nice light! The HA on the body is darker than that on the head but it is not a problem.


Great :twothumbs and is the low as low as you would've liked?


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## Kilovolt (Jun 26, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> My LF2XT arrived today, very nice light! The HA on the body is darker than that on the head but it is not a problem.


 
One happy fellow ...


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## HighLumens (Jun 26, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Great :twothumbs and is the low as low as you would've liked?


I'm waiting the night to arrive and use it in a real situation where I need a low low and then I'll come back and tell you.

P.S.: beautiful tint! I'm used to cheap incans (running on half dead batteries) and if I compare my LF2XT to my cheap incans, the LF2XT looks... almost cool...but I'll tell you everything in a review


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## recDNA (Jun 26, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> My LF2XT arrived today, very nice light! The HA on the body is darker than that on the head but it is not a problem.


 
How would you compare the brightness of the LF2XT on high to the Fenix LD01 on turbo using conventional AAA batteries? The Fenix looks much brighter in the picture but perhaps it's the difference in color. I'd apprciate hearing from anybody who owns both lights.

Oh, and if anybody knows of a distributer that gives a CPF discount could you PM me? I don't want to break advertising rules and cpf8 doesn't work at the California distributer most often mentioned here.


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## kaichu dento (Jun 27, 2009)

recDNA said:


> How would you compare the brightness of the LF2XT on high to the Fenix LD01 on turbo using conventional AAA batteries? The Fenix looks much brighter in the picture but perhaps it's the difference in color. I'd apprciate hearing from anybody who owns both lights.


My LD01 is noticeably brighter on high than the LF2XT.


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## HighLumens (Jun 27, 2009)

recDNA said:


> How would you compare the brightness of the LF2XT on high to the Fenix LD01 on turbo using conventional AAA batteries? The Fenix looks much brighter in the picture but perhaps it's the difference in color. I'd apprciate hearing from anybody who owns both lights.
> 
> Oh, and if anybody knows of a distributer that gives a CPF discount could you PM me? I don't want to break advertising rules and cpf8 doesn't work at the California distributer most often mentioned here.



Sorry, i don't own the LD01.



kaichu dento said:


> My LD01 is noticeably brighter on high than the LF2XT.


I was sure it is noticeably brighter with 10440, and perhaps just a little bit brighter with conventional batteries

The Fenix is rated at 80 lumens, in previous posts we discussed about it and we decreased this number to something around 60/65 torch lumens. The LF2XT has been measured and it gives 61 lumens. Where is this big difference?


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## juplin (Jun 27, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> My LD01 is noticeably brighter on high than the LF2XT.


LD01 is driven very hard at more than 1000 mA powered by 10440 in accordance with my measurement. 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2986487&postcount=39
LF2XT is driven at 700 mA max and stable at 550 mA ~ 650 mA while powered by 10440 according to LiteFlux.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 27, 2009)

Just a little blip to report,when I got my LF2XT I noticed what I thought was a speck of dust inside the glass lens,it turned out to be a very tiny nick"on the lens" just on the edge near the bezel 0-ring.


So after putting everything back together I then noticed the chip had got bigger  well I'm waiting on Khoo for a replacement lens,


but here's the thing and it's just my opinion the o-ring is just not thick enough and it seems the lens is sandwiched between the bezel and reflector with no contact with the o-ring :mecry:

I can see this when I look at the lens I don't see any of the o-ring,this calls for a thicker o-ring IMHO :thinking:

Ok no big deal but! has anyone else noticed this?


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## recDNA (Jun 27, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> My LD01 is noticeably brighter on high than the LF2XT.


 
How about with Eneloops?


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## wapkil (Jun 27, 2009)

recDNA said:


> How about with Eneloops?



I'm not sure about LF2XT but LF2X was reported as having 350mA on a NiMH. In LF2XT the current was lowered for Li-Ions but IIRC not NiMHs so for LD01 and LF2XT the output with Eneloops should be similar.


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## Helmut.G (Jun 27, 2009)

I compared the L0D Q4 to my LF2XT. The L0D looks brighter at first, because it has a beam with a clear edge compared to the smooth transition of the Liteflux. The L0D's really blue tint vs the neutral white makes the comparison harder too.
I think they are really about equal, but like the Liteflux beam much better!

So the LD01 should theoretically be brighter since it's a bit brighter than the L0D as well. But the Liteflux beam is really great, I would choose it over even a bigger difference in brightness.


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## DHart (Jun 27, 2009)

With 10440 - ceiling bounce.

LF2XT 4.1 EV
LD01 4.9 EV (80% brighter)

With AAA Eneloop NiMH - ceiling bounce.

LF2XT 3.2 EV
LD01 3.3 EV (10% brighter)

A change of 1.0 EV difference represents
a doubling or halving of measured output.

Beams with li-ion power:


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## HighLumens (Jun 27, 2009)

Is the LF2XT lowest low low enough? This is my answer.

Yesterday evening I actually used my LF2XT to go to bed while other people in the room were already sleeping. I set it to the lowest low (0%) and I used it in candle mode (ceiling bouncing). It was bright enough to ceiling bounce but not too bright to wake up anyone. There was almost no other light source in the room (pitch darkness). I'm quite happy with this low, but perhaps would've liked it a little bit lower... but really, it's not too bright.. so... it could be better (lower) but it's still very good :thumbsup:.


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## recDNA (Jun 27, 2009)

wapkil said:


> I'm not sure about LF2XT but LF2X was reported as having 350mA on a NiMH. In LF2XT the current was lowered for Li-Ions but IIRC not NiMHs so for LD01 and LF2XT the output with Eneloops should be similar.


 
I'm sorry but I'm trying to compare apples to apples. In other words lux and mA don't help me. I need lumens.


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## wapkil (Jun 27, 2009)

recDNA said:


> I'm sorry but I'm trying to compare apples to apples. In other words lux and mA don't help me. I need lumens.



They will help you, if you use them. Lumens appear because the milliamps flow through the LED and die because of the optical looses. Unfortunately I don't remember the luminous flux values for every Cree emitter out there but you can find it in the specification (and it will be ~100lm @ 350mA). Neither do I know optical looses of the LF2XT but it will probably be ~20%-30%. The LD01, according to the specification, puts out 80 lumens but I don't know whether they are OTF or not (probably not). 

No matter what the exact lumen output is, the LF2XT puts out ~70lm-80lm and the LD01 ~60lm-80lm. When everything else (the beam shape, the tint) is equal this difference is not easily noticeable to human eye so I wrote that the lights have similar output. Later on it was confirmed by DHart's test results. And that's what you asked about, not the lumens. If you need them, you'd have to find the real integrating sphere measurements for these lights.

BTW, illuminance measured in lux and not the luminous flux is what you see, that's why the beam shape is important.

EDIT: changed "noticeable" to "easily noticeable": if the lights had 60lm and 80lm output (which they probably don't), in some circumstances it could be seen but still would be similar


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## recDNA (Jun 27, 2009)

wapkil said:


> They will help you, if you use them. Lumens appear because the milliamps flow through the LED and die because of the optical looses. Unfortunately I don't remember the luminous flux values for every Cree emitter out there but you can find it in the specification (and it will be ~100lm @ 350mA). Neither do I know optical looses of the LF2XT but it will probably be ~20%-30%. The LD01, according to the specification, puts out 80 lumens but I don't know whether they are OTF or not (probably not).
> 
> No matter what the exact lumen output is, the LF2XT puts out ~70lm-80lm and the LD01 ~60lm-80lm. When everything else (the beam shape, the tint) is equal this difference is not noticeable to human eye so I wrote that the lights have similar output. Later on it was confirmed by DHart's test results. And that's what you asked about, not the lumens. If you need them, you'd have to find the real integrating sphere measurements for these lights.
> 
> BTW, illuminance measured in lux and not the luminous flux is what you see, that's why the beam shape is important.


 
Thanks for the explanation. Pearls before swine in my case.

I was going to make an attempt at humor by posting something like, "the flinbber of the pergradet is inversely proportional to the square of the flomungus (LOL)" (indicating my stupidity) but it struck me that it could come out as flip and disinterested. I am interested. Physics just isn't my area of expertise.


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## wapkil (Jun 27, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Thanks for the explanation. Pearls before swine in my case.
> 
> I was going to make an attempt at humor by posting something like, "the flinbber of the pergradet is inversely proportional to the square of the flomungus (LOL)" (indicating my stupidity) but it struck me that it could come out as flip and disinterested. I am interested. Physics just isn't my area of expertise.



It's neither mine. Note that the explanation I gave is also extremely oversimplified. The light output that you see will depend on many additional factors like e.g. the driver behavior (may be flat, may drop during runtime) or the LED temperature. I just tried to show how it can be approximated when only limited information is available.


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## recDNA (Jun 27, 2009)

wapkil said:


> It's neither mine. Note that the explanation I gave is also extremely oversimplified. The light output that you see will depend on many additional factors like e.g. the driver behavior (may be flat, may drop during runtime) or the LED temperature. I just tried to show how it can be approximated when only limited information is available.


 

I do get that they are directly related but that factors can affect the lumen output besides mA. As you may have pointed out earlier, it's unlikely that my eyes could perceive the difference when they are that close. The dif in color would be more obvious. Now if you REALLY want to go nuts you have to include the efficiency the the receptors in the retina pick up the different colors! A light measured brighter by a machine may not appear brighter to our eyes!:hairpull:


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## wapkil (Jun 27, 2009)

recDNA said:


> Now if you REALLY want to go nuts you have to include the efficiency the the receptors in the retina pick up the different colors! A light measured brighter by a machine may not appear brighter to our eyes!:hairpull:



Yup, the receptors spectral sensitivity is already included in the lumens - they are weighted by the luminosity function 

I'm afraid we are getting too off topic here, even though lumens and receptors in the retina undoubtedly have a high importance for every LF2XT user


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## recDNA (Jun 27, 2009)

Yup, the receptors spectral sensitivity is already included in the lumens - they are weighted by the luminosity function 


Wow...perhaps that is at least part of the reason the warmer LED's always have slightly lower lumen ratings and the LF2XT (back on topic) is warmer than the LD01.


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## tygger (Jun 28, 2009)

Okay, you guys are a bad influence. After weeks of reading LF2XT threads I couldn't resist any longer. Told myself I'm sticking with the CUI but we all know that isn't gonna happen. Just know I'll be running back here for help when I get lost in the FUI matrix. Thanks for keeping my wallet empty guys.


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## HighLumens (Jun 28, 2009)

tygger said:


> Okay, you guys are a bad influence. After weeks of reading LF2XT threads I couldn't resist any longer. Told myself I'm sticking with the CUI but we all know that isn't gonna happen. Just know I'll be running back here for help when I get lost in the FUI matrix. Thanks for keeping my wallet empty guys.


I'm sorry I made your wallet empty:laughing:. The only way I have to refund you is to offer you my help if you have any problem in FUI, but I can tell you that I followed the flowchart and everything is ok:twothumbs!


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## Helmut.G (Jun 28, 2009)

One thing that I really miss in my LF2XT is a way to switch through the modes backwards or to go directly into the mode of my choice in FUI.
I have set four modes with increasing brightness, 0%, 3%, 15%, 75% or so. Now if I'm in mode 2 I have to go through all (very bright) modes to get back to 0%. I know I could turn off the memory but that isn't good either because if I need more light it takes too much time to switch to mode 4 starting at mode 1.

What do you guys think?


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## BabyDoc (Jun 28, 2009)

Helmut.G said:


> One thing that I really miss in my LF2XT is a way to switch through the modes backwards or to go directly into the mode of my choice in FUI.
> I have set four modes with increasing brightness, 0%, 3%, 15%, 75% or so. Now if I'm in mode 2 I have to go through all (very bright) modes to get back to 0%. I know I could turn off the memory but that isn't good either because if I need more light it takes too much time to switch to mode 4 starting at mode 1.
> 
> What do you guys think?


 
If you need an instant bright light while in mode 1, you can always do a PH and get full output from your light. :twothumbs While that is a bit more than 75% output of your mode 4, I doubt that you will notice the difference.


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## Helmut.G (Jun 28, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> If you need an instant bright light while in mode 1, you can always do a PH and get full output from your light. :twothumbs While that is a bit more than 75% output of your mode 4, I doubt that you will notice the difference.


I want to be able to switch from a medium mode to a low mode without being blinded, while still having the possibility to have constant bright light without holding the switch down all the time, so the PH while being a really useful feature in this situation doesn't help me very much


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## BabyDoc (Jun 28, 2009)

Helmut.G said:


> I want to be able to switch from a medium mode to a low mode without being blinded, while still having the possibility to have constant bright light without holding the switch down all the time, so the PH while being a really useful feature in this situation doesn't help me very much


 
In that situation, you would be better off using the CUI, since with the CUI you can switch instantly between 3 modes: your user set medium mode, instant low, or instant high, in any order or sequence. And if that isn't good enough, because low is a bit too low or high is bit too high, you can instantly ramp up or down either of those modes and still keep your user set mode unchanged.

Personally, I keep my light in the CUI most of the time. Unless I really need a beacon, strobe, or SOS, I rarely use the FUI. At night at home, I keep the user set mode at minimum. In that way, when when my eyes are dark accomodated, the light comes on at minimum, my most used setting for those bathroom runs. If along the way, I want it temporaily a bit brighter, I will 2xCC to get to the built in minimum mode and then ramp that up just a bit. That way my user mode stays unchanged at minimum, ready for the next night time run if I need it.

In the morning, I ramp the userset mode up to about 50 percent output, which is what I will use most of the time when my eyes are not accomodated to the dark.


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## Helmut.G (Jun 28, 2009)

Yes with the CUI this isn't a problem, but I want to use FUI


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 28, 2009)

Helmut.G said:


> I want to be able to switch from a medium mode to a low mode without being blinded, while still having the possibility to have constant bright light without holding the switch down all the time, so the PH while being a really useful feature in this situation doesn't help me very much


You could set three modes as medium,low and max,with memory switched off it will always go back to medium


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## DHart (Jun 28, 2009)

With both my LF3XT and LF2XT I stick with the CUI. I've dabbled around with the FUI, but do find it a bit complex and daunting...guess I'm getting more addle-brained in my old age  Really, though, I find the versatility, flexibility, and range available with the CUI to be everything I need and want from a light. Quick to minimum. Quick to maximum. Memory for selected output. Instant ramp up or down to any level I might desire. And all you need to remember is this:

Click for on
Double click for minimum
Click/press for maximum
Press to ramp up
Press to ramp down
Ramp to desired memorized setting and turn off

So simple, quick, easy, and offers a huge range of outputs. 

I do use the 5 clicks for a battery test... this is a phenomenal feature of the LF3XT and LF2XT.

For me, strobes and signals are completely un-necessary and not needed.

CUI for me, all the way baby. Gleefully. :twothumbs


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## Helmut.G (Jun 28, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> You could set three modes as medium,low and max,with memory switched off it will always go back to medium


I don't want to switch off the memory.


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## HighLumens (Jun 28, 2009)

Helmut.G said:


> One thing that I really miss in my LF2XT is a way to switch through the modes backwards...
> ...What do you guys think?


Yes, I tought the same a couple of times, but I already got used to turning off the light to switch faster, from example, from mode 2 to mode 1.


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## tygger (Jun 28, 2009)

So CUI is almost identical to D10 operation with the exception of the user selected level. However, strobe is useful too. What would be the quickest way to activate strobe function from CUI?


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## DHart (Jun 28, 2009)

tygger said:


> So CUI is almost identical to D10 operation with the exception of the user selected level.



Yes... one of the reasons why I love the Liteflux CUI and the D10!

Someone else will know the answer to your second question.


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## AFAustin (Jun 28, 2009)

I am glad to see you LF2XT veterans/experts say you mainly use the CUI. The LF2XT is m first LiteFlux, and I am not generally a fan of complex UIs. I decided to try the LF2XT because the features and quality for the money, along with all the praise here, made it hard to resist. When I got a shot at an even better deal on one from a fellow CPFer on B/S/T, I jumped.

I like mine very much and was happy to find the CUI both very versatile and much easier to learn than I had feared. It is actually quite intuitive, and I was using it with ease the first night I had the light.

After reading these recent posts, I am even less inclined to venture into FUI-land, though maybe if I ever have a really slow weekend....... 

I appreciate all the very helpful analysis and info. in this thread. Thanks, gents. :thumbsup:


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## DHart (Jun 28, 2009)

AFAustin... don't forget this easy command:

5 clicks for a battery test... this is a phenomenal feature of the LF3XT and LF2XT... also easy to remember and do!


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## Lite_me (Jun 28, 2009)

Helmut.G said:


> I don't want to switch off the memory.


Then use the CUI. The memory is always On. You can quickly go to any level you want. If you're in your "mode 2.... 3%" and then want to go to a lower level like you say, without having to flip through brighter outputs, you can just dbl-click to take you to LOW. If you want your user level to be ~3%, make it that. It will always come on at that level. You can always quickly jump to High or easily ramp-up, or down if needed.

Although I loove the full features of the FUI, I, like most here it seems, mostly use the CUI. It's easier than dbl-clicking all the time. I know how to get to the FUI if I need those options, which I have set to strobes & beacons with the execption of one constant output level of around 50% output in case it's needed when I'm in that inerface. I just love the fact that I have those 'tools' at my disposal. I can't imagine how it can get much better than this.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 28, 2009)

AFAustin you can always venture the FUI with 5xc+ph toggle back to CUI and your saved FUI modes will be there next time


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## AFAustin (Jun 28, 2009)

DHart said:


> AFAustin... don't forget this easy command:
> 
> 5 clicks for a battery test... this is a phenomenal feature of the LF3XT and LF2XT... also easy to remember and do!



DHart, yes indeed---I've been using that like crazy and love it. I tend to be a little compulsive in checking battery voltage, and it is so nice to be able to do it without unscrewing the head and putting the cell on a DMM. Not to mention you don't even need to be near a DMM .


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## AFAustin (Jun 28, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> AFAustin you can always venture the FUI with 5xc+ph toggle back to CUI and your saved FUI modes will be there next time



TITAN1833, that is a good point, and it may tempt me to play around a bit in FUI-land.

One of the things I don't like about complex UIs is the situation where you stumble into a setting or mode in the field and can't remember the command(s) for getting out of it. That is the case with the otherwise excellent JETBeam IBS lights---more than once I mistakenly got into a mode or function, and I couldn't remember without the dang manual how to get back to where I was, or even how to restore default settings.

With the LF2XT, if I were in FUI, and got in that situation, is there a very simple way to return to CUI---say, by unscrewing and rescrewing the head? If not, I guess I could commit my old brain to remembering 5C+PH.


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## DHart (Jun 28, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> DHart, yes indeed---I've been using that like crazy and love it. I tend to be a little compulsive in checking battery voltage, and it is so nice to be able to do it without unscrewing the head and putting the cell on a DMM. Not to mention you don't even need to be near a DMM .



It's easy to be compulsive in checking your cell level when it's so quick and easy to do. MAJOR kudos to LF for this feature!!!! Especially for those of us who thrive on unprotected 10440s (in my LD01s, LF2XT, and K-103).... yep, that's me!


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## HighLumens (Jun 28, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> Although I loove the full features of the FUI, I, like most here it seems, mostly use the CUI. It's easier than dbl-clicking all the time. I know how to get to the FUI if I need those options, which I have set to strobes & beacons with the execption of one constant output level of around 50% output in case it's needed when I'm in that inerface. I just love the fact that I have those 'tools' at my disposal. I can't imagine how it can get much better than this.


The nice thing is that the dual UI lets each one of us use our light in the best way for each one of us. Some use CUI, some use FUI, some both. The important thing is that it works well. I use FUI and sometimes CUI (and I've had my LF2XT for only 3 days ).


DHart said:


> AFAustin... don't forget this easy command:
> 
> 5 clicks for a battery test... this is a phenomenal feature of the LF3XT and LF2XT... also easy to remember and do!


I agree with you! When I still didn't have my light I tought it was a useless feature, but now I check the battery voltage very often!!


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## toneloe (Jun 29, 2009)

The light shown in the first post has one with with the defuser on, that doesn't come with my light like the LF2X, Is that an option.


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## juplin (Jun 29, 2009)

toneloe said:


> The light shown in the first post has one with with the defuser on, that doesn't come with my light like the LF2X, Is that an option.


The diffuser is the cap of Mentholatum's Lip ice.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2954097&postcount=373
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2954287&postcount=387


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 29, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> TITAN1833, that is a good point, and it may tempt me to play around a bit in FUI-land.
> 
> One of the things I don't like about complex UIs is the situation where you stumble into a setting or mode in the field and can't remember the command(s) for getting out of it. That is the case with the otherwise excellent JETBeam IBS lights---more than once I mistakenly got into a mode or function, and I couldn't remember without the dang manual how to get back to where I was, or even how to restore default settings.
> 
> With the LF2XT, if I were in FUI, and got in that situation, is there a very simple way to return to CUI---say, by unscrewing and rescrewing the head? If not, I guess I could commit my old brain to remembering 5C+PH.


If you go into a mode/function you're not sure about just do 3xc and it should return where you started without saving anything :twothumbs


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## BabyDoc (Jun 29, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> Then use the CUI. The memory is always On. You can quickly go to any level you want. If you're in your "mode 2.... 3%" and then want to go to a lower level like you say, without having to flip through brighter outputs, you can just dbl-click to take you to LOW. If you want your user level to be ~3%, make it that. It will always come on at that level. You can always quickly jump to High or easily ramp-up, or down if needed.
> 
> Although I loove the full features of the FUI, I, like most here it seems, mostly use the CUI. It's easier than dbl-clicking all the time. I know how to get to the FUI if I need those options, which I have set to strobes & beacons with the execption of one constant output level of around 50% output in case it's needed when I'm in that inerface. I just love the fact that I have those 'tools' at my disposal. I can't imagine how it can get much better than this.


 

I agree with you fully. I have my FUI set up with 5 different strobe, beacon and SOS options. Why have any constant light levels within the FUI when I can access any constant light level within the CUI, which is what I use 95% of the time? I only rarely switch to the FUI when I need a non-constant type of light output, because those are not available within the CUI.


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## Crenshaw (Jun 29, 2009)

the only thing that is annoying me now is the inductor whine....:duh2:

Crenshaw


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 29, 2009)

Crenshaw said:


> the only thing that is annoying me now is the inductor whine....:duh2:
> 
> Crenshaw


Perhaps it's a feature to annoy and chase away teenagers :laughing:


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## AFAustin (Jun 29, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> If you go into a mode/function you're not sure about just do 3xc and it should return where you started without saving anything :twothumbs



Thanks for that, but I am confused---the little booklet indicates that 3xC is to disable 3 min. auto-off function temporarily (if it's enabled)---?


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 29, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> Thanks for that, but I am confused---the little booklet indicates that 3xC is to disable 3 min. auto-off function temporarily (if it's enabled)---?


Yes but that is when the light is on not!when you enter mode settings it acts as dual purpose AFIK so say you are in a mode setting you don't want to save you do 3xc and back to where you were before,now! say you turn on the light on low you can do 3xc to temporary disable the timer but only until you turn the light off,then the timer will be reinstated


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## lightsandknives (Jun 29, 2009)

Crenshaw said:


> the only thing that is annoying me now is the inductor whine....:duh2:
> 
> Crenshaw



This is the only issue keeping me from buying a LF2XT! I have two pet peeves, a preflash, and inductor whine! I had an HDC Basic 42 that had an inductor whine and I gave it to my son. Sure wish the LifeFlux didn't have it! I'm looking for a cool new light to buy, but the two hottest lights out now seem to have one or the other of my dislikes.


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## wingnutLP (Jun 29, 2009)

lightsandknives said:


> This is the only issue keeping me from buying a LF2XT! I have two pet peeves, a preflash, and inductor whine! I had an HDC Basic 42 that had an inductor whine and I gave it to my son. Sure wish the LifeFlux didn't have it! I'm looking for a cool new light to buy, but the two hottest lights out now seem to have one or the other of my dislikes.



I have to say I can't hear any whine unless the light is touching my ear and above 50% brightness. More than 3 inches from my ear and I can't hear it even on 100%.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 29, 2009)

wingnutLP said:


> I have to say I can't hear any whine unless the light is touching my ear and above 50% brightness. More than 3 inches from my ear and I can't hear it even on 100%.


I only hear it with 10440


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## AFAustin (Jun 29, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Yes but that is when the light is on not!when you enter mode settings it acts as dual purpose AFIK so say you are in a mode setting you don't want to save you do 3xc and back to where you were before,now! say you turn on the light on low you can do 3xc to temporary disable the timer but only until you turn the light off,then the timer will be reinstated



OK, thanks, Titan. That makes sense.


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## lightsandknives (Jun 29, 2009)

wingnutLP said:


> I have to say I can't hear any whine unless the light is touching my ear and above 50% brightness. More than 3 inches from my ear and I can't hear it even on 100%.



I thought about starting a poll to see how many users actually can hear the whine. If it's only within a few inches of the ear, I'm not too concerned. Or, with 10440, as currently, I don't have any.


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## HighLumens (Jun 29, 2009)

I can hear the whine from 10% (if I keep my light less than 1 inch/2.5 cm from my ear) to 100% (even at >8 inches/20 cm). But it doesn't bother too much...


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## jahxman (Jun 29, 2009)

I hear it also, but only if I basically stick the light in my ear. I probably won't be using it like that much. Although, the light shining in my ear DOES feels nice and warm


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 29, 2009)

Matrixshaman said this to me once,

I wont be wearing the LF2XT on a ear ring so it doesn't bother me much 

I have to agree it's not that bad and it wont damage the light in anyway


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## Lite_me (Jun 29, 2009)

I can hear it too but only when close to an ear. But then again, I'm older and worked in a factory most of my life. 

The other day tho, when going to the barthroom, I tail-stood my LF2XT for light on a small glass shelf that's on the wall and it amplified the sound to where I could hear it from anywhere in the room!  Another thing I noticed is that holding it with just your teeth, no lips, you can hear it whine sometimes. :shrug:


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## Flying Turtle (Jun 29, 2009)

jahxman said:


> I hear it also, but only if I basically stick the light in my ear. I probably won't be using it like that much. Although, the light shining in my ear DOES feels nice and warm




Just my feelings, too. :laughing:

Geoff


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 29, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> holding it with just your teeth, no lips, you can hear it whine sometimes. :shrug:


Then don't bite it so hard! it's very sensitive  

Hey liteflux? that wasn't in the manual either what gives :laughing:


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## qtaco (Jun 29, 2009)

Can someone point me to a plot of stored energy vs voltage for a 10440 battery? I understand that fresh off the charger they are around 4.2 volts, and by ~3.5 volts they are pretty much flat, but is the relationship roughly linear? If not, anyone care to offer their rule of thumb?

Knowing the voltage is handy, but having an estimate for the remaining energy would be even handier.


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## DM51 (Jun 30, 2009)

qtaco said:


> Can someone point me to a plot of stored energy vs voltage for a 10440 battery? I understand that fresh off the charger they are around 4.2 volts, and by ~3.5 volts they are pretty much flat, but is the relationship roughly linear? If not, anyone care to offer their rule of thumb?
> 
> Knowing the voltage is handy, but having an estimate for the remaining energy would be even handier.


Your understanding is correct. This applies to all Li-Ion (LiCo) cells. Here is a useful table which gives the approximate relationship between voltage and state of charge. Bear in mind the figures below are *resting* voltages, where the Li-Ion cell has been resting (not under load) for at least 15 minutes. 

4.2 volts 100%
4.1 about 90%
4.0 about 80%
3.9 about 60%
3.8 about 40%
3.7 about 20%
3.6 empty for practical purposes
<3.5 = over-discharged


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## BabyDoc (Jun 30, 2009)

I just got my 10440 cells from AW in the Marketplace. If you haven't gotten any for your LF2XT, all I can say is you are really missing something. I can't believe how much brighter the light is! It now looks nearly as bright as the LF3xt. 

I have a question about the over discharge protection of the LF2xt. It is merely a toggle on and off, but doesn't make you select the type of battery you are running, as you do with that option of the LF3XT.
According to the user instructions, this protection works automatically without having to select whether you are running 10440 cells or NIMH cells. If you have been running 10440 cells with the protection turned on, and then switch to NIMH cells, why doesn't the light shut down?
In other words, how does it know you have made the switch to a lower voltage NIMH cell vs the 10440 cell having become run down?


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## HKJ (Jun 30, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> I just got my 10440 cells from AW in the Marketplace. If you haven't gotten any for your LF2XT, all I can say is you are really missing something. I can't believe how much brighter the light is! It now looks nearly as bright as the LF3xt.
> 
> I have a question about the over discharge protection of the LF2xt. It is merely a toggle on and off, but doesn't make you select the type of battery you are running, as you do with that option of the LF3XT.
> According to the user instructions, this protection works automatically without having to select whether you are running 10440 cells or NIMH cells. If you have been running 10440 cells with the protection turned on, and then switch to NIMH cells, why doesn't the light shut down?
> In other words, how does it know you have made the switch to a lower voltage NIMH cell vs the 10440 cell having become run down?



It could be as simple as assuming that any voltage below 1.7 volt is NiMH/Alkaline/Lithium and above is LiIon


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## DM51 (Jun 30, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> I just got my 10440 cells from AW in the Marketplace... a question about the over discharge protection of the LF2xt...


It would be interesting to hear what total runtime you are getting from a single 10440 until the low-voltage cut-off, and what voltage reading the cell gives when rested for ~30 mins after the test.

>30 mins run-time and 3.5V would be good. <30 mins and 3.0V would be quite tough on the cell. <3.0V would not be good at all.


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## BabyDoc (Jun 30, 2009)

DM51 said:


> It would be interesting to hear what total runtime you are getting from a single 10440 until the low-voltage cut-off, and what voltage reading the cell gives when rested for ~30 mins after the test.
> 
> >30 mins run-time and 3.5V would be good. <30 mins and 3.0V would be quite tough on the cell. <3.0V would not be good at all.


 
I believe light-reviews.com did runtimes with the 10440 cells, although they didn't report on the auto-shutdown accuracy. I believe they got 22 min at 100 percent output until the light output dropped 50 percent of its output. At 50 percent output, they got 1hr21min before it dropped by 50 percent. According to the user manual, the low voltage protection with 10440 cells is supposed to kick in when voltage drops below 2.8 volt. In the past LiteFlux has been very accurate with their low voltage protection claims. I'll keep an eye on my cells, however.

Again, if this has not been stressed already, it bares repeating. *ODP with the LF2XT does not work if you have the auto/off feature enabled. *
The ODP WILL SEEM to be working because it double flashes as though it were working, when you toggle the ODP on, even with the Auto/off enabled. Nevertheless, ODP is not working as long as auto/off is working. LiteFlux needs to add a warning to their instructions about this, because ironically, Auto/off turned on, while it is meant to save battery life, may actually allow the battery to be overdischarged and permanently destroyed.


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## DM51 (Jun 30, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> I believe they got 22 min at 100 percent output until the light output dropped 50 percent of its output.


That sounds like a discharge rate of ~2.5C, depending on how the output was measured in that particular case. The dimming would be quite noticeable at that rate, so you should have adequate warning to switch off before the cell over-discharged.


> At 50 percent output, they got 1hr 21min before it dropped by 50 percent


 Here the dimming would be much less noticeable, and the due to the lower current draw the voltage sag would be less, so you would have 2 factors combining to make over-discharge likely.

Li-Ion cells can recover quite well from over-discharge, as long as they are treated with care and recharged at an appropriate rate *as soon as possible* after discharge. The longer they are left empty, the more permanent the damage that will be done.


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## qtaco (Jun 30, 2009)

DM51 said:


> Here is a useful table which gives the approximate relationship between voltage and state of charge.
> ...



Thanks mate, that's just what I was looking for! 



BabyDoc said:


> *ODP with the LF2XT does not work if you have the auto/off feature enabled. *



That is really disappointing, ODP + auto/off + 10440 is how I wish to run the light! As you've been in touch with Liteflux, do you know if they have any plans to fix the problem? 

I was using Auto/off to prevent accidental button presses running the battery flat, but ODP is more important with li-ions so now there is only one inferior option: lockout the head, requiring a twist and a button press to turn the light on. What a shame, this light was almost perfect.


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## BabyDoc (Jun 30, 2009)

qtaco said:


> Thanks mate, that's just what I was looking for!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

The auto/off feature was added at the last minute primarily because we requested the feature. It was not in the original plan or program for the light. LiteFlux had no room within the memory available to add the feature without either eliminating another feature or overlapping a feature already present in the light. Why they decided to overlap the Auto/off feature is anybody's guess. (Could they have instead overlapped the Tactical which many don't use?) It would seem to me that if people are concerned about rechargables, they would want both Auto/off and the ODP to work simultaneously. However, as you pointed out you could just loosen the head in place of the auto off. With primaries, where you probably want to run them down completely before disgarding them, keep ODP off and then you can use the auto-off and not need to loosen the head to lockout the light. I don't think LiteFlux can eliminate this problem with the available memory that is now in the light, unless they were to eliminate Auto/off or some other function completely? This problem was known prior to releasing the light and not some bug that was discovered later. That's why I think LiteFlux needed to include some warning in the instruction manual, even if it meant just including a supplemental sheet within the manual.

I have two LF2XT's. The light on my keychain has a lithium primary. (Reason: the lithium battery is lighter in weight, won't leak, has more capacity, retains its charge over a long period of time even under the adverse conditions of being exposed to body heat continuously; although it is more costly, this primary seldom gets depleted because the light is a backup that isn't used that often. On the other hand, the light in my shirt pocket has a 10440 because it gets frequently used and I want maximum brightness in at least one of my lights. It needs to be rechargable for economy, because of it being used so often and depleted often.

Therefore, the one on my keychain with its primary has ODP off because I don't need it and Auto-off on because the light in a pants pocket is much more likely to get accidentally turned on. In contrast, the light in my shirt pocket has the ODP turned on to protect the rechargable. I don't worry about accidental turn-on in my shirt pocket (it just won't happen), so there is no need for auto-off. For the same reason, I don't need to loosen the head on my shirt pocket light either.


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## hogger (Jun 30, 2009)

nice logic Doc!


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## wapkil (Jun 30, 2009)

DM51 said:


> That sounds like a discharge rate of ~2.5C, depending on how the output was measured in that particular case. The dimming would be quite noticeable at that rate, so you should have adequate warning to switch off before the cell over-discharged.
> 
> [...]
> 
> Here the dimming would be much less noticeable, and the due to the lower current draw the voltage sag would be less, so you would have 2 factors combining to make over-discharge likely.



Do you mean the dimming after the light drops out of the regulation? Looking at the graphs from light-reviews I think that in the 100% level the drop should be from ~100lm OTF to ~20lm in a few minutes, in the 50% mode from ~40lm to ~10lm. Both should be easily noticeable.


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## HighLumens (Jun 30, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> That's why I think LiteFlux needed to include some warning in the instruction manual, even if it meant just including a supplemental sheet within the manual.


It would be right and useful to include this warning in the instruction manual, but don't forget we've already been warned of the Auto-off overriding the ODP in the PDF flowchart in note 2. I'm reporting it here:

_Note2 the priority of Auto-OFF is higher than ODP
ODP will active when Auto-OFF disable or
temporary disable only ._

IIRC I had already written the exact same post a few pages ago .


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## BabyDoc (Jun 30, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> It would be right and useful to include this warning in the instruction manual, but don't forget we've already been warned of the Auto-off overriding the ODP in the PDF flowchart in note 2. I'm reporting it here:
> 
> _Note2 the priority of Auto-OFF is higher than ODP_
> _ODP will active when Auto-OFF disable or_
> ...


 
Believe it or not, LiteFlux sells light to anybody, not just to us on the forum, who read flow charts. So you are out of luck with your rechargables if you buy your light without checking in here. Even if you do, the way the warning is written in the flow chart, IMO is very unclear. (I totally missed it when I looked at the flow chart the first time. ) Instead of the mumble-jumble about priorities, why doesn't it simply say, "WARNING: Auto-off if turned on, disables ODP. Keep Auto-off, off, before turning ODP, on."


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## HighLumens (Jun 30, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> Believe it or not, LiteFlux sells light to anybody, not just to us on the forum, who read flow charts.


 sometimes I forget we (CPFers) are not the only buying high quality lights. :thumbsup:


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## Lite_me (Jun 30, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> _Note2 the priority of Auto-OFF is higher than ODP
> ODP will active when Auto-OFF disable or
> temporary disable only ._


But if I understand this correctly, this is good! I run a 10440 but have the 3min Off enabled, as I carry it in my pocket alot. But, if I knew that I was going to use the light for an extended period of time, and temporarily disabled the 3min Off (3 clks),ODP would kick-in protecting the battery. Right? This is great if it works like that.


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## HighLumens (Jun 30, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> But if I understand this correctly, this is good! I run a 10440 but have the 3min Off enabled, as I carry it in my pocket alot. But, if I knew that I was going to use the light for an extended period of time, and temporarily disabled the 3min Off (3 clks),ODP would kick-in protecting the battery. Right? This is great if it works like that.


Yes, but it could even turn on by itself very often and the light will turn off every time after 3 minutes. If this happens many times your battery will die because it'll be overdischarged because nothing avoids it to continue being drained even if just for 3 minutes a time. 

I don't know if I explained it clearly.


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## Lite_me (Jun 30, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> I don't know if I explained it clearly.


 You did!  But I don't go that long before checking on it myself. In fact, I'd say I over do it! I seriously doubt that I'd run into that problem. I run a battery check every couple of days. And with my constant in and out of pocket use, I think I'll be good! :thumbsup:


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## HighLumens (Jun 30, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> You did!  But I don't go that long before checking on it myself. In fact, I'd say I over do it! I seriously doubt that I'd run into that problem. I run a battery check every couple of days. And with my constant in and out of pocket use, I think I'll be good! :thumbsup:


So good luck with your batteries . I check the battery voltage (Eneloop) very often because I want to understand when and how the ODP starts working.


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 30, 2009)

If I find my LF2XT is so rickety on 10440,guess what I'll just use L92 just as bright and no problem if the battery gets damaged,this light is made for feeding :devil:


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## Lite_me (Jun 30, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> If I find my LF2XT is so *rickety *on 10440,


Rickety?

1) Inclined to shake as from weakness or defect.

2)Affected with, suffering from, or characteristic of rickets.

3)Lacking bodily or muscular strength or vitality.

So which one is it!? Certainly not the last one!

What do you mean by rickety? :thinking:


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## TITAN1833 (Jun 30, 2009)

Lite_me said:


> Rickety?
> 
> 1) Inclined to shake as from weakness or defect.
> 
> ...


Lacking stability or firmnessl  so yes! on the last one, go figure :devil:


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## Lite_me (Jul 1, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Lacking stability or firmnessl  so yes! on the last one, go figure :devil:


Well ok,, I guess. But I don't see what that has to do with using 10440 batteries. :thinking: It's still the same light. It's no more, "rickety". 

Using a Li-Ion makes the LF2XT a better light in my opinion. Maybe it doesn't sing as much on a primary or rechargeable but that doesn't bother me. I can't hardly hear it anyway. Least not most of the time.  I prefer the added benefits of a Li-Ion in there. I'm sure you know the score. :nana:


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## matrixshaman (Jul 1, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> I just got my 10440 cells from AW in the Marketplace. If you haven't gotten any for your LF2XT, all I can say is you are really missing something. I can't believe how much brighter the light is! It now looks nearly as bright as the LF3xt.
> 
> I have a question about the over discharge protection of the LF2xt. It is merely a toggle on and off, but doesn't make you select the type of battery you are running, as you do with that option of the LF3XT.
> According to the user instructions, this protection works automatically without having to select whether you are running 10440 cells or NIMH cells. If you have been running 10440 cells with the protection turned on, and then switch to NIMH cells, why doesn't the light shut down?
> In other words, how does it know you have made the switch to a lower voltage NIMH cell vs the 10440 cell having become run down?



I don't know if I saw this somewhere here or if it's just a case of knowing this has been done with at least one other light I can think of but I'm fairly sure this is a case where the circuit detects initial battery voltage upon a battery change and automatically sets OD protection for that type of cell.


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## DHart (Jul 1, 2009)

I can only give a hearty recommendation to the use of li-ions in any light which can run on them. Learn what you must to understand their requirements. THAT is a MUST! Then, if you are willing to follow proper procedure, go forth with li-ion whenever possible!


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## kaichu dento (Jul 2, 2009)

I don't know what happened but yesterday I remember holding the button down and ever since the light flashes when it first comes on. 

LiteFlux Doc, what is going on with my light and what is the prescription for this malady?


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## jahxman (Jul 2, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> I don't know what happened but yesterday I remember holding the button down and ever since the light flashes when it first comes on.
> 
> LiteFlux Doc, what is going on with my light and what is the prescription for this malady?


 
Sounds like you put the button into tactical mode. Turn it on, do 4 quick presses in a row. It should flash slowly twice; now the button is back to normal, and it should come on immediately with no flash when you press the button from off.


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## kaichu dento (Jul 2, 2009)

jahxman said:


> Sounds like you put the button into tactical mode. Turn it on, do 4 quick presses in a row. It should flash slowly twice; now the button is back to normal, and it should come on immediately with no flash when you press the button from off.


lovecpf

Thanks Jahxman! That has been driving me nuts and I got some looks today at lunch while I sat there fiddling with my little light while eating! 

What is the purpose for the tactical mode, and having the light flash when coming on?


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## neo_xeno (Jul 2, 2009)

when in tactical mode the button acts as a forward clicky where you can press and hold and the light will turn on, when you let go the light will turn off.


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## kaichu dento (Jul 2, 2009)

Liteflux really thinks of everything!


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## BabyDoc (Jul 2, 2009)

kaichu dento said:


> ....
> What is the purpose of having the light flash when coming on (constant)?


 
When in tactical mode, if you do a PH the light comes on instantly without a flash. If you just do a brief press and release, the so called click, the light flashes before coming on constant. Why the flash, you ask? The reason is simple if you think about it from what I just said. 

As you begin to press the button for the brief click, the light doesn't know if this is going to be a press hold or not; it assumes first that it will be a PH and begins to give you light, but when you quickly let up on the switch (i.e you hold it down for less than 0.3 sec), the light now knows you are doing a click and want it to go constant, so it does.

You think they could eliminate the flash when you go constant while tactical is turned on?. Yes, but to do that there would have to be a 0.3 sec delay for the light to light, waiting to see if you are doing a PH or just a click. During that delay, the light wouldn't be able to light at all. Most people wouldn't like that since it defeats the instant-on and off purpose of the tactical PH, if that is what you really about to do. I hope this is now clear.


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## Zeruel (Jul 2, 2009)

This quick flash happened to my LF3XT. It's eliminated when I reset to factory setting. After which it's normal click and light comes on without flash.
Oops.... did you mention tactical mode?


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## HighLumens (Jul 2, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> You think they could eliminate the flash when you go constant while tactical is turned on?. Yes, but to do that there would have to be a 0.3 sec delay for the light to light, waiting to see if you are doing a PH or just a click. During that delay, the light wouldn't be able to light at all. Most people wouldn't like that since it defeats the instant-on and off purpose of the tactical PH, if that is what you really about to do. I hope this is now clear.


That flash is not very boring, but it's there.


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## 2xTrinity (Jul 2, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> I don't know if I saw this somewhere here or if it's just a case of knowing this has been done with at least one other light I can think of but I'm fairly sure this is a case where the circuit detects initial battery voltage upon a battery change and automatically sets OD protection for that type of cell.


I actually tested this on my LF2 with a DC power supply.

As far as I could tell the logic is this:
0 < Voltage < 0.8V -- ODP
0.8V < Voltage < 2.0V -- OK
2.0 < Voltage < 2.8* -- ODP
2.8* < Voltage < 5.0 -- OK

* I don't recall for sure if this was 2.8V or 3V

Voltage > 5V OR Voltage < 0V -- rumored "magic smoke" mode (I didn't have the nerve to test these)

And that applies to loaded voltage. so if ODP kicks in at a high output mode, it's usually possible to keep running the cell at a lower output mode further until the loaded voltage drops down to the cutoff point at the reduced load.

IF they are still using this kind of formula, it looks like a 3V nominal cell like LiFeP04 would not work with overdischarge protection. It expects either ~3.7V or ~1.5V nominal batteries only.


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## baterija (Jul 2, 2009)

DHart said:


> I can only give a hearty recommendation to the use of li-ions in any light which can run on them. Learn what you must to understand their requirements. THAT is a MUST! Then, if you are willing to follow proper procedure, go forth with li-ion whenever possible!



Unless you are one of the people who REALLY want that low to be the bare miniumum and find yourself wishing for less output than the .2% mode gives you. The light is brighter both at the top AND at the bottom of it's range on Li-ion.


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## DHart (Jul 3, 2009)

baterija said:


> Unless you are one of the people who REALLY want that low to be the bare miniumum and find yourself wishing for less output than the .2% mode gives you. The light is brighter both at the top AND at the bottom of it's range on Li-ion.



Absolutely agree... if output with li-ion is higher than desired, and a lower output can be obtained by using lower voltage power sources... by all means! Not all lights offer a lower low with NiMH vs. Li-Ion, however... my Jet I Pro, for example, in ceiling bounce measurement on low yields an EV of -1.1 with Li-Ion and -1.2 with NiMH - an insignificant difference.


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## strinq (Jul 3, 2009)

Just placed my order for one. Will be arriving in a few days and i'll be in the club!


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## matrixshaman (Jul 3, 2009)

2xTrinity said:


> I actually tested this on my LF2 with a DC power supply.
> 
> As far as I could tell the logic is this:
> 0 < Voltage < 0.8V -- ODP
> ...



Thanks for confirming that 2xTrinity. I think your last statement on the 3V LiFePO4 cell may be the leftover of the same design used in the LF3XT in that it would allow a 3 volt Primary battery to run down without any ODP kicking in. That's how I'd want it for the LF3XT but of course there are no 3 volt primary lithium cells in AAA format that I know of (just the 1.7 volt Lithiums). I think most people would be using Li-Ion or NiMH anyway as I don't see any advantage of LiFePO4 in this light.


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## juplin (Jul 3, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> 2xTrinity said:
> 
> 
> > IF they are still using this kind of formula, it looks like a 3V nominal cell like LiFeP04 would not work with overdischarge protection. It expects either ~3.7V or ~1.5V nominal batteries only.
> ...


I had tested several 3.2V LiFePO4 10440 cells with open circuit voltages ranging from 3.24V to 3.32V in LF2XT under 100% brightness while the ODP is enabled. 
I found LF2XT will judge the LiFePO4 10440 with initial voltage of 3.20V or higher voltage under load as the common 3.7V Li-ion, and the ODP will kick in to blink when the LiFePO4 10440 voltage under load is lower than 3.10v and will turn off LF2XT at 2.80V.
On the other hand, LF2XT will judge the LiFePO4 10440 with initial voltage lower than 3.20V (and higher than 1.70V) under load as primary lithium cell, and the ODP will not kick in at any voltage.
BTW, although common 10440 Li-ion is substantially safe to be used in LF2XT, I am still apt to power my LF2XT with LiFePO4 10440 while this LF2XT is used as the backup light by neck carry and is hung around my heart. :laughing:


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## Bimmerboy (Jul 3, 2009)

Juplin - I'm very interested in getting a couple LiFePO4 10440's, and wondering where you got yours. I can't even seem to find info about them, much less where to buy.


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## juplin (Jul 3, 2009)

Bimmerboy said:


> Juplin - I'm very interested in getting a couple LiFePO4 10440's, and wondering where you got yours. I can't even seem to find info about them, much less where to buy.


I bought these LiFePO4 10440's from a local dealer in Taiwan.
Searching for the LiFePO4 10440 in the web, I find two sources in China.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/238958564/3_2V_Motive_Power_Battery.html
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/225287641/LiFePo4_battery_IFR10440_.html

My LiFePO4 10440's should come from the first source by checking the specification.
Since these two sources only trade in the above B2B platform with min quantity of 500 or 1000 pcs, you might find some interested local dealers to involve in distribution.


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## HighLumens (Jul 4, 2009)

I uploaded a video on youtube that shows the LF2XT accessories and the CUI. I will upload other videos about FUI, programmation, perhaps some outdoor stuff and so on. 

You find it here.


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## Bimmerboy (Jul 4, 2009)

juplin said:


> Searching for the LiFePO4 10440 in the web, I find two sources in China.



Ahhh... I didn't realize they had the "IFR" designation. Alibaba comes right up if using that in the search terms. Thanks, Juplin. 

This would probably be a great battery for the Avenger GX, which is why I'm looking for them. Energy density is certainly less than NiMH, but it would be a happy trade-off for me. I suspect there would be zero luck in getting a dealer to stock them, or many probably already would. Shame they're not easily available!


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## qtaco (Jul 5, 2009)

Any thoughts on how waterproof this light might be? Is this style of switch more likely to malfunction if a little water gets in there? I have read about issues on the Zebralights that have similar switches, but I'm not sure if that's comparable.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 5, 2009)

qtaco said:


> Any thoughts on how waterproof this light might be? Is this style of switch more likely to malfunction if a little water gets in there? I have read about issues on the Zebralights that have similar switches, but I'm not sure if that's comparable.


Well al I can tell you is it's not a dive light that said I dunked it for 30 mins and no water got in 







BTW no bubbles were seen which is a good indication this light is at least a dunker,


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## matrixshaman (Jul 5, 2009)

The LF2XT switch is nothing like the Zebarlight switch AFAIK. They are two totally different setups other than the ZL switch may run a MCU controlled circuit as does the LF2XT. The LF2XT is listed as being "Water resistant for daily normal use. Not suitable for diving or swimming."

Titan beat me to the answer and a better one at that  I thought it might be a bit under rated and that proves it.


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## qtaco (Jul 5, 2009)

Ok thanks for the clarification guys, Titan's test is definitive enough for me!


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## tygger (Jul 5, 2009)

Well, after a few days I find myself really enjoying the FUI more than I expected. However, the FUI menu only allows me to adjust single-flash beacon and strobe. I would like to change the frequency and brightness of the double-flash beacon (factory FUI mode #4) but I can't find it in the settings menu. Any help would be appreciated.

Nevermind. Figured it out. Its in the same menu as the single-flash beacon. Just had to keep double clicking to get there.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 5, 2009)

FYI, my full review of the LF2XT is now up:

LiteFlux LF2XT Review (1xAAA) - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more! 

I won't keep you in suspense - I've very impressed with 'em.


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## tygger (Jul 6, 2009)

Okay, at first I thought I'd never use the FUI and now I can't stop customizing the thing. Now I know what everyone's been raving about. What a great little light.


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## bluewater (Jul 6, 2009)

Forgive me if this is an obvious answer...but. How long is the "hold" part of a press and hold?
I have an R2 on the way and have been studying the flowcharts. If in CUI and I want MAX output (1C+PH). When you release it then stays in MAX I assume?


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## tygger (Jul 6, 2009)

I think the hold is around 1 or 2 seconds. Not long. The clicks and presshold do feel well timed and its very easy to get the hang of it. BTW, where did you order the R2 from? I'm thinking about getting one but kuku appears to be closed temporarily and elite doesn't offer the R2 version.


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## tygger (Jul 6, 2009)

bluewater said:


> Forgive me if this is an obvious answer...but. How long is the "hold" part of a press and hold?
> I have an R2 on the way and have been studying the flowcharts. If in CUI and I want MAX output (1C+PH). When you release it then stays in MAX I assume?




Yes, when you release the button it says in max. I think the hold is around 1 or 2 seconds. Not long. The clicks and presshold do feel well timed and its very easy to get the hang of it. BTW, where did you order the R2 from? I'm thinking about getting one but kuku appears to be closed temporarily and elite doesn't offer the R2 version.


Oops, sorry for the double post, my browser is playing tricks on me.


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## bluewater (Jul 6, 2009)

I bought the R2 from Kuku, before he sold out. Not sure why the sales thread is closed, hopefully just because he's temporarily out of stock.

thanks for the reply,


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## KuKu427 (Jul 7, 2009)

Well with the R2's it's more like permanently out of stock. I am saving 3 R2s to go with Ti tubes when they arrive.

The other dealers caught a piggyback from my spearhead and will have their own R2s in a few days. But there were only 110 made. So once those are gone...you'll have to settle for third party modded R2s. 

I closed my sales thread just to take a much needed break. Some of you might have figured out that in order for me to answer emails and posts the way I do, I don't have time to get much sleep. That and the day job has taken its toll. And since I'm out of stock... :laughing:

But I will be back! Sapphire windows for the LF2XT are expected to arrive 7/18 so I guess I'll reopen the thread then.


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## tygger (Jul 7, 2009)

Lets hope they decide to make more R2's. Considering how fast they sold out there seems to be a big demand. Maybe Kuku could suggest another run of R2's to Liteflux?  After he gets some rest of course.


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## HighLumens (Jul 7, 2009)

bluewater said:


> Forgive me if this is an obvious answer...but. How long is the "hold" part of a press and hold?
> I have an R2 on the way and have been studying the flowcharts. If in CUI and I want MAX output (1C+PH). When you release it then stays in MAX I assume?



The difference between C (Click) and PH (Press and Hold) is that click lasts less than 0.3 sec and PH lasts more than 0.3 sec. You can find it explained in the manual.

Another way to show how the CUI works is this video:


HighLumens said:


> I uploaded a video on youtube that shows the LF2XT accessories and the CUI. I will upload other videos about FUI, programmation, perhaps some outdoor stuff and so on.
> 
> You find it here.


Hope that helps.


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## handy (Jul 7, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> Sapphire windows for the LF2XT are expected to arrive 7/18 so I guess I'll reopen the thread then.



Any ideas on when the Ti Tritum buttons will be available? 

You deserve a well needed break.:sleepy: You really went the extra mile in servicing all of our needs... or should I say wants! :thanks:


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## KuKu427 (Jul 7, 2009)

No problem Handy. I just tried to do what I would want my web dealer to do.

The tritium vial samples were taken to LF last Tuesday when I picked up the R2s. LF will measure the vials, call up the original CAD drawings, make modifications, send drawings to the machine shop. The machine shop has to then source Ti and find machine time.

In short... I have no clue! 

But I will call LF up in a day or two and ask about progress.


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## strinq (Jul 7, 2009)

Oh my, if the trit vials do come out, i'm so gonna get one for my unit.


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## GTSECC (Jul 7, 2009)

Where does the trit go on the LF2XT?


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## KuKu427 (Jul 8, 2009)

Two vials in the button. The walls are too thin to put any on the body without piercing the tubes. There is space for some around the bezel if we pierce the tube around the reflector and Norland the entire assembly in there....


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## strinq (Jul 9, 2009)

I just joined the club. 

First impression wasn't good cuz i thought it looked really flimsy and all (due to not being use to such a small light) but after awhile i came to realise its not so and should be weight for weight equal to the bigger lights in strength.

So far the CUI seems perfectly workable to me. 
Still exploring the FUI.
Only stuck at the Settings chart now, a little confused...


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## HighLumens (Jul 9, 2009)

strinq said:


> I just joined the club.
> 
> First impression wasn't good cuz i thought it looked really flimsy and all (due to not being use to such a small light) but after awhile i came to realise its not so and should be weight for weight equal to the bigger lights in strength.
> 
> ...


I'm happy for you! Don't worry for the programmation, I'm going to upload a video about it in a couple of days :twothumbs.


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## HighLumens (Jul 9, 2009)

Guys, I found a strange thing in the beacon/strobe programmation. 
If I try to program the frequency of the beacon/strobe I can only exit by 3C+PH(saving the new frequency). If I try to exit with 3C (if I don't want to save the new frequency) I can't. 3C does nothing. If I want to exit I have to do 3C+PH (saving the new frequency) or 4C and then 3C.

Let me tell you what I did. We are already in FUI and Mode 1 is set to a beacon or a strobe (it could be Mode 2,3,4 or 5):

C: Off->On (Mode 1)
3C+PH: Mode 1->Programming Mode (here we program the brightness)
4Crogramming Mode (here we program the brightness)->Programming Mode (here we program the frequency)

Now if I want to exit without saving, 3C doesn't work.
The part that doesn't work is in the red circle:





Does the same happen to you?

P.S.: 4C works in both directions, shouldn't it be like this (*Disclaimer: Note that this is not the original flowchart, I changed it a bit. If you want to download the original flowchart use the right link!*):



?


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## tygger (Jul 9, 2009)

Same here. 4C and then 3C to exit without saving. Or 3C+PH to save and exit from stobe/beacon frequency setting mode. BTW, I find the small instruction manual much easier to use than the flowchart.


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## BabyDoc (Jul 9, 2009)

tygger said:


> Lets hope they decide to make more R2's. Considering how fast they sold out there seems to be a big demand. Maybe Kuku could suggest another run of R2's to Liteflux?  After he gets some rest of course.


 
This should be good news for fans of the R2 who live in the US.
I just got this message from EliteLED:

Hi Bill,

I'm glad to inform you that LiteFlux made a special run on LF2XT with Cree XP-E R2 White LEDs (WH bin). The quantity is very limited, and the cost was much higher. We have them in stock just now. If you like white tint LEDs, it's the chance before they're gone.

http://www.eliteled.com/products/flashlights/liteflux-lf2xt-r2.html

Cheers!! 


Thanks,

EliteLED Sales
www.EliteLED.com


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## mr.snakeman (Jul 9, 2009)

I received my R2 WH today - only 5 days, not bad! I wonder where there are construction instructions and where I can obtain the rest of the parts to be able to construct the charger? If any one has managed to put one together, please post with pics. I would really appreciate any help any of you can give on this. Now that I own both 2XTs I find that the regular is a bit warm for my taste and the R2 WH is too cold (actually a bit green) for my taste also. I have tailstanded both close together on a totally white ceiling and get a beam color that i think is near ideal. Has anyone else tried this and, if so, does anyone have an idea what the eventual bin nr. would be?


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## KuKu427 (Jul 9, 2009)

Sorry! The construction instructions are here:
http://www.expandku.com/charger.html

5 days...new record! I usually average around 7
Please make sure you have proper knowledge of chargers, electronics, and Li Ion batteries before proceeding. 

Gee...that pic of the R2s on Elite's site looks amazing like mine if you photoshop the dealer name out... Must be my imagination...


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## bluewater (Jul 9, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> Sorry! The construction instructions are here:
> http://www.expandku.com/charger.html



Looks like I'll be sticking with my nano charger.


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## tygger (Jul 9, 2009)

Thanks for the heads up BabyDoc, just ordered one. BTW, does anyone know what type and size of pliers I need to tighten the LED module in the head? Mine has worked itself loose and the holes are very, very tiny. I've had to use a pencil eraser to screw it back in but I would like to tighten it properly.


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## AFAustin (Jul 9, 2009)

tygger said:


> Thanks for the heads up BabyDoc, just ordered one. BTW, does anyone know what type and size of pliers I need to tighten the LED module in the head? Mine has worked itself loose and the holes are very, very tiny. I've had to use a pencil eraser to screw it back in but I would like to tighten it properly.



You can find the pliers with very pointed ends at a hobby or craft store. I use some tweezers with pointed ends, but don't recall where I got them. 

I don't know if these have small enough tips, but you could PM Jay and get more info.: http://flashlightconnection.com/Flashlight-Tools-and-Supplies/Mini-Needle-Nose-Pliers-p46.html

Also, there were some posts early on in one of the long LF2XT threads (maybe this one!) about this. The point was made to not insert your pliers/tweezers into the tiny holes in the PCB, as this could stretch and break wires, but rather to use the small notches on the outside of the entire pill.


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## tygger (Jul 9, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> Also, there were some posts early on in one of the long LF2XT threads (maybe this one!) about this. The point was made to not insert your pliers/tweezers into the tiny holes in the PCB, as this could stretch and break wires, but rather to use the small notches on the outside of the entire pill.



Gotcha. Yeah, I wouldn't touch the PCB. I tightened it slightly with a large sewing needle using the pill notches on the side. Unfortunately ever since I noticed it was loose it has started to malfunction, not turning on, not turning off, etc. Even after a little tightening so it doesn't rattle, it still is not working properly. Sent elite an email about it. Anyone else have this problem?


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## juplin (Jul 9, 2009)

bluewater said:


> Looks like I'll be sticking with my nano charger.


The most difficult portions in the charger assembly instruction should be:


> Lower the charging current by replacing the resister indicated with one specified below. (protection & charger unit )
> 
> charge current select
> 0.33R --> 300mA
> 1.0R --> 100mA


The charge current select resistor shown in the photo is R330 which should correspond to the 0.33R resistor in the charger assembly instruction, and should be replaced with 1.0R resistor to accommodate the proper charging current of 100mA for 10440 Li-ion with 300 mAh capacity (i.e. proper charging current for Li-ion should be 1/2 * C or smaller, and it should be 1/2 * 300 = 150 mA or smaller for 10440).
The first question is what 0.33R and 1.0R stand for?
My best guesses are 330 ohms and 1000 ohms respectively, but still wait for confirmation by LiteFlux. 
The second question is that is it easy to de-solder this surface-mounted 0.33R resistor and then solder a new surface-mounted 1.0R resistor with a regular soldering-iron?


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## TooManyGizmos (Jul 9, 2009)

I'm pretty sure you will need a very low wattage - pencil style soldering iron for working on tiny electronics , so they don't overheat. Also a tiny tip is needed. Be sure to "tin" it with solder when new.

.


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## strinq (Jul 10, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


> Gee...that pic of the R2s on Elite's site looks amazing like mine if you photoshop the dealer name out... Must be my imagination...


 
Can't they take their own pics?...
Actually it looks amazingly like LEDCools pics...


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## HighLumens (Jul 10, 2009)

strinq said:


> Can't they take their own pics?...
> Actually it looks amazingly like LEDCools pics...


I had noticed it :shrug:


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## KuKu427 (Jul 10, 2009)

Actually, they look amazingly like these pix which was posted by Mountech, the mad scientist that resides deep within LF's factory. http://my3c.com/D5/viewthread.php?tid=8721&extra=page%3D2

The signature that appears on the limited edition card is Mountech's. 

The one that looks like mine is the one he deleted after I called him and asked him about it.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 10, 2009)

tygger said:


> Thanks for the heads up BabyDoc, just ordered one. BTW, does anyone know what type and size of pliers I need to tighten the LED module in the head? Mine has worked itself loose and the holes are very, very tiny. I've had to use a pencil eraser to screw it back in but I would like to tighten it properly.


I used just a pin to tighten mine,just alternate sides :thumbsup:


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## matrixshaman (Jul 10, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> This should be good news for fans of the R2 who live in the US.
> I just got this message from EliteLED:
> 
> Hi Bill,
> ...



I got that email too. I was planning on grabbing one of these but a couple things have changed my mind for now. First - EliteLED probably includes the USB charger that Liteflux says is included with this R2 bin but EliteLED does not say they include the charger so I'd need to know about that before ordering one. Also USB chargers are dirt cheap and that by itself is not enough to want to pay $75 for this light. And while I still consider this a sweet light for $75 it just doesn't fit the overall pricing of Liteflux in many ways. Most smaller lights are cheaper than bigger ones - sure this is their latest with an R2 bin but an R2 bin doesn't cost almost $20 more than a lower bin. Usually an R2 bin runs just a couple dollars more - maybe $3 or $4. Yet this is the most expensive light in their lineup. But possibly the biggest issue for me is the WH tint - not my favorite in a 'cool LED'. I prefer WC and find WH to be too yellow for my taste.


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## DHart (Jul 10, 2009)

I got that letter as well... and thought about it for a nansecond... but I'm so happy with the LF2XT I have and the tint/beam of it, that I decided buying another would result in having yet another light sitting around unused. SO, I spent the money on another Quark...a Q 123x2 which I will run with a 17650.

The next Liteflux I buy will be an updated AA model or an 18650 model, which ever comes first.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 10, 2009)

@ DHart yes 100% on a updated single AA liteflux,I'm very happy with the LF2XT as the tint is fine for my purpose but! bring on a AA light with the same features as LF2XTwith a higher output it'll be a winner IMO


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## DHart (Jul 10, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> @ DHart yes 100% on a updated single AA liteflux,I'm very happy with the LF2XT as the tint is fine for my purpose but! *bring on a AA light with the same features as LF2XTwith a higher output it'll be a winner IMO *


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## KuKu427 (Jul 10, 2009)




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## HKJ (Jul 10, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


>



Don't just whistle, come with something that is worth buying


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 10, 2009)

KuKu427 said:


>





HKJ said:


> Don't just whistle, come with something that is worth buying


+2 and a  :naughty:


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## HighLumens (Jul 10, 2009)

Video #2: FUI and programmation part 1.


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## BabyDoc (Jul 10, 2009)

matrixshaman said:


> I got that email too. I was planning on grabbing one of these but a couple things have changed my mind for now. First - EliteLED probably includes the USB charger that Liteflux says is included with this R2 bin but EliteLED does not say they include the charger so I'd need to know about that before ordering one. Also USB chargers are dirt cheap and that by itself is not enough to want to pay $75 for this light. And while I still consider this a sweet light for $75 it just doesn't fit the overall pricing of Liteflux in many ways. Most smaller lights are cheaper than bigger ones - sure this is their latest with an R2 bin but an R2 bin doesn't cost almost $20 more than a lower bin. Usually an R2 bin runs just a couple dollars more - maybe $3 or $4. Yet this is the most expensive light in their lineup. But possibly the biggest issue for me is the WH tint - not my favorite in a 'cool LED'. I prefer WC and find WH to be too yellow for my taste.


 
1+. I think a $15 premium for an R2 just isn't worth it to me. The color rendition of the original LF2XT is just great, and far better than any R2 I own, and far better than I expected when I ordered my lights. I know that a limited run of only 100 lights makes this more costly to produce, but to call this a limited edition would suggest some collectible value, which it doesn't have, at least in my opinion.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 10, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> 1+. I think a $15 premium for an R2 just isn't worth it to me. The color rendition of the original LF2XT is just great, and far better than any R2 I own, and far better than I expected when I ordered my lights. I know that a limited run of only 100 lights makes this more costly to produce, but to call this a limited edition would suggest some collectible value, which it doesn't have, at least in my opinion.


+1:devil:


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## TooManyGizmos (Jul 10, 2009)

At this point , a collectable edition would be an R2 in WC tint . (whitest of white)

Why is a WC tint so hard to obtain these days ?

Since some of us prefer that . ( the holy grail of LED )

At least in MY opinion .............. babydoctor

.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 10, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> Why is a WC tint so hard to obtain these days ?


Search


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## KuKu427 (Jul 10, 2009)

Wow... I didn't know some people felt that way about the price of the R2. As for the USB charger, it was not a factor at all when pricing the R2. It was thrown in a spur of the moment when I went to pick up my flashlights at LF. I mentioned the difficulties members had with obtaining a 10440 charger and LF just happened to have some spare boards and was nice enough to include them for free.

Actually, I thought you guys should stop blaming LiteFlux over the R2. Please direct any criticism at me. I'm the one that decided to call it the Limited Edition. I thought a one time run of the R2 WH bin with higher output would justify the limited edition name. If it doesn't then please tell me what would? TMG's post about the WC tint is noted.

As for the AA, I've already spoken with LF about it and they are aware of the demand for an up-to-date light in something bigger than AAA.


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## DHart (Jul 10, 2009)

KuKu... it sounds like you have as much (or more) influence on the decision makers at Liteflux as anyone and I really commend you for your wonderful job of spearheading for Liteflux and facilitating feedback for future projects... you are a wonderful asset to Liteflux and to us!

In answer to your question... you already know this, but I'll mention it again.

I think a AA size light with the UI and possibly the same exterior design of the LF2XT, with an XP-E R2 emitter, and 14500 capable would be a big hit.

As well, I think an 18650 light, again with the UI and perhaps same design as the LF2XT, would also be a huge hit... both would sell to me, anyway! For sure. I'd hit this button in a hurry....


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## Flying Turtle (Jul 10, 2009)

tygger said:


> Gotcha. Yeah, I wouldn't touch the PCB. I tightened it slightly with a large sewing needle using the pill notches on the side. Unfortunately ever since I noticed it was loose it has started to malfunction, not turning on, not turning off, etc. Even after a little tightening so it doesn't rattle, it still is not working properly. Sent elite an email about it. Anyone else have this problem?



When I was initially messing with mine I found you could tighten the pill too much, and it wouldn't make good contact. I ended up using one of the o-rings (per Juplin's suggestion, I think) between the pill and the reflector. 

Geoff


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## KuKu427 (Jul 10, 2009)

DHart said:


> I really commend you for your wonderful job of spearheading for Liteflux and facilitating feedback for future projects... you are a wonderful asset to Liteflux and to us!


 
Thank you very much DHart. I'm just trying to give people what they want and I consider myself lucky to have LiteFlux helping me to provide it.


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## strinq (Jul 10, 2009)

DHart said:


> I think a AA size light with the UI and possibly the same exterior design of the LF2XT, with an XP-E R2 emitter, and 14500 capable would be a big hit.


 
No no no! XP-G! XP-G!


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## regulator (Jul 10, 2009)

TooManyGizmos said:


> At this point , a collectable edition would be an R2 in WC tint . (whitest of white)
> 
> Why is a WC tint so hard to obtain these days ?
> 
> ...


 
This is probably my favorite tint Cree also. Every light that I have received with this bin has been abosutely white without any green,blue or yellow to it. Maybe I have been lucky but it seems when this tint is specified, I have gotten pretty consistant results.

Unfortunately I do not care for warm tints and is a reason I would not make a purchase at this point. I do see the benifits in a "natural" or "neutral" tint and would think this would be a better choice. A neutral tint brings out colors but does not seem yellow until compared to a cool tint. It is a good balance. I comparison that comes to mind is the Rebel emitter. The one labeld as cool actually looks warm next to a Cree WC and is a nice vanilla.


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## StandardBattery (Jul 10, 2009)

strinq said:


> No no no! XP-G! XP-G!


+1 that would be a very good start. That would make the light really interesting, as it should be able to offer incredible runtime/performance in AA form factor.

Maybe now that they have addressed the CUI mode (it's quite nice for what it does), maybe they could look at the FUI. The HDS/Novatac interaface still kills LF in my opinion, and they don't need 2 interfaces.

However, the CUI is very good, and has the potential for a very wide appeal (wider than programmable interface). So LF's two interface modes should stay as a distinguishing feature, just make them both top-notch.

I like the LF5-XT's body style, no need to make the AA version the same as all the other AA lights or the LF2-XT. I would drop the crenulated bezel for just a smooth, maybe beveled, design.

Timing could be right for an AA LiteFlux with an XP-G, even if we have to wait a couple (maybe 3) months. Better than rushing a new one out right now. 

Definetly looking forward to whatever light LiteFlux makes next. :twothumbs


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## StandardBattery (Jul 10, 2009)

tygger said:


> Gotcha. Yeah, I wouldn't touch the PCB. I tightened it slightly with a large sewing needle using the pill notches on the side. Unfortunately ever since I noticed it was loose it has started to malfunction, not turning on, not turning off, etc. Even after a little tightening so it doesn't rattle, it still is not working properly. Sent elite an email about it. Anyone else have this problem?


 
I think if you check the tailcap you will find it has worked itself just a little loose. That's enough to make it very erratic. The head is actually quite foregiving in terms of absolute tightness. It seems like with the clip attached the way it is it is quite easy during normal use to loosen the tail. For this light, that uses the cylinder for the switch signal path, this causes operational failure. It may not look like it's loose, but give it i little twist you will see. Use a rubber to twist it tight, otherwise you might twist the clip.


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## gadgetnerd (Jul 11, 2009)

Hi all. I haven't posted on CPF for a while but took delivery of an LF2XT yesterday via Khoo and have been moved to say something about it: IMHO this is not just the best AAA light ever made; it's the best LiteFlux light ever made; and quite possibly one of the best LED lights full stop! It's instantly found a home in my pocket, and I'll be ordering another one just to have one more.

I know I'm preaching to the choir, but here's my thoughts anyway...

Interface: The ultimate in flexibility. You can pretty much roll-your-own UI if you want. LiteFlux have really refined the UI until it literally shines. 

Build quality: Outstanding. Perfectly finished and assembled.

Beam quality: Perfect and artifact free. Great low, and plenty bright enough on high.

Beam tint: A revelation. Finally a warm (neutral) tint in an inexpensive torch. It really looks like a little bit of afternoon sunlight compared to the actinic tints of most of my LED torches.

Aesthetics: Very easy on the eye! I have to admit the LF5XT was a bit of a dog. The LF3XT looked a bit nicer, but the LF2XT has hit the sweet spot. 

Of course there are a few drawbacks: the manual is simply atrocious; the whine is actually quite audible (and I've got 40 year old ears and play in a band); and the PWM is noticeable if you are flicking your eyes around an area illuminated by the LF2XT. And of course a couple of UI quirks. 

But all in all the quality of construction, and obvious care and thought that went into the UI, are simply incredible in a $60 torch, and speak of a innovative manufacturer who actually listens to what users want. 

With each release LiteFlux seems to edge closer towards the perfect torch. I can't wait for the LF4XT, here's hoping it's an AA torch with the interface, perfect beam and tint of the LF2XT (but no PWM or whine), and the looks of a D10. A man can dream!


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## Abyssos (Jul 11, 2009)

Got my LF2XT a couple of days ago. It was much smaller than I have thought it would be. The module was loose in the head and rattled when I was unscrewing the head to install the battery. I tried tightening with a couple of needles but it appeared to have backed out again when I was changing the battery. I will need to buy a twizzer to torque it properly. Liteflux should have designed it better.

Aside from what I mentioned above and the whining (this is the only whiner in my flashlight collection and is quite annoying), I am impressed with the light. The beam is perfect, the tint is growing on me, the CUI is good, and the electronic like switch is usable. And one more minor complaint, the clip is fragile.

Like others have mentioned, an AA version like the LF2XT would be great with less whining and a better clip. I would be ready to hit the add to cart button.


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

Ok, some comments after a few days with the light. Got them from Khoo who shipped it very fast.

1. My light does produce a high frequency whine too BUT it is only noticeable when i hold it right next to my ear. Even in a really quiet environment I cannot hear it even when its not right beside my ear. Some ppl have been complaining about the whine, I guess maybe it varies from unit to unit. 

2. I'm using it as a keychain light and I handle my keys pretty roughly as in I toss them on the table after use, put them in my tight pockets etc. So far, there's not even a tiny scratch on the body of the light.

3. The interior of the glass is a little dusty with a pretty large spec visible to the naked eye when the light is turned on BUT again there was no effect whatsoever on the beam. I still want to clean it though, just can't accept it there lol.

4. The UI has been great so far. I've set mine to tactical on, ODP on, 3 modes - med,low,high. Strobe on. Would have prefered low,med,high though. Is that possible? Brightness set at 100%. Tactical on because most of the time i use it when i want to quick check something. Just don't really like the flash before it fully comes on when i want it on permanantly but it's a very small matter.

5. This is my first neutral emitter and i'm still getting use to it. I think I prefer a white tint though. The beam is still extremely pleasant to the eye, with a 'just nice' hotspot that doesn't blind you when u do close up stuff and wide wide spill. I don't really care if this light throw far, it's not meant for that. 

6. The output still isn't enough for me (but still very good for a light of this size) since i'm using eneloops so i'll be getting 10440's soon. I've been spoilt by high powered lights. The 0% is crazy low...only useful in pitch dark situations. Does it really literally double its output with 10440's? If it does then...wow...

7. Everyone has commented that the light is aesthetically pleasing. Looks rugged and artful at the same time. I think the size is really good too, any smaller and it would be hard to grasp especially with all the keys in the way. Any bigger and it would be uncomfortable to carry around. 

8. The Mentholatum lip balm cover fits it perfectly as a diffuser but i'm guessing it won't be of much use to me (I already had the lip balm before i ordered the light  )

So again, is it possible to programme it to low-med-high?


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## gadgetnerd (Jul 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> So again, is it possible to programme it to low-med-high?



Yes:

1 - Switch to the FUI with 5 clicks (5C) + press hold (PH)

2 - 6C + PH to get to the mode number menu. 3C to set it to 3 modes (it should be blinking in groups of 3, then 3C + PH to save this setting

3 - 7C+PH to disable memory, so it always comes on at mode 1

4 - Turn torch off then on, so it's in mode 1

5 - 3C + PH to enter brightness menu. 2C to lower brightness (or 1C to increase it). Once you're happy, 3C + PH to save setting.

6 - Repeat step 5 for the next two levels

You should have a nice l-m-h setup in about 5 minutes!


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## tygger (Jul 11, 2009)

Flying Turtle said:


> When I was initially messing with mine I found you could tighten the pill too much, and it wouldn't make good contact. I ended up using one of the o-rings (per Juplin's suggestion, I think) between the pill and the reflector.
> 
> Geoff



Thanks Geoff, problem solved! I used one of the spare LF2XT O-rings between the pill and reflector and its working properly now. So glad my LF2XT is back in action.


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

Ah thanks a lot gadgetnerd.
Now that I know that the LF2XT's FUI is really extremely programmable, I think nothing beats it's UI now...
Hands down it has the best UI of any light in the market (in my light vocab which is a little limited  ).

Just set mine to Med>High>Low at 23%>100%>1%

I'm content...for now....


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## gadgetnerd (Jul 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> I'm content...for now....



I reckon you'll be content for quite a while


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

Heheh...that remains to be seen. Still need some time to see what i really need out of a keychain light since this is my first time using one.
I might continue to meddle with it till i find the right setting.

Really need the 10440 batts...crazily curious on how bright it'll be...darn it...


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 11, 2009)

I have mine set thus:

low 1%
low 7%
med 20%
med 35%
high 60%

I find this covers most of my lighting needs set this way I always have low,low come on first for night treks to the bathroom,I didn't feel the need to set a max as that is always on hand with press and hold "momentary high" no matter what level I'm on, and also I have no strobe set either as the random strobe is at hand with 2xc+ph 

memory off, ODP on

IMHO the LF2XT has the best UI of all the lights I've owned including the Ra and novatacs :tinfoil: and my LF3XT complements the LF2XT very well all I need now is a AA updated liteflux and that's me set for small lights I wont be looking at any others for now

[edit]@string with 10440 it's twice as bright.


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> [edit]@string with 10440 it's twice as bright.


 
Now you're making me even more impatient for my batts to arrive...


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> Now you're making me even more impatient for my batts to arrive...


Just bear in mind the whine is a little more noticeable using 10440's but! it really doesn't bother me that much


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

That's making me more curious.
Like I mentioned above, I can't hear the whine unless it's like 3cm max from my ear. 
What's ur rough judgement? Does the level of the whine increase 2x also? If it does then i highly doubt it'll bother me.
AFAIK I have normal hearing, not impaired lol.


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## HKJ (Jul 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> Now you're making me even more impatient for my batts to arrive...



You risk being disappointed, twice as bright is not very much more light.

I have made beamshots with it, both on NiMH and LiIon here:

http://www.lygte-info.dk/review/Beamshoot AAA comparison UK.html

NiMH and LiIon, both underexposed:


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> What's ur rough judgement? Does the level of the whine increase 2x also? If it does then i highly doubt it'll bother me.
> AFAIK I have normal hearing, not impaired lol.


 haha! yes with my hearing aid set to max it's about 2x :devil:

J/K I have perfect hearing


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

No worries HKJ, I'm quite satisfied by ur beamshot, it does show quite an increase in brightness.
I didn't expect it to be visually 2x brighter, more like 30-50%. But a ceilling bounce test would make me happy haha.


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## Creecher (Jul 11, 2009)

Mine whines more with a AAA at about 80% brightness than with thw 10440 battery so it must vary unit to unit. With the 10440 the whine is so high pitched it goes out of range.

I have a question that I can't find an answer for here apart from the ODP and auto shutdown do not both work at the same time. I put a brand new 10440 rechargeable in a few days ago and left the torch on high on the nightstand. After a few minutes it began to dim and I thought this was the shutdown process. It didn't shut down and when I took a battery reading it was 0.6v, so neither the ODP or auto-off worked and a battery drained almost completely in less than 5 ninutes.

The light was then stuck in a type of moon mode and would not ramp up or down or change brightness. This morning the cell measures 3.14v. What caused it to drain so fast, and then look fine and why didn't the light shut down or cut out?


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

One minute, you said after u took out the batts it was at 0.6V.
Then the next morning it went back up to 3.14v? Did u recharge it?

If not, how can it be?


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## HKJ (Jul 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> But a ceilling bounce test would make me happy haha.



The output bar graphs in my beamshots are made with ceiling bounce and a lightmeter. The output is not twice on LiIon, but more like 190% of NiMH.


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## jahxman (Jul 11, 2009)

Creecher said:


> I have a question that I can't find an answer for here apart from the ODP and auto shutdown do not both work at the same time. I put a brand new 10440 rechargeable in a few days ago and left the torch on high on the nightstand. After a few minutes it began to dim and I thought this was the shutdown process. It didn't shut down and when I took a battery reading it was 0.6v, so neither the ODP or auto-off worked and a battery drained almost completely in less than 5 ninutes.
> 
> The light was then stuck in a type of moon mode and would not ramp up or down or change brightness. This morning the cell measures 3.14v. What caused it to drain so fast, and then look fine and why didn't the light shut down or cut out?


 
Sounds like something is funny with that cell. Did you confirm that ODP is on?

I have done some runtime tests with 10440s and not seen anything similar, other than seeing a cell recover from a lower voltage when hot back to a higher one after cooling down for a bit.

Here's a graph of how my LF2XT did on a 340 mAh 10440 (timescale in minutes):


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

Hmmm, there's something funny about my lite, not sure if its a regular feature.

I tried 3 sets of regular NiMH 600mA and 1 eneloop.
I have the ODP on.

On turbo, the 3 warning flashes came very fast, as fast as 1 minute after turning it on.
Then it came intermittently for about 10 minutes before the 15 flash and then went off.
Is this normal?


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## AFAustin (Jul 11, 2009)

jahxman said:


> Sounds like something is funny with that cell. Did you confirm that ODP is on?
> 
> I have done some runtime tests with 10440s and not seen anything similar, other than seeing a cell recover from a lower voltage when hot back to a higher one after cooling down for a bit.
> 
> Here's a graph of how my LF2XT did on a 340 mAh 10440 (timescale in minutes):



jahxman, am I reading your graph correctly---<13 min. regulated on max? If so, that seems odd---selfbuilt got between 28 and 45 min. on his 3 units: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235929


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## HighLumens (Jul 11, 2009)

HKJ said:


> You risk being disappointed, twice as bright is not very much more light.


I agree with you totally. My settings are:

Min (0.2%?)->10%->50%->100%->beacon

from Min to 10% the difference is huge, from 10% to 50% the difference is quite noticeable, from 50% to 100% the difference is little. Anyway I haven't tried the difference between the settings in outdoor so I don't know how better the light throws.



strinq said:


> Then it came intermittently for about 10 minutes before the 15 flash and then went off.
> Is this normal?


In selfbuilt's review we talked about how the LF2XT warns us that it's going to shut down. Mine does 18 flashes and then turns off.


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## JohnF (Jul 11, 2009)

I just received my LF2XT R2 Natural 'Limited Edition' from KuKu yesterday.

My old LF2 SSC P4 remains a favorite for camping / traveling as its floody beam and relative lack of hotspot makes it great for walking and reading, and as a work light.

My LF2X Cree will be sent away as a gift for one of my nephews.

The new XT will be in my pocket most every day. The beam shape and tint are beyond my expectations, hard to fault in any way. I didn't realize how tiny that R2 emitter is. Using 10440 it is bright and white. The LF2X was bright, just not white enough for my liking (too cool), so is out the door.

Now, off to learn the UI...

John F


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> I agree with you totally. My settings are:
> 
> Min (0.2%?)->10%->50%->100%->beacon
> 
> ...


 
Yeah that's why i use it at 1%, 23% and 100%. 
0.2% is too low for me, even for reading a book in almost total darkness its not very comfortable. 

Anyways, i get it that there are warnings before it goes off. But mine has a warning like a whole 10 minutes before the 15 flash final warning. That's strange to me...1 or 2 minutes i get it but a whole 10 minutes?


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## jahxman (Jul 11, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> jahxman, am I reading your graph correctly---<13 min. regulated on max? If so, that seems odd---selfbuilt got between 28 and 45 min. on his 3 units: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/235929


 
Yes, you are reading it correctly. About 13 minutes until it dropped out of regulation, and about 22 until ODP kicked in. I have a couple R2's on the way, I will test with them also to see if my Q4 is behaving very differently. Keep in mind that my runtime graph is not measuring lux; just mA off a solar cell, which does not have a linear relationship to light output. I have now purchased a lux meter, so future recordings will be recording actual light output in lux.

It's also worth noting that the outside of the LF2XT's bezel reached 145 degrees F (60 degrees C) during this test. During a simlar test with the LF2X it reached 160 degrees! So possibly heat was a factor, not sure.

In the review of the light here: http://light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf2_xt/ mev got 22 minutes to 50% with a 10440 340mAh AW unprotected cell, same as I used. I got 22 minutes until ODP kicked in.

In selfbuilt's review he doesn't give the mAh capacity of the 10440 he is using - maybe it's a much higher capacity than the 340mAh?

I have a couple Ultrafire 500mAh and 600mAh 10440's, maybe if I have time this weekend I'll do a runtime test with them, measuring lux output.


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## Lermite (Jul 11, 2009)

My own runtime test:




10440 is a Trustfire "600 mAh" but it's real capacity is below 300 mAh.
AAA is a GP Recycko+ 900 mAh.


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## AFAustin (Jul 11, 2009)

jahxman and Lermite,

Thanks for your graphs and your comments. I went back and checked selfbuilt's review, and this is what he said about his 10440 performance: 



> And I am frankly stunned by how long my AW 10440 Li-ion batteries last in these lights (again, protected thanks to the light's low voltage cut-off feature). There was a bit variability in output/runtime between two batches of 10440s in my collection (both purchased in 2007 and barely used), so YMMV.


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## JohnF (Jul 11, 2009)

*Identify the emitters*

3 LF2's, one of them new (hint, and mandatory LF2XT content). Can you identify the emitters and models?


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## Lermite (Jul 11, 2009)

*Re: Identify the emitters*



JohnF said:


> 3 LF2's, one of them new (hint, and mandatory LF2XT content). Can you identify the emitters and models?


The LF2XT with its XP-E is at the bottom right. Upper is the LF2X with a XR-E Q5 emitter. On the left is the older LF2 with a SSC U emitter.


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## JohnF (Jul 11, 2009)

Too easy, eh. Good work.

Could LiteFlux have ideally made the reflector better fit the XP-E (R2)? Smaller hole in the base?


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## DHart (Jul 11, 2009)

JohnF said:


> Too easy, eh. Good work.
> 
> Could LiteFlux have ideally made the reflector better fit the XP-E (R2)? Smaller hole in the base?



Good point... the reflector was probably spec'd for use with an XR-E emitter and then decision to use the XP-E emitter came at the last minute?


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## Nake (Jul 11, 2009)

DHart said:


> Good point... the reflector was probably spec'd for use with an XR-E emitter and then decision to use the XP-E emitter came at the last minute?


 
I don'tthink so, the hole is too small to fit over the ring or the dome of a Cree. It is probably made that way to put the XP-E into the correct focal point for the shape of that reflector.


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## DHart (Jul 11, 2009)

Nake said:


> I don'tthink so, the hole is too small to fit over the ring or the dome of a Cree.



Yes, you are right! On closer observation, I see that the hole is too small for an XR-E. 

I sure do love the XP-E emitter vs the XR-E... I have two lights now with the XP-E (LF2XT and Quark) and the beams they each put out are fantastic! It's a lot more difficult to get that clean, ring-free beam with an XR-E emitter (even though Liteflux showed it could be done with the LF3XT!)


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## Nake (Jul 11, 2009)

What LiteFlux did with the LF3XT is stipple the hell out of the reflector to get rid of the Cree ring. That can be done with any reflector to get a smooth beam, but a lot of output is lost. I put an McR17 into my LF3XT and gained 30lm according to my lightbox. 

Another example are the 4 die emitters that give a donut hole, the same can be done with those reflectors, but a lot of output is lost. This is based on my experimenting.


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## DHart (Jul 12, 2009)

Nake said:


> What LiteFlux did with the LF3XT is stipple the hell out of the reflector to get rid of the Cree ring. That can be done with any reflector to get a smooth beam, but a lot of output is lost. I put an McR17 into my LF3XT and gained 30lm according to my lightbox.
> 
> Another example are the 4 die emitters that give a donut hole, the same can be done with those reflectors, but a lot of output is lost. This is based on my experimenting.



A ha! Well.. I really like the resulting beam they got and don't mind giving up some output to achieve it. Perhaps with their upcoming lights they can use the XP-E to get a clean beam without needing so much stippling to get there!


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## JohnF (Jul 12, 2009)

Nake said:


> What LiteFlux did with the LF3XT is stipple the hell out of the reflector to get rid of the Cree ring. That can be done with any reflector to get a smooth beam, but a lot of output is lost. I put an McR17 into my LF3XT and gained 30lm according to my lightbox.
> 
> Another example are the 4 die emitters that give a donut hole, the same can be done with those reflectors, but a lot of output is lost. This is based on my experimenting.



Although the picture doesn't show it, the stippling on the reflector of the XT is finer, yet the beam is so much cleaner than the X. The reflector on the LF2 Seoul is so much shallower than the later iterations it probably doesn't need as much stippling, as it just doesn't attempt to focus as much.

Have I mentioned how much I like the beam of the original LF2 w/Seoul? 

I dropped the new R2 XT on the concrete driveway tonight, so it is properly broken-in with a bit of the natural finish gone and a small dent near the front lens. Still working perfectly, kind of glad it happened so soon, now I don't have to worry about it and can carry daily without worry.

John F


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## Armed_Forces (Jul 12, 2009)

..all I got to say is,




*This is one [email protected] little mofo!*









..actually it would be a disservice to leave it at that so;



It's friggin' TINY! My ham sized fists couldn't handle anything smaller. 
I "splurged" on the R2 WH from KuKu (Steve) and all I can do is . 
It damn near matches my D10 in output!
..and man is that tint nice. 


The more dough I spend on lights, the more I realize that getting premium tints is worth every penny. 
When the cooler bins are "right" they look great.
I guess what makes the difference is cherry picking them. :devil: 


I've only got two things I'd change to make it perfect.

1. The clip is too flimsy! 

I believe a simple fix would be to make it out of thicker gauge wire. 
Normally this is a big deal for me on a larger light, but because this light is so small, I don't think I'll be using the clip.  
I'm tempted to key chain carry it but I'm not sure at the moment. 
The number of lights I'm carrying is getting ridiculous, but I'll figure out something! lol

2. The On/Off switch spring is too soft. Too easy to press. 


*That's a pretty short list!* ..and borderline nitpicking. 

The build quality is superb. 
Fit/finish is extremely high with tight tolerances.
LED perfectly centered. 
You would be hard pressed to build a light any better.


The user interface is as simple or as complicated as you want it.
The good thing it is very intuitive in CUI, but that FUI is something else!
I flow chart indeed! That's just crazy, but I can see how the gadget obsessed youngsters will absolutely love it.
Right now I'm content with the CUI. 


As a bonus, I've got a cool little battery charger project I'm going to build thanks to the DIY USB charger kit. 
Very nice of KuKu/LightFlux to add this. 
It's gonna be sleek and tiny to match the light! 

Later peeps...


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## KuKu427 (Jul 12, 2009)

Armed_Forces said:


> As a bonus, I've got a cool little battery charger project I'm going to build thanks to the DIY USB charger kit.
> Very nice of KuKu/LightFlux to add this.
> It's gonna be sleek and tiny to match the light!


 
:twothumbs I'd love to see some pix when you're finished with it!


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## Creecher (Jul 12, 2009)

strinq said:


> One minute, you said after u took out the batts it was at 0.6V.
> Then the next morning it went back up to 3.14v? Did u recharge it?
> 
> If not, how can it be?


 
No, the battery wasn't recharged. I've done the test with 2 other Ultrafire unprotected rechargeable 600mAh 10440 batteries and the same thing happens. After a few minutes the light dims and then becomes stuck in a sort of moon mode and can't be switched off without loosening the head.

The cells are hot and measure around 1v, then climb back to around 3v. I didn't have the manual with me to check if ODP was on, but if it wasn't then auto shutdown should have kicked in, and if it was on, the torch should have shut down anyway.


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## jahxman (Jul 12, 2009)

Creecher said:


> The cells are hot and measure around 1v, then climb back to around 3v. I didn't have the manual with me to check if ODP was on, but if it wasn't then auto shutdown should have kicked in, and if it was on, the torch should have shut down anyway.


 
What auto shutdown are you referring to, other then ODP?


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## Creecher (Jul 12, 2009)

jahxman said:


> What auto shutdown are you referring to, other then ODP?


 
The three minute auto off.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 12, 2009)

Creecher said:


> The three minute auto off.


Ah here lays the problem,I recall from the Doc in a earlier post :


[qoute]from BabyDoc the ODP with the LF2XT does not work if you have the auto/off feature enabled.


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## Armed_Forces (Jul 12, 2009)

KuKu, (or anybody)

Please link or post the pics/directions/schematic for the DIY battery charger.
It seems you've taken them down from your site?


I also can't find any discussion of this charger kit here or on the .net.

Has nobody built one yet???


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## Creecher (Jul 12, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Ah here lays the problem,I recall from the Doc in a earlier post :
> 
> 
> [qoute]from BabyDoc the ODP with the LF2XT does not work if you have the auto/off feature enabled.


 
Agreed, it's on the flowchart that auto/off takes precedence over ODP, but neither work if they're both enabled. The torch just runs a fully charged cell to less than 1V in about 5 minutes. The cell recovers to an extent after being left for a while. With AAA there is no problem.

I have 2 LF2XTs. This occurs only with the black one. The two are actually completely different in beam characteristics. The black one has an almost yellow tint to the beam and no discernable hotspot, the natural one has a much brighter, whiter beam with a definite hotspot. I didn't realise there was so much variation. In fact I'm wondering if the black one may have a problem.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 12, 2009)

Creecher all I can say it doesn't seem right selfbuilt has three and all were over 25mins on max before the ODP flashes


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## Creecher (Jul 12, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Creecher all I can say it doesn't seem right selfbuilt has three and all were over 25mins on max before the ODP flashes


 
A little more research and double checking to be done I think, just to make sure. I've tried 'stretching' the cells by using and charging to see if they arrived only partially charged. I'll see if that makes a difference.

Anyone else noticed a big variation in beam from one LF3 to the next? They're both nice beams but so different as to be another make of torch.


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## BabyDoc (Jul 12, 2009)

Creecher said:


> ....Agreed, it's on the flowchart that auto/off takes precedence over ODP, but neither work if they're both enabled. ...


 
Actually, the auto/off WILL work if both Auto/off and ODP are enabled. The trouble is the ODP won't work. Even after disabling the auto/off, you have to disable and re-enable the ODP to make it work again.


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## KuKu427 (Jul 12, 2009)

Armed_Forces said:


> KuKu, (or anybody)
> 
> Please link or post the pics/directions/schematic for the DIY battery charger.
> It seems you've taken them down from your site?


 
They should still be there at
www.expandku.com/charger.html
Let me know if that doesn't work.


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## DM51 (Jul 13, 2009)

Continued...


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