# My Quick Fenix P1 Review



## this_is_nascar (Jun 1, 2006)

When you consider the cost of the P1, I'm really impressed with its performance. Outside of the L2P, the regulation of the other Fenix lights was poor in my opinion. In some instances, one could question whether the light was regulated at all. That's not the case with the P1. The P1 has nice regulation, a great tint, good beam and is lightweight. It's about the least complicated single CR123 cell light out there right now. You twist it on and twist it off. It doesn't get easier than that. Although I'd love to see a 2-stage switching mechanism in the P1, I don't consider it a requirement due to the long runtime coming from a small, bright, lightweight package. I'd like to thank 4sevens for making these lights available, as well as his quick shipping and customer support.

I may have received a ringer, but I'm not complaining. I have (2) more of these lights coming my way.







Additionally, I think I'm one of the few who actually like the included belt sheath. It's as small as it can possibly be and also follows the K.I.S.S. approach. The light is easily accessible, but firmly held within the sheath as well. Even more importantly, my FF-II and FF-III lights fit great in them.

For those of you looking for a great sheath for your FireFly, spend the $45 for this sheath.......... and oh, by the way, you'll get a pretty nice light inlcluded.

*Update #1:* Here's the runtime test using an AW R123 cell, fresh off the charger, as soon as the light turned green. Voltage, without load, was 4.05 volts. Initial brightness was off the scale. This light is extremely bright using an R123 cell. Note how the light just stopped, I'm assuming, due to the battery low-voltage protection circuit. Once I noticed the light turned off, I measured voltage and it was 0.00 volts. I have the cell charging in the Nano charger now and I'll check voltage once the green light comes back on.






*Update #2:* Because I'm really liking this P1, I thought it would interesting to post a runtime chart which compares it to some other popular 1x123 lights. All of these tests were performed using a SureFire CR123 cell. My 2nd P1 arrived earlier today and it's on the meter now.






*Update #3:* Here's the plot that has the 2nd P1 plotted. It was a bit brighter (not noticable to the eyes), with slightly less runtime as expected.






*Update #4:* I'm discovering the P1 doesn't need much juice to fire. So far, I've gotten (2) P1's to fire on as little at .97 volts. For me and the way I use a light, this is fantastic news. The ability to see some level of light, even though very dim, is good in an emergency situation. Try to do that on the more function/feature rich lights on the market.

*Update #5:* I'm now in the possesion of (4) P1's. Three of the are original/stock units and the the other has been modded with a U-Binned emitter. I thought I'd share the runtimes.


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## Chao (Jun 1, 2006)

Thanks for the graph! I like the real flat regulation and you got 145 min regulation with SF battery, this really better than with Sanyo CR123A (around 100 min) according to Chevrofreak's test. Now, I am thinking to get a P1.


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## Cmoore (Jun 1, 2006)

I too think the Fenix P1 is a very good light for the money. It takes any kind of 123 battery and provides good output. Although I frequently use rechargeables, I like a primary 123 for this light. It's plenty bright with a primary and has excellent run-time with great regulation. 

Simple, works well with all types of 123 batteries and is inexpensive -- my kind of light!


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## jar3ds (Jun 1, 2006)

why kind of beam does it kick out?

is it floody like a L4/L2 ? U2 like? HDS like? Fenix like? 

flood vs. throw.... how does it rate? Thanks TIN!


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 1, 2006)

Similar flood area to the FF-III, with a smaller hotspot. FF-III is noticably brighter than P1, but the coverage area is as I described.


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## buba (Jun 1, 2006)

Nice review, thank you. I also agree with the sheath comments, it also fits the L2P head/CR123 body combo perfectly. 

I did cut off the sheaths plastic ring and replace it with a SS twisty keyring from flashlightlens.com. Its smaller and fits my applications (secure to packs) better than the plastic.


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 3, 2006)

I've posted my RCR123 runtime results on Post #1.


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## chevrofreak (Jun 3, 2006)

this_is_nascar said:


> When you consider the cost of the P1, I'm really impressed with its performance. Outside of the L2P, the regulation of the other Fenix lights was poor in my opinion. In some instances, one could question whether the light was regulated at all.


 

I dont recall Fenix ever claiming any of their lights except the L2P were regulated.


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## Planterz (Jun 3, 2006)

jar3ds said:


> why kind of beam does it kick out?
> 
> is it floody like a L4/L2 ? U2 like? HDS like? Fenix like?
> 
> flood vs. throw.... how does it rate? Thanks TIN!


Beam is inbetween HDS and McLux III PD. My Fire~Fly III has a brighter sidespill and broader hotspot (but nowhere near L2/L4 floody).


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## KAM (Jun 3, 2006)

How bright is it on a primary?
Could someone compare it to HDS EDC 42 or E1L?

Thanks
Kam


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## IsaacHayes (Jun 3, 2006)

Just like the ArcAAA, regulation on a single cell would create a huge current demand from one cell, and runtime would be very short. That's why with 3v 123a, or 2xAA you can have regulation, as you don't have to boost the voltage as much, so the demand from the cell is less.


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## helios (Jun 3, 2006)

Mine came with a tritium vial but it is not machined for it.
Anyone else get a tritium vial?


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## chevrofreak (Jun 4, 2006)

I ran the black P1 on a SureFire cell and did get an improved runtime, but not as much as you did TIN.


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## 4sevens (Jun 4, 2006)

helios said:


> Mine came with a tritium vial but it is not machined for it.
> Anyone else get a tritium vial?



err.. did you order a tritium vial? If not, did you order from me?
I hope that vial wasn't destined for someone else. oops.


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## helios (Jun 4, 2006)

Sorry Nascar, not trying to hijack your thread.

In fact, I ordered rechargables for my P1 after seeing your runtime plots. Thanks!

4sevens, I did order it from you. I'll pop it in an envelope and mail it back to you, just PM me your address. It's just sitting in a square plastic case gently giving off radiation right now.


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 5, 2006)

Post #1 has been updated with additional comparision data.


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## Solstice (Jun 5, 2006)

WOW- I would never expect a light such as this to trounce the venerable McLux PD in regulated runtime! I must say, your new comparison graph really makes me look at the P1 in a new light. Perhaps I'll pick one up on B/S/T when the price is right.


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 5, 2006)

Yes, I know the P1 is foreign made.
Yes, I know the P1 doesn't have that finely crafted "touch" that we're used to seeing in other products.
Yes, the consistency of the P1's seem to be questionable by some reports.
Yes, the long term survival rate of the P1 is not yet know.

HOWEVER........... when I see a light that has such a small footprint, is relatively inexpensive, runs for at least 2-hours on a standard CR123 cell, is capable of using R123 cells and has flat regulation, I get a chubby. I really don't understand why a 2-stage switch wasn't implemented, however for what you get in the P1, it's not a deal-breaker for me.


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## Solstice (Jun 5, 2006)

this_is_nascar said:


> ...I get a chubby.



LOL 

a BIT too much information .

Perhaps the 2 stage wasn't implemented so that Fenix can later release the "P1T" which is basically the same light with 2 stages, and a body that is *just* different enough so that everyone will have to buy the light over again. Fenix seems to have inherited a marketing strategy from Nintendo (Gameboy Advance, Advance SP, Micro, DS, DS lite).


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 5, 2006)

Solstice said:


> LOL
> 
> a BIT too much information .
> 
> Perhaps the 2 stage wasn't implemented so that Fenix can later release the "P1T" which is basically the same light with 2 stages, and a body that is *just* different enough so that everyone will have to buy the light over again. Fenix seems to have inherited a marketing strategy from Nintendo (Gameboy Advance, Advance SP, Micro, DS, DS lite).



I was thinking that same thing, but didn't want to say it. I'm glad you did. Although I commend Fenix for getting products out the door quickly, it pisses people off when they drop $50 or so only to find out a newer/better "version" of their same light is released in a quick time period.

In my case, I use 2-stage lights differently than others here do. Whereas most people want the low mode for reading, checking the kids at night, etc, I only wanted a low mode on those lights that have pretty crappy runtime on high. I used the low-mode as a "battery saving" feature, not for brightness control. If I need lower light, I can cover the opening to stop some of the light from coming out. In the case of the P1, a 2-hour runtime (perfectly regulated) is awesome in today's world of lights, even the customs. Try to name lights that will run this bright for 2-hours. You'll be hard-pressed to find them.

All that being said, I'd still like a low mode in the P1.


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 5, 2006)

Solstice said:


> LOL
> 
> a BIT too much information .
> 
> Perhaps the 2 stage wasn't implemented so that Fenix can later release the "P1T" which is basically the same light with 2 stages, and a body that is *just* different enough so that everyone will have to buy the light over again. Fenix seems to have inherited a marketing strategy from Nintendo (Gameboy Advance, Advance SP, Micro, DS, DS lite).



I was thinking that same thing, but didn't want to say it. I'm glad you did. Although I commend Fenix for getting products out the door quickly, it pisses people off when they drop $50 or so only to find out a newer/better "version" of their same light is released in a quick time period.

In my case, I use 2-stage lights differently than others here do. Whereas most people want the low mode for reading, checking the kids at night, etc, I only wanted a low mode on those lights that have pretty crappy runtime on high. I used the low-mode as a "battery saving" feature, not for brightness control. If I need lower light, I can cover the opening to stop some of the light from coming out. In the case of the P1, a 2-hour runtime (perfectly regulated) is awesome in today's world of lights, even the customs. Try to name lights that will run this bright for 2-hours. You'll be hard-pressed to find them.

All that being said, I'd still like a low mode in the P1.


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 5, 2006)

Update #3 has been applied to the 1st post. It shows the runtime of my 2nd P1 unit. I think it's safe to say that what we have here is a great regulated 2-hour running light that is plenty bright, in about as small of a package as your can get.


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## dtsoll (Jun 5, 2006)

TIN, thanks for all your work on this, I ordered one after I saw your graph. 2 hours or thereabouts is a very decent runtime. For the price I can't see how you could go wrong!! Thanks again!! Doug


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## Cmoore (Jun 5, 2006)

this_is_nascar said:


> All that being said, I'd still like a low mode in the P1.


 
I think I prefer the P1 as it is. I, and I think many other CPF members too, have an ARC AAA or something similar that can take care of the low light requirement.

TIN, I know you are a AAA light fan; why do you also want a low mode on the P1?


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## AuroraLite (Jun 6, 2006)

TIN,

Thanks for the review, and I am really surprise to see its comparison to PD...that does tip me over and I too would soon to make my purchase.


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## dtsoll (Jun 8, 2006)

Got mine this morning, it is exactly what I have been looking for. Small, simple, bright, cheap, long runtime and very nice!!!! I think I may need another I like it so much. It will make a great companion for my Arc-P. The only two lights I will need to carry, at least for a while Thanks TIN and all for the information on these lights!! Doug


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## PJD (Jun 11, 2006)

Got mine this past Friday...EXCELLENT bang for the buck! Great output and run-time on a standard 123 cell; AWESOME output on an RCR123! Thanx for the review, TIN...it was your review that pushed me over the edge on this one! Good job...

PJD


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## billgr (Jun 11, 2006)

i'm on the fence about one. concerned about the wide variation in tints.

also, will wait for the P1T version...2 stage.

not announced, but knowing fenix, it should be no more than 2-3 months from now.


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## yaesumofo (Jun 11, 2006)

Nice work on the chartsTIN. My first impression of the light was that it was a whole hellofa lot brighter when I used a rcr123 cell and that there were big solderblobs. It is a cheap chineese light which is a good value. Had this light come out a year or two ago we would have all been lined up to buy them.
I considder this to be a great (interms of brightness) "throwaway" flashlight. It will NOT replace any of my McLuxIII's in any way.
If fenix could do a bit more work on their QC it would be great. Maybe they will come out with a true "PREMIUM" line with higher quality presorted emitters nicer soldering and better QC, oh and of course higher prices.
Yaesumofo


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## billgr (Jun 11, 2006)

*Slipping QC ?*

My L1P is great. from the feedback on the P1, it seems that it is not up to the L1P in QC.


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## PJD (Jun 11, 2006)

yaesumofo said:


> Nice work on the chartsTIN. My first impression of the light was that it was a whole hellofa lot brighter when I used a rcr123 cell and that there were big solderblobs. It is a cheap chineese light which is a good value. Had this light come out a year or two ago we would have all been lined up to buy them.
> I considder this to be a great (interms of brightness) "throwaway" flashlight. It will NOT replace any of my McLuxIII's in any way.
> If fenix could do a bit more work on their QC it would be great. Maybe they will come out with a true "PREMIUM" line with higher quality presorted emitters nicer soldering and better QC, oh and of course higher prices.
> Yaesumofo



I'm having a little trouble understanding what's going on here, in relation to some of the opinions expressed about the P1. No disrespect, Yaesumofo...I just quoted your post because it seems to encompass a lot of the opinions I'm having trouble understanding.

It may not be Surefire or McClux quality by any means, but I for one certainly don't see it as a "throw-away" light. 3 or 4 years ago when PG first introduced us to the Arc LS, folks were lined up waiting to get them. I understand that it was a "first" in a LOT of categories...but it was $120.00 right out of the gate. Now the P1 comes along sporting some things that even the Arc LS didn't: it's brighter, lasts longer on a 123 cell, has an AR glass lens, has better regulation, and is only a little more than a third of the cost of an Arc LS. Granted, there's nothing "new and excitingly different" about the P1...it's a simple twist-on, single stage 1X123 luxIII light, of which there's many on the market now. But if I were a betting man, I'd bet that the P1 is just as robust and can hold it's own in the durability category as any of the high-dollar custom lights, and will shine just as bright for just as long. Sure, the P1 lacks some of the "refinements" of it's higher priced counterparts, but it has some other features that even some of them don't. A "throw-away" light? Maybe to CPFers who have far more expendable $$ than me or many others on the forum, but in the performance category, I submit that it DOES compete with the "big boys", and at a far more attractive price point.

It's never been touted as a replacement for the McCluxes or the SF's, but it DOES hold it's own against them. I've owned the aforementioned high dollar lights, and while their refinement and durability DID and DOES impress me, the P1 impresses me just as much at it's price point. Just my "confused" $.02...YMMV

PJD


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## nerdgineer (Jun 11, 2006)

Agreed. I'll PM a mailing address and PP shipping anytime someone wants to throw their P1 - or any Fenix (or Goldstone or Ultrafire..) product away..


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## dtsoll (Jun 14, 2006)

Just got some info over on Flashlight-forums.com about the P1, AWTYD says he has info that the P1 runtime isn't all that good. Can someone tell me what this is about?? The graphs look good to me, anyone?? Doug


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 14, 2006)

dtsoll said:


> Just got some info over on Flashlight-forums.com about the P1, AWTYD says he has info that the P1 runtime isn't all that good. Can someone tell me what this is about?? The graphs look good to me, anyone?? Doug



Maybe he got a bum P1. We all know that all units of the same model (of any light) are not created equal.


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## dtsoll (Jun 14, 2006)

You are probably right Ray, I'll be watching that thread over there to see what Troy has to say about this! Doug


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## powernoodle (Jun 14, 2006)

I received a P1 today and am very impressed. On a RCR123 its very bright, with a nice tint and some serious throw. A small, very bright, simple light. I got a Proton yesterday, but its the P1 I'm going to be playing with for a good while. Think I'll get a second one.

cheers


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## dtsoll (Jun 15, 2006)

I agree Noodle!! Doug


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## jar3ds (Jun 15, 2006)

this is when someone needs to chime in and say that have fit a flupic in this thing... THEN I would buy it...


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 15, 2006)

jar3ds said:


> this is when someone needs to chime in and say that have fit a flupic in this thing... THEN I would buy it...



Yea, but then you're right back to an expensive light. All the OEM P1 needs, in my opinion, is a low-mode. For me, the P1 isn't winning any awards for "looks" of the light itself. Where it hits home is with its size vs. weight vs. output vs. runtime vs. cost standpoint. If you put the fluPic in there, it's just another plain-looking, multi-level, expensive light that requires rechargable batteries.


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## Phaserburn (Jun 15, 2006)

this_is_nascar said:


> Yea, but then you're right back to an expensive light. All the OEM P1 needs, in my opinion, is a low-mode. For me, the P1 isn't winning any awards for "looks" of the light itself. Where it hits home is with its size vs. weight vs. output vs. runtime vs. cost standpoint. If you put the fluPic in there, it's just another plain-looking, multi-level, expensive light that requires rechargable batteries.


 
I agree. The things I love about the P1 are it's simplicity and performance. Sometimes I just really want a no-thought light.


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## jar3ds (Jun 16, 2006)

well i see what you both are saying... and i think the requirement is the most anoying part of the flupic...

however, you state a low mode would be nice.... but everyone wants a different low setting.... some want the low to come on first... some want the high to come on first... also, it seems some like to have both settings all in one turn... some like the quick on and off sequences of the flupic...

you guys can have a custom flupic made that would be 'stupid'.... if ya know what i mean... price is a down fall but there seems to be a lot on this site that could care less about a $50 custom flupic if it does what they want...


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## Ikonomi (Jun 16, 2006)

Seeing the P1 compared to other popular 1xCR123 lights really puts it in perspective. Wow. Looks like the P1 is absolutely the best bang-for-the-buck 1xCR123 out there. It puts out more light for longer than anything else on your graph. That's amazing.

And to look at it compared to the curve for the good ol' Q3 that everyone was going crazy for last year... Wow. Technology marches on.


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## Ritch (Jun 16, 2006)

Boy, oh boy. I got my P1 a few days ago. It's brighter than the Q III, ARC LSH-P and the Longbow Micra (all feeded with fresh 123SF's). It seems rather well made and it is unbelievable compact. After 20 minutes runtime the P1 is really warm, but not too hot to hold it in the hand. When it is turned off, the battery rattles in the body, but this is momentarily the only negative impression i have.

best regards from Vienna, Austria


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## schill (Jun 16, 2006)

this_is_nascar said:


> If you put the fluPic in there, it's just another plain-looking, multi-level, expensive light that requires rechargable batteries.



Why would it require rechargable batteries? I have a flupic in a QIII that's doing fine with a normal primary cell. It may not be as bright as it would be with a rechargable cell (3.7V), but it's fine the way it is.


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## jsr (Jun 16, 2006)

The FluPIC is designed to run off Li-Ion cells due to the design. It uses an LDO as the output regulator and an LDO, by design, drops voltage. Off a 3.7V cell, it's perfect to drop the voltage to the VF of the LED. Off a primary 3.0V cell, it runs in direct drive and you're only getting about 2.85V nominally to the LED, and that's assuming no other losses in the circuit (which isn't realistic). The LED will still light, but as you stated, it's not as bright. At that voltage, most Luxs (regardless of bin) are only drawing around 100mA as it just started to turn on (most Luxs turn on around 2.3-2.5V).


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## Alloy Addict (Jun 16, 2006)

I predict that Fenix will come out with a two stage P1 within the next 6 months.


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## slaps (Jun 17, 2006)

Can you use unprotected rechargeable 123's or is it safe only to use protected? I ordered a custom SWOH mod and don't want to burn it up.


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## this_is_nascar (Jun 21, 2006)

Update #5 has been posted in mesage #1.


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## nightrider (Jun 21, 2006)

slaps said:


> Can you use unprotected rechargeable 123's or is it safe only to use protected? I ordered a custom SWOH mod and don't want to burn it up.


If you're worried about burning up something, you might consider some regulated 3.0v RCR123A batteries. I just got some of the Tenergy 900mah cells which are protected. On my first charge, I got 45 minutes out of the P1 until the battery shut down. There was very little detectable drop in brightness when the battery's protection kicked in and shut it down. The packaging says that the cell will not reach its rated capacity until after 3 to 5 charge cycles, so hopefully the run time will increase to about an hour when the cells are conditioned... we'll see.


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## GarageBoy (Jun 29, 2006)

I must say, I handled luxlovers and I couldn't put it down..
Fits in my hand soo greatly...gives off the most stunning beam ever...soo tiny!, such great run time..
I think it's time to replace my EDC (or relegate it to a different duty) (You guys know how attached I am to my TW4)


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## FlashlightPhreak (Jun 30, 2006)

I agree with the majority of posts re: P1, it's a keeper. Hopefully it will stand the test of time as my new EDC.

What will they think of next????


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## jayflash (Jul 2, 2006)

Being late to the party hasn't kept me from posting before so why change now?

Thanks for the graphs and info T-I-N. 

Thanks for the quick shipping 4/7s.

The P1 is a good "throwaway" replacement for my Arc LS. I prefer to carry the Arc only when I can do so in a very secure manner - losing the Arc LS would be like losing an heirloom. The P1 is replaceable so it can be more casually carried.

The P1 sort of has two light levels if you know, beforehand, how you'll be using it: primary cell for longer R/T with less light & R123 for a shorter time but bright blasts of light.

What level is the U60 graphed at - primary, not max? 

Great news regarding the <1 volt capability. We have another CR123 drainer!


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 2, 2006)

The HDS light was on it's Primary setting. I don't recall what level that equates to.


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## jayflash (Jul 2, 2006)

Thank you, sir. The HDS factory primary setting is 10 lumens which is too low for my needs so I changed it to 22. The P1 with R123s seems like 50 or so.

The P1 served as my flashaholic "methadone" or substitute for the FireFli III, for now, anyway. I'd really like the FF but promised my daughter I'd buy fireworks and a $100 doesn't go too far.

Last summer my spare change hunt, around the house, garnered $135 which funded the HDS U60. I'm hoping that trick works again.

Upon further consideration, I could rationalize a new FF III. I actually saved $100 by getting the P1 instead of the FF. Well, $100 is almost enough to buy the FF. I'm sure the spare change laying around will make up the difference. So, is that a reasonable rational to get a FireFli? C'mon tell me what I wanna hear!


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## tsask (Jul 4, 2006)

jayflash said:


> The P1 served as my flashaholic "methadone" or substitute for the FireFli III, for now,.QUOTE]
> I thought the exact same thing when I ordered my P1 on RCR123s!
> can't comment on the FF3, but I can say my P1 ROCKS!


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## Cmoore (Jul 4, 2006)

jayflash said:


> The P1 served as my flashaholic "methadone" or substitute for the FireFli III, for now, anyway.


 
I'm fortunate enough to have a FF3 and a P1. Given the P1's ability to run on either a primary or rechargeable battery, and do this very well by the way, I would probably opt for the P1 if I could only have one of these two lights. 

I'm not giving up my FF3 to buy more P1s; but, the P1 is a winner -- inexpensive, bright, great run-time, simple and runs well on all types of 123 batteries.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jul 7, 2006)

This thread is worthless with out pics!

Beamshots that is!

I'm used to using a Minim*g with a Lambda LUXIII and a Kroll. But it's too long and hangs up on my seat and has been activated a time or two.

Right now I carry a Dorcy Super 1W 123. But it fails in one of my primary needs. That is to look down into tanks, drums and pits to see level etc. The Dorcy just ain't got it.

I THINK a tighter spot would help. Does the P1 have a nice tight spot?


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## Cmoore (Jul 7, 2006)

PlayboyJoeShmoe said:


> Does the P1 have a nice tight spot?


 
Yes, the P1 has a nice relatively tight hot spot. I think it will meet your stated need just fine. Sorry, but I don't have any beam shots for you.


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## TigerhawkT3 (Jul 9, 2006)

This doesn't relate to the P1 (which, judging by the great feedback it's been getting, will be my next purchase), but rather to PlayboyJoeShmoe's post. If you need a big thrower, I would recommend a SL PP Lux, in 4AA or 3C. It's as bright as many other Luxeon flashlights, but the throw is pretty impressive. For looking long distances into darkness, it would illuminate up to 100 feet or so before its spot gets wider than 10-20 ft in diameter (YMMV, of course).

Hope this helps!


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jul 9, 2006)

Tigerhawk,

I would agree totally about the 4AA or 3C LUX.

But I'm looking for an EDC. My 2AA Minim*g is too long. It drags on the seat of my truck, and has been accdentaly activated a time or three.

I've taken to carrying my Dorcy 1x123. It wasn't a big win in the Luxeon Lottery having a distinctly blueish tint. In addition it hasn't got a real tight spot.

Last night I had to go do a service call in a gas station parking light. The Dorcy was GREAT for that.

But I have to look down into tanks, drums etc. With Mr. Sun doing it's best to blind me! The Minim*g does so, the Dorcy comes up lame.

I have access to bigger stuff in my truck. And I have SERIOUS illumination tools here at home!

But I'm looking for a little EDC that does what I NEED when I need it....

P1 SEEMS like that light...


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## TigerhawkT3 (Jul 9, 2006)

If you want a good light that's smaller than a MiniM*g, the P1 would probably fit the bill nicely. For throw, however, I don't know if it would be quite enough for what you want (950 Lux). Now, this is just a shot in the dark (pun not intended, but welcome), but have you considered a class IIIb green laser? Those are pretty bright, and the throw is like, well, like a laser. I don't know if you would be able to discern levels in tanks and drums, but it might work if you got one with enough power. Just a thought.


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## lightrod (Jul 12, 2006)

jayflash said:


> ....I actually saved $100 by getting the P1 instead of the FF. Well, $100 is almost enough to buy the FF.....


 
Wow - :thinking: - interesting logic. Anyway - 

I am very impressed with what I'm seeing on the P1, but am truly able to resist purchase because I've got the FF3. For size (truly pocketable), quality, and output flexibility I think the FF3 is unbeatable. And the more I use it under more conditions, the more I appreciate the beam. "Soft" center spot (nice sized spot with gradual transition from spot to spill), great throw/spill combo, and natural tint makes it the light I'm always reaching for.

So there's your next airtight excuse: invest in the FF3 to keep you from endlessly buying other lights. So you saved $100 by NOT buying it, now you _invest_ that money into a high return purchase that will save you a lot more money! And the best part of all: you will own BOTH the P1 and the FF3. :twothumbs 

[end of unpaid advertisement for the FF3]


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## jayflash (Jul 13, 2006)

Logic isn't necessary for continued purchases but lots of rationalizations make it easier. Let's see...my birthday is in three weeks, if I collect the loose change laying around (as I did last year at this time) it should be a good chunk 'o the total price, it's almost my third year on the CPF so why not get an FF THREE, I don't have a custom built light yet. 

My ritual for acquiring new portable lighting instruments seems to consist of holding off a few months or more, hemming & hawing, internal debating, yearning, sweating, dreaming about the light, mentioning it to my SO, ignoring her financial questions, reminding her how much her Imelda Marcos collection has cost, and finally pulling the trigger. 

My finger's REAL itchy!


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jul 13, 2006)

Lazer is fun for playing with cats and dogs. That does it for what I think of them.

P1 needs to equal or excell Lambda LUXIII minim*g. It is perfect in every way save length.

As soon as I can, I'm gonna try one. Period.


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## RebelXTNC (Jul 16, 2006)

I received my P1 from 4sevens yesterday. I'm very pleased with the light itself. Not exactly sure how I'm going to use it though. It's a little fat for keychain or coin-pocket use so my two Peak Matterhorns will probably stay where they've been.
I may switch the P1 with my L1P that has been my belt-sheath EDC since March. Although I may switch to an L2P head on an extra L1P body tube instead. I'm going to have to actually wear them and see what works best.
Certainly the P1 I got is an outstanding performer with a very clean beam, a good tint that's fairly cool but definitely white and not green at all.
I must say it is perfectly one-hand operable, something I always worry about with twisty lights.
I did have to pull the foam ring out of the bottom. There was no way it was going to light with Surefire cells and that thick of a foam ring. I put a small amount of tape around the battery to reduce the rattle.
This light gets warm fast! I don't think I'll do a run time test. 
It is a little brighter than either of my Q3's and the P1 hotspot is a little tighter but the spill is a little bigger. I have an exceptional L2P that's just slightly dimmer, so I've resisted getting an L1T or L2T and can't give a comparison to the P1 with those.


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## malcontent (Jul 16, 2006)

RebelXTNC said:


> I did have to pull the foam ring out of the bottom. There was no way it was going to light with Surefire cells and that thick of a foam ring. I put a small amount of tape around the battery to reduce the rattle.


 
I had the same issue. Get with 4sevens and I am sure he will send you a new styled foam spacer that works just fine with the SF battery.


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## carrot (Jul 16, 2006)

lightrod said:


> So there's your next airtight excuse: invest in the FF3 to keep you from endlessly buying other lights.


You know, this was my excuse to buy the A2 -- it's so versatile you don't *really* need other lights when you've got it... but I ended up buying dozens of cheaper ones anyway. /me glances at the six Streamlight Stylii (Styluses?) on his desk.


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## TinderBox (UK) (Jul 18, 2006)

It would have been nice if they had fitted a spring inside the P1.

on the bottom of the battery holder like they did on the LOP.

because my batterystation cells don't half rattle.

anyway the P1 is much brighter running on protected RC123, and their a tight fit.

I love the build quality otherwise.

regards.


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## lightwolf (Jul 22, 2006)

Hello Nascar,

again an excellent and very informal thread of you. Thanks! 

An argument more for this, that the Fenix P1 is a real bargain buy. 

Plan you one idled with the new R123 with safe chemistry of AW? 
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=125353

I am sure that I am not the only one who is interested at it. 
Cells are already bought. Unfortunately, I do not have any possibility for measuring.


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## europium (Aug 3, 2006)

this_is_nascar said:


> ...
> 
> *Update #5:* I'm now in the possesion of (4) P1's. Three of the are original/stock units and the the other has been modded with a U-Binned emitter. I thought I'd share the runtimes....


Great info. Thanks for the time and effort, TIN. :goodjob:

*Would love to see the output/runtime of the UWAJ-modded P1 running an R123.* :naughty:


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## this_is_nascar (Aug 3, 2006)

I had never thought about that to be honest, but it does sound intriguing.


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## ericg533 (Aug 4, 2006)

I just ordered a P1. Thanks a lot guys. Not.


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## Alin10123 (Aug 4, 2006)

ericg533 said:


> I just ordered a P1. Thanks a lot guys. Not.



Let us know when you get it. I promise you that you wont be dissappointed. lol


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## Owen (Aug 4, 2006)

I'm curious about the relatively dramatic difference in runtime with the UWAJ.
Haven't seen such a difference between different Vf emitters before, and it has me wondering how that will affect mine if I drop a UXOK in there. Also about how low the Vf is on the stock emitters(haven't had mine apart to check), especially since I'm using rechargeables with the stock light now, and would prefer not to fry it putting it in direct drive with them, since the emitter swap is still a "maybe".

.02 on my P1:
My P1 started out being used to burn up old 123s, and being carried in conjunction with my EDC Aleph2. Right now the P1 is pretty much all I'm using, and is getting fed with R123s. From day one, it's been carried in the same pocket with my keys, and has been dropped a few times-not a mark on it, literally looks brand new. It loses out in comparison with my Aleph2 with BB750/TYOK with both on R123s, as the A2 has both brighter spot and spill. Spot is about the same size for both lights. The P1 is bright enough that I think the only thing really missing from a practical standpoint is the low beam, though. Color-wise, my P1 is definitely a YO, which is ok with me, but I'd prefer a XO or WO for what I use this light for. 
I have no quality complaints. Threads are fine, finish is great, beam is great, runtime great. I like the fact I've got a split ring and lanyard on there, but can still use the light in "candle" mode, which I can't do with my Aleph. There was a little battery rattle, but a foam corn pad eliminated that. 
I loved and for a time EDC'd an Arc LS with twisty, but like the P1 more, since it's better in almost every way.


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## phatalbert (Aug 4, 2006)

Hey TiN, a thousand thanks for the amazingly comprehensive collection of graphs! :thumbsup:

I know I sent you a PM regarding this earlier but I'm still a little confused... in they key on the first graph it appears that one light is using a "1xSF" (surefire batt) and a "1xE2" (which I would assume means one energizer e2) but in our PM I thought I understood you saying that you did not use E2's. Is this just a lower output P1 with a SF batt. 

Thanks again for the clarification!


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## this_is_nascar (Aug 5, 2006)

In the CR123 configuration, I rarely use the Energizer E2 cells. With lights that impress me, if I have them lying around I'll include them in the test. That's what I did here. For normal powering of CR123 based lights, I use the SufeFire brand. With the AA or AAA configuration, however, I only use Energizer E2 lithium cells.


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