# Dorcy 9 Volt LED



## xxo (Dec 23, 2018)

Picked up a couple of these from Dorcy:







snaps on to a 9 Volt battery and uses 6 LEDs






The switch on the side turns it on an off and allows 2 mode choices high, where all 6 LEDs are lit and Low with only 2 lit.







The Specs say it is 40 lumens on high and has a runtime of 100 hrs. (presumably on low).






All in all seems like a decent low cost LED that runs off of 9 Volt batteries - fairly bright and throws a bit father than I expected.


https://www.dorcy.com/flashlight-wi...MInPW4o8m23wIVEFqGCh1Q2AOMEAQYASABEgIm7_D_BwE


----------



## JerryM (Dec 30, 2018)

After reading your post I ordered a couple also. The brightness on low is about what my Fenix E01 is. That makes me doubt that it will run 100 hours on low, but I am testing it now.
Thanks for the info. I think it will be usefus. I remember that a hiker was out for a month or longer using a Paklight (I think) on low and never changed the battery. That light, however had a single led mode. They are also expensive.

Pakiight makes one which uses lithium batteries. I wonder if the Dorcy will run off that?
I have a couple of NiMh batteries which I am charging to compare with alkalines.
Jerry


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Dec 31, 2018)

It may run 100 hours on low (2 LEDs) but that doesn't say it will be at full output probably only 10% of the output after that long (if even that). I have a cheap 9v light running a single LED and it runs a long long time off 1 9v depleted battery but dims continuously over time.
I have a 2AAA nimh light using a single LED that runs for weeks till the light is unusable and it does so direct drive. LEDs can be useful putting out a few lumens and the power required is miniscule enough to run a long time off very little current.
I've seen those 6x5mm block LED 9v lights on ebay for years but never bought one as they were too expensive and cheap looking to me for what you are getting. 5mm LEDs cost nearly nothing such that a 9v adapter like that should cost about $1 to make and sell but they want about $6 from china for them.


----------



## JerryM (Dec 31, 2018)

I always thought they were too expensive, but 2 for $3 is down my alley. That includes batteries.
Jerry


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Dec 31, 2018)

JerryM said:


> I always thought they were too expensive, but 2 for $3 is down my alley. That includes batteries.
> Jerry



Looks like $3 each with Free Shipping but remember you have to check the Free shipping option otherwise it wants you to pay $7.45 for shipping 2 day priority. $3 with shipping IMO is a good price as it is half the price they are on Ebay from China.


----------



## xxo (Jan 2, 2019)

JerryM said:


> After reading your post I ordered a couple also. The brightness on low is about what my Fenix E01 is. That makes me doubt that it will run 100 hours on low, but I am testing it now.
> Thanks for the info. I think it will be usefus. I remember that a hiker was out for a month or longer using a Paklight (I think) on low and never changed the battery. That light, however had a single led mode. They are also expensive.
> 
> Pakiight makes one which uses lithium batteries. I wonder if the Dorcy will run off that?
> ...




I was thinking of trying some of the Energizer Ultimate Lithium 9V's, but they are kind of pricey compared to the cost of the light. Same thing with the rechargeable 9 Volts since I don't have any of the rechargeable cells or a 9V charger. I see that Soshine makes a Li-Ion rechargeable 9V that HJK reviewed that looks good, I wouldn't buy one and a charger just for these Dorcy lights, but I am thinking of maybe getting one to play around with the adapter that I 3D printed to run 9 Volt batteries in my Nite Ized LED Fulton angle head light.

A potential problem with NiMh and lithiums in the Dorcy is that they might cause the LEDs to burn out or go dim if these lights depend on the IR of the alkaline cells to limit current.


----------



## xxo (Jan 2, 2019)

It looks like this light is sold under a bunch of different brands, such as bell and howe "microbrite", "Blocklite" and sinoR "mini compact" etc. but at a higher prices than the Dorcy brand.


----------



## Hondo (Jan 3, 2019)

I don't think the cell internal resistance is used to limit current to the LED's, since the voltage is so high that it requires a "buck" circuit to use the 9 Volt cell. I would also say that the only justification for a lithium 9V, which should work just fine, like on the Pak-Lites, is for storage/usage in extreme hot and cold environments. I've used a Safelight daily for over 12 years, and I only feed it old 9V alkalines that came out of smoke detectors. I still only change the battery once or twice a year. Seriously, if you are going to buy batteries for these, I would just get the cheap carbon-zinc ones, they still run a long time, are lighter and probably give more lumen-hours/dollar.

There used to be an electronic click switch version on the 'bay that you could get for around two bucks in multi-packs and was pretty nice, my friend got a bunch as gifts 2-3 years ago, and I still have mine. No sign of them any more, but some of those "Blocklights" look like they have a click button instead of a slider switch.

Gonna have to snag a few of these too, I'm a sucker for 9V lights, especially since I always have a pile of free batteries to use in them. I'm assuming they never ran a BOGO at $3.00, and that was when they were at $5.99, so basically the same deal. Can't get an alkaline 9V battery for $1.50!


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 3, 2019)

Hondo said:


> I don't think the cell internal resistance is used to limit current to the LED's, since the voltage is so high that it requires a "buck" circuit to use the 9 Volt cell. I would also say that the only justification for a lithium 9V, which should work just fine, like on the Pak-Lites, is for storage/usage in extreme hot and cold environments. I've used a Safelight daily for over 12 years, and I only feed it old 9V alkalines that came out of smoke detectors. I still only change the battery once or twice a year. Seriously, if you are going to buy batteries for these, I would just get the cheap carbon-zinc ones, they still run a long time, are lighter and probably give more lumen-hours/dollar.
> 
> There used to be an electronic click switch version on the 'bay that you could get for around two bucks in multi-packs and was pretty nice, my friend got a bunch as gifts 2-3 years ago, and I still have mine. No sign of them any more, but some of those "Blocklights" look like they have a click button instead of a slider switch.
> 
> Gonna have to snag a few of these too, I'm a sucker for 9V lights, especially since I always have a pile of free batteries to use in them. I'm assuming they never ran a BOGO at $3.00, and that was when they were at $5.99, so basically the same deal. Can't get an alkaline 9V battery for $1.50!


Actually the LEDs are pairs wired in series and probably just have a small resistor and take 30ma or so for 2 and 100ma for all 6. If this is the way it is wired then a buck circuit would probably not work well to drop 2-3v or less and with all 6 LEDs lit the voltage would probably sad to around 7v or so when new.


----------



## Hondo (Jan 3, 2019)

I guess at this price it makes sense that they just use resistors to throttle current, which would still work for the lithium and NiMH 9V batteries. I'm a bit spoiled in the 9V department with James' Safe-Light designs, which are quite sophisticated circuits. R.I.P. James Meyer, and the Safe-Light products.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 3, 2019)

Hondo said:


> I guess at this price it makes sense that they just use resistors to throttle current, which would still work for the lithium and NiMH 9V batteries. I'm a bit spoiled in the 9V department with James' Safe-Light designs, which are quite sophisticated circuits. R.I.P. James Meyer, and the Safe-Light products.


They could also use a cheap linear regulator type circuit also that would probably add a little to the cost. I'm guessing the more expensive lights do have some sort of buck regulator and electronic switching circuit if they only use a single LED. 
If these block lights don't have any sort of circuitry in them there is no reason they shouldn't cost but a dollar or two instead of $6 each.
Perhaps someone who receives one of these would be able to look and see what type of circuit they have etc.
An interesting experiment would be to get a 4AA battery holder with a 9v clip like attachment and see how it runs off 6v that would make for a lot longer solution. I have a 6AA holder that a 9v clip can attach to which would make for a lot longer runtime in a pinch.


----------



## Hondo (Jan 5, 2019)

OK, got 'em already.

One had no stick on the glue holding the guts in the body, so checking out the board was easy. We won't count that as a defect, a little hot glue will put it into action.

They are slightly more complicated than I expected, but still seem to only use resistors to control current. But they have two different surface mount resistors, and three identical cylindrical ones. I can't follow just what they are all doing, but it works well. If I understood which does what, I would not mind adding resistance to the low, 2-LED mode, as it appears too close to the high 6-LED mode. It is brighter than my Gerber Sonic with a Nichia DS led, so the two LED's must be putting out about as much brightness, each, as the Sonic. High is mucho-plenty, and I would not touch it. Being shared by six LED's, I don't think each one is being driven too hard.

Another thing I anticipated was that it is just a little tricky to turn off, since off is in the middle of the switch, and you tend to sometimes go right past it to the other mode. I think it would be better to put OFF on the left, and low in the middle - but the switch contacts are soldered right into the PCB between the two banks of LED's.

So worth $3, since I'll put the new batteries in smoke detectors, and I would have paid almost that much for them anyway. And I'll run them on older, but usable 9V batteries, which I always have an over abundance of. Would be perfect if the low mode was about 1/4 of what it is, and the switch turned off at one end of its travel. But not really a great value for $6, IMO.


----------



## xxo (Jan 5, 2019)

Hondo said:


> OK, got 'em already.
> 
> One had no stick on the glue holding the guts in the body, so checking out the board was easy. We won't count that as a defect, a little hot glue will put it into action.
> 
> ...




Thanks much for the information Hondo!

Any chance of a pic of the guts?

I thought the same about the switch, but it might not be bad to be able to select which mode you want it to turn on in from off. Also these don't look all that water resistant. One thing I would have liked is a way to attach a lanyard or a split ring to make it easier to carry.


----------



## Hondo (Jan 5, 2019)

Oops, sorry, I already hot-glued it together. Something tells me after a good drop, the others may separate the same way - I think the hot glue treatment is a lot tougher than whatever clear liquid adhesive appears to have been used. Just don't let it get in the slot where the switch slides. For what they are, I was not going to invest much into modding one, but replacing a resistor would be within my skills and motivation.

Fun fact: After connecting a really sacked 9V, I found that low was brighter than high. When it tries to drive all six LED's from a weak battery, none of them are bright enough to let it match the brightness it can get from just two. So logically, at some point during the life of a battery, there will be a point where both settings are the same brightness. I kinda think though, that the 2-LED setting would be more efficient at that point.

The only way they are "water proof" is if the circuit still works when wet!

If I wanted a lanyard, I would wrap some light cord around the battery, leaving a loop or whatever you want, and squirt some Super Glue on the wrap to keep it from slipping. Batteries should last quite a while, but it would need to be done to each new one. Don't think that that head can't be knocked loose with a fair blow or a load from sitting down with it in your pocket. If it's loaded right, it comes off fairly easy, so I don't consider these the best type of light for EDC type use on your person. I see them more for nightstand, travel bag, by the computer, glovebox, kitchen drawer sort of duty. The Pak-Lite is only about half as tall as this thing, so it has a lot less tendency to get separated from the battery. The steel case of the battery will take a magnet, and then you can stick it on a fender or under hood for repairs. Of course, without any glue on the battery, the magnet will stay on the surface the light was attached to.


----------



## xxo (Jan 5, 2019)

I was thinking or trying to drill a small hole on a angle through one of the corners on the back end for a small split ring, but you are right this would not make the best carry light.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 5, 2019)

Hondo said:


> OK, got 'em already.
> 
> One had no stick on the glue holding the guts in the body, so checking out the board was easy. We won't count that as a defect, a little hot glue will put it into action.
> 
> ...


I'm guessing the 3 cylindrical resistors are all the same value and are for EACH set of 2 LEDs and the SMD resistors are differing with one for the pair of 2 LEDs and the other either for the other 4 or all combined. If you hadn't put it back together you could take a resistor and parallel it across the other resistors and find which one does what when it gets brighter or not.


----------



## xxo (Jan 7, 2019)

I tried hooking this thing up to some NiMh cells at 1.36V each, 4 cells lights up the LEDs very dim on both the high and low modes, while 5 cells lit them up fairly bright, so they won't vampire down to super low Voltages with much output. I would think that even a partially depleted 9V battery that is starting to chirp in a smoke detector would run these for a while but would probably be well below full brightness.

BTW it almost seems that they designed these to not be able to hook up to a 9V wire connector - the connections on the block are all recessed preventing the wire connector from snapping on all the way.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 7, 2019)

Not surprising it won't run well around 5v as at that voltage a 9v battery is pretty much dead from my experience around 6.5v a 9v will cave in voltage a lot under even the load of an LED.


----------



## Stormdrane (Jan 8, 2019)

I bought a few of them as well. They look just like the Blocklite. Cheap but functional. 





And shown with an older two LED Blocklite and a Pak-Lite. For added functionality I stick a small powerful magnet to the battery, and if I need the light to be waterproof, I put it in a small zip lock type bag.


----------



## Tesla (Jan 9, 2019)

I ordered 5 for various family. Are you the Stormdrane from EDC Forums, also?


----------



## LeanBurn (Jan 9, 2019)

Surprised not to see a single beam shot comparing to a E01 or something.


----------



## xxo (Jan 9, 2019)

LeanBurn said:


> Surprised not to see a single beam shot comparing to a E01 or something.



There are some beam shots compare to a Paklite in this vid I found on yt:


----------



## Stormdrane (Jan 10, 2019)

Tesla said:


> I ordered 5 for various family. Are you the Stormdrane from EDC Forums, also?


Yep, been using the same screen name with the particular spelling on the interwebs for near twenty-five years.


----------



## Hondo (Jan 11, 2019)

LeanBurn said:


> Surprised not to see a single beam shot comparing to a E01 or something.



This thing is way brighter than an E01, even the low setting I would say it is brighter. That is why I wish the low was much lower, like the Pak-Lite.

Lynx, sorry I didn't fool around with it more apart, I was anxious to start using it and wanted to make sure I could secure it with hot glue. I recommend it if yours comes apart, which is not unlikely. It's pretty messy, I had to peel and pick away a lot of excess after I slid it back together, but it seems solid now. I did not want to invest much time into it, but what I need is more resistance on the low, and that would require removing at least one existing resistor and replacing it with a higher value. No way I would approach the SMD ones, which is probably what it needs, and the tiny cylindrical ones would be hard too due to the LED's and switch crowding them. Not sure if I could even fit one of the smallest ones I have in my assortment in there, either. Pak-Light has the levels worked out much better, and a better quality switch, in a low-profile package. That's why they get twenty bucks for them, and they are worth it, even though we (me included) gripe about paying it.

As far as pocket carrying goes, I had it in my front jeans pocket for one evening, and twice pulled it out in two pieces, the battery and the head. If you really wanted to do that, you would have to wrap a piece of strong tape around the light/battery joint. But it does just fine in the side pocket of a fleece zip-up around the house.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 11, 2019)

Hondo said:


> This thing is way brighter than an E01, even the low setting I would say it is brighter. That is why I wish the low was much lower, like the Pak-Lite.
> 
> Lynx, sorry I didn't fool around with it more apart, I was anxious to start using it and wanted to make sure I could secure it with hot glue. I recommend it if yours comes apart, which is not unlikely. It's pretty messy, I had to peel and pick away a lot of excess after I slid it back together, but it seems solid now. I did not want to invest much time into it, but what I need is more resistance on the low, and that would require removing at least one existing resistor and replacing it with a higher value. No way I would approach the SMD ones, which is probably what it needs, and the tiny cylindrical ones would be hard too due to the LED's and switch crowding them. Not sure if I could even fit one of the smallest ones I have in my assortment in there, either. Pak-Light has the levels worked out much better, and a better quality switch, in a low-profile package. That's why they get twenty bucks for them, and they are worth it, even though we (me included) gripe about paying it.
> 
> As far as pocket carrying goes, I had it in my front jeans pocket for one evening, and twice pulled it out in two pieces, the battery and the head. If you really wanted to do that, you would have to wrap a piece of strong tape around the light/battery joint. But it does just fine in the side pocket of a fleece zip-up around the house.


Without seeing the way it is constructed if the switch is mechanical you could consider cutting a wire to it and inserting an extra resistor on the low side of it. I've taken out smd resistors and soldering round ones in place of them before usually though putting small flexible wires with head shrink on them and remotely attaching them. For the effort of modding these I guess someone could just make their own version of these blocks with 5mm LEDs. 
Personally I don't see much of a market now for these lights for us flashaholics as many lights in the $20 or less range have low low modes to make a rechargeable battery last insanely long times in use that backup dim lights using less common cells are basically overkill.


----------



## datiLED (Jan 23, 2019)

I just picked up two of the Dorcy 9V lights for $2.40 each. I used the 20% off code "WINTER" to bring my total down to $4.80 for the pair. 

I will open one when they arrive, and post pictures of the internals. I will likely replace the resistors to provide lower levels for longer runtime off of the 9V.

Hondo, totally agree about the Safe-Light! I use my CPF Safe-Light nightly, and love the side switch. I bought a bunch of them from Wit's End when they were being sold on the old CPF marketplace.


----------



## JerryM (Jan 23, 2019)

Is the only advantage of these lights run time? I admit that is a great advantage if you are hiking or back pack camping. Under most circumstances a single AA is smaller and more convenient, and has a decent low run time. 
Jerry


----------



## datiLED (Jan 23, 2019)

Being able to use the batteries from smoke and carbon monoxide detectors means a free power source every 6 months. I also like the idea of having another battery type that I can use for producing light.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 23, 2019)

JerryM said:


> Is the only advantage of these lights run time? I admit that is a great advantage if you are hiking or back pack camping. Under most circumstances a single AA is smaller and more convenient, and has a decent low run time.
> Jerry



I think the advantage is the 9v battery format itself in that some people use 9v in devices and end up with half used batteries from smoke alarms and wireless mics and other devices. 9v batteries may also be available to buy in a massive power outage while other standard batteries are all gone. These also should tail stand well and take up a small enough space. If someone doesn't have a constant supply of 9v batteries these may be a waste of funds but at around $3 not a huge investment compared to the uber 9v lights costing 12-$25 or so.


----------



## Sos24 (Jan 23, 2019)

I ordered a couple of these because at $3 a piece I figure they could make a good “better than nothing” emergency light.



JerryM said:


> Is the only advantage of these lights run time? I admit that is a great advantage if you are hiking or back pack camping. Under most circumstances a single AA is smaller and more convenient, and has a decent low run time.
> Jerry



I purchased these for an emergency light due to the advantage of running off a 9v battery, as well as run time. I know during periods of emergencies, batteries sell out fast except 9v. I stock various battery types, but like the idea of having a flashlight that runs off batteries that I’ve still seen on store shelves when all the rest were gone.


----------



## Tesla (Jan 24, 2019)

I always have 9v batteries around anyway for guitar pedals, plus they are very compact & can be stored almost anywhere until needed.


----------



## LeanBurn (Jan 24, 2019)

Has anyone ever seen a 9V battery leak?


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 24, 2019)

Tesla said:


> I always have 9v batteries around anyway for guitar pedals, plus they are very compact & can be stored almost anywhere until needed.


9v batteries take up a little less than 2xAA batteries and you have to make sure not to store them around metal so as to not short out the two terminals. I tend to store my few 9v batteries I stock for multimeters and smoke alarms in a plastic fishing tackle type box and store them back to back in the same slot. I just tested all my junk 9v batteries one looks like it has some power in it at 8.4v (no load) one is 6.6v which is pretty much depleted for normal use and the other two are about 2.8v. One of the 2.8v batteries can power a single 5mm LED at perhaps a half lumen the other won't even light it up at all not even a faint glow so it just got tossed in the trash.


----------



## Tesla (Jan 24, 2019)

I usually just store them in their original packaging--cutting off the excess cardboard & leaving the batteries themselves in the original plastic to prevent shorting. Failing that, a strip of electrical tape over the top precludes any shorting...no biggie.


----------



## ZMZ67 (Jan 24, 2019)

LeanBurn said:


> Has anyone ever seen a 9V battery leak?



Yes but 9V and the large 6V lantern batteries seem to fare better than the typical cylinder shape AAA-D alkys. Since both are made up of sub cells I think the leaks are often contained in the casing. 9V will sometimes bulge instead of leak out so the leak ends up being contained instead of ruining the light or device. I am not saying that the leak won't escape the casing,I have seen that as well,but it happens far less often IME.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Jan 24, 2019)

LeanBurn said:


> Has anyone ever seen a 9V battery leak?



I've seen several leak and it is often out the bottom side away from the contacts and leaks typically are less because of the dual containment of some that have 6AAAAs in them. The amount of noticeable leaks is 1/10 (or less) of that of round cells. One disadvantage is lithium 9v are very expensive compared with lithium AA/AAAs now


----------



## ZMZ67 (Jan 26, 2019)

If lithium batteries were more reasonably priced this might be a good light to keep in the automobile for give-away. Unfortunately it looks like lithiums will be close to $7 ea. at best, kind of negating the cheap initial price. Temperature fluctuations make alkalines a no-go for car storage here even with the lower leak propensity of 9V. Maybe a give-away light for home use since the price is so low?

As a dedicated Pak-lite fan I have plenty of those for my own use and other lights when more output is needed so I really don't have a use for the Dorcy 9V myself. The one time I examined a similar light to the Dorcy (maybe the same light but it has been a few years ago)it seemed pretty cheap in construction. For my part I would much rather have a Pak-lite even with the $20 price.


----------



## Tesla (Jan 26, 2019)

Totally agree not for car use...especially in TX where summer temps get 130 plus in a car..also not enough lumens or throw, probably, but for power-out scenarios at home, not a bad buy...especially if, like me, you have a hobby that dictates having 9v batteries around, anyway.


----------



## datiLED (Feb 1, 2019)

I received the Dorcy 9V lights a few days ago, but they were well sealed and difficult to get open. The current limiting is done with a combination of resistors and diodes. It appears that the diodes are in series with two LEDs each. There is a 220 and 680 ohm resistor, and three MELF package diodes (similar to a 4148 or 914).


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Feb 1, 2019)

I'm guessing the diodes act as voltage droppers and the resistors are for the 2 modes with one mode being 2 LEDs with the 680 ohm and the other mode the 220 ohm resistor with all 6 LEDs. If you wanted to make it dimmer either remove the resistors, or if you can see a circuit trace cut it and scrape it to solder a resistor to connect the trace back. Probably the 680 ohm resistor would be the one to add to or replace with a larger amount for a dimmer mode on the 2 LEDs which would leave the whole 6 LEDs as high mode.


----------



## Hondo (Feb 3, 2019)

Well, shows what I know - I thought the diodes looked like banded resistors. Now I know I don't know how to mod one for lower low. Hoping someone who understands this stuff better than me comes up with a relatively easy solution, I'd break back into one if I knew I could do it.

As it is, I just use the low mode 100% of the time. It's usually more than I need, and high is not that much brighter, especially on a low battery, and then it will eventually become lower than the low mode.


----------



## Lynx_Arc (Feb 3, 2019)

If you use low all the time you could just cut the circuit coming from one of the battery posts and attach a suitable resistor to bridge it there and you would have lower output but it would come at a price of the high mode also being throttled down similarly and reduced output/runtime at lower levels.


----------

