# Princeton Tec Apex, or something else?



## etc (Jul 12, 2007)

I need a powerful headlamp. It seems the leader is the 3W Apex, but is there anything else exciting?

I would think it will take them years to integrate the new generation of LEDs?


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## DiCEMAN (Jul 12, 2007)

I have just recently purchased the Apex from Lighthound.
It really is a great light.

The Tint of the 4 LEDs and the Maxbright lamp is not as white as I would have liked but the combination of throw and spill give Really useful options.

I find the Apex the most useful Headlamp I have ever owned.
Best of luck.

DiCEMAN


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## greenLED (Jul 12, 2007)

The Apex and the Eos are the leaders of the pack around CPF these days. The Eos especially, since it's relatively easy to mod into using a Seoul LED. I have 3 Eos  and an Apex Pro.

If I were to change anything on the Apex, it'd be more differentiation between the levels. Other than that, it's a great headlamp for outdoor work. I'm not even sure I'd mod it with a Seoul to make it brighter. OK, it'd be great if it had more runtime, but that's just how things are with the Pro version (if you want more runtime, go with the regular Apex then).

The Eos is more compact, versatile, I like the levels a little better, and I can read comfortably with it at night, since the batteries are at the front. The stock optic gives a tight beam, but that's OK for me, except when I'm reading at night. For that reason alone, I've changed the optic for a reflector in one of my Eos.


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## LedSled (Jul 12, 2007)

The Apex and Apex Pro are both fine lights, IMHO the best headlamps available without spending hundreds of $$. There have been some reports of case cracking and O-ring problems, so I'd suggest you inspect any new Apex carefully. Prompt warranty replacement has not been a problem.

The Apex's TIR optic is a bit narrow and ringy for some tastes, and the Lux III is a bit weak by today's standards. However, upgrades are quite feasible. CPF members PhotonFanatic and AW (I believe) sell P4 emitters. There may be others. There are also P4-compatible Khatod reflectors that can be fitted for better beam quality. You should be able to achieve about 120 lumens out the front on high (about double) ... at least that's what I'm hoping for, once I finish my own Apex upgrade.

Hope this helps, and good luck.


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## peteybaby (Jul 12, 2007)

Ditto on all the pro-Apex comments. I have an Apex, which I've Seouled (I call it an Apex+). Not only is the Apex bright (and the Apex+ brighter), but its coverages are useful too. With the 4 small LEDs, you get great close-up illumination and lots of run-time. The small LEDs are also a lot brighter than the old Tikka Plus and Myo5 LEDs. So already, with just the 4 small LEDs, the Apex is nice. With the big LED, you get great throw and a wider beam than many other long-throwing lights.

I've had a cheap supermarket LED flashlight that was plenty bright in the spot, but the spot was probably only about 2 feet wide at a distance of maybe 50 feet. Useless.

The Apex is also great because it can use any AA batteries. The Myo5 sucks with nimhs or old alkalines. The halogen output is useless with those. But the Apex's regulator means you can use old alkalines, nimhs, or anything else.

The only things "bad" about the Apex are that it's heavy, and it has the battery pack which makes it hard to read lying down. otoh, you can rotate the battery pack to the side of your head, which helps.

That reminds me: I once read a headlamp review where the reviewer gave the lamp bad marks because the lamp sat too low on her forehead. I don't remember which headlamp it was but it was one of the two I own, and both of them have adjustable straps, including an adjustable top strap! Duh! Just tighten up the top strap and the lamp will sit wherever you want.


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## half-watt (Jul 13, 2007)

Not sure of your precise uses for a headlamp (Caving, SAR, backpacking - nighttime navigation or just setting up camp; strolls or walks on roads or gentle paths, "birding"/"owling", working under an automobile - sure beats drop lights - IMO, or just GP/gen. use, etc.). You also mentioned an all-LED headlamp, so, i'm ignoring some hybrids (e.g., PTec Yukon Extreme or Petzl Myo hybrid series of headlamps) in my suggestions. 

Of those i own, the PT Apex is my favorite headlamp (though i've given about half of my collection away to a Boy Scout Troop, i probably still have over 30 different headlamps left). They're very easy to mod (in certain respects). I've taken one of my Apexes and cut the power cord coming from the battery box and added a jack. I have several homemade battery holders with plugs, so i can run the Apex off of different types of batteries (light weight, like a parallel-series 2x-2x3V CR123A arrangement, or a homemade 4C battery box, all the way up to a very heavy, long running stock/standard Pelican 4D battery box, or a 6VDC lantern battery). I just stick the battery box in my pocket or backpack, or clip it to my belt. Calling this mod "simple" would be an understatement. It is way easier than simple. On a scale of 1 to 10, this mod would be a 0 or a -1 - it's that simple, as y'all can imagine.

If money is no object, take a look at the Stenlight S7 (don't own it yet, but may in a month or two). FLR has a review of it, as well as a review of the Apex (which i own). The numbers show that the S7 outperforms the Apex. It better for a ~$300+ headlamp!!! However, IMO, the numbers aren't that different to justify the added cost over the Apex, except perhaps to a Caver (the S7 is built for caving, so it's VERY robust) or a Collector of "all things illuminating".

The Petzl MyoXP (which i also own) is also a fine hi-powered headlamp. Perhaps a tad less in performance (in certain respects) than the Apex, but smaller and lighter.

FoxFury makes some very high powered headlamps - particularly their "Pro" series (i only own an earlier 24x5mm LED "Performance" series, which i'd only recommend in the all white LED "tactical" version).

Brunton (which purchased Silva) makes the L3 and L5 (3-watt and 5-watt, respectively; own both), which are both nice headlamps. The L1 is not high powered and i'm not impressed with it at all. I still prefer the less expensive and similarly performing Apex

Nighthawk Digital ECO headlamp is a fine hi-powered headlamp, but a rather narrow beam with very long throw. It has about six levels of light output, IIRC. The less expensive non-digital version is nice also, but is less flexible since it only has two levels of light output. [own both of these two - anyone see a pattern developing?]

Apex was my favorite to use for nighttime navigation. It's really too bright to use for task/proximity lighting, even on 4x5mm LO output mode.

I never owned, and still don't own, any type of camera, so, sorry, i can't post any beamshots for comparison.


I've used headlamps for years when backpacking. However, last year i became aware of Fenix and so did largely discontinue using headlamps for nighttime trekking and used a Fenix for this purpose - either clipped to the brim of a ballcap or affixed to a homemade "JakStrap" of sorts. 


A Fenix flashlight is generally smaller and lighter than a more common hi-powered headlamp and can offer, if needed, greater Lumen output - all pluses for an ultralight backpacker. Burntime is decent too on lower output settings. In my case, i wanted 4-8 hours, or more, of somewhere between 9 Lumen and 15 Lumen of output from a single battery or pair of batteries when used for nighttime navigation on rough trails. So, a Fenix serves my purposes and is much lighter than the Apex - as light as a small 4x5mm headlamp (e.g. PT Quad or Petzl Zipka - own both in case anyone wants advice on task/proximity headlamps) which can pretty much be used only for task/proximity lighting or walking non-technical trails or simple paths due to the fact that most 5mm LED headlamps lack throw for spotting faded, low-contrast painted "blazes" on rocks and tree trunks which indicate turns/bends in an indistinct trail.


So, last year i started collecting flashlights too! 

Anyways, this is my first Post here, so take this advice with a grain of salt. After all, as my CPF alias implies, i'm nothing but a "half-watt" (or is that half-wit?) when it comes to the Lighting Arena.

My two shekels.


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## Sarratt (Jul 14, 2007)

Great first post "Half-Watt" and yes the Apex is still the king of regular consumer headlights.

The main beam is very strong and is good for long range looking and on low it's great for close up stuff. (High is too bright sometimes)
The 4 leds are also sometimes too bright.


Apex are also dunkable . I've heard of them being used by kyakers rolling with the light running but that could just be a tale.

But.... if you don't need this much light then don't buy it. 
It's expensive and as been said, when camping you really don't "need" a lot of light.

However ...... when you really need bright beam of light from a headlight ... Apex can't be beat.


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## etc (Jul 14, 2007)

*
taken one of my Apexes and cut the power cord coming from the battery box and added a jack. I have several homemade battery holders with plugs, so i can run the Apex off of different types of batteries (light weight, like a parallel-series 2x-2x3V CR123A arrangement, or a homemade 4C battery box, all the way up to a very heavy, long running stock/standard Pelican 4D battery box, or a 6VDC lantern battery). *

Thanks for the review. Could you be more specific how to add a bigger battery pack? How exactly do you cut the cord and what do you replace it with, and is this change permanent, can you go back to the default 4AA pack?


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## Beaker (Jul 15, 2007)

half-watt said:


> If money is no object, take a look at the Stenlight S7 (don't own it yet, but may in a month or two). FLR has a review of it, as well as a review of the Apex (which i own). The numbers show that the S7 outperforms the Apex. It better for a ~$300+ headlamp!!! However, IMO, the numbers aren't that different to justify the added cost over the Apex, except perhaps to a Caver (the S7 is built for caving, so it's VERY robust) or a Collector of "all things illuminating".



I'm a caver and regularly use the PT Apex for caving. It's probably the best bang-for-the-buck for that purpose right now.

That said, the Stenlight is frickin' amazing and IMHO the best caving light I've seen. Keep in mind that it is purpose-built for caving, which means small, light, robust, waterproof, shockproof, reliable, long-lasting battery life, and high light output (at least in bursts). At that it is currently unparalleled, but then, it is built by cavers, for cavers! If I could justify $300+ on a headlamp I would get one. I doubt it's worth the price to non-cavers, but it's really a marvel of engineering.


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## half-watt (Jul 15, 2007)

Disclaimer: The following, relatively simple procedure, should only be attempted by those who feel that they are sufficiently capable of properly completing the task. I bear no responsibility should one ruin their headlamp or short-circuit their battery box with the attendant undesirable results. Ok, bold ones, proceed at your own risk...

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0. Remove the batteries from the Apex battery pack.

1. Using a medium pair of dikes, cut the cord ~1/3 of the way forward of the Apex battery pack. This leaves enough cord left to add a male connector aka "plug" to the Apex's original battery pack. 

[Note: As you may find that you want to do this with other headlamps, decide from the "get-go" on a "standard" so that you don't connect a higher voltage pack to a lower voltage headlamp. Here's what i mean: i use RCA/Phono plugs and jacks for 4.5VDC headlamps, and 1/4" phone plugs and jacks for 6VDC headlamps. Make an extension cord with with phone jack on one end and phone plug on the other end. Make another (or use phone-2-phono and phono-2-phone adapters) with 1/4" phone connectors. In the good ole USofA i just go to Radio Shack to pick up some connectors. I'd recommend the slightly more expensive ones whose housing/shell screws on and off even though it's a plastic housing. The press fit ones are much more cheaply made now, versus eons ago when i was a kid, and sometimes the connector is damaged forcing them back on/together.]

2. Strip the outer and inner insulation back as necessary for attaching the requisite connectors subject to the NOTE immediately above.

3. Now, this is important, as this old geezer forgets ("old-timers" actin' up) every now and again to do this, place the connector shell/housing on the cable/wire (facing the correct direction!!!) BEFORE proceeding to the following steps (attaching & soldering the actual connectors).

4. since not all headlamps use red for + and black for neg, make sure that the newly stripped wires still connected to the original battery pack are NOT touching. 

5. put the batteries back into the battery pack. Then, using what VM or DMM you might have on hand, turn on, adjust to VDC range (and proper voltage range if not an auto-ranging DMM) and determine which color wire is the positive lead/wire. make note of it. 

6. Remove the batteries from the battery pack.

7. mechanically connect the positive wire to the tip or center of the plug (male) and the negative wire to the sleeve.

8. make a better electrical connection by soldering these wires in place.

9. now, if STEP #3 above was faithfully followed, then there should be a connector shell/housing already on the wire that can be joined with the connector soldered into place in STEP #7 immediately above. Ooopsie!!!! 
So, barring any "ooopsie!!!", put the connector back together.

10. Add a female connector aka "jack" (go figure why the female is the "jack" and not a "jane" or "jill", anyways...) to the end of the original cable connected to "head" (light generating unit containing the LED) of the headlamp by repeating STEPS 2 through 8 above (ignoring Steps 4-6 as unecessary at this point), substituting a jack for a plug in any references to such in the above Steps.

[Note: the same color wires should go to the tip and sleeve of the jack as was done on the plug. This does NOT mean that Steps 4 through 6 can be ignored. The positive lead should still be identified, so that the electronics, or the LED in simpler headlamps, are not reverse biased.]

10. Reconnect the original headlamp cable using the connectors you've just added by following the above procedure.

11. Put the batteries back in the original battery box and TEST all functionality of the headlamp. If it works, proceed; if not troubleshoot (i'll leave how to do this, if required, up to the "Modder").

12. At this point, you've only just made the original battery box detachable from the headlamp.

13. Get as many battery holders from the supplier of your choice (Radio Shack, Powerizer.com, etc.). 

14. Using a combination of SuperGlue and Duct tape, mechanically join the plastic battery holders/boxes, as necessary to make a single unit that would supply the requisite voltage for your application. In the case of the PT Apex, that would be 6VDC, so the proper number of batt. holders for either 4 AA, C, D cells, or 2 CR123A cells would be req'd.

15. Using a little common sense, if more than one battery holder was used in Step #14 immediately above, strip back all wires pre-attached by the Mfr. to the battery holder and connect them as necessary - only twist them together at this point - don't solder. When placing battery holder in parallel, red-2-red and black-2-black. For series connection (to increase the voltage supplied, Note that black will need to go to red or vice versa if multiple battery holders are placed in series. For example, two 2xC battery holders would be needed to make a 6VDC supply, or 4 1xCR123A batt holders for a parallel-series 2x-2xCR123A 6VDC supply, but that the final wires will always be one red (the supply's positive side) and one black (the supply's negative side). This description is a little confusing, but take a step back, look at your battery holders and think on it a bit. 


16. Add batteries to the supply and check the voltage coming from the supply using your VM, MM or DMM. If it's correct, proceed. If not, VERY QUICKLY, either pop a battery or two out of the battery boxes, or separate the wires that were just twisted together and NOT soldered in Step #15 immediately above.

17. If the correct voltage was measured in Step #16 above, remove the batteries from the batt. holders and then solder the wires together.

18. Insulate ALL soldered connections with a good high quality waterproof insulating tape. We're talking low voltage here, so you'd be surprised what has the requisite di-electric properties to satisfactorily accomplish this task. I like Nashua 357 (called by Road Racers and NASCAR, either Helicopter Tape or 200mph tape) - i call it duct-tape on steroids.

19. Dress the wires nicely and tape them down to the battery box, leaving just the overall supply's black/neg lead and red/postive lead long enough to add either a phono plug or a phone plug to the end.

20. Now follow steps 2, 3, and 6 through 9 above to attach a male plug to the battery box/supply.

21. Make an extension cord which observes the proper red-2-tip and black-2-sleeve wiring on BOTH ends/connectors. One end has either a female phono or phone jack, and the other end has the male plug of the same flavor as attached to the other end. Oh,...be sure to slid both connector housings onto the extension cord/cable, and make sure that they are facing the right directions (opposite directions from each other) before attaching the SECOND connector. Ooopsie!!! At least it's only a two-wire connector that needs to be desoldered if one forgets and not a 40-pin connector!! Don't ask!!!

22. Now, assemble the whole shebang and test it. Troubleshoot if it doesn't. Enjoy using it if it works.

Sorry, don't own, and have never owned a camera. So, no pics.

This post is already far too long, so i'll leave off here. 'Nuff said.


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## gordolights (Jul 20, 2007)

I finally bought a PT Apex just recently from Brightguy.com and I can't believe I didn't own one of these great headlamps before, it blows away my assorted incandescent Petzls and cheapo LED headlamps. Among other things, I've actually been using it as a head-mounted bike light for night riding on our property. You need to take one out for a night ride on a mountain bike in the fog!!! That's an experience - they are awesome headlamps and really cut through fog. I also just really like to keep a headlamp around, it's one of those things that you just don't know you're missing until you own one. (Like upgrading your mags with Terralux drop ins.)

Gordo
Free Union, VA

Some of my stuff: assorted TLE-6EXB upgraded mags; ROP mag, Malkoff device mag, assorted Surefire weapon lights, Fenix P1D CE, P3D CE, SL Ultra Stinger, SL Stinger LED, other assorted Streamlights, ARC AAA. 

Duty stuff: ROP mag (car), Ultrastinger & Stinger LED (duty belt), Fenix P1D CE in my shirt pocket, Surefire foreend light on my 870.


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## peteybaby (Jul 20, 2007)

I agree with Gordo's comments. Another great use for the Apex is night-skiing or night-snowboarding on unlit runs. I saw someone using some kind of headlamp for night snowboarding a few years ago, so I thought I'd try it myself. I bought the Petzl Myo5 (at the time, the most powerful headlamp in the store). It didn't work. Either because the incandescent bulb was a little weaker than when new, or (more likely) because the alkaline batteries weren't new enough (they were unused, but not newly bought), the Myo5 didn't put out enough light.

A couple of years later I bought the Apex and this past winter I tried night-snowboarding again. This time it worked. I couldn't go blazing fast, but I could go at about 80% top speed. Now that my Apex is an Apex+ (with Seoul LED), I anticipate being able to go full speed next winter.

It's great fun to combine a sport you love with a hobby you love.


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## Gryffin (Jul 23, 2007)

LedSled said:


> he Apex's TIR optic is a bit narrow and ringy for some tastes, and the Lux III is a bit weak by today's standards. However, upgrades are quite feasible. ... There are also P4-compatible Khatod reflectors that can be fitted for better beam quality. You should be able to achieve about 120 lumens out the front on high (about double) ... at least that's what I'm hoping for, once I finish my own Apex upgrade.



Keep us posted, I'd very curious how that works out for you!!

My only complaint about the Apex is that the lowest low isn't low enough. I've considered replacing the four 5mm LEDs with red ones, to both lower the output to something more appropriate for around camp, and help preserve night vision. 

Is mixing red and white lights like this a good idea?


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## LedSled (Jul 24, 2007)

Gryffin said:


> Keep us posted, I'd very curious how that works out for you!!
> 
> My only complaint about the Apex is that the lowest low isn't low enough. I've considered replacing the four 5mm LEDs with red ones, to both lower the output to something more appropriate for around camp, and help preserve night vision.
> 
> Is mixing red and white lights like this a good idea?


 
On the Lux III to P4 upgrade, the P4 is definitely about 2x brighter. I'm still fitting the Khatod 20mm reflector, but first looks suggest a narrower hot spot than the TIR optic. More throw, wider spill, but needs more accurate pointing.

On changing the 5mm LED's to a red/white mix, the real concern is the driving circuitry. PT doesn't publish schematics, so the safest approach is to leave the 5mm's alone. The P4 upgrade is a much more certain option.


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## etc (Jul 26, 2007)

I finally got it!

Comments:

The 5mm LED doesn't need 2 modes...one is enough. Unless there is substantial run time increase. The 5mm LEDs are very blue. Not white at all. They are great for reading in bed. When the Lux is too bright.

On Lux low mode, it's about as bright as the 1W PT Yukon HL that it replaced.

On high, it's bright but no "wow" factor. About as bright as any 3w lite. Not sure about the run time, I don't think I am getting 4 hours with NiMH 2700 mAh cells that was previously reported. It kicks out of Lux high mode into the Lux on low mode. That's with Maha Powerex 2700 mAh. I need to try Eneloops in it but somehow feel that will reduce the run time even further. I need to time it to get a solid idea how much run time it's getting.

4AA is a very good idea! 

Fit is very nice. Doesn't feel heavy.

Construction is very solid. In particular, I Like the battery case.

Overall, a solid 4 stars. Definitely an improvement over the PT Yukon HL which is just totally dim in comparison. 

My main wish that it was brighter on high Lux. 

I will have to mod it with P4 Seoul.


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## peteybaby (Jul 26, 2007)

I just got home from watching fireworks. On the way back to the car, my gf and I rollerbladed out through the masses, with me leading the way using the Apex+ (Apex with Seoul). It's like I'm Moses parting the Red Sea. People scurry out of the way. And the comments I heard brought a smile to my face:

- hey a headlamp! that's a good idea!
- (with helicopter sound in the distance) oh we're in the spotlight!... oh no it's not the spotlight...
- that's a frickin good headlamp you got there dude!

There were more but I don't remember.


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## half-watt (Jul 26, 2007)

peteybaby said:


> I just got home from watching fireworks. On the way back to the car, my gf and I rollerbladed out through the masses, with me leading the way using the Apex+ (Apex with Seoul). It's like I'm Moses parting the Red Sea. People scurry out of the way. And the comments I heard brought a smile to my face:
> 
> - hey a headlamp! that's a good idea!
> - (with helicopter sound in the distance) oh we're in the spotlight!... oh no it's not the spotlight...
> ...




go for it peteybaby! you rule the night!


REAL MEN WEAR HEADLAMPS!!!


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## ltiu (Jul 26, 2007)

peteybaby said:


> I just got home from watching fireworks. On the way back to the car, my gf and I rollerbladed out through the masses, with me leading the way using the Apex+ (Apex with Seoul). It's like I'm Moses parting the Red Sea. People scurry out of the way. And the comments I heard brought a smile to my face:
> 
> - hey a headlamp! that's a good idea!
> - (with helicopter sound in the distance) oh we're in the spotlight!... oh no it's not the spotlight...
> ...



Careful don't get mugged.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 26, 2007)

greenLED said:


> The Apex and the Eos are the leaders of the pack around CPF these days. The Eos especially, since it's relatively easy to mod into using a Seoul LED. I have 3 Eos  and an Apex Pro.
> 
> If I were to change anything on the Apex, it'd be more differentiation between the levels. Other than that, it's a great headlamp for outdoor work. I'm not even sure I'd mod it with a Seoul to make it brighter. OK, it'd be great if it had more runtime, but that's just how things are with the Pro version (if you want more runtime, go with the regular Apex then).
> 
> The Eos is more compact, versatile, I like the levels a little better, and I can read comfortably with it at night, since the batteries are at the front. The stock optic gives a tight beam, but that's OK for me, except when I'm reading at night. For that reason alone, I've changed the optic for a reflector in one of my Eos.


Hey GreenLed, is the Apex Pro brighter than the regular version?


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## greenLED (Jul 26, 2007)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Hey GreenLed, is the Apex Pro brighter than the regular version?


AFAIK, the only difference is in the battery type, not in the emitter or the current. I don't have a regular Apex to compare against my Apex Pro (even then, the difference could be do to individual emitter variations).


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## LedSled (Jul 26, 2007)

greenLED said:


> AFAIK, the only difference is in the battery type, not in the emitter or the current. I don't have a regular Apex to compare against my Apex Pro (even then, the difference could be do to individual emitter variations).


It's a safe bet that both the Apex and Apex Pro also use the same current-regulating buck-type power supply, which means that the battery's voltage must exceed the emitter's Vf, or forward drop. Using 4 AA NiMH cells gives about 4.8v, while 2 CR123's gives about 6v ... quite a bit more headroom. The standard Apex is pretty sensitive to NiMH cell quality. Under load, 4 worn-out AA's won't deliver 4.8v.

The up-side to all of this is that the Seoul P4's Vf's are a bit lower than the Lux III, meaning that an Apex+ will give better run times with NiMH AA's, especially with tired cells.

Either way (Lux III or P4), you can wire-in your own 4D or 6v lantern belt pack for really long run times.


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## Icarus (Jul 28, 2007)

Does anyone know if it's safe to use R123's in the Apex pro? :thinking:


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## LedSled (Jul 28, 2007)

Icarus said:


> Does anyone know if it's safe to use R123's in the Apex pro? :thinking:


CPF members AW and markcm both sell protected and regulated R123's that should be fine. There are other sellers, as well. You'll need the protection to avoid over-discharge damage. I can't say that the regulation is absolutely necessary. If it is, you'll find out in a hurry when you plug in freshly charged unregulated R123 cells ... blink! ... darkness! Been there!


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## cave dave (Jul 28, 2007)

The circuit will handle protected R123's. However they will die in about an hour on high with no warning whatsoever when the battery protection kicks in. The Apex Pro will stay regulated and give you a warning flash at 3.6v but thats only 1.8v per cell. That will trash a unregulated cell. 

Its also not advisable to depend on RCR protection circuit on a regular basis. Its meant as a failsafe not a regular thing.

Is anybody else concerned about 2 Li batteries on your head with all the explosions going on? There is no lockout on the Pro and it turns on real easily by itself which could easily cause an over drain issue in your pack. Best not to store batteries inside.


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## TorchBoy (Jul 30, 2007)

cave dave said:


> Is anybody else concerned about 2 Li batteries on your head with all the explosions going on?


I'd have to say that concerns me sufficiently to not want to get into lithium batteries for torches. The likelyhood of damaging my cells simply by using them is a worry too, even if there isn't an explosion.


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## ringzero (Jul 30, 2007)

cave dave said:


> Is anybody else concerned about 2 Li batteries on your head with all the explosions going on? There is no lockout on the Pro and it turns on real easily by itself which could easily cause an over drain issue in your pack. Best not to store batteries inside.




I'm concerned.

This is merely one more reason that I no longer will consider CR123a LED lights for outdoor use.

CR123a LED lights no longer have signifigant performance advantages over AA LED lights.

Quality CR123a cells are too expensive and too scarce outside of cities. Cheaper CR123a cells ordered online seem more likely to produce "venting with flame" events.

Rechargeable lithiums probably make sense for the really hardcore, week-long-expedition cavers. They will choose Stenlight or Scurion or a similar headlamp.

For more typical weekend caving and general outdoor use, LED lights that can run AA NiMH, Lithium, or Alkaline are a far better way to go.

.


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## ArisaemaDracontium (Aug 5, 2007)

*OT: apex mod*

I've noticed a few people in this thead have mentioned that they have modified their Apexes with a Seoul P4 to increase the light output. I would really like to do this to my Apex but it seems like it will be a much more difficult process then doing the same upgrade to a EOS. I have posted a thread asking for advice, PLEASE follow the link below to help me out.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/171344

Thanks,


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## cave dave (Aug 5, 2007)

*Re: OT: apex mod*

Use the search tool there are several threads on modding the Apex. No need to add another, and you are going to have to read all of them anyway. I think the Apex is easier to mod than the EOS, since you don't have to break it open.

PS Petzl is going to start using high flux LED's, I wonder when PT will catch up.

EDIT: here are all the threads with Apex in the title:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/search.php?searchid=2617451


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