# Sunwayman M11R Mr. Elfin (XM-L U2 | 1 x R/CR123) Review



## turboBB (Mar 23, 2012)

I might be compact (and some may dare call me cute) but to you, it's still *Mr. Elfin SIR!!* 


*MFG SPECS
*MSRP: $78USD
● CREE XM_L U2 LED, with a lifetime of up to 50,000 hours;
● Output and Runtime of three constant output modes (uses one CR123A)
- 180 Lumens (1.5hrs) - 60 Lumens (10hrs) - 4 Lumens (70hrs)
- Turbo Mode: 230 Lumens (uses one 16340 battery, do not run the light continuously at turbo mode for more than 10 minutes)
- Two Hidden Modes: Strobe, SOS
● Digital Sensor Magnetic Control system, slightly twist the rotator ring to select from different modes
● Constant current circuit, constant output
● Effective range of 130 meters
● Uses one single CR123A (RCR123A/16340) battery
● Working voltage: 0.9~4.2V
● High quality OP reflector maintains great throw distance and spread with an ideal beam pattern
● Dimensions: 75mm (length) x 23.2mm (head diameter)
● Weight: 45.5g（battery excluded）
● Aerospace-grade aluminum alloy
● Military Specification Type III- hard anodized body
● Waterproof, in accordance with IPX-8 standard
● Ultra-clear tempered glass lens resists scratches and impacts
● Tail stand capable- can be used as a candle
● Accessories: Clip, Holster, O-ring, lanyard


*SIZE*






L to R: AW IMR | Zebralight SC30 | Sunwayman M11R Mr. Elfin | SureFire E1E | Sunwayman V10R Ti 


*MEASURED PERFORMANCE
*As part of my new standards for my reviews, I measure the performance on my PVC LMD by first calibrating the sensor's positon w/a Xeno G10v2 (immediately perfectly regulated in med. mode):




*

**

*
L: Quick calibration w/G10v2 in M | M: Mr. Elfin SIR!! shortly after turn-on :devil: | R: Lux @ 1m

Mr. Elfin is rather particular about his outputs depending on the battery being used. Case in point, Turbo (replaces H) can only be achieved via 4.2v LiIon (regardless ICR or IMR). Even LiFePO4 and primary cells create different outputs. Below are what I've measured for 3 different battery types.
*
AW16340
Turbo - 288lms (~1600lux @ 1m) | Med - 82lms | Low - .3lms
**

 *

 


Turbo was taken @ roughly 37 seconds but was 288 @ 31 seconds*

LiFePO4
Turbo - 137.8lms | Med - 29.2lms | Low - .3lms


 

 

 

SF123
Turbo - 215lms | Med - 55.4lms | Low - .3lms
*

 

 



The LiFePO4 output is rather curious since I had expected it to be higher than for the primary given the nominal v. I'll recheck its measurement and add a RCR3.0V as well.


*BEAMSHOTS*
*Beam angle
*[to come]

*Indoors (5m)*
AW16340 Turbo


 

 



AW16340 Med


 

 



AWIMR Turbo


 

 



AWIMR Med


 

 



SF123 High


 

 



SF123 Med


 

 



TNGY LiFePO4 High


 

 



TNGY LiFePO4 Med


 

 



ENLP XX AA High


 

 



ENLP XX AA Med


 

 


For details of the above indoor shots and comparo vs. many other lights, please check Epic Indoor Shots Trilogy

*Whitewall Hunting
*I've been receiving a bunch of requests to produce white wall beamshots so I decided to use selfbuilt's exposure settings (clockwise: 1/25, 1/100, 1/800, 1/1600 @ f2.9 on AWB) to allow for some consistency (and thus reference) in these shots (however, in my shots, the light is ~.4m to wall / camera ~.59m) . Of course they will never perfectly match up due to differences between our cameras.

The first set is on AW IMR's and second on LiFePO4's to allow you to compare the difference between Turbo vs. High modes.

AW IMR











LIFEPO4


*








QUICK WALL SHOT COMPARO vs. V10-R XP-G (not color corrected)*



L: M11R | V10R Ti (XP-G)


*RUNTIME
*The relevant battery stats are provided above each runtime graph along with: - Voltage of the battery at the start and end of the test
- Current draw as taken right before the test
- Actual runtime using ANSI FL1 (first in HR and then in M so for the TNGY read this as 1.3 Hrs _OR_ 86 Min)
- Also captured the temperature: ambient, the head at start and the max it reached (fan was used w/all bats) ​




Turbo can only be achieved through the use of LiIon RCR's. Case in point, the yellow run is for a LiFePO4 and would not enter Turbo mode. Sunwayman doesn't provide the runtime on RCR's since they warn against running in Turbo for longer than 10 minutes, however, as you can see above the temp doesn't really get too bad (keep in mind though this is w/a fan on). As for the runtime on High, they quote 1.5 hrs on primaries and given that I was able to achieve 1.4hrs using LiFePO4's which have very little capacity, I expect that runtime to be met if not exceeded.

Also, looks like this can be a battery vampire provided the light remains on during the entire run. Case in point, the AW IMR and LiFePO4 were both overdischarged. I can't recall if the PCB kicked-in w/the AW ICR but if using RCR's, it'll be best to stick w/protected cells.

I had a used primary w/resting voltage of 2.89 and was able to power all modes. Another w/resting v of 2.57 wouldn't even turn on in low mode. I was hoping that this would indeed be a true battery vampire (ha, Mr. Elfin... the battery vampire) since I have a few primaries I'd love to drain completely.


*WE ARE FAMILY, I'VE GOT MY BROTHERS, SISTERS & ME!
**

**

*
Mr. Elfin's head/body is completely interchangeable with his V brethrens.


*

**

* 


MORE TO COME...



=======
Disclosure: M11R purchased from CPFMP AD


----------



## turboBB (Mar 23, 2012)

Literally just got this in and sorry, not full blown review yet. However, I'll add to it as time allows but likely won't get to it soon since I have a few other reviews queued up.

However, I think I've captured the more important details that inquiring minds would like to know but in the meanwhile, any questions just ask away.

My initial conclusion after a few minutes: You must address this one as Mr. Elfin *SIR!!*

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## TEEJ (Mar 23, 2012)

Thanks Tim!

Looking forward to your conclusions!


----------



## tobrien (Mar 23, 2012)

very cool! i'll keep tabs on this thread. you rock!


----------



## Kilovolt (Mar 24, 2012)

Nice, thanks for sharing!


----------



## Sgt. LED (Mar 24, 2012)

Bezel
Lens
Reflector
Or entire head interchange with your Ti V10R??
I want to at the very least put my Ti bezel ring on Elfin. Should look nice! 

It kinda looks like a no-go from here but they aren't side by side.


----------



## flashologist (Mar 24, 2012)

I'm curious if you are able to comment on the size of the 11 vs the M10R in terms of general handling... thanks!


----------



## Draven451 (Mar 24, 2012)

What does Mrs. Elfin think of something so compact and small with such powerful and bright lumens? :naughty:


----------



## peterharvey73 (Mar 24, 2012)

Your light box looks really beautiful...


----------



## turboBB (Mar 25, 2012)

Thx guys!

@Sgt. LED - check new pics in OP. I didn't try the bezels but I'm pretty sure they're interchangeable as well.

@flasholigist - I don't have a M10R it's measurements are nearly identical to the V10R. The M11R is slightly smaller and given there is no tailswitch, no reason to hold it in an overhand grip in which case it might be a bit small. Underhand grip is perfect and allows for easy action of the control ring. Hope that helps but perhaps if someone who actaully owns the two can chime, that'd be great.

@Draven - dunno about Mrs. Elfin but Mrs. turboBB has claimed Mr. Elfin as her EDC now. 

@Peter - Thx! I continued to be impressed by how reasonably in the ballpark it is, its ease of making easily repeatble (and more importantly consistent) measurement after a quick calibration w/a perfectly regulated light before testing (also you've got PM). I'm actually not done with it just yet but beyond what I have in mind aesthetics-wise I really don't plan on changing a thing w/it given how it's performed thus far. If I can make it out to PF18, I'll be bringing it w/me for it to be judged by a panel of peers. =o)


----------



## candle lamp (Mar 25, 2012)

Thanks for your excellent review. turboBB! :thumbsup:
The light looks very cute as you mentioned. I'm waiting for it


----------



## PilotBart (Mar 28, 2012)

Nice light and review. Thanks for your effort.


----------



## turboBB (Apr 3, 2012)

Thx guys! Runtime & Whitewall shots on Turbo/High now added.


----------



## tobrien (Apr 3, 2012)

nice beam shots man!

so i take it this light has to go through all the modes if you wanna turn it on to whatever mode is last on the dial?

also, when using with a 16340, is there a special trick to getting it to turn on in Turbo? or is it simply dial it up to max on the ring and it'll do it without any special trick?


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 3, 2012)

Nice review turboBB. :thumbsup: The beamshots look good. 

I like the look of the build, with the grippier control ring, sturdier attached clip, and tailstanding with spilt-ring attachement. Good to see the threading diameter has remained consistent, so that lego-ing is possible across the series.


----------



## turboBB (Apr 4, 2012)

All, I've added some more material including output measurements for different battery types. Will continue to flesh out as time allows.

@tobrien - Thx! Correct, this is not like the V-series w/a dedicated tailcap that serves as primary on/off. The UI and on/off is controlled entirely by the ring and goes from Off -> L -> M -> H/T. As expalined in the measured performance section, Turbo can only be invoked by using a 4.2v LiIon and will replace H. The battery type also affects each output level (except low). Check OP for details.

@selfbuilt - Thx! I'm merely continuing the standard you've set. =o) I've some minor gripes about the ring (could stand to be a little firmer) and clip (rubs against body when unscrewing head) but other than that love everything else about this little guy so far. =o)

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## tobrien (Apr 5, 2012)

turboBB said:


> All, I've added some more material including output measurements for different battery types. Will continue to flesh out as time allows.
> 
> @tobrien - Thx! Correct, this is not like the V-series w/a dedicated tailcap that serves as primary on/off. The UI and on/off is controlled entirely by the ring and goes from Off -> L -> M -> H/T. As expalined in the measured performance section, Turbo can only be invoked by using a 4.2v LiIon and will replace H. The battery type also affects each output level (except low). Check OP for details.
> 
> ...


got it, thanks!


----------



## Pöbel (Apr 5, 2012)

The Ring is only oiled, not greased like on the V series. I removed the oil and put in some heavy grease, now the ring runs a bit firmer. If you tighten down the head without the ring locking up, you get no play and smooth operation.

There has also been a little spacer between the head and lower bezel, i removed this one as well.


----------



## KuanR (Apr 7, 2012)

I just picked the the M11R up today, and it's now taken place of my Xtar WK21 for EDC. It's a great light! I'm not 100% sure of my Ultrafire protected 16340's are going into Turbo mode though


----------



## Racer (Apr 7, 2012)

Thank you for the great review, turboBB. Looks like a fantastic light. My only question is: who is Mister Elfin? I wonder if he knows he's famous now.

I wish SWM put clips this good on all their lights. Clearly SWM is doing pretty much everything right.


----------



## turboBB (Apr 7, 2012)

All, Indoor 5m shots added. Given broad voltage ranged, I've covered most battery types that it can accomodate.

@Pöbel - correct, there isn't the thick grease like on the V series and thx for the tip on the grease, I'll give it a shot in the future.

@KuanR - Congrats on the pick up! I just got a WK21 but haven't had time to do a comparo yet. 

@Racer - Thx! Not sure of the origin of Mr. Elfin but I aim to find out! )


----------



## trevordurden (Apr 8, 2012)

Can you please explain how you get into the 2 "hidden" strobe modes? I've been puzzling over how it's done on a ring interface for quite some time now.


----------



## turboBB (Apr 8, 2012)

From Turbo/High, twist ring to Med and then immediately back to Turbo/High. It'll first enter Strobe, repeat within 1 second to enter SOS.

So:

Turbo/High -> Med -> Turbo/High = Strobe (which now replaces the Turbo/High mode)

within 1 second of engaging Strobe

Strobe (Turbo/High) -> Med -> Turbo/High = SOS

repeat again to enter back into Strobe

Neither hidden mode is memorized.

Hope that helps,
Tim


----------



## trevordurden (Apr 9, 2012)

Yes it does, this interface sounds very practical for my needs. However, these new Sunwayman light look like they belong in a display case rather than beat up like a EDC light to me. I'd probably treat it like Nigel's guitar (skip ahead to 1 min):


----------



## turboBB (Apr 14, 2012)

Hey sorry all, this one has to go on the back burner for a while... 

In meanwhile, Sgt. LED, here you go:
















Strangely though, the old V10A refuses to screw onto the M11R or V11R (but will thread most way on the V10R Ti+)::





Whereas the bezels between the V11R, M11R & V10R Ti are all interchangeable amongst each other and will screw on to the V10A without any issues. 

I have quite a bit in the queue so will not be getting back to this for a bit, in meanwhile, any questions/requests, just ask.

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## KuanR (Apr 14, 2012)

I have been carrying this light everyday for the past week, but because I don't use the holster and hang it on my belt, the light has managed to catch on to things and the clip gets bent. I took it off a few times already to bend it back, but in the process the 2 hex screws holding the clip is starting to strip (the head, not the threads). Does anyone know where I can get the 2 tiny replacement screws?


----------



## turboBB (Apr 15, 2012)

I'm reasonably certain your local hardware store should stock these metric screws but I don't know the TPI or size but at local Home Depot here, they have sizing nuts where you can thread the hex bolt through to figure out the TPI/diameter then it's just a matter of finding the right length.

Since you mentioned the head is getting stripped, you might not have the correct size metric hex key (should be 2.0), so if you don't already have it, you may wish to pick one up as well.

Of course you can try contacting the dealer you purchased from or posting a help request on Sunwayman's MFG thread over on CPFMP.

Cheers,
Tim


----------



## EspionageStudio.Com (Jun 11, 2012)

Great review! Very much appreciated, im liking Mr. Elfin.


----------



## iowatollah (Jun 26, 2012)

pobel, I just recieved my Mr. Elfin and am wondering how you able to remove the lubricant under the ring and induce grease to tighten the operation. I can't figure out how to remove the ring.


----------



## dajab77 (Mar 22, 2013)

Just read this nice review. I'm thinking about getting one. Does anyone have any new (since the last post of 6/26/12) info or experiences with this light. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## maxlightcp (Apr 25, 2013)

I just purchased one about 2 weeks ago. I carry a lot of gear on me and wanted something lighter and with a lower ride than my SureFire Backup. The Position of the clip allows me to close the flap completely on my cargo pants which I wear all the time so I can carry all my stuff.

The light is a flood of course, however the beam is solid with good coverage as described before. The magnetic ring works good for me, it could use more tension but so far has not switched on by itself. The 3 light output settings work perfect for me. Its a EDC for sure.

I have many lights, and for fit, function, and price I would rate it 4/5. Hope, this helps, I believe you will not be disappointed with the M11R U2.


----------



## willydigger (Jun 21, 2013)

How does the L-M-H switch on the M11R compare to the variable on the V11R? I absolutely hated the ring on the V11R. It would turn in the pocket and you never knew what level it would be on with turning it on. I would much prefer a simple setting like the M11R, but I fear the detent will be weak at each step.

Is the M11R ring detent solid or junk? Has anyone had one come on in your pocket because of a weak detent?

Regarding the grease and oil, the V11R uses grease that squeezes out. It made my ring turn tight for a moment and then loosen. Does the M11R ring have some consistency?


----------



## turboBB (Jun 22, 2013)

The ring detents on my M11R while OK could stand to be a little firmer but thus far, I don't believe I've had issues with it turning on by itself during pocket carry. There is minimal grease in the ring and I can feel the anodized surfaces rubbing against each other but the feeling is consistent throughout the entire travel.

Hope that helps.

Tim


----------



## willydigger (Jun 29, 2013)

I decided it was best to just buy it and see for myself. 

First off here are some pics of the light compared to my wonderful BC10.

























I would rate the control ring on a scale of 1-10, 1 being loose, as a 4. I decided I wanted to try and make it better. So I took apart the control ring. I did a quick Google on how to disassemble the control ring. I found this awesome thread on the V10r (which is essentially the same as the V11r, M10r, and M11r).
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?330939-Sunwayman-V10A-V10R-control-ring-anatomy
After a quick read I went at it.

I wrapped the light with blue painters tape first so everything would come off easy. Duct tape can leave a residue.





Here is the bottom of the reflector section. There is a loose washer/o-ring so be careful you don't lose it.





It looks like it was held on with blue loc-tite. It certainly wasn't red.





Here is the body of the light with the ring removed. Notice the unfinished aluminum peaking out. Also notice the notch at the top of the shiny aluminum ring. This is the stop for the control ring.





Here is the control ring. The shiny piece at 5 o'clock is the control magnet. The piece at 4 o'clock in the spring. There is a ball detent under the spring. The ball detent is used to set the position of the Low-Med-High (I,II,III).





Here is the underside of the control ring with the ball detent.





Here is a top view of the mating portion of the control ring. You can see the stop at 9 o'clock and you can see the detent holes that the ball will set in. 





I wiped away the light oil that was under the control ring and replaced it with Green Grease (an automotive super tacky grease). I added a small piece of plastic in the spring hole to add more tension to the ball detent. 

After all the mods, on the same 1-10, the ring was a looseness 4. Now I'd rate it at 6. I'd rate the V11r as a looseness 6 too. 

If you go this route, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SEVERAL LAYERS OF DUCT TAPE SO THE PLIERS TEETH DON'T GET TO THE ANODIZED BODY.


----------



## willydigger (Jul 5, 2013)

I did some more modding on the M11R. After removing the control ring originally and replacing it with grease, I found the factory detent holes where the ball engages for each setting wasn't deep enough. While the grease made the ring much easier to turn, the ball would not engage enough. I assume because the spring tension is relatively weak and the grease may have filled the detent hole.

So I took it back apart. I had ordered some Dow Vaccuum grease NLGI 3-4 and wanted to try it. The goal for the second disassembly was to change the grease, deepen the detent hole, and adjust the spring tension. Here are some pics.

Here it is with the top off and the LED covered. 






Here is a partial shot of two cut out detent holes. Notice the two bright silver ones, and the factory stock detent.





Here are all 4 detents (Off-I-II-III) cut out. I deepened the hole and widened it, so the ball would sit deeper in the hole.





An alternate pic. It didn't have to be pretty since the control ring covers everything.





Now the control ring in smooth to turn. The grease is firm, but not too thick that it can't be turned one handed. The detents engage the ball at each set for a secure feel. Overall I'm very happy with it.

I deepened the holes with a variable speed Dremel. 

Here is a quick EDC dump pic with the new light.


----------



## willydigger (Jul 5, 2013)

Has any one mounted the M11R to the V11R body to have a clicky option? If so (or if someone can answer this), does the light ramp up that same as the normal V11R? When you turn on the V11R with the clicky there is slight delay. I was wondering if it was the same if you used the M11R.


----------



## Pöbel (Jul 5, 2013)

what makes me wonder is the rough finish below your control ring. This looks like a quick and dirty last minute fix from Sunwayman. My M11R is completely anodized even below the control ring.


----------



## turboBB (Jul 5, 2013)

@willdigger - nice write up on the tear down! should prove useful for those looking to do the same. As for mounting the V11R's tube w/the M11R's head, there is no delay, it comes on instantly. This "soft-ramp" is inherent to the V11R's circuitry and is not in the switch (which is just a basic mechanical forward-clicky).


----------



## naked2 (Dec 14, 2013)

If they made this thing with XP-G2, I'd buy one right now. 

My first Sunwayman was a V10A XP-G; I love its beam. I had it bored for 17500 and still carry it every day. Only now, the ring is pretty loose, and always ends up turning to minimum in my pocket. I like the Idea of the detents, and could give up infinitely variable for three solid clicks, but XM-L in _any _reflector this size is a deal breaker _for me_. 

I had a V10R XM-L; I hated the beam and sold it. Maybe I'll try disassembling my V10A and re-grease it for now.


----------



## naked2 (Dec 18, 2013)

OK, I'll eat my words; I just ordered a M11R from GoingGear at a substantial discount!


----------



## Paul6ppca (Dec 24, 2013)

Ive put the M11 into the EDC rotation for 5 months now,I really like the ui.I agree with willydiggers idea to deepen the detents for a nicer ,more secure feel.,but mine has never turned on in my pocket.
After using it for a few months,I decided to get the AA adapter,an unexpected benifit of running AA if you want ,or 14500(which was my intent). 
I found the Low on alkaline AA to be a _*super *_*LOW moonlight mode!*

I would say its at least *half of my thrunite T20* (firefly 0.09lumens 195hours)So if you want a great low Moonlight mode this will be lower than most!


----------



## naked2 (Dec 24, 2013)

Got mine; don't like it! :shakehead Horrible beam, as anticipated, although hoped against. Insulator ring around (+) terminal rattles in the head; checked two small screws and they were tight . Turns on to low clipped to my pocket; third time it happened, it ran my SolarForce 16340 'til it tripped the protection circuit before I noticed :thumbsdow(never got hot, due to low low).


Tried it for a couple of days with my V10A 17500 body, which obviously ends the accidental turn-on, but I can't use the Elf body with the V head.  Although low _is_ super low, high isn't that impressive, and certainly no brighter than my V10A. :shakehead Also, for my taste, medium is way too close to high, leaving a huge gap between low and medium, compared to what I'm used to with my V10A.:candle:


Will be sending it back ASAP. I think I'll just continue to love my V10A 17500, although I'll attempt to improve the dampness of its ring.


----------



## T45 (Jan 10, 2014)

Paul6ppca said:


> Ive put the M11 into the EDC rotation for 5 months now,I really like the ui.I agree with willydiggers idea to deepen the detents for a nicer ,more secure feel.,but mine has never turned on in my pocket.
> After using it for a few months,I decided to get the AA adapter,an unexpected benifit of running AA if you want ,or 14500(which was my intent).
> I found the Low on alkaline AA to be a _*super *_*LOW moonlight mode!*
> 
> I would say its at least *half of my thrunite T20* (firefly 0.09lumens 195hours)So if you want a great low Moonlight mode this will be lower than most!



I lego'd my M11R head to my M10A body and the low is firefly low Like Paul6ppca says. I had found the M11R turned on low once in my pocket, but with the M10A body and switch that won't happen. I like the UI. I lost my Maratac AA a while back and this setup is a great replacement. I can select the level I want with the selector ring with one hand.


----------

