# PIC-O-PWM (POP) micro-P DIY & Video



## djpark (Feb 23, 2005)

_*Edit*: This thread started with the original Subject line "*Arc-AAA-Lux Multi Brightness Multi Feature*" to introduce the Arc-AAA head modded with a Luxeon and POP (PIC-O-PWM) driver. Now it is turned to a gallery of lights modded with the POP driver. The subject line is changed to reflect it. 

*Edit*: New version of POP driver is made with more features. There is new post below.

*Edit*: DIY Kit soldering instruction and usage instruction video is added at later post.
_


I have tasted the sweetness of using PIC micro-processors to control the brightness and provide more features to the lights during H&M Contest 2004, and it rewarded me with well.

Class 2: Arc-AA 8mm ISP + Micro-P Multi Brightness
Class 4: Pager Light with 6 * 100mA LED & micro-P 

Since then, I made a few more pills with 8mm led. But I have been always wanting to use the similar logic to control a Luxeon led for Arc-AA or AAA. So at last I got this done.


*
Arc-AAA-Luxeon-POPL with Multi-brightness, Multi-feature using PIC Mirco-Processor*

- Using AAA size li-ion erchargeable battery (300mAh)
- High (300mA) and low (50mA) brightness levels using PWM
- Constant current regulation
- Turn on to last used brightness level
- Survival mode with super low current (15mA)
- Strobe mode and SOS mode

Changing brightness level is done by turning on the light, turn off within 1 second and turn on again. Current regulation is done using TPS73101 and I owe this knowledge to Doug_S.

Survival mode is not on PWM, but direct output from PIC io pin.

5th turning on triggers survival mode (dim mode). 6th turning on triggers strobe mode (5 Hz) and 7th turning on triggers SOS mode.


* Head construction *







I used a blank (no HA) Arc-AAA head acquired long ago and ground the front section deeper to U-shape to make it a better reflector. It is not perfect since I had to work with hand tools only, but reasonable after polishing.

I added a little epoxy to top part of the plastic led holder along the side of the dome. This strengthens the bonding of the dome to led so that it will not drop out. It also seals the dome, so it can be exposed to the environment without using a lens or optic to cover. A bit of GID powder was mixed in the epoxy, so it gives slight hint of blue-green when the light is off.

I cut a small piece of aluminum sheet to a round shape as the heatsink. It is made to be very tight fit within the Arc-AAA head cavity. I don't have thermal epoxy, so I mixed Arctic Silver 5 with Devcon 5 minutes epoxy and applied between the Luxeon slug and the heatsink. Then it is inserted in to the head with some force. Then a little more epoxy was added at the back of the heatsink to fix it to the wall. It appears to be quite acceptable. When I turn on the light on high level, the head gets warm pretty fast, but not too hot at 300mA. 700mA made the head quite hot.

The controller board has only 3 SMT parts -- PIC12F675, TPS73101 and 0.1uF capacitor. They are put on the original Arc board after stripping all parts and pcb traces. Without having a facility for pcb making, I had to resort to 3D soldering and also have to skip the reverse battery protection as used by Doug_S.

Crimp back, then the new head is ready.


* Beamshots *

The Luxeon I use is taken out from Arc-LSH-P and it gives very nice warm tint and I like it. I paid a big buck to get this warm tint.

Due to the poor reflector I made, the hot spot is smaller than 17mm IMS reflector and more to the flood. But it still has a small hot spot in the center and the it is quite well focused. Not just flat flood output.

The following pictures are taken with the light on the floor and 50cm away from the wall. High and low brightness with different camera setting. f2.8 2 seconds exposure gives me the picture closest perception to my eye adjusted to the darkness.






Ceiling 3m away.






To compare the brightness of survival mode.






Not to forget the strobe and SOS mode.










* Run time *

This run time chart of the light running on High brightness level. The low brightness level is on logging now and it is still showing no sign of brightness change after 2 hours.






The brightness went up a little during the initial 2 minutes. Then it stayed very flat till 45 minutes when the battery nearly got used up. The sun mode is followed by 15 minutes of gradual dropping moon mode plus long period of star mode.

Considering the battery capacity 300mAh and the current draw 300mA, this run time seems very acceptable.

One thing good about the LDO regulation of li-ion cell is that it never bring the battery voltage below 2.5V with white led since the current will simply drop when the voltage drops. So the over-discharge protection is not necessary.

Here is a logging done with 14500 (AA) li-ion battery, measured battery voltage, current draw and the relative brightness.






The battery was charged during H&M Contest, that means about 6 months in storage. Then it still gave more than 600mAh worth discharge from 700mAh battery capacity.

The battery voltage dropped below 4V immediately, then gradually dropped to 3.2V next 110 minutes. During this period, the brightness and the current flow is very flat. It started showing sign of going off current regulation at 3.2V. Then 15 minutes of moon mode followed by many hours of star mode.

It indicates that the Vf of the Luxeon taken out of LSH-P is very low and the current limit of TPS73101 is very stable.

I will add run time chart of low brightness level when the logging is complete.

Enjoy!

-- dj

_*Edit:* The current values were changed according to the actual measurement._


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## sithjedi333 (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Wow, insane work!!! This is my dream light. Any chance this is commercially available as a light or do-it-yourself kit?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif


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## AW (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I 'm in for a DIY kit if available. Very brilliant work!!


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## AuroraLite (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-feature*

Wow, that is one sweeeeeeeet light!! Very interesting indeed! 3rd in line? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## PEU (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-feature*

Great /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif

DJ, your work with PICs inspired me to start learning PIC programmming and also inspired my LEON project.

Thanks


Pablo


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## cy (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

WOW forth in line...


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## bmstrong (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

5th. I can supply you with my Arc...


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## MY (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

6th in line. I can provide the ARC with an extra thrown in for thanks.

Regards.


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## djpark (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Thanks for the favorable comments. They encourage me a lot to go on.

To provide a DIY kit for this mod, there are a few things to consider.

The most time consuming and exhausting part of this mod is grinding the head to enhance the reflector and also cutting the heatsink to fit tight in the head. Unless someone can use a machine to shape the reflector, it is going to be your work to do.

Alternatively arc-AA head can provide adequate reflector without grinding further, just enlarge the hole.

I don't have a good source of nice Luxeon leds. I reply on a few pieces brought by local cpfers. You may have a better source. Likewise the Arc head and body. Of course you can use your own ones.

I can provide pre-programmed PIC and TPS regulator. I suggest 350mA version for AAA head, 450mA version for AA head and 800mA version for bigger lights.

-- dj


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## sithjedi333 (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

djpark,

Thanks for considering the kit idea. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Couple of questions/comments for general discussion:
1) Can the grinding and cutting be done with a Dremel tool? If so, that would make many more people able to do it, because this tool is widely available and in the hands of many modders.

2) Buying LEDs separately is no problem, they are available from a lot of vendors on B/S/T.

3) For the head and body, could we use the Peak LED lights? These are much more available and affordable and are quite similar from what I have seen.

Overall I think this is quite doable. Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## djpark (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I finished the logging of the low brightness level, but find that the logged data is invalid. It went on for more than 9 hours and there was a power failure in between for 1 hour.

That also triggered me to think why it went on longer than expected. So I measured the current flow of the light and found that the initial current values posted were based on expectation and not the actual meter reading.

According to datasheet, TPS73101 has current limitation of min 150mA, typical 360mA and max 500mA. So I expected 350mA, but last 2 pieces I used gave me between 300 and 310mA current flow.

The low mode is PWM of 30% duty cycle and I estimated the current to be around 100mA. But I forgot the fact that TPS73101 has high input capacitance and about 10% of 125Hz was needed to enable the chip. So the current measured using a DMM (I don't claim to be accurate RMS) of 50-60mA is in accordance to the 20% effective PWM output.

For survival mode, a PIC io pin can source up to 25mA current. But when connected to this Luxeon, it took only about 15mA current.

So the original post is modified to reflect the actual current reading. Sorry for unintended misleading if there was any.

-- dj


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## djpark (Feb 23, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*sithjedi333 said:*
1) Can the grinding and cutting be done with a Dremel tool? If so, that would make many more people able to do it, because this tool is widely available and in the hands of many modders.

3) For the head and body, could we use the Peak LED lights? These are much more available and affordable and are quite similar from what I have seen.


[/ QUOTE ]

I used a hand drill which looks like Dremel and uses the same bits.

Initially I used these at high speed. It generates a lot of heat and the head had to be fixed on a vice.






The first one at the left is good to enlarge the front section to get bigger reflector. But the others were no good. Th aluminum was too soft and it sticks to the bits. And the last one was too soft and the bit itself was shaped.

Then I used this one.






The round one was good. I used it at slow speed and could easily grind small portion by portion without creating heat. So I could hold the head with bare fingers to have better control.

Then I used the middle one to polish it with metal polish. The last one was soaked in the furniture wax to polish and it was used to polish the led dome.

The essence of the mod was the PIC and the current regulator, so it can be done on _any_ light as long as the size allows.

-- dj


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## gadget_lover (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

That's some mighty fine work!

Daniel


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## moraino (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ, it's the most excellent work. 

Does it work on lights with clicky? I guess not. I am thinking modding Dorcy AA. Maybe I can drill a hole in front for the switch...

Henry


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## djpark (Feb 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Henry,

It works best with clickie actually since it is easier to press 2 or 3 times than twisting the tube.

-- dj


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## moraino (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ,

I have a ASP Triad running from 18650 Lithium direct driving a Lux 3. It has a tail clicky.

Is your circuit like nFlex that cannot be used with the REAR switch because it needs both plus and minus?

Henry


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## djpark (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Henry,

I believe ASP Triad is using incan bulb and I presume high current. I wonder if constant current has any meaning and also don't know the efficiency of PWM on the bulb (for example, half current for far less than half brightness?).

This circuit is designed to be fit in the head in between the power source and the led, so it also requires the 3 pins -- vin, vout & gnd.

If the head can be modded, it can fit easily since the size is small. Provably, you can just drive FET instead of the regulator IC from the PIC. PWM rate will need to be also adjusted.

-- dj


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## sithjedi333 (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Thanks for the info, DJ, that very helpful!


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## nexro (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Very nice mod indeed. I must mention that I was already impressed when I saw the circuit a few days ago. Too bad it wasn't ready that time.

Anyway, I am in for a kit for the AA.


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## greenlight (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Sweet work. I love the multi brightness feature.


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## dabiscake (Feb 25, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

cool work! Dj, I still love to read and learn through your Arc AAA/AA mods from time to time...! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
So... hmm, any idea yet on pricing for these kits? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif


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## djpark (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Some of you have shown interests in the kit.

For the hardcore DIY guys, I can provide the pre-programmed PIC and the regulator IC.

If there is big enough interests, I may produce a pre-assembled pcb for Arc-AAA, Arc-AA and perhaps compatible head size.

-- dj


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## AW (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Yeah! I'll get two!!


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## teststrips (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I love the idea of bigger PIC controlled lights. I love my photon freedom light, and am glad the idea is finally catching on.


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## Led_Blind (Mar 1, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Ohh yeah, i will have one pls


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## vacuum3d (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

dj, I have interest with the kit. Any way you wish to provide is fine with me. I can solder and can etch my own pcb, but would probably want to solder parts directly to make it small enough to fit in various small flashlights. Your offer is very much appreciated.

thx,
ernest


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## andrewwynn (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

nice.. great flat output. that aluminum head is much harder to make into a reflector.. that conical grinder is all i used for http://aaa.rouse.com mod.. that ended up nearly a perfect parabola using the exact same method but brass is much easier to shape.. still took about 40 minutes of grinding and over an hour of polishing. Too bad you already epoxied it in.. i have spare arc heads already cut into a parabola just not polished. 

-awr


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## moraino (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ, I hate to ruin my Arc AAA although they are not very bright comparing to my Dorcy AAA with 26000mcd.

I am thinking of a dimmable Dorcy AA or AAA with Lux3. I actually have one AA with a R2H which is too bright. It is only for showing. Is it possible to do it?

I like your pager light and I would love to have 4 white and 3 color one...I wish I have your knowledge of those PIC stamp. Well, time is the most precious item now...Thanks for sharing.

Henry


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## djpark (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*vacuum3d said:*
dj, I have interest with the kit. Any way you wish to provide is fine with me. I can solder and can etch my own pcb, but would probably want to solder parts directly to make it small enough to fit in various small flashlights. Your offer is very much appreciated.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ernest,

The current setup using PIC12F675 does not allow to put all the parts on a single pcb to fit within the Arc-AA/AAA head. It would be easier to solder the PIC and the LDO on top using the original Arc pcb after stripping off all the parts.

If I want to put them in one board for pre-assembled version, I will need to use smaller micro-processor such as PIC10F200 with additional schottky and a big size cap. It is actually a tough job to fit all of them. It also lose the ability get back to the old brightness level, instead of always default level.

I'd still prefer using the current setup for the benefit of simple assembly and operation.


[ QUOTE ]
*andrewwynn said:*
still took about 40 minutes of grinding and over an hour of polishing. Too bad you already epoxied it in.. i have spare arc heads already cut into a parabola just not polished. 

[/ QUOTE ]

I took a few hours to grind the reflector till I found the best way to achieve a good result. It took less 10 minutes to polish it to almost mirror shine.

Though it is not a perfect parabola, it does give nice hot spot and it is far better than many optic or reflector I've seen which is not centered properly.

I do have a few bare Arc-AAA head which can be transformed into this mod. Perhaps, someone may want to use it instead of opening up their Arc head.


[ QUOTE ]
*moraino said:*
DJ, I hate to ruin my Arc AAA although they are not very bright comparing to my Dorcy AAA with 26000mcd.

I am thinking of a dimmable Dorcy AA or AAA with Lux3. I actually have one AA with a R2H which is too bright. It is only for showing. Is it possible to do it?

I like your pager light and I would love to have 4 white and 3 color one...I wish I have your knowledge of those PIC stamp. Well, time is the most precious item now...Thanks for sharing.

[/ QUOTE ]

Henry,

Perhaps, you may get a piece of bare head and try. No need to open your original Arc-AAA. That is what I did, noticed the head white color without anodization?

Theoretically any light which has enable/disable pin can be controlled by PWM. But in reality, the PIC needs certain voltage to run (2V-5V). So it will provably won't work with 1AA light.

Also this circuit is designed around LDO (low dropout voltage regulator) and it is only suitable to run with a li-ion rechargeable battery and low Vf led. Somehow I am a fan of li-ion cells ever since I got a dead notebook battery pack.

BTW, if you are interested in the Pager-light, you can make an offer with PM which I can't resist. It is available, but carries a big sentimental value. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## AW (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

PM sent.


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## vacuum3d (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Dj, I don't have any special desire to put them on a pcb. My goal is to fit the whole thing in an Arc AAA or Solitare. I just need parts and wiring diagram.

Thank you,
ernest


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## moraino (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ, all of my AA lights are fed with potent Li-ions. Single AA alky simply not bright enough for my eye therapy!!! ;-)

So , is there hope for dimming? I can use the space between the batt and the head.

Regarding the pager light, I wonder if kits can be made available to guys like me provided enough people and you have time to do it? I don't want you to to get your sentimental piece work of art. At lease I don't have the courage to find out the cost as I just have purchased some Lux3 which just depleted my limited resources. 

I just bought some 50 26000mcd led and am very please with them. I can use that circuit of your pager light to make a fancy mini Dorcy lantern to impress people or just to make myself dizzy....zzzz. Self hypnotizing I mean. 

Keep up the good work. We are looking up to you.

Henry


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## d'mo (Mar 2, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ, PM sent


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Dave, PM replied.


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*moraino said:*
Regarding the pager light, I wonder if kits can be made available to guys like me provided enough people and you have time to do it? I don't want you to to get your sentimental piece work of art. At lease I don't have the courage to find out the cost as I just have purchased some Lux3 which just depleted my limited resources. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Henry,

I can get all the electronic/electric parts needed for you to assemble minus the pcb. Making pcb takes time and also not very feasible since you may use in different form factor. It is best to use a perforated board.

Alternatively I send you a preprogrammed PIC and you get the rest parts since no special parts are used.

PM me if interested.

-- dj


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I thought what I could provide for those wanting to try out.

It is not possible to make a pre-assembled pcb due to the size of the parts needing to be stacked. If I were to solder, then others can, too.

So I decided to provide a kit of pre-programmed POP (PIC-O-PWM) and the LDO regulator to next 10 persons at $20.

Then I will post a DIY instruction with pictures for each steps.

To reduce the delivery time and the shipping cost, my buddy cgpeanut (Roberto) will handle the shipping to US and around the area.

Please indicate/confirm.

Thanks.

-- dj


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## dabiscake (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I'll take 1! Is this where I'm supposed to get in line? I haven't seen another thread in B/S/T... Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


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## trivergata (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I'm in for one too!


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*dabiscake said:*
I'll take 1! Is this where I'm supposed to get in line? I haven't seen another thread in B/S/T... Thanks! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif 

[/ QUOTE ]

I haven't done this kind of arrangement before, so I am not sure if it is acceptable to keep the list here. But since I wanted to give priority to those who read this thread, I won't start a thread in B/S/T. Also the quantity is limited to 10 only. If I get warning from moderator, I will move it.

Current list.

1. dabiscake 
2. trivergata 
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.

Thanks.

-- dj


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## Amorphous (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I'll take 8


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## cy (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I'm for two units, please note I was #4 on the original list.


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## vacuum3d (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I'll take up to three or whatever you're willing to sell.
(Not sure what number I am, but definitely showed early interest.)

thx,
ernest


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## sithjedi333 (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I'm going to bow out, as the soldering looks to be beyond my meager abilities.


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*Amorphous said:*
I'll take 8 

[/ QUOTE ]

Amorphous,

I am sending PM.


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Sinjz pointed out that there is a policy in the list handling and I am not aware. I hope I am not violating any rules. But someone may let me know if I do.

Updated list.

1. dabiscake 
2. trivergata 
3. cy
4. cy
5. vacuum3d 
6. vacuum3d 
7. vacuum3d 
8. sinjz
9.
10.

Once 10 is full, I will send PM for PP address.

-- dj


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## moraino (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Boy, that's fast. Only two left, I sure am glad that I check.

DJ, please reserve one for me. Thanks and Paypal ready.

Henry


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Henry, you are in.

Thanks all for interest. You can choose which source you want to get your kit shipped from and send your PP and PM (for address) accordingly.

Roberto has the same equipment to produce the PIC as I do, and he understands all the detail. Getting from him will save lots of time of delivery if you are in American continents.

1. cgpeanut (Roberto) in US ( send PM to him ) PP to [email protected]

2. djpark in Malaysia ( send PM to me ) PP to [email protected] (non-CC only)

Happy modding.

-- dj


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## djpark (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*Amorphous said:*
I'll take 8 

[/ QUOTE ]

Ray,

Thanks for clarification. Sorry that you are #10, not #8. But there is no serial number, just PIC & LDO. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It makes complete 10.

Updated list.

1. dabiscake 
2. trivergata 
3. cy
4. cy
5. vacuum3d 
6. vacuum3d 
7. vacuum3d 
8. sinjz
9. moraino
10. amorphous

-- dj


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## cy (Mar 3, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

PP sent for two to Roberto with shipping info and cpf name

Thanks,


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## vacuum3d (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Thanks DJ. I sent Roberto a PM and will send PP as soon as he replies.

ernest


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## reefphilic (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Can you squeeze in one more for me? I'm located in Singapore.


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## trivergata (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

same here


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## cgpeanut (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

ok send $20 non-CC or $21.46 CC to my paypal addy:

[email protected] 

Sorry guys but if you pay by credit card paypal charges an arm and a leg 
for the transaction /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

--Roberto


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## cgpeanut (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Here's the circuit diagram I will be constructing tonight or this weekend 
using DJ's new POP. 

Only had some paper napkins and a sharpie but did bring my 
digital camera. Internet cafes are cool /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif 

I'm using the IRLM diode for reverse polarity protection .10 micro cap 
for momentarity retension of last output.

It's based in Doug_S LDO circuit many thanks Doug_S and DJ for inspiring me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif







Here's the original uncompress file 

pop-it baby!


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Roberto,
Cash PP sent.

Thank you,
ernest


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Paypal sent! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Now... we ARE getting instructions from DJ on how to solder everything together... right?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

dabiscake,

Check out my avatar, That's the same circuit except it has 3 levels. 

DJ's new POP version has the addition of survival mode which means connecting pin 6 of the uPIC to the positive of the lux will try this asap.

You might be able to reduce the circuit even further by eliminating the cap and the diode so it would fit in an ARC-AAA head.

I have two spare arc-aaa heads and will try to do the 3D soldering technique using all componets, but I like the ARC-LS form factor (my preference) bigger area to work with so I might try it first on my Arc-LS_Twisty+IMS Reflector+POP+mineral glass+TWOJ 

Hmm. I like /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Roberto,
Since DJ had put everything in an Arc-AAA, I was under the impression that everything would fit in the Arc-AAA even without having to eliminate anything. Am I wrong?

thx,
ernest


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

vacuum3d,

So you are correct, you can fit it in an arc-aaa head if you use only the three components PIC12F675, TPS73201 and .10uF. I'll let DJ post that schematic I would like to see that as well so I can try in my two arc-aaa heads.

That's tiny! You will need a vise (3rd hand) and a magnifying glass to solder that small, That's even better only three components used Awesome.


----------



## djpark (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I didn't use P-FET for reverse battery protection. In AAA head, there isn't enough room. Actually there is, but with 3-D soldering, it is hard to put.

So just be careful not to put the battery upside down. It can kill the PIC processor.

However, I added a tiny cap at the side of PIC (it is not shown in the pic due to the angle) and it is adviceable to have a 0.1uF for stable operation.

You can get those cap from any old / dead pcb to use. Select any cap right next to the IC on the old board and it is useable.

I will post the DIY instruction soon for the soldering and part arrangement as I did.

-- dj


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ, Got you covered will include the .10 caps aswell so this kit includes:

(1) PIC12F675, programed and tested 
(1) TPS732xx and 
(1) .10 uF cap.


----------



## djpark (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Roberto,

That's good. Now you put pressure on me to provide the cap as well.

TPS73201 will give 400-450mA constant current while TPS73101 will give 300-350mA.

For AAA, I suggest to provide 73101 for 300mA current. Most AAA li-ion batteryes are about 300mAh capacity and we want to go no less than 45 minutes full brightnes.

For AA users, 73201 may be a better choice.

-- dj


----------



## djpark (Mar 4, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

This is the circuit exactly how I used and how you get it as a kit.







It is drawn as the parts are shown. When you move the LDO chip (at right) over the POP (left), you will see that the joining pins are all near by.






This is the best photo I have from the previous mod. I will take some new photos when I make a next one. But it will give you sufficient idea how the parts are arranged on the old arc-aaa board.

The only difference is pin6 of POP connecting to LED anode as shown in the picture now changed to pin6 instead. This makes the connecting of POP and LDO more easily.

-- dj


----------



## andrewwynn (Mar 5, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Hey.. for people wanting to put these in AAA.. i can make an AAA PCB in seconds.. DJ.. you want to work out some little trade for a handful of PCBs you can include.. I may have the size for AA as well.. i do have the size for .55inch (14mm).. that fits exactly into the size of a 'sandwich' as well. Using a fresh board for the AAA makes for a very clean solution.. you can see them on my nano page: http://rouse.com/nano just look for circuits. It would be easier to ship one lot to DJ and he can send to everybody that's interested.. I am thinking of making up a batch of them and let people buy them via 'the shoppe' for like a buck or 2.. enough to make it worth dat2zip's time.. not really meant to be a profit center, just will make AAA modding a whole lot cleaner and easier for 'the little guy'. 

-awr


----------



## djpark (Mar 5, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Andrew,

The external diameter of Arc-AA/AAA board is 10mm and the internal diameter of Arc-AAA head is 8.4mm. So all the parts needs to be put within 8mm diameter at least to be safe so as not to touch the wall of the head when the board is moved a little within the head.

With the PIC size of 5mm x 6.2mm and regulator size of 3mm x 3mm (end to end), it would be 8mm x 6.2mm at best even without considering the space needed the the soldering and thread.

So it is very difficult (if not impossible) to make a pcb where all parts can be solder on. If it were to be stacked up, there is no meaning of having a custom pcb already.

I have no objection for you to make the pcb and take profit from it if you can make it. It will also benefit others if you are successful in making it. How many of the 10 kits being released would take the pcb is questionable, though.

About putting this kit on a bigger sandwich board, by all means it is possible and it will work, but I would not do so.

Due to the size limitation in AAA head, the functionality and features in terms of useability are limited and reduced. That means there are better things can be done or easier way to use the light if a few more parts are included in the circuit and it is possible with larger pcb. It will come out in future.

Good luck!

-- dj


----------



## andrewwynn (Mar 5, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ.. i'm not talking about having the parts on a flat PC board.. just saying to rip out the old PC board from ARC and use a brand spanking new blank.. 






here are some examples.

I 'deadbug' my peak aaa mod and the insides are the same exact size.. 

I'm suggesting.. that if you want to assemble kits or sell DIYs.. you can supply an empty PCB.. i can make you up a batch of 10 or 20 in an hour or so.. so if it's something useful to you or the interested parties.. let me know and we can work out a trade or a deal.

-awr


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 5, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Thanks for answering my questions.

ernest


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 6, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Finally! Sweet Success!

I was able to create and ARC-LS circuit board with DJ's POPL, I used a
2-sided circuit board, #105 engraving cutter dremel tool and a little luck.














To be honest the circuit is simple enough (3 components) to make your
own, no need for fancy circuit board tricks, just follow DJ's diagram.

One good thing about this approach as compared to fliipin the chips
on it's back is that PIN2 of the TPS73201 has a good thermal path
which is the way the LDO circuit should be built IMHO. I made sammich 
style with a brass plate holding the TWOJ. 

I did manage to build an ARC-AAA pill






but it still needs more work /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

If anyone has interest I might be able to create a template so fellow 
CPF'ers can engrave their own on a two sided pcb.










EDIT:

ARC-LS with IMS reflector, ucl lens, TWOJ with POPL, running single li-on AA at 400mA max setting.

Look below for aninmated gifs .


----------



## cy (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

SWEET... nice job cgpeanut


----------



## djpark (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Roberto, it is nice and you are the official 1st modder who used the kit.

Are the links at the bottom pointing to video clips? I can't click. maybe my ad blocker stripping off the link?

-- dj


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

CY, DJ Thanks! DJ awesome software!

click on/off within 1 sec will go hi-lo setting.

click it 5 times takes you to survival mode nice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

click 6 times goes to strobe then click 7 times goes to SOS. 

simple.. Now I need to get more li-on batteries! Also clickie works 
better than the twistie going thru the featues but I believe as the
novelty wares out I'll go back to the twisty I like the compact size. 

I'm trying to fix the video /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Will edit and fix. DJ what
program did you use to reduce the size of the avi file?

The circuit is so simple! I will make another but this time I'll add the P-channel FET for reverse polarity proctection and maybe post in 
another thread with detaled instructions (did not mean to hi-jack this thread DJ) Hey it works! Awesome!

This PIC has a lot of potential next one will be a 4-D cell Mag!

I will be shipping the POPL kits tommorrow, you can get the 2-sided
pcb from radio shack and the #105 dremel tool at lowes for under 4
bucks


----------



## moraino (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I have two LS conversions waiting, ASP Triad using 18650 and Dorcy using 14500. I hope it works as I still have 5 more 14500. I am very exciting....Has any effencient calculation done? Don't care much but nice to know.

Henry


----------



## djpark (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Roberto,

Don't worry about the hijacking and post here. Or if you post another one of your own, please add a link here so that people will know what has been doen with the kit.

Henry, for your Triad, you may want to drive n-channel FET as low side switch instead of LDO.

-- dj


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Here' sthe pic of the ARC-LS-POPL module






TWOJ lux is resting on a brass plate easier to cut and just the right
thickness I got it from hobby lobby. Used 5 min epoxy and blue glow
powder to stiffen it up a bit.


----------



## trivergata (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I wonder how this would work out in a Nuwai Q3. I think it would make for a heck of an EDC. Any comments?


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 7, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Hello,

Checking my paypal account and here's list of persons that paid:

1. dabiscake PAID
2. trivergata PAID
3. cy PAID
4. cy PAID
5. vacuum3d PAID
6. vacuum3d PAID
7. vacuum3d PAID
8. sinjz
9. moraino PAID
10. amorphous OK 

sinnz, pm on the way.


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 8, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

OK Got the Video to work had to resort to a Mac /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif iMovie 






Strobe Feature 






SOS Feature

I think the twisty has better feel for the interface than the Kroll 
Clickie because the twisty's turning action delays it enough 
so you can go thru the menus more intuitively.

Also, I'm using regular surefire 123s since my lux is a TWOJ 
it works perfectly not blinding bright and good around the 
house, and yet you can use li-ons for outdoors if you like max
brightness. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif 

Arc Beauty with intelligence /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hahaha.gif

I call this my ARC-LS Beauties Part 2 

EDIT Added more animated gifs: 







Will anyone consider pre-build POPL moduiles for their ARC-LS?


----------



## djpark (Mar 11, 2005)

*DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

Some of you are already receiving the kit (POP, LDO & cap) and I thought it is about time to show you how I soldered those.

* Head preparation *

I don't have a photo to show about pulling the pill out of the Arc-AAA head since it was done some time ago. But there are many thread about the process and here it is explained in text. Is there someone who want to post DIY instruction for it?

Here is repeat of my recent post about it.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Number=884620 

[ QUOTE ]
First, open the crimp, then the easiest way I find is to keep the head in the boiling water for a while and push the led from the top with something not sharp such as plastic (ball pointed pen tip). The storage temperature of the parts are higher than water boliling point and it is safe. 

[/ QUOTE ] 

Make sure there is no part blocking any part of the board. Pressing the head out with blocking behind is too much for bear hand.

This post includes the modding of the original pill taken out of Arc-AAA head. Here is the proof. It can be done.






Since I don't have an original form of Arc-AAA, I used a bare head acquired some time ago.

This is the tool I used when I grind the head. The chuck is rotating on a vice. The shaft is 17670 li-ion cell. While it is rotating by hand, the Dremel look-alike tool goes on the head.






This is very time consuming task and the result is never guaranteed with hand tools only. If only someone can cut a nice reflector out of the AAA head.

* Soldering parts *

This can be a challenging task to many people. A magnifying glass with attached light, a fine solering tip (with temperature control if possible) and a stand to hold the board while working on are important tools, also not to forget a set of tweezers.

<font color="red"> 3D/SMT soldering tips </font> 

<font color="blue"> I use low temperature melting lead. It flows fast and covers the parts quickly so that I can remove the soldering iron without heating the entire parts.

It is important to remove the iron from the parts as soon as it is fixed. Holding on to the parts any longer will transfer the heat to the entire parts and the parts or joining wires can come off along with the iron. </font> 

Let's follow with the pictue.






1) These are the parts to go in. The board taken out of the original Arc-AAA is wiped out and cleaned with sandpaper.

2) The unused leads of the PIC are cut off to reduce the space needed within the head. Be sure to cut the correct pins. The pin1 marking shall be at the top-left.






3) Since I removed the battery input thread, I had to solder a wire through the hole to supply the battery to circuit. I added some lead to the bottom to make it as a blob.

4) Solder the PIC on board. The only lead to solder is pin8 (top-right) to the ground of the board.

5) Solder the battery wire to pin1 (top-left). Do not cut the wire yet.






6) Solder the cap above the PIC. Each end shall be soldered to pin1 and pin8 of the PIC.

7) Place LDO on top of the PIC and solder the pin1 (top-left), pin3 (bottom-left) and pin5 (top-right).

LDO pin1 -> PIC pin1
LDO pin3 -> PIC pin3
LDO pin5 -> PIC pin6 (be careful)

8) Solder the ground wire to LDO pin2 and pin4.They are taken from the ground thread around the edge of the board.

Sicne it is very likely damaged, I added a wire along to ensure the connection. Also it can work as cusion when you press the board against the head.






9) Positive LED output is taken from LDO pin5 and PIC pin6 and negative goes to a ground point.

10) A quick testing shows 0.38A for high brightness, 0.10A for low brightness and 0.01A (actually 15mA) for survival mode.

* heat sink and fixing *

No photo in a hurry. But this is already described in the main post.

I hope this is helpful to many.

-- dj


----------



## koala (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

dy

Execellent free form. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Cool idea to reuse the ArcAAA PCB!


----------



## djpark (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

Thanks for the comment, Vince!

There are many people I learnt things directly or indeirectly pointed me where to study. You are one of them.

The photo of your avr development board for iKrol gave me the idea and the confidence that SMT parts can be handled without having special equipment and it really pulled me in to the SMT world.

-- dj


----------



## koala (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

You mean these guys? They are very cheap and valuable pieces of equipment compared to the manufacturer's $$$ dev boards. I am an Avr guy and find it quite challenging(brain's hardwired) to convert to Pic on a couple of occasions. I am eyeing to learn the new 6 pins Pic devices, I think they are 1.8volts which makes it excellent for 2AA applications.











Actually your switching idea is excellent. Yours turn off with an open circuit and it consumes no current, while mine is on sleep mode which draws a tiny bit of power. Secondly, the ikroll requires an extra wire that routes the vcc supply to the uP which makes life harder when integrating it in to a flashlight.

-vince.


----------



## djpark (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

Yes, the very picture lert me believe that SMT can be managed without a special tool. I was bold enough to start with fat soldering iron in the right hand and the magnifying glass in the left hand when I was working for last year H&M contest.

Talking about the iKroll, it is an insparation and I always wanted to make similar. A design has been in my hand for a long time to work without needing the Vcc, but I just couldn't find time to test it out on the real board.

Who knows, a big company sponsor me to do, I will be glad to further R&D.

-- dj


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

Superb Job DJ Now I see where you placed EDIT: a screw for the
positive and the cap mounted side ways and on top of the uPIC 
also, cutting the un-used uPIC pins created more room on the pcb
Great Approach! 

Would it better to use regular 1watt luxeon since I'm only
driving it at around 100-200mA(TPS73101-201)? Would a 
3watt TWOJ make any difference besides tint of course. 
Maybe a low dome will work better wth a polished arc-aaa
head?

@trivergata,

Ordered me a Nuwaii Q3 yesterday You might want to order
the TPS73601 and above @600mA output I'm building a module
based on the heavy duty dcq package.


----------



## djpark (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

Roberto,

There are certain amount of variation in the max constant current through different LDO chips.

TPS73101 gmave me usually 300-350mA, the last one I used gave me 380mA (see picture in the above post).

TPS73201 gave me about 400-450mA while TPS73601 gave me about 550-600mA.

Please be careful with the heat sink since you will get minimum 300mA.

-- dj


----------



## jtice (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

FANTASTIC WORK !!!!!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif

I have the preasure of owning a couple things from DJ, and I must say, he does damn fine work.
Very inovative, creative, and functional.

I have a 8mm led PIC controlled pill fron DJ, and absolutely love it.
These LS mods have to be amazing!
I have been busy, and just now saw this thread, but it seems you can get about 600mA?
If you can get about 3 levels, the lowest being about Arc AAA brightness, you would have one of the most functional lights around.
Being in the LS package makes it that much nicer. And with the 14500 cell, it makes a nice small rechargabel option.

heh, that 1AA pack on the LS looks rather nice /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ... if I do say so myself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: DIY Kit Instruction: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL uP*

Wow! 600mA! Even better, that should be on par with a modded arc-ls
pcb, DJ, I still have the 3 levels POPL version simple and iMHO more
practical. Your POPL kit opens up a new possibilities /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif 






@jtice, I do like your cutdown AA-pack. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif

jtice work 1
jtice work 2


----------



## djpark (Mar 11, 2005)

*Re: POPL Usage Instruction Video: Arc-AAA-Lux*

John, thanks for the comment. Sky is the only limit???

Roberto, 600mA seems normal output from TPS73601.

I put this POP-L engine to this beatiful light with TPS73601 and it gives 580mA from R123 at high brightness level. I love this cutie, don't you!



 

*Here is HOW TO control the light.*

It is first time I am posting the video, so some may not be able to view. I will explain the sequence of switching on and off followed by the light action.

Turn on and turn off within 1 second is considered as a quick turn on/off. Roberto said it is too long, so the new version has 700 msec window instead of 1000 msec. It will be helpful for the clickie users.

<font color="blue"> * Normal brightness control & Survival mode * </font> 



 AVI 1.39MB 


 QuickTime 1.21MB 

*ON* - high brightness level (= previously used level)
OFF
*ON* - previously used brightness level (= high brightness)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* - low brightness level (change level)
OFF
*ON* - previously used brightness level (= low brightness)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* - high brightness level (change level)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - survival mode
OFF

Low current survival mode (typically 15mA) comes at 5th quick turn on. It is done so becaue we hardly need to use this special mode. This mode is not remebered as previously used brightness level.

I like the blueish shadow when it is turned off.

<font color="blue"> * Strobe mode * </font> 



 QuickTime 397KB 

*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - strobe mode (6 times quick on)
OFF

Strobe mode comes at 6th quick turn on. This mode is not remembered as previously used mode.

<font color="blue"> * SOS mode * </font> 



 AVI 655KB 


 QuickTime 579KB 

*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - SOS mode (7 times quick on)

SOS mode comes at 7th quick turn on. This mode is not remembered as previously used mode.

The original SOS mode produced light patten similar to *"di di di <pause><pause><pause> dah dah dah <pause><pause><pause> di di di <pause><pause><pause><pause><pause>"*.

A friend of mine is HAM operator and he told me that it is correct morse code pattern. But in practice, they shoot at faster phase such as *"di di di dah dah dah di di di <pause><pause><pause>"*. So I changed the SOS pattern as per his recommendation.

If anyone can confirm it is not so, please let me know.

-- dj

_Edit: Some cosmetic facelift_


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 13, 2005)

*Re: POPL Usage Instruction Video: Arc-AAA-Lux*

Built another module but this using the TPS73601 in DCQ pacgkage.
But be WARNED! the pinout of this chip is diifferent from DJ's
schematic so please consult the datasheet and adjust accordingly.






Here the tps73601 should put out 600mA it has a bigger ground pin
that I soldered at the sides which will provide proper chip cooling /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif






Made a few assembly line style /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif I find it easier this way.
some provide 400mA output the rest 600mA one will be in a mag 4-d
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif should provide adequate runtime on 4 d cell akalines 

Building this kit for the ARC-AAA is a bit harder because of the
physical size and parts arrangement so, if you are getting the kit 
pre-built youre' so lucky it's very labor intensive. I'm still working on
my AAA version. Got the head nice and polished and the body bore
out bigger that's it






I'm getting good at this, got the lux centered perfect, even polished the
brass plate. I might change to a frean optic or a polished mcgismo optic






Left: [email protected] Right:[email protected]

Very close not much difference I think except for a slight, slight
yellow tint on the TXOK, PhotonFanatics emiiters are awesome!





[email protected] 





[email protected]


----------



## Amorphous (Mar 13, 2005)

*Re: POPL Usage Instruction Video: Arc-AAA-Lux*

Very Nice CGPeanut!


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: POPL Usage Instruction Video: Arc-AAA-Lux*

Update on the [email protected]

Tried using 2 AA li-ons in a 2-AA tail pack Yes voltage
measured 7.46v nice and bright no problem so far much 
better run time /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

DJ suggested I use the REG101/102 from TI which can take 12v
max and I will as soon as I get the chips. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*cgpeanut said:*
DJ, Got you covered will include the .10 caps aswell so this kit includes:

(1) PIC12F675, programed and tested 
(1) TPS732xx and 
(1) .10 uF cap. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Roberto, received my kit yesterday, thanks! A few questions if I may: DJ's original circuit was using the TPS73101, with output around 300mA, when this one, according to DJ's posts actually puts out around 400mA, correct?
Also, wanted to ask, this circuit is a buck and not boost design, so I'd be better off with a low Vf Lux, correct?


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

@dabiscake,

TPS73101:

Yes, it varies I asked DJ this and his response was:
----------
For example, TPS73101 is supposed to give 360mA, 
but it can be any value between 150 and 500mA.
I got 300, 350 and 380. Likewise, TPS73601 
I tried gave me 580mA. TPS73201 seems more 
consistent to 400-450mA. 
----------

No matter what TPS73xxx you use the lowest your'e 
gonna get is 300mA. Heat sink is a must /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif and a 
low Vf lux like a TWOJ, that's what I used on the 
1st Arc-LS module I believe I'm pulling around 500mA 
using the TPS73201 which is what I want and at this 
current the arc heats up within mins at full brightness.

Hope this helps.


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

roberto, got my package as well. Thx. I built one circuit and it tested out great. I'm pulling 470ma on high with a TYOM using a li-Ion AA. Not sure if my DMM is slightly off. I'm surprised to find that he Arc AA head actually has less space than the Arc AAA. The AA head would fit the led and the circuit tightly, leaving no room for any sort of a heat sink.


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

@vacuum3d:

Really? I thought I would have more luck with the Arc-AA
any chance you can post some pics inside the Arc-AA head?

I was thinking of using a cut down aluminium screw head
as the heat sink for the Arc-AAA. Just found a thin enough
one-sided pcb that should work.


----------



## djpark (Mar 15, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Arc-AA head has wider but shorter cavity compared to AAA head. But there is still enough room for a Luxeon + heat sink + double decker POP board.

You can cut a portion of aluminum sheet (thicker than 0.5MM, can be thinner than 1mm) to make it a very tight fit to the head and it can serve as a reasonably good heat sink. Look at the picture of the heat sink in the main post.

Another advantage of the AA head is that you can get quite descent beam without grinding the reflector further thanks to its larger size.






Beamshot against wall at 50cm - F2.8 1sec : from left: Arc-AA-Lux, Mini-Mag-AAA-DJLED, MJLED-3V, Infinity-Ultra.






-- dj


----------



## spoggles (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*andrewwynn said:*
nice.. great flat output. that aluminum head is much harder to make into a reflector.. that conical grinder is all i used for http://aaa.rouse.com mod.. that ended up nearly a perfect parabola using the exact same method but brass is much easier to shape.. still took about 40 minutes of grinding and over an hour of polishing. Too bad you already epoxied it in.. i have spare arc heads already cut into a parabola just not polished. 

-awr 

[/ QUOTE ]

took me 15 minutes to make the parabola polishing included, simply twist on the arc head on its body and slip it in a cordless 1/2 inch chuck drill or any 1/2 inch chuck drill, then hold the conical grinder at the angle you describe with a pair of plyers or something and spin the arc away as you push the conical grinder inside the arc head, 3 or 4 minutes does the trick, use some oil often on the conical grinder.

for polishing use the drill as well, I used wet sanding sandpaper of different grits finishing with 2000 grit on top of the conical grinder with water, to finish i used car polishing compound on a rag.


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 16, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Thanks Roberto for the answers! That's what I was curious about... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I made the circuit and I really like the options from the PIC (strobe is more fun than I expected!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif, high-low is as easy as 1,2...3)... Now, gotta play around with the Arc AAA head to obtain a good beam.


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

@dabiscake: 

Glad it worked for you. DJ's software is cool and wait untill you see the
next version! 

I made a POPL Maggie 4D last night /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif









Specs are: Hotlips 4D, UCL lens, TXOK running the TPS73201dcq
should put out around 480-500mA range.






I believe the best configuration for an EDC light will be a
POPL [email protected] running a rechargeable 123 with 
mineral glass lens, 17mm IMS reflector and a kroll tail cap.






Nice and compact and gives about an hour of runtime at full blast.

POPL Maggie in SOS Mode, I'll keep this in the wife's car for safety and 
emergency situations 














Now The low setting on the POPL Maggie 4D is awesome in candle
mode /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I built one cuicuit. Tested it before I put it in an ArcAA head. Somehow the circuit does not function correctly after that. It now would not remember the last setting no matter how much time I turn it off. For example, if I turn it ON, it would go High. Turn it off for 10 seconds then turning it ON again would go Low. Basically, the circuit would add up the total number of times I turn it Off-On and light up accordingly without regards to the fact that it should turn back on to the last setting no matter how much time I wait inbetween. I think I goofed.

btw, Roberto, I'll post the pix you asked for tonight.


ernest


----------



## Klaus (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

This is a great project /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/happy14.gif

Klaus


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 18, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

@vacuum3d,


Make sure your .10 uF tantalum capacitor is wired correctly, and has a good connection.

Here's the schmatic:







That cap remembers the last setting, Also , make sure pin8 of the uPIC goes to GND.


----------



## trivergata (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Well, I'm on top of the world!!!! I now have a menu-driven QIII, and let me just say, THIS ROCKS!!!!. I don't ever again want a crappy old on-off-repeat flashlight again. I am, however, having the same issue as vaccum3d - no setting memory. did I maybe reverse the polarity in the cap? Even without it, this thing is awesome. Thanks guys!
Josh


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Problem fixed /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif My problem was caused by a loose dirty threads in the ArcAA. I cleaned it with alcohol and a wire brush. Everything works as advertised now.


----------



## djpark (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

vacuum3d,

I am glad your problem is solved -- dirty contact, you just reminded one important issue.

The uPIC determines next mode by counting how many times it has been on/off in short period (within 1 sec each on/off) and the inconsistent contact can trigger many unwanted on/off electronically.

To reduce such false hit, there is 100 msec debouncing period (70msec in new version), but it may be pretty short time to some.

It is important to maintain a good and clean contact for the power supply. So I am putting the battery retainer ring at the bottom of the AA/AAA (below battery) instead of bottom of the head (on top of the battery). This helps.

Another thing to be careful:

The uPIC can be damaged easily when reverse power polarity is given (reverse battery). Due to the space limitation of AA/AAA head, the reverse battery protection is not included.

If you are putting the POP to other light where there is more room for just 1 fet, you can use a p-channel FET with low Rdson to create reverse battery protection.

battery (+) -> SOURCE
DRAIN -> circuit
GATE -> ground

-- dj


----------



## trivergata (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

dj, is there any way that I change out the LDO to reclaim the original brightness of my Q3? I tried the TPS73601, and it reduces the brightness alot. I guess it's just because this was designed for a smaller light, but I'm hoping to get a little more out of it.

Josh


----------



## andrewwynn (Mar 19, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

i prep the threads on all my lights with ProGold.. and whoa what a difference it makes.


----------



## djpark (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*trivergata said:*
dj, is there any way that I change out the LDO to reclaim the original brightness of my Q3? I tried the TPS73601, and it reduces the brightness alot. I guess it's just because this was designed for a smaller light, but I'm hoping to get a little more out of it.

Josh 

[/ QUOTE ]

Josh,

Let's begin with the run time chart below. The numbers at the left is not exactly any calibrated value, but relative to each other as my logger reading on the (almost) same condition.






Red color is my First-A modded with POP at high level running 580mA using TPS73601.
Yellow is Arc-LS-POP running at 450mA using TPS73201.
Green is unmodded Q3 running on R123 (battery current 800mA, led current unknown) while blue is unmodded Q3 running on CR123.

Q3 is actually twice brighter when used with R123 compard to standard CR123 at the cost of half run time. However, the boost circuit is not that efficient and you can see that it is not able to bring as long run time compared to "First-A".

I don't believe you will want to go back to the old inefficient boost circuit, but you'd wish to increase the max current.

I have tested new version of POP which has burst mode to pump out extra current. Or without upgrading, there is a solution to increase the current with shorter run time.

Please PM me and cgpeanut to see what we can do.

-- dj


----------



## djpark (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I am introducing the new version of POP (PIC-O-PWM) driver with extra features.


*What's new*

- There is a new burst mode in addition to the existing High & Low brightness levels and Survival mod. The different current can be decided by selection of LDO to be used.

- My local cpfer "Tinkerfy" insisted that he wants brightness level setting option, so I added an option to let the suer select the low brightness level to be used.

- Timeout for new brightness level setting is reduced from 1000 msec to 700 msec. This gives faster response to kroll switch users.

- As always, the rechargeable li-ion battery voltage will never (hardly actually) drop below 2.5V, so there is no worry about the over-discharge of the cell.

- And the all the existing features.


*In action*

This new POP driver is loaded to old faithful Arc-LSH-P with TX1J, IMS reflector and UCL lens. It is a beauty itself.














Beam shots at wall 1m away using F2.8 1sec setting.
From left, High - low - survival - burst mode





Beam shots at ceiling 2m away using F2.8 1sec setting.
From left, High - low - survival - burst mode





Some different levels for low brightness mode. Steps 1, 3, 6 & 9






*Run time chart*

The number at the left is my logger reading and it is not exactly calibrated to any absolute value. Just for relative comparison.

Yellow color line is the high brightness mode starting at 450mA and red line is burst mode starting at 750mA.






With high mode, it produces 75 minutes flat bright light output and 10 minutes of moon mode followed by many hours of start mode. After this the battery voltage was still over 2.5V.

Burst mode gave 45 minutes of much brighter light output and 10 minutes of moon mode. Due to the LDO selection, the voltage dropout as time goes is evident. I shall change to another LDO for flat constant current output.

One thing to not is that just increasing the current of high mode 450mA to burst mode of 750mA does increase the light output (according to the light meter), but it doesn't really bring the "Ooomph" to the human eyes. So I will be putting more than double the current for the vurst mode in future.


*How to control the light - video*

This time, I have audio recorded and you can hear the "click" sound of the kroll switch. I press the switch at a slower speed than I usually do in real action.

<font color="blue"> * Normal brightness control (high / low) * </font>



 AVI 1.56MB


 QuickTime 1.37MB

*ON* - low brightness level (= previously used level)
OFF
*ON* - previously used brightness level (= low brightness)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* - low brightness level (change level)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* - high brightness level (change level)
OFF
*ON* - previously used brightness level (= high brightness)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* - low brightness level (change level)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* - high brightness level (change level)
OFF
*ON* - previously used brightness level (= high brightness)
OFF

High or low brightness level is remembered for next turn on.

<font color="blue"> * Survival mode & Burst mode * </font>



 AVI 1.13MB


 QuickTime 1.00MB

*ON* - previously used brightness level (= high brightness)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - survival mode (5th turn on)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - burst mode (6th turn on)
OFF

Survival mode and burst mode is not remembered.

<font color="blue"> * Strobe mode * </font>



 AVI 583KB


 QuickTime 539KB

*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - strobe mode (7th turn on)
OFF

Strobe mode is not remembered as previously used mode.

<font color="blue"> * SOS mode * </font>



 AVI 1.22MB


 QuickTime 1.02MB

*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - SOS mode (8th turn on)

SOS mode mode is not remembered as previously used mode.

The SOS mode produces modified SOS patten with reduced pause time between characters to deliver the distress signal faster as per suggestion by a ham operator.

<font color="blue"> * low brightness level setting mode * </font>



 AVI 1.63NB


 QuickTime 1.47MB

*ON* - low brightness level (= previously used level)
OFF
*ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* OFF *ON* - level setting mode (10th turn on)

At this point, the brightness level start from 1 (dim) to 9 (bright), then 9 to 1 in continuous loop. Turn off the light at a desired low level, it will be remembered as low mode broghtness level.

OFF
*ON* - low brightness level (= new low brightness level)
OFF

At first, I thought of going through the brightness level at 1% current change resolution. Then after much thinking, I decided that it is still easier to have just 10 steps of preset brightness level. However, the linear brightness increment is not smooth. So future version will have preset brightness level calculated by log function for more natural level change.


*To do*

- Some are already mentioned above -- higher burst current, log scale low brightness change.

- Burst mode time out, fallback to high mode when thermal shutdown (high temperature) or low battery.

- High brightness mode fallback to low mode when thermal shutdown (high temperature) or low battery.

- Some other seemingly ridiculous ideas (but workable)

-- dj


----------



## djpark (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I wasn't happy with 750mA burst mode compared to 450mA high brightness mode. So tweaked a little and got slightly over 1A burst mode with fresh charged R123.

I took some photos to compare. The picture don't really justify the burst mode well, but the natural eyes says "Wow"!

Wall 1m away @ F2.8 1sec (From left low, high & burst)





Ceiling @ F2.8 1sec (From left low, high & burst)





-- dj


----------



## ZuluWhiskeyFox (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

How does one get some of these in some kind of kit? Am I correct in thinking that one of the components in this little bag of tricks has to be programmed ahead of time? If so how does one go about this? I wish to know more.

cheers,
zwf


----------



## Monolith (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*andrewwynn said:*
i prep the threads on all my lights with ProGold.. and whoa what a difference it makes. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Be careful with the ProGold on anything that gets hot. It will start to gum up.


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Sorry to keep asking these dumb questions. The circuit that I built is working according to what dj had described. However, the light shuts off at about 3.85v, and it begins to flicker within the first minute of use even with a fresh Li-Ion at 4.2v. There's no way I can get the kind of run time from what dj had posted, maybe only a 1/3 and flickers all way. Maybe I really did mess up. (Btw, I'm using this circuit with a TX1J.)

Dj, could you tell me at what voltage is the circuit supposed to shutoff? And if the battery voltage drops below the led Vf, what should happen?


Thank you,
ernest


----------



## djpark (Mar 20, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Ernest,

I don't purposely cut off the power at certain voltage. Being an LDO design, it continues to provide the lower voltage power to LED and the led current will drop exponentially at lower voltage input. So unless you leave it for "really" long period, the battery will not go that low.

I suspect your battery could be the cause. Let me give you some run time charts which I've taken long ago. It was for lower current than the last one I have now.






The first one is normal runtime using 14500. The second chart is done with a "bad" 14500 cell. It comes out of charger 4.15V, the battery voltage drops to 3.6V immediately on load and drops further to 3.1V within a few minutes. Even the current (blue) and the light output (yellow) is unstable meaning flickering at beginning. The third one shows a "bad" 17670 not able to perform as expected, instead fall off early.

These "bad" batteries were abused ones in the name of "research", they were charged at higher voltage (4.5V) and also discharged to 0.5V as well.

May I suggest you to try with another battery, if it continues, we will see what could be the problem.

BTW, I remember you mentioning unbelieveably high current measurement with your DMM. You may want to check your battery in it. When the battery is much depleted, the meter reading goes up. One of mine gives me as much as 50% higher reading now.

-- dj


----------



## vacuum3d (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

hmm... it never crossed my mind that the battery could be doing that. I tried on two different 14500 cells, but I can't guarantee that these cells haven't been abused before. I guess I could try some other Li-Ion cells to see if the issue persists. Thanks for your help DJ!

ernest


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

I need help! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif I goofed up and probably killed the PIC, LDO, both?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif
I had my circuit all wired up on an Arc AAA board as described in DJ's post higher in this thread. Everything was fine until I started swapping Leds to measure output current from different Vfs I had on-hand.
Well, I moved the (Led +) wire a bit too much, and being connected to LDO pin5 / PIC pin6, the LDO pin5 broke off... I didn't notice at first since it's barely lifted apart from the LDO body, but enough to not connect.
So I wired the next Led and tried to power it up again. Nothing this time. I tried again, and as I was holding on to the board, I felt a lot of heat coming from the LDO as soon as I supplied power from battery. It's too hot to touch actually; I also saw a bit of smoke come out too..
I eventually noticed the tab was broken and succesfully resoldered on the tiny bit that was left, but now, circuit doesn't work anymore. Everytime I double check the circuit for all loose solders, etc... and then apply power, LDO gets "burning hot" really quick and a bit of smoke comes out... (I did 2-3 times total, maybe I should have stopped after the first?).
Anyways, Dj, Roberto, does it sound to you guys like the LDO is dead? Could I have killed the PIC at the same time? Is there anyway to measure across the circuit to verify which component is ok or not? Roberto, do you have any more spare parts I could "bum off" if I indeed killed mine? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Last question guys, there's no polarity on the cap, right?
Thanks for helping an electronically challenged CPFer!!


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

pm sent


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Roberto, was the PM sent to me? I didn't receive yet... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink2.gif
My bad, as soon as I submitted this post, little icon goes off... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif


----------



## djpark (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

You guys seem to have soldering problem. I might have to provide a pre-assembled pcb after all.

-- dj


----------



## AW (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Yeah!!!!!


----------



## trivergata (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

The soldering wasn't too bad for me - the Q3 board has alot of room. I designed a board in AutoCAD, printed it on a sheet of shipping labels and etched with the stickers - super easy!

DJ and CJpeanut - I would love to get my hands on one of the new versions. I'm in love with these things. PM me if they will be available, please.


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Dj, I soldered everything fine, I should have just assembled the head right after and it would have been ok. I just kept tinkering with the circuit a little too much and I "let my guard down" although I'm usually careful with these things. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Roberto PM'ed me with info on sourcing the parts on my own. Before I do that, is there a way to measure/check if PIC or LDO is still useable? Thanks.


----------



## goldserve (Mar 21, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

would it be possible to buy two of these kits for my QIII? There is more than enough room to put one of these things in the head but is it enough to drive a TWOJ or SX1K?


----------



## StoneDog (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Any chance a kit of some sort could be made into a 2AA/CNC-123 drop-in? 

Jon


----------



## wquiles (Mar 22, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

cj, roberto,

Thanks for sharing this very cool mod with us !

Will


----------



## djpark (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

When I look at the picture of low - high - burst mode beamshots, I can see some differences between high and burst mode, but not very distinguishable.

So I thought the light meter reading is in order. Here is a picture of Arc-LSH-POP at low (level 2), high and burst mode lux reading at 1m distance.

Below that, I added the high mode of First-A, Nuwai Q3 on R123 and Nuwai 5 watters for comparison.

Then I can truly see the difference now.







-- dj


----------



## nexro (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

wow, burst mode looks good.
I'm ready to send in my Arc LSH for modding!


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Patience my friend, patience /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


----------



## StoneDog (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

[ QUOTE ]
*StoneDog said:*
Any chance a kit of some sort could be made into a 2AA/CNC-123 drop-in? 

Jon 

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry for my complete and total ignorance, but is there a FAQ somewhere that explains a little more about this type of mod? Does "LDO" mean that this can act as a buck-only converter? I'm imagining my CNC-123 HA with multi-level capabilities /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif but this stuff appears to be cutting edge right now?

Jon


----------



## lymph (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Excellent project!

Just a bit of info, morse code for SOS (DIT DIT DIT DAH DAH DAH DIT DIT DIT) can be accurately realized by following these rules:

A dash is called “DAH” equals three dots (Called “DIT”)

A space between the signals forming the same letter equal one dot

Space between two letters is equal three dots

Space between two words is seven dots


----------



## djpark (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Jon,

There are 2 parts involved -- POP (PIC based PWM driver) and current regulator -- in this case I ue LDO (low dropout linear regulator).

Theoretically the LDO can be replaced with any form of led driver, but practically what can be used is limited by the voltage input and the space available.

If you are interested in a custom project, you may PM me for your detail.

-- dj


----------



## djpark (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Thanks for the info on the morse code.

Initially it was producing exactly the same pattern, but now I use modified pattern after getting advice from a HAM operator.

This is what I said earlier.

[ QUOTE ]
The original SOS mode produced light patten similar to "di di di <pause><pause><pause> dah dah dah <pause><pause><pause> di di di <pause><pause><pause><pause><pause>". 

A friend of mine is HAM operator and he told me that it is correct morse code pattern. But in practice, they shoot at faster phase such as "di di di dah dah dah di di di <pause><pause><pause>". So I changed the SOS pattern as per his recommendation. 

If anyone can confirm it is not so, please let me know. 

[/ QUOTE ] 

Initial pattern:





Modified pattern:





-- dj


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Dj, I followed Roberto's lead and I managed to source some replacement parts for my goof up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif I was hoping I had just messed up the LDO but when I swapped the new part in, still the same problem and no light comes on anymore. At this point I'm thinking I killed the PIC with too much soldering/"salvation" work possibly? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Well, is there a way I can check if the part is totally gone or if there's a way I can still save it? (Something tells me it's dead though, since when I hook the circuit up, Led will light if I press on the whole board assembly, meaning pressing down onto the PIC... hmmm, probably screwed up something inside of it, I guess...)
I do have some PIC1275 coming in aytime now, and they will be going towards Roberto's for some programming help. If only had assembled the Arc head right away when I had the circuit working... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

@dabiscake ,

pm sent


----------



## dabiscake (Mar 24, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

PM replied! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif


----------



## cgpeanut (Mar 30, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Nuwai Q3: [email protected] pulse mode, 450mA High Mode, 20mm IMS Reflector, Mineral Glass using DJ latest and greatest POP software /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif






Left: [email protected], IMS Reflector, UCL Lens 
Middle: [email protected] IMS Reflector, Mineral Glass
Right: [email protected], 20mm UCL Lens, Mineral Glass nice tight beam I like it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif little side spill






High Mode:





Survival Mode





Beam Shot red Brikn wall


----------



## goldserve (Mar 30, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

cgpeanut,

That is so nice!! I just bought the same kit and plan on doing the same thing. Can you take photos of the internals for me to see how you hooked up all the chips? Thanks.


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## Billson (Mar 30, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

DJ/Roberto,

Is this circuit a buck/boost configuration? Will there be brightness differences between using disposable 123's and RCR123's?

What is the runtime on Burst mode and what exactly is the current it is running at? Can it be engaged permanently or do we have to hold down the switch to enable it?

Do you have plans to make completed modules available for the LS? How much would the estimated price be?

Thanks.


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## djpark (Mar 30, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

Bilson,

This circuit is based on LDO regulator so it is a perfect combination of li-ion and Luxeon. When used with CR123, you will only get what the led can take as direct drive. There is no immediate plan to develop a boost circuit since there are many wonderful boost converters already available within CPF community.

After trying many different current settings and actually carrying and using around by many people to check the practicality of the current, brightness and run time, we have come to conclusion that 400-450mA for high mode is the best balance while burst mode can be doubled. But remember the double current does not give you the double the brightness to the eyes.

To enable the users of the existing lights without a push button switch, the engagement of a particular mode is activated by the numbers of "quick" turn on/off combination. So the burst mode is also permanently engaged till the light is turned off.

Arc-LS has very special pcb design and parts arrangement and it is not easy to make a direct replacement. It can be done and it is in my wish list, but not in the action list yet. Meantime, if you want to mod the Arc-LS, cgpeanut will be happy to do it for you at a price.

However, soon, very soon, you may hear something special coming out. So watch it!

-- dj


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## cgpeanut (Mar 31, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

@Billson,

My fellow Filipino CPFer, I can build you one with your choice of luxeon if you like, I just made another one for the arc-ls last night and it turned out quite well, I'm experimenting and perfecting the fit and making improvements everytime. PM me your specs and I'll make it right for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

EDIT: Also DJ made some nice runtime plots at the beginning of the thread it's about an hour with R123 li-on

We did some major upgrades on our server room at work last weekend the [email protected] lasted 4 hours in different modes no problem.



@goldserve,

Which POP do you have? the one for AAA? I'm using the latest DJ software which has the improved burst mode, simplified UI (shorter on/off 70ms as opposed to 100ms) better for kroll clicky.


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## goldserve (Mar 31, 2005)

*Re: Arc-AAA-Lux-POPL Multi-brightness, Multi-featu*

cgpeanut:

I just ordered the latest and greatest improved version as well. Hope to see some pics! Thanks.


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## cgpeanut (Mar 31, 2005)

*3*

Kevin,

When I did the Q3 mod the wife took the digital camera so no pics on the q3 board and stupid me I potted it, I'm still looking for the digital camera /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

The IMS reflector is a bit taller than the stock reflector so you may want to shorthen that ring. But to be honest, I think the stock reflector is good enough, not much gain with the IMS and a lot more work. I wanted to replace the plastic lens that's why I did it. 

I added a p-channel fet IRLML6401 for reverse polarity protection in the Q3 circuit, incase you place the R123 backwards it will prevent the uPIC from blowing. 

DJ & I tested this feature, and it works, Placed the R123 in there for more than 30mins, flipped it back, no problem. 

Also the LDO chips I used are in DCQ package like this:







A lot bigger I wanted to use all the real estate in the Q3 board.. Pin outs are different from the sot-23's DJ sent you so component layout will not be the same.


Since the Q3 board is bigger /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif you can place the components more to the center that way the aluminum ring sits flat.


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## goldserve (Mar 31, 2005)

*Re: 3*

CG:

I was planning to use the stock PCB from the Q3. It seems as the stock board is totoally flat so by nature of design, of the battery was flipped around, it should not conduct if the contact for the bottom of the battery is indented. Anyways, maybe i'll look into a FET as well. Thanks.

I found i have this SOT. Circuit looks the same as your PMOS but the limits are different. Do you think this will work?

http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/pip/BSS84.html


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## milkyspit (Apr 4, 2005)

*Re: 3*

Not bad! I know what I'll be reading at lunchtime today. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif


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## cgpeanut (Apr 6, 2005)

*Re: 3*

Finally got some time and modded me an Arc-AA using the POP, did some tweaking with the circuit to make if nice and bright /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif






Low Mode:






High Mode






Survival Mode:






This will be my next EDC until I make another POP out of a solitaire using tonyb's micro lens as in this Q3 with POP. 











Beam shot of the micro lens with high dome using the q3 survival mode setting shows a square but broad hotspot, no side spill at all.

POP Arc-AA/AAA or solitaire will make a good match using this micro lens IMHO.


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## vacuum3d (Apr 6, 2005)

*Re: 3*

Nice looking ArcAA.

I finally got time to put together another POP. This time, the circuit behaves much better. I definitely had soldering problem in the first one. Now I need to find another empty Arc AA head to replace my bad POP with.


ernest


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## cgpeanut (Apr 7, 2005)

*Re: 3*

Why thanks vacuum3d /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif you can bend the uPIC pins and solder directly to the LDO chip, The trick I find usefull is apply flux to the joints then, cut a tiny, tiny bit of solder and pick it up with the soldering iron, then solder the joints. You only apply the right amount of solder to the joints and the flux helps adhere the joints together and prevent some solder sticking someplace else. I also used wire wrap to solder hard to reach and delicate places they bend easily and last longer than conventional wires.


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## legtu (May 16, 2006)

*Re: 3*

Just a bump in order to add it to the search index.


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