# New Lathe PM1440



## StrikerDown (May 3, 2009)

Progress is made!

I am ready, Spent much of yesterday re-arranging the garage for the new beast and getting the electrical ready.

http://precisionmatthews.com/PM1440Lathe.html







Where is that truck!:shrug:


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## wquiles (May 3, 2009)

Photos - we need photos !!!

:devil:

Will


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## Pyall (May 3, 2009)

Nice machine.
Mine is a 30 year old Jet 1024 that I got for 400 bucks. It even had an Aloris quick change tool post on it and an ice cream bucket full of carbide inserts and holders for them. I figured even if the lathe turned out to be a dud that the post and tools would be worth the 400 anyways.
It ended up working great after a little work on it.


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## darkzero (May 3, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Photos - we need photos !!!
> 
> :devil:
> 
> Will


 



:twothumbs


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## StrikerDown (May 3, 2009)

Pyall said:


> Nice machine.
> Mine is a 30 year old Jet 1024 that I got for 400 bucks. It even had an Aloris quick change tool post on it and an ice cream bucket full of carbide inserts and holders for them. I figured even if the lathe turned out to be a dud that the post and tools would be worth the 400 anyways.
> It ended up working great after a little work on it.


 
Nice, I like a good deal, I just don't seem to find them until after I bought something else. Mine is supposed to come with an Aloris type (wedge) Phase II. I have a serious lack of tooling... look out eBay!



wquiles said:


> Photos - we need photos !!!
> 
> :devil:
> 
> Will


 


darkzero said:


> :twothumbs


 

Patients young machine warriors! You have pics of all the hardware in my possession! 

Matt said Friday that it was ready to ship and I should have it this week... That seems a tad quick to me. When I ordered my Rotary table from Enco, it shipped by truck from their location 2 hours from me and it took 6 working days to get it. Too bad Enco won't allow will calls!

Waiting waiting waiting:candle:


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## Mirage_Man (May 3, 2009)

Just thought you'd like to know you can see much larger close-up pictures on Matt's other site. http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1440.htmlhttp://precisionmatthews.com/PM1440Lathe.html


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## StrikerDown (May 3, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Just thought you'd like to know you can see much larger close-up pictures on Matt's other site. http://www.machinetoolonline.com/PM1440.html


 
Thanks Brian. The wife was waiting on me to go out and I was in a rush when I posted that.

My 1440 also comes with the DRO, 5C collet closer, but not the taper attachment, not available right now.


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## Mirage_Man (May 3, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Thanks Brian. The wife was waiting on me to go out and I was in a rush when I posted that.
> 
> My 1440 also comes with the DRO, 5C collet closer, but not the taper attachment, not available right now.



Which DRO are you getting?


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## StrikerDown (May 4, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Which DRO are you getting?


 
The Factory installed DRO. 
They were on special, the 1440 w/DRO and free shipping was still about $500 less than the regular price w/out DRO!

I just hope it works out as well as yours and Will's.

Oh, the collet closer was another $150.. I am sure it is a high quality piece


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## Mirage_Man (May 4, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> The Factory installed DRO.



What is that? Sino? Easson?


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## wquiles (May 4, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> What is that? Sino? Easson?



Mine came with the Sino, and it has been flawless. It only has been about 5 months with it, but I am really happy with it 

Will


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## cmacclel (May 4, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> The Factory installed DRO.
> They were on special, the 1440 w/DRO and free shipping was still about $500 less than the regular price w/out DRO!
> 
> I just hope it works out as well as yours and Will's.
> ...


 
My Collet closer was $995 

Mac


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## StrikerDown (May 4, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> What is that? Sino? Easson?



?... I don't know! I assumed it was like Will's. It's all Chinese to me! It was basically free so if it works it should be better than no DRO!



cmacclel said:


> My Collet closer was $995
> 
> Mac



I bet your lathe cost a tad more too!

What ever it is I am certain it will be the finest Asian quality! Probably on par with a Grizzly 4003G


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## gadget_lover (May 4, 2009)

You may well be pleased by the "Sino" dro. I'm using a Sino on my mill, and have been quite pleased with what I can do with it. I don't know if it will last 20 years, but it works well now.

The electronics are not as expensive to make as they used to be. It costs very little to add functions like computing arcs or laying out bolt circles. I have yet to play with all the features of mine.

Daniel


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## StrikerDown (May 4, 2009)

Cool, I have never used a DRO but can definitely see the advantages, counting feed handle turns is not fun and easy to mess up when turning fast to get to the next cut. Oops one turn too many!

I can't wait to start playing with it.

Daniel,

Where did you get the DRO on your mill? 

I wonder if it fit my RF 31?


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## gadget_lover (May 4, 2009)

I got the three axis DRO for my knee mill from shars. Then I added a stand alone unit for the quill. That givesme X, Y, Z (knee) and Q.

The problems with the glass scales is that they are bulky. Finding a munting spot can therefore be difficult.

I think that the 12x32 will work for the RF31.

http://www.shars.com/products/view/...ital_readout_glass_linear_Mill_System_Package


Daniel


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## gadget_lover (May 4, 2009)

The two axis head uses essentially the same unit as the 3 axis head

Daniel


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## StrikerDown (May 4, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> I got the three axis DRO for my knee mill from shars. Then I added a stand alone unit for the quill. That givesme X, Y, Z (knee) and Q.
> 
> The problems with the glass scales is that they are bulky. Finding a munting spot can therefore be difficult.
> 
> ...



Those seem pretty reasonable. What is the stand alone unit?

My biggest problem is with the quill, it has lots of backlash. I set the depth and lock the spindle then I have noticed the fine adjust knob working itself backwards into the backlash so if I don't remember exactly where the adjustment was I'm in trouble for the next pass. (does this make sense?)


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## gadget_lover (May 4, 2009)

My quill DRO is very similar to the $36 one on at shars.com.

http://www.shars.com/products/view/7588/4quot_Vertical_Digital_Machine_Scale

Since it attaches to the mill's head and to the quill itself, the backlash becomes less of a hassle.

The reader head is about 2 inches, so the length of the scale will be larger than the travel. Mine has 3.5 inches of travel (despite the reading of 4 on the embossed label) and I got the 4 inch unit which is 6 inches long.

The Sino DRO head :






The stand alone quill head:






The stand alone installation:






Daniel


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## precisionworks (May 4, 2009)

> I set the depth and lock the spindle then I have noticed the fine adjust knob working itself backwards into the backlash


It shouldn't do that, Ray. Be sure to turn in the black (end) knob to engage the fine downfeed, dial down to the setting you want, and lock the quill with the silver handle on the left side of the head. For the next pass, unlock, dial down, lock again. There should be zero movement ... at least there is on mine.

It sounds like the black knob may not be fully turned in.


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## StrikerDown (May 4, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> My quill DRO is very similar to the $36 one on at shars.com.
> 
> http://www.shars.com/products/view/7588/4quot_Vertical_Digital_Machine_Scale
> 
> ...



Nice, very nice... ouch, the wallet is fighting back. I might start with stand alone first!



precisionworks said:


> It shouldn't do that, Ray. Be sure to turn in the black (end) knob to engage the fine downfeed, dial down to the setting you want, and lock the quill with the silver handle on the left side of the head. For the next pass, unlock, dial down, lock again. There should be zero movement ... at least there is on mine.
> 
> It sounds like the black knob may not be fully turned in.



With the "black (end) knob" loose and the taper disengaged you are in drill press mode, correct? 

If so, then yes the knob was tight and the drill press down feed is locked to the fine down feed dial. With the quill locked the fine down feed dial can be moved back and forth in the back lash, without the quill depth changing. the problem is that with mine when the quill is locked the fine dial vibrates back into the back lash by itself, the depth adjustment does not change just the dial, then I have to remember where it was so I can dial it down to the next increment. I am thinking that with a DRO I would not have to try to remember, just dial down to the desired setting on the DRO. 
It would be easier to do if the micrometer ring were adjustable on the Fine down feed like the X and Y axi.


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## Mirage_Man (May 4, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Those seem pretty reasonable. What is the stand alone unit?
> 
> My biggest problem is with the quill, it has lots of backlash. I set the depth and lock the spindle then I have noticed the fine adjust knob working itself backwards into the backlash so if I don't remember exactly where the adjustment was I'm in trouble for the next pass. (does this make sense?)



Mine has exactly the same problem. It freakin' sucks! I need a quill DRO like THIS. I just haven't had the moolah to get one yet. I know I could make something but it looks so clean with the molded cover and all.


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## precisionworks (May 4, 2009)

> when the quill is locked the fine dial vibrates back into the back lash by itself


There's a tiny set screw that locks the fine dial ... is it tight?


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## StrikerDown (May 5, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Mine has exactly the same problem. It freakin' sucks! I need a quill DRO like THIS. I just haven't had the moolah to get one yet. I know I could make something but it looks so clean with the molded cover and all.


 
I'm not alone then. Yes, that that does look nice. My wallet sympathizes with yours!

I wonder if there is any adjustment for the backlash or at least a tension adjustment to stop the wheel from turning so easily.


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## StrikerDown (May 5, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> There's a tiny set screw that locks the fine dial ... is it tight?


 
I will check that tomorrow. If this set screw locks the dial to the shaft on a large flat then it could be the reason for the excess movement of the dial that gives the feel of excess lash. That could also explain it feeling real loose.

Thanks Barry


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## Mirage_Man (May 5, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> There's a tiny set screw that locks the fine dial ... is it tight?



Mine is tight. It's that the wheel has slop in it even when the quill is locked.


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## gadget_lover (May 5, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Mine has exactly the same problem. It freakin' sucks! I need a quill DRO like THIS. I just haven't had the moolah to get one yet. I know I could make something but it looks so clean with the molded cover and all.



I can not quite tell what that DRO impacts.

If you add that DRO as described in the docs, can you still use the depth stop? I ask because I find myself using the DRO to set the stop for repetitive holes. For some reason I still like to watch the drill rather than the display. The stop allows me to watch the work while drilling.


Thanks


Daniel


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## StrikerDown (May 5, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> I can not quite tell what that DRO impacts.
> 
> If you add that DRO as described in the docs, can you still use the depth stop? I ask because I find myself using the DRO to set the stop for repetitive holes. For some reason I still like to watch the drill rather than the display. The stop allows me to watch the work while drilling.
> 
> ...


 
It looks like it completely replaces the stop, in my case that is ok since I took the stop out because it gets in the way when using the indicol. I did put it back the other day to countersink a bunch of holes, it only takes a minute or so. But with a DRO the stop would not really be needed.


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## wquiles (May 5, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> It shouldn't do that, Ray. Be sure to turn in the black (end) knob to engage the fine downfeed, dial down to the setting you want, and lock the quill with the silver handle on the left side of the head. For the next pass, unlock, dial down, lock again. There should be zero movement ... at least there is on mine.
> 
> It sounds like the black knob may not be fully turned in.



Same here. On my knee mill, there is zero movement once locked. I just have to add the stand along quill head/display so that I don't have to read the stupid dials (and have to account for backlash). 

Will


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## Mirage_Man (May 6, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Same here. On my knee mill, there is zero movement once locked. I just have to add the stand along quill head/display so that I don't have to read the stupid dials (and have to account for backlash).
> 
> Will



I guess this is one of those areas that you get what you pay for. :shrug:


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## StrikerDown (May 6, 2009)

I checked the set screws they are tight, the one on the knob and the one on the micro dial. But the down feed dial with the quil locked has about .015 movement.


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## Mirage_Man (May 6, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> I checked the set screws they are tight, the one on the knob and the one on the micro dial. But the down feed dial with the quil locked has about .015 movement.



Same here.


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## precisionworks (May 6, 2009)

I can't remember how to adjust this, but there is a way ... seems like it has to do with end play of the fine adjust shaft, which controls gear engagement. Mine has zero movement between cuts.


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## StrikerDown (May 6, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> I can't remember how to adjust this, but there is a way ... seems like it has to do with end play of the fine adjust shaft, which controls gear engagement. Mine has zero movement between cuts.


 
I guess we need to remember our RF-31's were built under the strictest Chinese quality control.


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## StrikerDown (May 8, 2009)

Woo Hoo! The trucking company called for a Monday afternoon delivery!


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## wquiles (May 8, 2009)

:twothumbs


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## gadget_lover (May 8, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Woo Hoo! The trucking company called for a Monday afternoon delivery!



Well what are the chances of that! You know, that they call you just before the longest weekend of the year to let you know it's coming SOON.

Of course any weekend becomes long under these circumstances.





Daniel


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## StrikerDown (May 8, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> Well what are the chances of that! You know, that they call you just before the longest weekend of the year to let you know it's coming SOON.
> 
> Of course any weekend becomes long under these circumstances.
> 
> ...



Isn't that the truth! :candle:

I am sure it would have been here today (Friday) as promised except tomorrow is my birthday! They just couldn't be on time for that.  

I feel like a Mervyn's Commercial! Waiting ,waiting, waiting! 

This way I will have plenty of time to charge the camera batteries!


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## StrikerDown (May 11, 2009)

*Huh! Well I promised pictures!*

Well today it became appearant why the wife has been concerned of late about the garage "free space" disappearing to machinery. 

Today under the guise of a Mother's day get together I had a Birthday Party! And not to mention a heart stopping shocker of a surprise.

The Wife bought this old car almost a year ago for my birthday (yesterday)... what a surprise! Oh and it is scarry how well she keeps a secret!












 (HOLY CRAP)

PS: We will see if the lathe and it's pics arrive tomorrow!


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## gadget_lover (May 11, 2009)

*Re: Huh! Well I promised pictures!*

Poor Ray... My heart just bleeds for you.

 Not 

That SUV will not mind sitting in the driveway from now on.

Daniel


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## wquiles (May 11, 2009)

*Re: Huh! Well I promised pictures!*

Congrats on the present Ray 




gadget_lover said:


> That SUV will not mind sitting in the driveway from now on.


My thoughts exactly :devil:

Will


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## Mirage_Man (May 11, 2009)

Wow! What a great wife you have. Congrats on the car.


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## cmacclel (May 11, 2009)

Does your wife have any sisters......DANG!

Mac


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## StrikerDown (May 11, 2009)

Thank you. 
We have been married for over 31 years! (I got lucky)

The trucking company called... postponed delivery until tomorrow!


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## wquiles (May 11, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Thank you.
> We have been married for over 31 years! (I got lucky)


Something to look forward to. This year will be number 20 for my wife and I, so I hope that in the next 11 years I might get lucky as well and get my own car gift :devil:




StrikerDown said:


> The trucking company called... postponed delivery until tomorrow!


That just means you have more time to clean/prepare the area for the new lathe ...

Who am I kidding? I would be frustrated as well  

My lathe was also delivered a week late, since it was the week of Dec 25, so the delivery company was off a couple of days while the lathe sat in their storage area. Imagine their nerve! To take a couple of days off during Christmas! Who do they think they are? Regular people???

Will


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## Mick (May 11, 2009)

*Re: New Lathe PM1440 and Cobra*

I would love to see some specs on your new Cobra "Flashlight" Ray?
:twothumbs


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## StrikerDown (May 11, 2009)

*Re: New Lathe PM1440 and Cobra*



Mick said:


> I would to see some specs on your new Cobra "Flashlight" Ray?
> :twothumbs


 
I don't have any specs, beam shots might be possible. 
It needs a mod, old fashion incan, must be somthing better out there! :candle:


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## StrikerDown (May 11, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Something to look forward to. This year will be number 20 for my wife and I, so I hope that in the next 11 years I might get lucky as well and get my own car gift :devil:
> 
> That just means you have more time to clean/prepare the area for the new lathe ...
> 
> ...


 
:devil: Good luck... remember the pics!

I didn't really expect it this soon, it only shipped last Monday so this is only a week, the only frustration is they made an appointment then cancelled it. At least I had not rented a trailer to get it home. Stuff happens no biggie! :mecry:

I remember you anxiously waiting... The truckers just don't get it, do they! :sigh:


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## StrikerDown (May 13, 2009)

WaaHoo! It’s here!



Wait for it! 



Wait! :tired:





































I plan on putting a 2X4 steel box base on it like the mill except with wheels/castors for portability in addition to the leveling feet.


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## wquiles (May 13, 2009)

Definitely a beautiful thing - congrats


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## Mirage_Man (May 13, 2009)

Alright Ray! Party time!

So you got a collet chuck and collet closer?


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## StrikerDown (May 13, 2009)

A Collet Closer is what we were referring to in all of our correspondence, never was a collet chuck mentioned verbally or in writing and when he said he could add it to this lathe for $150.00 I jumped on it. Here is the most recent email with his response on top. Based on this I sent him the payment. The invoice that came with the machine shows a collet chuck-$150.00. 

Being a newbie I don't really know the difference. The collet closer has a lever on the outboard end like the pictures on his website. That was what I thought I was getting and based on the email wouldn't you also think that? Is there much difference in the way they work. I assume that the collett closer is easier or faster to use, put the part in pull the lever and go, I haven't even looked at the C chuck yet so I don't know how it works.

Hi Ray,
 OK Sounds good.The other option would be, instead of the 2% discount, it would be $4200, and I could include a 33pc. 5C Collet set for no extra cost. (they are normally $99)
 You may already have collets, thats no problem, just a suggestion.

 Thanks again!
Matt

It would get made out to and sent to our address below.


Quality Machine Tools
<div>701 Parkway View Dr.
Pittsburgh, PA 15205
Ph# 412-787-2876
www.machinetoolonline.com
www.thermalarcwelders.com 
Email


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## KC2IXE (May 13, 2009)

BIG difference between the 2, particularly if you are doing production work. One of the main reasons I want to replace my lathe is that the collet closer only goes to 1/2". Sure, I could buy a collet chuck, but for me? Nope


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## StrikerDown (May 16, 2009)

Okay, I needed to get the lathe home and I thought it would be nice to have it a litte bit higher so I won't have to bend over so much using it. Also it would be nice to make it easier to move to get to the electrics, if I ever need to, since it has to be stuffed up against a wall ,or for the next house change! What to do. I know , put it on a base kind of like the mill only with wheels!

That's been today's project.

My butt is dragging but it's all done and ready to roll on the trailer when I can get it.

Here is the left base, looks like the right, only bigger:






Since I will be rolling this on and off the trailer, not just on smooth floors, I decided to use thread inserts (Nutter) to hold the bases to the lathe with a little extra bite:






Primer and paint:






Here is the left and right bases bolted up. You can just barely see the leveling bolts without the rubber black and orange feet:










I was a whoopt puppy and forgot to take pics with the Base to Base bracing in place, I welded it in with the bases in place adding a little extra rigidity for rolling over bumps. The two pedistals are only held together with a sheet metal panel and four little screws and the lathe of course. While the pedistals are quite sturdilly built I figured another piece of 4X2 box tubing welded between the two at the bottom won't hurt anything. 

I thought I was so smart getting the cantilevered castor mounting pads just right so there is 1/8" minimum clearance between the wheel and frame where the leveling jacks mount. Oops forgot the leveling feet are kinda big! I have to remove the feet to roll it around and screw them back on to level it, no biggie I will not be moving it often, especially once it gets leveled with the picky machinist level! Will says it is a real PITA!

I'm real happy with the results, I will have more to bore you with when I get to miving it!


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## wquiles (May 17, 2009)

Nice work Ray :thumbsup:

That is the same type of leveling/raising platform that I need for my lathe as well 

Will


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## KC2IXE (May 17, 2009)

speaking of bases - why do they make lathes so darned LOW? They still make them ste same height they were 70 years ago - prople HAVE gotten taller and larger


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## Mirage_Man (May 17, 2009)

KC2IXE said:


> speaking of bases - why do they make lathes so darned LOW? They still make them ste same height they were 70 years ago - prople HAVE gotten taller and larger



Tell me about it. I'm 6'5" and ad to raise mine like 5" to get it to a comfortable height.


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## cmacclel (May 17, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Tell me about it. I'm 6'5" and ad to raise mine like 5" to get it to a comfortable height.


 
Ya...........6'5" enough said there Mr. Jolly 


BTW Sweet job on the bases!

Mac


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## StrikerDown (May 17, 2009)

wquiles said:


> Nice work Ray :thumbsup:
> 
> That is the same type of leveling/raising platform that I need for my lathe as well
> 
> Will


 

Thanks guys.

Will,

Speaking of your lathe, did it come with oil in all the gear boxes? 

And is your owner manual almost useless?

All the oil level sight glasses on mine show oil half way up the glass.

I plugged it and ran it... damn is it ever quiet... a whole bunch quieter than my 7X10!

The run in instructions says to put it in slowest speed and run it in for 20 min that's it. Most lathes I have seen say do that in each gear don't they?


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## cmacclel (May 17, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Most lathes I have seen say do that in each gear don't they?


 

All gears and both forward and reverse.


Mac


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## Mirage_Man (May 17, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> Will,
> 
> ...


 
Ray,

Mine came ready to plug in and go. Full of oil and already had the break in process done by Matt's guys. Is it possible they already ran yours as well?

It's amazing how quiet the enclosed gear box is compared to my old SB heavy 10's open gear box.



StrikerDown said:


> The run in instructions says to put it in slowest speed and run it in for 20 min that's it. Most lathes I have seen say do that in each gear don't they?


 
Yes, forward and reverse as well if I'm not mistaken.


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## StrikerDown (May 17, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Ray,
> 
> Mine came ready to plug in and go. Full of oil and already had the break in process done by Matt's guys. Is it possible they already ran yours as well?
> 
> It's amazing how quiet the enclosed gear box is compared to my old SB heavy 10's open gear box.


 
I'll email Matt to see if they did that.



Mirage_Man said:


> Yes, forward and reverse as well if I'm not mistaken.


 
That's what I thought, thanks Chris and Brian. I guess start out in the low speed, forward and reverse, then just work up one speed at a time from there.

WooHoo, can't wait to get it home!


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## wquiles (May 17, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> Speaking of your lathe, did it come with oil in all the gear boxes?


Yes, all filled.




StrikerDown said:


> And is your owner manual almost useless?


Absolutely. Very little valuable information.




StrikerDown said:


> The run in instructions says to put it in slowest speed and run it in for 20 min that's it. Most lathes I have seen say do that in each gear don't they?


Yup, all speeds, both FW and RV. And then do a fluid change 

Will


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## StrikerDown (May 18, 2009)

Here are the pics of the finished base assembly that I forgot to take last thing Saturday.


Front view:












I pre-drilled the inboard ends on both sides should I later need to add extra leveling feet.






View from the rear:





You can see here the leveling pads are just a tad close to the castor when they swing to the inside. They will be left off until it's in place then screwed onto the leveleing jack screws:





Unless I get run over with work I will try to get the drop trailer and drag her home tomorrow. 

I ran the break in on the the two lowest gears today when I got a little time.


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## Mirage_Man (May 18, 2009)

Looking good Ray. :thumbsup:

Bet you can't wait to make some chips?


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## StrikerDown (May 19, 2009)

Mirage_Man said:


> Looking good Ray. :thumbsup:
> 
> Bet you can't wait to make some chips?


 
I'm chipin at the bit... or something like that

Right now tomorrow morning is looking slow, might get time to rent the trailer and bring it home.


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## jtg (May 21, 2009)

Ray,
Have you had a chance to try out your lathe? If so what do you think of the quality.
I am considering a PM lathe also and any input you can give would be great.
thanks.
john


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## jtg (May 21, 2009)

Ray,
have you had a chance to make any chips.
I would love to know what you think about the lathe. I am considering purchasing a PM lathe also.
thanks,
john


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## StrikerDown (May 24, 2009)

jtg said:


> Ray,





jtg said:


> have you had a chance to make any chips.
> I would love to know what you think about the lathe. I am considering purchasing a PM lathe also.
> Thanks,
> john



 
Only a few chips, I just got it home. Most of the time I have spent with it has been the break in.
 
The apron, cross slide and compound are real smooth compared to the HF 7X10. It runs pretty quite in all of the gears. I will know more about it when I get a chance to learn how all the bells and whistles work. 
 
The few chips I have made were to make an adapter to screw 1/4-20 SS screws into so I could reshape the heads and polish them. The adaptor was a short piece of 1/2" brass, center drilled and tapped to hold the screws for turning. It was so effortless it felt like cutting air! The SS screws turned like butter. Last time I cut SS on the small lathe it was slow going! This was too easy. I am going to like it! :twothumbs


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## StrikerDown (May 24, 2009)

*The Move!*

Last week I got a chance to move the beast home! The Rolling base worked perfectly. I moved the thing into the drop trailer by my self. Drove it home, backed up my steep driveway and unloaded it by myself! All the work building the bases paid off big time and if I ever need to move it again it will be paying dividends.

Here it is straped in the trailer:




















And here we are in place in the garage:











Now I need to spend some time getting it level and learning feed and speed knobs and DRO. Woo Hoo!


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## wquiles (May 24, 2009)

*Re: The Move!*



StrikerDown said:


> It was so effortless it felt like cutting air! The SS screws turned like butter. Last time I cut SS on the small lathe it was slow going! This was too easy. I am going to like it! :twothumbs[/FONT][/COLOR]


Yup - Just like I felt when I first used the 12x machine - coming from the 8x machine, everything seems smoother and faster 





StrikerDown said:


> Last week I got a chance to move the beast home! The Rolling base worked perfectly. I moved the thing into the drop trailer by my self. Drove it home, backed up my steep driveway and unloaded it by myself! All the work building the bases paid off big time and if I ever need to move it again it will be paying dividends.
> 
> (snip pics)
> 
> Now I need to spend some time getting it level and learning feed and speed knobs and DRO. Woo Hoo!


Awesome - looks great!


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## precisionworks (May 24, 2009)

Cool ... you'll love the DRO!


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## KC2IXE (May 24, 2009)

I looked at the Jet 1440 machine at Eastec (they actually had quite a booth - I was surprised) - I'd never get one down my stairs - sigh


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## StrikerDown (May 24, 2009)

precisionworks said:


> Cool ... you'll love the DRO!


 
I can see the advantages of a DRO... now to figure it out! it shouldn't be difficult I just need to take the time to get into the manual.



KC2IXE, I'm not a rigger but I think I could get a lathe down the stairs. Of course if you want it in usable condition afterwards...


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## KC2IXE (May 25, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> ...snip...
> KC2IXE, I'm not a rigger but I think I could get a lathe down the stairs. Of course if you want it in usable condition afterwards...



Bet you couldn't (short of cutting it apart) - 27" wide stairs - it's to wide to fit!


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## StrikerDown (May 26, 2009)

There you go, wanting it in one piece when I'm done!


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## KC2IXE (May 26, 2009)

Back during my college years, I was an Iron worker. It's actually where I learned to use a lathe/mill (in the fab shop doing some of the fancy stuff). Anyway, I spent a LOT of time rigging steel (and actually rigging hoists onto cranes) is tight spots. Rigging I understand, from the school of hard knocks. If I say there is NO way to get it down there - there is no way. Ive moved machines into spots where the professional machinery riggers have said "No Way"

One of the lathes I'm looking at is 28 inches wide at the tool tray. The bottom 12" inches of the stairs is 28 3/8" wide - I'm seriously thinking of buying it - take the lathe off the stand, flip the stand over, lower down the stairs upside down, re-assemble the lathe once it's in the basement!

They DO say if I get an OLD model (pre say 1970), they are 27 wide at the tool tray, and I can have it rebuilt/CNC'd - then I could bring it down in 1 piece, as I have 27.25" if I go upright, but I still have to stand it on end to make the turns at the top/bottom of the steps

And yes, I rigged my Burke MVN down those stairs! Took about 2 hours with 3 people


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## gadget_lover (May 26, 2009)

Just kidding....

I believe that you could use the concept of a broach. A model PM1440 weighing a ton or two, coming down the 28 inch wide stairs will leave you with a stairway that is 30 inches when it reaches the bottom. 

The second lathe will then have sufficient clearance to make it down unscathed.  How you get the first one out of there is an exercise left to the reader.

Daniel


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## StrikerDown (May 26, 2009)

gadget_lover said:


> Just kidding....
> 
> I believe that you could use the concept of a broach. A model PM1440 weighing a ton or two, coming down the 28 inch wide stairs will leave you with a stairway that is 30 inches when it reaches the bottom.
> 
> ...



:twothumbs

I could get it in there but none of my options will meet building codes, health and safety, or FAA regulations! I mean if terminal velocity won't do it... :naughty:

Then there is the issue of it being in way too many pieces! Not to mention the house.

KC2IXE,

Sorry, I know we are not being much (any) help. But I do think for you to get the machine you really need, or is it want, then you need to move or get a shop somewhere else, on ground level with a big door. I know, you said that won't work either.


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## KC2IXE (May 26, 2009)

StrikerDown said:


> KC2IXE,
> 
> Sorry, I know we are not being much (any) help. But I do think for you to get the machine you really need, or is it want, then you need to move or get a shop somewhere else, on ground level with a big door. I know, you said that won't work either.



Yeah - I looked at something like 65 houses in the area before I bought this one. Believe it or not, this had one of the BETTER basements to get into. There was one other nice one, but the extra $100K and the like...

Around here, a 2 car garage is rare - sigh. So are ranch houses etc


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## bluwolf (Jun 4, 2009)

I know I'm a little late here. But still catching up on posts. 

That rolling base you made looks terrific, very professional. The casters don't look like the usual heavy duty type. Where did you find those? And are they working okay for you? Sorry if you already explained them and I missed it.

Mike


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## StrikerDown (Jun 4, 2009)

Thank you... I am by no means a professional welder, there was a couple small spots of bubble gum but for the most part it came out real well. 

I found the wheels at a local surplus/metals supplier. They were new and rated at 350lb capacity each, which times four is close to the shipping weight of the lathe. On concrete it pushes like a dream with no sign of overload and I had no trouble pushing it up the short ramp of the drop trailer or moving it around the garage by my self! Of course with castors on each corner you do have to be extra careful around corners but it is very easy to push exactly where you want it without the back and forth action you might have with two castors and two rigid wheels.

I need to spend some time to figure out the feed speeds on this thing the owners manual is real poor, it doesn't even identify all of the feed control dials. I think the chart on the front of the machine is a matrix of sorts!. I just need to spend the time to figure it out... The new car has been some what of a distraction, dang it! Although I still don't have an operational CNMG cutter I have attached some old TPG cutting tools I had and MAN does this thing cut smooth and effortlessly!

And the DRO manual is better but not a lot. Hey Will, Did you figure out how to set your DRO to default to the INCH mode instead of MM?


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## precisionworks (Jun 4, 2009)

> Although I still don't have an operational CNMG cutter


If you have $79 to spare, MSC has a 1" boring bar plus 10 CNMG-432 inserts ... I just ordered one. 

*MSC/J&L Metalworking #:* 84285451

Don't forget to buy a 1" holder for your tool post if you buy that bar. Most sets come with a 3/4" holder.


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## StrikerDown (Jun 4, 2009)

That sounds like a pretty good deal, but I was referring to my insert holder for the lathe. I should have a couple carbide end mill to tackle it with shortly.


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## chempro (Jun 30, 2009)

StrikerDown,

I'm new to the forum, but I have a PM1440 on the way and wondered if you might have any plans for the very nice base you built for yours?


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## StrikerDown (Jun 30, 2009)

chempro said:


> StrikerDown,
> 
> I'm new to the forum, but I have a PM1440 on the way and wondered if you might have any plans for the very nice base you built for yours?



Nothing on paper. I thought about how I wanted it built... measured twice, cut, drilled, welded, painted, bolted.

Oh, I took a few pics along the way too.

I could measure the stand bottoms for you but I'm not sure how consistent they are from one to the next. 

I made the bases slightly larger so there would not be any hang over if the bottoms were not perfectly square or my bases decided to not be square! 

Let me know if you want measurements.


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## BryanM (Oct 10, 2011)

I have read through this older post and am wondering how these PM 1440 lathes have worked out for you guys. I am in the market for a 12-14" lathe and this is one of the models I am looking at, mostly because of the slower rpm for threading. So, how do you guys like them? Can you give some feedback on any troubles you have had or what your overall experience has been?


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## StrikerDown (Oct 12, 2011)

Bryan, for some reason I didn't see when your post popped this thread up to the top.
Overall I love this machine, Plenty of room to work on good sized projects, rigid enough to work fairly quick with deep cuts, decent selection of speeds and easy the change gear box, even if deciphering the speed chart requires a degree in Chinglish! 
If the large bore would have been available I would have gone that route.
The one major problem I have with it is oil leaking from the head or gearbox areas into the chip tray. No idea how to fix it and It is too far away to send back!


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## BVH (Oct 12, 2011)

I have not seen it till now also and I check here a few times per day. I believe that because Bryan is new to the forum, his first post may have had to make it way here thru a moderator?


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## precisionworks (Oct 12, 2011)

> oil leaking from the head or gearbox areas into the chip tray.


Amazing that there is no extra charge for the total loss lubrication ... to paraphrase an old Harley saying "Chinese lathes don't leak but they do mark their territory" :devil:

Of the three or four leaks on my lathe (not sure how many as it really doesn't matter) the only one of any concern is that the apron drips onto the foot brake pedal - sorta like stepping on ice if you hit it just right. Easier to keep pouring oil into the top than to tear the apron down.

Electricals are the other biggie but all mine have been totally gutted & replaced. About 5 years seems to be the lifespan on the electrics.


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## StrikerDown (Oct 12, 2011)

precisionworks said:


> Amazing that there is no extra charge for the total loss lubrication ... to paraphrase an old Harley saying "Chinese lathes don't leak but they do mark their territory" :devil:
> 
> Of the three or four leaks on my lathe (not sure how many as it really doesn't matter) the only one of any concern is that the apron drips onto the foot brake pedal - sorta like stepping on ice if you hit it just right. Easier to keep pouring oil into the top than to tear the apron down.
> 
> Electricals are the other biggie but all mine have been totally gutted & replaced. About 5 years seems to be the lifespan on the electrics.



Since going to belt drive they don't usually mark their spot much!

You mean I have electrical problems to look forward to! That's exciting!


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## darkzero (Oct 12, 2011)

StrikerDown said:


> deciphering the speed chart requires a degree in Chinglish!



Still probably won't do you any good Ray. I always say.....

I speak english, I'm Chinese, & my last name is Ching (literally)....I still don't fully understand Chinglish! 





StrikerDown said:


> The one major problem I have with it is oil leaking from the head or gearbox areas into the chip tray.



But aren't lathes supposed to leak eventually? 

The very first time I changed the oil in my lathe I must of overfilled way too much. I had oil leaking out every possible place including out the spindle.  Luckily I used sealant for the mounting bolts inbetween the cabinets, chip pan, & lathe (even though I planned on never using the coolant system) otherwise my left side cabinet would have been full with oil!

I've learned how much I can fill max without the crazy leaking but I still get very minor leaks from the gearbox & bottom of the apron. I think I know how to stop the apron leak (which I'll try the next oil change) but for the gearbox I'm not going to even bother. The leaks from the gearbox & apron are so very minor. I've noticed that if I use the lathe every few days or so, it won't leak. It only drips very slowly if it has not been ran for at least a week or so.


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## BVH (Oct 12, 2011)

Sounds like my old 67' and 68' Leaky T's! Who's old enough to fill in the full name???


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## precisionworks (Oct 13, 2011)

Camaro with T-top?


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