# Armytek Prime C2 first impressions



## CodyCash (Jan 21, 2015)

Just received the new Armytek Prime C2. Build quality is fabulous, very compact and sleek. Comes with clip and O rings and sheath but it did not come with an operation manual so Im flying solo figuring it out (discovered Armytek had the download available later). Emitter is the XM-L2 U2 "White Light". Runs on 1x18650 or 2x123's. Reads "Brightest for City" on the side of the unit lol. Fooling around with it I've discovered 6 modes total, 2 lines of operation, modes operate as follows. From off: single press to turn on, hold to cycle through modes low-med-high. From off, hold down for firefly 1-2, continue holding to cycle all 6 modes, release to choose mode. For turbo or max double click button while in the on position from any setting. 

Armytek specifies output and runtimes as follows:
firefly #1 .2LM 100days
firefly #2 2LM 18days
low 35LM 48hrs
med 200LM 9hr
high 420LM 4.8hrs
Turbo 1050LM 1.5hrs

The beam pattern is floody with a polished reflector and shallow emitter depth. The light is almost the same size as the Wizard and I can see that the design is basically a slightly elongated Wizard with a forward bezel instead of an angled unit. No special modes but the pro version does offer them and adds a magnetic tail cap and battery level indicator within the mode button. The clip is really tight and not the best fit but once its on it holds very tight. I will continue using it and relay any updates. Sorry for the lack of pics but im not sure how to load them if I can't upload from my phones gallery. Im a newby lol

A blizzard just moved in to my part of NM, and temps are dropping fast. Im going to take the three Armytek lights I received and leave them outside on my uncovered porch for the night and check them in the morning. I'll leave them all on their lowest setting. Temps should reach down around the lowest recommended operating temp of -25c.


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## Orangie (Jan 21, 2015)

Sounds great! Have been watching for those. Too bad about the pics eh.
Cheers.


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## CodyCash (Jan 21, 2015)

Orangie said:


> Sounds great! Have been watching for those. Too bad about the pics eh.
> Cheers.




Thanks! I have a new camera on its way so I'll be able to do pics later and on future posts.


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## Detox (Jan 21, 2015)

Pics! Where you get this from?


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## skater1on1 (Jan 22, 2015)

Anyone know how many OTF lumens this puts out?


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## newbie66 (Jan 22, 2015)

How is the switch? Is it stiff like Wizard?


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## GunnarGG (Jan 22, 2015)

Thanks for posting this.
I have been looking at this light and will probably get it or some other size of it.

In the specs Armytek says that the max 1050 lumens is OTF.
It also says that it has TIR optics - does your light have a reflector?

If you can get beamshots later on it would be great to see those.


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## Wiggle (Jan 22, 2015)

GunnarGG said:


> Thanks for posting this.
> In the specs Armytek says that the max 1050 lumens is OTF.



Interesting is Armytek finally going to start using OTF lumens?


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## ArmyTek (Jan 22, 2015)

Wiggle said:


> Interesting is Armytek finally going to start using OTF lumens?



You can find maximal light output (OTF) in the section "Specification":

http://www.armytek.com/products/flashlights/outdoor-and-camping/armytek-prime-c2-pro-xm-l2-warm.html


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## Wiggle (Jan 22, 2015)

That's great, glad to see it. The OTF number is much more useful and the people who are looking at buying lights in Armytek's price range will respond positively to having these numbers available. If I can make a recommendation it would be to either user the ANSI standard or at least clarify how the OTF number is determined (ie immediately after activation, or some period of time).

Are OTF lumens the new standard moving forward? Any hope of having the specs for other models updated to OTF lumens?

Thanks


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## GunnarGG (Jan 22, 2015)

I don't buy many lights because a already have what I need but this is one that I really want to try out.
Or the C1, or A2... 

@ Armytek, it is TIR, isn't it?
When can I buy one directly from Armytek?


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## GunnarGG (Jan 22, 2015)

For me the non pro model seems just right so I think I will go for that.

How do the rest of you think in that aspect?


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## KITROBASKIN (Jan 22, 2015)

The New Mexico snow event is over. Took an hour and forty minute walk tonight: about 15 degrees F. (virtually no wind), with the dog, who got a couple of hard snow balls between his pads but shook them off pretty quickly.

I live in the Albuquerque area, and could give a real time-actual use, with this torch. When I looked at the proposed light a while back, the curved grip did not seem so secure to hold, but this design looks good. It was also great to see a sublumen mode. I have ZebraLight SC62d, NiteCore P12, P60 hosts, Petzl MYO RXP, as well as throwers and small lights and have had the ZL H600 and SC52 pass through my hands. I figure it would take two to three weeks to get a decent understanding with it but the snow cover may not be the best way to evaluate certain traits.

It's up to you and ArmyTek but I can tell you it would be a fair assessment. I was hoping this light would come out. 


CandlePowerForums App


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## skater1on1 (Jan 23, 2015)

Wiggle said:


> That's great, glad to see it. The OTF number is much more useful and the people who are looking at buying lights in Armytek's price range will respond positively to having these numbers available. If I can make a recommendation it would be to either user the ANSI standard or at least clarify how the OTF number is determined (ie immediately after activation, or some period of time).
> 
> Are OTF lumens the new standard moving forward? Any hope of having the specs for other models updated to OTF lumens?
> 
> Thanks



I too am curious about this as well. I want to like ArmyTek, but it's very difficult when I can't accurately compare them with different manufacturers.


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## s013202 (Jan 23, 2015)

GunnarGG said:


> @ Armytek, it is TIR, isn't it?
> When can I buy one directly from Armytek?



Yes , it's TIR,and I just saw Prime C2 is in stock now!


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## ArmyTek (Jan 23, 2015)

s013202 said:


> Yes , it's TIR,and I just saw Prime C2 is in stock now!



You are right.


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## phantom23 (Jan 23, 2015)

TIR optics appear to be deep inside the bezel, does it affect spill?


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## Tachead (Jan 23, 2015)

skater1on1 said:


> I too am curious about this as well. I want to like ArmyTek, but it's very difficult when I can't accurately compare them with different manufacturers.



+2 we need ANSI standard numbers for all modes Armytek:thumbsup:

And, very few high end flashlight buyers like TIR/Collimators in my experience. You are shooting yourself in the foot putting them in new models imo. I immediately ruled the Prime series out due to the TIR and I would have bought one had it had a reflector. At least the Dobermann appears to have a reflector so, you may still get some of my money. That is if you ever list all the modes output levels so we can tell the mode spacing exc.


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## Tachead (Jan 23, 2015)

Holy crap, I just looked at the new Prime pictures, what is with all the writing on them? Armytek seems to be marketed towards hard use users(LEO, MIL, exc.) who generally prefer lack of bright colours on their kit. Putting the most amount of white writing I have ever seen on a flashlight as well as a yellow switch might not be the greatest idea no? Maybe this model is geared more towards normal city use? I sure hope you dont do this on your more tactical models as well. I for one dont want your website, the emitter type, slogans, and a bunch of gay flowers on my lights no matter what use they are for lol. Anything on the package is fine but, just the company name and maybe, if even, the model is enough on the light. Sorry to be harsh but, this just really seems silly to me.


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## chadvone (Jan 23, 2015)

Tachead said:


> Holy crap, I just looked at the new Prime pictures, what is with all the writing on them? Armytek seems to be marketed towards hard use users(LEO, MIL, exc.) who generally prefer lack of bright colours on their kit. Putting the most amount of white writing I have ever seen on a flashlight as well as a yellow switch might not be the greatest idea no? Maybe this model is geared more towards normal city use? I sure hope you dont do this on your more tactical models as well. I for one dont want your website, the emitter type, slogans, and a bunch of gay flowers on my lights no matter what use they are for lol. Anything on the package is fine but, just the company name and maybe, if even, the model is enough on the light. Sorry to be harsh but, this just really seems silly to me.




+1 on most if it. 

I would be alright with Prime C2 XM-L2 2.7-9v is small letters around the tail cap or on the head. I like having the voltage range on the light. It would of saved a few drivers in other lights.

I don't believe they are going for Duty Use on this one. Outdoor EDC maybe ?


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## lightmyfire13 (Jan 23, 2015)

Just pulled the trigger on the pro version....


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## chadvone (Jan 23, 2015)

Never mind wrong manual


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## hatman (Jan 24, 2015)

What exactly is the difference in modes between the regular and the more expensive "pro" version?

Which one is simpler -- I could do without all the flashing stuff?


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## Wiggle (Jan 24, 2015)

Anyone have some beamshots? I'm interested at some point in getting a compact 1x18650 high-output medium floody light. The SC62W was going to be my main pick but now I'm also considering the C2 Prime Warm Pro. It seems a bit longer (about an inch), is it pocketable?


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## fnsooner (Jan 24, 2015)

GunnarGG said:


> For me the non pro model seems just right so I think I will go for that.
> 
> How do the rest of you think in that aspect?



I bought the non pro when I bought the Wizard and I have no regrets.


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## tandem (Jan 24, 2015)

Tachead said:


> Holy crap, I just looked at the new Prime pictures, what is with all the writing on them? [...] Sorry to be harsh but, this just really seems silly to me.



+1 

I for one would not buy a light marked up as this one is, but I think the SureFire C2 (I own two) is overly busy too but that pales in comparison to the ArmyTek C2.


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## Alex1234 (Jan 24, 2015)

i have one and i love it !!! it has some nice throw with a nice size spot. its not very floody if thats what you want. it has some punch which i like. output is fantastic i love the feel and comfort when using it. i have many many pictures aswell. i also did a beam shot comparison VS my D25c2vn V3 Ti XPL 4.5amps. this light is brighter then that fully modded light so it means business in the output department. I have 2 issues though. first the button on mine is very hard to press. i have to use like 10 times the pressure to turn the light on. to hold it down i practically have to use my finger nail to push the button hard enough. i might have got a bad one who knows. my other issue is in the last picture where i have arrows pointing to the gap where it un threads you can see dirt and debris build up after on 3 days of pocket carry. it got all over the oring aswell. other then that its a fantastic preforming light.


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## kj2 (Jan 24, 2015)

Hope they solve the gap. Hate to get dust or other stuff, on a o-ring. 
Thinking about a C2 Pro warm. Really like that 4000K tint. Use my Wizard Pro warm more and more lately.


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## Wiggle (Jan 24, 2015)

tandem said:


> +1
> 
> I for one would not buy a light marked up as this one is, but I think the SureFire C2 (I own two) is overly busy too but that pales in comparison to the ArmyTek C2.



I can definitely see why someone would avoid a light, I agree the amount of writing is excessive. It wouldn't deter me but I would certainly prefer less. For me, one you have the company name, model and voltage range you're good. Maybe the emitter type too. The arc around the wording is a bit much.

Alex,
Thanks for the photos. Other than the issue with accumulation of gunk in the transition point, how do you find it feels in say a pair of jeans?

It looks like the same switch as on my Tiara, it's definitely stiff compared to others but never found it to be a problem.


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## Alex1234 (Jan 24, 2015)

i really like the idea of the clip included but not for this light. its a deep pocket carry clip and it sits perfect imo but when you go to use it the clip makes it very uncomfortable to hold. i tried rotating the clip nothing helped. all it was doing was marring up the finish. also you cant install or remove it without scratching up the finish. plus when it is installed it does not sit right. you also have to work it a bit to clip it onto jeans. much better with out it. feels ok in jeans pocket without clip but you notice it. if you can manage to clip it on to you pants pocket its like its not even there but the clip is annoying



Wiggle said:


> I can definitely see why someone would avoid a light, I agree the amount of writing is excessive. It wouldn't deter me but I would certainly prefer less. For me, one you have the company name, model and voltage range you're good. Maybe the emitter type too. The arc around the wording is a bit much.
> 
> Alex,
> Thanks for the photos. Other than the issue with accumulation of gunk in the transition point, how do you find it feels in say a pair of jeans?
> ...


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## newbie66 (Jan 25, 2015)

Alex1234 said:


> i have one and i love it !!! it has some nice throw with a nice size spot. its not very floody if thats what you want. it has some punch which i like. output is fantastic i love the feel and comfort when using it. i have many many pictures aswell. i also did a beam shot comparison VS my D25c2vn V3 Ti XPL 4.5amps. this light is brighter then that fully modded light so it means business in the output department. I have 2 issues though. first the button on mine is very hard to press. i have to use like 10 times the pressure to turn the light on. to hold it down i practically have to use my finger nail to push the button hard enough. i might have got a bad one who knows. my other issue is in the last picture where i have arrows pointing to the gap where it un threads you can see dirt and debris build up after on 3 days of pocket carry. it got all over the oring aswell. other then that its a fantastic preforming light.




But I thought you can only unscrew the tailcap?

And is it double o-rings or just one o-ring?


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## oeL (Jan 25, 2015)

CodyCash said:


> Turbo 1050LM 1.5hrs



Unfortunately, from the specs:

Stabilization... : FULL for all modes except Turbo (which is constant for 20 minutes)

I assume they directly switch down to high/420 lumens - and do not use a PID thermal regulation like Zebralight? Otherwise it would be a perfect single-18650 universal light. Like this... hm... :-(


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## chadvone (Jan 25, 2015)

I have a Armytek Prime A1. It has a slightly different driver so I do not know if this applies to the C2.

Messing with voltage program I put a 1.2 volt rechargeable in, and then programmed the light for 14500 Li-Ion.

The light would only come on firefly while I was holding down the button. Only thing that would get it to work on 1.2 volts again

was to put a Li-Ion in it and program it for 1.2 volts.

I am concerned if this light is Programmed for 2 RCR16340's or Primary CR123's. It might not work with 18650.

I know most people would have 18650 in light then go to primaries. 

Anyone that has both 18650's and Primaries or RCR willing to test this.

Chad


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## GunnarGG (Jan 25, 2015)

Thanks for the pics.

When I use my Zebralights I often switch between level 1 and 2 in resp mode by doubleclicking.
I guess I would be doing some clicking with this light also during use.

Is the stiff switch making the singel-, double- and trippel clicking difficult or is it more a "getting used to" issue?

The switch is a little bit exposed - do you see any risk for non intentional activation?


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## chazz (Jan 25, 2015)

Tachead said:


> Holy crap, I just looked at the new Prime pictures, what is with all the writing on them?



Yeah, I agree, Armytek could tone down the graphics on their lights. This one reminds me of a pace car for the Indy 500 or something..  

I thought my Predator had a lot of graphics...


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## chazz (Jan 25, 2015)

GunnarGG said:


> The switch is a little bit exposed - do you see any risk for non intentional activation?



I would guess you could lockout the tailcap?


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## GunnarGG (Jan 25, 2015)

chazz said:


> I would guess you could lockout the tailcap?



That should be possible and for me ok when I put it in a bag but for EDC/pocket carry it's very annoying if I need to do that.

The old Zebralights needed that and many complained, in the newer models it's not needed.

Maybe the stiffer switch prevents accidental activation good enough.


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## chazz (Jan 25, 2015)

GunnarGG said:


> That should be possible and for me ok when I put it in a bag but for EDC/pocket carry it's very annoying if I need to do that.
> Maybe the stiffer switch prevents accidental activation good enough.



Agreed, I would not want to worry about needing to lock it out when carrying it either.

Like you say, hopefully the switch will be stiff enough to minimize issues with that.


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## newbie66 (Jan 25, 2015)

chazz said:


> Agreed, I would not want to worry about needing to lock it out when carrying it either.
> 
> Like you say, hopefully the switch will be stiff enough to minimize issues with that.




It is probably too stiff.


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## s013202 (Jan 25, 2015)

Could you disassemble it to see what is the T.I.R made of ? Glass or PMMA ?
The gap between head and body seems similar to wizard or ever lager?
Switch is stiff than wizard? So many questions want to know,thanks.


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## CodyCash (Jan 25, 2015)

Sorry for the delay everyone! I came down with the flu, a bad one. The optics seem to have a shallow reflector and good flood on mine. It is definately an optic system and not the typical reflector. Also the button is actually stiffer than the Wizard Pro I have, almost to stiff and I find myself having to double push because my first attempt wasn't hard enough. Also I had to tweek the clip some because it was so stiff it pushed itself up against the tail cap. Works wonderfully now. Im very impressed with the optic clarity and out put. This is much smaller and a bit brighter than my Nitecore EC20, infact its not much larger than my Thrunite T10. The firefly modes are great and with so many modes its almost like an infinite output dial when your ramping up, always another level perfectly spaced throughout the scale. As Im sure everyone guessed the light performed perfectly all night in the blizzard. Im in Moriarty, NM and we got down to about 7F.


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## CodyCash (Jan 25, 2015)

Pocket carry is great, very minimal feel in pocket and you can do a tailcap lockout but the way they recessed the button into the body and its stiffness make it safe enough, plus it has a built in safety that will ramp through the modes and switch off if something sits against the button while in your pocket. If I've missed anything and you wanna know just ask!


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## LightWalker (Jan 25, 2015)

Looks like a nice light at a good price too. I would lock it out if it was loaded with two primaries.


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## ArmyTek (Jan 26, 2015)

s013202 said:


> Could you disassemble it to see what is the T.I.R made of ? Glass or PMMA ?
> The gap between head and body seems similar to wizard or ever lager?
> Switch is stiff than wizard? So many questions want to know,thanks.



TIR is made of PMMA.


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## s013202 (Jan 26, 2015)

ArmyTek said:


> TIR is made of PMMA.


So you mean a front lens made of glass & a T.I.R inside made of PMMA?


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## ArmyTek (Jan 26, 2015)

s013202 said:


> So you mean a front lens made of glass & a T.I.R inside made of PMMA?



Yes, you got it right.


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## s013202 (Jan 28, 2015)

Is it possible to make T.I.R by glass?
Because material like pmma will become atomized after a long term use, especially in high temp.
If possible,how much will cost elevate to make a glassed-T.I.R?


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## ArmyTek (Jan 28, 2015)

s013202 said:


> Is it possible to make T.I.R by glass?
> Because material like pmma will become atomized after a long term use, especially in high temp.
> If possible,how much will cost elevate to make a glassed-T.I.R?



Thank you for your interest. 

We use the material for TIR that does not deteriorate under different flashlights` temperatures. 
We use acrilic glass in TIR. Acrilic glass has special features, that makes the effect of total internal reflection possible, that simple glass can`t do.


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## Wiggle (Jan 30, 2015)

I don't suppose any of you guys could take a size comparison pic of the C2 and any of the following lights: ZL SC52 or SC62, Quark AA-T, Armytek Predator or Tiara.


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## Ernst from Germany (Feb 1, 2015)

When can I buy the Prime C2 in Germany?
I am very keen on the Lamp!
ERnst


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## kj2 (Feb 1, 2015)

Ernst from Germany said:


> When can I buy the Prime C2 in Germany?
> I am very keen on the Lamp!
> ERnst



Local dealer you can ask?


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## Ernst from Germany (Feb 1, 2015)

I will try to get Information tomorrow from Importhandel AG.Ernst


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## ArmyTek (Feb 2, 2015)

Ernst from Germany said:


> When can I buy the Prime C2 in Germany?
> I am very keen on the Lamp!
> ERnst



PM sent.
Sorry for the delay in replying.


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## Orangie (Feb 2, 2015)

Just ordered the C1 Warm,
Looking forward to it after the Predator, I am so far impressed with Armytek.
Cheers


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## ArmyTek (Feb 2, 2015)

Orangie said:


> Just ordered the C1 Warm,
> Looking forward to it after the Predator, I am so far impressed with Armytek.
> Cheers



Great to read that. 
Thank you!


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## McLux (Feb 2, 2015)

Are there any reviews of the prime lights yet? I really want to see some real world beamshots before I order my first light with TIR optics.


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## Wiggle (Feb 2, 2015)

How are you guys finding the mode spacing on the bottom end with the Pro or Standard? I'm trying to decide between the two.


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## Orangie (Feb 2, 2015)

Wiggle said:


> How are you guys finding the mode spacing on the bottom end with the Pro or Standard? I'm trying to decide between the two.


My C1 Warm standard should be here tomorrow, went with fed ex next day..lol 
It's like being a kid at Christmas, but paying Santa to show early.


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## Orangie (Feb 2, 2015)

ArmyTek said:


> Great to read that.
> Thank you!


Seriously nice product you have there. Also works great in the cold, have had it with me for the last two days and it's been fairly cold here..North of Toronto.
Cheers


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## ArmyTek (Feb 3, 2015)

McLux said:


> Are there any reviews of the prime lights yet? I really want to see some real world beamshots before I order my first light with TIR optics.



Some video reviews:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQKPwqPCuMY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3Yu6u7qt4A

Follow us on Facebook or Google+! You will find all updates there. 

Best Regards,
Armytek




Orangie said:


> Seriously nice product you have there. Also works great in the cold, have had it with me for the last two days and it's been fairly cold here..North of Toronto.
> Cheers



Thank you for kind words!


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## Orangie (Feb 3, 2015)

C1 warm just showed up, have had it out of the box for 1 hour but I had to check in.
First thing I noticed is the switch is not as hard as I had anticipated based on some other comments. It's not as easy as my Spark SF3 I would say a tad harder than the Olight S10. The Firefly mode is accessed the same as the S10. The beam tint reminds me of my Peak Logan keychain neutral. I haven't had a chance to really check it out yet, but so far, the modes seem nicely spaced. Both head and tail are removable to insert battery, though the instructions show only the tail.
More to come and pics hopefully.
Cheers


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## ArmyTek (Feb 4, 2015)

Orangie said:


> C1 warm just showed up, have had it out of the box for 1 hour but I had to check in.
> First thing I noticed is the switch is not as hard as I had anticipated based on some other comments. It's not as easy as my Spark SF3 I would say a tad harder than the Olight S10. The Firefly mode is accessed the same as the S10. The beam tint reminds me of my Peak Logan keychain neutral. I haven't had a chance to really check it out yet, but so far, the modes seem nicely spaced. Both head and tail are removable to insert battery, though the instructions show only the tail.
> More to come and pics hopefully.
> Cheers



Thank you for your order.  Hope you enjoy using the flashlight in your every day life!
It will be great if you will take some pictures of it and describe your thoughts. 

Best Regards,
Armytek


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## Tixx (Feb 4, 2015)

ArmyTek said:


> Some video reviews:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQKPwqPCuMY
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3Yu6u7qt4A
> ...



Last post on Facebook looks like 2 years ago.


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## Wiggle (Feb 4, 2015)

Can the magnetic tailcap extension on the Pro model be removed?


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## lightmyfire13 (Feb 5, 2015)

Yes.....


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## Wuyang (Feb 5, 2015)

Is the led way off centre in the pic?


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## bdogps (Feb 5, 2015)

I do want to but this torch, but I wish there was an English version of the review.


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## Wuyang (Feb 7, 2015)

I think I might get this, It really appeals to me....might be tempted with the neutral tint.


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## Tachead (Feb 8, 2015)

Wuyang said:


> I think I might get this, It really appeals to me....might be tempted with the neutral tint.



It's not available in neutral only warm(4000K) or cool.


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## kj2 (Feb 8, 2015)

Tachead said:


> It's not available in neutral only warm(4000K) or cool.


ArmyTek names it neutral white. See specs chart.


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## StudFreeman (Feb 8, 2015)

Cree refers to 3700k to 5000k as neutral white. A good 4000k like that in my Wizard Pro is really easy on the eyes...especially since the TIR optic makes the tint perfectly uniform.


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## Matrix 100 (Feb 9, 2015)

Just purchased a Prime C2 Pro at the Canadian Sportsman Show 
First Impressions - a quality light for the money


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## Ernst from Germany (Feb 11, 2015)

When the first Review of the Orime C2 with beamshots will take place?
Best Greets from Germany Ernst


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## ArmyTek (Feb 11, 2015)

Ernst from Germany said:


> When the first Review of the Orime C2 with beamshots will take place?
> Best Greets from Germany Ernst



We will start sending flashlights for reviews in spring.


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## Ernst from Germany (Feb 11, 2015)

Thank You!


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## Wiggle (Feb 11, 2015)

Matrix 100 said:


> Just purchased a Prime C2 Pro at the Canadian Sportsman Show
> First Impressions - a quality light for the money



Can you comment as to whether this light is a good fit in a jeans pocket? I am very interested in a C2 Prime Warm Pro but am unsure if I will need to favor the ZL SC62 to find a pocketable 18650 EDC.

Thanks


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## zs&tas (Feb 11, 2015)

Non pro is a smidge shorter....


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## GunnarGG (Feb 15, 2015)

So, I have got my Prime C2 for a couple of days now.
I really like the look and feel of it.
Very nice beam from the TIR lens.
Good cool white tint, similar to my Malkoff M61.

My Zebralight SC62d looks warmer (as expected).

I'm a big fan of the ZL UI but the Prime has a good UI also.

A question about the the battery indicator:

I have the non Pro version so no indication of voltage but it is supposed to blink 2 times once a minute when the battery is below 25%.

Right now my Eagletac 3400 mAh battery is down to 3,40 V and still no blinks.
I have a hard time to see any difference between max and main 3, maybe max a little bit brighter.
There is a more noticible difference when the voltage was higher.

Normally I would have charged the battery when it was down to 3.6 or 3.7 V if I didn't top it up before.

I do check my batteries with voltmeter but I dont want to take the cell out to measure it just to make sure I don't discharge it to much.
So it is important for me to get some kind of indication in good time that it is time to recharge.

Now I feel that the cell is getting way to low without warning.

Anybody else that has checked voltage and has noticed the batterywarning (or getting low without warning)?


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## Phaserburn (Feb 15, 2015)

Artifacts or rings from the TIR?


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## GunnarGG (Feb 15, 2015)

Ok, I let the light stay on.
Finally it started to indicate low battery by blinking 2 times.
At that time there was no difference between Main 2 and main 3.
The battery measured 3.21 V, after a little rest it went up to 3.3 V
I put the battery back and switched on again and after 5-10 minutes it stepped down to firefly.
The battery then measured 3.11 V and rised to 3.20 after rest.

So it seems to sort of work but the charge level left after you get the indication of low battery is no way 25%, maybe 2.5 %.
That's to bad because for me that is an important function and I would really want it to indicate earlier.

Some beamshots:

Same exposure setting.
Auto whitebalance so don't compare tint.



E2DL







SC62d





M61





Prime C2


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## Matrix 100 (Feb 15, 2015)

I am new to CPF, and by no means an expert on sizes of lights, but I would say the Armytek Prime C2 Pro is two big for a jean pocket


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## davidt1 (Feb 15, 2015)

Very useful beam comparison photos. at arm's length use, the bigger the hot spot the better. I wish they make an AAA light with the same TIR lens.


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## GunnarGG (Feb 15, 2015)

davidt1 said:


> Very useful beam comparison photos. at arm's length use, the bigger the hot spot the better. I wish they make an AAA light with the same TIR lens.



The light that looks most like the Prime C2 regarding beam profile is actually my little Fenix LD02.
They are pretty identical, just a tad larger hotspot on the LD02.
And of course not the same brightness, but those about 25-30 lumens the LD02 shines on medium is enough for most occasions.


----------



## davidt1 (Feb 16, 2015)

Thanks for the info on the LD02. The medium mode is what's missing on my DQG slim AAA. You don't have the DQG slim AAA, do you? I am wondering if the hot spot of the LD02 is larger than the hot spot of the slim AAA.


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## Wiggle (Feb 17, 2015)

Matrix 100 said:


> I am new to CPF, and by no means an expert on sizes of lights, but I would say the Armytek Prime C2 Pro is two big for a jean pocket



Thanks for your assessment. Sounds like it might be more suited as a jacket carry light.


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## GunnarGG (Feb 18, 2015)

davidt1 said:


> Thanks for the info on the LD02. The medium mode is what's missing on my DQG slim AAA. You don't have the DQG slim AAA, do you? I am wondering if the hot spot of the LD02 is larger than the hot spot of the slim AAA.



Sorry, don't have any DQC so I can't help you there.
Better chance for help if you ask in the LD02 thread and that will also keep us from getting to much OT here. 


Is there anybody who has tried out the battery indicator yet and can comment on that?


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## Tachead (Feb 18, 2015)

kj2 said:


> ArmyTek names it neutral white. See specs chart.



I don't care how they stretch their descriptions (although I see "warm" listed right on their own site) , 4000K is not neutral imo, it is warm. Most companies tend to source neutral emitters that are on the warm side or just plain warm. I personally think a true "neutral" emitter should be 4500-5000K.


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## kj2 (Feb 18, 2015)

Tachead said:


> I don't care how they stretch their descriptions (although I see "warm" listed right on their own site) , 4000K is not neutral imo, it is warm. Most companies tend to source neutral emitters that are on the warm side or just plain warm. I personally think a true "neutral" emitter should be 4500-5000K.



Cree specs sheet on the XM-L2 shows 3500-5000K is NW, 5000-8000K is listed as CW. Of course we all have a idea on what we personally consider NW or CW, but this is what Cree has listed on the specs sheet on the XM-L2.
I personally find 4000K also quite warm. Do like it though


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## Wiggle (Feb 18, 2015)

I'm a big 4000K fan as well. I have the Tiara A1 Pro in 4000K and also a vinh XP-E2 P60 thrower in 4000K. That range of CCT seems to really allow richer colours to pop and suits the outdoors very well but without going so low in temperature as to get much of a yellow or orange cast on things.

Edit: .... and soon to be a C2 Prime Pro in 4000K


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## scs (Feb 25, 2015)

hmmm... the TIR optic for the Prime series produces a 20/80 beam profile. That hotspot in the beamshots, while large, is also very diffused. Great for close to medium distance applications. Based on this I really hope Armytek will tighten up that spot for the Partner series.


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## coolriku (Feb 26, 2015)

I have received my Prime C2 Pro yesterday. I've had not much time to play around but, for the beam profile it's a wider center compared to my Fenix PD35 I own.
Besides that I really love the light, I've used it on my bike, and it didn't step down from max after 15/20 minutes. My PD35 steps down after 5 minutes, I'm happy that Armytek provides a temp sensor.

Also I like the option to have the power button blink every 5 seconds, even when it's off, so you can find the light in midnight.


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## Wiggle (Feb 26, 2015)

That beam profile looks great for close and medium range which is exactly my intended application. My Armytek Predator or L2T /w vinh 4000K XP-E2 are both awesome at medium and far distance but not ideal for night walking unless I use some kind of diffuser.

Haha of all lights I am trying to replace with this C2 it is a cheap old Trustfire TR-801 I modded /w a 5A tint XR-E Q5. That light was no terribly high quality but had an awesome smooth, medium floody pattern in an easy to pocket cylindrical shape. Not to mention the pleasant 5A tint.


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## McLux (Feb 26, 2015)

Armytek should make the TIR removable, so you can choose different beam profiles.
I would like to see a TIR with narrower beam profile for the Prime series.


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## Wiggle (Feb 26, 2015)

coolriku said:


> Also I like the option to have the power button blink every 5 seconds, even when it's off, so you can find the light in midnight.



That's a cool feature. How bright is it? Would it be a major distraction in a dark room?


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## coolriku (Feb 26, 2015)

Wiggle said:


> That's a cool feature. How bright is it? Would it be a major distraction in a dark room?


It's not that bright look at photo below. 

With light on






With light off:


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## Wiggle (Feb 26, 2015)

Thanks very much. I'll definitely be trying that feature out.


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## Str8stroke (Feb 26, 2015)

For the folks about to order one, don't forget, Armytek has a discount code for CPF members. CPF8. It should work and take off 8%. 

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...-CPF-members&p=4866634&viewfull=1#post4866634

Heck of a deal on a bank vault solid light.


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## Wiggle (Feb 27, 2015)

I ordered from hkeequipment. I found that they ship fairly quickly for being over in HK and, most importantly, I don't get hit by duties coming into Canada. I found unfortunately that I pay a bit of duty with Armytek's default DHL shipping.


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## coolriku (Feb 27, 2015)

*Pics!*

Here are some photo's I took







Close-up of the Cree XM-L2 Cool White LED



The Prime C2 Pro along a Eagletac D25A Ti (2014)
You can see that the Pocket clip snaps not that good on the body of the Prime, so it's slightly angled.








Here is a beamshot at aprox 2 meter (taken with my phone, the white balance might be not correct)
left: Fenix PD35 Right: Armytek Prime C2 Pro




After one day of use, I find the Prime a good and smaller competitor for my Fenix PD35, it's smaller in size, runs significant longer on the maximum brightness that my PD35.
The TIR optics are great but I wish they made the hotspot a bit narrower. But overall really great build quality, performance and looks .

I hope you find the pics useful for the people who want to buy this light.


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## Orangie (Feb 27, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*

^^Thanks coolriku


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## scs (Feb 27, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*



coolriku said:


> ...The TIR optics are great but I wish they made the hotspot a bit narrower...



Thanks, coolriku. I agree with you. Perhaps 10-15 degree hotspot and 50-60 degree spill instead of 20/80?

Any chance you could take some photos of outdoor beamshots of the PD35 and Prime?


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## coolriku (Feb 27, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*



scs said:


> Any chance you could take some photos of outdoor beamshots of the PD35 and Prime?


I think that would be a problem because I don't own a camera that is good enough to capture good night shots.
Maybe I will try it some time with my phone, but I can't say when.


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## Wiggle (Feb 28, 2015)

Thanks for those great pics


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## McLux (Mar 1, 2015)

Would this 15° TIR lens fit in the prime for a tighter beam? 
http://www.fasttech.com/reviews/1187501/832


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## zs&tas (Mar 16, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*

Great shots, ive got a prime c2 warm on the way.....


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## zs&tas (Mar 23, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*

Recieved my c2 warm. It is beautiful, well made gorgeous warm beam. Not as bright as my pd35 but a smoother beam with roughly the same size spill and hotspot. A* recomended !

Edit : just got back from a night ride, this light does let my eyes see every detail, nice greens and browns. Of course many warm lights may have this but the c2 is my first warm light. It is very small too.


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## nbp (Mar 31, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*

There doesn't appear to be a Prime C1 thread, so this is probably the best place. I just received a C1 Warm yesterday. I have to say, it's pretty nice, and so far I am impressed. I don't buy very many foreign made lights, so I am pretty picky about which ones survive to stay in my collection. But I like this light. Build is solid, I like the matte anodizing, the lens is deeply recessed, double o-ringed, nice beam pattern and neutral tint, the button is firm, which I like, and the UI is pretty intuitive. I am looking forward to running this one through the paces. So far it has survived my buddy's 11 month old son drooling on it and throwing it into the wood floor. Haha.


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## HotWire (Apr 3, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*

I've had my Prime C2 for about 2 weeks now. The battery compartment is a little smaller than my other 18650 lights. About 1/2 of my Panasonic and Nitecore batteries won't fit into the tube! Don't know what Armytek was thinking when they engineered the small battery cavity.... I love the warm light, the UI, and the feel in the hand, though....


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## zs&tas (Apr 4, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*

Have you tried a 18350 in your c1 ? Nbp.


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## nbp (Apr 4, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*



zs&tas said:


> Have you tried a 18350 in your c1 ? Nbp.



Yep, I have used both 16340 (lots of space) and 18350 (fits easily with a smidge of wiggle room for a thicker wrapper still).


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## Lumencrazy (Apr 4, 2015)

Yes, the deep bezel does affect the spill. It throws a 6-sided beam. Why they chose to do that I do not understand. You can see a bright reflection from the inside of the bezel standing up to 85 degrees to the side of the light. Very distracting when you tailstand the light and use it as a bounce light.


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## zs&tas (Apr 4, 2015)

*Re: Pics!*



nbp said:


> Yep, I have used both 16340 (lots of space) and 18350 (fits easily with a smidge of wiggle room for a thicker wrapper still).


Thanks, I'm thinking I'll get a c 1 to go with my c2 . C2 head on c1 body imr18350. Nice !


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## nbp (Apr 4, 2015)

That would be pretty sweet, you'd have big output in a pretty tiny package. The C1 is fairly small. The 18350 works great though.


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## chadvone (Apr 8, 2015)

how is the tint, I had A1 and it was too green. Looking at the C2 warm.


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## zs&tas (Apr 9, 2015)

Hi chadvone C2 warm is very warm compared to my other lights, and much warmer next to my neutral xpg2s. But that is just comparing side by side. When I use it on its own its very nice and easy on the eyes, its instantly become my fav most used light.


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## reppans (Apr 9, 2015)

Just wanted to throw in a quick tint comparison shot for those interested - outputs are between about 4 and 8 lumens by my lightbox.







L2R:
CW XML2 Quark
CW XPL 325 HDS
CW XML SC52
NW XML2 Neutron V2
NW N219A D25A
WW XML2 Prime Pro A1


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## chadvone (Apr 9, 2015)

thanks for the photos. My A1 had to much green. HDS and the Zebra look green.

Z&T Thanks for the reply, I might give a C2 a chance.


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## nbp (Apr 9, 2015)

My Prime C1 warm is warmer than my Nichia equipped neutral lights, but taken on it's own, I'd consider it neutral. I don't like really warm tints and I like this light.


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## Wiggle (Apr 17, 2015)

reppans,
Thanks for those beamshots. Sadly my C2 Prime Pro Warm was lost in the mail but a replacement is on the way. The tint looks very pleasant there. I really dig that ~4000K range. my GF and I were out walking the other night with my Predator Pro 2.5 CW which has a very nice near neutral tint (about 5500 K I would guess) and my vinh XP-E2 4000K P60. It is still snowy here and the Predator looks strong in the snow but I was a big fan of the 4000K XP-E2 in the woods. I had also gone out camping with my AT Tiara A1 Pro and that tint is excellent and stays pleasant across many modes.


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## nbp (Apr 19, 2015)

I just received today a Prime C2 cool white from the MP. It's not so big. With the clip, it definitely doable in jeans pocket. It's a lot smaller than my Dark Sucks Alpha was; that was too large for pocket carry. 

I definitely prefer my neutral C1, though I am fine using cool tints too. But of the two the warm/neutral is much nicer. I also noticed the switch is mushier on the C2 than the C1. This might just be my two samples, but I prefer the crisper shifts on the C1 with the stiffer button. The C2 I have to dig in more. 

These are nitpicks, they're both nice lights. I seldom buy and even less often keep lights from non-USA producers or Custom makers, but I think I'm keeping these for awhile. Personally, that says a lot. If I can find a home for these among HDSs, McGizmo, SF, Mac and other premium lights, I'd say they deserve a good look.


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## reppans (Apr 19, 2015)

I believe the warm to be a high CRI. I have no way of measuring it, but just based on the way it photographs with a smartphone when it's the only light source. I have N219s and an even warmer HCRI XPG, and all photograph about the same - it's like the tints just disappear for the camera, and seem very different from what my eye sees. 

On the down side, my A1 sample is quite inefficient, 3 other XML NW/CW lights (Neutron V2, S15, SC52) in the 6-8 lm range (by my lightbox) roughly doubled its runtime. My D25A N219A also faired poorly in this side-by-side.


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## mdocod (Apr 20, 2015)

nbp said:


> .... I seldom buy and even less often keep lights from non-USA producers or Custom makers, but I think I'm keeping these for awhile. Personally, that says a lot. If I can find a home for these among HDSs, McGizmo, SF, Mac and other premium lights, I'd say they deserve a good look.



That's an impressive statement right there. Definitely has me feeling more confidence in a recent decision to go all armytek for our backpacking illumination system this year. Looking forward to getting my hands on some of these lights. (I'm waiting on availability of the partner pro C2 V2 and Viking Pro V3 here in the states, to be paired with a couple of wizard pro V2's that should be on their way this next week).


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## nbp (Apr 20, 2015)

mdocod said:


> That's an impressive statement right there. Definitely has me feeling more confidence in a recent decision to go all armytek for our backpacking illumination system this year. Looking forward to getting my hands on some of these lights. (I'm waiting on availability of the partner pro C2 V2 and Viking Pro V3 here in the states, to be paired with a couple of wizard pro V2's that should be on their way this next week).



Admittedly, I cannot speak for long term reliability, as I have only recently gotten them, but I have to say I am impressed with the overall quality and build and I like the UI. For the price, I am quite pleased. I could get 7 Armyteks for the price of the HDS I am on the list for in the group buy section, so you can see what lights I generally skew toward and am comparing these to! I will need to drop them a few times and submerge them before I can give them full confidence, but I think they are pretty solid lights.


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## mdocod (Apr 21, 2015)

Don't worry nbp, I won't hold you to anything 

Using and owning a really rugged, over-built, quality flashlight like a SureFire Guardian series or HDS, is a thing of beauty, until we have to carry it, 10-20+ miles on the trail (I've done this). I suppose the closest thing to a practical light-weight prime/partner C2 series from a premium manufacture would be something like a SureFire EB2 (similar weight, size, and illumination umph), and the closest thing to a Viking V3 would be something like a SureFire P2ZX Fury, (again, very similar weight, size, and illumination umpf). In that standoff, I'd almost have to give favor to the Prime/Partner series for anticipated durability, on account of the bezel design. As for the P2ZX vs Viking, I'd estimate they are in the same ballpark in terms of durability. Though the devil may be in the details. Over the years, I've found that the failure mode is often from some unanticipated design oversight. I've had plenty of overly-hefty aluminum body LED flashlights whose switch assemblies bust or shatter when the flashlight is dropped... Hopefully there's no "hidden" compromises in design quality with these armytek's. 

Hoping for the best...


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## scs (Apr 21, 2015)

mdocod said:


> Don't worry nbp, I won't hold you to anything
> 
> Using and owning a really rugged, over-built, quality flashlight like a SureFire Guardian series or HDS, is a thing of beauty, until we have to carry it, 10-20+ miles on the trail (I've done this). I suppose the closest thing to a practical light-weight prime/partner C2 series from a premium manufacture would be something like a SureFire EB2 (similar weight, size, and illumination umph), and the closest thing to a Viking V3 would be something like a SureFire P2ZX Fury, (again, very similar weight, size, and illumination umpf). In that standoff, I'd almost have to give favor to the Prime/Partner series for anticipated durability, on account of the bezel design. As for the P2ZX vs Viking, I'd estimate they are in the same ballpark in terms of durability. Though the devil may be in the details. Over the years, I've found that the failure mode is often from some unanticipated design oversight. I've had plenty of overly-hefty aluminum body LED flashlights whose switch assemblies bust or shatter when the flashlight is dropped... Hopefully there's no "hidden" compromises in design quality with these armytek's.
> 
> Hoping for the best...



Would the electronic switch be the light's weakest link? Weakest in relative terms of course.


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## scs (Apr 21, 2015)

Specs for this light says its high mode is regulated for 20 minutes only, then it tapers off almost like in direct drive.

Can anyone confirm that all other levels have flat regulation?

Thanks.


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## reppans (Apr 22, 2015)

scs said:


> Would the electronic switch be the light's weakest link? Weakest in relative terms of course.



Electronic clicky and complex programmable driver... HDS's Achilles Heel as well (at least vs Malkoff, Surefire, Peak). In addition, it lacks dual springs so the battery will hammer the circuit board on drops. I did see someone mention the AT was "potted," but it sure doesn't look like the potting that Malkoff, Peak and HDS use (that might break the battery before the circuit board). JIMHO, of course. 




scs said:


> Specs for this light says its high mode is regulated for 20 minutes only, then it tapers off almost like in direct drive.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that all other levels have flat regulation?
> 
> Thanks.



I ran the A1 on 6 lms (by my lightbox) and its output was stone flat... But runtime was <75% of spec.


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## mdocod (Apr 22, 2015)

scs said:


> Would the electronic switch be the light's weakest link? Weakest in relative terms of course.



As long as the switch "face" must be depressed below the surface of the barrel of the light (not sure), then it would only be a weak spot in the event that a it is dropped in a manner that a sharp object strikes the switch. In other-words, I would not anticipate it to be a significant concern for durability. That said, yes, the weakest link on most flashlights is probably the lens and switch.


---------



scs said:


> Specs for this light says its high mode is regulated for 20 minutes only, then it tapers off almost like in direct drive.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that all other levels have flat regulation?
> 
> Thanks.



I'm under the impression that across most of the armytek 2xCR123/18650 size lineup, only the pro models provide both buck and boost regulation. The amount of regulated output you will get in higher modes on non-pro models will depend on a number of variables, like the choice of power source, temperature, and LED Vf.


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## scs (Apr 22, 2015)

mdocod said:


> I'm under the impression that across most of the armytek 2xCR123/18650 size lineup, only the pro models provide both buck and boost regulation. The amount of regulated output you will get in higher modes on non-pro models will depend on a number of variables, like the choice of power source, temperature, and LED Vf.



But Armytek states FULL* stabilization (except on max output) for the regular C2 Prime and Partner models. Based on Armytek's definition of "FULL" stabilization, I'm thinking even the regular versions have a boost driver. No?


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Apr 22, 2015)

scs said:


> But Armytek states FULL* stabilization (except on max output) for the regular C2 Prime and Partner models. Based on Armytek's definition of "FULL" stabilization, I'm thinking even the regular versions have a boost driver. No?



From what I've heard, one of the differences between the regular and pro versions of the Prime model, is that the pro version maintains a regulated output on max for longer than the regular version (with a reduced run time because of it).

Certainly for the Prime A1 and A2, it would need a boost driver. Probably not for the C2, but perhaps they use the same driver so include it anyway?


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## mdocod (Apr 22, 2015)

scs said:


> But Armytek states FULL* stabilization (except on max output) for the regular C2 Prime and Partner models. Based on Armytek's definition of "FULL" stabilization, I'm thinking even the regular versions have a boost driver. No?



I have no evidence to support that any of their non-pro 1X18650/2XCR123 lights have boost regulation. (edit.. I went ahead and contacted armytek to ask about this, as there's room for various interpretations in some of their lights... Maybe the "S-tek" driver used in C2 models is a new fangled low-dropout thing or something... waiting response). 

My advise is never to read a generalized "specification" or performance claim with the assumption that your preferred interpretation of it is apt to be true.


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## scs (Apr 23, 2015)

mdocod said:


> I have no evidence to support that any of their non-pro 1X18650/2XCR123 lights have boost regulation. (edit.. I went ahead and contacted armytek to ask about this, as there's room for various interpretations in some of their lights... Maybe the "S-tek" driver used in C2 models is a new fangled low-dropout thing or something... waiting response).
> 
> My advise is never to read a generalized "specification" or performance claim with the assumption that your preferred interpretation of it is apt to be true.



You're probably right. Thanks.


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## Wiggle (Apr 24, 2015)

I don't know if the Pro=full stabilization applies to the C2 models. I know for the Predator/Predator Pro it does but those were two totally different drivers. The Pro in the C2 just seems to offer a few bonuses.

Edit: Just did a track and my C2 Prime Pro Warm may be here today  If I get it I will be sure to grab some beamshots and pictures for you guys.


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## mdocod (Apr 24, 2015)

Hmmmm... thought that I already posted this once...

Maybe I failed to hit the "post" button or maybe it was lost. 

Either way, I very promptly heard back from Armytek on the inquiry about the regulation. The gist of the answer they gave me is that flashlights configured for 2 X CR123/ 1X 18650 with the specification; "FULL * (20 minutes in max mode)" , are not boost regulated, and as such, will have diminishing output in max mode once the battery voltage drops too low to maintain regulation. (rather than suffer "diminishing" output, the electronics will simply drop the light into high mode instead. The user then has the option to override back into max mode for unregulated output). I had originally assumed the pro model would be boost/buck regulated, but I see that isn't likely to be the case based on their response. I'm sort of bummed about this, as I was hoping to see essentially a wizard pro V2 type regulator available in a pro model prime/partner series handheld. This sort of brings me "back the the drawing board" on trying to figure out a compact, lightweight, handheld to use in conjunction with the wizard pro for intermittent spotting duty.


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## scs (Apr 24, 2015)

trevilux has a review in progress here: http://luxlinternas.blogspot.com.es/2015/03/armytek-prime-c2-warm-1x18655en.html

there is a runtime plot for max output.

without the boost driver, that means at some point the max output will not be accessible right? That is a bummer. ever feel like choosing a light involves a level of compromise? Well I' m definitely not considering the partner c2 anymore. I'd just end up looking for a better light.


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## mdocod (Apr 24, 2015)

If its any consolation I think the runtime plot on the new S-tek buck appears at least respectable. That run performed with a 3400mAH protected cell (not known for being a strong voltage performer) delivers most of its useful lumen/hours at 50% output or above... I suspect the same flashlight powered by LG ICR18650E1's would run in Max mode "flat" enough not to have the change in output easily noticed. Though I'm sort of already locked into NCR18650B's with the intent on maximizing watt-hours for lower-mode runtime in headlamps, so the lack of regulation in max mode in the C2 series is sort of a deal breaker for me. (not that it *should* be a deal breaker, but I'm overly picky and I want what I want, lol).


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## Wiggle (Apr 25, 2015)

I can live with the buck only. I use those NCR18650B right now, perhaps I should look at that LG cell for flatter performance though.


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## InspectHerGadget (Apr 25, 2015)

I ordered one of the C2 Prime Pro Warm and put my CPF code in to get the 8% discount. I got tempted. I don't really need it. I have a Lenser P5R.2 which is being used in my work and my wife carries it for our long night walks through the swamp. My Thrunite TN12 developed an annoying flicker so I'm waiting to get that back.

Armytek persuaded me by the drop test more than anything. Torches of this size are often easily destroyed by drops ie. TN12, PD35, P12 and it does take some design work to make it more resistant but it is worth it. I don't want a torch to break just because it drops a metre or two onto a hard surface. 

I'm not a fan of all the writing on it, they should remove the graffiti.

An illuminated side switch is a good idea though unless you are planning night assaults on enemy positions.


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## Wiggle (Apr 28, 2015)

Got my C2 Prime Pro Warm finally, first one got lost in the mail. Thanks to hkequipment for sending another free of charge 

Haven't played with it too much yet but first impressions:

Like
Size and form factor, the light feels very good in hand especially in an underhand position. It's also small enough that I can pocket carry, though it is about as large as I'm comfortable with.
UI, I think the Zebralight UI may be slightly faster in more scenarios but this one is good as well. Would depend on your usage scenario. If you use a medium mode alot this one is certainly quicker than Zebralight.
Battery indication, big fan of this feature but I've yet to fully test to how useful it is.
Tint. I got the warm model and I love the tint. It behaves at lower levels and at mid and upper levels it is very pleasant. 
Modes/Output. The output on Turbo is downright impressive for the size of the light. Could definitely wow some people with the output of this light. The modes are well distributed from a fraction of a lumen right up to nearly 1000 lumens. I haven't played with it enough to know my favorite modes yet but I am sure I'll have no trouble finding them.



Don't Like
Would rather that the clip is firmly attached rather than free spinning.
There is a bit of a ridge on the light between the body and head. Nothing major but I could see dust and dirt collecting.

Neutral
Beam pattern, I like the relative proportions of the beam pattern. Enough throw for normal use but more suited to close/medium range. Beam could be a little cleaner, the bezel produces a not quite round spill and there are some artifacts in the spot to spill transition. Nothing distracting at all but not totally perfect for people who care about that.

Armytek anodizing. I love the look and feel of the Armytek anodizing but it seems this one scratches a little easier than my Predator. I put a light scratch in it already putting the clip on. I think because of the very flat finish scratches are more visible when they do occur.

Overall quite happy though and will be working this into my EDC rotation for a bit to see how it does.


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## scs (Apr 28, 2015)

Wiggle said:


> ...
> 
> Armytek anodizing. I love the look and feel of the Armytek anodizing but it seems this one scratches a little easier than my Predator. I put a light scratch in it already putting the clip on. I think because of the very flat finish scratches are more visible when they do...



let's hope this is not indicative of the finish quality across their new models
their advertised finish hardness is a bit misleading then, don't you think?


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## Wiggle (Apr 28, 2015)

Its hard to say. Shoving a hardened metal clip over the light with a lot of force is a bit of a tough scenario. I'll know after some use though. I'll take a closer look at my Tiara tonight to see how its finish is holding up as it has seen some use.


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## nbp (Apr 28, 2015)

The matte finish "marks" but doesn't really "scratch", if you get my meaning. As wiggle said, flat finishes tend to show marks more easily than glossier finishes. However, I haven't seen any actual scratches through the anodizing on my C1 or C2, even where the clip was installed.


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## moshow9 (Apr 29, 2015)

Maybe someone can recreate my situation but I'm hoping someone can provide some insight in to what is happening.

I received my C2 this week (and C1), both pro warm models.

I placed a 3400 Keeppower 18650 and tested it out. Initially, it appears to function as it should. The button was not flashing while it was off so I attempted to activate it in the same manner as my Wizard (version 1 or 1.5).

With the light off I unscrewed the tailcap, held in the button, retightened the tailcap, unscrewed the tailcap, and released the button. When the tailcap was retightened the button began flashing green while off acting as a locator beacon. Success!

However, with this activated I experienced something strange. If I turn the C2 on to any of the lowest 3 outputs, it will turn off within a minute.

If I repeat the steps to turn the locator beacon off then the 3 lowest output modes will remain on.


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## Wiggle (Apr 29, 2015)

nbp said:


> The matte finish "marks" but doesn't really "scratch", if you get my meaning. As wiggle said, flat finishes tend to show marks more easily than glossier finishes. However, I haven't seen any actual scratches through the anodizing on my C1 or C2, even where the clip was installed.



That's a good point. Alot of what I see on Armytek lights is the material of something else "smudged" onto the HA and can be wiped off. The only marks that tend to stick around don't really have visible aluminum below them, just a medium shade of gray. I'm guessing that just some part of the finish get's marked but doesn't completely scratch through. At least in my case anyway.


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## Gaffle (Apr 29, 2015)

moshow9 said:


> Maybe someone can recreate my situation but I'm hoping someone can provide some insight in to what is happening.
> 
> I received my C2 this week (and C1), both pro warm models.
> 
> ...



Post this in the manufacturer thread. Armytek will get back with you.


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## Wiggle (Apr 29, 2015)

moshow9 said:


> Maybe someone can recreate my situation but I'm hoping someone can provide some insight in to what is happening.
> 
> I received my C2 this week (and C1), both pro warm models.
> 
> ...



Mine is exhibiting this too. If I turn on the locator beacon it will not stay on any of the moonlight modes. Oddly enough the main LED will flash in sync with the beacon.


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## scs (Apr 29, 2015)

With every new discovery of a problem or shortcoming (IMO) with these Armytek lights, albeit minor for some, my liking of and confidence in Armytek lights, and my urge to buy are quickly eroding.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Apr 29, 2015)

Yeah, that's looking like a bug in Armytek's firmware that controls their light. If so, this can't be fixed without redesigning the firmware and making new versions of the light. If I was the boss, I wouldn't be very happy with whomever wrote the firmware and whomever tested it.

I'm looking at buying a Prime A1, regular model. I take it that this bug only affects pro models? But yeah, this doesn't instill me with confidence.


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## scs (Apr 29, 2015)

Armytek just updated their online specs,

Pro or regular of C2 models in both Prime and Partner line now features "DIGITAL" regulation in FULL mode.

Ooooh. That sounds so much better than in max mode for 20 minutes only.

I'm changing my mind. I'm getting one.


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## moshow9 (Apr 29, 2015)

WalkIntoTheLight said:


> Yeah, that's looking like a bug in Armytek's firmware that controls their light. If so, this can't be fixed without redesigning the firmware and making new versions of the light. If I was the boss, I wouldn't be very happy with whomever wrote the firmware and whomever tested it.
> 
> I'm looking at buying a Prime A1, regular model. I take it that this bug only affects pro models? But yeah, this doesn't instill me with confidence.


I cannot speak for the A1 Pro, but this is not an issue with the C1 Pro as I don't believe the locator beacon is an option on this one.

However, something else that I've come across on the C1 and C2 Pro Models that I received:

C1
From off, press and hold the button as the light cycles through all of the modes and returns to the lowest output. At this point release the switch and press the switch to activate the light within a second. The light begins flashing brightly in a sort of fast beacon. Another press of the button with cease the constant flash, return the light to the lowest output momentarily, and then flash brightly again before turning off.

C2
If the process above is repeated with the C2, the light will turn off. If I press the switch again within a second the above flashing has occurred on a couple of occasions but is not the constant/norm. Instead, the majority of the time the light will simply remain off. After a few seconds of not trying to turn the light on the next button press will resume normal operation and the light will turn on.

I also attempted the above with my Wizard (cannot believe I had never cycled through the modes from off before) and what is observed with my C1 is also present here.

I do not know if that is intentional or not but I don't recall seeing it in the manuals. As an aside, it would make sense to me (preference as well) that if the above flashing is not intentional, that the modes would cycle over and over from lowest to highest output if the button is held in from off until released. Then again, was this a measure against accidental activation/battery drain if the button were to remain depressed if in the pocket or a pack? The switch seems stiff enough to engage accidentally, at least not in the two days I have carried them in my pockets. :shrug:


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## reppans (Apr 29, 2015)

^^ That's the battery programming sequence. 

Speaking of batteries, anyone find the battery meter of any use? I have a A1 Prime Pro and it only turns yellow/red when the light is unable to hold regulation and steps down/shuts off. IE, it always blinks green until the battery is dead dead - forget 50%, 25% warnings...


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## moshow9 (Apr 29, 2015)

reppans said:


> ^^ That's the battery programming sequence.
> 
> Speaking of batteries, anyone find the battery meter of any use? I have a A1 Prime Pro and it only turns yellow/red when the light is unable to hold regulation and steps down/shuts off. IE, it always blinks green until the battery is dead dead - forget 50%, 25% warnings...



Gotcha, thanks for the heads up. I missed that in the manual.


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## Wiggle (Apr 29, 2015)

Mine worked well, I did a quick runtime test on turbo and yellow after 50 mins and the light ran another 40 mins. I wasn't watching close enough to catch the red one though. This is for C2 Prime Pro.


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## Wiggle (Apr 29, 2015)

Really liking the hand feel of the C2. It is a smooth surface but has some grip with the finish and the ridging and details on body. The size is also ideal for being compact but big enough that its comfortable.


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## InspectHerGadget (Apr 30, 2015)

I was comparing the Prime and Partner. The Prime is shorter and tail stands with a magnet on the tail. The partner is weapon ready and has the battery with springs at both ends to absorb recoil.


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## reppans (Apr 30, 2015)

Wiggle said:


> Mine worked well, I did a quick runtime test on turbo and yellow after 50 mins and the light ran another 40 mins. I wasn't watching close enough to catch the red one though. This is for C2 Prime Pro.



Thanks... sounds like 1 working, and 2 not working (GunnarGG, post #80) battery meters so far.


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## Wiggle (Apr 30, 2015)

reppans said:


> Thanks... sounds like 1 working, and 2 not working (GunnarGG, post #80) battery meters so far.



You have A1 though right? Are you using AA or 14500? I will also test it tonight on a regular high mode. Turbo may be triggering some voltage drop and allowing the yellow to light up sooner than it would with other modes (in terms of percentage of capacity remaining). I am using the 3400 mAh NCR18650B which tends deliver alot of the energy at a lower voltage as well.


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## reppans (Apr 30, 2015)

Yes, A1. Tested with a dying Eneloop, mine will just show green until it needs to step down/shut off because it can't hold regulation for a given output (which is an after-the-fact "warning"). Also have run a AW protected 14500 down to 3.7V (~85% depleted per HKJ graphs) with all greens... for me, no point in testing any lower, because I don't run lower than that. 

This is on ATs recommend battery setting #1 for both cells, btw. Perhaps the unprotected Li-ion setting (#3) might give some advanced warning, but using that precludes using a ~1.5V cell in a pinch.


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## cerbie (Apr 30, 2015)

reppans said:


> ^^ That's the battery programming sequence.
> 
> Speaking of batteries, anyone find the battery meter of any use? I have a A1 Prime Pro and it only turns yellow/red when the light is unable to hold regulation and steps down/shuts off. IE, it always blinks green until the battery is dead dead - forget 50%, 25% warnings...


I got a C1 Prime Pro for my car (magnet!), and it seems to be spot on for primary CR123, warning well before it can't regulate, but not useful for any kind of rechargeable I had.


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## moshow9 (Apr 30, 2015)

Here is a video to show what is occurring with mine (also posted in ArmyTek forum):


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## InspectHerGadget (May 1, 2015)

A definite fault. Question is of course, whether a general design fault or just a faulty unit. I will get mine in a few weeks and test it. Thanks for the video.


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## reppans (May 1, 2015)

cerbie said:


> I got a C1 Prime Pro for my car (magnet!), and it seems to be spot on for primary CR123, warning well before it can't regulate, but not useful for any kind of rechargeable I had.



So that's 2x working meters (Wiggle/Cerbie), and 2x non-working meters (GunnarGG/Reppans)


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## Roxxolid (May 1, 2015)

I received my Prime Pro C2 Warm from Andrew-Amanda the other day. It got a little workout today inspecting an attic area and I was quite impressed. I wasn't sure if I would like the way it handled when I first received it because it does have a unique shape. Now that I've been using it, I think the single switch setup is actually a good idea for a basic EDC light. Without the tactical flash strobe it's just a perfect work light with the tail magnet to help you mount it on something. 

I used it on the high setting for quite a while and it did get hot around the bezel, but I think most of these new generation super torches do. 

I have a Fenix PD35 NW and it rides in my daypack for now, but I may be switching to the Prime C2 based on the better drop protection which the design of the recessed lens on the Prime C2 offers. As for the quality of workmanship goes on the Armytek,, I think it is on par with Fenix or Thrunite. 

Definitely worth the money!


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## cerbie (May 1, 2015)

Roxxolid said:


> I used it on the high setting for quite a while and it did get hot around the bezel, but I think most of these new generation super torches do.


That's a good thing. That means it's got a good thermal path to the body. An aluminum flashlight that does not heat up when pulling hundreds of milliamps is keeping the LED itself hotter, and is wasting perfectly good aluminum. Heck, even my G2s get warm fairly quickly, with M61s in them, and they are mostly plastic (the trick is to file down the bottom edge of the dropin a bit, file out the body tube's flare-out a bit, apply heatsink grease for lube, and then twist until it fits!).


> Definitely worth the money!


Mine's not making me regret buying Malkoff, or anything like that, but it is quite nice. Even HDS doesn't quite get tracking RCR123 capacity right, so I surely didn't expect that from ArmyTek. The Prime are not the most aesthetically pleasing, but the shape and switch are both ergonomic/handy, especially when using the magnet. Hopefully they'll get these few firmware or per-sample QC issues dealt with, for others, too.


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## GunnarGG (May 3, 2015)

I wrote about this problem in a few threads about the Prime C2 and finally got the response from ArmyTek tha my light was working as it should. :thinking:

The battery I first tested was an Eagletac 3400 mAh.
I then tested AW 18650 2900mAh and an AW 16670 (1600 mAh I think) and the result was about the same, only minutes of runtime left when the indicator started.
Actually with the 16670 only 45 seconds till it stepped down to moonlight.
Don't remember the voltage but far below what I'm comfortable with before recharging.

So, this is not a light I can keep using without thinking about how much charge is left and I will have to take the cell out to measure voltage once in a while.

Pretty annoying and not what I expected when the manual states the battery indicator will blink when below 25% charge.
To bad, it's a nice light otherwise.


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## mdocod (May 3, 2015)

GunnarGG,

I've read the claimed "25%" low battery indication system in product manuals for many of these armytek lights, and as I wait for my first amytek flashlights (wizards V2 Pro's) to arrive, this is actually one of the specifications for it that I have been hoping are wrong. 

I would dislike it if a flashlight or headlamp started blinking every minute through the entire bottom 25% of its discharge. That would effectively translate to 25% of its useful run-time being delivered with annoying flashes. In the case of firefly modes, that could be HOURS worth of illumination delivered with an annoying blink every minute. I'm actually sort of relieved to hear that the system in place, based on your feedback, is likely not beginning to indicate a low battery condition until the battery is indeed much further along. A few minutes of warning is, IMO, perfect, especially if that few minutes can then be extended by dropping to the next lower mode if needed. 

I can understand how, if you were using the light for daily work/duty purposes, you might prefer to have the indication system go off pretty early so that you could run the batteries on shallower cycles. From my perspective, with the primary application for my Armytek lights being back-country exploration, I intend to make use of every gram of battery I pack along. As I understand it, these lights have low-voltage cutoffs at ~2.8V, If the low-battery indicator system has me pulling NCR18650B's at ~3.0V (like 95-99% discharged), I'll be a happy camper, literally.


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## cerbie (May 3, 2015)

mdocod said:


> I can understand how, if you were using the light for daily work/duty purposes, you might prefer to have the indication system go off pretty early so that you could run the batteries on shallower cycles.


Trouble is, that will really require using the same battery over and over again, with calibration. Most LIon cells are going to vary enough between samples, and then change after cycling, and have different behavior if allowed to rest in between heavy discharges, that accurately keeping track of it would need a known capacity, and then the light tracking how much battery Wh it has used. Meanwhile, even varying in capacity and current handling, the discharge curves of primaries are all pretty much alike.


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## Wiggle (May 7, 2015)

Going camping this weekend and think I'm going to bring an Armytek Duo as my lights. The new C2 Prime Pro Warm and the A1 Tiara Pro Warm. The A1 has already proven itself to perform great and looking forward to trying the C2 Prime in some more real world situations. That 4000K tint is going to be great in the woods IMO.


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## Wiggle (May 10, 2015)

Tried out the C2 Prime Pro Warm camping this weekend. Mostly used my headlamp but got some use out of it for sure. The beam pattern is great for close and medium range, felt good in hand and love the tint.


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## coolriku (May 10, 2015)

moshow9 said:


> Here is a video to show what is occurring with mine (also posted in ArmyTek forum):




Mine doesn't have that problem. I did what you where doing there. My light works perfectly.


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## InspectHerGadget (May 11, 2015)

I got Prime C2 Pro and gave it a good run after some initial practice. 

The showstopper for me is the switch pressure. Excessive and too much for my wife and definitely more than I would like. I also wasn't fussed with the UI either with three clicks needed to find maximum.

I'm returning it and getting a ZL SC600.

Shame as the build is great and I like the magnet in the tail.


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## McLux (May 11, 2015)

I bought the non pro version after I read the manual of the pro version. Too much clicks for me. I have no problem with the switch stiffness.


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## InspectHerGadget (May 12, 2015)

McLux said:


> I bought the non pro version after I read the manual of the pro version. Too much clicks for me. I have no problem with the switch stiffness.


You are quite right about the Pro UI. The UI is overly complex and yes, three clicks required to go to maximum.

i also found that the warning lights for high temp are distracting. Why not just quietly control output to avoid dangerous temperatures? The spacing of levels also isn't great and can't be changed. It is also a bit weird having two groupings of output, firefly and main.


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## kayne751 (May 12, 2015)

Hey guys! This is my first post so I apologise in advance if I haven't done something correctly! Lol
I just got my AT c2 v2 last week and I'm a bit disappointed with it so far, it has minor dot sized bare metal areas( very minor but it's brand new and I received it like this), the clip has a huge gap from the body ( I've bent this back now) and it didn't hold onto a pocket/ belt etc. 
I have one question if anyone could pls help me- I bought the cool white version but it looks warm to me and I was wondering if u guys face something similar?
I do love the no sharp edges beam though and the small size compared to most 18650 lights!
Anyway I have been searching the forum for years but only signed up last week or so.


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## Wiggle (May 12, 2015)

InspectHerGadget said:


> You are quite right about the Pro UI. The UI is overly complex and yes, three clicks required to go to maximum.
> ...
> The spacing of levels also isn't great and can't be changed. It is also a bit weird having two groupings of output, firefly and main.



The benefit of the two groupings is that it lets you remember two separate modes. I have my two groups set at the middle of their respective options. So all that is required to switch between my two most common modes is a quick double click. One thing I like about this UI as well is that it can be much faster when your most used mode is a medium mode. One click to return to last used mode, this is the one area the Zebralight is a bit weaker, requiring two clicks with strong pre-flash or a longer press and hold.


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## InspectHerGadget (May 12, 2015)

Wiggle said:


> The benefit of the two groupings is that it lets you remember two separate modes. I have my two groups set at the middle of their respective options. So all that is required to switch between my two most common modes is a quick double click. One thing I like about this UI as well is that it can be much faster when your most used mode is a medium mode. One click to return to last used mode, this is the one area the Zebralight is a bit weaker, requiring two clicks with strong pre-flash or a longer press and hold.



The switch pressure was the show stopper. I had trouble with it, a bit anyway, my wife found it very difficult.

The UI you can adapt to, no doubt about it but I think they overcooked the complexity on this one. One click too many.


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## Wiggle (May 12, 2015)

That's valid for sure. I found the switch fine but on the tight side. I do like the insurance against accidental clicks but my GF also commented the switch was a bit too much.


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## mdocod (May 12, 2015)

kayne751 said:


> Hey guys! This is my first post so I apologise in advance if I haven't done something correctly! Lol
> I just got my AT c2 v2 last week and I'm a bit disappointed with it so far, it has minor dot sized bare metal areas( very minor but it's brand new and I received it like this), the clip has a huge gap from the body ( I've bent this back now) and it didn't hold onto a pocket/ belt etc.
> I have one question if anyone could pls help me- I bought the cool white version but it looks warm to me and I was wondering if u guys face something similar?
> I do love the no sharp edges beam though and the small size compared to most 18650 lights!
> Anyway I have been searching the forum for years but only signed up last week or so.



Almost sounds to me like the light you received was used or something. It shouldn't have surface defects, and in my experience, the clip should be properly sprung to clinch the body and hold fast to it. 

Armytek has a different approach to "tint" for LEDs than most other brands, which, is technically a good thing, but can appear like a bad thing to someone who is looking for a particular aesthetic in favor of functionality. 

Where most manufactures spec a ~6500K LED for "cool" white, and a ~5000K LED for "neutral" white, armytek specs ~5500K and ~4000K respectively. In fact, they call their "neutral" emitter "warm," and for good reason, as it appears very "warm" compared with the traditional neutral emitter range. The "cool" 5500K that armytek specs is very close to what other manufacturers would call neutral, so if you are comparing it to other lights, it will likely appear warmer. 

Cool emitters "look cool." Neutral and warm emitters tend to be superior for outdoor use. Armytek's emitter selection is geared more towards performance than aesthetics.


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## nbp (May 12, 2015)

I found the switch on my Prime C1 to be firm yet crisp and responsive while the switch on my Prime C2 is a bit mushy and requires a fair amount of force. I prefer the former. I'm also glad I have the standard model in both cases. It sounds like most folks with issues have the pro￼ model. I find the standard to have a simple user interface and I have had no glitchy issues. I have also done some swapping. I now have the lovely neutral/warm C1 head with the nice switch on the 18650 C2 body and the cool C2 head with the mushy switch on the C1 body running on 18350. I like this setup better.


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## kayne751 (May 12, 2015)

Thanks for that info about the tiny! I had a feeling that may have been the case. I really like the pattern of the c2 v2 regardless of tint. Switch is tight with way too much travel as several here mentioned but no biggie for me. It's just a real pity that the anodising and clip let the light down.


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## Wiggle (Jun 25, 2015)

Update here, been getting more use from my Tiara A1 Pro Warm and my C2 Prime Pro Warm. I can comfortably say I am quite happy with both of these lights. They operate well and have a sensible design. The C2 feels excellent in hand and the beam pattern is well suited to walking and general use.


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## chadvone (Sep 7, 2015)

Thanks for the Update. I'm interested in the C2 Prime Pro Warm. Can you or anyone give a comparison on throw against Zebralight SC62 ?? Or maybe any lights you have. I am wanting a little more than my Sc62 has.


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## run4jc (Sep 17, 2015)

chadvone said:


> Thanks for the Update. I'm interested in the C2 Prime Pro Warm. Can you or anyone give a comparison on throw against Zebralight SC62 ?? Or maybe any lights you have. I am wanting a little more than my Sc62 has.




I just received mine today - straight from China. Took 3 weeks to get here, but that's okay. I'll take my SC62w and the C2 Warm out tomorrow morning and try to grab an iPhone pic. I'll update this post.

I do like the light. It's just a bit longer than my SC62w and I like the matte finish. I prefer the recessed button of the Zebralight - it feels more substantial - but time will tell. And of course the Armytek is priced lower...


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## nbp (Sep 17, 2015)

I'm curious to hear your impressions Dan, I have been very pleased with my C2 and C1. I really like the UI, very useful!! I'd be interested in your thoughts on that especially.


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## chadvone (Sep 17, 2015)

run4jc said:


> I just received mine today - straight from China. Took 3 weeks to get here, but that's okay. I'll take my SC62w and the C2 Warm out tomorrow morning and try to grab an iPhone pic. I'll update this post.
> 
> I do like the light. It's just a bit longer than my SC62w and I like the matte finish. I prefer the recessed button of the Zebralight - it feels more substantial - but time will tell. And of course the Armytek is priced lower...



Did you get the XP-L version ?


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## run4jc (Sep 18, 2015)

nbp said:


> I'm curious to hear your impressions Dan, I have been very pleased with my C2 and C1. I really like the UI, very useful!! I'd be interested in your thoughts on that especially.





chadvone said:


> Did you get the XP-L version ?



Okay, new post. Early morning quick thoughts. 

No, I got the C2 XM-L2 Warm version...not the "Pro" and XM-L2, not XP-L.

These photos are HORRIBLE! But until my work schedule allows me to set up for some quality beam shots they'll have to do.





And these are MY OPINIONS!! YMMV!

Size - Zebralight wins. Although I like the feel and heft of the Armytek, it doesn't disappear in my pocket like the Zebralight

Button - Zebralight. Feels more substantial and like it will stand the test of time. Although the cutout for the button on the Armytek does recess the button, it seems easier to me to find the button on the Zebralight in the dark

Interface - toss up. Pros for the Zebralight are the customizable settings at each level. I also like that the 'long press' assures me that it will come on in uber low. However, I like the memory feature of the Armytek. Although it doesn't go as low as the Zebralight, it's still low enough for night time house navigation without disturbing my wife. I like the double click to max output, too. They are both about the same for cycling through levels....but I do like the predictability of the Armytek memory.

Beam - if you like warm, you'll love the Armytek. If you like neutral with a hint of warm, you'll like the Zebralight. 

Brightness - Toss up - Zebralight reads 671 in my sphere - Armytek reads 710

As I said, these photos are horrible! So critics, please be gentle - I'll update with some proper beam shots later. I have a couple of other lights that need beam shots so it's definitely time to set up and take some photos. Meanwhile:

Zebralight - tree is about 30 yards by crude measure of stepping it off:





Armytek:




I apologize for the poor focus. I locked the iPhone's exposure and focus to ensure apples to apples comparison. The photos will be updated tomorrow night!


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## chadvone (Sep 18, 2015)

Thanks for the photos and the input. Hard to tell which throws better. I took my A1 Prime out last night and it Held its own with My sc62w for throw. So I am gonna guess the C2 will best it.


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## run4jc (Nov 16, 2015)

Thought I'd take a minute to update my experiences with the C2. My first one died. Basically, it went into a strobe mode then just quit. Armytek's communications were great - the time to resolve the issue left much to be desired. Oh, well - at least they handled it. I had to send a description of the problem INCLUDING a video of the light exhibiting the behavior (funny - the "behavior" was the light not working) to Armytek - I suppose they forwarded it to their factory. I was then instructed to ship the light to the factory in China and upon receipt, they would ship a new light and refund my PayPal $15 for shipping costs. That was fair - it cost $12.95 plus my time going to the post office to ship it back.

One month (!!) later I received my replacement light. Still a C2 Warm Prime, but now with a "Premium Cree XP-L" emitter. it is a bit brighter in my sphere - the XM-L2 that died produced 710 lumen on high - this XP-L produces 800. Although the optic looks the same, the light does seem to have a bit more of a focused spot. Tint is warm/neutral, and I do like the tint.

It exhibits its own weird behavior from time to time. Sometimes when I switch it on in moonlight mode, it just switches itself off after 5 seconds or so. Doesn't always do it - and it doesn't matter the battery or state of charge. I stick primarily to AW 18650 cells in this light.

So mostly all is well. The Zebralight SC62w edges this Armytek EVER so SLIGHTLY in my opinion, but they are both great values for warm/neutral tinted 18650 pocket sized lights.

That is all.


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## zs&tas (Nov 16, 2015)

Hi, its a shame youve had issues , mine is as reliable as ever. Just a c2 warm though, not a pro.
Its been thrown about a bit and rattled along off road mtb. I love it !


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## SubLGT (Nov 16, 2015)

run4jc said:


> ………..Sometimes when I switch it on in moonlight mode, it just switches itself off after 5 seconds or so….
> 
> That is all.



I don't believe it! Please make a video.  

Did they send you a brand new, never used light, or one that someone else sent in for repair 6 months earlier?


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## run4jc (Nov 16, 2015)

zs&tas said:


> Hi, its a shame youve had issues , mine is as reliable as ever. Just a c2 warm though, not a pro.
> Its been thrown about a bit and rattled along off road mtb. I love it !



I actually like the light a lot. It pushed the Zebralight out of my pocket (until it failed!) because of the memory - I could turn it on in the dark of night and know that it'd be on moonlight mode. I'd always used moonlight mode last before going to sleep.



SubLGT said:


> I don't believe it! Please make a video.
> 
> Did they send you a brand new, never used light, or one that someone else sent in for repair 6 months earlier?



Sorry, friend. Probably won't be making any videos. I have no reason to fabricate such a story! It was a brand new light, and of course the XP-L is the latest version. I can live with the intermittent automatic shut down when on low. 

What was really disappointing and irritating was the time and effort required to get the replacement. But I still really like the light, and I have 2 other Armytek lights that never suffered any problems.


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## SubLGT (Nov 16, 2015)

run4jc said:


> ...What was really disappointing and irritating was the time and effort required to get the replacement...



I have to send in my Prime C1 for repair. Having to make a video is a hassle. Which is why I haven't done it yet.

I haven't heard of any other flashlight manufacturers requiring a video to get warranty repairs.


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## run4jc (Nov 17, 2015)

run4jc said:


> Sorry, friend. Probably won't be making any videos. I have no reason to fabricate such a story! It was a brand new light, and of course the XP-L is the latest version. I can live with the intermittent automatic shut down when on low.



Changed my mind - here's a video


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## yowzer (Nov 19, 2015)

I've been meaning to contact Armytek about warranty service for my Prime C1 - it turned on on its own and now won't turn off or change modes - but having to mess with videos and shipping to China? That sounds like more hassle than it's worth.


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## WalkIntoTheLight (Nov 19, 2015)

yowzer said:


> I've been meaning to contact Armytek about warranty service for my Prime C1 - it turned on on its own and now won't turn off or change modes - but having to mess with videos and shipping to China? That sounds like more hassle than it's worth.



Videos, I can understand. It's not much hassle, and it allows them to screen out "stupid user syndrome" for what is a hidden mode or normal operation.

Shipping back to China. Yeah, that's a hassle. But, for me, shipping to the US is equally a hassle. Even domestically is a hassle. So, I don't see China as much more of an issue. Perhaps a bit more expensive, and a longer wait, sure.

Luckily, I haven't had any issues with any of my good lights that I consider worth it to repair. Crappy lights and Mags, yes they have had problems, but it's not worth getting cheap lights repaired.


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## Roxxolid (Nov 19, 2015)

yowzer said:


> I've been meaning to contact Armytek about warranty service for my Prime C1 - it turned on on its own and now won't turn off or change modes - but having to mess with videos and shipping to China? That sounds like more hassle than it's worth.


That's why I would buy my lights from Amazon. They'll handle the return. Not sure if Andrew and Amanda would do the same but they were great to deal with when I bought a C2 for a friend. Worth checking with them.


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## coolriku (Nov 24, 2015)

I've recently bought a XPL-HI led for this light, but I have a problem. The optic center ring is to large for the ratter small XP led. instead of a XM led.
Where can i buy that, of are there templates online for a 3D printer , or any DIY solutions?

I screwed my XML led while dedoming it. Now I have a greenish led oo:.


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## Alfred143 (Jun 2, 2016)

run4jc said:


> It exhibits its own weird behavior from time to time. Sometimes when I switch it on in moonlight mode, it just switches itself off after 5 seconds or so. Doesn't always do it - and it doesn't matter the battery or state of charge. I stick primarily to AW 18650 cells in this light.
> 
> 
> That is all.



Mine started doing that too. On the two low modes then turns off by Itself after about 5 seconds.


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