# Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440



## ernsanada (Aug 23, 2007)

I just got the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 from Kaidomain, Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440

Shipping took 4 days. From ordering to receiving the light it took 15 days.

Fit and finish is good.

Type II Anodize has some scratches.

Twisting action is stiff due to o-ring.

Intermittent on while using a Energizer AAA 850mAh Rechargeable Battery. Using an AW Unprotected 10440 works OK.

The back of the SSC U Bin Module was very dirty. Used Deoxit to clean off junk. The threads were also very dirty.

Cost $19.99

The light came with a lanyard only.










































After cleaning with Deoxit.
















Left to right, Fenix LOD CE, Fenix LOD SE Q2, Right, Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440






Left to right, Fenix LOD CE, Fenix LOD SE Q2, Right, Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440






In these beam shots the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 and the Fenix LOD CE are using Energizer AAA 850mAh Rechargeable Battery

Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 @ 85"






Fenix LOD CE @ 85"






Left, Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440. Right, Fenix LOD CE @ 85"


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## swxb12 (Aug 23, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*

Great pictures as always, ernsanada. Is the Ultrafire a little floodier compared to the Fenix at further distances than 85"? They appear almost the same.


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## ernsanada (Aug 23, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*



swxb12 said:


> Great pictures as always, ernsanada. Is the Ultrafire a little floodier compared to the Fenix at further distances than 85"? They appear almost the same.



The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440has a little more flood.

The Fenix LOD CE has a slightly brighter hot spot.


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## moon lander (Aug 23, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*

thanks ernsanada, and great pics. are you still having an intermittence problem with rechargeables after cleaning with deoxit? looks like the overall output on a nimh AAA was on par with lod-ce, if so this will make a great gift light. did you notice if it will start up at a low voltage from a nimh cell? also would love to hear about the runtime if you get around to it. thanks again!


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## regulator (Aug 23, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*

Great pictures as usual! Since they look to be about the same overal brightness I wonder which one would run longer?

I always look forward to your reviews - keep up the great work and don't stop buying new lights!


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## ernsanada (Aug 23, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*



moon lander said:


> thanks ernsanada, and great pics. are you still having an intermittence problem with rechargeables after cleaning with deoxit? looks like the overall output on a nimh AAA was on par with lod-ce, if so this will make a great gift light. did you notice if it will start up at a low voltage from a nimh cell? also would love to hear about the runtime if you get around to it. thanks again!



I can't get the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 to run on a nimh. The light ran on the nimh when I did the beam shots. I got the light to work for a little after but the 14500 works OK.

That was the reason I cleaned the contacts with the Deoxit. I also had dirty threads and cleaned them. Still no good. 

I tried an Duracell Alkaline AAA it worked but it is also intermittent


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## LukeA (Aug 23, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*



ernsanada said:


> I can't get the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500 to run on a nimh. The light ran on the nimh when I did the beam shots. I got the light to work for a little after but the 14500 works OK.
> 
> That was the reason I cleaned the contacts with the Deoxit. I also had dirty threads and cleaned them. Still no good.
> 
> I tried an Duracell Alkaline AAA it worked but it is also intermittent



Don't you mean 10440? Because if I'm not mistaken, a 14500 is about the diameter of that entire light.


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## ernsanada (Aug 23, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*



LukeA said:


> Don't you mean 10440? Because if I'm not mistaken, a 14500 is about the diameter of that entire light.



Yes I mean the 10440 not the 14500. Posts corrected.


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## ernsanada (Aug 23, 2007)

The Fenix LOD CE beats the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 in throw with 10440's.

I put in a 10440 @ 3.8V in the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440.

The Fenix LOD CE also running a 10440 @ 3.7V.

Left, Fenix LOD CE. Right, Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 @ 85"


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## ernsanada (Aug 23, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> The Fenix LOD CE beats the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 in throw with 10440's.
> 
> I put in a 10440 @ 3.8V in the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440.
> 
> ...



The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 is still a whole lot brighter than the Jet I AAA Jet-u I returned.


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## PocketBeam (Aug 24, 2007)

Thanks for this review, it is very helpful. If they could get rid of the intermittent problem they might have something.


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## johnny13oi (Aug 25, 2007)

Could you do a comparison shot with the Ultrafire running a 10440 and the LODCE running a Ni-Mh on Max setting? Any idea on how many lumens the Ultrafire is putting out with the 10440?


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## FlashCrazy (Aug 25, 2007)

Great pictures and review, ernsanada! (As always!)

I've had several of these 602C's (Luxeon version), and had battery issues with every one of them. After a bit of head scratching, I discovered that the batteries were running out of downward travel, preventing the battery tube "shoulder" from properly contacting the pcb. Some batteries would work ok, some not at all. The fix is to take the battery tube spring out and trim about one-half coil off the bottom. (Note that I said one-half coil, not half of the spring. You're only trying to reduce the total spring height by about 1/32" at a time). Some need a little more, but don't take too much off or the spring will lose it's friction fit. If that does happen, just spread the bottom coil out a little and press the spring back in. This has fixed all of mine. I even had the same problem with the B3, which uses the same housing. Hope this helps!

Man, that emitter mounting job is scary! I hope they don't make all of them like that. Check out the third pic in this link (one I just sold)...that's how it should be done! Shame on Ultrafire...LOL. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172843


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## johnny13oi (Aug 26, 2007)

Is it noticeably brighter on 10440 or is it a little difference compared with Ni-Mh? Thanks, really considering the kit with the charger and 10440 as I plan on getting LiFePO4 14500 batteries for another flashlight and charge it with the charger but I will forget it if there is little difference. Thanks.


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## fatts (Aug 26, 2007)

*Re: Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/14500*



ernsanada said:


> I can't get the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 to run on a nimh. The light ran on the nimh when I did the beam shots. I got the light to work for a little after but the 14500 works OK.
> 
> That was the reason I cleaned the contacts with the Deoxit. I also had dirty threads and cleaned them. Still no good.
> 
> I tried an Duracell Alkaline AAA it worked but it is also intermittent



Sad to hear that yours has problems running on NiMH. I'm running mine on GP 1000mAh rechargables without a problem. Perhaps you should shoot DX an email...

EDIT: Added some photos.


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## LEDninja (Aug 28, 2007)

Can everybody with one of these post what batteries work, what batteries are iffy, and what batteries will not work.
I have a feeling Ultrafire built their AAA torches to exactly fit the old AAA size standard and the newer high capacity NiMH is just too big.

I got mine today.

The following batteries work
Ultrafire 10440 3.6V
RayOvac Hybrid
RayOvac 15 minute 850 mAH
Duracell coppertop alkaline
Dorcy Mastercell alkaline
Pure Energy rechargeable alkaline

The following batteries are iffy
Duracell 900 mAH does not normally work but I got the light to turn on by cranking the light really hard - I do not recommend this.

The following batteries do NOT work
Eneloop
Shoshone 900 mAH
Duracell 1000 mAH
Pure Energy XL digital
EDIT Energizer e2 lithium


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## LukeA (Aug 28, 2007)

LEDninja said:


> Can everybody with one of these post what batteries work, what batteries are iffy, and what batteries will not work.
> I have a feeling Ultrafire built their AAA torches to exactly fit the old AAA size standard and the newer high capacity NiMH is just too big.
> 
> I got mine today.
> ...



I'll add:

Work: Energizer Rechargeables

Iffy: LaCrosse AAA rechargeables.


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## FlashCrazy (Aug 28, 2007)

Check out post #13. I'm telling ya, the spring inside the body tube has too many coils. The batteries that don't work are bottoming out the spring, and they can't go down as far as they need to. This results in the positive tip of the battery contacting the pcb board too soon, preventing the shoulder of the battery tube (which is the negative contact point) from touching the negative ring on the pcb. 

Among the different brands of AAA batteries, each one is slightly different in length...it only takes a few thousandths of an inch to cause problems. The ones that are iffy in operation are just a tad too long...this explains why cranking down on the head a bit harder will usually work. If your brand happens to work, no problem. But if you want all the brands and types to work, the spring will need to be cut down just a little.


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## fatts (Aug 28, 2007)

LEDninja said:


> The following batteries work
> Ultrafire 10440 3.6V
> RayOvac Hybrid
> RayOvac 15 minute 850 mAH
> ...



Batteries which I have and work:
GP 1000mAH NiMH
Ikea Alkaline

Iffy:
Nil


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## ns66 (Aug 29, 2007)

i am also interested in this light, anyone got runtime of it? compared to l0d CE?

thanks


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## ernsanada (Aug 29, 2007)

FlashCrazy said:


> Great pictures and review, ernsanada! (As always!)
> 
> I've had several of these 602C's (Luxeon version), and had battery issues with every one of them. After a bit of head scratching, I discovered that the batteries were running out of downward travel, preventing the battery tube "shoulder" from properly contacting the pcb. Some batteries would work ok, some not at all. The fix is to take the battery tube spring out and trim about one-half coil off the bottom. (Note that I said one-half coil, not half of the spring. You're only trying to reduce the total spring height by about 1/32" at a time). Some need a little more, but don't take too much off or the spring will lose it's friction fit. If that does happen, just spread the bottom coil out a little and press the spring back in. This has fixed all of mine. I even had the same problem with the B3, which uses the same housing. Hope this helps!
> 
> Man, that emitter mounting job is scary! I hope they don't make all of them like that. Check out the third pic in this link (one I just sold)...that's how it should be done! Shame on Ultrafire...LOL. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172843




I took off about 1 coil, still no good with nimh.


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## ernsanada (Aug 29, 2007)

The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 head fits on the Fenix LOD CE body and my Fenix LOD Special Q2 body.

The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 head works with the 10440's but still no good with the nimh on the Fenix bodies.


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## johnny13oi (Aug 29, 2007)

I had this problem with a few other lights, you can try and push the battery down as far as it'll go and see if the positive contact is higher than the body around it. Because if it is, then the body can't make good contact with the PCB above it, but if the positive contact of the battery is far below the body of the flashlight around it at the top, then it could be something else.


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## LEDninja (Aug 30, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 head fits on the Fenix LOD CE body and my Fenix LOD Special Q2 body.
> 
> The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 head works with the 10440's but still no good with the nimh on the Fenix bodies.


Looks like you got a light engine with the low voltage startup problem. Thought Ultrafire fixed that. Guess not.


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## balazer (Aug 30, 2007)

LEDninja said:


> Looks like you got a light engine with the low voltage startup problem. Thought Ultrafire fixed that. Guess not.


I don't know why you'd conclude that. It could just as easily be a contact problem.


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## LEDninja (Aug 30, 2007)

balazer said:


> I don't know why you'd conclude that. It could just as easily be a contact problem.


From reading this.


ernsanada said:


> I can't get the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 to run on a nimh. The light ran on the nimh when I did the beam shots. I got the light to work for a little after but the *14500 works OK.
> 
> That was the reason I cleaned the contacts with the Deoxit. I also had dirty threads and cleaned them. Still no good.*
> 
> I tried an Duracell Alkaline AAA it worked but it is also intermittent


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## LEDninja (Aug 30, 2007)

balazer said:


> I don't know why you'd conclude that. It could just as easily be a contact problem.


From reading this. Works with 10440 but not with NiMH or alkaline even after cleaning or with L0D-CE bodies. Mine works fine with all batteries that fit. Half my batteries do not fit. See post 16.


ernsanada said:


> I can't get the Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 to run on a nimh. The light ran on the nimh when I did the beam shots. I got the light to work for a little after but the *14500 works OK.
> 
> That was the reason I cleaned the contacts with the Deoxit. I also had dirty threads and cleaned them. Still no good.*
> 
> I tried an Duracell Alkaline AAA it worked but it is also intermittent





ernsanada said:


> The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 head fits on the Fenix LOD CE body and my Fenix LOD Special Q2 body.
> 
> *The Ultrafire WF-602C SSC U Bin AAA/10440 head works with the 10440's but still no good with the nimh on the Fenix bodies.*


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## johnny13oi (Aug 30, 2007)

It could still be a contact problem because the 10440s could be shorter than the Alkalines and Ni-Mh therefore still causing a contact problem.


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## ernsanada (Aug 30, 2007)

The 10440 measures 43.98mm

The Energizer Rechargeable 850mAh measures 44.30mm


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## FlashCrazy (Aug 30, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I took off about 1 coil, still no good with nimh.


 
Hmm...then you need to take 1 1/2 coils off. 

Actually you can take two wires and a charged NiMH to test the head...then you can be sure if it's a contact issue or a low-voltage issue.


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## johnny13oi (Aug 31, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> The 10440 measures 43.98mm
> 
> The Energizer Rechargeable 850mAh measures 44.30mm



That hair of a difference could definitely cause the contact problem.


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## LEDninja (Aug 31, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> The 10440 measures 43.98mm
> 
> The Energizer Rechargeable 850mAh measures 44.30mm


The 10440s I got, the bottom of the battery does not reach the bottom of the wrapper giving extra space for the spring.


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## john2551 (Aug 31, 2007)

Ernie & all,

I'd like to buy & use this light as a keychain light. I was going to buy it to use with ni-mh AAAs but after reading this i guess i'll go with 10440s. Would using the 10440s make it brighter?


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## LEDninja (Aug 31, 2007)

john2551 said:


> Ernie & all,
> 
> I'd like to buy & use this light as a keychain light. I was going to buy it to use with ni-mh AAAs but after reading this i guess i'll go with 10440s. Would using the 10440s make it brighter?





kaidomain webpage said:


> Sanyo 1000mAh 1.2V AAA cell, runtime: approximately one hour
> DLG 10440 500mAh cell, runtime: approximately 45 minutes


Since the Chinese seem to use smaller mAH (10440s are normally rated at 300mAH), the batteries have about the same capacity. The 10440 is providing 1/3 more power, but it is not noticable to my eyes in actual use. I only have 1 lite so I can't do an A-B test. Not at all like an L0D CE which is 3X brighter on 10440.
Mine works fine on RayOvac Hybrids. I am using 10440 because in the words of Sir Edmond Hillary "it is there". I bought the 10440s to find out how bright my L0D CE can get but did not want to leave them there as the Fenix is pulling 1.2A from a  LITHIUM BATTERY  that has a design max of 0.6A. So I now use the batteries in the Ultrafire which I calculate to draw 0.4-0.5A max.
DX have both the light and light with 10440 Battery and Charger Kit listed.


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## FlashCrazy (Aug 31, 2007)

LEDninja said:


> So I now use the batteries in the Ultrafire which I calculate to draw 0.4-0.5A max.


 
Your calculation is right on...I measured mine awhile back with an Ultrafire 10440, it showed a 450 mA draw. This was the 602C Luxeon version that I converted to an SSC, but I assume they're using the same circuit. Using a NiMH cell, it showed 1000 mA.


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## Gene (Aug 31, 2007)

Ernsanada's photo's are always some of the best ever just like FlashCrazys' mods!  I'm the one who bought FlashCrazy's SSC P4 modded 602C. 

His tip on cutting down the negative spring must be the solution to the problems because this example will run on ANY AAA cell! I've tried it with Eneloops, 10440s, NiMHs, lithium and several brands of alkalines. It works like a champ on anything I can throw at it.

This really is one great little light! I have a Fenix LOD-CE, (which I like a lot!), but I prefer the beam of this over the LOD. The LOD has a slightly brighter hotspot like ernsanada stated but this has cleaner and better spill and is an almost perfect beam for everyday use.


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## LEDninja (Sep 3, 2007)

I took the pocket clip off my L0D-CE and put it on the Ultrafire. The clip fits much tighter on the Ultrafire.

I do not need the clip on the L0D-CE as it is attached to my keys. I think the 602C has a slighter bigger O.D. in the back which together with the checkerboard knurling gives a much more secure grip. The clip does not want to slide around anymore.


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## moon lander (Sep 3, 2007)

Gene and Ernsanada seem to have both fixed their 602c by cutting the spring down a bit. can anyone else confirm that this fix works for them?

also, is the spring hard to cut? is it recessed deeply into the body of the light?


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## balazer (Sep 3, 2007)

If it's the same as the old Luxeon WF-602c, the spring slides out of the battery tube easily using a pair of needle-nose pliers.


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## ernsanada (Sep 3, 2007)

moon lander said:


> Gene and Ernsanada seem to have both fixed their 602c by cutting the spring down a bit. can anyone else confirm that this fix works for them?
> 
> also, is the spring hard to cut? is it recessed deeply into the body of the light?




Cutting the spring did not work for me.


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## FlashCrazy (Sep 3, 2007)

ernsanada, did you try putting voltage directly to the contacts on the driver board?...(using a NiMH cell). I'm curious if yours has the low-voltage start up problems of the early version of the 602C.


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## ernsanada (Sep 3, 2007)

FlashCrazy said:


> ernsanada, did you try putting voltage directly to the contacts on the driver board?...(using a NiMH cell). I'm curious if yours has the low-voltage start up problems of the early version of the 602C.



How can I do this?


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## balazer (Sep 4, 2007)

Remove the battery tube. Stick a battery button-end first down into the head so that the button touches the positive contact. Bend a paperclip so that one end touches the negative contact in the head (where the end of the battery tube makes contact when turned on), and the other end touches the negative terminal of the battery.


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## Face (Sep 4, 2007)

Mine came today and so far - for the cost (hopefully!) - I'm pretty impressed with it. It's working fine on an eneloop and a 10440. NOWHERE near as bright on a 10440 as the LOD CE though.

The only downside is that I ordered 2 but my package came with only 1 in it!!! The customs declaration form states that there are 2 inside and even the packing slip inside says 2, but there was definately only one!

I've contacted Kai, so I hope that they make it right as one was for someone else and $37.98 is just a bit too much for this light!!! :-D

Cheers,

Face


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## john2551 (Sep 4, 2007)

As this light would be an "occasional use" light i will put a Energizer AAA lithium (primary) in it. Has any found out if the regular lithiums work without these modifications.


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## toyrolex (Sep 5, 2007)

Is the flashlight brigher with 10440 compared to standard/rechargable AAA? If so, by about how much? Thanks.

BTW, I just posted this question in the Dealer thread but realized I will probably get a quicker response from this thread.


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## Face (Sep 5, 2007)

I tried both an eneloop and a 10440 in mine and to be honest, I couldn't really see much difference - if any - between the two cells. I really REALLY wanted to, but I just couldn't.

The LOD-CE on a 10440 is still IT!


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## LEDninja (Sep 5, 2007)

Not in mine. YMMV. The only LSD battery that worked in mine is RayOvac Hybrid. Alkalines also worked in mine but I am wary of leaks.


john2551 said:


> As this light would be an "occasional use" light i will put a Energizer AAA lithium (primary) in it. Has any found out if the regular lithiums work without these modifications.



The flashlight using both Hybrids and 10440 is brighter than a L0D CE/hybrid medium. The L0D CE/hybrid on high is brighter.
The L0D CE/10440 is much brighter on medium. On high the L0D CE/10440 just blows the 602C SSC away.
The L0D CE is the latest I got (P4 WD?). The tint is warmer on the Fenix.
Against an older L0D CE (P3 WC?) the Ultrafire is almost as bright as the L0D CE/hybrid high and the tint is similar.


toyrolex said:


> Is the flashlight brigher with 10440 compared to standard/rechargable AAA? If so, by about how much? Thanks.
> 
> BTW, I just posted this question in the Dealer thread but realized I will probably get a quicker response from this thread.




Face, is your 602C stock or with modified spring? i cannot get Eneloops to work in mine.


Face said:


> I tried both an eneloop and a 10440 in mine and to be honest, I couldn't really see much difference - if any - between the two cells. I really REALLY wanted to, but I just couldn't.
> 
> The LOD-CE on a 10440 is still IT!


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## toyrolex (Sep 5, 2007)

Thanks LEDninja and Face for your info regarding brightness with AAA and 10440.


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## john2551 (Sep 7, 2007)

Anyone use 1.5v primary lithiums with any success??


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## kosPap (Sep 8, 2007)

john2551 said:


> Anyone use 1.5v primary lithiums with any success??


 
I did. eveything is fine

*BUT*

my experience with this light is disappointing…

I got it from KaiDomain and the first thing I noticed was that it bears no Ultrafire markings. Nothing. Zit

And when I fired it up there was a big dark center in the hotspot. Definetely a sign of an unfocused LED. One would assume that the emitter should be raised , but examining the matter more I have found that the reflector goes as far as possible resting on the emitter body. Than means that metal should be removed from the reflector bottom.

Now a question for you all. How thick is your reflector at it’s bottom? In mine there is a half mm or more before the cone starts.

BTW with this I am done with Ultrafire. A C3 I received from the Ultrafire-Shop had crossed threads in the head/body junction and 2 WF-502B and a C2 had small dings on the anodizing…

enjoy, Kostas


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## whc (Sep 10, 2007)

Just got mine today, and overall it is pretty good, had to cut some of the spring for it to fit eneloop and ni-mh cells, surprisingly the spring was gold plated pretty nice, and the threads came lubed, On the bad site the tint is just awful very blue. Overall I think it is well worth the money, will not be using it myself, will give it to my sister no advanced UI for her just on/off action.


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## cac313 (Sep 12, 2007)

Mine came in today (14 days after placing the order with DX) and I immediately checked to see what batteries worked. My wife had dropped a regular Duracell alkaline in there before I got home at it worked fine. I just got some eneloops (yay Costco!) and they work just fine. I don't have any 10440's but am strongly considering some for the L0D-CE.

Side note, to the Mk I eyeball it appears just as bright as my L0D-CE on high but the tint is a _little_ bit more blue and has a _tiny_ bit more more flood.

The only complaints I have so far is that there was some "schmutz" on the top of the emitter, like some one had brushed a little grease over it, it wiped off. The other thing is the twist is much firmer than the Fenix. It's not that bad but in comparison, you can tell the difference in quality. Also the fit when putting the battery in is much tighter, the Fenix is easily screwed down with just enough resistance but the Ultrafire needs a good bit of "oomph" when swapping batteries. For $18 though, it will be okay. 

Now I just have to hunt down a ring so my wife can attach it to her keyring.

Cheers


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## aussiebuddha (Oct 2, 2007)

Hi All.
Anyone knows which holster from kai or DX to buy for one of these?

Thanks.


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## RecycledElectron (Oct 11, 2007)

Just performed the spring fix on my 602C. It worked before on 10440's, not Nimh. Now it works on both. I had to cut 1.5 coils off the bottom for Nimh to work. Took a couple of trys. Good fix, thanks. 
R.E.


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## balazer (Oct 12, 2007)

I got my WF-602c w/ SSC, and I'm very pleased with it. Beam is very bright and white, and fairly uniform. The beam has a nice balance of spot and side-spill. The light worked out of the box with Rayovac Hybrid cells. Ultrafire has fixed the problems with switch action that I observed with this light from about one year ago. Heat transfer is good. The o-ring on the battery tube was properly sized. The o-ring underneath the bezel was missing. 

I'm only getting about half an hour of run time on the Hybrid cells, though. I think perhaps it's a problem with my charger. What run times are other people getting?


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## RecycledElectron (Oct 12, 2007)

That's about the expected runtime. I haven't checked the hybrid cells, don't have any, but individual Tenergy and Lacross 800 mah cells check out on my Maha MH-C9000 charger to have from 595 to 695 mah usable capacity. At a 1000 mah draw, a half hour is pretty good. It's about what I get on a freshly charged lacross, though it dims some after 20 minutes. I'd stuff a Duracell in it but it won't fit. Duracells fit in my B3, but the 602C's too tight.


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## balazer (Oct 26, 2007)

Overall I'm quite pleased with this light. It works out of the box exactly as it should, with none of the problems that earlier UltraFire WF-602c lights suffered from. (flawed switch action, low start-up voltage problem) The price is right, and I see little reason for the average person to buy anything more expensive such as the Fenix

I had no battery contact problem with Rayovac Hybrid cells.

My biggest complaint would be that the light's design is not particularly efficient. It manages to create a bright hot-spot primarily by driving the LED at high current, which ends up wasting a lot of light in the side-spill. I get less than half an hour of bright output from my light using a Rayovac Hybrid cell. A smarter design would use a Cree X-Lamp and an aspheric or hemispheric lens, so as to put more light in the spot and less in the side-spill without requiring a large reflector. That's how I modded a WF-602c last year. My mod's spot is just about as bright, but larger, and the battery lasts three times as long. (albeit using a lithium ion cell, which has slightly more capacity than the Hybrid, and doesn't require the use of a voltage boost circuit)

Other small complaints: o-ring was missing beneath bezel (there was an o-ring on the battery tube), no split ring or hole for a split ring for a key chain.


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