# Olight S1 Baton Review



## thburns (Sep 18, 2015)

_For submission to the flashlight reviews forum._

The S1 Baton is the newest entry to Olight's Baton series. I don't own an S10 Baton, but the S1 seems like it's meant to be the successor to that light as the smallest non-rechargeable 1xCR123/RCR123 light in the Baton lineup. In my review, I'll compare the S1 to the slightly larger and rechargeable S10R Baton so that you can get a good picture of the differences between the two.





Manufacturer specifications

*Features:*


Thumb sized form factor. diameter: 21mm length: 61mm
Stainless steel flashlight head and switch binder ring processed by PVD technology
Recessed silicon switch to prevent accidental operation
TIR lens to create a balanced beam
Positive polarity on the battery faces the tail of the flashlight for enhanced reliability and a more compact size
Built-in timer: 3 minutes or 9 minutes
Lanyard with perforating tool
Flat tail cap design contains a strong magnet providing the ability to place it upside down and use it as a hands-free work light
Removable pocket clip that is scratch resistant
Thermal management safety program with overheat protection by dropping high output by 50% within 1 minute of constant on. Turbo mode has a limit of 1.5 minutes.
The S1 features a wide range current circuit and can be powered by 1 x CR123A (built-in protected board)
Reverse polarity protection to prevent improper battery installation
*
Specifications:*


Cree XM-L2 LED. Maximum light output up to 500 lumens.
3 standard modes: 8 lumens, 80 lumens and 500 lumens.
2 special modes: 0.5 lumen moonlight mode and a 10Hz strobe mode.
6061-T6 aluminum alloy body with anti-scratch Type-III hard anodizing
PMMA TIR lens with a 90% light transmittance rate
Low standby current below 10uA
Body material: 6061-T6 aluminum alloy structure, Type III hard anodizing
Stainless steel pocket clip, stainless steel flashlight bezel, stainless steel binder ring
Dimensions: Length: 61mm, Diameter: 21mm
Weight : 30g (excluding batteries)
Color （body + clip）black，（BEZEL+ side switch binder ring）blue
Operating voltage: 2.5 to 4.2V
Luminous Intensity: 3000 cd
Max beam distance: 110 meters
Waterproof: IPX8
*
Operation:*


Single click --- Turn ON / Turn OFF
Click and hold --- High brightness, select timer, or activate moon light mode
Quick double click --- Turbo brightness, or enter setting
Quick triple click --- strobe mode
*
Included Items:*


1 × Flashlight
1 × lanyard
User manual

Unboxing

The S1 came in a transparent plastic retail package that seems to be the standard for the Baton series. The package had some summary specifications on the front, and a description of the light with a feature list on the back. Inside the package, the light was held to a cardboard insert that also enclosed the lanyard below, with the manual behind the insert.

There were what appeared to be two o-rings holding the light in place to the cardboard insert. Unfortunately, the o-rings were threaded through slits in the cardboard and I ended up cutting them to free the light. I only realized after the fact and upon closer inspection that they might have been spare o-rings for the light itself :shrug:

After inserting an Olight 650 mAh 16340 cell into the light, the S1 weighed 1.7 oz (48.19 g) on my postal scale.


















Build












































Like the other lights in the Baton series, most of the S1's battery tube has fine squared knurling, which is also present on the tailcap. The switch portion of the light has a hexagonal shape which does a good job of preventing the light from rolling when layed on its side. There are no protrusions on the tailcap, and the lanyard hole is embedded in the side of the tailcap so the S1 has no issue tailstanding even with the lanyard attached.

LED





Unlike the other lights in the Baton series, the S1 uses a TIR optic instead of a reflector. As you'll see in the beam shots below, the TIR gives the S1 a beam with a large spot compared to the S10R, which can certainly help when using the light where a wider beam angle is required.

Power

The S1 can be powered by either a CR123 primary cell or a 3.7 V 16340 Li-ion battery (RCR123). _TODO: Describe output/runtime differences between CR123 and RCR123._

Somewhat oddly and worth noting is that the cell powering the S1 must be inserted with the anode (negative) end of the battery toward the head of the light. I'm not quite sure what the reasoning is behind this, but it may have something to do with whatever reason there is for the light being anodized on the inside as well. The only conductive part of the body once the tailcap is taken off is a thin ring of unanodized material at the end of the tailcap :shrug:

I'm told by several others that the reasoning for this might be in preparation for a rechargeable version of the light, which has not been confirmed yet.

User interface

The S1 is operated with a side switch. It has moonlight, low, medium, and high output levels, and a 10 Hz strobe. It also has two timer functions that allow you to set the light to automatically turn off after either 3 minutes or 9 minutes. Let's take a look at how to use the side switch to access the various functions that the S1 has to offer.

Single-clicking the side switch of the S1 turns the light on to the last regular mode that was in use (including moonlight). Once the light is on, holding down the switch for about 1 second will begin to cycle through the other regular output levels (low, medium, and high), but will not cycle back to moonlight mode. Moonlight mode can be accessed by holding the switch for about 1 second while the light is off. High mode can be directly accessed from off by double clicking the switch.

Triple-clicking the switch while the light is on will activate the strobe mode, and holding the switch for about 1 second will return to the mode that the light was on before entering strobe. Single clicking the switch while in strobe mode will turn off the light.

The timer feature can be accessed by double clicking the switch while the light is on. When the timer is activated, the light will blink once for the 3 minute timer and twice for the 9 minute timer. Double clicking the switch again will cycle back and forth between the two timer lengths. I measured both timers with a stopwatch and both shut off the light after the correct amount of time.

While the S1 does not feature an electronic lockout ability like the S10R

Compared to the S10R, the user interface of the S1 is mostly the same, with the three notable exceptions being the lack of electronic lockout on the S1, the lack of the timer feature on the S10R, and double clicking to strobe on the S10R vs triple clicking on the S1.

Size














Grip

The rather fine knurling on the S1 gives it a pretty decent grip, and if the pocket clip is placed on the opposite side from the side switch provides a nice indent in the clip for your middle finger (at least for my hand size).





Carry

Being about the same size as a single 18650 Li-ion cell, the S1 practically disappears in your pocket until you're ready to use it. It fits perfectly in the fifth pocket, back pocket, and even inside the waistband. The pocket clip has a good amount of tension, and requires a little bit of a push to get it seated the last centimeter or so. The pocket clip is also detachable, and comes attached for bezel-up carry by default. It can be reversed for bezel-down carry, but in that configuration it will protrude slightly past the bezel.

From what I've seen in several other early reviews for the S1, the production version of the light might come with a small nylon holster for the light. My review sample did not include the holster.

The side switch on the S1 isn't as recessed as it is on the S10R, so this might pose an issue depending on how you carry the light.













Tailcap magnet

The tailcap of the S1 contains a little magnet that is fairly powerful for its size. On the various surfaces I tested it on, it attached the light firmly even sideways and upside-down. The magnet can be easily removed by squeezing the spring in the tailcap with a pair of needlenose pliers to pull it out. Due to the magnet wanting to move around, it's a little trickier getting it back in but not too difficult overall.





























Beamshots

All of the beamshots were taken with a Sony Alpha a6000 camera, with a Sony E 30mm F3.5 Macro lens and automatic white balance to minimize tint differences. These shots should be an indicator of the relative difference in tints between the S1 and S10R, not an accurate representation of the tint color.

High output with multiple exposures

These high output beamshots were taken about 1 m from a white door (I don't have a white wall in my apartment), with the camera at about 1.1 m.


























Low/medium/high output indoor at ~6 m

The wall next to the door in these indoor beamshots is about 6 meters from the light.











Low/medium/high output outdoor at ~9 m

The terrace wall in these outdoor beamshots is about 9 meters from the light.











Output measurements

As measured from the data 30 seconds into the runtime test below with an Olight 650 mAh 16340 battery, I've estimated the peak intensity of the S1 at 3410 cd, with a beam distance of 117 m. This is compared to 3030 cd and 110 m for the S10R. Both of these measurements are slightly higher than the manufacturer-reported specifications for the S1 :twothumbs:

Runtime graphs









Real-world use

As part of my review, I used the S1 as my exclusive EDC light for a week to see how it would fare with some real-world use. I thought that the non-recessed button might become an issue with accidental activation, but I didn't experience that at all during my testing, in which I carried the light IWB, in my fifth pocket, and clipped into my back pocket. Due to its small size, I actually thought that I lost the light a couple times. I did find that the tension on the clip was a little too tight for my liking, and I often had to spend a little bit of extra effort to get the edge of my pants all the way into the clip. My purely subjective opinion at the end of the week though was that the S1 would make an excellent EDC for those who prefer the smaller size of a 1xCR123 light.

Conclusion

Overall I think that the S1 is a fantastic little light in the 1xCR123/RCR123 category, and a nice addition to Olight's Baton series. Despite its dimunitive size, the S1 still packs a punch with a nice beam profile thanks to the TIR optic. The tailcap magnet also makes the S1 a great utility light.

My main complaints about the light are the unintuitive battery orientation and the lack of low voltage indication. The tight regulation of the light at 50% and immediate power-off after sixty minutes on high mode might end up being an unfortunate surprise during real-world use.

Listed below are my pros and cons for the S1. Some of these might not apply to you, and some might just be my personal nitpicks, but I've tried to list things that I feel most people would agree on.

Pros

Great beam profile from the TIR
Moonlight mode
Excellent regulation
Lots of output for a light smaller than a single 18650 cell
Removable magnet in the tailcap

Cons


Side switch might not be recessed enough to prevent accidental discharge
No low voltage indication
No electronic lockout
Unintuitive battery orientation
No GITD o-ring
No spare o-rings included
If those rings holding the light to the packaging insert were supposed to be the spare o-rings, more people will probably make the same mistake I did and snap them in order to get the light out

_The S1 was provided by GoingGear.com for review, on behalf of Olight._


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## Ryp (Sep 18, 2015)

Great in-depth review!


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## Dubois (Sep 18, 2015)

Thanks for the review, and the warning about the O rings. What a strange way of packaging a light, if they are meant to be the spares. Wouldn't they be stretched a little too much, holding the light in place?


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## WarRaven (Sep 18, 2015)

Great review THBurns!
+1

Looks like S10R is putting out more light on the run time graphs, is that correct?
Thanks.


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## akhyar (Sep 18, 2015)

Great review.
Have this light for a few days and I do agree with your finding.
Luckily I read some reviews before I received the light and found out that the 2 spare O rings are used to hold the light in the box.


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## UnderPar (Sep 19, 2015)

Thanks for sharing this review. I just love everything about this light. This is a winner for Olight. Thanks once again.


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## StillRunning (Sep 19, 2015)

Great review. This light is moving towards the top of the list for my next handheld.


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## Jiri (Sep 23, 2015)

Great review! Thanks for it! I bought this beaufiful tiny but powerful light few days ago. But I still wonder and I am a bit confused, if the highest mode (500 lumen) is really only for 1,5 minutes of runtime from fresh charged battery, and after that you have only 300 lumen and you can not get those 500 lumens again with the same battery, or are those 1,5 minutes is just runtime for heat-protection of the light, but after a while in off mode, you can get those 500 lumen again?


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## thburns (Sep 23, 2015)

Thanks for the kind words everyone, I'm glad my very first review was well-received! This has been a whirlwind over the last few months finding this new hobby **cough** obsession **cough** and really getting into it as much as I have. Looking forward to making more posts like this in the future.


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## Prepped (Sep 23, 2015)

Nice review, thanks for taking the time! I've been carrying my S1 since I received it, and haven't had a single pocket activation. It's very well designed.


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## WarRaven (Sep 23, 2015)

Jiri said:


> Great review! Thanks for it! I bought this beaufiful tiny but powerful light few days ago. But I still wonder and I am a bit confused, if the highest mode (500 lumen) is really only for 1,5 minutes of runtime from fresh charged battery, and after that you have only 300 lumen and you can not get those 500 lumens again with the same battery, or are those 1,5 minutes is just runtime for heat-protection of the light, but after a while in off mode, you can get those 500 lumen again?


It's hard for me to read dark writing on Tapatalk.
But to answer your question..... 
You should be able to get turbo after turning light off and restarting it, provided you don't overheat it by doing that repeatedly or in a hot environment to begin with.
It's stepping down to drop heat, not from voltage sag.

Hope that helps.


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## Jiri (Sep 24, 2015)

Thank you very much for your answer, WarRaven. I thought it should be like you say, but I wasn't sure. And I am sorry for the bad font.


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## WarRaven (Sep 24, 2015)

Jiri said:


> Thank you very much for your answer, WarRaven. I thought it should be like you say, but I wasn't sure. And I am sorry for the bad font.


Absolutely most welcome☺

No worries about the font color, I quote the post then it changes hue enough I can read print.
Just saying it's hard to read dark on dark.

Have a great one! ☺🔦


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## ponger (Sep 24, 2015)

I've been running the light for a couple weeks now using a primary and I may have discovered a low voltage indication of sorts. Seems as though when the battery runs low you're no longer able to increment brightness above the low level. After replacing the battery, all three brightness levels are available.


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## WarRaven (Sep 24, 2015)

I should probably clarify my earlier post a bit.
I meant that above, as long as a relatively new cell was being used in the light, turbo could be repeatedly re engaged.
Once cell is depleted by this or normal run levels it reaches a point where it can't deliver the amp/voltage for turbo.

If the cell has been repeatedly used on turbo to the point you can't get mid level, it's normal per state of charge left after usage as mentioned, that you will not be able to access turbo.

I hope that clears any confusion I've caused?


I'm silly and would use rechargeable,
and carry back up cells with this light, guilt free fun.


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## freeride21a (Sep 24, 2015)

Thanks for the review, just bought one, should have it by this afternoon!


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## Ladd (Sep 24, 2015)

Thanks for the comprehensive and very readable review!


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## nd22121 (Sep 25, 2015)

Sorry if this question was answered in the previous post about Turbo mode runtime but I am wondering if my light is working properly or if something else is going on. I just got it in the mail yesterday and I love it. This happened last night to me though, after running Turbo mode for a few minutes (not more than 5) the light shut off and wouldn't turn back on in any mode. I unscrewed the cap and screwed it back on and then Turbo mode came back on. But it went out again so I did the same thing. This kept happening until Turbo wouldn't stay on for more than 10 seconds and after it went out the light would not turn on in any mode. But as soon as I unscrewed and screwed the tail cap back on the light worked again. Does this just sound like a battery problem? I thought I put in a fresh RCR123 but maybe not. I did replace the batter this morning and the light seem to be good. I ran Turbo for a minute or two and it didn't shut off.
Any insight?
Thanks!


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## WarRaven (Sep 25, 2015)

Check for dirty thread connection between tail cap an body, maybe losing full connection.
I'm sure this light is like others in S series, need to have tail pretty tightly screwed on.


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## nd22121 (Sep 25, 2015)

WarRaven said:


> Check for dirty thread connection between tail cap an body, maybe losing full connection.
> I'm sure this light is like others in S series, need to have tail pretty tightly screwed on.



okay thank you. I will check on it.


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## Prepped (Sep 25, 2015)

+1 on tightening the tailcap. I had an issue with mine flickering. It REALLY needs to be tight.


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## CyBuzz (Oct 1, 2015)

Prepped said:


> +1 on tightening the tailcap. I had an issue with mine flickering. It REALLY needs to be tight.



Good info. when mine shows up i will give it a good twist.


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## verysimple (Oct 19, 2015)

great review of this light


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## swan (Oct 20, 2015)

nd22121 said:


> Sorry if this question was answered in the previous post about Turbo mode runtime but I am wondering if my light is working properly or if something else is going on. I just got it in the mail yesterday and I love it. This happened last night to me though, after running Turbo mode for a few minutes (not more than 5) the light shut off and wouldn't turn back on in any mode. I unscrewed the cap and screwed it back on and then Turbo mode came back on. But it went out again so I did the same thing. This kept happening until Turbo wouldn't stay on for more than 10 seconds and after it went out the light would not turn on in any mode. But as soon as I unscrewed and screwed the tail cap back on the light worked again. Does this just sound like a battery problem? I thought I put in a fresh RCR123 but maybe not. I did replace the batter this morning and the light seem to be good. I ran Turbo for a minute or two and it didn't shut off.
> Any insight?
> Thanks!


Assuming the cell is fully charged, it sounds like your cells are struggling with the load and are tripping the protection circuit, try a primary cell to verify before returning.
This light pulls about 1.5 amps in turbo and this is about 3c discharge rate which requires a decent cell such as Olights own branded rcr123 or better a AW rcr123 cell or better again, the AW/Efest imr unprotected 16340 which i get a full hour run time. 
Most quality RCR123 cells only really have around 500-550 mah, at 1.5 amp draw[or 3c] it will have have trouble getting turbo once they are at a lower state of charge, indicating its time to charge the cell.
I not sure what brand or state your cells are in, but high internal resistance or cheapo brands can play havoc with these high output cr123 lights, hope this helps a little.


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## KeepingItLight (Oct 20, 2015)

I wonder about current draw running on a CR123A primary. 

With his *Zebralight SC32w* flashlight in H1 mode (the highest mode), CPF member recDNA measured current draw from his CR123A battery at 2.2-2.4 amps. Presumably, the *Olight S1's * turbo mode would be in the same ballpark. Unfortunately, that is significantly higher than most CR123A batteries are rated for. The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps. 

For this reason, recDNA decided to stop using the H1 mode. The lower modes work fine, with current demands below the 1.5 amp threshold.

Has anyone measured the current drawn from a fresh CR123A battery in turbo mode on the Olight S1? I would love to hear what you are getting.


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## Prepped (Oct 26, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> I wonder about current draw running on a CR123A primary.
> 
> With his *Zebralight SC32w* flashlight in H1 mode (the highest mode), CPF member recDNA measured current draw from his CR123A battery at 2.2-2.4 amps. Presumably, the *Olight S1's * turbo mode would be in the same ballpark. Unfortunately, that is significantly higher than most CR123A batteries are rated for. The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps.
> 
> ...



If I can get access to a decent multimeter (the one I have only measures up to 0.2amps #sadface) I'll measure it for you and post here.

What are the possible repurcussions from drawing this much amperage?


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## bykfixer (Oct 26, 2015)

Great review!

The backwards battery thing _is_ indeed related to a rechargeable version....

I like how they look forward like that.

But....can putting in the battery backwards cause an issue?
Is it built (like some others) where there's no easy way to close it with a backwards cell?

If it's not reverse battery protected it's a no deal for this guy...

Glad to see all the recent Olight chatter.


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## Jiri (Oct 27, 2015)

nd22121 said:


> Sorry if this question was answered in the previous post about Turbo mode runtime but I am wondering if my light is working properly or if something else is going on. I just got it in the mail yesterday and I love it. This happened last night to me though, after running Turbo mode for a few minutes (not more than 5) the light shut off and wouldn't turn back on in any mode. I unscrewed the cap and screwed it back on and then Turbo mode came back on. But it went out again so I did the same thing. This kept happening until Turbo wouldn't stay on for more than 10 seconds and after it went out the light would not turn on in any mode. But as soon as I unscrewed and screwed the tail cap back on the light worked again. Does this just sound like a battery problem? I thought I put in a fresh RCR123 but maybe not. I did replace the batter this morning and the light seem to be good. I ran Turbo for a minute or two and it didn't shut off.
> Any insight?
> Thanks!



Actually something very similar one of my Olight S1 batons does this too... After few I think not more than 2 minutes the light switches off and won't turn back on... but after unscrewing and screwing the tail cap back on... it works normally again, but it has happened already like 4 times... Have you solved the problem yet??

(I am using AW 16340 battery)


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## scout24 (Oct 29, 2015)

Neat little light, just got mine. Quick question-is there a lens over your optic? I can reach right in and feel the "nub" in the center...


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## Prepped (Oct 29, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> I wonder about current draw running on a CR123A primary.
> 
> With his *Zebralight SC32w* flashlight in H1 mode (the highest mode), CPF member recDNA measured current draw from his CR123A battery at 2.2-2.4 amps. Presumably, the *Olight S1's * turbo mode would be in the same ballpark. Unfortunately, that is significantly higher than most CR123A batteries are rated for. The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps.
> 
> ...



I just measured it, and was getting upwards of 1.8 amps.


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## Frank108 (Nov 17, 2015)

scout24 said:


> Neat little light, just got mine. Quick question-is there a lens over your optic? I can reach right in and feel the "nub" in the center...


Funny, I just noticed that today. Initially alarming.


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## Frank108 (Nov 17, 2015)

ThBurns, the Olight S2 appears to be available as of 11-17-15; at least there's no "Pre-Order" message on Olightworld and GoingGear sites said that S2's were in stock earlier today. So if you're feeling flush (with cash) and are up to doing another thorough review....


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## msg1285 (Dec 4, 2015)

Frank108 said:


> Funny, I just noticed that today. Initially alarming.



It's just how the TIR lens is made. I don't think I have seen a light with a TIR lens and then extra lens over it.


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## glockster dude (Dec 11, 2015)

My S1 Baton came with only one O ring, but it also included an extra magnet glued to the inside of the box. It came off easily. I guess it's a replacement for the tailcap one.


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## newbie66 (Dec 12, 2015)

Pulled the trigger and got the rose gold. Mine came with two o-rings, diffuser and lanyard.

However, after using on max for some time the light shuts off. Could nit turn it back on. So, I placed the cell in the charger and it reads 3.77V. Is it supposed to do that?


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## Wet (Dec 12, 2015)

newbie66 said:


> However, after using on max for some time the light shuts off. Could nit turn it back on. So, I placed the cell in the charger and it reads 3.77V. Is it supposed to do that?


What cell do you use? If it's an old, worn out cell, it can shut down before reaching low voltages if used in a high drain device like S1 in max mode.


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## newbie66 (Dec 12, 2015)

Wet said:


> What cell do you use? If it's an old, worn out cell, it can shut down before reaching low voltages if used in a high drain device like S1 in max mode.



Using a Nitecore RCR123. About a year old, lightly used and never abused.


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## Wet (Dec 12, 2015)

My S1 doesn't shut down without dimming first and it will drain an unprotected cell below 2 volts. It must be the protection circuit of your cell that is making the light suddenly shut down. You can try with some unprotected cell to see if your S1 can drain it below 3 V.


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## Dimethyl (Dec 12, 2015)

If it is the protection circuit tripping, you can verify that with a multimeter. Once tripped, the cell should read zero volts. The protection circuit resets itself once placed in a charger.


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## newbie66 (Dec 12, 2015)

I suppose it could be my cell. Don't have a multimeter or another single cell light to test. But I do have the K2 LFP123A cell to test. Will check.


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## newbie66 (Dec 13, 2015)

I tried with my K2 LFP 123A(3.2V LiFePO4) on max and it did shut off after being drained but I was still able to turn back on at a much reduced brightness(less than 80 lumens). Moonlight works too unlike with the Nitecore. K2 cell reads 2.75V when placed in XTAR VP2 charger(set to 3.2V).

Don't know if this happens with Olight cells.


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## andrewnewman (Dec 13, 2015)

Figuring out how much runtime is left in a flashlight cell isn't always easy. The electronics typically favor consistent output with the longest possible runtime. *Some* lights attempt to formally characterize their low battery behavior (Zebralight, for instance) and *some* lights will pull every last amp from a cell with no user-visible behavior change until the cell is totally flat. Most lights fall somewhere in the middle in that as the battery reaches near depletion they will begin to dim or step down to a lower setting. Most single cell Olights in my experience behave this way. A lot of it has to do with battery chemistry, cell health and whether the battery is protected or not. I don't think the Olight has any detect logic to distinguish between a rechargeable 16340 and a CR123a primary.

I *think* you are seeing the following:

Your Nitecore protected cell is tripping the protection circuitry as the current under load (which is substantial on high with the S1) dips below 3V. Once tripped the cell has some "peace time" to recover and the unloaded voltage once the charger resets the protection board, the first reading will be well above 3V. Also, of note, if you are reading the voltage off of the charger's "smart" display make sure you are reading the cell voltage, not the charge voltage.
Your LFP cell (which has *much* lower capacity, btw, probably around 350mAH which can illuminate the S1 on high for about 15-18 minutes I would guess). It may have dropped below sensible voltage before it could accomodate a lower illumination level.
My experience with both the S10R and the S1 is that they will either trip the protection circuit (I get around 60 seconds low battery warning on the S10R) or step down if the battery isn't protected. My cells are generally well maintained IMR 16340s from AW (red label).

On either medium or high the battery lifespan won't be enormously good. You may just get used to keeping a handful of batteries (or one rechargeable and some primaries) with you to avoid being stranded. If you find that your behavior regularly runs a battery all the way down, the safest thing to do (other than changing your behavior :0) would be to continue to use protected RCR cells, expect them to trip a lot and replace them frequently (~once a year). Of course maybe your typical flashlight use would benefit from a small 18650-based battery.


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## newbie66 (Dec 13, 2015)

The S1 is my first Olight and also my first 16340 based light. I rarely run cells down until they are depleted or their protection trips, but I was caught off guard when the cell got depleted so quickly on max. Was having a bit too much fun with the light and I also guess that being used to Zebralights battery capacity indicator made me careless. 

Thanks a lot for the explanation. You are right about my behavior part. I need to be more careful and remember to charge the cell after using it for a bit. I guess this is why Olight recommends using protected cells.

Fortunately, I do have an 18650 based light, which is the Zebraight H600w MKII headlamp(using an Eagletac 3400mAh) which impresses me with its excellent runtimes. I detach it from the headband and edc it sometimes.


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## malocchio (Dec 13, 2015)

Wonder how the Efest protected 850 mAh would do in this light ?


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## andrewnewman (Dec 13, 2015)

malocchio said:


> Wonder how the Efest protected 850 mAh would do in this light ?



I'd be surprised if it fit. This cell seems to be a full length 16340 with protection circuit added. Make's it pretty long despite the manufacturer's claimed specifications.


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## jon_slider (Dec 14, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps.


Its not doing 1.5+ amps for long.
After 90 seconds on high, the S1 drops to 50% (for 1 hour).


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## Badbeams3 (Dec 14, 2015)

Does the light flash as a low battery warning?


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## newbie66 (Dec 17, 2015)

No it does not. I have the rose gold copper version.


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## recDNA (Dec 17, 2015)

So this light has no built in battery protection and measly 1.5 amp draw trips protection circuit of cells? I've run protected AW on 1.5 amps down to 3 volts in other lights (v11r)(tc-r2) and protection never kicked in. I don't see why it would. 1.5 amps should not pull 3.7 volts down below 2.5 needed to trip low voltage protection.


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## xyadam (Dec 19, 2015)

I also ordered the Olight S1 in rose gold version for my gf for christmas, she will love it 
I heared some feedback, that this flashlight eats the battery very fast, is that the case with you guys? I have very good runtimes with my Nitecore RCR123.

Since this is a review topic, I post my review here too, so you can see this light in action! It is mainly aimed for casuals, this time no measurements included.


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## newbie66 (Dec 21, 2015)

recDNA said:


> So this light has no built in battery protection and measly 1.5 amp draw trips protection circuit of cells? I've run protected AW on 1.5 amps down to 3 volts in other lights (v11r)(tc-r2) and protection never kicked in. I don't see why it would. 1.5 amps should not pull 3.7 volts down below 2.5 needed to trip low voltage protection.



I not sure, but could be a bug in the driver.


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## newbie66 (Dec 21, 2015)

xyadam said:


> I also ordered the Olight S1 in rose gold version for my gf for christmas, she will love it
> I heared some feedback, that this flashlight eats the battery very fast, is that the case with you guys? I have very good runtimes with my Nitecore RCR123.
> 
> Since this is a review topic, I post my review here too, so you can see this light in action! It is mainly aimed for casuals, this time no measurements included.




It eats real fast on turbo. Before you realize the cell is at 3.7+ volts. Not surprising considering the low capacity of rcr123s.


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## recDNA (Dec 21, 2015)

newbie66 said:


> It eats real fast on turbo. Before you realize the cell is at 3.7+ volts. Not surprising considering the low capacity of rcr123s.


Makes me wonder if it is pulling MORE than 1.5 amps?


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## recDNA (Dec 21, 2015)

No electronic lockout but how about partially unscrewing. Will that lock it out?

Are high and turbo the same thing? Both have been mentioned.


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## Dimethyl (Dec 21, 2015)

recDNA said:


> No electronic lockout but how about partially unscrewing. Will that lock it out?


The regular S1 (aluminum) has anodized threads, so, yes. Not sure about the other variants.



recDNA said:


> Are high and turbo the same thing? Both have been mentioned.


Same thing. If you want brighter, perhaps check out its bigger brother, the S2. It's 1x18650 and has a 950 lumen turbo mode (for 2 minutes).


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## recDNA (Dec 21, 2015)

I was going to buy the brass model due to the neutral led however it sounds as though it may be impossible to lock out. With a side switch that could easily but unintentionally be activated by bumping into something I would absolutely want to be able to lock it out for safety sake.


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## newbie66 (Dec 22, 2015)

I have the rose gold and no it does not lock out because the threads are not anodized. The copper threads like the rest of the body are pvd coated.


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## recDNA (Dec 22, 2015)

newbie66 said:


> I have the rose gold and no it does not lock out because the threads are not anodized. The copper threads like the rest of the body are pvd coated.


Thanks. Bad news for me.


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## jabe1 (Dec 22, 2015)

I haven't heard of any pocket activations yet. 
Personal experience it hasn't happened.


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## f22shift (Dec 26, 2015)

is there a way to take apart this light to swap the led?


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## gunga (Dec 26, 2015)

It's a press fit bezel. It's possible but not easy.


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## KeepingItLight (Dec 27, 2015)

jon_slider said:


> Its not doing 1.5+ amps for long.
> After 90 seconds on high, the S1 drops to 50% (for 1 hour).



Thanks, Jon. Do you know the details of the step-down? Olight's product description says, "Thermal management safety program with overheat protection by dropping high output by 50% within 1 minute of constant on. Turbo mode has a limit of 1.5 minutes." I recall reading elsewhere that beginning at 1 minute, output ramps downward, finally stopping at 50% at the 90 second mark.

This does not, however, dovetail with the description Olight gives for turbo mode in its ANSI FL 1 specifications. Those show turbo going from 500 lumens to 300 lumens after 90 seconds. By my calculation, that means the step-down is to 60%.

The runtime chart in the OP of this thread shows a bit of of a mix. It supports the 50% number. The step-downs it shows are a combination of not-so-small steps and some ramping. Another interpretation is the sample rate used in the chart measured output once every 15 seconds. The staircases could be an effect of the sampling rate! The following runtime chart does seem to show the reduction beginning at 1 minute and ending at 90 seconds. The blue line is for the S1.




thburns said:


> Output measurements
> 
> As measured from the data 30 seconds into the runtime test below with an Olight 650 mAh 16340 battery, I've estimated the peak intensity of the S1 at 3410 cd, with a beam distance of 117 m. This is compared to 3030 cd and 110 m for the S10R. Both of these measurements are slightly higher than the manufacturer-reported specifications for the S1 :twothumbs:
> 
> Runtime graphs



The legend of foregoing chart says "high" mode, but from the context it seems clear that turbo mode is what is meant.

If you can clarify precisely how the step down in the *Olight S1* is executed, and to what level, I would appreciate it.

As to current draw, CPF member prepped measured output in turbo at around 1.8 amps. He did not say what type of battery was used for his measurement. Based on context, and also on PMs I exchanged with him, I believe that was for CR123A. Since he does not say explicitly, however, it is possible that it was for 16340.



Prepped said:


> I just measured it, and was getting upwards of 1.8 amps.




This does not seem to be overly excessive. 

Keep in mind, however, that at least one datasheet I have, the one from Sanyo, defines _maximum pulse discharge_ current to be that current that causes voltage on a fresh CR123A to sag to 1.0 volts _in only 15 seconds._ Using that definition, Sanyo determined the maximum pulse discharge for its CR123A battery to be 3.0 amps. Other manufacturers publish values between 3.0 and 3.5 amps. It is clear, therefore, that a 2.5 or 3.0 amp draw _for 90 seconds_ cannot be classified as a pulse. That kind of draw must be classified as a continuous current. As such, it exceeds the spec for CR123A.

What about 1.8 amps? I do not want to say that is good for a CR123A cell, but it is close enough to the 1.5-amp spec, that it might not be too bad. I view these current specs somewhat like the red line on a tachometer. Your car engine is not going to explode just because you go a little bit over. On the other hand, repeatedly running your engine above the red line will have long-term consequences. Is the same true of CR123A? If you repeatedly use the 90-second turbo blast during a run of a CR123A battery, will that have a deleterious effect on the cell? Frankly, I do not know. I suspect, however, that it could.

Do any of you experts in the field know the answer to this?


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## rumack (Dec 29, 2015)

recDNA/newbie66 - A big THANK YOU! to you two. I completely forgot about checking on lockout. That was a huge thing to miss. I guess my lust for copper and brass got the better of me. I got my raw copper S1s after Christmas, but that was too late for me so I sent them back. I was thinking about getting a brass S1 to get the NW until I saw your comments about the lack of lockout. That kills it for me. I know several people have said they have not had any accidental activations but I would still be concerned about it.


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## LightMagic (Dec 31, 2015)

1) Whats the best battery for S1 baton? 
2) Why do people rave about AW RCR123?
3) Can AW RCR123 be used in S1 baton?
4) Where can i buy AW RCR123?

5) Finally why does AW RCR123 not have the 'A' at the end?
6) also read that AW has discontinued it?


7) Should i just get the Nitecore RCR123A? 2 for $10 on GB. Or 1 Olight RCR123A for $3.95 on battery junction?


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## Joe Talmadge (Dec 31, 2015)

LightMagic said:


> 1) Whats the best battery for S1 baton?
> 2) Why do people rave about AW RCR123?
> 3) Can AW RCR123 be used in S1 baton?
> 4) Where can i buy AW RCR123?
> ...



LightMagic:

You're asking super newbie questions -- that's good! Everyone was there once, and it's good you're not plunging in without learning a little first. Perhaps the most important thing for you to know is: ICR Li Ion batteries -- that's what we're talking about, when we're saying RCR123 -- are no joke, they are energy dense, and if not treated with respect, they have caused fires and turned flashlights into mini pipe bombs. It's not difficult to learn the proper care and handling, but do head over to the Batteries forum here and do some reading, both on the cells and on chargers. To answer some of your questions: 

*5) Finally why does AW RCR123 not have the 'A' at the end?* When people say CR123A, they are talking about primary (non-rechargeable) lithium batteries. When we say 16340 or RCR123 (no "A" at the end, although Nitecore has taken to putting an A, which I think is a mistake), we are talking about lithium ion secondary (rechargeable) batteries

*7) Should i just get the Nitecore RCR123A? 2 for $10 on GB. Or 1 Olight RCR123A for $3.95 on battery junction? * AWs were at one time only one of a very few handful of QUALITY li ion batteries, and there's years of good experiences with AWs to back that up. These days, there are many manufacturers of acceptable-quality li ions, and both the Nitecore and Olight seem to have good track records. Most of my 16340s are AW, but I recently bought some Nitecores

Make sure you get yourself a good charger, that has been tested by someone in the CPF batteries forum and uses the proper charging algorithm, including proper charge termination. And mind the safety rules, including: charge li ion batteries in the same room you're in, on a non-flammable surface, and disconnect the charger as soon as the light turns green (or whatever your charger's termination signal is)


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## LightMagic (Dec 31, 2015)

Joe Talmadge said:


> LightMagic:
> 
> You're asking super newbie questions -- that's good! Everyone was there once, and it's good you're not plunging in without learning a little first. Perhaps the most important thing for you to know is: ICR Li Ion batteries -- that's what we're talking about, when we're saying RCR123 -- are no joke, they are energy dense, and if not treated with respect, they have caused fires and turned flashlights into mini pipe bombs. It's not difficult to learn the proper care and handling, but do head over to the Batteries forum here and do some reading, both on the cells and on chargers. To answer some of your questions:
> 
> ...



Thank you!!!!

I have Nitecore D4 charger, just saw a youtube vid showing Nitecore RC123A being little fatter than Olight. http://youtu.be/_PyRaBy_a4M
At 1:10 


I think i will stick with Olight RC123A for now, same spec and like you said these days both are good.


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## royalpig180 (Feb 29, 2016)

Can those with this light recommend a rechargeable cell for it?

I would like to use a protected cell, such as an Olight RCR123, but I saw there was some speculation/observations earlier in this thread that this light's turbo mode exceeds the maximum safe discharge for any rechargeable that's not an IMR. However, IMR's are always unprotected, correct?
I'd love to hear what others are using in theirs and what you'd recommend for me, given that I would like to use a protected cell in mine.


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## tops2 (Feb 29, 2016)

royalpig180 said:


> Can those with this light recommend a rechargeable cell for it?
> 
> I would like to use a protected cell, such as an Olight RCR123, but I saw there was some speculation/observations earlier in this thread that this light's turbo mode exceeds the maximum safe discharge for any rechargeable that's not an IMR. However, IMR's are always unprotected, correct?
> I'd love to hear what others are using in theirs and what you'd recommend for me, given that I would like to use a protected cell in mine.



I use the Olight RCR123 and have no problems. Admittedly I rarely use turbo but have used it for extended time a few times. I don't have much data on runtimes either, but I don't have any problems.


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## wolfgaze (Feb 29, 2016)

royalpig180 said:


> Can those with this light recommend a rechargeable cell for it?



I'm using the Eagletac 750 mAh RCR123.... I ordered 3 of them directly from the U.S. Distributor.... As far as I could tell, many of the other RCR123's on the market are 650 mAh capacity....


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## vadimax (Mar 1, 2016)

I use mine with the original Olight's RCR123A 650 mAh and it lasts forever as I need mostly ML and Low modes. I possess it may be a month, charged it only once -- before inserting into the light.


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## Skaaphaas (Mar 1, 2016)

I use the Nitecore RCR123. Also 650 mah. 

Lasts longer than I expected, to be honest.


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## tops2 (Mar 1, 2016)

For some reason with this light, I find the low mode to be plenty bright for most of my usage. I like the medium mode too but it's too bright for my usage. It lasts a long time on low as vadimax mentions.


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## Destroid Monster (Mar 1, 2016)

Please note that there is a 'spare' magnet in the box. Its hotglued to the roof of the smaller compartment of the box that house the lanyard. The magnet help to keep the flashight upright during transportation.


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## ateupwithgolf (Mar 1, 2016)

I have the regular S1 and I liked it so much I also just received the titanium version. Man, this Ti version is sweet! Love the neutral beam, the titanium finish is gorgeous, and the copper bezel is a nice touch. Of course, it was nearly 3x what I gave for the regular S1 on group buy, but well worth it to me. I like this exact size for EDC, and I wanted something a little more upscale as far as fit and finish, and had to have a neutral tint now that I've got a SC63w and an Eagletac m30L3c Nichia. I won't go back to cool white!


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## tops2 (Mar 1, 2016)

ateupwithgolf said:


> I have the regular S1 and I liked it so much I also just received the titanium version. Man, this Ti version is sweet! Love the neutral beam, the titanium finish is gorgeous, and the copper bezel is a nice touch. Of course, it was nearly 3x what I gave for the regular S1 on group buy, but well worth it to me. I like this exact size for EDC, and I wanted something a little more upscale as far as fit and finish, and had to have a neutral tint now that I've got a SC63w and an Eagletac m30L3c Nichia. I won't go back to cool white!



*Must*ignore*comments*

lol. I love my S1 a lot too (especially for EDC), but always wished it was neutral white. Then I see the comments about the special edition having neutral white options and get sooo tempted!

Edit: Forgot to ask. How do you find the low level and moon light level compared with the cool white. I remember reading something about how neutral white levels may appear (much?) less bright than cool white level. But at higher levels, its pretty close.


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## ateupwithgolf (Mar 1, 2016)

tops2 said:


> *Must*ignore*comments*
> 
> lol. I love my S1 a lot too (especially for EDC), but always wished it was neutral white. Then I see the comments about the special edition having neutral white options and get sooo tempted!
> 
> Edit: Forgot to ask. How do you find the low level and moon light level compared with the cool white. I remember reading something about how neutral white levels may appear (much?) less bright than cool white level. But at higher levels, its pretty close.



I haven't compared the two on moonlight, but I will try to tonight.


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## Tachead (Mar 1, 2016)

I just cant warm up to this light myself. How do you guys get past the terrible clip, stiff switch, and lack of electronic lockout(lack of mechanical lockout on the special editions too)? For me, the clip is one of the most important features on a purpose designed EDC light like this and this clip is just so terrible. I wanted to like this light but, compared to the Zebralight SC32w and Eagletac D25C NW/Nichia 219 for instance this light just falls short in so many ways. Hopefully they will come out with a revised edition in the future with fixes for the many shortcomings I find this light has. I would like to see the following upgrades:

1. Neutral white option for base aluminum model(High CRI option would be great too)
2. Better clip design with no pocked snag(preferably screwed on in the preferred bezel down orientation)
3. Easier to push electronic switch that is more recessed to prevent accidental activation
4. Electronic lockout feature like other Olights
5. Voltage readout and/or low voltage warning
6. Memory mode for all modes including Turbo with no stupid 10 minute reset
7. Option for either TIR or reflector/glass lens


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## jdhermit (Mar 2, 2016)

Tachead- I'm with you, but we seem to be in the minority! I've relegated mine to a "clip it to my baseball cap" light for working around the house. 
Too short also, IMHO. 
While not 100% perfect! I've moved on to an SC5 for my main pocket light.


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## eraursls1984 (Mar 2, 2016)

Tachead said:


> 1. Neutral white option for base aluminum model(High CRI option would be great too)
> 2. Better clip design with no pocked snag(preferably screwed on in the preferred bezel down orientation)
> 3. Easier to push electronic switch that is more recessed to prevent accidental activation
> 4. Electronic lockout feature like other Olights
> ...


1. I agree, neutral and warm ALL THE LIGHTS! 
2. A screw on clip in the bezel down configuration would make me feel comfortable using the clip
3. I thought the S1 button was recessed past the button bezel ring(not the boot/cover)? 
4. This one is personal preference. I hate electronic lockout, and avoid most lights with it. 
5. Would be nice. 
6. I think their current UI with moonlight, turbo, and one memorized L-M-H from off is nearly perfect. It's in the top three UI's for EDC IMO right up there with Zebralight's UI and rotary. 
7. S1=TIR, S10=Reflector. 

With all that said it's hard to complain when the aluminum model can be had for $26.


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## tops2 (Mar 2, 2016)

This light I bought after a lot of research so I was aware of the negatives and was ok with when I bought it. I'm not being super picky about the negatives since I was ok with it.

1. Also wished there was an option for neutral white for aluminum.

2. The clip I can live with. I don't like the last bit right before you get it fully on..but it only affects certain pants of mine. I initially didn't like the clip with bezel up..but I've actually grown to like it on this light. Seems less chance for my keys to scratch the optics. Side benefit to me is sometimes I'll just turn it on in my pockets and have the light shoot out the top of my pockets if I just need a little light for a minute.

3. The button isn't as stiff as when I first got it. Does make me think about long term durability..but if it does eventually break..I guess I'll be forced to buy another light... ;-)
I do find it easier to press with my index finger than my thumb.

5. Would be nice to have at least the same voltage readout like my Zebralight.

6. I wish there was no memory and always comes on in low. Thought that's what they changed it to but mine has mode memory for the LMH levels.

The rest of the points I don't care about. The only 2 more picky things for me is the tint option and the last bit of the clip. But like I said, I accepted these 2 items before bought and the group buy price is great. That combined with the size, weight and (personally) good level spacing is why I love this light.


I did peek at the Zebralight SC32 after getting the Olight S1 and it looks pretty good too. But personally, I prefer the smaller diameter on the S1 for EDC. Personally, I'd just EDC my Zebralight SC5w if I'm fine with the larger diameter.


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## TA_ls1 (Mar 2, 2016)

eraursls1984 said:


> 1. I agree, neutral and warm ALL THE LIGHTS!
> 2. A screw on clip in the bezel down configuration would make me feel comfortable using the clip
> 3. I thought the S1 button was recessed past the button bezel ring(not the boot/cover)?
> 4. This one is personal preference. I hate electronic lockout, and avoid most lights with it.
> ...



Where can one find the aluminum one for $26?


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## Psode27 (Mar 3, 2016)

Just got mine today, partially because of your review! Thanks! I'm not a light guru (though I'm getting smarter), and this is a very simple and capable light great for EDC. Big lights are sweet, but a litte bright light (every)where you need it is far superior!

If I found another for 26$ i'd buy a second one. I'm all ears!


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## blub (Apr 11, 2016)

I got mine on Saturday, put a fresh AW RCR123 750mah battery in and played with it saturday night testing the turbo for not more than ten seconds at a time and a little more last night. Today at work I went to show someone how bright it was and it shut off after two seconds and wouldn't come back on until I took the battery out and put it back in and did it a few more times. Today I came home and put a fresh battery in, turned it on high, it stepped down and it lasted 33 minutes before it shut off and it wouldn't come back on until I took the battery out and put it back in. Is this all I can expect? It's not even close to the 1 hour run times I've been reading about.


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## tops2 (Apr 12, 2016)

I've only done runtime test on medium but I got about 244 minutes (4:04 hours) using my Olight RCR123 battery. It's close enough to the reviewers runtime with same battery. It's also close to the runtime using same Olight battery as listed on GoingGear's website. But I haven't tested on high mode. Also not sure what the runtime will be with your battery...


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## vadimax (Apr 12, 2016)

blub said:


> I got mine on Saturday, put a fresh AW RCR123 750mah battery in and played with it saturday night testing the turbo for not more than ten seconds at a time and a little more last night. Today at work I went to show someone how bright it was and it shut off after two seconds and wouldn't come back on until I took the battery out and put it back in and did it a few more times. Today I came home and put a fresh battery in, turned it on high, it stepped down and it lasted 33 minutes before it shut off and it wouldn't come back on until I took the battery out and put it back in. Is this all I can expect? It's not even close to the 1 hour run times I've been reading about.



Sorry for a stupid question: what do you mean "fresh"? I hope, it was charged to 4.2V 

Why am I asking such questions? My S1 Ti is in my possession from January. It has an original Olight 650 mAh battery inside. I have charged it *once*. Of course, I turn it on shortly -- to pass dark corridor, just to enjoy mode switching, but it is still running on max without a problem. Last time when I have checked the voltage it was 3.7V.

What am I doing wrong?


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## blub (Apr 12, 2016)

vadimax said:


> Sorry for a stupid question: what do you mean "fresh"? I hope, it was charged to 4.2V
> 
> Why am I asking such questions? My S1 Ti is in my possession from January. It has an original Olight 650 mAh battery inside. I have charged it *once*. Of course, I turn it on shortly -- to pass dark corridor, just to enjoy mode switching, but it is still running on max without a problem. Last time when I have checked the voltage it was 3.7V.
> 
> What am I doing wrong?





Brand new, fully charged, both of the batteries I used.


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## wensynch (Apr 12, 2016)

I feel like there's a lot of confusion as to the clip-on clips used by Olightz which I initially didn't prefer for the same reasons, it just felt unsecure. As I Olight collection grew, the 2 new elements to these new style clips started to catch on, at least for me. 

Like knives, these new clips are considered deep pocket, which is the little added loop on top so the clip and tool can sit lower and more hidden in pocket. The element that seems to bother people the most is the clip-on feature, where the light is attached by two prongs which clip around the light.. and will come right off if some caution isn't used. 

I came to understand that the clip really needs to considered 2 mounting points: 1. Properly holding the clip by the clip, with or without the light attached, to attach to pocket and deep enough where upper loop secures the clip. 2. The light can now be removed/attached to clip attached deep pocket style.

I no longer have Olights slipping away from me.


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## d3cadent (Apr 12, 2016)

blub said:


> Is this all I can expect? It's not even close to the 1 hour run times I've been reading about.



I believe the really long runtimes are only possible using CR123, non-rechargeable batteries.


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## blub (Apr 12, 2016)

d3cadent said:


> I believe the really long runtimes are only possible using CR123, non-rechargeable batteries.



Oh, I'll put one in and see if I can run it down all the way but you don't get the 500 lumens with the primary batteries.

*Edited: Okay, so I put an Energizer Lithium Photo in and it has been running for over 3 hrs 10 minutes, it is down pretty low now but at least it doesn't just shut off completely without warning, there is still usable light. I will use primaries when I need it to run for a long time or camping and RCRs for the wow factor or when I know I won't get stuck somewhere without light which is pretty much every day at work. Dang, I must have got that **battery for free or I wouldn't have used it, I would have remembered paying $8 for a battery! I found out when I googled it that Energizer Lithium Photo batteries are almost $8 each, I could get another RCR 123 for that.*


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## simonsi (Apr 13, 2016)

This is very good with no Cons.

It good in size that makes it easy to carry.
Powerful
Works well, awesome built quality.
Durable

About cons -
It is hard to find.


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## Mkduffer (Jun 14, 2016)

Not sure if OLight made a change to their programming, but unlike the OP, my S1 (which I've had for 3-4 months) does not remember moonlight mode. To me, it's not a problem, since moonlight is accessible from the off position with a long press.

Personally, I like the deep pocket clip in either orientation. I liked the lanyard and was using it with a quick release as a leash to prevent loss, however in the short time that I've owned the light, the string threaded through the tail cap has already frayed to the point of being unusable.

Since day one, I've used it with Xtar 16340 batteries. When I purchased the Xtar batteries, they were 2 for about $6 (free shipping) and rated at 650mAh. Xtar's current offering is 2 600mAh 16340's for $5.85 (still free shipping). I rarely use the turbo mode, but have from time to time and the light does get very warm in turbo. Have not experienced any of the issues with light shutting down. The low mode is more than sufficient for me to get my car in the wee hours of the morning and the mid mode is adequate for most other tasks that I perform. The main times that I use turbo/high mode is when something in the backyard goes bump in the night and I don't have a bigger light on hand.

I like the performance of the TIR, however mine does seem to pickup a lot of lint from my pockets. Also, no issues with the CW tint. I would prefer NW, but for me, not a deal breaker, since for my purposes, that level of critical color rendition isn't a big deal.

Mahalo


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## gunga (Jun 14, 2016)

Do you order the batteries direct from xtar?


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## steve007 (Jun 16, 2016)

I just ordered the S1 from Amazon, read all the cons and I do NOT feel they are deal breakers in any way. Could it be better? Yes indeed, but if you can live with the small shortcomings this little guy has to offer from an overall perspective then I do feel this little guy is a great addition to my family of lights.


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## DMS1970 (Jun 16, 2016)

I'm a huge fan. I'm really anticipating the S1A that is coming out soon. basically a cross between the S15 and the S1. Thinner but a little longer, but accepts AA primaries for backup. It may replace my S1s. 

On the pocket clip, I find it awkward, as the light is short and a little chubby. I find it easier to just drop it in a pocket and not use the clip. I keep the clip on to orient the switch.


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## tops2 (Jun 16, 2016)

Hopefully you'll love it as much as I do.

I really should just use the S1 exclusively for a week just to "live" with it. Its still my EDC, but after trying out high CRI lights recently, I've barely used any of my other lights after I get home.

If they could put a Nichia or some other high CRI LED into the S1 (or the upcoming S1A), I'll be done!


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## Federal LG (Jun 18, 2016)

thburns said:


> _ ...._
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Great review! Thanks for posting it. It´s a little off topic but, which model of Zebralight is this one, the second light left to right?


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## irongate (Jun 18, 2016)

How would you compare the S1 to the S20 as far as size and L ouput
or the Fenix PD 22ue ?
all running on 123's


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## eraursls1984 (Jun 18, 2016)

Federal LG said:


> Great review! Thanks for posting it. It´s a little off topic but, which model of Zebralight is this one, the second light left to right?


SC32w


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## CelticCross74 (Jun 19, 2016)

Ill have my first S1 on Tuesday. So the protection circuits trip easy on 16340's eh? That is not cool. Gonna have to pick up a couple IMR's then.


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## TheShadowGuy (Jun 19, 2016)

I've been running my S1 (original version- any mode can be memorized) with a Nitecore 650 mAh and have never tripped the protection circuit even after prolonged use on high. Maybe it's a combination of slightly touchier protection boards and slightly higher draw between samples causing it to trip only for some people, leading to the conflicting reports?

As a side note, the waterproofing has worked brilliantly for me like every other aspect of the light. My S1 may even have went for a swim at the beach once in silty, salty water....


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## RogueStatus (Jun 19, 2016)

Awesome review! I have a Copper S1 and love it! Its been my go-to lately for projects around the house or in the garage.


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## neksium (Jun 19, 2016)

I want to buy this light but two weeks now it is out of stock on gearbest and banggood.

They expecting new version from this light?


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## CelticCross74 (Jun 19, 2016)

yeah isnt there an "S1A" coming or something? Its a AA version? Battery Junction is selling it right now. Ill stick with the thumb sized S1 the AA version to long.


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## neksium (Jun 19, 2016)

No, this takes cr123 http://www.banggood.com/Olight-S1-BATON-CREE-XM-L2-500LM-Mini-EDC-LED-Flashlight-p-993121.html

I have a coupon for banggood, so i must buy from there.


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## TheShadowGuy (Jun 19, 2016)

Weird, they should restock eventually. The S1A is a similar light using AA, but isn't replacing the S1 AFAIK.


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## tops2 (Jun 20, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> Ill have my first S1 on Tuesday. So the protection circuits trip easy on 16340's eh? That is not cool. Gonna have to pick up a couple IMR's then.



I use the Olight 16340/rcr123 with my S1 and the only time my protection has tripped is when I did a runtime test on Medium mode. Otherwise with my general use, I haven't tripped it yet.


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## CelticCross74 (Jun 20, 2016)

got my first S1 in the mail today and man am I impressed! I knew it was small but I did not know it was going to be THIS small! Had a bit of trouble at first though. First I popped in a fresh Panasonic CR123 cell and it ran great. Then I popped in a fresh and freshly charged Keeppower 700mah 16340 and it would not work the cell was to long. Luckily I also have a couple Orbtronic 700mah 16340's on hand which turned out to be 2mm shorter than the Keeppower and works great! Man this tiny little light is easily twice as bright as my SRT3 running on the same cell! I love it! No wonder it is so popular! The threads and O ring were bone dry out the box luckily I got my Nyogel 760 G order today as well so that got taken care of.


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## american (Jun 20, 2016)

I honestly hate my s1 the tint hurts my eyes the button hurts my finger the magnet tail gets stuck to everything I don't want it too. much prefer my zebralight sC 52w same size basically brighter better battery choice easier to hold easier to use


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## VB Dad (Jun 20, 2016)

american said:


> I honestly hate my s1 the tint hurts my eyes the button hurts my finger the magnet tail gets stuck to everything I don't want it too. much prefer my zebralight sC 52w same size basically brighter better battery choice easier to hold easier to use



+1 

Was really looking forward to this light as well. Picked up a Ti version and the magnet does start to get in the way.


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## TheShadowGuy (Jun 20, 2016)

The magnet is fairly easy to remove if it is a problem.

As far as tint goes.... It would fit right into that Eiffel 65 song.  I'm curious how the neutral variants look though, or if someone modded in a Nichia how that would look through the S1's TIR.


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## CelticCross74 (Jun 21, 2016)

different strokes for different folks I guess. The emitter is just a moderately powered XML2 U2 CW seen this tint countless times. Do admit its my first TIR optic light which gives an all hot spot beam profile I guess that can throw some people off. From the YT reviews Ive seen the NW S1 tint looks pretty good I would compare it to the NW MH20 tint which is very good. As for the magnet I think it is pretty cool its very powerful must be rare earth type. Easy as pie to remove. May pick me up one of the limited edition NW versions that have a slightly different UI but everybody is sold out of em.


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## tops2 (Jun 21, 2016)

To me, for EDC purpose with no other lights used for comparison, the tint is ok. But once I light up one of my other lights next to my S1, I switch to my other lights. If I can get the same tint as my Zebralight SC5w OP or my BLF 348..I'd be pretty much done with lights. Or have my SC5w be the same size and weight as the S1!

Otherwise, I still love the light for the power & size ratio.


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## Skaaphaas (Jun 21, 2016)

american said:


> I honestly hate my s1 the tint hurts my eyes the button hurts my finger...


Did you perhaps write a recent article on firing an AR15? ;-)


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## american (Jun 21, 2016)

Skaaphaas said:


> Did you perhaps write a recent article on firing an AR15? ;-)


what no I love ar15s


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## DMS1970 (Jun 21, 2016)

Skaaphaas said:


> Did you perhaps write a recent article on firing an AR15? ;-)



Lol. Did the button hurt your finger and cause temporary PTSD?

great reference to a recent news story!


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## eraursls1984 (Jun 22, 2016)

Skaaphaas said:


> Did you perhaps write a recent article on firing an AR15? ;-)


He just did an article on the Prius.


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## witness (Aug 27, 2016)

*2 User Questions*

1) Isn't this new S1 Baton supposed to remember what setting you were on last? Mine just remembers for about 5 minutes and then I have cycle through the modes again.

2) Is there anyway to access the secondary high brightness level (300 lumens) without having to go to the turbo mode (500 lumens) first and then wait for it to step down?


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## KeepingItLight (Aug 27, 2016)

*Re: 2 User Questions*



witness said:


> 1) Isn't this new S1 Baton supposed to remember what setting you were on last? Mine just remembers for about 5 minutes and then I have cycle through the modes again.



Except in the earliest versions of the S1:

1. Moonlight mode is never memorized.
2. When activated by double-clicking from off, High mode is not stored in mode memory. 
3. Press-and-hold, when on, is the only way to store a mode in mode memory.
4. Ten minutes after power off, if present there, High mode is erased from mode memory, and mode memory is set to Low mode.

Note: The new S1A and S2A have a slightly different user interface. Moonlight and High are retained in mode memory even when activated by a shortcut from off.




witness said:


> 2) Is there anyway to access the secondary high brightness level (300 lumens) without having to go to the turbo mode (500 lumens) first and then wait for it to step down?



As far as I know, there is no direct way to access the secondary brightness level. You have to wait for Turbo mode to step down.

I posted a simple, yet complete, description of the user interface here. Most of the points in this message are taken from it.

The UI of the S1 is one of my favorites.


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## CelticCross74 (Aug 27, 2016)

*Re: 2 User Questions*

hey its the S1 thread! Have since gotten the S1A. I use both these lights every day. The S1 is sooooo small it is easy to misplace. I like the UI on the S1A much better. Love the magnets in them both. Really wish both lights had a true all the time memory mode that would help a lot. Am still amazed at these tiny marvels and am looking forward to the special S1A editions


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## tops2 (Aug 27, 2016)

*Re: 2 User Questions*

I like my newer S1 UI that doesn't memorize moonlight and high since there's already short cuts to them. But my main wish is for Olight to just stick with one UI and keep it consistent. If I had more of these Batons, I'll probably start getting confused which is while after awhile...


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## witness (Aug 27, 2016)

*Re: 2 User Questions*

Thanks everyone, I thought I had a defective light.


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## KeepingItLight (Aug 27, 2016)

*Re: 2 User Questions*



tops2 said:


> I like my newer S1 UI that doesn't memorize moonlight and high since there's already short cuts to them. But my main wish is for Olight to just stick with one UI and keep it consistent.




I completely agree!


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## witness (Aug 27, 2016)

*For me this a significant flaw.*



KeepingItLight said:


> As far as I know, there is no direct way to access the secondary brightness level. You have to wait for Turbo mode to step down.



I quite like this light and I think it's going to be a step up from my Foursevens MiniMLX but... nothing is ever perfect and, to me, the way the turbo mode is set up is an annoying flaw. It seems to me to be set up so that you can impress your friends with the brightness of the light which is of no value as far as I'm concerned. I want a practical light in my pocket for emergencies. I see no value whatsoever in illuminating a setting with a bright light (before your eyes have had a chance to adjust) and then having it gradually get dimmer. I'd rather start with the slightly lower setting and adjust to it immediately and... be confident that it's going to be stable while I use it to get a job done.


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## witness (Aug 27, 2016)

*Why doesn't the AW RCR123 750mAh work in the S!*

Going Gear told me that the AW RCR123 750mAh battery would work so, naturally, after purchasing a couple I find out they don't. Anyone know why this would be the case if the only difference between the AW and Olight RCR123 is the fact that the AW is 750mAh (which should be a good thing)?


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## olemil (Aug 28, 2016)

*Re: Why doesn't the AW RCR123 750mAh work in the S!*

Sorry, I thought this was the S1a thread, my bad.


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## CelticCross74 (Aug 28, 2016)

*Re: Why doesn't the AW RCR123 750mAh work in the S!*

anybody know of a good source for the AW16340 and or the ET16340 both 750mah? GG never has them in stock


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## witness (Aug 28, 2016)

*Re: Why doesn't the AW RCR123 750mAh work in the S!*



olemil said:


> Finally got my replacement from GG yesterday and this ones works spot on, no problems with switch at all _*(Thanks Going Gear for your great service!!). *_In fact I was so tickled I ordered two 14500 Olight 750mah batteries to put in it from them.



Of course I mention one little problem I had with GG and someone has to jump in a claim how great they are. I'm not so sure how replacing a defective product is good service. It's expected and something you have paid for. 

On the other hand I do expect a dealer to know their product and not just say whatever they think the customer wants to hear in order to make a sale. I didn't mention it before but...as a point of fact it wasn't just one thing they misinformed me on, it was *three:
* 
1) the owner told me I could access the 300 lumen mode of high directly by utilizing the memory feature. (not true)
2) the girl who answered the phone on a different occasion told me that the light could sustain it's 500 lumen output for 1.5 hours. (when in fact it can only be sustained for 1.5 minutes) 
3) the owner told me that AW RCR123 750 mAh batteries would work. (they do not) 

*Thanx GG for the not so great service!

*


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## CelticCross74 (Aug 28, 2016)

*Re: Why doesn't the AW RCR123 750mAh work in the S!*

Marshall himself told you the AW's would work? I am unaware of any memory feature at 300. The girl on the phone was likely just going off the info printed on the box.

Nobody is perfect. GG in my vast experience with them have been first rate all the way. I have bought enough off GG to put Marshalls daughter through college. If I ever had an issue they took care of me quickly. They also must sell more lights than any other US online retailer so some things may get lost in the shuffle sometimes.


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## olemil (Aug 28, 2016)

*Re: Why doesn't the AW RCR123 750mAh work in the S!*



witness said:


> Of course I mention one little problem I had with GG and someone has to jump in a claim how great they are. I'm not so sure how replacing a defective product is good service. It's expected and something you have paid for.
> 
> On the other hand I do expect a dealer to know their product and not just say whatever they think the customer wants to hear in order to make a sale. I didn't mention it before but...as a point of fact it wasn't just one thing they misinformed me on, it was *three:
> 
> ...



Sorry you have had bad luck with GG. I've always been pleased with their service, rather it was replying to question on a product via email, telephone conversations, super fast shipping and warranty claims. I guess they could have told me they have to send my light back to the company and it would take 6 months turn around. It seems everyone has different experiences with different company's.


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## witness (Aug 31, 2016)

*Re: Why doesn't the AW RCR123 750mAh work in the S!*



olemil said:


> Sorry you have had bad luck with GG. I've always been pleased with their service, rather it was replying to question on a product via email, telephone conversations, super fast shipping and warranty claims. I guess they could have told me they have to send my light back to the company and it would take 6 months turn around. It seems everyone has different experiences with different company's.



Naturally, just to add insult to injury, after only 4 days the light stopped working properly (and now shuts off after 30 seconds and then won't turn on unless I losses and tighten the tailcoat). Now I have to deal with the whole song and dance of a return across the border (at my own expense I suspect).:scowl:


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## witness (Aug 31, 2016)

*Going Gear is now refusing to refund my defective light.*

*I sent Going Gear this sloppily composed email (it was late at night):*
_
...after only a few days and virtually no use the light has stopped woking. it has stopped functioning. I turn the light on high and within about 30 seconds it shuts off. It won’t turn back on for a minute or two then only after loosening and tightening the tail cap. How do I go about a return. I suppose I am on the hook for shipping on top of inconvenience of this whole transaction has turned out to be. 

_*Instead of getting an RMA I got this absurd response appearing to suggest the light is functioning normally:*

_You are hitting the protection circuit on the battery. That function is designed to keep the light/battery from overheating._

*As it turns out the light now cuts out after only a second or two and, as a result of the above refusal to provide an RMA, I was forced to phone the company. Of course I was a little annoyed (though I wasn't yelling or using profanity) and then the guy at GG used the fact that I was agitated as a reason to refuse to give me an RMA over the phone. At that point I really did get pissed (and there was some profanity) but ....*


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## CelticCross74 (Aug 31, 2016)

*Re: Going Gear is now refusing to refund my defective light.*

take it easy man GG is the last retailer you want to lose it with. Keep your cool and Marshall will make sure you are taken care of


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## JSTARR (Sep 2, 2016)

These are wonderful, tiny lights. The interface is intuitive for me. 

My one problem with them is that friends admire them, and I give them away, which is getting expensive. I'm on number 4. Batteries last me quite a while, so I haven't been tempted by the new rechargeable one.


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## rookiedaddy (Sep 3, 2016)

witness said:


> *...*
> _You are hitting the protection circuit on the battery. That function is designed to keep the light/battery from overheating._
> 
> *As it turns out the light now cuts out after only a second or two and...*


hmm... curious, let's find out. I have some old AW ICR123 around for my incan G2, let's do some testing...
first, charge up the batteries...






both battery giving same reading after finish charging (both been rest in the charger for >15 minutes).





now, a video recording of ~9.5 minutes testing different batteries in S1 Baton:

it's a boring video, feel free to skip around.

findings from the video:


my old AW ICR123 750mAh cannot sustain the current draw and light gets shuts-off. possibly triggers the protection circuit. need to loosen the tailcap and tighten back to get it to work again.
my very old AW IMR16340 seems to be able to sustain the current draw in S1 and keeps going.
new Olight RCR123A ORB-163P06 is able to deliver the output
new EagleTac Primary CR123A is able to deliver the output

and here are some strange findings about the current draw on max mode... well, some say high, others say turbo, so I use max mode :naughty:

*Cell**Current Draw*Old AW ICR123 750mAh~2.7AOld AW IMR16340 550mAh~2.7ANew Olight RCR123A ORB-163P06~1.8AFresh EagleTac Primary CR123A~1.8AFresh Energizer CR123A~1.8A

why is S1 drawing higher current when using AW cells than Olight's RCR123A and primary (added Energizer CR123A in the test which is not in video)? I measure the current draw with 2 Olight S1 Baton: S1 aluminum and S1 raw copper, same results. strange... :shrug:


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## KeepingItLight (Sep 3, 2016)

Thanks for sharing your measurements. 

The result for CR123A primary battery dovetails with the measurement CPF member Prepped reported in the following post:



Prepped said:


> <snip> ... Also, another user had asked that I take an amperage reading at maximum output, and I got around 1.8 amps, even fluctuating as high as 1.9 amps
> A little worrying seeing as primary CR123's can safely put out around 1.5amps continuously.




CPF member Wet took out the battery and hooked his S1 up to a power supply, resulting in the following plot: 



Wet said:


> I measured with a bench supply how many amps my S1 pulls in the brightest mode:


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## rookiedaddy (Sep 3, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> ...
> CPF member Wet took out the battery and hooked his S1 up to a power supply, resulting in the following plot:


Ah-Ha! Thank you so much for the heads up :thumbsup:. Looks like my old AW cells Voltage sag faster under load and below the nominal Voltage, thus S1 drawing a lot more current in order to maintain the high output, in doing so, the protection in my old AW ICR123 750mAh got tripped. Haha! That's interesting.


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## CelticCross74 (Sep 4, 2016)

I just got some brand new AW 16340's have one in my S1 and its working great


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## vadimax (Sep 4, 2016)

rookiedaddy said:


> Ah-Ha! Thank you so much for the heads up :thumbsup:. Looks like my old AW cells Voltage sag faster under load and below the nominal Voltage, thus S1 drawing a lot more current in order to maintain the high output, in doing so, the protection in my old AW ICR123 750mAh got tripped. Haha! That's interesting.



I should mention that even original Olight's RCR123 gets protection tripped at max power if a battery is discharged to some extent. In low and medium it's OK, but high activates battery's internal current protection.


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## rookiedaddy (Sep 4, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> I just got some brand new AW 16340's have one in my S1 and its working great


Great! now I can use S1 to tell if any of my RCR123 has aged and need to send for recycle. but... oh sh*t... that means I need to replace ~16 pieces of my old RCR123... :mecry:



vadimax said:


> I should mention that even original Olight's RCR123 gets protection tripped at max power if a battery is discharged to some extent. In low and medium it's OK, but high activates battery's internal current protection.


Thanks for the heads-up. :thumbsup:


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## witness (Sep 4, 2016)

*Don't tell me to take easy.*



CelticCross74 said:


> take it easy man GG is the last retailer you want to lose it with. Keep your cool and Marshall will make sure you are taken care of



In my annoyance with the situation I forgot that I actually sent *3 *reasonably worded emails (not 2). In point of fact it was only after my 3rd email (and request for an RMA) was *completely ignored* that I was forced to finally phone. I don't think that, at that point, being _slightly_ annoyed is "losing it" and I make no apologies for finally actually "losing it" after I got further attitude from the owner on the phone.

So, I don't care what your experience has been, I know what my experience was and ... you too can stick your advice someplace uncomfortable.


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## CelticCross74 (Sep 4, 2016)

*Re: Don't tell me to take easy.*

yeesh so much for trying to keep things civil


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## jaycky (Sep 4, 2016)

Thanks for the detailed review, I am looking for a new Flashlight now, but I am not sure whether this one is suitable for me.


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## Bullzeyebill (Sep 5, 2016)

*Re: Don't tell me to take easy.*



witness said:


> So, I don't care what your experience has been, I know what my experience was and ... you too can stick your advice someplace uncomfortable.



It would be good if you read this CPF Rule. Flaming is not acceptable on CPF. If you want to pursue this issue please start a thread in the Jeers Forum, and follow the policies for that thread


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## Grijon (Oct 5, 2016)

*Re: Don't tell me to take easy.*

Thanks for the review! I'm thinking very hard about the current rainbow version.


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## firsttothescene (Oct 18, 2016)

*Re: Don't tell me to take easy.*

Anyone know anything about this charging kit for the s1? Initially it said it was available 11/2016 but now says discontinued.http://www.batteryjunction.com/olight-charging-kit.html


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