# Solarforce L2i & L2r Driving Impressions Ø HEAVY GRAPHICS Ø



## TechnoBill (Oct 23, 2009)

The following *Driving Impression* is based on a single Solarforce L2i and a single Solarforce L2r provided, *gratis*, by *International Trading Company*, hereafter abbreviated as "ITC".
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/INTERNATIONAL-TRADING-COMPANY__W0QQ_armrsZ1

[EDITORIAL NOTE: Footnotes will follow the format "FNxx:" where "xx" is the Footnote number, with the footnotes being listed at the bottom of Post #1]
 
This is my first _Driving Impression_ on CPF, and is the direct result of having purchased a "Solarforce Masterpiece 1000 Lms MCE Cree Led Flashlight" on Tuesday September 22, 2009 from ITC and the ensuing details, posted elsewhere on CPF, regarding a 110 VAC Solarforce Li-Ion charger included with the purchase price, for the two included Solarforce Li-Ion Protected Rechargeable 3.7V 18650 2400mAh batteries. The package included the flashlight, charger, batteries, and shipping via First Class Air Mail from Hong Kong for $119.00 United States Dollars. I received the package, albeit with the incorrect charger FN01, on Monday 09/28/2009.

*MANUFACTURER SPECIFICATIONS:*
The Solarforce *L2i* R2 Cree Led AAAx3 Flashlight, available from ITC for *$23.99* USD FN02: as of October 23, 2009 is specified as follows by the manufacturer:
Brand: Solarforce
Model: L2i Innovator BLACK
Emitter Brand/Type: R2 Cree Led 
Emitter BIN: R2 Cree
Total Emitters: 1
Battery Configurations: 3 pc AAA 1.5v batteries (not included)
Voltage Input: 0.8V-4.2V
Switch Type: Clicky
Switch Location: Tailcap (Tail-cap)
Modes: __ (see note below***)
Weight: 104 grams (without battery)
Lens: Coated Glass Lens
Reflector: Aluminum orange peel textured reflector
Material: Aluminum alloy construction
Length x diameter in (mm): 130mmx25mmx20mm

*** The manufacturer graphic indicates one mode. Functionally, there are three brightness levels; 100%, 40%, and 10%. Once the flashlight is turned on, a light press of the tailcap switches _down_ through the modes. Memory is present, with the flashlight returning to the same level after being switched off then back on. FN03:
 
I have *intentionally omitted Lumens Rating* and *Runtime*, as I haven't the hardware/software to measure OTF lumens to a common standard, and the batteries on hand with which the light(s) were powered were of the "junk drawer" variety.

The Solarforce *L2r* Revolution R2 Cree AAx2 Flashlight, available from ITC for *$23.74* USD FN04: as of October 23, 2009 is specified as follows by the manufacturer:
Brand: Solarforce
Model: L2r Revolution
Emitter Brand/Type: R2 Cree Led
Emitter BIN: R2 Cree Led
Total Emitters: 1
Battery Configurations: 2 pc AA 1.5v batteries (not included)
Voltage Input: 0.8V-4.2V
Switch Type: Clicky
Switch Location: Tailcap (Tail-cap)
Modes: __ (see note above***)
Weight: 104 grams (without battery)
Lens: Coated Glass Lens
Reflector: Aluminum orange peel textured reflector
Material: Aluminum alloy construction
Length x diameter in (mm): 170x 32 x 25

*DRIVER'S 'ROAD' SHOTS:* FN05:
First of all the front and rear of the packaging (only L2i shown)









It should be noted before opening the package, that the *battery orientation* is *non** intuitive* and there are NO HARD COPY INSTRUCTIONS warning thereof. The only alert is the location of the negative spring tabs and small decals on the battery magazine itself. The suggestion of a label, with "Post-It Note" adhesive strength, around the battery magazine has been passed to the folks in Hong Kong. CPFers would not make this mistake, but the suggested recpients (see "Christmas Gift" below) likely WOULD insert the batteries incorrectly. Something similar to the labels covering AC input plugs regarding 110VAC vs. 220VAC on computer power supplies would be ideal.

* Read Polarity on battery magazine CAREFULLY!* Two go in with the positive toward the FRONT (top) of the magazine, one goes in with positive toward the REAR (bottom) of the magazine.








External Shots of the L2r and L2i.






(Lousy photo)

_Very_ classy, and functional advertising, engraving on the tailcap!





The constituent pieces of the L2i. The *L2i* and *L2r* share the *same head* and *drop-in* which is Surefire *6P & 9P compatible* so in some instances, only _one_ of the flashlights is displayed.





The constituent pieces of the L2i, along with an AAA rechargeable NiMH and an UNprotected 18650 2400mAh some bonehead ordered .




The gray ring around the 18650 is the gasket that goes between the crenelated bezel and the lens.

* Vertical Frame of Reference Items:*
Left to Right; Surefire *SF123A* 3v Primary, Sakar *AAA* 1.25v 1000mAh NiMH Rechargeable, Duracell Alkaline *AA* 1.5v Primary, Solarforce Li-Ion UNprotected *18650* 2400mAh Rechargeable, *Crayola* (Ferrari Red), Solarforce *L2i*, *English/Metric* Measure, Solarforce *L2r*, Surefire *C3 Centurion* w/ FM37 beamcover, Insight H2x *Typhoon* w/ Cabela's cover, Solarforce *Masterpiece*.






*Horizontal Frame of Reference Items:*
Left to Right; Surefire *SF123A* 3v Primary, Sakar *AAA* 1.25v 1000mAh NiMH Rechargeable, Duracell Alkaline *AA* 1.5v Primary, Solarforce Li-Ion UNprotected *18650* 2400mAh Rechargeable, *Crayola* (Ferrari Red), Solarforce *L2i*, *English/Metric* Measure, Solarforce *L2r*, Surefire *C3 Centurion* w/ FM37 beamcover, Insight H2x *Typhoon* w/ Cabela's cover, Solarforce *Masterpiece*.





 
*L2 Drop-In*. The Reflector is actually at least TWICE AS DEEP as theses photos make it appear. In the _Driving Impression_ below I document, although w/o photos, the general "throwiness" of these heads.














*DRIVING IMPRESSIONS**:
*Battery Installation:
As noted above, the first prominent issue involved the inconsistent orientation of the batteries in the L2i. Two go in with the positive toward the FRONT (top) of the magazine, one goes in with positive toward the REAR (bottom) of the magazine. The _empty_ battery magazine is displayed above, a magazine with the batteries _correctly_ installed appears below.

View from One Up and One Down … … … … … … … … … … … View from Two Up








Once that preliminary observation was made, I was prepared to find fault with the _idea_ of a flashlight using three AAA batteries. Coming to the world of Flashaholism with the preconceived notion that illumination tools were secondary support devices for far more interesting and powerful tools, I had been spoiled by Ken Good's original Gladius with which I had been acquainted well prior to its actual production. Since that time we've been home to two Gladii of the original configuration, and the second generation Gladius marketed under the Insight brand. The latter was chosen, rather than the Night Ops brand FN06:, as much to see what impact the business sheananigans had had, if any, on our beloved, truly every day carry Gladii.

*A GREAT HOLIDAY GIFT for NONFlashaholics:*
So I was all prepared to conclude that the L2i was the answer to a question no one had asked. That was until I actually started to _use_ it. I'm going to get right to the bottom line, even bypassing the utility of the L2i for use by CPFers, by saying that at twenty four bucks shipped ($23.99 USD) the *L2i* makes a *great Holiday Gift for NON-Flashlight Enthusiasts!* Here's why. Guys, if you live with a woman, go look in her purse :sweat:. Yes, I know, it may be the last living act you ever initiate, but this is important Men. It's about FLASHLIGHTS. I may be going out on a limb here, but I'm guessing the concept well known to North American men of _"My Gosh! She's got more stuff in her purse than I take when I'm camping for two weeks. Heck, there's more in there than when I take a business trip for two weeks including suits, casual business wear, and casual casual wear."_

Where will a Surefire Titan end up in your Mom's purse Sir Craigory? Unless you've subjected her to averse behavioural conditioning, a small light is going to disappear to the bottom of her purse, only to be discovered by archaeologists that look like the aliens that landed at Roswell! The *L2i* is *nicely noticeable* and *sized such that it will be less likely to get misplaced with lipstick, mascara, and such 'essentials', but not so bulky as to annoy her and be banned from her EDDA *FN07:*.*

To modify a phrase common to some of you _"Any flashlight in hand is better than one left at home."_ And with 22½ years of marital bliss, plus some _investigatory courting_ prior to that, I'd say it's a safe bet that the L2i is a flashlight that 1)Will be carried regularly by a woman, 2)Resupplied with new batteries upon expiration (of the batteries), and 3)most importantly will be used regularly!

If men are on your gift giving list, the L2i is NOT a light that to my way of thinking can unobtrusively be carried in jeans, slacks or shirt pockets. The dimensions that make it great for the ladies, restrict it's portability somewhat for men. BUT the pockets in a Sport Coat, possibly a suit depending on whether you wear a generous North American cut or a closer fitting European style, and definitely it would fit nicely in sweatshirt (Hoodies) pockets, outerwear jackets, and dress coats.

The L2r, by contrast, ergonomically speaking might be more or less appropriate to the recipient's, or your, style of dress and carry but since they both use the same head and drop-in, which is Surefire 6P and 9P compatible, the benefits of this rather "throwy" light are available in either configuration given your preferences, batteries already owned, etc.

_*NOT*_* a Gladius pattern, but Not Priced like a Gladius either**:*
The light pattern is characterized by a 'hot spot' with dark artifacts around its periphery, but the cognoscenti can chime in to enlighten me as to whether that is an attribute of the specific LED rather than a weakness specific to the Solarforce implementation of this particular LED. If you are looking for a flawless "White Wall" beam, you are not going to find it and in fact some non-flashaholics may notice it as well, provided they are using it to locate tiny cracks in their drywall from a meter or so away. I'm guessing most non-flashaholics will NOT send your gift back with a nasty note complaining what a cheap skate you are, and concluding with _"Buy me Surefire or just don't bother!" _Again, these are VERY AFFORDABLE flashlights in their stock configuration from ITC and still VERY REASONABLY priced if customer configured and purchased from Jason FN08: If there are other options of the "plain and simple" variety in the $25 to $35 range, please mention these in your response posts. Again, this is not an arena to which I've paid much attention.

*Nice Throw**:*
While the white wall pattern at one meter {will post those photos of dubious benefit in Post #2 below} is a weak point, I consider the throw and concentration of the hot spot to be quite advantageous while envisioning a woman walking out to her car at night with keys and pepper spray in one hand, and an L2i or L2r in the other. I've nothing in this price/purpose range with which to compare, so although clearly more expensive, I've pressed my Fenix P3D Premium Q5 w/ 'Fenix Store Special' 3 *x* CR123A optional body into service for this _Driving Impression_. Against the living room white wall at thirty three feet (ten meters), the hot spot of the L2i and L2r retain what I consider a nice, tight, thirty two inch (0.8 meter) hot spot. At that distance the P3D Q5 has lost its distinction between hot spot and spill, and the light pattern encompassed by where the hot spot is projecting is easily six feet in diameter.

*Crenelated Bezel Could be the Purse Banisher**:*
While I personally like crenelations on flashlights, flash suppressors, suppressors {incorrectly called 'silencers' in Hollyweird movies}, sinus spray bottles, etc. the crenelated bezel is likely to be a hit with the male recipients of your Holiday Gift Giving, but could very well cause the ladies to leave it on the dresser or in a drawer. Bezel down in her purse and we'll be accountable for cuts to the purse itself, miniature tubes of toothpaste sliced open {Don't ask :shakehead} , and all manner of unintended consequences. Here is where Jason and his custom configurations could come into play, either as a whole light, or as a supplier of various 'Lego-tia' with the sincere purpose of customizing your gift for the intended recipient. Of course you could inadvertently order some parts which could be applied to your own 'Legotia' but that's a matter between you and your credit card company  .

*Assorted Observations**:*
*Pro; *The anti-roll bezel does in fact keep the flashlight from rolling on a flat surface and is _greatly_ appreciated! I have a PentagonLight S2 19-LED RED 635nm diffuse low signature light. It is one of the most frequently used flashlights in our house, used by both my wife and I when one of us gets up at night for bodily maintenance issues of uploading or download provisions, letting the dogs out if we fed them too late, or in my case acquiring "tools" to explore a "bump in the night." It is one the most well conceived flashlights I own, with one exception. The anti-roll feature is on the tailcap and the head is greater in diameter than the tailcap. Thus, when placed on a flat surface, the flattened off planes of the anti-roll tailcap never fully contact the surface across the width of any one of their flat planes. Translated, this means the flashlight will not roll as long as you carefully, precisely, place on the surface, then gingerly remove your grip . Not exactly the sort of attribute one wants when 1)it is your sequentially first "go to tool" in the black of night, 2)stealth is one of your primary operational goals/parameters, and 3)you may be accessing it while still technically asleep as regards the true brain wave patterns that obtain at the moment. An anti-roll bezel that does just that is indeed a good thing. 

*Con;* The knurling on the L2i and L2r is _so_ fine that it feels like plastic. Until I disassembled the first unit to examine the interior of the body I expected to find a plastic body, with a separate means of electrically connecting the head and tailcap. This extremely fine knurling makes the flashlights feel cheap in hand, and is not helpful if your hands are remotely sweaty or have a natural level of skin oil, not to mention being wet.

*Pro;* That same fine knurling will not damage other items in Milady's suitcase, erh... I mean "purse."

*YMMV; *FN09: I've noticed, in passing, that some CPF forum members have welcomed the news of the AA Solarforce L2r as they already have a stock of Eneloops with which to feed the L2r. If AA, or AAA for that matter, configuration is a "Plus" for you, whether primaries or rechargeables are "your thing" I can honestly say you've not likely to go wrong with either the L2i or L2r at these prices! I even need to keep reminding myself that these are very INexpensive illumination devices, but from my limited exposure are certainly NOT subject to the pejorative "cheap."

*YMMV #2 An interesting exercise for a primarily defensive and offensive tool user:* As one who is not, or didn't expect to be, in the target demographic/market for these flashlights, I have found this to be a surprisingly enjoyable chronicling of my _Driving Impressions_. As I noted in the post linked by Footnote #1, the reviews, tests, questions, and opinions I find most enjoyable here on CPF, as well as Firearms and Tactical Forums, are the ones where the poster makes explicit their intended use, as well as the constraints upon their use, and the options open to them. Trolling for confrontation, polling how many other people think [Insert Loathed Feature Here] are useless, signs of cognitive dysfunction on the part of those who value those features, and are a deeply personal affront to your dignity and autonomy as a human being are frankly boring. After all, we presumably come here for recreation, enjoyment, and to learn neat new stuff from folks who are already experienced in a field that is new, novel, and where the simplest concepts (to others) are revelatory to us as Newbies.

Approaching something, a flashlight for instance, from a perspective other than our own can be interesting in itself but it can also enrich our own toolkit as it applies to _our_ specific intended needs (O.K. "wants") The L2i with its short and stocky dimensions has my brain abuzz pondering whether a tightly packed "little" 3x18650 light with the Li-Ions _physically_ parallel would fit in with _my_ preference for _"I can make room for the extra power, runtime, barrel length, rounds, etc."_ At 6'1" 185lbs. I carry concealed tools that much larger men (bigger and stronger) assert are "too big" to successfully carry on a day to day basis. It's all about what you want, and what concessions you are willing to make to get there.

And that's why I continue to be impressed with the members here at CPF! For a worldwide forum where people can be as anonymous or as revealing as they choose, this little gathering spot has an exemplary signal/noise ratio, a courteous and civil interchange of ideas, and a genuinely welcoming group of hopeless addicts  . For the most part, the experienced people really seem to enjoy helping us newbies sort through the mountains of technicalities. And isn't that the point of any hobby? To have fun, and share that fun with others? lovecpf


*Footnotes**:*
FN01: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/243843
FN02: http://cgi.ebay.com/Solarforce-L2i-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4149d0ce22
FN03: My Solarforce Masterpiece, and I find this *extremely irritating*, has what I personally consider a bizzare User Interface, that in my opinion offers NO benefits and considerable detriments. The tail cap, when fully depressed, turns the light on and off, BUT the brightness CAN NOT BE CHANGED WITH THE LIGHT TURNED ON! To change brightness levels, the light has to be turned off, then a light (low pressure) press to the tailcap, and this must be within a period of a "few" seconds, changes the brightness levels. Thus I have to turn off the light, change levels, and then turn the light back on. The low pressure tailcap press can not even be used as a momentary activation (as would be useful for defensive purposes) for unless the "press-es" are separated by a "few" seconds, the light drops down level by level, hardly the wall of light requisite for a "Flash, Move, Fire" maneuver! *Other Masterpiece owners: Is this characteristic of the function of your Masterpiece, or is mine defective?* As noted in the Footnote #1, I use my Masterpiece for walking our German Shepherd Dogs, and always use the 100% percent mode so it is not a source of recurrent irritation, although it does irritate me, but if my usage were not characterized by single brightness level it would most definitely be a deal breaker. Per my usage pattern, *I LOVE My Masterpiece*  as it is quite the 'manageably' sized 'Hand Cannon' to use as an adjunct to verbal commands {in German so as not to intermix commands with conversation} for the GSDs, to alert other people (Human, Canid, Bunnies, etc.) in the neighborhood to our approach, and preclude overtaking a cat skulking about. Gaits of trotting and sprinting are included in our On Leash training.
FN04: http://cgi.ebay.com/Solarforce-L2r-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef93d2377
FN05: Yes, I know the photos are from our living room, and I take full blame for not even getting some outdoor distance shots. I hope to rectify the latter in the near future in Post #2. But I'm first and foremost a CAR GUY with Blu-Ray memory of the first time I saw a brand new metal flake gold 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado doing a 10MPH cruise straight toward me at our camp ground. I skidded my single speed bicycle to a dead stop and stared, slack jawed, at what is still a stunning piece of automotive architecture. I followed the man to his family's trailer and began peppering him with questions. _"FRONT WHEEL DRIVE? You're making that up! You mean you can lay a patch with the front wheels? Show me!"_ FN05B: The automotive allusions stay!
~~~~FN05B: http://www.motortrend.com/classic/roadtests/c12_0509_1966_oldsmobile_toronado/photo_06.html
FN06: How many of you concealed carry guys have a Genuine Night Ops hat :nana: ? I ritualistically KISS that hat upon donning, and before carefully storing after wearing. I have no other hat so revered as my Night Ops. La Rue Tactical hat, bottle opener, Dillo Dust? Without doubt La Rue gear is bespoke quality of the highest order for long gun gear sure, but a mere Volkswagen Golf compared to my Maybach from Night Ops. *Ken Good, Thank You Sir



!*
FN07: "Every Day Drag Around"
FN08:  Jake25 on CPF http://www.sbflashlights.com/cart.html 
FN09: "Your Mileage May Vary."

TBtO~ END OF HTML CODE ~TBtO


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## TechnoBill (Oct 23, 2009)

Reserved by TBtO for updates etc.

As noted in Post #1, the present state of light exposure photography is constrained on many fronts.
What follows is, at best of dubious value but conceivably could be preferable to a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.
1) All photos were taken at one meter from a "white" wall.
2) All photos were taken with the camera set to an ISO of 50 to produce minimal noise for those who may wish to scrutinize the beam patterns of the Solarforce Drop-In that is provided as part of the L2i and L2r.
3) All photos were taken with an aperture setting of f2.8
4) Thumbnail links to large file originals are provided to save forum space, yet provide maximum resolution for artifact hunters.
5) The left column is the Fenix P3D Q5, 3 x CR123A, fresh batteries set on High (not turbo).
6) The right column is the Solarforce L2 drop-in, in this case the L2r, set on high using two Duracell Alkaline AA 1.5v Primaries.
7) The only variable is length of exposure, with identical shutter speeds paired horizontally

*Fenix P3D Q5* … … … … … *Solarforce L2r*

1/3 Second


 



1/5 Second


 



1/10 Second


 



1/15 Second


 



1/30 Second


 



1/60 Second


 



1/125 Second


 



1/250 Second


 




*MAGAZINE BATTERY:*
NEGATIVE end of magazine




POSITIVE end of magazine


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## csshih (Oct 23, 2009)

> *Other Masterpiece owners: Is this characteristic of the function of your Masterpiece, or is mine defective?*


the masterpiece uses a "forward clicky"

and the L2 series uses a "reverse clicky"

a forward clicky can have the light activate with only a half press, wheras with the reverse clicky, you have to click the button, then let go.

you can temporarily shut off a reverse flicky by half pressing the cap, but you can't do this with the forward clicky.
the switching software is built to respond to these sudden power outages, and change modes.


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## TechnoBill (Oct 23, 2009)

csshih said:


> the masterpiece uses a "forward clicky"
> 
> and the L2 series uses a "reverse clicky"
> 
> ...


:bow: You speak with the experience of one who has spent much time behind closed doors with curtains drawn Sir Craigory!

I go now to conduct experiments in the dark, to ponder the import of these revelations, to discern divers gifts of "The Light." oo:


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## jimmyjames (Oct 24, 2009)

Curious if the 3 AAA battery holder configuration yields 4.5 volts nominal, IE all in series or are 2 batts in parallel with the other in series? Just wondering on a 4.2v max drop in. Three fresh hi quality alkaline AAA's will show 1.65 volts each which when in series will be darn close to 5 volts. Will the "hi ouput" drop in take this without damage?


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## csshih (Oct 24, 2009)

jimmyjames said:


> Curious if the 3 AAA battery holder configuration yields 4.5 volts nominal, IE all in series or are 2 batts in parallel with the other in series? Just wondering on a 4.2v max drop in. Three fresh hi quality alkaline AAA's will show 1.65 volts each which when in series will be darn close to 5 volts. Will the "hi ouput" drop in take this without damage?



those cells will quickly drop their voltage under any sort of load -- so you're fine. I am unsure about L92s, though.:thinking: I don't suspect the driver would be that sensitive.

heh.. bill and Grats on 100 *QUALITY *posts!!


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## jimmyjames (Oct 24, 2009)

Good to know. Have 4 lights now that use 3 AAA cartridge, two of which were el cheapo give aways that are low lumen multi led affairs but appear to be capable of accepting an R2 drop in. Worth picking one up and trying anyway.


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## ^Gurthang (Oct 24, 2009)

Excellent "test drive"!! Very well written w/ good insight into the differences of the I & R versions. Looks like an excellent Xmas gift choice just got better.


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## TechnoBill (Oct 24, 2009)

^Gurthang said:


> Excellent "test drive"!! Very well written w/ good insight into the differences of the I & R versions. Looks like an excellent Xmas gift choice just got better.


Thank You ^Gurthang!

I feel bad that I can't prod my wife's Konica/Minolta DiMage Z3 into serving as a light meter. A firmware machine code upload exists for a Craig's (csshih) point and shoot Canon, http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK, but I can't find one for the Z3, and my programming skills date back to COBOL. Also I do NOT want to turn my wife's Z3 into a paperweight :duck: . BIOS, or whatever firmware in a camera is called, can be a blissfully direct interaction for those of us who cut our teeth on 12" monochrome dumb terminals and punch cards, but I've seen many "smart" guys, some amateur "CrashMaster3000" parts assemblers, some Faculty, turn PCs into doorstops, or at least a collection of great components lacking a functional motherboard. So I'm not about to go poking around in the entrails of the camera of "She Who Must Be Obeyed."

I _am_ working on "acquiring" a location that I can consistently access for outdoor shots in the ten meter to fifty meter range, preferably with a flat terminus such as a building. Despite being "down with" the local constabulary, there are a lot of primo public and private locations that are off limits. Some will merely elicit "Bill, come on, at least move your setup to where it can't be seen from the road." to ending up fielding questions from Federal Law Enforcement Officers as a "guest" in one of their regional H.Q.s. The reality is allegedly far less glamorous, and far more frightening, than the atmospheric gibberish portrayed on T.V. Chats with Feds is well beyond "Taking one for the Flashaholism Team" in my opinion  .


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## TechnoBill (Oct 24, 2009)

jimmyjames said:


> Curious if all in series or are 2 batts in parallel with the other in series?


Battery Magazine Detail Photos Added in Post #2. Sorry for zoning that in original post. Doh!


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## kosPap (Oct 28, 2009)

bill could you test if a C-size cell fits? and how much space is left?

you know what i am hoping for...C Li-ions


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## TechnoBill (Oct 29, 2009)

kosPap said:


> bill could you test if a C-size cell fits? and how much space is left?
> 
> you know what i am hoping for...C Li-ions


Do you mean just ordinary C batteries, such as NiMH C rechargeables, just to see if they fit with the magazine removed?


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## shark_za (Oct 29, 2009)

I assume the L2r has a thinner body and does not take a standard 6P type tailcap?


I'm better served by a normal L2 with the 1 cell extender and the low voltage drop in. 
An inner sleeve to stop the AA's from rattling around will need to be made but to me this is a better setup. 

I want a L2r and L2i anyway


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## TechnoBill (Oct 29, 2009)

shark_za said:


> I assume the L2r has a thinner body and does not take a standard 6P type tailcap?


My first Surefire(s) was a pair of C3 Centurions and I've not owned, nor handled, a 6P or 9P. The C3 tailcap is of much greater diameter than the L2r.

Also, being a newbie to 'mix and match' from different manufacturers, I've no idea whether the thread patterns are compatible.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.:shrug:


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## Drewfus2101 (Oct 29, 2009)

kosPap said:


> bill could you test if a C-size cell fits? and how much space is left?
> 
> you know what i am hoping for...C Li-ions



Ditto this. A Solarforce body that will hold a C size lithium-ion and still use the P60 drop-ins and "Surefire C head" will be a great thing. 

That is without the AAA holder. Maybe even take some measurements on the diameter and length available? Thanks

My Solarforce collection KEEPS GROWING!


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## Drewfus2101 (Oct 29, 2009)

Also, I'm largely anti the 3 x AAA design. I just hate AAA alkalines. I don't know how the website can quote 45 minutes for runtime. BUT, that body could be useful if it will hold an AW C size lithium-ion.

For the 2xAA, I really like that form-factor and layout. I will eventually have to pick up one of these, as I think that 2xAA form could be useful, but I'd rather have the 1xC.


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## TechnoBill (Oct 29, 2009)

Drewfus2101 said:


> Ditto this. A Solarforce body that will hold a C size lithium-ion and still use the P60 drop-ins and "Surefire C head" will be a great thing.
> 
> That is without the AAA holder. Maybe even take some measurements on the diameter and length available? Thanks
> 
> My Solarforce collection KEEPS GROWING!


Will do. Currently the L2i is draining "the fourth battery" {Sounds like a war or SciFi movie eh?}. I'm using the finest AAA rechargeables and charger available, in my wife's household stuff storage system :laughing: . So I've got a grand total of 4 AAA Sakars, and an Energizer (YES, I know) charger. It will only charge pairs, and I would NOT bet my life on it being a "smart" charger, so I'm draining the fourth battery by putting it immediately below the positive pole of the magazine with two "deadish" NiMHs downstream.

SCIENCE GUYS: Will this draining method cause the Large Hadron Collider to suck our Solar System into a Dumpster in another space/time continuum?


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## cir2kuk (Oct 29, 2009)

Sizes quoted dont seem right, does anyone have the correct sizes?


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## TechnoBill (Oct 29, 2009)

kosPap said:


> bill could you test if a C-size cell fits? and how much space is left?
> 
> you know what i am hoping for...C Li-ions


Using "C" size NiMH rechargeables: OD 63/64ths of an inch or 1 inch.
1)The battery fits in the last 1/8" (tail end) before threads begin. This is the area where the O-Ring seats. The ID of that section is 1"
2)The OD of the tailcap threads 63/64ths
3)The plastic portion of the battery magazine is 2" 1/8 long
4)The battery magazine including the positive pole and negative pole is 2" 5/16 long


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## kosPap (Oct 30, 2009)

do there is room for a 26550 battery lengthwise but it cannot be inserted from the tailcap end..but what about from the front, below the drop-in?


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## TechnoBill (Oct 30, 2009)

kosPap said:


> do there is room for a 26550 battery lengthwise but it cannot be inserted from the tailcap end..but what about from the front, below the drop-in?


At the front of the body (below the drop-in) there's a "neck", presumably to seat the outer edge of the battery magazine, which is more restrictive than the "tail entry mode"

Certain things are Universal, or at least planet wide, for men. Do you remember the 1966 movie Fantastic Voyage co-starring Raquel Welch ? 
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060397/
http://www.imdb.com/media/rm2504562688/tt0060397 

Mechanical drawing was never my forte, so the best I can do is like this:
1) You're tiny, your height is about 1/8 the diameter of a normal "C" battery.
2) The Solarforce L2i body is lying horizontally.
3) You walk up to the tail end.
4) You step up 'one step'  (the thickness of the body periphery) into the short zone where the O-ring from the tailcap seats.
5) You take a few steps forward, then step up over a little curb onto the threads.
6) You take a few steps forward, on the top edges of the threads, then across onto the smooth bore of the majority of the length of the body (the battery magazine is NOT inserted during your Fantastic Voyage).
7) The "smooth bore" is roughly the same diameter as  the top edges of the threads.
8) You walk along 40 meters, 50 yards, or so, then you reach a "neck" that comes up to the middle of your thighs. You are now standing where the top of the battery magazine normally is retained. This neck prevents the battery magazine from being removed from the "head end." The battery magazine can only be removed from the "tail end."

The "normal C" battery can only be inserted as far as the black extends. It is stopped at/by the threads.


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## toby_pra (Oct 30, 2009)

Very nice shots!


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## kosPap (Oct 30, 2009)

TechnoBill said:


> A


 
I don't liek it..I don't like it at all..at first i thought it would be easy to ream out the ledge, but this photo ahowa that it is where the drop-ins outer spring rests.... damn this was a miss

Thanks anyway bill, good work with the pics...kostas


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## Drewfus2101 (Oct 30, 2009)

I would still like to see someone give it a shot. That is very close, and hopefully won't require too much work. 

EDIT:
A quick measure with my digital calipers shows the AW IMR 26650 to be 26.25mm (1.03") in diameter and 50.12mm (1.97") in length. FYI.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Dec 26, 2009)

Now if only Solarforce would introduce an AA extender so we could play Lego, creating a 3AA or 4AA longbody...


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## asmith (Dec 31, 2009)

Has anyone posted runtime figures for the Solarforce L2r? I'm looking for a cheap 2xAA that can run around 90 minutes until dropping to 50%.

Edit: Maybe 90 minutes is too ambitious (I'm not sure), but I just want something that runs a bit longer than average.


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## LG&M (Jan 1, 2010)

That is one of the cool things about using drop in's. You can have long run time. You can have high output or you can have something in the middle.


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## jimmyjames (Jan 5, 2010)

Don't know about the L2r but the L2i with cheap but new AAA's will only run about 30minutes on hi.


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## BinkyBuzzard (Jan 6, 2010)

csshih said:


> those cells will quickly drop their voltage under any sort of load -- so you're fine. I am unsure about L92s, though.:thinking: I don't suspect the driver would be that sensitive.




It is. I put 3 lithium AAA's in which measured 4.66 volts in the cartridge and the drop-in went


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## shark_za (Apr 13, 2010)

asmith said:


> Has anyone posted runtime figures for the Solarforce L2r? I'm looking for a cheap 2xAA that can run around 90 minutes until dropping to 50%.
> 
> Edit: Maybe 90 minutes is too ambitious (I'm not sure), but I just want something that runs a bit longer than average.




Tough to say without something to measure if its down to 50%. 

I charged up my Uniross performance NiMh's , they give a real 2500mAh at 500mA draw in all tests. A good 30% over Eneloops. 

I started the light and let it run a little. Measured the tailcap draw. 1.5A. 
After about 1:40 (100 mins) I started wondering what was going on, things looked as bright as minute 1 (hard to tell) so I stopped it and measured. 2A. 
Each cell was at 1.15v. 
This stop was less than 60 seconds long, I started again. 

Around 2 hours I started to see a drop in output. I stopped and measured 1.5A. Cells were each 1.1v. 

I'd say you would get at least 90 minutes on Eneloops, I'm really impressed.


Solarforce Green Label 0.8-4.2v Single Mode Drop In. 
Uniross Performance 2700 NiMh 
Solarforce L2r


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## kosPap (Apr 13, 2010)

that is GOOD info.....many thanks!


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## BigBluefish (Apr 13, 2010)

Am I missing something, or is the L2i a pretty cool poor man's Malkoff M30 host? The M30 is rated for, I think 1.5 - 5.5 volts. With three AA enloops, that should give what, 4.5 volts and about 2400 mah? That beats heck out of a CR123a primary.


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## Paul_in_Maryland (Apr 13, 2010)

Sorry, but the L2i uses three AAA cells, not three AA. And you won't get 1.5V from any Eneloop. 

My hosts are all 1AA, 2AA, or 3AA, from FiveMega Dereelight. I use 1.6V nickel-zinc cells but I can't if the drop-in's voltage range falls between the voltages provided by these cells. For example, ThruNite's newest 1.5A XP-G drop-in is designed for voltages between 3.6 and 4.2V. Two nickel-zincs are too weak; three, too strong. I'd need to use my Eneloops, which deliver 1.2-1.3V (under load).


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## shark_za (Apr 13, 2010)

I see what you are saying but its not entirely correct. 

3x AAA Ni-Mh will still only give the 800mAh at the 3.6v.
This is about 150mAh more than most rechargeable 16340 Li-ion cells. 
Nowhere near anything with similar volume like an 18650 that will give a genuine 2200mAh.

The 0.8-4.2v modules are really nice, I don't like the PWM flicker in the 3-mode but the single mode is a beaut. Throws better than my iTP C8 and LD20 and puts out more or less the same overall.

For the enthusiast the 2xAA body is quite versatile. This model allows you to use 2x14500 with other higher voltage regulated dropins to get maximum brightness of 7.4v-8.4v. This is the sweet spot voltage of a lot of dropins. 

Using nominal voltage and not taking voltage drop and other things into account

3xAAA (3.6v x 800mAh) = 2.8Wh 
1xCR123A (3v x 1500mAh) = 4.5Wh
2xAA LSD (2.4v x 2000mAh) = 4.8Wh 
2x14500 (7.4v 750mAh) = 5.5Wh 
2xAA 2700 (2.4v 2500mAh) = 6.0Wh


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## BigBluefish (Apr 13, 2010)

shark_za said:


> I see what you are saying but its not entirely correct.
> 
> 3x AAA Ni-Mh will still only give the 800mAh at the 3.6v.
> This is about 150mAh more than most rechargeable 16340 Li-ion cells.
> ...


 
Aha, 3 AAA's gives more voltage, but you're looking at the same mAh. (I think I need to go back and read some basic battery threads). So, we're still at about the same performace level as a 16340? That's not really so bad is it? I mean, if you have a bunch of AAA eneloops looking for something to do, have no 16340s or charger, and have a hankering for a Malkoff?


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## march.brown (Apr 14, 2010)

The L2i was the first Solarforce that I bought ... I have altered it slightly to take a 18650 as I wanted a longer runtime ... I put a 5mm spacer between the head and the body , plus a short length of plastic water pipe in the body to stop the battery rattling and it works great ... The 5mm spacer is just a piece of plastic tube that happened to be the right size which was then painted to match the lovely sand colour ... The L2i endcap is nicer than the L2s and it will tailstand if it is ever needed. 

I wish now that I had bought two more L2is rather than the L2s , though this is just my personal preference ... With the crenellated bezel it is now 138mm ... Without this bezel it is only 130mm long and no big button sticking out of the tailcap like the L2.


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## LV426 (May 3, 2010)

Sorry to hi-jack this excellent thread!
Any idea on swapping the reverse switch on the L2R to a fwd (no soldering)?
I've used some "Romisens" on my 3 L2/L2Ps...


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## kosPap (May 4, 2010)

non yet. i have one but I am keeping it sealed for a gift....
If anyone can post a pic of the switch innards maybe i can lead him on a how-to


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## Midnight Oil (May 18, 2010)

I've been using my Nailbender XP-G R3 1-4.2V in my CL1H V4 with no problems. 

Just got my L2r today. I took the drop-in out of the CL1H, installed the external spring, and popped it into the L2r with 2 alkaline AAs. The light turned on but was very dim. Right after I quickly flipped through the different modes, it suddenly turned off and would not turn on again. I took the contact spring off and popped the drop-in back into my CL1H host. Clicked and no light !

Is it possible I've experienced a short and my drop-in is now useless?


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## Swedpat (May 18, 2010)

Today I received a Solarforce L2i with a 0,8-4,2V dropin. Really nice light! Feels good in my hand, very similar to Surefire 6P and stabile tailstandability. This is my second Solarforce (first was a L2r). It's the same model of dropin to both but this new one has a much better white tint and not that purple as with the dropin to my L2r. :thumbsup:

I just wish Solarforce would offer 1 mode dropins also with lower outputs, like Malkoff does. And without PWM or with a higher frequency. The PWM of Solarforce dropins are way too low frequency in my opinion. 
Apart from that I think Solarforce are really good lights for the money.

Someone asked about the runtime of L2r. I earlier measured very exactly 90minutes stable output with NiMh cells at highest mode. Just now I don't remember what kind of NiMh I used, but I have it noticed somewhere. 

Regards, Patric


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## Swedpat (May 23, 2010)

About L2r and L2i I wonder if there is any dropin out there which can be used and give moderate brightness (50-70lumens) without PWM? I find the low and mid of the 3-modes Solarforce dropins to be quite annoying. And the highest mode without PWM will give (too) short regulated runtime even with NiMh, in my opinion.

Regards, Patric


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## Paul_in_Maryland (May 23, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> I've been using my Nailbender XP-G R3 1-4.2V in my CL1H V4 with no problems.
> 
> Just got my L2r today. I took the drop-in out of the CL1H, installed the external spring, and popped it into the L2r with 2 alkaline AAs. The light turned on but was very dim. Right after I quickly flipped through the different modes, it suddenly turned off and would not turn on again. I took the contact spring off and popped the drop-in back into my CL1H host. Clicked and no light !
> 
> Is it possible I've experienced a short and my drop-in is now useless?



I don't know, but I hope [was: nope] not. I've seen one brand that cautions, "not protected against cells that are inserted the wrong way." Since I own only Dereelight and Malkoff, I'm guessing it was one of these two brands.


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## Swedpat (May 26, 2010)

Yesterday I measured the runtime at the highest mode of L2i with freshly charged GP NiMh 1000 mAh cells. The output was practically stable and the true drop occured after ca 45 minutes. That should mean using Eneloops the regulated runtime would be around 36minutes? My calculation is: 45(800/1000)=36

Regards, Patric


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## Midnight Oil (May 27, 2010)

Thanks for the responses guys.

It turned out my drop-in did short out. I sent it back to Dave for repairs and I just got it back today.

It works in my CL1H V4 host but it still does NOT work in my L2r. I don't think there is anyting wrong with the L2r, because I have an 8 degree optic drop-in, also from Dave, which does work in the L2r.

The 8 degree drop-in is about 3/16" (CORRECTION 1/8") shorter than the XP-G drop-in, measured from the top of the reflector to the bottom of the pill. But that minor difference can't be the problem, right?

Anyways, another question. Inside the head of my L2r, there is a ridge about 1/8" below the bottom of the lens. This ridge basically stops the rim of the reflector from hitting the lens, leaving a gap between the reflector and the bottom of the lens. Is this consistent with everyone's samples?

I'm asking because my 8 degree optic won't sit securely in the module and moves around in the gap.

Thanks again.


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## Midnight Oil (May 28, 2010)

It happened again!!!!!!!!!!!!

My newly repaired module is fried once again in my L2r. Stupid! Stupid! Stupid! 

Gone! With a flash and a wisp of smoke.

It was a XP-G R3, rated at 1-4.2V. Because it had a buck/boost driver, there were exposed circuits on the bottom. I think the module was also 3/16" or so longer than the typcial p60 module. In fact, a piece of extra spring had to be solder onto the center spring.

Well it only took 40 bucks and ending up with no drop-in for me to conclude what must have happened, again! Those exposed circuits must have come into contact with the bottom of the head socket. I think this is the case because afterwards, when I popped in the drop-in, without the outer spring, and screwed on the head, which did not go all the way down, the drop-in was snug and didn't rattle. Even when I loosend the head slightly, it still didn't rattle.

I notice that most retail drop-ins have a "cover" on the bottom. Is this cover an insulator of some sort to prevent exaclty what has happened to my drop-in?

Boy this is an expensive lesson.


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## kosPap (May 28, 2010)

Twice? then you deserve this greek saying
To Dis Amartein ouk Andros Sofou (faulting twice does not show a wise man)



Midnight Oil said:


> I notice that most retail drop-ins have a "cover" on the bottom. Is this cover an insulator of some sort to prevent exaclty what has happened to my drop-in?


 
Huh??? What insulator? any reference, links????

BTW yor L2R is exactly like any else


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## Midnight Oil (May 28, 2010)

First time was, "Hmm, maybe it was my fault, removing the drop-in without first removing the battery."

Now I'm comfortable concluding that it is an inherent incompatibility between drop-in and host. My nailbender drop-in, with the exposed circuits on the bottom, because I requested a buck/boost driver, is just too long. The base of the drop-in actually sits on the bottom of the socket of my L2r, whereas in my CL1H V4, the pill is supported by a "collar," which makes contact with the *sides* of the pill.

As for deserving this, what!? For first giving the benefit of the doubt to Solarforce and Dave?

You need to think about that.

Here are several pics of the drop-in.




















Here is the drop-in the the CL1H head. Notice how the drop-in is supported along the bottom *edge* and no part of the exposed circuitry is in contact with the body.







Here is the drop-in inside the L2r head. Notice how the exposed circuitry is making contact with the body; part of it is actually sticking into the battery tube, and the head still doesn't screw all the way down.


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## mrcandyman (May 29, 2010)

I'm not exactly sure how that's Solarforce's fault. Seems like a Nailbender issue personally. The Solarforce dropins have no exposed circuitry on the bottom.

Shouldn't there be an outer spring on that dropin? Or do the nailbenders not have that?


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## Midnight Oil (May 29, 2010)

Candyman,

There is no element of finger-pointing in my post.

I said, "...it is an inherent incompatibility between drop-in and host."

NO ONE is at fault.

I might be the only person so far who has tried putting a NB module with a buck/boost driver into a L2r host. It just so happens the buck/boost module is built that way and it doesn't seem to work in this particular host. No one could have forseen this.

From my experience, the external spring does not prevent the bottom of the module from hitting the body because the module sits tight even without the external spring installed. It doesn't rattle. The head actually doesn't screw all the way down. There is a gap of about 1/8" (CORRECTION 1 mm). Nevertheless, it completely squashes the external spring. 

"To reiterate, I believe the exposed circuits is unique to NB's 5-mode buck/boost driver. His other drivers probably all have a "cover" on the bottom and I'll be getting one of those drivers when I send in my drop-in for repairs. I'll provide an update when I get it back."

*(Edit)* 
NB wrote back to me explaining that only his *multi-mode boost drivers* have circuits on both sides of the board, most notable being the large inductor. Again, my particular module didn't work in the L2r, but that is not to say it wouldn't have worked in other AA hosts, like the Javelin, whose body widens to meet the head, which leads me to speculate that it houses the module the same way the CL1H does. I will send the short drop-in back to NB, this time fitted with a 1-mode boost driver, making it a dedicated AA light. I hope this will solve the problem.


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## mrcandyman (May 29, 2010)

Well, it's good to know and I'm certain that information will help some people. Is the head section shorter on the i and r models of the l2 than it is on the others or is the nailbender a longer dropin than stock? I only have my L2M with solarforce dropins to compare with, but those give about 5mm at the back end with the head fully screwed in. Please do keep us updated


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## Midnight Oil (May 29, 2010)

From the top of the reflector to the bottom of the exposed circuit, my drop-in measures 30mm (CORRECTION 31 mm).

My NB XRE-R2 with optics, which also had the exposed circuits, did work in the L2r. I measured it to be about 1/8" shorter than the XPG-R3 that shorted out. 

The Solarforce heads have a ridge that stops the reflector short of the lens. I think if the ridge were not there, the R3 drop-in would have worked. It's just a matter of keeping the bottom of the drop-in off of the bottom of the socket.

Now my question is, for drop-ins that don't have exposed circuits on the bottom of the pill, if any part of the flat bottom, aside from the center spring, comes into contact with the body of the host, like in the case of the L2r, will that still cause a short?

If it still does, then I should be looking for a shorter drop-in instead.


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## mrcandyman (May 29, 2010)

I just looked at the head of my ultrafire l2 and it has the same lip (just for those keeping watch about this problem)

Yes, causing a false ground part way through a circuit can definitely cause a short like this. It sucks that it had to happen because 1/8" is not a big difference at all.


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## kosPap (May 31, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> Now my question is, for drop-ins that don't have exposed circuits on the bottom of the pill, if any part of the flat bottom, aside from the center spring, comes into contact with the body of the host, like in the case of the L2r, will that still cause a short?
> 
> If it still does, then I should be looking for a shorter drop-in instead.


 

The dropin casing, and outer spring is NEG, the outer copper ring on the board is NEG too....the colored PCB wafer is an insulator...then you have the central POS ring that the inner spring is soldered to...

why don't you make a ring out o copper pipe or 2mm solid copper wire to put in the socket first then the module?...then the module/pill rim will pest on it and will create some space for th exposed electronics....

simpe enough workaround....


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## mrcandyman (May 31, 2010)

That would be, BUT he has a small problem. He's already not able to screw in all the way. Adding more in there would just make that worse. The nailbender he's using is already much longer than a standard dropin apparently.


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## Midnight Oil (May 31, 2010)

mrcandyman and kosPap,

I did think about lining the bottom of the head with a thin layer of insulating material first and then drop in the module. Never tested it out though.

NB will replace the shorted driver with a 1-mode boost driver that doesn't have the exposed circuits. I think that will solve the problem. With the decrease in length, the outer spring will be able to elevate the drop-in above the bottom of the socket.

candyman, I'm sorry if I've misled you with my previous description. The actual reflector plus pill length is not that much longer than other drop-ins, only +2mm, according to NB, and he doesn't believe that should cause any problems. It's the protruding circuitry that effectively makes the drop-in longer.

I think the new replacement driver will allow me to screw the head all the way down.

You know what, I just remember something. With the head screwed down, leaving the 1/8" gap (CORRECTION: 1 mm gap), the light actually didn't turn on. It wasn't until I clicked it off, unscrewed the head just a bit, clicked it on again, that the drop in shorted out. Shouldn't unscrewing the head a bit cause the bottom of the drop-in to break contact with the bottom of the socket?

What if the top of the battery other than the button come into contact with the body. Any problems there?


Thanks guys.


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## Midnight Oil (Jun 22, 2010)

Update:

It turns out all of NB's boost drivers have circuits on both sides of the board, so no more NB modules for my L2r.

Just got my L2r back from Lighthound. Well, Solarforce drop-ins work in it, and that's good enough for me. So it seems nothing is wrong with the host itself, just compatibility issues.


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## kosPap (Jun 22, 2010)

Midnight Oil said:


> You know what, I just remember something. With the head screwed down, leaving the 1/8" gap (CORRECTION: 1 mm gap), the light actually didn't turn on. It wasn't until I clicked it off, unscrewed the head just a bit, clicked it on again, that the drop in shorted out. Shouldn't unscrewing the head a bit cause the bottom of the drop-in to break contact with the bottom of the socket?
> 
> What if the top of the battery other than the button come into contact with the body. Any problems there?
> .


 
I had many istances like these with the WF-502..I believe that the central spring twisting might be the problem...


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## LV426 (Jun 22, 2010)

LV426 said:


> Sorry to hi-jack this excellent thread!
> Any idea on swapping the reverse switch on the L2R to a fwd (no soldering)?
> I've used some "Romisens" on my 3 L2/L2Ps...



Well... Did it my self on a light for a good friend.

The ø on the Romisen fwd-switch is the same as the inner ø in the tail-cap - but of course, not the same threading!

After some file-work the threads on the switch were removed, and it could be mounted with some Nyogel and aluminium foil.

Beware: the plastic retaining ring is but a joke... So don't over stress it.


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## kosPap (Jul 22, 2010)

I have doena mod on the originalsswicth pcb with a KD switch. tricky but it can be done....it is used by a cop and had no complaints yet...

that damn palstic ring is glued too!


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## pae77 (Jul 25, 2010)

I just received a Solarforce L2R gun metal host I purchased on "sale" from ITC shop for a very reasonable $9.85 shipped. It arrived in perfect condition about 10 days after I paid for it. 

I must say, I'm very impressed with the overall quality, color, fit and finish. This thing is just beautiful! It looks and feels almost like stainless steel.

I only have one drop in at the moment so I pulled it out from my L2P (it's the Solarforce 0.8-4.2 low voltage R2, 3 mode) and fired it up in the L2R powered by 2 Eneloop AA's. Once again, I'm very impressed with the quality look and feel and the performance of this light, especially at the total price of only ~$24 (including both the 3 mode LV drop in and the L2R host). 

My intention is to use this light with the Solarforce 3 mode drop in and the Solarforce lantern attachment because at any given moment I usually have at least a dozen or more AA Eneloops sitting around ready to go, so I expect it will be very nice to have for extended room lighting in power outage situations with the lantern attachment and my many Eneloops.

Looking forward to nightfall when I can really see how it performs. And, of course, I'm looking forward to eventually getting some more really nice drop ins for my L2P which is now needing a module.


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## Monocrom (Jul 25, 2010)

Very detailed review.


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## Swedpat (Jun 25, 2011)

I really like my two Solarforce L2r:s. Both of them are armed with each Malkoff M31 dropin: the Gun Metal with an M31LL and the Black with an M31W. What I know L2r is the only Solarforce host which works with Malkoff dropins without modification. 
The Gun metal with M31LL I use as a working light. 60 lumens is more than enough for allround use and it runs 5+ hours stable output with alkalines(after ca 100lm initial output dropping to 60lm during the first 20min).
The Black L2r I intended for use with NiMH or lithiums. I measured 70min constant output(ca 200lm) with Sanyo Eneloops. 
The great knurling is one of the best with these Solarforce hosts. Feels good even with gloves on.

Regards, Patric


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