# What to do with older Maglites: 4D and 2C?



## mjgillen (Dec 22, 2017)

Hi guys!

I have a couple of older Maglites:

4D serial number D4006622974
2C serial number 22327634

The 4D is under the bed next to the baseball bat.
The 2C is in the kitchen utility drawer.

Both are surprisingly in like new condition. I just replaced the batteries.

Looking for recommendations from the Group: Mod them? Leave them as is? Sell them? Other?

They are fine as they are, they serve no special purpose right now.

Also, I recently bought a new ML50L LCD light that I really like.

Thanks!
Michael


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## archimedes (Dec 22, 2017)

Hello and welcome to CPF 

Your post above has been approved (in very lightly edited form)

Please note that on CPF, we focus primarily on the use of flashlights as illumination tools, thanks


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## LeanBurn (Dec 22, 2017)

You could anything you want with these. Mild to heavily modify them, or leave them as stock as a conversation piece. Someone will pipe in and let you know its approximate value (if it is old enough).

My 2D I left as stock and put a glass lens to make the most of its hot wire lumens and perfect color rendition abilities. I bring it out every once in a while but it is mostly a bit of memorabilia from a time where it was 'the professional grade flashlight.'

My other lights are much more portable and efficient so they see all the day to day action.


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## terryoregon (Dec 22, 2017)

Five possible upgrades reviewed by _Adventure Sports Flashlights _(the owner is a well-known member of CPF):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NK7NbWqvB-k


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## mjgillen (Dec 22, 2017)

Thanks for all the advice!

terryoregon thanks for the link! Lots if choices and price ranges to upgrade...

Michael





terryoregon said:


> Five possible upgrades reviewed by _Adventure Sports Flashlights _(the owner is a well-known member of CPF):
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NK7NbWqvB-k


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## vicv (Dec 23, 2017)

With the 2c I'd mod it to take 2x18650s or if you want to keep it original 2x18500s and slap in a 5 cell mag bulb. Will jump from 30 lumens up to ~170ish and be very white in colour. I've done this and it's fantastic. Just need a piece of 1" pvc pipe cut to the correct length. If going to 18650s for more runtime you'll need to remove tailcap spring and remove anodising from tailcap and make a small coil of wire for continuity. For the 4d you could make a real rocket. Metal reflector, glass lens, g6.35 socket ,4x26650 plus spacer to make cells fit width wise and a 12v 50w bulb. Would be 3000+ lumens. Or an osram 64623 from fivemega would give 5000+ lumens. So many possibilities


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## LiftdT4R (Dec 23, 2017)

I vote leave them stock and use them! I think that might be an unpopular opinion but I use my bone stock well worn 2D all the time around the house. I love slinging it under my arm when I go out for firewood or just looking around late at night without blinding myself. The 4D may not be as useful because of it's size so I'd say go with the big Malkoff XM-L drop in and some Tenergy Centuras for one awesome 700 lumen light. Tons of throw and tons of spill, best of both worlds!


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## bykfixer (Dec 24, 2017)

Makes a great tree topper....


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## vicv (Dec 24, 2017)

That's a good point. Trying to gather firewood with my 3c under my arm the other night I was blinding myself with the 5c bulb. Too white and bright.


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## mjgillen (Dec 26, 2017)

You guys are funny!

I ended up getting two of the Nite Ize LED upgrade (55 lumens) for $5 each at Home Depot. My 4D is super bright. Really impressed. The 2C not so much as the 4D but still a LOT better than the stock bulb.

Thanks for all the replies and info. Still a lot to learn... 

Michael


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## vicv (Dec 26, 2017)

What is so funny? You are in the Incan section so we were giving you advice on Incan upgrades


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## mjgillen (Dec 27, 2017)

vicv said:


> What is so funny? You are in the Incan section so we were giving you advice on Incan upgrades



The flashlight on the Christmas tree!


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## TinderBox (UK) (Dec 27, 2017)

I bought two 2C flashlight i got shipped from the US and i never ever used them, I hated the feel of the soft spongy power button, nothing like the stiff ones on my 2D, 3D, or 6D is it a C problem, this is 8 or so years.

John.


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## vicv (Dec 27, 2017)

I have a 90s era 3c and yes a very spongy button which needs to be pressed quite far too click on. Hard to do in gloves


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## bykfixer (Dec 27, 2017)

I found those C sized "heavy duty" versions to feel "not heavy duty" and the switch was definitely more noticeably squishy. Don't know the vintage, just that they were ones with krypton bulbs and listed as being in "display box", which is the cardboard boxed type not blister pack. 
I hadn't really considered the glove thing but that does make sense.

The one(s) I bought with a bi-pin bulb had a normal feel to the switch button though still noteably softer than those of the D sized lights.

Now for a 2C I used a bi-pin adapter in a light that came with a krypton bulb. I used a length of 75mm black pvc gas pipe since it is thin walled and a 3 foot stick is 99¢ at Home Depot. (I carried a spent C battery to the store and used it as a template to ensure the thing would fit inside the barrel.) I went to the solar lighting section and picked up a 4 pack of 18500 LifePo4's. ($20 iirc) Then from a stock pile of 4, 5 and 6 cell bi-pins from a previous project I set about choosing a bulb. Starting with the 6 cell I worked my way down to the 4 cell and stuck with that. 6 cell was not bright at all. The 5 cell was pretty good but the 4 was amazing and didn't poof. 

Later I cut off about 1-1/3 coils from the spring for a much easier re-assembly. I chose that length as it served the purpose and still worked with C cells. Idea being a reversable modification. 

A pair of pliers bent the tip of the spring to factory shape and filed down the end to remove any rough edges. 
It puts out a nice beam with about 150 or so lumens.

A similar rig can be done with a 3C using LifePo4 18650's.


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## TinderBox (UK) (Dec 27, 2017)

I bought a couple of led PR style drop-in to replace the krypton bulbs years ago, they were called Everled only 1watt but worked with 1-6cells, they were like £24 each at the time.

A year ago i bought a few 3-18v pr drop-in at like £3 each and they work well, out came my 3D Mag as they dont work in my 2D as the voltage is too low.

John.


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## TinderBox (UK) (Dec 27, 2017)

So i posted a photo on my 2x 3C below, the serials are 25119148 and 25116599

Anybody know how only these are?

https://i.imgur.com/uVh0F0m.jpg

Thanks.

John.


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## Timothybil (Dec 27, 2017)

Stuff them and mount them over the fireplace? :devil:


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## InvisibleFrodo (Dec 27, 2017)

I've had several 3D maglites ruined by leaking cells. The last time it happened I just swore I would never do another D cell light and I really haven't. Maybe it's just been my experience, but it seems like D cells are much more likely to leak compared to AAs and AAAs. Whatever you do, if you keep alkaline cells in there, check on them on some kind of schedule to ensure you don't have a leak.


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## vicv (Dec 27, 2017)

That's why I don't use alkalines


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## TinderBox (UK) (Dec 27, 2017)

I always thought about wrapping the entire number of cells in shrink wrap, a small hole at either end for conductivity, would this make any difference?

John.


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## Timothybil (Dec 27, 2017)

TinderBox (UK) said:


> I always thought about wrapping the entire number of cells in shrink wrap, a small hole at either end for conductivity, would this make any difference?
> John.


Probably not. Even if you sealed the seam on the shrink wrap, you would still have two holes, one at each end. From the pattern left when some alkalines failed in my EA4, the leakage will flow wherever it can. It will find at least one of the holes, and if there is any out gassing associated with the leak, that will make sure that some makes it outside the wrap. Just avoid the hassle and use Eneloops or lithium primaries. One can find three AA to C adapters that would cut down on the expenses of using Eneloops considerably while still giving a decent run time.


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## vicv (Dec 28, 2017)

Timothybil said:


> Probably not. Even if you sealed the seam on the shrink wrap, you would still have two holes, one at each end. From the pattern left when some alkalines failed in my EA4, the leakage will flow wherever it can. It will find at least one of the holes, and if there is any out gassing associated with the leak, that will make sure that some makes it outside the wrap. Just avoid the hassle and use Eneloops or lithium primaries. One can find three AA to C adapters that would cut down on the expenses of using Eneloops considerably while still giving a decent run time.



You can get 3xaa to D adaptors but not for C's. Maybe 2xaaa. Personally I've never really cared for this idea though as nickel based cells really shouldn't be run in parallel. Centura c and d nimhs are very good though as are imedions and will give much longer runtime and nice flat discharge curve


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## bykfixer (Dec 28, 2017)

Imedions are the SHIZZLE.
(ie; really good batteries)


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## vicv (Dec 28, 2017)

I have a dozen of their aa's. Had them over 6 years and many cycles. Still under 100momh each and 2200+ mah


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## fivemega (Jan 9, 2018)

*2C M*g asking for 2x18650 system running many different type of bulb from low output to higher.
This kit will run with 3 protected 26650 cells in 4D M*g.
It is also possible to use with any D26 or D36 drop in either LED or incand as long as voltage matches.
Genuine P60 incand will work fine and run long using 4 NiMH (4.8V) D cells. (Whiter and brighter)
Some LED modules will work with 3.7~6 volts which is within range of 4 NiMH D cells.*


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## vicv (Jan 9, 2018)

That's neat. How does one out d26 and d36 modules in a mag head?


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## fivemega (Jan 9, 2018)

vicv said:


> How does one out d26 and d36 modules in a mag head?


*D26 will barely fit without extender but D36 will need head extender. (Comes with kit)
Kit also includes center positive and brass negative contacts. Pressure of D26 or D36 springs will hold lamp module in place.*


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