# Armytek Wizard/Pro Thread



## soul347 (Jan 26, 2015)

Hi everyone I thought I'd start an Armytek Wizard/Pro thread for current owners and potential buyers. This can be a place to discuss our experience with the light, uses,questions, etc.

Let me start off this thread by sharing what I like about the light and what I think can be improved, just in case this might help a potential buyer. My review is a bit long, so skip to the part that you are interested in. My main point of comparison is my only other headlamp, a Petzl Tikka Plus 2:

*What I like:*
*TINT*: The thing I immediately noticed is 4000k Neutral White tint. My flashlights have all been cool white. For a headlamp, I don't think I can ever use a cool white tint after using this one. IMO the neutral/warm tint is perfect, not too yellow, and not too white, but spot on. It creates a psychologically warmer/positive atmosphere and is especially nice when I point the headlamp toward the ceiling.Cool white lights tend to give a more cold and eerie atmosphere. 

*BEAM PATTERN*: I think Armytek struck the right balance between flood and focus. There is no defined hot spot, a good work area is nicely covered and it is not harsh on the eyes. At the same time it isn't overly floody to the point of having no throw,so I can see a good distance even on the lower settings. I often use the wizard for reading, and the light covers the entire reading area with main mode 1 (47lm) perfect for this use. My Petzl Tikka Plus 2 was terrible for reading because of the hot spot and not having just the right output mode.

*CONSTANT BRIGHTNESS*: I tested the light on a full battery all the way to almost empty, and each setting looked exactly the same from beginning to end. This is especially important to me because when I read, I want to ensure that the output mode I use is the same every time. My Tikka Plus 2 got really dim quite fast on the highest setting. When the battery can't handle the higher modes, it blinks 3 times and lowers the output. In such a case I just avoid using those higher modes and use the lower ones instead. I prefer this over the light just automatically dimming for me. 

*HEADBAND*: High quality, attractive, soft and comfortable on the forehead even after extended use (your head may vary ) and the silicon holder allows for a complete 360 rotation without any annoying clicking. This is important because I find that there are numerous scenarios where being able to point the light precisely where I want is essential. I often like pointing the light toward the ceiling to create a nice ambient light while walking around the house, or pointing down so I don't blind the person in front of me, etc. I find this far superior to lights such as my tikka plus 2 that have a limited range and have predefined click positions to angle the light, which greatly limits the usefulness of the light. I prefer using the headband without the top piece because I find it just as comfortable, doesn't mess up my hair, and I can wear the light around my neck. Some have complained that the silicon holder breaks easily. I've removed the light 3-4 times without removing the tail cap, and the holder has no signs of tearing. I think you just have to be careful and use the right technique. 

*SWITCH/STATE INDICATION*: The single button used to switch modes also blinks while off every 4 seconds. This makes it extremely easy to find it beside my bed or in a bag without guessing. It also gives me confidence that the light is functioning and ready to go, or locked out through the tail cap. It also doubles as a battery state indicator that will start blinking yellow or red when the battery is going low, so you never have to guess. I also think it looks cool and makes the light feel that it is of a higher quality . Some have complained the switch is too stiff, but I honestly have zero problems using it, and it is probably preferable as the button wears over time. I also think the switch is placed in the perfect location, because you can easily press the button like you're pinching your fingers together, rather than pressing the button and pushing the light to the side of your head. Some have worried that the placement of the button is not good for if you want to point the light up to the ceiling, but I can say the button is still easily accessible while the light is pointed up.

*BUILD QUALITY*: This is my first Armytek light. Love the matte anodizing and black color. The steel bezel around the lens and button are also a nice touch. Honeycomb lens feels and looks solid and attractive. Threads in the tail cap feel silky smooth, stiff spring, with double O rings and evenly lubricated for added water resistance.The light overall just looks and feels really high quality and the 10 year warranty builds confidence in its durability with the company standing behind their products. 

*USER INTERFACE*: Within the first 5 minutes, I mastered and memorized the user interface. I could imagine this being challenging however if you own 50 different headlamps. The first 2 firefly modes are accessed while the light is off, which makes sense since you wouldn't want to cycle through brighter modes while trying to get to firefly. The highest output (1120 lm) is accessed by double clicking from any of the main modes and can be accessed momentary if desired.The 3 main modes are sandwiched in between and can easily be cycled through. I find it very logically to treat the firefly and turbo modes as special modes on either end. Overall I think it is intuitive and easy to grasp. I'll probably put easy detailed instructions on how to access each mode in a future post. 

*OUTPUTS/MODES*: I think the variety of outputs are well spread, not redundant and cover almost all use cases. The firefly modes are super low and very useful for night adjusted eyes. I probably have no use at all for the fast strobe on a headlamp,but I could imagine the slower strobe would be good for signaling/warning. I also love how you have a battery voltage reader that can give you the precise voltage reading by flashing the main LED. If ever I would add another mode, I'd probably want a 25lm mode.

*BATTERY LIFE*: Battery life is superb. I stress tested the light by using it 1-3 hours each day on various outputs from high to low. It lasted about a week doing this. For my normal use, I expect it to last far longer. I use a 3400mah Nitecore battery. 


*What can be improved:*

This isn't a complaint about the wizard pro itself, but I'm not really happy about the light taking forever to ship from China despite being called a Canadian company and having to pay for shipping if you don't meet the minimum purchase. I live in Canada, and I wait just as long as anyone else to get this light. I think it would really help the company if they found a way to ship from North America. 
Clearer and more accurate instructions in the manual are key. Poor English, hard to understand instructions, inaccurate information on the manual make the company look very unprofessional, despite the light being of a very high quality. Hope someone from Armytek is listening here.
My main complaint is that it is not an easy task to remove the light from the silicon holder. Aquick release function would make the light convenient to use as a handheld light with pocket clip. If they can add this feature without compromising the 360 rotation design, this light would easily become my EDC. 
Would be nice if it were a tad lighter. The light itself is feather light, but the battery adds a good amount of weight.
I love half pressing on my flashlights for momentary on. Wonder if there would be a suitable way to implement this on the Wizard. 

Overall I am very happy with this light and would recommend it in a heartbeat. I don't see myself buying any other headlamp in the future, except for maybe the Tiara C1.


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## kj2 (Jan 26, 2015)

I also have the Wizard Pro warm, and love the tint  I prefer CW tint for my flashlights, but for a headlamp I prefer that warmer tint. Have two ZL headlamps, but tend to grab my ArmyTek sooner. My ZL headlamps do come easier out of their silicon holders. If ArmyTek could make the tailcap slimmer, you could slide it right out of the holder. Manual could be simpler indeed. Quality is just superb!


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## soul347 (Jan 26, 2015)

kj2 said:


> I also have the Wizard Pro warm, and love the tint  I prefer CW tint for my flashlights, but for a headlamp I prefer that warmer tint. Have two ZL headlamps, but tend to grab my ArmyTek sooner. My ZL headlamps do come easier out of their silicon holders. If ArmyTek could make the tailcap slimmer, you could slide it right out of the holder. Manual could be simpler indeed. Quality is just superb!



I agree that I also prefer my handheld lights to be cool white. When it comes to headlamps, I prefer the neutral tint for working on things close range and for reading. I'd imagine that the High CRI versions are too warm for me.


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## CodyCash (Jan 26, 2015)

Im in love with the Wizard Pro as well! Mine is the XM-L2 "White Light" version. The tint is more white than the common CW that have a blue/green to them, infact when compared side by side with a Thrunite and Nitecore CW light the Wizard looks nearly all white by contrast. The lack of a defined hotspot also contributes to this. I find having the 2 firefly modes very useful and they have seen the most use indoors in complete darkness and the main modes are great for looking in dark areas like closets, behind the dryer, and so on. Im still breaking this one in but so far so good!


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## kirkstick (Jan 26, 2015)

I am an owner of an Armytek Wizard Pro. This is my 4th light from Armytek. I have been very happy with my previous purchases (Barracuda, Predator Pro, and Viking Pro), and the Wizard Pro has kept that feeling alive! I like the constant full output that Armytek uses for their lights. They seem to take abuse rather well; and they seem to be efficient in their battery consumption. 

I use the Wizard Pro daily while doing foot patrols. It is comfortable to wear and has been very dependable. My only complaint about it has been trying to get it to decipher the owner's manual to access the tactical mode. I just can't see to get that right! 

I would echo the complaint about a Canadian company's products coming in from China :sigh:, but the quality seems to be good  so maybe this isn't a problem (other than world economy issues...:sick2.

My biggest gripe with Armytek is that they've been teasing me with promises of their Grizzly light coming out soon for about a year now!!! Other than that, they seem to make quality lights that do what I want, when I want them to!


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## soul347 (Jan 26, 2015)

kirkstick said:


> I use the Wizard Pro daily while doing foot patrols. It is comfortable to wear and has been very dependable. My only complaint about it has been trying to get it to decipher the owner's manual to access the tactical mode. I just can't see to get that right!



Do you have the latest wizard pro? Sandra from Armytek informed me that the tactical mode only existed for the Wizard Pro v1.0 but not on v1.5. Yet the manual for v1.5 clearly states that there is a tactical mode, so that creates a lot of confusion and hence my frustration with the inaccurate information they put in the manual. In any case, I think the tactical mode seemed very tedious to access, making it very useless for "tactical" situations. For those situations, I turn to my handheld flashlights that have strobe and momentary on. I see a headlamp as an every day utility device rather than a tactical one.


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## Led Astray (Jan 26, 2015)

Hi all,
I have a Wizard pro Warm and am a big fan, love the UI, beam, tint, ergonomics etc. Except that on a recent trip to Norway it started to misbehave in the cold (-10 C or so), with the button flashing red and the light blinking. It did this when I changed the battery, and when I kept it warm before exposing it to the cold.
This is somewhat disappointing as I have had no issues in warmer climes and it is a firm favourite. 

I have had it for 6 months or so, I believe it to be from the batch following the initial run that had some issues. Has anyone else had similar issues?


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## kj2 (Jan 27, 2015)

I've a Wizard Pro warm V1.5 and mine does have that tactical mode. Need to press to have light, release switch and it goes Off. Not something I need.


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## CodyCash (Jan 27, 2015)

The tactical mode isn't very useful, or "tactical". Just turns your switch to momentary.


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## soul347 (Jan 27, 2015)

Well I'm kicking myself right now because apparently the Wizard, Wizard Pro, Tiara version 2 just came out a few minutes ago. I wish they had told me so I would of held off a bit longer. Guess they wanted to clear out their old inventory. 

As far as I can see here are the main improvements to the wizard pro:

Removable magnet in tail clip
Comes with "strong lanyard"
Further beam distance - from 70-105m (warm version). Not sure how they did this since the Lumen output appears to be slightly lower, and the beam angle is exactly the same as the old version.
Modified output modes: 975 lm (1h 6min), 390 lm (3h 30min), 185 lm (8h 30min), 32 lm (48h), 14 lm (72h), 1.8 lm (18d), 0.2 (100d)
 Compared to v1.5: 1120(1h), 465lm (3h), 230lm (7h), 47lm (30h), 6lm (9d), 0.4lm (100d)
So in short, all the modes are slightly lower probably to improve run times. Also they lowered both fire fly modes and added a 14lm.


Let me know if anyone spots any other changes. The changes are subtle but I like them. They aren't big enough to make me want to upgrade though. The Tiara however I might want to get since I don't have it yet and could use something smaller/lighter


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## D6859 (Jan 27, 2015)

soul347 said:


> Well I'm kicking myself right now because apparently the Wizard, Wizard Pro, Tiara version 2 just came out a few minutes ago. I wish they had told me so I would of held off a bit longer. Guess they wanted to clear out their old inventory.
> 
> As far as I can see here are the main improvements to the wizard pro:
> 
> ...



Sorry I forgot to mention you v2 was coming out  I knew it was coming when I made my order for v1.5 but I got suchs a good offer I'm ok with having that ancient version. I'm quite sure I have v1.5 and it has a tactical mode. I find it useless though. As we discussed in another thread turning on/off the tactical mode or state indicator is quite complex. One site I found with quick googleing claims v2 has a lighter body but I didn't notice difference. Not sure if I have right data. The 14 lm mode is a nice addition.


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## soul347 (Jan 27, 2015)

kj2 said:


> I've a Wizard Pro warm V1.5 and mine does have that tactical mode. Need to press to have light, release switch and it goes Off. Not something I need.



How exactly do you access this mode? The instructions in the manual don't work


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## kj2 (Jan 28, 2015)

soul347 said:


> How exactly do you access this mode? The instructions in the manual don't work



While Off, twist the tailcap 1/4 loosen, press and hold the switch, tighten the tailcap back while holding the switch.


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## s013202 (Jan 28, 2015)

soul347 said:


> Well I'm kicking myself right now because apparently the Wizard, Wizard Pro, Tiara version 2 just came out a few minutes ago. I wish they had told me so I would of held off a bit longer. Guess they wanted to clear out their old inventory.
> 
> As far as I can see here are the main improvements to the wizard pro:
> 
> ...


1.Beam distance is the same as v1.5,Armytek just sad they did more exact measurements to get the right data.
2.Only 14lm is a new added output level,others differ just because Armytek replaced LED lumen with OTF lumen,which means more accurate.
3.UI has many changes which I think is improved,Indication of battery voltage is canceled.
(You can download the manual on Armytek website to see more in detail.)
4.Head shape & lettering is slightly changed. 
5.Hand band is included.(mentioned in manual)


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## kj2 (Jan 28, 2015)

Hand band?


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## cagenuts (Jan 28, 2015)

kj2 said:


> Hand band?



Yes, it plays a jingle when you turn the light on.


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## RedForest UK (Jan 29, 2015)

I just got my replacement Wizard v2 (non-pro) Warm in the post today. The mode spacing is good now with a clear difference between all modes, unlike my v1 version, the overall electronics seem all to be working correctly now too so the main issues from before are now sorted.

My estimated OTF output measurements are: 3/30/180/390/870 lumens.

There are a few downsides to this new version though in my opinion.

1. I don't like the look of the new head design. I think the thinness of the head looks a bit weird compared to the thicker top of the body tube and much preferred the older design, which should also offer more thermal mass, though at the cost of slightly more weight as well.

2. The button is a softer, and less tactile/audible click than before. This may be a plus for many who complained about how hard the old switch was, but I liked it that way. Still I'll get used to it.

3. The tint, while neutral, is very much on the yellow/green side. This is very evident compared to my v1 tiara and now even makes my SC52w (my most yellow-green tinted previous light) look like a well-balanced tint.


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## soul347 (Jan 30, 2015)

So the tint is changed from the v1.5 warm? I really love the tint of my wizard pro. If they changed it that would be a big shame because I think they got it perfect.


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## RedForest UK (Jan 30, 2015)

I think there will be natural variation. The tint on my Tiara A1 I find practically perfect; that's just a touch cooler than 5A tint, maybe a 4D tint. My V1.5 Wizard was slightly yellower (less red), I'd put it as a 4C or 4B.

My new V2 Wizard is quite dramatically more green/yellow tinted than either of the previous two though, I would guess at 4S or 4T bin. Though there may well be quite a bit of individual variation within each run so you'll have to wait on more reports before drawing any firm conclusions.

In fact, the Wizard warm shown in the OP seems to be a V2 from the head design and tint is listed as a positive point.


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## nihilistnarwhal (Jan 30, 2015)

Got my NW v2 from illumn this week. The tint seems perfect, and makes my Fenix BC30 look inconsistent and a bit cool in comparison. The anodization doesn't seem as resilient as I was expecting from reading reviews. I've managed to put some scratches on the tail cap somehow already. The pocket clip scratches aren't so bad, except for the little nub under the circle, which really digs in. The gap for the lanyard circle seems perfect for a long enough clip, easy to remove by just unscrewing the magnet compartment.

Is it possible to turn off state indicator flashes completely, or just for off/firefly 1 mode? 

Lastly, I have foolishly selected CR123A or RCR123 when I have only 18650s, and locked myself out. The indicator light works, but I can't switch battery types. Any ideas or do I need to give up go buy some other batteries? Seems odd to make it possible to lock yourself out of the flashlight with the wrong clicks, but maybe it's necessary for some reason or it didn't occur to them that anyone would be so foolish.


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## SubLGT (Jan 31, 2015)

soul347 said:


> My main complaint is that it is not an easy task to remove the light from the silicon holder. Aquick release function would make the light convenient to use as a handheld light with pocket clip. If they can add this feature without compromising the 360 rotation design, this light would easily become my EDC…………………….



A quick release function would be a great feature. I would buy another Wizard _only_ if it had that feature, _and_ if they stopped using the ridiculously stiff switch. Only a 180lb orangutan, with its tremendous hand strength, can love the Wizard switch.


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## blah9 (Jan 31, 2015)

Led Astray said:


> Hi all,
> I have a Wizard pro Warm and am a big fan, love the UI, beam, tint, ergonomics etc. Except that on a recent trip to Norway it started to misbehave in the cold (-10 C or so), with the button flashing red and the light blinking. It did this when I changed the battery, and when I kept it warm before exposing it to the cold.
> This is somewhat disappointing as I have had no issues in warmer climes and it is a firm favourite.
> 
> I have had it for 6 months or so, I believe it to be from the batch following the initial run that had some issues. Has anyone else had similar issues?



Yes, I have some trouble in the cold as well. At around freezing or a little bit colder my light also blinks sometimes. It usually seems to do it when I first go to a new mode or first put in the batteries, and then I seem to be able to leave it in that mode for a while without much trouble. Maybe it will blink once in a while again on me after that, but it's not all the time. I usually just leave it set to whatever mode I want at that point and then just keep walking (I often use it for hiking/camping lately), and then it doesn't bother me too much. I guess the voltage sags in the cold?

I'm a huge fan of the tint and beam characteristics as well (I also have the Warm), so I am not too disappointed. It hasn't failed on me or anything like that in the cold so far. It can be annoying to see where you're going if you're in the middle of scrambling down some rocks when it starts to blink though.


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## Led Astray (Feb 1, 2015)

thanks for the feedback blah9. It isn't a showstopper for me either, I doubt I will get down to those sort of temperatures again and I have alternatives that work just fine. I didn't really try too many options to see if the problem got worse or disappeared - I seem to remember that it stopped blinking one one occasion and started again on another, but I was busy trying to see the northern lights at the time so didn't pay too much attention. 

It may be the voltage sags but I tried with a warm light & battery with the same result, and with no such problem with my SC600. Possibly the temperature sensor is not well calibrated for lower temperatures. Anyway, in normal everyday use I have no such issues.

Glad to hear I'm not the only one to experience this and that it hasn't failed on you.


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## blah9 (Feb 1, 2015)

Do your other alternatives also take an 18650? I'm just curious.

And that's a good point about the temperature sensor maybe not being calibrated properly. Maybe that is what's going on. In my case sometimes I take the headlamp out of my jacket and other times I leave it on my head before turning it on, so I'm not sure in which situations in particular the light has this behavior. But yes, I have used it many times out in the cold and it seems to hold up.

I think one time it did blink even more often when it was even colder, but again it held up just fine for the few hours I spent outside shoveling snow that time.


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## soul347 (Feb 1, 2015)

nihilistnarwhal said:


> Is it possible to turn off state indicator flashes completely, or just for off/firefly 1 mode?
> 
> Lastly, I have foolishly selected CR123A or RCR123 when I have only 18650s, and locked myself out. The indicator light works, but I can't switch battery types. Any ideas or do I need to give up go buy some other batteries? Seems odd to make it possible to lock yourself out of the flashlight with the wrong clicks, but maybe it's necessary for some reason or it didn't occur to them that anyone would be so foolish.



It's quite easy to turn off the state indicator:

While light is off, unscrew the tailcap by 1/4
Press and hold the button
While the button is pressed, tighten the tail cap again
Unscrew the tailcap again by 1/4, ensuring you are still holding down the button.
Repeat steps to turn it back on

Also you can change your battery selection anytime. The light should work perfectly fine even if you have indicated the wrong kind of battery. But the battery state indicator will probably be inaccurate in telling you the correct voltage of your battery. Follow the instructions in your manual on how to select the correct battery type. I myself use 18650's and think it would make no sense to use anything else with this headlamp.


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## Beacon of Light (Feb 1, 2015)

In either this thread or another one, someone posted these exact same steps but it was for turning the tactical interface on/off. Which is it?



soul347 said:


> It's quite easy to turn off the state indicator:
> 
> While light is off, unscrew the tailcap by 1/4
> Press and hold the button
> ...


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## soul347 (Feb 1, 2015)

Beacon of Light said:


> In either this thread or another one, someone posted these exact same steps but it was for turning the tactical interface on/off. Which is it?



There is a slight difference. Omit step 4 in order to turn on tactical mode, and just unscrew the tail cap again to turn it off. Add step 4 to turn on/off state indicator.


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## nihilistnarwhal (Feb 1, 2015)

soul347 said:


> It's quite easy to turn off the state indicator:
> 
> While light is off, unscrew the tailcap by 1/4
> Press and hold the button
> ...



Sounds like I may have a faulty light then. After turning off the state indicator mine was still blinking every 5 seconds in Firefly 2/3, main and maximum modes, but not OFF or Firefly 1 mode. I could turn it back on and it would flash in all modes. After selecting RCR123 battery type, only my indicator light works (red) when I press the switch, and sometimes it blinks by itself. When tightening the tailcap sometimes the main LED will flash once, and sometimes the indicator may flash green or red with it. It seems to change when I press the switch different ways, but it's inconsistent in doing so. Another thing, when playing around with it working correctly it seemed to enter "tactical" mode without me unscrewing it, but it happened only twice and I was unable to replicate it.

4 different protected NCR18650B batteries, all charged and working fine in another light.


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## Led Astray (Feb 1, 2015)

blah9 said:


> Do your other alternatives also take an 18650? I'm just curious.
> 
> And that's a good point about the temperature sensor maybe not being calibrated properly. Maybe that is what's going on. In my case sometimes I take the headlamp out of my jacket and other times I leave it on my head before turning it on, so I'm not sure in which situations in particular the light has this behavior. But yes, I have used it many times out in the cold and it seems to hold up.
> 
> I think one time it did blink even more often when it was even colder, but again it held up just fine for the few hours I spent outside shoveling snow that time.



Yes, I took my full arsenal of 'good' lights. One was a Zebralight SC600 MKii (neutral, not overly keen on cool white) in which I have an unprotected Panasonic ncr18650b 3400mAh, which I swapped with the protected Olight 18650 3400 mAh which normally resides in the Wizard, and had the same issue. The Zebralight functioned perfectly in the cold with both batteries.

So that would seem to rule out the battery being the issue, and also negates the possibility of the protection circuit on the Olight battery being the cause. I started to think it could be voltage sag as you original mentioned, if the Wizard is overly sensitive to a small drop induced by the cold, but logically then it would show the same behaviour when the battery is partly depleted and I haven't had this. I am inclined to think it is the temperature sensor.

As an aside I think I read somewhere that NiMH batteries (i.e. Eneloops) are less affected by cold than other chemistries so I also took along a couple of lights powered by these which I handed out to my kids and they functioned perfectly too.


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## blah9 (Feb 1, 2015)

Led Astray said:


> Yes, I took my full arsenal of 'good' lights. One was a Zebralight SC600 MKii (neutral, not overly keen on cool white) in which I have an unprotected Panasonic ncr18650b 3400mAh, which I swapped with the protected Olight 18650 3400 mAh which normally resides in the Wizard, and had the same issue. The Zebralight functioned perfectly in the cold with both batteries.
> 
> So that would seem to rule out the battery being the issue, and also negates the possibility of the protection circuit on the Olight battery being the cause. I started to think it could be voltage sag as you original mentioned, if the Wizard is overly sensitive to a small drop induced by the cold, but logically then it would show the same behaviour when the battery is partly depleted and I haven't had this. I am inclined to think it is the temperature sensor.
> 
> As an aside I think I read somewhere that NiMH batteries (i.e. Eneloops) are less affected by cold than other chemistries so I also took along a couple of lights powered by these which I handed out to my kids and they functioned perfectly too.



Ah, thank you for all that information. I don't have any other headlamps that would be out in the cold like the Wizard (and wouldn't go back in my pocket to warm up like my handheld lights), so I had nothing to compare it with. I'm glad to hear that the batteries perform fine in that weather in other lights because I was afraid that they were the problem. 

Well, that is a disappointment about the Wizard then, but at least it does seem to keep functioning just fine. My wife's Armytek Tiara using an Eneloop seemed to work just fine the whole time without blinking now that I think about it, so that also follows your experience.


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## chadvone (Feb 2, 2015)

14 Lumen firefly is a fail to me. Long press from off= firefly. Press hold in firefly to change firefly , your hit with 14 lemens

Edit- I have no issues with the 14 lumen level in the firefly loop. Light cycles slow enough, I always have time to stop on lower level.


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## D6859 (Feb 3, 2015)

SubLGT said:


> A quick release function would be a great feature. I would buy another Wizard _only_ if it had that feature, _and_ if they stopped using the ridiculously stiff switch. Only a 180lb orangutan, with its tremendous hand strength, can love the Wizard switch.



Then I must be a 180lb orangutan (actually 170lb). But then again, I like climbing.


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## D6859 (Feb 3, 2015)

Led Astray said:


> Hi all,
> I have a Wizard pro Warm and am a big fan, love the UI, beam, tint, ergonomics etc. Except that on a recent trip to Norway it started to misbehave in the cold (-10 C or so), with the button flashing red and the light blinking. It did this when I changed the battery, and when I kept it warm before exposing it to the cold.



I have v1.5 (or so it was sold to me). I just returned from a skiing trip in northern Finland. I went 4 days with a single 18650 (3200 or 3400 mAh Keeppower). I had no problems using it in the cold (from -1 C to -12 C) and neither had my girlfriend using Tiara A1 powered by a single 14500 (900 mAh Keeppower or 800 mAh Eagtac).


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## Henrik (Feb 3, 2015)

I am looking at the Wizard Pro v.2 Warm to replace a BD ReVolt (the PWM and interface finally got to me) for Search & Rescue and have been trying to confirm whether the Wizard Pro is current controlled on all levels. ArmyTek customer service says all levels are current controlled, but I've seen posts here on CPF indicating the Wizard uses PWM at least in the Firefly modes. Can anyone confirm?
Of course the posts here about malfunction in the cold has me a bit concerned - that'd be a deal breaker.


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## soul347 (Feb 3, 2015)

chadvone said:


> 14 Lumen firefly is a fail to me. Long press from off= firefly. Press hold in firefly to change firefly , your hit with 14 lemens



Not sure what you're referring to here? The first firefly mode is 0.2 lumens. On my wizard pro, it is super dim you can barely see unless it is almost pitch black.


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## soul347 (Feb 3, 2015)

Henrik said:


> I am looking at the Wizard Pro v.2 Warm to replace a BD ReVolt (the PWM and interface finally got to me) for Search & Rescue and have been trying to confirm whether the Wizard Pro is current controlled on all levels. ArmyTek customer service says all levels are current controlled, but I've seen posts here on CPF indicating the Wizard uses PWM at least in the Firefly modes. Can anyone confirm?
> Of course the posts here about malfunction in the cold has me a bit concerned - that'd be a deal breaker.



I have no tools to measure this, but I can say with confidence that each mode looks exactly the same whether my battery is full or nearly empty. However when my battery is low, it no longer allows me to use the turbo mode and starts blinking to indicate that it will lower the output. I still have yet to test mine in sub zero temperatures. Perhaps I'll try throwing it in the freezer for a bit then using it then.


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## Henrik (Feb 3, 2015)

soul347 said:


> I have no tools to measure this, but I can say with confidence that each mode looks exactly the same whether my battery is full or nearly empty. However when my battery is low, it no longer allows me to use the turbo mode and starts blinking to indicate that it will lower the output. I still have yet to test mine in sub zero temperatures. Perhaps I'll try throwing it in the freezer for a bit then using it then.



Thanks Soul; my only "instrument" for testing for PWM is a ceiling fan in a dark room  Any freezer test results will be appreciated.


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## D6859 (Feb 3, 2015)

Henrik said:


> Thanks Soul; my only "instrument" for testing for PWM is a ceiling fan in a dark room  Any freezer test results will be appreciated.



I just remembered I froze mine in a freezer when I got the headlamp to check if it started blinking or anything. I had no problems. I have v1.5, I think.


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## soul347 (Feb 3, 2015)

Did the freezer test. Left my wizard in there for a solid 20+ minutes. It was very cold to the touch when it came out. What I discovered is that every mode works properly and consistently except turbo/highest mode. When on the highest mode, it starts blinking and lowers output. Every other mode works completely fine. After using the light for 2 minutes or so, the light warms up and the problem goes away. 

On the way home I got out to a park in sub zero temperatures here in Canada and ran around a bit with the wizard pro. I had no issues even on turbo. This is probably because I started using the wizard at room temperature, and having the light on was able to keep it warm. 

I'm not too bothered by these results, because I don't often use turbo mode, but armytek definitely has to fix this issue in a future model. My guess is it isn't the battery, but the temperature sensor that the wizard uses to protect against high temperatures, but for whatever reason it also freaks out at lower temperatures as well.


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## Henrik (Feb 3, 2015)

D6859 said:


> I just remembered I froze mine in a freezer when I got the headlamp to check if it started blinking or anything. I had no problems. I have v1.5, I think.



Thanks D6859 - from what I remember reading the issue seems to be with v.2



soul347 said:


> Did the freezer test. ...



Thank you Soul. Sorry to hear the bug exists, but happy that it may be manageable. Issue for me could be using it for SAR, where we're out for many hours in freezing temps. Realistically though, I won't be using Turbo much.


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## Henrik (Feb 4, 2015)

I've been searching for beam shot for the Wizard Pro, but didn't find any with light level and distance details. So can any of you Wizard owners give me an idea of the "reach" of the light. I'd like quite a bit of runtime, ~8 hours, so how far out will I have effective lighting if I run the light at 185 lumens? For SAR about 70'/20 meters of reach is nice.


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## SubLGT (Feb 5, 2015)

It appears to me that Armytek is now calling their headlamps "multi-flashlights".
http://www.armytek.com/multi-flashlights-all-purpose-lights-for-every-task.html

As a multi-flashlight, it is ironic that it is so difficult to remove the Armytek from its rubber cradle, so that we can use it for other purposes than as a headlamp.:thumbsdow

Here is an amusing quote from the above link:
"So now it’s a high time to know why Armytek multi-flashlights managed to gain such public apprehension." :laughing:


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## more_vampires (Feb 5, 2015)

SubLGT said:


> It appears to me that Armytek is now calling their headlamps "multi-flashlights".
> http://www.armytek.com/multi-flashlights-all-purpose-lights-for-every-task.html
> 
> As a multi-flashlight, it is ironic that it is so difficult to remove the Armytek from its rubber cradle, so that we can use it for other purposes than as a headlamp.:thumbsdow
> ...



ZOMG! That is the good stuff, sir. Right on! Got it! (I hope.) No, wait? *"Apprehension?"* I saw it, too! I don't want to get arrested for buying a flashlight!

As a multi-flashlight it must be multi-role with aluminum foil, rubber bands, string, magnets, kittens, and stuff. Not jail time!!!


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## Duckslayer2095 (Feb 6, 2015)

Hey guys,

This is my first post here, however I am a long time reader of this forum as well as the BLF forum. Thanks for all of the great info and reviews that are given here!

I am wanting to purchase a warm tint Wizard Pro, but am having a hard time deciding on whether to wait for the v.2 to come back in stock, or purchasing the v.1 on amazon. The v.1 would save me a little money too. Any suggestions on what to do? Is the v.2 worth the extra money/wait? Also, I have not been able to find whether the new version is brighter than the v.1. It is rated at higher lumen output, as well as being rated in OTF lumens vs LED lumens, however I have not heard it mentioned anywhere that it is truly brighter.

If anybody could help me decide/ clear this up I would really appreciate it!


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## RAM2 (Feb 6, 2015)

Duckslayer2095 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> This is my first post here, however I am a long time reader of this forum as well as the BLF forum. Thanks for all of the great info and reviews that are given here!
> 
> ...



Armytek confirmed the V.2 output and throw are same as the earlier versions. The specifications are different due to OTF rating and more accurate performance measurements. V.2 has a new driver, new UI and less weight. Some people are unhappy that Pro V.2 does not have the means for indicating the battery voltage used in the earlier version. 

More information is available here http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?288932-Armytek-wizard/page25.
Good luck.


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## Derek Dean (Feb 7, 2015)

Howdy Duckslayer2095, and welcome to CPF,
Since you're a new member, and you're considering a light that uses 18650 lithium-ion rechargeable cells, I want to make sure that you are aware of the special handling during use and recharging that these cells require. 

They have a lot of power in a small space, and while used in a light like this they are probably very safe, it would be prudent for you to take a few minutes to acquaint yourself with these simple safety precautions:
*http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Using-Li-ion-cells-in-LED-flashlights-safely*
*http://batteryuniversity.com/*

Have fun!


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## Duckslayer2095 (Feb 7, 2015)

Hey thanks a lot Ram2! I had contacted Armytec about this question but they only specified that the output was the same as the v1.5, so I wasn't sure about the first version. Thanks for clearing that up, I may go with the first version and put the extra money towards higher quality batteries and charger.

Derek Dean, thanks for your help and warning. I just read through that thread as, well as many others, and feel I have a pretty good idea of the risks/precautions now.

Thanks again for the help.


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## soul347 (Feb 7, 2015)

Not really sure about the v1.0, but I really love my v1.5 wizard pro warm. Not sure what they changed. If they are almost the same, then I'm sure you're going to love it.


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## Henrik (Feb 10, 2015)

Think my question got lost in the shuffle, or maybe there is no good answer, but I'll try again: can any of you Wizard owners give me an estimate of the useful throw of the Wizard in 185 lm mode (warm)?


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## soul347 (Feb 10, 2015)

Henrik said:


> Think my question got lost in the shuffle, or maybe there is no good answer, but I'll try again: can any of you Wizard owners give me an estimate of the useful throw of the Wizard in 185 lm mode (warm)?



Hi Henrik, got a chance to do a test and take a picture (see below). I can say the Wizard Pro warm has quite an impressive throw on main mode 2 especially for a light that has no hot spot and a diffused lens. In the picture I am standing at one end of a basement that is about 30-35m wall to wall in a pitch black setting, so all the light you see is coming from the wizard. The light on this mode easily reaches the other end and I could imagine it could go further. I think armytek did a good job balancing throw and flood for a headlamp. How much distance do you need and for what? It will give me an idea on if the wizard can do what you want it to. Take note that the tint is not perfectly captured by the camera.


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## Henrik (Feb 11, 2015)

Thank you Soul for the reply. Unfortunately your beam shot is not showing up in my browser. Any chance you can check and see what the problem is?

I am using headlamps for as my main light for Search & Rescue. I've noticed a few posts here on CPF suggesting that big, super bright, long throw lights must be ideal for SAR, but I think it depends greatly on terrain, weather and other conditions.

Here in New Mexico, the majority of the searches my team takes part in, take place in the Sangre de Christo mountains, where we encounter steep rough terrain with large rocks, arroyos, fallen dead trees, shrubbery etc. In terrain like that it is not possible to reliably search an area further than 10 - 20 meters ~ up to 70' from where you're standing - sometimes less. We constantly consider Probability of Detection (POD) for the areas we search, i.e. the percentage likelihood that you would have found the missing person if that person was in the area you just searched. And around here we simply can't get a satisfactory POD by standing in one spot and shine a big, bright light around. There is no other way than crawling through piles of deadfall, into drainages and so on. The rough terrain also means that we rarely use handheld lights - we need two hands for support/balance/safety. I do carry a Sunwayman D40A in my pack, and have a Nitecore P25 arriving tomorrow (yay), but I've only used the D40A when trying to decipher faint trails through rough country. So headlamps is the main light source for us.

The headlamp covers all tasks from unloading the truck, donning backpacks, reading maps/GPS, trail finding and searching the areas around us. The majority of the time is spent searching, where the claimed 130 lumen semi-spot output of a Black Diamond ReVolt has worked well for me. If it weren't for the PWM of the ReVolt I would probably keep using it - but in rain and snow the PWM drives me batty 

Hopefully this gives you an idea of what I'm looking for.


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## soul347 (Feb 11, 2015)

Man I would love to have an adventurous job like that . I tried to fix the picture link. Let me know if it works now. 

With your use case, I think the Wizard Pro has several advantages over the Black Diamond Revolt:
-More rugged. Shock proof and water proof
-Higher outputs 
-Much longer run times with a single 18650. If you want to use high output constantly, one spare 18650 is all you need for the road. Low voltage indicators and built in battery voltage reading makes it easy to know when you need to swap batteries. 
-Lights up wider area with no hotspot, yet has decent throw, and the beam is not harsh on the eyes. 
-Holder that can rotate 360 degrees for maximum flexibility, which I think is a must in your situation. 

Since you're mostly looking within 10-20m, I think the 2nd output mode would be perfect and will easily light up that distance and beyond. Another nice feature is while in one of the main modes, you can double click and hold to go to max output, then as soon as you let go it will go back to one of the main modes. This is useful for when you just want to really light up an area for a few seconds, then quickly go back to original output. I am not quite sure what tint is better for search and rescue. When you need to really light up something far, I think that Nitecore P25 is an excellent choice. Just clip it to your backpack strap or somewhere easily accessible and you're good to go. I have a Nitecore SRT7 which is almost identical to that P25 in terms of beam pattern and throw, and I can say it is excellent.


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## Henrik (Feb 11, 2015)

Thank you Soul - the picture shows up now and it's very helpful. If that back wall is around 30 - 35 meters away, that should be plenty of light and throw for the majority of my uses.

Unfortunately SAR is not my job - I wish  we are all volunteers and provide all our own gear, vehicles etc. But I still enjoy it - very gratifying, and feels good to contribute to the community that way.

The advantages you mention are clear, and the addition of brief Max mode is definitely an advantage. As for tint, I bought a neutral tint D40A, and am very happy with it. The more accurate color rendition of the neutral white lights, I believe does help in SAR use, where we may be looking to distinguish a dark colored piece of clothing in a dark forest bottom full of shadows and other dark colored stuff; rocks, stumps branches, leaf piles etc.


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## soul347 (Feb 11, 2015)

Ah I see. Either way, that is something I'd love to volunteer for. I lost a friend of mine to a flash flood and they had to do a search and rescue effort. Unfortunately I wasn't there at the time to help, but I wish I was. How often do you join SAR teams?

By the way, I can also confirm that the Wizard Pro doesn't suffer from the PWM issue that you have with the Revolt. I have a Petzl Tikka Plus 2, and on the lower output you can definitely see that strobe effect against things like rain, an electric fan, etc. I used my Petzl side by side with my Wizard Pro, and the Wizard Pro doesn't create that strobe effect on any mode, even the lowest firefly mode. The output levels also decrease on my Petzl as the battery drains, while the Wizard is constant all throughout, but take note as the battery reaches near empty, turbo is no longer accessible. I'd imagine though that you wouldn't drain the battery that far, even on a whole night of searching. I use a 3400mah Nitecore 18650 battery btw.

Let me know if you have any more questions, or if there are some other headlamps you are considering alongside the Wizard.


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## Henrik (Feb 11, 2015)

Sorry to hear about your friend. That's tough.

We generally do not allow non-trained/non-certified personnel to join an ongoing search, for their safety and ours. First rule of SAR: do not turn one rescue into two 

Here in NM, you apply to join a SAR Team. Every SAR volunteer in NM must pass the State Field Certification, which consists of 1) a "pack check"; you must show that you own the required equipment 2) show some simple map/compass skills and 3) a written test. Once you have joined a team and passed your Field Certification, most teams have list of "core competencies" that you must acquire. My team for instance require map/compass and GPS navigation, snowshoe skills, basic search techniques etc. etc. Once your team mentor confirms that you have all the skills and equipment necessary, you are put on the "calling tree" and are eligible to respond to "Missions". In NM the SAR volunteers function under the Dept. of Public Safety and the State Police, who will initiate a Mission and start the "trickle down" activity that eventually leads to you getting a call at 2am  Clearly it's not possible for every team member to respond to all call-outs, but we respond as best we can.

In order to remain "Active" and on the calling tree our team requires each member to participate in a minimum number of team meetings, team trainings and missions each year.

It varies a lot how much we are called out - it was fortunately very quiet over the holidays, but in the month or two leading up to the holidays we had 4 or 5 call-outs.

I would certainly encourage you to look up your local SAR team. I know we are always looking for new members. And the needed functions are so varied that we can find a role for everyone: ground-pounders (that's me), communications, base support, transportation, 4-wheel vehicles/drivers, dog handlers and so on.


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## D6859 (Feb 11, 2015)

Henrik said:


> Here in New Mexico, the majority of the searches my team takes part in, take place in the Sangre de Christo mountains, where we encounter steep rough terrain with large rocks, arroyos, fallen dead trees, shrubbery etc. In terrain like that it is not possible to reliably search an area further than 10 - 20 meters ~ up to 70' from where you're standing - sometimes less. We constantly consider Probability of Detection (POD) for the areas we search, i.e. the percentage likelihood that you would have found the missing person if that person was in the area you just searched. And around here we simply can't get a satisfactory POD by standing in one spot and shine a big, bright light around. There is no other way than crawling through piles of deadfall, into drainages and so on. The rough terrain also means that we rarely use handheld lights - we need two hands for support/balance/safety. I do carry a Sunwayman D40A in my pack, and have a Nitecore P25 arriving tomorrow (yay), but I've only used the D40A when trying to decipher faint trails through rough country. So headlamps is the main light source for us.
> 
> The headlamp covers all tasks from unloading the truck, donning backpacks, reading maps/GPS, trail finding and searching the areas around us.



You made me wonder if I should join local SAR team. Sometimes also our army is called for SAR. I remember when I was doing my service in army and I was in the weekly changing SAR group. Whole group had to run a lap for every missing item when we did the pack check. Dear god we run many laps. But I don't remember if the group was ever called out during my time in the army. I think joining now as volunteer might be interesting without all the running after pack checks 

Sorry for offtopic


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## blah9 (Feb 11, 2015)

I'm very interested in joining a SAR group one day as well. Thanks for sharing those details.

I also think that for those purposes the Wizard Pro would be a great headlamp. I use it often for navigating some pretty rocky terrain in the dark, and it makes the job easy.


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## Henrik (Feb 11, 2015)

Yeah, sorry for the thread drift guys - but if you're thinking about SAR at all please get in touch with your local team. And thank you again for all your Wizard advice.


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## nihilistnarwhal (Feb 23, 2015)

nihilistnarwhal said:


> Is it possible to turn off state indicator flashes completely, or just for off/firefly 1 mode?
> 
> Lastly, I have foolishly selected CR123A or RCR123 when I have only 18650s, and locked myself out. The indicator light works, but I can't switch battery types. Any ideas or do I need to give up go buy some other batteries? Seems odd to make it possible to lock yourself out of the flashlight with the wrong clicks, but maybe it's necessary for some reason or it didn't occur to them that anyone would be so foolish.



Update on this problem: After emailing support, Sandra seemed to confirm CR123/RCR123 should work and allow me to change battery type, and then it would work with 18650 batteries. Since CR123s are cheaper and might not be a waste for me as RCR123 would be, I bought some and the light works just fine. Switched back to 18650 selection (x1) and it works with 18650, switch to CR123 (x2) setting and it works, switch to RCR123 (x3) setting and it doesn't like 18650 anymore. 

The state indicator is now staying off in firefly 2/3, so perhaps I was mistaken before. It can't be turned off for main/maximum modes.

I'm searching for a pocket clip that will fit into the lanyard gap - any suggestions? Going off a cloth taper measure, the lanyard circle seems to be about 22-23mm inner diameter, roughly 1mm width, and the space available with the end completely screwed on looks 1.5-2mm. If anyone has proper calipers and a v2 pro I'd appreciate a more accurate measurement for my search!


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## Charles L. (Feb 23, 2015)

Henrik said:


> Think my question got lost in the shuffle, or maybe there is no good answer, but I'll try again: can any of you Wizard owners give me an estimate of the useful throw of the Wizard in 185 lm mode (warm)?



Hi Henrik,

I don't have the BD Revolt, but do have the Spot and Storm as well as an Armytek Wizard Pro warm. The Wizard is a much nicer light with a far nicer overall beam pattern, but it is floodier. At comparable lumen outputs, I believe the Spot and Storm out-throw the Wizard. Of course one can compensate by ramping up the lumens of the Wizard, at the cost of battery life. If you need a lamp with greater throw, I might look at some of Armytek's more direct competitors such as Zebralight, Spark and Skilhunt -- TBH I'm not even sure about the Spark and Skilhunt because I believe they too use a TIR optic like Armytek, but the ZL H600w is a throwier light. Not that you'd go wrong with a Wizard Pro -- it's in the top 3 of my headlamp collection for sure


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## Henrik (Feb 24, 2015)

Thank you Charles for the additional information - that's very helpful. The Storm and Revolt have similar throw claims on the BD website - despite different claimed output. I have an older Revolt, and IIRC it was advertised at 120 lumen max output. So I was hoping that the Wizard at 185 OTF lumens would give me close to the same throw as my old Revolt. Too bad about the BD lights too - they're very nice for the price, but the PWM and the interface are annoying.

I did look at the Zebralight H600w and the many good reviews they get, but they can't run on CR123 batteries and that is a deal breaker for me. For SAR I run my lights on rechargeable batteries, and carry primary batteries as back-up. I also tried to look at the Spark lights, but I simply gave up on their website 

So for now I think the Wizard is still the top contender.


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## SubLGT (Feb 24, 2015)

Henrik said:


> ……………….I also tried to look at the Spark lights, but I simply gave up on their website
> ………………..



The Spark website is nearly useless. They provide very little technical information about their flashlights.


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## Charles L. (Feb 24, 2015)

Henrik said:


> . I also tried to look at the Spark lights, but I simply gave up on their website
> 
> So for now I think the Wizard is still the top contender.



Agreed, Spark's website is pretty bad.

Wizard is a great choice. Armytek has a great warranty as well.


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## bower4311 (Mar 4, 2015)

I have some odd Wizard Pro v. 1.5 problems. I'm hoping to get a replacement soon (2nd one now). Kind of frustrating. I too wonder if the cold had something to do with it. If I turn my light on now, it automatically goes right to turbo and is blinking (oscillating?) so fast you can barely tell, but it almost gives you a headache. You also can't switch between any modes. After a minute or so, it does return back to normal. Another real odd thing is that when I switch between modes when it is working correctly, the instance the button is pressed inward (usually nothing happens unless you hold it long enough to change modes) the light briefly appears to step up, then when I release, the light would go off, or hold it long enough and it switches modes. Something is very off and it's frustrating. 3 different batteries, all do the same thing. I'm from NY and the area I'm at, the temperature never got lower than Armytek says their light can handle. Also, when I turn it on and it's doing its weird turbo blinking thing, if I press the button down, it stops blinking/oscillating which seems strange.


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## mihp (Mar 6, 2015)

Hi guys !

I have an Armytek Wizard Pro v1 (I think) that shows a strange behaviour:

If I run it on MAX for 10 or so minutes, the body becomes very hot (as expected).
If I turn it off now the LED still glows . The intensity of the glow is less than Firefly 1 mode.

If I unscrew the base for 1/4 turn the LED goes off, if I screw it back on LED glows again.

After the head cools down the glow slowly disappears.

So it seems to me there are some running currents due to high temperature.
Other than this the headlamp works fine.

I also have a Wizard V1.5 that does not do this.

Can anyone with a v1 Wizard test to see if his does this ? 
Is this a fault or just a design 'feature ' ?

Regards
Mike


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## a_sap_2 (Apr 2, 2015)

Hey i have a question on the wizard pro v1 i have it and I've been using it for a couple months now and it is stuck being really dim right now like the battery is almost dead but i have put fully charged 18650 in it. Any help would be appreciated!


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## a_sap_2 (Apr 2, 2015)

Hey i have a question about the wizard pro v1 i have a problem because it is very dim but cycles through all the modes just very dim what could the issue be?


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## underconstruction (Apr 28, 2015)

Can anyone point me to a video showing the strobe and beacon modes on the Wizard Pro? Or at least a description of their frequency? I want to get an idea of how useful they will be. Thanks.


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## D6859 (Apr 28, 2015)

underconstruction said:


> Can anyone point me to a video showing the strobe and beacon modes on the Wizard Pro? Or at least a description of their frequency? I want to get an idea of how useful they will be. Thanks.



I tried to take a video with my mobile phone, it should appear in http://youtu.be/9rLXXzjXlwQ . Maybe I should have had the lights on. Armytek's manual describes the modes 0.6 Hz and 10 Hz.


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## Phil2795 (Apr 29, 2015)

My first post here .. So greetings everyone 

Just received my Wizard Pro V1.5 .. 
My first "Serious" headlamp 
After an hour of playing round with it I'm pleased to say my other "Cheap n Cheerful" headlamp will never see the dark of night again 

Previous comments about the effort required to activate the switch aren't a concern (I'd much prefer it that way vs accidental turning on) 

For me .. I set it up with the switch on the left .. Upside down .. As most of the time I am using tools,carrying gear ,or holding on to ladders etc with my right (dominant) hand 

Looking forward to a Brighter Future thanks to Armytek Wizard [emoji4]


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## blah9 (Apr 29, 2015)

Welcome! I'm glad you're satisfied, and I hope you continue to be happy with the Wizard!


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## underconstruction (Apr 30, 2015)

D6859 said:


> I tried to take a video with my mobile phone, it should appear in http://youtu.be/9rLXXzjXlwQ . Maybe I should have had the lights on. Armytek's manual describes the modes 0.6 Hz and 10 Hz.



Thanks a lot for the video. This helped me decide on the wizard pro. Much appreciated!


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## scar556 (Apr 30, 2015)

I know that it is not recommended to use CR123 batteries in the Wizard .. But has anyone tried to use them? I am really wanting to purchase one but am not wanting to buy a charger and rechargeable batteries right away ... As I have tons of CR123s on hand ... Thanks for any info


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## blah9 (Apr 30, 2015)

scar556 said:


> I know that it is not recommended to use CR123 batteries in the Wizard .. But has anyone tried to use them? I am really wanting to purchase one but am not wanting to buy a charger and rechargeable batteries right away ... As I have tons of CR123s on hand ... Thanks for any info



I thought that as well but then looked it up, and I think the v2 one does take those batteries now.


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## scar556 (Apr 30, 2015)

blah9 said:


> I thought that as well but then looked it up, and I think the v2 one does take those batteries now.


Yes! You are absolutely right. .. I just checked their website and confirmed it. Thanks for pointing this out


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## RAM2 (Apr 30, 2015)

blah9 said:


> I thought that as well but then looked it up, and I think the v2 one does take those batteries now.



The V2 Wizard and Wizard Pro are designed for 1x18650, 2x RCR123, 2xCR123A. This information is stated in the manuals. The Wizard Pro needs to be programmed for the type of battery being used.


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## D6859 (May 3, 2015)

Inspired by the Zebralight moonlight mode test thread in LED Flashlights section of the forums, I've decided to do a 7lm/9d test on my Wizard pro and a 2lm/200h test on my Tiara A1. Anyone interested doing it at the same time with me? Or anyone interested at all about the test? I will start own thread for the tests if you're interested. 

It would be more interesting to do the 0,5lm/100d and 0,1lm/90d tests but I'm afraid I'm going to need both of my headlamps during the summer.


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## Stevie (Oct 30, 2015)

Did they fix the low temp blinking issue then on the latest version?


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## scs (Oct 30, 2015)

Stevie said:


> Did they fix the low temp blinking issue then on the latest version?



check out AT's own thread for the Wizard in the AT subforum and see if AT has even acknowledged that there is a programming or manufacturing defect.


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## Stevie (Oct 30, 2015)

scs said:


> check out AT's own thread for the Wizard in the AT subforum and see if AT has even acknowledged that there is a programming or manufacturing defect.



Hmm....reading into what you just said....it would appear then that they are not great at acknowledging potential issues from customer reports then? Okay...hmm....not good.


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## Lightmycandle (Nov 9, 2015)

I have been wondering between ZL and AT lights for my running needs. After much reading and research, I chose AT and got all 3 lights today. I am actually a bit disappointed. I got all 3 in the pro version V2. The C model has a defective switch that you have to press and squeeze beyond the click to activate. All three C, A and wizard model has gap between the bezel and the glass. Unless there is something special, I don't see how this can be water resistance let along water proof. I do need it to be at least water resistant to run in bad weather.

The build is solid bezel/glass area not withstanding and heavy the magnet is nice and I don't mind the UI.

Shipping time was OK. Took a while to ship but DHL international was a nice touch. However, if you read their web site, they go in dept and preach on responsibility of checking the package condition and therefore the content condition is on the receiver yet, they ship with a unpadded water proof envelope. 2/3 of my boxes were slightly squashed - for international, I consider my self lucky.

Would you guys who has one check the bezel and glass area? Do they all have gaps? I can actually see some jaggedness one one of the glass piece that's how imprecise it is cut. Absolutely not expecting this on a "top tier" lamp.

Thank you for your feedback


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## D6859 (Nov 11, 2015)

Lightmycandle said:


> I have been wondering between ZL and AT lights for my running needs. After much reading and research, I chose AT and got all 3 lights today. I am actually a bit disappointed. I got all 3 in the pro version V2. The C model has a defective switch that you have to press and squeeze beyond the click to activate. All three C, A and wizard model has gap between the bezel and the glass. Unless there is something special, I don't see how this can be water resistance let along water proof. I do need it to be at least water resistant to run in bad weather.
> 
> Shipping time was OK. Took a while to ship but DHL international was a nice touch. However, if you read their web site, they go in dept and preach on responsibility of checking the package condition and therefore the content condition is on the receiver yet, they ship with a unpadded water proof envelope. 2/3 of my boxes were slightly squashed - for international, I consider my self lucky.



How wide is the gap? My Tiara (v1) has a small gap and Wizard (v1.5) has a wider gap, but they're both filled with some elastic seal that makes them waterproof. I could barely fit a toothpick into the gap in Tiara to test if it was filled with something. IIRC I've tested both lights in shower and I washed Tiara in a sink last weekend. If you have doubt, you can test yours in shower. If it breaks, contact the customer service to return it and demand for refund. It should be able take a 10 metre dive.

Also, Tiara/Wizard should be able to take a 10 metre drop. I think DHL wouldn't have been able to break the switch without totally smashing the packet. When you _received_ the package you confirmed that the packet was ok and it's not DHL's fault if the light is broken. If you find the light defect after you've _opened _the package it's Armytek's fault. If you _misuse_ the light (e.g. drop it over 10 metres, dive wearing it, leave leaking batteries in etc.) and it breaks, it's your fault. Armytek boasts 10 year warranty so their quality control should be more than just good. I think you could return the C if the switch is bothering you.


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## Lightmycandle (Nov 11, 2015)

Thank you for letting me known abut the gap and that it is still functional with it. The C switch is for sure defective. Mind you these are new out of the box. I just got them. The plastic bag they were shipped in is of course ok... It is a... plastic bag... No shipping protection from it the protection would come from the boxes lights are in. While I don't doubt their overall qa process, to me, a high $ premium light, I expected better fit/finish. This is just me we all have different tolerance on things. I will contact AT. 

Thanks


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## scs (Nov 11, 2015)

Lightmycandle said:


> Thank you for letting me known abut the gap and that it is still functional with it. The C switch is for sure defective. Mind you these are new out of the box. I just got them. The plastic bag they were shipped in is of course ok... It is a... plastic bag... No shipping protection from it the protection would come from the boxes lights are in. While I don't doubt their overall qa process, to me, a high $ premium light, I expected better fit/finish. This is just me we all have different tolerance on things. I will contact AT.
> 
> Thanks



Hope yours doesn't do this:


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## rpm00 (Nov 11, 2015)

scs said:


> Hope yours doesn't do this]



Shudders.. Scary


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## Lightmycandle (Nov 12, 2015)

scs said:


> Hope yours doesn't do this:



Oh geese!! No I would rather not deal with the possibility. Thanks for the video


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## blah9 (Nov 14, 2015)

I think I have a small gap like you're describing in my Wizard Pro. However, I've definitely washed mine off and it's been through a lot of rain in the past to no ill effects. It looks to me like the gap on mine is maybe supposed to be there. I think it's filled in but just doesn't stick out as far as the two sections it spans if that makes any sense.


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## meo (Nov 15, 2015)

I am thining about getting an Armytek Wizard XM-L2 High CRI, which was a limited edition, and there is not much information anywhere...
_Output (runtime): 630 lm (1h 30min), 370 lm (3h), 170 lm (7h), 20 lm (30h), 4 lm (9d)_

I found only one thing close to that: not yet available Zebralight H600Fc III, which has better runtimes.

Should I wait for more expensive Zebralight, or get 90CRI Armytek?


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## Toolboxkid (Nov 15, 2015)

meo said:


> I am thining about getting an Armytek Wizard XM-L2 High CRI, which was a limited edition, and there is not much information anywhere...
> _Output (runtime): 630 lm (1h 30min), 370 lm (3h), 170 lm (7h), 20 lm (30h), 4 lm (9d)_
> 
> I found only one thing close to that: not yet available Zebralight H600Fc III, which has better runtimes.
> ...



I am pleased with my 90 cri Armytek. You should get one.


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums


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## Tixx (Nov 16, 2015)

Where are you finding the high cri versions?


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## meo (Nov 17, 2015)

Tixx said:


> Where are you finding the high cri versions?



In one particular eshop... You want to buy it instead of me?


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## Leedrag (Dec 5, 2015)

Does anyone have some information about the new v3?

For me it looks like they have only changed the LED.


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## BuildingSerenity (Dec 12, 2015)

Hi-

Very interested in this headlamp. That video spooks me.

Is this unit solid?

Thanks-


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## Jake-d (Dec 17, 2015)

Hey, I have had an armytek wizard pro warm, probably a couple years or so.
I use it daily, and last few months I noticed if I hold down the button to turn on, you go ff1-ff2- main modes.
It will go to firefly one, and two. But when it is trying to change to main one, it pauses. it is like there is a lag, and almost a freeze sometimes. it seems to go through all the other modes OK. but main one, and battery check mode are having issues. I noticed it is worse when the cells are not at 100% charge, more like 50%.


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## blah9 (Dec 24, 2015)

Such a shame. If you get a good one they seem to be great, but it does seem like the chance of that happening has been getting worse.


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## somalezu (Feb 17, 2016)

Leedrag said:


> Does anyone have some information about the new v3?
> 
> For me it looks like they have only changed the LED.



Hi everyone, 
I have the same question: Wizard Pro V2 or V3? I am wondering if I should order a V2 from a local dealer or wait for the delivery of the V3 from China ... (I can't find any V3 on stock here in Romania).


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## Tachead (Feb 18, 2016)

somalezu said:


> Hi everyone,
> I have the same question: Wizard Pro V2 or V3? I am wondering if I should order a V2 from a local dealer or wait for the delivery of the V3 from China ... (I can't find any V3 on stock here in Romania).



I would wait for the V3 and wait for some reviews before buying. A lot of people have had issues with Armyteks lately. The Wizard V2 seems to be one of the models that has had many issues like bugs with the firmware causing weird glitches with certain modes exc(run a google search). If you get a good one you might be fine but, I dont like playing the lottery myself.


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## gyzmo2002 (Feb 18, 2016)

Tachead said:


> If you get a good one you might be fine but, I dont like playing the lottery myself.



So true with Armytek.


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## mickb (Feb 26, 2016)

I got the armytek wizard regular and sold it the same week. Did a mini review at the time. Quality for mine was good, no problems, operated as advertised.

Problem was it too much of a gap between the 35 and 200 lumen settings for all night trekking. The 35 lumens was too dim for moving across difficult or unknown ground, the 200 lumens sucked power too fast for all night use. Not a problem for shorter periods, but no good for me. The pro has a better breakup of output options.


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## somalezu (Feb 26, 2016)

Tachead said:


> I would wait for the V3 and wait for some reviews before buying. A lot of people have had issues with Armyteks lately. .



I was thinking buying the V3 from eu.nkon.nl but I noticed a warning on that site regarding some bugs in that particular batch of V3 lights.
I wrote to the nkon.nl guys but they didn't reply so I ended up buying the V2, a Panasonic battery and a VC4 charger from a local reseller here in Romania (almost 40 Euros more expensive than knon but pretty helpfull).
It's my first flashlight (I had some particular requirements). I played with it for about one hour and it seems fine for now.


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## SubLGT (Jul 2, 2016)

What's the latest verdict on the Wizard Pro v3 XP-L? Still buggy?


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## tex.proud (Jul 2, 2016)

I have the Armytek Wizard Pro v3 XHP50 Warm, and it functions as it should. No issues. Great lumen spacing.

Tex.Proud


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## SubLGT (Jul 3, 2016)

Well, andrew-amanda.com have enticed me with their 25% off sale, so I ordered a Wizard Pro v3 XP-L. As always with an Armytek purchase, I am hoping for good luck. I have had no problems with my Wizard v1, other than the ridiculously stiff switch. But I did have to send in a Prime Pro C1 for warranty replacement.

I also considered the XHP50 version, but I decided I really have no use for 3 strobe modes and the 50W heater mode.


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## Bhpepper (Aug 13, 2016)

The wizard pro series seems to fit my needs (by spec). Have not bought yet and now this thread has be second guessing. 

Is this a solid light?
Also there are tons of wizard pro versions. Is there a glaring one over another?


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## Bhpepper (Aug 13, 2016)

Also how does the Tiara compare?


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## blah9 (Aug 13, 2016)

I love the warm tinted ones. It's nice in my opinion to not have cool white output.


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## blah9 (Aug 13, 2016)

Oh and my wife's Tiara is nice. I much prefer 18650 based lights for runtime and output advantages but her Tiara has a nice tint and works well.


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## radioactive_man (Aug 24, 2016)

Just got an Armytek Wizard Pro V2 warm white. I chose this one because it's the only warm white Wizard Pro that will run on CR123s and RCR123s. I prefer to power it with 18650s but I stock CR123s for extended blackouts (which never happen where I live, but still).

The output dwarfs that of my Spark ST6-460NW (which flickers on the lowest and highest levels when running 18650s), the color rendering is VERY nice, the runtimes are decent, the mode spacing is ok and it is very comfy to wear. Also, it is nice to have the power indicator. On the max mode it's not a room lighter - it's a barn lighter.

In short I LOVE this headlamp.


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## blah9 (Aug 24, 2016)

Glad you're enjoying it! I'm super happy with mine as well. Just got it out last night to help my wife and I see the car we were washing after work.


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## MattSPL (Aug 31, 2016)

I've a wizard pro v1.5 xml2. Great light, very tough, it's been dropped many times onto concrete and has been in the washing machine too. 

Tempted to order the XPH50


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## myflashguy (Nov 7, 2016)

radioactive_man said:


> Just got an Armytek Wizard Pro V2 warm white. I chose this one because it's the only warm white Wizard Pro that will run on CR123s and RCR123s. I prefer to power it with 18650s but I stock CR123s for extended blackouts (which never happen where I live, but still).
> 
> The output dwarfs that of my Spark ST6-460NW (which flickers on the lowest and highest levels when running 18650s), the color rendering is VERY nice, the runtimes are decent, the mode spacing is ok and it is very comfy to wear. Also, it is nice to have the power indicator. On the max mode it's not a room lighter - it's a barn lighter.
> 
> In short I LOVE this headlamp.



It's well built but I don't prefer warm white I hv v3 warm & v3 cool white. One downside is if u use max output continuesly it does overheat the battery & melt lower portion of battery wrapper I hd to re-wrap my battery. AT v3 XHP50 is much better at regulating heat imo & the cool white is awesome plus 2300lm is extremely bright! :thumbsup:


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## Telkwa (Oct 30, 2017)

Hi, guys, haven't read this entire thread so forgive me if this has been covered...

Bought a Wizard V2 XM-L2 in December 2015 from E2 Field Gear. Gets used several hours per month, and no complaints until recently. Starting a few months ago it seemed like the light was draining the battery sooner than expected. 

Four batteries, all recommended by the forum, are in rotation. And the charger is taking care of two other headlamps and their 18650's. So it's not that. Over the next month or two it seemed like the prob kept getting worse. Picked it up yesterday and it was dead. Fresh battery a few days ago.

I have the original receipt. Should I talk with dealer first, or try to contact ArmyTek?


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## Woods Walker (Oct 31, 2017)

Most of the times issues like this are somehow, in some way battery related. I would buy a new battery not in the rotation.


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## iamlucky13 (Oct 31, 2017)

Most retailers only handle product support for a limited window of time after purchase (eg 30 days) if at all. If you're certain it's not an issue with your batteries, you certainly could try contacting the seller, but I suspect they'll just say to contact Armytek.

Have you checked to see if the runtime on one of the higher modes is in the ballpark you'd expect?

Do you have a multimeter you can try measuring tailcap current with when the light is off?


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## Telkwa (Nov 4, 2017)

Yes, I have a couple of multimeters. One old analog Radio Shack meter and a cheap digital one. I removed the tail cap. Placed one probe (ended up being the black one) on the back of the battery and grounded the other probe to the headlamp body. 

Using the digital meter, on the 20m scale, the ArmyTek went to 7.5. I think that's 7.5 mA? The old analog meter appears to be showing about the same. 

I have a Nitecore HC30. Did the same test. With the Nitecore the meter flicks up to about 1.5 when the probes first make contact. Then the meter drops to very nearly zero over the course of a few seconds.

I've never done a parasitic test before. Isn't 7.5 mA kinda high?


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## iamlucky13 (Nov 7, 2017)

Telkwa said:


> Yes, I have a couple of multimeters. One old analog Radio Shack meter and a cheap digital one. I removed the tail cap. Placed one probe (ended up being the black one) on the back of the battery and grounded the other probe to the headlamp body.
> 
> Using the digital meter, on the 20m scale, the ArmyTek went to 7.5. I think that's 7.5 mA? The old analog meter appears to be showing about the same.
> 
> ...



Yes, 7.5 mA is definitely high. That will drain a battery battery in good condition in 2-3 weeks. It sounds like your light has developed some sort of defect. I would contact Armytek customer service about additional troubleshooting or a warranty claim.


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## iamlucky13 (Nov 15, 2017)

A bit of news some folks may be interested in and others may already know about - Armytek is considering doing a batch of Wizard Pro's with a Nichia 144A high CRI emitter. It should be pretty close to the XHP50 version in output, but with a tint more like what those who own Nichia 219 lights are familiar with. The idea was inspired by a Reddit user who modded his own and subsequently suggested it to Armytek.

Armytek responded by asking the flashlight sub-Reddit how many people were interested:
Source

More recent updates suggest they are continuing to work on it, but have had had difficulty sourcing those particular emitters in small quantities.

High CRI fans, keep your fingers crossed.


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## jirik (Nov 21, 2017)

Hello, I bought this flashlight and I like it a lot. The only issue is the charging which seems strange sometimes... Even when the battery is under 4V, after connecting the charger plug (the tail cap unscrewed by 1/4 turn) it sometimes flashes between red and green light and I need to twist the plug a little or unplug few times to make it work. Also the charging current seems low, it is approximately 200mA. Does somebody here have the flashlight and can measure the charging current for me?


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## Telkwa (Nov 24, 2017)

Hey, guys, thanks for the help. Got in touch with ArmyTek. They wanted a video fer crying out loud. We complied. Hoping for a positive outcome.

UPDATE DECEMBER 6th
ArmyTek's return process is a bit unconventional but everything worked out. They replaced my 2 year old Wizard with a Wizard Pro. The Pro has a groovy magnetic USB charger cable that grips the tailcap and charges the battery inside the headlamp. 

I appreciate that the industry continues to innovate, but I have a feeling that removing the battery from the headlamp and charging it with our XTAR VC2 or Nitecore Intellicharger might give better results. 

I tried charging the battery inside the headlamp using the USB cable. There are indicating LED's built into the magnetic part that clamps to the headlamp. The LED turns from red to green when it's charged. The cable had been red for a long time, so out of curiosity I removed the cable, then reattached it. The light went green and stayed that way. I removed the battery and plugged it into a VC2. The VC2 indicated the battery was at less than 4 volts, and proceeded to charge for another couple of hours.

That's only one test, and I introduced a variable by disconnecting and reconnecting. So it's a little premature to say, but the magnetic USB charging cable may not charge the batteries as fully as a dedicated charger. I don't know where the charging circuitry resides - inside the flashlight? I don't think it's in the cable. Maybe some of both? 

Pretty sure the old Wizard was lifetime warranty. This new one says "10 Year No-Hassle Warranty".


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## wardroid (Feb 9, 2019)

I bought mine in 2017 of May. I've only used it 2-3 times and it won't turn on. Anybody with similar problems? I have an older version that works like a champ, so I'm pretty disappointed. The first one I bought went through a severe torture test and never had issues with it. I've never even took the new one outside.


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## Stefano (Feb 20, 2019)

jirik said:


> Hello, I bought this flashlight and I like it a lot. The only issue is the charging which seems strange sometimes... Even when the battery is under 4V, after connecting the charger plug (the tail cap unscrewed by 1/4 turn) it sometimes flashes between red and green light and I need to twist the plug a little or unplug few times to make it work. Also the charging current seems low, it is approximately 200mA. Does somebody here have the flashlight and can measure the charging current for me?





Hi jirik
I answer even if it's been a long time because it can be useful to other users.
When I bought the first Armytek Wizard I had the same doubts but then later I realized that this is normal.
(I bought more than one Wizard and tried various cables)
After unscrew the tailcap to 1/4, you must connect the white cable and then turn it slightly to see the red color appear - then avoid moving the cable until the end of charging.
The charging current is low, it is made of the tests, it is "high" if you unscrew the tailcap a little (in this case I measure 0,23 / 0,27 A) - if you unscrew too much the tailcap the charging can happen again but the current will be lower (0.15 / 0.16 A)
The magnetic charging is not perfect but if you are not in a hurry it is very convenient.
(sorry for the bad translation)


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## Woods Walker (Feb 20, 2019)

I am working on a review of the USB wizard. I got 5.06V at .86A via magnetic charge using a 2A USB powerbank. However with a nearly full battery it charged at 5.16V at .20A. This is typical preformace with most 1A chargers.


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## Stefano (Feb 23, 2019)

Woods Walker said:


> I am working on a review of the USB wizard. I got 5.06V at .86A via magnetic charge using a 2A USB powerbank. However with a nearly full battery it charged at 5.16V at .20A. This is typical preformace with most 1A chargers.



I found a confirmation of what you write 
Using an Aukey powerbank (20000 mA) I get 5,10/5.13 V and I can see until 3,1/3.5 A (with Armytek battery at 50% charge level)

Using a good USB adapter (Rav Power 2,4 A) connected to the AC current I usually get 5.06 or 5.08 V and an approximate average of 0.23 / 0.27 A (If the battery is very low, I can also see 0.29 A)

In the future I want to try charging with the battery almost at zero level to see if I get a higher charge
I have noticed however that the value of A is larger with the battery at a low level, it decreases when the battery is charged.





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## neutralwhite (Feb 24, 2019)

is this the correct O ring size of Wizard Pro - V3 I think it is. thanks.

[FONT=system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, .SFNSText-Regular, sans-serif]The diameter of Wizard Pro O ring is 2,3 cm or 0,9 inch[/FONT]
[FONT=system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, .SFNSText-Regular, sans-serif]1mm Thick.[/FONT]

[FONT=system-ui, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, .SFNSText-Regular, sans-serif]& where would it be on here; [/FONT]https://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=page_2


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