# Down the dark path I go :)



## mcbrat (Dec 20, 2016)

Bought the lathe used. Have done the requisite tear down and clean. Have done a few upgrades, and a few fixes along the way... Now practice, practice, practice.


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## Tejasandre (Dec 20, 2016)

This should be fun.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Dec 20, 2016)

Very Cool! Congratulations on the shiny red lathe. :thumbsup: [email protected]@K forward to seeing your creations. 

~ Chance


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## StrikerDown (Dec 20, 2016)

Like button clicked!


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## KITROBASKIN (Dec 20, 2016)

(spoken with a deep, deep voice): The Force is strong in that lathe.


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## mcbrat (Dec 20, 2016)

Been getting help from Devin, and just ordered my threading tools.


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## fivemega (Dec 20, 2016)

*Looks like Central Machinery 7"x10" variable speed mini lathe.
Have fun.* :twothumbs


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## mcbrat (Dec 21, 2016)

fivemega said:


> *Looks like Central Machinery 7"x10" variable speed mini lathe.
> Have fun.* :twothumbs


Yep. Too good of a deal to pass up.


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## Str8stroke (Dec 21, 2016)

I see a bright future for you. hehehe

Seriously, I bet you will appreciate some of the lights you own, just a bit more.


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## mk2rocco (Dec 21, 2016)

We are all waiting for you to start producing customs now...


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## Xavier (Dec 21, 2016)

Awesome!! Make some nice CR2 powered lights!


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## mcbrat (Dec 21, 2016)

mk2rocco said:


> We are all waiting for you to start producing customs now...



I wouldn't get too amped up about any customs from me. I don't really have a lot of time to devote to this. I would be happy with making one light in 2017. I don't really call that producing 



Xavier said:


> Awesome!! Make some nice CR2 powered lights!



one of the items I wanted to think about. I have some left over CR2s and some 15270's without a light to put them in


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## archimedes (Dec 21, 2016)

Xavier said:


> Awesome!! Make some nice CR2 powered lights!






mcbrat said:


> .... one of the items I wanted to think about. I have some left over CR2s and some 15270's without a light to put them in



Please add me to that list ...


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## gadget_lover (Dec 22, 2016)

Enjoy it. That's a nice way to start a long and enjoyable hobby carving metals.

Daniel


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## mcbrat (Dec 31, 2016)

Still need to do the top of the tail cap so you can reach the button...


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## gadget_lover (Dec 31, 2016)

You are moving fast... From purchase to viable extender in just 2 weeks!


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## mcbrat (Dec 31, 2016)

I purchased last summer, but spent what little time I had on watching videos, reading, talking with other forum members, and tearing it down and fixing things... That piece will be a tail standing tail cap.


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## mcbrat (Jan 1, 2017)

Finished. Plenty of chatter marks, but good enough for my first piece...


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## gadget_lover (Jan 2, 2017)

It looks real nice to me. The chatter is not real evident. 

I find that my arthritis limits the movement of my thumb, so I need the switch boot as high as possible. How deep is yours?

Dan


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Jan 3, 2017)

I think a check in the Win column is in order. :thumbsup: Good job. 

~ Chance


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## mcbrat (Jan 3, 2017)

gadget_lover said:


> It looks real nice to me. The chatter is not real evident.
> 
> I find that my arthritis limits the movement of my thumb, so I need the switch boot as high as possible. How deep is yours?
> 
> Dan


It's a bit too deep. Could definitely be shortened and opened up a bit more... 

The chatter is consistent around the boot, so maybe I'll claim it as a starburst design


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## mcbrat (Jan 3, 2017)




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## vadimax (Jan 3, 2017)

mcbrat said:


> The chatter is consistent around the boot, so maybe I'll claim it as a starburst design



May that chatter be a sign of a cutting tool left too long? The tool vibration leaves that kind of marks.


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## mcbrat (Jan 3, 2017)

vadimax said:


> May that chatter be a sign of a cutting tool left too long? The tool vibration leaves that kind of marks.



yeah, I was actually just widening out the thumb access area, and each pass I stopped when it rubbed up against the shoulder. I could go back in and clean it up, but leaving it as a reminder of what not to do


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## StrikerDown (Jan 3, 2017)

You might try aluminum specific bits also. They seem to help and don't get BUE as easily. Also cutting with a little shot of WD-40 seems to help a lot with surface finish and keeps BUE at bay!

Very nice work by the way!!!!


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## Offgridled (Jan 3, 2017)

Looks really good for first attempt. Great job there and so much fun!!


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## precisionworks (Jan 6, 2017)

mcbrat said:


> Plenty of chatter marks, but good enough for my first piece...


To eliminate or reduce chatter:
1) Reduce rpm
2) Make sure tool tip is not higher than center. Ideal height is 0.010" below center.
3) Pick an insert optimized for aluminum (polished rake face, no hone, etc.)
4) For a boring bar (I'm guessing that's how you made the counterbore) shorten up as much as possible. Solid carbide bars are really nice for small bores. Probably something around 3/8" diameter would work for the counterbore op.


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## mcbrat (Jan 16, 2017)




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## Tejasandre (Jan 16, 2017)

Looks like you got something there.


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## Offgridled (Jan 16, 2017)

Does look very nice. Great job: [emoji106]


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## precisionworks (Jan 17, 2017)

There are (at least) two ways to cut a 45° angle transition. One is to push a tool against the work & that almost always leaves chatter because the tool is scraping away metal. The other is to use a boring bar with the spindle run in reverse. Because that's a shearing cut the result is a smooth finish.

(Referring to the photos in post #28)


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## mcbrat (Jan 17, 2017)

Thanks for the tips. Determined I really need to lower my work surface. Hope I can lower it enough. The cabinet it's on is really nice for storing my tooling...


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## precisionworks (Jan 18, 2017)

My lathe's bore axis is about 7" below my elbow (about 24" below eye level). Everyone is different, the machine needs to be high enough not to cause excessive bending at the waist & low enough to see what the tool is doing. It may take a time or two but you'll find the best height for you. 

FWIW my lathe's centerline is 45" above the floor but I'm six feet tall. YMMV.


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## mcbrat (Jan 22, 2017)

It's ugly and it's done. It works. 
Was supposed to be cr2 sized, but it's got a 16340 in it... 
I've got a bunch more adjustments to make to the lathe. 
Probably a bit ambitious for my first lathe project. 
I'll do some beads next...

Special shoutout to DatiLED. Derek's engine took a fair amount of abuse getting it in there due to some threading issues. popped some black plastic protective stuff off one of the chips, and it still works!


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## Tejasandre (Jan 22, 2017)

Awesome


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Jan 22, 2017)

Tejasandre said:


> Awesome



I agree. 

mcbrat, Surely you realize haw many here would love to be able to create anything as nice on their first attempt? Or at all, for that matter. 

~ Chance


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## light-modder (Jan 22, 2017)

I've missed the last several comments. Good work there! Keep going.


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## DrafterDan (Jan 24, 2017)

It's coming along! I won't even tell you how many of my pieces became "examples of what not to do". While having a tutor would definitely shorten the learning curve, I do feel doing it on my own allows my achievements to be appreciated by me more. 

First thing is always safety. Eye and ear protection is a must. Double check that you don't have too much material hanging off the head unsupported. Double check that you have things tightened before proceeding. I've even come very close to turning it on with the key still in the head, which would have certainly been an exciting experience.


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## Nitroz (Jan 24, 2017)

Nice light! I'm not there yet but I'm itching to try soon.


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## mcbrat (Feb 5, 2017)

precisionworks said:


> My lathe's bore axis is about 7" below my elbow (about 24" below eye level). Everyone is different, the machine needs to be high enough not to cause excessive bending at the waist & low enough to see what the tool is doing. It may take a time or two but you'll find the best height for you.
> 
> FWIW my lathe's centerline is 45" above the floor but I'm six feet tall. YMMV.


My work piece center is at 52", but I can lose 5" from the dolly I have it on. I just like the mobility because it's not dedicated shop space... 

It also came with a 2x10 mounted on the bottom, with some ropes to serve as a mobility enhancer  could save another 1.5"

Im 5'11".


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## mcbrat (Feb 5, 2017)

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> I agree.
> 
> mcbrat, Surely you realize haw many here would love to be able to create anything as nice on their first attempt? Or at all, for that matter.
> 
> ~ Chance


Yes, and thanks.


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## mcbrat (Feb 5, 2017)

Why I like this cabinet for this...










And the rest of the garage...


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## Nitroz (Feb 5, 2017)

mcbrat said:


> Why I like this cabinet for this..
> 
> And the rest of the garage...



Wow! That is one beautiful and clean garage!


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## mcbrat (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks. I just finished it last April in time for my son's grad party. It was a total gut job.


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## Nitroz (Feb 5, 2017)

mcbrat said:


> Thanks. I just finished it last April in time for my son's grad party. It was a total gut job.



My son has a grad party coming up soon!


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Feb 5, 2017)

Never mind.


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## forstersun (Feb 10, 2017)

Great job here!!

No doubt you really find a dark path...lol.


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## mcbrat (Feb 12, 2017)

all right. the lathe is revamped and tightened up good now.

did the top adjust carriage mod, along with brass plates, and put brass gibs in too.
also did the apron cover for the gears as that was an issue for me too...


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## mcbrat (Feb 21, 2017)

It's interesting to me to see how tool type and speed relate to finish. 

Still not perfect, but better... 
Yeah, I sorta skipped the beads again...


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## light-modder (Feb 21, 2017)

Mick, that looks fantastic!


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## precisionworks (Feb 22, 2017)

Mick, are you using the tailstock with live center to support the outboard end of the tube?

Also, an aluminum specific insert (available from Curt at latheinserts.com) will leave a glass smooth finish.


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## mcbrat (Feb 22, 2017)

precisionworks said:


> Mick, are you using the tailstock with live center to support the outboard end of the tube?
> 
> Also, an aluminum specific insert (available from Curt at latheinserts.com) will leave a glass smooth finish.



yes, using a live center... 

also, this was just manual carriage feed, since I was had just finished the threading, and was moving to another threaded part.

and this was not aluminum, it was steel, so I was playing around with speeds, etc.....

on the head for this light, I ended up switching to a different tool and holder for a different threading tool, as the tiny HSS tool was too flexable. moved over to the AR Warner tool, re-aligned, and it works much better.


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## precisionworks (Mar 4, 2017)

Some tools are good at cutting different types of materials and other tools are optimized for one material. I have some of each and all of them are useful. The photo shows the tool holders that fit in the top tray of my roller chest ... plus two more drawers that contain various specialty tooling like knurling and grooving cutters. You'll reach saturation at some point and you'll know that time has come when you aren't searching the web or eBay for the tool you are missing. Fun stuff and not expensive if you shop hard on eBay for both tooling and inserts.


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## Dthoreson81 (Mar 4, 2017)

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> I agree.
> 
> mcbrat, Surely you realize haw many here would love to be able to create anything as nice on their first attempt? Or at all, for that matter.
> 
> ~ Chance



This. 

I had the privilege to use a manual lathe for about 48 hours over the course of two weeks during a Dunwoody college of technology machining certificate program. There's NO WAY, that what you've created is anything but great. Keep up the good work.


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## mcbrat (Mar 4, 2017)

Thanks. Still learning. Here's the end result from post 49...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/430715


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