# Sub $25 dollar lights with 4+ hours of runtime?



## sol-leks (Feb 19, 2010)

One problem with budget lights I've found is that while you can still get a very reasonable level of quality, you often get a lot of brightness with very little runtime. I understand that this appeals to flashaholics as well as myself, but it definitely turns off a lot of my friends.

I think a great introductory light for my nonflashaholic friends would be more on the flood than the throw side, use 2xAA's, have 1 or 2 modes with 1 of the modes being approx 50 lumens for at least 4 hours of runtime, preferably 5.
If this light existed in a neutral or warm tint, even better.

Of course my first thought is some of the romisens from shiningbeam, but I feel like a lot of the romisens are more throw oriented.

My next thought was the rc-c6 with an extension tube. I haven't done the tests but on its lower mode it should get over four hours supposedly. It's a little over 25 but pretty close. I think it would be nice if its modes were a bit more spaced out though.

Any other thoughts?

Of course some of the mainstream brands might be acceptable too like inova or maglite led or maybe duracell daylite.


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## old4570 (Feb 19, 2010)

200+ Hours ...


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## wingnut86 (Feb 19, 2010)

My RC-N3 WW will run 4+ hours on Energizer Lithiums for sure. The RC-C6 is available in WW as well.

I honestly think more throw is a better type of beam for an introductory light...Better to play with:twothumbs


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## Gunner12 (Feb 19, 2010)

The RC-N3 II or RC-N3 WW II from shiningbeam should be a good choice. It does have a more throwy beam due to the larger reflector, but spill should be pretty good. Throw would also make the light seem brighter too, so could make a good beginner light.


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## joe1512 (Feb 19, 2010)

The 2AA lights arent appreciably better than the 1AA or even AAA lights as far as brightness. They probably cost more too.


How bout the itp A3? They are available for 16-20 dollars and can use a AAA, and are rated for 4 hours on medium. With a L92 energizer (ultimate lithium), Id expect a lot longer. Similar A1 or A2 versions can use a AA (same output more runtime), or a CR123 (lots more power).

They are all small lights that can be attached to a keychain and thus handily available. I suspect few non-flashaholics will carry around medium-sized flashlights in their pockets. But a keychain one might be a lot more appealing since it takes up little space and won't be forgotten.


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## sol-leks (Feb 19, 2010)

Yeah these are all good choices and I've considered them, I just feel like they aren't quite right. I think the romisen II's from shiningbeam are pretty close though.


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## GeorgiaDave (Mar 8, 2010)

Maglite 2aa, 4 hrs+ runtime on rayovac aa's (inexpensive), then lights OUT. Pay cash, save your receipt and keep returning them until you get a good color temp. I would say about 50% have an acceptable color temp (for me). 

I LOVE Surefire, however no matter how much I try and convince myself, I cannot justify a Surefire for all of the places that I need a good light. The 2, 3, and 4 Maglite drop-in LED is a bargain if you already have an incandescent boat anchor to convert.

Initially the Maglite 2aa apparently didn't take-off at my local WM store, so they clearanced the 2aa's to $9 (THAT'S RIGHT, NINE DOLLARS). I bought a dozen and gave some away, keeping the non cat urine ones (Hey, I paid for them, right  ) for the kitchen, shop, cars, boat, etc.. One was Mag blue with a lanyard hole cap and great color temp. I Loaded them with aa Lithiums and they're there whenever the lights go out. Now the same store has them for twenty something dollars again. They never changed the prices of the 3aa? weird.

Always drop by the sporting goods/automotive/camping section in WM (or any other big-box for that matter) while your wife looks for home stuff. Sometimes you'll be amazed at what they clearance. I've picked up a pile of hunting hat lights, solitaire clones, lanterns, some at prices so low that I can trash them cheaper than replace the coin cell models. I would stay away from the 3aaa stuff (personal experience) GA dave

(PS ... I am in NO WAY affiliated with the above mentioned store/s, just relaying a method I've used numerous times to got some great bargains. Look for the red label on the end of the pegs.)


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## Surnia (Mar 8, 2010)

just under that is the TK-566-5, I have one and I've read (haven't really done an extended runtime test on it...) it can do just over an hour on high ("140" lm), 3.5hrs on medium ("70" lm), and 9hrs on low ("15" lm) for the 2AA config. All I know is, through intermittent use of low and medium (and the mode cycling required to get to it), I could keep using the thing easily for about 3 months before the cells approached being fully drained (I was only using about 150-200ma a week).


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## sol-leks (Mar 8, 2010)

Good call on the tank light I have always heard good things about them. Too bad it starts off on high though.
Edit: oh the 1xAA version starts off on medium. I think the 2xAA version is a better beginner light personally, but still a nice looking light.


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## sb56637 (Mar 8, 2010)

I agree that most of the cheap lights are just too bright, even in the lowest mode. But with my Tank007 TK-566-5 I have achieved around 9 or 10 hours of runtime with an EXTREMELY cheap, junky, weightless AA alkaline. My review of the TK-566-5 is here. And with both the programmable Akoray K-106 and its cheaper clone the Trustfire F20 you can get 18 to 24 hours or more with a decent alkaline. I reviewed both the Akoray and the Trustfire. Pretty decent runtime for the price. I wish they would just include a really low mode, though, it can't be that hard.


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## sol-leks (Mar 9, 2010)

Any 2xAA lights? These are both 1xaa.
Also don't you think the akoray might be a little too complex for alot of newbies?

Remember, this is a quest for a perfect introductory light.


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## sb56637 (Mar 9, 2010)

The Trustfire F20 5-mode might be good if you don't want to deal with programming. Just make sure you snug up the light module and clean it up a bit first before you give it to the person, as I mentioned in my review.

As for 2xAA lights, I currently have a Romisen RC-I3 on order from DX. There's a silver-blue-grey model and a black model available, both for $15.82. They are actually 1xAA or 2xAA with the included extender tube. The comments at DX indicate that they are now 3-mode Low > High > Strobe, fairly simple. A commenter says he got about 9 hours on low.


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## vali (Mar 9, 2010)

It seems they use the same pill in the RC-I3 than in RC-N3 now.

I have the old version. 3 hours runtime, whetever it have 2 or 1 cells. With 2 cells is just brighter.


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## sb56637 (Mar 9, 2010)

3 hours of runtime on high or low? I'm mainly interested in low runtime.


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## vali (Mar 9, 2010)

I have to correct the previous asumption. Thinking on it, it would be impossible to use the same circuit on both because the 1xAA configuration in the RC-I3, hence the need for a different pill.

According to BB tests, the original RC-I3 had the same runtime in 1xAA and in 2xAA, but 2xAA were brighter. I have it in my car glovebox in the 1xAA configuration. The 20 lumen or so it has in low is enough for me too.

Unfortunately I have no idea how the new version behave with the different cell configurations.


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## sb56637 (Mar 9, 2010)

Any idea what LED they are using these days in the RC-I3? There are no specs on DX.


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## GeorgiaDave (Mar 9, 2010)

sol-leks said:


> Any 2xAA lights? These are both 1xaa.
> Also don't you think the akoray might be a little too complex for alot of newbies?
> 
> Remember, this is a quest for a perfect introductory light.



I think your last sentence, coupled with "under $25", says it all. 

If I asked 200 people "I'm on a quest for the perfect introductory light under $200", what would that mean? You would get a BUNCH of different answers. What's perfect for one is another persons $200 total waste of time and money.

I guess one could ask "Which LED light under $25 is YOUR favorite, and *WHY?* That way you could compare *YOUR* needs (throw, batteries, brightness, etc.) to THEIR needs/likes and fulfill your quest . dave


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## sol-leks (Mar 9, 2010)

I have to disagree with you. Of course "perfect" is a very subjective term, but the perfect light, in my mind, for a newbie is not a really perfect light. A perfect light for a newbie is bright, but more oriented towards runtime. A newbie light runs on common batteries. A newbie light is relatively cheap. A newbie light is balanced between flood and throw but more on the flood side.

Mainly, I think the hardest thing to find in a budget light is a good balance between runtime and brightness, it is more often than not all one or the other.

I am pretty familiar with everyones favorite lights under 25 bucks trust me I see that kind of thread more than enough. This is something else.


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## vali (Mar 9, 2010)

I forgot to answer the topic question. For me, the perfect budget light for a newbie right now could be the RC-N3 from shiningbeam. I think most people who are only interested in "a flashlight" will find the strobe useless.

Most people put them in a drawer and forget about it until next blackout.


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## Surnia (Mar 10, 2010)

sol-leks said:


> Good call on the tank light I have always heard good things about them. Too bad it starts off on high though.
> Edit: oh the 1xAA version starts off on medium. I think the 2xAA version is a better beginner light personally, but still a nice looking light.



TK-566 that I got at least, came with an extension tube (there's two available on DX, one includes it) and the runtimes I mentioned are for the 2xAA configuration. The little indent on the extension tube looks weird, but its actually quite functional, very useful for maintaining grip. 

yes the thing starts on medium, its med --> low --> high --> strobe --> SOS (which is a proper SOS mind you, not the SOSOSOSO thing). Includes mode memory, threads at tailcap are annodized for tailcap lockout (might interfere with the modes so its best to clean off the contacts there, due to the anno being on the contact surface as well I've had inconsistent mode memory sometimes if you tighten it too much or too little)

*edit* forgot to mention, the beam pattern is ringy though... but for people coming off of those ancient incandescents, it'll be quite nice. The beam's more blue than my D10 Tribute, but less so than the Luxeons that Costco sold years ago. If you want a comparison beamshot I can get you one later, but a word of warning: I have near white walls, no actual white walls in the house...


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## sol-leks (Mar 10, 2010)

Could you give me the sku or link for the exact one you bought? I want to make sure if I buy it I get the right one. It def seems like one of the best choices I have seen so far. It doesn't start off on high, it has decent runtimes, it uses AA's and it is a fairly reputable budget brand from what I've heard. Thanks!


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## joe1512 (Mar 10, 2010)

Isn't runtime just a function of how much mAh the battery(ies) have, divided by how much wattage is used in a particular mode of the flashlight?

In general, the brightness is based on the Wattage of the flashlight mode, give or take a bit for LED efficiency and the driver efficiency. However, I didnt think the driver efficiency varied all that much between different flashlights. Does it?

A CR123 has about 1500 maH, which is 1.5 Amps x 1 Hour. Multiply times 3.0 Volts = 4.5 Watt/Hours.

Therefore a single CR123 will run 4.5 Watts for 1 hour, in theory.


A AAA L92 ultimate lithium has 1250 maH, but at 1.5Volts, so its energy density is less (of course). If you could use 3xAAA, that would be only a bit fatter than a CR123 light and have a bit more energy density overall.


Anyways, the point is that I didnt think the flashlight really had a whole lot to do with it. Obviously a lower lumen output is going to last longer. Therefore having intelligently spaced output levels is probably the best key to long runtime.
I think your original idea of a flood to throw (like the R6 C6 or whatever) would be useful. This would maximize the useful output of the light for a specific application. I wish there were higher powered lights (300+ lumen) with adjustable lens.


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## Surnia (Mar 10, 2010)

Its also in how the driver is made, the TK-566 although is a rather nice light, for equivalent output its far less efficient than current controlled models like the eagletacs or quarks. There's also a reasonably easy to detect PWM if you move something in front of it fast enough, although against a non moving object (or used as a light for walking) its not noticable, I found that I only picked up on it on regular usage after I got the D10 and compared low level outputs. I'm also inclined to believe the TK-566 throws further than the D10, but its rather difficult to tell, they're pretty close (obviously the D10 has a far nicer beam, but again its something you don't pay attention to unless you're told about it)

the SKU for the TK-566 I purchased is 18626, marked as a 3 mode running on a Q2 with 95 lumen peak. However, I can say that its about as bright as the D10 on max and MINE has 5 modes (I've heard DX gets sneaky sometimes, but my experiences so far have been reasonably positive) which correlates to the updated Q3 model with 5 modes at 140 lumens max on the Tank007 site. Anno is a little on the weak side, it wears off in contact against coins and the D10 (D10's anno is still fine) on the edges, but elsewhere its still black.


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## alfreddajero (Mar 10, 2010)

I would also recommend the N3.....nice and durable light.


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