# Need some milling jobs to be done (for Tritium slot). Also need lathe/machinist



## shiftd (Jan 31, 2007)

Anyone here with milling tool willing to help me put a tritium inside a flashlight body?

The flashlight body is Arc LS 2AA pack. I tried to measure and test fitting using my eyes and it seems that Bart's tritium can fit inside some part of the light

picture would show it better:







As the picture shows, it is possible (though it might be cutting it short) to put a tritium inside the fat part of the flashlight body(where it connects to the head). Other alternative would be to put it horizontally. Eitherway is fine with me, as long as the end result would have a smooth surface. 


I also need a tube extender to be made. It would screw on the butt (where the current kroll screw onto) and adds additional length of 0.8 cm to the total length. I know the threaded part can be a bit too thin, but since i figure the extender is only needed to hold the kroll, the it can tolerate the thinness of the wall. (someone please correct me if I am wrong).


please feel free to ask any question. I am sure the language that I, a commoner, speak is somewhat different to machinist language. Some wording/ sentencing might be a little off, but I tried =/

Please PM me for quote on the job (either or both). Needless to say, I prefer the jobs to be done by a single entity, since it would be easier to keep track of. 

thanks for looking


----------



## 65535 (Jan 31, 2007)

Not that I own a mill or anything but I could make that slot for you and expoy the tritium into said slot.and make it smooth.


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 31, 2007)

Just curious, how can you do a slot for a tritium vial without a mill? :huh2:


----------



## highorder (Jan 31, 2007)

please, do tell! I've been wasting my time with a mill all these years....

I'll work up a quote and get back to you.


----------



## 65535 (Jan 31, 2007)

I am just going to drill a few shallow holes then carefully grind out the slot with a tungsten carbide mini dremel tip.


----------



## tino_ale (Jan 31, 2007)

No offence made, doing such will never be even close to as clean as using a mill to machine a slot... (I'm not saying I cannot work)


----------



## modamag (Jan 31, 2007)

1/16" ball endmill do the trick nicely 
The pass is 0.262" x 0.080" depth to allow enough epoxy to protect the the tritium & recess so it doesn't get cracked on impact.


----------



## 65535 (Jan 31, 2007)

Reserved for product pictures, also a mill would be nice but for setting up a mill and shipping it would be rather expensive, I can make it look pretty darn nice and clean, also Im thinking makin gi a little more recessed than normal and fillign with a semi hard epoxy to make it smooth and protected. Just a question how well would a mill work with a x, y hand crank vice with a nice variable speed digital drill press?


----------



## modamag (Jan 31, 2007)

65535 said:


> Just a question how well would a mill work with a x, y hand crank vice with a nice variable speed digital drill press?



??? Confused ??? Rephrase please!


----------



## highorder (Jan 31, 2007)

he means the mill table attachments for drill presses. they are OK, but no substitute for a mill with a experienced operator.

I would not use a ball endmill. a centercutting two flute distributes the cutting forces better (in this application). high RPM's and a cold air gun will do a perfect job.


----------



## modamag (Jan 31, 2007)

Why would a centercutting 2F be better from your experience? The target tritium is cylindrical.


----------



## 65535 (Jan 31, 2007)

Don't forget the glue space!


----------



## highorder (Jan 31, 2007)

the 90 degree angle where the periphery of the cutter meets the face of the mill allows the cutting forces to align with the axis of the mill. it makes it tougher to snap off. another factor is the increased clearance between work and tool.

also, with a ball mill the slot needs to be (in this case) .0625" longer than the trit. I like the cleaner look of a shorter slot. what percentage of the light (guesses?) is radiated from the ends, vs. the cylindrical surface?


----------



## RPM (Feb 1, 2007)

shiftd, I'm not sure if anyone answered the question... but if this request is still needed... I do it all the time for my Lion Cub upgrades. I'm in SoCal and I'll make it very reasonable. Some samples.. Drop me a PM


----------



## shiftd (Feb 1, 2007)

Thanks guys for the replies.

Right now, I have the pack(s) handed to numbers simply because he is the first one to offer the service and the close proximity of his place to mine. Hopefully he can do it as neatly as yours, RPM. that is a nice piece of work! :thumbsup:

he promised to post picture of the finished product in this thread.

Highorder, I am still waiting for your pm (the quote?) because I still need the battery extender. 


Regarding the extender, I dont need anything fancy. No knurl or what not, as long as the kroll can screw in and the total length of the battery pack is extended by 0.8 cm.


----------



## gadget_lover (Feb 1, 2007)

The tritium slots can be made in aluminum without a mill. I say this only because the slot is so small and the depth is so shallow that it will not tax a drill press. The other thing to take into account is that the dimensions are not critical as there are no mating parts. Yes, you'd use a small end mill bit.

You can do it with a cross-slide vise or a milling table. You can even do it with a jig that slides along a fence. 

If you attempt this make sure you move very slowly to allow the bit to cut through the metal. This will minimize side torque. If you push hard from the side the chuck can be dislodged from the drill press spindle/arbor.

A drill press will not make a slot with the precision of a mill. It should not be used for deep cuts nor should it be used to where appreciable pressure is applied form the side. There will be a significant chance that the chuck will come free and ruin your flashlight.

As an alternative, you could also make a slot by drilling straight down and just glancing the side of the light. This leaves a groove that is open on both ends, similar to what you might get running a ball end mill across the area.

Daniel


----------



## PB92 (Feb 18, 2007)

RPM. Any update or pics on your work? Looks very nice.


----------



## cy (Feb 18, 2007)

anyone with a drill press can do this job. 

simply chuck end mill size desired. 
then purchase a compound sliding flat vise (x and y axis) . carefully clamp light, then move sliding vise like you would a normal mill. 

this will only work for light duty milling jobs. a tiny tritium slot will not place much side load on your drill press. 

I've seen compound vises for aprox. $39 at local Steve's whole sale tools.


----------

