# I have got a lathe



## Ledean (Apr 8, 2004)

I have finally bought a lathe fron HF for $399 plus tax.
I know it is cheaper to buy from homier but the web site says that they dont have it in stock .

It just came with the basic setup without any cutting bits.
What are the stuff required to get started in the tool department ?.Would appreciate any replies .
I am particularly interested in making the cr2 light.
I am aware that even with the excellent tutorials from Larry and Chop it is not easy.
Thanks
Ledean


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## wasabe64 (Apr 8, 2004)

Welcome!

I just got one myself!

Check out this thread: Link 

There is a lot of useful information there.


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## jtice (Apr 8, 2004)

Ah wonderful! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Welcome to the club /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Be patient, it takes a while to learn a few things,,, and a LOT of time to make things.
But its worth it in the end.


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## Phil_B (Apr 8, 2004)

A good place to start is a small bench grinder.It'll keep your drills sharp(you need to practice this),your lathe tools sharp(this will help you to understand your drill clearance angles),and works fine for pencils too(to work things out-paper is cheaper than metal).
You notice that as Jtice says,it all takes time to learn,and there's lots to learn.
Golden rule-Think twice,CUT once. 
It's rewarding too but have heart when you mess up,and you will.Before you know it you'll be turning out great custom gear!
Final thought? Think safe.Safety gear looks a bit naff but WILL do what it says on the box.
Let's see what you make eh?
(I know that was long winded but I do this for a living and love the enthusiasm you guys show,great work and it shows-good luck!)


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## jtice (Apr 8, 2004)

Yep, you will need alot of tools and parts.

i have about, hmm,, $300 in tools, parts, grinder, and Aluminum Stock.


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## lambda (Apr 8, 2004)

Guys, please go to http://www.mini-lathe.com/Default.htm and perform the set up adjustments. Even if your lathe is not exactly the same, there's a lot of great info there to get started.

Have FUN!


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## PEU (Apr 8, 2004)

I also have my lathe coming, but from china (http://www.dawei-equipment.com/product_show.php?show_id=722) 

Since it wont be here until june I'm reading a lot, buying some tools, reading a lot, and saving money for more tools. 

Already purchased a digital caliper and a meterman light meter LM631, on the way to be purchased are a QCTP, a grinder a tap set and may be some collets.

If not obvious already, I want to make some nice flashlights prototypes.

cheers


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## Chop (Apr 8, 2004)

Hey,

I don't think that you should speak my name in the same sentence as Larry's. I'm a beginner too. I'm only up on you by a couple of months.

I have to admit to being lazy, and being so, I've settled on a couple of things. I use indexable tooling. This in conjunction with a QCTP makes life a lot easier. For some guys, grinding their own tools is a part of the fun, it just isn't for me.

After having turned out a few lights in the last couple or few months, I can point out where the pains in the *** hit.

The HF 7X10 is a small lathe. It only has 8" between centers so you'll want to concentrate on small lights. In a way, this really isn't a bummer at all. I made some really cool single cell lights that would give many multi cell lights a run for their money.

This is the biggest PITA that I've run across. Cutting stock to a size that you can work. Even if you order stock in 1 foot lengths, you'll have a hellacious time trying to part a piece off in the lathe. I even resorted to ordering lengths pre cut to 4" so that I wouldn't have to deal with cutting it. I would recommend getting a tool of some sort to cut the stock down. Maybe an inexpensive or used band saw.

The only other thing that I can add is safety gear. Eyes and ears. Protect 'em. I use ear protection because I use a shop vac while turning sometimes, when I do reflectors. You'd be surprised at how quickly a piece of aluminum can wind up in your eye, and it's hot too.

Another tidbit is, "when in doubt, ask." That's what CPF is here for.


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## Ledean (Apr 9, 2004)

Thanks for all the replies guys.
I know i have to be patient but after waiting for months
i am itching to get on with it.
I have saved the money for the tools and did not want to buy ones i may not use.
All of you gave me wonderful tips. 
Yea i will keep the questions coming.
Thanks
Ledean


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## jtice (Apr 10, 2004)

Parting is HELL, ,,, for me at least, I break bits all the time doing it.

And, I am currently cutting my stock down to size, with a hacksaw !!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

I am serioulsy thinking of getting one of these soon.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search

You will need a wheel, that is NOT included.


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## McGizmo (Apr 10, 2004)

jtice,

Your link no workie? I'm curious as to your parting solution!!!


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## tvodrd (Apr 10, 2004)

There are some good tips in Lambda's link above. This one in particular. The old timers will sometimes tell you to "wiggle" the carriage back and forth to widen the cut and reduce binding. Another trick is to cut in a little ways, back out the cross slide, move the carriage about half the blade width and cut again deeper than the first cut. Hard to describe- use a 1/16" parting blade to cut a 3/32" wide parting groove. There's nothing wrong with a hacksaw, providing you have a decent bench vise, bolted to a decent bench, bolted to the floor. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry


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## [email protected] (Apr 10, 2004)

This perhaps? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif




PROFESSIONAL 3/16'' PARTING TOOL


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## jtice (Apr 10, 2004)

Ah, sorry, harbo freights site hates direct linking.

It just a metal cut-off saw.






Larry, thats exactly what I have been doing lately, helps alot. Stops it from bending as much.

Bart, I have seen those, and thats another thing I need to get real soon.
I hate grinding my own bits anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif


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## McGizmo (Apr 10, 2004)

Ah, now I understand! I have an expensive Makita "chop" saw with $300 metal cutting blade thatdoes amazing jobs on stainless steel tubing. For AL and other metals, I use a cheap import band saw or a Milwakee portable band saw (prefered).

Against Larry's wisdom, I use a hacksaw for parting all the time! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif With my new lathe and its rigidity, I can now use the parting tool on jobs that I couldn't have done on the old lathe. To be sure, in this realm, parting is NOT sweet sorrow; rather often a white knuckle ride!

BTW, if you do get one of the abrasive wheel chop saws, count on some smoke, dust and noise that the neighbors will not welcome.


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## Ledean (Apr 10, 2004)

So far i have only bought a set of cutting bars fron harbour frieght.
I want to buy some tools. I have set aside some money for it.
Reading throught the MSC And ENCO calalog leaves me more perplexed. They have so much stuff out there.
Could you guys tell me which ones to buy for the boring bars and the drilling bits .Something that you use for small flashlights.

Could you guys tell me what tools you got.
I am afraid to spend 300 bucks and discover that I can't use them.
I seem to be only looking at the catalog and not ordering . Is it con-fusion , conn-fusion ,
cone-fusion, can-fusion or can't-fusion ?
Ledean


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## tvodrd (Apr 10, 2004)

I have a 2HP abrasive saw at work. We only use it for ferrous materials like hardened steel. I *suspect* it might load up the wheel on aluminum, but I haven't tried it. Wood-cutting bandsaws will work on aluminum- I used one at home for years for that purpose. Blade life tends to be on the short side, but can be greatly improved by buying pulleys/belt to slow them down.

Larry


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## jtice (Apr 10, 2004)

Yes, I am wondering about AL building up on the blade also,
It did on my bench grinder.

Don, Hacksaw,, heh,,,
I bet I can do one better.
I have resorted many times, to placing the part in the lathe, turning it on, and using the hacksaw as a parting tool !!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Yes, it suckx,, alot, and is quiet tedious, to say the least,.

And, i bet its hell on my poor abused lathe.


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## Rothrandir (Apr 10, 2004)

i've got a parting tool which i ground from a 5/16 blank, but the tip is rather short (about 3/8"), and i'm able to part with it quite nicely up until it bottoms out, and i finish the cut with a hacksaw.

parting used to be *real* bad, but for whatever reason, i'm able to do it (the first 3/8" that is) quite well. i don't know what i've changed, but i guess with a bit of practice, it "works" for me now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif

really, boring is my least favorite operation. you can't really see what you're doing /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mecry.gif


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## tvodrd (Apr 10, 2004)

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif Boring is soooo _boring_ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Larry


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## Ledean (Apr 12, 2004)

Good one Larry.
Ledean


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## McGizmo (Apr 12, 2004)

Jtice,

I guess I wasn't being clear. I part with the hacksaw on the turning part while on the lathe as well. I often use the method Roth described. You guys who whine about machining Al need to log some time with stainless steel of better yet, Ti. When you come back to AL, you will be thankful! 

A DRO or digital dial indicator is very useful, especially while boring. You may not see what you are doing but at least you can know what you are doing to a certain extent.


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## MoonRise (Apr 12, 2004)

DRO, yeah. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Just don't hit the zero button in the middle of a cut. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif


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## jtice (Apr 12, 2004)

huh, the great master Gizmo uses a hacksaw on the lathe also!?!?!?! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

Heh, I dont feel as bad now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Still, it seems to shake the living hell out of my little lathe. hehe

I think I am going to order one of those cutoff bar & holders soon anyway.


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## Christoph (Apr 17, 2004)

Jtice
You mentioned AL on your bench grinding wheel.That is the quickest way to get a wheel to fly apart while its running it builds up heat as it melts the AL to the wheel.Aluminum or brass on a grinding wheel is a serious no no.
Just something told to me as a small boy learning to use machine tools.I come from a long line of machinists.
Chris /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## jtice (Apr 17, 2004)

Chris,

Thanks for the advise.
Yea, after that first time, I dont think I will do that again,,, 
It really had my wheel covered and messed up, till i took a wire brush to it,,,, now the wire brush is all messed up. LOL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif


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## Christoph (Apr 18, 2004)

Many types of wheel dressing tools heres one:
http://www.pratco.com.au/grindwheel.html
Chris /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## LEDboy (Jun 22, 2004)

I use a mitre saw with a special Al cutting wheel, and wax the blade before each cut. I use this on 3 inch Al bar and it cuts through in about a minute. The cut is so good, no furthur polishing is required.


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## gadget_lover (Jun 26, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*jtice said:*
Parting is HELL, ,,, for me at least, I break bits all the time doing it.



[/ QUOTE ]

I have only parted a dozen pieces, but I've not had a problem with the parting tool breaking or gaouging. It dug into the piece once when I had the cutting edge above the centerline. It siezed once when I was not coming in at a 90 degree angle. I've only done small parts, less than 1 inch in diameter.

I do use way too much cutting fluid when parting things. It facinates me to see the groove just get deeper and deeper.

I've a very slight angle (a few degrees) on the end of my cut off bar. I always end up with a little nipple sticking out from one side of the cut off part. The other side is smooth as butter. Can I avoid this by making it exactly 90 degrees on the end?

Daniel


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