# Olight S1 Mini Baton (Post #1 is now updated as review)



## rookiedaddy (Nov 19, 2017)

_So I was told I can post about this S1 Mini Baton on the 20th November 2017... it's 1:03am, 20th November 2017 at this side of the pond here...

2 versions available, Cool White 70CRI and a not so Cool White Hi CRI 90.

Available soon...
_

_ USB Rechargeable RCR123 battery included_
_ Max 600 lumens CW and 450 Lumens Hi CRI_
_ Dual direction pocket clip_
_ Magnetic tailcap_
_ TIR lens_
_ Timer function_
_ Low battery indicator at side switch_
_
I'm hoping my local distributor can get their hands on the HCRI stocks soon... I'm just curious how that XP-G3 90-CRI with 450 lumens and 5300-5500K would bring to the color rendering we see in real life..._
=== === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === === 
*Update 2017.12.17: Updating this post as a review
*
Due to Hi-CRI model availability, I have again agreed and received these 2 small and compact lights from Olight for review.

*Olight S1 Mini CW and HCRI*

Reviewer's Overall Rating: ★★★★★
Summary:





​*Pros:*


Small and lightweight
600 lumens Bright (450 lumens for HCRI model)
Micro-USB rechargeable RCR123A battery included (Micro-USB cable included too)
Instant access to Moon mode and Turbo mode
Dual direction pocket clip
Colour reproduction of HCRI model is good
Underrated lumens

*Cons:*


Magnet strength is much weaker than other Olight flashlights
Blue bezel ring is flush
Presence of artefacts in the beam profile
Turbo and low battery warning not available when using Primary CR123A

























The HCRI model name is printed at the tailcap.

*Features / Value: ★★★★★*
Retail at US$49.95, with plenty of coupon/discount codes and promotions especially during this year-end festive season, it's really a steal for such a small, compact and bright flashlight. The included micro-USB rechargeable RCR123A battery is plenty good and adds more value to the light as a whole. Olight even included a quality micro-USB data cable (yes, it can be use for both data sync and charging).

charging in action...





charging completed...





*Design / Build Quality: ★★★★★*
The build quality is of typical high quality from Olight. The anodizing is good. Modes switching is very stable via the side switch.





As we have direct access to Turbo mode via double clicking, memorizing Turbo mode is not necessary. I'm glad Olight chooses to leave Turbo mode out of memory group.





Only the high mode will be memorized for 10 minutes, not the Turbo as written in the User Manual. There is a workaround/surprise if you turn off the light in High mode and loosen the tailcap to lockout the S1 Mini. You will find that even after 10 minutes, when you then tighten the tailcap back and turn on the light, it comes back on in High and not reset to Medium. This is due to no power being supplied for the 10 minutes timer to work.





Loosening (>3 seconds) and tightening the tailcap will also disengage the electronic lockout mode.





The clip, the pocket clip, the 2-way pocket clip that is similar in design to FourSevens' Mini MKII but IMO is better by a tad bit because the clip covers the whole length of the S1 Mini unlike Mini MKII. This allows deep pocket carry both way while MKII only allows deep pocket carry in a head-down direction. Both are functional of course and the MKII design suits the twisty nature of the light and is probably why it is designed as such for better UX on the MKII while the electronic switch made this 2-way deep pocket carry clip on S1 Mini possible without compromise.





Unlike previous S-series model, the magnet at the tailcap is weaker, much weaker and possibly due to Olight trying to squeeze out every milimeter to make it the shortest possible light while still incorporates the positive design feedback of previous S-series model. One of the criticism when Olight released the S-Mini limited edition last year was the missing magnetic tailcap, some users have expressed they would like to see the magnetic tailcap return in such a small form factor light and IMO, Olight has deliver.
I also have in confident from Olight Engineer that one can "demagnetize" the tailcap magnetism by heating up the tailcap if one desire the non-magnetic tailcap on their S1 Mini. If you have a demagnetizer, that will probably do the job too.

Now, about that bezel design... not that I have any proof that it's not as good as the older S-Mini protruded bezel, but I have more faith in the protruded bezel protecting the flashlight head than the S1 Mini's flush bezel. It's just a personal preference.





The optic are different between the normal CW and HCRI model, the CW is using optic similar to S1 and S-Mini models, but HCRI is using a flat, lightly diffused TIR optic... probably trying to reduce the ugly tint-shift of the XP-G3 LED tho... above picture shows the clay imprint of the different optics used. From left, S1 Mini CW, S1 Mini HCRI, S Mini Ti Polished.







*Battery Life: ★★★★☆

*




The included Micro-USB rechargeable RCR123A is labelled to have 650mAH capacity, and following is the runtime tested...





Below included a runtime in Medium mode...




Above runtime is consider decent. A 4-star rating due to the light does not have Low Voltage Protection (LVP) and rely solely on the protected RCR123A LVP, this mean you should not use unprotected LiIon cell in the light. This also creates an issue for when running the light with primary CR123A as the warning RED LED will not function when using primary CR123A (besides the fact that S1 Mini doesn't goes Turbo mode when using primary CR123A).
The Low Voltage Warning function needs above 3.4V to function, where the RED LED located at the switch button will lights up when the Voltage goes below ~3.2V and continues to light up until the battery protection kicks-in. Thus, as good primary CR123A starting Voltage is ~3.25V, the Low Voltage Warning never comes into activation.




Picture showing the Low Voltage Warning activated when battery power is low.

*Light Output: ★★★★★*
My home-made lightbox gives the following readings:




Note that the above measured lumens are by no means authoritative nor an indication of over/under-stating the output by manufacturer (although in this case, I'm confident that Olight S1 Mini has mostly under-stating their lumens output). It's calibrated against some known output lights (e.g. Fenix, SureFire) so take it with a grain of salt and just as a relative reading.

measured current to be:




Standby current or parasitic drain: 25µA

About the artefact in the S1 Mini CW beam profile... yes, it's there. There is a cross/star shape artefact in the beam when white wall hunting.
What about the green corona and tint-shift in the S1 Mini HCRI? Yes, it's there too when white wall hunting.
Now, see below picture of the hard to capture artefact and green corona...





Ripples/PWM-effect in the light? Yes, it's there when taking the Optic front with a camera that can do ultra fast shutter speed except it's impossible for my eye to capture that no matter how fast I wave the light in front of myself like a crazy flashaholic.

So ignoring the ripples effect, what can we crazy flashaholic (I mean myself) do about that artefact and green corona? Well, I dug out my old magic diffuser film, cut a small round shape and stick it to the front optics... 




and...




Voilà! No more artefact and green corona (above pic shows what the diffuser film do to cast the green corona away, and I guess you just have to trust me that it also removes the CW beam artefact too).

*Summary: ★★★★★
*I think Olight has improves a fair lot since the S1 Baton released 2 years ago. Design and build quality of this S1 Mini is top-notch, the included Micro-USB rechargeable RCR123A battery is good, the 2-way clip is likely the best clip amongst all Olight S-series light and the HCRI model, although the beam is not as pleasing to look at as Nichia's 219B LED, but the High CRI part of XP-G3 90-CRI delivers. And the color rendering is as good as the Nichia R9050 LED.

I would whole-heartedly recommend this S1 Mini to anyone looking for a pocket/purse EDC light... and my personal preference would be the HCRI model of course. With the various price promotions this festive season, it's a good gift option to consider.

I'm gonna leave you with a couple of box shots of S1 Mini...


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## Nichia! (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I was hoping for nichia


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## Ozythemandias (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

High Cri cool white xp-g3 sounds gross, no offense


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## Nichia! (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Ozythemandias said:


> High Cri cool white xp-g3 sounds gross, no offense



[emoji106]


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## Ozythemandias (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Good news is that it’s XP so a 219b or c swap should be simple enough, I had to stick a warm XML2 in my SMINI


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## jon_slider (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



rookiedaddy said:


> [*] USB Rechargeable RCR123 battery included
> [*] Dual direction pocket clip


thanks for the pics

like the USB option

like the high CRI option 
(concerned the XP-G3 might have more green than I want, but, hope you post pics and win the lottery)

Here are a couple photos, I could not find an XP-G2 to compare



MEM said:


>


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## Tachead (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Looks like a nice light but, it sucks there are only cool white options. That eliminates it as an option for me. Looks like another non-reversible clip too which is disappointing. I wonder if they finally added an AR coated glass lens to protect the optic? And, I wonder if they got rid of the PWM on the moonlight mode?


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## Joe Talmadge (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

These are aluminum? If so, are these the first aluminum s1 minis? I don't remember seeing any aluminum in the past, could have just missed it


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## Ozythemandias (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Joe Talmadge said:


> These are aluminum? If so, are these the first aluminum s1 minis? I don't remember seeing any aluminum in the past, could have just missed it



These are new, I believe Olights intention is to phase out the S Mini as they were a limited edition and replace it with these


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## Tachead (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Ozythemandias said:


> High Cri cool white xp-g3 sounds gross, no offense



I have to agree. Not only is cool white not desirable but, I am guessing many will be pretty green tinted to boot depending on what bin they got. I don't understand why they are not offering a nice high CRI neutral white like 4000-4500K nominal. Olight always seems to miss the mark imo and it's too bad because they have some good ideas and design features.


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

manufacturer's pic with clip...

<< updated image coming soon... >>

and front of S1 Mini...

<< updated image coming soon... >>


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## gunga (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Nice. Just like my s mini with a 4sevens mini mark2 clip.


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## Boris74 (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Good to see they aren’t in the lumen race with this one. Just a purely useable light at a moderate lumen level. 

What actual users will want to know and talk about is what’s the other lumen settings and run times. Says usb rechargeable. So is it magnetic. Or is does the battery have a port on it. Is it their regular rcr123 or the H1R or S1R battery or is it an all new battery. What’s the battery capacity and draw. 

I am fine with cool white or neutral white as long as they don’t look brownish or Antarctic deep sub zero blue. Not really worried about white wall tints.


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Full specifications page from manufacturer... hopefully this would suffice and answer most of the questions you may have for now... well... at least until someone get their hands on these and do some testing... 

<< updated image coming soon... >>


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



gunga said:


> Nice. Just like my s mini with a 4sevens mini mark2 clip.



Looks like they paid some attention to the thread discussion on the Smini going with a Mini Mk II style clip. Looks good but I am in the 4000-4500K neutral camp so it won't be replacing my S1 or Smini neutrals.Wonder how the UI works ? There are some differences between the S1 and Smini. Might be worth getting one of the 5500K HCRI models eventually just for fun if the price is decent.


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## mightysparrow (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I agree that a neutral tint would be great, but this is a cute and handy little light anyway. I’m not certain how well the in-light charging works, given that I have no lights with that feature, but I’d give it a try and consider giving these as gifts, if the price is no higher than around $40.

Edit: just noticed the magnetic tail cap. That doesn’t work for me, as I need to carry too many magnetized secure access and ID cards to risk the magnet coming near them. Maybe it’s removable?


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



mightysparrow said:


> I agree that a neutral tint would be great, but this is a cute and handy little light anyway. I’m not certain how well the in-light charging works, given that I have no lights with that feature, but I’d give it a try and consider giving these as gifts, if the price is no higher than around $40.
> 
> Edit: just noticed the magnetic tail cap. That doesn’t work for me, as I need to carry too many magnetized secure access and ID cards to risk the magnet coming near them. Maybe it’s removable?



I don't think it is "in-light" charging, from the description it sounds like the battery has a built in USB port. The magnet is removable on the original S1 so hopefully it will remain the same on this light. The magnetic tail cap doesn't work for me either.


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## jon_slider (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



ZMZ67 said:


> I don't think it is "in-light" charging, from the description it sounds like the battery has a built in USB port.



I agree
like these, and they are protected










rookiedaddy said:


> manufacturer's pic with clip...


thanks for the pics, I think its really cool that the bezels give the led details
great gift item, thanks to the rechargeable cell
the protection gives me peace of mind also

and finally high CRi, not just low cri neutral
it also works as a cap light, and has a sublumen low
that checks a lot of boxes!

whats not to like?
(where is the buy it now button?)


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## Boris74 (Nov 19, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> I agree
> like these, and they are protected
> 
> 
> ...



My s Mini is the best carry all day and night and everywhere light I’ve ever owned. I’m not a white wall tint critic but I can say the NW in the limited edition Ti is perfect for telling colors apart in real use and it don’t blast back in your face like CW does straining the eyes. That battery would be the weak point. If its going to be a user light like this one will most likely be seeing it's made from recycled beer cans, it’ll get knocked around and dropped. Them batteries with the usb charge on them tend to not take drops as good. I’d keep it as a spare and run a 16340 that needs a charger, like I do with my current S Mini. The magnetic cap will be a go for normal users. If I were in a situation where I am carrying a card that is magnetic sensitive I’m smart enough to move it to a different pocket. There are plenty of times I use my H1R or S1R because I specifically need the magnetic feature and being a regular need to use user of lights, it’s a feature most will find a pro, not a con. If you’re buying it to collect it and don’t want a magnetic cap get one of the limited edition ones. In the overall picture the most expensive S Mini is very affordable. With the new beer can version coming out the LE ones will drop in price because they aren’t going to move once it comes out. Black Friday, there’s going to be a good sale at the Olight store dot com page. 😑

when available, I am going to get that clip though. Looks way better than the LE clips.


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## Nichia! (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

It doesn't make sense to me. Because why they choose cree for CRI they know we want nichia.


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## JeJe.us (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I absolutely love this light. It is small, compact and great for everyday activities. I carry one with me all the time. Along with my smaller ThorFire TS3A that I have in my collection. The Boton is extremely resilient to drops and damage as it has fallen various times and I am now approaching a year with mine. Love the light I would highly recommend it.


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## mightysparrow (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> The magnetic cap will be a go for normal users. If I were in a situation where I am carrying a card that is magnetic sensitive I’m smart enough to move it to a different pocket.



This is an example of why I am not participating in the CPF discussions much anymore. Boris: your rude and unnecessary suggestion about my intelligence level notwithstanding, it did occur to me that I could keep the light in a different pocket than my access cards. However, the risk of them coming into close proximity is still too great to take for me. I hope that clarifies my comments above sufficiently for you to better understand them.


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## Boris74 (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



mightysparrow said:


> This is an example of why I am not participating in the CPF discussions much anymore. Boris: your rude and unnecessary suggestion about my intelligence level notwithstanding, it did occur to me that I could keep the light in a different pocket than my access cards. However, the risk of them coming into close proximity is still too great to take for me. I hope that clarifies my comments above sufficiently for you to better understand them.



I go beyond magnets around my cards. I don’t keep anything electronic around them. Phone or light without a magnet and everything in between. I treat them like a compass. Even though I left my S1R on a smart chip card I rarely use and it did nothing to it after 30 minutes I won’t take the risk. I understood what you were saying. I just take it a notch up and keep awareness of what I’m doing and keep everything magnetic or electronic away from them.


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## moshow9 (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Nichia! said:


> It doesn't make sense to me. Because why they choose cree for CRI they know we want nichia.


Not everyone wants Nichia though. I personally wouldn't on a light like this.


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



mightysparrow said:


> This is an example of why I am not participating in the CPF discussions much anymore. Boris: your rude and unnecessary suggestion about my intelligence level notwithstanding, it did occur to me that I could keep the light in a different pocket than my access cards. However, the risk of them coming into close proximity is still too great to take for me. I hope that clarifies my comments above sufficiently for you to better understand them.



I am still hopeful that the magnet is going to be removable like it is on the original S1.If the magnet is permanently affixed then I will pass on this light.


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## maukka (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

They're clearly using different emitters for the low and high cri lights. Otherwise the lumen - candela difference would be linear and the HCRI would have 1875cd, not 1220cd.


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## jon_slider (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

there is no evidence that cells with usb chargers built in are more fragile, and no evidence that most people want a magnet

there is no evidence that the neutral LED in the SMini Ti is as good at color rendering as a High CRI LED. 

this is what the neutral LED in the Ti Mini looks like (click pic for full review)
focus on the red R9 bar, note it is a negative number


maukka said:


>



this is what an N219c 5000k High CRI looks like, again note the red R9 bar:


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## jorn (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



ZMZ67 said:


> I am still hopeful that the magnet is going to be removable like it is on the original S1.If the magnet is permanently affixed then I will pass on this light.



Phones got a cople of magnets  
Killing a magnet is a easy task, just heat it up to above 176° Fahrenheit (80° Celsius) and the magnet dies for good. Tailstanding it in a frying pan on low heat, tailstanding it in boiling water, put a lighter to it. It's a really simple task to kill that magnet if the magnet is your only drawback on this light  

I dont use my olight, im too used to the zebralight ui. So for me, the ui is the drawback.. Or not the ui itself, but my muscle memory from years of using my beloved zebras ruins the olight


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## Skaaphaas (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

It always amazes me how finicky people can be about lights. 

For example, I put my S1’s pocket clip at 90 degrees to the button. With this one that won’t be possible. While it will be a slight bother it won’t prevent me from buying one, though.

I would want the CRI version, simply because I have no hi-CRI LED lights, and my other S1 fulfils my other need. Hopefully the tint isn’t green as the guys are predicting, that would really be a bother for me.


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## jon_slider (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

my bet is the magnet is removable, like in this Pineapple inspired $50 Klarus version of a "USB rechargeable 16340" light. The Olight wins in the CRI department, but if you watch the video you will recognize many similar features as the smini...


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jorn said:


> Phones got a cople of magnets
> Killing a magnet is a easy task, just heat it up to above 176° Fahrenheit (80° Celsius) and the magnet dies for good. Tailstanding it in a frying pan on low heat, tailstanding it in boiling water, put a lighter to it. It's a really simple task to kill that magnet if the magnet is your only drawback on this light
> 
> I dont use my olight, im too used to the zebralight ui. So for me, the ui is the drawback.. Or not the ui itself, but my muscle memory from years of using my beloved zebras ruins the olight



I thought about trying the heat method before on a 4Sevens Atom but didn't want to damage the light or discolor the finish. Maybe the boiling water trick would be worth a try but I am not interested enough in the S1 Mini that I will spend the money and have to boil the tailcap.


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## ZMZ67 (Nov 20, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Skaaphaas said:


> It always amazes me how finicky people can be about lights.
> 
> For example, I put my S1’s pocket clip at 90 degrees to the button. With this one that won’t be possible. While it will be a slight bother it won’t prevent me from buying one, though.
> 
> I would want the CRI version, simply because I have no hi-CRI LED lights, and my other S1 fulfils my other need. Hopefully the tint isn’t green as the guys are predicting, that would really be a bother for me.



I think after using quite a few different lights many of us just start to get picky after a while.


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## jon_slider (Nov 21, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



ZMZ67 said:


> I am not interested enough in the S1 Mini that I will spend the money and have to boil the tailcap.



don't worry, the magnet is easily removed, its under the tail spring, as in this video
https://youtu.be/1WM18cy_DzY?t=1m01s

After Turkey edit.. that was wishful thinking, see post #36 for reality check


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## CelticCross74 (Nov 22, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Strange, none of my S Mini Baton's came with a magnet in the tail like the regular S1 Baton does. Even in the standard S1 Baton's case all you have to do is pull out the spring in the tail and the magnet should drop right out. 

As for high Cri, I am chalking up the fact that any "high cri"(nichia 219)looks 100% unnatural to me as being due to my pretty bad color blindness to a very specific portion of the visual light spectrum-RED, and any colors close to it. Whenever I have tried to use a Nichia LED "High Cri" light it looks so unnatural to me I end up turning them off pretty quickly. But hey that is my problem.

I still do NOT trust any rechargeable cell with "built in micro USB recharging". Time will have to pass for that one. I already have all the S Mini's anyways and all are still 100% bite sized, specialty metal micro wonders. Sure who does not like a bi-directional clip but the S Mini is already so darn small I am kind of at a loss at what difference a bi-directional clip would add.

The official Olight belt holster for all S1 Batons as well as any S Mini Baton is available on GG. It is tiny but works.


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## amanichen (Nov 23, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Any word on the TIR optic being revised? 

I found the original SMini beam far too narrow for close up usage, and even at medium distances it felt tunnel-ish. Maybe I'm just too used to the typical Zebralight beam spread. 

It's a shame because the SMini was an otherwise a great light, but I couldn't get past the unusable beam.


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 25, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

now... about that magnetic tailcap... I asked and they responded...
1. it's glued (superglued/epoxy).
2. if you don't want the magnetic function, heat it up and it will loose its magnetism.

from pics they shared, the inside tailcap looks similar to H1 Nova.


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## maukka (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


> They're clearly using different emitters for the low and high cri lights. Otherwise the lumen - candela difference would be linear and the HCRI would have 1875cd, not 1220cd.



Here's some spec sheets. They use different emitters (XM-L2 for the normal, XP-G3 for the high CRI). There's also a frosted TIR on the high CRI which will hopefully get rid of the Cree rainbow. It doesn't show up yet on their site, but I'm told it will be available later today at olightstore.com with a 10% discount (click here for a tracking link they provided).

What I don't understand is that the spec sheet says:
"This product is developed in response to the appeal of OLIGHT fans looking for the perfect warm LED tint."

But the high CRI light is listed as cool white anyway.


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


> ...
> What I don't understand is that the spec sheet says:
> "This product is developed in response to the appeal of OLIGHT fans looking for the perfect warm LED tint."
> 
> ...


Exactly! Don't know why they refuse to change it... suggested they can use "Neutral" instead of warm... and the original Chinese language version did not mention anything about the "warm" LED tint neither. :shrug:


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## Tachead (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



rookiedaddy said:


> Exactly! Don't know why they refuse to change it... suggested they can use "Neutral" instead of warm... and the original Chinese language version did not mention anything about the "warm" LED tint neither. :shrug:



I really don't understand why they would go with 2 cool white options. Why not neutral or warm white for the high CRI version? Or better yet, why not a cool white and a neutral or warm white both in high CRI? It's like they totally ignored the "appeal" made by Olight fans. I bet they will sell far less lights now. It sure seems like a terrible decision.


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## Boris74 (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> I really don't understand why they would go with 2 cool white options. Why not neutral or warm white for the high CRI version? Or better yet, why not a cool white and a neutral or warm white both in high CRI? It's like they totally ignored the "appeal" made by Olight fans. I bet they will sell far less lights now. It sure seems like a terrible decision.



There are maybe two dozen potential customers in the flashlight market who care about white wall tints. Everyone else will either choose NW or CW and be happy. White wall tint tests don’t exactly match use on multi colored objects. I don’t know what the new NW will be like but my s mini is extremely good, forget the tint test on white walls and graphs, I’m talking actual use on multi color settings inside the light beam. The fact people are passing judgement on text in advertisements and speculated graphs is just preconceived reasons to justify not liking something because they just don’t want to like it. Who will like it are those looking for a decent run time great useful beam of light with a good tint in either choice in a small easy to carry package. Being made from recycled beer cans will keep cost down from the exotic material SMini models, extra bonus. 

Their lights are great quality for the price compared to other brands and thats what looks like what is going on to me. It’ll potentially be better than a different choice someone made so they bad mouth it without ever using one or by parroting what they read someone say about actual use. Nothing anyone says will remove the S1R or S Mini from my pocket. I also won’t try to convince anyone what they have needs to be replaced with my choice. I like an easy UI and useable lumens with great run times on full (not progressively fading) brightness lights. Olight makes them so I use them. So will many others. Hardly anyone gets caught up in the lumen race or whitewall tint or graph comparisons. That kind of stuff don’t help when the lights go out or you drop something in complete darkness and you need to find it. 

“Oh man, someone on CPF posted a chart online, I will never find my keys now that I just dropped, maybe I’ll do a whitewall tint test to make sure” isn’t what someone thinks when they drop keys in tall grass in total darkness. Or need to shoot a raccoon that’s raiding a pole barn in the middle of the night so they can shoot it.


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## Enderman (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

That machining on the body tube looks great, very nice alternative to the standard knurling you see everywhere.


----------



## maukka (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Available now olightstore.com (non-tracking link)


----------



## Tachead (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> There are maybe two dozen potential customers in the flashlight market who care about white wall tints. Everyone else will either choose NW or CW and be happy. White wall tint tests don’t exactly match use on multi colored objects. I don’t know what the new NW will be like but my s mini is extremely good, forget the tint test on white walls and graphs, I’m talking actual use on multi color settings inside the light beam. The fact people are passing judgement on text in advertisements and speculated graphs is just preconceived reasons to justify not liking something because they just don’t want to like it. Who will like it are those looking for a decent run time great useful beam of light with a good tint in either choice in a small easy to carry package. Being made from recycled beer cans will keep cost down from the exotic material SMini models, extra bonus.
> 
> Their lights are great quality for the price compared to other brands and thats what looks like what is going on to me. It’ll potentially be better than a different choice someone made so they bad mouth it without ever using one or by parroting what they read someone say about actual use. Nothing anyone says will remove the S1R or S Mini from my pocket. I also won’t try to convince anyone what they have needs to be replaced with my choice. I like an easy UI and useable lumens with great run times on full (not progressively fading) brightness lights. Olight makes them so I use them. So will many others. Hardly anyone gets caught up in the lumen race or whitewall tint or graph comparisons. That kind of stuff don’t help when the lights go out or you drop something in complete darkness and you need to find it.
> 
> “Oh man, someone on CPF posted a chart online, I will never find my keys now that I just dropped, maybe I’ll do a whitewall tint test to make sure” isn’t what someone thinks when they drop keys in tall grass in total darkness. Or need to shoot a raccoon that’s raiding a pole barn in the middle of the night so they can shoot it.



Whoa easy there champ, I think you may need to take a chill pill :grouphug:. I didn't say anything about tint nor white walls. I was talking about CCT. And, no one will choose NW as their is no NW option, they are both CW. 

It's nice that all you care about is having light but, you have to understand that is not the case with everyone. That is why light companies like Olight are offering more then one option. Unfortunately, with this light though, there is no neutral white option which many people prefer.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


> Available now olightstore.com (non-tracking link)



Why are they saying the High CRI version is neutral white on their store? Did they change the emitter to a different CCT for the production version? 5500K is definitely cool white. Cree even lists it as cool white on the actual XP-G3 product page. If they didn't change it to a warmer emitter that is false advertising.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Whoa easy there champ, I think you may need to take a chill pill :grouphug:. I didn't say anything about tint nor white walls. I was talking about CCT. And, no one will choose NW as their is no NW option, they are both CW.
> 
> It's nice that all you care about is having light but, you have to understand that is not the case with everyone. That is why light companies like Olight are offering more then one option. Unfortunately, with this light though, there is no neutral white option which many people prefer.



I prefer NW too and I can easily say their NW Mini I have is great. Maybe they are trying to get away from conventional NW and I can understand why. The light I own with the perfect tint is a streamlight 1L-1AA and if you whitewall it next to the mini NW it looks cool, and if I whitewall it next to the S1R it looks an obvious neutral. It’s perfect right in between but it throws too much for honest up close work. Too tight of a beam. If they get close to the 1L-1AA tint in their NW, which it solidly sounds like, you’ll notice an obvious difference from the CW version with a far better useable tint. 

It wont be tech guy neutral but it will be user guy neutral and it’s obvious they’re catering to user vs graph reader white wall tint tester users. 

I am chill as can be. It’s kinda funny to see people getting all up in arms over text in advertisements and speculated graphs and speculated white wall tint tests. 

What I’d love to see is the tint compared to a 1L-1AA. the clip is nice, if the tint matches the protac along with that clip and the addition of a magnet might just make me get one someday. It’s like they literally listened to what users actually wanted in a small easily carried light.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> I prefer NW too and I can easily say their NW Mini I have is great. Maybe they are trying to get away from conventional NW and I can understand why. The light I own with the perfect tint is a streamlight 1L-1AA and if you whitewall it next to the mini NW it looks cool, and if I whitewall it next to the S1R it looks an obvious neutral. It’s perfect right in between but it throws too much for honest up close work. Too tight of a beam. If they get close to the 1L-1AA tint in their NW, which it solidly sounds like, you’ll notice an obvious difference from the CW version with a far better useable tint.
> 
> It wont be tech guy neutral but it will be user guy neutral and it’s obvious they’re catering to user vs graph reader white wall tint tester users.
> 
> ...



Tint and CCT are different things Boris. Neutral white is a range of CCT's that Cree defines as 3700-5000K(for the XP-G3 used in this model). Tint is the colour of the light and although it varies with CCT, it can also vary without a change in CCT(two lights with the exact same CCT can have totally different tints). I suspect Olight just chose these 5500K cool white emitters because that was the easiest high CRI ones for them to get at the time. 

Olight specifically made this high CRI version for their enthusiast fans. So, that is who they are catering to.

I think some people are just upset at the lack of a neutral white option with this light. And, all the information about the emitters they are using in these lights is available in Cree's spec sheets. One can make a pretty educated guess about things like the tint range by using these sheets.


----------



## maukka (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

It has been discounted even more down to $40 at least for now.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Tint and CCT are different things Boris. Neutral white is a range of CCT's that Cree defines as 3700-5000K(for the XP-G3 used in this model). Tint is the colour of the light and although it varies with CCT, it can also vary without a change in CCT(two lights with the exact same CCT can have totally different tints). I suspect Olight just chose these 5500K cool white emitters because that was the easiest high CRI ones for them to get at the time.
> 
> Olight specifically made this high CRI version for their enthusiast fans. So, that is who they are catering to.
> 
> I think some people are just upset at the lack of a neutral white option with this light. And, all the information about the emitters they are using in these lights is available in Cree's spec sheets. One can make a pretty educated guess about things like the tint range by using these sheets.



I agree. I’d have to look, I don’t know or care what LED is in my NW s mini Ti. I do know it’s very good when I use it. Same with the NW H1R. I also know they’re way different from their CW in my S1R. Just looked it up. XM-L2 for both CW and NW. huge difference in actual light emitted. I’m going to gather olight knows more about lights and LEDs than everyone here combined. Same LED with extremely different tints. 

Only reason anyone will not like the NW tint on it is because they got so worked up talking or reading about it online they’ll actually think they don’t like it. Anyone looking for NW and never read the online banter won’t know they’ve been scammed so horribly. They’re just going to enjoy a nice useable neutral tint is all.


----------



## Skaaphaas (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I’m getting one! Already emailed my pusher....uhm preferred supplier to speak to the importer.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


> It has been discounted even more down to $40 at least for now.



thanks for all the info, I got these images from your link.. clearly the High CRI is warmer than the Cool White
I look forward to your excellent CCT and CRI tests






for those curious about the NW and Cool White Low CRI LEDs in the Cu and Ti Smini, click pic for maukka's review:


maukka said:


> smini Ti, note the negative R9 red bar:


----------



## Tixx (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

After reading, going to hold off on this one for now since I'm only interested in NW.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tixx said:


> After reading, going to hold off on this one for now since I'm only interested in NW.




The high CRI photo, and labeling looks plenty neutral to me.

I am only interested in high CRI, and I like small lights.
This new aluminum smini is the first High CRI offering that I have seen from them. 

The LED is a bit more yellow/green than I like, but I have discovered that Lee filters minus green gel’s can work very well to correct that 

The titanium smini got my attention thanks to its neutral white color temperature, but the low CRI kept me from clicking buy it now.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> The high CRI photo, and labeling looks plenty neutral to me.
> 
> I am only interested in high CRI, and I like small lights.
> This new aluminum smini is the first High CRI offering that I have seen from them.
> ...



Those photos are just the same copy and pastes Olight uses for all models. They should not be used to identify what the CCT or tint will look like for this light. The high CRI version of this light uses a 5500K nominal emitter so it will likely range from about 5300-5700K depending on the particular sample. That is cool white and will likely look closer to the cool white picture depicted.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Those photos are just the same copy and pastes Olight uses for all models.



darn
thanks for pointing that out
ok, no click buy it now
wait for maukka to confirm CRI and CCT


----------



## Tachead (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> darn
> thanks for pointing that out
> ok, no click buy it now
> wait for maukka to confirm CRI and CCT


No problem. Also, keep in mind this light will likely still have PWM on the moonlight mode like the special edition Smini's. Like you said, we will know all the details when maukka hopefully does one of his great reviews.


----------



## rookiedaddy (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> ...
> I’m going to gather olight knows more about lights and LEDs than everyone here combined. ...


haha... you are joking right? :laughing:
I like their choice of NW XM-L2 used in the H1R too. :kiss:
anyway, I think maukka and I was confuse about their choice of words... and fwiw, yours truly did feedback to them when doing a proof read of their draft. hehe...

we were teasing the Olight representatives that Olight is so behind others in terms of quality of light, that their engineer don't believe in HiCRI but simply big lumens number, but apparently, they have been getting feedback from their distributors about High-CRI emitters... and POOFFFFF! a few months later a tweety bird was singing a secret message that they are cooking a high CRI light in their pot! Although I too was hoping they would go the Nichia route.

I pre-ordered mine last week with local distributor, now awaiting for their shipment to arrive. Olight said they are sending review samples over too... so we will see... and I'm eagerly waiting for maukka to get his hands on these to do his magic measurements. I'm really hoping I'll like their HCRI version tho... so I can start stocking up for gifts...


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 27, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



rookiedaddy said:


> haha... you are joking right? :laughing:
> I like their choice of NW XM-L2 used in the H1R too. :kiss:



No jokes. If they are saying they listened to feed back then they’re saying they listened to the most voiced feed back. Would you as a head of R&D looking for job security listen to the masses, or a couple dozen white wall and graph testers. It’s pretty safe to say more wanted what they put to market than the 0.00003% are voicing here. Just pointing out the obvious.


----------



## rookiedaddy (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

LOL! I wasn't referring to that...  but hey no worries... as long as at the end of the day we get to enjoy our light/passion... now I just envy you guys in the US of A gets that super deal off the RRP. Gggrrr.... :mecry:


----------



## Tachead (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> No jokes. If they are saying they listened to feed back then they’re saying they listened to the most voiced feed back. Would you as a head of R&D looking for job security listen to the masses, or a couple dozen white wall and graph testers. It’s pretty safe to say more wanted what they put to market than the 0.00003% are voicing here. Just pointing out the obvious.



Boris, I'm not sure you understand. I'm pretty sure it was the "white wall and graph testers" who asked for a high CRI model in the first place. Most normal users don't even know what CRI is and just want light that makes light like yourself. Two of the main people feeding us information in this thread (maukka and the OP rookie daddy)that are in contact with Olight(that's where they are getting this early information) are in fact "white wall and graph testers" as well so we wouldn't have even known about this light as early as we did without them. We also wouldn't be getting all the added information(thanks guys:thumbsup. Also, judging by what other brands offer, there are very few people that want a CW high CRI light. Most want a neutral or warm white high CRI model and I believe that is why we see so much criticism in this thread. 

Like I said earlier, I would bet they only are using 5500K XP-G3's because that was the easiest, cheapest, or all they could get in numbers at the time. Also, I bet they didn't go with a Nichia, even if they could get them, because that would require them to source or custom order a different optic as the current one is not compatible with Nichia's.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Boris, I'm not sure you understand. I'm pretty sure it was the "white wall and graph testers" who asked for a high CRI model in the first place. Most normal users don't even know what CRI is and just want light that makes light like yourself. Two of the main people feeding us information in this thread (maukka and the OP rookie daddy)that are in contact with Olight(that's where they are getting this early information) are in fact "white wall and graph testers" as well so we wouldn't have even known about this light as early as we did without them. We also wouldn't be getting all the added information(thanks guys:thumbsup. Also, judging by what other brands offer, there are very few people that want a CW high CRI light. Most want a neutral or warm white high CRI model and I believe that is why we see so much criticism in this thread.
> 
> Like I said earlier, I would bet they only are using 5500K XP-G3's because that was the easiest, cheapest, or all they could get in numbers at the time. Also, I bet they didn't go with a Nichia, even if they could get them, because that would require them to source or custom order a different optic as the current one is not compatible with Nichia's.



oh, I understand. They’re going to appeal to the masses, not 24 people on an online community. They’d go out of business if they did. For some reason this stirs up emotions. 

Most who buy one will compare it to normal any brand CW lights and enjoy the ability to identify colors instead of them being washed out. Users aren’t looking at graphs to look at numbers that aren’t even visible in real life use. They’re going to see better tints over CW any brand lights. 

There's nothing wrong with catering to the overwhelming majority who buy lights than the minority who will pass because of a graph. They won't even notice the revenue loss. In the end they win and the users win. 

My NW Mini is so much better than my CW S1R with the “same” LED that all this fuss is pretty pointless. It just reinforces a fact them charts are completely unreliable compared to end use. That’s all. Sorry if the “same” LED produces a better more useful tint, I’m sure olight is too.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

. Enjoy your new Mini Baton when you get it Boris.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> . Enjoy your new Mini Baton when you get it Boris.



Not getting one. Don’t have a need for it. The current Mini Ti is perfect. I guess perspectives are different when you need a light and when you want to know what 1 of 500 in a drawer will do, so you read charts and graphs to get an idea. Cool by me. 

What I can tell you is I’ve seen plenty of raccoons hiding in a crotch of a tree hoping to be passed by. Just about any CW washes out fur to look a lot like bark colors. The NW H1R makes that fur stand out. Same with the S Mini. Huge advantage. I’m sure there are charts and graphs out there to prove me completely wrong and I’ll laugh as I pass over them like always. Seeing the difference first hand in real use, yeah, them charts are pretty pointless. 

My requirements and needs differ from a flashaholics wants and hopes. I’m sure a Nichia would do just as good, so no you have to use or get this to any manufacturer or individual from me.


----------



## tedthebrit (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Moving away from tints a bit, has anyone noticed (or better yet verified) the published weights? S1 (aluminum) 30g. S1 mini (also aluminum) 43g. So it's smaller but 50% heavier? For comparison Smini Titanium is 30g, and in Stainless 49g. Does the new S1 Mini weight sound wrong or is it due to the larger stainless clip and bezel?


----------



## Tachead (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> Not getting one. Don’t have a need for it. The current Mini Ti is perfect. I guess perspectives are different when you need a light and when you want to know what 1 of 500 in a drawer will do, so you read charts and graphs to get an idea. Cool by me.
> 
> What I can tell you is I’ve seen plenty of raccoons hiding in a crotch of a tree hoping to be passed by. Just about any CW washes out fur to look a lot like bark colors. The NW H1R makes that fur stand out. Same with the S Mini. Huge advantage. I’m sure there are charts and graphs out there to prove me completely wrong and I’ll laugh as I pass over them like always. Seeing the difference first hand in real use, yeah, them charts are pretty pointless.
> 
> My requirements and needs differ from a flashaholics wants and hopes. I’m sure a Nichia would do just as good, so no you have to use or get this to any manufacturer or individual from me.



When you have been into lights as long as some of us have been Boris, you tend to get picky I find. Personally, I am a user and not a collector. I own very few lights and only consider upgrading when there is something special about one, it meets all my preferences, and suits the duty I intend to use it for. I also generally gift, give away, or sell off any lights that I am not using regularly or ones that have been replaced by a new model that serves the same purpose. I don't frown upon people who do collect though and accept that everyone is different, to each their own. Charts and graphs help to understand the strengths and weaknesses of a light so you can get the best value for your money and get a light that suits all your preferences, needs, and wants. You have to understand that everyone is different and we all have our own preferences and uses for a light. It is kind of rude to pick apart other peoples reasons for owning/buying a light and/or personal preferences imo. 

The reason your NW H1R makes the fur and bark stand out is warmer CCT's tend to enhance earth tones like greens and browns and don't cause as much glare and reflection compared to cooler CCT's. They also tend to have a slightly higher CRI even if they are not high CRI. The "charts and graphs" would not prove you wrong, they would confirm your observations. There is a lot involved with why lights look like they do and perform the way they do. The "charts and graphs" can help you understand the differences and help you pick lights that perform the way you want them to. It is your choice if you want to learn and use these resources though so, I we leave that up to you. 

Again, we all have our own needs, wants, and preferences. Picking lights is a subjective thing and we should all be accepting of others choices even if they differ from our own. I am glad you found a light that suits your needs Boris and I hope it continues to serve you well:thumbsup:


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

this is not true today:


jon_slider said:


> the High CRI is warmer than the Cool White



the website info changed 
it now shows CW for both the Low CRI and High CRI models





_"HCRI model color temperature: cool white *5500k, 90 CRI*.
Regular model color temperature: cool white *6500k, 70 CRI.*"_

Color temperatures over 5000 K are called "cool colors"



Clemence said:


>


----------



## Tachead (Nov 28, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> the website info changed
> it now shows CW for both the Low CRI and High CRI models
> 
> _"HCRI model color temperature: cool white *5500k, 90 CRI*.
> ...



I noticed that too. I am glad they changed it as it was not accurate before and could be misleading to potential customers.


----------



## Matt7337 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I wrote a long reply to this thread yesterday and hit the "post reply" button, but today the post is not here... so I'll try to remember what I wrote.

Is it just me or is Olight's product naming becoming a little confusing? I initially scanned over this thread not knowing that it was about a new light. 

I'm quite surprised to hear that people do not like the magnetic tail cap. In the case of my S1R Baton and H1R Nova, it is one of the most useful features. Those two lights have become my go-to for a headlamp and EDC pocket light in recent months, and whilst I think the H1R has a much nicer tint and floody beam than the S1R (due to the honeycomb lens) I can hardly fault either one.

If I had to give some constructive criticism, I would say that newer models could benefit from a coated glass lens as the TIR optic on my S1R is prone to getting scratched. Also I find that the pocket clip is too difficult to get on and off clothing due to the second grip point. I feel that it's unnecessarily tight and would actually damage some of my clothing if clipped on fully.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Matt7337 said:


> newer models could benefit from a coated glass lens



I agree the plastic optic is vulnerable to scratches. 
Its a trade off for smaller size.
The TIR is what makes the light shorter, because it does not require a deep reflector the way a glass lens does. 



Ozythemandias said:


> Good news is that it’s XP so a 219b or c swap should be simple enough, I had to stick a warm XML2 in my SMINI



how do you like the LED you chose, is it high CRI?
a Lee minus green filter can help reduce the XM-L2 yellow/green tint.

I hope someone verifies that the High CRI XP-G3 model actually uses a different optic than the XM-L2 low cri models... would be nice if the XP compatible TIR, could be sourced separately (a guy can dream), to build a Copper Mini w Nichia


----------



## Enderman (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> I agree the plastic optic is vulnerable to scratches.
> Its a trade off for smaller size.
> The TIR is what makes the light shorter, because it does not require a deep reflector the way a glass lens does.



This isn't just a regular lens. This is a TIR.
It would cost hundreds of dollars to have something like this made out of glass.
All flashlights with TIRs use molded acrylic.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Enderman said:


> This isn't just a regular lens. This is a TIR.
> It would cost hundreds of dollars to have something like this made out of glass.
> All flashlights with TIRs use molded acrylic.


They are talking about using a glass lens in front of the optic like used on many other brands lights, not about the optic itself. Many have criticised Olight's decision to use a bare acrylic optic including myself. It only would have made these lights about 1mm longer if they had designed it with a proper AR coated, scratch resistant, glass lens in front of the optic to protect it from scratches. Really, the bezel could likely be designed differently and it wouldn't even increase the length. It was a poor engineering decision imo.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> They are talking about using a glass lens in front of the optic like used on many other brands lights, not about the optic itself. Many have criticised Olight's decision to use a bare acrylic optic including myself. It only would have made these lights about 1mm longer if they had designed it with a proper AR coated, scratch resistant, glass lens in front of the optic to protect it from scratches. Really, the bezel could likely be designed differently and it wouldn't even increase the length. It was a poor engineering decision imo.



glass breaks and will even scratch. Coatings will wear or scratch as well. You can scratch up a TIR lenses and it won’t even be noticed in the beam. I have a TIR lense light from 05 and it’s all scratched up. Beam of light looks like when it was new.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> glass breaks and will even scratch. Coatings will wear or scratch as well. You can scratch up a TIR lenses and it won’t even be noticed in the beam. I have a TIR lense light from 05 and it’s all scratched up. Beam of light looks like when it was new.



Glass is much, much more scratch resistant especially if it is coated. And, a broken lens is easily replaced although it is not common to break a lens. I have never broke one in 25+ years of using lights and I am a tradesman and avid outdoorsman. Un-coated acrylic optics scratch very easily(especially on a bezel up carry only light like this) and it can be noticed in the beam depending on the amount and severity of the scratches. It is also reduces output and is an eyesore on an expensive light. Personally I prefer a lens to protect the optic and so do many other people but YMMV of course.


----------



## blueridgeman (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Even with the Mini going on sale, the regular S1 baton on sale for $39 with a good CR123 worked great for me. This is a quick pocket light for me when out walking my dog or dropping in my jacket on the run. I am impressed though so at some point may pickup the mini also. How small is too small? 500 lumens max is fine. I wouldn't even run it at the highest setting anyway for my use. I have other flashlights for that that take 18650s for things like that.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Glass is much, much more scratch resistant especially if it is coated. And, a broken lens is easily replaced although it is not common to break a lens. I have never broke one in 25+ years of using lights and I am a tradesman and avid outdoorsman. Un-coated acrylic optics scratch very easily(especially on a bezel up carry only light like this) and it can be noticed in the beam depending on the amount and severity of the scratches. It is also reduces output and is an eyesore on an expensive light. Personally I prefer a lens to protect the optic and so do many other people but YMMV of course.



I’ve broken lenses, I’ve also scratched glass lenses. Like I said earlier I have a TIR lense LED Light from 2005 that has been around the world three times actual. That TIR lense is well scratched up and the beam ain’t no different from the day it was taken from the package. I still use it to this day. 

Good news is the baton series lights are nowhere near expensive. Even the exotic metal ones, you can get three for the price of a surefire. Even better is the clip on the beer can Mini is lense up or down, the other batons have a reversible clip other than the exotic metal ones. So carry it lense down or flip the clip. 

TIR on a 12 year user and still going strong is all the testimony I need. I’ll stick with what I know over what I’m reading.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 29, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> I’ve broken lenses, I’ve also scratched glass lenses. Like I said earlier I have a TIR lense LED Light from 2005 that has been around the world three times actual. That TIR lense is well scratched up and the beam ain’t no different from the day it was taken from the package. I still use it to this day.
> 
> Good news is the baton series lights are nowhere near expensive. Even the exotic metal ones, you can get three for the price of a surefire. Even better is the clip on the beer can Mini is lense up or down, the other batons have a reversible clip other than the exotic metal ones. So carry it lense down or flip the clip.
> 
> TIR on a 12 year user and still going strong is all the testimony I need. I’ll stick with what I know over what I’m reading.



Like I said Boris YMMV(your mileage may vary). You seem to have an issue with accepting the fact that some people have different opinions and preferences then you. Everyone has different wants, needs, experiences, biases, etc. and some people are more observant, knowledgeable, picky, critical, demanding, etc. then others. People often have different definitions of what is expensive as well. Many people would think someone was crazy for spending more then $10 or 20 on a flashlight whole others spend thousands on custom lights without batting an eyelash. To each their own man, just because you are ok with or like something doesn't mean everyone else will be or has to.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Like I said Boris YMMV(your mileage may vary). You seem to have an issue with accepting the fact that some people have different opinions and preferences then you. Everyone has different wants, needs, experiences, biases, etc. and some people are more observant, knowledgeable, picky, critical, demanding, etc. then others. People often have different definitions of what is expensive as well. Many people would think someone was crazy for spending more then $10 or 20 on a flashlight whole others spend thousands on custom lights without batting an eyelash. To each their own man, just because you are ok with or like something doesn't mean everyone else will be or has to.



the mileage hasn’t varied is what I’m saying. Scratches and all, it’s like it is brand new. I don’t have an issue with “facts” or even opinions. What I’m saying is devoid of opinion or even “fact”. Just pure 12 years of very hard use changing nothing at all with output or beam quality. Oh sure it looks ugly scratched up and well worn but anything I illuminate with it won’t know of it’s unsettling to the eye appearance. I’ve been extremely observant the past 12 years using that light. I know the beam quality is the same it was day one. I took a cam corder video comparing it to an even older 6P when I got it. I confirmed after digging the video out. Same light it’s always been. Knowledge is nothing without experience. Anyone can read and have knowledge. I’m not OK with anything or even “like” any of my lights. They’re tools that get replaced when used to the end of their life. No one has to like it, but when I read scratches on TIR ruins beam quality, I know better and have the experience to know better. If someone wants to read about it that’s cool. I’m just saying just as of 5 minutes ago I confirmed once again, scratches on TIR do nothing to the quality of the beam of light. If the light deteriorated because of scratches, I’d be the first to toss that tool. 

In short when I read some of your posts I’m being upfront honest that it’s not the case with my lights. The text doesn’t match my real world use. 

At this rate the LED Lenser will go 2+ decades and I’m fully confident the Olight TIR will easily match that. Even with years of scratches on the TIR. I kinda base present and future decisions on my past experiences, not what I read about speculations from any source. Just how I do things. I’m sure some lurkers appreciate the unbiased many years of use experience report.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Yeah, I'm done. It's like talking to a wall.


----------



## Enderman (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Lens or TIR zoomies never have a glass lens in front.
Not only does that cause additional transmission losses, but it is completely unnecessary.

The reason lenses are used on reflector flashlights is because the reflector surface can easily get damaged and scratched, and and so can the exposed LED.
In a TIR or zoomie flashlight, there is no mirror surface, it uses total internal reflection (or no reflection at all for an aspheric zoomie) so no protection is needed.
The LED also sits below the TIR/aspheric which acts as a protection layer just like a glass lens would.

Scratches on the surface of a TIR or aspheric lens do not cause visible aberrations to the beam, unless the scratch is so deep that it would have pretty much broken through the glass lens of a reflector flashlights.
This makes TIR/aspheric flashlights a lot more durable because they do not have a delicate thin piece of glass on the front.
In the cases that a flashlight uses an aspheric glass lens, the lens is several millimeters or even centimeters thick, again far more durable than the thin lens on reflector flashlight.

The final point is that no, having a glass lens in front of a TIR is not a good thing because it makes it more delicate and reduces the total output by a few percent, while adding cost and complexity to the manufacturing process.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Enderman said:


> Lens or TIR zoomies never have a glass lens in front.
> Not only does that cause additional transmission losses, but it is completely unnecessary.
> 
> The reason lenses are used on reflector flashlights is because the reflector surface can easily get damaged and scratched, and and so can the exposed LED.
> ...



Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.

The losses from a good quality AR coated lens are less then 1%. Even a low quality coated lens is generally less then 3%.

It should be noted that every scratch on an optic lowers its efficiency and increases transmission losses. Considering the average acrylic optic already has losses of more then 15% it is wise to protect it to prevent further performance losses. 

Acrylic optics scratch very easily in my experience and it is not very hard at all to put a deep scratch in one that will show in the beam(even if it is only easily seen on the white wall). It should also be noted the acrylic can be damaged and/or discoloured by many chemicals including most insect repellents and gasoline. A quality scratch resistant coated glass or sapphire lens on the other hand can be very scratch resistant and if well engineered and properly protected by a bezel is very shock and shatter resistant as well. It is also impervious to most chemicals.

Personally, I would much rather have a flashlight with its optic protected by a quality scratch and AR coated glass lens. Even if the performance losses that the scratches, melting, and discoloration cause on an acrylic lens are not easily noticeable in normal use, I like to keep my things in good condition and it's nice not to have to worry about it scratching and/or being damaged so easily. Plus, replacement lenses are cheap and easy to come by in almost any size unlike some optics.


----------



## maukka (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Quick impressions on the S1 Mini. If you care about beam quality, skip the HCRI. The frosted TIR hasn't helped the tint shift. It's fine in the middle of the hotspot but turns very ugly right around it. The normal cool white version is alright.


----------



## Skaaphaas (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


> Quick impressions on the S1 Mini. If you care about beam quality, skip the HCRI. The frosted TIR hasn't helped the tint shift. It's fine in the middle of the hotspot but turns very ugly right around it. The normal cool white version is alright.


Eff


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


> Quick impressions on the S1 Mini. If you care about beam quality, skip the HCRI. The frosted TIR hasn't helped the tint shift. It's fine in the middle of the hotspot but turns very ugly right around it. The normal cool white version is alright.



Thank You!
that suggests to me that the optic is not designed for XP LEDs its probably the same optic they use on the XM-L2 models, just frosted. 

oLight's strategy of simply Frosting the XM-L2 optic, does not change the fact that the optic is designed for a wider LED, and creates an uneven colimation when using the smaller XP LED.

Now I can just click Buy it Now on a Copper SMini.. without thinking Im missing out on the High CRI option.. better to install a High CRI XM-L2 LED.. 

since the optic is not compatible with XP, it is not compatible with Nichia..

Since I do not use disposable batteries, it is too bad the oLight Minis are CR123 compatible and have no built in over discharge protection. That means it is unsuitable for unprotected LiIon.. 

I do like the 16340 with built in protection and built in USB charge port. That way if I gift a Mini to a non flashoholic, they don’t need to be invested in a LiIon charger, nor a Voltmeter.

Question
Does the 16340 w USB port fit a Copper SMini?

fwiw, I found the Copper SMini for $39 with code blacknovember at illumn.com


----------



## bartonjd (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I was looking at the Klaurus website and noticed that they claim 1h12m at 600lm. How long will the S1 mini baton maintain 600 Lumen output?


----------



## maukka (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



bartonjd said:


> I was looking at the Klaurus website and noticed that they claim 1h12m at 600lm. How long will the S1 mini baton maintain 600 Lumen output?



The S1 Mini gradually decreases in output during the first three minutes ending up at about 300 lm. Unlike Olight Klarus doesn't specify when the light steps down. It won't do continuous 600 lumens for an hour.


----------



## bartonjd (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

That seems deceptive but that's nothing new.

So is there any difference in brightness between this light and the SMini once the step-down has taken place? If not then I guess the only reason to buy this would be the magnetic tail cap it would seem. (If you already own an SMini)


----------



## Getflashed (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



tedthebrit said:


> Moving away from tints a bit, has anyone noticed (or better yet verified) the published weights? S1 (aluminum) 30g. S1 mini (also aluminum) 43g. So it's smaller but 50% heavier? For comparison Smini Titanium is 30g, and in Stainless 49g. Does the new S1 Mini weight sound wrong or is it due to the larger stainless clip and bezel?



There’s a review on YouTube https://youtu.be/l6mhvAsB6wc which verifies the weight with/ without the battery. I think the extra weight might be the magnetic tail cap. I’m getting one, ticks all the boxes for me.


----------



## bltkmt (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I ordered one - hi CRI. The fact that the battery is directly chargeable via USB cable makes this a perfect travel light for me.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

compare and contrast.. (corrections for accuracy invited)


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



bartonjd said:


> I was looking at the Klaurus website and noticed that they claim 1h12m at 600lm. How long will the S1 mini baton maintain 600 Lumen output?



Probably the same amount of time. The klaurus is going to step down at some point, it isn’t running 600 an hour plus straight. The S1R stays at 900 lumens for 90 seconds before it gets too hot and ramps down to high gradually. My S Mini Ti is the same but it only does turbo at 550. The high CRI in the beer can Mini isn’t neutral like the exotic metal ones. I like the NW mine has. So I guess the better tint is the trade off to not having a magnetic cap. If I did not have the S1R and H1R for magnetic Work I would be ordering one for sure. The regular rcr123 no USB port olight battery runs the longest of the rechargeable cells I use in all three of mine. Primaries start to fade out to quick for my liking. I prefer brighter longer with slightly shorter run time. I hate lights that have half the battery life left but aren’t full brightness. 

they are going to sell a whole lot of these things. Perfect sized lights with useable brightness and wide beams of light in the perfect size with an easy UI and long run times. It’s going to depocket many lights to become edc items for many to come here in the near future.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



bltkmt said:


> battery is directly chargeable via USB



congrats on clicking buy it now
Let us know how you like it.

I also like the USB chargeable protected 16340 LiIon feature, so I don't need to carry, or gift, a charger.
And I like that the new SMini and Klarus Mi1c have a low battery indicator, so I don't need to carry, or gift a Voltmeter either.

According to the website, the Klarus also has a battery level indicator, similar to Zebralight, so I don't have to wait for the Low Voltage warning.. when in doubt, recharge, but with the battery level indicator, less doubt, less frequent opening the light to recharge..

fwiw, the USB chargeable battery can be purchased separately, to use in other lights. Fenix and Klarus offer the USB chargeable batteries too.


----------



## Enderman (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.


"optics" refers to any optical component including TIR, aspheric lenses, or reflectors.
I made it pretty clear in my post that I was NOT talking about reflectors, I was only talking about* TIRs and aspherics*.
Go take a look for yourself, pretty much nobody puts a glass window in front of a TIR or aspheric, because it is useless and just makes it more delicate.
Reflector flashlights need a front lens because otherwise the reflector surface and LED are exposed.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc.



I checked the Oveready (expensive) and Emisar (cheap), and yes the TIR optics DO have a Glass lens over the TIR. I have not checked the others.



Enderman said:


> I was only talking about* TIRs and aspherics*.



Tachead does seem to know something you and I might not have been aware of. It was news to me too, since the only TIR lights I have are a Mecarmy PT-16 and PT-18, which have just a TIR with no Glass lens over it, like the SMini.

You are both right . A Plastic TIR scratches more easily than a Glass Lens. And Olight uses a TIR with NoGlass Lens.

Note the Klarus has a Glass Lens, but afaict from the pics, it does not use a TIR under it. That makes the Klarus a better choice if a mod to Nichia is contemplated.

I will be curious to see beam comparisons between the TIR SMini beam and the Glass w reflector on the Klarus.

The compatibility w Nichia, and the Battery Level Meter of the Klarus, plus the to me nicer clip of the Klarus, are keeping me from clicking Buy it now on a Copper SMini.. (I know what I would tell someone else, buy both! )


----------



## Tachead (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Enderman said:


> "optics" refers to any optical component including TIR, aspheric lenses, or reflectors.
> I made it pretty clear in my post that I was NOT talking about reflectors, I was only talking about* TIRs and aspherics*.
> Go take a look for yourself, pretty much nobody puts a glass window in front of a TIR or aspheric, because it is useless and just makes it more delicate.
> Reflector flashlights need a front lens because otherwise the reflector surface and LED are exposed.



Come in man, I was clearly talking about acrylic optics not reflectors. 

All of the manufacturers I listed use glass lenses in front of their acrylic TIR's and/or aspherical lenses. In fact, there are far more lights that do use glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses to protect their acrylic optics then ones that don't in my experience. I can list dozens of models that do if you would like. Or, you can just go to the manufacturers sites that I listed and see for yourself(you probably should have done this before trying to push your ill informed opinion as fact). I am sorry if I sound harsh but, I think I was pretty clear in my last post.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Come in man, I was clearly talking about acrylic optics not reflectors. Now you are just grasping at straws.
> 
> All of the manufacturers I listed use glass lenses in front of their acrylic TIR's and/or aspherical lenses(is that clear enough for you). In fact, there are far more lights that do use glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses to protect their acrylic optics then ones that don't in my experience. I can list dozens of models that do if you would like. Or, you can just go to the manufacturers sites that I listed and see for yourself(you probably should have done this before trying to push your ill informed opinion as fact). I am sorry if I sound harsh but, I think I was pretty clear in my last post.




There is grasping at both ends. You mentioned earlier that the acrylic risks being melted by flashlight LEDs. No it doesn’t. The battery will blow up at the heat it will take to melt it. It won’t even make it half way to its melting point of [FONT=&quot]320 °F before the battery blows up. If you traumatize a TIR lense enough to see the damage in the beam, then there isn’t a coated glass lens out there that will not be broken. TIR is far more durable, and no, scratches do not effect beam quality, they won’t melt, they will not break when a coated glass one will.......

Pros and cons on both sides, but you’re embellishing on the cons to TIR and making a few up while you’re at it. TIR is the right choice for the Baton series lights, but I wouldn’t want it on my HL-X, and I don’t want a reflector and lense on my Batons. [/FONT]


----------



## Enderman (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Come in man, I was clearly talking about acrylic optics not reflectors.
> 
> All of the manufacturers I listed use glass lenses in front of their acrylic TIR's and/or aspherical lenses. In fact, there are far more lights that do use glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses to protect their acrylic optics then ones that don't in my experience. I can list dozens of models that do if you would like. Or, you can just go to the manufacturers sites that I listed and see for yourself(you probably should have done this before trying to push your ill informed opinion as fact). I am sorry if I sound harsh but, I think I was pretty clear in my last post.


What's funny is that half the brands you quoted don't even make TIR flashlights, and the other half don't use any additional glass lens in front of the TIR.


----------



## bykfixer (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Guys, guys, guys.... high CRI is changed from light bulbs. Using light bulb charts and graphs to judge LED's is like using scissors to cut wires. Wrong tool for the job. 

Looking at the bottom photo in post 50 is a great way to tell what's really happening. 
The new Cree is getting really good at portraying all those other R's. Rating something high CRI because it has a good R9 is leaving out a ton of information. R13 for example. Fleshtone. Very important color to get correct as the eyeball uses that to judge other things. R3, R7, R14.... a nice flat curve is way better than some spike in the R9 that although appears more pleasing to the eye, lends a rosey tint to everything.

To those used to cool white the spiked R9 looks ridiculously over red. To those who are used to a higher R9 the cool white looks ridiculous. So ones habits also play a role along with likes or dislikes. If you're not used to a 12 volt incan everything takes on a brown tint. There is no right or wrong. It's preference vs preference. 

Ok, back to topic. Sounds like Olight has a winner here that should appeal to a lot of people.

As a photographer my photos lit by new Cree stuff are far more acurate than those lit by high rated CRI beams via boosted R9 or 12 volt incan for that matter. Mucho white balance issues result.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Enderman said:


> What's funny is that half the brands you quoted don't even make TIR flashlights, and the other half don't use any additional glass lens in front of the TIR.



Every brand I listed makes at least one model with an acrylic optic(TIR or Aspheric). And, every one uses a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lens in front of said optic. Some even use protective lenses on all of their models with acrylic optics.

Here is a list of at least one model from every company I listed(you can do some research if you want to check out other models that also do)...

Surefire - E1D LED Defender
Malkoff - MDM4 M91T
Oveready - Boss
Streamlight - TLR -1 HL
Inova - T3 Tiros
Armytek - Prime Pro
Emisar - D4
Manker - E14
Convoy S2 Triple


----------



## Zak (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

With 219Cs, R9 tends to be higher in cooler color temperatures. A high R9 doesn't require an abnormally rosy tint.


----------



## Tachead (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> There is grasping at both ends. You mentioned earlier that the acrylic risks being melted by flashlight LEDs. No it doesn’t. The battery will blow up at the heat it will take to melt it. It won’t even make it half way to its melting point of 320 °F before the battery blows up. If you traumatize a TIR lense enough to see the damage in the beam, then there isn’t a coated glass lens out there that will not be broken. TIR is far more durable, and no, scratches do not effect beam quality, they won’t melt, they will not break when a coated glass one will.......
> 
> Pros and cons on both sides, but you’re embellishing on the cons to TIR and making a few up while you’re at it. TIR is the right choice for the Baton series lights, but I wouldn’t want it on my HL-X, and I don’t want a reflector and lense on my Batons.



No where did I say there are risks of an acrylic optic being melted by a flashlights LED. That is ridiculous. No company would uses an acrylic optic if it would melt due to the emitter. 

Minor scratching might not be easily seen in a beam but, deep gouging, melted indentations, or the fogginess caused by certain chemicals certainly will. And, as I said, I like to keep my stuff in good shape and have found over the years a coated glass or sapphire lens holds up much better over the long term then bare acrylic for my uses. 

I am just stating the facts, the downsides, to using bare acrylic optics in a flashlight. It is up to the user/customer(you and I) to decide if they are ok with them or not. Everyone has their own preferences and we all use our lights in different applications so, what not be an issue for some might be to others. Myself, I prefer a glass or sapphire lens on a light that uses and acrylic optic. If you don't that's ok too:thumbsup:.


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.
> 
> The losses from a good quality AR coated lens are less then 1%. Even a low quality coated lens is generally less then 3%.
> 
> ...





Tachead said:


> No where did I say there are risks of an acrylic optic being melted by a flashlights LED. That is ridiculous. No company would uses an acrylic optic if it would melt due to the emitter.
> 
> Minor scratching might not be easily seen in a beam but, deep gouging, melted indentations, or the fogginess caused by certain chemicals certainly will. And, as I said, I like to keep my stuff in good shape and have found over the years a coated glass or sapphire lens holds up much better over the long term then bare acrylic for my uses.
> 
> I am just stating the facts, the downsides, to using bare acrylic optics in a flashlight. It is up to the user/customer(you and I) to decide if they are ok with them or not. Everyone has their own preferences and we all use our lights in different applications so, what not be an issue for some might be to others. Myself, I prefer a glass or sapphire lens on a light that uses and acrylic optic. If you don't that's ok too:thumbsup:.








> Even if the performance losses that the scratches, melting, and discoloration cause on an acrylic lens








Yeah you did. 

So to be clear, addressing what you have said, I will tell you there is no performance loss from scratches. There is no melting. There is no discoloration. I have a well scratched up TIR from 12 years ago and your statement I quoted has never been my personal experience. So as you can see I’m not making up what you said. I’m not making up what I said. I’m saying none of that happens in real life. I don’t care where you read it at or heard about it. All I’m doing is saying for information purposes to everyone else what you say, hasn’t been my experience, and I got more than a decades TIR light use to back it up. I really am sorry if that contradicts your thoughts or theories on the subject.


----------



## jon_slider (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

images sourced from maukka 
on the right is the Neutral white Low CRI led Boris likes for raccoons, it has slightly more yellow an is warmer CCT, than the Copper SMini. The Main difference is the Color Temperature, not the CRI






Low CRI NW is not in the same league as a Neutral White Nichia, not in R9, not in R13, nor any other subset of CRI factors. Note this is essentially identical Color Temperature as the NW TiSmini above right


----------



## Tachead (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> Yeah you did.
> 
> So to be clear, addressing what you have said, I will tell you there is no performance loss from scratches. There is no melting. There is no discoloration. I have a well scratched up TIR from 12 years ago and your statement I quoted has never been my personal experience. So as you can see I’m not making up what you said. I’m not making up what I said. I’m saying none of that happens in real life. I don’t care where you read it at or heard about it. All I’m doing is saying for information purposes to everyone else what you say, hasn’t been my experience, and I got more than a decades TIR light use to back it up. I really am sorry if that contradicts your thoughts or theories on the subject.



You seem to have a problem with reading comprehension sir. I did not say anything about the LED melting the acrylic optic, you just pulled that out of somewhere. I was referring to other things melting it like chemicals(I gave bug repellents as an example but, several other chemicals can melt acrylic too) and other outside heat sources. Certain chemicals will also discolour acrylic and/or turn it foggy. I once badly melted an acrylic lens on a motorcycle exhaust when I was working on it. Had it have had a glass or sapphire lens it would have been fine. I also put a deep gouge in an acrylic lens on a headlamp while rock climbing and it was quite visible in the beam after. 

You have to understand Boris, that your experiences in life can be different then others. I thought that was fairly common knowledge but apparently not:shakehead.


----------



## WDR65 (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> You seem to have a problem with reading comprehension sir. I did not say anything about the LED melting the acrylic optic, you just pulled that out of somewhere. I was referring to other things melting it like chemicals(I gave bug repellents as an example but, several other chemicals can melt acrylic too) and other outside heat sources. Certain chemicals will also discolour acrylic and/or turn it foggy. I once badly melted an acrylic lens on a motorcycle exhaust when I was working on it. Had it have had a glass or sapphire lens it would have been fine. I also put a deep gouge in an acrylic lens on a headlamp while rock climbing and it was quite visible in the beam after.
> 
> You have to understand Boris, that your experiences in life can be different then others. I thought that was fairly common knowledge but apparently not:shakehead.




Perhaps a new thread discussing the merits and drawbacks to tir optics and glass lenses is in order.


----------



## archimedes (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Feel free to debate the facts and issues, but please refrain from attacking each other personally here.

We'd like to keep CPF a friendly and pleasant forum. It's ok to agree to disagree, but all of you please make your point(s) without insulting others.

Thanks.

And I do think it might be time to move on from this particular point of contention


----------



## Tachead (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



WDR65 said:


> Perhaps a new thread discussing the merits and drawbacks to tir optics and glass lenses is in order.


I think it has been discussed plenty enough now lol. Your right, let's get back on topic. So, how about that new S1 mini[emoji3].


----------



## Boris74 (Nov 30, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*




Tachead said:


> You seem to have a problem with reading comprehension sir. I did not say anything about the LED melting the acrylic optic, you just pulled that out of somewhere. I was referring to other things melting it like chemicals(I gave bug repellents as an example but, several other chemicals can melt acrylic too) and other outside heat sources. Certain chemicals will also discolour acrylic and/or turn it foggy. I once badly melted an acrylic lens on a motorcycle exhaust when I was working on it. Had it have had a glass or sapphire lens it would have been fine. I also put a deep gouge in an acrylic lens on a headlamp while rock climbing and it was quite visible in the beam after.





Tachead said:


> You have to understand Boris, that your experiences in life can be different then others. I thought that was fairly common knowledge but apparently not:shakehead.




You think you’re slick. If that’s what you meant you’d of said it the first time. Hate to break it to ya, but my 12 year old TIR light has been around plenty of bug repellents. My lights don’t have a problem with bugs latching on to them so I don’t put bug spray on any of my lights. Beyond that, not all bug spray melts plastic. Picaridin is much more safe and keeps ticks off better too. It won’t melt your TIR. As to external sources of heat. Anything hot enough to melt a TIR lense will discolor a coated glass lens, and the battery would explode from high temp exposure. Any hit hard enough on a TIR lense to gouged it to the points of a distorted beam will break a glass lense. I’m speaking from past experiences. I’ll take damaged TIR over broken glass, it has better reliability and durability, your lucky you had a TIR lense light in your example of supposed inferiority. 

This is is on topic since more than a few think TIR in this application is inferior to other options. No need to try and avoid discussion why theories don’t stack up to real world. 

Honestly, it’s got to the point where I see your statements more like questions. Then you don’t like the answer. Fine by me, I know others get it. Especially them lurkers who might not have the slightest clue and actually believe some ofmthe stuff being said. Literally none of your statements come close to actual experience with TIR.


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## bykfixer (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> images sourced from maukka
> on the right is the Neutral white Low CRI led Boris likes for raccoons, it has slightly more yellow an is warmer CCT, than the Copper SMini. The Main difference is the Color Temperature, not the CRI
> 
> 
> ...





Even the area surrounding the graphs takes on a rosey tint


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## jon_slider (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



bykfixer said:


> Even the area surrounding the graphs takes on a rosey tint



LOL!  
My mind is made up, don't confuse me with the facts.

I appreciate your insights and observations... Im on the lookout for more R13 flesh tones.
Some people accustomed to Low CRI "_see no reason_" to change. 
That would be like insulting their investment in Low CRI relationships.

Cant wait to see the charts and graphs of the new High CRI SMini. 
Will it be Rosey.. or "Creen"?


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## maukka (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> Cant wait to see the charts and graphs of the new High CRI SMini.
> Will it be Rosey.. or "Creen"?



I already spoiled the results on reddit. It's not pretty.


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## jon_slider (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


>



thanks!
so Creen and Creener
how are the R13 flesh tones?;-)


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## maukka (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

CRI values don't matter when the light is so far from the BBL.


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## Skaaphaas (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Bugger. I hate green. I will have to cancel my order.


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## Tachead (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Skaaphaas said:


> Bugger. I hate green. I will have to cancel my order.


Keep in mind we don't know how tight of a bin Olight is using for this model so there will likely be some variation from sample to sample(possibly a lot). But, the XP-G3 has a reputation for being green so, it might still be wise to cancel your order if you want to be safe as the chances of getting one on or below the BBL don't look good.


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## jon_slider (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Skaaphaas said:


> It always amazes me how finicky people can be about lights.
> ...
> I hate green. I will have to cancel my order.



feeling finicky? 

maybe change your order to one of the Low CRI XM-L2 versions?
The CU SMini can be had for just $39

it appears to me that the High CRI model uses the TIR for the XM-L2, and it does not work with XP-G3, even frosted


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## rookiedaddy (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



maukka said:


> I already spoiled the results on reddit. It's not pretty.


LOL! Thanks for confirming... although I changed my pre-order to non HCRI version ~2 weeks ago after seeing one of the front picture of a model holding the HCRI version showing a great ring of greenish from the beam, I was still holding on to the hope giving it the benefit of doubts... :laughing:


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## Skaaphaas (Dec 1, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> feeling finicky?
> 
> maybe change your order to one of the Low CRI XM-L2 versions?
> The CU SMini can be had for just $39
> ...



Guilty!

I have an S1 Baton, so the low-cri version will be superfluous.


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## Olightworld (Dec 5, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I appreciate the input! I'll be working on here to make sure our customers' feedback is heard. We are always working to produce the best lights we can!


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## Boris74 (Dec 5, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Olightworld said:


> I appreciate the input! I'll be working on here to make sure our customers' feedback is heard. We are always working to produce the best lights we can!



I should get a bird dog fee. Almost everyone who sees or uses my S1R or SMini Ti end up ordering one. Same with the i3E on my keychain. Raw brass i3S is one of my favorites. Perfect in between cw and nw tint. Looks good patinaed up too.


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## rookiedaddy (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Just received the 2 review units today and I again changed my mind and reverted to buying myself a HCRI version... while I was there... just can't passed up a S Mini promotion that my local distributor is running and snapped a Polished Ti version too. :laughing: 






Gonna update post #1 with a review instead of creating a new thread... stay tuned folks...

edit: oh, and they gave me this... an improved version of Olight Pen Light...


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## InvisibleFrodo (Dec 12, 2017)

*Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Lol, I am not sure where you got that information from. Actually most lights that use optics do in fact have a lens in front of them to protect the optic and increase water resistance. A short list of examples of companies that use a glass, sapphire, or UCLp lenses over their optics are: Surefire, Malkoff, Oveready, Streamlight, Inova, Armytek, Emisar, Manker, Convoy, etc. Not to mention most custom makers lights as well.
> 
> The losses from a good quality AR coated lens are less then 1%. Even a low quality coated lens is generally less then 3%.
> 
> ...



LOL I don't think you read the original poster's words very carefully. What he said is accurate. Most of the companies you are listing do use separate lenses over optical systems such as reflectors, but not TIR optics, because the TIR optic is a lens. It seals against o-rings exactly the same way that the lens on a reflector does. Really I think Malkoff and OVEREADY might be the only ones with a lens over the TIR optic. But I believe that is largely due to the fact that those are modular "drop in" style lights. Particularly the OVEREADY, which is designed to have the optic and lens be user modifiable. Throw, medium, or flood optic, clear or frosted lens...


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## Tachead (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



InvisibleFrodo said:


> LOL I don't think you read the original poster's words very carefully. What he said is accurate. Most of the companies you are listing do use separate lenses over optical systems such as reflectors, but not TIR optics, because the TIR optic is a lens. It seals against o-rings exactly the same way that the lens on a reflector does. Really I think Malkoff and OVEREADY might be the only ones with a lens over the TIR optic. But I believe that is largely due to the fact that those are modular "drop in" style lights. Particularly the OVEREADY, which is designed to have the optic and lens be user modifiable. Throw, medium, or flood optic, clear or frosted lens...



You need to read further down in the thread man. All of the companies I listed use a lens over their TIR optics, I even gave examples. In fact it is far more common to use a lens over an acrylic optic then not to in the flashlight industry. I get a laugh from guys like you and Enderman who shoot off their mouth before even doing research:shakehead.


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## Capolini (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I have no complaints or arguments!!

I won this light in Olights give away last Friday! 

I chose the CW version only because of another review where the photos were not pleasing for the NW CRI90 warmer version.


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## Tachead (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Capolini said:


> I have no complaints or arguments!!
> 
> I won this light in Olights give away last Friday!
> 
> I chose the CW version only because of another review where the photos were not pleasing for the NW CRI90 warmer version.



Nice, congrats Capo:thumbsup:. Man you have been luck this year with draws eh:twothumbs.


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## Capolini (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> Nice, congrats Capo:thumbsup:. Man you have been luck this year with draws eh:twothumbs.



Yes I have! This is the Third light I have won,,,,Two in the last year!

1.SL2Cvn
2.Xtar- RC1
3.Olight S1mini


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## Tachead (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Capolini said:


> Yes I have! This is the Third light I have won,,,,Two in the last year!
> 
> 1.SL2Cvn
> 2.Xtar- RC1
> 3.Olight S1mini



Awesome:thumbsup:. I have only won one so far(Xtar Warboy H3W). I should enter more draws.


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## Capolini (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

^^^^^

iirc we both won a light in that Xtar draw!


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## Tachead (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Capolini said:


> ^^^^^
> 
> iirc we both won a light in that Xtar draw!



Yep.


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## Enderman (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Tachead said:


> You need to read further down in the thread man. All of the companies I listed use a lens over their TIR optics, I even gave examples. In fact it is far more common to use a lens over an acrylic optic then not to in the flashlight industry. I get a laugh from guys like you and Enderman who shoot off their mouth before even doing research:shakehead.


All the "real" TIR flashlights from led lenser, coast, olight, fenix, etc never use glass in front of the TIR.

Just because an overpriced flashlight manufacturer making $400 flashlights puts a lens in front of their TIR doesn't mean it is magically the correct option.
In fact, the reason they probably put the lens there is because they simply reuse the body from a reflector light, or just make drop-ins, that use a TIR and then need some extra spacing to make it fit properly.

Your examples even involved drop ins, which aren't even a full flashlight, just a conversion fro reflector to LED which obviously will need different spacing, or stuff like the convoy which doesn't have a glass lens in front of the TIR unless you mod it yourself.
LOL it's hilarious how you don't don't even mention the top TIR flashlight brands such as coast or led lenser and instead choose to convince yourself with false information


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## jon_slider (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

maybe you guys should get a room and have a private conversation

instead of arguing about who said what, about lights that are not the topic of this thread

fwiw, there is no glass lens on the S1 Mini.. thats just the facts

Im looking forward to buying an S1 Min High CRI, hoping for a post xmas sale, as a donor for my Cu S Mini, discussed here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...CR123-16340)&p=5162774&viewfull=1#post5162774


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## WDR65 (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I'm enjoying mine. I ordered the high cri version and have been impressed with the color rendition. I have an H1 nw and I noticed an improvement in what I could see with the hcri mini vs the h1. As for the splotchiness in the beam, I don't notice it outdoors or even anywhere except for directly shining it on light colored walls. 

I think I'm going to order another one, these little lights are addictive.


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## Boris74 (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



WDR65 said:


> I'm enjoying mine. I ordered the high cri version and have been impressed with the color rendition. I have an H1 nw and I noticed an improvement in what I could see with the hcri mini vs the h1. As for the splotchiness in the beam, I don't notice it outdoors or even anywhere except for directly shining it on light colored walls.
> 
> I think I'm going to order another one, these little lights are addictive.




In a bit over an hour they have a sale sale going on for the mini. 3 hours only from 0001 to 0300 hours. At the Olight store. Free i3E thrown in with it too I believe. That would be the time to get another.


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## Chauncey Gardiner (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



jon_slider said:


> maybe you guys should get a room and have a private conversation



Seriously gentlemen, please avail yourselves of CPF's PM option. :sigh: The horse is dead.  

~ Chance


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## CelticCross74 (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

I have so many Olights I have lost count. Sitting on my desk to my right are I think...all the current versions of the S Mini Baton minus the awesome brass one which is my favorite out of them all because it is the heaviest. Lost it somewhere amongst all my other lights. Got the new and to me almost instant classic status Hi CRI S Mini Baton as well a couple weeks ago. Everything but the highest output level looks GREAT! I am pretty impressed. But then double click for max and all the sudden everything looks like really bright yellow and spotty green snot. No biggie really. The just as tiny as the exotic metal S Mini's, Hi CRI S Mini's non max output levels still look great and are very usable.


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## jon_slider (Dec 12, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*



Boris74 said:


> they have a sale



in two days, Im tempted... Im guessing eastern standard.
_Olight S1 Mini - 30% OFF + 1pcs gift box I3E - Dec.15th 12:00-3:00 AM_

$35 is a good price.. I paid $36 for my Copper S Mini.. the beam is ridiculously green in the middle, coming from someone used to Nichias.. but no light is perfect 
definite photographable constant flicker on the first two levels


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## InvisibleFrodo (Dec 13, 2017)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Interesting to know about the flicker...

For whatever it's worth, the acrylic lens and the magnetic tail cap are potential deal breakers for me because I'm thinking about keychain carry, and for me the light transmission losses and the vulnerability to scratches as well as things like sparks and heat remind me why I try so hard to avoid acrylic lenses. A glass lens isn't impossible. Lens light uses them. Very thick. Super sturdy. My life experience with lights, especially those used at work, is that acrylic lenses get scuffed and scratched even just by trying to clean them and they do suffer reduced light transmission when it happens. The magnet is just annoying on the keys when it sucks up other stuff on the keys, or when it sticks to things while you are walking or working, or when it destroys the nice compass you carry on your keys and the compass no longer points north.


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## rookiedaddy (Dec 16, 2017)

Post #1 now updated with my full review of the lights... I'm quite happy with the HCRI despite the initial doubts reading other reviews with negative comments about the beam profile. In actual use, the color rendering is as good as those Nichia 219B R9050 LED.

Below are a few photos for comparisons...




















and a collage of selected lights from a group of 30+ photos taken...





you can access the full album here: https://imgur.com/a/gaXKQ


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## jon_slider (Dec 16, 2017)

thanks for the photos, including the control shot, and all the other LEDs

compare the color of the floor tiles and you will see the XP-G3 cannot match the Nichias ability to show Red:


rookiedaddy said:


>


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## rookiedaddy (Dec 16, 2017)

hey jon, yup, you are spot-on about the RED tone reproduction of the 90-CRI XP-G3. That is exactly where it is "under-doing" (or "under-performing"). However, as with most warmer tint, the Nichia of 4000K and 4500K are "over-doing" (or "over-performing") the RED tone and practically almost everything else. There is no doubt that the 4000K-4500K tint cast are more pleasing to the eyes but for overall accurate color reproduction, neither has any advantage over the other. 
from the group, the best color reproduction belongs to the Nichia 183 5000K... a tint-less experience... :kiss:


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Dec 16, 2017)

To Jon & rookiedaddy, thanks so much for those posts-they say a picture is worth a thousand words and I really appreciate the time it takes to provide control and consistency. The only tech equipment I had that did not have multiple backup redundancy on was my digital camera. When it broke I thought I could meet my needs with the camera on my IPOD 6.....wrong. Since the Four Sevens going out of business clearance sale has taken all of this years and next years budget, I have to hope Santa gives me a new camera....
Anyway, I have a pretty good collection of Olights-the only exception is that after getting every finish in the S1Baton series I did not buy all of "Mini" batons. I just took advantage of their sale and bought a black copper Mini S1. Thanks so much for the review, and Jonathan thanks for the PWM photo- that may have been why I did not jump into the Minis as fast as I usually do...


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## jon_slider (Dec 16, 2017)

rookiedaddy said:


> the best color reproduction belongs to the Nichia 183 5000K... a tint-less experience... :kiss:



congrats on your lights!
and thanks for the excellent photos!

Im glad oLight is offering higher CRI options than previous Minis, and also that they are Nichia compatible.

I almost ordered the High Cri, but for now, Im exploring the Low CRI experience of my Cu S Mini.. 
Coming from full time Nichia carry, the CW is so apalling, I find it comical.
Im amazed what a tint snob I can be, but, no light is perfect and Im loving my copper experience

Im secretly hoping 0Light will follow with a Copper High CRI S Mini... please let them know a Nichia is preferred.



Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> Jonathan thanks for the PWM photo- that may have been why I did not jump into the Minis as fast as I usually do...



well, don't blame me, I bought an S Mini anyway... lol
blame maukka: clic pic for his full review


maukka said:


> Possibly visible flicker on moonlight mode


and fwiw, its not really PWM, its actually constant current flicker...


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## proceed5 (Dec 19, 2017)

Rookiedaddy, Thank you for your pictures and efforts.

I was trying to avoid adding more small Olight lights to my collection.
One more won't hurt :thumbsup:


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## rookiedaddy (Dec 20, 2017)

proceed5 said:


> One more won't hurt :thumbsup:


Hahaha... exactly! one more won't hurt, two more is better! there is this 10th Anniversary Olight flashlight coming... I believe some forum members here has received theirs and posted their impression...


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## Skaaphaas (Jan 18, 2018)

Got mine yesterday. Went for the HCRI model to see what all the CRI hype is about. 

I’m not yet overly enamoured with this light. Yeah the tint is green indoors. Outdoors it’s not noticeable. 

The CRI thing isn’t overly noticeable to me either, although I won’t pretend that I cannot see a difference, especially on plants. 

It gets hot awfully quickly on turbo, and even generates quite a bit of heat on high. 

The magnet in the tail is just at the limit of nearly being too weak, I much prefer the S1’s magnet. 

The UI is more refined than the S1, and the pocket clip is really nice. The switch boot is also a noticeable upgrade. The fact that it is marginally lighter actually makes quite a difference in the pocket. 

I’ll give it some more pocket time to see if it grows on me, but at this point I get the idea that too many slight compromises were made to achieve this diminutive light, at an exceedingly high rate of diminishing returns.


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## leggera16 (Apr 30, 2018)

*Re: Olight S1 Mini Baton*

Excuse the crappy photo but I just ordered the new cw s1 mini and it looks warmer than my old sus one that was eithier neutral or cw too. I was expecting it to be the same or whiter but not too fussed. The old one appears brighter too but guess thats the 800 less beam intensity and nicer wide beam. I hate focused beams on pocket keychain lights.

Btw if you want to lose t




he magnet and get it down to 53mm the tail caps can switch and the old ones smaller 

Old sus one pictured right and new cw? Pictured left in beamshots. 






https://ibb.co/gBQDdc


https://ibb.co/hnvqPH


----------

