# Dereelight CL1H V3.0 Review! Picture Heavy.



## WadeF (Oct 20, 2007)

After getting a CL1H v2.0 and various modules I was excited to hear about a CL1H v3.0. Now, normally one might be annoyed that they bought a light only to have an improved version come out, but I was actually excited because I have extra modules so now I have another great host for them! As easy as it is to change modules and reflectors with Dereelight's system I thought it would be nice to have my v2.0 set up with an OP reflector and the 5-stage module, and the v3.0 set up with a 3-stage module and a SMO reflector. Of course I can re-configure them any which way any time I want.

At first glance it's not much different than the CL1H v2.0. Upon closer inspection it appears to be finished nicer than my v2.0, but only slightly since the v2.0 is also very well finished. 

The real changes are on the inside. My one concern with the v2.0 was the thin o-rings. The v3.0 has thicker o-rings, and more of them! Like the DBS there are two o-rings at each connection, and one around the glass lens. I think this is the same on the v2.0, but there is a plastic (teflon?) threaded retaining ring that holds the tailcap in place. This should great a good seal for the tailcap, which on some lights is usualy the weak link where water enters. This light should be very water tight! If it feel into a bucket of water I wouldn't be concerned at all. 

Operation is the same as the v2.0 and DBS. Forward clicky tail switch, momentary on, twist the body and head to change modes with the 2-stage pill installed, etc. 

Also heat sinking should be improved as the pill fits snuggly into the base of the head. At first I thought I had to unscrew the pill from the head, but I just had to give it a harder pull with the reflector screwed in and it popped right out. 

Included with the light are spare o-rings, a spare switch (just incase), and a lanyard. Of course it all comes in the regular Dereelight black box that is a nice way to store everything. Of course mine is stored in my pocket, night table, etc.  

Enough talk, time for some pictures! As always, you can click on each image to view a larger version, and you can zoom in more when you view the images on Google's Picasa web album site. This is where I turn into a copy and paste zombie:

Here's how things look when you open the box! Always a fun box to open!





Here's the light, looks familiar if you have a v2.0. The notches around the bezel's front, side, and the notches around the base of the head where it meets the body are a bit smaller than v2.0:





Another view, showing the clip. The clip is removeable, but I REALLY like this clip. I keep the light clipped in my left front pocket, and even in semi-tight jeans it's comfortable. You can even clip it on the outside of your pocket and light the ground around you. Did this once (v2.0) when nature called and I had to enter a dark porta-potty and it worked a little too well. I never want to see a porta-potty pit light up like that again. :sick2:





Side view. The "Dereelight" logo, model #, ser# look a bit nicer on the V3.0. The finish on this is flawless from what I can see. It feels great in the hand, and the clip's ring helps secure my grip on the light.





Closer shot to show more detail:





I currently have the 3-stage Q4 module installed (Have 3-stage Q5's on order), with a SMO reflector. You can actualy see a bit of me and my digital camera in the reflector.  





Close up view of the bezel, sorry for the bits of dirt on the white background, I might take them out later in Photoshop. 





Just a fun shot of the Cree Q4:





Picture of the tailcap, GITD tail switch cover installed. Tail switch cover can be replaced with a low profile black to allow the light to tailstand!





Here we have the head/bezel, body, and tailcap seperated. Notice the double black o-rings on each end of the body! Like the other Dereelights, nice deep threads. Mine came smooth, but I clean and re-lube just to be sure. I put a little Nylogel on the o-rings.





Going bigger with this one, hope it doesn't mess up anyone's browser. This is the CL1H with the head apart as well. You have the bezel, the protective glass window is secured in place with a threaded retaining ring and an o-ring infront of the glass to seal it. Notice the double o-rings on the head where the bezel screws onto. I coated these with Nylogel as well. The 3-stage module is on the far right with the SMO reflector attached the brass pill. I like the way Dereelight is now labeling their pills. I made the mistake of putting my 2-stage in, thinking it was the 5-stage, and I had the battery oriented for the 5-stage and quicky fried the 2-stage. Glad it's the cheapest of the bunch, so I quickly ordered a replacement. Of course it was my mistake, so I purhased a new one and didn't try to get it repaced. 





This is the inside of the base of the head. This is where the pill and reflector sit inside. With the V3.0 the pill makes a snug fit into the base to improve heat syncing. 





Close up of the CL1H's head.





Close up of the bezel:





Close up of the inside of the bezel.





May have to re-shoot this one, the top treads are a bit out of focus!  Close up of the body tube:






Inside of the battery tube. Dereelight added a longer spring to improve contact.





Here is the 3-stage WC Q4 module (pill and reflector). There were soe issues with the early 3-stage pills, but Dereelight has found the issue and corrected it. The new pills will be Q5's!





This is looking into the head with the pill installed. 






That's it for pictures for now. I don't have beam shots yet, but they would be the same as the CL1H V2.0. I will take beam shots when I get a Q5 pill.  I will probably add some other pictures of the CL1H V3.0 out and about. If anyone wants me to photograph any specific parts, let m know. I should add shots of the inide of the tail cap, such as shots of the switch, etc.

I love my CL1H v2.0 so I love the v3.0 as well knowing it has had improvements made to the seals, heat syncing, and contacts. 

Alan at Dereelight apprecaites feed back on his products and is always doing what he can to improve on them. I think at this point some people would like to see improvements made with the switch. I love the way the switch operates, but some question the reliability, longevity, and some may have experienced some problems. Dereelght has been including spare switches incase someone has a problem. 

I wouldn't let the switch issue stop me from buying the light and enjoying it. I know if a better switch becomes available it's as easy as replacing the switch that's in the tailcap, or just purchasing a new tailcap with the new switch. 

I have the CL1H v2.0, v3.0 and a DBS and they all use the same switch. All of mine have been working fine. 

BTW, the 3-stage module only works with 18650's. I use AW's protected 18650's.

That's all for now. Questions welcome.


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## robo21 (Oct 20, 2007)

As usual, excellent review and beautiful photography! :twothumbs When do you expect the Q5 pill?


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## Monocrom (Oct 20, 2007)

Careful Wade, you'll gain a reputation as the best Reviewer on CPF. 

Does the wire clip seem sturdy? Is it securly attached?


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## MikeLip (Oct 20, 2007)

In case Wade doesn't answer - the clip on this thing is awesome! Rock solid and very grippy.


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## WadeF (Oct 20, 2007)

Monocrom said:


> Careful Wade, you'll gain a reputation as the best Reviewer on CPF.
> 
> Does the wire clip seem sturdy? Is it securly attached?


 
Best reviewer on CPF? Nah!  I may put up nice pics, but there are plenty of guys giving us great run time charts, other technical data, etc. I'm happy to provide what info and images I can and hope to see more info from others with the means to provide it. 

The wire clip is VERY sturdy. It's heavy duty for sure.


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## WadeF (Oct 20, 2007)

robo21 said:


> As usual, excellent review and beautiful photography! :twothumbs When do you expect the Q5 pill?


 
Not sure. Alan may still be waiting on Q5's. Once he gets them I assume it would be a week or two before I'd have one in hand. I'm sure he'll keep us updated when they become available.


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## Monocrom (Oct 21, 2007)

WadeF said:


> Best reviewer on CPF? Nah!  I may put up nice pics, but there are plenty of guys giving us great run time charts, other technical data, etc. I'm happy to provide what info and images I can and hope to see more info from others with the means to provide it.
> 
> The wire clip is VERY sturdy. It's heavy duty for sure.


 
I'm a simple man.... I just need to be told what the runtime is, what the lumens numbers are, (hopefully Out the Front) and I'm happy as far as technical info. goes. But a nice, richly detailed pic and a couple of beam shots is often enough to make for a great review on CPF. So when a certain someone gives us _more _richly detailed pics.... :twothumbs

Thanks to you and MikeLip for the answer about the pocket clip. A sturdy clip is one of the main things I look for in a potential purchase. 

Also, thanks for letting us know one of the hidden advantages of bezel-down carry! :lolsign:


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## adirondackdestroyer (Oct 21, 2007)

WadeF,

How do you take such amazing pictures? I have a relatively outdated Canon 4 megapixel so I doubt I could even come close to what you are doing, but maybe their is something that would help a little for up close pics like the ones you take.

Back on topic...I have a CL1H V3.0 on route to me hopefully sometime this week (knock on wood). I'm going to be doing a corn maze next Friday night and the CL1H would really rock for that! It will be my first Dereelight but I'm sure I'll love it consider all the praise it has received around here. 

Another great review. Keep up the good work! :twothumbs


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

Monocrom said:


> Thanks to you and MikeLip for the answer about the pocket clip. A sturdy clip is one of the main things I look for in a potential purchase.


 
I know you like lights with clips. I wish I had more Surefires in my collection so I could give more comparisions as far as size, etc. Not sure if the CL1H is larger than what you are used to carrying around. I will say the 18650's are great. If you get a CL1H be sure to get a couple protected 18650's (so you have a spare) from AW an a charger and you should be good to go.  

If you're still on the fence wait until I get the 3-stage Q5 pill and I will do indoor and outdoor beam shots, take light readings, etc.

The 5-stage with SMO reflector already has impressive throw. I can spot things at 500 feet no problem, and faintly light up trees at 600-700 feet. Some thing more reflecive than a tree would probably light up fairly well at 600-700 feet, such as someone in light clothing. Of course the DBS would be better for the 600+ range. 

The CL1H 3-stage Q5 with OP would make a great general use light. It should throw 400-500 feet, and give a lot of light for closer range, like sweeping rooms, etc.

I'm just noticing this now, the v3.0 maybe a tad shorterthan v2.0. Maybe just be due to the way things are screwed together.


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> I'm going to be doing a corn maze next Friday night and the CL1H would really rock for that! It will be my first Dereelight but I'm sure I'll love it consider all the praise it has received around here.


 
Which module did you get? I'm sure you'll love it. They might accuse you of cheating when they see that thing going around the corn maze!  If you get lost or stuck in the maze just put it on strobe and be like "HELP! I'm over where it looks like a UFO is landing!" 

What batteries will you be using?


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## Monocrom (Oct 21, 2007)

WadeF said:


> I know you like lights with clips. I wish I had more Surefires in my collection so I could give more comparisions as far as size, etc. Not sure if the CL1H is larger than what you are used to carrying around. I will say the 18650's are great. If you get a CL1H be sure to get a couple protected 18650's (so you have a spare) from AW and a charger and you should be good to go.
> 
> If you're still on the fence wait until I get the 3-stage Q5 pill and I will do indoor and outdoor beam shots, take light readings, etc.


 
Normally I EDC my L4 or similiar-sized lights. Used to EDC a C2 (SF 6P with a clip and rubberized ring). I also have an L5. Probably the largest of my clip-carried lights. The bezel is huge! Still, not a problem to carry. I doubt the CL1H is bigger than my L5. Already have the charger, from Ultrafire. And a couple of protected Ultrafire 18650s. But I know those batteries aren't top of the line. 

Yeah, I'm still on the fence.... but I have a feeling you might put an end to that.


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

adirondackdestroyer said:


> WadeF,
> 
> How do you take such amazing pictures? I have a relatively outdated Canon 4 megapixel so I doubt I could even come close to what you are doing, but maybe their is something that would help a little for up close pics like the ones you take.


 
Forgot to respond to this. With photograhy one of the biggest challenges, and most important things, is lighting. You can have a 25 megapixel camera and if you have bad lighting, the pictures won't look good. With a 4MP camera, if you have good lighting, you can have great pictures.

I have been playing with some old studio strobes (2 flashes powered by a power pack) I have ha fo awhile. I have a softbox over the one, the other boncing off an umbrella and then through a diffuser. I have the light in a 3 sided box I made from white poster board, and a piece of white for the base. My goal was to try and get diffused, even lighting all around the light. I'm no lighting expert, but I know enough to get decent results. 

You can try playing with white cards (I like the white foam board they sell at craft stores, comes in big pieces, stays flat). If you don't have fancy lighting the sun can work. An over cast day is best if you can't put diffuser up. Use the white boards to bounce the light around. You can place the light on whatever scenery you want. I like the all white set up because it makes for a clean picture that keeps the focus on the light. 

My camera has manual settings so I can lock in the ISO to the lowest setting, shoot with the highest resolution, best quality mode, etc. Using a tripod can help, using macro mode if you are close, locking the white balance or taking a manual white balance can improve color accuracy.


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

Monocrom said:


> Yeah, I'm still on the fence.... but I have a feeling you might put an end to that.


 
The nice thing with these lights is their upgradeable. If Dereelight offers an improve tail switch, it would be a matter of ordering just that piece, and it would probably be pretty cheap. As new modules come out you can upgrade for a fraction of the cost of a new light, etc.

Any ideas for pictures?

You should just take a trip down here and we can take some beam shots of your lights and my lights. Haha.


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## Monocrom (Oct 21, 2007)

WadeF said:


> Any ideas for pictures?
> 
> You should just take a trip down here and we can take some beam shots of your lights and my lights. Haha.


 
I'm thinking beam shots, mostly. Perhaps next to your E2e and modded G2?

An apples to oranges comparison to be sure, but that would still help. 

I might take you up on that offer someday. 

Current work schedule a problem. And I'd have to figure out how I'd get all my lights down to PA. Not all my lights are clip-carried.


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## adirondackdestroyer (Oct 21, 2007)

WadeF said:


> Which module did you get? I'm sure you'll love it. They might accuse you of cheating when they see that thing going around the corn maze!  If you get lost or stuck in the maze just put it on strobe and be like "HELP! I'm over where it looks like a UFO is landing!"
> 
> What batteries will you be using?


 
LOL. To think my brother and I joked around about bringing the Sam's Club HID. 
I went last year and people were seriously impressed by the Streamlight 4AA Luxeon (this was before Cree's afterall), considering most of them were carrying $1 Everready's. 
I bought the 2 stage Q2 module. I know it's not the brightest module but it's bright enough for me and I love how how my L2T works and this one operates the same way. 
I'll be using a protected 18650 from AW that I just purchased last week. 


Thanks for the lesson on photography. I'm a real rookie so I doubt I'll be taking pics that even resemble yours anytime soon. :laughing: I take decent indoor real life beamshots which people seem to like so I guess I'll stop at that. Keep up the awesome work and I'll post back when my CL1H arrives.


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## Lighthouse one (Oct 21, 2007)

Wade, do you still have the fried 2 stage pill? Pm....I'll gladly buy it and replace the driver. 

I have the 5 stage...and don't care for the tint...I have a 3 stage on the way.

I'd like a one stage.


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## uh1c (Oct 21, 2007)

WadeF: Thanks much, great job!!
Qand my apologies if this has been answered before!:candle

On my CH1L, my pill is unmarked, the o-rings are gray and there is one o-ring in each location. Serial Number is DR070207, with a picture of proper battery orientation engraved. It is a 2 mode; SMO.
(I love it BTW!)

How can I tell whether it is V.1, or V.2? Can I drop in a Q5 pill when available?

Am I right in assuming it is a V.1, Q2 because the pill is unmarked?

Many thanks!:thumbsup:

(BTW, did I mention what a great light this is?)


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## martonic (Oct 21, 2007)

Terrific review and photography - thank you!


WadeF said:


> I like the way Dereelight is now labeling their pills. I made the mistake of putting my 2-stage in, thinking it was the 5-stage, and I had the battery oriented for the 5-stage and quicky fried the 2-stage. Glad it's the cheapest of the bunch, so I quickly ordered a replacement. Of course it was my mistake, so I purhased a new one and didn't try to get it repaced.


Whoa!

How do we know which way to put in the battery? I have a V3 coming and don't want to fry it for breakfast...


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## bspofford (Oct 21, 2007)

Nice review. I recently got the DBS 3-mode Q4 thrower, and I have to get this new CL1H v3. Looks like this is going to be my favorite general purpose light. I'm going to order one ASAP!


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

Lighthouse one said:


> Wade, do you still have the fried 2 stage pill? Pm....I'll gladly buy it and replace the driver.
> I'd like a one stage.


 
Actually I have some drivers that I may try to fit in it.  Alan does sell blank pills I think.


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

martonic said:


> How do we know which way to put in the battery? I have a V3 coming and don't want to fry it for breakfast...


 
It comes with instructions, but the only module so far that has the battery go in backwards (+ terminal towards tail cap, negatives towards head) is the 2-stage. This is so it can work with the twist to change modes.

The 3-stage and 5-stage modules have the + terminal towards the head.

To UH1C, not sure which version you have. If it came with a Q2 module it's probably the v2.0, but you can send Alan from Dereelight a PM and give him the serial number. The way you described it sounds like my v2.0, which I love as well.


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## orbital (Oct 21, 2007)

+

Another fantastic review Wade!! .:twothumbs

I see the main revision is the longer spring in the head.
I'm sure Alan and Deree saw the potential battery movement issues which caused some intermittent mode changing in V.2*.... now fixed .
Same spring as DBS it looks.

Glad to see you like your Dereelights, they are the real deal in every way!

* for V.2 owners, leave in the little screw in the tail, helps reduce battery movement.


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## uh1c (Oct 21, 2007)

Many thanks again Wade, I'll PM Alan.


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

Went to the park today. It was a nice day, warm for this time of the year, but I kept an eye out for spots to stick the Dereelight CL1H V3.0.  So here are more wall papers if anyone wants to use 'em. Just click to get to the hi-res version.

































Tweaked this one a bit:


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## Monocrom (Oct 21, 2007)

Nice ones, Wade!

Very nice....


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## orbital (Oct 21, 2007)

+






Wade, you outdo yourself daily,
these are the most creative light photos I'v seen! You have a good eye.

How do you like the new tail assembly compared to previous version?
It looks alot like the DBS with the switch slightly more 'inside' the cap.


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## WadeF (Oct 21, 2007)

orbital said:


> How do you like the new tail assembly compared to previous version?
> It looks alot like the DBS with the switch slightly more 'inside' the cap.


 
It works fine for me. I know some people like the tail switch to stick out more. I haven't tried the tail stand cap yet. I like the GITD. We need some GITD low profile tail caps for these lights. 

I had fun taking pics. I'm always seeing people take pics of their lights on stumps or what not, so I thought I'd try it. It's funny, because I was hoping to find a pile of red leaves to stick it in, and the picture came out like I had invisioned the day before. Now if I can get my hands on a digital SLR and a good macro lens one of these days I can start taking some really nice pics. 

I'm thinking about the Canon D40.


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## ernsanada (Oct 21, 2007)

Here's some pics of the Dereelight CL1H 1 gen.


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## orbital (Oct 21, 2007)

+





Can you imagine walking through the forest back in the 1800s' and coming across this light & turning it on?!!!

:candle:


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## nanotech17 (Oct 22, 2007)

WadeF,
nice indoor photos,i love those last 2 indoor photos especially the pill photo.
and you are killing me with those as well


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## Dogshund (Oct 22, 2007)

Hey Wade, Great photos, great review!

Next time your out taking some photos, can you get some with the light turned on? might be a nice effect!


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## horizonseeker (Oct 22, 2007)

how does the 3-stage and 5-stage function through the switch since it is a forward switch? I'm thinking about upgrading my 2.0. thanks

david.


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## WadeF (Oct 22, 2007)

horizonseeker said:


> how does the 3-stage and 5-stage function through the switch since it is a forward switch? I'm thinking about upgrading my 2.0. thanks
> 
> david.


 
Yup, 3-stage and 5-stage change modes by tapping the forward clicky tail switch. Basically turning the light on and off in less than a second will change modes. If you keep it on for 1 second or longer it will lock in that mode and start in that mode the next time you turn the light on.

Once I got used to it, pretty quickly, I was able to rocket trough modes. I had problem with my 3-stage Q4 module, but Dereelight has found the problem and has fixed it. I am just waiting for the new pills with Q5's to come.


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## uh1c (Oct 22, 2007)

Alan got back to me and mine in a V.2, based on serial number. It is compatible with a Q5 upgrade pill, when available.

Great pix Wade, now using one as my desktop. Thanks.


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## TKO (Oct 22, 2007)

Well Wade, you convinced me! I just put in a PayPal order for a Version 3 two stage with Q5 module and a optional OP reflector.

When the bill comes in, I'm giving the wife your name.:naughty:


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## sims2k (Oct 24, 2007)

WadeF,

How is the throw on this light ? Will this outhrow the L2DCE ? Or even my 2AA Mini maglite with the TLE-5EX drop-in...


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## martonic (Oct 24, 2007)

sims2k said:


> WadeF,
> 
> How is the throw on this light ? Will this outhrow the L2DCE ? Or even my 2AA Mini maglite with the TLE-5EX drop-in...


I just got CL1H V3.0 with the Q4 3-stage module.

With smooth reflector it outthrows all but the super-throwers like MRV, DBS, Tiablo etc. It outthrows D-Mini, M1 and even outthrows SL TL-3 (incandescent). The L2DCE? foggedaboudit.


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## WadeF (Oct 24, 2007)

sims2k said:


> WadeF,
> 
> How is the throw on this light ? Will this outhrow the L2DCE ? Or even my 2AA Mini maglite with the TLE-5EX drop-in...


 
With the smooth reflector installed it will easily out throw those lights.


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## orbital (Oct 24, 2007)

+

Hey Wade, quick question

does the tailcap for the V.2 fit on the V.3 body?


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## WadeF (Oct 25, 2007)

orbital said:


> does the tailcap for the V.2 fit on the V.3 body?


 
Good question. Just tried, nope. The V3 tailcap appears to be larger and drops over the threads of the V2. Just slightly larger. I think this is to accomodate the larger double o-rings on V3.

Looking for the tail switch to sitck out more? 

Maybe if Alan can source a higher quality switch he can offer new tailcaps for the V3 with a tailswitch that sticks out more. Maybe a little cap that would fit over the switch to extend it, with a different tail switch cover, etc. So you could still set it up for tailstainding, etc. Having the tail switch recessed doesn't bother me, but it depends on how you want to use it. I know when holding it with a pistol you want the tailswitch to stick out so you can push in on it with the back of your finger or knuckle, etc. 

I'd like to see a low profile GITD tail switch cover.


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## copperfox (Oct 25, 2007)

Anyone with a CL1H V3 and a Lumapower M1-R, please tell me the observed differences in the size of the hotspot and the brightness of the sidespill at medium distances (50ft) between these two lights. I have an M1-R and I'm trying to visualize the beam of the CL1H.


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## orbital (Oct 26, 2007)

+ 

copperfox, that would be a interesting comparison, different hotspot characteristics are really up to personal preference. I prefer slightly more flood.
Throwers are separate subject.

I'd like to see Alan put an SSC into his 3-mode 'pill' and continuing to use the best CREEs he can get his hands on.


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## WadeF (Oct 26, 2007)

orbital said:


> I'd like to see Alan put an SSC into his 3-mode 'pill' and continuing to use the best CREEs he can get his hands on.


 
An SSC U-bin would be fun, and of course when V-bins are available it would be fun to try one of those. 

SSC's would require a different reflector wouldn't it? Alan would need a SMO and OP SSC reflector.


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## orbital (Oct 26, 2007)

WadeF said:


> An SSC U-bin would be fun, and of course when V-bins are available it would be fun to try one of those.
> 
> SSC's would require a different reflector wouldn't it? Alan would need a SMO and OP SSC reflector.




Hi Wade, it may not need a different reflector, the upper rim of the pill may be high enough to compensate an SSC. 
If anything, the little flat lip around the base of current P60 reflectors could be drilled out before coating.

Could be worth a try....


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## copperfox (Oct 29, 2007)

copperfox said:


> *Anyone with a CL1H V3 and a Lumapower M1-R*, please tell me the observed differences in the size of the hotspot and the brightness of the sidespill at medium distances (50ft) between these two lights. I have an M1-R and I'm trying to visualize the beam of the CL1H.


 
I'm really interested. I know somebody's got to have both...


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## WadeF (Nov 19, 2007)

I forgot to get beamshots up! I have some of the 3-stage Q5 WF pills, which run the Q5 at 1A. I put one in the DBS with the smooth reflector and it's a little throw monster.  My one lux meter gave me 9,300 LUX at one meter, and it reads low compare to most of the other meter reading results I've seen by other CPF'ers. For example, a G2 incan is around 5,000 LUX on the same meter, and a Malkoff P60 Q2 is around 4,500LUX. Both of those are with OP reflectors though, and the 9,300LUX was with the SMO reflector from Dereelight. Still, for a smaller light than the DBS, Tiablos, MRVs, etc, it packs a punch in the throw department with these newer pills.  I'll get some out door beam shots up this week.


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## flash99dark (Nov 19, 2007)

WadeF ..I just got my first Dereelight product yesterday. It is a CLIH V3 one stage drop in module WF Q5 with both SMO and OP......WOW! This is the best $32 that I spent this year on any lighting/torch product. Think tip of welding torch bright. Just using it for a few minutes last night with the SMO reflector installed blew my mind. It will brightly light up a tight circular area at about 300ft* out of my back door to the top of an oak tree at the other end of our parking lot. I will go for an extended walk tomorrow night and use my GPS to get more accurate measurements for distance...what others here have been saying about this being a mini throw monster is 100% correct.

I have put the module in a Surefire C2 and also in an old Huntlight FT-01 that no longer had a working led and it works great in both. I am using AW 18650 and AW 17670 with no problem. Oh yes no whistle or any sound emitted...William

P.S. This is the first light that I have owned that I will not [for now anyway] do the shine in my eyes test!


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## WadeF (Nov 19, 2007)

flash99dark, yeah, it's pretty amazing what the CL1H can do with a SMO reflector and one of the new Q5 pills. Can't wait until it's sporting a R5 bin Cree or better.  Also the heat sinking is amazing, it warms up really fast compared to other lights I have with similar output. That brass pill and reflector make good contact with the aluminum head/body and it just wicks that heat away from the emitter.


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## orbital (Nov 19, 2007)

+



flash99dark said:


> WadeF ..I just got my first Dereelight product yesterday. It is a CLIH V3 one stage drop in module WF Q5 with both SMO and OP......WOW! This is the best $32 that I spent this year on any lighting/torch product. Think tip of welding torch bright. Just using it for a few minutes last night with the SMO reflector installed blew my mind. It will brightly light up a tight circular area at about 300ft* out of my back door to the top of an oak tree at the other end of our parking lot. I will go for an extended walk tomorrow night and use my GPS to get more accurate measurements for distance...what others here have been saying about this being a mini throw monster is 100% correct.
> 
> I have put the module in a Surefire C2 and also in an old Huntlight FT-01 that no longer had a working led and it works great in both. I am using AW 18650 and AW 17670 with no problem. Oh yes no whistle or any sound emitted...William
> 
> P.S. This is the first light that I have owned that I will not [for now anyway] do the shine in my eyes test!



Yep, the expandability and upgrade'ability on Dereelight is fantastic.

You can adapt them to your needs in a bunch of different ways, a true keeper...:bow:


----------



## MartinSE (Nov 19, 2007)

What's the problem with the switch? I've missed this. I've thought of sanding down the end of my tailcap to make the switch stick out more.


----------



## MartinSE (Nov 22, 2007)

Can not resist bumping this up, I really want to know what the possible faults with the switches are. Anyone had problems? If there are issues I'd like to know before I start sanding the sidewalls down making the switch more exposed.

Cheers!


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## WadeF (Nov 22, 2007)

If you want to sand down your tailcap to expose more of the tail switch (I assume you mean expose more of the rubber tail switch cover), I don't see any problem with that. 

My switches have been holding up so far. One of them needed a little adjusting with the switch contacts and the way they were contacting the metal tailcap, but it was a simple fix and it's been fine ever since.


----------



## Lobo (Nov 26, 2007)

Very nice photos, WadeF and Ernsanda. 
Could help notice the difference between the v1 and v3 in appearance. What else is different in the different versions? Can you use the same pill in all of them? And did they scratch the black version? Heard something about that.


----------



## WadeF (Nov 26, 2007)

In V3 the finish is better, harder (stronger) HA, better heat sinking, V3 is bigger (longer), the tail switch feels better on V3, my V1 it feels kinda mushy. V3 has better build quality, better o-rings (thicker), and double o-ring seals at the points where the light coms apart (single o-ring for the front lens). 

The V1 is smaller, which is nice, but it the V3 is better in every other regard. You can use the same pills. I have a 3-stage Q5 in my V1 with a OP reflector.


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## Speedball (Dec 7, 2007)

Would someone kindly show me a picture of this flashlight in your open hand so I can get an idea of just how big this light is? I'm on the fence about a Dereelight or a Fenix T1 as my EDC at work, light.

................PLEASE


----------



## orbital (Dec 7, 2007)

Speedball said:


> Would someone kindly show me a picture of this flashlight in your open hand so I can get an idea of just how big this light is? I'm on the fence about a Dereelight or a Fenix T1 as my EDC at work light.
> 
> ................PLEASE



+

Check out Wades review on the CL1H V2 (V2 & V3 same size)

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/173576

~For whatever its worth, my CL1Hs' are my most *versatile*/favorite light...


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## timcodes (Dec 7, 2007)

*BUGOUT q5 competition?*

Hello,

What do you think of the bugout q5? I think it will be a good competition on the v3.
I know the bugout isn't upgradable, but with the deep reflector (textured) will make the beam nice. It seems it is the deepest reflector of them all.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/181684

It's perhaps less flexible, but it seems to me, it's very close to the v3! 

Check how it seems to beat the M1, if you take a look: the v3 is compared here. 
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/162463

draw your own conclusion.... 

If you notice, the bugout doesn't have a spring to deepen the reflector? And if you see decree, regulation isn't flat on the 18650, I don't know about the bugout q5.

What do you think?


----------



## orbital (Dec 7, 2007)

*Re: BUGOUT q5 competition?*



timcodes said:


> Check how it seems to beat the M1, if you take a look: the v3 is compared here.
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/162463



That review by ernsanada is a V1 CL1H with an SSC :
(I see the CREE pic now) my bad.

New V3 are available with various P60 drop-ins. 
The digital outputs modules with Q4 & Q5s have very flat regulation,
....got a few of them.


----------



## Monocrom (Dec 7, 2007)

Speedball said:


> Would someone kindly show me a picture of this flashlight in your open hand so I can get an idea of just how big this light is? I'm on the fence about a Dereelight or a Fenix T1 as my EDC at work, light.
> 
> ................PLEASE


 
You can also just click on the Sig pic in any of Wade's posts. Then scroll down.


----------



## Speedball (Dec 7, 2007)

orbital said:


> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/173576


 
:thanks:


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## timcodes (Dec 7, 2007)

can someone confirm which is brighter, the bugout gear q5 or the cl1h v3?
which has more lux in 1 metre?

According to this light meter the bugout q5 was over 10000 lux.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/181684


----------



## WadeF (Dec 7, 2007)

You're comparing a drop-in module, with a flashlight. The CL1H V3 is just the flashlight, it all depends what you put in it. You could probably put a bugout gear Q5 in a CL1H V3. 

Now, Dereelight makes a variety of drop-ins for their CL1H V3 depending on what you want. You can also change the reflectors around depending on if you want a textured one, or a smooth one.

The new 1SD, 2SD, a 3SD Q5's will be driven at 1.2A. We are still waiting to get them from Dereelight, the circuit is being refined to reduce the whine noise heard when the circuit is operated at less than max output. 

I would expect the new module to be as bright or brighter than the bugout gear Q5. However, some have been saying the bugout gear has a deeper reflector than a standard P60 reflector, so it may have more throw, but it depends on how well the reflector was designed to work with the Q5. Maybe I'll have to order one to compare. 

Can someone link me to a good place to order the latest and greatest drop in from bugout gear?


----------



## timcodes (Dec 7, 2007)

WadeF said:


> You're comparing a drop-in module, with a flashlight. The CL1H V3 is just the flashlight, it all depends what you put in it. You could probably put a bugout gear Q5 in a CL1H V3.
> 
> Now, Dereelight makes a variety of drop-ins for their CL1H V3 depending on what you want. You can also change the reflectors around depending on if you want a textured one, or a smooth one.
> 
> ...



Ah yes, thank you for the reply. I believe the decree light smooth (furthest throw) is still not as deep as the bugout q5. It seems the bugout has no spring as if we to compare with the decree drop-in. 
I haven't seen either of the run-time graphs except this one:
http://lightreviews.info/dereelight_cl1h/review_2sd.html decree 2sd, and it is not a flat regulation.

Any clues where to find the run-time graphs?


----------



## MartinSE (Dec 8, 2007)

WadeF said:


> If you want to sand down your tailcap to expose more of the tail switch (I assume you mean expose more of the rubber tail switch cover), I don't see any problem with that.
> 
> My switches have been holding up so far. One of them needed a little adjusting with the switch contacts and the way they were contacting the metal tailcap, but it was a simple fix and it's been fine ever since.



OK, I did it and it looks like this:






Cheers.


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## I came to the light... (Dec 9, 2007)

Looking forward to the beamshots


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## Monocrom (Dec 9, 2007)

MartinSE said:


> OK, I did it and it looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
All I see is a white square with a red x.
For the love of everything flashaholic related.... Please use imageshack for posting pics!


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## MartinSE (Dec 9, 2007)

Monocrom said:


> All I see is a white square with a red x.
> For the love of everything flashaholic related.... Please use imageshack for posting pics!



hope it works now!


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## Monocrom (Dec 9, 2007)

MartinSE said:


> hope it works now!


 
Yup, works now! Thanks for the pic!


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## WadeF (Dec 9, 2007)

MartinSE said:


> OK, I did it and it looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Nice work! How do you like it?


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## MartinSE (Dec 10, 2007)

WadeF said:


> Nice work! How do you like it?



Thank you, sir. 

I like it much better. With the switch almost recessed behind the rim of the tailcap I had to have my whole thumb behind the tail to use the torch properly, now I can hold the torch more comfertably with more of it in my hand and less of it sticking out in front of my hand. It now works well with gloves on. The switch does not feel 100% solid and reliable, I think it might not be up to the quality of the rest of the torch. I'm toying with the idea of shortening the light even more by shortening the switch and sanding down the tailcap from the other end but I have not yet decided what to do. Some info in this thread

I really like the CL1H. Two nice improvements would be an overall shorter torch and much, much deeper knurling. It would probably also be awesome in 18500 shape.


Cheers!


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## WadeF (Dec 10, 2007)

The first CL1H was shorter than V2 and V3. Maybe V4 can go back to the shorter style, while still having the improved features of V3. They could expose the tail cap more (I think a tailstanding tailcap and tactical tailcap option would be nice, just screw on whichever you want, pay a little extra if you want both). 

The switch is probably the weakest link in the CL1H. Mine have been holding up okay so far, but one needed some adjustment when I got the light. I think they are having trouble finding a better quality switch. Hopefully they'll find one at some point, but they include a spare switch for now just in case. I haven't heard of a switch totally failing yet. If anyone has had one fail, let us know.


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## orbital (Dec 10, 2007)

+

MartinSE, I like what you did,
I too prefer more exposed tailswitch.

Lets see if Alan would make an 'exposed' tailcap upgrade for the V3. .


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## MartinSE (Dec 11, 2007)

orbital said:


> +
> 
> MartinSE, I like what you did,
> I too prefer more exposed tailswitch.
> ...



The torch is nicer to use now. Yeah, if he gets better and shorter switches it would be nice if he could sell new, improved shorter tailcaps.


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## garence (Dec 15, 2007)

This looks to be an impressive light--and I like the forward thinking of Alan to make the CL1H easy to accept newer modules.

What other lights would you say can be compared to the CL1H? What are the strongest points of the CL1H that would dissuade you from buying anything else?


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## Zenster (Dec 17, 2007)

The closest to the CL1H is probably the Lumapower M1-T, but the upgradeability of the CL1H (actually demonstrated by Deree) is what made me go with the Cl1H.
That, and the availability of the 3SD module giving a very low, a medium, and the high setting.

The one disadvantage of the CL1H is that the digital modules (2SD or 3SD) can only be used with 18650 batteries because CR123's will damage the module.
However, you can always do what I did and order the non-digital module (2SM) as an extra when you order the light because then if you end up at home with a power outage situation where you can't recharge, you can just pop in the 2SM module which is optimised for use with CR123 batteries (you can also use the rechargeable 18650 with the 2SM if you like with no problem).

But a few months from now when the R4's* start showing up, you can be confident that Deree will be right there with a new R4 upgrade for the CL1H (and their DBS as well).
_None_ of the other manufacturers have yet to be as quick with upgrades to their lights as has Deree.

*I only use the R4 as an example because, for me anyway, I won't be interested in upgrading the Q5's I have until the bins jump a couple of notches or more.


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## sims2k (Dec 20, 2007)

Great review. Very helpful indeed. Just one small thing ... the tailcap switch is not very work friendly ... to those wearing protective leather gloves at work. I really do not want to sand down the tailcap to expose the switch. I would rather have a switch that is usable for people wearing protective gloves at work.


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## MartinSE (Dec 23, 2007)

Alan, can you hear us?

Please create for us nice new *shorty* tailcaps with glove-friendly switches for christmas!


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## MrMom (Dec 29, 2007)

MartinSE said:


> OK, I did it and it looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Martin, Excellent work!!!!! Funny thing, many of my lights tail end look just like that. I am very interested in owning a Dereelight but will hold off on my purchase until the manufacture corrects the *ergonomic design defect* of a recessed tail switch. Tail stands are fine for shelf queens but are a HUGE liability to actual daily use.

If there is still any doubt..., this post is another + 1 to your mod.:twothumbs


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## WadeF (Dec 29, 2007)

MrMom said:


> *ergonomic design defect*


 
I think there should be two tail cap options, tail stand capability, or tactical. I like my tail cap slightly recessed as if you drop the light there is less of a chance of the switch getting smashed. We've seen several reports of SF tail clickies breaking from a simple waist high drop. This can happen to any light with a protruding tail switch. Adding points, like on the Fenix T1 can help. It's hard to please everyone.  I wouldn't call it a design defect though, as some people prefer the tail cap the way it is. Although I'm all for options, accessories, upgrades.


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## Zenster (Dec 29, 2007)

MrMom said:


> Martin, Excellent work!!!!! Funny thing, many of my lights tail end look just like that. I am very interested in owning a Dereelight but will hold off on my purchase until the manufacture corrects the *ergonomic design defect* of a recessed tail switch. Tail stands are fine for shelf queens but are a HUGE liability to actual daily use.
> 
> If there is still any doubt..., this post is another + 1 to your mod.:twothumbs


 
I think "ergonomic design defect" is a bit harsh. You may personally not like a recessed switch (and I don't either in some situations), but when I lose power at the house and it goes dark, virtually EVERY light I have that can tailstand ends up doing so.

Ironically, I was very happy to recently get a Delrin recessed tailcap for my E1L so that it can be turned into a "tail stander" plus protecting the switch if dropped like I do all my EDC's .
Since the CL1H just barely sits on the fence of EDC desireability, I'm thinking that it's probably best to protect it's switch from dropping as well.

With all that said, I totally agree with Wade that it would be a no-brainer for Deree to offer tail cap options for both the CL1H as well as the DBS. If/when available, I would most certainly order them both immediately if for no other reason than to simply have the "option".
I mean, jeez, it takes like, 5 seconds to switch caps, so having both would be a big plus.

I'd say to go buy the CL1H for all it's other great features, and if you want a protected cap, just disassemble the cap and hold the end of it to a bench grinder for a moment or two until you've exposed the switch to where you like it. If you then finish it up and polish the ground surface, it'll look really cool and "customized", and since it's aluminum anyway, you sure won't have to worry about rust or anything that will degrade the look.
Or.... grab a can of flat black spray can paint and paint the modded tailcap so it looks intentionally "ugly". Then, you can tell people that's it's not just a "tactical light", but that it's been through a couple of squirmishes to prove it. :thumbsup:


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## sims2k (Dec 31, 2007)

Glad to see someone else talking about the tailswitch options. I would buy the protruding one if it is ever offered for sale.


----------



## Grox (Jan 1, 2008)

Nice review!

Do the dereelight modules fit into the SF G2 and 6P without a gap?


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## Wattnot (Jan 23, 2008)

Sorry if this has been asked and answered but what is the lumen rating of the full power mode? I would have done a search but I keep getting "fatal error" if the search is too broad (or whenever it feels like doing that . . what's up with that).

Emitter lumens would be fine . . . I'm just trying to compare. All I can find anywhere is current draw rates.

I'm considering this to round out my collection, which at this point is an A2 with white LED's, a P2D Premium that was shipped today (my first real LED light!) and the Mag 85 which is still in "parts are ordered" status. There is a big hole that needs to be filled in the 200 plus lumen range and the CLH1 is on the short list (yes I know about the DBS but I like the size of the CLH1 and I might get both anyway!).

:thinking:


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## WadeF (Jan 23, 2008)

Well, I don't know any of us who have an integrating sphere, so all we can do is approximate. With the Dereelight Q5 pills they are driving the Q5 at 1.2A, supposedly. At that current the Q5's should be producing 250 emitter lumens, or more. So lumens out the front of the CL1H should be in the 200 lumen range, maybe 180 lumens to be on the conservative side.


----------



## RichS (Jan 24, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Well, I don't know any of us who have an integrating sphere, so all we can do is approximate. With the Dereelight Q5 pills they are driving the Q5 at 1.2A, supposedly. At that current the Q5's should be producing 250 emitter lumens, or more. So lumens out the front of the CL1H should be in the 200 lumen range, maybe 180 lumens to be on the conservative side.


I think Wade is probably right about 200 out the front. But rest assured, you would be hard pressed to find a light in this form factor that is putting out any more than the CL1H - it is one bright light! Of course, since Deree sells modules that fit in any P60 light, you can enjoy the blinding goodness in the P60 host of your choice!


----------



## Fird (Feb 14, 2008)

I'm under the influence of 'new toy' syndrome, so keep that in mind as you read this 

Ahh, I've owned this beautiful light for over a week now, but had nothing available to power it with.. Finally today I was able to hack apart an old laptop battery for its 6 18650 cells.. yeah, that label with the whole "do not disassemble" thing, well i took that off first so it didn't say that anymore. After some careful cannibalism I discovered that not one of the cells was completely flat, nor was any one of them out of voltage balance with the others. ::cough::insert cheap computer manufacturer's name here::cough:: probably has a little counter in their batteries, when it gets to about 500 it decides it's time for you to buy a new battery, regardless of whether your cells are just fine or not. The pack's electronics were slightly maimed during the dissection process..

Every single cell survived with a voltage north of 4.1v (it had been charged before being taken out of commission) so I checked the polarity, and then checked it again, and held my breath whilst inserting it into my CL1H. A touch of the tailcap produced a blinding flash. So far so good, so I clicked it on and let it blaze. I have never before felt perceptible "heat" coming out of the front of an LED light, but that's the sensation this light produced. 

I should mention here that this is my first: 18650 light, first thrower, first cree, first regulated light, first modular light, first three-mode light (3SD), and first $50+ flashlight. :twothumbs

This lithium-breathing-behemoth can REALLY throw some light.. and I was using the OP reflector :-D. Cackling manically I pointed it at a distance (200ft or so..) which I never expected a single led to light up, and it did just fine! The belt-clip is probably the second most useful feature on the light after its sheer output. I'll give it a few months of belt EDC and see if it holds up. 

As far as knurling goes I honestly don't care that much. It feels very smooth in the hand, and I like it just fine. The space between the belt clip clamp and head provide a good gripping zone for my small hands, and the light is a comfortable size to 'flip' between grips: the "underhand flashlight grip," and the "psycho-killer/tactical grip" can be quickly interchanged without fear of dropping the light.

The Q4 3SD module I have in it is now outdated, but as it's my first cree, I still think it's freaking bright. I understand that light perception is somewhat logarithmic so I'll probably wait until after the R bins before I upgrade it. The module does "whine" but i couldn't be happier about it, I tried to detect flicker and was unable to, even by waving it back and forth rapidly. A flickering light is worth nothing to me. The PWM frequency if I match it by ear to a signal of known frequency is well north of 3khz! THANK YOU DEREELIGHT! 

Anyway, obviously it's a sweet light, and I won't be buying any SF's any time soon because I can't afford them or their batteries, so I'll just save my meager pennies to upgrade this beast as they come up with new pills 

Fird


----------



## WadeF (Feb 14, 2008)

Glad you enjoy your CL1H!  If you think the OP has throw you should try a smooth.  Although if you're going to be using it at 200 feet or less, the OP is the way to go. The OP should reach out to 400 feet, if not a bit more.


----------



## CandleFranky (Feb 15, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Glad you enjoy your CL1H!  If you think the OP has throw you should try a smooth.  Although if you're going to be using it at 200 feet or less, the OP is the way to go. The OP should reach out to 400 feet, if not a bit more.


Do you think that there is an advantage of the Dereelight OP in the range below 200 feets compared with the SMO reflector? :thinking:


----------



## WadeF (Feb 15, 2008)

CandleFranky said:


> Do you think that there is an advantage of the Dereelight OP in the range below 200 feets compared with the SMO reflector? :thinking:


 
You'll have a larger hot spot, brighter spill, so it will illuminate the overall area infront of you better than the smooth reflector which is concentrating more of the lumens into a tight hot spot.


----------



## CandleFranky (Feb 15, 2008)

WadeF said:


> You'll have a larger hot spot, *brighter spill*, so it will illuminate the overall area infront of you better than the smooth reflector which is concentrating more of the lumens into a tight hot spot.


WadeF, I refer to the CL1H 2SD Q5 review on LightReviews.info, it says -->

_Smooth_ Spill High = 137 Lux
_Textured_ Spill High = 140 Lux

As you can take from this, you have NOT a significant brighter spill with OP. When there is no difference in the spill, how do the OP illuminate the overall area in front of me better then a SMO-reflector? Because of the larger hotspot? But the hotspot from a Dereelight CL1H OP reflector isn't very large too. 

I would not like to critizise the CL1H, I am only asking myself, whether I should buy an additional SMO reflector with my next order - or not. Perhaps you will say that at $4 there is not much room for a big discussion. And you are right.


----------



## WadeF (Feb 15, 2008)

CandleFranky said:


> WadeF, I refer to the CL1H 2SD Q5 review on LightReviews.info, it says -->
> 
> _Smooth_ Spill High = 137 Lux
> _Textured_ Spill High = 140 Lux


 
Hmm, I would have expected it to be more. The smooth reflector will result in a more ringy beam, so I don't know if a brighter ring was measured for that reading, and a dark ring ignored? With a OP you have a more even spill without the rings. Maybe there isn't as much difference in the spill as I thought, but the hot spot will be larger, so it will cover a larger area infront of you than the tighter hot spot of the smooth reflector. 

I'll have to try taking some spill lux readings. 

Update: Look at lightreviews beam shots, you will see the smooth reflectors have dark rings, and bright rings. Those bright rings maybe brighter than the spill on the textured reflector, but the textured reflector won't have the big dark rings. Meaning the smooth reflector may have areas of the spill that are brighter, and areas that are darker, than a textured reflector, but the textured reflector will be more even. If you have a large dark ring it can result in a path ahead of you not being evenly lit, and leaving parts in the darkness, where the textured reflector will light your path evenly.


----------



## CandleFranky (Feb 15, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Meaning the smooth reflector may have areas of the spill that are brighter, and areas that are darker, than a textured reflector, but the textured reflector will be more even. If you have a large dark ring it can result in a path ahead of you not being evenly lit, and leaving parts in the darkness, where the textured reflector will light your path evenly.


Thank your for this information. :twothumbs

Yes, you may be right, the SMO will light more evenly, that's definitly a plus. But the question is -> Is the OP reflector really worth the price of a shorter throw? 

_Smooth_ Spot High = 7730 Lux
_Textured_ Spot High = 6030 Lux

What do YOU prefer?


----------



## WadeF (Feb 15, 2008)

CandleFranky said:


> _Smooth_ Spot High = 7730 Lux
> _Textured_ Spot High = 6030 Lux
> 
> What do YOU prefer?


 
The difference in LUX can be greater than that, may depend on how well you have the pill focused. On my lux meter (which isn't going to read the same as lightreviews, but it's close), I get about 6,400LUX with a textured reflector, and 9,300LUX or more with the smooth. It really depends what you like, but I find the textured reflector more useful for day to day things. Unless you're trying to spot things past 200 feet, or past 400 feet even, the textured reflector is better for most things, especially under 100 feet. Around the house the textured reflector is much better. I'll try and take some outdoor beam shots tonight.


----------



## CandleFranky (Feb 15, 2008)

WadeF said:


> I'll try and take some outdoor beam shots tonight.


This would be great!!! :twothumbs
I have not expected a 3000 lux SMO/OP-difference in the spot. 

Question --> How can I "well" focus a Dereelight pill?


----------



## WadeF (Feb 15, 2008)

CandleFranky said:


> This would be great!!! :twothumbs
> I have not expected a 3000 lux SMO/OP-difference in the spot.
> 
> Question --> How can I "well" focus a Dereelight pill?


 
Well, it could vary from pill to pill, reflector to reflector, but when I have my one pill in my CL1H smooth reflector fully tight it gets around 8,000LUX, if I loosen the pill slightly I get over 9,000LUX. So it's a bit of trial and error. Helps if you have a lux meter, or just see when the hot spot looks the smallest, tightest, brightest, etc. Sometimes you might see a bit of a donut hole (dark area) in the center of the hot spot, so you can adjust the pill so it goes away and you have a nice bright hot spot with no donut hole. Some people place an o-ring between the reflector and the emitter so you can tighten the pill, but the o-ring acts like a spacer. This prevents the pill from being re-adjusted when you screw everything back together.


----------



## CandleFranky (Feb 15, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Some people place an o-ring between the reflector and the emitter so you can tighten the pill, but the o-ring acts like a spacer. This prevents the pill from being re-adjusted when you screw everything back together.


Where do I get the right o-rings for a Dereelight CL1H? Do you use the spare o-rings from Dereelight?

There is a lux-meter at Dealextreme. Is this a useful one or just trash?


----------



## WadeF (Feb 15, 2008)

You could just use any o-rings that fit. You can order o-rings online, get them at a hardware store, etc. The spare Dereelight o-rings for the body maybe too large.

The lux meter at DX is fine, but the one I got read really low, so it was way off from the avg reading other CPF's would get on their lux meter.

Say for a Fenix P3D Q5 most people get 2,900-3,500LUX on their meters, my DX meter might get 1,900-2,000LUX. I found another meter online, that cost around $50-60, that reads higher than the DX and seems to be more in line with everyone else's.

Basically the LUX meter is useful for comparing other lights on the same meter, or comparing adjustments you make, etc. So as long as it gives repeatable results it's fine, and the DX meter should do that.


----------



## CandleFranky (Feb 15, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Basically the LUX meter is useful for comparing other lights on the same meter, or comparing adjustments you make, etc. So as long as it gives repeatable results it's fine, and the DX meter should do that.


Thank you again! :twothumbs


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## CandleFranky (Feb 16, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Around the house the textured reflector is much better. I'll try and take some *outdoor beam shots* tonight.


 :shakehead:


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## WadeF (Feb 16, 2008)

CandleFranky said:


> :shakehead:


 
 Sorry about that, I was trying, but things didn't work out. I'll try tonight yet.


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## Monocrom (Feb 17, 2008)

Hey Wade, any chance that version 4.0 will be available in HAIII black?

Or perhaps a black version of 3.0, possibly with a blackened clip?

I doubt Dereelight will get a huge chunk of the private-purchase LEO market. But I do recall someone posting that they gave a CL1H to a U.S. Secret Service agent who was impressed with the light's performance.


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## CandleFranky (Feb 17, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> I doubt Dereelight will get a huge chunk of the private-purchase LEO market. But I do recall someone posting that they gave a CL1H to a U.S. Secret Service agent who was impressed with the light's performance.


A Secret Service Agent??? That would mean "approved by the CIA" ... oo:

Dereelight is small firm, which is earning money in the niche of "special flashlights". I think, they cannot and doesn't want to compete with Fenix.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 17, 2008)

CandleFranky said:


> :shakehead:


I think the op around the house is better also,it take away most of the rings and the very bright hot spot,giving you a smooth wall of light that will not blind you if you hit a white wall.


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## Fird (Feb 19, 2008)

Update: I've only had the CL1H for a couple weeks, and belt carried it for maybe a week, but today I did something rather dumb which completely DESTROYED the belt clip. It's sturdy enough, except when you sit down and catch the light on something rather solid. The springy metal of the clip itself tore the aluminum ring which holds the clip in place on the body of the light :sigh:. 
I don't see this as a design fault necessarily, just an unfortunate weakness, there aren't many clips I've met that can survive the kind of force it took to rip this one, but it would be nice if the aluminum ring were a ~little~ thicker. I'm attempting a super-glue fix right now which I expect to last a whole 10 seconds, so the light will be safely carried in a pocket for the foreseeable future.

Incidentally I'd be interested in purchasing a belt clip (or two.. I'll probably do it again) if anyone doesn't want theirs. Anybody know of a good holster that can carry the CL1H less its belt clip AND 2 or 3 spare 18650's?? Size is not much of an issue to me as long as it's somewhat reasonable

Fird


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 19, 2008)

Fird,what a bummer,try sending Alan a PM I'm sure he will be able to find you one.

BTW,now you have a little tweezer,for all those switches and things that have the two holes inside the tail cap.


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## WadeF (Feb 19, 2008)

I'm sure Alan would replace it, or sell you a new one. Can you take a pic? 

So did any damage happen to the light? If the only thing to break was the clip's ring, I see that as a positive, if it's designed to break before it damages the light.


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## Fird (Feb 19, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> Fird,what a bummer,try sending Alan a PM I'm sure he will be able to find you one.
> 
> BTW,now you have a little tweezer,for all those switches and things that have the two holes inside the tail cap.



HAaaa, that's funny :twothumbs and I'll try the PM idea.

@WadeF, the light was not damaged in the slightest, just the ring. Even the clip wire itself is in perfect condition. I suppose that's a positive, I'd really be ticked if the light had other issues. I don't have a good camera but I might be able to borrow one.

Thanks,

Fird


-----Edit------

Alan agreed to send me a new belt clip assembly for free!! Once again, my highest recommendation to Dereelight and their products!

Fird


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## CandleFranky (Feb 20, 2008)

Fird said:


> Alan agreed to send me a new belt clip assembly for free!! Once again, my highest recommendation to Dereelight and their products!


Because of this, we buy Dereelight. :goodjob:



WadeF said:


> Sorry about that, I was trying, but things didn't work out. I'll try tonight yet.


When is "tonight"?


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## marc123 (Feb 21, 2008)

Well done Alan. Another reason I have more than one of your lights.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 21, 2008)

Does anyone know if the BOG drop in reflector " which is deeper" is compatible with Alan's pills:thinking:

If they do maybe Alan can get the reflectors


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## Phaserburn (Feb 28, 2008)

Anyone with a 3SD Q5 module care to comment on the whining at lower levels? Has it been addressed?


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

Phaserburn said:


> Anyone with a 3SD Q5 module care to comment on the whining at lower levels? Has it been addressed?


Ok hope this helps.on low and medium there is a faint buzzing sound but you have to put it almost in your ear to hear it,but to me there is no flicker at all.

I only found this out by reading the feedback(and checking my light) otherwise you would never know it was there.

Now on my DI pill it is more notable on all levels,:shrug: hmm do I have a bad pill here? but again no flicker to my eyes.


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## CandleFranky (Feb 28, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> but to me there is no flicker at all


Thanks God, I am not the only one who cannot see the flicker (in normal use). :twothumbs


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## CandleFranky (Feb 28, 2008)

deleted


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

CandleFranky said:


> Thanks God, I am not the only one who cannot see the flicker (in normal use). :twothumbs


Well I can also confirm I have 7/6 vision according to my dentist(with optic assisted sight) and he also insists my sense of humor is 7/7  Thank god for that :devil:


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## Phaserburn (Feb 28, 2008)

Glad to know the buzz isn't audible unless near your head! And no discernable flicker, either. Great!!


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## WadeF (Mar 22, 2008)

I have my CL1H V3 with a smooth reflector putting out about 10,000LUX now, actually a tad over on a fresh cell.  

I got some new CL1H lenses from Dereelight that are AR coated. Dereelight had some issues with the size of the lenses, so they weren't sure if they would fit, but they seem to fit okay. I don't know if they have any more officially available yet, but you could try PM'ing Alan if you're interested.

It's a little tricky to get the stock lens out, I picked up a pair of retaining ring pliers (or whatever) at Sears Hardware. They had a bunch to choose from, and I found a pair that has a switch for external or internal. It also comes with various tips. I installed the tips that are angled at 90 degrees and faced them outwards. I set the tool for internal so I could put the tip into the bezel and squeeze the handles to expand them to fit into the 2 slots in the retaining ring. I carefully loosend the ring, then I moved the tips to the solid surface of the ring, so I wouldn't grind against the internal threads of the bezel.

Once I got the ring out the lens pops out and I popped the new lens in. The AR lens seems to give about a 5% boost in lux. Not really a big deal, but for those of us who will take ever extra lux point we can get, it's fun.  So I went from around 9,500lux to 10,000lux. 

I also played with the pill a little and focused it to give me the tightest and brightest hot spot I could, for throw. I may not have gotten in perfect, but it's better than when I had the pill screwed in all the way. I found an oring that I put around the emitter (it's big enough that it doesn't come close to touching the emitter) so I can tigthen the pill, but the oring acts as a spacer so the LED is positioned where I want it. This way the pill won't turn when I re-install the pill and reflector into the CL1H. 

LUX meters vary, but 10,000LUX on my meter is pretty potent for a light the size of my CL1H V3. My Regalite with it's larger reflector can get up to around 13,000LUX or better, so the CL1H isn't far behind.

As far as the pill, I'm pretty sure it's a 3SD Q5 WC 1.2A. I'm starting to loose track of my pills.  

I'm hoping to get a R2 pill in there sometime which might get me up to 11,000LUX. Again, in the real world, not much of a difference, but call me a lux whore.  

With a texture reflector and the new lens in my other CL1H's (V2 and V1) I get in the 6,500LUX range, about the same as the Fenix T1. I could probably try focusing the pill in these to get a slightly tighter and brighter spot, but I prefer a more floody and even beam for them, I already have the CL1H V3 set up for throw.


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## Fird (Jun 24, 2008)

*CL1H V3 Q4 3SD as a bike light*

With a little creative gaff-taping (wouldn't use duct-tape on a great light like this) I've attached my CL1H V3 to the frame of my bike just below the handlebars as a makeshift bike light. This configuration gives a much steadier beam than the 'jumpy' motion of the handlebars whilst riding and makes it much easier for those biking around me to make use of my light. I do mostly paved-trail and road riding, which makes the beam-pattern with the OP reflector almost ideal, the spot covers the entire area I'm heading towards while the spill area floods both sides of the trail. On my next ride I'll probably swap in the smooth reflector for more throw because I'm planning to do a mostly straight, paved trail so maximum throw will be what I need. 

I'm not that serious of a biker so the runtime is not much of an issue for my 2 hour rides or so, just toss a spare 18650 in my pocket and I'm good for as long as I need on full power. Heat isn't a problem due to the airflow and the body being in contact with the metal frame.

Only with a light of this "caliber" do you need to worry about switching to low beam when traveling in town with cars or when meeting another biker along the trail :twothumbs.


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