# Review of Nitecore MH20



## Budda (Sep 10, 2015)

I received the Nitecore MH20 from Gearbest for the review





The light comes in a cardboard and plastic box, with the ANSI specs on. 
It is one of the latest Nitecore lights, with Cree XM-L2 U2 led.

Inside the box there is the light itself, the manual, the holster, spare orings, clip and lanyard. Inside the battery tube of the MH20 I found a silica gel.
The overall construction is flawless. The anodization is without imperfection. The lettering is clear and easy to read.
The MH20 is composed of 3 parts: head, body and tailcap. The head is the really distinctive part of the light: it’s bigger than the other two. 










The MH20 is a clicky light, with a 2 stage electronic switch (like the one of the cameras): it can be pressed lightly reaching thus the first stage, and can be fully depressed with more pressure, reaching the second stage. Under the cover of the switch there are two blu leds.




On the other side of the light there is the micro usb port for charging. The light is IPX8 rated, and the usb port is protected by a rubber cover. It’s thick and flexible and it require some pressure to get into place over the micro usb port.







Tailcap construction is simple: it holds a spring and nothing more. 


It’s flat and allows an easy tailstand, even with the lanyard in place.




The body of the light has both threads anodized and with thick orings.





The MH20 works with 18650, CR123 and RCR batteries. The integrated charging function works with 18650 only. The plus pole of the light has a mechanical polarity inversion safety, so no flat top 18650 in this light. 




All my 18650s fit inside the light, the inner body has a diameter of almost 19 mm.

One the battery (18650 or 2xCR123) is inserted the leds under the switch cover will turn on and provide the voltage reading with flashes (i.e. : 3 flashes, pause, 4 flashes means 3.4 volt). This will also work with CR123, measuring the voltage between 6.4 volt (2 fully charged CR123) and 4.8 volt (2 empty CR123). I don’t have 2 RCR to see what will the reading be, and it isn’t written either on the manual.

The MH20 has 5 constant outputs + 3 hidden signalling modes
To turn the light on you need to fully and quickly press the switch, and the light will turn on at the last level (one of the 5 constant outputs, no memory for the signalling modes).
The light can be turned on directly at firefly or turbo output.
To get the firefly mode you should press the switch at the first stage for more then a second and release. To get the turbo, you should keep pressed the switch at the second stage (i.e. fully pressed) for more then a second. 
To cycle between the modes you have to press the switch to the first stage (i.e. a light press): you’ll get all the levels, including firefly and turbo.
To turn off the light you have to fully press the switch.

To get the signalling modes you need to have the light already on, then keep fully pressed the switch for at least a second.
This will give you the last signalling mode you had used (it has this kind of memory.). 
To cycle between the signalling modes (strobe, SOS, beacon) you’ll need to press the switch to the first stage (i.e. a light press).
The leds under the switch cover they can be used as locator since they flash once every 4 seconds. This locator function can be turned off by a light press of the switch (i.e. first stage) when the light is off. 
According to the manual, the light can be kept in this standby mode with the locator turned on for 12 months, and 24 months with the locator off, before draining a fully charged 18650.
It’s always possible to physically lockout the light by untwisting one of the parts of the light. 
The ANSI levels (measured with a 18650 2600mAh battery) are: 1000 lumens (2 hours), 410 lumens (2 h 45’), 230 lumens (5h45’), 50 lumens (15h14’) and 1 lumens (235h). 
I couldn’t detect any PWM in practical use.

The MH20 uses the ATR (advanced temperature regulation) technology to decrease automatically the output when the temperature of the inner components is too high. 


The reflector is smooth, and the glass has an anti reflex treatment. 



The bezel it is held with a lot of red threadlocker. Once opened, this is how the MH20’s head looks like.




A few thoughts: 
The light is somehow short for the reflector size, but has a “big” head (it helds the electornic switch, the usb charging port and the drivers). This can be an issue for who wants to keep the MH20 in skinny clothes, no problem with a coat or an hoodie. Remember you also have a holster for the light, molle compatible.
The switch cover is exposed and is not hard to find. You mount the clip in a way that it points directly to the switch, this will make the search easier in the dark, or with the gloves on. The clip will also act as an anti rolling device.
The usb port rubber cover stays well in place: I find hard to imagine that it will come out or get entangled with something.
I like to be able to get firefly and turbo mode when the light is off. To my CPFeye the 1 lumen moonlight is underestimated, it looks something more. But still, it’s lower than many other low level on other lights. 
The 5 output levels are well distributed and you can easily and quickly cycle them with a soft press. Signalling mode are easily to access but still don’t bother you un everyday use.
The dual stage switch is easy to use once you get used, not for the difficulty to make a soft press rather than a full press, but for the UI that will make you turn off the light or change level when you want to do something else. After a few minutes of training, you’ll have full control of the light.

I'm running runtime tests / luxmeter measurements, and I'll update this post.


Here's the complete runtime test.





The high and medium level have shorter runtime than nitecore claims.
For the high level, you can see that exept the first 3 minutes they are very similar; according to nitecore you should have 45' more.
For the medium level I got less than 4hours 30' and they 5 hours 45'.







Looking at the turbo curve, it is consistent with the ansi runtime. At 1h50' the light still has 50.0% relative output. At 113 minutes, 10.3%.
The 50 lumen curve is somewhat short. It should be around 945 minutes, but I got less then 700.


Thanks for reading.


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## sidecross (Sep 10, 2015)

I have two MH20 lights and unlike the Nitecore EC4 this light can be locked out with a slight turn of the 'head'.


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## Budda (Sep 10, 2015)

Runtime graph added.


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## CelticCross74 (Sep 10, 2015)

MH20 is the nicest Nitecore I have yet owned or even handled. This little beast just rocks. To bad the mini USB is not waterproof like the UC35 is but the rest of the light is phenomenal. Run 3600mah 18650 in it it actually stays in turbo or close to it for a good bit esp if you wrap your hand around it for some additional heat sinking. LOVE the switch and voltage readout. My copy of the MH20 came in flawless condition. For once a Nitecore I dont end up complaining about!


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## sidecross (Sep 10, 2015)

Up until the release of the Nitecore MH20 and EC4 the only Nitecore lights I use are the TM11 and TM26. I now use my Eagletac G2525C2 Mark ll and D25LC2 as back up. My D25C is still used as one of my EDC lights along with the MH20 and EC4.


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## Budda (Sep 11, 2015)

Here's the complete runtime test.





The high and medium level have shorter runtime than nitecore claims.
For the high level, you can see that exept the first 3 minutes they are very similar; according to nitecore you should have 45' more.
For the medium level I got less than 4hours 30' and they 5 hours 45'.


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## WarRaven (Sep 11, 2015)

Thanks for the review.
+1
I'm curious about the cell you tested with, is it new'ish?
Them are harsh results.


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## Budda (Sep 12, 2015)

@WarRaven: the cell shouldn't be of concern, since it handled the hardest challenge (the runtime of the turbo level) fine, or at least according to the sepcifictions.
If the ANSI runtime of nitecore was tested with a 3400-3500 mAh battery, maybe then the results will be fine.


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## JimTokle (Sep 12, 2015)

I love my MH20. Absolutely amazing little light, especially for the $45 I bought it for. My only real complaint is that fat head can be uncomfortable to carry in a tight pocket. Maybe I've just been spoiled by my SC62w and the way that it disappears into any pocket. 

Would recommend the MH20 to anyone, particularly someone looking to get into 18650 lights. It's a great gateway flashlight.


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## WarRaven (Sep 12, 2015)

Good point.
Though most use two CR123 at 1500 mah, or one 18650 at 2600 mah for ansi.
Fenix does, Olight etc...
They have good run times ansi rated on a 2600, no need for a 3400 to meet other OEM run times.
This is not efficient at lower levels.
Mh20 rated at 9-10 days on one lumen, my Olight Baton, 50 days on one lumen.
Still love the light.

Using 3400 would only get it nearer to other 18650 using a 2600 it seems.


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## sidecross (Sep 12, 2015)

All my 18650 are either 3100mAh or 3400mAh and were bought in groups of ten or more and are Keeppower or Eagletac brands. I use them on all my lights that include high out put Nitecore TM's and other high out put single and double 18650 flashlights. I find it easier for me to keep 18650's at near the same mAh rating.


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## jjp888 (Sep 12, 2015)

Hey great review.This is the first time I am seeing mh20's bezel being removed.Can you please tell how you removed it without any scratches??


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## Budda (Sep 13, 2015)

I locked the head inside a vise with some wood to not mark the light; the head of the light is not circoular, and so will not roll.
I covered the rest of the head with heat reflecting tape (on the lights with rubber on the head, too much heat can be a problem).
Once in place, I used a heatgun on the lowest settings for a few seconds, all around the bezel. Then I used a jar opener, one of these.
I did this process many times, and then the bezel slowly came off. 
But it was hard even for the method I was using due to the aboundant red threadlocker used to secure it.


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## sidecross (Sep 13, 2015)

Budda said:


> I locked the head inside a vise with some wood to not mark the light; the head of the light is not circoular, and so will not roll.
> I covered the rest of the head with heat reflecting tape (on the lights with rubber on the head, too much heat can be a problem).
> Once in place, I used a heatgun on the lowest settings for a few seconds, all around the bezel. Then I used a jar opener, one of these.
> I did this process many times, and then the bezel slowly came off.
> But it was hard even for the method I was using due to the aboundant red threadlocker used to secure it.



As I have posted before I have two MH20's and both heads rotated quite easily for lock out. This is quite strange.


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## WarRaven (Sep 13, 2015)

Sidecross, I believe you are thinking about lock out, where as the post you quoted is about removing bezel to get access to reflector in the head itself.


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## sidecross (Sep 13, 2015)

WarRaven said:


> Sidecross, I believe you are thinking about lock out, where as the post you quoted is about removing bezel to get access to reflector in the head itself.



Thank you, I was again 'sleeping at the wheel' which, at my age of 71, is much to frequent.


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## WarRaven (Sep 13, 2015)

Oh do not worry there friend, we got you ☺
+1


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## WarRaven (Sep 14, 2015)

Hope you don't mind Budda.

I meant to post here initially.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/4735802
Thoughts anyone?


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## brightnorm (Sep 16, 2015)

My main criticism of the MH20 is its runtime at "50 lumens". A true 50-70 lumens is a kind of "Goldilocks" level which combines excellent runtime with plenty of light for many uses. Unfortunately, I have found that the MH20's 50 lumens is more like 100+ lumens. WarRaven estimates it at 120 lumens. (See his link above)

By comparison, the Nitecore P12's true 70 lumens (Selfbuilt) gives you 28 hours, nearly twice the runtime of the MH20's "50 lumens". Nitecore's mislabeling is puzzling. Could it be an attempt to boost sales? To the uninitiated, the MH20 may seem brighter than other lights at the "same" lumen settings, an impossibility that non-CPF'ers might not grasp.

I'll admit to some frustration about this. I was hoping to make the MH20 my EDC, but may end up with the longer,(but slimmer) P12.

Brightnorm


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## sidecross (Sep 16, 2015)

WarRaven said:


> Hope you don't mind Budda.
> 
> I meant to post here initially.
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/4735802
> Thoughts anyone?




Thank you for your link.


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## sidecross (Sep 16, 2015)

brightnorm said:


> My main criticism of the MH20 is its runtime at "50 lumens". A true 50-70 lumens is a kind of "Goldilocks" level which combines excellent runtime with plenty of light for many uses. Unfortunately, I have found that the MH20's 50 lumens is more like 100+ lumens. WarRaven estimates it at 120 lumens. (See his link above)
> 
> By comparison, the Nitecore P12's true 70 lumens (Selfbuilt) gives you 28 hours, nearly twice the runtime of the MH20's "50 lumens". Nitecore's mis-labeling is puzzling. Could it be an attempt to boost sales? To the uninitiated, the MH20 may seem brighter than other lights at the "same" lumen settings, an impossibility that non-CPF'ers might not grasp.
> 
> ...




I agree with what you have written but I do use the MH20 now as my EDC. My second choice would be my Eagletac G25C2 MKii. But for everyday the MH20 is much easier to carry.


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## WarRaven (Sep 16, 2015)

I agree mostly too, though built in USB charger relieves some stress.
Yes I still feel it's cranking out the lumens, at least we've an idea of that here on CPF.


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## WarRaven (Sep 19, 2015)

OK, I'm wondering...
Anyone running their MH20 on RCR123 or 18350?

Then of course next question, any notable difference other then minutes of run time?

Could probably use it to thaw frozen door locks in a pinch, idk 🔥


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## eh123456 (Sep 20, 2015)

I love to try this light, but it can't use flat top 18650 ? Hum..... all my 18650's are unprotected Panasonic 3100


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## akhyar (Sep 20, 2015)

You can always drop a blop of solder on top of your unprotected cell if you know how to do it, or get a small magnet that can attach to the flat top cell +ve connection. My local flashlight dealer sells the magnet for about $1/pc or you can buy it online


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## Budda (Sep 24, 2015)

WarRaven said:


> Hope you don't mind Budda.
> 
> I meant to post here initially.
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/4735802
> Thoughts anyone?



I don't own a lightbox, but what I did is measuring the lux at a fixed distance from the light, and then comparing the number. This is what I got

1,00%10,00%32,00%54,00%100,00%

What you got is: 100%, 62.5%, 40%, 10%, 1%.
I used a ET 2500mAh, if you used an IMR or a low internal resistance cell, your results may be explainable.

I have recently acquired a good luxmeter, I'll redo this test with it also using a fresh cell.


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## WarRaven (Sep 24, 2015)

Budda said:


> I don't own a lightbox, but what I did is measuring the lux at a fixed distance from the light, and then comparing the number. This is what I got
> 
> 1,00%10,00%32,00%54,00%100,00%
> 
> ...


Right on, I'm so looking forward to your results.
Mine could be skewered from higher CD is my thought, but run times kind of back my thoughts on outputs.
That is not factual by any means, but what I'm believing. 
I'm toying between two cells, both 3200, one is lmr other is protected. I did get higher readings on lmr, but figured it's my set up not being consistent. 

+1 for looking into this. 
Cheers☺


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## carl (Jul 23, 2016)

Since side switches is notoriously difficult to find in the dark quickly, can the side button locator blink function be kept on all the time whenever I turn the light off or do I have to do something to make it work each time I'm about to turn the light off?


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## Budda (Jul 23, 2016)

I broke my MH20, but If I remember correctly, you have to do a short half press each time you turn the light off.
I find side switches easy to find, especially if aligned with the clip.


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## CelticCross74 (Jul 23, 2016)

2x16340 or 18350 should work. The manual does say it accepts 2x16340's so hmmmm....now I am eyeballing my 2 fresh red Efest 18350's. I tried regular CR123's and boy did the light get hot fast

Just stuck 2 freshly charged red 800mah Efest 18350's into it and so far it has not burst into flames etc. Will really have to wait for nightfall but output does seem up


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## vadimax (Jul 23, 2016)

Budda said:


> I broke my MH20, but If I remember correctly, you have to do a short half press each time you turn the light off.
> I find side switches easy to find, especially if aligned with the clip.



I guess, half press does switch modes  You need a full press to turn on/off a MH20.


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## vadimax (Jul 23, 2016)

carl said:


> Since side switches is notoriously difficult to find in the dark quickly, can the side button locator blink function be kept on all the time whenever I turn the light off or do I have to do something to make it work each time I'm about to turn the light off?



Is it so hard to half press a light in off position?


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## vadimax (Jul 23, 2016)

Budda said:


> I broke my MH20, but If I remember correctly, you have to do a short half press each time you turn the light off.
> I find side switches easy to find, especially if aligned with the clip.



2xRCR123, right?  I guess 8.4V is too much for the driver. It simply burns out the circuitry.


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## vadimax (Jul 23, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> 2x16340 or 18350 should work. The manual does say it accepts 2x16340's so hmmmm....now I am eyeballing my 2 fresh red Efest 18350's. I tried regular CR123's and boy did the light get hot fast
> 
> Just stuck 2 freshly charged red 800mah Efest 18350's into it and so far it has not burst into flames etc. Will really have to wait for nightfall but output does seem up



Some people like the world of unknown  The light is rated 6V max.


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## CelticCross74 (Jul 23, 2016)

the manual says 2x16340 is okay so 8.4v would seemingly be its max. Odd...Ive got two fresh 18350's in my standard MH20 right now and for some reason it yes cranks like hell but does not get scalding hot like it did on 2xCR123's. Hmmmm


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## Budda (Jul 24, 2016)

vadimax said:


> I guess, half press does switch modes  You need a full press to turn on/off a MH20.


Half press _after _you turn the light off to turn on the locator



vadimax said:


> Is it so hard to half press a light in off position?


I would like to be a "memorized" setting.

Don't know why you should switch from 18650 to 2xRCR o 2x18350: you get less capacity and loose the charging feature.


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## vadimax (Jul 24, 2016)

Am I that stupid or Nitecore's web designer? Tried to ask a question:


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## liteboy (Jul 24, 2016)

I think it was E90, not 9o

Hate those captcha things


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## Budda (Jul 24, 2016)

Just take a look at the manual on Nitecore website: RCR are compatible but not rechargeable


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## CelticCross74 (Jul 24, 2016)

2x18350 in my XML2 MH20 has thus far worked great. A bump in output but not as much as one might hope for. Run time? About the same as a 1600mah 18650. One thing I noticed is that with the output bump the tint color actually seems to have gone whiter for some reason. Also cool yet kind of odd is that the 2xred Efest 800mah 18350's I put inside it just have yet to get hot. Kind of unnerves me. Tonights experiment 2x700mah Orbtronic 16340. Oh gotta note that I had been running an unprotected GA in the light which worked great.

Okay...I have NO idea why but 2x16340's do indeed work but the light gets hot FAST. For some reason the red Efest 18350's barely get warm. The 18350's do indeed give an odd out put boost on the top two settings and the tint is now white while the lower 3 have gone near NW. Very strange. This is the base XML2 MH20 I am working with...oh and its flat top Efests. Tried my button tops and the light will not screw shut all the way.


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## kestrel140 (Jan 28, 2018)

Warning Warning Warning,

I loved my mh-20 from nitecore it worked so well for such a small torch. The rating has it waterproof to 2metres. The other day i could not find my flashlight and it accidentally went through the wash cycle. The head is half full of water and the light is garbage. I was quite shocked and now i am 1 light less.


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## phantom23 (Feb 2, 2018)

That rating applies to the steady water. During the wash water pressure was much higher (accasionally but still).


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## Timothybil (Feb 3, 2018)

kestrel140 said:


> Warning Warning Warning,
> 
> I loved my mh-20 from nitecore it worked so well for such a small torch. The rating has it waterproof to 2metres. The other day i could not find my flashlight and it accidentally went through the wash cycle. The head is half full of water and the light is garbage. I was quite shocked and now i am 1 light less.


You should be able to remove the front bezel and lens to get the majority of the water out. Then bury the head in some white rice for a day or two to draw the moisture out of the innards. Sealing the head in a plastic bag with a bunch of dehumidifier pouches would work as well. Then gently warm it in front of a heater or on a furnace vent for a couple of hours to make sure it is dry. Hopefully there won't be any soap or dirt left inside to possibly jump connections. 

Good luck and let us know how things turn out.


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## Skaaphaas (Jun 6, 2019)

Old thread, I know. My MH20 in NW started acting weird in December. No reason I can fathom. Wouldn’t switch off, etc. 

Finally managed to ship it back to Nitecore last month, and they replaced the head for me. I told them I’m fine with CW if they didn’t have NW in stock, as the NW XML-2 sucked. 

It appears they sent me a CW version, of which the Cree rainbow is pretty evident when hunting white walls. 

I’m not too fazed. It’s a decent light and for outdoor use the tint shift isn’t an issue at all. 

I dropped a fresh 3200mAh cell in it and will be taking it camping this weekend, see how it holds up.


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## CelticCross74 (Jan 3, 2020)

Good to see the MH20 thread still alive. I still have my 4 MH20's. They still work perfectly and the awesome 2 stage switch is a joy to use as no other light I know of. This two state switch would be awesome on a Zebralight SC. Would be a lot less near Rubiks Cube UI and make their feature mountain much easier to climb.


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## bonhomme (Jan 6, 2020)

I just bought a mh20gt , but my battery goes empty in +-a month?
When i measure the standby current i have 5mAmps, so this is not normal!
Anyone else have this problem?
Thanks Marc


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## pipspeak (Jan 14, 2020)

What's the verdict on the neutral white version of the MH20? I love my MH20GT, but would really like a slightly warmer emitter in such a throwy light so the NW MH20 has me intrigued.


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