# Eagletac SX25L3 (MT-G2, 3x18650/6xCR123A) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS+



## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *















The SX25L3 is a new 3x186500 class light from Eagletac that combines many of the features of the AA-based GX25A3/SX25A6 and Li-ion-based GX/SX/MX25L2. 

The light comes with a choice of a single XM-L2 emitter, or the new high-output MT-G2. In this review, I will be examining the MT-G2 version, and comparing it to a number of other lights that use this new emitter.

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: CREE MT-G2 P0 Neutral White
Four brightness levels (Regular mode): ANSI FL-1 lumen: 2375-2006/1057/175/28
Runtime: 1.5/3.3/21/350 hours 
Two brightness levels (Tactical mode): ANSI lumen: 2375-2006/243/Strobe I/Strobe II
Runtime: 1.5/19 hours 
Center lux: 25,100 lux
Center spot angle: 10.3°
Spill light angle: 57.6°
Beam distance: 347 yards / 317 meters 
Battery Type: 3x18650 3.7V li-ion, 6xCR123A 3.0V
Operating voltage: 5.4V -19V (note, do NOT use 6x 3.7V RCR)
Compatible 18650 battery diameter/length: Diameter: 18-18.8mm, Length: 67-68.5mm 
Lens: Waterwhite glass lens w/ harden treatment, Anti-reflective (AR) coating on both side (96% transparency)
Reflector: Light orange peel aluminum reflector
Material: HAIII hard anodization aerospace aluminum
Waterproof: IPX-8 standard
Innovative slot load design, No battery tray or battery magazine needed 
Seven hidden auxiliary outputs: Strobe/Strobe(Var)/Flash(Hi)/S.O.S.(Fast)/S.O.S./Becaon/Flash(Lo) 
Dimensions: Head Dia. 1.85 inches (47 mm), Body Dia. 1.8 inches (45.5 mm), Length: 5.7 inches (144 mm)
Weight: 10.9 ounces (309 grams)
Base model: includes flashlight, Spare o-rings, User Manual, Mil-Spec Para-cord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip, Flat tailcap 
YRGB kit version: Includes all of the base model, and extra signal connection through the body tube for rear accessories add-on, Extra tailcap w/ switch and tail-standing ability, Flashlight head come with front-mount thread for bezel and filter attachment, Stainless steel bezel, Heavy Duty Nylon Holster w/ self-retention device and open-top design, ET47 diffuser filter, ET47 yellow filter, ET47 red filter, ET47 green filter, ET47 blue filter.
MSRP: ~$135 (base version), ~$175 (kit version)






The SX25L3 comes securely packaged in the new Eagletac cardboard box packaging. The lights come in a soft fabric pouch with a drawstring. Included accessories are extra o-rings, manual, warranty card and standard Eagletac wrist lanyard. A three-pack of anti-rattle holders for CR123As is included.

My sample came as "kit version", which includes the YRGB accessory kit. Here, you get a belt holster in addition to a set of yellow, red, green and blue optical glass filters and diffuser cover (which replace the stainless steel bezel by screwing onto the head of the light). Note that my review sample was missing the extra tailcap with secondary switch, although this is part of the kit package. They will send one with the next batch of lights for review - in the meantime, please see my GX25A3 and SX25A6 reviews for examples of one. 














From left to right: Eagletac Protected 18650 3400mAh, SX25L3; Niwalker BK-FA02; Crelant 7G10.





From left to right: Eagletac Protected 18650 3400mAh, SX25L3, GX25A3; Duracell NiMH AA.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed (unless indicated):

*Eagletac SX25L3 3x18650*: Weight: 315.9g, Length: 150.2mm, Weight (bezel): 47.0mm
*Eagletac GX25A3 3xAA*: Weight: 151.4g, Length: 109.2mm, Weight (bezel): 38.6mm
*Eagletac SX25A6 6xAA*: Weight: 279.8g, Length: 183mm, Weight (bezel): 47.0mm
*Eagletac GX25L2*: Weight: 198.3g (with battery pack: 290.1g), Length: 224mm, Width (bezel): 39.5mm
*Eagletac SX25L2*: Weight: 279.4g (with battery pack: 470.3g), Length: 239mm, Width (bezel): 47.0mm

*Crelant 7G9*: Weight: 482.2g (634g with 3x18650), Length: 188mm, Width (bezel): 64.0mm, Width (tailcap): 46.7mm
*Crelant 7G10*: Weight 643.4g (827g with 4x18650), Length: 198mm, Width (bezel): 79.0mm
*Fenix TK75*: Weight: 516.0g (700g with 4x18650), Length: 184mm, Width (bezel): 87.5mm
*Nitecore TM15:* Weight: 450.6g (634g with 4x18650). Length 158mm, Width (bezel): 59.5mm
*Niwalker BK-FA01 (shipping)*: Weight: 687.6g (870g with 4x18650), Length: 209mm, Width (bezel): 80.0mm, Width (tailcap): 50.3mm
*Eagletac MX25L2 (standard head)*:Weight: 468.7g (with battery pack: 744.2g), Length: 266mm, Width (bezel): 62.0mm

The SX25L3 is clearly a wider and heavier light than Eagletac's recent multi-AA offerings in this space (consistent with its 3x18650 design). That said, it is actually one of the most compact 3x18650 lights I've handled. oo:






















Hand feel is good (for all size hands), thanks to the relatively compact build. Although a bit heavier than the AA models, the light is comfortable to hold and use. Grip is reasonably good, thanks to all the build elements. Knurling is somewhat mild, but is present over the entire battery tube/handle. As with the SX25A6, there are also finger well cut-outs on three sides of the battery tube. 

Anodizing is glossy black, hard anodized (i.e., type III), but there were a couple of chips on my sample (note that my sample was an early review sample, so it may have already seen some handling). Labels are bright and clear (i.e., sharp white against the black background). 

Like the recent GX25A3/SX25A6, the SX25L2 doesn't use a battery carrier, but instead has cut-out wells for the cells. The cells are arranged in continuous series, with connection being made by contacts on a connector piece in the tailcap. This connector can spin freely, and locks in place to a couple of holes in the body that line up with rods in the tailcap. 

Screw threading on the tailcap is traditional triangular cut, and is anodized. This actually allows you to lock out the light, as there is a signal that carries through the tailcap (at least in the kit version tested here). :thumbsup: On most other lights with this sort of battery arrangement, tension on the springs determines the contact, and hence no lock-out is usually possible. Thread feel is very smooth on my sample. Note that the kit version comes with an extra signal path for the secondary tailswitch to operate (i.e., I presume the extra metal tail connector pin is missing on the base model).

As with other recent Eagletac lights that use a head switching mechanism, there are a series of spring-mounted pins in the head that are required to interpret the output state of the light. The thickness and quality of these pins look improved on the SX25L3, compared to earlier models I've seen (although all have worked fine in my testing to date).

The SX25L3 can tailstand, and there is a wrist lanyard strap attachment point on the side. Note there is no real anti-roll feature, and the light can roll easily when on its side. 

Screw threads are square-cut (and thick) in the head region where mode switching occurs, as with the other recent Eagletac lights

The electronic switch controls on-off when the tailcap is connected, with output mode selection and programming controlled by head twist. This is the same as the other recent GX/SX/MX/TX25xx-series lights, although the design of the contact points in the head can vary somewhat (scroll down for a UI discussion). Side-switch feel is good for an electronic switch – there is a reasonable traverse, and the action is firm. Grip is good with the texturized rubber button cover. 










The SX25L3 comes with either a XM-L2 emitter, or the high output MT-G2 shown above. The reflector (on my sample) is textured, and fairly deep. The large MT-G2 emitter seemed well centered.

The MT-G2 is relatively new in the flashlight world (see the Cree MT-G2 spec sheet for more info). As you can probably tell, the MT-G2 is a remarkably large emitter, with a dome diameter of almost 8.9mm (vs. 5mm on the XM-L2). Of course, what really matters is the surface area of the die underneath, which is only 2x2mm on the XM-L2. I am not sure of the actual die dimensions on the MT-G2, but there appears to be a grid of 72 distinct segments on it.

Note that the MT-G2 only comes in a variety of relatively neutral-warm tint bins (i.e., the coolest one available is 5000K). All the MT-G2 samples I've seen have certainly been in the typical "Neutral White" range, and this one is no exception. 

Scroll down for beamshot comparisons.

The kit version of the light has a screw-on stainless steel bezel (I believe the regular version lacks a threaded bezel). This unscrews and can be replaced with YRGB filters and diffuser covers.

*User Interface*

The interface is basically the same at the GX25A3/SX26A6, but with a fourth head twist mode (explained below). Turn the light on/off by the electronic switch. Press and hold for momentary, press-release (i.e. click) for locked-on.

Output levels controlled by how loose/tight the head is (i.e., the three levels are accessed in sequence from head fully tight). As soon as you loosen past fully tight, you drop down to the second level. You drop down again to the third level after a ~60 degree, and to fourth and final level by ~120 degree turn. This is like the G25C2 and GX/SX/MX25L2 series lights (that also offer four modes), but differs from the GX25A3/SX25A6 that only off 3 modes. You need to do at least one full head turn from tight to get the light to shut off (but you can easily lock out the light at the tailcap).

There are two possible groups of output modes available - Regular (100% > 45% > 8% > 1%, in sequence) and Tactical (100% > 12% > Strobe I > Strobe 2, in sequence). You can switch between the two groups by turning the light on max (fully tight) and loosening the head to the second level and then back to tight, repeating this sequence ten times in five seconds. 

A new feature on these recent tactical lights is the ability to rapidly access a momentary Turbo from any head position by a press-and-hold of the switch when On. You can similarly access strobe at any time by a double press and hold (i.e. click and press-hold). Simply release the switch to return to your previous head-set level. 

To access the hidden auxiliary modes, do a quick loosen-tighten twist of the head (from first level tight to third level and back again). Repeat this twist to advance through the modes. Mode sequence is: Strobe I > Strobe II > Hi-Flash > SOS I > SOS II > Beacon > Lo-Flash, in repeating sequence. Turn off the light or loosen the head to quit the hidden modes. I will describe these modes in more detail below. 

There is an "energy saving feature" where the light reduces output by 25% after 200 seconds in Turbo. You can toggle this feature "off", which results in a 10% step-down instead. See my runtime results below for more information. To toggle this feature off or on, turn the light on at the third level, and switch back and forth to the second level for ten times in five seconds.

*Video*: 

For more information on the overall build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Videos were recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I believe the light is current-controlled.  

The SX25L3 is again identical to my GX25A3/SX25A6, TX25C2 and GX/SX25L2 series in terms of the auxiliary blinking modes.

Strobe I:





The main strobe is standard high frequency strobe, measured at 9.1 Hz on my SX25L3.

Strobe II:





The second strobe mode is an alternating or "oscillating" strobe, switching between 6.2Hz and 14.5Hz every 2 seconds. 

Hi-Flash:





Hi-Flash is basically a full power slow strobe/beacon mode. Frequency was a reasonable ~1.6Hz. Note that the deflection spikes you see above are just the on and off signals of the pulse (i.e., it spends roughly half the time on, half the time off, with each pulse). 

SOS I:





The "fast" SOS signals the full SOS sequence (dot-dot-dot, dash-dash-dash, dot-dot-dot) in just under 3 secs. Note again that the traces above refer to both the on- and off-signal for each pulse of light.

SOS II:





In contrast, the "slow" SOS takes just under 3 seconds just do the "S" (i.e. dot-dot-dot), and about 4 second to do the "O" (i.e., dash-dash-dash), with a good 3 seconds in-between each Morse code letter. Personally, this seems far more useful than the rather frenetic initial SOS mode.

Beacon:






Beacon is a slow full output flash (almost 2 secs long), re-occurring approximately every ~14 secs (i.e., a very slow beacon)

*Standby Drain*

A standby current drain is inevitable on this light, due to the electronic switch in the head (and/or tailcap). I have measured it on my SX25L3 to be 167uA. Given the serial cell arrangement, would translate into a little over 21 months on 2600mAh 18650, which is quite reasonable.

If you are concerned about this relatively minute drain, you can easily lock-out the SX25L3 by a quick twist of the tailcap. 

*Beamshots:*

And now, what you have all been waiting for.  All lights are on their standard battery, or AW protected 18650 2200mAh for the multi-18650 lights. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































_Note: Again, don't be fooled by relative tint differences for the MT-G2s above – the automatic color balance used by the camera introduces distortions in tint. In real life, I find my MT-G2 lights to be relatively neutral white._

The SX25L3 is clearly not as heavier a thower as the larger lights in my collection. But the beam profile is well balanced and pleasing to the eye.

*UPDATE OCTOBER 4, 2013:*

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). I think this batch of outdoor beamshots looks fairly good, due to all the Fall colors in the trees. 










The SX25L3 clearly has the lowest throw for the MT-G2 class so far. But you can also see how much brighter the spillbeam is (i.e., look at the bushes on the side of the path). It goes to show you the impact reflector design has on relative beam appearance. 

Also, please ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera. In real life, the MT-G2 lights are consistently Neutral white.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






The MT-G2 is certainly capable of decent output – upon initial activation, I estimate over 2500 lumens. This puts it well within the class of other MT-G2 lights, as well as typical Luminus SST-90 lights and many of the 3xXM-L lights. :thumbsup: 

One of the advantages of the MT-G2 is a much smoother beam profile than multi-emitter setups, but at the expense of throw (due to the large emitter die). As expected, SX25L3 throw is not as high as some of the other MT-G2 lights with larger reflectors.. But it is still quite reasonable for general usage.

Let's see how the rest of the output levels compare:






On the whole, I find pretty good concordance of my measures with Eagletac's ANSI FL-1 throw and output specs

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

Let's start by comparing some 18650 results:






As you would expect, the higher capacity 3100mAh cells give longer runtime. Like the other Eagletac models, you can reduce the default ~25% step-down to just ~10% if you want (which will lead to reduced runtime).

The regulation pattern is interesting, as both Turbo and the 45% Hi level show a mild oscillating pattern. Not to worry, this is completely unnoticeable by eye – the light will look completely flat regulated in use.

Let's see how it compares to other lights:










One interesting thing here is what happens at the lower 12% Med level – the S25A3 no longer shows a full regulation pattern, and the light looks more like direct-drive. This is again not an issue though – the timescale is so long above that the light will look completely flat regulated to the eye.

The overall efficiency seems quite good at all levels – keep in mind, the SX25L3 is running on only 3x18650 cells, not 4x like most of the competition. 

*Potential Issues*

As with other Eagletac models where the output mode is set by the degree the head is tightened, you need to keep all contact surfaces in the head clean. Long-term reliability of the switching mechanism and pins is unknown, but I note that the spring-mounted pins are thicker and more robust looking than on other recent Eagletac models.

Due to the electronic switch in the head, there is a standby current when the tailcap is fully connected. This is relatively small however (i.e., would take nearly 2 years to completely drain most 18650 cells).

Light lacks any sort of anti-roll feature, and can roll fairly easily (unless you have a lanyard installed).

Flat-top 18650 cells may not work in the light, due to the physical reverse polarity feature. 

*Preliminary Observations*

Eagletac has been busy launching new series lately, and I like the continued evolution into the SX25L3. The 3x18650 configuration makes this a substantial light, yet it is still quite compact and reasonably comfortable in the hand. I am always interested in seeing another MT-G2 light,  although I should note that the SX25L3 is also available with XM-L2 for more throw.

Build-wise, the light has a lot in common with the smaller 3xAA GX25A3 and 6xAA SX25A6. But there are some differences in the head design, and I am glad to see that four output modes per set have been restored to this series (e.g., like the GX/SX/MX25L2 and G25C2 series lights).

Aside from the extra fourth mode, user interface is basically the same as the GX25A3/SX25A6. :thumbsup: I personally find this interface intuitive and easy to use (i.e., side-switch for Off/On, head loosen to change output levels). This gives you the advantage of being able to predict the output level before turning on. Like the GX25A3/SX25A6, an alternate tailcap with a secondary On/Off switch is available as part of the kit (which functions the same as the main switch). 

The SX25L3 appears to share the same kind of excellent output/runtime efficiency as other members of the Eagletac family, although I don't have many MT-G2 lights to compare to. Regulation pattern is distinctive on the highest two levels, and the light seems to be mainly direct drive at lower ones. None of this is visible to the eye, however – output will appear perfectly flat in use, and you will benefit from the efficiency gains (although keep in mind only 3x 18650 are used here, unlike some of the larger competition). 

Beam pattern is very smooth, with an even beam and wide spill. Don't expect a lot of relative throw with the MT-G2 emitter, but I certainly found it fine for general use. I personally like that the MT-G2 series only comes in a range of warm-neutral tints - every light sample I've seen to date has had a pleasing neutral white. 

Like the other compact members of the GX/SX family of lights, I can see the SX25L3 being a popular model. While it won't be a huge thrower in this size, it is a very portable light with a very impressive amount of power. :wave:

----

SX25L3 was provided by Eagletac for review.


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## __philippe (Jul 24, 2013)

It goes without saying, but here goes all the same: OUTSTANDING review ! :thumbsup:

Cheers,

__philippe


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## monkeyboy (Jul 24, 2013)

Great review selfbuilt.

Question: how can you tell whether you're in the 10% or the 25% step down mode without using a light meter?

thanks


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## kj2 (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks for this great review 
Will you also do a review on the XM-L2 version?


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## don.gwapo (Jul 24, 2013)

Thanks for the review selfbuilt. 

This is an outstanding light in output and compact size. Wish it has more wider spill.

Got the base model and the CR123 holders are included if your wondering.


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## MBentz (Jul 24, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> *I am also interested in seeing another MT-G2 light*,  although I should note that the SX25L3 is also available with XM-L2 for more throw.



Thanks for stellar review as always selfbuilt. My only beef is with the lack of details regarding the bolded part. Spill it man!


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## Gravitron (Jul 24, 2013)

The "other mt-g2 light" most likely is the Fenix. I don't know of any other light we are all waiting on, with great expectations.
P.S. Great review, as always. Thanks for all you do for this community!


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## MBentz (Jul 24, 2013)

Perhaps it's the updated Barracuda? Time will tell!


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## orbital (Jul 24, 2013)

+

*Many thanks selfbuilt*

In a package only slightly larger than a common 18650 light, you get very usable Low & Med
plus, at any moment have an absolute fire breathing dragon by simply pressing & holding the switch (or tightening the head fully)

I have an MT-G2 version,, it's an impressive unit 

______________________________________

>> Would like to hear other peoples take on the built-in Voltage control


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## selfbuilt (Jul 24, 2013)

Glad you are enjoying the review everyone. :wave:



monkeyboy said:


> Question: how can you tell whether you're in the 10% or the 25% step down mode without using a light meter?


Practically you wouldn't - which is why you might as well leave it in the default 25% step-down. I suppose they provided the lower step-down for those who object to such things. But the default setting is always turned on, so you would need to actively change it to 10%.



kj2 said:


> Will you also do a review on the XM-L2 version?


Likely not, as Eagletac only sent me the MT-G2 version. But the specs for the MT-G2 version seem to match my results pretty well, so you can probably expect something similar for the XM-L2 specs.



don.gwapo said:


> Got the base model and the CR123 holders are included if your wondering.


Thanks.



MBentz said:


> Thanks for stellar review as always selfbuilt. My only beef is with the lack of details regarding the bolded part. Spill it man!


Sorry, didn't realize I was sounding so cryptic. :laughing:

I simply meant that I find the MT-G2 to be an interesting emitter, and I am currently curious to see how it fares in different builds, and with different circuits. I've reviewed the Niwalker BK-FA02 and Crelant 7G10, and will likely review other lights as they become available. I didn't have anything else specific in mind.


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## MichaelAng (Jul 24, 2013)

I have this light. The only complain I have is that in the dark, it's hard to locate the on/off button. I solved that by sticking a small piece of luminous sticker on it. But only last 1/2 hour or so. I think the nitecore method of having the button lighted up is a great idea that eagle tac should adapt for those light with side buttons.

Selfbuilt, btw, you should indicate that those who did not buy the kit won't be able to use the accessories on their basic set like mine.. Anyway, my basic set did not feel like a diffuser is useful but the end cap switch would be!


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## __philippe (Jul 25, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> ..Selfbuilt, btw, you should indicate that _*those who did not buy the kit won't be able to use the accessories on their basic set *_like mine.. Anyway, my basic set did not feel like a diffuser is useful but the end cap switch would be!


Ahem...there is a tad of (friendly) controversy about this very subject here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...8650-2750lm)&p=4248243&viewfull=1#post4248243 
(posts #219, #228- )

I tend leaning towards Michael's warning: *"kit-exclusive accessories - not swappable"*; other opinions diverge, ever so slightly ...

__philippe


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## makapuu (Jul 25, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> I have this light. The only complain I have is that in the dark, it's hard to locate the on/off button. I solved that by sticking a small piece of luminous sticker on it. But only last 1/2 hour or so. I think the nitecore method of having the button lighted up is a great idea that eagle tac should adapt for those light with side buttons.
> 
> Selfbuilt, btw, you should indicate that those who did not buy the kit won't be able to use the accessories on their basic set like mine.. Anyway, my basic set did not feel like a diffuser is useful but the end cap switch would be!



Hey MichaelAng, there is a flat spot on the heat fins that lines up with the on/off button that I use as a guide in the dark. 
I just feel for it with my thumb, and the button is directly below. hope this helps.


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## GordoJones88 (Jul 25, 2013)

Thanks for the review!

I had thought this light would fit in your lightbox, and you would be able to directly estimate the lumens, rather than a ceiling bounce test. I guess though if you calibrate your lightbox using other known lights with similar brightness, and those won't fit in your lightbox, you have nothing to calibrate your lightbox to 2500 lumens?


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## GordoJones88 (Jul 25, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> I think the nitecore method of having the button lighted up is a great idea that eagle tac should adapt for those light with side buttons.



NO! I don't want my Eagletac lights with flashing glowing rings flashing and glowing at me all night. It is very likely this will give away your location to the zombies.


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## orbital (Jul 25, 2013)

+

selfbuilt, I don't have that silver knob on the top on the battery tube (with the tailcap off) clearly seen @ 4' 11" on Vid
hmmmm?
_
Also :: yep,a GID boot on the switch wouldn't hurt _

__________________________________


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## selfbuilt (Jul 25, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> I have this light. The only complain I have is that in the dark, it's hard to locate the on/off button. I solved that by sticking a small piece of luminous sticker on it.





makapuu said:


> Hey MichaelAng, there is a flat spot on the heat fins that lines up with the on/off button that I use as a guide in the dark. I just feel for it with my thumb, and the button is directly below. hope this helps.


Yes, that's a good way to line up the switch in the dark - there is a definite cut-out in the fins to guide you. I have also found the knurling band around the switch to be helpful in this regard. The smaller multi-AA versions lack this band, and I find it quite helpful for finding the switch by touch alone.



MichaelAng said:


> Selfbuilt, btw, you should indicate that those who did not buy the kit won't be able to use the accessories on their basic set like mine.. Anyway, my basic set did not feel like a diffuser is useful but the end cap switch would be!





orbital said:


> selfbuilt, I don't have that silver knob on the top on the battery tube (with the tailcap off) clearly seen @ 4' 11" on Vid
> hmmmm?


Yes, it is my understanding that the filters/diffusers and secondary switch tailcap will NOT work on the standard version, only the kit version. The reason for this is the threaded bezel is only on the kit version, and there is an extra signal path for the tailcap (which I presume is that silver knob at the base of the battery compartment on my kit version). Of course, I may be wrong about that - I am simply going by what Eagletac reports, and I haven't personally seen a non-kit version of this design. :shrug:



GordoJones88 said:


> I had thought this light would fit in your lightbox, and you would be able to directly estimate the lumens, rather than a ceiling bounce test. I guess though if you calibrate your lightbox using other known lights with similar brightness, and those won't fit in your lightbox, you have nothing to calibrate your lightbox to 2500 lumens?


Correct. The SX25L3 is an anomaly, as it is the only true high-power light that fits inside my lightbox opening. As such, I don't have anything else to build a calibration standard around, and have to continue to rely on the ceiling bounce calibration method for the high-output lights.


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## TEEJ (Jul 25, 2013)

Great job as usual Sir!


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## orbital (Jul 25, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> ..Yes, it is my understanding that the filters/diffusers and secondary switch tailcap will NOT work on the standard version, only the kit version. The reason for this is the threaded bezel is only on the kit version, and there is an extra signal path for the tailcap (which I presume is that silver knob at the base of the battery compartment on my kit version). Of course, I may be wrong about that - I am simply going by what Eagletac reports, and I haven't personally seen a non-kit version of this design....



+

..thought of that just after I posted,,, it's has to be part of the Kit version & _tailswitch_ option


~thanks again


----------



## jorgemac (Jul 25, 2013)

Great review.
you will post any outdoor beamshots?


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 25, 2013)

jorgemac said:


> you will post any outdoor beamshots?


I will, just haven't made it out yet. Hope to do it over the next few weeks.


----------



## holylight (Jul 28, 2013)

Wooo very interesting light. Tks pal for the review.


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## Badbeams3 (Jul 28, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> I have this light. The only complain I have is that in the dark, it's hard to locate the on/off button. I solved that by sticking a small piece of luminous sticker on it. But only last 1/2 hour or so. *I think the nitecore method of having the button lighted up is a great idea that eagle tac should adapt for those light with side buttons.*
> 
> Selfbuilt, btw, you should indicate that those who did not buy the kit won't be able to use the accessories on their basic set like mine.. Anyway, my basic set did not feel like a diffuser is useful but the end cap switch would be!



I could not agree more. I am waiting to see what Nitecore brings to the table using this emitter. No low voltage warning light makes me continue the search...


----------



## holylight (Jul 29, 2013)

Low warning light is good and nice to have.


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## Stefano (Jul 31, 2013)

I made a comparison between Fenix ​​PD35 and Zebra SC600 MKII
After doing that I turned on my EagleTac SX25L3 MT-G2 and my eyes have told me thanks 

Beamshot:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?361481-pd35/page8


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## MichaelAng (Jul 31, 2013)

SX25L3 will blink every 30 sec or so when the battery level is too low.



holylight said:


> Low warning light is good and nice to have.


----------



## orbital (Aug 1, 2013)

Badbeams3 said:


> I could not agree more. I am waiting to see what Nitecore brings to the table using this emitter. No low voltage warning light makes me continue the search...



+

When the voltage gets low, it blinks once to let you know, every 30~60 seconds (the blink duration is neither fast or slow, _if that makes sense_)

When voltage gets very low, you cannot change up to the next level,
it goes to a *default Low* until you rotate back the the level you were previously at.

Also:: the SX25L3 really prefers protected cells, I'v done the test & it doesn't like unprotected cells at lower voltage,, it gets fussy


----------



## aristein (Aug 1, 2013)

Got mine last week. Of course my reaction was WOW! :thumbsup:. Really puts out a massive amount of light. Very floody, but 2375 lumens pushes that floody beam way out there (about 150-200 yards is as far as my eyes can reasonable make things out...I just can't see much details further than that unassisted). A couple things I was a little surprised by though (maybe I just wasn't paying attention/thinking): 1) it is heavier than I thought it would be. It is such a small package, that I just didn't expect it to be quite as dense/heavy. Not a big deal holding it, but I put it in my sweat pants pocket when going for a walk and it really drags them down....have to tighten that drawstring lol. 2) Not as easy to use the tail cap button in a tactical grip. Maybe my hands are smaller than I thought. But the combination of it being a little thicker than I thought, and the tailcap button being recessed and pretty firm, makes me have to twist my grip a little to get my thumb down into the button with enough force. I think you would have to have above average sized hands to be able to use the tailcap button comfortably in a tactical grip. 3) my first Eagletac light, and they really mean it when they say that you have to have a button-top 18650...because my flattop AW 18650's didn't work.


----------



## StudFreeman (Aug 2, 2013)

Thanks for the thorough review Selfbuilt. Eagletac definitely got this one right, starting with the 3S battery configuration.

I wanted this one before you did the review...now I might just have to indulge and take the plunge. Right now I'm trying to decide if the Kit version is worth the markup. Do you know if the extra tailswitch is electronic or a physical clicky? Hoping to see some beamshots of the white diffuser versus undiffused, too.
-SFreeman


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 2, 2013)

StudFreeman said:


> Right now I'm trying to decide if the Kit version is worth the markup. Do you know if the extra tailswitch is electronic or a physical clicky? Hoping to see some beamshots of the white diffuser versus undiffused, too.


The extra tailswitch is electronic, with similar feel to the main side switch (I know from my GX25A3/SX25A6 reviews).

Sorry, I don't plan to do diffuser beamshots (hard to capture well on a camera). But it helps at all, the Blizzard Creek see-through scope cover #7 (1.8-1.89") fits (although it is a tight fit). You could add diffuser film, and make it into an impromptu flip-top diffuser. I've described the process in this post, for a smaller light.


----------



## StudFreeman (Aug 3, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> The extra tailswitch is electronic, with similar feel to the main side switch (I know from my GX25A3/SX25A6 reviews).
> 
> Sorry, I don't plan to do diffuser beamshots (hard to capture well on a camera). But it helps at all, the Blizzard Creek see-through scope cover #7 (1.8-1.89") fits (although it is a tight fit). You could add diffuser film, and make it into an impromptu flip-top diffuser. I've described the process in this post, for a smaller light.


Understandable. Thanks for the heads up on your flip-up diffuser solution--I like it.


----------



## texbaz (Aug 4, 2013)

Thank you for the fantastic review. Ive had tons of lights over the years, maybe 1 or 2 of my lights have been where you loosen the head to change levels or modes. Looking at your pictures I can't see how the head maintains its IPX8 integrity if the head is moved from a seated position. I guess it all depends on where the seal is located on the body.

Had my mind set on a DDR30 for build and quality. Looked at the TK75 for retro look and value. But never even thought of the SX25L3 MT-G2 for me, based on some photo's it has a wall of light illuminating out to the sides, great for search/walking . Hope the build quality is as good as jetbeams, I plan on placing an order for the SX25L3 MT-G2 Kit version. Great review. (Seems like nobody has this light in stock)


----------



## MBentz (Aug 4, 2013)

texbaz said:


> Thank you for the fantastic review. Ive had tons of lights over the years, maybe 1 or 2 of my lights have been where you loosen the head to change levels or modes. Looking at your pictures I can't see how the head maintains its IPX8 integrity if the head is moved from a seated position. I guess it all depends on where the seal is located on the body.
> 
> Had my mind set on a DDR30 for build and quality. Looked at the TK75 for retro look and value. But never even thought of the SX25L3 MT-G2 for me, based on some photo's it has a wall of light illuminating out to the sides, great for search/walking . Hope the build quality is as good as jetbeams, I plan on placing an order for the SX25L3 MT-G2 Kit version. Great review. (Seems like nobody has this light in stock)



Eagletac-USA has both base and kit versions in stock. I just have the base version and I absolutely love it. :thumbsup:


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 4, 2013)

texbaz said:


> Thank you for the fantastic review. Ive had tons of lights over the years, maybe 1 or 2 of my lights have been where you loosen the head to change levels or modes. Looking at your pictures I can't see how the head maintains its IPX8 integrity if the head is moved from a seated position. I guess it all depends on where the seal is located on the body.)


That's because IPX8 makes no claim about using the light under water. Typically, testing is done with the light off the whole time.

If you search some of my other threads, you'll see I discuss the difference between the IPX and ansi standards in this regard. Short version, none require use or activation. Most light would likely fall upon activation, or through mode switching.

_EDIT: I also discuss this somewhat on my ANSI Fl-1 standards page at flashlightreviews.ca._


----------



## degarb (Aug 4, 2013)

There is some out door beam shots on the pd35 thread, which show impressive color rendering.

Now, I am having trouble remembering the "SX25L3" name of the light. Some electrical engineers come up with this one? Is there meaning to these letters or numbers? 

The L3, throws me off (xml2). Probably reference to the 3 cell, with L being short for 18650. 

SX25 refers to what?

Also, I own the TK35, because I decided the it would give me 8AA power, but be lighter. (I still am pondering ways to make the tk35 lighter through modification. So, I think that light would make a better weight comparison.


----------



## AngryDaddyBird (Aug 6, 2013)

Excellent Review! can't wait to see outdoor beamshots!
I have a kit on order because of your review so will be playing with my own soon! should be a great match to the GX25A3!


----------



## wunderhe (Aug 7, 2013)

Thanks for the review. I love this flashlight. It will replace my Fandyfire Darth, because it has nearly the same size (some Millimeters longer), is brighter and has a real low mode.


----------



## hikingman (Aug 8, 2013)

Selfbuilt, is there any hint you've picked up on that this new emitter will be available in that rechargeable GS/SX/MX25L2 series? Or is voltage the issue here?

2nd question: You measured 5.3 on lowest output but Eagletac says 28. That is quite a divergence. Is it likely that different samples vary alot at the lowest setting?

Dave


----------



## monkeyboy (Aug 10, 2013)

I'm measuring 640 micro amps standby drain on mine (mt-g2 version, non-kit) which equates to 221 days with 3400mAh batteries. Not good


----------



## SuperDavid (Aug 12, 2013)

monkeyboy said:


> I'm measuring 640 micro amps standby drain on mine (mt-g2 version, non-kit) which equates to 221 days with 3400mAh batteries. Not good


221 days no good?


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## AngryDaddyBird (Aug 13, 2013)

SelfbuiltDo you like the MT-G2 over the XM-L2 for general use Camping, property, ect.. ? Is the XM-L have sufficient spill for it or is it designed around throw?


----------



## degarb (Aug 13, 2013)

SuperDavid said:


> 221 days no good?




In real world, a half a year standby for a flashlight is horrible. 3 years is typical interval for non flashaholics, and even for flashaholics, many of my lights do stand by for half a year, since I have so many and need the extras for surge periods.

Though, in the real world, you could unscrew something, tape something, remove something, to make eliminate parasitic drain. Though, in the real world, it is easy to forget.


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 13, 2013)

AngryDaddyBird said:


> SelfbuiltDo you like the MT-G2 over the XM-L2 for general use Camping, property, ect.. ? Is the XM-L have sufficient spill for it or is it designed around throw?


The MT-G2 is not designed for throw (quite the opposite, in fact). I like it as a general beam, because it generally produces a large hotspot and bright spill. The XM-L2 version is really for those who want more throw (with less overall light output).

That said, I would think this could be overkill for camping.  I personally like much smaller lights, and don't need that kind of max output, when roughing it.


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## AngryDaddyBird (Aug 13, 2013)

good point. maybe its overkill. I will stick with the GX25A3 and my Zebralight H51w for camping. I just ordered the SX25L3 kit from Andrew & Amanda. I coun't resist this light. everyone is talking about the tint and beam so bought it off impulse. lol. I have a P60 linger special in 5000k and think the tint is perfect so will like this for sure. I like Neutral and warm tints over cool whites.
thanks for answering my question.


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## orbital (Aug 13, 2013)

^

The wide base of the SX25L3 allows for stable tailstanding
that, along w/ the beam pattern of the MT-G2 makes for very good room/tent lighting via ceiling bounce.

It's like a lantern, light cannon, emergency beacon and forest sweeper in one long running, compact unit..:wave:

_Keep your small edc handy for the hike_


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## AngryDaddyBird (Aug 13, 2013)

orbital said:


> ^
> 
> The wide base of the SX25L3 allows for stable tailstanding
> that, along w/ the beam pattern of the MT-G2 makes for very good room/tent lighting via ceiling bounce.
> ...


That is what I needed to hear! I order the kit version.


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## RCantor (Aug 13, 2013)

Finally, an upgrade to my Linger special  Can't wait for the beam shots. Too bad the Crelant has so many flaws. An infinitely variable light with 4-5000 Lm in a neutral tint would be ideal and the Crelant G10 comes closest.

Thanks for the great reviews.


----------



## xed888 (Aug 28, 2013)

Does anyone know if the unprotected NCR18650A cells fit in this light? Thanks


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## mattheww50 (Aug 29, 2013)

The short anwer is yes, unprotected cell fit.


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## orbital (Aug 30, 2013)

xed888 said:


> Does anyone know if the unprotected NCR18650A cells fit in this light? Thanks



+

You do need button top cells

No worries w/ good unprotected cells because the SX25L3 gives a _blink_ to let ya know it's time for a recharge.
_(each 18650 gets to around 3V when it gives the blink)_


*Really a terrific light*..:thumbsup:


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## mudjunky (Sep 18, 2013)

This is currently my favorite all around light. The flood is incredible. I used it on vacation where there were no street lights, and it illuminated the entire street.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 18, 2013)

mudjunky said:


> This is currently my favorite all around light. The flood is incredible. I used it on vacation where there were no street lights, and it illuminated the entire street.


Thanks for sharing. I have to say, I quite enjoy the beam profile of all the MT-G2 lights - huge output, nice big hotspot with tons of spill. And my preferred neutral white tint to boot.


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## YDrvSlo (Sep 22, 2013)

In the SB video overview, he uses two hands to adjust output. Is the head too stiff for one-hand output adjustment (thumb/index finger)? Guess I could tuck the head under my arm and then twist. 

Thanks!


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## Gravitron (Sep 23, 2013)

You can use one hand to adjust between 2 levels easily enough and then use the long button press to jump to turbo.



YDrvSlo said:


> In the SB video overview, he uses two hands to adjust output. Is the head too stiff for one-hand output adjustment (thumb/index finger)? Guess I could tuck the head under my arm and then twist.
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## selfbuilt (Sep 23, 2013)

Gravitron said:


> You can use one hand to adjust between 2 levels easily enough and then use the long button press to jump to turbo.


Yes, I would agree with this. Depending on the size off your hands though, it may be more of a challenge (especially if you want to move several levels).


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## xed888 (Oct 3, 2013)

does the head feel loose in the lowest mode? Is it one full turn to lowest mode? fancy getting one but not sold on the UI. anyone can alleviate my doubts?


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## orbital (Oct 4, 2013)

+

The head is not loose in low mode,, no worries.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 4, 2013)

orbital said:


> The head is not loose in low mode,, no worries.


Confirmed - you have a lot of threads left to turn before the head would come off (i.e., multiple revolutions left once you enter low).


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## phantom23 (Oct 4, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> From left to right: Eagletac Protected 18650 3400mAh, SX25L3; Niwalker BK-FA02; Crelant 7G10.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think descriptions should be the other way round


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## selfbuilt (Oct 4, 2013)

I've just updated the main thread with outdoor beamshots. :wave:

Al always, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). I think this batch of outdoor beamshots looks fairly good, due to all the Fall colors in the trees. 










The SX25L3 clearly has the lowest throw for the MT-G2 class so far. But you can also see how much brighter the spillbeam is (i.e., look at the bushes on the side of the path). It goes to show you the impact reflector design has on relative beam appearance. 

Also, please ignore any tint differences above – they are mainly due to the automatic white balance setting on the camera. In real life, the MT-G2 lights are consistently Neutral white.


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## Ryp (Oct 4, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> It goes to show you the impact reflector design has on relative beam appearance.



What kind of reflector design would give the best throw?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 4, 2013)

Ryp said:


> What kind of reflector design would give the best throw?


Basically,a large and relatively deep reflector.

It's obviously a little more complicated than that in practice - the exact curvature of the relfector matters greatly in how well it is able to collect the emitted light and focus it. But in general terms, the above statement stands.

Note that a small emitting source is also required for really tightly focused throw. Large emitters like the MT-G2 will always have a relative disadvantage. The Luminus SST-90, SBT-90, and SBT-70 series emitters in the Olight SR95 or Eagletac MX25L2 Turbo builds are good examples of how a smaller die lets a given reflector design throw further.


----------



## Atakdog (Oct 11, 2013)

Got mine the other day and love it except that it emits a terribly annoying high-pitched ringing sound on all but the highest level before it steps down. Anyone else had this problem?


By the way I contacted Eagletac about it and how I send it in for warranty service and they basically told me its my problem and I can work it out with the dealer I got it from.


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## GordoJones88 (Oct 12, 2013)

Atakdog said:


> Got mine the other day and love it except that it emits a terribly annoying high-pitched ringing sound on all but the highest level before it steps down. Anyone else had this problem?
> 
> By the way I contacted Eagletac about it and how I send it in for warranty service and they basically told me its my problem and I can work it out with the dealer I got it from.





Eagletac is correct. You are to contact the dealer you bought it from.

Here is the first line in the warranty section of the manual your light came with:

"For repair, replacement, or other inquiries contact your Eagletac dealer."


----------



## Atakdog (Oct 12, 2013)

GordoJones88 said:


> Eagletac is correct. You are to contact the dealer you bought it from.
> 
> Here is the first line in the warranty section of the manual your light came with:
> 
> "For repair, replacement, or other inquiries contact your Eagletac dealer."


Interesting; not what most other companies do. Anyways I have emailed the dealer about a week ago and havenot gotten a response yet.


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## mckeand13 (Oct 12, 2013)

Atakdog said:


> Anyways I have emailed the dealer about a week ago and havenot gotten a response yet.



Pick up the phone.


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## aristein (Oct 29, 2013)

Had mine for about 6 months now and love it. I took it to my brother's house for dinner last month. He is a cop, so I had him bring out his work streamlight (not sure the model, but it is a rechargeable about the size of a 3D Maglite). After he demonstrated his light shining it around the court he lives on, I told him "that isn't a flashlight....this is a flashlight" and proceeded to light up pretty much his entire court at once. I got the appropriate "holy sh*t! ...what is that?" LOL. It can be useful for smaller lumen situations as well. I just changed a bathroom faucet this weekend using this light. I just turned it down (second lowest setting...regular mode) and tail stood it under the sink pointing up at the faucet I was changing out. It was the perfect amount of light for working 3 feet away hands free. And it is still relatively very small and not in the way as I crawled under the sink. Fits nicely in my coat pocket as well for casual carry. I would definitely recommend getting the kit with this light as well (good holster, tailcap button (side button is hard to find and use in the dark as it is flush with the light, and handy diffusers/colored lenses).


----------



## harro (Oct 29, 2013)

> Got mine the other day and love it except that it emits a terribly annoying high-pitched ringing sound on all but the highest level before it steps down. Anyone else had this problem?



In answer to that question, no. Performs flawlessly.


----------



## degarb (Oct 29, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Basically,a large and relatively deep reflector.
> 
> It's obviously a little more complicated than that in practice - the exact curvature of the relfector matters greatly in how well it is able to collect the emitted light and focus it. But in general terms, the above statement stands.
> 
> Note that a small emitting source is also required for really tightly focused throw. Large emitters like the MT-G2 will always have a relative disadvantage. The Luminus SST-90, SBT-90, and SBT-70 series emitters in the Olight SR95 or Eagletac MX25L2 Turbo builds are good examples of how a smaller die lets a given reflector design throw further.



My question would be how big of a reflector would you need for the mt-g2 to get the lux per watt of a tiny Fenix HP11?

The answer with the xm-l is the size of the fenix TK-35 reflector. Lights like the https://www.fasttech.com/p/1324307 still seem to be 3/5 of the lux per watt of the hp11 (xpg r5), despite much larger reflector size and increased efficency of the xml.

Now, going from 300 milliamp at 4 volt, single 18650, to three 18650, I can see running up to 3x the wattage (and still get one full work day). So, you wouldn't need more than 1/3 the lux per watt to have the same throw as a small hp11 sized reflector with the xp-g. How big for that?


----------



## selfbuilt (Oct 29, 2013)

degarb said:


> My question would be how big of a reflector would you need for the mt-g2 to get the lux per watt of a tiny Fenix HP11?


Beats me. It's really hard to equate throw vs power over such a large scale, for extremely different classes of emitters.


----------



## degarb (Oct 29, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Beats me. It's really hard to equate throw vs power over such a large scale, for extremely different classes of emitters.



I guess to do the math for ya, I, ideally, would want a mtg + reflector north of 4500 candela at 300 to max of 350 milliamp at three 18650's in series. I really wouldn't care how big the reflector.


----------



## selfbuilt (Oct 29, 2013)

degarb said:


> I guess to do the math for ya, I, ideally, would want a mtg + reflector north of 4500 candela at 300 to max of 350 milliamp at three 18650's in series. I really wouldn't care how big the reflector.


Sorry, still doesn't help me much. As I only have a few examples of MT-G2 lights, and don't do measures of current draw, any comparison would be inexact. I suggest you check out the performance of the Niwalker bkfa02 and crelant 7G5MT to see if they are a better match for you. You will have estimate current draws from the runtimes though.


----------



## GordoJones88 (Nov 1, 2013)

degarb said:


> I would want a mtg + reflector north of 4500 candela at 300 to max of 350 milliamp at three 18650's in series.


 
Eagletac has released a new model *MX25L3*,
which is the SX25L3 with a bigger head for throw.
Everything else appears to be exactly the same including brightness.

SX25: 25k lux
MX25: 45k lux


----------



## degarb (Nov 4, 2013)

GordoJones88 said:


> Eagletac has released a new model *MX25L3*,
> which is the SX25L3 with a bigger head for throw.
> Everything else appears to be exactly the same including brightness.
> 
> ...




This light says it uses (or it will use) six XP-G2 S2 LEDs. Has Cree released the xp-g2 in the s2 bin yet. If not, when?


----------



## Glenn7 (Nov 4, 2013)

GordoJones88 said:


> Eagletac has released a new model *MX25L3*,
> which is the SX25L3 with a bigger head for throw.
> Everything else appears to be exactly the same including brightness.
> 
> ...



Button is raised and light is longer - but most of all I'm trying to understand the K lux figures, if the SX25L3 = 25K lux V's 45K Lux for MX25L3 it makes it nearly double then how come it only throws just over 100 meters more? I would have figured maybe 200 more at least.


----------



## degarb (Nov 4, 2013)

Glenn7 said:


> Button is raised and light is longer - but most of all I'm trying to understand the K lux figures, if the SX25L3 = 25K lux V's 45K Lux for MX25L3 it makes it nearly double then how come it only throws just over 100 meters more? I would have figured maybe 200 more at least.



Inverse square law. We live in a three dimensional world. To double the throw, you would need 4x the candela/lux at 1 meter.

I am still wondering about the s2 bin of the xp-g2.


----------



## Glenn7 (Nov 4, 2013)

degarb said:


> I am still wondering about the s2 bin of the xp-g2.



As in you want to buy one (s2 bin) or wondering about throw/beam quality? MT-G out throws it has and has better color temp.


----------



## degarb (Nov 4, 2013)

Glenn7 said:


> As in you want to buy one (s2 bin) or wondering about throw/beam quality? MT-G out throws it has and has better color temp.



Interesting. But not as in buy one, rather, I wondered if available or when available xp-g2 in rated s2. Looks like the *MX25L3 **doesn't use the mt-g2, but six xpg2's of s2 bin.*


----------



## Glenn7 (Nov 4, 2013)

degarb said:


> Interesting. But not as in buy one, rather, I wondered if available or when available xp-g2 in rated s2. Looks like the *MX25L3 **doesn't use the mt-g2, but six xpg2's of s2 bin.*


you may have missed that there are 4 new lights, the MX25L3"*C*" which will have ether 6x XP-G S2 or 6x Nichia 219 leds - And MX25L3 with MT-G or XM-L, these two having bigger reflectors for better throw.


----------



## GordoJones88 (Nov 4, 2013)

degarb said:


> Looks like the *MX25L3 **doesn't use the mt-g2, but six xpg2's of s2 bin.*



The light you are referring to is the MX25L3C or MX25L3 Compact.


----------



## Glenn7 (Nov 4, 2013)

Hmmm there's an Eco in here..... Thought I just said the same thing.


----------



## GordoJones88 (Nov 5, 2013)

Glenn7 said:


> Hmmm there's an Eco in here..... Thought I just said the same thing.



There is a 17-hour time difference between Australia and Tennessee . . .


----------



## Atakdog (Nov 6, 2013)

Due to the fact that Eagletac has a tendency to copy the good designs of other manufacturers (Olight s20 and Eagletac t20c2, Foursevens X7 and Eagletac G25c2), I think the xm-l version of the MX25l3 is designed to be a more compact copy of the Thrunite TN31 besides the interface.


----------



## MindToAsk (Nov 19, 2013)

Hey guys,

I received my sample yesterday. It is the non-kit version of the MT-G2. My light does not switch modes! It only runs on max. I am using brand new EagleTac 3400 mAh batteries, fully charged. When I loosen the head is switches off and comes back on when tightened. Is there any reason not to switch mode besides being defective?

Thank you.


----------



## selfbuilt (Nov 19, 2013)

MindToAsk said:


> I received my sample yesterday. It is the non-kit version of the MT-G2. My light does not switch modes! It only runs on max. I am using brand new EagleTac 3400 mAh batteries, fully charged. When I loosen the head is switches off and comes back on when tightened. Is there any reason not to switch mode besides being defective?


Should work fine with those cells. Sounds like a stuck/damaged pin in the head. Check with your dealer, but it sounds like you will need a replacement.


----------



## MindToAsk (Nov 20, 2013)

Yep, I thought so... Thanks. I will contact the dealer. 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## blackFFM (Nov 22, 2013)

I wish Eagletac would change their UI. Twisting the head is so outdated especially when a light is this big.


----------



## mckeand13 (Nov 22, 2013)

blackFFM said:


> I wish Eagletac would change their UI. Twisting the head is so outdated especially when a light is this big.



That is exactly why I started looking at the Thrunite TN30 and TN31. Tailcap switch with a rotary ring. Perfect. I just wish they had the battery slots in the body rather than a separate carrier.

Hopefully somebody here on CPF will have both the EagleTac and Thrunite lights and can do a comparison for the rest of us.


----------



## hikingman (Nov 22, 2013)

mckeand13 said:


> That is exactly why I started looking at the Thrunite TN30 and TN31. Tailcap switch with a rotary ring. Perfect. I just wish they had the battery slots in the body rather than a separate carrier.
> 
> Hopefully somebody here on CPF will have both the EagleTac and Thrunite lights and can do a comparison for the rest of us.



It is all in the mind of the beholder. I have the TN31 and a Deft-X with rotary rings and rear switch. While i love the multiple settings of those lights, i do NOT care for the rear switch, preferring it to be just where it always was 50 years ago (on the side). I have several eagletacs and actually love the interface which i find easy to use and remember.

Dave


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## brightnorm (Nov 23, 2013)

I just got the XM-L2 version. Before receiving it I had doubted the 1500 lumen figure, but now I'm a believer. It is significantly brighter and throws further than the Fenix TK-35 or the similar-performing Rofis SR51 (both reviewed by Selfbuilt). Actually, the difference is quite dramatic. My only reservation is slightly more blueish tint than I would like, but that's a minor gripe.
[h=2]Brightnorm[/h]


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## orbital (Nov 23, 2013)

brightnorm said:


> I just got the XM-L2 version. Before receiving it I had doubted the 1500 lumen figure, but now I'm a believer. It is significantly brighter and throws further than the Fenix TK-35 or the similar-performing Rofis SR51 (both reviewed by Selfbuilt). Actually, the difference is quite dramatic. My only reservation is slightly more blueish tint than I would like, but that's a minor gripe.
> *Brightnorm*



+

PM sent 
(there are two,, first one had a few spellin' errors)


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## the_x (Nov 25, 2013)

nice review thanks

very flooding output


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## Beakie (Dec 9, 2013)

Hi thanks for the information. I have a question, I am thinking of getting the SX25L3 MT-G2 and this will be my first larger multi battery torch. My only worry is that I have never had a torch with a twist adjuster and wonder how I will get on with this when I am used to using one hand with a push button. Ant thought would be gratefully received. Thanks Beakie


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## selfbuilt (Dec 9, 2013)

Beakie said:


> Hi thanks for the information. I have a question, I am thinking of getting the SX25L3 MT-G2 and this will be my first larger multi battery torch. My only worry is that I have never had a torch with a twist adjuster and wonder how I will get on with this when I am used to using one hand with a push button. Ant thought would be gratefully received. Thanks Beakie


Short version, it depends on the size of your hands, your grip strength, and how well lubed the head is. I can use the SX25L3 single-handed, but I don't find that the most comfortable.

And :welcome:


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## CottyGee (Dec 31, 2013)

Beakie said:


> Hi thanks for the information. I have a question, I am thinking of getting the SX25L3 MT-G2 and this will be my first larger multi battery torch. My only worry is that I have never had a torch with a twist adjuster and wonder how I will get on with this when I am used to using one hand with a push button. Ant thought would be gratefully received. Thanks Beakie


I have in my hands my brand new Eagletax SX25L3. It is BARELY possible to adjust it with 1 hand for me. I sure wouldn't want to drop the thing! I think it's really a two-hander - that one-handed hold the light with your pinky and ring finger while trying to twist with your index and middle finger thing is kinda dicey...


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## stevo250 (Jan 3, 2014)

Will this light work fine with keeppower 3400mah cells? Anyone tried it with them?


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## kj2 (Mar 12, 2014)

Under section specs; "Base model: includes GX25A3 flashlight"
A typo slipped through there


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## degarb (Mar 12, 2014)

You got my attention, it outthrows the TK35?

Well, I can shortcircuit any xpe direct drive light and get it to outthrow any light. The problem is runtime. This is why I rarely use my 850 lumen setting of the tk35. But I do use the 360 lumen settings for 7 hour stretches (actually 10 to 12 hours, because the 120 lumen setting is so throwy 4k cd) quite often.

So be clear, what current v. current, in relation to throw. What useful settings does a light have? While I can live with 4 hours (if brightness is stunning) and use 20 hours, the optimal is 8 to 10 hours: long enough to use every day, but not so long that you are compromising brightness.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 12, 2014)

kj2 said:


> Under section specs; "Base model: includes GX25A3 flashlight"
> A typo slipped through there


Thanks, fixed.



degarb said:


> So be clear, what current v. current, in relation to throw. What useful settings does a light have? While I can live with 4 hours (if brightness is stunning) and use 20 hours, the optimal is 8 to 10 hours: long enough to use every day, but not so long that you are compromising brightness.


The eagletac specs for output and runtime seem pretty good, based on my testing. The SX25L3 also has a relatively minor step-down on max.

In any case, my runtime graphs all use the same scale for output, so you can compare the graphs in this review to the ones in my Fenix TK35 review, for direct apple-to-apple comparisons of runtime at given output levels.


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## MBentz (Mar 12, 2014)

FYI - If you leave this light on its max brightness setting for longer than ~15-20 minutes, do not pick it up with bare hands. It will burn the hell out of you if you don't have quick reactions. Please do not ask me how I know. :fail:

I still really enjoy this light, and haven't seen another general purpose light with enough potential usefullness to dethrone this thing. I keep seeing good deals on the TM11 and TM15, but I can't justify the purchase, even though I want something different.


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## pageyjim (Mar 14, 2014)

Double post


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## moldyoldy (Apr 2, 2014)

Although my immediate problem is/was with my copy of the SX25L3, any Eagletac with the rotating head design is susceptible: This morning I noticed that the lens glass was a bit dirty, so I sprayed the front of the lens with eyeglass cleaner (1 pump), and polished off the water marks. except that I soon realized that the lens and the reflector were rotating inside the head w/o the head rotating. uh-oh. Then I noticed some condensation on the inside of the lens. sigh. The bezel was loose, too loose. I unscrewed the bezel and let the lens/reflector air out to remove any moisture. I then used a cotton swab to apply a thin coating of Nyogel on the gasket inside the bezel that seals the lens. All back together OK. All levels are functional.

My lesson: Rotating the head to change levels should be done by gripping the head away from the bezel. Unfortunately the bezel on the standard SX25L3 is rather wide (no kit), so some effort has to be made to avoid it,,,or remember to tighten the bezel once in a while.


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## bhonder (Apr 22, 2014)

moldyoldy said:


> Although my immediate problem is/was with my copy of the SX25L3, any Eagletac with the rotating head design is susceptible: This morning I noticed that the lens glass was a bit dirty, so I sprayed the front of the lens with eyeglass cleaner (1 pump), and polished off the water marks. except that I soon realized that the lens and the reflector were rotating inside the head w/o the head rotating. uh-oh. Then I noticed some condensation on the inside of the lens. sigh. The bezel was loose, too loose. I unscrewed the bezel and let the lens/reflector air out to remove any moisture. I then used a cotton swab to apply a thin coating of Nyogel on the gasket inside the bezel that seals the lens. All back together OK. All levels are functional.
> 
> My lesson: Rotating the head to change levels should be done by gripping the head away from the bezel. Unfortunately the bezel on the standard SX25L3 is rather wide (no kit), so some effort has to be made to avoid it,,,or remember to tighten the bezel once in a while.



May I suggest to put a little dab of medium thread locker? I use this to avoid screws from slipping out when I mount electric motors on my rc-models. Put just a little still and remove the excess with a paper napkin. 

You can unscrew the bezel applying very little force and does not ruins alluminum.

http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/zap-thread-locker


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## NCRick (May 18, 2014)

selfbuilt,

Thanks for that outstanding review, as well as for the incredible amount of information you have provided on this and many other models. For those like me looking to pick up a new addition it is very helpful seeing these types of reviews that break down the features and performance of the model as well as comparisons between others using the same type of emitter (and comparisons between emitters showing strengths/weaknesses of each).

I have several 1x18500 models all maxing out at around 800-960 lumens and had been trying to decide on a 2000+ lumen model to supplement my growing collection. I had been looking at the Nitecore TM26 which is a phenominal product. I just wasn't ready yet to put out ~$300 on a single model (I'm sure I'll get there eventually - LOL!). I had found this model recently online and it looked interesting at just under $135. I knew EagleTac was a good brand but didn't know much about this model until I checked here and found your review. After reading it I felt good about giving it a shot and made the purchase. I've only had it for a little under a week so far but my initial impressions are that it is quite an amazing light and certainly a good buy for the price. I tend to like throw over spill but since my TK41 (latest 900 lumen upgrade) can already shoot light like a laser I figured I could compromise here.

I'm sure many others are more qualified that me to give advice on models but I can say from personal experience that this is a good light to try if you are stepping up for the first time into a multi-18500 light with 1800-2000+ lumen output. The base model at $135 certainly helps step up without breaking the bank or going with some cheap unknown brand from China that are sold very cheap on both eBay and Amazon. Avoid all those unknown brands with ridiculous lumen claims selling for about the same price of a single decent protected 18500 cell. I have seen YouTube tests done on a few of them and they are dangerous as hell.

---Rick


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## InspectHerGadget (May 18, 2014)

Hi Rick,
it is a very high quality light. I've got the MX25L3 with the MT-G2. I only got it as the vendor tested it and found the SX they were sending was faulty so they offered it instead.

it is the most compact light of this much power on the market.

i like the UI and they've chosen the output levels well. I use mine every night on my long walks into our swamp/park. It is also easy to carry on my belt as I use my headlamp also.

it is about as big and heavy as I would like,any bigger might be too much.


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## selfbuilt (May 18, 2014)

NCRick said:


> The base model at $135 certainly helps step up without breaking the bank or going with some cheap unknown brand from China that are sold very cheap on both eBay and Amazon. Avoid all those unknown brands with ridiculous lumen claims selling for about the same price of a single decent protected 18500 cell.


Yes, it is a good quality light for the price. For those interested, you can get additional outdoor pics and comparisons of the SX25L3 in my more recent Fenix TK35UE and Thrunite TN35 reviews.



InspectHerGadget said:


> it is a very high quality light. I've got the MX25L3 with the MT-G2.... it is the most compact light of this much power on the market. i like the UI and they've chosen the output levels well. I use mine every night on my long walks into our swamp/park. It is also easy to carry on my belt as I use my headlamp also.


Yes, the MX25L3 looks like a good choice as well. I haven't tested it, but it looks like it should provide a bit more throw.


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## InspectHerGadget (May 19, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, it is a good quality light for the price. For those interested, you can get additional outdoor pics and comparisons of the SX25L3 in my more recent Fenix TK35UE and Thrunite TN35 reviews.
> 
> 
> Yes, the MX25L3 looks like a good choice as well. I haven't tested it, but it looks like it should provide a bit more throw.



It is a good one. I got it on the basis of the SX review that you did so THANK YOU.

Not everyone likes the UI (a truism, not everyone likes any UI) but I find it super simple and effective and it simplifies the design and allows the light to be more compact.


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## NCRick (May 20, 2014)

It's kind of funny that the two of you mentioned the models that you did. When trying to narrow down my decision, the TK35UE, TN35 (and TN30) and the MX25L3 were among my final choices. The TK75 and TM26 were the others. The reviews here really helped me with my decision. The SX25L3 won out because of what I felt was "bang for the buck" as well as giving me a chance to get into both a 3x18500 model as well as trying out the new MT-G2 emitter. So far I am pleased and it fills one of a few gaps in my arsenal. The price was appealing as well since I really am set on getting a TM26 in the near future so I didn't want to go much higher right now. Only the TK35UE was around the same price but the beam intensity just didn't seem to appeal to me and the reviews on here proved that I probably wouldn't have been satisfied had I chosen that model.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I'm sure I will be adding to my collection as my budget allows and what deals I can find for models of interest. Thanks to all of you that post such detailed reviews complete with beam shots and test results. It's great to be able to quickly find expert opinions so easily on here if I see a good deal online and want to know more than just the posted manufacturer specs. Seeing pics of actual use in various settings really helps in understanding what to expect from a particular model.

---Rick


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## InspectHerGadget (May 20, 2014)

Very good. As a general purpose torch and uber powerful, it can't be beat. It is also super compact. If you carry it with you I'd recommend the holster which is very well designed and comfortable. I use my MX25L3 every night on walks and love it.


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## NCRick (May 20, 2014)

I have been trying to find a suitable holster since I got it. I thought I might have had it worked out using a camera lens case I no longer use for that purpose but unfortunately my SX25L3 is just maybe a 1/2 inch too long. :sigh:

Photography is another of my hobbies so I still think a lens case may be the way to go. I like the fact that they have a little padding and many have a Velcro strap that can be used as a belt loop. I had been using my SRT7 as my general purpose light but the big boost in lumens and beam width are advantageous. I like to sit out back on my patio late nights to relax and it's comforting knowing I have a light cannon at my disposal should any wildlife emerge from the back woods. It's a great non-lethal protection device should I need to spook something away or at least stun until I can retreat. I can certainly understand why many like to take these on their night walks or late dog walks.

Lights like these can be expensive but they do function as a potentially valuable tool for a variety of purposes in addition to just the general enjoyment that it appears most on here have just playing around with them for fun. :twothumbs


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## InspectHerGadget (May 21, 2014)

Just buy a holster off ebay or from a dealer. They're about $13. Money well spent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rigid-Holst...269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d4e87775


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## NCRick (May 21, 2014)

Thanks so much for that link. That is almost exactly what I was looking to find. I would have used a zippered-top lens case if needed but I like the accessibility that this one offers.

Next time I pick up something new I will be sure to check and see if a holster is provided. With the exception on my TK41 which came in a nice plastic storage case I had always received a holster as part of the package and being fairly new to higher end models I incorrectly assumed a holster was provided unless a case was specified/shown to be part of the package. I can easily clip something like a PD35 to my cargo shorts or jeans pocket but it's a bit tougher trying to stuff a soda can sized light in a pocket.  LOL


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## selfbuilt (May 21, 2014)

NCRick said:


> Thanks so much for that link. That is almost exactly what I was looking to find. I would have used a zippered-top lens case if needed but I like the accessibility that this one offers.


Yes, that is the official Eagletac holster (as shown in the main review). I find it works well to carry the light (bezel up).


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## NCRick (Jun 4, 2014)

Thanks again for the comments and support for this model as well as the suggestion for the holster. I found the exact same model holster on Amazon through a Marketplace vendor "Lumen Tactical" (no affiliation in any way other than being a satisfied customer after multiple purchases from them) and I just received the holster this past weekend. The recommendation was spot on and works/fits as good as I could have hoped. My EagleTac is all set for belt carry now.
:twothumbs

I doubt I will find a belt holster for my TK61. With the head diameter/circumference size the holster would have to be enormous. The included shoulder strap does a fine job however. I have to give Nitecore kudos once again for supplying a very nice kit holster with my latest acquisition that just came this past Monday - the 3800 lumen XML2 TM26. The power packed in a package that size is just unbelievable! Luckily my wedding anniversary is the day after Fathers Day this year so I was able to pull off one more purchase for now.

Now I just need to start saving for my TK75vn and come up with another reason why I need another mega-light. Hmm...


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## Mr. Tone (Jun 4, 2014)

stevo250 said:


> Will this light work fine with keeppower 3400mah cells? Anyone tried it with them?



Yes, I have two sets of Keeppower 3400 protected batteries that work perfect in my MX25L3. It has the same body and reverse polarity protection tabs as the SX25L3.


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## MikeyMay8 (Jun 17, 2014)

Thanks for the review Selfbuilt! You've gotten me really interested in this light, enough to join CPF.

One question I have is the runtime on 6xCR123a batteries. I don't think I'd use the light often enough to warrant getting 18650's and I have many CR's here for my other lights. I currently EDC an Eagletac D25C2 Mini and it's fantastic. 

I'd love to replace my Fenix TK41 (original XM-L) with the SX25L3 but the only thing stopping me is the uncertainty of runtime on 6x123's.

Can you or anyone else here confirm the runtime of 6xCR123a batteries in the SX25L3?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 17, 2014)

MikeyMay8 said:


> I'd love to replace my Fenix TK41 (original XM-L) with the SX25L3 but the only thing stopping me is the uncertainty of runtime on 6x123's.


It's a good question. I don't have a lot of data on 6xCR123A vs 3x18650 (especially in fully regulated lights). But in general terms, I would expect 6xCR123A to have close (but just slightly less) max runtime compared to the3x2200mAh 18650 cells used here.

On paper, the power capacity of these types of cells is similar (i.e. 3x 2200mAh x3.7V nominal = 24,420 for 18650 vs 6x 1400mAh x3.0V nominal = 25,300 for CR123A). Of course, there are some big assumptions built in there as to what constitutes a true nominal voltage and true current density at relatively high drive levels (i.e., charge capacity is typically based on low discharge currents, and these things are not equivalent at higher levels for different battery chemistries). 

In my actual high-drain runtime testing of other lights, I find 4x/6x CR123A typically come in a bit under the 2x/3x 2200mAh cells. I would expect something similar here. I really don't have any data at lower output level on CR123A to meaningfully compare, but it again is probably not hugely different.


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## GearDog (Jun 19, 2014)

Hello, can the flashlight be put head-down into the holster? Or does it have to face head-up? :duh2:

Thanks


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## selfbuilt (Jun 20, 2014)

Mach1ne said:


> Hello, can the flashlight be put head-down into the holster? Or does it have to face head-up? :duh2:


It can go in head down. But it slides in easier if you do it bezel up.


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## MikeyMay8 (Jun 22, 2014)

Thanks again Selfbuilt! You've really helped me make a decision on this light.

Rock on! :rock:


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## InspectHerGadget (Jun 23, 2014)

Hi MikeyMay,

These are extraordinarily powerful lights and the quality is obvious in every detail. I have the MX25L3 which is the same but with a deeper reflector and bigger head. It is a very floody beam and it amazing what it will light up. I find myself using it most of the time at half power and sometimes less. I probably use it 4-5 hours per week for walking and it is just great. The holster is nice to have too. I carry my ThruNite TN12 and also wear a Lenser H14R.2 when I go out. I sometimes find the headlamp is nice to use for a change and it keeps the hands free. I think these lights are the goldilocks of lights with huge power but still light enough to easily carry on a belt, making it easy to live with. I only got the MX model as they had run out of the SX model. I think I would have been happy with either though. I charge mine every night although at the moment I'm on my second night and I'm going to see just how many nights it will last. I have the Panasonic NCR 18650B 3400mAh in mine which fit fine.

The controls with the rotating head and the light levels is 10/10, for me anyway. The only other comment is on the kit or no kit. I personally like the stainless steel bezel but never use the diffuser or filters and rarely use the rear switch. The included holster and the bezel are really the only two things for me that make the kit worthwhile.

Overall, pleased with this light and thanks to Selfbuilt for his reviews and considerate and helpful responses to questions.


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## guitarhero (Jun 23, 2014)

Hey y'all,
just got my eagtac sx25l3 mt g2 but I discovered a high frequency noise in the second brightest setting.
also, the beampatten seems to be quite"ringy", looks a bit like a maglite up close.
anybody else with similar issues?


thanks in advance 
guitarhero


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## selfbuilt (Jun 23, 2014)

guitarhero said:


> just got my eagtac sx25l3 mt g2 but I discovered a high frequency noise in the second brightest setting.
> also, the beampatten seems to be quite"ringy", looks a bit like a maglite up close.
> anybody else with similar issues?


The high freq hum is likely inductor whine - a relatively common, although hard to anticipate, issue on many lights. It is an occasional occurrence that you can't really predict (i.e., hard to know which lights will be affected). If it is sufficient to be distracting, I would consider returning. The ringy beam sounds far more peculiar - there shouldn't be any issue with MT-G2 lights. Can you post pics of the beam or the emitter/reflector?


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## Mr. Tone (Jun 24, 2014)

guitarhero said:


> Hey y'all,
> just got my eagtac sx25l3 mt g2 but I discovered a high frequency noise in the second brightest setting.
> also, the beampatten seems to be quite"ringy", looks a bit like a maglite up close.
> anybody else with similar issues?
> ...



When you say up close, do you mean like a couple inches away? If so, the beam will not have developed at all yet.


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## pparmenter (Jun 25, 2014)

just checked mine, no hum in any mode (eagtac 2400 mah) also no ringy beam at all even super up close. sure you got the genuine article?


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## guitarhero (Jun 30, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> The high freq hum is likely inductor whine - a relatively common, although hard to anticipate, issue on many lights. It is an occasional occurrence that you can't really predict (i.e., hard to know which lights will be affected). If it is sufficient to be distracting, I would consider returning. The ringy beam sounds far more peculiar - there shouldn't be any issue with MT-G2 lights. Can you post pics of the beam or the emitter/reflector?




The rings appear within roughly 3-5 feet from the wall. May that be caused by the led, which is quite off center? 
I will post pics asap, do pictures from an ipad work? 
Thanks in advance, 
greets from germany, 
guitarhero


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## selfbuilt (Jun 30, 2014)

guitarhero said:


> The rings appear within roughly 3-5 feet from the wall. May that be caused by the led, which is quite off center?
> I will post pics asap, do pictures from an ipad work?


iPad pics would do, but you need to upload to a photosharing site like photobucket, imageshack, etc. A clear shot of both the emitter and white wall beam pattern would help.


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## LeukTech (Aug 3, 2014)

guitarhero said:


> Hey y'all,
> just got my eagtac sx25l3 mt g2 but I discovered a high frequency noise in the second brightest setting.
> also, the beampatten seems to be quite"ringy", looks a bit like a maglite up close.
> anybody else with similar issues?
> ...



I just recently got the SX25L3 MT-G2 (non-kit) and mine has the same ringy artifacts up close (really noticeable within 3 feet or less on a white-wall, especially on the lower modes). Two rings are noticeable, one right around the hotspot, and the other on the outer perimeter of the spill. 

However in practice and using the light it isn't noticeable unless illuminating a close-up surface that is all the same color (like a wall). Once it gets past 4-5 feet the beam looks nice and smooth, and the hotspot is a defined circle with no rings. But the outer ring does still show up past 4-5 feet, but it isn't too bad. I personally think the rings are coming from the area just next to the LED, which is a shiny circle.

Tried to take some pics, but it just doesn't show up right. This is the best I could do. Ring around hotspot is evident in pic, but the outer ring isn't (ignore the other rings, those are just from the camera, and I don't see it in person). Outer ring is just like the inner ring, but on the edge of the spill. Apparent dark ring with brighter light on both sides. 








Shot of the emitter straight on (or at least close to straight on, blue is from the AR coating)






Other than that the SX25L3 is amazing. Super bright, beautiful non-rainbow tint (tint is consistent throughout hotspot and spill), and has decent throw with a defined round "moon" hotspot (instead of the hotspot fading/blurring with the spill as with most OP reflectors, it is a pretty well defined circle, more like a smooth reflector light). 

It does work with flat-top 3400mAh AW's, but this is likely more luck than anything. As it didn't work for me the first few times inserting the batteries, then it just started working (sometimes the light needs a little tap on the tailcap to get it to work, but once it lights up it is 100% reliable from there on out until you unscrew the tailcap again). However I suggest that you stick with button tops if you can afford to drop another $60 for batteries if you only have flattop 3400's. 

Crazy bright light though, and I recently had my Solorforce K3 MT-G2 head modified by Vinh to draw 3A from the batteries (on two Li-ion cells). Its close in brightness, but it is a bit more floody than the SX25L3, so it doesn't appear as bright even though the lumens may be about the same. The SX25L3 has a smaller hotspot than a SC600w (version 1), and is just about exactly the same hotspot size as a Zebralight SC62d (but has a more defined round hotspot).

Also I have noticed from pictures that the non-kit version of the SX25L3 seems to be shorter than the kit version (by what seems like around 1/4"). I took this picture below from a German review of the light from another forum. You can clearly see the non-kit version is shorter, which is quite interesting.







Also I find that finding the switch (on the side, since I have the non-kit version) isn't hard at all. I just feel for the cutouts in the bezel area (which are flattened) right above the switch, and move my finger down a bit for the button. Doing that I can rotate the light and find the switch nearly instantly out of a pocket.

One downside to this light is the slippery anodized finish with very light knurling and a same size body throughout that weighs nearly a pound (15.6oz to be exact, fully loaded with 3400mAh AW's). I don't feel as confident in my grip with the light as I do with lights that have a head that is wider than the body. It just feels like I could drop it at any moment, especially with sweaty, balmy or wet hands. It has that feeling like I would need to use the lanyard attachment to avoid accidental drops.

Great light though, just wish ET would secure the head a little better when loosening for lower modes. As with both my TX25C2 and the SX25L3, if the head is loosened for lower modes, it is noticeably loose if you press down on the bezel or jiggle the head around. Sometimes the mode can even change briefly by moving the head around/pushing it down. They really need to ditch the loosening of the head thing and go for a magnetic type of switch that also has an audible click and markings on the side of the light for which mode it will be in when you turn it on. So far this is the biggest letdown with Eagletac for me, if they got the switching modes thing fixed these lights would be almost unbeatable.


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## plata0190 (Oct 26, 2014)

Hi i bought 10 keeppoweer 3400mah 18650 but have a big issue. I bought them because as specifications they cuts off at 2.50V, but with my eagletac SX25L3 in turbo that uses 3 18650 in series, one battery cuts off at only 3.30V !!!
I know when in use they are stressed up and the voltage drops lower than 3.30, but it must to drop from 3.30 to 2.50v and it is about 0.80V!!! this would be that a standard protected battery tath cuts off a 2.80V would cuts the power at 3.60v in this torch.

In this case or specifications are not correct for this PCS, or there is an issue on the battery.

PS: to prevent damages or explosion i charged all 3 18650 at the same voltage

Let me know
thank you


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