# LiteFlux LF2XT Review (1xAAA) - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!



## selfbuilt (Jul 5, 2009)

_*Reviewer's Note: *The black LF2XT was provided for review by CPF dealer LED Cool. Please see his Dealer's thread in CPFM for more info. _

*Warning: Pic heavy!*

*Manufacturer's specifications, as taken from LED Cool's CPFMP thread:*

LED : CREE XP-E Q4 Neutral White tint (limited run R2 Cool White tint available soon)
Input voltage : 0.9V - 4.50V (AAA/10440)
AAA battery chemistry : Alkaline(1.5V), NIMH(1.2V), NICD(1.2), Primary Lithium(1.7V) & rechargeable Li-Ion 10440(4.2V)
Uses PWM at high frequency. No flickering at min output.
Removeable Orange peel aluminium reflector.
Centered LED.
Coated glass lens.
Finish : HA III BLACK or NATURAL.
Single o ring seal at lens, battery tube and tail cap.
Stainless steel tail cap with laser engraving.
Stable tail stand when stainless steel clip or keyring is installed.
All parts can be dismantle for cleaning and maintenance.
Water resistant for daily normal use. NOT suitable for diving or swimming.
Size: Length 81mm, Diameter 14.55mm (bezel)
Standard accessories: Wooden gift box, stainless steel clip, stainless steel keyring attachment, spare O rings, A small container of silicon lubricant for the o-rings, Chinese and English operation manual.
2-in-1 EDC light because it has 2 User Interfaces. Compact User Interface (CUI), which is the factory default UI, and Full-function User Interface (FUI).
CUI is those who prefer a simple straight forward UI, while FUI is for those who prefer to set up thier EDC light exactly the way they prefer.
Both UI provides battery over discharge protection. please refer to the user manual for more info.







The LF2XT is the newest member of the clicky-based LiteFlux family, bringing a revised version of their innovative circuit to the 1xAAA form factor. Building on their 1xCR123A/RCR model, the LF3XT, the LF2XT again features two separate user interfaces that you can switch between at will. 

The Compact User interface (CUI) is very similar to the Nitecore D10/EX10, and the Full User Interface (FUI) allows full programmable control over the light (similar to Novatac or Ra lights). The CUI is a model of simplicity, and very easy to use right out of the box.






The LiteFlux packaging is similar among all models, and comes with a nice wooden presentation box. Light comes with a pocket clip installed, and package contains a manual, replacement keychain clip and split-ring, spare o-rings, and lube. 









(from left to right: 1xAAA Duracell, LF2XT Natural, Lumapower Avenger GX, Fenix L0D, JetBeam Jet-µ, Nitecore EZAA, LF2XT Black)

Both the Natural finish and Black finish lights are shown above (I installed keychain clip in the Natural finish light). I personally like the medium-gray colour of the Natural finish, as it should make anodizing nicks and damage after prolonged keychain carry less noticeable. There is a slight mismatch in the natural finish between the head and body, but this is common on all natural finish lights (due to different batches of anodizing).


















Despite the clicky switch and interior battery tube, size and weight remain fairly low. 

Weight: 21.1g (Nat), 21.3g (black) with pocket clip installed (-0.5g if keychain ring clip installed)
Length x Width: 81.2mm x 14.9mm (bezel widest portion)






Clicky feel is similar to the other LiteFlux LFxXT series. Unlike a traditional clicky switch with a long traverse, these are more like the electronic switches that you will find on a number of modern devices (e.g. LCD monitors, DVD players, etc.). Only a light touch is required to activate the switch.

Fit and finish are excellent on my samples (sorry for the dusty and grainy pics above - it was an overcast day). The minimal lettering on the stainless steel tailcap is very clear and sharp, and the type-III hard anodizing is flawless on both samples. I like the fact that labels are kept to a minimum.  

What little knurling that is present is pretty mild, but the concentric ridges and raised portions all along the length help considerably with grip. I find the installed pocket clip to be a bit on the thin side, but given the low weight of the light should work fine. Good that you can easily switch it for the keychain clip, which is my preferred carry for 1xAAA lights.

Screw threads are anodized for head lock-out, and the light can tailstand. :thumbsup:






The light uses the new smaller Cree Q5 XP-E emitter, currently with a Q4 output bin and "neutral tint" bin of 4C. For those of you not familiar with tints, standard white LEDs are considered to be "cool tint", and what most people call warm tints are in fact "neutral" or "neutral-warm". For more information on tints and color perception, please see my Colour tint comparison and the summary LED tint charts found here. 

My first impression when I turned on the LF2XT was "Wow, that's a nice tint." oo: I am not personally a fan of the common neutral-warm Cree tints such as 5A (I find them a bit too orange in actual use). In contrast, the 4C is a lot more yellow than orange, and closer to incandescent in my eyes. Note that a limited run on LF2XT with cool white R2 emitters is also in the works (WH tint, which is toward the warmer green/yellow range of cool white tints).

XP-E emitters with textured reflectors typically have fairly smooth beams with minimal Cree rings, and the LF2XT is no exception. The reflectors have at least a medium level of orange peel texturing.

*Comparison Beamshots*

All lights are on 100% on Sanyo Eneloop (NiMH), about 0.5 meters from a white wall. 














The camera is accentuating the tint difference a bit, but the Fenix L0D (older Cree P4 model) does indeed have a slight bluish Cool White tint. The Lumapower Avenger GX is on the warm end of Cool White (maybe a WG-WH tint). The LF2XT is not as orange as the pic above suggests – a lot more yellow (4C neutral tint). 

The LF2XT beam is very smooth, with an even transition from hotspot to spill. :thumbsup:

*User Interface*

Like its big brother the LF3XT, the LF2XT is a remarkably versatile light with two user-selectable interfaces that should please KISS-fans as well those wanting a fully user-customizable light. :kiss: 

In Compact User Interface (CUI), the light is remarkably similar to the Nitecore D10/EX10 - but with a few differences. With the head fully tightened, click for on/off. When on, press and hold to begin the ramp, release to select the desired level. Shortcuts to Min (double-click) and Max (click-press/hold) are included. 

The main complaint with the D10/EX10 interface is that your custom-set level is erased when you use the shortcuts (i.e. jump to Min, and Min is now your new custom-set level). In contrast, the LF2XT/LF3XT retains the user-selected output even when shortcuts are used. The shortcuts are actually a toggle - e.g. double-click for Min, double-click again or turn off/on and you are back to your pre-selected user level. This is actually very useful for those that like to keep a user-defined level.  

Note however that the LiteFlux is different in that it always retains the memory of the user-defined level, even if the light is turned off after a shortcut has been used. (i.e. it also reverts back to user-defined level when turned back on) See my post #23 for a greater discussion of how this differs in practice from the NiteCore lights.

You can also re-program your LF2XT/LF3XT to act as a momentary-on instead of click-on (like you can do on the EX10 by unscrewing the head slightly), but I find this less useful for keychain carry.

The Full-function User Interface (FUI) is much more complex, and similar to the older LF5XT. Again, although the light is easy to use in practice once programmed, I you will need to refer to the manual when you want to re-program any features. Please refer to LED Cool's dealer thread on CPFMP or the LF2XT discussion thread here on CPF for more info on how to use it (there's also a programming flowchart available, for those more visually-inclined).

Low Voltage Cut-off

One key feature that can be toggled on/off from either UI is the low voltage over-discharge protection system (4 clicks + press-and-hold from the On state toggles it on/off in either UI mode). This cut-off protection applies to all battery types on the LF2XT, so you will only want to have it on for Li-ion (10440) and NiMH (2.8V and 0.8V cut-off, respectively). 

This is an incredibly useful feature, since protected Li-ion is not possible in the 1xAAA size (and over-draining Li-ion even once could destroy the cell, and risk serious damage if attempted to re-charge). It's also very useful on NiMH - although many don't realize it, allowing your NiMH cells to drain to zero and stay there for any length of time is also damaging for the cells. :tsk:

_*UPDATE July 6, 2009:* I forgot to mention it, but the over-discharge protection (ODP) feature also has another characteristic - it gives you a few warning flashes before the battery cuts-out. On my Natural LF2XT (i.e. LF2XT #1 in the runtimes below), the light started flashing intermittently within a couple of minutes before cutting out. These flashes are fairly slow, but increase in frequency just before shut down. However, since they only start in the last couple of mins, they weren't picked up in any of the runtime traces (where output is sampled at 30 sec intervals). My Black LF2XT seems to start showing the flashing a minute or two earlier, so you may begin to see some dips on the runtime curves near the end of those runs.

Also, BabyDoc informs me that the optional 3-minute Auto-Off feature is incompatible with the ODP - due to circuit limitations, turning on the Auto-Off feature toggles the ODP off. The Auto-Off feature may be useful to you if you are worried about accidental activation - but I think locking out the head for EDC carry is a much better idea. If you do use the Auto-Off, keep in mind the lack of ODP._

Pulse-Width-Modulation (PWM)

Like all continuously-variable lights, the LF2XT uses PWM to create its lower output modes. As usual for LiteFlux, the PWM is at a sufficiently high frequency as to be undetectable by the naked eye. :thumbsup: I measured my LF2XT samples at a frequency of 1.92 kHz (i.e. 1920 cycles per second), at all output levels including Max.

*LF2XT*





Basically, you will only be able to detect this level of PWM if you shine the light at a very rapidly moving fan (and even then, the effect is subtle). Note that this frequency is slower than the earlier LF3XT, which was around 7.8 kHz (sound card oscilloscope trace shown at the same scale below)

*LF3XT*





Either way, it is not a concern – you won't notice it on either light in practice (unlike <300 Hz PWM, which I typically find very :green

Response Lag

One last thing to note – due to how the MCU operates, there is a brief lag before a button press is registered and the light responds (except for turning on, which is instantaneous). As such, you can't rapidly double-click within 0.3 secs, or the light won't register the two separate actions (i.e. you have to allow 0.3 secs between each click). This takes some getting used to - but once you master taking it a bit slower, you should have no problems controlling the light.

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*






_*Note in the comparison above that my Fenix L0D is an early edition with a Cree P4.* Based on a 350mA drive current (where Cree Output bins are determined), a Cree Q4 emitter would be expected to be ~25% brighter on average, and a Cree R2 would be ~40% brighter on average, for the same drive current. Note there is typically a ~7% output range over which an emitter is binned, so those numbers are just representational averages. _

My two LF2XT samples are fairly close to each other in terms of Max output on most batteries, but are a little more variable in terms of throw (likely due to exact reflector placement during assembly). They are certainly well within the range I expected, and both have very good throw and output for this class of light – on all batteries.

Min output is remarkably low, although not quite as low as my LF3XT samples (which were 0.2-0.3 ROV for CR123A, and 0.4-0.5 for RCR). But the only other 1xAA or 1xCR123A lights that go as low as the LF3XT in my testing are the 4Sevens Quark and Novatac 120P (both ~0.2 ROV).

_*UPDATE April 13, 2015:* In the years since this review came out, I have revised my testing protocol to provide more accurate ANSI FL-1 type measures. Specifically, I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

I now also produce summary tables, reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).

Here is how the LF2XT (black version, on both NiMH AAA and 10440 Li-ion) from this review compares to more modern lights:






While max output is not as high, the LF2XT still remains quite competitive (especially on 10440). It also has among the lowest Min output I've seen in this class._

*Variable Output Ramping*






The CUI of the LF2XT uses a visually-linear ramp upon press-and-hold (shown above). It is in fact very similar in time scale to the LF3XT.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*






Note above that I inadvertently left the low-voltage protection feature turned on for the Max alkaline run.  As you can see, this triggers a shut-down of the light while the battery still has a lot of charge remaining. I immediately restarted the light and toggled off the protection for the remainder of the run.






All the initial runtimes (shown below) were done on the Natural finish sample (labelled LF2XT #1). I have done a few additional runs on the Black finish sample (labelled LF2XT #2). 










































*Output/Runtime Comments:*

I don't have a lot of 1xAAA lights to compare to, and I would remind everyone again that my Fenix L0D is only a Cree P4 output bin (i.e. a Q4 would typically be ~25% brighter for the same drive current). 

But I am VERY impressed with the output/runtime performance of the LF2XT on all batteries, at all levels. Performance is simply outstanding! :bow:

A lot of lights don't work too well on AAA alkaline batteries (due to their lower storage capacity and discharge limits), but the LF2XT is very impressive at all outputs. Of course, I don't recommend alkalines given their propensity to leak and potentially damage the light they are in.

Certainly no qualms about recommending any form of NiMH, including Sanyo Eneloops. A *really* nice feature is the low-voltage cut-off protection, which will prevent you from running down you NiMH cells and potentially damaging them. Good job – I wish more manufacturers would implement this! :thumbsup: Note that there is some variability in max output and runtime on the two samples I tested on Eneloops – this likely reflects Vf difference between the sample emitters.

And I am frankly stunned by how long my AW 10440 Li-ion batteries last in these lights oo: (again, protected thanks to the light's low voltage cut-off feature). There was a bit variability in output/runtime between two batches of 10440s in my collection (both purchased in 2007 and barely used), so YMMV. And you can see that my second LF2XT has shorter runtime than the first. But certainly a great way to pack a lot of storage density into a small form factor (and in a fully supported and protected way).

*Potential Issues*

As mentioned previously, there is ~0.3 sec lag in responding to button presses (aside from turning On, which is instantaneous). Button also has a much shorter traverse and is softer feeling than a standard clicky - in keeping with being an electronic switch as opposed to a traditional switch. Not really problems per se, just a different set of expectations that may take some getting used to.

Although undocumented, BabyDoc confirms that enabling the auto-shut-off feature (i.e. shuts down after 3mins of runtime) automatically disables the low-voltage over-discharge protection (ODP) for NiMH/Li-ion. Apparently there are a limited number of memory positions for the light, and you can't have both features running simultaneously.

*General Observations*

I said it in my LF3XT review, and I'll say again here - I'm very impressed with this light so far. :twothumbs

I think LiteFlux suffers from a perception issue that their circuits are just too complicated to operate without a manual. This isn't the case at all – as set out of the box, the default compact interface is virtually identical to the popular NiteCore D10/EX10. If you can press a button, you can easily use this interface. 

It's true the full user interface will require the use of the manual/flowchart to allow you set the features. But once set, the light is ridiculously simple to operate. Again, if you can turn on and switch modes in a Novatac or Ra light, you can use a programmed LF2XT/LF3XT. And the LiteFlux lights have a lot more features that you can program and customize than just about any other light. Set the Full UI the way you want with the manual, and then it's child's play to use without one.

Personally, I found the earlier twisty-model LiteFluxes to be a little finicky to operate and confusing to program. But the LF2XT/LF3XT series have two of the best user interfaces built-in, with a load of innovative features that are well worth price of admission (e.g. fully regulated Li-ion support, user-selectable low-voltage protection features for both Li-ion and NiMH, etc.). 

Oh, and have I mentioned the outstanding runtime performance, on all batteries – including alkalines? 

The beam is also very attractive with its neutral-warm 4C emitter (although relatively warm WH tints in cool white R2 should also be available by now). Despite the small reflector, the LF2XT's beam is very nice with minimal evidence of rings and a smooth transition from spot to spill. Overall spillbeam width is also a reasonable size.

Build quality is also high in my books. Light feels solid enough to finally replace the 1xAAA Jet-µ on my keychain. I'm going to EDC it for awhile and let you know how it goes. But based on my extensive EDCing of the LF3XT, I don't expect any major issues. 

P.S.: While I generally don't like discussing value-for-money in my reviews (since I think that is a very personal thing), I have to say that these seem like a great deal for <$65 shipped.


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## nanotech17 (Jul 5, 2009)

thanks for the review.
another priceless hard work from you.
i'm gonna have to digest these review later


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## strinq (Jul 5, 2009)

Been waitign for more reviews of this light for quite some time.
But I think a lot of people would want a comparison to the Fenix LD01 which is I think currently the most popular 1 x AAA light besides the LF2XT and LF2X.


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## qtaco (Jul 6, 2009)

Thanks for the review mate, this will be invaluable to anyone considering buying this light. I'm really impressed by the runtimes on 10440's at max, I thought it would be more like ten minutes!

Really enjoying my LF2XT: it's like a perfectly balanced scalpel, and makes my other lights look like crudely sharpened sticks. :thumbsup:


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## HighLumens (Jul 6, 2009)

Thanks so much for the review!

Could you tell me how your ODP works? when it starts flashing and how long it does? I found my ODP working a little strange, as soon as I discharge my battery I'll check again what it does and tell you.


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## DM51 (Jul 6, 2009)

An outstanding review of a light that has attracted enthusiastic notices everywhere. Its performance seems extraordinary, and it is packed with features (which can easily be bypassed if desired). The low-voltage cut-off is an especially useful innovation. 

Moving to the Reviews section.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 6, 2009)

strinq said:


> But I think a lot of people would want a comparison to the Fenix LD01 which is I think currently the most popular 1 x AAA light besides the LF2XT and LF2X.


I can believe that ... but I don't own one, and Fenix has never expressed any interest in sending me anything to review. :shrug: Given all the requests from other makers I've been getting lately, I only really have time to do invited reviews now-a-days.



qtaco said:


> Thanks for the review mate, this will be invaluable to anyone considering buying this light. I'm really impressed by the runtimes on 10440's at max, I thought it would be more like ten minutes!


Yes, I was quite surprised by how well these lights did on my old 10440s. A very impressive result.



HighLumens said:


> Could you tell me how your ODP works? when it starts flashing and how long it does? I found my ODP working a little strange, as soon as I discharge my battery I'll check again what it does and tell you.


Thanks, I forgot to mention that  (just updated the review text).

On my Natural LF2XT (i.e. "LF2XT" or "LF2XT #1" in the runtimes), the light started flashing intermittently within a couple of minutes before cutting out. These flashes are fairly slow initially, but increase in frequency just before shut down. However, since they only start in the last couple of mins, they weren't picked up in any of the runtime traces (where output is sampled at 30 sec intervals). My Black LF2XT seems to start showing the flashing a minute or two earlier, so you may begin to see some dips on the runtime curves near the end of those runs as I do more runtimes.



DM51 said:


> An outstanding review of a light that has attracted enthusiastic notices everywhere. Its performance seems extraordinary, and it is packed with features (which can easily be bypassed if desired). The low-voltage cut-off is an especially useful innovation.


Yup, I think this light is a real winner. :thumbsup: LiteFlux continues to impress with its innovative circuits (and build quality seems quite high too)


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## Flying Turtle (Jul 6, 2009)

Excellent review, as always, of my newest favorite light. Thanks, selfbuilt.

Geoff


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## strinq (Jul 6, 2009)

Mine will be here in 2 days. Can't wait man.


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 6, 2009)

Great review,don't know if I missed it but! another great feature of this light is the 3min+ auto off,forgive me if you mentioned it somewhere


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## BabyDoc (Jul 6, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Great review,don't know if I missed it but! another great feature of this light is the 3min+ auto off,forgive me if you mentioned it somewhere


 
This feature, however, will, if activated, deactivate the ODP, which is not a problem as long as you are aware of it. Unfortunately, LiteFlux, because of limitations of programming space, could not resolve this problem without eliminating the optional Auto/off entirely. My only complaint is the user manual doesn't warn anyone of this operational problem. Paradoxically, Auto/OFF when enabled saves your battery from being accidentally depleted, but when turned on, overides or disables the ODP which should be protecting a rechargable from damage should it get depleted.

Therefore it is recommended using Auto/OFF only with primaries. Keep Auto/OFF turned off and ODP turned on when using rechargables, and you will have no problem.


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## matrixshaman (Jul 6, 2009)

Great review selfbuilt. Except one thing - now I think I'm going to have to buy another one  
I am definitely going to go for one of the R2 cool white when they come out - didn't know they had decided to do a run of those. 
May I ask what AAA NiMH 900mah battery was used in this test? It seems to have done quite a bit better than the Eneloop and I need to pick up some good AAA NiMH batteries.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 6, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Great review,don't know if I missed it but! another great feature of this light is the 3min+ auto off,forgive me if you mentioned it somewhere


I am aware of it, but didn't think to mention in the rather lengthy review text.  Personally, I prefer to lock out my lights for EDC (quarter-turn head twist), so the auto-off feature isn't very useful for me.



BabyDoc said:


> This feature, however, will, if activated, disactivate the ODP, which is not a problem as long as you are aware of it. Unfortunately, LiteFlux, because of limitations of programming space, could not resolve this problem without eliminating the optional Auto/off entirely. ...
> Therefore it is recommended using Auto/OFF only with primaries. Keep Auto/OFF turned off and ODP turned on when using rechargables, and you will have no problem.


Ah, good to know - another reason why I won't be using it. I'll add a point to the review text. 



matrixshaman said:


> May I ask what AAA NiMH 900mah battery was used in this test? It seems to have done quite a bit better than the Eneloop and I need to pick up some good AAA NiMH batteries.


Eneloop AAAs are only rated to ~800 mAh (750 mAh guaranteed). According to my Maha charger, most of mine have been in the low 800s brand new.

The 900mAh NiMH in question were provided by Lumapower for the Avenger GX review (green wrapping, no label - printed "HI-WATT NiMH"). My Maha charger rates them at closer ~950mAh, which is very consistent with my older Energizer 1000mAh rated cells that I used in some of the older L0D/Jet-µ runs.


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## Crenshaw (Jul 6, 2009)

The LF2X is slightly brighter on 10440s, however i believe Lightflux has done something smart, they probably toned down the drive level on max so that you get reasonable runtime, instead of the few minuites or so on max with the Lf2x before it starts warning you of low voltage.

I read somewhere also that the Lf2x is slightly dimmer then the Ld01 on max.

Crenshaw


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 6, 2009)

BabyDoc said:


> This feature, however, will, if activated, disactivate the ODP, which is not a problem as long as you are aware of it. Unfortunately, LiteFlux, because of limitations of programming space, could not resolve this problem without eliminating the optional Auto/off entirely. My only complaint is the user manual doesn't warn anyone of this operational problem. re, Paradoxically, Auto/OFF when enabled saves your battery from being accidentally depleted, but when turned on, overides or disables the ODP which should be protecting a rechargable from damage should it get depleted.
> 
> Therefore it is recommended using Auto/OFF only with primaries. Keep Auto/OFF turned off and ODP turned on when using rechargables, and you will have no problem.


Advice duly taken :twothumbs


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## HighLumens (Jul 6, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> Thanks, I forgot to mention that  (just updated the review text).


:thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Jul 6, 2009)

Crenshaw said:


> The LF2X is slightly brighter on 10440s, however i believe Lightflux has done something smart, they probably toned down the drive level on max so that you get reasonable runtime, instead of the few minuites or so on max with the Lf2x before it starts warning you of low voltage.
> 
> I read somewhere also that the Lf2x is slightly dimmer then the Ld01 on max.


I agree - on both points. 

As the Fenix lights run direct drive on 10440 on Hi, any LD01 will definitely be brighter on 10440 (given that my lowly P4-based L0D was actually brighter than the LF2XTs on 10440). I would expect a LD01-Q5 should be at least 30% brighter than my L0D-P4. But I would also expect runtimes in ~10-15 min range on a LD01 (and rapidly diminishing at that), versus the 30-45 mins regulated seen for all my LF2XT runs.

I'm still rather amazed by all the folks who run their L0D/LD01 on 10440. If you happen have one with a low Vf, you are really going to be subjecting everything to a pretty high current drain. Not good for emitters, circuits, or batteries ... 

And so, yes, I agree that this is pretty smart on LiteFlux's part.


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## HighLumens (Jul 6, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> as soon as I discharge my battery I'll check again what it does and tell you.


Ok, I've run mine for a while and I paid attention to the ODP. It does 18 flashes (a couple of times I counted 17, and I'm quite sure I didn't loose the 18th flash) and then it turned off. Every time I turned it on again and checked the battery voltage, so I knew it started flashing at aound 1.1 volt and continued up to 0.76 (here I stopped). Is this the correct behavior of the ODP?


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## Moonshadow (Jul 6, 2009)

> The main complaint with the D10/EX10 interface is that your custom-set level is erased when you use the shortcuts (i.e. jump to Min, and Min is now your new custom-set level).


 This is more a question of user preference than anything else. The D10 _always_ comes back on at the same level you had when you switched it off. From the way you describe it, the LiteFlux violates this basic principle: it's on max, you switch off, then back on again a moment later and it's on a different setting. Fair enough for those who like that sort of thing - but I'll stick with the D10 thanks.



> The second complaint is that you have try twice to activate the ramp after using a shortcut, since it remembers the previous ramp direction.


Again, to be fair - this _was_ a problem on earlier batches but has long since been fixed. If you buy a D10 or EX10 now, it will ramp as expected.


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## handy (Jul 6, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> Ok, I've run mine for a while and I paid attention to the ODP. It does 18 flashes (a couple of times I counted 17, and I'm quite sure I didn't loose the 18th flash) and then it turned off. Every time I turned it on again and checked the battery voltage, so I knew it started flashing at aound 1.1 volt and continued up to 0.76 (here I stopped). Is this the correct behavior of the ODP?




I had the same question as my LF2XT also does that. When on 100% (running on 900mAh NiMH) it flashes 18 times before cutting off, though it seems that there is an ever so slight pause after the first three flashes - low voltage warning first? Haven't checked to see if it does the same on a lower light mode.


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## handy (Jul 6, 2009)

Selfbuilt, I love your reviews they're comprehensive, objective, enjoyable! Great job!


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## Lite_me (Jul 6, 2009)

Moonshadow said:


> This is more a question of user preference than anything else. The D10 _always_ comes back on at the same level you had when you switched it off. From the way you describe it, the LiteFlux violates this basic principle: it's on max, you switch off, then back on again a moment later and it's on a different setting. Fair enough for those who like that sort of thing - but I'll stick with the D10 thanks.


 Both the LF2XT & LF3XT will mimic a D10. Turn on a D10. Ramp it up to max. Turn it Off. Turn it back On. It comes back On at max. Do this with the LiteFlux's and it will do the same thing. Where ever you ramp to from turn On, and then turn Off, they come back On at that level, just like a D/EX10. 

It's just that the LiteFlux's have the ability to remember a user setting, if you so choose, by using the shortcuts to Hi or Lo for a quick change in output. Usually only needed temporarily. That way, your most used setting is retained for the next time you use your light. You have the best of two worlds, so to speak, and all that is needed is understanding how it works and how you want the light to act in that circumstance.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 6, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> Ok, I've run mine for a while and I paid attention to the ODP. It does 18 flashes (a couple of times I counted 17, and I'm quite sure I didn't loose the 18th flash) and then it turned off. Every time I turned it on again and checked the battery voltage, so I knew it started flashing at aound 1.1 volt and continued up to 0.76 (here I stopped). Is this the correct behavior of the ODP?


That sounds believable to me, although haven't sat down to measure it on my two samples. I suspect it is likely to be a bit variable from one light to another, since it is presumably triggered by a voltage level



Moonshadow said:


> This is more a question of user preference than anything else. The D10 _always_ comes back on at the same level you had when you switched it off. From the way you describe it, the LiteFlux violates this basic principle: it's on max, you switch off, then back on again a moment later and it's on a different setting. Fair enough for those who like that sort of thing - but I'll stick with the D10 thanks.
> Again, to be fair - this _was_ a problem on earlier batches but has long since been fixed. If you buy a D10 or EX10 now, it will ramp as expected.


I've revised the UI description text above. Most of this was taken from my LF3XT review, when the ramp issue was still present on the D10/EX10. Indeed, I was unaware this had been corrected - the last D10 I bought new in February still had the ramp direction retention issue. Glad to hear they fixed it.

I agree that the difference in how the memory feature works upon turn off/on is entirely a question of user preference. But the LF2XT/LF3XT does feature an improvement in that the shortcut keys are toggles to-and-from the user defined level to Max/Min. There was certainly a lot of complaining around here about the lack of retention of the custom user mode level once a shortcut was used in the D10/EX10.

But this is separate from how the lights retain the last setting, and there are significant differences there. I realize this may be confusing for those who don't have both lights, so let me give three situations that may help people choose what they prefer.

1. Turn on the light, ramp to your desired level, turn off the light. When you turn back on, you are at the level you left it when you shut off (i.e. user defined) - for both the D10/EX10 or the LF2XT/LF3XT

2. Now turn off/on the light again, jump to max output (click, press-hold), turn off the light. When you turn back on, you are at the original user defined level in step #1 (LF3XT/LF3XT) or at Max brightness (D10/EX10).

3. Now turn off/on the light again, jump to Min output (double click), ramp up to a higher level, turn off the light. When you turn back on, you are again at the original user defined level from #1 (LF3XT/LF3XT) or at the level you turned off the light (D10/EX10).

The key point here is that the LF2XT/LF3XT disregards any level set after using a shortcut jump. Unless of course you toggle back to the user defined level first, and ramp from there (that will then be retained). I find this takes some getting used to - personally, I would prefer that memory kicked in if I instigated a ramp after using a shortcut. :shrug:

But again, how the memory is implemented is separate from the fact that you won't erase your custom set level by using a shortcut on LiteFlux like you will on the NiteCore.


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## Moonshadow (Jul 7, 2009)

Thanks for the clarification, Selfbuilt.



> 3. Now turn off/on the light again, jump to Min output (double click), ramp up to a higher level, turn off the light. When you turn back on, you are again at the original user defined level from #1 (LF3XT/LF3XT)


That's the one that would drive me nuts, I think. With the D10, I'm quite used to jumping to max and then ramping down a little bit to set a high-ish level or jumping to min and ramping up if I want a fairly low level. Having the light forget that and go back to some previous level would be really annoying.

Just makes life more complicated - you have to remember _how _you got to a particular level. Still, we do all have different preferences and will use the lights in different situations, so it's good that the manufacturers give us such a wide range of choices.


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## juplin (Jul 7, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> Ok, I've run mine for a while and I paid attention to the ODP. It does 18 flashes (a couple of times I counted 17, and I'm quite sure I didn't loose the 18th flash) and then it turned off. Every time I turned it on again and checked the battery voltage, so I knew it started flashing at aound 1.1 volt and continued up to 0.76 (here I stopped). Is this the correct behavior of the ODP?


This 18 flashes should be 3 warning flashes at 1.0V low battery voltage (under load) immediately followed by 15 flashes at 0.8V overdischarge protection voltage under load.
The ODP algorithm of LF2XT can be described as:
1. If the battery voltage under load reaches low battery warning voltage of 1.0 V for NiMh or 3.1V for 10440 Li-ion, the warning signals of 3 flashes will be generated every 35 seconds.
2. If the battery voltage under load reaches overdischarge protection voltage of 0.8 V for NiMh or 2.8V for 10440 Li-ion, 15 flashes will be generated before forced turning-off.
3. There is no mandatory interval between 3 flashes of low voltage warning and 15 flashes of overdischarge protection.

If the internal resistance of the NiHN battery is too large, the discharge period from 1.0 V under load to 0.8V under load will be so short that 3 flashes of low voltage warning will be immediately followed by 15 flashes of overdischarge protection.

While new AAA eneloop with excellent health status is used for OPD testing, you will experience several separate 3 warning flashes in two or three minutes before final 15 flashes of overdischarge protection.

Similar situation with respect to internal resistance of battery will also apply to 10440 Li-ion.


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## HighLumens (Jul 7, 2009)

juplin said:


> This 18 flashes should be 3 warning flashes at 1.0V low battery voltage (under load) immediately followed by 15 flashes at 0.8V overdischarge protection voltage under load.
> The ODP algorithm of LF2XT can be described as:
> 1. If the battery voltage under load reaches low battery warning voltage of 1.0 V for NiMh or 3.1V for 10440 Li-ion, the warning signals of 3 flashes will be generated every 35 seconds.
> 2. If the battery voltage under load reaches overdischarge protection voltage of 0.8 V for NiMh or 2.8V for 10440 Li-ion, 15 flashes will be generated before forced turning-off.
> ...



I' am using brand new original Eneloop (they have been charged and discharged once in a proper way). Perhaps it's that I ran it quite heavy (50 and 100% continously) so the 18 flashes were actually 3+15flashes...

I'll repeat the discharge, this time at 10% and I hope I'll se the 3 flashes every 35 seconds while the LF stays on. I just have to wait 8 hours


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## Flying Turtle (Jul 8, 2009)

Funny. I just noticed the flashing on mine. Could have sworn the ODP was turned off. I must have accidentally toggled it on at some time. Thought my light was having a seizure.

Geoff


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## selfbuilt (Jul 8, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> I' am using brand new original Eneloop (they have been charged and discharged once in a proper way). Perhaps it's that I ran it quite heavy (50 and 100% continously) so the 18 flashes were actually 3+15flashes...


I just tried the ODP on a nearly depleted regular alkaline and L92 lithium cell running on Max, and both times there was no discernable gap between the 3 and 15 flashes before shut-down (i.e. looked like 18 continuous).

But when I let the alkaline cell recover for a few secs and turned it back on Min, there was about ~30 secs between the initial 3 flashes and the later 15. 

So it is likely dependent on battery chemistries and how hard you are driving the light at the time.


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## AFAustin (Jul 8, 2009)

I think we all appreciate the incredible amount of extremely high quality work that selfbuilt contributes to CPF. Recently, with this LF2XT review and others (Quarks, Avenger GX, etc.), he has been working at such a pace that I don't know how he sleeps! :tired:

He not only posts his terrific reviews, but then sticks around and addresses all the many follow-up comments and questions---incredible! 

So, I just made a donation to selfbult's battery fund, which can be found in his sigline, or here: http://www.sliderule.ca/cpf.htm
I hope my CPF brothers will join me in chipping in---selfbuilt is a precious resource around here, and the least we can do is keep him loaded with cells! 

Thanks.


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## HighLumens (Jul 8, 2009)

HighLumens said:


> I'll repeat the discharge, this time at 10% and I hope I'll se the 3 flashes every 35 seconds while the LF stays on. I just have to wait 8 hours





selfbuilt said:


> But when I let the alkaline cell recover for a few secs and turned it back on Min, there was about ~30 secs between the initial 3 flashes and the later 15.


I did the same: I didn't want to run down a fully charged Eneloop and wait so much, so I used an already almost discharged cell (old ni-mh 600 mAh). 

Running the LF at 10% it still did 18 flashes.
Running it at Min I got _something similar_ to the 3 advertised flashes every 35 seconds and finally 15 (or 18? sorry I don't recall it ). I say _something similar_ because I actually got this: Costant On->Off->*On*->Off->*On*->Off->Costant On. I would call them 2 flashes, not 3!

Anyway, as soon as I disharge the Eneloop I'll set it to 10% looking for 3 flashes every 35 seconds and if I don't get them I' ll set it to Min. I'll try to record everything but I can't assure it.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 8, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> So, I just made a donation to selfbult's battery fund, which can be found in his sigline, or here: http://www.sliderule.ca/cpf.htm
> I hope my CPF brothers will join me in chipping in---selfbuilt is a precious resource around here, and the least we can do is keep him loaded with cells!


Thanks Andrew - appreciate the support!

FYI, I thought I'd share a pic of my spent battery bucket (old kitty litter container in my garage ). Not the best way to store things, admitedly - this is about a six month supply, as I haven't made it to the recycling centre in awhile. 







Normally you'd only see Duracell alkalines, Energizer L91/L92 lithiums, and Duracell and Surefire CR123As in there, but I've been experimenting with other brands of CR123A for my battery round-up comparisons:

CR123A Comparison Review: 4Sevens, Titanium Innovations, Tenergy, Surefire, Duracell 
Quick CR123A and AA Battery Shoot-out Comparison 

Some surprisingly good performers out there ...


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## TITAN1833 (Jul 9, 2009)

Just checked the ODP using 10440 it did the 18 flashes then off,I checked the battery voltage it read 3.7v should this be lower? :shrug:


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## juplin (Jul 9, 2009)

TITAN1833 said:


> Just checked the ODP using 10440 it did the 18 flashes then off,I checked the battery voltage it read 3.7v should this be lower? :shrug:


3.7V resting voltage after forced shut-down implies high internal resistance of this 10440.
My testing showed resting voltage 15 minutes after forced shut-down would be 3.2V ~ 3.6V, most likely 3.3V ~ 3.5V, for new DLG 10440.


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## AFAustin (Jul 9, 2009)

selfbuilt, that is quite a bucket of dead cells! If I walked into my local Radio Shack, where I from time to time recycle a few odd cells, with a bucketload like that, they would probably alert the FBI!


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## Crenshaw (Jul 11, 2009)

wow, thats a lot of batteries!

I assume they have all been drained of as much energy as possible by various lights?

Crenshaw


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## selfbuilt (Jul 11, 2009)

AFAustin said:


> selfbuilt, that is quite a bucket of dead cells! If I walked into my local Radio Shack, where I from time to time recycle a few odd cells, with a bucketload like that, they would probably alert the FBI!





Crenshaw said:


> wow, thats a lot of batteries!
> I assume they have all been drained of as much energy as possible by various lights?


No visits from the RCMP yet (our FBI equivalent ). The battery recycling depot is part of the hazardous material drop-off site at our local dump, so they don't bat an eyelash at me. As you might imagine, they are pretty inured in that position (i.e. you should see what everyone else drops off!).  

But that's also why so many dead cells have built up, since I don't have cause to visit the dump very often. Canadian Radio Shacks (now The Source by Circuit City) don't accept much in the way of used batteries. But my local gym has started a battery drop-off booth, so I may start taking in small batches there from now on. 

And yes, they were all drained to depletion in my runtime testing.


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## strinq (Jul 11, 2009)

Ok, relocating my question here from the LED thread:

"Hmmm, there's something funny about my lite, not sure if its a regular feature.

I tried 3 sets of regular NiMH 600mA and 1 eneloop.
I have the ODP on.

On turbo, the 3 warning flashes came very fast, as fast as 1 minute after turning it on.
Then it came intermittently for about 10 minutes before the 15 flash and then went off.
Is this normal?"


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## juplin (Jul 11, 2009)

Although it is somewhat off-topic to discuss eneloop and battery-related items in this thread, I heard some batteries printed "eneloop" are not all real eneloops.

Someones doubted what they bought were not real eneloops.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/167779
There are some photos showing differences between real and fake eneloop in the following thread.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/226751

The following link is the specification of eneloop AAA.
http://www.eneloop.info/fileadmin/EDITORS/ENELOOP/DATA_SHEETS/Datasheet_-_HR-4UTG.pdf

Form the specification we can see that the internal resistance (after discharge to 1.0V) is 0.040 Ohms (however, I must admit it is hard for the general public to measure the internal resistance of the battery), and that the discharge plateau will be 1.20V or higher for most of the discharge period under discharge current of 800mA for the "REAL" eneloop AAA.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 11, 2009)

strinq said:


> I tried 3 sets of regular NiMH 600mA and 1 eneloop.
> I have the ODP on.
> 
> On turbo, the 3 warning flashes came very fast, as fast as 1 minute after turning it on.
> ...


No, that doesn't sound normal. Unless the cells are almost discharged or in very poor condition, you shouldn't see the ODP warning flashes for quite some time. And then only when the cells are nearly depleted.

How long does your light run with the ODP turned off on a fully charged NiMH or eneloop on Max? Just wondering if its the ODP voltage sensor or the state of your batteries that is the source of the problem. If the runtime with ODP off is comparable to my runtimes, then I would think you have a defective circuit. But it seems more likely to me that the batteries are misbehaving - try doing a full runtime and see.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 17, 2009)

FYI, finally got around to testing the auto-shut-off feature (8 clicks + PH). It does indeed last for exactly 3 mins, according to stopwatch timer. Pretty good little timer in there ...

I've decided to run the LF2XT on my keychain as EDC with auto-shut-off engaged and the head locked-out (on a L92 battery). This way, I don't need the over-discharge protection feature, since I'm not running a NiMH or Li-ion.


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## djshiner (Jul 17, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> FYI, finally got around to testing the auto-shut-off feature (8 clicks + PH). It does indeed last for exactly 3 mins, according to stopwatch timer. Pretty good little timer in there ...
> 
> I've decided to run the LF2XT on my keychain as EDC with auto-shut-off engaged and the head locked-out (on a L92 battery). This way, I don't need the over-discharge protection feature, since I'm not running a NiMH or Li-ion.


 
Do both your samples shut down at exactly 3 minutes? I have a Q4 that shuts off at 3min & 12seconds and a R2 that shuts off at 3mins & 8seconds. This is not a big concern just a point of interest.
I also EDC with atuo-shut-off on along with a L92.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 18, 2009)

djshiner said:


> Do both your samples shut down at exactly 3 minutes? I have a Q4 that shuts off at 3min & 12seconds and a R2 that shuts off at 3mins & 8seconds. This is not a big concern just a point of interest.
> I also EDC with atuo-shut-off on along with a L92.


Just tested the black one ... 3min 9secs to shut-off ...


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## HighLumens (Jul 20, 2009)

At lowest output ("0%") I get the promised 3 flashes every 35 seconds and then 15 flashes and then the light turns off.

p.s.: selfbuilt pm sent.


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## clintb (Aug 7, 2009)

selfbuilt said:


> The 900mAh NiMH in question were provided by Lumapower for the Avenger GX review (green wrapping, no label - printed "HI-WATT NiMH"). My Maha charger rates them at closer ~950mAh, which is very consistent with my older Energizer 1000mAh rated cells that I used in some of the older L0D/Jet-µ runs.


Sanyo had some 900mAh AAA's, which were actually branded under GE / Sanyo. I bought a four pack at Fry's Electronics around four years ago and still have them. They're holding up like champs!


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## The Mad Scotsman (Nov 3, 2009)

What an excellent review. I sent a little thank you to your fund. Oh, and of course, I bought the LF2XT in natural as well. 

3 Flashlights in two weeks and counting.

LD10: for the Van
PD30: when out at night in the dark and at work.
LF2XT and my Benchmade 943 knife EVERYWHERE. (When it gets here.)


Quick question though. I understand that when you are switching between output levels you have to slow down because of the delay in the processor but does that count for programming too? Do I have to wait a half second between presses when programming?


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## selfbuilt (Nov 4, 2009)

The Mad Scotsman said:


> Quick question though. I understand that when you are switching between output levels you have to slow down because of the delay in the processor but does that count for programming too? Do I have to wait a half second between presses when programming?


Thanks for the donation. There's no need to wait any additional time when programming - just proceed with the necessary clicks and press/holds. The ~0.3sec delay in ramping is just due to to the light waiting to see if a command sequence is coming. I can't say I noticed anything unusual in the programming menus - everything behaved as expected.


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## Beampower (Dec 20, 2009)

Hi, I am new to the Forum,Can someone tell me how i purchase this Brilliant little light please?(Liteflux LF2XT).Thankyou, Howard :twothumbs


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## Flying Turtle (Dec 20, 2009)

Hey Beampower. Welcome to CPF. Great light to choose. I got mine from www.eliteLED.com. Good folks to deal with and fast shipping.

Geoff


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## mightysparrow (Dec 20, 2009)

Beampower said:


> Hi, I am new to the Forum,Can someone tell me how i purchase this Brilliant little light please?(Liteflux LF2XT).Thankyou, Howard :twothumbs


 
Beampower: you can also go to the Marketplace and go to the Dealer's Corner. There, you will find threads in which you can buy the LF2XT. Two different dealers who have threads there have been recently offering special editions with upgraded LEDs. I just ordered from both - it was time for me to become a LF2XT owner myself!


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## Salbach (Feb 16, 2010)

selfbuilt said:


> I'm still rather amazed by all the folks who run their L0D/LD01 on 10440. If you happen have one with a low Vf, you are really going to be subjecting everything to a pretty high current drain. Not good for emitters, circuits, or batteries ...


 
I'm running my LD01 on a protected 10440 (Trustfire). Would you regard this as dangerous for emitters and circuits, too? :shrug:


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## Salbach (Feb 17, 2010)

Incredible review - thanks! lovecpf

I'm not having my charger yet, but already two protected 10440 from Trustfire. 

Since I couldn't wait trying them in my LF2XT and feeling safe because of both ODP of the light and the protection circuit of the battery, I put it in the light only to be confused: 
The LF2XT does not stay on with the 104400 inside. It acts like the momentarily switch (tactical) would have been enabled, but it isn't!​The LF2XT runs as it should on Eneloop or alkaline, but immediately turns of after releasing the button on the 10440.

Taking the same 10440 out and putting it into my Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel turns the LD01 into a little sun, like already written everywhere. So it's supposedly not any kind of overdischarge protection, right?

I also thought something might be misconfigured on my LF2XT and I did 10C + PH from FUI to reset the light to factory settings, but no change.

Also the output (just personal impression) by holding the button down seems to be at best around the Eneloop level. I understand, it should about double. :mecry:

Any ideas?


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## selfbuilt (Feb 17, 2010)

Salbach said:


> The LF2XT does not stay on with the 104400 inside. It acts like the momentarily switch (tactical) would have been enabled, but it isn't!​


Sounds like a contact problem (may be due to the relative length of the cell, or migration of lube onto contact surfaces).

I've had similar problems on occasion with both my LF2XT and LF3XT when replacing the Li-ion cell (i.e. acts a momentary when you press the button). Try thorough cleaning of the components and careful re-assembly. I am not sure of the source of this problem, but I find it does eventually resolve with enough cleaning and re-assembly. :shrug:


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 17, 2010)

selfbuilt said:


> Sounds like a contact problem (may be due to the relative length of the cell, or migration of lube onto contact surfaces).



I think you've nailed it about the length of the cell. Adjusting the depth of the pill in the head ought to fix things. Not hard to do with some sharp pointed tweezers. 

Geoff


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## gswitter (Feb 17, 2010)

The protected 10440 may be too long for the LF2XT. I get the same behavior you describe with _any_ battery type if I don't screw the body (or tail cap) on tight enough. The longer cell may not allow the body to be tightened enough.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 17, 2010)

Flying Turtle said:


> I think you've nailed it about the length of the cell. Adjusting the depth of the pill in the head ought to fix things. Not hard to do with some sharp pointed tweezers.





gswitter said:


> The protected 10440 may be too long for the LF2XT. I get the same behavior you describe with _any_ battery type if I don't screw the body (or tail cap) on tight enough. The longer cell may not allow the body to be tightened enough.


Yup, I've suspected that relative battery length is the issue (or conversely, loosening of the pill). Since I tend to tighten everything when I clean a light, I've never been sure about what exactly has resolved the problem when it has cropped up.

Incidentally, this is why I always recommend a thorough cleaning - it's amazing what a little non-conducting lube on contact surfaces can do to lights with sophisticated control circuits. But I agree, in this case, I think it's more likely to be a contact issue due to length. Adjusting the pill in the head is the most likely fix.


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## Jay R (Feb 17, 2010)

Sorry. Nothing to do with the battery length I think. The circuit inside the light seems to be not 'compatable' with the circuit in the cell. It happens on all Trustfire protected cells. Got the same in mine and others I heard of.


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## Salbach (Feb 18, 2010)

selfbuilt said:


> Yup, I've suspected that relative battery length is the issue (or conversely, loosening of the pill). Since I tend to tighten everything when I clean a light, I've never been sure about what exactly has resolved the problem when it has cropped up.
> 
> Incidentally, this is why I always recommend a thorough cleaning - it's amazing what a little non-conducting lube on contact surfaces can do to lights with sophisticated control circuits. But I agree, in this case, I think it's more likely to be a contact issue due to length. Adjusting the pill in the head is the most likely fix.


 
After Selfbuilt's initial recomendation to check, clean and resemble everything I did that, except for removing the pill (is this how you call the light engine as slang? Sorry, I'm German native...;-) Anyway, so far I didn't change the pill adjustment; first have to buy the right tweezers.

But during the forementioned examination of the LF2XT I found that the inner tube for the battery has a length that, in order to work properly, must be shorter than the battery inside by a certain degree. If this isn't the case, then the plus end (+) of the battery touches the center contact of the pill, but the wall of the tube cannot touch the outer brass ring, which is minus (-).

If this theoretical excercise is true, an adjustment of the pill would probably not solve the problem, right? The inner tube would have to be lengthend or (!!) the contact brass ring of the pill would have to be raised. :thinking: 

Comments?


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 18, 2010)

Hey Salbach. Sorry about your troubles. Thought I might point out a few things that could help. First of all, have you ever unscrewed the switch? A few times (it just happened again) I had my light turn "on" by itself after screwing the head back on. It would not turn "off" until I unscrewed and retightened the switch. Something funky in the electronics I guess.

In regards to the contacts in the head, there are actually three contact points. There is the positive battery point, of course, the main battery tube, and the inner sleeve. This is why the "pill" must be at the correct depth.

Don't know if any of this is news to you, but I feel bad that your light is not working right. It's such a fine light when everything functions.

Good luck.

Geoff


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## HoopleHead (Feb 20, 2010)

Great review as always, thanks!

To clarify, using the CUI

I can set the "user mode" to max, so that itll always come on on max (or whatever I set it at), correct? Then 1C+PH will effective be the same as 1C. But for "min" even if you change it, the next time you use it it'll always go back to min.

It's between this and the Preon for me, but I want it to come on on "high" for the first click/mode. 

Thanks!


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## Flying Turtle (Feb 20, 2010)

If you are in the CUI wherever you ramp to before turnoff is where the light will return on restart. If you do a 1C+PH to get to high, then turn it off, the light will return to whatever the last "user mode" setting was. If it is most important for you to have high first then you should have it programmed for this in the FUI. That way you don't have to always remember to leave it on high in the "user mode" of the CUI.

Hope this helps.

Geoff


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## dr-ebert (Mar 25, 2010)

Just out of curiosity - does someone have a side-by-side-shot of the LF2XT and LF3XT?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 25, 2010)

dr-ebert said:


> Just out of curiosity - does someone have a side-by-side-shot of the LF2XT and LF3XT?


Don't have one handy, but I can tell you height is exactly the same. Width is of course hugely different (specs are in each of my reviews). 

HKJ often takes a lot of high quality pics of his lights - you might want to search around for his posts, to see if he has done a comparison shot.


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## FroggyTaco (Mar 25, 2010)

dr-ebert said:


> Just out of curiosity - does someone have a side-by-side-shot of the LF2XT and LF3XT?



I found this:


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## HKJ (Mar 25, 2010)

selfbuilt said:


> Don't have one handy, but I can tell you height is exactly the same. Width is of course hugely different (specs are in each of my reviews).
> 
> HKJ often takes a lot of high quality pics of his lights - you might want to search around for his posts, to see if he has done a comparison shot.



I do not believe that I have done that photo, but it is a fine excuse to take a photo of all my LiteFlux lights:


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## FroggyTaco (Mar 25, 2010)

Are the LF3XT & LF2XT buttons the same diameter?


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## HKJ (Mar 25, 2010)

FroggyTaco said:


> Are the LF3XT & LF2XT buttons the same diameter?



No. 
The LF3XT button is roughly 10 mm in diameter and LF2XT is roughly 8 mm in diameter.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 25, 2010)

Thanks HKJ. :twothumbs


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## FroggyTaco (Mar 25, 2010)

^
What he said!


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## pae77 (Jun 11, 2010)

Those are really nice photos!




HKJ said:


> I do not believe that I have done that photo, but it is a fine excuse to take a photo of all my LiteFlux lights:


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## alex96 (Oct 6, 2011)

Sorry to ask but where I can I find the website that have the LF2XT manual? Thanks.


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## stoli67 (Oct 7, 2011)

Shoot me a PM with your email address and I will send you the manual as attachment


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## Norm (Oct 7, 2011)

alex96 said:


> Sorry to ask but where I can I find the website that have the LF2XT manual? Thanks.



Cheat Sheet http://download.thebestideaever.net/LF2XT-card.pdf

Norm


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## piang829 (Sep 15, 2012)

does anyone know where to get one of these LF2XT's? i cant seem to find one anywhere...


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## HKJ (Sep 15, 2012)

piang829 said:


> does anyone know where to get one of these LF2XT's? i cant seem to find one anywhere...



LiteFlux stopped making lights some time ago, you will have to look for a used light.


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## climberkid (Sep 15, 2012)

They've been popping up quite often in both the Custom BST on here and also over at CPFMP.


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## archimedes (Sep 15, 2012)

climberkid said:


> They've been popping up quite often in both the Custom BST on here and also over at CPFMP.



Although at a bit of a markup over original retail price ... :devil:


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## selfbuilt (Apr 13, 2015)

I know this is a very old thread now, but I just got a question from my sales thread asking how this light compares in terms of lumen output and beam intensity to newer lights. I have just tested the black LF2XT from this review using my current methodology, and added the results to a summary table (appended below, and added to the review). 






While not up to the same max output standards as current models, it still holds its own quite well (especially on 10440). It also has among the lowest min output I've seen in the 1xAAA class. :wave:


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## Mr Floppy (Apr 20, 2015)

Did you get the LED swapped? Or misprint? I know a few people who have modded theirs to a XP-G, would be interesting to see those tested if they could part with it.


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## moshow9 (Apr 20, 2015)

Mr Floppy said:


> Did you get the LED swapped? Or misprint? I know a few people who have modded theirs to a XP-G, would be interesting to see those tested if they could part with it.



More than likey a typo. XP-E Q4 sounds about right for the neutral version of this one. Output would be a bit higher with an XP-G.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 22, 2015)

Mr Floppy said:


> Did you get the LED swapped? Or misprint? I know a few people who have modded theirs to a XP-G, would be interesting to see those tested if they could part with it.





moshow9 said:


> More than likey a typo. XP-E Q4 sounds about right for the neutral version of this one. Output would be a bit higher with an XP-G.


Oops, sorry, that was indeed a misprint - I meant to say XP-E Q4. Mine is the stock version.

I am away at the moment, but will correct the graph later this week.


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