# decent sharpener



## Metatron (Jun 28, 2008)

hi lads, am looking for a sharpener, prob is that most of my knives have uneven surfaces so my lansky deluxe doesnt hold them evenly. what r u guys using as i assume u have the same issue?
cheers


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## jzmtl (Jun 29, 2008)

I use spyderco sharpmaker, everybody should have a set.


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## CLHC (Jun 29, 2008)

The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very good one.

Now depending on how much you want to spend, here's what I think (in my opinion) is the creme-de-la-creme of knife sharpeners:

http://edgeproinc.com/

Check it out!

Hope you find what you're looking for and Enjoy!


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## Gunnerboy (Jun 29, 2008)

Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker


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## Metatron (Jun 29, 2008)

CLHC said:


> The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very good one.
> 
> Now depending on how much you want to spend, here's what I think (in my opinion) is the creme-de-la-creme of knife sharpeners:
> 
> ...


looks like a fine piece of equipment, ty for that, i will look into it


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## Oddjob (Jun 29, 2008)

CLHC said:


> The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very good one.
> 
> Now depending on how much you want to spend, here's what I think (in my opinion) is the creme-de-la-creme of knife sharpeners:
> 
> ...



+1. The sharpmaker is great for maintaining and the edgepro is great for reprofiling and keeping a precise angle.


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## NA8 (Jun 30, 2008)

Gunnerboy said:


> Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker



I've got one of those Spyderco Triangles. It's old and only has the 40 degree (I think) setting. The newer Sharpmaker has both 30 and 40 degree settings for the ceramic rods.


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## Metatron (Jul 1, 2008)

CLHC said:


> The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very good one.
> 
> Now depending on how much you want to spend, here's what I think (in my opinion) is the creme-de-la-creme of knife sharpeners:
> 
> ...


ok, have found the only dealer this side of the world, who happens to reside 5 clicks from me, so im gonna have to bust my kids piggy bank wide open for this


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## CLHC (Jul 1, 2008)

Metatron said:


> ok, have *found the only dealer this side of the world, who happens to reside 5 clicks from *me, so* im gonna have to bust my kids piggy bank wide open for this*


Now cool is that? Which one are you going for?

At one of the local gatherings I've been to in my neck of the woods, three (3) knife makers said they love using the EdgePro. Though I don't know if they use if for the knives they sell. I only remembered the name of one of the knife maker--BEGG.  Was I suppose to say that? 

:wave:


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## foxracer72 (Jul 1, 2008)

edge pro i feel is the best sharpener out there:twothumbs


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## 84Maroon (Jul 1, 2008)

I had an EdgePro, but I sold it and bought a Sharpmaker.


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## Josey (Jul 1, 2008)

You done good, 84. The EdgePro is cool, but it takes space and time to set up and is messy. And it doesn't work well on all types of knives (sabre grinds with distal tapering).

The Sharpmaker is much easier. Just make sure that the angle you choose (30 or 40 degrees) matches your knife's edge angle. If it doesn't, you'll have to reprofile your knife's edge. 

A lot of people think you can't use a Sharpmaker to reprofile, but you can and it's easy. You can buy a diamond rod for one of the slots. Or, you can hold a flat diamond sharpener against the ceramic rods and you'll have the correct sharpening/profiling angle for a vertical stroke. Or, you can wrap the ceramic rods with wet/dry sandpaper of the appropriate grit for reprofiling.


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## Metatron (Jul 1, 2008)

CLHC said:


> Now cool is that? Which one are you going for?
> 
> At one of the local gatherings I've been to in my neck of the woods, three (3) knife makers said they love using the EdgePro. Though I don't know if they use if for the knives they sell. I only remembered the name of one of the knife maker--BEGG.  Was I suppose to say that?
> 
> :wave:



apex no 3, pick it up 2night


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## american lockpicker (Jul 1, 2008)

I use an Accusharp Knife sharpener and I highly recommend it. They are made in the USA and costs around $10. Here is a link to the website http://www.accusharp.com/


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## shuter (Jul 2, 2008)

The key to producing a sharp durable edge on your knife lies in the ability to maintain a specific angle while sharpening. Any of the rod guided sharpeners will produce superior edges. Lansky is about forty dollars and I have been using one for twenty five years. I am a fanitic about sharp edges on my knives. There can be an issue maintaining solid grip on the blade if there is a great deal of taper on the spine. When dealing with this issue, tighten the blade as tight as possible in the jig and use light pressure on the stone. Your blade is really sharp if you lay the edge on your finger nail at abour forty five degrees, try and slide it off the nail. When really sharp the edge will stick rather than slide.


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## Metatron (Jul 2, 2008)

well folks, picked up my edge pro apex, it really is a grand piece of equipment, i will give it a go tomorrow as my g/f requires a hone and polish first


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## chmsam (Jul 2, 2008)

Edge Pro systems do look neat even though there are a lot of parts to the full system. 

Here's a trick for those who use Lansky systems and have knives that are a little varies in edge thickness. To hold the blade firmly use thin pieces of cardboard between the blade and the jaws of the clamp. Saves marring the blade and can improve the grip of the clamp. Just be sure the blade is firmly in the clamp since wobble is a bad thing.

One other note -- I would be careful of using leather instead of cardboard for this since the dyes used on some leather are acidic and could get you on the way to starting pits or rust on the knife.


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## cernobila (Jul 2, 2008)

84Maroon said:


> I had an EdgePro, but I sold it and bought a Sharpmaker.



Well, I had a Sharpmaker, put it in my draw and bought an Edge-Pro Apex......In the next few minutes I will be sharpening my new Emerson CQC 14 Snubby using the Apex. I carry the Apex with me on overseas trips to keep my working cutlery in good shape.


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## ConfederateScott (Jul 2, 2008)

I gave up on sharpening my pocket knife years ago. Benchmade re-sharpens it every couple of months for $7 (including shipping). For the kitchen knives I have one of the Samauri Sharks that BILLY MAYS hollers about on TV. It's a piece of crap but my wife bought it a Wal-Mart and I don't want to hurt her feelings by not using it.


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## CLHC (Jul 3, 2008)

Metatron said:


> well folks, picked up my *edge pro apex*, it really is a grand piece of equipment, i will give it a go tomorrow as my g/f requires a hone and polish first


:thumbsup: Let us know your thoughts on it!


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## Metatron (Jul 3, 2008)

CLHC said:


> :thumbsup: Let us know your thoughts on it!



i gotta say, that the amount of control over the actual sharpening experience far exceeds that of the lansky i was using. the angles remain constant, no jiggling about, and to aid this i have placed a small magnet under the 'knife table' and that settles the knife down a fair bit, given today's modern knives dont have a flat edge within cooee i will replace the ceramic rod that it comes with, with a flat steel just to rebend the edge, that will keep it razor sharp. all up folks, a great piece of equipment for those who enjoy perfection:thumbsup:


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## TigerhawkT3 (Jul 3, 2008)

I have three separate manual sharpening tools/systems (EZE-LAP diamond rod, Smith's DCS4 and CCD4), and I've found that they make my knives LESS sharp when I use them. Apparently, I really suck at hand-sharpening.  I like using a Craftsman Utility Sharpener, as I can get a servicable edge even with my non-existent sharpening skills.


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## ronemca (Jul 7, 2008)

Just to add my 2 ½ cents...

(And with the up-front admission that I am an amateur) I picked up a Lansky system a few days ago, and I don't like it. I think it is poorly designed, and leaves alot of room for inconsistencies in the angle settings; not only between knives, but also even between stone to stone.

Because of the amount of adjustment in the positioning of the rod, the coarse hone might deliver...say...26º, the medium 25º, and the fine 27º. These are just examples - not meant to be specifics. But I've been watching with a headband magnifier, and I'm having a helluva time getting a neat, consistent edge with even three hones. I can't imagine how widely the angle(s) would vary if I had 4 or 5 hones. Wow.

If the blade was perfectly straight along its entire length (i.e.: at 90º to the ideal direction of stroke) then it might be better. But for tanto or other curving blades...

But I also acknowledge that I just got it, so maybe my opinion will improve over time.


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## chmsam (Jul 7, 2008)

The Lansky system definitely does take getting used to and with practice works well. It really benefits from using one of their stands, either bench mounted or clamped to a solid surface. Use light pressure and run the hone along the blade as if you have divided the blade into small segments. Don't try to use the hone in a sweeping motion, covering large segments of the blade in one swipe. Just push the hone straight back toward the spine of the blade, lift (don't hone back toward the edge!), and move the hone a little bit further along the blade so there is a slight overlap, and hone again. It does take some practice to get used to it. 

If you form a "wire edge" (that happens when the blade edge gets thin enough to start to fold over like a hook) you can very, very light hone it at a slightly steeper angle to remove it. The false edge of a wire edge is really, really sharp but brittle and so will seem to dull quickly. If your super sharp edge seems to go dull in a flash, that's a good sigh you only have a wire edge.

The Lansky setup does not work terribly well with long blades and with some curved blades. What it does do for people who are not used to, or not good at, free hand sharpening with a hone is remove the problem of "muscle memory," i.e., you need to hold a consistent angle as you run the knife over the stone. If the Lansky still has a degree or so of play, it is still far better than three degrees or more of play in free handing it. If you can maintain a consistent angle while using a free hand, bench stone setup, that's the best way to get a sharp edge, but a lot of people find that really difficult.

On another note, occasionally I meet folks who get really mad at the sharpener or system they are using and do not realize that it is sometimes not the hone but the steel in the knife that is to blame. I work with several folks who think the hones they are using are junk because their knives go dull so quickly. Most of the knives they are using are flea market specials from Pakistan and China that were made with very soft steel and not made well even with that. Knives like that wouldn't hold an edge no matter what but these folks refuse to think that their "good bargain" is really to blame. Of course, it is different with a well made knife, but soft steel and poor hardening make for a rotten knife both to use and to sharpen.

Also, I use my knives a lot and only sharpen them every few months. Why? Because I learned to use a steel to realign the edge every time I use a knife. Steels are not for sharpening but will straighten the edge, which bends over as you apply pressure to cut things or as you push a kitchen knife through food and it contacts the cutting board. Learn to hone, but also learn how to properly use a knife steel. I also use a strop to polish the edge of a knife -- something as simple as a flat piece of cardboard can help. Lastly, I clean off the edge of a knife that has cut through tape, adhesive, or anything else that gets on the edge. I try to do these things every time I use a knife since none of these will remove metal from the edge. Too much sharpening removes metal from the edge needlessly.


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## Metatron (Jul 7, 2008)

yup even with the edge pro, skills are needed and ur spot on there with the 'steel' comment. gotta keep those edges aligned!


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## shuter (Jul 10, 2008)

ronemca - Don't lose heart. Everything takes practice. The long curved blades are definately a challenge. I advise getting the book "The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening" It can be found at the following address: razeredgesystems com just add the dot before the com.

Everything you will ever need to know about creating sharp durable edges can be found there. Once you understand the mechanics involved in sharpening you will be able to apply the information to your knives and the Lansky sharpening system. 

I use a compound angle (explained in the book) on all of my blades and over the years everyone who has used one of my knives marvels at the sharpness and durability of the edge. A big advantage of the compound edge is that you can resharpen the blade two or three times with just a few strokes from a very fine stone.

Try "setting" the sharpening rods by laying them on a flat surface with the stone attached. Carefully bend the rods where they make the 90 degree turn, as needed, to make sure that the stone and the rod both lay flat on the table. This should solve the inconsistancy issue you speak of.


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## Metatron (Jul 10, 2008)

ronemca said:


> Just to add my 2 ½ cents...
> 
> (And with the up-front admission that I am an amateur) I picked up a Lansky system a few days ago, and I don't like it. I think it is poorly designed, and leaves alot of room for inconsistencies in the angle settings; not only between knives, but also even between stone to stone.
> 
> ...


yes, that is exactly what i saw happening thru my eyeglass, now thats ok if ur sharpenng an axe
but, the apex does the job well, to say the least. i am happy.


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## shuter (Jul 10, 2008)

I recommended a Lansky sharpening system since I have used one for so many years with great success. It has its weaknesses but mostly they can be overcome with practice.

The Apex appears to be very nice tool. Its larger size and longer stroke will help overcome some of the weaknesses of the Lansky. Without having used one, I would guess it is an improvement on the rod guide concept. It appears to be very well made. It also costs many times more than the inexpensive Lansky. 

There are many other sharpeners available based on the rod guide concept. Some will be more precise. There are also jigs that hold the blade at a precise angle while jig and blade are pushed along a flat stone. These will work as well. I say pick your tool of choice and budget. Just remember, *the key to sharpening your blade is maintaining the same angle of the blade and sharpening tool throughout the sharpening process*. I do not know anyone who can do that freehand.


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## Metatron (Jul 10, 2008)

shuter said:


> I recommended a Lansky sharpening system since I have used one for so many years with great success. It has its weaknesses but mostly they can be overcome with practice.
> 
> The Apex appears to be very nice tool. Its larger size and longer stroke will help overcome some of the weaknesses of the Lansky. Without having used one, I would guess it is an improvement on the rod guide concept. It appears to be very well made. It also costs many times more than the inexpensive Lansky.
> 
> There are many other sharpeners available based on the rod guide concept. Some will be more precise. There are also jigs that hold the blade at a precise angle while jig and blade are pushed along a flat stone. These will work as well. I say pick your tool of choice and budget. Just remember, *the key to sharpening your blade is maintaining the same angle of the blade and sharpening tool throughout the sharpening process*. I do not know anyone who can do that freehand.



amen to that


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## Fargus (Jul 15, 2008)

It should be pointed out that the sharpening system and/or methods used vary with the blade grind. The majority (if not all) of the sharpening systems/tools cited so far are meant for concave and flat grinds. If you try to use the same methods on a convex ground edge, you will wind up (at the least) altering the blade's characteristics to the point where it really works against the intended purpose/usage of the knife. 

Make sure you know your blade's design and choose a sharpening method that is compatible with maintaining the intended grind. Otherwise, you may wind up becoming confused as to why your knife isn't performing or maintaining an edge as expected. I've seen quite a few claims that a quality knife is 'junk' when in actuality the knife has been subjected to improper sharpening method(s) and the poor performance of the blade thereafter is purely self-inflicted due to ignorance.

Convex grind info.


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## shuter (Jul 16, 2008)

Fargus said:


> It should be pointed out that the sharpening system and/or methods used vary with the blade grind. The majority (if not all) of the sharpening systems/tools cited so far are meant for concave and flat grinds. If you try to use the same methods on a convex ground edge, you will wind up (at the least) altering the blade's characteristics to the point where it really works against the intended purpose/usage of the knife.
> 
> Make sure you know your blade's design and choose a sharpening method that is compatible with maintaining the intended grind. Otherwise, you may wind up becoming confused as to why your knife isn't performing or maintaining an edge as expected. I've seen quite a few claims that a quality knife is 'junk' when in actuality the knife has been subjected to improper sharpening method(s) and the poor performance of the blade thereafter is purely self-inflicted due to ignorance.
> 
> ...


 
I have a custom made hunting knife from a Knifemaker in Oregon that came with a comvex grind. It was extreemly sharp. I did not know about convex grinds and figured I could not resharpen it. I put a new edge on it with the lansky and have since skinned a couple dozen Deer and two Elk with it. A beautiful knife that still looks almost new. 

Had I read the Convex grind info you provided I would have tried to maintain the original edge. I am partial to a beautifully polished bevel though.


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## adamlau (Jul 16, 2008)

The Sharpmaker is clean and fast, but I could never get my Specwar to the point where it would slice paper. It would hold a utility edge well, but that was about it.


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## bhds (Jul 16, 2008)

Does anyone know how the manufacturers sharpen the knives when they are made?


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## adamlau (Jul 16, 2008)

No idea. But the past few blades I ordered direct from Spyderco shipped to me scary sharp  .


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## chmsam (Jul 16, 2008)

If I remember correctly from a Blade magazine article from a few years ago, at least one company used buffers, a leather wheel, and the like. Not for the home use or inexperienced crowd unless you want to be known as "lefty" or "Capt. Hook!" And actually the blade would probably end up being thrown back into your gut or legs if it grabbed and that could be interesting for a lot of wrong reasons as well. 

Putting it mildly, that looked very dangerous unless you had a number of years experience with a buffer. Way too easy to have the buffer grab the blade with just an instant of not paying attention.

If it were me and I wanted an edge sharper than I can get (and I pretty much do not), I'd either send the knife back to the maker/manufacturer or look in the yellow pages for a commercial sharpener in the area. Most grocery stores, butcher shops, meat markets, and the like could tell you to whom they send their knives. I kind of doubt that too many businesses have an in house sharpening service these days but I could be wrong.


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## Fargus (Jul 16, 2008)

shuter said:


> I have a custom made hunting knife from a Knifemaker in Oregon that came with a comvex grind. It was extreemly sharp. I did not know about convex grinds and figured I could not resharpen it. I put a new edge on it with the lansky and have since skinned a couple dozen Deer and two Elk with it. A beautiful knife that still looks almost new.
> 
> Had I read the Convex grind info you provided I would have tried to maintain the original edge. I am partial to a beautifully polished bevel though.



There are quite a few articles out there on the purposes/uses of various grinds. I'm sure you and many others on here buy certain knives for an intended purpose outside of being a collectible or shelf queen. Personally, I expect my knives to work, not lay around on a shelf to be admired.

In many, but certainly not all, cases a designer uses a specific grind for a reason. The steel, tempering, blade cut (design), and, in some models, laminating are all selected to have their maximum potential and longevity reached by the grind. This isn't to say that a knife is necessarily ruined by altering the grind, but improper sharpening and altering a specific grind can work against the intended uses for a blade. 

There are quite a few You Tube videos on how to properly sharpen a convex ground edge. It is actually easier than many of the systems out there for other types of grinds. A block of wood, some stiff, undyed leather, and some fine (green) polishing compound is all that's really needed for the most part. Result is a sharp blade that functions as intended.


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