# Tad Customs Questions.



## thermal guy (Mar 28, 2019)

I’m slowly getting back to using my incandescent lights as I’m mainly an led guy so I’m having to learn new stuff all over again. I’m thinking of getting a tad customs and 140 lumens bi pins for my E2d. Ok I know exactly the square root of zero about them so those that have them please chime in. How are they, how do they compare to stock sf or Lf bulbs. Are they pretty tough? Thanks


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## Lumen83 (Mar 29, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> I’m slowly getting back to using my incandescent lights as I’m mainly an led guy so I’m having to learn new stuff all over again. I’m thinking of getting a tad customs and 140 lumens bi pins for my E2d. Ok I know exactly the square root of zero about them so those that have them please chime in. How are they, how do they compare to stock sf or Lf bulbs. Are they pretty tough? Thanks



They are a great and very inexpensive way for an incan fan to have incan lighting for the rest of their life in a time where bulbs for these older lights are becoming scarce and extremely expensive. However, they do not compare in terms of reliability/durability. That is because the bulbs can pop out of the socket when dropped. This has happened to me with my e2e twice. The LF bulbs do not have this issue, and neither do the SFs. But you are going to pay way more for those. So, what I do is keep tads bulbs in all of my lights that I play around with for fun. And use LF and SF bulbs in lights that I depend in in critical situations.


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## thermal guy (Mar 29, 2019)

Stupid question. Would a very small dab of hot glue hold it in! I think you could peel it off the brass easily to change bulb.if they make high temp stuff that is.


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## peter yetman (Mar 29, 2019)

That's exactly what I was thinking.........
P


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## night.hoodie (Mar 29, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> . I’m thinking of getting a tad customs and 140 lumens bi pins for my E2d.



That's the wrong lamp for 2 cells (unless you are runnng 16650 secondary cells, or are bored for 18650). The 140 lumen A3718 is for one Li-ion secondary cell only. You are welcome to try it with 2 cells, but I promise you that you'll instantly flash the lamp at every attempt.

Depending on whether you are running 2 primary or 2 secondary cells, 
the proper lamps for E2d is either the
120 lumen *A4812* (primary only) or the 
200 lumen *A7212* (secondary 3.7V cells only, IMR recommended) or the
150 lumen *A6010* (secondary 3.2V LifePO4 cells only).

Look at Tad's lamp chart. Keep looking at it. Keep looking. Eventually it makes sense, I promise. Pay attention to the amps and voltage specs of the lamps, and identify them by their name, A3712, A3718, etc, not by the lumens stated.

It is not often the lamp dislodges from the socket. Happens sometimes if you drop the light on its head over and over. Before you attempt solve "the problem" with glue... better make sure it is actually a problem for you. I have been running Tad's lamps for a couple years of heavy use, and only very rarely do I need to tap the light on its tail to force the bipin to settle further in the socket.

If anyone has had a Tad's lamp completely dislodge from the socket, I'd like to hear it. The worst I have seen is the light will go intermittent when using certain angles. Tapping the tail on a hard surface corrects (rather than pulling the socket and pushing the lamp back in).

I like to run dimmer lights, so I often use the A6010 with a single cell, but it is dimmer and yellow because I underdrive it. Best performance is when voltages match.


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## Lumen83 (Mar 29, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> Stupid question. Would a very small dab of hot glue hold it in! I think you could peel it off the brass easily to change bulb.if they make high temp stuff that is.




I am literally clueless when it comes to adhesives. I don't know what high temp stuff would bond brass to glass. Maybe its common, maybe it doesn't exist. I have no idea. But, if it did exist, then ya that could work. Its not like they're falling out all of the time though, in case I misrepresented it. They've only fallen out when dropped about 4 feet onto a hard surface. So I'd be happy to state that unless you are trusting your life with them, they're perfectly suitable and are a great option for just about anything else.


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## bykfixer (Mar 29, 2019)

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?422097-Tad-Customs-E-series-Bi-Pin-Socket

Here's the official Tads E thread.


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## thermal guy (Mar 29, 2019)

night.hoodie said:


> That's the wrong lamp for 2 cells (unless you are runnng 16650 secondary cells, or are bored for 18650). The 140 lumen A3718 is for one Li-ion secondary cell only. You are welcome to try it with 2 cells, but I promise you that you'll instantly flash the lamp at every attempt.
> 
> Depending on whether you are running 2 primary or 2 secondary cells,
> the proper lamps for E2d is either the
> ...



16650 is exactly what I planned on running.


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## night.hoodie (Mar 30, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> 16650 is exactly what I planned on running.



You left out that rather important detail.

Assuming 2500mAh with A3718 @ 1.8A, if my math is right, runtime is about an hour and 23 minutes.
Also stock up on A3712 @ 1.2A, if I can math, runtime is about 2 hours 5 minutes.

I only notice the difference between these two lamps in the first 15 minutes of runtime where A3718 is clearly much brighter. But for me, A3712 is already too bright for it's own good on a single secondary, noticeably brighter than MN03 on 2 primaries. 

Corresponded with Tad about offering a half amp lamp for 3.7V, and there was a possibility, but it wouldn't focus, fell through for now. I have been using MN02 with one secondary cell, very pleased with runtime. With one you get about 18 lumens (with one secondary cell), and that is just right for darkness and dark adaptation, and with 2500mAh will give you nearly 5 hours of runtime. Use a LightSaver Miser tailcap, and you can stretch ~9 lumens to ~9 hours and 48 minutes. Good luck finding an MN02. Makes zero sense that SF stopped producing something that is still in demand. :/


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## bykfixer (Mar 30, 2019)

I'm using a 3712 in an A2 and it puts out about the same _amount_ of light as the stock bulb, but the beam is smooooooooth!!






Nice n round, and artifact free.


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## thermal guy (Mar 30, 2019)

Thanks guys that’s the kind of info I was hoping for 👍🏻
I’m not looking for low output night walks in the house light. Got a ton of low level lights for that. Kinda looking for something that throws good and has some lumens behind it.


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## night.hoodie (Mar 31, 2019)

thermal guy said:


> Got a ton of low level lights for that.



Like? plz share



thermal guy said:


> Kinda looking for something that throws good and has some lumens behind it.



You're doing it right.

A3718 is bright, but 1.8A will have more voltage sag than matching 2 16340 IMR cells with A7212, which is considerably brighter and has a smoother output curve along cell capacity, which is of course much lower than 16650 cells. Also there is a 1000lm halogen bipin fivemega may still supply, but I think it pulls 3A, so runtime too low on 2x16340, needs 2x18350s, 18500s or 18650s

I recommend you Pepsi Challenge the A3718 against the A3712. One is super bright when your voltage is high, but output curve is smoother with 1.2A... depends if you really feel that you need that many incan lumens, because towards the middle of your run capacity, both lamps output about the same for the naked eye. 

Incan throws no matter the lumens, btw. 2 incan lumens will outthrow 10x the LED lumens, all other aspects equal. I believe low incan lumens throw just as far as high incan lumens, but the target gets less light. 

So much depends on the state of your eyes and how much ambient light you expect. In total darkness, the brightness of 140 lumens obliterates dark adaptivity, so when your light is off, even in moonlight, you will basically be blind (and this effect increases immensely indoors, or with early-morning eyes indoors, ouch). Lower lumens ensures you will still be able to see without the light. If you are especially conscientious about where you point 140 lumens, you may be able to salvage some dark adaptability (but not indoors)... avoid illuminating shiny close up objects. The ambient light of twilight wants more lumens, also urban areas with street lighting, as many lumens as possible, I say. But the darkness of a new moon at midnight in the sticks, I believe one is better off with less lumens for safety, in case you lose the light, you should still be able to see without falling down.


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## thermal guy (Mar 31, 2019)

My low level lights are my hds and Malkoff’s with hi/lo ring also have some lumitop AAA’s and eagtac.


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## bykfixer (Mar 31, 2019)

Optics can change the game hoodie. But in a conventional reflector/flat lens setup yes, the incan physics makeup casts more light forward. 

Case in point is my little 3 lumen 1xaa Rayovac LED light with a dome lens throws out much more light than my incan Solitaire with a fresh battery. Albeit, an awful blue rimmed LED spot beam versus a nice warm spider web artifact incan beam. lol. 

The bulb sends out light forward, sideways and backward, which collect onto the reflector as a group and 'reflect' out the front. The LED fires forward only. 

The Tad's bulbs use a gas (probably xenon) that allows good old incan brightness that some say darkens over time where SureFire used a secret recipe to thwart off the darkening. PK told me the gas caused an overdrive to the filament, which causes it to fail before visible soot build up occured.


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## thermal guy (Mar 31, 2019)

I remember many many moons ago the only way you got good throw was with an incandescent. Oh the arguments from the incandescent thread bashing led lights and that they would NEVER be able to out throw a good old gas filled bulb.i guess times have changed but still if you look at output levels it takes a lot of lumens to out throw and incandescent light.im better an old school M6 loaded with high output hardware would trump a lot of 5000 lumen throwers. Got to love them. Just wish they would run for more then 20 minutes on a set of batteries.


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## bykfixer (Mar 31, 2019)

I have an 7D cell number (1960's Dog Supply House) with a 5" reflector that throws as well as my 1200 lumen SureFire EDCLT-2. Yet it's only about 175 lumens or so. And the SureFire uses magnifiers to acheive it's throw. 

Those PR shaped bulbs were pretty dawg gone good at tossing out photons given a large enough and shiney enough reflector.


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## InvisibleFrodo (May 14, 2019)

Tad customs website is down? The timing is horrible, I was getting ready to make an order. Their stuff is too nice to disappear... Did they change to a new address? Anyone else know anything about this?


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## DayofReckoning (May 14, 2019)

InvisibleFrodo said:


> Tad customs website is down? The timing is horrible, I was getting ready to make an order. Their stuff is too nice to disappear... Did they change to a new address? Anyone else know anything about this?



I noticed that too. However, the A2 socket that I ordered Friday evening on his ebay store was just shipped out today. Not sure what's going on at the moment with his website.


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## InvisibleFrodo (May 14, 2019)

I noticed the prices on the Bay are very different from the website direct. I guess if I don’t have a choice that’s still there...


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## Megalamuffin (Apr 21, 2022)

Does anyone know where to get one of these sockets? I’m not finding anything with an online search.


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## WarriorOfLight (Apr 21, 2022)

Tad Customs is out of business since ~2 years. If I remember correctly the begin of the end was when Covid was starting.

Some time ago there was once in a while stuff available at ebay. Don't know if this is still the case...?

Only to give you a feeling. I bought my Tad Customs stuff 2017/2018.


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## vicv (Apr 21, 2022)

I asked him about something a couple months ago. He has no stock left and is done in the business unfortunately


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## Megalamuffin (Apr 21, 2022)

Dang, now it’ll be tough trying to find one.


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## vicv (Apr 21, 2022)

Yeah. I’ve had a WTB for an A2 adaptor for a month or so now and no hits. His bulbs are truly fantastic too it’s a shame we don’t have those available at least


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## Megalamuffin (Apr 21, 2022)

So the tads bulbs are specifically fit for the socket? Are other bulbs useable?


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## vicv (Apr 21, 2022)

The ones that I have, are the same size as maglite‘s bi-pin and bulbs. But with a little thinner of a base. So the filament will sit a little bit lower in the reflector. Whether that matters for your particular light or not I’m not sure. The bulbs are just well-made. I also have some of his PR 13.5 base bulbs which are also excellent. I have one of them in a maglite. With a smooth metal reflector. It’s a beast. They were rated for 60 hours. I would say they are driven at spec. About the same CCT as an 82 aviator. And I haven’t had one burn out yet


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## vicv (Apr 21, 2022)

So strion and Stinger bulb should work in one of the sockets as well


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## Megalamuffin (Apr 21, 2022)

Then it’s worth trying to hunt down. Thanks for the info vicv.


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## vicv (Apr 21, 2022)

No problem. I have some of his 7212 bypen bulbs I use in a maglite ML25 IT. And two 18500s or three times CR123 cells. Because of the filament issue I had to raise the bulb a bit in socket and I used hot glue to lock it into place. It's a very tight beam. I mostly use this light for quick bursts of illumination as I'm worried I will melt the plastic reflector. So it gets a lot of startup amps. I'm still on my first one and figuring must have 10 hours on it. There is no darkening and it is just as good as it was when new. So yeah I would say they are worth hunting down. I just don't know where you get any. Maybe do a WTB
here


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## chillinn (May 25, 2022)

vicv said:


> So strion and Stinger bulb should work in one of the sockets as well



Streamlight lamps can still be had, but I hesitate spending $10 plus ship on a lamp that "should" work. If they were as inexpensive as Tad's lamps, it wouldn't be an issue. But I am living month to month, and $10 lost will burn me. This is something that really needs verified, and with images posted so everyone can see, which would lead to more members experimenting, and more data. If it fits in the socket and the base isn't too tall, I'm sure with trial and error we can make it focus, and then know, then let everyone know.

Any CPF members out there running Streamlight incans that also have a T. customs E socket? (I've always wanted to get a Stinger, but I never got to it before my budget shrank to nothing.


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## bykfixer (May 25, 2022)

The Maglite site has bi-pins up to 6 cell for $8. It's a PR to bi-pin conversion kit. They have the same spread as the TL3 bulb. I used a TL bulb in a 3 cell ML25 with 2x18650 batteries versus the 5 cell Mag because it produced a better beam.

Same spread as the Tads bulbs too. Tads had a better beam but all I had was for the 6 volts of an A2 with 2 CR123's fueling it. I tried an A2 voltage Tads bulb in a 2 cell ML25 powered by LifePo4 18500's but stuck with a 4 cell Maglite because I only had one Tads and wanted to keep that in the A2. I forget Tads model numbers.


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## chillinn (May 25, 2022)

Thanks bykfixer. Can I just link to a bulb search there?
Maglite site Bulb search
I wish I knew the Mag terminology, TL? TL3? PR? The way you talk is so jazzy, bykfixer. With the way you write, you might consider performing spoken word up in the fan, slip or bottom. 




bykfixer said:


> I forget Tads model numbers.



archive.org snapshot of tadcustoms.com


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## bykfixer (May 25, 2022)

TL 3 is a Streamlight that used 3 CR123 so the bulb was good up to 9 volts.

PR is the flanged bulb a Maglite came with long ago and the conversion kit is a plug that fits in the hole that the PR (meaning "pre-focused") used to and has two holes to plug a bi-pin bulb in.

Mag terminology is simple. 2 cell, 3 cell etc. Each based on 1.2 volts per cell so a 3 cell was a 3.6 volt bulb for example but could easily take 4.8. My 4C (4.8 volts) uses a 3 cell bulb for example.

I suppose I have a 3712. The 80 lumen one because I do remember I was shooting for as close to factory as I could.

I am not covered in art nor does my face look like I head butted my dads open fishing tackle box so I'd probably not be welcome at the Fan, the Bottom or the Slip. I did chat with Elvis Costello at the Alley Katz during the Emmett Swimming show in the late 90's.


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## chillinn (May 26, 2022)

Thank you for the Mag primer, bykfixer. That all makes sense,

A3712 is nothing like MN01, different voltages and amps, but maybe it is closer to MN03 (which A4812 is closest to). And there was a problem with the A3012, which would have been close to MN01 (but brighter with less runtime, MN01, I think is 0.7A), but never Tad released because it would not focus. But Tad sent me a sample A3012, and I couldn't find a problem with it, ran it with two Eneloops for 2 months until it accidentally got put in the wrong head, got too much voltage and 


I got a Superchunk bootleg from Alley Katz in 2003; they had me running lights, and the next thing I know I'm dancing in front of the stage. But I'll never forget early 90's Flood Zone every Wednesday for $5... was an incredible bargain for weekly Dave Matthews Band shows before their music contract. I would have gone to see Elvis had I heard about it. Pretty amazing talent.


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