# Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS+



## selfbuilt (Mar 27, 2013)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











Last summer, I reviewed the initial launch of the G25C2 - a new, top-of-the-line, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR flashlight from Eagletac. Eagletac has recently sent me a new sample of the Mark II build, with the XM-L2 U2 Cool White emitter. Let's see how it compares to my original XM-L G25C2 T5/T6 Neutral, and the more recent competition. :wave:

Note that the external styling and appearance of the light is not that different from the original version, aside from the new Mark II label (see below). As I result, I will re-use some of the photos from my earlier G25C2 review, updating where anything has changed.






*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cree XM-L2 (Cool White U2 or Neutral White T6 available)
ANSI FL-1 Lumens for Cree XM-L2 U2 Cool White: Regular mode: 980/449/86/7 lumens, Tactical mode: 980/141 lumens
Note: U2 LED is approximately 7% brighter than the T6
Runtime: Regular mode: 1/1.9/11/100+ hours, Tactical mode: 1/7 hours
Note: Runtime measurement is taken with energy saving feature (on by default) and with two CR123A. G25C2 reduces output by 20% after 200 seconds at turbo mode. User can disable or enable this energy saving feature.
Powered by 2xCR123A, 2xRCR123A, or 1x18650 li-ion. 
With 3 cell body extender: 3xCR123A, or 3xRCR123A li-ion
With 4 cell body extender: 4xCR123A, or 2x18650 li-ion4 
With 3x18650 extender: 3x18650 li-ion
Voltage range: 2.7V - 12.6V
Beam Intensity (U2 version): 21,800 lux
Beam Distance (U2 version): 323 yards / 295 meters
Two groups of basic output modes, Tactical (100% / 10% / Strobe / Strobe) and Regular (100% / 35% / 6% / 0.6%) – user selectable
Brightness level selected by loosening/tightening head/bezel
Four levels brightness (user selectable sets) and seven hidden auxillary modes - Strobe/Strobe(Var)/Flash(Hi)/S.O.S.(Fast)/S.O.S./Becaon/Flash(Lo) 
Titanium coated stainless steel bezel (removable)
Waterwhite glass lens w/ harden treatment
Anti-reflective (AR) coating on both sides (96% transparency)
HAIII hard anodization aerospace aluminum (black)
Titanium coated Stainless steel pocket clip
Smooth aluminum reflector
IPX-8 waterproof
Heavy Duty Nylon Holster w/ self-retention device and flip
Mil-Spec Paracord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip
Included Accessories: Spare O-rings, GITD (Glow in the dark) switch boot , User manual, Tail-stand rubber boot, Soft cigar holding grip, Cigar grip cover ring, Lanyard ring attachment ring
Optional kit: Durable aluminum flip-over filter assembly, Diffuser, yellow, red, blue, and green optical grade anti-reflective coated add-on lens, 3 cells extension body tube for three CR123A/RCR123A, 4 cells extension body tube for four CR123A or two 18650 li-ion
Dimensions: Head Diameter 1.55 inches (39.5 mm), Body Diameter 1.0 inches (25 mm), Length: 5.9 inches (150 mm), Weight excluding battery: 4.8 ounces (138 grams)
MSRP: ~$110 (~$150 with accessory kit)






Inside the standard Eagletac box, you get the light with a soft rubber grip ring and metal pocket clip installed. Included inside the box is a rubber tailstanding cap, belt holster with metal button clasp, wrist lanyard, extra o-rings, GITD switch boot cover, cigar grip cover ring, lanyard attachment ring, manual, and warranty card. 

My review sample came with the full accessory kit. This provides an the aluminum flip-top screw-on bezel with diffuser, yellow, red, blue, and green filter lenses, 3 cell extension body tube, and 4 cell extension body tube with anti-rattle insert.









From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Eagletac G25C2, T20C2-II; Foursevens X7; Klarus XT-11; Thrunite TN11; Lumintop TD-15X.





From left to right: AW Protected 18650; Eagletac G25C2 Mark II; Nitecore P25; Rofis TR31C; Nitecore MH25; Crelant 7G6CS.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Eagletac G25C2-II* (stock): Weight 141.0g, Length: 150.6mm, Width: 39.6mm
*Eagletac G25C2-II* (with diffuser/tailstand cap): Weight 157.0g, Length: 181mm, Width (widest, at bezel diffuser hinge): 46.2mm
*Eagletac G25C2* (stock): Weight 144.3g, Length: 150.6mm, Width (bezel): 39.6mm
*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Foursevens Quark Q123-2 X* (Regular tailcap): Weight: 44.6g, Length: 112.7mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm
*Klarus XT11*: Weight 133.0g, Length: 148.8, Width (bezel) 35.0mm
*Nitecore MH25*: Weight: 145.4g, Length: 160mm, Width (bezel): 40.0m
*Rofis TR31C*: Weight: 180.7g, Length: 153.0mm, Width (bezel): 39.8mm
*Thrunite TN10*: Weight: 154.7g, Length: 145.5mm, Width (bezel): 35.1mm
*Zebralight SC600*: Weight 87.2g, Length: 107.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm

Overall weight has dropped slightly on the G25C2-II compared to my original G25C2 sample, but overall dimensions are otherwise unchanged.

*Common build:*









*Original G25C2: *









*New G25C2-II:*









Physically, the G25C2 Mark II build is not that different from the original G25C2. Anodizing remains a glossy black (HA = type III). All labels are bright and clear (sharp against the black background). There is a new label on the base of the head with "Mark II".

As before, knurling is present in several bands over body/tail/head, and is of reasonable aggressiveness. I would say grip has definitely increased from the earlier model Eagletac T-series lights. 

Screw threading remains the same traditional-cut (and fairly fine) in the tail region. One minor point is the gold-colored contact cover for the spring in the tailcap. But the major difference on the Mark II version is that the _tail threads are no longer anodized for lock-out._ This is an unfortunate change, and one that I suspect is due to enforcement of a patent restriction from another maker. :sigh: 

Screw threads in the head region remain square-cut (and thick). One difference on the Mark II body tube is that the head region is now traditional aluminum color (instead of brass on the original G25C2). I am not sure of the reason for the change. Please see the pics above and UI discussion below for more details on the contact surfaces. Note that you will need to use cells that have at least some sort of raised protrusion on the positive contact surface (i.e., a small or large button top).

The bundled cigar grip ring is made of rubber, with an extra thin rubber band cover included (in case you want to remove the ring but keep the area covered).

The titanium-coated stainless steel pocket clip is held in place by a metal screw cover. The clip is removable, and the cover hides the attachment point. 

With the tailstanding rubber cover installed, the light can tailstand. Switch is a forward clicky switch with traditional feel as before.

There is also a two-piece plastic lanyard attachment ring bundled with the light (for use at the tailcap instead of the tailstanding cover). 

G25C2-II









Reflector is basically smooth. It is not quite as shiny as some others I've seen, but I would still consider it as smooth. Note the XM-L2 emitter (which is well centered). You can distinguish the XM-L2 (shown above) from the original XM-L by the lack of bond wires over the die surface now, and the use of a silver mask (instead of green) outside the die/dome area. 

One of the key features of the optional accessory kit is the replacement bezel with flip-top diffuser/filter cover.






The stock head has a scalloped titanium-coated stainless steel bezel ring, replaceable with the screw-on diffuser/filter assembly. 
























The flip-top diffuser is very high quality, made of aluminum. :thumbsup: Hinge mechanism is good (although stiff on my sample), and the whole unit has a solid feel. There is a metal retaining ring holding the glass lens in place (swappable between the frosted diffuser shown above and four colored filters). 

Eagletac is using high-quality optical glass filters. This is true for all the filters, including the red one (which often tends to be just a colored piece of glass on many Eagletac filters). :twothumbs

In case you are wondering, here is how the head compares to the earlier Eagletac T20C2-II, with and without diffuser covers (plastic screw on diffuser for the T20C2-II):










*User Interface*

User interface is largely unchanged from the earlier version of the G25C2. As before, turn the light on/off by the tailcap forward clicky switch (press for momentary, click for locked-on).

There are four output levels controlled by simply loosening or tightening the head (i.e., the four levels are accessed in sequence from head fully tight). There are two possible groups of output modes available - Tactical (100% > 10% > Strobe > Strobe, in sequence) and Regular (100% > 35% > 6% > 0.6%, in sequence). You can switch between the two groups by loosening the head to the second level and rapidly clicking the switch off/on 20 times rapidly in a row.

In terms of the head twist, as soon as you loosen past fully tight you drop down to the second level. From there, you drop down again to the third level after a ~90 degree angle turn, and similarly again for the fourth level after another ~90 degrees. This means that after ~190 degree turn from tight, the light is in the lowest mode. It remains in this mode until you complete almost a full turn from fully tight (at which point the light shuts off).

It is important that you keep all the contact surfaces in the head and the top of the battery tube clean. Eagletac recommends regular use of red Deoxit contact cleaner, and limiting silicone lube to the o-rings only (i.e., not to the threads). I can confirm that mode switching can become erratic if the threads dirty-up (especially for moving in/out of the highest levels, and accessing the auxiliary modes).

To access the hidden auxiliary modes, do a quick loosen-tighten twist of the head (from first level tight to third level and back again). Repeat this twist to advance through the modes. Mode sequence is: Strobe I > Strobe II > Hi-Flash > SOS I > SOS II > Beacon > Lo-Flash, in repeating sequence. Note that this is updated slightly from the original G25C2, with two additional blinking modes now. Turn off the light or loosen the head to quit the hidden modes. I will describe these modes in more detail below. 

There is an "energy saving feature" (on by default) when the light reduces output by ~25% after 200 seconds in Turbo (was ~20% on the original G25C2). To toggle this feature off/on, loosen the head to the fourth level and the click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch. When off, you will get a smaller ~10% drop in output after 200 secs.

There is also a momentary tailcap strobe setting (off by default). To toggle this feature, tighten the head fully and click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I presume the lights are current-controlled.  

Strobe I mode:






The main strobe is a fairly typical fast "tactical" strobe, of 9.8 Hz frequency.

Strobe II:





The second strobe mode is an alternating or "oscillating" strobe, switching between 6.5Hz and 15.1Hz every 2 seconds. 

Hi-Flash:





Hi-Flash is basically a full power slow strobe/beacon mode. Frequency was a reasonable ~1.6Hz. Note that the deflection spikes you see above are just the on and off signals of the pulse (i.e., it spends roughly half the time on, half the time off, with each pulse). 

SOS I:





The "fast" SOS signals the full SOS sequence (dot-dot-dot, dash-dash-dash, dot-dot-dot) in just under 3 secs. Note again that the traces above refer to both the on- and off-signal for each pulse of light.

SOS II:





In contrast, the "slow" SOS takes just under 3 seconds just do the "S" (i.e. dot-dot-dot), and about 4 second to do the "O" (i.e., dash-dash-dash), with a good 3 seconds in-between each Morse code letter. Personally, this seems far more useful than the rather frenetic initial SOS mode.

Beacon:





Beacon is a slow full output flash (almost 2 secs long), re-occurring approximately every ~14 secs (i.e., a very slow beacon)

Lo-Flash:

Lo-Flash is a lower output, slower frequency strobe/beacon than Hi-Flash. I detected 10 flashes in a ~20 sec period (i.e. about 0.5 Hz).

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences (i.e., my G25C2 Neutral White won't look any different from the others, but it is a lot warmer in real life). 

Note that the flip-top diffuser cover assembly was installed for the original G25C2 shots, with the diffuser up (although this still narrows the spillbeam slightly, due to the extended collar).





























































The XM-L2 U2-equipped G25C2-II has more output than the original G25C2 (XM-L T5/T6 version), and is overall very similar to the new Olight M22 (XM-L2). Note that use of the screw-on flip-top diffuser on my original G25C2 above narrows the spillbeam somewhat – with equivalent bezels, they really have comparable spillbeam width. 

In case you are curious as to how the diffuser changes the beam, here are some beamshots of the original G25C2 (NW XM-L T6) with the diffuser in place:
















As useful as the above shots are, I know people like to have a better idea of the beam angle with the diffuser. So for that, I have turned to my famed "integrating carpet." 










*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).
















The G25C2-II (with XM-L2 U2) is a definite output upgrade from my G25C2 (with XM-L T5/T6). This is due to more than just an emitter output bin upgrade – it would appear that Eagletac is driving these Mark II series lights higher than my original G25C2. I will discuss output bins in more detail below, but also check out my runtime results for more info.

It is interesting to compare these results to my recent TX25L2 (XM-L2 T6 NW) sample. Based on output bins alone, you would expect the XM-L2 U2-bin Cool White version here should be ~7% brighter on average than the TX25L2's XM-L2 T6 – if they were driven the same. Since my G25C2-II is marginally dimmer than my TX25L2, this leads me to suspect that the TX25L2 is driven even harder than my G25C2-II. I will discuss this further after we inspect the runtimes. 

In any case, the ~870 estimated lumens of my G25C2-II still puts this light at the top end of the 1x18650 class. Along with the TX25L2, it's remarkable to think this much light can be generated from a single 18650 cell. oo:

In terms of center beam throw, my G25C2-II sample is consistent with the manufacturer's specs. 

At the lowest level, output has increased on my G25C2-II compared to my original sample (i.e., now basically 9 estimated lumens, up from 2 originally).

Let's see how the new G25C2-II sample compares to the currently reported Eagletac specs for this light:






As you can see, my testing results are again generally very consistent with Eagletac's own specs. The one exception is perhaps the highest level, where my output measures seem to slightly under-report. 

 *It bears repeating again that my estimated lumen scale is just that - an estimate, based on a consistent calibration of my lightbox.* I suspect that the calibration slightly underestimates lights in the high-hundreds lumen range, but I have little data to compare in this range. In any case, even though the _absolute value_ correlation is unknown, the _relative_ comparisons still hold. All I can really say is that one light is higher or lower than another, by a certain relative percentage (e.g., my TX25L2 is slightly brighter than my G25C2-II, despite what the output bins are supposed to be). So please don't get hung up on the absolute values of the estimates, or on small relative percent changes. 

_XM-L2 vs XM-L_

While on the subject of output bins, I realize all this emitter talk may seem confusing, especially for those that don't keep up on the fine details of LEDs. 

Basically, these new XM-L2 emitters are very similar to the old XM-L, but are reported by Cree to deliver "up to" 20% more lumens and lumens-per-Watt than the classic XM-L of comparable output bin number (see Cree XM-L2 spec sheet here). However, directly comparing back to XM-L is complicated by the more stringent testing and reporting measures Cree is now using for XM-L2 output binning. If you are curious, XM-L emitters were previously output bin rated by luminous flux @350mA, @25 degree C. With the XM-L2, Cree has switched to a more representational (but more stringent) @85 degree C for binning purposes. 

There is actually an easy conversion though - if you look up the Cree spec tables under the same conditions, you will see that _*the new XM-L2 bins are exactly two bin steps brighter than the same bin number on XM-L*._ So a XM-L2 U2 is basically the same thing what a XM-L U4 would be (if such a beast had ever existed). This is part of the reason for the switch to the new process - there is now more "headroom" on the new XM-L2 platform, and higher output XM-L2 emitters can ultimately be produced. 

In terms of lumens though, you have to keep in mind how the binning process works. Given the ~7% range within each bin, this means that for any given specific XM-L2 sample could be anywhere from ~7-20% brighter than a comparably bin-numbered XM-L sample. This is presumably where that "up to" 20% brighter statement comes from in the Cree literature.  But you need to keep in mind that on average, a XM-L2 U2 should be _~13% brighter_ than a XM-L U2, for example. You really have to think of these things statistically – the bins are a range, and you don't know where exactly in the range any given sample will fall. 

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*




























There's a lot there to summarize, :sweat: but a few points seem clear to me. 

First, my G25C2-II (XM-L2 U2) is driven harder on Turbo than my original G25C2 (XM-L T5/T6), given the runtime differences. The three-four output bin steps between the emitters on these samples do not explain the ~50-60% increase in overall output on Turbo. 

Secondly, my TX25L2 (XM-L2 T6) is driven slightly harder than my G25C2-II (XM-L2 U2) on Turbo. This is interesting, given that my G25C2-II is supposedly an output bin step up from my TX25L2.

And third, the overall efficiency of my TX25L2 and G25C2-II seem virtually identical (even though my G25C2-II is supposed to be one output bin step up). :shrug: Such is the nature of output binning – any two samples separated by one bin could be anywhere from ~1-13% different. And given the variation in circuits, reflectors, lightbox placement, etc., expect a few more percentage point in either direction. In this case, my G25C2-II XM-L2 U2 seems to be performing equivalent to my XM-L2 T6-equipped TX25L2 (and XM-L2 T6-equipped Olight M22 for that matter).

But all this to say that output/runtime performance remains excellent on my Eagletac lights. :thumbsup:

As before, on Turbo, the default setting is for the light to step down after 200 secs – which allows it to enter a period of flat-regulation, before eventually dropping off in a typical direct-drive like pattern. Note consistent with the higher initial Turbo output, my G25C2-II seems to step down proportionally further than my original G25C2 did (i.e., a ~25% step-down now, instead of ~20% previously). With this feature turned off, there is a smaller ~10% drop, and the light remains largely in direct-drive most of the time. 

On all other levels, the light maintains perfectly flat regulation for an extended period, before dropping off slowly in output (on 1x18650 or 2xCR123A) or with an abrupt shut-down due to protection circuits being triggered (2xRCR). Note that like my TX25L2, the main LED begins to flash once the batteries are nearly exhausted (on 1x18650 or 2xCR123A). The flashing is at a slow rate, about once every 30 secs. 

As with my other recent Eagletac lights, ANSI FL-1 runtime specs are pretty consistent with my results.  Recall that I use lower capacity 2200mAh 18650 cells, and that the FL-1 standard calls for time to 10% output (not 50%, as reported in the graphs above). 

*Potential Issues*

Flat-top cells will not work in the light, due to the physical switching mechanism in the head. I recommend you stick with button-top cells (small and large button top both worked fine in my testing).

You need to keep all contact surfaces in the head clean, or you may experience mode switching problems (especially between first and second levels, also required for auxiliary modes). The limited range between first/second modes makes switching very susceptible to any contact surface issues. Not an issue for regular use, but heavy mode switching may require periodic cleaning.

The light is bit longer than most 1x18650 lights, especially with the flip-top diffuser installed.

Tailcap threads are no longer anodized on Mark II version of the G25C2, so lockout is no longer possible.

*Preliminary Observations*

The G25C2 series is one of main tactical lines produced by Eagletac. Since my original review of the G25C2 last summer, the light has undergone a few (relatively) minor build and user interface updates – now known as the Mark II version. More recently, Eagletac has updated the line with the new crop of XM-L2 emitters. 

As before, there is a lot to like about this series. Output modes are available in sequence by a simple loosening of the head (with the user-configurable choice between a Regular or Tactical mode set). :thumbsup: This is a very intuitive interface, and works well in practice. The "hidden" blinky modes are all still there if you want them, and Eagletac has provided a few more options on the revised Mark II. In general, the interface is more configurable than most lights, with the ability to turn on/off features like the automatic step-down from Turbo, or access to Strobe from off, etc. 

The only potential drawback to this new Mark II build is the lack of tailcap screw thread anodizing now. I suspect this is due to patent issues with another maker, but have no direct knowledge of the matter. :shrug:

Performance-wise, output/runtime efficiency remains top-notch, as you would expect for a current-controlled light. The new XM-L2 emitters typically add at least two output bin levels of higher output – for both Cool White and Neutral White (see my discussion of the bins earlier in this review). It also appears that my Mark II sample is driven harder on max than my original G25C2, which will appeal to many here, I am sure.  Note that overall performance of my XM-L2 U2-equipped G25C2-II seems remarkably similar to the XM-L2 T6-equipped TX25L2.

Physically, I like the G25C2 design – while larger than some lights in this class, it offers greater throw and output in stock form. Knurling is good, and the range of bundled carry options is appreciated. Even the rubber tailstanding attachment is a nice feature, expanding your range of use options.

One of the best features for me remains the excellent aluminum flip-down diffuser/filter assembly. I personally use diffused lights a lot, especially for walking the dog at night. With a traditional beam, I tend to find myself distracted and tracking the hotspot (i.e., the "follow-the-bouncing-ball" effect). With a good diffuser, I can pay proper attention to what my dog is doing, and what is in the local environment. But when you hear a sudden sound off in the distance, a screwed-on style diffuser cover is a handicap to seeing what is going on. So while I may like a good diffuser, I also like having the option of decent throw at a flick of the finger – as this diffuser cover allows. :twothumbs

For me, the G25C2-II remains as one of the top lights in this category. If you prefer a more compact build (while maintaining generally comparable max output and throw), you might want to consider the electronic switch-based TX25L2. Personally though, I find the wider output levels on the G25C2-II more useful, and you can't beat the flip-top diffuser. 

----

G25C2 Mark II was provided by Eagletac for review.


----------



## kj2 (Mar 27, 2013)

Thanks for the great review 
Am wondering too, why the anodizing at the tail is gone


----------



## shelm (Mar 27, 2013)

Great review as always, thanks for your work!! :thumbsup:


----------



## Swede74 (Mar 27, 2013)

kj2 said:


> Thanks for the great review
> Am wondering too, why the anodizing at the tail is gone



I am wondering if this means that all flashlight manufacturers (except the patent owner) that use anodized screw threads for tailcap lockout are committing patent infringement. Before I read this review I would never have thought it was possible to get a patent on something that seems so straightforward and easy to wrap your brain around. Obvious solutions are not so obvious until someone has come up with them though. 

This is probably not the place to discuss patents and lockout features, but for those interested, this might be a good thread to revive. 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?243007-Is-this-a-Surefire-tailcap

Thank you for the review, by the way. A little more challenging than usual - especially at 3:30 AM - but as always a good read.


----------



## holylight (Mar 28, 2013)

*Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMS*

Very versatile and efficient good flashlight. Thanks for the wonderful review.


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 28, 2013)

Thanks everyone, glad you are enjoying the review. 



Swede74 said:


> This is probably not the place to discuss patents and lockout features, but for those interested, this might be a good thread to revive.


Yes, there have been a number of threads about this over the years, including most recently this one on CPFMP. 

Again, I have no knowledge of the issue in this case, and I would ask people to keep any such discussion/speculation to the appropriate threads (and not here). 



> Thank you for the review, by the way. A little more challenging than usual - especially at 3:30 AM - but as always a good read.


Yes, it was a rather long one, wasn't it? :laughing:

Once the XM-L2 become common place, these will probably go a bit faster ....


----------



## topgun.ua (Mar 28, 2013)

Nice review!!! Thanks a lot!

Looks pretty weird that G25C2 MKII beam intencity is even slower than TX25C2, but than I should save some money for a little brother of my MKII (TX2C2).


----------



## lightsource (Mar 28, 2013)

another great review, Thanks


----------



## LuxClark (Apr 3, 2013)

I've been considering this light for a short time now. I think the flip cover really puts it over the top. But I am concerned about the twist control. How easy is it for the head to twist accidentally? For example if it was in a pocket or backpack? And I would think the flip cover hinge would only make this more likely that most other EagleTac lights.

And speaking of the flip cover, how secure is the latch? I assume it may also be difficult to unlatch with gloves.

Mike


----------



## sidecross (Apr 3, 2013)

I think this light is the best one in its catagory; the flip diffuser makes it my personal choice. :thumbsup:


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 3, 2013)

LuxClark said:


> I've been considering this light for a short time now. I think the flip cover really puts it over the top. But I am concerned about the twist control. How easy is it for the head to twist accidentally? For example if it was in a pocket or backpack? And I would think the flip cover hinge would only make this more likely that most other EagleTac lights.


The head twist is reasonably stiff, I don't think you'll have a problem. In any case, you can always verify the position before activation if you are concerned it may have shifted.



> And speaking of the flip cover, how secure is the latch? I assume it may also be difficult to unlatch with gloves.


Most definitely would be hard to use the hatch with gloves. Personally, I never use the latch - the tension in the hinges of my samples have always been great enough to hold the diffuser flap firmly in place on its own.


----------



## sidecross (Apr 3, 2013)

I agree with selfbuilt I do not use lock feature and I have not yet found a condition where the latch needed to be locked. :thumbsup:


----------



## bluemax_1 (Apr 11, 2013)

Since you've reviewed both the G25C2 and Olight M22 XM-L2 lights, is the G25C2's head harder to turn, easier, or about the same? Still considering this light and I've found that I can turn the M22's head one-handed (thumb and forefinger on the body, pinky holding the head). If the stiffness of the head turn is similar, I might get the G25C2 to check it out for myself.


Max


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 11, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> Since you've reviewed both the G25C2 and Olight M22 XM-L2 lights, is the G25C2's head harder to turn, easier, or about the same? Still considering this light and I've found that I can turn the M22's head one-handed (thumb and forefinger on the body, pinky holding the head). If the stiffness of the head turn is similar, I might get the G25C2 to check it out for myself.


Wow, you've got stronger pinkies than me! :laughing:

But in answer to your question, my G25C2-II has less resistance in the head than my M22. And since you don't need to do a loosen-tighten twist on the G25C2-II, you should find it comparatively easier to switch modes on the G25C2 single-handed.


----------



## benhar (Apr 11, 2013)

*Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEA...*

One thing you've mentioned in both this and the original review is the thread sensitivity, and having to keep it cleaned and greased just right. For general home use (i.e. not getting it dirty), do you have to clean it frequently? Or is it good to go once you get it right?

Mine had bad flickering problems until I cleaned the threads. That's fine for what I use this one for, but I now want a dedicated light to keep upstairs, and need it to be low maintenance but reliable. Although I prefer the G25C2 UI, the thread sensitivity may be enough to push me towards an M22 versus getting a second EagleTac. I only fixed the flickering problem this week, so it's too soon for me to tell with mine.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 11, 2013)

*Re: Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEA...*



benhar said:


> One thing you've mentioned in both this and the original review is the thread sensitivity, and having to keep it cleaned and greased just right. For general home use (i.e. not getting it dirty), do you have to clean it frequently? Or is it good to go once you get it right?
> Mine had bad flickering problems until I cleaned the threads. That's fine for what I use this one for, but I now want a dedicated light to keep upstairs, and need it to be low maintenance but reliable.


That's a really good point that I should clarify.

My comment stems from my testing, where I go through a LOT of battery changes and head twisting (i.e., working through the modes repeatedly, etc.). This is a pretty heavy-duty workout with all the tests and runtimes I perform, and I found intermittent contact issues could creep in over time. These were all immediately resolved by a thread and contact surface cleaning in the head.

For regular use, it is not a problem. I've kept my original G25C2 by my back door for over six months, for taking the dog out at night. This light gets used at least once or twice a day, and has gone through a couple of battery changes. And in all that time, I have not had to clearn the threads again. So it is very stable light for light usage over time.


----------



## sidecross (Apr 11, 2013)

*Re: Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEA...*



selfbuilt said:


> That's a really good point that I should clarify.
> 
> My comment stems from my testing, where I go through a LOT of battery changes and head twisting (i.e., working through the modes repeatedly, etc.). This is a pretty heavy-duty workout with all the tests and runtimes I perform, and I found intermittent contact issues could creep in over time. These were all immediately resolved by a thread and contact surface cleaning in the head.
> 
> For regular use, it is not a problem. I've kept my original G25C2 by my back door for over six months, for taking the dog out at night. This light gets used at least once or twice a day, and has gone through a couple of battery changes. And in all that time, I have not had to clearn the threads again. So it is very stable light for light usage over time.



I would agree too with selfbuilt.

I use the G25C2 mainly with the head tight and keep my Eagletac D25LC2 for low, medium and high settings; with both lights I have not had a problem.

I do when I change batteries I clean all threads with Deoxit. :thumbsup:


----------



## benhar (Apr 11, 2013)

*Eagletac G25C2-II (XM-L2, 1x18650 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEA...*

Perfect, thanks! I may have to be boring and buy the same light twice (well, the MkII version).


----------



## bluemax_1 (Apr 11, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Wow, you've got stronger pinkies than me! :laughing:
> 
> But in answer to your question, my G25C2-II has less resistance in the head than my M22. And since you don't need to do a loosen-tighten twist on the G25C2-II, you should find it comparatively easier to switch modes on the G25C2 single-handed.



Sweet, thanks!

*Sigh* I was looking for A new 1x18650 light, and now this will be the 4th LOL.


Max


----------



## kriptikracing (Apr 11, 2013)

Thanks for the awesome review selfbuilt! It was your review that pushed me to buy the G25C2. That flip top diffuser was the icing on the cake...along with the battery extender.


----------



## Chevy-SS (Apr 11, 2013)

God dang nabbit - that is a terrific review! I hope you're getting compensated for these fine editorial pieces. Please keep up the great work. These reviews are much appreciated by everyone that reads them, I'm sure.

Quick question on the strobe - can the light be programmed so that the maximum strobe comes on at the initial button press??

Thanks, Dave F.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 11, 2013)

Chevy-SS said:


> I hope you're getting compensated for these fine editorial pieces.


Just by the appreciation of those who read them. 



> Quick question on the strobe - can the light be programmed so that the maximum strobe comes on at the initial button press??


Yes, but you need to do a double-press of the tailcap to activate strobe (if you have this feature turned on).
_
EDIT: the above is referring to the tactical tailcap strobe feature. You can have the light come on in strobe all the time with a single button press - just have the mode set in the tactical group (100% > 10% > Strobe I > Strobe II), and leave the head in the third or fourth position, for whichever strobe you want._


----------



## Chevy-SS (Apr 12, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Just by the appreciation of those who read them.
> 
> 
> Yes, but you need to do a double-press of the tailcap to activate strobe (if you have this feature turned on).




Yep, much appreciation from the crowd here, that's for sure!!!! 

Too bad about the strobe requiring a double-press. That kills it as a 'defensive strobe'. I'm VERY surprised they don't have some method of setting it up so that strobe comes on with first touch of button.

O well, thanks again for the very fine work! :thumbsup:


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 12, 2013)

Chevy-SS said:


> Too bad about the strobe requiring a double-press. That kills it as a 'defensive strobe'. I'm VERY surprised they don't have some method of setting it up so that strobe comes on with first touch of button.


Sorry, I thought you were just asking about the tactical tailcap strobe feature. There is indeed a way to have it come on in strobe all the time with a single button press - just have the mode set in the tactical group (100% > 10% > Strobe I > Strobe II), and leave the head in the third or fourth position, for whichever strobe you want.


----------



## sidecross (Apr 12, 2013)

I have my G25C2 set up for a rapid double press and click will put the light in strobe.

I do not use strobe, but if I ever want it this is the easiest and fastest light to enter a strobe mode. :thumbsup:


----------



## Chevy-SS (Apr 12, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Sorry, I thought you were just asking about the tactical tailcap strobe feature. There is indeed a way to have it come on in strobe all the time with a single button press - just have the mode set in the tactical group (100% > 10% > Strobe I > Strobe II), and leave the head in the third or fourth position, for whichever strobe you want.



Ahhh, thank you very much! I apologize as I must have asked a confusing question (it's a bad habit I have, LOL).....

Thanks again, you're a real credit to this forum. :wave:


----------



## vingebil (Apr 12, 2013)

Hope they make velcro holsters


----------



## res1cue (Apr 14, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Just by the appreciation of those who read them.
> 
> 
> Yes, but you need to do a double-press of the tailcap to activate strobe (if you have this feature turned on).
> ...



Thanks for the excellent review!

Quick question, is the double-click strobe going to be Strobe I or Strobe II? That is, is it the alternating "disorienting" one or the regular?


----------



## sidecross (Apr 14, 2013)

res1cue said:


> Thanks for the excellent review!
> 
> Quick question, is the double-click strobe going to be Strobe I or Strobe II? That is, is it the alternating "disorienting" one or the regular?



It is set for only the 'regular' strobe for the double click option. :thumbsup:


----------



## res1cue (Apr 14, 2013)

sidecross said:


> It is set for only the 'regular' strobe for the double click option. :thumbsup:



Gotcha. Thanks

Seems silly to have a quick access feature and not have it on the "disorienting" strobe


----------



## sidecross (Apr 14, 2013)

res1cue said:


> Gotcha. Thanks
> 
> Seems silly to have a quick access feature and not have it on the "disorienting" strobe



That may be the reason the light comes from the factory set at 100%, 10%. Strobe 1 & Strobe 2.

I changed the setting 100%, 35%, 6% & 0.6%. This of course is the twist settings of the head.

My only need for a strobe would be for emergency attention.

I do have the option for all the other aux settings including the Strobe ll that you would like. :thumbsup:


----------



## vingebil (Apr 21, 2013)

How can i acces the regular mode?


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 21, 2013)

vingebil said:


> How can i acces the regular mode?


Do you mean the regular constant output modes? If so, from the review:

_There are four output levels controlled by simply loosening or tightening the head (i.e., the four levels are accessed in sequence from head fully tight). There are two possible groups of output modes available - Tactical (100% > 10% > Strobe > Strobe, in sequence) and Regular (100% > 35% > 6% > 0.6%, in sequence). You can switch between the two groups by loosening the head to the second level and rapidly clicking the switch off/on 20 times rapidly in a row._

If you mean how to access the auxillary modes, or turn on the tailcap strobe feature, those are similarly explained the User Interface section of the review (and the manual).


----------



## sidecross (Apr 21, 2013)

sidecross said:


> That may be the reason the light comes from the factory set at 100%, 10%. Strobe 1 & Strobe 2.
> 
> I changed the setting 100%, 35%, 6% & 0.6%. This of course is the twist settings of the head.
> 
> ...



Since buying my Nitecore TM26 I switched my Eagletac back to the default setting of 100%, 10%, Strobe 1 & Strone 2. I carry The G25C2 and the TM26 in my Maxpedition Fat Boy along with other things to get me through a 24 hour or 48 hour from away from home.

I also carry in my side pocket of my Carhartt doublefront work pants my Eagletac D25LC2.

With these lights all together I use the G25C2 with diffuser on high most of the time, saving me from twisting the head needed for various outputs; the G25C2 head design and size make running for extended periods of time on Turbo or High. :thumbsup:


----------



## bluemax_1 (Apr 24, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Wow, you've got stronger pinkies than me! :laughing:
> 
> But in answer to your question, my G25C2-II has less resistance in the head than my M22. And since you don't need to do a loosen-tighten twist on the G25C2-II, you should find it comparatively easier to switch modes on the G25C2 single-handed.


Thanks again for all your replies and of course, the excellent reviews. Just picked up the XM-L2 T6 NW after finding a local dealer who finally got it in stock. Yep, I can switch modes using the 'pinky' method keeping it one-handed. I leave it in the Tactical setting on 'Head Tight' since the angle of rotation required to go through more than 1 mode either way is just too great, reducing the usefulness of the other brightness levels in Regular mode, since I wouldn't be able to go from Low or Med to Turbo one-handed.

In the Regular mode, I'd only be able to switch easily between High and Turbo, and the difference is not great enough to justify it. At least with the Tactical mode, the difference between Turbo and the Low is fairly suited to 'light everything up', or 'don't blind myself up close'.

One thing I have to say is that the configurable double-press strobe is THE most effective implementation of it that I've seen of any light. If the light is Off, two half-presses bring it into strobe mode (and you have the option of either holding the 2nd half press for a momentary strobe, or full clicking the 2nd half press for a continuous On strobe), or alternatively, if you're not sure of your ability to finesse 2 half presses 'in the heat of the moment', 3 full clicks rapidly will trigger the tailswitch strobe mode (all these double press for strobe lights register only the On command, i.e. 2 quick momentary On half-presses register as 2 'On' commands, or 3 full clicks which equate to On-Off-On). 

If the light is On though, the fact that it's On counts as the first On command, so all you have to do is click twice rapidly (registers as an additional Off-On), and it triggers the strobe. The light can have been On for 20 minutes and you can still activate the tailswitch strobe this way (which is AWESOME).

Contrast this to the Olight M22, where it takes 3 rapid 'ON' commands to trigger the strobe, which equate to three rapid half-presses or five full clicks from OFF, or one full click PLUS three half-presses or SIX FULL CLICKS if the light is already ON. What a PITA. Whoever put in the strobe mode on the Olight put it in as an afterthought. There is no way I can reliably trigger it in the heat of the moment. 

Then there's the P25 where you have to double press the electronic side switch AND HOLD IT for a little bit before it activates the strobe. Fine for fooling around, but if I NEED the disorienting strobe, I need it NOW.

Of course, like the Supbeam T10/Thrunite Scorpion, the G25C2-mkII also has the ability to preset the light so pressing the button (partially or fully), turns the light On straight into strobe mode (when it's set for the Tactical Interface). The EagTac isn't perfect, but for my needs it's a pretty great light. Why is the holster SO BIG though? It's SO BIG and yet, it's not big enough to hold the light with the diffuser flipped up. I was hoping to be able to use the light this way, with the diffuser mounted, but in the flipped up position so it's always ready with the standard beam, but if I need diffuse light, then I can just flip the diffuser down. It won't fit in the holster this way though, and there's no way I will carry the light with the diffuser in the down (diffused light) position.

Without the diffuser or the lanyard ring (or tailstand ring) attached, the G25C2-mkII fits in the Olight M22 holster, and that holster is nowhere near as bulky AND those spare 1x18650 holders are genius. 

I'll have to order one of these German holsters though, and see if the G25C2-mkII can be carried in it with the diffuser attached and flipped up.
http://www.lampentroll.de/themes/ka...ategorieid=45&source=2&refertype=1&referid=45


Max


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 24, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> The EagTac isn't perfect, but for my needs it's a pretty great light. Why is the holster SO BIG though? It's SO BIG and yet, it's not big enough to hold the light with the diffuser flipped up. I was hoping to be able to use the light this way, with the diffuser mounted, but in the flipped up position so it's always ready with the standard beam, but if I need diffuse light, then I can just flip the diffuser down. It won't fit in the holster this way though, and there's no way I will carry the light with the diffuser in the down (diffused light) position.
> ...
> I'll have to order one of these German holsters though, and see if the G25C2-mkII can be carried in it with the diffuser attached and flipped up.


Thanks for posting your impressions. The G25C2-II is a good all-around interface and design for a wide range of users. While not necessarily ideal for the strobe-minded tactical crowd, it is certainly better than most of the options in this class (given its configurability).

I also agree about the holster - I find it too bulky for regular use, and it doesn't fit the light with the diffuser cover installed and flipped up. It looks like the light should fit that popular lampentroll holster, but I haven't tried it.


----------



## rickypanecatyl (Apr 30, 2013)

I noticed you measured 5 lumen output levels - 870, 400, 136, 83, 9. The gen 1 just has 4 levels per bank... just wanted to clarify, did they add a level?

Also would anyone here know how hard would it be for a modder to take this light and change the output levels. I really like this light but would really like different output modes such as 870, 400, 50, 5, & .5 so that it could be a more universal light. Any ideas if guys like Milky or Vinny could do that?


----------



## Lurveleven (Apr 30, 2013)

rickypanecatyl said:


> I noticed you measured 5 lumen output levels - 870, 400, 136, 83, 9. The gen 1 just has 4 levels per bank... just wanted to clarify, did they add a level?



The table contains the modes from both the regular mode and the tactical mode.


----------



## selfbuilt (Apr 30, 2013)

rickypanecatyl said:


> I noticed you measured 5 lumen output levels - 870, 400, 136, 83, 9. The gen 1 just has 4 levels per bank... just wanted to clarify, did they add a level?





Lurveleven said:


> The table contains the modes from both the regular mode and the tactical mode.


That's right. The four modes in the Regular set are the 100% / 35% / 6% / 0.6% values. The four modes in the tactical set are 100% / 10% / Strobe / Strobe.


----------



## sidecross (Apr 30, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> Thanks again for all your replies and of course, the excellent reviews. Just picked up the XM-L2 T6 NW after finding a local dealer who finally got it in stock. Yep, I can switch modes using the 'pinky' method keeping it one-handed. I leave it in the Tactical setting on 'Head Tight' since the angle of rotation required to go through more than 1 mode either way is just too great, reducing the usefulness of the other brightness levels in Regular mode, since I wouldn't be able to go from Low or Med to Turbo one-handed.
> 
> In the Regular mode, I'd only be able to switch easily between High and Turbo, and the difference is not great enough to justify it. At least with the Tactical mode, the difference between Turbo and the Low is fairly suited to 'light everything up', or 'don't blind myself up close'.
> 
> ...



Max Please let us know if the German version works with the head down and diffuser on.

Also if it can be found in the USA.

Thank you. :thumbsup:


----------



## fitzpgb (Apr 30, 2013)

sidecross said:


> Max Please let us know if the German version works with the head down and diffuser on.
> 
> Also if it can be found in the USA.
> 
> Thank you. :thumbsup:




Thanks to selfbuilt for the great review and all the inputs with bluemax, sidecross and others. :thumbsup:

I too am interested in the G25C MKII with the LHU-14-43mm holster, but with a red flip-up filter. The LHU-14 holster and a wide variety of variations of the holster are made by Euro Security Products in the Czech Republic - (English but slow website) http://www.euro-security.info/euro-security.info/en/holders-a-holsters/63-pro-takticke-svitilny Their distributor in the US is Triple K Brand out of San Diego - http://www.triplek.com/Contact+Us/id/33/ I don't see the holster on their website, but have not called them yet. You can get it from the German distributor that bluemax listed above - lampentroll. +$10 euro shipping.

How easy/quick can you flip open the filter on the G25C2-II, without the latch being engaged? Does it stay open? Spring loaded? If so, how does it stay closed without the latch engaged?

As an alternative, I'm searching for a 40mm (Head dia of the G25C MKII or ArmyTek Predator) red flip-up filter. Quake Industries Bushwacker Optics covers (size 4) would work (http://www.trgear.com/osc/eshop/bushwhacker_combined.pdf), but can't seem to find these red flip-up filters anymore. I also don't know how robust they are. I have used similar type filter (fixed) on my Fenix TK15, but they are not robust. The will crack if dropped, bang into something or become loose with frequent on/off use. Another alternative is the Surefire FM15 1.62" (41mm) red filter. It has a clamp mechanism to secure it to a M3, 9AN and flip release tab that is spring loaded. But as usual they want a small fortune for it $75!!! Anyone got experience with any of these flip-up filters or can you suggest an alternative or source? 

I also need to make up my mind between the G25C-II and the ArmyTek Predator. Spoiled for choice. I know, get both!! 

Superb forum. A newbie.


----------



## bluemax_1 (May 1, 2013)

fitzpgb said:


> How easy/quick can you flip open the filter on the G25C2-II, without the latch being engaged? Does it stay open? Spring loaded? If so, how does it stay closed without the latch engaged?


The flip up assembly has a screw through the hinge that is fairly tight. That's how it stays in place when closed or open. That also means that opening it one-handed might not be the quickest/easiest (especially drawing the light with your thumb on the button). That's the main reason I'd like the ability to carry the light in the bezel down position with the diffuser in the flipped up position. If I need diffused light, I have the time to flip the diffuser down using both hands, but I may not (very likely) have the time (or extra hand free) to flip the diffuser up and out of the way.


Max


----------



## sidecross (May 1, 2013)

fitzpgb said:


> Thanks to selfbuilt for the great review and all the inputs with bluemax, sidecross and others. :thumbsup:
> 
> I too am interested in the G25C MKII with the LHU-14-43mm holster, but with a red flip-up filter. The LHU-14 holster and a wide variety of variations of the holster are made by Euro Security Products in the Czech Republic - (English but slow website) http://www.euro-security.info/euro-security.info/en/holders-a-holsters/63-pro-takticke-svitilny Their distributor in the US is Triple K Brand out of San Diego - http://www.triplek.com/Contact+Us/id/33/ I don't see the holster on their website, but have not called them yet. You can get it from the German distributor that bluemax listed above - lampentroll. +$10 euro shipping.
> 
> ...



The flip up diffuser can be tightened with a hex screw at the hinge of the filter cover and body. The filter itself is threaded to the light head after removing the stock bezel.


----------



## fitzpgb (May 1, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> The flip up assembly has a screw through the hinge that is fairly tight. That's how it stays in place when closed or open. That also means that opening it one-handed might not be the quickest/easiest (especially drawing the light with your thumb on the button). That's the main reason I'd like the ability to carry the light in the bezel down position with the diffuser in the flipped up position. If I need diffused light, I have the time to flip the diffuser down using both hands, but I may not (very likely) have the time (or extra hand free) to flip the diffuser up and out of the way.
> 
> 
> Max



Thanks Max. I agree that the default holster position needs to be with the filter open. It's the only safe and fast option for situations requiring quick one-handed flashlight action/reaction. 

Did you make a decision between the Eagletac G25C2-II and the ArmyTek predator?


----------



## selfbuilt (May 1, 2013)

sidecross said:


> The flip up diffuser can be tightened with a hex screw at the hinge of the filter cover and body. The filter itself is threaded to the light head after removing the stock bezel.


Yes. I have not tried to adjust mine, but as a general rule, Eagletac ships these fairly tight (i.e., stiff, and potentially hard to easily flip single-handed). You can adjust that, but it is really the tension that helps keep it from moving inadvertently.


----------



## sidecross (May 1, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes. I have not tried to adjust mine, but as a general rule, Eagletac ships these fairly tight (i.e., stiff, and potentially hard to easily flip single-handed). You can adjust that, but it is really the tension that helps keep it from moving inadvertently.



I really liked that Eagletac engineered the hinge to be adjustable instead of the cheaper use of plain hinge.
This is another reason why I am very pleased with G25C2 and G25C2 MKll, and is a quality light and among the best in my view of this category of light. :thumbsup:


----------



## picard (May 2, 2013)

how far does the light throw?


----------



## fitzpgb (May 2, 2013)

picard said:


> how far does the light throw?



Beam Distance (U2 version): 323 yards / 295 meters


----------



## rickypanecatyl (May 3, 2013)

Any thoughts on how easy it would be for one of the custom modders on this site to change the lower output levels? Would it be possible for one of them to make low a firefly mode?


----------



## fitzpgb (May 6, 2013)

sidecross said:


> The flip up diffuser can be tightened with a hex screw at the hinge of the filter cover and body. The filter itself is threaded to the light head after removing the stock bezel.



Sidecross,


I tried to find a distributor in the US. The one listed on the manufacturer's (ESP in Czech Republic) website is Triple K Brand in San Diego, but after a couple of messages and emails got no response. Nothing on their website either. I contact the Manufacturer directly and they state they do not have another distributor in the US, but would sell directly! Details below - but looks like the minimum order is 5, but good prices (Page 38 of the price list) for those that want to order in bulk!!

Thank you for your email. 

Rule #12. Reposting Private Communications, email deleted - Norm


----------



## sidecross (May 7, 2013)

Dealer info removed.

I buy all my Eagletac lights and batteries from http://www.eagletac-usa.com/


----------



## fitzpgb (May 7, 2013)

sidecross said:


> I buy all my Eagletac lights and batteries from http://www.eagletac-usa.com/



Thanks, but the information I provided was for the holster.


----------



## sidecross (May 7, 2013)

fitzpgb said:


> Thanks, but the information I provided was for the holster.



Thank you for correcting my post.


----------



## Bullzeyebill (May 7, 2013)

I removed dealer info from two posts, one a quote of it. This is a discussion thread and dealers are not to post their products here. 

Bill


----------



## IsraelOutdoor (May 10, 2013)

In your opinion? which flashlight is better? the Olight M22 or the Eagletac G25C2 MK-II? Which flashlight (M22 or G25C2 MK-II) have faster and easier access to the strobe? it's very important for me.
thanks advance =)


----------



## selfbuilt (May 10, 2013)

IsraelOutdoor said:


> In your opinion? which flashlight is better? the Olight M22 or the Eagletac G25C2 MK-II? Which flashlight (M22 or G25C2 MK-II) have faster and easier access to the strobe? it's very important for me.
> thanks advance =)


Sorry, "better" is a categorization that I try to avoid. In terms of your question of strobe, I would say the G25c2 has faster access depending on how you have it configured. As always, I suggest you choose between the lights based on your preferred user interface.


----------



## bluemax_1 (May 10, 2013)

IsraelOutdoor said:


> In your opinion? which flashlight is better? the Olight M22 or the Eagletac G25C2 MK-II? Which flashlight (M22 or G25C2 MK-II) have faster and easier access to the strobe? it's very important for me.
> thanks advance =)


I've had both and I went with the G25C2-mkII.

- The mkII used in Tactical mode can be set so it turns on in strobe mode when you press the button. This also allows you to have a momentary On strobe function
- You can also program the mkII to switch to strobe from any other mode (like Low or Turbo) with a double On press.

With ALL these mechanical forward clicky switch lights, when they say you need a double or triple press to switch modes, they mean ON inputs and not clicks. The difference is important. With a mechanical forward clicky switch, you can half press the switch for momentary On, or fully click the switch for constant On, so the double press (or triple press with the M22) means 2 half presses (2 momentary On commands) to trigger strobe mode when the light is Off. 2 FULL clicks though, registers as 1 On input and 1 Off input.

Here's the key difference between the 2 lights as far as accessing the strobe mode:

The M22 requires 3 rapidly performed On inputs to trigger strobe mode and this is the ONLY way to trigger the strobe mode. When the light is already ON, you have to full click to turn the light Off, THEN either half press the button 3 times quickly to trigger the strobe mode (total of 4 presses, 1 full click OFF followed by 3 half presses On-On-On. you can either hold the last half press for momentary Strobe, or full click to keep the Strobe mode On), OR you can full click Off and then full click the button FIVE more times (for a total of 6 clicks. OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON = 3 On inputs). If you mess up and happen to full click when you're trying the half press method (or half press when you're trying the full click method), this changes the number of presses/clicks required to trigger strobe mode (since only ON inputs count), and I can tell you that under stress and with the rush of adrenaline, it's difficult to adjust thumb pressure from the full click needed to turn the light Off, to half presses to trigger the strobe quickly. If you miss it (too many or too few presses/clicks), you need to start all over again, to get 3 rapid On inputs in a row.

The mkII's tailswitch Strobe feature (when activated) requires 2 On inputs to trigger the Strobe mode. When the light is Off (and if it's set to one of the constant brightness modes), that means you can either use 2 half presses or 3 full clicks (On-Off-On) to trigger Strobe mode. When the light is already in a constant ON mode (say, set to High brightness), to trigger strobe mode on the mkII with the double press strobe feature activated (read the manual to see how this is done), you full click turning the light Off and then use 2 half-presses, or full click Off followed by 3 full clicks. 

Be aware though, that the G25C2-mkII's tailswitch strobe feature is a little inconsistent. If the light has been Off for more than a couple of minutes or so (estimated), i.e. it's been in the holster for a while, the description above is how the tailswitch Strobe is triggered. If the light has recently been turned On and Off though, and it's now On again in a constant brightness mode, it only takes 1 additional On input to trigger the strobe, i.e. if it's been turned On and Off within the last couple of minutes and is now turned On again, you only need to turn the light Off and On again to trigger the tailswitch Strobe mode. This odd difference in triggering the G25C2's tailswitch Strobe will happen if the light has been turned On and Off within the last couple of minutes and then turned On again, even if the light has now been constantly On for several minutes. 

This odd variability in how the mkII's tailswitch Strobe mode is activated can make it a little difficult for consistency in reliably triggering the Strobe mode via the tailswitch. The upside is that because it only takes 2 On inputs to trigger the tailswitch strobe mode, if you miss it the first time (whether you did one too many, or one too few On commands), it only takes 1 more ON command to trigger the Strobe. In addition, there is a workaround to force consistency in how the mkII's tailswitch Strobe is triggered. As mentioned, if you turn the light On and Off, then turn it On again within a couple of minutes, even if the light is then left On for 30+ minutes (just tested this) the mkII now considers this On position as 1 of the On inputs for the tailswitch strobe, meaning that all you have to do is 1 full click to turn the light Off followed by 1 On input (with either a half press or full click) to trigger the Strobe. I've trained myself to always flash the light On once before turning it On in a constant brightness mode. That way, I always only need 2 full clicks to trigger the Strobe when the light is already On in a constant brightness mode.

So to recap, with the M22, if the light is OFF, you either need 3 half presses OR 5 full clicks to turn on Strobe mode. If the light is already ON, you need 1 full click FOLLOWED by 3 half presses or 5 full clicks. If you mess up with 1 too many or 1 too few presses or clicks, by the time you realize that the light hasn't triggered the Strobe mode, you need to start all over again to get 3 quick On activations in a row. I can tell you that under high stress, I can't reliably trigger the strobe mode on the M22.

If quick access to Strobe mode is important to you, there's really no contest in my mind, get the G25C2-mkII and use the Tactical interface and make sure you always set the head to position 3 or 4 before putting the light in the holster so it will ALWAYS come on in Strobe mode. The M22's method of accessing Strobe mode makes it useless except for playing around when you don't really absolutely NEED strobe mode and it doesn't matter if you accidentally miss triggering the Strobe the first few times, because it's not an emergency. If you might need to quickly switch to Strobe mode from a constant brightness mode on the G25C2-mkII with one hand, you need to practice and familiarize yourself with the tailswitch strobe operation to trigger it reliably.

The mkII's ability to set the light to Tactical mode/interface and then turn the head and set the light so it will always trigger the Strobe when you hit the button is optimal, but the method of activating the Strobe using the tailswitch is still better than the M22's. In addition, if you choose to use the mkII's Regular interface, you then have 4 brightness levels as opposed to the M22's 3 brightness levels AND you can pre-select the mkII's brightness level (or a Strobe mode if you're using the Tactical interface) before turning the flashlight ON. With the M22, it memorizes the last brightness level used and will turn On to that mode, i.e. if you had the M22 in Turbo the last time you turned it Off, and want Low, it will turn On in Turbo, then you have to loosen and tighten the head to get Low. If you left it in Low mode when you turned it Off and want Turbo brightness, it will turn On in Low mode, and you now have to loosen and tighten the head TWICE to get Turbo brightness. 

The mkII's diffuser is also very nice with the flip-up/flip-down ability. The only 2 advantages the M22 had over the mkII for me were, 1) the M22 is shorter, but the mkII isn't ridiculously long anyway, 2) the M22 has a better holster. The mkII holster is unnecessarily bulky for what it is. The M22 holster is quite a bit smaller and the ability to hold 2 spare 18650 batteries is great. I actually use the G25C2-mkII with an M22 holster (the mkII will only fit easily in the M22 holster if you remove the lanyard ring and do not use the tailstand ring or diffuser).


Max


----------



## IsraelOutdoor (May 11, 2013)

Thank you very vey much Max, you help me a lot. :thumbsup:


----------



## sidecross (May 11, 2013)

IsraelOutdoor said:


> Thank you very vey much Max, you help me a lot. :thumbsup:



Max's post is excellent. I have four Eagletac G25C2’s; two are the newer G25C2 MKll.


----------



## james22 (May 13, 2013)

Excellent review. As always, it's wonderful to have this kind of research available for free. I edc my g25c2mk2 and love it but i was very disappointed the other day when water got into the head section. I figured I'd warn people since it really matters to me. I was no deeper than 6 feet in the ocean and when I got home, it was stuck on high. Upon inspection it had a little water between the battery compartment and the head. I've never had a light that couldn't handle that kind of submersion. Everything else about the light seems excellent. I did turn it from low to high and back to low again after submerging it, so I understand that loosening the threads again after it's been submerged moves surfaces which had been wet across to the other side of the o-ring, relying on the o-ring to squeegy the water off as it moves but I thought that was something we can rely on working for an ipx8 light. 

on a side note, the reason for all this was that my dumb a## dropped my backpack, which I refuse to part with, off of the end of a pier at 1:30 am and had to go in after it. I climbed down until I was hanging from the lowest beam and my feet were only about six feet above the water so I didn't go too far below the surface when I entered the water. I had a fenix, a surefire and the nitecore tm15 in the backpack but they're all fine, as expected.


----------



## sidecross (May 13, 2013)

james22 said:


> Excellent review. As always, it's wonderful to have this kind of research available for free. I edc my g25c2mk2 and love it but i was very disappointed the other day when water got into the head section. I figured I'd warn people since it really matters to me. I was no deeper than 6 feet in the ocean and when I got home, it was stuck on high. Upon inspection it had a little water between the battery compartment and the head. I've never had a light that couldn't handle that kind of submersion. Everything else about the light seems excellent. I did turn it from low to high and back to low again after submerging it, so I understand that loosening the threads again after it's been submerged moves surfaces which had been wet across to the other side of the o-ring, relying on the o-ring to squeegy the water off as it moves but I thought that was something we can rely on working for an ipx8 light.
> 
> on a side note, the reason for all this was that my dumb a## dropped my backpack, which I refuse to part with, off of the end of a pier at 1:30 am and had to go in after it. I climbed down until I was hanging from the lowest beam and my feet were only about six feet above the water so I didn't go too far below the surface when I entered the water. I had a fenix, a surefire and the nitecore tm15 in the backpack but they're all fine, as expected.



Thank you for your input about the head twists being a potential weakness using the G25C2 & MKll around water. :thumbsup:


----------



## selfbuilt (May 13, 2013)

james22 said:


> I did turn it from low to high and back to low again after submerging it, so I understand that loosening the threads again after it's been submerged moves surfaces which had been wet across to the other side of the o-ring, relying on the o-ring to squeegy the water off as it moves but I thought that was something we can rely on working for an ipx8 light.


This is indeed the likely source of your water ingress issue. 

I realize that most would expect IPX8-rating to cover this, but it does not. IPX8 simply means that the light can handle some depth (>1m) for some period (specified by the manufacturer). It also doesn't necessarily mean that no water can enter (i.e. the minimum spec is that no amount of water enters that can produce a harmful effect on functioning). Even the more stringent ANSI FL-1 standard of "submersible" (and I'm not sure if Eagletac meets this), allows ingress of water as long is doesn't happen in any area that contains unprotected electrical components or the emitter. 

But in any case, neither standard involves actually having the light on and in use during testing. Even the more stringent ANSI FL-1 testing is done by testing with a battery installed _but the light off_. The light functiong is only tested after the test.

I think it's generally appreciated that head-twists or switch-clicks can result in water ingress ... this is likely why none of the testing standards use that level of stringency (except for dive lights, of course). 

But it's an important issue for people to be aware of, so thanks for sharing your direct experience. Realistically, I don't imagine the G25C2 is any more or less resistant to water ingress than comparable lights, if actually used underwater.


----------



## sidecross (May 13, 2013)

I would agree with selfbuilt on this issue. My Eagletac G25C2’s are used in high mode and even if I changed the setting it is always put back in tight head position.
My Eagletac D25LC2 is used mostly with loose head adjustments, but now I make sure this light is always reset to tight head when done.


----------



## Lurveleven (May 15, 2013)

Selfbuilt, does the flip up diffuser from the G25C2 fit on the GX25L2?


----------



## selfbuilt (May 15, 2013)

Lurveleven said:


> Selfbuilt, does the flip up diffuser from the G25C2 fit on the GX25L2?


Yes, actually it does. The diameter and threading is identical - they are the same diffuser covers.


----------



## Lurveleven (May 15, 2013)

Thank you, that was what I was hoping for. I have a G25C2 with kit, but will also get a GX25L2, and now I don't need to buy a kit for it.


----------



## Fulaeetoy (May 16, 2013)

Any preflash issues on this one? Some users experienced this on tx25c2. 

| Sent from GT-P6800 using Tapatalk HD |


----------



## Lurveleven (May 16, 2013)

Fulaeetoy said:


> Any preflash issues on this one? Some users experienced this on tx25c2.



Not on mine, but I have it on my MX25L2.


----------



## LuxClark (May 16, 2013)

Fulaeetoy said:


> Any preflash issues on this one? Some users experienced this on tx25c2.
> 
> | Sent from GT-P6800 using Tapatalk HD |



I did in the lowest setting after about a month. All the others are still fine. I considered going to Eagletac but, for one, I got the impression they don't do much for that. But also, since the low is not a moonlight mode, it really doesn't affect it's use.


----------



## joelbnyc (May 18, 2013)

I just went with the G25C2 XML2 over the TX25. Partially bec lightjunction who has the 12% off promo code had the XML2 U2 version of the G25 in stock and not the TX at the time I ordered.

Also bec absolute smallest size isn't critical as this is to be my in-bag edc.

I'm not super worried abt the values here showing the TX25 being slightly brighter in some measurements than the G25. Altho I do generally want the brightest, smallest, most efficient, best-made light for my $, I coud barely discern the diff btwn turbo and high on my D25LC2.


----------



## MichaelAng (Jul 14, 2013)

Hi,

I just got this light recently. I found that there is very little visible difference in brightness between High and Turbo although Turbo was supposed to be double the brightness.

I tried this on a fully recharged battery. Maybe I am missing something or just gotten myself a lemon.

Any idea?

Thanks


----------



## oKtosiTe (Jul 15, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just got this light recently. I found that there is very little visible difference in brightness between High and Turbo although Turbo was supposed to be double the brightness.
> 
> ...



It is often claimed here that 100% lumen increase equals about 40% visible amount of light increase.
Not saying that's my experience (it's not), but it _is_​ often claimed here.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Jul 15, 2013)

2 things:

1) even if the battery is new, make sure it can handle the current draw of the Turbo mode. What battery did you use? I don't know about the XXXXFire batteries but many of them have far poorer performance than spec'ed. KeepPower, Orbtronic, Eagletac, Int'l-Outdoor all have good batteries.

2) the whole '300-400% more lumens to be perceptually twice as bright' seems to hold true at the very bright end of the scale. At lower lumens, I personally see brightness differences more apparently. At the high end though, my eyes begin 'stopping down' to compensate for the brightness. I see the same thing when switching from the Nitecore TM26's 1700 lumen mode to 3500 lumens. It seems to only get a little brighter. It's when I test the throw for distant objects that I see how much difference it makes.


Max


----------



## MichaelAng (Jul 15, 2013)

I using the AW battery. Eyes do adjust quickly. I was expecting Doyle he lumen to be very much better than high


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 15, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> I just got this light recently. I found that there is very little visible difference in brightness between High and Turbo although Turbo was supposed to be double the brightness.





oKtosiTe said:


> It is often claimed here that 100% lumen increase equals about 40% visible amount of light increase.
> Not saying that's my experience (it's not), but it _is_​ often claimed here.





bluemax_1 said:


> It's when I test the throw for distant objects that I see how much difference it makes.


I agree with double-checking with another battery (or 2xCR123A or 2xRCR), to rule out a battery issue.

But in fact, for non-point sources of light (i.e. greater than 5 degree arc), modern perception research indicates that a cube root power relationship best matches our relative perceptions. So, if you were to do a ceiling bounce with the light in a dark room, the more-than-double output of Turbo (from Hi) would only be expected to seem ~30% brighter to you.

However, as bluemax_1 points out, that changes when you look off into the distance. As you narrow the field of vision, the relative preceptual power relationship changes. Taken to an extreme - for a point source of a light - it is actually close to a square root (i.e., the more-than-double output could now seem ~50% brighter to you).


----------



## MichaelAng (Jul 17, 2013)

Hi,

I think i found the problem! The AW battery only rated at 3.6v instead of 3.7v. That could be the cause..
I have another spare batttery that is rated 3.7v but it's not lithium magnesium instead of lithium ion. Is it safe to use?

Thanks


----------



## oKtosiTe (Jul 17, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> But in fact, for non-point sources of light (i.e. greater than 5 degree arc), modern perception research indicates that a cube root power relationship best matches our relative perceptions. So, if you were to do a ceiling bounce with the light in a dark room, the more-than-double output of Turbo (from Hi) would only be expected to seem ~30% brighter to you.
> 
> However, as bluemax_1 points out, that changes when you look off into the distance. As you narrow the field of vision, the relative preceptual power relationship changes. Taken to an extreme - for a point source of a light - it is actually close to a square root (i.e., the more-than-double output could now seem ~50% brighter to you).



I think my perception is different because I suffer from severe nightblindness and, according to medical testing, I have thin retinae. To me, double the lumens really seems like close to double the light. :thinking:


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 17, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> I think i found the problem! The AW battery only rated at 3.6v instead of 3.7v. That could be the cause..
> I have another spare batttery that is rated 3.7v but it's not lithium magnesium instead of lithium ion. Is it safe to use?


I believe AW rates his 2900mAh cells (LiNiCoO2 chemistry) as 3.6V nominal. I am not sure how different those are are from typical 3.7V Li-ion (which are typically LiCoO2 chemistry, also known as ICR). I've never heard of "lithium magnesium" - do you mean Lithum Manganese (i.e., LiMn2O4, better known as IMR)? If so, they are typically rated 3.7V nominal, just like standard ICR Li-ion. Any of the above should work fine, but it's possible you have a poorly-performing individual cell.



oKtosiTe said:


> I think my perception is different because I suffer from severe nightblindness and, according to medical testing, I have thin retinae. To me, double the lumens really seems like close to double the light. :thinking:


That could certainly do it. The cube-root and square-root determinations are based on multiple independent research groups doing standardized testing on a range of volunteers. I don't have any data about how variable individual responses were, but the overall means were quite reproducible across studies. In other words, the "average" human response is pretty close to those numbers, but I don't know off-hand what the variability is between individuals. It stands to reason the range could be significant.


----------



## MichaelAng (Jul 17, 2013)

Hi Selfbuilt,

I tested with my LiMn204 yesterday rated at 3.7V fully charged at 4.3V and found that now i can see a significant difference in brightness. This light does not seem to like 3.6V batteries even on full charge.



selfbuilt said:


> I believe AW rates his 2900mAh cells (LiNiCoO2 chemistry) as 3.6V nominal. I am not sure how different those are are from typical 3.7V Li-ion (which are typically LiCoO2 chemistry, also known as ICR). I've never heard of "lithium magnesium" - do you mean Lithum Manganese (i.e., LiMn2O4, better known as IMR)? If so, they are typically rated 3.7V nominal, just like standard ICR Li-ion. Any of the above should work fine, but it's possible you have a poorly-performing individual cell.
> 
> 
> That could certainly do it. The cube-root and square-root determinations are based on multiple independent research groups doing standardized testing on a range of volunteers. I don't have any data about how variable individual responses were, but the overall means were quite reproducible across studies. In other words, the "average" human response is pretty close to those numbers, but I don't know off-hand what the variability is between individuals. It stands to reason the range could be significant.


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 18, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> I tested with my LiMn204 yesterday rated at 3.7V fully charged at 4.3V and found that now i can see a significant difference in brightness. This light does not seem to like 3.6V batteries even on full charge.


I'm glad to hear you had a better result. But aword of a caution: 3.7V nominal Li-ions should NOT be charged to 4.3V. A typical charger should charge to no higher than ~4.24V (and even lower is better). Check in with the experts in the batteries forum for more details (i.e. 4.3V will shorten the life of your cells considerably). I would personally invest in a new charger if mine were charging that high.


----------



## MichaelAng (Jul 19, 2013)

Hi,

Just wondering why my AW rated at 3.6V would properly powerup the turbo of my light? If I charge it further, do you think it will work?


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 19, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> Just wondering why my AW rated at 3.6V would properly powerup the turbo of my light? If I charge it further, do you think it will work?


"3.6V" is just the nominal rating (i.e., average voltage). AFAIK, those cells charge to 4.2V fully charged like all the "3.7V" nominal AW batteries. There should be no difference when the cells are fully charged, unless there is an issue/damage to a particular clel.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Jul 19, 2013)

MichaelAng said:


> Hi Selfbuilt,
> 
> I tested with my LiMn204 yesterday rated at 3.7V fully charged at 4.3V and found that now i can see a significant difference in brightness. This light does not seem to like 3.6V batteries even on full charge.





selfbuilt said:


> "3.6V" is just the nominal rating (i.e., average voltage). AFAIK, those cells charge to 4.2V fully charged like all the "3.7V" nominal AW batteries. There should be no difference when the cells are fully charged, unless there is an issue/damage to a particular clel.



^ Yep.

If you tried both batteries when they were charged and the resting voltage was at least 3.6v on both, then it sounds like the one battery is unable to provide the current demands required in High mode. Time to retire that battery.


Max


----------



## liquidwater (Jul 22, 2013)

im surprised that the gx25a3 out throws the g25c2 xml2 0_0


----------



## kj2 (Jul 22, 2013)

liquidwater said:


> im surprised that the gx25a3 out throws the g25c2 xml2 0_0


G25C2 MKII XM-L2; 

Beam distance: 323 yards / 295 meters
Center lux: 21,800 lux
GX25A3 XM-L2;


Beam distance: 311 yards / 284 meters
Center lux: 20,100 lux

I see that Selfbuilt has different numbers, but I don't expect that Eagletac will under rated the A3 by that much.


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 22, 2013)

liquidwater said:


> im surprised that the gx25a3 out throws the g25c2 xml2 0_0


To help you compare:










Part of it is simply that my GX25A3 (on 3xAA) is driven a bit hard on max than my G25C2-II (on 1x18650). But it also appears to me that the reflectors are shaped slightly differently, and the GX25A3 has a smaller (and more tightly defined hotspot) than my G25C2-II. You can't really see that in the up-close beamshots above, but it is apparent to me at a distance in real life.

Finally, keep in mind that it's really best to compare the relative throw of lights on their beam distance measures (in meters), and not their beam intensity (in cd). By that measure, my GX25A3 only out-throws my G25C2-II by a little over 10%.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Aug 5, 2013)

This looks like it would be a great duty light. I think I am going to have to order one in neutral white for my duty belt. Thanks for the detailed review, selfbuilt. Eagletac seems to be on a roll with some great designs and I love how they always offer neutral white versions of all their models! Go Eagletac, this will be my 4th Eagletac purchase in the last 2 months!


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 5, 2013)

Mr. Tone said:


> This looks like it would be a great duty light. I think I am going to have to order one in neutral white for my duty belt. Thanks for the detailed review, selfbuilt. Eagletac seems to be on a roll with some great designs and I love how they always offer neutral white versions of all their models! Go Eagletac, this will be my 4th Eagletac purchase in the last 2 months!


I have a neutral version of the original G25C2, and it's nice a tint.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Aug 6, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> I have a neutral version of the original G25C2, and it's nice a tint.



That's nice to know about the tint. Once Illuminationgear has this back in stock for the neutral white I am buying it. Thanks again for the great review.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Aug 6, 2013)

Mr. Tone said:


> That's nice to know about the tint. Once Illuminationgear has this back in stock for the neutral white I am buying it. Thanks again for the great review.



Yep, been carrying my NW mkII for a few months now. Aside from when I first cleaned it and put Deoxit Gold on the spring pins in the head, causing the light to jam on strobe mode in any position other than head tight (which produces maximum brightness), the light's been great.

After I cleaned off the spring pins with alcohol, the problem hasn't resurfaced.

I also use oil instead of grease on the head threads as this makes the head easier to turn to change modes. This allows me to operate the light and change modes one-handed with a reverse grip (thumb on tailswitch). With the oil (I use a combo of Nano oil and Super Lube oil), I can hold the head with my pinky and turn the body with just my thumb and forefinger. With grease, I needed the thumb and 2 fingers.


Max


----------



## Mr. Tone (Aug 6, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> Yep, been carrying my NW mkII for a few months now. Aside from when I first cleaned it and put Deoxit Gold on the spring pins in the head, causing the light to jam on strobe mode in any position other than head tight (which produces maximum brightness), the light's been great.
> 
> After I cleaned off the spring pins with alcohol, the problem hasn't resurfaced.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the tip, I will keep this in mind. I have been carrying a neutral white Lumintop TD15X for several years in a Bianchi Accumold Mk3 pepper spray holster. It is a great light but the one thing that has kept me wanting something else was that I needed to have the light on and do the head-twist to get to low and change outputs. Another thing is that Lumintop offered neutral white which is non-negotiable for me. I need colors to look natural for what should be obvious reasons. 

The Eagletac UI will give me the same confidence in knowing that when the head is tight it will always come on in max brightness and only that. That is very important to me and the reason I went with the Lumintop, no surprises. However, with the Eagletac that fact that I will be able to go to the lowest mode before I turn the light on will help me when I need to preserve night vision or be more stealthy.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Aug 12, 2013)

I received the neutral white version of this light today. I like it a lot. The tint, output, and UI are really great. In addition, the ergonomics are very comfortable in my hand. I am looking forward to putting this on my duty belt now. Again, thanks for the great review which helped me to know this was the right choice for me.


----------



## BIGREK (Aug 12, 2013)

Thanks for the hard work put in on this review. I had been trying to decide on which of those lights I was going to purchase for a couple of months. My primary light took a dive and is having some issues and I needed to new one for duty use. I think, based on this review, I will be taking a shot and buying this one.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Aug 13, 2013)

BIGREK said:


> Thanks for the hard work put in on this review. I had been trying to decide on which of those lights I was going to purchase for a couple of months. My primary light took a dive and is having some issues and I needed to new one for duty use. I think, based on this review, I will be taking a shot and buying this one.



FYI, the light comes configured with 2 of the head loosened states as strobes. It was pretty easy to switch the program so that the four modes are all constant light outputs. The holster that comes with the light is a similar style to the Bianchi Accumold holsters with the nylon look and pre-shaped. I will be taking it out on duty tonight for the first time. I tested it out a lot last night at home and I am very happy with this light. The throw is pretty impressive and the amount of lumens coming out is significant. The sidespill has a decent amount of throw.


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 13, 2013)

BIGREK said:


> Thanks for the hard work put in on this review. I had been trying to decide on which of those lights I was going to purchase for a couple of months. My primary light took a dive and is having some issues and I needed to new one for duty use. I think, based on this review, I will be taking a shot and buying this one.


It is a good choice. And as Mr. Tone said, you may want to switch it to general mode set (if it comes configured for tactical mode set). The instructions explain it all.

And :welcome:


----------



## whc (Aug 18, 2013)

Nice review thanks. Have one on on the way .

One question though, is it possible to open up the head, and get into the LED for easy mod/upgrade in the future?


----------



## selfbuilt (Aug 18, 2013)

whc said:


> One question though, is it possible to open up the head, and get into the LED for easy mod/upgrade in the future?


I haven't tried, so don't know how easy it is to access the pill


----------



## bluemax_1 (Aug 18, 2013)

whc said:


> Nice review thanks. Have one on on the way .
> 
> One question though, is it possible to open up the head, and get into the LED for easy mod/upgrade in the future?


Other owners have told me that the G25C2 series emitters are not difficult to swap (a guy who has 4 of them, mkII and mkI). I took this as great news since I like the interface, and it'll be far easier to just swap in the latest and greatest emitter as opposed to looking for a whole new flashlight.


Max


----------



## whc (Aug 18, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> I haven't tried, so don't know how easy it is to access the pill



Is it possible you can try to disassembly the head, maybe it is just crewed together, big question is just if it is glued together or not.


----------



## whc (Aug 18, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> Other owners have told me that the G25C2 series emitters are not difficult to swap (a guy who has 4 of them, mkII and mkI). I took this as great news since I like the interface, and it'll be far easier to just swap in the latest and greatest emitter as opposed to looking for a whole new flashlight.
> 
> 
> Max



Sounds good, exactly just swap out the LED is easier and cheaper than going for a new light when a new emitter comes to marked. Have changed the emitter on almost all my flashlights, mostly because I did not like the tint of the stock emitter, like them a little warmer than natural white.

Do you have any links or images of the disassembled head?


----------



## bluemax_1 (Aug 18, 2013)

whc said:


> Sounds good, exactly just swap out the LED is easier and cheaper than going for a new light when a new emitter comes to marked. Have changed the emitter on almost all my flashlights, mostly because I did not like the tint of the stock emitter, like them a little warmer than natural white.
> 
> Do you have any links or images of the disassembled head?


No, I haven't swapped an emitter yet. I just got the NW mkII.

I think the person might be on this thread, or you might try asking vinhnguyen since he's done lots of emitter swaps.


Max


----------



## whc (Aug 19, 2013)

Got mine today, first thing to try is to get down to the emitter, the head comes off two placed in top above the heat fins and the slight knurled head top, here you can get to the lense and reflector. But most important, you can get easy access to the emitter, it is kind of tight, so you have to use some force, but i en bottom part of the head between the two knurling points, you can unscrew the head, and reveal a 14mm emitter board, wary easy to upgrade. 

Detailed photos here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dze33r9jsvcmfo0/2013-08-19 10.49.25.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h2e8ja85e591ns3/2013-08-19 10.49.32.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7dsm0h8hl2fo2sl/2013-08-19 10.50.53.jpg

It can take up to 15mm board. Will upgrade mine to the XM-l2 since it is not possible to get that version in eu, and a warmer tint .


----------



## oKtosiTe (Aug 19, 2013)

whc said:


> Got mine today, first thing to try is to get down to the emitter, the head comes off two placed in top above the heat fins and the slight knurled head top, here you can get to the lense and reflector. But most important, you can get easy access to the emitter, it is kind of tight, so you have to use some force, but i en bottom part of the head between the two knurling points, you can unscrew the head, and reveal a 14mm emitter board, wary easy to upgrade.
> 
> Detailed photos here:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/dze33r9jsvcmfo0/2013-08-19%2010.49.25.jpg
> ...



I've seen at least two dealers that ship the XM-L2 to my location (here in Sweden).


----------



## whc (Aug 19, 2013)

oKtosiTe said:


> I've seen at least two dealers that ship the XM-L2 to my location (here in Sweden).



Yes no problem getting it shipped to Denmark, but when outside the EU we here in DK have to pay not only tax, and moms plus administration fee to the postal office. Just too expensive.

Don't know how it is in Sweden, but guess it is somewhat the same.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Aug 19, 2013)

whc said:


> Yes no problem getting it shipped to Denmark, but when outside the EU we here in DK have to pay not only tax, and moms plus administration fee to the postal office. Just too expensive.
> 
> Don't know how it is in Sweden, but guess it is somewhat the same.


Mostly, yes, although the last (and only) two times I ordered here I didn't have to pay import tax for some reason. Here's to hoping it was not a fluke, since I intend to get me a neutral white Mark II soon.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Aug 19, 2013)

whc, thanks for the pics! It is good to know that this will be fairly easy to upgrade as time goes by. I am really digging my Mark II with neutral white XM-L2. The tint on it is very nice for my preference. It is on the red/pinkish side of tint and adds a nice warm glow to things. I am happy to have it with me on duty and really love that I can go to the lowest mode from the highest before turning on the light.


----------



## whc (Aug 19, 2013)

Just been to the cemetery here tonight, testing the G25C2 XM-L U2 I got today, and WOW nice beam pattern, decent throw (though seeing slight donut effect on distant objects), had along my good old earlier primary light, the Jetbeam JET-III M, the first gen with Cree XR-E Q5 natural white, my modded 4D mag with SSC P7 (around 500 lumens), and the trusty old Novatac 120P also.

Man the G25C2 just puts out a wall of light, not only bright hotspot, but als the spill is just so bright, just my taste of light beam for outdoor all-round use, and man the diffuser just makes the beam so nice and floody, perfect for close objects. Really glad about my purchase, and the UI is prefect for me.

Tint wise well, not really so cool white (blueish) as feared, but more purplish but not as bad purple as some I have owned in the past. Compared to my warm 4D modded mag, with SSC P7, and aluminium reflector, and UCL lens, well the warm (slight greenish) tint from the P7 is preferred for forest and things like that, but the 800+ lumens, just so much more useful, both spill and throw lights everything in its pass, very impressive, especially when coming from an like 5 year old light, just so much has happened in the technology og flash-lighting, now next is to get some more up to date batteries, still use old 2200mah AW batteries, but have some NCR18650B Panasonic cells on the way, looking forward for some better runtime .


----------



## tubed (Sep 3, 2013)

So I'm getting very interested in this light as my potential boating light. I need something that i can pocket, has immediate on to both turbo (hazzards) and low (charts) and (hopefully) has one-handed mode changing (at least from high to low) [I have a thread going in the "Recommend...." section that is getting little traction]

My question is this. It sounds like you can pre-chose your level with the head twist before turning on, but, it sounds like there are no detants involved. Other than turbo (full tight) can you actually, reliably choose your mode before turning on? If you turn PAST low with the head start to screw off?


----------



## selfbuilt (Sep 3, 2013)

tubed said:


> My question is this. It sounds like you can pre-chose your level with the head twist before turning on, but, it sounds like there are no detants involved. Other than turbo (full tight) can you actually, reliably choose your mode before turning on? If you turn PAST low with the head start to screw off?


You can reliably get the the first, second and third modes (from tight) will little practice. Getting it right for the fourth mode is trickier, due to the variable point of shut-off (i.e., too loose, and no light). But I'm sure with a bit of practice you would get good at it.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Sep 3, 2013)

tubed said:


> So I'm getting very interested in this light as my potential boating light. I need something that i can pocket, has immediate on to both turbo (hazzards) and low (charts) and (hopefully) has one-handed mode changing (at least from high to low) [I have a thread going in the "Recommend...." section that is getting little traction]
> 
> My question is this. It sounds like you can pre-chose your level with the head twist before turning on, but, it sounds like there are no detants involved. Other than turbo (full tight) can you actually, reliably choose your mode before turning on? If you turn PAST low with the head start to screw off?


My take on this.

There are 2 user selectable operation mode interfaces for this light:
Tactical = 1000lm, 125lm, strobe 1, strobe 2
Regular = 1000lm, 500?, 65?, 7

As far as one-handed operation goes, if your hands are fairly large and you have strong fingers, you can do what I do and hold the head still with your pinky and turn the body with your thumb and forefinger. I could do this with the light completely stock out of the box which is why I bought it after trying it in a store that carried it. I'm not sure how easy this may be for other people to do.

After getting the light, I tried a variety of lubricants for the head threads and found that a mix of Nano Oil and Super Lube Oil (not the grease) made the head turn even easier. One handed operation between 1000, 125 and Strobe 1 is easy for me now (Tactical interface). The difference between 1000 and 125 is about 1/10 of a turn. The difference from 1000 to Strobe 1 is about 1/4 turn. The difference between 1000 and Strobe 2 is about 1/2 turn. The last requires repositioning my fingers which is why I never use the 4th position (that and I find Strobe 1 more effective).

Keep these things in mind when considering this light for your individual purposes. For me, the Tactical interface does everything I need it to, but the 125 Low may be too high for some folks. Switching from 7lm to 1000lm is too cumbersome for me to accomplish quickly one-handed, so I make do with the 125 low.

If you will only ever use this light 2 handed for mode switching, it's super easy. Grip the light with both hands and if you either know what brightness it was at last, you know how far to turn. If you had the light on Maximum, then the above description tells you how far to turn to nail each mode, and you can quickly learn how far to turn for whatever mode you need. If you can't recall what mode you left the light in and need something other than Maximum preselected before turning it on, simply tighten the head fully and then turn the proper amount from there.


Max


----------



## tubed (Sep 3, 2013)

Thanks both of you for the info.
I think i could probably make this work for me. 
As another fix -- Lately, i've been "customizing" my other black lights' cosmetic appearances with permanent white marker.
It helps me find them in the dark - Probably heresy to some but I really don't care about all black. I could probably put some marks on bezel to indicate levels. I'd be using it on the regular mode - going from turbo to Low.

The last hurdle for me is the "not quite low enough" low.

It's funny to me how many lights there are that _almost_ perfect but for one or two slight problems. I guess i'm just picky.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Sep 4, 2013)

tubed said:


> Thanks both of you for the info.
> I think i could probably make this work for me.
> As another fix -- Lately, i've been "customizing" my other black lights' cosmetic appearances with permanent white marker.
> It helps me find them in the dark - Probably heresy to some but I really don't care about all black. I could probably put some marks on bezel to indicate levels. I'd be using it on the regular mode - going from turbo to Low.
> ...


If you want to customize lights for visibility in the dark, you can try looking into Tritium markers, or my preference, GlowInc GITD paint. Retains its glow for quite a long time (20+ hours).


Max


----------



## Mr. Tone (Sep 4, 2013)

tubed said:


> Thanks both of you for the info.
> I think i could probably make this work for me.
> As another fix -- Lately, i've been "customizing" my other black lights' cosmetic appearances with permanent white marker.
> It helps me find them in the dark - Probably heresy to some but I really don't care about all black. I could probably put some marks on bezel to indicate levels. I'd be using it on the regular mode - going from turbo to Low.
> ...



That is my problem with a lot of lights, too. I like just about everything but the low level is not low enough. I have been using the neutral white version of this light on patrol for a few weeks now. The low level actually works really well for the amount of ambient light that exists in town. It doesn't blow my eyes out but is bright enough to immediately see what I need to. However, it would definitely be too bright for completely dark adapted eyes. 

I only use the max mode and lowest mode on this and it is easy for me to find both without a problem. Max is simply having the head completely tight. The lowest mode I get by giving a good quick twist and I always end up there, like I want. 

If you wanted to be completely sure of coming on in low you could just twist the light farther than you need to and click the switch on. It will not come on at first and then as you tighten the head it will come on in low when you reach the right spot. There seems to be a reasonable amount of area in which the lowest mode will activate.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Sep 4, 2013)

tubed said:


> Thanks both of you for the info.
> I think i could probably make this work for me.
> As another fix -- Lately, i've been "customizing" my other black lights' cosmetic appearances with permanent white marker.
> It helps me find them in the dark - Probably heresy to some but I really don't care about all black. I could probably put some marks on bezel to indicate levels. I'd be using it on the regular mode - going from turbo to Low.
> ...



Another light to consider for you that I just tested is the Nitecore SRT 7.

With the magnetic ring control, you can preselect the light level before turning it on, and the lowest low is definitely lower than the G25C2 mkII's lowest low. The magnetic ring is also a lot easier to turn one-handed (with a reverse or forward grip) than the mkII.

Personally, I'll continue carrying the mkII though, as it suits my needs better than the SRT7. Both lights are better suited for different purposes/users. The SRT7 is optimized for anyone preferring a forward grip as it's super easy to switch modes and brightness with thumb and forefinger on the control ring. Although the ring turns much more easily than the mkII's head, the range of rotation is a lot greater to cycle through modes than the mkII. 

For my personal preferences the mkII is still a better fit in Tactical interface mode. Quick, one-handed access to Maximum and an acceptable Low, as well as Strobe all with a reverse grip. Ability to preselect modes before turn on, and momentary.
With your preferences though, the SRT7 (or SRT6 without the colored LEDs) might be worth looking at.


Max


----------



## tubed (Sep 5, 2013)

you are correct.
In another thread I started on the "recommend.." forum I said that the SRT 6 or 7 basically hits every need i have. Unfortunately, I'm a bit down on Nitecore lights as i've been suffering through a pesky UI in my MH25 (what i thought would be my almost-perfect boat light). So i'm trying to look to other companies.
FWIW - I love the built in charging feature and wish more lights would go to that.

Just last night I saw an new review by selfbuilt about a Skilhunt light that cought my eye. Going there now.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Dec 11, 2013)

I have previously expressed interest in this light, mainly for its flip-up diffuser, somewhat for its neutral white tint and the rest of the kit. Are you (or anyone else) aware of a similar diffuser for lights like the Nitecore SRT7 or MH25, the Olight M22, or the ArmyTek Viking Pro 2.5? That would broaden my options.
I have no problems with the G25C2's interface, but I am worried about wearing out the threads on the head. Is this a legitimate concern if lubed (with NyoGel) and cleaned regularly?


----------



## selfbuilt (Dec 11, 2013)

oKtosiTe said:


> I have no problems with the G25C2's interface, but I am worried about wearing out the threads on the head. Is this a legitimate concern if lubed (with NyoGel) and cleaned regularly?


I responded to the flip-top diffuser options in another thread (short-version, see my Nitecore EA4 review for DIY solution that fits most lights).

But in terms of the twist interface, I am not worried about wearing out the threads on my G25C2. They are very robust in the head. If anything, I would be more worried about a head pin failure (since these are required for detecting the head state). But if a pin were going to fail, I suspect that would happen earlier rather than later.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Dec 12, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> I responded to the flip-top diffuser options in another thread (short-version, see my Nitecore EA4 review for DIY solution that fits most lights).
> 
> But in terms of the twist interface, I am not worried about wearing out the threads on my G25C2. They are very robust in the head. If anything, I would be more worried about a head pin failure (since these are required for detecting the head state). But if a pin were going to fail, I suspect that would happen earlier rather than later.



Darn, that looks like an excellent solution, but I'll have to see how to get my hands on one over here in Sweden.
*Edit*: Found a local reseller! Thank you so much. My sights are still mainly set on this light, but now I have options!


----------



## bluemax_1 (Dec 12, 2013)

Anyone else EDC this light or use it daily?

I'm still getting the intermittent mode problems on mine. It's definitely annoying, although as I detailed earlier, I still carry the light as the only 2 modes available when it gets 'stuck' happen to be the vital modes for me.

For those who didn't read about it, here'll what happens with mine:
I use mine with the Tactical Interface, i.e. from head tight to loosened, the modes are Turbo (1000lm), Low (100lm), Strobe1, Strobe2.

When my light malfunctions, I still have Turbo when the head is tight, but when I loosen the head, I get Strobe 2.

Sometimes, tightening and loosening the head rapidly, multiple times will restore the other modes, sometimes I have to remove the head and flick the spring pins with my fingernail.

Since Turbo and Strobe are vital, and Low is just a convenience, I still carry the light and use it, but that may not hold true for others.

Anyone else use this light daily and experience these problems? BTW, mine is always carried in a holster, not in a pocket.


Max


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 12, 2013)

I haven't had problems with mine but I use the general setting with no strobe modes. Have you tried the setting where you can get strobe from just quickly tapping the push button? Also, I would try a good cleaning of everything to see if that solves your intermittent problem.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Dec 12, 2013)

Mr. Tone said:


> I haven't had problems with mine but I use the general setting with no strobe modes. Have you tried the setting where you can get strobe from just quickly tapping the push button? Also, I would try a good cleaning of everything to see if that solves your intermittent problem.



Yes, I have the double tap strobe setting On. Sometimes it's handy to be able to have the Strobe setting pre-staged allowing momentary use. I've cleaned the light multiple times. I'm not sure what causes the malfunction (i.e. the spring pins getting stuck, which I doubt, as that doesn't seem to be the case since they appear fine when I take the head off). When it gets stuck, head loosened ALWAYS gets Strobe2. Never Strobe1 or Low, i.e I only get Mode 4 with the head loosened. I still get Mode 1 with the head tightened, but when I loosen the head a tiny bit, or a lot, I get Mode 4.

This oddity has happened even when the light has been left in Mode 2 (Low/100lm) where it worked just fine when it was shut off. I go to turn it On with it still set to Mode 2, not having twisted the head since I last turned it Off in Mode 2 and it now comes on in Mode 4 (Strobe 2). I guess I should just contact EagleTac and see if it needs to be sent in.


Max


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 15, 2013)

It sounds like you should go ahead and contact Eagletac to see what they have to say. I have two G25CII MKII lights and have not had any issues with either of them. Good luck and let us know what they have to say.




bluemax_1 said:


> Yes, I have the double tap strobe setting On. Sometimes it's handy to be able to have the Strobe setting pre-staged allowing momentary use. I've cleaned the light multiple times. I'm not sure what causes the malfunction (i.e. the spring pins getting stuck, which I doubt, as that doesn't seem to be the case since they appear fine when I take the head off). When it gets stuck, head loosened ALWAYS gets Strobe2. Never Strobe1 or Low, i.e I only get Mode 4 with the head loosened. I still get Mode 1 with the head tightened, but when I loosen the head a tiny bit, or a lot, I get Mode 4.
> 
> This oddity has happened even when the light has been left in Mode 2 (Low/100lm) where it worked just fine when it was shut off. I go to turn it On with it still set to Mode 2, not having twisted the head since I last turned it Off in Mode 2 and it now comes on in Mode 4 (Strobe 2). I guess I should just contact EagleTac and see if it needs to be sent in.
> 
> ...


----------



## Aahhyes68 (Dec 28, 2013)

I think I've settled on this torch for my next purchase. I am having trouble finding a dealer that sells the light with the diffuser. it seems to be an option in another package for $35.

Anyone know of a deal with the diffuser included ? I did a search for Eagletac on the CPF Marketplace but came up zilch.. If you guys know of a place I would appreciate a link
if you don't mind. PM would be great.

Thanks.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 28, 2013)

Aahhyes68 said:


> I think I've settled on this torch for my next purchase. I am having trouble finding a dealer that sells the light with the diffuser. it seems to be an option in another package for $35.
> 
> Anyone know of a deal with the diffuser included ? I did a search for Eagletac on the CPF Marketplace but came up zilch.. If you guys know of a place I would appreciate a link
> if you don't mind. PM would be great.
> ...



Illumination Supply has the kit version in stock that automatically comes with the diffuser and filters. I.S. is a dealer on CPFMarketplace and recently started carrying Eagletac. Eagletac calls the version with no accessories the base model and the version that comes with the diffuser and filters the kit model. PM sent with link.


----------



## mikemild13 (Dec 28, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> Anyone else EDC this light or use it daily?
> 
> I'm still getting the intermittent mode problems on mine. It's definitely annoying, although as I detailed earlier, I still carry the light as the only 2 modes available when it gets 'stuck' happen to be the vital modes for me.
> 
> ...




I recently cleaned my light with Deoxit Gold and it started having similar problems. I cleaned it again with Deoxit 100 and that seemed to solve the problem.

Just wondering, is there a chance that your battery button might be too large for the teflon ring, in turn causing it to temporarily bind, then let loose? Far fetched, but having been a submarine mechanic for many years, I've seen stranger things happen.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Dec 29, 2013)

mikemild13 said:


> I recently cleaned my light with Deoxit Gold and it started having similar problems. I cleaned it again with Deoxit 100 and that seemed to solve the problem.
> 
> Just wondering, is there a chance that your battery button might be too large for the teflon ring, in turn causing it to temporarily bind, then let loose? Far fetched, but having been a submarine mechanic for many years, I've seen stranger things happen.


It's not the battery button. I'm using a KeepPower 3400 in it. And as mentioned, it will occasionally get 'stuck' in Mode 4 even when the light was shut off in Mode 2 and the head was not turned between the light working fine in Mode 2 when it was shut off with the rear clicky, and later being turned on again with the rear clicky.

It's not as if it gets stuck when I'm turning the head. It works fine when I click the button to shut it off in Mode 2, then later, when I click the button to turn it on, it comes on in Mode 4. And when it gets stuck, it ALWAYS goes to Mode 4.



Max


----------



## mikemild13 (Dec 29, 2013)

Understand. Sorry if I missed something you said earlier.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 29, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> It's not the battery button. I'm using a KeepPower 3400 in it. And as mentioned, it will occasionally get 'stuck' in Mode 4 even when the light was shut off in Mode 2 and the head was not turned between the light working fine in Mode 2 when it was shut off with the rear clicky, and later being turned on again with the rear clicky.
> 
> It's not as if it gets stuck when I'm turning the head. It works fine when I click the button to shut it off in Mode 2, then later, when I click the button to turn it on, it comes on in Mode 4. And when it gets stuck, it ALWAYS goes to Mode 4.
> 
> ...



I wonder if you should try an electrical contact cleaner spray? Do you have any, I can't remember if you said you tried this before or not.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Dec 29, 2013)

Mr. Tone said:


> I wonder if you should try an electrical contact cleaner spray? Do you have any, I can't remember if you said you tried this before or not.



I tried it earlier, but the problem came back. I've got some regular Deoxit (the red stuff). I'll try that next.


Max


----------



## Mr. Tone (Dec 29, 2013)

bluemax_1 said:


> I tried it earlier, but the problem came back. I've got some regular Deoxit (the red stuff). I'll try that next.
> 
> 
> Max



Oh, gotcha. Hopefully you can get it working right. So far so good on the two of these I have.


----------



## n00blumen (Jan 1, 2014)

Anyone have picture examples of cool white vs. neutral white? 

Its hard for for me to decide.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Jan 1, 2014)

n00blumen said:


> Anyone have picture examples of cool white vs. neutral white?
> 
> Its hard for for me to decide.


----------



## n00blumen (Jan 1, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


>




Thank you! Cool white for me in the city. Can't wait to see what 1180 lumens looks like. Will be my brightest flashlight so far.


----------



## selfbuilt (Jan 1, 2014)

n00blumen said:


> Anyone have picture examples of cool white vs. neutral white?


FYI, any set of photos need to be interpreted with caution, as they share a common white balance that is likely not optimal. But generally, if you are not fussy about tints, cool white is the best bang for your buck (and most widely available).


----------



## markr6 (Jan 25, 2014)

Just picked up one of these in neutral white! Such a crazy additction :shakehead


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 25, 2014)

markr6 said:


> Just picked up one of these in neutral white! Such a crazy additction :shakehead



Indeed, it drives my wife crazy! She doesn't get mad at me but just thinks it is funny. The reason why is I sell other lights to buy new ones so I never really spend any of our money.


----------



## markr6 (Jan 25, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> Indeed, it drives my wife crazy! She doesn't get mad at me but just thinks it is funny. The reason why is I sell other lights to buy new ones so I never really spend any of our money.



Same here. I get bored of some or just find something about them I don't like after trying new ones. I tell her I'm selling them and using that money, but she doesn't really believe me. Honestly...it's the truth! Well, maybe recovering 90% of the cash but that's pretty darn good. Thanks CPF Marketplace!


----------



## Berneck1 (Jan 26, 2014)

Does anybody know if a mkIII version is coming soon? The mkII has been around for quite a while now.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jan 26, 2014)

markr6 said:


> Same here. I get bored of some or just find something about them I don't like after trying new ones. I tell her I'm selling them and using that money, but she doesn't really believe me. Honestly...it's the truth! Well, maybe recovering 90% of the cash but that's pretty darn good. Thanks CPF Marketplace!



Yes , indeed, thanks CPFMarketplace!


----------



## markr6 (Jan 29, 2014)

I recevied my G25C2 NW one day early (yesterday). I was happy with the size and quality of the light. Unfortunatley I returned it since the tint was as green as my SC52w. I do like the light and may pick up a cool white or one from Vinh (5000k, my overall preferred tint) in the future.


----------



## NavyDavy (Feb 15, 2014)

I like everthing about this light. Now I need to find a basket weave holster for that allows me to carry it bezel down.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Mr. Tone (Feb 16, 2014)

NavyDavy said:


> I like everthing about this light. Now I need to find a basket weave holster for that allows me to carry it bezel down.
> 
> Any suggestions?



I can't think of any bezel down in basketweave. If I see something I will reply back with it. Are you keeping the clip and rubber grip ring on or did you take them off? That makes a big difference on holster selection.


----------



## NavyDavy (Feb 17, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> I can't think of any bezel down in basketweave. If I see something I will reply back with it. Are you keeping the clip and rubber grip ring on or did you take them off? That makes a big difference on holster selection.


Keeping the ring, losing the clip.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Feb 17, 2014)

NavyDavy said:


> Keeping the ring, losing the clip.



I just checked something for you. The G25C2 MKII will fit bezel down in a MKIV pepper spray holster. I have a Bianchi Accumold one and it fits either way in it. These are also available in basketweave. http://bianchi-intl.com/model-7907-accumold-elite-mace-oc-spray-holder


----------



## NavyDavy (Feb 17, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> I just checked something for you. The G25C2 MKII will fit bezel down in a MKIV pepper spray holster. I have a Bianchi Accumold one and it fits either way in it. These are also available in basketweave. http://bianchi-intl.com/model-7907-accumold-elite-mace-oc-spray-holder


Thank you for checking. It is critical that the flash light comes out of the holster smooth and fast. Again reholstering needs to be smooth, can't bind or catch going back in the holder. I've also asked for quotes from a couple of online custom leather duty gear makers for a custom made holder.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Feb 17, 2014)

NavyDavy said:


> Thank you for checking. It is critical that the flash light comes out of the holster smooth and fast. Again reholstering needs to be smooth, can't bind or catch going back in the holder. I've also asked for quotes from a couple of online custom leather duty gear makers for a custom made holder.



Bezel up comes out fast but not bezel down. I carried my Eagletac G25C2 MKII in the MKIV Accumold holster for a while bezel up and that works well. I have one of the 5.11 ATAC flashlight holsters laying around that I could check for you but that is a black polymer and basketweave is not an option that I know of.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Mar 17, 2014)

Something I've wondered about this light is whether filters can be combined with the diffuser in any way. Has anyone tried this?


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 17, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


> Something I've wondered about this light is whether filters can be combined with the diffuser in any way. Has anyone tried this?


Typically, you won't be able to screw down the retaining ring if you try to put both the diffuser and colored filter inside the head assembly. It is really one or the other.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Mar 17, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Typically, you won't be able to screw down the retaining ring if you try to put both the diffuser and colored filter inside the head assembly. It is really one or the other.


That's a bit of a shame, but good to know. Thanks once again.


----------



## Phaserburn (Mar 17, 2014)

You could put diffusion film on the colored lens.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Mar 18, 2014)

Phaserburn said:


> You could put diffusion film on the colored lens.


True, although that's a bit final. The point would be to easily change between diffused and non-diffused.
I'm also looking into diffusing the SRT7.


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 18, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


> True, although that's a bit final. The point would be to easily change between diffused and non-diffused.
> I'm also looking into diffusing the SRT7.


There are removable diffuser films (although these don't typically work as well as the more permanent type). Glad press-n-seal comes to mind, for ex.

For the SRT7, the standard Olight M22 diffuser is a perfect fit - nice and snug. Of course, it's not a flip diffuser. You could build your own flip-top diffuser using the Butler Creek Blizzard flip-open scope cover (size 5 - 1.6-1.69 inch, 40.64-42.92mm), as described in my Nitecore EA4 thread. The SRT7 is the same opening as the EA4, and I can confirm that flip-top scope cover works fine. :wave:


----------



## oKtosiTe (Mar 18, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> There are removable diffuser films (although these don't typically work as well as the more permanent type). Glad press-n-seal comes to mind, for ex.
> 
> For the SRT7, the standard Olight M22 diffuser is a perfect fit - nice and snug. Of course, it's not a flip diffuser. You could build your own flip-top diffuser using the Butler Creek Blizzard flip-open scope cover (size 5 - 1.6-1.69 inch, 40.64-42.92mm), as described in my Nitecore EA4 thread. The SRT7 is the same opening as the EA4, and I can confirm that flip-top scope cover works fine. :wave:


That (the Butler Creek Blizzard solution) was exactly my plan. I just love the implementation of the flip-top diffuser on the G25C2, but feel the SRT7 could help me somewhat with my color-blindness (e.g.: point a red light at a red and a green pen, and only the red one will light up). Right now money is still a restricting factor, but I can't help constantly scouting for what would be the perfect EDC for me. Both those lights meet most of my requirements (e.g.: 800+ lumens, fairly throwy, diffusible) , but the SRT7 right now looks a bit more attractive due to it's multi colored LEDs, reversible pocket clip and variable output.
As always, thank you for your time and your hugely helpful insights.


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 18, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


> That (the Butler Creek Blizzard solution) was exactly my plan. I just love the implementation of the flip-top diffuser on the G25C2, but feel the SRT7 could help me somewhat with my color-blindness (e.g.: point a red light at a red and a green pen, and only the red one will light up). Right now money is still a restricting factor, but I can't help constantly scouting for what would be the perfect EDC for me. Both those lights meet most of my requirements (e.g.: 800+ lumens, fairly throwy, diffusible) , but the SRT7 right now looks a bit more attractive due to it's multi colored LEDs, reversible pocket clip and variable output. As always, thank you for your time and your hugely helpful insights.


Happy to help. One comment I would make is that SRT7 is using standard 5mm tri-colored LEDs, which are relatively low output. You might want to also consider the Nitecore Chaemeleon series, as these have at least one proper dedicated colored XP-E (in addition to the 5mm tri-colored ones).

Also, if going the Blizzard Creek scope cover route on the SRT7, note that you will slightly affect output (due to the rim of the cover, which partially blocks some of the emitters on the periphery. It's not much though - and well worth it in my books to smooth out the less-than-attractive overlapping 5mm beam patterns. I'll post this comment over in my SRT7 review thread as well.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Mar 18, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Happy to help. One comment I would make is that SRT7 is using standard 5mm tri-colored LEDs, which are relatively low output. You might want to also consider the Nitecore Chaemeleon series, as these have at least one proper dedicated colored XP-E (in addition to the 5mm tri-colored ones).
> 
> Also, if going the Blizzard Creek scope cover route on the SRT7, note that you will slightly affect output (due to the rim of the cover, which partially blocks some of the emitters on the periphery. It's not much though - and well worth it in my books to smooth out the less-than-attractive overlapping 5mm beam patterns. I'll post this comment over in my SRT7 review thread as well.



In order not to cross-post, I'll just link to my reply in said other thread. Hope that's OK. If not, just send me a PM and this post will disappear.


----------



## Danimalpharm (Mar 19, 2014)

Great review. I now need one. Have you done any testing with the 2 or 3 x 18650 configuration? Would this give the same output as 1x18650, or simply longer run times? If long run-times was the goal and I had two fully charged 18650s, would it be best to run one at a time, or two together? I'm not sure if this question pertains to the G25C2-II specifically, or for all lights than can accept 1-2 batteries. I ask because I'm considering picking this one up with the kit that includes the extenders. I'm wondering if running two batteries gains anything but a longer grip.


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 19, 2014)

Danimalpharm said:


> Great review. I now need one. Have you done any testing with the 2 or 3 x 18650 configuration? Would this give the same output as 1x18650, or simply longer run times? .


It simply adds more runtime. As you'll see in the review, there was no difference between 1x18650 and 2xRCR. 2x18650 is the same voltage as 2xRCR.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Mar 19, 2014)

Danimalpharm said:


> Great review. I now need one. Have you done any testing with the 2 or 3 x 18650 configuration? Would this give the same output as 1x18650, or simply longer run times? If long run-times was the goal and I had two fully charged 18650s, would it be best to run one at a time, or two together? I'm not sure if this question pertains to the G25C2-II specifically, or for all lights than can accept 1-2 batteries. I ask because I'm considering picking this one up with the kit that includes the extenders. I'm wondering if running two batteries gains anything but a longer grip.


As the batteries run more efficiently at lower draw rates. If using 2 batteries doesn't change the output, then running the light with 2 batteries means a lower draw from each battery, which would mean better runtime at the higher brightness levels than running 1 battery at a time.


Max


----------



## A-Rob (Mar 26, 2014)

*Bad Anodizing?*

Does anyone else have a problem with the finish on this light? I got it about 6 months ago, and a small spot of anodizing was chipped off on one of the cooling fins. It was small and it didn't bother me. Now, there are spots all over it, especially on the cooling fin edges. It is either in the holster (on my nightstand) or laying on an end table. I don't carry it in my pockets, work with it and it hasn't been abused or dropped. About the only thing I do with it is light up my dogs in the yard every night, from my porch, but it looks like it has been dragged through hell and back.

I sent a message to EagleTac through their website and got no response at all. I'm not exactly OCD about my tools, but if they're going to be marked up, there should be a reason. Did I get a fluke or is this common? FWIW, I've got a Zebralight headlamp that has been with me under cars, in the woods, dropped etc. and it looks brand new. Same with my few others (Sunwayman, Fenix, Thrunite). If this is uncommon, I would consider getting more ET lights, because its build quality, etc. is impressive.


----------



## kj2 (Mar 26, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



A-Rob said:


> Does anyone else have a problem with the finish on this light? I got it about 6 months ago, and a small spot of anodizing was chipped off on one of the cooling fins. It was small and it didn't bother me. Now, there are spots all over it, especially on the cooling fin edges. It is either in the holster (on my nightstand) or laying on an end table. I don't carry it in my pockets, work with it and it hasn't been abused or dropped. About the only thing I do with it is light up my dogs in the yard every night, from my porch, but it looks like it has been dragged through hell and back.
> 
> I sent a message to EagleTac through their website and got no response at all. I'm not exactly OCD about my tools, but if they're going to be marked up, there should be a reason. Did I get a fluke or is this common? FWIW, I've got a Zebralight headlamp that has been with me under cars, in the woods, dropped etc. and it looks brand new. Same with my few others (Sunwayman, Fenix, Thrunite). If this is uncommon, I would consider getting more ET lights, because its build quality, etc. is impressive.



The G25C2 I ordered had also coating chips on it. Returned it mainly because of that. The GX25A3 I've also has some spots. What I see overall, Eagletac should do a better job on the coating.


----------



## Bullyson (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*

What's the stock amps on turbo? Is measuring at the tail accurate?


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 28, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



Bullyson said:


> What's the stock amps on turbo? Is measuring at the tail accurate?


In my view, no.

I suppose tailcap measures could be "consitent", at least for lights with similar current draws (i.e., in relative terms, for a narrow range). But the resistance in the DMM and leads makes accurate measures really challenging at high current draws. I know from my experience that my mainstream DMM isn't up to the task (i.e., I can detect the impact on output level when doing tailcap draws on most Turbo modes). I suppose a really high-end DMM could do it, but really, you need a power supply to directly interrogate the circuit in the head.


----------



## turkeylord (May 28, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*

When the light is twisted past "low" to "off" - is there any parasitic drain? Is the head loose at that point or will it stay on the light fine? I've got one on the way from vinh. 

Great review, thanks


----------



## selfbuilt (May 29, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



turkeylord said:


> When the light is twisted past "low" to "off" - is there any parasitic drain? Is the head loose at that point or will it stay on the light fine? I've got one on the way from vinh.


I've just double-checked, and no, there is no standby drain when the head loosened to the point that the light shuts off. It is a full contact break.


----------



## turkeylord (May 29, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



selfbuilt said:


> I've just double-checked, and no, there is no standby drain when the head loosened to the point that the light shuts off. It is a full contact break.



Excellent, thanks.


----------



## Mr. Tone (May 29, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



kj2 said:


> The G25C2 I ordered had also coating chips on it. Returned it mainly because of that. The GX25A3 I've also has some spots. What I see overall, Eagletac should do a better job on the coating.



That is too bad. I have many Eagletac lights, including two G25C2 MKII in neutral white, and none of my Eagletac lights have ever had coating chips. I suppose they could have a bad batch or something from time to time but I have a large sample group and all have been high quality performers and in finish, too.


----------



## bhonder (Jun 14, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*

Maybe I am dumb... 

How do i mount the rubber tail stand. Any help will be appreciated.


----------



## turkeylord (Jun 14, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



bhonder said:


> Maybe I am dumb...
> 
> How do i mount the rubber tail stand. Any help will be appreciated.


Remove the lanyard attachment by prying it apart at the split with a fingernail, then the tail stand cap just stretches on.


----------



## jdonner (Jun 23, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*

I don't like clips, can I remove this one?


----------



## turkeylord (Jun 23, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



jdonner said:


> I don't like clips, can I remove this one?


Yes, there's a ring that screws off that holds it in place.


----------



## bladesmith3 (Jul 20, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*

does anyone know how hot to the touch this light gets on turbo? how long can it be comfortably held in your hand without external cooling?


----------



## turkeylord (Jul 25, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*

Even my boosted light stays a reasonable temp - I don't think it's an issue.


----------



## selfbuilt (Jul 25, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*



turkeylord said:


> Even my boosted light stays a reasonable temp - I don't think it's an issue.


I would agree, I've never noticed a problem on Turbo (although I usually walk around with the light on the Hi output level).


----------



## bladesmith3 (Jul 25, 2014)

*Re: Bad Anodizing?*

wrong op sorry


----------



## BringerOfLight (Jul 27, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> The G25C2-II (with XM-L2 U2) is a definite output upgrade from my G25C2 (with XM-L T5/T6). This is due to more than just an emitter output bin upgrade – it would appear that Eagletac is driving these Mark II series lights higher than my original G25C2.


Eagletac actually tells you the maximum drive current. Just look at the circuit name in the specifications. Early versions of the G25C2-II had the "C2100 Extreme" (2.1A max LED current). The current version has the "C3300 Extreme4" (3.3A max LED current).

The TX25L2 is using the "C3300 ST".


----------



## cejnr (Jul 29, 2014)

Excellent review. This helped me decide on the G25C2-II for my first tactical light. I must say, IT'S AWESOME!! I ordered mine in the neutral white tint as I use it in forest environments a lot and the throw is incredible as well as the flood I get from it. 
Just what I was looking for in a flashlight :twothumbs


----------



## Mr. Tone (Jul 30, 2014)

cejnr said:


> Excellent review. This helped me decide on the G25C2-II for my first tactical light. I must say, IT'S AWESOME!! I ordered mine in the neutral white tint as I use it in forest environments a lot and the throw is incredible as well as the flood I get from it.
> Just what I was looking for in a flashlight :twothumbs



Good to hear, I have two neutral white versions and they are great.


----------



## texbaz (Aug 3, 2014)

BringerOfLight said:


> Eagletac actually tells you the maximum drive current. Just look at the circuit name in the specifications. Early versions of the G25C2-II had the "C2100 Extreme" (2.1A max LED current). The current version has the "C3300 Extreme4" (3.3A max LED current).
> 
> The TX25L2 is using the "C3300 ST".




Thanks, good info.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Sep 30, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> There is also a momentary tailcap strobe setting (off by default). To toggle this feature, tighten the head fully and click the light off/on 20 times rapidly at the switch.


I have to check, since I am having some trouble getting this to work (my thumb speed is not at fault, since am an avid gamer): do I have to...

Click twenty times (i.e.: 10 on/off cycles)
Click on & off twenty times (i.e.: 40 clicks)
Go through 20 on/off cycles (i.e.: momentary should suffice)

Also, should I get some sort of confirmation flash?

EDIT: Both option 2 and 3 seem to work (so essentially 20 cycles), but only if I keep the button pressed a "21th" time.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Oct 9, 2014)

Does anyone know at what voltage the main LED starts flashing?
And I finally bought this light because of your review, selfbuilt. Thanks!

*EDIT*: Never mind, it is listed on their website: "When 18650 li-ion battery falls below *2.9V*, the LED will flash once every 30 seconds to remind you that the battery is almost out (li-ion protection ic usually shut down the flashlight around 2.7V). Lowering output brightness will extend the runtime and disable the warning until battery voltage drops below 2.9V again.."


----------



## Tapis (Oct 9, 2014)

Thanks for the review. I want to love this light, but the idea of loosening the whole head to change the levels doesn't please me much. A rotating ring seems for me to be a much easier way to do it.


----------



## bhonder (Oct 19, 2014)

Tapis said:


> Thanks for the review. I want to love this light, but the idea of loosening the whole head to change the levels doesn't please me much. A rotating ring seems for me to be a much easier way to do it.



It is just a matter of few degrees, not the whole head. Once you get used, you do it with just the thumb and index fingers.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Oct 20, 2014)

Tapis said:


> Thanks for the review. I want to love this light, but the idea of loosening the whole head to change the levels doesn't please me much. A rotating ring seems for me to be a much easier way to do it.





bhonder said:


> It is just a matter of few degrees, not the whole head. Once you get used, you do it with just the thumb and index fingers.



I've owned this light for a few weeks, and I agree with Tapis. While I love it just the same (I knew this was the case going in), loosening the head from turbo with just two fingers is near-impossible. Tightening to turbo is hard too, since the head needs to be fairly secure to avoid any chance of flickering.
However: I usually plan ahead: high is high enough in most situations, and high-medium-low can be done with one hand just fine. If I expect to need strobe, I program the light for tailcap strobe (works on any level) on my way out the door. But really, I mostly use the light on turbo, only switching to lower modes when I specifically need them.


----------



## selfbuilt (Oct 20, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


> While I love it just the same (I knew this was the case going in), loosening the head from turbo with just two fingers is near-impossible. Tightening to turbo is hard too, since the head needs to be fairly secure to avoid any chance of flickering. However: I usually plan ahead: high is high enough in most situations, and high-medium-low can be done with one hand just fine.


Yes, I've been using this light for some time now as my backyard, "take the dog out one last time before bed", light. This typically involves me surveying the area first, as she will go after anything she detects - and we commonly have rabbits (and occasionally a whole family of raccoons) lounging around my yard at night (we partially border on some green space).

I find it's not really feasible (in my hands) to do the Turbo/Hi switch one handed (easier for the lower modes). But frankly, I rarely need the Turbo mode, and usually just run the light in Hi with the diffuser cover down. I can always flick the cover up with a finger, to switch from flood to throw.


----------



## bluemax_1 (Oct 20, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, I've been using this light for some time now as my backyard, "take the dog out one last time before bed", light. This typically involves me surveying the area first, as she will go after anything she detects - and we commonly have rabbits (and occasionally a whole family of raccoons) lounging around my yard at night (we partially border on some green space).
> 
> I find it's not really feasible (in my hands) to do the Turbo/Hi switch one handed (easier for the lower modes). But frankly, I rarely need the Turbo mode, and usually just run the light in Hi with the diffuser cover down. I can always flick the cover up with a finger, to switch from flood to throw.



The particular lube used makes a difference too. Any kind of grease is a little thick and increases the force needed to turn the head.

I use a drop of SuperLube (the oil, not the grease) and a drop of Nano Oil on the head threads. This allows me to hold the light in a reverse grip (thumb on tailswitch), hold the head with my pinky finger and turn the body with my thumb and forefinger to switch to Turbo.

Then again, this might not be easily doable no matter what lube you use if you can't palm a basketball.


Max


----------



## Mr. Tone (Oct 26, 2014)

The battery length also makes a difference on the tension of twisting the head.


----------



## oKtosiTe (Oct 27, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> The battery length also makes a difference on the tension of twisting the head.


True, and I would say that this light is somewhat picky about batteries. My O-light 3400mAh cells require me to leave the tail unscrewed a little bit, while my 2200mAh unprotected laptop rips don't make contact in the fourth mode because they are too short. EagleTac's own cells seem like a perfect fit, of course.


----------



## Mr. Tone (Oct 28, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


> True, and I would say that this light is somewhat picky about batteries. My O-light 3400mAh cells require me to leave the tail unscrewed a little bit, while my 2200mAh unprotected laptop rips don't make contact in the fourth mode because they are too short. EagleTac's own cells seem like a perfect fit, of course.



The difference was first noticed by myself when I bought some bare unprotected 2900ma Panasonic NCR18650PF. The head twists so easy with those that I can do it one-handed. Don't get me wrong, it is not hard with the Eagletac batteries but the shorter unprotected batteries make it really easy to turn.


----------



## rickypanecatyl (May 5, 2015)

I've found eventually everyone of these lifhts I have get to a point where twisting the head produces unpredictable, unreliable results such as jumping to turbo or having the head tight be turbo and then position 2 = off, 3 = lower, 4 = turbo. I suspect it increases when things get dirty and I suspect our constantly high humidity here may exacerbate the problem.

At the moment I've got a Vinh version with a dedomed XM-L2 U3 that I love the extra throw but it goes it also does what the stock light does in that it is unpredictable when it comes to twisting the head.
I've got a special forces buddy leaving for Northern Iraq tonight without a good light and I really wanted to give this to him. I'm in a small town in Thailand at the moment without access to any exotic supplies. Anyone have any ideas of how I might be able to fix it up given access to limited resources at the moment?


----------



## Mr. Tone (May 6, 2015)

That is too bad, I haven't had those problems with mine and I have two. However, I hate the blinky modes and have mine programmed to just have 4 different levels of light as opposed to the mode set you are using. As far as cleaning just use some cotton swabs and rubbing alcohol. That has worked pretty well for me to remove dirt and oxidation. The aluminum oxidizes like crazy on all my lights.


----------



## rickypanecatyl (May 6, 2015)

Thanks Mr. Tone! Vinh just wrote me with the same idea - alcohol or gasoline. 


FWIW I hate the blinky modes too... hate them with a passion! But it seems every light I have with "hidden" blinky modes eventually starts blinking!
I even have a Garmin Oregon 650T GPS that if I leave it on in it's pouch on my rucksack shoulder strap will start strobing randomly! 

2 days ago I was in a room full of SF guys - 1 delta, 3 DEVGRU, a few seals but mostly SF. If you want to feel like an idiot try explaining why having blinky modes in cheap Chinese flashlight makes it a "tactical" light to a group like that. If they doubt you, show them a picture of Nitecore's "tactical" light with the airsoft gun and ask if they've used that model before. :twothumbs


----------



## selfbuilt (May 6, 2015)

rickypanecatyl said:


> Thanks Mr. Tone! Vinh just wrote me with the same idea - alcohol or gasoline.


Yes, I use deoxit periodically on these sorts of lights. FYI, I've been using this review sample as my nightly dog-walk (or let out in the back yard) light since this review, and have not had any problems with mode switching.


----------



## Mr. Tone (May 6, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, I use deoxit periodically on these sorts of lights. FYI, I've been using this review sample as my nightly dog-walk (or let out in the back yard) light since this review, and have not had any problems with mode switching.



I am glad to hear that. I have quite a few Eagletacs and the mode switching has never given me problems on any of them.


----------



## captnick (May 11, 2015)

I've had mine for about a year now, very happy with it so far. Mode switching has not been an issue for me. Only thing I could really complain about is the finish, seems to chip very easily. Overall a good light worth the money.


----------

