# Solarforce P1 P60 Host Review



## LilKevin715 (Mar 31, 2012)

Solarforce certainly needs no introduction here on CPF. Solarforce products, specifically their P60 hosts, are popular for a reason: quality on a budget. Today I will be reviewing their latest and greatest P60 host; the Solarforce P1.

*Overview:*



 

 



The P1 is unique from other P60 hosts as the host is primarily made of Glass Fiber Reinforced Polymer (GFRP for short). This can be seen as both a pro and a con. The use of GFRP allows for more comfortable use during cold weather environments, reduced weight, chemical resistant, as well as being electrically non-conductive. The main drawback of using GFRP is reduced metal mass for heatsinking. Whether or not this trade-off is worth it shall be seen in the testing part of this review.



 

 



The GFRP on the P1 is very dense in terms of hardness. I tried using my fingernail to make an indentation into the material and I couldn’t leave a mark. By contrast a flashlight made of nitrolon or plastic can be dented with a fingernail. 



 

 



The P1 has a slightly thicker build compared to other Solarforce hosts such as the L2 series.



 

 



 

 

The head is made of GFRP and uses a new type of bezel/retaining ring to hold the glass lens and washer in place. This new retaining ring is made of the same GFRP material and can be easily loosened & tightened with a fingernail; no need for tools. For those that are curious the threads on the head for the retaining ring are NOT compatible with the bezels made for the L2 series:sigh:. I wouldn’t try to force a L2-style bezel ring on as the diameter is too wide, as well as the possibility of stripping the GFRP threads.




 

 



 

 

Here are measurements of the retaining ring, lens, and the washer. Note that the glass lens on the P1 is thinner compared to the stock glass lens on the L2-sytle lights (2.05mm). Also note that the washer used for keeping out moisture has been changed in the P1 compared to the L2-style washer. The stock glass lens isn’t bad at all in terms of clarity and light transmission; it just needs to be cleaned with Windex and a qtip. As a side note: on all of my L2 hosts I’ve replaced the stock glass lens with a custom-sized (28.1mm) hardcoat acrylic lens from flashlightlens.com. The P1 can take up to a 28.6mm lens, but it’s a pretty tight fit.



 

 



 

The section of the body tube that screws onto the head is made of GFRP. The only part of the body tube that is made of metal is the battery tube. This has a potential drawback as there is no direct contact from a P60 reflector to the metal battery tube for an optimal thermal path for heatsinking:thumbsdow. The only type of heatsinking provided would be via the outer spring used on P60 modules for the negative electrical ground path. 

The biggest question is whether or not the outer spring can conduct heat efficiently from the pill to the aluminum battery tube. As far as I know of the outer spring used for the negative electrical path is made out of steel (disregard the outer gold color coating). Steel has roughly half the thermal conductivity compared to brass (pill material), while aluminum has almost twice the thermal conductivity of brass. The steel spring would be a bottleneck somewhat in terms of thermal conductivity. Testing will show whether or not this will be a significant factor. Hopefully solarforce's testing results were accurate in determining that the steel spring is a good enough heat conductor.



 

 



For those that like to lego their P60 hosts you can screw on a L2-sytle metal head:thumbsup:. I would be very careful when screwing on a metal head, it seemed a bit tight and I didn’t want to possibly strip the GFRP threads. The use of a metal head can help alleviate potential heatsinking problems as noted above. However this shouldn’t be necessary in the first place as the design shouldn’t be fundamentally flawed in terms of heatsinking:tsk:.



 

 



The threads on the portion of the body tube where the tailcap screws on are anodized for tailcap lockout:thumbsup:. Also included is a battery sleeve made out of Delrin to prevent/reduce battery rattle, a nice extra touch by Solarforce. 



 

 



According to my measurements the delrin battery sleeve is on the wide side slightly. Most CR123 primary batteries are around 16.5mm in diameter, while RCR123 (16340) li-ion batteries are a little bit wider around 16.7mm. The battery sleeve could possibly even accept 17mm diameter li-ion batteries. It is something to note about but not a huge drawback if any at all. Without the battery sleeve the battery tube is quite spacious for even the widest 18650 li-ion batteries.



 

 



The tailcap is also made of GFRP material except for the forward clicky switch obviously. The GFRP material works in conjunction with the anodized threads on the battery tube for tailcap lockout. I tried installing a L2-style tailcap but it would not screw on all the way. The forward clicky switch is rated up to 3 amps by Solarforce. This should be plenty as I wouldn’t imagine running any P60 drop-in at higher amperage considering the substantial lack of metal for heatsinking.

*The Test:*



 

 

To test the heatsinking capabilities of the P1 I will monitor the temperature of the host at two locations. The first location will be at the reflector while the second location will be at the battery tube. The purpose of the two locations is to see if the steel spring will be effective enough to transfer heat from the drop-in reflector/pill to the battery tube. The easiest way to obtain accurate temperature data at the reflector was to remove the lens, install copper braid wedged in between the reflector and the head, and attach the thermal probe to the copper braid. This will let some heat out, but I believe it shouldn’t affect the main purpose of the test.

The drop-in used for testing is a XM-L driven at 2.8 amps using a driver based on AMC7135 linear regulators. The battery used in the test is an AW 2900mah 18650 battery. The test will run for 30 minutes at full power or until the drop-in fails. After the 30 minutes at full power I will also record 10 minutes of cooling off. Temperature data will be recorded at one minute intervals at the two locations. I hope Solarforce has done their R&D in terms of heatsinking, because things are about to get toasty:naughty:! This particular drop-in is a spare of mine. If the LED overheats and fries at least it will be sacrificed in the name of science. No guts no glory.

*The results:*



 

 

Can you say hot potato?!?! :wow:. When I saw the reflector temperature climb to 80+ degrees Celsius I was sure in thinking the LED would fry (LED temperature was most likely much higher). However I can report back that the XM-L did not fry and is alive and well. The light was HOT during the testing as there was no fan for airflow and no hand contact for heat transfer to the body. Would I recommend running a drop-in such as mine for that long of duration? Probably not for the LED lifetime longevity but it was reassuring that the LED didn’t fry. 

*Modification (ring):*

Before the P1 arrived in my hands for reviewing I was brainstorming for a way to improve upon the fundamental design flaw in terms of heatsinking. My solution to the design flaw was to fabricate a metal ring. The purpose of the metal ring was to provide a better thermal path from the reflector to the battery tube, as well as provide the necessary electrical path to complete the circuit. 



 

 



 

 



 

 

I had to take four measurements with my digital caliper in order to calculate the necessary depth of the ring. The first measurement is the distance from the battery tube to the top of the body tube. The second measurement is the distance from the bottom of where the head screws in to the top of the body tube. The third measurement is the inside of the head where the distance is from the lip that touches the outer edge of the reflector to the bottom of the head. The fourth measurement is the depth of the reflector itself, which ranged from 22.0 to 22.2mm. After taking the necessary measurements I calculated the ring depth to around 6.8 to 6.9mm, accounting for the variance of reflector depth. This ring depth ensures that when the head is screwed on all the way the ring not move. I headed to my local home improvement/hardware store and purchased a 0.75 inch x 2 ft. M type copper pipe for around $8.



 

 



 

After some DIY work with a hacksaw, mitre box, and metal filing I had my ring.



 

 



 

With the ring installed the heatsinking (and arguably the electrical path, less resistance) should be improved. Time for another 30 minute torture test:devil:.

*Second test:*



 

The second run with the copper ring installed did have a noticeable change in temperatures. The copper ring is definitely more efficient in transferring heat compared to the steel spring. The reflector temperature did not rise as fast as well as having a lower temperature overall. The body tube was able to absorb more heat efficiently compared to the spring, but not by a huge margin. My results could possibly be improved by using a thermally and electrically conductive epoxy to permanently attach the ring to the battery tube. After both test runs the drop-in was still working fine and there was no damage. The GFRP material did not melt/deform due to the high temperatures.

*Conclusions:*

The Solarforce P1 is definitely an interesting P60 host as the GFRP construction is unique. The use of GFRP does have its features and drawbacks as stated earlier in the review. My main concern of the fundamental flaw in heatsinking turned out to be validated. Any high power drop-in such as the 2.8 amp XM-L used in testing should be used with caution. Drop-in modules in the 1 to 1.5 amp range should be fine. Careful planning to manage thermals is paramount depending on what type of drop-in is used. As enthusiasts we are pushing the edges of the P60 form factor in terms of output and heat. With the P1 we have to take a step backwards, assess, and be more cautious.


----------



## LilKevin715 (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Reserved


----------



## xed888 (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Hey Kev,

Great to see your review! I wrapped my drop-in in aluminium foil and shoved it into the host and it seems to work quite well. No heat issues and i leave it on 3A for 15-20 mins on a bike but of course, there is air cooling when i cycle. Also my drop in has thermo regulation at 50C so i think it should be safe. Any thoughts?


----------



## Blitzwing (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Thanks for the review. Mine will be housing a three mode Xp-G or the three mode Ultrafire XM-L, which would only be used in short bursts, so I don't foresee any heat issues for my own purposes. Shame the bezels can't be swapped with L2 bezels - I was hoping to put a flat stainless one on.


----------



## PCC (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Interesting information and observations. I wonder how your results would differ if you tried it with an L2 bezel? Reason being, Surefire G2 users have been substituting the aluminum Z44 for their Nitrolon bezels when switching to LED drop-ins, but, no one has ever measured the effectiveness of this mod, as far as I know. With the P1 I can see swapping the GFRP head for an L2 or Z44 for added thermal performance as this would be far easier to do than to fabricate a copper heat conduit.


----------



## turboBB (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Kevin, thx for this very informative review, I know this took a lot of work to do so really appreciate the time and effor that went into it!
(BTW, you're missing an "s" from one of the words in your very last sentence which makes all the difference in the world as to what you're tring to convey...) =o)
EDIT: And I'm absolutely not trying to nitpick on typo's I have my fair share of those, it's just the word has a completely different context. ;o)


@PCC - An L2 (or any compatible aluminum bezel for that matter) would've made a huge difference in terms of heat shedding. I once fried a XR-E R2 drop-in while doing runtime testing in a G2Z host w/the nitrolon bezel. No such problems w/a Z44 head though. But then, it kind of defeats the whole purpose of getting this host in the first place. Bottom line is if heat will be a concern, then there are much better choices than the P1. But if form above function is what one is after then the P1 fits the bill. I like the design and if used with a moderately driven pill carefully, it would make a great host in that regard.


----------



## RI Chevy (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Nice informative review. Thanks for taking the time to do this for us! :thumbsup:


----------



## ^Gurthang (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Great review, thanks for the very informative write-up. Seems that the P1 is best suited for what is now considered a "medium" power drop-in. I'll be curious so see if SF develops accessories for the P1 as it has for the L2.


----------



## betweenrides (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

Thanks for a great review, Kevin.


----------



## chewy78 (Mar 31, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 Host Review*

nice review, looks like a good candidate to use in the fire service as a general purpose light. Maybe a guy could also dye it a different color like people were doing in this thread http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...urefire-G2&highlight=g2+nitrolon+color+orange


----------



## LilKevin715 (Mar 31, 2012)

Thanks everyone for the feedback. The thorough review was made so potential buyers are aware of the possible shortcomings related to the heatsinking. The P1 is definately not a ordinary, run of the mill, generic design P60 host and I figured it deserved a thorough review. I have a few P1's out in the field being tested in a pilot program. I had to know for sure if it would work without issues for the average non-flashaholic. If things go well in the pilot program then I'll be making a large purchase for a company that currently issues generic 2D incan industrial plastic flashlights to its employees:sick2:.

xed888:
The GFRP material is not a pure thermal insulator as it does conduct some heat (the flashlight body got HOT during testing). However it has nowhere near the thermal conductivity of aluminum, copper, etc. Wrapping a drop-in with aluminum foil wouldn't hurt, but I don't think it will really help that much either.

PCC:
There is no doubt using a metal L2 head would greatly improve the heatsinking. However TurboBB couldn't have said it any better as to why someone would purchase this particular host. I did consider running a third test with the L2 head installed, but it would require using the steel spring, or fabricating another copper ring as the third measurement described in the review was larger by about 0.3mm. If I had a lathe to do the work easily then I wouldn't mind. However I have to fabricate the ring by hand, which takes time.

TurboBB:
Thanks for pointing that out, its was pretty late when I typed up the review. Subtle things like that can happen when your pretty tired:tired:.

Gurthang:
It would be nice if Solarforce decided to make accessories designed for the P1. If there is enough demand I'm sure they would. However on a somewhat related note I don't see any accessories made for the non-black colored L2P's. Just something to keep in mind.

Chewy78:
I'm suprised they didn't offer a orange color at all. It would be pretty cool if someone could do a custom color dye of the host. It seems their color choices mimick the offfering's of the G2's. For me personally a GITD color offering would be awesome. This host definately has its own market niche.


----------



## GunnarGG (Mar 31, 2012)

Thanks for the review, great work!
This looks really nice.

I have a M61WL.
When I run it in a 6P the light doesn't get warm at all.

What do you guys think about running that dropin in this host.
Would it work without problems and without any need to limit the runtime?


----------



## tjswarbrick (Mar 31, 2012)

GunnarGG said:


> I have a M61WL.
> When I run it in a 6P the light doesn't get warm at all.
> 
> What do you guys think about running that dropin in this host.
> Would it work without problems and without any need to limit the runtime?



First, Kevin, thanks for a great and thorough review. You went through a lot of trouble, and I, for one, appreciate it.

I run an M61LHCRI (very similar to the WL) in a G2z with no concerns whatever about heat. In fact, I accidentally left in on, in my BOB, until the (brand new) batteries died - with no ill effects whatsoever.
If you are happy with a single mode, I think that is a fantastic module for this light.
Malkoff recommend it for the G and other polymer-bodied lights.
I wonder if the P1 tail will take a McClicky...


----------



## Pekka (Mar 31, 2012)

Any change for an all-aluminum light thermal test for reference?
Also, did you try a Surefire-compatible bezel ring on it? The threads make it look so that the Xeno bezel ring might just fit in...


----------



## LilKevin715 (Apr 1, 2012)

Pekka said:


> Any change for an all-aluminum light thermal test for reference?
> Also, did you try a Surefire-compatible bezel ring on it? The threads make it look so that the Xeno bezel ring might just fit in...



If I can find the motivation to perform another test (if enough people request it) then I guess I can do it. Logic would dictate that the temperatures would be lower due to the increased metal mass for heatsinking. The only bezels I have are the ones made by Solarforce. Perhaps someone that has a P1 and Surefire bezels can chime in to help answer your question.


----------



## creeled (Apr 2, 2012)

Pekka said:


> Any change for an all-aluminum light thermal test for reference?
> Also, did you try a Surefire-compatible bezel ring on it? The threads make it look so that the Xeno bezel ring might just fit in...



Nice review! Thanks! 

I' am interested too, wonder what's the temperature on all-aluminum flashlight with the same parameter.


----------



## Kestrel (Apr 2, 2012)

Very good review, great work on the temperature issues particularly. :thumbsup:


----------



## Sgt. LED (Apr 3, 2012)

Well this very well done review finished it off.
Ordered from sbflashlights.

Held out as long as I could, thankfully a US dealer got them in just in time!
Plus I have lots of lower powered Malkoff's to pick from.


----------



## Roood (Apr 7, 2012)

Im kinda having second thoughts on getting a P1 all of a sudden. Heatsink issues, different threading threw me off.


----------



## Rees (Apr 7, 2012)

I edc my yellow one now. I know it not as lego-able and has some heat issues but for inspecting things in a small space using it for a few mins at a time my xml dropin seems fine. I would still be intested in a test of a regular metal host though for a comparison to how well the heat is transfered.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Apr 7, 2012)

Sand back end of bezel, you know not the end with glass.
Then
Sand top of body equal amount. 

Guess what that does? 
*** end of drop-in contacts that metal tube and eliminates the need for a spring.
Heatsinking improves markedly.

Not a total fix but it IS better.


----------



## ^Gurthang (Apr 8, 2012)

Sarge,

Great tweak for the P1, thanks.


----------



## trooplewis (Apr 14, 2012)

Nice review, I have one on order in yellow, with the "new" drop-in that solarforce-sales has on their website. Looking forward to trying it out!


----------



## Mylt1 (Apr 17, 2012)

solarforce use to have a 3 pack deal on these but i cant seem to find it now. anyone know if they still do it or where i can find it?


----------



## LilKevin715 (Apr 17, 2012)

Mylt1 said:


> solarforce use to have a 3 pack deal on these but i cant seem to find it now. anyone know if they still do it or where i can find it?


FYI its actually a 4-pack containing all the colors. Since I can't provide a direct link (forum rules)...

Go to SF Sales website and navigate to: Products -> Flashlight Body -> Select P1 from the drop down menu.


----------



## Mylt1 (Apr 18, 2012)

LilKevin715 said:


> FYI its actually a 4-pack containing all the colors. Since I can't provide a direct link (forum rules)...
> 
> Go to SF Sales website and navigate to: Products -> Flashlight Body -> Select P1 from the drop down menu.


thanks. for some reason i couldnt get to that page. not sure what the problem was.


----------



## iron potato (Apr 21, 2012)

Thanks for the information regarding the heat issue with hard driven XM-L with it, well I think I'll use it with a low driven XM-L (1.5A on High) for my Yellow P1, or XP-G dropin.


----------



## dennis07921 (Apr 22, 2012)

Why spend $29 for the P1 when you can get an aluminum L2 for $16? Doesn't make sense to me to pay nearly double for an inferior light.


----------



## LV426 (Apr 22, 2012)

dennis07921 said:


> an inferior light


Not necessary, it depends on the application, doesn't it?


----------



## dennis07921 (Apr 22, 2012)

True but it is still almost twice the money. And the weight difference is small. The aluminum surefire 6P is 5.2 ounces and the nitrolon G2 is 4.1 which is not much. I am assuming the Solarforce would be similar.


----------



## RI Chevy (Apr 22, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 P60 Host*

I have to admit. I am not completely sold on this host. I do own several Solarforce hosts that I am satisfied with. But I am a little skeptical on this P1. The only advantage that I can see is the possible abrasion resistance of the P1 over the standard aluminum HAIII host. But the heat sinking issue has me a little concerned. And the lack of legoability. That is why I have put off any purchase of this host for the time being. For the record, I do own a few Surefire Nitrolon hosts that I have confidence in. Go figure.


----------



## LilKevin715 (Apr 24, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 P60 Host*

The design in terms of heatsinking is definately flawed as noted in my review. Please note though that my thermal testing was a bit extreme. Under normal circumstances I wouldn't expect anyone in their right mind to run a fully driven XM-L @ 2.8-3A+ for 30 minutes straight in the P1, thats just asking for trouble. Since there is a considerable lack of metal mass for heatsinking compared to a regular P60 host (same concept applies to a Nitrolon host, assuming nitrolon head) it does not make logical sense to run a high-powered dropin for extended runs on high.

The P1 isn't for everyone. I would recommend the host for certain usage scenarios combined with a proper dropin (~1.5A or less for extended runs). My modification does help mitigate the thermal issues somewhat, but looking at the big picture the lack of metal mass means compromises have to be made. Whether or not the compromises are worth it is up to the individual and their usage scenarios.


----------



## iron potato (Apr 24, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 P60 Host*

P1 with XM-L @ 1A is awesome, I like it a lot, while I run XM-L @ 2.5A in L2P (which is very hot-to-the touch on extended High )


----------



## chewy78 (Apr 24, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 P60 Host*

i would definitely run this host when its much cooler out in the winter below freezing with xml dropins getting more than 1.5 amps just to be safe. in warmer temps, an aluminum host.


----------



## RI Chevy (Apr 24, 2012)

*Re: Solarforce P1 P60 Host*



LilKevin715 said:


> The design in terms of heatsinking is definately flawed as noted in my review. Please note though that my thermal testing was a bit extreme. Under normal circumstances I wouldn't expect anyone in their right mind to run a fully driven XM-L @ 2.8-3A+ for 30 minutes straight in the P1, thats just asking for trouble. Since there is a considerable lack of metal mass for heatsinking compared to a regular P60 host (same concept applies to a Nitrolon host, assuming nitrolon head) it does not make logical sense to run a high-powered dropin for extended runs on high.
> 
> The P1 isn't for everyone. I would recommend the host for certain usage scenarios combined with a proper dropin (~1.5A or less for extended runs). My modification does help mitigate the thermal issues somewhat, but looking at the big picture the lack of metal mass means compromises have to be made. Whether or not the compromises are worth it is up to the individual and their usage scenarios.



Well stated! :thumbsup: It is probably fine with a real good XP-G type drop in.


----------



## aleve90 (Apr 27, 2012)

Thanks for the review. Been looking at the green model. I'll hold off for a bit to see how the P1 series does.


----------



## ^Gurthang (Apr 27, 2012)

I'm thinking of using a P1 as a glovebox light. I'll use an older XRE drop-in and plain ol' CR123s, should be good for years and the GFRP shell will withstand all the bumping around.


----------



## Phaserburn (Apr 27, 2012)

I run an M61WL in my P1. No heat issues at all with extended runtimes.


----------



## B0wz3r (Dec 1, 2012)

Kevin, thanks for the awesome review! :twothumbs I've been researching the P1 for a while now and I've decided to get one. 

The appeal for me is the lighter weight. The published weights of SF's different hosts states 68 g for the P1, with the other popular AL bodied hosts averaging about 90 g. 22 g is not quite an oz. I know that seems nit-picky, but for my use, it's important because I'm going to be helmet mounting mine for biking, and you really feel extra weight on your head. Especially for longer times, like biking, when you can be out for several hours. 

I'll be getting one of these for it:

http://www.customlites.com/P60-Cree-XM-L-90-High-CRI-P60-XML-HIcri.htm

specs:


S6 flux 7A2 tint
3200k tint warm white
Voltage range: 2.8v-6volts max
Levels 1 -3- 3S - 5
High (100%)
Low / Med / High (100% - 30% - 5%)
Low/ High / Strobe
Moonlight 1% / Low 5% / Med 30% / med high 40% / High
Choice of Smooth or OP reflector
Brass pill
Thermal epoxy
500 lumens OTF
Since it's for biking, I'm going to get one of the strobe capable ones, and since I'm helmet mounting for biking, I'm sure heat will be less of an issue.


----------



## LV426 (Dec 1, 2012)

B0wz3r, with a 500lm XM-L, I'll absolutely go for an all alu. light - my experience with Solarforce's low volt XM-L and XP-G in a P1, is that they run really hot.


----------



## RI Chevy (Dec 1, 2012)

Apparently now there is a "new" P1D all aluminum HA3 host that looks somewhat similar to this fiber type P1 host. That might be a better option for some. I have heard that it is a very nice looking host that was milled with nice tight tolerances and lines.


----------



## Blitzwing (Dec 1, 2012)

I run my P1 with an xpg for long periods and it is fine insofar as heat goes.


----------



## B0wz3r (Dec 10, 2012)

LV426 said:


> B0wz3r, with a 500lm XM-L, I'll absolutely go for an all alu. light - my experience with Solarforce's low volt XM-L and XP-G in a P1, is that they run really hot.



I understand the concern; I was worried about potential heat issues too. I found a review somewhere, though I can't remember where, where someone did a temperature test of a P1 with a pretty high powered module in it, and they concluded that while the host did get not just warm but hot, that the module could take it because the host never got hotter than a certain temp, even after 40+ min. of continual burn. I think the temp they recorded was 200º F, but I don't remember for certain.

My primary use for this light is going to be biking, and I won't be running it on max much, and Nailbenders come with really nice copper taping to use on the module to assist heat sinking for the module. Just use the appropriate amount to get a snug fit of the module into the head of the host. I recently got one of their low voltage models with an HCRI XPG-2 for my Solarforce L2R and the taping works very well to assist the heat sinking.

I saw the P1D, but I'm not willing to carry that extra oz. on my head. I can feel the difference in 1 oz. of weight in a light when it's on my helmet. I'm also liking the polymer housing for toughness for biking.


----------



## PCC (Dec 11, 2012)

B0wz3r said:


> ...and Nailbenders come with really nice copper taping to use on the module to assist heat sinking for the module. Just use the appropriate amount to get a snug fit of the module into the head of the host. I recently got one of their low voltage models with an HCRI XPG-2 for my Solarforce L2R and the taping works very well to assist the heat sinking.


While its true that the copper tape helps with getting the heat out of an aluminum host, that's not really the case here. The copper tape is typically wrapped around the reflector and makes contact with the inside bore of the host to transfer the heat away from the driver and emitter. In the case of the P1 wrapping the drop-in like that conducts the heat into the polymer body. The polymer body does a terrible job of removing the heat. A better idea would be to use a short piece of copper tubing to bridge the gap between the end of the brass pill and the end of the aluminum sleeve. That'll give the heat somewhere to go.


----------



## B0wz3r (Dec 14, 2012)

PCC said:


> While its true that the copper tape helps with getting the heat out of an aluminum host, that's not really the case here. The copper tape is typically wrapped around the reflector and makes contact with the inside bore of the host to transfer the heat away from the driver and emitter. In the case of the P1 wrapping the drop-in like that conducts the heat into the polymer body. The polymer body does a terrible job of removing the heat. A better idea would be to use a short piece of copper tubing to bridge the gap between the end of the brass pill and the end of the aluminum sleeve. That'll give the heat somewhere to go.



I thought the P1 had an full aluminum internal structure, for both the head and body, that was covered with the polymer? Everything I've read about it so far seems to indicate there is a metal to metal connection between the head and the body. Is that not the case?


----------



## LV426 (Dec 14, 2012)

No, there are only a metal tube approx in the "battery compartment" - it works more as a electrical path than for cooling.


----------



## B0wz3r (Dec 14, 2012)

LV426 said:


> No, there are only a metal tube approx in the "battery compartment" - it works more as a electrical path than for cooling.



Okay, thanks... I was confused... 

I guess I'll stick with my old Jet-III Pro ST on my bike helmet for now. It's still the best combination of weight to output with enough throw of any light I've got right now.


----------



## PCC (Dec 15, 2012)

Hey, you're in the SFBA, I'm on the Peninsula side and work mid-Pen. I can show you my P1 if you want to see one up close and personal.


----------



## LilKevin715 (Dec 15, 2012)

B0wz3r said:


> I thought the P1 had an full aluminum internal structure, for both the head and body, that was covered with the polymer? Everything I've read about it so far seems to indicate there is a metal to metal connection between the head and the body. Is that not the case?



B0wz3r, you didn't see all the pictures posted in the first post of this thread? Or all the text in my review? Geez I must be doing something wrong or its something else...


----------



## RI Chevy (Dec 16, 2012)

Your review was excellent LilKevin! Sometimes we just don't get back to reading the first posts. It has happened to me a time or two. Excellent write-up though! :thumbsup: Very informative.


----------



## SimulatedZero (Dec 28, 2012)

So, does anybody know of a steel bezel ring that might fit this particular host?


----------



## LilKevin715 (Jan 3, 2013)

SimulatedZero said:


> So, does anybody know of a steel bezel ring that might fit this particular host?



As far as I know of there are none as the threading is different. Unless its for looks, I don't see the need for a stainless steel bezel as the head extends past the bezel to protect the lens from impacts (bezel is recessed inside the head).


----------



## SimulatedZero (Jan 3, 2013)

LilKevin715 said:


> As far as I know of there are none as the threading is different. Unless its for looks, I don't see the need for a stainless steel bezel as the head extends past the bezel to protect the lens from impacts (bezel is recessed inside the head).



The only reason I ask is because I have already shattered one lens. The head has no reinforcing metal inside and flexes from hard impacts or pressure.


----------



## LilKevin715 (Jan 3, 2013)

Try a hardcoat acrylic lens from flashlightlens.com:thumbsup:. Glass is great for light transmittance and scratch resistance, but not so great for impact resistance. I've pretty much replaced all the lenses in my lights from stock glass lenses to hardcoat acrylic and I've never looked back. The only slight drawback IMO is you have to use cleaners specific for acrylic/plastics with hardcoat acrylic lenses such as Novus.


----------



## LV426 (Jan 4, 2013)

I agree with LilKevin, try an acrylic lens!


----------



## SimulatedZero (Jan 4, 2013)

I'll have to give that a shot as soon as this lens breaks . To be honest though, I am really in love with the light transmission from this glass lens. Lighthound was out of the Solarforce lenses so I bought the Surefire G2 UCL lens for a couple of bucks extra. I didn't actually expect to see a difference in intensity from just swapping out the glass, but I was pleasantly surprised when the light was all of a sudden slightly brighter. Thanks for the suggestion guys.


----------



## B0wz3r (Jan 5, 2013)

LilKevin715 said:


> B0wz3r, you didn't see all the pictures posted in the first post of this thread? Or all the text in my review? Geez I must be doing something wrong or its something else...



No, your review is awesome... Just me brain-fading, that's all.


----------



## Dogdare (Feb 28, 2014)

Great review, thank you. Sorry for digging up a year old thread, but I just started considering the P1 for hosting a UV drop-in. I want a host that is very physically and visually different so that I, and especialy my 8 year old son, always know when we're grabbing a UV light as oppposed to a visible spectrum light. I figured a yellow GFRP body would be about as different a host as possible.

Any new thoughts now that you've had this light for a while now?


Herb


----------

