# Maglite 6C Mod



## witake (Nov 7, 2005)

I've got a stock standard 6C cell maglite running off alkalines. I'm looking for a simple, straightforward mod i.e. straight swapping to a high output bulb, aluminium reflector, glass lens and and doing nothing else. Is this possible and can anyone recommend what to purchase and were from? I live in Australia. I've been reading about the WA bulbs in this forum but I'm utterly confused as soon as "volts" and "amps" etc are mentioned along with bi-pin and potted bulbs.

Can someone please give a beginner like me some straight forward advice? Thanks


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## tch_popeye (Nov 7, 2005)

Howdy Witake:

I've been playing with the exact same mod, and am a somehat newbie to this forum also.

My best option so far has been to work on the Roar of the Pelican basis (you'll find lot's of stuff called 'ROP'). Our 6C is perfect, because 6 rechargeable NiMH cells will make the perfect voltage (7.2V nominal) to overdrive the bulbs for the (nominal 6V) lead acid variant of the Pelican Big D. These are potted bulbs, and should fit right into the stock holder.

So, you're on the right track, in my opinion. The bulbs are purchased in a 11W / 24W pair. If you only want to play with the low output (LO) bulb, you could probably keep your stock lens and reflector - it's on the edge of the recommended 10W limit, so you wouldn't want to have it on continuously for too long. It sounds like this is already a wicked improvement over stock.

On the other hand, I've ordered the upgrade lens and aluminum reflectors from the same vendors that are recommended in other threads. I expect my 6 pcs. 4500 mAh NiMH C-size cells to arrive in the post this week, and will let you know how it goes!

(amazingly, I had the presence of mind to NOT put the Pelican bulbs into my alkaline setup, despite my eagerness to see them work. In all liklihood, the nominal 9V produced by those cells would have blown the bulb instantly!)

Have fun, and Welcome to CPF.

-Trev


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## KevinL (Nov 8, 2005)

Good call. The ROP lights merely require six high-current-capable cells, how the owners/builders/designers wish to arrange it is 100% up to their creativity. 

The basic instructions can be found here: http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=9 but feel free to use your own 6C NiMH batteries. One thing though, the high output bulb demands a lot of current, so paying for high quality, high current cells is most definitely a wise idea.

I cleaned up a friend's 6C Mag over the weekend, how I was wishing I could refit it to become a ROP, but the switch was marginal and since I wasn't at home I didn't have the necessary tools to strip and clean it.


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## witake (Nov 8, 2005)

Thanks for the advice guys. So basically I just need to buy an aluminium reflector, glass lens, Pelican Big D bulbs and 6 high capacity Nimh C cells and I'll be good to go. My requirements are fairly simple....I don't need to roast marshmallows or set anything alight with my flashlight. I just want something that's more powerful than my stock maglite. Does anyone know if the potted WA bulbs are preferable or just stick to the Big D for simple installation??

Also, I've read a lot of threads about mods like the mag85 etc but there isn't really much information on runtimes and their brightness. My current 6cell Mag may run for about 10 hours but it's only bright for about the first hour (probably even less). If I do this ROP mod, will I only get like 10min at full brightness and crappy output for the next hour or something?? 

Trev, I'd be really interested to see how your flashlight goes and it'll be great if you could post some beamshots before and after conversion. It seems that not many people own a 6C cell Mag in the US because I haven't read any conversions on it yet but it's quite popular in Aust....especially kept in the car. That's the closest thing to a weapon we can carry....no guns, knives, tazers, pepper sprays, extendable batons....nothing....just a trusty Mag.


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## Hookd_On_Photons (Nov 8, 2005)

Potted WA bulbs are rather difficult to obtain.

CPFers have previously organized groupbuys to have a number of WA bulbs potted by Carley. Potted bulbs are offered on B/S/T from time to time. You should be aware that there have been reports of the potted bulbs popping prematurely, which may be due to the potting process.

The Big D is a production item, and is more readily available than potted WA bulbs. At spec, it's supposed to generate 600 lumens, which is pretty close to the output of a Mag60 (01160 WA lamp overdriven at 6.0V).

The brightness and runtime of the ROP mod is highly dependent upon the capabilities of your batteries. Check the NiMH Battery Shootout, a sticky thread in the Batteries forum. Link here:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=79302

There's a discharge graph of Accupower 6000mAH C cells. At 4 amps draw with the high-output Big D bulb, they should hold up at about 1.15 (estimating from the 3A and 5A curves) for a little less than an hour before they start to poop out. The low-output bulb, at 1.5A draw, should be good for a little less than 3 hours before the batteries poop out.

As alway, your mileage may vary.


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## donn (Nov 8, 2005)

Witake,
If your after WA bulbs you should drop Light-Edge an email. I arranged an international delivery to the U.K of 2xreflectors and 2xbulbs a few months ago; no problems.
D.


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## KevinL (Nov 8, 2005)

Hookd_On_Photons said:


> Potted WA bulbs are rather difficult to obtain.
> 
> CPFers have previously organized groupbuys to have a number of WA bulbs potted by Carley. Potted bulbs are offered on B/S/T from time to time. You should be aware that there have been reports of the potted bulbs popping prematurely, which may be due to the potting process.
> 
> ...




agreed. You need high CURRENT, not high-capacity cells, and it seems that the two are mutually exclusive anyway. 

I have had problems finding good, high current C-cells, so what I would have done is put some garden hose, heater hose or rolled paper (my personal favorite) into the 6C Mag, and use six Sub-C cells. Sub-Cs are smaller than C cells, but they handle high currents better if you use things like the Sanyo 3600mAH or GP 3300/3700 high current cells. You can order the GP cells from http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com.


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## tch_popeye (Nov 8, 2005)

Hmmm. Odd, that there should be such a distinction between high capacity and high current cells. I was going along the lines of "the lower the *C* I demand from a cell, then the better it ought to hold a voltage" (not to mention runtime).

Therefore, a 4 A draw from 2500 mAh batteries is a 1.6 C draw, whereas the same current sucked out of a 5500 mAh battery is only 0.73 C.

I *have* seen rechargeable cells which are stated to have superior high current abilities, but still think that the above will factor into the performance.

Witake: I also carry the 6C in my car (and have since 1990!) It's been useful in a number of brute-force applications, like unsticking my parking brake in the winter, etc..  I'm really going to like breathing new photons into my trusty old companion.

-Trev


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## WhiteHot (Nov 8, 2005)

I say go with the ROP mod. I just did this with a 5C mag and it is my new favoriite light. I love being able to use common RC packs and chargers. If you decide to go with the Sub-C's, you may have to add a little spacer but based on what I had to do to get them in my 5C light, it wont be that big of a spacer. This is the thread to the mod of my 5C:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97026


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## Echo63 (Nov 8, 2005)

i would love to build up one of these ROPs but have real trouble getting the glass lens and Aluminium reflector, is there any aussies here who would be able to order the lens, reflector and bulbs and for me to buy the stuff off them ?
just so you know - im in perth WA


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## JimH (Nov 8, 2005)

Ah, a subject near and dear to my heart. My main go-to light when things go bump in the night, or when the dogs decide to go on a recon mission around the neighborhood, is Mag 6C. 

6x5500mAh C cells , WA1111 (light-edge.com has bi-pins or try Litho123 for some potted ones - he usually as extras laying around), aluminum reflector, mineral glass or borofloat lens - bada-bing, bada-boom, 500+ lumens out the front end for well over an hour.


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## Icebreak (Nov 8, 2005)

10 X Intellect 1200 2/3 A @ WA1166 Smoothie.

1000 bulb lumens.:nana: 

---------------

- Jeff


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## NikolaTesla (Nov 8, 2005)

2 of the MagCharger Nicad packs a56nd WA1166, aluminum reflector, Glass lens. Very simple and bright. Those cell packs are around $20. Reflector $20 glass $7. Bulb$7

Good luck


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## Icebreak (Nov 8, 2005)

Trumped. That didn't take long.

NikolaTesla -

Do you know the runtime or have an estimated runtime with your double MC pack against WA1166? I'm guessing an hour or better? These 10 2/3 As give me 33 minutes. It's a sweet, level half hour but just a half hour.

Jim -

Just horsing around with ya. I like that set-up. I think I would like to try it. Thanks for the links.

6Cs are very nice.

----------------------

- Jeff


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## WhiteHot (Nov 9, 2005)

The 2 magcharger packs would be fine in a 6D but we are talking 6C here. We have to be fair now  The Big D SLA HO would be brighter than the 1111 on the same pack, right? And it is a PR base so all he would need is the aluminum reflector and the lens. The configuration with the 1166 would also be more difficult (expensive) from a battery pack/charging standpoint. Would it even be brigher than the Big D bulb? I thought the bulb lumens for the overdriven Big D SLA were over 1000 (like around 1200). The Big D pack comes with the low output builb too for the high runtime apps for < $9. It really is a good deal.


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## KevinL (Nov 9, 2005)

WhiteHot said:



> The 2 magcharger packs would be fine in a 6D but we are talking 6C here. We have to be fair now  The Big D SLA HO would be brighter than the 1111 on the same pack, right? And it is a PR base so all he would need is the aluminum reflector and the lens. The configuration with the 1166 would also be more difficult (expensive) from a battery pack/charging standpoint. Would it even be brigher than the Big D bulb? I thought the bulb lumens for the overdriven Big D SLA were over 1000 (like around 1200). The Big D pack comes with the low output builb too for the high runtime apps for < $9. It really is a good deal.



yeah for a moment I was wondering if some new development had made it possible to stuff D-cell packs into a C-cell body while I was away. Ya can't take anythin' for granted with the rate of change and the effect of Internet Time nowadays :tsk: :tsk: 

The Big D SLA bulb stomps the WA1111. Every time I try to find a use for the 1111, the Big D comes up the winner in light output, convenience, PR base, and availability. The very philosophy behind the ROP was that no soldering, hacking of the switch, and need for bipin sockets. In fact, the ROP was conceived during a time when there were no effective bipin sockets available, AND there was a huge shortage of potted bulbs. It was designed to solve this problem and has apparently gone a little further than that. 

On my high-current NiMH pack, I get 8.4V hot off the charger (incidentally, ROPs can be lit hot on any six-cell config. Seven cells is where you blow bulbs), 7.2-7.4V under load. 1100-1250 bulb raw lumens. Of course, take rerating formulas with a little bit of salt. 

The lower-output 11W bulb in the same pack draws a very conservative 2A and should give you 2+ hours of runtime at least, while still putting out brilliant white light. I am currently running this bulb in my ROP/LE (2x18650 lithium ion) and I am very impressed with the color temperature - it's one of the whitest, if not THE whitest incandescents I've ever seen. It makes my Surefire bulbs look yellow.

If there is enough space in the tailcap (not applicable to all designs, I know the 4D and LE versions do not have enough space), you can even put the lower output lamp in the back so you can exchange them in the field. Beware of hot glass though.. don't change bulbs before they have had time to cool down. Remember these things are $#(!# hot!!  

There is also the Big D alkaline bulb (8W) which draws even less power for extreme runtime applications. I have not tested this bulb but I am guessing it might work.


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## Icebreak (Nov 9, 2005)

double post


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## Icebreak (Nov 9, 2005)

WhiteHot said:


> The 2 magcharger packs would be fine in a 6D but we are talking 6C here. We have to be fair now


 Hmmm. I was wondering about that but NT has done some extraordinary things so I thought he had figured out how to do it. Maybe he did? Frankly, I don't even know what those packs look like.



WhiteHot said:


> snip... And it is a PR base so all he would need is the aluminum reflector and the lens. The configuration with the 1166 would also be more difficult (expensive) from a battery pack/charging standpoint. Would it even be brigher than the Big D bulb? I thought the bulb lumens for the overdriven Big D SLA were over 1000 (like around 1200). The Big D pack comes with the low output builb too for the high runtime apps for < $9. It really is a good deal.


I think it was Phaserburn but it could have been Hooked on Photons that first told us about the BIG Ds. I took note but went another way until Kevin told us about the ROP. He just has a way of posting factually about things he's excited about that causes me to want to be in on the fun. Maybe Phaser was using the NiCad 7.2 lamp but I'm sure Hooked On Photons was using the SLA 6V. If my notes are correct, he had success with 7 cells getting 1029 lumens.

I'm pretty sure the WA1166 is brighter at around 1100 bulb lumens on 11 AAs. These 2/3 As instaflashed a WA166 when I tried 11 in a 6C. 10 works extremely well. My best way to compare the two lamps is like this:

I have a 3C with 6 X 2/3 As in it. Love it because it runs all the 3X123 bulbs beautifully. Fairly small. Nice balance. Cheap to run. Safe. No packs. No holders. Just an acrylic tube. (Maybe I'll call it the Big Kev Phaser) I usually just run a CA1057 and PMR...really pretty beam. When I put a BigD 6V in it well, that's awesome. If I compare that side-by-side with my 6C 10 X 2/3 A WA1166, the 1166 is a clear winner in output and throw.

I hope I haven't gone too far off topic. I think the ROP solution is a very good one if not the best. Jim's solution looks good too. I just wanted to post what I had done with a 6C and report that it performes quite well and, of course, to have a little fun with Jim...'cause my 6C is twice as bright as his.


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## WhiteHot (Nov 9, 2005)

KevinL said:


> The lower-output 11W bulb in the same pack draws a very conservative 2A and should give you 2+ hours of runtime at least, while still putting out brilliant white light. I am currently running this bulb in my ROP/LE (2x18650 lithium ion) and I am very impressed with the color temperature - it's one of the whitest, if not THE whitest incandescents I've ever seen. It makes my Surefire bulbs look yellow.



Check out my beamshots of the BigD SLA LO vs. the CL-1499 in a 2C form factor. It was using 2x123's so I am assuming there is some voltage sag but I really liked the 1499 better (whiter, tighter spot). Last pic in post #76. I also have beamshots of the ROP 5C, ROP 2C low output on 2x18650's, and CA1499 on 3x123's in post #68.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94740

I think you will be surprised about the whiteness and brightness of the 1499.


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## witake (Nov 10, 2005)

Thanks to everyone!! I've decided to go with the ROP mod. I've dropped a message to Light-edge enquiring about shipping of an LOP reflector, ordered the glass lens and made some further enquiries about the Big D bulb. It's hard living at the bottom of the world here in Australia!!

Now all I need are some Nimh batteries and a charger. I've been reading in the threads about high current and high capacity batteries? What's the difference and can anyone recommend any particular batteries? There are some 4500MAH C-cells I've seen on Batterystation.com but it doesn't make any mention of currents. What kind of specs should I be looking out for?


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## KevinL (Nov 10, 2005)

:thumbsup:

Metal reflectors can be had from the Sandwich Shoppe, I forget the URL but he has one forum on this board, you could check there. My recommendation is MOP cammed if you can't decide what to start with. As you become more familiar with the various choices you can then make a better decision as to exactly what you want. MOP cammed is my favorite, it offers the ability to tweak focus just like a normal Mag, and produces a smooth beam very akin to a Surefire. 

High capacity cells = bigger mAH number, more juice. 

High current cells = tend to have smaller mAH number because they are optimized to deliver their power very quickly (high current, after all), with a slight penalty to how much juice they can store. 

If all else fails, try the Sub-C cells from cheapbatterypacks.com. You may need a little bit of rolled paper to sleeve them properly. 

Which state are you in? I am probably 5-8 hours away from you by plane, so I have dealt with some of the logistical issues as well. Getting parts was a major, major nightmare.


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## WhiteHot (Nov 10, 2005)

witake said:


> I've decided to go with the ROP mod. I've dropped a message to Light-edge enquiring about shipping of an LOP reflector, ordered the glass lens and made some further enquiries about the Big D bulb.



Make sure the reflector will fit the BigD bulb. I know someone else got a reflector from lightedge that had the smaller hole for the WA bipins in it.


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## witake (Nov 13, 2005)

Finally, I've located all the components to make the mod. I ended up getting a cammed LOP reflector from Fivemega. 

The last purchase is the batteries. I've read in other posts that you shouldn't power up the flashlight straight after the Nimh's have been charged because the higher volt could blow the bulb. Does this apply to the ROP mod as well?? The last thing I want is to blow the bulb for my first mod!!


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## webley445 (Nov 19, 2005)

After reading this post I want to try the Big D too, but I don't have a multi cell C body. Will 6 nuhm AA's in a D cell body work too? and which bulb should I use, the recharge or alk?


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## KevinL (Nov 20, 2005)

Yes, six AAs in a D will work. That'll give you the 2D version as stated in my cookbook.

I recommend you buy CBP1650 cells from www.cheapbatterypacks.com for maximum output, because normal AA cells cannot handle the high output 24W bulb very well. The 11W low output is fine on normal cells. 

Get the rechargeable version of the bulbs.


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## WhiteHot (Nov 20, 2005)

Make sure you get the SLA version of the bulb. There are two kinds.


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## webley445 (Nov 21, 2005)

What kind of brightness can you expect from the two bulbs?


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## jwl (Nov 26, 2005)

Would this same ROP type setup work in a 6D Maglite? 

How many milliamps would be required per cell and not fry the bulb?

As far as the bulbs go, I was looking at the Pelican web site and there are two different replacement bulbs for the Big D rechargeable.

#3853 for the 6D NiCad approx 7.2V
or
#3854 for the Lead Acid battery 6.0 V

If I'm going to use 6D batteries (~9V) wouldn't it be safer to use the #3853? :thinking: 

Thanks.


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## witake (Nov 29, 2005)

From my limited understanding, your 6D Mag should be fine for the ROP mod as well. You'll need to get a glass lens, aluminium reflector and the #3854 bulbs. You'll also need to use 1.2v high current rechargeable Nimh's. I think the 7.2v from the 6D cells will overdrive the 6v bulbs just fine. But you cannot use alkalines in this setup. I'm not too sure if you can use alkalines with the #3853 bulbs. But since this setup will chew through the batteries if used often, wouldn't you rather invest in some rechargeables??


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## witake (Dec 6, 2005)

I just wanted to give everyone an update on my ROP mod. I finally got all the parts and it's friggin awesome!! Muahaha. I asked my brother to bring out his stock mod to compare cos I told him I thought something was wrong with my torch. When we both lit it up his reaction was "What the f*ck?!?!" and I couldn't get the grin off my face.

I need to say a few thanks to KevinL, tch popeye and Whitehot for answering all my questions re this mod, Fivemega for supplying the LOP reflector, Lighthound for the bulbs (and numerous other flashlights I've bought from him.....fantastic customer service) and a special thanks to Modamag who graciously offered to buy the nimh batteries from Amondotech and send them to me because they wouldn't accept any international orders (I'm in Australia).

The only thing that tops my flashlight is this forum and the amount of help I've received!! Thanks all!!


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## KevinL (Dec 6, 2005)

witake said:


> I just wanted to give everyone an update on my ROP mod. I finally got all the parts and it's friggin awesome!! Muahaha. I asked my brother to bring out his stock mod to compare cos I told him I thought something was wrong with my torch. When we both lit it up his reaction was "What the f*ck?!?!" and I couldn't get the grin off my face.
> 
> I need to say a few thanks to KevinL, tch popeye and Whitehot for answering all my questions re this mod, Fivemega for supplying the LOP reflector, Lighthound for the bulbs (and numerous other flashlights I've bought from him.....fantastic customer service) and a special thanks to Modamag who graciously offered to buy the nimh batteries from Amondotech and send them to me because they wouldn't accept any international orders (I'm in Australia).
> 
> The only thing that tops my flashlight is this forum and the amount of help I've received!! Thanks all!!



      

Seeing someone successfully build one of these and then proceed to roast everybody else around them with the searing light output is reward enough 

For folks who have never seen what a super incan is capable of, this is a treat. 



To others: I must remind you folks that these configurations DO NOT support alkalines at all. Stick to my recipe please, if you want to experience the same kind of rewarding results. By the time you understand when and what you can change in the recipe and why, then you are qualified to do so.


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## WhiteHot (Dec 6, 2005)

:thumbsup:


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## jwl (Dec 7, 2005)

KevinL - For a 6D cell Mag running 6D cells which batteries (brand, Mah) would you recommend? I'd rather stay with larger cells for a longer run time. 

Could I use the same cells on the 11W bulb as with the 24W?


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## KevinL (Dec 8, 2005)

Hmm, good point. I've never actually investigated D cell rechargeables, but I trust stuff by Sanyo, Maha, and Gold Peak (GP). You might want to check out those manufacturers, I believe all 3 put out D cell rechargeables. 

You can switch bulbs without needing to change cells, which is one of the fun parts about this light. I do it all the time.


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## Lurveleven (Dec 8, 2005)

jwl, CTA 12000mAh cells are very good. Accupower 11500mAh cells are also very good. Those are the two best D cells I know of.

Sigbjoern


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## jwl (Dec 8, 2005)

If I run (6) D-size 12,000mAh cells don't I have to worry about to much current (mA) going to the bulb?

How many mA are you guys running thru these bulbs?
I don't want to spend money on batteries that are going to fry the bulb seconds after I hit the switch.


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## KevinL (Dec 9, 2005)

mA doesn't matter, voltage does. We've basically assessed that the bulb is safe with six NiMH cells. Bulbs self-regulate their own current, which incidentally has nothing to do with the mAH rating on the outside of batteries.


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## jwl (Dec 9, 2005)

So if I get 6,000mAh batteries instead of 12,000mAh batteries I just won't get as long of run time, right? (Probably a dumb question but I'm new to this stuff)


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## MSI (Dec 9, 2005)

That is correct.


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## Niteowl (Dec 10, 2005)

I've ordered two of the 6C mags today. The accumulation phase begins. Takes me awhile to get all the bits and pieces together. 

witake, what cells specifically did you get?

This will be my first venture into rechargables.


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## witake (Dec 10, 2005)

Hi Niteowl,

I got 6 x Titanium 5000mAh cells from Amondotech. These cells work fine for me and the Titanium cells are supposed to be quite good. 

http://www.techchallenge.com/page2.html

That link only compares AA batteries but hopefully the quality also applies to C cells as well. Stay away from Powerizer brand batteries.


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## Radio (May 2, 2006)

Let me preface this by saying I found this thread AFTER I lit my light. I have the Pelican SLA High bulb in my 6D mag with mineral glass lens and metal reflector and have been using it for the last hour, gets pretty warm around the head and VERY bright. No rechargeables so it has been running on alkalines and SEEMS to be working fine. I see here that people say NOT to use alkalines but mine is working. What did I do wrong?


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## 91101 (May 2, 2006)

Radio said:


> Let me preface this by saying I found this thread AFTER I lit my light. I have the Pelican SLA High bulb in my 6D mag with mineral glass lens and metal reflector and have been using it for the last hour, gets pretty warm around the head and VERY bright. No rechargeables so it has been running on alkalines and SEEMS to be working fine. I see here that people say NOT to use alkalines but mine is working. What did I do wrong?


You didn't do anything "wrong". The ROP will burn up the alkaline batteries pretty fast because of the ~4amp draw and bulb life will be reduced because of the amount of overdrive, 9V with the alkalines 7.2V with the NiMh. 
I bet that thing is really white...:lolsign: I run mine with 7aa NiMH at ~8.4v and that's pretty impressive...


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## Radio (May 2, 2006)

Oh Yes, Bright and White, very nice, I'm surprised it didn't instaflash, I've got a D size dummy cell, I'll throw it in to calm it down, what would be recommended for D rechargeables? I really like the idea of alkaline as this was going to go in the truck to replace the 4D mag with the diamond drop in as the breakdown self defence light, The 6D is really a weapon! If I run rechargeables in the truck they will probably be dead when I do need them. It will be interesting to see how long the bulb lasts, come to think of it the 6D alkalines at a buck each will be the same price as 1 bulb so shortened bulb life doesn't sound quite so bad now does it?


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## WhiteHot (May 2, 2006)

Time out. The alkalines can't supply the needed 4 amps. They will sag really low and not provide anywhere near 9V. Test pack voltage and current under load. That will tell you the whole story.


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## jwl (May 3, 2006)

Radio - my ROP HI ran fine on alkylines, just not quite as bright as NIMH. I'm using the CTA 12,000Mah D-cells and get right at 3 hrs run time. A little warning though, if you run much over 1 hour continous the nipple on the end of the bulb gets hot enough to deform (melt). If you do a search for threads started by JWL you will find several topics about the ROP on alkylines, others have done it with no ill effects.


My ROP results


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## Radio (May 3, 2006)

Here are the results from my Fluke 77 meter, 3.9 amps at start dropping quickly to 3.74 and then holds steady at 3.74 amps, not bad!!! So I guess the bulb is still being more than adequately overdriven and the alkalines are providing a decent amount of current. Any Ideas? Let me also say that these are new Duracells and so far I have put over 30min of runtime on the light and it does not seem to have put a dent in the batts. Is the current staying up but the voltage sagging? I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to measure the voltage at the bulb. Anybody?


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## WhiteHot (May 3, 2006)

Wow. I am surprised that they are putting that much current out. I am glad that I was wrong  I wonder how a bulb that wasnt quite as demanding would do. Like the NiMH version or even the alkaline verison.


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## jwl (May 3, 2006)

Whitehot - when I ordered my first set of Pelican bulbs I got a mixed package. It had a 6V-24W bulb and a 7.2V-11W bulb. The 3853-L (7.2V-11W) worked just fine, as a matter of fact it was pretty white since the alkalines weren't having any trouble driving it.

Wrong bulbs in package thread


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## NotRegulated (May 26, 2006)

*Re: Maglite 6C's available !*

FOUND: 
The discontinued, hard to get, Mag-lite 6C. 

As of 4pm PST a company called The Outdoor World in Santa Cruz, CA has 8 of them left in stock. $21.99 each.

Credit the find to CPF member *Slinco*.

Link here: http://www.theoutdoorworld.com/products2.cfm?ID=2403&nav_chooser=category


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## Icebreak (May 27, 2006)

I've finally got some confidence after 6 cycles that this 9 Gold Peak 2200 mAh 4/5 Sub C running 1185 in a 6C is stable. Terrifically white. I'm sure I'm on the edge.


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## andrewwynn (May 27, 2006)

can be no doubt (on the edge).. get a current measurement at the tailcap, i'm extremely curious what kind of voltage/power you are running on that lamp.


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## Icebreak (May 27, 2006)

11.79 After two minutes of use. This isn't active current. Just measured at the tailcap.


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## CanDo (Jun 5, 2006)

Congratulations Witake! :goodjob:


KevinL said:


> To others: I must remind you folks that these configurations DO NOT support alkalines at all. Stick to my recipe please, if you want to experience the same kind of rewarding results. By the time you understand when and what you can change in the recipe and why, then you are qualified to do so.



Gee, well thanks for crushing my hopes and dreams :duck:. Is there any similar sort of thing that can be done with rechargeable AA's? I have no problem spending a bit of money if it's towards a high quality tool (I consider torches tools as well), however, I just can't bring myself to spend anything on batteries :sigh:.
How well do these super mags stack up against, say, your typical '1,000,000 candlepower' spotlight from walmart?


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## andrewwynn (Jun 5, 2006)

yes what he said about alkaline.. look at energizer.com or duracell.com and see what the current ratings are. You are not getting anywhere near 9V to the lamp.. that's just going to get sucked down really low.. i think the max recommended on a C alkaline is 2A.. alka are not meant for current that's for sure. 

-awr


To answer your question about super lights vs '1MCP'...






beamshot to 400' with a "Mag138"





same tree with a typical 1MCP or 2MCP.. oops those definitely need some 'air quotes'.. 





X990.. they call it '7MCP'. 





And the baddest hand-held light i'm aware of.. the larryK14.. 14,000 lumen.

-awr


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## CanDo (Jun 6, 2006)

Wow, thanks for that very definitive answer! 
Ok, I'm hooked. It will probably be months before I can actually build one, but it will be haunting me until I do.

So, From http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=9, it mentions "2D - with six NiMH AA batteries inside. You will need a 6AA to 2D holder, or 2 x 3AA-to-D holders. Use high quality AA NiMH batteries like Sanyo 2300/2500mAH or CBP1650" I _think_ this is the cheapest way to go, but am unsure. What sort of performance could you expect with a setup like this/do you think I could squeeze 20 min. of good light out of it?
The first google hit for high capacity NiMH D put 8 at $90..... A bit more than I'm willing to spend.
Who knows, by the time that the batteries, charger, and holder(s) stack up, AA's may cost just as much.

So, using 6AA's and 6D's you'll get the same light output, and the 6D's will last much longer (and would be a much larger torch)....


Ok, sorry, one more dumb question, Sorry. What exactly is a Mag138 as opposed to a MagROP or Mag85? I've been having a tricky time finding these sorts of answers. 

Hopefully my next post about these will be several months down the road and "wow, this thing is awesome"
Thanks


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