# Maglite XL50 LED Flashlight Review



## Robin24k (Oct 14, 2010)

LED-Resource has posted our review of the Maglite XL50 LED Flashlight! Click here to read our review.



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*Key Specifications*

Brightness: 104 lumens high, 26 lumens low, 104 lumens strobe
Runtime: 8h 45m high, 36h low
Battery: 3 x AAA
Length: 4.8″
Diameter: 1″
Weight with Batteries: 3.68 oz.
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
MSRP: $29.99


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## Robin24k (Oct 14, 2010)

Post reserved for updates to the review.


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## Chicago X (Oct 14, 2010)

Great review, thanks !!! :thumbsup:


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## alpg88 (Oct 14, 2010)

wow, i had no idea they came out with xl50.

looks to me like basicly xl100 minus motion control, and $20 or so less.


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## jaws revenge (Oct 14, 2010)

Great review

When the light is already on (high), how do you switch to low? 2 clicks, or that only works when the light is off?


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## PCC (Oct 14, 2010)

Very interesting. I was wondering if the light pre-flashes going to low since you have to double-click the button? Is there a delay turning the light on high?


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## TomH (Oct 14, 2010)

Why oh why do they insist on using the 3AAA format?! If I wanted a light that used 3AAA batteries (which i do not!), there are so many cheap chinese lights designed with that form factor that it would probably be impossible to list them all. This light would have been *much* better had it been designed to use either 1 or 2 AA batteries instead.

Another swing, another miss! :thumbsdow


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## Robin24k (Oct 14, 2010)

alpg88 said:


> wow, i had no idea they came out with xl50.


Consider this a sneak preview...it should be in stores soon. 



jaws revenge said:


> Great review
> 
> When the light is already on (high), how do you switch to low? 2 clicks, or that only works when the light is off?


You need to turn it off, consecutive button pushes are only recognized when you first turn it on.



PCC said:


> Very interesting. I was wondering if the light pre-flashes going to low since you have to double-click the button? Is there a delay turning the light on high?


Yes, there would be a pre-flash because high is briefly engaged. There is no delay with high, one press and it is 100% (unlike the XL100, where there is a short fade-in effect).


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## Monocrom (Oct 14, 2010)

Still no lanyard attachment. :shakehead


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## jabe1 (Oct 14, 2010)

Great review, looks promising, but...

I'm still waiting for the ML100.


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## T45 (Oct 14, 2010)

TomH said:


> Why oh why do they insist on using the 3AAA format?! If I wanted a light that used 3AAA batteries (which i do not!), there are so many cheap chinese lights designed with that form factor that it would probably be impossible to list them all. This light would have been *much* better had it been designed to use either 1 or 2 AA batteries instead.
> 
> Another swing, another miss! :thumbsdow



Hmmm....with all the amazing brain power and creativity on CPF, someone, somewhere could come up with a battery adapter to fit an 18650. Is the problem with the 3AAA format just because so many cheap and poorly made lights have that format as a power source? I passed on the XL100, but I just might get a XL50 in some other color besides black.


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## Retinator (Oct 14, 2010)

Sounds ok to me. I swore never to return to the 3-AAA format long ago, but the Xl100 drew me back in. Just get a brick of 12.

I thought that the XL100 was overpriced and the motion control was great only when you could see the mode you were trying to activate. 

26 lumens is a tad high for my tastes as a low on the '50.

Hmm may have to try one of these when they come out here.

The focusing on the 100 (same here I'm guessing' didn't impress me. It's either perfect beam or donut hole (same as all mags I suppose). I just think that focusing is overrated.


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## PCC (Oct 14, 2010)

T45 said:


> Hmmm....with all the amazing brain power and creativity on CPF, someone, somewhere could come up with a battery adapter to fit an 18650.


If only it were that easy. The problem is that the battery holder carries both positive and negative to both the tail cap and to the LED. The body of the light only serves to protect the innards from harm and carries no electrical signal at all.


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## Robin24k (Oct 14, 2010)

Not to forget that the 18650 is much too large to fit. You need to use a 14500 or 17500.



Retinator said:


> The focusing on the 100 (same here I'm guessing' didn't impress me. It's either perfect beam or donut hole (same as all mags I suppose). I just think that focusing is overrated.


I wouldn't say I use the focusing feature too often, but it is nice to have. A quarter turn is about all you need, and there won't be a donut hole if you don't turn too much. However, the key advantage is that it allows you to remove the head for complete flood, which I do occasionally use.


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## Black Rose (Oct 14, 2010)

Not keen on the 3xAAA aspect, but it does use a Rebel LED, so I might give this one a shot whenever it hits the stores here.


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## TomH (Oct 15, 2010)

T45 said:


> Is the problem with the 3AAA format just because so many cheap and poorly made lights have that format as a power source?


 

Not at all. I'm not a big fan of AAA powered lights anyway, but those that use 3 just seem stupid to me as most AAA batteries are sold in multiples of 4. Having to buy 3 packs of 4 AAAs so as not to have any "left over" is ridiculous.

An adapter, like you said, would make this light ever so much more useful.


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## Lawliet (Oct 15, 2010)

T45 said:


> Is the problem with the 3AAA format just because so many cheap and poorly made lights have that format as a power source?


Those direct drive lights are only an emotional reason.
On the rational side you get about 3,6V*800mAh=2,88Wh from a set of such rechargeables. A single 2400mAh AA does the same in a smaller, more convenient and somewhat cheaper package.


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## JNewell (Oct 15, 2010)

Hmmm, no accelerometer.  It's a relatively complex UI, but curiosity was a large part of why I bought an XL100. This one will probably sell better, though.


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## ampdude (Oct 15, 2010)

Clicking through modes is just not my thing, so I think I'd prefer the XL100.

Never heard of the ML100, sounds interesting.

So since the 3AAA battery carrier completes the circuit path on the XL50, I guess a 18500 battery is out as an option?

I have a huge pile of AAA alkaline batteries and about 5 NiMh AAA's going unused, so I might just have to pick another 3AAA light up one of these days.


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## Robin24k (Oct 15, 2010)

You don't really have to click through modes, to get low, you just click the button twice, and after that, the next click turns the light off. I don't think I was clear enough about turning off the light in my review...will have to update that.

You might be able to use a Li-Ion if you can make your own carrier that feeds + to the tailcap and feeds - from the tailcap to the retaining ring around the LED module. It will probably require some machining skills though.


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## parnass (Oct 15, 2010)

Does the XL-50 tail switch provide a momentary feature when partially depressed? If so, does the momentary action turn on the light at the brightest level?

Thanks.


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## Robin24k (Oct 15, 2010)

No, it's an electronic switch, so it's physically impossible to partially depress it.


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## PCC (Oct 15, 2010)

What happens if you click and hold the switch?


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## Robin24k (Oct 15, 2010)

Nothing, it stays on, and still stays on when you release it.


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## made in china (Oct 17, 2010)

Like others have said, not very thrilled about the 3 aaa aspect, but there are some upsides for me:

-The light is rated for 8+ hours on high, not bad from 3 aaa. Me personally I wouldn't be changing batteries often.

-In a emergency event, AA and D batteries are hard to find. Happened to us here a few years ago, big weather event, power outages, iced over roads. AAA and C cells were still available.

-My work provides all the free batteries I can use if I am using this light at work. 

I really prefer buying US made products. I have a huge political agenda going on, and I am very happy to see Inova and Maglite so well represented on the shelves of brick and mortar stores.
I was hesitant about the XL100, I knew a part of that $42 price tag here was for the motion sensor. If the XL50 comes in at $25 or less, well that's a great deal at 104 lumens.

Batteries are a issue on many types of lights, so it isn't fair to dismiss the XL50 solely on battery selection. Is it ideal? no. But then again I won't buy any flashlight that runs on CR123 or anything else "exotic" (yeah I know around here there's no such thing as an exotic battery, but I like to keep to the traditional battery forms)


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## Monocrom (Oct 17, 2010)

Sorry to say, but Inova was purchased by Nite-Ize.

Nowadays, you can get CR123 cells from any big-name pharmacy. Not cheap, but widely available.


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## DaveG (Oct 18, 2010)

I like the switch adjustment on this one over the motion one on the 100 model also.Looking forward to checking this one out.


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## Chicago X (Oct 18, 2010)

Can the tailcaps be switched from the XL100 to the XL50? Any functions lost?

Thanks. :thumbsup:


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## Robin24k (Oct 18, 2010)

Yup...although not sure why you would want to do that since the rest of the light is identical, and you can't purchase XL50 tailcaps seperately...


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## ama230 (Oct 18, 2010)

I dont like the 3x AAA format but the light is perfect in size and works very well. I had dropped my xl100 when i first got it and broke the accelerometer. The light would still work but just on and off and in the last mode i had adjusted it to before dropping it.

The xl50 should be another bullet proof light that will just work when needed. I love my maglites and the warranty and service is what keeps my service. When I have had a problem, it had always been replaced and was prompt.

The three modes is just about right with UI and if the tailcap switch is smooth when i get mine in, ill be blown away as its very hard to find a smooth clicky.

Ill report back when i get mine as it should be anytime this week.

Thanks for the awesome review robin as you always keep us nerds informed!!!:thumbsup:

lovecpf


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## peterkin101 (Oct 18, 2010)

I haven't set eyes on either this or a XL100 other than via this forum.

The XL100 appeared to be ridiculously complicated, it's a wonder it didn't include a Micro USB to allow Firmware updates. Possibly the only Maglite I will never own...!

Apart from the dubious 3 x AAA Battery choice, the XL50 appears to be a much more practical solution and could allow me to have an economical 'pocket rocket'

So with this Mag are back on the right road.

Roll on MagCharger LED


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## Robin24k (Oct 18, 2010)

Yikes, add shipping, and it comes it to be quite expensive there, even with the coupon code. I think I'll wait for it to arrive at Target or Home Depot...

Glad you enjoyed the review.


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## Monocrom (Oct 19, 2010)

peterkin101 said:


> I haven't set eyes on either this or a XL100 other than via this forum.


 
****'s Sporting Goods carries the XL100. The one out by me is currently out of stock. They have a habit of marking nearly everything just a bit above retail. (At least that's how it seems to me.) When it first came out, I considered buying an XL100. I try to order items off the internet as little as possible, and I wasn't about to pay above retail for one.

The lack of both a clip and a lanyard attachment really killed it for me though.


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## JNewell (Oct 19, 2010)

All the Home Depots around here have the XL100.


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## SaVaGe (Oct 19, 2010)

Great review!!!
didnt know they came out with XL50. time to go to home depot.:thumbsup:


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## Chicago X (Oct 20, 2010)

Robin24k said:


> Yup...although not sure why you would want to do that since the rest of the light is identical, and you can't purchase XL50 tailcaps seperately...



This light makes a nice 'parts' light for my XL100. :thumbsup:


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## jonnyfgroove (Oct 30, 2010)

Thanks for another great review!

Has anyone seen these in a B&M store yet?


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## Robin24k (Oct 30, 2010)

Based on what I've gathered, you should be able to find them on store shelves in early December.


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## oldskoolsmith (Mar 14, 2011)

I love this light, it's just the perfect size and I've always trusted mags for quality.


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## zane2002 (Mar 17, 2011)

I love this site!!! I didn't even know this came out. I have been too busy looking at Fenix, Quark, SF, etc that I forgot about Maglite. I have converted my trusty magmini's to LED and love em. Are they my favorite, probably not but I still keep them around and love the fact that they take AA batteries since my other ones use 123's


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## Ken_B (Mar 25, 2011)

This is an awesome light. Just got one (for $30 at Home Depot) to stand in for my SF G2 while waiting for a bulb replacement. The XL50 needs some kind of anti-roll feature, as Robin24k says in the review, and also some way to attach a lanyard/wrist strap.

Ken


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## lightseeker2009 (Mar 26, 2011)

I just bought this light today. Don't know why but still did
I bought it just because its the latest Maglite LED offering. Never owned the XL100 or any other Maglite LED before.
Well, I am not particularly impressed by it. Why?
You do get smaller, single cell lights that is more powerfull etc, but I knew that before I bought it. 
I compared it to my Olight T15 powered by a 14500. It is brighter than the T15, that while Maglite claims less lumens for the XL50 than Olight claims for its T15... Good for them.
But why advertise it to have a adjustable focus if its worth nothing?? I've seen that the moment you change it to flood you loose some light! I ceiling bounced it, I could clearly see the room getting darker as I changed from spot to flood. The focussing system on my Led Lenser P5 and P14 is working so much better. I did expect more. So I can't see anyone really using this feature. If you want an area light, just ceiling bounce it.

But I'm not knocking down this light completely. At its price, how can you really complain? Its still good value taking into account its warantee etc. But its focussing system? Its a joke. They could have left it out completely...

Also a big reason for me buying it is its runtime. 8 plus hours on high is not bad at all. I get only about an hour on my T15 when using a 14500. 
8 times longer for the same voltage and mah, with more bightness...Impressive, don't know how its done, but its impressive.


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## srfreddy (Mar 26, 2011)

lightseeker2009 said:


> ut an hour on my T15 when using a 14500.
> 8 times longer for the same voltage and mah, with more bightness...Impressive, don't know how its done, but its impressive.


 
I doubt it. ANSI numbers mean that it's gonna have 8 hours to 10% light, and lumens 3 minutes after turnon. I believe that the olights are tested to 50%, and lumens at turn on. If the Mag is brighter at turnon, that probably says that the Mag is losing output fairly quickly.


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## lightseeker2009 (Mar 26, 2011)

. Not a particularly good buy then


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## lightseeker2009 (Mar 26, 2011)

Doing a runtime test now. 55 minutes past and I can report that is is now putting out less light than what it started at. So their claim of 8 hours....
One thing I've noticed is that this is the first light that dont heat up at all. Its as cold as if it was never turned on.


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## Robin24k (Mar 26, 2011)

With alkaline batteries, output will steadily drop with time. It's a characteristic of the battery and not the light, because alkalines don't maintain voltage well. If you use NiMH, you'll get less initially, but more consistent output.


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## srfreddy (Mar 26, 2011)

lightseeker2009 said:


> Doing a runtime test now. 55 minutes past and I can report that is is now putting out less light than what it started at. So their claim of 8 hours....
> One thing I've noticed is that this is the first light that dont heat up at all. Its as cold as if it was never turned on.


 
Thats because the heat transfer is like-wtf? what heat transfer? LED mounted thin metal pill, hollow with electronics inside-not too great for heatsinking.


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## lightseeker2009 (Mar 27, 2011)

Robin24k said:


> With alkaline batteries, output will steadily drop with time. It's a characteristic of the battery and not the light, because alkalines don't maintain voltage well. If you use NiMH, you'll get less initially, but more consistent output.


 
Yes you are right. I also thought of that. I just thought the times quoted on the package is with the Duracells provided.
I don't own NIMH AAA's yet. This is my first AAA light. 
I once read somewhere that AAA Eneloops are not as great in the same way that AA Eneloops are? Is it true? What is the best batteries to get for this light? Or will AAA Eneloops be just fine?


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## Robin24k (Mar 27, 2011)

The specs on the package are with the alkalines provided. Alkaline provides a longer runtime than NiMH because they can be drained further, but most of this is "at the tail end", meaning it's low output.

AAA Eneloops/Duraloops are your best bet. You can't compare AAA to AA.


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## LEDrock (Apr 11, 2011)

lightseeker2009 said:


> Yes you are right. I also thought of that. I just thought the times quoted on the package is with the Duracells provided.
> I don't own NIMH AAA's yet. This is my first AAA light.
> I once read somewhere that AAA Eneloops are not as great in the same way that AA Eneloops are? Is it true? What is the best batteries to get for this light? Or will AAA Eneloops be just fine?


 
How did the rest of your runtime test work out? I'm curious as to how it lasted compared to what the package claims. I'm also thinking of getting my first "non-budget light" and was considering my 'dream light', the Quark 2AA, but am now wondering if the XL50 would do it for me.


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## ScaryFatKidGT (May 31, 2011)

TomH said:


> Not at all. I'm not a big fan of AAA powered lights anyway, but those that use 3 just seem stupid to me as most AAA batteries are sold in multiples of 4. Having to buy 3 packs of 4 AAAs so as not to have any "left over" is ridiculous.
> 
> An adapter, like you said, would make this light ever so much more useful.


Buy a single AAA light .

I just got one and also found that taking the head off makes a perfect flood. I think this is pretty good for $30.


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## KijanOZ (May 31, 2011)

I just purchased one of these XL50's and I have to say, I am more than impressed with it. At only $30, it blew my 4-Cell C Maglite right out of the water - even with the optional 'better' bulb.

I just wanted to point out that the light will automatically drop down to the low-power mode after a few minutes of staying on the high-power mode. I'm sure this is in case it gets turned on accidentally or to preserve the life of the batteries or to preserve the life of the LED. Or all three. 

I've been playing around with it for about 2 hours, on and off, strobing, testing it against other flashlights, etc., and the Duracell batteries that came with it are now down to 1.35v each. Light still seems as bright as it was initially - perhaps the light requires less than 4.5v to operate. Seems logical?


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## ringzero (Jun 1, 2011)

KijanOZ said:


> I just wanted to point out that the light will automatically drop down to the low-power mode after a few minutes of staying on the high-power mode. I'm sure this is in case it gets turned on accidentally or to preserve the life of the batteries or to preserve the life of the LED. Or all three.
> 
> I've been playing around with it for about 2 hours, on and off, strobing, testing it against other flashlights, etc., and the Duracell batteries that came with it are now down to 1.35v each. Light still seems as bright as it was initially - perhaps the light requires less than 4.5v to operate. Seems logical?




Sorry, but I doubt the XL50 has circuitry designed to gradually dial down the output.

There are lights available that do that, such as Icon lights, but I'd bet the dimming of output that you see is just due to sagging voltage of the alkaline cells under load.

After being turned off for a while, the alkaline cells 'recover' to some extent, so the next time it's turned on it will look nearly as bright as with fresh cells.

If you use lithium or NiMh rechargable cells, then the decline of output won't be as noticeable.

.


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## KijanOZ (Jun 1, 2011)

ringzero said:


> Sorry, but I doubt the XL50 has circuitry designed to gradually dial down the output.
> 
> There are lights available that do that, such as Icon lights, but I'd bet the dimming of output that you see is just due to sagging voltage of the alkaline cells under load.
> 
> ...



That's incorrect. I understand what you're saying, however, all that is required is that you turn the light on and off once and it immediately goes back to just as bright as it was previously. It is, in fact, going down to the lower power mode after an amount of time. If you have one, you should try it!


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## Robin24k (Jun 1, 2011)

How much time does it take to drop down? I've never noticed that before...


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## ringzero (Jun 1, 2011)

KijanOZ said:


> That's incorrect. I understand what you're saying, however, all that is required is that you turn the light on and off once and it immediately goes back to just as bright as it was previously. It is, in fact, going down to the lower power mode after an amount of time. If you have one, you should try it!




Maybe you're right, but none of the other reviews I've seen have noted this behavior as a 'feature' of the XL50.

If it turns out that you are correct about this, then I may grab an XL50 the next time I'm at Lowes. 

I think that auto-dimming, such as incorporated into the Icon lights, is a really cool design feature.

However, I'm in the minority - most people on CPF hate auto-dimming.

.


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## Siggyhk (Jun 1, 2011)

Mine dims after only about 5 seconds. I have Energizer Lithiums in it.


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## Robin24k (Jun 1, 2011)

Mine definately doesn't do that, although I've never used lithium primaries in it before. Is the light warm when it starts to dim?


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## Hawkman (Jun 1, 2011)

Seems like a nice little light, but I think I'm going to wait until I can find them on sale for around $20.


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## Siggyhk (Jun 1, 2011)

Mine actually dims in more like 1-2 seconds. This occurs from room temperature. It doesn't drop to low, but somewhere between high and low, closer to high. 
I read a review somewhere else (don't recall where) and the guy had the same thing happening. He sent his in to Mag for inspection and apparently they said it was fine.


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## ringzero (Jun 1, 2011)

This thread makes me nostalgic for the "good old days" circa 2006, when I first became aware of CPF.

Nowdays we're lucky to get a runtime plot for an important Mag LED light months after it's first available in the stores. ;>

In those bygone times, whenever a new Mag LED light was released, it provoked huge interest and generated long threads full of runtime plots, lumen measurements, and beamshots.

Before long disassembly instructions, complete with detailed pics of the light's innards, would appear.

Following that there would be an analysis of the light's circuitry, complete with efficiency measurements and oscilliscope screenshots.

Eventually there would be long threads full of discussion and pics of various modifications made to the stock light.

The technical talent, creativity, and relentless determination of CPF regulars in those bygone days was nothing short of amazing.

Anyone else remember threads on the "freeze pop" technique? Now that was amazing.

.


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## KijanOZ (Jun 2, 2011)

Okay, I'll be a little more clear on what I mean.

I've tested this a few times and after what feels like 5-6 minutes, the light will cut down to the lower power mode. It does this with brand new alkaline batteries, as well as depleted ones. It does it consistently. It may be a new feature released recently. It may be an old feature that I just happened upon that they stopped putting on new ones. I don't know. It's a bit irrelevant. It does what it does.

Now, in terms of what happens after this...all you have to do is turn the light off and then back on. No waiting required. As soon as you do, it returns to its 100% mode and *stays there for another 5-6 minutes* before doing the same thing and you have to repeat the process all over.

Makes a lot of sense to me, considering the 100% mode is usually really bright - too bright for a lot of situations if you ask me. It may also be that the LED is driven slightly over what it's rated for, thus it's required to let it 'rest' to preserve the life of the LED. Don't really know. It could also be a safety feature. Could also be to prevent alkaline batteries from leaking...? Makes sense, since most people that buy Maglites generally don't care or want to care what they put in them. They just want them to work for a long time, every time.

Anyway! I hope this helps. I'm confirming this, without a doubt, and stating for a fact that it is not due to drops in voltages.


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## Robin24k (Jun 2, 2011)

I just ran mine for 6 minutes on alkalines, and when I turned it off and then back on again, it was the same brightness. I will double-check with Maglite to see...if this dimming is indeed a new feature, the XL200 that I'm getting tomorrow should also have it.

A side note though...mine is a pre-production unit, so this is an older light. What's the serial number on yours?


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## KijanOZ (Jun 2, 2011)

Robin24k said:


> I just ran mine for 6 minutes on alkalines, and when I turned it off and then back on again, it was the same brightness. I will double-check with Maglite to see...if this dimming is indeed a new feature, the XL200 that I'm getting tomorrow should also have it.
> 
> A side note though...mine is a pre-production unit, so this is an older light. What's the serial number on yours?


 
Not sure on that one bud. I ended up taking it back because the diode burnt up on it - the inside of the emitter was black and dark. I got another one, this time it does not dim. I tested the included batteries at just below 1.6v before use, and I was able to run it for 4hrs on high without any problems. Of course it did kill the batteries mostly. Now it'll go on high for about 20 seconds then click down to lower because of the drained batteries. Seems a lot of people have varying problems with the light...unfortunate.


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## Robin24k (Jun 2, 2011)

I think your first light might've been defective from the beginning, which was why it was dimming.



KijanOZ said:


> Now it'll go on high for about 20 seconds then click down to lower because of the drained batteries.


Wait, what? You need to replace the batteries if they're drained...


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## KijanOZ (Jun 3, 2011)

Robin24k said:


> I think your first light might've been defective from the beginning, which was why it was dimming.
> 
> 
> Wait, what? You need to replace the batteries if they're drained...



Lol, I know that. I'm saying that once you drain the batteries it'll go on high then drop down to low mode. That's all. 

Also, another very interesting thing to note is that *the low mode on the XL50 is actually a strobe as well.* That's right, the "low mode" on the XL50 is actually a strobe - I guess this is yet another way it conserves power. I wasn't sure at first but then, sure enough, I pointed at a ceiling fan and got ghost images of the blades. It's subtle but it's definitely there. It's just so quick that your eyes cannot see it under normal conditions but point it at a high velocity object and you'll notice it right away. You could also look at the beam through the viewfinder of a digital camera and see it I'm sure - much the same as you can see the refreshing of a TV or monitor on video.

Edit: And yeah, that's kind of what I was hinting at to begin with. Defective light!


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## robostudent5000 (Jun 3, 2011)

KijanOZ said:


> Also, another very interesting thing to note is that *the low mode on the XL50 is actually a strobe as well.* That's right, the "low mode" on the XL50 is actually a strobe - I guess this is yet another way it conserves power. I wasn't sure at first but then, sure enough, I pointed at a ceiling fan and got ghost images of the blades. It's subtle but it's definitely there. It's just so quick that your eyes cannot see it under normal conditions but point it at a high velocity object and you'll notice it right away. You could also look at the beam through the viewfinder of a digital camera and see it I'm sure - much the same as you can see the refreshing of a TV or monitor on video.



that's PWM, and yet another reason Mag haters hate Mags. Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) pulses the light to produce the effect of reduced output. basically, as you mentioned, it's a really fast strobe. if the frequency is high enough, the strobe effect will be completely undetectable. but the Mags use a frequency too low to avoid causing that visible strobe effect when shined on moving objects; try shining it on flowing water. Most good flashlights use PWM at frequencies high enough to be undetectable even on moving objects or use current control, which produces constant light at reduced levels. Current control is more efficient and produces longer run times. PWM gives you more output flexibility.


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## ringzero (Jul 5, 2011)

Hey Robin24k, I asked you a question about the XL series lights over on the thread that I started on the XL50.

You never answered, so maybe you didn't see my question over on that thread.

You mentioned several times about removing the battery carrier from the XL lights for long term storage to avoid draining the cells.

I asked if you had tried unscrewing the tail cap about one turn instead of removing the battery carrier?

As you unscrew the tailcap at some point the light will stop responding to button clicks. Back the tailcap out a bit more, just to be sure. At that point the circuit is broken and there should be no standby current flowing to drain the cells.

I think this is a more convenient way to store the light long term. When you need to use the light you just tighten down the tailcap.

Your method involves finding the battery carrier, removing the tailcap, inserting the carrier into the light, then tightening down the tailcap.

The tailcap lockout method is commonly used when storing away lights that have standby currents.

Is there something peculiar to the XL series that I'm missing that makes the tailcap lockout method undesirable?

.


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## Robin24k (Jul 5, 2011)

Sorry...CPF isn't fully reliable with topic replies, so I might not have seen it.

The threads on the XL-series are fairly short and the battery contacts are quite long, so unscrewing the tailcap makes it wobble. I'm afraid that the tailcap will fall off entirely if the light is tossed around with other stuff, which means you would also have to hunt down the tailcap in addition to the battery carrier. 

Personally, I just refrain from using any XL-series lights as emergency lights. My XL200 is my EDC in a belt pouch, and my XL100 and XL50 sit on my desk in case the XL200 is not at hand.


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## ringzero (Jul 5, 2011)

Robin24k said:


> The threads on the XL-series are fairly short and the battery contacts are quite long, so unscrewing the tailcap makes it wobble. I'm afraid that the tailcap will fall off entirely if the light is tossed around with other stuff, which means you would also have to hunt down the tailcap in addition to the battery carrier.





Thanks for the response, Robin24k.

Tailcap on my XL50 takes just over 2.5 turns to go from tightened down all the way to free in my hand.

Loosening it 1.5 turns always locks out the light reliably, so it still has one complete turn left before it'll come free of the body threads.

Seems to me that's secure enough for storing around the house or in the glovebox of a vehicle.

See your point about not carrying the XL50 that way in the pocket of a rucksack, because bouncing around in a rucksack the tailcap could possibly loosen and fall off.

For carrying the XL50 in a rucksack, I'll do what I always did when carrying my good old 2C incans in a rucksack:

1. Remove the tailcap.
2. Remove the back cell, rotate cell 180 degrees, then replace the cell.
3. Replace the tailcap.

Except instead of rotating one cell, I'll rotate the whole battery carrier.

.


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## Robin24k (Jul 5, 2011)

Reversing the battery carrier is probably not a good idea, the positive contact on the LED module could short it out, and the pointed end now facing backwards could damage the tailcap. I don't think the tailcap will even screw down properly with the battery carrier reversed.

Actually, having things not properly assembled (loose tailcap) bothers me more than the possibility of the tailcap coming off, so I never use any lock out tailcaps or things of that sort. Just a pet peeve of mine...hate it when things aren't assembled or aren't assembled correctly. My laptop (Dell Latitude E6410) has been laying in pieces for about a week now because I'm waiting for replacement parts to arrive, and it's really starting to get on my nerves. UPS Ground is ridiculously slow, and the long weekend only makes it worse.


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## ringzero (Jul 6, 2011)

Robin24k said:


> Reversing the battery carrier is probably not a good idea, the positive contact on the LED module could short it out, and the pointed end now facing backwards could damage the tailcap. I don't think the tailcap will even screw down properly with the battery carrier reversed.





Thanks for the warning.

You wrote that the XL series has protection built into the design of the carrier to prevent damaging the LED if inserted backwards.

I'll be careful the first time I try reversing the carrier.

.


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## robostudent5000 (Jul 6, 2011)

what about inserting a thin piece of plastic/rubber/vinyl between the carrier and the tail cap?


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## Robin24k (Jul 6, 2011)

The tailcap is more difficult to screw on properly if it's in backwards, but it will still do so. However, there's no way the tailcap can get both + and -, so the light won't operate. That being said, there's no guarantee about shorting out the other end, so I would be careful and make sure everything is OK.


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## ringzero (Jul 17, 2011)

After over a month of daily use the Duracell alkies that came with my XL50 are getting kinda tired. Swapped out the old Duracells with new ones to compare the high output and it appears to be the same, so I put the old cells back in.

When cliked on the light comes on at full high and maintains that level for several seconds before it begins to dim. It dims in a series of barely perceptible discrete steps, eventually reaching a level that looks identical to low level. You have to watch it closely to notice the stairstep decline in output.

As the cells become more depleted the time to dim from full high to low output shortens, until it happens so fast that it seems to switch directly from high to low.

After letting the cells rest and recover for a few hours, the high output will stay high longer and the stairstep dimming can be seen once again.

I'm thinking the XL50 may have a setup something like the Icon lights, where the output automatically declines in a stairstep fashion to extend the runtime.

Robin24k, have you noticed declining stairstep behavior in your XL50?

.


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## Robin24k (Jul 17, 2011)

I think that might just be the almost dead alkalines, I use NiMH and haven't noticed any curious dimming patterns at all.


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## ringzero (Jul 17, 2011)

Robin24k said:


> I think that might just be the almost dead alkalines, I use NiMH and haven't noticed any curious dimming patterns at all.




I know my observation is due to the light running on nearly dead alkies.

However, so far as I know, alkaline decay curves aren't observed to occur in discrete steps.

I can see the output dimming in discrete steps, not gradual, smooth dimming like other lights exhibit when running on depleted cells.

It could be that the this stairstep dimming behavior also occurs with fresh cells, but so gradually that it can't be seen.

Wish I had a decent logging meter so I could plot the XL50 output over time. I'm guessing that it'd look something like an Icon light's stairstep output.

.


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## jonnyfgroove (Jul 17, 2011)

Here are runtime graphs for the XL100 if that's of any use.


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## ringzero (Jul 17, 2011)

jonnyfgroove said:


> Here are runtime graphs for the XL100 if that's of any use.




Thanks jonnyfgroove! I hadn't seen XL100 runtime graphs before.

Knew the discrete dimming steps weren't due to my imagination.

This is a fairly sophisticated scheme of regulation, conceptually similar to the system used by Icon.

Eight minutes of flat output with alkies, then controlled stairstep dimming for something like an hour, then a gradual decline.

Sixteen minutes of flat output with NiMH, then stairstep dimming for about an hour and a half, then a gradual decline.

Thanks again for pointing out these runtime plots.

.


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## Robin24k (Jul 18, 2011)

Just wanted to point out that the "runtime graphs" are deceptive. It's current vs. time, ignoring the fluctuating voltage completely.

Output vs. time is what you would want to look for, and unfortunately, I don't have a light meter.


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## ringzero (Jul 18, 2011)

Robin24k said:


> Just wanted to point out that the "runtime graphs" are deceptive. It's current vs. time, ignoring the fluctuating voltage completely.
> 
> Output vs. time is what you would want to look for, and unfortunately, I don't have a light meter.




Voltage won't decline that much within a time of several minutes. Since power is voltage times current, these plots will approximate the output power - at least over short periods of time during which the voltage doesn't change much. The scale between the very ends of the graphs may be off a bit, but the basic shape of the curves is probably about right.

You can see the stairstep changes in current, and hence output power, in nearly any short section of the graphs that you look at.

I think it's really cool that Mag has built an inexpensive, mass market light with stairstep regulation. Icon is this first that I remember reading about, and now Coast has a few models with a similar regulation scheme.

Good for Mag for recognizing a good design and copying it. ;>

I really like how my XL50, while running on nearly dead cells, still gamely fires up and gives me a few seconds of full power throw whenever I click its button. And it does this reliably, over and over and over. Great design.

The declining stairstep regulation is also probably why the original alkies have lasted so long in this light despite daily use.

.


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## rebelbayou (Jul 18, 2011)

This thread caught my attention as I just purchased an XL50 about 3 months ago. Pretty nice light for $25 except for the dimming feature. I had already decided to return mine until I happened upon ths post. My example seems to drop down to a lower level within 4 or 5 minutes on high, with either alkalines or rechargeables. I thought it was defective until I read on here about others having the same thing happening to them. Although I don't like that feature, nor the lack of focus or clip, I'll probably just keep it anyway because it seems to be brighter than 104 lumens and for $25, I've bought a lot of worse lights.


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## Helljumper09 (Jul 18, 2011)

I have recently bought the XL50. I have to say it is the brightest small light I own. I also ow the twist head maglite and a 4 D cell Maglite with the LED conversion. I would suggest this light to anyone looking for a small, bright light for around $30. The only problem I have is hitting the tail switch while it's in my pocket. Other than that, it is a great light.


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## robostudent5000 (Jul 18, 2011)

rebelbayou said:


> Pretty nice light for $25 except for the dimming feature. I had already decided to return mine until I happened upon ths post. My example seems to drop down to a lower level within 4 or 5 minutes on high, with either alkalines or rechargeables. I thought it was defective until I read on here about others having the same thing happening to them.


 
is this a real feature? it seems like it happens to some people, but not to others. IRRC, one poster had the dimming problem on one XL50 and exchanged it for another that didn't dim.


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## ringzero (Jul 18, 2011)

robostudent5000 said:


> is this a real feature? it seems like it happens to some people, but not to others. IRRC, one poster had the dimming problem on one XL50 and exchanged it for another that didn't dim.




First, I don't believe the dimming is a "problem," but rather a purposeful "feature" of the light's scheme of "regulation."

Second, it won't be naked eye observable to most people because the human eye isn't that sensitive to small changes in brightness.

Should be easy to observe with a decent logging meter, but any fine detail won't be observable with the ancient, non-logging meter that is all I have on hand for brightness measurements.

In other words, a standard runtime plot made using decent equipment should show the stairstep regulation in plenty of detail.

.


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## robostudent5000 (Jul 18, 2011)

Robin, did Mag ever let you know if the dimming was a built in feature or not?

rebelbayou said in his post that he doesn't like the fact that his XL50 dims after 5 minutes. I just think that if there's a good enough chance that he can get a replacement that stays bright, it would be worth it for him to know.


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## Robin24k (Jul 18, 2011)

I actually haven't checked with them about it since I didn't notice it on mine. That being said, my XL50 was one of the first ones off the production line, so that could also be a reason. I will try to check with them about it and get back to you guys.


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## robostudent5000 (Jul 18, 2011)

thanks Robin. i think that would be really helpful.


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## aquasport175 (Jul 27, 2011)

parnass said:


> Does the XL-50 tail switch provide a momentary feature when partially depressed? If so, does the momentary action turn on the light at the brightest level?
> 
> Thanks.


 
I know this is very late, but I'll share anyway. I just got an XL50 this week and was playing around with it. I noticed that four clicks could sort of serve of a momentary action. Essentially if you press the button again while in strobe mode, it keeps the LED on at 100%, and then releasing the button will shut it off. I know it's not really momentary action but it's half way there at least. Plus, it's alot easier just to press the button on and then off instead of four clicks. Anyway just thought I'd share.


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## chadvone (Nov 14, 2011)

I know I am way late to this party. Have 3 xl50's. Have been using on as bike light along with PT EOS Bike. It gives great throw and works well with the eos. I have been concerned about regulation and runtimes so I decided to do a little test with some new rayovac precharge I just got. I went ahead and put them on charger to top them off. Stuck them in the 50 and turned it on HI. I used a minimag led AA to compair brightness with, the 50 was brighter. After one hours I checked again compairing to minimag. Minimag was brighter. I did quick turn off and back on. The 50 was back to being brighter. This happend 3 times(3hours) after the 3rd time I noticed the 50 dimmed about 10 minutes into the 4th hour. Quick off and on and it would hold max brightness for 10-20 seconds then dim down. I check battery voltage at 1.01 volts. Also compaired to another 50 . The amount it dims down was unnotice unless another light was there to compair with. I am very happy with 3 hours on hi. I recharged and have been running same test on the low again compairing to another 50. 6 Hours into the voltage was 1.29. Test will continue..........12 hours voltage 1.22 no loss in brightness when switched off and on.... 14 hours restart does not restore brightness, Hi is close to low on 50 with good batteries, Voltage 1.12..... 16 hours consideralbly dimmer, voltage .91 back on charger.


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## Robin24k (Dec 15, 2011)

Looks like you guys are right, the XL50 does go to 25% after 5 minutes of usage. Here's the runtime graph:



Robin24k said:


>


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## Cunha (Dec 15, 2011)

Thats some serious drop..gives them the really great run times to advertise..shady.

I'm not a big fan of 3x AAA's . I love the form factor of my 3x AA LED minimag. AAA's just don't do it for me. Plus as mentioned before there are a lot of cheap 3xAAA's out there. Costco has 3 packs of them that seem pretty good for what they are.


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## Robin24k (Dec 15, 2011)

Indeed, it doesn't look good on paper, but it's not as dramatic to the eyes due to non-linear brightness perception and I doubt that alkaline AAA's will be able to sustain a 560mA current draw for very long either. As an entry-level consumer product, it's not necessarily a bad thing, but it would be better for the consumer to be informed rather than be surprised or think it's defective.


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## Cunha (Dec 15, 2011)

Yeah. Unfortunately the price on those is just non competative. It will sell o.k. in target and not much at all to guys here. The costo pack with the 3xD LED and the 2xAA LED for 30 dollars is very hard to beat though. I wonder how the run time ramps down on the big D..they list a pretty incredible runtime on that light but I don't doubt that it is just as deceitful as ths XL50.


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## Robin24k (Dec 16, 2011)

I don't know about being deceitful since they do advertise power management and extended battery life, but the on-time of a flashlight will probably be no more than 15 minutes for the average user. It does seem quite aggressive in the XL50's case as it drops down to 25% after 5 minutes (compared to 50% for XL200 and 75% for ML125, both of which happen after 12 minutes), but even law enforcement prefers a ramp-down after 15 minutes of usage, so completely flat runtimes is probably not all that important in practical usage.

I'm still got a couple runtime tests waiting to be done, but I will do a NiMH test of the Luxeon Rebel version Mini Maglite and 3D when I get a chance.


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## jonnyfgroove (Dec 16, 2011)

Cunha said:


> Yeah. Unfortunately the price on those is just non competative. It will sell o.k. in target and not much at all to guys here. The costo pack with the 3xD LED and the 2xAA LED for 30 dollars is very hard to beat though. I wonder how the run time ramps down on the big D..they list a pretty incredible runtime on that light but I don't doubt that it is just as deceitful as ths XL50.



:shakehead Read more, post less. Mag is a far cry from being "shady" or "deceitful".


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## onalandline (Feb 1, 2012)

This may have been answered somewhere in this thread, but I am too lazy to read through all the posts. What kind of LED does the XL50 use? What is the ANSI number? Just curious. I have had this for a while, and like it very much. Thanks for any replies.


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## Bullzeyebill (Feb 1, 2012)

onalandline said:


> I am too lazy to read through all the posts.



Welcome to CPF. Go to post 15 in this thread, it will be a good exercise for you.  Lot's of info here on CPF for your looking.

Bill


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## budynabuick (Feb 1, 2012)

T45 said:


> Hmmm....with all the amazing brain power and creativity on CPF, someone, somewhere could come up with a battery adapter to fit an 18650. Is the problem with the 3AAA format just because so many cheap and poorly made lights have that format as a power source? I passed on the XL100, but I just might get a XL50 in some other color besides black.




Yea, I have a aaa/18650 format. I run it on aaa. 3 imedion aaa gives me 2850 
mah and works great. 3 aaa gives me more power than one aa.

Keith- who likes all things AAA (except ins)


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## budynabuick (Feb 1, 2012)

Lawliet said:


> Those direct drive lights are only an emotional reason.
> On the rational side you get about 3,6V*800mAh=2,88Wh from a set of such rechargeables. A single 2400mAh AA does the same in a smaller, more convenient and somewhat cheaper package.




I get 2850+ mah with 3 aaa. autually closer 2 over 2900 mah.

Keith


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## ps56k (May 31, 2012)

our son was over and happen to grab our XL-50 that was laying around, 
and we noticed that when you press the tail, 
it comes on bright and then IMMEDIATELY drops down to the dim setting....

Is there any way to keep it at the brightest setting ?
----

update - 
it appears that after pressing it ON, and dimming, 
that if I keep pressing the tail each time it dims, that after about 3 iterations it will stay on High -


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## Robin24k (May 31, 2012)

Have you tried a fresh set of batteries?


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## ps56k (May 31, 2012)

robostudent5000 said:


> that's PWM, and yet another reason Mag haters hate Mags. Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) pulses the light to produce the effect of reduced output.



The interesting thing I just noticed/tested with mine - is that PWM is used for the High and Low - 
Just turn it on, hold at arms length, facing so you can see the LED, and wiggle it rapidly..... a normal continous LED will shine across the full arc of the wiggle - the PWM will show as "spots" across the length of the arc, when the LED is on vs being off.


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## ps56k (May 31, 2012)

Robin24k said:


> Have you tried a fresh set of batteries?


tnx - tossed a new set into the light, and the immediate auto-dim went away....
I mean, the light was capable of staying on at full bright, but guess "they" thought it was better to dim.


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## ps56k (Apr 4, 2013)

ok - almost a year - and happen to pick up the XL50 from the drawer and noticed the same dimming - found this old thread, along with the old comments..... and tested the batteries - yup - low - 
Put in a fresh set, and all back to high - and back into the drawer.
See ya next year again


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## Robin24k (Apr 4, 2013)

If you don't use it often, you may want to remove the battery carrier to prevent discharge or possible leakage.


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## ps56k (May 1, 2013)

Just noticed that doing a quick search for max lumens, and there appears to be two max values listed... 139 and 104.
I dont see any change in the actual product listing, just the max lumens listed.. So, which is true ?


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## Robin24k (May 1, 2013)

Newer models are 139 lumens, and the original version is 104 lumens. The difference is an LED change, from Luxeon Rebel to Cree XP-E.


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## ps56k (May 1, 2013)

Robin24k said:


> Newer models are 139 lumens, and the original version is 104 lumens. The difference is an LED change, from Luxeon Rebel to Cree XP-E.


Tnx for the info. Is there any easy way to tell them apart ? Any photos of the biz end that would help ident the two models, or any other changes that can be seen ?

Just noticed that there is a number under the un-screwed head... mine is 000056699

Tnx for the info on the colors of the led... there are some photos here on CPF..


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## Robin24k (May 1, 2013)

I don't have any photos of the updated model, but you can differentiate it easily by the color of the LED. The Luxeon Rebel is yellow and the Cree XP-E is green.


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## ps56k (May 2, 2013)

tnx - found some photos here.... guess I have the Rebel - on the right - 

The Cree XP-E is green (left) and the Luxeon Rebel is yellow (right).


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## kevleee1 (May 12, 2013)

Thanks for the photos. I have the cree on the left. Does anybody know if the color temperature of these two emiiters are different? If different how so? I really like this flashlight. I hope the LED does not start dimming and burning out like the Nebo light I had once.


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## Robin24k (May 12, 2013)

Maglite typically purchases LEDs from a variety of cool white bins, so the tint will vary.


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## gun papa (May 18, 2013)

Hi. I am new here. Great site. I am not a flashlight geek, no offense. I am a gun guy primarily. I work for a law enforcement agency in the Sierra Mountains which borders California and Nevada. The trek to work, as well as the work I do requires survival skills and equipment. It is not unusual for me to me driving over a 7740ft. elevation pass in white out conditions. 
I keep an XL50 on my person, and an XL100 in my Winter or Summer survival pack, however, I switched the bodies out as the XL50 had the newer cree LED unit in it and I found it to be brighter.

I have, as does my agency a lot of AAA batteries around. While I know it is not ideal, it works for my uses.

I bought the XL100 first. I like the smart features. Being able to dim the light, run SOS without my effort, and the ability to turn the duration of the strobe down to an infrequent BLIP are all features that could be used to save a life should things get bad. Things can get very bad, very quickly here, in both Summer and Winter.

I wish that it had a tempered glass lens.

I would love to know what other better options for a light I could get.

I have also attached an XL50 to a .223 caliber defensive gun, but have yet to try it out. Possibly this weekend.


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## Raven (Aug 11, 2013)

How stiff is the button? For anyone who also has experience with the button on the Dorcy 3aaa 9 led light, is the Maglite button just as easy to push in?

Thanks


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## Robin24k (Aug 11, 2013)

The button isn't stiff at all, it only needs a light press to click.


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## Raven (Aug 11, 2013)

Robin24k said:


> The button isn't stiff at all, it only needs a light press to click.



Thanks. The light is for an elderly person. They already own some Maglites, and I want to get them a brand they are comfortable with. It's either going to be the Mini Mag Pro+ or the XL50. I'm partial to the XL50 because it's the same form factor as a cheap knock off they already use, but I'm worried the button will be too stiff for them.


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## Robin24k (Aug 11, 2013)

For the XL50, I would consider how often they use the light. The electronic switch has a standby current drain, so if the light won't be used often, that is a drawback (Mini Maglite models don't have this issue because their switch is mechanical).


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## Raven (Aug 11, 2013)

Robin24k said:


> For the XL50, I would consider how often they use the light. The electronic switch has a standby current drain, so if the light won't be used often, that is a drawback (Mini Maglite models don't have this issue because their switch is mechanical).



Standby current drain?


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## Robin24k (Aug 11, 2013)

It will slowly discharge the batteries over 6-12 months.


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## Raven (Aug 11, 2013)

Robin24k said:


> It will slowly discharge the batteries over 6-12 months.



Ah, OK, that wouldn't be a problem. Thanks. I'll probably go with the XL50 then.


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## sharazzi (Oct 25, 2013)

has anyone actually delensed the X50 or one of the other models (X100-X200) I am having one heck of a time trying to get the reflector out to change the plastic lens to an AR one. I know you have to push on the lens and "wiggle" the reflector but I dont want to break anything, reflectors are hard to come by and I dont think you can buy the one for the X50 separately. I was hoping someone can lend a hand with this as the actual process is giving me some trouble...how much force is to much?


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## Pasadian (Mar 26, 2017)

ringzero said:


> Hey Robin24k, I asked you a question about the XL series lights over on the thread that I started on the XL50.
> 
> You never answered, so maybe you didn't see my question over on that thread.
> 
> ...



Coming from the XL200 going to the XL50 I was missing the lock feature [my room mate was always playing with it and leaving it on], the loose tail cap trick solved my problem. Thank you!


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## bykfixer (Mar 26, 2017)

I really like that XL50. Mostly it gets used on low. Very under rated little Maglite

Now regarding pulling out the battery carrier, if you say... stick it in a drawer of say... your camper... that type of thing you would likely not lose the carrier. But it's best to store alkalines outside the light. In the off chance they leak from living in extreme conditions you are less likely to have a non working flashlight if the leakage only coats contact points of the carrier and not parts inside the light itself. 

Mine stays near a door in a controled climate so I use the break the circuit mode described above.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 27, 2017)




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## hsa (Mar 27, 2017)

Good review. I always wondered how the different modes and adjustability worked in actual practice.
Thanks

Harry


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## xxo (Mar 28, 2017)

Chicken Drumstick said:


>




Great review! Thanks.

The XL200 seems like a fun light, I have kind of wanted one for a while, but haven't got one because of a bad experience with a XL50 that I had for a few days before the switch stopped working.


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