# [GUIDE] Mag623 Build w/pics



## 299792458m/s (Apr 2, 2008)

**While posting in another thread about my Mag623 build, I received several PMs about how my build was going, etc. So, I decided to post a pic by pic guide on how to build a Mag623.
***All pics are thumbnailed, so click on them for the full version. I have added notes to the pics to clarify my instructions.

*>>>2D Mag623-The sexy beast that punches you hard in the wallet, but makes a decent batman signal on cloudy nights.<<<*

*I. Preparation*

Materials needed:
*A Tri-bore 2D Mag Host*
*Osram 64623 (or 64633) bulbs*
*An aluminum reflector*
*A glass lens*
*A High-Temp Switch mod or switch replacement*
*A 15.6V battery pack from LuxLuthor*
*A Universal Smart Chager
*
***Optional: An FM3V-2 replacement head (has alum reflector and glass lens)*
***Optional: AW's MagD Incan Driver (switch replacement)*
***Optional: A voltage meter or e-station (VERY useful-removes battery resting guesswork)
*

A *tri-bore 2D Mag host*. If you have someone who can bore it for you, then any 2D Mag will work. Otherwise, I recommend using Jesus Hernandez right here on CPF. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/156080
You will need to find an *Osram 64623 (or 64633)* bi-pin bulb. These can be found anywhere. Several members of CPF can get them for you, or you can go to ebay, amazon, google, etc.
You will need a new *aluminum reflector and glass lens*. (The stock plastic ones will melt in seconds if you do not replace them.) Here is where Mag623 builds can diverge. You can keep the standard Mag head and get a new reflector and lens from CPF Member FiveMega from here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=163470, and it will work fine; however, if you have the extra cash to spend, I (and others) highly recommend FiveMega's alternative *FM3V-2* from here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=174247. The FM3V-2 head is superior to a stock head because it is lightweight, has a smaller bulb opening, is capable of throwing a wider beam, and just plain looks good.
You need a *switch replacement*. The stock Mag switch just sucks for what we are building. There are several alternatives around the CPF B/S/T board, but I highly recommend *AW's Incan Driver* found here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/177316. It is incredible. Besides the greatness of soft starting, you will find yourself using multi-mode more than you think. If you are going for a budget build, though, another board member, Kiu, offers a cheap alternative. The *high-temp switch mod* found here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/171607
Lastly, you will need some juice to power this beast. Look no further than CPF's own LuxLuthor. Go to his thread here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/191890, and order a *1500mAh 2/3 A Cell 15.6V (13 cell) battery pack*. There are alternatives to getting the juice you need, but there is no need to list them as Lux's stuff is top notch for a great price. Both budget and high-quality builds will want this pack. Check out a few of his recommended sites or your local hobby stores to get a *Universal Smart Charger *for your new pack.
Here are some pics of what you will need (the dremel is optional, but is much easier than sanding or chiseling):


















*II. Assembly*

This is a relatively simple mod considering what you get out of it, so don't get apprehensive about tearing up the new mag. This guide assumes that you have already had the body tri-bored and are replacing the switch (since Kiu has his own guide for the high-temp mod).

1. First remove the head and tail cap from the mag body. Also take the spring from the tail cap and toss it aside. We won't be needing it.






2. Next, we are going to remove the switch from the body. Pinch the rubber button cover so it will pop out. Then, insert a 5/64 allen wrench into the button opening. There is a set screw about 1.25-1.5 inches deep inside the button. Once you feel the allen wrench slip into place, turn the wrench counterclockwise to loosen the switch. Remove the allen wrench, and the switch will now slide out the rear of the mag body.












3. Now, we need to remove the anodized coating from the inside of the tailcap so the batterypack can make contact. To do this, you can use sandpaper, honing stones, a chisel, a screwdriver, or any other number of crude methods--as long as the coating is removed. I prefer to use a dremel as it gets the job done quickly and provides a nice clean, smooth surface.








4. Now, we can begin reassembling our new creation. Take your switch replacement, and slide it in the rear of the mag. It is a slightly tighter fit, but should slide in with ease. If you are having difficulty getting it into place, ensure the set screw (used to lock the switch into place) is loosened. It must be flush with the side of the switch or slightly indented. If it is still too tight to fall into place, use your battery pack to gently push it into place. Line up the switch and tighten it down using the same method you used to take it out. The set screw for AW's Incan Driver is just above his button. Replace the rubber button cover, and you are off to the next step.










5. Now that you switch is secured, you can place a bulb into the bi-pin socket. REMEMBER: The oils from your skin can damage a Halo bulb, so open the bulb packaging only half way, starting from the end with the pins, and try not to touch the bulb at all. If you open the package only half way, you can put the bulb into place with the plastic seal still on, then remove the plastic. If you happen to touch the bulb, wipe it off with alcohol or acetone and let it dry before use.








6. Ok, we are almost done. All the hard stuff is out of the way. Next, replace the reflector and lens if you are keeping the old mag head. They simply drop in place. Then replace the head. If you went for FiveMega's FM3V-2 head, then just screw it in place.






7. Lastly, place Lux's battery pack in place, and replace the tailcap. (But don't forget to let it rest, and if you overcharge it, use your e-station/AW's low setting on the switch to discharge it to around 17V. Anything more than that will likely flash your bulb unless you sprung for the 64633. Incidentally, Lux's "Destructive Incan Bulb Test" thread is a godsend. It is found here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=179748. Use it. (I've included a picture of my first charge to drive home the usefulness of a voltage meter/e-station. If I had popped this in right off the charge, I would have fried one or more $4 bulbs.)










Congratulations! There is your finished product (compared to a 3D Mag in the second pic and both a budget and pimped Mag623 in the third pic.) 

*III. Performance and Afterthoughts*

A few of my favorite things about the 2D Mag623 build is its versatility and performance. A Mag623 can cost you less than a Mag85 build if you really cut corners (and outperform one by a wide margin), but the 2D Mag623 can also stand out from a collection if you have a few extra bucks to throw at it. Another added bonus is: because it compact enough to look like a normal Mag, but powerful enough to out-shine spotlights, it will scare pedestrians when you turn it on. Now go out and impress your friends and frighten your neighbors. You've earned it.

*>>>4D Mag623-A portable sunbeam that will detach retinas at 10m without draining your checking account.<<<*
 
******BEAM SHOTS COMING SOON. RAIN DELAYS :sick2:*******

******4D Mag623 MOD COMING SOON*******
******By requests, I'm going to make the 4D mod a budget build to demonstrate ballpark prices of each******


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## kiely23+ (Apr 2, 2008)

great work :thumbsup:


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## FILIPPO (Apr 2, 2008)

good job!

I think you have to say that the mod you did is the smaller but you can also make a MAG623 with a 4D mag...still using LUXLUTHOR high quality battery packs (AA cell type)...:wave:


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## Taboot (Apr 2, 2008)

Nice job man. Both on the light and the post.:twothumbs


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## greenstuffs (Apr 2, 2008)

Thx for this post the information contained is very useful


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## 299792458m/s (Apr 3, 2008)

FILIPPO said:


> good job!
> 
> I think you have to say that the mod you did is the smaller but you can also make a MAG623 with a 4D mag...still using LUXLUTHOR high quality battery packs (AA cell type)...:wave:



It's funny you mentioned that. I had a back-and-forth with Taboot in another thread about the 4D mod, and now I'm probably going to convert one of my 4Ds to a 623 as well. :laughing:

I'll update the thread when I get done with it. :naughty:


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## Tarlach (Apr 3, 2008)

For a newbie, can you please add a few quick numbers to the end of your post to give an idea of what is accomplished?

i.e. Runtime and est lumens, mayabe a outdoor illumination pic (or some way of quantifying output) 

I have a 6D ROP and I think it's time to step up a level. I'm a bit worried about terrible runtimes from a 'shorty solution' and I have no idea what the 'real world' difference between the ROP and a 623 (or similar).

Otherwise, thanks for spelling it all out nice and simple :thumbsup:


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## 299792458m/s (Apr 4, 2008)

I plan on posting some beam shots (hopefully) this weekend. It's been raining non-stop here since last week sometime. But, if you want a reference sheet as far as 'holy crap, that's bright', then you can take a peek at "Lux's Most Powerful Maglite Mod List" thread found here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/177171.

The predicted lumen output for your standard ROP Low is 1503 @9.6v charge, and the predicted lumen output for your standard ROP High is 2030 @8.5v charge. Comparatively, the predicted output for a Mag623 is about 8535 @16.5v charge, and it is around 10,194 @17.8v charge if you use a 64633 bulb. If you want some reading material on bulb output, then you can check this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=179748.

You can also calculate run time using the above thread. I'm assuming you're using 2500mAh batteries for your ROPs, but for example, let's say you are. 2500mAh batteries can give you 2.5A/60mins. The ROPs only need 2.37A and 4.84A (respectively) to run optimally. See the correlation below. If you need twice as much current, then you cut your runtime in half. It is an inverse relationship. The Mag623s need 7x as much current to light up optimally, so their run-times are 60(mins)/7. You can also find more information on this here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=194040.


Model...........Charge...........Lumen..............Runtime..... 
ROP Low ......9.6v ..............1503 ............~50-60mins
ROP High ......8.5v ..............2030 ............~25-30mins
Mag623 .......16.5v .............8535 ............~9-10mins
Mag633 .......17.8v ............10,194 ..........~8-9mins


**I should also note, that the times I quoted for the Mag623 are times for 1500mAh battery packs. You can get slightly longer run-times if you throw a little extra money into the batteries (i.e-1700, 2000, or 2500mAh). Using 2500mAh packs on a Mag623 would boost your runtime from ~8 to ~12mins.


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## FILIPPO (Apr 4, 2008)

299792458m/s said:


> Model...........Charge...........Lumen..............Runtime.....
> ROP Low ......9.6v ..............1503 ............~50-60mins
> ROP High ......8.5v ..............2030 ............~25-30mins
> Mag623 .......16.5v .............8535 ............~9-10mins
> Mag633 .......17.8v ............10,194 ..........~8-9mins


 

I think you 'll never get more that 1000 lumens with a ROP HIGH...you must count voltage drop.....


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## Tarlach (Apr 4, 2008)

299792458m/s said:


> I'm assuming you're using 2500mAh batteries for your ROPs, but for example, let's say you are. 2500mAh batteries can give you 2.5A/60mins. The ROPs only need 2.37A and 4.84A (respectively) to run optimally. See the correlation below. If you need twice as much current, then you cut your runtime in half. It is an inverse relationship. The Mag623s need 7x as much current to light up optimally, so their run-times are 60(mins)/7. You can also find more information on this here: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=194040.
> 
> 
> Model...........Charge...........Lumen..............Runtime.....
> ...



That's my concern about these short mag mods. I run my ROP on 6D 9500mAh NiMH. Giving me 2 hours runtime (calc as above). The 8-12 minutes of a shorty is not really long enough to use for anything much in a real world situation.

It is enough time to blow a few peoples minds, but I wouldn't ever want to have to rely on one in an emergency (and it's not even a good  like the 6D is)


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## 299792458m/s (Apr 4, 2008)

FILIPPO said:


> I think you 'll never get more that 1000 lumens with a ROP HIGH...you must count voltage drop.....



I used the predicted lumens since lumens are a perceived measurement anyhow. That's why I pointed him to Lux's threads. I'm not going to step into anything more than ballpark at this point. :laughing:

Thanks for pointing it out though. I took for granted that tidbit.


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## 299792458m/s (Apr 4, 2008)

Tarlach said:


> It is enough time to blow a few peoples minds, but I wouldn't ever want to have to rely on one in an emergency (and it's not even a good  like the 6D is)



I'm waiting for some parts to come in so I can complete a 4DMag623 mod. The run-time doesn't really change, but it is a good . And, since it looks exactly the same as any other 4DMag, it scares people when you turn it on. It's good for a WOW-factor or temporarily blinding small animals at moderate distances.


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## Mel_PL (Apr 5, 2008)

299792458m/s said:


> .... or temporarily blinding small animals at moderate distances.



I'm sure they don't want to be blind. Even temporarily.

-- M.


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## Rayne (May 23, 2008)

That Mag623 is one sweet mod!! I'm tempted to put one together but I think my ROP and Mag85 would get jealous.  How's the 4D version coming along?


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## Grox (May 23, 2008)

Tarlach said:


> It is enough time to blow a few peoples minds, but I wouldn't ever want to have to rely on one in an emergency (and it's not even a good  like the 6D is)



Well the whole point of these mods is to pack maximum output into minimum size, isn't it. Practicality is not the name of the game - it's about shock and awe


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## Taboot (May 24, 2008)

Just an FYI for 623'ers. I have used my 4D 623 (lux 13 cell pack) hot off the charger probably 15 times now and I'm still on the original bulb using AW's soft-start. 

Mike


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## 2xTrinity (May 25, 2008)

Tarlach said:


> That's my concern about these short mag mods. I run my ROP on 6D 9500mAh NiMH. Giving me 2 hours runtime (calc as above). The 8-12 minutes of a shorty is not really long enough to use for anything much in a real world situation.
> 
> It is enough time to blow a few peoples minds, but I wouldn't ever want to have to rely on one in an emergency (and it's not even a good  like the 6D is)



This is why we need some better D-Cell sized LiIon cells with high capacity, preferably in safe chemistry like LiMnO2 (Emoli). Packing AAs into a D-Cell light leaves a lot of wasted space -- and NiMH are lower energy density to begin with, not to mention good battery adapters can be quite expensive. Right now one of my most used lights is a Philips 5761 in a 2D, with Kaidomain 5Ah LiIons, and an AW 3-level switch. On high I get about 45 mins, medium nearly two hours, low about 3 hours. Heat buildup isn't as much of a problem on low levels, either, so it can actually be run for extended durations.

This is from a "bad" LiIon with fairly poor energy density, and an overbearng short circuit proteciton which prevents it from being used in anything drawing more than 6A. But even then, it's still cheaper than buying 6 Eneloops and a decent battery carrier, and provides nearly 3x the runtime. 

Assuming someone doesn't come out with a good D-Cell in the near future, I may consider actually getting 4 of the Kaidomain D-Cells, stripping away the crappy protection circuits, and wiring my own pack with protection board and balancing taps to drive a 100W incan lamp like the 64138. Runtime woudl be more than double what I could get with 4xEmolis or a NiMH pack.


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## LuxLuthor (May 25, 2008)

That is an excellent guide. Very few people give the full documentaion so others can seen how to do it....so very great to see all your steps.

Again a real contribution to the commuinity. Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## jcvjcvjcvjcv (May 26, 2008)

Sweet..:naughty:

Why shouldn't we use the stock MagLite switch? Will it melt? Or too much resistance? (I don't care about that last thing.)

Would it be possible to use the crappy $1.49 KD 3AA > D adapters with Elite 1700 AA's? Or has every electric contact to be extremely fat?

Just an idea:
Maglite 6D
7x3 Elite 1700 AA
Osram 64657 24V 250W :devil:


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## 2xTrinity (May 27, 2008)

jcvjcvjcvjcv said:


> ... Or too much resistance? (I don't care about that last thing.)


You don't care that the flashlight you just spen $200 outputs significantly less than half of what it should, and is outputting a dull yellow color? That's what you can expect with a stock mag switch, even the philips 5761 is severely affected by the switch resistance, I nearly doubled output on mine by switching to an AW hotdriver switch, and this was with other resistance mods (bipin socket, copper wires to bypass tailspring etc) already implemented. The build you are suggesting is even higher current, therefore even more sensitive to resistance.

Not to mention that on a cold start, you will be able to hear audible arcing everytime you activate this switch. Essentiall, you're cerating a big fat arc that will gradually destroy your switch each time you use it.



> Would it be possible to use the crappy $1.49 KD 3AA > D adapters with Elite 1700 AA's? Or has every electric contact to be extremely fat?


Short answer: no.





> Just an idea:
> Maglite 6D
> 7x3 Elite 1700 AA
> Osram 64657 24V 250W :devil:


Those Kai reflectors have been known to melt running builds that draw less than 5 amps. The build you suggested is over 10 amps. Power dissipation in a resistor is proportional to the square of the current, so you'll be dissipating more than 4x as much power as necessary to melt them.

This by the way is why power companies run high voltage -- high current is a huge PITA to mess with as it requires heavy gauge wire and fat contacts in every part of your system.


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## jcvjcvjcvjcv (May 27, 2008)

Half the output; no way , or you must have a bulb were 1 V. loss means 50% less brigtness.

Check this topic:

16 full length AA in Mag 3D w/o extension = 200W superbulb stealth light (beamshots!)

He uses the stock switch (yes, at 10A) and he also uses a KD aluminium reflector.


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## Swagg (May 27, 2008)

I got a PM from Lux suggesting I use his "18.0V (15 cells) $75" pack for the 623 build I'm doing. I'm doing it in a Tri-bore 3D with AW's soft start, by your estimation, wouldn't this pack be a little too much? I guess with the soft start and low I could discharge the pack some though...

And as for KD's 3AA to 1D, NO. I just had a set melt in my ROP HI.


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## BMF (May 28, 2008)

jcvjcvjcvjcv said:


> Half the output; no way , or you must have a bulb were 1 V. loss means 50% less brigtness.
> 
> Check this topic:
> 
> ...


 


I think this is the link you're talking about.


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## jcvjcvjcvjcv (May 28, 2008)

Eh, Yep


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## Stereodude (May 28, 2008)

2xTrinity said:


> Those Kai reflectors have been known to melt running builds that draw less than 5 amps.


I've never seen any pictures of that. I'd love to see a thread on the issue.


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## LuxLuthor (May 29, 2008)

Swagg said:


> I got a PM from Lux suggesting I use his *"18.0V (15 cells) $75" pack for the 623 build I'm doing.* I'm doing it in a Tri-bore 3D with AW's soft start, by your estimation, wouldn't this pack be a little too much? I guess with the soft start and low I could discharge the pack some though...
> 
> And as for KD's 3AA to 1D, NO. I just had a set melt in my ROP HI.



Please be accurate if you are representing something we discussed in PM's. * I did not say that about using a 15 cell pack with a 623.* Luckily, I save copies of PM's and here is what I actually said, with specific reference in red, bold:
================================================================================
From : LuxLuthor
To : Swagg
Date : 2008-05-06 21:52
Title : Re: Run times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Remember those charts are for a very low resistance setup coming from power supply and using thick wire.

The average Mag setup and batteries probably has a resistance of at least 250 (or higher) milliohms, so with a bulb like the 64623 which uses 10.5 Amps, that resistance gives a drop in voltage of 2.6Volts (using Ohms Law)*Ohms Law: V=IR *

*V (drop) = 10.5 Amps x 0.25 Ohms*​*So generally you are best using a 13 cell pack which has a range of: 15.6V to 18.85V* (full charge of 1.45V per cell....which drops fast under demand), and with the drop from resistance (in comparison to my chart) will be an actual delivered voltage of 13V to 16.25V



Swagg said:


> ok, last question. I noticed in your bulb testing that the 64623 flashed at 16.9V. I am using a 3D with an AW soft start and multi-level switch, so the question is will your 16.8V pack be too much for the 64623? If I'm going to build a superlight I might as well push it to the max. I also read that lights are more efficient when driven harder so will the runtimes change from what you already stated with the higher pack? Thanks for your help, I will be buying two of your packs this month once I decide the exact builds I want.


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## Swagg (Jun 3, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Please be accurate if you are representing something we discussed in PM's. * I did not say that about using a 15 cell pack with a 623.* Luckily, I save copies of PM's and here is what I actually said, with specific reference in red, bold:
> ================================================================================
> From : LuxLuthor
> To : Swagg
> ...




Sorry about that, I overlooked the "13 cell pack"...I was recalling from memory and remembered the numbers but obviously not all of them. Again, sorry and I did not mean to misrepresent you just a simple mistake.


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## Crenshaw (Jun 4, 2008)

i'd like to ask, is this essentially a "torch"?

it uses the same bulb, and i assumes overdrives it just as much?

Crenshaw


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## Raoul_Duke (Jun 4, 2008)

One more cell than the original torch, so overdriven just a touch more.

I have had one ( more now ) for well over a year, and its a sweet light.


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## Crenshaw (Jun 4, 2008)

Raoul_Duke said:


> One more cell than the original torch, so overdriven just a touch more.
> 
> I have had one ( more now ) for well over a year, and its a sweet light.



sweet...looks like ill have to start accumalating parts again.anyone wanna sell me a tri-bore 2d mag next month? oo: 

Crenshaw


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## climberkid (Jun 4, 2008)

i may have to join in on this project in a few months as well (after i get my A2).


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## BMF (Jun 5, 2008)

Looks like 299792458m/s hasn't been around for quite a while, anyone knows? I'm waiting for the update of this guide.


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## Raoul_Duke (Jun 5, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> sweet...looks like ill have to start accumalating parts again.anyone wanna sell me a tri-bore 2d mag next month? oo:
> 
> Crenshaw



Five mega has some nice ones for sale at the minute


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## Swagg (Jun 5, 2008)

Well I have a tri-bore Mag 3D that I've got this build in, the only thing I need now is a LuxLuthor battery pack. I was confused on the battery stuff but once I figure out the right pack for the 3D size I'll be ready to roll. I just can't wait to fire this thing up for the first time! And with the AW multi mode this should end up being a useful light.


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## KiwiMark (Jan 14, 2009)

I am keen on building one of these Mag623 things - I have no need for one and they aren't particularly practical for normal torch uses, but how is THAT relevant?

Anyway I have everything I need on order, except the bulb itself . . . oooh, and the necessary batteries. I want to run it off 4 x Li-ion batteries in my 4D Maglite. I could get 4 x IMR 18650 cells which would be running just over 6C for their amperage, AW says they are good for 10C continuous. I am hopping to find a better power source though - I have asked AW if he can make some IMR 32400 cells, hopefully something like that would only need to output at 3C giving close to 20 minutes run time - I can live with that. If AW ends up doing a run of IMR 32400 then I will set up a 2.5D Maglite up as a Mag623. I have already ordered a couple of 34mm extension tubes from fivemega to allow me to lengthen one or 2 of my Maglites as required.

I see the first post mentions a 13 cell power pack (13 x 1.2=15.6V), I am looking at 4 x 3.7V = 14.8. Hopefully this means I will get a longer life out of each bulb, but a pretty good output. Lux Luthor's destructive tests suggest I will get 60+ hours out of a bulb if I keep it under 15V - if I only run 15 minutes before recharging batteries then that is 240 runs to a bulb. Are you guys running Mag623s getting anything like that life out of the bulbs?

Can someone quickly post a link here to the current best source for these bulbs please?


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## Raoul_Duke (Jan 15, 2009)

623 is a normal torch :thumbsup: AW's switch helps with that also.

I have been using 15.6 packs and 4 Emoli 26700 in a 6C, and 4 emoli in a Elle 2 for ages now, all work great :twothumbs

Lamps:
http://www.svetila.com/en/osram-lig...oto-film-stage-75/hlx-64623-12v-100w-570.html


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## ktafil (Jan 31, 2009)

That is really a super cool MOD
Love the detail in your post!


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