# 6v 55W H3 series Halogan Lamp



## Officer Thompson (Nov 4, 2008)

I seen this bulb the other day and was wondering if any one had put it into a maglite yet. If any one has done it could they give me a link to the thread, if not what would it take to get this working in a maglite, does anyone know if the bulb could be overdriven? I see the are rated at 1,000,000 candle light power and I thought they would make a hack of a maglite.


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## Flashanator (Nov 4, 2008)

That candlepower claim is utter BS mate. 

First thing.... forget about candle power, its a totally misunderstood term & not even important for your idea. Those bulbs arent good for overdriving.

A stock mag would melt under the heat from that lamp, so you would need to upgrade parts (reflector glass etc). Most high powered Mag mods don't use those automotive bulbs, they use bi pin bulbs that are potted & are far better.

For example I have a maglite mod that uses an overdriven 35watt lamp & will produce around the same or more light then that 6v 55w.

the Mag85 would be a great starting point IMO.

Im sure some Magmod gurus will step in & advise you more then I can.

Cheers.


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 4, 2008)

I was just wondering how bright it would be? I am running a 5761 maglite right now and it is very brighter would the 6v 55w be brighter? Is there a brighter mod then the 5761 that can run on 7.2 volts?


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## mdocod (Nov 4, 2008)

I have been considering trying a 6V 55W H3 mod for years, but never really got around to doing it. 

More watts, provided they are driven good and hard, does generally translate to more lumens, but it's not always the case. Depends on bulb design.... The best way to determine the validity of the 6V 55W H3 bulb option, would be to contact LuxLuthor and see if he would be willing to run it through the destructive incan test, ideally offer to send him some bulbs if he agrees to try them out. 

Eric


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## mdocod (Nov 4, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> I was just wondering how bright it would be? I am running a 5761 maglite right now and it is very brighter would the 6v 55w be brighter? Is there a brighter mod then the 5761 that can run on 7.2 volts?



The 64275 can hit similar or higher numbers if driven well, it's a better option for 2xEmoli or 6x high current AA cells if you want to reduce the risk of instaflash, but watt for watt it's a less efficient bulb (consumes close to 50 watts when overdriven hard). It's also an axial filament, so the beam is different than most are used to. 

Eric


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 5, 2008)

I might go out and by some H3 6v 55W bulbs and play around with them alitte they are not that pricey. Would I have to mod my switch?


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## mdocod (Nov 5, 2008)

It's going to take some substantial modification and fabrication to use one in a mag light. That type of bulb, overdriven, is going to run close to 10 amps, you will need everything redesigned to handle that type of crazy current flow. Special batteries, special switch, reduced resistance, custom bulb holder, reflector, etc.

Eric


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 5, 2008)

ok this is something I might just play around with. I'm sure the batteries I have now will work they are rated up to 40 amps. I know I can custom mod a reflector to fit it just fine. But I really don't have any ideas on the switch?? you have any recommendations?


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## mdocod (Nov 5, 2008)

I think I would suggest custom building a switch housing with an H3 bulb base on top, use a Judco 14V 10A rated reverse clickie from Digikey in the design. 

Out of curiosity; What batteries did you have in mind?


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 6, 2008)

Well the batteries I currently have in my 5761 are the same ones I would use for this light. There Tenergy sub-c batteries 1.2V 4,500mAh they say up to 40 amps.

heres a link to them on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/24-Pcs-of-Match...ryZ34061QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## Chodes (Nov 6, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> ok this is something I might just play around with. I'm sure the batteries I have now will work they are rated up to 40 amps. I know I can custom mod a reflector to fit it just fine. But I really don't have any ideas on the switch?? you have any recommendations?



I needed a high power switch for Mag use, here's what I'm doing:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2662547#post2662547


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## mdocod (Nov 6, 2008)

Something like what Chodes has built there is exactly what you would need to do, but with an H3 base on top...


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 6, 2008)

Hey nice job with the switch. If I get some free time on my hands i'm gona mess around with this a little. The bulbs are not bad priced about $7.00 for 2 of them. I think i'll start there see if I like the bulb and if it can be overdriven any.


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## 2xTrinity (Nov 7, 2008)

Another option for a high current switch is to use a power MOSFET to handle the 10A load, and then use the stock switch to turn on and off the transistor. 
I have used this method in some of my hotwires to reduce the total resistance of my host.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/182482 

here is a link to a guy who built a mosfet switch for a maglite. Check out the circuit diagram in the beginning to get the basic idea.


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 7, 2008)

Well I order 6 of the 6v 55w H3 bulbs today so I'll let you know if they can be overdriven any. I also seen the dorcy makes a 100w 6v H3 bulb. If I were to run the 100w bulb would these switches you guys are talking about still work? Or would I need a different switch. Also do you guys have any idea what the run time on something like this would be? I'm running 6 4500mAh but i'm guessing it would burn through them pretty quick, which it's not big deal i'm just gona keep it in my car on duty incase something runs in the woods or something.


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## Chodes (Nov 7, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> Well I order 6 of the 6v 55w H3 bulbs today so I'll let you know if they can be overdriven any. I also seen the dorcy makes a 100w 6v H3 bulb. If I were to run the 100w bulb would these switches you guys are talking about still work? Or would I need a different switch. Also do you guys have any idea what the run time on something like this would be? I'm running 6 4500mAh but i'm guessing it would burn through them pretty quick, which it's not big deal i'm just gona keep it in my car on duty incase something runs in the woods or something.



100w at 6V is close to 20Amps. I've heard people use the Judcos up to around 14-15A, 20A will be in experimental territory I think. Best to use a mosfet at that current. 
If your cells were 5000mAh, at 10A , runtime would be 30 mins theoretically.
So 10% less for 4500mAh - around 27 minutes absolute max. Expect 20-25 mins


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 7, 2008)

ok thanks alot, I seen they also have a 75w 6v so i'm guessing that would pull around 15 amps? I don't think I will be playing with the 100w and 75w I really don't need that much power in a maglite. I can always carry a shotlight in the trunk. The 5761 30w overdriven to 7.2 i am running now works very nicely, But i am still thinking I would like to go to 55w if I can and hopefully these h3 bulbs can be overdriven


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## Chodes (Nov 7, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> ok thanks alot, I seen they also have a 75w 6v so i'm guessing that would pull around 15 amps? I don't think I will be playing with the 100w and 75w I really don't need that much power in a maglite. I can always carry a shotlight in the trunk. The 5761 30w overdriven to 7.2 i am running now works very nicely, But i am still thinking I would like to go to 55w if I can and hopefully these h3 bulbs can be overdriven



Yep Ohms law. 
P=ExI: Power (watts) = E (Volts) x I (current)
So 60W = 6V x 10Amps - about 9.5A for 55W.
Using P/E to determine I : 75W/6V = 12.5Amps.
100W/6V = 16.7A.

100W/12V=8.3A - much more manageable current.

Not exact , resistances in light, voltage sag of cells etc but gives you a good idea.

Far more experienced and knowledgeable people than me might chime in - I think basic theory is 12V bulb much better design if going above 50W - double the volts so half the current , less problem for components and heat build up due to resistances in light components (and therefore voltage drop)


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## mdocod (Nov 7, 2008)

Chodes is absolutely right about the issues with a 6V 20A setup....

The advantage of 6V bulbs of massively high wattage ratings is that you can use less cells to drive them and therefor make smaller brighter configurations, if you are always comfortable with a light that is using a bunch of Sub-C cells, (so it's a larger light), then you may find that moving up into the 50-100 watt category can be done in the same size light, with better results, using a higher voltage, lower current setup. 

I didn't realize they made a 6V 100W H3... I'm going to go have to do a google search, you have me interested in a build option.... Wonder if the bulb could handle a pair of LiMn cells,....hmmmm... If not, a pair of A123 cells would work wonders with it...


Eric


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 9, 2008)

So what is the limit on the stock switch as far as amps go before it burns up. using the ohms law if I can overdrive the bulb to 7.2 it should drop the amps to 7.7? or is there a different formula when overdriving.


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## effulgentOne (Nov 9, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> So what is the limit on the stock switch as far as amps go before it burns up. using the ohms law if I can overdrive the bulb to 7.2 it should drop the amps to 7.7? or is there a different formula when overdriving.



Overdriven bulbs draw more power than they would at spec, it doesn't remain constant. Increasing the voltage will also increase the current, and both affect the power, so the bulb will, at 7.2V, probably draw well over 55W.


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## mdocod (Nov 10, 2008)

A 6V 55W driven to 7.2V would run at about 10.15 amp, 73 watt. Assuming it could handle that overdrive (unknown). A 6V 100W driven to 7.2V would be pushing about 18.5A, 133 watt. 

The mag switch without modification can run up to around 5 amps *usually.* if you do a simple "resistance fix" on the mag switch, it will probably handle 8-10 amps, but will still wear out the contacts quickly with that large a load to switch. Using a high current rated reverse clicker, or even a toggle or rocker style switch is is a much better solution that will be much more reliable and probably have lower resistance than even a resistance "fixed" mag switch.

Eric


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## thezman (Nov 10, 2008)

I took a H3 bulb apart (6v 55w) to get at the bipins and used it in a Mag with a KIU socket. I drove it with 8 freshly charged Eneloops and it only drew roughly 4.5 amps from a tail cap reading. This light has all the resistance fixes.

Output was nothing to right home about, on par with my Mag 1164 with 8 Eneloops.

I also have a handheld spotlight that I put a 12v 100w H3 bulb into and with hooking it up to a 12v SLA battery it only drew about 6 amps.

Why don't my real time measurements match your paper calculations?


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## thezman (Nov 10, 2008)

Okay, I ran another test with the 6v55w H3.

8 Eneloops, 1.30 no load voltage.
Measured the voltage at the bipin with the light turned on.
The cells sagged to 1v each and the amp measurement was 4.2

I am not going to pursue the H3 option any further.


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## mdocod (Nov 10, 2008)

Hi thezman,

There are plenty of possible things going on there, but it sounds to me like there is some major resistance getting in the way of current getting to that bulb for whatever reason, maybe the bulb was damaged when it was ripped from it's base? Maybe the multi-meter you are using in the circuit to make the current measurement has a lot of resistance somewhere, maybe the pack of eneloops isn't fully charged, maybe the 12V SLA is also not charged up all the way, (all it takes is month off the charger and they loose quite a bit), or maybe, the H3 bulbs you are trying are junkers afterall. It's also VERY possible that paper calculations just don't apply here, it has been my experience that automotive style bulbs do not follow the same rules as far as label ratings are concerned as the rest of the bulb industry. So there may be some major discrepancy between what it says it is and what it actually is...

Eric


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## Mr Happy (Nov 10, 2008)

It was definitely a 6 V 55 W bulb and not a 12 V 55 W bulb?

Because with 6 V at the pins, you would have to expect the 6 V bulb to draw about 9 A, rather than 4.5 A. With 8 V at the pins, you should see about 10 A.

On the other hand, a 12 V 55 W bulb should draw 4.5 A or so at 12 V, and not much less at 8 V due to the cooler filament.

I'm not sure what's going on, but something doesn't add up...


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## fivemega (Nov 11, 2008)

Mr Happy said:


> It was definitely a 6 V 55 W bulb and not a 12 V 55 W bulb?
> 
> Because with 6 V at the pins, you would have to expect the 6 V bulb to draw about 9 A, rather than 4.5 A. With 8 V at the pins, you should see about 10 A.
> 
> ...



*All automotive bulbs labled as 12 volts are really designed for 14 volts and this is the approximate voltage of battery when charging by regulated alternator. At this point their designed bulb life is several hundreds of hours for more reliability and durability against physical shocks and vibrations.
Years ago I adjusted external regulator of my car to 16 volts and changed sealed headlights with Hella reflector and H3 bulb. I had extremely bright and white headlights while I had to replace them every few months. Not to mention battery life was short too.
I have pushed these bulbs even further in handheld lantern using 18 NiMH of 4/3A cells.*



thezman said:


> I took a H3 bulb apart (6v 55w) to get at the bipins and used it in a Mag with a KIU socket. I drove it with 8 freshly charged Eneloops and it only drew roughly 4.5 amps from a tail cap reading. This light has all the resistance fixes.
> 
> Output was nothing to right home about, on par with my Mag 1164 with 8 Eneloops.
> 
> ...


*Most digital multi meters are not really good to measure high current circuits unless you replace leads with better gauges.*


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## Mr Happy (Nov 11, 2008)

fivemega said:


> *All automotive bulbs labled as 12 volts are really designed for 14 volts and this is the approximate voltage of battery when charging by regulated alternator. At this point their designed bulb life is several hundreds of hours for more reliability and durability against physical shocks and vibrations.*


OK, and by the same reasoning we may expect 6 V automotive bulbs to be designed for 7 V? So how do we explain a 6 V 55 W bulb only drawing about 4.5 A when it has 8 V across its pins? There is still a mystery here.


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## fivemega (Nov 11, 2008)

Mr Happy said:


> OK, and by the same reasoning we may expect 6 V automotive bulbs to be designed for 7 V? So how do we explain a 6 V 55 W bulb only drawing about 4.5 A when it has 8 V across its pins? There is still a mystery here.



*Advertised wattage is for attracting buyer unless they are brand name. Do you really think Ebay advertised 130 watt 9004 bulbs draw 9 amps?*


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## mdocod (Nov 11, 2008)

The 6V "automotive" bulbs sold as "spotlight" bulbs are usually specified for use in spotlights, I have always assumed that they were designed around the concept of operating from an SLA at around 6V without any expected voltage boost. They happen to share the standard automotive "base" "H3" as found in the industry... As FM pointed out, the 12V automotive bulbs are more like "14V" bulbs, (or maybe closer to 13.8V or whatever). I remember when there were various project ideas floating around for a boost driver for thor style spotlights to get over 15V to the bulb in those 12V H4 spotlights. There are probably some 6V H3 bulbs out there for ATVs and stuff that are designed with the higher voltage and actual power available to run at ~7V 55W... but I had always been under the impression that the spotlight only bulbs were designed to work pretty well at the 6V supplied by a bare SLA....

The automotive bulb market is about as sketchy as the automotive audio gear market, a lot of numbers that don't add up, a lot of false promises, a lot of fancy looking stuff that people fork over big dollars for, not realizing what a waste it is, etc etc etc. So anything wouldn't surprise me at this point. 

More thoughts:

I've seen some 6V spotlights with the "6V 55W H3" bulbs that don't really impress in any way worth mentioning, as they don't seem to be optimized properly, I am learning now in this thread, that it is very likely that they are not 55W bulbs at all after-all. I have however seen some 6V 55W spotlights that produced a brilliant white light from a 6V SLA, IIRC it was a vector spotlight that a friend of mine owns.... So there probably are some decent 6V H3 bulbs out there... just not sure where to source them..

I'm beginning to wonder about the concept of a 6V 100W H3, if it's even feasible, The total resistance from the battery to the bulb, including the filament would have to be ~0.36 ohm. Having such a low resistance bulb could cause problems, minor changes in the wiring leading to the bulb would have dramatic effects on drive level, I'm not sure that such a bulb could be implemented in an industry with so many variations from design to design.... Low voltage high wattage options really are limited for numerous reasons, there's probably numerous reasons that nobody offers a 3.7V bulb for tactical lights that runs at 5 amps, one of those reasons is it would be too sensitive to minor changes in the resistance leading to that bulb. 

Any further thoughts on this FM?

Eric


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## thezman (Nov 11, 2008)

Mr Happy said:


> It was definitely a 6 V 55 W bulb and not a 12 V 55 W bulb?



Positive it was a 6v bulb, pulled out of a cheap rechargeable spotlight.
I put 12v to it and it flashed.



Mr Happy said:


> I'm not sure what's going on, but something doesn't add up...



I agree, and with my limited knowledge of this stuff, I can't offer an explanation for this.



fivemega said:


> *Most digital multi meters are not really good to measure high current circuits unless you replace leads with better gauges.*



More than likely my problem. I'm using a Craftsman DMM.



mdocod said:


> I've seen some 6V spotlights with the "6V 55W H3" bulbs that don't really impress in any way worth mentioning, as they don't seem to be optimized properly, I am learning now in this thread, that it is very likely that they are not 55W bulbs at all after-all.
> Eric



I hooked this 6v bulb up again, directly to a 6v SLA battery and it drew less than 4amps, output was less than white. Your statement above probably rings true in this case.


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 11, 2008)

So theZman what was the highest you were able to overdrive the bulb before it went  and how many bulbs have you tried? I got 6 of these bulbs that I'm going to test but they're not here yet, I found them on ebay 6 for $12 so they are really cheap. Also I wouldn't mind running 12v instead of 6v but how would I get 12v in my 4-d maglite with around the same run time or better as 6 1.2v 4500mAh batteries.


Also I seen that homedepot I think had some 50w G4 base 12v bulbs that were pretty small and would be a nice option.


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## mdocod (Nov 11, 2008)

If you are willing to get rid of the concept of running automotive base bulbs, and move to bi-pins, then consider a KIU socket for the mag, and various battery packs and adapters to get the number of cells required. You can run 12 high current AA cells in a 4D mag and run various 20-100+W halogen bulbs. Check out LuxLuthors most powerful magmod list for ideas, I think it is in the threads of interest in the incan forum..

Eric


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## thezman (Nov 11, 2008)

Officer T,

8 Eneloops driving the 6V bulb worked out to about 8+ volts under load with no flash.

I only tried one 6v bulb. And I will not be trying any more.

Bipins and a KIU socket are the only way to go in my opinion.


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 11, 2008)

Yea the problem I see with going to 12v in my 4d is that I can't get long run time. Is there a way to get around the same mAh?

And I have more then one 4d so I am still planning on modding one for a H3 6v 55w bulb.


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## mdocod (Nov 11, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> Yea the problem I see with going to 12v in my 4d is that I can't get long run time. Is there a way to get around the same mAh?
> 
> And I have more then one 4d so I am still planning on modding one for a H3 6v 55w bulb.



12 1.2V cells of 2AH have the same stored capacity as 6 1.2V cells of 4AH capacity.

For the sake of argument, lets say you were going to build a ~30W mag mod in a 4D, using one of the 2 configuration options listed above:

The 7.2V option would have to run at 4.1666A to achieve 30W, runtime would be realistically about 50 minutes, while the 14.4V option would run at 2.0833A to achieve 30W, which would result in the same ~50 minutes of real runtime. 

When you double your voltage, you cut your current requirements in half to achieve similar output. Runtime is a factor of how much current you are pulling in relation to the capacity of the cell used.


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 14, 2008)

Well I got my bulbs in yesterday and spent a few hours working on trying to get it in my flashlight. 

Here was my first idea






Here is a picture of the bulb still in the package.






Got the bulb housing off of the bulb.






Got the bulb wired and mounted in the stock bulb housing.






Pic of the bulb in the switch housing.






And final the complete flashlight with the 1,000,000 Candle light power bulb

Now this worked but it had some problems with it. I do have a modded switch of I didn't seem to have any problems there but I did have alot of problems with the bulb. It is very bright and hot but getting it mounted in the stock house was a pain and didn't work very well. It was not 100% straight and I could not get the bulb to be focused which is what I want a shotlight not a floodlight. I did sand one of the bulbs bi-pins down and put it into my g4 bi-pin adapter but again I could not get a good focused beem. Now that I have broke 5 out of the 6 bulbs I got. I am thinking I am going to make the flashlight none adjustable and cut down the switch housing and mount the bulb in the h3 housing to the switch. If anyone has any other Ideas, I'd like to hear them.

I know that you really can't convert CLP to Lumens but if you would guess what do you think a Lumen output would be on this.


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## Flashanator (Nov 14, 2008)

well like I said.... CP isn't necessary to even speak of in this light mod.

Lumens tho, I heard a 55w H3 bulb @ 12v is around 1200-1500 lumens?

So what battery setup you got? The voltage must sag quite a bit with that heavy amp load.


Is that reflector housing plastic?


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## mdocod (Nov 15, 2008)

I'm also interested in knowing what battery configuration you are driving with, and how much current you are measuring across the tailcap


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 15, 2008)

well I will tell you that I was running 6 Tenergy 1.2v 4500mAh 40amp high current drain. As far as the sag goes I'll have to let you know when I get the new one built and mounted to the switch because right after I took these picture I broke this bulb and cut my hand. like I said in the above post I only have one of the 6 bulbs left and its still in the package. But I am going to order a new switch to mount it to and then I will get some reading. Also does anyone know what the bi-pins are probably made out of? you can't solder to them, so any ideas on how to mount to them.


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## Mr Happy (Nov 15, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> Also does anyone know what the bi-pins are probably made out of? you can't solder to them, so any ideas on how to mount to them.


Well no, you certainly can't solder to them -- the bulb gets hot enough in operation to melt any solder you used on the pins. The proper way is a ceramic bi-pin bulb socket. Failing that, you can improvise with European style screw terminals like this guy did: http://www.bigclive.com/halogen.htm


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 17, 2008)

So Since I broke all my bulbs and I am going to have to reorder some, I was thinking is going to the 12v 55w xenon bulb a better option? I have 4 (Dto3AA) converters coming anyways from kaidomain and if i'm lucky I will be able to overdrive it to around 14.4v.The price for these bulbs are a little bit more but still pretty cheap 2 for about 10 dollars. The run time would be about the same right? not good with the math part.


By chance does anyone know what he added lumens would be from the xenon bulb?


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## lctorana (Nov 17, 2008)

OK, you have a 4D Maglite and you would like to upgrade it.

How about buying a 4D:12AA battery holder, a Kiu socket kit, FM reflector, the lens out of a 2" magnifying glass, and an Osram 64610 bulb. Use 1 dummy cell.

That will see you to comfortably over 3000 lumens for about 20 minutes.


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## Mr Happy (Nov 17, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> So Since I broke all my bulbs and I am going to have to reorder some, I was thinking is going to the 12v 55w xenon bulb a better option? I have 4 (Dto3AA) converters coming anyways from kaidomain and if i'm lucky I will be able to overdrive it to around 14.4v.The price for these bulbs are a little bit more but still pretty cheap 2 for about 10 dollars. The run time would be about the same right? not good with the math part.


You're exceeding the limits a bit there. If it runs to spec the 12 V 55 W (xenon?) halogen bulb will draw 4.5 to 5 A. Those KD adapters are good only up to about 1 A. At 5 A the resistance will kill you. For big loads like that you will need much beefier AA to D adapters.


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## thezman (Nov 17, 2008)

Please post pics of all the melted pieces after you fire that puppy up. :devil:


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## Officer Thompson (Nov 18, 2008)

lol yea don't worry if anything melts down i'll be sure to let you know. 

But I did have the 6v 55w bulb running in my maglite on 7.2v and nothing melted or burned up so why do you think it would at 12v?


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## Chodes (Nov 18, 2008)

Officer Thompson said:


> lol yea don't worry if anything melts down i'll be sure to let you know.
> 
> But I did have the 6v 55w bulb running in my maglite on 7.2v and nothing melted or burned up so why do you think it would at 12v?



*We don't THINK it will. We know!*

No joke. Use those AA converters and you will melt stuff. If you are lucky , there will be no fire and not too much financial or personal physical damage. The IF needs emphasizing.
There is a good chance you will destroy all or some of your cells. 

It's not like this is a small risk. Unless the cells you have are defective , it will happen.
I would estimate 30 seconds to smoke and or crackling sounds.
The cause of the fire will be resistance. 

Don't get me wrong , I like pipe bombs as much as the next person , just prefer not to use old bits of pipe rather than mag bodies.

DELIBERATE use of sarcasm and bluntness to try to get the message across. You are planning a dangerous activity , I think it would be negligent not to try to "wake you up" to the danger.


PS - before the actual fire , you won't even get much light output. All the power of the cells will be being used to melt the AA adapters (If lucky , if unlucky , the mag body itself)


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## Chodes (Nov 18, 2008)

Here , don't take my word for it...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/187547&highlight=disaster

That was 6v , 20W.
You are planning on far exceeding this.


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## eebowler (Jan 14, 2009)

I have a 2M Cp spotlight. The bulb isn't new but not blackened. With two Emoli 18650 cells, (3.85Vea) I get 4.55A current flowing. With a LiPo at 8V, I get 4.8A..

I also have an Eiko 55W 6V bulb. With the undercharged Emoli, I get a current of 9.6A and with the LiPo, I get just over 10.3A current flowing. Bear in mind that this is a cheap DMM that isn't supposed to measure over 10A and that neither battery was fully charged at the time..


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