# Tad Customs E-series Bi-Pin Socket



## Fuchshp (Aug 18, 2016)

A few weeks ago I bought an E-Series Bi-Pin Socket from Tad Customs. A short time later a small box with the socket and four different bulbs arrived nicely packed. I don't know how this is possible for $3 shipping cost. 







It's well made and works absolutly flawlessly. I'm very happy with this socket. My Surefire E2e is my EDC since I've got Tad Costoms socket. 






The bulbs come in four variants:


NameVoltAmpereLumenBatteryA37123.71.2801x LiIonA37183.71.81401x LiIonA72127.21.22002x LiIon (IMR)A48124.81.21202x CR123A primaries


----------



## konifans (Aug 19, 2016)

Is the Olight 16340 protected? The length should be too long if it has protection PCB. I think IMR batteries (shorter, safer, higher discharge current) are recommended for this adapter.


----------



## Fuchshp (Aug 20, 2016)

Good Morning Konifans

That's right Olight Protected 16340 don't work. The size is ok but they don't fire up the bulb. IMR work beautifully. It's really, really bright for an E2. Last weekend I took the E2 with the A7212 bulb with me to Tamina Canyon in Switzerland which is extremely narrow and sometimes as dark as a cave. The E2 lit up the far away ceiling beautifully. Because of the incan tint it was better than any LED.


----------



## scout24 (Aug 20, 2016)

My adapter has shipped, I'm glad to hear all the positive reports...


----------



## DrafterDan (Sep 22, 2016)

I just came across these, and will order up a set with a range of bulbs to try out. It's similar to FiveMega's Strion project, but that was only for the A2 torches.






On mine, I had to machine a thin brass spacer, the only way I could get it to work. Must just be because I've got the Koala onion ring in the head as well. 

It will be interesting to see how this new item does with a standard E Elite or Defender.


----------



## Fuchshp (Sep 26, 2016)

I've tested the selection of Tad Customs bulbs for some time now. I like the A7212 bulb best. It is made for 2x LiIon, 7.2v / 1.2A, and puts out 200 lumen. The good thing about it is that it can also be used with 1x LiIon as a dim light. And it can be used with 2x CR123A primaries. The output is somewhere in the middle. Until now not one of my Tad Customs bulbs failed. 

People say that underdriven bulbs have a shorter lifetime. Why is this so?


----------



## chillinn (Sep 26, 2016)

I am so envious. Thanks for posting, you've made me want an E series even more.


----------



## konifans (Sep 26, 2016)

Fuchshp said:


> I've tested the selection of Tad Customs bulbs for some time now. I like the A7212 bulb best. It is made for 2x LiIon, 7.2v / 1.2A, and puts out 200 lumen. The good thing about it is that it can also be used with 1x LiIon as a dim light. And it can be used with 2x CR123A primaries. The output is somewhere in the middle. Until now not one of my Tad Customs bulbs failed.
> 
> People say that underdriven bulbs have a shorter lifetime. Why is this so?


To under drive a bulb, the lifetime will be very very very long!!:laughing: It never


----------



## ma tumba (Sep 26, 2016)

Fuchshp said:


> People say that underdriven bulbs have a shorter lifetime. Why is this so?


If a bulb is underdriven then the so called halogen cycle would be less efficient in getting evaporated tungsten back to the hot wire. I am not sure that this would really have the wire to die faster but this definitely leads to a faster formation of the black tungsten deposit on the inner glass surface


----------



## Fuchshp (Sep 26, 2016)

> black tungsten deposit on the inner glass surface



No problem, it gets even dimmer then.


----------



## novice (Sep 26, 2016)

DrafterDan said:


> ...It's similar to FiveMega's Strion project, but that was only for the A2 torches.



Fivemega did make a bi-pin adapter for the E2 series awhile back. Slightly different design, but same function.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?168327-(5th-Run)-E2e-Bi-Pin-socket


----------



## labrat (Sep 27, 2016)

DrafterDan said:


> I just came across these, and will order up a set with a range of bulbs to try out. It's similar to FiveMega's Strion project, but that was only for the A2 torches.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Fivemega made adapters for Bi-Pin bulbs for Surefire A2 as well as Surefire E1/E2 torches.
These 2 torches (E1/E2 and A2) are very different!
These 2 different adapters does not interchange without modifications!
And they can take many other bulbs than Strion bulbs!
The adapters for Surefire E1Elite heads and the old Surefire e1 drophead heads were also different.


----------



## novice (Sep 27, 2016)

Labrat,
I did not communicate what I wanted to, clearly, at all. I was trying to allude to Fivemega's previous E2 bulb adapter, and it's similarity in function to Tad custom's current E2 adapter. I muddled that up, and should have completely left the reference to the A2 out of my quote. Thank you for the clarification! I was also completely unaware of two different types of adapter for the E1.


----------



## Fuchshp (Sep 27, 2016)

The teardrop E1 doesn't take mn01 bulbs?


----------



## chillinn (Sep 28, 2016)

ma tumba said:


> If a bulb is underdriven then the so called halogen cycle would be less efficient in getting evaporated tungsten back to the hot wire. I am not sure that this would really have the wire to die faster but this definitely leads to a faster formation of the black tungsten deposit on the inner glass surface



The E I want to build will have modes, so the lamp may be rated for specifically only the high mode, but its likely the lower modes will be used more often longer. 

I wonder if there is a middle ground somewhere with type of use and when with H-bulbs, such that when they are new, if the practice is to "burn them in," drive them correctly or overdrive them for a period, the effect may be (idk, wishing, hoping here) such that then when underdriving them there is less yucky deposits on the glass blocking the light.

I can't wait to find out for myself!  Soon... er... some day... er... eventually... (what's holding me up is I don't just want any ol' E).


----------



## Bimmerboy (Sep 30, 2016)

Thanks for posting this thread, Fuchshp. I'm quite interested in this item for an E2E.

Looking forward to hearing more about this setup from any owners, especially with the 7212 and 3718 bulbs.

Thoughts on fit and finish, brightness, bulb focus, beam quality, etc. are much appreciated!


----------



## chillinn (Jan 15, 2017)

Since posting I picked up an E1e-BK off WTS (ty KennyC !!), which came with the stock MN01. I ordered and received an E-socket from Tad. I also picked up a LightSaver Miser tailcap (but the PWM is bad). Subsequently, though not looking for one, I found a deal on a custom bored E2E-HA w/ reversible clip, copper shroud & McClicky on eBay that was too good to pass up, but it didn't come with a lamp. 

Love the E-socket and A3712 bipin lamps for 4.2V, which still give a nice lower output using 3V CR123A. Using AW IMR 16340 15C cells, I find that the light is _too_ bright for nighttime use. I had intended to use the LightSaver moded tailcap, but found the PWM (which I can't see btw) to be intolerable. So I have been using 16340 only for daytime use, and swapping in CR123A for nighttime use, only using the Z61 tailcap.

When the bored E2E arrived, without a lamp, I decided to use my only Tad E-socket (intending to get more soon) with 18650 with it and use primaries in the E1e with the MN01, so I would have 2 compete and functional E-series lights until I get another E-socket. 

But each morning, I found myself wanting to carry a brighter E1e, and so was swapping the E-socket back in the E1e with 16340.

Well, can you guess how I screwed up? 

This morning when I swapped in the 16340, I forgot to swap in the E-socket which was still in the E2E. That poor MN01 breathed its last in a fraction of a second. :'(

When able, I'll be ordering TWO MORE E-sockets, even though I don't have a third E yet, to anticipate and also reduce the probability of screwing up again (because I will likely acquire more MN01 lamps that will come along with more E1e acquisitions).

So I have lost an MN01, and I'm back to one functional E-series light. What I have gained, however, is the wisdom that running CR123A primaries is perfectly valid, considering they are safer to run empty, they're triple the capacity of 16340, and Titanium Innovations CR123A (which selfbuilt himself uses) can be had from Battery Junction for just under a buck each in bulk with free ship. Even though the E1e is not regulated, I find that on CR123A the output is very constant for over an hour before it drops off. 

I did not expect that running 16340's would be so bright! I think it is brighter than my incan A2 (also with Tad A2-socket w/ underdriven A4812 bipin lamp and 2x16340 8C). I also didn't expect the LightSaver incan PWM to bother me, but I can't tolerate it for more than a few minutes before I start to feel the brain-ache coming. Using a moded tailcap with 16340 was all part of the plan, for reduced brightness and increased runtime. But unless someone develops and offers a CC moded incan E-series tailcap, my E1e modes will be battery-driven only.


----------



## konifans (Jan 16, 2017)

chillinn said:


> Since posting I picked up an E1e-BK off WTS (ty KennyC !!), which came with the stock MN01. I ordered and received an E-socket from Tad. I also picked up a LightSaver Miser tailcap (but the PWM is bad). Subsequently, though not looking for one, I found a deal on a custom bored E2E-HA w/ reversible clip, copper shroud & McClicky on eBay that was too good to pass up, but it didn't come with a lamp.
> 
> Love the E-socket and A3712 bipin lamps for 4.2V, which still give a nice lower output using 3V CR123A. Using AW IMR 16340 15C cells, I find that the light is _too_ bright for nighttime use. I had intended to use the LightSaver moded tailcap, but found the PWM (which I can't see btw) to be intolerable. So I have been using 16340 only for daytime use, and swapping in CR123A for nighttime use, only using the Z61 tailcap.
> 
> ...


 I think it is better to get one more E1 or E2... in different color! I killed my MN02 in the similar case...


----------



## vicv (Jan 16, 2017)

Unfortunately there's no such thing as current controlled Incan. They're controlled by voltage and pwm. Hopefully tad will have his 3V bulb available soon. Want to try it in a minimag


----------



## chillinn (Jan 16, 2017)

vicv said:


> Unfortunately there's no such thing as current controlled Incan. They're controlled by voltage and pwm. Hopefully tad will have his 3V bulb available soon. Want to try it in a minimag



edited post:
ugh, realized my post is way too off topic, don't want to mess up this thread. It deserves better. I'll post a new thread... hope you don't mind vivc, I'm taking your quote along with me for the new thread.


----------



## chillinn (Jan 17, 2017)

I picked up a 1AA MDC body from dhunley, and I really like it with the Elite head. I have a quad of AW IMR 14500 cells, but I would like the option to run AA Eneloops, with the caveat and understanding that brightness will not be impressive, though runtime will increase considerably. For this to work, I will need a voltage-matched lamp. I can probably work out the voltage and current necessary (but feel free to offer recommended V & C values), but what escapes me is what the bipin lamp size is named for a bipin lamp that fits properly in the Tad Customs E-socket. 

Anyone know the industry name for this lamp size?


Also, it occurs to me I have been playing fast and loose since getting interested in and using incan. The study of LED and cell safety that came before (for me) does not precisely apply. I did find this helpful thread, but it is old, cells have changed somewhat since then.

If anyone has the ability to test Tad Customs socket and the lamps in the first post for accurate figures for current draw, and post them, I am certain we would all benefit from the effort and appreciate it, (even if Tad Customs gives us those figures).

edit:
In my correspondence with Tad, I have learned that his bipin lamps are made custom for his sockets, and are not standard size. We will have to use trial and error to find a standard bipin that fits perfectly.

But with an idea _I believe_ bykfixer suggested elsewhere (but with a Mini Mag lamp, can't find that post), using a Brinkmann 1xAAA (Mag bipin, more or less) lamp I had, I stuffed it into the socket, and tried it out with an AA Duracell with Elite head and Malkov MDC 1AA body. The lamp is unfocused, filament sitting too far above the socket to be focused by the reflector, leaving a dark doughnut hole in the beam profile. So I trimmed about 1/8th inch off the bipins, and stuffed it back in the socket. And viola, focused beam with a tight hot spot. It looks just like an MN01 with really low charge on a CR123A, maybe 4-8lm, for a few minutes. idk if it is because it is a Brinkmann lamp, but it is easily twice as bright as a Solitaire lamp, for a time. The cell I used wasn't brand new. Anyway, this works, more or less, for purposes of low level incan for tired or dark adapted eyes, with expected longer runtime and brightness than a Solitaire. It will only get better if a lamp could be discovered that is optimized for Eneloop NiMH voltage and current, to give a steadier and brighter output. But it is very close to what I was looking for, which is... well, it's an incan fixed focus Mini Mag Shorty clicky, but solid as a rock. This should also work with LiFePO4 14500 and a Mini Mag LM2A001 lamp, or with LiMn 14500 with a Lamptronix LM2A001 lamp, for AAA Mini Mag brightness, or AA Mini Mag brightness, respectively. I doubt many others will recognize its virtue, but I really like it. 

edit2:

######## w00t ##########

Be prepared to be unimpressed. Are you sitting down? About a week ago, I wrote Tad to request that he offer a bipin lamp for his E-socket that was optimized for a single Eneloop. Unfortunately, and I understand why (not enough interest), it is not meant to be. But I was premature.

Ages ago, it seems now, I remember asking somewhere around these parts what an MN01 would do on an AA cell, and I was pretty much shot down for asking such silliness. "Won't work, no light." idk if it was scout24's tests earlier today (yesterday?) that inspired me or not, but feels just like unconsious luck what I did and have discovered.

Just for the heck of it, expecting absolutely no light, bulb not firing, I put an Eneloop in my MDC 1AA with Tad Customs E-socket and A3712 lamp (optimized for 16340 4.2v... 80lm) and IT WORKS! It's about 1 or 2lm, as bright as an original krypton Solitaire. Tint is yellowy, but it is a still a beautiful sight. I usually wake in the evenings and I am up all night, but when I wake, my eyes are _extremely sensitive_. Even the stock xenon Solitaire I have found irritating, and planned on buying old stock of the krypton lamps. So, for the first half hour or so, I have resigned myself, to avoid pain and tearing, to using a light with a Cree X-PE Red LED until my eyes wake up a little, then move to progressively brighter incan lights, starting with Efest IMR10440 and Lamptronix in a Solitaire (which is initially too bright, actually), and eventually I work my way to Li-ion with A3712 for the ceiling bounce by about dawn. 

Red can be a real drag, cannot distinguish any color, and that wavelength makes it difficult to focus. Now, I have a near ideal solution, and I had it all along.

I did not think I was going to be a customer for Tad Customs A3012 "coming soon" lamps for 1xCR123A, because the A3712 works fine with 1xCR123A even if it is not optimized for the cell, but less light was actually what I was after. But now I realize I will be purchasing some of those when available because I expect on an Eneloop, it might give me a couple more lumens over the A3712, which will be supurb. 4 lumens on a safe chemistry, and a lamp that won't quit, and I will be a very happy customer (already am).

In before vicv complains, yeah, YELLOW! Warm incan! It is BEST (short of going all red light) for super-sensitive waking eyes when the ambient light is pitch black.

Ok, I warned that no one would be impressed, no one is falling out of their chair on this news, unless they are laughing at me, but I think this is about as kick-*** as can be.


----------



## ma tumba (Mar 9, 2017)

I wonder if Tad's bulbs have the same footprint as FM1499, or in other words, if the 1499 would fit Tad's M series sockets?


----------



## novice (Mar 9, 2017)

I didn't even think of asking this question until ma tumba posted above. Do Tad's "A-series" bulbs have a T1.5 base (1.5mm pin-center to pin-center)?


----------



## chillinn (Mar 9, 2017)

ma tumba said:


> I wonder if Tad's bulbs have the same footprint as FM1499, or in other words, if the 1499 would fit Tad's M series sockets?





novice said:


> I didn't even think of asking this question until ma tumba posted above. Do Tad's "A-series" bulbs have a T1.5 base (1.5mm pin-center to pin-center)?




I spoke to Tad about the standard size of his lamps, and his lamps are custom made, are not specified by any standard size. 

However, we can work around this absense of precise info. 

First, anyone with digital calipers small enough to accurately measure the distance between the pins in T.customs lamps can tell us what that base would be if it was standard (my understanding is the standard "Gx.xx" base names are based on the distance of the bipins in mm). 

Secondly, the same individual can measure the depth or length of the pins to the base of the lamp, but we need a third measurement to extend up to the location of the filiment, not just to the base, or from the top lip of the socket to the filiment, so that the filiment of a possible replacement lamp could be placed at the proper location once seated in the socket and reflector such that the beam will be focused.

IMO, the object here is not to undercut T.customs outrageous lamp prices (they are quite inexpensive, actually), but instead to discover lamps with different specifications that T.customs does not and probably will never offer, such as a .5A 1.2V lamp or some such craziness.

Beyond the "coming soon" 3012 lamp T.customs is advertising, I know Tad is looking for a few more lamps to offer. I suggested to him a possible 3007 lamp that would more closely match the output and runtime of an MN01. Because there are so many different compatible battery tubes, thus many different possible battery and voltage configurations for E-series, T.customs could probably offer 15 different lamps with different specifications and still not be comprehensive enough to cover all the desired possibilities.


----------



## chillinn (Mar 15, 2017)

A big cheers to Tad!

I think I made my last order for 2 E-sockets confusing by requesting 2 different lamps with each socket, and further confusing by adding 10x lamps different from the 2 different single lamps I ordered with each socket. Tad accidently sent me one E-socket and one A2-socket. When notified, he bid me to keep the A2-socket for my future possibilities, and he immediately sent out the extra E-socket, no extra charge, which arrived today, and also...

sent me a single as yet unavailable *A3012 45lm lamp*... and well marked for which chems to avoid when using it lest 

I'll probably try out the new A3012 tonight with E1E and CR123A. A3012 is not yet available on his website, but expected soon.

W00t!! Thanks, Tad!


----------



## ma tumba (Jun 30, 2017)

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...DS-group-buy&p=5110498&viewfull=1#post5110498

Just wanted to share that post here. The first led "upgrade" with tint better than that of an incand.


----------



## Daniel_sk (Jul 1, 2017)

Is anyone willing to take beamshots comparing all the bulbs from Tad? That would be very helpful I think. For example is the difference between A3712 (80 lumens, 1.2A) and A3718 (140 lumens, 1.8A) that noticeable in real word (the brighter bulb draws 50% more - so I guess half the runtime)? I am thinking about using it with a Keeppower 16650 in E2E.


----------



## Filip (Jul 17, 2017)

Not exactly what you are asking for but you may find it useful:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ad-s-customs&p=4906993&viewfull=1#post4906993

and

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ad-s-customs&p=4907165&viewfull=1#post4907165

I think the pictures are in this order:

4.8V 1.3A (not 1.2A which is offered now)
3.7V 1.8A
MA-02 (1.55A)

Filip


----------



## Daniel_sk (Jul 17, 2017)

Thank you. I have bought both the 1.2 and 1.8A bulbs (3.7V) - I tried to compare it by swapping the bulb in my SF E2E and I don't see much difference in real world, I guess the 1.2A will be better for general use - and with ~50% more runtime. I am using it with a Keeppower 2500 mAh, so maybe I could get 2 hours of 80 lumens on an E2E for free :naughty:. I need to buy a 16350 for the E1E and then I can compare both bulbs at the same time. I am planning to take some beamshots as long as I figure out how to manually set the exposure and other parameters on an iPhone 7.


----------



## Filip (Jul 17, 2017)

Could you please compare the A3712 and A3718 in your A2, provided you still own one? I am curious if the diference is negligible in A2 as well. It would be very helpful to me since I am on the fence of ordering a kit from Tad.


----------



## Daniel_sk (Jul 17, 2017)

Sure - but probably on Wednesday soonest. I did a quick test after receiving the A2 bipin and the difference seemed neglible - well not worth justifying the 50% shorter runtime. I wish I had 2 A2s to compare them side-by-side . I also have the Strion bi-pin kit, but Strion bulbs are difficult and expensive to get. 
I wish the SF A2 would work with the Keeppower but the voltage is too low and it also won't fit :mecry:. So the only option is either primaries or IMR - with about 37 minute runtime. I can get much more runtime in the SF E2e - but without regulation or secondary LEDs...


----------



## troller_cpf (Jul 20, 2017)

I also have both the 3712 and 3718 bulbs from Tad and I tried them both on my A2.
The 1.2A was already brighter than the stock A2 bulb, and the 1.8A didn't really show significant difference.
So I decided to leave the 1.2A bulb which should yield almost 80 minutes of regulated runtime on the a2 (assuming the cutoff is at 20% battery power).

I honestly think that the 3712 bulb is the best bulb for A2 / E2 !


----------



## Daniel_sk (Jul 20, 2017)

troller_cpf said:


> the 1.2A bulb which should yield almost 80 minutes of regulated runtime on the a2 (assuming the cutoff is at 20% battery power).


At first I was a bit skeptical about your 80 minutes runtime claim - since the MA02 lamp has a 60 minute runtime (on primary CR123A). I have found one post that mentions a 1.55A draw for the MA02. So considering that the TAD bulb is 1.2 - it could actually have a longer runtime...:thinking: The 3712 may have a tighter spot and less spill - so it could appear brighter than the MA02? I don't have a MA02 right now to compare.


----------



## ma tumba (Sep 27, 2017)

Just wanted to share: a 2xAA minimag bulb fits this socket great and provides wonderfully tight beam when powered by a CR123a cell. So this gonna be the low lumen bulb for an e1e


----------



## mk2rocco (Sep 27, 2017)

ma tumba said:


> Just wanted to share: a 2xAA minimag bulb fits this socket great and provides wonderfully tight beam when powered by a CR123a cell. So this gonna be the low lumen bulb for an e1e


Nice, I'll try that out.


----------



## chillinn (Nov 3, 2017)

Thought about posting a new thread, but I suppose this belongs here. The thread title would have been "7212: wow!" 

I have three Tad Customs E-sockets (had 4 but lost one with an E1E a few months ago, ouch), and one E-socket is about to be gifted with another E1E, so I'll need to replace that socket and really get a few more when I can for other lights used with Elite heads (been sharing the 3 sockets around 5 lights). I am independently destitute, so no telling when I can afford it.

I am living in a shack in the woods, and my most used lights these days are E1E and E2L AA w/ Elite head. During the day, and into the evening, I run the E1E with AW IMR16340, but at some point I switch to 3V primaries in the night. My eyes love it, no ouch. The E2L AA w/ Elite head is a close match to the output of the E1E with primary, and that Outdoorsman gets the most hours because I use it as a lamp for hours on end, 10 eneloops a night, more or less. I run the 3712 in both, though Tad sent me a single 3012 some time ago to demo, and I used it until it died; it is much nicer with primaries in E1E than the 3712, but I don't mind the 3712 w/ 3V or 2xAA. Still, I am anxiously waiting for the 3012 to become available.

Tad also sent me a 7212 to try, and I never used it. I had 6xAW IMR14500 cells when I moved in and was using them in Malkoff bodies with Elite heads, but I killed 2 cells. idky, but I kill 14500s when somehow I am able to not kill the 16340s (also just 6 of those). This morning before dawn, I decided to give the 7212 test drive, with the E2L AA with 2x14500s (only 2 of the 4 left had matching voltages).

Wow. Close range does it no justice. I didn't realize how bright that is until I went walking around. Beautiful morning, been cold and wet recently chilling my bones used to FL, now way north, and it is technically pretty warm ~57°. 

What is it with incan that they are deceptively dim, until you shine it so the beam stretches out... a hundred yards of beam, and then you see holy moly, *that is bright!* 

Compared to my brightest light, 500lm SC5w OP, the ZebraLight is way way brighter up close, but the Ourdoorsman w/ 7212 destroys those LED 500lm with any distance of 40 yards or more, and I know it isn't 500lm of incan. Tad's page lists 7212 factory rated at 80lm (edit: oops! 200lm, still tho), but that is probably with 7.2V, and my cells taken together were close to 8.36V. But how can that be brighter than 500lm??? It is nutty. Can't explain.

I want more E2L AA 'Outdoorsmen' and 14500s and 7212 lamps, might try for FiveMega 2x18650 host. 

Anyway, tl;dr - 7212 recommended.


----------



## konifans (Nov 3, 2017)

chillinn said:


> Thought about posting a new thread, but I suppose this belongs here. The thread title would have been "7212: wow!"
> 
> I have three Tad Customs E-sockets (had 4 but lost one with an E1E a few months ago, ouch), and one E-socket is about to be gifted with another E1E, so I'll need to replace that socket and really get a few more when I can for other lights used with Elite heads (been sharing the 3 sockets around 5 lights). I am independently destitute, so no telling when I can afford it.
> 
> ...



If you don't want to kill the li-ion / IMR, try some Lifepo4 such as Soshine unprotected 14500 or 16340, with the new bulb A6010. 
Lifepo4 is hard to be killed even if it is over discharged to 0.1V. Also, Lifepo4 is as safe as AA batteries!


----------



## chillinn (Nov 3, 2017)

konifans said:


> If you don't want to kill the li-ion / IMR, try some Lifepo4 such as Soshine unprotected 14500 or 16340, with the new bulb A6010.
> Lifepo4 is hard to be killed even if it is over discharged to 0.1V. Also, Lifepo4 is as safe as AA batteries!



Good idea, they are forgiving, would be worth the loss of capacity. I do have a couple quads of 10440 LifePO4 for my Soli w/ MiniMag lamps... the lower voltage doesn't blow the MiniMag lamps like Efest IMR10440 (though I still have a stash of lamps that can handle the IMR, seem to last forever). LiFePO4 cost an arm and a leg to ship from China, which is really the only major issue with LiFePO4. Any domestic source for LiFePO4 AA/14500?


----------



## bykfixer (Nov 3, 2017)

WalMart sells them for 'lectric toothbrushes, shavers etc. Home Depot calls them "solar lamp" batteries.


----------



## chillinn (Nov 7, 2017)

I see Lowe's sells Duracell 14430 LifePO4 cells. Spacer needed to fit an AA/14500 tube? Yes, that is 4/5AA size. ><

Also found this Tenergy LiFePO4 AA quad, but I see spec for max continuous discharge is 1C. Can that safely drive incan, 1200mA? I'm already aware Tenergy's 16340 LiFePO4 cannot handle incan. 

These 500mAh Exell intrigue me, for domestic ship, and unlike most unrecognized LiFePO4 AA labels, the reasonably honest capacity claim. No discharge specs.

My understanding is LiFePO4 is a popular consumer chem in Chinese markets. Anyone know what labels/manufacturers are most popular for 3.2V AA there?

Also considering (all this is for Malkoff AA body w/ Elite head) going with multiple cell NiMH for maximum safety... but the capacity is crushed (compared to AA NiMH, about the same or less than the IFR14500 above).


----------



## konifans (Nov 8, 2017)

chillinn said:


> I see Lowe's sells Duracell 14430 LifePO4 cells. Spacer needed to fit an AA/14500 tube? Yes, that is 4/5AA size. ><
> 
> Also found this Tenergy LiFePO4 AA quad, but I see spec for max continuous discharge is 1C. Can that safely drive incan, 1200mA? I'm already aware Tenergy's 16340 LiFePO4 cannot handle incan.
> 
> ...



I have been using those Chinese made 16340 / 14500 (AA) LiFePo4 batteries for long time, usually with 1.2A bulb. 
I also use 16340 LiFePo4 in my Fenix TK15UE, that is 2.4A at high output. 
All work well, and I did not see any decrease of capacity.
I think all brands out there are all relabeled Chinese made batteries, they are all quite similar.


----------



## Lumen83 (Nov 8, 2017)

I have an A2 with the bi pin socket and the 3718 bulb. Its noticeably brighter and a little bit whiter than stock. I'm very happy with it. I just picked up another A2 and ordered the bi pin adapter with the 3712 bulb. I will do a comparison of both and report back.


----------



## The_Driver (Nov 15, 2017)

chillinn said:


> Compared to my brightest light, 500lm SC5w OP, the ZebraLight is way way brighter up close, but the Ourdoorsman w/ 7212 destroys those LED 500lm with any distance of 40 yards or more, and I know it isn't 500lm of incan. Tad's page lists 7212 factory rated at 80lm (edit: oops! 200lm, still tho), but that is probably with 7.2V, and my cells taken together were close to 8.36V. But how can that be brighter than 500lm??? It is nutty. Can't explain.



I get your love for incans, but the Zebralight is a floody light. Your Outdoorsman just has a higher luminous intensity (throw). That's all there is to it. If you compare it to an LED thrower there wont be such a large difference, only the tint and color rendering.


----------



## vicv (Dec 2, 2017)

Has anyone tried the newer full size maglite bi pin bulbs in these. Could make some interesting combinations. I know a 5c/d works great on 2 rechargables


----------



## bykfixer (Dec 29, 2017)

Sooooooooooo....
The Tads bulb chart shows the 3712 bulbs go with an A2 with 2 primaries. Yet no mention of E2 on primaries. First mention of 2 primaries in an E2 is the 4012 series. It also says the A2 underdrives the 4012 series. 

Does an E 'flow' better than the A, therefore murdering the 3712 in an E2 with 2 primaries?
Just wanted to find out if my E2 will  3712's before I place an order. More 3712's or is the 4012 required?

I'm not concerned about the brightness part as I probably wouldn't notice any difference between 80 or 120 lumens. 
Thanks for any responses. 

Happy New Year


----------



## chillinn (Dec 29, 2017)

bykfixer said:


> Sooooooooooo....
> The Tads bulb chart shows the 3712 bulbs go with an A2 with 2 primaries. Yet no mention of E2 on primaries. First mention of 2 primaries in an E2 is the 4012 series. It also says the A2 underdrives the 4012 series.
> 
> Does an E 'flow' better than the A, therefore murdering the 3712 in an E2 with 2 primaries?
> ...



hey, bykfixer,

the lamp designations are in code, first two digits is the lamp voltage rating * 1/10 , second two is the lamp amp rating * 1/10.

The A2 as you probably know is regulated IIRC at 5v, the LED's are direct drive split between 3 LED's, so the battery voltage matters less than in an E2 which is unegulated.

I would expect the lack of mention of primaries for E2 is oversight, and for all intents and purposes, anything designated on Tad's lamp chart for LiFePO4 (3.2v nominal in the range of 2.5v-3.7v) would be about the same for primaries (3v nominal in the range of 2.5v-3.4v). Thus running 2 primaries you have about 6v nominal, and the 6010 lamp stands out as a good choice for good runtime, though the 4812 will be overdriven (and I expect brighter, though the chart seems to disagree), maybe it'll have a little less runtime with the amp draw... honestly, idk, just making guesses LOL

Check the chart again, tho, the 3712 is not recommended with 2 primaries in E2 and may be fine in A2 because of the 5v regulation. IOW 3712 will definitely  with 6v.


----------



## bykfixer (Dec 29, 2017)

Thank ya brutha man.

Being a SureFire newb I was not aware the A2 is regulated. Makes sense why Tad shows the 3712 for an A2 but not E2 as the A is throttled back some.

The 6010 looks perfect. Why my eyes kept passing over that one? I dunno. Like you say, that should yield a good runtime and be plenty bright, yet not noticeably under driven since it's made for such a wide (LifePo) range. 

Thanks for taking the time to explain all that. 6010's it is...


----------



## chillinn (Dec 29, 2017)

bykfixer said:


> I was not aware the A2 is regulated.



Afaik, though I am pretty certain incan Mag modders have explored drivers, and thus possibly regulation, the incan A2 Aviator is the only regulated incandescent ever mass produced.

The A2 is famous, but for me personally, too bright, though it gives me, as a point of departure, ideas on things I want that I can't have without development, like tail driver regulators and modes for incan-E (Lightmiser tails are not regulated, but the modes also inspire desire for things I can't have, like proper mode sequence, LMH, and constant current).


----------



## bykfixer (Dec 29, 2017)

Thanks for the info Chillin'. I dig a tailcap that acts like a gas pedal too. 

I knew PK designed a regulated incan but did not know it was the A2.

I'm going to try a Tads customs for E series with a 1.5 volt T1 bulb (3mm spread) for an MDC 1aa with an incan E head at some point. 

That should make a bomb proof 2am nature call light that doubles as a David vs Goliath tool if need be.


----------



## vicv (Dec 29, 2017)

The 4812 is the bulb you want for an e2e with primaries. The 6 v bulb is meant for 2x lifepo4 cells and will be very under driven on 2 primary cells


----------



## chillinn (Dec 29, 2017)

bykfixer said:


> I'm going to try a Tads customs for E series with a 1.5 volt T1 bulb (3mm spread) for an MDC 1aa with an incan E head at some point.



Is that a soli lamp? I'd like to find a 1.5v subamp lamp that fit Tad's E-socket, so I can run 4/3A NiMH in an e2e for insane subluminal runtime.

also, LiFePO4 run about where primaries voltage is fresh, so vicv has a valid point, but I don't know about _very_ underdriven... lamp is clearly rated for 6v, so for some of their runtime, primaries should fire that properly, and it's also the case LiFePO4 overdrive the 6010 slightly. Underdriving lamps offends some... but there is a tradeoff of better runtime and the lamp lasting longer. But I have to concur (now corrected) that the 4812 is probably the best offering for primaries, to get the filament firing to vicv's required specifications, and get your tint hotter and whiter. I run 3712's on NiMH. What of it? LOL


----------



## vicv (Dec 29, 2017)

The primaries drop significantly under load. Under that load to about 2.4v. Double that is 4.8v. It's there on his website showing what lamps are for what hosts and batteries


----------



## bykfixer (Dec 31, 2017)

Thanks for the info fellas.

I'll order an adapter kit on his eBay store. Comes with a 3712, 3718, 4018 and 7212 (I can use in a 2C Mag-mod)


----------



## rjking (Feb 18, 2018)

it seems no one has actually done any runtime test on any these bulbs.


----------



## konifans (Feb 21, 2018)

rjking said:


> it seems no one has actually done any runtime test on any these bulbs.


It just depends on the battery. A xx12 bulb means something about 1.2A, so if the battery you are using is a Sanyo 2500mah, that will be about 2 hours.


----------



## DayofReckoning (Jun 12, 2019)

I've been running the Tads Bi Pin Adapter in my E2E for about a month. Can't say enough good about it.

Take my word for it, you haven't seen the Tad's Lamps until you've seen them driven by good quality 26650 cells. Came into possession of a FiveMega E Body, and a 26650 extender, and have been running the 3712 and 7212 lamps. You really don't realize how anemic the 16340/16650 cells are until you run Tads Lamps under cells like these.







The 3712 is the real winner out of all Tad's lamps IMO. Running on the 26650, it is noticeably brighter and whiter than on the 16650. The 3712 might as well be regulated with this setup. The discharge curve is very flat at 1.2A with this lamp.​ I've swapped back and forth between the 3712 and 3718 many times now, and have decided that the 3718 is not worth the massively reduced runtime, even when you have 5200mah of capacity on tap. the only advantage the 3718 has is that the hotspot is much larger than the 3712. 






The 7212 is stunning off of two 26650's. Just a massive, white hotspot. Should run nice and long too on this setup.

I'm considering tinkering around with under driving a few Tad's lamps with a single 26650. What would be the best choice between the 4812, 6010, or 7212?


----------



## id30209 (Jun 12, 2019)

DOR you have serious setup brother!
That exactly is what i want to confirm. Been using 7212 in my E2 with AW’s.
Few months ago i’ve put one in Tad M3 adapter, Z46 head and 18650 Leef with 2x18350. 
Man, that is some serious output out of this tiny bulb. 
Just to be sure it’s not only because of bigger reflector, i have installed it back into E2 head and installed on E-C 18650 Leef with, again, 2x18350.
Yeap, i was right a lot brighter. Just love the hotspot. Some of my hicri 4000K emitters look pale ne t to it.


----------



## DayofReckoning (Jun 12, 2019)

id30209 said:


> DOR you have serious setup brother!
> That exactly is what i want to confirm. Been using 7212 in my E2 with AW’s.
> Few months ago i’ve put one in Tad M3 adapter, Z46 head and 18650 Leef with 2x18350.
> Man, that is some serious output out of this tiny bulb.
> ...



Thanks id. I agree, the 7212 is an excellent bulb. The hotspot is beautiful, especially considering the fact that it's coming from a small inexpensive bulb, versus the expensive precision engineered Surefire Lamps. 

The tiny, shallow reflector of the E2E truly amazes me at times, the quality of the beam, and most of all, the amount of throw it can produce provided you push enough lumens. 

The worst part about having the Tad's Customs Adapter is sitting around thinking of all the different types of lamps you would like to have that he doesn't offer right now. Tad's has an excellent selection, but as flashaholics, there can never be too much. I would like to see more 7.4V options, a 1.0A and a 1.8A Lamp for starters.

I've been trying hard to get the Lightsaver Miser Tailcap guts to work in the new light. I just can't get it working properly. Hopefully, in time I can get it working reliably. Just think about the runtime I could get with the Miser running at 25% with the 3712


----------

