# The right angle flashlight thread



## bykfixer (Apr 28, 2017)

The right angle flashlight began as a sorta novelty compared to the normal round tube lights even way back when somebody decided to build a light that could be fastened to a shirt pocket or that sort of thing and still aim forward. Hands free was the idea and Bright Star gets the credit from way back in the 1930's with the original TL-122. 
Signaling was also considered and soon military applications and a world war caused this novel approach to become popular with soldiers.
Later filters were added. Then in the late part of WW2 a tailcap that held filters and plastic lenses were introduced. 

By the 1960's not much had changed except the model number. MX-99, then the 991. The battery was the big change as they had more shelf life, more fuel and better cases.

In the 1980's a novel double A platform was tried in the consumer market place. Tacti-cool was born.
Prior to 2010 Pentagon did a tiny one that was as bright as that double A but really small. 

As LED advancement continued there was no need for screw on/slide in filters due to multi colored LED's and user interfaces that allow rapid changes of output and tint in these military marvels. And by 2016 they were getting really, really bright. 




A sample of the changes:
The TL-122B, an early tacti-cool light, Pentagons tiny marvel and a modern First Light. 
Note the First Light comes with the MOLLE clip standard but they also have a proprietary TSR clamp to the belt holster that allows this light to slide easily in an out.

So lets see those right angles. Fultons, Eveready, Streamlight, USLite, or any others you want to show off.


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## jaya_man (Apr 28, 2017)

These are the only lights I have... Manufacturer's call them multi-purpose lights...

Olight H1R Nova in NW and Armytek Tiara A1 in CW


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## bykfixer (May 5, 2017)

^^ Very cool java man, and belated welcome to the site.

Just acquired an early BrightStar right angle light. 








Unsure if it's a TL-122 pre- letter A or a non military version of the TL-122A, but when it arrives I'll know.
Either way it was $10!!! Can't beat that.


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## LiftdT4R (May 5, 2017)

Very cool light of a bygone era! Were these mostly military issued? That's typically the only time I usually see these is from the armed services. Also, if they are do you know if there were any big government contractors that made these lights?


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## irongate (May 5, 2017)

Have 3 of those right angle ones
Green-Fulton MX-991\U
Black-TL-122
Green-G.T. Price U.S. MX-991\U

All work and cleaned up. All from flee markets around here. Fun to get those old lights working again.


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## bykfixer (May 5, 2017)

LiftdT4R said:


> Very cool light of a bygone era! Were these mostly military issued? That's typically the only time I usually see these is from the armed services. Also, if they are do you know if there were any big government contractors that made these lights?



The TL-122 and MX99 to 991 were military spec'd lights. But there are a slew boy scout logo'd ones going back to the early days and civilians versions. All were pretty similar except for the markings deeming them military spec'd

Fulton got the lions share of the contracts after a while and still make the MX991 (in angle and straight tube) for uncle Sam. But in the beginning US Lite, BrightStar, GT Price and others shared the load of producing them for WW2. Particularly the TL122-A. The B, C and D were plastic bodied where the A was metal. Fulton was fully in the lead by the D model as they were a leading plastics manufacturing company after acquiring the parent company of Kwik-Lite (whose name escapes me at the moment).

Surprisingly the big guy on the block back then, Eveready did not make very many. It was a popular light in general but sales of the Eveready version were slow so they stopped making them early on.

BrightStar is credited with the first version of the TL122, which looked just like the one featured. I have a reproduction of it by What Price Glory that is supposedly accurate in nearly every detail. It was made in of all places... Saudi Arabia by a company who specializes in accurate reproduction military gear of past wars for re-enacters.


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## irongate (May 5, 2017)

Thank You for that information.:twothumbs


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## novice (May 5, 2017)

I have long since lost track of the Boy-Scout-logo'd right-angle flashlight from my Boy Scout days, but I'm sure we must have got it at J.C. Penney, which was the official place for B.S.A. gear back then. I currently have the 1xAA Fenix MC10 and MC11 anglelights. I use my MC10 for power stoppages. I'm tempted to have someone make it brighter and warmer, but I still like it (them).


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## Lynx_Arc (May 5, 2017)

I have several right angle flashlights. I have a Rayovac 2AA black/yellow incan I modded with an LED Mag dropin that has a yellow tint enough that it looks more like an incan than my LED lights. I inherited a 2D Rayovac swivel light and put a PR base dropin I harvested from a 1D LED light in it. I've also bought several dollar store 2AA incan right angle lights and swapped in dropins after modding them to fit. I've bought a 2AAA Black and Decker LED light that has a 0.5w reflectored LED and 2 5mm LEDs of red and blue or green I swapped the non red LED for a white one. I also was given an Energizer Hard Case Professional LED light with a two level reflectored LED and 2x5mm Red + 1x5mm Green. I swapped out the Green for a white 5mm LED in it. I liked the right angle format but all of mine swivel so they are both straight shooters and right angle because of this. I find however I rarely use my right angle lights now mainly because they are 2-3 generations back in LEDs (luxeons) or 1st generation cree era and the newer lights I have are 2-3 times more efficient so at about 2 times the output they run about 2 times as long. 
Also the tints of most of these lights are a lot less optimal.. 

I remember growing up and wanting a right angle 2D army green or grey signaling incan light that I could clip on my belt or a coat pocket or tail stand. One other right angle light I have is a 3AA Black and Decker magnetic clamp light.


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## night.hoodie (May 6, 2017)

I am not sure I fully understand the criteria for "right angle flashlight." Does this Maratac count? How about this Zebralight?


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## Lynx_Arc (May 6, 2017)

night.hoodie said:


> I am not sure I fully understand the criteria for "right angle flashlight." Does this Maratac count? How about this Zebralight?



Yup.... both right angle lights. They don't have to be adjustable in fact there are headlamps that can be removed and used also as right angled lights.


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## bykfixer (May 11, 2017)

This one has me scratching my head.
What year was it?




Battleship gray. Navy?
The Bright Star Navy light was black.

BrightStar started the plastic version of TL-122's but those were B, C and D models. This plastic one is shaped like the A model, yet has a plastic lens. 

It has a 1955 type MX-99 type of tail cap. 



Nail hook was seen on 1955 and later civilian lights but...




Brass innerds and a copper reflector of the oldy models with chrome from the 60's. 




Steel alloy conductor strip from the 50's....




Yet "Trademark Registered" from the early days they made flashlights.
(Edit: that was their 'new logo' circa late 1940's)

Non switch guard so it's seemingly pre MX-991. The 99 became the 991 when the switch guard was added. 

Minus some of the odd cues I'd put this one as a 1960's civilian light, perhaps a Navy edition. If anybody knows I'd certainly be pleased to correct any errors in the above comment.


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## magellan (May 18, 2017)

jaya_man said:


> These are the only lights I have... Manufacturer's call them multi-purpose lights...
> 
> 
> Olight H1R Nova in NW and Armytek Tiara A1 in CW



Nice looking lights. I'm for a copper version!


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## Weld Inspector (May 31, 2017)

Just picked up maratac's new AAA right angle in copper


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## Tone90 (Jun 7, 2017)

Thanks


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## bykfixer (Jun 7, 2017)

Tone90 said:


> Here are two Right angle torches, an RAF 5a/9105033 and an Italian TL-122-C. Not sure of the age of the Pagani.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The one on the left looks like a 122B. That would put it a year or so older than the C. Both types were WW2 issue lights here in the US.


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## Tone90 (Jun 7, 2017)

Cheers A


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Jun 7, 2017)

I just received my Manker E02:
http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/...ghts/5FBD195E-C40E-4253-B36D-061323BA5114.jpg
And was so excited. The UI is a little different, but I like it. After using it a half dozen times, I removed the clip & was disappointed at how much of the anodizing was scared(this is a great looking light and the anodizing looks great-the lettering of the "Manker E02" is actually engraved.). As I was shooting the photos, the light rolled off the chair 18 inches to the floor. For 90% of my lights, no big deal. For the E02, flickering, very dim and then dead. Tested to see if new battery, tail cap bypass, all the usual testing and it is dead. I will start the return process, but I had already ordered a second one I liked this one so much. The Nichia has great color, nice beam profile, tail magnet strong & useful. I really think this is an anomaly because all my other Manker lights have been quite durable. Matter of fact I have never had to return a Manker light or even any of the non-branded lights with Manker components. I am making the prediction that if their customer service is like what I have seen in their products(innovation, quality), I will have a new light very soon or a repaired light in a reasonable time. I will come back & update when I know this lights future and my experience when I get E02 #2.
Here is a shot of one of three areas scarred by taking the clip off(I had it attached at the tail-see first photo) the area below where the clip attached just above the tail cap has lost anodizing by clip removal. 
http://i958.photobucket.com/albums/...ghts/5905966A-BD0D-48E0-9C2F-47BB09385725.jpg

This light will work with multiple headbands I have but the magnet makes it so easy to use with the Four Sevens headband, that will be the one I use most....


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## Crazyeddiethefirst (Jun 10, 2017)

Just a quick follow up-Manker has shown exactly what I expected, excellent customer service. I emailed to explain the problem-an automated response told me that my concern had been received and a personal follow up was pending. Soon thereafter, there was a request for one additional troubleshooting check and then I was informed a new light was being sent and I would have a tracking number within 24 hours. Although I was already impressed by their products, their service is equally impressive. I have reviewed Manker lights, but only ones I purchased myself-my opinion is based solely on my experience and I have never received any products or incentives from the company(I just added that so it was clear I was not receiving any product or remuneration). To me, it is an example of a company that "gets it" when it comes to service.


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## pumps (Oct 7, 2021)

Today I went to an estate sale and as I got close to the house I thought it was an old customer of mine. I have done appliance repair for almost 30 years as a side gig to being a firefighter. I came around the corner and the sale WAS at my old customer Dale's house. He would call me when something was broke. I would fix it and we would talk awhile. We talked more after his wife passed and I didn't hurry to leave. You see Dale was a veteran of WW2 . He was in the Battle of the Bulge and somehow survived the Battle of the Hurtgen Forest. He lived to be a little bit over a 100. I am proud to have known him.
Today when I was at his estate sale I bought a MX991/U made by G.T. Price in olive drab for $3 and it works. I'll probably change it to LED and AA .
Now here's my issue. I tried to screw apart the base , separating the part that holds the batteries in with the part that holds the colored lenses. It will not come apart. Any tips on making these parts come loose? Since this old light belonged to Dale I don't want to damage it.


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## xxo (Oct 7, 2021)

You might try running it under or standing it in warm water to get it loosened. Both parts are plastic so it's not corrosion, probably just got a little over tightened.


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## bykfixer (Oct 7, 2021)

The MX991 was a late Korea/early Vietnam era light. 
You might try liquid wrench/wd 40 type bond breaker. Spay it on the joint and let it set over night. 

When I was a kid my parents were often able to get stuck jar lids loose by gentley tapping around the lid with a steak knife. In this case perhaps a rubber mallet. 

Great score! Great story
All the best. 
God bless Dale!!


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## xxo (Oct 7, 2021)

I have always liked the MX991, I usually run mine on a NiteIze 55 lumen LED and a 21700 or 26650 in 3D printed adapters. I also have a 3D printed diffused and base to use it as a area light lantern.


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## bykfixer (Oct 7, 2021)

I contacted Fulton and bought new gaskets and filters for an MX991 I restored along with an LED drop in and 2 d cell to aa adapters.


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## pumps (Oct 7, 2021)

Well hot water didn't do it but 30 minutes with a good sized spritz of WD-40 on the threads did break it loose. My grip is not as strong as it used to be. 2 red lenses, one blue , one sort of frosted white , one a diffused clear. I've ordered an LED for one I already have before but it's been a while any suggestions?
New gaskets couldn't hurt. Mine is a G.T. Price.....would the Fulton gaskets still work? Amazing how much lighter it feels with AAs instead of D batteries.


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## xxo (Oct 7, 2021)

The 55 lumen Niteize LED works pretty well in the MX991, it's a floody light, so higher lumen drop-ins don't look all that much brighter. The ~2-9 Volt operating range of the NiteIze drop-in makes it easy to run on different cells – with adapters I can run the MX991 on 11 types of cells, including 9 Volt batteries.

Originally these came with 3 red filters, but they replaced one of the red filters with a blue one beginning in 1985. The white one is the black out filter used for blacked out vehicle convoys for signaling at short distances. The clear filter is a diffuser.

I only have Fultons, so I'm not sure if the gaskets are the same on the GT Price, but I'm guessing that they are.


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## bykfixer (Oct 8, 2021)

Mine are both Fulton as well. MX991/U and MX991\U. I asked Fulton what's the difference and got back "got me"…

I'd guess that the gasket at the bottom where one inserts batteries would be similar enough to work. Up top though may differ some such as OD.


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## Booga (Oct 10, 2021)

Those green 1940s-80s ones bring back memories. Almost every camping and army surplus shop used to have them. Although I suspect some of them weren't genuine and were unofficial copies, there was always a fair amount of civilan acessories that just happened to be green/camoflage in those sort of places, multi-tools, mess tins, compasses etc.


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## xxo (Oct 10, 2021)

Booga said:


> Those green 1940s-80s ones bring back memories. Almost every camping and army surplus shop used to have them. Although I suspect some of them weren't genuine and were unofficial copies, there was always a fair amount of civilan acessories that just happened to be green/camoflage in those sort of places, multi-tools, mess tins, compasses etc.


Fulton is still making them in the USA (Ohio), LinPac used to make the British equivalent in UK (Birmingham, I think), but they don't seem to be making them anymore.


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## pumps (Oct 22, 2021)

Yesterday I was an estate sale and they had these lights. 2 Fulton MX-991/U lights and a Fulton MX994/U 3 D cell straight light. $10 all three. I am sooo weak!

The 994 switch is shot I think as it's sort of going sideways but it DOES work. Is it possible to repair these switches? Also the springs in the base feel pretty rough/coarse. I sprayed them down with electrical contact clenaer. Swapped in an LED to test and the switches are intermittent UNLESS I put the original incan bulb in?


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## xxo (Oct 22, 2021)

Nice hall! The lack of switch guards indicates that the MX991's were made some time in 1984 or earlier.

The swiches are riveted so they are not easy to disassemble. I sprayed one of mne that was starting to flicker with tri-flo to clean it out while working the switch. I find that is best to store these with the switch on (no batteries) or in the signal/momentary position (with batteries).


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## pumps (Oct 22, 2021)

xxo said:


> I sprayed one of mne that was starting to flicker with tri-flo to clean it out while working the switch.


What's tri-flo?


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## xxo (Oct 22, 2021)

I left off the W, it Tri-Flow -






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Tri-Flow Lubricants, Greases & Degreasers are the preferred choice of biking enthusiasts everywhere. And our new website was designed specifically for you - so you could easily find the product you need to keep you going.




www.triflowlubricants.com


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## bykfixer (Oct 26, 2021)

Modern LED military lights






- Left is the 40 lumen Pentagon Molle with filters in the base. Nice little AA light with a basic on/off. No electronics allow this one to be pretty reliable and store a good long time without sucking the batteries dry. Throwey beam means it appears pretty bright for only 40 lumens.
- Right is the 55 lumen 2AA Streamlight Sidewinder Rescue. It has a blue or green LED, and infra-red to go along with the cool white LED. Two clicks cause the white, green, or blue LED to flash. The infra-red is available as a marker for night vision gear. Electronic switch and no lock out feature means it should be stored without batteries. A thrower beam causes it to appear a lot brighter than the numbers appear. Starts on low with hold the button to raise or lower brightness. A brail + on the side makes replacing batteries in low light easier.


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## pumps (Oct 28, 2021)

Where is the best place you can get these lights?


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