# Confirmation!! NewWish Lasers ARE Pot Moddable!!!!



## Sputnik

Hello all, new here. I have been looking on the forums for a bit. I got my NewWish greenie today that I got off the bay for $36.00 shipped.

I though I would just confirm they ARE pot moddable. 

The pot is not visible from the battery end opening so I did not know if it had one at all. So I cut a section the size of the board off the top, and sure enough there it was, the freindly pot. 

It is situated at about 3mm from the edge of the switch hole, so now you know you can just drill it.














Power measurement using green LED before mod was measured at about 3.5mW. After the mod, it jumped to an amazing 42mW. However, I do not know exactly how accurate this is. It is also perfectly stable, no low output starts. 

I can now see the beam pretty clearly in a room lit with a 60 watt incandescent.

Just though you all would like to know you can get a roughly 40mW greenie for less than $40, you may even be able to squeeze more out of one, mine will go no higher.

Have fun, and be safe.


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## dr_lava

current draw? and.. let us know as it dims day to day, week to week (if it does for you)


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## cbfull

That's a very handsome laser. If you had known exactly where the pot was located, you could have just drilled a small hole right above it.

I did that with one of mine that I took apart and found the pot, only I destroyed the pot completely when the drill broke through the casing (I have a drill press now, which is what I needed in the first place). I had to buy a new pot from digikey and very carefully solder that tiny thing in place. I was quite pleased to find that it worked, and that laser is still my brightest one.

Good work!


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## Frankdux

Thre has to be a way to open this unit with out cutting or drilling.. has anyone tried to open theirs. its damn hard, but it has to open. 

let me know if you can crack it open

thanks


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## archangel080

Im a noob at laser modifying and stuff, but is that pot mod within the supported range of the diode? Is it slowly killing the pointer? Because if everything is cool and you can get more than 40mW by simply turning the pot, Im doing it right away! oh also, I would like to know the use cycle of that thing... my greenie is precious to me


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## tobjectpascal

That's cool, any chance of posting a picture of the output of the laser? or output of a second laser if you have one, to compare the brightness diff?

If i buy one, I don't think drilling would be a good idea, is there anyway to get in to this laser by cutting around it like the leadlight? and then pulling the modual out?


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## archangel080

Dude... Ive just made a huge hole... actually, for other people that want to only have a single hole, just make the hole as close to the button as possible without touching it and youll be right above the pot. btw, how the hell did you get 42mw? Ive maxed it and its maximum 10mw...


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## Frankdux

well I made the perfect size hole and incresed significantly the beam.,. awsome.. well i like to mess around alot and played for hours, and snapped the POT right off the ciruit board. well I can still use it by shorting the POT leads on the board. no biggie.. The big **** off is that after I did all that and messed it up, I found out how to take out the laser modual its self.. lol. LOL , thats all I can say. you will end of scratching the head of the unit but it shimmies out. its f-ing tough to get out and back in, im going to use a diff casing unit to put it back in...


just thought I would let you all know my findings

Thanks
Frankdux


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## Athoul

archangel080 said:


> Dude... Ive just made a huge hole... actually, for other people that want to only have a single hole, just make the hole as close to the button as possible without touching it and youll be right above the pot. btw, how the hell did you get 42mw? Ive maxed it and its maximum 10mw...



Keep in mind he used the LED method which is not exactly accurate, unless you calibrate it with a known output laser. However he did mention this also so no fault on his part either, but I thought I would post it again incase you missed it.


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## archangel080

Actually, Im correcting what I said... what I have is probably less than 10mw... since its my first greenie, I have no idea what a 5mw or 10mw looks like... :thinking: 
Can anyone walk me through how to get more out of it? All I did right now is make the pot output the max laser intensity.
Please help, I would be very greatful.


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## Frankdux

some more quick updates on this laser unit... wow I got the entire unit dismanteled. I took the modual apart into 4 pecies. PARDON MY IGNORANCE I DONT KNOW ALL THE TERMINOLOGY.... The cap, pcb with wires running into a green crystal, middle barrell with clear focusing lense, and the out housing win small appature for the cap to screw onto..


I removed the POT and solder 2 points to gether to get the max output, I beleive, correct me if I did that wrong. If I take the focusing lese off, I get a very large beam at first the actual beam flowing out of the unit was visible in the light, now its about 4x brigther than factory setting.. still good, If you put the focusing lens on half way if makes a tiny diff, nothing really worth mentioning. NOW many QUESTION is, what if I put 2 C batteries or a 9v batter on my laser what would the outcome be ??? would it kill my laser ? or would it be safe ??? would it be brighter or just last longer ??? anyone know these answers ???


Thanks 
Frankdux:touche:


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## archangel080

I dont know much, but I read on greenlasers.co.uk that boosting the voltage isnt the best way to get the best output, not taking into account the fact that the chances of frying the diode are super high (if you dont know what youre doing).


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## tobjectpascal

http://www.plans-kits.com/lasers.html

Is the laser that they're showing how to mod, is it this one above? the newwish range?


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## pixar

The laser diode needs a certain voltage to work properly, with some degree of regulated current. Most laser diodes seem to need around 3-3.2v - putting 9v anywhere near it will blow it immediately. Also, the laser diode should have regulated volts/current across it - you can over drive the diode to some degree but even placing 9 volts to the regulator will probably kill that in a short time.

I wonder if you are taking precautions whilst doing this - as an exposed diode / crystal assembly will almost certainly allow high power invisible IR to leak out, which may also allow more IR to emit once the pen is re-assembled. I would be more worried about lower power escaping IR than slightly higher power visible light.


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## Frankdux

tobjectpascal, It looks like the one in the first picture, on that site.

AN now Im not taking to many precuations, im winging it. lol


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## cbfull

pixar said:


> The laser diode needs a certain voltage to work properly, with some degree of regulated current. Most laser diodes seem to need around 3-3.2v - putting 9v anywhere near it will blow it immediately. Also, the laser diode should have regulated volts/current across it - you can over drive the diode to some degree but even placing 9 volts to the regulator will probably kill that in a short time.


You know, that's something I have wondered about when powering the diodes with an external power source. I think that the driver circuitry is designed around a certain input voltage (3V for the typical green pointer), which really has little to do with the diodes' voltage requirement. I suppose I could test one with the power supply starting at 0.0V and a 400mA limit. That would tell me the true operating voltages of the diode, but I'm not sure that even matters (sorry I'm rambling).

Luckily, I have always been able to tightly control both the voltage and max current (current limiting) with an HP power supply that someone let me borrow on "long term loan". I had no idea how imortant it would be to have power controls when it comes to testing laser diodes.You set the voltage with one dial, and then set the max current on the other. This way, if I am not sure how much current a device will hog by itself, I can just start at 0.0 max current and slowly dial it up. It works so beautifully for powering diodes that I have even been considering building my own power supply based on a couple L200 regulators (you need two if you want + and -). If anyone has a chance and is interested, take a look at the designers guide for it:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/A/N/2/5/AN255.shtml
It's almost like that regulator was made just for powering/testing diodes.

If I had been thinking about what I was doing and set a max current on it when I first tried shorting the pot to the case in one of my leadlights, I wouldn't have blown my second diode.

All of my leadlights (4) draw 320mA. I am not planning on re-engineering the circuitry for more power, in fact I think I am going to adjust all the pots so that they will output 5mW or less. This will make them all safe and legal. (right?)

Hope I didn't stray away from the topic by including that, it just seemed like a good place.


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## Sputnik

Glad too see some of you found the info usefull.

Current draw stabilizes at 270mA after 30 sec. warmup. Output has not decreased after several ours of ON time. This is on Energizer alkaline AAA's


I am making large 4000mAh Lithium Polymer pack to power it. The cells are 3.7 volts and I have tested the output at 54mW at this voltage which seems to be safe with no signs of potential destruction after about an hour of nearly contiuous output at this voltage.

Again these results were using the LED method. Accuracy is unknown.

Also, my switch is going bad, cant handle almost 300mA, probably rated for 50-100.

I have a butt load of first surface mirrors that bounced is all around the house off of. I will get some pics of this and post em. Looks really cool.


BTW, Arkangel, your laser may not be able to get any brighter. The pumped crystals probably vary greatly in purity, much like silicon CPU dies. Some may be able to get a higher output, some may not. All the manufacturer cares is that they get less than 5mW out of it


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## archangel080

Sputnik, did you simply turn the pot to get that much of an output? 

And does anyone know if there's other mods possible, like shorting some of the circuit's resistors to give more juice to the diode?


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## Sputnik

Yes, just a turn of the pot. 


Without knowing the specs of the diode it would be hard to "short" anything without a great potential for disaster.

I am going to reverse engineer the drive electronics in the next few days to see what we can do.

Im going to hook it up to a scope tomorrow to see what frequency/pulse width the diode is being driven and see if we can change this.


Does anyone know what wavelength the diode is?


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## IsaacHayes

Wow, nice price even if you don't mod it.


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## badinstincts

Sputnik, could you give us some links to where we can find this laser. I searched ebay and just could not find it, even yahoo. Please post some links, thx...


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## archangel080

badinstinct....... more than 50% of ebay lasers are newwish... either silver or black.

Ive finally been able to open the damn thing..... completly scraped the casing...
What do I do now, Sputnik? I hope after you reverse engineer it you find out it's super easy  

Here's what I see:


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## Sputnik

archangel, What are the markings on the 8pin IC on the bottom of the board?

Yes, most I see on eBay are NewWish. I got mine from a seller named lakesen.

You may want to buy from him if you want a moddable on as im sure they vary greatly, regardless of brand, his are likely to be of the same batch.


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## archangel080

Hummm.... damn those are small markings... but after close observation with a 10x mag. glass, it's something:
6358
0(maybe O? Q? probably 0 tho.) JB1

What can that tell you?


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## Sputnik

Nothing really. 

How did you take yours apart?


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## archangel080

How I took it apart? 
A massacre... I have no idea how they asssembled it... probably heated the tube, inserted the tip and let it cool down and squeeze it or something... crazy.
Anyways, my beautiful silver body has grip marks everywhere now... but after multiple attempts, they only way I could remove the tip was to make deep plier marks all around the tube where the it was holding the tip, so that the deformation would make the tube a little bit larger and let the tip out......... 
If anyone else has a better way, Id love to hear it........ for the next one I will get.


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## badinstincts

Thx sputnik, I just ordered 3. 1 will remain stock, 1 will be pot modded, 1 will be pot and focus moded. Once I get the best settings and I know that i'm not shortening its life span by too much, I will probably mod all 3 to max specs (including any mods you guys come up with).

Just a few questions. Do these lasers have a use cycle? Are you limited to how long you can keep it on, then you have to let it cool for a certain amount of time, etc... Also how long do you think its life is in hours, stock, and pot modded, approx???


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## archangel080

How do you focus mod?


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## badinstincts

dont you take it apart and adjust the distance between the lens and the diode...
When you do the pot mod it probably wont be focused well (focusing it at 5mw wouldn't be too important, but at 40+ it very well may be), therefore its a good idea to focus it so that you get a nice small dot 1-2 miles away (if you got a telescope)...


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## archangel080

Can anyone here explain me what an APC module is? Ive heard on greenlasers that someone desoldered the "black wire" from it and somehow that gives it more power. true?


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## Frankdux

WHATEVER YOU DO .... DONT FOCUS MOD THIS UNIT, IT F's IT UP LAREGE. I THAT WAS ONE OF THE THINGS I TRIED AND NOW ITS NOT THE SAME..



THANKS


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## badinstincts

Frankdux said:
 

> IT F's IT UP LAREGE.


Translation please....

Well, maybe you just did it wrong or carelessly, I've played around with the cheap red laser pointers a lot, I guess I would have some experience doing it. Yea I know its not simple, the lens may become loose or tilt etc, but if you're careful and smart it can be done the right way...


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## badinstincts

Frankdux said:


> NOW many QUESTION is, what if I put 2 C batteries or a 9v batter on my laser what would the outcome be ???


 
I can safely assume that you ruined the diode, that is why you wouldn't be able to focus it no matter how hard you tried. Same thing happens with the red laser pointers, it works fine on 4 (instead of the stock 3) of those round batts for a few hours of use and then the dot gets bigger and dimmer until it craps out...


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## Frankdux

no i didnt ruin the diode, my pointer works its just that i have to mess with it to get the lens to stay still now. and most of the time the slightest jaring make its flip. and even when it is still the beam has not been as bright & clean as it was before I popped the lense.. I have also played with the distance using the threads and not screwing all the way down. I am going to try and short res 102, and cap 106 tomorrow. I dont care if I kill my laser. I can get a new one


Thanks


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## Frankdux

I wanted to find out about the batteries to see if I can get it to last longer. eventualy use 3v lith batteries (cr2302, or similar)


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## badinstincts

oh, it might have been glued in slightly or there might have been a tiny spring. maybe you missed something. if you dont care about damaging it, heck try to find us another mod, hehehe... maybe we can jump up the juice to 100mw or even 200mw


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## Frankdux

it looks like it was glued around the edges, i will try some stuff out and see what I can come up with in the next day or so. cools


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## badinstincts

it might be difficult to glue it back in straight, you might want to dip the metal casing for the lens in acetone for a few hours to get rid of the existing glue, that way the lens will go back flush with the case (which is hopefully perfectly grooved for the lens... hope you got what i was trying to say here, i'm sure with pictures it would be easier to explain, but thats too much work...


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## pixar

It's a pity more higher power laser pens do not have a focus ability - or focus set for a small dot at a great distance. Having a thin beam with more power at a given distance is what it's all about


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## archangel080

Alright... I dont think changing the focus is at my modification skill level... How is the reverse engineering coming up, Sputnik? Found any sweet sweet ways to burn through a wall?


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## Sputnik

Ark, APC stands for Automatic Power Control. It is a Photo Diode that measures the output and automatically adjusts it for constant, no fluctuation output.


I have now confirmed that disableing the APC does indeed increase the output dramatically. 

Just cut both wires off, you will no longer need either. Unless you intend on using APC at some point.

The output after APC disable is 54mW @ 397mA. Again using LED method, so theres error here. 

I have not operated it for more than 15 sec. with no APC yet.


BTW, I removed my module by using a mini pipe cutter about 3/8 in. back from where the tip goes on. The module slid out very neatly and this allows me to slide it back into the housing to use it as a pointer. A piece of tape holds it nicely in place.


I also disassembled the module itself. There is a beam splitter that directs output to the PD. I will remove the splitter soon to see what effect it has. It is green in color so I will assume it is also used as an IR filter. Removing it will let more IR through. It should also increase the output slightly as part of the output is being split and directed to the PD.

More to come...........


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## badinstincts

woohoo, a 5mw laser turned into a 54mw laser, cant wait till he gets rid of the beam splitter, and tries running it for a minute or longer... =)


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## pixar

Sputnik said:


> BTW, I removed my module by using a mini pipe cutter about 3/8 in. back from where the tip goes on. The module slid out very neatly and this allows me to slide it back into the housing to use it as a pointer. A piece of tape holds it nicely in place.



Any chance of a pic?


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## archangel080

1. Is there a way to cut only 1 of the two wires to disable the APC? Which? And would it be possible to add a switch to turn the APC on and off? (That way we would get the option of weak and no cycle or powerful and short duty cycle.)

2. You didnt try the way I removed the module? (Leaving deep teeth grip marks around the tube that holds the module, that way, the module slides out easily and can be put back no problem.)

3. Sorry for my multiple beginner's questions but I find the members of this forum rather knowledgeable and good teachers. What does a splitter do? and by removing it, thus removing the IR filther at the same time, would the IR light come out as a focused beam or spread out? and are eyes in danger of any harm when expose to those kind of intensity levels?

EDIT: I've desoldered the black wire. But because of a lack of measurement device, I have no idea if it did anything... The only difference I have noticed now is that I have to push the button extra hard to get maximum output. Again, because of my inexperienced eye, I try to measure by seing how much of the beam I can see in the dark... and the visibility is still minimal... 
Sputnik, at what voltage are you getting your 50+mW reading? Can you burn through a garbage bag?


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## badinstincts

4. Would I go blind if I point the 54mw laser in my eyes?


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## blindsided

it doesn't matter how strong it is, if it goes into your eye you can cause serious damage. Usually though, the eyes natural instinct blinks and closes itself so there probably won't be too much damage. I wouldn't do that.


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## badinstincts

well, yea i just got my 3 lasers from the same guy you got it from, but I had to pay almost $50 each. Anyways, i pointed it between my nose and your eyes start hurting already, i dont think i'll try it. heh, and i'm a guy who would do it anyways just to see what happens. well i'm about to take the drill to the laser and open up the pot, hehehe. i'm going to try on the worst one, the one with bad divergence just to see...


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## pixar

10mw has been quoted as causing eye damage - 10mw+ is supposed to cause eye damage even before you blink - or so they say. Why point it at your eyes, even a 5mw? Who can tell if the IR radiation is properly stopped let alone the visible radiation - cheaper units or those dropped/knocked in shipping can have a loose filter - you really want all that going into your eyes - just to see, but not for long !


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## badinstincts

*Stupidity removed by Kiessling.*
*Do that again and be gone from CPF for at elast for a while.*
**


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## badinstincts

does shorting the pot work better than just finding the max spot. i would guess that shorting it would be better since the pot would still have some resistance...

also i totally ruined my pot (stripped the screw marks off) i didn't know how to exactly do the mod, can you guys please explain it to me. I've read that if you turn the pot more than 270deg its ruined... also which way do i turn it on this laser? I got the same one as sputnik...


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## Athoul

Counter-clockwise should lower the resistance, making the laser brighter.


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## badinstincts

aha, i started turning it clockwise, like 10 turns, i thought it unscrews or something, thats how it kinda worked on my ccd camera with the pot. i did find a bright spot but it wasn't all that great, the laser was fairly bright to begin with and got dimmer once i started turning the pot. then at 1 spot it would be bright, i'm not sure if its the same as it was when i didn't turn the pot yet, or any brighter but once I get that spot i cant even move it a little clockwise or counter to get it any brighter. I then started turning it counter clockwise and got that same spot again... so now, this laser produces a bigger dot at the same distance as the other lasers that have a nice small powerful dot... so all that i accomplied is making it throw just as far as the unmodified 5mw lasers with a bigger dot... i can see it from about 2000-3000ft (but its already flashlight size at those distances) (500ft its about 1-2ft big and as bright as the small dot the others produce, 1000ft i'd say 3-5ft big still just as bright or brighter than the small dot the others produce, 2000-3000ft its about the size of a large car, i couldn't really see the other lasers dot at that distance but i kinda could, for this one its noticable but dim) (it was pretty much like this unmodified though, i would probably have to adjust the lens, and perhaps I'd see better performance from there)...


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## archangel080

wow wow... you werent suppose to turn the pot more than 1 revolution... you were to turn the laser on, look at the brightness of the dot, turn the pot, see the brightness vary and then adjust the pot to get the brightest dot you can.


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## badinstincts

Sputnik said:


> BTW, I removed my module by using a mini pipe cutter about 3/8 in. back from where the tip goes on. The module slid out very neatly and this allows me to slide it back into the housing to use it as a pointer. A piece of tape holds it nicely in place.


 
what exactly do you mean 3/8" back from where the tip goes on. you mean the head of the laser? you measured 3/8" from the line it makes with the part of the tube that has the power button? so you cut the tube with the power button 3/8" back from the line that that tube makes with the head...

if so i'm gonna go get a pipe cutter and do so too, sounds like it would be a whole lot easier... i'm pulling and pulling to no avail...


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## badinstincts

archangel080 said:


> wow wow... you werent suppose to turn the pot more than 1 revolution... you were to turn the laser on, look at the brightness of the dot, turn the pot, see the brightness vary and then adjust the pot to get the brightest dot you can.


 
yea thats what i did, it wasn't working so i kept turning and turning... until i got the lucky spot that i got now where its brighter. theres only 2 levels, bright or dim, dim sucks bad, bright is only a little teeny bit better than an unmodified, i actually think bright is the same as it was unmodified.


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## Athoul

I could be wrong, but I have a feeling you broke the pot by turning it to many times. You could just bypass the pot enirely if you just want a brighter dot, but you might want to use a resistor in case you kill the diode.


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## Frankdux

sorry I ahvent updated about the mods on this unit yet.. I have been away on a somewhat emergency. When Im back home I will finish my mods and give updates....


Thanks


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## Sputnik

OK, To answer some questions first. 

1.The APC can be disabled by cutting EITHER WIRE, it does not matter

2. You could add a switch to APC if you wanna.

3. I cut mine 3/8 from the groove where the tip goes on. The tip actually holds the module, not the case, so there is clearence between the module and case. Cutting the case just where the tip ends inside allows the module (with tip) to be slid out/in.

4. A splitter is a piece of glass that is set at what is known as Brewsters Angle. At this angle, light is reflected off even if the glass is optically transparent. Im sure youve noticed this effect at some time in your life.

5 The IR leaking by removing the filter will be mostly focused with some stray non-focused radiation leaking out of the slot where the rod sits, in this laser anyway.


Now for more mods.

I completely disassembled the entire module. I totally removed the photo diode for the APC and its glass mount. I also removed the splitter/filter.

The splitter/filter actually skews the beam a bit to align it with the colimating optics. SO, after removal of splitter the beam was no longer directed strait out the optics. Rather, I got just a snip of the edge of the beam.

Heres the tricky part.

In order to re-align the rod with the optics, the rod mount(with rod) had to be removed and aligned PERFECTLY with the optics. The mount was glued in place with a very easily removed adhesive. I just slid a razor under the mount and it came right off. I re-aligned with very careful measurement using a digital caliper and a scribe to mark the brass.

Another tricky part.

As the pump diode does not emit from exact center, it also had to be aligned. I just loosened the retaining screw from the board end and turned it until it was dead center of the rod. However this must be done while the laser is ON. Care must be taken. I also added some thermal grease around the diode to help with heat dissipation.

OK, now for the cool part. The rod emits a very thin very intense beam even with no optics, however with a large divergence, so I decided to try some burning cutting experiments with no optics. The direct beam is VERY VERY THIN. It will cut strait through a thick industrial garbage bag VERY VERY FAST. However the only way you know it burnt through is to see the beam out the back side as the hole it makes is too small to see. Thats how small the beam is at about 1/2 from the rod. Although it is about 5 inches at 10 feet.

So now the optics, rod and diode are as perfectly aligned as I can get with the tools I have.

The beam/spot isnt noticeably brighter with the eye but measurement now shows 61mW using green LED and burns thin plack plastic a wee bit faster.

I took the black foam out of the case the laser came in and was able to burn my entire name into it in just over a minute. Albeit this is very light foam, easier to burn than a garbage bag.

Next mod is to try powering the diode directly with a CV/CC PSU, completely bypassing the original driver. Then I plan on pumping the rod with a 10Watt diode that I have coming. The rod will probably over heat and explode or fracture with a full 10 watts of IR so some power mangement will be in order.

Next time..........Adventures in Destroying Expensive Lasers....ON CPF


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## archangel080

eum... alright... so it seems like Im done modding... the rest sounds way too complex and difficult. Sputnik, since clearly your knowledge of lasers is very complete, why not design and build yourself one instead of buying cheap ones and boosting it to breaking point?


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## badinstincts

i agree with archangel080. with a 10w ir diode you could probably get 5w of green laser. why would you bother with a 5mw greenie and trying to boost it 1000x... A 5w green would give you a visible beam in daylight...


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## Athoul

The Nd:YVO4 crystal will probably not handle 1Watt of pump energy, let alone 10. They are simply to thin in 5mW pointers. You might want to order a crystal for this purpose if you are thinking of building your own.


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## badinstincts

Here is a tip, DO NOT DO THE STAGE 2 mod for these NewWish lasers, expecially the one Sputnik pictured. The diode is already aligned as best it can, if you unscrew it YOU WILL NOT be able to get the same beam ever, unless you have special tools or just get really really lucky.

The REASON is that the diode is smaller than it should be, it has space when inside the thingy and if you remove it it will be almost impossible to have it centered. I've tried thermal paste to keep it moving smooth, NOTHING HELPS, I've had a good beam however it has some spill, so you know that it will never be as good as it was before. I must have spent 10+ hours trying to realign it and I got it back in the spot once only to remove it again thinking I can get it better, but no way, didn't happen again...
Also i'm thinking that if you mess around it it unaligned it will damage the diode or crystals because when not aligned I would get an extremely bright beam and then it would dim out... So there ya go, I should have just gotten the leadlights to begin with... I also did the pot mod on this one and the beam got dimmer just a little bit than stock, so it didn't seem to work on mine. I had 3 tries and only 1 made a brighter beam, the first laser with bad divergence... I may only try to short the pot to see if that helps with the last unmodified one...


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## badinstincts

umm, shorting the pot against the case didn't do anything except turn the laser off, or whatever. I stuck tiny scissors in and cut the red wire and its much better now. This seems to be the only mod that works on my lasers. I'm guessing we are supposed to disable the APC in the first place without doing the pot mod, the pot doesn't do anything after you cut the wire. I'm guessing its now pulling 320mA and giving around 20-45mw I wouldn't know, but its at least twice as bright. I'm finally happy... Still going to get a couple leadlights... ouch my eyes hurt from looking at the spot on the white paper...


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## badinstincts

well, it doesn't burn black bags, i dont have electrical tape here right now, so I wont know till tonight, I'd guess it would take 30-60seconds to start burning it though... do you guys have a clean dot or are there small specks all around? if you point it at a white paper from 2 feet the specks go out 2-2.5inches from the center...


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## badinstincts

yea, the best thing to do for these lasers is to cut one of the wires, red or black, from there I have not noticed any change when turning the pot it is at 300mA now and wont go higher by turning the pot. I'm thinking of doing the resistor mod now, i may add a second resistor to the one already there...

I can see the beam very clearly at night and so can people who you point the laser towards... I can also see the dot about 1/2 mile further without binoculars or anything.. i'm sure if you used binoculars you can see it wayyyyyy further...


----------



## archangel080

When I point my laser on a wall, there's the main dot, but surrounding it, there is a lot of "noise" and even some shapes around it. Is it a dirty lense or did it get unfocused?


----------



## badinstincts

well, hopefully if you didn't take the crystals out, (by taking the diode out) you can simply stick a q-tip (with some cotton pulled off) into the head and spin it or whatever until you get as little speckle as possible, i had it soooo clean once that all i had was the dot. i gotta find 97% alcohol again, they dont sell it like they used to... you can dip it in the alcohol and then clean it up, should work well.

how do i take the ir filter off, would that improve range/brightness? also i want to do the resistor mod, how do i do it on these? I have spare parts from 1 other board. 1 of my power buttons stopped working too well and i decided to take that laser totally apart, no hope in cleaning up the crystals now or finding the right position for the diode...???? help...


----------



## bassplayer142

I have one of these and I want to pot mod it. How delicate is the pot because I'm thinking I might be able to twist a paperclip around the button and blindly be able to turn it. I just hope it isn't to hard to turn or I don't scratch the electronics. Also, am I reading this right when you say that if you clip the red wire it will do the same as the pot mod or what?


----------



## archangel080

^^^
Turning the pot without removing the module? Impossible. Plus, you need the laser turned on to know where to stop turning the pot. And no, cutting one of the wire isnt equal to the pot mod, it disables the APC which limits the juice. So yeah. Its 2 mods.


----------



## pixar

Hi,

I just bought one of these off Ebay - a 30mw model that came with a <35mw sticker. When I press the button it takes about 0.5 seconds to go from dim to brighter but then stays there. I tried the green led check method but I could not get it to read above 21ua's (absolute max) which seems to suggest it's really a 5mw laser 

To remove the laser module, do you need to remove the metallic button beforehand or just leave it alone - not that it seems to come off.

Thanks.


----------



## PEU

I convinced myself and I bought two of these lasers (1 me, 1 friend) can someone tell me which is the correct way to open them to adjust the pot? I don't really want to cut the body like sputnik did 

I purchased them from the same seller as sputnik

Thanks in advance


Pablo


----------



## abeland1

pixar said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just bought one of these off Ebay - a 30mw model that came with a <35mw sticker. When I press the button it takes about 0.5 seconds to go from dim to brighter but then stays there. I tried the green led check method but I could not get it to read above 21ua's (absolute max) which seems to suggest it's really a 5mw laser
> 
> To remove the laser module, do you need to remove the metallic button beforehand or just leave it alone - not that it seems to come off.
> 
> Thanks.


Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Which is all right with us.


----------



## pixar

abeland1 said:


> Mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur. Which is all right with us.



The latin or translation? - either way I am confused


----------



## PEU

The saying ascribed to Petronius mundus vult decipi, ergo decipiatur means "The world wants to be deceived, so let it be deceived."

 nice quote


Pablo


----------



## pixar

Got someone to cut around the body on a lathe - finally got it apart. Cut the red/black wires and whatever I do with the pot, hardly any ua readings - around 10-12 max. The pot rhs leg to centre sweep ranges between low ohms to approx 4.8K. I see hardly any difference no matter what. Paid for a 30mw unit, looks like I got a crap shoot.


----------



## archangel080

Can anybody tell me how to focus this laser? because my dot at 8-9 meters is almost 5cm in diameter. All I did was the pot mod and cut the APC wires... I hope I didnt touch anything else that could have affected the focus :S


----------



## PEU

The seller of these lasers sent me an email telling that he was out of stock till the end of this week, in the meantime I ask again the question:

how do I safely open this unit without losing focus or damaging it? Thanks!


Pablo


----------



## pixar

Well, still no success getting much out of my laser - 21ua max equating to 7mw max (for a 30mw as-sold laser), but normally giving much less. I wonder if anyone has any more to add on their successes or otherwise?

I cut around the case on a lathe and now have the front of the laser with the module inside it and the pcb glued onto the laser diode - I take it you need to remove the cap (how without damaging it?) to get to the optics + crystals.

I played around though. With 3 volts from a bench supply powering the laser via the bronze body and spring, the diode actually has about 2.2 volts on it. The APC wires are both cut and the pot hardly seems to make any difference in output, but at one place the switch gets very hot with the current flowing through it, with the pot turned the other way the brightness is the same but the switch is cool. So, I can mod the current through the on-button but not affect the output - hows that for a mod 

My pcb looks the same as in the pictures on the first page - but maybe there are other differences between supplies of this laser.


----------



## pixar

The laser is now heading for the great clouds in the sky - it's dead jim. I took the brass module apart and so got to the the real in-nards. The mistake was prodding what looked like setting compound just behind IR filter / splitter assembly - this apparently was the part of the laser that housed the crystal set. I was left with powdered white coloured crystal and a very small square of green crystal. The size of this amazed me - very, very thin and about 1mm square! 2 tiny lenses and a seperator (collimator assembly) were first in line after the laser diode.

£45 total down the drain - but for some reason it was a very poor performer.


----------



## Athoul

White powedered crystal? Was it dropped? hmm, the green thin crystal should be the IR filter, while the ND/ktp should look kinda topaz or pinkish in colour.


----------



## pixar

It was not dropped. There was a green filter (brewster?) plate on the front feeding the feedback APC diode - that came off after I damaged the other stuff (basically contained in about 3 mm's of space surrounded by a bronze circular ring) situated behind the pass-through / brewster window. In this 3mm's was a white-ish crystalline substance and a small green fleck of something - thin and a perfect oblong shape.

Just before this the laser was working fine but low power. It may still have been working but giving out IR of 808nm or thereabouts - too dangerous to keep in this mode. I had unscrewed the laser assembly (one brass section unscrewed from the other) many times and replaced it and it still gave a bright output. It only failed when I probed the wrong place.

This particular laser may not be the best to go for in terms of modding. Some pcb's may be different from others even if the lasers all look the same (Ebay is full of this type of black/silver model at present - some even call it a leadlight but it's not). No difference with APC disabled nor pot twiddling (btw - the wiper and the left side of the pot were shorted on my pcb).


----------



## Athoul

That green glass you are referring to is the IR filter. I'm not sure aht hapepend to create the white particles.. it sounds like it was a hybrid ND/KTP crystal.


----------



## aman06

I have a 10mw one that looks exactly like sputniks', im gonna try the pot mod after drilling, hopefully all goes well. but has any one modded a 10mw newwish? does it go any brighter?


----------



## aman06

I adjusted it and the laser went a little brighter, i cant see no beam tho, and is the brightest spot when your turning the screw then the laser goes out then u you carry on turning and it goes really bright, is that the brightest spot?

thanks!


----------



## rexer

archangel080 said:


> badinstinct....... more than 50% of ebay lasers are newwish... either silver or black.
> 
> Ive finally been able to open the damn thing..... completly scraped the casing...
> What do I do now, Sputnik? I hope after you reverse engineer it you find out it's super easy
> 
> Here's what I see:


 

Hi, im new to all this laser stuff, had loads of fun with my red one and now just bought my first greenie its a newwish <10mw , i have drilled a hole next to the button and turned the pot to the brightest spot but when you first turn it on , for about 0.5 seconds its really bright then goes really dim then gets a little brighter, i take it this is the apc at work, so if i can cut this wire will it stay bright?
in the first pic, the redish wire,is this the wire to cut to disable the apc? 
also now iv turned the pot the green dot sort of looks oval at around 10 metres, do i need to focus it now? i have modded the hole at the end where the beam comes out as the beam was hitting the side of the hole , i reemed it out to about 7mm .
cool forum by the way.
NIck (newb)


----------



## rexer

ok, i just hooked out that red wire from the hole i drilled and snipped it, it didnt appear to make any difference to the brightnes, however when you turn the pot it makes no difference also. it still goes really bright when you first push the button and then goes dim and then a bit brighter, i suspect cutting this wire didnt disable the apc but bypassed the pot. hmmm. can somone confirm my findings for me, this is the 10 mw newwish.
Nik


----------



## pixar

Exactly the same for me - APC red and black wires do come from the photodiode / IR assemble, and desoldering both made no difference at all. The pot from one end to the other made no difference at all - well, a small area where you can get the bright-dimmer reaction or just bright - but no real difference in o/p. For me, one leg of the pot was connected to the swipper arm, the other ranged from low resistance to apporx 4.5K. Although no brightness change occurred, one way the switch gets real hot if held in for several seconds, the other the switch stays cool.

Some seem to be use cct's than others or crap diodes - it's as if they are being made to not be moddable now - or at least many of them. I do not know why bother having an APC and pot if they seem to make no difference either way - unless they kick in at 5mw which many seem to be under to start with, and cannot be made higher.


----------



## rexer

i was a bit hasty there as it does seem to be a little(and i mean a little) bit brighter in the dark i can see the beam more, i still want to know why its really bright for half a second and then dim's off, cos i recon thats around 20mw for half a second, im glad i only paid £11.50 plus post for this and im now in the market for something with some sting in its tail, god these things are addictive lol.(mods i dont mean im gona sting anyone/thing nor am i condoning such behaviour)
im thinking i might get something around 75 mw next, i would like to have a play with a lead light 105 as there is loads of info on it. poping baloons is cool but i just want a beam that can be seen clearly.
Nick


----------



## pixar

I have wasted a total of £75 on two lasers off Ebay that were crapshoots - one was sold as 30mw that was measured (green led) as <2mw and could not be modded (pot+apc) and the other the pot made no difference (CNI <5mw nexus look-alike, which I got the rubber button off by using my finger alone - it was not damaged at this point, but I broke the wires off the diode when trying to get the end off - it pulls off (if you can dissolve the glue) but if you twist it you break the diode as the pcb does not rotate).

I have a CNI nexus look-alike that was sold as <100mw that is probably 60mw+ - but I have not attempted to mod that. I would have been better of buying a 95mw-125mw in the first place. I have a <5mw real leadlight coming my way. Now time to stop wasting money unless a real proven 'moddable' bargain is found.


----------



## RickSCV

I received one of these lasers earlier today from a guy off ebay. I actually chose this specific model based on the posts you guys made here  Im new at this so I've been learning by reading everything. 

The odd part is my driver board inside looks exactly like the pictures that have been posted, except I have no red or black wires coming off diode to the board at all. Second, turning the pot has made no difference.

I did my first pot mod on two sets of red laser pointers laser week and in both instances the beam got brighter, so I felt safe doing the mod to this newish greenie. Im just suprised though the beam didnt get brighter at all when turning the pot. I've gone in circles with it trying to even make it dimmer thinking maybe the pot was already at its max setting to begin with (which would be a shame since I already cut into the casing to get to it lol), and I cant do that either.

I found a place on the net that sells driver board kits that look similar to what comes in the various pointers sold.. I might just scrap this laser for its diode and try another board. I also saw that amazing1.com sells a laser colliminator kit that fits over your existing pointer.. that might be worth looking into since I also read that this newwish laser's optics arent exactly the friendliest to adjust.


----------



## Dj_sTyLz808

WOW!!! are all u guyz for real? my uncle just gave me 3 of these lasers.all i did was disable the apc.u know cutting the redwire and they all jumped in power.not sure how much in mW terms.but in a room lit by a 60w incandecent bulb i can see the beam with no problem.o yea and try some rechargable NiMh bumps up the power too.


----------



## i70CuDa

to Dj_sTyLz808 and those with new lasers: does my laser look similar to yours. I hope i can get a good boost


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## Dj_sTyLz808

yes sir datz the 1 (=


----------



## pixar

We are for real - some can be modded and others can't with normal mods. With the APC totally disabled and the pot slightly tweaked or turned from one end to the other makes no difference at all for some - refer to my past posts, my laser is (was) exactly the same as this cosmetically and once opened, so was the board. The only thing I found was at one extreme of the pot the switch had so much current going though it it got very hot very quickly (something that may drastically shorten the life of your modded lasers due to the switch wearing out before the diode?), and the other extreme is remained cool - but the brightness or led check showed no change.

It seems the board may look similar - but either the components, IC (is it a pic or something?) or the diode are different. Which makes sense if they are clamping down on modding to limit the lasers to low outputs. It may be batch related or supplier (reseller) related. If one or two suppliers off Ebay or from forums can reliably supply moddable lasers, go for those - far too many Ebay lasers are no where near their quoted rating or the worst off the production line - which makes sense for low power pointers and cheap rubbish sold to the masses on Ebay as most reputable suppliers want quality stock.


----------



## RickSCV

pixar said:


> We are for real - some can be modded and others can't with normal mods. With the APC totally disabled and the pot slightly tweaked or turned from one end to the other makes no difference at all for some - refer to my past posts, my laser is (was) exactly the same as this cosmetically and once opened, so was the board. The only thing I found was at one extreme of the pot the switch had so much current going though it it got very hot very quickly (something that may drastically shorten the life of your modded lasers due to the switch wearing out before the diode?), and the other extreme is remained cool - but the brightness or led check showed no change.
> 
> It seems the board may look similar - but either the components, IC (is it a pic or something?) or the diode are different. Which makes sense if they are clamping down on modding to limit the lasers to low outputs. It may be batch related or supplier (reseller) related. If one or two suppliers off Ebay or from forums can reliably supply moddable lasers, go for those - far too many Ebay lasers are no where near their quoted rating or the worst off the production line - which makes sense for low power pointers and cheap rubbish sold to the masses on Ebay as most reputable suppliers want quality stock.


 
Sounds like I got the same one you did. No matter what I tried the brightness never changed. It was driving me nuts trying to find out what I was doing wrong.


----------



## Dj_sTyLz808

wow that sucks.because so far out of my uncles shipment of 28 units.i already disabled the APC on 10 units and they all measured in @ around 20-25 mW's using the LED method.i did the disabled the APC and i did the pot mod to my unit and got just about 40 mW's! damn weird


----------



## kyazh

Noob here, but approximately how many mW do you need to pop a balloon? How about to burn plastic bags or paper?


----------



## pixar

Dj_sTyLz808 said:


> wow that sucks.because so far out of my uncles shipment of 28 units.i already disabled the APC on 10 units and they all measured in @ around 20-25 mW's using the LED method.i did the disabled the APC and i did the pot mod to my unit and got just about 40 mW's! damn weird



You did both of these through the button hole ?


----------



## rexer

kyazh you shouuld start a new thread for this question mate, or do a search its probably been asked before.

pixar you have to drill a small hole next to the button to get to the pot.


----------



## pixar

Someone used a lathe to cut around the body (3/8th's in etc, etc) - so I had access to the whole PCB. Waste of time as it did not seem to be moddable at all.


----------



## Athoul

kyazh said:


> Noob here, but approximately how many mW do you need to pop a balloon? How about to burn plastic bags or paper?



Around 20mW is where you start to be able to pop balloons and make little holes in black trash bags(assuming standard beam diameter and divergence to most pen style lasers). To burn through paper you will need more then 100mW.


----------



## Dj_sTyLz808

no for the 10 units i went from the "spring" side.i stuck a littl screwdriver in it and just snipped the red wire.and for my unit i did that and i drilled a little hole right above the button and messed around with the pot.=)







pixar said:


> You did both of these through the button hole ?


----------



## rexer

just put in freshly charged nikel metal hidride 1000mah batterys and i can now see the beam in my house in daylight. when i shine it on a white surface it hurts to look at the dot for too long. id say that was quite powerfull.
anyone care to estimate its power for me ?
Nick


----------



## i70CuDa

DJ_Styl .. where did you get the lasers? if from ebay who was the seller? i just got my newwish laser today, dont want to mess with it unless i think its one of the modable ones which will have an affect. 

thanks!
-cuda


----------



## badinstincts

I purchased 3 of these and 3 leadlights 105 from vital spirit off ebay.
1 of these was modded pretty well with just the pot mod and cutting the wire, however these lasers kinda suck BECAUSE:

The diode is not contacting the diode retainer thingy really well, you will tell if you try to remove the diode and then put it back in, it will never align properly again. Its because the hole is too small or the screw is not made really well.

On all 3 of my leadlights I can remove the diodes and align them really well.
1 of my leadlights has VERY efficient crystals and is extremely bright after a few mods, I would say close to 50-80mW...
The other 2 are at 30-50mW... This estimate is made by comparing it to my PPL-260 (266mW laser) at its lowest power setting which is between 30-40mW...


THE REASON why the brightness DIMS after a split second is BECAUSE the diode is overheating, or the crystals are overheating, or both... If you had a leadlight you can simply use thermal paste around the diode, and if your careful enough you can also use it on the crystals themselves. I have only done it on the diode and it now produces a beam at max brightness for as long as I use the laser. Although I haven't used it longer than 5 minutes in a row, as I know that kills diode life... There is a Stage 3 mod for the leadlight to keep the diode and crystals cooler, it is recommended to use Artic Silver thermal paste. I will do this mod on the 2 lower power modded leadlights and let you guys know how it worked out.

So in conclusion the leadlights are much better lasers, I had 3 of each and all 3 modded leadlights killed the newish in comparison tests... I hear that Atlasnova lasers are pretty good too, I will purchase only 1 to test it out. Its supposed to be a better leadlight model...

The diodes are the same in both the leadlights and the newish, at least they look and operate the same, I replaced a burned leadlight diode with the newish diode as I had no use for a crappy newish and the leadlight went back to like new modded operation. The reason why the leadlight diode died is because I had the laser in my pocket while driving and I probably had the button pressed against my wallet and it was on for just too long...


----------



## Dj_sTyLz808

no my lasers was purchase right from the new wish manufacterer in china.=)







i70CuDa said:


> DJ_Styl .. where did you get the lasers? if from ebay who was the seller? i just got my newwish laser today, dont want to mess with it unless i think its one of the modable ones which will have an affect.
> 
> thanks!
> -cuda


----------



## Mr. Sandman

hey... long time reader, first time poster here...

i tried to do the pot mod by drilling a hole near the button but i drilled "too deep" and hit the board...

from what i saw in the pics, i didnt hurt much, but the laser wouldnt power on... i completely removed the board from the laser shaft and im trying to get the diode-thingy out....

im trying to restore it so it works and i am able to see the beam on it, because the ebay seller basically lied to me showing pics on their seller page of the laser beam to be seen in the dark clearly and thus was not the case...

a few questions....

what would be the easiest and best way to get the diode out of the shaft so i dont cause irrepairable damage to it?

can someone post pics of their "unmodified" laser so i can get a visual diagram so i can re-sodier this back together? the other pics werent that clear near the front of the board...

i havnt turned the pot yet.... should i? or do i just need to leave one of the wires unconnected? whats a good suggestion here?

im going to try to work on it this weekend so any helpful replies asap would be very much appreciated...


----------



## stihl88

Mr.Sandman,

The easiest way that i found to get the Diode out of the shaft was to start by removing the laser module from the casing and then de-solder the 3 pins from the diode that are attatched to the circuit board(make not of which pin goes where) Then, desolder the APC wires (Black&Red).

Now with a flathead screwdriver, unscrew the diode backing cap! There are 2 lens thingy's in front of the diode which you will have to take note of which way they go in also because they may accidently fall out after you have taken the diode out. 

Now why do you want to take the diode out? If it is to replace the diode then you will have to replace it with a 500mw 808nm diode. And i have heard that some people are having problems realigning the diode up with the lens or whatever it is after re-soldering the diode back into place!

I have done the above procedure and i must say to be very cautious and slow with everything!

Although i am yet to replace the dam diode yet so if you get to that part of the procedure and have successfult gotten the laser to work afterwards, then let us all know Mate

It's a bit blurry but this is a basic outlay of the components






Oh i think the best way to do the 1st stage mod is to cut the apc wires , it is apparently the same as POT mod but you don't have to stuff around as much.

We need people to help with another mod for these NewWish lasers, Hell theyve got a 500mw diode in them so i want to get a little more from them than just 10mw


----------



## Mr. Sandman

stihl88 said:


> Mr.Sandman,
> 
> The easiest way that i found to get the Diode out of the shaft was to start by removing the laser module from the casing and then de-solder the 3 pins from the diode that are attatched to the circuit board(make not of which pin goes where) Then, desolder the APC wires (Black&Red).
> 
> Now with a flathead screwdriver, unscrew the diode backing cap! There are 2 lens thingy's in front of the diode which you will have to take note of which way they go in also because they may accidently fall out after you have taken the diode out.
> 
> Now why do you want to take the diode out? If it is to replace the diode then you will have to replace it with a 500mw 808nm diode. And i have heard that some people are having problems realigning the diode up with the lens or whatever it is after re-soldering the diode back into place!
> 
> I have done the above procedure and i must say to be very cautious and slow with everything!
> 
> Although i am yet to replace the dam diode yet so if you get to that part of the procedure and have successfult gotten the laser to work afterwards, then let us all know Mate
> 
> It's a bit blurry but this is a basic outlay of the components
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh i think the best way to do the 1st stage mod is to cut the apc wires , it is apparently the same as POT mod but you don't have to stuff around as much.
> 
> We need people to help with another mod for these NewWish lasers, Hell theyve got a 500mw diode in them so i want to get a little more from them than just 10mw



on the lower part of the picture, from the spring to the tip cap, what are those called?

will i have to disassemble the diode to get it out? if so, i might just leave it in... i dont think ill be able to put lenses back where they go... im not very precise, as my original screw-up implies... :lolsign:

would it be a better idea to just cut away the tubing with a dremel? or would that damage the whole diode? or even if i leave that part of the tube around the diode and cut at the rest...

i figure, i can make my own project box to house the whole laser, i just need to figure out how to get it so i can sodier it together...

also, sence you seem to have your apart, can you take a closer, less blurry pic of the diode connected to the driverboard? ill need to see what i have to sodier together..... thx a million in advance


----------



## LaSerBaY

hey im new and im buying a green laser from ebay i dont know if its the on good for modding the specs are and image
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-5mw-Green-Laser-Pointer-Pen-532nm-Astronomy_W0QQitemZ200012309647QQihZ010QQcategoryZ14954QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Type: Class III[/font] 
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Dimension: 14mm×160mm [/font]
<LI>[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Fixed focus, green dot facula, continuous output and 
working time over 5000 hours [/font][font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Output Wavelength: 532 nm [/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Output Power: 5mw[/font] 
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Working Voltage: DC=3.0V [/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Trigger Voltage: DC=2.3V [/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Working Current: I<250mA[/font] 
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Working Temperature: 0C` to +40C`[/font] 
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Storage Temperature: -10C` to +50C`[/font] 
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Appearance and Color: Rubber Black [/font]
[font=Times New Roman, Times, serif]Suggested Duty Cycle: 100 Seconds On / 10 Seconds Off [/font]

could som e one get bk to me ?


----------



## allthatwhichis

Mr. Sandman said:


> im not very precise, as my original screw-up implies... :lolsign:


 
:toilet: :eeksign: :eeew:  :shakehead


----------



## LaSerBaY

i try using a 5mw red laser but it didnt work i couldnt find the wires? does it work on any laser?


----------



## stihl88

LaserBay, That link you sent from ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-5mw-Green-Laser-Pointer-Pen-532nm-Astronomy_W0QQitemZ200012309647QQihZ010QQcategoryZ14954QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This is wat is called a *NewWish* laser!
That particular Laser is moddable but probably only up to about 10mw. You can Mod it by cutting the APC wire(s) or turning up the pot which is a messy way of doing it.


----------



## stihl88

MrSandman, Sorry about the crappy pic's but my camera is not producing good photos for me...Might be cos i shone the laser directly into the apature?

The best way i reackon th remove the module is to cut the black part of the casing about 1cm from the silver tip!


----------



## Dj_sTyLz808

stihl88 said:


> LaserBay, That link you sent from ebay
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-5mw-Gree...7QQihZ010QQcategoryZ14954QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> This is wat is called a *NewWish* laser!
> That particular Laser is moddable but probably only up to about 10mw. You can Mod it by cutting the APC wire(s) or turning up the pot which is a messy way of doing it.


Well yes most of them only go up to 10mW's But I did get a freak unit out of the 30 that I had.After just the APC mod it bumped up to 20-25mW's!!! Heres some pics.Sorry for the bad quality I only have the camera thats on my phone i'll get more pics up on thursday.


----------



## allthatwhichis

:duck: Man you're dangerous with that thing...


----------



## LaSerBaY

ok kool the guy sed it comes apart with screws i tryed doing it to my pen laser red one but theres no wires i can see and fkd up the shape of the laser i fkd it up lol but hey it cost me 15bucks i had a 60mw laser ages ago till my mum threw it out:lolsign:


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## stihl88

Um...there is no such thing as screws on the NewWish lasers dude, sounds as though your talking about a diffirent laser alltogether! If you want to ask MOD questions about it then post some photo's of it in a new thread and maybe someone could identify it for you and see wether or not it can be modified. If it's a $15 Red laser, then probably not. Go and buy that laser from the Ebay link you asked about before and then do to that, the mods based on the NewWish laser.


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## stihl88

Dj_ your very lucky man! Did you measure the power or compare it against a standard 10mw laser? And it looks as though you just finished having a Cigarette with all the windows closed and then took the photos?

Either way it has come out nice and bright, especially on your camera phone.


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## LaSerBaY

im buying one from the link i gave b4


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## LaSerBaY

where u get urs from ? and how much?


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## Kiessling

Gentlemen, just a little reminder that on CPF we'd like conversations in good old written English instead of some mutilated fragments I am seeing in this thread.
Thank you for your cooperation.
bernhard


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## Bionic-Badger

These are all over eBay. Just bid like $20 for one of those $15 shipping Newwish laser sellers and you'll probably get it for less (someone bumped up the price I had to pay to $16 unfortunately).

Beware that the laser gets warm while even unmodded if shown for more than 30 seconds at a time, so any modding might really cause it to burn out quickly. The body has a robber sheathe around the entire body (the black part), and therefore does not transmit heat very well, making the situation worse.


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## stihl88

That sounds a little diffirent than my NewWish laser Bionic! Would you care to send in a photo of it? If it's not a NewWish then we will let you know...


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## stihl88

Yeah, it can get kind of annoying reading SMS type post's


So has anyone figured out some type of resister mod for this yet, or is this thread pretty much dead? Might have to do a search and see if there are some fresh threads for any new NewWish mod's!


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## hellzbellz_inc

just bought a newwish 50mw from ebay, it is bright but since i hve nothing to compare it to i cant really tell if its that bright... will try the LED meter trick tomorrow, but since it cant manage a black bin liner or you cant feel it on your hand... i think i have been seen off a bit!


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## phoenix3200

For those of you wondering how you can get the laser apart without damaging your case, you simply need to insert a flathead jeweler's screwdriver in the lens end, avoid pushing on the lens itself, and force it out the spring side of the tube.

My laser is also useless now, since I did the stupid thing of removing the diode completely. I guess that's what I get for seeing this thread beforehand and not reading it all.

What are other people's average battery life times? Because I swear that mine would last on a brand new set of Energizer batteries for only about 15 minutes total run time. It drew 300mA (aka 1 watt) from my batteries. Was this normal, or should I have requested a replacement from the start?

Now that I definitely can't, off to buy a couple more NewWish-es. My brother now wants a green laser as well.


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## Hemlock Mike

I got mine apart by just twisting the front bezel. It finally come apart and the guts pulled out. My pot is at almost full setting for 200 ma draw and about 5mW output using diode meter.

After working on 110's, this is an unknown. I'm still metering it to figure it out.

Mike


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## Hemlock Mike

Got my Newwish apart and did a little metering. Added two jumpers and a resistor similar to a Leadlight. I did not disconnect the power control - somehow I like that feature. I got 50 mW of green !! I'm afraid to turn it more. 350 ma off Li ion cells. I don't think the switch likes the current.


Mike


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## Hemlock Mike

Does someone on ebay or somewhere have 808 nM / 500 mW diodes in stock for a reasonable price ??


Mike


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## Nisei

I noticed that there's many models on the New Wish green laser page (page loads very very slow here), maybe that's the reason some of you can't mod their model or are the differences between certain models just color & finishing?
Also, they can supply these models up to 200mW!!! Would that mean they "mod" it themselves or putting in different diodes etc?


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## Hemlock Mike

I've asked my Newwish dealer to get me some diodes. I had to explain what they are and he thinks that he can get me a few. THEN I can repair those I've cooked.

Mike


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## Hemlock Mike

Another question: My Newwish put out a double beam - like a small figure 8 -about after one second on. Is this heat related or allignment ???


Mike


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## Nisei

Heat after 1 second? That would be very quick...


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## Hemlock Mike

Nisei --


You are right there !! Cold - warm -- I can see the beam split.

I'll try some stuff someday - I got Arctic 5 coming.

Mike


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## FlyBob

Hemlock Mike said:


> Got my Newwish apart and did a little metering. Added two jumpers and a resistor similar to a Leadlight. I did not disconnect the power control - somehow I like that feature. I got 50 mW of green !! I'm afraid to turn it more. 350 ma off Li ion cells. I don't think the switch likes the current.
> 
> 
> Mike


 
How did you do that? Can you specify on the resistors/jumpers you added/solders? I'm trying to squeeze every last inch of power out of my newwish 5mw with black casing, but i dont know how to solder it properly... last solder only gave me like a 0.5mw boost


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## Hemlock Mike

Bob -- First of all - don't short out the 1R0 resistor as on a 105. That totally disables the APC which I highly recommend to save the diode. Trust me on this :-( ......... 

The newwish and the Light vision may be the same. Send me an email and maybe I can help. This circuit may be a really good control circuit. !!

I just got two from visi something and I'm going to the "LAB" !!!

Mike


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## GTac01

So i bridged the two little legs of the POT that were next to each other and cut the red wire of the APC. Performance is better but is there anything else i can do to increase mw? Thanks.


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## erckgillis

Anyone familir with ability to use or mod these models. Or who is OEM?

http://www.lasersale.com/greenlaserpointers.asp

Perhaps we need to buy a few, swap and do a pass around?


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## erckgillis

ok, ok uncle.

My EE days are behind me but. Diodes DIE. You kill them two ways.

Over voltage or Over current.

Diodes have ONE uniqu feature, as Temp goes UP current draw also RAISES. This is why APC's are essential. Don't cut the wire...

If you dial down the onboard POT you raise the current. 

Want more power? COOL the Diode. This allows you to max voltage 2.7-3.8V and then max current to design specs ALL WHILE using good heat sinks or cheap CPU cooling products.

Remove current limiters, remove regulated power supply and allow heat to build and POOF! Diodes Die everyday.

Cool is key...not power...

Diodes and crystals vary by manufacturer 1/1000 have ability to go 100+mw. They make ONE diode, and one set of crystals and filters. Testing allows "binning" of those less the 5mw those near 4-8mw and those 10-20 50-100 or more get placed in OTHER units.

Few units have a true 1w diode, thus only getting 500mw in a true DPSS at 100% efficenticy.

E


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## RCatR

Just got one from lakesen, it's NOT pot moddable 

I'm going to hook it it up to a madmax and heatsink and plant it into an e1e next week, that ought to give me some more output


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