# Spark SX5 Mini Review



## Bolster (Jan 11, 2013)

I requested a Spark SX5 Neutral for Christmas and I apparently fooled Santa into thinking I was a good boy this year, because he (or rather ‘she’) delivered. I was beguiled by the SX5’s bright advertised lumens, its long runtime, and the fact it can be powered by three of the cells I’ve standardized on, Eneloop AAs. (It may also be powered by a wide range of other cells, of which the li-ions give impressively longer runtimes). 

As regulars to the CPF Headlamps subforum know, I use my headlamps for hand work, that is, working on cars, on houses, on fences, and so on. The most used range for me is from 18” to 6 feet. So when a forumite reported that you could remove the reflector of the SX5 and turn it into a directional flood, I put the SX5 on the want list. Upon receiving it, I almost immediately removed the reflector and have used it as a flood ever since, so I’m not able to report on its throwing capacity, other than to say: with the reflector, it throws like a traditional spot/spill handheld. Recently I made a white paper ring to go around the inside circumference of the light’s body, to eek out a few more lumens than the dark olive-drab anodizing allows. I would like to paint the interior of the screw on bezel white, also. It would be nice if Spark would simply paint any part that potentially receives lumens, white. I can think of no good reason to waste lumens on dark anodizing. 

Mounted on my Elios climbing helmet, the SX5 perched happily, but I eventually remounted the SX5 onto a bump cap. Reason being, the Elios works better as a lie-on-your-back, stay-on-your-head helmet, so my Spark SD52 was a better match for it, since it has no battery pack on the back. On the bump cap, I simply have an easy-to-wear, easy-on-and-off headlamp, which is very handy and fast into action. 








The view of the SX5 trigs to 82 degrees. That’s essentially the same field of view as the much-loved Zebralight H501. I’ve gotten so used to the wide field of view of the ZL H502 (120 degrees) and the Spark SD52 (115 degrees), that the SX5 took some adjustment…the field of view seemed a bit narrow when working in tight places in an attic, head wedged into a narrow crevice. But, when standing further off, the 82 FOV is lovely and very useful. Lucky that this is what the SX5 naturally gives us with the reflector pulled! 

I find I use the lamp mostly on level 3 (of 5), which is the 55 lumen setting. Here it will run for 14 hours on 3 AAs before needing a refill. Occasionally, I bump it up to level 4, 170 lumens (gives 4 hours on AAs). It’s plenty bright at 170, usually more than I need, and I seldom ever use the top level of 320 lm, which, like the 170 setting, is often too bright at close ranges, but handy for viewing across a room. The 320 setting is not _that_ much different from the 170 setting, frankly, and hardly worth the shorter runtime. The sublumen mode is simply something to click through, as I can’t think of when I’d need sublumens for a work helmet mount. Shocking though this may be, I actually don’t wear a helmet for reading in bed or checking on the sleeping kids. [EDIT: Works great as a "find me in the dark" light or nightlight.] 

For tight-quarters attic work, the SX5 in its stock configuration (light up front, battery pack in back of the head) is NOT ideal. This is me crawling under the joists: thwack, thwack, thwack…that’s the sound of the battery pack hitting every joist along the way. I actually wrapped the battery pack in tape to keep it looking unscratched. However, to my amazement, the wire cable between pack and light has not caught on anything yet. Perhaps the fact I taped it down tight to the helmet with masking tape has something to do with that. Am contemplating buying the extension cable and wearing the battery pack at my waist. 

Tint is nice. A little more warm/rose than the SD52, which always struck me as dead neutral. My apologies for the photo…this house has light beige walls, so we can’t see the actual tints. This shot is only good for comparison between the two. Also I’m using a cheapie instamatic that does auto-everything, including color balance, so this is a junk beamshot. It does capture the wide beam of the SD52 next to the more modest beam of the SX5.


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## snakyjake (Jan 16, 2013)

Thanks for the review. I have the SD6 with a reflector that permits full flood or another reflector for more throw; I like the versatility and it is perfect for me. I also like the simplicity of the light and it is easy to pack. The SX5 seems to be the light if you want battery versatility; which I don't find important.

In your SD5 or SX5, does the light cut out when batteries are depleted, or does it give you ample warning?


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## Bolster (Jan 20, 2013)

Would you believe I have yet to run my batts all the way down? I generally charge up before a job so I don't have to deal with dead cells, but I'm sure it will happen soon enough. Will report. 

An anomaly to report: Several times I have left the light on its lowest setting and laid it on carpet. When I reach for the helmet, touching the light, it winks off. I thought this was very strange, until I reached for a Zebralight and when I touched it, it flashed once. It must be static electricity from the carpet.


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## ToddM (Jan 21, 2013)

Bolster,

Have you noticed this unit being dimmer than others of similar lumen rating? I really like the multiple battery options and the option to use a remote long cable battery setup. I was looking at goinggear's youtube review and perhaps its the camera/setup but it looks like even on high it was barely lighting up a reasonable sized back yard to the fence line etc. I haven't heard anyone complaining about it so it's probably just the video.

Also as an update did the light give you any warning as the batteries get low, or does it just cut out if you've had a chance to run it down yet?


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## dparr (Jan 21, 2013)

ToddM said:


> Bolster,
> 
> Have you noticed this unit being dimmer than others of similar lumen rating? I really like the multiple battery options and the option to use a remote long cable battery setup. I was looking at goinggear's youtube review and perhaps its the camera/setup but it looks like even on high it was barely lighting up a reasonable sized back yard to the fence line etc. I haven't heard anyone complaining about it so it's probably just the video.
> 
> Also as an update did the light give you any warning as the batteries get low, or does it just cut out if you've had a chance to run it down yet?



I got my Spark SX5 in on Saturday.

When I compare the SX5 with my Fenix HP11 the Fenix seems to be brighter. 

The HP11 has much more throw while the SX5 is more of a flood lamp. The HP11 lets you see farther while the SX5 lets you see much more of what's around you. Hard to really compare the two lamps

I'm really liking the SX5 with the XM-L led. The nice and wide "warm" beam sort of reminds me of my old carbide lamp. Only 100 x's brighter.

I think that the SX5 will make one hell of a cavin' lamp. I'll know for sure this coming week-end.


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## B0wz3r (Jan 21, 2013)

Great review B! And thanks for the info on the tint... I do tend to prefer warmer neutrals. 

I mentioned this in one of the other threads here, but does the bezel unscrew to put DC-fix on the lens?


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## Bolster (Jan 21, 2013)

ToddM said:


> Have you noticed this unit being dimmer than others of similar lumen rating? I really like the multiple battery options and the option to use a remote long cable battery setup...



Hard for me to say as I pulled out the reflector almost immediately, and that will waste some lumens. However, I always thought the Spark SD52 was over-rated, lumens wise. That said, I'm not the guy to ask about top lumens as I don't use them. Most my use is work, not searching or seeing into the distance, and for working in dark places, the SX5 is refreshingly bright, even "modified for flood" as mine is. And even though I gave the SX5 more hard-use attic work today, I still haven't run down my cells. Part of my "problem" is that in an attic, you don't want to blind yourself with high lumens, so I'm mostly on the 55 lumen setting, which lasts for 14 hours. Will report when I run these down. 



B0wz3r said:


> ...does the bezel unscrew to put DC-fix on the lens?



Yes it does. The bezel is nicely made, screws off easily, the glass lens plops out, and the whole thing is sealed with a fat o-ring, as ALL bezels should be, IMO. So yes, it would be easy for you to DC-fix it, either on the outside or inside. (May not seal as well if you DC-fix the inside.)

While my bezel was off, I fitted a white cardstock ring around the inside of the body, to throw a few more lumens out the frontside after I pulled the reflector. I wondered if I was risking a possibility of singing the paper, but no evidence whatsoever of heat reaching the outer perimeter around the emitter. Played with the idea of fashioning an aluminum ring, but don't want to deal with the sharp edges around the wires or the o-ring. 

Of all the headlights I've owned, this SX5 is the most amenable to user modification. You can really shape it and mold it into the lamp you want, provided you're willing to live with the wire from the pack to the light...the Achilles heel.


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## B0wz3r (Jan 22, 2013)

Bolster said:


> Yes it does. The bezel is nicely made, screws off easily, the glass lens plops out, and the whole thing is sealed with a fat o-ring, as ALL bezels should be, IMO. So yes, it would be easy for you to DC-fix it, either on the outside or inside. (May not seal as well if you DC-fix the inside.)



Good to know; thanks! :twothumbs That's a definite plus. Now that I think about it, it should have been obvious after reading the part where you said you took the reflector out! Doh! 

Regardless; it's still on my list for my next light.


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## uk_caver (Jan 22, 2013)

Another possibility for avoiding wasting light is a homemade conical reflector made from reflective silvered film.

If starting off with an uncreased piece recycled from food packaging (as on UK crisps/US chips), after degreasing with hand dishwashing liquid it's possible to make a _relatively_ flaw-free cone which throws otherwise wasted light roughly forwards to brighten the centre of the beam while still keeping an essentially flood feel - being conical, the reflector doesn't really focus as such.

It's not a pure naked flood and might look a little rough against a flat wall, but even a tiny conical reflector of roughly 90 degree angle can save a serious amount of light.
For some twin-beam lights I make, I use ones made from rings with initial 8mm outside/4mm inside radius on the flood LED, and that gives something like a 100-200% boost of output in the general forward direction. Final dimensions are about 11mm across the front and 4mm deep.
Playing around with different sizes and angles might be worth trying.


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## Ace12 (Jan 22, 2013)

What is DC-fix?


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## Ace12 (Jan 22, 2013)

How does it feel on a bare head without using a hard had??

What is the approx color temperature of the NW?


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## Bolster (Jan 22, 2013)

Ace12 said:


> What is the approx color temperature of the NW?



SX5 uses Cree XML T5 (neutral) and T6 (cool), color temp ranges published here.

Interestingly, this same fact sheet says the T6 has a CRI of 65 and the T5 has a CRI of 75.


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## Bolster (Jan 22, 2013)

uk_caver said:


> Another possibility for avoiding wasting light is a homemade conical reflector made from reflective silvered film...



Hey thanks for the info, and the inspiration, Caver. I have been wanting to try a conical reflector. Let me get you a photo of the light, as there are some prominent solder points I'd have to negotiate around. But this sounds very interesting and promising to me...I think I'll make a paper one first, in any case... as a pattern if nothing else.


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## uk_caver (Jan 23, 2013)

It can be fiddly to make small ones, depending how delicate your fingers are and how fine your co-ordination is.

Roughly speaking, if a ring of material has a ~4mm inside radius, when rolled into a 90 degree cone it leaves a hole just about big enough to drop over the square of an XP-G.
I scribe inner and outer rings with a pair of compasses (after taping the clean sheet of material to a cutting mat), and then cut out the rings with scissors and remove a 90 degree segment from the ring, so if there was a small crease on the ring before cutting, I make sure that ends up in the lost quarter.
I stick a _tiny_ piece of sellotape on one of the open ends of the ring and then fold the ring into a cone and secure with the loose end of the tape, which is the tricky part. Tweezers will be useful here for small reflectors (I make quite a few, so I eventually gave up on tweezers and whittled a cone from wood to form the cones on).
After getting the ring aligned, I trim off excess to leave a small overlap (a big overlap tends to flatten out the cone) and fix the ring with a miniscule smear of epoxy in the overlap, placed with a fine piece of wire.
I permanently fix my reflectors to the LED MCPCB with epoxy, but for a temporary fitting I'd probably roll one deep enough to be held in by the front lens.


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## B0wz3r (Jan 23, 2013)

Ace12 said:


> What is DC-fix?



It's a plastic film with a sand-like texture and adhesive on one side, made to be put on windows to blur out anything you see through them. Kind of like how those old shower walls are made, if that makes sense. You can cut circles out of it that match the size of the lens of a light and then peel the backing off to apply the film. Essentially makes the glass 'frosted' and disperses the light more evenly across the angle of the beam. You can find it with a quick google search, and Phaserburn, one of the members here, sells single sheets of it, which you can order directly from him.


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## Bolster (Jan 23, 2013)

ToddM said:


> Also as an update did the light give you any warning as the batteries get low, or does it just cut out if you've had a chance to run it down yet?



Been running the light on high to run down the cells, and it finally happened. I was using the 4th highest setting (170 lm) and suddenly I found myself in utter darkness, no warning. (Startling, and not in a good way.) I reached up and turned the light on again, and got another minute at 170lm, then it extinguished again. So I lit it back up to the 55 lm setting, and it shone merrily for another 30 or 40 minutes. 

So while there is no graceful step-down as there _should_ be, there is a sort of manual step-down, if you will. When the light winks out at a high setting, there's still plenty of juice to run the lower settings for quite a while.



B0wz3r said:


> It's a plastic film with a sand-like texture and adhesive on one side...



And, for some reason, is much more efficient than other textured films. I've tried the privacy film for windows sold at HD, and DC-fix just robs fewer lumens.


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## B0wz3r (Jan 24, 2013)

There's other stuff out there too, that's made to be optically correct and also results in very little light loss. I bought a couple of sheets of it online over a year ago, but honestly can't remember where I got it. All I remember is the website where I got it had some images showing no noticeable reduction in illumination with the film on the lens of various lights. It has a finer grain to it than DC-fix though, so it doesn't spread the hot-spot quite as much. I also have found the backing on the adhesive of DC-fix is a little easier to remove. Overall, I prefer DC-fix.


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## B0wz3r (Jan 24, 2013)

Bolster said:


> Been running the light on high to run down the cells, and it finally happened. I was using the 4th highest setting (170 lm) and suddenly I found myself in utter darkness, no warning. (Startling, and not in a good way.) I reached up and turned the light on again, and got another minute at 170lm, then it extinguished again. So I lit it back up to the 55 lm setting, and it shone merrily for another 30 or 40 minutes.
> 
> So while there is no graceful step-down as there _should_ be, there is a sort of manual step-down, if you will. When the light winks out at a high setting, there's still plenty of juice to run the lower settings for quite a while.



Odd; my ST5 doesn't do that, it just dims down to the next level. That would be bothersome. I wonder if the ST6 acts the same way as the ST5, or if it behaves like the SX5 when the cell depletes.

Anyone here know if the ST6-460nw steps down, or shuts off, when the cell depletes? Thanks in advance!


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## Bolster (Jan 27, 2013)

Another session in an attic, more whacking of the battery pack on the joists, and I finally climbed down and retrieved my SD52 to finish the job. I'm going to have to invest in the longer cable, and figure out how to hang the battery pack from my belt, because that battery "tube" is just too high profile for use in tight quarters.

That's not ALL bad. If I hang the battery pack from the belt, I'm tempted to try the 26650 Li-Ion. Any recommendations on cell or charger for 26650? Doesn't 4-sevens sell a charger?


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## beast1210 (Jan 28, 2013)

Bolster said:


> Another session in an attic, more whacking of the battery pack on the joists, and I finally climbed down and retrieved my SD52 to finish the job. I'm going to have to invest in the longer cable, and figure out how to hang the battery pack from my belt, because that battery "tube" is just too high profile for use in tight quarters.
> 
> That's not ALL bad. If I hang the battery pack from the belt, I'm tempted to try the 26650 Li-Ion. Any recommendations on cell or charger for 26650? Doesn't 4-sevens sell a charger?



I look forward to more review on this light, I believe the nitecore intellicharger v2, the 2 cell charger does 26650


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## B0wz3r (Jan 28, 2013)

Bolster said:


> Another session in an attic, more whacking of the battery pack on the joists, and I finally climbed down and retrieved my SD52 to finish the job. I'm going to have to invest in the longer cable, and figure out how to hang the battery pack from my belt, because that battery "tube" is just too high profile for use in tight quarters.
> 
> That's not ALL bad. If I hang the battery pack from the belt, I'm tempted to try the 26650 Li-Ion. Any recommendations on cell or charger for 26650? Doesn't 4-sevens sell a charger?



Yep, they do. Only a single bay though, but with a cell like a 26650 it's probably not going to be an issue. I don't know anything about the specifics of the charger and how it handles cells though.


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## dparr (Jan 28, 2013)

I ended up getting a Nitecore Intellicharger v2 and a 4sevens 26650 to use with my SX5. 

On an 8 hour caving trip this weekend I mostly used the 180lm setting. There was plenty of power left over after the trip. I went on a long hike Sunday night on the same charge.

I love this headlamp! It gives a great wide flood for caving with a smooth and full hot spot. It doesn't throw near as far as my Fenix HP11 but the beam is much more user friendly. The HP11 has a narrow hot spot (without the diffuser) that washes out what's at your feet.

I think that I've found my perfect cavin' lamp. Small, long run times and lots of light.


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## Changchung (Jan 28, 2013)

👍

Do you buy the battery pack or the light it self can take 26650?

I am thinking to buy a battery pack to add to another light what I have.


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


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## dparr (Jan 28, 2013)

Changchung said:


> 
> 
> Do you buy the battery pack or the light it self can take 26650?
> 
> ...



The standard battery pack that comes with the SX5 uses a spacer tube for the 26650. It takes some force to put the cap on when using the 26650 battery. If you're not careful the cap could go flying when removing it. 

Very impressive run times with the 26650.


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## Changchung (Jan 28, 2013)

dparr said:


> The standard battery pack that comes with the SX5 uses a spacer tube for the 26650. It takes some force to put the cap on when using the 26650 battery. If you're not careful the cap could go flying when removing it.
> 
> Very impressive run times with the 26650.



Cool... Had a spacer for 18650? What is the mah of your 26650?


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


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## dparr (Jan 28, 2013)

Changchung said:


> Cool... Had a spacer for 18650? What is the mah of your 26650?
> 
> 
> Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...



No spacer for a 18650 provided. One could be easily be made.

It's a 4sevens 26650 with 4000mah


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## Changchung (Jan 28, 2013)

dparr said:


> No spacer for a 18650 provided. One could be easily be made.
> 
> It's a 4sevens 26650 with 4000mah



Ok, thanks, I just want to know all that for informative reason... I have enought headlamps already...

I ask about the batteries because with a 3400 18650 the weight will be less...


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


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## Bolster (Feb 5, 2013)

Two interesting things to report: 

1) The SX5 sometimes has the same issue that my SD52 does: It will occasionally forget its last setting. And it may forget relatively rapidly, in an hour or so. But this doesn't happen very often...usually it remembers the last setting over a work break. However if you leave it sit for several days, it will certainly revert to moonlight mode on startup. 

2) I was working a job where I was using a FRS radio to communicate back and forth with a colleague (me in attic, colleague on ground), and whenever I would key up my radio, the SX5 would go into turbo mode...! As soon as I was done talking and backed off the key, it would drop back into the mode I was using...! It was pretty funny to see the attic light up every time I keyed the radio.

Add this to the anomaly I reported in post #3 (static electricity shutting the lamp off), and this SX5 has some interesting "personality issues."


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## beast1210 (Feb 5, 2013)

Bolster said:


> 2) I was working a job where I was using a FRS radio to communicate back and forth with a colleague (me in attic, colleague on ground), and whenever I would key up my radio, the SX5 would go into turbo mode...! As soon as I was done talking and backed off the key, it would drop back into the mode I was using...! It was pretty funny to see the attic light up every time I keyed the radio.



My crew boss was wearing a mammot lucido tx1, did they same thing, kinda got annoying being on the radio on and off for 16 hour night shifts. What causes it?


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## B0wz3r (Feb 6, 2013)

Thanks for the extra info on the lamp, B. I think I'm definitely going to get the ST6-460nw as my next headlamp. After much thought, and a lot of reading, I think it'll be the best choice for me. It'll take the place of my ST5-190nw as my 'household' headlamp, and then my ST5 will go into one of my outdoors packs.


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## TSellers (Feb 8, 2013)

> whenever I would key up my radio, the SX5 would go into turbo mode...



I've found that this just happens on FRS frequencies, and to a much lesser extent on VHF frequencies. What I've found is if you are on step 1, it takes you up one, if you are on step 2, it goes to Turbo mode+, if you are on step 3 it goes to Turbo mode, if you are on Turbo mode it goes to Turbo mode +. By 'Turbo Mode +' I mean a higher output than normal Turbo Mode. It's a bit like a remote control for your light if you need a quick burst, albeit a very short range remote control withal.

It does not seem to make any difference which FRS channel you are on, or whether you are on GMRS or FRS. The effect diminishes with distance, so after 4 meters there is no more effect (my radio is a commercial grade dual bander that puts out 3.7 watts at FRS frequencies, the consumer brands are probably more like 2 watts. It is unclear at this point if the effect is a function of the output power of the radio, I suspect it is). If you want a quick burst of Turbo Mode+ at its highest setting, then you need to hold the antenna as close as possible to the light. When I tried a VHF antenna on FRS frequencies there was a much smaller effect.

I've tried the SD6, ST6, SD52, SD73, Nitecore EA4, and MagLite XL200 and they do not react to FRS transmissions.


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## beast1210 (Feb 17, 2013)

As mentioned by others in this thread, HP11 out throws the SX5, you mentioned the SX5 spill was around 80° , how about the spot? Trying to figure out what has more reach, the SD with reflector 18° spot 70°spill, or the SX5. Iv seen a great post of the SD6 vs ST6 
http://translate.google.de/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.taschenlampen-forum.de%2Fspark%2F12777-beamshots-sd6-reflektor.html&act=url

Waiting for more info on the HP25 coming out, it looks like even with only 170 lumens its pushing 160 meters beating the hp11 with 277 lumens? 
I realize I am asking alot for a headlamp" flood & throw" and most of you will tell me to use handheld thrower, but for wildland fire I just have too much going on to do that. currently I run SD52 w/o reflector and an eagletac p20a2 w/c2 upgrade. Its not ideal.


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## Woods Walker (Feb 17, 2013)

I am thinking about getting Spark SX5-NW Cree XML T5 Neutral White AA AAA 26650 Flashlight Headlight. I copied and pasted the name as don't know much about Spark headlamps/flashlights. That or a multi AA Fenix headlamp but I kinda need it to handle heavy rain and want a bunch of light for trail walking through rattlesnake country. Had a few close calls. Was thinking about a H502 (on the warmer side) but maybe it is time to try something new as have 3 ZLs.

Beyond the battery options AA./AAA how does this stack up to other offerings from Spark? Too much time has been spent away from CPF and I need to catch up. I still think the HL20 is underrated.


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## Bolster (Feb 17, 2013)

Woods Walker said:


> Beyond the battery options AA./AAA how does this stack up to other offerings from Spark? Too much time has been spent away from CPF and I need to catch up. I still think the HL20 is underrated.



I'll take a shot at this, but hope I'm not the only one. The SX5 seems to be in Spark's tradition of high quality workmanship, has the same advantages (good anodizing, flexibility of shaping the beam by leaving or pulling the reflector) the same foibles (such as sometimes forgetting its previous setting, and I suspect that its top advertised lumen rating is a little optimistic), and seems to be a particularly good bargain, costwise, compared to what it delivers. The cable and the battery pack are of course a drawback for which you have to be willing to sacrifice the occasional cord-snag (tho I've not had one yet), and a high profile bump at the back of your head, or belt, or wherever you put the battery pack. Wonderfully versatile for cell options, as you know. It's lightweight, sturdy, bright, and long-running. Spark's neutrals strike me as really neutral...little discernible tint...I'd certainly want it no cooler, and wish they'd make a high CRI with a little warmth in it. Personally I'd not want to wear this light without a helmet, as I like being able to don and doff the light quickly, but to each his own on that score.

It occurs this might make an ideal jogging lamp if you put the battery pack at your waist and let it flood at 80 degrees, which seems to be a good jogging spread. Would likely work well for night hiking in snake country as you'd have good peripheral vision (with the reflector pulled that is) and plenty of run time (170 lumen for 4 hours ought to do you, or even 320 for 2 hours if a shorter hike, but that's pretty bright at night).

I can't compare to Fenix, as I've always shied away from their combination of spot and cool tint. I'm more of a warm floody myself.

Great HL20 review by the way!


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## TSellers (Feb 17, 2013)

I've been wearing both the ST6 and SX5 alternatively for night ski. I do not wear a helmet but winter head gear does absorb some of the headband tension. So far no issues with the SX5 battery pack irritating me, but I'm used to wearing this form factor from previous headlamps. Subjectively I can hardly tell the difference between the ST6 on Super at 460lm and the SX5 at apparently something like 360lm, although the latter does have a noticeably warmer hot spot. I have one of each model of Spark so have the ability to compare them. The SX5 is growing on me and I can see it becoming my favourite light for general head mounted spot, and I'll probably keep using the SD6 with flood lens mounted with the clip below my knee on a velcro strap for night track skiing. I also like the ability to charge my phone in an emergency from teh battery pack using a small USB cable that I obtained that I can attach to the battery pack. I'm using an 18650 cell shimmed with a piece of 1/4" tubing to power it right now. Next time I grab batteries I'm going to order and try a Soshine LiFePO4 26650 3200mAh cell. The one drawback that occurred to me about this model is the apparent 6.4v high voltage cutoff as opposed to their other models that go to 7.6. This lower voltage requirement means you cannot pop 3 LiFePO4 AA or AAA's into it.


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## Woods Walker (Feb 18, 2013)

Bolster said:


> I'll take a shot at this, but hope I'm not the only one. The SX5 seems to be in Spark's tradition of high quality workmanship, has the same advantages (good anodizing, flexibility of shaping the beam by leaving or pulling the reflector) the same foibles (such as sometimes forgetting its previous setting, and I suspect that its top advertised lumen rating is a little optimistic), and seems to be a particularly good bargain, costwise, compared to what it delivers. The cable and the battery pack are of course a drawback for which you have to be willing to sacrifice the occasional cord-snag (tho I've not had one yet), and a high profile bump at the back of your head, or belt, or wherever you put the battery pack. Wonderfully versatile for cell options, as you know. It's lightweight, sturdy, bright, and long-running. Spark's neutrals strike me as really neutral...little discernible tint...I'd certainly want it no cooler, and wish they'd make a high CRI with a little warmth in it. Personally I'd not want to wear this light without a helmet, as I like being able to don and doff the light quickly, but to each his own on that score.
> 
> It occurs this might make an ideal jogging lamp if you put the battery pack at your waist and let it flood at 80 degrees, which seems to be a good jogging spread. Would likely work well for night hiking in snake country as you'd have good peripheral vision (with the reflector pulled that is) and plenty of run time (170 lumen for 4 hours ought to do you, or even 320 for 2 hours if a shorter hike, but that's pretty bright at night).
> 
> ...



Thanks.

I noticed it comes with 2 battery carriers. I had problems with plastic multi cell holders in the past. Wonder if those were special or something a person could order backups anyplace? It would also be nice to just to pop a new one in during a change at night rather than monkeying around loading 3 batteries into the carrier. I guess they sell a longer cable to toss the battery pack in a jacket pocket or pack? It seems Spark has a 2XAA offering with an extra reflector for times when a spot might be better than flood. But then again you said the reflector can be removed with the SX5? Guessing the bezel window then goes back over the LED? The extra battery pack looked to have a nice Al holder but seems based on lithium rechargables and primaries. Does it really take 2-9 CR123s with the optional holder? Yet the working voltage is under 7? NW would be more to my liking than cool white but still have yet to find a tint as good (for me) as the NW XP-E Q3 or XR-E Q2.


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## Bolster (Feb 18, 2013)

Good commentary TSellers, appreciate the perspective from a LiIon user. Curious about this USB charge cable you have rigged up. 



Woods Walker said:


> I had problems with plastic multi cell holders in the past. Wonder if those were special or something a person could order backups anyplace? It would also be nice to just to pop a new one in during a change at night rather than monkeying around loading 3 batteries into the carrier. I guess they sell a longer cable to toss the battery pack in a jacket pocket or pack? It seems Spark has a 2XAA offering with an extra reflector for times when a spot might be better than flood. But then again you said the reflector can be removed with the SX5? Guessing the bezel window then goes back over the LED?



Try to answer a few questions I might be qualified to answer and ignore the rest. Not sure about whether the multi cell holders are exclusive or not, but very much like the idea of having a spare. I forgot to say in my review that the multi cell holder was the one thing that felt cheap to me, but the operative word is "felt," as it functions fine. Yes, longer cable and external cell pack available, I don't own either (yet). Yes the 2AA offering is the SD52 as mentioned above. Yes reflector may be pulled from SX5 for flood, and it makes a nice flood, about 80 degrees of even beautiful light with no hotspot, see the photos earlier in this thread. (Did you read the earlier part of this thread??) Yes, bezel and lens/window go back in place after reflector pulled. With the reflector missing, you need to screw the bezel down further that before. Waterproofness in that case is unknown, I haven't tested it. I have been using it this way since Xmas with no complaints.


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## Woods Walker (Feb 18, 2013)

Bolster said:


> Try to answer a few questions I might be qualified to answer and ignore the rest. Not sure about whether the multi cell holders are exclusive or not, but very much like the idea of having a spare. I forgot to say in my review that the multi cell holder was the one thing that felt cheap to me, but the operative word is "felt," as it functions fine.



I found what looks to be the same 3xAA and 3XAAA battery holders online. They were a 1-2 dollars each of a few or around 30 cents each for min of 1000 in the case of the 3xAA. If I get a Spark SX5 I will buy extras.

Thanks again for your help.


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## TSellers (Feb 18, 2013)

> Curious about this USB charge cable you have rigged up



Mine was given to me, but I believe something like this will work. I've also had good luck using the ENB power pack if you carry unprotected 18650 cells ( I quite like that pack as it is so versatile allowing me to also charge my batteries).

And while we're on the topic, this is another item I have on my shopping list for the SX5 as it will allow you to shim the 18650 cells into the default battery pack, looks better than the 1/4" tubing I've been struggling with.


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## Bolster (Feb 18, 2013)

Woods Walker said:


> I found what looks to be the same 3xAA and 3XAAA battery holders online. They were a 1-2 dollars each of a few or around 30 cents each for min of 1000 in the case of the 3xAA. If I get a Spark SX5 I will buy extras.
> 
> Thanks again for your help.



That's great; if you get spare AA cartridges, put me down for one (or share source and I'll get my own). The holder dimensions (getting calipers) are: 
2.290" length (from pos dimple to neg circular dimple)
1.200" max diameter. 

It would be nice to have a spare cartridge loaded so it's a quick change.


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## TSellers (Feb 27, 2013)

> Curious about this USB charge cable you have rigged up.



Bolster, I just noticed there is a picture of such a setup on the SX5 page of the Spark Canadian dealer.


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## degarb (May 12, 2013)

dparr said:


> I got my Spark SX5 in on Saturday.
> 
> When I compare the SX5 with my Fenix HP11 the Fenix seems to be brighter.
> 
> ...




I really love everything about this light, except the reflector and throw. The drive current presets are still stuck in 1980, where full day target was a pipedream. (halfday+ full work day, please).

I am glad the led is warm. How is color compared with the hp11 xpg r5?

They need to step it up and offer swappable reflectors!!! I can't buy, since I need a different reflector to do my job; the lamp cannot do a required 4000 candela for 8+ hours. 1000 candela is essential for arm length detail work and 4000 for details up to 6 foot step back inspection. Beyond 4000, if a lamp is capable, I would prefer to spread out the extra light than more throw. Though, 9-16000 candela is needed for 15 minute blocks of time, during a workday.


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