# DX Graveyard



## DM51 (Feb 23, 2009)

Some examples of DX quality...


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## snewbie (Feb 27, 2009)

Ok after hearing how great Romisen lights are on here and other forum websites, I decided to buy a few from deals extreme. 
I bought an RC-G2, 2 RC-F4s(one turned out to have a forward clicky), and one other (1 AA like the RC-G2, but with a reverse clicky)that ended up in my wifes purse. All but the reverse clicky RC-F4 have ended up very quickly with the same problem, but I havent played much with the reverse clicky rc-f4, so it may end up that way also. I have only had these lights for a few months. In fact I am still using the first batterries. I am using energizer Lithium photo 123 which says they replace cr123 and cr123a type batterries among others. For the AA lights, I am using regular ole Duracells.

The problem is that they do not turn on reliably. They are possessed. The only way to fix it is to spin the tail cap off, and twist the spring, then put the cap back on. Sometimes I have to do this 2 or 3 times. Why such great reviews about a bunch of lights that arent at all reliable?
Is there a fix other than just spending real money on less lights?
Thanks.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Feb 27, 2009)

*Re: Romisen lights are junk.*

Who the heck here said Romisen lights were "great"?

They are cheap 'thrown-out' pieces of crap, only good to lend to non-flashaholics...


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## Art (Mar 5, 2009)

Well, after 2 months waiting for the light to come from DX it arrived yesterday... forgot it at work so only tested it today.
Just put a fresh 18650 in and.. nothing.

I remember there was some problems with this lights that had to be solved... but I cant find it here. :mecry:

Help.

Regards


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## yalskey (Mar 5, 2009)

*Re: MTE SSC P7-D doesnt work*

Welcome to the club. Mine worked for all of 3 minutes (if that) before it broke. Cheap crap. I'll never waste my money on that kind of junk again.

Anyone want a defective MTE P7? It's just $10 but I'll need about 3 months to ship it to you!

/sarcasm


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## dannyleroy (Jun 19, 2009)

I purchase many lights from DX and other sites, And I resell them. I purchased a couple lights from DX and they dont work, I have use rechargable ULTRAFIRE 18650, AND ULTRAFIRE CR123, I put the cr123 batteries in the flashlights and the LED turned blue and started smoking, and now the lights dont work. WHY did this happen? also did the same to ROMISEN RC-G4 as well. Can someone tell me why this happened? I DO NOT WANT TO SEND THESE BACK BECAUSE DX HAS NOT REPLIED TO ME IN 2 WEEKS NOW ABOUT THIS ISSUE, I SPEND A LOT OF MONEY ON THAT SITE AND THEY WILL NOT GET BACK TO ME ABOUT THIS.


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## gswitter (Jun 19, 2009)

*Re: PROFESSIONAL HELP PLEASE*

They send you broken lights, and you want to send them more money?


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## DM51 (Jun 20, 2009)

Your misfortunes with DX products are by no means unique. This forum has to put up with more complaints about this dealer than any other. You aren't the first, and perhaps because few people seem to heed the frequent warnings given here, you won't be the last.


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## Loobz (Jul 7, 2009)

Hi,

I bought a Super Thrower Far Projection 3W Cree P4 Flashlight from dealextreme (warranty expired) and t appears to be faulty.

Basically when I turn it on, it gives 100% output for a split second, then reduces to about 1/4 of its original output and stays like this. Both the 18650 batteries are fully charged and I have also tried another set. I can only break the torch down by removing:
1 - Tailcap (its a on/off clicky)
2 - extension tube.
3 - glass lens and reflector.

It was working 100% for a while, now its gone like this.

Any ideas? When this torch is working its very impressive.


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## TAIGERSX (Jul 27, 2009)

This light has been "known" for pushing 1000 lumens OTF and good regulation so I decided to give it a try.

This light is definitely the brightest light I own for the first 10 minutes. Now it's DEAD  . I think the reason is due to the twisty tail switch. It works very erratically. Sometime it's on, sometime it's off . After I removed the crushed o-orings the light is completely dead. It seems to me this is because of the contact problem as the O-rings help keep the tailcap straight in place. The orings that came with it are very flimsy and actually crushed by the tailcap threads when I twisted the tailcap. I hope looking for a new O-rings would solve the problem.What I'm gonna do with this light now I'm not sure :shakehead. So if anybody out there thinks about getting this light, please think again. It's not worth it .


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## simn22 (Nov 28, 2009)

Hello, 
First off, awesome forum!

I have just purchased 6 akoray K-106 (5 mode) flashlights. 

I have the older orange tailend 3 mode one and it works great, thats why i brought these. 

Upon inspection, they all looked fine just like my older akoray, but the problem is once turned on, they will all switch modes with the slightest tap. One even switches modes if you tilt it back and forth. 

Is there something I can do to stop this? Securing the battery seems to help it a little. 

Thanks!


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## jeffe (Nov 28, 2009)

*Re: Just purchased 6 new Akoray's all defective*

I just got one of these Akorays from Dx. It does not work with alkaline or lithium AAs. No light, nothing.


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## simn22 (Nov 29, 2009)

*Re: Just purchased 6 new Akoray's all defective*



jabe1 said:


> Did you get them from DX or KD?



I got these from DX


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## DM51 (Nov 29, 2009)

*Re: Just purchased 6 new Akoray's all defective*



simn22 said:


> I got these from DX


No surprise that they don't work, then.


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## Fram (Dec 16, 2009)

*WF-008 recoill thrower problems*

Hi guys,
Complete and utter noob here.

Well I have recieved my first ever LED Flashlight from DX and It doesn't work.

Its an Ultrafire WF-008, single mode Q5 cree recoil thrower. 2.8-9v

I have stripped down the light and on the outerside of the head at the bottom where the battery touches, there is what appears to be a wire soldered to the edge of the circuit board then just left to hang on the outside of the reflector. It is a bare wire with no insulation on it just the wire strands. It just does not look right to me.

If anyone has any ideas of what to try I would be most greatful, I know you guys get hundreds of these "help I am an idiot" threads off us noobs but I did a lot of research before buying and read a lot of stuff on here, just gutted that its my first torch and it's Kaput.


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## Art (Dec 19, 2009)

*Re: WF-008 recoill thrower problems*

Sorry for a bit of off topic but that is a DOA and I dont really know how DX gets away with this.
They sell a lot of crap and we buy it and if you have any problem after 30 days of use you wont get warranty unless you send it and pay the shipping.


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## Gadget_Guru (Dec 24, 2009)

Howdy all,

I bought a single unprotected "5000mAh" 25500 (C-size) Li-Ion (Cobalt) cell from Deal Extreme in September, 2008. Here is the page on DX's site.

At the time, I tested it with my Turnigy Accucell-6 charger. I charged at 2A to 4.20V, then discharged at 1A to 3.00V. The measured capacity was 2918mAh, not bad, but certainly no where near the rated 5000. This gross exaggeration of capacity is typical of cheap Li-Ion cells, in my experience.

So, lacking any immediate need for the cell, I used the Accucell charger's storage feature, and brought the cell to 3.8V, and put it on the shelf until I had need of it. There it sat at room temperature until I checked it a week or two ago. Cell voltage measured practically zero, and attempts to charge were unsuccesful.

Curious as to the cause of the failure, I peeled off the shrink wrap and insulating washer from the + end of the cell, and discovered this corrosion from leakage:












Has anyone else experienced similar failure with these cells?

I wonder if it's just a fluke bad cell. I have had good quality 18650 Li-Ion cells sit for YEARS in storage, with little loss of capacity, even when stored fully charged.


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## rje58 (Dec 27, 2009)

*Re: Ultrafire C3 - Flickering problem *NOT FIXED**

I bought an Ultrafire C3 from DX about a month ago - the older P4 model. 

It worked great for the first few weeks, then it developed a severe flickering problem. I read this thread, and some others, tried all the different obvious solutions. Nothing worked... head was tight, and the light worked, but still flickered when shorting to bypass the tailcap/clicky switch.

Then it quit working at all! On disassembling the head, it's obvious the wiring / soldering on the emitter is bad... I haven't had a chance to finish taking the head apart to see if there is any hope for it... oh well. At least I'm learning something from it... 

Bummer...


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