# EagleTac D25A Clicky



## trailblazer295 (Apr 4, 2013)

Anyone have experience with this light with the XM-L2 emitter or know where I can find a review? Considering the Ti version for a high powered keychain light.


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## bmel17 (Apr 10, 2013)

I have been looking at this myself for the last few days. I like the Ti look but it's hard to justify the $20 price increase from black


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## pjandyho (Apr 10, 2013)

Forget this light. It was once my favorite AA light but it has been problematic all of a sudden. Many here in CPF has encountered either similar or some other problems. Pre-flash, failure to switch modes using batteries other than 14500, unable to reach max output are all the problems I had faced, and this was after sending it to Hong Kong to get it serviced. In fact, I am facing more problems with this light than before sending it in. Utterly disappointing.


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## WilsonCQB1911 (Apr 11, 2013)

I had several reservations about it. First, no moonlight mode, despite what is advertised. Second, no real 14500 support - direct drive. Third, preflash that was super annoying. 

It's pretty though, and a nice slim size. But I greatly prefer my 47s QTA or my SC52.


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## Fireclaw18 (Apr 11, 2013)

WilsonCQB1911 said:


> I had several reservations about it. First, no moonlight mode, despite what is advertised. Second, no real 14500 support - direct drive. Third, preflash that was super annoying.
> 
> It's pretty though, and a nice slim size. But I greatly prefer my 47s QTA or my SC52.



The 2013 D25a Ti Clicky has full lithium ion support. There's still no moonlight mode, but it does have a reliably functioning high, medium and low.


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## markr6 (Apr 11, 2013)

Too bad about these issues. I was really looking forward to the XM-L2 T6 neutral version. I may wait for the SC52 even though it's a bit warmer than I would like.


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## bkb (Apr 22, 2013)

Ive had my D25a clicky for a few days now and I have to say I find the preflash quite annoying. Is this a design flaw or is it supposed to do this ? I like the H-M-L modes but there are too many strobe modes.


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## reppans (Apr 22, 2013)

Wow, I'm glad I bought a few copies of the 2012 version then - I love mine. Moonlight measures 0.3lms by my light meter which I find perfect for me from my Quark Xs - wish I could find another floody 1xAA that had the same level as it is one of my most often used. The 2013s only have partial Li-ion support (lower modes bump up), but the light is too small with limited thermal management anyways. 

What do you folks consider pre-flash? My 2012 "pops" something like 0.6 lms for a millisecond on moonlight, but I hardly call that pre-flash. I do have one Quark that pre-flashes Max on all lower modes.... that's serious pre-flash.



bkb said:


> .... I like the H-M-L modes but there are too many strobe modes.



You know you can always just do a half second long press to go back to low so you never enter the strobes.... the short reset is one of my favorite features I wish the Quarks had.


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## awyeah (Apr 22, 2013)

Is the pre-flash specific to the D25A? I have a D25C clicky that I bought last year... I think it is an XP-G2. No pre-flash.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 22, 2013)

Mine is totally problematic, especially in its primary function as a light. To get it to turn on at all I have to fiddle with the head, and it refuses to work if the head is on tight, so it has to be fairly loose and as a result I never use it.

Shame too, as it's such a nice size and has a good beam pattern, tint and range of outputs, or at least it used to.


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## Verndog (Apr 22, 2013)

awyeah said:


> Is the pre-flash specific to the D25A? I have a D25C clicky that I bought last year... I think it is an XP-G2. No pre-flash.



What exactly is pre-flash?


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## awyeah (Apr 22, 2013)

It's when you turn the light on to a low mode, but it briefly flashes brightly before going to the low mode. Four sevens lights are famous for that.


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## sspc (Apr 22, 2013)

kaichu dento said:


> Mine is totally problematic, especially in its primary function as a light. To get it to turn on at all I have to fiddle with the head, and it refuses to work if the head is on tight, so it has to be fairly loose and as a result I never use it.
> 
> Shame too, as it's such a nice size and has a good beam pattern, tint and range of outputs, or at least it used to.


Sounds like my Nitecore D10


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## awyeah (Apr 22, 2013)

kaichu dento said:


> Mine is totally problematic, especially in its primary function as a light. To get it to turn on at all I have to fiddle with the head, and it refuses to work if the head is on tight, so it has to be fairly loose and as a result I never use it.
> 
> Shame too, as it's such a nice size and has a good beam pattern, tint and range of outputs, or at least it used to.



That is a shame. I hope that doesn't start happening to my D25C clicky.


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## SCEMan (Apr 22, 2013)

awyeah said:


> That is a shame. I hope that doesn't start happening to my D25C clicky.



Or my 2012 D25A Ti


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## Verndog (Apr 22, 2013)

awyeah said:


> It's when you turn the light on to a low mode, but it briefly flashes brightly before going to the low mode. Four sevens lights are famous for that.



Thank you...none of mine do that. I have the 2011 version D25A NW XPG that is still perfect. I was considering the Ti version as I saw a price drop in "New" XML NW, so I guess that is the one to avoid?


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## bkb (Apr 22, 2013)

reppans said:


> You know you can always just do a half second long press to go back to low so you never enter the strobes.... the short reset is one of my favorite features I wish the Quarks had.


Just tried this, now that I can bypass the strobe modes makes me like it better. I might keep it. Nobody has answered the question of the preflash being part of the interface or a defect.


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## jcw122 (Apr 22, 2013)

From my discussions with Eagletac CS suggest that retailers have been shipped the L2's but haven't gotten them in stock yet.


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## Dubois (Apr 23, 2013)

bkb said:


> Just tried this, now that I can bypass the strobe modes makes me like it better. I might keep it. Nobody has answered the question of the preflash being part of the interface or a defect.



It's a defect. I raised it with CS when my DA25A Ti (2013) arrived in January. I was told a "ticket" was being raised with their engineers. I found it so annoying, together with the fact that the moonlight mode comes and goes seemingly on a whim (mostly goes), that I've abandoned eneloops with this light. Works very well on 14500's, but of course gets hot quickly on high.


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## agent80 (Apr 25, 2013)

Does the pre-flash problem affect the Eagletac D25A Mini too? or is it only the clickies that experience this?


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## SCEMan (Apr 25, 2013)

agent80 said:


> Does the pre-flash problem affect the Eagletac D25A Mini too? or is it only the clickies that experience this?



My 2012 D25A "clicky" Ti has no preflash on Moonlight mode.


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## agent80 (Apr 25, 2013)

I am going to buy the Mini, XP-G2. Is it possible that the pre flash problem may exist on my light? Is there anything I should expect?


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## bkb (Apr 27, 2013)

Got some 14500s the other day and been running one for a few days in mine. No more preflash and super bright on high. Gets hot fast on high but on med. just gets warm. Low isn't so low anymore but its still not bad. I think the 14500s will be my primary batts. for this light and ill use regular AAs in a pinch. This will be my around the house and overnight roadtrip light.


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## defloyd77 (Apr 27, 2013)

pjandyho said:


> Forget this light. It was once my favorite AA light but it has been problematic all of a sudden. Many here in CPF has encountered either similar or some other problems. Pre-flash, failure to switch modes using batteries other than 14500, unable to reach max output are all the problems I had faced, and this was after sending it to Hong Kong to get it serviced. In fact, I am facing more problems with this light than before sending it in. Utterly disappointing.



Aww man, I have to send mine to HK and already was afraid that my problem with my light every now and then not turning on or only cycling through modes at the low output. I fear since it only happens say 10 percent off the time they'll assume it's fine.


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## pjandyho (Apr 27, 2013)

defloyd77 said:


> Aww man, I have to send mine to HK and already was afraid that my problem with my light every now and then not turning on or only cycling through modes at the low output. I fear since it only happens say 10 percent off the time they'll assume it's fine.


I understand how you feel. Just send it in and see what they say. All the best to you.


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## fredted40x (Apr 28, 2013)

awyeah said:


> That is a shame. I hope that doesn't start happening to my D25C clicky.



Unfortunatly had issues with my new D25C, high would last 16 secs then the light would die completely. Doesnt work at all with the 3.7v batteries.

The service so far has been top however, currently waiting for a new head from Eagletac. They reply really quickly to any issues. Think they may have messed up the qality of these light though.


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## JohnnyB (Apr 28, 2013)

Sorry to hear of everyone's problems. I bought my D25A clicky (XM-L) from goinggear around December 1st. In Feb of this year it started to misbehave (flickring, preflashing) I dis-assembled it and noticed that the factory grease/lube was very dark and it seemed to be everywhere. (I carry the light in my pocket everyday. Maybe the body heat did this?) 

I removed the head and tail sections then cleaned it with a q-tip and denatured alcohol until it was spotless. I then applied a HINT of dielectric grease to all threads and re-assembled. It has been flawless ever since. Maybe this could help some folks. Best of luck to the OP. I really like the light. I hope they turn out to be reliable.


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## kaichu dento (Apr 29, 2013)

JohnnyB said:


> Sorry to hear of everyone's problems. I bought my D25A clicky (XM-L) from goinggear around December 1st. In Feb of this year it started to misbehave (flickring, preflashing) I dis-assembled it and noticed that the factory grease/lube was very dark and it seemed to be everywhere. (I carry the light in my pocket everyday. Maybe the body heat did this?)
> 
> I removed the head and tail sections then cleaned it with a q-tip and denatured alcohol until it was spotless. I then applied a HINT of dielectric grease to all threads and re-assembled. It has been flawless ever since. Maybe this could help some folks. Best of luck to the OP. I really like the light. I hope they turn out to be reliable.


This is what I keep assuming I need to do and it's good to see that it worked in your case, which gives me more incentive to go a head and dive in.


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## lintonindy (Apr 29, 2013)

kaichu dento said:


> This is what I keep assuming I need to do and it's good to see that it worked in your case, which gives me more incentive to go a head and dive in.



I have heard that eagletacs are sorta known for this (needing to make sure all connections are properly cleaned and threads are lubed) to work correctly. I remember reading that in some of the reviews I have studied on eagletac lights. I currently have a D25C ti with the aluminum clicky back, a D25LC2, and a TX25C2 inbound Today! Come on 2:00! My D25C suffered a little of this until I cleaned and lubed the threads/contacts. I guess Eagletac just lets you know when it's time to maintenance your lights by not working correctly. :shakehead Still I have two and another on the way so I do like the brand and lights overall, they are just a little temperamental.


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## Canuck21 (Apr 29, 2013)

This sucks. This one the one light I was looking forward to owning. I guess I'll go with a ZebraLight then.


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## Torpedo (Apr 29, 2013)

Got a D25A2 G2 today in the mail...everything works good. Lets hope it stays that way.


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## defloyd77 (Apr 29, 2013)

pjandyho said:


> I understand how you feel. Just send it in and see what they say. All the best to you.



Thank you. Sent it in earlier today, I never knew how expensive shipping internationally is until now, they better fix it. I llove ET's lights, but their service will either make or break that for me. About how long did it take for your light to be sent back?


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## pjandyho (Apr 30, 2013)

defloyd77 said:


> About how long did it take for your light to be sent back?


I am afraid I did not pay any notice to it. After sending it in I sort of forgot about it until I see the package in my mailbox. I would guesstimate it to be in the ballpark of 3 weeks?


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## wolf413chris (May 11, 2013)

JohnnyB said:


> Sorry to hear of everyone's problems. I bought my D25A clicky (XM-L) from goinggear around December 1st. In Feb of this year it started to misbehave (flickring, preflashing) I dis-assembled it and noticed that the factory grease/lube was very dark and it seemed to be everywhere. (I carry the light in my pocket everyday. Maybe the body heat did this?)
> 
> I removed the head and tail sections then cleaned it with a q-tip and denatured alcohol until it was spotless. I then applied a HINT of dielectric grease to all threads and re-assembled. It has been flawless ever since. Maybe this could help some folks. Best of luck to the OP. I really like the light. I hope they turn out to be reliable.





kaichu dento said:


> This is what I keep assuming I need to do and it's good to see that it worked in your case, which gives me more incentive to go a head and dive in.



curious if you (or anyone else) have an update on any findings after a cleaning. i was really looking forward to getting a d25a.. as my break away from drug store lights, yea im new.

if these issues are related and can be solved by a cleaning, and regular maintenance i would not be turned off. might be fun as a first light, something to get familiar with proper care ect. 

im not enlightened on the subject but it sounds to add up, the dark grease, like that of old oil in a fryer desperate need of changing or your car oil ect, maybe ET just chose a bad lube, or just the small size / heat distrubution takes it toll quickly.


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## kaichu dento (May 11, 2013)

wolf413chris said:


> curious if you (or anyone else) have an update on any findings after a cleaning. i was really looking forward to getting a d25a.. as my break away from drug store lights, yea im new.
> 
> if these issues are related and can be solved by a cleaning, and regular maintenance it would not be turn off. might be fun as a first light, something to get familiar with proper care etc.
> 
> im not enlightened on the subject but it sounds to add up, the dark grease, like that of old oil in a fryer desperate need of changing or your car oil ect, maybe ET just chose a bad lube, or just the small size / heat distribution takes it toll quickly.


Mine starting working properly simply cleaning the threads with a tissue, but I lost it before I could do anymore cleaning using electronics cleaner.

That experience at least gave me confidence to probably buy another one in the future, not to mention the beautiful beam pattern and decent tint, combined with three well balanced levels.


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## chazz (May 16, 2013)

So I bought a ET D25A clicky, before reading enough about it... Mine is the xp-g2 R5 version. (got that for the extra throw, and I did not care about the extra lumens on the xml since I mostly use the lower modes anyway)

The 'preflash' is minimal and only visible when turning the light on in low, and its not much brighter than the lowest setting, whether that be moonlight or low. Most people would probably not notice it unless they were really picky about that type of thing. It does not bother me and is for sure not the most disappointing aspect of this light IMO. 

For me the big downer of this light is the fact that it has visible stroboscopic (PWM like) output on low, medium and moonlight settings. On low and medium it is a fairly high frequency which also includes the nice high pitch sound that I can hear if ambient background noise is quiet. (very annoying to me) The worst setting for visible is moonlight mode (which is one of the main reasons I bought this light) It uses an even lower frequency and the stroboscopic affect is visible just with normal moving of the light. So much for "Constant current regulation (non PWM) for all output modes" (ET Webpage). 

It may not technically be PWM but it might as well be, if it looks like it and sounds like it... 

I would NOT have bought this light if I would have known it was going to be like this. If it were not for that I think I would like the light quite a bit.


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## Serenity (May 16, 2013)

I have an ET D25A Clicky as well, XM-L2 Neutral White version. I have checked for PWM on moonlight before, but couldn't detect it. My phone does show thin horizontal stripes for medium and high though, but not for moonlight and turbo mode. When I take a picture while moving the light quickly, I get a continous stripe though, I don't see the effect that others have posted in another topic.

Now that I listened for it, I do hear the whine on the medium modes and low, but not moonlight, high or turbo. The sounds is louder as the light output is higher. I have to keep the light pretty close to my ear to hear it though, but maybe my hearing is not so good for these frequencies.


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## chazz (May 18, 2013)

So after my last post/rant about the low frequency PWM (like) strobing in moonlight mode, I discovered something interesting, it does not do this when the battery voltage is above ~1.3V but below that it does. (Still has the higher freq pwm in low and med but not in high/turbo or moonlight above 1.3v). 

So this likely explains why some see it and some don't. If you run a Eneloop (or the like) that has nominal 1.2V then this will be more of a problem. 

Just thought others that are bothered by the pwm in moonlight, might benefit from this information. And as a side note, for others that have said their light does not have moonlight mode, they might want to check the directions on how to activate it. It's not on by default.  

Would be curious if others are the same.


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## shelm (May 18, 2013)

i've got pre-flash which reminds me of Quark's pre-flash, and David Chow once explained that it could be called a 'bug' but it's not a defect. it's a natural thing to occur when certain conditions between the electronic parts are fulfilled. so it's not a defect in the sense that something is out of order or broken. maybe comparable to a mini spark at your finger which naturally occurs when you rub your rubber shoes against a certain plastic floor and touch a metallic object. you don't like the spark and 'it should not be there lol' but you would not call the floor, the shoes or the finger "defective". it's a natural or even spontaneous and reproducible process. of course a redesign of the entire circuit with certain anti pre-flash measures would reduce the effect, and on my sample the pre-flash is minimal. i know it's a technical and natural thing of the circuit, not a defect, and so i don't bother. it's a physical side effect of the original circuit design, and nothing of the circuit is broken or defective.

PWM, yes there is PWM depending on whether you're on the lower cycle group or the upper cycle group. It is rather complicated to say in a single sentence, which modes have PWM and which not, because it also depends on the battery and there are so many possibilities of modes. For a detailed analysis of the modes and PWM study the extensive table on *page 19* of the Clicky Ti thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?338693

I prefer my unit, *D25A* Clicky Ti XP-G2 CW, to the *SC52 *. Anyone feel free to continue the discussion in the resourceful Clicky Ti thread and quote me (this post or any other of mine) there. May you question if i do own the SC52


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## reppans (May 18, 2013)

chazz said:


> So after my last post/rant about the low frequency PWM (like) strobing in moonlight mode, I discovered something interesting, it does not do this when the battery voltage is above ~1.3V but below that it does. (Still has the higher freq pwm in low and med but not in high/turbo or moonlight above 1.3v).
> 
> So this likely explains why some see it and some don't. If you run a Eneloop (or the like) that has nominal 1.2V then this will be more of a problem.
> 
> ...



I have 3 samples of the 2012 (Ti/NW/XML) and found variability with the low voltage/PWM thing (also posted on shelm's thread above). One showed moonlight PWM at any voltage, one with about a 1/2 empty Eneloop, and one with a nearly empty Eneloop. The first was given to the Mrs. set with moonmode off, the other two I kinda like and use the PWM as my "battery meter."

I also prefer my D25As to my SC52... The floody XML ~0.3 /2.5 lm modes (by my light meter) hits a real sweet spot for me in the illumination/runtime trade-off that my Quarks also have. Guess I also trust a light more when the manufacturer seems to.


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## papershredder (Jun 11, 2013)

pjandyho said:


> ...sending it to Hong Kong to get it serviced.



Hm. I though they were a USA company. Maybe I should have known better. My brain must have put the "ed" in. From their website:
EAGTAC LLC is found in 2009, Washington, USA.


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## pjandyho (Jun 11, 2013)

papershredder said:


> Hm. I though they were a USA company. Maybe I should have known better. My brain must have put the "ed" in. From their website:
> EAGTAC LLC is found in 2009, Washington, USA.


Eagletac is a US registered company but they are all made in China. Has been so since day one.


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## DHart (Jun 12, 2013)

Recently bought these:

• EagleTac D25A CLICKY XP-G2 R4 NEUTRAL 
IlluminationGear.com $46.99

• EagleTac D25A Clicky Ti Neutral White XM-L LED 
LightJunction.com $70.90

I LOVE the XP-G2 R4 Neutral.... tint is actually warmer than neutral, so I'm not sure if the emitter description is correct, but whatever it is, I love it. Beam is, of course, more focused than the XM-L and gives a nice bit of warm tinted throw. Beautiful beam and tint! I like the X-PG beam. I have enough soft, wide, floody XM-Ls. 

I could live without the Ti D25A, but the simple black D25A Clicky, with the XP-G2 R4, is my new EDC light. Really small and slim for a single AA light. I much prefer it over my SWM V11R, which is a good, but very bulky, heavy light.

Both lights are running fine so far.


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## SFG2Lman (Jun 12, 2013)

had my D25A Ti for a couple months now and its been my EDC from day one, I love it. Runs great on AW 14500 IMRs. Runtime on high is 20-30ish minutes if you have asbestos gloves, but really med and low are perfect for anything long term. I LOVE this light, no issues. I really haven't noticed a pre-flash, but I didn't look that hard for it either. So if I have one, its not noticeable or detracting from the function and form of this light. Highly recommend, just to go against the grain lol.


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## papershredder (Jun 12, 2013)

I've got one coming tomorrow. Titanium. I'm hoping this is the perfect EDC for me. I've got some 2xAAA's, but they're too long. If I like it, I'll probably have a hard time resisting grabbing another, "just in case."
EagleTac does a titanium version at the beginning of every year, right?


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## defloyd77 (Jul 2, 2013)

Well after 9 weeks and a day, I finally have my light back. So far so good, but due to the nature of the problem I had, I won't say with confidence that it's for sure fixed until I've played with it a bunch and put some batteries through it.


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## Lite_me (Jul 3, 2013)

Just some D25A info... I just received an XM-L2 U2 Neutral from IlluminationGear. I also have the older XM-L model, also in neutral. This newer one is noticeably brighter in all modes. Tint on both of them lean towards the warmer side of neutral I'd say. The XM-L2 U2 maybe slightly the warmer of the two. They're just fine by me. 

What I do like about the L2 one though is the low on a 14500. (I'm not much for moon modes.) Low on it is about 50-60 lumens I'd guess. Perfect for most tasks. Where the org XM-L one is only around 10 or so. And that's on both Eneloops and 14500s. I always had to click it twice to get it up to something useful. I didn't like that. 

Comparing with other lights, the next Med mode on the 14500 looks to be around 160 lumens. Again, darn near perfect if you need something brighter for a quick task. And Hi is way bright!

So I'm really liking this new XM-L2 model. Really love the small size, very light w/14500, nice clip, all the output modes, tint, mouth-able, and I don't even know it's there when clipped to my pocket.


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## Creezy (Jul 9, 2013)

Lite_me said:


> Just some D25A info... I just received an XM-L2 U2 Neutral from IlluminationGear. I also have the older XM-L model, also in neutral. This newer one is noticeably brighter in all modes. Tint on both of them lean towards the warmer side of neutral I'd say. The XM-L2 U2 maybe slightly the warmer of the two. They're just fine by me.
> 
> What I do like about the L2 one though is the low on a 14500. (I'm not much for moon modes.) Low on it is about 50-60 lumens I'd guess. Perfect for most tasks. Where the org XM-L one is only around 10 or so. And that's on both Eneloops and 14500s. I always had to click it twice to get it up to something useful. I didn't like that.
> 
> ...




I'm interested in purchasing a standard aluminum D25A XML-U2 Cool and just to clarify a couple of things. You state you have the XML-L2 U2 neutral. Isn't the U2 cool and the T6 neutral, which do you have? Also do you have the Ti or the standard black aluminum? I thought the aluminum model on 14500's just went to direct drive with no other modes. You state you get a low, med, and high on 14500's. If that's the case I like it all the better. I wouldn't have any use for a moonlight mode anyway. If this light had a low 50-60, med 160, and high 500-600 on 14500's that would be fine for me. Thanks for any reply's


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## Lite_me (Jul 9, 2013)

Creezy said:


> I'm interested in purchasing a standard aluminum D25A XML-U2 Cool and just to clarify a couple of things. You state you have the XML-L2 U2 neutral. Isn't the U2 cool and the T6 neutral, which do you have? Also do you have the Ti or the standard black aluminum? I thought the aluminum model on 14500's just went to direct drive with no other modes. You state you get a low, med, and high on 14500's. If that's the case I like it all the better. I wouldn't have any use for a moonlight mode anyway. If this light had a low 50-60, med 160, and high 500-600 on 14500's that would be fine for me. Thanks for any reply's


Hi Creezy: Yes, you are correct. The XM-L2 cool is a U2 bin. My bad. The box that my neutral XM-L2 came in says U2 on it, but I just noticed there is a light mark through the U2 on it. I thought it was just a scratch. They reuse the cool boxes and just re-sticker or re-mark them somehow. Many brands do this. So yeah, my neutral is a T6 bin.

I have the standard black aluminum models. 

The early 2012 models of the D25 series did go into direct drive on a 14500. Some later 2012s were updated to retain output modes. 

I also have a late vintage 2012 D25A XM-L neutral that also retains modes, but the low remains low, even on a 14500. I think I stated that above in an earlier post. 

Yes, my new 2013 D25A XM-L2 T6 neutral does retain modes on a 14500. And, low appears to be 50-60 lumens - med about 160 ish, and high ... 350 plus I'd guess. 

On an eneloop, it retains the low 'moon' mode around 11 lumens, I think it is. And goes up from there. The actual specs are available.

So, if your looking for one that does the 50-60 lumens on low on 14500 and retains the modes, just make sure you get one with an XM-L*2* and that should assure you you're getting a 2013 model.


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## defloyd77 (Jul 27, 2013)

Well I've had my light back for 25 days now and I am happy to say it's been 100% reliable. Wish I knew what was wrong with it.

I'm really loving this light now and I think I'm glad I got the XP-G2 version over the XM-L2 version. I admit, I was bummed out to find out that a week after I ordered my G2, the L2 versions were available for purchase, but once I compared specs, the G2 seems to be the sweet spot for use with 1 AA cell. You only gain 20 lumens, but comparing the specs on ET's site, the XM-L2 U2 version is 800 lux and the XP-G S2 1200 lux (no lux specs on the XP-G2.) That's only about 15 percent more lumens, but 40 percent less lux (more for G2.) My advice for anyone wanting to get one of these for AA* use, focus on beam pattern preference, the XP-G2 is pretty floody in it's own right, but if you want a really floody light, go for the XM-L2.

*NOTE: I don't consider 14500 cells to be AA's even though they are the same size, what I say applies to those who aren't planning on using 14500 cells.


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## N_N_R (Sep 21, 2013)

Hi, guys, I used the search function of my browser, but couldn't find the answer to this: does this light have a momentary-on function or click it fully for it to turn on? Thanks.


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## shelm (Sep 21, 2013)

it's a reverse clicky


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## N_N_R (Sep 21, 2013)

Thanks


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## jimboutilier (Sep 21, 2013)

Wow, reading this thread would likely deter me from trying an Eagletac D25A clicky if it was a new light I was considering.

It's interesting how different peoples experiences can be. I've accumulated several (XML, XML2, XPG2) D25A's over the past couple years and have had such a positive experience that this is my favorite EDC light to date. It's one that I would not hesitate to recommend to others with high praise. Maybe I've just been lucky or my usage patterns or priorities are different but I think this is a terrific light. 

I'm not trying to discount or dispute the experiences of others, but rather to share not all experiences are the same. For instance on the subject of preflash - it was not something I had experienced in any of my D25s before today when I experimented with various modes and battery types to try and replicate the issues I saw in this thread. 

What I found is that my typical usage pattern does not experience preflash. I mostly use 14500s and preflash never happens in any of my lights with these cells. I also found that I use the standard brightness modes and again preflash does not happen in any of my lights with any cell type unless I switch to the moonlight mode. Even in moonlight mode it only happens with some cell types and only at the lowest brightness setting (where there is sometimes a preflash that looks like the lowest standard mode brightness before it reverts to the moonlight brightness). If I was using primary Lithiums (my second most used battery type) my two most recent lights did not experience preflash but the older one would at the lowest setting in moonlight mode. All three of my lights would preflash at the lowest setting in moonlight mode with Alkalines or Eneloops. 

I also found that that all three of my lights had limited 14500 support. All of them supported the three standard brightness settings (at somewhat elevated levels). But none seemed to support the moonlight modes or the difference was so subtle I could not see it. The low is still low enough for most of my uses but I would prefer better regulation for low/med/high that match other cells and higher output only on turbo (head tight). 

Given voltage and/or current seem to impact these issues, different brands, charge levels, and chemistries of batteries may change the outcomes. I used fresh Duracell Alkalines, Sanyo Eneloops, Energiser L91s and ICR 14500's. 

This may not be definitive as I only have a few samples and did limited experimentation, but I can definitely see where some folks would experience preflash and others wouldn't without it being an inconsistency issue with individual lights. 

Even with limited 14500 support and the preflash issue, the Eagletac D25A Clicky is still my favorite EDC light.


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## Lite_me (Sep 21, 2013)

jimboutilier said:


> Even with limited 14500 support and the preflash issue, the Eagletac D25A Clicky is still my favorite EDC light.


Me too.

I have 2, and just ordered another. I'm grabbing a few now before they are discontinued or I lose em or something. The size. output, and versatility is gonna be hard to top, at least for awhile, for what I desire in an EDC.


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## hatman (Sep 22, 2013)

My D25A clicky is a 2012 version XM-L NW. On a 14500 it only has high or strobe. The high lasts a total of 20 minutes or so although the heat prevents keeping it on for more than 5 minutes straight.

I love this light as long as I don't use it.

Here's what I mean by that: I pocket-EDC my 25A year-around as an emergency or backup light. During the winter, I keep a larger light in a coat pocket and that's what I actually use.

With 14500s, the 25A is great for showing off to friends and office mates, who are amazed at what comes out of this tiny tyke.

But I was curious, wanted to get more use out of it and finally bought some Panasonic eneloops and a charger. 

The eneloops work great on my travel pocket radio, BTW. On the D25A, I finally have my modes back.

The trouble is, output is no better than mediocre. I have plenty of lights with more output than this, including my new ZL SC-52W (on 14500s, so the comparison with eneloops is unfair. But, hey, the 52W doesn't get nearly as hot.)

So I've gone back to using 14500s in my 25A. It's still great for showing off and the lightest, most comfortable light I have for pocket-EDCing. But it will never be anything more than a backup light for me.

I've looked at the specs on the newer model D25A clickies, none of which appear to be in stock in neutral. They are spec'ed for higher output but I'm not sure how much I would gain over my older model using 14500s.

I'd be most interested in opinions from those who have and use the newer version.


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## Lite_me (Sep 22, 2013)

hatman said:


> I'd be most interested in opinions from those who have and use the newer version.


Did you read my post #49 above? My 2013 XM-L2 retains modes on a 14500... although low is a bit high for some.


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## hatman (Sep 22, 2013)

Lite_me said:


> Did you read my post #49 above? My 2013 XM-L2 retains modes on a 14500... although low is a bit high for some.



Yes, thanks.

To clarify: more useful to me means more lumens than my version on eneloops or 14500s -- and the ability to stay on longer than 20 minutes.


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## jimboutilier (Sep 22, 2013)

hatman said:


> Yes, thanks.
> 
> To clarify: more useful to me means more lumens than my version on eneloops or 14500s -- and the ability to stay on longer than 20 minutes.



The newer versions are 15-20% brighter on a given power source. Not quite up to the class leading SC52 on standard cells but closer. And with modes being back on a 14500 you can get much longer run times in terms of both battery capacity and heat. You can also get more brightness (lux) at the expense of some lumens by choosing the XPG2 version (1200 lux vs 800)

Also so remember the SC52 is a bit more sophisticated and only has a one minute burst of its brightest light before it starts a step down process to much more typical levels to reduce heat and power consumption. There's no such thing as a free lunch. Tiny lights get hotter for a given brightness, and won't have the capacity or output of larger lights. 

You might also consider what I do - keep a 14500 in the light but carry an L91 (or Eneloop) as a spare. I do that with most of my EDC lights. That way I have maximum brightness available routinely, but also have maximum duration as a backup.


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## SCEMan (Sep 22, 2013)

hatman said:


> My D25A clicky is a 2012 version XM-L NW. On a 14500 it only has high or strobe. The high lasts a total of 20 minutes or so although the heat prevents keeping it on for more than 5 minutes straight.



I had a 2012 D25A Ti XM-L and on 14500s I had High/Strobe or a 40-60 lumen low. You have to select the Moonlight set to get the lower level. Otherwise you'll only have High or Strobe as you've mentioned. At lease mine worked reliably that way...



jimboutilier said:


> You can also get more brightness (lux) at the expense of some lumens by choosing the XPG2 version (1200 lux vs 800)



I believe you meant; more throw (lux) at the expense of brightness (lumens).


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## jimboutilier (Sep 22, 2013)

SCEMan said:


> I believe you meant; more throw (lux) at the expense of brightness (lumens).



Actually I didn't but should have explained better. Lumens are a complex measure of volume that we perceive even more poorly than we perceive simple intensity. So most people more closely associate intensity and brightness, although it may not be technically correct. I have 250 lumen lights that have greater intensity than 500 lumen lights and most folks would call the 250 lumen lights "brighter" when comparing spots on a wall or shingling them at someone. 

Tiny EDC lights can't always put out the volumes we would like (power consumption and heat dissipation getting in the way). So sometimes it's a good compromise to sacrifice some volume for some intensity. Again, most folks would describe the 174 lumen 1200lux XP-G2 D25A as brighter than the 200 lumen 800 lux version. This is difference is multiplied using 14500s. 

Hence my use of "brightness" which most folks associate with intensity rather than "throw" which most folks associate with distance. Sorry for any confusion.


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## SCEMan (Sep 22, 2013)

jimboutilier said:


> Tiny EDC lights can't always put out the volumes we would like (power consumption and heat dissipation getting in the way). So sometimes it's a good compromise to sacrifice some volume for some intensity. Again, most folks would describe the 174 lumen 1200lux XP-G2 D25A as brighter than the 200 lumen 800 lux version. This is difference is multiplied using 14500s.
> Hence my use of "brightness" which most folks associate with intensity rather than "throw" which most folks associate with distance. Sorry for any confusion.



That's a good explanation of the limitations of small diameter lights. :thumbsup:
I guess I'm one of the folks that find the D25A XM-L2 brighter than the XP-G2 using 14500s. But then, I want a "wall of light" in an EDC and find the XP-G2 hotspot less useful at lower levels and for close-up work. All depends on what your needs are for an EDC...


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## mactavish (Sep 22, 2013)

Nice post "SCEMan", everyone's needs or desires are different. My logic here, is I bought a DQG AA in warm LED, and I like the color a lot, however it is current limited and even using a 14500, the output in lumens is the same as an Eneloop AA, though of course it lasts longer. My main interest at this point in my newest "addiction" was to explore the "direct drive" lights. While confusing to me, my short list was the Zeno EOS V3, and the L3 illumination L10. For now I have discounted the L10 as I have a bunch of "twistys", the Xeno reviews were not too great here, seems there were a bunch of unresolved issues etc., and it is longer then the EagleTac. So I revisited the EagleTac's. Lots of options in LED's, which is great, but again, confusing. 

Since I bought a new "Rofis JR30 XP-G2" just two weeks a go, I figure I don't need another 210 lumen G2 LED bulb, and the specs for 14500 batteries is almost 2x the lumens. I believe it's the same LED as my Fenix PD22, same output. So I was still interested in something that could direct drive the LED, to really see how hard these LED's can be driven, even for short periods, pushing the envelope so to speak.

In deciding which LED to order for the EagleTac, while I like the look of the "warmer" bulbs, in my case I was looking for that EXTRA output, even with the downside of shorter run times, and heat. Seems the 2013 models give you 200 seconds of "direct drive" TURBO OUTPUT, on the 14500's batteries and good regulated output on all the other modes. I also decided that it makes sense for me, to try the latest LED technology of the XM-L2 U2, spec wise the brightness offering to date, but only in the "cool" LED option. So I just placed an order for one of these. I went for the max lumen output available today, in a really small sized light, I only hope that there is not too much "green" tint, from what I have read here, it's a decent "white" output, I'll see. Going Gear had 2 left of this LED model when I placed my order today.


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## jimboutilier (Sep 22, 2013)

SCEMan said:


> That's a good explanation of the limitations of small diameter lights. :thumbsup:
> I guess I'm one of the folks that find the D25A XM-L2 brighter than the XP-G2 using 14500s. But then, I want a "wall of light" in an EDC and find the XP-G2 hotspot less useful at lower levels and for close-up work. All depends on what your needs are for an EDC...



Thanks! I struggle with the same thing and have both the XML2 and XPG2 versions. The XML definitely puts out more light - magnified on 14500. But the XPG has more intensity - again magnified with the 14500. I expect most folks would choose the XML. But I want a specific level of tactical intensity in my EDC lights even using conventional cells so mostly carry the XPG2. It's spill is adequate if a bit less convenient. For EDC use I mostly use the lowest setting anyway. I'd love to see full 14500 support in future versions so only turbo output was increased and the remaining normal and moonlight mode were available and the same as regular cells.


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## SCEMan (Sep 22, 2013)

jimboutilier said:


> I'd love to see full 14500 support in future versions so only turbo output was increased and the remaining normal and moonlight mode were available and the same as regular cells.


Wouldn't that be nice! That's the one benefit my Quark QP2L-X has when running a 14500 (in an AA body), the moonlight and other levels are unchanged.


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## creyc (Sep 26, 2013)

What's the deal with this light? I always see people complaining it lacks true 14500 support, but the 14500 I use almost everyday in my 2013 neutral white model suggests otherwise. Have they improved these in 2013? Or is my light just 'special' in that it works perfectly on NiMH or Li-ion, Alkaline, lithium primary, you name it! 

I haven't exactly baby'd this light either, I carry it every day and have had nearly (estimate) 50-80 battery charges through it. Sometimes a few batteries a day! Are these lights still giving people problems?


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## jimboutilier (Sep 26, 2013)

I believe that in late 2012 better support for 14500's was added and that continued in 2013. Before then using a 14500 turned it into a single mode light - always on high. 

The support is not full as you loose moonlight mode levels and normal levels are somewhat brighter than with other cells. Also the heat generation is significant on high or even medium and there is no thermal step down so its possible the light could fail or be degraded if used on high too long. So still improvements could be made. 

That said, this is a terrific light and many folks could be quite happy using 14500's with it.


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## Cityus (Sep 27, 2013)

DHart said:


> Recently bought these:
> 
> • EagleTac D25A CLICKY XP-G2 R4 NEUTRAL
> IlluminationGear.com $46.99
> ...



you should sell me the Ti then


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## smc2010416 (Jan 6, 2014)

Hi
My d25a nw has a pre flash when you first turn the light on.. What could be the cause of this? 

Thanks


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## Lite_me (Jan 6, 2014)

smc2010416 said:


> Hi
> My d25a nw has a pre flash when you first turn the light on.. What could be the cause of this?
> 
> Thanks


Did you do a search for it?

Put 'pre flash' in the search box near the top of the page. You'll fine your answer.


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## smc2010416 (Jan 6, 2014)

Lite_me said:


> Did you do a search for it?
> 
> Put 'pre flash' in the search box near the top of the page. You'll fine your answer.



Found the related topics.

Thank you very much.


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## 5S8Zh5 (Dec 22, 2014)

_____


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