# Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Review: VIDEO, RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOT



## selfbuilt (Jul 8, 2012)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual.*

Welcome to the new "mystery magic lights" from Nitecore, the SENS series.  







Following up on the recent launch of The Explorer Series, Nitecore is quick to release this new accelerometer-equipped series of lights. The SENS lights use the angle/tilt of the light to adjust output. I am sure you all have a lot of questions about how that works in practice, so here we go … 

*Manufacturer Specifications:* 

*Common Specs:*

LED: CREE XP-G R5
High efficiency circuit
3 brightness levels - Lo, Med, Hi – in regular brightness control
Continuously-variable output through active dimming system with auto-adjust control
Soft turn on mode and low illumination for everyday usage
Convenient one-handed operation
Broad voltage circuit, compatible with primary or rechargeable Li-ion batteries
Reverse polarity protection
Equipped with an integrated lens
Waterproof and submersible: IPX-8, 2m
Constructed from aero grade aluminum alloy
HA-III military grade hard-anodized
Specially-made rhombic knurling for better grip
Tailstand function
Accessories: unknown at present time
*SENS Mini*

Maximum Output: 170 lumens
Powered by 1xCR2 battery
Output/runtime (1xCR2): Hi 170lm / 1hr – Mid 50lm / 4hr – Lo 20lm / 14hr
Peak beam intensity: 1200
Beam distance: 69
Bezel diameter: 19.8mm, Tail diameter: 18.5mm
Length: 57mm
Weight: 19.4g (without battery)
MSRP: $32
*SENS CR*

Maximum Output: 190 lumens
Powered by 1xCR123A battery or 1x16340 (RCR) battery
Output/runtime (1xCR123A): Hi 190lm / 2hr – Med 60lm / 6hr 30min – Lo 20lm / 27hr
Peak beam intensity: 1450cd
Beam distance: 76m
Bezel diameter: 19.8mm, Tail diameter: 19.8mm
Length: 64mm
Weight: 23.8g (without battery)
MSRP: $32
*SENS AA*

Maximum Output: 120 lumens
Powered by 1xAA (NiMH/Alkaline/L91) or 1x14500 _(UPDATE March 2014: according to the current SENS AA product sheet, 3.7V Li-ion 14500 are no longer supported)_
Output/runtime (1xNiMH AA): Hi 120lm / 2hr – Med 20lm / 12hr – Lo 6lm / 60hr
Peak beam intensity: 700cd
Beam distance: 53m
Bezel diameter: 19.8mm, Tail diameter: 17.5mm
Length: 81mm
Weight: 26g (without battery)
MSRP: $32
_*UPDATE April 2014*: The current manuals for the SENS AA and CR models no longer support 1x 3.7V Li-ion (i.e., 14500 or RCR are listed as "banned"). I don't know if Nitecore has actually changed anything in the circuit, but these Li-ion cells are no longer supported._

My SENS samples came without retail packaging – only a small split ring was included with each one. I do not know what retail packaging will look like. I received the SENS CR (1xCR123A/RCR), SENS Mini (1xCR2), and SENS AA (1xAA).

I will focus on the SENS CR here for the general build discussion, updating with additional pics from the other models when aspects differ.










In keeping with their twisty design, the SENS lights are fairly small for their respective classes. I will be providing detailed size and weight comparisons/pics in the detailed sections on each model – scroll down for details.


















The SENS series looks a lot like the earlier EZ series of twisty lights from Nitecore – quite petite, with visible brass heatsinks. The SENS CR, Mini and AA all have the same diameter head, although the battery tube is bit narrower on the SENS AA. This differs slightly from the early EZ series lights, which had smaller heads on the CR2 and AA versions. Scroll down for the detailed comparison pics for their respective classes.

My samples have a matte black finish, with no obvious chips or damage on the bodies. There is knurling on the body tube and head, but I don't find it very aggressive – grip is OK, but could be better. Identification labels on the body are clear and bright against the black background. 

Overall body wall thickness is on the thin-side, but the lights still feel solid (good weight in the hand with batteries installed). Screw threads are rather fine, as is common on twisty lights. I found the action slightly stiff, but can be improved with lube. There isn't that much play in the threads on my samples.










The SENS series lights use an optic to produce their beam (i.e., no reflector). The overall optic size and appearance is similar to the XP-E-equipped Fenix E11, as shown below. This should result in a decent hotspot/corona with minimal spill (i.e., output gradually fading away from the hotspot).









Fenix E11 on the left, SENS AA on the right

Scroll down for specific beamshots of each model, relative to its class counterparts.

And now, the most distinctive part – the user interface is based on a built-in accelerometer that can adjust output based on tilt angle. 

*User Interface*

The SENS series lights are built around a traditional twisty interface – tighten for on, loosen for off. The lights come on in a graded way (i.e., quickly ramp up from dark to the light, rather just jump to specific levels).

The lights actually have two distinct mechanisms for controlling output – a "regular brightness control" (i.e., constant output) and an "active dimming technology" (i.e., continuously-variable).

The default "brightness control" mechanism is illustrated in this cartoon from Nitecore:






You get constant output at one of three defined levels (Lo, Med and Hi). You set the constant output mode by adjusting the original angle of the light _at activation_. That is, if a light is angled parallel to the ground (i.e., pointed straight ahead), the light come on in Hi. If you are partially angled down, the lights come on in Med. If you are pointed down to a greater degree (or straight down), the lights come on in Lo. 

Critical to how this mode functions, _the accelerometer sensor shuts off immediately after activation._ So you can now wave the light around, and it remains locked in your pre-set output chosen at activation. 

Basically, what is novel here is the means to select the Lo, Med, Hi – the actual levels remain constant during use, like all other lights. If you want to change the output level, you have to cycle the light off-on at a new initial angle to choose a different level. 

The other option is the "active dimming technology" mode, where you can dynamically alter output in a continuously-variable way, based on the current angle of the light. In other words, the accelerometer sensor remains active during continuous use, constantly re-adjusting the output based on the current angle. oo:

To activate this mode, turn the light on pointed straight up. As you lower the light, the output will drop in a continuously-variable way between parallel to the ground (Max) and perpendicular straight-down (Min).

Note there is a slight lag as the accelerometer sensor responds, and the change in output is gradual (especially when lowering the output). Just as when you turn the light on in the default "brightness control" mode, there is a graded response as the light changes modes during angling (i.e., no abrupt changes).

There are no strobe/SOS modes on the SENS series.

The Nitecore documentation is not very specific on what range of tilt angles produce the four possible outcomes upon activation (i.e., the three defined outputs or the continuously-variable option). To help you out, I have actually determined the relative angles using a protractor on my samples. Below is a graph of relative angle and output mode, using the same orientation as the earlier Nitecore cartoon (i.e., top of the image is up, far left or right is parallel to the ground).






The white area at the top of the graph is what produces the continuously-variable mode (i.e., anything higher a ~45 degree up-angle at activation will enter this mode). The constant Hi mode is produced by anything between a ~45 degree up-angle and a ~5 degree down-angle. The constant Med mode is produced by anything between a ~5 degree down-angle to a ~45 degree down-angle. The constant Lo mode is produced by anything greater than ~45 degree down-angle. 

To make the above clearer in practice, please see my detailed examination of the build and user interface in my video overview: 



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – the lights appear to be current-controlled.  

Due to twisty interface, there is no standby mode to worry about – the lights are not drawing any power when off.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lighbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

_*UPDATE April 2014*: The current manuals for the SENS AA and CR models no longer support 1x 3.7V Li-ion (i.e., 14500 or RCR are listed as "banned"). I don't know if Nitecore has actually changed anything in the circuit, but these Li-ion cells are no longer supported._

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*SENS CR Review*









From left to right: Duracell CR123A; Nitecore SENS CR, EZ 123; Eagletac D25C Clicky; Foursevens Mini 123; Lumintop ED10; Zebralight SC30; , V11R, C10R.

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Nitecore SENS CR*: Weight: 23.4g, Length: 65.5mm, Width (bezel): 19.8mm
*Nitecore EC1*: Weight 43.0g, Length: 68.6mm, Width (bezel): 26.1mm
*Nitecore EZ123*: Weight 26.2g, Length: 68.8mm, Width (bezel): 19.0mm
*Jetbeam BC10*: Weight: 46.6g, Length: 90.3mm, Width (bezel): 23.2mm
*Lumintop ED10*: Weight: 21.5g, Length: 70.4mm, Width (bezel): 20.7mm

The SENS CR is clearly tiny for the class. 

*Beamshots:*

All lights are on Turbo/Max on 1x AW protected RCR in the first set of panels, followed by 1xCR123A in the second. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































And now on primary 3V 1xCR123A:

















































As you can see, the optic on SENS CR is different from the more common reflector style. The SENS CR has fairly bright hotspot and corona, but with gradual drop-off of spill as you move away from it (i.e., a less defined spillbeam edge). This is common on lights with this sort of optic. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.











_*UPDATE April 2014*: The current manuals for the SENS AA and CR models no longer support 1x 3.7V Li-ion (i.e., 14500 or RCR are listed as "banned"). I don't know if Nitecore has actually changed anything in the circuit, but these Li-ion cells are no longer supported._

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*



























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*SENS Mini*









From left to right: Panasonic CR2; Nitecore SENS Mini, EZ-CR2; Foursevens Mini CR2.

*Nitecore SENS Mini:* Weight: 21.6g, Length: 58.8mm, Width (bezel): 19.8mm
*Nitecore EZCR2*: Weight 22.5g, Length: 60.7mm, Width (bezel): 17.5mm
*Foursevens Mini CR2*: Weight 15.7g, Length: 54.0mm, Width (bezel): 19.1mm

*Beamshots:*


















*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.






*Output/Runtime Comparison:*










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*SENS AA Review*













From left to right: Duracell AA; Nitecore SENS AA, EZAA; Rofis ER12; Nitcore D10; Foursevens Mini AA; Zebralight SC51; Sunwayman V11R+extender.

*Nitecore SENS AA*: Weight: 26.1g, Length: 82.7mm, Width (bezel): 19.8mm
*Nitecore EZAA*: Weight 20.9g, Length: 85.0mm, Width (bezel) 16.6mm
*Rofis ER12*: Wright: 35.5g, Length: 96.2mm, Width (bezel): 18.6mm
*Tiablo E2A*: Weight: 45.7g, Length: 101.2mm, Width (bezel): 19.9mm
*Xeno E03:*: Weight: 48.1g, Length 96.7mm, Width (bezel): 21.5mm 
*Xtar WK25B*: Weight 42.9g, Length: 102.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm

*Beamshots:*

All lights are on Max output on Sanyo Eneloop AA NiMH. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 





























































*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.











_*UPDATE April 2014*: The current manuals for the SENS AA and CR models no longer support 1x 3.7V Li-ion (i.e., 14500 or RCR are listed as "banned"). I don't know if Nitecore has actually changed anything in the circuit, but these Li-ion cells are no longer supported._

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*

































_*UPDATE March 2014*: according to the current SENS AA product sheet, 3.7V Li-ion 14500 are no longer supported. I have left the 14500 runtimes above up for historical comparison for the original SENS release._

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*General Output Comments:*

Please refer back to the individual light reviews above for detailed tables comparing output and throw for each light, relative to its respective class.

One general conclusion that I can draw is that the reported peak beam intensity and distance measures seem accurate, for all lights, for the identified battery type. 

To better allow you to compare output at all levels on all lights, below are detailed tables for each model, on all supported battery types. I have indicated the manufacturer's specs for the identified cell type.

Note that Min refers to absolute lowest light level available in continuously-variable mode. The Max output in this mode was always the same as the Hi level in the regular brightness control mode.
















_*UPDATE March 2014*: according to the current SENS AA product sheet, 3.7V Li-ion 14500 are no longer supported. I have left the 14500 column above up for historical comparison for the original SENS release._

Again, in general terms, Nitecore seems to be pretty accurate in their relative output lumen reporting, just as I observed for most of the Explorer series lights. :thumbsup:

As you would expect, output levels are higher across the board on 1x 3.7V Li-ion sources. Although relative levels are maintained, there is little difference between Med and Hi.

*General Runtime Comments:*

Note that I haven't tried to test the continuously variable levels (as I would have to mount both my lightbox and light at an angle). So my comments below refer the "regular brightness control" Lo/Med/Hi pre-set levels.

On the pre-set output levels, the SENS lights are all well-regulated on all primary battery sources, at all levels tested (i.e. very flat stabilization typically). :twothumbs 1x3.7V Li-ion regulation is typically less stable, at least initially.

Output/runtime efficiency seems very good relative to the XP-G R5 class – about what you would expect for good current-controlled lights.  One stand-out here is the SENS Mini, which seems to be exceptionally efficient for the class (but I have few lights to compare to). 

My results are also very close to the report ANSI FL-1 reported runtimes for each light (note that the ANSI FL-1 standard is time to 10% initial output). 

It's nice to see all the output, throw and runtime specs are pretty accurate for these lights. :thumbsup:

*Potential Issues for the SENS series*

Thread action can be a bit stiff, and the lights may be hard to use single-handed (depending on the size of your hands).

While I like the gradual ramp up or down in brightness, the lights can be a bit slow to respond in ramping down in the continuously-variable mode (while comparatively quick in ramping up).

It takes some getting used to the continuously-variable adjustment based on tilt angle, but this happens faster than you might expect. In any case, there is always the regular brightness-control mode (i.e., three defined levels, with accelerometer turned off after activation).

I don't know what final packaging will include, but there doesn't seem to be any easy way to secure a pocket clip to these lights.

My SENS AA has to be tightened fairly tightly to activate. Twisty lights always have the potential to be battery crushers, so you should periodically check your cells.

My SENS CR has battery rattle when not fully tightened and in use.

_UPDATE April 2014: according to the current SENS AA and CR product sheets, 3.7V Li-ion 14500/RCR are no longer supported._

*Preliminary Observations*

The SENS series is definitely unique – I haven't reviewed an accelerometer-based control interface before. oo:

Build-wise, the series is actually fairly similar to the earlier Nitecore EZ series – except for the more consistent head size, and the use of an optic instead of a reflector. Fans of the familiar twisty interface (and tiny overall size that it allows) will find a lot that looks familiar here.

But the user interface is definitely _terra nova_. Like most here, I was skeptical initially of how this sort of interface could work in practice. The short answer is that is does, but it requires some practice.

Nitecore was wise to provide two options to control the light – both methods have their advantages and disadvantages.

Let's start with the continuously-variable output (i.e., activate the light pointed up, for continual sensor control). I was surprised at how quickly I could get use to using the light this way. If it dimmed or increased in brightness too much upon angling, a slight angle change restored the desired level of output. It is kind of like how you adjust how you point a constant-output light – to control the amount light falling on your target, you can move between the bright hotspot and the dimmer spill. It is much the same here – angle-control quickly becomes part of your innate handling regimen, and you aren't even consciously-aware you are doing it. 

The one thing missing in this mode is the ability to "lock" the light at a given level temporarily. This would be especially helpful for when you wanted to look down but maintain a higher brightness (e.g., going down stairs, looking down over an edge, etc.). I am generally a fan of visually-linear control rings for this reason – I can dynamic dial the light up or down, and it stays put once I stop turning the ring. Perhaps some sort of front-mounted clicky control could work well with this technology (e.g., half-press to hold a level, or use a half-press to activate the sensor, etc.).

Of course, you have the alternate option – the "regular brightness control" – where you start the light in one of three initial output states and it stays "locked" for the duration of the on-cycle. While this is a useful option, I would still like to have the flexibility of taking advantage of both features simultaneously (i.e., a variable lock, without having to turn off and re-position). 

I am not sure why there are only three levels available in the regular brightness control mode (i.e., as opposed to a continuously variable range of initial activations). But the relative efficiency of the three levels is excellent, well in keeping with other good current-control lights at these levels.  

Originally, I thought I would use this regular brightness control mode the most, but I found it a bit inconvenient given the small size of the lights (and my rather long fingers). Except for the 1xAA version, I typically needed to use two hands to activate the lights (i.e., I can't easily grip both the body and twist the head one-handed on the CR or Mini, while still accurately pointing at my target during activation). And having to hold the light two-handed defeats the whole purpose of a tilt-sensor – I need to artificially hold the light at a specific angle to get the output I want. This is just a personal problem I find with small twisties in my hands. :shrug:

Another option for Nitecore to consider is bundling the sensor with a clicky interface. A typical single tailcap clicky may be problematic, as that would require an overhand tactical grip during activation (which is probably more likely to produce a down-angle than under-hand carry). So I can see why they went with this twisty option in the SENS series. Maybe a dual switch design, where a tailcap clicky turns the light on, and a front-mounted switch controls whether the accelerometer is active? That could give you the temporary "lock" option I would like to see.

I do like the functionality the accelerometer-control interface provides. It is a novel approach, and one that worked consistently in my testing. You quicky adapt to using this novel interface. I think it would be interesting to see it implemented in other physical builds and control mechanisms – especially in a larger set of lights that fit more comfortably in my hands for single-handed use. :wave:

_*UPDATE April 2014*: The current manuals for the SENS AA and CR models no longer support 1x 3.7V Li-ion (i.e., 14500 or RCR are listed as "banned"). I don't know if Nitecore has actually changed anything in the circuit, but these Li-ion cells are no longer supported._

----

SENS Series Mini, CR, AA supplied by NiteCore for review.


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## tobrien (Jul 8, 2012)

spectacular review, thank you!


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## Draven451 (Jul 8, 2012)

Selfbuilt,

Another excellent review! Interesting light for sure and a unique feature not seen before


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## jasonck08 (Jul 9, 2012)

Nice review seems like a similar UI to the Maglite XL100.


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## fyrstormer (Jul 9, 2012)

Interesting idea. The EC/EA series looks more compelling to me, though. For a basic twisty, I still don't think anything tops the Aeon/Nautilus.


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## GordoJones88 (Jul 9, 2012)

Can you test how well the Active Dimming Technology works when flapping your arms up and down in the air like a chicken. 

A video would be great. Thanks.


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## Norm (Jul 9, 2012)

Another fantastic selfbuilt review, if I had any criticism at all, is that a contrasting background would make the video easier to watch.

Norm


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## Bwolcott (Jul 9, 2012)

Great review!, but I really dont like the auto adjust part I hope other flashlight companys dont start doing that


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## selfbuilt (Jul 9, 2012)

jasonck08 said:


> Nice review seems like a similar UI to the Maglite XL100.


Yes, a good point - the XL100 pioneered an accelerometer-based UI. But I understand how it was applied was different from here (I have not handled a XL100 personally).



GordoJones88 said:


> Can you test how well the Active Dimming Technology works when flapping your arms up and down in the air like a chicken. A video would be great. Thanks.


No need - the answer is clear: the lights would stay on at full brightness the whole time.

Anything higher than a 5% down angle is full brightness (i.e. the top half of your swing would be Max). And the lights are slow to ramp down in the Active Dimming Technology mode. So if you swing your arms fast enough, the light would stay in Hi through the whole arc. 



Norm said:


> Another fantastic selfbuilt review, if I had any criticism at all, is that a contrasting background would make the video easier to watch.


Yes, the background is not ideal - but that's because it is the corner of my working desk (the same location I use for all my detailed light pics). I have a simple setup with my camera phone on a stand - not very high tech, I'm afraid. :shrug:

I have just adjusted the brightness and constrast through YouTube, should help with visibility. It may take a few mins before the processing is finished and the adjusted video shows up.


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## bon1 (Jul 9, 2012)

First of all, thank you SelfBuilt for composing such a very in-depth review about this new series of flashlights! 

While reading this review, I couldn't help but notice in this picture:






That the spring used at the bottom of the battery tube seems to be of the "leaf spring" type. Now, I've always had the impression that "coil springs" were sturdier and more reliable than the older leaf springs. Thus, I would like to know if there's any reason for NiteCore to use a leaf spring in this particular set up. Also, I would like to know if this leaf spring is easy to replace by the layman user in case one of the leaves of said spring was to break or flatten down--conversely, is this leaf spring available for purchase as a spare part?

Eventually, is there any reason why this series of flashlights, and particularily the AA model, do not have a pocket clip? In my limited experience, that's the most useful accessory that can be fitted to a carry-in-the-pocket flashlight.


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## tam17 (Jul 9, 2012)

bon1 said:


> I would like to know if there's any reason for NiteCore to use a leaf spring in this particular set up.



AFAIK, this setup is used in some other "battery crushers" (notably Fenix LD15) but I haven't seen any reports of failures.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 9, 2012)

bon1 said:


> That the spring used at the bottom of the battery tube seems to be of the "leaf spring" type. Now, I've always had the impression that "coil springs" were sturdier and more reliable than the older leaf springs. Thus, I would like to know if there's any reason for NiteCore to use a leaf spring in this particular set up. Also, I would like to know if this leaf spring is easy to replace by the layman user in case one of the leaves of said spring was to break or flatten down--conversely, is this leaf spring available for purchase as a spare part?


I would have to leave that to Nitecore to explain, but if I were to hazard a guess, I suspect it has to do with the twisty mechanism.

There is enough tension provided by screwing down the head that a tailcap spring is not actually required in this case. Note that a lot of twisty lights with a high number of fine head screw threads (as in the case here) actually only have a small raised post in the tail (e.g. the EZ lights, a number AAA-style lights, etc). For this reason, twisty lights all have the potential to be battery crushers. 

I am just guessing, but I suspect the "leaf spring" design here is to provide some flexible give (i.e. to reduce the risk of negative battery terminal denting, which I have seen with post-style tails). I always recommend that users keep an eye on the both terminal ends of their battery, though (e.g., I've seen the positive terminals get bent down as well in twisty lights).



> is there any reason why this series of flashlights, and particularily the AA model, do not have a pocket clip? In my limited experience, that's the most useful accessory that can be fitted to a carry-in-the-pocket flashlight.


Good question ... I don't know what Nitecore is bundling with the lights, but there doesn't seem to be a lot place to secure a clip on these models. :thinking:


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## bon1 (Jul 9, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> I am just guessing, but I suspect the "leaf spring" design here is to provide some flexible give (i.e. to reduce the risk of negative battery terminal denting, which I have seen with post-style tails). I always recommend that users keep an eye on the both terminal ends of their battery, though (e.g., I've seen the positive terminals get bent down as well in twisty lights).



Couldn't have they used a coil spring instead of a leaf spring for this application? The advantage that I can see using a coil spring is that it'll hardly ever break or flatten (if designed properly). The only twisty flashlight that I can think of the top of my head using a coil spring is the EagleTac D25A Mini.

Also, I can think of a couple of disadvantages of using a coil spring. Firstly, I'm "almost sure" that a coil spring is going to take more vertical space than a leaf spring and, secondly, a fully compressed coil spring will most probably act like a "post-style tail".

I could be wrong though, please, feel free to correct me.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 9, 2012)

bon1 said:


> Also, I can think of a couple of disadvantages of using a coil spring. Firstly, I'm "almost sure" that a coil spring is going to take more vertical space than a leaf spring and, secondly, a fully compressed coil spring will most probably act like a "post-style tail".


Yes, I would say those are both likely true statements. I guess we will have to wait and see how well the leaf springs hold up in use. :shrug:


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## fyrstormer (Jul 9, 2012)

A conical coil spring will take up no more vertical space than a leaf spring, because the coils will nest inside each other as the spring compresses. Furthermore, because a comparably-sized coil spring is made of a relatively long piece of wire, the torsion on each segment of wire is much lower than the flexion on the relatively short leaves of the leaf spring.

I doubt the leaf spring will reach its stress-cycle limit quickly, but a coil spring would last effectively forever, which would extend the life of the light until the electronics fail, which is how electro-mechanical devices like flashlights *should* work. They probably used a leaf spring just to save money, because they can be stamped with a cutting die from a sheet of metal.


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## matrixshaman (Jul 9, 2012)

Thanks for your excellent reviews and as always now I gotta' have one. Does anyone know where these are in stock? I see batteryjunction has them listed but they don't seem to have in stock.


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## bon1 (Jul 10, 2012)

fyrstormer said:


> I doubt the leaf spring will reach its stress-cycle limit quickly, but a coil spring would last effectively forever, which would extend the life of the light until the electronics fail, which is how electro-mechanical devices like flashlights *should* work. They probably used a leaf spring just to save money, because they can be stamped with a cutting die from a sheet of metal.



There's a set of these lights reviewed on the "Layman's Flashlight Reviews" website where one of the leaf springs effectively flattened. Apparently, that particular light continued to work well, despite the battery rattling around when the light was switched off. That sounds like a premature failure to me!

Otherwise, I fully agree that electro-mechanical devices should last until the electronics fail (and if said electronics were user replaceable that'd be awesome!).


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## selfbuilt (Jul 10, 2012)

bon1 said:


> Apparently, that particular light continued to work well, despite the battery rattling around when the light was switched off. That sounds like a premature failure to me!


Yes, increased rattle and greater tightening of the head are the two likely outcomes over time, as the leaf springs flatten out.

Certainly not ideal for use, but it is still safer than dented batteries (I've had small twisty lights mangle more than a couple of AAA/AA/CR123A batteries in my day). 

FYI, I see MSRP seems to be ~$32 for each of these lights. I'll update the specs in the review ...


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## bltkmt (Jul 12, 2012)

matrixshaman said:


> Thanks for your excellent reviews and as always now I gotta' have one. Does anyone know where these are in stock? I see batteryjunction has them listed but they don't seem to have in stock.



I ordered mine from Batteryjunction and it shipped yesterday.


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## matrixshaman (Jul 13, 2012)

I got my Nitecore Sens CR123 version and I found a couple issues. I'm not sure if this one is defective or they are all like this but when using a regular CR123 everything seems fine. However with a RCR123 (AW brand black label) if you start out turning it on straight up it does not seem to dim when pointing it down. Even straight down it seemed to be full brightness or almost (I haven't put a light meter on it yet but if it dims it isn't much). However if I start out and turn it on straight down it is obviously at a lower level by far. I waited at least 10 seconds for it to drop down from the straight up start on position and that brings up the other issue. It gets too hot to hold the head within about 5 to 10 seconds at most when on the RCR123. I just now tried this again and I think I can see it ramping down just a little when pointing straight down. Also interesting to note how it starts out very dim when turned on straight down and ramps up to the low setting while still pointing straight down. To bad they didn't keep low a little lower IMO. Trippy light  however it doesn't seem to like RCR123's too much and without them it's not that bright. I'd give it 6 out of 10 stars (would only be 4 or 5 if it wasn't for the uniqueness of the acclerometer).


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## selfbuilt (Jul 13, 2012)

matrixshaman said:


> I'm not sure if this one is defective or they are all like this but when using a regular CR123 everything seems fine. However with a RCR123 (AW brand black label) if you start out turning it on straight up it does not seem to dim when pointing it down.


There's definitely something wrong with your sample. My SENS CR works perfectly on AW protected black labels. 

As you can see in my tables, the min output of my SENS CR on 1xRCR is about twice as bright as 1xCR123A - but is still less than the defined Lo mode on either battery.

One thing I've noticed is that it takes longer to ramp down on 1xRCR (likely because it is so much brighter to start). It took ~7 secs to go from max to min, once I had it angled fully downward.

But I agree it gets very warm quickly on 1xRCR on Hi/Max. I don't recommend people run such small lights at those levels, certainly not un-cooled.


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## Captain Spaulding (Jul 13, 2012)

Awesome review as usual. I might have to pick one of these up to play with. I just bought an EZ CR2 as I had a munch of CR2 cells to burn through. The *SENS Mini *does look pretty cool. Too bad it lacks the threaded part for screwing on to a tri-pod though. It would be cool if the head would interchange with the Nitecore EZ CR2 body...


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## Nake (Jul 13, 2012)

Mine doesn't dim much either when pointing down with the AW batt, some but not much. Works alright with a CR123 though.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 13, 2012)

Nake said:


> Mine doesn't dim much either when pointing down with the AW batt, some but not much. Works alright with a CR123 though.


Hmmm, are your batteries hot off the charger? I have been testing with cells that have typically been run for a few secs to a minute or two. No issue with any of them.


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## fyrstormer (Jul 13, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, increased rattle and greater tightening of the head are the two likely outcomes over time, as the leaf springs flatten out.
> 
> Certainly not ideal for use, but it is still safer than dented batteries (I've had small twisty lights mangle more than a couple of AAA/AA/CR123A batteries in my day).


I've certainly dented a few battery terminals in my day, but I've never rendered a battery unusable in a "battery crusher" flashlight. Maybe I apply less force when twisting than you do.


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## Nake (Jul 13, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> Hmmm, are your batteries hot off the charger? I have been testing with cells that have typically been run for a few secs to a minute or two. No issue with any of them.



It wasn't off the charger but fairly new and read 4.18V. I tried with an older batt, 4.16V, and same thing. When I started in the low position both batteries showed quite a bit lower than when using the swing down method.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 13, 2012)

Nake said:


> It wasn't off the charger but fairly new and read 4.18V. I tried with an older batt, 4.16V, and same thing. When I started in the low position both batteries showed quite a bit lower than when using the swing down method.


Hmm, disconcerting. That's probably around the same voltages as my cells - and Min output is definitely lower than the defined Lo mode in my case.


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## matrixshaman (Jul 15, 2012)

Looks like Nake is having the same issue. I've run down my RCR123 to about 3.85 volts and it's still doing the same thing as far as not dimming down compared to starting on low. I've given it way longer than 7 seconds but no dimming level compared to starting it on low. However I take back what I said about it not being that bright on a CR123. It's not quite as bright but still very bright. One other thing I've noted now is how really very bright this light is on the RCR123. It looks brighter on high than the new Sunwayman M11R I just got when it's on high. Sunwayman is supposed to be 230 Lumens on high. Nitecore is supposed to be 190 on high. Either the Sunwayman is weak or this Nitecore is extra bright. It's been compared ceiling bounce and about 15 feet away on a white wall. I'll take some Lux readings if I get a chance.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 15, 2012)

matrixshaman said:


> One other thing I've noted now is how really very bright this light is on the RCR123. It looks brighter on high than the new Sunwayman M11R I just got when it's on high. Sunwayman is supposed to be 230 Lumens on high. Nitecore is supposed to be 190 on high. Either the Sunwayman is weak or this Nitecore is extra bright.


The rated ANSI specs for lights refer to 1xCR123A, and are fairly accurate in my testing on my samples (i.e., I estimate 230 for M11R and 210 for the SENS CR).

With RCR, results can vary greatly, depending on how the circuit handles it. In this case, output increases on both lights on RCR, but more so for the SENS CR (as you will see in my tables in the review, I estimate 320 lumens for M11R, 370 lumens for SENS CR).

Again, that can be highly variable among different lights. My Sunwayman V11R is also ~220 lumens on 1xCR123A, but a whopping ~550 lumens (initially) on RCR. So max performance on CR123A is never really an indicator of what to expect on RCR.

Anyway, sorry to hear about the lack of dimming issue on yours and Nake's samples. Definitely doesn't seem right.


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## Hondo (Jul 15, 2012)

My two AA samples landed Friday from Light Junction. I am very pleased. I have only used them around the house so far, but I have to say that my initial impression that I would mostly use the fixed modes was correct. My problem with the ADT is that it gets too bright too soon for indoor use. I have to deliberately point it near straight down to keep it at a reasonable brightness.

That said, they are as great as I thought for being able to select any one of the three modes directly, no cycling required. I had a bit of a time getting medium every time until I realized that I need to hold it closer to horizontal. Trying for 45 degrees puts it right on the edge of grabbing low, and you won't get high until you are within about 10 degrees of horizontal. I also notice that compared to other twisties, it requires more rotation to get in and out of positive "on" and "off" respectively. I need to use more than a quarter turn going each way for positive activation.

The optic beam was a pleasant surprise, a large hotspot with some gradual spill that never has a hard edge to it. The only thing more I could ask for in the beam would be a neutral tint, but as cools go, this one is very free of annoying tints.

Mode spacing is very good, and I really can't imagine having a brighter low, it is the mode I use most. That is why I only got the AA models.

I also agree with selfbuilt that the ADT is too slow to dim when lowering the light, although I don't think that would explain most of what keeps me from using it about the house. Additionally, I am not as fond of the soft start as I thought I would be, because it is slow enough that I am never quite sure when I have twisted the light enough for low or medium activation, as I have to wait a second or two to see if it is coming on or not. I don't want to just twist it until it gets real firm, as that could over compress the flat spring, and cause the type of issues many are concerned about. But I am getting better with practice at gauging the amount of twist I need for reliable turn-on. It's just different from all of my other twisties with hard stops.

Another big thanks to selfbuilt for the review, as it looks like it helped me make a very good choice on these lights!


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## selfbuilt (Jul 15, 2012)

Thanks for the detailed comments on AA model.



Hondo said:


> That said, they are as great as I thought for being able to select any one of the three modes directly, no cycling required. I had a bit of a time getting medium every time until I realized that I need to hold it closer to horizontal. Trying for 45 degrees puts it right on the edge of grabbing low, and you won't get high until you are within about 10 degrees of horizontal.


Yes, I found exactly the same thing - I had a tendency to go for 45 degree, and more often than not over-shot the mark and got Lo. That's why I made up this figure for the review:







And I agree about the output ranges on the AA ... I find I prefer them over the other two members of the family (i.e. on NiMH, the Lo and Med are both considerably lower - which is better for around the house at night).


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## matrixshaman (Jul 16, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> The rated ANSI specs for lights refer to 1xCR123A, and are fairly accurate in my testing on my samples (i.e., I estimate 230 for M11R and 210 for the SENS CR).
> 
> With RCR, results can vary greatly, depending on how the circuit handles it. In this case, output increases on both lights on RCR, but more so for the SENS CR (as you will see in my tables in the review, I estimate 320 lumens for M11R, 370 lumens for SENS CR).
> 
> ...



Thanks selfbuilt for the additional info. I did look at both threads and charts but somehow missed that the Sens CR was showing higher on the RCR123 than the M11R. That does match with what I am seeing with the Nitecore Sens. 

However I'm more concerned now about the Sunwayman M11R as I am getting the same readings with my lightmeter from it whether it's on RCR123 or a primary CR123 (both right at 330 Lux for the same distance). Voltage after the test was 3.98v on RCR123 and 2.89v on the CR123. One RCR123 is an AW IMR16340 and the other is a black label AW reading 3.95v volts. I tried 2 RCR123's to verify it wasn't just an oddity with one. Quality Fluke voltmeter also.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 16, 2012)

matrixshaman said:


> However I'm more concerned now about the Sunwayman M11R as I am getting the same readings with my lightmeter from it whether it's on RCR123 or a primary CR123 (both right at 330 Lux for the same distance). Voltage after the test was 3.98v on RCR123 and 2.89v on the CR123. One RCR123 is an AW IMR16340 and the other is a black label AW reading 3.95v volts. I tried 2 RCR123's to verify it wasn't just an oddity with one. Quality Fluke voltmeter also.


Hmm, well part of that may be due to the fact that the M11R - like most lights - is not flat stabilized on RCR (whereas it is on CR123A). So while it is definitely brighter than CR123A on a freshly charged (i.e. 4.2V) RCR, by the time you get down to <4V, I would expect my M11R to only be ~10-15% brighter than a new or similarly depleted CR123A (very rough guestimate - I haven't measured it). Try a fully charged RCR and see how it does.


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## dts71 (Aug 20, 2012)

Has anyone tried the Sense AA with LiFePO4? It would be interesting to see if it would behave as Sense CR on CR123 and keep a generous mode spacing.


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## Combatvet (Aug 23, 2012)

I can see a definite advantage for this technology in tactical environments as a weaponlight. All that is needed is a clicky tailcap and a dedicated push button on the upper or lower body, EX: Olight.


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## tobrien (Aug 23, 2012)

Combatvet said:


> I can see a definite advantage for this technology in tactical environments as a weaponlight. All that is needed is a clicky tailcap and a dedicated push button on the upper or lower body, EX: Olight.



i like that idea, good thinking! we need someone to make it happen haha


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## selfbuilt (Aug 23, 2012)

Combatvet said:


> All that is needed is a clicky tailcap and a dedicated push button on the upper or lower body, EX: Olight.


I agree, I can see this interface working well with a clicky switch. I think the continuous-adjustment mode would be strengtened by the ability to temporarily "lock" the light at a given level (e.g., by press-and-hold of a switch, for example).


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## Combatvet (Aug 23, 2012)

This could be a serious game changer for an innovative company. Most tactical entries start with the the weapon pointed down, then raised up to view for threats, and then back down to conceal position. I cannot fathom why this isn't already on the market, I'm sure they've patented the technology or else I'd be contacting a lawyer right now. Nitecore is a Chinese based company, so I need to check to see if I can poach their tech..


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## matrixshaman (Aug 23, 2012)

Combatvet said:


> This could be a serious game changer for an innovative company. Most tactical entries start with the the weapon pointed down, then raised up to view for threats, and then back down to conceal position. I cannot fathom why this isn't already on the market, I'm sure they've patented the technology or else I'd be contacting a lawyer right now. Nitecore is a Chinese based company, so I need to check to see if I can poach their tech..



The low on this isn't all that low and it's very slow to ramp down so not sure how good it would be in a needed concealment situation - and since it's a twisty rather than tail switch it would be difficult to turn off completely in a hurry. Fast to ramp up though. I personally don't see it as being a great tactical light - very small but it might have it's uses there. 

I did somewhat solve my issue with it not ramping down much on Li-Ions as I bought some 3.0 volt Li-Ion cells from DX. I'm not sure if it's a special chemistry or a circuit in the battery that limits the voltage but it does work and much better than regular Li-Ions for this light (or at least the one Nake and I got).


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## andrewnewman (Aug 24, 2012)

These lights (I own the AA model) already take my favorite AA format (think CMG Infinity) to new levels. With a simple reliable switching design and a modern LED, the addition of an accelerometer adds functionality without additional mechanical complexity. My impression is that the brightness levels have more to do with power management than tactical utility. The low really isn't that low and in auto-dimming mode you really need to be pointing it pretty close to right down at the floor to observe the lowest setting.

My experience is that with auto-dimming on when outside using the light to illuminate your path, the light *seems* to be on a very high setting most of the time and yet the battery utilization is nothing short of amazing. I don't even think about it under these circumstances. It just seems to work.

Indoors, the fixed settings are more useful for task work or when I want to tail stand the light to illuminate a dark space evenly. It needs a lanyard. Curiously my EA1 came with a lanyard that is essentially unattacheable to the EA1. Works fine with the SENS AA.

I believe that with the EA/EC and SENS series Nitecore is experimenting with manufacturing techniques that save money. They are not all successful. On the EA series, the press fit steel bezel doesn't fit accurately enough in my sample to assure water tightness. Moisture ends up under the window when it gets wet. This is a "fail" IMHO. Automating the pressure for the press fit is harder than it looks. Too little and it leaks. Too much and the glass might break when the head heats up. I gave up on rimless eyeglasses for this reason. The optician uses a tool a little like a torque wrench to attach the press fit fasteners for the temple pieces to the polycarbonate. 40-50% of the time the temple was either too loose or sufficiently tight that spiderweb cracks occurred in the polycarbonate lens after a month or so of use.

The SENS savings attempt was more successful. They are using a one piece plastic optic instead of a reflector and window. The brass in the head captures the circuit board and the whole thing stays together nicely. There must be a some sort of sealant preventing water incursion around the aluminum and the optic. It's solidly water tight in my sample. Also the use of brass makes the twisty nice and smooth (with the right lubricant).


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## ClassicGOD (Sep 1, 2012)

My Sens Mini died on me today. I turned it on on high mode - ti turn on for a few seconds and turned off. From this moment it doesn't turn on and if it turns on it is very dim (around 0,05lm) and flickers. Tested it with 2 different batteries that measured 2,99V - no luck. Will probably send it back on monday. I'm sad because I loved this light.


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## buds224 (Sep 1, 2012)

I have the SENS CR and discovered it makes a great headlamp with the accelerometer mode.


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## Hoop (Sep 30, 2012)

Picked up a sens mini. (CR2 battery) Low is too bright; it hurts my eyes a bit in night adapted vision. Low mode could have been the medium instead. The accelerometer (sens) mode is not very useful because it takes too long to adjust when you point it down. It stays at full high brightness, which is very bright, for 2+ seconds before starting to dim to low. I find myself squinting or closing my eyes waiting for it to dim. When you point it up it instantly goes to high, though, so this is just poor implementation (programming) of the feature. Not sure what (or if) they were thinking.

If sens were instant all around, and if low was lower, this would be an awesome light. As it is, I am going to seek an alternative CR2 light as an EDC.


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## herosemblem (Oct 7, 2012)

I have a SENS CR and I use CR123 primaries.

Mine lacks a medium output level. Medium does not exist as a constant output level, AND medium does not exist in ADT mode. 
Anyone else have this problem?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 7, 2012)

herosemblem said:


> Mine lacks a medium output level. Medium does not exist as a constant output level, AND medium does not exist in ADT mode.
> Anyone else have this problem?


Can you describe what actually happens if you slowly change the angle the light in ADT mode? Presumably it needs to move through medium levels to get to/from Hi/Lo. 

As for the constant output modes, have you tried all the angles shown in the diagram in the review? It can seem counter-intuitive that ~45 degree angle might bring up Lo instead of Med. What happens if you try a ~15% degree down angle?


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## herosemblem (Oct 7, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR*

Turned light on while pointed straight up to engage ADT mode. Now, with the light held parallel to the ground, light is on high. Slowly aand incrementally, I aim light downward. Light is now aimed down at a 45*angle and nothing happens (light still remains in high output). 
After at least 5 seconds (I.e. givings the sensor enough time to work) I begin slowly aiming the light further downward from the aforementioned angle. Nothing happens.
Finally, now that the high mode beam is aimed just in front of my feet (it must be about 20* angle), the light dims to low mode (Mind you, low mode is actually pretty darn bright and I would blind myself if I used this low mode to light my notepad or something). 

Basically, my SENS CR unit skips medium mode altogether. 
If I want to engage constant output modes, low is achievable. High mode is as well. If I aim the light diagonally downward at, or in the vicinity of a 45* angle and turn it on, the beam is the same brightness as high mode. It is as if medium mode does not exist. I fiddled with the light for about and hour and forty five minutes...I do not think it's me. Seems like a dud, and I emailed the vendor today.


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## Hoop (Oct 8, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR*

Another minor concern of mine is that the TIR optic is plastic and exposed, although it is recessed maybe half a millimeter, so you can place it face down on a flat surface without it getting scratched. I would prefer a glass lens to protect it from scratches though.


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## herosemblem (Oct 8, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*

SENS seems like a brilliant concept, and perhaps i fell victim to the novelty and manufacturer claims. In my opinion it definitely needs some work/time before it becomes great in practice. I think of it akin to the early days of hybrid cars. 
Maybe the next company that uses this tech will have a faster-responding processor, that way we dont have to wait 2.5 seconds for the processor to respond to changes in the flashlight's orientation. Thanks for doing the review, and for your troubleshooting advice, Selfbuilt.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 8, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR*



herosemblem said:


> Seems like a dud, and I emailed the vendor today.


Thanks for the detailed explanation. Yes, it does indeed seem like the light is malfunctioning, and will need to be replaced.


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## Hoop (Oct 10, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*



herosemblem said:


> Maybe the next company that uses this tech will have a faster-responding processor, that way we dont have to wait 2.5 seconds for the processor to respond to changes in the flashlight's orientation. Thanks for doing the review, and for your troubleshooting advice, Selfbuilt.



It is an intentional feature so that the light doesn't dim too often while walking, according to Nitecore. I don't know what other peoples arms are made out of, but mine have bones and I have no problem holding a light steady.


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## herosemblem (Oct 10, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*

Hoop, your explanation of the slow response of the light makes sense for outdoor applications. Thank you.
I suppose the annoyance of the "slow response" aspect of this light arises primarily in indoor settings...
But, since one can then make the point that lights aren't really meant to be used indoors as much as outdoors, the annoyance point becomes moot. 
I will proceed accordingly and use my SENS _outdoors_ more, where my slow response complaint will not exist as much.


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## Hondo (Oct 13, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*

Well, I now have had a chance to use the Sens AA on multiple long hikes out of the woods on rough trails, a couple of miles each time. I will say I was right that the active feature is more useful there than around the house, as I suspected. But at the end of the day (OK, night), I found that I was most happy just setting it to a fixed mode. The modes are well spaced, and stay steady as I walk. No loss, as the active feature is "hidden" if you don't want it, and easy to get to if you think it might help.

I noted something interesting. It may seem easy to maintain a constant angle on the light as you walk, but the brightness can still bounce around on you without tilting the light. As I walk, the light will get a bit of acceleration fore and aft, and the accelerometer picks this up just like you were tilting it. A graphic example is to point the light straight down with the active on, so it is at minimum, and give it a little jerk up. The light will jump to near max and then settle back down.

I think they did about as good as they could on the "damping" of the active brightness with the slow dimming method, but the only thing that nags me now in use is the slow start in low and medium, and not knowing if I have twisted it far enough. I don't want to just mash it down to be sure, as the spring in the tail can be damaged that way. I see no value in the slow start, and I think it should be canned from the UI. But the rest of the package is so nice and unique, I can easily overlook this.


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## outdoormanZ (Nov 1, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*

As checked in the shop, it is too slow to change mode when the position changed.


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## snakyjake (Nov 25, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*

A feature I'd like to see Nitecore develop with the accelerometer is being able to change output mode by a quick shake of the light.

I'm also interested in a AAA version of the light, which can tail stand.


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## duro (Nov 26, 2012)

Nitecore seriously needs to make more neutral offerings.


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## AFearlessBirdOfParadise (Nov 27, 2012)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*



snakyjake said:


> I'm also interested in a AAA version of the light, which can tail stand.



Yeah it's weird to me they went CR2 instead of a more common/cheaper AAA.


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## sodakar (Mar 18, 2013)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*

A bit late to the party, but I just noticed that the manual states that RCR123's are not officially supported, which might explain some of the inconsistent performance with RCR's.

http://www.nitecore.com/UploadFile/Files/download/1-1_SensCR_UM_en.pdf

Battery Options

SIZE Nominal voltage Usability
Primary Lithium battery CR123 3V Y (Recommended)
Rechargeable Battery (Li-ion) RCR123 3.7V N (Banned)


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## sodakar (Mar 21, 2013)

*Re: Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Revie*

Mine arrived yesterday, and while the output, price, and build are great, I have to say I'm not a huge fan... In short, it feels like the light wants to be on High, and any adjustment towards the brighter spectrum happens at a decent speed, but ramping down towards Low/Medium is multiple times slower and very uncomfortable.

For example, when the light is pointed downward (-90 deg), and I smoothly angle it up to -45, then +/- 0 (level) over the course of 1~1.5 seconds, the light gets progressively brighter and ramps up nicely.

However, when attempting to do the reverse at the same speed, I find my light pointing downwards (-90 deg) still at full, or near-full brightness, and taking another 3-5 seconds to slowly reach the correct Low level. This is extremely uncomfortable.

I don't have an exact analogy, but ramping up feels like when I remote desktop to a computer that's 200 miles away -- a bit laggy but tolerable -- ramping down feels like when I remote desktop into a computer 2000 miles away -- you're done moving and just waiting and waiting for the light. Laggy.

Also, the thing that drives me nuts is that when I attempt to start the light on Low and/or Medium, the light does not immediately turn on, but slowly ramps up to the designed brightness. On High, the duration is very short and responsive like a normal, screw-on head, but with Low and Medium, I am constantly wondering if I turned it enough.

A side note: My EagleTac RCR's work fine, other than it being a bit too long, and requiring the head to be unscrewed so far that the O-ring is visible.


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## pyro1son (Mar 31, 2013)

*Nitecore SENS CR, Mini, AA (1xCR123A/CR2/AA) Series Review: VIDEO, RUNTIMES, BE*

Got my AA version the other day an have been on a night hike with it already! I have to say i do quite like this little light! 
I have noticed some of the things previously mentioned like it takes a lot longer to dim that to get to high! Which is a bit annoying and either mine doesn't have medium or i cant notice the brightness change!  
Neither of these problems bother me, its such a nice little light for the money! 
Anyhow I doubt that I will see much of this light as my other half has claimed this one as hers!!


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## sirockalot (Apr 8, 2013)

I just picked up a Nitecore sens CR. I actually like it, it has great output on 16340's. altho a different beam profile then my EC1(wicked good EDC!), at close range it almost the same brightness at close distances using 16340's in both... as a useless fact of note, I noticed the heads between my FenixE15 and nitecore sens CR are easily interchangeable between their body tube(same thread partern). yes a mostly useless fact, but I find playing with different length protected/unprotected batteries, I could get a better fit. ie: the head would screw down farther... silly post I know, just thought it was an interesting find..... Cheers!


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## skyva (May 16, 2013)

I just received mine from fasttech. Overall seems ok but an issue with the twisty head is that it doesn't screw down far enough with an AW 16340 battery. When off, the o-ring is exposed so there would be no water tigthness, and the head is loose. This means that it can rotate easily in my pocket and after one day it has already turned on giving me a hot rock in my pocket (and not in a good way). Also, the UI means that if it settles in your pocket horizontal or upright and turns on, it comes on at 100%, which is not user changeable.
In my view the design is poor. The head forms the battery compartment meaning the battery rattles when off, and the spring extension determines the engagement point. Thus if you compress the end spring and have the torch on for a while, then give it a half turn off, put it in your pocket, you better hope the springs don't slowly extend and turn it on. The alternative is to ensure a whole turn on and off, which is hardly one handed or waterproof once you can see the o-ring.
There should be a compartment that holds the battery and forms a curcuit, then the head just turns to touch the circuit, instead of the head forming the holding compartment and circuit.
It is only a cheap torch so maybe I should try bending the springs down so I get more head engagement with the threads before contact is made. Still not a reliable edc for me.


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## buds224 (May 17, 2013)

skyva said:


> I just received mine from fasttech. Overall seems ok but an issue with the twisty head is that it doesn't screw down far enough with an AW 16340 battery. When off, the o-ring is exposed so there would be no water tigthness, and the head is loose. This means that it can rotate easily in my pocket and after one day it has already turned on giving me a hot rock in my pocket (and not in a good way). Also, the UI means that if it settles in your pocket horizontal or upright and turns on, it comes on at 100%, which is not user changeable.
> In my view the design is poor. The head forms the battery compartment meaning the battery rattles when off, and the spring extension determines the engagement point. Thus if you compress the end spring and have the torch on for a while, then give it a half turn off, put it in your pocket, you better hope the springs don't slowly extend and turn it on. The alternative is to ensure a whole turn on and off, which is hardly one handed or waterproof once you can see the o-ring.
> There should be a compartment that holds the battery and forms a curcuit, then the head just turns to touch the circuit, instead of the head forming the holding compartment and circuit.
> It is only a cheap torch so maybe I should try bending the springs down so I get more head engagement with the threads before contact is made. Still not a reliable edc for me.



I had the same issue with some of my 16340s. I noticed my Blue Ultrafire ones are slightly shorter than the Grey ones. I know, I know, they are not recommended and are cheap ones, but the point being is that the batteries seem to vary slightly even though they are all called 16340. I wonder if it has to do with the protection board adding to the length of the batteries?

FYI - all your points are still valid as I see them. The design could have been better.


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## elektrosss (May 17, 2013)

Thanks for your excellent reviews and as always now I gotta' have one.


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## kevral (Nov 24, 2013)

Sens AA received last night and promptly stopped working today.
Wonderful.


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## selfbuilt (Nov 24, 2013)

There's never fun. Check with your dealer about a replacement.

And :welcome:


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## goose (Dec 13, 2013)

I would like to ask a question about the mini sens how low the battery voltage needs to get before the light stops working???


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## selfbuilt (Dec 14, 2013)

goose said:


> I would like to ask a question about the mini sens how low the battery voltage needs to get before the light stops working???


Well, the light will keep going at lower and lower outputs until the battery is fully drained. But I presume you mean at what point will a discharged cell not let the light activate? That I have not tested. Not sure how accurate one could test that with primary cells anyway (i.e., voltage at rest doesn't tell you much). And I don't have rechargeable RCR2 to test.


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## goose (Dec 14, 2013)

Thank you.. The reason I asked was that got lots of CR2 batteries that are at 50-60% .. Looking for ways to use them up. As I'm getting more and more of them.. That light would also be great walking the dog easy to keep in the pocket. Also don't have to keep it on for long.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 14, 2013)

goose said:


> Thank you.. The reason I asked was that got lots of CR2 batteries that are at 50-60% ..


Should be fine for that, but I haven't actually tested it.


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## goose (Jan 23, 2014)

Well got the light and its great bright and I mean real bright. Just wish I could adj the focus some what to reach out more. light seems to die out when the battery drops to 2.76v. The last 10 min or so its very weak. I do a lot of hiking at night time and on low its plenty of light for hiking on trails. When doing Geocaching at night you put it on mid range its great to look for the hidden Cache. The high I use only if there are coyotes out there and I want to see where they are by watching the reflection off there eyes.
Its not a by the book type of a review but more of the seat of the pants type. If you are like me and have Lots of CR2 batteries laying around its great light to have, Always got an extra battery in my pocket. Love it.


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## Kevo (Feb 28, 2014)

I just bought one of these and it's a bit of a disappointment. The emitter is slightly off center, which doesn't affect the light too much but does limit throw somewhat. The threads are bad so it always feels like it's cross threading when I first start it out. And it was worse before cleaning, working, and lubing. It's surprisingly difficult to turn on with one hand as it has to be screwed down pretty tight to come on. Also the slow ramp up makes it a bit more difficult to see when you've gone far enough. I feel like if I am not looking at the emitter then I might screw it down too hard and damage the battery or switch mechanism.

It is bright, and the UI is neat, but overall it seems a bit disappointing. At least it was less than $30 so it has that going for it. I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep using this as an EDC. I'll try it for a while, but at this point I definitely wouldn't gift it or give it to my wife to use. And we know the wife test is the ultimate sign of a good UI.


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## Dave D (Mar 14, 2014)

I've had the SENS AA for some while and noticed this thread today, in the user guide it states that it is not compatible with 14500 batteries so beware in case you fry your SENS AA.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 14, 2014)

Dave D said:


> I've had the SENS AA for some while and noticed this thread today, in the user guide it states that it is not compatible with 14500 batteries so beware in case you fry your SENS AA.


That must have changed from the original release. I'll add a note the review.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 2, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> That must have changed from the original release. I'll add a note the review.


Just an update, but I see the online manual for the SENS CR now similarly bans 3.7V Li-ion RCR cells as well.

I don't know if Nitecore has actually changed anything in the circuit, but 14500 and RCR Li-ion cells are no longer supported in the SENS AA and CR.


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## aud (Jun 4, 2014)

I've had the sens aa for a few months now, and ordered a couple more for gifts and thought I would try to contribute a little. The reason I went with the first sens aa had nothing to do with the auto-dimming mode. I just thought it would be easier to select low/med/high compared to tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, etc... to get the desired output level like on a typical twist. And it works quite well, just point the flashlight at the floor and tighten to get low, works every time. But in playing around with it I really like the auto adjust mode, it simply works, and if i want a constant level I can do that as well. I like twist lights for a light i'll be carrying in my pocket, smaller and nearly no risk of accidentally turning it on. But I always hated the multiple twists to select a level. the sens unit solves that and for me works quite nicely.


For me all three levels are useful, it's plenty bright for a small single AA pocket light but gives me options for lower brightness which I use more often than not.


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## kingsix87 (Oct 30, 2016)

I know this is quite an old thread, but I am having some issues with my Nitecore SENS AA and was wondering if you could share some advice. 
It is still on its first battery - regular Duracell Alkaline battery. Last night it would turn one time, and refuse the next attempt. Then it completely stopped working. Tonight when I got home, I measured the Duracell at 1.46-1.48V which doesn't seem all that empty. I checked all possible connections, even scratched some of the paint to measure connectivity and resistance between the brass threaded heatsink and the battery housing and everything seemed in order. Then I replaced the battery with a brand new Duracell at 1.6V and voila - the Nitecore lit. After that I tested it with another Duracell from my maglite at 1.51V and it was working fine. I also tried a couple of Eneloops at 1.32V and the flashlight refused to turn on at all with that. 

From all that I concluded that my flashlight won't work with a battery that has below 1.5V. The Nitecore site states it is tested to work with 1.2V NiMH of "high quality" I don't see that happening with mine. Does any of you experienced similar issues?

I have a suspicion that if the same head is used through the entire range and it can work with 2xAA, CR2 and CR123, a single AA battery would be at the low end of voltage ranges and would easily become too weak to work. Has anyone tested this light with a 14500 lithium battery?


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