# FENXI 2-Stage switch -- It works:



## wwglen (Nov 14, 2005)

Last week I had an idea to modify a fenix into a two stage twisty.

Switching mode works like this.

Lockout is off (twist switch 1/8-1/4 turn) --> On (Tighten switch to turn on light)

The power level is determined by the clickie position:
Clickie off == LOW
Clickie on == HIGH.

With a 10 ohm resistor I get a reading of and a slightly used NiMH:

HIGH --> 550-600 mA
LOW --> 35-40mA 

based on this, run time should be about 10x longer on low (30+ hours)

My initial concept was shown in this thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/97812

Since I didn't have any surface mount resistors I decided to try it with what I had on hand.

Again look at the pictures from post:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1089436&postcount=18

Look close at the second and third pictures showing the switch. 

The important thing to know is thet the two visiable switch contacts are the ones that are switched. There is apparently no hidden contacts under the switch.

On the back of the board you will see a series of through holes. these holes connect the outside conducting ring to the switch contact on the other side.

There are also two flats on the side of the switch between the contact plates. It turns out that a standard radio shack resistor will fit along this flat.

I wanted 10 ohms for my resistance and only had 22 ohm resistors so I used two resistors and placed one on each flat. 

I then bent the legs on the resistor to follow the curviture of the switch making sure that the legs did not extend beyound the circuit board. 

Also make sure the resistors do not sit higher then the top of the switch surface as the flat washer that holds the rubber cover and the switch in place use the top of the switch as a bearing surface.

One leg of each resistor went through hole in the circuit board and the other leg wrapped around to the switch contact on the far side of the switch.

I soldered the legs that went through the board on the SWITCH side so as to NOT have a solder blob on the part that makes contact to the threaded retaining ring.

I then soldered the other legs to the other contact of the switch.

After soldering the resistors I noticed that in a couple points the resistor legs exceeded the edge of the board so I used pliers to bend them back in.

This is now my unqualified EDC and main camping light.

wwglen


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## carlsjrman (Nov 15, 2005)

that is really awesome. i can't believe the board isn't buzzing over your news. if i was a little more technically inclined, i'd try to mod mine the same way.

**edit** 

any beamshots? :naughty:


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## wwglen (Nov 15, 2005)

No beam shots (at least until tomorrow) but there is one set in the original message.

On low it give off more light then my cheap E-Bay 1-AAA arc clone. Still has a good bright spot and SOME spill.

I have it on right now (Doing an informal run time test) and when I was woke up by one of my kids it lit up the whole room pretty good.

It sends a noticable spot across a 30+ foot room with ease.

It has been on LOW continiousally for 6.5 hours and the high beam is still bright and the low is going strong.

Very easy to do. It only took about 1/2 hour once I noticed the resistors fit along the flat sides of the switch.

wwglen


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## McGizmo (Nov 15, 2005)

wwglen,

Great idea!! I happened across your comments and in less than 5 minutes had a two stage Fennix!! :thumbsup: I have some 0805 30 ohm resistors (1/8 watt) so I installed three of them, mounting them to the three solder joints already present on the contact spring. Works like a charm!!! Good job! 

*EDIT: For a data point, with the McR-18 and original battery, on my integrating sphere, I get a (uncertified) reading of .9 lumens on low and 26 lumens on high. For a two stage light like this, that's an excellent spread, IMHO. *


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## jtice (Nov 15, 2005)

Any chance of some pics of this mod?
I am tempted, but want to make sure I know what you guys did.

I assume you are those darn pinhead sized sence resistors? :ironic:

~John


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## wwglen (Nov 15, 2005)

I don't have any pictures but will try to get a couple by tomorrow.

I used the standard 1/4 watt resistors from radio shack. I bought one of their bag of assorted resistors a bout a year ago and had a couple of 22 ohms ones left.

You unscrew the retaining ring and the switch board will fall out.

The switch board has two contacting rings on the side that has the spring and a switch on the other side.

Around the sides of the switch is enough room to place one resistor on each side of the switch. The reisistors will fit perfectally along side of the flat portions of the switch (one on each side if you use 15-20 ohm resistors or only one if you use 5-10 ohms).

On one end of the switch there are a series of thre holes. These holes go to the outter contacting ring on the other side of the swich board. 

You bend one side of the resistor lead around the switch and run it through one of the holes and solder it on from the SWITCH side. (The same side that you have the resistor on)

You then bend the other leg around the other side of the switch and solder it to the switch contact that is on that side of the switch.

This will bypass the switch (when the switch is off) and allow a low mode of light output.

Make sure the resistor leads don't extend past the edge of the switch board and reassemble the switch.

Power lost across the resistor is:

10 ohms * (40mA^2) = 10*.04*.04 = 0.016 Watts so basically ANY small resistor will work.

wwglen


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## BugLightGeek (Nov 15, 2005)

how much to mod my Fenix into a 2-stage?


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## cratz2 (Nov 15, 2005)

BugLightGeek said:


> how much to mod my Fenix into a 2-stage?



Next in line!






Just so I understand, can this light be turned off? Or is it untwist for off, twist for on, then the two clicks provide either low or high, but you can't click it off.

RIght?


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## 4sevens (Nov 15, 2005)

I'm offering the mod here: THREAD 

Yeah apparently this turns your fenix into a "twisty" with the tailcap
acting as high-low toggle.


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## cy (Nov 15, 2005)

pic's please


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## McGizmo (Nov 15, 2005)

4sevens said:


> I'm offering the mod here: THREAD
> 
> Yeah apparently this turns your fenix into a "twisty" with the tailcap
> acting as high-low toggle.



Uh you are selling this mod and haven't even confirmed its function yet?!?!? :thinking: :nana:

BTW, I saw someone in your "sales" thread commented that this mod compromises the water resistant integrity of the light. Not so. This is no different in function than "locking out" the switch.


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## 4sevens (Nov 15, 2005)

McGizmo said:


> Uh you are selling this mod and haven't even confirmed its function yet?!?!? :thinking: :nana:
> 
> BTW, I saw someone in your "sales" thread commented that this mod compromises the water resistant integrity of the light. Not so. This is no different in function than "locking out" the switch.



Heheh... Oh it works great! If you don't mind a twisty Fenix!  Mines been
running on low for over a day now  I think at 30ma, a 2500mah AA should
run about 3.5 days 

Yeah, I wouldn't twist much underwater 

BTW, the McLux PD is still my EDC :nana:


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## cy (Nov 15, 2005)

EZ 15 min two stage fenix mod...

instructions moved to here..
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1178451#post1178451


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## wwglen (Nov 15, 2005)

CY --

Thanks for the pictures. I haven't had a chance to take any.

I put one lead into the through hole because it helped me hole the resistor for soldering.

Very easy wasn't it.

wwglen


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## McGizmo (Nov 15, 2005)

Cool! That is easier than the smd method!


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## cy (Nov 15, 2005)

since two stage switch works so slick. why not 14500 li-ion like my stainless L1+. 

NOT... draws 2.2amp on high. sure reciple for a dead emitter. 
emitter must be really low vf to draw 2.2amps in direct drive. 

Stainless L1+ only draws 550 milliamps with 14500. must use different board than L1-P 2.5v

two stage will not work on stainless version due to extra current path provided by SS.


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## jtice (Nov 15, 2005)

Just did it ! 

Super simple, and yet effective.

I generally hate *[EDIT]twisties*, (not clickies), but this makes the Fenix even more usable !

~John


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## McGizmo (Nov 15, 2005)

I don't dislike clickies at all but have never warmed to the reverse clickie. However, I will take two level output to a clickie, any day! :thumbsup:


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## Dr_Joe (Nov 16, 2005)

Too cool ! I was just thinking how much I wished my Fenix were 2 stage. I'll give it a shot this weekend  

:thanks:


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## idleprocess (Nov 16, 2005)

Nice!

'Guess I'll jump on this bandwagon also... 'wonder if something similar would work for the QIII?


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## wwglen (Nov 16, 2005)

If I rememer right the Q-III does NOT have a lockout position on the switch.

Also the switched contact is UNDER the switch and would be hard to get to.


wwglen


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## jtice (Nov 16, 2005)

OOPS !,
Edited my post above, 
ment to say that I generally hate Twisties, not clickies. 

Great little mod, and couldnt be any simpler to do.
I have mine at home running on low now, 
on a 2400 mAh Powerizer cell, should do over 3 days 

~John


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## savumaki (Nov 16, 2005)

I guess I'll have to keep waiting; I'm like others that hate a reverse clicky but that said I also have no need of a two stage switch, HOWEVER;
if a momentary *ON* switch were to come down the pike it would surely attract my attention; JMHO.

Karl


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## chrisse242 (Nov 16, 2005)

Wwglen :twothumbs:

Great mod, I just did it and it works perfectly. Makes the light of the year even more usefull.

Great Job!!!

Chrisse


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## bbaker22 (Nov 16, 2005)

Where (common US sources) do you pick up the appropriate type of wrench to remove the switch assembly?

Thanks,
baker


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## wwglen (Nov 16, 2005)

Just use a pait of needle nose pliers (with a small point).

Hold the pliers open slightly and insert one jaw point into each depression on the retaining ring. Push down firmly and slowly turn either the tail cap or the pliers to unscrew the retaining ring. Once it get past the initial turn or so uou can just put the point of a ball point pin in one of the depressions and unscrew it the rest of the way.

wwglen



bbaker22 said:


> Where (common US sources) do you pick up the appropriate type of wrench to remove the switch assembly?
> 
> Thanks,
> baker


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## bbaker22 (Nov 16, 2005)

wwglen said:


> Just use a pait of needle nose pliers (with a small point).
> 
> wwglen



Perfect, no need to buy more tools...

Thanks,
baker


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## idleprocess (Nov 16, 2005)

bbaker22 said:


> Where (common US sources) do you pick up the appropriate type of wrench to remove the switch assembly?
> 
> Thanks,
> baker


I was able to remove mine with a stiff dentists' pick. I'd think that a scratch awl would work fine... but small needlenose pliers would be best. It's not like the switch assembly is really torqued in there.


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## cy (Nov 16, 2005)

EZ 15 fenix mod moved to here:

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1178451#post1178451


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## BentHeadTX (Nov 16, 2005)

The pictures don't show up for me...actually, no pictures show up for me! No more icon groupings either  Well, I will take the switch apart and go by all your excellent instructions and should be able to figure it out. Now to find a resistor so I can have an emergency light with days of runtime and be able to throw way out there when needed.


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## Niteowl (Nov 17, 2005)

I like.......just happen to have a fresh pack of those RS resistors in my box. As said before, makes a great light better! The low power will be great for kid checking and toy avoidance manuevers. I'll probably use low more then half the time. Will have to wait until tomorrow as I must force myself to turn in. :sleepy: 

wwglen, :goodjob:


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## cy (Nov 17, 2005)

benthead, PM me your email and I send pic's


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## Hondo (Nov 18, 2005)

Hey wwglen, you da man! :rock: 


My mileage did vary, as I wanted my low to keep up with a basic 5 mm light, and mine did not measure up at 10 Ohms. So in went a second 10 Ohm to kick it down to 5 Ohms, and I love it! Measures 80 mA on my meter, so run time is still silly. Now about as bright as a good keychain 5 mm, not quite the total output of the Dorcy AAA, but brighter at the center spot, of course, due to the Fenix beam shape.

Too cool!


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## bbaker22 (Nov 18, 2005)

Thanks for the mod instructions. This was easy even for me (a first time modder w/ shady soldering skills).

baker


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## Niteowl (Nov 18, 2005)

Great simple mod. Most anyone with an iron could do it. Took me a little longer than the others as my soldering skills are a little rusty. Low is a little dimmer than my Ultra-G which is perfect for me. It'll be easy on the eyes if I have to get up in the "middle" of the night. Recommend this mod highly. 

If you can't easily obtain a resistor, I've got a couple extra. PM an address and I'll mail one.


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## idleprocess (Nov 18, 2005)

Just finished it - works great! Only issue with my Fenix is that it's easier to remove the head than the tailcap... so I guess I'll just use that for activation.


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## rmacias (Nov 19, 2005)

I just did the mod on both of my new Fenix L1P's, one with a 15 ohm and the other with 10 ohm resistor and both work great. This is a highly recommended mod. These little Fenix torches are sweet! :rock: 

RJM


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## scuba (Nov 19, 2005)

rmacias said:


> I just did the mod on both of my new Fenix L1P's, one with a 15 ohm and the other with 10 ohm resistor and both work great. This is a highly recommended mod. These little Fenix torches are sweet! :rock:
> 
> RJM



So, wich one would you suggest? 10 or 15?


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## TrueBlue (Nov 19, 2005)

Use the 10 ohm.


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## rmacias (Nov 19, 2005)

scuba said:


> So, wich one would you suggest? 10 or 15?


 
The wife's L1P got the 10 ohm and I did mine with the 15 because I like my low switch a little dimmer. I will try to get some beamshots posted for comparison.

RJM


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## greenLED (Nov 19, 2005)

That'd me awesome, rmacias!
:thanks:


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## scuba (Nov 19, 2005)

Thanks, that would be fantastic.


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## rmacias (Nov 19, 2005)

greenLED said:


> That'd me awesome, rmacias!


 

Here you go:

The first picture is slightly over exposed to show the difference in the beams.

The 10 ohm is on the left and the 15 ohm on the right.





Here is what the 15 ohm beam looks like in real life.





And here is the 10 ohm.





RJM


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## carlsjrman (Nov 20, 2005)

which amount of resistance would result in brightness equivalent to an old infinity (non-ultra) task light?


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## rmacias (Nov 20, 2005)

carlsjrman said:


> which amount of resistance would result in brightness equivalent to an old infinity (non-ultra) task light?


 
I'm not sure but I added a few more photos to the above post. This should give you a little better idea of the difference between both resistors.

RJM


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## greenLED (Nov 20, 2005)

rmacias, :twothumbs :kewlpics:


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## TX Silver (Nov 20, 2005)

carlsjrman said:


> which amount of resistance would result in brightness equivalent to an old infinity (non-ultra) task light?


 
Was curious about this as well, so I just took a look. 10 ohm is definitely brighter.

From rmacias' post, I'd go with the 15 ohm.

TX


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## wwglen (Nov 20, 2005)

I did my inital testing with with 10, 20 and 50 ohms:

Here are the quick results:

Resistance values are approximate.

10 Ohm -- Just right for me a little less than an arc AAA (old style) but MORE throw.

20 Ohm -- Good for close up in a pretty dark room. Still a lot of throw and you could read and move around after you eyes got used to it.

50 Ohms -- A slight glow which would make a good "find me" mode. You can read with it if you have GOOD eyes and hold the light close. You can bairly see enough to move around a dark room with adjusted eyes but I wouldn't count on it.

I didn't measure current flows but the 50 Ohm would probably be in the < 1 mA range based on the brightness compaired to a MJLED running at 4-5 mA.


wwglen


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## lahjik (Nov 20, 2005)

I like the idea of having a "find me" mode. If it is low enough, it makes for a very nice bedside light. With recharageables, it would still last a very long time and then you wouldn't even need to twist on/off. Would that have any negative effects on the LED long term?


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## wwglen (Nov 20, 2005)

An ultro-low light level shouldn't affect the LED at all.

wwglen


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## idleprocess (Nov 20, 2005)

It's more likely to effect the driver if it can't handle the undervoltage. The LED is happy as can be with reduced current - less heat, longer life.


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## Xygen (Nov 23, 2005)

After finding the clickie to bad for on off operation, I decided to mod mine too. Took a 14 ohm resistor (measured 13,2 ohm). And I have to say, that is the lowest I would recommend. 20 will be too dark. 10 will be just right. IMO.
I also put a shim between the clickie and the rubber cap. So its a little firmer.
Thank you guys!


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## Dr_Joe (Nov 24, 2005)

I finally got around to this mod and all I can say is many thanks "wwglen"

As a 2 stage the Fenix is superb ! :thanks:


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## wwglen (Nov 24, 2005)

Glad everyone like it. 

And so EASY too.


wwglen


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## Solstice (Nov 24, 2005)

Can anyone with a 5 ohm mod chime in here as to what that is like? Some folks said the 10ohm was too dim for reading, but I wouldn't want it to be so bright as to glare off of the page. Do most of you with the 10ohm think it would be adequate to read by?


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## idleprocess (Nov 24, 2005)

10 ohm is more than adequate for reading. I'd say that at 10 ohms, output is greater than a typical 5mm keychain light.


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## Dr_Joe (Nov 25, 2005)

Solstice said:


> Can anyone with a 5 ohm mod chime in here as to what that is like? Some folks said the 10ohm was too dim for reading, but I wouldn't want it to be so bright as to glare off of the page. Do most of you with the 10ohm think it would be adequate to read by?


 
I think the 10 ohm is good enough for reading but I guess it depends how good your eyes are :candle: 
Here's another idea ! The resistors are cheap enough, why not just try a couple by "shorting" the battery negative terminal to the tube with the tailcap off using different resistors :thinking: 
That way you'll know for sure what you're getting before you install.


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## Solstice (Nov 25, 2005)

Thanks guys, sounds like the 10 ohm will fit my needs.


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## Archangel (Nov 25, 2005)

Is everyone modding L1Ps? Low would be less with an L1, right? (I'll be modding a tailcap and sending it to my sister, so i can't really try things out in advance.)


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## GJW (Nov 27, 2005)

I love mods so simple that even I can do them.

I don't think its been mentioned yet but this mod also gives you a true momentary on (in low mode only) with no twisting necessary.
As long as you press the switch you'll get low-mode.
Release the switch and you're back to off.
:goodjob:


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## jtice (Nov 27, 2005)

GJW,

Hmmm, odd mine doesnt work like that.
I have to twist to turn it on/off.

All the clickie does is swithc high/low

~John


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## idleprocess (Nov 27, 2005)

If you BARELY back off the tail (or head), you can get momentary by compressing the light enough to close the contact - like the standard "twisty" trick for momentary operation. The switch position can control the brightness level.


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## Xygen (Nov 28, 2005)

Hey! This shim between the clicky and the rubbercap does a real good job!
Now I don't have to press the button with the nail of my thumb anymore!
Anyone tried this?


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## DBrier (Nov 28, 2005)

That was easy.

I love this light even more.


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## iNDiGLo (Nov 28, 2005)

Ok folks i have a newbie question about this mod...


I did the mod and it works perfectly. The only thing i'm concerned about is on one side of the switch where i soldered the resistor i noticed the solder itself extends slightly out past the edge of the wafer. What this means is when the switch is inserted back into the endcap the solder is touching the case. I was mainly concerned about a shorting/grounding issue. Since the mod is working i'd assume i was ok.

Thoughts?

iNDiGLo


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## Beamhead (Nov 29, 2005)

wwglen, great discovery :bow:

I did this mod and love it.

Edit: I settled on 5 ohm, it suits my taste better.


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## Hondo (Nov 30, 2005)

iNDiGLo, you are probably OK due to the anodizing's inability to conduct. When I get a good solder joint with a nasty protrusion, I keep it and go in cold and file the solder back with a needle file (or Dremel where appropriate). Not hard to spin out the lock ring and take care of it if you want the peace of mind.


Beamhead, glad to hear I am not crazy (well, more than the usual, anyway), and some others are using 5 ohms for this mod now. Mine is not quite as bright as the low stage on my 301x-3, which I never thought was a real big flash in the pan, but appropriate enough with the high stage available.


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## srvctec (Dec 1, 2005)

I don't have a Fenix yet, but *will* someday.

Just a thought here for even more versatility. Since I don't have the light for first hand observation, let me know if my idea would work or not.

Would a miniature variable resistor fit in the switch or maybe fit with some Dremel work on the switch housing? I was thinking of the "barrel type" variable resistors (8-10 mm long with the adjusting screw on one end). Of course, this all depends on finding one with 5-50 ohm resistance.

I'm pretty sure I've seen this small of a variable resistor on some electronics stuff I junked out years ago, but not sure what the resistance was.


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## wwglen (Dec 1, 2005)

You might be able to fit one inside / under the srping and wire it across the switch. That way you could use a micro screwdriver and adjust it through the end of the spring without having to dissasemble the switch every time you wanted to change the value.

wwglen.


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## srvctec (Dec 1, 2005)

wwglen said:


> You might be able to fit one inside / under the srping and wire it across the switch. That way you could use a micro screwdriver and adjust it through the end of the spring without having to dissasemble the switch every time you wanted to change the value.
> 
> wwglen.



Here is what I was thinking of using:













The middle and right pots are all 4mm square and the middle one was 0-47 ohms and available for about $5 from here. I'm not sure of the dimensions of the left one, but I think it somewhere around 8mm long. Another good source for these is here. I did find several 4mm square 0-50 ohm multiturn pots when searching last night.

If I remember correctly, only the middle lead and one of the end leads will need to be used to make this work. I'm going to run out to my workshop and verify this, as I _think_ I _may_ have one of these in my toolbox.

I think this would allow one to adjust the low setting to the upcoming task at hand. For instance, one may need low to be about half as bright as high for certain tasks, but may need low to be a tenth as bright as high for reading and this can be changed easily by removing the tailcap and just turning the screw to get the appropriate brightness.


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## 4sevens (Dec 2, 2005)

Becareful, those variable resistors weren't designed for power.
Think, near high you get close to 1000mah of current through the
battery. At 1.25v, it's over one watt. You'll fry your pots quickly!


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## srvctec (Dec 5, 2005)

_*Never mind*_ on the variable resistor for the mod. Got my L1P today and already made the mod with a 2 x10 ohm resistors for a total resistance of 5 ohms. There's definitely not enough room for a variable resistor in there.

Now if I can just make up my mind if the 10 ohm is right for me or not- it just doesn't seem bright enough- it wasn't- just added another 10 ohm. Now if we could find a way to make this thing a 3 way switch, that'd be perfect for me- 10 ohm for reading, 5 ohm for general use and full on for that extra throw when needed.


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## Solstice (Dec 5, 2005)

10 ohm is good enough for me.

I posted in 4sevens thread, but I'll also mention it here: Using the tailcap on my v2.0, low looks brighter than on my 2.5. I guess it could just be an illusion based on tint as I can't see them side by side, but I tried it several times and that's the way it looks to me. Can anyone offer a hypothesis for this, or am I just nuts?


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## wwglen (Dec 6, 2005)

My GUESS is that since the V2.0 is driving the LED at a lower initial current then the resistor has less affect on current flowing from the battery than on the V2.5

I do NOT have a V2.5 so I can't run any comparisions though.

wwglen


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## wwglen (Dec 6, 2005)

Now we want a three way switch???

Maybe a remvable resistive ring that fits inside the switch between the bottom of the battery tube and the contact plate on the switch.

If this ring has 5 ohms and you have a 5 ohm resistor in the switch you could have:

Without ring:
Full power --> High low power --> twist off

With ring:
High low power --> Low Low power --> twist off

I don't need it and would probably lose the ring.

wwglen.


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## Solstice (Dec 6, 2005)

Thanks for your imput wwglen, even if I'm not sure I understand it (I'm not an engineering type ). 

I decided I'm not nuts because I compared the output alongside my Jil DD. 
On low v2.0 = brighter than DD, v2.5 = dimmer than DD. 

I can see why Hondo felt like it was a case of high too high, low to low with 10 ohms since the 2.5 is much more extremely different from one stage to the other. With the 2.0, the two stages aren't quite as far apart from each other- your eyes don't need to totally readapt.


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## Mike abcd (Dec 6, 2005)

I found 5 ohms on my L1P v2.5 had about the same total output as a stock Dorcy 1AAA judging from ceiling bounce. flashlightreviews.com puts that at about 4 lumens. The Dorcy had a much brighter spill and less throw. I found the 5 ohm L1P spill to be too low for general use although fine in the house or with night adjusted vision. A Nichia modded Dorcy 1AAA blew it away in total output. I'd guess the modded Dorcy has at least 6-7 lumens total.

I was looking for the L1P low to be suitable for general use including outdoors so I could get a very useable level of general purpose light with extended run times while reserving the L1P high for the occasions when I needed/wanted it. The Nichia modded Dorcy has become my benchmark for that and the 5 ohm L1P didn't cut it for me.

I'm currently running a single 1/4 watt 2.7 ohm for the L1P low and much happier. Total output is very close to the Nichia Dorcy 1AAA and run times should be around 15-16 hours off a 2500 mAH Energizer. I find the 2.7 ohm L1P low meets my general use criteria including occasional candle tail stand and rarely have need for high. It even has decent throw, much better than the Nichia modded Dorcy. Although the spill is still dimmer, it's pretty decent.

Mike


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## wwglen (Dec 6, 2005)

I am going to make one up for my Father in Law.

I think I will go with 5 ohms for him as his eyes are not as good.

wwglen


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## Macaw (Dec 9, 2005)

I went with the 5 ohm mod. Works great. If my fumble-fingers can do it, anyone can!


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## MillerMods (Dec 13, 2005)

I was just messing around with the 3 watt Li-ion driver for the Fenix and the two way switch works nicely with it too. With one 10 ohm it was drawing a mean voltage across the resistor of 1.5 volts on my oscilliscope. The current draw is around 150 mA @ 3.8 volts = .57 watts minus .225 watts resistor loss equals .345 watts minus losses of 10 percent equals .31 watts to the Lux. 5 hours of run time with the 2 way switch on low. Thanks for the idea! I love it.


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## Solstice (Dec 13, 2005)

Can anyone conclusively say whether this mod works with the L2P? I realize that the switch is the same, so theoretically, it WILL work. The question is whether the resistors being used on this mod can handle the increased (2x) imput from the batteries. I figure the the 5ohm mod stands a better chance of being safe in the L2P because of the 2 parallel resistors, but I'm not very knowlegable regarding such things. If indeed they are compatable (10ohm mod included), I'll be ordering an L2P shortly...
Thanks in advance for the info,
Jon


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## wwglen (Dec 13, 2005)

Since the L2P has better regulation it will PROBABLY be VERY picky on the resistor value used.

wwglen


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## Solstice (Dec 13, 2005)

I look forward to someone who knows what they are doing coming up with a solution to this (L2P 2 stage mod).


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## 45/70 (Dec 17, 2005)

Solstice said:


> I look forward to someone who knows what they are doing coming up with a solution to this (L2P 2 stage mod).



Well, I'm sure I'm not qualified, I don't meet the requirement you specified.

However, to my knowledge, neither the L1P or the L2P actually has a regulation circuit. They have a booster circuit which alows them to drive the emitter at a voltage more appropriate than the 1.5/3 volts supplied. I would expect the target voltage is the same for both lights. So, I can't see the L2P being much different than the L1P.

A 3 volt circuit is more efficient than a 1.5 volt circuit and the load is divided between 2 cells in the L2P so, that would probably give it advantage enough to be a tad brighter. This would probably mean that to achieve the same brightness level with this mod, the L2P would require a higher ohm resistor than the L1P.

As far as what value to use, well, I modded my L1P. Going through this thread and, any other for that matter you quickly learn that what is "right" for one person isn't necessairly "right" for another. I pretty much figured the 10 ohm mod wouldn't be what I was looking for but, I had some radioshaft resistors around so I tried one 10 ohm. Well, that just wasn't bright enough. Having a bunch of them I went ahead and tried two (5 ohms). That didn't get it either for me.

From this "research" I decided that what I probably wanted was a 2 ohm. A friend had some resistors but the best we could come up with was 3.9 ohm. I thought well ok, I'll try one and if that doesn't float my boat I can just put another one in (1.95 ohms). That's what I ended up doing. It puts out about half the light and will probably run, roughly, 4 times longer than on high.

My point is, you will probably have to make an educated guess and, maybe, you will be lucky, maybe not. Just get a few resistors and try them out.

On another note, I wonder how many people realize that if/when the HA III wears off the threads of the body/tailcap and makes contact, you won't be able to turn your light off. Just makes flashlights more exciting, I guess.

Good luck!

Dave

EDIT: After looking at the runtime graphs at Lighthound, I see that the L2P is obviously fully regulated! My mistake! It also has much higher output than the L1P. This would, of course, change the resistor values used to achieve equivalent output between the two lights.

Dave


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## Lunal_Tic (Dec 17, 2005)

45/70 said:


> On another note, I wonder how many people realize that if/when the HA III wears off the threads of the body/tailcap and makes contact, you won't be able to turn your light off. Just makes flashlights more exciting, I guess.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Dave



You can try plumber's teflon tape on the threads to keep them insulated. 

-LT


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## MillerMods (Dec 17, 2005)

Lunal_Tic said:


> You can try plumber's teflon tape on the threads to keep them insulated.
> 
> -LT



That's what I did and it worked pretty well, although if I tightened it too much it would still make contact. Maybe if I add some more teflon tape it will work better. Meanwhile, it works great and I love it with my new 1.7 watt driver.


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## wwglen (Dec 18, 2005)

If the threads wear off on the switch end you could use the head end to be the twisty.

wwglen


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## MillerMods (Dec 18, 2005)

wwglen said:


> If the threads wear off on the switch end you could use the head end to be the twisty.
> 
> wwglen



The tail cap is what we're talking about.


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## Hondo (Dec 18, 2005)

I get the idea of the HAIII wearing off and making contact through the threads before the retainer ring is tightened against the end of the battery tube. But if that is going to happen through any significant amount of use, where are all of the angry mobs with Gerber Infinity Ultras, with only HAII finish, that won't turn off? My guess, having sanded my way through the Gerber finish to polish a reflector  , is that this won't happen any time soon in any reasonable environment.


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## Lunal_Tic (Dec 18, 2005)

IIRC the Infinity doesn't have coated threads and the switch mechanism moves the battery + away from the circuit board breaking contact to turn off. I don't think this applies to the Fenix since you would be completing the - side of the circuit through the threads rather than the spring/contact ring on the switch.

-LT


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## 45/70 (Dec 18, 2005)

Lunal_Tic said:


> You can try plumber's teflon tape on the threads to keep them insulated.
> 
> -LT


I hadn't thought of that. Good idea!

If all else fails, you could just remove the mod and still have a nice light.

Dave


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## 45/70 (Dec 18, 2005)

Lunal_Tic said:


> IIRC the Infinity doesn't have coated threads and the switch mechanism moves the battery + away from the circuit board breaking contact to turn off. I don't think this applies to the Fenix since you would be completing the - side of the circuit through the threads rather than the spring/contact ring on the switch.
> 
> -LT


Exactly. You have to remember that by installing the resistor(s) you are effectively shorting the switch. The Infinity uses a different means of disconnecting the battery. With the modded Fenix your _only _on/off switch is the twist function. This relies on the body being electrically isolated from the tailcap (HA III) except, when the unanodized body end meets the retaining ring in the tailcap ("on" when tightened). If the HA III wears off the threads of _both _the body _and_ the tailcap, this isolation is lost.

I'm with Hondo in that this probably won't happen soon or, at least I hope not! HA III _is_ hard stuff.

I don't want to sound like I don't like this mod. wwglen definitely came up with a good one! And, hey, I did it!  

Dave


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## Lunal_Tic (Dec 18, 2005)

Aaarrggh! Rat Shack only had 1/2 watt 10ohm resistors and they are too big.

-LT


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## 45/70 (Dec 19, 2005)

Edited my original post in this thread (#84) to reflect my substantial increase in knowledge (and obvious ignorance) about the L2P's regulation. Oh, well, wonder what I'll learn today! 

Dave


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## Hondo (Dec 19, 2005)

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Lunal_Tic*
_IIRC the Infinity doesn't have coated threads and the switch mechanism moves the battery + away from the circuit board breaking contact to turn off. I don't think this applies to the Fenix since you would be completing the - side of the circuit through the threads rather than the spring/contact ring on the switch.

-LT_



Exactly as you state for the old *CMG* Infinity, works like an Arc through the threads, head twisty. The new *Gerber* Infinity has a tailcap which is basically the same as a Fenix without the clicky switch, turns on by connecting a metal plate with the bare end of the battery tube. Bonus: Gerber head is not potted in epoxy and is MUCH easier to mod with Nichia CS.


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## Lunal_Tic (Dec 19, 2005)

Thanks for the info. All my Gerber and CMG Infinities are of the old style. I'll have to get one of the new ones to see about that mod you mention.

-LT


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