# Review: Convoy S2+ (the red one!) – Fantastic 18650 EDC



## Chicken Drumstick (Jan 30, 2015)

*Convoy S2+ 18650 – XM-L2 T6-3B 7135*8*​ 




*Declaration & Thanks:*
This light was supplied for review by Simon @ Convoy flashlights.

*Conclusion Summary:*
The S2+ is an ideal and brilliantly capable EDC torch. With only one tiny minus that is doesn’t come supplied with a pocket clip (but can be ordered separately). Quality, construction, performance and ability all easily exceed its price point. And to date, this S2+ has probably the best switch I’ve used on a flashlight yet. Oh, and I adore the colour.

The S2+ with some of its fellow Convoy models.



M1 | M2 | S2+ | S4 | EagleTac 18650

*Manufacture Specs:*
Aesthetic
MATERIAL Aluminum Alloy
Electronic Components
LOW VOLTAGE WARNING Yes
OUTPUT CURRENT 1050 mA
REVERSE POLARITY PROTECTION Yes
Flashlights
FLASHLIGHT MODES Group 1: Lo (5%) > Mid (40%) > Hi (100%);
Group 2: Lo (5%) > Mid (40%) > Hi (100%) > Strobe > SOS
LENS TYPE Glass Lens
MODE MEMORY Yes
REFLECTOR TYPE Aluminum Textured/OP
SWITCH PLACEMENT Tail
SWITCH TYPE Clicky
TAIL STAND Yes
Light Sources
LIGHT SOURCE BIN XML2 U2-1A
LIGHT SOURCE BRAND Cree
LIGHT SOURCE COLOR 6500-7000K
LIGHT SOURCE MODEL XM-L2
LUMENS (MAX) 490LM
Power & Batteries
BATTERIES INCLUDED No
BATTERY TYPE 18650 lithium (protected or unprotected)
REQUIRED BATTERY COUNT 1
Manufacturer
BRAND Convoy
Dimensionsus | metric
HEIGHT 118 mm
WIDTH 24.1 mm

Customizable LED:XML2 T6-3B / T6-4C / T5-5B / T4-7A
Customizable driver: 7135*4 / 7135*6 / 7135*8

*Info about my reviews and testing:*
I like to keep my reviews fairly informal and not overly technical. There are plenty of talented people with fancy measuring devices to offer more technical detail. What I want to do is give an honest appraisal of owning and using this torch, and what a regular punter will make of it.

*What’s in the box?*




The S2+ like many of the S series Convoys came in a nice box with foam cut-outs. In the box is the S2+ and a sturdy looking multi-link lanyard.





*Exterior Design & Ergonomics:*
The S2+ is available in different colours, this is the wonderful new anodised red. It is a semi-matt finish and is flawless, while looking superb. And a refreshing change from the regular black anodising of most lights.

The S2+ consists of 3 sections; head, body and tail cap. The threads are all square cut and the tail cap caters for lockout.









The knurling is mild, but sufficient for grip and makes it nicer in the pocket.

There are two holes on the tail cap for lanyard attachment, or if you prefer for the screw on Convoy pocket clip (something I wish was supplied with the light).

The switch is recessed and allows easy, stable tail standing.

*Beam:*
The S2+ uses a shallow OP reflector.





This offers up a lovely floody light, with smooth transition from hot spot to spill beam.

Convoy offer several different emitter options for the S2+, from the latest high binned CW XM-Ls as well as Neutral and Warm White options.

My example is a neutral 3B tint. And I have to say this is a wonderful tint, the beam shot photos below will really highlight this. But this tint offers great colours and depth but doesn’t look yellow or brown. When you can get a beam looking as good as this, it makes you wonder why some people still opt for CW emitters.

Sadly there is no XP-G2 option for the S2+, it would lose its floodiness, but I think this emitter would work well in this size of light, if you require something with a little more throw.

*Switch, UI & Performance:*





The switch deserves special mention. This is a new switch type for me, it’s a reverse clicky, but feels like a piston switch to use. Only the middle part of the switch moved in and out, while the outer section remains in place.

The switch is wonderfully positive and smooth to use. And makes half click mode changes much easier than they are with the traditional rubber booted switches. I seriously hope to see this switch find a home on more Convoy flashlights.

If I had to sight a single item about the S2+ that elevates is above other torches of similar ilk, then the switch is it, it really is that good.





The S2+ uses the 105C based driver. As per the emitter, this is also customisable, from 3 to 8 7135 chips at the time of ordering. I opted for the 8*7135 driver, which should offer up a beefy 2.8amps to the LED.

A nice thing about this driver is it is also user customisable. By default it has 5 modes:

Low – Mid – High – Strobe – SOS

But not everybody will want the disco modes. So if you switch to the Low mode and wait a few seconds, the light will flash once. Turn it off and on again and it is now a 3 mode light:

Low –Mid – High

It also has memory.

Giving the end user this easy ability without the need of a soldering iron is fantastic.

The S2+ has the latest version of this driver, you’ll note older ones had stars on the underside to allow you to select different mode groups by soldering a star to the negative contact (as well as the method above).





I did take some tail cap readings using a freshly charged Samsung 25R @ 4.19v

High = 2.82 amps
Mid =
Low =

So according to my DMM, the 8*7135 driver does indeed offer up 2.8 amps as promised.

*In Actual Usage:*
Size wise the S2+ compares favourably with other tube style 18650 lights. I like the fact it is a smooth finish, this way nothing snags on clothing or your pocket as you carry it or use it.




Solarforce T1 | Convoy S2+ | Convoy S4 | EagleTac D25LC2 Mini

Not being supplied with a pocket clip means there is no anti roll device as standard, although you can purchase a sturdy pocket clip separately that would solve this. I have the clips on order as I type this, as I’m not a fan of a torch this size floating about in my jeans pocket and prefer to clip it to the inside of my pocket.

If you prefer to carry the light in a coat pocket, this is a non-issue.

I found the beam, tint and UI to all be great for EDC use. The low isn’t a moonlight, but it is a suitable low setting, and the floody beam would make this ideal for reading or map work with ease.

On high it does heat up pretty fast, but outside with your hand round the torch it can run like this for semi long durations before you have to step down to mid.






*Beam shots & Comparisons:*
Being an XM-L2 in a small reflector the S2+ is nothing but floody, but one shouldn’t expect anything else.

The 3B tint however and the smoothness of the beam are however very impressive.









I decided to compare to S2+ to 3 other of my EDC 18650 lights.

-Convoy S4 Nichia 219B Qlite 3.0A
-Convoy S4 XP-G2 5A2 Qlite 3.04A
-Lumintop SD20 XM-L2

I compared it to these lights to give a comparison of beam profile, tint and price point.





I think the 3B tint stands up well to the 92CRI Nichia and compares favourably to the output of the Lumintop.






The XM-L2 doesn’t throw as well as the XP-G2 does, but no surprises there. But the beam is smooth and just look at how wide an area it illuminates.






*Video Review:*
TBA


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## ChibiM (Jan 30, 2015)

Thanks for the review Chicken Drumstick!


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## Speedfreakz (Jan 30, 2015)

Nice review. Love the color of this light


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## gunga (Jan 30, 2015)

Love that switch!


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## robert.t (Jan 30, 2015)

gunga said:


> Love that switch!



I too am intrigued by this. I think I could perhaps justify a new WW light*...

* No _real_ justification, but I do have _only one_ warm-white light and I'm using it a lot right now.



Chicken Drumstick said:


> A nice thing about this driver is it is also user customisable. By default it has 5 modes:
> 
> Low – Mid – High – Strobe – SOS
> 
> ...



(emphasis mine)

I really like that the disco modes can be turned off, but I'm not a big fan of mode memory. I do prefer LMH though, so I might be able to put up with it. Just to clarify, is it actual mode memory, or is it just a memory of the mode-group (i.e., whether or not the disco modes are enabled).

Also the described method for changing the mode group sounds a bit strange. What if you just happen to use low a lot, or you switch to low before turning off to work around the mode memory: couldn't you accidentally switch groups by mistake? Also sounds like the flash could be annoying (I do use low a lot). I quite like the method used by EagleTac, Xeno (and probably many others), which is 5 rapid twists, or 5 rapid half-presses to switch mode groups. It's easy to do when you intend to, but hard to do by accident.

The only thing worse than strobe in the main sequence is strobe _unexpectedly_ in the main sequence. It sounds like that could be a real problem here.


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## ChrisGarrett (Jan 30, 2015)

I've got the WW S2, the NW M2 and the CW M2...all with 2.8A drivers. For the S2, it heats up quickly, but that's what medium and low are for!

Along with 2xLG D1 3000 4.35v cells, I think I paid <$69 shipped for all of it, from FT.

Chris


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## Chicken Drumstick (Jan 30, 2015)

robert.t said:


> I too am intrigued by this. I think I could perhaps justify a new WW light*...
> 
> * No _real_ justification, but I do have _only one_ warm-white light and I'm using it a lot right now.
> 
> ...


It has proper memory. Ie it turns on in the mode you left it in. With 3 modes it's fine and quick to click through if you want something else. Personally I prefer lights to come on in high when they are a single button simple UI. So memory is the only solution to compromise and at least let the light turn on in the mode you use the most. 

I have a couple of Convoys with this UI and haven't yet accidentally switched modes. The blink/flash is noticeable, but if that's it's only vice, then it does better than my Olight S15 which has several issues and costs 3x as much.


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## Poppy (Jan 30, 2015)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> I have a couple of Convoys with this UI and haven't yet accidentally switched modes. *The blink/flash is noticeable, but if that's it's only vice,* then it does better than my Olight S15 which has several issues and costs 3x as much.


CD,
Thanks for the review.
I really like the Convoy lights! AND their UI. 

I typically choose to drop the blinkies, and I find that the blink/flash is a reminder to me that it has blinkies, and how to get them back. 

I misplaced my S2 XML U2 driven at 1400ma. I just ordered a S2+ XM-L2 T6-4C driven at 1400ma. It should give me about 45 lumens for 40 hours on low, which is really nice for a power outage. About 600 lumens on high, is more than what I need for most tasks. 

I, not too long ago bought their C8 driven at 2.8 amps. with a smooth reflector, another nice light, and at a great price!


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## incd (Jan 31, 2015)

Hi,

Thanks for the review. What kind of pocket clip that will fit for this light and where to buy it?


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## Chicken Drumstick (Feb 1, 2015)

incd said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thanks for the review. What kind of pocket clip that will fit for this light and where to buy it?


http://m.aliexpress.com/item/2049685616.html?tracelog=storedetail2mobilesitedetail


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## Chicken Drumstick (Feb 1, 2015)

It's the same clip as on other Convoy lights (see the first group pic in the review). That link is if you want to buy direct from Convoy. Lots of other places sell them too though. 

While waiting for my clips to turn up I took the clip off of my Convoy S4 and it fits the S2+ perfectly.


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## magicstone12 (Feb 1, 2015)

love the beautiful color


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## Fireclaw18 (Feb 1, 2015)

gunga said:


> Love that switch!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums



Me too!

Wish I could order just the switch so I could swap it into my modded 3,000 lumen S2+ mini (18350 S2+ mini modded with Carclo 10507 optic widened for use with XPL, triple XPL T6 neutral, copper noctigon, FET driver, and pill shrunk so light fits a larger IMR 18500 battery)


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## incd (Feb 2, 2015)

Just saw that the S2+ grey doesn't have same switch with the red one.

Red color is too catchy for me


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## robert.t (Feb 2, 2015)

incd said:


> Just saw that the S2+ grey doesn't have same switch with the red one.
> 
> Red color is too catchy for me



Darn. I'd prefer grey too, or black even. Might still go for the red anyway if it's cheap enough.


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## SuLyMaN (Mar 26, 2015)

Thanks for the review. Is the light regulated and what are the runtimes on the different modes? Thanks


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 26, 2015)

SuLyMaN said:


> Thanks for the review. Is the light regulated and what are the runtimes on the different modes? Thanks


Yes fully regulated using a 7135 chip based linear driver. Linear drivers are pretty standard on single cell lights.

Regulation will remain so long as your battery has suitable voltage to maintain regulation.

Runtimes will vary depending on what battery you use and what driver spec. Convoy allow you to choose the output of the driver at the time of ordering. L and M output modes are then a percentage of the H mode current.


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## gen127 (Jun 6, 2015)

I got one of these recently. Seems to be be a very good EDC light. I like the switch, the neutral tint, and the overall quality -compared to price. It gets hot quickly when on high, but I expected that.


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## fishx65 (Jul 26, 2015)

Finally got the red S2+ I ordered from Gearbest. $13.00 shipped is a steal so I just got done ordering two more. This is the compact 18650 light I've been looking for!!!!!!!! Perfect size, tint and beam pattern for all my hunting and fishing adventures. Pretty amazing what 13 bucks will get ya these days!!!!


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## gunga (Jul 26, 2015)

Be careful. There have been a lot of issues lately at gearbest because of fake convoy red s2+. Check the retaining ring for the driver. If it's brass, it's likely real. If it's alloy it's likely fake. The fake ones are usually lower quality.


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## fishx65 (Jul 27, 2015)

gunga said:


> Be careful. There have been a lot of issues lately at gearbest because of fake convoy red s2+. Check the retaining ring for the driver. If it's brass, it's likely real. If it's alloy it's likely fake. The fake ones are usually lower quality.



Thanks G, The one I received has an alloy retaining ring so it might be a fake. Quality feels pretty good and the light functions fine so far. Kinda wish I didn't have two more on the way from Gearbest if these are fakes!!!!


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## gunga (Jul 27, 2015)

Quality of the fakes varies. Some good. Some not. So you could have a good one. Note. Gearbest is aware so you can do a Paypal claim if unsatisfied.


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## chuckhov (Jul 27, 2015)

Also check the switch - The Real one is Stainless Steel, while the Fake one is Aluminum.

I have one of the Real ones and am very pleased with it.

I would like for the tint to be a little less yellow, but that involves an "A" or a "D" emitter. - 3D - 4A - 4D, etc and those are hard to find:-(

http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg

Thanks,
-Chuck.


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## fishx65 (Jul 27, 2015)

Well this makes 3 fakes I have gotten in the last month. I'm pretty happy with the fake S2+ and don't mind that I have two more on the way. The two fake Hugsby XP-1's I got are pretty bad but I can give them away to my enemies!!!! So now the Chinese are making fakes of their own flashlights???


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## Phlogiston (Sep 30, 2015)

I have three of these lights now, and I'm really happy with them. Your review was very helpful in deciding whether to try one or not. Thanks :thumbsup: 

It took a while to nail down which customisation options to get, though  I've posted some comparison tables here on CPF which I hope will make the number-crunching a bit easier for anyone else in the same boat.


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## Danielsan (Oct 27, 2015)

chuckhov said:


> Also check the switch - The Real one is Stainless Steel, while the Fake one is Aluminum.
> 
> I have one of the Real ones and am very pleased with it.
> 
> ...




How can you check if its Alu or SS?

I dont know if i have a fake or not but it looks really good for a budget light and the machining and the contacts looking not bad. The board of the head says N A N J G and a number.


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## LEDeez (Nov 2, 2015)

Very nice review! I wanted to order a S2+ until i read some people saying you can't do half presses and have to do a full click every time to change the mode. After reading your review it does seem possible. So just to be clear, with this reverse clicky switch it is possible to change the mode by doing half presses? Do these flashlights have momentary on also or is a full click required to turn it on at first? Thank You.


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## emarkd (Nov 2, 2015)

I'm not the original reviewer but I can answer your questions. Inside all that stainless steel goodness, the switch in these lights is a normal reverse clicky. That means you can easily switch modes with a simple tap. Fully cycling the switch is not required. It does not, however, offer a momentary function. You must turn the switch all the way on to activate the light.


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## Danielsan (Nov 2, 2015)

emarkd said:


> I'm not the original reviewer but I can answer your questions. Inside all that stainless steel goodness, the switch in these lights is a normal reverse clicky. That means you can easily switch modes with a simple tap. Fully cycling the switch is not required. It does not, however, offer a momentary function. You must turn the switch all the way on to activate the light.


i can not switch the modes with a single tap, i have to do two taps for changing mode everytime or one full click.


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## LEDeez (Nov 2, 2015)

emarkd said:


> I'm not the original reviewer but I can answer your questions. Inside all that stainless steel goodness, the switch in these lights is a normal reverse clicky. That means you can easily switch modes with a simple tap. Fully cycling the switch is not required. It does not, however, offer a momentary function. You must turn the switch all the way on to activate the light.



Thank you! I plan on using the BLF A6 firmware so it seems this switch will work very well.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 3, 2015)

LEDeez said:


> Thank you! I plan on using the BLF A6 firmware so it seems this switch will work very well.




Mountain Electronics sells the *Convoy S2+*. So does the manufacturer of Convoy flashlights, Shenzhen Convoy Electronics Co., Ltd. No problem with fakes from these vendors! Simon, the owner of Shenzhen Convoy Electronics, is currently offering members of BLF a 15% discount on the blue S2+. If you send him an email, he might extend that offer to the red S2+ as well.

Mountain Electronics can also make a modded version of the S2+ that uses the same emitter, driver and firmware as the *BLF A6 Special Edition*.

The BLF driver and firmware are great because they give you seven constant brightness modes, including a sub-lumen low and a direct-drive turbo that produces anywhere from 1100 to 1400 lumens, depending on battery. I like this better than the three constant modes the stock S2+ has. 

If I were buying a stock S2+, I would go for 7135*3 or 7135*4. That way high, medium, and low modes all become more usable (at least for the way I would use the S2+). The 100% high would not overheat as quickly. Both medium and low would be lower than they are in the 7135*8 version, in the ranges I prefer. 

The S2+ has a short body tube that is sold separately. By swapping the regular tube with the short one, you create a "mini" S2+ that runs on 1x18350.

Blue and gray versions of the S2+ are currently available. Green is on the way. As I recall, the gray version does not use the steel switch. It has a "regular" switch that is covered by a rubber boot. Because of this, I think the gray S2+ it is a bit more waterproof than the colored versions. 

Are there any other differences between the gray (natural) version and the colored ones? I am not sure. I have read that the dye process used in colored anodizations limits you to type II. Natural anodization, of course, can be type III. It is possible that the gray S2+ uses type III anodization, while the colored versions use type II, but I do not know the fact.

I bought a couple of BLF A6 flashlights to have around the house as backups. They won't replace the two flashlights that are my go-to general purpose lights. Those are the *Zebralight SC62w* and the *Nitecore P36*, both of which I feel are more dependable than the A6. At the price, however, the A6 is an amazing backup.

If I did not already own the A6s, I would probably buy a couple of S2+ lights for the same purpose.

By the way, the *Convoy L2* is back in production, with a design that is close to the original available now. This light has an XM-L2 emitter in large, SMO reflector that is mounted in a 65.4mm head. It runs on 1x26650 (or 1x18650) and has a current-controlled driver that has no PWM. 

The L2 is getting good reports, but I have never tried one.


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## emarkd (Nov 3, 2015)

LEDeez said:


> Thank you! I plan on using the BLF A6 firmware so it seems this switch will work very well.


I built one like that a couple of weeks ago using mtnelectronics version of the blf fet+1 driver, TKs firmware from the A6, and a triple XP-L HI noctigon. It's an awesome little light and yes, the clicky A6 firmware works great with the steel button of the S2+. The switch has a great feel to it that makes the click timing easy to get a feel for, much better than rubber switch boots to me.

Total cost invested isn't even a fair comparison, but my BLF-inspired S2+ triple is by far a much better light than my two "real" BLF A6s.


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## LEDeez (Nov 3, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Mountain Electronics sells the *Convoy S2+*. So does the manufacturer of Convoy flashlights, Shenzhen Convoy Electronics Co., Ltd. No problem with fakes from these vendors! Simon, the owner of Shenzhen Convoy Electronics, is currently offering members of BLF a 15% discount on the blue S2+. If you send him an email, he might extend that offer to the red S2+ as well.




Thanks so much for all that great info. Everything is in my cart at Mountain Electronics. Just waiting to pull the trigger.

I really don't need the FET+7135 driver and BLF A6 firmware but it seems to have the exact settings I want. I don't need a moonlight mode but I guess it doesn't hurt to have one there if needed. I just want a light that has 5 modes. Using a scale of lumens my ideal light would be 10, 60,200,500,1000. 

My initial thought was to use the Qlite 7135 driver with the Star Off-Time firmware and use custom settings with a XP-L 3D V6. The problem is, I have no idea how to figure the percentage needed for the proper lumen rating I want. I was thinking maybe something like 1%, 6%, 20%,50%, 100% would be close.

From using the Cree product characterization tool it appears I should run @ 2.2A to a XP-L V6 to get 100% to be @ 1000 lumens which means I should remove 2 of the 7135 chips from the qlite driver. Still trying to figure out if once you have the max lumen setting, you can just use the other percents as lumen figures for example, 1% = 10 lumens, 20% = 200 lumens etc, but then I don't know exactly how the efficiency works into this and all the other factors.

But then, you add the fact that BLF A6 firmware can run either 7 mode or 4 mode. It seems the 4 mode is pretty darn close to what I am looking for and the 7 mode has exactly what I am looking for with a few extra modes. The ability to cycle through the modes forward and reverse is also a plus. To top it off, it is always nice to have a firmware that has different options that you can change in the future easily with a few clicks of the tail switch. I think I may have just solidified my decision to use the FET+7135 driver and BLF A6 firmware while writing this post. lol.


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## LEDeez (Nov 3, 2015)

emarkd said:


> I built one like that a couple of weeks ago using mtnelectronics version of the blf fet+1 driver, TKs firmware from the A6, and a triple XP-L HI noctigon. It's an awesome little light and yes, the clicky A6 firmware works great with the steel button of the S2+. The switch has a great feel to it that makes the click timing easy to get a feel for, much better than rubber switch boots to me.
> 
> Total cost invested isn't even a fair comparison, but my BLF-inspired S2+ triple is by far a much better light than my two "real" BLF A6s.



Oh my. That is one nice looking light! One other question I had is how is the stock lens that comes with the S2+? Is it worth it to upgrade to one of those AR lenses Mountain Electronics sells?


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 3, 2015)

LEDeez said:


> Thanks so much for all that great info. Everything is in my cart at Mountain Electronics. Just waiting to pull the trigger.



Go for it!

Because the A6 firmware allows you to step down as well as up, I have found that seven modes is not too many. I would feel differently if I had to cycle through 6 other levels just to step down.

Did you resist the optional short tube? It's darn cheap, but buying a high-draw 18350 (such as the purple Efest) may cost you a bit more.


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## LEDeez (Nov 3, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Go for it!
> 
> Because the A6 firmware allows you to step down as well as up, I have found that seven modes is not too many. I would feel differently if I had to cycle through 6 other levels just to step down.
> 
> Did you resist the optional short tube? It's darn cheap, but buying a high-draw 18350 (such as the purple Efest) may cost you a bit more.



I am going to get the regular tube for 18650's since I just bought 2 brand new Protected NCR18650GA's from Mountain Electronics. I am new to this flashlight thing having just got my first light 3 days ago which is a Fenix PD35 TAC. But as I am quickly becoming a flashaholic....I need moar lights!!


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 3, 2015)

Going for a custom on just your second light! I am impressed.

In many ways, the *Convoy S2+* is similar to the *Fenix PD35TAC*. Both are general purpose, 1x18650 tube lights with good flood. On high and turbo, they output enough light to throw a fair bit as well. 

As you acquire more lights, you will probably want to branch out, by getting some lights that do not duplicate what your tube lights already do. A headlamp for hands-free operation, for instance, and a small pocket or keychain light, are good candidates. 

Whichever way you go, enjoy the fun!


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## LEDeez (Nov 3, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Going for a custom on just your second light! I am impressed.
> 
> In many ways, the *Convoy S2+* is similar to the *Fenix PD35TAC*. Both are general purpose, 1x18650 tube lights with good flood. On high and turbo, they output enough light to throw a fair bit as well.
> 
> ...



Yea. I want this S2+ to have similar mode spacing as the PD35 because I think the spacing is perfect on it. The only thing I am not sure about is the side switch. Kind of awkward to find. I may sell the PD35 actually. I want a rear switch only light where you don't have to fumble around to find the side switch after turning it on with the tail switch. The TAC mode is awesome but only offers Turbo, Strobe, Low.


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## KeepingItLight (Nov 3, 2015)

One bit of advice that I am having trouble heeding is to limit the number of battery formats I am using. 

Your *Convoy S2+*, for instance, and your *Fenix PD35TAC*, both feed on 18650. If you buy a headlamp, therefore, perhaps you should limit yourself to 18650 for that. Similarly, if you buy a lantern, you could get one of the many models that run on D-cell batteries. You will probably be better off, however, it you stick to 18650.

The problem is you miss out on a lot of fun. The short tube that swaps onto a Convoy S2+ is pretty cool. Buy yourself a high-draw 18350 battery, and you have an S2+ that fits in the bottom of your pants pocket. That's nice. In my case, I have the same option with the *BLF A6 Special Edition*. 18350, here we come!

I like the narrower diameter, however, of a 1xAA flashlight for pocket carry. So now I have Eneloop and E91 Energizers in that size. Those fuel my *L3 Illumination L11C Nichia 219B* flashlight.

Next thing, I decided to buy a handful of the $7, 1xAAA *BLF-348 Special Edition* stainless-steel, tube flashlights. A single-mode at around 50 lumens is all you get, but the emitter is a high-CRI Nichia 219B. Man, I need a bunch of those for myself and also to give away! So I said hello to AAA rechargeable and E92 lithium primary batteries.

Now I am signed up for the forthcoming *BLF X5 and X6 Special Edition* flashlights. The X6 is okay. It runs on 1x18650. But the X5, it turns out, runs only on 14500 Li-ion. Uh, oh! Another battery format incoming.

From the start, however, I have always suspected that I would like the higher capacity of 26650 more than that of 18650. I think I like the larger diameter better as well. It makes for better hand-holding. 

Care to predict what will be in my future?


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## LEDeez (Nov 3, 2015)

KeepingItLight said:


> Care to predict what will be in my future?




I hear that. I have already eyeballed the 26650 lights. For now I am sticking with the 18650's. One thing I quickly learned is I probably won't be paying $70+ again for a light filled with a few chinese parts just because it has a "big name" stamped on the side when I could just build something myself in about 10 minutes using similar chinese parts for a fraction of the cost.


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## akhyar (Nov 4, 2015)

Just sharing size comparison of stock S2+, S2+ in short tubes, stock and short tubes, IMR 18350 cell and S1 Baton.


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## LEDeez (Nov 4, 2015)

I have a huge dilemma.....red S2+ or blue S2+. :laughing:


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## ChrisGarrett (Nov 5, 2015)

LEDeez said:


> I have a huge dilemma.....red S2+ or blue S2+. :laughing:



They're cheap enough where you can buy both, but switch up tint and the driver board, so they're not the same.

I bought an S2, M1 and M2 and went with three different tints on the 2.8A board.

Chris


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## Mkduffer (Dec 28, 2015)

I've been debating between the S2+, the S3 and the S4. As far as I could see, no one has asked yet, but I was curious about the IP rating of these lights. I sent an email to Simon and received the following information:


S2+ black and gray / S3 ipx8
S2+ blue / red / green IPX6

Looks like the SS switch doesn't provide protection from immersion, although it may not be just the switch. According to the literature on the BD03, it's IPX7 and it appears to have the same switch.

Mahalo


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## ven (Dec 28, 2015)

Great review! Hope mr drumstick is OK as not seen a post for a while!

MK-yes the SS switch is more susceptible to the wet stuff, thanks for the info!, i guess just dont go swimming with it :laughing: For most its a no issue, and info from China can vary on the same light(not saying Simons, general comment from various sellers with the same light). 

Simon is great to deal with, great communication and reliable to boot!

Couple of pics as it would be rude not to post, special gifts
Heat treated clip




red or blue


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## emarkd (Dec 28, 2015)

Just wanted to add that this host is now available in green:






Shorty tubes for the green aren't out yet, but you get the idea.


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## ven (Dec 28, 2015)

Yes, i want a triple green one to add to the collection, must admit i think it could be a future fav 

Very cool!!!


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## gunga (Dec 28, 2015)

I think pink may be in the works. I think.


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## emarkd (Dec 28, 2015)

A pink one got posted as an example with Convoy's new pocket clip design. 






Not my photo, by the way. That's the first we've ever heard of it, I think. He's gotta be working on it though for there to even be a prototype like this one. The clip is available now directly from Convoy, but isn't included with the lights.

Supposedly also in the works is a matte tan color, like sand. Should be pretty sharp with that black clip on it.


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## ven (Dec 28, 2015)

I was going to say pass on that when gunga posted about the pink..............that looks pretty cool tbh, surprised by that one. Looks like my Madison may be getting a new light..........well if i dont decide on keeping it :laughing: .............you know, Saturday night n all that:naughty:

Liking the clip too!


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## Omega73 (Dec 28, 2015)

I just ordered a green S2+ with the 7135*6 2100mA driver, and the t6-3b tint. I'm looking forward to getting it. I ordered from Simon's store directly, how long do you think it will take to arrive, I didn't see much in the way of shipping options? 
Also where can I find more info about the triple led setup? Thanks!


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## emarkd (Dec 28, 2015)

Omega73 said:


> I just ordered a green S2+ with the 7135*6 2100mA driver, and the t6-3b tint. I'm looking forward to getting it. I ordered from Simon's store directly, how long do you think it will take to arrive, I didn't see much in the way of shipping options?
> Also where can I find more info about the triple led setup? Thanks!



If you paid the <$1 fee for expedited shipping, it'll come ePacket and usually takes about 1.5-2 weeks, processing time and all. 

Can you be more specific about what you need on a triple setup? Have you ever built/modded a light before?


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## Omega73 (Dec 28, 2015)

I didn't pay that extra dollar. I used my phone when I ordered it and was forced to use the app to complete the purchase. Oh well. 
I have never built or modified a light before. I was entertaining thoughts of learning how to get started in that game with this light. I wish I could be more specific about it but I don't really have the knowledge about custom building lights just yet. Mine are all from the known manufacturers and I just charge up the batteries and enjoy them.


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## fedcas (Jan 11, 2016)

Hi,
is there any code still valid around?
I had one for GB (12,99 usd) and on for BG (from m4dm4x) but they are expired... just wondering where is the cheapest place to buy, cause on the official shop on aliexpress it's not so cheap (19,27 USD for the 8*7135 and 4C tint).


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## recDNA (Jan 12, 2016)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> It's the same clip as on other Convoy lights (see the first group pic in the review). That link is if you want to buy direct from Convoy. Lots of other places sell them too though.
> 
> While waiting for my clips to turn up I took the clip off of my Convoy S4 and it fits the S2+ perfectly.


Wow, too bad it doesn't come with that clip installed.


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## andrewnewman (Feb 22, 2016)

I just scored a green one with 3B tint (2100A). Lovely! I noticed, however, a nuance with the 105D UI. When the light has been on for a bit (~5-10 seconds), you need to tap the switch *twice* to shift to the next level. I suppose this is a feature in that it will prevent inadvertent mode switching. Took me a while to realize what was happening but once I figured it out, it's pretty consistent. Has this been mentioned elsewhere?


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## 1pt21 (Mar 2, 2016)

andrewnewman said:


> I just scored a green one with 3B tint (2100A). Lovely! I noticed, however, a nuance with the 105D UI. When the light has been on for a bit (~5-10 seconds), you need to tap the switch *twice* to shift to the next level. I suppose this is a feature in that it will prevent inadvertent mode switching. Took me a while to realize what was happening but once I figured it out, it's pretty consistent. Has this been mentioned elsewhere?



I also have to double-tap to switch modes (after ~5 secs), not complaining because it is so easy to switch modes that I see it as kind of a "Mode Switch Lockout" LOL. 

And yes, I am also curious as to why it isn't mentioned/discussed in this thread as well.

Is this normal guys? Something new? Sign of a knockoff?

Any info is helpful.. Thanks a bunch!!!


----------



## andrewnewman (Mar 2, 2016)

1pt21 said:


> I also have to double-tap to switch modes (after ~5 secs), not complaining because it is so easy to switch modes that I see it as kind of a "Mode Switch Lockout" LOL.
> 
> And yes, I am also curious as to why it isn't mentioned/discussed in this thread as well.
> 
> ...


I have some thoughts on this. For a driver with a physical switch to have an "off timer" they need a capacitor to run the MCU and latch the last setting as "saved" (say) ~2 seconds after the light is switched off. The 105D driver in the convoy does not have a capacitor (as far as I can tell). As a result, the latch occurs as an "on timer". Imagine that an "event loop" starts in the MCU and loads the last saved brightness level. It then calculates (and saves) the next brightness level (L M H). If the light is turned off within the 2 second timer then the "next" brightness level remains saved. If the 2 second timer expires then the current level is saved (and therefore available) the next time the light is turned on. Now imagine that 2 seconds have passed. When you tap the button the MCU can't distinguish (without a capacitor anyway) whether the light has been off for 0.5 seconds or 2 days when it comes back on. The first tap from an "on" state reloads the current brightness and starts the 2 second timer. The second tap starts again but loads the "next" brightness setting that was saved before it could be overwritten during the prior 2 second cycle.

Does that make any sense?


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 2, 2016)

1pt21 said:


> I also have to double-tap to switch modes (after ~5 secs), not complaining because it is so easy to switch modes that I see it as kind of a "Mode Switch Lockout" LOL.
> 
> And yes, I am also curious as to why it isn't mentioned/discussed in this thread as well.
> 
> ...



I honestly don't know if it's normal or not. But I can say I too have observed it and also with lights running the 3.04A Qlite driver from Int'l Outdoors.

I've never really figures out a pattern too it, but as you say, sometimes you click it to change mods and all you get is a flash -- off/on and the same mode. So you do it again and then it changes modes and will continue to cycle with a single click. But leave it on a while again and you'll have to double click to change modes.

I assume it's a feature, but likewise not one I've really seen discussed.


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## emarkd (Mar 2, 2016)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> I assume it's a feature, but likewise not one I've really seen discussed.



If that's true its a strange feature. I've got several of these S2+ lights but I bought mine as hosts and build them myself, usually with drivers from MtnElectronics, including some of his version of the 105. None of their drivers exhibit this behavior. I imagine the behavior you two are seeing is a side effect of that OTC cap, or lack there-of. Just sounds like a weakness in the circuit design that MtnElectronics has massaged out of theirs.

Kinda off-topic, but while I'm here -- I recently put lighted tailswitch boards in my S2+ lights so that they glow around the metal piston switch while they're off. These are really fun lights and a helluva deal. Anybody who's not playing around with them a bit is really missing out.


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## Phaserburn (Mar 2, 2016)

That's cool. Was it hard to do? Is the light on all the time?


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## emarkd (Mar 2, 2016)

Phaserburn said:


> That's cool. Was it hard to do? Is the light on all the time?



Not too hard. I'll just link you to my write-up on another forum instead of copying everything here: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/483efj/i_built_lighted_tailcaps_for_all_of_my_colored/

The tail lights are on when the main light is off, so it basically serves as a locator for finding the lights in the dark. When you switch on the main emitter the tailcap lights go off.


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## akhyar (Mar 2, 2016)

Nice tail lights mods you have there.
Looks more discrete and "luxury" than the other illuminated tailcaps which use rubber caps


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## 1pt21 (Mar 3, 2016)

andrewnewman said:


> I have some thoughts on this. For a driver with a physical switch to have an "off timer" they need a capacitor to run the MCU and latch the last setting as "saved" (say) ~2 seconds after the light is switched off. The 105D driver in the convoy does not have a capacitor (as far as I can tell). As a result, the latch occurs as an "on timer". Imagine that an "event loop" starts in the MCU and loads the last saved brightness level. It then calculates (and saves) the next brightness level (L M H). If the light is turned off within the 2 second timer then the "next" brightness level remains saved. If the 2 second timer expires then the current level is saved (and therefore available) the next time the light is turned on. Now imagine that 2 seconds have passed. When you tap the button the MCU can't distinguish (without a capacitor anyway) whether the light has been off for 0.5 seconds or 2 days when it comes back on. The first tap from an "on" state reloads the current brightness and starts the 2 second timer. The second tap starts again but loads the "next" brightness setting that was saved before it could be overwritten during the prior 2 second cycle.
> 
> Does that make any sense?



Makes perfect sense. Thank you very much for the detailed, easy to understand explanation!!

BTW, I think your thoughts are correct. It all adds up the way you have described it :thumbsup:

Like I said I'm just very surprised at how little mention it gets in this thread, to tell you the truth I ended up here because I thought there was something wrong with my light. It's the first (and only) light I own that has this "feature". I have a second coming from mtnelectronics, we'll see if that one does the same. If not, then I totally understand why it's not mentioned much. 

Thanks again!


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## Theodore41 (Mar 13, 2016)

Danielsan said:


> How can you check if its Alu or SS?



Use a magnet.Alu is not magnetized.


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## fedcas (Mar 14, 2016)

Theodore41 said:


> Use a magnet.Alu is not magnetized.



It's true that aluminium is non-magnetic, but i't also true that stainless steel varies from not very magnetic to totally non-magnetic.

To put it short: I don't know about this flashlight in particular, but as a general rule if you are in doubt about a material being Al or SS, if it's attracted by a magnet then it's SS but if it's not attracted then you can't tell anything.


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## vudoo (Mar 14, 2016)

How well does the anodising hold up on these lights? I am loving the colour of the red convoy S2. 

It looks exactly the same as my V54 SL2. I am considering buying one of these and swapping the guts from my SL2 into it.


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## vudoo (Mar 14, 2016)

emarkd said:


>



That's looks amazing. How much did the parts cost and how long did it take to mod? Would you consider modding tail switches for us members who don't have the skills to do it?


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## emarkd (Mar 14, 2016)

vudoo said:


> That's looks amazing. How much did the parts cost and how long did it take to mod? Would you consider modding tail switches for us members who don't have the skills to do it?



Thanks! Parts aren't expensive, less than $5 a light (although most of the parts can't be bought in single quantities, so you spend a bit more upfront but wind up with enough parts to do several lights). You can get a full list of needed stuff from that link I posted up there somewhere, along with all the instructions necessary for a DIY approach. It does take a while though, mostly because its not a drop-in mod that'll "just work" with any light. Most drivers have to be modified to allow the button timing system to function with that tailcap in place. So there's a lot of trial and error finding the proper combo of bleeder and tailcap resistors and honestly not every driver is happy with that going on. So I hesitate to offer a modding service for others simply because I know I can't make it work with every light/driver combo out there and I never know if a light is going to take me an hour to get right, or if I'll have to fiddle with it all week.

But lots of folks have approached me about this, both here and on other forums. So I've ordered more parts and am in the process of building some completed lights for sale which will include these lighted tail rings. Its not the same thing I know, and lots of folks probably already have lights they're happy with, but maybe what I'll have to offer in a couple of weeks will be compelling enough to grab some attention.

If you have even the slightest interest in trying it yourself, then go for it! There's lots of friendly folks who will help you, including myself, and lots of good information already out there in other places. Message me if you have any questions and I'll do my best to point you in the right direction. You may surprise yourself!


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## vudoo (Mar 14, 2016)

I am going to try and swap (if it fits) a triple 219c head with a driver VN2. Based on what you said I don't think I can get it to work and don't know enough about electronics to play around with it to make it work. 

Let us know once you get some into production. [emoji3]


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## vudoo (Mar 14, 2016)

Is mountain electronics the best place to buy to ensure you don't get a fake?


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## emarkd (Mar 14, 2016)

If you mean the light itself, then its either MtnElectronics or directly from Convoy on their AliExpress store. Be aware that Convoy is in the process of moving to a larger facility and order shipping has been a bit slower than normal lately, but still faster than most Chinese vendors.

But yeah, those are the only two places I buy Convoy stuff from.


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## Hutchoven (Mar 14, 2016)

Can anyone tell my why the light below is claimed to be 1k+ lumens when it appears to have the same specs as the one in this review? I'm new to most of this. 

https://www.fasttech.com/products/2222905


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## recDNA (Mar 14, 2016)

I like the red. Love the mod causing tail to light with flashlight off. Would be nice with triple 219b or hi cri xm-l2 or hi cri XP-G2. Does it have any heat protection?


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 14, 2016)

Hutchoven said:


> Can anyone tell my why the light below is claimed to be 1k+ lumens when it appears to have the same specs as the one in this review? I'm new to most of this.
> 
> https://www.fasttech.com/products/2222905


With a good battery the driver will pull 2.8amps, you'll likely need an IMR 18350 to see this in the smaller light. A regular ICR 16340 probably won't see the same amp draw.


As for the lumen claim, 2.8amps is probably 1000 led lumens. Out The Front is a likely different story, as there will be losses. That said, almost all of the 'big' premium brands don't pull more than 2.8amps, so it's the same ball park figure.


Word of warning, with the small battery 16340/18350, runtimes will be very low at high output. Convoy normally offer different numbers of 7135 chips on their drivers. The 7135*8, i.e. it'll have eight 7135 chips is the 2.8amp driver. You may find a lower spec driver will simply work better. Max output will be lower, but runtimes will be much improved.

If you are using 18650's and the longer body, then it's less of an issue, as an 18650 typically has 2500-3100mAh+, but a 16340 or 18350 are more like 600-700mAh.


On a personal note, I prefer the S2+ over the S2 model. And you can get an 18350 (accepts 16340 too) adapter tube for them:
http://www.banggood.com/18350-Batte...S2-Blue-And-Red-LED-Flashlight-p-1009722.html


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## emarkd (Mar 14, 2016)

recDNA said:


> I like the red. Love the mod causing tail to light with flashlight off. Would be nice with triple 219b or hi cri xm-l2 or hi cri XP-G2. Does it have any heat protection?



I'm building this current run (my first) with triple 219c's but you're not the first to mention a Hi CRI triple 219b and that's definitely an option. I've got one myself, but not in these hosts. And yes, the lights I'm building have heat protection. I'm using the newest version of the BLF FET+1 driver, the one from the X6/X5 group buy that just finished (tiny25-based with Bistro firmware). It has temp monitoring and step-down, and its user-programmable so the end user can adjust the temperature themselves.

But that's kinda off-topic here. I don't mean to derail this thread and turn it into my own sales thread. I'll start a new thread when the appropriate time comes.


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## Hutchoven (Mar 14, 2016)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> With a good battery the driver will pull 2.8amps, you'll likely need an IMR 18350 to see this in the smaller light. A regular ICR 16340 probably won't see the same amp draw.
> 
> 
> As for the lumen claim, 2.8amps is probably 1000 led lumens. Out The Front is a likely different story, as there will be losses. That said, almost all of the 'big' premium brands don't pull more than 2.8amps, so it's the same ball park figure.
> ...




I was looking for something pretty small to just throw in my pocket, runtimes aren't a big worry for me since I usually use low and small bursts of high when I need it. As for batteries I got 2 efest imr 700mah 18350's. 

Reason being for this light is that I already ordered a k70 so my big light needs should be filled with that hopefully and then this little S2+ to throw in my pocket. Thank you for answering my question so quickly!


----------



## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 14, 2016)

Hutchoven said:


> I was looking for something pretty small to just throw in my pocket, runtimes aren't a big worry for me since I usually use low and small bursts of high when I need it. As for batteries I got 2 efest imr 700mah 18350's.
> 
> Reason being for this light is that I already ordered a k70 so my big light needs should be filled with that hopefully and then this little S2+ to throw in my pocket. Thank you for answering my question so quickly!



This is my S2+ with the shorty 18350 tube (the one on the right obviously):




Just buy a regular 18650 S2+ and the adapter tube. It's nice and pocket-able. The deep carry clip on clips are also a nice addition, although the bolt on deep carry clips (as per the red one in my review) are perfectly fine.


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## recDNA (Mar 14, 2016)

emarkd said:


> I'm building this current run (my first) with triple 219c's but you're not the first to mention a Hi CRI triple 219b and that's definitely an option. I've got one myself, but not in these hosts. And yes, the lights I'm building have heat protection. I'm using the newest version of the BLF FET+1 driver, the one from the X6/X5 group buy that just finished (tiny25-based with Bistro firmware). It has temp monitoring and step-down, and its user-programmable so the end user can adjust the temperature themselves.
> 
> But that's kinda off-topic here. I don't mean to derail this thread and turn it into my own sales thread. I'll start a new thread when the appropriate time comes.


Sounds great. I especially like user set temperature control. I am very very conservative about heat. I basically don't want a flashlight to get hotter than bath water ever.


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## emarkd (Mar 14, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Sounds great. I especially like user set temperature control. I am very very conservative about heat. I basically don't want a flashlight to get hotter than bath water ever.



Well then a FET-driven triple may not be for you  I admit my normal EDC lights are much more tame, but I've built some monsters and I believe these are going to be as well. One of my FET triples, a 3x XP-L in a titanium host, melted its polycarbonate optic one day. I made the mistake of holding it too far back on the battery tube and didn't really realize how hot the head was getting. Plus there's no step-down in that light, so it just kept heating up. It never faltered though, kept working right through the destruction and is still working today -- with a new optic in it. A few more degrees up there and it probably would have unsoldered its leads though, leaving me in the dark. Again, fixable, but obviously not ideal.

The point is that FET-drive triples pull a lot of current and make a lot of heat. Some thermal management is a good idea and I wouldn't actually sell lights without it, but it remains to be seen how much adjustment range the driver will have in this setup. I'll certainly do some testing before I put mine up for sale though. I want folks to know what they're buying.


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## recDNA (Mar 14, 2016)

Yes I usually stay away from FET drivers for that reason but didn't realize the temperature control had limits. I would set it at 120 F.


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## Hutchoven (Mar 14, 2016)

Found my answer *ignore*


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 14, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Sounds great. I especially like user set temperature control. I am very very conservative about heat. I basically don't want a flashlight to get hotter than bath water ever.


I wouldn't worry too much about heat. So long as you are using a copper dtp star? Then they LED can handle a lot of heat. Your hand is a pretty good gauge, when it gets toasty turn it down a tad.


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## recDNA (Mar 14, 2016)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> I wouldn't worry too much about heat. So long as you are using a copper dtp star? Then they LED can handle a lot of heat. Your hand is a pretty good gauge, when it gets toasty turn it down a tad.


I worry more about what could happen if it is turned on and on the floor or a drawer. I don't care about damage to the star or flashlight. I just don't want a venting battery or source of ignition. That and I simply don't like a flashlight getting hot in my hand.


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## ven (Mar 14, 2016)

The s2's don't activate accidentally easily (say that fast 10 times :laughing: ) , an 1/8th turn of the tail cap locks it out as well, so no worries there  It is impressive to have 2500+ lumens in a compact light for giggles, of course lower modes for general use too........quite a good all round light, nice form factor to boot! 

I find around a minute before it gets quite warm at full tilt, then just throttle back a couple of modes and good to carry on. For example the LD2 will shut off when too hot anyway, or step down if it has the thermal regulation fitted.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 15, 2016)

recDNA said:


> I worry more about what could happen if it is turned on and on the floor or a drawer. I don't care about damage to the star or flashlight. I just don't want a venting battery or source of ignition. That and I simply don't like a flashlight getting hot in my hand.


I would never keep a loaded flashlight in a draw like that. I'd want to lock it out or remove the battery, if it posed a risk.

Battery venting should be a non issue as well, a protected ICR would likely trip the protection and an IMR would handle the current and just run flat.

Heat is a by product sadly. More light = more heat.


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## Poppy (Mar 15, 2016)

ven said:


> The s2's don't activate accidentally easily (say that fast 10 times :laughing: ) , an 1/8th turn of the tail cap locks it out as well, so no worries there  *It is impressive to have 2500+ lumens in a compact light for giggles,* of course lower modes for general use too........quite a good all round light, nice form factor to boot!
> 
> I find around a minute before it gets quite warm at full tilt, then just throttle back a couple of modes and good to carry on. For example the LD2 will shut off when too hot anyway, or step down if it has the thermal regulation fitted.



I have a S2+ triple built by James3
I have to agree.... when I fire that baby up.... it makes me giggle :thumbsup:

Having the four step output with moonlight makes the light much more useful, than just having higher outputs all the time.

I am still waiting for the short tube to arrive then I'll be looking for opportunities to impress my friends 
I can't believe I just said that :devil:


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## ven (Mar 15, 2016)

:laughing: never too old poppy...........never! 

Little pocket beast soon then, once the 18350 bodies come


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## vudoo (Mar 15, 2016)

Hey Ven how has the anodising held up on your S2's?


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## ven (Mar 15, 2016)

vudoo said:


> Hey Ven how has the anodising held up on your S2's?



Not had a hard life ...........any of them, live in holsters when edc'd . Can tell its not poor, maybe HAII defo not III as it will chip/scuff without too much effort(then again many lights that state HAIII are not either!). For the price of the host i cant fault it........which is the cheapest part. Beauty is, if gets dinged up enough or want a change of colour, just swap the insides


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## vudoo (Mar 15, 2016)

I have a SL2vn triple with 219c LED's. I love the red coloured host and am going to buy one and swap the guts from my SL2 into the red host. I also like the fact I can get a matching 18350 tube when I want something really compact.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 15, 2016)

ven said:


> Not had a hard life ...........any of them, live in holsters when edc'd . Can tell its not poor, maybe HAII defo not III as it will chip/scuff without too much effort(then again many lights that state HAIII are not either!). For the price of the host i cant fault it........which is the cheapest part. Beauty is, if gets dinged up enough or want a change of colour, just swap the insides


I've EDC'd my red S2+ a lot (the one in the review). No holster only pocket carry. It's worn really well, no marks or anything. I'll try and get an updated pic of it.


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## ven (Mar 15, 2016)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> I've EDC'd my red S2+ a lot (the one in the review). No holster only pocket carry. It's worn really well, no marks or anything. I'll try and get an updated pic of it.




Thats good news, the ano seems better than i thought but not really tested it in anger(even dropped it! and i am clumsy) , thanks for the info


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## HarleyXJGuy (Mar 15, 2016)

I would like to get one of these but with the different options how do I know what the output will be?

Looking at the ones sold by Mtn Electronics.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 16, 2016)

HarleyXJGuy said:


> I would like to get one of these but with the different options how do I know what the output will be?
> 
> Looking at the ones sold by Mtn Electronics.


Lumens aren't quoted for these lights. Although you might find some reviews, however the performance of them will be equal to most other lights that pull the same tail cap amps.


I assume Mnt Electronics sells the same selection as Simon of Convoy lights does, or those you find on Banggood.

The drivers are split into how many 7135 chips they have. These regulate current, the more 7135 chips they have, the more current they'll run at.


If memory serves:

7135 x 3 = 1 amp'ish
7135 x 4 = 1.4 amp
7135 x 6 = 2.1 amp
7135 x 8 = 2.8 amp


All of the drivers have two mode groups, of either 3 or 5 modes. This is just a click action on the light to change the mode group. And it's either L-M-H or L-M-H-Strobe-SOS or something to that affect.

The Low and Middle output modes are a percentage of the max output. So low on a 7135 x 3 version will be lower than that of the 7135 x 8 version (at least this is what I'm lead to believe).

I've only bought the 7135 x 8 versions, as I tend to use my torches in bursts. However if you need to run the torch for a long time, then heat will be an issue with this driver. The High mode on the 7135 x 4 driver (1.4 amp) will be brighter than the Middle mode on the 7135 x 8 driver, so in this instance you may be better off buying the less powerful version, as you'll be able to run it brighter for longer.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 18, 2016)

*UPDATE:*


So I've had this torch for just over a year now. What do I think?

I still love it. I've used it as an EDC a lot and it's been used for many different things, including working on vehicles.

Overall I like the tint still, it's a nice step into the NW world and far superior to any CW emitter.

The output and performance of the S2+ are still superb.

I don't really have any gripes, although I do wish Convoy would introduce a Moonlight mode on their driver. The very similar Qlite 7135 based driver has an optional 5mA output setting, which is pretty ideal as a firefly or moonlight mode. I hope Simon @ Convoy flashlights looks to include this in the future.


In terms of durability as some people have asked. As a rule I try to look after my torches, I EDC them in my jeans pocket, facing down, clipped to the inside of the pocket. Occasionally they get dropped, but I do try to not do this.

I don't believe I have dropped the S2+. The anodising, despite it's nice bright red colour seems to have held up brilliantly. I think the pics will speak for themselves on this, but you can see the S2+ has remained refreshing unmarked and unworn, even on the edges. I've included a couple of other lights for comparison, a Solarforce L2M and a Klarus XT2C. Both slightly older and carried more, but not dramatically so.






Mostly unmakred:











One very minor ding, think it occurred while using it for working on a Land Rover:





The clip has a few scuff marks on it, but has held up better than I thought it would. I have the same clip on a number of lights and they can be bent and aren't all that springy. But the one on the S2+ seems to have not suffered any such accidents. There is one other very minor mark on the tail cap under the clip where it attaches to the body. Not entirely sure how this one occured:





Normally lights show signs of wear on the edges, but the S2+ has thus far seemed quite resilient, impressive when you compare how worn the Klarus and Solarforce are in the same areas:


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## ven (Mar 18, 2016)

Cool info and pics CD, thanks for sharing


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## ven (Mar 18, 2016)

Heat treating the clip looks good CD on the red, just over a hob for a minute.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Mar 18, 2016)

Thanks for the idea, I'll give it a try. I bought a bulk load of those clips anyhow. Might have to dig out the camping stove thought... got an Induction cooker in the kitchen.


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## ven (Mar 18, 2016)

I leave the little bolts in whilst going over the flame, should start to glow then just move it to the next area. Only takes a minute or so tops, the bolts will get done the same with being in place


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## vudoo (Apr 10, 2016)

I bought the stainless steel clip from AliExpress with my S2. Carried it in my pocket for a few hours and when I took it out the clip was bent. The clip felt quite cheap and weak.







Went to take the light out of my pocket an hour later and it was gone. Must have fallen out of my pocket. It was my new favourite EDC with a triple 219c LED's. [emoji30]


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## vudoo (Apr 10, 2016)

If I get a new S2, anyone got a suggestion for a stronger clip?


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## Chicken Drumstick (Apr 11, 2016)

The bolt on clips aren't springy and can bend if you catch them on thing. However they are ever so easy to bend back, just unscrew the tail cap and it'll be easy to re-shapen.

I have those clips on loads of my lights. They seem to work fine for me most of the time. And are comparable to my EagleTac D Series clip, which also bolts on.


If you want a different clip, have a look at Simon's store on Aliexpress, he has some deep carry clip on clips that fit the S2+ and other Convoy lights.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Apr 13, 2016)

Danielsan said:


> i can not switch the modes with a single tap, i have to do two taps for changing mode everytime or one full click.


I think that has something to do with the on time memory and is a quirk on how these drivers work. If you turn it on, mode selection will be by a single half click.

If you've left in a mode for 'x' seconds, then yes, it may require two half clicks to cycle to the next mode, but will only require a single half click from there on, until you leave it on a mode for 'x' seconds again.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Apr 13, 2016)

Pictured earlier, a little while ago I bought a blue Convoy S2+, with the intent of running it as a shorty and building it as a triple.


I trialled it with the stock CW XM-L2 and stock driver in shorty mode with an 18350 IMR. But as I've found with other lights running 16340/18350/14500, I just don't get on with them. Runtimes are too short.

Also the lack of a moonlight mode is my biggest gripe with the stock Convoy drivers.


So yesterday I built this light up as an 18650 with a 4 mode Qlite driver. It has a slightly higher 3.04amp high mode and a 5mA Moonlight mode. But works in a largely similar fashion to the stock Convoy 8*7135 driver.

Instead of going NW Cree, I opted for a Nichia219BT D220 (think it's min 90CRI) that I happened to have. It's mounted on a copper direct thermal path (DTP) Noctigon star.


The combination of the S2+'s small shallow reflector and the smaller Nichia LED seem to be a winning combo in my book.


The beam profile is very nice. The hot spot being ever so slightly smaller and brighter than my red S2+ with the XM-L2, and the spill beam ever so slightly less bright. But a very nice combo.

Throw is slightly improved, but it's still a nice floody tube light. But now with better tint and thanks to the 3amp driver, seems visually to pump similar amounts of light on high.

The 5mA Moonlight mode is lovely too and is about equal to my Sunwaymany V11R on it's lowest setting.


It gets a little hotter a little quicker I think than the red S2+, but the copper star should handle this fine.


I would recommend this as a worthwhile upgrade for any current or potential S2+ owners. My blue S2+ is also sporting Convoy's latest deep carry pocket clip, which I think works better than the previous bolt on one.


Total cost:

Driver $4.19 shipped
LED on star $.4.98 shipped
Clip $0.88 shipped (bought as a pack of 10)

















I will attempt to get some comparison beam shots and post them up later on.


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## fedcas (May 6, 2016)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> I think that has something to do with the on time memory and is a quirk on how these drivers work. If you turn it on, mode selection will be by a single half click.
> 
> If you've left in a mode for 'x' seconds, then yes, it may require two half clicks to cycle to the next mode, but will only require a single half click from there on, until you leave it on a mode for 'x' seconds again.




If it's really a choice, it sounds like a really bad one to me. I thought it was a bug: normally it is like that
- Turn on the switch: if the light has been OFF for more than 2 seconds turn on in the last mode, otherwise turn on in last mode+1.
Instead this one works this way:
- Turn on the switch: if the light has been ON for more than 2 seconds turn on in the last mode (regardless of how much time the light has been off, either 100 ms or 2 days) otherwise turn on in last mode+1.


Is there any way to mod this behaviour (apart from reflashing the whole driver) or even just disable the memory? It just drives me crazy.


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## atbglenn (Jul 22, 2016)

My Convoy S2+'s

Blue: Warm White w/7135x8 Driver
Black: 3 Watt 365nm Nichia UV w/ ZWB2 UV Filter Lens
Green: Neutral White w/7135x6 Driver


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## recDNA (Jul 22, 2016)

vudoo said:


> I bought the stainless steel clip from AliExpress with my S2. Carried it in my pocket for a few hours and when I took it out the clip was bent. The clip felt quite cheap and weak.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sounds like perfect edc and very pretty. They don't make with rubber boot? I hate metal boots.


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## recDNA (Jul 22, 2016)

Chicken Drumstick said:


> Pictured earlier, a little while ago I bought a blue Convoy S2+, with the intent of running it as a shorty and building it as a triple.
> 
> 
> I trialled it with the stock CW XM-L2 and stock driver in shorty mode with an 18350 IMR. But as I've found with other lights running 16340/18350/14500, I just don't get on with them. Runtimes are too short.
> ...


Love the pocket clip. I have a Manker E14 with Nichia but it is too heavy ti carry. Triple nichia 219b in Convoy sounds like a nice setup. I do not like too much heat so I like the option of fewer chips for lower output on high. 400 lumens would be more than enough for me. I think that could be done with less than 3 amps?


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## Chicken Drumstick (Aug 27, 2016)

UPDATE:


So I've been messing about with my Convoys. I found some TIR optics I pulled from an MR16 household bulb, that I bought for a Mag 3D triple build. 

These TIR optics are almost a perfect fit and directly replace the stock reflector.














They produce the most awesome beam. The red Convoy S2+ has the original XM-L2 in it and seems to work brilliantly with the TIR. It produces a large floody even beam of lovely equal tint light, unlike the reflector where the hot spot and spill beam are slightly different colours.

The really odd thing is, it still seems to throw about the same distance, despite looking floody.... It's the closest thing to a wall of light any of my torches can produce.

The blue S2+ has the Nichia 219b in it. The TIR seems to work almost as well with this too, but the larger XM-L2 does seem to maximise the optic.

White wall hunters will note the beam is almost a little square on the edges, but you need to be fairly close to a wall to see this. In actual use, you just get a large illuminated area, completely evenly light. This gives the flood of an aspheric zoomy, but with way more range.

XM-L2





Nichia219b


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## raduverdes (Aug 27, 2016)

My blue S2+ is on the way, I can't wait for it. Thanks CP forum for your excellent informations.


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## Chicken Drumstick (Aug 27, 2016)

Here are some outside beam shots to show how nice the beams are.

XM-L2:




Nichia219b:


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## aginthelaw (Aug 27, 2016)

Guess I must have gotten a fake. Had problems ever since I got mine. It died right after I received the 18350 tube. Modding what's left of it now. Where's the desert tan one so I can move on from this loss?


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## stubbys (Aug 28, 2016)

So if i ordered this one 

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262476656858 

(UK) it states 1000lms so at mid which is 40% would be 400lms approx, which is plenty enough for me? Thanks for any advice


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## Chicken Drumstick (Aug 28, 2016)

I wouldn't worry too much about lumen claims. Once you've bought a few lights, you'll sort of know what to expect. Also lumens are a bit like torque with cars. More is usually good, but what it does with it, is often more important. 

As for the Convoys. It can be daunting when first looking, as there are lots of choices. 

First you have the different models. As a rule, the bigger the torch, the more throw the beam will be. So small tube lights are usually floody. Bigger lights will also hand the heat better. So you can usually use them for longer without them getting to hot to hold. 

The Convoy drivers are available in different power outputs for the same torch. All the drivers are the same design however, with the same number of modes. They have High, Mid and Low output and you can also have strobe and SOS. The last two you can switch off however, so that you don't see them ever. 

In the listings however, you'll usually see more than one driver listed, might be something like 3*7135 or 8*7135. The drivers the Convoy use, use 7135 chips to regulate current. The more chips the higher the Max output. 8*7135 is their most powerful driver. This will give 2.8 amps to the tail cap, which is on par with many lights from Fenix, Nitecore, etc. So you'll get about the same PEAK output in terms of lumens. 

Less chips means less current. The advantage here is, you still get a lot of light, but less heat and longer runtimes. The 4*7135 makes for a nice compromise as a usual blue light, as you'll be able to keep it on High for extended periods of time. A 8*7135 driver will tend to get hot and after 5 mins will probably be too hot to comfortable hold. 

So depending on if you use your torch for short bursts or longer durations, one or the other might be better. 

As for buying from that seller. Afraid I normally buy from China as I'm never in a hurry to get the items. Shipping time is normally 2-4 weeks. 

Www.banggood.com have a good range of Convoy lights and have as far as I know always delivered genuine ones. 

Www.gearbest.com also sell Convoy, but I recall a lot of them were fakes and not as good. 

Or you can buy direct from Simon at Convoy flashlights, he has an Aliexpress store, just search Convoy flashlights on Google and you'll find it. 

The only negative with Aliexpress is, they don't take PayPal. Whereas banggood do. I like using PayPal, as it's super easy and reliable if you have to raise a dispute. So gives you very good protection and come back. 


Last up, most Convoys are also offered in a different tints. Different tints will slightly affect PEAK lumens, but you'd never be able to tell with the naked eye. But you'll see tint every time you use the light. 


Don't know if you have batteries or a charger yet. I like Samsung 25R and Samsung 30Q batteries, both available at banggood. The 30Q's will give better runtime, but cost more to buy. So unless you rely on the torch and need the runtime, then the 25R's will be more than up to the task. I'm yet to find a better battery for the money vs performance. Efest offer some good batteries too, bit more pricey, but you can get them within a day or two off eBay, should you need them quicker.


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## stubbys (Aug 28, 2016)

Thanks CD, much appreciated 👍


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## stubbys (Aug 28, 2016)

Sorry, i presume the emitting colour is the tint, what colour do those letters and numbers stand for?


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## stubbys (Aug 28, 2016)

Ah just found them, havent got a clue which one to go for, so ill probably just go with neutral.


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## ven (Aug 28, 2016)

I find the 3B a real nice tint/temp, kind of a not too warm and no too cool


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## stubbys (Aug 28, 2016)

Drumstick, question for you ...

You have the 7135*8 driver, youve had it over a year, would you personally prefer a 6* or 4* driver? Or is the one youve got perfect for you? Cheers


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## Chicken Drumstick (Aug 29, 2016)

Another vote for the T6-3B tint it's a nice NW tint and a good starting point for. 3B is the 'tint', T6 is actually the output bin. But I wouldn't worry at this stage about that. 

Regards the driver. Afraid I've not used any of the lower output drivers, so I can't really comment. My use of torches is more for fun and occasional use. So I tend to only use them for short bursts of light. So I either use low or max as a rule. To this end, the 8*7135 works well for me. 

If however I was wanting to use the torch for dog walking for maybe 40 mins to an hour, then I'd actively pick a lower powered driver in a Convoy. The 4*7135 driver is brighter on high than the 8*7135 driver on medium, but will run cool enough that you'll be able to leave it on high for long periods of time.


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## stubbys (Aug 29, 2016)

Ok thanks, i guess in reality i really only use a torch in short bursts, checking on the chickens at night, put the bins out, looking for something in the car, usually go to a european center parcs in october and its dark at like 5pm and i like to blast the way with a light. I guess i will go with the 8*7135 for some short burst action as thats whatll itll most likely be used for. I want the olight s2 as well so ill be covered with both of those and then at some stage in the future a headlamp when funds allow, maybe xmas!


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## EchiDNA (Sep 3, 2016)

Hi guys. The review is great, but I have a general question, you wrote that we can use protected and unprotected batteries, which type is preferred and why? I have many unprotected but I am curious and worried.


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## ven (Sep 3, 2016)

A lot is down to preference, i prefer unprotected cells for a few reasons. Less stress on the internal springs(not a tight fit basically when screwing down the tail cap). I dont require protected cells as i keep and eye on things and rather have no strip running down my cell which in itself can become a problem(example on some). The lights i have are modded so they work better on high drain cells, also generally unprotected are cheaper over protected so another reason for me(no major factor though as i would not compromise safety over a few $'s)i just believe that protected cells are not needed in single cell lights.

That is my opinion, may and probably will differ from others, if your not confident or have no means of checking the cell, maybe better to get protected. However (general comment and not aimed at anyone), if a PCB is a must and relied on, then this chemistry is not for them! ) IMO again

Most lights will give a warning, by blink or drop in output, the s2 iirc is at 3v but i have never run it down so low. After some use i top off the cell, ready for the next time, and a practice i have done for a while now to keep things simple and effective for me.


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## EchiDNA (Sep 4, 2016)

ven said:


> A lot is down to preference, i prefer unprotected cells for a few reasons. Less stress on the internal springs(not a tight fit basically when screwing down the tail cap). I dont require protected cells as i keep and eye on things and rather have no strip running down my cell which in itself can become a problem(example on some). The lights i have are modded so they work better on high drain cells, also generally unprotected are cheaper over protected so another reason for me(no major factor though as i would not compromise safety over a few $'s)i just believe that protected cells are not needed in single cell lights.
> 
> That is my opinion, may and probably will differ from others, if your not confident or have no means of checking the cell, maybe better to get protected. However (general comment and not aimed at anyone), if a PCB is a must and relied on, then this chemistry is not for them! ) IMO again
> 
> Most lights will give a warning, by blink or drop in output, the s2 iirc is at 3v but i have never run it down so low. After some use i top off the cell, ready for the next time, and a practice i have done for a while now to keep things simple and effective for me.


Thank you ven, your post is very clear to me. I have about 15 unprotected cells but no experience on flashlights. I think that it's a waste of money to buy some protected cells right now. Thank you.


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## ven (Sep 4, 2016)

EchiDNA said:


> Thank you ven, your post is very clear to me. I have about 15 unprotected cells but no experience on flashlights. I think that it's a waste of money to buy some protected cells right now. Thank you.



Most of mine are unprotected now, still a few protected which get used because i have them. If unsure on anything just ask in the battery section, little read up and common sense(general comment) is all it takes. There is plenty of warning once the voltage gets low by loss of modes. Most flashlights will struggle operating much under 3v anyway, and most have a min of 2.5v! . So if i store a light, i simply lock it out when possible(twist of tail cap) to stop any chance of accidental activation. 

iirc all my s2+ cells are LG 20a , after some use i am yet to see any less than 3.6v when put on charge. I just get into a routine, use the light for a period, slap cell on charge. If its 2m here and 2m there then i will subconsciously add up. Kind of hard to explain, but you get a feeling of where your up to in the voltage stakes and its usually within 0.1 or so V. 

Welcome


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## stubbys (Sep 4, 2016)

I ordered the s2+, went for these on someones advice as i know very little







Only other batteries i have charged before are these on my drone






Just waiting on the flashlight now, should be here tomorrow [emoji2]


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## ven (Sep 4, 2016)

Good cells the 25R, although a little over kill for a standard s2+, they work fine and I use them in several lights and ecig mods.


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## stubbys (Sep 4, 2016)

ven said:


> Good cells the 25R, although a little over kill for a standard s2+, they work fine and I use them in several lights and ecig mods.


Ok, glad to know, drumstick recommended them.


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## raduverdes (Sep 10, 2016)

Hello, I can hear high pitched noise (not loud but noticeable in quiet environment) on my new Convoy S2+ blue with 3*7135 T6-3B. I hear this noise in low, mid and high modes. Is that normal or my flashlight is defective ? I use unprotected brand new Panasonic INR 3300mAh. Apart from that I like the tint and beam, on high mode the flashlight runs warm but not hot. I bought this light from Simon / Mtnelectronics so it's genuine. All the best, good light and nice tint for everyone !


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## ven (Sep 10, 2016)

Sounds(no pun intended) like driver whine , some lights can get it in just one mode, or all. I have maybe 1 or 2 out of all mine, a p60 drop in that i can get a low whine out of the medium mode. Can hardly hear it, if hold close to head then its more noticeable...............so i dont do that ! :laughing: 

Would not say normal but i would also say not unheard of either and defective maybe a too strong word.

You could contact Simon if its an issue for you and take from there, see what he says.


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## raduverdes (Sep 10, 2016)

Thanks ven, yes it's more like low whine and don't bother me if this sound stay the same in the future and don't get louder. All the best !


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## akmens (Dec 23, 2016)

How it regulates mid/low mode? Does it have noticable strobe effect? I cannot tolerate some flashlights because of this.


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## zakazak (Dec 30, 2016)

I am intersted in buying one of these and wonder what setup I should go for.

18650 Batteries
T6 3B
But which 7135 ?

This flashlight will go into my backpack which I use for MTB touring, walking, going to work, etc.

Also: Do 18650 batteries have the same life time as CR123A batteries? I am planning to replace the CR123A of my Fennix TK15 with the 18650 (i think that should fit) and so far the CR123A are still working after 3 years.


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## ven (Dec 30, 2016)

18650 will fit and you should get many years of use out of a cell. Generally 300-500 full cycles and then you may have 70%+ capacity. That is full charge cycles, not top off (example as a top off, 3.8v back to 4.2v) Full cycle would be 3v to 4.2v(roughly without splitting hairs going to the min manufacturers spec of 2.5 or 2.7v as not ideal for the cycle life.)

If your saying still working after 3yrs, is this minimum use and same cell? If so, then 18650 fuel may not be the best option for you as they dont like being stored at full voltage for long periods.

t6 3b ia a nice colour temp, little warmer than what your used to with the fenix. Fenix around 6500k and 3b around 5000k(more neutral)
Driver wise , 7135 depends on how bright, 7135*8 being the brightest but trade off heat(get hot quick on high). Probably the *4 or *6 option would be a more sensible choice............


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## zakazak (Dec 31, 2016)

ven said:


> 18650 will fit and you should get many years of use out of a cell. Generally 300-500 full cycles and then you may have 70%+ capacity. That is full charge cycles, not top off (example as a top off, 3.8v back to 4.2v) Full cycle would be 3v to 4.2v(roughly without splitting hairs going to the min manufacturers spec of 2.5 or 2.7v as not ideal for the cycle life.)
> 
> If your saying still working after 3yrs, is this minimum use and same cell? If so, then 18650 fuel may not be the best option for you as they dont like being stored at full voltage for long periods.
> 
> ...



Thank you for your explenation. Yes I am talking about using the flashlight every 1-2 months once and so after 3 years it is still working.

The fenix would go into the tool box and I will only need the flashlight every now and then. But when I need it then I dont want it to be empty.

So the 18650 wont work for me at all? How long can you usually leave them around before the get empty by themself?


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## ven (Dec 31, 2016)

Is the fenix tk15 you have been using on the original cr123a batteries...........by that i mean unchanged and still the same 2 batteries you put in the tk15 when purchased and never changed them for new cr123 batteries.

If the batteries are the same and lasted you 3yrs of use(so not much use at all) the cr123a batteries are more suited to your use than li ion chemistry in 18650 batteries.


Yes 18650 will work for use every month or two, just not ideal to be left for long periods. As far as i know the tk15 does not have any parasitic drain(you can lock out on tail cap anyway with a little turn to undo and break any contact altogether). An 18650 cell will last a long long time before it dropped bellow 3v, years and years...................But that is not the issue. Over time they build up resistance and not hold as much charge if left at full charge(4.2v). 

If your going to use it every month then top cell off every so often, it wont be an issue.


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## zakazak (Dec 31, 2016)

ven said:


> Is the fenix tk15 you have been using on the original cr123a batteries...........by that i mean unchanged and still the same 2 batteries you put in the tk15 when purchased and never changed them for new cr123 batteries.
> 
> If the batteries are the same and lasted you 3yrs of use(so not much use at all) the cr123a batteries are more suited to your use than li ion chemistry in 18650 batteries.
> 
> ...



Yup I am talking about one set of batteries..so no battery changing in 3 years. 

How about not fully loading the 18650 ? Like loading only to 90% and then leaving it in the flashlight?

How about protected 18650 which will alwqys drain a tiny little bit anyway?


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## ven (Dec 31, 2016)

In that case stick with cr123a cells, in my opinion no reason to switch to 18650 . Benefits of lithium primaries is also in colder/hotter temps...............their life also is usually 10+ years.

If adamant about switching, yes charge to 4.0 - 4.1v , less stress on the cell for being left for long periods. But the 18650 cell is not really designed for this type of use in mind.


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## zakazak (Dec 31, 2016)

ven said:


> In that case stick with cr123a cells, in my opinion no reason to switch to 18650 . Benefits of lithium primaries is also in colder/hotter temps...............their life also is usually 10+ years. If adamant about switching, yes charge to 4.0 - 4.1v , less stress on the cell for being left for long periods. But the 18650 cell is not really designed for this type of use in mind.



Hmm well in the case of sticking with CR123A I will need the Convoy S2+ 18350/16340 version. But this means I should pick some lower driver I guess?

Are there any differences when running the 18350/16340 with a CR123A ? Whats the best configuration then ? 7135x4 ?


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## novarider (Feb 7, 2017)

Can someone please confirm that the Convoy S2 can use 2 cr123a cells?


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## AVService (Feb 7, 2017)

novarider said:


> Can someone please confirm that the Convoy S2 can use 2 cr123a cells?




I don't think so.
This is clearly an 18650 light and 2 123 cells will be almost double that voltage,right?
Have you ever seen anyone try this?


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## novarider (Feb 7, 2017)

AVService said:


> I don't think so.
> This is clearly an 18650 light and 2 123 cells will be almost double that voltage,right?
> Have you ever seen anyone try this?



No that's why I'm asking. I am looking for a decent light to leave in my vehicles that takes lithium 123a batteries.


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## gunga (Feb 7, 2017)

No. This is not the light for you unless you find a suitable replacement driver.


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## ven (Feb 7, 2017)

As above no support for the cr123 cells(voltage too high for driver). Look at lights from thrunite and fenix which are 18650 fed, but support 2x cr123 cells. Thrunite tn12 NW to name one light that may suit your needs.


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## hmihaylov (Feb 7, 2017)

You can buy the short tube and put 1xCR123 battery if you must use CR123 with the stock S2


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## mr_magicfingers (Aug 5, 2017)

Thanks to everyone on this thread, I recently too delivery of a red S2+. I went with the T6-3B tint and *6 driver. Only a bit of testing but so far really pleased with the light, which will go in it's pouch on my belt next to my Leatherman Surge. I live and work on a little farm and it'll be getting daily use for everything from finding stuff in the back of the barn to taking the dogs out for their night-time constitutional. Now just have to figure out how to program just the options I need in the new software


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