# Thinking of making a moon blaster!



## UNiT5 (Dec 27, 2013)

Hi everyone,

Hope all is well.

As the title says, 

1. blitz 240 - check
2. osram p-vip 120 1.0 - check
3. osram pt-vip 100/120 1.0 arc gap - in the post
4. 150w inverter 12v - 240v - check
5. 3 12v 7ah SLA's in parallel - check - will keep it shoulder strapped for the time being untill i find out whether i should pack some batteries into a little box under the blitz.
6. ceramic base lamp holder - still need to source/order
7. exhaust putty to afix the lamp - at the local super cheap auto shop


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## UNiT5 (Jan 3, 2014)

Got some updated pictures - next post.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 3, 2014)




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## UNiT5 (Jan 3, 2014)

Please excuse the iphone pics. I do have a better better quality point and shoot cam. (left it at my bro's house)


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## UNiT5 (Jan 3, 2014)

blitz 240 with the bi-pin osram 36 volter - enjoy


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## UNiT5 (Jan 3, 2014)

p-vip 120 coming soon i hope.

going to smash the reflector housing to get the lamp out.

also have in my possession a couple of those hid lamps with the ceramic insulation.

I was actually wondering how i will extend the lead wire with the ceramic insulator toward the base where the bulb with be potted.

cheers.

almost forgot i need to grab one of those bulb holders, cement putty.....


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## UNiT5 (Jan 6, 2014)

ok.

so got my hands on my point and shoot. its a powershot s95 with a manual option where you can set iso, shutter and aperture.

yet to tingle around with that for the beamshots.

i've also did a bit of thread searching and found out that id need to short the exit side of the optocouplers.

ive updated the pictures in the 2nd or 3rd post with some descriptions.


i was wondering, do i need to keep the electronics cool particularly the bulb with some fan system??

if anyone would like to comment, please feel free!

hugely appreciated. - Joe.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 6, 2014)

p.s waiting for the lamp to arrive.

my neighbour gave me a brand new face sheild and ear muffs, i have gloves handy.

will defenitely get rugged up for the smashing of the reflector for the osram p-vip 120 1.0. 

i'm just needing at the moment, the ceramic base lamp holder that will fit into the blitz's metal base holder. oh and some exhaust putty!!!!.....


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## UNiT5 (Jan 7, 2014)

Ok, so i though i'd add some beamshots of the blitz 240 with 400 watt Osram HLX 64663 bulb.

As you can see my point and shoot Canon S95 on auto does a decent job of some clear pictures.

I tried messing around with the iso, aperture and f settings, but couldnt master it and was impatient.

Hope you enjoy.....

By the way the blitz got very hot after 5 minutes of run time. I wouldnt advise running that 400 watter any longer in the blitz.

im just wondering how the p-vip 120 is going to fair


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 12, 2014)

Nice pics. That seems like a pretty even hotspot and tons of lumens in the side-spill. I can imagine it does get pretty hot.


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## The_Driver (Jan 13, 2014)

"Das grüne Scheusal" ist a light made by a guy in the German TLF forum names "sma". He is also registered here on CPF under the same name. To see the pictures you need to register in the TLF. Use google translate for the text. Or just message him here on CPF.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 14, 2014)

Mr. Tone, my only problem with the 400watt set-up is focusing the beam and keeping the head of the blitz attached to the handle as the bulb is probably 4 - 5 times larger than the stock 100watt bulb that came with the blitz... 

I need to modify the base where the bulb sits in so the filament sits with-in the focusing point of the reflector, enough so there is thread to keep the reflector/head unit tight and not about to fall off as it is here.



The Driver - I seen that already, that uhp light, when i see it light up the darkness, makes me want to swear, but im afraid if i start swearing, i may ignite some attention from moderators haha..... Check my pics below...


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## UNiT5 (Jan 14, 2014)

ok, so after ordering a osram pt-vip 2ac/380 ballast from Ebay, i managed to blow the capacitor by being a tad reckless and admittedly not knowing what i was doing.

after doing some more research, i picked up a large 71inch rear projection tv and pulled out the contents of that.

to find this 



















And theres me shorting the 2nd and 3rd optocoupler legs, i was so happy.

i also connected my little 150w inverter with my 3 12volt motorbike batteries in parrallel and it made alot of noise and thankfully worked, but because i think the inverter ain't the most powerful box in the world, it started making a beeping alarm sounding warning me that it could not handle the light being on for too long...

so anyways, bit of spec on the new set of parts

As you can see, ive ripped the power supply out of the tv and used it to power up the lamp and ballast here.

the ballast is a EUC 132D P/31

LAMP,HIGH PRESSURE M UHP 120W/132W 1.0 PH


Would someone care to inform me, the cable connection to the actual lamp, if i were to connect the lamp in reverse polarity, would it be disastrous?

thanks in advance.... im also wondering if the lamp gets hot enough, how will my blitz fair hmmmm.....

i need to hit the sack, its past my bed time. good day/night folks.

joe.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 14, 2014)

just quickly before i close my eyes, i measured the voltage out of the power supply to be 330 volts.

if anyone wants me to test other figures, please let me know.

the tv is  71SA1D LG.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 14, 2014)

UNiT5 said:


> Mr. Tone, my only problem with the 400watt set-up is focusing the beam and keeping the head of the blitz attached to the handle as the bulb is probably 4 - 5 times larger than the stock 100watt bulb that came with the blitz...
> 
> I need to modify the base where the bulb sits in so the filament sits with-in the focusing point of the reflector, enough so there is thread to keep the reflector/head unit tight and not about to fall off as it is here.
> 
> ...



I imagine getting a good focus is a major pain.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 15, 2014)

we'll get there.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 15, 2014)

It looks like you are having fun along the way and it's nice of you to share your experience with us.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 16, 2014)

Thanks mate!

We're not exactly on this Earth for a long time, might aswell shine lights at other planets while we're still alive haha.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 26, 2014)

Update;

1. Tapped 12v - 220v inverter to get 320volts for the ballast - works fine.
2. Manged to get the UHP bulb out of the reflector but the lead wire came loose.

I need expert or experienced advice please! Look at the pic!






Whats the best way to reconnect it so its sturdy enough. I also understand that i probably need to make the lead wire longer to feed it to the base of the holder.

Any suggestions on reconnecting that wire so its sturdy?

I'm thinking getting small metal square plates and screwing them tight together on each ends.

Also, this lamp gets so hot, how in hell am I going to keep it from melting the blitz.

ANY HELP APPRECIATED, BVH, I FEEL LIKE YOU MAY BE ABLE TO SHED SOME LIGHT, FEEL FREE TO JUMP IN.

Thanks in advance boys!


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## BVH (Jan 27, 2014)

My $0.02 worth. I'm guessing the broke lead wire has a high content of Nickel as do the trigger wires found on arc lamps. The cleanest way to ATTEMPT repair would be to find someone with a Capacitive Discharge (CD) welder and have the two pieces welded together. But I'm not even sure it could be done with such a small gauge wire. Did it physically break or did it burn apart? It looks from this far distance that it burned. One other possibility is to use a typical automotive type butt connector and carefully crimp it. You would have to remove the plastic insulation first. But the bulb end wire looks very short so maybe it won't work and I think you're saying that the broken end goes into a yet to be made holder of some kind so a butt connector may be in the way? In the end, I don't think you can reliably save the lamp. How is the broken end of the lamp going to be supported with no metal base?

As far as heat goes, you would have to limit your run times to a minute or so at a time between cool downs.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 28, 2014)

Oh no! Dang, that broken lead is likely going to be the end of that lamp's usefulness. Maybe one of BVH's suggestions will work but I am thinking the same as him in that you won't be able to _reliably_ reattach that lead. We feel your pain.


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## UNiT5 (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks for your input BVH, most appreciated.

The lead wire is quite rigid and tough, it broke off as I was trying to wiggle the lamp out of the glass reflector.

I like your crimping idea and I might have to figure something out in regards to that although i did get a great idea in trying to wedge the wire in between 2 metal washers and a nut and bold and have that sit on top of the bulb, while i salvage more lead wire and have it held down into one of the connectors on the ceramic base holder.

I will try and figure something out.

With the blitz, it does have a great looking lens on the front, i'm just thinking, if i were to remove the lens, would it affect the throw, as it looks like a decently thick lends, alsmost aspherical or magnifying if that makes sense.

What if i had a parabolic reflector made out of a metal and replaced the lense with a glass type??

Obviously that would cost big bucks and is it worth it.

Once again thanks for your input BVH....


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## UNiT5 (Jan 28, 2014)

mr. tone

where there's a will, theres a way...

the way that lead wire is connected from the factory, it looks so tedious, like it would detach so easily in the first place.

the lamp still works.

i'll figure something out boys. 

I cant imagine removing the bulb out of the reflector and not diconnecting that lead wire.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 28, 2014)

Good luck to you, I sure hope you find a workable solution!


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## UNiT5 (Jan 29, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> Good luck to you, I sure hope you find a workable solution!




Good man!

I have a plan.


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## UNiT5 (Feb 10, 2014)

quick update

I managed to insert the p-vip 120/132w bulb into the reflector of the blitz and power it up.

Without securing it or any real adjustments apart from discovering where approximately i need to fix it, OH MY, i've never seen just powerful throw!...

Sorry i couldnt get any pics, i've been flat out!!!!

Over the next couple of days I'm going to try and cement putty the bulb into place so It sits centre, although the beam was distorted, it was really nice to see.

Hopefully get some pics up soon, see how we go.


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## Mr. Tone (Feb 10, 2014)

Sweet! Let us know. That sounds like a great lamp, too. What did you do for the lead?


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## UNiT5 (Feb 12, 2014)

Pictures paint a thousand words.

It was a bit of a rush job, and i made do with what i had, but its fits, works and is producing light.

I thought previously that i wanted to focus on making it more professional and cleaner, but with the limit on time and eagerness to get the light sorted was a factor in it being the slight mess that its in, but i'm quite happy.

Because i live in a complex of townhouses, my neighbour who is usually friendly and likes to have a chat, complained about the light entering his door, which made me slightly upset as there was hardly any spill for it to enter into his house. But then again i could be wrong.

My family thinks that I should be careful regarding police in which i agree making sure that there were no planes or the sort in the sky.

Tonight is cloudy so there is cloud bounce but not as intense a cloud bounce as I hoped.

I did shine the light on my white ceiling to gauge the spot and it shows an intense spot with a starry outer, i'm thinking it has something to do with the reflector possibly not being of quality.

enjoy the pictures.


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## Mr. Tone (Feb 12, 2014)

Nice pics! Now I see how you made the lead work. Do you have anywhere in a rural area to let her rip so you don't have to worry about offending your neighbor?


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## UNiT5 (Feb 12, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> Nice pics! Now I see how you made the lead work. Do you have anywhere in a rural area to let her rip so you don't have to worry about offending your neighbor?



Yes.

Once i mount the pcbs into the enclosure, i will take her for a rap somewhere where its open.


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## Mr. Tone (Feb 12, 2014)

Let her stretch those legs............


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## UNiT5 (Feb 14, 2014)

update, i wanted to tai some more beam shots but stupid me left the inverter running without the heatsink side panel on the mosphets and what do you know, boom!

There goes my inverter. so i go to RS Australia to get some mosphets, replaced the blown mosphet, and again BOOM. So yeh, me being a wannabe PCB repairer, unfortunately i'm not, I've had to re-order a cheap inverter from China...

Now the waiting game, 20 - 30 days before it arrives. Although, i did get some cool looking switches for the enclosure...


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## Mr. Tone (Feb 15, 2014)

Those are cool. That's too bad on your electronics problem. Hopefully you will get her up and running again.


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## UNiT5 (Feb 17, 2014)

Mr. Tone said:


> Those are cool. That's too bad on your electronics problem. Hopefully you will get her up and running again.



haha cheers sir :thumbsup:


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## get-lit (Feb 17, 2014)

In your last pic of the potted lamp, you may have potted the lamp too far up the seal. That length is needed for the amount of temperature transition the quartz glass can withstand from the envelope to the base. Seems to work, but if you have a leakage or a pop, this would be the reason.

The star you see is from a reflector with inaccurate parabolic reflection. Even if the reflector was formed nearly perfect, bending it beyond it's elasticity will permanently deform it making the star pattern, so thinner reflectors tend to do this. It takes extremely small deviation to make the star pattern. This is exactly why a thick nickel substrate is used for optical grade reflectors.


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## UNiT5 (Feb 18, 2014)

Yes I might get you to give me some advice when potting the new bulb into the Thor.

Also, i had an e-mail reply from Neal Elli from Empireprecision.com regarding a aluminium mirror reflector that will withstand the heat. He wouldnt elaborate too much although he did mention i would need to submit a drawing.... So now i'm thinking Jesus Christ, a drawing? hahah great, i mean i used to good at technical drawing about 15 years ago in High School...

As i am still into the stages of researching which reflector i should opt for, your wealth of information get-lit is fantastic, and i appreciated your advice its absolutely great that you're helping me i can't thank you enough. 

Just waiting for funds for the Thor, finish my moon blaster is also still in its stages.


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## UNiT5 (Feb 18, 2014)

clear night shot, but could do with setting my camera a little better.

my brother was at his fiances house and could see the beam from 6kms away. it was cloud bouncing from 6kms away. so cant wait to see what the rival maxablaster will acheive!


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## Mr. Tone (Feb 18, 2014)

Nice pic. Ah, cloud bouncing.......


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## get-lit (Feb 18, 2014)

Never heard of that reflector manufacturer, but their website indicates that are using today's best manufacturing processes and coatings.

*Here's good info on coatings*

*Here's reflectivity graphs*
*
Here's reflectivity graphs for Metallic Coatings*


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## bshanahan14rulz (Feb 26, 2014)

TL;DR: maybe try making a DIY wire welder using a disposable camera?

A bit late to the party, but folks trying to rebuild e-cig coil heads on the cheap found that they needed a way to weld non-resistive wire to the kanthal or nichrome heating wire. Instead of buying a $2 coilhead, you can rebuild for the cost of a small amount of resistance wire, wick material, and a wire welder. Well, hard to find a cheap wire welder when you are going out of your way to save a few bucks. http://breaktru.com/smf/index.php?topic=733.0 < has some info on how that project started and is going. I don't follow it greatly, I just remember hearing about using disposable cameras for welding NR wire for rebuilding e-cig coil heads. The wire gauge they deal with is ~26-34 ga


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## The_Driver (Nov 14, 2014)

Any Updates?


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## Domdom (Jan 8, 2015)

Would be good to call BATMAN


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## thinkFlashlights01 (Jan 12, 2015)

Better get past the law of not pointing your light up in the sky.:nana:


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## FRITZHID (Jan 12, 2015)

Damn sky Nazis.


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## scotsguy (Jan 16, 2015)

Can you explain something for me as a noob?
You're using a *p-vip 120* lamp which i understand is a 120watt lamp, powering it from 3SLAs & an invertor?
Why wouldn't one use a 2000watt lamp powered with 110volts from said invertor? Like this lamp>
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-watt...443?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339bb2a1f3
Am I just confusing the watts/light output values?
By the way, great spec sheet for your lamp here > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SAGEM-HDD-45S-P-VIP-100-120-1-3-E23h-TOP-OSRAM-TV-LAMP-/270647129745


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## FRITZHID (Jan 16, 2015)

I'm not 100% sure why the OP chose that particular bulb but the fact that it's a small point light source (arc lamp) not a large heated coil probably has allot to do with it, as well as runtime, bulb life, cooling, size, etc....


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## The_Driver (Jan 16, 2015)

@scotsguy: answering your question is going to require a lot of explaining. I will try to do some of it. 

The short answer: brightness (lumens) of a lightsource (the bulb) is not what causes a light to throw. The luminance of the lightsource (basically the intensity) is what determines throw together with the diameter of the reflector. The Osram P-VIP is a high-pressury mercury short-arc HID (high intensity discharge) bulb (filled with gas) that is way more intense than the 2000W Halogen bulb that you mentioned. Luminance is measured in cd/mm^2 (Candela per square millimeter). 
The very best Halogens have a maximum luminance of about 65 cd/mm^2. The 2000W bulb that you mentioned will have a luminance of about 22cd/mm^2. See here for more information regarding the luminance of different light sources (it's in German, so use google translate). 
The 120W P-VIP has a luminance of ~1000 cd/mm^2. This means that the P-VIP bulb is around 45-50 times more intense compared to the 2000W halogen. This means 45 to 50 times more throw (cd or lux) with the same reflector compared to the 2000W halogen.

The intensity of the light source only determines how far the brightest spot in the center of the beam will throw. It does not determine how much light is produced by the lightsource or how much comes out of the light. It also does not determine how big the hotspot of the light will be. The size of the hotspot is determined by the size of the light source (the size of the arc in the HID bulb in this case) and the size and shape of the reflector. However, the size of the arc has no effect on the intensity of the hotspot and thus the throw. If have you have two different lightsources with the same luminance, but one is bigger than the other, they will both throw the same distance when paired with identically sized reflectors. The bigger lightsource will just make the hotspot bigger.

It just so happens that short-arc HID bulbs are the ones with a very high luminance. So if you want very extreme throw you will always have a rather small hotspot.

For comparison: with modern LEDs the highest luminance one can achieve is right around 220cd/mm^2 (de-domed Cree XP-G2 S3 on copper PCB @ 5A). That is noticeably better than even the best halogens, but not in any way close what the best short-arc bulbs can do.


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## FRITZHID (Jan 16, 2015)

Yea, what ^^^he^^^ said.


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## scotsguy (Jan 18, 2015)

The_Driver said:


> @scotsguy: answering your question is going to require a lot of explaining. I will try to do some of it.
> 
> The short answer: brightness (lumens) of a lightsource (the bulb) is not what causes a light to throw. The luminance of the lightsource (basically the intensity) is what determines throw together with the diameter of the reflector. The Osram P-VIP is a high-pressury mercury short-arc HID (high intensity discharge) bulb (filled with gas) that is way more intense than the 2000W Halogen bulb that you mentioned. Luminance is measured in cd/mm^2 (Candela per square millimeter).
> The very best Halogens have a maximum luminance of about 65 cd/mm^2. The 2000W bulb that you mentioned will have a luminance of about 22cd/mm^2. See here for more information regarding the luminance of different light sources (it's in German, so use google translate).
> ...



TY for that, the Leuchtdichten/luminances thread was a good read. I was making a noob mistake reading the simple watt value of a lamp as its brightness.
Off to look at high-pressure discharge lamps now.


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## FRITZHID (Jan 18, 2015)

scotsguy said:


> TY for that, the Leuchtdichten/luminances thread was a good read. I was making a noob mistake reading the simple watt value of a lamp as its brightness.
> Off to look at high-pressure discharge lamps now.



Lot's of helpful info among the threads & most of us flashaholics are very helpful!


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