# It's here the Zebralight SC5C MK II H CRI



## Nichia! (Mar 31, 2017)

http://www.zebralight.com/SC5c-Mk-II-AA-Flashlight-Neutral-White-High-CRI_p_192.html


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## Nichia! (Mar 31, 2017)

Deleted


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## gunga (Mar 31, 2017)

Cool. New clip, slightly changed body. Too bad it's still thick. 

I sold off my old Zebralights. So this will go well.


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## Ozythemandias (Mar 31, 2017)

I went to go grab one, then remembered that I have the SC63W that's only slightly bigger with a lot more performance.

Body design is reminiscent of the old sc600 models


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## markr6 (Mar 31, 2017)

In an attempt to compare size...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?389315-New-Zebralight-SC5&p=5077139#post5077139


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## iamlucky13 (Mar 31, 2017)

markr6 said:


> In an attempt to compare size...
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?389315-New-Zebralight-SC5&p=5077139#post5077139



Thanks! Saved the timing looking up comparison photos. My first thought when seeing the original post was it looks better than the old version. On closer inspection, it looks like the outer mold line changes are limited to right around the button, but with very good effect.

I can't help but notice that while ANSI output is listed, run times are so far not. The output is a big jump over the SC5Fc, as is the CRI. If the new light manages the same runtimes, I'm blown away. Even if the runtimes are shorter but the overall efficiency still roughly the same, it still looks like a worthy improvement.

Eg:
SC5Fc H2 mode - 228 lumens, 0.9 hours, 82-85 CRI 
SC5c mkII H2 mode - 352 lumens, ?? hours, 93-95 CRI

I know I'm comparing a floody to an orange beam head, but comparing the SC5 to the SC5Fw, the difference is only about 5%.


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## twistedraven (Mar 31, 2017)

Nice! I would like that same LED with an 18650 driving it. As it stands, you're getting the same thickness, but only saving about a half-inch of length to run with a far less beefy Eneloop as opposed to a high-drain 18650.


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## markr6 (Mar 31, 2017)

twistedraven said:


> Nice! I would like that same LED with an 18650 driving it. As it stands, you're getting the same thickness, but only saving about a half-inch of length to run with a far less beefy Eneloop as opposed to a high-drain 18650.



One of these days...I'm counting on it!


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## LightObsession (Mar 31, 2017)

I look forward to seeing the run times for this light.

Will they make a head lamp version? I want a right-angle light with these beam qualities.


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## jon_slider (Mar 31, 2017)

twistedraven said:


> Nice! I would like that same LED with an 18650 driving it.



that will probably happen, but, it will be 60% heavier than SC5mk2 (both with batteries)

fwiw, ONE 18650 cell weighs as much as TWO AA cells, 
and the 18650 SC600 series (empty) is more than 40% heavier than an SC5mk2

One SC600 w One battery is as heavy as One SC52 w THREE batteries


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> that will probably happen, but, the carry weight w battery, will be as heavy as TWO SC52 w battery
> 
> fwiw, ONE 18650 cell weighs as much as TWO AA cells
> 
> and One Zebra w 18650 weighs as much as One SC 52 w 14500 or AA eneloop, PLUS two more spare batteries




Not even close Jon. And, we are talking about the SC5 here not the SC52.

The SC5 weighs 49 grams. 

The SC63 weights 38 grams.

A 3500mAh 18650 weighs just over 47 grams.

An Eneloop Pro weighs 30 grams.

SC5 + Eneloop Pro = *79 grams.
*
SC63 + 3500mAh 18650 = *85 grams.

*6 grams extra weight and 12.2mm in extra length is a small price to pay for roughly 4 times the capacity and likely 3 times the lumens imo. The SC63 is thinner then the SC5 too which is nice. I too look forward to a 18650 version of this light. Even if it is heavier then the SC63, it is nice to have the extra output and runtimes imo.

Unfortunately, ZL has said that no "c" 18650 version will be released anytime soon.


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## sticktodrum (Mar 31, 2017)

Oh snap.


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## jon_slider (Mar 31, 2017)

Tachead said:


> A 3500mAh 18650 weighs just over 47 grams.
> 
> An Eneloop Pro weighs 30 grams.


thanks for the battery weights, the 18650 is 56% heavier than the AA Eneloop pro

lets compare models with similar 90+ CRI
the SC600fd 3Plus weighs 78 grams, and offers the 90+ CRI of the SC5mk2 that weighs 49 grams (albeit w a different LED)
the 18650 light is 59% heavier, empty

SC600fd 3Plus w 18650 = 125 grams
SC5mk2 w Eneloop Pro = 79 grams

the 18650 90+ cri light is 58% heavier than the AA Eneloop light w 90+cri

the SC600fd 3Plus with One battery, weighs 14% more than the SC5mk2 w TWO Eneloop pro 

did I get the math right?


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> thanks for the battery weights
> 
> lets start over, and compare models with similar 90+ CRI
> the SC600 series weighs 78 grams, and offers the high CRI of the SC5mk2 (albeit w a different LED)
> ...



Twistedraven was talking about a new light made with this emitter though, not the Plus. Since the Plus just came out, it is far more likely that they will update the SC6X series with this emitter.

Your math is wrong too by the way. The Plus weighs about 111 grams with 3500mAh 18650(going by the specs) or 40.5% more.


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## jon_slider (Mar 31, 2017)

Tachead said:


> it is far more likely that they will update the SC6X series with this emitter.



Im using actual facts for what exists today


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2017)

Also remember, not only do the 18650 lights have three times the output, they also have significantly more runtime. When you consider you might have to carry as much as 3 extra Eneloops to equal the runtime of one 18650 the added weight becomes a non-issue.


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> Im using actual facts for what exists today



That is not what we are talking about though. You replied to his post about a new light using this emitter. This emitter will fit just fine in both the SC63 or 600 series. The SC63 weighs 38 grams.


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2017)

LightObsession said:


> I look forward to seeing the run times for this light.
> 
> *Will they make a head lamp version? I want a right-angle light with these beam qualities.*



Yes, they are releasing 2 versions actually(H53c and H53Fc) with another version down the road possibly(H503c). You can check for upcoming lights on their product comparison page.


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## LightObsession (Mar 31, 2017)

Tachead said:


> Yes, they are releasing 2 versions actually(H53c and H53Fc) with another version down the road possibly(H503c). You can check for upcoming lights on their product comparison page.



Sweet - I look forward to getting one of those.


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2017)

LightObsession said:


> Sweet - I look forward to getting one of those.



Me too. I am hoping for a H503c version though as I want a new light weight mule headlamp for reading. My H600Fc & d already cover most other uses.


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## LightObsession (Mar 31, 2017)

It's too bad that the bezel diameter has increased to 1.2" from 1" or less.


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## lampeDépêche (Mar 31, 2017)

A CRI of 93-95, and it *still* puts out 475 lumens on an AA battery? That's...amazing.

This probably is not the model that I'm going to get--I'm more partial to the H52/SC52 series than to the SC5 series--but once they put this emitter into some other models, I will be buying it.


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## lampeDépêche (Mar 31, 2017)

I was just looking at the Google Docs comparison page, and one thing puzzles me.

They list the soon-to-be-released H53c and H53Fc. But then they say that the H53Fc is "spill and spot", where the H53c is "floody".

Those have got to be backwards, right? They just swapped the beam descriptions?

I'm very excited about this. A little bit sad that the new H52 replacement will not accept 14500s anymore. But if they are using the same circuit as the SC5c, so that it will put out 450+ lumens, then I will overlook my disappointment. (I hope they will not bulk up the weight of the H53c--that would be a big mistake.)


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2017)

lampeDépêche said:


> I was just looking at the Google Docs comparison page, and one thing puzzles me.
> 
> They list the soon-to-be-released H53c and H53Fc. But then they say that the H53Fc is "spill and spot", where the H53c is "floody".
> 
> ...




Yeah, they have it backwards. The Fc is the floody model.


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## lampeDépêche (Mar 31, 2017)

And... the Google Doc has been corrected!

Huh--almost makes you wonder if someone at ZL might have seen this thread....

If so--Hello, Zebralight! I love your lights! Take care of yourselves!


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## markr6 (Mar 31, 2017)

LightObsession said:


> It's too bad that the bezel diameter has increased to 1.2" from 1" or less.



Still 1" from what I can see. One the page and spreadsheet.


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## LightObsession (Mar 31, 2017)

markr6 said:


> Still 1" from what I can see. One the page and spreadsheet.



Earlier, the comparison chart was showing 1.2", the same as the 18650 lights.


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## wolfgaze (Mar 31, 2017)

Very interesting... I like the new clip too (never cared for the original one)... Will have to wait for reports and beamshots once these start getting shipped and received by the end-users... 

Hey what do you all feel would be a reasonable asking price for re-selling a ZL SC5w that's in excellent condition? $40?


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## gunga (Mar 31, 2017)

I prefer my clip.


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## TCY (Mar 31, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> thanks for the battery weights, the 18650 is 56% heavier than the AA Eneloop pro
> 
> lets compare models with similar 90+ CRI
> the SC600fd 3Plus weighs 78 grams, and offers the 90+ CRI of the SC5mk2 that weighs 49 grams (albeit w a different LED)
> ...



According to ZL's product page, the Mk III Plus weights 64 grams. so -14 grams gives you 125-14=111 grams, roughly 40% heavier than the AA high CRI combo.


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## TCY (Mar 31, 2017)

I said in the other duplicate thread that I'm not sure if I should get it as it will just become a dust collector 95% of the time, since I carry the Mk III Plus and I'm perfectly happy with it. The H53Fc is another story though.. maybe I'll grab one of these and wait for the promised sc64 series coming out later this year, hopefully a SC64c/Fc with the same emitter and the sweet 2 step MacAdam ellipse tint range. 

BTW if you are reading this ZL, thank you for sourcing those 2 step LEDs. It seems like the tint lottery is going to be a thing of the past.

Correction: We only get rid of tint lottery when mass quantity of LEDs that are within 1 step MacAdam ellipse are available. 2 is still great and makes sense economically. Remember that the Mk III Plus uses XHP50 within a 3 step MacAdam ellipse and most of the buyers were happy with the tint. Although not perfect, I don't think the SC5c II/H53Fc are going to be a tint lottery like we used to do, 99% of the time.


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## jon_slider (Mar 31, 2017)

thanks for catching my mistake, I had looked up a different SC600 model

so
the SC5cMk2 with TWO batteries, weighs slightly less than the SC600fdMk3Plus with One battery

I do think the SC5cMk2 High CRI sounds like a winner for people that do not require LiIon


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## snowlover91 (Mar 31, 2017)

I'll probably preorder this tonight. I've been waiting for the SC5 to be upgraded with a high cri emitter. It's also about 10 grams lighter according to the specs. A tint of 4000k and 93-95 cri with a 2 step MacAdam ellipse sounds like a winner to me. I'll probably sell one of my older Zebralight to make room for this one.

Something else I noticed about this light... the brightness settings have been tweaked a good deal from the old SC5 model. Medium has 79 now vs 45 lumens and has an extra mode too. Anyone else see this? Also the high mode is about 40 lumens brighter on each sub-level and the step down too. 

Edit: Went ahead and placed my preorder. Hopefully I'll get in on the first shipment! It's going to be tough waiting a month for this one.


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## sampson2269 (Mar 31, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> I'll probably preorder this tonight. I've been waiting for the SC5 to be upgraded with a high cri emitter. It's also about 10 grams lighter according to the specs. A tint of 4000k and 93-95 cri with a 2 step MacAdam ellipse sounds like a winner to me. I'll probably sell one of my older Zebralight to make room for this one.
> 
> Something else I noticed about this light... the brightness settings have been tweaked a good deal from the old SC5 model. Medium has 79 now vs 45 lumens and has an extra mode too. Anyone else see this? Also the high mode is about 40 lumens brighter on each sub-level and the step down too.
> 
> Edit: Went ahead and placed my preorder. Hopefully I'll get in on the first shipment! It's going to be tough waiting a month for this one.



[emoji1360] I placed my preorder about 30 min ago, can't wait to get one of these bad boys, frickin love my zebralights!


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## gunga (Mar 31, 2017)

Yeah. I like the idea of high cri, 4000K, non flood. I'll probably get one.


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## Offgridled (Mar 31, 2017)

This is promising I'm in


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## mhanlen (Apr 1, 2017)

I would actually like a floody version of this My current Mk III HI is a little too throwy for most of the stuff I use it for. Looks nice... and I still might pre-order.


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## TCY (Apr 1, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> I would actually like a floody version of this My current Mk III HI is a little too throwy for most of the stuff I use it for. Looks nice... and I still might pre-order.




Review incoming? :naughty:


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## mhanlen (Apr 1, 2017)

TCY said:


> Review incoming? :naughty:


 If I buy it, I'll do it!


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## aginthelaw (Apr 1, 2017)

wolfgaze said:


> Very interesting... I like the new clip too (never cared for the original one)... Will have to wait for reports and beamshots once these start getting shipped and received by the end-users...
> 
> Hey what do you all feel would be a reasonable asking price for re-selling a ZL SC5w that's in excellent condition? $40?



I'll take it. Unless that's an April fools joke then I'll repeat my interest tomorrow


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## scs (Apr 3, 2017)

Is it unreasonable to expect no unwanted surprises in the first batch?


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## Tachead (Apr 3, 2017)

scs said:


> Is it unreasonable to expect no unwanted surprises in the first batch?


I would wait if your concerned and don't want to be a beta tester. ZL has a history of having issues with their new releases but, they usually quickly work them out in later batches. It's never a good idea to buy the first release of anything(not just flashlights) imo. Companies often don't test new products as well as they should before releasing to the public these days.


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## markr6 (Apr 3, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> I would actually like a floody version of this My current Mk III HI is a little too throwy for most of the stuff I use it for. Looks nice... and I still might pre-order.



The standard SC600 III is very nice IMO. I sold both the neutral white and cool white. They were a nice balance between the frosted and HI. I just ended up using the HI for most of my needs and felt like it was redundant to have both.


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## tocirahl (Apr 3, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> I would actually like a floody version of this My current Mk III HI is a little too throwy for most of the stuff I use it for. Looks nice... and I still might pre-order.



I just contacted Zebralight about an Fc light and although they said they didn't have anything planned, they were able to put a note on my order to have my light made with a frosted lens instead of clear! You might want to try contacting Zebralight to see if you could get the same kind of deal.


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## eraursls1984 (Apr 3, 2017)

twistedraven said:


> Nice! I would like that same LED with an 18650 driving it. As it stands, you're getting the same thickness, but only saving about a half-inch of length to run with a far less beefy Eneloop as opposed to a high-drain 18650.





jon_slider said:


> that will probably happen, but, it will be 60% heavier than SC5mk2 (both with batteries)
> 
> fwiw, ONE 18650 cell weighs as much as TWO AA cells,
> and the 18650 SC600 series (empty) is more than 40% heavier than an SC5mk2
> ...





jon_slider said:


> Im using actual facts for what exists today


He wasn't talking about an existing 18650 light. He is just describing his hopes (and mine) for a more perfect light. By his description you can tell he is referring to the SC62/63 line, not the 600 series.


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## iamlucky13 (Apr 3, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> I would actually like a floody version of this My current Mk III HI is a little too throwy for most of the stuff I use it for. Looks nice... and I still might pre-order.



Presumably the SC5Fc II, with a slightly smaller reflector, and without the flattened high intensity "dome", should be a little bit floodier than the SC600 III, without being nearly as much so as the frosted lens versions.


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## BigBluefish (Apr 3, 2017)

I think I will be preordering this as well. Though they now finally have the SC32w in stock too. OF course I already have an SC5w. But, that's not hi CRI. This will be better in the woods than either of those. Might have to do the CPF thing and get both.


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## TCY (Apr 5, 2017)

Hude update: the MK2 now features multiple UI group.

"New generation SC5, with cool white (600Lm), neutral white, high CRI versions and multiple UI groups"

_Multiple UI Groups_



_This light comes with three UI groups, G5, G6 and G7. The G5, set as the factory default, can be selected with 5-click from OFF, while G6 and G7 can be selected with 6-click and 7-click from OFF respectively. UI group selections are memorized after the light is turned off and through battery changes. _

_In all three UI groups_

_H can be either H1 or H2; M can be either M1 or M2; L can be either L1 or L2_

_from OFF: 1-click to H; 2-click to M; press and hold to cycle from L, M to H_

_In G5_

_H1 is fixed at 475Lm, H2 can be 352, 236, or 144Lm_

_M1 is fixed at 79Lm, M2 can be 40, 18, or 7.4Lm_

_L1 is fixed at 2.8Lm, L2 can be 1.0, 0.28 or 0.08Lm_

_In G6 and G7_

_H1, H2, M1, M2, L1 and L2 can be programmed to any of the 12 available brightness levels_

_Double-click 6 times at the H1, H2, ... L2 to enter the programming mode for that level. Once in the programming mode, use double-click to go up one level and triple-click to go down one level. Use 1-click to exit the programming mode_

_Three consecutive 5-click (or 6-click, 7-click) to reset the G5 (or G6, G7) back to the factory default settings_


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## TCY (Apr 5, 2017)

Nevermind I see Connor mentions this in the ZL official thread right after I click send :wave:


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## LightObsession (Apr 5, 2017)

That's a really cool development. I really like that.


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## snowlover91 (Apr 6, 2017)

Even more excited about my preorder now. The discussion is relevant here too since it's the first ZL to have the programmable UI! When I emailed them they said no plans to add it to the AA model this year but I guess they changed their mind and were able to fit it in! The preorder date is a month later than they said so maybe that's why the delay  Either way I'm really excited, I can finally program my H1 mode as a medium brightness if I want or vice versa.


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## wolfgaze (Apr 6, 2017)

Yeah I'm more intrigued now... Still think I'm going to wait for the initial reviews before pulling the trigger...


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## markr6 (Apr 6, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Even more excited about my preorder now. The discussion is relevant here too since it's the first ZL to have the programmable UI! When I emailed them they said no plans to add it to the AA model this year but I guess they changed their mind and were able to fit it in! The preorder date is a month later than they said so maybe that's why the delay  Either way I'm really excited, I can finally program my H1 mode as a medium brightness if I want or vice versa.



0.8hrs on H1 (475lm) isn't something I want to mess with, so programming H1 at 352 and H2 at 144 is something I would probably do to buy some extra time. We'll see how much I miss having that highest output once I get the light though. I like this!!



wolfgaze said:


> Yeah I'm more intrigued now... Still think I'm going to wait for the initial reviews before pulling the trigger...



I jumped on this quick. I can always return it.


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## TCY (Apr 6, 2017)

So I asked ZL and got confirmation that the new H53c/Fc will feature the multiple UI as well. Definitely will get one.


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## Connor (Apr 6, 2017)

TCY said:


> Nevermind I see Connor mentions this in the ZL official thread right after I click send :wave:



:wave::devil:


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## Witterings (Apr 6, 2017)

UI looks good ... shame it's not possible to update older torches to the same, I'd ideally go between the 312 lm and 139 settings on my SC600w Mk III HI if I could when cycling depending on where you are but having to re-program is waaaayyyyyy toooo much of a faff!!!

Still ... gives me an excuse for more torches if they integrate it into other models :laughing:


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## Swede74 (Apr 6, 2017)

markr6 said:


> 0.8hrs on H1 (475lm) isn't something I want to mess with, so programming H1 at 352 and H2 at 144 is something I would probably do to buy some extra time. We'll see how much I miss having that highest output once I get the light though. I like this!!



475 lm would still be there - never more than 16-17* easy clicks away :laughing:

*15 to revert to factory settings +1 to turn on the light, +2 if you have to turn it off first.


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## eraursls1984 (Apr 6, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> 475 lm would still be there - never more than 16-17* easy clicks away :laughing:
> 
> *15 to revert to factory settings +1 to turn on the light, +2 if you have to turn it off first.


Or just switch to G5, or have the other G6/G7 have it. Only 5-7 clicks away.


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## Swede74 (Apr 6, 2017)

eraursls1984 said:


> Or just switch to G5, or have the other G6/G7 have it. Only 5-7 clicks away.



You are absolutely right. How could I not see that there was a much easier way? Well, if I wasn't taken with the new UI before, I am now.


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## markr6 (Apr 6, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> 475 lm would still be there - never more than 16-17* easy clicks away :laughing:
> 
> *15 to revert to factory settings +1 to turn on the light, +2 if you have to turn it off first.



I wouldn't be using G5. H1 and H2 are programmable in G6 and G7. Just like roger-roger said in another thread:

H1 352
H2 236
M1 144

Done


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## Repsol600rr (Apr 6, 2017)

Is there a difference between g6 and g7? As it looks above they are exactly the same. I was expecting programmable ui later in the year and on 18650s first. But I'm ok with this. I'll end up with the sc5c mkII and an h53c more than likely.


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## eraursls1984 (Apr 6, 2017)

Repsol600rr said:


> Is there a difference between g6 and g7? As it looks above they are exactly the same. I was expecting programmable ui later in the year and on 18650s first. But I'm ok with this. I'll end up with the sc5c mkII and an h53c more than likely.


I don't think so. I think there should be though. G6 could be L1, L2, M1, M2, H1, H2, and G7 could be L1, L2, L3, M1, M2, M3, H1, H2, H3.


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## jon_slider (Apr 6, 2017)

Repsol600rr said:


> Is there a difference between g6 and g7?


yes, they can each be set up differently, with your choice of ANY mode level AND sequence

you could st G6 to be MLH, and G7 to be LMH if you wanted


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## scs (Apr 6, 2017)

eraursls1984 said:


> I don't think so. I think there should be though. G6 could be L1, L2, M1, M2, H1, H2, and G7 could be L1, L2, L3, M1, M2, M3, H1, H2, H3.



I'd like that.:thumbsup:


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## Repsol600rr (Apr 6, 2017)

Got it. So 3 mode groups that are accessible and 2 are full programmable with g5 having fixed h1, m1, l1, basically a stock ui. This sounds fantastic.


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## snowlover91 (Apr 6, 2017)

eraursls1984 said:


> I don't think so. I think there should be though. G6 could be L1, L2, M1, M2, H1, H2, and G7 could be L1, L2, L3, M1, M2, M3, H1, H2, H3.



As I understand it the LMH modes can each only have two modes set, not three? I thought it would be where you set the L1 and L2 brightness, whatever you want them to be. From the instructions it doesn't appear that a third mode would be accessible, like with the current UI. Maybe I'm missing something though? 

Any thoughts on what the ideal UI would be to customize? The stock UI works fairly well as is but wondering what thoughts others had to create an even better one.


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## eraursls1984 (Apr 6, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> As I understand it the LMH modes can each only have two modes set, not three? I thought it would be where you set the L1 and L2 brightness, whatever you want them to be. From the instructions it doesn't appear that a third mode would be accessible, like with the current UI. Maybe I'm missing something though?
> 
> Any thoughts on what the ideal UI would be to customize? The stock UI works fairly well as is but wondering what thoughts others had to create an even better one.


Yes, I'm just saying I would love it if they changed it in the future. Maybe on the 18650 lights. I'd love to have more modes easily accessible. Especially multiple moon modes.


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## noboneshotdog (Apr 7, 2017)

This may be my first AA zebralight, after owning multiple versions of the SC600 over the years. 

Does this latest version have good run times compared to previous AA models? This will be a zombie apocalypse light so if recommendations are given please only compare to other AA statistics and not 14500.


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## snowlover91 (Apr 7, 2017)

noboneshotdog said:


> This may be my first AA zebralight, after owning multiple versions of the SC600 over the years.
> 
> Does this latest version have good run times compared to previous AA models? This will be a zombie apocalypse light so if recommendations are given please only compare to other AA statistics and not 14500.



Zebralight hasn't posted the specs for this model yet with regard to runtimes. They probably will in the next 1-2 weeks but I can't imagine it being much different than their other models.


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## mhanlen (Apr 8, 2017)

tocirahl said:


> I just contacted Zebralight about an Fc light and although they said they didn't have anything planned, they were able to put a note on my order to have my light made with a frosted lens instead of clear! You might want to try contacting Zebralight to see if you could get the same kind of deal.



Thanks for the info... I might do that! 

EDIT: I just ordered one, after reading that they updated the UI. I am just getting a standard lens though... enough people convinced me it isn't as thowy- and I'm excited about the new UI.


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## Swede74 (Apr 8, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> I'm excited about the new UI.



I'm excited about your upcoming* review of the SC5c MkII.

* You know you are top tier reviewer when your fans take for granted that you will review their favourite** lights. 

** You know you've got the zebra bug bad when you take for granted that their latest model will become one of your favourites.


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## snowlover91 (Apr 8, 2017)

Honestly, Zebralights are about the only lights I buy now. I used to get Nitecore, Fenix, Jetbeam, etc but after awhile found their designs boring, the UI clunkier and the cool white LEDs became unbearable the more I got into warm and high CRI lights. Other than my recent Maratac purchases with Nichia, I can't remember the last time I purchased any other brand outside of Zebralight. The combination of a great UI (and even better hopefully with the new one coming out), great combo of brightness and runtime and warm/high cri options make it tough to beat for under $100.


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## recDNA (Apr 8, 2017)

I'd prefer a CR123A version that can take protected 16340


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## Tachead (Apr 8, 2017)

recDNA said:


> I'd prefer a CR123A version that can take protected 16340


Or better yet, a version that can run on 18350, 16340, and CR123a like the Armytek Tiara models.


----------



## marinemaster (Apr 9, 2017)

I will be getting one for sure. My SC52 is daily carry. It goes with me everywhere. Can't wait to get the mk2. Spring and summer spending time outside and some days staying late gets dark is nice when the ZL comes in handy. My Eneloop are charged and ready to go.


----------



## snowlover91 (Apr 11, 2017)

Looking forward to getting the shipping notice for this... would love for these to ship early but I doubt it. Anyone order this who lives internationally? Usually those ship out first. Looking forwarding to comparing this to my SC5.


----------



## lampeDépêche (Apr 12, 2017)

In case you are trying to decide between the SC5 and the H53...

I just got good news from ZL's spokeswoman: the H53c will use a spring on the tailcap, not pogo-pins.

The reason why this matters to me is that the spring in the H52 allows you to feed it on AAA cells without any modifications or spacers.

And the H53c will work the same way. That's several billion more cells that it can make light from, just by dropping it in and screwing down the cap.

I don't want to rehearse the issue of springs vs. pogo-pins in the other ZL lights. When it comes to the SC600 series, I think there are good arguments on both sides. But with the 18650 cell, there is no other cell of a similar length that you could use if the light had springs in place of the pins. So the use of pogo-pins does not immediately lose out on the handy versatility of feeding multiple cell-sizes. 

In the AA format, on the other hand, the ability to use AAAs is a huge benefit (even if they don't support the highest output levels, or not for long). So in that case, it seems to me that the case for preferring springs to pins is much stronger.

My guess is that the H53c will not support the same high output that the SC5C will. instead of 475 on H1, they may have it throttled back to 300 or so (though it does say "brighter" than before, and the H52 was 300 on a regular AA). But since the new H53c will not support 14500s anymore, I suspect they will be using the same circuitry in the H53c that they use in the SC5c. 

Anyhow--I don't want to stop anyone from buying an SC5c. But I *know* that I will be buying an H53c. Pre-orders in a week or so.


----------



## scs (Apr 12, 2017)

lampeDépêche said:


> In case you are trying to decide between the SC5 and the H53...
> 
> I just got good news from ZL's spokeswoman: the H53c will use a spring on the tailcap, not pogo-pins.
> 
> ...



If they are using the same electronics, I hope they'll make a sc53 with it, and I'll get that instead of the sc5 mk2. But I have a feeling the performance of the sc5 and the sc5 mk2 requires a bigger board that does not fit into the H52 or sc52 series.


----------



## lampeDépêche (Apr 12, 2017)

scs said:


> If they are using the same electronics, I hope they'll make a sc53 with it, and I'll get that instead of the sc5 mk2. But I have a feeling the performance of the sc5 and the sc5 mk2 requires a bigger board that does not fit into the H52 or sc52 series.



I don't know if the size of the board will be a limiting factor--we're pretty good at making circuits smaller--but the size and mass of the body is a reason why they might want to throttle back the output of the H53 and Sc53 series. That heavy SC5 body gives a greater initial reservoir for the calories to build up, as well as a slightly bigger surface to dissipate them.

So I doubt that they will pack *all* of the performance of the SC5c into the Sc53 or H53 models. Probably they will run at a lower max output, and perhaps with a more aggressive heat-management setting. 

Ah, hell--get 'em both. The SC5c for the max output, the H53c for the lighter weight, AAA adaptability, and headlamp configuration.


----------



## radellaf (Apr 12, 2017)

I have a SC52d that I wish was a c, and an XPL vs XML would be a new thing for the collection. But I would much rather it be the thinner (possible) SC53c and I hope with PID H1 like the also under-heatsunk SC63. An SC63c might be a better option for me, though. I have a Convoy S2 size and an L10 high CRI nichia, and a really old SC51c with the Luxeon rebel. The SC52d is 85CRI which certainly isn't shabby but I would like a "c" Zebralight newer than the SC51, be it an AA or 18650 model. For light quality, though, the 4000k Nichia is probably spoiling me even if it is using a linear driver. Not sure if the XPL will quite measure up in the reds.

I'll be the only one in the world thinking this, I bet: I wish the SC5 was bored to accommodate a NiMH A cell (17500 size). Why? Just out of tech nostalgia for the cell size and wanting something that could run off it. The SC5 is big enough and power hungry enough to make good use of one. 3000mAh, but 5A max discharge for the PKcell NiMH A. Doesn't the SC5 pull 6A at H1?


----------



## davidt1 (Apr 12, 2017)

H53c looks like for me. So quick click can now be set to low in g5 and g6, yes? That would be opposite of the factory setting for those who sometimes do not get the press and hold right and get blinded with high instead. And long press can now be set to high in g5 and g6, yes?


----------



## Robe (Apr 15, 2017)

Ordered two. One for a gift and one because I've never held a ZL!


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## snowlover91 (Apr 15, 2017)

Robe said:


> Ordered two. One for a gift and one because I've never held a ZL!



Get ready to open up your wallet for more Zebralights after you receive these two lol!


----------



## Robe (Apr 15, 2017)

I've had my eye on others.


----------



## Robe (Apr 15, 2017)

I've had my eye on others.


----------



## wolfgaze (Apr 16, 2017)

Robe said:


> Ordered two. *One for a gift* and one because I've never held a ZL!



That's a nice gesture... Who is going to be the lucky recipient?


----------



## Robe (Apr 16, 2017)

Friend of ours just turned 21. He'd asked me about flashlight recommendations because his job requires him to be out in rural areas, and he knows I like lights. 

He wanted something small with AA batteries. I told him I'd make a list of my recommendations but I just went ahead and grabbed these.


----------



## Lemurian (May 1, 2017)

I pre-ordered one. The site now lists it as backordered. They have runtimes now. This is my first zebralight, so I have a few questions:
1)Any word on delivery? I can't wait to test it out, the sooner the better.
2)Also, what are the zebralight runtime curves usually like?
3)I have some white eneloops. Is it worth going with the pros?
I look forward to adding it to my small collection (Surefire e2d, prometheus beta qrv2 brass, x-light micro). Thanks to los aficionados!


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## Koam (May 1, 2017)

ZL response to my inquiry about when the light will ship...

We started shipping on the 30th for some international orders. We'll start shipping for U.S. orders once we receive our shipment from China (in about 10 days). We may not be able to fill all pre-orders with the first batch though.


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## Robe (May 1, 2017)

Egads!


----------



## TCY (May 1, 2017)

Lemurian said:


> I pre-ordered one. The site now lists it as backordered. They have runtimes now. This is my first zebralight, so I have a few questions:
> 1)Any word on delivery? I can't wait to test it out, the sooner the better.
> 2)Also, what are the zebralight runtime curves usually like?
> 3)I have some white eneloops. Is it worth going with the pros?
> I look forward to adding it to my small collection (Surefire e2d, prometheus beta qrv2 brass, x-light micro). Thanks to los aficionados!



1. Depends on where you live. on ZL's website, click the little "free shipping" icon and it will bring up a table showing typical delivery times to major countries.

2. All ZL lights are fully regulated iirc, which means all brightness levels except those with PID should be putting out the specified lumens for the specified amount of time without stepping down e.g. the H2b level of SC5c Mk II puts out 236 lumens for 1.5 hours as per specified on ZL product page. 

Notice that ZL states "Remaining battery power, about 10-20%, after step-down are not counted towards the runtimes" which means in this case the SC5c can still work on lower modes until the battery is fully depleted.

3. Your non-pro Eneloops have 2,000 mAh capacity whereas the pro version has 2,550. ZL tests their runtimes with the pro version so if you are using the non-pros, runtimes are going to be a tad bit shorter for you. Personally I would stick with what I have but if you'd like to enjoy the glorious runtimes specified by ZL, go for it :thumbsup:


----------



## snowlover91 (May 1, 2017)

Koam said:


> ZL response to my inquiry about when the light will ship...
> 
> We started shipping on the 30th for some international orders. We'll start shipping for U.S. orders once we receive our shipment from China (in about 10 days). We may not be able to fill all pre-orders with the first batch though.




Sounds about right. Usually they have more preorders than they can fill in the first batch with new releases IME. I preordered not long after it was listed so I should get one from the first batch! I'm surprised we don't have any international members who have received shipping notifications or posted about it?


----------



## vadimax (May 2, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Sounds about right. Usually they have more preorders than they can fill in the first batch with new releases IME. I preordered not long after it was listed so I should get one from the first batch! I'm surprised we don't have any international members who have received shipping notifications or posted about it?



We have no pre-order option. For example, NKON has it listed, but with the "out of stock" status. The only option -- to be notified via e-mail when restocked.


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## iamlucky13 (May 2, 2017)

Lemurian said:


> 2)Also, what are the zebralight runtime curves usually like?
> 3)I have some white eneloops. Is it worth going with the pros?



2) Maukka has H1 and H2 curves here on the old version. Main thing to note is a timed step down on H1 mode:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Zebralight-SC5Fc-measurements-(AA-warm-tint)

3) It depends on how important runtime is to you. You have the regular Eneloops now though, so unless you definitely need to maximize runtime, try those and see how they do.


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## Antal gábor (May 2, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Sounds about right. Usually they have more preorders than they can fill in the first batch with new releases IME. I preordered not long after it was listed so I should get one from the first batch! I'm surprised we don't have any international members who have received shipping notifications or posted about it?


Hi! I live in central Europe (Hungary). I received notification of shipment April 2014. 28. Tracking does not show any movement ... Great excitement !!!


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## markr6 (May 2, 2017)

I definitely hit the first batch, so getting anxious!!


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## snowlover91 (May 2, 2017)

Antal gábor said:


> Hi! I live in central Europe (Hungary). I received notification of shipment April 2014. 28. Tracking does not show any movement ... Great excitement !!!



Thanks for sharing, please update us once you receive the light with your initial impressions! And welcome


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## Antal gábor (May 8, 2017)

Yeahhh ... 17track shows that the package is in Beijing!  About two weeks and I send my first impression post !!! :rossz:


----------



## TCY (May 8, 2017)

BTW a guy in a Chinese forum has already received the light. No beamshots though or I would relink it here.


----------



## TCY (May 8, 2017)




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## Antal gábor (May 8, 2017)

I think we need to introduce a new psychological definition! The name of the new disease is: Zebra-Envy!


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## snowlover91 (May 8, 2017)

Thanks for sharing those pics TCY! Is there any comment on the performance of the light or tint?


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## TCY (May 8, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Thanks for sharing those pics TCY! Is there any comment on the performance of the light or tint?



Unfortunately no, I wish the lucky adopter would take his new light when it's dark and crank out some beamshots


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## Swede74 (May 10, 2017)

A few more pictures I found here

(Google translate)






















I think (but am not 100% sure) credit should go to "Torch King" forum user Kevingod1/Kevedod1.


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## gunga (May 10, 2017)

Cool. Looks pretty good.


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## jon_slider (May 10, 2017)

TCY said:


>



nice amber color



Swede74 said:


> A few more pictures I found here



thanks for the link, it includes this pic




neutral white tint promising

Im looking forward to a CRI test by maukka
there is an 83CRI model, and a 93CRI model. don't know what the pics are from


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## geokite (May 11, 2017)

One of the best looking AA lights I've seen, with amazing specs. 

Steve


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## vadimax (May 11, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> nice amber color
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I guess you may easily distinguish high CRI emitter by yellow phosphorus layer covering the entire chip. Its dome is not entirely translucent as well (has phosphorus "dissolved" in it, creating a yellow "haze").


----------



## Nichia! (May 11, 2017)

Judging by looking at the LED it will be beautiful tint..

I wander if we can see a HI Version?


----------



## Nichia! (May 11, 2017)

Any word about the tint from you guys?


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## jon_slider (May 11, 2017)

vadimax said:


> I guess you may easily distinguish high CRI emitter by yellow phosphorus layer covering the entire chip.


I do not know if the 4500k 83CRI and the 4000k 93CRI LEDs look the same or different from each other
that photo could be of either LED, the SC5c or the SC5w.. both have more amber phosphors than the Cool White, which looks greenish in the above photo


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## snowlover91 (May 11, 2017)

The waiting for beamshots and tint reports is agonizing... and waiting for my light to be shipped. Hopefully next week it does!


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## vadimax (May 12, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> I do not know if the 4500k 83CRI and the 4000k 93CRI LEDs look the same or different from each other
> that photo could be of either LED, the SC5c or the SC5w.. both have more amber phosphors than the Cool White, which looks greenish in the above photo



The left LED has phosphorus layer extending beyond the dome -- even the corners of the chip are yellow. This is a high CRI emitter.

At least this is a photo of MT-G2 EasyWhite:


----------



## markr6 (May 12, 2017)

Oh I kinda forgot I ordered this thing! April 30 came and went. Watching my email for a notification...


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## snowlover91 (May 12, 2017)

markr6 said:


> Oh I kinda forgot I ordered this thing! April 30 came and went. Watching my email for a notification...



I checked with Zebralight and they said US orders, as usual, would ship about 10 days after the international ones. We should be seeing notifications early next week... I added the priority mail too so I don't have to wait as long lol. How do you like the design of the new one based off early pics?


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## markr6 (May 12, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> I checked with Zebralight and they said US orders, as usual, would ship about 10 days after the international ones. We should be seeing notifications early next week... I added the priority mail too so I don't have to wait as long lol. How do you like the design of the new one based off early pics?



I like what I see! Sometimes subtle changes make a big difference. I think I'll like this body a lot better than the SC5.


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## snowlover91 (May 13, 2017)

I'm thinking these will be shipping to US customers this Monday or Tuesday based on some recent releases. I imagine their shipment came in over the Friday/Saturday timeframe and they'll start shipping them out Monday or Tuesday. I could be wrong... but really hope so! Surprised no one on here international has received one yet.


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## snowlover91 (May 13, 2017)

markr6 said:


> I like what I see! Sometimes subtle changes make a big difference. I think I'll like this body a lot better than the SC5.



What settings are you planning to go with for the 3 modes? I'm considering keeping the high mode as the single click but having 79 lumens as H1 and 236 lumens as H2 since those would be my most used high settings. I'd probably leave low stock but with a lower L2 level. For the double click, medium, maybe just have the 475 turbo and 352 as M1/2. It's hard to figure out what the best setup would be since I like high as the single click and low and press/hold.


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## Swede74 (May 15, 2017)

I placed an order for a SC5c with nkon.nl today. The estimated shipping date (from the Netherlands) is May 19. That tells me that dealer(s) in Europe expect to receive their lights by the end of this week.


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## markr6 (May 15, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> What settings are you planning to go with for the 3 modes? I'm considering keeping the high mode as the single click but having 79 lumens as H1 and 236 lumens as H2 since those would be my most used high settings. I'd probably leave low stock but with a lower L2 level. For the double click, medium, maybe just have the 475 turbo and 352 as M1/2. It's hard to figure out what the best setup would be since I like high as the single click and low and press/hold.



It's hard to say at this point, but the low and medium will likely stay as is out of the box. H1 and H2 sound nice at 352lm and 236lm (or 144?) since the 475lm doesn't seem practical to me, even as a quick burst. I'm sure it would end up getting used more than I think, leaving me with a half dead battery or worse most of the time.


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## scs (May 15, 2017)

This is how I'd configure mine:


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## scs (May 15, 2017)

I've thought about putting the H modes in the L slot, and the L modes in the H slot. M modes stay in the M slot.
Thus, single click brings up the L modes: no more preflash and accidental self-blindings.
Hold for the H modes; easy enough.

Or

Put the H modes in the M slot, so double click from off gets you to them.
L modes in the H slot, so single click for L modes again.
Press and hold for M modes.


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## vadimax (May 16, 2017)

Perhaps, I will bite my elbows, but I have ordered one at NKON. Would be much wiser to wait for a review, but it is so damn long.


----------



## markr6 (May 16, 2017)

Checking my inbox hourly...come on and ship ship ship!


----------



## PocketLight88 (May 16, 2017)

Such a cool little light, I have some eneloops looking for a light to power up!


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## Mattz68 (May 16, 2017)

I'm getting that "pre-flashlight rush" as well! 4000k, 95hi-cri...put into the coolest looking AA flashlight I've seen -close to perfection for me.


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## scs (May 16, 2017)

It would be wise to maintain the right frame of mind towards this light: it's a single AA light that should be prized for its high CRI with reasonably solid bright output and user programmable levels. The second you dwell on the shortlived absolute max output, you'll realize how short it is indeed and YEARN for longer runtimes. Then, all of a sudden, you want something even better, and the light in your hand no longer looks appealing.


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## Mattz68 (May 16, 2017)

Yeah there's definitely limitations to the AA battery when it comes to high output...but I'll only be using the 475 in absolute "burst mode" situations -if ever. For the record, without being too spastic -I can change a battery in less than 5 sec if I need more run time. Ideally -a SC63c would have been best for sure, but it's nice to not have to rely on lithium-ion batteries.


----------



## Robe (May 16, 2017)

Right. I mean, I like he my HDS Rotary 200 and it's rare I use it on high for more than 5 seconds.


----------



## Nichia! (May 16, 2017)

Here's what the tint will look like on the MK ll 
( pic taken from zl h53c headlamp thread )


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## snowlover91 (May 16, 2017)

Tint sounds promising, as quoted by TCY about the H53c which has the same emitter as the SC5 MK2. 

"Tint is perfect. Absolutely perfect. Pure white 4000K with no hue whatsoever. ZL might be the only company that offers flashlight with a 2-step Macadam ellipse tint variation. This is the perfect gift for tint snobs"


----------



## scs (May 16, 2017)

Do keep in mind this is from a frosted lens, which helps blend any tint and beam defects.
Let's hope the outcome with the reflector is just as pleasing.


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## snowlover91 (May 16, 2017)

scs said:


> Do keep in mind this is from a frosted lens, which helps blend any tint and beam defects.
> Let's hope the outcome with the reflector is just as pleasing.



Good point.. at least from the pics it looked like a nice warm tint which is promising. Just wish someone had one to let us know.. the wait is agonizing!


----------



## markr6 (May 17, 2017)

In the meantime, see TCY's post with some comparisons and the H53c: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...te-High-CRI!&p=5096133&viewfull=1#post5096133

SC5c_ should _be the same. It would be great to do away with the lotto on this one. Looks good to me!


----------



## TCY (May 17, 2017)

markr6 said:


> In the meantime, see TCY's post with some comparisons and the H53c: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...te-High-CRI!&p=5096133&viewfull=1#post5096133
> 
> SC5c_ should _be the same. It would be great to do away with the lotto on this one. Looks good to me!



I gotta tell ya, this is GOOD TINT!


----------



## Mattz68 (May 17, 2017)

Oh yeah -ORDER SHIPPED!


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## markr6 (May 17, 2017)

SHIPPED!!!! With Priority USPS, I should have it Friday.


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## snowlover91 (May 17, 2017)

Mine has shipped also... should get it by Friday or Saturday at the latest!


----------



## Koam (May 17, 2017)

Mine shipped too. Also, my H53c shipped today too.


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## snowlover91 (May 17, 2017)

Tracking updated on mine for a delivery this Saturday! Whoever gets theirs first better post beam shots and give a detailed review lol! The wait is agonizing.


----------



## markr6 (May 18, 2017)

Can't wait! But I'm already wishing this was an 18650 light...they better make some SC63c/d models!!!


----------



## revelous (May 18, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Tracking updated on mine for a delivery this Saturday! Whoever gets theirs first better post beam shots and give a detailed review lol! The wait is agonizing.



When did you purchase? No updates yet on my preorder from April 23.


----------



## Robe (May 18, 2017)

I ordered on April 11. No tracking for me.


----------



## markr6 (May 18, 2017)

I ordered March 31 @ noon. Shipped May 17.


----------



## TCY (May 18, 2017)

markr6 said:


> I ordered March 31 @ noon. Shipped May 17.



Please post some unboxing photos for those without the preorder:naughty:


----------



## vadimax (May 18, 2017)

Ordered on May 16, expected to ship on May 19. Well, at least Arjan told that


----------



## snowlover91 (May 18, 2017)

Robe said:


> I ordered on April 11. No tracking for me.



Usually their preorders ship in "batches" and the first shipment typically is only enough to fill those who preordered the day of, or right after, the release date. Then additional batches seem to arrive every 1-3 weeks depending on demand to fill additional preorders.


----------



## markr6 (May 18, 2017)

TCY said:


> Please post some unboxing photos for those without the preorder:naughty:



Will do! I was hoping for Friday, but it will be Saturday for sure. Unfortunately my mail comes 3:00PM or later being on the edge of town...so I'll be waiting!


----------



## Robe (May 18, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Usually their preorders ship in "batches" and the first shipment typically is only enough to fill those who preordered the day of, or right after, the release date. Then additional batches seem to arrive every 1-3 weeks depending on demand to fill additional preorders.



No complaints here. Just putting my date out to get an idea of timelines.


----------



## Anders (May 18, 2017)

*Order Date:* 5/3/2017
*Shipped Date*: 5/5/2017

And this is the last shipping detail from them: 
2017-05-08 19:35 Shanghai Exchange Bureau, have been exported directly

But this was shipped via postal airmail.

Nothing here yet...
Guess the Customs is delaying the parcel..


----------



## snowlover91 (May 18, 2017)

Robe said:


> No complaints here. Just putting my date out to get an idea of timelines.



Hopefully you'll see a tracking notice in the next week or so  The waiting is the hardest part... especially if the light is getting rave reviews haha.


----------



## jon_slider (May 18, 2017)

TCY said:


> I gotta tell ya, this is GOOD TINT!


those are great photos 
I took out the labels so people can just look at the colors for a minute

personal preference quiz:

which one do you like best, left, middle or right?;-)


----------



## mellowman (May 18, 2017)

middle cuz the whites look white not yellowish white. 

hi cri doesn't compensate for color temp.

too bad ZL chose 4000K XP-L2 hi cri instead of the 4500K XP-L2 hi cri but maybe even though listed in cree datasheet is not actually available.


----------



## Robe (May 18, 2017)

I like left. I like warmer tints and that left shot is warm, pleasing, and beautiful. 

Middle is seemingly perfect, but I like the more rosy look. Right looks warm but green. Given the choice I don't care for the right.


----------



## scs (May 18, 2017)

Center one's got a red cast.
The wood grain and wood color show up richer on the right than the left, and also more natural on the right than the center.
The green on the right looks almost neon though
The blue on the right looks deeper than the other 2, and with a hint of purple, making the battery holder look less translucent.
The white on the Eneloop in the center one really pops and is in sharp contrast from the blue Eneloop logo, which the other two lack.
The black on the cap is richer on both left and center, but washed out on the right.

Man. Tough choice. None of the above!


----------



## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

Updated - OUT FOR DELIVERY :twothumbs

p.s. The photos above - center is perfect. Left is pretty good. Right is yellowish green and I don't like it. But I'm afraid that's what I'm getting with this new light. We'll see later today


----------



## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

markr6 said:


> Updated - OUT FOR DELIVERY :twothumbs
> 
> p.s. The photos above - center is perfect. Left is pretty good. Right is yellowish green and I don't like it. But I'm afraid that's what I'm getting with this new light. We'll see later today



Mine is out for delivery as well! I won't get my hands on it until around 6pm when I get off work... Mark if you're the first to get one make sure to post beamshots and impressions


----------



## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

I don't want to get my hopes up, so I'll start off by comparing it to my SC5w, SC63w, etc. If I like what I see, I'll go up against the Nichias.


----------



## Robe (May 19, 2017)

Robe said:


> I like left. I like warmer tints and that left shot is warm, pleasing, and beautiful.
> 
> Middle is seemingly perfect, but I like the more rosy look. Right looks warm but green. Given the choice I don't care for the right.



I changed my mind. I like the middle better after some rereading and looking. Left is still nice, but I like the center now. 

A major difference might be that night shift mode was on my phone when I looked last, lol.


----------



## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

Robe said:


> I changed my mind. I like the middle better after some rereading and looking. Left is still nice, but I like the center now.
> 
> A major difference might be that night shift mode was on my phone when I looked last, lol.



Yeah the Eneloop is actually white in the center photo. My eyes immediately go to that.


----------



## Robe (May 19, 2017)

Got my shipping notices!


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## Robe (May 19, 2017)

Got my shipping notices! Double post. Sorry.


----------



## roger-roger (May 19, 2017)

mellowman said:


> middle cuz the whites look white not yellowish white.
> 
> hi cri doesn't compensate for color temp.
> 
> too bad ZL chose 4000K XP-L2 hi cri instead of the 4500K XP-L2 hi cri but maybe even though listed in cree datasheet is not actually available.





I like the middle tint, and agree with a preference for 4500k. 

At the same time the Eneloop in the middle pic, is whiter than the few Eneloop I just pulled for comparison. The right pic comes closer to showing the very much tinted *tinted* white on the Eneloop I have on hand, the yellow distortion on the top/bottom of the battery not withstanding.


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## iamlucky13 (May 19, 2017)

Because the three comparison photos Jon shared from the H53C thread were all taken at the same white balances, the differences in color temperature of the emitters (5000K, 4885K, and 4000K respectively labeled) affect the comparison, especially of the white regions and the overall sense of red hue.

As a result, I think I prefer the middle, but I'm not quite sure, and the left one might be a bit more neutral.

What's really interesting is if you go to the thread, there's also a low CRI Nitecore P12 shown, too. On that one, the red definitely looks dull, and the green over-saturated. The other three all look much better to my eyes, reinforcing the value of high CRI in general.


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## stickx (May 19, 2017)

SHIPPED  My order was placed on April 23. My first Zebralight!


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

Mine has been delivered! I'll be home around 6 to post impressions!


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## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

Just got it. Very first impressions...YELLOW **** TINT. Maybe I just don't appreciate the warmer CCTs enough. But compared to my SC52w, the SC52w is white and cannot tell the CRI apart. The form? MUCH BETTER than the SC5 brick.







Will compare...


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## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

Can't capture it on camera. The SC5c is A LOT more yellow in person. No good! YELLOW! Looks like one of those anti-bug bulbs you put in outdoor light fixtures. I saw this same thing in an old SC62w I purchased.


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## gunga (May 19, 2017)

Hmmm. Disappointed. But the form is that much better than the sc5?


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## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

gunga said:


> Hmmm. Disappointed. But the form is that much better than the sc5?



From what I can remember. I sold mine, so unfortunately I can't compare. Every little bit helps, and I really think this one is a winner in that respect.

The clip? Freakin POCKET SHREDDER! I can barely get it onto a credit card let alone my jeans. I won't bother bending it since I'm not keeping this. Comparison with the SC52w:


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## mhanlen (May 19, 2017)

Just got mine today. Put in a freshly charged eneloop... I like the tint fine... however on L2... I programmed it to the lowest possible mode and it flickers. Also L1 default has pretty low frequency PWM. There is a distinct difference between the flickering and PWM. The PWM should be detectable if you wave it pretty fast and you can see scrolling lines confirming it when you aim your cameraphone at it. I was actually excited for the light with the new UI, but not a fan of the PWM- and I'm wondering if the flickering on L2 is just a bad unit or other people experience it. 

I probably will just send it back. I'm pretty disappointed, especially after I really liked my SC600w mk II and mk III.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> Just got mine today. Put in a freshly charged eneloop... I like the tint fine... however on L2... I programmed it to the lowest possible mode and it flickers. Also L1 default has pretty low frequency PWM. There is a distinct difference between the flickering and PWM. The PWM should be detectable if you wave it pretty fast and you can see scrolling lines confirming it when you aim your cameraphone at it. I was actually excited for the light with the new UI, but not a fan of the PWM- and I'm wondering if the flickering on L2 is just a bad unit or other people experience it.
> 
> I probably will just send it back. I'm pretty disappointed, especially after I really liked my SC600w mk II and mk III.



Just got mine! I tried the modes you mentioned and didn't have any flickering issues at all. It may be an issue with the light since mine doesn't exhibit this behavior. 

Ill be posting some beam shots tonight and comparisons. Overall I'm very pleased! It's a nice warm tint, if you're used to 4500k and higher lights it may catch you off guard but once using it for a few minutes I can see how it does a much better job rendering the colors I've tested it out on.


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## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

Someone said it best in one of these recent threads: high CRI does not make up for a bad tint. Comparing this SC5c to my Manker E01 4000K Nichia 219B, I would have expected the results to be in the same ballpark. Not really. I think I can tell the CRI is there, but the yellow on the SC5c is appalling. When things are supposed to be white, I want to see it as white...or pretty close. A 2700K lightbulb is doing that better than this SC5c.


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## Mattz68 (May 19, 2017)

Just got mine -First impressions: size is definitely smaller than its predecessor -closer to the 52, yet still more "robust/hefty". Feels GREAT in the hand (basically, for all intents and purposes -a smaller version of the SC600). Fit and finish, threads -excellent, Z.L. has got this above other Chinese brands. The clip, like Mark6 said, is FIRM! Definitely needs bending or your pockets will suffer! (Aesthetically, I like the change though). As far as the tint goes -and I consider myself a snob -i think it's outstanding! A golden/Amber 4000k -with very good cri. It goes head to head with my all time favorite SC 51c, Rebel which no light has surpassed thus far -not even the Nichia 219 c that I had briefly. And finally -beam profile...I was nervous about this, didn't want the small "hot spot" of the SC600HI. My to my relief, it's more like an xpg -so not bad up close, but still gives some distance. Taking a state park near my house tonight -very excited!


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## mhanlen (May 19, 2017)

So you didn't see any PWM on 2.8 lumen L1 either? Good to hear that I just may have a bum unit. I sent them an email- so we'll see what happens. According to their website- it's current controlled, so I shouldn't be seeing PWM.


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## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

Mattz68 said:


> Just got mine -First impressions: size is definitely smaller than its predecessor -closer to the 52, yet still more "robust/hefty". Feels GREAT in the hand (basically, for all intents and purposes -a larger version of the SC600). Fit and finish, threads -excellent, Z.L. has got this above other Chinese brands.



I agree with this. I see the SC5w II is for sale. I'm all over that. I'd rather play the lotto on that than fool myself into keeping a high CRI candle projector.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

Alright everyone, here are some pictures comparing the new SC5C MK II to my old SC5W. I won't say which is which and let everyone decide which they think is better, and why. All pictures were taken with a fresh eneloop on the H1 setting, same camera settings and all for each one. 





















And beam shots... These were taken on a cream colored wall, don't have any white walls in the house so this is the best I could do.


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## Mattz68 (May 19, 2017)

Mark -is it possible that your just not a 4000k kinda guy? I seem to recall from some of your previous post that 5000k (pure white) is your "sweet spot" That's not to say that yellow is desirable -so I totally get what your saying, especially with all the hype around the "2 step" thing. From my experience with 4000k, it's got to hit a brighter golden, not dirty, **** yellow.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> So you didn't see any PWM on 2.8 lumen L1 either? Good to hear that I just may have a bum unit. I sent them an email- so we'll see what happens. According to their website- it's current controlled, so I shouldn't be seeing PWM.



I didn't see any noticeable signs of PWM on the 2.8 lumen setting. I'll try it tonight when its dark as if there is any that's when I can tell better, but as of now definitely no flickering or visible PWM on mine. It could be a bad driver or something on the circuit board causing the issue. 

Also I will say the size/weight reduction is very noticeable. Compared to the SC5w it feels lighter and also is a bit slimmer too.


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## mhanlen (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> I didn't see any noticeable signs of PWM on the 2.8 lumen setting. I'll try it tonight when its dark as if there is any that's when I can tell better, but as of now definitely no flickering or visible PWM on mine. It could be a bad driver or something on the circuit board causing the issue.
> 
> Also I will say the size/weight reduction is very noticeable. Compared to the SC5w it feels lighter and also is a bit slimmer too.



Yeah... I love the footprint of it. But yeah... maybe my unit is bum. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has issues as they roll in.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> Yeah... I love the footprint of it. But yeah... maybe my unit is bum. I'd be curious to know if anyone else has issues as they roll in.



It's going to be my new EDC  Previously it was the SC5w, now this one will replace it. The tint on my sample I would describe as a golden/amber color, very pleasing to the eyes and especially on wood grain and such it excels.


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## mellowman (May 19, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> So you didn't see any PWM on 2.8 lumen L1 either? Good to hear that I just may have a bum unit. I sent them an email- so we'll see what happens. According to their website- it's current controlled, so I shouldn't be seeing PWM.



ZL is deceptive in the statement (among others). ZL used to say constant current but a thread awhile back proved they used PWM with the exception that it didn't turn the LED all the way off but kept it on for the "logical zero" portion, in other words there's a DC bias. I think the thread called this non-PWM but a better term to me is non-return-to-zero PWM. I think in response ZL changed this to say current controlled to give the illusion of what some are looking for of no PWM.

perhaps for low lumen modes the dc bias is soo low it is essentially off so its very close to regular PWM and maybe you are more sensitive to it then others. or it could just be a dud light.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

I posted beam shots and comparison pics at the end of page 6 if anyone wants to see and compare.


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## Mattz68 (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> It's going to be my new EDC  Previously it was the SC5w, now this one will replace it. The tint on my sample I would describe as a golden/amber color, very pleasing to the eyes and especially on wood grain and such it excels.


 THat s why I believe it could be great as a hiking, camping light...it's my hope that it makes the woods come alive with tint/cri combo. With its tuff, substantial feel (but not unecessarily heavy) it should be great for any outdoor activity.


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## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

Mattz68 said:


> Mark -is it possible that your just not a 4000k kinda guy? I seem to recall from some of your previous post that 5000k (pure white) is your "sweet spot" That's not to say that yellow is desirable -so I totally get what your saying, especially with all the hype around the "2 step" thing. From my experience with 4000k, it's got to hit a brighter golden, not dirty, **** yellow.



That thought always crosses my mind, but the 4000K Malkoff dropin I have is totally white. A little rose color from the Nichia, but overall a very white (colorless) light. The old 4300K Zebralights I have are also neutral. Can't say pure white, but much better than this gold. I ordered the SC5w II so we'll see how that does.


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## DavidD (May 19, 2017)

Got mine today! I can't compare it my SC5w - 1 of my kids used & misplaced it  I like warmer tints. I liked the 4500 of the SC5w, & I like this 4000 too. I have not been following this thread & mistakenly put it in G6 without knowing it. I had L2 programmed as H1 & was very confused for a bit! Maybe something else I missed... mine (when off) beacon flashes a lower level every 15 to 18 seconds. It does not seem to be exact. It will flash then 15 seconds later flash again, then 17 seconds flash again, then 16, then 15, then 18 seconds. Weird & I can't figure out if there is a way to turn it off. Thoughts?


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## iamlucky13 (May 19, 2017)

mellowman said:


> ZL is deceptive in the statement (among others). ZL used to say constant current but a thread awhile back proved they used PWM with the exception that it didn't turn the LED all the way off but kept it on for the "logical zero" portion, in other words there's a DC bias. I think the thread called this non-PWM but a better term to me is non-return-to-zero PWM. I think in response ZL changed this to say current controlled to give the illusion of what some are looking for of no PWM.
> 
> perhaps for low lumen modes the dc bias is soo low it is essentially off so its very close to regular PWM and maybe you are more sensitive to it then others. or it could just be a dud light.



That sounds like filtered PWM, which is one means of controlling current.

Other buyers who are sensitive to PWM should post their impressions to help sort out whether mhanlen is experiencing a real effect or got a dud.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

DavidD said:


> Got mine today! I can't compare it my SC5w - 1 of my kids used & misplaced it  I like warmer tints. I liked the 4500 of the SC5w, & I like this 4000 too. I have not been following this thread & mistakenly put it in G6 without knowing it. I had L2 programmed as H1 & was very confused for a bit! Maybe something else I missed... mine (when off) beacon flashes a lower level every 15 to 18 seconds. It does not seem to be exact. It will flash then 15 seconds later flash again, then 17 seconds flash again, then 16, then 15, then 18 seconds. Weird & I can't figure out if there is a way to turn it off. Thoughts?



I know the low battery indicator does this on my SC5 lights I have, it could be an aneliop with a low battery/needs charging? That's the only beacon I can think of that flashes like that.


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## iamlucky13 (May 19, 2017)

markr6 said:


> That thought always crosses my mind, but the 4000K Malkoff dropin I have is totally white. A little rose color from the Nichia, but overall a very white (colorless) light. The old 4300K Zebralights I have are also neutral. Can't say pure white, but much better than this gold. I ordered the SC5w II so we'll see how that does.



I have a high CRI XM-L2 Armytek that I'd also describe as yellowish, but not in a way I find offensive. I think it's partially due to the phosphor mix Cree uses. I discussed over in the tint snob thread some of the apparent differences between Cree and Nichia spectrums, but I'm not sure Cree can get to 93 CRI at 4000K using their prior approach, so I will be interested to see if we can figure out what's going on. If Maukka ever tests one of these, I will read his report with interest.

However, my XM-L2 light is below 3000K, so it was pretty natural for it not to appear neutral.


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## scs (May 19, 2017)

Ah man. It's like she has a cute face, but also cankles. Then on top of that you just realize you've been wearing beer-googles all along.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

Alright, now that it's dark I've had a chance to turn the lights out, test it outside some, and just experiment with it in general. I have to say the more I use it, the more my old SC5w looks like a cool white light and this one is far better if you like warm light. The main thing I've noticed is browns, green and red colors seem to be brought out very well. Comparing it with my Nichia, I'd say the biggest differences are that the Nichia renders white a little better and this one excels with wood, leaves and greenery. Any additional beam shots or comparisons I should try?

The pocket clip is VERY STIFF but all I had to do was bend it and hold it a few seconds and now it clips on/off like it should. The button offers a firm click, not mushy like my older SC5w is. The lighter weight and smaller tube diameter make this feel more like a SC52/62 series light. It's still not quite there but much better.

Mark, you should try yours outdoors if you haven't yet. I've been using mine for about 30 mins and now that my eyes have adjusted to the warmer temp it's very pleasing. Not an ugly yellow or green like some lights I've had.


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## DavidD (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> I know the low battery indicator does this on my SC5 lights I have, it could be an aneliop with a low battery/needs charging? That's the only beacon I can think of that flashes like that.


The battery came fresh outta my maha, & a 4 click battery test yields a 4 flash response. Yet the 15 second beacon continues...


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## mellowman (May 19, 2017)

iamlucky13 said:


> That sounds like filtered PWM, which is one means of controlling current.
> 
> Other buyers who are sensitive to PWM should post their impressions to help sort out whether mhanlen is experiencing a real effect or got a dud.



filtered PWM is something different for different purpose. also you seem to think the PWM controls the current, however PWM is the OUTPUT of the current-mode control circuit.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

DavidD said:


> The battery came fresh outta my maha, & a 4 click battery test yields a 4 flash response. Yet the 15 second beacon continues...



Have you checked to make sure it's not in beacon strobe mode perhaps? 



Beacon-strobe mode can be accessed from 3 short-clicks when the light is Off. Once in the beacon-strobe mode, you can double-click to cycle through different types of beacons and strobes. Beacon-strobe settings are memorized when the light is turned off and through battery changes.


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## DavidD (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Have you checked to make sure it's not in beacon strobe mode perhaps?
> 
> 
> 
> Beacon-strobe mode can be accessed from 3 short-clicks when the light is Off. Once in the beacon-strobe mode, you can double-click to cycle through different types of beacons and strobes. Beacon-strobe settings are memorized when the light is turned off and through battery changes.


It doesn't appear to be. A double click acts the same as from off - it puts it in a constant medium level. Another double click toggles to the other medium. Single turns off & 15 second beacon continues. Also, I tested it more precisely with my phone's stopwatch & it is like 14.8 seconds between flashes (used lap function). I was using an analog wall clock before.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

DavidD said:


> It doesn't appear to be. A double click acts the same as from off - it puts it in a constant medium level. Another double click toggles to the other medium. Single turns off & 15 second beacon continues. Also, I tested it more precisely with my phone's stopwatch & it is like 14.8 seconds between flashes (used lap function). I was using an analog wall clock before.



Hmm very strange, my beacons are about 5 seconds apart but my battery flash is around 15 seconds apart. For some reason it sounds like it might be thinking your battery is low even though it's not. Only other advice I have would be to try a few different batteries to see if it exhibits the same behavior still.


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## Koam (May 19, 2017)

I received both my SC5cII and H53c today. It won't be dark for awhile so can't speak to that. I'm impressed with the size of the H53c but it's the first AA headlamp I've purchased from ZL. The SC5c is a bit smaller than my SC5w to the point I can notice it. Aesthetically, I like the chrome clip better on the SC5w than the black clip with the holes on the SC5cII. I think the black chrome finish of the removable clip that came with the H53c would have looked better than either. The Zebralight printing on the SC5cII is not as sharp as my SC5w which surprised me. This is all nitpicking, overall nice looking light. Really liking the H53c, but I wish the clip wouldn't come preinstalled.

For some reason my lights from ZL always arrive ahead of the original tracking info which is cool.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

More beamshots. Nichia on the left here, MK2 on the right. 







Which one of these is the Nichia, and which one is the SC5 Mk2?


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## jon_slider (May 19, 2017)

mhanlen said:


> Just got mine today. ... it flickers. Also L1 default has pretty low frequency PWM. There is a distinct difference between the flickering and PWM.



to the best of my present understanding, Zebralight uses constant current with a feedback loop that creates a type of "circuit noise". 

see #80 
_it's more than just a very low amplitude flicker especially on the SC5Fc.
_
#101 
_Here is a photo, thanks to maukka, that overlays a theoretical PWM square wave over the Zebralight SC5fc pulsed power management system_



#74 
_Here is a photo of Low1 on an SC52 (photo from Samsung Galaxy S7)_





#59
_Constant-current regulators... use feedback-monitoring circuitry to enhance efficiency, and incorporate current balancing protection, sometimes manifesting as *pulsing that can resemble PWM*.
_
#61
_Zebralight et.al. can rightfully claim not to use PWM (pulse wave modulation), but they still use PWM (pulse whatever modulation)_


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## gunga (May 19, 2017)

Does anyone have a zebralight h600fc 3 to compare? That is a 4000K easy white and I love it.


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## DavidD (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Hmm very strange, my beacons are about 5 seconds apart but my battery flash is around 15 seconds apart. For some reason it sounds like it might be thinking your battery is low even though it's not. Only other advice I have would be to try a few different batteries to see if it exhibits the same behavior still.


I tried several eneloops, all fully charged. They all exhibited the 15 second beacon when off. They all indicated 4 flashes when using the battery test function. I then tried an Energizer lithium (1.8V), it had the same 15 second beacon when off. It also indicated 4 flashes when using the battery test function. The only way I can get it to stop is to slightly unscrew the tailcap. Otherwise the light appears to function as it should. Annoying. Defective? I guess I'll email or call Zebralight tomorrow.


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## jon_slider (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Which one of these is the Nichia, and which one is the SC5 Mk2?



can you tell me which LEDs are in your photos, including their CCTs



gunga said:


> Does anyone have a zebralight h600fc 3 to compare? That is a 4000K easy white and I love it.



yes, 
it is one of these, I will send you the answer key privately after you tell me which one looks best to you


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## TCY (May 19, 2017)

Mark, Could it be that the LED on your SC5c has a tint that is on the edge of the 2-step Macadam ellipse? We only get rid off of tint lottery completely if it's one-step but it seems like 2-step is the best Cree can offer. Colour accuracy wise my M43 might still be the best (not by a whole lot though), but for outdoor use I would pick my SC600Fd Plus and H53Fc over the M43. The two Cree based light just produce light that is more natural to the eye, while the M43 is more of a "laboratory white", if you know what I mean.

I got to take the H53Fc with me last night and it was exactly what snowlover says, the "c" version excels with woods, leaves and greenery. Unfortunately my phone was out of juice so no photos here.


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## TCY (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> More beamshots. Nichia on the left here, MK2 on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Left Nichia, middle is one of the "w" variants and right is the SC5c:thumbsup:


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

DavidD said:


> I tried several eneloops, all fully charged. They all exhibited the 15 second beacon when off. They all indicated 4 flashes when using the battery test function. I then tried an Energizer lithium (1.8V), it had the same 15 second beacon when off. It also indicated 4 flashes when using the battery test function. The only way I can get it to stop is to slightly unscrew the tailcap. Otherwise the light appears to function as it should. Annoying. Defective? I guess I'll email or call Zebralight tomorrow.



Definitely sounds defective then, bummer  I would definitely give them a call or email to get it swapped out. 

Jon, in my pic of the three lights there is a Nichia 219B at 4500k I believe, the MK2 and then a SC5w at 4400k (I think it's closer to 5000k in real life though).


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

TCY said:


> Left Nichia, middle is one of the "w" variants and right is the SC5c:thumbsup:



Winner!


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## markr6 (May 19, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> More beamshots. Nichia on the left here, MK2 on the right.



Wow, that's pretty much what I'm seeing. I just can't handle that yellow. Hi CRI or not, the color temperature and tint is the first thing I see.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2017)

markr6 said:


> Wow, that's pretty much what I'm seeing. I just can't handle that yellow. Hi CRI or not, the color temperature and tint is the first thing I see.



Yeah it's not an ugly yellow though, it's a very pleasing color and the more I use it the more I like it. I've had some ugly yellow and green lights before, one of my old SC5w lights is actually that way, but this is very similar to the Nichia but warmer. I think that's really the main difference here as far as I can tell and I like it a lot. In real life use, especially outdoors, I'm getting excellent results and the light reminds me of afternoon sunshine. That's the best way to describe it. The nichia is more like mid-day sun.


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## gunga (May 19, 2017)

Yep. The easy white in the h600fc is golden. I love it. Very cozy and pleasant.


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## gunga (May 19, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> can you tell me which LEDs are in your photos, including their CCTs
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Jon. 

I'm looking for a comparison of the easy white xml2 from the h600fc 3 vs the new easy white from the sc5c. I don't think your slides have that comparison.


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## jon_slider (May 20, 2017)

gunga said:


> Does anyone have a zebralight h600fc 3 to compare? That is a 4000K easy white and I love it.


the slide has the new 4000k XP-L2



gunga said:


> I'm looking for a comparison of the easy white xml2 from the h600fc 3 vs the new easy white from the sc5c.



got it
only one easy white in the lineup, maybe you can use the info I sent to get a better idea what the other two are and if that helps

but I think it will be up to you to post the h600fc 4000k 85CRI easywhite, along with your new SC5c 4000k 93CRI easywhite 
my guess is your lower CRI model is yellower, and less green


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## gunga (May 20, 2017)

Hey. What happened to the free shipping option to Canada?


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## Ozythemandias (May 20, 2017)

gunga said:


> Hey. What happened to the free shipping option to Canada?



Interesting. I wonder if it's due to all the issues they've been having shipping from China.


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## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

A little playing around. Trying to give this SC5c a chance but it's obvious I can't. Sorry about the different beam diameters and varying shadows.


Hyperikon A19 4000K bulb (90+ CRI)
Control






SC600w HI - Cree XHP35 4500K (80 CRI)
A little yellowish on the white wall, but pretty typical NW. Pretty darn good for what it is/not being high CRI. Colors look pretty good. Red seat is orange-ish = wrong.







SC5c 4000K (93-95 CRI)
Dingy whites. I can't tell any CRI improvement compared to the SC600w HI above (80 CRI). Again, red seat has some orange-ish = wrong.







MD2/M61 dropin with 4000K Nichia 219B (93 CRI)
Note the classic Nichia pinkish tint on the white wall. Quite pleasing in person, but some don't like it. Colors look perfect otherwise. Actually, the pinkish is somewhat visible in the control. Again, if you don't like the control, I can't convince you it's a terrific bulb (it really is!!)







L10 4500K Nichia 219B (92CRI)
Similar to Nichia above, but no tint whatsoever. Accurate, rich color representation. I'm not sure if the photo shows it, but this one is basically impossible to argue with. It's simply a colorless, tintless, high CRI light.


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## snowlover91 (May 20, 2017)

Thanks for sharing those pics Mark, some interesting photos. I'm looking at them on an iPad Pro but here is what I see on the pics. 

The 4000k Nichia makes the whites look "pink" and the orange seat looks a bit red from the pink tint. 
The 4500k Nichia looks great! 
The SC600 HI and SC5c look pretty similar. The white on that little buggy looks the same to me and the wall on both looks more natural than the "pink" wall in the 4000k Nichia. I would say overall, based on the pics alone, the 4500k nichia is top with the SC600 HI and SC5c being pretty close to each other with the SC5c a bit warmer.


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## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

Yeah, I'm looking forward to the 4500K SC5w II. Just back into that lotto thing. Could be green, yellow, or perfect. Fingers crossed! I scored a perfectly white SC5w OP, but sold it since I didn't like the form. I hope I get that lucky again.


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## snowlover91 (May 20, 2017)

markr6 said:


> Yeah, I'm looking forward to the 4500K SC5w II. Just back into that lotto thing. Could be green, yellow, or perfect. Fingers crossed! I scored a perfectly white SC5w OP, but sold it since I didn't like the form. I hope I get that lucky again.



Good luck with it! I'm probably going to sell my SC5w or give it away since it's no longer going to be used  The form factor on the SC5 MK2 is definitely much better, and the knurling feels a bit better too.


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## gunga (May 20, 2017)

It feels that much better?


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## snowlover91 (May 20, 2017)

gunga said:


> It feels that much better?



The weight is noticeably reduced, knurling is better, pocket clip works better (after bending it to loosen it some), tube diameter is slimmer and the high cri/warm tint is much better than the emitter in my SC5w. I doubt I'll use my old SC5w again so might as well sell or give it away.


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## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Good luck with it! I'm probably going to sell my SC5w or give it away since it's no longer going to be used  The form factor on the SC5 MK2 is definitely much better, and the knurling feels a bit better too.



I agree. Slight, but huge change in your hand.






Just to be clear, the SC5w II is the same form as the SC5c we're all talking about (they reuse photos on the website). I also sold my SC5w *MK* *I* since it was just a big fat weight.


----------



## gunga (May 20, 2017)

Hey great feedback guys. I'm definitely getting one. A bit annoying about the lack of free shipping but maybe I'll get it sooner. It's on backorder though.


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## jon_slider (May 20, 2017)

The SC5 Mk2 weighs 18% less than the Mk1

thanks for all the pics... one of these is EasyWhite, who wants to guess






disclaimer, our brain will adapt to any single light source and auto white balance to it
these sorts of comparisons are interesting to me, but, any of these lights will do a good job if it does not have to compete with other ambient light

speaking of ambient light, my color temperature preference depends on the ambient light I am accustomed to at the time

if a location has 4000k ambient light, and I then use a 4000k LED light, it will not seem yellow
if a space is lit by a 5000k source, and I use the same 4000k LED light, it Will seem yellow
If I wake up in the dark of night, a 3000k LED will not seem yellow, but if I turn that light on in the middle of the day, it will be terribly yellow

don't let tint comparisons prevent you from enjoying a 4000k LED, just because we compared it to a 5000k and it looks more yellow
the brain adapts, especially when there is only one light source


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## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> disclaimer, our brain will adapt to any single light source and auto white balance to it
> these sorts of comparisons are interesting to me, but, any of these lights will do a good job if it does not have to compete with other ambient light
> 
> speaking of ambient light, my color temperature preference depends on the ambient light I am accustomed to at the time
> ...



Good point! In fact, I used 4000K WB since my bulbs were 4000K. But I don't think that matters since the overhead lights were turned off during shooting. I like shooting in the dark for that reason.

I know my brain doesn't adapt. After getting a new light, the minute I put a battery in and hit that switch, I either get really excited to totally ticked off losing the lotto again. It's immediately clear, every time. This nasty yellow doesn't need to be compared, but of course I did it because it really drives the point home.

People can make fun of white wall hunting all they want, but I don't care. It's the quickest and easiest way to find beam artifacts, beam type, and overall tint. I don't need to compare; if white paint shows up white, good. If not, what is it? Too green, yellow, magenta?

Focusing on just that part:


----------



## wolfgaze (May 20, 2017)

markr6 said:


> Yeah, I'm looking forward to the *4500K SC5w II*.



Mark, what's the story with that light you referenced? I don't know anything about it... Thanks


----------



## snowlover91 (May 20, 2017)

Mark, I think you either got a bad sample or just don't like this 4000k tint versus the pink of the Nichia. In my sample, each time I turn it it's a nice, pleasing tint. The best way to describe it is afternoon sunlight, that's exactly what it's like for me. After using it for awhile now it's definitely superior to my previous SC5w lights (2 of them!) and why I plan to get rid of them for this instead. Maybe you'll have better luck with the 4500k version.


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## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

wolfgaze said:


> Mark, what's the story with that light you referenced? I don't know anything about it... Thanks



It showed up for sale before going on their spreadsheet, I think. Too hard to keep track sometimes!

http://www.zebralight.com/SC5w-Mk-II-AA-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_193.html


----------



## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Mark, I think you either got a bad sample or just don't like this 4000k tint versus the pink of the Nichia. In my sample, each time I turn it it's a nice, pleasing tint. The best way to describe it is afternoon sunlight, that's exactly what it's like for me. After using it for awhile now it's definitely superior to my previous SC5w lights (2 of them!) and why I plan to get rid of them for this instead. Maybe you'll have better luck with the 4500k version.



It's possible. But if you look at my cropped pic, I just don't see the pink (very little if any). Tintless, pure white on the 4500K Nichia. Totally superior. I like a nice afternoon sun for photography, but not to shine on everything all the time.






I hoped the CRI would overshine the warm 4000K like it did on my MD2, but clearly it did not. No CRI benefit + yellowish, so it's outta here.


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## snowlover91 (May 20, 2017)

markr6 said:


> It's possible. But if you look at my cropped pic, I just don't see the pink (very little if any). Tintless, pure white on the 4500K Nichia. Totally superior. I like a nice afternoon sun for photography, but not to shine on everything all the time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Its not a totally fair comparison though to contrast a 4500k emitter with a 4000k one. A 4500k emitter will tend to be more white/cool as the "pure white" tint is around the 4500-5000k range with a good emitter. As you go higher you get the blue, ugly washed out 6500k spectrum and lower gives you a much warmer range. In your comparisons of the 4000k Nichia it had a TON of pink to the point the "white" on the toys looked like a light pink instead. The 4500k Nichia is definitely a pure white tint but the 4000k in this MK2 light is a nice golden sunlight color, at least in mine. Makes all my old 4500k emitters look too cool now (except my MK3 HI).


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## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

Yeah I get that, but call it what you will...9904.56K, it's still yellow/golden vs. white. That's what I'm after. I had it in my old SC5w OP, but didn't like the size/weight. I'll try again!


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## snowlover91 (May 20, 2017)

markr6 said:


> Yeah I get that, but call it what you will...9904.56K, it's still yellow/golden vs. white. That's what I'm after. I had it in my old SC5w OP, but didn't like the size/weight. I'll try again!



If they had this LED in a 5000k that would probably be perfect! The biggest thing I've noticed is even with one of my lights that I'd call close to a pure white, my MK3 Plus, it doesn't do as well with reds, browns and greenery as the warmer 4000k tint does. For me that's a huge benefit since most of my use is going to be outdoors and such. Plus, I don't have a single white wall in the house they're all cream colored :twothumbs


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## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

It's always good to err on the side of warm outdoors. Even when I sometimes complain about my H600w being a bit warm, it's always pleasing when running or backpacking. I never considered upgrading to the higher CRI versions because I don't want to gamble on something else.


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## jon_slider (May 20, 2017)

there is no single color temperature that is pure white. Whiteness changes relative to ambient light adaptation. If I have been sitting in 5000k light, and turn them off to take a look at a 4000k light, it will look yellow. But If I have been sitting in 3000k light, and turn them off to take a look at a 4000k light it will look whiteleft 4000k N219b, right 4500k N219b



relative to 4000k, yes, 4500k looks more white (I would say greenish white)



but relative to 6000k, 4500k does not look pure white at all4000k, 4500k, 6000k



same two lights on the left as the upper photo



all photos auto white balance iPhone


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## Nichia! (May 20, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> there is no single color temperature that is pure white. Whiteness changes relative to ambient light adaptation. If I have been sitting in 5000k light, and turn them off to take a look at a 4000k light, it will look yellow. But If I have been sitting in 3000k light, and turn them off to take a look at a 4000k light it will look whiteleft 4000k N219b, right 4500k N219b
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Please stick with the topic! 
No place here for Nichia or AAA Lights! It's about Zebralight!


----------



## markr6 (May 20, 2017)

One more using Jonathan's setup. Sorry about the physical therapy exercise guy showing thru from the back...you're poor when you can't find any plain printer paper in the house! :laughing:

The L10 was only a little more intense in person, but exaggerated here. In real life, the outputs where very close and I would call it a fair comparison. Jon asked that I do this at 5000K, so here it is.






p.s. Something to keep in mind: I'm afraid to know how other monitors affect the outcome. I always knew this, but just got a stark reminder as I stood up and sat back down. At an angle from below, the contrast is super high on my monitor. From high, they all look about the same (white). From center, it looks life-like (slight pink...yellow...white). I'm not talking color balanced monitors here, just the way the contrast/saturation seems to change at angles. I have a middle-of-the-road Dell.


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## jon_slider (May 21, 2017)

here btw is the same N219b as the other photos I posted above, and you can clearly see that it looks white, compared to a 3000k LED



markr6 said:


>


thanks, by using 5000k white balance you have helped me see that the L10 is close to that CCT, and therefore looks more white than the warmer SC5c
but there is no denying the 4000k easywhite in the SC5c is more yellow than the 4000k N219b on the left


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## gunga (May 21, 2017)

Quick question. Has anyone tried experimenting with the new ui yet?


----------



## iamlucky13 (May 21, 2017)

mellowman said:


> filtered PWM is something different for different purpose. also you seem to think the PWM controls the current, however PWM is the OUTPUT of the current-mode control circuit.



No, I'm talking about something a little more complex. PWM adjusted based on feedback upstream of a filtering capacitor can be used to control current.


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## wolfgaze (May 21, 2017)

markr6 said:


> It showed up for sale before going on their spreadsheet, I think. Too hard to keep track sometimes!
> 
> http://www.zebralight.com/SC5w-Mk-II-AA-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_193.html



Oh whoops, I mistakenly assumed this was going to be another Hi CRI model when I read your post earlier... Thanks for the link...

I sold my SC5w and had the SC5w Mk2 on my radar - but at this moment I'm not exactly feeling compelled to get the MK2... I may just spring for a new Spyderco instead (have to also sell another knife of mine though)...


----------



## snowlover91 (May 21, 2017)

wolfgaze said:


> Oh whoops, I mistakenly assumed this was going to be another Hi CRI model when I read your post earlier... Thanks for the link...
> 
> I sold my SC5w and had the SC5w Mk2 on my radar - but at this moment I'm not exactly feeling compelled to get the MK2... I may just spring for a new Spyderco instead (have to also sell another knife of mine though)...



Well it has pretty good cri, 83-85 and the 3 step so tint should be pretty good but a little bit of a lottery.


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## snowlover91 (May 21, 2017)

gunga said:


> Quick question. Has anyone tried experimenting with the new ui yet?



I haven't tried the new UI yet but plan to tonight when it gets dark, in about an hour


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## snowlover91 (May 21, 2017)

Alright so I had a chance to try the new UI. I have to say I'm impressed and it works exactly as described. I set mine up with 1 click being 2.8 lumens, .28. The press/hold I used 79 and 18 lumens. A double quick gives me 352 and 144 lumens. This way a single click always gives me low, I can press and hold to cycle to Medium then high. A double click from off gives me high (my least used mode) and I have quick access to the two most used modes, low and high. Here are a few observations: 

1. With medium as my press/hold, the light always briefly starts at the L1 setting and bumps up quickly to the medium setting. This can be a bit confusing at first but I adjusted to it fairly quickly. 

2. When entering the programming mode you have to be sure that the H2, M2 or L2 level is selected before trying to program it. Here's an example since it's pretty hard to describe. I was trying to set the H2 level to a L2 level instead but when I tried to enter the programming mode it kept trying to set my H1 level instead of H2. What I found out is that you have to turn the light on and select the H2 mode first, then the light off, then back on and your light will be on H2 now and can be programmed. It seems like the mode configuration is based on whatever mode that level was last turned off at. If L1/M1/H1 then it will only program those respective modes. I hope this makes sense, it's a little hard to explain. 

3. The easiest way for me to tell what lumen mode I was in is to go all the way up (or down works too) to the highest level and then keep triple clicking while looking at ZL's lumen scale to tell which brightness level I'm on. 

Those are just a few main observations I came across with the UI, I love that I now have the G5 mode and then can customize G6 and G7 to whatever mode order/brightness level I want and then quickly access any of the three groups with 5, 6 or 7 clicks from off. It's now like having a brand new light and once they update their other models with this I plan to upgrade my other lights also.


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## marinemaster (May 21, 2017)

Which Spyderco ?


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## wolfgaze (May 21, 2017)

marinemaster said:


> Which Spyderco ?



Para 3, the all black variant with the DLC blade coating... It's not shipping yet but listed on the KnifeCenter website for pre-order... The knife I plan on selling is my Native 5 (G10 version)


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## marinemaster (May 22, 2017)

Wow these went up in price I remember when Walmart used to carry them it was like $30 or $40 I think. Nice knife.


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## snowlover91 (May 22, 2017)

Why are we talking about knives in a Zebralight thread?


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## wolfgaze (May 22, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Why are we talking about knives in a Zebralight thread?



Because two of us got sidetracked.... Carry on....


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## marinemaster (May 22, 2017)

Knives and flashlights go hand in hand ✌️


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## markr6 (May 23, 2017)

But let me tell you about the snowblower I picked up at a garage sale for $18...

Just kidding! My SC5c is on it's way back. Waiting on the SC5wII to get in stock and ship...another painful wait ahead!


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## snowlover91 (May 23, 2017)

Lol there wasn't any prior context I saw about knives so when I opened the thread I thought I was in the wrong one several times. I'd rather an off topic like knives versus some of the other topics that take threads off track. 

Mark, did you ever experiment with the UI on yours? Let us know when your MK2 ships, maybe we need a separate thread for that one?

btw with the way I have my light set up now there is no annoying pre-flash when I double click! Setting the single click as low and high as double click works great and eliminates the pre-flash issue!


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## stickx (May 23, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> btw with the way I have my light set up now there is no annoying pre-flash when I double click! Setting the single click as low and high as double click works great and eliminates the pre-flash issue!


Thanks for the suggestion. That pre-flash on the default UI is very annoying. Just received mine and I haven't had time to play with the UI yet. Maybe tonight or tomorrow.


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## markr6 (May 23, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Mark, did you ever experiment with the UI on yours? Let us know when your MK2 ships, maybe we need a separate thread for that one?



No I didn't bother with it. Since I was returning it I only wanted to use it for a minute or two; feeling less guilty I guess.


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## snowlover91 (May 23, 2017)

stickx said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. That pre-flash on the default UI is very annoying. Just received mine and I haven't had time to play with the UI yet. Maybe tonight or tomorrow.



The pre-flash is still there if you leave the high mode as a single click, but if you change low to the single click it's not. I love finally being able to customize this light and choose the UI and levels I want, ZL actually listened to our feedback. Now if only they'll do some Nichia lights...


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## markr6 (May 23, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Now if only they'll do some Nichia lights...



I'd give them $200 right now for an SC63n! Or better yet whatever 1x18650 update may be coming (with the new UI).


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## Robe (May 23, 2017)

Nichia!


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## eraursls1984 (May 23, 2017)

I would love a 4000K Nichia 219B. Don't care so much for the 5000K or 219C's.


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## jon_slider (May 23, 2017)

Robe said:


> Nichia!


not gonna happen w N219b.. maybe w N219c but it will not be pink, it will be yellow/green
_I emailed Zebralight asking why they don't use Nichia LEDs. This was the response I recieved. __Nichia LEDs before the current 219C can only be ordered either below the blackbody radiation curve (pinkish, ...) or above the blackbody radiation curve (greenish, ...) Recently, Nichia (finally) can provide LEDs in 3-step MacAdam ellipse, ...if they come out with 2-step LEDs like we have been using since 2015 (in the H600Fc/Fd,...) we may give it a try.

_​#127


Lex Icon said:


> Found some interesting information in charts concerning the manner in which various manufacturers bin their Leds. ... the MacAdam’s ellipse binning system, ... rises above the ANSI BBL as the color temperature being measured increases above 4000K.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





markr6 said:


> I'd give them $200 right now for an SC63n! Or better yet whatever 1x18650 update may be coming (with the new UI).


HDS rotary 18650 will cost you just double your present bid, your choice of pink N219b (below BBL and ideal Imo), or yellow/green N219c (above BBL due to use of MacAdams ellipse)

zebras MacAdams Ellipse LED binning selection process results in choosing LEDs tinted yellow, above the BBL (click pic for link to review):


maukka said:


>



compare to _some_ Nichias, in the Pink, below the BBL
(click pic for link to review):


maukka said:


>


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## Nichia! (May 23, 2017)

+ 1000000000000000 Nichia!!


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## vadimax (May 24, 2017)

markr6 said:


> No I didn't bother with it. Since I was returning it I only wanted to use it for a minute or two; feeling less guilty I guess.



Evil you... I am canceling my order. The another side of a lemon was Zebralight's shipment delay to NKON. This way a parcel would be delivered when I am away on vacation.

Well, next time, perhaps.


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## Swede74 (May 24, 2017)

It is a sour lemon indeed, and I felt as if I had just taken a big bite out of it when I received the news that I will have to wait another two weeks - give or take - for my SC5c to arrive. Apparently Zebralight had told NKON that they had shipped their (original) order, but when NKON placed another order, Zebralight decided to postpone shipment of the first one and will instead send both orders at the same time. 

This is my interpretation of an email sent to me by NKON.nl; I have not communicated directly with Zebralight.


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## vadimax (May 24, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> It is a sour lemon indeed, and I felt as if I had just taken a big bite out of it when I received the news that I will have to wait another two weeks - give or take - for my SC5c to arrive. Apparently Zebralight had told NKON that they had shipped their (original) order, but when NKON placed another order, Zebralight decided to postpone shipment of the first one and will instead send both orders at the same time.
> 
> This is my interpretation of an email sent to me by NKON.nl; I have not communicated directly with Zebralight.



Exactly the same email came to me from NKON.


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## recDNA (May 24, 2017)

Damn I wish they would put that XP-L2 easy white into an sc63. Anybody heard of any plans to do that? I don't like AA.


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## scs (May 24, 2017)

recDNA said:


> Damn I wish they would put that XP-L2 easy white into an sc63. Anybody heard of any plans to do that? I don't like AA.



I hope that's their next logical move: upgrade or introduce a whole hi cri line of lights.


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## eraursls1984 (May 24, 2017)

scs said:


> I hope that's their next logical move: upgrade or introduce a whole hi cri line of lights.


I think the CR123 lights are next, then 18650. I just want them all. The CR123 were recently discontinued, and the 18650 lights were all recently updated. 

I'd love to see a new SC63c MK II, H600c MK IV, SC600c/w HI MK IV, SC3c, SC33c, SC53c, H33c, and H53pr.


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## recDNA (May 26, 2017)

The easy white is much less demanding on the battery too. It's a much better choice.


----------



## 1980s (May 27, 2017)

I received my flashlight earlier this week and noticed the centering of the LED is a little bit off. What do you think? It is a little disappointing.


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## gunga (May 27, 2017)

Seems pretty mild. I think I've seen stuff like that before.


----------



## TCY (May 27, 2017)

If it affects beam pattern or it really annoys you, contact ZL for a replacement. They'll replace/refund for whatever reason if it's within a month, even if you just don't want it anymore.


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## snowlover91 (May 27, 2017)

Doesn't look too bad to me, it's definitely not perfectly centered but not off by much either. If it affects beam pattern or you just don't like it, I would look at returning it or exchanging. How is the tint and UI on yours?


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## jon_slider (May 28, 2017)

1980s said:


> I received my flashlight earlier this week and noticed the centering of the LED is a little bit off. What do you think? It is a little disappointing.



I resemble your disappointment, however it is not abnormal nor detrimental, purely cosmetic, it is quite common

try not to let it bother you
Build new and happy memories. Bond with your light, take it into the dark with you, build fond memories of things you have done with your light.

here is another example, different brand, chosen at random online.. looks similarly low on the left, and that may be partly due to camera angle


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## vadimax (May 28, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> I resemble your disappointment, however it is not abnormal nor detrimental, purely cosmetic, it is quite common
> 
> try not to let it bother you
> Build new and happy memories. Bond with your light, take it into the dark with you, build fond memories of things you have done with your light.
> ...



Funny people. Manker E02 is $19.95, Zebralight SC5c is $69. Same quality issues. What does it say?

Zebralight, if you read this: you either drop your price tag or your QC should be forbidden to work with a hangover...


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## Lumencrazy (May 28, 2017)

1980s said:


> I received my flashlight earlier this week and noticed the centering of the LED is a little bit off. What do you think? It is a little disappointing.
> 
> With todays manufacturing techniques this is completely unacceptable.


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## Lumencrazy (May 28, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Doesn't look too bad to me, it's definitely not perfectly centered but not off by much either. If it affects beam pattern or you just don't like it, I would look at returning it or exchanging. How is the tint and UI on yours?



What does off by much mean? Anything measurable?


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## snowlover91 (May 28, 2017)

vadimax said:


> Funny people. Manker E02 is $19.95, Zebralight SC5c is $69. Same quality issues. What does it say?
> 
> Zebralight, if you read this: you either drop your price tag or your QC should be forbidden to work with a hangover...



I've had other much more expensive brands exhibit off center LEDs. No company can have perfect QC on every single light. This is one example out of hundreds, or thousands, without any issue. There is a big difference between one light having a minor issue and dozens coming out with this issue. Even big companies like Apple, Samsung, etc have QC issues and the key is how they take care of their customer if it happens. The light can be returned to ZL no questions asked within 30 days for a full refund. 

Lumencrazy, the LED is barely off center and I have to zoom in 200% or more to tell that it is. It's a very minuscule amount and I've seen it from every company, even have seen HDS and Malkoff exhibit this issue before too.


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## jon_slider (May 28, 2017)

vadimax said:


> What does it say?


Both are inexpensive lights Made In China? .. LOL


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## 1980s (May 28, 2017)

Here is another shot of it with the LED off. The beam color is a bit on yellow side, but I think it is OK.

If I ask to exchange it, how long do you think it will take to get a new one? They seem to be back-ordered now.


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## vadimax (May 28, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> Both are inexpensive lights Made In China? .. LOL



Yes, they are both made in China I guess  But Chinese have 14 quality levels where the 14th​ is absolute perfection. I think Zebralight has too many orders and just relaxed on QC to make them all done. The only moment they did not take into account that some of those lights will end up in the hands of CPF members whose quality requirements are way above an ordinary user.


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## Nichia! (May 28, 2017)

14 quality levels?? Is that true????


----------



## iamlucky13 (May 28, 2017)

1980s said:


> Here is another shot of it with the LED off. The beam color is a bit on yellow side, but I think it is OK.
> 
> If I ask to exchange it, how long do you think it will take to get a new one? They seem to be back-ordered now.



I think you should assume it would take several weeks, at a minimum, especially considering the back order.

The off-center LED would affect the beam shape, not the color. Since it doesn't seem like the beam shape is off enough that you've noticed it so far, it doesn't sound worth exchanging to me, but it's your call.



vadimax said:


> Funny people. Manker E02 is $19.95, Zebralight SC5c is $69. Same quality issues. What does it say?



What quality issue? What is Zebralight's spec for LED tolerance relative to reflector centerline? Is it within that spec? If so, it's not a quality issue. If it is within spec, but still results in a bad beam, it would be a design issue, but I didn't see complaints about the beam shape.

Making some measurements from the image, it looks to me right around .010" from center, which is a pretty tight tolerance (about the same as the thickness of 5 sheets of printer paper)

Was this noticed because the beam was misshapen and 1980's discovered this trying to figure out why, or because as flashlight enthusiasts, we tend to notice and obsess over minute details?


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## jon_slider (May 28, 2017)

1980s said:


> The beam color is a bit on yellow side, but I think it is OK.


It is normal for a 4000k light to seem yellowish if you look at it when your brain is adapted to daylight

Try looking at the beam after sitting under 3000k incandescent light for an hour first. Then you will see that 4000k looks very white by comparison.Ambient light color temperatures, and our brain's white balance adaptation, vary over the course of a 24hour day, so a light that is too yellow at noon, might be too blue at midnight

A 4000k light is best suited for use after dark, and indoors with warm white ambient light

It will seem “too” yellow if you try to use it to work on your car, in the sun, where you would find a 6000k light more “white”, relatively speaking.

Its all about white balance
The 4000k is an excellent color temperature to learn to appreciate. notice how many people in this thread 
Has Your "Taste" In Lights Changed With Time
mention migrating towards 4000k CCT from initially starting out on Cool White

You made a very good choice Imo. Learn to love all the awesome brightness options you have, learn how much more information the High CRI offers you. Notice what a pleasant and relaxing ambiance your Neutral White light has. 

Enjoy your new light, don’t sweat the petty things, move past buyers remorse items, and use the crap out of your light. Its yours, you paid for it, its awesome, and its going to last a long time.


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## snowlover91 (May 29, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> It is normal for a 4000k light to seem yellowish if you look at it when your brain is adapted to daylight
> 
> Try looking at the beam after sitting under 3000k incandescent light for an hour first. Then you will see that 4000k looks very white by comparison.Ambient light color temperatures, and our brain's white balance adaptation, vary over the course of a 24hour day, so a light that is too yellow at noon, might be too blue at midnight
> 
> ...



Well said, and I have noticed this actually. I did a test a few nights ago where I took an old 6500k Nitecore, a 4500K ZL SC5w (closer to 5000k in reality) and then my MK2 at 4000k. The 6500k light I turned on first and it was incredibly blue. I then turned on the 4500k Zebralight and it was a nice warm neutral by comparison. Next I turned the 6500k off and just stared at the 4500k a few seconds, then turned on the 4000k light. Now, my 4500k light looked like a cool white and the 4000k had the nice warm tint. It's amazing how one's perception can be influenced so easily and I find that 4000k is the sweet spot for me now.


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## Mattz68 (May 29, 2017)

I totally agree you...especially outdoors, 4000k is the "sweet spot":thumbsup:


snowlover91 said:


> Well said, and I have noticed this actually. I did a test a few nights ago where I took an old 6500k Nitecore, a 4500K ZL SC5w (closer to 5000k in reality) and then my MK2 at 4000k. The 6500k light I turned on first and it was incredibly blue. I then turned on the 4500k Zebralight and it was a nice warm neutral by comparison. Next I turned the 6500k off and just stared at the 4500k a few seconds, then turned on the 4000k light. Now, my 4500k light looked like a cool white and the 4000k had the nice warm tint. It's amazing how one's perception can be influenced so easily and I find that 4000k is the sweet spot for me now.


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## Desdinova (May 30, 2017)

I was sold on one of these as an upgrade to my much beloved SC52w, but now I'm unsure. CRI or white?


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## snowlover91 (May 30, 2017)

Desdinova said:


> I was sold on one of these as an upgrade to my much beloved SC52w, but now I'm unsure. CRI or white?



It really all depends. This is a very warm light at 4000k so if you like cooler or neutral tints you won't like this one. This is similar to afternoon sunshine, a nice warm tint but some don't like it while others like myself do. Personally I find it superior to even my 4500k Zebralights and does a better job outdoors.


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## recDNA (May 30, 2017)

I like 4500 - 5500 and 4500 would only be for use indoors or outdoors in the dark. If there is any ambient light present I like 5000-5500 but I don't like any flashlight witha dominant shade like green or yellow. If I can see the green without comparing to another light I don't like it.

That's what kept me away from the H50. I read green tint reports.


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## jon_slider (May 30, 2017)

recDNA said:


> I don't like any flashlight witha dominant shade like green or yellow.



does the color of the SC5c w XP-L2, when white balance is set to 5000k, look like a "tint" you can live with?


markr6 said:


>


keep in mind that if ambient light is 3000k, the 4000k will look white, here is a example:
4000k on left, 3000k on right






otoh if you try to use a 4000k light when your brain is adapted to cooler light, such as 5000k, then 4000k will look "warmer" or more "yellow".

Tint is totally relative to white balance. Pure white is simply a Color Temperature that matches the white balance of the brain viewing it. In fact, if the LED is up to 1000k Cooler than the ambient white balance of the viewer, they will think it is Bright White

If you go outside in the sun, and turn on a 4000k light, it will look like a weak, pathetic, Warm Yellow
otoh, if you wake up in the dark of night and turn on a 4000k light, it will look obnoxiously glaring and Cool Blue

Chose your light Color Temperature based on the Color Temperature of the environment your brain is adapted to, just before you turn on the light.

Lumen levels also play a role.
Someone that needs to use 20 lumens or less is most likely in a place with little or no other ambient light, and in that case they will prefer 4000k or less. OTOH, if someone is neeeding more than 200 lumens, odds are good that they are competing with bright, and cooler, ambient light, and in that case they will prefer 5000k+ over 4000k-

Tint is not the same as Color Temperature, though we often use the term Tint indiscriminately. Green Tint IS Tint, it is NOT Color temperature. Tint refers to variance above or below the ideal BBL. There can be green tint at warm 4000k, or also green tint at Cool 6000k. Either one could look "pure white" given a matching environment. Neutral White is not the same as Neutral Tint, although the two terms are often misused interchangeably. 

Tint is not Color Temperature, but we use the term Neutral for both factors. Neutral tint to some means 5000k Color Temperature, but technically Neutral tint means the color lands on the BBL, not above, which is the realm of yellow green tint, not below, which is the real of pink/magenta tint. Generally human subjects given a choice between a tint that falls above the BBL or below the BBL, will prefer the tint below the BBL. That is why some Nichias are sometimes Pink. The bin selection for the N219b tends to select LEDs whose tint fall below or up to the BBL. OTOH, the LED selection criteria, McAdams Ellipse, used for Cree and also for N219c, selects for LEDs whose tints do NOT fall below the BBL. That means N219c and Cree LEDs will tend to be yellow/green, within the selection range. That is why the 4000k XPL2 in the SC5c looks both Warm(er), and also Yellower than 5000k LEDs

you can see that warm and yellow are also confusing, since one is a reference to color temperature and the other is a reference to Tint

try to unravel this sentence, intentionally combining the terms for Color Temperature and Tint.
"I want a Pure White Light with Neutral Tint"
does that mean they want a 4000k N219b with no green tint?
or does it mean they want a 5000k XP-L2 with no pink tint?

now what if there is no perfect LED that lands exactly on the BBL every time
do you want an LED whose selection criteria allow any LED that falls on the BBL or Above (within a small range)
or do you want an LED whose selection criteria allows any LED that falls on the BBL or Below (also by a small amount)

your tint preference for no green will be best served by choosing N219b
if your tint preference is for no pink, you will be best served by choosing N219c, or a Cree LED (they WILL tend to be greener)

look at maukkas plot of the SC5fc, note the red XXXs land above the BBL





now look at his plot of an N219b, note the XXX do NOT fall Above the BBL





I know I already posted this on Page 9, but, it bears repeating, until people start to understand the difference between Tint and Color Temperature better.


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## gunga (May 30, 2017)

Well. I just got my sc5c II. I'm impressed by how minor changes make it feel quite a bit smaller. That's a welcome change. 

The fit and finish seems good. The LED is a touch off like 1980. I don't notice any effect on the beam. The tint, I'm unsure. Tends to yellow with a hint of green. Not pinkish like my grail easy white xml2 in my h600fc III. 

It provides some reach vs the headlamp though and the headlamp has a frosted lens to mix the colours. 

I'm trying to decide on whether or not to keep it. The h53c i got has the same tint. When I add DC fix to blend the beam it's more pleasant. That one had a couple small scuffs, partially due to the clip being pre installed. 

When using the head lamp I found the blended beam pleasant. 

I need to do more evaluation at night. Somewhat disappointed by this tint.


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## TCY (May 30, 2017)

gunga said:


> Well. I just got my sc5c II. I'm impressed by how minor changes make it feel quite a bit smaller. That's a welcome change.
> 
> The fit and finish seems good. The LED is a touch off like 1980. I don't notice any effect on the beam. The tint, I'm unsure. Tends to yellow with a hint of green. Not pinkish like my grail easy white xml2 in my h600fc III.
> 
> ...



So tint on both of your new lights are yellowish with a hint of green? Bad news


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## jon_slider (May 30, 2017)

gunga said:


> Well. I just got my sc5c II.
> ...
> The tint, I'm unsure. Tends to yellow with a hint of green. Not pinkish like my grail easy white xml2 in my h600fc III.



I hope you will post some side by side photos of the beams you are describing

fwiw, this post, with pictures, discusses the use of Lee filters to correct yellow/green tint, using 1/8 minus green


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## eraursls1984 (May 30, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> I hope you will post some side by side photos of the beams you are describing
> 
> fwiw, this post, with pictures, discusses the use of Lee filters to correct yellow/green tint, using 1/8 minus green


The only problem I see with the filters is the loss of Hi-CRI. I love 4000k and I'm okay with some magenta or yellow, but completely opposed to any green, blue, or purple. This makes me wonder if a w would be better with a filter if needed. With the w you have more lumens even after using a filter, and your not losing one of the main aspects, Hi-CRI.


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## jon_slider (May 30, 2017)

eraursls1984 said:


> The only problem I see with the filters is the loss of Hi-CRI.



there is a loss of Hi-CRI? I would like to learn more about that, got link?

from what little I know so far, the filter produces a loss of 13.5% of the lumens. Specifically it cuts out Green Lumens. I don't consider Green the primary component of High CRI. I consider Red the primary component of High CRI, that distinguishes it from Low CRI. Warm adds Yellow, but not red, so Warm is usually still Low CRI.

The filter color looks pale pink to me, it won't afaik, block CRI, just Green...
please help educate me with a link


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## gunga (May 30, 2017)

TCY said:


> So tint on both of your new lights are yellowish with a hint of green? Bad news



Yep. Both. 

I do not intend on trying to filter these lights. They have non-removable bezels and I prefer not to stick it on.


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## recDNA (May 31, 2017)

The picture of the L10 beamshot was nice. I have no idea what an L10 is. The Zebralight tint is unacceptable for me. Others may like it. I prefer pink to yellow-green


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## gunga (May 31, 2017)

2nd Impression is better. I will need to do a mini review to properly encompass what I see.

Note that the LED being slightly off has no noticeable effect on the beam. I don't recommend exchanging it as you might get the same thing.


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## gunga (May 31, 2017)

Okay, let me just post what I see in regards to tint. I'm posting this in both the SC5c II thread and the H53c thread since it's relevant to both. While beam shots are nice, I don't think I can accurately represent what I see and also the beam shots would be subject to many variables (from the camera, white balance, to the monitor etc.).

Here's what I saw/see in both the SC5c II and the H53c.

1st impression. Ugly. White wall hunting during the day. Holding the light close to the wall, I see yellow tint with some green in the corona. Never mind pollution from the available daylight, this looks rather poor. Does not compare well to anything I own (which are all handpicked or modded lights with nice tints and/or high CRI).

2nd impression. Much better, quite nice, likely a keeper. So when actually examining things more closely at night, I see something different. The hotspot itself is quite nice in tint, comparable to a 4000K Nichia 219C (this is generally more yellow/green than a 219B). I do see a Cree tint variation though with hints of yellow/green in the corona and also some in the centre of the hotspot giving it the slight impression of a donut. I think this is why some people noted a donut in the Zebralight SC63 (It uses a quad die Cree XPH35 LED I believe). I believe the XPL2 Easywhite is a quad die LED also, thus leading to the impression of a mild donut (very mild). In any case, I have heard of quite unpleasant tint variation on the newer generation of Cree LEDs (XPL2, XPG3) in reflectored lights. I may be seeing some of that here. Please note, this is what I see when viewing on a white wall, up close. As you move away from the wall, the effect is less pronounced. Also, in use, the hotspot is broad, the tint is quite pleasant, and colours pop quite well. So therein lies the danger of white wall hunting, especially up close. I did some reading with colourful kids books too with my son with the light and found it to be a nice tint/beam in use, even up close.

Now the headlamp came with a clear lens too, because I wanted the option of throw and possible use as an angle light. I put some DC Fix film on to diffuse the beam for general use. This works well and has the added benefit of mixing the colours so that the overall beam is smooth with no nasty tint variation. So if you plan on doing this or getting the flood version (with the frosted lens) you will have a much better experience. Colour rendering is good, tint is pleasantly warm. Again more very mild hints of yellow/green than a Nichia 219B or even a Cree Easywhite XML2 but not objectionable at all.

So, for clear lens, white wall hunters will be unhappy, but in use it's quite nice. Frosted lens (or DC Fix) users will be generally happy. Note, I have read that the Cree tint shift is less pronounced in optics, especially mildly frosted ones, of course.

Other notes: Both lights feel impressively small. I've sold all my AA Zebralights (one in, one out rule) so can't compare them directly but they both feel compact. I'm impressed that the SC5c II feels so nice and compact (still has a big head) since that was the main complaint of the previous version. I have not tried the new UI yet but am eager to see it in action. The anodizing is good though I do have some small/minor scuffs (down to bare metal!) on the headlamp I find irritating. It came that way and I'm inquiring about a replacement. Otherwise, overall fit and finish is quite good. Not outstanding, but very good.

Overall, after my initial horror, I'm generally satisfied and feel much better about these. The efficiency, features, new UI, general reliability, high cri and size make these worth keeping.


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## vadimax (May 31, 2017)

LED centering issues... I thought: why Eagtac, Lumintop, Thrunite do not suffer that problem? Inspected lights in my possession and discovered that all of them either use polymer spacer or their reflector is precisely formed to not let the LED to shift anywhere.

Why Zebralight decided to omit this obvious engineering solution?!


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## gunga (May 31, 2017)

I have a thought about that. Most other lights (like the ones you mentioned), use a separate MCPCB that houses just the LED. This lends itself to being centered with the reflector, using a spacer as you noted.

The Zebralight uses and integrated circuit with the LED and driver all on one board. I believe this is also mounted to the body for better heat dispersion. This does not lend itself to being centered using a spacer. A floating reflector could be used but is not likely acceptable due to the tight tolerances of the Zebralights (the bezel etc, is press fit so has no slop). I think any centering is by design only so is much more prone to errors.


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## TCY (May 31, 2017)

Good to know, thanks for sharing

I too, find the 4000K beam from XP-L2 to be pleasant. My H53Fc is a perfect reading light because of the tint. Don't know why ZL would send out lights with damaged anodizing though, QC guy fell asleep?


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## vadimax (May 31, 2017)

By the way, Surefire E1B MaxVision, being priced 3 times more, looks even more pathetic:


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## maukka (May 31, 2017)

eraursls1984 said:


> The only problem I see with the filters is the loss of Hi-CRI. I love 4000k and I'm okay with some magenta or yellow, but completely opposed to any green, blue, or purple. This makes me wonder if a w would be better with a filter if needed. With the w you have more lumens even after using a filter, and your not losing one of the main aspects, Hi-CRI.



Using a minus green filter doesn't destroy CRI, quite the opposite.

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1117960#comment-1117960


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## vadimax (May 31, 2017)

LED centering issue again: I have contacted NKON and they report that ALL SC5c come with LEDs a bit off center... :ironic:


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## eraursls1984 (May 31, 2017)

maukka said:


> Using a minus green filter doesn't destroy CRI, quite the opposite.
> 
> http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1117960#comment-1117960


Interesting. Thanks for all of your work.


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## gunga (May 31, 2017)

vadimax said:


> LED centering issue again: I have contacted NKON and they report that ALL SC5c come with LEDs a bit off center... :ironic:



Not surprising. They were designed that way. It sounds like it needs an adjustment at the factory with someone carefully examining samples to get it fixed.


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## jon_slider (May 31, 2017)

maukka said:


> Using a minus green filter doesn't destroy CRI, quite the opposite.




thanks for the education! Outstanding visual data showing the tint change from Lee filters. The increase in CRI shown in your other linked data, is particularly gratifying.


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## snowlover91 (May 31, 2017)

gunga said:


> Not surprising. They were designed that way. It sounds like it needs an adjustment at the factory with someone carefully examining samples to get it fixed.



With all the discussion on the LED centering it made me check mine to see... no issues on my sample, perfectly centered


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## gunga (May 31, 2017)

Ok. I guess it's still hit and miss. I'm not upset by Centering on mine.


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## vadimax (May 31, 2017)

Another question goes: has anyone managed to disassemble Zebralight's head?


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## Desdinova (May 31, 2017)

I'm more unsure than before. Some like the yellow Tony, some hate it, ad infinitum. Might wait for the white. Buying both isn't an option.


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## Desdinova (May 31, 2017)

Not sure where"Tony" came from. Please disregard.


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## scs (May 31, 2017)

I once was told by a dealer to expect scuffs and missing ano from ZL lights, after returning my own for that reason. I can't reconcile this and your experience with the glowing impression of ZL's ano in the other thread.


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## recDNA (May 31, 2017)

dealers don't want returns


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## scs (May 31, 2017)

recDNA said:


> dealers don't want returns


Yes, but badmouthing products you carry, or maybe just honorably stating the truth wouldn't sell those particular products either. I'm pretty sure ZL themselves don't want to see returns either, but here we are.


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## recDNA (May 31, 2017)

scs said:


> Yes, but badmouthing products you carry, or maybe just honorably stating the truth wouldn't sell those particular products either. I'm pretty sure ZL themselves don't want to see returns either, but here we are.


My only point is I would not accept a Zebralight with scuffed ano nor green tint. I don't care about the centering of the led as long as it doesn't affect the beam.

If the dealer told me that I'd ask him to pick out one that isn't scuffed or return my $ (assuming they have a satisfaction guarantee like most).


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## iamlucky13 (May 31, 2017)

maukka said:


> Using a minus green filter doesn't destroy CRI, quite the opposite.
> 
> http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1117960#comment-1117960



Nice test! I've actually been interested in seeing something like that, including the light loss measurement.

Of course, this method can be taken too far. The over-abundance of part of the green range leaves a lot of room to filter while achieving a better overall approximation of a black body spectrum, but you can see in the chromaticity diagram that at 1/2 minus green, it is wandering away from the black body line again. Much more and I'm sure the loss of green starts to affect the score more than the gain in red (proportionately, not in absolute terms) improves it.

I've seen some high CRI spectra where that same inflection is present around 550 nm, indicating some of the manufacturers are themselves using filtering to reduce green. Based on the slightly pinkish tint, I suspect the Cree 85 CRI three way bulb I have in the floor lamp in my living room does so.



gunga said:


> Not surprising. They were designed that way. It sounds like it needs an adjustment at the factory with someone carefully examining samples to get it fixed.



I've not yet seen a post indicating there is anything actually in need of fixing. What we should be worried about is if the beam has a reasonably even shape (and if anybody starts drawing circles on their white wall to check, they're doing it wrong), not whether we can spot a slight offset from center. As I stated above, although the convenient reference of the reflector circle makes it easy to spot, when I actually measured the offset from one of the shared photos, it was very small, around 0.01 inch. This is around the range where improving tolerances starts to get tough, but it actually relates to several tolerances all stacking up: the LED to MCPCB, the MCPCB to the body, the body to the reflector, and the portion of the reflector that mates to the body relative to the hole the LED shines through. In reality, they're probably controlling each of these to somewhere in the ballpark of +/-0.003 inch. When they build one light, the tolerances may all add up to zero and it's perfectly centered. When they build another, it may be .012", and it's easily visible.

As a mechanical engineer, I deal with these kinds of tolerances regularly, although not in a high production environment where there are some tricks for consistently holding tolerances that aren't practical for my work. Regardless, it's a recurring lesson that demanding tolerances tighter than necessary for proper function (eg, beam shape) unnecessarily increases costs.

I actually just had a conversation this morning with a machine shop manager about some parts I was overzealous with a tolerance on. He got them to within 1/10th the thickness of a human hair to the range I specified, but couldn't hold all of them as requested. Because he takes his reputation seriously, he asked me if that was ok rather than just assuming it is and trying to sneak it through. Fortunately, when I double-checked how it would actually fit the product I'm making, it was ok.


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## gunga (May 31, 2017)

Sorry. To be more accurate if one is trying to get perfect Centering than perhaps things need to be "fixed". There is no functional issue. It's just a minor cosmetic fault. 

I'm not too happy about my cosmetic scuffs so will ship back for exchange after more evaluation.


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## ChibiM (May 31, 2017)

Still a shame though that even a seller tells that all theirs are off-center.


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## twistedraven (May 31, 2017)

Those minus green filters, I imagine they don't stay on top the Zebralight lenses without falling off? Getting one for my HI would be absolutely lovely, but one just can't unscrew the bezel of the Zebralight and sandwich the filter in.


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## snowlover91 (May 31, 2017)

scs said:


> I once was told by a dealer to expect scuffs and missing ano from ZL lights, after returning my own for that reason. I can't reconcile this and your experience with the glowing impression of ZL's ano in the other thread.



My guess is from the factory some of the machinery or other things knocks ano off... possibly in the final assembly stages, and for whatever reason it doesn't get caught. The ano is pretty tough but if it gets damaged at the factory then that would explain why some come that way, fortunately it seems to be an isolated issue with users here.


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## gunga (May 31, 2017)

Note. I don't have scuffs on my sc5c. My h53c has a scuffs on the head edge but it's very small. The bigger irritating one is related to the clip being installed at the factory ( slide on clip). This is not an issue with the sc5c.


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## gunga (Jun 1, 2017)

Can some one do a direct comparison with the previous version with measurements? It feels smaller but it would be nice to have actual data.


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## Swede74 (Jun 2, 2017)

Mine arrived today, after a long wait. I hope I will get a chance to post my initial impressions and maybe some beamshots in a few days. So far, besides playing around a bit and trying to get the hang of the new UI, I have swapped the black clip for the shiny one on (from?) my SC52.


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## Swede74 (Jun 2, 2017)

I am back already with an early observation: If you try to force the light back into turbo by switching to a lower mode then back to turbo, after the 3-min step-down, the light will go into turbo but revert to 325 lm almost immediately (<1s). I like that, because safety features that are easily disabled are not very good safety features. I also do not like it, because I am more of a Android person than an Apple person.


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## scs (Jun 2, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> I am back already with an early observation: If you try to force the light back into turbo by switching to a lower mode then back to turbo, after the 3-min step-down, the light will go into turbo but revert to 325 lm almost immediately (<1s). I like that, because safety features that are easily disabled are not very good safety features. I also do not like it, because I am more of a Android person than an Apple person.



Is this an actual feature programmed into the driver or the cell simply didn't have enough juice left after the initial 3 mins on turbo to power turbo again?

I wonder how many minutes cumulatively an eneloop and eneloop pro can power the turbo mode.


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## Swede74 (Jun 2, 2017)

scs said:


> Is this an actual feature programmed into the driver or the cell simply didn't have enough juice left after the initial 3 mins on turbo to power turbo again?
> 
> I wonder how many minutes cumulatively an eneloop and eneloop pro can power the turbo mode.



It appears to be a feature. I am using brand new Fujitsu and Fujitsu Pro and and as far as I can tell, they are able to power turbo at least twice. 

Also, if I remove the battery (or unscrew the tailcap) and put it back in, the light will go into turbo for another full three minutes.


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## vadimax (Jun 2, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> It appears to be a feature. I am using brand new Fujitsu and Fujitsu Pro and and as far as I can tell, they are able to power turbo at least twice.
> 
> Also, if I remove the battery (or unscrew the tailcap) and put it back in, the light will go into turbo for another full three minutes.



I wonder if that feature timer or accumulated heat regulated. When you remove battery you either reset the timer or open body cools down rapidly.


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## Swede74 (Jun 2, 2017)

vadimax said:


> I wonder if that feature timer or accumulated heat regulated. When you remove battery you either reset the timer or open body cools down rapidly.


 
I would say it is likely a timer, since I only had to unscrew the tailcap a quarter of a turn to break the current.

I think I have discovered what could be a firmware bug. In mode group G7 (possibly also G6) if I program M1 or M2 to max output, the 3-min step-down is disabled, or non-existent. I let the light run for well over four minutes, at which point it was quite hot to the touch but not alarmingly so. 

If other units have the same bug or feature, depending on whether you are an Apple or an Android person, perhaps it would be a good idea to inform Zebralight?


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## recDNA (Jun 2, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> Mine arrived today, after a long wait. I hope I will get a chance to post my initial impressions and maybe some beamshots in a few days. So far, besides playing around a bit and trying to get the hang of the new UI, I have swapped the black clip for the shiny one on (from?) my SC52.


Yes I prefer shiny also. The dark clip should match the gray ano.


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## snowlover91 (Jun 2, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> I would say it is likely a timer, since I only had to unscrew the tailcap a quarter of a turn to break the current.
> 
> I think I have discovered what could be a firmware bug. In mode group G7 (possibly also G6) if I program M1 or M2 to max output, the 3-min step-down is disabled, or non-existent. I let the light run for well over four minutes, at which point it was quite hot to the touch but not alarmingly so.
> 
> If other units have the same bug or feature, depending on whether you are an Apple or an Android person, perhaps it would be a good idea to inform Zebralight?



Interesting, I haven't tried that yet. Maybe since G6 and 7 are fully programmable they did that since they figured the people using those modes would prefer to have that option? Or it could be a bug, I wonder if the light would get too hot or sort of balance out as the battery rapidly drains and the light gets forced into a lower setting.


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## gunga (Jun 3, 2017)

Well. I found another bug in the new firmware that effectively ruins it for me. 

This affects both the sc5c II and the h53c. 

I've programmed g7 on both (have not tried g6 but it should be the same). 

I've reverse mapped the levels so that L1, L2 (long press) are high and H1, H2 (quick press) are low. I kept medium the same. 

This, in theory, should allow me to do a quick press to get low levels (and not kill my night vision) and do a long press for high. 

Holding the button starts on high and scrolls down to low. 

Two quick presses should allow me to get to medium with no preflash. Well. It doesn't. When I do two quick presses, I get low, a brief preflash to high, before settling in to medium. So in theory I could have 0.08 lumens, a brief 475 lumen flash before settling into 7 lumens. 

This is garbage. 

Now I need to decide if the new firmware is the deciding factor in keeping or returning the light. I have enough lights. Maybe I need to wait for the next run or next models to fix the firmware bugs.


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## gunga (Jun 3, 2017)

Oh well. 

Might be worth keeping but still use the old firmware. The one advantage is that you can program every level. I'm finding m1 too bright. I'll just reprogram it to a lower level. 

Too bad. Might be annoying if and when future versions are fixed.


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## TCY (Jun 3, 2017)

The reason of a brief flash is because technically, there is a very brief press & hold in between your double press. Try get to M1 on the original UI, you'll notice the following pattern: high-a brief flash of low-medium. ZL UI has instantaneous response on buttons, meaning that if you are doing single clicks for H1, the light remains at L1 as long as the button is not released, no matter how brief this period is. It becomes more apparent if the in-between hold is longer. Not really a firmware bug, more of a physical restraint of having only one button.


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## gunga (Jun 3, 2017)

Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately this still negates one of the main advantages of the new firmware. Sigh.


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## TCY (Jun 3, 2017)

A less than perfect solution: program one of the L slots into a low instead of high, so when you double click the light pass through the low instead. You'll need to figure out a way to stuff the left behind high mode somewhere though.


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## Antal gábor (Jun 3, 2017)

Canceled


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## Antal gábor (Jun 3, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> I would say it is likely a timer, since I only had to unscrew the tailcap a quarter of a turn to break the current.
> 
> I think I have discovered what could be a firmware bug. In mode group G7 (possibly also G6) if I program M1 or M2 to max output, the 3-min step-down is disabled, or non-existent. I let the light run for well over four minutes, at which point it was quite hot to the touch but not alarmingly so.
> 
> If other units have the same bug or feature, depending on whether you are an Apple or an Android person, perhaps it would be a good idea to inform Zebralight?



I think this is not a BUG! The Zebralight website is reported to be 475 lumens (0.5 hours). The first generation sc5w is 500 lumens (0.8 hours) ...But only Zebralight can tell it!


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## snowlover91 (Jun 3, 2017)

gunga said:


> Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately this still negates one of the main advantages of the new firmware. Sigh.



Here is how I set mine up, you may want to try it as it works great for me. 

Single click - I programmed my low settings of choice here, a 3 lumen and around .28 lumen setting. 
Double click - This is my high mode, when I double click from off you don't get a weird preflash you can see since the single click is low. Works out great. 
Press/hold - This is my medium setting, I put my most used level here which is 79 lumens. If I need more light I just hold a bit longer and get the high. The only thing you'll notice with the press/hold setup like this is it'll very briefly start at the L1 level and then kick up to your medium setting. 

The reason this setup works so well is I have instant click to low, if I need more than that I just press/hold and it cycles to M then H. From off if I need medium it's quickly accessible with the press and hold and if I want high from off it will just take two quick clicks. This seems to be the best setup for how I use my light, since I use the 79 lumen and moonlight modes the most. Maybe try setting this on your G6 or G7 and see how you like it? Hope this helps


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## gunga (Jun 3, 2017)

Good suggestion. Thanks!


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## snowlover91 (Jun 3, 2017)

gunga said:


> Good suggestion. Thanks!



No problem, let me know how it works out for you.


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## Swede74 (Jun 5, 2017)

Tint comparison: Daylight, Zebralight SC5c II, H32w, SC600w II, SC52 cool white. 

Camera settings: ISO 100, white balance = daylight


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## markr6 (Jun 5, 2017)

If that SC5c was just a little cooler (4500K) I think it would be spot on with that sunlight (personally, I would like it a lot!)


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## marinemaster (Jun 5, 2017)

Oh man that SC52 CW tint is horrible [emoji13]


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## scs (Jun 5, 2017)

I've been using my 219C 4000K hi cri and XPL HI 4000k regularly, and noticed that the tint on the Cree is a lot more visible.
It seems true in the pics above as well, the SC5C MK2 adding a color cast to the carpet and the bowl.
Is the presence of the tint the price to pay for high output and high cri from Cree, at least for now?
Awaiting the days of neutral high output, high cri...


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## Lumencrazy (Jun 5, 2017)

I assume that all of the pictures were taken in raw format and I am sure everyone is looking through a color corrected calibrated monitor.


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## twistedraven (Jun 5, 2017)

You don't need a color calibrated monitor to compare the pictures between themselves.


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## scs (Jun 5, 2017)

Lumencrazy said:


> I assume that all of the pictures were taken in raw format and I am sure everyone is looking through a color corrected calibrated monitor.



Like twistedraven said, not necessary in this case. Pics were stated to have been taken using the same camera settings. The relative appearance of color among the pics matters, not the absolute color accuracy in each pic.

I for one prefer not to gain richer colors at the cost of also adding it where it doesn't belong.


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## Desdinova (Jun 6, 2017)

Thank you for the pics. I'm still on the fence about the CRI or white. Great pics, BTW.


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## Swede74 (Jun 6, 2017)

Lumencrazy said:


> I assume that all of the pictures were taken in raw format and I am sure everyone is looking through a color corrected calibrated monitor.





scs said:


> Like twistedraven said, not necessary in this case. Pics were stated to have been taken using the same camera settings. The relative appearance of color among the pics matters, not the absolute color accuracy in each pic.
> 
> I for one prefer not to gain richer colors at the cost of also adding it where it doesn't belong.



In the interest of full* disclosure, here is _some_ of the metadata from three of the pictures I posted yesterday. 







As you can see, the ISO setting is the same in all instances. As for the White Balance, you will have to take my word for it that I used "Daylight" consistently. Exposure Time / Shutter Speed / Light Value vary quite a bit, but I was unable to or the application on my phone did not allow me to change those settings. 

* I am not deliberately withholding data, but I routinely remove metadata from image files before I upload them, in order to protect my anonymity. Some of the extracted data, such as File Creation Date/Time, Orientation, Software, is not presented in the screen capture above. In an effort to save time, I only provide metadata from 3/5 of the pictures I posted yesterday.


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## Swede74 (Jun 6, 2017)

Desdinova said:


> Thank you for the pics. I'm still on the fence about the CRI or white. Great pics, BTW.



You are welcome. Subjectively, I would say that out of my seven Zebralights (SC51, H502, SC52, SC600, SC600w II, H32w and SC5c II, the SC5c II does render colours more accurately than the other ones. I will likely be my go-to light when I want to illuminate bowls of fruit and vegetables. 

It leaves something to be desired for the white wall hunter though; the hotspot and the spill look good, but the transition between the hotspot and the spill is not as smooth as, for instance, the beam pattern produced by my H32w. The SC5c has a more pronounced yellow ring around the hotspot than the H32w. This is not a problem (for me) in real-world use.


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## 18650 (Jun 6, 2017)

All of those except the sunlight picture look disgusting. High CRI or not, those warm CCT look bad. Bring on the high CRI 5700K Nichia emitters.


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## gunga (Jun 6, 2017)

I agree with swede74. On a white wall it's not too pretty. I've been very satisfied in actual use.


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## marinemaster (Jun 6, 2017)

18650 said:


> All of those except the sunlight picture look disgusting. High CRI or not, those warm CCT look bad. Bring on the high CRI 5700K Nichia emitters.



Is looks good, except the CW picture


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## twistedraven (Jun 6, 2017)

Keep in mind that they're all white balanced to sunlight, which means they will all be subjectively warmer on the pictures than what your adjusted eyes will see at night.


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## snowlover91 (Jun 6, 2017)

18650 said:


> All of those except the sunlight picture look disgusting. High CRI or not, those warm CCT look bad. Bring on the high CRI 5700K Nichia emitters.



They look fine except the cool white. I think part of what is deceptive is the flashlights have a hotspot and aren't as bright as the direct sunlight. The overall color representation looks fine, outside of the cool white which clearly washes things out. I've also found that cameras can have a hard time capturing flashlight beams vs a natural light source.


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## scs (Jun 6, 2017)

twistedraven said:


> Keep in mind that they're all white balanced to sunlight, which means they will all be subjectively warmer on the pictures than what your adjusted eyes will see at night.



Interesting point. Without a reference CCT, in other words in the dark, does our eyes' WB automatically decrease no matter the time of day?


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## Andrey (Jun 7, 2017)

Not only that, but comfort CCT depends on the brightness too.
This phenomena was researched by professor Arie Andries Kruithof and represented by the curve bearing his name.


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## Albinoni1967 (Jun 7, 2017)

This flashlight looks very similar to a Manker


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## Mattz68 (Jun 7, 2017)

Albinoni1967 said:


> This flashlight looks very similar to a Manker[/QUOTE
> Not sure how long "manker" has been around...but it was over 2 years when i bought my first SC5w. (body design is basically the same as the new one)


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## gunga (Jun 7, 2017)

Manker came out with zebralight look a likes a few years ago. They look similar but don't work nearly as well.


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## Mattz68 (Jun 7, 2017)

I totally agree (even though I own Zero Mankers) -because I love Z.L.! Anyway, I believe the newest SC5c's "roots" are kinda a hybrid of the old SC80 and the more modern SC600. The knurling, the more bulbis head, was Zebralight's transition to a "tougher" looking light; much different looking than the smooth, smaller headed, (bland looking) SC60.


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## Witterings (Jun 8, 2017)

gunga said:


> Manker came out with zebralight look a likes a few years ago. They look similar but don't work nearly as well.



What makes you say the Manker ones don't work nearly as well?? 

I really can't decide between an E11 and SC52w, the E11 I modded with a slightly warmer XP-L Hi ... I often put them back to back and I think I actually prefer the E11 at about 1/2 the cost included the new emitter.


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## gunga (Jun 8, 2017)

I'm not a huge fan of the levels nor do I think the UI is as refined. I also don't like their clips.


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## Witterings (Jun 8, 2017)

gunga said:


> I'm not a huge fan of the levels nor do I think the UI is as refined. I also don't like their clips.



Does that constitute "But doesn't work nearly as well" ... surely they're all personal preferences ... they both "Work" as well as each other?

And don't get me wrong I'm not knocking ZL I think they're brilliant lights and have 4 of them non of which I'd get rid of but I think there are others that are just as good with not so high a price tag.


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## Lumencrazy (Jun 8, 2017)

That's called the free market. Zebralight has chosen their niche and it works for them. Choosing what customers you will not pursue is also a very important business decision (the 80/20 rule).


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## iamlucky13 (Jun 8, 2017)

Andrey said:


> Not only that, but comfort CCT depends on the brightness too.
> This phenomena was researched by professor Arie Andries Kruithof and represented by the curve bearing his name.



Interesting information and fits a subtle impression I had. Thanks for posting that.


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## gunga (Jun 8, 2017)

Witterings said:


> Does that constitute "But doesn't work nearly as well" ... surely they're all personal preferences ... they both "Work" as well as each other?
> 
> And don't get me wrong I'm not knocking ZL I think they're brilliant lights and have 4 of them non of which I'd get rid of but I think there are others that are just as good with not so high a price tag.



TiS true. It's my feeling and not a fact. These points are what I think :

- I prefer the zebralight UI and especially the modes available. 
- I really dislike the Manker clip. 
- I believe that Zebralights are generally better made and more reliable but this is not based on tons of evidence. 
- I believe Manker copied the zebralight design though this is also up for debate and is far from an uncommon occurrence. 

That said, if the Manker had better modes and ui (for me) I'd probably get one too.


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## marinemaster (Jun 13, 2017)

Zebralight. Solid design, solid engineering. One multifunction button. 100% reliable. Perfectly portable. Continuous improvement. 100% my experience.


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## markr6 (Jun 14, 2017)

marinemaster said:


> Zebralight. Solid design, solid engineering. One multifunction button. 100% reliable. Perfectly portable. Continuous improvement. 100% my experience.



Agreed 100%! When you have people talking about a light that does not yet exist for months, then they order without even seeing photos or specs, you're well beyond "just another flashlight".


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## jon_slider (Jun 14, 2017)

markr6 said:


> you have people talking about a light that does not yet exist for months, then they order without even seeing photos or specs...


then they get the light, don't like the tint, return it, and order another one hoping for a different tint

In the HDS arena, people also order the latest model, sight unseen... but they do not get the "free trial period" Zebras offer.

In fact, people here often order lights before they are even produced, ReyLights are another example.

I recall the Nitecore Tip thread ran for a long time before people actually started to receive their lights.

Basically, someone starts a thread, (the guy named nichia does it a lot) people get excited with anticipation, predictions of perfect tint, unequalled runtimes, etc. Eventually the lights start arriving, and some are pleased, while others are not.

It also helps sales to have multiple threads about the same light. Sometimes they are called "reviews", but mostly they are just photos of stock propaganda.

It is always exciting to think about a new light. Its much less fun to wait to see peoples reactions to their purchase.

My biggest problem is the tendency to order lights, while other orders are still in the mail. In anticipation, I seem to shop more. Its like I need 3 of everything, each with a different color temperature . That means I end up using modders to install different LEDs than stock.

Im definitely beyond being able to carry all the lights I own.. why do I keep buying more?.. its an addiction. But other codependents will support me, there is even a special word for people with my problem, its similar to the word alcoholic, and we all know That is an addiction. 

I do agree that Zebralights have many addictive properties. I mean, look at all those modes! You know you want some.


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## markr6 (Jun 14, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> then they get the light, don't like the tint, return it, and order another one hoping for a different tint



That's totally Zebralight's call. I've done it before...why not? But I'm not window shopping...I'm a dissatisfied customer at that point; it has to be really bad (maybe you've seen my yellow "bug bulb" post.

Same with so many vendors, stores, retailers. I can even buy underwear and return it!! Did someone wear it? Gross, but that's how it goes. They usually just ask "is there anything wrong with it" when you return stuff to any store (Target, Walmart, etc)

If people have a problem with it, then tell Zebralight how to do their business...I'm sure they'll listen. And call Walmart headquarters and tell them to stop accepting underwear returns.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 14, 2017)

I like Zebralights and own quite a few, but admittedly I haven't had the greatest luck with them.

*- UI*: generally good. But it's very easy to accidentally blast yourself with turbo when you only wanted moonlight. Especially if it's the middle of the night and you're half asleep. Very easy to mess up the timing. I consider the Olight UI or the DrJones Moppydrv UI to be superior, because those do not have this issue.
*- reliability*: I've had awful luck with mine, with 8 of 11 Zebras experiencing problems (72% dud rate). I've owned the following Zebralights:

SC51 - no issues
SC52 - worked fine initially, but after minimal use it no longer stays in turbo. Even on a full cell, it will drop out of turbo mode in less than 10 seconds. This is much less than the 1 minute of turbo the light is rated for.
SC52w - same problem as SC52
SC600 (early Mark 1) - light came with a switch defect common to first-run early model SC600s. The switch would activate just from being lightly brushed with a finger or thumb without being depressed or clicked at all. Returned for warranty repair. Took 2-3 months to come back, but no issues since.
SC80 - H2 setting didn't work out of the box. Double-clicking to switch from H1 to H2 causes the LED to flash briefly then turn off. However, low modes, medium modes, and H1 all work fine so the light is good enough as-is.
SC32w - same problem as SC53
SC62w - initially worked fine. After a few days it was dropping out of turbo mode after just 1-2 seconds even on a fresh high-quality cell. Returned and replaced it with another SC62w. 
Second SC62w - Same issue as SC52
SC5w - initially worked great. After less than 3 weeks of use the output greatly dimmed. Now on a fresh cell maximum output is maybe 1 lumen. Either the driver or LED needs replacement.
SC63w - no issues
SC600w III HI - no issues.

None of my Zebralights has seen heavy use or been dropped. The casing on all of them is in pristine condition.

I like Zebras, but given my history of 72% being duds, I'm hesitant to buy another.


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## snowlover91 (Jun 14, 2017)

We fireclaw, that's some really bad luck lol. I have 7 zebralights and have yet to experience any issues with them, some are several years old now. It seems you've been getting a little better reliability from your newest ones though.


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## TCY (Jun 14, 2017)

I would definitely not buy another ZL if over 70% of them fail...luckily the 3 ZLs I own are flawless so far. The good old SC62W is almost 3 years old and still going strong.


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## markr6 (Jun 15, 2017)

TCY said:


> I would definitely not buy another ZL if over 70% of them fail...luckily the 3 ZLs I own are flawless so far. The good old SC62W is almost 3 years old and still going strong.



Yeah even I'm not crazy enough to play those odds. But personally, I've been lucky. I don't recall any issues whatsoever other than two unacceptable tints that had to go back. OTOH there were all kinds of post here about lenses cracking, switches failing, bad anodizing, DOA, flickering. I like to think most of those happened within a specific window and are now fixed.


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## Fireclaw18 (Jun 15, 2017)

I wonder if the problems with my zebras come from how I ordered them. Except for my SC51, all my Zebras were prerelease preorders direct from Zebralight. Maybe it's better to wait a little bit before buying a Zebra to make sure all the kinks are worked out.


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## marinemaster (Jun 15, 2017)

That is what I have always done. Wait.


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## TCY (Jun 15, 2017)

All the ZLs I own, I pre-ordered them the moment ZL made it available. So It's more of a luck problem...


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## snowlover91 (Jun 15, 2017)

Fireclaw18 said:


> I wonder if the problems with my zebras come from how I ordered them. Except for my SC51, all my Zebras were prerelease preorders direct from Zebralight. Maybe it's better to wait a little bit before buying a Zebra to make sure all the kinks are worked out.



Ive always preordered too except for one of my SC62w lights and a used SC5 OP I bought. The rest were preorders. I do think with any company that the initial first or second batch has the highest chance of having issues and usually subsequent batches are fixed. I've seen this even with big companies like Samsung and Apple. Still can't help but preordering and taking a chance and so far I've had good luck both with tint and great lights.


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## recDNA (Jun 17, 2017)

I have 3 ZL sc32w, sc62w, sc52. All work perfectly although I won't use the sc32w with primary in brightest mode. I personally think the amp draw is a little high for a primary but I'm sure ZL engineers know a hell of a lot more than I. It's no problem since I see no use for the highest mode anyway. 

I think the sc62w is one of the best flashlights ever built. I prefer it to the 63 for reasons I will not bring up since they've already been debated to death. 

I never tried the Manker version. 

Although I have much more expensive lights that are arguably better than the 62w for one reason or another I find the 62w in my pocket most often. Most comfortable 18670 sized flashlight to pocket carry ever built imo.

I wish the 5C used 16340 or 18650. I'm not crazy about AA flashlights that won't take lithium ion batteries.


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## eraursls1984 (Jun 17, 2017)

recDNA said:


> I think the sc62w is one of the best flashlights ever built. I prefer it to the 63 for reasons I will not bring up since they've already been debated to death.
> 
> Although I have much more expensive lights that are arguably better than the 62w for one reason or another I find the 62w in my pocket most often. Most comfortable 18670 sized flashlight to pocket carry ever built imo.
> 
> I wish the 5C used 16340 or 18650. I'm not crazy about AA flashlights that won't take lithium ion batteries.


I agree about the SC62w. Even if I'm carrying a high end 18350 I still have my SC62w with me.

I can't wait for the 18650 and CR123 versions of this new driver. I think we'll see the SC3/SC33 first since the 6 series just got upgraded and the SC32 was discontinued. I'm hoping for G7 on the 18650 lights to have 3 modes per subset. I'm fine with no Li-ion support on the 5 series, but not so much on the 3 series (unless there is another decent rechargeable option).


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## jruser (Jun 17, 2017)

I got mine today from the new batch. Beam pattern is terrible. yellow hole in the middle of the hotspot, surrounded by decent tint hotspot, surrounded by yellow ring, surrounded by decent tint spill.

What causes this? reflector? LED? centering is fine.


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## snowlover91 (Jun 17, 2017)

jruser said:


> I got mine today from the new batch. Beam pattern is terrible. yellow hole in the middle of the hotspot, surrounded by decent tint hotspot, surrounded by yellow ring, surrounded by decent tint spill.
> 
> What causes this? reflector? LED? centering is fine.



Are you able to post pictures of the beamshot?


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## snowlover91 (Jun 17, 2017)

Well my wife just brought my SC5 MK2, apparently my 18 month old put it in the washing machine and it went through with all the laundry. I'm happy to report that there are a few spots of ano missing on the tailcap but that the light itself still functions perfectly!


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## TCY (Jun 17, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Well my wife just brought my SC5 MK2, apparently my 18 month old put it in the washing machine and it went through with all the laundry. I'm happy to report that there are a few spots of ano missing on the tailcap but that the light itself still functions perfectly!



Good to know, thanks for sharing


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## marinemaster (Jun 17, 2017)

Im not surprised it came out ok they are sealed and potted.

And yea the SC62W is great.


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## jruser (Jun 18, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Are you able to post pictures of the beamshot?



I tried, but you can't see the problems in the picture I took.

Also, mine came with the stiff black clip attached, but it also came with a second clip of a different type and a camo headband for holding the light. Did anybody else get the extra clip and headband?


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## snowlover91 (Jun 18, 2017)

jruser said:


> I tried, but you can't see the problems in the picture I took.
> 
> Also, mine came with the stiff black clip attached, but it also came with a second clip of a different type and a camo headband for holding the light. Did anybody else get the extra clip and headband?



It came with an extra clip and head band? If you ordered the SC5 MK2 it should only be the light, and a set of extra o-rings. Did you order directly from ZL or from a distributor?


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## jruser (Jun 18, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> It came with an extra clip and head band? If you ordered the SC5 MK2 it should only be the light, and a set of extra o-rings. Did you order directly from ZL or from a distributor?



Ordered direct from Zebralight a couple weeks ago and was back-ordered. Side of the light reads "SC5c II". The box contained what looks like the SC80/SC600 clip, camo headband with black silicone holder, and 2 extra o-rings.


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## eraursls1984 (Jun 18, 2017)

I got a SC5c for Father's Day and mine had the extra headlamp clip and headlamp strap. I thought they sent the wrong light at first (I sent both links to my wife).

I love it, but against a wall I can see the yellow ring around the hotspot. I always use magic tape on general purpose lights so that should even out once I put the diffuser on.


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## gunga (Jun 18, 2017)

Yep. I saw that too. I think the latest generation of cree LEDS are prone to tint variation across the beam. Any diffusion will blend it out but it's not the best in reflector lights.


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## Swede74 (Jun 18, 2017)

jruser said:


> Ordered direct from Zebralight a couple weeks ago and was back-ordered. Side of the light reads "SC5c II". The box contained what looks like the SC80/SC600 clip, camo headband with black silicone holder, and 2 extra o-rings.



Does it look as if the sticker on the cardboard box has been replaced, or affixed on top of an old sticker? This is mere speculation, but I was thinking that perhaps Zebralight shipped your light in a box that had previously contained a returned item, and the person who packed the (recycled) box with your SC5c failed to notice that there were some accessories left behind in it.

Or maybe someone at the factory was in a mischievous mood when they shipped your light  Either way, I would consider the extra goodies a bonus - one that unfortunately does not compensate for the terrible beam pattern.

Edit: Having read eraursls1984's post - who also received the extra headlamp clip and strap - I have revised my theory. At this point in time*, I think it is more likely that someone had mistakenly put SC5c II stickers on boxes that were pre-packed with H-series light accessories.

*Theory may be subject to further revisions.


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## emarkd (Jun 18, 2017)

gunga said:


> I think the latest generation of cree LEDS are prone to tint variation across the beam.



Yup, pretty much any recent Cree LED that has the full phosphor layer, the ones where the entire top side of the package is yellow to the edges, has that terrible off-color corona. XP-G3s, XP-L2s, the new XHP50.2s, etc. Ugh.


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## gunga (Jun 18, 2017)

Thanks for the confirmation!


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## recDNA (Jun 19, 2017)

emarkd said:


> Yup, pretty much any recent Cree LED that has the full phosphor layer, the ones where the entire top side of the package is yellow to the edges, has that terrible off-color corona. XP-G3s, XP-L2s, the new XHP50.2s, etc. Ugh.


Well that sucks


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## vadimax (Jun 23, 2017)

Got mine. That clip must has been made from a bear trap spring. Cannot use it without destroying clothes.


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## markr6 (Jun 23, 2017)

vadimax said:


> Got mine. That clip must has been made from a bear trap spring. Cannot use it without destroying clothes.



LOL! I need to bend mine back, but I didn't try yet because I don't have a hydraulic log splitter.


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## jon_slider (Jun 23, 2017)

jruser said:


> I got mine today from the new batch. Beam pattern is terrible. yellow hole in the middle of the hotspot, surrounded by decent tint hotspot, surrounded by yellow ring, surrounded by decent tint spill.





jruser said:


> What causes this? reflector? LED? centering is fine.


the XP-L2 causes it.



emarkd said:


> gunga said:
> 
> 
> > _I think the latest generation of cree LEDS are prone to *tint variation across the beam*._
> ...



this report explains the reason for the tint shift:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54987


EasyB said:


> pronounced angular/spatial “tint shift” in the beam which was distracting and hindered object identification. In this post I will explain these observations as resulting from the new “flip-chip” architecture that the XPG3 uses.
> ...
> *Conclusions:*
> The actual XPG3 die luminance is relatively low (compared to dedomed XPL V6 and XPG2), as several in-flashlight measurements suggested. The flip-chip architecture used by the XPG3 causes light to escape to the sides which caused errors in bare die luminance measurements. The total lumen output is high, but *significant amounts of that light emanate from the area to the sides of the die. This fact causes the undesirable tint-shift* in flashlight beams.



I think:
"_any recent Cree LED that has the full phosphor layer" = _flip-chip architecture = XP-L2 in new Zebras


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## snowlover91 (Jun 24, 2017)

vadimax said:


> Got mine. That clip must has been made from a bear trap spring. Cannot use it without destroying clothes.



Mine was that way too, carefully bend it back a little and it'll loosen enough to prevent that while still being firm!


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## marinemaster (Jun 24, 2017)

Short of a holster, I do prefer a strong clip like the ZL has. I almost lost previous lights with weak clips.


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## vadimax (Jun 24, 2017)

Some minds on attempts to get rid of a "pre-flash" on double click to get M mode. Replacing H and L in G6 or G7 groups might be useless. Pay attention to the dim light that is seen for a fraction of a second when you turn on H with one click in the default G5 group. What you see is... L1 mode  As a result by assigning L1 to a single click and H1 to a longer click you will get a fabulous H1 flash right before engaging L1  I guess, not much better than a H1 "pre-flash" before M1 as it comes from a factory.


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## gunga (Jun 25, 2017)

yep. I noted that too. It's earlier in the thread.


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## vadimax (Jun 25, 2017)

I guess I have some idea of tint variation depending on beam angle: the dome of these new LEDs is not entirely transparent, it looks like having some phosphorus inside. This way light beam going directly forward from a die center passes thicker phosphorus layer than the one on a dome edge and going sideways. As a result: different tint in the beam area.

This new "phosphorus fog" in a dome technology looks cool, but definitely sucks in the beam quality domain.


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## gunga (Jun 26, 2017)

I have an update for those interested. 

I sent my Zebralights (Sc5c II and h53c) back due to some nicks and scrapes I did not appreciate, along with some rather nasty tint variation. After some negotiation, they agreed to pay for the majority of the the return shipping cost (to the states). 

After a delay of a week or so, the new lights shipped from China (I'm in Canada). I insisted they ship via ems since that was what was originally paid for. An extra one to two month wait was not acceptable. 

In any case, I'm pretty pleased. While not 100% perfect (what is?), these are a definite improvement. The LED Centering seems spot on for both. The fit and finish is excellent as it should be (no noticeable splotches in the anodizing, bad nicks etc). The tint seems improved. There is still tint variation, and the corona is still not pretty (touch of green) but it seems better. This is all subjective of course. 

As before, the beam and tint is very pleasant in use, I don't notice any issues with the beam and tint when I'm not staring at a white wall. It's nice and somewhat warm (which is my preference). Also, when the beam is blended with a diffusion film the tint is smooth and uniform. 

Overall I'm very pleased now and wish they had gotten it right the first time. At least was able to exchange the original lights. Kudos for some nice customer service.


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## Swede74 (Jun 26, 2017)

gunga said:


> I have an update for those interested.
> 
> 
> I sent my Zebralights (Sc5c II and h53c) back due to some nicks and scrapes I did not appreciate, along with some rather nasty tint variation. After some negotiation, they agreed to pay for the majority of the the return shipping cost (to the states).
> ...






Swede74 said:


> I think I have discovered what could be a firmware bug. In mode group G7 (possibly also G6) if I program M1 or M2 to max output, the 3-min step-down is disabled, or non-existent. I let the light run for well over four minutes, at which point it was quite hot to the touch but not alarmingly so.




If you have the time, perhaps you could program any other level than H1 in mode group 6 or 7 to max output on your new SC5c II, and let it run for >3 minutes? I would like to know if they have addressed the issue with the 3-min step-down working only if you leave max output in its original H1 "mode slot".


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## iamlucky13 (Jun 26, 2017)

Gunga, do you have any thoughts on how your SC5C compares to your Reylight Ti Lan? I know they're rather different - the former with more modes, an electronic button, and the resources of a larger company to help refine it, the latter with a rear clicky, more pocketable, and far a more attractive, premium body material, but they're both high CRI AA lights in a similar price range.

How do you think the XP-L2 compares to the 219C aside from the former obviously being capable of higher output levels, but perhaps being more of a tint lottery.


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## Antal gábor (Jun 30, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> If you have the time, perhaps you could program any other level than H1 in mode group 6 or 7 to max output on your new SC5c II, and let it run for >3 minutes? I would like to know if they have addressed the issue with the 3-min step-down working only if you leave max output in its original H1 "mode slot".



Dear Swede74! This question did not let me rest, so I wrote to the customer service! ... they said: 

Customer
6/29/2017 10:45:25 AM	Dear Zebralight, I bought two sc5c ll flashlights.I would like to believe it works according to the specifications ... but before I have some questions !!! 1): When I set the light to the g6 or g7 group and the maximum brightness (475 lumens [No matter if H1-H2 or M1-M2 or L1-L2]) I'll let it run for more than 3 minutes, but the light will not go down to 352 lumens !!! Go ahead 475 lumens and the light is very hot !! This is a normal phenomenon or my flashlight is defective? If this is normal then I have to worry about burning the electronics or can I run the light while the battery is running out? Note: Everything in the g5 group works well The above-described phenomenon is the same in both light Works! 2): Is the low battery warning feature removed from the Sc5 models?

Staff (Administrator)
6/29/2017 11:46:59 PM	To your questions:
1) We have not decided whether or not to have a timer on the highest output level yet. The 475Lm output will be 'hot', but the max temperature will be less than 65 degree Celsius, and is within the safe working limit of all electronic components and the battery. 
2) No.

Customer
6/30/2017 12:39:13 AM	Thanks for the quick and reassuring answer!  Sincerely, Gábor Antal.

I think this is very good !!! This is a real Little Hot-Rod !!!


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## TCY (Jun 30, 2017)

So the light has been out for two months and they still don't know if they should include the step down feature on turbo?


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## Antal gábor (Jun 30, 2017)

TCY said:


> So the light has been out for two months and they still don't know if they should include the step down feature on turbo?




Now we know !!! But it's cool !!! ... it's like if a BMW could turn off the speed limit !!! FACTORY !!! This is a good opportunity to get the maximum, impunity!


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## Swede74 (Jun 30, 2017)

Thank you for the information Antal gábor (and Zebralight).

It is good to know that my light is not the only one exhibiting this behaviour. Although a part of Zebralight's response is somewhat peculiar: "We have not decided whether or not to have a timer on the highest output level yet" when the light, as TCY noted, has been out for two months; what they said about the max temperature being less than 65 °C is reassuring and has helped me decide that the lack of a timer in mode groups G6 and G7 is a feature, not a bug.


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## Antal gábor (Jun 30, 2017)

I think Zebralight referred to the third generation. Sc5c ll and its brothers are relative "low power" so there is no need for a step down or PID circuit! Then maybe the Mklll generation gets PID circuit! I hope you will not have a problem during long-term use! Then time will tell you. But I'm calm because Zebra knows what he is doing!


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## autoxer (Jun 30, 2017)

snowlover91 said:


> Here is how I set mine up, you may want to try it as it works great for me.
> 
> Single click - I programmed my low settings of choice here, a 3 lumen and around .28 lumen setting.
> Double click - This is my high mode, when I double click from off you don't get a weird preflash you can see since the single click is low. Works out great.
> ...


I just wanted to chime in to say thanks for this setup advice!! I received my SC5w MKII yesterday - my first Zebralight. After playing with it in G5 for a while, I really wanted single click low and double click high. I found your post and set up my G6 exactly like this, and I feel it's perfect now. It makes more sense in my brain and is a very natural configuration for me.


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## snowlover91 (Jun 30, 2017)

autoxer said:


> I just wanted to chime in to say thanks for this setup advice!! I received my SC5w MKII yesterday - my first Zebralight. After playing with it in G5 for a while, I really wanted single click low and double click high. I found your post and set up my G6 exactly like this, and I feel it's perfect now. It makes more sense in my brain and is a very natural configuration for me.



Awesome, glad it worked for you!! I thought for several weeks about the best setup and this one seemed the most practical, easy to use and prevents the bright preflash issue. I usually click for low, then if it’s not enough just press/hold until medium or high works. For the rare times I need high from off it’s just two clicks away! Enjoy the light, they’re tough as mine survived a washing machine due to my 18 month old putting it in there lol.


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## Swede74 (Jun 30, 2017)

Antal gábor said:


> I think Zebralight referred to the third generation. Sc5c ll and its brothers are relative "low power" so there is no need for a step down or PID circuit! Then maybe the Mklll generation gets PID circuit! I hope you will not have a problem during long-term use! Then time will tell you. But I'm calm because Zebra knows what he is doing!



I am not sure I would call the SC5c and its brothers "low power". It is true that they do not put out as much light as the SC600 and SC6x models, but they are also smaller and less efficient at dissipating heat. Perhaps a timed step-down or PID is not absolutely necessary on the SC5c, but if there was no need for it at all, why would there be a step-down in mode group G5 (and not in G6/G7)? 

Anyway, while I still think Zebralight has not quite answered your question, I am no longer worried that if I run my light in turbo until the cell is depleted, it might damage the electronics. It may be safe to do so, but the runtime you get out of an Eneloop Pro will be very short, plus it will probably cause the cell to age prematurely, so I am not going to run the light on turbo deliberately for more than three minutes, except for testing purposes.


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## gunga (Jun 30, 2017)

I just got my replacement lights and have not tried this yet. The only issue I can think of is that I still have some Zebralights with the old firmware. I might get mixed up.


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## Antal gábor (Jul 1, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> I am not sure I would call the SC5c and its brothers "low power". It is true that they do not put out as much light as the SC600 and SC6x models, but they are also smaller and less efficient at dissipating heat. Perhaps a timed step-down or PID is not absolutely necessary on the SC5c, but if there was no need for it at all, why would there be a step-down in mode group G5 (and not in G6/G7)?
> 
> Anyway, while I still think Zebralight has not quite answered your question, I am no longer worried that if I run my light in turbo until the cell is depleted, it might damage the electronics. It may be safe to do so, but the runtime you get out of an Eneloop Pro will be very short, plus it will probably cause the cell to age prematurely, so I am not going to run the light on turbo deliberately for more than three minutes, except for testing purposes.



The 3 minutes of step-down may be part of the original firmware and it's about battery life. But since we've got a new user interface where you can "do what you want" (of course not quite), they left us the opportunity too! I agree that the battery is aging fast, even Eneloop pro. But this light is a little hot rod, and if the Dunlop tires are burning, it should be replaced!:devil:


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## Antal gábor (Jul 1, 2017)

... so Zebralight would be expected to release a detailed information about each model, what is it that is free or not. I remember how surprised (and many others too!) when the sc600 mklll HI was released and there was a certain announcement: " Programmable PID thermal regulation temperature target value (existed in all lights with the PID thermal regulation feature since late 2012)" WTF??? Since 2012, and are you just saying?!! Who knows, but it may be that sc5c and his brothers already have this function, but we will officially know it in four years' time. If I remember somewhere in Selfbuilt review I read once that first generation sc5 lights have a PID circuit but are not calibrated and use the timer ....


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## Nichia! (Jul 11, 2017)

It's a funny thing that this New model and the other one they have been IN STOCK for a while now!
It seems there is not much interest in these lights anymore because of the reports..


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## eraursls1984 (Jul 11, 2017)

Nichia! said:


> It's a funny thing that this New model and the other one they have been IN STOCK for a while now!
> It seems there is not much interest in these lights anymore because of the reports..


Or they are having more made in the initial batches.


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## gunga (Jul 11, 2017)

I got mine replaced. Now it's one of my favourites...


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## Swede74 (Jul 11, 2017)

gunga said:


> I got mine replaced. Now it's one of my favourites...



I have sent mine back for a replacement. Here's how I described the problem to Zebralight, who suggested I sent it back to the reseller. 

I tried to capture the problem on video. The video shows, albeit not very clearly, a SC52 and the SC5c I have since sent back powered by identical cells. I press and hold the buttons on both lights; hopefully you can tell that the SC52 cycles through low-mid-high and completely outshines the SC52, when it's supposed to be the other way around.



> _The light worked well out of the box, although I soon discovered that in mode groups G6 and G7, the three minute step-down in H1 is disabled, or does not exist. This has not been a problem since I have mostly used mode group G5, in which the step-down is present and reliable. _
> 
> _Yesterday, when I turned on the light by pressing and holding the button, it appeared as if H1 was missing. The light would cycle through low/mid/-/; I could "kind of" detect that it also cycled through high, but high was not any brighter than mid. Much like when you cycle through modes with a nearly depleted battery. _
> 
> ...



Zebralight responded (very promptly, on a Saturday) that they can only speculate there are some connection and/or battery issues.

NKON also responded very promptly, on a Sunday.


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## Mattz68 (Jul 11, 2017)

I think the negative feedback early on definitely hurt this light's reputation (at least on C.P.F.) It's a shame because it's VERY well constructed and feels great in the hand. However, it's a light advertised to have a "top level" tint, so you would think Zebralight might have inspected the quality BEFORE shipping.


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## markr6 (Jul 12, 2017)

The high CRI wasn't enough for me. I replaced it with the SC5w II and I can't tell a difference in CRI. I do like the 4500K instead of 4000K.


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## Tixx (Jul 12, 2017)

markr6 said:


> The high CRI wasn't enough for me. I replaced it with the SC5w II and I can't tell a difference in CRI. I do like the 4500K instead of 4000K.



Great, and I ordered the 4000k high cri just this moring.


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## snowlover91 (Jul 12, 2017)

Mattz68 said:


> I think the negative feedback early on definitely hurt this light's reputation (at least on C.P.F.) It's a shame because it's VERY well constructed and feels great in the hand. However, it's a light advertised to have a "top level" tint, so you would think Zebralight might have inspected the quality BEFORE shipping.



The tint is as expected from a Cree 4000k LED. It has a slight yellow tint to it because of where it falls on the BBL. Some are so accustomed to the Nichia tint that the yellow tint is a turnoff. By contrast, I find it does a great job representing colors extremely well. If you shine it on a white wall and look closely, you’ll see a hint of yellow. I prefer to use my lights and it outperforms my other Zebralights for color rendering, especially outdoors. In fact, I would say it does even better than Nichia outdoors, specifically with anything green or brown. Foliage really stands out, wood grain looks excellent. It’s a great tint with excellent CRI, just something that some people don’t like.

Tixx, I think you’ll enjoy this light  Once you receive it be sure to let us know how it is!


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## ven (Jul 14, 2017)

Interesting stuff, my 1st ZL and xp-l2 easy white(does anyone know if this is a quad die like the previous easy white?). My sample is certainly towards the yellow side, reminds me a little bit of the 219c 4000k(which is also towards yellow). Colours look good, cant see here in this hot spot pic though






However a few days of use, its gone from an instant like to a love. My next ZL will have a bigger tank(18650) , maybe an xhp50 in the sc600Fd mk III which would suit me well. 
Its not often i take a light in work and use it, then bring it home to use.................then back in work next day for use and home again!


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## scs (Jul 14, 2017)

It would be even sweeter if ZL offered an optional tailcap with strong magnet.
And a flanged bezel ring with a lip that covers the edge of the head.


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## ven (Jul 14, 2017)

scs said:


> It would be even sweeter if ZL offered an optional tailcap with strong magnet.
> And a flanged bezel ring with a lip that covers the edge of the head.



Agree, that would certainly have its uses. The bezel ring is proud by a few thou, but i admit i wondered why they designed it this way. Would have been better for more protection to cover the whole edge.............maybe design/looks over bullet proof won.


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## emarkd (Jul 14, 2017)

ven said:


> However a few days of use, its gone from an instant like to a love. My next ZL will have a bigger tank(18650) , maybe an xhp50 in the sc600Fd mk III which would suit me well.
> Its not often i take a light in work and use it, then bring it home to use.................then back in work next day for use and home again!



Careful, Zebras tend to be very addictive.


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## ven (Jul 14, 2017)

:laughing: It may be too late emarkd  Just pondering over my next one, maybe just get a couple, xhp35 neutral and xhp50 . Love your collection by the way , awesome!


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## TCY (Jul 14, 2017)

ven said:


> :laughing: It may be too late emarkd  Just pondering over my next one, maybe just get a couple, xhp35 neutral and xhp50 . Love your collection by the way , awesome!



ZL plans to release a 18650 based MK4 model later this year, hopefully a high CRI light. Remember to apologize to your wallet.:naughty:

I believe the XP-L2 easywhite is just a normal die unlike its XM-L2 equivalents as old easywhite models are separately listed by CREE and there's only one XP-L2 listing which includes easywhite options.


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## ven (Jul 15, 2017)

Thanks TCY, so it looks like i still need to get hold of an xm-l2 easy white then(not got but want to try out). I could not make a quad die out on the xp-l2, but as with the xhp35 , i thought it may be hard to tell if makes sense(die close together).



mk4 ............mmmm I know i would defo like the mk3, the mk4 may have the newer xhp50.2 of which i am not convinced on so far. By that i mean ct/tint which seems at the expense of a little more output. No actual experience of the newer .2's, just what i have read so far. I do have the xhp35 HI 5000k and that is a very nice ct/tint imo. So a NW xhp50 i would like to think would suit me pretty good


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## TCY (Jul 15, 2017)

My guess is that ZL wouldn't put XHP50.2 in their headlamp and SC64, the XP-L2 easywhite would be a more convincing candidate as ZL is focusing more and more on tint variation and CRI. If you are dead set on an XM-L2 easywhite, the H600Fd/c are decent choices but they come with a frosted lens to smooth out the beam artifacts.


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## ven (Jul 15, 2017)

Yes, will i am looking at the sc600fd mkIII as the floody beam suits my general uses(home or work). Just hope i can get hold of one UK side rather than order from ZL. However if it comes to that i will do. 

Used the xp-l2 easywhite last night a bit, although it is not my preferred tint(yellow side), in use its not much of an issue. Just takes a little getting used to from almost perfect white 4500k 219b's or the slightly rosy 219b's. I am one for having a little variety, i dont want all my lights to be the same. For example my xpl HI go from 4000k+, as with my nichia's 4000k-5700k . My sweet spot seems to be 4000-5000k.


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## vadimax (Jul 15, 2017)

ven said:


> Yes, will i am looking at the sc600fd mkIII as the floody beam suits my general uses(home or work). Just hope i can get hold of one UK side rather than order from ZL. However if it comes to that i will do.
> 
> Used the xp-l2 easywhite last night a bit, although it is not my preferred tint(yellow side), in use its not much of an issue. Just takes a little getting used to from almost perfect white 4500k 219b's or the slightly rosy 219b's. I am one for having a little variety, i dont want all my lights to be the same. For example my xpl HI go from 4000k+, as with my nichia's 4000k-5700k . My sweet spot seems to be 4000-5000k.



I have purchased my SC5c from eu.NKON.nl. Very competitive prices.


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## TCY (Jul 15, 2017)

ven said:


> Yes, will i am looking at the sc600fd mkIII as the floody beam suits my general uses(home or work). Just hope i can get hold of one UK side rather than order from ZL. However if it comes to that i will do.
> 
> Used the xp-l2 easywhite last night a bit, although it is not my preferred tint(yellow side), in use its not much of an issue. Just takes a little getting used to from almost perfect white 4500k 219b's or the slightly rosy 219b's. I am one for having a little variety, i dont want all my lights to be the same. For example my xpl HI go from 4000k+, as with my nichia's 4000k-5700k . My sweet spot seems to be 4000-5000k.



In that case, make sure you can arrange a replacement in case of a bad tint. I ordered directly from ZL and got a greenish sample and ZL happily offered a replacement, no hassle whatsoever.


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## ven (Jul 15, 2017)

Thanks guys, UK side would be flashaholics(great shop), however if no stock come time, then nkon is a good option! Cheers


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## foopluto (Jul 27, 2017)

Hello! Sorry for bad English...

Do you also have this problem?
1. Insert a low cell (below 1.2V, for example);
2. Turn the flashlight on level H1 or H2 (single click);
3. Wait a few minutes: the flashlight switches gradually to level M and finally L (firefly mode);
4. Now from firefly mode: turn off the flashlight;
5. My flashlight does not turn off, but switches in beacon mode (one flash every 4-5 seconds);
6. If you want to turn off the flashlight, you must: wait for it to turn off spontaneously, or unscrew the tailcap. Strange and very annoying!


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## Swede74 (Jul 27, 2017)

> 3. Wait a few minutes: the flashlight switches gradually to level M and finally L (firefly mode)


From Zebralight's website: Automatic stepping down from High to Medium, and from Medium to Low when battery capacity is low




> 5. My flashlight does not turn off, but switches in beacon mode (one flash every 4-5 seconds)


From Zebralight's website: Low battery alert when the light is switched OFF (LED flashes if the battery voltage is below ~1.06V)




> 6. If you want to turn off the flashlight, you must: wait for it to turn off spontaneously, or unscrew the tailcap. Strange and very annoying!


I think that is how the flashlight is supposed to behave when a cell that has a low voltage is inserted. I, too, find it somewhat annoying and would prefer if the low battery alert was limited to 30 seconds after the light is switched off. I would not call it a problem though - the alert is there for a reason and it is quite obvious what you have to do to make it go away :laughing:


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## jon_slider (Jul 27, 2017)

foopluto said:


> Do you also have this problem?
> 1. Insert a low cell (below 1.2V, for example);



No. I do not try to make a drained battery perform as if it was full, over and over again. This is quite bad for the battery. 

Charge your battery! STOP trying to make it produce high mode over and over, when it is drained.

IF Zebralight had given you a LiIon option, and you followed the same misbehavior of repeatedly firing High mode with a drained battery, then the LiIon could potentially erupt in flames the next time you try to charge it. 

Fortunately for people who don't understand, yet, that a depleted battery should NOT be repeatedly fired at High mode, the new Zebras don't work with LiIon. So the only damage is that you are destroying your Eneloop, but it won't FlameON!


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## foopluto (Jul 27, 2017)

Swede74 said:


> From Zebralight's website: Automatic stepping down from High to Medium, and from Medium to Low when battery capacity is low
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Thank you for the reply.
Step 3 is perfectly normal, I know the Zebra interface .
The real problem is point 6. OK, you're warning me that the battery is low. But why can not I turn off the flashlight by simply pressing the button? If I do not want to see the flashes again, I have to wait or unscrew the tailcap ... this is illogical.




jon_slider said:


> No. I do not try to make a drained battery perform as if it was full, over and over again. This is quite bad for the battery.
> 
> Charge your battery! STOP trying to make it produce high mode over and over, when it is drained.
> 
> ...



Obviously I do not insert batteries clearly exhausted.
The steps I wrote were needed to reproduce the problem easily


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## Swede74 (Jul 27, 2017)

foopluto said:


> Thank you for the reply.
> Step 3 is perfectly normal, I know the Zebra interface .
> The real problem is point 6. OK, you're warning me that the battery is low. But why can not I turn off the flashlight by simply pressing the button? If I do not want to see the flashes again, I have to wait or unscrew the tailcap ... this is illogical.



I think Zebralights (since the low battery alert was introduced) are supposed to blink every few seconds when battery voltage is low and the flashlight is turned "off". I put "off" in quotation marks because the only way to break the circuit on a Zebralight is to unscrew the tailcap slightly or remove the battery. The electronic switch draws a standby current while waiting for you to press the button. I could be wrong, but I think the reason the blinking sometimes stops after a short while, is the battery recovers enough voltage to get above the low battery warning threshold.


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## ven (Jul 27, 2017)

Can I ask which battery is being used? Simply because depending on cell, the voltage could dip more under load than others.


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## Cobraman502 (Jul 27, 2017)

scs said:


> It would be even sweeter if ZL offered an optional tailcap with strong magnet.
> And a flanged bezel ring with a lip that covers the edge of the head.



If they offer the optional magnet tail cap, that would be epic. I have been looking for a way to add a magnet to my SC52W.


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## foopluto (Jul 28, 2017)

ven said:


> Can I ask which battery is being used? Simply because depending on cell, the voltage could dip more under load than others.



My cat always eats lobster . So my electric torches must always have the best: Eneloop and Eneloop Pro. The driver boost requires very good batteries, there are not many alternatives.

Very sorry for this inconvenience, because the SC5c II is one of the best electric torches between my Zebralight (I have only Zebralight). However I sent the SC5c back and I was refunded. I'm ready to buy it again if this "problem" is solved.

A curiosity: does the "old" SC5 have the same "problem"?


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## snowlover91 (Jul 28, 2017)

foopluto said:


> My cat always eats lobster . So my electric torches must always have the best: Eneloop and Eneloop Pro. The driver boost requires very good batteries, there are not many alternatives.Very sorry for this inconvenience, because the SC5c II is one of the best electric torches between my Zebralight (I have only Zebralight). However I sent the SC5c back and I was refunded. I'm ready to buy it again if this "problem" is solved.A curiosity: does the "old" SC5 have the same "problem"?


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## chillinn (Aug 12, 2020)

I had an sc52w, loved it, but gave it away when I realized the PWM-like schema was giving me headaches when I used it as a room lamp for long periods as the only light source. 

I have had an sc62c for a long time. The tint is fantastic, wonderful for night photography, outdoor colors look better than they really are, saturated browns and reds. I showed it to my neighbor, and he loved it, while dissing my incans. But I could not give it up, especially because I can tell he is not mature or responsible enough for 18650s, even with a light like this that will never kill a Li-ion. 

I have been eyeing the SC5c MkII since it appeared. I loved the old clip, though it is crazy tight and destroys pants... hate the new clip, even before seeing it first hand. I read about the greenish cast tint complaints. I was hoping it would come down in price a little. I just pulled the plug on it from gpknives for $58. I will brave the PWM-like effects, and be wary. 

I bought 2, one for the neighbor. He is a total **** narcissist, but I nearly ruined his birthday, and _he is my neighbor_, and he has been decent for the last few months. My lawn guy just sprayed his side with clippings yesterday, call it karma, and the neighbor freaked out, made me laugh* all day. But the neighbor cleaned it up without more grief. Gifts are without strings attached, but I do hope he appreciates it and lightens up, no pun intended. We live in a really dark place in the sticks. I'll be pleased to not see him messing around in the dark with his dumb android phone. Non-flashaholics are so quaint.


*I am not a cruel person, schadenfreude is not my thing and I believe it is wrong, anti-Golden Rule. I like to think I am honest to a fault, but I could not be that good... every single person lies every day. Long story I won't tell, but the neighbor has been abusing me for a long time with smoke from his fires, definitely intentional, but also spraying my car with his grass clippings every time he mows, and shooting pinecones to my side and hitting my car with them... while I am in the car (I don't have lawn furniture, tailgate in the car instead). What can you do when someone does that? Nothing. As soon as you open your mouth, you sound like an idiot... so I never said anything, gotta give me that. Took me 2 years to realize he has a personality disorder, and I know exactly what it is, covert narcissism... the passive aggressiveness gives it away. He needs therapy, could be completely cured in less than 2 years just sitting down with a guy twice a month for 30 minutes, but it is the type of disorder that is rarely treated because one of the symptoms is an inability or unwillingness to recognize something is wrong, thus whole lives are spent repeating the same destructive patterns. I am really expecting no changes here. 

Epilogue: neighbor refused the gift! "I am not a willing participant in this exchange." No exchange, just a gift. I have subsequently gifted it to a college buddy, who was very excited about it, and grateful.


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## chillinn (Jan 11, 2022)

from different batches of ano. 
Model SC5c II discontinued.  
How long before SC5c III shows up?


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## CarpentryHero (Jan 11, 2022)

chillinn said:


> from different batches of ano.
> Model SC5c II discontinued.
> How long before SC5c III shows up?


I don’t think theirs any Zebralight releases being leaked, their hasn’t been any new versions since before Covid. 
That’s the trend for a lot of struggling companies, r&d goes down first


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## chillinn (Jan 11, 2022)

If R&D shut down, wouldn't it be far more profitable to continue replenishing stock of the models that were popular enough to sell out and suspend discontinuation of any models until R&D returns? In the time before COVID I wondered about ZL business decisions. I think if all they sold was a single model, a 5A single AA light, and never updated the model, never invested again in R&D, they'd do pretty well, better than the bleak picture you're seeing.


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## Bob_McBob (Jan 11, 2022)

The official line from Zebralight is that they won't be releasing any new models until the current global supply chain issues improve. I'm prepared to believe this since many of the major components used in current models like MCUs, voltage converters, and MOSFETs have extremely long lead times right now. They've also discontinued a bunch of the less popular SKUs due to LED availability, either because they don't want to order more (e.g. those ugly XP-L2 EasyWhites) or because XHP35 is discontinued. And the fact remains they don't really have any competition in their particular market niche, which is why their new product cycle is so long in the first place.

Both variants of the SC5 II were officially "discontinued" in May 2020, but the SC5w II was restocked as recently as December, so it's likely still being produced. The "c" version is probably gone now given the SC53 models using that LED are also properly discontinued.

I will say the SC5 II is pretty nice with alternative LEDs like 219B and 519A, though it does get a little toasty since there's no PID regulation. I would like to see 14500 support for higher output if a III version is ever released.


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## Connor (Jan 11, 2022)

I think this (ZebraLight not releasing anything new) started way before the supply chain crisis, though. 
As much as I like their lights, I'm not gonna believe anything the say anymore until they actually release new lights. It has been too long and other companies face similar problems.


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## chillinn (Jan 11, 2022)

Nothing but great news about ZebraLight, huh. 

Well, I was surprised to see I had two different ano colors on the same model. I mean, I realize that in itself is neither out of the ordinary nor even all that notable, but I had never seen it with Zebralight on the same model. The darker shade is a close match to the SC53c I have,


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## this_is_nascar (Jan 12, 2022)

I've always pictured ZL as being 1 or 2 guys working out of a garage or building out back. What they do, they've been doing well. I've come to accept nothing new on the horizon, use and admire the ones I have.

Change for the sake of change is not necessary a good thing.


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## chillinn (Jan 12, 2022)

The website design has just changed since last night. I liked the old website, very simple and easy to navigate. New site still simple with a little more pizazz.

I was mulling over getting an SC600w IV Plus. Now on backorder :/

Cree is no more. Sold off lighting, changed name to Wolfspeed. Will ZL ever consider Nichia? I'd pay 60% more for an SC600g (for "golden hour") with a Nichia E21A 3500K 90+ CRI that was half as bright as the Cree XHP50.2 80CRI, or just as bright with 60% of the runtime. But I don't believe it would be half as bright... but probably closer to 1700Lm. I also wish they had an "s" model, SC600s, for "sunrise/sunset," with E21A 2300K. and SC5g with Nichia 219B 3500K.

But Zebralight, beyond nearly perfecting the host, like most manufacturers, cares a lot about brightness, but unlike most, also deeply values runtime. Thought they have dipped their toes in the water of High CRI, they are still hedging with color temperature, and the driver seems to merely be tweaked between revisions. They replaced PWM with something not quite as bad, while Noctigon proved full constant current is achievable. If Noctigon hosts weren't such beasts, had models with less diameter and heft, I'd probably be less interested in Zebralight.


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## Connor (Jan 12, 2022)

chillinn said:


> If Noctigon hosts weren't such beasts, had models with less diameter and heft, I'd probably be less interested in Zebralight.



You can get e.g. the Emisar D4V2 (in between ZebraLight SC64 and SC600 size) with the Noctigon 9A+FET linear driver at no additional cost, you just need to drop Hank an email. With this driver the light is *almost* fully regulated, except for like the first 15 secs on turbo. ;-)


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## jon_slider (Jan 12, 2022)

chillinn said:


> Nichia 219B 3500K.


Bob_McBob builds beautiful Nichia Zebras


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## chillinn (Jan 19, 2022)

I enthusiastically approve.

I have a question. I think someone determined the SC5 series draws 5A in the brightest mode. Does anyone have a guess as to which mode draws 1A? And if so, can you think of a way to easily communicate which brightness mode that is? Thx.

edit: nevermind, I have it. @HKJ tests, std Eneloop gives 90min. at 1A, and on SC5c II @ZL, one mode has 90min. runtime, the middle H2 option, 236Lm. Except ZL probably used a Eneloop Pro for their tests, so while I think that default choice mode is closest to 1A, it draws a bit more. There might be a custom brightness that draws precisely 1A, which would be whatever custom mode provides 90mins of runtime at some stable brightness on a 1900mAh Eneloop.


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