# MADMAX sandwich complete assembly? Drop in Luxeon style Pill.



## dat2zip (Jul 24, 2002)

I starting to come up for air and am thinking of offering my MADMAX sandwich with Luxeon as a complete drop in mod for those that can't solder or do the final assembly needed to make a MADMAX flashlight.

This would drop in most 2AA flashlights as you all should be familiar with which ones I'm referring to.

If there is a large interest I could then think about buying the emitters and making the complete sandwich assembly for fellow CPF members.

Also, if the is someone else that would like to do the assembly and manage the list of names and money that would also be great since I have other projects I'm still working on.

Mod skill level: 0 (Anyone!)
Price: TBD
Availabilty: TBD

The board would be the MADMAX1674 running wide open (no trim pot option).

This is just a feeler to see how much interest there is.

If you want to see some pictures and get more info visit my web site at:
flashlight mod web page. 

Pictures of the boards can be found at:
Board images. 

Please disregard the first two. That board has been replaced by the ones in green.

WayneY


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## dat2zip (Jul 24, 2002)

Testing my re-direct email collection system.

Testing. Testing. Testing. Testing.


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## mc (Jul 25, 2002)

Hope something works out, sounds like a great idea, and I would be interested in a few.


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## Glow Bug (Jul 25, 2002)

Wayne,

Got my Madmax yesterday. Great work! I definately want at least 2 completed modules since I am not a proficent solderer. I will be gone until early next week so please don't leave me out if this is a go.

Ricky


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## sunspot (Jul 25, 2002)

Heck yes!!!!!


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## Starlight (Jul 25, 2002)

Wayne, please put me on your list for two.


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## ake (Jul 25, 2002)

I may be interested for a few too, depending on the price.

Ake


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## LiteFreek (Jul 25, 2002)

I would definately be interested in at least one, maybe more depending on the final price.

-The local LiteFreek


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## AndyJ (Jul 25, 2002)

Put me down for one.

AndyJ


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## Lantern Jack O. (Jul 27, 2002)

One for me.


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## Okie (Jul 28, 2002)

Too good to pass up!


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## bucken (Jul 28, 2002)

Me too! At least one.


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## Mrdi (Jul 28, 2002)

YOU BET!!


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## beamer (Jul 28, 2002)

Count me in.


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## Kill-O-Zap (Jul 29, 2002)

One here, please.


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## e=mc² (Jul 29, 2002)

Wayne, ever since I visited your site, I've been wanting one of these. So I guess this constitutes a "me too" as well.

e-


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## Spudman (Jul 29, 2002)

Interested here.


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## Mr. Blue (Jul 29, 2002)

ditto


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## treek13 (Jul 29, 2002)

Hey Wayne,
If I am following you correctly and you are saying that you could sell the complete drop-in modules for around $40 (12 + 28??), not only can I safely say I'd be interested in purchasing one but I can't imagine you would have much trouble selling a whole bunch of them. That seems to me to be very close to the price Lambda charged for his 'Ill Pills' (someone with a better memory please help) and he sold out everything he had unbelievably quickly. Also there are a lot of disappointed people who didn't get a chance to get one and many of those that did will still want one of yours also because that's the nature of the flashaholic. 

So if you are still considering doing this maybe you could figure out how many you need to sell to be able to do it at a fair price (especially one that is fair to you, after all it is alot of your time) and maybe start a sign-up or something.

Hope I haven't rambled too much,
Pat


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## Starlight (Jul 29, 2002)

Wayne, put me on your list for 2 drop in modules or 2 modules with mini-mag body, your choice. Also, put me on the list for the same with HD LS. Your prices are fine.

I would prefer the converter that has the flattest regulation.


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## Kill-O-Zap (Jul 29, 2002)

A low-dome emitter which is plenty good enough (I don't see too many complaints on LI's and blasters with LD) would only be ~$16 including the optics, plus the $12 for the converter, and and you're still under thirty bucks. I would urge Wayne to build in some profit so I don't have to feel so guilty taking his stuff. Just having to have soldered the leads on one of these tiny marvels, I can't imagine anyone soldering up an entire module pro-bono.


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## Zephyr (Jul 29, 2002)

I would be interested in one!!! Those LS Pills are excellent mods to put life back into any 2AA flaslight!


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## bucken (Jul 29, 2002)

I'm still interested in at least one module. Possibly more when the HD's are available.


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## Slick (Jul 29, 2002)

I'm more interested in the Badboy current regulator - the 500 or 700Mah purple that you mentioned in another thread..

I expect to begin working on these mods sometime a few weeks downd the road, so I will contact you via e-mail.


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## Lantern Jack O. (Jul 29, 2002)

I'm still in for one. Would prefer white HD, but white LD would be fine. Suggest Brinkman 2AA Legend (tailcap switch) if it is to be a completed mod w/flashlight included.

Doesn't matter to me whether the flashlight is included or not. Might be less overhead and up-front expense for you if no flashlight is included, but then again, you may be able to command a better price if you include the flashlights, purchasing them in volume and selling at market prices. 

I'd like to echo treek13's sentiments on this one. There's nothing wrong with making a profit from honest work. Suggest setting prices accordingly. Maybe just keep in mind that Arc LS seconds are $70 when available. From what I gather, your work is top-notch.


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## John Frederick (Jul 29, 2002)

Can someone post a link for this new guy where I can see more info on this? Thanks!


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## John Frederick (Jul 29, 2002)

Nevermind. I found the site using a search



Imagine that.


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## dat2zip (Jul 29, 2002)

John Frederick,

Thanks for the reminder. I updated the 1st post to include the link to my web pages for more info.

Board pictures can be seen at:
http://home.attbi.com/~theledguy/hobby/madmax/madmax_images.htm


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## dat2zip (Jul 30, 2002)

Here's the real question:

Is there enough interest for me to order material/parts and do the assembly of the sandwich or for that matter full flashlights?

I'm making this offer to CPF since the design was for CPF. But, if I cannot order sufficient quantities the price would be a lot higher that if I can order in larger bulk quantities.

I don't want to order bulk quantities and then get stuck eating the cost of goods if no one wants them.

-WayneY

I would like to hear your opinion and any concerns you may have. I believe I'm doing this as a favor for CPF.

So, Here's what I'm offering as possible complete assemblies.

1) MADMAX sandwich/pill. This module would be a complete self contained module that would drop into a 2AA flashlight and have a 1W luxeon LD emitter already attached and tested. No soldering or assembly required. Price: Estimated - Converter - $12.00, Emitter - TBD with NX-05 optics (Somewhere around $28??)

A 1W HD group buy could be done later when the HD becomes available

2) A complete flashlight mod'd with a MADMAX converter board and a Luxeon LED pre-installed in a flashlight. Probably the flashlight would ship without the batteries loaded, so, you would need to feed it batteries before use. Cost: Module price above plus the flashlight body. (~TBD)

3) Similar configurations but using the new constant current regulator called badboy. I could possibly start offering the yellow (400mA) or green (500mA) versions if there were was sufficient interest. I will need to order components from digikey and LEDs from Future and flashlight bodies from somewhere. Cost: Yellow-(TBD), green-(TBD). (Guestamate: Converter boards - Yellow-$15,Green-$17)

So, I could post them separately as group buys in the buy/sell or here.


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## Glow Bug (Aug 1, 2002)

Wayne,

I really hope you do these. I want at least two. Have you decided yet???


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Aug 1, 2002)

why not? Put me down for one


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## **DONOTDELETE** (Aug 1, 2002)

Ah'm in. BadBoy w/white LS, HD or LD, doesn't matter...if it's drop-in I can provide my own flashlight body.

Thanks!


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## Luff (Aug 1, 2002)

I'd like to get at least two of the 500 ma badboys ... but I'd prefer them as completed boards (with anode board) like the MADMAX you sold me. LS's are already on order and I want to make my own modifications. Your work is so professional, I expect I'll be in line for each of your creations from now on.


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## e=mc² (Aug 1, 2002)

Wayne, you can definitely count me in as well. For at least one, probably two.

e-


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## Mr. Blue (Aug 1, 2002)

ditto...but I qould like the whole kit and kaboodle


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## rawhide_clyde (Aug 1, 2002)

I'm in for at least one, maybe a couple of more if I've got some extra cash.
Stay Safe,
Clyde


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## dat2zip (Aug 1, 2002)

Status update.

Did I mention the game plan is a go!!!





I've ordered some LD for now. Just trying to get some pre-inventory going so I don't get swamped.

I should be able to start offering them to CPF members. I am still trying to determine the final price.

I've also update my web with some more info. Not a lot, but, I'm working on it.

http://home.attbi.com/~theledguy/hobby/flashlight_modifications.htm


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## Glow Bug (Aug 1, 2002)

Did I say thanks Wayne???...THANNNKS! Keep me on that list. When do you expect to start shipping these???

Ricky


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## dat2zip (Aug 1, 2002)

Assuming the bloody boob tube stays turned off...

Assuming the honey do list is empty.....

Assuming I am not going the a SF Giants game....

The remaining few picoseconds will be used to build the sandwiches.

(That should be....) *TONIGHT!!!*

-WayneY


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## Glow Bug (Aug 1, 2002)

Tell ya watt, eye will help u out this time.

1. I will come over and watch tv for you so you can concentrate on mo portant tings.

2. I will do ya chores that she assigns.

3. As much as I hate to, I'll have to take them there tickets and force myself to go watch that game for ya.

and 4. When I get back from the game, I'll take them sandwiches back home to eat.

That should help me...I mean you, out a lot....NO MORE EXCUSES!


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## leddite (Aug 1, 2002)

looks pretty cool! i'm interested as well...
i'd probably want at least 2, maybe 3!

have you determined price points yet?

also, as i'm not 100% familiar with this mod, details on what flashlight bodies this would best work with and any body mods would be appreciated!
(please say mini-maglite double AA




)

thanx!


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## dat2zip (Aug 1, 2002)

WOW!!!

Such a generous offer. Can you be here by 4PDT?


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## sunspot (Aug 1, 2002)

How about I send you my credit card and everytime you make an improvement you just send the product to me?


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## Glow Bug (Aug 1, 2002)

I'll just hop in my neutron time traveler...Be there shortly. 

Wish I could to see the Master at work. 

Congradulations on being involved with the Arc products. I know I will be buying more LSs now. Your work is very good.
I am really glad you are giving us the opportunity to GREATLY IMPROVE our lights to a much higher standard. These sandwiches are the best thing to ever happen to the Mini flashlights. I hope you will also make BadBoy sandwiches for our consumption in the future. Keep pushing the envelope;-)
Ricky


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## bucken (Aug 1, 2002)

I'm still in line for one drop-in pill... Will PayPal as soon as price is posted.

Please let us know when HD's will be available.
-bucken-


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## Roy (Aug 2, 2002)

Sign me up for three of the drop-in pills!!


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## mikep (Aug 2, 2002)

I always seem to be late on these things- I would be in for a sandwich.


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## dat2zip (Aug 2, 2002)

OK, I think I have the procedure down now. I ended up making 6 last night that are will probably be sold as scrap or seconds.

The next batch looks more promising. I've got the process down and should be able to keep up with demand now.

So, I'll post it over in the buy/sell section.

Here's the pricing:

MADMAX with 1W LD Luxeon - Tested. $30.00 + shipping.

Of the badboy modules. I'll be making the yellow version first. These are the safest and longest running of the three options. The three options are:

Yellow = Constant current 400mA.
Green = Constant current 500mA.
Violet = N.A. As a sandwich. Will be made only as full mod'd flashlight using an aluminum disc and requires tailcap switch. These will be available as Brinkmann Legend 2AA and minimag with colors being what I have available.

Please see the matrix or chart on my web site for exact configurations:
http://home.attbi.com/~theledguy/hobby/flashlight_modifications.htm

BADBOY Yellows - Sandwich module with 1W LD emitter fully tested = $35.00 + shipping.

Please also see my MADMAX boards for sale for details on paypal payments. 

The title in the buy/sell will be:

*Put your 2AA flashlight on steroids with a MADMAX or BADBOY sandwich!*

-WayneY


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## Xcandescent (Aug 2, 2002)

I'd be interested in a Madmax sandwich with LS 1W-HD, when that part becomes available.

-XCN-


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## brightnorm (Aug 3, 2002)

Wayne,

Please count me in for one (white) drop in. Also please charge me so that your profit is 20-25%

Brightnorm


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## pjenkins00 (Aug 4, 2002)

i would want one madmaxx drop in module preferably hd but ld is ok too. 

- Pete


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## John N (Aug 4, 2002)

Oops. I managed to totally miss this thread. Now that I'm catching up I'm very interested.

So, for a totally stupid question - what focuses the light? I don't see any optics on any of the pictures.
Do you use the MiniMag reflector? Do you just drill it out a bit?

Thanks,

-john


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## dat2zip (Aug 4, 2002)

John N,

In this mod, you remove the reflector that comes with the flashlight and replace it with the Luxeon optics.

The head and optics assembly press the module down which disconnects the board from the touching the inside lip turning the flashlight off. Turning the head by counter clockwise as in removing the head will allow the module to to be pressed up by the spring tailcap engaging the board to the inner lip turning the flashlight on.

No drilling or soldering required.

Tools needed: Fingers.




Time required: 30seconds to 2 minutes. Can be done during a commercial break.
Mod skill level: 1 (beginner)
Mod reversable: YES





-WayneY


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## im2smrt4u (Aug 4, 2002)

What kind of brightness should I expect? What kind of life? Can I use any other batteries than alkaline? Thanks!


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## dat2zip (Aug 4, 2002)

im2smrt4u,

Any Luxeon Mod if you don't have one is impressive in any form.

Both converters will safely run off any 2AA batteries. Alkaline, NICD, NIMH, or Lithium (1.5V).

For a small flashlight, my personal opinion is these are very bright lights. I think there are other regular flashlights like the Brinkmann LX or some of the surfires which are much brighter.

MADMAX with a fresh set of Good alkaline will produce anywhere from 240-325CD of light at the brightest spot.

BADBOY-Yellow will probably benchmark in somewhere less than that. It should be brighter than rated since the current through the LS is higher than what the data sheet recommends at 350mA.

I think I posted run times over at the buy sell.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000691;p=2 [/ 
-WayneY


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## Doug Meister (Aug 5, 2002)

What is the difference between the Madmax and the Badboy? Will either of these be a drop in into a Mini-Mag 2AA ????? Thankx
<font color=blue>*--Ðøug*



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## dat2zip (Aug 6, 2002)

Doug Meister,

drop in 2AA flashlight module = Sandwich. See the buy/sell for more details.

-WayneY


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## Mr. Blue (Aug 6, 2002)

What batteries will offer best performance? Will AA liths be ok?


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## Vikas Sontakke (Aug 6, 2002)

Have the instructions on how to install Madmax/Badboy in MagLite 2AA been posted? I have not seen a picture of completed sandwich which is supposed to replace the bi-pin bulb and the reflector with the sandwich/optics.

Does this look like Lambda pill or more like the Opalec Newbeam?

Thanks,
- Vikas


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## dat2zip (Aug 6, 2002)

> Originally posted by Geoff in Philly:
> *What batteries will offer best performance? Will AA liths be ok?*


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Battery preference is kinda up to the end user. You can use any AA style regular batteries including Alkaline, NICD, NIMH, 1.5V Lithium.

Vikas Sontakke,

The Installation instruction should be nearly identical to any drop in module such as the Opalec or the Lambda Ill Pill.

For most of you instructions will not be needed. I won't have anytime to post instructions till mid next week.

-WayneY


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## Lantern Jack O. (Aug 12, 2002)

I got MADMAX sandwich today, and I love it. LOTS of good, cool white light, and it doubles as a great hand warmer too! Now, who wants to make/sell a chopped 2 AA minimag tube that holds just 1 AA?


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## e=mc² (Aug 12, 2002)

Jack, have you tried it yet on just one cell? If so, what type of cell and how was the light output. I have ordered on of these and can't wait to get my hands on it. If it runs bright on one cell, I might have to take a trip to my local machinist's shop and have him rig me up something to run this puppy on a single cell. Maybe a modified Infinity tube with outside threading to accommodate the mag head. Just a thought at this point since I don't know how this will perform on just one cell. Let me know your findings, if you don't mind sharing them here.

e-


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## dat2zip (Aug 13, 2002)

The Installation Instructions are now online at:
MADMAX/BADBOY Sandwich Installation Instruction (with pictures!). 

WayneY


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## Glow Bug (Aug 13, 2002)

Got mine and am INNNpressed! Thanks Wayne!


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## Starlight (Aug 13, 2002)

Wayne, my sandwich arrived yesterday. Thank you very much. 

More info for your database: when the sandwich was installed, it would not light. I took it back apart, and the sandwich was very hot. I thought it might be shorting against the case, so I drilled out the end of the battery tube like lambda recommends. I put it back together again, and it works properly.


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## dat2zip (Aug 13, 2002)

Starlight,

What size drill did you use? Did you have to debur it after you drilled it.

It is a tight fit and the output pad area is very close to the perimeter and can short to the barrel. I would try the sandwich out and if you don't have any problems, great. Otherwise, I would like Starlight did recommend you drill out the top opening just a smidge to so that the output doesn't short to gnd.

This applies to both boards since both used similar layouts for the emitter side of the board.

Different manufacturers may also be slightly different so be careful with new flashlights that haven't already been tested. You can dry fit the module by not fully assembling it and then inspect the tolerance of the opening.

One word of caution. The LED is soldered on rather daintily. The LED leads are bent straight down and end soldered to the board. This is not a strong solder connection and the LED can shear off rather easily.

TIA

WayneY


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## Roy (Aug 13, 2002)

I received my Madmax Sandwitch yesterday. It went in with no problem whatsoever. I did find the assembly instructions this morning, so I now know what to do with the o-ring! On my photocell set-up the Madmax and the Ill Pill generated the same amount of mv! The beam pattern is VERY smooth with almost no decernable hotspot. Really loooks good in a dark room! If you can assemble a NewBeam you can assemble a Madmax Sandwitch.


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## dat2zip (Aug 13, 2002)

One other note:

The copper top side will oxidize and will need periodic cleaning of some form.

Also, I must appologize for the inconsistent not so clean copper. I had to strip off the epoxy soldermask on the one surface exposing the bare copper. Some boards stripped clean and a small percentage had residual ink. You may want to visually inspect these yourself when you get them and if you see any small green specks around the emitter on the copper surface, remove them with a exacto knife or something that can scrape off the paint spec. Two or more of these are sure death to the no light syndrome. Removing them fixes this problem.

I did a quickly test all the modules after the final assembly installing the LED. I did not verify that it was making a solid connection.

-WayneY


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## Starlight (Aug 13, 2002)

I posted this back in June:

"For those of you that have access to a variable speed 1/2" drill and drill bits, it takes about 3 minutes. Start with a 27/64", then 7/16", then 29/64", and finish with a 15/32". You end up with a .469" hole that is round and centered. The aluminum is soft enough and thin enough that you can hold the battery tube in one hand and drill with the other."

I didn't have to deburr, just ran the end of the tube on a wire wheel.


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## dat2zip (Aug 13, 2002)

Thanks Starlight for the information.

You debur'd the end of the tube, but, is there a bur on the inside where the board makes contact. In theory, both edges need to be debur'd with the inner one being more important to debur.

You shouldn't have to drill out more than about .015" to .020" more off the barrel hole.

I would think a drill 1/32 larger than the opening should do the trick.

The clearance is already .01". Doubling that should take up the tolerance of the board outer diameter of 0.55" and the inner barrel diameter of .570. The board can shift around the difference of 0.570" - 0.55" = 0.020".

At least that is my opinion... Remember, I'm not mechanically inclined more mechanically deficit




I count myself lucky still having 10 fingers and 10 toes.

The reason I recommend taking off as little as possible is to maximize the copper contact surface since it is both electrical and the heat sink contact for the LED to transfer heat to the barrel.

WayneY


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## Glow Bug (Aug 13, 2002)

> Originally posted by dat2zip:
> *Thanks Starlight for the information.
> 
> You debur'd the end of the tube, but, is there a bur on the inside where the board makes contact. In theory, both edges need to be debur'd with the inner one being more important to debur.
> ...


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">


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## Glow Bug (Aug 13, 2002)

> Originally posted by dat2zip:
> *
> At least that is my opinion... Remember, I'm not mechanically inclined more mechanically deficit
> 
> ...


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Well at least he is telling the truth about his fingers!


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## Roy (Aug 13, 2002)

I've heard of people being "all thumbs", but ...but...I'm at a loss here!


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## Glow Bug (Aug 13, 2002)

I always wanted to know the secret behind being able to hold on to those tiny circuits while he soldered em.


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## jabajet (Aug 13, 2002)

I installed my MadMax in a Brinkmann 2AA Legend with no problems. It seems a littel brighter and whiter than my "Ill Pill". The Brinkmann light is a little tougher to get the stock lamp assembly out of than the MiniMag.


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## hank (Aug 13, 2002)

Wayne, you say not to debur or drill too much so we "... maximize the copper contact surface since it is both electrical and the heat sink contact for the LED to transfer heat to the barrel."

Would you recommend trying a bit of conductive thermal paste at that contact? (I remember that some kinds of heat-sink thermal paste are electrically conductive.)

I'm going to have to see one before I am quite sure what gets drilled or deburred to make a gap, and what has to be in contact.


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## dat2zip (Aug 13, 2002)

In general of the 10 or so that I've built I've only seen one that is offset enough to short the output out. Of the remaining 9 other ones, I've seen no problem.

The one I haven't looked at but it seems persistent and always seems to be offset more than the others. It could be there is a larger blob of solder pushing on the barrel offseting the whole module and shorting the output out.

I haven't visually inspected them all very carefully but, the few I've spot checked I can see the copper output area and the isolated gap that separates the output to gnd showing at least the 10 mils of isolation gap.

I'd suggest to visually inspect yours after you get it. You will need to disable the LED when you insert the batteries by not screwing on the tailcap. I have small enough fingers to jam one up to press against the batteries and module to keep them from falling out so that I can look from the top side and view the LED and top copper board area.

For MADMAX and the BADBOY-400 (Yellow module) heat is not so much an issue.

Heat is more of an issue as we up the output current with the -500 (was green) and -666 (was vio) options.

I looked up and found one site that had conductive thermal grease, but, the more I think about the less I like the idea. I can imaging the module falling out every time you change the batteries and with that dust and dirt will accumulate and probably offset and gains the grease would have given you. 

It might be just a recommended thing to periodically clean the copper surface.

The next round will be tin plated copper and won't oxidize as much. Then again, the thermal properties of the tin lead plating won't be as good.

Anyone heard of spun carbon fibers. Suppose to excellent conductive and thermal properties. Maybe a small ring of this stuff would be the way to go. (Of course then you might never be able to turn if off).

-WayneY


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## Spudman (Aug 13, 2002)

I got my madmax today. It took about five minutes to complete the changeover. What a fantastic mod!




I'm not the "handiest" person around. For me, getting a gas grill to light is an accomplishment, yet I could handle this one. Wayne made it a very easy process. Thanks for letting me in on a DIY changeover. I want a badboy now.




Great, just great.
Gary


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## Lantern Jack O. (Aug 13, 2002)

> Originally posted by Edwood:
> *Jack, have you tried it yet on just one cell? If so, what type of cell and how was the light output. I have ordered on of these and can't wait to get my hands on it. If it runs bright on one cell, I might have to take a trip to my local machinist's shop and have him rig me up something to run this puppy on a single cell. Maybe a modified Infinity tube with outside threading to accommodate the mag head. Just a thought at this point since I don't know how this will perform on just one cell. Let me know your findings, if you don't mind sharing them here.
> 
> e-*


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Edwood, I did try it out with both a fresh lithium AA, and also a tired alk AA that measured 1.16V after resting. The light was suprisingly bright in both instances. I would say that the light on the single fresh lithium was still about 5x brighter than my Arc AAA 3.1 LE. Maybe more. Hard to say. I'll try and figure out a way to do a beam shot.

The way I tested this was to clip one ammeter lead to the flashlight's tail, and then used the other probe tip to contact the 1 AA I'd left in the flashlight. It's a little awkward holding on to this arrangement. Of course, you can always use the old tinfoil dummy battery trick too as long as the dummy battery is in the tail of the flashlight, not towards the head.

If you find someone who can make a shortened 1 AA minimag, I'd be interested in purchasing one.


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## mikep (Aug 14, 2002)

Got my MADMAX sandwich yesterday. This thing is fantastic!

Thanks Wayne!


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## hank (Aug 14, 2002)

>tin plated copper
Can you get gold plate? Most of the cost is in the plating process, not the metal; gold plates very nicely over copper, doesn't oxidize and conducts well.

>module falling out when changing batteries 

Hmmm, might we capture the module somehow -- like the standard Mag tailcap spring and spare bulb are held in? 

>conductive carbon fibers

Hmmm, layer in a flat sheet of carbon fiber fabric with all its little threads making a fuzz at the edge? But yeah, it could keep it from disconnecting too. A little flexible collar that would press when compressed but spring back when released? Have to be an alloy of some kind.

Just guessing here -- I have seen little strips of woven silvery stuff with some dark gray-black filler, used (in old 1xx Powerbooks) in between the metal keyboard tray and the metal on which everything else is mounted; I assumed they were there to make sure of good electrical contact. Some other dead laptops I've taken apart have a gray rubbery strip with a black center in the same place. Maybe someone makes conductive grommets out of some such stuff? or flexible conductive sheet stock from which little donut retaining rings could be punched?


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## dat2zip (Aug 14, 2002)

hank,

On the next revision the LED will be on a separate board and I added extra holes around the perimeter of the LED to add captive retainer wires or something. I'm thinking a short piece of insulated 28G wire soldered in these holes which are then bent over the top lip after inserting the module.

The wires need to be insultated so that they don't touch the sides and turn the light on. They also cannot be formed tight over the lip since the board needs to travel inward to turn the light off. This requires some slack in the bend over process but, should be easy to do.

I did one this way and it worked real well till I shoed a co-worker how easy it was to fall out. Forget it had the keepers and I ended up pushing it out rebending the keeper wires straight.

Gold?? Sure, that should be no-problem. The proto-house I get my proto FAB boards from don't allow me to deviate from the standard process.

In the production run we can specify anything we want. Might goto 2 oz copper instead of 1oz as well.

-WayneY


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## Kremer (Aug 14, 2002)

Good solution to keeping the pill module from falling out...

I have an Ill'Pill right now in a Brinkmann 2AA legend, I reused the retainer clip that held the stock lamp holder in position, it friction fits to the inside of the barrel and was very easy to reinstall, just drop the pill of your choice in the barrel, put the clip in after it, then put two AA's in backwards and use the flat end of the battery to push the clip up against the back of the pill, then turn the batteries around and pop the tailcap on. The wire clip holds the pill in place nicely and the twist on/off still works ( on both minimag and legend ) using the retainer clip. If you need to remove the pill, you'll need to place something over the emitter then use a pen or something to press it out the back of the tube, I used a bic pen with the end plug removed so the pen tube would press on the sides of the emitter and not the dome. Worked quite well. To make the clip easier to remove I compressed it with pliers a little so it doesn't fit so snugly in the barrel, it still holds the pill nicely, but is much easier to push out.


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## dat2zip (Aug 14, 2002)

Kremer,

I have some of those Brinkmanns. I'll check that out tonight. Great idea. Never thought about that. I don't recall a retainer clip in the Brinkman 2AA that I mod'd. That was some time ago and haven't done one recently.

I remember looking down the Brinkmann Legend 2 123 flashlight and saw a retainer clip on that one.

-WayneY


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## Kremer (Aug 15, 2002)

it isn't anything fancy, but works quite well.


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## MR Bulk (Aug 15, 2002)

Wayne,

On the Legend retaining clip removal process, here is what has worked well for me every time -- I found that if you use a thin screwdriver and push the "C" ring at a particular spot -- so it flips sideways in the tube -- making the two pivot points of the flipping action being the open split of the ring and the side directly opposite, the ring simply drops straight out (along with the bulb socket).


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## hotfoot (Aug 15, 2002)

> Originally posted by MR Bulk:
> *Wayne,
> 
> On the Legend retaining clip removal process, here is what has worked well for me every time -- I found that if you use a thin screwdriver and push the "C" ring at a particular spot -- so it flips sideways in the tube -- making the two pivot points of the flipping action being the open split of the ring and the side directly opposite, the ring simply drops straight out (along with the bulb socket).*


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Now, this is a man who really knows his Brinkmanns!


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## Vikas Sontakke (Aug 15, 2002)

I have wondered if there is a need to have a bulbous head on a typical LS flashlight. Can one trim the LS optics at the top so that it would consist of only the collimater diameter?

I like ARC AAA (or Solitaire) form factor. 

When using with LS/optiocs, tail cap can be thinner (no need to waste the room for spare bulb). The Pill is thinner than the battery tube diameter. The collimater tube has the diameter of the LED die. The reflector is either thrown away or is there just for the show.

Is there any technical reason why the head could not be flush with battery tube? Aesthetically, I would think it would look very nice.

- Vikas


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## dat2zip (Aug 15, 2002)

> Originally posted by MR Bulk:
> *Wayne,
> 
> On the Legend retaining clip removal process, here is what has worked well for me every time -- I found that if you use a thin screwdriver and push the "C" ring at a particular spot -- so it flips sideways in the tube -- making the two pivot points of the flipping action being the open split of the ring and the side directly opposite, the ring simply drops straight out (along with the bulb socket).*


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Well, wonders never cease to amaze me. Course if you saw how many thumbs I have it's a wonder I even get to work!


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## hank (Aug 17, 2002)

Got my module yesterday, and it works great in my old 2-AA Maglite. It comes on with about 1/32" movement of the lamp head, too easily - possibly I need a bit thicker O-ring in front of the LED so it pushes the module a bit farther back in the barrel when screwed down. Or I'll get a tailcap switch.

BRIGHT! 

I like your ideas for holding the module in. I was wondering if pushing a thin O-ring or something in behind the module in front of the battery might hold it in but it sounds like everyone has better ideas. Post'em!

IWhat are the limits on using these modules? A couple of weak NiMH and NiCD cells didn't light it up at all, but fairly used alkalines work fine; haven't checked voltage on the batteries yet.

Is there a top end safe voltage? I assume it's not smart to use it in a 3-AA light or use two 3.6v computer AA lithiums with it?

Ooh! post #100. I've bought about 1 light per 8 posts.


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## dat2zip (Aug 17, 2002)

hank,

Checking my records show you got a BADBOY sandwich.

It's possible that you got one that is squished and is too thin. Sorry, I've had lots of trouble controlling the thickness. Ideally, the thickness should be thicker than the plastic spacer that came out of the battery barrel. If the two boards are pressed together with no visible gap they are probably too close.

Why? The standard tailcap switch provides marginal pressure and works fine in the original configuration, but to keep the whole PCB pressed tightly against the inner lip requires additional pressure.

The Kroll tailcap switch has a stiffer and longer spring which is one way to solve that. You might try stretching out the tailcap spring to see if you can get more pressure.

I'm wondering if you measure the module board to board height and post what thickness your sandwich is.

BADBOY specifications are on my web site at:
http://home.attbi.com/~theledguy/hobby/flashlight_modifications.htm

You cannot use either module in a 3AA configuration. 

You can use MADMAX with lower input voltages like a single AA, CR2012, or other smaller batteries.

Assume the LED is 3.3V. Feed the converter any voltage lower than the LED. 0V - 3.3V for MADMAX and 1.7V - 3.3V for BADBOY.

So, a single 123 battery is OK. 2AA, 2C, 2D, 2AAA etc are fine.

-WayneY


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## hank (Aug 17, 2002)

OK -- not complaining mind you! Nobody takes this light away from me (grin). I'm just eager to notice anything that might help advance the design, then sign up for more. Talk about fast evolution, this is a kick to participate in.

I'll put the module and the original plastic spacer on the flatbed scanner next to a ruler, and mail you a picture, I'm not quite sure where I'm looking for a gap or squeezed spot. 

Could just be me -- I had taken the original Mag clear plastic bulb cover out and left it out. When I put that back in place, then your O-ring and clear plastic cone in on top of it, the little extra thickness pushes the module back and off, and leaves a good quarter inch of rotation in the 'off' position. 

Some plastic quickly wore off the clear plastic cone at the sharp circular edge that contacts the LED when turning the Mag head to 'off' - that shortened the total length a bit too. I may have had the LEd a bit off center, and the LEDs may vary in shape a bit too.


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## leddite (Aug 18, 2002)

enhancements...

i've had for years, a AA-maglite extras kit that has a rubber "cap" for the end of the light, and came with filters in orange, red, and clear... i generally use the red lense a lot for astronomy and keeping my eye dark adapted...

now i want more... nobody seems to sell them!

i also want to protect my arc-ls head, scratches are unacceptable to me, at this point. i want a similar type attachment, so that i can effectively put a "daylight" (as for cameras) over the thing. heck, there's a lot: arc-ls units should have "pre-threads" for dropping on filters or light shaping attachments. :>

thoughts? sources? HELP ME! :>


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## PsycoBob[Q2] (Aug 19, 2002)

I have interest in a 600-700mA badboy for my upcoming Legend-LX/5w white LS mod..... I'll contact you after I actually have the 5w, assuming I can afford the price-tag.

If possible, I'd like to use the reg-board to replace the smalldisk that normally acts as the holder for the bulb. The LX uses a spring-retaining collar inside the battery tube, that fits into a groove inside the tube- I can remmove it with a long-nosed icepick, or something. (I have tha parts to make a ZLT+, but I can't get them to work right.... tho the first one worked fine, for a while.


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## McGizmo (Aug 19, 2002)

Leddite,

This answer is also off topic but SureFire has hex rubber filters for their E series that fit the Arc LS. I bought the red filters as they were the least expensive. On the Arc LS I carry, I use one of these boots with a saphire crystal lens. The combo gives me anti roll, protects the collimator and the boot protects the front end from water intrusion.

- Don

Sorry Wayne....... Back to topic


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## leddite (Aug 20, 2002)

hey, that was on topic... at least for the maglite question :> since it's wayne's sammich for my maglite that now makes me need a filter :>
(the arc-ls was just bonus fodder)

thanx for the info! i'll look into it!

btw, love that SS hardware and tap/die x5 mod :>


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