# Jaxman E2 measurements (Nichia 219B, bargain high CRI 18650)



## maukka (Feb 26, 2016)

Edit 28.2.2016: The head can be removed from the battery tube. I just forgot to remove that sentence out of the review. 18350 battery tube can be used as I state at the end of the test._

Disclaimer: Jaxman E2 was supplied for review by HKEquipment.net at half price.
_






93 CRI 18650 flashlight for 25 bucks? Yes, please. The Jaxman E2 is not a lumen monster, but it has the highest CRI I've measured from a flashlight to date. 5400 Kelvins of pure white gloriousness.











*Manufacturer specifications*

* Battery type: 18650
* LED: Nichia 219B, Neutral or Warm white
* Color temperature: 5700/4000 K
* Body material: Aluminum
* Reflector: Orange peel texture
* Lens: Glass
* Waterproof: Yes, IPX-6
* Impact resistance: 2 m
* Switch type: Tail reverse clicky
* Battery protection: Battery polarity, low voltage warning
* Temperature regulation: Yes
* Pocket clip: No
* Tail stand: Yes
* Tripod threads: No
* USB rechargeable: No

* Length: 118 mm
* Width: 24,3 mm
* Weight: 75 g
* Price: $24.95 (http://www.hkequipment.net/product-p/je2.htm)

* Output levels: 3
* Mode memory: No
* Button lock: Not necessary, mechanical switch
* Direct access from off: Always starts on Low

Special modes:
* Strobe (7,5 Hz)
* SOS





Included in the box
* Jaxman E2 flashlight
* Lanyard
* Chinese specs/instructions





The body is the usual Chinese 18650 affair familiar to most flashlight enthusiast. Similar construction can be found from the BLF A6/Astrolux S1 and Convoy S2. On the Jaxman the head is stuck to the battery cylinder and cannot be removed, at least without force. *edit never mind, it was just really tight and came off*

The anodized aluminum body has a bluish grey tone to it. The finish and machining is good, save for one dent on the tailcap on my sample. The head has some shallow grooves for better heat dissipation, at least in theory. I would have liked a pocket clip too, but a 3rd party one can be found easily for a dollar.










Since the Jaxman and Convoy S2+ have compatible threads in both the head and the tail, the Jaxman's Nichia head is easy to fit to a Convoy shorty tube or just use the nice metallic tailcap switch of a colored S2+.

The UI is simple. Full press on the rubber tail clicky turns the light on and off, half press cycles through modes (Low, Medium, High, Strobe, SOS). There's no mode memory, and the light always starts at low. Moonlight mode is missing, and the low mode is quite bright at 14 lumens. Medium and high spacing is good though.





The Nichia 219B emitter was perfectly centered on my sample.





Spring in the head and tail, so button and flat tops are compatible. There's no low voltage cutoff, but the flashlight will blink when the battery voltage is low. Resting voltage after depleting the Eagtac 3500 mAh battery was 3,10 V.





Jaxman E2, Convoy S2+, Eagletac D25LC2, BLF X6, DQG Tiny 18650 4.

*Measurements*
Please note: lumen measurements are only rough estimates
My diy 30 cm integrating styrofoam sphere has been calibrated using a Fenix E05 on high with manufacturer’s claim of 85 lumens. Verified with an Olight S10 that has been measured with a Labsphere FS2 integrating sphere by valostore.fi. Results may be more inaccurate with especially throwy or floody lights.

For spectral information and CRI calculations I have an X-rite i1Pro spectrophotometer with HCFR for the plot and ArgyllCMS spotread.exe for the data. For runtime tests I use spotread.exe with a custom script and a i1Display Pro because it doesn’t require calibration every 30 minutes like the i1Pro.

Explanation of abbreviations
CCT = correlated color temperature, higher temperature means cooler (bluish)
CRI (Ra) = color rendering index consisting of 8 different colors (R1-R8), max value 100
CRI (R9) = color rendering index with deep red, usually difficult for led based light sources, max value 100
TLCI = television lighting consistency index, max value 100
CQS (Qa) = Proposed replacement for CRI, RMS average of 15 color samples
CRI2012 (Ra,2012) = Another proposed replacement for CRI, consists of 17 color samples
MCRI = Color rendering index based on the memory of colors or 9 familiar objects
x,y = coordinates on a CIE 1931 chart











*Spectral distribution (High)*





*Color rendering (High)*




Read more about color rendering indices here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...CRI-vs-alternatives-with-measurement-examples

Jaxman E2 beats the second highest CRI light I have measured with a good margin. Especially the output on the 470 nm region is significantly flatter.

For comparison:





*Beam and tint*




Beam has a hotspot angle of 15° and spill of 67°.










Tint and color temperature shift is relatively small in different areas of the beam. Corona around the hotspot is a bit warmer and the outer spill is cooler.





Tint in different output modes is very small.

*PWM*

PWM/pulsing is used on low and medium. Even though the output never drops to zero and the cycling frequency is rather high at 3900 hertz, it is still possible to see when looking directly at the light and moving either eyes or the light very rapidly. In use, only the quiet whine might be noticeable in total silence when listened closely.





Low





Medium





High





Strobe (7,5 Hz)

*Runtime and temperature (High)

*




The output is regulated and stays constant until the 1 hour 54 minute mark. After this there's a steady decline to 55 % until the low voltage warning blink starts at 2 h 9 min. There's no difference in output with different cells. So no use getting high current batteries for the E2.

Cooling affects the output, so there is some sort of regulation. The head gets to 65°C at 17 minutes and this is as hot as it gets. At this point the handle is at 59°C. Without cooling, the battery tube reaches 50°C at about 10 minutes. I consider this too hot to hold comfortably with bare hands. As the light cools, the output rises, but the difference is very small and not noticeable with the naked eye.





Temperature at 5 minutes. Heat transfer is good, with only a 7 degree difference between the head and the handle.





Temperature after the head has stabilized at 65°C at 17 minutes. Head/Handle DeltaT 7°C.

*Good/Bad

*+ Extremely high color fidelity
+ Compatible threads with the popular Convoy S2+ (18350 possible)
+ Cheap
+ Nice pure white tint
+ Does not overheat
+ Good output regulation
─ No moonlight mode
─ Special modes not hidden, always cycled
─ No mode memory or direct access
─ PWM/Pulsing is used on low and medium
─ Slight whine on medium
─ No pocket clip included


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## maukka (Feb 26, 2016)

Here's a color rendering comparison graph of most of the lights I've measured.


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## twistedraven (Feb 26, 2016)

Oh my goodness! I've never heard about any Nichia emitter that was around sunlight color temperature and had really high CRI to boot. I'll have to pick this one up just to try it out. That color temperature and CRI was what I was always after.


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## LessDark (Feb 27, 2016)

Thank you for the review!
A light with the Nichia 4000K and no mode memory, that's exactly what I've been looking for. 
It's just too bad the strobe modes are not hidden...
I still might have to try this thing since it's that cheap.


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## twistedraven (Feb 27, 2016)

Ordered mine from the same site. Hope I get one that's 93cri with 80 R9 as well-- but I wouldn't be able to tell even if I wanted to, hah. 

Will be interesting comparing the 219B SW45 tint against the 219B V1 SW57 tint. Do you have any pics comparing the tint and color rendering of the Eagletac against the Jaxman, Maukka?


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## evgeniy (Feb 27, 2016)

Where you find 4000 K version ? On site I see only 5700K .


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## evgeniy (Feb 27, 2016)

Hi mode is very hot for long use, middle mode is relatively low and use PWM.
Low cost is low cost. 8(


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## evgeniy (Feb 27, 2016)

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1601/10019029/3953106

Authentic JAXMAN E2 EDC LED Flashlight Nichia 219B LED / 5-mode / 351LM / 4000K / 1*18650 $16.00


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## twistedraven (Mar 12, 2016)

Finally got my neutral white (5700k) Jaxman E2 in today, and I find its tint to be astounding. 

I have a wealth of other high CRI flashlights to compare it to, and I don't think any are close to the E2's Nichia high color temperature 219B. The differences are especially apparent with wood tones.

My L3 Illumination's L11C with Nichia 219B at 4500k looks dirty and orange in comparison, and doesn't differentiate greens from browns as well as the Jaxman E2, and flesh tones look more copper-tanned than pinky-flesh as it would under the sun.

My Zebralight SC62D with Phillips Luxeon T at 5000k was previously my sunlight mimicker, but it comes off looking very green in comparison to the Jaxman E2. It still looks decently white next to the purer E2, though.

My Zebralight H600FD with XML2 sporting the easywhite technology at 5000k (closer to 4800k) also looks very yellow/green in comparison, not being able to differentiate browns from greens as well and other colors, as everything is veiled with a yellow tone.

Naturally, people looking for a more incandescent look with high color rendering can still loom in the 3-4.5k range-- the likes of which the 4500k 219B is still good at doing. Also, those who found the Luxeon T of the SC62D too cool in the spill will undoubtedly find the spill of the E2 neutral white to be even cooler and uninviting. The spill of the neutral white E2 is also my only potential gripe about its tint. I wish it was closer to the 5400k of the hotspot, which I find to be perfectly white. Needless to say, the Jaxman E2 is a must buy for those looking for the highest amount of color delineation and rendering ability from their light as if it were sunlight itself.

As far as build quality and feel, I find the light to be good enough. I wish the reverse clicky was a bit taller, but that's a nitpick. I also wish I could skip the strobe modes as well, but I'm glad it has the very inviting standard reverse clicky interface, where it always starts at low and subsequent half-presses up the output levels.

I can't tell that there's any PWM with the low and medium modes at all, so I find the PWM on this light all but a moot point-- in my experience anyways.


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## tops2 (Mar 29, 2016)

I got my neutral white (5700k) Jaxman E2 yesterday and love the tint on this thing.

I don't have a lot of experiences with different tints so I'll just describe what I notice.

The light is plenty bright to me. The white is more "premium white" to me similar to my Fenix E12. There's no yellowness and blueness at all. The colors are spectacular to me. All the colors seems very vivid. I just like shining this light to look at different objects in my home. I really should take this light outside too.

My Zebralight SC5w seems to give everything a yellow tinge in comparison.
My Olight S1 seems to give everything a green tinge in comparison.

The main thing I don't like the cycling through the strobe/beacon modes as I seem to get headachy if I look at it. There doesn't seem to be a way to turn it off.
The only other nitpicky thing is I wish the lanyard came in grey (to match the body) or some other color. Mine looks like an ugly salmon/peach color. 

Otherwise, the Jaxman E2 is a cheap way for me to experience my first high CRI light and it doesn't disappoint. The 4000k version is also pretty cheap and I'm tempted by it..but I'm not sure if I'll like the warmer tint as I like this current white tint.


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## twistedraven (Mar 29, 2016)

Somewhere on the internet (I think it was budget light forum), I read a post from a Jaxman representative saying that if you order from their website or one of their official resellers, you can leave a note during the order process to tell them to give you a version that doesn't have the strobe modes. I might order a second one just to not have the strobe modes. The tint of the neutral white version is so great and the cost is so low that I think it might be worth it.


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## tops2 (Mar 29, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> Somewhere on the internet (I think it was budget light forum), I read a post from a Jaxman representative saying that if you order from their website or one of their official resellers, you can leave a note during the order process to tell them to give you a version that doesn't have the strobe modes. I might order a second one just to not have the strobe modes. The tint of the neutral white version is so great and the cost is so low that I think it might be worth it.



Omg! I gotta look it up after work. Too bad there's no way for us to turn it off after the fact..


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## Mr. Tone (Mar 30, 2016)

Thanks for the review and measurements. That's a great bargain for a hi CRI light.


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## markr6 (Mar 30, 2016)

Thanks for the great info! What is the reset time? Since there's no memory, hopefully it doesn't suffer from a long reset time of 5+ seconds like my BLF A6.


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## twistedraven (Mar 30, 2016)

It's roughly 5-6 seconds.

Also, I'll go ahead and post this image again, since it does the Neutral White Jaxman E2 pretty good justice. The neutral white tint so far has been the king of skin-tone rendering to my eyes. I have not tried the warm version though.


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## tops2 (Mar 30, 2016)

Yeah, mine resets after about 5-6 seconds too.

Weird thing I noticed is I get pretty headachy after using this light for over a few minutes (and no, not on strobe mode). Not sure if it's the PWM or something else... Has anyone gotten headachy after using a flashlight?

I don't get this when I use my other lights..


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## twistedraven (Mar 30, 2016)

Which output mode are you using? Sometimes I tail stand it and bounce it off the ceiling and use it in low mode for a night light every now and then, and never had an issue with nausea or headaches.


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## tops2 (Mar 30, 2016)

Mostly the medium mode. Well, I'll use it the next few days and see. Maybe I'm just getting sick or stressed from work. [emoji23]


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## Tachead (Mar 30, 2016)

tops2 said:


> Mostly the medium mode. Well, I'll use it the next few days and see. Maybe I'm just getting sick or stressed from work. [emoji23]



It could be the PWM. It bothers many people in various ways. I personally wont buy any light that uses any PWM for this reason.


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## tops2 (Mar 31, 2016)

Tachead said:


> It could be the PWM. It bothers many people in various ways. I personally wont buy any light that uses any PWM for this reason.



I have only a small collection of lights, but I just tested my Thrunite TN12 2014, Olight S1, Fenix E12 and Zebralight SC5w for a few minutes each and I'm fine.
I'm guessing maybe its the way the PWM is on this light that affects me? As soon as I try again, my eyes just get fatigued quickly and I got headachy again..

Haha..oh well... Its only me though.. Otherwise I love the tint on the Jaxman!


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## Tachead (Mar 31, 2016)

tops2 said:


> I have only a small collection of lights, but I just tested my Thrunite TN12 2014, Olight S1, Fenix E12 and Zebralight SC5w for a few minutes each and I'm fine.
> I'm guessing maybe its the way the PWM is on this light that affects me? As soon as I try again, my eyes just get fatigued quickly and I got headachy again..
> 
> Haha..oh well... Its only me though.. Otherwise I love the tint on the Jaxman!



Yep, its probably the PWM. None of your other lights have any PWM(the SC5w has a bit of a pulsed current too though but, maybe not as bad). PWM/pulsed is basically like staring a very fast strobe light the whole time you use it. Its a poor way to regulate a flashlight and causes discomfort to many users including myself.


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## darkangel55555 (May 12, 2016)

Fantastic review, maukka. Extremely thorough, and the information provided here led me to buy one (pun unintended), and subsequently a Convoy for the tailcap. 

Thanks for your continuing work in expanding the knowledge of the community!


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## D6859 (Jul 31, 2016)

Thank you for the review Maukka!

My friend got us the 5700K versions, but it was too cool for our taste. I ordered the 4000K versions and gave the 5700K version for another friend. I really like the warm tint and HI CRI combination! I got mine from Fasttech for ~13€.


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## Wendee (Aug 3, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> [...]My L3 Illumination's L11C with Nichia 219B at 4500k looks dirty and orange in comparison, and doesn't differentiate greens from browns as well as the Jaxman E2, and flesh tones look more copper-tanned than pinky-flesh as it would under the sun.[...]



I received my 5700k E2 today and I agree! I really can't believe it. I bought a second L11C because I liked it so much (and a second Lumintop with Nichia) . I always preferred the L11C over my other lights (both NW and CW) but I like the E2 even better. I'm actually shocked, I never thought that would happen oo: 

I have four other Nichia 219B lights but when comparing them to the E2 the difference is like night and day. Especially shining on an orange HomeDepot bucket next to a red gas can (in the garage). With the other Nichia lights the colors don't look *that *different from each other (orange from red) but with the E2, "wow"! Really unbelievable! I thought my L11C was the "best" color rendition I would ever find (until today). Is it just because the E2 has a cooler (pure white) tint, maybe? Would the other E2 with the 4000k LED still be better than my L11C or are they the same LED? I should research this, I guess.:thinking:

I think for middle of the night navigation (when I'm half asleep) the more mellow "yellow" tint of my L11C might be easier on my eyes than the brilliant white E2 but other than that, I think I would use the E2 more. Oh, and of course the L11C has firefly and moonlight mode. 

I don't have a Nichia 219C flashlight yet (I think they're around 5000k?). Does anyone have both the Jaxman E2 5700k and a Nichia 219C flashlight? If so, is the 219C as nice?

Are there any other flashlights with the same LED as the E2 (Nichia 219B 5700k)?


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## twistedraven (Aug 3, 2016)

Might be partly to do with the LEd in the Jaxman, the 4000k version might be great as well. On the other hand, I think it's because it's closer to a sunlight type white and is magenta tinted, making it the pinkish light I've seen (in a good way), which would romanticize anything wood, dirt, or skin.

I have a Manker S41 using 4 219Bs at 5000k and 90+ CRI, but I don't like the tint as much as the warmer 4500k 219B or my Jaxman E2, because the tint is on the greener side of things.

For night accustomed eyes, I can see the 4500k being really good at low output levels, as the Jaxman might look a little cool in comparison at lower outputs, but it is quite easy to get accustomed to it, and the eyes white balance to it rather quickly.


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## Wendee (Aug 3, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> Might be partly to do with the LEd in the Jaxman, the 4000k version might be great as well. On the other hand, I think it's because it's closer to a sunlight type white and is magenta tinted, making it the pinkish light I've seen (in a good way), which would romanticize anything wood, dirt, or skin.
> 
> I have a Manker S41 using 4 219Bs at 5000k and 90+ CRI, but I don't like the tint as much as the warmer 4500k 219B or my Jaxman E2, because the tint is on the greener side of things.
> 
> For night accustomed eyes, I can see the 4500k being really good at low output levels, as the Jaxman might look a little cool in comparison at lower outputs, but it is quite easy to get accustomed to it, and the eyes white balance to it rather quickly.



I just checked GearBest and they no longer have the 4000k version in stock.  

Yes, I've seen the Manker S41 thread and between the green tint and the QC issues I read about, I think I'll pass on that light. 

Funny that I'm more excited about this $14.00 Jaxman E2 than I am about more expensive lights I've received recently. It's the only flashlight I have where I have that "sunlight in my hand" feeling. If the 5000k Nichia 219C is like this, I'll save up for the triple 219C light I've seen. Before today, I thought a triple 219B 4500k would be the best. 

Yes, I could probably get used to the cooler tint with dark adapted eyes (when half asleep). I wish the E2 had a firefly mode so I could test that theory. Oh well. The only thing that bothers me on this light is having to cycle through the disco modes. For the beautiful light the E2 puts out, it's worth having to cycle through them but I still wish they weren't there.

I think I have a new favourite light, assuming the PWM doesn't affect me negatively (so far so good). No firefly or moonlight, no memory, 350 lumens max using 18650 battery, disco modes aren't hidden, PWM, yet I absolutely _love _this flashlight! I must be a "tint snob" (I think that's the definition?).


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## MAD777 (Aug 3, 2016)

I just put in my order for the 5700K NICHIA E2. Maukka, your excellent & trustworthy reviews get me every time. LOL


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## staticx57 (Aug 5, 2016)

You might consider going over to mountain electronics and buying the moonlight special driver. It should be exactly what you are looking for. There are tons of preset options for mode and brightness groups or you can have Richard set custom brightness levels. Or you can get it with the BLF A6 firmware which is even more powerful with hidden strobes battery check level mode bike mode turbo etc. just have him remove 3 7135 chips as 2amps is about what a 219b is good for. 

It it should be really simple to swap drivers as it is held in with just a retaining ring and you only need to unsolder 2 wires and solder them back or the new driver, screw the retaining ring back on and you're done. Plus modding your own lights is fun.


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## evgeniy (Sep 14, 2016)

I received 2 Jaxman E2 and measure color temp., (by RAW shots + Photoshop).

Jaxman E2 warm/newtral "4000K" (max. mode) : 4050 auto , 3950-4050 (manual)
Jaxman E2 daylight/cold "5700K" (max. mode) : 5600 auto , 5550-5650 (manual)
Zebralight H600FC (max. mode) : 3850-3900 auto , 3800-3090 (manual).

Conclusion: 4000-4050K and 5600К, 
Warm white Jaxman E2 works well in tandem with Zebralight H600FC.
Unfortunately, I can't test now, how works daylight/cold Jaxman E2 in tandem with H600FD, but will be continue few weeks later.


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## Wendee (Sep 28, 2016)

evgeniy said:


> I received 2 Jaxman E2 and measure color temp., (by RAW shots + Photoshop).
> 
> Jaxman E2 warm/newtral "4000K" (max. mode) : 4050 auto , 3950-4050 (manual)
> Jaxman E2 daylight/cold "5700K" (max. mode) : 5600 auto , 5550-5650 (manual)
> ...



Really? I have a ZL H603C (4000k, hi CRI mule). I imagine it would work well with the 4000k Jaxman.

I have the 5700k jaxman E2 and I don't think it would work well with my headlamp. I think the headlamp would make the jaxman look very cold and the jaxman would make the headlamp look too warm. I'll check GearBest again to see if they have the 4000k Jaxman back in stock yet. 

I do have a 4000k BLF A6 coming in the mail. It would work well with my 4000k headlamp but it's not hi CRI. :mecry:


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## Bullzeyebill (Oct 24, 2016)

Moving this to Flashlight Reviews.

Bill


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## dubliftment (Oct 30, 2016)

I put a moonlight special driver from mountain electronics into the jaxman and this made it a very versatile, well usable flashlight. thanks, Richard.


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## maukka (Oct 31, 2016)

That's a good mod, since the stock driver with its blinkies is annoying. I read that you can order the light from Jaxman's Aliexpress store without them though.


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## dubliftment (Oct 31, 2016)

Yeah, I also read that AFTER the ordering... Nevertheless I would have gone with the Moonlight Special Driver anyway, because it has a real low moonlight mode which is so low that it compares with the lowest or second lowest mode of some Zebralight (like 0,03-0,05 Lumens). It is really nice for night adopted eyes. second, I have a battery indicator and a bike mode (well hidden, though) and 5 well spaced modes for general use. Better than the 3-mode-setting that fasttech is offering as an alternative.


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## StandardBattery (Nov 6, 2016)

dubliftment said:


> I put a moonlight special driver from mountain electronics into the jaxman and this made it a very versatile, well usable flashlight. thanks, Richard.


This does sound interesting, I hate the stock driver. I'm not going to EDC this light though, I only bought it for the LEDs for specific uses so I might live with it.


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## lumen aeternum (Nov 23, 2016)

evgeniy said:


> https://www.fasttech.com/products/1601/10019029/3953106
> 
> Authentic JAXMAN E2 EDC LED Flashlight Nichia 219B LED / 5-mode / 351LM / 4000K / 1*18650 $16.00



Site has half a dozen variants of E2 or E3. What's the color temp of each ? it just says white, warm, etc.

Are there comparison photos of the variants anywhere?


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## noboneshotdog (Jun 24, 2017)

I purchased and received this light recently just to see what Nichia 5700 high CRI was all about. 

To be 100% honest the 5700 is just a bit to cool color temp for me. I guess I enjoy warmer temps these days. 

I would not classify this as necessary c/w, just cooler than what appeals to me anymore. 

This was my first Nichia purchase. Wonder what cheap Nichia light I can buy next? Want to purchase some cheapies before taking the plunge and committing to a HDS or something similar and not loving the tint.


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## Modernflame (Jun 24, 2017)

noboneshotdog said:


> I purchased and received this light recently just to see what Nichia 5700 high CRI was all about.
> 
> To be 100% honest the 5700 is just a bit to cool color temp for me. I guess I enjoy warmer temps these days.
> 
> ...



Verdict? I was very tempted by the hi cri 5700K version of the HDS, but I'm still on the fence about this emitter. I have enough CW lights to satisfy the need but I truly enjoy the warmer beam tints. I think I could live with 5700K if the CRI were near perfect, and this Jaxman might be just the right low cost experiment.


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## noboneshotdog (Jun 24, 2017)

Modernflame said:


> Verdict? I was very tempted by the hi cri 5700K version of the HDS, but I'm still on the fence about this emitter. I have enough CW lights to satisfy the need but I truly enjoy the warmer beam tints. I think I could live with 5700K if the CRI were near perfect, and this Jaxman might be just the right low cost experiment.



It's worth a try for the price. It is 219c not 219b on the HDS though. The Jaxman is 219b. I haven't purchased a light with the 5700 219c yet.


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## jon_slider (Jul 5, 2017)

here is some idea of the tint difference between the N219b 5700k


maukka said:


>



and N219c 5700k (sm573)


maukka said:


>



for comparison here is a Low CRI XP-G2 6000k. Notice the tint is above the black line, into the green tint zone, similar to the N219c


maukka said:


>



The N219b is more pink, less green, than the N219c and the XP-G2

bear in mind the Jaxman and the HDS both use pulsed power (PWM like)

Regarding 5700k CCT, that is best suited for someone that needs 200+ lumens during the day, and whose eyes are sunlight adapted. 5700k would not be my choice for a light used at night, below 200 lumens, when eyes are adapted to lower CCT. 

I prefer 4000k indoors in the evening, but would not use it to work on a car during the day.


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## hatman (Jul 9, 2017)

jon_slider said:


> here is some idea of the tint difference between the N219b 5700k
> 
> 
> and N219c 5700k (sm573)
> ...



Interesting -- what do you prefer outdoors at night?


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## jon_slider (Jul 9, 2017)

hatman said:


> Interesting -- what do you prefer outdoors at night?



depends on distance and brightness needs, also depends on how long I need the light to stay on
try to define your anticipated use scenario.. e.g. walking the dog, vs sitting around the bbq... different lights have different strong suits

I dont do any night hiking, WoodsWalker does, and has a lot of posts about the lights he likes for that, check his threads for more ideas

Cool White is brighter, and will reach farther than High CRI 4500k Neutral White, but Cool White makes bbq food look wrong, and you can't tell how cooked the meat is, cause you can't see reds.

to shine across a football field with 1000 lumens, the typical cool white offerings make sense, so long as color rendering or Tint preferences are not a priority
e.g., to see the black dog 50 yards away, I don't care if its slightly green or slightly pink, I just want to spot a large moving mammal with the brightest light I can muster. That means I also will be wanting a battery that can deliver 1000 lumens, which generally speaking means 18650, like in the Jaxman this thread is about. But the Jaxman maxes out at 300 lumens.. fine within 5 yard range, but definitely will not work as well to spot a dog at 50 yards.


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