# EX10 (1xCR123A) and D10 (1xAA) Part 4



## Sigman (Jul 1, 2008)

...continued from Part 3.


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## AardvarkSagus (Jul 1, 2008)

Dang, Part 4? We must like these lights a little to get this far in so little time.


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## jasonvk77 (Jul 1, 2008)

How long will it take to get my EX10 shipped in Australia?:candle:


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## Robocop (Jul 1, 2008)

I was thinking the exact same thing....never seen a thread grow this fast.

Fenix must be doing something right however the dealer has much to do with the popularity as well as the makers.

I am planning on purchasing one of each of these new models however have a question for any who own one already....Not that these would need modding however I like tinkering with all of my lights. Has anyone attempted to remove the internals? I notice the slotted ring can be tightened by hand from previous posts and I am curious if removed will it allow access to the internals?

We all know someone will be experimenting with different reflectors and circuit mods or maybe even swapping emitters...so are these units potted tight or can they be opened?


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## Haz (Jul 1, 2008)

Robocop said:


> Fenix must be doing something right however the dealer has much to do with the popularity as well as the makers.


 
I guess it's more to do with 4sevens and Nitecore, since Fenix didn't make this light


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## PhantomPhoton (Jul 1, 2008)

psssst! Robo, check out #8, #9, & #10. 



> * 1.* 4sevens is building a new store to accommodate the new products
> *2.* They are on the fenix-store web site so early testers can access them
> *3.* They ARE NOT headlamps
> *4.* Production is well underway
> ...



I think a lot of people having a lot of confidence in 4Sevens is a big reason for the popularity . Now I'm just waiting for the 18650 version.


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## Robocop (Jul 1, 2008)

Yes I do know this is not a Fenix light however even with a True Fenix light the dealer is one of the biggest reasons I support Fenix. Regardless of the maker 4Sevens is a great dealer to do business with and it seems anything he offers does very well.

When I said Fenix must be doing something right I was speaking of 4sevens....I often forget he is not the maker and simply a dealer. Usually when I think of Fenix I think of the Fenix store and 4Sevens....just a habit as he is the only dealer I have purchased this brand from.


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## Ty_Bower (Jul 1, 2008)

Dumb question... what color are your O rings? My EX10 has a translucent white one at the head, and a red one on the piston. In my "spare parts" bag, I received one extra of each color.


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## carrot (Jul 1, 2008)

Ty_Bower said:


> Dumb question... what color are your O rings? My EX10 has a translucent white one at the head, and a red one on the piston. In my "spare parts" bag, I received one extra of each color.



Same here.


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## FRANKVZ (Jul 1, 2008)

Mine are both red as are my spares. Mine is a D10 though.


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## BillMPL (Jul 1, 2008)

These lights look great, but the main reason I went ahead and ordered one is because David is behind them. This assures me of a quality light with outstanding support.


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## m16a (Jul 1, 2008)

Well, I've had a night to use the light, and my thoughts are still the same, AMAZING! The low is perfect for a night light, didn't hurt my eyes at all, but dang after waking did it seem bright..:laughing: My D10 has a slight high pitched whine when the bezel is fully engaged and the light is on high. Its barely audible unless the place is silent or the light is next to your ear, I'm assuming thats not a problem, since other lights do that. I've already chapped my thumb and index fingers on both hands messing around with the light, meaning the knurling is great. Soaking wet, it won't move it your hand. In just a few minutes, I will run a brief water resistance test(nothing big, just a cup of water for a few minutes) and post results. So after day one with the light, still awesome! Nitecore and 4-7's, what an amazing light!:twothumbs


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## SCD (Jul 1, 2008)

Hey all.........

Has anybody noticed that the exact same interface is available while in tactical/momentary mode? 

While in momentary press the piston till you get your user setting(memory/last mode) but not hard enough force it to max. I assume you have to hold it in this position for more than .5 second in order to override forced max. Once this time has passed you can now fully press the piston and the light will begin to ramp, let off the piston ever so slightly--less than a 1/64"-- then back to full press and the light will begin to ramp back down.

You can also get to min/max(while in momentary) using the same techniques as explained in four seven's video. Say your on min and you depress the piston(wait the .5)----same small click and hold will get you to max instantly. If at max a quick triple click will get you to low.

The trick is to barely come off full press(in momentary) for the switching/ramping to occur. Once you get the "feel" of this very short press it really becomes quite easy.

Give it a try


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## ruriimasu (Jul 1, 2008)

my D10's status is now 'shipped'


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## 9x23 (Jul 1, 2008)

Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning. After about 10 minutes the inside of the lense started to fog over so I took it out of the water. Shortly thereafter the reflector started to fog as well too. That was about 2 hours ago, and the water is still there but beading up a bit on the reflector and still fogged on the interior of the lense. I examined the seal and it appeared to be fine, but there obviously is a leak. BTW the light still works just fine. I guess I should contact 4sevens when I get home this evening........

9x23


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## Sgt. LED (Jul 1, 2008)

I took a shower with the EX10 and it did fine. I figure the shower simulates a super downpour good enough. Never been too concerned about full dunking, as long as the shower test is good I have faith in the light's ability. It sucks yours got water in it! Which do you have 123 or AA? Was it on high and warm when it went in? Perhaps it was only condensation? What was the water temp? 

Another reason to get the 123 version! If it gets water in the bezel you can open it yourself and dry it out.


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## BabyDoc (Jul 1, 2008)

9x23 said:


> Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning. After about 10 minutes the inside of the lense started to fog over so I took it out of the water. Shortly thereafter the reflector started to fog as well too. That was about 2 hours ago, and the water is still there but beading up a bit on the reflector and still fogged on the interior of the lense. I examined the seal and it appeared to be fine, but there obviously is a leak. BTW the light still works just fine. I guess I should contact 4sevens when I get home this evening........
> 
> 9x23


 
Had you greased the O-rings real well before you subjected the light to your water test?


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## michelkenny (Jul 1, 2008)

Sgt. LED said:


> I took a shower with the EX10



If only everyone loved their light as much as Sgt LED


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## 4sevens (Jul 1, 2008)

9x23 said:


> Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning. After about 10 minutes the inside of the lense started to fog over so I took it out of the water. Shortly thereafter the reflector started to fog as well too. That was about 2 hours ago, and the water is still there but beading up a bit on the reflector and still fogged on the interior of the lense. I examined the seal and it appeared to be fine, but there obviously is a leak. BTW the light still works just fine. I guess I should contact 4sevens when I get home this evening........
> 9x23


No problem. Email us at [email protected] for a replacement. We need to look into your unit. Question... did you have it in hot or cold water?
Rapidly quickly switching between the two while the light is underwater will 
cause a vacuum effect. (cold air is more dense than hot air)


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## streetmaster (Jul 1, 2008)

Sgt. LED said:


> Another reason to get the 123 version! If it gets water in the bezel you can open it yourself and dry it out.


I agree 100%! There are many reasons to choose the EX10. The easy open bezel, not to mention the cool stainless steel. And longer burn time and a bit more brightness as reported by ppl who already have theirs.


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## Sgt. LED (Jul 1, 2008)




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## streetmaster (Jul 1, 2008)

Is IPX8 supposed to be dunkable? Or is it just splash-proof?

edit: ok, thanks Sarge


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## Sgt. LED (Jul 1, 2008)

Dunkable +


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## WadeF (Jul 1, 2008)

SCD said:


> Hey all.........
> 
> Has anybody noticed that the exact same interface is available while in tactical/momentary mode?


 
Yup, if you're skillful enough with the clicking you can work the smart mode while in the tactical/momentary mode. If you are in tactical mode, and say the light is set to low (less than max), from off just push the piston in all the way, a hard press and hold, the light will go to MAX.


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## TOTC (Jul 1, 2008)

9x23 said:


> Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet?


Yep... (from part 3 thread)


TOTC said:


> To satisfy my own curiosity, I did a submersion test with my D10. I submerged it in about 6 inches of water in the sink and let it sit for 15 minutes. No water got in at any point.
> 
> I know that's not a very tough submersion test, but it's good enough for me. I'm never taking this thing swimming: I just wanted to know it could survive a drop into shallow water or nasty weather.


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 1, 2008)

The only wetness my D10 or EX10 almost saw was when I darn near p*ssed myself when I saw how nice they looked.


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## russwm (Jul 1, 2008)

Sgt. LED said:


> I took a shower with the EX10



As long as we are making confessions, I watched Cinemax with my D10.:naughty:


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## abvidledUK (Jul 1, 2008)

9x23 said:


> Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning.



But why ?


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## Marduke (Jul 1, 2008)

9x23 said:


> Has anyone else done a water immersion test yet? I received my lights yesterday and after examining the light and playing with the interface for hours, I decided to do a quick water immersion test this morning. After about 10 minutes the inside of the lense started to fog over so I took it out of the water. Shortly thereafter the reflector started to fog as well too. That was about 2 hours ago, and the water is still there but beading up a bit on the reflector and still fogged on the interior of the lense. I examined the seal and it appeared to be fine, but there obviously is a leak. BTW the light still works just fine. I guess I should contact 4sevens when I get home this evening........
> 
> 9x23



Sounds like a temperature difference might have been the culprit.


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## rayman (Jul 1, 2008)

Does the Fenix White Diffuser Tip fit on the EX10?

rayman


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## orcinus (Jul 1, 2008)

jasonvk77 said:


> How long will it take to get my EX10 shipped in Australia?:candle:



I'm in the same boat over here... Seems we'll get to thread #5 before i get my paws on the D10.

The Dosun and a few Fenixes i've ordered have been on their way for two weeks, there's still no sign of the LF5XT i've ordered being shipped and the D10 has just began its long and arduous way toward me. I want my tooooys... waaaaaaaaaaaah! :mecry:


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## matrixshaman (Jul 1, 2008)

Robocop said:


> I was thinking the exact same thing....never seen a thread grow this fast.
> 
> Fenix must be doing something right however the dealer has much to do with the popularity as well as the makers.
> 
> ...



I'm sure it was stated that the EX10 can be fully disassembled easily - not sure if the actual LED is potted but I think a look through the first pics 4sevens posted of the internals would let you know the answer to that. The D10 needs a special tool to remove the bezel.


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## shadeone (Jul 1, 2008)

anyone else think a 1xAAA light done by Nitecore with the same knurling and build quality as the PD series, with a comparable price to the fenix E01 would be an instant hit?

shade


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## LED-holic (Jul 1, 2008)

shadeone said:


> anyone else think a 1xAAA light done by Nitecore with the same knurling and build quality as the PD series, with a comparable price to the fenix E01 would be an instant hit?
> 
> shade


Comparable price? That would be amazingly hard to do I would think.

But a 1xAAA light, same UI / knurling / build quality would be a hit, regardless of price, imho.


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## kaichu dento (Jul 1, 2008)

It most definitely would and I would use them as gifts for all my family and friends!


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 1, 2008)

shadeone said:


> anyone else think a 1xAAA light done by Nitecore with the same knurling and build quality as the PD series, with a comparable price to the fenix E01 would be an instant hit?
> 
> shade



I've been asking since I've heard of the Smart-PD that NiteCore make a 1 x AAA version. Don't count on an E01 price. I think the price of a 1 x AAA version similar to the price of the D10 would be more than fair.


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## tricker (Jul 1, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> I've been asking since I've heard of the Smart-PD that NiteCore make a 1 x AAA version. Don't count on an E01 price. I think the price of a 1 x AAA version similar to the price of the D10 would be more than fair.



as long as its brighter than an lod q4 on li-ion.....btw TIN do you have one of these lights and possibly one of those amazing graphs coming?


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 1, 2008)

tricker said:


> as long as its brighter than an lod q4 on li-ion.....btw TIN do you have one of these lights and possibly one of those amazing graphs coming?



You're late to the show. I started a reviews thread last night. Check in the LED forum, unless the MODS have already moved it to the Reviews section.


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## tricker (Jul 1, 2008)

...with the dozens of threads about this i guess i got lost....and i just woke up


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## Watchguy (Jul 1, 2008)

Anyone know what would work for a holster for a D10. And is there such a thing as a holster with a clip on it?


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## digitaleos (Jul 1, 2008)

Watchguy said:


> Anyone know what would work for a holster for a D10. And is there such a thing as a holster with a clip on it?


 

You could try this http://www.brightguy.com/products/Ripoff_Holster_CO150.php .

Chris


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## WadeF (Jul 1, 2008)

digitaleos said:


> You could try this http://www.brightguy.com/products/Ripoff_Holster_CO150.php .
> 
> Chris


 
That holster is for a 2 cell lights, the little D10 would drop down into the dark abyss of that holster.


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## Paul6ppca (Jul 1, 2008)

Mine says delivered!! I guess I wont be the last onr of the preorder to get thiers,maybe next to last.


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## Dead_Nuts (Jul 1, 2008)

I used my EX10 to recon the backyard last night and found that the Cree ring is hardly noticeable in actual use. The UI is easy to master in the "field" and works well for me overall. I'll say it again -- this light is fantastic for the cost of it.

9x23: Does your username have anything to do with shooting Major in IPSC?


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## olrac (Jul 1, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> I'm sure it was stated that the EX10 can be fully disassembled easily - not sure if the actual LED is potted but I think a look through the first pics 4sevens posted of the internals would let you know the answer to that. The D10 needs a special tool to remove the bezel.



The EX10 is going to be an extremely easy tight to change the emitters the PCB is in place with Thermal grease not epoxy. In the next day or two I will be installing an R2WC that I got from Endeavour. I was going to mill the tail for a trit but I think I will wait to see what 47's offers.


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## __philippe (Jul 1, 2008)

Watchguy said:


> Anyone know what would work for a holster for a D10. And is there such a thing as a holster with a clip on it?


 
Kydex holster, anyone ?

http://www.vehicletech.co.kr/front/...number=342&offset=0&page=1&search_key=&search=

Litemania offers the Jet-Beam specific holster above.

I reckon it won't be long before appropriate D10 and EX10 holsters appear by magic...

Cheers,

__philippe


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## Chaz (Jul 1, 2008)

SCD said:


> Hey all.........
> 
> Has anybody noticed that the exact same interface is available while in tactical/momentary mode?



Yes, I did notice that also. It seems that tightening the head actually forces the momentary mode but holds it there so that the light stays on. From that point a forceful push operates the switch. So if you are able to maintain the pressure in momentary mode to keep the light on, the switching would probably be the same as when the light is twisted on. It is hard to hold the momentary pressure exactly, and I get somewhat random results when operating the switch from there.


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## jag-engr (Jul 1, 2008)

4sevens,

You can't tell us that piston drives with tritium inserts are on the way and not give us more info!:tsk:

When will the Piston Drives with the Tritium Inserts be available?

Do you have an estimate on the cost, yet?

Will they be available as a seperate item only, or will it be possible to buy the light with them already installed?

Inquiring minds want to know!

I just ordered an EX10 at lunch and I can't wait to get it.

Thanks,

jag-engr


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## digitaleos (Jul 1, 2008)

Double post.


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## digitaleos (Jul 1, 2008)

WadeF said:


> That holster is for a 2 cell lights, the little D10 would drop down into the dark abyss of that holster.


 

OK then Wade, how about this one? http://www.brightguy.com/products/Ripoff_Holster_CO192.php I currently have this one and use it with my Novatacs, there is room to put a spare cr123 horizontally on the bottom and still fit the light. :nana:

Chris


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## Jarl (Jul 1, 2008)

tricker said:


> as long as its brighter than an lod q4 on li-ion.....



Very few lights are actually brighter than an L0D on a li-ion.


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## Paul6ppca (Jul 1, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Mine says delivered!! I guess I wont be the last one of the preorder to get thiers,maybe next to last.


I guess delivered means something else to the stupid USPS:thumbsdow! I got home and no light:thumbsdow.Im hoping its not lost or worse,Ill give it one more day then ill email the Fenix store. Crossing my fingers.

I guess i will be the last one to get their pre order
Definitely not the Fenix Stores fault.

I'm bummed!


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## Ilikeshinythings (Jul 1, 2008)

D10 and E01 are on their way from Fenix. They were shipped yesterday. I'll do a review of the lights when I receive them! Can't wait. I have a new car with new car keys, so the E01 is a nice new light to put on my keys, and the D10 seems to be the best Single AA light ever made. I would definitely buy an EX10/D10 based AAA light in a heartbeat. It would go right on my keychain in place of my E01! Ohh I love the anticipation of receiving a new light..it's been about 4 months.


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## WadeF (Jul 1, 2008)

Paul, was it registered shipping or anything? Like you have to sign for it? If it had tracking, this maybe the case. Did they leave a little orange slip of paper anywhere, like in your mailbox, that you have to sign and take to the post office?


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## m16a (Jul 1, 2008)

Anyone else get a slight whine on max thats only noticeable in absolute silence or right next to your ear on a D10? I've heard of this happening in other lights, so I assume its not bad.


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## WadeF (Jul 1, 2008)

m16a said:


> Anyone else get a slight whine on max thats only noticeable in absolute silence or right next to your ear on a D10? I've heard of this happening in other lights, so I assume its not bad.


 
I couldn't hear anything, but the room I'm in isn't totally quiet. If it has to be dead quiet, with the light up against my ear, to hear the whine, I'm not worried about it.


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## darkzero (Jul 1, 2008)

m16a said:


> Anyone else get a slight whine on max thats only noticeable in absolute silence or right next to your ear on a D10? I've heard of this happening in other lights, so I assume its not bad.


 
Actually my EX-10 did it this morning. I threw in a old JS Burly R123 for the hell of it & got the whine on max. Then put the AW R123 back in there & the whine disappeared. Tried the JS Burly's R123 again & got the whine again.

Normal or not I wouldn't want any of my lights making a whining noise. That's irritating. Works perfectly fine with an AW which is what I'll keep in there.


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## m16a (Jul 1, 2008)

WadeF said:


> I couldn't hear anything, but the room I'm in isn't totally quiet. If it has to be dead quiet, with the light up against my ear, to hear the whine, I'm not worried about it.



Was the bezel fully engaged? It doesn't do it in tactical momentary.

I just realized something. This whole time we've all been "skol 4-7's, great light thanks a ton" and rightly so, but not taking anything away from him, I think we should also give a big round of applause to the Nitecore engineers and production members. They turned out one hecukva light. Thanks for the amazing light nitecore!!:twothumbs


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## WadeF (Jul 1, 2008)

I'm using AW R123's, no whine. What brand of battery are you using m16a? Also yes, the bezel is tight when I listen.


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## m16a (Jul 1, 2008)

I'm using an Energizer AA NiMH in mine


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## LumensMaximus (Jul 1, 2008)

Pleased to say, no further problems, I had popped a new SF battery in yesterday evening after receiving the EX10, but it refused to light up a couple of hours later. A new battery and almost 24 hrs later, I'm a happy camper. Awesome lamp!:twothumbs


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## WadeF (Jul 1, 2008)

m16a said:


> I'm using an Energizer AA NiMH in mine


 
I'll have to give a listen with some NiMH's. I run a AW 14500 in my D10. Maybe your light is whining because of a lack of power. :naughty: AW FTW.


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## m16a (Jul 1, 2008)

WadeF said:


> I'll have to give a listen with some NiMH's. I run a AW 14500 in my D10. Maybe your light is whining because of a lack of power. :naughty: AW FTW.




Soon as I get my paycheck, I'll be buying an AW's P14500 and a charger:twothumbs


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## Paul6ppca (Jul 1, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Paul, was it registered shipping or anything? Nope
> 
> Like you have to sign for it? No ( I dont think anyone else mentioned signing for it.)
> 
> If it had tracking, this maybe the case. Did they leave a little orange slip of paper anywhere, like in your mailbox, that you have to sign and take to the post office?


 No


It was sent with fenix free shipping,nothing to sign for.Im hoping its just my lame postal service.The tracking #said it arrived in my town mon 7;51 am,

today it said 
"Your item was delivered at 1:00 PM on June 30, 2008"could that mean it just made it to the post office, if so Ca and Tx and many other states , much further than Ga to RI have got there and been delivered days ago.I pre ordered on post 400 1st thread,before it was even known that it was a nitecore product.I was sure of its quality from 7777 and bought in ,hoping to be one of the 1st to review and comment,now it seems as if Ill be last.
Thanks for the reply.


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## sj29 (Jul 1, 2008)

*d10 or ex10??*

I know its a personal choice and I know all the functions, but help me make up my mind as to which one to buy....which one feels better for edc??
d10- aa (easier to find), skinny, longer body....
ex10 - 123, shorter, fatter body, able to open without tool, brighter?...


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## geepondy (Jul 1, 2008)

Gosh, there are so many threads about these lights now I'm not sure where to post but I wanted to let people know my fat Energizer 2500mah nimh's easily fit in the D10 battery tube where they are lots of devices including some DX lights that they will not. So it should take whatever AA you throw at it.


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## youreacrab (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

both of these lights are, visually, really quite refined and very attractive. so for me, these qualities meant that i was deciding between the two based on which one i'd be happier with as a daily accessory, rather than as a maximum-utility brute or special use light.

so, i chose the d10 for these needs. the narrower form factor helps with comfortable edc. the convenience of running eneloops (which i can charge with laptop usb port while travelling) is also huge. 

while the charts indicate that the ex10 is a better performer, i am happy to compromise runtime and output because because i have some good fenix lights (P/L2D) for more extended use or when i need more power. 

that said, i'm thinking of ordering an ex to displace my p2d but i haven't quite gotten there yet. can't go wrong with either really, just depends on what role you want it to play.


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## Mr. Blue (Jul 1, 2008)

4sevens...are primary lithium AA's acceptable?


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## Sinjz (Jul 1, 2008)

I read something about the pre-order version of the EX10 being slightly different than the regular produiction one. Can someone tell me what those differences are? Thanks.


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## Sinjz (Jul 1, 2008)

Mr. Blue said:


> 4sevens...are primary lithium AA's acceptable?



I' not 7777, but I'll answer and say 'yes'.


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## Paul6ppca (Jul 1, 2008)

Has anyone that preordered NOT received their light? USA

If so please post.


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## baterija (Jul 1, 2008)

jasonvk77 said:


> How long will it take to get my EX10 shipped in Australia?:candle:



I have a feeling we'll be on part 5 of this thread by the time it shows up :naughty:


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## mrmike (Jul 1, 2008)

Someone asked about cases...

Here's a pretty decent, and very affordable case that's just right for single AA/123 lights:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1373

They're not the best construction, but for the price they can't be beat.


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## Knife Boy (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

I got the EX-10 because I like the more compact body, and the longer runtime of CR-123's. Also, CR123's are less prone to variances in temperature extremes. Here in central Ohio this can be an issue


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## Talas (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

I have them both and my D10 is slightly brighter than my EX10. The EX is almost too short... the D10 fits better in my hand and pocket. You'll be happy with both but the D10 is the most practical, especially with cheap rechargeables.


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## WadeF (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

I like my EX10. I like the SS bezel, I find when using AW Lithium ions in each the EX10's piston has more travel and I find it easier to operate. My EX10 is brighter than my D10, but there will be D10's that are brighter than EX10's.


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## TORCH_BOY (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

Try both


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## baterija (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

Referencing This is Nascar's runtimes here Remember they are samples of one light of each type.

On Li-ion the difference in brightness is probably about the margin of error for the emitter bin. (I have a feeling the lights have exactly the same driver although that has never been explicitly said.) The emitter is the same, and the reflector is the same. The performance differences are really a matter of battery difference and luck of the draw on where the emitter falls in the bin. Run times vary based on battery type (14500 D10 beating RCR123 EX10 for example). The EX10 on primary does have the longest runtime of any option for either light. The D10 does show that it is a little dimmer on non li-ion battery types, but even that isn't a big difference. 

Unlike a lot of "which light" choices this one really seem to come down to only 2 major areas of difference - size and battery preference.


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## regulator (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

Both are very nice.

I choose the D10 for the slimmer profile for better fit the pocket and for the availability of AA cells - alkaline, Lithium primary, and 14500 lithium rechargable. I also have a couple of CR123 lights that I really like already.

The CR123 primary will give the EX10 longer runtime with a primary BUT I believe the D10 on 14500 cell will run a little longer than the EX10 on RCR123 if both adjusted to the same brightness. Do not quote me on this but I think the 14500 cells may actualy have a bit more capacity than RCR123's even though they are rated the same. From the runtime plots I have seen with lights using 14500 cells they typically performed better than similar lights using RCR123's (This is definately a "generalization"). The D10 running on 14500 cells is a nice setup and having a spare L91 gives great flexibility.

Also, I think that if the light is used at meduim outputs that the L91 lithium will perform closer to the CR123 cell - but the CR123 will still perform better do to the higher voltage. SO you will still get very good runtime.

Both these lights appear to be efficient.


----------



## FRANKVZ (Jul 1, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> No
> 
> 
> It was sent with fenix free shipping,nothing to sign for.Im hoping its just my lame postal service.The tracking #said it arrived in my town mon 7;51 am,
> ...



Paul, unfortunately that means that the mailman scanned the package and placed into someones mailbox at 1 PM on 6/30. You may want to try to catch your mailman tomorrow and see if he remembers placing a package in your mailbox monday. Here's what my tracking shows (Your item was delivered at 11:06 AM on June 30, 2008 in NEW CASTLE, PA 16105.)


----------



## EugeneJohn (Jul 1, 2008)

Sinjz said:


> I read something about the pre-order version of the EX10 being slightly different than the regular produiction one. Can someone tell me what those differences are? Thanks.



I don't think there were any differences. The pre-order version and the production version are one in the same. 

Now there was a difference in the pre-production samples. The EX-10 from pre-production didn't have a stainless bezel, but none of those were shipped to customers. 

I'm pulling this out of memory so if I need correcting, somebody please do so.


----------



## streetmaster (Jul 1, 2008)

EugeneJohn said:


> I don't think there were any differences. The pre-order version and the production version are one in the same.
> 
> Now there was a difference in the pre-production samples. The EX-10 from pre-production didn't have a stainless bezel, but none of those were shipped to customers.
> 
> I'm pulling this out of memory so if I need correcting, somebody please do so.


Sounds right to me. I've been following these lights from the first mention.


----------



## 4sevens (Jul 1, 2008)

Mr. Blue said:


> 4sevens...are primary lithium AA's acceptable?


Yes, of course. 


Paul6ppca said:


> It was sent with fenix free shipping,nothing to sign for.Im hoping its just my lame postal service.The tracking #said it arrived in my town mon 7;51 am,
> 
> today it said
> "Your item was delivered at 1:00 PM on June 30, 2008"could that mean it just made it to the post office, if so Ca and Tx and many other states , much further than Ga to RI have got there and been delivered days ago.I pre ordered on post 400 1st thread,before it was even known that it was a nitecore product.I was sure of its quality from 7777 and bought in ,hoping to be one of the 1st to review and comment,now it seems as if Ill be last.
> Thanks for the reply.


Paul, you may want to check with your adjacent neighbors as well as
catch your postman (if you're able to be around). Otherwise if it doesn't 
show up tomorrow, I'd printout that delivery confirmation and go to the post
office and ask whats up. Sometimes they will scan it at the office and it
doesn't make it to the carrier until the next day. I'm not sure whats going on.
Sometimes they mix things up, sometimes they take a while, and sometimes
packages make it across the country in record time (as some have reported).
One rule of thumb, priority mail does make a difference since they sort it in
different bins - so in the future, opting for priority may help with destinations
across the country 


Sinjz said:


> I read something about the pre-order version of the EX10 being slightly different than the regular produiction one. Can someone tell me what those differences are? Thanks.


Sinjz, got your PM. None of the pre-production units were shipped. (they are 
on my desk) Only production lights were shipped. Production units have a 
stainless bezel and tolerances were tighten up.


----------



## Burgess (Jul 1, 2008)

Previously, in this thread,

(or one of its *many* iterations)

somebody suggested this holster:


http://www.defensedevices.com/holster-x1-inova.html


_


----------



## Paul6ppca (Jul 1, 2008)

4sevens said:


> Yes, of course.
> Paul, you may want to check with your adjacent neighbors as well as
> catch your postman (if you're able to be around). Otherwise if it doesn't
> show up tomorrow, I'd printout that delivery confirmation and go to the post
> ...


----------



## Vikas Sontakke (Jul 1, 2008)

I broke down and gave in. D10 was ordered; I hope it shows up soon.

- Vikas


----------



## Paul6ppca (Jul 1, 2008)

PM sent to you 4 sevens,Thanks for looking into this ,I really appreciate it.The only good part of this is your terrific service.


----------



## victor01 (Jul 1, 2008)

shadeone said:


> anyone else think a 1xAAA light done by Nitecore with the same knurling and build quality as the PD series, with a comparable price to the fenix E01 would be an instant hit?
> 
> shade





I'll sure snatch one:twothumbs. I'm a fan of single AAA form factor, very pocket able, as I like to carry my Liteflux LF2 Cree. A single AAA with smart PD system would just be fantastic.

BTW, I don't expect such innovative light to have a comparable price with the E01 (which is great). If it is priced somewhere around the D10/EX10 that would be fair enough as earlier poster said.


----------



## Crenshaw (Jul 1, 2008)

4sevens, ETA on the Trits and Clip?

I might just break down and order the Ex10 first..

Crenshaw


----------



## LG&M (Jul 1, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Has anyone that preordered NOT received their light? USA
> 
> If so please post.


I have not. I live in the midWest. Tracking shows... "Your item was processed and left our ATLANTA, GA 30320 facility on June 30, 2008. Information, if available, is updated every evening. Please check again later. "


----------



## f22shift (Jul 1, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Has anyone that preordered NOT received their light? USA
> 
> If so please post.


 
yes. it's sent but it's taking a long time. i don't know why.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 1, 2008)

*Re: d10 or ex10??*

What?


----------



## swxb12 (Jul 1, 2008)

First class mail can take forever depending on your location. Does 4Sevens offer Fedex or UPS? That would be a slight improvement.


----------



## Sinjz (Jul 1, 2008)

EugeneJohn said:


> I don't think there were any differences. The pre-order version and the production version are one in the same.
> 
> Now there was a difference in the pre-production samples. The EX-10 from pre-production didn't have a stainless bezel, but none of those were shipped to customers.
> 
> I'm pulling this out of memory so if I need correcting, somebody please do so.



Pre-order vs. pre-production; I think that's were I got confused. Thanks for clearing it up! :thumbsup:


----------



## kaichu dento (Jul 2, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Has anyone that preordered NOT received their light? USA
> 
> If so please post.


I haven't received mine yet, but I pick up at the post office in town once a week. Oftentimes I'll check the shipping status and an item will show up as having been delivered when it has not been put in the box yet and what it means is that the post office receiving station has it, but not necessarily my post office.

Hopefully I'll find them waiting for me at the post office tomorrow!


----------



## 9x23 (Jul 2, 2008)

Sgt. LED said:


> I took a shower with the EX10 and it did fine. I figure the shower simulates a super downpour good enough. Never been too concerned about full dunking, as long as the shower test is good I have faith in the light's ability. It sucks yours got water in it! Which do you have 123 or AA? Was it on high and warm when it went in? Perhaps it was only condensation? What was the water temp?
> 
> Another reason to get the 123 version! If it gets water in the bezel you can open it yourself and dry it out.



This happened to the 123 light, but I've got a spare plus an AA version too that will keep me entertained while I send this back to 4sevens! I'm not sure of the temp but it was warm water, about 90-95 degress I guess. It is now about 14 hours later and the lense is still fogged, but on the other hand it acts as a very nice diffuser! 

I've dunked most of the lights that I use because I like to test my equipment before I rely on it as an EDC. I've only had one light (A19) fail but that was my fault because I forgot to put the o-ring seal behind the lense after I built it. I still think very highly of the light and plan to purchase more soon.....

9x23


----------



## 9x23 (Jul 2, 2008)

BabyDoc said:


> Had you greased the O-rings real well before you subjected the light to your water test?



Yes, first thing I did right out of the box was to lube the o-rings at the tail and head, and the threads with Nyogel before playing with it.

9x23


----------



## 9x23 (Jul 2, 2008)

4sevens said:


> No problem. Email us at [email protected] for a replacement. We need to look into your unit. Question... did you have it in hot or cold water?
> Rapidly quickly switching between the two while the light is underwater will
> cause a vacuum effect. (cold air is more dense than hot air)



4sevens,

Thanks I'll shoot you an email shortly. The water was warm, about 90-95 degrees is my best guess. I turned it on under water and left it on in the lowest setting so I don't think the vacuum effect would have sucked any water into it.

9x23


----------



## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

darkzero said:


> Actually my EX-10 did it this morning. I threw in a old JS Burly R123 for the hell of it & got the whine on max. Then put the AW R123 back in there & the whine disappeared. Tried the JS Burly's R123 again & got the whine again.
> 
> Normal or not I wouldn't want any of my lights making a whining noise. That's irritating. Works perfectly fine with an AW which is what I'll keep in there.


 
Correction, with an AW I can hear a very faint whine if you listen really close. The room needs to be dead quite with the head right up to my ear. With the JS Burly R123 I can hear the whine on high with ease.

I can actually hear the whine at all levels. But again it needs to be right up against my ear to barely hear it. If I ramp the brighteness up & down you can hear the pitch of the whine ascend & descend with some odd tones in between. Sounds pretty cool. I've got a musical flashlight!


----------



## Ilikeshinythings (Jul 2, 2008)

I hope I am not foolish for asking this, but I have only heard reference to advanced AA batteries being used in the D10, and not alkalines. I planned on using a simple energizer alkaline in this light. Obviously I won't be getting 130 lumens for 50 minutes, so what should I expect from a single AA alkaline in the D10?


----------



## ruriimasu (Jul 2, 2008)

i think the 50mins on 130lumens was result for a normal alkaline. or was i wrong?:shrug:


----------



## SaturnNyne (Jul 2, 2008)

Ilikeshinythings said:


> I planned on using a simple energizer alkaline in this light. Obviously I won't be getting 130 lumens for 50 minutes, so what should I expect from a single AA alkaline in the D10?


Runtime graphs here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201647


----------



## DM51 (Jul 2, 2008)

You guys complaining about high-pitched whining noises... I just wish I could still hear sounds like that. You get yourself blown up and shot at a bit, you don't hear things like that any more. Unfortunately, you don't hear a whole lot of other high-frequency sounds either.


----------



## rayman (Jul 2, 2008)

I can't believe it. I ordered it on the evening of the 26th and today I got a small packet :huh:. The shipping took only 6 days to Germany :thumbsup:. I'm so happy because I expected it in the next two weeks.






:nana::huh::thumbsup:

The service of 4sevens is really great it's not the last time that I buy from him.

rayman


----------



## d1dd1 (Jul 2, 2008)

4sevens said:


> I haven't tried opening the D10 - I was just told by NiteCore that a tool is
> needed, but that it's possible to open up.



Any news how to open the D10 ?

What are the dimensions of the D10 reflector ?

Thanks

@rayman: :huh: That's great, hopefully mine will arrive here soon.


----------



## Blindasabat (Jul 2, 2008)

I will be the last since mine is being delivered to the office and I am out until Monday. I have to wait for my EX10 and Zebralight H30 while reading all about them!


Paul6ppca said:


> Mine says delivered!! I guess I wont be the last onr of the preorder to get thiers,maybe next to last.


----------



## Paul6ppca (Jul 2, 2008)

Blindasabat said:


> I will be the last since mine is being delivered to the office and I am out until Monday. I have to wait for my EX10 and Zebralight H30 while reading all about them!


 
No it will be me ,mine seems to be lost our USPS seems to have delivered it to somewhere else,If USPS took a test and had the answer key I bet they would still fail.

Lets see, house with a number and street address, same route every day,a package with house number and street. How much easier can it get? Do we need to add pictures of the house for them to get it right.:shakehead


----------



## darkzero (Jul 2, 2008)

d1dd1 said:


> What are the dimensions of the D10 reflector ?


 
If it's the same reflector as the EX-10, I posted the dimensions here.


----------



## d1dd1 (Jul 2, 2008)

D10 dimensions from fenix-store: 89mm x 19mm

I don't think a 18,4mm diameter reflector will fit in


----------



## HKJ (Jul 2, 2008)

rayman said:


> I can't believe it. I ordered it on the evening of the 26th and today I got a small packet :huh:. The shipping took only 6 days to Germany :thumbsup:. I'm so happy because I expected it in the next two weeks.
> :nana::huh::thumbsup:
> 
> rayman



That sounds very promising, now I can hope that mine arrive before the weekend.


----------



## alibaba (Jul 2, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Has anyone that preordered NOT received their light? USA
> 
> If so please post.


 


I ordered Sun. 6/29 and it still said preorder. I got a "status changed: shipped" email Mon. the 30th. My mail just came today and it wasn't there. Were these put into your mailbox or delivered to the door. We have a small apartment mailbox so I'm hoping that it just didn't fit and will be delivered to the door. I'm probably being optomistic about a 2-day delivery from Georgia to Michigan!


----------



## mandrake (Jul 2, 2008)

Well I got my EX10 last Monday after ordering on 6/27. Great service 4 Sevens!! I really like the light. To my eyes there is no difference in brightness between the EX10 and my NDI (using 14500). I like the form factor and the UI is nice, after I figured out how to coordinate the clicks. One thing I noticed and would like other people's thoughts on, the piston seems very stiff. I have to push it with more effort than what I expected. It also does not have much of a audible or tactile click when pushed. Just form looking at the video that four sevens did, it appeared that on the light he was using was easier to push the button and I could hear an audible click when he did. How is the button push on your lights?

Phil

Edit:
I took the EX10 apart and cleaned it well. I cleaned inside the sleeve and the piston with alcohol. I treated the spring and positive contact in the head with Deoxit and Deoxit gold. I also cleaned the split ring in the head with Deoxit and spun it around several times then added the Deoxit Gold. That seemed to free it up some. I then lubed the piston with a light coat of Nano Lube. I lubed the O rings with silicon grease. I put it back together and it works much better. There is now a good tactile and audible click when the piston is pushed. It is also easier to push now, but still a bit stiffer than I like.


----------



## AardvarkSagus (Jul 2, 2008)

I already have my EX10 here in Michigan. Usually delivery from Fenix-Store is on the order of 2 days or so. Their service is fantastic including how fast they ship. 

I have to say this is the highest quality flashlight I own. I know I don't have nearly the light experience that most of you have, but this is one that I am going to carry for a long time. The fit and finish is fantastic and any gripes I have are more like forward looking constructive criticism than problems of any sort. I normally am not a big fan of knurling, but this light does a good job making it both look and feel great. My light is perfectly matched as far as the Ano goes and disappears beautifully in my pocket. 

The output on mine is noticably brighter than the P4 Fenix P2D that a friend has as well as comparing nicely with my 120 lumen Pila GL2. The tint is about as white as I have ever seen. My GL2 is slightly purple and the P2D is somewhat greenish in comparison. This light splits the difference exactly. The transition from spot to spill is fairly smooth and the beam is fantastic. I keep hearing about the "Cree ring circus" that these still have and I have to intentionally look carefully at a white wall beam before I can even begin to spot it. I guess I am just a lottery winner. 

Constructive critisism? Let's start with the SS bezel. Looks beautiful. Good choice of methods to keep the same reflector and reduce manufacturing costs. However I would suggest that it should be just a touch thicker and include a chamfer to reduce the _slight_ roughness it has. 

Secondly, the UI. I am also of the opinion that it should remember your preset. I know it's just an approximate, but eventually you can nail that down somewhere you really like. Plus if it is possible to understand 2 levels of pressure currently when in momentary mode, remembering your preset might allow you to have a strict 2 level light between preset and Max. 

Finally, if it is possible to cause a jump to minimum to always ramp from min-max and the opposite from Max, it would alleviate the majority of the misunderstandings about this UI's supposed difficulty. 

Overall this is a superb light. I thank Nitecore and 4sevens and even McGizmo for this fantastic piece. I am a happy customer!


----------



## BigD64 (Jul 2, 2008)

I got em both and I like'm.


----------



## shadeone (Jul 2, 2008)

emailed fenix-store this morning and mentioned the 1xaaa nitecore idea...

got a response saying it would be brought up to the powers-that-be

shade


----------



## jchoo (Jul 2, 2008)

I'm thoroughly enjoying my EX10. Today in lecture I wound up taking out the bezel and dissecting the head in order to clean a bit of plastic flashing that was stuck to the dome of the emitter. When I got home, I found a package from DX containing a charger and 2 Ultrafire protected 16340 cells. Unfortunately, they are too long for the EX10. When the head is tightened completely, there is ZERO movement possible in the piston. When in the momentary/lockout position, the light functions somewhat normally, but only the first stage of contact works - you can't bottom out the piston and change the light level or use the double click/click press like you could with a primary 123a. Oh well... time to buy some AWs I guess.


----------



## WadeF (Jul 2, 2008)

A 1xAAA version would be interesting. I wonder if it would be hard to press the piston switch on a light that small. I guess it wouldn't be too bad. I'd love an 18650 version, as small as possible to fit the 18650, SS bezel, etc. Can you imagine if it went as low as the current EX10 / D10 with a 18650? What kind of run time would that be, a week?  

I'm really excited to see what 4sevens and Nitecore come up with next.


----------



## Saranic (Jul 2, 2008)

Has anyone added a slot for tritium?


----------



## rayman (Jul 2, 2008)

jchoo said:


> Oh well... time to buy some AWs I guess.



The AWs fit perfectly. I think they are the best.

Another question:
Does anybody else has a very quiet but high beeping sound when the EX10 is on maximum?
I never had a high performance LED like this before so I don't know if this is normal.

rayman


----------



## Thujone (Jul 2, 2008)

WadeF said:


> I'd love an 18650 version, as small as possible to fit the 18650, SS bezel, etc. Can you imagine if it went as low as the current EX10 / D10 with a 18650? What kind of run time would that be, a week?


----------



## Thujone (Jul 2, 2008)

Saranic said:


> Has anyone added a slot for tritium?



I added a trit just in the tail, opposite the slit for a ring. Worked fine for me, but I will get a trit piston when available.


----------



## shadeone (Jul 2, 2008)

anyone got any ideas on a makeshift diffuser cap for the D10?

shade


----------



## WadeF (Jul 2, 2008)

shadeone said:


> anyone got any ideas on a makeshift diffuser cap for the D10?
> 
> shade


 
Not yet. Do you have anything around the house, like caps for maple syrup, caps from water bottles, etc?


----------



## TECENG (Jul 2, 2008)

For the AAA version.

Ha! Fooled you all 
But maybe if I ordered one we would get it faster...


----------



## WadeF (Jul 2, 2008)

for AAA version.

 for 18650 version.

 for 18650 with Cree X-MC version.


----------



## yekim (Jul 2, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Not yet. Do you have anything around the house, like caps for maple syrup, caps from water bottles, etc?



THe water bottle cap thing works, either as is or you can trim off the threads to make it smaller. 

It really is a help when you use your lights for overhead ambient light.


----------



## m16a (Jul 2, 2008)

rayman said:


> The AWs fit perfectly. I think they are the best.
> 
> Another question:
> Does anybody else has a very quiet but high beeping sound when the EX10 is on maximum?
> ...



From Sgt LED. "Thats just the inductor vibrating. Perfectly normally behavior on many lights"

I have the same thing. Don't worry, nothing wrong. Think of it as your light humming with power



WadeF said:


> Not yet. Do you have anything around the house, like caps for maple syrup, caps from water bottles, etc?



I tried a styrofoam plate, and that diffused it(quite a bit, don't know how well it will work) Maybe if you could find a way to fashion it to stay on it would work?


----------



## m16a (Jul 2, 2008)

Double post


----------



## Thujone (Jul 2, 2008)

Press n seal works pretty well, has a habit of ovaling the beam though, not sure if that will bug you, but at least it stays in place and is reusable.


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jul 2, 2008)

I don't hear any noise from my EX10.....
I guess it's like DM51 said, a few explosions, grenades, 50 cal fire, etc. means bye bye to high frequency sounds. 
Aw, it was worth it!


----------



## rayman (Jul 2, 2008)

m16a said:


> From Sgt LED. "Thats just the inductor vibrating. Perfectly normally behavior on many lights"
> 
> I have the same thing. Don't worry, nothing wrong. Think of it as your light humming with power



Ok thank you very much. That's what I wanted to hear .

rayman


----------



## Marduke (Jul 2, 2008)

m16a said:


> From Sgt LED. "Thats just the inductor vibrating. Perfectly normally behavior on many lights"
> 
> I have the same thing. Don't worry, nothing wrong. Think of it as your light humming with power




Yeah, all cool gadgets hum with power when in use. Just ask your wife/girlfriend


----------



## 04orgZx6r (Jul 2, 2008)

Hey 4sevens, Can we get a timeline on when the PDs with trits will be available?
I want an EX10 wit trits but will wait if you are going to offer them as a package.


----------



## 4sevens (Jul 2, 2008)

04orgZx6r said:


> Hey 4sevens, Can we get a timeline on when the PDs with trits will be available?
> I want an EX10 wit trits but will wait if you are going to offer them as a package.


It's at least a month out. Trits take time to hatch. We will offer them as an 
accessory, possibly with an option to send in your old one for a little credit.


----------



## d1dd1 (Jul 2, 2008)

4sevens said:


> It's at least a month out. Trits take time to hatch. We will offer them as an
> accessory, possibly with an option to send in your old one for a little credit.



Could you offer pistons with trit slots only, so that I can put my own trits in ?
Thanks


----------



## Dead_Nuts (Jul 2, 2008)

4sevens said:


> It's at least a month out. Trits take time to hatch. We will offer them as an
> accessory, possibly with an option to send in your old one for a little credit.



Fantastic news!

4sevens, I am impressed with this light and your responsiveness to the flashaholics.


----------



## Jarl (Jul 2, 2008)

4sevens said:


> Trits take time to hatch.



Ahh, so that's how trits are made... two big trits


----------



## orcinus (Jul 2, 2008)

Tritties! :laughing:


----------



## TECENG (Jul 2, 2008)

orcinus said:


> Tritties! :laughing:


 
Couldn't you just get some at a trittie bar? 

OK, I'll stop now...


----------



## orcinus (Jul 2, 2008)

What, tritties and beer? 
(couldn't help myself, sorry)


----------



## 4sevens (Jul 2, 2008)

d1dd1 said:


> Could you offer pistons with trit slots only, so that I can put my own trits in ?
> Thanks


Sure.

Ok, enough funnies. We don't want to get this thread locked.


----------



## d1dd1 (Jul 2, 2008)

Thanks,
how about the opening of the D10 head, any news ?


----------



## rayman (Jul 2, 2008)

I didn't really understand what you all mean with 'Trits'? Can somebody explain it to me?

rayman


----------



## orcinus (Jul 2, 2008)

Tritium vials...
Little phosphor coated glass vials filled with tritium (radioactive isotope of hydrogen, 3H), that glow in the dark (without an external power/light source).


----------



## WadeF (Jul 2, 2008)

rayman said:


> I didn't really understand what you all mean with 'Trits'? Can somebody explain it to me?
> 
> rayman


 
Trits are small glas vials of tritium(I think) that is slightly radioactive, but not enough that it would harm you. This allows it to glow on it's own for years.


----------



## EugeneJohn (Jul 2, 2008)

AardvarkSagus said:


> Finally, if it is possible to cause a jump to minimum to always ramp from min-max and the opposite from Max, it would alleviate the majority of the misunderstandings about this UI's supposed difficulty.
> 
> Overall this is a superb light. I thank Nitecore and 4sevens and even McGizmo for this fantastic piece. I am a happy customer!



Thanks, I'd been wondering what was going on with my EX-10 when at max/min and wanting to ramp up/down. Half the time it wouldn't ramp on the first click/hold. Now I realize I was at max/ramping up or min/ramping down.

Also I agree that this is a superb light and I'm also a happy customer.


----------



## rayman (Jul 2, 2008)

WadeF said:


> Trits are small glas vials of tritium(I think) that is slightly radioactive, but not enough that it would harm you. This allows it to glow on it's own for years.



Oh thanks. I heard of this somewhere but not here at CPF. So there is a piston planned with this tritium build in somewhere?

rayman


----------



## 04orgZx6r (Jul 2, 2008)

4sevens said:


> It's at least a month out. Trits take time to hatch. We will offer them as an
> accessory, possibly with an option to send in your old one for a little credit.



Nice...Thanks for the quick reply. looks like I'll be getting an EX10 sooner than I expected.

As for the features of this light, here's how I see it.
This is a really simple single mode light that lets you choose how bright you want it to be simply fantastic! I think most of us would have been happy there with no complaints. However, for us flashaholics, 4sevens had a great idea of implementing shortcuts to get to the most used settings faster (high/low). Wow what a great idea.........wait what now you guys are complaining? It seems that we get a little and it is never quite good enough. For once I think this light is good enough.
:thumbsup:to you 4sevens


----------



## LG&M (Jul 2, 2008)

Mine came today In the mail under the Guns & Ammo. I took a few minutes to get used to the UI. Over all it looks great:thumbsup: Now to find a pocket clip.


----------



## WASF (Jul 2, 2008)

My D10 gets hot on high faster and hotter than any of my fenix ????
what about yours ???


----------



## 276 (Jul 2, 2008)

still waiting on mine i think the post office lost it at this rate


----------



## Ty_Bower (Jul 2, 2008)

It's the third night, and I still like my EX10. I attached the included lanyard using an extra split ring through the light. Someone suggested a #8. I used a #6, which was all I had, and it seems to work just fine. I'll agree that using an extra split ring through the light is a better idea than just clipping the Berkeley style snap through the light.

I think I've always been a fan of short-ish lanyards, but most lights don't come with anything. Those that do come with a lanyard usually have some cheap junky one. I appreciate that Nitecore put a decent piece of paracord in the box with a good clip and cinch ball. The little plastic fob on the end let one side slip out, but I melted the ends of the nylon cord with a flame and just tied a knot.

I was thinking about the lanyard attachment point, and how often the manufacturer will machine a pair of holes adjacent to a notch in the tail. This allows you to put a ring or a clip through the hole for lanyard attachment. If you want to tailstand the light you can flip the ring over into the notch, and all is good. It'll sit flat and not wobble since the ring goes up into the notch.

The tricky part is that sometimes the ring flips over the _over_ way, and then it wobbles when you set it down. Sure, you can carefully line up the ring in the notch and then hold it in with your finger before you set it down. But why not make one hole with two notches, one on either side of the hole? Then it doesn't matter which way the ring flips - it'll always land in a notch. I can't recall seeing anyone do this before. It's always one notch with two holes. Why do I need two holes? I'm not going to attach two lanyards. Is one of the holes going to wear through? I've never had it happen to me...


----------



## Paul6ppca (Jul 2, 2008)

276 said:


> still waiting on mine i think the post office lost it at this rate


Im in the same boat except,I know mine is lost,7777 is taking care of it.Check your tracking # and see if it says delivered.


----------



## matrixshaman (Jul 2, 2008)

A couple things I noted upon the arrival of #2 - the D10. Both the EX10 and D10 have tints and brightness very close to each other - so that indicates the bin Nitecore used is as they stated a reel of a specific bin and a good one at that. Very nice and white. The next thing noted was that on an Eneloop AA (not a fresh charge either) the D10 seemed a little brighter than the EX10. Now the EX10 had been used for a couple minutes on an AW RCR123 so none of this is very scientific in comparing these two but I was surprised how bright the D10 was on a NiMH. I believe it was brighter yet on a 14500 but I could tell right off I need to get an AW 14500 as my UF battery is a bit long and makes it harder to press the switch. Not much chance yet to spend checking them out but I think they are both great and probably one of the best deals going right now.


----------



## FsTop (Jul 2, 2008)

On the subject of tail design, it would be nice if the notches were less abrupt - the 90-degree notch profile creates an unnecessary corner sticking out where your finger needs to go.

Take a look a the JetBeam MkII IBS for a more finger-friendly notch design...


----------



## 276 (Jul 3, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Im in the same boat except,I know mine is lost,7777 is taking care of it.Check your tracking # and see if it says delivered.


 Doesn't say delivered, just says that electronic shipping info received


----------



## kaichu dento (Jul 3, 2008)

Thujone said:


> I added a trit just in the tail, opposite the slit for a ring. Worked fine for me, but I will get a trit piston when available.


Do you have any pics???? :huh:


----------



## kaichu dento (Jul 3, 2008)

276 said:


> still waiting on mine i think the post office lost it at this rate





Paul6ppca said:


> Im in the same boat except,I know mine is lost,7777 is taking care of it.Check your tracking # and see if it says delivered.


Well this is a bummer of a group to belong to. 

I was looking forward to the post office visit since I pre-ordered on June 19th; but even though the E01's I bought showed up so fast, no D10 and no word whatsoever about the EX10 which I ordered later.

Maybe the post office employees found out about these and are taking our lights!


----------



## alibaba (Jul 3, 2008)

DM51 said:


> You guys complaining about high-pitched whining noises... I just wish I could still hear sounds like that. You get yourself blown up and shot at a bit, you don't hear things like that any more. Unfortunately, you don't hear a whole lot of other high-frequency sounds either.


 


Find a woman who smokes, their voices are deeper 

Ok, I got home just now from work hoping that my GF (who doesn't smoke ) would give me a package that came to the door because it wouldn't fit in the mailbox.......................wrong. I just found out, as well, that the conformation # in my "shipped" email was the tracking # :duh2:. It says that it left the Atlanta center on 6/30 and that is the last detail. Does that mean it isn't even in Michigan yet? I was hoping this would hold me over until my Z52 twisty switch came for my E1B!


----------



## DM51 (Jul 3, 2008)

alibaba said:


> Find a woman who smokes, their voices are deeper


Mrs DM51 has a fairly high-pitched voice, but unfortunately not quite high enough for me to be unable to hear it, lol.


----------



## d1dd1 (Jul 3, 2008)

:lolsign:


----------



## LED-holic (Jul 3, 2008)

WASF said:


> My D10 gets hot on high faster and hotter than any of my fenix ????
> what about yours ???


Yes my D10 gets hot too, not too hot, but it does get warmer than the Fenix lights I have.

First impressions of this light - I LOVE this light!!! It's a ground breaking light and it feels soooo good in my hand.

I used it for 30 minutes already and love the interface and clicky. This is going to replace my beloved L1D Q5 as my EDC.


----------



## Thujone (Jul 3, 2008)

kaichu dento said:


> Do you have any pics???? :huh:




I do not, its been a mad fury of cleaning the house in prep for family arriving today. Should the opportunity arise before they arrive I will snap off a quick one tonight.


----------



## LowBat (Jul 3, 2008)

LED-holic said:


> This is going to replace my beloved L1D Q5 as my EDC.


How well does the D10 fit in the Fenix L1D holster?


----------



## litetube (Jul 3, 2008)

I am in the same boat 276. I also have the added complication that Fenixstore may have used my old address even though my new address was entered. My tracking also says "processed" on the 27th and it hasnt moved since. 

Only response I got from Fenixstore was "Hopefully it will end up back here so that we can get it back out to you " which doesnt instill much confidence in me. This plan of action combined with the USPS will result in 2-3 weeks addtional waiting and that is if it ends up back there at some point , otherwise the jist of this response is a polite "you are screwed". 
Kind of a crappy situation for the customer when it wasnt their error. :shakehead

Hope is for children at Christmas and Barrack Obamas campaign slogans.:duh2:

Seems as if maybe when the tidal wave of these hit the USPS , a bunch got put in a bin in a dark corner and sit there to this day.


----------



## streetmaster (Jul 3, 2008)

My mailman is an idiot. Last time he left a package on the steps OUTSIDE my porch. Anyone see a problem with that?


----------



## alibaba (Jul 3, 2008)

OK, I rode my moped to the post office this morning (because I don't trust my mailman) and picked up my D10. After only 10 minuted of testing I LOVE THIS LIGHT! It is a bit brighter using a NiMH than my SF E1B and has a nice tight hotspot and TONS of spill. I've already mastered the UI and like the fact that you can keep low level in momentary but with a bit more pressure you can still access max quickly, this was a plesasant surprise! The tint on mine is very white, it makes my E1B look just a tad creamy but I love both tints. The light feels really sturdy and once I find a pocket clip this light will take over EDC from the E1B fo' sho'. I was glad to see that it is substantially smaller than the E1B in all dimensions and yet has more output, at least comperable runtime (maybe a bit more with lithium?) and a switch that I'm not worried about failing. For <$60 this light is an absolute GEM! Thanks 4-7's and Nitecore!


----------



## lnh (Jul 3, 2008)

After playing with the lights for several days I'm getting much more consistent doing the shortcuts to max and min. Not at 100% accuracy, but getting better. Maybe I'm just fast-double click/fast-click hold challenged. If the switch operated with less force it would probably be easier.

As others have mentioned, a clip and holster would be very nice to see as accessories.

Although documented in the manual, I've concluded it does have one bug. The press to ramp brightening/dimming after a shortcut to min or max is a bit flaky. The manual says, 

"When the light is on Max or Min brightness level, you depress and hold, it could happen sometimes that the brightness do not change..."

In my playing around with the light this statement is absolutely true with both models. It's also somewhat random. Sometimes it will change on the first press and other times won't. The behavior of a UI should be consistent all the time and not read like if it doesn't work the first time try it again. I understand their logic as to why it occurs, but still view it as a bug. You could imagine all sorts of solutions to this with simple programming if the processor & memory were robust enough. I know it's not a big deal in the overall scheme of things, but it shows a lack of final polish. Atleast it's documented.

No need to post replies saying you'll take these lights off my hands. They aren't leaving my hands. I do like them very much, but just wanted to point out a little sore spot.


----------



## m16a (Jul 3, 2008)

streetmaster said:


> My mailman is an idiot. Last time he left a package on the steps OUTSIDE my porch. Anyone see a problem with that?



Light hungry flashaholic might steal it?:nana:

Its o-ring sealed and greased well, if it rained there wouldn't have been a problem:laughing:


----------



## streetmaster (Jul 3, 2008)

m16a said:


> Light hungry flashaholic might steal it?:nana:
> 
> Its o-ring sealed and greased well, if it rained there wouldn't have been a problem:laughing:


Your first answer is what I'm worried about.  
I live in an urban area, if the wrong person spots the box... it's gone. And with no insurance on the package, I'm screwed. All because the mailman didn't put it out of sight.


----------



## Braddah_Bill (Jul 3, 2008)

Paul6ppca said:


> Has anyone that preordered NOT received their light? USA
> 
> If so please post.



Reading this on 07/02/08 2:30 pm I was just about to post. My order (D10) was shipped on 6/27 (First class) and when I checked my mail box at 3:30 pm there it was :twothumbs: . 

I took the light to work and played with it every chance I got. How much do I like it??? I just got done ordering an EX10 :thumbsup: thats how much I like it.

Nuff said.

Bill


----------



## streetmaster (Jul 3, 2008)

Has anyone tried the Trustfire protected 16340 in their EX10? I already have some of these. Will the PD mechanism still work properly? I need to know if I have to get different Li-ions. I know AW's fit, but they are so expensive. Here's a picture I took to show the size compared to a SureFire primary. Btw, I don't have my EX10 yet, it's en route.


----------



## Braddah_Bill (Jul 3, 2008)

I think someone posted that the Trustfire is a little too long to use. This thread is too long to try to go back and find the post, but may be someone else will chime in who knows for sure.


Bill




streetmaster said:


> Has anyone tried the Trustfire protected 16340 in their EX10? I already have some of these. Will the PD mechanism still work properly? I need to know if I have to get different Li-ions. I know AW's fit, but they are so expensive. Here's a picture I took to show the size compared to a SureFire primary. Btw, I don't have my EX10 yet, it's en route.


----------



## streetmaster (Jul 3, 2008)

Found out for sure myself. Just got mine a few minutes ago. They are way too long. The piston won't move at all. Looks like I'm on primaries until I can get some AW's. I do have some SoShine 3.0v rechargeables, but they're not protected. They are short enough to work though.


----------



## Marduke (Jul 3, 2008)

3.0v rechargeables with no circuit means they are LiFePO4's, which don't need protection (safe chemistry)


----------



## streetmaster (Jul 3, 2008)

Marduke said:


> 3.0v rechargeables with no circuit means they are LiFePO4's, which don't need protection (safe chemistry)


So they're safe to use in my EX10? Do I have to worry about running them down too far?


----------



## Thujone (Jul 3, 2008)

I think by safe they mean it wont pipe bomb you. If you over discharge you are still likely to lose capacity, of which the cells already have very little of. Just my take on them, take it for what its worth.


----------



## Marduke (Jul 3, 2008)

streetmaster said:


> So they're safe to use in my EX10? Do I have to worry about running them down too far?



Without actually knowing what they are, I personally can't say for sure. I'm just making an educated guess.


----------



## streetmaster (Jul 3, 2008)

Marduke said:


> Without actually knowing what they are, I personally can't say for sure. I'm just making an educated guess.


I can't find for sure what exactly they are. I think they may have diodes under the positive end. http://www.soshine.com.cn/html/Products15.htm
So I still have to keep them from being discharged below a certain level?


----------



## Saranic (Jul 3, 2008)

how about an EX20 Mil defender

2x123(225 lumes), Trit in PD, Crenelated bezel and OD HAIII

Ok, I can dream.


----------



## LED-holic (Jul 3, 2008)

LowBat said:


> How well does the D10 fit in the Fenix L1D holster?


I don't use the L1D holster, but I would think it would fit well. It's a tad smaller than the L1D, but the knurling should keep the light well in the holster so it won't fall out.

After playing with the D10, I can definitely say it's my favorite light right now.

My poor L1D Q5, I really loved it but its role shall now be back up to the D10.

I can't wait for future versions of the D10. I would buy 2 of the D10 but I've got too many lights right now. I will buy version 2.0 of the D10 though as well.

The NiteCore D10 is an *awesome awesome* light!!!

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## lengendcpf (Jul 3, 2008)

for 1 X D10
for 1 X Zebra H50
for 2 X Insurance

Should not have joined CPF..:nana:


----------



## LED-holic (Jul 3, 2008)

lengendcpf said:


> for 1 X D10
> for 1 X Zebra H50
> for 2 X Insurance
> 
> Should not have joined CPF..:nana:


You're going to LOVE the D10!!!!!!

You'll also love your H50. But the D10 is the most amazing light for the money!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## mr.snakeman (Jul 3, 2008)

"Should not have joined CPF:nana:"
I and my bank account sadly agree, but WTF!:devil:, you only live a million times!


----------



## LED-holic (Jul 3, 2008)

Here is a photo comparing the Zebralight H50 to the D10. 

From left to right: H50, D10, Jet-1 IBS, NDI, L1D Q5


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 3, 2008)

*EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Ok, it's bad enough already that I have to wait until about the 20th of July to make this purchase (I'm moving into my new house on the 24th... always takes at least 1-2 weeks for stuff from Fenix-store to Canada for me).

But now I have to decide between two seemingly great lights. I've been reading reviews on both, reading negative and positive highlights on each light -- and I just can't stop reading about them and looking at them. I AM LOSING IT! Don't know which one to buy... 

Is it safe to say that everyone is just going to tell me to buy both? Because I'm starting to think that is the only solution. :duh2:


----------



## olrac (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Functionally they are the same. So it comes down to a couple of things:

1. Battery preference
2. Size
3. Importance of modding ease

You only can decide these issues for yourself.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



foxtrot29 said:


> Ok, it's bad enough already that I have to wait until about the 20th of July to make this purchase (I'm moving into my new house on the 24th... always takes at least 1-2 weeks for stuff from Fenix-store to Canada for me).
> 
> But now I have to decide between two seemingly great lights. I've been reading reviews on both, reading negative and positive highlights on each light -- and I just can't stop reading about them and looking at them. I AM LOSING IT! Don't know which one to buy...
> 
> Is it safe to say that everyone is just going to tell me to buy both? Because I'm starting to think that is the only solution. :duh2:


EX10 all the way with no regrets!

- it is brighter
- it runs fully regulated
- it is shorter
- it has stainless steel bezel ring
- it looks better
- it costs the same as the D10


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

:sigh:

Is there no cure for this disease?


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> EX10 all the way with no regrets!
> 
> - it is brighter
> - it runs fully regulated
> ...



I keep hearing that the EX10 is brighter... and then I keep hearing that it's the difference in LED bins... But yet, I haven't seen anyone post about the D10 being brighter.


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



olrac said:


> Functionally they are the same. So it comes down to a couple of things:
> 
> 1. Battery preference
> 2. Size
> ...


They are not the same when it comes to performance. That was a deal setter for me. Look at those graphics in the Reviews section. The EX10 has an efficience/circuitry/regulation that matches any HDS, RA or custom made flashlight. While the D10 performs like an ordinary AA semi-regulated cheapo light.


----------



## orcinus (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

It's brighter on primaries. On rechargables, they should be about the same.
According to this_is_nascar's testing, his D10 was actually slightly brighter than his EX10 on AW rechargables, but that's probably due to individual emitter differences.

Regarding the rest of the list, they are both fully regulated and looks are highly subjective (i, for one, find the D10 looks nicer and hate the way the SS bezel "interferes" with the minimalism of the light).


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> They are not the same when it comes to performance. That was a deal setter for me. Look at those graphics in the Reviews section. The EX10 has an efficience/circuitry/regulation that matches any HDS, RA or custom made flashlight. While the D10 performs like an ordinary AA semi-regulated cheapo light.



Here we go.... starting to lean....


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



foxtrot29 said:


> I keep hearing that the EX10 is brighter... and then I keep hearing that it's the difference in LED bins... But yet, I haven't seen anyone post about the D10 being brighter.


Bins are the same on both models. It's the CR123 power the main reason for the EX10's superior performance.


----------



## orcinus (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> They are not the same when it comes to performance. That was a deal setter for me. Look at those graphics in the Reviews section. The EX10 has an efficience/circuitry/regulation that matches any HDS, RA or custom made flashlight. While the D10 performs like an ordinary AA semi-regulated cheapo light.



Take another look at the graphs.
What you've described stands for Energizer E2 Lithiums (ok, and the duracell AA primary - which really should be considered an "in-case-of-emergency" choice).


----------



## Outdoors Fanatic (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



orcinus said:


> Take another look at the graphs.
> What you've described stands for Energizer E2 Lithiums (ok, and the duracell AA primary - which really should be considered an "in-case-of-emergency" choice).


The EX10 still trumps the D10 using any chemistry you choose to feed it.


----------



## tricker (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

its really just a preference....on rechargeables they will be the same.....primares ex10 should have it by a little but D10's batteries are easier to find.....one's thinner one's shorter........i got the d10 because i woulda went with the extreme if i wanted another cr123 since its brighter


----------



## orcinus (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> The EX10 still trumps the D10 using any chemistry you choose to feed it.



Not really. According to this_is_nascar's last graph, D10 trumps EX10 on AW rechargables. Both, in runtime and brightness.

Besides, think about it - it's been stated and rehashed *numerous *times both share the EXACT same regulation and MCU circuitry. What do you propose would've caused the difference?

Discarding ephemeral attributes like looks, the choice is really pretty simple:
- if 123 batteries are more accessible (and cheap enough) to you, buy EX10
- if AA batteries are more accessible to you, buy D10
- if you'll be feeding your flashlight rechargables, it's all about size and handling (a personal preference)


----------



## LED-holic (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

I vote for D10, because of easy to find AA battery, and it's slimmer and fits in the hand perfectly.

Or just buy both!!


----------



## Lobo (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

I've read all of the threads about the EX10 and D10, and everything points that they are exactly the same light(circuitry etc). A part from the obvious (size and battery choice).

Pros for EX10
- Easier to mod, doesnt need a tool to get access to the head
- SS Bezel
- Shorter(but fatter) 

Pros for D10
- Can run on more available batteries
- Thinner(but longer)

Personally I would go for the D10 since I prefer AA-lights. The size is more ergonomical for me, and it's a big plus IMHO to be able to get batteries virtually anywhere if you're battery suddenly dies on you. And that you can always run 14500 rechargables to get the same performance as the EX10.

But it's all about personal preferences.


----------



## edc3 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Buy both. You'll probably end up doing that anyway. I figured I'd eventually have to get both, but started with a D10. There was a shipping error and I received an EX10. Once I had it I couldn't bring myself to part with it so I ended up ordering another D10. Don't fight the disease - enjoy it! :nana:


----------



## X_Marine (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

CPF philosophy is buy both.. lol

I grabbed an EX10 and it's great except for the Cree donut which I'll need to address when time is available.

GL
X..


----------



## olrac (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



orcinus said:


> It's brighter on primaries. On rechargables, they should be about the same.
> According to this_is_nascar's testing, his D10 was actually slightly brighter than his EX10 on AW rechargables, but that's probably due to individual emitter differences.
> 
> Regarding the rest of the list, they are both fully regulated and looks are highly subjective (i, for one, find the D10 looks nicer and hate the way the SS bezel "interferes" with the minimalism of the light).



I agree with you, given the same fuel the performance is equal (you have to allow that two Leds side by side in a reel can have some differences, Vf for example). the other things like size and shiny bezel are in the eye of the beholder.


----------



## LG&M (Jul 3, 2008)

LowBat said:


> How well does the D10 fit in the Fenix L1D holster?


It fits good in a L1P holster I think the L1D uses the same holder. The more I test (play with) this light the more I like it. Next to designing my own light it is about as good as it gets. :thumbsup:


----------



## olrac (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> Bins are the same on both models. It's the CR123 power the main reason for the EX10's superior performance.



A D10 with a 14500 is the same as CR123, voltage, approx. mAh, and besides the circiutry is designed to give the same output on primary and rechargable, it's the runtime that will vary. I have both and if the D10 is not as bright it is probably due to that particular emitter having a high forward voltage, it could just as easily be the EX10 with that variance as well.


----------



## josean (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> They are not the same when it comes to performance. That was a deal setter for me. Look at those graphics in the Reviews section. The EX10 has an efficience/circuitry/regulation that matches any HDS, RA or custom made flashlight. While the D10 performs like an ordinary AA semi-regulated cheapo light.



Well, The battery in the EX10 gives about 3.6V, so it does not need a boost circuit. The DC/DC conversion (if any) if almost negligible.

If you feed the D10 with a good battery (NiMH) you will need to raise the 1.2 V of the battery to about 3.3V to feed the led. If you use alcaline batteries (1.5V), you will get a poor behaviour under high current demand. If you use carbon-zinc batteries... well, better forget about doing it.

That is why I prefer 2xAA flashlights (2xNiMH), just to have a better efficiency on the boost process (raise from 2.4V to about 3.3V) than just using 1xAA. Sadly the offer of 2xAAA lights is almost nothing.

Last comment: In my country for the price of just one CR123 battery (about 11~12 USD) you can have four pieces of AA NiMH rechargeable batteries. If you also consider that these batteries are not available anywhere, it is easy to understand that the CR123 based lights are not an option for most users.


----------



## matrixshaman (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Battery availability is one big factor for some but if that's not a problem than either the EX10 or flip a coin and buy one now -- you'll probably be able to get the other later but don't worry so much about it - you'll like either one I'm sure. I personally think I like the EX10 better due to the small form factor and bezel. It's really just your personal preferences that come into play. If this wasn't such a cool light I would not have later bought the D10 but it is cool and having a light that can run on 1.2 NiMH, 1.5 Alkalines, 1.6 v Lithiums and 3.6 volt Li-Ions made it attractive too.


----------



## :)> (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

I can't believe that it took until the 14th post to get to the right answer... what has happened to this place:thinking:


----------



## orcinus (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Actually, the OP suggested it in the very first post:



> Is it safe to say that everyone is just going to tell me to buy both? Because I'm starting to think that is the only solution.


----------



## tricker (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



:)> said:


> I can't believe that it took until the 14th post to get to the right answer... what has happened to this place:thinking:



arguing is so much funner:twothumbs


----------



## Niconical (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



josean said:


> In my country for the price of just one CR123 battery (about 11~12 USD)


 
www.batterystation.com

Buying (just for example) 40 x CR123A, including shipping, the cost per battery is 1.25 Euros. 

Just email Kevin and ask for them to be sent in a flat rate envelope.


----------



## alibaba (Jul 3, 2008)

LED-holic said:


> Here is a photo comparing the Zebralight H50 to the D10.
> 
> From left to right: H50, D10, Jet-1 IBS, NDI, L1D Q5


 



Jeez that H50 is small! If that series had a tighter beam I'd have an H50 right now. I know that the "pure flood" beam is useful for some things but I read confortably with my E1B on low so I just must not need flood very much. The beam on my D10 is nearly ideal for a personal torch IMO..............


----------



## alibaba (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Outdoors Fanatic said:


> The EX10 still trumps the D10 using any chemistry you choose to feed it.


 



Easy killa! First off, if that runtime graph is accurate (and I trust no graphs until my specimen duplicated it), and it's one of the few graphs I've seen so means virtually nothing, then TIN either got a really good EX10 or a subpar D10. I've read equal #'s of posts of "my EX10 is brighter than my D10" and the opposite. I only have D10 so cannot confirm but I wouldn't be surprised if the EX is a TAD brighter but not by a large enough margin to base a decision on! Runtime, also, goes to the EX. What it comes down to for me is that the D10 comes really close to (if not equals) the performance of the EX while still giving really good runtime (if you don't use max ALL the time), it can use standard AA's, it performs really well on MiMH's, performs even better on lithium primary and just fits in my hand better. YMMV.......................


----------



## orcinus (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Is everyone else looking at some other graph? What is this? 
this_is_nascar's graph _clearly_ shows D10 as having higher output level.

(i'm not claiming D10 is brighter, i'm just stating _his_ D10 obviously is)


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



edc3 said:


> Buy both. You'll probably end up doing that anyway. I figured I'd eventually have to get both, but started with a D10. There was a shipping error and I received an EX10. Once I had it I couldn't bring myself to part with it so I ended up ordering another D10. Don't fight the disease - enjoy it! :nana:




Sigh.. gonna be time for a second mortgage soon. And maybe a divorce if I'm not careful. lol


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Ok. I've decided I'll be buying an EX10 to start, and likely a D10 will be ordered a day after I've had a chance to play with the EX10. :nana:

I don't think there is any other way around this. Both are very nice looking lights.


----------



## regulator (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Also keep in mind that if you are running the D10 on the 1.5 volt E2 that the regulation curve will be flat if you back off on the output a little bit. It is the batter that is the factor for not holding the flat regulation curve.

If you put in a battery such as a NiMh or a 14500 that can provide the juice, the regulation is flat. 

EX10 on primary will win out. But once you move to the the rechargable lithium cells then it is equal. However, I still believe the 14500 cell has just a bit more capacity than the RCR123 cell in real world - so there! Take a look at Thujone's graph at post #73. Granted it is only one persons ezperience but I have seen other similar results.

And you can run the D10 on NiMH and alkaline which you cannot with the EX10.

Both are good choices - depends how you intend to use the light.


----------



## foxtrot29 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



regulator said:


> Also keep in mind that if you are running the D10 on the 1.5 volt E2 that the regulation curve will be flat if you back off on the output a little bit. It is the batter that is the factor for not holding the flat regulation curve.
> 
> If you put in a battery such as a NiMh or a 14500 that can provide the juice, the regulation is flat.
> 
> ...



Problem already solved. I'll just get both.


----------



## youreacrab (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Easy: get the D10. This is a hot light. I think there are stronger lights in the C123 format. I'm about to buy a bunch of the D10s, so get em while they're still available!


----------



## Lobo (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



orcinus said:


> Is everyone else looking at some other graph? What is this?
> this_is_nascar's graph _clearly_ shows D10 as having higher output level.
> 
> (i'm not claiming D10 is brighter, i'm just stating _his_ D10 obviously is)



No idea. TIN's D10 is brighter and runs longer(not surprising) on 14500 than his EX10 does on either CR123 or RCR123 according to his graphs. If I don't missinterpet something. :thinking:


----------



## Zenster (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

I have both, and compared side by side, the EX10 is a little brighter than the D10 with both on high. However, that's with a CR123 in the one and an ordinary alkaline AA in the other.

I haven't tried any other batteries yet, buy my guess is that the D10 would be just as bright as the EX10 if it were stuffed with a 14500.

Having played with both, I think I prefer the EX10 because while the D10 is a "little" smaller than other lights in it's class, the EX10 is noticeably smaller than my Novatac 120P... and I mean noticeably; not just shorter, but very much smaller in diameter which was a surprise to me since the Novatac and the EX10 use the same battery.

The deal breaker for me, though, is that the runtime of the EX10 is quite longer than the D10 on standard batteries, so that nailed my personal preference. And I say that with some hesitation because I'm one of those people who really, really, really likes AA lights for their ease of sourcing batteries anywhere you may find yourself.

Don't get hung up on the slight brightness difference between the two because while they compare side by side a little different, when used by themselves, you can't really tell the difference. Plus, if you just have to squeeze the most you can out of the D10, just switch to 14500's.

That's my .02 ...


----------



## parnass (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Zenster said:


> I have both, and compared side by side, the EX10 is a little brighter than the D10 with both on high. However, that's with a CR123 in the one and an ordinary alkaline AA in the other.
> ...



Does either become physically warm or hot at maximum output? Does one run warmer/hotter than the other?


----------



## f22shift (Jul 3, 2008)

alibaba said:


> Jeez that H50 is small! If that series had a tighter beam I'd have an H50 right now. I know that the "pure flood" beam is useful for some things but I read confortably with my E1B on low so I just must not need flood very much. The beam on my D10 is nearly ideal for a personal torch IMO..............


 
me too. waiting for version 2 or fenix headlamp.


in addition to tritium pd sleeves i would like to see a longer button on the sleeve so fwd press would be easier. the button is flushed with the bezel requiring the tip of the thumb(uncomfortable) . the beauty of a flat metal button is that it can tailstand on its own.
i would leave the tail bezel design for key rings/lanyard.

in conclusion
protruding button with flush tritium :twothumbs


----------



## kurni (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



foxtrot29 said:


> :sigh:
> 
> Is there no cure for this disease?



There is; $59 for one dose, and you can repeat once. If problem persists, please wait for new formulas to be discovered :tinfoil:


----------



## WadeF (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Lobo said:


> No idea. TIN's D10 is brighter and runs longer(not surprising) on 14500 than his EX10 does on either CR123 or RCR123 according to his graphs. If I don't missinterpet something. :thinking:


 
His D10 is brighter on 14500, but doesn't run as long as his EX10 on a CR123A. Look again. 

My EX10 on R123 is brighter than my D10 on 14500. So you really can't say one is brigher than the other for sure. Depends on the luck of the draw when it comes to the Cree and it's Vf, etc.


----------



## Ty_Bower (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



Zenster said:


> I think I prefer the EX10 because while the D10 is a "little" smaller than other lights in it's class, the EX10 is noticeably smaller than my Novatac 120P... and I mean noticeably; not just shorter, but very much smaller in diameter which was a surprise to me since the Novatac and the EX10 use the same battery.



The Novatac / HDS EDC lights are rather pudgy for a CR123A powered light. You're right, the EX10 is dwarfed by them.





I like my EX10. After I realized I've probably bought about 50 CR123A primary cells in the last three years, and probably only gone through about half of them, the decision to buy the EX10 was pretty easy. It's a lot shorter than the D10, and only a little wider. The circuit is more efficient running off a higher voltage battery. I don't own any 14500 cells, nor any chargers for them. I do own a couple chargers which fit a 16340. I like stainless steel.


----------



## 1dash1 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



olrac said:


> Functionally they are the same. So it comes down to a couple of things:
> 
> 1. Battery preference
> 2. Size
> ...


 
+1


----------



## THE_dAY (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

I have to agree with Outdoors Fanatic regarding the EX10.

Just took a look at TIN's graphs and it really looks like the EX10 with primary 123 cell has the best runtime/brightness ratio by far.

Am I missing something, can the D10 match the EX10 with primary 123 cell?


----------



## LA OZ (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

olrac summarised it nicely. I ordered the D10 because AA size torch is just right for my hand. I like the option of regular AA batteries. I will not modd it and SS bezel is not in my priority list.

I also have 10 14500 batteries at home that is unused .


----------



## 1dash1 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



foxtrot29 said:


> Is it safe to say that everyone is just going to tell me to buy both? Because I'm starting to think that is the only solution. :duh2:


 
Foxtrot29:

I may be alone in this opinion, nevertheless, I recommend that you NOT buy both.

a. You may find that the ONE light that you purchase is the end all to EDC's. It fulfills your every need. (Frankly, twice of perfection doesn't make it doubly perfect. It just makes it twice the cost.)

b. You may find the interface is very good ... but has one or more quirks that make it less than ingenious. Having two lights with precisely the same quirks is doubly irritating.

c. One of the things I appreciated about being forced to choose between the D10 and the EX10 was to discriminate not just the merit of each product, but also how each fit into my needs. The best technology isn't necessarily the best fit into the user's profile.


----------



## kland1234 (Jul 3, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

Tough choice, the easy choice is to buy both, but I picked up the EX10 for now, as I like the shorter profile of the R123 size lights. The UI is great, and since there are great deals on bulk R123 batteries, I am always stocked up, and I prefer the shorter profile. The light fits great in my hand and easily can be operated with one hand. Go EX10, you can't go wrong!


----------



## mkphc (Jul 4, 2008)

*EX 10 pocket/hat brim clip?*

Has anybody come up with a good idea/adaptation of one yet?


----------



## Watchguy (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*

I never caught on to the 123A craze so that's why I opted for the D10. Maybe I'll change my mind.:laughing:


----------



## FsTop (Jul 4, 2008)

*Fat AA lights - why?*

Thr big question to me is why, with a 14mm or 14.5mm battery, and lot of enthusiasm for AA/14500 lights, none of the new offerings are thinner than 19mm?

Come on manufacturers - if you are making a pocket sized AA light, how about a 17.5mm MAXIMUM diameter?

Why are you wasting 2mm of extra size on a EDC light that should not be any fatter than a tube of lipstick? Come on - make it easy to carry, not FAT...


----------



## Lite_me (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: EX 10 pocket/hat brim clip?*

There's one in the works and should be available sometime soon from 4sevens.


----------



## pokkuhlag (Jul 4, 2008)

Yesterday my D10 arrived in the Netherlands. I like the UI and the build quality. The UI is very simple and I like the button only for switching brightness. 

The piston feels real nice compared to the clickie of the NDI. However, I'm a clickie guy and the feel of a SF clickie is still the best. More tactile feedback or tough sounding click noise?

Also the momentary mode feels a bit odd. You can change brightness while on momentary and to low. But it's a pia to change it to high while on momentary. 

Overall, I love this light and the best part is:

I NEVER ORDERED NOR PAID FOR ONE ! ! ! 
The santa came here early this year. Thanks for the mysterious guy who bought this light for me, I'll continue to kiss *** and hopefully gain more freebies.
FREEBIES FTW ! ! !


----------



## Aluminous (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: EX10 or D10 -- losing my mind!!*



kurni said:


> There is; $59 for one dose, and you can repeat once. If problem persists, please wait for new formulas to be discovered :tinfoil:



Well-said :laughing:


----------



## SaturnNyne (Jul 4, 2008)

pokkuhlag said:


> Also the momentary mode feels a bit odd. You can change brightness while on momentary and to low. But it's a pia to change it to high while on momentary.


Actually, in momentary it's even easier to switch to high than to low. All you have to do is start from off, push the piston all the way to the second position with no delay at the first position, and hold it there for about a second. Bam, full power.


----------



## pokkuhlag (Jul 4, 2008)

Thanks for the tip, I was too lazy to read the manual.


----------



## Ty_Bower (Jul 4, 2008)

*Re: Fat AA lights - why?*



FsTop said:


> Thr big question to me is why, with a 14mm or 14.5mm battery, and lot of enthusiasm for AA/14500 lights, none of the new offerings are thinner than 19mm?



Maybe they need the space for the circuitry in the head? Maybe they want to use existing reflector designs, or they feel that a smaller reflector would compromise throw too much? Maybe you need enough thickness not only for the walls, but also for the threading used to attach the head and/or the tail?


----------



## Stromberg (Jul 4, 2008)

Finally my D10 arrived! It took only one full week to ship in Finland, not bad at all. Since so much has already been said about this excellent light, here are my comments very shortly: First I compared D10's brightness to Fenix L2T v2.0(both lights using fresh NiMh's) by ceiling bounce and noticed that L2T was just a bit brighter than D10. Then I changed 14500 in D10 and noticed that D10 was clearly brighter than L2T, which was very nice to know. 

I was bit worried that how would I carry D10 without belt pouch or pocket clip, but then I found out that D10 fits perfectly in my Inova X1 pouch as you can see in this picture:








Needless to say that D10 took its place as my main EDC.


----------



## LowTEC (Jul 4, 2008)

Any comparison with EX10 to P2D Q5 yet? beam shot?


----------



## darkzero (Jul 4, 2008)

LowTEC said:


> Any comparison with EX10 to P2D Q5 yet? beam shot?


 
In the pic, the EX-10 appears alot cooler & the P2D appears warmer than they really are. The cooler tint also appears brighter but is not. My P2D is brighter & I like the tint more but I still like the EX-10 more.

My P2D measured 2238 & my EX-10 measured 1918. That's peak lux @ 1m. Lux @ 1M after 2 minutes, P2D 2196, EX-10 1816.


Left: EX-10 Q5/WC Max R123, Right: P2D Premium Q5 Turbo R123


----------



## LowTEC (Jul 4, 2008)

seems like EX10 has brighter spill or is it just the photo?


----------



## darkzero (Jul 4, 2008)

LowTEC said:


> seems like EX10 has brighter spill or is it just the photo?


 
It's just the cooler tint overpowering the warmer tint of my P2D. The spill on the P2D is a tad brighter. I'll try to get a better beamshot.


----------



## m16a (Jul 4, 2008)

for an AW's P14500 cell and an AW's WF-139 charger to feed my Nitecore D10. Its hungry for power!!!!


----------



## mighty82 (Jul 4, 2008)

What I don't understand is why the D10/EX10 can't sense that it's in max or min mode and start ramping the opposite way. Why do you have to release the button and press again because the light is trying to ramp upwards when it's already in max output?? That's just bad programming!


----------



## orcinus (Jul 4, 2008)

It's to prevent flashaholics from going into a fugue state, watching it ramp up and down and up and down until the battery dies


----------



## edc3 (Jul 4, 2008)

orcinus said:


> It's to prevent flashaholics from going into a fugue state, watching it ramp up and down and up and down until the battery dies





But seriously. They should fix that in the next revision.


----------



## LA OZ (Jul 4, 2008)

D10 is now in my hand. For those that is too afraid to jump on board, I can reassure you that it is one of the best AA light out there at this moment. Nitecore should include a decent holster for it or sell this as an option. Which decent one at Dealextreme could fit this light?


----------



## Ty_Bower (Jul 4, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> What I don't understand is why the D10/EX10 can't sense that it's in max or min mode and start ramping the opposite way. Why do you have to release the button and press again because the light is trying to ramp upwards when it's already in max output?? That's just bad programming!



Yes, this is such an obvious oversight. I've complained about it several times now. I still like the light, regardless, and I'm learning to just deal with it.

If they "fix" this in the next version, I guarantee I'll buy another EX10. I'll ask that they put a GITD o-ring between the reflector and the UCL while they're at it.


----------



## LA OZ (Jul 4, 2008)

This light is almost perfect. I hope Nitecore can improve on them a bit more and it will be the first perfect AA & CR123 lights
in history . All I am asking is to keep everything the same + two levels that we can set and forget. That is not affected by changing to min/max or by ramping up and down in level of brightness during use.


----------



## jimahi (Jul 4, 2008)

*NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 brightness ramping "bug"?*

I have seen this topic touched upon on a few different threads. However, I find this is the most annoying "bug" in my D10 and probably deserves it's own thread. 

In the manual it has a section that says (and this is quoted directly):

*TIPS: 
When the light is on Max or Min brightness level, you depress and hold, it could happen sometimes that the brightness do not change. This is because the Max or Min is the end level of certain brightness ramping.

For example, when the light is on Max, and the brightness ramping is from Min to Max; Or, when the light is on Min, and the brightness ramping is from Max to Min.

At this moment, users need to release, depress and hold the tail cap another time to activate brightness ramping.*

Here is an example of the bug:
1) Turn light on
2) Go to minimum brightness (or some brightness below max)
3) Ramp light up a little and let go
Note that the the next ramp direction will be down since the direction alternates with each ramp command.
4) Turn light off
5) Triple click to turn light on at minimum brightness
6) Now hold button to ramp up 
Notice that nothing happens. This is because the ramping direction variable is still set that the next ramp direction is down. But the light is at minimum level so brightness does not change. You have to release and press again and it will start to ramp up. It's frustrating because you hold it for a few seconds until realizing that nothing is happening. You may even start pressing it harder at first thinking that the switch has not made contact (and causing a sore thumb  )

This example is based on a common use case. I want to turn the light on at the minimum level and ramp it up to the brightness that I need. (Note that you can also reproduce the bug by skipping step 4 and double clicking on step 5 to jump to minimum). 

There is a similar problem in the other direction. If you jump to max and the next ramping direction is up, it won't ramp down on the first ramp command after the jump to Max.

I'm wondering if this is a bug (oversight) or design limitation. My guess is that the microcontroller has a variable tracking ramping direction and either there wasn't enough space to put in the ramping conditional checks, the microcontroller is not sophisticated enough to do the checks, or someone just overlooked it. Seems like it should be fairly simple to check "If ramping command received and already at minimum brightness, then ramp up". Or, another way to fix it is "when jumping to minimum brightness, also set ramping direction variable to up". One possible explanation is that the shortcuts were put in at the last minute without fully thinking thru the rest of the UI.

As long as you never use the jump to max or min shortcuts, you will probably not see the problem.

IMHO, this is a black eye in the otherwise quite elegant UI of the SmartPD. I know I ran into it pretty quickly and I'm guessing many others have also. 

Jim


----------



## CM (Jul 4, 2008)

Ty_Bower said:


> Yes, this is such an obvious oversight. I've complained about it several times now. I still like the light, regardless, and I'm learning to just deal with it.
> 
> If they "fix" this in the next version, I guarantee I'll buy another EX10. I'll ask that they put a GITD o-ring between the reflector and the UCL while they're at it.



There's probably a logical reason for it and has nothing to do with "bad programming". If I want to ramp to the max, I don't want it to hit the max and come back down. That is, I do not want to guess when the ramp down begins. I want it to "stick" to the extreme (min or max).


----------



## DavidD (Jul 5, 2008)

CM said:


> There's probably a logical reason for it and has nothing to do with "bad programming". If I want to ramp to the max, I don't want it to hit the max and come back down. That is, I do not want to guess when the ramp down begins. I want it to "stick" to the extreme (min or max).



I understand your logic, but you could more easily use the short cut to get to max, if that is your intention.

Personally, I am not going to ask for any changes. I am now use to how it works, and for me, it works fine.

If they happen to come out with a version 2, that addresses some of the issues that have been brought up, I might upgrade. Then again, I might not. It is pretty awesome just the way it is.


----------



## Thujone (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 ramping "bug"?*

Would it be nice if the shortcuts to min and max reset the ramping flag to inc or dec? Yes. Does it impact the torches ability to service the users needs? No. Would this keep me from recommending the light? No.

I do not mean to be harsh but this is how I see it. Clearly David and Nitecore were aware of the 'bug', they warned us about it. I am guessing if it was quick easy fix (Which I believe should be unless they are out of space) that they would have fixed it instead of noting it in the manual. So I see no need to repeatedly state what is written in the manual as though no one already knows about it.


----------



## jimahi (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 brightness ramping "bug"?*

I think it is a great light too and it is my favorite out of all my lights. It took me a little while to figure out why and when the ramping didn't happen - and I wanted to post this so others can have a better understanding. The manual doesn't really go into much detail.


----------



## LA OZ (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 ramping "bug"?*

OK guys, could someone list all the minor issues in one post so Nitecore could rectify these problems in their next version.


----------



## 45/70 (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 ramping "bug"?*



LA OZ said:


> OK guys, could someone list all the minor issues in one post so Nitecore could rectify these problems in their next version.



I don't know OZ. Personally, I don't think they really need to change anything. If they implemented some of the suggestions I've seen, I think there would be just as many people complaining about the changes. You can't make everybody happy, you just can't.

I'd like to see the EX10 with a reflector that is a bit bigger. It's slightly larger in diameter than the D10, so it'd be feasible. That would give it a bit more throw than the D10 and it could loose the screwy looking bezel too! Just kidding, as I know a lot of people like the bezel. :naughty: Just proving my point, you can't make everybody happy.

There are also a lot of suggestions that would, in effect, make the UI more complex. That would defeat 4 7's original plan. This is supposed to be a basic "user" light, not a Rolls Royce!

Again, my vote, just leave it the way it is.

Dave


----------



## Stromberg (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 ramping "bug"?*



45/70 said:


> Again, my vote, just leave it the way it is.
> 
> Dave



I agree. These are all opinions, but think about it guys: 47's has come up with excellent new product with simple yet flexible UI. If he decides to bring some "updated" version, I very much hope that it would be totally new model and leave the original D10 as it is. Or maybe he or even some third party manufacturer could make some kind of user replaceable upgrade or accessory part that would fulfill all wishes of those, who don't like the UI currently. Don't mean to offence anybody but maybe it's time to enjoy of new lighting product rather than be picky of how the UI should or shouldn't work..?

Ps. I've also noticed that ramping "bug" but it isn't compromising my typical flashlight usage nor reducing the usefulness of D10 in any way, so I consider that issue insignificant.


----------



## lengendcpf (Jul 5, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 ramping "bug"?*



Stromberg said:


> I agree. These are all opinions, but think about it guys: 47's has come up with excellent new product with simple yet flexible UI. If he decides to bring some "updated" version, I very much hope that it would be totally new model and leave the original D10 as it is. Or maybe he or even some third party manufacturer could make some kind of user replaceable upgrade or accessory part. Don't mean to offence anybody but maybe it's time to enjoy of new lighting product rather than be picky of how the UI should or shouldn't work..?
> 
> Ps. I've also noticed that ramping "bug" but it isn't compromising my typical flashlight usage nor reducing the usefulness of D10 in any way, so I consider that issue insignificant.


 
I second that.
Cause I don't want to spend money on D10 ver 2.

But hey, there's going to be E10, F10, etc..


----------



## DoubleDutch (Jul 5, 2008)

My D10 arrived yesterday. I love the light:

- Very good machining (agressive knurling) and smooth, somewhat stiff operation. LED is well centered.
- Very easy to get used to the UI. Yes, the ramping direction needs some getting used to. But the memory for the last used brightness is very functional. All in all it keeps the UI just as simple as it should be.
- Very nice low low (lower than my Fauxton on one battery).
- Colour is very nice: cooler than my Civictor; warmer than my LOD Q4.
- Excellent throw and brightness on NiMh's. Will get 14500's, though.
- It fits my Civictor holster perfectly.

This is a very nice step forward in my EDC, which I further enriched with a Buck Parallex Frame-Lock 318 folder.

Kees


----------



## Jarl (Jul 5, 2008)

DoubleDutch said:


> My D10 arrived yesterday. I love the light:



Arg. Mine still hasn't arrived 

It's driving me mad!


----------



## orcinus (Jul 5, 2008)

Mine neither... Waaaaaaaaaah


----------



## mighty82 (Jul 5, 2008)

The switch is okay, but I don't really like the feel of it. It's too damn hard to press. After a day of playing with it both my thumbs hurts. And every time I pick up another flashlight i'm afraid i'm going to crush the switch, because I am used to having to press so hard :duh2:

Also, I don't believe the low mode is 5 lumens. If that's 5 lumens my E0 is 30, at least oo: The E0 is MUCH brigher in ceiling bounce, the difference is like "can't see anything - can see everything". A low low is a good thing, but even 60 hours runtime seems short for the small amount of lights coming out at lowest mode. The LF5XT's low mode is many times brighter.

From left to right, E0-D10-LF5XT. D10 and LF5XT on 14500, E0 on alkaline.


----------



## shaneotool (Jul 5, 2008)

Am I the only one having problems with the "Smart" PD system?? 

I have the EX10 and sometimes it operates in momentary mode when the bezel is tightened down. Sometimes a button press wont turn it off. Very frustrating to use it as I have to unscrew it to turn it off. Sometime when I screw it down it wont turn on either.

I may need to send it back. I'd rather use the foolproof fenix twisty interface than this one which is prone to fail on me.


----------



## BillMPL (Jul 5, 2008)

Well, I just received an EX10... unfortunately I ordered a D10.  

Seems like a very nice light, but a bit too small for me. I'm glad I ordered the D10, now if only I can get it.  

David???


----------



## enLIGHTenment (Jul 5, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> From left to right, E0-D10-LF5XT. D10 and LF5XT on 14500, E0 on alkaline.



Looks like Nitecore could learn a few things about beam quality from both Fenix and Liteflux. The D10's tight hotspot has less practical utility in an EDC light than do the broad hotspot beams from the E0 and LF5XT.


----------



## mighty82 (Jul 5, 2008)

enLIGHTenment said:


> Looks like Nitecore could learn a few things about beam quality from both Fenix and Liteflux. The D10's tight hotspot has less practical utility in an EDC light than do the broad hotspot beams from the E0 and LF5XT.


The hotspot isn't really that small. It's bigger than the hotspot of the fenix L1D or any other edc I have. It just looks that way because the 2 other lights are much brighter and get's over exposed. The LF5XT has the smallest hotspot by far, but it blends gradually over into the very bright spill, making it perfect for edc. It's gives you both a "wall of light" and a bright hotspot at the same time. But there is NO way the D10 is 5 lumens. That's pretty obvious. I don't even think it's 1 lumen.


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## Lite_me (Jul 5, 2008)

shaneotool said:


> Am I the only one having problems with the "Smart" PD system??
> 
> I have the EX10 and sometimes it operates in momentary mode when the bezel is tightened down. Sometimes a button press wont turn it off. Very frustrating to use it as I have to unscrew it to turn it off. Sometime when I screw it down it wont turn on either.
> 
> I may need to send it back. I'd rather use the foolproof fenix twisty interface than this one which is prone to fail on me.


No, you're not the only one having problems. It sounds like a small percentage of the D10/EX10's develop this mode or switching anomaly. They don't all exhibit the same problem. Here's a link to a 4sevens post suggesting a remedy. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2539714&postcount=401

In addition to this, I've suggested adding some DeoxIt to the split ring as a form of lubricant. It deoxidizes too, imagine that! I'd also experiment with rotating the split in the ring to another position and making sure the ring slides freely up and down against the spring. I had to do this to mine and it's been working perfectly ever since.


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## alibaba (Jul 5, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> The switch is okay, but I don't really like the feel of it. It's too damn hard to press. After a day of playing with it both my thumbs hurts. And every time I pick up another flashlight i'm afraid i'm going to crush the switch, because I am used to having to press so hard :duh2:


 



Well, I dropped my D10 onto cement from about 5-6 feet Thursday and the switch loosened up just a bit and now it's perfect (and yes, the light works just fine) so you could always try that . Or just clean it really well and relube it with something thinner (as recommended by lots of others). As another poster also pointed out, regarding the UI, you cannot please everyone and this is absosmurfly correct. The ramping seems to be the big issue but when I need a level in a hurry it's either min or max. If I need something in-between chances are it can wait for the 5-6 seconds that it might take to reverse the ramping direction. If you cannot spare <10 seconds out of your day then I feel bad for you and recommend you watch "the gods must be crazy" ASAP!  Bottom line, this is a fantastic product for a truly fair price and once you're aware of the so-called quirks with the UI it is still quick and easy to get whatever level you want. 3-thumbs up (I'm an alien) for NC and 4-7's!!


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## mighty82 (Jul 5, 2008)

The switch itself is not stiff at all. The resistance you are feeling are the battery pushing against the spring in the bottom of the "piston". The battery is pushed back every time you push the piston forward. The problem I had at the beginning was that I used a too long battery, so it bottomed out pushing the spring flat before the piston could get all the way forward. So the longer battery you use, the stiffer the "switch" will be to press. The air pressure in the tube will also give some resistance. Try sealing the hole at the bottom of the light while trying to pull the piston out . At least I know it's water tight


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## swxb12 (Jul 5, 2008)

I was a little too harsh on the comment regarding the knurling, but it is indeed the most aggressive out of all of my lights. I'll see if I can get a macro comparo of knurling.


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## skalomax (Jul 5, 2008)

couldn't help it.
Ordered one.

First time ordering from 4sevens, won't be my last. 
Great service and fast shipping.


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## shaneotool (Jul 5, 2008)

Lite_me said:


> No, you're not the only one having problems. It sounds like a small percentage of the D10/EX10's develop this mode or switching anomaly. They don't all exhibit the same problem. Here's a link to a 4sevens post suggesting a remedy. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2539714&postcount=401
> 
> In addition to this, I've suggested adding some DeoxIt to the split ring as a form of lubricant. It deoxidizes too, imagine that! I'd also experiment with rotating the split in the ring to another position and making sure the ring slides freely up and down against the spring. I had to do this to mine and it's been working perfectly ever since.


 
Thanks for the tips - at least I'm not the only one with trouble. I've been jacking with the light for a while and I just can't get it to function reliably. I've used the only lube I have, breakfree, and spread the split ring as far as I can. The ring just seems to get stuck and won't pop back out.

I guess I'll have to call on monday and see if I can swap it for something else - which is too bad because I love the size, look, and idea of the light.


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## Beamhead (Jul 5, 2008)

Did you try, removing the battery and put the head back on, loosening the bezel ring almost off and hold the piston up tight while re tightening the bezel ring?

That re seats the LE/pill and takes care of most contact issues.


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## geek4christ (Jul 6, 2008)

mighty82 said:


> The hotspot isn't really that small. It's bigger than the hotspot of the fenix L1D or any other edc I have. It just looks that way because the 2 other lights are much brighter and get's over exposed...



I've really come to enjoy the wide hotspot of the D10. I find that it is more usable for my purposes than the tight hotspots on many other lights. My purposes being indoors stuff and close to medium range outdoors stuff.


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## LED-holic (Jul 6, 2008)

enLIGHTenment said:


> Looks like Nitecore could learn a few things about beam quality from both Fenix and Liteflux. The D10's tight hotspot has less practical utility in an EDC light than do the broad hotspot beams from the E0 and LF5XT.


That could not be more wrong, at least regarding the E0.

Here is a case where you really need to see the beamshots in person, as the camera is displaying it completely different from real life.

I have the E0, it's nowhere comparable to the D10 in low lumens or the beamshot. The camera really is not telling the truth in this case.

Also, keep in mind the E0 does not have a reflector. You simply can't compare a E0 to a D10, they are not the same type of light.

Despite the photo, the D10 is far more useful than it appears. The low beam is very handy, perfect for discrete lighting.


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## LED-holic (Jul 6, 2008)

alibaba said:


> Well, I dropped my D10 onto cement from about 5-6 feet Thursday and the switch loosened up just a bit and now it's perfect (and yes, the light works just fine) so you could always try that . Or just clean it really well and relube it with something thinner (as recommended by lots of others). As another poster also pointed out, regarding the UI, you cannot please everyone and this is absosmurfly correct. The ramping seems to be the big issue but when I need a level in a hurry it's either min or max. If I need something in-between chances are it can wait for the 5-6 seconds that it might take to reverse the ramping direction. If you cannot spare <10 seconds out of your day then I feel bad for you and recommend you watch "the gods must be crazy" ASAP!  Bottom line, this is a fantastic product for a truly fair price and once you're aware of the so-called quirks with the UI it is still quick and easy to get whatever level you want. 3-thumbs up (I'm an alien) for NC and 4-7's!!


LOL good post.

After having used my D10 and my Fenix L1D Q5 for several days, sometimes concurrently, I can definitely say I love using the D10 more than the L1D Q5. In fact I have begun to leave my L1D Q5 at home or in the bag and just use the D10 in most cases.

I'm debating about buying a 2nd D10 since I love this light so much. It's so useful and practical. Maybe I'll wait for version 2.0 though. But I will soon own D10 #2, these lights are that great!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## TooManyGizmos (Jul 6, 2008)

..
:huh:.. alibaba ,

When you dropped yours 6 feet - you probably compressed the battery spring inside the piston. That would make the button easier to press.

AW 14500's withOUT the protruding + end nipples would make the button easier to press. Didn't he sell those at one time ...... b-4 we all requested + nipples on our batt's.
.


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## yekim (Jul 6, 2008)

TooManyGizmos said:


> ..
> :huh:.. alibaba ,
> 
> When you dropped yours 6 feet - you probably compressed the battery spring inside the piston. That would make the button easier to press.
> ...



I pulled the spring out of the piston and nipped about half a turn off and then spread it back out so it would fit back snug. Little easier to use and works with my trustfire 14500's with a nipple just fine, they were tough to use before.


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## Ritch (Jul 6, 2008)

My EX10 has not arrived until yet. I have a fenix P2D D Q2 and some P1 D's. For their size they are good throwers imho. Is the EX10 in comparison a good thrower, too?

Thanks
Richard


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## LA OZ (Jul 6, 2008)

The D10 I have got could not throw as well as the E2L.


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## LED-holic (Jul 6, 2008)

My D10 throws much better than my L1D. I really am impressed with its throw.


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## Rzr800 (Jul 6, 2008)

For owners like myself who would afterwards test their Li-ion if it ever indeed reached the built-in overdischarge protection limitation (sans any built-in protection on the light itself):

#*3* 




06-09-2008, 09:54 PM 


SilverFox




Rechargeable Moderator




Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bellingham WA
Posts: 9,378 





*Re: Li-ion Cell use in Flashlight -> allow "auto shutdown" or ?????* 
Hello Dave,

*It is believed that you can improve the cycle life of your cells by not running them down the the protection circuit low voltage cut off each time.*

*It seems the best cycle life comes if you only use about 80% of the capacity of the cell. There are times when it is easy to figure out how much you have used the light, and other times when it is more difficult. Fortunately, Li-Ion cells enjoy being frequently charged.*

*I would suggest that you charge frequently, and if you happen to bump up against the low voltage cut off a time or two, I wouldn't worry about it too much.*

*Some cells are more robust than others, so it is hard to set a hard fast rule. The RC people set their low voltage cut off at 3.2 volts per cell. Our Li-Ion cells have the cut off set at around 2.75 volts. I think it is safe to say that anything below this is over discharging, however the exact value of the cut off seems to be in a little bit of a gray area.*

*Have fun with your light, recharge your batteries often, and try to limit your use to around 80% of the capacity of the battery, and you should enjoy long life from your batteries.*

*Tom*

#*4* 



06-30-2007, 04:07 AM 


DM51




Under Water Moderator




Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Area DM51
Posts: 4,954 





*Re: Lowest voltage on unprotected cell...* 
*"...If you are using R123s, the maximum safe current will be 1.5A, but for continuous use a better limit would be 1.2A ...*
*The voltage to aim for with a Li-Ion cell is 3.5v at rest (ie after discharge). Under load, a cell that goes a little below 3.0v during use can rebound to 3.5v at rest, depending on the load. *

*If the cell is taken down to 2.3v under load, it probably won’t even rebound to 3.0v. If it is reading below 3.0v at rest, real damage has been done to the cell, and it may not be possible to recover it. *

*If it is reading only 2.3v at rest, the best thing to do would be to get rid of it straight away..."*


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## matrixshaman (Jul 6, 2008)

For those who are wimpy thumbs :laughing: - well that is if you think your new D10 or EX10 is too hard to push I've got a couple suggestions. 

But first I'll just say I've finally tried mine out at night in my jungle of sorts (heavy forested area with tall trees and all sorts of heavy green growth) and I'm seriously impressed with both the brightness and the beam shape. It's a great balance of hotspot and spill and incredibly bright! To heck with any white wall hunting - this is the light for me in my playground. 

Now for the easy fix for some harder pressing lights. I've got both the D10 and the EX10 and noticed the D10 was way easier to press. I've tried different batteries and different lengths in them and noticed that DOES have some effect so part of it is the spring strength. For that you can either tweak the spring a bit or replace it with a lighter duty one. I've done this on a couple lights and it is an easy fix for various problems - just don't overdo it or you'll find a flicker problem. 

But the easiest and quickest way to fix some of the 'stiffness' I found was to pull the piston out and completely clean off the blue pasty gel. I'm not sure what it is but it's thick enough I believe that it is providing some of the resistance. I then lubed the Oring all the way around (since this is not twisting in like it would on a screw in part) with the PTFE lube I got from Radio Shack in the Precision needle tip oiler. Other companies also make this same thing - it's a thin liquid with Teflon and I've come to use it on nearly all my lights and it has proven to make things much smoother than any other lube I've tried. It made an obvious difference on my EX10 which is now much lighter in touch. Doing this and possibly a little fine tuning with your spring can make this switch a real delight to use.


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## mighty82 (Jul 6, 2008)

Yes.. Cleaning all the lube off and re-lubing it with silicone grease was the first thing I did. Even before I put a battery in it. The grease was the worst grease I can imagine for this use, so this was a must. The piston is still too stiff to push though, but it has something to do with the air pressure in front of the o-ring. There is very little air in there with a battery in it, so it's hard to compress the little air that is there.


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## mkphc (Jul 6, 2008)

Has anyone figured out a suitable hat brim/ pocket clip for the ex10 yet?


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## yekim (Jul 6, 2008)

The clip from a Gerber Infinity Ultra fits okay. 7777 says that there is a clip project on the works for these lights.


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## mkphc (Jul 6, 2008)

thanks!
where do I find the gerber light? locally? or internet?


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## carrot (Jul 6, 2008)

Internet, although REI is known to stock them. Cabela's might, too.


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## Ty_Bower (Jul 6, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 ramping "bug"?*



Stromberg said:


> Ps. I've also noticed that ramping "bug" but it isn't compromising my typical flashlight usage nor reducing the usefulness of D10 in any way, so I consider that issue insignificant.



Issues don't have to be significant to be annoying. Usually, it's the smallest issues that irritate me the most. It's not a "bug". They've documented it in the owner's manual. Now it's a "feature". I still think the programmer goofed somewhere, and they made a few thousand microprocessors before someone noticed. Rather than throw out all the parts, they just printed a couple lines in the manual. It's still stupid the way it works. Double clicking to low should set the ramp direction to increase. 

I was wrong in my earlier estimate that it would go the wrong direction 50% of the time. It actually is wrong 100% of the time. I double click to low, then try to ramp it up. It decides it wants to ramp down. I try again and succeed in ramping up this time. Later, I double click to low. Of course, the last time I used it, I ramped up. So now it wants to ramp down again. But, I just doubled clicked it to low, so it does nothing. Annoying.


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## mighty82 (Jul 6, 2008)

*Re: NiteCore SmartPD D10/EX10 ramping "bug"?*



Ty_Bower said:


> Issues don't have to be significant to be annoying. Usually, it's the smallest issues that irritate me the most. It's not a "bug". They've documented it in the owner's manual. Now it's a "feature". I still think the programmer goofed somewhere, and they made a few thousand microprocessors before someone noticed. Rather than throw out all the parts, they just printed a couple lines in the manual. It's still stupid the way it works. Double clicking to low should set the ramp direction to increase.


I think they meant it to be a ramping only light first. That way it works perfectly. Every time you ramp to min or max it will always start ramping the opposite way. They didn't take that into account when they added the shortcuts to low and high. They light remembers the last way it was ramping only. Jumping to low high doesn't change that "memory".


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## Ty_Bower (Jul 6, 2008)

You could be right. I don't think anyone is asking for it to turn around and reverse direction in the middle of a ramp if it hits either end. Keep that part the way it is. Just make it so that double click does two things instead of only one - set output to minimum, AND set ramp direction to increase. Similar deal for click, click & hold.

I'll shut up now. People are tired of hearing the whiners complain about this nit picky issue. Really, it is a very fine light. It's just a shame the ball got dropped on this minor annoyance. It should have been avoidable.


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## Duc Nguyen (Jul 6, 2008)

WASF said:


> My D10 gets hot on high faster and hotter than any of my fenix ????
> what about yours ???


 I check the temp on the D10 and EX10 by let them stay on for 10 minutes and temp as below
D10 around 85F
EX10 around 103F.

Duc


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## kaichu dento (Jul 6, 2008)

Ty_Bower said:


> You could be right. I don't think anyone is asking for it to turn around and reverse direction in the middle of a ramp if it hits either end. Keep that part the way it is. Just make it so that double click does two things instead of only one - set output to minimum, AND set ramp direction to increase. Similar deal for click, click & hold.
> 
> I'll shut up now. People are tired of hearing the whiners complain about this nit picky issue. Really, it is a very fine light. It's just a shame the ball got dropped on this minor annoyance. It should have been avoidable.


Doesn't sound like whining so much as constructive thinking at work. 

I for one don't agree with the thinking that no matter what they do someone will have a complaint. Even if it were true some complaints are realistically founded and others are genuine nitpicking and I believe that for them to make the simple changes you've suggested would have most people perfectly happy.


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## lnh (Jul 6, 2008)

At first I thought the documented "bug" was random as it would sometimes work as expected and sometimes not. After playing around with the light a bit I can predict under what conditions the "bug" will show it's face...

If you double-click and click-hold from min to max or max to min you will always need a second click (i.e. the "bug") if you try to ramp.

However, if you are at either min or max (via the shortcuts) and then start ramping in the opposite direction and release, and then follow that by the shortcut for the direction you were heading, the press and hold after the shortcut will work as expected (i.e. not need the second click).

For example, if your:

1) at min and start ramping up (this might require the second click depending on how you got there) and release while it's ramping up,

2) and then click-hold to shortcut to max,

3) you will find the light will start ramping down from max upon the first push-hold after the go to max shortcut.

However, if in step 1) above you add a second ramp that takes you back towards minimum and follow that by a shortcut to max it will require a second click to start ramping down again.

Not sure understanding this makes much difference, but at least I know it's not random.


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## yekim (Jul 7, 2008)

lnh said:


> At first I thought the documented "bug" was random as it would sometimes work as expected and sometimes not. After playing around with the light a bit I can predict under what conditions the "bug" will show it's face...
> 
> If you double-click and click-hold from min to max or max to min you will always need a second click (i.e. the "bug") if you try to ramp.
> 
> ...




Does anyone read the instruction manual?


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## yaesumofo (Jul 7, 2008)

All this may be true but you can't use AA batteries in the EX10 version of the unit. That is the one reason to get it.
My reality is that I have a whole bunch of 123a based lights and do not really need another. I am short on AA based lights though. I don't plan on dunking my light into standing water for 10 minutes though at least not before checking and re-lubing the O-rings first anyway.
I really bought this light in order to see how the Pd's interface is implemented in this light. 
I am happy to see the PD interface being used in flashlights other than Don's

BTW I have used many of my McluxIII as well as TI based Pd's in the drink (for hours at a time) with never a leak of any kind.
Yaesumofo




streetmaster said:


> I agree 100%! There are many reasons to choose the EX10. The easy open bezel, not to mention the cool stainless steel. And longer burn time and a bit more brightness as reported by ppl who already have theirs.


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## darkzero (Jul 7, 2008)

Hmm, maybe I should get a D10? I don't believe in AA lights anymore. They were cool years ago but every single AA light I had did not get used anymore because of their size. And the ones I do use have 14500s in them. 

I understand their convience since AAs are readily available but I was never in a situtaion where I had to buy batteries for my flashlight in an emergency. Come on now, I'm a flashaholic, of course I'd have another light accessable somewhere if one were to let me down. 1AA lights were never appealing to me because of their brightness & I rather have a 16340 light rather than a 1400 light because of the size. 

Maybe a D10 will convince me otherwise but I doubt my EX-10 will let it. Anyone else have any good reasons to buy a AA size light?


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## lnh (Jul 7, 2008)

yekim said:


> Does anyone read the instruction manual?



yekim,

I assume your referring to yourself with this comment. Or maybe the problem is you didn't really read and understand my note.

The manual says, "When the light is on Max or Min brightness level, you depress and hold, it could happen *sometimes *(emphasis added) that the brightness do not change..."

To make it easier for you: 

The manual suggests this anomaly happens "sometimes" but the real trigger for the documented "bug" is that you've reached min or max via a shortcut AND you've either not ramped at all prior to the shortcut OR your last ramp was in the direction counter to the direction of the shortcut.

Maybe your manual is different than mine, but that level of information isn't in the manual.


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## yekim (Jul 7, 2008)

lnh said:


> yekim,
> 
> I am an assume your referring to yourself with this comment. Or maybe the problem is you didn't really read and understand my note.
> 
> ...



I was pointing out that the reasons for this are clearly in the manual and that it is not some great discovery to be expounded upon like the revealing of the Rosetta stone. So the Manual says "Sometimes", it also say "Remove battery before longtime storage" and "which may cause damages to orings". 

Your calling into question my intelligence and taking a condescending tone with your reply do nothing to bolster your argument.


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## alibaba (Jul 7, 2008)

darkzero said:


> I understand their convience since AAs are readily available but I was never in a situtaion where I had to buy batteries for my flashlight in an emergency. Come on now, I'm a flashaholic, of course I'd have another light accessable somewhere if one were to let me down. 1AA lights were never appealing to me because of their brightness & I rather have a 16340 light rather than a 1400 light because of the size.
> Maybe a D10 will convince me otherwise but I doubt my EX-10 will let it.
> 
> Anyone else have any good reasons to buy a AA size light?


 



For me at least (but I've heard it from several others on CPF) it just fits my hand better. I'm 6'4" so have large hands but I'd imagine just from the specs that the EX10 might be a bit awkward to use in a "tactical" grip with the tailswitch due to it's short length. Maybe not but the D10 just fits my hand perfectly. The EX does have longer runtime and is a bit brighter (unless D10's on 14500) but the D is close enough in both catagories to make it a non-issue to me. Still waiting/looking for a pocket clip tho.................


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## mighty82 (Jul 7, 2008)

The EX10 and D10's switches are too hard to push if you hold it in a "cigar grip", you will just push the light forward and grind the skin of your fingers, you need to have a proper grip arount the whole body of the flashlight. And the EX10 is too short to hold in a normal grip, so the D10 is the light for me. Also, 14500 batteries gives a bit longer runtime than rcr123's. And of course the D10 has a smaller diameter.


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## geek4christ (Jul 7, 2008)

darkzero said:


> Hmm, maybe I should get a D10? I don't believe in AA lights anymore. They were cool years ago but every single AA light I had did not get used anymore because of their size. And the ones I do use have 14500s in them.
> 
> I understand their convience since AAs are readily available but I was never in a situtaion where I had to buy batteries for my flashlight in an emergency. Come on now, I'm a flashaholic, of course I'd have another light accessable somewhere if one were to let me down. 1AA lights were never appealing to me because of their brightness & I rather have a 16340 light rather than a 1400 light because of the size.
> 
> Maybe a D10 will convince me otherwise but I doubt my EX-10 will let it. Anyone else have any good reasons to buy a AA size light?



What alibaba said about it fitting better in the hand. I find that lights as short as the EX10 feel weird because one side of my hand will be spilling off to the side.

Also the AA version is just a bit slimmer. That's not an issue to some people, but sometimes I just want a slimmer light in my pocket.

Oh, and Thujone has a nice graph showing that his AW 14500s have more energy in them than his 16340s.

EDIT: Mighty82 is faster than I am.


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## abvidledUK (Jul 7, 2008)

Personally I'd rather have two torches, one per output level, low & high.

Simple on/off switch.

The lower output level is usually AAA, not requiring the larger capacity of AA or CR123, and thinner.

The higher output level, I prefer AA or CR123, easy to differentiate from AAA in pocket.

Always same level, no problem with ramping, and each acts as a spare for the other.


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## matrixshaman (Jul 7, 2008)

Thujone and I had some discussion about that 14500 vs. 16340 power. I still wonder why both batteries are rated the same mah by AW and some other sellers.


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## Thujone (Jul 7, 2008)

matrixshaman said:


> I still wonder why both batteries are rated the same mah by AW and some other sellers.



Same here.. I think he could rate the latest batch of 16430 cells as 550mah maybe even stretch the truth to 600, and the 14500 as 750. No idea why all rcr123 cells are so over rated.


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## lnh (Jul 7, 2008)

yekim said:


> I was pointing out that the reasons for this are clearly in the manual and that it is not some great discovery to be expounded upon like the revealing of the Rosetta stone. So the Manual says "Sometimes", it also say "Remove battery before longtime storage" and "which may cause damages to orings".
> 
> Your calling into question my intelligence and taking a condescending tone with your reply do nothing to bolster your argument.



yekim,

I apologize for the tone, but I was adding a bit of information not in the manual with only good intentions at heart. Maybe it doesn't interest you, which is fine, but the tone of your original note set me off and was factually inaccurate (that additional data isn't in the manual). When I experience weird behavior of electronics which isn't consistent I like to figure it out a little bit.

Maybe we see things differently, but the manual saying "sometimes" and it's overall language doesn't give any of us the conditions when this "sometimes" happens nor the "reason" for why it's like this. It just vaguely documents it's behavior. The itsy bit of additional data I provided doesn't provide a reason either; just a better understanding of what conditions cause the behavior.

I do like the lights a great deal, but would prefer it's UI not have this "sometimes" thing.


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## mighty82 (Jul 7, 2008)

I thought the reason was pretty obvious to everyone. When you have been ramping up it will try ramping down no matter if you jump to low or high. If you have been ramping down it will try to ramp up. No magic here.. The only question is WHY they havent done anything about this "issue". No manual should have the word "sometimes" in it.


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## jag-engr (Jul 7, 2008)

I just got my EX10, and it is dim. The HI setting is about like the turbo on my P2D CE, and my P2D RB100 is noticeably brighter. I'm going to try a different battery this evening. Have I gotten a defective light?

The switch is stiff and sometimes doesn't want to work as a "clicky", especially when trying to switch to low or high, and sometimes when turning it on. It's almost like the light is trying to stay is "momentary on" mode. I'm using Titanium-brand primary cells, but I don't think cell length is an issue, as the bezel screws down all the way. Do I need to go to Surefire primaries? What do I need to do?

The UI is _very_ intuitive and I really like the light. The fit and finish are remarkable, and the knurling on mine is perfect - not too smooth and not too rough. I suspect that cleaning and lubing the light would help a lot with the switch stiffness, but I'm not sure that it will do much for the clicky issue. I seem to recall a previous post where someone adjust the contact ring on the back of the emitter. Could this be the problem?


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## WadeF (Jul 7, 2008)

jag-engr, try an AW R123 3.7v for max output.


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## Thujone (Jul 7, 2008)

Looks like the D10 is sold out  Was going to grab one to go along with the Ex10..


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## 4sevens (Jul 7, 2008)

Thujone said:


> Looks like the D10 is sold out  Was going to grab one to go along with the Ex10..


Theres a shipment on the way


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## StandardBattery (Jul 7, 2008)

OK due to 4Seven's super fast shipping (does he drive truck?) I already have a D10 in my hands (not to mention some other nice lights).

I'll focus on the UI, as that is what interested me the most for this 1AA format light.

With just a Pass or Fail grade possible; 

UI: *Fail*

*Details:* 
- Required switch force "OK" for 'light' use involving mostly on/off and maybe 1 ramp or shortcut. A little to high when your playing around alot with the light. An overall decreasing of force required would be a good thing.

- Memory, overall I feel this light would be better without any memory with the existing UI, it might be vixable. Reminds me of the Jet CL-E (v2); Sounds cool, but in practice is very annoying because other than on/off every function changes the memory. Depending on usage senario it works, but as a general feature it fails. Since they have a cpu they should have a command to enable or disable the memory function as a minimum. They could start re-engineering with having shortcuts from off not alter the memory. There is just so much wrong with this feature unless you use it as a single level light.

- UI/Shortcut/Ramp Glitch... as stated in other posts this is crazy... I'm not sure why this was not caught before release and dealt with. Seems simple enough, even easier if short-cuts didn't alter memory at all.

- I feel shortcut for 'low' from "on" (double-click), should be assigned to Max, or better yet click-hold for Hi (kind of a standard) and double click for low).

- Shortcuts from off too many clicks. My preference Click for on, click-hold for Max.

Well there are my high lights, I'll spare you comments on Momentary and the other nit-picks.

I had high hopes, but I'm sorry to say I greatly prefer standard Fenix interfaces, not to mention Novatac (my current favorite for most applications).

Thermal management; after 5min on max in 25.4 deg C environment the head is at 39.4deg, feels quite warm. During operation the light was in candle mode, but even when grasped I seemed to really notice the heat.

Love the size and feel of the light, it is just slightly shorter than a JetBeam CL-E v2 making it quite pocket friendly.


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 7, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> Thermal management; after 5min on max in 25.4 deg C environment the head is at 39.4deg, feels quite warm. During operation the light was in candle mode, but even when grasped I seemed to really notice the heat.



To the contrary for me, I like the fact that there's no built in thermal management of the circuit. I despise the fact that lights like HDS, Novatac, Ra and Arc6 use thermal management. If I want to run that light at high-power and risk burning that sucker up, let me do it? The fact the D10 and EX get hot mean that it's moving heat away from the emitter, which is a good thing. I applaud NiteCore for allowing me to run full-blast, without "thermal management" telling me it's time to drop power output.


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 7, 2008)

I'm somewhat surprised by all the comments regarding the pressing action of the Smart-PD. You folks have obviously never used a PD/McLux or Arc6. I find the action of the Smart-PD quite enjoyable compared to what I've used in these other PD based lights. My thumb no longer gets numb or slips off.


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## crocodilo (Jul 7, 2008)

Repeated post from another thread, was not sure were to write this down:

My EX10 arrived today. Dropped a battery in there, cleaned the lube and greased the rings, then straight into my pocket. From what I've seen and handled so far, seems like it will stay there for a long time, as main EDC light (in rotation with one or two more).

The good things were as advertised, and they are great. Instead of regarding this as a multimode, I consider it to be an ajustable single mode flashlight with multiple operation options: momentary on, twisty and clicky. The piston thing seems very reliable, but it's operation does have a learning curve. I expect this issue to be overcome in a few days (and perhaps a new relube to make the piston lighter). The knurling is very nice and effective, almost as good as the BitZ's...

Couldn't help but comparing the whole light to the BitZ. The EX10 is heavier, slightly larger, seems brighter (better thrower). The Bitz has a cleaner beam and a simple UI that won't let you fumble and mess up. It's very hard to decide which one I like best, and the BitZ cost double of what i paid for the EX10: that alone makes a difference... This has been said before, but I should repeat it, the EX10 feels and performs like a much more expensive flashlight.

... nah, still like the Bitz better. Beam is perfect for EDC, UI is idiot proof (although with limited adjustment levels), twisty is fast, smooth and reliable as they get. Bonus points for hidden modes (which I'll probably never use). But I'm a sucker for lightweight and small size, and do love clips on lights. Also, titanium accessories are classy.

But all this does not detract from the EX10. Very nicely constructed, it feels very solid and fills the hand nicely without being oversized. One of the best compliments I can do to the EX10 is that it will definetely knock out the Surefire L1 from my pocket EDC rotation, relegating it to bag carry when use is foreseen (much like the Bitz has done to my Q5 dropped-in SF C2 HA). The EX10's range of output is impressive and utterly usefull. Contrary to what I thought, the ramping speed is a very effective balance between slow enough to be precise, and fast enough to get you there in an expedite manner. The stainless bezel looks good, adds to impact resistance, and makes modder's life much easier (I'm not one of them, yet).

Two minor quirks, on both ends: the bezel seems to come off a little too easily for my taste, but then again this shouldn't be too hard to fix; with a gate clip or splitring at the tail, inadvertent pushes on the piston are possible, inside a pocket. Not a major deal for me, since I like my lights clean, but others may complain, and the only fix would be to raise the metal ring surrounding the piston's push end, a small body redesign.

All in all, if this was the only flashlight I could have for the next few years (technology revolutions aside), I would probably never feel unenlightened! I'll be going on vacations in a few days, and the EX10 is the only light I'll be carrying, always going for the minimalistic-but-versatile-and-reliable approach.

Congrats and thanks to 4sevens and Nitecore.


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## StandardBattery (Jul 7, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> To the contrary for me, I like the fact that there's no built in thermal management of the circuit. ...


 
I should clarify I was not suggesting they needed or should implement Thermal Management as part of the electronics. I was just trying to categorize the comment. I have no basis for the temperature rise, good ot bad, except I felt it got warmer than I'm use to... suggesting others might check if there is adequate heat sinking/thermal conduction. 

However, contrary to the manual, I would hope that the light could run unattended without burning up, not due to thermal shutdown in the electronics package, but due to proper thermal management interms of materials and oher design choices.


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## this_is_nascar (Jul 7, 2008)

StandardBattery said:


> I should clarify I was not suggesting they needed or should implement Thermal Management as part of the electronics. I was just trying to categorize the comment. I have no basis for the temperature rise, good ot bad, except I felt it got warmer than I'm use to... suggesting others might check if there is adequate heat sinking/thermal conduction.
> 
> However, contrary to the manual, I would hope that the light could run unattended without burning up, not due to thermal shutdown in the electronics package, but due to proper thermal management interms of materials and oher design choices.



I know. I was not suggesting that you were suggesting....................... It was just a comment. :twothumbs


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## orcinus (Jul 7, 2008)

this_is_nascar said:


> I know. I was not suggesting that you were suggesting.......................



Are you suggesting you were not suggesting he was suggesting?


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## THE_dAY (Jul 7, 2008)

i had a late lunch while taking in this thread so I'm still digesting.


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## AFAustin (Jul 7, 2008)

Could some kind soul pls. point me to a post regarding how the EX10 bezel is removed? I must've missed it, and there's so much info. posted recently on the EX10 and D10 that my poor searching skills can't seem to locate it.

Thanks.


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## streetmaster (Jul 7, 2008)

AFAustin said:


> Could some kind soul pls. point me to a post regarding how the EX10 bezel is removed? I must've missed it, and there's so much info. posted recently on the EX10 and D10 that my poor searching skills can't seem to locate it.
> 
> Thanks.


To remove the EX10 bezel, just press the bezel into the palm of your hand and twist. If that doesn't work, use a leather or rubber glove to gain some grip and try again. Mine came loose with just my hand.


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## Lite_me (Jul 7, 2008)

Well here's one. It's not hard to take off. I just pushed it against my hand and it untwisted easily. Use a leather glove if you need more grip. PM me if you need more help. :candle:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201752

Edit: MAN, you gotta be quick around here. :hahaha:


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## crocodilo (Jul 7, 2008)

I just held mine with two fingers and unscrewed it. That easy.


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## AFAustin (Jul 7, 2008)

Thanks, gentlemen!


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## Vikas Sontakke (Jul 7, 2008)

I received the D10 today. I am having slight problem with this unit.

1) The lens o-ring is crimped. I recall reading about similar problem here

2) With protected 14500 (Trustfire) battery, I can only use it in twisty mode. That battery is slightly taller than NiMh but I would have thought that the tail spring would have enough tension to accommodate that.

Does mechanism depend upon relative spring constant of the tail spring versus the split-ring in the head?

- Vikas


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## mighty82 (Jul 7, 2008)

I had the same problem with the spring and the trustfire batteries. I had to "adjust" the spring a little so no parts of the spring would lay on top of each other (hard to explain) so that the spring could go completely flat. Now it works perfectly, and the spring have become softer too, so the operation is easier. Still works fine with short batteries.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Jul 7, 2008)

How do you take the spring out?

Interstingly, my naked eyes can not see any difference with NiMh vs LiIon battery. It must have a great converter.

- Vikas


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## mighty82 (Jul 7, 2008)

I used a small screwdriver and lifted it out. I can't see the difference between 14500 and NiMh either, but the lux readings says otherwise.


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## Ty_Bower (Jul 7, 2008)

alibaba said:


> For me at least (but I've heard it from several others on CPF) it just fits my hand better. I'm 6'4" so have large hands but I'd imagine just from the specs that the EX10 might be a bit awkward to use in a "tactical" grip with the tailswitch due to it's short length.



I've found this grip works pretty well for me. I'm actually using the joint in my thumb to press the switch, rather than the tip of my thumb. It seems I've got more strength there. You may find the tip of your thumb to be more comfortable.


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## swxb12 (Jul 7, 2008)

Apologies for not sifting through the threads for the answer, but a quick question:

On the D10 in [momentary mode]:

I've figured out that click-release-click-hold will get me from low momentary to high, but is there a way to get back to low momentary while still being in momentary mode?


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## Ty_Bower (Jul 7, 2008)

If you are truly in momentary mode (head unscrewed enough so that a single click does not latch the light on), then all that is required to access max output is a single press & hold for more than half a second. 

If you want to access min output while in momentary mode, you first need to give it a half press & hold. It doesn't make any sense until you manage to do it the first time. While giving it a half press, hold it there for longer than half a second. Now "double click" it, but don't ever fully release the button. You're trying to go half-press/full-press/half-press/full-press/half-press. Now it should be in low mode.

I told you it didn't make any sense. It was a lot easier to get Ryu to do the uppercut.


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## mighty82 (Jul 7, 2008)

Ty_Bower said:


> While giving it a half press, hold it there for longer than half a second. Now "double click" it, but don't ever fully release the button. You're trying to go half-press/full-press/half-press/full-press/half-press. Now it should be in low mode.
> 
> I told you it didn't make any sense. It was a lot easier to get Ryu to do the uppercut.


Haha.. I have been practicing that move the last couple of days. I get it right 95% of the times. It's easier the more you unscrew the head from the body (to a certain degree). It's the same thing with ramping in momentary. Hold a half press and then full press and hold to ramp and release to half pressa again.


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## swxb12 (Jul 7, 2008)

Thanks Ty_Bower. Wow, I had no idea...lol. Think I'll practice when I'm more awake. For now twisting the light on and double-clicking to get it back to low sounds easier.


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## StandardBattery (Jul 7, 2008)

It is actually easier to set your memory to 'low' or what ever level you want in the other mode, turn the light off. Then turn the head for Momentary mode. A 1/2 press will be 'low' (current memory actually), and if you proceed to full press without releasing the button, you'll be ramping up. If you return to off and immediately proceed to full press from off, then you will be at max, and your 1/2 press memory value is gone, but can be set again, as described earlier from momentary mode, or from the continuous mode. 

So again... in my mind the brain-damaged operation of this UI is that every operation resets the memory value. I hope to god ARC has it better implemented in their light. 

I'm looking forward to the Ra Clicky where I know sane people have travelled and remain there dilegently refining their craft. Now if only they could do something in the D10 size. I really want a nioce AA, but this thing is driving me nuts! :hairpull::thumbsdow


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## ruriimasu (Jul 7, 2008)

Anyone has any idea whether these 14500s from DX can be used with the D10? And will these give me better runtime than NiMH 2700Mah cos I see some being sold near my place (but not sure whether they will retain their charge long)? I am thinking of feeding my D10 with these


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## alibaba (Jul 7, 2008)

Ty_Bower said:


> If you are truly in momentary mode (head unscrewed enough so that a single click does not latch the light on), then all that is required to access max output is a single press & hold for more than half a second.
> If you want to access min output while in momentary mode, you first need to give it a half press & hold. It doesn't make any sense until you manage to do it the first time. While giving it a half press, hold it there for longer than half a second. Now "double click" it, but don't ever fully release the button. You're trying to go half-press/full-press/half-press/full-press/half-press. Now it should be in low mode.
> I told you it didn't make any sense. It was a lot easier to get Ryu to do the uppercut.


 

Cool, I didn't know that! I figured out the hard press for .5sec for high thing but not the rest of it. Not the easiest thing in the world to do but I seem to manage.....................

EDIT: Just noticed, as well, that when you ramp in momentary mode there is no ramping memory.............in fact it doesn't seem to ramp down at all! When you get to max, let go and then try to ramp again it does nothing. Still, I keep it on momentary/min all the time and it's sweet that I can ramp it up quickly to a brighter level without twisting the head or going right to max. I wonder what else it can do!?


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## LA OZ (Jul 8, 2008)

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6240 battery is too long for the D10, so don't bother purchasing it.


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## ruriimasu (Jul 8, 2008)

LA OZ said:


> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6240 battery is too long for the D10, so don't bother purchasing it.



hi LA OZ.. would you happen to know where i can purchase some 14500s and charger which are about the same price as those offered in DX and with free international shipping? thanks


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## LA OZ (Jul 8, 2008)

If you are in america, get it from fenix-store.com. 4seven provides excellent services. Otherwise you can get it from AW in this thread http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=180449. I don't know any place that has similar price to DX other than Kaidomain.com.


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## ruriimasu (Jul 8, 2008)

LA OZ said:


> If you are in america, get it from fenix-store.com. 4seven provides excellent services. Otherwise you can get it from AW in this thread http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=180449. I don't know any place that has similar price to DX other than Kaidomain.com.



no, i am not in usa. uhm.. all look expensive. i think i will use my existing NiMHs and see whether i can bear with the runtimes before i decide to buy the 14500s.. thanks for the info :wave:


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## LA OZ (Jul 8, 2008)

I have been using it with non protected 14500. They all fit well because there is no extra circuitry. There only rechargeable battery that I killed so far is one of the protected type. This happened when one of my torch got turned on accidentally. With the unprotected 14500, I simply take it out when the max brightness is running out of steam. It recharged with no observable problem so far.


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## kenzo (Jul 8, 2008)

whoo~ just received mine in Australia 

Not as bright as i thought it would be though :0 compared to the other light i have (Romisen RC-F4).

Nevertheless I LIKE  (and i managed to grab a packet of 2x energizer lithium for $3 - IN AUSTRALIA! - I've been buying them for $11 for four AA)


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## ruriimasu (Jul 8, 2008)

by unprotected cells, meaning they won't cut off power even when their voltage drop to very low? then i would prefer unprotected cells because if i really needed to use the light when battery current is very low, it means i REALLY needed the light, rather than have the battery cut off when i know there was still power in it. so i would not mind damaging a cell during such a scenario. 
let me go home and check whether my D10 has arrived, use my NiMHs in it 1st and test out. if the runtime is not good enough, i will have to buy some 14500s.. anyway my li-ion charger which i bought for 10440s blew up on its 2nd charge and i do need to get a new one no matter what decision i make


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## Stromberg (Jul 8, 2008)

ruriimasu said:


> by unprotected cells, meaning they won't cut off power even when their voltage drop to very low? then i would prefer unprotected cells because if i really needed to use the light when battery current is very low, it means i REALLY needed the light, rather than have the battery cut off when i know there was still power in it. so i would not mind damaging a cell during such a scenario.



OT:
This is actually one reason I've postponed the acquisition of decent Li-Ion charger and protected 14500 cells for my D10. Seriously, there might be situation when spare cells or even alkies aren't around and one dead cell could be smaller problem than not having light at all.
But bigger reason is that I've just moved to NiMh(lsd) scene and don't wan't to spend more money in new gadgets.


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## [email protected] (Jul 8, 2008)

Please continue here.


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