# Very difficult NOT to love AAA's these days.



## F250XLT

I love that more powerful and efficient AAA's are available.....It's nice to be able to EDC such a small light, and still have it do most everything you need. Here are the two I pocketed today, are you carrying one now?


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

On my keys. And on my wife's keys, incase I'm in her car.


----------



## cccpull

Yep, sure do.




Not the most powerful, but it fills the bill.


----------



## Sgt. LED

What is that knurly mother you got there?


----------



## fabienne

Sgt. LED said:


> What is that knurly mother you got there?


I believe it's Univex Ti AAA that's been sold out by Kuku


----------



## Fireclaw18

Sgt. LED said:


> What is that knurly mother you got there?



In the original poster's pic? He has a Liteflux LF2XT on the left and a Univex AAA titanium on the right. Both are no longer available and very hard to find.

I'm currently carrying a DQG III AAA.


----------



## F250XLT

Sgt. LED said:


> What is that knurly mother you got there?





fabienne said:


> I believe it's Univex Ti AAA that's been sold out by Kuku




That is correct.


----------



## ChrisGarrett

If we're talking 'keychain' lights, then yes, an AAA light like a Maglite Solitaire can be fine, or even those 'coin lights' that Battery Junction (and others) is giving away. I've got a little 4x357 button, 3 LED 'Chang Special' on my keychain and it's fine for most of my needs and at $2, it's no loss if I lose it.

Now, for an EDC pocket carry light, I just got a Xeno E03 in and it's a pretty smallish light that can run on any AA sized battery, so why not go this route with three times the capacity of a AAA and not a whole lot longer, or thicker? The outputs are greater, as well, even on alkalines vs. Li-Lion.

Chris


----------



## F250XLT

ChrisGarrett said:


> If we're talking 'keychain' lights, then yes, an AAA light like a Maglite Solitaire can be fine, or even those 'coin lights' that Battery Junction (and others) is giving away. I've got a little 4x357 button, 3 LED 'Chang Special' on my keychain and it's fine for most of my needs and at $2, it's no loss if I lose it.
> 
> Now, for an EDC pocket carry light, I just got a Xeno E03 in and it's a pretty smallish light that can run on any AA sized battery, so why not go this route with three times the capacity of a AAA and not a whole lot longer, or thicker? The outputs are greater, as well, even on alkalines vs. Li-Lion.
> 
> Chris




Yeah, you're kinda missing the point of the thread...:laughing: It's about my appreciation of AAA lights, not alternatives.


----------



## zenbeam

I am carrying a Fenix LD01 at this moment - at work. I pretty much carry it throughout the day since buying it. I carry my E01 at home. And I keep an E05 by my mancave recliner. I really like the E05 - it is so tiny and yet so well machined and knurled - and it is the first light to teach me to appreciate an intentionally "floody" beam. 

Sure, you can get fairly small lights with a AA and have more power and runtime than AAA. I have a couple of neat AA lights (well one is a 2x AA - yet awesome!). But.... there is something to be said for miniaturization and today's ability to get quite a bit of function out of such tiny form! I personally just find it intriguing. :thumbsup:


----------



## Hitthespot

Here is my favorite. Fenix Stainless Steel. R5.




[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

_Hi Tim,

While it's certainly not in the same class as your two beauties, I really enjoy my Preon ReVO.

~ Chance_


----------



## F250XLT

Hitthespot said:


> Here is my favorite. Fenix Stainless Steel. R5.



I just received one of those yesterday, very nice light indeed.


----------



## F250XLT

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> _Hi Tim,
> 
> While it's certainly not in the same class as your two beauties, I really enjoy my Preon ReVO.
> 
> ~ Chance_



If you love it, it's in the same class. :thumbsup:


----------



## shelm

Hitthespot said:


> Here is my favorite. Fenix Stainless Steel. R5.


beautiful light, i would want one too.
i am not sure though if it is REALLY practical as EDC keychain pendant.

the weight.


----------



## Draven451

I'm glad you like the Univex AAA Titanium. :thumbsup: 

I love mine (TIR optic version) and edc it very often. 

Today you caught me carrying a AA sized cell! :ironic:

But I prefer to carry the AAA/10440 sized lights.


----------



## F250XLT

Draven451 said:


> I'm glad you like the Univex AAA Titanium. :thumbsup:
> 
> I love mine (TIR optic version) and edc it very often.
> 
> Today you caught me carrying a AA sized cell! :ironic:
> 
> But I prefer to carry the AAA/10440 sized lights.




I'd love to get my hands on the TIR version as well, would be nice to compare side by side.


----------



## Hitthespot

shelm said:


> beautiful light, i would want one too.
> i am not sure though if it is REALLY practical as EDC keychain pendant.
> 
> the weight.



I carried the R2 version for over a year. My daughter wanted it so I just bought this R5 version a couple weeks ago. Getting harder and harder to find since they were a limited edition. I carry this on my keychain and I don't even notice the wieght. I've seen people carrying keychains that need a body builder to lift. This is hardly noticable. LOL


----------



## thaugen

I really like my Fenix E05.


----------



## TyJo

thaugen said:


> I really like my Fenix E05.


Same here, got one on my keys, fits the bill perfectly (small, floody, single mode).


----------



## F250XLT

thaugen said:


> I really like my Fenix E05.





TyJo said:


> Same here, got one on my keys, fits the bill perfectly (small, floody, single mode).



I've been wanting to check on out for a while now, looks really nice. I offered to replace my wife's E01 with the E05, but she said the E01 works perfectly for her needs (nurse, checking eyes of patients).....SO, I guess I gotta come up with another reason


----------



## BullsEyeLantern

I agree. Love my E05 and Preon.


----------



## Obijuan Kenobe

I have had a LF2XT. I felt it was way too small.

For me, I need a flashlight to take up a certain minimum amount of space in the palm of my hand to feel 'correct'. 

E series customs is as small as I can go. 18650 TB E series split body is about as big as I care to go.

Just my 2 cents. If I could have any AAA light, it would be the new one you just snagged. The full knurl is tight.

obi


----------



## pepekraft

Fireclaw18 said:


> [...]
> I'm currently carrying a DQG III AAA.



I have a DQG II AAA on my keychain, and it's the perfect keychain size in my opinion.

a 2xAAA Preon2 is a great shirt pocket size. good runtimes, nice and bright.

I hope the next AAA I get will be the MBI Torpedo :fingerscrossed:

I've been lusting after some sort of Peak AAA, but can't make up my mind what to get. And I want a clip. I know the AA Modoo clip can be ground down, but my freehand grinding skills are a bit sloppy. Well, someday.


----------



## F250XLT

Obijuan Kenobe said:


> If I could have any AAA light, it would be the new one you just snagged. The full knurl is tight.
> 
> obi



It really is nice.



pepekraft said:


> I hope the next AAA I get will be the MBI Torpedo :fingerscrossed:



I am also looking forward to that one, I hope it lives up to the expectations.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

F250XLT said:


> If you love it, it's in the same class. :thumbsup:



_I would probably love it.....if I hadn't been cheap and had bought a stainless one. Yes,.........I would definitely love a stainless ReVO. _

~ _Chance_


----------



## F250XLT

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> _I would probably love it.....if I hadn't been cheap and had bought a stainless one. Yes,.........I would definitely love a stainless ReVO. _
> 
> ~ _Chance_



It's never too late...


----------



## kaichu dento

ChrisGarrett said:


> If we're talking 'keychain' lights, then yes, an AAA light like a Maglite Solitaire can be fine, or even those 'coin lights' that Battery Junction (and others) is giving away. I've got a little 4x357 button, 3 LED 'Chang Special' on my keychain and it's fine for most of my needs and at $2, it's no loss if I lose it.
> 
> Now, for an EDC pocket carry light, I just got a Xeno E03 in and it's a pretty smallish light that can run on any AA sized battery, so why not go this route with three times the capacity of a AAA and not a whole lot longer, or thicker? The outputs are greater, as well, even on alkalines vs. Li-Lion.


So you're going to compare two of the most anemic options when it comes to AAA to a pocket rocket and use that as a reason not to go with AAA? Why not go the opposite direction and compare the output of the Torpedo to an incandescent MagLite?

The main thrust of the thread was not based on a Solitaire or cheesy 'Chang Special' (not even a AAA light), but a Univex AAA and an LF2XT, which don't belong in the same category at all. 

The point you made here in your post is valid, but only because it's your preference and for the reasons stated above make your observations irrelevant to this thread.


shelm said:


> beautiful light, i would want one too.
> i am not sure though if it is REALLY practical as EDC keychain pendant.
> 
> the weight.


If you'd been paying attention you would have noticed that the SS LD01 is a pretty popular light around here, and they definitely don't require a particularly burly build to carry one. Too heavy for you or me? Maybe, but for plenty of others, perfection.

AAA lights are here to stay, especially now as they grow ever in capability, which is pretty well represented in the lights the thread was started around.


----------



## davecroft

I like small lights - that way they carried with me rather than left behind on a trip. The same way I will carry a small 'phone, multi-tool or camera, etc - yes, you can get bigger and heavier gear which will do a lot more, but what use are they if you have left them at home? 

As an example I used to have a lovely Olympus 35mm SLR with several lenses, it took fantastic pictures but I gave up taking it everywhere in my rucksac because it was heavy and cumbersome to lug up a mountain and consequently I missed some fantastic shots. Sold it and now have a tiny little Sony Cybershot which goes in a shirt pocket. Pictures are maybe not quite as good but it's always with me.

You can get more functions, longer runtimes and more lumens from a big light but I won't carry it unless I'm definately going to be out after dark. My E01 and E05 are always on my keys so I don't even have to think about them, they are there when needed.


----------



## clark-kentski

I ve been considering an Arc AAA Made in the USA ,they dont seem powerful but seem rugged,anybody like them?


----------



## jabe1

Agreed, I have a few that I rotate through. Today was a Fenix L0D Q4, and an SS Eiger 10280 on my keys. 

Tomorrow, maybe the Eiger X high CRI, or the Maratac SS, DQG I or II, or Revo SS neutral.

Then again, there's the Thrunite Ti, or go old school with the Matterhorn single....

I'm always looking at the AAAs. You hardly know they're there when you've got them in your pocket, and lately, they can match many larger lights in output, and function as long as throw isn't needed!


----------



## kaichu dento

davecroft said:


> I like small lights - that way they carried with me rather than left behind on a trip. The same way I will carry a small 'phone, multi-tool or camera, etc - yes, you can get bigger and heavier gear which will do a lot more, but what use are they if you have left them at home?
> 
> As an example I used to have a lovely Olympus 35mm SLR with several lenses, it took fantastic pictures but I gave up taking it everywhere in my rucksack because it was heavy and cumbersome to lug up a mountain and consequently I missed some fantastic shots. Sold it and now have a tiny little Sony Cybershot which goes in a shirt pocket. Pictures are maybe not quite as good but it's always with me.
> 
> You can get more functions, longer runtimes and more lumens from a big light but I won't carry it unless I'm definitely going to be out after dark. My E01 and E05 are always on my keys so I don't even have to think about them, they are there when needed.


I did the same thing in getting rid of my superior SLR for a camera that didn't need any special effort to always have with me, and now I wear a digital on my belt as part of my daily wear. 


jabe1 said:


> Agreed, I have a few that I rotate through. Today was a Fenix L0D Q4, and an SS Eiger 10280 on my keys.
> 
> Tomorrow, maybe the Eiger X high CRI, or the Maratac SS, DQG I or II, or Revo SS neutral.
> 
> Then again, there's the Thrunite Ti, or go old school with the Matterhorn single....
> 
> I'm always looking at the AAA's. You hardly know they're there when you've got them in your pocket, and lately, they can match many larger lights in output, and function as long as throw isn't needed!


They can fit anywhere so easily - I just packed a bunch of my stuff and have a box for my bigger lights, and a wallet sized pouch into which I placed 17 AAA lights, with room for one or two more!


----------



## run4jc

Good thread. I love my Mako Flood(s), ThruNite Ti(s), Quark Preon 0(s) and have a DQG AAA on the way. The old expression, "the most useful (whatever) is the one that you have with you..."

I ALWAYS have, at bare minimum, one of these AAA beauties with me, and a ThruNite Ti Firefly has been on my keychain for the past 6 months. It's such a useful little light!


----------



## sassaquin

pepekraft said:


> I've been lusting after some sort of Peak AAA, but can't make up my mind what to get. And I want a clip. I know the AA Modoo clip can be ground down, but my freehand grinding skills are a bit sloppy. Well, someday.



Jason at DarkSucks.com designed and sells a nice titanium clip for the Peak Eiger ($20 + shipping).


----------



## LGT

I always have at least one AAA light with me. Two brass peak eigers, one level 8, and a neutral QTC in the side pockets of my leatherman sheath and an iTP A2 on my keychain. The output of these lights can be quite handy when you just don't want to carry a bigger light. Very impressive for something running on a AAA. Forgot to mention my Arc and fenix E05, which took a ride through the washing machine and continues to operate flawlessly.


----------



## tam17

I have LD01 and E05 in my daily rotation. Somehow I've never been satisfied with their runtimes, so I've started carrying a spare alkaline or Eneloop battery (in a DIY container) as mandatory. Love the AAA and plan to buy more - me happy now


----------



## fyrstormer

I have a Sapphire 25 that I've modded with a warm Nichia DS; I use it for navigating in the bedroom after lights-out. Something brighter would be nice, but I can't find anything well-built that stays on the market for more than a few hours, and anyway, an AAA battery just can't keep up with even a CR123, to say nothing of an IMR16340.


----------



## fyrstormer

tam17 said:


> I have LD01 and E05 in my daily rotation. Somehow I've never been satisfied with their runtimes, so *I've started carrying a spare alkaline or Eneloop battery (in a DIY container)* as mandatory. Love the AAA and plan to buy more - me happy now


CountyComm sells very nice government-surplus Delrin "battery lockers" in CR123, AA, and AAA sizes. Check them out.


----------



## nfetterly

Preon neutral (setup with 1xAA) in my bag. 40DD in my pocket (neutral spot), and Milky Tiger (Surefire L1 mod) on my hip in a AOTH tan stingray holster. It was the milky that got used today. L1 modded for 1xAA use with trit in clip did hotel bedside duty last night (& will again tonight).


----------



## scout24

Beat to death EO1 on my keys, Mako warm on my Mini bic/ SAK splitring mixed in with my change, and a Thrunite Ti which can fill in as edc primary if really needed. P0 as nightstand AAA flooder... It's a great cell size! Lots of good AAA choices. I used to run an LDO1 on 10440 until I badly overheated it and the emitter gave up. Better choices than AAA for lots of lumens, but it's cool to be able to carry a few with you!


----------



## netman

I still love my LOD ce. The only twistie I own with a stiff enough action it never turns itself on in my pocket and a lot of light for a tiny thing. If I have my keys which is always I have my fenix. My Tiablo MA1 is just too easy to turn on; I may as well put a dead battery right in my pocket.


----------



## PCC

Here's my Preon ReVO SS on my house keychain:






I carry a spare AAA cell in this brass capsule that I made for this purpose:





The cap is threaded onto the tail of the capsule in AA mode in the picture so that the same AAA battery can be used in the ThruNite T10 shown in the picture.


----------



## parnass

My favorite EDC lights lately have been 2AAA penlights -- usually a Pelican 1920 or Streamlight C4 Stylus Pro. They fit most shirt pockets well and are easier to grip than 1AAA lights. When powered by Energizer lithium primary batteries, modern 2AAA penlights are bright enough and run long enough to serve as EDC lights.

I have several 1AAA lights and always carry one as a backup to my main flashlight. Backups include SS Peak Eiger, SS Peak 3-LED Matterhorn, Fenix SS LD01, Arc AAA, etc.


----------



## revolver

PCC said:


>



Sorry if off topic, but a quick question: is that a SS tailcap for your T10 I see? And a pocket clip?? Is this a special edition I missed out on?


----------



## ChrisGarrett

F250XLT said:


> Yeah, you're kinda missing the point of the thread...:laughing: It's about my appreciation of AAA lights, not alternatives.



Yeah, sorry.

I thought your post was more about the AAA form factor vs. say an AA or 123 and hence my comments.

Anyhow...

Those are nice lights and I'll search through the posts to figure out what they are and their details.

Thanks, Chris


----------



## starbork

No love for the iTP A3 E0S Upgraded? This little guy is FAR and away the light I use most... because, as someone said, it's the one I always have with me  80 lumens on high, excellent runtimes on Eneloops (ran it on high for about 45 minutes straight when my car broke down - got hot, but never dimmed!). Only complaint is the tailcap protuberance for a split-ring connector is flimsy, and prevents tailstanding. 

One little bonus, as someone else pointed out, is that you can keep it twisted off just to the point that a bit of thumb pressure on the nose will close the contact - effectively giving you a "temp switch" without having to do any twisting.


Anyhow, here's a vote for the iTP A3. Cheers, little buddy!

P.S. I think my first post here? Love the place, long time lurker. Sorry in advance for any breach of etiquette (or other general rookie mistakes  )


----------



## F250XLT

parnass said:


> My favorite EDC lights lately have been 2AAA penlights -- usually a Pelican 1920 or Streamlight C4 Stylus Pro. They fit most shirt pockets well and are easier to grip than 1AAA lights. When powered by Energizer lithium primary batteries, modern 2AAA penlights are bright enough and run long enough to serve as EDC lights.
> 
> I have several 1AAA lights and always carry one as a backup to my main flashlight. Backups include SS Peak Eiger, SS Peak 3-LED Matterhorn, Fenix SS LD01, Arc AAA, etc.



I like that Pelican, tell me more please...



ChrisGarrett said:


> Yeah, sorry.
> 
> I thought your post was more about the AAA form factor vs. say an AA or 123 and hence my comments.
> 
> Anyhow...
> 
> Those are nice lights and I'll search through the posts to figure out what they are and their details.
> 
> Thanks, Chris



No need for sorry, all opinions are welcome. If you have any questions, ask here.


----------



## fabienne

Just realized that I have been quite fond of AAA form unknowingly. 
- Peak Eiger
- Thrunite Ti
- Ti Arc AAA
- Preon 1 & 2
- Fenix E1


----------



## srazeq

always in my keychain olight i3 eos 1xAAA


----------



## grazza

Got my Spark SK7 this week. Its a nice amount of light and single mode. I wanted something a little brighter, and not so blue, as my E01.
The only down side is the tiny O ring did not last long. However a few winds of plumbers tape is an adequate replacement.


----------



## Zeruel

I used to carry AA lights as my edc, but lately went back to AAA for even more inconspicuous carrying and also largely due to new brands/models that give me UI and (smaller) sized lights that I want.


----------



## Taschenlampe Dude

I currently have a Streamlight Microstream and a Maratac. I've been contemplating a Peak Eiger for some time but can't seem to make a decision on which style to get.


----------



## kaichu dento

PCC said:


> Here's my Preon ReVO SS on my house keychain:


The neutral SS Preon ReVo was a classic the moment it was released and very frustrating that one of the Quark superstars was almost immediately discontinued.


parnass said:


> My favorite EDC lights lately have been 2AAA penlights -- usually a Pelican 1920 or Streamlight C4 Stylus Pro. They fit most shirt pockets well and are easier to grip than 1AAA lights.


Surprisingly enough, although I didn't really care for the ergonomics of the Preon1, I love my Preon2. 

Thanks for posting the Pelican 1920 - I think I need one!

Now what's the name of the one on the left?


----------



## tx101

A couple of them have found new and better homes


----------



## LiteTheWay

I agree with the premise of this thread. The Liteflux LFTX2 HAS to be the best AAA around still - not that you can get one though.


----------



## parnass

The light with the rubber grip on the left is a Inova Bolt 3A. I like the ergonomic grip, but it is only 25 lumens and Inova (Nite-Ize) hasn't updated it as they have with their T and X series flashlights.

The  Streamlight C4 Stylus Pro used to be my favorite penlight, but it now is a close second behind the new  Pelican 1920. Both provide a forward clicky switch with momentary action. 

There are a few reviews of the Pelican on CPF and on the web. The Pelican 1920 is a little brighter than the Stylus Pro, has a larger hotspot, and a thicker battery tube. The drawback is that the Pelican 1920's runtime is rated at 2 hours 45 minutes versus 6 hours 15 minutes for the Stylus Pro. I am still using the first set of Energizer Ultimate Lithium primary batteries in both lights, so runtimes haven't been a problem.


----------



## F250XLT

I've never really looked into the penlights, but that Pelican is really nice.


----------



## F250XLT

tx101 said:


> A couple of them have found new and better homes



I know where one of them lives now :devil:



7histology said:


> I agree with the premise of this thread. The Liteflux LFTX2 HAS to be the best AAA around still - not that you can get one though.



And when you get one, one is not enough 



grazza said:


> Got my Spark SK7 this week. Its a nice amount of light and single mode. I wanted something a little brighter, and not so blue, as my E01.
> The only down side is the tiny O ring did not last long. However a few winds of plumbers tape is an adequate replacement.



Nice looking light :thumbsup:


----------



## PCC

revolver said:


> Sorry if off topic, but a quick question: is that a SS tailcap for your T10 I see? And a pocket clip?? Is this a special edition I missed out on?



No, it's custom. I have a lathe and am not afraid to use it!



kaichu dento said:


> The neutral SS Preon ReVo was a classic the moment it was released and very frustrating that one of the Quark superstars was almost immediately discontinued.



Unfortunately, I missed out on the NW version and this one is a second run CW.


----------



## pepekraft

sassaquin said:


> Jason at DarkSucks.com designed and sells a nice titanium clip for the Peak Eiger ($20 + shipping).



Thanks!


----------



## jorn

AAA is the best for edc stuff. I always got one (or more) light on me when i need it.
Runtimes has never been a problem for edc tasks. 
It can keep up with a CR123 if you dare use a IMR10440:devil:


----------



## Gryffin

Zeruel said:


> I used to carry AA lights as my edc, but lately went back to AAA for even more inconspicuous carrying and also largely due to new brands/models that give me UI and (smaller) sized lights that I want.



Same here, I mostly carried an AA light in my pocket, and a Photon on my keys. I upgraded to a Maratac AAA, which completely blows away the Photon of course; but with it's pocket clip, I've lately been carrying the AAA in my pocket, leaving the AA in my EDC bag. I like the reduction of weight in bulk in my pocket. Obviously, runtime isn't the same, and especially on 10440s heat generation is an issue, but I see the Maratac as the light I use for brief tasks, with the bag light for more serious use. Kinda how a pistol is what you use to get back to your rifle! 

I like the format so much that I just ordered a Lumapower LM21, so I can get a "proper" forward clicky UI instead of a twisty. Pretty sure it'll be spending a lot of time in my pocket, the Maratac's been in there for over a year.

I think part of the appeal of the format is, it's no longer the compromise it once was. My Maratac puts out as much light as a 1xCR123A light of not-that-long ago. I hope other manufacturers follow the lead of Lumapower, 4sevens et. al. and offer more AAA lights with forward clickies and multimode UIs.


----------



## F250XLT

Gryffin said:


> *I think part of the appeal of the format is, it's no longer the compromise it once was*. My Maratac puts out as much light as a 1xCR123A light of not-that-long ago. I hope other manufacturers follow the lead of Lumapower, 4sevens et. al. and offer more AAA lights with forward clickies and multimode UIs.




I think you are exactly right...


----------



## kaichu dento

7histology said:


> I agree with the premise of this thread. The Liteflux LFTX2 HAS to be the best AAA around still - not that you can get one though.


Love my LF2XT, but I'd have to say that it would lose out to a couple others for higher brightness and also to a different set of lights for more flood; notably the Preon ReVo.


PCC said:


> Unfortunately, I missed out on the NW version and this one is a second run CW.


Your ReVo can be modded to hCRI!


----------



## WadeF

clark-kentski said:


> I ve been considering an Arc AAA Made in the USA ,they dont seem powerful but seem rugged,anybody like them?



They are tough lights, but at this point they have surpassed when it comes to output and the quality of the beam and light. They are still a nice backup to keep on a keychain, etc. They will certainly get the job done in many situations.

I've been impressed with the little Thrunite Ti that does about 60 lumens on high, which was a lot of light years ago when we were dealing with incans like a Surefire E2e that only ran for 20 minutes on two CR123s.  It also has a super low low if you don't want to mess up your dark adapted eyes.


----------



## pjandyho

Pete, who does the mod?

To OP, never bothered with AAA lights until lately. Effectively since the SS Preon ReVO came into the market. Got myself a first run cool white SS ReVO (which I sold off later) and a couple of neutral white SS ReVO. Love them a lot! It is permanently affixed to my keychain.

Then I started looking at other options and bought a Preon P0. Didn't quite like the P0 though and hadn't bother to use it. Lately my favorite is the Mako Flood made by Enrique. Just love the long run time on this thing, but I wish it has a lower low output. Been contemplating on getting a McGizmo Sapphire but haven't really decided on it.


----------



## CarpentryHero

I always carry more than two lights, and really appreciate the AAA format lately. I have a Fenix E05 on my set of keys for the wife's suv. An Ld01 SS on my truck keys, a Preon 0 on my hours keys and another on my work van keys. Few weeks ago the Thrunite Ti was on the work keys, till the LD01 showed up and then I decided to go with stainless for as many keys as I could  
Great backups to my edc while at work, and great edc lights while I'm not at work


----------



## F250XLT

clark-kentski said:


> I ve been considering an Arc AAA Made in the USA ,they dont seem powerful but seem rugged,anybody like them?



IMO, there are far better options out there for the money. Arc pretty much got left in the dust, quite a while ago...


----------



## emu124

tx101 said:


>



What's the light between the Univex and Eiger? Forward clicky?


----------



## kaichu dento

pjandyho said:


> Pete, who does the mod?


Probably anyone that does emitter swaps. I think an hCRI XP-G would be nice in there.


----------



## zenbeam

Why have I been eyeballing the relatively new Rofis ER10 recently made available at shiningbeam? At $35.85 it's about $5 less than most any other listings I've seen for this interesting 1x AAA light. I've seen selfbuilt's review on a sister product JR10 & JR20 from Rofis in which he demonstrated quite a bit of confidence in build quality and design - placing it right with up there with Fenix products somewhere between their PD & TK lines. 

I dunno, but I like the design of this light and I don't have anything in full blown stainless yet. I'm just a stone's throw away from pulling the purchase trigger on this one.

Does anyone here have any experience with one of these or any words of encouragement or discouragement?


----------



## F250XLT

That is an interesting light...


----------



## kaichu dento

zenbeam said:


> Why have I been eyeballing the relatively new Rofis ER10 recently made available at shiningbeam? At $35.85 it's about $5 less than most any other listings I've seen for this interesting 1x AAA light. I've seen selfbuilt's review on a sister product JR10 & JR20 from Rofis in which he demonstrated quite a bit of confidence in build quality and design - placing it right with up there with Fenix products somewhere between their PD & TK lines.
> 
> I dunno, but I like the design of this light and I don't have anything in full blown stainless yet. I'm just a stone's throw away from pulling the purchase trigger on this one.
> 
> Does anyone here have any experience with one of these or any words of encouragement or discouragement?


I want to find out more about the linear touchpad ramping UI and how well it works!


----------



## Burgess

to PCC --

What is that "diffuser cap" attached to your Preon ReVO S.S. ? 

Sorta' like a Chap-Stick cap, but I know (from trying)
that those are Too Big to fit !


What did you find to fit the ReVO ? ? ?


----------



## [email protected]

Hitthespot said:


> I carry this on my keychain and I don't even notice the weight. I've seen people carrying keychains that need a body builder to lift. This is hardly noticable. LOL




Better for your car's ignition barrel too having a lighter set of keys :thumbsup:


----------



## PCC

Burgess said:


> to PCC --
> 
> What is that "diffuser cap" attached to your Preon ReVO S.S. ?
> 
> Sorta' like a Chap-Stick cap, but I know (from trying)
> that those are Too Big to fit !
> 
> 
> What did you find to fit the ReVO ? ? ?



It's frosted acrylic. Bought it at a local plastics store and turned it on (you guessed it :thumbsup the lathe. I can make you one in about ten minutes.


----------



## Gryffin

PCC said:


> It's frosted acrylic. Bought it at a local plastics store and turned it on (you guessed it :thumbsup the lathe. I can make you one in about ten minutes.



Dude, you could start yourself a nice little cottage business cranking them out in various size to fit various bezels. 

Just sayin’.


----------



## PCC

kaichu dento said:


> Your ReVo can be modded to hCRI!


Thinking of doing it with the Nichia 219.



Gryffin said:


> Dude, you could start yourself a nice little cottage business cranking them out in various size to fit various bezels.
> 
> Just sayin’.


Too much hassle. You'd need to send me your light to ensure a snug fit then I'd send it back. This is getting off topic so I'll stop right here.


----------



## fyrstormer

kaichu dento said:


> I want to find out more about the linear touchpad ramping UI and how well it works!


What linear touchpad ramping? The light is described as three-mode.


----------



## ecallahan

Loving my AAA's as well, so small I always have them on me. I carry either a SS Preon ReVo neutral white, or the DQG Tiny III I just received with an R4 which is neutral white as well. The ReVo feels like it is built better, and the beam pattern is smoother, but it was also more expensive. The DQG is smaller, with two well spaced levels. I love them both.


----------



## HKJ

I do love AAA lights:


----------



## MichaelW

sarcasm: AAA are far too huge, AAAA is where it is at


----------



## fyrstormer

MichaelW said:


> sarcasm: AAA are far too huge, AAAA is where it is at


If size were really your only concern, then the Photon is smaller than every cylindrical-cell light ever made, and it will always be smaller.


----------



## Gryffin

MichaelW said:


> sarcasm: AAA are far too huge, AAAA is where it is at





fyrstormer said:


> If size were really your only concern, then the Photon is smaller than every cylindrical-cell light ever made, and it will always be smaller.



Sheesh, usually when us guys get together to brag, it's _not_ about who's got the _smallest_! :nana:


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

kaichu dento said:


> I want to find out more about the linear touchpad ramping UI and how well it works!








*It does [email protected]@K like you should be able to run your thumb up and down the body to increase then decrease the brightness level......but I don't think that's the reality. 

Perhaps if Apple creates the iLight. *:thumbsup:
* 
~ Chance*


----------



## GarageBoy

AAA, it's the new AA

Punching out way more light for longer than my L1P at a fraction of the size


----------



## HKJ

MichaelW said:


> sarcasm: AAA are far too huge, AAAA is where it is at



AAAA is also large, compared to other small lights:


----------



## tx101

emu124 said:


> What's the light between the Univex and Eiger? Forward clicky?



Thats my 1 x AAA Frankenlight 

Streamlight Microstream body with a Fenix head

There is a thread somewhere about this Lego

See here

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?215546-LD01-head-on-Microstream-body


----------



## fyrstormer

Gryffin said:


> Sheesh, usually when us guys get together to brag, it's _not_ about who's got the _smallest_! :nana:


What can I say, mine's a thrower, not a shower. :devil:


----------



## kaichu dento

fyrstormer said:


> What linear touchpad ramping? The light is described as three-mode.


See post by Chauncey who got it!



Chauncey Gardiner said:


> *It does [email protected]@K like you should be able to run your thumb up and down the body to increase then decrease the brightness level......but I don't think that's the reality.
> 
> Perhaps if Apple creates the iLight. *:thumbsup:
> *
> ~ Chance*


Yeah, pretty interesting (and overly busy) graphic just for a clip!


fyrstormer said:


> If size were really your only concern, then the Photon is smaller than every cylindrical-cell light ever made, and it will always be smaller.


It's definitely shorter, but fatter, making it smaller in one dimension and larger in another. Pretty much a judgement call as to which dimension is more important, but I have a strong preference for slimmer and longer over shorter and fatter.

That said, I'm sure enjoying my TC-R1 in all it's stubbiness.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

*Page 4 Picture Recap*. *Tim, your thread has me [email protected]@King at my piggy bank......and piggy has a scared look on his face. *

_*~ Chance*_


----------



## Gryffin

HKJ said:


>



Just your… ahem… _small_ collection? :naughty:


----------



## F250XLT

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> *Tim, your thread has me [email protected]@King at my piggy bank......and piggy has a scared look on his face. *
> 
> _*~ Chance*_




My apologies, that was not my intention :devil:


----------



## HKJ

Gryffin said:


> Just your… ahem… _small_ collection? :naughty:



Not really, just a few light from my collection


----------



## F250XLT

I had been looking at getting one of these for quite some time, it definitely lived up to my expectations.


----------



## shelm

F250XLT said:


> I had been looking at getting one of these for quite some time, it definitely lived up to my expectations.



Fenix releases the LD01 SS every other year dont they? i'll get the SS with the next LED upgrade..
i certainly love my copies of the LD01 R4.

superb built quality, beam beauty, tint and brightness.

ah wait! maybe with the money (~50$) i should better buy a multitool LOL


----------



## zenbeam

Well, after learning that it does NOT have linear touchpad ramping, I'm going for another light that does! So there. :thumbsup:

Man.. I hate to say this, especially in a AAA thread, but I opted today for Xeno E03 1x AA instead of the Rofis 1x AAA......
.......for now that is (you know how that goes). :wave:


----------



## Incidentalist

AAA are my favorite form factor. I love just about every type of AAA light there is, but my absolute favorites are the Ti and SS beauties. I've never added them all up, but I wouldn't be surprised if I have over 100 1xAAA lights. It's a sickness.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

Incidentalist said:


> ........I wouldn't be surprised if I have over 100 1xAAA lights.



oo: Pictures please! oo: 

~ Chance


----------



## F250XLT

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> oo: Pictures please! oo:
> 
> ~ Chance




+1


----------



## bansuri

Incidentalist said:


> AAA are my favorite form factor. I love just about every type of AAA light there is, but my absolute favorites are the Ti and SS beauties. I've never added them all up, but I wouldn't be surprised if I have over 100 1xAAA lights. It's a sickness.


I've seen a fraction of them, absolutely gorgeous collection. You'll need a wide-angle lens!


----------



## Burgess

Incidentalist said:


> . . . . but I wouldn't be surprised if I have over 100 1xAAA lights. It's a sickness.




No -- it's an *Investment* !




Remember: it's not a *Lie*, if you* Believe *it ! ! !


_


----------



## Buck

I EDC a 1xAAA and a spare eneloop in a small plastic tube. I have a short lanyard attached, which helps locate it in a pocket among the keys and coins. For those who find the AAA form factor a little small in the hand, wrapping the last couple of fingers around the lanyard gives the impression that the light is longer. 

My favorite use of the lanyard is when crossing a street at night. I put the light on Med. or Low, grip the bigger knot on the cord and spin the light in a circle (or sometimes a lazy-8) around my hand. The PWM makes an amusing series of dots out of the motion of the light. It seems to get the attention of drivers.


----------



## shramj

Anyone got a list of single AAA lights that have forward clickies?


----------



## jorn

shramj said:


> Anyone got a list of single AAA lights that have forward clickies?


Dont think there are too many of them. The Univex aaa, and Lumapower LM21 got forward clicky. The Litreflux lf2xt got a electronic switch, but will kind of act like a forward clicky if you enable the momentary on feature.


----------



## shramj

jorn, that Liteflux lf2xt looks pretty sweet, I can't find anyone selling it online, do they still make them?


----------



## kaichu dento

shramj said:


> jorn, that Liteflux lf2xt looks pretty sweet, I can't find anyone selling it online, do they still make them?


They don't make them any longer but if you shop the MarketPlace you'll eventually find one, although they sell for many times the original price. One of the best UI's of all time and the main two weaknesses were the finickiness of the the light itself, needing constant tweeks for some users and virtually no problems for others; and the absolute range of highest/lowest levels not being as wide as many might have hoped for, myself included.

I still carry mine virtually everyday and wish there were more lights with as nice a beam pattern as the LF2XT.


----------



## jorn

shramj said:


> jorn, that Liteflux lf2xt looks pretty sweet, I can't find anyone selling it online, do they still make them?


No. 
It's the best aaa light i know of. If you can find a used one in the markedplace, it prob wont go cheap. They usually sell fast on the markedplace, even the more exotic ones in the 500-1000$ range seems to go fast when they are put up for sale. Im glad i got mine cheap when they were in stock. (79$ i think, if i remember correctly) Now you must pay atleast twice the amount for a banged up and used one.


----------



## lightinsky

I picked up a Coleman Max 3AAA sportsman Cree XRE Led, White, Red and Blue colors. I like this light and it's 4 7/8 inches just under 5 inches in length. Good alternative to my Surefire and Inova lights I have that use the 123A's lithiums.


----------



## AZPops

F250XLT said:


> I love that more powerful and efficient AAA's are available.....It's nice to be able to EDC such a small light, and still have it do most everything you need. Here are the two I pocketed today, are you carrying one now?




Man those are two dang Sweet lights!


----------



## melty

Oh dear. I came here just looking for a small AAA light to put on my keychain. Now I have an iTP A3 EOS Upgraded and a Preon P0-SS on my keychain with a DQG iii in the mail. Plus I'm on the mailing list for the Torpedo and am eagerly awaiting reviews on the Lumapower LM21...


----------



## LG&M

I am also a big fan of AAA. I wish more manufactures would make them. Or at least Fenix would upgrade the good old E01


----------



## F250XLT

I am happy to see the participation in the thread, AAA love for everyone.:grouphug:


----------



## kaichu dento

F250XLT said:


> I am happy to see the participation in the thread, AAA love for everyone.:grouphug:


Me too - it was the magical AAA (small, sufficient and indispensable) that brought me to CPF in the first place!


----------



## F250XLT

My E01's are missing from this pic, definitely need to get more...


----------



## Dr. Strangelove

I'm not into keychain lights because I like to keep my keychain as small as possible. But my Streamlight Stylus Pro (48 lumen model) takes 2 AAAs and fits perfectly in my shirt pocket after I moved the clip from the tailcap to the body. It meets 99% of my EDC needs, so I hardly use my NovaTac 120E anymore. My wife liked my EDC setup so much she asked for a Stylus Pro and 120E of her own.


----------



## lightningbug

This is very interesting! I was just going to start a new thread to discuss changes in EDC for myself and possibly others. I've always been a fan of tiny lights, and specifically AAA lights to EDC. 

When I first discovered Fenix back in 2005 or thereabouts, I bought an L1P from David Chow and a used L0P from another CPF'r. I loved the L1P and carried it everywhere, and loved it even more after modding the tailcap to make it a two stage light. I was never really happy about the beam, though. It always had too much hotspot, and not enough spill for my needs. The little L0P was fantastic, but not quite bright enough, and the battery life was poor. It forced me to buy a lot (a whole lot of rechargeable batteries). It seems as though whenever I was in a store that sold Nimh AAA, I bought some more. Then I bought an L2P, and an L2T, and an L1T body, and a custom 123 body for the L1T/L2T head. All the while trying to get the AA light smaller....more like the L0P. Then came a Peak Matterhorn, and a Holiday special red L0D, and the Special Edition L0D. All of which were disappointing at best. They were built well, but the brightness wasn't bright enough, and the steps between levels were a joke. Later I bought several of the ARC AAA clones here on CPF, and have been carrying one on a keychain for years. It has saved my *** several times in power failures, attics, under houses, on job sites without lighting etc. I have an Opti-Light AAA.....kind of a heavy duty ARC AAA clone on another keychain. That one saved a friend and I out hiking on Christmas eve when we were caught after sundown on top of a mountain with snow and ice on the trail, and about a 4 mile hike through the woods back to where we parked. I also purchased a pair of the L0D Anniversary specials from Fenix made from Titanium. One bears my name, and the other has a serial number that just happens to be my birth year. Nice, but still not bright enough and has those damn goofy disco modes.

So, I've carried HDS EDC Ultimate and basic, and been disappointed with the battery life. Other imports that run on 123's. Inova X1's, and those were really terrible. Less light than an Infinity Ultra (by CMG or Gerber), and had a ringy beam to boot! I've carried the Infinity Ultra constantly in my back pack, in my vehicles, in a BOB....because they provide more than just reading light, but you can navigate with them, and.....you can use a AAA in them! They and their little brother the Sonic, are good emergency lights. 

I tried the River Rock 2XAAA lights and they're quite good, but too blue. Then I got a customized 1xAAA Nuwai from Lambda lights. It has a 3W LED and their custom driver board. It puts out a lot of light with an excellent beam and fantastic run times. I love that little light, but it's a hair too big and one of those aforementioned clones modded by Millermods for me with a 3/4W LED. However, the clones have a tendency to seperate head from body while in pocket.

Anyways, after a long trial and error period, 123, AA, 17670 and AAA, I now carry lights that provide appreciable brightness, good runtime, multiple levels, and tiny size. I carry a SS Lumintop Worm with an LD01 clip, and either a Tank007 E09 or iTP A3 E0S with a clip side by side in my watch pocket. I have a small plastic battery case in a pocket with two extra LSD rechargeables, one Energizer Lithium, and one 10440 for the Tank if I'm carrying it. I sometimes wear a light on a neck lanyard as well. I don't even know they're there unless I need them. The reason for two, is the Worm (one of my favorite lights period) is a two mode, and the low is far too bright for reading. However, it lights up a room really well. The Tank and the iTP have a low level more appropriate for viewing the calender on my watch, blueprints, documents, shoe tying or just negotiating a dark path, yet both have the oomph for brighter requirements. The Tank has the most throw, the Worm is the floodiest, and the iTP in between. With the clips, I can just hang one on the bill of a cap and have my hands free, or stick it between my teeth.

Although, I've acquired some pretty amazing newer technology small lights such as the Zebralight SC51, and the Thrunite T10, AAA is the perfect EDC for me. I might add, I have an L2T and an E21 in my Pick Up, but having to install chains nearly every morning and evening to go work this past winter, I used one of my AAA pocket lights instead. 

In the event of a natural or man made disaster, I have enough of them to pass out to friends and family. I also have solar chargers knowing that we'll all have light when we need it.

What happens if there is a disaster here? Will you be able to find the power to charge your 18650's or other oddball batteries? I think having AAA (AA is great as well) is the best for EDC.


----------



## F250XLT

Well thought out post, thank you.:thumbsup:


----------



## melty

lightningbug said:


> In the event of a natural or man made disaster, I have enough of them to pass out to friends and family. I also have solar chargers knowing that we'll all have light when we need it.
> 
> What happens if there is a disaster here? Will you be able to find the power to charge your 18650's or other oddball batteries? I think having AAA (AA is great as well) is the best for EDC.



Nice post!

I think you answered your own question though. Use the sun to charge your oddball batteries.


----------



## kaichu dento

Here's some pics of lights I used to have, and a few that I still have as well. Not very good but I like looking at pictures!
(Sorry about the non-AAA lights!:sick2


----------



## F250XLT

Nice collection for sure, definitely makes me want more. I really need to find a Maratac Cu.


----------



## jorn

I have "lost" my maratac cu. I was in a hurry, dropped it, hit my foot, so it got kicked somewhere. I remember thinking, " i got to remember to get it out of there when i get home, or i'll never find it." Well, i dident. And now i cant even remember what room this happened in I have been crawling around inside for months, looking under the sink, drawers, beds, speakers etc. I had just modded it with a hi cri xp-g


----------



## F250XLT

jorn said:


> I have "lost" my maratac cu. I was in a hurry, dropped it, hit my foot, so it got kicked somewhere. I remember thinking, " i got to remember to get it out of there when i get home, or i'll never find it." Well, i dident. And now i cant even remember what room this happened in I have been crawling around inside for months, looking under the sink, drawers, beds, speakers etc. I had just modded it with a hi cri xp-g




Too bad you didn't kick it all the way to my house :naughty:


----------



## Zeruel

kaichu dento said:


> ...but I like looking at pictures!



Me too.  
Just luv them AAAs.


----------



## pjandyho

Oh Zeruel, you bought the Preon 0 eh? Never thought you were interested when I first showed it to you the last time we met.


----------



## jorn

Since we got all sorts of aaa maniacs here, what is your best aaa vampire?
My univex will go on forever, and it will eat cells that my other lights wont toutch. But i doubt it's the best vampire out there, and i dont got a million aaa lights to play with. Can you guys try to run a "emty" aaa troug your collections and point out the potential vampires?


----------



## F250XLT

Zeruel said:


> Me too.
> Just luv them AAAs.




Let me know if you want one of those Univex to leave your collection :naughty:


----------



## Zeruel

pjandyho said:


> Oh Zeruel, you bought the Preon 0 eh? Never thought you were interested when I first showed it to you the last time we met.



Mine was on its way when you showed it to me, didn't expect it to be a mule. It reached me about 2 days after our outing.





F250XLT said:


> Let me know if you want one of those Univex to leave your collection :naughty:



Maybe...just maybe.


----------



## F250XLT

Zeruel said:


> Maybe...just maybe.




Shoot me a PM when you're ready to discuss it


----------



## Jimbo75

jorn said:


> Since we got all sorts of aaa maniacs here, what is your best aaa vampire?
> My univex will go on forever, and it will eat cells that my other lights wont toutch. But i doubt it's the best vampire out there, and i dont got a million aaa lights to play with. Can you guys try to run a "emty" aaa troug your collections and point out the potential vampires?



Energizer battery reading .639 volts on a multimeter. Put it into 7 different aaa torches and the only one that would fire up was the Fenix E01. Others tested was 2 x preon 0, LD01 R5, LD01 R4, E05, Spark SK7, Microstream. 

Probably not too many here would be surprised that the E01 won. I would love to see if anything beats the E01 in someone's collection.


----------



## Incidentalist

I took a quick tally of my 1xAAAs and to put it simply, I've got a problem. I easily blew past the 100 mark. I counted over 90 aluminum/plastic lights alone. Many of them are cheap junk purchased off DX/KD. Not sure I'll take the time to photograph those. Maybe I'll dump them all in a pile on my bed, but don't get your hopes up. I did however take some quick pics of my SS lights:


























Sorry for the poor quality, I'm not a good photographer (if that isn't apparent enough already). I just felt with all the other great photos and the many times I've talked about my AAA collection, a few pictures were due.

In addition to the lights in the pictures, I have 5 other SS 1xAAA lights currently enroute to me. If it's stainless steel (or Titanium) and in a 1xAAA format, I will purchase it no matter what the other specs are. Far and away my favorite form factor.


----------



## Hiro Protagonist

I'm also a fan of the 1xAAA format. Here are some of my favorite 1xAAA lights 






(the 1xAA Volere snuck in the group photo )


----------



## emu124

:wow:

Awesome collection :thumbsup:

Let me know if you need help with birth control


----------



## don.gwapo

Just one for now! .


----------



## kaichu dento

Hiro Protagonist said:


> I'm also a fan of the 1xAAA format. Here are some of my favorite 1xAAA lights


Hiro, unless my eyes deceive me you have no LF2XTi from run #2! Looks like a good start anyway though.


----------



## Incidentalist

Hiro Protagonist said:


> I'm also a fan of the 1xAAA format. Here are some of my favorite 1xAAA lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the 1xAA Volere snuck in the group photo )





I'm having a hard time determining which light it is that you like so much.  Nice, VERY nice collection you have there!!!

Are the two at the front left hand corner bare al?


----------



## petr9999

i bet someone here can answer this, what is currently the brightest, lumen wise AAA flashlight(eneloop, not 10440)? preferably something that can fit a keychain


----------



## Burgess

MBI Torpedo


----------



## pjandyho

Burgess said:


> MBI Torpedo


Is MBI Torpedo out already? Or is it happening only on papers? Where can I order it?


----------



## petr9999

i am following the torpedo, and it is not out yet, what is?


----------



## jorn

The aaa lights are more or less the same in max output. The biggest bottleneck here are the battery, and only the torpedo is trying to work around that problem. For "output", i like my liteflux with a xp-e. The xp-e focuses better in aaa sized lights, so it looks brighter even with slightly less lumens. We can only see lux


----------



## AlphaZen

I love AAA lights. It is my favorite format and I agree that they can pretty much meet most needs in a given day with a wonderful slim form factor that just drops in the pocket. I usually have either a Fenix E05, LiteFlux LF2XT or a Thrunite Ti with me. All great lights for different reasons. I'd still like an LD01 and I can't wait for the Torpedo.


----------



## jorn

Jimbo75 said:


> Energizer battery reading .639 volts on a multimeter. Put it into 7 different aaa torches and the only one that would fire up was the Fenix E01. Others tested was 2 x preon 0, LD01 R5, LD01 R4, E05, Spark SK7, Microstream.
> 
> Probably not too many here would be surprised that the E01 won. I would love to see if anything beats the E01 in someone's collection.


My univex will eat batteries that even my arc stopped working with. Dont know how the arc compares with the E01, but they are similar, and both are known as good vampires. The univex wont stop to impresses me


----------



## Wiggle

I received a Preon 2 Titanium for Christmas and I just love it. It has replaced my QAA-T /w deep clip for most EDC purposes. It's funny because I had written off both multiple cells, and the AAA format as something I'd never want in an EDC. But the form factor is awesome, can't even feel it in the pocket. I had been using with the clip mostly but now I also let it go loose at times. It doesn't hurt that it's a pretty handsome light. Since I'm not easy on it the body had developed a fair amount of scratches, some deep especially around the clip area. But today I buffed out those scratches and made the finish just a wee-bit more polished than the stock satin finish.


----------



## fyrstormer

Incidentalist said:


> I took a quick tally of my 1xAAAs and to put it simply, I've got a problem. I easily blew past the 100 mark. I counted over 90 aluminum/plastic lights alone. Many of them are cheap junk purchased off DX/KD.


Figure out which ones you don't care much about, put them in a box for a month, and if you don't miss them, sell them. Sell them as a single batch if you don't want to be bothered selling them individually.


----------



## fyrstormer

Hiro Protagonist said:


> I'm also a fan of the 1xAAA format. Here are some of my favorite 1xAAA lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (the 1xAA Volere snuck in the group photo )


Wow. With all those LF2XTs, you can't possibly use them all. Can I have one?


----------



## F250XLT

Gotta love the Ti LF2XT's, just can't bring myself to pay the price.


----------



## fyrstormer

F250XLT said:


> Gotta love the Ti LF2XT's, just can't bring myself to pay the price.


Nope, not when people charge a thousand freaking dollars for them.


----------



## F250XLT

fyrstormer said:


> Nope, not when people charge a thousand freaking dollars for them.




As long as people keep paying reeeeediculous prices for them, they will never be reasonable again.


----------



## gunga

You guys are intense! I only have a few AAAs in my collection, but 2 of them are my full time EDCs. Both are high CRI, a stainless 4Sevens Preon Revo, and a Preon 1 Ti with clicky.

I am interested in those Uvivex a bit, but it's a bit late for me to get into those now (to hard to get and to much $ for me)...

Now if they ever came out with one that had rotary interface (like a Jetbeam TCR1), I'd be all over that!


----------



## melty

F250XLT said:


> As long as people keep paying reeeeediculous prices for them, they will never be reasonable again.



Blech. I can't even quite bring myself to pay collector prices for an aluminum one (for EDC). Oh, how I wish I'd been around when they were being produced.

Are there _any_ other AAA lights with ramping brightness control (capable of sub-lumen lows)? I really like my Peak Eiger QTC, but it's a bit finicky at the lowest levels.


----------



## Burgess

Hello Gunga --

:wave:

How did you get your Preon ReVo stainless-steel in High-CRI ? ? ?

Was it specially modified ?


Just curious.


-


----------



## gunga

Hi Burgess! Been a while! I've been a bit scarce the past year (got married etc...). Yes, I modded it myself. I have high CRI XPG in most of my lights. I like the comforting Warm tint.


----------



## PCC

My SS ReVO just got temporarily replaced by my first ever Peak. I picked up a used Peak in stainless steel from the MP that I can only try to call an early Matterhorn as it has a 3 X 5mm LED head. I don't actually know the model of this light, but, it's in great shape and I figured I'd try carrying it and give my ReVO a break. Oh, yeah, I dropped a QTC pill into the battery tube, made sure that it's sitting flat on the battery contact, then dropped the battery in and now I have infinitely variable output from this light right up to its maximum retina searing 10 lumens!


----------



## tacgearguy

I always have @ least 1 AAA light on me @ all times. Usually my streamlight micro stream or my preon 1 R5.


----------



## jabe1

PCC, be careful! The Peaks can be addicting!


----------



## PCC

No kidding. I'm resisting buying the Eiger that's listed in the MP...


----------



## jabe1

I think I'm at 8. It started innocently enough with an old brass Shasta.


----------



## PCC

Ooh, a brass Shasta...

I saw your ad looking for a Baltic right when I was going to post the exact same ad! I backed off thinking that two ads looking for the same light wouldn't end well. LOL!


----------



## PCC

I have no will power. I just bought that Eiger...


----------



## jabe1

You're a gonner...


----------



## HighlanderNorth

I too like the newer generation of AA's out now, and I just got in a 4 pack of newer 1500 charge 2000mah Eneloops with a charger I bought for my mother after a recent Fl vacation where I saw her changing out dead disposable AA's from her digital camera every day. I also just bought 4 new 2500mah Eneloops a week ago for myself(I already had a charger, and my Mom didnt, so I had to buy her the 2000mah ones that came with a charger).

I also own a 6-AA LED flashlight, which I like a lot, but still, in a small single battery light I'd prefer the 1-CR123 lights over AA lights, because they are usually shorter and often lighter, and have better battery life and/or more power.

But, I'm sure I will buy a 1-AA LED light relatively soon, as I like the ability to use AA's, since they are much more common and cheaper.


----------



## PCC

jabe1 said:


> You're a gonner...


Yes, yes I am...


----------



## squaat

For me it all started with the Fenix LD01. I grabbed two of their orig XP-E SS xmas editions , a couple of e01's which were eventually gifted,
Then an itp a3, which became my defacto gifting light for awhile. I've lost count how many people I've given an itp a3 to. After that I got my hands on a SS ReVo, that's been my edc since I got it. Managed to convince two of my co-workers to get them too.

More recently I've been playing with 4Sevens Preon P0's, the 2nd revision was a great step forward for an already great design. That and the Thrunite Ti have become my gifting lights.

Only wish there was something small and clicky within the sub $20 price range.


----------



## jk037

Love 'em. Just comparing something like my Black Cat HM-01 (cost: £5.17 inc delivery from the other side of the planet) to my Maglite Solitaire (cost: £20 13 years ago, when £20 was a lot of money to my teenage self!) shows how far things have moved on. 

The modern AAA lights are not only tiny but also properly powerful, and the "posher" lights such as the iTP A3 even squeeze in multiple modes so you can make your own compromise between output and runtime (and even on low it's still much brighter than a Solitaire!).

That said, I do find the 1xAAA format is actually _too_ small for EDC and tends to slip out of a pocket when sitting down! So my pocket light is a 1xAA Quark Mini, with at least one of my AAA lights kept in the car as a backup.


----------



## jorn

Some tints. 
Just got some nichita219. There are 2 of them in this pic. Can you find them?


----------



## Henk_Lu

jorn said:


> Some tints.
> Just got some nichita219. There are 2 of them in this pic. Can you find them?



Should be the two ones on the right side, but I wonder what the second and third from left are in that case?

So, at a second thought I think that the second and the third from left are the Nichias, the first in an XP-G high CRI, fou, five and seven some cool white (five an XR-E?) and the two on the right neutral whites...


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

:thinking: _From the left, number two and six._ _What do I win? _:fail:

~_ Chance 


_


----------



## jorn

Henk_Lu said:


> So, at a second thought I think that the second and the third from left are the Nichias, the first in an XP-G high CRI, fou, five and seven some cool white (five an XR-E?) and the two on the right neutral whites...


So close on all 
From the left. 1: the preon2 hi cri, 2: Lumintop worm with a nichita219, 3: lumapower lm21 with nichita219, 4: DQG III xp-g, 5: DQG I xp-e, 6: lf2xt neurtal xp-e with a 10440, 7 : A DQG III with a preon p0 pill 25 lumen xp-e. 8: univex aaa warm xp-g in flood tir. 9: preon P0 with neutral DQG pill. 

The lumapower (nr3) is dim. Can almost compare it with nr7 (the 25 lumen P0 pill in a dqg with tir optic.) I read about bad switches causing the lack of brightness, but the wires on this thing is really really thin. So it might also play a role.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

F250XLT said:


> Yeah, you're kinda missing the point of the thread...:laughing: It's about my appreciation of AAA lights, not alternatives.




Not to seem too out of touch here, but I wasnt even aware that there were any higher end AAA flashlights available. I've seen some cheap AAA lights, but not any truly good quality AAA lights from reputable manufacturers, so this is news to me.

I did just order a single AA light the night before last, an Eagletac D25 Ti. Thats the only single AA light I have, aside from a 6-AA light.


----------



## Lite_me

Those beam shots are just one indication why I love my LF2XTs. Perfect tint, amongst so many other virtues.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

HighlanderNorth said:


> Not to seem too out of touch here, but I wasnt even aware that there were any higher end AAA flashlights available. ......... so this is news to me.



_Same here, I have a Preon ReVO that I really enjoy but after that I had no idea. Thanks Tim for a great thread. 

~ Chance

_


----------



## JCup

jorn said:


> I have "lost" my maratac cu. - I have been crawling around inside for months, looking under the sink, drawers, beds, speakers etc. I had just modded it with a hi cri xp-g



Well, I like the AAA format, too. I have had Fenix LOD, LD01, E01, E05, Maratac. And for this format, I usually get at least two of the favorite, because one will be "lost" in some strange coat pocket, under the seat cushion, set on a table with a magazine on top, etc., so I use the alternate.

E05 is amazing to me. Cheap, simple, good runtime, and at close range provides a nice even pattern. Mine have made several trips through the washer. Whenever I wear jeans, there is an E05 in the watch pocket.


----------



## BlueTangClam

What I hate most about AAA is that the price is usually the same if not more than AA for 1/3 the energy and not much smaller. I would never buy a AAA flashlight.


----------



## kaichu dento

Nothing to hate about any light but I'm glad you took the effort to make your third post in four years and spent it writing about your dislike for one of our favorite form factors.


----------



## jorn

BlueTangClam said:


> What I hate most about AAA is that the price is usually the same if not more than AA for 1/3 the energy and not much smaller. I would never buy a AAA flashlight.


The size is the key, aa wont come close to a aaa light.And they are just as expensive to make. How mutch less should we pay for a light with 5-10g less alu in it ? The size of the host is no big price factor. 10gram with alu is cheap. The work that are put into the lights are not cheap. Smallest cr123 vs smallest aaa vs smallest aa. 





If runtimes means everything, we would all use 26650 lights with a 5mm led. It's a edc. So I can charge it every day if i need to, but usually i cange batt once or twice a month on my most used aaa light. Runtimes is no issues.
If you never would buy a aaa light, then you will never experience the joy of always having a tiny little light with you at all times.


----------



## Overclocker

i used to have several AAA lights, until i figured that a small AA isn't much bigger but gives a lot more runtime


----------



## F250XLT

kaichu dento said:


> Nothing to hate about any light but I'm glad you took the effort to make your third post in four years and spent it writing about your dislike for one of our favorite form factors.





Right?


:laughing:




Overclocker said:


> i used to have several AAA lights, until i figured that a small AA isn't much bigger but gives a lot more runtime




No worries, not everyone gets it


----------



## rewdee

jorn said:


> The size is the key, aa wont come close to a aaa light.And they are just as expensive to make. How mutch less should we pay for a light with 5-10g less alu in it ? The size of the host is no big price factor. 10gram with alu is cheap. The work that are put into the lights are not cheap. Smallest cr123 vs smallest aaa vs smallest aa.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If runtimes means everything, we would all use 26650 lights with a 5mm led. It's a edc. So I can charge it every day if i need to, but usually i cange batt once or twice a month on my most used aaa light. Runtimes is no issues.
> If you never would buy a aaa light, then you will never experience the joy of always having a tiny little light with you at all times.



What is that right at the middle?


----------



## F250XLT

rewdee said:


> What is that right at the middle?




I think that one is called, The Short & Slippery AAA :laughing:


----------



## melty

rewdee said:


> What is that right at the middle?



Looks like a polished Preon 0. Now the question is whether it came that way or was done by the owner.


----------



## pjandyho

rewdee said:


> What is that right at the middle?


Looks like the Preon P0 to me.


----------



## jorn

Yes it's the preon. It's so small that it fits the batteri drill. A rag with some rubbing, 3000 rpm, and its shiny in 1 min. It's been on a keychain, so it's starting to get scratched up again. It's not slippery as long as it's on a keychain, and i use a polished maratac clip on it for handsfree tasks. it helps alot on the grip when off the chain.


----------



## PCC

left to right, all cool white:
4Sevens MiNi 123
4Sevens Preon ReVO SS
Peak Matterhorn triple high output with SS lugged body
Peak Eiger QTC with aluminum pocket body
4Sevens Preon 1 blue
4Sevens Preon 1 blue
4Sevens MiNi AA
ThruNite T10


----------



## PCC

Oh, yeah, I tried pocket carrying the MiNi AA and the T10 and they're just thick enough to be annoying. I added the clip to the T10 to clip it onto my pocket to make it more carryable. The slightly shorter but much thinner AAA lights just disappear into my pocket without an issue, even the heavier SS ones.


----------



## badtziscool

PCC said:


> 4Sevens Preon ReVO SS



Where did you get that cap on the Preon ReVO? Does it act like a diffuser?


----------



## SDM44

Our neighborhood had a power outage from Sunday morning through Monday afternoon. So Sunday night I had all of my flashlights out in use, making my house look like I had the sun trapped inside of it (when looking at it from the outside in a pitch black neighborhood).

I was using my TM11 to light up rooms, shining it onto the ceiling, and also my L2P (with a "800 lumen" XM-L drop in) quite a bit to get around. Then I decided to use my LD01 and iTP A3 since they're smaller and I needed to do things while holding onto the flashlight at the same time. The AAA lights with a 10440 were seriously just as bright as the L2P in the dark rooms, and more than adequate for lighting... and actually better in most cases since the spill was much greater than on the L2P, and the hotspot wasn't as bright & unbearable to look at with the AAA lights.

The only downside with running the 10440's was that I only got about 15 min of use from them before they needed to be recharged. And putting in AAA alkalines into the lights after running a 10440 is kind of a let down in performance .


----------



## PCC

It's a diffuser that I made myself. I think I went into this three or four pages back in this very thread. LOL!


----------



## russde

SDM44 said:


> Our neighborhood had a power outage from Sunday morning through Monday afternoon. So Sunday night I had all of my flashlights out in use, making my house look like I had the sun trapped inside of it (when looking at it from the outside in a pitch black neighborhood)..



I've got to wonder if members here don't actually LOVE it when the power goes out. It's almost a dream come true...'See?, I told you I was right to stockpile flashlights and batteries'


----------



## fyrstormer

Yep, then you use one or two batteries and then the lights come back on, at which point you dash off to the Internet to buy a couple more cases of batteries so you can be even more prepared next time.

Most "apocalypse"-type speculation is caused by instinctive terror of what might go wrong next, which everyone has to a certain extent. It can be problematic to deal with that instinct in a society that is as safe as ours is. Some people cope with their instinctive terror by defining it in terms of the everyday problems they *have* actually dealt with, such as power outages or neighborhood prowlers, as a way to narrow down the scope of the terror so it's...well...less terrifying. But then, once they have a concept of the _type_ of problem that might catch them off-guard but no reasonable limit on its _severity_, their instinctive terror pushes them to prepare for the worst imaginable scenario of that type. Since the instinct to worry about what could go wrong never goes away, they never stop imagining ever-more-apocalyptic scenarios, so they never stop preparing. They end up with drawers full of batteries, basements full of canned food, gun safes packed to the brim, or whatever else makes them feel like they're prepared for the worst. And if they ever get to use any of that stuff they've stockpiled, well, that just proves they were right all along.

They're _not_ right, though. Look at the guy who built that bunker out in Washington State. He spent years preparing for the apocalypse. Ultimately he _did_ experience a worst-case scenario, albeit one of his own making, and the entire world _really did_ come to get him. Did he win? No, of course he didn't. He hid in his bunker, assessed the situation, realized he had no hope left, and killed himself. He didn't get to use _any_ of that stuff he stockpiled. If the world ever really does turn against someone, that person doesn't stand a chance. Nobody can survive an apocalypse just by stocking up on everything they might need ahead of time; the only chance anyone has to survive in a true disaster is to be willing to walk away from everything that can't be carried easily, and start improvising like crazy. That's what every other species on on Earth has to do, every single day, and it's worked for 3 billion years.

EDIT: Sorry, that was kind of a rant. Work is boring today.


----------



## badtziscool

fyrstormer said:


> Yep, then you use one or two batteries and then the lights come back on, at which point you dash off to the Internet to buy a couple more cases of batteries so you can be even more prepared next time.
> 
> Most "apocalypse"-type speculation is caused by instinctive terror of what might go wrong next, which everyone has to a certain extent. It can be problematic to deal with that instinct in a society that is as safe as ours is. Some people cope with their instinctive terror by defining it in terms of the everyday problems they *have* actually dealt with, such as power outages or neighborhood prowlers, as a way to narrow down the scope of the terror so it's...well...less terrifying. But then, once they have a concept of the _type_ of problem that might catch them off-guard but no reasonable limit on its _severity_, their instinctive terror pushes them to prepare for the worst imaginable scenario of that type. Since the instinct to worry about what could go wrong never goes away, they never stop imagining ever-more-apocalyptic scenarios, so they never stop preparing. They end up with drawers full of batteries, basements full of canned food, gun safes packed to the brim, or whatever else makes them feel like they're prepared for the worst. And if they ever get to use any of that stuff they've stockpiled, well, that just proves they were right all along.
> 
> They're _not_ right, though. Look at the guy who built that bunker out in Washington State. He spent years preparing for the apocalypse. Ultimately he _did_ experience a worst-case scenario, albeit one of his own making, and the entire world _really did_ come to get him. Did he win? No, of course he didn't. He hid in his bunker, assessed the situation, realized he had no hope left, and killed himself. He didn't get to use _any_ of that stuff he stockpiled. If the world ever really does turn against someone, that person doesn't stand a chance. Nobody can survive an apocalypse just by stocking up on everything they might need ahead of time; the only chance anyone has to survive in a true disaster is to be willing to walk away from everything that can't be carried easily, and start improvising like crazy. That's what every other species on on Earth has to do, every single day, and it's worked for 3 billion years.
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, that was kind of a rant. Work is boring today.



I agree with you 110% on this. But it does give us a reason to stock up on fun stuff like knives, guns, and lights. 

But back to the topic. I just received my very first AAA light; a Preon Revo SS. This is a REALLY nice light! I love the knurling and the flutes in the head. And since its SS, it feels indestructable. And it's bright! It's a mystery as to why 47 discontinued this model.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

:huh:


----------



## jorn

badtziscool said:


> It's a mystery as to why 47 discontinued this model.


It's not a mystery. David have explained why he did stop making them somewhere on this forum.


----------



## badtziscool

jorn said:


> It's not a mystery. David have explained why he did stop making them somewhere on this forum.



Do you remember what that reason was?

edit:

nm. Here it is. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...scontinued-!&p=3760269&viewfull=1#post3760269


----------



## bltkmt

PCC said:


> left to right, all cool white:
> 4Sevens MiNi 123
> 4Sevens Preon ReVO SS
> Peak Matterhorn triple high output with SS lugged body
> Peak Eiger QTC with aluminum pocket body
> 4Sevens Preon 1 blue
> 4Sevens Preon 1 blue
> 4Sevens MiNi AA
> ThruNite T10



What is the clip and cap you have on the T10?


----------



## fyrstormer

badtziscool said:


> I agree with you 110% on this. But it does give us a reason to stock up on fun stuff like knives, guns, and lights.
> 
> But back to the topic. I just received my very first AAA light; a Preon Revo SS. This is a REALLY nice light! I love the knurling and the flutes in the head. And since its SS, it feels indestructable. And it's bright! It's a mystery as to why 47 discontinued this model.


Heh. I was just referring to people who have transcended from collecting as a hobby to stockpiling pathologically. I have over 20 titanium lights and I'm still collecting parts, but it's not because I think they'll somehow save my butt someday; I just like the way they look. The only one that will save my butt is the one (okay, two) that I actually carry with me.


----------



## PCC

bltkmt said:


> What is the clip and cap you have on the T10?





PCC said:


> I added the clip to the T10 to clip it onto my pocket to make it more carryable.



The clip was ordered from Dark Sucks and was originally intended to be used with the Peak Eiger. The cap was made on the lathe.


----------



## summer

I know I love mine...


----------



## Blueskies123

ITP A3E0S in stainless steel in my my favorite EDC. I wanted to give some away as a gift but it seems they do not make them anymore. I see a Titanium version but SS if fine for gifts. Does anyone know why they stopped making them or where I can get them?


----------



## Sno4Life

Blueskies123 said:


> ITP A3E0S in stainless steel in my my favorite EDC. I wanted to give some away as a gift but it seems they do not make them anymore. I see a Titanium version but SS if fine for gifts. Does anyone know why they stopped making them or where I can get them?



They are now made under the OLight name (A3)


----------



## F250XLT

Blueskies123 said:


> ITP A3E0S in stainless steel in my my favorite EDC. I wanted to give some away as a gift but it seems they do not make them anymore. I see a Titanium version but SS if fine for gifts. Does anyone know why they stopped making them or where I can get them?




Great idea, I LOVE gifts


----------



## Pontiaker

Just picked up the new LED Lenser P3 AFS P and it just blows me away. Never been a fan of the Lenser lights but this damn this is so bright, brighter longer throwing spot than any of my other AAA lights and it does it with a single Alkaline battery! Its brighter than any of my AAA lights running the 10440 too! Just wish it had a low mode. If you like small super bright pocket power house type EDC lights dont pass this one up. Almost forgot, its under $30 too!
Matt


----------



## F250XLT

Pocketed the LF2XT today, but looking forward to the Ti DGQ II.....Hopefully it shows up soon.


----------



## borealis

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> *Page 4 Picture Recap*. *Tim, your thread has me [email protected]@King at my piggy bank......and piggy has a scared look on his face. *
> 
> _*~ Chance*_


Wow. Now my piggy is scared. Could someone indulge a noob and name these lights? Here's what I've got, please append or correct:
Thrunite TiKey| Peak Eiger 10180 SS | La Petite Killer| Drake | MiX5 | Wee | Streamlight Nano | TiFly | 38DD | 40DD
(thanks bla2000 and HKJ)


----------



## bla2000

borealis said:


> Wow. Now my piggy is scared. Could someone indulge a noob and name these lights? Here's what I've got, please append or correct:
> ? | Peak Eiger 10180 SS | La Petite Killer | Aeon AlTin | MiX5 | Wee | ?Streamlight Nano? | ? | 38DD | 40DD.



I think those are the ThurNite TiKey and the wvaltakis2 TiFli.


----------



## HKJ

borealis said:


> Wow. Now my piggy is scared. Could someone indulge a noob and name these lights? Here's what I've got, please append or correct:
> ? | Peak Eiger 10180 SS | La Petite Killer | Aeon AlTin | MiX5 | Wee | ?Streamlight Nano? | ? | 38DD | 40DD.



Thrunite TiKey| Peak Eiger 10180 SS | La Petite Killer | Drake | MiX5 | Wee | Streamlight Nano | TiFly | 38DD | 40DD. 

A few more small lights:





Shiny AAA (Steel or titanium):


----------



## easilyled

HKJ, that's a lot of love right there! :bow:


----------



## F250XLT

:wow:


----------



## HKJ

I just got some new DQG II lights in titanium, they are number 4 and 5. The reason number 5 tilts is due to the magnet in the tail.
The Bronte is supposed to be stainless steel.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

I EDC my Thrunite Ti. 60 lumens with a brilliant white floody beam, took the belt clip off my Streamlight 2xAAA and now it's PERFECT!

Plus the 0.04 lumen firefly is perfect for getting ready for bed without disturbing the wife when I'm up late working in my garage or something. 

1xAAA FTW!


----------



## GordoJones88

F250XLT said:


> *Very difficult NOT to love AAA's these days. *



I Love You AAA's. Please Marry Me!


----------



## F250XLT

The newest addition, Ti DGQ II...


----------



## LiteTheWay

This still has to be THE best AAA light around. I am sorry I didn't buy more when I could.




F250XLT said:


> Pocketed the LF2XT today, but looking forward to the Ti DGQ II.....Hopefully it shows up soon.


----------



## borealis

HKJ said:


> Thrunite TiKey| Peak Eiger 10180 SS | La Petite Killer | Drake | MiX5 | Wee | Streamlight Nano | TiFly | 38DD | 40DD


Thanks! I was close 

I'm a big fan of your reviews (and just now I realized had I looked at your small lights review I would have seen all the missing names)...


----------



## F250XLT

7histology said:


> This still has to be THE best AAA light around. I am sorry I didn't buy more when I could.



I believe they are still available for purchase.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

F250XLT said:


> The newest addition, Ti DGQ II...





You're keychain is the exact opposite of mine. I have many, many more keys(many of which are no longer in use, and I dont even remember what the h*ll they were for anyway at this point). That and although I now have 2 AAA lights(Preon 2 and Thrunite AAA), neither of them is connected to my keychain. I just dont have the room, what with all the unnecessary keys taking up the space..... 

Now that I look at it, I just realized I have a key for a car I haven't owned for about 6 years! Not to mention some pad lock keys that fit padlocks lost since 2004!


Yep, my keychain is one area in life where my organizational skills are pretty much non-existent.....

But yeah, I do like the AAA lights. I just got my 1st one the FourSevens Preon 2 just 3 days ago, and the Thrunite one yesterday, and both are pretty impressive for their size and battery power. They dont have the battery life, but I am using my Tenergy Centura AAA LSD batteries to fill them, making their power very cheap anyway.


----------



## rtryland

> Shiny AAA (Steel or titanium):



What is the light four in from the right? I'm seriously digging it.


----------



## HKJ

rtryland said:


> What is the light four in from the right? I'm seriously digging it.



That must be the UltraFire A2, I have included it in a beamshot here.


----------



## biglights

F250XLT said:


> I think that one is called, The Short & Slippery AAA :laughing:




Just what I was thinking


----------



## jaycyu

I recently unboxed an AAA flashlight. The output impressed me for a such a small light, and the clicky feels right. I wish I got silver like these instead of lipstick red though, since the paint is getting chip off.


----------



## rambo180

ChrisGarrett said:


> If Maglite Solitaire can be fine
> 
> Chris



Can be fine if you want to light up a 3cm^2 space no more than 5cm away from the flashlight head. *jokes*


----------



## rambo180

HKJ said:


> That must be the UltraFire A2, I have included it in a beamshot here.



That is an amazing link.


----------



## F250XLT

rambo180 said:


> That is an amazing link.




WOW, it certainly is.


----------



## Bafanafa

F250XLT said:


> WOW, it certainly is.



+1

I have to say that the AAA light is probably my favorite because of its compact size. In addition to that, the technology is getting better all the time (higher output, longer run times) so why wouldn't you love 'em. :twothumbs


----------



## whateatsrabbits

I like my ez-red pocket flood, its just not reliable. I liked the streamlight micro stream but lost it. Now that Ive become a tint snob and in the market for a keychain light, Ive got 2 in the mail. A peak eiger lug with nichia 219 because I love peaks, and a dqg ii ti r4 because you guys seem to like em. Ive also started stocking up on energizer ultimate lithium AAAs.


----------



## allyourblood

I love AAA lights. The size is hard to beat and companies are really cranking out the lumens nowadays. I carry an Olight i3 with me all the time and it's tops. I think I'm gonna try a Preon 2 next.


----------



## mzil

No light is perfect for all situations, but overall AAA ones are the best because they are the smallest, lightest flashlight with reasonable runtime and output, that runs on a very common battery which is both affordable and easy to find just about anywhere, even when far from home. This makes them the ultimate 24/7 EDC.


----------



## powernoodle

_EO1._


----------



## borealis

Has anyone successfully installed a QTC pill into any AAA lights (other than Peak)?


----------



## ProjeKtWEREWOLF

I have a lovely little ThruNite Ti (from their recent promotion), which is great. It inspired enough confidence in me to buy a TN11.


----------



## 5CardBLAZE

I looked at the 4Sevens Preon 0, but was scared off it due to ginormous flood --- much much greater than Fenix E05
I've been very happy with the *Fenix E05*. I consider_* it *_to be the benchmark for comparison.
The Klarus Mi X6 on medium setting is _slightly_ dimmer than the E05. The Titanium Innovations CA1 IlluminaTi on medium setting is only very _very slightly_ dimmer than the E05.
The fault with the Klarus is it's much longer at 70mm+ and not a 'real' spring for battery bottom --- it has a brass spring-washer which _WILL_ get bent back to too flat of a shape and loose electrical connection, _IF ONE PERFORMS A DROP TEST --- LANYARD MOUNT DOWN, UPON RELEASE FROM HAND_. But *not* if drop tested horizontally and *not* if drop tested Head [ reflector ] down.
The fault with the Titanium Innovations is the _offensively annoying_ Pulse flicker and very slightly too narrow of a beam hot-spot for flood.
The PWM flicker is not possible to notice when shining on normal objects and bright reflective surfaces like white painted walls.
But have a 'shiny ' speck somewhere (such as like a chromed door handle) and Oh! Oh! Oh! I hate that! It reminds me of modern car red LED tail lights ---- I hate it. Any observable flicker is not present on high; it's gone.

I have on order the NiteCore T2s. I will be comparing it head-to-head with the Klarus; which seems to be it's main rival.
Does anybody know if the NiteCore comes in a Ti version or does it only come in the Al version which I'm getting in the mail?

For head-to-head comparison to my 'benchmark' Fenix E05, I'm now looking to the Spark SK7.
Who likes the Spark ? Is its one brightness mode flicker free like the E05 ?
Is the Spark 0.4mm thinner than the E05 and is it 1mm shorter than the E05 ?

Can you guess I'm fishing for input here . . . . . .


----------



## twl

I would say that with normal batteries you won't see any appreciable difference in brightness between the Spark SK7 and Fenix E05. They are close in output.
And the size is close enough that you probably won't notice any appreciable difference there either.

BUT, where you 'might' notice an appreciable difference is that the Spark SK7 is stated to be able to accept a 10440 li-ion battery, which should yield a MUCH higher output when you use that battery.
The Fenix E05 has no such ability.

I think THAT is your difference.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> _I would probably love it.....if I hadn't been cheap and had bought a stainless one. Yes,.........I would definitely love a stainless ReVO. _
> 
> ~ _Chance_





F250XLT said:


> It's never too late...


 

_Hi Tim, _

_Well I finally broke-down and bought a stainless steel brother for the ReVO. No it's not a ReVO, but a Fenix LD01. Found some for sale on eBay. 

Cheers, 

~ Chance


_


----------



## Lucky Duck

F250XLT said:


> IMO, there are far better options out there for the money. Arc pretty much got left in the dust, quite a while ago...



Arc AAA FOREVER! I just gotta say, I've carried mine on my key ring for 6-7 years now. It always works & is plenty bright for my purposes!


----------



## jorn

The arc is great. When your other lights have "drained" a battery. The arc will suck them dry. So i wont say it got left in the dust. Yea, it's dim. But it runs for hours with the depleted batteries that my other light's have "drained"..


----------



## sqchram

Ok, some weird subliminal triggers have just fired off a pavlovian response in my head..

So I have a Steve Ku Ti Liteflux LF2XT, green trit. Love it, switch went bad...

I threw the li-ion into my Al Maratac AAA - wow what a little powerhouse! Brighter and cleaner beam that my 4Sevens mini 123 XPG R5!

I like how its so slim and light, much more so than the full Ti liteflux body - which looks and feels great though.

I pocket carry a SWM V10R Ti+ in my work pants, which are 7 pocket tactical pants, but I won't EDC it in jeans. I need a better clip for the Maratac so I can EDC it in jeans.


----------



## martinaee

cccpull said:


> Yep, sure do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not the most powerful, but it fills the bill.



I don't think leatherman even makes or puts their name on lights anymore do they? I was looking at their site the other day for any new multi-tools and they don't have a section on their site for flashlights anymore.


----------



## leddite

jorn said:


> The arc is great. When your other lights have "drained" a battery. The arc will suck them dry. So i wont say it got left in the dust. Yea, it's dim. But it runs for hours with the depleted batteries that my other light's have "drained"..



alas, one of my favorite AAA flashlights... have several flavors in IR and UV and a LE... the regular one, which was always on my keychain as backup... just stopped working reliably.

center solder joint i thought was "cold" - didn't help. could be the crimp. when it DOES work, it's fine, but then it kinda goes dim and then just won't power up (fresh batteries and all). it's LE cousin is 100% though.

perhaps there's a simple way to fix it, or will just have to snag a fenix or nitecore or something.


----------



## jorn

Remove the foam and check the solder joint for the -path (that connects the outer ring of the driver and the head). Bought mine used and had to put alittle blob there to make it stop flickering.


----------



## Quiksilver

martinaee said:


> I don't think leatherman even makes or puts their name on lights anymore do they? I was looking at their site the other day for any new multi-tools and they don't have a section on their site for flashlights anymore.



Since Leatherman purchased LED Lenser, I think they have stopped manufacturing their own lights and just funneling that budget into LED Lenser. 

http://www.leatherman.com/about/release?id=36

...


And I consider the Fenix E05 to be the benchmark keychain light.

Not the best at anything, but small, bright, durable, and reasonably cheap. 

Yes you can always fork out more cash for better lights than the E05, but personally having handled some of them, I don't see much value added for the additional cost.


----------



## Quiksilver

fyrstormer said:


> Yep, then you use one or two batteries and then the lights come back on, at which point you dash off to the Internet to buy a couple more cases of batteries so you can be even more prepared next time.
> 
> Most "apocalypse"-type speculation is caused by instinctive terror of what might go wrong next, which everyone has to a certain extent. It can be problematic to deal with that instinct in a society that is as safe as ours is. Some people cope with their instinctive terror by defining it in terms of the everyday problems they *have* actually dealt with, such as power outages or neighborhood prowlers, as a way to narrow down the scope of the terror so it's...well...less terrifying. But then, once they have a concept of the _type_ of problem that might catch them off-guard but no reasonable limit on its _severity_, their instinctive terror pushes them to prepare for the worst imaginable scenario of that type. Since the instinct to worry about what could go wrong never goes away, they never stop imagining ever-more-apocalyptic scenarios, so they never stop preparing. They end up with drawers full of batteries, basements full of canned food, gun safes packed to the brim, or whatever else makes them feel like they're prepared for the worst. And if they ever get to use any of that stuff they've stockpiled, well, that just proves they were right all along.
> 
> They're _not_ right, though. Look at the guy who built that bunker out in Washington State. He spent years preparing for the apocalypse. Ultimately he _did_ experience a worst-case scenario, albeit one of his own making, and the entire world _really did_ come to get him. Did he win? No, of course he didn't. He hid in his bunker, assessed the situation, realized he had no hope left, and killed himself. He didn't get to use _any_ of that stuff he stockpiled. If the world ever really does turn against someone, that person doesn't stand a chance. Nobody can survive an apocalypse just by stocking up on everything they might need ahead of time; the only chance anyone has to survive in a true disaster is to be willing to walk away from everything that can't be carried easily, and start improvising like crazy. That's what every other species on on Earth has to do, every single day, and it's worked for 3 billion years.
> 
> EDIT: Sorry, that was kind of a rant. Work is boring today.



Reminds me of a scene from The Road (2009).

The scene where they encounter the stocked-to-the-brim bunker. 

The owners of said bunker, died in their beds and the scene indicated they committed suicide via pills.

People building doomsday preps, when a real doomsday comes, they may realize that living in a bunker eating tinned fruit and spam indefinitely, is worse than death. I'm sure many preppers will 'opt out' when they realize what they're in for, if it ever does unfold according to their imaginations.

I am sufficiently prepared for a year or so on stockpile alone, but I would rather die than live in a bunker alone (solitary confinement). 



Its pretty much concluded that for physical and psychological long-term survival in a 'doomsday' scenario, a community/tribe/village is necessary, and in that case, a bunker buried 30ft underground becomes useless.


----------



## twl

Quiksilver said:


> Reminds me of a scene from The Road (2009).
> 
> The scene where they encounter the stocked-to-the-brim bunker.
> 
> The owners of said bunker, died in their beds and the scene indicated they committed suicide via pills.
> 
> People building doomsday preps, when a real doomsday comes, they may realize that living in a bunker eating tinned fruit and spam indefinitely, is worse than death. I'm sure many preppers will 'opt out' when they realize what they're in for, if it ever does unfold according to their imaginations.
> 
> I am sufficiently prepared for a year or so on stockpile alone, but I would rather die than live in a bunker alone (solitary confinement).
> 
> 
> 
> Its pretty much concluded that for physical and psychological long-term survival in a 'doomsday' scenario, a community/tribe/village is necessary, and in that case, a bunker buried 30ft underground becomes useless.



It's not useless if that tribe or village has no food, and you had the foresight to have enough for them to survive until things can be planted and harvested.
Then you can have the village AND some mighty grateful friends to start off the new village.
A LOT of people will have nothing.

Sorry for contributing to the OT drift.

I have a AAA light, but it's not what I depend on. But it's nice to have one.


----------



## tobrien

what about suburban zombies? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xyhVO-SWfM


----------



## pjandyho

Haha! I can't help laughing! Racist zombies eh?


----------



## Maxbelg

It is indeed difficult not to love AAA flashlights these days. I love the form factor and the fact that you can get batteries everywhere (even salvaged from other equipment) if necessary. The problem is which one to choose! These days I usually carry the McGizmo Sapphire 25, although I like the Sapphire Mule even more and like the Mako and the Fenix LD01 a lot too.

Here's a crappy cellphone pic of my current collection. From left to right:
Fenix E05 alu, Mako 15° ti, Peak Nichia 219 SS, Peak High Cri XPG SS, Fenix E01 alu, Titaner xpg R5 ti, DQG III SS, Fenix LD01 xpg R5 SS, McGizmo High CRI Mule ti, McGizmo Sapphire 25 GS ti, Preon Revo neutral xpg R5 SS, Arc-P alu, Fenix E01 alu


----------



## awyeah

I really love gifting the iTP A3 EOS. For $20, it's a great light that everyone loves.


----------



## Chrono

i'm sure you are kidding here when you say investment but just as an opinion do you think these brand name AAA flashlight will hold their value say in 10 years when other more advanced lights have come out?


----------



## tobrien

Chrono said:


> i'm sure you are kidding here when you say investment but just as an opinion do you think these brand name AAA flashlight will hold their value say in 10 years when other more advanced lights have come out?



depends really. some old(er) Surefire lights are worth a LOT more nowadays. I will say, though, I don't recall Surefire having ever produced a AAA light but just an example.

Some lights do keep some good value, just depends on who's buying it I suppose ("one man's trash is another man's treasure" so to speak)


----------



## AlphaZen

I have an LF2XT that has been a wonderful investment.


----------



## Isaiah6113

Love my LD01!

Was at a family gathering last weekend. We were, well I was, talking lights due to having given 3 ET D25A Clickies to my family and myself an LD01. (In addition to my ET P20A2 and Maratac AA Extreme).

One our guests went and got his multi-LED 2xAA and I said to him, "shine it on that pillar over there." . . . Well my little LD01 overwhelmed his light: tighter beam, lovely tint, brighter, overall heads above. He was stunned.

I placed my little LD01 in my pocket and shuffled off . . .


----------



## Fireclaw18

AlphaZen said:


> I have an LF2XT that has been a wonderful investment.



I have a couple LF2XTs that I'm afraid to use because they are so valuable. One is natural anodize with the stock neutral tint emitter. Other is black anodize with an emitter upgrade by Steve Ku to XPG R5.

I wonder what the black one would look like with the emitter swapped to XPG2....


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

Fireclaw18 said:


> I wonder what the black one would look like with the emitter swapped to XPG2....



Dimmer, I think, XPG2's need power to really shine.


----------



## jorn

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Dimmer, I think, XPG2's need power to really shine.


Nah. it's brighter. The result from a led swap from xp-g -->xpg2 was way better than i tought it would be. Got some xp-g vs xp-g2 shots from a aaa light in the xp-g2 thread in the led section. Brighter hotspot, brighter pill.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

jorn said:


> Nah. it's brighter. The result from a led swap from xp-g -->xpg2 was way better than i tought it would be. Got some xp-g vs xp-g2 shots from a aaa light in the xp-g2 thread in the led section. Brighter hotspot, brighter pill.



Thanks for that, Vin threw one in my Haiku, it seemed no brighter than the 119.


----------



## Lightman2

MiX6 Ti Klarus ...... 1 x AAA. Small, tough, three light levels plus strobe. What more could you want?


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

.......A picture. 

~ Chance


----------



## jorn

For the mix6, i want a real spring at the tail  Had the gold plated one, but never got used to the twist action with no positive stop when on.


----------



## TweakMDS

A small tribute to AAA's (seems like the right place for it).
I was rummaging in a drawer with camera accessories earlier and found a few PowerEx Imedion (their eneloops, 800mAh) and one other AAA rechargeables. Most were 800mAh and must have been there for at least 3 years, possibly 4 or more. I initially bought these to use with my Cactus v4 flash receivers but never really used them since the alkalines barely ever run out anyway. 

I just popped them in the Maha MH-C9000 and gave them a refresh & analyze at 600mA charge and 500mA discharge. When they finished, these nearly forgotten batteries ALL listed between 760 and 780mAh. Very impressive in my opinion. Then put one in my recently acquired Tank007 E09 and it blasted out even more light than with the duracell alkaline that I had in it. Again impressive, this ultra budget light makes me reconsider if AA lights are holding back. It's rated at 120 lumens and I saw it tested at 140. Doesn't really look all that much dimmer than my D25A XP-G S2. Great tint, very throwy beam full of artefacts.

Of course, as most AAA lights, it does have a ghastly twisty UI: I has mode memory but if you leave any power level on for shorter than 3 seconds, the next time you turn it on it cycles to the next one. That often gives me power level roulette ^^
I'd prefer the mode switching to be based on how short the light was OFF, not how short it was on.

Still hoping for my dream AAA light:
- clicky with momentary, or the same implementation as the D25 but without the twisting, just LMH.
- mode memory or always starting on low (possibly selectable by some sort of programming). 
- 3 modes: 1 lumen low, 15 lumen med, 140 lumen high (or whatever power the Tank007 E09 actually blasts out).
- not much larger than the E09.
- Screw-in clip like the Eagletac D25.

In conclusion: AAA rechargeables are awesome. The MAHA MH-C9000 is awesome. The Tank007 E09 is awesome.


----------



## Anzycpethian

Are you guys kidding me? 
I *HATE *AAAs, worst battery type ever. Chinese manufacturers of battery powered gimmicks build so much junk systems around this horrible battery type so nothing lasts for longer then a few hours max and is being drained like a pipe in the rain. AAA flashlights are good for keychain lights etc., yes I agree with that but for everything else this is in my opinion the worst battery ever made. I hate them because they have hardly any capacity due to the size and there is so much junk out there simply being junk only because this battery type exists in the first place and Chinese engineers (bob bless them) without any life experience keep on producing products that require those nasty useless little things. I hate AAAs.... I use them every day because I have too (for my LED candles for example) and alkalines or Eneloops, all horribly equal. Wish they wouldn't exist. Everything that fits an AAA can be designed to fit a AA and have twice the capacity but nobody except for me has this AAA allergy! Oh woe is me!


----------



## Imon

Anzycpethian said:


> Are you guys kidding me?
> I *HATE *AAAs, worst battery type ever. Chinese manufacturers of battery powered gimmicks build so much junk systems around this horrible battery type so nothing lasts for longer then a few hours max and is being drained like a pipe in the rain. AAA flashlights are good for keychain lights etc., yes I agree with that but for everything else this is in my opinion the worst battery ever made. I hate them because they have hardly any capacity due to the size and there is so much junk out there simply being junk only because this battery type exists in the first place and Chinese engineers (bob bless them) without any life experience keep on producing products that require those nasty useless little things. I hate AAAs.... I use them every day because I have too (for my LED candles for example) and alkalines or Eneloops, all horribly equal. Wish they wouldn't exist. Everything that fits an AAA can be designed to fit a AA and have twice the capacity but nobody except for me has this AAA allergy! Oh woe is me!




Hey Anzycpethian,
Sit back, take a chill-pill, and relax... 

Personally I'm not a fan of AAA lights either but I can't say I wish it didn't exist.
Just ignore AAA lights and move on - there are plenty of non-AAA lights out there.
No point in raining on the AAA parade.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

I've been on here almost 4 years now. Originally I wasn't a big fan of AAA lights because they weren't that bright overall. I wanted bigger, brighter, more powerful for a long time. But more recently I have become quite enamored with these little AAA lights. The Preon Revo is a heck of an AAA light. The LF2XT with some mods to XP-G2, Nichia 219 and XP-E2 LEDs are amazing and fit nearly 95% of my lighting needs. Tain has also put together some custom AAA lights that are pretty sweet too.

For EDC AAA is where it's at for me.


----------



## Lite_me

I will just say that I'm glad they make AAA batteries because I have a light that takes AAA's that I just cherish. A Liteflux LF2XT. EDC'd and used numerous times a day. I think I would actually cry if I something happened to it.


----------



## kaichu dento

Nothing like a troll post to get a thread back up and running. 

Still love the AAA format and anyone can love them if they realize they're not here to cover for any of the larger lights, but rather to be a light that is always available when needed, in your pocket and not on the kitchen counter.


----------



## AlphaZen

I LOVE the Thrunite Ti2. Excellent price, form, UI, beam, tint and efficiency. Great little light!


----------



## easilyled

Anzycpethian said:


> AAA flashlights are good for keychain lights etc., yes I agree with that



I thought I'd re-quote the only relevant part of your post.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

kaichu dento said:


> Nothing like a troll post to get a thread back up and running.
> 
> Still love the AAA format and anyone can love them if they realize they're not here to cover for any of the larger lights, but rather to be a light that is always available when needed, in your pocket and not on the kitchen counter.



I didn't realize at first this was a thread brought back from the dead. But it's only 4 months old so it hasn't decomposed too much yet. 

As I was saying I never gave AAA lights much of a try. At the same time I never truly EDC'ed a light 24/7. I always had a HDS Rotary in my work bag, but not something on my person physically. That has changed with my new appreciation for the LF2XT and other AAA lights. I now carry an AAA light with me all the time and don't even know it's there. 

The Tain P0 is a great light for nightime around the house. I sold the one I had only because it was actually too small but I was amazed that the light was barely bigger than a AA battery.


----------



## mzil

As with cameras, the best flashlight in the world,_ is the one you have on you._ AAA wins for me.

Plus, since my car alarm fob and survival kit laser also use AAA, each device serves as a backup battery holder for the others.


----------



## raptechnician

I wish there was more lights that run on multiple AAA cells....with quality intergrated carriers...

I have a bunch of AAA eneloops just sitting around.... 

Single AAA cell lights only offer around 80 lumens...but I want something brighter AAA...

Preon 2 is a good option for multiple AAA I guess :thinking:. I have 4 Quarks already though... :naughty:

Actually Preon 2 probably the best option. 


First post...


----------



## chazz

I really want a Mako 1XAAA, hopefully Enrique makes another run of them so I can buy one.


----------



## MightySanta

Thank you very much for this thread! I've been looking for some really good single AAA lights. This has given me several options to further research.


----------



## Mr Floppy

Lite_me said:


> I will just say that I'm glad they make AAA batteries because I have a light that takes AAA's that I just cherish. A Liteflux LF2XT. EDC'd and used numerous times a day. I think I would actually cry if I something happened to it.



I'm just about to bring my LF2XT out safe keeping to see if the new Eneloop XX AAA cells are any good. Anyone know of any tests done of the AAA XX cells?


----------



## Harry999

I still use AA and Li-ion formats from CR123 to 18650 format but my most used lights are AAA format. From Preon 1 Clickies, Mako, Arc AAA and now Fenix HL10 they have everything I need for most of my EDC use.


----------



## dosquetzales

Olight i3s is getting a lot of use


----------



## Hiro Protagonist




----------



## easilyled

Hiro, you could have almost made 3 letter A's next to each other instead of 3 triangles to prove the point!


----------



## yoyoman

Lots and lots of AAA options out there for any budget.


----------



## kaichu dento

easilyled said:


> Hiro, you could have almost made 3 letter A's next to each other instead of 3 triangles to prove the point!


:twothumbs


----------



## Flashlight Dave

Hiro Protagonist said:


>



Hiro pardon my ignorance but please tell what are these lights? They are beautiful!


----------



## jorn

looks like different ti lf2xt's in the first 2 triangles, and 2 piccolo's and a ti p0 in the last.


----------



## Patriot

Anzycpethian said:


> Are you guys kidding me?
> I *HATE *AAAs, worst battery type ever. Chinese manufacturers of battery powered gimmicks build so much junk systems around this horrible battery type so nothing lasts for longer then a few hours max and is being drained like a pipe in the rain. AAA flashlights are good for keychain lights etc., yes I agree with that but for everything else this is in my opinion the worst battery ever made. I hate them because they have hardly any capacity due to the size and there is so much junk out there simply being junk only because this battery type exists in the first place and Chinese engineers (bob bless them) without any life experience keep on producing products that require those nasty useless little things. I hate AAAs.... I use them every day because I have too (for my LED candles for example) and alkalines or Eneloops, all horribly equal. Wish they wouldn't exist. Everything that fits an AAA can be designed to fit a AA and have twice the capacity




Totally man! Like, a stupid L92 only powers my mouse for about a year or two and my calculator for 6 or 8 years...so aggravating! A 10440 cell in my Microstream only faintly illuminates a power line tower at 150 meters, talk about a joke! Some of my silly Eneloops will barely run my single cell pocket lights for a week, hardly enough to get me from the garage to the kitchen. I'll tell ya what, I'm about to throw the whole batch of them in the landfill. Life is just way too short to have size and capacity choices in portable power.


----------



## Kabible

Patriot said:


> Totally man! Like, a stupid L92 only powers my mouse for about a year or two and my calculator for 6 or 8 years...so aggravating! A 10440 cell in my Microstream only faintly illuminates a power line tower at 150 meters, talk about a joke! Some of my silly Eneloops will barely run my single cell pocket lights for a week, hardly enough to get me from the garage to the kitchen. I'll tell ya what, I'm about to throw the whole batch of them in the landfill. Life is just way too short of have size and capacity choices in portable power.




Touche


----------



## Hiro Protagonist

Thanks Jorn! FD, the first 2 triangles are Ku ti LF2XTs from all three runs. The one on the bottom of the middle triangle is a ti LF2XT from Jeff Hanko and the one on the right side of the middle triangle is a Ku ti LF2XT body and ti button and the ti bezel is from Jeff. 

The last triangle is made up of 2 Piccolos and a P0. Easilyled, I tried to spell out "AAA" but I couldn't get them to all fit on the backdrop.


----------



## smarkum

Cool pics Hiro! Awesome lights! 

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jabe1

Where's HKJ? He could spell out "triple A" with his collection.


----------



## HKJ

jabe1 said:


> Where's HKJ? He could spell out "triple A" with his collection.



Easily:






But Hiro's LF2XT has more style.


----------



## yoyoman

Really great. But none of those lights are 2 X AAA...


----------



## HKJ

yoyoman said:


> Really great. But none of those lights are 2 X AAA...



I do not have than many 2 x AAA:


----------



## emu124

HKJ said:


> I do not have than many 2 x AAA:



Nooooo, not that many....  lovecpf


----------



## Patriot

:twothumbs:laughing: That's pretty cool there HKJ! Thanks for the fun buddy! :thumbsup:


----------



## yoyoman

HKJ, that is very cool. Thanks for making me laugh, twice.


----------



## springnr

L0D rebel natural has been in my pocket since Aug 07. Many have tried but none kicked it out, as it simply did its job.
Alas earlier this month some time between fight night at Misawa AFB and Star Trek Into Darkness 3D opening the next night it jumped out of my life. Just received an Olight i3s, impressive, but not sure about the too easy twist yet and hoping the 8hrs on med is for real. 

That dag nabbit L0D was working just like it did new when last seen, I hope someone finds it and enjoys like I did.


----------



## rayman

For my it's my Preon ReVO SS on my keychain. Got it in the first run and it's been on my keychain since then. Has some dings and scratches but as it is a Stainless Steel light their are not that obvious.

But I'm still looking for a nice AAA light with a clip and a clicky and a nice UI .

rayman


----------



## ledmitter_nli

HKJ said:


> I do love AAA lights:



Any of these with the Nichia 219? What model?

Any recommendations?


----------



## yoyoman

I have a Peak Eiger from Oveready with a Nichia 219. Dark Sucks is coming out with an AAA with the Nichia 219. Not many others in the AAA format.

I don't think any of the ones in the picture are available with the Nichia 219. However, several of these are available with the XP-G2 in neutral tint. I have the DQG AAA with the neutral emitter and is a nice tint.


----------



## easilyled

yoyoman said:


> I have a Peak Eiger from Oveready with a Nichia 219. Dark Sucks is coming out with an AAA with the Nichia 219. Not many others in the AAA format.



The Tain Piccolo and Tain P0 (both AAA lights) also use the Nichia 219.


----------



## leon2245

> Very difficult NOT to love AAA's these days.



I'd love them even more if energizer's aaa L92's were even close to the energy/$ value of their AA L91's, or at least offer them in a similar value pack to make it closer (& i am aware of rechargeables).


----------



## HKJ

ledmitter_nli said:


> Any of these with the Nichia 219? What model?



I do not believe there are.


----------



## bshanahan14rulz

I've got a Thrunite Ti w/ one of the high cri Nichia 219 form LEDs. The thread lock was a pain, but turned out pretty nice in the end.


----------



## Sky Light

You can't beat an AAA penlight. They fit the hand so well, have forward clicky switches, and for most purposes are just right. I like how you can clip them in your pocket or toss them into your pocket or bag. Because they have a long shape, they are easy to find in a crowded bag, and easy to hold and operate with one hand. I just converted all my lights from Alkaline to Enerloops. I got tired of batteries leaking and ruining all my devices.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I didn't realize at first this was a thread brought back from the dead. But it's only 4 months old so it hasn't decomposed too much yet.
> 
> As I was saying I never gave AAA lights much of a try. At the same time I never truly EDC'ed a light 24/7. I always had a HDS Rotary in my work bag, but not something on my person physically. That has changed with my new appreciation for the LF2XT and other AAA lights. I now carry an AAA light with me all the time and don't even know it's there.
> 
> The Tain P0 is a great light for nightime around the house. I sold the one I had only because it was actually too small but I was amazed that the light was barely bigger than a AA battery.



I just wanted to update this thread and say that for the past 6 months not a day has gone by that I haven't had an AAA light in my pocket with anytime while out of the house. A true EDC. There's no AA lights outs there small enough to even qualify for how nice and tiny these lights are in my pocket.


----------



## creyc

bshanahan14rulz said:


> I've got a Thrunite Ti w/ one of the high cri Nichia 219 form LEDs. The thread lock was a pain, but turned out pretty nice in the end.



I also converted one of my Thrunite Ti's to a 219. It loses a little bit of output but man, the wonderful 219 tint more than makes up for it! The Thrunite Ti has one of my favorite UI's of any light, regardless of size. The combination of well spaced levels, the extremely simple UI and wallet friendly price tag makes this the keychain light of choice.

Sometimes I wish it had a flatter tail so as to allow for tailstanding, or a little pocket clip like my Maratac AAA, but it's hard to complain about $15 light.


----------



## kaichu dento

Having received one of the Preon AO's the other day, I'm once again carrying a AAA light in my watch pocket. 

Fantastic little light and anyone with any doubts should check them out.


----------



## cowsmilk

Since I got my Piccolo, I've carried it everyday as a backup light in a small snus tin in my watch pocket. I always have that kit on my person. It's a great light and I love carrying it.


----------



## broadly as 380 to 800 nm

just received a Spark SK7 which has an "IPX8: Submersible" waterproof rating.
This is my first flashlight with a twist on/off and it made me wonder: *Are these flashlights still submersible when they're not on?*

I must say that a 3€ no-name LED flashlight I had felt a lot more robust than the SK7. But unlike the cheap AA, SK7 is tiny enough to stay in my pocket everyday.
My first post on the forum and this thread probably had some influence in my paying 10 times the price of a cheap flashlight for a tiny aluminum assembly.


----------



## mzil

I would assume it gets the official JIS IPX8 rating while "on" only. Since "off" has no specific position on a twisty and could mean any number of rotations away from "on", including "just about to come off", they don't _claim_ IPX8 when off, although it should probably be close if you are careful not untwist it too much.

[And of course twisting while submerged is probably a no-no.]


----------



## Burgess

Let me Echo what mzil posted above:

[And of course twisting while submerged is probably a no-no.]


----------



## moldyoldy

broadly as 380 to 800 nm said:


> <snip>
> My first post on the forum and this thread probably had some influence in my paying 10 times the price of a cheap flashlight for a tiny aluminum assembly.



Welcome to CPF! Stick around and you will be paying 100 times what the average citizen, or wife, would think rational for a light. and you will have several of them!  Enjoy the hobby!


----------



## Gallen1119

I currently carry a LD01 on my keychain and have carried it for about two years. Very capable light. That Spark SK7 looks nice, but have been considering a rear click like the LM21. Will likely consider a MBI Torpedo when available again. Would also like to consider venturing into 10440 cells? Any of you other AAA nuts made the transition to Li cells? Looking for recommendation on cells and charger. Already have a few 18650's, so I understand the risks/precautions.


----------



## kaichu dento

Gallen1119 said:


> I currently carry a LD01 on my keychain and have carried it for about two years. Very capable light. That Spark SK7 looks nice, but have been considering a rear click like the LM21. Will likely consider a MBI Torpedo when available again. Would also like to consider venturing into 10440 cells? Any of you other AAA nuts made the transition to Li cells? Looking for recommendation on cells and charger. Already have a few 18650's, so I understand the risks/precautions.


A friend was just showing me the SS LD01 I gave him a few years ago and saying how happy he is with it. His wife got an Arc-P from me which she still thinks is ideal.

That said, I'm planning on probably going with one of Guy's lights for my main gifting light very soon, as I think he's really nailed it with excellent UI, and perfectly spaced levels of an ideal all-around beam pattern. Tiny and light too.


----------



## chiphead

So far my Maglight XL-100 is the best I've had yet!
chiphead


----------



## Esko

broadly as 380 to 800 nm said:


> just received a Spark SK7 which has an "IPX8: Submersible" waterproof rating.
> This is my first flashlight with a twist on/off and it made me wonder: *Are these flashlights still submersible when they're not on?*



I don't think that the standard says anything about the test conditions (on or off), except for IPX8 rating. IPX8 tells that the light could be _used_ under water (time and depth specified by manufacturer), which indicates that it could also be turned on and off while submerged.

 If I needed to guess, I’d suppose that the lights are more waterproof when they are just off.


----------



## kaichu dento

The general rule of thumb would be clicky switches are okay underwater, but twisty lights should be activated before and after going under.


----------



## TMedina

I've gifted a number of AAA lights - in fact, I bought a couple of ThruNite Ti "S" models for non-flashaholics who needed a functional outdoor flashlight but I couldn't coax nor convince to look at something a little more substantial.


----------



## neonsteve

I've also gifted several Olight AAA Ti lights to family members and they love them. My favorite AAA is the Titanium Innovations light due to its 115 lumens. I had one on my keychain for a long time and the lens cracked, so I bought another.


----------



## PCC

Illumination Supply just upped the ante by offering an exclusive Preon 2 with the Nichia 219 emitter. I had bought both my son and daughter blue Preon 1s and now I'm getting a titanium Preon 2 219 for myself! I plan on getting the single cell body and using the Dark Sucks titanium Preon clip with it.


----------



## SixM

A new AAA I've been waiting for (Nichia 219)...http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...nation-L08-1xAAA-Cree-XP-G2-R5-amp-Nichia-219! Looks like my Thrunite Ti daily companion may get replaced


----------



## jorn

Cool. Looks like they have put a "aaa turbohead" on the L08. I bet it will be really throwy with a dedomed xp-e2. (Compared with other aaa lights.)

Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk


----------



## TMedina

SixM said:


> A new AAA I've been waiting for (Nichia 219)...http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...nation-L08-1xAAA-Cree-XP-G2-R5-amp-Nichia-219! Looks like my Thrunite Ti daily companion may get replaced



Well...there goes my promise not to spend any more money before next year.


----------



## PCC

The latest addition to the AAA collection: Ti Preon 1 219 with a Dark Sucks titanium clip and clicky tail.


----------



## broadly as 380 to 800 nm

thanks for all the replies regarding IPX8


----------



## moshow9

That is a nice looking light PCC! Do you have any lights with the previous Nichia 219A emitter? If so, how do they compare?

I wanted to pick one up from IS but funds are a bit tight right now so I hope they keep these stocked into next year.


----------



## Bronco

The latest Nichia 219 AAA addition. Jason's Beta-QR in electroless nickel.


----------



## pjandyho

Against your keyboard it looks big! Is it that big? Or rather long?


----------



## rje58

It's not my light but I'm going to guess about 4 inches (without the mini-biner clip).



pjandyho said:


> Against your keyboard it looks big! Is it that big? Or rather long?


----------



## Bronco

The titanium mini 'biner was my addition. By the tale of the tape, the flashlight is 2 15/16ths inches, the quick release mechanism extends out 7/8ths of an inch and the split ring and 'biner add another inch and a half. 

I pulled out the batt to give you a bit more size perspective.


----------



## pjandyho

rje58 said:


> It's not my light but I'm going to guess about 4 inches (without the mini-biner clip).


Dang! That is too long for my liking when it comes to keychain duty. I ordered two pieces and they are in transit to me, but I am not sure if I would like them.


----------



## pjandyho

Bronco said:


> The titanium mini 'biner was my addition. By the tale of the tape, the flashlight is 2 15/16ths inches, the quick release mechanism extends out 7/8ths of an inch and the split ring and 'biner add another inch and a half.
> 
> I pulled out the batt to give you a bit more size perspective.


The photo is not showing.. Well, I guess it's too soon for me to make judgements now. Let's just see how I would like it after receiving the lights.


----------



## PCC

moshow9 said:


> That is a nice looking light PCC! Do you have any lights with the previous Nichia 219A emitter? If so, how do they compare?
> 
> I wanted to pick one up from IS but funds are a bit tight right now so I hope they keep these stocked into next year.


I don't have an older 219 in a Preon so I can't compare. The only difference, from what I've been told, is that the 219B is brighter for the same input current. Comparing tints and what I can tell of CRI, this looks identical.


----------



## Bronco

pjandyho said:


> The photo is not showing.. Well, I guess it's too soon for me to make judgements now. Let's just see how I would like it after receiving the lights.



Sorry bout that, but both are showing up on my monitor. I even see the second picture in your quote box. I used Photobucket though, so who knows?


----------



## techwg

I do like to always have an AAA light on my gadget lanyard that I keep attached to my belt loop, however I am not a fan of standard AAA batteries because I like lithium and lithiums are more difficult to find out and about not to mention more costly. But I make sure I have enough laying around so that I feel secure knowing I have spares. I never will keep a light on me that uses alkaline or NiMH because I like the versatility of lithium/lithium ion with regards to usage temperature range and what not.


----------



## Lampbeam

Here in the U.S. I've noticed a proliferation of lithium AA and AAA batteries in the stores lately. Ah, but alas we don't have Jaffa cakes or good tea. ;(


----------



## Etsu

techwg said:


> I do like to always have an AAA light on my gadget lanyard that I keep attached to my belt loop, however I am not a fan of standard AAA batteries because I like lithium and lithiums are more difficult to find out and about not to mention more costly. But I make sure I have enough laying around so that I feel secure knowing I have spares. I never will keep a light on me that uses alkaline or NiMH because I like the versatility of lithium/lithium ion with regards to usage temperature range and what not.



I use rechargeable NiMH Eneloops in almost everything, and I've never understood the complaint that NiMH aren't good in the cold. I use them in my camera at temperatures below -20C, and I've never run out of juice. It's very likely that they drain faster, but they still have plenty of power in the cold. The latest generation Eneloops are supposed to be much better in the cold than the earlier ones, so I imagine they'd be suitable for all but the most extreme conditions.

Lithium primaries are too expensive for me to use as general-purpose batteries. I might keep a set in the car to use in an emergency (very long shelf life), but that's about it. To be honest, the last set I kept in the car were dead when I tried them out after a few years, so I probably won't use lithiums again. Safer to charge up the Eneloops once a year and put them back in the car. (I think the summer heat in a car kills any battery pretty fast.)


----------



## Esko

I don't like to use standard AA/AAA batteries either (except for low drain devices like remote controls and clocks). The same goes for lithium primaries. For normal everyday use and medium/high drain solutions, I like to use rechargeables (NiMH Eneloop and lithium). It feels like a waste to use standard batteries. Also, it has always been easier for me to pay a bit more for the actual product and then pay less for the use than buy cheap and then keep on paying more every time I use the product.



kaichu dento said:


> The general rule of thumb would be clicky switches are okay underwater, but twisty lights should be activated before and after going under.



That is true. I was just referring to the standard which states that the test conditions for IPX8 "shall take account of the condition that the enclosure will be continuously immersed in actual use". IMHO that should include turning the light on and off. I would not suggest anyone to unnecessarily turn ordinary flashlights on and off underwater though (at least not the twisties).


----------



## Etsu

I don't think I'd want to immerse a twisty at all. My Preon P0 claims IPX-8, but I wouldn't even trust it in the rain! I might be pleasantly surprised at its waterproofness, but the o-ring sealing the head just doesn't look water-tight to me.

Anyone ever try a 4sevens Preon P0 under water?


----------



## kaichu dento

Etsu said:


> I don't think I'd want to immerse a twisty at all. My Preon P0 claims IPX-8, but I wouldn't even trust it in the rain! I might be pleasantly surprised at its waterproofness, but the o-ring sealing the head just doesn't look water-tight to me.
> 
> Anyone ever try a 4sevens Preon P0 under water?


I've had many lights underwater for extended periods, either in my pocket or on a neck lanyard and the only one ever to have a problem was my Titan. 

If you're swimming or taking a shower I doubt that anyone will have problems resulting from normal immersion of any decent quality light.


----------



## pjandyho

kaichu dento said:


> I've had many lights underwater for extended periods, either in my pocket or on a neck lanyard and the only one ever to have a problem was my Titan.


You mean the Surefire Titan? Is that the black T1A Titan you are talking about? I have one and have yet to try it underwater. Now that you mentioned, I will be more careful.


----------



## PCC

moshow9 said:


> That is a nice looking light PCC! Do you have any lights with the previous Nichia 219A emitter? If so, how do they compare?
> 
> I wanted to pick one up from IS but funds are a bit tight right now so I hope they keep these stocked into next year.





PCC said:


> I don't have an older 219 in a Preon so I can't compare. The only difference, from what I've been told, is that the 219B is brighter for the same input current. Comparing tints and what I can tell of CRI, this looks identical.


I have to correct myself here. The tint on my 219B is a bit cooler than the tint on my 219A, it's closer to 4750-5000K. I only noticed it when pointing both lights at my light grey sweatpants today comparing the two. With almost everything else you cannot tell any difference. Colors still pop when you point the 219B at it so the CRI is there. The 219A has a tinge of pink in the color of the light that is missing from the 219B's light.


----------



## kaichu dento

pjandyho said:


> You mean the Surefire Titan? Is that the black T1A Titan you are talking about? I have one and have yet to try it underwater. Now that you mentioned, I will be more careful.


I wish they had kept completely separate names for them rather than allowing the Titan name to be associated with the T1A, but no, I meant an original titanium Titan, and I had it happen twice.

Other lights have seen absolutely zero problems with water.


----------



## pjandyho

kaichu dento said:


> I wish they had kept completely separate names for them rather than allowing the Titan name to be associated with the T1A, but no, I meant an original titanium Titan, and I had it happen twice.
> 
> Other lights have seen absolutely zero problems with water.


Now I am wondering if the black T1A Titan would resist water ingress. Better be safe than sorry. Do you think the leak could have happened on the joint of the rotary head?


----------



## kaichu dento

pjandyho said:


> Now I am wondering if the black T1A Titan would resist water ingress. Better be safe than sorry. Do you think the leak could have happened on the joint of the rotary head?


It's been so long ago but I fully suspect that I was operating the light in the hot springs, which with it essentially being a twisty, is a no go.

Probably okay to trust getting wet, but not immersed for any length of time.


----------



## pjandyho

kaichu dento said:


> It's been so long ago but I fully suspect that I was operating the light in the hot springs, which with it essentially being a twisty, is a no go.
> 
> Probably okay to trust getting wet, but not immersed for any length of time.


The hot spring and twisty UI might have been the reason for the ingress. Thanks for highlighting your experience.


----------



## Replicant

PCC said:


> The latest addition to the AAA collection: Ti Preon 1 219 with a Dark Sucks titanium clip and clicky tail.



How do you like the clicky tail cap on the P1? That's not something I thought to do. I guess it's one less piece to buy from IS if you want to convert the P2 to the P1.


----------



## PCC

I don't typically like reverse-clickies, but, seeing as I don't have a choice on the matter, it'll do. The problem with this light is that it's titanium threads against titanium threads. It's like fingernails on a chalkboard screwing this thing down if I were to use it as a twisty (okay, not quite that bad, but, still...). The clicky is the way to go as far as I'm concerned. I guess I could have gone with the black aluminum version, but, I wanted a titanium light.


----------



## jorn

I think twistys are fine under water. As long as you maintain the o-ring now and then, and twist slowly. My dive lights are twistys. I have taken both the lumintop worm and maratac cu freediving with no problems (exept the worm was slippery and slipped out of my hand once). 
Most of the aaa lights i have played with handles water fine. Both clickys and twistys. My lf2xt have survived the washing machine.. 3 times... Have dunked the preon 1, preon2, p0, tains ti p0 with no problems. 
O-rings can handle a lot of pressure. Im impressed over the o-ring in my old pre charged pneumatic air pistols. I can still pump them one day, and shoot the next. One well lubed old o-ring holding all that pressure. 

Hope the torpedo arrives soon


----------



## kaichu dento

jorn said:


> I think twistys are fine under water. As long as you maintain the o-ring now and then, and twist slowly. My dive lights are twistys. I have taken both the lumintop worm and maratac cu freediving with no problems (exept the worm was slippery and slipped out of my hand once).
> Most of the aaa lights i have played with handles water fine. Both clickys and twistys. My lf2xt have survived the washing machine.. 3 times... Have dunked the preon 1, preon2, p0, tains ti p0 with no problems.
> O-rings can handle a lot of pressure. Im impressed over the o-ring in my old pre charged pneumatic air pistols. I can still pump them one day, and shoot the next. One well lubed old o-ring holding all that pressure.
> 
> Hope the torpedo arrives soon


I know twisties are fine underwater! 

Good tips about twisting slowly, and especially keeping up on the o-rings. 

I'd stuck with the thinking about not turning twisties on and off under water when David said not to do it with the Mini's a couple years ago, and I think it's still probably the safest approach, although your points make perfect sense.


----------



## mzil

My understanding is the JIS IPX water ratings system is basically on the "honor system". If one makes a new flashlight one can test it themselves and there is no legal requirement to send it to an independent JIS(C) testing facility to be "certified". Susceptibility to water while twisting would also therefore be a judgment call on the specific manufacturer.

I've tried to find links to JIS to verify this but no luck so far. Anyone have any links to the horse's mouth?

All can find, and I doesn't even list IPX:
http://www.jisc.go.jp/eng/


----------



## jorn

It's called a ip code. Lots of pepole calls it "IPX". The first number in the ip code is for particals like dust etc. When a flashlight says it's IPX8. The x just means that the product is not tested against particles, fingers etc. The second number (usually 8 on flashlight) is for waterproofness.

You can find the code list here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code

The most impotrant thing is to, service the light now and then. A bone dry or damaged o-ring wont keep the water out no matter what the box says


----------



## pjandyho

Bronco said:


> The latest Nichia 219 AAA addition. Jason's Beta-QR in electroless nickel.





pjandyho said:


> Dang! That is too long for my liking when it comes to keychain duty. I ordered two pieces and they are in transit to me, but I am not sure if I would like them.


Hi bronco,

I received both my Beta QR today. Yes they are indeed long but I love this light! Not sure if it would get keychain duty yet since I have the Mako on my keychain but I am going to try and find an opportunity to EDC it. Nice light at a very reasonable price!


----------



## Bronco

pjandyho said:


> Hi bronco,
> 
> I received both my Beta QR today. Yes they are indeed long but I love this light! Not sure if it would get keychain duty yet since I have the Mako on my keychain but I am going to try and find an opportunity to EDC it. Nice light at a very reasonable price!



Yeah, I find the build quality on mine to be very good. A lot of little details that were all extremely well executed. I wish those of us who couldn't justify either the weight or the cost of the all copper model had been given the chance to select the driver with moonlight mode, but hey, we knew the score going in. 

As for EDC'ing the light, I've found it very convenient and comfortable to carry it inside the waistband with the titanium carabiner clipped to the very top of the waistband. The smooth wire design of the gate is easy on clothing but the excellent spring tension results in very positive retention. You can easily forget it's there and the light is well protected from dings and scratches at the same time.


----------



## mzil

^Jorn, thanks for that last post of yours, but can you confirm that the rating is done by the manufacturer themselves and is not sent out anywhere for third party certification?


----------



## jorn

mzil said:


> ^Jorn, thanks for that last post of yours, but can you confirm that the rating is done by the manufacturer themselves and is not sent out anywhere for third party certification?


I dont know. 
I think some few sends it in, and some does the testing theirself, or have no test at all. I think most just slap a ipx8 on the specs list with no tests at all. I have drowned some ipx8 lights. Thats why i really dont care that mutch about the ip ratings on flashlights. There is only one way to really make sure if your light is waterproof, and that is to test it yourself. Every little flashlight is uniqe. 
The ip rating just says that this consept should be able to keep water out. They dont test every single light sold. Take the zebralight as a good example. It says ipx8, but lots and lots of them wont handle water because it's a hit or miss thing when they glue the lense. If they make it right, it's waterproof. If they miss with the glue, it's not. 2 of my 3 zebralights dident like water at all, but the design is rated ipx8 and should be able to hold water out (in theori).


----------



## yoyoman

It is very difficult not to love AAAs these days and my set has grown.


----------



## yoyoman

Edit: Double post.


----------



## OCD

Nice collection, yoyoman. What's your favorite Clicky?


----------



## yoyoman

You mean set... In general, the AAA size is not optimal for clickies and most of them are reverse clickies. I like the new DQG and Lumentop Tool. I don't have the new version of the Pelican 1910 (more output and 2 levels). I like the Peak Turbo from Oveready without QTC and the momentary switch. My favorite and EDC is the Tain Ottavino AAA twisty - tighten to off, loosen to low and keep turning to High. Very easy to use with one hand and easy on the eyes.


----------



## ven

Very very nice mr yoyo i need more AAA lights for sure:twothumbs


----------



## yoyoman

I like AAA lights because of their small size. Some of them, like the Atom AO and DQG are really tiny. But all lights are a compromise and AAA lights have at least 2 big compromises. Because of the small size, most of them are twisties (which I don't mind). The other compromise has to be runtime. This hasn't bothered me - the ones that run on 10440 li-ions are very bright and I can top off the charge when necessary. The ones that run on Eneloops or Energizer lithium primaries have enough runtime for their normal use. But now that you, ven, have turned me onto a certain AA light that has long runtime on L and M, I'm beginning to wonder. I would like to do a runtime test, but I'm not patient enough. I guess I could look at selfbuilt's runtime tests, but I'm lazy, too. Now that the family portrait is over, the lights have been dispersed around the house so they get used.


----------



## ven

I would guess on similar output levels that the average AA is for example 2000mah(if a loop,if a Duracell alki then around 1500mah) and AAA around 900 . So its easy to see double run time,maybe a little more with less strain on the larger AA cell over the smaller AAA . But depending on light materials if tested on a higher setting would also effect along with the lights driver efficiency too.

Few factors i guess,but would say conservatively around double runtime should be expected if the lights are set on similar lumen levels.
Certainly for ease of carrying in comfort, the AAA form factor wins along with key chain use imo.............just not run times.
Regards ven:thumbsup:


----------



## NutSAK

ven said:


> Few factors i guess,but would say conservatively around double runtime should be expected if the lights are set on similar lumen levels.



I'd say that is quite conservative. My testing shows 2100mAh and 800mAh as typical for AA Eneloop vs. AAA, and the runtime benefit of typical 14500 over 10440 is even greater. I've found it difficult to find good quality 10440 Li-Ions. 

I find it hard to justify AAA as my primary carry, though I do carry AAA as a backup at times. When I consider small form-factor AA lights such as a Quark Mini, it is even more difficult.


----------



## yoyoman

The difference in runtime is a compromise. But it is one that I can live with because of the small size and output that modern AAA lights offer. My pocket EDC is an AAA light because it is small, bright enough on an Envelop and I can change/recharge the cell when needed. My copper Maratac AAA, modded by Vinh and running on a 10440 li-ion, is a flashaholic dream. Very bright, nice tint and the whole light warms up. The Olight i3S and Titanium Innovation alum AAA are also very bright on 10440 li-ions. I rarely need a light with a long runtime and I have lights to satisfy that purpose when needed. Those lights also make compromises (e.g. Size, lack of blinding output, etc.). All lights are a compromise and I'm glad because I can keep finding lights that serve a purpose and keep me in tune.


----------



## NutSAK

I agree with you, and we all have different needs. I like using my #4 power Eiger as a headlamp when attached to the brim of a ballcap. It has plenty of power for most usage, and will run 5-6 hours on an Eneloop.

There are some great options in AAA, and many more than there used to be. But, I'm not particularly loving AAA's these days any more than in days past. I still love AA, 14500 and 18650, and there are many great EDC-size options there also. Due to the increased capacity, they fit my particular needs better for the most part.


----------



## mzil

During a recent blackout I discovered an outstanding feature only my AAA lights could accomplish: _hands-free, headlamp like use simply by placing it over my ear, positioned much like the way some people carry a pencil!_ Simultaneously wearing it on a neck chain/rope (with a breakaway clasp for safety) made it markedly better both because the added tail weight allowed the slight downward angling of the light to be better balanced, plus if it does fall out the neck chain catches the fall so it doesn't smash against the ground. Try it, you'll like it; just don't forget about it in case you meet royalty:
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01518/william_lloyd_1518410c.jpg


----------



## Lord Flashlight

Might get a bit warm behind the ear though.


----------



## mzil

^Yes, flashlights that get warm to the touch will warm whatever part of the human body they are held with. However having actually used this method I can attest that the flashlight I was using, a 4Sevens Revo, caused no pain or discomfort even in extended, half-hour or so use. People hot rodding AAA designs with 3.7 to 4V 10440s on high mode might have more of an issue with this though.


----------



## NutSAK

mzil said:


> People hot rodding AAA designs with 3.7 to 4V 10440s on high mode might have more of an issue with this though.



This is one reason why I like the lower-power Eigers (#4). You get about twice the output with Li-Ion, but not heat issues whatsoever. Well, that and I don't particularly like QTC in battery-crusher designs.


----------



## regulator

NutSAK said:


> This is one reason why I like the lower-power Eigers (#4). You get about twice the output with Li-Ion, but not heat issues whatsoever. Well, that and I don't particularly like QTC in battery-crusher designs.



I'm with you on #4 power level for the AAA peak. This is the perfect level for this battery for all around use. I had the QTC lights and really dislike the inconsistent operation. I have bought many Peak lights but will avoid any QTC ones.


----------



## Mr Floppy

mzil said:


> During a recent blackout I discovered an outstanding feature only my AAA lights could accomplish: _hands-free, headlamp like use simply by placing it over my ear, positioned much like the way some people carry a pencil!_



Big ears!

personally I had to make a holder for it to stay on.


----------



## NutSAK

Mr Floppy said:


> Big ears!
> 
> personally I had to make a holder for it to stay on.



:twothumbs EXCELLENT idea!


----------



## mzil

I don't have especially big ears and without a doubt my Revo is fatter than a pencil, so the top of my ear is deflected away from my head, but I'm usually not too concerned with what I look like when I'm walking around in my dark apartment during a blackout or working behind my stereo system's rack. The neck chain attachment weighing down the back is key to making it balance more nicely since you often want the front aiming downward, not straight ahead.

Sure, dedicated mechanisms which strap the light to one's head or affix it to an earlobe are better, longterm, but I use this ear trick method mostly for quick, impromptu situations. I also like it better than holding the light in one's mouth since it allows you to speak normally.


----------



## parnass

I carry a multitool or pliers, a knife, and a few other tools daily, so light weight and low profile are important qualities for my EDC light(s). I've always carried an a 1AAA light as an emergency backup.

I have been waiting for 1AAA and 2AAA lights with clicky switches to be bright enough with longer runtimes so I can EDC them instead of my CR123A and AA lights. _That time has arrived._ The new dual mode Pelican 1910 and 1920 lights have been working well in the EDC role.

More powerful lights serve when needed for outdoor night time tasks.


----------



## Lite_me

parnass said:


> I carry a multitool or pliers, a knife, and a few other tools daily, so light weight and low profile are important qualities for my EDC light(s). I've always carried an a 1AAA light as an emergency backup.
> *
> I have been waiting for 1AAA and 2AAA lights with clicky switches to be bright enough with longer runtimes so I can EDC them instead of my CR123A and AA lights. That time has arrived. The new dual mode Pelican 1910 and 1920 lights have been working well in the EDC role.*
> 
> More powerful lights serve when needed for outdoor night time tasks.


^.. I don't know if it's mentioned anywhere else in this thread but the Eagtac D25A, a 1AA/14500 light is not much bigger than a lot of AAA lights. I just got a Pelican 1910 and it's quite a bit longer than the D25A and about the same diameter. At least the head on the Pelican is. The D25A to me is an easier carry. And when you factor in the modes, much longer runtimes and brightness, the D25A is a winner. Especially between these two. What it does lack though in comparison is momentary on. If that's important to someone.


----------



## shelm

Mr Floppy said:


>



i want!!


----------



## NutSAK

I have AA lights that are at least as small as a Pelican 1910...


----------



## parnass

Lite_me said:


> ^..Eagtac D25A, a 1AA/14500 light ... ... What it does lack though in comparison is momentary on. If that's important to someone.



Thanks for the info. I need (want) a forward clicky with momentary capability. I most often use short bursts of light and that type of switch works best in my application.


----------



## fyrstormer

I came up with a similar way to hold my ThruNite Ti while I was working:


----------



## Mr Floppy

NutSAK said:


> :twothumbs EXCELLENT idea!



Just a cheap headset from a dollar shop, some velcro, cut up a plastic pen and some epoxy. 





Still not right as the weight of the thing starts to dislodge it when you run or jump so the next version will be 3D printed to fit the ear better ... somehow


----------



## bill_light

AAA flashlight is the most important flashlight for me too !


----------



## PCC

fyrstormer said:


> I came up with a similar way to hold my ThruNite Ti while I was working:


N95 mask, nice!


----------



## fyrstormer

Yeah, I started using them when I found out that aluminum is a neurotoxin. It might not help, but it can't hurt.


----------



## Etsu

fyrstormer said:


> Yeah, I started using them when I found out that aluminum is a neurotoxin. It might not help, but it can't hurt.



Unless you work in an environment where there's lots of dust containing aluminum, I wouldn't be concerned. Aluminum is in everything, since it's one of the most common elements in the Earth's crust. So there's no avoiding it, nor is it toxic unless you eat/drink/breath a lot of it.

Of course, maybe you do work in dusty conditions, so in that case the mask is a good idea.


----------



## Jacklight

I have had an ITP a3 on my necklace for over 1 1/2 years, 24 - 7, shower and bed, and it has held up great. Use it quite often, but not for long and a lot on low so the battery can last 3 months easy.. great light. Going to upgrade someday, is a Peak eiger lug as small? Does the Peak eiger pocket have any attachment point. The pictures on their website are confusing. Does the QTC pill hold up nowadays? Thanks for any input.


----------



## Pila

I carried MagLite Solitare AAA for many years (mostly for peeking into computers, connectors and such; its max was walking along the path - carefully and slowly), have had no other option. Hated it: shines like a small lighter and works even worse with rechargable batteries. But, it was in my pocket always. In 2009. I bought Fenix LD01 to replace it. Fenix LD01 still works perfectly and was always with me, free in the pocket and I did not know it was there until I needed it. But, I do not like twisty. 

For years, I was looking if something might replace and improve it in my pocket. Ideally, it would be a small AA Clicky. Fenix LD15, E10, E11 - did not like. Bought Nitecore Sens AA - very problematic. Just bought Fenix E12 - excellent. But: when left in a pocket free, it lies horizontally across and over my leg. Quite uncomfortably when seated and I am constantly very aware of it. I made a little holster so all my pocket goodies would stand vertically (5 small compartments). In that configuration, E12 AA seems absolutely acceptable even when seated (I am currently testing it for less than a week).

Few days ago I bought Fenix LD02. AAA Clicky, 100 lumens - 505 lux turbo lights at 30+ meters easily and well, lowest speed is 8 Lumens with very gentle 20 Lux. Without my newly made holster, I would have to say this is an excellent EDC lamp. Actually, it lasts longer and throws more and better light around me than the huge MagLite 2c Incan which I was using for years to shine at any distance longer than few meters away (e.g. searching for our cats in the yard, 5 - 25 m away).

In all cases - eneloops, so run time is free and eternal in both AA and AAA size for me. 

But: I am well organized. Now I use lamps heavily, probably 50+ times daily in house and outside (I live in a tourism oriented village on an island). So, whenever I go out, I tend to bring a stronger AA lamp, the Fenix LD10 from 2009. with me, mostly in Fenix AB02 holster. Net result: My EDC AAA is not my most often used light, but it is absolutely always with me! That makes it the most important. If anything should happened, my EDC AAA is with me for sure!


----------



## leon2245

So that's about it in the way of forward aaa clickies, the pelican 1910, streamlight microstream? Aside from 2x AAA streamlight & eagletac penlights, but curious to know if there are other of those too with forward clicky.




yoyoman said:


> OCD said:
> 
> 
> 
> *Nice collection*, yoyoman. What's your favorite Clicky?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *You mean set..*. In general, the AAA size is not optimal for clickies and most of them are reverse clickies. I like the new DQG and Lumentop Tool. I don't have the new version of the Pelican 1910 (more output and 2 levels). I like the Peak Turbo from Oveready without QTC and the momentary switch. My favorite and EDC is the Tain Ottavino AAA twisty - tighten to off, loosen to low and keep turning to High. Very easy to use with one hand and easy on the eyes.
Click to expand...


hahaha yeah SET. Every AAA flashlight has as specific an individual application as each in a row of wrenches!


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

Ya know - a few months back I was looking to lighten the load of my workbag and trying to find a replacement for my HDS Clicky as it adds a good chunk of weight to my bag. I saw a 4 Sevens sale and picked up 2xAAA Preon Penlight. I have to say that I was quite impressed when I got it. 3 very usable levels. The high is actually quite bright - I don't see a need for it often as medium would do most work tasks I need it to - but great that it is there in case needed. I carry it around with the other pens in my bag and it works great.

I liked the light so much I grabbed a few more while the sale was on as they will make great gifting items.


----------



## kaichu dento

Pila said:


> Few days ago I bought Fenix LD02. AAA Clicky, 100 lumens - 505 lux turbo lights at 30+ meters easily and well, lowest speed is 8 Lumens with very gentle 20 Lux. Without my newly made holster, I would have to say this is an excellent EDC lamp. Actually, it lasts longer and throws more and better light around me than the huge MagLite 2c Incan which I was using for years to shine at any distance longer than few meters away (e.g. searching for our cats in the yard, 5 - 25 m away).





leon2245 said:


> So that's about it in the way of forward aaa clickies, the pelican 1910, streamlight microstream?


You missed the post just above your own, probably because the information you were after was buried in the middle of a lot of other information.

At any rate, you can add the LD02 to your short list of clicky activated AAA lights.


----------



## gnu

kaichu dento said:


> Having received one of the Preon AO's the other day, I'm once again carrying a AAA light in my watch pocket.
> 
> Fantastic little light and anyone with any doubts should check them out.



I am late to the AAA game, my EDC is a Quark123. 
I know this is an old post but I'm interested in either the SS Atom A0 or I found a SS Preon P0 CREE XP-E online for sale. Assuming the Atom is just the newer version with a slightly better runtime?


----------



## leon2245

leon2245 said:


> So that's about it in the way of *forward aaa clickies*, the pelican 1910, streamlight microstream? Aside from 2x AAA streamlight & eagletac penlights, but curious to know if there are other of those too with forward clicky.





kaichu dento said:


> You missed the post just above your own, probably because the information you were after was buried in the middle of a lot of other information.
> 
> At any rate, you can add the LD02 to your short list of clicky activated AAA lights.




Whoa the ld02 has a forward clicky?! I thought I'd read otherwise in a couple early reviews.


----------



## kaichu dento

gnu said:


> I know this is an old post but I'm interested in either the SS Atom A0 or I found a SS Preon P0 CREE XP-E online for sale. Assuming the Atom is just the newer version with a slightly better runtime?


I haven't been paying much attention across the board in a while but just stick around and someone can answer that for you.


leon2245 said:


> Whoa the ld02 has a forward clicky?! I thought I'd read otherwise in a couple early reviews.


I'm planning on getting a couple of the newer AAA lights, this included and figure that even if I don't feel like keeping it I can always gift it away.


----------



## markr6

I didn't have any AAA lights, so I got the new Fenix E05.

- Slightly too large for my keychain
- Too small to operate as easily one-handed like a 1xAA
- Easier to lose
- Size not enough advantage compared to the output/runtime of a slightly larger 1xAA


I knew most of this already, but for $17 I wanted to try it out. The output is impressive for such a small light.


----------



## recklesstryg

I have had CR123 based lights (Surefire P60, Fenix P20-P22) and AA based lights (Maglite LED). I tried some penlights in the past (streamlight).

But I just got a 4Sevens Preon 2 and I am in love. It is smooth, small, fits perfectly into my back pocket and Bright. I thought that I would not like the way that the clicker started at low power and you have to press repeatedly to get a brighter beam but i have found that the low setting works for most occasions. 
I did modify the tail cap. I didn't like the metal button that stood to proud, so I took it out. Then I couldn't easily press the button so I milled out the shroud. it has been a little banged up since I got it from being in my back pocket.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

markr6 said:


> The output is impressive for such a small light.



That's the great thing about pretty much all the current line-up of AAA lights. It's not hard to get around 100 reliable lumens from an AAA with the current LEDs available. An amazing feat really since the just 5 years ago getting 100 lumens off a CR123 light was impressive.

My 2xAAA Preon Penlight can blast 200+ lumens. Pretty impressive for it's size. 

I constantly wish these lights were around 30 years ago when I was a kid trying to read comic books under the covers at night using an AA MagLight.


----------



## mzil

^That reminds me. If anyone is looking for a good deal on a AAA LED light, I'd like to point out one that often gets overlooked by forums such as ours, probably due to a stigma attached to some of the companies' earlier incandescent designs: the Maglite *LED *Solitaire. They still make the _non_-LED version, which is comparatively terrible, so don't accidentally get that.

For not much money, nearly half the price of all the others, you get an impressive design and it even sports some features which are quite rare on most other AAA LED lights, including a variable zoom feature [although it isn't artifact free. It has rings.]

I'm not claiming it's just as good as my numerous Olight, iTP, Maratac, 4Sevens, etc. designs which I collect, but considering its low price and acceptable performance in day to day use, I would say it is one of the better _values_ out there.


----------



## chillinn

mzil said:


> They still make the _non_-LED version, which is comparatively terrible, so don't accidentally get that.



What do you recommend, then, in the single AAA category of incandescent flashlights? I don't know of any other. Because the only reason I was considering it is for the actual photons (incandescent light reveals truer, more accurate color), and not for its performance compared to LED.


----------



## mzil

I haven't bought a _non_-LED AAA light for over a decade. In my use LEDs have no major shortcomings and I don't think you can _generically_ say incandescent lights, especially single AAA versions, have "truer, more accurate color". There are good ones and bad ones of both categories. That's my 2 cents.


----------



## colight

looks very beautiful,I have a E05,but not the SS,the old version ,still works well.


----------



## jabe1

I believe that Lumensfactory makes an incandescent drop-in for a single cell light. You can get a very small P60 host from Oveready, and a slightly larger one either Surefire or Solarforce. Personally too big for a keychain, but that is subjective.

If you haven't tried a light with the Nichia 219A, I do recommend it. The CRI of 92, with an unobtrusive color temperature make for very good light quality.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

chillin - I don't think you posted in the wrong place. I think you just got legitimate viewpoints on the Solitaire AAA light. We've probably all owned one of them at some time or another. For me that was about 10-20 years ago and I don't miss it. It was cool in it's time since it was the only thing out there, but now it's so overpowered in brightness by 2032 based 5mm fauxtons that it just doesn't have a practical use. Even with a fresh AAA battery it starts or ridiculously dim and then gets dimmer from there.

If it floats your boat that's totally cool and enjoy it. I'd rather have a HiCRI XP-G2 which is around 2700K and will give you much more brightness and runtime off an AAA cell.


----------



## chillinn

jabe1 said:


> I believe that Lumensfactory makes an incandescent drop-in for a single cell light. You can get a very small P60 host from Oveready, and a slightly larger one either Surefire or Solarforce. Personally too big for a keychain, but that is subjective.
> 
> If you haven't tried a light with the Nichia 219A, I do recommend it. The CRI of 92, with an unobtrusive color temperature make for very good light quality.





thanks jabe1
I do have a Nichia, but its a NSPU510CS (375nm UV). As for your first paragraph... idk what you just posted LOL. You flashlight guys have your own language LOL! What is a P60? The little number-letter combinations (assuming they're model numbers) I read in threads here make me curious, and I google (because some threads are ancient), but I can never be sure if I'm looking at what was mentioned. 

I've posted over on the incan side of the forums,
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...escent-mini-flashlights&p=4479438#post4479438

so as to not hijack this thread any more than I have. Mea culpa.


----------



## kaichu dento

chillinn said:


> What do you recommend, then, in the single AAA category of incandescent flashlights? I don't know of any other. Because the only reason I was considering it is for the actual photons (incandescent light reveals truer, more accurate color), and not for its performance compared to LED.


Absolutely not.

For a AAA incan I would suggest building one, but not using the historically pathetic example of the Solitaire for your template.

Okay, enough of the OT, but poor information like this should not be left to stand unanswered.

Thinking about AAA, and also having been playing with my HDS Clicky today, I'd sure love to have a AAA version of it as well! Of course Henry doesn't want to do a AA, so the AAA Clicky is even more of a farfetched pipe-dream!


----------



## mzil

I found my *LED* Solitaire and was playing around with it. I was shocked to discover it actually has a better throw, when focused tightly, than my Preon P1! Not bad for being close to a _third_ of the price.

Another cool feature it has, I forgot to mention in my other post, is "candle mode". You screw the head off and get an illuminated, bare LED which shines in all directions, like a candle or a glowing point-source orb, and with the flat bottom the light can tail stand to illuminate the whole room, ~ 360 degrees horizontally and vertically, much more evenly than any other 1xAAA LED light I own (or know of).

Am I the only one here who owns one of these? Peeps, they are so cheap, online, it's worth getting it just to see what I'm talking about.  [To people who think some precise color temperature value and completely artifact free illumination fields are what matter most in keychain lights: _don't bother_. This light isn't for you.]


----------



## WalkIntoTheLight

mzil said:


> I found my *LED* Solitaire and was playing around with it. I was shocked to discover it actually has a better throw, when focused tightly, than my Preon P1! Not bad for being close to a _third_ of the price.
> 
> Another cool feature it has, I forgot to mention in my other post, is "candle mode". You screw the head off and get an illuminated, bare LED which shines in all directions, like a candle or a glowing point-source orb, and with the flat bottom the light can tail stand to illuminate the whole room, ~ 360 degrees horizontally and vertically, much more evenly than any other 1xAAA LED light I own (or know of).
> 
> Am I the only one here who owns one of these? Peeps, they are so cheap, online, it's worth getting it just to see what I'm talking about.  [To people who think some precise color temperature value and completely artifact free illumination fields are what matter most in keychain lights: _don't bother_.]



I kind of like Maglite's flexibility. Zooming the beam can give you decent throw even with their sub-par lumens, but not much of a useful beam at max zoom. Candle mode is unique, though a ceiling-bounce accomplishes the same thing without any glare in your eyes. Unfortunately, the tail-cap design doesn't allow you to tail-stand without being in candle mode.

Though if I look at the water protection of the AAA *LED *Solitaire, it's something like IPX4. Which means if you sneeze on it, it's full of gunk. Around here, something like a Atom A0 is only about $5 more, and gives you IPX8 water-proof, as well as a moonlight mode.

IMO, the *LED* Solitaire isn't a good deal. Better deal than the *[censored]* version, but still not very good compared to other options via mail-order.


----------



## mzil

^How long have you owned your LED Solitaire, WalkIntoTheLight?


----------



## Bullzeyebill

I removed 12 posts relating to color temperature of AAA's. This is off topic. Please continue the discussion relating to the title of the thread, and the first post.

Bill


----------



## feifei

Like 18650 battery flashlght,rechargeable


----------



## easilyled

feifei said:


> Like 18650 battery flashlght,rechargeable


----------



## yoyoman

I replied to a thread asking for key fob lights last night. Gathered my AAA lights, or at least most of them, and was impressed with the variety and quality of these little lights. Some are quite tiny - DQG, Atom AO. Some have impressive output on li-ions - Peak Eigers from Oveready, Olight i3S, Titanium Innovations AAA. Some have quite a bit of throw for such little lights - Tank007 E03, Peak Eiger from Oveready with the mini turbo head. Some are mules and some are quite floody - Dereelight DA3. Many have nice tints with either Nichia 219 or XP-G2 N emitters - Prometheus QR, Tain Ottavino AAA twisty. Some have long runtimes - McGizmo Sapphire GS, Lumintop Worm/Tool. Some are flashaholic dreams - Maratac copper AAA modded by Vinh - the whole light gets warm on High and has impressive output and a nice tint. And mainstream manufacturers are coming out with new lights using the latest emitters (as their stock of older emitters gets updated). I have a Fenix E05 SS on the way. The Tain Ottavino is in my pocket everyday - beautiful Ti knurling, a trit, great UI, nice tint and useful beam/levels. I have to agree with the title of this thread - it is very difficult not to love AAAs these days!


----------



## easilyled

^ Thanks for restoring some relevance to this thread!

You have a vast collection of smaller lights. Mine is much smaller as I like lights of all sizes, but the AAAs are very useful for keychain or unobstrusive pocket carry. Of the AAA's, I have Tain's Piccolos, Ottavinos, and BeCu P0s. I have the new Fenix E05 SS which I also really like and used to have the Fenix L0D SS version which was great. I like the way all these lights have useful levels, a long runtime for their size and the fact that they run on one of the commonest available batteries. So yes, I also agree with the thread title.

BTW, I am unfamiliar with XP-G2 N emitters. Could you elaborate on them for me please and let me know which of your AAA lights they are in?


----------



## yoyoman

Getting back on topic was one reason for my post. I have a large set of AAA lights - I like the small size and they are all over the place for ease of access.

My Tain Ottavino AAA is an XP-G2 Neutral White. My Maratac copper AAA modded by Vinh has an XP-G2, but a warmer tint. I have a Lumintop copper Worm modded by that guy from Germany (sorry I forget his name) that is a very, very warm tint. I have several Malkoff dropins with the XP-G2 N (M61 from Oveready and M361 from Malkoff). The XP-G2 cool white is a nice, clean white (no angry blue or green or purple). The XP-G2 N is a little warmer. Not as rosey as a Nichia 119V from McGizmo, but close.

I also like lights of different sizes, especially sub-AAA lights (10180, 10250), but I also like lights that run on CR123, AA and 18650 cells. I have a weakness for lights from McGizmo, Tain and Oveready. But I have a real problem with AAA lights. I find the compromise between size vs. output/runtime is quite acceptable. Throw in an Energizer lithium primary or LSD Eneloop and they are always ready to be used and will have reasonable runtime. Throw in a 10440 li-ion and light up the night with something really small.


----------



## easilyled

I see, so by XP-G2 N, I presume you meant those of neutral tint? I also have those in all my Tain Ottavinos and they are my preferred choice over cool-white or warm. Yes, my old Fenix L0D SS could take 10440s in it and would be spectacularly bright although I wouldn't keep it on high for long. How I wish I hadn't given that away!


----------



## yoyoman

Yes, I mean neutral tint and I really like them. I have a Nichia 219 B and it is also nice. I like the neutral tints, but I'm more attracted to wonderful beams. The McGizmo Haiku 3s XML is still my favorite beam. It isn't easy getting a great beam on an AAA light because they are small. Some with optics, like the DQG AAA, are pretty good and the Dereelight DA3 has a very nice floody beam. The Olight i3s, Titanium Innovations AAA and Maratac AAA lights are OK. They really shine on a 10440. And the Peak Eigers from Oveready, both the mule and the mini Turbo head are great - nice tint (Nichia 219A on the mule and XP-G2 neutral on the mini head) and great beams. They are built like tanks, I love the delrin caps that turn extra bodies in cell holders, but they are a bit long and they don't have a good lanyard attachment. The clip from the Streamlight MicroStream, which you can buy as a spare part, is a perfect fit.


----------



## Fat Boy

+1 on the Tain aaa Ottavino. It's the bomb and my favorite EDC. I have a new one coming and can't wait. For me the AAA size is the perfect size for edc.


----------



## kaichu dento

easilyled said:


> I have Tain's Piccolos, Ottavinos, and BeCu P0s.


For those of us who've never had one of his lights could you tell us a bit about them? I'd love to get in on a 10280 Ottavino next time he does a run.


----------



## kahuna2793

What are some of the top AAA lights out now?


----------



## easilyled

kaichu dento said:


> For those of us who've never had one of his lights could you tell us a bit about them? I'd love to get in on a 10280 Ottavino next time he does a run.



Tain's lights are up there with the very best in terms of machining excellence. The Piccolos and Ottavinos have the trademark diamond knurling, each tiny diamond with ultra-fine horizontal scores in it. This is probably the most perfect knurling of Titanium lights that I've seen. The threads are again exemplary with tight tolerances and yet permitting buttery-smooth twisting at the same time.

The UI for both the Piccolos and Ottavinos are progressive 2-stage twisties, tighten for off, loosen for low and loosen further for high. The Piccolos use Nichia 219s (A) with optics to produce a beam with a relatively large hotspot of high CRI. (10 lumens low, 60 lumens high) The Ottavinos use XP-G2s (cool-white or neutral) with reflectors to produce a beam with tighter focus than the Piccolos (10 lumens low, 85 lumens high)

Although all lights are pretty compact and small for AAA size, the Ottavinos are slightly more compact than the Piccolos and of course the 10280 Ottavino is still much smaller being suitable for neckchain use (a neckchain is provided with it) as well as keyfob duties. Due to the 10280 li-ion firing up this little beast, it produces 145 lumens on high which is quite spectacular.

Anyway I can only say good things about Tain's lights.


----------



## kaichu dento

Thanks for the first-hand input!

I guess I would have been a bit more up on things but I've been taking lots of time off the last couple years, but always find myself drawn back, just like a flashaholic to a light. :tinfoil:


----------



## rickyro

easilyled said:


> Tain's lights are up there with the very best in terms of machining excellence. The Piccolos and Ottavinos have the trademark diamond knurling, each tiny diamond with ultra-fine horizontal scores in it. This is probably the most perfect knurling of Titanium lights that I've seen. The threads are again exemplary with tight tolerances and yet permitting buttery-smooth twisting at the same time.
> 
> The UI for both the Piccolos and Ottavinos are progressive 2-stage twisties, tighten for off, loosen for low and loosen further for high. The Piccolos use Nichia 219s (A) with optics to produce a beam with a relatively large hotspot of high CRI. (10 lumens low, 60 lumens high) The Ottavinos use XP-G2s (cool-white or neutral) with reflectors to produce a beam with tighter focus than the Piccolos (10 lumens low, 85 lumens high)
> 
> Although all lights are pretty compact and small for AAA size, the Ottavinos are slightly more compact than the Piccolos and of course the 10280 Ottavino is still much smaller being suitable for neckchain use (a neckchain is provided with it) as well as keyfob duties. Due to the 10280 li-ion firing up this little beast, it produces 145 lumens on high which is quite spectacular.
> 
> Anyway I can only say good things about Tain's lights.



Is he going to do some new runs of these beauties?


----------



## easilyled

rickyro said:


> Is he going to do some new runs of these beauties?



I don't know but I guess you could PM him.


----------



## turkeylord

I liked my Illumination Supply Preon P2 219B so much that I bought another and cannibalized it to put the pill in a Maratac AAA Cu body.

chillinn, you could pick one up and add a P1 body for another $7.


----------



## F250XLT

I haven't been around for a while, glad to see this thread is still alive. :thumbsup:


----------



## GordoJones88

yoyoman said:


> Gathered my AAA lights, or at least most of them, and was impressed with the variety and quality of these little lights.



Pics or it didn't happen.


----------



## GordoJones88

feifei said:


> Like 18650 battery flashlght,rechargeable



This guy has proved it is not very difficult.


----------



## kaichu dento

F250XLT said:


> I haven't been around for a while, glad to see this thread is still alive. :thumbsup:


No you haven't, and we're glad to see you back!


GordoJones88 said:


> Pics or it didn't happen.


Hmmm, I agree! Let's see some more pics here!


----------



## jorn

Some of my aaa lights. Could not find them all in my ehm archive (ther are aaa lights everywhere in my house, in car, at work). Super throwy 3xaaa to super small to the super silly (direct driven 3xaaa xp-g princess light lol) . Got the princess light as a gift. Some friends gave it to me to mock my flashoholism. I just had to mod it to make their grim smile dissapera haha.






The biggest problem with aaa is they are so darn easy to loose, and so hard to find when lost...


----------



## magellan

I like the Xeno also and tend to switch off between my AAA and AA lights.



ChrisGarrett said:


> If we're talking 'keychain' lights, then yes, an AAA light like a Maglite Solitaire can be fine, or even those 'coin lights' that Battery Junction (and others) is giving away. I've got a little 4x357 button, 3 LED 'Chang Special' on my keychain and it's fine for most of my needs and at $2, it's no loss if I lose it.
> 
> Now, for an EDC pocket carry light, I just got a Xeno E03 in and it's a pretty smallish light that can run on any AA sized battery, so why not go this route with three times the capacity of a AAA and not a whole lot longer, or thicker? The outputs are greater, as well, even on alkalines vs. Li-Lion.
> 
> Chris


----------



## magellan

Jorn,

Nice collection of AAA lights!


----------



## davidt1

who sells single AAA with Nichia 219?


----------



## Tixx

davidt1 said:


> who sells single AAA with Nichia 219?


http://www.darksucks.com/store_BetaQR.html


----------



## bodhran

The RayusC01 uses the 219.


----------



## davidt1

Thanks for the suggestions, guys.

Those lights came so close to meet my need.

The Beta is a bit long.

The RayusC01 only has one mode. Still, at that price I might get one for the tint.


----------



## Kamerat

davidt1 said:


> Thanks for the suggestions, guys.
> 
> Those lights came so close to meet my need.
> 
> The Beta is a bit long.
> 
> The RayusC01 only has one mode. Still, at that price I might get one for the tint.



The Peak Eiger with QTC is nice (mule or small optic). Remember that you can always ask Vinh or someone else if they want to put in a Nichia 219 in your favorite light with favorite UI.


----------



## yoyoman

Latest family picture


----------



## ven

Hi there mr yoyo,WOW awesome pic,fantastic family :thumbsup:there and on my fav classic 911 bonnet 


Just dont drive off 


:laughing:


----------



## Tapis

davidt1 said:


> who sells single AAA with Nichia 219?



L3 Illumination L08


----------



## davidt1

The L08 is another nice light that, unfortunately, won't work for me size wise. I wish it was shorter and, has a uniform dimension like the L10.

I am looking for something that is 2.75'' max in length. The shorter the better.


----------



## Monocrom

My next light will be a certain single-AAA model in Titanium.

These types of lights (Ti or otherwise) are simply fantastic.


----------



## kaichu dento

davidt1 said:


> The L08 is another nice light that, unfortunately, won't work for me size wise. I wish it was shorter and, has a uniform dimension like the L10.
> 
> I am looking for something that is 2.75'' max in length. The shorter the better.


That's why I don't have one - if I've got to put up with the larger diameter head, I might as well have the whole light to the same dimensions.

Love the L10, although I gave them all away and have to order some more, all the while wishing for an L08 without the bulbous head on it.


----------



## yoyoman

I agree these AAA lights are fantastic. 5 of mine are Ti: Tain Ottavino AAA twisty, McGizmo Sapphire, Foursevens P1 (with clickie from a P2), Foursevens Atom AO (the first run was in ti) and Klarus. The Tain is in my pocket everyday. The Klarus with an Energizer Lithium Primary is very light - like a feather. Stick in a li-ion 10440 and the output is impressive. 

The aluminum lights are also light and it doesn't bother me when the finish wears or chips from use. The stainless AAA lights are solid and robust and are a good choice, IMO, for keychain duty.

I don't have the L3 Illumination L08, but I do have the L10 AA model with a Nichia 219A. Very good value - regulation, beam profile and tint are all nice.


----------



## feifei

Love AAA battery flashlight,I use mine on mine keychain,and didn't change battery for ovr two months,of course ,only use it for a few minutes everyday.


----------



## leon2245

kaichu dento said:


> davidt1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wish it was shorter and, has a uniform dimension like the L10.
> 
> 
> 
> *
> That's why I don't have one - if I've got to put up with the larger diameter head, I might as well have the whole light to the same dimensions*.
Click to expand...


So not just if the head were smaller, but even if they had merely increased the thickness of the body to match the head diameter, you might be interested? Uniformity at the expense of increased overall volume in the latter.

I actually like it. As a free floating pocket carrier it makes for quicker orientation by touch.


----------



## turkeylord

davidt1 said:


> The L08 is another nice light that, unfortunately, won't work for me size wise. I wish it was shorter and, has a uniform dimension like the L10.
> 
> I am looking for something that is 2.75'' max in length. The shorter the better.



http://www.illumn.com/foursevens-preon-p2-high-cri-edition-neutral-white-black.html
plus
http://www.illumn.com/foursevens-preon-body-black.html
and optionally
http://www.illumn.com/foursevens-preon-tailcap-black.html

Or, the Preon head will fit on a Maratac body for the ultimate shortness. I have a 219B Preon pill in my Maratac AAA Cu body.


----------



## InvisibleFrodo

I love the Prometheus Beta AAA. The copper version and its three mode driver is awesome. It's amazing how useful the 1 lumen low mode is. Perfect beam with a big hotspot and a really big spill. And the new V.2 quick release was a total home run IMO. Fits perfect like an extention of the flashlight.


----------



## mustang90

If you have not purchased one of these, you are missing out!
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?388109-E05SSvn-Best-Stainless-AAA

I picked up the single mode 1200 led lumen and it will really make you wonder how it's even possible. Nice quality light to begin with, but Vinhs mod makes it over the top.


----------



## Tapis

A single 1200 lumens mode on a AAA keychain flashlight!!! Holy cow, what do you use it for?


----------



## kaichu dento

leon2245 said:


> So not just if the head were smaller, but even if they had merely increased the thickness of the body to match the head diameter, you might be interested? Uniformity at the expense of increased overall volume in the latter.


Absolutely not. You clipped out that portion from the rest of the post which makes it sound like that.

In the case of wishing for AAA lights size will always be at least one of the important points, and generally smaller being more desirable.


----------



## leon2245

Ok, yeah me neither. Was just curious to know just how serious you took your uniform diameters. 





kaichu dento said:


> That's why I don't have one - if I've got to put up with the larger diameter head, I might as well have the whole light to the same dimensions.
> Love the L10, although I gave them all away and have to order some more, all the while wishing for an L08 without the bulbous head on it.


----------



## davidt1

turkeylord said:


> http://www.illumn.com/foursevens-preon-p2-high-cri-edition-neutral-white-black.html
> plus
> http://www.illumn.com/foursevens-preon-body-black.html
> and optionally
> http://www.illumn.com/foursevens-preon-tailcap-black.html
> 
> Or, the Preon head will fit on a Maratac body for the ultimate shortness. I have a 219B Preon pill in my Maratac AAA Cu body.



The Preon 1 is 2.95''. That's longer than I need. It's a fine light though.


----------



## mustang90

Tapis said:


> A single 1200 lumens mode on a AAA keychain flashlight!!! Holy cow, what do you use it for?



I use it to bring a smile to my face... Lol!


----------



## LED User

Hi guys, [new here]
I decided to make my first post in this thread because my EDC is a 1xAAA that I have been carrying now for more than 3 yrs. and I love it. It just packs a lot into its little size! Its an ITP A3 EOS Upgraded model. I've since bought one for my wife, and both sons and their wives. :thumbsup:

I removed the keychain and carry it with my change in a front pocket, have loaned it out at the movies to find someone's car keys, etc.


----------



## rpm00

The short peak Eiger is quite nice. I have the mule and have been using it to read stories to my daughter at night.


----------



## Tapis

That's on the top of my buying list. Although I must confess being very confused by the way the different options are presented on their website, which absolutely prevents making a spontaneous and enjoyable purchase.


----------



## rpm00

@tapis,
What are you looking for? Maybe I can help? 

Keychain loop? Momentary Clicky button? Mile, wide or narrow beam? Variable brightness or just on/off?


----------



## KQL

My latest AAA light, the Thrunite Ti3 with a NW emitter has been a very pleasant surprise. It was my first Thrunite purchase. The threads are excellent, nice and snug, no wiggle at all, unlike all my Fenix lights. Have dropped my keys a few times now, small nicks in ano, but function remains perfect. I really like the glass lens, since Fenix seems to have switched to plastic ones, I get scratches on their lenses right away.


----------



## Valpo Hawkeye

KQL said:


> My latest AAA light, the Thrunite Ti3 with a NW emitter has been a very pleasant surprise. It was my first Thrunite purchase. The threads are excellent, nice and snug, no wiggle at all, unlike all my Fenix lights. Have dropped my keys a few times now, small nicks in ano, but function remains perfect. I really like the glass lens, since Fenix seems to have switched to plastic ones, I get scratches on their lenses right away.



How's their neutral tint? Green?


----------



## jruser

Anybody in here have an Eiger? If so, could you comment on brightness on a NiMH?


----------



## KQL

Valpo Hawkeye said:


> How's their neutral tint? Green?



The hotspot has a faint yellow cast, as I would expect from a warmer tint, and the spill has a very slight purple hue, due to the AR coating probably. To me, the warmer tint is MUCH more desirable than the blue CW.


----------



## davidt1

Got the DQG clicky today. Not the light I hoped for, but I kind of knew that. It's impressively bright. The beam is nice with a huge hot spot. Tint is a little warmer than my Zebralight H52w. Of all my lights, I like this beam profile and tint the most. So what's wrong this it? The head gets warm very fast on medium and high. None of my other lights get warm on medium. Buzzing noise is audible on medium. The clicky switch doesn't always start on low. 

The quest to find that perfect (for me) single AAA light that is small and cheap continues.


----------



## GordoJones88

davidt1 said:


> Got the DQG clicky today. Not the light I hoped for, but I kind of knew that.




Do you have the one on the left or the right?


----------



## Tapis

Is there such thing as a Tri-EDC flashlight using AAA batteries?


----------



## davidt1

GordoJones88 said:


> Do you have the one on the left or the right?



I have the one on the right. What's the difference between them?

I ran it on medium on three different batteries. Run time was about 30 minutes each time. And the light was hot, like a 10440 battery was used.

Low mode lasted about 4 hours.


----------



## GordoJones88

davidt1 said:


> I have the one on the right. What's the difference between them?



The one on the right is not a DQG.
I bought one last month from Banggood.
They apparently have it mislabeled.
I think it's a great little light.

The modes are 7/70/140.
For a really small AAA that is like Lo/Hi/Turbo.
If you leave such a small light on Hi mode for 30 minutes, it is gonna get hot.
It has very little mass to wick away the heat.





davidt1 said:


> Of all my lights, I like this beam profile and tint the most.



I agree.


----------



## davidt1

I am glad you like it.

I don't. I can't. Not with battery only lasting around 30 minutes on the MIDDLE mode.

I thought I was buying a much hyped DGQ light, not some unknown junk.


----------



## Glofindel

these are my AAA. Some more are on the way.


----------



## aturovidal

It's a diffuser that I made myself. I think I went into this three or four pages back in this very thread. LOL!


----------



## yoyoman

I worked late last night and after talking with the family, grabbed a glass of single malt, the pooch and a few of my AAA lights and went outside to relax. Not the whole family, just what was nearby. The diversity of the lights really impressed me. Different materials - alum, SS, Ti, and copper. Different emitters - Nichia 219, XP-G2, XP-G, XP-E. Different tints - very warm, neutral, cool white. Even different beam profiles - OK, none of them throw a pencil beam, but some are more floody and some have a pronounced hot spot with generous spill. Also, different cell chemistries - Energizer lithium primaries, Eneloops and li-ions. Mainly twisties, but 1 or 2 reverse clickies in the bunch. I agree: it is very difficult not to love AAAs these days.


----------



## paskal

Just want to share. I'm waiting for these light http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti/


----------



## davidt1

paskal said:


> Just want to share. I'm waiting for these light http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti/



I like the knurling on this light -- reminds me of my Maratac. Looks like they are sticking with skipping the medium mode. Don't care for the memory function. In fact, I think it's a hindrance. Funny when I started out many years ago, I wanted lights with memory mode. Now I just want my light to start on one mode (usually low) and not have to think about it.


----------



## GordoJones88

davidt1 said:


> Don't care for the memory function. In fact, I think it's a hindrance. Funny when I started out many years ago, I wanted lights with memory mode. Now I just want my light to start on one mode (usually low) and not have to think about it.



I agree, I want my lights to always start in Lo,
especially if there is a direct access to Turbo.

However, this Thrunite Ti memory only lasts 10 seconds,
then it will start in Lo mode.


----------



## chillinn

paskal said:


> Just want to share. I'm waiting for these light http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti/



I wonder what the origin of this Maratac, Olight, Thrunite form is... what was the first AAA just light like this?
Was there an older incan version?


----------



## yoyoman

The Ti really is ti and it uses the XP-L V5 emitter. Interesting choice in an AAA light that does not support li-ions.


----------



## chillinn

yoyoman said:


> The Ti really is ti and it uses the XP-L V5 emitter. Interesting choice in an AAA light that does not support li-ions.



Not sure what the fascination is with Ti: its not that pretty (stainless shined looks prettier), it is not a precious metal, feels cheap, and so it is stronger and more brittle by weight than aluminum. Ok. But Silver, otoh, would be a great material, yet I know of no silver, Ag, lights. Help?

---edit
found a guy with a shop:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/toftylight


----------



## davidt1

chillinn said:


> I wonder what the origin of this Maratac, Olight, Thrunite form is... what was the first AAA just light like this?
> Was there an older incan version?



The Maglite AAA has been around for a long time, no? I think it was the Maratac that started the inexpensive multi-mode AAA light market that we see today. I paid around $24 for the original Maratac when it first became available. The Fenix LD01 was selling for around $40 at the same time.


----------



## easilyled

chillinn said:


> Not sure what the fascination is with Ti: its not that pretty (stainless shined looks prettier), it is not a precious metal, feels cheap, and so it is stronger and more brittle by weight than aluminum. Ok. But Silver, otoh, would be a great material, yet I know of no silver, Ag, lights. Help?
> 
> ---edit
> found a guy with a shop:
> http://www.shapeways.com/shops/toftylight



There are plenty of threads which are very informative about the advantages and disadvantages of various metals. However its off-topic in this one.


----------



## yoyoman

Sorry this got off track. This is the first Thrunite Ti series that really is ti. 

The real point of my post was about the emitter - XP-L. Same footprint as the XP-G2. I don't know much about this emitter and was wondering what others think about this choice, especially in an AAA light that doesn't support li-ions.


----------



## Raven-burg

Silver! Couldn't personally think of a worse metal to have my light made out of! It's expensive, soft snd really does tarnish over a relatively short period. Saying that! It's great at conducting heat and electricity so there's an argument for it!
Never really understood copper lights too. Tarnishes really bad, heavy and makes your hands smell.
Would be nice to see some lights made out of new materials but no doubt they would cost a small fortune. Titanium just has a prestige about it!

Just ordered the new Thrunite Ti AAA and can't wait for it!
Already have a Klarus Mi10 and Fenix E05/E05 SS. 

Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## 5S8Zh5

paskal said:


> Just want to share. I'm waiting for these light http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti/



Amazon is ready.


----------



## chillinn

easilyled said:


> There are plenty of threads which are very informative about the advantages and disadvantages of various metals. However its off-topic in this one.



apologies, and thx... I have trouble with relevance. I'm still curious about the form origin in AAA, if that's not off topic. 


HTML:


ASCII
 ______________________                       _
|                      \_____________________| |
|                                              |                                   
|                                              |
|                                              |
|                       _____________________  |
|______________________/                     |_|


Does the form have a name, other than "like the _brand x_?" There are quite a number of quality brands today, and over the years, that have one of these in their catalog. Perhaps it needs its own thread, and a virtual configurator (x material, y led, z electrics ---> made by aa sold by bb), because its very popular, and there are even more pills than brands.


----------



## chillinn

Silver/Copper - its quite simple, really. There is personal taste, there is vanity and there is utility. Most ignore vanity, so we will too. So its what you like, and what it does for you. This depends on where you are and what you're doing. If you work in a clean, new, AC environment with nearby soap and water, your hands stay clean, and you don't get sick by transfering what you touch with your hands when you scratch your nose or eyes. But maybe you work in an environment that has a higher risk of transfer. Titanium (and SS) will do nothing for you in a hospital or *bio*-rich environment: bacteria can grow between the gnarles of your Ti light, and you'll never know it, and it may kill you some day. Silver and copper, besides their beauty, if you appreciate that sort of thing, and beyond their unmatched conductive properties, will self-disinfect. Brass and aluminum will, too, to much less extent. btw, it is not the copper that makes your hands smell, but _your_ hands that makes the copper smell. Big difference: don't blame the metal, its you!


---
sorry, I did it again... off topic. ok.. no more posts today! SORRY :/


----------



## Bill S.

paskal said:


> Just want to share. I'm waiting for these light http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti/



Just ordered one. Thanks for the link!


----------



## GordoJones88

paskal said:


> Just want to share. I'm waiting for these light http://www.thrunite.com/thrunite-ti/



Just ordered one. Thanks for the link!


----------



## turkeylord

Haven't seen this one mentioned in here. Pretty happy to have another Nichia 219 option.






10440 support too!

http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25aaa/index.html


----------



## GordoJones88

turkeylord said:


> Pretty happy to have another Nichia 219 option.
> 10440 support too!



I'm "curious" about what exactly is gonna happen.
It's a Nichia219 being Direct Drive with a Li-ion in a AAA.
I hope Selfbuilt can give some lumen measurements.



Supports output dimming with li-ion battery 
Allows LED direct drive with li-ion battery at high mode


----------



## Speedfreakz

yoyoman said:


> The Ti really is ti and it uses the XP-L V5 emitter. Interesting choice in an AAA light that does not support li-ions.



Bummer, I didn't realize it didn't. That's off my shopping list


----------



## turkeylord

GordoJones88 said:


> I'm skeptical about what exactly is gonna happen.
> It's a Nichia219 being Direct Drive with a Li-ion in a AAA.


I haven't had any issues at all with my 219 Preon running on an IMR 10440, hopefully this one will do just as well. I swapped it into a Maratac AAA Cu body and it's probably my favorite light.


----------



## yoyoman

I've read that the Ti3 does not support li-ions. Someone tried and it went poof. Not sure if the Ti will support li-ions or not. May be someone will try....


----------



## turkeylord

GordoJones88 said:


> I'm skeptical about what exactly is gonna happen.
> It's a Nichia219 being Direct Drive with a Li-ion in a AAA.
> I hope Selfbuilt can give some lumen measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> Supports output dimming with li-ion battery
> Allows LED direct drive with li-ion battery at high mode


First report is sounding good... *crossing fingers*


Flight_Deck said:


> Amazing light!
> 
> Using a 10440 this thing is brighter than a four sevens Preon running on a 10440 (though not recommended by the manufacturer), by at least 20% to my eye.
> 
> A real keeper to be sure!


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

GordoJones88 said:


> I'm skeptical about what exactly is gonna happen.
> It's a Nichia219 being Direct Drive with a Li-ion in a AAA.
> I hope Selfbuilt can give some lumen measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> _*Supports output dimming with li-ion battery*_
> Allows LED direct drive with li-ion battery at high mode



What is "output dimming" supposed to mean anyway. That seems like a very made up phrase with no real description behind it.


----------



## yoyoman

I agree that I have no clear idea what this means. Does it mean that with direct drive that output will reduce with voltage? Or does it mean something else?


----------



## turkeylord

I took it to mean that the 8% and 30% levels were still available on 10440.  Probably just a bad translation issue.


----------



## GordoJones88

Output dimming with Li-ion is what Eagletac has claimed with their D25 series lights before.
It does mean Lo/Med mode should still be the same,
while only the Hi mode will be direct drive.

Specifically, I am curious about how much brighter 
the Nichia219 being Direct Drive on Hi mode will be,
as compared to the XPG2 being in Direct Drive in Hi mode.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

I couldn't resist a decent looking light with a pretty nice on body clip so I ordered me one of the D25 AAA N219B lights. Will report back on 10440 vs. NiMH when it gets here.


----------



## twl

Yes, the actual lights seem to be nice.
Now if we could only get rid of the looney designers who had the cockamamie idea to put magnets on the lights, maybe we will actually be able to buy some.


----------



## jorn

You can kill a magnet in seconds. I used a lighter to heat up the magnet on my preon P0. After about 20 sek of heating and 4 seconds wiping off the soot, 99% of the magnetism was gone 
Any heat source will do, magnets will start to loose magnetism when heated over 80 celsius. (176 fahrenheit).


----------



## mzil

I wish the magnetism could be easily brought back once erased. With the lighter trick it can't. On odd occasion the magnet is useful but I agree generally I don't want it because it grabs at other things on my keychain.

In loudspeaker design they sometimes use what is called a "bucking magnet" which attaches to the main magnet and sucks 99% of the magnetic field right back in. Perhaps they could add a bucking magnet screw cap to flashlights which you unscrew to expose the magnet only when needed?


----------



## turkeylord

mzil said:


> In loudspeaker design they sometimes use what is called a "bucking magnet" which attaches to the main magnet and sucks 99% of the magnetic field right back in. Perhaps they could add a bucking magnet screw cap to flashlights which you unscrew to expose the magnet only when needed?


That's an excellent idea. I bet even a steel cap held on by the magnet would reign in the field quite a bit.


----------



## twl

There is some stuff called "mu metal" that shields magnetism. Not cheap, but it can be found.
The sad part is that people would have to even do this. Who in the heck asked for magnets, anyway???????


----------



## mzil

twl said:


> Who in the heck asked for magnets, anyway???????


 My frig.  Ha-ha. It is where I keep both my Preon P0 and Atom.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

Guys - the EagleTac D25 AAA N219B arrived today. I am very happy. For a $30 light it's a definite keeper. Nice beam and tint. 3 usable levels on a NiMH and 3 very nice levels on a 10440 (need to use the AW blue 10440 with button top - eFest 10440 IMR doesn't work - soon to be resolved with a small solder blob  ). On the AW 10440 I measure 60mA, 250mA and 1.3A. You can definitely run it on high for over 30 seconds and it doesn't become too hot to handle either. The clip is very functional and the magnet is a neat addition. I could see this becoming a very carefree EDC quickly.

I am very picky about my lights and have very specific criteria of what makes a light good to me. I would go so far as to say that this may be one of the best AAA lights I've used since the Preon Revo was out. It's basically the same UI and I love it!


----------



## chillinn

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> ...need to use the AW blue 10440 with button top - eFest 10440 IMR doesn't work ... On the AW 10440 I measure 60mA, 250mA and 1.3A



Of the button top AW blue 10440... know of any for sale anywhere?


----------



## LedTed

[h=1]My Tain Ottavino is too special for EDC. I just got a Titanium Innovations Illuminati CA1-AL. Even though the CA1-AL uses PWM, with its coolie wooden gift box, it's an easy to love AAA light.[/h]


----------



## yoyoman

You don't know what you're missing. Best one-handed operation of any AAA light. Neutral tint and the V2 beam is floody goodness. Always in my pocket.


----------



## FlyboyCMH

I carry a Stylus Pro always and it's sufficient 95%+ of the time. Have a PD35 if I need more...great flashlight, but rarely needed.


----------



## Tapis

Is there such a thing as an AAA or 2xAAA flashlight with a variable control ring?


----------



## ForrestChump

That Fenix LDO2 @ REI keeps yanking at me....


"Don't do it. Don't do it. Don't do it."


My rule is 3 lights. But I WANT it.


----------



## mzil

Tapis said:


> Is there such a thing as an AAA or 2xAAA flashlight with a variable control ring?


There are ones with three or more light levels, but none with a variable control ring.


----------



## turkeylord

mzil said:


> There are ones with three or more light levels, but none with a variable control ring.


Yep. Next best thing would be the QTC Peaks.


----------



## chillinn

turkeylord said:


> Yep. Next best thing would be the QTC Peaks.



That and the Quantum have the "quantum tunneling," sounds like marketing-speak... isn't it simply a load cell?


----------



## turkeylord

chillinn said:


> That and the Quantum have the "quantum tunneling," sounds like marketing-speak... isn't it simply a load cell?


No, it's different: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quantum_tunnelling_composite

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qI5q6OqSo4s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKY5A03q-Vs

I'd like to pick one up eventually.


----------



## rpm00

The QTC pills can be a little finicky to be honest. On small lights like the Eiger it's finicky enough that you effectively have around a three mode light.


----------



## mzil

rpm00 said:


> The QTC pills can be a little finicky to be honest. On small lights like the Eiger it's finicky enough that you effectively have around a three mode light.


That's good to know for future reference. I'm reminded of how with digital point and shoot cameras, which I study, people (including reviewers) always speak of the very wide angle setting (say 24mm equivalent focal length) positively, whereas my experience with one forced me to buy a new camera. Although having such a wide setting is useful in some instances the problem is it is the default mode when you power up and changing to a slightly zoomed in setting of 32 mm or so, much more useful in day-to-day shots, is next to impossible with the tiny, overactive, fiddly zoom lever. Sure, full wide angle or fully zoomed in compositions are easy to achieve but anything in between, with any degree of precision, is a complete crapshoot. I can't for the life of me figure out how the pro reviewers can overlook this profound deficiency in user control and interaction, but they consistently do.


----------



## DevBear

Love my Thrunite Ti (Titanium version) very much! Nice firefly mode and wide hotspot! 162lm on the high mode.


----------



## kaichu dento

Tapis said:


> Is there such a thing as an AAA or 2xAAA flashlight with a variable control ring?


Keep your eyes on MBI from GuyWithNoName....


----------



## chadvone

Noticed Lumapower is coming out with a Avenger RX. Not released yet. Specs are on Marketplace


----------



## jon_slider

Im new to flashlights and recently bought some Fenix e05 2014, Thrunite Ti Titanium, Olight i3s, and Maratac Rev 3 copper.

the e05 is 8-25-85 lumens, in that sequence. It has no pocket clip. I give these to non flashoholics that don't need moonlight or firefly lows. The threads are excellent, the light works as delivered without any modifications.

the Thrunite Ti Titanium is .04-12-162. I do not recommend this light. The threads are horribly gritty, and the tint is very green. The keychain has no clip on one end, pretty useless as I throw away the triangle ring on the light because it is flimsy and opens up easily.. No PWM disclosed, but on a stream of water, I believe I detect PWM.

Olight i3s is 20-85-.5. It has by far the best threads for smooth manual operation. Works perfectly out of the box. I like the keychain because it has the small clasp that can easily be detached. I throw away the little triangular keyring connection, it is very flimsy. I do the same with the Thrunite. But the Olight keychain can still be attached to the light body, without using the triangle ring, unlike the Thrunite, to which i had to add a small split ring. No PWM.

Maratac Rev 3 Copper. 40-138-1.5. This light uses PWM. It arrives too tight to use one handed. The Oring is very tight, I removed mine to make it easier to operate. Very smooth threads. Reversible pocket clip, but it is too long and interferes with tail standing when clip is in hat mode. Operation was gritty due to excess battery tension. I swapped out the spring for a spare spring I got on an Olight. The Maratac is MUCH smoother now. I love the copper's germicidal property and aesthetic and feel, even though the light is 60% heavier than the other 3 above. I sanded down the knurling a bit, it comes pretty sharp. I like that this light comes on in a useful Medium first. imo the 1.5 lumen low is a bit higher than I have come to appreciate. I prefer the .5 lumen low of the Olight.

Since I want to try an N219 light
I looked at the specs for the D25 6-32-68 but it lacks moonlight, which is important to me
I looked at the peak eiger but the QTC looks way too finnicky, and I find the look of the light unappealing.
I am curious about the Prometheus Beta Copper 1-15-85 with N219. If anyone can point me to, or post, a beam color comparison between the Beta and the Olight i3s, both on high, I would like to see the color differences.


----------



## GordoJones88

jon_slider said:


> I am curious about the Prometheus Beta Copper 1-15-85 with N219. If anyone can point me to, or post, a beam color comparison between the Beta and the Olight i3s, both on high, I would like to see the color differences.



Comparing a Nichia 219 with an XPG is not necessary.
The 219 has a very appealing tint, it's just not as bright.
So if you are not looking for the brightess, then 219 is a good choice.

The Copper Beta QR is a great light, but pricey.

If you are looking to try a Nichia 219 light,
I would like to recommend the L3 Illumination L11C AA.
3-mode or 4-mode with firefly
Clicky with clip or Twisty
Nichia 219 or XPG2

I have the 3-mode Clicky/Clip Nichia 219 in Natural color (grey).

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?396206-L11C


----------



## jon_slider

GordoJones88 said:


> ...
> The 219 has a very appealing tint, it's just not as bright....
> The Copper Beta QR is a great light, but pricey.
> ... I would like to recommend the L3 Illumination L11C AA.


Thanks for all the info. Im focusing on aaa for now
I have an appointment to meet with Jason of Prometheus in 2 days. I will compare the Beta Cu N219 beam to my Olight i3s XP-G2, both have 85 lumen highs. 
Im guessing I will come home with an N219 Beta so I can experience it over time... this forum can get expensive! lol 

this thread needs more pics, here you can see the small quick release crab claw of the Olight chain, clipped to the Maratac, and the chain that comes with the Thrunite Titanium, that lacks the claw.


----------



## kaichu dento

Great pics Jon and I liked your little writeup too.


----------



## masterP

after owning a Maglite solitaire, I always considered AAA keychain lights to be total garbage and a waste of time

that being said, I'm looking forward to the new Surefire Titan. it might change my mind about AAA flashlights. the solitaire left a bad taste in my mouth

I really wish Surefire would put knurling on their flashlights!!!


----------



## jon_slider

kaichu dento said:


> Great pics Jon and I liked your little writeup too.


thanks! 
ProCom BetaTac CU Fantasy, L-M-H and high CRI, clip included!


----------



## Bullzeyebill

jon_slider said:


> thanks!
> ProCom BetaTac CU Fantasy, L-M-H and high CRI, clip included!



Do you have a good link to the Fantasy?


----------



## H.J.M.

jon_slider said:


> thanks!
> ProCom BetaTac CU Fantasy, L-M-H and high CRI, clip included!


I'll take it. Pp info plz. 
"cough cough" I know..


----------



## jabe1

Really? Same threads?


----------



## jon_slider

jabe1 said:


> Really? Same threads?


Yes, but, the pill depth is different and there is some Fantasy wobble that requires using the O ring. The Prometheus body wont light the Maratac head. BUT, the Maratac body DOES light the Prometheus head. I LOVE the high CRI!!! Love the smaller size, Love saving the 13 grams extra weight. Love the pocket clip option. So, until I hear from Vinh on modding the Maratac head to a High CRI no PWM.. Ive got a work in process, proof of concept, Rocking!






You can currently buy both the Prometheus and the Maratac, thats how I fullfilled my Fantasy .. Still amazed at how the colors PoP! with high CRI

Anyone interested in a Fantasy conversation, PM me, I will be happy to share info. My next Fantasy is a light weight high Cri Cu aaa with no PWM, and a hot blonde brunette to turn it on.

Gotta Love a High CRI aaa Today!

more of my newbie rants and raves:
First Impressions Prometheus Beta
First impressions, Maratac Rev3 aaa Copper


----------



## kaichu dento

masterP said:


> after owning a Maglite solitaire, I always considered AAA keychain lights to be total garbage and a waste of time


If the Solitaire is where you left off with AAA lights you've really missed out on a lot of great lights!

For AAA lights you really need to be at least a little familiar with the L0D, LD02, LF2XT and a great range of others whose model numbers just aren't coming to me after having just left the bar!


----------



## jorn

kaichu dento said:


> If the Solitaire is where you left off with AAA lights you've really missed out on a lot of great lights!


Agree. 
Using the Solitare as a messure stick for aaa lights is bad. Its like claiming that making a camp fire is too darn hard. Because last time it took almost a week rubbing those twigs together berfore someting got lit hehe


----------



## mzil

Yes, the original incandescent Solitaire is a poor quality light, however for those of you looking for a real budget AAA with great bang for the buck, I can't think of a _better_ light than the _*LED *_Solitaire for around $11 to $12, _shipped. _Keep in mind I say this as an owner of multiple 4-Sevens [ReVO, Preon, Atom A0], Maratac, Olight, Titanium Innovations, and iTP brand AAA lights.

The difference between the old incandescent and the new LED version is night and day.


----------



## MrJino

Sometimes I carry a e01 in my chef coat front pocket.
I don't even know it's there sometimes and goes through washer and dryer.

Still works fine.


----------



## Monocrom

masterP said:


> after owning a Maglite solitaire, I always considered AAA keychain lights to be total garbage and a waste of time
> 
> that being said, I'm looking forward to the new Surefire Titan. it might change my mind about AAA flashlights. the solitaire left a bad taste in my mouth
> 
> I really wish Surefire would put knurling on their flashlights!!!



They used to! Good enough to literally saw into a 2AA Mini-Mag. Then they decided to go baby-smooth crazy. I'm glad I built up my SureFire collection during the Golden Age of SureFire. An Age that is definitely over.


----------



## MrJino

Just curious, what are the best AAA batteries out there? 

Eneloops? I could only find them Around 800 mah.


----------



## maglite mike

kaichu dento said:


> If the Solitaire is where you left off with AAA lights you've really missed out on a lot of great lights!
> Marduke - Solitaire...I've seen matches which are brighter AND have a longer runtime. 光陰矢の如し
> 
> For AAA lights you really need to be at least a little familiar with the L0D, LD02, LF2XT and a great range of others whose model numbers just aren't coming to me after having just left the bar!



New solitaire Led is a great light. Time to change your tag line


----------



## mzil

MrJino said:


> Just curious, what are the best AAA batteries out there?
> 
> Eneloops? I could only find them Around 800 mah.


Lithium are the best in nearly all regards except price. The have an almost 20 year shelf life, survive temperature extremes, hardly if ever leak, weigh about 20% less than alkalines, and have the largest capacity. http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/l92.pdf


----------



## jon_slider

mzil said:


> The difference between the old incandescent and the new LED version is night and day.



yes, the Solitaire is now a single mode 37 lumens. for a similar price I would suggest something with an N219.. Im on the CRI soapbox and loving the seeing the colors PoP!

the budget priced aaa N219 lights Im currently aware of are L3 Illumination L08, and the Eagle Tac D25.. they are similar size and weight as the solitaire, there may be others



MrJino said:


> Just curious, what are the best AAA batteries out there?
> 
> Eneloops? I could only find them Around 800 mah.



I have been enjoying my Eneloops, no complaints at all. I was using the Ultimate Lithiums before that, but it made me miserly about using my light as much as I wanted to. Now I can burn through a battery and not worry about it at all. I think I spent $20 for 8 Lithiums, and then spent $18 for a charger with 4AA and 4AAA Eneloops.. I would do Eneloops again.

For a few dollars more you can get Eneloop Pro now, they have a few more mah, but the regular Eneloops are fine too. I believe they also have a very stable shelf life, dont leak, and could live in your apron happily .. Go for it!



mzil said:


> Lithium ... weigh about 20% less than alkalines



good point the lithium are actually 50% lighter. My Alkaline aaa weigh 11 grams, the eneloops weigh 12 grams, and the Lithiums weigh 6 grams. The lightest weight combo would definitely be to use Lithium. But to put 6 grams in perspective, take a nickel out of your pocket, thats 5 grams.. so, carry one less coin, and you can use an Eneloop instead ... Im totally biased to the Eneloops, whats not to like?


----------



## MrJino

Uh oh


----------



## jon_slider

such a tease! feel free to add your thoughts: First-Impressions-Prometheus-Beta


----------



## MrJino

This website is going to wipe out my savings....


----------



## GordoJones88

MrJino said:


> Just curious, what are the best AAA batteries out there?
> Eneloops? I could only find them Around 800 mah.



Eneloop Pro is pretty much the best right now.

However, a close second can be had at any local store you go to.

Duracell Rechargeable 'Duralock' green/copper 850mAh.


----------



## MrJino

Ok. Have rechargeable eneloops in the mail. 
I bought some cheap CVS NiMH 1.2 v at 600 mah. Hopefully it'll be ok?


----------



## jon_slider

they wont hurt anything, just wont last as long.. You can do a test and leave the Beta running on high, just for fun, as a ceiling bounce candle, maybe you will get 40 minutes instead of 50... Nice to see you have great taste in cutlery too


----------



## kaichu dento

jorn said:


> Using the Solitare as a measure stick for aaa lights is bad. It's like claiming that making a camp fire is too darn hard. Because last time it took almost a week rubbing those twigs together berfore someting got lit hehe


Yeah, exactly!



maglite mike said:


> New solitaire Led is a great light. Time to change your tag line


Except that the Solitaire and the Solitaire LED are two separate lights. The original Solitaire will always stand as one of, at the time of its release, the most exciting and at the same time disappointing lights ever.


----------



## Lord Flashlight

mzil said:


> Yes, the original incandescent Solitaire is a poor quality light, however for those of you looking for a real budget AAA with great bang for the buck, I can't think of a _better_ light than the _*LED *_Solitaire for around $11 to $12, _shipped. _Keep in mind I say this as an owner of multiple 4-Sevens [ReVO, Preon, Atom A0], Maratac, Olight, Titanium Innovations, and iTP brand AAA lights.
> 
> The difference between the old incandescent and the new LED version is night and day.



I have to agree actually. I have several AAA lights, and the Solitaire LED is the one that stays on my car keys. It's the lightest AAA light I have, and 37 Lumens is exactly what I want as something that can be used to light my way in a car park and be used as a main light for an emergency. Spot to flood focusing is useful for close up map reading.


----------



## buddyrohr

kaichu dento said:


> Great pics Jon and I liked your little writeup too.


ditto. thanks for the comments jon i have an i3s coming and am happier now.


----------



## jon_slider

Solitaire LED, .8 grams plus battery, 37 lumens, no pocket clip
Maratac rev3 LED, .7 grams plus battery, 40 lumens (plus 2 other levels), reversible pocket clip
Olight i3s LED, .4 grams plus battery, 20 lumens (plus 2 other levels), reversible pocket clip

The Solitaire LED is longer and narrower form factor, and has a reflector that can be defocused to produce a dark spot in the middle and dimmer light around the edges, as shown in these videos
solitaire compared to stream light https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hs7ktBgRBRc
original solitaire compared to led solitaire https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRs33N9VoX4

this pic is from the second video, on left original solitaire, on right defocused solitaire led. the LED version is Much brighter. Both produce lots of artifacts in the beam when defocused.







On the right is a Blue incandescent Solitaire.
The other light pictured is my Fantasy Light, Maratac body, Prometheus High CRI head with N219


----------



## chuckhov

Jon,

PM sent!

Thank you,
-Chuck


----------



## WarRaven

Hard not to like them new Solitaire IMO. You get a plastic box with it for under twenty.. I can't see these replacing any edc of mine but maybe an additional compliment to them for loaners maybe.
Yup, that's it, loaners, got to go pick up a couple.


----------



## jon_slider

WarRaven said:


> Hard not to like them new Solitaire IMO. You get a plastic box with it for under twenty..


and a choice of body colors 

but imo, you could do better in terms of tint and CRI, for example here are two N219 single AAA options (non reversible pocket clips included)
EagleTac D25AAA Nichia 219 (under $20 if you join amazon prime)
and L3 Illumination L08, also Nichia 219 (also under $20)


----------



## WarRaven

jon_slider said:


> and a choice of body colors
> 
> but imo, you could do better in terms of tint and CRI, for example here are two N219 single AAA options (non reversible pocket clips included)
> EagleTac D25AAA Nichia 219 (under $20 if you join amazon prime)
> and L3 Illumination L08, also Nichia 219 (also under $20)


Interesting, thank you.
I want a D25AAA, though I have to order one or two to acquire them. 
I can't line up that pricing either. As well not something I'd want to lose. Where these Solitaire if lost/stolen could be replaced same day if store is open. 
It's been so long since I update my lights, these solitaires outperform my Surefires of old. [emoji26] 
So as per thread suggestion, yup, I love bang for buck from AAA these days.


----------



## easilyled

jon_slider said:


> .......but imo, you could do better in terms of tint and CRI....



Is the beam of the Solitaire really so green as in your picture in post #541?

I'm guessing that your picture exaggerates it but that there is a greenish hue in the beam. If this is the case you're certainly right about the tint.


----------



## WarRaven

I believe it's green clothe like a pool table used in video.

Edit, doh, I guess that's obvious in other picture.


----------



## mzil

The Solitaire LED is also the sort of flashlight they sell in brick and mortar stores, whereas most of my other lights aren't. They go on sale from time to time too. I bought mine for $11 shipped but I've seen some stores sell them for $10. [Usually free shipping at that low of a price requires a $50 minimum purchase though.]


----------



## jon_slider

easilyled said:


> Is the beam of the Solitaire really so green as in your picture in post #541?



The picture is a screenshot capture from the video, maybe watch it and see what you think:



jon_slider said:


> original solitaire compared to led solitaire https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRs33N9VoX4


----------



## easilyled

Ah yes, I should have looked at the videos. No wonder!


----------



## jon_slider

easilyled said:


> Ah yes, I should have looked at the videos. No wonder!



sorry, I misunderstood your totally valid question.. my thoughts were so locked on the beam artifacts I totally missed the fact its a green pool table ROTFL... I must have been off my High CRI medication..


----------



## LetThereBeLight!

MrJino said:


> Just curious, what are the best AAA batteries out there?
> 
> Eneloops? I could only find them Around 800 mah.



According to a recent Consumer Reports magazine article, the best AAA and best AA batteries are KIRKLAND batteries.

I ordered mine off of Amazon. And I love 'em.

- LetThereBeLight!


----------



## jon_slider

LetThereBeLight! said:


> According to a recent Consumer Reports magazine article, the best AAA and best AA batteries are KIRKLAND batteries.
> 
> I ordered mine off of Amazon. And I love 'em.
> 
> - LetThereBeLight!



they did not test Eneloops.. and they said Kirkland was the cheapest, not the best

<begin anti alkaline soapbox>

Kirklands are just some of the cheapest alkalines.. you should not use alkalines unless you replace them frequently. They can corrode and get stuck in the light if stored for longer periods. Especially our new lights with O ring waterproof seals, that cannot let the corrosive gases out. Alkaline is Not recommended.

for about 18 bucks you can have a charger, 4 AAA, and 4AA rechargeable Eneloops.. then you can go to town burning up batteries essentially for free.. and you wont be dumping alkalines in the landfills.. think green, go rechargeable

here is what consumer reports actually said, but if you just read the bold parts, its the meat of the matter
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/10/batteries-that-last-when-you-need-them/index.htm
*"What we found*
*The two lithium models we tested* (Energizer Ultimate Lithium and Energizer Advanced Lithium) *outperformed all of the alkaline batteries*. But alkalines are far less expensive, and several brands came close to the lithiums in performance.
Within the 13 alkaline brands, we saw a fairly wide range of performance, but seven were recommended by Consumer Reports. *The top-scoring alkaline battery model—Duracell Quantum*—was not significantly different from the high-scoring lithium models, and it costs less than half as much. It’s a *cheaper option than lithiums for high-drain situations* (such as often-used flashlights).
*We prefer lithium batteries over alkalines* for hard-to-access or infrequently used devices, because of lithium's higher stability (lower “self-discharge” or power loss over time). *Unlike alkalines, lithium batteries don't contain a corrosive liquid.*
Kirkland Signature batteries were designated a Consumer Reports Best Buy, at 90 cents a pair."

If I did not know better, I would think someone is spamming
<end rantBox>


----------



## jon_slider

LetThereBeLight! said:


> According to a recent Consumer Reports magazine article, the best AAA and best AA batteries are KIRKLAND batteries.
> 
> I ordered mine off of Amazon. And I love 'em.
> 
> - LetThereBeLight!



they did not test Eneloops.. and they said Kirkland was the cheapest, not the best

<begin anti alkaline soapbox>

Kirklands are just some of the cheapest alkalines.. you should not use alkalines unless you replace them frequently. They can corrode and get stuck in the light if stored for longer periods. Especially our new lights with O ring waterproof seals, that cannot let the corrosive gases out. Alkaline is Not recommended.

for about 18 bucks you can have a charger, 4 AAA, and 4AA rechargeable Eneloops.. then you can go to town burning up batteries essentially for free.. and you wont be dumping alkalines in the landfills.. think green, go rechargeable

here is what consumer reports actually said, but if you just read the bold parts, its the meat of the matter
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/10/batteries-that-last-when-you-need-them/index.htm

Direct quote removed. Reference can be made to the report. Could be a copy right issue. Original post saved for the record. Bill

If I did not know better, I would think someone is spamming
<end rantBox>


----------



## GordoJones88

Consumer Reports has a very narrow point of view.


----------



## mzil

Consumer Reports does not accept advertising, nor do they allow their text or findings to be used by advertisers, specifically so they can't be accused of having financial interests or bias in what they review:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/about-us/no-commercial-use-policy/index.htm

This is why some sneaky advertisers sometimes use wordings like " a leading magazine made for consumers found..." because they know they'll get sued if they even attempt to use the magazine's actual name.


----------



## LetThereBeLight!

jon_slider said:


> they did not test Eneloops.. and they said Kirkland was the cheapest, not the best
> 
> <begin anti alkaline soapbox>
> 
> Kirklands are just some of the cheapest alkalines.. you should not use alkalines unless you replace them frequently. They can corrode and get stuck in the light if stored for longer periods. Especially our new lights with O ring waterproof seals, that cannot let the corrosive gases out. Alkaline is Not recommended.
> 
> for about 18 bucks you can have a charger, 4 AAA, and 4AA rechargeable Eneloops.. then you can go to town burning up batteries essentially for free.. and you wont be dumping alkalines in the landfills.. think green, go rechargeable
> 
> here is what consumer reports actually said, but if you just read the bold parts, its the meat of the matter
> http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/10/batteries-that-last-when-you-need-them/index.htm
> Direct quote removed.
> Kirkland Signature batteries were designated a Consumer Reports Best Buy, at 90 cents a pair."
> 
> If I did not know better, I would think someone is spamming
> <end rantBox>




One, the OP asked about alkalines to which I responded. Yet you rant on about lithiums. 

Why, Jon? 

That's been already discussed at length at CPF. 

Two, why did you presume the gentleman has no knowledge of lithium and it's advantages and has read nothing here about that at all?

Three, I dont recall he asked for an alk/lith comparison. Do you?

Moreover, why did you gleefully pounce to pontificate on what the OP did not ask for?

Four, you actually failed to mention the seven of thirteen alkalines CR preferred. Now why would you zealously omit that?

Five, I answered the gentleman's question with the decorum and enthusiasm befitting this site whereas your answer smacked of unsolicited pride, let alone condescension, which I consider the real 'spam' here.

To my mind, Jon, a Gentleman would have seized upon this as an opportunity to start a separate educational thread on the dangers/hazards of alkalines, a topic with which I am familiar, but would have contributed to-- a thread in which you could have 'neatly' positioned your knowledge. Moreover, I guess you also didn't stop to think that I use my alkaline-powered lights frequently and as such my risk of corrosion is minimal to none. 

(Yes, I also own CR123 & 18650-powered lights as well, in other threads I've expressed my disappointment with Eneloops and my preference to retain them for a true SHTF scenario, and for the record, I find my Kirklands to be exceptional performers.)

You know, if I didn't know better, I think someone possesses a haughty attitude. 

Or as someone much wiser than I put it, "Those that think they know it all upset those of us who do!"


- LetThereBeLight!


----------



## Bullzeyebill

Gentlemen, please attack the post, not the poster. Also, it can be considered baiting and flaming, a violation of CPF Rule 4. Any comments re my actions can only be discussed via private message.

Bill


----------



## Lord Flashlight

Finally bought a Thrunite Ti3. 

I have to say I love it. Wondering if I should buy another one. It's on my keys and three light levels are perfect. 

Saw a video on youtube of a guy backing his truck over it about three times and it still worked, that was the deciding factor for having it on my keys as my edc. The fact it's awesome in general is a bonus.


----------



## jon_slider

Lord Flashlight said:


> Finally bought a Thrunite Ti3.



Congratulations! I also really like the levels on the Ti3... did you get aluminum, stainless or titanium?.. did you get cool white or Neutral white.. 

enjoy!


----------



## Lord Flashlight

jon_slider said:


> Congratulations! I also really like the levels on the Ti3... did you get aluminum, stainless or titanium?.. did you get cool white or Neutral white..
> 
> enjoy!



I got cool white which looks ok to me. It was the aluminum one.

Edit: And I got the Ti SS which arrived today. Neutral white and I love this light!!


----------



## 5CardBLAZE

.


Still after all this time, the Klarus Mi X6 is still my Every Day Carry on my keyring.
I've not come up with a better option. [...] but I am tempted by the FourSevens Atom AAF reflector.

Any impressions of the 47s ATOM AAF on keyring yet? ie. does the edge of the head [next to the body, halfway down] ``_catch_`` on anything in the pocket ?


----------



## jon_slider

Lord Flashlight said:


> And I got the Ti SS which arrived today. Neutral white and I love this light!!



Excellent! I really like that knurly silver colored form factor, and the reversible clip works for my baseball cap headlamp option. Warm sounds nice, Enjoy!


----------



## SA Condor

jorn said:


> Some of my aaa lights. Could not find them all in my ehm archive (ther are aaa lights everywhere in my house, in car, at work). Super throwy 3xaaa to super small to the super silly (direct driven 3xaaa xp-g princess light lol) . Got the princess light as a gift. Some friends gave it to me to mock my flashoholism. I just had to mod it to make their grim smile dissapera haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The biggest problem with aaa is they are so darn easy to loose, and so hard to find when lost...



What is the light 3rd from the right with the red band? Thanks!


----------



## more_vampires

Looks like an MBI Torpedo pre-release. Woo!


----------



## markr6

Lord Flashlight said:


> I got cool white which looks ok to me. It was the aluminum one.
> 
> Edit: And I got the Ti SS which arrived today. Neutral white and I love this light!!



Where could I buy one of these in NW?


----------



## SA Condor

more_vampires said:


> Looks like an MBI Torpedo pre-release. Woo!



That's exactly what I'm wondering . . . now waiting for confirmation from jorn!!


----------



## jorn

Yes, it's the mbi torpedo x.


----------



## SA Condor

jorn said:


> Yes, it's the mbi torpedo x.



Very nice! Thanks for the confirmation. I sure hope Guy is able to get these into our hands someday


----------



## MidnightDistortions

I love my Led Lenser T7, even when the batteries are low the light is still usable (at least with the La Crosse cells), even though it's slightly larger than some AAA lights, i find it to be a great AAA light for an EDC.


----------



## SA Condor

For the longest time I wanted to EDC a light. I'd try and then quit. But then I found Maratac AAA and I was sold! It's been clipped to my pocket ever since. And now I have others incoming . . . it's a plague!


----------



## Lord Flashlight

markr6 said:


> Where could I buy one of these in NW?



From amazon is where I got it.

It's now found it's permanent home in the right side pocket of my wested IJ Raiders jacket. For those times when I may be parted from my keys.

Took another pic. Side by side. 






Wondering if I should buy another. Still really liking them as EDC. Thrunite have a tendency to bring out new stuff, and not keep producing the old, which is sometimes better.


----------



## jon_slider

Lord Flashlight said:


> Wondering if I should buy another.



You have 2 Thrunites with .04-12-120 modes already, enjoy them! Try an Olight i3s for a change. The 20-85-.5 modes have some advantages imo. For example, the .5 sees more use in my world than .04. I also like that the Olight turns on at 20 lumens, which is very practical in a majority of situations. By contrast the Thrunite always comes on at .04 first, so I have to turn it on twice the majority of the time, to get a useful mode, and then the 12 lumens tend to be slightly too low if there is any ambient light.

Im a BIG fan of the Olight threads, possibly the best action of ANY AAA Ive tried, including Maratacs.

The Olight ONLY comes in Aluminum, which make is lighter weight than copper or stainless options.

I carry an Olight i3s modded to high CRI 3000k XPL, it has NO PWM. I also have a Maratac modded to high CRI 3000k XPG, to get rid of the native PWM it has a Thrunite driver. I also tried a Maratac with Thrunite driver and N219b, sold it right away because I found the tint too blue, but people into brightness over CRI will like it.. I prefer the Olight. PM me if you want more details on modders Ive used.

I dislike the maratac pocket clip because it interferes with tailstanding when the clip is reversed for use on a hat, the Olight pocket clip works great! I do really like the Thrunite knurling, and its pocket clip is also excellent for hat use, without interfering with tailstanding. I prefer the Thrunite body to the Maratac, because the Maratac gets very narrow in the body, while the Thrunite is a better form factor in hand.

fwiw, my personal preference is to very warm tints, very high CRI, and I REQUIRE that the light work with a reversed pocket clip, AND be able to tailstand.

the best buy to meet my personal preferences, in an off the shelf light with no mods, is the L3 Illumination L08. Its a bit large compared to my Olight, Thrunite, and Maratac, but the 4 mode (.09-3-30-90) L08 has Great modes, and comes with N219a, which is a favorite of mine.


----------



## uofaengr

That Thrunite above looks eerily similar to the Maratac lol. 

The copper Maratac awoke me from a 3 or 4 year slumber I'd been in regarding the flashlight world leading to a torrid pace of acquiring new lights and other goodies over the past few months. However, when I became introduced to neutral tints and hi CRI, the Maratac didn't do it for me anymore. I sold it and gladly gave up a little brightness for the beauty below. Been carrying it pretty much exclusively since I got it, really nice with 10440, but it seems the patina is coming on much more slowly than the Maratac. Just gotta be patient. [emoji4] 

I really like this little light.


----------



## Kamerat

jon_slider said:


> Yes, but, the pill depth is different and there is some Fantasy wobble that requires using the O ring. The Prometheus body wont light the Maratac head. BUT, the Maratac body DOES light the Prometheus head. I LOVE the high CRI!!! Love the smaller size, Love saving the 13 grams extra weight. Love the pocket clip option. So, until I hear from Vinh on modding the Maratac head to a High CRI no PWM.. Ive got a work in process, proof of concept, Rocking!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can currently buy both the Prometheus and the Maratac, thats how I fullfilled my Fantasy .. Still amazed at how the colors PoP! with high CRI
> 
> Anyone interested in a Fantasy conversation, PM me, I will be happy to share info. My next Fantasy is a light weight high Cri Cu aaa with no PWM, and a hot blonde brunette to turn it on.
> 
> Gotta Love a High CRI aaa Today!
> 
> more of my newbie rants and raves:
> First Impressions Prometheus Beta
> First impressions, Maratac Rev3 aaa Copper



Thank you! The Maratac body with the Prometheus head is great! One cannot buy a better general/edc aaa high cri light today.


----------



## jon_slider




----------



## jon_slider

Kamerat said:


> Thank you! The Maratac body with the Prometheus head is great! One cannot buy a better general/edc aaa high cri light today.


I agree it is a best combo in Copper with high CRI.

some pros and cons about other factors
the maratac body is less comfortable to hold than the Thrunite body, but there is no copper thrunite
the prometheus head is beautiful, and the tint and CRI is outstanding! but it uses PWM, so does the Maratac. The prometheus body does not accept a reverse pocket clip, the maratac and thrunite do.
The Beta weighs 48 grams with an eneloop, it is the heaviest and longest. The QR is outstanding. And it is Very comfortable in hand.
The Maratac weighs 36 grams with an eneloop, it is the second heaviest, and the shortest and least comfortable in hand.
The Thrunite in Titanium weighs 28 grams with an eneloop, its the lightest option in non aluminum, but it is unacceptable to use with a titanium head due to terrible threads. The good news is a Beta head and a Maratac head, both fit the Thrunite body.
Only the Beta comes in High CRI, the others must be custom LED swapped to get there.
Getting a high CRI No PWM model can only be had off the shelf with the L08
etc..

people have different use patterns
my current carry option lets me clip a light to my keys, or unclip it quickly and clip the light to my hat, or tailstand it.
Lately I put the Olight in my shirt pocket, not on my keys.. I really like the hands free option to clip a light to my hat, it is a primary requirement for me, which is why the Beta is no longer in my rotation, even though it started my Love of high CRI and I have nothing but respect for the quality of the light.

in this pic 




is a stock titanium thrunite, rated 162 lumen on high. I use it if I need really bright, and dont care about tint
the Maratac is modded to a thrunite driver, to get rid of the PWM, PLUS the led is swapped to high CRI XPG
the Olight has stock no PWM driver, modded to high CRI XPL

the shortest path to a no Pwm high CRI light among those 3, is to swap the LED in an Olight or a thrunite, since they dont need driver swaps to eliminate PWM. The maratac needs a driver swap, and the thrunite driver is the only one that fits. I prefer the Olight driver, so modding an i3s to high CRI, would be my preference overall. I like XPG high CRI which is 3000k or N219a which is 4500k


----------



## jorn

The maratac aaa cu rev 2 have no pwm. I put a xp-g2 in mine and use a 10440 
2 mode lo-hi, good knurling, no pwm. Love it.
If you can find a rev 2 cu, buy it.


----------



## Lord Flashlight

jon_slider said:


> Try an Olight i3s for a change.



I might do that, thanks.


----------



## magellan

Here are a few of mine. I have a couple dozen different AAA lights, but here are some very similar ones. From the left, a Maratac Copper Rev. 1, two Maratac Copper Rev. 3, two Maratac stainless. The one on the far right is a Thrunite TiS flamed titanium and takes a 10440.


----------



## AMD64Blondie

I sure love my Peak Eiger high CRI.

(mine's brass..)


----------



## TheShadowGuy

magellan said:


> Here are a few of mine. I have a couple dozen different AAA lights, but here are some very similar ones. From the left, a Maratac Copper Rev. 1, two Maratac Copper Rev. 3, two Maratac stainless. The one on the far right is a Thrunite TiS flamed titanium and takes a 10440.


That is a most beautiful rainbow. 

I've got a Thrunite Ti3 and it really impresses the uninitiated who are used to the old Xenon Maglite Solitaires or the little sub-$1 LED ones used for advertising.  It's a shame that the clip's finish is wearing off though.


----------



## ForrestChump

Not getting much love in the my specific thread. A quick inquiry if I may, anyone over here rocking the new SL ProTac 1AAA 70 lumen yet?


----------



## magellan

TheShadowGuy said:


> That is a most beautiful rainbow.
> 
> I've got a Thrunite Ti3 and it really impresses the uninitiated who are used to the old Xenon Maglite Solitaires or the little sub-$1 LED ones used for advertising.  It's a shame that the clip's finish is wearing off though.



I like your idea of a rainbow!

I really like my little Thrunite AAA lights. They would sure be impressive to someone who doesn't know about current lights. I must try a Ti3 soon.

The flamed titanium model in my photo on the far right was modded by Vinh and now puts out over 700 lumens on high on a 10440 lithium ion battery. It heats up pretty fast, maybe 30 seconds and I have to turn it off, but still, 700 lumens from such a small light is ridiculous.


----------



## jon_slider

magellan said:


> 700 lumens from such a small light is ridiculous.



Congrats on the pocket rocket!




Bigwilly said:


> Ok so wow is 1. This light is freaking bright and 2. This light gets freaking hot. I mean 20 seconds and it could cook an egg.





Bigwilly said:


> Is there anything to do to manage heat? I mean it's amost unusable.



With DriverVN you can have Wow, plus useable modes: 

as long as you're OK with Cool White and low CRI:



vinhnguyen54 said:


> Nichia 219 is not an option for single mode. The LED can't take this much current.


----------



## SA Condor

I have 5  AAA lights incoming! Plus another couple possible lights in the near future. So my question for you guys with a decent sized AAA flashlight collection is . . . 

How ow do you store your lights? Or in what do you store your lights?


----------



## ForrestChump

SA Condor said:


> I have 5  AAA lights incoming! Plus another couple possible lights in the near future. So my question for you guys with a decent sized AAA flashlight collection is . . .
> 
> How ow do you store your lights? Or in what do you store your lights?



I store mine in my pocket.

If you have more than a pockets worth: check this out.


----------



## SA Condor

The pelican case solution could work, although I'm looking more for a soft case solution to show my AAAs some love!


----------



## jon_slider

SA Condor said:


> a soft case solution to show my AAAs some love!


Folding-Pocket-Knife-Storage-Display-Case-Collection-Holder-Black-Red


----------



## ForrestChump

jon_slider said:


> Folding-Pocket-Knife-Storage-Display-Case-Collection-Holder-Black-Red
> \



Yeah, that was my second thought, knife roll.


----------



## more_vampires

My Bailey's Ultra Light Packer hat rolls up and clips around itself. In this config, it stashes many (3-6+) AAA lights, spare batteries, and an LED glow stick.


----------



## jds1

SA Condor said:


> How ow do you store your lights? Or in what do you store your lights?



Made for shotgun shells, but perfect for small lights.






Jeff


----------



## more_vampires

jds1 said:


> Made for shotgun shells, but perfect for small lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff


Very nice, I must begin doing this!


----------



## SA Condor

jds1 said:


> Made for shotgun shells, but perfect for small lights.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff



I like that! That looks to be about the perfect size for my small group of lights. What's the brand?


----------



## markr6

jds1 said:


> Made for shotgun shells, but perfect for small lights.



Pretty slick! I assume it has the little dividers between each light (shell)?


----------



## jon_slider

jds1 said:


> Made for shotgun shells, but perfect for small lights.


 great idea! just ordered one of these
Enhanced Nylon Shotgun Shell Pouch - Choice Of Black, Olive Drab, Woodland Camo


----------



## jds1

markr6 said:


> Pretty slick! I assume it has the little dividers between each light (shell)?



Yep, five slots no rubbing!

Jeff


----------



## SA Condor

jds1 said:


> Yep, five slots no rubbing!
> 
> Jeff



What brand/model do you have? I've been searching Amazon, but I can't seem to find one with only 5 slots and with the Velcro.


----------



## jds1

SA Condor said:


> I like that! That looks to be about the perfect size for my small group of lights. What's the brand?



This one is a "no brand" cheapie from the surplus store, but they are easy to find.

Jeff


----------



## SA Condor

jds1 said:


> This one is a "no brand" cheapie from the surplus store, but they are easy to find.
> 
> Jeff



Ok, thanks. There aren't any surplus stores here in Bolivia! My internet search continues


----------



## jds1

SA Condor said:


> Ok, thanks. There aren't any surplus stores here in Bolivia! My internet search continues



Good luck! 

Jeff


----------



## more_vampires

Lol, just had an idea for AAA lights. .410 shotshell bandolier. Turn them all on.


----------



## phosphor22

AAA light fan here--
Just love the ThruNite TiS NW that I recently got - the tint is fabulous and am currently trying to decide on either this as my holiday gift to a handful of people or the Atom A0 which I love too -- but the tint on the TiS is lovely. The sub-lumen and the 12 lm low mode are what I mostly use anyway. The stainless steel has a very nice heft and feel in the hand.



Lord Flashlight said:


> From amazon is where I got it.
> 
> It's now found it's permanent home in the right side pocket of my wested IJ Raiders jacket. For those times when I may be parted from my keys.
> 
> Took another pic. Side by side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering if I should buy another. Still really liking them as EDC. Thrunite have a tendency to bring out new stuff, and not keep producing the old, which is sometimes better.


----------



## phosphor22

Wondered whether or not anyone has tried to heat colorize the CPF Nichia Atom A0 - I understand that it would demagnetize the tail magnet but I would not care - I have sanded one that I have to a fine satin finish, which I like. The engraving is lighter but readable and a little more refined in appearance.


----------



## Toolboxkid

uofaengr said:


> That Thrunite above looks eerily similar to the Maratac lol.
> 
> The copper Maratac awoke me from a 3 or 4 year slumber I'd been in regarding the flashlight world leading to a torrid pace of acquiring new lights and other goodies over the past few months. However, when I became introduced to neutral tints and hi CRI, the Maratac didn't do it for me anymore. I sold it and gladly gave up a little brightness for the beauty below. Been carrying it pretty much exclusively since I got it, really nice with 10440, but it seems the patina is coming on much more slowly than the Maratac. Just gotta be patient. [emoji4]
> 
> I really like this little light.



So you don't have any trouble running the beta on 10440's? I have one inbound and was trying to figure out if this was ok to use li-ions or if I would be confined to eneloops.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## uofaengr

Toolboxkid said:


> So you don't have any trouble running the beta on 10440's? I have one inbound and was trying to figure out if this was ok to use li-ions or if I would be confined to eneloops.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


I can't say that it's "ok" to do it since Prometheus doesn't recommend it, but I do it. I just try to be smart about it although it rarely gets used on high anyway.


----------



## Toolboxkid

uofaengr said:


> I can't say that it's "ok" to do it since Prometheus doesn't recommend it, but I do it. I just try to be smart about it although it rarely gets used on high anyway.



Thanks for the reply. I use them in all my non 10440 lights and have never had a problem. Just didn't want to fry it instantly as I'm really looking forward to this light.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


----------



## yoyoman

Some new ones, so gathered them for an updated family picture. 





Cockroaches at the left. I couldn't get the new additions to the torture test. I also can't get the Streamlight AAA ProTac (at a reasonable cost in Europe). SF Titan (not the plus) seems robust and reliable so far. The 47s Revo is a classic - neutral tint, nice SS knurling and good regulation. The real DQG reverse clicky is small and regulated. The Tains are beautiful and V2 is always in my pocket. The EagleTac is the Nichia version with a nice tint. The clip is big, but it stops it from rolling, is fine in my hand and is easy to clip on the thick fabric of my Filson bag. The Rayus from IS has the XP-G2 (not the Nichia) and was inexpensive and seems robust so far. 

Very difficult not to love AAA lights these days.


----------



## magellan

Nice line up there!

I've ended up buying almost as many once I appreciated how good even the production AAA's had become. 

Of course, AAA lights like the Tain Ottavino, LF2XT, ARC, Mako, etc., are in a class by themselves. Even the recent CPF 15 yr. anniversary light (which I just received and have already played with a bit) is pretty cool.

What is a cockroach?


----------



## magellan

phosphor22 said:


> Wondered whether or not anyone has tried to heat colorize the CPF Nichia Atom A0 - I understand that it would demagnetize the tail magnet but I would not care - I have sanded one that I have to a fine satin finish, which I like. The engraving is lighter but readable and a little more refined in appearance.



It depends on whether the Curie point is reached, which for iron is only about 1040 degrees F, which isn't that high actually.


----------



## magellan

more_vampires said:


> Lol, just had an idea for AAA lights. .410 shotshell bandolier. Turn them all on.



Ha-ha. That would work!

Speaking of shot shell lights I have three in different colors but they are CR2 size.


----------



## yoyoman

It is very difficult to kill a cockroach. See the thread about torture tests. Thrown against a concrete wall, run over by a SUV, overnight in the freezer, etc. and they keep working.

Someone asked for a picture of the McGizmo Sapphire, Tain Ottavino V1 and V2


----------



## magellan

Ahh. I see. LOL


----------



## phosphor22

Forgot to mention that this is the all titanium A0 --


----------



## phosphor22

magellan said:


> It depends on whether the Curie point is reached, which for iron is only about 1040 degrees F, which isn't that high actually.


 I forgot to include the quote in reference to the question about heat colorizing the titanium A0


----------



## recDNA

How about an inexpensive (less than $40) light weight aluminum flashlight with an eyelet that is either single mode or starts at highest output with alkaline battery 100 lumens+ or as close as possible?


----------



## kreisl

1xAAA, xp-g2, stainless, 33 grams, 3-part, 1-mode, 100lm+






incoming.


----------



## yoyoman

I think the Streamlight ProTac AAA with 10 tap programming can be set up to high single mode.


----------



## magellan

kreisl said:


> 1xAAA, xp-g2, stainless, 33 grams, 3-part, 1-mode, 100lm+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> incoming.



Nice. What is that?


----------



## magellan

phosphor22 said:


> I forgot to include the quote in reference to the question about heat colorizing the titanium A0



Okay. The tail magnet is probably a small neodymium one. Don't know what the Curie point on that is.


----------



## recDNA

kreisl said:


> 1xAAA, xp-g2, stainless, 33 grams, 3-part, 1-mode, 100lm+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> incoming.


Well....what is it? And that is with NiMH? I don't use 10440.
Thanks!


----------



## recDNA

yoyoman said:


> I think the Streamlight ProTac AAA with 10 tap programming can be set up to high single mode.


Really nice flashlight but too big for keyring.


----------



## ForrestChump

yoyoman said:


> I think the Streamlight ProTac AAA with 10 tap programming can be set up to high single mode.



+ 1

Totally amazed this light has gained such little attention. @ $30m and a nice build / UI & AWESOME beam profile ( Mines cool / neutral tint ) Im surprised it isn't mentioned more.

Definitely not a keychain light, but makes a perfect a _very_ pocket friendly EDC...


----------



## LedTed

ForrestChump said:


> Yeah, that was my second thought, knife roll.




Or Google, "United Cutlery Storage Case".


----------



## PandaLight

I'm gona go against the grain and say that I hate AAAs. The batteries are the same price as AA but, less capacity and discharge capability. Occasionally, they are more expensive...


----------



## mzil

If they made AA flashlights that were the same compact size as AAA flashlights or even smaller, then I don't think anyone here would have any interest in single AAA designs. This of course will never happen though.


----------



## vulpes

My first proper flashlight was Tank007 E09. After more than a year of daily pocket carry looks and works great.
But since I have recently discovered power of 18650 lights (BLF A6), it has been retired.
I will probably get some 10440 compatible clicky just to show off.  (E09 impressed most of my friend first time they saw it)


----------



## leon2245

PandaLight said:


> I'm gona go against the grain and say that I hate AAAs. The batteries are the same price as AA but, less capacity and discharge capability. Occasionally, they are more expensive...




That's me. My battery of choice is the energizer L91 lithium primary AA. Given the only lights with my preferred combination of features are Aaa's, I hated the fact that the L92 aaa equivalent not only cost more, but also had only a third of the capacity. 

I've since resolved it, kind of, after begrudgingly moving to rechargeables, and almost exclusively Aaa's. If money wasn't a factor, I'd use nothing But lithium primaries, and wouldn't care about mah per dollar etc.


----------



## kreisl

magellan said:


> Nice. What is that?





recDNA said:


> Well....what is it? And that is with NiMH? I don't use 10440.


It's an unbranded keychain light which i found in the storefront of EDCGear. One can google < xpg x2 flashlight > and find several offers, probably by the same factory seller. Gearbest has it currently for 8 bucks  shipped, so let me try first before you bite too


----------



## kaichu dento

PandaLight said:


> I'm gona go against the grain and say that I hate AAAs. The batteries are the same price as AA but, less capacity and discharge capability. Occasionally, they are more expensive...


That's what I hate about sport cars, they cost more than a truck but don't hold as much. 

News flash; the thing people like about small lights is that they're small. We AAA light fans all happen to have larger lights too. Ones with higher output, runtime, and less expensive. But they're bigger. Go figure.


----------



## magellan

Yes. I have plenty of big, impressive photon blasters, which range from 3000 lumens all the way up to 15,000 and 20,000 lumens for the biggest two and can light up a whole football field. They're just not as EDC-able or as cute as the many AAA and smaller lights that I have.


----------



## recDNA

kreisl said:


> It's an unbranded keychain light which i found in the storefront of EDCGear. One can google < xpg x2 flashlight > and find several offers, probably by the same factory seller. Gearbest has it currently for 8 bucks  shipped, so let me try first before you bite too


Thanks. I found it. Based on the source and branding and claimed runtime I don't think the 105 lumens is likely to be accurate. Maybe 60 lumens. Maybe I'm just a pessimist.


----------



## holygeez03

I have been searching for another AAA light to add the the collection for a long time... finally decided to try the UltraTac K18 with a 10440... I really like it and started another thread for it. Also, candle lamp recently wrote a detailed review on it here...

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?408469-Ultratac-K18-%28XP-G2-S2-1xAAA-Ni-MH-Alkaline-Li-ion%29-Review


----------



## TheShadowGuy

recDNA said:


> Thanks. I found it. Based on the source and branding and claimed runtime I don't think the 105 lumens is likely to be accurate. Maybe 60 lumens. Maybe I'm just a pessimist.



Still a lot brighter than a Maglite Solitaire. 
Getting over 100 lumens on a AAA isn't too unusual these days though, which is pretty impressive.


----------



## jon_slider

holygeez03 said:


> detailed review on it here...


thanks for the review link 
that aaa light is officially LiIon compatible, which is rare, the only others I can think of are the Eagletac D25 and the Peak Eiger, both of which offer a high CRI Nichia LED

It uses PWM..
There are very few aaa lights I can think of that are Current Controlled.. Thrunite, Fenix, and Olight are the ones I can remember atm, only the Thrunite offers NW tint.

my high cri no pwm fantasy light would be an Olight i3s with N219a


----------



## recDNA

TheShadowGuy said:


> Still a lot brighter than a Maglite Solitaire.
> Getting over 100 lumens on a AAA isn't too unusual these days though, which is pretty impressive.


Maybe on a NiMH but I don't think an alkaleak will do it. I would buy it if a local retailer sold it. I haven't got the patience to wait for overseas delivery and if broken it is a pita to send back.


----------



## Lumencrazy

recDNA said:


> Maybe on a NiMH but I don't think an alkaleak will do it. I would buy it if a local retailer sold it. I haven't got the patience to wait for overseas delivery and if broken it is a pita to send back.



I don’t understand why experienced flashoholics are still have problems with leaking alkaline batteries. What are you guys buying and then what are you doing with them? They usually leak only if you over deplete them. At about 0.8 volts the batteries can begin to create extensive gassing causing pressure which can rupture the seal thereby causing leakage. The science is well known and understood. With the new Duracell and etc. you really have to try. Possibly we are overdriving them with our super-lumen retina-destroyers and in the process overdraining them which can cause leakage at the anode.


----------



## parnass

Lumencrazy said:


> I don’t understand why experienced flashoholics are still have problems with leaking alkaline batteries. ... They usually leak only if you over deplete them.....



Alkaline batteries can leak under a variety of circumstances. I've seen them leak when brand new, still in their plastic blister package.


----------



## MidnightDistortions

Lumencrazy said:


> I don’t understand why experienced flashoholics are still have problems with leaking alkaline batteries. What are you guys buying and then what are you doing with them? They usually leak only if you over deplete them. At about 0.8 volts the batteries can begin to create extensive gassing causing pressure which can rupture the seal thereby causing leakage. The science is well known and understood. With the new Duracell and etc. you really have to try. Possibly we are overdriving them with our super-lumen retina-destroyers and in the process overdraining them which can cause leakage at the anode.



I've been using the rest of my alkaleaks in an 8 AA to 9 volt adapter which is hooked up to this black and decker pest repeller and most of them are fine but there's a couple that have been driven into cell reversal that are corroding/leaking. But i knew that would happen, nothing of value is getting ruined. I have some alkaline cells which actually corroded, almost like they rusted on the negative terminals just from sitting.

I also had an AAA Duracell dated 2017 which the negative side had a bit of leakage, not enough to really worry and it worked ok, never stored it out of the flashlight either. With Eneloops, i don't really see the need to buy alkalines anymore. In fact i got some real D NiMH cells in which i don't really need alkaline cells, period. Even 9 volt NiMH cells. I don't need or use C cells either.


----------



## holygeez03

This thread is getting very off topic... but yeah, with so many other options (NiMH, lithium, li-ion) that are better than alkalines in almost every way, why would anyone risk a nice light with an alkaline battery (except in emergencies)... 

OM, back on topic... Still loving my Ultratac K18 w/10440... if it had one more level, preferably a sub-level rom Low, around 1 lumen, and a neutral emitter, it would be the perfect AAA format light for me... assuming it holds up, of course. But the size, output, and beam profile are great, and at least the tint is pretty close to white and not very blue.

Now I just need to find a small storage tube... like a pill holder... that will properly store a spare 10440 or AAA on my keyring. Any ideas?


----------



## recDNA

MidnightDistortions said:


> I've been using the rest of my alkaleaks in an 8 AA to 9 volt adapter which is hooked up to this black and decker pest repeller and most of them are fine but there's a couple that have been driven into cell reversal that are corroding/leaking. But i knew that would happen, nothing of value is getting ruined. I have some alkaline cells which actually corroded, almost like they rusted on the negative terminals just from sitting.
> 
> I also had an AAA Duracell dated 2017 which the negative side had a bit of leakage, not enough to really worry and it worked ok, never stored it out of the flashlight either. With Eneloops, i don't really see the need to buy alkalines anymore. In fact i got some real D NiMH cells in which i don't really need alkaline cells, period. Even 9 volt NiMH cells. I don't need or use C cells either.


I can't find a good cheap NiMH charger. Maha are expensive and 8% of reviews on Amazon claim overheating while charging. The Duracell charger I have also gets hot.


----------



## Monocrom

parnass said:


> Alkaline batteries can leak under a variety of circumstances. I've seen them leak when brand new, still in their plastic blister package.




+1

Alkaline technology is not just horribly outdated but **** poor as well. Even the so-called best ones leak when new as well.

*Edit:* 
They are still made and sold because the masses don't know any better, and still spend their money on alkalines. When the masses continually buy a product, even a **** poor one, that product will be made in huge quantities for countless years.


----------



## MidnightDistortions

recDNA said:


> I can't find a good cheap NiMH charger. Maha are expensive and 8% of reviews on Amazon claim overheating while charging. The Duracell charger I have also gets hot.



The BQ-CC17 i have found to be the cheapest http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## jon_slider

Monocrom said:


> They are still made and sold because the masses don't know any better



so true, also why so many people buy cool white, low CRI and PWM lights, that represent the vast majority of lights offered and sold.



MidnightDistortions said:


> The BQ-CC17



I also use that charger and it works fine.


----------



## Lumencrazy

MidnightDistortions said:


> The BQ-CC17 i have found to be the cheapest http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/?tag=cpf0b6-20



There was a time when these charger packages had the older gen. 3 batteries included with them (hence the low cost). Is this still the case?


----------



## Lumencrazy

Monocrom said:


> +1
> 
> Alkaline technology is not just horribly outdated but **** poor as well. Even the so-called best ones leak when new as well.
> 
> *Edit:*
> They are still made and sold because the masses don't know any better, and still spend their money on alkalines. When the masses continually buy a product, even a **** poor one, that product will be made in huge quantities for countless years.



Sounds personal.


----------



## recDNA

Lumencrazy said:


> There was a time when these charger packages had the older gen. 3 batteries included with them (hence the low cost). Is this still the case?


Yup


----------



## KITROBASKIN

holygeez03 said:


> Now I just need to find a small storage tube... like a pill holder... that will properly store a spare 10440 or AAA on my keyring. Any ideas?



countycomm website has delrin battery cases; get a small bit of foam

matchboxinstruments sells (at times) a nice charger/storage/nano flashlight device that I also use. 'The guy with no name' usually sells out quickly, so you kind of need to watch his CPF threads.

an additional AAA flashlight can also be used as 'storage' as well.

Happy Hunting


----------



## KITROBASKIN

Another USA made storage solution is Gus Made. The bomb-proof stainless steel pill fobs 'original' will fit my 10440 Soshine and Efest.


----------



## mzil

KITROBASKIN said:


> an additional AAA flashlight can also be used as 'storage' as well


This makes the most sense because besides getting a keychain carried, waterproof, single AAA battery holder you also are adding a back up flashlight to your arsenal..."One is none, two is one." as they say.

The batteries supplied in recent Panasonic chargers are fourth gen, 2100 cycles LSD Ni-MH, according to the first review at the Amazon link.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## holygeez03

I saw the countrycomm delrin case... it looks perfect... EXCEPT shipping is $15!!!


----------



## Monocrom

Lumencrazy said:


> Sounds personal.




Not at all.

Just involves a deep understanding of how the chemistry of alkalines works. And more importantly, how it doesn't. An alkaline can leak just sitting in a drawer for a few days. No one has to do anything to it. No has to abuse it or thrash it. It's like that ex-girlfriend who is drop-dead gorgeous with a Super model's body. And maybe she's fine most of the time.... But you know she turns into a horrible mean drunk when she has even a bit of booze. Worse yet, she doesn't think she has a problem. Yeah.... In a pinch, you can go out with her; reconnect. Just don't forget the major issue with her. Same thing with alkalines. If your light dies, you're a bit far from home; sure you can get a couple of alkies at 7-11 and keep going for the rest of the day. When you get home, you swap it out. Who wants to take the risk that their favorite light might get destroyed because the cheap battery in it leaked.


----------



## Monocrom

KITROBASKIN said:


> An additional AAA flashlight can also be used as 'storage' as well.
> 
> Happy Hunting



That's my favorite solution. Especially if you get a higher-end single-AAA light (maybe on a keychain), then a less expensive 2AAA penlight that you don't really reach for.... Now you have two reloads for your favorite keychain light. Just use the penlight's clip to carry that around. In a pinch, use the penlight as a loaner light if someone asks to borrow a light. They get the cheaper penlight. You get to keep your higher quality lights on you.


----------



## Monocrom

holygeez03 said:


> I saw the countrycomm delrin case... it looks perfect... EXCEPT shipping is $15!!!



Yeah.... I buy from C.C. usually just a couple of times a year. I wait until I can get numerous items all at once, then always put in a big bulk order. That way the shipping charges make more sense.


----------



## OCD

holygeez03 said:


> This thread is getting very off topic... but yeah, with so many other options (NiMH, lithium, li-ion) that are better than alkalines in almost every way, why would anyone risk a nice light with an alkaline battery (except in emergencies)...
> 
> OM, back on topic... Still loving my Ultratac K18 w/10440... if it had one more level, preferably a sub-level rom Low, around 1 lumen, and a neutral emitter, it would be the perfect AAA format light for me... assuming it holds up, of course. But the size, output, and beam profile are great, and at least the tint is pretty close to white and not very blue
> 
> Now I just need to find a small storage tube... like a pill holder... that will properly store a spare 10440 or AAA on my keyring. Any ideas?



http://www.cvs.com/shop/home-health...cessories/cvs-compact-pill-caddy-skuid-715080

This is what I use. Holds my Duraloops perfectly, with a little extra length to add some foam to prevent rattle or shorting. I bought 2 but gave one to my dad when he needed something to actually carry some medicine in. I think he now uses it for a spare battery carrier also as he no longer needs the meds.


----------



## jon_slider

KITROBASKIN said:


> an additional AAA flashlight can also be used as 'storage' as well.



great idea. If stainless is desired, the Thrunite Ti Stainless is similar in weight to the Gus Original. 

I carry a Maratac aaa copper. My backup batteries are in an Olight i3s and a Thrunite Titanium Christmas both of which are about half the weight of stainless.

Im very weight conscious, so fwiw, an aaa Ultimate Lithium weighs half as much as an aaa Eneloop. I carry spare last resort Lithium Primaries sealed in a Boba Straw using a lighter. They also fit in a pill bottle.

I also sewed dividers into a small zippered cloth pouch, that keeps my lights from bumping into each other.














OCD said:


> http://www.cvs.com/shop/home-health...cessories/cvs-compact-pill-caddy-skuid-715080
> 
> This is what I use.



excellent option, thanks for the link


----------



## recDNA

mzil said:


> This makes the most sense because besides getting a keychain carried, waterproof, single AAA battery holder you also are adding a back up flashlight to your arsenal..."One is none, two is one." as they say.
> 
> The batteries supplied in recent Panasonic chargers are fourth gen, 2100 cycles LSD Ni-MH, according to the first review at the Amazon link.
> http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-Advanced-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk


Read the 1 star reviews. Lots and lots say batteries were useless after just a couple of cycles.


----------



## jon_slider

recDNA said:


> Read the 1 star reviews. Lots and lots say batteries were useless after just a couple of cycles.



I have had no problem with the free batteries that came with the inexpensive charger. You could also buy newer batteries if you dont like free.


----------



## mzil

recDNA said:


> Read the 1 star reviews. Lots and lots say batteries were useless after just a couple of cycles.


Then people would have the exact same problem with the batteries when bought ala cart since they are (nowadays) literally the same batteries. 

94% of the over 900 reviews rank the product as either a 4 star or 5 star rating, so most seem happy:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## phosphor22

In reply to:


magellan said:


> Okay. The tail magnet is probably a small neodymium one. Don't know what the Curie point on that is.



Thanks Magellan! If I try the heat coloring the Atom A0 titanium, and it turns out well I'll put a photo up -


----------



## holygeez03

I've been meaning to get to CVS/Walgreen's to check and see if a pill holder will suffice... If not, countrycomm has agreed to ship one of their delrin lockers for $4.50 USPS.


----------



## jon_slider

holygeez03 said:


> I've been meaning to get to CVS/Walgreen's to check and see if a pill holder will suffice



I just went to 2 CVS and bought the last pill jar from each of them. I threw out the packaging and receipt as I left the store.

I got home and NEITHER my Eneloop AAA, NOR my Ultimate Lithium AAA fit in the two holders. I just wasted $11 plus a bunch of time and gas.

Not sure why people say these work, maybe they changed.

Moral of the story, bring a battery to the store, dont buy the pill holder if the battery does not fit.

as far as Im concerned, this is one more example of BAD INTERNET ADVICE…. none too happy, but, its my own darn fault I trusted the earlier posts and did not verify before tossing paperwork..

fwiw, the CVS aluminum holder weighs 8 grams. Basically the same weight as the Delrin lockers.. Knowing what you know now, buy the Delrin, forget the CVS pill holder.


----------



## holygeez03

I wish I could have saved YOU the hassle... as I also found out today that the CVS Pill Caddy does not fit a AAA battery... it is very close to fitting perfect... the pill caddy felt plastic to me, with a shiny silver paint, but I could be wrong. I am guessing that there are different version floating around CVS out there, or the product has changed from an older design.

Luckily I kept my packaging and receipt and will be returning it... Unless I decide on another use for it.


----------



## mzil

4 AAA can be carried in a Tic Tac box, in a zigzag alignment (the cylinders are staggered, not in line) and I show how to easily add a keyring attachment to one at 6m30s into this video:


Tic Tac boxes can also carry 3xAA batteries or a combo of the two, such as 3xAAA + 1xAA (tightly) or 1xAAA + 2xAA.


----------



## desmobob

F250XLT said:


> I love that more powerful and efficient AAA's are available.....It's nice to be able to EDC such a small light, and still have it do most everything you need. Here are the two I pocketed today, are you carrying one now?



I recently lost my left front pocket carry items: a Fenix LDO1 and Leatherman Style PS connected together. :-( 
I ordered another Style PS and was unsure of what AAA light to try. I have an Olight i3S on the way for starters. I was hesitant to spend the "big money" for another Fenix LDO1. If I don't like the cheaper choice, I guess I'll end up with another high-end AAA light anyway.

Take it easy,
Bob


----------



## Duramarks

The olight i3s is awesome. I've been carrying mine for a while with a 10440. I love it


----------



## OCD

jon_slider said:


> I just went to 2 CVS and bought the last pill jar from each of them. I threw out the packaging and receipt as I left the store.
> 
> I got home and NEITHER my Eneloop AAA, NOR my Ultimate Lithium AAA fit in the two holders. I just wasted $11 plus a bunch of time and gas.
> 
> Not sure why people say these work, maybe they changed.
> 
> Moral of the story, bring a battery to the store, dont buy the pill holder if the battery does not fit.
> 
> as far as Im concerned, this is one more example of BAD INTERNET ADVICE…. none too happy, but, its my own darn fault I trusted the earlier posts and did not verify before tossing paperwork..
> 
> fwiw, the CVS aluminum holder weighs 8 grams. Basically the same weight as the Delrin lockers.. Knowing what you know now, buy the Delrin, forget the CVS pill holder.



Bad internet advice, huh? Not sure why people would say these would work? Hmmmmmm....let me think.....wait...I got it. Because they worked for me when I bought mine. I never said they fit evey 10440 sized cell out there, only that mine fit MY Duraloops. Sorry the manufacturer must have changed the design (or maybe CVS changed manufacturer) and they didn't work for you, but I don't appreciate the insinuation of giving "bad internet advice". Simply letting others know they no longer fit AAA cells would suffice.


----------



## magellan

Duramarks said:


> The olight i3s is awesome. I've been carrying mine for a while with a 10440. I love it



Yowser, are you sure about that?


----------



## Duramarks

magellan said:


> Yowser, are you sure about that?


Sure about what?


----------



## KeepingItLight

jon_slider said:


> I just went to 2 CVS and bought the last pill jar from each of them. I threw out the packaging and receipt as I left the store.
> 
> I got home and NEITHER my Eneloop AAA, NOR my Ultimate Lithium AAA fit in the two holders. I just wasted $11 plus a bunch of time and gas.
> 
> Not sure why people say these work, maybe they changed.
> 
> Moral of the story, bring a battery to the store, dont buy the pill holder if the battery does not fit.



Bummer! Thanks, though, for giving us the heads up. I was going to buy some of these myself. 

If you used a CVS discount card, you may not need a receipt. CVS may be able to find your purchase based just on the card. Good luck with this.


----------



## magellan

Duramarks said:


> Sure about what?



Ah, I just realized you're running 1.5V lithiums, not 10440 3.7V.


----------



## Burgess

Great Thread Here !

lovecpf



And I certainly want to thank CPF'er " mzil "
for his very informative and useful 
YouTube videos ! ! !


:twothumbs
_


----------



## RWT1405

I'm really liking the Pelican 1910 LED and 1920 LED I purchased a couple of months ago. 

They fit great in the chest pocket on my t-shirt (even the 2 AAA 1920 LED) and I am impressed by the light they produce. 

The only change I would make, would be to reduce the low level, by about half.


----------



## WarRaven

RWT1405 said:


> I'm really liking the Pelican 1910 LED and 1920 LED I purchased a couple of months ago.
> 
> They fit great in the chest pocket on my t-shirt (even the 2 AAA 1920 LED) and I am impressed by the light they produce.
> 
> The only change I would make, would be to reduce the low level, by about half.


Aren't they a great pair of lights!
I love them.
Closest beam profile to an Innova I've found, but brighter.


----------



## RWT1405

I am very happy with them WarRaven!

I'm so glad that parnass turned me on to them!


----------



## jon_slider

OCD said:


> they worked for me when I bought mine.



Trust but Verify

Its on ME for not testing a battery in a container I bought, putting blind faith in your obviously helpfully intended post.

not your fault they changed the container, my fault for not checking… not blaming you.. Im blaming me.. thanks for trying to help

In all fairness the U$A made stainless model is still recommended, but I have not tested it.


----------



## WarRaven

RWT1405 said:


> I am very happy with them WarRaven!
> 
> I'm so glad that parnass turned me on to them!


Yup, that Parnass is a full blown enabler.
I'm glad too.☺


----------



## RWT1405

LOL, Yes, he is!


----------



## OCD

@ jon_slider,
:grouphug: no worries. Hope you find something that works for you.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

USA Gus made stainless pill holder is electrically conductive yes? I'm just wondering if there might be an issue with a faint current flow, given the close proximity of a presumably conductive material.


----------



## Monocrom

OCD said:


> Bad internet advice, huh? Not sure why people would say these would work? Hmmmmmm....let me think.....wait...I got it. Because they worked for me when I bought mine. I never said they fit evey 10440 sized cell out there, only that mine fit MY Duraloops. Sorry the manufacturer must have changed the design (or maybe CVS changed manufacturer) and they didn't work for you, but I don't appreciate the insinuation of giving "bad internet advice". Simply letting others know they no longer fit AAA cells would suffice.



Folks sometimes forget there are very slight differences in length and sometimes even in thickness with regards to both AAA and AA batteries. It's the slightest bit, but enough to sometimes make a difference.


----------



## Monocrom

KITROBASKIN said:


> USA Gus made stainless pill holder is electrically conductive yes? I'm just wondering if there might be an issue with a faint current flow, given the close proximity of a presumably conductive material.




Take a tiny bit of cotton, and place a bit at the top and bottom of the container. If that means the battery won't fit, then get a delrin dedicated battery-carrier.


----------



## more_vampires

KITROBASKIN said:


> USA Gus made stainless pill holder is electrically conductive yes? I'm just wondering if there might be an issue with a faint current flow, given the close proximity of a presumably conductive material.


Faint? You mean "dead short." This will blow a lion up.


----------



## Learningtobeprepared

phosphor22 said:


> AAA light fan here--
> Just love the ThruNite TiS NW that I recently got - the tint is fabulous and am currently trying to decide on either this as my holiday gift to a handful of people or the Atom A0 which I love too -- but the tint on the TiS is lovely. The sub-lumen and the 12 lm low mode are what I mostly use anyway. The stainless steel has a very nice heft and feel in the hand.



I just got this light. It's awesome, right? 

1. Did you know that you can create a momentary on pulling back on the head if have it positioned just right?

2. Do you know if rechargeables work well in it?


----------



## KITROBASKIN

more_vampires said:


> Faint? You mean "dead short." This will blow a lion up.



Actually, it appears that the internal machining will prevent a dead short. It is such a tank of a storage capsule I am not sure if a dead short would be contained or catastrophe. I was just wondering with the close proximity of a conductive surface, even with a cushioning barrier like cotton, that maybe some electron flow may occur. I go with delrin for 10440 battery storage.


----------



## more_vampires

KITROBASKIN said:


> I was just wondering with the close proximity of a conductive surface, even with a cushioning barrier like cotton, that maybe some electron flow may occur.


Oh, no. Won't happen if battery positive doesn't contact the case. Good call on the delrin.


----------



## Prepped

mzil said:


> 4 AAA can be carried in a Tic Tac box, in a zigzag alignment (the cylinders are staggered, not in line) and I show how to easily add a keyring attachment to one at 6m30s into this video:
> 
> 
> Tic Tac boxes can also carry 3xAA batteries or a combo of the two, such as 3xAAA + 1xAA (tightly) or 1xAAA + 2xAA.




Holy crap. I've been watching your Youtube videos for years. Had no idea you were on CPF! Awesome!


----------



## jon_slider

Learningtobeprepared said:


> momentary on pulling back on the head… rechargeables work well in it?



Thrunite Ti is not rated for LiIon

yes, like all twisty lights, the Thrunite has momentary ON by pressing the head towards the body

I use Eneloop rechargeables in my modded to High CRI Warm XP-L Olight i3S and carry a spare eneloop in a Thrunite Ti CW, whose tint I love to hate.

imo the Delrin locker is a more secure storage option for a LiIon than a twisty light that might activate momentary on, in a pocket, on a light that is not rated for LiIon.

Given the choice to store a LiIon in a 28 gram stainless steel container, or an 8 gram Delrin container, I would pick Delrin, both for the lower weight, as well as the non conductive material.


----------



## Learningtobeprepared

jon_slider said:


> Thrunite Ti is not rated for LiIon
> 
> yes, like all twisty lights, the Thrunite has momentary ON by pressing the head towards the body
> 
> I use Eneloop rechargeables in my modded to High CRI Warm XP-L Olight i3S and carry a spare eneloop in a Thrunite Ti CW, whose tint I love to hate.
> 
> imo the Delrin locker is a more secure storage option for a LiIon than a twisty light that might activate momentary on, in a pocket, on a light that is not rated for LiIon.
> 
> Given the choice to store a LiIon in a 28 gram stainless steel container, or an 8 gram Delrin container, I would pick Delrin, both for the lower weight, as well as the non conductive material.



Hey, thanks for responding. I'm not familiar with the term 'lilon'. What does that mean? Are you saying that I should not use an eneloop battery in the Tis?

Thanks. And I apologize for not understanding the terminology yet.


----------



## jon_slider

Learningtobeprepared said:


> I'm not familiar with the term 'lilon'. What does that mean? … use an eneloop battery in the Tis?



this is hopefully correct.. verify by doing more googling, or someone here can fine tune my basic understanding

1. 10440 size Lithium Ion, which fits aaa lights, is a 3.7 volt rechargeable battery type. I dont have experience with LiIon, and can not recommend using them in a Thrunite Ti, which is designed for a Working voltage of 0.9-3V

2. AAA Eneloop is a NiMH or Nickel Metal Hydride 1.2 volt rechargeable battery type. I highly recommend using them in a thrunite or any other aaa light that is not specifically designed for the higher powered, and potentially more dangerous LiIon.

3. AAA Duracel is an Alkaline 1.5 volt nonrechargeable battery type. I recommend you NOT use them because they leak and stick to the inside of the flaslight.

4. AAA Ultimate Lithium is a 1.5 volt nonrechargeable battery type. I highly recommend you use them instead of Alkalines, if you dont use NiMH rechargeables. It is a great battery, expensive.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

Is there an infinitely adjustable AAA light that anyone knows of? 

I'd really like to get a light with the UI of the V10R and the size of the LF2XT. That would be something to love.


----------



## magellan

Great question. How about the Peak Eiger AAA/10440 QTC light? The variable QTC control isn't quite as fine or smooth as the control ring technology, but it's pretty good. Plus you don't have any driver losses.

http://www.em-mgt.com/LED/Eiger.html


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

Never been a fan of QTC lights. Tried them in the Ku DD lights and they were always jumpy when setting levels. 

TGWNN was on the right track with his AAA light, but his direction is more of a hi power mini light. My preference is with going down from about 50 lumens down to the LED being just barely lit.


----------



## magellan

Yeah, the smaller ones especially. But the bigger lights are better there, probably because of the greater surface area, but then you'd be going to a much bigger and fatter CR123A light. I have two Logans that are much smoother than the tiny lights. You can't win. 

I have many small QTC lights. The lower levels are jumpier like you observed, but one of them I can just barely turn on and get a pretty good moonlight mode.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

What's the overall opinion on the Peaks? Can you get a nice moonlight low with decent level settings?


----------



## yoyoman

QTC is a polarizing topic (like PWM). I can get a very good moonlight low with my Oveready Peaks. But I can't redial the exact same setting every time. And sometimes it can be finicky before it settles down. Same with other QTC lights.


----------



## RGRAY

My AAAs:

*TAIN*
Ottavino ti AAA 
Ottavino damascus AAA
*MARATAC*
Rev 3 Copper AAA 
Rev 3 Copper AAA 
*PEAK*
Eiger Lug ss AAA 
*FENIX*
E05 ss AAA 
*FourSevens *
Atom AO ss (green glow) AAA 
*Olight*
A3 EOS ti AAA 
*ThruNite*
162 ti AAA 
*DQG*
V3 ti cw AAA
Tiny 60 Lumens Cree XP G2 ss cw AAA 
XPG2 R5 Tiny ss cw AAA
Clicky ss cw AAA 
Clicky ss nw AAA 
Tank007 ES12 ss AAA


----------



## more_vampires

jon_slider said:


> this is hopefully correct.. verify by doing more googling, or someone here can fine tune my basic understanding
> 
> 1. 10440 size Lithium Ion, which fits aaa lights, is a 3.7 volt rechargeable battery type. I dont have experience with LiIon, and can not recommend using them in a Thrunite Ti, which is designed for a Working voltage of 0.9-3V
> 
> 2. AAA Eneloop is a NiMH or Nickel Metal Hydride 1.2 volt rechargeable battery type. I highly recommend using them in a thrunite or any other aaa light that is not specifically designed for the higher powered, and potentially more dangerous LiIon.
> 
> 3. AAA Duracel is an Alkaline 1.5 volt nonrechargeable battery type. I recommend you NOT use them because they leak and stick to the inside of the flaslight.
> 
> 4. AAA Ultimate Lithium is a 1.5 volt nonrechargeable battery type. I highly recommend you use them instead of Alkalines, if you dont use NiMH rechargeables. It is a great battery, expensive.


That's all fine Jon, except that Lithium Ion is 4.15-4.35v fully charged depending and most chargers cut off at 4.2v. This voltage will drop a bit as the battery rests off of the charger. When using in a multibattery light, you want the resting open circuit voltage to be within about .01v if you can manage.

It's a sign that the multi battery set is ready to be replaced when the batteries sag to significant different values. You don't have to junk them, it's acceptable to split them into single battery only lights unless you can't stand the diminished capacity. I could understand that feeling.


----------



## markr6

I don't love AAA's these days


----------



## more_vampires

markr6 said:


> I don't love AAA's these days


I do. I'm carrying two right now!!!


----------



## magellan

The Peak lights are outstanding quality and are offered in both QTC and non-QTC versions.

My experience is the same as Yoyoman's, at low power it's hard to adjust precisely; but I can usually get a low enough setting that's close to what I think you want. The much bigger Peak Logan lights have smoother QTC's, but as I said those are bigger and heavier. 

I happen to like the QTC's but they're not for everybody. I also like the Sunwayman, Jetbeam, Nitecore, etc., lights with nice, precise, infinitely adjustable control rings, but again they're a lot bigger. I usually EDC three small lights with different capabilities (e.g., throw, mule, QTC, non-QTC) to cover all the bases since what's the point in being a flashaholic if you can't have your cake and eat it too?


----------



## jon_slider

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> My preference is with going down from about 50 lumens down to the LED being just barely lit.


thrunite, olight, and L3 Illumination all have sublumen lows with no PWM

"]left to right, 3000k XP-L at .5 lumens, 3000K XP-G at .04 lumens, 5800K XP-L .04 lumens, 4400k N219a at .09 lumens





[/QUOTE]


----------



## Badbeams3

I'm considering getting a UltraTac K18 along with a couple 10440's. What is the recommended charge rate for these batteries? The lowest my charger goes is .5 . Is that to high?


----------



## uofaengr

Badbeams3 said:


> I'm considering getting a UltraTac K18 along with a couple 10440's. What is the recommended charge rate for these batteries? The lowest my charger goes is .5 . Is that to high?


I would say it's too high, but I guess wouldn't kill the batteries like 1A would. I use a D4 which will do 300mA. I'd say 250-300mA is probably best.


----------



## defloyd77

Personally I'm finding it hard to find a AAA light to love. I can't seem to find a light that has a L/M/H twist UI in neutral white. Everything either has poor mode spacing, poor grip, moonlight mode or a large head that negates the smaller AAA form factor.


----------



## uofaengr

defloyd77 said:


> Personally I'm finding it hard to find a AAA light to love. I can't seem to find a light that has a L/M/H twist UI in neutral white. Everything either has poor mode spacing, poor grip, moonlight mode or a large head that negates the smaller AAA form factor.


Prometheus Beta maybe?


----------



## creegeek

defloyd77 said:


> Personally I'm finding it hard to find a AAA light to love. I can't seem to find a light that has a L/M/H twist UI in neutral white. Everything either has poor mode spacing, poor grip, moonlight mode or a large head that negates the smaller AAA form factor.



I own a Fenix E05, I use an Energizer AAA lithium for the extended runtime. For size I think its amazing. The L/M/H twist UI is decent. I needed to spray the inside head and tube top with contact cleaner to make the connection 100% reliable.

My only complaint with the size/weight trade off of any light is the resulting throw and hotspot. I tend to like a hotspot with my lights - so the Fenix E12 and E05 are good but not for long distance.

Good luck with your search!


----------



## Tac Gunner

The only AAA light I have right now is a Coast HL7 headlamp and it isn't bad when used with eneloops but its still a battery hog. A friend just got a Thrunite Ti4 and I really like it. The modes and UI are exactly what I look for, believe I may pick one up in neutral along with the new Ti5 in neutral. I can always find a spare pocket to stash a small AAA light in just in case my other two edc lights fail lol.


----------



## phosphor22

defloyd77 said:


> Personally I'm finding it hard to find a AAA light to love. I can't seem to find a light that has a L/M/H twist UI in neutral white. Everything either has poor mode spacing, poor grip, moonlight mode or a large head that negates the smaller AAA form factor.



I also search for this AAA light - LMH with good mode spacing and, for me: a great firefly (around .3 lumens), Nichia 219 with no PWM as well... ever elusive... and I can also add while on a roll: in copper or wonderfully machined Ti


----------



## jon_slider

phosphor22 said:


> I also search for this AAA light - LMH with good mode spacing and, for me: a great firefly (around .3 lumens), Nichia 219 with no PWM as well... ever elusive... and I can also add while on a roll: in copper or wonderfully machined Ti



1. Prometheus Beta Copper, 1-15-85 with N219 (neutral white high CRI) but yes PWM, and its the heaviest of the bunch
2. L3 Illumination L08, .09-3-30-90 with N219, no PWM, but fat head, its the next heaviest
3. Thrunite Ti Stainless, .04-12-120 available in neutral white, no PWM (theres a Titanium version, but the threads are super gritty) (stainless is heavy, titanium is light, also comes in alum)
4. maratac aaa copper or alum M-L-H 40-1.5-120, but no NW, and has PWM.. can be modified by Vinh to High CRI, no PWM (thrunite driver, N219)

5. if you can be flexible on mode sequence, its hard to beat the Olight i3s M-H-L 20-80-.5, no PWM, but no neutral white. I had one modified by gunga to use a high CRI 3000k XPL, it is by far my favorite, and Ive had each of the others listed above.

now about L-M-H, most of the time I prefer the Medium first. In practice low is not useful the majority of time, it is a specialty need, during fully dark adapted situations, which is not the majority of my use. And when I do want Low, I just turn the light on and off 3 times against my other hand and viola!

not sure what some of you mean by L-M-H as different from firefly.. I consider firefly part of Low

6. If you dont want a low level, the Fenix E05, though they dont have PWM, they come in to me ugly blue tint, mode is L-M-H 8-25-85. There is also a stainless version. 

7. The Eagletac 25aaa comes in N219, L-M-H 6-32-69 lacks firefly, it does have PWM

If you cant find what you want among those 7 choices, then yes, you will find it hard to love just about any light.. Consider modifying some of your criteria to fit whats available.. also consider a custom LED swap.


----------



## defloyd77

The Beta QR looks nie, but it brings up another problem I forgot to me tion, I need some good knurling. The D25AAA was kind of appealing, but the spacing between medium and high is too close.

Basically I want something like the Preon (which I have in high CRI, but it is to slick) or the Fenix LD01 in neutral white.

Thanks everyone for the help!


----------



## Danielsan

niteye released two new AAA lights with pretty high Lumens for AAA. The 2xAAA Version is 280 Lumen and it has LMH mode but without a moonlight mode. Both versions have clicky and they use the grey anodizing, so pretty interesting lights. I would buy the 2xAAA penlight. Niteye SE-A02 30/82/280 Lumens


----------



## tech25

I just bought a Lumintop TOOL AAA. Its a bit taller than a fenix EO1 but with 3 modes starting MED (32 lm for 10 hours)-LOW (5 lm for 60 hours)-HI (110 lm for 30 miutes) The clip is ok- i think it should be a deeper carry for security. The body feels solid. The beam is on the floody side and is good for indoors or closer outdoor uses. 

My EDC will still be the sunwayman V11r but for when I have my bag nearby with a backup, I will keep this in my pocket- its so small!.

Should I buy regular aaa eneloops or is the eneloop pro better for this? I am not too worried about loosing the extra charging cycles.


----------



## gurdygurds

I recently got the Tool as well and I really like it. I would use Eneloop Pro just for the extra runtime. This would be about perfect for me if it started on low or even better a firefly then low, med, high. I did find out that you can put a Ti3 head on the tool body if you want a solid clicky version of the Ti3.


tech25 said:


> I just bought a Lumintop TOOL AAA. Its a bit taller than a fenix EO1 but with 3 modes starting MED (32 lm for 10 hours)-LOW (5 lm for 60 hours)-HI (110 lm for 30 miutes) The clip is ok- i think it should be a deeper carry for security. The body feels solid. The beam is on the floody side and is good for indoors or closer outdoor uses.
> 
> My EDC will still be the sunwayman V11r but for when I have my bag nearby with a backup, I will keep this in my pocket- its so small!.
> 
> Should I buy regular aaa eneloops or is the eneloop pro better for this? I am not too worried about loosing the extra charging cycles.


----------



## jon_slider

tech25 said:


> I just bought a Lumintop TOOL AAA….
> The clip is ok- i think it should be a deeper carry for security...
> My EDC will still be the sunwayman V11r...
> Should I buy regular aaa eneloops or is the eneloop pro better for this?



Congrats! Im waiting on a Copper Tool with N219


agreed, the clip position is silly, in one photo Ive seen, someone opened up the clip clasp and fitted it higher up, around the body of the switch


Sunwayman V11r, is in a whole other league, weighs and costs as much as FOUR Tools.

Eneloop pro are only better because of capacity, if you already have the old eneloops, they work fine. If youre buying today, the old ones cost less. Either one will work, neither will hurt your light.


----------



## tech25

Thanks, as far as the clip goes I did see someone using the streamlight microstream clip but will try to play around with this clip. 

I was just comparing the difference between an AA size light to an AAA size light- I used to dismiss the AAA size as underpowered and useless but between me buying the EO1 and the TOOL, I realized that for everyday use, I can have a light that I don't notice the weight on me. As small as the v11r is, I still notice it when I have it dangling on a tec P-7. I generally have 2 or more lights on me, so with an AAA light matched with a bigger light- I have a great combo of this and longer runtimes.

As far as the eneloops, I will get the pro for the added capacity.


----------



## bykfixer

Push button; turns on
Push button; turns off
Everytime!

Good enough for me.


----------



## RUSH FAN

CPF Friends - 

Does anyone know what aaa flashlight this is? Photo is not mine, borrowed picture of it from the "other flashlight forum ".

Thanks in advance [emoji1]


----------



## mzil

I suspect the mystery light is a pre-release version of a DQG, Rush fan.


----------



## GordoJones88

RUSH FAN said:


> Does anyone know what aaa flashlight this is? Photo is not mine, borrowed picture of it from the "other flashlight forum ".


 
The guy in the other forum specifically said "You can't get it in the regular stores yet."

Why don't you send him a PM asking what it is?


----------



## RUSH FAN

GordoJones88 said:


> The guy in the other forum specifically said "You can't get it in the regular stores yet."
> 
> Why don't you send him a PM asking what it is?



I shall!


----------



## RUSH FAN

Thanks mzil, will check it out


----------



## RUSH FAN

Love the AAA 's


----------



## gurdygurds

Anyone out there using AAA lights exclusively? The more I use my AAA lights the more I'm starting to wonder what if they can basically replace the few single AA lights I have. I don't need super bright for extended periods typically and if I do need something more powerful with longer runtime I would use my LD22. Single AAA lights have gotten so good that I'm starting to see single AA lights falling into no mans land for me. Anyone else have similar feelings?? By the way my current AAA lights are Ti3, regular Tool, E01, and Preon P1.


----------



## cancow

2 aa pen lights are ok, but I don't get why an aaa over an aa in any situation. And there are n
better options for keychain lights these days


----------



## gurdygurds

Size my brother. Size. Especially if I'm going to be carrying it around in pocket or clipped to a pocket. Well size and I just think they're fun. Believe me I like my single AA lights, but for most times I need a light the AAAs are handling it just as well at a much smaller size.


cancow said:


> 2 aa pen lights are ok, but I don't get why an aaa over an aa in any situation. And there are n
> better options for keychain lights these days


----------



## jon_slider

gurdygurds said:


> Anyone out there using AAA lights exclusively?...



Yes. I have a selection of CCT that I rotate based on time of day and ambient light.

1. Copper Maratac AAA with 5800k XP-G2 in the car, for looking at things under the car, 
2. Copper ReyLight Tool AAA with 4000k Nichia 219 in my pocket, for lighting anything in the house, garage, under the couch, etc (note the ReyLight head is on a Maratac body, and Maratac head on ReyLight body.. I prefer to carry the twisty, its smaller, and silent operation)
3. Copper Maratac AAA with ReyLight driver and 3000k XPG as a nightstand light for use when its pitch dark. 
4. Thrunite Titanium Xmas with 6000k XPL, I dont use it, hate the tint, and hate the gritty threads
5. Copper Worm with 4000k Nichia 219, I dont use it, dont care for the body weight. I put the Worm head on the Thrunite body, for keychain use.
6. Olight i3s with 3000k XPL. My most dark adapted use with the lowest low.. nightstand, car camping, for pitch black environment only.

If the Astrolux A01 single AAA gets produced in Copper, with the N219, Im picking one of those up too. 
And when Lumintop releases a Copper Tool AAA with the new flat clickie with tailstanding ability that is on their Titanium Tool AAA, I will probably pick up the Copper version.

I dont own any AA lights, though Im tempted by the L3 L10 4 mode with Nichia.
Also tempted by the Zebra SC5, but deterred by their high weight and low CRI. 

I dont own any CR123 lights, though Im tempted by the Olight S1 in Raw Copper, but deterred by the very low CRI.

I dont own any lights that use LiIon. 
I dont own any lights with PWM. 

Sold my Copper Prometheus Beta AAA due to PWM, sold my earlier PWM based Copper Maratac AAA, and earlier PWM based Copper Tool, also to be rid of PWM. Fortunately the latest Lumintop Worm, and Tools, and Maratacs have a new circuit with NO PWM.


----------



## mzil

I use single AAA almost exclusively:
- small enough for a keychain, my main form of carry
- small enough for an Altoids survival tin, and when using some batteries such as Lithium, having a shelf life clocking in at over a decade
- adequate battery life for my typical use, which is mostly for very brief periods of time, say to check under the car or couch if I drop something
- uses the smallest/lightest size battery which is readily available from any store, and at a very reasonable cost, so a replacement can be had anywhere in any country
- uses the smallest/lightest size battery which is readily available in the form of LSD NiMH [Eneloop]
- very common design so there are tons of options: like strobe? don't like strobe? lick clicky? don't like clicky? etc.
- uses a size of battery which is so prevalent that by only buying devices that use it, each device effectively becomes a backup battery holder for all the other devices [especially good in stranded, survival situations]
- uses a form of battery that works with my homemade, solar powered, keychain carry, glowfob/AAA battery charger. [An ongoing project. Here's a video on version 3, version 4 is coming soon]:


----------



## Tachead

I personally dont really like AAA lights for anything other then a bedside table light(they are great for that). I find them to be smaller then needed, not bright enough for many daytime uses, and they just dont have enough capacity with runtimes of only 30min or so at around 100 lumens. They also tend to get hot fast on high. I pocket carry CR123a/16340/18350 lights and small 18650 lights all day every day and find them to be plenty small enough for pocket carry(I clip them inside my left front pocket with my wallet). They have way more output and features for just about any normal use I run into and have enough capacity to not have to worry about carrying a spare battery or charging often. Even if I wanted a more slim light I would always chose a AA light(like a D25A or L11C) over AAA for EDC. YMMV


----------



## BriteLite2

I think that's the problem right there

pushing AAA lights to output 300 lumens is ridiculous beyond the wow factor for 2 mins.

even 100 lumens is unnecessary beyond wowing those around you . as long as the output is kept at reasonable levels considering the limited capability of the AAA then its a great format and as an EDC its perfect . as an emergency light that's small and light its great . as mentioned it fits in an altoids can. like everything else there is no one tool that does everything for every job. can a AAA replace every other light out there? of course not. But it can get the job done and eliminate the need for larger lights for many in a large percentage of situations. I havnt needed 300 lumens in 2 years!!! I rarely need more than 20 lumens!!


----------



## Brett H

jon_slider said:


> Sold my Copper Prometheus Beta AAA due to PWM, sold my earlier PWM based Copper Maratac AAA, and earlier PWM based Copper Tool, also to be rid of PWM. Fortunately the latest Lumintop Worm, and Tools, and Maratacs have a new circuit with NO PWM.



How long ago was the circuitry changed to eliminate PWM in the Lumintop CU Tools?


----------



## gurdygurds

BriteLite2 said:


> I think that's the problem right there
> 
> pushing AAA lights to output 300 lumens is ridiculous beyond the wow factor for 2 mins.
> 
> even 100 lumens is unnecessary beyond wowing those around you . as long as the output is kept at reasonable levels considering the limited capability of the AAA then its a great format and as an EDC its perfect . as an emergency light that's small and light its great . as mentioned it fits in an altoids can. like everything else there is no one tool that does everything for every job. can a AAA replace every other light out there? of course not. But it can get the job done and eliminate the need for larger lights for many in a large percentage of situations. I havnt needed 300 lumens in 2 years!!! I rarely need more than 20 lumens!!


Yea that's pretty much what I'm saying. Typically I don't need that kind of high output or longer runtime unless I'm camping etc. and that's where a single AA or 2xAA comes into play. But everyday use and around the house the mid mode of my AAA seems to be handling it. Who knows, in a few years AAA lights may double in runtime.


----------



## AVService

I really prefer my EDC light to have a forward clicky and longer life than any AAA can provide.
The Forward switch alone removes most AAA from consideration for me though I do always carry one in my 5th pocket as it is so easy to stick in my mouth for short times as needed.

No way that is going to replace the 1AA lights that I rely on though.


----------



## jon_slider

BriteLite2 said:


> pushing AAA lights to output 300 lumens is ridiculous… even 100 lumens is unnecessary



good distinction
for working on a car during the day, for more than a few minutes, AAA is the wrong tool for the job. 100lumens during the day is not very bright. For daytime car work, 200 lumens is better, that is AA or CR123 territory, or LiIon

otoh, for uses below 100 lumens, especially below 40 lumens, the AAA is sufficient, and imo excellent due to its small size and weight.


Brett H said:


> How long ago was the circuitry changed to eliminate PWM in the Lumintop CU Tools?



I noticed the change to NoPWM in October 2015. At the same time the ring around the LED appeared, so I use that as a guide.

the light with PWM on the left is from June 2015, the light on the right with NoPWM is from October 2015, coinciding with the ring around the LED. You can be sure that if you see a ring around the LED, the light has the new NoPWM circuit. (except for Massdrop advertisements, that use outdated photos from the old PWM based models, but actually ship models with the ring around the LED)





here is a beam shot of those two lights on Medium. You can see the PWM creates scan lines on my photos, which is one reason I avoid PWM.


----------



## uofaengr

The only AAA light I consider carrying these days is a ToolVN which would actually be 10440. Usually just for the novelty and when I know no seriously extended illumination tasks will be needed though I usually have a spare and charger nearby. Its size is actually a disadvantage to me. It's easier to get lost and harder to hold onto. A single AA such as the L11C is a lot more secure in my hand. 

I'd also carry the copper Beta on a special occasion just for the novelty and looks of it.


----------



## PROTOOLNUT

Hey, great forum post! I too like small AAA based lights for the keychain. Many people like to get the ones that require lithium button cells, but I hate them because they are very hard to find, and are usually only found online. Where as you can find a standard AAA alkaline cell pretty much everywhere you go, so they are the perfect based light for emergencies. My keychain light is awesome, it puts out 100 lumens, and that is literally the highest lumen keychain light I ever owned. 100 lumens is enough to light up the room.


----------



## MikeSalt

Definitely hard not to love. Here's my latest acquisition, a Lumintop TOOL Ti Nichia AAA sandwiched between the wife's two Fenix AAA lights.


----------



## PROTOOLNUT

Oh my gosh, I so covet that gold flashlight like free pizza in a star trek convention


----------



## bartko09

I'm a few days away from listing a bunch of brand new Maratac AAA Ti & Cu up on the site. Emitters range from 219B & C, XPE2 and XPL HI. I'm also working to put a few modified Surefire Titans up as well. 

For anyone not aware link is in my signature line [emoji6]


----------



## Monocrom

Must admit that nowadays I'm using AA and AAA batteries a lot more often than I used to just a couple of years back. Now a case of 12 CR123s easily lasts me over a year.


----------



## Brett H

jon_slider said:


> good distinction
> for working on a car during the day, for more than a few minutes, AAA is the wrong tool for the job. 100lumens during the day is not very bright. For daytime car work, 200 lumens is better, that is AA or CR123 territory, or LiIon
> 
> otoh, for uses below 100 lumens, especially below 40 lumens, the AAA is sufficient, and imo excellent due to its small size and weight.
> 
> 
> I noticed the change to NoPWM in October 2015. At the same time the ring around the LED appeared, so I use that as a guide.
> 
> the light with PWM on the left is from June 2015, the light on the right with NoPWM is from October 2015, coinciding with the ring around the LED. You can be sure that if you see a ring around the LED, the light has the new NoPWM circuit. (except for Massdrop advertisements, that use outdated photos from the old PWM based models, but actually ship models with the ring around the LED)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is a beam shot of those two lights on Medium. You can see the PWM creates scan lines on my photos, which is one reason I avoid PWM.


 

Much appreciated info Jon! Your information was spot on! My Cu Tool was purchased in Dec. while my Al Tool was purchased in Oct. As shown, the Cu has the ring and the Al does not.


----------



## bartko09

Monocrom said:


> Must admit that nowadays I'm using AA and AAA batteries a lot more often than I used to just a couple of years back. Now a case of 12 CR123s easily lasts me over a year.



Really? Impressive. I was going through seemed like one every day or two when I had a Minimus; but I wear a head light constantly when building


----------



## cadic

My Fenix E05 always in my keychain.


----------



## Beacon of Light

mzil said:


> I use single AAA almost exclusively:
> - small enough for a keychain, my main form of carry
> - small enough for an Altoids survival tin, and when using some batteries such as Lithium, having a shelf life clocking in at over a decade
> - adequate battery life for my typical use, which is mostly for very brief periods of time, say to check under the car or couch if I drop something
> - uses the smallest/lightest size battery which is readily available from any store, and at a very reasonable cost, so a replacement can be had anywhere in any country
> - uses the smallest/lightest size battery which is readily available in the form of LSD NiMH [Eneloop]
> - very common design so there are tons of options: like strobe? don't like strobe? lick clicky? don't like clicky? etc.
> - uses a size of battery which is so prevalent that by only buying devices that use it, each device effectively becomes a backup battery holder for all the other devices [especially good in stranded, survival situations]
> - uses a form of battery that works with my homemade, solar powered, keychain carry, glowfob/AAA battery charger. [An ongoing project. Here's a video on version 3, version 4 is coming soon]:




What are you planning for version 4? I just watched all 3 of your videos on this. Looking forward to #4


----------



## mzil

^In version #4 I fill up the empty, unutilized space with items to make it a keychain sized (albeit bare bone) survival kit. The solar AAA charger part provides perpetual, off-grid electricity to my keychain's 1xAAA signaling laser and flashlight in an extended survival situation.

Although necessarily very small, I see a huge advantage to keychain based survival kits: without even thinking about it you automatically have it on you every single time you walk out the door, so you are always prepared for an unexpected disaster or emergency while away from your home, 24/7/365. Just like with flashlights, cameras, knives and many other items, the world's "best" one is the one you _actually_ have on you, so it's functional. That super deluxe version you left at home in your closet, _because it was too bulky to bring along_, is completely useless if you don't have it on you when you actually need it.

There's also another fundamental big difference with version #4 but I don't want to spill the beans. I'd rather keep it as a surprise.


----------



## tjdean01

defloyd77 said:


> Personally I'm finding it hard to find a AAA light to love. I can't seem to find a light that has a L/M/H twist UI in neutral white. Everything either has poor mode spacing, poor grip, moonlight mode or a large head that negates the smaller AAA form factor.



Fenix e99 Ti perfect fits all your needs: L/M/H, twist, white color (Neutral), good build, good grip, one-handed operation pretty easy, no large head, no moonlight mode. Negative for me are the rings in the beam.


----------



## jm82014

What do you guys think about the Fenix LD02? I just bought one and I was wondering if its a good durable light.


----------



## phosphor22

Bring on the Brass I say!
Maratac just brought the brass AAA back for active sale for those of you (and I include myself) that love brass and copper lights.


----------



## Ishango

jm82014 said:


> What do you guys think about the Fenix LD02? I just bought one and I was wondering if its a good durable light.



I like mine a lot. For an AAA light it's durable, has decent runtime and has a clicky. Had some minor issues withh accidental activation the first few times I carried it, but no problems with it after that. Good choice.


----------



## rjking

Liked AAA lights too! 






According to height


----------



## bykfixer

Used to be portable light in shadows meant finding a flashlight, hoping it worked and hurrying along before the battery died or the bulb blew.

Now a Microstream, LL P2 or other mini light gets it done....day after day, after day, after day.


----------



## Rob Babcock

So true! I'm pretty big on CR123A for lights but I'll always keep some AA/AAA lights around. I've got a couple of Streamlight MicroStreams and they're such great little lights! And the Fenix E01 on my keychain has been going strong for years now with at least two years on the current lithium battery! I've even got a couple more AAA lights inbound. LEDs are really getting good and efficient as well. The MicroStream is a good case in point- it puts out light nearly as much light as my old 3-C cell Pelican Nemo 2010!


----------



## kaichu dento

rjking said:


> Liked AAA lights too!


I find that very difficult to believe when you don't even have an LF2XT or an ARC! :ironic:


----------



## jorn

my lf2xt said  yesterday. Then when i was about to open it, the tweezers slipped and the driver got loose :shakehead Got so sad i had to put it aside... going to take a closer look at it today. hope it is a easy fix....


----------



## rjking

kaichu dento said:


> I find that very difficult to believe when you don't even have an LF2XT or an ARC! :ironic:



I know. Unfortunately, I was too late to the party. :shrug:


----------



## Hiro Protagonist




----------



## kreisl

photo stolen from :

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...w-Preon-Tool-Ti-Ti5T-K18-SS-A-layman-s-review


----------



## kaichu dento

Hiro Protagonist said:


>


Too bad you couldn't have bought more.  :thumbsup:


----------



## TOPDOG9000

Loving my new Surefire Titan Plus, very bright for a light this size. Used my Microstream daily until I got the Titan. That was a very good light, durable, reliable and small & light. For the price they are a tough light to beat. I might pick up another or maybe even the Protac 1AAA for the price. The titan is impressive though, hope it proves to be just as reliable.


----------



## turkeylord

You'll have to excuse the AA lights in here...






Top: Preon 2 219B

Bottom:
L3 L10 219A
Huckberry/Maratac AA Cu clicky - 47s Mini AA driver - 219A
Maratac AAA Cu - 47s Preon driver - 219B
L3 L10C 219B
Maratac AA Cu - 47s Mini AA driver - 219C
Eagletac D25A Ti - 15mm FET driver - guppydrv - 219C
Lumintop Tool Cu - Stock (for now...)
Streamlight Microstream - Stock - Awful CW reference light
Reylight Tool Cu 219B
Maratac AAA Cu - Stock (for now...)

Not pictured (at work):
47s Preon 2 219B
47s Preon 2 XPG2
47s Penlight XPG2


----------



## F250XLT

Hiro, that pic really brings me back...I loved that series of lights.


Hiro Protagonist said:


>


----------



## F250XLT

I'm somewhat intrigued by these Lumintops, I've been out of the game for quite some time, are they doing well within the community?


----------



## ncgrass

F250XLT said:


> I'm somewhat intrigued by these Lumintops, I've been out of the game for quite some time, are they doing well within the community?



I can only speak for myself but I received a lumintop tool recently and can't put it down. It's a great light, we'll spaced outputs, useful clip, decent tint, choice of click or magnetic twist and is waterproof etc. In my opinion it's great value for money. 

It's going to be used as edc rotated with a microstream so we'll see how it holds up over time. Genuinely like using it though!


----------



## Gryffin

ncgrass said:


> I can only speak for myself but I received a lumintop tool recently and can't put it down. It's a great light, we'll spaced outputs, useful clip, decent tint, choice of click or magnetic twist and is waterproof etc. In my opinion it's great value for money.



I agree, LOVE mine. If it only had a forward clicky, it would be *perfect*!


----------



## GordoJones88

Gryffin said:


> I agree, LOVE mine. If it only had a forward clicky, it would be *perfect*!



Typically, they don't use a forward clicky in small pocket lights because the switch is bigger than a reverse clicky
and the forward has accidentally activation even when barely pressed.


----------



## ncgrass

I wondered why they didn't use a forward clicky, wasn't aware they were longer. Thanks for the input!


----------



## Gryffin

GordoJones88 said:


> Typically, they don't use a forward clicky in small pocket lights because the switch is bigger than a reverse clicky
> and the forward has accidentally activation even when barely pressed.



I don't care, I'll take a few mm more length to get a superior UI.

My Lumapower LM21 has a forward clicky, but it's *very* firm, accidental activation hasn't been a problem.

Even with a longer forward clicky, the Tool would be more compact than the LM21, and I like the more secure knurling on the Tool.


----------



## tops2

Love my Lumintop Tool AAA as well. Very useful and well thought out level spacing to me. My EDC lights are now my Olight S1 and the Tool AAA. The Tool can almost replace the S1 for me for the medium and low level.

I do love the S1 much more still as I really like the turbo, high, mid and moonlight mode (but I usually use it for its mid and moonlight modes), but that's going off topic..


----------



## jon_slider

F250XLT said:


> I'm somewhat intrigued by these Lumintops, I've been out of the game for quite some time, are they doing well within the community?



Thumbs up!
choice of Aluminum, Copper, or Titanium
choice of Nichia 219b or XP-G2
choice of ReyLight version of the Tool with LMH modes and Nichia (0.08-16-80), or Nichia Tool from Lumintop modes MLH (20-3-80)

I think you can still get a ReyLight Titanium Tool, or PM me if you cant find one, I can help with Ti or Copper Reylight


----------



## GordoJones88

Gryffin said:


> Lumapower LM21 has a forward clicky.



I think this is the first AAA I have seen with a forward clicky.

Personally, I think AAA should be a twisty keychain and AA should be a clicky with pocket clip.


----------



## F250XLT

Great feedback guys, much appreciated!


----------



## Gryffin

GordoJones88 said:


> Personally, I think AAA should be a twisty keychain and AA should be a clicky with pocket clip.



I used to think that, too. But when it's summer and sweltering, and I'm wearing lightweight shorts, I like having the LM21 clipped in my pocket. Small, nearly weightless, but still a "real" flashlight in terms of performance.


----------



## jon_slider

fwiw Lumapower LM21 modes on primary AAA LMH 3-60-100
weight with Eneloop 33 grams
according to this http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25787 the Lumapower LM21 uses *PWM*.. and reviews say the switch is terrible.. ymmv
I do not know the CRI of the LM21.. 


by contrast, the Lumintop Tool does NOT use PWM in the present versions, AND is available in High CRI Nichia 219b.. Im a huge fan of the Lumintop Tool, 

I prefer twisty AAA, they are smaller and weigh less, for example, the Olight i3s is just 24 grams with eneloop, has no PWM, but also no High CRI

lots of choices, depends on priorities, if you want High CRI or not, if you tolerate PWM or not, if you want clicky or twisty.. if you want copper or are fine with Aluminum.. etc

My personal favorite light is a lego of a Copper Maratac body, with a Nichia Worm head. This combo gives me twisty, copper, noPWM, yes High CRI, and MLH modes that I find most practical for edc.. fwiw, the Tool will also lego with the Maratac..

I also like that I can attach the tail of my light to a magnet, (the magnet is actually a pair of them attached above and below the visor map band, not to the light) 
tailhang from a magnet not an option with a clickie..





sizes left to right, AAA Maratac, AAA TiTool, AAA CuTool, L11c AA






note Maratac wont tailstand with clip in hat position, as pictured I ground down the tip
also fwiw, the Tool and Maratac pocket clips are interchangeable
note the Tool and Maratac heads are interchangeable only in Copper or Aluminum, not the TiTool


----------



## Gryffin

jon_slider said:


> fwiw Lumapower LM21 modes on primary AAA LMH 3-60-100
> …
> according to this http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25787 the Lumapower LM21 uses *PWM*.. and reviews say the switch is terrible.. ymmv


LM21 on 10440, from Lumapower site: 12-220-350 lumens. Comparison with my other lights of known output, that seems about right, maybe closer to 300 on high, but still a screamer on IMR LiIon.

The switch is stiff, definitely, but since it's exposed, I'd rather have it stiff than risk a "hot pocket" situation, especially on LiIon! As for PWM, yes it's there, but I'm fairly sensitive to it, and I've only noticed it on Low, so the frequency is pretty high. As you said, YMMV, I'm OK with it, others might find it annoying, others might not notice it at all.




jon_slider said:


> by contrast, the Lumintop Tool does NOT use PWM in the present versions, AND is available in High CRI Nichia 219b.. Im a huge fan of the Lumintop Tool,


I love the Tool too, but almost all my lights are forward clickies, I find most reverse clickies annoying. The Tool is good enough I can overlook it. 

I might have to get a newer Tool. I got mine when it first came out, with a folder XP-G and only two modes. Wish I could afford the copper one… 




jon_slider said:


> My personal favorite light is a lego of a Copper Maratac body, with a Nichia Worm head. This combo gives me twisty, copper, noPWM, yes High CRI, and MLH modes that I find most practical for edc.


Sweet!


----------



## jon_slider

Gryffin said:


> I might have to get a newer Tool.



very inexpensive in Alum, but no Nichia option unless you buy copper or Titanium version

personally, I dont consider LiIon equivalent to AAA in safety, and it raises the low mode higher than I prefer.. Im all about Eneloop.

different strokes for different folks, no one light is best for all situations.. whatever rocks your boat, is all good 

PWM interferes with my iPhone photos, and Im superstitious about it strobing my brain.. its a personal problem.. LOL!

The TiTool is considerably less expensive from the ReyLight group buy, and has a Nichia option. Also the ReyLight version has a lower low and is LMH instead of MLH. I do not recommend LiIon in the Tool, its not rated nor protected for LiIon.

see for more info about Tool choices #769


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

My "tool box" has 4 tools Copper, Titanium, alum with clicky & alum with magnet(twisty). Love em all & having the right tool for the job is always a plus...


----------



## jon_slider

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> with magnet



fwiw, flashlight batteries are very magnetic
I did not want a magnet on my flashlight, my keys would stick to it
instead I put magnets on metal surfaces where I want my flashlight to be held
for example, the TiTool in my Westfalia Camper:










on my fridge





and in my Subaru





the round rubber dealie is one of these
Magnetic Air Vent Mount

the magnets are some of these
13mm X 1.5mm (1/2") Neodymium magnets

other car tools ;-) (love me some copper)


----------



## phosphor22

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> My "tool box" has 4 tools Copper, Titanium, alum with clicky & alum with magnet(twisty). Love em all & having the right tool for the job is always a plus...



'tool box' -- good one :laughing: I have the copper Reylight and new ReyLight Ti - love them both.


----------



## RedLED

McGizmo Sapphire and Photonfanatic Killer for me, and I have some unused Arc's

The customs are just wonderful.


----------



## Hiro Protagonist

F250XLT said:


> Hiro, that pic really brings me back...I loved that series of lights.



Good to see you back F250XLT!  It's still my favorite light.


----------



## Hiro Protagonist

jorn said:


> my lf2xt said  yesterday. Then when i was about to open it, the tweezers slipped and the driver got loose :shakehead Got so sad i had to put it aside... going to take a closer look at it today. hope it is a easy fix....



Hi jorn, I've wrecked several LF2XT pills. There are several talented modders here that can fix these unicorns and make them better than new.


----------



## jon_slider




----------



## magellan

jon_slider said:


> fwiw Lumapower LM21 modes on primary AAA LMH 3-60-100
> weight with Eneloop 33 grams
> according to this http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25787 the Lumapower LM21 uses *PWM*.. and reviews say the switch is terrible.. ymmv
> I do not know the CRI of the LM21..
> 
> 
> by contrast, the Lumintop Tool does NOT use PWM in the present versions, AND is available in High CRI Nichia 219b.. Im a huge fan of the Lumintop Tool,
> 
> I prefer twisty AAA, they are smaller and weigh less, for example, the Olight i3s is just 24 grams with eneloop, has no PWM, but also no High CRI
> 
> lots of choices, depends on priorities, if you want High CRI or not, if you tolerate PWM or not, if you want clicky or twisty.. if you want copper or are fine with Aluminum.. etc
> 
> My personal favorite light is a lego of a Copper Maratac body, with a Nichia Worm head. This combo gives me twisty, copper, noPWM, yes High CRI, and MLH modes that I find most practical for edc.. fwiw, the Tool will also lego with the Maratac..
> 
> I also like that I can attach the tail of my light to a magnet, (the magnet is actually a pair of them attached above and below the visor map band, not to the light)
> tailhang from a magnet not an option with a clickie..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sizes left to right, AAA Maratac, AAA TiTool, AAA CuTool, L11c AA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> note Maratac wont tailstand with clip in hat position, as pictured I ground down the tip
> also fwiw, the Tool and Maratac pocket clips are interchangeable
> note the Tool and Maratac heads are interchangeable only in Copper or Aluminum, not the TiTool




Great post on these AAA's, thanks.


----------



## SixCats!

Hi all,

I too recently received (after a 23 day wait) my LUMINTOP TOOL. Man, it is a sweeeet little AAA Clicky/three modes light. I keep the TOOL in a (dedicated) right pocket of my Flight Jacket. I also recently purchase an OLIGHT I3E AAA as I couldn't resist 90 lumens for a Sawbuck. I carry the I3E in the outside on left side ARM (little zip/Pen pocket) of said Flight Jacket. I however continue to carry a 1XAA Fenix in the INSIDE pocket of my Flight Jacket. Ummmm, I guess I like having lights handy. In addition, I purchased (for the wife) a FENIX E01 in Electric Purple. Pretty cool looking light! 

Pray tell, is there a Flashlight (1XAAA /prefer Clicky) that has three/four modes, the most important:

a true MOONLIGHT/FIREFLY/SUB LUM mode for real extended run times ? 

Thanks.

SixCats!


----------



## jon_slider

SixCats! said:


> is there a Flashlight (1XAAA …) four modes,
> ...
> a true MOONLIGHT/FIREFLY/SUB LUM mode



these are all twisties
L2 Illumination offers a great 4 mode imo, L08 the low is 0.09, pick of the litter, 4 modes and available with high CRI Nichia

Thrunites have very low lows, 3 modes, plus strobe: Ti3 aluminum, TiS stainless, Ti Titanium (not recommended, terrible threads and terrible tint), the low is 0.04, no high CRI, yes Neutral white available

Olight i3s, the low is 0.5 Cool white only, no High CRI 

_you could lego your way to a Tool clicky body with a thrunite Ti3 head, but no high CRI option
_both the Tool and Ti3 are available in matching black alum their pics are links








the two on the right are stock Ti Titanium and L08, the two on the left have LED swaps
left to right, Olight i3s, Maratac, Thrunite Ti Titanium, L3 illumination L08


----------



## F250XLT

Hiro Protagonist said:


> Good to see you back F250XLT!  It's still my favorite light.



Thanks, Hiro!

I probably should have kept one, such a great little light.


----------



## Gryffin

jon_slider said:


> _you could lego your way to a Tool clicky body with a thrunite Ti3 head, but no high CRI option
> _both the Tool and Ti3 are available in matching black alum



Why didn't I think to try that?!?!?! :hairpull:

As it happens, just yesterday I ordered a new three-mode Tool (with both clicky and flat magnetic tailcaps), which means I can use the clicky body of my older one with my Ti3 head! Or throw the flat tailcap on once I get it, if I change my mind and wanna go back to twisty.

Behold the ThruTop TiTool!! (or is it LumiNite Too3?)





Legos *are* fun!


----------



## Genna

My AAA's


----------



## Gryffin

Most of mine, I have a few ancient ones in a drawer, and a Klarus MiX6 on my keychain.





L to R: DQG Tiny II, Maratac AAA rev 1, Thrunite Ti HI, LumiNite Too3 (Lumintop Tool v1 head on Thrunite Ti3 body), UltraTac K18, ThruTop TiTool (Thrunite Ti3 head on Lumintop Tool clicky body), Thorfire PF03, Lumapower EDC LM21, Streamlight Microstream, SingFire 348, Spotlight Shifter 1AAA, FourSevens Preon 2 "tuxedo" (also have Preon 1 body, black of course). All but DQG and Preon 2 on Efest IMR 10440; Ti HI and Thorfire on LiFePO4. Preon runs like a champ on 1x10440.


----------



## jon_slider

Gryffin said:


> Behold the ThruTop



Masterful! a Clicky AAA with firefly and strobe.. thanks for the photo!

Here is a Nichia lego in copper, but, no firefly, and no strobe
MaraTool and ReyaTac ;-)


----------



## SixCats!

Thank you Jon for the excellent information.

Regards,
SixCats!


----------



## Hiro Protagonist

kaichu dento said:


> Too bad you couldn't have bought more.  :thumbsup:


----------



## F250XLT

Hiro Protagonist said:


>


----------



## LetThereBeLight!

TONS of Triple A porn here!


----------



## gurdygurds

Wanted to see if folks would start posting their AAA legos. I know the Tool body is a popular light to use to give some of our twisty lights a new life as a clicky, but what other AAA bodies and heads can we lego together? Personally I'm looking for other clicky bodies that will work with different heads. This one is a TOOL body with a Preon P1 Gen 2 head. Anyone have other clickies like an LD02 to see what heads will work with it? 

image by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


----------



## jon_slider

My AAA Legos are various combos between a Maratac, Tool, Worm, Thrunite Ti

WormAtac





ToolAtac





MaraTool


----------



## gurdygurds

My first copper light! Copper Worm modded to a Nichia 219b 4000k with a Reylight driver by our very own Gunga. Impressed with the build quality of this light. Excellent threads, smooth with zero play, feels very solid all around. Top it off with the Nichia and the Reylight l-m-h mode spacing and I'm happy. The second I got the light I popped in a battery to test it out, and then immediately popped the battery right back out and started to force a patina. I do not do shiny and I'm impatient so I put it in a tupperware container with some vinegar and salt. Quick and dirty but I like it. Threw on a paracord lanyard and took it to the backyard to a take some pictures. 

FullSizeRender by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr

FullSizeRender by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr

FullSizeRender by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr

IMG_5443 by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


----------



## jon_slider

gurdygurds said:


> Nichia 219b 4000k with a Reylight driver by our very own Gunga.



Outstanding! The ReyLight Driver w Nichia is definitely the Cat's Meow!
Congratulations.. I like your patina too.. 
Enjoy!

gunga put a ReyLight Driver in a Maratac for me, w a 3000k XPG.. I highly recommend the Driver and CRI upgrades he does.

here it is on the right, a step warmer than my ReyLight w N219b 





let me put that 3000k in perspective with a Cool White and a CuWorm w Nichia included


----------



## cancow

I don't get the aaa love. They are kind of too big for a keychain these days, and have no advantage over a aa in any application.


----------



## eraursls1984

cancow said:


> I don't get the aaa love. They are kind of too big for a keychain these days, and have no advantage over a aa in any application.


IMO, AA have no real advantage to 18650. They are almost the same same size, so when I can carry something as large as an AA light, I can carry an 18650. When an AA is to big I carry a 2xAAA, which is 9-6 Monday-Friday. I love AA around the house because in an emergency I can use the most common battery, but that's the extent of AA's usefulness IMO.


----------



## Tachead

Yeah, I don't get all the AAA love either. They are only really good for bedside table lights imo(I have an Astrolux A01 4000K Nichia 219B for this). For anything else I think 16340, 18350, and 18650 lights are much better options and all can be found in very compact packages.


----------



## Monocrom

cancow said:


> I don't get the aaa love. They are kind of too big for a keychain these days, and have no advantage over a aa in any application.



Have to disagree with you there. The smallest AAA-sized keychain lights are indeed barely longer than a standard house-key. Thicker, yes. But not too thick. They're more compact than most single-AA lights (even my incredibly small AA-powered Nitecore EZ-AA model). And if your AAA keychain light goes out due to a dead battery, incredibly easy to get working again. No recharging. No hunting for button-cells.


----------



## NutSAK

eraursls1984 said:


> IMO, AA have no real advantage to 18650. They are almost the same same size



:thinking: How do you figure? The AAA cell is 44% of the volume of a AA cell, and the AA cell is 46% the volume of an 18650. Also, though the AA has a volume just over twice that of AAA, it stores considerably more than twice the energy of the AAA cell. The same argument can be used for 10440 vs 14500.

I personally never carry a light on a keychain, so I don't have much use for AAA. However, though I use AA and 18650 frequently, I find well-built AA lights much more pocketable than well-built 18650 lights, and 14500 has a decent energy to size ratio.


----------



## eraursls1984

NutSAK said:


> :thinking: How do you figure? The AAA cell is 44% of the volume of a AA cell, and the AA cell is 46% the volume of an 18650. Also, though the AA has a volume just over twice that of AAA, it stores considerably more than twice the energy of the AAA cell. The same argument can be used for 10440 vs 14500.
> 
> I personally never carry a light on a keychain, so I don't have much use for AAA. However, though I use AA and 18650 frequently, I find well-built AA lights much more pocketable than well-built 18650 lights, and 14500 has a decent energy to size ratio.


The same argument you use for AA-AAA, I use for AA-18650. I find the SC62w to be barely bigger than any comparable AA light. The 18650 has over four times the energy of an AA or 14500.


----------



## gurdygurds

AAA lights are just cool! They're fun to mess with and you can always have a light on you that's barely noticeable. I'm not trying to crunch numbers and compare percentages here. I'm just enjoying these miniature flashlights!


----------



## iamlucky13

cancow said:


> I don't get the aaa love. They are kind of too big for a keychain these days, and have no advantage over a aa in any application.



They're less too big than AA lights, so they have a clear advantage over AA for applications where size and weight are important. For example, a Fenix E05 is less than half the weight, 25% shorter, and 20% smaller in diameter than an E12 (which works out to half the volume). They're also generally less expensive than AA peers.

They radically outperform most keychain lights (although the Nitecore Tube and Tip do bring meaningful new competition).

If I had to choose only one of the two options, a AA light easily wins out over a AAA, but since I don't have to choose, I'm thankful to have the option of grabbing the smaller light when I want to minimize bulk. They complement, not replace, larger lights.

I don't carry any of mine on my keychain because I don't like bulky keychains (don't even carry a coin-cell light, and I hate the keyfob for my wife's car). I just keep them in handy places to toss in my pocket when I *might* need a light. If I *know* I need a light, I usually grab a AA light.


----------



## Tachead

gurdygurds said:


> AAA lights are just cool! They're fun to mess with *and you can always have a light on you that's barely noticeable*. I'm not trying to crunch numbers and compare percentages here. I'm just enjoying these miniature flashlights!



The problem is they are also barely useful, in an EDC role, for many people due to their combination of meager output and short runtimes. Like I said, they make great bedside lights though.


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

Tachead - I EDC an AAA light everyday clipped to my dress pants pocket. I work in a business environment and subtle yet useful is the key to EDC. 

I strongly disagree with your comment on meager output. You haven't been here long enough, but when I first joined any light putting out 100 LED lumens was praised and usually sucked down batteries just as quick an equal or more powerful incan light. Seven years has shown an amazing progress in LED development and there's plenty of AAA LED lights that will put out 50-100 lumens with good runtime off a NiMH cell. 

For EDC use that is more than enough for any use I would have for a light. In fact, if you read some of the thread which ask if you could only have one light with one level what would you pick. The majority choose 50-70 lumens. That's right in the AAA sweetspot. 

Maybe it doesn't work for you, but considering this thread is now over 800 posts I would wager you are in the minority here.


----------



## :)>

I love them. They are tiny, so easy to pocket, powerful and cheap! I wish someone made one with the knurling and finish of an Arc AAA. Surefires offering is spectacular.


----------



## Tachead

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Tachead - I EDC an AAA light everyday clipped to my dress pants pocket. I work in a business environment and subtle yet useful is the key to EDC.
> 
> I strongly disagree with your comment on meager output. You haven't been here long enough, but when I first joined any light putting out 100 LED lumens was praised and usually sucked down batteries just as quick an equal or more powerful incan light. Seven years has shown an amazing progress in LED development and there's plenty of AAA LED lights that will put out 50-100 lumens with good runtime off a NiMH cell.
> 
> For EDC use that is more than enough for any use I would have for a light. In fact, if you read some of the thread which ask if you could only have one light with one level what would you pick. The majority choose 50-70 lumens. That's right in the AAA sweetspot.
> 
> Maybe it doesn't work for you, but considering this thread is now over 800 posts I would wager you are in the minority here.



Notice I said "for many people". It is not very surprising that it is useful to you in a business environment as a flashlight is barely even needed in that environment. 

Don't mistake my join date for how long I have been into lights. I have been into them since long before LED flashlights even existed and owned some of the first LED lights made. Maybe meager was a bit of a strong adjective but, an AAA just doesn't have the capacity to hold a decent output for very long. Many people, including myself, would have to carry spares to make it through the day and even then the AAA light doesn't have enough output for many tasks. I frequently use 500+ lumens, and prefer even more, for extended periods everyday and not just at work. 

Like I said, we all have different uses and lighting needs. An AAA light has no where near the output or capacity for my EDC needs nor wants. But, I love them for bedside lights and I see why people like them. I just think there are far better options for an EDC at only a slight size increase. YMMV of course. 

Minority in this thread maybe, but in the grand scheme, I think AAA lights would be one of the lowest picks on a list for most people. Start a poll if you want to confirm my assumption. I think most people just collect AAA lights because they are cheap and are so tiny and cute


----------



## icharry

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Tachead - I EDC an AAA light everyday clipped to my dress pants pocket. I work in a business environment and subtle yet useful is the key to EDC.
> 
> I strongly disagree with your comment on meager output. You haven't been here long enough, but when I first joined any light putting out 100 LED lumens was praised and usually sucked down batteries just as quick an equal or more powerful incan light. Seven years has shown an amazing progress in LED development and there's plenty of AAA LED lights that will put out 50-100 lumens with good runtime off a NiMH cell.
> 
> Maybe it doesn't work for you, but considering this thread is now over 800 posts I would wager you are in the minority here.



What he said... I just got a $15 AAA with max of 120L and exactly the same length as my car key fob but MUCH smaller in volume. i pretty much NEVER go anywhere without my keys, thus it is really an
EVERY DAY / ALL DAY CARRY. Also being able to get AAA battery at ANY liquor / market / pharmacy / gas station is a big plus over 18650 or CR123 or anything other than a AA.


----------



## jon_slider

I carry an AAA every day. It is very useful for the way I use a light, which is mostly on low and medium. It will run for hours on those modes, and I have a high mode I can use for shorter bursts when needed. I also use my AAA lights as a headlamp, thanks to the reversible clip.

In addition, my AAA light has NoLowCRI, NoCoolWhite, NoPWM, and is made of a germicidal material.. I enjoy it very much. I have several.

This is a very good time for AAA. The Lumintop Copper Tool w Nichia is presently the absolute best buy for my feature sets, of any light on the market. And it is on sale for $25 at bangood 
*Discount codes and link deleted, Ive been informed Im not supposed to share.. sorry.. contact Freeme and M4D M4X and Pablo and Banggood
*. I ordered one 16 days ago, and just got a delivery notice.. to pick up tomorrow..

AAA is smaller than AA







Aluminum AA is 35% heavier than copper AAA 










Aluminum AA is 125% heavier than aluminum AAA (all w eneloop)





I dont have any AAA runtime issues, I carry spare AAA lights as battery carriers


----------



## gurdygurds

Jon love that copper Maratac with the shortened clip.......must..........resist.


----------



## jon_slider

gurdygurds said:


> Jon love that copper Maratac with the shortened clip.......must..........resist.


Thank you, resistance is futile
let me plant a seed








full disclosure, the Worm body will not light the Maratac head, the Worm body threads are too short





Bling!


----------



## turkeylord

I carry a AAA light daily as a backup. 200+ lumens with a 10440 is more than enough for daily tasks.


----------



## NutSAK

eraursls1984 said:


> The same argument you use for AA-AAA, I use for AA-18650. I find the SC62w to be barely bigger than any comparable AA light. The 18650 has over four times the energy of an AA or 14500.



Sure, I understand the energy logic. But saying AA is "almost the same size" as 18650 as you did, I can't agree with that, because 18650 occupies more than double the volume of AA. In reality, the size increase (in % volume) from AAA to AA is virtually the same as the size increase from AA to 18650.

Of course you're better off carrying the largest of the cells you feel comfortable with, at least runtime-wise, and I think that's the main variable. I personally find the difference between the SC62 and the comparable SC52 to be large for pants pocket carry. Likewise, I suppose other folks will find the difference between comparable AAA and AA lights to be large.


----------



## Repsol600rr

For a couple years a aaa microstream was my primary edc and it worked fine for many of my needs. Now I edc an 18650 and aa light as well but a aaa always comes along as well. They work great as backup lights because a spare battery does you no good if the light fails (however unlikely). They are a common cell so you can easily find a spare in a pinch. And at least my two (microstream, thrunite ti NW) have reversible clips to be used in conjunction with a hat should I need a headlamp and not have one. This last bit happened just last night when I was helping a friend clean the mess of a sewer back up and the light fixture in the area we were working had broken. My larger edcs don't have that ability. There are just times they are the better option even when something brighter and longer running is immediately available. And because of small size and useable outputs I will keep on edcing aaa lights.


----------



## jon_slider

jon_slider said:


> The Lumintop Copper Tool w Nichia is on sale for $25 at bangood w code e8b575


Just received with a broken box. I suspect that is why the price is discounted. I don't mind.


----------



## gurdygurds

AAA lights all around! I just ordered a TiS (stainless steel version) in neutral white from Illumn. I may be shooting myself in the foot because I've tried this light more than once and the threads were horrible on it. But a load of other people have good ones so I'm giving it one more shot. Also the great people at Illumn. said they would go through the lights and find me a solid one. We shall see! Congrats on more copper Jon


jon_slider said:


> Just received with a broken box. I suspect that is why the price is discounted. I don't mind.


----------



## jon_slider

gurdygurds said:


> the threads were horrible


My titanium thrunites were possibly even grittier. Polished the threads and it helped, but for the Ti, not enough. Hoping your SS brings a smile


proof of light


----------



## StorminMatt

NutSAK said:


> Sure, I understand the energy logic. But saying AA is "almost the same size" as 18650 as you did, I can't agree with that, because 18650 occupies more than double the volume of AA. In reality, the size increase (in % volume) from AAA to AA is virtually the same as the size increase from AA to 18650.



I think what he meant is that many AA lights are not much smaller than some 18650 lights. A good examole of this would the the Zebralight SC5 vs SC62/63. There really isn't much difference in size here.


----------



## gurdygurds

Jon is the patina on this Maratac just from normal use or did you do something specific to it to get that darker color?


jon_slider said:


> My titanium thrunites were possibly even grittier. Polished the threads and it helped, but for the Ti, not enough. Hoping your SS brings a smile
> 
> 
> proof of light


----------



## jon_slider

StorminMatt said:


> I think what he meant is that many AA lights are not much smaller than some 18650 lights. A good examole of this would the the Zebralight SC5 vs SC62/63. There really isn't much difference in size here.


it is easier to notice differences in weight than size. For example, an 18650 weighs as much as Two AA Eneloops.. By the same token, one AA Eneloop weighs as much as 2 AAA Eneloops..

So, an 18650, just the battery, weighs as much as 4 AAA Eneloops.. size does not inform as clearly what a huge difference there is in weight.. and thats before accounting for the weight of the bodies.



gurdygurds said:


> Jon is the patina on this Maratac just from normal use or did you do something specific to it to get that darker color?



Normal use. 
I do sometimes play with forced patina, I like to use Miracle grow to put green in the head knurling (none of the bodies have any forced patina). The green tends to wear off thought.





I periodically repolish the highlights on my coppers, particularly after playing with Patina (including after removing patina with vinegar, lemon juice, or ketchup). Sunshine Cloth is loaded with a type of Jewelers rouge, it creates a very high shine, that fades quickly.







on the left is the same ReyLight today, the green patina is almost gone, (beams from the same 3 lights below)





As a point of interest, the N219 Tool I just received is noticeably warmer than my ReyLight, or Wrom Nichias 
left to right, ReyLight Tool, Copper Wrom (factory typo), Copper Tool, all on Medium w NoPWM





I dont carry the Tool bodies, but I like to have one in the car.. atm the CarTool has a Maratac head on it with a gunga swap to ReyLight driver and 3000k XPG (top light in next pic)




the bottom light is the new Tool head on my April 2015 (wPWM) Maratac. The knurling has become simpler now (cost cutting, aka quality drift)


----------



## eraursls1984

NutSAK said:


> Sure, I understand the energy logic. But saying AA is "almost the same size" as 18650 as you did, I can't agree with that, because 18650 occupies more than double the volume of AA. In reality, the size increase (in % volume) from AAA to AA is virtually the same as the size increase from AA to 18650.
> 
> Of course you're better off carrying the largest of the cells you feel comfortable with, at least runtime-wise, and I think that's the main variable. I personally find the difference between the SC62 and the comparable SC52 to be large for pants pocket carry. Likewise, I suppose other folks will find the difference between comparable AAA and AA lights to be large.


I have the SC52 and 62. The head has a difference of about .03". Length isn't as big of an issue for me, but even that isn't much different. In my change pocket in jeans they feel fairly similar in size. Sure you can find mini AA twisties, but nothing that is comparable to my preferred light, the SC62, is drastically different in size. I do understand that we all have a different perspective, my main comment was really just to point out that others have similar sentiment about AA as the quoted text had for AAA.


StorminMatt said:


> I think what he meant is that many AA lights are not much smaller than some 18650 lights. A good examole of this would the the Zebralight SC5 vs SC62/63. There really isn't much difference in size here.


 Yep, but not even just the SC5, the SC52 has almost the same head size as the 62, and about .5-.75" difference in length. The 52 feels much smaller in hand, but feels nearly as bulky as the 62 in my pocket, which is really what matters.


----------



## jon_slider

this is an AAA thread 
Zebralight does not make an AAA light
Zebralight does not make a light with a Nichia LED
Zebralight does not have reversible pocket clip
Zebralight does not come in Copper, nor Titanium
Zebralights are Massively Heavy! The SC5 is even heavier than the SC52 and SC62

I suggest you guys start a thread titled, whats not to love about Zebralight 

You don't love the runtime of AAA?, You don't love the brightness of AAA? You don't love the small size and low weight of AAA lights? You don't love the low price of AAA lights? 
Then these are not the lights you're looking for, move along...


----------



## gurdygurds

^^^ AMEN BROTHER! I've tried to make a point to return to the lights that started it all for me now and again, just so I don't lose sight of what got me into this little hobby in the first place. Possibly the best touchstone for me is the good ol' Fenix E01. Yes, folks seem to either love them or hate them but for me they're here to stay. Small, simple, humble, rugged. I mod mine with some sandpaper to the led and reflector for a nice smooth flood beam, and also keep a white chapstick cap with black electrical tape around the sides in the nightstand for an impromptu moonlight mode. AAA :thumbsup:

image by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


----------



## gurdygurds

and here he is with my favorite "AAA" sized knife the Mini Tuff Lite.

image by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


----------



## CallMeDave

Here's some love to my Surefire Titan, with its centered attachment lug. I've got it connected with a split ring to an American made MINI-BAK Badge Retractor from KEY-BAK, and I clip it to my dress belt each morning with a freshly charged (if it saw use the day before) eneloop pro. 

I've heard that people who wear dress belts don't have a need for _real_ runtime or brightness, but I find having this little guy hanging ready at my hip during the workday to be invaluable and comforting.


----------



## jon_slider

A Case Peanut is AAA size too 








a 2.5" Vic Classic, Midnite Manager (pictured, and has a red LED too) or Rambler is even smaller







CallMeDave said:


> Surefire Titan
> ...
> I find having this little guy hanging ready at my hip during the workday to be invaluable and comforting.



A warm Holiday Welcome to another Happy AAA flasher


----------



## gurdygurds

Todays AAA carry.....

image by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


----------



## archimedes

I've carried quite a few different AAA torches over the years.

The photos above are just a couple of newer ones I've tried recently ....


----------



## jon_slider

Todays entertainment was to test a "green" filter (masking tape), on an XPL (middle) and an N219b (right, Lumintop tool head). the left is also N219b (reylight tool head)


----------



## Newguy2012

I receive mine with a perfect package. I think the shipper was probably rough with yours. I'm Loving the clicky action and knurling on the copper. Copper feels smooth and soft unlike the titanium. Thx for the sale link.


----------



## jon_slider

Newguy2012 said:


> Copper feels smooth and soft unlike the titanium. Thx for the sale link.


happy to share, I love mine too!

I agree the copper is polished smooth, I also like it better than the very coarse finish on the Titanium (radial machine marks over the knurling, like a Tain). Even previous Copper Tools Ive received were not as polished as this one. I also like that this one is a warmer LED, Im guessing closer to 4000k than previous.. All thumbs up!

The knurling is becoming less and less defined, and simpler to manufacture.. I like that it feels less sharp.

Here is the Tool 4000k 90CRI Nichia beam, in the middle, an excellent example of "neutral tint". On the left is a 3000k 90CRI XPL, on the right a 6000k 70CRI XPL


----------



## Newguy2012

Quite the LED collection you got there. How did you get 6000K? I don't think I can use pass 5000K. Is 6000k cool white? I think the smooth finish of the copper wear your pants less. I wonder if I can make a hole on my pant if clip it on and off with the titanium.:laughing:


----------



## jon_slider

Newguy2012 said:


> Is 6000k cool white?


Yes, 6000k is standard for cool white flashlights including Thrunite, Olight, and Maratac AAA lights Ive had. The Olight and Maratac got LED swaps to 3000k as the next step in my exploration.

I hate the 6000k now that I know its low CRI, and after learning about Nichias. I bought the 6000k Thrunite at the beginning of my LED accumulation and until today, when I turned it into a "green" beam light, it sat in my reject pile. Actually, the body made a nice host for the head of a worm, whose body I also rejected.





The Nichia Tool has ended up being the sweet spot between the two extremes of Cool and Warm white, for general use. Here is another view of my LED selection, the colors in the reflector when off can be fun to compare too. It also shows differences between size among different models of LED


----------



## fkrow

Archimedes.

The PK-PL2 is my current favorite AAA, I have the silver and black models.

PK is working on a clip for that light,,, dual pocket and hat brim design.
Hopefully early next year release for the optional accessory.

Regards,

FK


----------



## rjking

+1 My first thrower AAA. :thumbsup:



fkrow said:


> Archimedes.
> 
> The PK-PL2 is my current favorite AAA, I have the silver and black models.
> 
> PK is working on a clip for that light,,, dual pocket and hat brim design.
> Hopefully early next year release for the optional accessory.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> FK


----------



## gurdygurds

My Tis showed up today and I'm pleased! Super smooth threads with zero play. Heads have already been swapped and I think this is how they will be used at least for the time being. Worm head modded with Nichia 219 4000k will be paired up with the Tis body so I have a clip for my carry light, and the Tis head will be handling night stand duty paired with the worm body. The main draw of the AAA Thrunites are the firefly mode which I LOVE for middle of night use, and since I didn't love carrying the Worm body I think this will work. I'm satisfied with this setup.........for the rest of the day at least . Thanks Jon_Slider for the lego inspiration :thumbsup:

image by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


----------



## jon_slider

gurdygurds said:


> My Tis showed up today and I'm pleased! Super smooth threads with zero play.


Yay!
fwiw, my Titanium head will Not light on the Worm body
proof of NoLight





If your TiS head does light on your Worm body, You Win! (please show proof of light )


----------



## archimedes

fkrow said:


> Archimedes.
> 
> The PK-PL2 is my current favorite AAA, I have the silver and black models....



Thanks, and cheers ... it is a nice little AAA light


----------



## gurdygurds

Ask and ye shall receive. Not only do both lights lego perfectly, but the action on each of them when you mix parts is better than when they're stock. 


image by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


jon_slider said:


> Yay!
> fwiw, my Titanium head will Not light on the Worm body
> proof of NoLight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your TiS head does light on your Worm body, You Win! (please show proof of light )


----------



## jon_slider

gurdygurds said:


> Not only do both lights lego perfectly, but the action on each of them when you mix parts is better than when they're stock.


That Rocks! Very happy for your success


----------



## lightsandknives

VERY hard not to like AAA flashlights!

I've been on an AAA kick lately. Love their size for EDC when I don't want to carry something larger. There's always one on my keychain. Love my 18650 lights, my CR123 lights, but there's always something special to me about the AAA format and how cool they look!

Lumintop Worm copper Nichia 219
Lumintop Tool Ti XP-G2 (R5)
Prometheus beta QR V2 Nichia 219

Took the image on the hood of my truck which explains the lean of the lights.......




[/


----------



## ven

Few random AAA's and the odd 10440


----------



## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond

Nice collection Ven. I should do a group shot of mine.


----------



## TinderBox (UK)

I love my UltraTac K18 it has a side switch, I bought the Stainless Steel version, I liked it so much i bought a second one.






John.


----------



## easilyled

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Nice collection Ven. I should do a group shot of mine.



+1. Very impressive AAA (and other small lights) collection Mark.  .... and yes, it would be nice to see a group shot of yours Sean. :thumbsup:


----------



## jonathanjames

I have a Maratac AAA, it is great, but I'd love a tail clicky. It seems like lots of people are loving the Lumintop Tool? Will it tailstand? Or should I look at something like a DQG AAA?


----------



## kreisl

TinderBox (UK) said:


> I bought the Stainless Steel version, I liked it so much i bought a second one.



i have 3 of the SS version.

i win.

:kiss:


----------



## TinderBox (UK)

kreisl said:


> i have 3 of the SS version.
> 
> i win.
> 
> :kiss:



It`s a great price on the SS version it`s only slightly more expensive than the aluminium one, And the SS looks and feels amazing.

I was going to buy a brass one but i don't want to have to clean it.

Some guy took a faulty one apart, it looks like a good quality switch and a nice heatsink.






John.


----------



## wolfgaze

jonathanjames said:


> I have a Maratac AAA, it is great, but I'd love a tail clicky. It seems like lots of people are loving the Lumintop Tool? Will it tailstand?



If you get the Titanium Tool, that one can tailstand... Ask around about promo codes because for a while, sites like Gearbest/Bangood were selling these in the $30-35 range... Not sure if that's still active or not... Someone will know...


----------



## jon_slider

wolfgaze said:


> If you get the Titanium Tool, that one can tailstand...


yes
if you want a Low first, you can even get a ReyLight TiTool still.. I think.. check banggood, and also M4D M4X deals

what I like about the Tools in particular is the Nichia option, and the NoPWM circuit.. 
there are Nichia Tools in Copper, Titanium, and even a few in black Aluminum

The Copper and Aluminum Tool heads will interchange with a Maratac body, and vice versa. I prefer to pocket the Maratac, as its shorter, I keep the Tool in the car, its easier to use one handed.. (I dont clip to a pocket, and the tool is not very good at that, too much sticks out)





tools and maratac size reference, left to right, Maratac, TiTool, CuTool, L11c





the CuTool or AluTool tailswitch is easier to operate than the TiTool switch
I prefer the CuTool switch, more than I prefer the option to tailstand
but taste varies, and the TiTool is a very nice package, and it stays shiny
copper is my preference, but its not for everyone..

fwiw
you can still get a *Copper Tool w Nichia for $25*. 
​*Discount codes and link deleted, Ive been informed Im not supposed to share.. sorry.. contact Freeme and M4D M4X and Pablo and Banggood*


----------



## AVService

I am pretty happy with the Thrunite TI5t for $20 myself.
Mine is a NW tint and pretty nice and the beam is really diffused and great inside so far with a Moonlight,Med & High and decent runtimes.

In the pic:Eiger 219,TI5t.D25aaa,Maratac,Jetbeam Mini Ti

The Thrunite also has a Forward Clicky and a clip that won't fall off,it really resembles the original Preon in a lot of ways but is much nicer too.

I also Love the ET D25aaa and have carried that one a lot and they sell it in Nichia too but I couldn't wait when they first came out and mine is CW,not bad at all though.


----------



## jon_slider

jonathanjames said:


> I have a Maratac AAA, it is great, but I'd love a tail clicky. It seems like lots of people are loving the Lumintop Tool? Will it tailstand? Or should I look at something like a DQG AAA?


this aluminum tool w nichia has a magnetic tailcap option. It will tailstand, and still works as a twisty, there is no tailswitch in the magnetic cap.
https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Tool-AAA-Switch-Tailcap-Temperature/dp/B01DLMK0TE



AVService said:


>


thats a nice selection
thanks for posting photos




LightObsession said:


> I've been considering one of the Lumintop Tools with the Nichia. I don't need copper, so the black aluminum with the Nichia would do, if it was cheaper.


Amazon shows a Lumintop Tool Nichia in black, for $5 less than the copper version
https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Tool-AAA-Switch-Tailcap-Temperature/dp/B01DLMK0TE

These are not super bright, but they have excellent CRI and great runtime on low and medium for close range use, indoors, in a car, reading lables.. looking under the couch.. civilian applications..

enjoy


----------



## this_is_nascar

jon_slider said:


> this aluminum tool w nichia has a magnetic tailcap option. It will tailstand, and still works as a twisty, there is no tailswitch in the magnetic cap.
> https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Tool-AAA-Switch-Tailcap-Temperature/dp/B01DLMK0TE
> 
> thats a nice selection
> thanks for posting photos
> 
> Amazon shows a Lumintop Tool Nichia in black, for $5 less than the copper version
> https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Tool-AAA-Switch-Tailcap-Temperature/dp/B01DLMK0TE
> 
> These are not super bright, but they have excellent CRI and great runtime on low and medium for close range use, indoors, in a car, reading lables.. looking under the couch.. civilian applications..
> 
> enjoy


Where does one purchase this magnetic tailcap? I've not been able to find one.


----------



## jon_slider

this_is_nascar said:


> Where does one purchase this magnetic tailcap? I've not been able to find one.


here you go, my Google Fu is strong!


----------



## KiwiMark

In my opinion the area where LED really spanks incan hard is on the very small lights where efficiency matters so very much. Once I would keep a Maglite Solitaire on my keyring but it wasn't very bright and yet drained the AAA very fast. Now I use Eneloop AAA cells and on my keyring is an LED capable of over 100 lumens but also able to run lower modes for hours. This modern technology is brilliant!

I bought one of these on special: http://www.batteryjunction.com/titanium-illuminati-ca1-xp-g2.html it is a very nice light.

But the best value would have to be this one: http://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-A0...of-Keychain-EDC-LED-Flashlight-p-1026854.html
I'm impressed by this light, for ten bucks you get a Nichia 219B, choice of colours, very low mode, 102 lumens on high and for me an important UI feature - it comes on low first allowing me to preserve my night vision.


----------



## SnappyK

I love AAA too. Any suggestion for a Pen Light that runs on one or two AAA? I like it to clip on my front shirt pocket. I like high lumen in small size. The higher the better!


----------



## jon_slider

KiwiMark said:


> But the best value would have to be this one: http://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-A0...of-Keychain-EDC-LED-Flashlight-p-1026854.html
> I'm impressed by this light, for ten bucks you get a Nichia 219B, choice of colours, very low mode, 102 lumens on high and for me an important UI feature - it comes on low first allowing me to preserve my night vision.



did you get the old version with the word Manker on the Driver?
new version has PWM and next mode Memory



SnappyK said:


> Any suggestion for a Pen Light that runs on one or two AAA? … The higher the better!


*
High CRI:
Lumintop IYP365 EDC LED Portable Pen Flashlight*
*Discount codes and link deleted, Ive been informed Im not supposed to share.. sorry.. contact Freeme and M4D M4X and Pablo and Banggood**

High Brightness:
*ToolVN: http://skylumen.com/collections/v54-lights/products/small-clicky-need-spec


----------



## this_is_nascar

jon_slider said:


> here you go, my Google Fu is strong!


Thanks.


----------



## KiwiMark

jon_slider said:


> did you get the old version with the word Manker on the Driver?
> new version has PWM and next mode Memory



Oh damn, didn't realise they had changed it.
I guess I'd change my recommendation then to the Manker E01 (providing that it doesn't have 'next-mode' memory) which is still a reasonable price at $15.95.

My Astrolux seems to come on low each time, but I had bought a couple of spares on special and I've tried them - they seem to do the stupid 'next mode' thing.
That has to be the worst UI 'feature' I've ever seen, my cheap Meco zoomie does the same thing and I really hate it.


----------



## jon_slider

KiwiMark said:


> Oh damn, didn't realise they had changed it.
> I guess I'd change my recommendation then to the Manker E01 (providing that it doesn't have 'next-mode' memory) which is still a reasonable price at $15.95.



I respect your productive posting style, in offering an alternative.

fwiw the Copper A01 is on sale for $20 with code 2016FNL at banggood 

here is more info about the different versions of the A01





note the copper one has the Manker Driver that is the good one to get. Im not sure, but maybe the Copper A01 on Bangood now have the Manker driver?


----------



## Flint Hills

Are there many people still using Peak Eigers? I know the QTC can be finicky but it sounds like a nice setup to me. I've been trying to find a Nichia with no luck. Peak hasn't replied to my email about making one.


----------



## archimedes

Flint Hills said:


> Are there many people still using Peak Eigers? I know the QTC can be finicky but it sounds like a nice setup to me....



I used one for years, and would have no hesitation in returning to an Eiger for EDC.


----------



## Flint Hills

archimedes said:


> I used one for years, and would have no hesitation in returning to an Eiger for EDC.



What do you use now instead of an Eiger? Why did you switch?


----------



## archimedes

Flint Hills said:


> What do you use now instead of an Eiger? Why did you switch?



Switched to a UniVex AAA, mostly just for a change .... Having a clicky switch is convenient, but there is some trade off in regard to robustness.


----------



## gurdygurds

Flint I'm almost positive that Bob at em-mgt.com can ship you what you want. Go to the site and click chat now and ask him directly. I just got my first Peak and I'm sold. Oddly enough I've got it up for sale right now but that's just because I wasn't sure if I'd like it and now that I KNOW I DO, I want one in stainless steel. There's a good chance I'll just keep this one too.


Flint Hills said:


> Are there many people still using Peak Eigers? I know the QTC can be finicky but it sounds like a nice setup to me. I've been trying to find a Nichia with no luck. Peak hasn't replied to my email about making one.


----------



## Flint Hills

gurdygurds said:


> Flint I'm almost positive that Bob at em-mgt.com can ship you what you want. Go to the site and click chat now and ask him directly. I just got my first Peak and I'm sold. Oddly enough I've got it up for sale right now but that's just because I wasn't sure if I'd like it and now that I KNOW I DO, I want one in stainless steel. There's a good chance I'll just keep this one too.



OK, will do. Thanks for the info!


----------



## gurdygurds

Cancel that sir. I'm wrong on the Nichia. BUT, if you don't mind a warm tint the Hi CRI he has is great.


----------



## jon_slider

I have three 3000k AAA lights, an LMH, an MLH, and an MHL. This photo gives a good idea how Warm 3000k is, when acclimated to 6000k (all CCT look different at different white balance). Waking in the dark, the 3000k looks "normal", and the 6000k looks ridiculously blue.. "tint" perception is relative to frame of mind 

L-R, Stock Maratac 6000k, Stock Worm 4500k (same N219b as stock Tool), Maratac modded w LMH driver and 3000k High CRI XPG (same LED as Warm Eiger)





I EDC the Nichia, the Warm XPG is great for low light, nightstand, inside a camper late at night..
I dont use Cool white atm.. on a CRI kick..

ps, 
pm me if interested in an XPG modded Copper Maratac w stock MLH modes..


----------



## NutSAK

Flint Hills said:


> Are there many people still using Peak Eigers? I know the QTC can be finicky but it sounds like a nice setup to me. I've been trying to find a Nichia with no luck. Peak hasn't replied to my email about making one.



I use them frequently, but not with QTC. Mine are all single-level, #4 power. For me #4 is the perfect level for the brightness/runtime tradeoff and it's what Peak used to call "high power" or "H". I mostly use them as portable headlamps to clip to the bill of a cap. 

I've had a couple of Peak Nichias but, AFAIK, those were only available through Oveready. The QTC ones I've had have all been very unreliable and, to me, reliability is the the whole point of owning a Peak.


----------



## gurdygurds

I just ordered a stainless Eiger lug body with the new XPG3 emitter. I went with Level 2 on this one. I'm aiming to get around 10 lumens or so which should give me pretty good runtime. Hope to have it by the end of the week. I feel a AAA\Peak addiction beginning to form.


----------



## Flint Hills

Thanks for the replies everyone. Jon, thanks for the color temperature info and pics!

I wish there were a way to perfect the QTC in use. I understand it's a crude way of controlling electricity but surely it can be improved to be less jumpy and more stable? The QTC is really the most appealing part of the Eiger to me. I've read where people bought QTC squares online and added an extra one to smooth out the ramping.


----------



## KiwiMark

KiwiMark said:


> I guess I'd change my recommendation then to the Manker E01 (providing that it doesn't have 'next-mode' memory) which is still a reasonable price at $15.95.
> 
> My Astrolux seems to come on low each time, but I had bought a couple of spares on special and I've tried them - they seem to do the stupid 'next mode' thing.
> That has to be the worst UI 'feature' I've ever seen, my cheap Meco zoomie does the same thing and I really hate it.



The Manker E01 for $15.95 is a very nice light which doesn't have 'next-mode' memory and I'd highly recommend it, especially for people that like a light to come on ultra-low mode first every time. The Nichia emitter gives nicer light than most Cree emitters and 102 lumens on high is plenty capable for most tasks. Mine just arrived today and I'm pleased that the UI works as I expect it to.

Review: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?416443-Review-MANKER-E01-(Nichia-219-1x-AAA)

My copper Astrolux A01 hasn't arrived yet, I'll let you guys know what driver it has once I get it.


----------



## iamlucky13

Glad to hear your update that the changes were just to the Astrolux version, and not the Manker.

I suspect "next mode" memory was not intentional, but rather a sloppy design in whatever driver Astrolux switched to, such that drivers retains the last state far, far too long. I wonder if you kept track of the last mode used in the Astrolux, and tested it again hours or perhaps over a day later, if it would come on in the next mode, or finally have forgotten and come on in low.


----------



## jon_slider

KiwiMark said:


> The Manker E01 for $15.95 is a very nice light which doesn't have 'next-mode' memory
> ...
> My copper Astrolux A01 hasn't arrived yet, I'll let you guys know what driver it has once I get it.



Excellent info, thank you for confirming the Manker E01 has NoMemory, 

good luck w the copper Astrolux A01


----------



## KiwiMark

iamlucky13 said:


> I suspect "next mode" memory was not intentional, but rather a sloppy design in whatever driver Astrolux switched to, such that drivers retains the last state far, far too long. I wonder if you kept track of the last mode used in the Astrolux, and tested it again hours or perhaps over a day later, if it would come on in the next mode, or finally have forgotten and come on in low.



I think you are correct and the light I use every day does have this next mode memory but works fine every morning - I'll do some tests to find out how long it takes before it resets.
The Manker claims to remember for 10 seconds, I'm OK with that. 

But the Astrolux even a few minutes after turning it off will come on in the next mode which is really annoying. If you want medium mode (7 lumens) it is annoying to have it come on at 102 lumens. It makes sense that if it is on one mode and you turn it off and then on again you get the next mode - that is how changing mode works on these lights. What doesn't make sense is to use the light on one mode and turn it off again and then 5 minutes later turn it on and get the next mode - that would often not be what you wanted. The problem is worse with this light than with many others because the first mode is a very low firefly mode, people that buy the light because they like that feature might want to turn the light on to see but not be dazzled by bright light, then turning the light on again 5 minutes later they get dazzled by a much brighter light level.

Testing:
I tried 5 minutes after turning off my Astrolux - came on in the next mode.
I thought I'd see if it was 10 minutes instead of the 10 seconds it should be, forgot about it and then 35 minutes had passed (oops) turned it on and it was in the next mode!
If you are camping and in pitch blackness you want some light but not too much this might work great, but if you want to check something half an hour later this isn't the best light to use - even 7 lumens is far too much for dark adapted vision!

Edit 1: 4 Hours - Astrolux HAD reset and came on low, I'll try 2 hours and see what happens.
Edit 2: 2 Hours - Astrolux went to next mode.
So far it takes longer than 2 hours but less than 4 hours to go to firefly mode instead of the next mode after whatever you last used.


----------



## KiwiMark

KiwiMark said:


> My copper Astrolux A01 hasn't arrived yet, I'll let you guys know what driver it has once I get it.



I got my copper Astrolux - it has the Manker driver and the UI works good (yay).


----------



## jon_slider

KiwiMark said:


> I got my copper Astrolux - it has the Manker driver and the UI works good (yay).


glad to hear it
any other impressions you want to share are welcome

afaik this one also has the Manker marked driver
Copper Astrolux A01 $20
note the A0 is LMH 0.01/7/100
<begin my opinion>
and has a uselessly low low, and an impractical medium :devil: (ymmv)

and here is one of the best bargain deals w a Nichia, that I know of today</opinion>

Lumintop Anodized Black Tool w Nichia 219B $10.95
20/3/80 lumen MLH mode sequence (my preference

now, for my criteria, 
my top pick today, for a AAA, is the Copper Maratac w Nichia, same modes as the Tool w Nichia 20/3/80. It has every feature I look for. Efficient regulated driver, even on high, noPWM, twisty, tail stands, reversible hat clip, N219b, and Copper!


----------



## sbslider

jon_slider said:


> my top pick today, for a AAA, is the Copper Maratac w Nichia, same modes as the Tool w Nichia 20/3/80. It has every feature I look for. Efficient regulated driver, even on high, noPWM, twisty, tail stands, reversible hat clip, N219b, and Copper!


I second that recommendation.

But I will add that my Manker E01 with Nichia gets used daily (nighly actually) in firefly mode. We need a light you can set to start in firefly, or go back to the mode MLH mode sequence / levels of the Maratac as a second option. Sound like just a bit of firmware to me . . .


----------



## jon_slider

sbslider said:


> We need a light you can set to start in firefly, or go back to the mode ... levels of the Maratac



L08 4 mode w nichia fills that niche nicely 0.09/3/30/120
it also has a deeper than usual reflector, that works better for tail standing like a candle on a table without the LED being in line of sight
Check here use coupon code Freedom and get it for $13


----------



## sbslider

I may just bite on this one yet. I considered this light a month or two ago, and opted out do to what I perceived as poor reliability, and a pause on buying any more lights. I did break the pause in buying a Ti3 for about the same price. In hindsight maybe the L08 would have been a better choice. 

While I do like having firefly come on first during sleeping time, the rest of the time I prefer a MLH mode sequence. That's why I suggested a firmware mod. Not sure which of these relatively inexpensive AAA lights have firmware, but I do know many lights do. Seems like a mode change to starting on firefly vs ignoring firefly could be easily implemented in firmware.


----------



## kaichu dento

jon_slider said:


> L08 4 mode w nichia fills that niche nicely 0.09/3/30/120
> it also has a deeper than usual reflector, that works better for tail standing like a candle on a table without the LED being in line of sight
> Check here use coupon code Freedom and get it for $13


Thanks for the heads up Jon. Great deal and I've got a couple on the way now!


----------



## jon_slider

Stocking Stuffer *10440/AAA w N219b* on sale for $10 selfbuilt review...

Still my personal favorite: Copper Maratac w Nichia, Imo they are a good price atm.


----------



## gurdygurds

Well it's been year so time to bump this thread because I STILL love AAA lights. Probably my favorite type of light to use all around. I have a few good AA lights that are super functional but for overall FUN factor I gotta go with a little AAA twisty. Recently picked up an Olight I3S that I have been really enjoying. Never pulled the trigger on one in the past, (as well as a few other AAA lights) because I didn't think I'd like the mode sequencing. Turns out I like it just fine. I3S has been pulling keychain duty during the day and pulled off and tossed into the pocket for around the house use. It's been with me along with an E01 for a little taste test. Different beast than an E01 but I like it a lot. So come on people share your love of the little AAA lights. Here's a pic of my new friend...


Untitled by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


----------



## Rob Babcock

The I3S EOS is a sweet little light! In the AAA dept I've also come to really love the Petzl Tikkina as well. It takes 3 x AAA, has three output levels and does everything I need to do with a headlamp. The Low is powerful enough to be useful but low enough to give ridiculous runtimes while the HIGH output is plenty to navigate with at night and do camp chores.


----------



## Lynx_Arc

I don't "love" AAAs much these days but they are better.. much better than coin cells and button batteries hands down. In the past I've gone to AAs instead and now I'm more into 18650s as my eyes have gotten old and need more light and reading glasses the 30 lumens that was good in the past is now the 120 lumens of today and the runtime of 1-3 hours is too short so I went to 18650 battery technology and now my AAAs are in my pockets where 18650s are way too big and my AAA and AA lights sit by while I grab 18650s 95% of the time as I don't have to recharge them nearly as much better output and runtime with the cost of slightly larger than 3AAAs and more powerful and shorter than 2AAs.


----------



## xevious

gurdygurds said:


> Well it's been year so time to bump this thread because I STILL love AAA lights. Probably my favorite type of light to use all around. I have a few good AA lights that are super functional but for overall FUN factor I gotta go with a little AAA twisty. Recently picked up an Olight I3S that I have been really enjoying. Never pulled the trigger on one in the past, (as well as a few other AAA lights) because I didn't think I'd like the mode sequencing. Turns out I like it just fine. I3S has been pulling keychain duty during the day and pulled off and tossed into the pocket for around the house use. It's been with me along with an E01 for a little taste test. Different beast than an E01 but I like it a lot. So come on people share your love of the little AAA lights. Here's a pic of my new friend...
> 
> 
> Untitled by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr


I wish they still made the i3S and put a better emitter in it... I don't like the i3E that is still being made.

I'm still using an old Fenix L0D Q4 and it's holding up well. Access to the emitter is very easy, so I'm tempted to mod the emitter... just don't know yet what would fit.


----------



## Monocrom

I have an old Fenix L0D Rebel 80 version. Bought it back in the day. Will _never_ sell it. Leaving it stock. Has the longest actual-use runtime out of literally every light in my massive collection. Mostly because I tested it for 25 hours after learning about that whole emitter might come loose from the epoxy used to keep it in place scandal. Though after 25 hours of testing, it's clear I ended up with one made properly.

Love that light. One night while on the job, under miserable conditions, my stock Night-Ops Gladius failed on me. And rather miserably. Out came the L0D to tackle the job the Gladius clearly couldn't.


----------



## jon_slider

Monocrom said:


> Leaving it stock. Has the longest actual-use runtime out of literally every light in my massive collection



fwiw, changing the LED to High CRI will not alter the runtime, and it might even make it brighter

for example I have a Novatac, (similar LED design age to your L0D). With the stock P4 LED it was putting out 74 lumens max.. after an LED swap to N219b, it now puts out over 200 lumens on the same setting.. still the same runtime.. just more lumens, AND High CRI

with modern cool white LEDs, going to High CRI can actually lower the lumens by as much as 30%.. but it still will not alter the runtime


----------



## ZMZ67

I was ready to disagree with this thread initially when it started but instead I am forced to jump on board. So much to choose from now and often at very reasonable prices. Sure AA can do everything better but it just can't compete with the small slim AAA in the size category for single cell lights.The efficiency of LEDs allows AAA to be a viable power source and provide enough run time for EDC use. I can carry one CR123 in my watch pocket and almost all AA lights are too large for that. With AAA I can carry two lights in my watch pocket just as easily and still clip another AAA inside my front pocket with no discomfort. Not doing that with CR123 or larger lights,that extra width makes a big difference.

I still rotate my EDC but I have been carrying AAA a lot lately where I used to always carry only single CR123 lights. The variety of lights available and typically low prices make the single AAA an enjoyable option as an EDC.


----------



## AMD64Blondie

Love my brass Peak Eiger HiCRI.

(L92 lithium AAAs make a big difference..)


----------



## LeanBurn

...with the Sofirn C01 with the Yugi the love is ever expanding....

:grouphug:


----------



## phosphor22

LeanBurn said:


> ...with the Sofirn C01 with the Yugi the love is ever expanding....
> 
> :grouphug:



Yes lots of love for this seemingly modest little light! I have a couple of them both warm and cool on their way to me to join their siblings.


----------



## xevious

Monocrom said:


> I have an old Fenix L0D Rebel 80 version. Bought it back in the day. Will _never_ sell it. Leaving it stock. Has the longest actual-use runtime out of literally every light in my massive collection. Mostly because I tested it for 25 hours after learning about that whole emitter might come loose from the epoxy used to keep it in place scandal. Though after 25 hours of testing, it's clear I ended up with one made properly.
> 
> Love that light. One night while on the job, under miserable conditions, my stock Night-Ops Gladius failed on me. And rather miserably. Out came the L0D to tackle the job the Gladius clearly couldn't.


My L0D has been super trusty, still going strong (as you can see above). Good to know someone else around here still has one!
Incidentally, since you like cool tints, have you seen the Jetbeam μ "mu"? AliExpress has a great price on them. I'd added a Sofirn C01 light to my cart (it was about $8 USD) but then I saw the Jetbeam μ for like $10 USD, So just $2 more... and you get a solid mid-tier brand with 3 brightness modes and 135 lumens. I couldn't resist, I bought one. It came about 10 days after the Sofirn C01. Wow... it's VERY nice! Can't get over the size. It's even smaller than the Fenix L0D. Will have to take comparative photos.

The L0D UI isn't bad. Strobe & SOS is in the sequence but since there's no mode memory you can avoid it if you never go beyond High. I do like that it's there and have put strobe to use on occasion. The Jetbeam μ UI has L-M-H instead of M-L-H as in L0D and no strobe. However. the Jetbeam μ has mode memory! So if you used it on high and shut off, next time you start it, you're in high. The anodizing color is actually not black. It's a very, very dark brown. You can really see it next to a jet black anodized light. I like it.

If there's any gripe I have with it, it's that the screw threading isn't very wide. Because it's a twisty, you have to loosen a bit to turn off. But if you do more than 1/2 of a turn, a little bit of side pressure causes a slight "wobble". If you don't do enough of a turn, like 1/8th, sideways pressure can cause the light to momentarily come on. Just shy of 1/4 of a turn is "perfect". So, the "range" of rotation for off has to be a little more precise than on the L0D. Not a big deal, but worth noting.


----------



## Tachead

Yep, they make good backup or bedside table lights...




Left to Right:

Astrolux A01(4000K/90+CRI/Nichia 219B SW40 R9050)
Sofirn C01 BLF Edition(3200K/95+CRI/Yuji BC Series High CRI)
JetBeam Jet-U/Jetusolis(4000K/98+CRI/Nichia Optisolis P10)


----------



## Nichia!

Tachead said:


> Yep, they make good backup or bedside table lights...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Left to Right:
> 
> Astrolux A01(4000K/90+CRI/Nichia 219B SW40 R9050)
> Sofirn C01 BLF Edition(3200K/95+CRI/Yuji BC Series High CRI)
> JetBeam Jet-U/Jetusolis(4000K/98+CRI/Nichia Optisolis P10)





Thoughts about the jetbeam?


----------



## Tachead

Nichia! said:


> Thoughts about the jetbeam?


Pros:

- Nice quality host
- Three mode interface
- Excellent regulation
- Excellent colour rendering
- Fairly clean tint for 4000K(less muddy then most)
- Nice floody beam profile(good for close up tasks)
- Can tailstand
- Dual lanyard holes
- Nice mixture of knurling and grooves/channels

Cons:

- Low is not low enough imo
- Medium and High are way too close to one and other in output
- Last mode memory(subjective) 
- Tint shift even with the 30 degree diffusion optic
- Tint is very slightly greenish compared to more magenta samples like the 219B SW40 R9050(remember this is my sample and the tint lottery is likely still at work) 
- Mismatched anodizing between head and body
- High mode can be a bit finicky if head is not tightened quite tight(no issue with this with either the A01 or C01). 
- Clip is not terrible but, not great either

Overall it's nice but, the Astrolux A01's(mine are the original good ones) do a lot of things better and they are a WAY better value. But, they all have their pros and cons. I would like to try one in 4000K E21A now to compare to the Jetusolis. I suspect that the E21A models are a better option for most people.


----------



## jorn

I gave my copper astrolux to my nephew after one hour of play time. Pwm was terrible, next mode memory was terrible. My jetbeam is great, hard to beat for the money. The Jetbeam will make you smile with a 10440. Bought two jetbeams, and had no problems with head wobble.


----------



## jorn

My most used aaa lights. Flood to the left, throwy to the right. Tain p0, mako flood, univex aaa, tool ti (led swapped xpl hi 4000k). Lf2xt, tool ti with xq-e hi, illumination l08 with xq-e hi. The tiny xq-e hi led works really well with those small aaa refectors and will thighten up the beam a lot.


----------



## Nichia!

Beautiful lights [emoji106]🏻


----------



## jon_slider

jorn said:


> I gave my copper astrolux to my nephew after one hour of play time. Pwm was terrible, next mode memory was terrible. My jetbeam is great, hard to beat for the money. The Jetbeam will make you smile with a 10440. Bought two jetbeams, and had no problems with head wobble.



the NMM can be fixed with a pencil mod
it wont fix the PWM

did not know the Jetbeam was 10440 rated



jon_slider said:


> toddcshoe said:
> 
> 
> 
> I’d give it away if I wouldn’t feel so guilty about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol!
> Youre a good man
> 
> did you "try the pencil mod":https://imgur.com/a/pmSAI?
Click to expand...




lightboks said:


> got 3 last week. opened them up to do the pencil trick today. took 10 minutes for all 3 lights. Happy with the outcome. All lose memory after 3 seconds and return to firefly. before that with next mode memory as they came, they were basically unusable and a PITA. Now an instant favorite.
> 
> not sure if a 8$ light is acceptable if it has to be modded to work as it should.. but now mine is good.
> it is probably frustrating for a lot of non knowing people to get the brightness-lottery whenever they turn these on. I would never ever bought these lights if I had not read that I can hack them with a pencil to make them work like the original design.


----------



## jorn

The jetbeam is not 10440 rated. But have no problems using a 10440. Well except when you try to look serious, and the hi mode ruins it all because you cant help smiling. It's a serious flame thrower on hi, so use hi mode in short burst, 30 sek or so, or it will overheat.





Love how the xq-e hi led just disappear in the centering ring designed for a xp-g. It's a shame no one makes a stock aaa light with the xq-e hi. It's a fantastic led for small aaa lights. Tool ti xq-e hi 4000K vs tool ti xp-l hi 3200K. The domeless xp-l hi gives more or less the same beam as the stock xp-g. Difference in throw, is insane. So if you guys want a aaa with some reach, swap the led to a xq-e hi. It,s really no contest compared with other leds in therms of throw using those tiny aaa reflectors.





For even more throw i bought the old illumination L08. It pushes the nimh to it's limt and it uses a larger reflector, the same reflector as the aa version L10. Swapped the led with a xq-e hi and the beam becomes even more focsed. illumination L08 with xq-e hi vs tool ti with xq-e hi. Dont think it's possible to squeese more lux out of a aaa light using nimh.





All three.


----------



## thermal guy

Yes they are. I have a few. A copper tool and a Maratac oh an a Fenix and I like them a lot gone are the days that you have to feel lacking in power when you carry them. And runtimes are great as well.


----------



## Tachead

jorn said:


> I gave my copper astrolux to my nephew after one hour of play time. Pwm was terrible, next mode memory was terrible. My jetbeam is great, hard to beat for the money. The Jetbeam will make you smile with a 10440. Bought two jetbeams, and had no problems with head wobble.



The original Astrolux A01's(when they were released years ago)were much better and didn't have PWM or memory. This is what I have.

This Jet-U is nothing like the one you have. It is modded with a Nichia Optisolis, uses a totally different optic, has different mode spacing, and does not support 10440's. I have no problem with head wobble either.


----------



## jorn

I know the old version of the astrolux was good. Was hoping to get one with the old driver when i ordered mine a couple of years ago... but no luck.. Got the slow pwm, crappy next mode memory one... 

I liked the driver with memory on the jetbeam. Never have to twist past the lo mode i rarely use, so i kept that. The reason i bought the second jetbeam was to take the driver from it and put it into the astrolux. But it is a stacked driver, so it was no room for that driver in the astrolux. Too bad because i loved the astrolux copper host. Led is a different story. As a tint snob, my lights maby survive for a hour, or day with the stock led's before i change them out to something else. Only have some few lights with the stock led. The standard is i order a light, then i order some leds to try out in it, and hope they arrive the same day. Half the fun of the flashlight hobby is modding them. Even the extra lights in my car have had their led swapped. You know you're a tint snob when you're driving around with xh-p 50.2 4500K 92 cri in the high beam of your car.:thumbsup:


----------



## jon_slider

jorn said:


> You know you're a tint snob when you're driving around with xh-p 50.2 4500K 92 cri in the high beam of your car.:thumbsup:


that is very cool.. Im jealous 

some of my AAA lights:


----------



## xevious

My roundup of AAA flashlights... with Aurora A8 for size comparison (_proprietary hardwired battery_).







Forgot I have an Astrolux A01... as I don't use it much (a bit more heavy than I care for, to pocket EDC).












Incidentally, my one gripe about the Jetbeam U is the short span of screw threads. You can see how noticeable it is compared to the Fenix L0D:


----------



## Coppet

I'm a big fan of these small AAA/10440 flashlights and also carry one daily with me which I also use very, very often. As you can see I prefer flashlights made of copper, which are also very nice if you like copper:huh:
Since there are unfortunately not so many new copper AAAs left at the moment, I will probably have to switch to brass and titanium in the next time [h=1]



[/h]


----------



## Vemice

A few Peaks. 








Titanium.


----------



## jon_slider

thanks for the great photos xevious, Coppet and Vemice

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...Dim-Low-Mode&p=5071151&viewfull=1#post5071151


jon_slider said:


> here the TiXmas w XPL is on the right, an XPG in middle (olight i3s), Fenix E01 on left:



pm me if you want a link to a TiXmas on sale, they have NW too
I have a newfound love for Ti, now that I found a lube that kills the gritty feel, pm me for a link


----------



## xevious

^ You're welcome, Jon! And thanks for all your great photos, especially of the RRT-01



Coppet said:


> I'm a big fan of these small AAA/10440 flashlights and also carry one daily with me which I also use very, very often. As you can see I prefer flashlights made of copper, which are also very nice if you like copper:huh:
> Since there are unfortunately not so many new copper AAAs left at the moment, I will probably have to switch to brass and titanium in the next time


In AAA form, the added weight isn't all that much of a concern all things considered. But copper is inherently softer, so if you drop one of those beauties on a hard floor... heartache.


----------



## JimIslander

Except for my Tain Aurora, all my little AA and AAA lights are consumables. So dropping is not an issue (unless they break). Adds character!


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

One trick pony.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

Two AAAs that recently joined the family.


----------



## kimloris

Those 4Sevens are very nice.
Did you get them from the recent David Chow collection sale?


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

kimloris said:


> Those 4Sevens are very nice.
> Did you get them from the recent David Chow collection sale?



Thanks.  I'm kinda partial to them. Yes, they are the titanium prototypes - same seller, but from a different venue.


----------



## Monocrom

Chauncey Gardiner said:


> Two AAAs that recently joined the family.



NICE!


----------



## Nichia!




----------



## Coppet

xevious said:


> But copper is inherently softer, so if you drop one of those beauties on a hard floor... heartache.



Yes, you're right, luckily that was rarely the case until now and it always ended lightly or I could still catch the fall with my foot
But such a few quirks belong to a patina and I actually only use one AAA regularly for over two years now, my first Copper Tool that I have rebuilt here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/52749
And that's how she looks today, still pretty good, isn't it?


----------



## kimloris

Most of my AAA flashlights. 
I just love the form factor.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

Sweet collection, kimloris! :thumbsup:


----------



## Vemice

jon_slider said:


> thanks for the great photos xevious, Coppet and Vemice
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...Dim-Low-Mode&p=5071151&viewfull=1#post5071151
> 
> 
> pm me if you want a link to a TiXmas on sale, they have NW too
> I have a newfound love for Ti, now that I found a lube that kills the gritty feel, pm me for a link



Jonathan,
Thanks for the tip on the TiXmas. Just received one and really like it. Mice price too!!
It is a bit gritty as you mentioned.


----------



## Vemice

Update:
After playing with the TiXmas I realized that it has next mode memory which for me is unacceptable. I contacted Thrunite and apparently they made some "changes " to the light without reflecting it in their literature.
Just a heads up if anyone else is considering this light.
Too bad as I really liked it otherwise.


----------



## peter yetman

I've never heard of "next mode memory".
Does that mean that if you switch it off at level #2 it'll restart at level #3?
If it does, it's bonkers.
P


----------



## Vemice

Absolutely. It made no sense to me. I tried it several times over two days. When I contacted them, they agreed with me. They apologized for the "misunderstanding" and that the current literature does not indicate the change. I have their Ti3 and really like it. 



peter yetman said:


> I've never heard of "next mode memory".
> Does that mean that if you switch it off at level #2 it'll restart at level #3?
> If it does, it's bonkers.
> P


----------



## Lynx_Arc

Some lights you can disable next mode memory by using pencil lead across some of the capacitor chips on the circuit board.


----------



## Monocrom

I can understand Memory mode. But _Next Mode Memory_ is an idiotic feature that makes no sense, and that no one asked for.


----------



## jon_slider

peter yetman said:


> I've never heard of "next mode memory".



I wonder if the Pencil mod would work


----------



## Vemice

Sending it back.


----------



## Lynx_Arc

Monocrom said:


> I can understand Memory mode. But _Next Mode Memory_ is an idiotic feature that makes no sense, and that no one asked for.


I doubt it is a feature but rather a poor design and most likely the design is a penny cheaper than a non next mode memory circuit board and factories making these lights don't care if they work annoyingly they want that miniscule extra profit. 
The pencil mod is the cure for the next mode memory annoyance, else you would need to get a soldering iron out.


----------



## iamlucky13

peter yetman said:


> I've never heard of "next mode memory".
> Does that mean that if you switch it off at level #2 it'll restart at level #3?
> If it does, it's bonkers.
> P



Or worse, it could go from level #3 to strobe, if the light has one.


----------



## peter yetman

Ouch!
P


----------



## jon_slider

Lynx_Arc said:


> The pencil mod is the cure for the next mode memory annoyance, else you would need to get a soldering iron out.



thanks for that info
can you show a photo of which cap to pencil on a Thrunite Ti aaa?

speaking of other bad memory UIs
Folomov C1... wont memorize moonlight, so after using the shortcut, the next mode can be L, or M, or H, depending what was used last.. worst UI I can think of.. would much prefer the Olight UI, it has normal memory, and moonlight can be memorized, and is always followed by Low..

dont get me started.. lol


----------



## kimloris

jon_slider said:


> thanks for that info
> can you show a photo of which cap to pencil on a Thrunite Ti aaa?
> 
> speaking of other bad memory UIs
> Folomov C1... wont memorize moonlight, so after using the shortcut, the next mode can be L, or M, or H, depending what was used last.. worst UI I can think of.. would much prefer the Olight UI, it has normal memory, and moonlight can be memorized, and is always followed by Low..
> 
> dont get me started.. lol



I agree that the memory mode is weird on the C1 but I just always turn it on in ML by a 0.5s press and then cycle through the mode I want. 

From OFF: Press the tail switch quickly to access mode memory (memory will not remember moonlight or Turbo)
From OFF: Press and hold the tail switch for 0.5s to access moonlight mode, then press the tail switch quickly to access memorized mode.
From ON: From a memorized mode, press the tailswitch once to cycle modes in the following order: low->medium->high->medium->low

Obviously not ideal if you want to always start on High though. 
Not sure why Folomov made it so complex but glad there is a way that I can always start in Moonlight.


----------



## jon_slider

thanks kim, yes, there is a shortcut to moon in the Folomov C1 UI.. 

but the next click does not necessarily give Low, it can be Medium or High.. 

so I NEVER know what mode my folomov will turn on at, and I never know what mode will follow my use of the shortcut to moon.. since I dont remember what mode I used last in any of my flashlights (I have too many that I use)

so yes, using the C1 requires me to cycle ALL the modes, to figure out where I am in the rotation

fortunately, I dont have to live with my C1’s peculiarities, I have made plans to gift the light to a friend, just so he can experience the nice warm LED.. the UI is just terrible, but the LED is kind of nice 

its not really an AAA light though.. its only 10440

anyway.. I do like my AAA lights, particularly my copper tool w electronic switch

I also have a new Tool AAA w the pebbled TIR (and a high CRI LED swap).. I find the beam very useful for close use, and I like that the light is totally predictable, it Always comes on at Medium first, which I find very practical. The little single mode i3e is a popular gift.. sure to consume batteries quickly, Im getting 102 lumens on an eneloop…











here I include a pic of the Folomov, but no beamshot, the battery is dead, again, due to parasitic drain…





actually, who am I kidding.. gotta have a beam shot.. after a brief recharge of the Folomov C1 10440


----------



## Lynx_Arc

jon_slider said:


> thanks for that info
> can you show a photo of which cap to pencil on a Thrunite Ti aaa?
> 
> speaking of other bad memory UIs
> Folomov C1... wont memorize moonlight, so after using the shortcut, the next mode can be L, or M, or H, depending what was used last.. worst UI I can think of.. would much prefer the Olight UI, it has normal memory, and moonlight can be memorized, and is always followed by Low..
> 
> dont get me started.. lol



I have no clue which one, just do all of them and test it before you put the board back in the light to see if it works as I had to put more on my cheap light to get it to work the more you get on the capacitor the less memory time it has so you have to test it by switching modes with a pause of a second or so between them to see how long the capacitor holds enough charge.


----------



## Vemice

Just got these NOS Peak Eigers. Not sure about dating of the smooth body but it is SS with a Mule and another (for me) raw aluminum Mule.
Both with single mode level 4 warm output. One of these could be my near perfect night time light.


----------



## archimedes

Nice to see Peak still getting some attention on here


----------



## Vemice

archimedes said:


> Nice to see Peak still getting some attention on here



I look at them as modern ARCs and very close to my Sapphire with the ruggedness of the Fenix E01. Hard to beat that.


----------



## The Whispering Gallery

Fyi I just received a Thrunite Ti3 titanium from Amazon without next mode memory. Always starts on firefly. I also got a Glaree E03 which is nice and the mode order is LMH without memory. But low is way brighter than the 0.1 lumens in the description. Low is about as bright as low on a Lumintop. The driver also looks just like a Lumintop from the back.


----------



## jon_slider

The Whispering Gallery said:


> Fyi I just received a Thrunite Ti3 titanium from Amazon without next mode memory. Always starts on firefly.



thats great to hear
confusing, because Vemice bought from the same seller.

I hate conflicting reports on the same subject..

Enjoy you Ti!


----------



## The Whispering Gallery

jon_slider said:


> thats great to hear
> confusing, because Vemice bought from the same seller.
> 
> I hate conflicting reports on the same subject..
> 
> Enjoy you Ti!



Interesting. I actually bought two and returned one with particularly gritty threads and yellow tint. Neither had NMM though. I wonder if they accidentally used the wrong driver on some units?


----------



## jon_slider

I have found Munky Spunk to be really good at getting rid of the gritty Ti galling

yellow tint sounds like maybe you got a Neutral White.. 
Ive been amazed how yellow those can be in other lights
have not tried the Thrunite version

thanks for the info


----------



## archimedes

Simply because a manufacturer has chosen to use a "clever" product name doesn't mean that inappropriate and graphic posts are necessary 

Keeping the atmosphere here relatively clean is appreciated by many.

Thanks for your understanding.


----------



## iamlucky13

Looking at the latest beamshots jon posted, and the size comparisons, I really wish the Luxeon TX didn't have such a different footprint compared to the more popular flashlight emitters.

I'd love a little single mode twisty like the i3e, but with a 4000-4500K high CRI emitter.


----------



## jon_slider

iamlucky13 said:


> I'd love a little single mode twisty like the i3e, but with a 4000-4500K high CRI emitter.



You might have to make some compromises...

I found you Two lights smaller than the i3e, but they have 2 modes, found 2 single mode lights but they are not the CCT you asked for, and not as small as the i3e:

McGizmo Sapphire - 71.4mm, High CRI Yuji, 7 lumens, 5600k CCT (same as a Sofirn C01, which is nla)

Sofirn C01- 71.8mm, High CRI Yuji, 7 lumens, 3200k or 5600k CCT. I love the no hotspot aspheric Yuji beam, but these lights are only good at close range out to about 5'

Sofirn C01s -71.8mm High CRI 4000k, 2 mode 100/3 lm, have not tried it, photos show hotspot and spill beam

*I3e - 60.5 mm*, low CRI luxeon, 110 lumens, wide hotspot, almost no spill

DQG Tiny - 57.4 mm, High CRI, 2 mode 56/3lm I do not know the CCT, have not tried one, photos show hotspot and spill beam

Atom A0 - 55.9 mm, High CRI, .24/25 lm Hard to find, there is a Nichia version, not sure of the CCT. Personally I dont like a mule beam because if I tailstand it while sitting on a table, the sidelight stabs me in the eye (I prefer an aspheric beam)


----------



## Vemice

Don has the Sapphire also available in 3200K. I call it elegant simplicity.
Peak is no slouch either.


----------



## iamlucky13

jon_slider said:


> You might have to make some compromises...
> 
> I found you Two lights smaller than the i3e, but they have 2 modes, found 2 single mode lights but they are not the CCT you asked for, and not as small as the i3e:



I might have to consider the DQG tiny. 2-mode high/low is probably acceptable for the specific use I'm thinking of, and it's roughly as small as the i3E.

I'm already considering the Sofirn C01s, but it's noticeably larger.

I have and really like several of the original C01, but they aren't bright enough for inspection purposes at work. The same applies to the Sapphire, in addition to price (although I'd certainly love to have one).


----------



## jon_slider

another small 2 mode, also not easy to find
63.8mm
vollsion sp11


----------



## Buck91

archimedes said:


> Nice to see Peak still getting some attention on here



Just got my first Peak. Not at all impressed with the QTC. Not so much the flickering but I don't like having to screw the head down so dang tight! But the build quality is great and if its as durable as they claim it'll be a great BOB light.


----------



## jorn

jon_slider said:


> another small 2 mode, also not easy to find
> 63.8mm
> vollsion sp11


I love mine. Only thing is you got to keep the threads clean, or it might flicker a little. And i have not found a 10440 cell that fits. Problem is i cant turn it off with a 10440. it's a head tight for off, loosen for lo, loosen more for high ui. Got a warm white xm-l hi in mine.

[FONT=&quot]





[/FONT]


----------



## Monocrom

Buck91 said:


> Just got my first Peak. Not at all impressed with the QTC. Not so much the flickering but I don't like having to screw the head down so dang tight! But the build quality is great and if its as durable as they claim it'll be a great BOB light.



I like their offerings, but never bought any of their QTC models due to those two reasons.


----------



## Chauncey Gardiner

I decided it was very difficult to pass on a brass Preon. oo: I mean, I coulda done it. But I decided not to.


----------



## Sos24

I just got a Lumintop EDC01. I’m really liking the beam profile and 3 levels. I’m not sure I like the coming on at high.


----------



## kaichu dento

So ironic to me, that I joined CPF as a AAA-only user, and now never carry any of them. 

Slowly having my AAA collection dwindle, I even let my Steve Ku LF2XT go a couple years ago and now also planning on getting rid of my titanium Tain. Thought they were both such great lights but now find myself carrying nothing but a pair of HDS Rotaries and my copper Muyshondt Maus. 
One that I'll never get rid of though, is my last remaining Arc AAA. :candle:


----------



## longuylander

Sos24 said:


> I just got a Lumintop EDC01. I’m really liking the beam profile and 3 levels. I’m not sure I like the coming on at high.




I got one a few weeks ago, but mine actually has memory! I leave it in low mode, and when I turn it on again, it's still in low mode. It will cycle to high, then medium, then back to low. Am I the only one who got one with memory?


----------



## Coppet

In the German Flashlight Forum someone also reported that his new Lumintop Tool, the new version with Osram LED and TIR optics, is equipped with ModeMemory although there was nothing about it in the product description.


----------



## Lynx_Arc

Sos24 said:


> I just got a Lumintop EDC01. I’m really liking the beam profile and 3 levels. I’m not sure I like the coming on at high.



I had one of them and it came on at medium but does have mode memory. The problem I had is that if you leave the diffuser on it the top come unscrewed very easily in your pocket and mine got lost. I replaced it with a lumintop tool and every once in awhile it comes on in my pocket (rear clicky switch). So far it has held up. One thing that is interesting is when the battery is low high becomes a second medium mode.


----------



## Dreamer

longuylander said:


> I got one a few weeks ago, but mine actually has memory! I leave it in low mode, and when I turn it on again, it's still in low mode. It will cycle to high, then medium, then back to low. Am I the only one who got one with memory?



Mine has memory too, quite surprising though cause from what I read before this, this light always start on Mid mode.


----------



## LightObsession

longuylander said:


> I got one a few weeks ago, but mine actually has memory! I leave it in low mode, and when I turn it on again, it's still in low mode. It will cycle to high, then medium, then back to low. Am I the only one who got one with memory?



I just don't like the MLH mode sequence. I want to go to high from medium.


----------



## longuylander

LightObsession said:


> I just don't like the MLH mode sequence. I want to go to high from medium.



I agree; I much prefer L-M-H like the Fenix E05 (which has no memory, so it always starts in low). At least with memory, I can start my EDC01 in low, even if it goes to before medium.


----------



## LG&M

I still haven't found anything to beat the e05 overall. Wouldn't mind a updated version maybe with a nichia 219B


----------



## PartyPete

Alright, I'm about to pull the trigger on a new AAA light....for my wife!

Never noticed before but there is a *purple* Lumintop Tool AAA and I bet she'll love it. 

Seems like the general consensus is this is decent light?

Looks like there's a front flow ring, rear glow switch, removable magnetic base and a diffuser...so that looks good.


----------



## !mprovise

Absolutely like and use the AAA battery format. Started with a Arc AAA , then on to Fenix L0D , and this year moved to a PKDL PL2. Big fan of the high mode reach and low mode runtimes. It's survived more trips through the washer and dryer, and falls to concrete, than I care to admit.


----------



## gurdygurds

Just picked up the more recent Tool AAA with the pebbled tir lens and I really like it. Didn't realize it had memory but am very happy that it does. I'm not the biggest fan of med, low, high although I've dealt with it on other lights that I like for other reasons. The clicky feels different than the older models as well. I like this newer one better since it's not as loud as I remember the old model being and has a better tactile feel to it. It would be outstanding with a warmer hi cri led in it like Jon Slider showed earlier in this thread. I feel a little personal AAA renaisaance coming on.


----------



## jon_slider

gurdygurds said:


> Just picked up the more recent Tool AAA with the pebbled tir lens and I really like it.



Congrats
I find the Tir very useful. Makes it much easier to take photos... 

pm me if you need a link to a Cu or Brass Tool w Nichia and eSwitch ;-)
they are LMH btw


----------



## Lynx_Arc

jon_slider said:


> Congrats
> I find the Tir very useful. Makes it much easier to take photos...
> 
> pm me if you need a link to a Cu or Brass Tool w Nichia and eSwitch ;-)
> they are LMH btw


Going from a fenix LD01SS to the lumintop tool AAA the TIR reduces output at a distance but the 120 lumen output helps it out vs the 65+ lumen output of the fenix on high. What I find odd is that they give you a diffuser and you don't need it as much with a TIR than a reflectored light.


----------



## J Smith

I didn’t go back to far to check if anyone was having trouble with the Maratac rev 6 copper aaa. I just got mine in the mail and at first thought there was something wrong with it as the brightness modes seemed to be all over the place. I even emailed Countycomm about it. After seeing some of the posts about memory I think that is what I am seeing in mine making it seem like the brightness modes are messed up.


----------



## J Smith

Yep,it does have memory at least for a while. Comes back on at the level it is turned off at but resets to M L H after sitting a while.


----------



## bykfixer

Whatz not to love about 100 lumens from a keychain sized flashlight?


----------



## defloyd77

Lynx_Arc said:


> Going from a fenix LD01SS to the lumintop tool AAA the TIR reduces output at a distance but the 120 lumen output helps it out vs the 65+ lumen output of the fenix on high. What I find odd is that they give you a diffuser and you don't need it as much with a TIR than a reflectored light.



The diffuser that comes with it is a 3D diffuser, which had different uses than a flat, 2D diffuser. Reflectors or optics have no effect on the need on a 3D diffuser as they are more for lantern type use, so really, it's modd they include it with lights that can't tall stand.


----------



## defloyd77

jon_slider said:


> Congrats
> I find the Tir very useful. Makes it much easier to take photos...
> 
> pm me if you need a link to a Cu or Brass Tool w Nichia and eSwitch ;-)
> they are LMH btw



That place has a 20 dollar of coupon for new members, I just ordered a copper for 10.50! It'll be my first copper light.


----------



## longuylander

defloyd77 said:


> That place has a 20 dollar of coupon for new members, I just ordered a copper for 10.50! It'll be my first copper light.




I just did the same! I wish the copper one could have a split ring attached to it. I've been carrying a Sofirn C01S on my keys but would consider swapping this in if I could.


----------



## jon_slider

longuylander said:


> I just did the same! I wish the copper one could have a split ring attached to it.



congrats
it does work with a split ring too


----------



## Sos24

AAA lights are really nice. My current favorites are Fenix E05 and Lumitop EDC01.

The Prometheus Beta is tempting me lately and may be my next AAA light purchase.


----------



## jon_slider

Sos24 said:


> The Prometheus Beta is tempting me lately and may be my next AAA light purchase.



A Copper Beta was my first High CRI light. They are made by Lumintop, as is your EDC01 (but it is not offered in High CRI). The Lumintop Worm is also the same body style, and came in High CRI, but those are NLA

The Beta does have a unique quick release tail feature, though I found I did not like to have an AAA light on my keys.. ymmv

Lumintop also makes the Maratac, and the Tool, both of which are also available in High CRI (Nichia 219c)

Another light that uses Lumintop electronics is the Frelux Synergy. 

These Lumintop based lights are all basic 3 mode AAA lights with similar lumen levels. The Frelux is a 2x aaa, as is the Lumintop IYP 365 (which is also available in Titanium).

There are some variation, some are LMH, some are MLH.. some have electronic switches that are silent, some have mechanical switches that are loud, and some are just twisties... choices are good


----------



## Burgess

Thank you, Jon_Slider, for that information.

I really LOVE Lumintop !


Tell me --
Do they also make the Reylight Pineapple (1xAA) lights ?


----------



## elzilcho

jon_slider said:


> A Copper Beta was my first High CRI light. *They are made by Lumintop*, as is your EDC01 (but it is not offered in High CRI). The Lumintop Worm is also the same body style, and came in High CRI, but those are NLA
> 
> ...



That information is out of date and no longer correct. Jason has unequivocally stated that Lumintop made the original Betas but he stopped using them some time ago. The Betas available for purchase today are NOT made by Lumintop. https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...eon-P1-MKIII&p=5269655&viewfull=1#post5269655


----------



## jon_slider

Burgess said:


> Do they also make the Reylight Pineapple (1xAA) lights ?



I have not compared, you would be able to tell by looking at the drivers
I do think the AAA version looks like the same planform as the worm/beta/edc01

but I dont actually own any Reylights.. so I cant check for you.. 

historically though, the first Reylight was a copper Tool w Nichia.. so I would imagine he has continued his manufacturing relationship w Lumintop.


----------



## Buck91

jon_slider said:


> A Copper Beta was my first High CRI light. They are made by Lumintop, as is your EDC01 (but it is not offered in High CRI). The Lumintop Worm is also the same body style, and came in High CRI, but those are NLA
> 
> The Beta does have a unique quick release tail feature, though I found I did not like to have an AAA light on my keys.. ymmv
> 
> Lumintop also makes the Maratac, and the Tool, both of which are also available in High CRI (Nichia 219c)
> 
> Another light that uses Lumintop electronics is the Frelux Synergy.
> 
> These Lumintop based lights are all basic 3 mode AAA lights with similar lumen levels. The Frelux is a 2x aaa, as is the Lumintop IYP 365 (which is also available in Titanium).
> 
> There are some variation, some are LMH, some are MLH.. some have electronic switches that are silent, some have mechanical switches that are loud, and some are just twisties... choices are good




I love the Lumintop worm! Nice, bright stainless steel with just the right amount of heft. Impressively bright with XPG. In fact I just swapped my XPG to a SST-20 and am VERY happy with the results. It gets rotated in my EDC with a L3 L08 and a Thrunite TI XPL (which I swapped the NW to a 3000k 80cri XPL)... So far its a real toss up between them. I like the light weight compactness of the Thrunite, but I love the stainless Worm... but the L08 feels very nice in the hand with the slightly larger size and the oversized head.


----------



## jon_slider

Buck91, I share your experience w Worm, Ti Ti3 and L08 (a Great 4 mode twisty).

I also enjoyed using my Worm and Beta heads on my Ti Ti3 body:


----------



## archimedes

That looks like a really nice "lego" torch, j_s :thumbsup:


----------



## jon_slider

archimedes said:


> That looks like a really nice "lego" torch, j_s :thumbsup:



thank you 

LegoRus


----------



## defloyd77

Just got an email from Drop, seems there's been a labeling mixup with the emitter types and people have been getting the wrong ones. Haven't gotten mine yet, so I don't know if mine is going to be the wrong LED, but they will provide a free return shipping label and a 10 dollar credit.


----------



## LightObsession

Just ordered the Jetbeam SE-A01 (with two-way pocket clip), Folomov EDC C1 aluminum and brass on Black Friday sale at Battery Junction.

The SE-A01 appears very similar to my Factor Equipment Mizpah 130, but has a different UI.

Yes I know that the C1s are 10440, rather than AAA.

All of these will compete for hat brim duty.


----------



## LightObsession

I also have a Massdrop aluminum Tool with Nichia 219C on the way.


----------



## Burgess

defloyd77 said:


> Just got an email from Drop,
> seems there's been a labeling mixup with the emitter types
> and people have been getting the wrong ones.




I'm the one who first brought this foul-up
to the attention of MassDrop.
< sigh >

I ordered two Nichia Copper AAA's,
and received two Cree versions, instead !
< grumble grumble >

MassDrop customer service was VERY PROMPT
and helpful ! I chose NOT to return the items.

Am Keeping them, and getting refunded
10 dollars each for compensation.

Excellent customer service by MassDrop !


:twothumbs
_


----------



## Paul6ppca

Burgess,
I am in the minority. I would choose the cree. PM me if you want to get rid of one. If not no worries.


----------



## defloyd77

Just got mine today and sure enough, Cree LED.:green: I messaged them asking how a refund will be handled since I used the 20 dollar credit and if an exchange is possible, they don't mention exchanging in the email they sent about the mix up. I will let you all know what they say.


----------



## Burgess

When I looked at MassDrop yesterday,
it showed NO more coppers in stock.

In EITHER emitter !

Guess THAT settles it !


_


----------



## defloyd77

Burgess said:


> When I looked at MassDrop yesterday,
> it showed NO more coppers in stock.
> 
> In EITHER emitter !
> 
> Guess THAT settles it !
> 
> 
> _



I got an email from Massdrop saying they still had a few and may be able to exchange, possibly from other returns that aren't taken into account on the site? We'll see how it goes I guess, but I'm happy with Drop's handling of this for the most part, quick responses and the 10 dollar credit. 

I am curious though, I wonder though, it of all of the people who got the wrong LED, what are the percentages for each of the LED that decided to keep?

EDIT: After dropping off my light to a UPS dropbox and notified them of it, I got an e-mail 20 minutes later saying they confirmed that it has shipped and have submitted a request to their warehouse for a replacement to be sent. 

I must say I am very impressed with with Drop's customer service and quick replies.:twothumbs


----------



## jon_slider

Ordered Cu Tool aaa w Nichia
(I had one from a few years ago and wanted a spare)

received XP-G3 after 21 days
(I dont mind, as I bought the light as a host for modding, and even if it had come w the 219c as ordered, I would have changed the LED to 219b that I prefer)

the return address says
CVG Returns
Hebron KY

that was never one of the locations given by tracking
....






inserted a partly depleted Eneloop pro at 1.22 volts

.5 lumens max on start, for all 3 modes

after 10 minutes low is 3.8 lumens, medium 31.6 lumens, and 40 lumens maximum

after 20 minutes low is 3.8 lumens, medium 31.6 lumens, and 70 lumens max

after 30 minutes low is 3.8 lumens, medium 31.6 lumens, and 77 lumens max

I wonder if my eneloop is too discharged
inserted a partly depleted eneloop @ 1.29v
produced 102 lumens max

_after 40 minutes 112 lumens max_

end test.. 

=======

*lumen specs*

CREE XP-G3 LED


•	Low mode: 5 lumens

•	Medium mode: 32 lumens

•	High mode: 110 lumens

===
*tint observations*
typical XP-G3 yellow/green corona around the hotspot
negative R9 CRI makes red things look brown
Cool White, guesstimating 6000k, looks greenish blue compared to my pink sw45k






===
*conclusion*
*it takes 40 minutes to charge up the SuperCap* so it can fire maximum mode
at 1.22v there is not enough power to exceed 80 lumens max
at 1.29v there is enough power to achieve 112 lumen max

The new tailswitch is MUCH more difficult to activate than the one on my older model.


----------



## defloyd77

Just received my replacement copper Drop AAA with the Nichia LED, much better! :thumbsup:

That Cree really is something awful!


----------



## longuylander

I like the brightness of the Cree (I did order the Nichia but got the wrong one), but oh my is that green halo around the hot spot disgusting looking...


----------



## mikekoz

I know I am in the minority here, but I actually find it easy to not like AAA's!  I associate AAA batteries with cheap flashlights (the ones made with the battery holders) and I just find the ones that take one cell too small for my taste. I actually pocket a few AA lights, including my Nitecore D10 which I have carried for years. If I wanted to carry a real small light, I would do so with my Zebralight SC52, but I even find that to be too small!! I also have a stockpile of AA NIMH cells. I probably should actually start a thread called "Hard To NOT love AA's!"


----------



## Lynx_Arc

mikekoz said:


> I know I am in the minority here, but I actually find it easy to not like AAA's!  I associate AAA batteries with cheap flashlights (the ones made with the battery holders) and I just find the ones that take one cell too small for my taste. I actually pocket a few AA lights, including my Nitecore D10 which I have carried for years. If I wanted to carry a real small light, I would do so with my Zebralight SC52, but I even find that to be too small!! I also have a stockpile of AA NIMH cells. I probably should actually start a thread called "Hard To NOT love AA's!"


I think many of us love AAA format due to its size and very common battery type. AA is a lot bigger and when you are have a lot of stuff in your pocket that extra size can be a big minus. I have a AAA on my keychain and use it on occasion. A AA sized light would be more bulk and that means more to be rubbed on by my 25 foot large tape measure.


----------



## Burgess

I really like AAA single-cell flashlights,
but agree they're difficult to hold sometimes.

I always attach one of THESE 
handy elastic hair loops ,
and then slip it onto one of my fingers.

Works GREAT for me !


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3R28C6/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## jon_slider

some of my favorite hosts for High CRI LED swaps:


----------



## kaichu dento

Been carrying an Arc AAA the last couple of days and I'll never stop liking them.


----------



## ma tumba

Maybe a bit of offtopic but I very much regret that there has not been much of development in aa/aaa drivers. The only one fully programmable one is the Calipsoii's AA driver, which seems to be not available for purchase as a separate part. Of course an infinite variable rrt-01 version for aaa/aa would be ideal, but I doubt that this kind is within reasonable reach.


----------



## Coppet

ma tumba said:


> Of course an infinite variable rrt-01 version for aaa/aa would be ideal, but I doubt that this kind is within reasonable reach.



:thanks:


----------



## Lynx_Arc

ma tumba said:


> Maybe a bit of offtopic but I very much regret that there has not been much of development in aa/aaa drivers. The only one fully programmable one is the Calipsoii's AA driver, which seems to be not available for purchase as a separate part. Of course an infinite variable rrt-01 version for aaa/aa would be ideal, but I doubt that this kind is within reasonable reach.



Probably because the size of the driver ends up mostly being smaller and often requiring the addition of a boost circuit and if high output is desired the inductor can get a lot larger.


----------



## ma tumba

Lynx_Arc said:


> Probably because the size of the driver ends up mostly being smaller and often requiring the addition of a boost circuit and if high output is desired the inductor can get a lot larger.



Well, Calipsoii made one and Zebralight has some, so we know they are possible. I think it is more because of lack of motivation.


----------



## jon_slider

ma tumba said:


> Calipsoii made one


that is a programmable 14mm driver for AA (an AAA requires 10mm).. it is not infinitely variable, and programming requires a bunch of special tools... definitely not a magnetic control UI. Zebras dont make an AAA either.

now back to AAA
The calipsoil aa project is most similar imo to the programmable AAA Manker E02, that recently went on half price sale. 

they offer an AAA Titanium version w a High CRI LED too...

speaking of AAA lights I enjoy:

Changed the xp-g3 in my drop Tool to 3500k e21a, very happy about that.
Received another xp-g3 drop Tool, pending LED swap...


----------



## BarryNYC

Maybe Zebralight will read this thread and make us a AAA light. No harm in wishing.


----------



## LightObsession

BarryNYC said:


> Maybe Zebralight will read this thread and make us a AAA light. No harm in wishing.


Their switches are too big for AAA lights.


----------



## skid00skid00

I thought you guys were nuts...

Got my UltraTac K18 a few days ago...

...love it.

With firefly, it would replace my ZL SC52. Or programmable! OMG!


----------



## BarryNYC

LightObsession said:


> Their switches are too big for AAA lights.



Quite right. But, maybe a Zebralight AAA light would be as small as the smallest AA lights (or even a tad smaller), and that would actually work for me.


----------



## Mike89

For me, I have 4 and don't need or want any more.

Smallest size twisty single mode Olight i3E EOS (the one I actually carry the most),
Brightest of the bunch Olight i3T EOS.
Lumintop Tool AAA (best beam for up close working on stuff, wished it had memory like it's big brother Tool AA).
Sofirn C01S twisty two modes.


----------



## jon_slider

Mike89 said:


> Lumintop Tool AAA (best beam for up close working on stuff, wished it had memory...



fwiw, the new black aluminium aaa Tool w Tir produces an even better beam up close, and it has memory:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...s-these-days&p=5347195&viewfull=1#post5347195


gurdygurds said:


> Just picked up the more recent Tool AAA with the pebbled tir lens and I really like it. Didn't realize it had memory but am very happy that it does.













a bit more about the Copper AAA Tools...
I bought some small tritiums for testing, along with the clear Norland glue and UV curing light mixglo sells.

I chose this size
T13 0.95x3mm Vials
so I could try both blue and green
https://www.mixglo.com/store/p124/T13_0.95x3mm_Vials.html






I can barely tell green and blue apart in the middle of the night with my glasses off... my eyes just see the blue as dimmer…

if I did it again, I would probably just order this slightly shorter green (only) version:
https://www.mixglo.com/store/p112/T0924G_0.9x2.4mm_Vials.html
on such a small size, the color is less relevant than the brightness, to me.

This is my first experience installing trits. So far, so fun…

the installation does not prevent me using the keyring hole still, though I dont use AAA lights on my keys.


----------



## The Hawk

I agree. AAA lights are great. I EDC a Lumintop Tool AAA. I keep an extra AAA battery in my pocket.


----------



## jon_slider

The Hawk said:


> ... I EDC a Lumintop Tool AAA. I keep an extra AAA battery in my pocket.



nice
fwiw there are some battery lockers available
I wish I knew where to find them for less, but I like how well they work, price aside




but then I also like to have spare lights... as spare battery carriers.. lol

you can see the Olight is smaller than the spare battery carrier.. hmmm which to take.. ;-)
both!


----------



## Lynx_Arc

The Hawk said:


> I agree. AAA lights are great. I EDC a Lumintop Tool AAA. I keep an extra AAA battery in my pocket.


I keep 2 extra batteries in my other pocket in a UK2AAA LED light (L92 Energizers).


----------



## PartyPete

At the end of every holiday season I like to play what I call "Amazon gift card roulette" and buy a new light with whatever small gift card balance I have left over. Could be $20, $40, whatever. 

This year I had a hankering for a small AAA clicky....with $10 and some change. Oh and shipped free as well I considered a few twisty ones but decided to try something totally different - Aidier A8. 

I'm not sure if this is an offshoot of the UltraTac brand but it appears to be a little similar to the UltraTac A7. 1x AAA with 3 modes, tail switch and max 180 lumens. Takes 10440 cells also. 

I have no expectations or any idea what to expect but we'll see in a week or so.


----------



## jayflash

Is the Olight EOS, or similar, still available? I'd like to use 10440 cells sometimes.


----------



## Blade Protection

I have been looking at a few of those different lights on MassDrop and was wondering if they were any good. Good to see some chatter about them in this thread so I can see some real world hands on experience of other light users with them. Gives me a bit more confidence to go ahead and grab one to give it a try.


----------



## defloyd77

Blade Protection said:


> I have been looking at a few of those different lights on MassDrop and was wondering if they were any good. Good to see some chatter about them in this thread so I can see some real world hands on experience of other light users with them. Gives me a bit more confidence to go ahead and grab one to give it a try.



Unfortunately the 20 dollars of for new members deal is now only good on purchases of 50+ now and on on Drop Studio items. Don't know if it'll work on multiple less than 50 items totaling 50+ dollars though.


----------



## PartyPete

My Aidier A8 came in the mail the other day. I'm guessing this must be a fairly new model, they aren't many reviews yet. 

Similar specs to the UltraTac A7, just a different body design. Single AAA or 10440 powered, rear tail switch, 180 lumen max (with AAA). Comes with a clip, key ring, spare rings and GITD diffuser and 1 AAA cell. 

Build quality appears good; threads are smooth, LED is centered etc. Typical full press for off/on and half press to cycle through the 3 modes. Unfortunately strobe is in the main mode sequence, so that might be a deal breaker to some. 

Similar beam profile to the Tool, Fenix E12 etc. Medium size flood type beam with just a little throw. Cool white tint but leaning more towards the neutral end of things with just a bit of blue to it. 

Very much your basic AAA light...but it does great with 10440. Comparing it with other lights I have I'm guessing it's putting out around 400+ lumen on high with a lithium cell. 

I really wish strobe was hidden, it had a moonlight mode and then it would be a bit better. However being able to take 10440 in a small rear clicky light is fun nonetheless...and it's only $10 shipped.


----------



## Cyclops942

jayflash said:


> Is the Olight EOS, or similar, still available? I'd like to use 10440 cells sometimes.



Olight still sells the EOS, but you’ll fry it by putting a 10440 in there.


----------



## nitebrite

For the last 5 or so years I carried a AAA Maratac and a 1.6" knife. They served me well. A few days ago I "upgraded" to custom flashlight that is 3.1"x.9 and custom knife that is 4.4"x.4"(closed) inside my pocket. I really am missing the pocket "real estate" but on the other hand enjoying my new capabilities. The jump in performance for (both) is huge. I can really feel this though being a little guy. The only reason I don't want to go back is because these are custom made. Actually, it is the knife that is very special and should get me arrested anywhere but I have concealed carry. I am very discreet anyways. I don't really "need" either of them. I might just go back. The Maratac, even though not made in USA as he says is a very nice light.


----------



## CaptainBrock

OK, I guess someone has to love them. They are just so weak in terms of watt-hour capacity per dollar. But they do beat coin cells for the tiny lights.


----------



## LeanBurn

I rarely use anything more than 20L for the past couple of years. AAA has plenty of life for my use. I just love that they are so small and practical to fit anywhere.


----------



## F250XLT

Well, this thread certainly did have some legs, although it's a shame that so many great pics were lost.

Now that I'm back, I'm very interested in putting some AAA's back on the shelf. I’m sad to say, this is all I have left at this point.


----------



## jon_slider

F250XLT said:


> I'm very interested in putting some AAA's back on the shelf.



I recommend the CuTool from drop.com





Im also a big fan of the CuMaratac


----------



## F250XLT

jon_slider said:


> I recommend the CuTool from drop.com



CREE or Nichia? :thinking:


----------



## jon_slider

F250XLT said:


> CREE or Nichia? :thinking:



Low CRI or High CRI?


----------



## F250XLT

jon_slider said:


> Low CRI or High CRI?



They have an option for 219C, went that route, it's on it's way.


----------



## jon_slider

F250XLT said:


> 219C



good call
I hope you love it as much as I do

Note:

The eSwitch arrives with a discharged capacitor.

When first inserting a battery, medium and high modes will not operate at full brightness.

It takes about 1 hour, after you insert a battery, for the medium and high modes to trigger properly.. its normal.. As long as the light has a battery inside, the switch works as intended... and this consideration becomes a non issue

re 10440, 
Lumintop does not rate the eSwitch for 10440.
I do not use 10440, and recommend against it, just sharing info.

For those feeling lucky, word on the street is that the eSwitch only provides 1 mode on 10440, at Maximum Brightness. The other two lower levels start working only after the LiIon drops below 3.8v...

re pocket clip upgrade:




the preon 2 fully captive pocket clip is a worthy upgrade, if youre into clips, pm me for a link where to buy, if you cant google it
it only works under the tail, not under the head (unless modded)


----------



## F250XLT

jon_slider said:


> good call
> I hope you love it as much as I do
> 
> Note:
> 
> The eSwitch arrives with a discharged capacitor.
> 
> When first inserting a battery, medium and high modes will not operate at full brightness.
> 
> It takes about 1 hour, after you insert a battery, for the medium and high modes to trigger properly.. its normal.. As long as the light has a battery inside, the switch works as intended... and this consideration becomes a non issue
> 
> re 10440,
> Lumintop does not rate the eSwitch for 10440.
> I do not use 10440, and recommend against it, just sharing info.
> 
> For those feeling lucky, word on the street is that the eSwitch only provides 1 mode on 10440, at Maximum Brightness. The other two lower levels start working only after the LiIon drops below 3.8v...
> 
> re pocket clip upgrade:
> 
> the preon 2 fully captive pocket clip is a worthy upgrade, if youre into clips, pm me for a link where to buy, if you cant google it
> it only works under the tail, not under the head (unless modded)



Fantastic info, thank you for that, you've likely help to avoid a serious disappointment.


----------



## luipermom

I'm a big fan of AAA flashlights. This are actually my three favourite flashlights from my collection. From left to right:
- Nitecore Tiki (not AAA, but lovely too)
- Olight i3E-Cu EOS
- Thrunite Ti Hi


----------



## Buck91

Oh I really like those Thrunites! The Ti is pretty gritty for me, even after switching to krytox (well, the Finishi Line Extreme Fluoro version). Super easy to reflow a different 3535 chip in there if the low CRI XPL doesn't do it for you (I am running a 3000k 80cri XP-L HI in mine and its pretty good). I need to swap the CW XPG2 in my Ti3/4/whatever aluminum version. Can't decide between SST-20 vs 219B vs LH351D for that one, though.


----------



## Gt390

I don’t know if the thrunite has a reflector or not. But if it does you will probably really like the sst-20 in there. I swapped one from a Sofirn c01s into a surefire titan A and it looks great.


----------



## Vemice

Agree on the Thrunite Ti. I bought a V2 and hated the next-mode-memory but loved the look. I decided to have Vinh completely rebuild it. It is now a programmable rocket with nice very low and very high output and his VN2 driver with a SST20 High CRI 3000K. It runs on a 10440 IMR. Currently set to 6 modes but very rarely use the higher modes. I know it sounds like more of a novelty but I do use it quite a bit.


----------



## pappajohan

Got bitten by the AAA bug a while back, looking to expand my collection.

What am I missing out on?

This is what i got so far, right now I'm using my Preon P1MKIII the most...





Skickat från min SM-N975F via Tapatalk


----------



## Vemice

How about a nice Peak Eiger?


----------



## Buck91

I was unimpressed with the size of the eiger. VERY long for a single AAA. Of course I was Ok with the not so svelte L3 L08 so I guess that doesn’t help.


----------



## Vemice

Buck91 said:


> I was unimpressed with the size of the eiger. VERY long for a single AAA. Of course I was Ok with the not so svelte L3 L08 so I guess that doesn’t help.



Forgot one more Peak AAA. Probably a bit too large though. Logan 17500


----------



## jon_slider




----------



## jon_slider

Lumintop Tools are my favorite AAA lights.

The latest CuTool from drop.com was not glued, the pill unscrewed easily for modding the LED.
Nichia 219b LED swaps put a big smile on my face.




Copper kills coronavirus, pic is a link


----------



## F250XLT

Current lineup, with more on the way soon. 








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Vemice

Getting addicted to the warmer stuff.


----------



## Tesla

Copper doesn't "kill" coronavirus. It just doesn't survive very long on it. I see this misstated often.


----------



## easilyled

Yes, it's good to clamp down on disinformation, for sure!


----------



## Dr. Tweedbucket

I've been carrying a stainless steel Fenix E05 AAA lights for 3 years now. Its a twisty that gives you three power levels 12 .. I forget the middle and then 85 lumens which isn't crazy bright but bright enough in most cases. I'd like to find something similar in size and quality but that pumps out like 400 lumens.


----------



## boo5ted

Dr. Tweedbucket said:


> I've been carrying a stainless steel Fenix E05 AAA lights for 3 years now. Its a twisty that gives you three power levels 12 .. I forget the middle and then 85 lumens which isn't crazy bright but bright enough in most cases. I'd like to find something similar in size and quality but that pumps out like 400 lumens.



While not an aaa, check out the RovyVon A4. 650lm with Cree and 450 with Nichia and inboard usb charging.


----------



## Dr. Tweedbucket

boo5ted said:


> While not an aaa, check out the RovyVon A4. 650lm with Cree and 450 with Nichia and inboard usb charging.



Wow, cool! ... that's a lot of power for the size!


----------



## boo5ted

Dr. Tweedbucket said:


> Wow, cool! ... that's a lot of power for the size!



It really is, I keep it on my keychain and when I'm at work really don't feel the need to reach for my regular edc's. There are a multitude of colors and metals available. The A4 is titanium, there is also stainless steel, aluminum and polycarbonate.


----------

