# Surefire L1 still relevant?



## mcdj (Jan 24, 2012)

I just snagged a Surefire L1 on ebay for $87.50 shipped, sealed. Seems like people are/were very fond of that light. And to me it's quintessentially designed. Did I do ok at that price? And is it still a decent light, in "light" of the technological developments, and the availability of quality, feature packed budget lights since its release?


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## Z-Tab (Jan 24, 2012)

That's a reasonable price. It is still the only single-cell, multi-stage tactical light and with an RCR123, it's quite competitive in terms of brightness.

In my opinion, the L1 is a substantially better light than 95% of the other stuff that's out there.


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## sawlight (Jan 24, 2012)

I hope, someday, to find one of the old versions of an L1, sure, it was a bit green, but the run time on those things was nothing short of impressive!
I was really sad they killed the low low on the "improved" version.
But all in all, it's a solid, reliable light that works!


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## Darvis (Jan 24, 2012)

You will be hard pressed to find a better light and since it's now discontinued, at that price for an L1...

It's still one of my favorites after years of collecting and hundreds of lights, I've been EDC-ing one again because they throw so freaking far for such a small light and as Z-Tab said above, try dropping an RCR123 in it and see how bright it gets! The L1 has great LUX (Lumens are not always what matters) and that LUX plus the optic that creates it does a great job helping the L1 keep pace with all of the barn burners out there, it is most definitely still a very relevant light and will be for quite some time I suspect.

Well done for sure.


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## Tommygun45 (Jan 24, 2012)

What are the lux numbers like vs the e1b? Does it outthrow it. I had an L1 but didn't have an rcr so I sold it. Now Im bummed.


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## skyfire (Jan 24, 2012)

good price, the L1 is still on my "to buy" list.

and with it discontinued, i should really get some sooner than later.


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## archimedes (Jan 25, 2012)

The L1 ... one of SureFire's finest. Great UI - simple and reliable. I think I have four of them now.

And the red (Gen5) version runs for a couple of thousand hours on low :huh:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?316124-*1-K-hr-Update*-L1-RD-(L1-Red)-vs-X5-Red-vs-24-7

:wow:


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## kelmo (Jan 25, 2012)

Welcome to CPF!

That was a great price for a L1. There are many brighter but fewer more practical lioghts. The next time you go camping wait until it gets really dark then you will see why this light is an ageless classic.

kelmo


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## Viper715 (Jan 25, 2012)

Good price for a new one. I paid $70 for a used and they often go for $80 used. I love mine especial since I put an E1B clip. One of the best lights I own of many.


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## Darvis (Jan 25, 2012)

Tommygun45 said:


> What are the lux numbers like vs the e1b? Does it outthrow it. I had an L1 but didn't have an rcr so I sold it. Now Im bummed.



Don't know the numbers, but I have both and, visually on a primary they are the same.. but put an RCR in the L1 and the difference is undeniable...


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## Tommygun45 (Jan 25, 2012)

Thats good to know. I love my E1B but I refuse to use lights that cant run off rechargeables unless I have to. Maybe I need another l1


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## mcdj (Jan 25, 2012)

thanks folks. help a noob out here...I had no idea there were rechargeable 123s until I came here. What's the best one to get, compatible with the L1? I keep seeing the name Trustfire pop up. And would the same batteries work in the following lights I also have coming my way?

Novatac 120E and Storm
Nitecore EX10
ASP Tungsten 1
Jetbeam III M XML


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## radu1976 (Jan 25, 2012)

I don't want to transform this thread into a nonSF vs SF one but I think that L1 - latest version - is quite outdated ! 
And I have to mention that I do have 4 x SF : 2 x E1Ls , one E1B and one LX2 with E2E body and tailcap.
No doubt, its quality is at high levels but ... take a comparison to *THRUNITE T20 *for example :
- L1 is 3 times more expensive
- L1 is almost twice as long - 11.5 cm vs 6.3cm - and also considerably heavier - 
- while runtime on HIGH appears to be roughly the same, L1 probably puts 90-100 lumens while Thrunite T20 - 185 ANSI lumens according to its specs - Besides that T20 offers an ultraLOW for some of the flashaholics' tastes 
- L1 steps ahead when it comes to throw putting probably 3 times more lux than T20.


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## Z-Tab (Jan 25, 2012)

The thing is, there aren't any lights that are out now that actually compete with the L1. If you want a single-cell, multi-mode tactical light, there is only one. 

That Thrunite might be a fine light, but it doesn't do the same things as the L1 (outside of being a flashlight). If I recall correctly, the L1 was measured at over 300 Lumens on a single RCR123, so the Thrunite is hardly competitive there, either.

EDIT: 300 might have been with a different body (I think it was either bigchelis or Captain Spaulding that measured it), anyway, I found this http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Surefire-L1&p=3699235&viewfull=1#post3699235 which says that it runs 230 on an RCR, more than an LX2.


mcdj - The Novatacs both run on RCR123s, I don't know about the other lights.


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## mcdj (Jan 25, 2012)

sorry, all those lights are 123 lights, but I take R123 to mean rechargeable. I have read that some lights don't like rechargeables (?). sorry to be a noob.


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## Z-Tab (Jan 25, 2012)

It's a matter of whether their drivers can handle the added voltage. A CR123 primary is 3v and an RCR123 is 3.7-4.2v. Some lights burn out if you overdrive them.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 25, 2012)

> It's a matter of whether their drivers can handle the added voltage. A CR123 primary is 3v and an RCR123 is 3.7-4.2v. Some lights burn out if you overdrive them.



Late model L1's run great on an RCR123. Thanks for the tip Brasso!:thumbsup:


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## Chrontius (Jan 25, 2012)

If _nothing else_ (and yes, there _is_ something else, I'm playing Devil's advocate) the first-gen L1 is absolutely worth it as an awesome mod platform - driven at such "classic" drive currents, an XM-L is going to be very respectably bright, and _still_ pack the epic runtimes of the early generations, though the _low_ low may be lost if tweaking the driver's levels isn't sufficiently easy.

Heck. I want an L1.

Hey, would anyone else be up for an L1 Mk.1 reissue with a modern emitter - either XM-L for power or XP-G for throw?


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## angelofwar (Jan 25, 2012)

UI, Compact Size, a nice balance between the highs and lows (while I do prefer lower lows for around the house/tent reading, the low on here is enough for navigating safely, where as the 2.2 of the old one, while fine for looking through a pack, lookingin a dark closet, is not an ideal "navigation" brightness). I keep mine on my back-pack as a back-up light...being discontinued, I want to keep it in decent shape for as long as possible, that's the only reason I don't pocket EDC it. Still one of my faves. My l1 Red gets used all the time for navigating the house at night. I put a half dead cell (~2.3 volts) in about 5 months ago and use it on a daily basis and it's still kicking. I'm seriously considering picking up the other red model on the MP just to have a 2nd for 30 years down the road whe nmy currentred one bites the dust. I honestly don't see another light like the L1-Red being made ever again :0(.

Thanks for the compliment on the runtime thread archimedes...I must have been out-of pocket since I never responded...sorry about that!


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## RedLED (Jan 25, 2012)

Still one of my favorites. The original version has a nice flood, and a great low, may be a little purple, but this is an old light, and I remember how cool the LED L1 Surefire was when I first got it. I will just keep it stock. I have the other generations, and I like the last Gen. 10/60 best, great all purpose light for general daily use. 

Also, I love my Red L1 which is a square beam, and it is very handy. Wish I had bought the first Gen. in all the colors.

True classic, and I will still be looking for spares of all Generations and colors for some time to come.

Really, the L1 is my most loved production based light in the single cell CR123 class.


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## leon2245 (Jan 25, 2012)

Yeah, tried to dump mine a while back on the marketplace, without success. Not worried about relevance, but just don't care for TIR's, rear twisties, permanent clips, >single modes, & it's in-between sizes for my two carry methods of choice (too fat for a loose pocket floater, & would rather it be a little longer for fixed position upright in pocket); but its biggest problem, lack of tailstanding, I recently fixed with one of those delrin replacement rings, & it has since worked its way back into the rotation. Currently in pocket actually. 

What would make it even better is if I could somehow fix that lanyard ring so it doesn't slip around the tailcap, & use it as kind of a turning handle.


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## archimedes (Jan 25, 2012)

angelofwar said:


> ....Thanks for the compliment on the runtime thread archimedes....



Certainly, AoW, very useful info there!

Also, to the OP, might want to look for an F04 (diffuser) too ... which can be useful when a floody beam is preferred.


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## radu1976 (Jan 25, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> The thing is, there aren't any lights that are out now that actually compete with the L1. If you want a single-cell, multi-mode tactical light, there is only one.
> 
> That Thrunite might be a fine light, but it doesn't do the same things as the L1 (outside of being a flashlight). If I recall correctly, the L1 was measured at over 300 Lumens on a single RCR123, so the Thrunite is hardly competitive there, either.
> 
> ...



A modded L1 might be over 200 lumens but not a stock one.
According to this review : http://light-reviews.com/surefire_l1/ , the L1 puts 50-60% more lumens with a RCR123, so that's around 150 lumens.
Still behind THRUNITE T20 with CR123 and well behind T20 with RCR123 ... if you compare apple to apple and orange to orange. T20 should be in 250-300 lumens range with a RCR123.
Personally I wouldn't use an L1 with a RCR123 only to get 35 min of runtime


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## Z-Tab (Jan 25, 2012)

That's a measured, stock L1. It looks like the reviewer in your link calibrated whatever he was using to the lumens listed on the package, which are known to be understated.


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## Chrontius (Jan 25, 2012)

leon2245 said:


> Yeah, tried to dump mine a while back on the marketplace, without success. Not worried about relevance, but just don't care for TIR's, rear twisties, permanent clips, >single modes, & it's in-between sizes for my two carry methods of choice (too fat for a loose pocket floater, & would rather it be a little longer for fixed position upright in pocket); but its biggest problem, lack of tailstanding, I recently fixed with one of those delrin replacement rings, & it has since worked its way back into the rotation. Currently in pocket actually.
> 
> What would make it even better is if I could somehow fix that lanyard ring so it doesn't slip around the tailcap, & use it as kind of a turning handle.



Add a dab of rubber cement to the lanyard groove, then put the ring back on? Should be plenty reversible.


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## radu1976 (Jan 25, 2012)

Z-Tab said:


> That's a measured, stock L1. It looks like the reviewer in your link calibrated whatever he was using to the lumens listed on the package, which are known to be understated.



He - Mev - didn't but I did it considering the real lumens - 90-100 instead of 65 advertised -
It's known that the old SF lumens were conservative . Add 50-60% to 90-100 and you'll get 150 lumens at the best with a RCR123 but ... for 35 min 
T20 will be brighter even with a primary CR123 while , with a RCR123 it will blow L1 out of the water regarding the overall output.
L1 is slightly brighter than E1B so a stock one will have at the best 100 lumens.


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## leon2245 (Jan 26, 2012)

Chrontius said:


> Add a dab of rubber cement to the lanyard groove, then put the ring back on? Should be plenty reversible.



Thanks, I'll try that if I can figure out to get it off. I see two seams- just poke & pry?


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 26, 2012)

> A modded L1 might be over 200 lumens but not a stock one.



With an RCR123 an unmodded L1 will indeed give an LX2 a run for the money. I have more than one example of both. Get yourself an L1, an RCR, and see.


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## radu1976 (Jan 26, 2012)

I still doubt about that ! 
Running for over 30 min with one RCR123 and putting the same lumens like LX2 which is using 2 x RCR123 and runs for 1hr with those batteries ... is quite surprisingly ! 
I don't think that L1 is using a more efficient emitter than LX2 - which is a newer light - 
Normally, if you get same lumens with one battery for a certain amount of time , then, with 2 batteries targetting the same lumens you'd get more than twice of the runtime ; not less than twice ! 

Mev clearly illustrated - light-reviews.com - when tested the latest L1 than the output is around 150 lumens but in any case 200 !
Othwerwise, an L1 with a primary CR123 would put 130-140 lumens in order to scream 200 with a RCR123.

I had an L1 for a short while but I hadn't test it with RCR123 . Anyways, it wasn't brighter than my E1B using CR123s.


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## Z-Tab (Jan 26, 2012)

Really, look at your link and my link. In my link, run4jc says that he measured his stock L1 with a CR123 at 128 Lumens, then got 230 on an RCR123. In your link, the graphs CLEARLY show that whatever was used to measure was calibrated under the assumption that the L1's initial output was 65/10 Lumens.

I'm willing to agree that the L1 is not the absolute brightest 1xCR123 that can be bought, but it is a great light and there are no currently available 1xCR123 lights that have its combination of qualities.


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## Vox Clamatis in Deserto (Jan 26, 2012)

> Running for over 30 min with one RCR123 and putting the same lumens like LX2 which is using 2 x RCR123 and runs for 1hr with those batteries ... is quite surprisingly !



The L1 on an RCR has the same emitter, the XR-E, and is driven about the same as the LX2 on two RCR's, so yes, the LX2 runs about twice as long on two batteries as with one in the L1.


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## RedLED (Jan 26, 2012)

Lumens are great, but sometimes you don't need all that some of these newer lights throw out, just enough to work on something or look around the house. 

I still love the L1 in it's stock form and like the 10/60, last Gen. beam best. Nice round spot.


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## RedLED (Jan 26, 2012)

leon2245 said:


> Yeah, tried to dump mine a while back on the marketplace, without success. Not worried about relevance, but just don't care for TIR's, rear twisties, permanent clips, >single modes, & it's in-between sizes for my two carry methods of choice (too fat for a loose pocket floater, & would rather it be a little longer for fixed position upright in pocket); but its biggest problem, lack of tailstanding, I recently fixed with one of those delrin replacement rings, & it has since worked its way back into the rotation. Currently in pocket actually.
> 
> What would make it even better is if I could somehow fix that lanyard ring so it doesn't slip around the tailcap, & use it as kind of a turning handle.



Try using JB Weld, and it will do what you want it to do, however, it will not be revesrable - you will have to replace the switch/tailcap if you don't like it. Not a bad idea really.


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## Pöbel (Jan 26, 2012)

I put a XP-E in my L1 - keeps the beam as tight as with XR-E but is available in higher bins - easy task and the L1 is up to date again. Only drawback - it does not work in direct drive any longer (with RCR) as the light draws 2+ Amps and the XP-E just can't handle that much. As I don't use RCRs this is no problem for me.


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## Blindasabat (Jan 26, 2012)

*Re: Surefire L1 still relevant? Yes*



Z-Tab said:


> In my opinion, the L1 is a substantially better light than 95% of the other stuff that's out there.


 +1 I have four. 



sawlight said:


> I hope, someday, to find one of the old versions of an L1, sure, it was a bit green, but the run time on those things was nothing short of impressive!
> I was really sad they killed the low low on the "improved" version.


I offer a tailcap mod service to get that low-low back. $15 for one tailcap. $12ea for two or more. Several options. PM me.

I measured 7200 lux on my cree L1 (mine is upgraded to R2-WH :devil: - and the 'green' tint of the WH bin is great for me) with an old partially used RCR123 in it. I measured *10,100 *lux on a fresher 17500. 

Only the Cree version of the L1 can use RCRs, but not all RCRs will fit. Only unprotected ones fit in mine.

Mcdj: All of my RCR's except one fit my two EX-10's. NovaTac fits everything, even 18350 with the brass strip mod :devil:. 

I have put an E1B clip on one of mine too. Also a long E2E clip on a first gen long body. Both are great improvements.

As many rough and construction type users will attest to (most recently in the "SureFire SHOT Show 2012" thread) SureFires are actually CHEAPER in the long run than lights that cost less. Even though to casual users (95% of us) they seem the same quality, for the most demanding users SureFires last years instead of weeks or months (or days in the post I just read this morning). And the 'no questions' warranty is still tops. I also have seen coworkers with several year old worn-to-hell SureFires that they still insist on carrying verywhere. E1Ls seem very popular around here after people go through 6-10 cheaper lights in a year. THAT is how SureFire is still in business.

1st Gen L1 mods - Oh yeah! See the light in my avatar:a K2 DD on an E1 body with 2-stage McE2S tailcap (a mini-L1 TC no longer available). I have two gen 1 heads with Luxeon K2 TFFCs in them and the TVOD (very low Vf) K2 compared well to an SSC P7 when I put it up against one at a CPF meet-up. I estimate 300L OTF driven by an IMR123 at a DMM measured steady 2.25Amps. The K2 can take anything you can throw at them. I regularly run them on a bored 1st gen body that had the driver removed and a 17500 plus spacer put in it. Or an E2 body with 17670. I am considering putting an XM-L in one of those.

I also put a K2 neutral TFFC in a 2nd gen (what *I* call 2nd gen - the KL stlye head) and it makes a great bike headlight (as does my SOB1000 modded neutral KX head). It actually stays relatively cool while moving, but the K2 can take a lot of heat.


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## JNewell (Jan 26, 2012)

Although not my favorite L1, I recently bought another last-gen L1 as a spare. Love those L1 Surefires.



RedLed said:


> Still one of my favorites. The original version has a nice flood, and a great low, may be a little purple, but this is an old light, and I remember how cool the LED L1 Surefire was when I first got it. I will just keep it stock. I have the other generations, and I like the last Gen. 10/60 best, great all purpose light for general daily use.
> 
> Also, I love my Red L1 which is a square beam, and it is very handy. Wish I had bought the first Gen. in all the colors.
> 
> ...


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## MarNav1 (Jan 26, 2012)

I think the L1 is a hell of a good light, about as good as it gets. It would be nice to have an updated emitter. A real shame that SureFire discontinued it. Where did you guys get your E1B clips at?


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## jake royston (Jan 26, 2012)

i just bought a brand new one it a still sealed box yesterday, (65/10 lumen "cree" model) and i have an lx2 clip which will allow for a deeper cary than with the e1b clip.


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## mcstew (Jan 26, 2012)

i love my l1... it lives in the drawer of my bedside table for middle of the night emergencies. i've also taken it on every camping trip i've been on in the past 3+ years (got it in 2008) and have used it for everything from spotting eye shine on night hikes to doing early morning poop scoops in the yard. great light, in my opinion.


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## Viper715 (Jan 26, 2012)

I've stripped them from my E1B's. I carry my E1B on my duty belt in a pouch so no need for a clip but I pocket carry the L1 and also carry it off duty as my EDC so prefer the better clip on my L1.


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## MarNav1 (Jan 27, 2012)

I looked on Ebay yesterday and didn't see a single L1 for sale ...........


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## Monocrom (Jan 28, 2012)

L1 is an excellent choice for a main EDC light. I carried mine long before Milky modded it to put out more lumens in both modes. But even in stock trim, it definitely gets the job done. Only issue can be the price. At $159 brand new, it is now very over-priced. At around $90 or just under, it's very reasonable and worth getting.


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## jake royston (Jan 30, 2012)

I just got mine in the mail today, brand new, still sealed in the original packaging.
65/10 cree model, (6th gen??) for only $115.
There are some good deals out there, im supprised theyre not selling for more than retail since theyre discontinued!
Running an IMR 16340, its the ultimate EDC, IMHO
The clip on it is pretty much useless, so i swapped it out for an LX2 deep cary clip.
It is an awesome light!


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## Monocrom (Jan 30, 2012)

jake royston said:


> I just got mine in the mail today, brand new, still sealed in the original packaging.
> 65/10 cree model, (6th gen??) for only $115.
> There are some good deals out there, im supprised theyre not selling for more than retail since theyre discontinued!
> Running an IMR 16340, its the ultimate EDC, IMHO
> ...



The "lack of output" is the main reason the L1 is no longer as popular as it used to be. It should be more popular. But to many, output is everything. 10 lumens, ironically, is seen as too bright as a low mode. While 65 lumens is seen as not even remotely bright enough. To be honest, I've been in situations in which it actually wasn't bright enough. The retail price of $159 is also just too much, compared to the offerings from other companies nowadays. I'd say that right around $90 makes it worth picking up for a used one in excellent condition. Another ironic sticking point is that some find the length to be too long for a single CR123 based light. From the outside, it looks as long as a single AA light. However, I find the slight increase in length to be perfect for making the clip functional and for allowing me to wrap all of my fingers comfortably around the body.

Speaking of the clip, the one on the E1E and E1L are pretty much useless. However, the body of the L1 is just long enough to make a difference. I carry my Milky-modded SF L1 on a daily basis, using the stock clip. Milky improved the output. Low is now 40 lumens while High is now around 200 on a single primary CR123 cell. And that's all he did to the light. Everything else is stock.


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## jake royston (Jan 30, 2012)

Double post.... Gotta love my internet connection!!


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## jake royston (Jan 30, 2012)

I read somewhere on the forums that the l1 cree was tested, and put out over 200 lumens on high running on an IMR cell. It is noticably brighter than my ti v10r which is supposed to be 210 lumens. Its a heck of a thrower, especially for a one cell light. surefire realy under-rates there lights outputs.


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## Monocrom (Jan 30, 2012)

jake royston said:


> I read somewhere on the forums that the l1 cree was tested, and put out over 200 lumens on high running on an IMR cell. It is noticably brighter than my ti v10r which is supposed to be 210 lumens. Its a heck of a thrower, especially for a one cell light. surefire realy under-rates there lights outputs.



The runtime on High mode with my Milky-modded light is much better than a stock L1 Cree using an IMR 16340.

If I had any IMR cells, it would be interesting to see what my custom L1 could pump out.

Don't worry about the internet connection though. Sadly, it wasn't just you today.


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## pulstar (Feb 19, 2012)

I can also confirm, that latest generation L1 on RCR is atleast as bright as LX2! I am really sad i sold mine...


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## BLUE LED (Feb 19, 2012)

Change the LED to a XR-E R2 EZ900 and drop a single AW 16340 and it really comes alive. My old emitter was a little green. I don't think the Surefire L1 gets much credit due to the age of it. I still really like mine.


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## pulstar (Feb 19, 2012)

I envy you for that!


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## Kestrel (Feb 20, 2012)

I see that the 'usual suspects' have dropped by. :wave:



> Surefire L1 still relevant?


Yes.

Glad to help.


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## Tommygun45 (Feb 21, 2012)

Just ordered one on the MP. I have an AWRCR123 protected sitting unused. Will I need to get an orange AWIMR cell to work with the L1? Will that AW Protected cell not fit?


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## Viper715 (Feb 21, 2012)

AW's protected "black label" RCR123's work fine in my L1 and in all 5 L1's I've had my hands on across the years.


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## bigchelis (Feb 21, 2012)

Hi all,
Just in case you missed my testing of a 100% Stock Surefire L1. 

The Surefire L1 still is king of sheer throw for a small package.

Here is what you do:
Get a Fivemega E-18650 body or Aleph 17670 body.

Run a IMR 17670 or AW 18650 cell and you will get 15K lux out of that little bezel with 100% stock XR-E. I got over 15K lux and 333 real OTF lumens, but I was pushing it at 1.8A via IMR cells.


So, its still relevant and leap years away for something that small to beat it in throw.


bigC


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## Tommygun45 (Feb 21, 2012)

Why would the size of the cell matter? Isn't an RCR123 running the same as an 18650 just with less capacity?



bigchelis said:


> Hi all,
> Just in case you missed my testing of a 100% Stock Surefire L1.
> 
> The Surefire L1 still is king of sheer throw for a small package.
> ...


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## bigchelis (Feb 21, 2012)

Tommygun45 said:


> Why would the size of the cell matter? Isn't an RCR123 running the same as an 18650 just with less capacity?



The bigger cells will sag less in general.
Less cell sag = more voltage input
More voltage input under load = more amperage to the LED


Also, IMR/AW vs. cheaper quality variants.

Despite being biggger and unprotected Trustfire for example will sag more than a tiny less dense IMR 18500 or 16340 or 18350.

Just get a mult-meter and take tailcap currents with the combo I mentioned. The amperage will be all over the place depending on the cell.
Then of course say you get really lucky and have a freaky low vF XR-E LED, in that case even the tiny cells will deliver 2A plus. In all my years and tests I have seen only one XR-E R2 net 2.4A off AW CR123 and thats how I keep using it till this day. With custom copper heatsink in L4 bezel though.



bigC


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## Tommygun45 (Feb 21, 2012)

Good to know. Also how does the tailcap setup work with those bodies and the L1 tailcap. Isn't the L1 cap too wide to fit a standard e series body. For instance, my A2L tailcap can't fit on my E1L body. Would these bodies work? They are compatible with e series parts.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...-by-Rothrandir-(Maker-of-Malkoff-accessories)!

Or are you just running it in one mode with an e series tailcap, like a z57?


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## U2VOODOO (Mar 1, 2012)

I ordered a new L1 from Brileys, per a post here. I had not received any info for about eight days, so I e-mailed them. They said that as far as they knew they were on order from surefire. Since they are discontinued I dont beleive that this is going to happen.

Did anyone else purchase an L1 from Brileys recently?


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## Brasso (Mar 1, 2012)

I ordered one from there too. Like you, I don't have a lot of hope it will show up. I also ordered one from Battery Station that I don't have very high hopes for either. I don't know who has them in stock.

I need a pocket thrower. I don't know whether I should wait for the EB1 with two stage switch, which might just be vaporware like the LX1, or get an LX2.

Update: Apparently I got the last L1 that Battery Station had in stock. Now I guess I need to find one on the market place for a backup.


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## Monocrom (Mar 2, 2012)

Brasso said:


> I ordered one from there too. Like you, I don't have a lot of hope it will show up. I also ordered one from Battery Station that I don't have very high hopes for either. I don't know who has them in stock.
> 
> I need a pocket thrower. I don't know whether I should wait for the E1B with two stage switch, which might just be vaporware like the LX1, or get an LX2.



The L1 is worth tracking down. Best bet is going to be trying to get a used one on the CPF MarketPlace.


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## Tommygun45 (Mar 2, 2012)

I put a WTB on the MP and got one from a member for 100. Its wonderful. Especially paired up with an F05 and tail standing shroud. Here are some beams comparing the CR123/AWRCR and my Rotary on burst (200 lumens.)

A little out of focus here but still..






All shot in Manual Mode on a Sony Nex-5N
Auto WB
ISO 100
f/3.5

L1 Low SF CR123





L1 Low AWRCR123





L1 High CR123






L1 High AWRCR123





HDS EDC-R1S-200 (Rotary) On Burst Mode


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## JNewell (Mar 2, 2012)

Keep an eye out at B&Ms. I bought one late last year from a B&M for well under a hundred because it was discontinued. (!!!) Pricing is all in the eyes of the beholder.


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## angelofwar (Mar 2, 2012)

Glad ya got it Tommygun and thanks for posting the pics!


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## LE6920 (Mar 2, 2012)

One of the best Surefires made!!


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## Tommygun45 (Mar 3, 2012)

Are you putting one in every room of the house? 



LE6920 said:


> One of the best Surefires made!!


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## LE6920 (Mar 3, 2012)

Tommygun45 said:


> Are you putting one in every room of the house?



My favorite all around carry light and they were made in several versions and colors! :naughty:


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## tobrien (Mar 3, 2012)

how many colors did they make it in?


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## angelofwar (Mar 3, 2012)

tobrien said:


> how many colors did they make it in?



Red, Blue, Green, and white were the stock colors. I think I've seen a special amber one one-time....


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## tobrien (Mar 3, 2012)

angelofwar said:


> Red, Blue, Green, and white were the stock colors. I think I've seen a special amber one one-time....


thanks! i wanna buy white, green, and red ones one day haha.

do they all go for about the same price when people sell them? regardless of color, that is


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## Tommygun45 (Mar 3, 2012)

A red one went for 125 last week and a blue one just went for 99.

Also a few months back someone sold a 5 pc set for somewhere around 650 or something? I forget but it was beautiful. All were 4 flats. I dont get it honestly. Why did Surefire change to rounded edges. Im relatively new to the game, around 2 years, but the 4 flats versions of the A2s and L1s are just incredible. Maybe their limited nature increases their allure, thus the brand allue. I dont know.


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## tobrien (Mar 3, 2012)

Tommygun45 said:


> A red one went for 125 last week and a blue one just went for 99.
> 
> Also a few months back someone sold a 5 pc set for somewhere around 650 or something? I forget but it was beautiful. All were 4 flats. I dont get it honestly. Why did Surefire change to rounded edges. Im relatively new to the game, around 2 years, but the 4 flats versions of the A2s and L1s are just incredible. Maybe their limited nature increases their allure, thus the brand allue. I dont know.


thank you for the info! 

and as to the flats vs. non, i think you're probably right with the reasons you're proposing.


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## angelofwar (Mar 3, 2012)

tobrien said:


> thank you for the info!
> 
> and as to the flats vs. non, i think you're probably right with the reasons you're proposing.



Yep...four flats rock!!! Funny though, cause I prefer the three flats C-Series...LOL!


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## JNewell (Mar 4, 2012)

I have a very low s/n four-flats HA-BK red. _That_ is an uncommon L1.


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## leon2245 (Mar 5, 2012)

Hey scout, you haven't by chance been back to home depot lately have you (to see what the part number was for those o-rings you doubled up in the lanyard ring groove)? 

Another OT- If it's true that SF is going to make A clickY tailcap for their lx2U, it will fit L1 right? Hopefully the replacement delrin shrouds & o-ring trick swap still work on it (& they sell it separately).


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## JNewell (Mar 8, 2012)

Here's an old pic or two from an eaaaarly digital camera


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## angelofwar (Mar 9, 2012)

JNewell said:


> Here's an old pic or two from an eaaaarly digital camera



Wow Jnewell!!! Simply awesome! I wish they still made them in bk-ha...I wish they made more lights in it actually...I miss my C2-BK-HA every day...but that L1-HA-BK is SEXY!


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## Alpnlight (Mar 14, 2012)

I have two SF L1s that appear to be fifth generation. The red one is reasonably bright, the white one borders on dim; probably half the light output. What gives? I like the UI of these lights. But the white is vastly underpowered...all of my 2-AA lights blow it away. Haven't tried RCR123A yet but it can't be that much better when starting from so low. Where can I send this for an LED upgrade and what is the approximate cost? Not convinced there's any reason to have a bright red LED so perhaps the best option is to make it a bright white too.<br><br>Was originally planning to sell these off on ebay to pay for new lights. But have discovered that none of the recent&amp;nbsp;acquisitions&amp;nbsp;have nearly as good a UI...too much&amp;nbsp;gimmickry&amp;nbsp;and/or learning curve or just too basic. Seems like the L1 has the feature-set and KISS thing dialed. So I'm willing to upgrade if cost is reasonable.


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## novice (Mar 14, 2012)

Alpnlight,
You might want to contact CPF member Milkyspit. He has made a reputation for himself modding L1 lights. I had him mod the 2 L1s I got after they were discontinued. In both cases he removed the optic, and added a reflector, and upgraded the emitter to a high CRI XP-G. The previous beam pattern just doesn't even compare to what these look like now. He could also leave the circuitry stock, or make it brighter for you. He can do just about anything you want. He is busy and it can take some effort to get ahold of him, but it was worth it. It would be best to discuss pricing with him directly.


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## FPSRelic (Mar 14, 2012)

I would sell the red one on ebay, and modify the white.


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## choombak (Mar 14, 2012)

I recently got a L1 last version (shorter, with the Cree emitter), and it has been my favorite EDC light. I personally prefer smaller lights for EDC, but there is something captivating in the L1 that makes me EDC it daily these days. I think the reflector design is hypnotic, and it stares right into my eyes from my pocket. :-D


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## Brasso (Mar 14, 2012)

I wouldn't want to destroy a perfectly good L1. The easiest mod is to just get a VME head and drop-in of your choice. Instand mod to whatever you desire.


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## Kestrel (Mar 14, 2012)

I use one of my L1's almost daily - it's in the center console of my car. Great ergonomics as always.


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## BigBluefish (Mar 14, 2012)

The L1 is great light. At the moment, I have my L1 head on an E2O body running an AW 17670. It's a little throw monster.


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## Blindasabat (Mar 15, 2012)

I recently got a lux meter and tested my L1 Cree (upgraded to R2-WH) at 7200lux on an RCR123 and 10,100 lux direct drive on a 17500. It should be higher on a quality 17670.


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## Alpnlight (Mar 15, 2012)

Brasso said:


> The easiest mod is to just get a VME head and drop-in of your choice. Instand mod to whatever you desire.



Does the VME head accept other drop-ins than the M-31? If not, that adds up to about $110 per light. Perhaps I'll just try the stock head with a higher voltage rechargeable after all. If I do upgrade the L1, does that still give the tight beam without the excess spill that seems so common now?


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## Brasso (Mar 15, 2012)

It takes any Malkoff drop in.


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## angelofwar (Mar 16, 2012)

Alpnlight said:


> Does the VME head accept other drop-ins than the M-31? If not, that adds up to about $110 per light. Perhaps I'll just try the stock head with a higher voltage rechargeable after all. If I do upgrade the L1, does that still give the tight beam without the excess spill that seems so common now?



If your L1's are both 5th gen, then I would avoid the RCR route, as it will essentially destroy them. You can EASILY sale both of them on the marketplace (www.cpfmarketplace.com) for $100-$125, and get a 6th gen, and have some money to candy your 6th gen up. Both of your old L1's are still highly sought after, if only for the excessive runtime. I got ~3,000 hours on my L1-Red on low during a runtime test.


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## gripnSUREFIRE (Mar 28, 2012)

I can attest to the glory of the L1. One of my users is on a E2 body, and its a barn burner!

I have another one in the box I wouldnt mind selling..


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## CarpentryHero (Mar 28, 2012)

I'd love to find a used L1 red, the L1 and E1e will always be relevant. Especially to those that prefer reliability over the firecrackers ( I only got over last year ) bright is fun but if it melts after 10 min it's useless


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## feathers73 (Mar 28, 2012)

I've had one for several years and it has NEVER let me down.


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## skyfire (Mar 28, 2012)

ive been on a L1 frenzy this month, and i dont think im done yet. :naughty:


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## FPSRelic (Mar 29, 2012)

Ive noticed that gen 1/2/3 l1's seem to attract a higher price than the newer ones. What is with that? Is it purely a collector thing? A modding thing? Or is there something about them that makes them awesome?


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## Blindasabat (Mar 29, 2012)

Have you tried that? It is generally not a good idea to have two drivers in series, so direct drive P60 drop-ins would be fine, but ones with drivers may not cooperate and could drive one or both of the drivers to overload or overheat as they compete with each other to modify the voltage and amps. Surefire makes it so you can not put an E series KL or KX head on an L1 for that reason. The threads are compatible, but the ID of the L1 interferes with the ID of KL and KX heads.


Brasso said:


> I wouldn't want to destroy a perfectly good L1. The easiest mod is to just get a VME head and drop-in of your choice. Instand mod to whatever you desire.


I have heard it work before, but it takes a brave soldier to risk their hardware to find out. I have two Milky bored (and stroked I call it - with the driver removed) L1's for that reason, to use L1 bodies and switches with DD L1 heads and any other E compatible heads with drivers in them.


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## archimedes (Mar 29, 2012)

FPSRelic said:


> Ive noticed that gen 1/2/3 l1's seem to attract a higher price than the newer ones. What is with that? Is it purely a collector thing? A modding thing? Or is there something about them that makes them awesome?



Well, (sort of) all of the above ....

The older versions had the "four-flats" battery tube that many think looks more stylish, and the very first models also had a different bezel, too.

The first generation(s) are also less common, for collectors.

The early LED & drivers had significantly lower output, but *extreme* runtimes ( > thousands of hours), compared with the newer models.


----------



## Kestrel (Mar 29, 2012)

Just last week, something that doesn't happen all that often anymore with the older L1's ... :devil:


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## tobrien (Mar 29, 2012)

what color, Kestrel?


----------



## Kestrel (Mar 30, 2012)

Sorry, this one is just a 'white', otherwise I'd happily trade/sell off a colored head to you afficionados. I'm just finally getting around to looking into 17670-boring for this perfect-length Gen5 body. I have a few Gen6's which are happy with 1xCR123 or 1xIMR123, but the sheer capacity potential for these slightly longer bodies is just too tempting. 

Edit: I tell ya, the knurling on these is just incredible - the grippiest flashlight body I've ever owned.


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## FPSRelic (Mar 30, 2012)

Is the clip on your L1 the one that it shipped with Kestrel? It looks longer than the one on the gen5 red I got off the mp.


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## novice (Mar 30, 2012)

Kestrel,
I have a gen3 and gen5, both modded by Milky. They are such better lights now. I didn't realize that any of the L1s were long enough to be bored for 17670 cells. After using RCR123a cells & 18650 cells for a long time, and resisting buying 17670 cells, I'm starting to break down and buy a few, and will probably eventually get more. There's just no end to buying 'more accessories'.

1) Is the gen3 long enough to take a 17670, as well?

2) There is the 'electronics stuff' in the muzzle end of the L1 tube. Would you be kind enough to recommend someone/some people you think would do a good job of removing the electronics in the tube, boring, and then replacing it?

Thank you!


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## skyfire (Mar 30, 2012)

Milky can probably do it. i remember him mentioning that the electronics of the battery tube would be moved into the bezel. this is what he told me when i asked him about converting an L1 for AA batteries.


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## Kestrel (Mar 30, 2012)

FPSRelic said:


> Is the clip on your L1 the one that it shipped with Kestrel? It looks longer than the one on the gen5 red I got off the mp.



About half of the way through the Gen5 production run, SF changed from the long clip to the short clip, perhaps because the longer clips may have been more prone to breakage. (Not an issue for me as I'm pretty gentle with my lights.) AFAIK, SF supplied the shorter clips as replacements in this situation. I actually like the longer clips, they are actually usable unlike the shorter E1e clips which I detest. SF did a great thing with the new 2-way clip design & I wish I could purchase some. 



novice said:


> Kestrel,
> I have a gen3 and gen5, both modded by Milky. They are such better lights now. I didn't realize that any of the L1s were long enough to be bored for 17670 cells. After using RCR123a cells & 18650 cells for a long time, and resisting buying 17670 cells, I'm starting to break down and buy a few, and will probably eventually get more. There's just no end to buying 'more accessories'.
> 
> 1) Is the gen3 long enough to take a 17670, as well?
> ...


I handled a Gen3 once and I'm not sure if they'd be long enough, someone would have to do the measurements to make sure. Removing the driver module from the flashlight body isn't such a big deal if you have a dental pick or something similar, check out this (rather mortibund) *thread* I'm doing on my SureFire L2, I have lots of detailed pics showing a comparable disassembly there. (Just please don't bump it until I have another update to supply for it, lol. ) FYI, the driver module of the Gen5 L1 is the exact same length as the L2 driver module I photographed in that thread. I'm certain that the driver module in the Gen6 L1 is shorter, I'm not sure about the driver modules in the L1's prior to Gen4.

Regarding replacing the electronics, the usual solution is to remove the heatsink from the 'dumb' L1 head, add a new driver to a custom-built heatsink and install the new assembly in the L1 head, freeing up more room in the body for the cell. It's a lot of work to gain just a little room (i.e. going from 1xCR123/1xIMR123 to 1x17500 in a Gen6), but with these particular bodies, *2x*CR123/1x17670 is possible, making it a whole different game entirely. 

I would be happy to post more pics when I have some progress to report on this L1.


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## tobrien (Mar 30, 2012)

Kestrel said:


> Sorry, this one is just a 'white', otherwise I'd happily trade/sell off a colored head to you afficionados. I'm just finally getting around to looking into 17670-boring for this perfect-length Gen5 body. I have a few Gen6's which are happy with 1xCR123 or 1xIMR123, but the sheer capacity potential for these slightly longer bodies is just too tempting.
> 
> Edit: I tell ya, the knurling on these is just incredible - the grippiest flashlight body I've ever owned.


very nice! i'll soon have one of each light. i'm away from home though so i can't wait to get back to the fedex boxes. if theyre half as good as yall say i'll love the you-know-what out of them


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## Blindasabat (Mar 30, 2012)

Milky did two gen1 & 2 bodies that I have.
One I had him bore out for me to fit a 17500 with a spacer. The second I bought already modified and it fit 2xCR123 with a 1st gen KL1 bezel modified to lower the contact by about 1mm.
I saw a thread some time ago - somebody (Maxsatilus?) had Milky mod a gen6 to fit 17500 by lowering the bezel contact by about 1mm as well. 
So according to all I have seen, call Milkyspit.


novice said:


> 1) Is the gen3 long enough to take a 17670, as well?
> 
> 2) There is the 'electronics stuff' in the muzzle end of the L1 tube. Would you be kind enough to recommend someone/some people you think would do a good job of removing the electronics in the tube, boring, and then replacing it?


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## bullfrog (Mar 30, 2012)

I still carry my L1 quite often... 

I love its big cree "splotch" of a hotspot - much bigger than my E1B or E1L. Its like a glob of french vanilla tinted goodness.


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## JNewell (Mar 30, 2012)

Nice work, Kestrel! I have one of those still unopened as a backup. I talked a local B&M out of it for two digits because it was discontinued. After all, I told them, you don't want old stock on your rack!  



Kestrel said:


> Just last week, something that doesn't happen all that often anymore with the older L1's ... :devil:


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## angelofwar (Mar 30, 2012)

skyfire said:


> ive been on a L1 frenzy this month, and i dont think im done yet. :naughty:



Nice lights Sky! How are the green one's in day-to-day use?


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## skyfire (Mar 31, 2012)

green? thats funny, cause when i bought the gen1, its description mentioned "green". but when i got it, its cool white, with a sight purplish hotspot. either way, i was extremely pleased when i received it. :devil:
the gen1 i carry most, it feels outstanding in the hand. best ergonomics of any light ive ever held.
during daylight hours, i carry the 6th gen more for its med/high modes.
and during nightfall, i carry the 1st gen more, for its low/med modes. i love the beam on the gen 1, it has a smooth floody beam.
im also a high CRI junky, and prefer warm tints, but the L1 is such a great EDC, i can live with the cool tints.... for now :naughty:.
these are the only multiplies i have of any one model of lights, and the lego has been fun, and knowing i have spare parts for my favorite EDCs is nice.


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## lostinperiphery (Mar 31, 2012)

I love my L1, though its seen a good bit less pocket time than my e1b as of late. I prefer the smaller form factor and smoother body of the e1b, and for everyday use the clicky suites me better. However the two stage momentary button of the L1 is excellent for a tactical light. Still has the benefit of low output, with high mode always immediately and predictably at the ready... Its the light I now grab for 'things that go bump in the night'


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## tobrien (Apr 2, 2012)

JUST GOT MY FIRST L1!!!

so: what gen is it? is this gen safe to run on 16340s?

pics: 
















this isn't the 4 flats it looks like because I only see three flattened surfaces for the clip and the lettering sides


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## archimedes (Apr 2, 2012)

My guess would be Gen5....


----------



## tobrien (Apr 2, 2012)

archimedes said:


> My guess would be Gen5....


thanks! I was just about to PM you on the MP haha

edit: so is it okay to run on 4.2v RCR 123s?


----------



## novice (Apr 2, 2012)

"so: what gen is it? is this gen safe to run on 16340s?"

tobrien,
The only round-bodied L1s were the gen5, and the last version, the gen6. I have a gen5, but no gen6, and it looks to me like a gen5. I actually prefer the longer runtimes on the gen5, to the gen6. The date of your brochure would also seem to suggest a gen5.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?151425-The-Surefire-L1-Evolution
[see post#10 for a brief overview of the different generations of the L1]

I do not want to tell you with certainty that it will take a 3.7 volt rechargeable, but Milky modded mine, and I had him leave the circuitry stock, and his label says that mine can be used with 3.7 volts, although that _might_ be because I had him upgrade the emitter to a high-CRI XP-G


----------



## Kestrel (Apr 2, 2012)

I wouldn't try a LiIon in that one, the driver might take it but I'm thinking that the LED might not. :shrug:
The thing is that those weren't all that bright anyway, not like the Gen 6's, so even if it didn't fry, it still wouldn't be competitive.
The strength of those Gen 5's were the focused aspheric beam and the looooong runtimes ...



novice said:


> [...] Milky modded mine, and I had him leave the circuitry stock, and his label says that mine can be used with 3.7 volts, although that _might_ be because I had him upgrade the emitter to a high-CRI XP-G


Yep, your XP-G will take far far more current than the Lux III's in the stock Gen 5's. I'm interested in your post though as this a good data point for the older drivers taking a LiIon.


Edit: Here's my L1 driver module from the Gen 5 L1 I posted in this thread previously. Glad to know it can do 1xLiIon voltage input, not sure what I'll be using this for but sounds like it could still be useful. :thumbsup:


----------



## Craig K (Apr 4, 2012)

I just bought my first Surefire L1 can't wait until it arrives, sounds like a great little light.


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## FPSRelic (Apr 4, 2012)

Well, you people have done it. I've had to go and get some of the older models just to see whta all the fuss is about. I've already got a nice red gen5 on the way, and now a white one. This is to go with the 2 gen 6's I have (one brand new as a backup to my user). Now I won't be happy until I have a gen1/2/3 to see what the fuss is with _those_. And I'll need a blue and green gen 5 to go with the red.. ARGH!


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## archimedes (Apr 4, 2012)

FPSRelic said:


> Well, you people have done it. I've had to go and get some of the older models just to see whta all the fuss is about. I've already got a nice red gen5 on the way, and now a white one. This is to go with the 2 gen 6's I have (one brand new as a backup to my user). Now I won't be happy until I have a gen1/2/3 to see what the fuss is with _those_. And I'll need a blue and green gen 5 to go with the red.. ARGH!



... and we've hardly even discussed milky's ML-1's (the FloodMaster, the eXtreme, etc, etc) yet ...  - :devil:


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## FPSRelic (Apr 4, 2012)

archimedes said:


> ... and we've hardly even discussed milky's ML-1's (the FloodMaster, the eXtreme, etc, etc) yet ...  - :devil:



I've been tempted I must say. There was a MOAL that went on sale here recently I almost pulled the trigger on, but I'm actually a throw kind of guy over flood, so I really like the XR-E emitter. I was under the impression that Milky's lights were mostly walls of light?


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## Alpnlight (Apr 5, 2012)

Are there any aftermarket adaptors that allow the L1 to tail stand? If so, what's the best way to remove the leash ring? The Olight diffuser fits on the front perfectly BTW.


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## archimedes (Apr 5, 2012)

Alpnlight said:


> Are there any aftermarket adaptors that allow the L1 to tail stand? If so, what's the best way to remove the leash ring? The Olight diffuser fits on the front perfectly BTW.



https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/229577

Another run of these may be coming soon ?


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## Brasso (Apr 5, 2012)

Those were for E series. The L1 is a different size. But if delrin is OK with yoiu, JS Burleys has tail standing shrouds for E series and A/L series.


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## archimedes (Apr 5, 2012)

Brasso said:


> Those were for E series. The L1 is a different size. But if delrin is OK with yoiu, JS Burleys has tail standing shrouds for E series and A/L series.



The original run was for E-series, yes, but the current title now says " Ti tail extensions for E-series,Z58/59,L1/L2 >>DELUXE<< .... " ( so I thought that the new run might be compatible with Z58, Z59, L1, L2 - aka C-series, L-series, etc ) ???


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## JNewell (Apr 5, 2012)

I liked Jim/OregonShooter's Delrin version best. :thumbsup:


----------



## Lightemitter (Apr 6, 2012)

I was reading through this thread, and wondering if that lil' SF I've had for a while, used very little and not thought much about, might just be an L1.... Sho nuff.

Is this Gen 3??


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## archimedes (Apr 6, 2012)

Lightemitter said:


> I was reading through this thread, and wondering if that lil' SF I've had for a while, used very little and not thought much about, might just be an L1.... Sho nuff.
> 
> Is this Gen 3??
> ....



Looks like Gen2 or Gen3 (depends on which emitter is inside)....


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## FPSRelic (Apr 6, 2012)

archimedes said:


> Looks like Gen2 or Gen3 (depends on which emitter is inside)....



Agreed. I'm guessing there is no easy way to tell what the emitter is though?


----------



## archimedes (Apr 7, 2012)

FPSRelic said:


> Agreed. I'm guessing there is no easy way to tell what the emitter is though?



I don't think so ....

Luxeon low dome and Luxeon high dome will have slightly different beam patterns. The LEDs do look a little different, but probably rather difficult to distinguish through that optic, unless the bezel were off.


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## Boss Hogg (Apr 7, 2012)

LE6920 said:


> One of the best Surefires made!!



One of those looks pretty familiar. Nice stash.


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## CarpentryHero (Apr 7, 2012)

Wowsa that is a sweet stash


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## Kestrel (Apr 18, 2012)

OK, time to  this thread with some new pics. :devil:


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## novice (Apr 26, 2012)

Kestrel,
I can only imagine the runtimes with that set-up. If I would only have known this was possible at the time, I would have had Milky move the muzzle-end guts to the bezel, when he was upgrading the emitter, and adding a reflector to my gen5. Dagnabit. At least I can try buying some 17500 cells (since I was going to anyway), and see if those will work.


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## scout24 (Apr 26, 2012)

L1 certainly still relevant on it's own merits, but even more so after Milky has been in there... My Arnor is awesome. So, even if the L1 has been eclipsed, it's still one heck of a platform for modding...


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## Bogie (Apr 27, 2012)

My Red L1 is the move around the house at night light, I have swapped the optic to a rippled one to flood out the beam a bit more.


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## FPSRelic (Apr 27, 2012)

Three of my new lights to add to the L1 collection:






Interestingly, the L1 red is much brighter than the blue or white. As has been stated,when your eyes adjust to the light levels accordingly, the 1.1 lumen low on these gen5's is pretty adequate for navigating around inside a house. IMO the TIR optic with it's throw makes the 1.1 lumen brightness more effective than newer lights using fatter emitters running at the same brightness (such as my HDS Rotary 200 @ 1.1 lumens).


----------



## BenChiew (May 22, 2012)

Is the green and blue only available in gen 4 and 5?


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## novice (May 23, 2012)

I just received some AW protected 'black label' 17500 cells in the mail, and the outside diameter would not fit inside either my gen3 or gen5 L1 lights. Removing the outer wrap did not allow it to fit either. Just an FYI. You might have to do some inside 'reaming' to make these work. Dang. I guess I will stick with either 16340s, or primaries, on these. Considering the runtimes, I can live with that...


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## Flashlight Dave (May 23, 2012)

Benchiew said:


> Is the green and blue only available in gen 4 and 5?



I believe earlier versions as well.


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## archimedes (May 23, 2012)

Benchiew said:


> Is the green and blue only available in gen 4 and 5?



https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3948790


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## sween1911 (May 23, 2012)

An important distinction for me with the L1 is that it's a tactical light FIRST that can also do utility/everyday work SECOND.

Tactical has become a marketing term meaning "painted cool colors and expensive", but at it's truest form, it means "for use while employing tactics", which is addressing the threat of adversarial human beings. The criteria for a tactical light being: a momentary switch with the ability to identify a potential threat, deliver an amount of light that can affect their vision, and navigate an environment in low/no light. The ability to not only have a momentary light source, but be able to convulsively hit the button and get to high mode (as long as the tailcap is screwed on tight enough to engage high mode) with no turning selector rings, no tapping, no clicking, no sliding, makes it the number one choice for the following criteria:

1) Tactical ability: The roughly 80-100 lumens on high is just right for searching inside or outside a structure. The throw gives you a good beam you can put in a potential adversary's face to identify them. The momentary button guarantees that you won't accidentally push it too hard and click it on. If dropped, it will shut off and not illuminate you. 

2) Everyday Portability: The other side of the L1: Able to be carried in a pocket as an EDC utility "always have it on you" light, no clickie to be stuck on by other objects in the pocket (I've had the L1 blink on in a pants pocket once or twice if I move a certain way, but it cannot be stuck on), something that you can choose to clip on the outside of a pocket if you're wearing jeans or cargo pants, but can slip into the pocket with khakis or suit pants. It can be clipped on a hat, it can be turned on low for close-up utility work, it can be diffused with the cap from a water bottle.

If you can name another light with that amount of output, with the intuitive convulsive interface *able to get to high mode under stress without looking at the light*, the option of a lower-output setting, with the solid Surefire build quality and product support, handy enough to keep with you 24/7, I'd love to hear about it.


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## FPSRelic (May 24, 2012)

sween1911 said:


> An important distinction for me with the L1 is that it's a tactical light FIRST that can also do utility/everyday work SECOND.



I don't see it this way. I actually think of them as being an exellent general purpose light. While the gen6's might be bright enough to compare to the tactical lights of old, the other generations are just too dim. Also, I see primary tactical lights as having only one full blast mode to keep things as simple as possible, such as the 6px tactical.




> If you can name another light with that amount of output, with the intuitive convulsive interface *able to get to high mode under stress without looking at the light*, the option of a lower-output setting, with the solid Surefire build quality and product support, handy enough to keep with you 24/7, I'd love to hear about it.



What about the Surefire LX2?


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## sween1911 (May 24, 2012)

FPSRelic said:


> I don't see it this way. I actually think of them as being an exellent general purpose light. While the gen6's might be bright enough to compare to the tactical lights of old, the other generations are just too dim. Also, I see primary tactical lights as having only one full blast mode to keep things as simple as possible, such as the 6px tactical.


 I agree, only the last generation with the "65" lumen rating puts it into "tactical" territory. The reason I add the "utility light second" is because it has a secondary mode. I agree with you, primary tactical lights are the ones with one full blast simple mode.



> What about the Surefire LX2?



 Good one. The size of the L1 edges it out for me... if I'm going business casual with a polo and khakis, or shirt and tie, the L1 can slip into a pants pocket. The LX2 down in a pocket doesn't carry quite as comfortably, and I might not want to clip it to my belt or to the top of a pocket. If there were an LX1 (L1X? I forget, which one did they announce but not actually make?) I'd put that ahead of the L1. There's a new Executive-Backup version coming out I think (EB1?) with the Backup's look, but with the L1's two-stage tailcap. Gotta get me some of that.


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## Filip (Jul 26, 2012)

An hour ago I received a new L1 (6th generation). I paid local SF dealer $50. It's much smaller and more beautiful than I expected, the tint is perfectly white. Oh, and it makes a great looking couple together with A2 when lying on the desk ;-).


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## Up All Night (Jul 26, 2012)

Filip said:


> An hour ago I received a new L1 (6th generation). I paid local SF dealer $50. It's much smaller and more beautiful than I expected, the tint is perfectly white. Oh, and it makes a great looking couple together with A2 when lying on the desk ;-).



NEW 6th gen L1, perfectly white tint, $50! I'm assuming that is US dollars. Nice score!:thumbsup: If I could find that deal I'd buy two!......Or more!


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## FPSRelic (Jul 26, 2012)

Yep that's definately a good score. Enloy your new light Filip


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## Pöbel (Jul 27, 2012)

Although I stopped EDCing my L1 because it's a tad too long, I still love and admire this light. Have the emitter switched to neutral XP-E. Although consuming little power on high it still packs sufficient punch to rival with much higher lumen lights. The grip of the knurling ist just stunning. And the UI... well, no better UI for a 2 level light out there.


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## Bogie (Jul 27, 2012)

Filip said:


> An hour ago I received a new L1 (6th generation). I paid local SF dealer $50. It's much smaller and more beautiful than I expected, the tint is perfectly white. Oh, and it makes a great looking couple together with A2 when lying on the desk ;-).



I would have JUMPED on that, probably bought 2 especially since I don't own a white one.


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## r_x (Aug 11, 2012)

Although not bright by today's standards, the L1 is still relevant to me. I have been carrying my 6th gen L1 quite a bit lately with a P7 suspension clip on the lanyard attachment ring.

Recently I noticed that if I hit the low momentary, release and press again in less than 1 second I will have a second low mode at less than half the regular low mode. When it is in this lower low, I can twist the tailcap to leave it on in this mode. I find the regular low to be quite bright for navigating around the house at night, but the lower low seems perfect. Has anyone else experienced this with their L1s?


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## MattSPL (Aug 11, 2012)

Which Gen L1 can fit a 17670 after boring?

Cheers
Matt


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## HotWire (Aug 11, 2012)

I just dug out my SureFire Digital L1 light. It was my first SureFire and when I bought it was was considered *bright.* Ha! It is a two-state low/high UI with typical SF twisty. I've been sneaking around the house for days now wondering why I first put it away! By today's standards is is not bright, but it is _bright enough_ and has a long runtime. Love my L1!


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## skyfire (Aug 11, 2012)

MattSPL said:


> Which Gen L1 can fit a 17670 after boring?
> 
> Cheers
> Matt



the pic that kestral posted looks like a 5th gen body. 1st to 5th gen bodies are the same length, the difference is that 1st to 4th gen have 4-flat sides.
the 6th gen body is the latest models, and those are about 25% shorter.

i finally picked up an E1L recently, and EDCed it for the past week. so far, the L1 is still my ideal UI for edc. :thumbsup:


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## MattSPL (Aug 11, 2012)

skyfire said:


> the pic that kestral posted looks like a 5th gen body. 1st to 5th gen bodies are the same length, the difference is that 1st to 4th gen have 4-flat sides.
> the 6th gen body is the latest models, and those are about 25% shorter.
> 
> i finally picked up an E1L recently, and EDCed it for the past week. so far, the L1 is still my ideal UI for edc. :thumbsup:



Ok, thanks for the info :thumbsup:


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## tobrien (Aug 11, 2012)

HotWire said:


> I just dug out my SureFire Digital L1 light. It was my first SureFire and when I bought it was was considered *bright.* Ha! It is a two-state low/high UI with typical SF twisty. I've been sneaking around the house for days now wondering why I first put it away! By today's standards is is not bright, but it is _bright enough_ and has a long runtime. Love my L1!



nice! is it any certain color or is it white?


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## BenChiew (Aug 21, 2012)

r_x said:


> Although not bright by today's standards, the L1 is still relevant to me. I have been carrying my 6th gen L1 quite a bit lately with a P7 suspension clip on the lanyard attachment ring.
> 
> Recently I noticed that if I hit the low momentary, release and press again in less than 1 second I will have a second low mode at less than half the regular low mode. When it is in this lower low, I can twist the tailcap to leave it on in this mode. I find the regular low to be quite bright for navigating around the house at night, but the lower low seems perfect. Has anyone else experienced this with their L1s?



Really???


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## pjandyho (Aug 21, 2012)

Benchiew said:


> Really???


Yes it's real. Been trying with my L1 after reading r_x's post and I could occasionally achieve a lower low of about half of what the original low is giving, but it is too troublesome and too unpredictable for me to even bother with it.


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## Dan FO (Aug 21, 2012)

Isn't the new EB1 200 lumen with the tactical switch about the same thing as an L1?


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## BenChiew (Aug 27, 2012)

Dan FO said:


> Isn't the new EB1 200 lumen with the tactical switch about the same thing as an L1?



It may be if they release it.


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## BenChiew (Aug 27, 2012)

pjandyho said:


> Yes it's real. Been trying with my L1 after reading r_x's post and I could occasionally achieve a lower low of about half of what the original low is giving, but it is too troublesome and too unpredictable for me to even bother with it.



I have to try it again. could not get it to work.


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## pjandyho (Aug 27, 2012)

Benchiew said:


> I have to try it again. could not get it to work.


You have to look carefully. You won't notice a drastic difference actually. Sometimes it's only a tad less bright but occasionally it's about half the brightness. That's why I said it is too troublesome to even bother trying.


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## manoloco (Aug 27, 2012)

sween1911 said:


> If you can name another light with that amount of output, with the intuitive convulsive interface *able to get to high mode under stress without looking at the light*, the option of a lower-output setting, with the solid Surefire build quality and product support, handy enough to keep with you 24/7, I'd love to hear about it.



Peak Logan generation 2 QTC with momentary switch, the 17500 body accepts AA, AAA, and any chemistry/voltage variation in those sizes, also available on 123 body size. Around 300 Lumens in high

Even more portable with the same characteristics Peak Eiger second gen QTC AAA also with momentary switch, but for tactical purposes, it might be too small, this is the light that is always with me, this light on Li-ion is 225 Lumens (which is great for a bombproof AAA).

I have a couple of Surefire L1 and i love it, but its bigger than the other 2 lights, and the tailcap while great, after too much work looses contacts inside on the PCB, there are 3 contacts soldered to the PCB, after a lot of use they start to break, The great Surefire guarantee replaces it quickly, but after it being discontinued i dont know how that will go, around 3-4 years ago they sent me a replacement and it was great, then a couple of years ago the other L1 had the same problem and i asked for a replacement, they responded me, and halfway through the communications i lost them, no reply yet, dont know what happened, will send another mail to see if they respond, also the rubber cap of the momentary button deteriorates faster because it endures a lot more pressure than a clicky.

Peaks are bombproof, i dare to say they are even more resilient than the Surefires i have, the only drawback is that the QTC can be a little less precise after a lot of use but i have found a couple of fixes that solve the problem and its better to have something that will still work good after a lot of use (you loose precision in levels between low and high, but high will always be there and the light will never fail to turn on), and its definitely better than having to wait for a replacement part.

But if you put both Surefire and Peak quality to compare with other lights they are both on the top tier of production lights.

One GOOD advice: buy through Oveready, they have the BEST service and post sale service i have ever had.


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## r_x (Aug 27, 2012)

pjandyho said:


> You have to look carefully. You won't notice a drastic difference actually. Sometimes it's only a tad less bright but occasionally it's about half the brightness. That's why I said it is too troublesome to even bother trying.



I can get the lower low about 9 times out of 10 and the output looks to be about the same every time. I took some shots of the difference in my lows. Both shots are ISO400 F3.0 1/10.


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## manoloco (Aug 28, 2012)

r_x said:


> I can get the lower low about 9 times out of 10 and the output looks to be about the same every time. I took some shots of the difference in my lows. Both shots are ISO400 F3.0 1/10.



Thanks for the info, after reading about this i tried it on my L1 and works perfectly, like r_x wrote, the result is very steady, and i can get it without failing, but making it constant by twisting is uncomfortable to do, in a relaxed situation the twist lowest is very doable too.

interesting find!


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## Filip (Aug 28, 2012)

Sorry for the OT but could you be more specific, please?



manoloco said:


> ...the only drawback is that the QTC can be a little less precise after a lot of use but i have found a couple of fixes that solve the problem...


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## manoloco (Aug 28, 2012)

Filip said:


> Sorry for the OT but could you be more specific, please?



Sure, sorry to leave the idea hanging and not explaining it.

For the Peak Eiger QTC v2 i just slice in half (half the thickness) a new square of QTC material that goes inside the pill, so its left thinner but with the same surface.

i take out the circle of QTC material that comes with the pill and insert this thinner square, works great.

What this does is stabilizes the top part of the pill (the one with the hexagon), so the sides of the top part stay parallel to the bottom part, this prevents imprecision with the high mode, or full conductivity.

Dont know if it will be less durable this way, i also want to try making a bigger circle and just found the right tool to make it (the sleeve of a mechanical pen), looks like its the perfect size, just have to trim it in it widest part to make it work, will try later at home.

But its working great and reliably as it is.

Chalk it up to answer #987234567889 to the question: "What the hell do you need to carry a knife for?"


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## Filip (Aug 29, 2012)

Thank you, manoloco, I will give it a try (since I have a spare QTC).


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## Blindasabat (Aug 29, 2012)

r_x said:


> Recently I noticed that if I hit the low momentary, release and press again in less than 1 second I will have a second low mode at less than half the regular low mode. When it is in this lower low, I can twist the tailcap to leave it on in this mode. I find the regular low to be quite bright for navigating around the house at night, but the lower low seems perfect. Has anyone else experienced this with their L1s?


I posted about this effect on L1's modified with higher resistance tailcaps. I have modified all but one of mine with 30-100 ohm resistors. The effect is far more pronounced with very high resistance. My 100 ohm modified L1 has an ultra low second low. Much lower than the original gen1 low and even lower than the HDS lowest setting.


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## anethema (Aug 29, 2012)

sween1911 said:


> If you can name another light with that amount of output, with the intuitive convulsive interface *able to get to high mode under stress without looking at the light*, the option of a lower-output setting, with the solid Surefire build quality and product support, handy enough to keep with you 24/7, I'd love to hear about it.



This obvious answer to this is an HDS clicky LE/Tactical.

Instantly get to high from off or low, momentary or latched, with 0 thought or under any stress. I'd put the build quality above surefire, there is a VERY low option, or a normal low option, and the product support is supposedly second to none. Not to mention the output BLOWS the surefire away on one 123 cell.

I'm sure there would be other options too but maybe not so many that can combine it all so well in one package. There is a reason the HDS threads have 100's of pages of posts and is now at least on its 16th iteration of such.


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## manoloco (Aug 29, 2012)

Filip said:


> Thank you, manoloco, I will give it a try (since I have a spare QTC).



I just tried making a bigger circle of QTC material (a size almost identical to the identation on the top pill part on an Eiger) it works good too, but will have to see if it keeps like that in the coming days, hoping the QTC material is now wide enough to keep the discs parallel, and also by fitting with less play inside the little identation the disc should tilt less.

will let know

a couple of notes : if you decide to go with the thinner QTC it might not last as long as a circle that can fit inside the identation because nothing is preventing it from being compressed too much, also something that could be considered a pro or a con depending on the subject is that with the thinner QTC, its more sensitive and requires less force to push the momentary or twist.


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## FPSRelic (Aug 29, 2012)

anethema said:


> This obvious answer to this is an HDS clicky LE/Tactical.
> 
> Instantly get to high from off or low, momentary or latched, with 0 thought or under any stress. I'd put the build quality above surefire, there is a VERY low option, or a normal low option, and the product support is supposedly second to none. Not to mention the output BLOWS the surefire away on one 123 cell.
> 
> I'm sure there would be other options too but maybe not so many that can combine it all so well in one package. There is a reason the HDS threads have 100's of pages of posts and is now at least on its 16th iteration of such.



One thing you don't get with the Clicky is the ability to use momentary low OR momentary high with one press - it's either one or the other depending on what you program it for. The build quality is certainly better than Surefire's, but not by a grat margin. And I'm sure that the light output of the clicky can blow the Surefire's away in a Light Integration Sphere, but the L1 beats the HDS for throw. I find the L1's low mode more serviceable for general purpose tasks. It's all fine and good to have a light that will last for 144 hours on paper, but if you find yourself using it at one or two levels above medium, the runtime benefit sort of goes away.

As for the 16 thread HDS discussion, well, I think a lot of it has to do with it being one of the more feature rich lights out there. 200 lumen high, sub-lumen 144 hour runtime low. Built in power management for rechargables, the ability to program it up with a multitude of different outputs and modes. Potted electronics, Acme threads, excellent build quality, lifetime warranty. Even with the stuff that I can rattle off the top of my head, it's one of the more intelligent light's out there, and a flashaholic's wet dream.

But as for usability, I tend to prefer my 6th gen L1. Your mileage however, may vary


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## anethema (Aug 29, 2012)

Yeah true but whichever you program, a double click press gets you either. Hold for momentary or just click to stay on. Amazingly easy. I have mine click and hold for momentary use on medium, and a double click for max output.

And yes being fully potted, amazing service and warranty, etc I think personally it fulfills that guy's request about a comparable light. You may like one thing on one a bit more than another etc but I would def put it in same league (or IMO, much much better due to the other criteria you list  )


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## skyfire (Aug 30, 2012)

anethema said:


> Yeah true but whichever you program, a double click press gets you either. Hold for momentary or just click to stay on. Amazingly easy. I have mine click and hold for momentary use on medium, and a double click for max output.
> 
> And yes being fully potted, amazing service and warranty, etc I think personally it fulfills that guy's request about a comparable light. You may like one thing on one a bit more than another etc but I would def put it in same league (or IMO, much much better due to the other criteria you list  )



HDS are great, i EDCed a clicky for well over a year. but i much prefer the UI of my L1. its quick and simple. one night my brother-in-law randomly grabbed one of my lights on the desk to check under his car hood, he came right back in and said my HDS sucked cause he couldnt work it LoL, I had it set up for about 2 lumens when it clicks on. 
in terms of brightness, if you put a RCR123 in a 6th gen L1, its blazing! as bright as my E2DL. even with a primary its no slouch, it looks much brighter than its rated 65 lumens.

its runtimes are also very impressive considering you get alot more lumens than HDS' low low modes for around the same time. a test was done on a HDS rotary, and it got 128 hours of sub-lumen level. a HDS clicky would get better runtime but not by a whole lot. 
i did a runtime test on my L1 and got well over 100 hours, but for half that time it was at about 7 lumens, then it would gradually drop down to a sub lumen.

i do miss having a low low mode on my EDC at times, i usually just cover part of the beam in those situations.
im not saying one is better than the other, just saying i like my L1 more. :thumbsup:


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## leon2245 (Aug 30, 2012)

Filip said:


> Sorry for the OT but could you be more specific



Doesn't look too bad. IDK if they,re new, or how much use these had seen at by tme of this demo:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKY5A03q-Vs


Either way I like the L1, but no one can deny that "SLICES of _Quantum Tunneling _Composite" is one of the most awesome sounding features in a flashlight yet.


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## anethema (Aug 30, 2012)

I think we're mostly in agreement Just sayin if you bought the light AS a tactical type light, program it to come on bright, and use double click as your dimmer mode. Then there is nothing to know. Click it comes on bright, or use it as momentary. Couldnt possibly be simpler.


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## FPSRelic (Aug 30, 2012)

anethema said:


> Couldnt possibly be simpler.



....Provided you don't have to program it that way yourself


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## manoloco (Aug 30, 2012)

anethema said:


> I think we're mostly in agreement Just sayin if you bought the light AS a tactical type light, program it to come on bright, and use double click as your dimmer mode. Then there is nothing to know. Click it comes on bright, or use it as momentary. Couldnt possibly be simpler.



But the L1 user interface is simpler, one push and thats it, and its more intuitive : more pressure, more light, also the button is (to me at least) a lot more comfortable to use and it can also engage when its pushed sideways, being mechanical it has some advantages but could be weaker than an electronic switch like the ones on an HDS

The Peak is simpler too (with a wide range of brightness), and i have found the twisty and the momentary on it to be a lot more reliable than any other type of switch i have tried

The HDS is however the sturdiest light you can truly tailor to your exact needs of light volume, with superb energy management, and probably the most versatile light out there.


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## bigchelis (Aug 31, 2012)

Hi all,

Im curious. I have a XPG2 4*AA light which drives the LED at 3.3A.

So, does anybody here have an L1 with XPG2 direct drive off AW 17670 cell? The XPG2 should take the heat/current with ease.

My guess is at least 600 real OTF lumens and close to 20K lux. I need an L1 to mock up now...lol

bigC


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## BenChiew (Sep 2, 2012)

pjandyho said:


> You have to look carefully. You won't notice a drastic difference actually. Sometimes it's only a tad less bright but occasionally it's about half the brightness. That's why I said it is too troublesome to even bother trying.



For the life of me, I can't get mine to work. I am using rcr123 3.7v on gen6, will this make a difference? Do I need to use primary?


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## pjandyho (Sep 2, 2012)

Benchiew said:


> For the life of me, I can't get mine to work. I am using rcr123 3.7v on gen6, will this make a difference? Do I need to use primary?


I am not sure. I am using primary CR123 though.


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## manoloco (Sep 3, 2012)

Benchiew said:


> For the life of me, I can't get mine to work. I am using rcr123 3.7v on gen6, will this make a difference? Do I need to use primary?



No primary necessary, i have tested an AW IMR for the lower low sequence and it works flawlessly


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## youreacrab (Sep 8, 2012)

I just picked up nib L1 with the new logo. Brightness on hi is a little lower than my e1b, but runtime blows it away. With a new battery it went over 2:15 continuous on hi and will still light up on hi. I'd say the light is still relevant.


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## BenChiew (Sep 10, 2012)

Yup. Finally got the sub low to work. Great discovery.


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## scout24 (May 22, 2013)

I did a recent count. I own a stock gen 2 four flats, three Milky L1 four flats, a stock gen 6, and a Milky Arnor, which is a hot-rodded descendent of the L1...  This may not be relevant. I may not be relevant. :nana: The light sure is. Relevant enough for Surefire to revisit the concept with the EB1 Tactical. You can call it an EB1 variant, but it's an L1 descendent in all areas that matter. It's still a fantastic UI, regardless of the head on the light. Compact, intuitive, robust. Add an LX2 or E1B pocketclip, depending on generation, and you're good to go.


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## bigchelis (May 22, 2013)

Surefire L1 bezel 100% stock on LX2 body

wallah. 300 plus OTF and well over 12-13K lux


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## FPSRelic (May 22, 2013)

bigchelis said:


> Surefire L1 bezel 100% stock on LX2 body
> 
> wallah. 300 plus OTF and well over 12-13K lux



Did you have to bore the LX2 body out to get the 17670 to fit?

Edit: added question mark.


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## HotWire (May 22, 2013)

I bought one of the first L1 Surefire lights. It was touted as the brightest LED in the world! (at the time). I've used it many, many times and it has never failed me. It's bright enough for most chores and is easily carried. It has only a low and high level with a twisty switch. Very reliable. Long runtime.


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## 270winchester (May 23, 2013)

I am holding onto my last gen L1 in hopes of future custom heads, since the electronics are in the body theoretically any custom heads with bigger optic or reflectors can use a dummy circuit for minimal cost.

Also, the ergonomics of the L1 is far superior to the EB1. I will miss the L-series lights.


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## FPSRelic (May 23, 2013)

270winchester said:


> I am holding onto my last gen L1 in hopes of future custom heads, since the electronics are in the body theoretically any custom heads with bigger optic or reflectors can use a dummy circuit for minimal cost.
> 
> Also, the ergonomics of the L1 is far superior to the EB1. I will miss the L-series lights.



I have to agree about the ergonomics. Also, after getting an eb1t I have to say that I can't see a big benefit in brightness over the last gen L1. Plus the brightness of the low mode of the L1 seems more useful. So to answer the question of the post: Yes, the L1 is still relevant.


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## Patrik (May 24, 2013)

Although the L1 wasnt perfect, its surely in my opinion was one of SF best lights ever. Why the production was stopped I dont know, should have been upgraded instead. I has competition, but yes still relevant.


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## chnzwh (May 25, 2013)

Put an EB1 clip on my Gen 6 L1 and it looks just right!:thumbsup:


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## chnzwh (May 25, 2013)

bigchelis said:


> Surefire L1 bezel 100% stock on LX2 body
> 
> wallah. 300 plus OTF and well over 12-13K lux



Can you run this setup for an extended period of time without any issues? 

BTW, is that a ThinkPad T530?


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## WilsonCQB1911 (May 25, 2013)

I'm not baiting, but why would one purchase an L1 now? What does it do that the E1B or EB1 don't do better? Less lumens, larger, and bezel up carry only.


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## skyfire (May 25, 2013)

WilsonCQB1911 said:


> I'm not baiting, but why would one purchase an L1 now? What does it do that the E1B or EB1 don't do better? Less lumens, larger, and bezel up carry only.



i wouldnt get the latest version of the L1 with cree LED(already got one and i dont use it much). but im always on the look out for more of the early generation L1s. like the ones in my signature pic. :thumbsup:


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## scout24 (May 25, 2013)

Bezel up can be addressed as chnzwh, myself, and many others have.E1b clip on gen6, LX2 clip on older generations. L1 on an RCR, as bigchelis shows on top of this page with a 17670, narrows if not eclipses the gap between a stock L1 and an EB1. An rcr123 or imr 123 works fine in the stock body ( gen 6 only!) with similar output as the 17670 shown. Much better knurling to hold onto, imho, with the L1 based on admittedly limited contact with the EB1. L1 felt less front heavy compared to an EB1, also.  Not EB1 bashing, just trying to address your questions.


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## 880arm (May 25, 2013)

WilsonCQB1911 said:


> I'm not baiting, but why would one purchase an L1 now? What does it do that the E1B or EB1 don't do better? Less lumens, larger, and bezel up carry only.



Although it was rated with a much lower output, the L1 has been demonstrated to outperform the 110 lumen version of the E1B. An example can be seen here from the EB1 Review thread:






In addition, the last gen L1's can run on rechargeable batteries which push the output to nearly double what the E1B can provide, albeit for a shorter length of time (about 40 minutes on an AW 16340). It doesn't quite match the EB1's performance in this configuration but it gets in the same neighborhood.

The bezel up pocket clip is a limitation to some but as chnzwh has shown that can be addressed by "borrowing" the clip from another light. 

Aside from that, it comes down to personal preference regarding the UI and body style. I routinely carry the EB1 or the L1 and they each have their place.


----------



## chnzwh (May 25, 2013)

880arm said:


> Although it was rated with a much lower output, the L1 has been demonstrated to outperform the 110 lumen version of the E1B. An example can be seen here from the EB1 Review thread:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hello Jim!

1. Are you saying that Gen 6 L1's actual output is around 110 lumens? I don't have a sphere or something, but my E1B looks brighter than both of my Gen 6 L1s.

2. Be aware that Gen 6 L1 cannot run RCR123s for an extended period of time. The last time I tried that the electronics in the body was fried (after running for roughly 30 minutes on high, continuously).


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## 880arm (May 25, 2013)

chnzwh said:


> Hello Jim!
> 
> 1. Are you saying that Gen 6 L1's actual output is around 110 lumens? I don't have a sphere or something, but my E1B looks brighter than both of my Gen 6 L1s.
> 
> 2. Be aware that Gen 6 L1 cannot run RCR123s for an extended period of time. The last time I tried that the electronics in the body was fried (after running for roughly 30 minutes on high, continuously).



1. I can only say that their output is very similar and the L1 measured slightly higher, both in my homemade light box and when taking lux readings at 5m. I only have one sample of each and they are close enough that I can't tell the difference by eye. 

2. Thanks for the tip. I actually ran the L1 for 40 minutes (+/-) on an AW 16340 for a runtime test but I only use it intermittently in normal usage. What happened to the one you fried? Did you get it repaired?


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## chnzwh (May 25, 2013)

WilsonCQB1911 said:


> I'm not baiting, but why would one purchase an L1 now? What does it do that the E1B or EB1 don't do better? Less lumens, larger, and bezel up carry only.



First of all, I'm not looking for the latest and brightest. As long as a light reaches a certain brightness level that's adequate for my usage, I'm satisfied. 

For me personally, the 1.0" bezel of L1 makes it a better fit in my EDC rotation combination, as most of the other lights use 1.0" bezels; I don't have to include filters for 1.1" bezels in my already crowded Pelican case while I already have filters for 1.0" bezels. This is purely a logistic issue.

As for the light itself, I prefer the more compact size of L1, in terms of both overall length and bezel diameter. The L1 is less front heavy and has a more balanced body diameter overall. The knurling is a plus for some but I'm generally okay with both knurling and the smoother flute design. I used to have an EB1T, but I didn't even try to carry it since it never grew on me (don't get me wrong, EB1T is an awesome light, just not for me).


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## chnzwh (May 25, 2013)

880arm said:


> 1. I can only say that their output is very similar and the L1 measured slightly higher, both in my homemade light box and when taking lux readings at 5m. I only have one sample of each and they are close enough that I can't tell the difference by eye.
> 
> 2. Thanks for the tip. I actually ran the L1 for 40 minutes (+/-) on an AW 16340 for a runtime test but I only use it intermittently in normal usage. What happened to the one you fried? Did you get it repaired?



Yes it was sent back to SureFire and they sent me a new Gen 5 body and head, along with my original tailcap.

Considering the damage was caused by out-of-specs usage, I was ready to pay for the repair. It turned out they replaced the damaged part for free plus a new head as an act of good will. Kudo to SureFire!


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## Flashlight Dave (May 26, 2013)

chnzwh said:


> Yes it was sent back to SureFire and they sent me a new Gen 5 body and head, along with my original tailcap.
> 
> Considering the damage was caused by out-of-specs usage, I was ready to pay for the repair. It turned out they replaced the damaged part for free plus a new head as an act of good will. Kudo to SureFire!



You fried a gen 6 and they sent you a gen 5??


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## Flashlight Dave (May 26, 2013)

chnzwh said:


> Hello Jim!
> 
> 1. Are you saying that Gen 6 L1's actual output is around 110 lumens? I don't have a sphere or something, but my E1B looks brighter than both of my Gen 6 L1s.
> 
> 2. Be aware that Gen 6 L1 cannot run RCR123s for an extended period of time. The last time I tried that the electronics in the body was fried (after running for roughly 30 minutes on high, continuously).



My gen 6 seems to be as bright at my E1B along with my E2L. All seems to be the same 110 lumens to my eyes (ceiling bounce)


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## chnzwh (May 26, 2013)

Flashlight Dave said:


> You fried a gen 6 and they sent you a gen 5??



Gen 5 body w/ Gen 6 head. Since the Gen 5 body is way too long (it makes the whole light almost as long as LX2), I ended up selling it in the MP.


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## archimedes (May 26, 2013)

Thanks for posting the runtime test *880arm* .... I couldn't follow that contentious "500-page" EB1 thread, but that was the general sense I got from skimming it - the main "issue" was the regulation, or lack thereof.


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## pjandyho (May 26, 2013)

Where did you guys get the E1B clip from? I don't have an E1B now and Surefire is not selling the clip as an accessory.


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## FPSRelic (May 28, 2013)

chnzwh said:


> Hello Jim!
> 
> 1. Are you saying that Gen 6 L1's actual output is around 110 lumens? I don't have a sphere or something, but my E1B looks brighter than both of my Gen 6 L1s.
> 
> 2. Be aware that Gen 6 L1 cannot run RCR123s for an extended period of time. The last time I tried that the electronics in the body was fried (after running for roughly 30 minutes on high, continuously).


Which version of gen6 do you have? I have 3 gen6 L1's and an e1b. I've found that the earlier gen6 with original logo was indeed dimmer looking and had a floodier hotspot when compared to the e1b, but the newer ones with the new Surefire logo were about identical in brightness and beam shape.


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## Flashlight Dave (May 28, 2013)

FPSRelic said:


> Which version of gen6 do you have? I have 3 gen6 L1's and an e1b. I've found that the earlier gen6 with original logo was indeed dimmer looking and had a floodier hotspot when compared to the e1b, but the newer ones with the new Surefire logo were about identical in brightness and beam shape.


I know this might be a strange question but the dimmer L1 does it have a LED that is completely covered in yellow phosphor not just the center square emitter plate but the whole thing? I have two gen 6s and one has the above described emitter. I am under the impression it is an old P bin. The other one I have has the silver plate with the yellow square emitter which I assume is the newer LED.


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## chnzwh (May 28, 2013)

FPSRelic said:


> Which version of gen6 do you have? I have 3 gen6 L1's and an e1b. I've found that the earlier gen6 with original logo was indeed dimmer looking and had a floodier hotspot when compared to the e1b, but the newer ones with the new Surefire logo were about identical in brightness and beam shape.



I have two Gen 6 L1s, one in new logo one in old logo. I just took them out and compare their beams; what you mentioned is true, the new logo L1 looks indeed brighter and narrower; its beam profile is very similar to that of E1B.


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## skyfire (May 29, 2013)

interesting... i just looked at my cree L1, and i think its the older version. its logo lettering is slanted.
i dont have a E1B, but i do have a E1L and E2L-AA, both with KX1B heads, and LX2 and the my L1 has the tightest hotspot.
i cant find my E2DL at the moment...

i dont know about the brightness, since i dont have the newer and older L1 to compare. but the focus could be due to the assembler.


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## pjandyho (May 30, 2013)

Over the years of toying with SF's range of TIR lights I have understood something from their assembly of the lens. The TIR lens is mounted on the bezel part of the head and the bezel is slotted onto the lower part of the head. Pushing the bezel in and pulling it out actually causes the beam profile to change between a tight hotspot which may be ringy on the spill or a much less tight hotspot with very smooth side spill. The trick in the assembly of the head is to get to a sweet spot where the hotspot is tight enough and the side spill is almost artifact free. Unfortunately, the tolerance in the assembly process is not consistent from light to light (even of the same model) and that's why some are getting a very tight hotspot and some are not.


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## 1313 (Jun 1, 2013)

The L1 is still a great light. I had a gen 6 for years and beat the crap out of it, I gave it away a few months ago and I missed it so much I had to find another. Found a gen 6 body with the old school head and jumped on it. I had it sent to datiled and he put an XM-L2 in it for me. Turned out great - nice and floody beam with a hotspot that throws far enough for a light this size. Dosent throw as well as the gen 6 but the old style head with a modern led makes a much better all around light for carry. 












What a great UI too.. There's a reason the McGizmo PD series is one of my favorites. With lights running more than one cell or rechargeables I think a clicky works better for the increased output (for more levels) but with the size and output of these things two is perfect IMO.


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## scout24 (Jun 1, 2013)

Very slick with the early head on the newer body. :thumbsup:


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## Kestrel (Jun 1, 2013)

All these years after getting my first (back in ~2007 or so) and now I have my fourth one incoming (three of them are Gen6's).


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## Flashlight Dave (Jun 4, 2013)

Kestrel said:


> OK, time to  this thread with some new pics. :devil:



Has anyone thought about boring out an old gen 5, inserting a 17670, and running a EB1 head on it?? Similar to the above photos but with the EB1 head?? I'm thinking better ergonomics.


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## Pöbel (Jun 25, 2013)

I put a 4000k XP-G2 into my L1 yesterday and it's now back in my EDC Rotation. Beam profile is nicer than with the old XP-G due to the narrower angle of the XP-G2. Output is more than sufficient. If your L1 has been opened before changing emitters is done in a breeze.


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## chaoss (Jun 25, 2013)

Relevant? Perhaps, but my N.I.B. Milky Gen. 2 floodmaster will be going up for sale soon. It has just sat in the box mainly because i prefer shorter lights with more output & modes.
Nice light however with a great U.I.


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## pulstar (Jun 25, 2013)

Hi Pöbel,

how big is the brightness gain? I also modded my (now sold) L1 with neutral white XM-L and it was really bright with RCR battery. 

Damn, i really wish i'd kept it back then...


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## Pöbel (Jun 25, 2013)

*AW: Surefire L1 still relevant?*

I swapped the emitter a long time ago for an xp-e. I did not take measurements before the latest swap. I mainly wanted to try the xp-g2 and move to a 4000k tint. XM-L is too flood for my liking.


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## tobrien (Jun 25, 2013)

*Re: AW: Surefire L1 still relevant?*

do y'all think a red L1 (stock config) would make a good in-car light?


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## skyfire (Jun 25, 2013)

*Re: AW: Surefire L1 still relevant?*



tobrien said:


> do y'all think a red L1 (stock config) would make a good in-car light?



i would like to say yes, since i have one for sale at the MP. 
but i dont really see a reason or situation where the red light would be better than your typical white light for in-car.
the red light is really nice for not drawing attention, because it seems red light doesnt travel far, or it doesnt bounce off things well. or it could be our eyes. i dont really know for sure, but thats what i concluded. lol

i have a xp-g2 4000k in my E1L which uses the same TIR optic i think, and the beam is really nice. i rather like it a lot. bigger hotspot, and brighter spill. and the beam still looks clean. its noticeably brighter too compared too the stock XR-E


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## Pöbel (Jun 26, 2013)

*Re: AW: Surefire L1 still relevant?*

Could somebody having an unmodified Gen6 L1 measure the current draw on high. My modified L1 pulls 610mA on high from a fresh CR123.

I'm curious whether a low Vf emitter reduces the draw from the batteries or if the draw stays about the same albeit with more current to the LED driving it even "harder".


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## tobrien (Jun 26, 2013)

*Re: AW: Surefire L1 still relevant?*



skyfire said:


> i would like to say yes, since i have one for sale at the MP.
> but i dont really see a reason or situation where the red light would be better than your typical white light for in-car.
> the red light is really nice for not drawing attention, because it seems red light doesnt travel far, or it doesnt bounce off things well. or it could be our eyes. i dont really know for sure, but thats what i concluded. lol
> 
> i have a xp-g2 4000k in my E1L which uses the same TIR optic i think, and the beam is really nice. i rather like it a lot. bigger hotspot, and brighter spill. and the beam still looks clean. its noticeably brighter too compared too the stock XR-E



haha your sale prompted me to wonder! 

thank you for your input 

I have some thinking to do lol


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## tobrien (Nov 26, 2013)

*Re: AW: Surefire L1 still relevant?*

quick question: are the 4th and 5th gen L1's the way to go?


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## archimedes (Nov 26, 2013)

I prefer the Gen 2/3 versions ....


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## tobrien (Nov 26, 2013)

archimedes said:


> I prefer the Gen 2/3 versions ....



is the narrower mode spacing 'gap' your reason for preferring gens 2/3?


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## skyfire (Nov 26, 2013)

tobrien said:


> is the narrower mode spacing 'gap' your reason for preferring gens 2/3?



i also like the 1st, 2nd, 3rd generation L1 more for its ergonomics. the 4-flats body, and especially its bezel. the bezel helps provide a more secure over-hand grip when mashing down on the tailswitch. my pinky finger wraps around the bezel right above the anti-roll hexagon area (the anti-roll also works great, set the light down, it rocks a little and stays put). the newer round heads dont feel as nice because my pinky would be wrapped around the widest part of the light, and its smooth.
another reason why i like the earlier tapered head version is because it uses a 20mm optic. i have a bunch of 20mm optics from carlco, as well as other makers, and some reflectors that are all an easy fit.

as far as mode spacing, its really because of the LED. those older luxeons just arent very bright, so its high mode is lacking. ive tried a XP-G, nichia 219, SSC p4, XP-E2 emitters in my 1st gen L1, and its high and low modes are spaced well, similar to my E1L.

if youre still inquiring about the "red" L1, again its the LED. my red L1 is a gen 4, and its high mode isnt very high. i think it uses a luxeon, but i could be wrong.
ive tried a red XP-E emitter in my L1 also, and its high mode was much brighter, but for whatever reason it has a high-pitched whine using that LED. i tried that head with a few different bodies and it still whines, some louder than others, so i took it out and decided to keep my stock red L1 instead.


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## archimedes (Nov 26, 2013)

tobrien said:


> is the narrower mode spacing 'gap' your reason for preferring gens 2/3?





skyfire said:


> i also like the 1st, 2nd, 3rd generation L1 more for its ergonomics. the 4-flats body, and especially its bezel....



Yep ... ergos


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## skyfire (Nov 26, 2013)

archimedes said:


> Yep ... ergos



even though the non gen6 L1 were longer, about the size of the E2E. its a perfect fit for my medium sized hands. ive found the gen6 L1 to be too short.
reasons being... with the dual-stage tailcap, you want your thumb to be positioned to activate both low, and high mode with ease. so when i grip the L1 i want almost the entire tailcap to be exposed so my thumb rests at the optimal position to activate its modes. this also allows for easy turning of the tailcap using your thumb and index finger for its constant on modes.

of course this can differ from person to person depending on hand size. the early gen L1s are a perfect fit for my hand, but i handed it to a friend of mine with extra large sized hands, and the light disappear in his fist. the LX2 would be a better fit for his hand size.


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## tobrien (Nov 27, 2013)

skyfire said:


> i also like the 1st, 2nd, 3rd generation L1 more for its ergonomics. the 4-flats body, and especially its bezel. the bezel helps provide a more secure over-hand grip when mashing down on the tailswitch. my pinky finger wraps around the bezel right above the anti-roll hexagon area (the anti-roll also works great, set the light down, it rocks a little and stays put). the newer round heads dont feel as nice because my pinky would be wrapped around the widest part of the light, and its smooth.
> another reason why i like the earlier tapered head version is because it uses a 20mm optic. i have a bunch of 20mm optics from carlco, as well as other makers, and some reflectors that are all an easy fit.
> 
> as far as mode spacing, its really because of the LED. those older luxeons just arent very bright, so its high mode is lacking. ive tried a XP-G, nichia 219, SSC p4, XP-E2 emitters in my 1st gen L1, and its high and low modes are spaced well, similar to my E1L.
> ...





skyfire said:


> even though the non gen6 L1 were longer, about the size of the E2E. its a perfect fit for my medium sized hands. ive found the gen6 L1 to be too short.
> reasons being... with the dual-stage tailcap, you want your thumb to be positioned to activate both low, and high mode with ease. so when i grip the L1 i want almost the entire tailcap to be exposed so my thumb rests at the optimal position to activate its modes. this also allows for easy turning of the tailcap using your thumb and index finger for its constant on modes.
> 
> of course this can differ from person to person depending on hand size. the early gen L1s are a perfect fit for my hand, but i handed it to a friend of mine with extra large sized hands, and the light disappear in his fist. the LX2 would be a better fit for his hand size.





archimedes said:


> Yep ... ergos


ah thank you both! i didn't even notice the 4th gens lacked the hex bezel. 

so regarding the fourth generation's introduction of the lens, how much of a difference--if any-- does the lens make? I do have big hands (I'm a tall guy anyways lol) so I'll definitely skip a 6th gen but see if I can make a 2/3/4 gen L1 work well for me. all generation L1s came with a two-stage tail though right?

thanks again for both of y'alls input btw


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## archimedes (Nov 27, 2013)

With SureFire there are often rare variants and prototypes, but yes, I believe that all standard production L1 had 2-stage tactical/momentary tailswitches.


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## skyfire (Nov 27, 2013)

the 4th and 5th gen heads have the domed lens. it puts out a beam that is extremely focus, much like a aspheric beam. it casts a beam that looks like the shape of the LED, with artifacts, and rings. i put on some of phaserburn's diffuser film on my gen4 and it cleans it up, while still have pretty good throw. its beam looks like a ball of light now.

as far as i know all L1 have the dual-stage momentary.

the 6th gen L1 is very nice, dont get me wrong, but for me it was redundant to have. i already have 4 L1s, and an E1L so my 6th gen L1 never got used.
the beam of the 6th gen is typical of surefires TIR+XR-E heads. my 6th gen body is the only body that can fit a RCR123. all my 4-flats bodies cannot.

my preference of models would be... 1st, 3rd, 2nd, 6th, 4th, then 5th.


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## archimedes (Nov 27, 2013)

skyfire said:


> ....my preference of models would be... 1st, 3rd, 2nd, 6th, 4th, then 5th.



My preferred order would be ... 3rd, 2nd, 1st, 4th, 6th, 5th


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## FPSRelic (Nov 28, 2013)

Well I'm going to go against the flow and say that the 6th gen is my favourite - at least when comparing them all unmodified.


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## Cypher_Aod (Nov 29, 2013)

Does anyone have a line on people modding L1s at the moment? I have a beautiful, pristine Gen.4 L1 that I bought from a police officer who visited my shop, as he found it insufficiently bright for his needs.

I'd like to change the LED to something more modern, like an XP-G2, preferably while retaining the tightly focused TIR optic.

I contacted Milkyspit but I believe he's still unavailable at this time, poor chap.


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## rolling (Dec 2, 2013)

I put an XM-L2 in my 6th gen L1 and now it shines again


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## pulstar (Feb 22, 2014)

Damn, now i really wish i hadn't sold mine...  Do you guys now any store that still has some L1's in stock?


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## tobrien (Feb 22, 2014)

pulstar said:


> Damn, now i really wish i hadn't sold mine...  Do you guys now any store that still has some L1's in stock?



I doubt there will be any posted online through regular retail stores. AFAIK, most people on CPF are getting these discontinued SF lights by going _into_ gun and hunting stores and just asking them if they have any old stock laying around. :/


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## warpdrive (Feb 28, 2014)

how can I tell which gen I have? I bought one a while back but I'm not sure which gen it is?


It looks like the short body style and the lens is flat. But the TIR doesn't look frosted


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## flashlight nut (Feb 28, 2014)

Flashlight Guide has a detailed spec sheet on each of the 6 generations. I'm sure you can figure out which generation is yours with that info.


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## Sean (Feb 28, 2014)

pulstar said:


> Damn, now i really wish i hadn't sold mine...  Do you guys now any store that still has some L1's in stock?



Look on ebay.


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## sgt253 (Sep 27, 2014)

Just purchased a NIP Gen 6 L1 from the MarketPlace. I am very pleased. I have read a lot of information over the years about the L1. Now I can say that it was definitely, "worth the wait!" The UI is perfect for me, the ergonomics are great, and the output is definitely more than "65 lumens". Although I have brighter, I love this light!

Regards.


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## 880arm (Sep 27, 2014)

Congratulations! The L1 is one of the best lights ever made.


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## Xacto (Sep 27, 2014)

Still one of my "go to" lights together with a red filter when I need a low level light at night.

Cheers
Thorsten


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## LumensMaximus (Sep 27, 2014)

I picked up a newer L1 on Ebay 6 months ago or so and to my surprise the beam looks square very similar to an earlier E1L I used to have. I didn't think the bezels were interchangeable, is that possible??


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## Bogie (Sep 28, 2014)

I believe the 5 th gen ones had square beams. I have a green one that us very square.


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## pulstar (Apr 23, 2015)

I was able to snag a L1 from ebay yesterday. Since i had already owned one and regretfully sold it later i am really anticipatikg this light! I will probably treat it with some nice neutral XP-G2. Back to the basics i guess, two way switch is really a piece of art!


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## Kestrel (Apr 23, 2015)

pulstar said:


> [...] I will probably treat it with some nice neutral XP-G2. Back to the basics i guess, two way switch is really a piece of art!


Actually it was some of your postings a few years back that made me realize just how good of a match the XM-L is with the existing TIR optic; two of my L1's now have 5000K XM-L2's in them and they are some of my favorite lights.


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## cland72 (Apr 23, 2015)

Kestrel said:


> Actually it was some of your postings a few years back that made me realize just how good of a match the XM-L is with the existing TIR optic; two of my L1's now have 5000K XM-L2's in them and they are some of my favorite lights.



I received a KX2C Scout Light that (I'm assuming) had a XML(2?) mod - it certainly was brighter, and provided a massive wall of light compared to the stock output. However, it seemed that it didn't throw as far as a stock KX2C. 

Do you have any lux/candela numbers comparing the factory L1 head to one modded with a XML2?


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## Kestrel (Apr 23, 2015)

cland72 said:


> [...]Do you have any lux/candela numbers comparing the factory L1 head to one modded with a XML2?


No I don't, but you are right in that it changes the flashlight dramatically - from a tight hotspot to a more useful (IMO) smooth flood.

Definitely more overall output, but way less lux after the mod. Pulstar posted some pretty good beamshots a few years back.


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## cland72 (Apr 23, 2015)

Kestrel said:


> No I don't, but you are right in that it changes the flashlight dramatically - from a tight hotspot to a more useful (IMO) smooth flood.
> 
> Definitely more overall output, but way less lux after the mod. Pulstar posted some pretty good beamshots a few years back.



Thanks! I searched his posts and found it:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...tral-XML-mod&p=3647129&viewfull=1#post3647129


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## Kestrel (Apr 23, 2015)

My goodness has it been four years already? How time flies ... 

Edit: I do have an unmodified L1 as well; I've been meaning to take some comparison beamshots and post them but haven't had the time at all.


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## pulstar (Apr 23, 2015)

Kestrel said:


> Actually it was some of your postings a few years back that made me realize just how good of a match the XM-L is with the existing TIR optic; two of my L1's now have 5000K XM-L2's in them and they are some of my favorite lights.



Glad i could help!:twothumbs But thinking about it, it is really curious how things worked out: I sold almost all my Surefires, tried different brands, UI's, but after a few years I came back to the same lights that i had basically started with


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## jds1 (Apr 23, 2015)

Jeff


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## pulstar (Apr 27, 2015)

Great looking light! What generation is it?


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## cland72 (Apr 27, 2015)

pulstar said:


> Great looking light! What generation is it?



It looks exactly like a L1-RD I picked up recently, and I was told it was a Gen 2 or Gen 3.

I've been using the SMACK out of that L1-RD. It comes in extremely handy at night after the wife goes to bed.


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## archimedes (Apr 27, 2015)

pulstar said:


> Great looking light! What generation is it?


It's a bit difficult to be certain from the photo ... is the bezel totally flat, or does it have slight crenellations ?


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## RedLED (Apr 27, 2015)

I still have several L1 Surefire's, and consider it one of my all time favorite lights and still a great flashlight. 

Just take a look at the quality which went in to making these, first class all the way. I love mine and always will. 

Not all lights need to light the moon on a dark night, they are still wonderful flashlights. 

They will ill be wonderful for some time. If you have one Keep it.


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## scout24 (Apr 27, 2015)

Oh, that's well said. ^^^^^


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## jds1 (Apr 27, 2015)

archimedes said:


> It's a bit difficult to be certain from the photo ... is the bezel totally flat, or does it have slight crenellations ?



It has a slightly crenelated bezel. Generation 2?

I think I bought this with a green LED and shortly thereafter sent it in for a Milky Mod.

Jeff


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## archimedes (Apr 27, 2015)

jds1 said:


> It has a slightly crenelated bezel. Generation 2?....



Yes, Gen2 or Gen3 - both are externally the same ... and my favorite version(s)


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## Dingle1911 (Apr 29, 2015)

This thread inspired me to pull out my L1. I run a Surefire K2 3 volt battery. Especially with a diffuser this light fulfills the EDC roll perfectly. I also swapped the clip to a 2 way backup clip and added an Oveready tail shroud.


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## RobertMM (Apr 30, 2015)

I've EDC'd a 6th Gen L1 for a long time, sometimes using an IMR16340 and sometimes a fresh primary if I predict I'll be needing longer runtime.
When my E1b's clip broke Surefire sent me a replacement plus an extra(thank you SF! Very kind of you), I put the extra on my L1 and it works a lot better, looks great too. 
One thing I also like about my L1 is the low mode rared at 10 lumens(seems more like 20+ to me). I find it a much more general purpose brightness than my E1b's 5 lumen low, plus with the L1's two stage tailcap, I never have to see high mode unless I need to.


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## sgt253 (Apr 30, 2015)

I, like Robert MM, carry one daily for work. Love the interface, plenty bright on both modes, = winner!


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## RobertMM (Apr 30, 2015)

Yup I still carry mine everday, provides all the brightness I need and the throw especially with the IMR cell is great to have.

I do wonder about one thing:
Someone mentioned sometime ago a lower "low" mode for the L1 and I can regularly turn on my L1 in this mode consistently by tapping twice on the button without engaging high mode, and from what they said it's true that the lower "low" is about half the brightness of the usual low mode. 
What I wonder about is that will using this lower "low" yield longer runtime? Or whatever current the LED doesn't get is maybe lost or dissipated in the electronics?


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## sgt253 (May 1, 2015)

I too can get that lower "low" by double tapping the regular "low". I dont know the runtime. I never tried a runtime test. i would be interested in knowing.


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## cland72 (May 1, 2015)

I have a number of lights I can choose from, but my two L1s (square body red and gen 6 white) get the most rotation time lately. I pick them over my E1L, E1B, A2-WH, and LX2. L1 is the perfect size and the knurling is great. I've been eyeing a pocket clip from the EB1 lights, because it looks like it is longer than the two way clip on the E1B, and might just be the perfect match for the L1 cree.


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## cland72 (May 5, 2015)

Someone just posted four various L1 models (including L1-GN) on eBay for sale with buy it now prices between $105-120. Get on 'em quick if you're in need...


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## pulstar (May 8, 2015)

To guys who are running reachargeable batteries in your L1's: what are the batteries that fit and work with L1 (sixth generation)? I tried Eagtac and Keepower 16430 in mine but they don't work. It seems that the positive battery contact isn't high enough...


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## Dingle1911 (May 8, 2015)

My go to cells are the Surefire K2 energy 3.2v rechargeable batteries. The black label AW 16340 work as well, but I didn't see enough increase in output to justify the risk of cooking the light.


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## skyfire (May 9, 2015)

AW RCR123 fits, and works fine in gen 6 bodies. a noticeable increase in output as well. i only tested it out after reading that its possible. i prefer running primaries for the longer run times, and cause im too lazy to charge my li-ion batteries.


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## pulstar (May 10, 2015)

Thank you for replies guys! I simply added a solder blob on one of my Eagtac 16430's and it works! This light is gonna be great for my upcoming USA trip (late honeymoon)


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## bullfrog (May 10, 2015)

pulstar said:


> Thank you for replies guys! I simply added a solder blob on one of my Eagtac 16430's and it works! This light is gonna be great for my upcoming USA trip (late honeymoon)



Have a good trip! That will be a great companion, other than your wife  

Regarding rcr s, I've been using aw lifep04s in all my lights, L1 included. Yes not as powerful as the standard rcrs, but I like the safer chemistry....


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## RobertMM (May 10, 2015)

I want to use LiFePO4s too for my L1 and E1e (tana dropin, 3.6V max) but they are rare in my country, so the L1 has AW IMR 16340 with primaries for backup. Works very well though.


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## bigchelis (May 14, 2015)

The newer LED's and more efficient we get them available the more relevant the Surefire L1 becomes thanks to its regulated driver which I have found to regulate up to 4.2V very well wish slight increase in lumens too.

If I recall correctly 3yrs ago I had built about 10 of them to be direct drive with XML's. The driver would regulate with IMR 16340 and about 1A at the tailcap yet provided over 300 OTF lumens minutes into the runtime tests.


Now, I would imagine the same stock driver with an XML2 or XPG2 at 1A via 4.2V cell would very well do 500 lumens or Even 1500 easy in a E2e body with IMR 16650 cell.


Heck, I am getting another L1 just to use the bezel with XPG2 and DD off IMR 18650 which these days generate 4~5A. Easy 700 OTF with hopefully now reaching 30K lux to boot.


best,
bigC


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## pulstar (May 25, 2015)

Ok, a small update: I've been using L1 for a while now and it has been great! Superb throw, with adequate spill. Heck, even tint is quite pleasing to the eye:twothumbs But even that won't save it from a heart transplant - XP-G2 is on it's way. In the meantime i just want to share a few pictures of my L1, along with it's siblings


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## recDNA (May 25, 2015)

bigchelis said:


> The newer LED's and more efficient we get them available the more relevant the Surefire L1 becomes thanks to its regulated driver which I have found to regulate up to 4.2V very well wish slight increase in lumens too.
> 
> If I recall correctly 3yrs ago I had built about 10 of them to be direct drive with XML's. The driver would regulate with IMR 16340 and about 1A at the tailcap yet provided over 300 OTF lumens minutes into the runtime tests.
> 
> ...


I'm confused. Why would it only draw 1 amp with an imr 16340? I would have expected almost 3 amps.


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## Fuchshp (May 25, 2015)

Good evening

Is a new, unused L1 5th gen and a new, unused L1 6th gen worth something to a collector when they are still in their original packing?

Kind regards,
Hp


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## bullfrog (May 25, 2015)

Well... My L1 is officially retired and sold. 

Blasphemy maybe, but I've been carrying the newer E1L and have fallen in love with the size and output/runtime.

Ive been carrying my e1l daily for the past month and feel like I'm ok with the UI given the other benefits.


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## bigchelis (May 25, 2015)

recDNA said:


> I'm confused. Why would it only draw 1 amp with an imr 16340? I would have expected almost 3 amps.




the stock driver I found regulated with 3V primaries and 4.2V IMR's. With Factory Driver and just an XML in place of XRE is when I got 1A at tailcap


Same bezel with 2-CR123 body & AW 17670's would do 4A at tailcap in DD


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## pulstar (Sep 3, 2015)

Quick update: I have just replaced stock XR-E led in my 6th gen L1 with XP-G2 R5 5A. Opening the head was quite tiresome (as usual) but i managed to take apart everything without too much hassle and no damage Two rubber strap wrenches really saved the day. After everything was reassembled I ran outside to check the beam. It is great! Throw is virtually the sam as with XR-E, but there's a lot more spill and color is absolutely wonderful. Powered by a RCR123 is a lot brighter - during ceiling bounce test it seemed it's a bit brighter than my Eagtac D25C (272 ANSI lumen). 
Tailcap currents are as they were a couple of years ago: powered by CR123 battery, tailcap current reading was 650mA and with RCR123, tailcap current was 950mA. 

I am very pleased with the results. I just need to install 1mm thick o-ring to full the gap between the upper and lower part of the bezel to secure the best possble focus


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## skyfire (Sep 3, 2015)

I have a xpg2 in my older E1L (same optic as the L1). And love the beam. Wider hotspot with similar throw, and even the spill looks nicer because its brighter around the hotspot and gradually fades towards the edge. The xpg2 really works well with that optic.

I also used an oring to fill the gap. It actually worked out well because i can tighten down the bezel onto the oring, and this causes the bezel to feel secure and not loose without having to use glue.


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## RobertMM (Sep 4, 2015)

Wow, so over 300 lumens with a 4.2 volt cell? Nice.

I understand you used a XPG2 on a board, what diameter board did you use?
Any idea on lumen output in low and high with primaries?


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## RedLED (Sep 4, 2015)

The L1: I waited for the first batch to arrive a couple miles down the road from the Surefire factory at Plaza Cutlery in Costa Mesa, CA with Dan, the owner. An LED Surefire, very exciting times. So, I know I have the first Gen. That we came up with here on CPF. As far as the changes. 

I don't use the original one, but the latest Gen. I love the best, and my favorite to lights collectively to ever come from the Surefire factory. I have a red one, and wish I had bought sets of all the LED colors.

One of the best production lights ever made, no make that the best production light ever made.


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## pulstar (Sep 4, 2015)

Noctigon 16mm diameter board fits without a problem. I simply drilled two holes in to lead the wires to + and - contact and that was it. I will try to compare it to my UB3T to make a rough guesstimation about the output...


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## Search (Sep 4, 2015)

Fuchshp said:


> Good evening
> 
> Is a new, unused L1 5th gen and a new, unused L1 6th gen worth something to a collector when they are still in their original packing?
> 
> ...



As a rule of thumb, any older SF that is in mint condition or NIB will sell here.


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## pulstar (Sep 5, 2015)

RobertMM said:


> Wow, so over 300 lumens with a 4.2 volt cell? Nice.
> 
> I understand you used a XPG2 on a board, what diameter board did you use?
> Any idea on lumen output in low and high with primaries?




Hi Robert,

a few moments ago i compared my freshly modded L1 to UB3T (800 lumen version). Powered by primary battery, low output is around 15 lumens. But high level really suprised me! It is noticeably brighter than 80 lumen level on my UB3T and only slightly dimmer than next, 160 lumen level. But that might be just a difference in beam patterns since modded L1 has brighter spill. It's somwhere in the middle, probably 120-140 lumens on high. Not to bad for a single CR123 light. And given the tailcap current reading(650mA on high), ~2 hour runtime on high is also nothing to be ashamed of! So far I am very pleased with the results. And two-way tactical switch... man, what a pleasure!:twothumbs


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## RobertMM (Sep 5, 2015)

Thank you for your efforts Pulstar! 

Now to find some leather to break open that L1 head and order some Noctigon XPG2s.


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## pulstar (Sep 9, 2015)

Hi guys,

just one question: Which rechargeable batteries fit in your 6th gen. L1 and if they even work? I tried Keepower 16430 and EagTac 16430 and while I am able to just barely squeeze them in, non of them work since the hight of positive contact seems to be to small. I added a blob of solder on it but i think it is starting to oxidize or something like that (solder changed it's color to dark grey). I know that AW 16430 works like a charm, but lately it is really hard to find it here in EU...


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## RobertMM (Sep 9, 2015)

I have two Efest 16340 cells that fit.


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## skyfire (Sep 10, 2015)

I've tried my aw16340 in my gen 6 body and it works, and fits fine. It does not fit in my older 4-flats body though.
I've read of another member frying his L1 driver, possibly because he/she was using a li-ion in it for months.


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## RobertMM (Sep 11, 2015)

I heard about that frm Kestrel once too, but after using mine over a year, with an IMR 16340, sometimes on high til cell depletion, I've grown comfortable with it. Still crossing my fingers though.


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## Kestrel (Sep 12, 2015)

RobertMM said:


> I heard about that frm Kestrel once too, but after using mine over a year, with an IMR 16340, sometimes on high til cell depletion, I've grown comfortable with it. Still crossing my fingers though.


I have been interested in using an IMR123 in my L1's for years but yes there has been at least one (maybe just one?) report of that happening, which was enough for me as I wouldn't want to have to replace even one of my precious L1's.

Definitely appreciate the new correspondence in this thread tho.


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## sgt253 (Sep 12, 2015)

+1. Im nervous about trying it for any real length of time. I experimented once, albeit nervously.
Really enjoying my new "stock" 6th Gen.


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## RobertMM (Sep 20, 2015)

Anyone try one of the new XPL-HI LEDs in the L1? I was thinking if by any chance this LED becomes a good match for the optic, we can achieve considerable brightness gains with just an emitter swap. 
That may be enough of a jump in output for those wishing for it, without going to lithium ion voltage and safer for the driver for those with concerns about the higher input voltage.


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## Kestrel (Sep 21, 2015)

Most interested in any reports of this combo; iirc the regular xpl has the same viewing angle as the perfectly-matched xml - which is my favorite large edc setup/config. But I'm not familiar with any of the more modern emitters.


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## pulstar (Sep 21, 2015)

I highly recommend XP-G2! It's a lot better than XM-L, at least for me. Punchy hotspot, with brighter spill... A lot better than XR-E. I'll try to make some beamshots, but i don't promise anything


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## RobertMM (Sep 21, 2015)

Hi Kestrel. 
Yes, I remembered someone said that the XML is a very good match for the TIR, but has a wide phosphor so the hotspot gets bigger, although brightness increases.
So, XPL-HI equals even more brightness, plus no dome so apparently narrower viewing angle, so more intense hotspot?
Heck this may be what my LX2 and L1 have been waiting for.
Shame I can't find 16mm boards with this LED.
Not hat my shabby modding skills are up to the task though, lol. 

I currently have a Sportac in my C2 with XPL-HI LED claiming 890 lumens, BTW. 22K Lux is awesome for a P60 dropin. I have such high hopes for these LEDs in my favorite SF lights.
I think even the EB1 could use this.


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## BLUE LED (Sep 21, 2015)

XP-L HI will have a smaller and more intense hotspot along with more lumens over XM-L. I haven't tried with my L1 yet, so i can't comment on if it focuses well with the L1.


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## recDNA (Sep 21, 2015)

You are getting me interested in L1's again. I know where I can score one so if anybody tries XP-L HI please let me know how you do! White wall shot would be spectacular especially if you can do stock vs xplhi


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## RobertMM (Sep 21, 2015)

Yup i believe this to be the long awaited emitter update to the stock L1 optic, able to get very decent upgrade on output with a primary yet can be a screamer on high with a 4.2V cell.


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## recDNA (Sep 22, 2015)

Well somebody DO it then! I gots to know!


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## BLUE LED (Sep 22, 2015)

recDNA said:


> Well somebody DO it then! I gots to know!



I might try it tomorrow, but I'm down to my last XP-L HI


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## cland72 (Sep 22, 2015)

I'm still happily using my Gen6 in factory form, but I'm interested on what you guys come up with on the XP-L.


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## RobertMM (Sep 24, 2015)

BLUE LED said:


> I might try it tomorrow, but I'm down to my last XP-L HI



Eagerly waiting for your updates.


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## RobertMM (Sep 29, 2015)

Bump. Nobody tried yet? 
The XPL-HI on 16mm board looks hard to find for now. I may try with a 5K XPG2 for my first mod.


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## BLUE LED (Sep 29, 2015)

I used my last XP-L HI on another light for the latest CPF meet.


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## RobertMM (Sep 29, 2015)

How did it do on that light?


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## BLUE LED (Sep 29, 2015)

RobertMM said:


> How did it do on that light?



I used it in an Eagletac D25C mini twisty. Focusing it into the reflector took forever, but i managed to get it deep enough down to increase the throw and output while retaining a cool white tint. No tints of blue or green, just a pleasing cool white. 

I think i may have blinded a few at the Devils Dyke by shinning it on the map outside. I will buy some more XP-L HI LED's. 

Lets everyone know how you get on if you decide to mod your Surefire L1.


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## RobertMM (Oct 1, 2015)

I have sore fingers but finally got my 6th gen L1 head open after heating on a hot plate for a couple of minutes. 

How do you get the stock LED off? I see a couple of hex screws. Do I unscrew them, and unsolder the leads, and that's it? 
Or does the led board have some more of that wretched adhesive below it?


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## Pöbel (Oct 1, 2015)

no, just the screws and some thermal paste. Very easy once it's open.


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## pulstar (Nov 23, 2015)

Hey guys, can somebody tell me which, if any, two way clip fits to L1 and what would be the best way to obtain it?


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## cland72 (Nov 24, 2015)

pulstar said:


> Hey guys, can somebody tell me which, if any, two way clip fits to L1 and what would be the best way to obtain it?



E1B and EB1 two way clips fit. The EB1 clip will be longer and, in my opinion, more suitable for the L1. You can call Surefire's customer service, but it's doubtful they will ship you one unless you already had it on a light and broke it. But, might be worth a call anyway. Expect to pay a hefty shipping charge though, due to you being overseas from them.

Another option is to post a WTB ad here in the marketplace - perhaps another CPFer could help you out.


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## Dingle1911 (Nov 24, 2015)

I have an SF Backup E1B clip on mine. The original backup not the new EB1. As far as how to get one, I am not sure. My E1B lives on the night stand so I can deal without the clip I moved to the L1.


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## RobertMM (Nov 25, 2015)

I chickened out on the XPL-HI mod and put a 5000K XP-G2, 3A tint in my L1 instead. 
Produces a very nice, round hotspot with decent throw, less than the XRE but definitely brighter.

Bathroom ceiling bounce test:

LX2(stock) 18 lux
L1 with IMR16340 28 lux

Very pleased with the mod. I could have gotten a brighter S3 bin but 6500K is too cool for me.


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## MBentz (Nov 27, 2015)

Just snagged a display model that is completely mint. It's a 5th Gen with the long clip. Would love to be able to run a 16650 in it. Anyone still doing that kind of service?


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## cland72 (Jan 14, 2016)

Used my Gen 6 L1 on a lanyard around my neck this past weekend while camping/hunting. I love it because it has two modes which means I can use low mode for extended runtimes, I can use a red filter or diffuser if needed, it is light enough to wear around your neck so you never lose it, and it can be used as a "tactical" light (with gun) if needed in a pinch. Truly a jack of all trades.


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## warpdrive (Jan 15, 2016)

I have a L1 (I think it's six gen) that I haven't used in ages. What are my options for increasing its brightness?


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## RobertMM (Jan 15, 2016)

I use IMR 16340 in mine. 
Or you can have an emitter swap.


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## Brasso (Jan 16, 2016)

> I have a L1 (I think it's six gen) that I haven't used in ages. What are my options for increasing its brightness?



Not much.

I'll buy it if you want to get rid of it.


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## Viper715 (Jan 16, 2016)

Crack it open and pop a new led in it. Anyone still working on the Surefires like Milky use to? I love my L1 with the Acorn Califon firmware.


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## RobertB (Jan 16, 2016)

I have this LX2 that I absolutely love. Would like to find a mint condition matching L1 at a reasonable price


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## FPSRelic (Jan 16, 2016)

RobertB said:


> I have this LX2 that I absolutely love. Would like to find a mint condition matching L1 at a reasonable price



Best place to look is here on the marketplace. Every L1 I see on the bay of e has them selling with the work "vintage"in it, which means the price is ridiculous.


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## RobertB (Jan 16, 2016)

FPSRelic said:


> Best place to look is here on the marketplace. Every L1 I see on the bay of e has them selling with the work "vintage"in it, which means the price is ridiculous.




Thanks, will keep my eye out for one


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## RobertMM (Jan 17, 2016)

FPSRelic said:


> Best place to look is here on the marketplace. Every L1 I see on the bay of e has them selling with the work "vintage"in it, which means the price is ridiculous.



Spot on. They know of the demand and they are taking advantage. 

Just this week though a 6th gen appeared at a local(PHL) buy and sell site for around 88USD. Thinking of getting it as a backup for my modded one.


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## Kestrel (Jan 17, 2016)

RobertMM said:


> [...] Just this week though a 6th gen appeared at a local(PHL) buy and sell site for around 88USD. Thinking of getting it as a backup for my modded one.


I think $88 is a very fair price and I would be tempted as well. I have two that are modded with a 4500K XM-L (which is the perfect upgrade format IMO), plus one mint one as a backup to them.

I eschew IMR's for mine as I don't want to stress the drivers - so they are secondary compared to my (guilt-free-lumen) LiIon lights, but they always reside in day packs & BOB's for what is IMO the ultimate small backup light.


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## RobertB (Jan 17, 2016)

RobertMM said:


> Spot on. They know of the demand and they are taking advantage.
> 
> Just this week though a 6th gen appeared at a local(PHL) buy and sell site for around 88USD. Thinking of getting it as a backup for my modded one.




If it were mint condition, I'd buy that in a heartbeat


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## teak (Feb 20, 2016)

Now I guess I am mistaken, because I haven't seen my L1 for a longtime, But I was under the impression that the gen6 body was "just a body" meaning no driver like the previous gens had. I also "thought" i seen some pics of an EB1T head on a L1 body. Am I loosing my mind? I also thought I seen Malkoff Scout heads on gen6 bodies as well? Someone please set my mind straight if I am all off.. lol!


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## sgt253 (Feb 20, 2016)

The gen 6 has the driver in the body, the head is"dumb".


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## Bogie (Feb 20, 2016)

All L1's have the driver in the body with dumb heads


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## teak (Feb 20, 2016)

Thanks for clarifying that. I could have sworn my gen 6 cree was just a tube, but obviously not..


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## m4a1usr (Feb 20, 2016)

teak said:


> Now I guess I am mistaken, because I haven't seen my L1 for a longtime, But I was under the impression that the gen6 body was "just a body" meaning no driver like the previous gens had. I also "thought" i seen some pics of an EB1T head on a L1 body. Am I loosing my mind? I also thought I seen Malkoff Scout heads on gen6 bodies as well? Someone please set my mind straight if I am all off.. lol!



Your not losing your mind. Well not over the EB1T head being mounted. I think I remember that one too. As far as using an L1 body sans the driver that's not to hard to do. I took one of my A2's and made it a franken A2 by removing the in body driver and using a short spacer to extend the 16670 battery inside. Now its got E2C and a P60 bezel with a custom single mode LED. And with the 2 stage TC its got that just right feel. If you know what I mean!


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## teak (Feb 28, 2016)

Yes, I had a 5th gen L1 that I removed the driver used a 16670 and used a VME head with a M60. After I did it I wished I hadn't..lol. I personally thought the old "22 lumen" high was pretty useful and ran forever on a battery..So I sold it off and told myself I will never cut on any generation of L1's..Now I have 2 Gen 6's. One I carry often and the other just sits. The 6th gens were a tad brighter then my 110 lumen E1B's, And since the 2 stage tailcap is my favorite I prefer it over anything else. I am on the hunt for a red L1. I let a friend borrow mine when we were hunting and he lost the damn thing, never to be found again.


m4a1usr said:


> Your not losing your mind. Well not over the EB1T head being mounted. I think I remember that one too. As far as using an L1 body sans the driver that's not to hard to do. I took one of my A2's and made it a franken A2 by removing the in body driver and using a short spacer to extend the 16670 battery inside. Now its got E2C and a P60 bezel with a custom single mode LED. And with the 2 stage TC its got that just right feel. If you know what I mean!


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## Dingle1911 (Feb 29, 2016)

Could someone please elaborate on removing the drive. Are you able to re-install or is this a permanent change?


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## Kestrel (Feb 29, 2016)

Dingle1911 said:


> Could someone please elaborate on removing the drive. Are you able to re-install or is this a permanent change?


It's difficult but can be a reversible change. Check my older threads for my "Surefire L2 / MCE" build; I show details of extracting the driver module from the L2 body which is the same operation. However, if the light is bored/etc, the driver module loses a reference shelf which it sets up against; my pictures show this pretty well. Hope this helps,


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