# One 11000 lumen led and narrow beam lens



## estoydpaso (Jan 10, 2008)

Anybody knows which lens do I have to use with this led to have a 5º/10º beam. (and where to buy it)











I saw in other threads, that some people thinks it is not the best choice, but it is the brightest one (under 100$) that I'd found, so... I bought it, and now I need a narrow lens.

Anyway, if there is no choice, ...

Could anyone tell me a good option over 1000 lumen, under 10º, 1A and 15V aprox?

[still waiting for an answer from the seller :-( ]


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## VidPro (Jan 10, 2008)

i would love to see somone stuff that behind a "Aspheric" type of lens, it would , well be quite amasing  
i would say a fresnel too, but with its heat output, it would want to be a glass fresnel.

you need to tell what the diameter of your intended host item, or how big you want the lens, i have not seen a lens made specifically FOR that item, although i have seen it tossed behind a reflector, and it worked ok.


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## monkeyboy (Jan 10, 2008)

That LED has a HUGE die size so collimating this into 5 - 10º would require an *enormous* lens or reflector. It's just not feasible.

The osram ostar 6 chip has over 1000 lumen output with a much smaller die size. This will still need quite a large lens for a tight beam. Look for the new 1000lm version not the old 420lm one. If has quite a high Vf though - around 22V.


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## Oznog (Jan 10, 2008)

How would you cool that monster?

The Luxeon Rebel-100's could be mounted on a 3-star with a triple lens. 300 lumens @ 3W. Is specified for driving at twice that current too, although cooling on the 3-star might be a problem.


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## monkeyboy (Jan 10, 2008)

Mounting it to a heatsink is all that is needed so long as the heatsink is sufficiently large


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## Oznog (Jan 10, 2008)

monkeyboy said:


> Mounting it to a heatsink is all that is needed so long as the heatsink is sufficiently large



"Large" being the key word. The die must remain cool or it will strongly reduce the output and reduce the lifespan of the device, cooler than transistors and CPUs are normally allowed to operate at. Cooling 20W down to a reasonable die temp is a HUGE heatsink! Surely forced air cooling is going to be used?


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## cytoe (Jan 10, 2008)

Here's my Ostar aspheric attempt: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/184326


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## monkeyboy (Jan 10, 2008)

It doesn't really need to be that huge and a cooling fan is not necessary. For example cmaccel has built the ostar into m*glite (with internal heatsink) without any reported problems. Even driven at full whack, I reckon this setup should have decent lumen maintenance. If you're thinking of building a portable flashlight: 1) It probably won't be run for that long anyway and 2) holding the light will act as a heatsink. If it's for fixed lighting, then you will need a better heatsink - I think a cpu heatsink will suffice. The important thing is that the LED is well bonded to the heatsink using thermal epoxy 

These power LEDs typically have a maximum allowable die temperature of around 150C whereas a CPU is around 70C.


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## jtr1962 (Jan 10, 2008)

Looking at the typical specs this LED gives 1050 lumens at I=900 mA and Vf=15.5V. That's an input power of 14 watts, and an efficiency of 75 lm/W. Since ~20% of the input power comes out as light, you only have to worry about getting rid of 11 watts of heat. A passive heat sink about 4" square should be up to it. A fan-cooled heat sink 2" square could easily handle this. 11 watts doesn't represent an intractable cooling problem. I've used Pentium IV heatsinks (70x80mm) to cool thermoelectrics dissipating in excess of 100 watts. At most the hot side gets 20°C above ambient. Such a heat sink used here would keep the LED practically at room temperature. Indeed, you could probably put as many as would physically fit on such a heat sink to make a "master blaster". :devil:

I love the *DON'T LOOK DIRECTLY!!! *warning in the product description.


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## estoydpaso (Jan 11, 2008)

If the ostar is the best option, which optical will fit on it and give a narrow beam? who sells it?

I think that the cytoe's project looks (and shines) great ...and big compared with the idea I have in my mind.
I want a single led for aesthetic reason. I would like a "like a laser beam", collimated light in one torch no bigger than a C-cell.

I'm sure it is possible under 100$ but still don't know how... or when.

I don't care about heating, I think that a full aluminium body is enough underwater, and overwater the Dive Light Genie will reduce the power to 25%, 50% or 75%.

I'm sure I forgot something interesting (and fatal) in all of this.


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## VidPro (Jan 11, 2008)

estoydpaso you should be able to do the PWM dimming with some of the taskled drivers also. because some of them handle large voltages of input and output. http://www.taskled.com/compare.html
BECAUSE the max current of the 20W device is still only 1000ma , course any reed switching or waterprooof stuff would be in addition.

a good reason for me suggesting things like an Nflex or Maxflex, is you can reset the total current that it outputs in software, not just dimm it, that way you can change the drive current, and therfore the heat handling capacity of the light you make. EX: say you run at 1000ma , and that just is to high, most of these drivers can be reconfigured without dissasembling something.


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## haloweenhamster (Jan 12, 2008)

Ive bought simular leds
20W Cool-white LED with Star 1000LM from Taiwan Edison
(1) Average 1000LM
(2) Input current: 1.1A
(3) Input voltage: 18.5V
LED driver specification,
(1) Input Voltage: AC/DC8-16V
(2) Output Current: 1A
from ebay



ariel_usa

and got 10-15 degree lens for 5W, 10W and 20W LEDs
this lens can be used for the 5W 200lm LED and the 10W 400lm LED and the 20W 700lm LED
from ebay



nwoelders
my plan is to make some narrow beam offroading spotlights for my car and I thought the lens that I bought sounded like what estoydpaso was after. the luminous flux rating is a bit low but I think it should work
the items should arrive in the next couple of days so ill keep you posted on how good/bad they are.


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## estoydpaso (Jan 12, 2008)

I learn and I think I don't have to be in the wrong way when I read all of you.

I already have purchased and received that 10º-15º lens from ledsee or nwoelders and





looks great, but has to be tested with the 20W led that nwoelders recomend






or the led that halloweenhamster says from ariel_usa 20W 1000lm 38$ 




(even the 50W 3500lm 150$ ) 








because the led that I bought,




is bigger than the lens hole.


I tested the lens with one led that I have 1.25w luxeon looking (from a frogman led & lenser that I upgraded with 5W 220lm from jeled h.k.), and... it gives a dot in the wall 3 metres away.
But the led has to be putted inside the lens, and the led that I want is really bigger than the hole.

I am thinking about cutting a 2mm ring from the lower part of the lens, to try to put the big led close to the focus point,... but I don't know what will happen.

Both, jeled and ariel_usa, told me that there is no narrow beam lens for their led's. So I will wait till halloweenhamster give us his impressions with ledsee before I spend more money.


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## estoydpaso (Jan 12, 2008)

VidPro said:


> estoydpaso you should be able to do the PWM dimming with some of the taskled drivers also. because some of them handle large voltages of input and output. http://www.taskled.com/compare.html
> BECAUSE the max current of the 20W device is still only 1000ma , course any reed switching or waterprooof stuff would be in addition.
> 
> a good reason for me suggesting things like an Nflex or Maxflex, is you can reset the total current that it outputs in software, not just dimm it, that way you can change the drive current, and therfore the heat handling capacity of the light you make. EX: say you run at 1000ma , and that just is to high, most of these drivers can be reconfigured without dissasembling something.



Vidpro, I have purchased (and waiting for the postman) the Dive Light Genie



and I think it is close to the drivers you say, or better, or not... It is a great pleasure to deal with Mathew, who recommends you the best option, and who will program the driver to your desired voltage, amperes, led, halogen, or HID, toggle switch or piezo switch. Yes a piezo switch



with no moving parts IP68 certified purchased at Farnell is my choice,...

every time you push the piezo switch, the power that feeds the light changes 0%->25%->50%->75%->0%... (I recommend to watch the video)

and maybe next time I will learn to programme my next drive. But anyway your recommendations have been bookmarked and will studied. (too much to learn):twothumbs


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## VidPro (Jan 14, 2008)

here are some (very rough) tests on the DX 20W
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/186184


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## Phaethon (Jan 21, 2008)

estoydpaso said:


> Both, jeled and ariel_usa, told me that there is no narrow beam lens for their led's. So I will wait till halloweenhamster give us his impressions with ledsee before I spend more money.


 
You might want to check out my project on the same components, however, the results were not encouraging though......
:tinfoil:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/183496


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