# **NEW** Nitecore EA4 Pioneer (4*AA, 860lm)



## gopajti

New Nitecore flashlight coming soon

*Nitecore EA4 Pioneer
*
LED: Cree XM-L U2
Battery: 4*AA
Output/modes: 65lm (22h), 135lm (11h), 300lm (4h30m), 550lm (2h), 860lm (1h45m)
Peak Beam Intensity: 20000cd (max. 283m)
IPX8
117mm (length), 40mm (diameter)
weight: 159g (without batteries)


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## martinaee

Must... have..... pictures.... :green:



(Edit: ah nice... you got some to go with it)


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## Bwolcott

omg 860 lumens on 4 AA beatteries with 20,000 cd! I must have it!


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## jorn

65lm lo is too bright for my taste. 
No blinky modes? Thats great


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## carl

That's the light that was in the background of a previous video of the TM15. Looks nice but what's with the star-shaped tailcap?


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## gsteve

good grief !!! what next !!
need more pix


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## 276

I thought that one was supposed to be the Nitecore MT4A Mignon :thinking:


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## 276

Found one picture


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## sbbsga

Is this the video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWQRfWZio58


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## Bwolcott

I like it! if reasonably priced I am getting it for sure


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## InquisitiveInquirer

Oh my... Looks like i'm going to buying another 4AA light... I just like the 4xAA configuration. I bought the Jetbeam PA40 (468 lumens), Fenix LD41 (520 lumens), skipped the sunwayman M40a (645 lumens), but must get this new EA4 at its nice 860 lumens. It's the same width (headwise) as fenix ld41 at 40mm, but is only 117mm in length, which, compared to the fenix ld41 at 175mm, is super short! Nice nice nice. I wonder if this would outthrow the M40a?


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## don.gwapo

With this light, forget the Zebralight Q50! 

Hope they will release it before Christmas.


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## duro

Come on Nitecore! --Get some low modes built into those drivers. Pff.


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## InquisitiveInquirer

duro said:


> Come on Nitecore! --Get some low modes built into those drivers. Pff.



Totally agree. I'd love to have a true low mode too, but since the light on the pictured ad above markets it as a compact searchlight, i guess that's why they don't put a low mode. I've always got a small light AAA on me anyways so i don't mind it... that much. 

Digressing a bit, i totall forgot about the Q50. Any word on that ? Release kept on pushing back and back and back till i forgot about it.


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## Blackbeard

carl said:


> That's the light that was in the background of a previous video of the TM15. Looks nice but what's with the star-shaped tailcap?



Looks like a tripod mount like ez123 has


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## Sh3ngLong

I don't have any AA flashlights, but I think that will change very soon!


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## NickBose

For a while I was excited about the Zebralight Q50 then I forgot about it. Now looking back and look at the EA4 now I think I'll pass the Q50 in a blink and get the EA4. :thumbsup:
However I wish the EA4 UI would be as good as the Zebralights


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## tam17

How long before thermal stepdown? This is relatively small light.

Cheers


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## Kokopelli

UI really matters. But quite an optimistic value that throw number is. Even similarly headed MH25 was rated at 14000 cd. How can this AA light go over that?


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## Bwolcott

Kokopelli said:


> UI really matters. But quite an optimistic value that throw number is. Even similarly headed MH25 was rated at 14000 cd. How can this AA light go over that?



if the led is deeper it could easily hit 20,000 cd


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## Kokopelli

Of course it can, but I still can't see why Nitecore would choose a throwier reflector in this light while they chose a shallower reflector on a light they called the "Night Blade". 

I'm waiting for a new thrower in Explorer series, then. Like EC25 and EC40.


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## kreisl

_Oh look there's a new flashlight - I like it already because it's new!

_( sorry, couldnt resist. )


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## xed888

From the German forums


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## oKtosiTe

xed888 said:


> From the German forums


Seems to require a login...


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## xed888

oKtosiTe said:


> Seems to require a login...



Forums or the light?


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## NickBose

tam17 said:


> How long before thermal stepdown? This is relatively small light.
> 
> Cheers



Hope there's no stepdown as the Q50 was supposed to be so (no step down). Anyway we're talking about 2 non existent lights here.
Another thing I'd love to have is the red SMD as locator and nightlight on other EA lights


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## DavidMB

This one looks interesting. I like that is an AA light, and the nitecore brand.


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## GordoJones88

Delicious!


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## gopajti

pls del


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## sbbsga

I found the manual. http://www.nitecore.com/UploadFile/Files/download/1-1_EA4_UM_EN.pdf


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## NickBose

Hmm only 3 minutes of 860 lumen then stepping down to 550 lumen - less than the Sunwayman M40A's constant high of 645 lumens (or 600 lumens old version)
You can always turn off and on again, but still ...


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## Kokopelli

Two position switch sounds a bit complicated to use. I hope it is more intuitive than it sounds.


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## sbbsga

Kokopelli said:


> Two position switch sounds a bit complicated to use. I hope it is more intuitive than it sounds.



It's pretty much like the switches on TM11 and TM15.


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## SuLyMaN

don.gwapo said:


> With this light, forget the Zebralight Q50!
> 
> Hope they will release it before Christmas.



This And then you will hear that zebralight will do 280x4 lumens on 4aa. Lol

Sent from my GT-S5660 using Tapatalk 2


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## markr6

I was close to getting an LD41, but I WANT THIS...NOW!


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## oKtosiTe

Kokopelli said:


> Two position switch sounds a bit complicated to use. I hope it is more intuitive than it sounds.


As complicated as snapping a picture with a point and shoot camera. On my TM11 soft press is for cycling low modes, hard press is for high. It's easy to feel the difference, and I very rarely miss.


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## troelskc

Are 4xAA lights wired with bateries in series or 2x in series + 2x in parallel? Buck or boos-driver?


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## Kokopelli

oKtosiTe said:


> As complicated as snapping a picture with a point and shoot camera. On my TM11 soft press is for cycling low modes, hard press is for high. It's easy to feel the difference, and I very rarely miss.



If you say so, I guess I can handle it right.


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## NickBose

SuLyMaN said:


> This And then you will hear that zebralight will do 280x4 lumens on 4aa. Lol



Exactly the point. But unfortunately they're too busy selling other lights like hot cakes and have no time to make the Q50.


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## SuLyMaN

NickBose said:


> Exactly the point. But unfortunately they're too busy selling other lights like hot cakes and have no time to make the Q50.



Unfortunately it is not their fault if manufacturers cannot keep up with their insane spec'ed lights. You can't fault them for making great stuffs which are quite unique on the market. They are there in the first instance to maximize their profits. 

Sent from my GT-S5660 using Tapatalk 2


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## Miracle

WHEN WILL THIS LIGHT SHIP?????????????????

>:#


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## InquisitiveInquirer

I wonder how much it will cost?


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## markr6

It looks like $100 after converting from some European sites. I hope that's right, or even less. I wouldn't want to go much higher.


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## PhatPhil

Neutral T6 3C option would be good


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## sbbsga

It's here! http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=72 

Available in cool and neutral white.


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## Bwolcott

sbbsga said:


> It's here! http://www.nitecore.com/productDetail.aspx?id=72
> 
> Available in cool and neutral white.





nice! I love the compact size


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## Kokopelli

$100 would be a bit high for this lights audience. $65 would be more appropriate for my kind of buyer


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## sbbsga

Kokopelli said:


> $100 would be a bit high for this lights audience. $65 would be more appropriate for my kind of buyer



Yes, hopefully it's no more than MT40.


Sent using Tapatalk HD.


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## moshow9

The beam profile looks nice! I'm thinking of picking one up in neutral when they reach the dealers.


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## InquisitiveInquirer

I wonder how difficult it would be to replace the button once the rubber is worn out? Seeing from the pictures and since it's one solid "unibody" piece, i assume it could be quite difficult?


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## pblanch

I have getting rather annoyed with ZL lately with the vapor lights that just have people in a holding pattern on all other lights until they are released. The push back dates are getting to be the rule, not the exception. May have to give this one a go as I do like the 4AA format. It doesn't say anything about the potential use of 2AA in an emergency as I find that to be a very useful feature.


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## sbbsga

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> I wonder how difficult it would be to replace the button once the rubber is worn out? Seeing from the pictures and since it's one solid "unibody" piece, i assume it could be quite difficult?



Maybe it is a TM series switch under it Hopefully it is tougher than it appears.




pblanch said:


> It doesn't say anything about the potential use of 2AA in an emergency as I find that to be a very useful feature.



Q50 can do that? Cool. Too bad it's been delayed for so long.


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## stp

Could somebody point me in a direction where I could read more about interface? I just want to understand how it works and there is nothing about it on Nitecore slides. Can it move up or down from selected mode or do I need to go trough all?


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## sbbsga

stp said:


> Could somebody point me in a direction where I could read more about interface? I just want to understand how it works and there is nothing about it on Nitecore slides. Can it move up or down from selected mode or do I need to go trough all?



I posted its manual in the first page. 


Sent using Tapatalk HD.


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## Kokopelli

this light will be interesting indeed. TK41 is a thrower with 8xAA's. A huge flashlight for AA batteries. S65 gives a good all around beam, still big. S35 looks tiny but lacks in lumens output. So EA4, if it is as throwy as it is said, has a good size and light output. 

I bought myself 8xAA Eneloops today already


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## stp

sbbsga said:


> I posted its manual in the first page.
> 
> 
> Sent using Tapatalk HD.



Thanks very much, for some reason I didn't spot your post.


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## awyeah

Looks like it doesn't use a battery caddy - you just put the batteries right into the body. I really like that. I always worry that I'm going to break the caddy on my TK41.


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## Yourfun2

I got my eneloops at Costco. Now all I need is that light. Was hoping for batts in parallel. Pic shows them in series. Still looks like a great light. Nitecore is working out on their reflectors.


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## Luminater

Yourfun2 said:


> I got my eneloops at Costco. Now all I need is that light. Hoping it runs batts in parallel. Would make a gret emergency light.



100% It runs batts in series.


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## csshih

Miracle said:


> WHEN WILL THIS LIGHT SHIP?????????????????
> 
> >:#



should probably be hitting dealers this week to early next week.

Craig


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## Yourfun2

El-top has cool white for $67.99,


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## markr6

For sale now! $67.99! Am I allowed to post links? (too many different forums/rules to keep track of)Edit: I may wait for reviews....decisions, decisions


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## ZRXBILL

One dealer has it up for preorder in the dealer section.


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## Bwolcott

69.99 at another dealer, good price imo


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## SuLyMaN

I hope to see reviews soon guys. Hehe 

Sent from my GT-S5660 using Tapatalk 2


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## GeoBruin

That sure looks a lot like a P60 compatible head. Just sayin...


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## markr6

It's done...now the waiting!! Sorry ZL Q50, you snooze you lose.


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## Bwolcott

GeoBruin said:


> That sure looks a lot like a P60 compatible head. Just sayin...



The reflector is larger then the p60 reflectors


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## InquisitiveInquirer

pblanch said:


> It doesn't say anything about the potential use of 2AA in an emergency as I find that to be a very useful feature.



While i have no idea if it can or not, i doubt it can while maintaining those 860 lumens. The TK41, whic has a max of also 860 lumens, from what i understand, can run on 4AA (half of the 8AA required) in an emergency. This nitecore EA4 is already running just 4AA. Hard to think that it can get 860 lumens off of just 2AA. Maybe it can still run with 2AA, but not with the the turbo mode of 860? Anyone with more technical & electrical knowledge can chime in on my guess?


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## Patriot

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Maybe it can still run with 2AA, but not with the the turbo mode of 860? Anyone with more technical & electrical knowledge can chime in on my guess?




Looking at the various pictures of the tailcap contacts and body, I don't know how it would work on two batteries. It appears to be a distinctly different electrical arrangement from the TM11 & TM15. My guess it that it would need a full compliment of cells to run.


Looks like it's shipping in 1-2 weeks!


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## Lucky Duck

Interesting that the Micro(?) setting is 65 lumens! :shrug:


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## markr6

violatorjf said:


> Just ordered one from a vendor, used CPF2012 coupon code, total came to $66.39 after discount. Says I should get it Dec 3, not sure though b/c it says ships within 1-2wks. Either way, WOOHOO!


Sounds good, mine said the same thing. I can wait that long...just barely!!I agree with everyone that 65 lumens is still a lot on low, but I didn't buy this bulky massive thing for sneaking around in the dark, that's what my H51, H502, LD12, LD22, Photon II, etc etc etc is for!


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## violatorjf

Lucky Duck said:


> Interesting that the Micro(?) setting is 65 lumens! :shrug:



I agree, but I normally carry my Streamlight Stylus Pro w/ me anyways for the small stuff, so 65 lumens will do. (I'm more intrested in the 800+ :naughty: )

EDIT: Eh, just got an e-mail from the vendor, says they're on backorder. Expected in stock on Dec 5. Guess I can wait...


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## InquisitiveInquirer

I'm waiting with bated breath for the reviews & pics on this one. Hope those of you have already ordered would be kind enough to post feedback & maybe even beamshots once you get your EA4.


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## Tybo22

Don't have a aa light yet. This may be my first. I was curious if any knew what the output would be on alkaline batteries. Good to know in case of power failures. Im guessing it would be significantly lower lumens as well as run times. Any help or guesses would be appreciated.


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## awyeah

Tybo22 said:


> Don't have a aa light yet. This may be my first. I was curious if any knew what the output would be on alkaline batteries. Good to know in case of power failures. Im guessing it would be significantly lower lumens as well as run times. Any help or guesses would be appreciated.



For emergencies, I keep a few packs of ultimate lithiums around. They last longer than alkaline, can handle a higher load, and don't leak (at least, I have never heard of them leaking).


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## LEDmodMan

I've been waiting for this light for a LONG time! :sick2:

I just put in an order for three of these bad boys. oo: Two of them will make excellent Christmas gifts (and so will the third; to MYSELF!!! ). 

The dealer mentioned above said they expect their order of 100 units late next week. As of my order, there are about 40 left for pre-order. Get them while you can!


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## Jerrycobra

pretty tempting light, i just dunno if alkaline can keep up with the power demand to create the output, but i am sure lithium can do the job. Its crazy how in just one year or so my bc40 is out powered by a little light powered by regular old AA batteries, and only 4 of them too


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## stp

Jerrycobra said:


> pretty tempting light, i just dunno if alkaline can keep up with the power demand to create the output, but i am sure lithium can do the job. Its crazy how in just one year or so my bc40 is out powered by a little light powered by regular old AA batteries, and only 4 of them too



Why waste money and risk damage to the light using alkalines? Or spend quite a lot on lithiums when there is perfect power source - LSD NiMhs...


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## Tybo22

awyeah said:


> For emergencies, I keep a few packs of ultimate lithiums around. They last longer than alkaline, can handle a higher load, and don't leak (at least, I have never heard of them leaking).



Thanks for your suggestion. I thought I read there was a safety concern with lithium primaries...is that still the case???


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## Bwolcott

Tybo22 said:


> Thanks for your suggestion. I thought I read there was a safety concern with lithium primaries...is that still the case???





no concern


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## violatorjf

I'm planning on using good ole' eneloops when mine arrives.


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## biglights

violatorjf said:


> I'm planning on using good ole' eneloops when mine arrives.



That would be a great choice :thumbsup:


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## awyeah

Tybo22 said:


> Thanks for your suggestion. I thought I read there was a safety concern with lithium primaries...is that still the case???



You're thinking of CR123A lithium primaries. Those are a different chemistry. 

Obviously there is risk with any battery, but - and please check me on this - I think AA and AAA-sized lithiums are fine.


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## Bwolcott

awyeah said:


> You're thinking of CR123A lithium primaries. Those are a different chemistry.
> 
> Obviously there is risk with any battery, but - and please check me on this - I think AA and AAA-sized lithiums are fine.



Cr123 lithium primaries are fine as well, as long *** you buy quality batteries all this battery fear is way exaggerated


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## pblanch

I would still exercise a little caution with any battery. I would never buy a pack of 20 lithium batteries for $5 off ebay. Chances are they are not going to be legit.


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## Interhead

One Nitecore EA4 Pioneer Compact LED Search Flashlight - 860 Lumens 
Comming in the mail soon.:twothumbs 
Is there any tests yet...


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## sbbsga

Interhead said:


> One Nitecore EA4 Pioneer Compact LED Search Flashlight - 860 Lumens
> Comming in the mail soon.:twothumbs
> Is there any tests yet...



Not yet. We are eagerly waiting for a review too and :welcome:


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## InquisitiveInquirer

Well... I had been planning on waiting on some reviews and pictures of the EA4 before pulling the trigger, but.... but.... I caved. I scored one for $56 and now it's all about the waiting game. :naughty:


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## ericb445

I caved in as well.....It will be here next Wednesday, Cant wait.


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## GordoJones88

Wow. Another light I have to have.


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## nagyzoltan82

Where could i found a night test?


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## markr6

Ordered from bettery junction 11/27 - not shipped yet.


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## InquisitiveInquirer

First off, no i have not received mines yet, but i did find some pictures that i haven't seen yet and thought you guys would like to see. Reflector doesn't look that deep.... hmmm... i wonder if the specs for throw were a little ambitious? We'll see when we all receive it. Sheath is nothing to rave about.

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/866/nitecoreea41.jpg

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1793/nitecoreea42.jpg


Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm


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## Kokopelli

I also wonder how a light this small will be throwing that far. Anyway, I ordered mine from an EBay seller and be shipped it in a day. I hope to be able to get it in my hands in two weeks time.

Oh and one more thing, Fenix's TK22 throws up to around 230m. Still I don't believe the written specs but would like to see a comparison between Nitecore EA4, MH25 and Fenix TK22 through outdoor shots.


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## Bwolcott

Kokopelli said:


> I also wonder how a light this small will be throwing that far. Anyway, I ordered mine from an EBay seller and be shipped it in a day. I hope to be able to get it in my hands in two weeks time.
> 
> Oh and one more thing, Fenix's TK22 throws up to around 230m. Still I don't believe the written specs but would like to see a comparison between Nitecore EA4, MH25 and Fenix TK22 through outdoor shots.




let us know how it is when you get it!


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## violatorjf

Thanks for the new pics II, I'm still anxiously awaiting its arrival...

Mark, I'm in the same boat, ordered mine a day after you did.


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## sbbsga

EA4 in action.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sfw3dm-Bfcg


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## Badbeams3

This light would have been of real interest to me if they had used a U3...run at around 1000 lumen, had it run off 4 X 14500 and had a built in charging system. Mini Tiny Monster. Still interesting, but...


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## Patriot

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> First off, no i have not received mines yet, but i did find some pictures that i haven't seen yet and thought you guys would like to see. Reflector doesn't look that deep.... hmmm... i wonder if the specs for throw were a little ambitious?




I don't think the reflector depth can be determined with any precision from that type of short depth of field picture. Looking at the length of the head and its ratio as compared to the body, it certainly doesn't look shallow! The video above again seems to show a fairly deep reflector. Nitecore doesn't have a history of exaggerating output or throw figures, so we should be in good shape. 

I'm waiting on one from Battery Junction.


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## ZRXBILL

I worry about those 2 negative springs on the tail cap catching on the batteries as as it's screwed on repeatedly.


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## biglights

markr6 said:


> Ordered from bettery junction 11/27 - not shipped yet.



Mine will be here tomorrow. Did not order from b.j. though. I cant wait for this little beast to get here!


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## Patriot

Badbeams3 said:


> This light would have been of real interest to me if they had used a U3...run at around 1000 lumen, had it run off 4 X 14500 and had a built in charging system. Mini Tiny Monster. Still interesting, but...



The main advantage of 14500's would be higher voltage and potentially more output. However, despite not running on 14500's the light still produces slightly more output per XM-L than either the TM11 or TM15. It's actually ideal because we can use less expensive cells with greater capacity. There's no advantage to 14500's if the light is optimized for the voltage provided by NiMh. Even if you run them 2S2P it's only1500mah. Not installing a charging circuit and socket reduces the overall size, which it seems was a target goal. Look how much longer all lights are with on board charging. With regards to a U3, sure who wouldn't take it, but at the same time, the TM's aren't using them, yet we still praise them both. The idea that a 140 lumen difference would transform this light from an interest to a "real interest" seems like splitting hairs but we all have an opinion on what's cool.


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## biglights

Yep, and you would not be able to tell the difference in those 140 lumens. Great point Patriot!! This little guy looks like a home run.


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## Badbeams3

Well, my thoughts on the 14500`s would be that they would be run in parallel, easier to change batts in the dark...also not so sure about the capacity being lower...need to keep in mind it`s a higher voltage batt...so not sure one can simply look at/compare ma ratings that way. 

"The main advantage of lithium batteries is their energy capacity. UltraFire 14500 is rated @ 900mah (although capacity is likely over rated). 900mah x 3.6v = 3.2Watt hours. While eneloops are 1.2v x 2000mah = 2.4 Watt hours".

"The nice thing about 14500's is they are 3.6v the operating voltage of most LED's. So you could have a smaller flashlight operate off 1x14500 rather than the 3xAA's needed to achieve the 3.6v..."

And I believe cold weather performance would be better too...important for a true search and rescue light. And I`m old school, brighter better...the old CPF motto...


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## GordoJones88

If it is to work with both 4x 1.2v Nimh and 4x 4.2v Li-Ion, 
the circuit would have to compromise one way or the other. 
14500's are good for single cell Li-Ion battery use.
Ima get those XX Eneloops 2500mAh for this thing. 

The reflector looks specially optimized, and beautiful.


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## violatorjf

Gordo, think you could compare runtimes with the 2000mah vs. the XX 2500mah eneloops once you get them? If it's significant I may get them as well, but considering the price of the XX's and the fact that I have a bunch of regular ones at the house, it would have to be worth the $34+ price tag to get 8 of them. I would appreciate it if possible. Thanks.


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## GordoJones88

violatorjf said:


> Gordo, think you could compare runtimes with the 2000mah vs. the XX 2500mah eneloops once you get them?



Okay, but I don't have regular Eneloops. 
I do have lots of Energizer 2000mAh batteries.
However, for the EA4, Nitecore states:

"Flashlight testing standards ANSI/NEMA FL1 using 4 x 1.2V *2400mAh* AA batteries."

So it's likely their stated results will be close to Eneloop XX 2500mAh AA batteries.


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## sbbsga

Gloved operation. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dF7QdT9iC2A


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## biglights

This one looks very nice!


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## violatorjf

GordoJones88 said:


> Okay, but I don't have regular Eneloops.
> I do have lots of Energizer 2000mAh batteries.
> However, for the EA4, Nitecore states:
> 
> "Flashlight testing standards ANSI/NEMA FL1 using 4 x 1.2V *2400mAh* AA batteries."
> 
> So it's likely their stated results will be close to Eneloop XX 2500mAh AA batteries.



Oh yeah, good point. Guess I'll just wait and see how my 2000mah's do.


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## ericb445

Just got back from my local gun show. And look what I got..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/ericb445/IMG_0021.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/ericb445/IMG_0022.jpg


Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm


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## Luminater

Thai forum review.


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## Rikr

Eric,
So what's your thoughts on your new light? I have been looking at it for awhile now and just don't no... I am into throwers but I do like them all.. Thanks


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## ericb445

Rikr said:


> Eric,
> So what's your thoughts on your new light? I have been looking at it for awhile now and just don't no... I am into throwers but I do like them all.. Thanks




I have been messing with it all day. Its nice. I like the UI and it seems to be pretty throwy. I can't wait for it to get dark out. Fit Finish is nice just like all nitecores I have. The button flashing blue is nice and could be a little brighter but at night might be enough.


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## InquisitiveInquirer

sbbsga said:


> Gloved operation.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dF7QdT9iC2A



I can't read german or understand it, but in the description box of this video, i read the numbers 25,000 lux... FOR REAL?? ooooooooo.......


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## Swedpat

When I see this light is available in neutral white option I am really interested. Just want to read a review and see runtime graph for the different modes.


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## PhatPhil

Anyone know when the NW option will be in stock?

So far I've only seen the CW U2 option for sale


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## sbbsga

Outdoor beamshots.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ritH-NDFf-s


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## pinhead

sbbsga said:


> Outdoor beamshots.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ritH-NDFf-s



And here is a review in German language about the NiteCore EA4: http://www.helle-taschenlampen.de/threads/review-nitecore-ea4-pioneer-860-ansi-lumen-max.194/

If you want to read it in English, you might want to use Google Translator: http://translate.google.com/transla...-nitecore-ea4-pioneer-860-ansi-lumen-max.194/


----------



## Rikr

That video looks great!! This light really does a good job!!


----------



## sbbsga

pinhead said:


> And here is a review in German language about the NiteCore EA4: http://www.helle-taschenlampen.de/threads/review-nitecore-ea4-pioneer-860-ansi-lumen-max.194/
> 
> If you want to read it in English, you might want to use Google Translator: http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.helle-taschenlampen.de%2Fthreads%2Freview-nitecore-ea4-pioneer-860-ansi-lumen-max.194%2F



Thank you very much.


----------



## violatorjf

sbbsga said:


> Outdoor beamshots.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ritH-NDFf-s



That is a nice video but the snow probably reflects the light pretty well. Nonetheless, obviously very bright and powerful. Still waiting patiently...


----------



## Patriot

Badbeams3 said:


> "The main advantage of lithium batteries is their energy capacity. UltraFire 14500 is rated @ 900mah (although capacity is likely over rated). 900mah x 3.6v = 3.2Watt hours. While eneloops are 1.2v x 2000mah = 2.4 Watt hours".



Except that the high quality AW & Redilast brand batteries are still only 750mah at .5A That makes the real number 750mah x 3.6v = 2.7 Watt hours, compared to 2500mah x 1.2v = 3.0 Watt hours. Obviously it's important to compare the best available cells in their respective classes. 

I'll give you the cold weather advantage but it would have to be pretty darn cold to be substantive. I think we've got members here using Eneloops at Zero Degrees F. I'm in AZ and will never see that.


----------



## papageorgio

I've been holding out for the zebralight q50 or s5310, but looks like my money might need to go elsewhere! They emailed me and said the s5310 was going to be released after the s6330, but who knows when that will be! Do you soft-press to change modes on the EA4? Or is it an electronic clicky like a ZL?


----------



## sbbsga

papageorgio said:


> Do you soft-press to change modes on the EA4? Or is it an electronic clicky like a ZL?



The manual. 

http://www.nitecore.com/UploadFile/Files/download/1-1_EA4_UM_EN.pdf


Sent using Tapatalk HD.


----------



## Bwolcott

papageorgio said:


> I've been holding out for the zebralight q50 or s5310, but looks like my money might need to go elsewhere! They emailed me and said the s5310 was going to be released after the s6330, but who knows when that will be! Do you soft-press to change modes on the EA4? Or is it an electronic clicky like a ZL?



What's the s5310?


----------



## ericb445

papageorgio said:


> I've been holding out for the zebralight q50 or s5310, but looks like my money might need to go elsewhere! They emailed me and said the s5310 was going to be released after the s6330, but who knows when that will be! Do you soft-press to change modes on the EA4? Or is it an electronic clicky like a ZL?



Yes it's a soft press or "half press" to go through the modes. A hard press will bring you to turbo or high. When in turbo you can half press to get to high, which is slightly noticeable from turbo. I took it out last night to a farm field it throws pretty good for as small as it is.

I took a small video for you guys. http://youtu.be/xe0q3ugZ-uQ


----------



## pinhead

sbbsga said:


> Thank you very much.



You are welcome.


----------



## Kokopelli

I'm glad I ordered one for myself then. Along with a good set of Eneloops I bet bit will rival many single 18650 lights. I have two Thrunite TN11 on the way now. I'm now thinking if I bought just too much TN11 s.


----------



## sbbsga

Bwolcott said:


> What's the s5310?



It is a Zebralight. 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...authkey=CNqP6KIC&hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC#gid=0


----------



## RedBaron

Battery Junction informed me that the next batch is due in Friday 12/14. Hoping for an early Christmas present to me!


----------



## markr6

RedBaron said:


> Battery Junction informed me that the next batch is due in Friday 12/14. Hoping for an early Christmas present to me!


I ordered 11/27 and was hoping it would ship early this week. Maybe the 14th then, that's all I can wait!!


----------



## tonkem

ericb445 said:


> Yes it's a soft press or "half press" to go through the modes. A hard press will bring you to turbo or high. When in turbo you can half press to get to high, which is slightly noticeable from turbo. I took it out last night to a farm field it throws pretty good for as small as it is.
> 
> I took a small video for you guys. http://youtu.be/xe0q3ugZ-uQ



Looks like a decent light, but I would want to hold for the zebralight  thanks for the video.


----------



## GordoJones88

tonkem said:


> Looks like a decent light, but I would want to hold for the zebralight  thanks for the video.



Maybe the Zebralight will be ready for next Christmas, or the one after probably.


----------



## tonkem

GordoJones88 said:


> Maybe the Zebralight will be ready for next Christmas, or the one after probably.



I hear you. I just really like the styling and interface of the zebralights, and the awesome regulation and runtime. Patience is a virtue, no?


----------



## Patriot

I know that some retailers started shipping last week. Hopefully BJ will be shipping very soon. I'm eager to get my hand on this light.


----------



## biglights

Patriot said:


> I know that some retailers started shipping last week. Hopefully BJ will be shipping very soon. I'm eager to get my hand on this light.



The wait will be worth it! Had mine since this weekend, very nice light!


----------



## Patriot

biglights said:


> The wait will be worth it! Had mine since this weekend, very nice light!




Sweet!

Did you have a chance to post any pictures or your first impressions? I mean, I guess we all know what it looks like but hearing what our fellow CPFer's have to say is something I look forward too.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

biglights said:


> The wait will be worth it! Had mine since this weekend, very nice light!



How's the tint on it? Even though all the ones sold so far are cool white, how does it look to you? Anyone planning on getting the neutral IN ADDITION to the cool white version ? lol


----------



## Flight_Deck

RedBaron said:


> Battery Junction informed me that the next batch is due in Friday 12/14. Hoping for an early Christmas present to me!



They told me yesturday that they would have them tomorrow (Wednesday the 12th). 

It makes one wonder.


----------



## biglights

Patriot said:


> Sweet!
> 
> Did you have a chance to post any pictures or your first impressions? I mean, I guess we all know what it looks like but hearing what our fellow CPFer's have to say is something I look forward too.



It is awesome. Very cool tint, throws like a champ! I was surprised at the throw it had. Has a very nice spill pattern to it also. The only con if you could call it one is that the low is not all that low. Not a big deal, I have other lights for super low. I am really glad that I got it. No remorse with this one.


----------



## violatorjf

biglights said:


> It is awesome. Very cool tint, throws like a champ! I was surprised at the throw it had. Has a very nice spill pattern to it also. The only con if you could call it one is that the low is not all that low. Not a big deal, I have other lights for super low. I am really glad that I got it. No remorse with this one.



Thanks for the info. That was my same thought about the 65lm low. Not crazy about it, but honestly I'm not buying a 4AA 800+lm light to run it on low. Heck I still woulda bought it if it was a single mode light! I always carry another smaller light on me anyways. I'm looking forward to receiving mine and will be sure to comment on it.


----------



## markr6

AHHHH ship mine already!! I saw some beamshots on other sites, very impressive! I'm really excited about this one.


----------



## JeffN

Battery Junction just posted in CPFMP that it's going to be another week before they get stock. :sigh:


----------



## violatorjf

JeffN said:


> Battery Junction just posted in CPFMP that it's going to be another week before they get stock. :sigh:



Yes, that sucks! 

I had to cancel my order with them b/c I was counting on it to arrive in time to be an x-mas gift. We are traveling and it probably wouldn't have arrived by the time we have to depart. Decided to get one from Going Gear. Extra 12% off w/ coupon code holiday12. Came to $66.xx w/ priority mail shipping, or $61.xx w/ free shipping. Supply & demand!


----------



## markr6

violatorjf said:


> Yes, that sucks! I had to cancel my order with them b/c I was counting on it to arrive in time to be an x-mas gift. We are traveling and it probably wouldn't have arrived by the time we have to depart. Decided to get one from Going Gear. Extra 12% off w/ coupon code holiday12. Came to $66.xx w/ priority mail shipping, or $61.xx w/ free shipping. Supply & demand!


Had to do the same here. Saved some cash too! Plus, it gave me the opportunity to take a chance and go with the neutral white. I say "chance" because I never really liked neutral whites...I always see a greenish or yellowish tint with less output. But for some reason I have a feeling this will be a great tint!


----------



## Flight_Deck

markr6 said:


> Had to do the same here. Saved some cash too!


 x2. Thanks for the Going Gear tip!


----------



## violatorjf

markr6 said:


> Had to do the same here. Saved some cash too! Plus, it gave me the opportunity to take a chance and go with the neutral white. I say "chance" because I never really liked neutral whites...I always see a greenish or yellowish tint with less output. But for some reason I have a feeling this will be a great tint!



In that case you may have to change your sig...


----------



## markr6

violatorjf said:


> In that case you may have to change your sig...


LOL!!! I wondered who was going to catch that...I'll know for sure soon when I get the EA4, and hopefully I eat my own words.

And I just noticed the stock is down to 5 already...Marshall's got to love us!

Update: ...and it shipped already! That's how you do business!!


----------



## violatorjf

Yep, mine shipped already too. Can't get it fast enough! 

Wanna know what's funny? When I was placing my order I thought hmm... maybe I should switch to neutral? Then I saw your sig again and thought naahhh. LOL

Atleast we can compare them now. I was thinking, I have one of the Coast HP550's that use 9AA's to get 1,000lm. This beast is getting 800+ off of 4AA's. So you know where I'm going with this right?? YES, 8AA with well over 1,000lm. I'd be in that's for sure.


----------



## SilverCaper

Thanks guys. I just canceled my order with BJ and bought the last two neutral EA4s at Going Gear.


----------



## cccpull

Was considering a 4sevens x10 (or whatever they call it now), but since it's for a gift the AA batteries made my decision. I'm tired of dealing with specialty batteries. These can run on any store bought rechargeable or primary battery.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

The EA4s are selling like hot cakes. From all those saying they chose this instead of holding out for a q50 (myself included), i wonder if when the q50 thing finally does come out, the release gonna be a big flop because EA4? haha


----------



## GordoJones88

:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: 


I just bought the last EA4 at Going Gear for the sale price of $61 shipped.


----------



## markr6

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> The EA4s are selling like hot cakes. From all those saying they chose this instead of holding out for a q50 (myself included), i wonder if when the q50 thing finally does come out, the release gonna be a big flop because EA4? haha



Well since I wanted the Q50, and I just ordered the EA4, I'm sure it will come out tomorrow


----------



## stp

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> The EA4s are selling like hot cakes. From all those saying they chose this instead of holding out for a q50 (myself included), i wonder if when the q50 thing finally does come out, the release gonna be a big flop because EA4? haha



I don't think so. I doubt that we will see q50 at all. If ZL will push that light design ahead it will be new light with new specs and probably new name (q60?). And it will not happen soon because they have many things going around now. They just introduced SC52, next will be s6330 after that sc600 MkII. Then I guess it will be time for H52 with new engine (I can't wait). They will also have to use some resources to introduce xpg2 somewhere in between and dont forget about neutral tints. At the same time they are moving some production to US and it's probably harder and more expensive that they thought that it will be specially in current economic. They had to have some big problems because they introduced SC52 few weeks to late for Christmas (big unrealised profit here) and will miss it with s6330.

I think that at some stage they decided that they are not ready yet, not big enough to make, market and successfully sell light like that, targeted in some part at regular Joe. It would be risky decision with current ZL interface anyway. Add to that high production cost because it was still quite a big light for them, lots of surface to cnc and anodize. As every other company they have limited resources and probably they calculated that it will be better for now pushing light like s6330. Not much bigger or complicated and can be sold for much more.

So...if/when the q50 or its descendant will come the EA4 will be song of the past and probably outdated.

PS. It's all guessing on my part, no inside info or anything like that so who knows...and sorry for going deep into offtopic.


----------



## markr6

IT'S HERE!!! I chose the free shipping from GoingGear Wednesday and it's here on Friday! Well, technically. I had it shipped to work and there's a delivery service that brings it around 9AM and they have it, so I'll know for sure very soon. I'll need to steal some batteries from work to test it out since I can't wait til 4pm!


----------



## Flight_Deck

This thing is amazing. The output is in every way detectable EXACTLY the same as my ThruNite TN11 running on two Li-Ions. Great throw, excellent spill/flood and pure white (I got the cool white version). It KILLS the Fenix E40 and JetBeam PA40. The TM11 interface (with blue backlight), works like a charm. Built like a pocket tank.

Get this one. You will NOT be disappointed, as soon as they are available again that is. Like it says above, Battery Junction said they would have theirs next week.

Incidentally I got mine through EdisonBright on Amazon, but they’ve just raised their price to $100.00.


----------



## Wtlj

Just ordered mine $59.46 with free shipping!


----------



## PhatPhil

Flight_Deck said:


> Great throw, excellent spill/flood and pure white (I got the cool white version).



Warmer or cooler than 5000k?


----------



## arn357

I had a problem with my tailcap but it was an easy fix. There is a little metal cap that holds the battery contact plate to the center post inside the tailcap. The cap came off on mine. I used just a little dab of blue loctite making sure not to use too much because this contact plate needs to spin freely.


----------



## markr6

WOW what is this thing!?!? It's tiny! When I hear 4AA I think of a big bulky torch. This thing is great. I am so glad I changed my order to a Neutral, because it's a nice tint and still cool in my opinion. I can't imagine what the cool white looks like! Nice UI too. I always appreciate a momentary on feature but I can make an exception with this light since you can turn it on and off quickly without activating some stupid, useless mode or change in levels.

Buy an EA4 NEUTRAL now! Do it!


----------



## xed888

markr6 said:


> WOW what is this thing!?!? It's tiny! When I hear 4AA I think of a big bulky torch. This thing is great. I am so glad I changed my order to a Neutral, because it's a nice tint and still cool in my opinion. I can't imagine what the cool white looks like! Nice UI too. I always appreciate a *momentary on feature* but I can make an exception with this light since you can turn it on and off quickly without activating some stupid, useless mode or change in levels.
> 
> Buy an EA4 NEUTRAL now! Do it!



there is a momentary feature. press and hold button for >1s to switch on and then let go and it will switch off. try it.


----------



## markr6

I stand corrected! Per the manual:

Daily mode has a momentary function which allows the light to beturned on only when the switch is held. With the light turned off, pressthe switch partway down and hold to activate daily mode’s momentaryfunction. The light will turn off the moment the switch is released.

I love this thing!


----------



## __philippe

*



Re: **NEW** Nitecore EA4 Pioneer (4*AA, 860lm)*_*ZRXBILL *said (post #101)
I worry about those 2 negative springs on the tail cap catching on the batteries as as it's screwed on repeatedly.

_
​Not to worry;

The tail cap contacts assembly plate includes two protruding registration pins designed to mesh with two corresponding registration holes bored in the back end of the light.

The contacts assembly plate spins freely within the tail cap; however, as you tighten the tail cap by screwing it onto the body end, the registration pins gradually engage into their registration holes, preventing the contacts assembly plate from rotating relative to the batteries ends; the contact springs get thus squarely compressed in-line against the mating batteries ends, avoiding any rattling motion.

Clever design...

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## tonkem

stp said:


> I don't think so. I doubt that we will see q50 at all. If ZL will push that light design ahead it will be new light with new specs and probably new name (q60?). And it will not happen soon because they have many things going around now. They just introduced SC52, next will be s6330 after that sc600 MkII. Then I guess it will be time for H52 with new engine (I can't wait). They will also have to use some resources to introduce xpg2 somewhere in between and dont forget about neutral tints. At the same time they are moving some production to US and it's probably harder and more expensive that they thought that it will be specially in current economic. They had to have some big problems because they introduced SC52 few weeks to late for Christmas (big unrealised profit here) and will miss it with s6330.
> 
> 
> I think that at some stage they decided that they are not ready yet, not big enough to make, market and successfully sell light like that, targeted in some part at regular Joe. It would be risky decision with current ZL interface anyway. Add to that high production cost because it was still quite a big light for them, lots of surface to cnc and anodize. As every other company they have limited resources and probably they calculated that it will be better for now pushing light like s6330. Not much bigger or complicated and can be sold for much more.
> 
> So...if/when the q50 or its descendant will come the EA4 will be song of the past and probably outdated.
> 
> PS. It's all guessing on my part, no inside info or anything like that so who knows...and sorry for going deep into offtopic.



I will still wait for the Q50, much prefer the Zebralights to Nitcore lights. I am glad to hear that everyone likes this light, though


----------



## __philippe

Additional picture illustrating the tail cap pins-and-holes registration design:


----------



## r-ice

I just bought two off of illumination supply and they shipped today!!!


----------



## Wtlj

r-ice said:


> I just bought two off of illumination supply and they shipped today!!!



That's we're I bought mine this morning. What price did you pay, and when did you order them?


----------



## ZRXBILL

__philippe said:


> *
> 
> 
> 
> Re: **NEW** Nitecore EA4 Pioneer (4*AA, 860lm)*_*ZRXBILL *said (post #101)
> I worry about those 2 negative springs on the tail cap catching on the batteries as as it's screwed on repeatedly.
> 
> _
> ​Not to worry;
> 
> The tail cap contacts assembly plate includes two protruding registration pins designed to mate two corresponding registration holes bored in the back end of the light.
> 
> The contacts assembly plate rotates freely within the tail cap; however, as you tighten the tail cap by screwing it onto the body end, the registration pins prevent the contacts assembly plate from rotating relative to the batteries ends; the contact springs get thus compressed in-line against their mating batteries ends, avoiding any rattling motion.
> 
> Clever design...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> __philippe




Thanks for that. Much appreciated.


----------



## GordoJones88

tonkem said:


> I will still wait for the Q50, much prefer the Zebralights to Nitcore lights. I am glad to hear that everyone likes this light, though


 
At this point with all of Zebralights other lights that are supposed to be coming out. There is simply no way they can possibly make the Q50 anymore. It's vaporware.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Since you says it kills the fenix E40 and jetbeam Pa40, if you've time, do you think you could do a beamshot comparison whenever you've the time? I'm sure many, many people on the forum would like to see. I'm still waiting on mines to arrive... arggg :hairpull:


----------



## Flight_Deck

So sorry as to not being able to provide a beamshot, but like I said, it is an EXACT match with the beam of a ThruNite TN11.


----------



## amaretto

10 minutes runtime test, fan cooling, Eneloop XX. Stepdown after 190 seconds, excellent regulation imho


----------



## markr6

amaretto said:


> 10 minutes runtime test, fan cooling, Eneloop XX. Stepdown after 190 seconds, excellent regulation imho


Nice! I just ordered a pack of Eneloop XX yesterday specifically for this light.

And I just realized this is going to be a killer power outage lamp. Short and wide compared to many other torches, it provides very solid tail standing and 65lumens/22hrs is fantastic and should be enough for small-medium size rooms, or bump it up to the next level and still get a decent run time. Of course there are better options for this, but another great application.


----------



## amaretto

If someone dislikes the stepdown: turn off and on again for full power. After stepdown the light is running quite cool.


----------



## violatorjf

markr6 said:


> WOW what is this thing!?!? It's tiny! When I hear 4AA I think of a big bulky torch. This thing is great.



So would an 8AA version kick some A?


----------



## tonkem

GordoJones88 said:


> At this point with all of Zebralights other lights that are supposed to be coming out. There is simply no way they can possibly make the Q50 anymore. It's vaporware.



I can wait


----------



## markr6

violatorjf said:


> So would an 8AA version kick some A?


Well instead of basically re-creating the TK41, Nitecore could come up with something as short as the EA4 but wider - basically a soup can with 8 AAs and an LED 

Seriously though, this is my new favorite light and expect it to be a huge success. I can't wait to take some beamshots tonight!


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

markr6 said:


> Seriously though, this is my new favorite light and expect it to be a huge success. I can't wait to take some beamshots tonight!



Neither can i to see them! Be awesome if you could compare them to other lights you have. Thanks for doing this for us! :kiss::kiss:


----------



## r-ice

Wtlj said:


> That's we're I bought mine this morning. What price did you pay, and when did you order them?


well i ended up paying 60.03 for the first light shipped and 60.11 for the second light, all because of fluctuating us-cdn dollars


----------



## jayflash

The 135 and 550 lumen levels might be eliminated with fractional lumen (~0.3?) and really low (~10?) lumen levels added. For myself, I prefer an approximate 1:3 change between levels to be useful and worthwhile. Otherwise, I'm possibly wasting time clicking through them.


----------



## LEDmodMan

Just found out today about the issue with BJ not getting their shipment in. :sick2: I'm pretty upset that they didn't let people know they weren't in by any other means than posting over in the dealer section.  Lame. I've been a customer there for a LONG time, but this is a pretty big let-down.  :shakehead

I had planned to give 2 of these as Christmas gifts, and now for all intents and purposes, it is too late to order elsewhere and have them in time without getting bent over for express shipping.  I guess I'll have to wrap some empty boxes (maybe throw a couple printed pics in them) and apologize to my dad and FIL. At least they're both pretty understanding with that kind of thing. :fail: 

Boo Battery Junction. :sigh: 

On a lighter note, it sounds like from the early reviews that these little AA powerhouses are gonna be the bee's knees!!!


----------



## cccpull

LEDmodMan said:


> Just found out today about the issue with BJ not getting their shipment in. :sick2: I'm pretty upset that they didn't let people know they weren't in by any other means than posting over in the dealer section.  Lame. I've been a customer there for a LONG time, but this is a pretty big let-down.  :shakehead
> 
> I had planned to give 2 of these as Christmas gifts, and now for all intents and purposes, it is too late to order elsewhere and have them in time without getting bent over for express shipping.  I guess I'll have to wrap some empty boxes (maybe throw a couple printed pics in them) and apologize to my dad and FIL. At least they're both pretty understanding with that kind of thing. :fail:
> 
> Boo Battery Junction. :sigh:
> 
> On a lighter note, it sounds like from the early reviews that these little AA powerhouses are gonna be the bee's knees!!!



You might still be able to get them in time. Iluminationsupply seems to have them in stock and they're on the west coast.


----------



## Wtlj

cccpull said:


> You might still be able to get them in time. Iluminationsupply seems to have them in stock and they're on the west coast.



Yes, I ordered mine from them today and I believe it already shipped out. There also the cheapest at $59.46 with promo code and free shipping.


----------



## READYSETGO

Thanks for all the comments from owners or owners to be. I have one being shipped to give to my Mother In Law for Christmas.  Her main flashlight right now is an old Maglite. 

I hope she throughtly enjoys a nice bright new playtoy torch.


----------



## Patriot

LEDmodMan said:


> Just found out today about the issue with BJ not getting their shipment in. :sick2: I'm pretty upset that they didn't let people know they weren't in by any other means than posting over in the dealer section.  Lame. I've been a customer there for a LONG time, but this is a pretty big let-down.  :shakehead
> 
> I had planned to give 2 of these as Christmas gifts, and now for all intents and purposes, it is too late to order elsewhere and have them in time without getting bent over for express shipping.  I guess I'll have to wrap some empty boxes (maybe throw a couple printed pics in them) and apologize to my dad and FIL. At least they're both pretty understanding with that kind of thing. :fail:
> 
> Boo Battery Junction. :sigh:





I'm with ya! I was so disappointed that I cancelled my order. 

I had hoped to be doing video reviews on it now rather than writing about why I don't have it. Every other CPF dealer got them.

Sure looks like a great pocket thrower! Can't wait to drop some 2500 loops in one. When I get it!


----------



## biglights

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Since you says it kills the fenix E40 and jetbeam Pa40, if you've time, do you think you could do a beamshot comparison whenever you've the time? I'm sure many, many people on the forum would like to see. I'm still waiting on mines to arrive... arggg :hairpull:



I can also confirm this, as I have both. The EA4 is absolutely amazing! It is kinda like a blend of the two. The EA4 has the throw of the E40 with the great spill of the PA40. For those of you waiting on this, you will not be let down when it arrives. Enjoy :thumbsup:


----------



## violatorjf

I hope I'm not the only one here who gets home and frowns when I see no box sitting on my front porch. :sigh:


----------



## GordoJones88

Please stop gushing over this light as I cannot open mine till Christmas morning and I am about to burst already!!


----------



## Palaeoboy

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> The EA4s are selling like hot cakes. From all those saying they chose this instead of holding out for a q50 (myself included), i wonder if when the q50 thing finally does come out, the release gonna be a big flop because EA4? haha



Zebralight really dropped the ball with the Q50. They had since last year to dominate this niche of stumpy 4AA lights and just let it slide they had so much interest in some of the threads I read on here. It was going to be my first Zebralight too. Nitecore has just swooped in and robbed them of at least half of their sales, only those who really need lower modes will probably hold out now. Shame I had high hopes for the Q50. With a dome diffuser to go with it and its square shape it sooooo would have made the perfect camping light.


----------



## Palaeoboy

markr6 said:


> Nice! I just ordered a pack of Eneloop XX yesterday specifically for this light.
> 
> And I just realized this is going to be a killer power outage lamp. Short and wide compared to many other torches, it provides very solid tail standing and 65lumens/22hrs is fantastic and should be enough for small-medium size rooms, or bump it up to the next level and still get a decent run time. Of course there are better options for this, but another great application.



Yes I hope someone comes up with a dome diffuser for it as it would make an excellent emergency / camping lantern. The Fenix E50 pages on their site show a diffuser for that light and it is also 40mm head diameter so there may be possibilities for a diffuser there. One of the reasons i do often by fenix is for the range of shades and lantern diffusers.


----------



## PhatPhil

Ordered a EA4W neutral last night. Not sure if I'll see it this side of Xmas


----------



## dkelly

What is the promo code? 



Wtlj said:


> Yes, I ordered mine from them today and I believe it already shipped out. There also the cheapest at $59.46 with promo code and free shipping.


----------



## Wtlj

dkelly said:


> What is the promo code?



Ea4


----------



## violatorjf

According to the USPS tracking info...mine is coming today!!! :twothumbs


----------



## windsurf

Waiting on the mailman for my NW. Completed sorting at my Post Office at 9:13am.


----------



## dkelly

Thanks!


Wtlj said:


> Ea4


----------



## violatorjf

Not to brag but...







Beamshots to come soon! Will compare to my Coast HP550 9AA 1000lm, Defiant 3C 500lm, and Fenix E21 2AA 150lm.

for Going Gear, ordered on Dec 12th and arrived Dec 15th w/ free shipping - AWESOME!


----------



## READYSETGO

Go ahead and BRAG! I will - that is "SWEET".


----------



## cccpull

Got the light, very nice, slightly smaller than the Maelstorm X10, but with 4 eneloops has almost twice the juice. The additional modes and ability to run on any AA, no need to depend on a charger in the middle of nowhere, makes it great for camping.

BTW Always great service from Goinggear.


----------



## cccpull

violatorjf said:


> Not to brag but...
> 
> Beamshots to come soon! Will compare to my Coast HP550 9AA 1000lm, Defiant 3C 500lm, and Fenix E21 2AA 150lm.
> 
> for Going Gear, ordered on Dec 12th and arrived Dec 15th w/ free shipping - AWESOME!



Looking forward to the beam shots.:wave:


----------



## markr6

Here's a quick comparison with my LD22 R5 (but cooler than my LD12 R5), mainly to show the tint difference. As usual they both look much better in person.

I'll leave the better beam shots and reviews to the pros 

This is pretty close since my home is small, about 9' away.

This was my first order with GoingGear - ordered 12/12 at 1PM, arrived 12/14 at 6:38AM (delivered to work at 9AM) with free 1st Class shipping. They just got a new customer for future orders!







p.s. Like I mentioned earlier in this thread, this is GREAT for tail standing in a power outage...or for doing work with the electricity turned off. I installed a chandelier today on a 12' high ceiling with the EA4 on the ground. Perfect light!


----------



## GordoJones88

markr6 said:


> Here's a quick comparison with my LD22 R5 (but cooler than my LD12 R5), mainly to show the tint difference.




I take it that the dirty yellow beam shot on the left is a Neutral White EA4 ?


----------



## violatorjf

Now that I have one in hand I can see the disappointment with the 65lm low. With such a great ability to tailstand it really makes one wish for lower lows.

If I could choose it would probably be something like this...

860lm - TURBO
400lm - HIGH
100lm - MED
25lm - LOW
5lm or less - MOONLIGHT

Not complaining, just suggesting.


----------



## moshow9

I can understand those that ordered from Battery Junction upset at the situation, I was one of those that placed a pre-order with them. I can also imagine that know one is more disappointed about the shipping delay than they are. But it's one of those things they have no control over and this could have happened with any dealer.

As others have commented, it is a bit smaller than I anticipated and was surprised when I removed it from the box. It's bright, that's for sure! Overall seems nice, although I would have preferred a different way to change modes. The switch is a little too sensitive, to be fair though that is by design since it uses both soft presses and hard presses to access different mode groups. Maybe having to double click to advance to the next mode (and having strobe accessed a different way) or having a way to lock in a mode? Also, the instructions state that a triple click is needed to unlock the light from lockout but that is not the case with this light. The one that I received requires a hard press and hold until the light turns back on. And yes, it does need a lower low.

Despite the lack of a lower low, this one will replace my Olight S35 as my go to light for around the house and carry along for travel.


----------



## windsurf

Been playing with the EA4 NW received from Going Gear. All the modes work per the enclosed printed manual and the pdf *EXCEPT*:

To exit Lockout Mode, I have to press and hold for > 1 sec (either half press or full press). The manual says press 3 times within a second. Anybody else seeing this? :help:

As to the tint, it is the coolest compared to my other 3 NW (2 Xeno E03 and a Quark X AA2​), but definitely more yellow than my Quark AA CW so the box sticker "EA4W" appears to be correct. 

This EA4 has a nice color hotspot/corona, but casts a light violet spill (closeup/8' white ceiling) which is more noticeable on the higher outputs. None of my other lights do this. Outside, the change in spill color isn't noticeable, so overall it's not a problem.

Overall, nice to finally have something that throws!

(I now see others have the same lockout exit)


----------



## moshow9

windsurf said:


> As to the tint, it is the coolest compared to my other 3 NW (2 Xeno E03 and a Quark X AA2​), but definitely more yellow than my Quark AA CW so the box sticker "EA4W" appears to be correct.


I actually overlooked this on the box but mine does indeed have the EA4W sticker on the bottom of the box. That makes the light I received the correct one then, but like you, I find the tint to be on the way cool side of neutral white. I was expecting it to be more like the photo Nitecore released showing a side by side beamshot comparison between the CW/NW models.


----------



## markr6

GordoJones88 said:


> I take it that the dirty yellow beam shot on the left is a Neutral White EA4 ?



See Spyder display calibration products


----------



## Wtlj

markr6 said:


> See Spyder display calibration products



Haha, perfect!


----------



## windsurf

moshow9 said:


> I find the tint to be on the way cool side of neutral white. I was expecting it to be more like the photo Nitecore released showing a side by side beamshot comparison between the CW/NW models.



Comparing my NW beam to that Nitecore website pic, my hotspot appears much whiter (even while squinting), with the corona the same as theirs, but my spill is a very noticeable, abrupt, and unpleasant light violet. But I don't plan on using it indoors, so doesn't concern me too much.


----------



## Bigpapi13

I cancelled my order today as well from BJ and ordered instead from IS....saved me 10 bucks and in stock..


----------



## xpitxbullx

$59.46 from illumination supply with shipping. I got my order in.

Jeff


----------



## SIG

I ordered one from IS today, too! Can't wait to receive it. Good price and local, so it should arrive soon.


----------



## violatorjf

This is my new favorite light, hands down! It's size-to-power ratio is just ridiculous. Something is going on with my digital camera so I wasn't able to get any 'good' shots. (no matter what batteries I put in it it says they are dead?) Here are a couple ceiling bounce shots from our bedroom taken w/ my cell phone...crappy but better than nothing.

Here are the 4 lights pictured below.





Ceiling fan lights on, 3x 15w CFLs





Fenix E21 2AA on high (150lm)





Defiant 3C (500lm)






Coast HP550 9AA on high, beam focused tight (1,000lm)





Nitecore EA4 4AA on turbo (860lm)






I was going to post them in order of rated lumens, but the EA4 _seemed_ slightly brighter to my eyes than the HP550. (not to mention the EA4 is less than half the size of the HP550 and only uses 4AA vs. 9AA for just $10 more) After looking at the pics it would seem that my eyes have been confirmed, although my camera phone is not the greatest.

Not to beat a dead horse, but really my only (slight) disappointment w/ the light is its 65lm low. I already knew and told myself it wasn't a big deal, which truly its not, but if they came out w/ a modified version with lower lows I would probably buy at least 2 of them.

Personally I've found the mode switching system to be easy to use. After a couple hrs I've become in tune with the soft press vs. hard press. Initially sometimes I thought I was giving it a soft press but going straight to turbo, which is a hard press - and vice versa. But like I said, shortly thereafter I've adjusted and think it's a pretty solid switching system. Since the light is a little chunky w/ the 4AA's I really like the placement of the button. I think a clicky switch would be very akward with this light.

I put the light on turbo, started the timer on my phone, and set it standing up on my desk. It switched from turbo to high after 3min 5sec. The light was warm but not hot.

For me, this has got to be the new benchmark that I judge my future light purchases off of. I've always had a loose trigger finger on buying lights - especially when they are on sale/clearance. From now on I think I will have to ask myself...how does it compare to the EA4? For the roughly $60 price point, convenience of AA batteries, miniature size and incredible output, I have a feeling I'm going to be a little more picky on my purchases. After all, we just want to get the most 'bang for our buck', right? 

One last pic...





I bought this light with the anticipation of turning it into my EDC w/o having to use the holster. I almost always wear carpenter style jeans/pants with the long narrow side pocket on my right leg. Well it fits great. I was concerned that maybe when I sat down it would bulge and feel uncomfortable but I don't even notice its there.


----------



## Patriot

Thanks for that mini review violatorjf!

We appreciate the pictures and your thoughts.


----------



## Palaeoboy

Anyone buy both cool and neutral white versions by any chance? Whats the preference? I ask having just bought a NW Fenix E50 which is great but if i get this as well in NW I wonder if im overlapping too much.


----------



## grepeyre

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the forum but by gosh if I'd known it was around would've signed up a long time ago. 

So anyway I've ordered one of those bad boys off of ebay four days ago, well after seeing what you're saying about it can't wait for it to arrive which will probably in a month or so. Postage it slow in Mauritius.

That torch is really going to be awesome, my current torch is a liteXpress WorkX SOS 2 78Lm bought a few years back on sale for $5 and I've been so happy with it, so you can imagine how the EA4 will stack up next to it hehe

Cheers


----------



## violatorjf

grepeyre said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I'm new to the forum but by gosh if I'd known it was around would've signed up a long time ago.
> 
> So anyway I've ordered one of those bad boys off of ebay four days ago, well after seeing what you're saying about it can't wait for it to arrive which will probably in a month or so. Postage it slow in Mauritius.
> 
> That torch is really going to be awesome, my current torch is a liteXpress WorkX SOS 2 78Lm bought a few years back on sale for $5 and I've been so happy with it, so you can imagine how the EA4 will stack up next to it hehe
> 
> Cheers



Welcome! 

Yes my friend, if you're used to a sub-100 lumen light then you are in for a wonderful surprise. I hope you enjoy your new light as much as I have been.


----------



## grepeyre

violatorjf said:


> Welcome!
> 
> Yes my friend, if you're used to a sub-100 lumen light then you are in for a wonderful surprise. I hope you enjoy your new light as much as I have been.



Thank you, Indeed I'm sure I will massively enjoy it hehe I was looking into (more like drooling over) a Tiny Monster in fact, then came across the EA4. 4xAA batteries torch is a must have no matter what and with that output, brrr... The only thing I'm worried about is battery leakage at high output. 

I'm also expecting a Trustfire TR-J1 "1000lm" for scuba diving, wonder how that'll compare.


----------



## tickled

windsurf said:


> As to the tint, it is the coolest compared to my other 3 NW (2 Xeno E03 and a Quark X AA2​), but definitely more yellow than my Quark AA CW so the box sticker "EA4W" appears to be correct.


 So the neutral is cooler than 5000K?


----------



## TouchOfRed

I really really really really want this light, but i ordered a MH25 this Friday.. So it feels like im speding to much to fast, and im trying to save some, but its hard when you see beatiful torches like this.. 

I heard that 14500 batteries sux, becuase they are getting discharged fast, and when they are discharging, you can see the output drop more and more. That its getting weaker and weaker til it discharges fully. That it dont have full strenght til it discharges. But i dont know? 
Is this anything i should have in mind while thinking about buying this torch? Is there any Pros or Cons with having a 14500 torch? 

I think this light would be a better choice for me then the MH25, but i really want both of them. But im not sure how to deal with this.. 
EA4 is a very compact torch, which would be awesome, i really like compact torches.. 

Give me som guideance guys/girls? I mean, i do really want both MH25 and EA4.. Seems to be same torch just in different appearances? With different clickys and modes ofcourse. 
Buy both or just one? Which one in that case? 

I do have 2pcs 18650 3400mAh batteries + an intellicharger i2 incoming, and if i dont buy the MH25 it will be a waste (Got 2 ultrafires who uses 18650, but i dont like Ultrafire except the Ultrafire H4 which i love)
Sorry, Wall of text.. But i tend to overwrite things very often, i just want you to understand fully why im saying things, i want to have a base for my thoughts so its not random thoughts.. Very well, sorry again.


----------



## alohasurftoad

_I heard that 14500 batteries sux, becuase they are getting discharged fast, and when they are discharging, you can see the output drop more and more. That its getting weaker and weaker til it discharges fully. That it dont have full strenght til it discharges. But i dont know? 
Is this anything i should have in mind while thinking about buying this torch? Is there any Pros or Cons with having a 14500 torch? 
_
*You cannot run the EA4 from 4x14500 Li-ion batteries. Most that buy the EA4 will use Eneloops or alkalines as a last resort. 
*
_I think this light would be a better choice for me then the MH25, but i really want both of them. But im not sure how to deal with this.. 
EA4 is a very compact torch, which would be awesome, i really like compact torches.. 

Give me som guideance guys/girls? I mean, i do really want both MH25 and EA4.. Seems to be same torch just in different appearances? With different clickys and modes ofcourse. 
Buy both or just one? Which one in that case? 

I do have 2pcs 18650 3400mAh batteries + an intellicharger i2 incoming, and if i dont buy the MH25 it will be a waste (Got 2 ultrafires who uses 18650, but i dont like Ultrafire except the Ultrafire H4 which i love)
Sorry, Wall of text.. But i tend to overwrite things very often, i just want you to understand fully why im saying things, i want to have a base for my thoughts so its not random thoughts.. Very well, sorry again.[_/QUOTE]

*Unfortunately you have no choice... you have to buy both or you will go crazy thinking about the one you don't have ^^*


----------



## moshow9

tickled said:


> So the neutral is cooler than 5000K?


I know you weren't asking me but to my eyes I would say yes it is cooler than 5000K.

Just one other thing I would like to see improved upon in a future release is regarding the momentary feature. It is a 2 stage, if you soft press >1 sec. you have momentary on whatever lower mode you had selected. From here you can access turbo momentary by a hard press. However, when you release from a hard press (back into what would be the soft press) the output remains at turbo until you release the switch at which point the EA4 turns off. It would be nice if the output would drop back down from turbo to the lower output as you back off the switch before a full release.


----------



## windsurf

tickled said:


> So the neutral is cooler than 5000K?



Since my Xeno NW E03's are supposed to be XM-L 3C (5000K to slightly warmer), I'd have to say my EA4 is 5000K to slightly cooler.


----------



## trainingwolves

Awesome light!!! I just got the MH40. It is by far one of my favorite lights. You gotta check it out if you haven't already.


----------



## TouchOfRed

alohasurftoad said:


> _I heard that 14500 batteries sux, becuase they are getting discharged fast, and when they are discharging, you can see the output drop more and more. That its getting weaker and weaker til it discharges fully. That it dont have full strenght til it discharges. But i dont know?
> Is this anything i should have in mind while thinking about buying this torch? Is there any Pros or Cons with having a 14500 torch?
> _
> *You cannot run the EA4 from 4x14500 Li-ion batteries. Most that buy the EA4 will use Eneloops or alkalines as a last resort.
> *
> _I think this light would be a better choice for me then the MH25, but i really want both of them. But im not sure how to deal with this..
> EA4 is a very compact torch, which would be awesome, i really like compact torches..
> 
> Give me som guideance guys/girls? I mean, i do really want both MH25 and EA4.. Seems to be same torch just in different appearances? With different clickys and modes ofcourse.
> Buy both or just one? Which one in that case?
> 
> I do have 2pcs 18650 3400mAh batteries + an intellicharger i2 incoming, and if i dont buy the MH25 it will be a waste (Got 2 ultrafires who uses 18650, but i dont like Ultrafire except the Ultrafire H4 which i love)
> Sorry, Wall of text.. But i tend to overwrite things very often, i just want you to understand fully why im saying things, i want to have a base for my thoughts so its not random thoughts.. Very well, sorry again.[_/QUOTE]
> 
> *Unfortunately you have no choice... you have to buy both or you will go crazy thinking about the one you don't have ^^*



Iam not so in to batteries, but are Alkalinebatteries rechargeable? or must i buy normal AA's? Non-rechargeable batteries Will be Very expensive in the End. 

Yeah, i must buy it now when i've found it.. i Will not stop thinking about it if i dont buy it LOL. 

Sorry for being such a Big newbie


----------



## BigusLightus

Received mine Yesterday. Burned through two sets of batteries before I had a chance to use it! I like the switch while I'm using it and I absolutely HATE the switch when I'm not using it. Even with the lock-out function engaged the light turns on all by itself while I'm wearing it on my belt with the supplied holster.

I have no need for a light that won't stay off. The included instructions are not accurate either. On my light the switch must be held down for a few seconds to cancel the lock out. How can such a cool light have such a stupid switch?

This one will be returned first thing Monday morning.


----------



## kkeyser

Anybody else having issues with the switch?


----------



## TouchOfRed

kkeyser said:


> Anybody else having issues with the switch?



I also need to know this :/ does not sound Good :\


----------



## ericb445

kkeyser said:


> Anybody else having issues with the switch?


 


I have had no problems with mine.. But to turn on from lock out you just have to press and hold the switch. I did wear mine in the holster for a day, and never had it come on while in the holster.


----------



## daywalker

Hi flashoholics, long time ago since I left a comment on the Forum. Received the light 5 days ago, after I decided to get me a new ligt. I took it for walk last night in the holster and now problems with it, even without using the lockout mode. No malfunction so far. The light has a nice hotspot compared to my 4sevens Quark turbo with the big head. The high mode outshines the Quark and unfortunately I have no other light with such a high output to compare.
The switch on my light works perfect, but like others already said, to get back from lockout mode I have to hold the switch down until it brings back the smile on your face.
Now i get back to the steelers on German television, but I had to response on the questions.


----------



## markr6

kkeyser said:


> Anybody else having issues with the switch?



I freaking LOVE THIS SWITCH. It reminds me of the Zebralight switch since you get a lot out of it without being too cumbersome after you learn it. Like the ZL, it takes some time to get the hang of it. The momentary is a really nice feature I've been using a lot already. I don't use the holster, so I can't comment on that.


----------



## Lichtinsdunkel

I've checked out the light in the last three days intensively. Usually, I don't like flashlights with four AA-Cells, because they are too big and don't have good power.
But this one I really like. It's really good to handle, and with four Eneloops the runtime is also okay. Alkalines are only for "Emergency use" - but that's okay I think.

I also think that the only question is the switch. How long will it work until a malfunction? Time will show.


----------



## Patriot

Lichtinsdunkel said:


> I also think that the only question is the switch. How long will it work until a malfunction? Time will show.



I must say that the switch would appeal to me a bit more if it followed closer to the style of the TM11 & TM15. It doesn't seem substantial enough but that's a purely subjective thought.


----------



## violatorjf

When I was getting in bed tonight I noticed the light was on in my side pocket. Pulled it out and it was warm, but not sure how long it was on. First time it happened to me. Seems like maybe the switch could be recessed a little bit? Not exactly sure.


----------



## Patriot

The EC25 seems to have a very nicely designed switch that's semi-recessed. Too bad it doesn't throw like the EA4.


----------



## oKtosiTe

violatorjf said:


> When I was getting in bed tonight I noticed the light was on in my side pocket. Pulled it out and it was warm, but not sure how long it was on. First time it happened to me. Seems like maybe the switch could be recessed a little bit? Not exactly sure.


Did you enter lockout mode before putting it in your pocket? This light leaves lockout mode by holding the switch pressed, as opposed to the TM11, where three rapid presses are required to unlock the light.
Since this light doesn't run Li-ions, the danger is largely dimished, but it's still a worry I would have with this flashlight.


----------



## violatorjf

oKtosiTe said:


> Did you enter lockout mode before putting it in your pocket? This light leaves lockout mode by holding the switch pressed, as opposed to the TM11, where three rapid presses are required to unlock the light.
> Since this light doesn't run Li-ions, the danger is largely dimished, but it's still a worry I would have with this flashlight.



Yes it was in lockout mode. As you said, it's probably more likely for the button to be pressed for a couple straight seconds in your pocket than it is to get three quick consecutive presses. Hopefully this doesn't turn out to be a big mistake on their part.
It would seem to me that a recessed switch would be more successful with holding to leave lockout and a non-recessed switch would be more successful with a multiple-rapid-click to leave lockout. What do I know though? 


EDIT: As others mentioned the user manual says to exit lockout mode with 3 clicks within 1sec but it doesn't work. I just sent Nitecore a message asking which is wrong, the manual or the light. I'll let you know what I find out.


----------



## markr6

I'm not seeing anything about three clicks to exit lockout mode in the manual, only "Holding the switch for more than one secondto exit the lockout mode." and that works.


----------



## windsurf

markr6 said:


> I'm not seeing anything about three clicks to exit lockout mode in the manual, only "Holding the switch for more than one secondto exit the lockout mode." and that works.



Nitecore must have revised the 2 page manual somewhere along the way. Last sentence of the 2nd para under "Standy Mode/Lockout" in mine states, "To exit lockout mode, simply press the switch three times within one second." Obviously that's not how the light behaves.


----------



## windsurf

I'm wondering about the tint on my NW EA4. It's not a problem outdoors where of course it belongs, but indoors its odd.

The following whitewall was about 18" away. The level was on the lowest or next to lowest setting. The hotspot truly is a blinding white with the immediate corona a bit yellow as shown. However, the spill is actually a light magenta which the camera only shows as grey. I included a color swath that closely mimics what I actually see in the spill. Anybody else seeing this?





Close to actual spill color






Also, I know the light supposedly has a mineral glass lens with anti-reflective coating (per the website), so I reflected a 40w soft white desk lamp bulb off the lens. Surprisingly, it was a deep pink/magenta color while the smaller images (bouncing off the reflector?) are pure white. My two Quarks are supposed to have AR coatings on the inside surface, but only reflect a white/cool white image of the bulb. I'm wondering if the EA4 lens could have been installed backwards?






Anybody else see this type of reflection?
Thanks,


----------



## markr6

windsurf said:


> I'm wondering about the tint on my NW EA4. It's not a problem outdoors where of course it belongs, but indoors its odd.The following whitewall was about 18" away. The level was on the lowest or next to lowest setting. The hotspot truly is a blinding white with the immediate corona a bit yellow as shown. However, the spill is actually a light magenta which the camera only shows as grey. I included a color swath that closely mimics what I actually see in the spill. Anybody else seeing this?
> 
> 
> 
> Close to actual spill color
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I know the light supposedly has a mineral glass lens with anti-reflective coating (per the website), so I reflected a 40w soft white desk lamp bulb off the lens. Surprisingly, it was a deep pink/magenta color while the smaller images (bouncing off the reflector?) are pure white. My two Quarks are supposed to have AR coatings on the inside surface, but only reflect a white/cool white image of the bulb. I'm wondering if the EA4 lens could have been installed backwards?
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody else see this type of reflection?Thanks,


Yes I see the magenta. A way to really notice it is to separate them by shining the beam thru a doorway into another room and looking at the spill on the wall next to the doorway. I wondered about the coating as well. My newest LD22 has this pink color on the lens and the overall tint is very purplish. Are they related? I don't know.


----------



## edyshok

windsurf said:


> "To exit lockout mode, simply press the switch three times within one second." Obviously that's not how the light behaves.



To exit from lock out mode simply press and hold switch until it turns back again, usually takes like 5 sec on mine.


----------



## edyshok

windsurf said:


> Nitecore must have revised the 2 page manual somewhere along the way. Last sentence of the 2nd para under "Standy Mode/Lockout" in mine states, "To exit lockout mode, simply press the switch three times within one second." Obviously that's not how the light behaves.



Just hold the switch for couple seconds, that all


----------



## windsurf

edyshok said:


> Just hold the switch for couple seconds, that all



I know-see my post #208. My response in #242 to markr6 was confirming that *some* manuals (mine included) did print the 3 quick press instructions which is obviously wrong. My EA4 takes a 2 sec press to unlock.


----------



## tickled

windsurf said:


> Since my Xeno NW E03's are supposed to be XM-L 3C (5000K to slightly warmer), I'd have to say my EA4 is 5000K to slightly cooler.


 Thanks for the feedback. I may just have to pick one up to see for myself. ZL's loss for not getting the Q50 out faster.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Finally... it arrived!! This light is a amazing! (though still leaves one wanting a low as everyone knows). I just read the manual (mines has the press 3 times to get out of lockout too so it's the incorrect one). One thing i noticed is funny though. The voltage reading when one inserts batteries or when someone enters lockout. Upon entering either, the indicator light will blink in accordance to the current voltage. 4 blinks followed by a 1 second pause and then 2 blinks means you're at 4.2V -- fully charged according to the manual. Mines does this.... blinks 5 times then 1 second pause and then 1 blink... I guess all four of my eneloops give a charger of 5.1V? LOL Anyone else test the voltage reading thing?

On a side note, i just compared this light to my LD41. Totally outclassed in throw and flood (but beaten in the low mode obviously). BTW, even though EA4 and LD41 are spec'd at a 40mm head, it is untrue for the latter. Eyeballing it, i'd say the nitecore is definitely larger. To confirm this, i just to a ruler to both of them. Apparently Fenix was fibbing. The head diameter is, by my old yellow 30cm ruler for elementary (yes i still have it), the ld41 is 38.75mm and the ea4 is 40mm on the dot. Not only is the reflector wider in the ea4, but the depth is greater too. Look at my two pics. Both lights were lined up according to the glass lens (eyeballing it), not by the edge of the bezels.

First pic shows how the ea4 is larger in diameter.





Second shows how the ea4 is deeper (at same angle, see how the xm-l of th ld41 can be seen, but not the ea4s yet?


----------



## GordoJones88

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> I guess all four of my eneloops give a charge of 5.1V?



Nimh come off the charger at 1.4v
4 x 1.4v = 5.6v

Those are some nice reflector pics!
Now show a pic standing side by side.


----------



## Yourfun2

windsurf said:


> I'm wondering about the tint on my NW EA4. It's not a problem outdoors where of course it belongs, but indoors its odd.
> 
> The following whitewall was about 18" away. The level was on the lowest or next to lowest setting. The hotspot truly is a blinding white with the immediate corona a bit yellow as shown. However, the spill is actually a light magenta which the camera only shows as grey. I included a color swath that closely mimics what I actually see in the spill. Anybody else seeing this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close to actual spill color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I know the light supposedly has a mineral glass lens with anti-reflective coating (per the website), so I reflected a 40w soft white desk lamp bulb off the lens. Surprisingly, it was a deep pink/magenta color while the smaller images (bouncing off the reflector?) are pure white. My two Quarks are supposed to have AR coatings on the inside surface, but only reflect a white/cool white image of the bulb. I'm wondering if the EA4 lens could have been installed backwards?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody else see this type of reflection?
> Thanks,



How did you darken the bezel?


----------



## roadkill1109

So among you guys who already own this light, would you recommend it or not? I plan to get this and the EC25


----------



## GordoJones88

roadkill1109 said:


> So among you guys who already own this light, would you recommend it or not? I plan to get this and the EC25



I bought the Nitecore EA4 and the new Eagletac TX25C2, 
which is like the Nitecore EC25 except it's better looking, smaller, and has more throw. :thumbsup:


----------



## Matjazz

I'm sure that anti reflexive coating on the lens doesn't affect the tint of a light that passes through it. AR coating is there to minimize reflection thus increasing transparency. Apparently it's note equally effective across the specter and some purple light still bounces back.
You can see the same effect on camera lenses and quality eye glasses.

The difference in tint of hotspot, corona and spill is because XM-L tint isn't consistent at different angles. At center is purple(ish) and at bigger angles it's more green-ish. So the light that's reflected of reflector and makes hotspot is green(ish) while the spill is purple(ish)


----------



## Kokopelli

There are AR coated lenses and AR coated lenses. Some of my Fenix lights, like TK35 was said to have AR coated, hardened glass lens but it doesn't make much colorful reflections either. My TK41 has a more blueish tinted reflections. Some cheaper AR coated lights I had had a definitive purple reflection but I couldn't see much "anti reflective" properties in those lights, so I guess the layers of coating on the AR lenses are important somewhat. 

The best AR coated lenses I've seen so far were from EagleTac lights. I love their almost "no-glass" looks. They definitely were more transparent.

I hope to get mine at my hands at the end of today.


----------



## biglights

GordoJones88 said:


> I bought the Nitecore EA4 and the new Eagletac TX25C2,
> which is like the Nitecore EC25 except it's better looking, smaller, and has more throw. :thumbsup:



Yeah this one looks nice!


----------



## jmpaul320

roadkill1109 said:


> So among you guys who already own this light, would you recommend it or not? I plan to get this and the EC25




I would get it. $59 at illumination supply. Its like a mini tiny monster.... or teeny tiny monster lol

I have no magenta traces in my spill. Tint is great on my neutral t6 3c model


----------



## biglights

roadkill1109 said:


> So among you guys who already own this light, would you recommend it or not? I plan to get this and the EC25



Yes I would get it also. I have the CW version and have zero issues with mine. Great little light!


----------



## markr6

Get it! Around $60 is a steal. The Neutral White is just amazing and the reason I will be replacing most or all of my cool whites in the near future.


----------



## Ezeriel

Can anyone compare this to the Fenix E40 for throw?

I'm still trying to get my head around the numbers....


----------



## Kokopelli

I had mine this afternoon. It is way smaller than I thought. The AR coated lens ls beautiful and the coating seems to do its job well. Man it is bright! For an AA light this small.


----------



## violatorjf

roadkill1109 said:


> So among you guys who already own this light, would you recommend it or not? I plan to get this and the EC25



Yes I'd recommend! I have the cool white version. In fact I think I'm going to pop on the neutral white version after I've witnessed Mark's reaction to his new light...

THANKS MARK


----------



## violatorjf

jmpaul320 said:


> I would get it. $59 at illumination supply. Its like a mini tiny monster.... or teeny tiny monster lol
> 
> I have no magenta traces in my spill. Tint is great on my neutral t6 3c model



Did you have a discount code to get the $59 price? I see they're $69 now.


----------



## markr6

violatorjf said:


> Yes I'd recommend! I have the cool white version. In fact I think I'm going to pop on the neutral white version after I've witnessed Mark's reaction to his new light...THANKS MARK


LOL! We'll, I'm toying around with the idea of getting the cool white version, just to see the difference. Never had $70 impulse buys 'til I got on CPF


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

violatorjf said:


> Yes I'd recommend! I have the cool white version. In fact I think I'm going to pop on the neutral white version after I've witnessed Mark's reaction to his new light...
> 
> THANKS MARK



Any beamshots comparing the cool white and neutral white versions? I just hope the cool white isn't BLUE.


----------



## Kokopelli

No not blue at all.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

Kokopelli said:


> No not blue at all.



Thanks


----------



## Wtlj

The coupon code on illumination supply is EA4 and it comes out to $59.46 shipped.


----------



## Kokopelli

Let me ask something different. These cool tinted lights are U2 binned and bright. I have some T6 NW lights those are bright as well. I liked this light so much that I can buy another one, with NW tint maybe. But, XML2 was introduced lately and I promised myself not to buy another XML (1st gen) light any more. 

What would you do? Buy the NW too or wait for the brighter XML2 in an even advanced version?


----------



## windsurf

_Yourfun2: How did you darken the bezel?_

Sorry, no mods were made! The SS bezel doesn't reflect all that well. Also, the bright lens reflection caused the camera to stop down the exposure.


----------



## GordoJones88

Kokopelli said:


> Let me ask something different. These cool tinted lights are U2 binned and bright. But, XML2 was introduced lately and I promised myself not to buy another XML (1st gen) light any more.
> What would you do? Buy the NW too or wait for the brighter XML2 in an even advanced version?



The XM-L2 T6 is essentially an XM-L U3.
Since the EA4 is an XMLU2, there is not going to be a big difference.
There is currently no reason to suspect they would even offer it.
When XML2T6 lights finally do come out, everybody will be drooling over the XML2U2.

Maybe don't buy any XMLT6 cool white lights should be your standing rule.


----------



## Kokopelli

GordoJones88 said:


> The XM-L2 T6 is essentially an XM-L U3.
> Since the EA4 is an XMLU2, there is not going to be a big difference.
> There is currently no reason to suspect they would even offer it.
> When XML2T6 lights finally do come out, everybody will be drooling over the XML2U2.
> 
> Maybe don't buy any XMLT6 cool white lights should be your standing rule.



Sounds so true. Thanks for your reply. It isn't something like throwier XPG2 vs XPG anyway. Cool U2 and U3s had good tints for me lately.


----------



## violatorjf

markr6 said:


> LOL! We'll, I'm toying around with the idea of getting the cool white version, just to see the difference. Never had $70 impulse buys 'til I got on CPF



I just stopped toying around and popped on the NW for $59. I mean, how can one resist? And I agree, before here it would've taken me weeks, if not months, to ever get a $70 ($59) light. 



Wtlj said:


> The coupon code on illumination supply is EA4 and it comes out to $59.46 shipped.



Thanks sir! That's so awesome...$13.09 discount, now that's what I'm talking about - a NW is on it's way...



ThirstyTurtle said:


> Any beamshots comparing the cool white and neutral white versions? I just hope the cool white isn't BLUE.



As kokopelli said, not blue at all. When the NW version arrives I will take some beamshots to compare. (if someone doesn't beat me to it)


----------



## Wtlj

violatorjf said:


> I just stopped toying around and popped on the NW for $59. I mean, how can one resist? And I agree, before here it would've taken me weeks, if not months, to ever get a $70 ($59) light.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks sir! That's so awesome...$13.09 discount, now that's what I'm talking about - a NW is on it's way...
> 
> No problem. My NW will be here Thursday and your making me want to buy another one. Why do you want one of each tint though? I think I might sell my brand new fenix TK41!


----------



## violatorjf

Wtlj said:


> Why do you want one of each tint though? I think I might sell my brand new fenix TK41!



Umm...plead the 5th? 

If you insist on bringing logic into this discussion, then no, I certainly don't need the NW version. I may just keep the one I like more? And either gift or sell the other. Or keep them both.


----------



## Wtlj

violatorjf said:


> Umm...plead the 5th?
> 
> If you insist on bringing logic into this discussion, then no, I certainly don't need the NW version. I may just keep the one I like more? And either gift or sell the other. Or keep them both.



Haha that's awesome! I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing out on anything! Can you let me know how they compare when you have both? Please, please, please


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

I REALLY want to see a real review of this thing, preferably with some beamshots and such. This is the first light I've bought without reading extensively and thinking about it. I just saw the specs and the price and clicked "buy" haha.


----------



## Yourfun2

Yep, I caved too. Had Craig set one aside for me. Initial reports are good, so what's a guy to do. It is Christmas anyway, might as well ge what you want.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

This light, the Nitecore EA4 is about the same diameter as the Fenix TK35, and has about the same size/diameter reflector, with the same LED, and the same brightness specs, so does it have a similar beam quality and throw/flood characteristics as the TK35?
If so, I'd be really tempted, because its only about half the price of the TK35, and I already have plenty of extra Eneloops, so I wouldnt have to buy more 18650's, so it would be a whole lot cheaper to get going than the TK35, and the TK35 has a great beam and nice throw too, so......


----------



## GordoJones88

HighlanderNorth said:


> This light, the Nitecore EA4 is about the same diameter as the Fenix TK35, and has about the same size/diameter reflector, with the same LED, and the same brightness specs, so does it have a similar beam quality and throw/flood characteristics as the TK35?
> If so, I'd be really tempted, because its only about half the price of the TK35, and I already have plenty of extra Eneloops, so I wouldnt have to buy more 18650's, so it would be a whole lot cheaper to get going than the TK35, and the TK35 has a great beam and nice throw too, so......



The EA4 is smaller, brighter, and cheaper than the TK35.

TK35: 256g 162mm x 52mm 

EA4: 159g 117mm x 41mm


----------



## roadkill1109

GordoJones88 said:


> I bought the Nitecore EA4 and the new Eagletac TX25C2,
> which is like the Nitecore EC25 except it's better looking, smaller, and has more throw. :thumbsup:



you had me at "more throw" heheh


----------



## Kokopelli

Correct me if I'm wrong, I haven't compared them side by side, but EA4 looks like it has a smoother and tighter beam than TK35. My TK35 has a green T6 led I think.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

I've been playing with this thing a lot and i just noticed something -- a rattle. Though it's not that loud, if you shake the EA4 you should hear a rattle. I assumed this was the batteries rattling in the body, but it is NOT. I removed all 4 batteries and shook it lightly and i still heard the rattling sound. It sounds like it's coming from the head / button.

Has anyone else noticed this? Try shaking the light a little. I'm curious if mines is a defective light or if they all are like this. hmmmm :sigh:


----------



## Kokopelli

Mine doesn't make any sound. Can it be the floating tailcap plate? It securely meets with the body tube in my sample but it looks like it can get loose easily.


----------



## PCS

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Has anyone else noticed this? Try shaking the light a little. I'm curious if mines is a defective light or if they all are like this. hmmmm :sigh:


Mine rattles a bit. It's definitely coming from the head, and I only hear it when I shake the light near my ear.


----------



## ericb445

Yep, From the head.
I thought it was a loose lens/reflector but they are tight.


----------



## roadkill1109

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> I've been playing with this thing a lot and i just noticed something -- a rattle. Though it's not that loud, if you shake the EA4 you should hear a rattle. I assumed this was the batteries rattling in the body, but it is NOT. I removed all 4 batteries and shook it lightly and i still heard the rattling sound. It sounds like it's coming from the head / button.
> 
> Has anyone else noticed this? Try shaking the light a little. I'm curious if mines is a defective light or if they all are like this. hmmmm :sigh:



try holding down the button then shake it, could be the slack between the button and the switch underneath it so there's a little play causing it to make noise. Maybe no cause of concern, looks pretty solid.


----------



## Sysmax Ind.

Hello man,

Glad to know you like EA4. And something need to clear here:

1. "The rattle": It is not defective. The "rattle" comes from the switch, it is normal as the switch design does get that "rattle" sound. If you lightly hold the button and shake the light, you can not hear it any longer. No worries!

2. Exiting lockout mode: The correct way to exit lockout mode would be hold the button fully down for more than 1 second. We made a mistake in the users' manual before. Now we have already corrected it. Very sorry for misleading you if you got confused in exiting lockout.

Hope everyone can enjoy the lights. Thank you.


----------



## Kokopelli

Hi Sysmax,

Since you are here, I must say I loved the light at the first sight. It is small and bright, yet it has a pleasant cool white tint, at least in my sample. I always wanted a light without battery holders as they are really difficult to put in or pull out the batteries or drop and break. I decided to buy a second one at first, but then I stopped. 

The light has no proper LOW modes. I mean, OK, it has a good, usable LOW but nowhere as low as I am used to on my other lights. I can understand a searchlight to have a few medium modes and I don't ask for a firefly mode on a searchlight, but come on, this is just a tiny, lovely light that you can easily every day carry. 

I shall be waiting for a revised version, especially mode-wise, and maybe with an improved lock-out exit style, other than easily done 1 sec long press.

Other than these, this is a great little light, with a very good size and throw. I almost don't feel that "li-ion is a must for reduced size" motto I had any more.


----------



## Matjazz

I'm also surprised to see the how easy it is to exit lockout mode on the "camera switch" flashlights. A second long press could easily happen in pocket, pouch or backpack. OTOH I'm quite content with three click lockout exit on TM11.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

Kokopelli said:


> Hi Sysmax,
> 
> Since you are here, I must say I loved the light at the first sight. It is small and bright, yet it has a pleasant cool white tint, at least in my sample. I always wanted a light without battery holders as they are really difficult to put in or pull out the batteries or drop and break. I decided to buy a second one at first, but then I stopped.
> 
> The light has no proper LOW modes. I mean, OK, it has a good, usable LOW but nowhere as low as I am used to on my other lights. I can understand a searchlight to have a few medium modes and I don't ask for a firefly mode on a searchlight, but come on, this is just a tiny, lovely light that you can easily every day carry.
> 
> I shall be waiting for a revised version, especially mode-wise, and maybe with an improved lock-out exit style, other than easily done 1 sec long press.
> 
> Other than these, this is a great little light, with a very good size and throw. I almost don't feel that "li-ion is a must for reduced size" motto I had any more.



I don't have my light yet but I must echo the thoughts of others: 65 lumens is too high of a high. I would love to see <10 as the "micro" with 3 or 4 well-spaced levels in between micro and Turbo. Just a thought maybe you all will tweak the next version. Regardless, I've ordered my light and CANNOT wait to get it. I haven't yet been THIS excited about a light


----------



## Sarlix

Sysmax Ind. said:


> Hello man,



Wow, Sysmax have really let their hair down :laughing:



ThirstyTurtle said:


> I REALLY want to see a real review of this thing, preferably with some beamshots and such. This is the first light I've bought without reading extensively and thinking about it. I just saw the specs and the price and clicked "buy" haha.



Well check out this review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbFF1kf7OoA it's in German but it doesn't really matter. They do an outdoor comparison of Olight S20, Fenix PD32UE, Nitecore EC25, *Nitecore EA4 CW and NW*, Eagletac G25C2 sowie Eagletac GX25 - the EA4 really kicks ***!

All you yanks are lucky to get this thing for 60 bucks _plus_ a 13 dollar discount!! Costs £60 ($97) in the UK - no discount here!


P.S Sysmax, you really need to put a lower low on this thing! 65lm = too high!


----------



## cccpull

This is a great little light. All the nitpicking reminds me of this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybDKfGEw4aU


----------



## violatorjf

HighlanderNorth said:


> This light, the Nitecore EA4 is about the same diameter as the Fenix TK35, and has about the same size/diameter reflector, with the same LED, and the same brightness specs, so does it have a similar beam quality and throw/flood characteristics as the TK35?
> If so, I'd be really tempted, because its only about half the price of the TK35, and I already have plenty of extra Eneloops, so I wouldnt have to buy more 18650's, so it would be a whole lot cheaper to get going than the TK35, and the TK35 has a great beam and nice throw too, so......



I don't have a TK35 but I found a pic online so I will compare it to a pic of the EA4 in my hand - see below...












The entire EA4 is about the size of just the battery compartment on the TK35 and it appears that the head of the TK35 is wider than the EA4 body. As gordo said, it is smaller, brighter and cheaper. In no way am I saying the TK35 isn't a nice light, because I think it is - but owning an EA4 makes it awfully hard to justify getting the TK35.

Also since the EA4 has a side mounted switch and not a tailcap, you're more likely to be holding it like this in your hand than in the previous pic...






I can say with confidence that if it had 1) better low modes and 2) the rapid-click to exit lockout instead of the long press, that I would call it the 'perfect light' - at least for me. As for now it's pretty darn close and I am very, very, VERY happy with it for a price tag of $59.


----------



## markr6

Sarlix said:


> Wow, Sysmax have really let their hair down :laughing:


I chuckled at first, but then realized their Engligh is better than my Mandarin.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

Sarlix said:


> Wow, Sysmax have really let their hair down :laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> Well check out this review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbFF1kf7OoA it's in German but it doesn't really matter. They do an outdoor comparison of Olight S20, Fenix PD32UE, Nitecore EC25, *Nitecore EA4 CW and NW*, Eagletac G25C2 sowie Eagletac GX25 - the EA4 really kicks ***!
> 
> All you yanks are lucky to get this thing for 60 bucks _plus_ a 13 dollar discount!! Costs £60 ($97) in the UK - no discount here!
> 
> 
> P.S Sysmax, you really need to put a lower low on this thing! 65lm = too high!



Thanks for the video! I've been searching to find a comparison between the tints of the cool white and neutral white and that video shows it quite well. I'm very happy with my (accidental) purchase of the NW. I meant to buy the CW, accidentally got the NW, tried to fix it but it already shipped and now I prefer the NW, yay! Should have it by the end of the week (although I'll be out of town until _next _Friday, boo!)


----------



## markr6

ThirstyTurtle said:


> Thanks for the video! I've been searching to find a comparison between the tints of the cool white and neutral white and that video shows it quite well. I'm very happy with my (accidental) purchase of the NW. I meant to buy the CW, accidentally got the NW, tried to fix it but it already shipped and now I prefer the NW, yay! Should have it by the end of the week (although I'll be out of town until _next _Friday, boo!)


You're going to love the NW. It is now the standard on which I will base all my future purchases. It causes me to only see BLUE with all my other cool whites. Time to do some selling!


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

markr6 said:


> You're going to love the NW. It is now the standard on which I will base all my future purchases. It causes me to only see BLUE with all my other cool whites. Time to do some selling!



I'm psyched!

My only NW right now is my ZL SC51W which I quite like but I mostly got it because the regular version seemed very blue in all the pictures and comparisons I could find. I just recently got a custom P60 from vinhnguyen54 with a XM-L T5 neutral white and it's a bit cooler than the ZL but still neutral...and it is THE PERFECT tint in my opinion. If the EA4 is close to that I'll be PSYCHED out of my mind :0)


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Sysmax Ind. said:


> Hello man,
> 
> Glad to know you like EA4. And something need to clear here:
> 
> 1. "The rattle": It is not defective. The "rattle" comes from the switch, it is normal as the switch design does get that "rattle" sound. If you lightly hold the button and shake the light, you can not hear it any longer. No worries!
> 
> Hope everyone can enjoy the lights. Thank you.



I have tried to hold down the button lightly (and fully) and it still makes the rattle sound.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> I have tried to hold down the button lightly (and fully) and it still makes the rattle sound.



So to summarize, here are the current "complaints" about this light:

1) The "micro" low is not low enough
2) It is too easily "unlocked" in a pocket or holster by holding the button down completely for more than 1 second as opposed to the TM model's triple click unlock
3) Some mystery rattle from near the head (this has only been mentioned by a few and even then it seems you really have to listen for it; confirmed to not be battery rattle or switch rattle)

Anything else?


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Yes, there is another complaint:

4) It's very affordable and makes one want to also get a neutral to have both. hehehe.

Honestly though, even with the rattle i've noticed, it's still a nice light and i'd still recommend it to those looking for an AA light. I'm just nitpicking about the rattle


----------



## violatorjf

I can't seem to replicate the rattle. Just curious, I know those of you who hear a rattle say it sounds like it's coming from the head, but did you remove the batteries and see if it still rattles? Just want to rule out the obvious...


----------



## markr6

I can't make mine rattle. No complaints from me!


----------



## Yourfun2

A


Sarlix said:


> Wow, Sysmax have really let their hair down :laughing:
> 
> 
> 
> Well check out this review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbFF1kf7OoA it's in German but it doesn't really matter. They do an outdoor comparison of Olight S20, Fenix PD32UE, Nitecore EC25, *Nitecore EA4 CW and NW*, Eagletac G25C2 sowie Eagletac GX25 - the EA4 really kicks ***!
> 
> All you yanks are lucky to get this thing for 60 bucks _plus_ a 13 dollar discount!! Costs £60 ($97) in the UK - no discount here!
> 
> 
> P.S Sysmax, you really need to put a lower low on this thing! 65lm = too high!



I thought the GX25 was the one kicking butt. But then that is another story coming up on future thread. Just had 3 EA4w's layed away.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Yes, there is another complaint:
> 
> 4) It's very affordable and makes one want to also get a neutral to have both. hehehe.
> 
> Honestly though, even with the rattle i've noticed, it's still a nice light and i'd still recommend it to those looking for an AA light. I'm just nitpicking about the rattle



Haha, it is indeed super "cheap" for it's brand name and specs _especially_ with the coupon from Illumination Supply.

The rattle seems to be hit or miss and not everyone is getting it, just something to note. I think the biggest deal for me is the poor lockout "unlock" although I think it will be rare that it's carried in my pocket...but who knows!


----------



## windsurf

violatorjf said:


> I can't seem to replicate the rattle. Just curious, I know those of you who hear a rattle say it sounds like it's coming from the head, but did you remove the batteries and see if it still rattles? Just want to rule out the obvious...



As others have stated, seems to be unit dependent. Mine rattles with or w/o batteries. It still rattles whether a light press, half press or full press of the switch. Not a concern and wouldn't have noticed it without this thread.


----------



## PCS

windsurf said:


> As others have stated, seems to be unit dependent. Mine rattles with or w/o batteries. It still rattles whether a light press, half press or full press of the switch. Not a concern and wouldn't have noticed it without this thread.



My situation is the same on all counts: it rattles with or without batteries, while pressing on the switch or not, and I never would have noticed if it wasn't mentioned here.


----------



## markr6

Just a few random comments:

1. I can't believe anyone would pocket-carry this hoss! I complain about carrying an 8mm thick iPhone 5! LOL

2. The only negative thing about this light for me is that...well...I'M BORED NOW! I really don't know what else I want or need. This thing is just awesome! While I'm looking to go all neutral, I'm thinking about getting into 18650's and replacing my Zebralights with an H600Fw.

3. I was out running last night with my H51 and all was normal until I got back and compared it with my EA4 neutral in the back yard. Man, all this time I was thinking grass and moss was supposed to be purple! Definitely time for some more neutral action.


----------



## marcis

Does anyone know if Illumination Supply still has the neutral EA4 available ? I have called them, emailed them, and have heard nothing back. I am sure he is busy and I understand that, but it's a little frustrating not being able to get in touch with this company.

I have placed an order at battery junction, but I called them yesterday and they told me they are not expecting them until after christmas now... good thing they sent me an e-mail on Monday telling me it was estimated to arrive on the 19th....


----------



## Outrider

Does anyone know if Illumination Supply still has the neutral EA4 available ? 

I talked to him yesterday, said he had stock. I ordered 1 EA4 NW and got an email this AM saying it shipped today

Hope this helps.


----------



## Yourfun2

marcis said:


> Does anyone know if Illumination Supply still has the neutral EA4 available ? I have called them, emailed them, and have heard nothing back. I am sure he is busy and I understand that, but it's a little frustrating not being able to get in touch with this company.
> 
> I have placed an order at battery junction, but I called them yesterday and they told me they are not expecting them until after christmas now... good thing they sent me an e-mail on Monday telling me it was estimated to arrive on the 19th....


When you put it in your cart, it will say out of stock in your cart, if that is the case. He still had some yesterday. I'm pretty sure you will hear back before the day is out. Hope he checks his PM's cuz I had a few lights set aside for pick up.


----------



## Kokopelli

This is how they sit side by side, S65, Tk35 and EA4. 






TK 35 definitely has a bigger head. 






The low on TK35 is lower of course. 






Tk35 has a greener tint than EA4. EA4 on the right, TK35 on the left. Both should be at Turbo. 






EA4 on the left, S65 on the right, on max for both. S65 is green but can't be seen on these iPhone photos. 






S65 has a lower low of course.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

markr6 said:


> Just a few random comments:
> 1. I can't believe anyone would pocket-carry this hoss! I complain about carrying an 8mm thick iPhone 5! LOL



I have been and will continue to carry this hoss in my pocket like a boss.  It is a little heavy... but ah well.....


----------



## Kokopelli

The dim blue light in the switch makes it a good bedside light, but, but I may blind myself in the middle of the night, with that low


----------



## Sarlix

Kokopelli said:


> The dim blue light in the switch makes it a good bedside light, but, but I may blind myself in the middle of the night, with that low



So it has an always on beacon light like the rest of the Explorer series? Interesting..I can't see a mention of it on their website, only that it has a battery voltage indicator. I wonder what the parasitic drain on this thing is..


----------



## violatorjf

markr6 said:


> I can't believe anyone would pocket-carry this hoss! I complain about carrying an 8mm thick iPhone 5! LOL



I do EDC it but not in my front pockets - that would just be akward..."Is that a flashlight in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?"  When I wear carpenter or cargo style pants I carry it in the side pocket.



marcis said:


> I have placed an order at battery junction, but I called them yesterday and they told me they are not expecting them until after christmas now... good thing they sent me an e-mail on Monday telling me it was estimated to arrive on the 19th....



 WOW, that's horrible. They said their first delay was due to DHL being overwhelmed (or something like that). They lost a LOT of money, and potentially customers.



Sarlix said:


> So it has an always on beacon light like the rest of the Explorer series? Interesting..I can't see a mention of it on their website, only that it has a battery voltage indicator. I wonder what the parasitic drain on this thing is..



Yes, it has strobe - SOS - beacon, accessible in that order. When the light is turned on in any normal mode a quick double-click gets you to strobe. A long hold then takes you to SOS, and another long hold gets you to beacon. The user manual says there is next to no power draw when the light is in lockout mode, which is what I have it in the majority of the time. I don't know what it pulls outside of lockout...


----------



## phantom23

Kokopelli said:


> Tk35 has a greener tint than EA4. EA4 on the right, TK35 on the left. Both should be at Turbo.



So this little thing throws even better than TK35? Wow!


----------



## roadkill1109

phantom23 said:


> So this little thing throws even better than TK35? Wow!



Interesting, the old Tk35 was rated to 27k lux.


----------



## duro

GordoJones88 said:


> The XM-L2 T6 is essentially an XM-L U3.
> Since the EA4 is an XMLU2, there is not going to be a big difference.
> There is currently no reason to suspect they would even offer it.
> When XML2T6 lights finally do come out, everybody will be drooling over the XML2U2.
> 
> Maybe don't buy any XMLT6 cool white lights should be your standing rule.




I'm with you. I'm waiting to see the tint on an XML t6 neutral. This ea4 neutral is an XML t5, which I already have two lights with this LED....I'm not a fan. Hopefully they can start making XML neutrals look like XPG G2 neutrals. I wonder if T6 bin neutrals have this kind of tint?


----------



## dc38

dro said:


> I'm with you. I'm waiting to see the tint on an XML t6 neutral. This ea4 neutral is an XML t5, which I already have two lights with this LED....I'm not a fan. Hopefully they can start making XML neutrals look like XPG G2 neutrals. I wonder if T6 bin neutrals have this kind of tint?



Xeno e03 v2 NW is almost tint less in its NW. 
xeno e03 v2 WW is very yellow.
Tk41 is greenish yellow to greenish purple on low to high.
JB pc10 is lavender ish on turbo.
klarus st20 is bluish frosty white.
preon is a tint lottery, got 3 diff tints.

Now the Ea4 is a slightly noticeable super pale pomegranate spill, but the intense hotspot evens it out.
its a borderline red warm neutral, but imo still one of the better tints of neutral. Beam pattern wise, the ea4 made me notice the tk41's rings beam up close. My sample of the ea4 has a well centered led. Like other larger XML lights, there is a clover patterned donut, but is symmetrical since led is centered. No donuts are noticeable in real world usage. The NW xeno still has the purest most tint less NW I've ever seen, albeit clinically cold. I'm digging this EA4 lol!

p.s., the ea4 seems to render natural colors even better than the near perfectly neutral eo3...just putting that out there. Also, the spill color reminds me of the newer neutral nichia, slightly rosy pomegranate pinkish, but just a hint.


----------



## markr6

This battery meter is so cool! I read the manual but didn't really get what they were saying at first. I was getting 5 blinks then 1 (5.1V)...now 4 blinks then 8 = 4.8V since I ran it down a bit. I was thinking more of a ZL type with 4, 3, 2 or 1 blinks. WELL DONE NITECORE!


----------



## Wtlj

I just got my EA4W and its awesome. The battery meter is great, I put in brand new out of the package 2000 eneloops and it reads 5.2v. I have no rattle or noises coming from my light. 
The only light I have to compare it to is fenix TK41 which is also 860 lumens. I didn't realize how green my fenix was until I got the EA4W next to it. The light fits so perfectly in the hand and it feels so solid! Also the neoprene wrist band is going to be great while hunting. I'm so happy I think I'm going to purchase 2 more for my father and father in law.


----------



## RBH

Would the cool throw a lot better than the neutral ? How bad would it out preform my G5 Maelstrom ?


----------



## dc38

RBH said:


> Would the cool throw a lot better than the neutral ? How bad would it out preform my G5 Maelstrom ?



Cool would be more intense, as presumably there are fewer phosphors absorbing light. As for the g5, can't say as I don't have one. But the neutral ea4 doesn't outgun a tk41, although the tint is much more appealing to my eyes


----------



## dc38

Wtlj said:


> I just got my EA4W and its awesome. The battery meter is great, I put in brand new out of the package 2000 eneloops and it reads 5.2v. I have no rattle or noises coming from my light.
> The only light I have to compare it to is fenix TK41 which is also 860 lumens. I didn't realize how green my fenix was until I got the EA4W next to it. The light fits so perfectly in the hand and it feels so solid! Also the neoprene wrist band is going to be great while hunting. I'm so happy I think I'm going to purchase 2 more for my father and father in law.



Nice! Mine has a bit of rattling if I shake it, but not much in normal usage. I do notice a tiny gap between the bezel and body though...maybe the reflector is bouncing around?


----------



## RBH

How far behind the tk41 would you say ? 

Thanks Bruce



dc38 said:


> Cool would be more intense, as presumably there are fewer phosphors absorbing light. As for the g5, can't say as I don't have one. But the neutral ea4 doesn't outgun a tk41, although the tint is much more appealing to my eyes


----------



## Wtlj

dc38 said:


> Nice! Mine has a bit of rattling if I shake it, but not much in normal usage. I do notice a tiny gap between the bezel and body though...maybe the reflector is bouncing around?



My body to bezel orientation is the same. Don't believe that's an issue.


----------



## dc38

RBH said:


> How far behind the tk41 would you say ?
> 
> Thanks Bruce



During a ceiling bounce, they are ALMOST the same brightness. White wall hunting, the tk41 has a much more intense hotspot, given the bigger and deeper reflector. Throw wise, the EA4 throws about 2/3 to 3/4 as well as the tk41 outdoors...the tk41 renders foliage and bluish green things are rendered much more richly, but the reds and warms suffer from greenish distortion. The NW EA4 renders colors very well to my eyes, even better than the colorless pure NW of a xeno eo3!

if you want a cross between a thrower and a pocket rocket wall of light, this may very well be it. I'm loving mine so far for the whole 3 hours I've had it.


----------



## dc38

Wtlj said:


> My body to bezel orientation is the same. Don't believe that's an issue.


I was thinking the same after shaking mine some more...my girlfriend gave me a wtf are you doing look lol


----------



## RBH

Thanks a lot .



dc38 said:


> During a ceiling bounce, they are ALMOST the same brightness. White wall hunting, the tk41 has a much more intense hotspot, given the bigger and deeper reflector. Throw wise, the EA4 throws about 2/3 to 3/4 as well as the tk41 outdoors...the tk41 renders foliage and bluish green things are rendered much more richly, but the reds and warms suffer from greenish distortion. The NW EA4 renders colors very well to my eyes, even better than the colorless pure NW of a xeno eo3!
> 
> if you want a cross between a thrower and a pocket rocket wall of light, this may very well be it. I'm loving mine so far for the whole 3 hours I've had it.


----------



## dc38

RBH said:


> Thanks a lot .


Also, when running either light in turbo, the levels seem to step down after 3 min as stated in the manuals. Just note that the EA4 gets MUCH warmer more quickly than the tk41. The ea4 is like a sleeper car, catch people off guard with the sheer output. However, this applies: just because you can / have it, does not mean you should (all the time). I am tempted to wrap an ice pack string around the head to dissipate heat...but it doesn't really get all that hot.


----------



## Wtlj

dc38 said:


> I was thinking the same after shaking mine some more...my girlfriend gave me a wtf are you doing look lol



Haha, I showed my wife your post and she laughed only because she thinks we're nuts!


----------



## RBH

How much less bright does it seem when it steps down ? 



dc38 said:


> Also, when running either light in turbo, the levels seem to step down after 3 min as stated in the manuals. Just note that the EA4 gets MUCH warmer more quickly than the tk41. The ea4 is like a sleeper car, catch people off guard with the sheer output. However, this applies: just because you can / have it, does not mean you should (all the time). I am tempted to wrap an ice pack string around the head to dissipate heat...but it doesn't really get all that hot.


----------



## Dragon8oy

Kokopelli said:


> This is how they sit side by side, S65, Tk35 and EA4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TK 35 definitely has a bigger head.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The low on TK35 is lower of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tk35 has a greener tint than EA4. EA4 on the right, TK35 on the left. Both should be at Turbo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EA4 on the left, S65 on the right, on max for both. S65 is green but can't be seen on these iPhone photos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> S65 has a lower low of course.



Hi

How does the EA4 compare to the TK35?


----------



## GordoJones88

Guys, stop shaking your flashlight so much, it can make you go blind.


----------



## dc38

Wtlj said:


> Haha, I showed my wife your post and she laughed only because she thinks we're nuts!


We're not nuts, we're "enlightened". We can see where others cannot, we pave a path of light upon which others may not stumble. We share our enlightenment for the greater good of this world. Ok, so we . . . May be just a bit nuts, but its a good kind of nuts. I'm sure your wife was at LEAST a little impressed at the huge output from such a relatively small light...


----------



## dc38

RBH said:


> How much less bright does it seem when it steps down ?


Well, the brightness is very subjective to what we each interpret as % of output...do you have a light in mind as a frame of reference? Going by specs alone, the step down drops about 35% of the turbo.. With the tk41, it seems to stabilize around 600 lumens.


----------



## dc38

GordoJones88 said:


> Guys, stop shaking your flashlight so much, it can make you go blind.


Ahem...it only depends on how much gets in your eyes while you shake it


----------



## Kokopelli

phantom23 said:


> So this little thing throws even better than TK35? Wow!



Well, TK35 has a more definitive hotspot with hard edges and an hollow center. EA4 has a better beam with smoother edges around the hotspot. EA4 seemed brighter.


----------



## RBH

My G5 does 12000 lux continuous with no heat problems. 



dc38 said:


> Well, the brightness is very subjective to what we each interpret as % of output...do you have a light in mind as a frame of reference? Going by specs alone, the step down drops about 35% of the turbo.. With the tk41, it seems to stabilize around 600 lumens.


----------



## tickled

phantom23 said:


> So this little thing throws even better than TK35? Wow!


 LD41: 200m, 10 000cd
EA4: 283m, 20 000cd
TK35: 340m, 29 000cd
TK41: 486m, 59 000cd

Going by ANSI specs alone, it seems like it fits right in between the LD41 and TK35.


----------



## phantom23

*Kokopelli*'s pictures says otherwise - EA4 looks noticeably throwier than TK35.


----------



## RBH

If 20000 CD = 20000 LUX, then the figure selfbuilt gives the TK35 is 22500 LUX, which would put the EA4 roughly on par with it.


----------



## markr6

Why is the second highest level not mentioned in the specs? We have the 4 low modes, then turbo but when you soft click in turbo it knocks it down a bit to ?? lumnes.


----------



## dc38

markr6 said:


> Why is the second highest level not mentioned in the specs? We have the 4 low modes, then turbo but when you soft click in turbo it knocks it down a bit to ?? lumnes.



it flips between high and turbo, the same brightness as the highest of the 4 low modes


----------



## markr6

dc38 said:


> it flips between high and turbo, the same brightness as the highest of the 4 low modes


DUH!! I'm braindead right now. I guess it just didn't seem much lower so assumed it was a "secret" mini-turbo level (of gosh let's not give manufacturers another name for brightness levels  )


----------



## mets1p

Ordered one on Monday AM from Illumination Supply and it was shipped that afternoon and should have it tomorrow. Thank you to the good folks at IS for the discounted price and free shipping. After reading all the posts here I'm looking forward to getting mine and lighting up the backyard and neighborhood Friday evening !!


----------



## GordoJones88

I am the ONLY one who put an unopened EA4 under the Christmas tree?


----------



## dc38

GordoJones88 said:


> I am the ONLY one who put an unopened EA4 under the Christmas tree?


you should be proud! youre obviously the only one with enough self control...the rest of us are just gonna get depleted alkys for christmas because weve been bad, and coal is too expensive for santa these days


----------



## Wtlj

GordoJones88 said:


> I am the ONLY one who put an unopened EA4 under the Christmas tree?



I have a wrapped up zebralight H51FW under the tree and its killing me. 1st zebralight.


----------



## Scubie67

Looks like Zebralight Q50 postponement will have some negatives hits for them


----------



## phantom23

RBH said:


> If 20000 CD = 20000 LUX, then the figure selfbuilt gives the TK35 is 22500 LUX, which would put the EA4 roughly on par with it.


I wouldn't be suprised it was more than that. Nitecore numbers are underestimated (at least they were for Explorer series, MH25 or MT25).


----------



## Streamer

Wtlj said:


> I have a wrapped up zebralight H51FW under the tree and its killing me. 1st zebralight.



LOL..who wrapped it? LOL even more.


----------



## GordoJones88

Streamer said:


> LOL..who wrapped it? LOL even more.



Santa Claus of course.


----------



## Palaeoboy

I wrote to Nitecore (Sysmax) to ask if a diffuser was on the cards as it would make this light the perfect camping lantern and they replied with yes one will be available eventually for this light. Good news all round.


----------



## markr6

Palaeoboy said:


> I wrote to Nitecore (Sysmax) to ask if a diffuser was on the cards as it would make this light the perfect camping lantern and they replied with yes one will be available eventually for this light. Good news all round.



YES! I just finished a bottle of contact solution last night, so I threw that on there just for fun. Way too thick to diffuse light efficiently, but gave me an idea of how sweet this this will be as a lantern.


----------



## GordoJones88

Ima put a lamp shade on mine.


----------



## dc38

GordoJones88 said:


> Ima put a lamp shade on mine.


i use a styrofoam cup lol...modified to fit of course


----------



## READYSETGO

GordoJones88 said:


> I am the ONLY one who put an unopened EA4 under the Christmas tree?



NO! There is a wrapped, unopened, unpeaked, unplayed with EA4 under our tree. You are not the only one in torment and anticiapation.



The tag reads "TO: Carol FROM: Your favorite Son In Law. (I hope she enjoys the new toy I gave her.)


----------



## Yourfun2

Well, I'm picking mine up tomorrow and I sure ain't gonna to put it under no stinkin tree.


----------



## dc38

Yourfun2 said:


> Well, I'm picking mine up tomorrow and I sure ain't gonna to put it under no stinkin tree.


You're gonna place it at the TOP of the stinkin tree instead of a star, right?


----------



## Yourfun2

Right!


----------



## dc38

Yourfun2 said:


> Right!


For all you folks wondering exactly how big this light is, here's a universal frame of reference. It fits snugly into a toilet paper roll. Perfect match height wise too... Don't ask lol


----------



## GordoJones88

dc38 said:


> For all you folks wondering exactly how big this light is, here's a universal frame of reference. It fits snugly into a toilet paper roll. Perfect match height wise too... Don't ask lol



Pics or it didn't happen!


----------



## Timothybil

I've been following this thread and the one about the Nitecore EC25, waiting like a lot of us for selfbuilt's marvelous reviews. I just went over to Surefire.com, because I like to drop in once in a while and see what's new there. I started this whole fun ride with a G2, which now has an MSRP of $59USD. That is so far from the E4 (and the EC25) as to be ridiculous. As my son says, "Back in the day." How far we have come that we can purchase a minature spotlight like the E4 and its competitors for no more that we would pay for a SF G2! Isn't progress amazing!


----------



## Yourfun2

Someday we will be able to tell our flashlights what time we want it to wake us up with the strobe. Even then the 2 mode Surefire will cost over twice as much.


----------



## Up All Night

dc38 said:


> For all you folks wondering exactly how big this light is, here's a universal frame of reference. It fits snugly into a toilet paper roll. Perfect match height wise too... Don't ask lol



I won't ask........but thanks for quite possibly the best three dimensional reference for size of light I've heard yet!:thumbsup:


----------



## HighlanderNorth

dc38 said:


> you should be proud! youre obviously the only one with enough self control...the rest of us are just gonna get depleted alkys for christmas because weve been bad, and coal is too expensive for santa these days




Well, the days of Santa giving lumps of coal to bad kids are over, and now with the worries of carbon dioxide/monoxide emissions, Santa now leaves small canisters of natural gas for the bad kids instead.....

I am surprise/glad to hear that the EA4 has somewhat equal throw and brightness to the TK35, which is what I expected when I saw that the EA4 has almost the same diameter reflector, which may be deeper as well, combined with the same brightness compared to the newer U2 version of the TK35. Thats great considering it is about half the price! I asked for a few Visa and Amazon gift cards as Christmas presents, and now I have an idea what I'll be spending some of that money on....

How do the run times on turbo compare between the TK35 and EA4?


----------



## HighlanderNorth

For those who already received theirs, how durable does the EA4's switch feel? Any issues with it requiring multiple clicks to get it to switch on or anything? Does it feel like it will last a long time and not break?


----------



## Yourfun2

Haven't seen any negative reports on EA4 or the TM11/TM15 which feel solid to me.


----------



## dc38

GordoJones88 said:


> Pics or it didn't happen!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdkr38/8293670956/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdkr38/8293672762/it happened


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

HighlanderNorth said:


> For those who already received theirs, how durable does the EA4's switch feel? Any issues with it requiring multiple clicks to get it to switch on or anything? Does it feel like it will last a long time and not break?



On my sample, it feels pretty sturdy. If i had to say, it feels more like a hard plastic than the soft rubber tailcap of my fenix / quark / itp etc... I don't need to do multiple clicks to get the light on. Once you get used to how much to press for a half click and how much for full click, you should have no problems. Also, i don't think it was yet mentioned in this thread, but as an fyi for those wondering, when one brings the light out of lockout, it goes straight to the second lowest mode of 135 lumens, not the lowest mode of 65 lumens regardless of what mode the light was in prior to going into lockout. Hope that doesn't sound confusing.


----------



## Up All Night

dc38 said:


> http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdkr38/8293670956/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdkr38/8293672762/it happened



Ooooh!......and there it is!:bow: .........He speaks the truth Gordo!!


----------



## GordoJones88

Note: Not an EA4, but a toilet paper tube.


----------



## Kokopelli

HighlanderNorth said:


> For those who already received theirs, how durable does the EA4's switch feel? Any issues with it requiring multiple clicks to get it to switch on or anything? Does it feel like it will last a long time and not break?



It feels much more durable than my Fenix TK41s soft buttons.


----------



## Arc88

Greetings all:

This is my first time posting on this forum, although this forum is no stranger to me as I have benefited in the past from reviews of various lights by many forum members whose knowledge and generosity in sharing their insights have impressed me. In fact, I bought the EA4 due to reviews in this thread.

I am glad to support Nitecore again with this purchase (having bought a couple of their lights in the past). The company strikes me as innovative and bold, so that deserves support. Moreover, they seem to take corporate social responsibility seriously. For example, the company describes on its website its donation of high-end flashlights to the police department and first responders of a town in CT for search and rescue missions necessitated by super storm Sandy. I think that is commendable and also deserving of support.

I have had my cool white EA4 for a few days now and think it is tremendous. The workmanship and anodizing seem excellent (although I will discuss the rattle in a moment), the output and throw are outstanding for a light of this size, and the overall appearance strikes me as elegant.

The CW tint on mine is almost pure white, although the spill on a white wall can give a slight hint of bluish purple when contrasted with a warmer tint (such as the one from my old Nitecore Extreme with the Q5 LED). This is not an issue in actual use, and overall I think that the tint is very pleasant to the eye. On a related note, as one member noted, the lens on the EA4, when looked at from an angle under lighting, does show a purplish hue, but I've observed a similar hue on the lens of many quality cameras and binoculars, so I am not sure that the hue itself is cause for concern (or indicative of the lens having been installed backwards). The hue seems to simply be a result of the AR coating.

There seems to be a slight clover-like artifact in the hotspot (as another member had mentioned) when projected on a wall a short distance away while the light is in the lowest mode. However, at the two highest modes the artifact seems to disappear, or it may be that my eyes start to shift out of focus due to the intensity of the beam. Again, this is not an issue in real-life use as whatever artifact there might be is simply not noticeable when the beam is projected onto objects in the distance. Also, I don't expect the beam pattern of a deep, smooth reflector designed to maximize throw as in the case of the EA4 to be the same as that of an orange peel reflector designed to balance throw and flood.

The UI of the EA4 took a little getting used to, but once I got the hang of it, it seems brilliant. The switch seems to provide a good balance between tautness (for distinguishing the two stages) and responsiveness. I also love the blue ring of light around the switch. Not only does it allow me to quickly spot the switch in total darkness, it also counts out the remaining voltage in the batteries when those are installed or when the light is put into lock-out mode. For example, when I inserted a fresh batch of eneloop batteries into the flashlight, the blue light first shone 5 times in quick succession and then, after a one-second pause, shone twice more in quick succession, which indicates a combined remaining voltage of 5.2 volts in the batteries.

Like many others, I wish the light had a lower low (say about 10-20 lumens). I also wish that the lock-out can be undone by 3 quick presses, as opposed to one long hard press. However, those are really minor points.

I had been blissfully unaware of the rattling sound inside my light until I read about it in this thread.:huh: Upon shaking the light, the rattling occurs regardless of whether or how I am holding down the switch, as several forum members also noted. In that respect, our experience is not consistent with the reply by Sysmax earlier in the thread. I am glad that the switch is not the source of the noise, as the former is already being asked to do a lot, and I would be concerned if it is not built nice and tight to handle the job. I also don't think that a loose reflector is to blame for the noise as, upon close scrutiny, the rattle seems to emanate from a location inside the light just beneath the emitter.

Sysmax, if you come upon this post, I hope that you can shed some further light on the rattling noise. Since some members have experienced it in their lights but others have not, I imagine that the rattling sound is not a function of a design feature of this light. If Sysmax can assure us that the rattle is not a sign of some issue that might develop down the road, then us flashaholics can put our minds at ease, and concentrate on enjoying this light. If, on the other hand, the rattle is indicative of a manufacturing defect, then I imagine that Sysmax would want to make things right for its customers. The company has invested way too much work in cultivating an excellent reputation and loyal international following to not fully address this issue once it has been made aware of such issue. Thanks.


----------



## Sarlix

Gordo's toilet roll seems huge...I've never seen anything like. And dc38's ain't much better.. It would be nice to get some size comparisons with a standard EU sized toilet roll.

In fact, I demand that all further light/roll comparisons should conform to EU toilet rolling standards!


----------



## Bigpapi13

I just received mine. This thing is absolutely awsome for size and weight compared to output. I thought my TK 35 was size efficient but this is definitely more user friendly especially with the switch modes. And, almost half the price of what I paid for the TK 35.


----------



## damaster698

I saw this new light the day after I ordered a protac HL.... although this isn't really a tactical light by any means, the sheer lumens and 4aa was my selling point. I might be ordering one to sit next to the new protac hl. DO you guys think the 860 lumens is an accurate measurement thats alot of light! I'm excited to see a review for this bad boy, they are selling for $79.99 on amazon already!


----------



## Sarlix

damaster698 said:


> DO you guys think the 860 lumens is an accurate measurement thats alot of light! I'm excited to see a review for this bad boy, they are selling for $79.99 on amazon already!



Checkout this real world usage review - I think it'll answer you questions! 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbFF1kf7OoA


----------



## LEDmodMan

Just learned about the additional Battery Junction delay on these.  I guess I _should_ have canceled my order and gone elsewhere. I suppose this is what you get anymore for being a loyal customer. :sigh:

Seems a bit odd to me that they are the only place having this issue. Latest excuse is that it turns out DHL never shipped them and they are still sitting in a warehouse somewhere in China, and that is the best (and only) information they can get from the supplier.


----------



## tx101

Yourfun2 said:


> Someday we will be able to tell our flashlights what time we want it to wake us up with the strobe. Even then the 2 mode Surefire will cost over twice as much.



Yes .... but in years to come the Surefire will be the only one still working


----------



## Devildude

I just got mine in the mail today, ordered it Tuesday night from Illumination Supply. I compared it to the TK41 and I must say Wow, definitely will not throw as far but a lot smaller and lighter. One heck of a good buy, I would highly recommend this light for the combination of size and power. Being able to run eneloops is a big plus.


----------



## windsurf

Sarlix said:


> Checkout this real world usage review - I think it'll answer you questions!
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbFF1kf7OoA



I've downloaded it and watched multiple times. If I recognized the light names/models correctly, here's my impressions at key times:
1:25-1:53 Compare EA4 CW (1st) to EA4 NW (2nd). The NW looks brighter to me:thinking: (camera view or stronger batteries?)
2:24-2:37 Compare Eagletac G25C2 to EA4. The G25C2 (rated 856 lm) looks a tad brighter to me.
2:45-3:09 Compare Eagletac GX25 to EA4. The GX25 (rated 870 lm) looks brighter to me.

Some random thoughts about these high outputs. All of these manufacturer's must be pushing the max current (or more) per the Cree specs for XM-L. Either that or they truly are getting the higher output tolerance leds (Cree specs +/-7% from nominal flux values)-Cree Charts:

1. Max current (3000mA) gives 325% times more flux than at 100% base current of 700.mA. Therefore, at 3Amps: 975lm vs base 300lm for U2 and 910lm vs base 280lm for T6.

2. Eagletac lists their G25C2 U2 emitter at 1030lm. Not sure how they can push it that hard, especially since the Cree spec is with a Tjunction of 25o​C. In flashlights, Tj​ is probably closer to 75o​C where Cree derates the outputs by 10%. So now we're down to 878 lm and 819lm. for the EA4s. (Note: Cree specs the new XM-L2 at 85o​C so the spec is no longer inflated at real life temps.)

3. I don't know the efficiency of the EA4 lens and reflector, but Eagletac specs the G25C2 emitter at 1030lm while the ANSI FL-1 value is 856lm. So, based on very similar ANSI outputs, I assume the EA4 CW is pushing the U2 to about the same level.

Bottom line, these three referenced lights are all leading edge bright. It's a good thing the Turbo modes step down after 3 minutes or else these leds would suffer early death and/or change color.


----------



## herosemblem

Neutral White (the only one anyone would buy anyway) = backordered at IlluminationSupply. I snooze & lose :thumbsup:.


----------



## Devildude

herosemblem said:


> Neutral White (the only one anyone would buy anyway) = backordered at IlluminationSupply. I snooze & lose :thumbsup:.





Mine was a neutral white and it shows against my TK41, but just as bright at the top end and easier on the eyes.


----------



## GordoJones88

windsurf said:


> All of these manufacturer's must be pushing the max current (or more) per the Cree specs for XM-L. Either that or they truly are getting the higher output tolerance leds (Cree specs +/-7% from nominal flux values)-Cree Charts:
> 
> 1. Max current (3000mA) gives 325% times more flux than at 100% base current of 700.mA. Therefore, at 3Amps: 975lm vs base 300lm for U2 and 910lm vs base 280lm for T6.
> 
> 2. Eagletac lists their G25C2 U2 emitter at 1030lm. Not sure how they can push it that hard, especially since the Cree spec is with a Tjunction of 25o​C. In flashlights, Tj​ is probably closer to 75o​C where Cree derates the outputs by 10%. So now we're down to 878 lm and 819lm. for the EA4s. (Note: Cree specs the new XM-L2 at 85o​C so the spec is no longer inflated at real life temps.)
> 
> 3. I don't know the efficiency of the EA4 lens and reflector, but Eagletac specs the G25C2 emitter at 1030lm while the ANSI FL-1 value is 856lm. So, based on very similar ANSI outputs, I assume the EA4 CW is pushing the U2 to about the same level.
> 
> Bottom line, these three referenced lights are all leading edge bright. It's a good thing the Turbo modes step down after 3 minutes or else these leds would suffer early death and/or change color.


 

The new Eagletac SX25A6 XMLU2 is listed with 1130 emitter lumens and 925 ANSI lumens.


----------



## windsurf

GordoJones88 said:


> The new Eagletac SX25A6 XMLU2 is listed with 1130 emitter lumens and 925 ANSI lumens.



Ouch, where's the refrigeration unit?


----------



## markr6

I'm at work but just heard over 17,000 power customers in my county don't have power (very high winds). I hope I don't...I want to give my EA4 a good workout!


----------



## HighlanderNorth

Sarlix said:


> Gordo's toilet roll seems huge...I've never seen anything like. And dc38's ain't much better.. It would be nice to get some size comparisons with a standard EU sized toilet roll.
> 
> In fact, I demand that all further light/roll comparisons should conform to EU toilet rolling standards!




Wait a minute! I knew that the European countries standardized their currency by agreeing to universally switch to the Euro, but did they also standardize toilet paper roll size? Wow, when countries make big moves like toilet paper roll standardization, you have to wonder whats next! But I guess its better than no toilet paper at all, like in some countries. 

The EA4 does seem to be almost exactly the size of a roll of TP. That makes it easy and convenient to get a feel for how it will fit in your hand without actually having to see the light. Just grab an empty roll!


----------



## applevision

Team, I got my EA4 NW yesterday (Thursday) from Illumination Supply, and am _very_ impressed by the speedy service... I ordered it on Monday night! 

This light is divine! It has finally scratched my 1+ year itch for the Zebralight Q50. I would say that it is everything I had hoped for from the Zebralight Q50, minus two things: 1) I was kind of partial to the unique squared shape of the Q50; 2) I figure that Zebralight would have been able to get a lower lumen "low" on this light... To think, that just a few years ago, 65 lumens would have been a reasonable "high" on an LED light! But, those points aside, I'm deeply impressed. Bright, excellent throw, beautiful beam characteristics and color, and a very good UI that feels solid. I compared it to my Sunwayman M40A (which I adore) and it is nearly as bright on turbo (just a hair less bright) but significantly more compact and lighter overall. It also has a slightly lower low than the M40A as well, and a much nice beam color with the neutral. Plus, I really like the UI as it is simple and easy to do with 1 hand, while the M40A really requires 2 hands for me to use (Magnetic but with only 4 discrete steps). 

In sum, this is my new go-to light. I love it and it makes a wall of light when needed but is nice and compact, and runs on my beloved eneloops. I am a happy man!


----------



## Swedpat

windsurf said:


> I'm wondering about the tint on my NW EA4. It's not a problem outdoors where of course it belongs, but indoors its odd.
> 
> The following whitewall was about 18" away. The level was on the lowest or next to lowest setting. The hotspot truly is a blinding white with the immediate corona a bit yellow as shown. However, the spill is actually a light magenta which the camera only shows as grey. I included a color swath that closely mimics what I actually see in the spill. Anybody else seeing this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close to actual spill color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I know the light supposedly has a mineral glass lens with anti-reflective coating (per the website), so I reflected a 40w soft white desk lamp bulb off the lens. Surprisingly, it was a deep pink/magenta color while the smaller images (bouncing off the reflector?) are pure white. My two Quarks are supposed to have AR coatings on the inside surface, but only reflect a white/cool white image of the bulb. I'm wondering if the EA4 lens could have been installed backwards?
> 
> Anybody else see this type of reflection?
> Thanks,



Actually I can see something like that in all my XM-L lights with coated lens. The hotspot can be white, corona yellow and then a purple or magenta spill. I think it's because of the coating.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

applevision said:


> I compared it to my Sunwayman M40A (which I adore) and it is nearly as bright on turbo (just a hair less bright) but significantly more compact and lighter overall. It also has a slightly lower low then the M40A as well, and a much nice beam color with the neutral. Plus, I really like the UI as it is simple and easy to do with 1 hand, while the M40A really requires 2 hands for me to use (Magnetic but with only 4 discrete steps).



How does the EA4 compare in throw to the M40A? BTW, is the M40A you have the XM-L U2 or the MC-E?


----------



## RBH

At 18500 lux against 20000 lux for the EA4, theoretically any way, the EA4 should throw better.



InquisitiveInquirer said:


> How does the EA4 compare in throw to the M40A? BTW, is the M40A you have the XM-L U2 or the MC-E?


----------



## tam17

Swedpat said:


> Actually I can see something like that in all my XM-L lights with coated lens. The hotspot can be white, corona yellow and then a purple or magenta spill. I think it's because of the coating.



Yes, that's the exact phenomenon which puzzled all PA40 users back in the day. The lens AR coating is the most probable cause.

Cheers


----------



## jomox

Not sure if this beamshot was posted on this thread but it sold the EA4 to me (Will order it next month) 





I wanted something AA, asked my supplier and they said the EA4 is their personal favorite, they have most Fenix lights and others in stock also, seems like a great light for the money. I'll find out how durable it is over time though.


----------



## RBH

Is the beamshot the cool or neutral version ? Makes me glad I've got one coming.

Thanks Bruce


----------



## jomox

That's the cool white version, another below, tree at about 55mm (One above: tree lines are at around 200m,) Not sure if allowed to post direct link as not sure if its rival site (Credits to flashlight man)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s524/bear_down1/DSC05253.jpg?t=1355017637

Lower shutter speed. 

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s524/bear_down1/DSC05292.jpg?t=1355097944


Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm


----------



## Up All Night

Don't base your expectations on the first two beamshots, they're extemely overexposed. Lights with twice the lux won't light a treeline @ 200 meters like that.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

RBH said:


> At 18500 lux against 20000 lux for the EA4, theoretically any way, the EA4 should throw better.



I recall reading in some thread before that the XM-L U2 M40A did 24000 lux though? In case some ppl use different measurements for their lux, i wanted to see applevisions opinion on throw on it vs the EA4 since he physically owns both.


----------



## jomox

Up All Night said:


> Don't base your expectations on the first two beamshots, they're extemely overexposed. Lights with twice the lux won't light a treeline @ 200 meters like that.



We will soon find out, only owners can know.


----------



## Sarlix

Thanks for the photos Jomox! 

I've finally decided I'm going to buy one! now all I need is the money lol

@HighlanderNorth - I was jesting about EU standardized toilet roll sizes, I don't think they really do that :laughing:


----------



## Up All Night

jomox said:


> We will soon find out, only owners can know.


Actually I do know, I own & have seen lights with more than 50 000k not look that impressive.


----------



## biglights

The 2nd photo is a good example of the EA4. The one with the lower shutter speed. I have the EA4 and it does have a lot throw. You will be impressed with this one!


----------



## RBH

The image with the corect exposure still makes me glad I bought one. I've got a K40, and I can tell this little light looks damned amazing. 



Up All Night said:


> Don't base your expectations on the first two beamshots, they're extemely overexposed. Lights with twice the lux won't light a treeline @ 200 meters like that.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

jomox said:


> That's the cool white version, another below, tree at about 55mm (One above: tree lines are at around 200m,) Not sure if allowed to post direct link as not sure if its rival site (Credits to flashlight man)
> 
> http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s524/bear_down1/DSC05253.jpg?t=1355017637
> 
> Lower shutter speed.
> 
> http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s524/bear_down1/DSC05292.jpg?t=1355097944
> 
> 
> Your images are too large and have been replaced with links Please resize and repost.
> See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm




Wow, its amazing how much whiter the ground looks in picture #2 with the slower shutter speed! LOL

Is that really the EA4? That looks really bright in the top picture and in the picture from the other post. Is it on a lower setting in the bottom picture or is that just the slower shutter speed?


----------



## windsurf

Since this is my first Nitecore, was wondering if anybody can confirm whether the sticker barcode number on the bottom of the EA4 box (not UPC) matches one of the two numbers on the light itself? I never gave them a thought until seeing these posts in the www.taschenlampen-forum.de (Google & Babelfish tranlations match closely):

 "And the serial numbers on the box and lamp are also in agreement, then it will also be a CW " ..."Yes, the serial number .. true"
 "Have a NW and there is "EA2W U2 SMO" and then the serial number is also on the lamp itself."

My sticker reads_ 2120383540xx6 (xx,yy,zz in lieu of the real numbers)
light's first no. 2011201191yy.8
and second no.___ 2012204503zz.8

I assumed the box sticker might be a batch/date code while the light numbers might have been part of the "CN patent pending" label. I now see the little Warranty Service tag has a spot for the serial number (but which number?)


----------



## Up All Night

Up All Night said:


> Don't base your expectations on the first two beamshots, they're extemely overexposed. Lights with twice the lux won't light a treeline @ 200 meters like that.



I didn't post that to dump on this light or this thread. This light definitely appeals and I'm sure I'll purchase one. I just want to give a heads-up to anyone who may not be familiar with lux #'s or ANSI throw ratings. The photo is misleading, nothing worse than cracking open a new light with high expectations only to be disappointed. I'm not suggesting it was shot like that intentionally, the hype of a new light, especially one so small with big performance can set peoples perceptions askew.

Peace!

Hate the game,...not the player!


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

I've always carried smaller lights when i'm out and this'll probably be the first hefty light i do carry around. I must admit that it's a little uncomfortable throwing in the pocket like my other 1aa or 2aa lights (though doable as it's stubby). While i had intended to do the same with this EA4, after actually trying to do so, i changed my mind... despite saying i would hehe... For those of you with bigger lights where on your belt do you affix the holster & light? I find it annoying at the side of my waist as, when i walk, my swaying arms keep bumping in to it. In the front of my waist, it's uncomfortable when sitting. In the back it's slow and cumbersome to access. Maybe i'm just too used to pocketing my lights. hmmm...


----------



## Sarlix

HighlanderNorth said:


> Wow, its amazing how much whiter the ground looks in picture #2 with the slower shutter speed! LOL



Looks like it snowed in between beamshots 



Up All Night said:


> Hate the game,...not the player!



I've only owned/used single cell lights so I have no idea what to expect from these bigger boy's - Thanks for the heads up 




InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Hefty, little uncomfortable, annoying, bumping, uncomfortable, cumbersome



So how are you going to carry it InquisitiveInquirer?


----------



## jomox

The more I look around at beamshots, the more realistic those images I posted are, in-fact other beamshots are very similar like this: (With street light interference which makes the flashlight light worse) 

http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab299/Rickr1/NitecoreEA4021.jpg

http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab299/Rickr1/NitecoreEA4024.jpg


I'll find out when I get it, but honestly unless you have the light you have no idea how it is in person. However I trust my supplier and the number of beamshots around the net to get a good enough reflection of how it will be. I don't think I will be disappointed especially because it's AA.


----------



## RBH

No one should take offense at a statement meant only to inform. I know I certainly didn't.:thumbsup:



Up All Night said:


> I didn't post that to dump on this light or this thread. This light definitely appeals and I'm sure I'll purchase one. I just want to give a heads-up to anyone who may not be familiar with lux #'s or ANSI throw ratings. The photo is misleading, nothing worse than cracking open a new light with high expectations only to be disappointed. I'm not suggesting it was shot like that intentionally, the hype of a new light, especially one so small with big performance can set peoples perceptions askew.
> 
> Peace!
> 
> Hate the game,...not the player!


----------



## rewdee

I just received a neutral white version. The low looks a lot more rhan 65 limens. Looks almost like 200 lumens. Also the head rattles.


----------



## GordoJones88




----------



## wonkycows

I'm really interested in this light. The throw looks brilliant for the size. How good is the spill though. Although the throw is mostly talked about, I find that the spill is often what makes a light usable for me. I currently own some throwers and some flooders too. I'd really love something that does a bit of both in this sort of compact size. What do you think guys?


----------



## RBH

Sometimes my head rattles. 



rewdee said:


> Also the head rattles.


----------



## GordoJones88

wonkycows said:


> I'm really interested in this light. The throw looks brilliant for the size. How good is the spill though. Although the throw is mostly talked about, I find that the spill is often what makes a light usable for me. I currently own some throwers and some flooders too. I'd really love something that does a bit of both in this sort of compact size. What do you think guys?


*
DO EEET!!*


----------



## Yourfun2

How is your beam on this light. Does it have a doughnut or ring for a beam?


----------



## Devildude

wonkycows said:


> I'm really interested in this light. The throw looks brilliant for the size. How good is the spill though. Although the throw is mostly talked about, I find that the spill is often what makes a light usable for me. I currently own some throwers and some flooders too. I'd really love something that does a bit of both in this sort of compact size. What do you think guys?



This light has a fair amount of spill, go for it.


----------



## markr6

Yourfun2 said:


> How is your beam on this light. Does it have a doughnut or ring for a beam?


 On the lowest setting it is a very, very slight donut right in the center but hardly worth mentioning. I just checked on a wall in my house. Otherwise you'll never notice this.



Devildude said:


> This light has a fair amount of spill, go for it.


I agree. I always appreciate a good spill and considering the throw, the spill on the EA4 is pretty good.


----------



## applevision

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> How does the EA4 compare in throw to the M40A? BTW, is the M40A you have the XM-L U2 or the MC-E?





RBH said:


> At 18500 lux against 20000 lux for the EA4, theoretically any way, the EA4 should throw better.



Yes, my experience bears this out. The EA4 has this amazing (apparently very customized) deep reflector that throws like nobody's business! Although the M40A has both a slightly brighter spill and hotspot, the reach of the EA4 is better. I also feel like the spill is slightly more usable with the EA4 as it more gently tapers off into the circle, where the M40A has a harsher polygonal cutout shape from the shape of the bezel. Again, I _love_ my M40A, so this has a lot of weight for me to say that I love the EA4 more... but I do, and that's the light I want to keep near me at all times now, despite the fact that I have 2 M40As, one upstairs and one downstairs... I kind of want to get another EA4 now... part of it is because of the gorgeous color of the neutral white beam, and part of it is that it is such a functional little powerhouse. I know it's kind of redundant and a little self-fulfilling, but I have to say it: The EA4 is now my favorite light ever. Well, favorite full-sized light. My keychain still has a Quark MiNi CR2 on it that is with me whenever I am out and about and has never let me down... and around my neck now lives the masterpiece from MBI called the Core Ti which is with me 24/7...


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Firstly, i must apologize for the amateur beamshots. I've never really taken beamshots before and all i've got is an 3-or-more-year-old, $200 digital camera, and i really don't know what the heck i'm doing, and my hands can't seem to hold it steady since the pictures are very blurry no matter how many retakes i do -- maybe a cruddy camera? Here are some shots at my park. All shots are of the Fenix LD41 first followed by the Nitecore EA4 both on turbo mode. BTW,, photos showed up all black at first, so i had turn up the exposure like mad in these retakes. It's same exposure for both ld41 and ea4 shots. If these look hideous, i'll take them down, so let me know...


----------



## CreeCrazy

I really like the stuff Nitecore has been doing this past year or so. I already have the EC1. I couldn't take it anymore. I just ordered one even though I already have a Fenix LD41. But after looking at the beam shot comparison. It looks as if the EA4 blows away the LD41.


----------



## herosemblem

Great comparison shots, inquisitiveinquirer. Thanks for taking the time.
Big question though- are those photos representative of how the light actually appears to the eyes? Thank you.

Ps I'm going to get the light anyway


----------



## MIKES250R

Great pics. I too struggle with long exposure night shots. Great compare/contrast shots, I can't wait for mine to come in. I ordered the cool white as I wanted absolute max output. Everybody is so in love with the natural, I may have to order one of those too!


----------



## jomox

Thanks for the beamshots appreciated. It again shows the shots I posted are very realistic to how the light it. However street light polution and low end cameras don't do the flashlight justice, but it at least gives an idea.

I'll be getting the cool white also.


----------



## RBH

There is such a fizz for the NW, it makes me wonder if anyone has done a side by side comparison of the two. Is the beam hideous on the CW ? 




MIKES250R said:


> Great pics. I too struggle with long exposure night shots. Great compare/contrast shots, I can't wait for mine to come in. I ordered the cool white as I wanted absolute max output. Everybody is so in love with the natural, I may have to order one of those too!


----------



## windsurf

RBH said:


> There is such a fizz for the NW, it makes me wonder if anyone has done a side by side comparison of the two. Is the beam hideous on the CW ?


The only comparison I saw was posted earlier in this thread of a german video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbFF1kf7OoA

Time mark 1:25 -1:53 appears to be the EA4 CW first then the NW with a few back and forth sweeps. The CW definately has a deeper purple spill on the snow compared to the NW's lighter magenta. Also, I think the NW hotspot looks brighter on the building for some reason.

And yes, I do like my NW


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

herosemblem said:


> Great comparison shots, inquisitiveinquirer. Thanks for taking the time.
> Big question though- are those photos representative of how the light actually appears to the eyes? Thank you.
> 
> Ps I'm going to get the light anyway



To the eye, the lights do no look as bright as in the picture as, like i stated, i had turn up the exposure super high or else the pictures on my cheap & old digital camera showed nothing but black. The pictures are not to represent the true brightness or throwiness of either lights, but more as a comparison between two similar lights that both use 4AAs and XM-L U2. It'd be nice if selfbuilt were to review this light. His pictures and reviews are top-notch.


----------



## was_jlh

windsurf said:


> The only comparison I saw was posted earlier in this thread of a german video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbFF1kf7OoA
> 
> Time mark 1:25 -1:53 appears to be the EA4 CW first then the NW with a few back and forth sweeps. The CW definately has a deeper purple spill on the snow compared to the NW's lighter magenta. Also, I think the NW hotspot looks brighter on the building for some reason.
> 
> And yes, I do like my NW



i agree the NW looks brighter in the video but i read CW usually looks brighter. am i mistaken thinking that CW is usually brighter?


----------



## RBH

I think that's what they're saying. But I'm not totally sure.

G]



[/IMG]



was_jlh said:


> i agree the NW looks brighter in the video but i read CW usually looks brighter. am i mistaken thinking that CW is usually brighter?


----------



## darkpeak

In the video it is snowing and so the neutral probably cuts through better and there is less light bouncing back at the camera, though usually CW's are the brighter lights. In the Nitecore advert above it states regarding the neutral LED "and better-suited to cutting through mist or rain".


----------



## boytommy80

Nitecore EA4 vs TK 35?Who can help me comparison?Thks


----------



## gbsbg

In a German flashlightforum they discuss the following feature of the EA4: go in SOS mode, finish it by a half click, wait 3 minutes during which the blue LED is lighting continuously and be surprised that the EA4 goes on by itself in high-mode after 3 minutes.

Now what do you say? Does it work with your EA4s also and when so is it a feature or a bug and when it is a feature what is it for?
Thanks


----------



## dc38

gbsbg said:


> In a German flashlightforum they discuss the following feature of the EA4: go in SOS mode, finish it by a half click, wait 3 minutes during which the blue LED is lighting continuously and be surprised that the EA4 goes on by itself in high-mode after 3 minutes.
> 
> Now what do you say? Does it work with your EA4s also and when so is it a feature or a bug and when it is a feature what is it for?
> Thanks



Wow, interesting find! IMO, I can't think of any reason the light would do that under any operational circumstance...it only seems to happen after completing a full cycle of SOS. Maybe the way the light is programmed makes it think it is off after the first cycle, so half pressing the button turns it"on" when it is actually already on? Kinda like when on standby mode. Also, one can come out of lockout by using a held half press.


----------



## windsurf

gbsbg said:


> In a German flashlightforum they discuss the following feature of the EA4: go in SOS mode, finish it by a half click, wait 3 minutes during which the blue LED is lighting continuously and be surprised that the EA4 goes on by itself in high-mode after 3 minutes.
> 
> Now what do you say? Does it work with your EA4s also and when so is it a feature or a bug and when it is a feature what is it for?
> Thanks



Thanks for the post-now I know how to repeat it. 

The first day I got the EA4 was trying to figure out the 3 flashing modes (long full press each time to cycle among the 3 modes wasn't clear). Set the light down on my computer desk and it popped on turbo after a while. Fortunately the bezel was up or I wouldn't have seen it.

Has to be a bug that wasn't deemed worth fixing.


----------



## rewdee

gbsbg said:


> In a German flashlightforum they discuss the following feature of the EA4: go in SOS mode, finish it by a half click, wait 3 minutes during which the blue LED is lighting continuously and be surprised that the EA4 goes on by itself in high-mode after 3 minutes.
> 
> Now what do you say? Does it work with your EA4s also and when so is it a feature or a bug and when it is a feature what is it for?
> Thanks



Tactical decoy. 3 minute timer.


----------



## Rikr

I have the cw EA4 vs the UniqueFire UF-F10 (TK35 clone) The EA4 Rocks!! Left picture EA4 Right picture TK35 clone


EA4


----------



## applevision

rewdee said:


> Tactical decoy. 3 minute timer.


LOL! I love it!:twothumbs


----------



## Skyraider59

Got my EA4 cool tint for Christmas and what a flashlight, really ROCKS!!!!:thumbsup: Loads of trow, but for me, still plenty of spill. We went for a quick walk with the dog this evening and my wife commented "This must be the most powerful flashlight you have" and she is not a flashaholic and do not have any interest in them, but she did notice how much brighter this was! 
The light did feel OK in my coat pocket, I noticed more the weight than the size (277gr with 4 black eneloops) The turbo is fantastic and the extra low, a little high, but still usable around the house. I have taken some ceiling bounce shot with the light positioned in candle mode on my kitchen floor, this is to show you how much lights this put. 

Despite the weight, I will take this one with me for camping, specially knowing this works on AA.
The only disappointment for me is the blue flash locating mode:sigh:, if you expect to find the light in the dark with this, you are going to be very disappointed and you will be looking for a long time unless the switch is facing you:thumbsdow.
The blue flash is really very dim, this may have been done to minimize the drain but is more of a gimmick that a useful locator, a red led would have been much better but would probably caused a higher drain?

Love it:twothumbs

The photos taken are as close as I can get it to human eye light perception
*ultra low*




*low*




*medium*




*high*




Sorry but I missed the turbo mode, will upload photo later on

Turbo, here it is


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

Skyraider59 said:


> Got my EA4 cool tint for Christmas and what a flashlight, really ROCKS!!!!:thumbsup: Loads of trow, but for me, still plenty of spill. We went for a quick walk with the dog this evening and my wife commented "This must be the most powerful flashlight you have" and she is not a flashaholic and do not have any interest in them, but she did notice how much brighter this was!
> The light did fill ok in my coat pocket, I noticed more the weight than the size (277gr with 4 black eneloops) The turbo is fantastic and the low a little high but still usable around the house. I have taken some ceiling bounce shot with the light positioned in candle mode on my kitchen floor, this is to show you how much lights this put and despite the weight, I will take this one with me for camping, specially knowing this works on AA.
> The only disappointment for me is the blue flash locating mode:sigh:, if you expect to find the light in the dark with this, you are going to be very disappointed and you will be looking for a long time unless the switch is facing you:thumbsdow. The blue flash is really very dim, this may have been done to minimize the drain but is more of a gimmick that a useful locator, a red led would have been much better but would probably caused a higher drain.
> Love it:twothumbs
> The photos taken are as close as I can get it to human eye light perception



Thanks for the pics! I can't wait to get home and play with mine!


----------



## jomox

Great pictures, thanks.


----------



## Eric242

Now these are some good beamshots :thumbsup: Can´t wait to get my EA4 now (hopefully arrives before this years end).
Can´t seem to see a spot in the Beamshots, were these taken with ceiling bounce?

Eric


----------



## Skyraider59

How many blinks do you get on your lockout mode?
I am using the Eneloop Xx black, and had the flashlight working for a total of about 30mn
, and when in lock out mode I get 5 short flash, second pause and a final last flash, now according to the instruction, the would read 5.1v, is anyone getting that kind of reading?? 
See power tips below

Power Tips
1. When the light is on, the power indicator will blink once every two
seconds when power levels reach 50%.
2. When the light is on, the power indicator will blink consistently when
power levels are low.
3. Each time batteries are inserted or the light is put into lockout mode,
the power indicator light will blink in various patterns to indicate the
battery voltage (accurate to ±0.1V). For example, when the battery
voltage is at a maximum charge of 4.2V, the power indicator will blink
4 times in quick succession, followed by a one second pause and two
more blinks, indicating a total battery voltage of 4.2V.


----------



## Skyraider59

Eric242 said:


> Now these are some good beamshots :thumbsup: Can´t wait to get my EA4 now (hopefully arrives before this years end).
> Can´t seem to see a spot in the Beamshots, were these taken with ceiling bounce?
> 
> Eric



Hi Eric, yes they were, 
EA4 on the floor pointing to the ceiling, in the cupboard door the white spot is the reflection of the lens. I am amazed how much light this AA driven flashlight give.
J-L


----------



## was_jlh

Thank you darkpeak and RBH.


----------



## markr6

Skyraider59 said:


> How many blinks do you get on your lockout mode?
> I am using the Eneloop Xx black, and had the flashlight working for a total of about 30mn
> , and when in lock out mode I get 5 short flash, second pause and a final last flash, now according to the instruction, the would read 5.1v, is anyone getting that kind of reading??
> See power tips below
> 
> Power Tips
> 1. When the light is on, the power indicator will blink once every two
> seconds when power levels reach 50%.
> 2. When the light is on, the power indicator will blink consistently when
> power levels are low.
> 3. Each time batteries are inserted or the light is put into lockout mode,
> the power indicator light will blink in various patterns to indicate the
> battery voltage (accurate to ±0.1V). For example, when the battery
> voltage is at a maximum charge of 4.2V, the power indicator will blink
> 4 times in quick succession, followed by a one second pause and two
> more blinks, indicating a total battery voltage of 4.2V.




With 4 Eneloop XX batteries I got up to 5.2v. I think it was the same when I was using normal Eneloops as well. I just tried it now and it's 5.0 after some use.


----------



## Wtlj

markr6 said:


> With 4 Eneloop XX batteries I got up to 5.2v. I think it was the same when I was using normal Eneloops as well. I just tried it now and it's 5.0 after some use.



I got 5.2 with brand new out of the package 2000 eneloops.


----------



## dc38

Wtlj said:


> I got 5.2 with brand new out of the package 2000 eneloops.



Considering fresh charged eneloops come to 1.4V off the charger, that sounds about right out of the package.


----------



## windsurf

Skyraider59 said:


> How many blinks do you get on your lockout mode?
> I am using the Eneloop Xx black, and had the flashlight working for a total of about 30mn
> , and when in lock out mode I get 5 short flash, second pause and a final last flash, now according to the instruction, the would read 5.1v, is anyone getting that kind of reading??



Like others, 5.2 with nearly fresh eneloop XX and slowly dropping. Tonight, saw the blue indicator rapidly blink while on turbo (manual says "power levels low"), but stop flashing on all other levels. Lockout mode then blinks 4.8v which is well within 4 NiMHs nominal voltage (but probably won't be able to pull the current on turbo for too much longer). 

Still haven't seen the indicator do the 2 second blink indicating "50% power levels". Expect that to happen on the lower levels soon if I don't recharge.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

After i just fully charged my regular eneloops about a week ago, it gave me a reading of 5.6. 

I also had the fast blink when i was using it on turbo for a while. When i turned it off, it was 4.9. I wonder at what voltage reading should we take the eneloops out to charge to not overdrain them?


----------



## RBH

You bet.
Bruce



was_jlh said:


> Thank you darkpeak and RBH.


----------



## gbsbg

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> After i just fully charged my regular eneloops about a week ago, it gave me a reading of 5.6.
> 
> I also had the fast blink when i was using it on turbo for a while. When i turned it off, it was 4.9. I wonder at what voltage reading should we take the eneloops out to charge to not overdrain them?



As far as I know eneloops should not be discharged lower than 1V each. That means when EA4 shows 4 or 4,4V it is time to change them - at the latest.


----------



## windsurf

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> After i just fully charged my regular eneloops about a week ago, it gave me a reading of 5.6.
> 
> I also had the fast blink when i was using it on turbo for a while. When i turned it off, it was 4.9. I wonder at what voltage reading should we take the eneloops out to charge to not overdrain them?



I'd also shoot for no lower than a consistent 4.4v (not just a quick dip after turbo if its not convenient to change/recharge). Since the four cells are in series, you can't always tell if one is weaker than the others and dropping early below 1v. No harm recharging NiMH often in a good charger. Definitely use a charger with independent circuits (typ. Maha/Powerex C9000 or LaCrosse BC series) to properly charge each cell.

Lots of good info/discussion in the Flashlight Electronics - Batteries Included forum here on CPF and at Battery University about maintaining NiMH for best performance.


----------



## grepeyre

rewdee said:


> Tactical decoy. 3 minute timer.



I like it. Sounds very James Bondish


----------



## dc38

grepeyre said:


> I like it. Sounds very James Bondish



More Ethan hunt than james bond, bond would have left more destruction in his wake, and his idea of a decoy is a different kind of blinding explosive light lol


----------



## CreeCrazy

Just got mine in the mail today It's showing 5.4 volts with regular Eneloops that were charged maybe a month ago.


----------



## Wtlj

CreeCrazy said:


> Just got mine in the mail today It's showing 5.4 volts with regular Eneloops that were charged maybe a month ago.


So.... What do you think about the light?


----------



## atbglenn

I'm a bit disappointed with my EA4 I received today. It looks like the bezel was either cross-threaded, or the threads were cut un-square on the body. Plus there's a rattle even when I remove the tailcap and batteries, with the switch depressed as well. Anyone else notice this?


----------



## Skyraider59

atbglenn said:


> I'm a bit disappointed with my EA4 I received today. It looks like the bezel was either cross-threaded, or the threads were cut un-square on the body. Plus there's a rattle even when I remove the tailcap and batteries, with the switch depressed as well. Anyone else notice this?



I just had a close look at mine and the bezel is fitted the same way as yours with a small gap, there is also a small rattle when I do check it but I understand from a previous readings that this is normal and is coming from the switch, ie it is a kind of a free play!!??
Regarding the bezel the gap is constant on mine, it just look to me that the bezel they use is a little to long for it, this may allow you to fit a GDI O ring if so desire ?????


----------



## Skyraider59

Guys and girls, I have just done a review of the EA4, please do a CPF search under "Nitecore EA4 review" or use link enclosed
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?351365-NITECORE-EA4-PIONEER-%28cool-white%29-review&highlight=ea4+review


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

atbglenn said:


> I'm a bit disappointed with my EA4 I received today. It looks like the bezel was either cross-threaded, or the threads were cut un-square on the body. Plus there's a rattle even when I remove the tailcap and batteries, with the switch depressed as well. Anyone else notice this?



Mine's is exactly the same with the spacing between ss bezel and light & the light rattle. I believe these are normal as most ppl have them. I was nitpicking too, but the light is still awesome despite these minor things. The low is..... bleh, but who doesn't know that already.


----------



## atbglenn

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Mine's is exactly the same with the spacing between ss bezel and light & the light rattle. I believe these are normal as most ppl have them. I was nitpicking too, but the light is still awesome despite these minor things. The low is..... bleh, but who doesn't know that already.



Besides my complaints, it's still is an amazing light for it's size. I just wish it was cosmetically perfect with no rattles. Is that too much to ask?


----------



## Yourfun2

My light come out of lockout with a 1 second half press. I think it should be a >1 second full press?


----------



## Wtlj

Yourfun2 said:


> My light come out of lockout with a 1 second half press. I think it should be a >1 second full press?



Mines the same.


----------



## GordoJones88

I think the 1mm gap is intentional so if the light is dropped on the steel bezel ring, there is a little room for it to flex back and forth and not damage the aluminum body.


----------



## RBH

Mine comes out with a half or full press.



Wtlj said:


> Mines the same.


----------



## RBH

Mine comes out with a half or full press. 



Yourfun2 said:


> My light come out of lockout with a 1 second half press. I think it should be a >1 second full press?


----------



## rackem

> Guys and girls, I have just done a review of the EA4, please do a CPF search under "Nitecore EA4 review"[/quote'
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...ght=ea4+review[/HTML]
> 
> Mine should be here tomorrow based on this review.^^^^^^^^


----------



## Raiden

I cant wait to get mines! Hopefully before New Years Eve. Just another way of lighting up the night instead of fireworks.


----------



## earthlight

So the turbo mode is simply timed and cannot be used continuously in cold conditions? Maybe I will still stick with my TK45 even though this Nitecore seemed quite tempting at first.


----------



## RBH

If you have a G5, these shots at 30 yards will give you an idea how bright the EA4 CW actually is. As far as I can tell mine works exactly like the manual states. 








EA4






Maelstrom G5


----------



## xed888

RBH said:


> If you have a G5, these shots at 30 yards will give you an idea how bright the EA4 CW actually is. As far as I can tell mine *works exactly like the manual states*.



Do you mean with regards to the lock-out? If so, you're the only one.


----------



## grepeyre

RBH said:


> If you have a G5, these shots at 30 yards will give you an idea how bright the EA4 CW actually is. As far as I can tell mine works exactly like the manual states.



Thanks, I don't actually have a G5 but I'm starting to get the feel for the lumens... 350 lumens on the G5. The hotspot on the EA4 is slightly brighter to my eyes, like 140% times the G5 but the spread must be a good 3 times brighter. My my, vely nice!

Thanks to all the beamshots, I should have a slight idea how other toches compare to it whence I receive my little EA4


----------



## RBH

This is straight from the E4A manual. Mine, and everyone else's work as described from what I've read. The lights come out of lockout with a half, or full press.








xed888 said:


> Do you mean with regards to the lock-out? If so, you're the only one.


----------



## xed888

RBH said:


> This is straight from the E4A manual. Mine, and everyone else's work as described from what I've read. The lights come out of lockout with a half, or full press.



Seems to me they have changed the manual. I remember reading some members posting that it requires 3 double clicks to get out of lock-out in their manuals.


----------



## windsurf

xed888 said:


> Seems to me they have changed the manual. I remember reading some members posting that it requires 3 double clicks to get out of lock-out in their manuals.



Some manuals, mine included, and the Nitecore pdf (below) were wrong (unfortunately). A Sysmax rep clarified it back in post #288

With the light turned on, press the switch all the way down and hold for 
more than one second. The light will turn off and enter into lockout mode. 
Lockout mode consumes almost no battery power and prevents the light 
from accidentally turning on. *To exit lockout mode, simply press the 
switch three times within one second.*



Sysmax Ind. said:


> Hello man,
> 
> Glad to know you like EA4. And something need to clear here:
> 
> 1. "The rattle": It is not defective. The "rattle" comes from the switch, it is normal as the switch design does get that "rattle" sound. If you lightly hold the button and shake the light, you can not hear it any longer. No worries!
> 
> 2. Exiting lockout mode: The correct way to exit lockout mode would be hold the button fully down for more than 1 second. We made a mistake in the users' manual before. Now we have already corrected it. Very sorry for misleading you if you got confused in exiting lockout.
> 
> Hope everyone can enjoy the lights. Thank you.


----------



## RBH

That is bizarre. The only thing I can say for sure is that mine will come out with either a half or a full click. It does seem that a full click only would have been far more secure. Taking the few little nitpics into account, I still love my EA4. 



windsurf said:


> Some manuals, mine included, and the Nitecore pdf (below) were wrong (unfortunately). A Sysmax rep clarified it back in post #288
> 
> With the light turned on, press the switch all the way down and hold for
> more than one second. The light will turn off and enter into lockout mode.
> Lockout mode consumes almost no battery power and prevents the light
> from accidentally turning on. *To exit lockout mode, simply press the
> switch three times within one second.*


----------



## HighlanderNorth

**Was it a good purchase?

I am considering pulling the trigger and buying this light with a gift card, but I thought I'd ask the people who have already received theirs' whether its a good purchase. So overall, even with the inconsistency in the lockout(how to get out of lockout mode), and the rattle from the switch that a few people have mentioned, do you, as an owner of this light, consider it to be worth the money, and if you knew what you know now, would you still buy it?

Are the 2 issues mentioned above going to be of any real consequence: Has anyone really narrowed down the source of the rattle, and is it a weakness or a potential future problem? How about the method for getting out of lockout mode, will it be a problem? 

If either of those 2 issues is a problem in your opinion, can you explain how it will cause a problem? Thanks...


----------



## RBH

For me the answer is YES ! The only problem I can see is coming out of lockout with a half press instead of a full press.



HighlanderNorth said:


> **Was it a good purchase?
> 
> I am considering pulling the trigger and buying this light with a gift card, but I thought I'd ask the people who have already received theirs' whether its a good purchase. So overall, even with the inconsistency in the lockout(how to get out of lockout mode), and the rattle from the switch that a few people have mentioned, do you, as an owner of this light, consider it to be worth the money, and if you knew what you know now, would you still buy it?
> 
> Are the 2 issues mentioned above going to be of any real consequence: Has anyone really narrowed down the source of the rattle, and is it a weakness or a potential future problem? How about the method for getting out of lockout mode, will it be a problem?
> 
> If either of those 2 issues is a problem in your opinion, can you explain how it will cause a problem? Thanks...


----------



## Devildude

HighlanderNorth said:


> **Was it a good purchase?
> 
> I am considering pulling the trigger and buying this light with a gift card, but I thought I'd ask the people who have already received theirs' whether its a good purchase. So overall, even with the inconsistency in the lockout(how to get out of lockout mode), and the rattle from the switch that a few people have mentioned, do you, as an owner of this light, consider it to be worth the money, and if you knew what you know now, would you still buy it?
> 
> Are the 2 issues mentioned above going to be of any real consequence: Has anyone really narrowed down the source of the rattle, and is it a weakness or a potential future problem? How about the method for getting out of lockout mode, will it be a problem?
> 
> If either of those 2 issues is a problem in your opinion, can you explain how it will cause a problem? Thanks...


I bought on of the neutral white's and I have enjoyed it as it is smaller than my TK41 and almost as bright. The price was a good selling point as well. Mine did not have the rattle and getting out of lockout was not that big of an issue. I have two more coming from BJ when they get them in stock so I would say go a head and enjoy it is a nice pocket rocket.


----------



## Billspider

OHHHH the HORROR!!

I am becoming a flashaholic.
Ordered one of these today. What I'm getting for the price I couldn't pass up.
Using AA was the real selling point considering I have Eneloops and a Maha C9000 to charge them.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Well, i am weak.. Ordered and should arrive tomorrow. 

For me, i have always wanted a BRIGHT AA light, but could never justify the TK41 (as much as i wanted it). Personally, i think this fits me better. It is better for camping (smaller, lighter), same output, and my Goal zero kit can fully recharge it in one go. 

Being a nut, the first thing i will do, is turn it on (gotta make sure it works), then throw it in the drink. I don't plan on dropping my light in a river or lake, but i want to ensure that it will survive it should it happen (i never believe specs until i prove it for myself, where possible). Anyone do anything similar already?


----------



## AVService

Divine_Madcat said:


> Well, i am weak.. Ordered and should arrive tomorrow.



Me Too!

Mine will be here on Saturday I hope!!!


----------



## violatorjf

Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think my cool white EA4 is dead. 

I've had it for about a week and a half now and it's been working great but today I noticed a problem. When I was clicking through super low, low, med & high it wasn't switching to high, it was just staying on med. So I tried going straight to turbo then doing a half click to drop it to high but it didn't drop. I took the cap off to reset the chip and tried again but same problem. Tried 2 different sets of batteries (had eneloops in it, tried another set of them and a set of alkalines) but same problem. So I put the cap back on the last time and try to turn the light on and I get nothing. After about 5min I realize that the LED is actually lighting up but it's so dim you can hold it up to your eye and see the shape of it. (sorta like a moonlight mode?) No matter what I click combos I try it stays dim. Tried removing batteries again...tried different sets...no change, still just dim light.

I called Going Gear and explained it to them and let them know I have the original packaging and the light itself has no marks of any kind on it so the guy gave me an RMA# to return it. Bummer! 

Light off...






Light on...


----------



## windsurf

HighlanderNorth said:


> **Was it a good purchase?
> 
> I am considering pulling the trigger and buying this light with a gift card, but I thought I'd ask the people who have already received theirs' whether its a good purchase. So overall, even with the inconsistency in the lockout(how to get out of lockout mode), and the rattle from the switch that a few people have mentioned, do you, as an owner of this light, consider it to be worth the money, and if you knew what you know now, would you still buy it?
> 
> Are the 2 issues mentioned above going to be of any real consequence: Has anyone really narrowed down the source of the rattle, and is it a weakness or a potential future problem? How about the method for getting out of lockout mode, will it be a problem?
> 
> If either of those 2 issues is a problem in your opinion, can you explain how it will cause a problem? Thanks...



Absolutely a good purchase. I knew going in that the "ultra-low" of 65lms would be bright, but I've got some single AA lights for moonlight/ low use. I wanted the throw and balanced spill that was shown in some beam shots/videos and now confirmed.

1. Sysmax says the rattle is due to the switch design. I tend to agree that's probably it even though I can lightly press, hold, full press the switch and it still rattles (kind of a clunk vs lighter clink from a wire or something). They've made other lights with electronic switches, so I wouldn't think it's an issue.
2. I've never accidentally unlocked the light by handling or pocket storage, but I haven't had it in a backpack or suitcase yet. My gut feeling is that it won't be a problem.
3. The third undocumented "feature"/bug that others identified the sequence: exiting *SOS* mode with a short half press instead of the full press will turn off the light, keep the blue indicator on, and then 3 minutes later turn the light on to high. Again, not a problem if you turn it off correctly.


----------



## herosemblem

Was there some type of shipping discount for the EA4 @ IlluminationSupply last week? I thought I remember plugging things in for the lowest possible price to *CA*, and it came to $62-something, shipped (factor in $5 CA sales tax for me). 
_Today_, the total comes to about $65. Shipping cost says $2.50. Ideas why it was previously less expensive than today? Thanks. I'm going to get the light anyway...just paying the price for being an idiot and waiting.


----------



## markr6

Sorry to hear that...good thing GoingGear's customer service is exceptional! Will you be trying another?


violatorjf said:


> Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think my cool white EA4 is dead. I've had it for about a week and a half now and it's been working great but today I noticed a problem. When I was clicking through super low, low, med & high it wasn't switching to high, it was just staying on med. So I tried going straight to turbo then doing a half click to drop it to high but it didn't drop. I took the cap off to reset the chip and tried again but same problem. Tried 2 different sets of batteries (had eneloops in it, tried another set of them and a set of alkalines) but same problem. So I put the cap back on the last time and try to turn the light on and I get nothing. After about 5min I realize that the LED is actually lighting up but it's so dim you can hold it up to your eye and see the shape of it. (sorta like a moonlight mode?) No matter what I click combos I try it stays dim. Tried removing batteries again...tried different sets...no change, still just dim light.I called Going Gear and explained it to them and let them know I have the original packaging and the light itself has no marks of any kind on it so the guy gave me an RMA# to return it. Bummer! Light off...
> 
> 
> 
> Light on...


----------



## windsurf

violatorjf said:


> Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think my cool white EA4 is dead.
> 
> I called Going Gear and explained it to them and let them know I have the original packaging and the light itself has no marks of any kind on it so the guy gave me an RMA# to return it. Bummer!
> 
> Light on...



Well everybody wanted a moonlight mode, but that's ridiculous (sorry!). Let us know when GG ships another, if that's what you're planning. So far, this failure hasn't spread to my GG supplied light!


----------



## dc38

windsurf said:


> Well everybody wanted a moonlight mode, but that's ridiculous (sorry!). Let us know when GG ships another, if that's what you're planning. So far, this failure hasn't spread to my GG supplied light!


THATS NO MOONLIGHT. IT IS THE FIREFLY!!! Just curious thiough, whit kind of drain is coming out of that?


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

violatorjf said:


> Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news but I think my cool white EA4 is dead.
> 
> I've had it for about a week and a half now and it's been working great but today I noticed a problem. When I was clicking through super low, low, med & high it wasn't switching to high, it was just staying on med. So I tried going straight to turbo then doing a half click to drop it to high but it didn't drop. I took the cap off to reset the chip and tried again but same problem. Tried 2 different sets of batteries (had eneloops in it, tried another set of them and a set of alkalines) but same problem. So I put the cap back on the last time and try to turn the light on and I get nothing. After about 5min I realize that the LED is actually lighting up but it's so dim you can hold it up to your eye and see the shape of it. (sorta like a moonlight mode?) No matter what I click combos I try it stays dim. Tried removing batteries again...tried different sets...no change, still just dim light.
> 
> I called Going Gear and explained it to them and let them know I have the original packaging and the light itself has no marks of any kind on it so the guy gave me an RMA# to return it. Bummer!



I had this mysterious super low firefly mode happen to me with a defective quark 2AA turbo. None of the modes worked and when it was on, it went straight to super low firefly where i could stare right in to it. I had to return it to 4sevens when i got my RMA and i got another. Did you happen to jar the light a little (not drop it)? For ex, if it was in sitting on its bezel, you happened to accidently knocked it to its side?


----------



## violatorjf

markr6 said:


> Sorry to hear that...good thing GoingGear's customer service is exceptional! Will you be trying another?




Probably not. My neutral white came in from Illumination Supply and it's working fine. Also I think I prefer the NW over the CW. Couldn't really tell until I put them side by side.




windsurf said:


> Well everybody wanted a moonlight mode, but that's ridiculous (sorry!). Let us know when GG ships another, if that's what you're planning. So far, this failure hasn't spread to my GG supplied light!




Assuming they give the light the 'OK', which I'm sure they will, I'll probably get something else.




InquisitiveInquirer said:


> I had this mysterious super low firefly mode happen to me with a defective quark 2AA turbo. None of the modes worked and when it was on, it went straight to super low firefly where i could stare right in to it. I had to return it to 4sevens when i got my RMA and i got another. Did you happen to jar the light a little (not drop it)? For ex, if it was in sitting on its bezel, you happened to accidently knocked it to its side?




It definitely could have been knocked over from a standing position. I carry it in my side pocket so it has to take some impact every time I sit down, stand up, etc. but man if it can't handle that then it's not the light for me! Hopefully for everyone's sake it's not a widespread issue that is going to start popping up.


----------



## daywalker

gbsbg said:


> In a German flashlightforum they discuss the following feature of the EA4: go in SOS mode, finish it by a half click, wait 3 minutes during which the blue LED is lighting continuously and be surprised that the EA4 goes on by itself in high-mode after 3 minutes.
> 
> Now what do you say? Does it work with your EA4s also and when so is it a feature or a bug and when it is a feature what is it for?
> Thanks



My light works the same way. Only a half press in SOS mode leaves the button in continuous blue light leading to high-mode after 3 minutes. I believe they programmed it that way, no matter why. Maybe we will get an answer from Nitecore.


----------



## RBH

I tried that with mine last night several times and it turns off and stays off.



daywalker said:


> My light works the same way. Only a half press in SOS mode leaves the button in continuous blue light leading to high-mode after 3 minutes. I believe they programmed it that way, no matter why. Maybe we will get an answer from Nitecore.


----------



## violatorjf

daywalker said:


> My light works the same way. Only a half press in SOS mode leaves the button in continuous blue light leading to high-mode after 3 minutes. I believe they programmed it that way, no matter why. Maybe we will get an answer from Nitecore.



+1

I have a neutral white and it kicked into turbo after 3min of nothing. Weird.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

violatorjf said:


> Probably not. My neutral white came in from Illumination Supply and it's working fine. Also I think I prefer the NW over the CW. Couldn't really tell until I put them side by side.
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming they give the light the 'OK', which I'm sure they will, I'll probably get something else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It definitely could have been knocked over from a standing position. I carry it in my side pocket so it has to take some impact every time I sit down, stand up, etc. but man if it can't handle that then it's not the light for me! Hopefully for everyone's sake it's not a widespread issue that is going to start popping up.




If you already have another EA4 and want to choose another light, maybe order a new Zebralight SC52. Its a great little AA light. Its really small, and its the brightest single AA light out there right now, and it has like 9 brightness modes. You can get them for around $64. I bought one and got it about 2.5 weeks ago and its great.

I will wait a few more days before ordering the EA4 to see if more issues pop up. It seems like every other time I come to this thread there's a new issue. I was concerned because a light like this should cost around $109 or so, not $59.99-$69.99. So I was worried that maybe short cuts were taken, or at least its so new the bugs havent been sorted out yet.


----------



## markr6

Well I guess I need to consider myself lucky. I've had no issues, no rattling, no strange behavior, A+ quality and a NW tint to die for...even better than my newly beloved PD32UE, coming in at a close second!

I really wish noone had these issues. It's such a great light and a total shame if NC cut corners or whatever.


----------



## dc38

violatorjf said:


> +1
> 
> I have a neutral white and it kicked into turbo after 3min of nothing. Weird.


Come to think of it, the SOS might be related to the high mode, in the sense that it "steps down" into the high mode from turbo. Normally, half presses switch modes, but there is no mode to switch to...the beacon stays illuminated as if the light is still in operation.


----------



## markr6

violatorjf said:


> +1
> 
> I have a neutral white and it kicked into turbo after 3min of nothing. Weird.



I just tried this but everything seems OK on mine.

And after a few more days using this, I just have to say this button and UI is awesome!! I can't decide if I like Zebralight's or this one better. ZL wins for ability to start with low setting. NC wins for momentary on. Both are great for accessing modes quickly without a lot of hassle. Even thought you can't always tell which mode the EA4 is in with a half press, it's so quick to change it doesn't really matter.


----------



## stp

Ok guys, speaking about the interface. I read the manual and it's kinda like in case of zebra light hard to say how complicated it is in real life usage. I don't have problem with ZL but my father had. And I'm looking for 4xAA light for him. 

So what do you think, will EA4 be easy enough to use for older non flashoholic who had problem with ZL interface in the past? Yes I know about Sunwayman M40A but I'm waiting for them to offer variable interface becouse it would be the best for him I think. Currently I'm considering EA4 or V10/V11 A/R+extender.


----------



## lowatts

stp said:


> Ok guys, speaking about the interface. I read the manual and it's kinda like in case of zebra light hard to say how complicated it is in real life usage. I don't have problem with ZL but my father had. And I'm looking for 4xAA light for him.
> 
> So what do you think, will EA4 be easy enough to use for older non flashoholic who had problem with ZL interface in the past? Yes I know about Sunwayman M40A but I'm waiting for them to offer variable interface becouse it would be the best for him I think. Currently I'm considering EA4 or V10/V11 A/R+extender.


Just my opinion, but I think most non-flashaholics will want a simple clicky--single mode, 3-mode at most. And this would be even more true for an older person. Sure there will be exceptions, some people just like gadgets and would have no problem with this UI, but that's not most people.


----------



## stp

lowatts said:


> Just my opinion, but I think most non-flashaholics will want a simple clicky--single mode, 3-mode at most. And this would be even more true for an older person. Sure there will be exceptions, some people just like gadgets and would have no problem with this UI, but that's not most people.




Yes I guess that most non-flashoholicks when asked will tell you that they like/want single mode light. It's mostly because they never used something that emits over 100 lumens. After they will get it from you it will be used only for high lumen tasks. 3-mode light is Imho abomination that in one why or another will blind you - there is always a moment when you have to go trough high to reach low (and often there is some strobe too...sigh).

Thanks for your opinion it confirmed what I thought. I guess I wll have to wait for some small fatty light with variable regulation or with 2 push buttons (higher-lower). I was hoping that it may be it...I'm looking for that one perfect light two years already, getting little desperate...


----------



## Bumble

Hi, after browsing this thread has anybody done a runtime test on "high" ONLY (no turbo used at all), using a set of xx 2500 aa eneloops ? apologies in advance if its already here.


----------



## RBH

Post deleted



Bumble said:


> Hi, after browsing this thread has anybody done a runtime test on "high" ONLY (no turbo used at all), using a set of xx 2500 aa eneloops ? apologies in advance if its already here.


----------



## xpitxbullx

Just received my EA4W today. This is the best 4AA setup out there by far. UI is easy to master. No rattle that others are experiencing.

Can't wait until dark!

Jeff


----------



## xpitxbullx

Question:

Does this light have a voltage cutoff or just the blinking voltage indicators?

Jeff


----------



## AVService

Mine just showed up too!
What a little ingot of light!!!

It seems simple enough to operate to me but I am not going to hand it off to anyone not like us for sure.
I also can not wait until darkness comes.

Oh and mine rattles like hell too.


----------



## RBH

Post deleted


xpitxbullx said:


> Question:
> 
> Does this light have a voltage cutoff or just the blinking voltage indicators?
> 
> Jeff


----------



## daywalker

markr6 said:


> I just tried this but everything seems OK on mine.
> 
> And after a few more days using this, I just have to say this button and UI is awesome!! I can't decide if I like Zebralight's or this one better. ZL wins for ability to start with low setting. NC wins for momentary on. Both are great for accessing modes quickly without a lot of hassle. Even thought you can't always tell which mode the EA4 is in with a half press, it's so quick to change it doesn't really matter.




Usually it should start in the mode you used when you shut it off.


----------



## pyro1son

Ordered one of these beasts myself today. Can not wait for it to arrive and have a little play!
So exciting, haven't had a new flashlight in a while!


----------



## daywalker

stp said:


> Ok guys, speaking about the interface. I read the manual and it's kinda like in case of zebra light hard to say how complicated it is in real life usage. I don't have problem with ZL but my father had. And I'm looking for 4xAA light for him.
> 
> So what do you think, will EA4 be easy enough to use for older non flashoholic who had problem with ZL interface in the past? Yes I know about Sunwayman M40A but I'm waiting for them to offer variable interface becouse it would be the best for him I think. Currently I'm considering EA4 or V10/V11 A/R+extender.



I would say for the normal modes, it is easy. Full click when you need the power, with a easy step down to high. Or a half press several times for different power. A bit more complicated to get to the SOS-mode or the other specials.


----------



## grepeyre

daywalker said:


> I would say for the normal modes, it is easy. Full click when you need the power, with a easy step down to high. Or a half press several times for different power. *A bit more complicated to get to the SOS-mode or the other specials.*



Which is great, I noticed quite a few flashaholics weren't specially fond of these modes. I myself don't care for the SOS but I'd like to see how the strobe is


----------



## moldyoldy

perhaps an odd question, but concerning the advertized 860 lumen output of the Nitecore EA4: Usually the warm- or neutral-white LEDs have a lower output than the cool-white LEDs. Does the Nitecore EA4 nominally produce 860 lumens in _both_ the cool-white and in the neutral-white version?


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

moldyoldy said:


> perhaps an odd question, but concerning the advertized 860 lumen output of the Nitecore EA4: Usually the warm- or neutral-white LEDs have a lower output than the cool-white LEDs. Does the Nitecore EA4 nominally produce 860 lumens in _both_ the cool-white and in the neutral-white version?



There is a note on the EA4 specs that the NW has a lower output than the CW, but no specs are given. If I had to guess, based on the lowered output of other NW lights, I would say the EA4 NW makes ~780 lumens. However, in the German video, as some have pointed out, the NW clearly looks brighter than the CW, so who knows!


----------



## windsurf

moldyoldy said:


> perhaps an odd question, but concerning the advertized 860 lumen output of the Nitecore EA4: Usually the warm- or neutral-white LEDs have a lower output than the cool-white LEDs. Does the Nitecore EA4 nominally produce 860 lumens in _both_ the cool-white and in the neutral-white version?





ThirstyTurtle said:


> There is a note on the EA4 specs that the NW has a lower output than the CW, but no specs are given. If I had to guess, based on the lowered output of other NW lights, I would say the EA4 NW makes ~780 lumens. However, in the German video, as some have pointed out, the NW clearly looks brighter than the CW, so who knows!



I agree about the NW lumens. Estimating from the Cree XM-L charts between U2 (CW only) and T6, I estimated 750-800 ANSI for the NW. That falls in line with another light I had looked at where the mfr gave LED and ANSI lms for both his U2 and T6s. I personally think the NW looks brighter in the german video, but could be due to camera color sensitivity, battery condition, or the lighty falling snow.

I'm happy with my NW EA4!


----------



## RBH

Would the lower lumens of the NW help run time any ?


----------



## windsurf

RBH said:


> Would the lower lumens of the NW help run time any ?


Runtime shouldn't change. The drive current is the same, but the NW is a lower bin (T6) vs (U2) since the NW and WW fabrication cuts the visible light a bit.


----------



## RBH

Thanks


----------



## moldyoldy

Thanks for the answers about the EA4 lumens of CW vs NW. I like the compact size very much and the "low" does not bother my old eyes that need more lumens. Still debating with myself about how long to wait before ordering. Nearly any newly released light has an "improvement" or two after the first production run is in the hands of flashaholics. All TBD.


----------



## grepeyre

I was thinking of getting some eneloops, any suggestions as to which work best and longer in the EA4? Black XX?


----------



## markr6

I've been using 2000mAh Eneloops over the past 5 years, but I just recently bought a pack of the XX 2500mAh specifically for this torch. They work great and seem like they were made for something like this! Plus it puts the whole 4-pack to use right away 

I'm about 30 minutes away from a test cycle finishing on mine BC700 charger right now. They are all showing around 2520mAh, and the voltage is around 1.32 so I'm happy to see these will probably have an actual capacity of at least 2550mAh or more!

I think the XX batteries are worth the extra price for something that sucks power like this.


----------



## applevision

markr6 said:


> I've been using 2000mAh Eneloops over the past 5 years, but I just recently bought a pack of the XX 2500mAh specifically for this torch. They work great and seem like they were made for something like this! Plus it puts the whole 4-pack to use right away
> 
> I'm about 30 minutes away from a test cycle finishing on mine BC700 charger right now. They are all showing around 2520mAh, and the voltage is around 1.32 so I'm happy to see these will probably have an actual capacity of at least 2550mAh or more!
> 
> I think the XX batteries are worth the extra price for something that sucks power like this.



+1 on this, I am using the XX batts and feel that it is worth it!


----------



## grepeyre

Sweet (like Cartman would say)  I was hoping for that answer, I'll order a set soon. 

I've never used Eneloops before, about time to. I can't think of a better flashlight to try them on hehe The neighbors better hold on to their eye masks


----------



## xpitxbullx

Just purchased my first enloops. XX coming in the mail next week. Also got a nice charger on the way for them with independent charging stations, etc.

Until then, my Energizer 2500's will have to do.

Jeff


----------



## WadeF

RBH said:


> Would the lower lumens of the NW help run time any ?



If the driver is the same, if you simply swap in a less efficient emitter, which the NW is, then you get less light and more heat and the same run time, unless the extra heat further reduces efficiency. 

I picked up the cool white 860 lumen version for Christmas. It's an awesome flashlight for the money.  I love the 2-stage button and the UI. At first it's a bit much, but if you take the time to figure it out and play with it for a little you'll find it's not very difficult. The strobe, sos, and beacon modes are easy to access, but you won't access them accidentally, or have to cycle through them if you just want to cycle between the regular modes. You can lock the flashlight off to avoid parasitic drain or accidental activation. The instructions state 3 quick clicks to turn it on after it's been locked off, but I found that didn't work and instead I have to click and hold the button until it turns on. It's a well thought out UI, and the blinking button is nice for finding the light in a dark room. I'm tempted to pick up a 2nd one in NW.


----------



## ThirstyTurtle

Well I got my neutral white version yesterday and let me just say that THIS IS MY NEW FAVORITE LIGHT.

This partially sucks because I _just_ got a Solarforce L2T with a custom XM-L dropin from vinhnguyen54 and the poor guy only got to be my favorite light for about a week before being replaced by the EA4. Granted, the EA4 isn't as portable but this thing is WONDERFUL! THE most beautiful beam I've EVER seen with an amazing mixture of flood vs. throw (closer to throw) with an immensely usable spill. And, although the low is a bit to high (I think much higher than the claimed 65 lumens as it lights up my whole back yard decently) you don't need a truly LOW low in a light this size (that's what small EDC's are for). So the interface took about 5 minutes to get used to but I've already nailed it and used it to take my dog on a walk last night and LOVED being able to light up the entire roadway in front of me and "peer" into the woods with the turbo mode in search of anything that may go bump in the night. It easily slides into a pocket if you need it to (not to carry around but I started the walk at dusk and didn't need the light). It's truly wonderful and I love it! Glad I went for neutral white, it's my favorite tinted light now :0)


----------



## LEDmodMan

_Finally_ got the three I ordered on Friday. :shakehead The instruction sheet on all three have the incorrect directions for exiting lockout mode. FWIW, these all came from the original Battery Junction pre-order which was delayed by several weeks. The S/N's are between 21205835200xx and 21205835202xx, with one from each group of 100 (one 0xx, one 1xx, and one 2xx).

-------------------------------------------

ALL three exhibit the bezel gap shown a few pages back. Also, ALL three have the head rattle (no batteries installed, switch held down). I am confident that this is NOT the switch as the Sysmax rep has told us. INSTEAD, I am pretty confident (and a bit concerned) that it is the *REFLECTOR which is rattling around inside of the head.* :green: :sick2:

On one of the lights (1xx), you can actually see the reflector moving around just the tiniest bit inside of the head when you look at it out in the daylight. Without removing the bezel, I can't confirm this 100%, but I'd say that I am 95% confident that this is what is rattling, which seems unfortunate. This tells me that the reflector is machined to fit tightly inside the head, but that they have not put any pressure on it to hold it in place (no foam, no sticky). This _might_ be intentional, as it does not seem to affect beam quality whatsoever, but until they say otherwise we will not know for sure.

Finally, all three of them have the funny 3 minute-delayed tacticool decoy mode previously mentioned.

Having said all of that, I am pretty happy with the light overall!!  The CW's I have are a nice clean white color, but toward the edge of the spill they do exhibit a slight purplish hue.

It can be seen why the spill is this color if you carefully look into the side of the reflector from the opposite side of the light with it turned on low. Hold the light out in front of you at about eye level, turn it on low, and shine it up at the ceiling. Slowly lower the light and look into the far side of the reflector. Once you get it to the correct level (where the very edge of the spill is in your eyes), you will see a reflection of the LED which appears to be *diffracted* by the slight machine marks in the reflector, and the reflection shows up in the violet through deep blue color range (the machine marks act as a type of diffraction grating, and the spacing of these lines determines the color reflected). That is my scientific explanation anyway. :duh2: I don't think that the lens coating has anything to do with it, but I _could_ be wrong. :shrug: If you start to tip the light toward yourself (carefully!!!), just before the LED comes into view this diffraction will coalesce into a brighter spot where the colors are more apparent and go into the lighter blue range.

Anyway, these EA4's seem pretty hard to beat for the money and the fact that they only use 4 AA batteries! oo: I'm happy with my purchase even with the minor issues they seem to have (really, these are just nitpicks).


----------



## LEDmodMan

RBH said:


> The rattle mystery has been solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Image and disassembly credit go to Craig at Illumination Supply.



Just thought this needed to be posted here. I didn't read it until now, and coulda saved myself some time dorking around with the three lights I have. Looks like I might need to tighten one of my EA4's since I can just see the reflector moving, and that might not be the cause of the rattling issue.


----------



## andrew-amanda

sbbsga said:


> I found the manual. http://www.nitecore.com/UploadFile/Files/download/1-1_EA4_UM_EN.pdf


One thing I noticed and want to remind everyone, I suggest to read the manual and understand your light's user interface. The switch is electronic, like a camera shutter release. It is not a manual switch. It is not meant to be hard to push. And the switch light is a beacon to help you find the light in the dark when in standby mode. It uses a very tiny amount of power and would take months to drain a set of batteries. You can however turn it off if you want. Look up lockout mode in the manual.


----------



## Skyraider59

xpitxbullx said:


> Just purchased my first enloops. XX coming in the mail next week. Also got a nice charger on the way for them with independent charging stations, etc.
> 
> Until then, my Energizer 2500's will have to do.
> 
> Jeff



Eneloop XX , are the way to go with the EA4, here is a test on high originally posted on another CPF EA4 thread 

www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?351365-Nitecore-EA4-Pioneer-(cool-white)-review

This was done in high mode, the batteries used were 3 month old Eneloop Black Xx 2500mAh.
Batteries were fully charged prior insertion, and reading on my volt meter, 1.44, 1.44, 1.44 and 1.43V total 5.75v
Once inserted, the EA4 did give me a 5 flashes, a one second pause and another 8 flashes indicating the total voltage to be 5.8v (spot on!)
The battery was inserted into my home made integration sphere and switch on HIGH MODE 550lumens, THE first reading of 45700 Lux was taken 30 seconds after and every 5mn after. By 15mn the light was getting hot, to heat testing equipment but I would guess about 40 degree Celsius, I decided to switch my fan on and position the EA4 in front of it moving it to the sphere every 5mn for taking a lux reading. By 110 mn I noticed that the low voltage blue fast flashing was on . (This may have come earlier and was not noticed?????) 

By 113mn I could visibly see the output dropping
113mn 36800 Lux 
114mn 28000 Lux
115mn 22000 Lux and decided to turn the EA4 off

10mn Later, I took another reading on high showing me 22000 Lux, the end cap was removed and refitted to get a volt reading, this was 4 flashes and another 6 indicating the voltage to be 4.6v. The batteries were removed and tested with a voltmeter, 1.16, 1.15, 1.14, 1.13,giving me a total of 4.58v The EA4 volt checker is accurate!












So to recap, with Eneloop 2500mAh, I got a constant 45000 Lux for 1H 50mn, not quite the 2 hours but I personally thing this is pretty impressive, This is very well regulated and I think they have also got the heat dispersion well sorted with this one piece large head/ body. 


Got some eneloop white also, so I will try to find time to do a run test to see the difference.


----------



## CreeCrazy

The Eneloop XX will probably give the longest runtime, but considering they are about twice as much as the regular Eneloops I usually use regular Eneloops unless I really need the extra runtime. If I going camping or gonna be away from home then I'll throw in a set of the Eneloop XX for the absolute best performance.


----------



## herosemblem

Which is the one that Costco sells? Thanks. I remember seeing them, and maybe even an included charger too at that store.


----------



## CreeCrazy

The Eneloop XX are black and the regular Eneloops are white.


----------



## markr6

CreeCrazy said:


> The Eneloop XX will probably give the longest runtime, but considering they are about twice as much as the regular Eneloops I usually use regular Eneloops unless I really need the extra runtime. If I going camping or gonna be away from home then I'll throw in a set of the Eneloop XX for the absolute best performance.



Perfect logic right there. I only have 4 XX Eneloops right now (for the EA4) and dozens of regulars for everything else.


----------



## AVService

herosemblem said:


> Which is the one that Costco sells? Thanks. I remember seeing them, and maybe even an included charger too at that store.



Costco has the regular 2000M ones but they are Green and Blue instead of white.
The charger is not included but they do have the cheap Sanyo charger for under $10.00 next to the Batteries.


----------



## herosemblem

Thanks AVservice!
Anyone actually used these Costco eneloops with their EA4?


----------



## LEDmodMan

AVService said:


> Costco has the regular 2000M ones but they are Green and Blue instead of white.
> The charger is not included but they do have the cheap Sanyo charger for under $10.00 next to the Batteries.



Back when Costco sold the white Eneloop batteries, there was a set which included a basic charger. I have several of them.

My alkalines which BJ included (Panasonic branded) have finally gotten to the point where there is no turbo mode. Still plenty bright though. Once these are done for, I'm switching to Eneloops.


----------



## AVService

herosemblem said:


> Thanks AVservice!
> Anyone actually used these Costco eneloops with their EA4?



I am.


----------



## atbglenn

herosemblem said:


> Thanks AVservice!
> Anyone actually used these Costco eneloops with their EA4?



I am. I haven't done a runtime test yet but they work fine so far


----------



## KirthGersen

If they produce a version with a low mode, I'll buy it. I can't see spending so much money on a hobbled light.


----------



## sbbsga

I just found out that the LED on both my EA4's are lit up very dimly during the voltage readings - switch lock-out and tail cap reconnection. The same thing happens on my TM15W too. But they are off after that.


----------



## AVService

KirthGersen said:


> If they produce a version with a low mode, I'll buy it. I can't see spending so much money on a hobbled light.



Isn't everything really about comprimises?
So this light has no real low mode but it does have a blinding output from standard readily available and inexpensive batteries which does seem to define a new class of light somewhat.

I like my HDS Rotary because the interface does offer the absolute best option for really having it any way you want with both flexible presets and complete variable control at the same time.
It does not however feature the blinding output and throw of the EA4 and it does not use AA batteries.

I don't like it any less for the differences at all.

I also love my SC600w and it does provide high output with a varied assortment of really low modes but again only on less than common batteries.

This is why we are here in the first place,isn't it?


----------



## KirthGersen

AVService said:


> Isn't everything really about comprimises?


Sometimes a missed opportunity or poor design choice is just that. There was no design tradeoff in choosing not to implement a proper low mode, just thoughtlessness as to how the light would be used by many people. As close as it is to "great" in my book, it's not great without a low mode. I like many things about the light (form factor, battery type, waterproofing / build, lockout mode, etc.), but will wait until they fix that design flaw. Hopefully someone will read up on prospective customer feelings when designing the next version. I am also avoiding the Fandyfire Rook because of the glaring lack of a low mode. I don't intend to drop a non-negligible amount of money on a light that I consider to be uselessly hobbled.


----------



## grepeyre

Thanks for all the info on the eneloops.

I somewhat agree that it would have been kind of the ultimate light to have had it included a lower low (or a much lower low). But from my perspective, I would pick up the EA4 only if I knew I was needing serious lighting like going for a walk and checking things out outside. I have a 78lm torch at the moment and I find that it's the bare minimum for that kind of job, so a lowest of 65lm seems no problem. I probably wouldn't use it on any lower setting than that had it included one.

For round the house things like not bothering people at night by turning on all the lights or checking the weird rattling noise behind the fridge or whatnot I've also ordered an EC1. Very small and handy. The combo of these two should be pretty much what someone would need in terms of lighting I would think.

Then after that the TM-15


----------



## Tybo22

This light is being marketed as a searchlight. Working SAR I dont need or want a lower low than 65 lumens. When mine arrives it will be a utility belt light to go along with my main fenix tk75. I love moonlight and firefly modes but not in a searchlight. Just my opinion.


----------



## Timothybil

Happy New Year everyone! It's 2am and 1F out here in the wilds of Iowa, and I just got back from running #1 son over to his girl friend's house. I just got my NW EA4 from the Post Office this morning, and loaded it with a set of 2022 EA91s. I left it in the car all day, and took it out just now when I got home, so you know it was cold. Did some distance shots and it really is a nice little pocket searchlight. Easily lit things up 175 m away. But the really interesting part was that after about 5 minutes of play out in the cold, it showed 5.8 volts when I put it into lockout. Yet when I pulled one of the cells 5 min later to get the date off of it, it showed 6.2 v when I put it back together. Amazingly resilient little cells, aren't they.

I personally think 65lm is fine for a low. When I was walking back to the apartment from playing around, it was just enough to light up the ground around me. If I need anything less than that, that's why I carry my SL ProTac EMS (3.6, 10, & 60 lm).

On an unrelated topic, does anyone know what the two long numbers are trying to tell us?

PS: No rattles.


----------



## Devildude

Tybo22 said:


> This light is being marketed as a searchlight. Working SAR I dont need or want a lower low than 65 lumens. When mine arrives it will be a utility belt light to go along with my main fenix tk75. I love moonlight and firefly modes but not in a searchlight. Just my opinion.


I for one would have to agree, this light just about perfect in its current design. If you want a moonlight mode get a smaller light, for outdoors the low is just right for walking and turbo is just a press away for anything that goes bump in the night.


----------



## dc38

Timothybil said:


> Happy New Year everyone! It's 2am and 1F out here in the wilds of Iowa, and I just got back from running #1 son over to his girl friend's house. I just got my NW EA4 from the Post Office this morning, and loaded it with a set of 2022 EA91s. I left it in the car all day, and took it out just now when I got home, so you know it was cold. Did some distance shots and it really is a nice little pocket searchlight. Easily lit things up 175 m away. But the really interesting part was that after about 5 minutes of play out in the cold, it showed 5.8 volts when I put it into lockout. Yet when I pulled one of the cells 5 min later to get the date off of it, it showed 6.2 v when I put it back together. Amazingly resilient little cells, aren't they.
> 
> I personally think 65lm is fine for a low. When I was walking back to the apartment from playing around, it was just enough to light up the ground around me. If I need anything less than that, that's why I carry my SL ProTac EMS (3.6, 10, & 60 lm).
> 
> On an unrelated topic, does anyone know what the two long numbers are trying to tell us?
> 
> PS: No rattles.



I stopped for a sec after reading that you " just got back from running #1 son over" lol. Did the light make a nice hand warmer in that super freezing temperature?


----------



## markr6

Tybo22 said:


> This light is being marketed as a searchlight. Working SAR I dont need or want a lower low than 65 lumens. When mine arrives it will be a utility belt light to go along with my main fenix tk75. I love moonlight and firefly modes but not in a searchlight. Just my opinion.



Agreed. And I'm going to guess you have a backup stashed away (and another backup to the backup?) anyway, which could serve other tasks with lower lumens. Trying to have an "all-in-one" would be a very risky situation in a potentially dangerous situation.


----------



## markone

atbglenn said:


> I'm a bit disappointed with my EA4 I received today. It looks like the bezel was either cross-threaded, or the threads were cut un-square on the body. Plus there's a rattle even when I remove the tailcap and batteries, with the switch depressed as well. Anyone else notice this?



Talking about the "uneven" bezel my fresh EA4 (received yesterday from UK) had the same defect, but i solved unscrewing (with the aid of a rubber foil) and screwing it with some care.

It took a couple of minutes.

The cause of misplacement is the "play" between threads, no signs of cross-threading or CNC machining errors.

The rattle is detectable only under heavy shaking action.

Apart the fixed bezel problem, i love the UI and the flashlight is performing in amazing way, considering size and battery type.

Sure it's worth also at EU price (75-80E).

Right now my only concern is about the switch assembly working life ....time will tell !


----------



## RBH

That is my only concern. 



markone said:


> Right now my only concern is about the switch assembly working life ....time will tell !


----------



## Verndog

KirthGersen said:


> I don't intend to drop a non-negligible amount of money on a light that I consider to be uselessly hobbled.



Wow....uselessly hobbled? So more light is more useless then less light? Are you blind by chance?

Just ordered mine (NW on backorder), and the 65 low is a non issue given the MAIN PURPOSE of this light for my uses. In fact 65 lumens is a very good indoor mode for me, if I need less then that I have other correct tools for that job.


----------



## KirthGersen

Devildude said:


> I for one would have to agree, this light just about perfect in its current design. If you want a moonlight mode get a smaller light, for outdoors the low is just right for walking and turbo is just a press away for anything that goes bump in the night.


Describing a failure to include a proper low mode as a plus is just denying the obvious; a light without a proper low mode is not just about perfect. A moonlight mode would be all right in addition, but at least I'd like to see a light which doesn't imply that people need a wasteful _65 lumens_ to see one's way in the dark, etc.. Nor is it a meaningful answer to state that I can carry another light to remedy this failing. Of course I can-- the point is that I don't intend to carry two lights because one of them is hobbled; I'll wait for the non-hobbled one.


----------



## KirthGersen

Verndog said:


> Wow....uselessly hobbled? So more light is more useless then less light? Are you blind by chance?


No, I just tend to state the obvious without blinding myself. You obviously don't like it when anyone "insults" your gear, but I take a more rational approach. If you go back and read my post again, maybe you'll get it. The point is that the silly absence of a real low mode wasn't based on a useful design tradeoff; it's just a dumb oversight that makes the light less all-around useful. Sorry you self-identify with your lights so much, but sense is sense.


----------



## KirthGersen

markr6 said:


> Agreed. And I'm going to guess you have a backup stashed away (and another backup to the backup?) anyway, which could serve other tasks with lower lumens. Trying to have an "all-in-one" would be a very risky situation in a potentially dangerous situation.


These arguments that one should ignore a missing feature by carrying more lights just don't make sense to me. Let's consider your backup argument: of course I have backup lights. We have backups because the primary light may fail, not to use because the primary light has missing features. In this case if your "backup" were to fail, you'd be left without a proper low mode.

The point is that there was no useful purpose in leaving out a low mode in this light. For general purpose use, I'd rather have one all-around useful light to carry instead of a bunch of lights because features were left out which should have been included on some of them. That's the reason that I usually carry just one light in my pocket, instead of one for throw, one for spill, etc. I also tend to just put one light in my glove box, which I would also like to not be hobbled by failure to include features that would have been involved no drawbacks to include.

There's just no way to spin the failure to include a low mode so that it makes sense. Some can pretend they would never use it (because they like to waste battery life, I guess the argument runs); some can pretend that they would prefer carrying multiple lights. None of this comes off as anything but a heap of rationalizations for a design flaw.


----------



## KirthGersen

Timothybil said:


> I personally think 65lm is fine for a low. When I was walking back to the apartment from playing around, it was just enough to light up the ground around me.


65 lumens is never "just enough to light up the ground" around a person, for anyone with properly working eyes. With night adapted eyes 1-3 lumens is plenty for lighting the ground around a person, enough to serve as an aid in night hiking, and I know of some people that would use even less. There is a vast gulf between 1-3 lumens or so and night-vision destroying, battery-wasting 65 lumens. A low mode of around 10 lumens, multiplying maximum battery runtime by around six times, would make so much sense that the failure to include it ignores how many people use their lights. 

Witness the many complaints about the lack of a low mode; Nitecore's sales are reduced by this obvious lack. Sure, the light is nice in many ways. I'll just wait for the light of this type that's not hobbled by the lack of a low mode. Hopefully that's an EA4 with an updated driver; this flaw is fortunately easy to correct.


----------



## applevision

Not to fuel any flaming here, but I agree that a low-low would make this light even better! 

BUT, and here's the big BUT... what if in order to do this, other trade-offs would truly hamper the light, perhaps by making it less efficient overall? I don't know this for a fact, but wonder if this is not a real possibility from overhearing others who know about design. Part of the reason Zebralight is so special, for example, is that they seem to be able to get a huge range of light with insane efficiency... but I suppose that it is possible that this is not an easy task! We sort of take it for granted. 

Anyway, I'd love to hear from Nitecore about this, and I still maintain that this is an amazing light, and still my current favorite of my entire collection! For my purposes, it is truly *perfect*, but as with all tools, some are better suited for certain tasks than others... so YMMV.


----------



## markr6

KirthGersen said:


> These arguments that one should ignore a missing feature by carrying more lights just don't make sense to me. Let's consider your backup argument: of course I have backup lights. We have backups because the primary light may fail, not to use because the primary light has missing features. In this case if your "backup" were to fail, you'd be left without a proper low mode.
> 
> The point is that there was no useful purpose in leaving out a low mode in this light. For general purpose use, I'd rather have one all-around useful light to carry instead of a bunch of lights because features were left out which should have been included on some of them. That's the reason that I usually carry just one light in my pocket, instead of one for throw, one for spill, etc. I also tend to just put one light in my glove box, which I would also like to not be hobbled by failure to include features that would have been involved no drawbacks to include.
> 
> There's just no way to spin the failure to include a low mode so that it doesn't make sense. Some can pretend they would never use it (because they like to waste battery life, I guess the argument runs); some can pretend that they would prefer carrying multiple lights. None of this comes off as anything but a heap of rationalizations for a design flaw.



Good points, I agree with you here as well. I'm sure most owners would want a lower mode. But can we agree that if the light did have a moonlight mode, lets say 1 lumen, people would be complaining about the gap between 1lm and 65lm? So we add something like a 20 lumen mode - now we're up to six modes to cycle through which would probably also get many complaints. We could cut out one of the higher modes, but then that would make others upset.

I guess we'll never be 100% satisifed, but agree it was an oversight to make 65lm the lowest mode. Although not "moonlight", an extra 15lm mode would be perfect in my opinion.


----------



## Timothybil

dc38 said:


> I stopped for a sec after reading that you " just got back from running #1 son over" lol. Did the light make a nice hand warmer in that super freezing temperature?



Nah, that's what gloves are for. And super freezing around here doesn't start till about -10F!


----------



## Verndog

KirthGersen said:


> No, I just tend to state the obvious without blinding myself. You obviously don't like it when anyone "insults" your gear, but I take a more rational approach. If you go back and read my post again, maybe you'll get it. The point is that the silly absence of a real low mode wasn't based on a useful design tradeoff; it's just a dumb oversight that makes the light less all-around useful. Sorry you self-identify with your lights so much, but sense is sense.



I don't need to read you post again, I get it...BUT I totally disagree. I have a similar light LD41 U2 that has just what your looking for. 5 lumen low. *I have never used it in low*, and just gets in my way as I have to cycle past it. If I need a little bit of light, I don't grab for a 4 cell...period. It's like driving a semi to the corner grocery for a soda...wrong tool for the job. Food for thought....I have NEVER blinded myself even on turbo. I point the light to the ground when I turn it on....works awesome!


----------



## Yourfun2

+1 Bump


----------



## CreeCrazy

KirthGersen said:


> If they produce a version with a low mode, I'll buy it. I can't see spending so much money on a hobbled light.



I do agree a lower low would have been nice, but you are really missing out on a great light. This has quickly became my go to light for around the house, walk the dog light. It's not perfect, but no light is.


----------



## KirthGersen

Verndog said:


> I don't need to read you post again, I get it...BUT I totally disagree. I have a similar light LD41 U2 that has just what your looking for. 5 lumen low. I have never used it in low, and just gets in my way as I have to cycle past it. If I need a little bit of light, I don't grab for a 4 cell...period. It's like driving a semi to the corner grocery for a soda...wrong tool for the job. Food for thought....I have NEVER blinded myself even on turbo. I point the light to the ground when I turn it on....works awesome!


That would destroy night vision. 'Nuff said on that score, I think. Yes, you're right that what I would like is something like an LD41/PA40 in an EA4 package, and if those were to have the same beam characteristics and power of the EA4, no one would call them "not a searchlight" in comparison merely because they offer low modes. I simply want a compact, powerful all-rouner, and the EA4 would be nearly perfect for me except for the missing low mode. So I grouse, not to p*** off early adopters of the EA4, but because I want rational discussion of the light to include these ideas, in case someone is listening, and because I am sad at a missed opportunity that doesn't make much sense.

Using a low mode when useful, on a light that includes one, is more like driving one's car to one's destination in the proper gear, instead of burning a bunch of gas by being in the wrong gear.


----------



## KirthGersen

markr6 said:


> Good points, I agree with you here as well. I'm sure most owners would want a lower mode. But can we agree that if the light did have a moonlight mode, lets say 1 lumen, people would be complaining about the gap between 1lm and 65lm? So we add something like a 20 lumen mode - now we're up to six modes to cycle through which would probably also get many complaints. We could cut out one of the higher modes, but then that would make others upset.
> 
> I guess we'll never be 100% satisifed, but agree it was an oversight to make 65lm the lowest mode. Although not "moonlight", an extra 15lm mode would be perfect in my opinion.


I agree. The higher the max power, the more mode placement and number can become an issue, perhaps increasing the desirability of programmability/configurability or other features like infinitely variable adjustment. I also realize that you can't please everyone. 15lm would make a lot of sense to me-- plenty for lighting one's way in the dark, reading, etc. while greatly multiplying the runtime of the light.

I also admit the EA4 is a pretty nice package even without a proper low mode. I just hope they add one, to make it nearly perfect for me. I'm done buying flashlights for a couple of months anyway, so I plan to wait and see what the future brings.


----------



## dc38

KirthGersen said:


> I agree. The higher the max power, the more mode placement and number can become an issue, perhaps increasing the desirability of programmability/configurability or other features like infinitely variable adjustment. I also realize that you can't please everyone. 15lm would make a lot of sense to me-- plenty for lighting one's way in the dark, reading, etc. while greatly multiplying the runtime of the light.
> 
> I also admit the EA4 is a pretty nice package even without a proper low mode. I just hope they add one, to make it nearly perfect for me. I'm done buying flashlights for a couple of months anyway, so I plan to wait and see what the future brings.



I would love to see a lower mode with longer runtime as well, say, a 3 lumen for 300 hours...however, this would either compromise the runtimes or output in either the lower or higher modes...this is marketed as an outdoor "explorer" searchlight. While a lower mode would be great for extended runtimes and preservation of night vision, 65 lumens IMO would be the bare minimum for Searching/sweeping an area for something/ someone outdoors. It's not marketed as an edc for the average person, and there are other lights to supplement this one. But imagine if only they DID include a firefly mode that could run for months...maybe the next model will have a dual driver with amp monitoring to switch between the modes and sub modes? Just an idea lol, I'm too tired to try...it might be a lucrative idea


----------



## jomox

dc38 said:


> I would love to see a lower mode with longer runtime as well, say, a 3 lumen for 300 hours...however, this would either compromise the runtimes or output in either the lower or higher modes...this is marketed as an outdoor "explorer" searchlight. While a lower mode would be great for extended runtimes and preservation of night vision, 65 lumens IMO would be the bare minimum for Searching/sweeping an area for something/ someone outdoors. It's not marketed as an edc for the average person, and there are other lights to supplement this one. But imagine if only they DID include a firefly mode that could run for months...maybe the next model will have a dual driver with amp monitoring to switch between the modes and sub modes? Just an idea lol, I'm too tired to try...it might be a lucrative idea



Well said that man.


----------



## atbglenn

markone said:


> Talking about the "uneven" bezel my fresh EA4 (received yesterday from UK) had the same defect, but i solved unscrewing (with the aid of a rubber foil) and screwing it with some care.
> 
> It took a couple of minutes.
> 
> The cause of misplacement is the "play" between threads, no signs of cross-threading or CNC machining errors.
> 
> The rattle is detectable only under heavy shaking action.
> 
> Apart the fixed bezel problem, i love the UI and the flashlight is performing in amazing way, considering size and battery type.
> 
> Sure it's worth also at EU price (75-80E).
> 
> Right now my only concern is about the switch assembly working life ....time will tell !



I'm glad you were able to fix yours. Illumination Supply sent me a replacement which I received yesterday Still has a slight rattle ,but the bezel is perfect. I'm now extremely happy with this light.


----------



## Verndog

KirthGersen said:


> ...I simply want a compact, powerful all-rouner, and the EA4 would be nearly perfect for me except for the missing low mode.



And all I'm saying is for me and my use as a compact "outdoor distance" light it's perfect for me as is. If I was concerned about "night vision", I would not carry only a 860 lumen search light...but that's me. If they're going after a certain market niche then the first and foremost objective is to be very good there, then attempt to add usefulness to others that may overlap. They've done that IMO, and anything under 25 lumens is useless for me for an on the go outdoor light.


----------



## Tybo22

dc38 said:


> I would love to see a lower mode with longer runtime as well, say, a 3 lumen for 300 hours...however, this would either compromise the runtimes or output in either the lower or higher modes...this is marketed as an outdoor "explorer" searchlight. While a lower mode would be great for extended runtimes and preservation of night vision, 65 lumens IMO would be the bare minimum for Searching/sweeping an area for something/ someone outdoors. It's not marketed as an edc for the average person, and there are other lights to supplement this one. But imagine if only they DID include a firefly mode that could run for months...maybe the next model will have a dual driver with amp monitoring to switch between the modes and sub modes? Just an idea lol, I'm too tired to try...it might be a lucrative idea




+1 this it what I said in my earlier post. Not an EDC light.....its a searchlight. If you are looking for an EDC with moonlight and firefly modes look elsewhere.


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## KirthGersen

Tybo22 said:


> +1 this it what I said in my earlier post. Not an EDC light.....its a searchlight. If you are looking for an EDC with moonlight and firefly modes look elsewhere.


The problem with that is that it's just a rationalization. If the PA40 were missing a low mode as well, fans of the light could similarly rationalize it away by saying it's "just a searchlight". In reality the light is the same as it would be, except the low mode is missing, and it's a functional lack. I'm looking for a light like the EA4 with a proper low mode; and hopefully, due to so many people wanting a low mode, they will fix that problem in a future version.


----------



## grepeyre

KirthGersen said:


> Hopefully, due to so many people wanting a low mode, they will fix that problem in a future version.



It'll be called the EA4-A (the last A for awesome  )

By the way, has anyone done the 'Dropping in a glass of water' test on it yet? Cyclone/Rainy season is upon me, it'd be nice to know that it'll hold up.


----------



## GordoJones88

KirthGersen said:


> The problem with that is that it's just a rationalization. If the PA40 were missing a low mode as well, fans of the light could similarly rationalize it away by saying it's "just a searchlight". In reality the light is the same as it would be, except the low mode is missing, and it's a functional lack. I'm looking for a light like the EA4 with a proper low mode; and hopefully, due to so many people wanting a low mode, they will fix that problem in a future version.



Alright, you've posted this 9 times in just the last page.
Time for you to move on I think.


----------



## Tybo22

KirthGersen said:


> The problem with that is that it's just a rationalization. If the PA40 were missing a low mode as well, fans of the light could similarly rationalize it away by saying it's "just a searchlight". In reality the light is the same as it would be, except the low mode is missing, and it's a functional lack. I'm looking for a light like the EA4 with a proper low mode; and hopefully, due to so many people wanting a low mode, they will fix that problem in a future version.



The pa40 is only is only 468 lumens with a throw of 170m......not a good searchlight imo. I agree a low mode would be cool but not useful in a SAR flashlight. Excluding a lower mode is not a flaw or a problem for the lights intended use. If they make a new version with a moonlight mode great. For my personal edc light i carry a SWM v11r which has a low low mode which is great for a general edc light.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

grepeyre said:


> It'll be called the EA4-A (the last A for awesome  )
> 
> By the way, has anyone done the 'Dropping in a glass of water' test on it yet? Cyclone/Rainy season is upon me, it'd be nice to know that it'll hold up.



I filled my bathroom sink with water, and chucked it in.. no problem at all after 10 min (i had it running on high during said test). It showed no sign of not being able to go longer, so i figured it passed ok. I will also say i applied my own silicone grease to the threads, but that was just a personal preference..

And ironically, this (along with my backup LD01) IS now my EDC light (yeah, i am somewhat a nerd). I have it on my belt, where it sits unobtrusively, and it works fine (by trade, I am a computer programmer, but having grown up a boy scout and done SAR, i feel better having it regardless).


----------



## Verndog

Divine_Madcat said:


> ...And ironically, this (along with my backup LD01) IS now my EDC light (yeah, i am somewhat a nerd). I have it on my belt, where it sits unobtrusively, and it works fine (by trade, I am a computer programmer, but having grown up a boy scout and done SAR, i feel better having it regardless).



That's great that you find it compact enough for EDC. I read back a ways of 1 return because of accidental on and drained light while in the holster even...that concerned me a bit to be honest. Have you had no issues with it getting turned on, and do you orient the switch a certain way in holster to avoid that?


----------



## Divine_Madcat

No issues so far, but i will be keeping an eye on it, and will update if anything happens. I admit, i do try to make a mental note to lock it out (as best as possible), and to put the power button to a corner; but i can forget, and have had no issues yet.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

Tybo22 said:


> The pa40 is only is only 468 lumens with a throw of 170m......not a good searchlight imo. I agree a low mode would be cool but not useful in a SAR flashlight. Excluding a lower mode is not a flaw or a problem for the lights intended use. If they make a new version with a moonlight mode great. For my personal edc light i carry a SWM v11r which has a low low mode which is great for a general edc light.




I have to say I agree with you about 50% and disagree about 50%. I understand the lack of practicality of putting extremely low modes on a larger light that is designed as a searchlight, not a pocket carry light. But I am not 100% sure the EA4 is, or needs to be a 100% searchlight.(lots of percentages here huh?). For its fairly small size, it could just as well serve as an everyday "around the house" light or a home emergency light. Its really not "SAR sized" compared with most SAR lights which are larger. So it could be better with 1-2 low modes.

From the perspective of any company, you want as many sales as possible, so if you produce a light that is relatively small but powerful, why not make it useful for a wider range of people using it for a wider range of uses? My Friggin' Thrunite TN30, with its 2700+ lumens and significantly larger size, still has 2 low modes which are both lower than the EA4's low mode! They are: Low 1: 1 lumen, Low 2: 38 lumens. Is it _really_ practical to include a 1 lumen firefly mode on a fat searchlight like the TN30? Probably not, but hey, electronics are cheap, and it doesnt cost much more to give it a 1L and 38L modes.... So whats the downside of doing so, as long as you include proper medium and high modes?

So when talking about the _smaller_ EA4, it certainly makes much more sense to add at least 1 or 2 proper low modes. Again, its not that much more costly to do so because the slight difference in electronics needed to add those modes would only result in an insignificant increase in cost, which would certainly pay for itself by making the light more flexible and therefore more desirable to a wider group of customers.....


----------



## Verndog

HighlanderNorth said:


> ... it doesnt cost much more to give it a 1L and 38L modes.... So whats the downside of doing so, as long as you include proper medium and high modes?



One I can think of. You add more modes and you force every user to cycle though those modes to get to where he / she wants. More then 4 is overkill IMO and can lead to user frustration and additional switch wear. If they hid the low modes that many wont use then I'd still buy it.


----------



## markr6

HighlanderNorth said:


> I have to say I agree with you about 50% and disagree about 50%. I understand the lack of practicality of putting extremely low modes on a larger light that is designed as a searchlight, not a pocket carry light. But I am not 100% sure the EA4 is, or needs to be a 100% searchlight.(lots of percentages here huh?). For its fairly small size, it could just as well serve as an everyday "around the house" light or a home emergency light. Its really not "SAR sized" compared with most SAR lights which are larger. So it could be better with 1-2 low modes.From the perspective of any company, you want as many sales as possible, so if you produce a light that is relatively small but powerful, why not make it useful for a wider range of people using it for a wider range of uses? My Friggin' Thrunite TN30, with its 2700+ lumens and significantly larger size, still has 2 low modes which are both lower than the EA4's low mode! They are: Low 1: 1 lumen, Low 2: 38 lumens. Is it _really_ practical to include a 1 lumen firefly mode on a fat searchlight like the TN30? Probably not, but hey, electronics are cheap, and it doesnt cost much more to give it a 1L and 38L modes.... So whats the downside of doing so, as long as you include proper medium and high modes?So when talking about the _smaller_ EA4, it certainly makes much more sense to add at least 1 or 2 proper low modes. Again, its not that much more costly to do so because the slight difference in electronics needed to add those modes would only result in an insignificant increase in cost, which would certainly pay for itself by making the light more flexible and therefore more desirable to a wider group of customers.....


BOOM! Discussion over IMO  Very well put. I still love my EA4 more than any light, but not having a lower mode is like an itch I can't scratch. They came soooo close to perfect on this one for me.


----------



## mikekoz

HighlanderNorth said:


> I have to say I agree with you about 50% and disagree about 50%. I understand the lack of practicality of putting extremely low modes on a larger light that is designed as a searchlight, not a pocket carry light. But I am not 100% sure the EA4 is, or needs to be a 100% searchlight.(lots of percentages here huh?). For its fairly small size, it could just as well serve as an everyday "around the house" light or a home emergency light. Its really not "SAR sized" compared with most SAR lights which are larger. So it could be better with 1-2 low modes.
> 
> From the perspective of any company, you want as many sales as possible, so if you produce a light that is relatively small but powerful, why not make it useful for a wider range of people using it for a wider range of uses? My Friggin' Thrunite TN30, with its 2700+ lumens and significantly larger size, still has 2 low modes which are both lower than the EA4's low mode! They are: Low 1: 1 lumen, Low 2: 38 lumens. Is it _really_ practical to include a 1 lumen firefly mode on a fat searchlight like the TN30? Probably not, but hey, electronics are cheap, and it doesnt cost much more to give it a 1L and 38L modes.... So whats the downside of doing so, as long as you include proper medium and high modes?
> 
> So when talking about the _smaller_ EA4, it certainly makes much more sense to add at least 1 or 2 proper low modes. Again, its not that much more costly to do so because the slight difference in electronics needed to add those modes would only result in an insignificant increase in cost, which would certainly pay for itself by making the light more flexible and therefore more desirable to a wider group of customers.....




Well put! I am looking at this light myself, and the lack of a real low mode does not bother me so much, but I am kind of scratching my head why one is not there nevertheless. I just got a TK70 and it is HUGE, and has a 20 lumen mode! However, because of the size of this beast, I am not sure it would be the first light I would reach for if I just needed that much light! :nana: It seems to me that it would be more logical to put a real low mode on a light the size of the EA4, than one on a very large light like the TK70.


----------



## Verndog

mikekoz said:


> It seems to me that it would be more logical to put a real low mode on a light the size of the EA4, than one on a very large light like the TK70.



It's no mistake they did the same thing on a smaller single 18650 with less throw and intensity then the EA4. In this case for the smaller light that is more suitable for pocket carry I would agree they NEED a lower mode.

http://www.nitecore.com/UploadFile/Files/download/1-1_EC25_UM_EN.pdf


----------



## markr6

Verndog said:


> It's no mistake they did the same thing on a smaller single 18650 with less throw and intensity then the EA4. In this case for the smaller light that is more suitable for pocket carry I would agree they NEED a lower mode.http://www.nitecore.com/UploadFile/Files/download/1-1_EC25_UM_EN.pdf


You read my mind!! I was just looking at this light while browsing online. I'm not planning on purchasing it, just killing some time at work  I saw the 60lm mode and thought "WHAT!!??" I'll let it slide on the EA4, but on this one it just doesn't make sense. I really like the lights NC is putting out - hopefully it is a learning experience and something they will correct if they end up getting a lot of negative feedback.


----------



## Verndog

Heck, with the discount it's a couple bucks more then my Eagletac D25A (single A)....I might buy one just for the High / Mid and great UI.


----------



## Billspider

Today I received a Nitecore EA4W via Fedex. I paid $59.00 which included tax and shipping.
I didn't specify whether I wanted a Cool White or a Neutral White, I received Neutral White. Because I'm new to LED Flashlights, I doubt I could tell the difference unless they were side by side.

When I shake it vigorously it will emit a rattle. I don't plan on shaking it vigorously while in use, so the rattle doesn't bother me.
I could not be happier with this light especially at this price point. and it using AA Batteries.


----------



## markone

atbglenn said:


> I'm glad you were able to fix yours. Illumination Supply sent me a replacement which I received yesterday Still has a slight rattle ,but the bezel is perfect. I'm now extremely happy with this light.



_Illumination Supply_ is providing you with a great after sale service, but maybe you are one of its best loyal customers ;-)

Just one note about a detail that popped up when i unscrewed the bezel:

there is a thin transparent flat seal interposed between glass and bezel, not easy to keep in place when it's time to reassemble the head assy.

I did not removed the glass (dust is always in wait to jump inside flashlight reflectors ...) but i had the impression that bezel / body gap is due to wrong o-ring thickness plus above mentioned seal presence.

If someone has interest in it, there is hope to lower the gap changing the original o-ring with a thinner one.
I agree that the gap is not a big problem, but sure with the time it will tend to retain the dirt.

Changing the subject, i found a japanese webpage with an interesting mod of the flashlight UI led :

http://katokichi.cocolog-nifty.com/hitorigoto/2012/12/ea4-8bde.html

Thanks to the brave guy that took apart its own EA4 making photos, now it's clear how the switch assy is made.


----------



## markone

Billspider said:


> Today I received a Nitecore EA4W via Fedex. I paid $59.00 which included tax and shipping.
> -snip



$59.00 shipped .... is almost half the EU price 

At this cost i would consider mandatory to buy at least a couple !


----------



## markr6

markone said:


> $59.00 shipped .... is almost half the EU price
> 
> At this cost i would consider mandatory to buy at least a couple !



LOL I would too but everyone scared me with the rattle issue. Dare I spin the wheel and take a chance on getting another good one?


----------



## markone

markr6 said:


> LOL I would too but everyone scared me with the rattle issue. Dare I spin the wheel and take a chance on getting another good one?



Speaking about my copy of EA4 the rattle does not seem a problem at all if used by hand.

Maybe if you mount it on a MTB ....


----------



## markr6

markone said:


> Speaking about my copy of EA4 the rattle does not seem a problem at all if used by hand.
> 
> Maybe if you mount it on a MTB ....



Yeah I'm sure it's fine. But I'm one of those crazy people that would be shaking it all the time to make sure it's still there, getting annoyed.


----------



## MIKES250R

I love my EA4, the rattle is minimal. It does not bother me at all. I think the rattle thing is being blown way out of proportion. Just for poops and giggles I challenge you all to shake any flashlight and see if you hear a rattle. Most all of my other lights rattle a little, some of which cost much more than the EA4.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

Verndog said:


> One I can think of. You add more modes and you force every user to cycle though those modes to get to where he / she wants. More then 4 is overkill IMO and can lead to user frustration and additional switch wear. If they hid the low modes that many wont use then I'd still buy it.



Well they could always come up with a UI similar to Zebralights where 2/3 of the modes are hidden unless you double click to get to them or multiple double click. I get what you're saying though, as the one complaint I have about my Eagletac D25C is it "circular" UI where to get back to the mode you want(if you missed it) you literally have to click your way though each and every mode, including the 46 different SOS, beacons, strobes, metronomes, flashers, spinners and wazoos!


----------



## Verndog

HighlanderNorth said:


> Well they could always come up with a UI similar to Zebralights where 2/3 of the modes are hidden unless you double click to get to them or multiple double click. I get what you're saying though, as the one complaint I have about my Eagletac D25C is it "circular" UI where to get back to the mode you want(if you missed it) you literally have to click your way though each and every mode, including the 46 different SOS, beacons, strobes, metronomes, flashers, spinners and wazoos!



Can't you reset your way out of that strobing wormhole with a 2 second half press like my D25LC2 clicky? That reset trick wasn't in the manual, but it's there in the UI for those that are seconds from breaking glass.


----------



## Tybo22

HighlanderNorth said:


> I have to say I agree with you about 50% and disagree about 50%. I understand the lack of practicality of putting extremely low modes on a larger light that is designed as a searchlight, not a pocket carry light. But I am not 100% sure the EA4 is, or needs to be a 100% searchlight.(lots of percentages here huh?). For its fairly small size, it could just as well serve as an everyday "around the house" light or a home emergency light. Its really not "SAR sized" compared with most SAR lights which are larger. So it could be better with 1-2 low modes.
> 
> From the perspective of any company, you want as many sales as possible, so if you produce a light that is relatively small but powerful, why not make it useful for a wider range of people using it for a wider range of uses? My Friggin' Thrunite TN30, with its 2700+ lumens and significantly larger size, still has 2 low modes which are both lower than the EA4's low mode! They are: Low 1: 1 lumen, Low 2: 38 lumens. Is it _really_ practical to include a 1 lumen firefly mode on a fat searchlight like the TN30? Probably not, but hey, electronics are cheap, and it doesnt cost much more to give it a 1L and 38L modes.... So whats the downside of doing so, as long as you include proper medium and high modes?
> 
> So when talking about the _smaller_ EA4, it certainly makes much more sense to add at least 1 or 2 proper low modes. Again, its not that much more costly to do so because the slight difference in electronics needed to add those modes would only result in an insignificant increase in cost, which would certainly pay for itself by making the light more flexible and therefore more desirable to a wider group of customers.....



Thank you sir for agreeing with me some what.....I love my low modes and honestly if they made a ea4 with lower modes I would probably buy it as well because I have a problem when it comes to buying lights. I was only trying to point out that a lack of a low low mode is not a flaw or problem as stated earlier.


----------



## fatbrad

In some of selfbuilt's reviews of infinitely variable lights, he has discussed perceived brightness going with the cube root of the lumens or lux. If the progression on this light were 860, 400, 145, 30, 1 lumens then the perceived brightness should change by the same amount for every step. It would provide the low levels that some users desire without adding too many clicks to cycle to the level you want when higher levels are desired. Also, the daily mode has memory so you could avoid the low levels if you wanted. 

I just got mine today and it sure makes my Fenix LD25 seem dim. Most of my use will be walking dogs at night. I found the spacing of the levels pretty close together. As I personally don't have much use for the very low modes outdoors, I would be happy with fewer, more widely spaced modes ( e.g. 860, 450, 200, 65 if keeping the same range). But the spacing I suggested above would be quite usable for me. 

From a marketing point of view, if 550 is the max that they can support from a continuous running with acceptable heat rejection, they may need to keep 550 as the 2nd level. Some users will think of this as a 550 lumen flashlight because the 860 is only available for 3 minutes at a time. A 5 level approach to accommodate this could be 860, 550, 200, 40, 1. Then the steps from 1 to 550 would have approximately equal changes in perceived brightness. 

I don't have any experience using very low lumen levels and I just picked 1 lumen to make the math easier. Does this kind of approach for keeping the same UI but changing levels make sense?


I really like being able to join the bright flashlight club using AA's. With a curious 7 year old, I am hesitant to start using Li-ion cells. This flashlight is fun to have.


----------



## mikekoz

After reading about this light on several threads, I now have a cool white version of it on the way! As far as the spacing of the brightness levels goes, and the lack of a true low, that will just boil down to personal preference and how one uses the light. No matter how a light is designed, like all things, you cannot satisfy everybodys wishes for what they think is the perfect light!  I also love the fact that with today's technology, one can purchase a very bright light using common, cheap, and safe betteries. Not too long ago to get a light like this, it had to be powered by multiple lithium ion or lithium primary cells. I still use a few lights that use single Li Ion rechargeables, but no longer buy the multiple cell lights like that. This light, the Fenix TK70, Coast HP550, Coleman CT50, and several other lights I cannot think of right now make it fun for me to be a flashaholic!


----------



## RBH

That is exactly the way I see it.


----------



## Timothybil

Any of you have an EA4 that has the button light only work as a voltmeter? When the flashlight is on, nothing flashes, but when I put it in lockout I get the expected voltage display. I don't really care because I never saw a need for a constantly blinking button anyway - but I really like the voltmeter function and am glad I still have that.
Also, when doing a couple of ceiling bounce tests, I noticed that the hot spot is a nice warm with (I have the EA4W warm white), with a slightly orange cast around the edges, and the spill area is slightly purple. I guess I get the best of both worlds! I don't really care since the spot is nice and warm white, and the tints are so faint as to be almost not there.
I know I could send it back for the button light and probably get one with a more even tint back, but I'm not going to because I'm happy with what I've got and don't need the hassle of trying to get a feature I could care less about. I'm just enjoying my wonderful light, and flashing back a few years to when all I had was my trusty G2 for the same price I paid for my EA4W. My how times have changed!


----------



## atbglenn

markone said:


> _Illumination Supply_ is providing you with a great after sale service, but maybe you are one of its best loyal customers ;-)
> 
> Just one note about a detail that popped up when i unscrewed the bezel:
> 
> there is a thin transparent flat seal interposed between glass and bezel, not easy to keep in place when it's time to reassemble the head assy.
> 
> I did not removed the glass (dust is always in wait to jump inside flashlight reflectors ...) but i had the impression that bezel / body gap is due to wrong o-ring thickness plus above mentioned seal presence.
> 
> If someone has interest in it, there is hope to lower the gap changing the original o-ring with a thinner one.
> I agree that the gap is not a big problem, but sure with the time it will tend to retain the dirt.
> 
> Changing the subject, i found a japanese webpage with an interesting mod of the flashlight UI led :
> 
> http://katokichi.cocolog-nifty.com/hitorigoto/2012/12/ea4-8bde.html
> 
> Thanks to the brave guy that took apart its own EA4 making photos, now it's clear how the switch assy is made.



I'm a first time buyer from Illumination Supply and still they sent me a new one, even paying for return shipping! Craig is the best! As of now I'm a loyal customer. I've been playing around with the EA4 for a couple of days now and I have to say I'm thrilled with it. The modes are fine form me. I'm not one who needs an ultra low. I think the spacing is fine. That said, I highly recommend this flashlight.


----------



## markone

atbglenn said:


> I'm a first time buyer from Illumination Supply and still they sent me a new one, even paying for return shipping!



That's great, in the old continent it works in a different way, at least for that kind of defects.

I'm too in love for this flashlight, for the following reasons :

- great performance vs size
- works with 8 Euro safe battery
- practical UI 
- handy body

The only thing that i miss is ... the US price, but this is a "local" problem


----------



## TEEJ

One issue with SAR lights and low lows is that the beam SHAPE to GET throw means the beam merely puts a teeny but dim spot of light on the ground, which sucks for walking around with, as you can't see much at a time, and must constantly sweep the light around and try to see what's out there through the limited tunnel vision it creates.

Floody lights are MUCH better suited to low lows...as at least the dim glow allows you to see enough at a time to anticipate roots and so forth.


----------



## Yourfun2

In my etimation, It would not be proper to put a moonlight mode on a light such as this. When I turn a search light on, I expect to see a bright light. If this light came on in a firefly mode, I would not have bought it. It works exactly as one would expect. In fact, They could have left off one of the middle modes for all I care. One less push of the button getting it to where I want it.


----------



## dc38

hi guys, just got my olight s35...the diffuser happens to fit onto the ea4 . snug but not all the way down, so light is lost. but it works quite well


----------



## PhatPhil

dc38 said:


> hi guys, just got my olight s35...the diffuser happens to fit onto the ea4 . snug but not all the way down, so light is lost. but it works quite well



Had sent Nitecore an email a couple of days ago about availability of a diffuser for the EA4. Got this reply this morning.



> Hello Sir,
> Thank you for your email. Yes, we have diffuser for EA4 as optional accessory.
> Best Regards,
> Service Center
> 
> 
> 
> *SYSMAX Industry Co., Ltd.*



I've emailed them back requesting the part number. Will post when I have more details


----------



## xed888

This works as well: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001948/1140012-beam-light-diffuser-for-led-flashlights

Have one on order and will let you know when it arrives but I dont see why it shouldnt fit.


----------



## sbbsga

xed888 said:


> This works as well: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001948/1140012-beam-light-diffuser-for-led-flashlights
> 
> Have one on order and will let you know when it arrives but I dont see why it shouldnt fit.



It will, I have been using the same thing for a while. They fit my PA40W's, Predator V2.0 and now my EA4's. Only yours is 30 cents cheaper each. Not bad. 


Sent using Tapatalk HD.


----------



## PhatPhil

xed888 said:


> This works as well: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001948/1140012-beam-light-diffuser-for-led-flashlights
> 
> Have one on order and will let you know when it arrives but I dont see why it shouldnt fit.



Thanks for the link. Just ordered one


----------



## markone

Yourfun2 said:


> When I turn a search light on, I expect to see a bright light. If this light came on in a firefly mode, I would not have bought it.



Ditto.

Maybe putting moonlight mode off the memory function and leaving it on daily mode selection ring sequence could be the right tradeoff.

I mean the following : if you turn off the flashlight when moonlight mode is running, the next daily mode turn on (switch partway down) level will be the actual low one (65 lumen).

Of course if this feature were implemented in a programmable way... everyone would be happy.

Anyhow i'm under the impression that the "EA4 missing moonlight mode lame" has surely reached Nitecore marketing team ears ... dunno if they have already engaged the RD team on that !


----------



## atbglenn

PhatPhil said:


> Thanks for the link. Just ordered one



I'll be ordering one with my next Fasttech order. They've got great prices and they ship out fast


----------



## ericb445

grepeyre said:


> It'll be called the EA4-A (the last A for awesome  )
> 
> By the way, has anyone done the 'Dropping in a glass of water' test on it yet? Cyclone/Rainy season is upon me, it'd be nice to know that it'll hold up.



No glass of water, but I did bury it in snow with it on the highest setting. It was pretty cool.


----------



## skeeterbait

I like Nitecore products and I really wanted to like this light. I realize there are those who do not want to run lithium, but a light like this running on 3 18650's in parallel would have awesome runtime and emergency light dependability and multi battery type/number platform. Put the switch from the TM15/EC25 in it also and it could be the little sister to the Tiny Monster. They could call it the Micro Monster.


----------



## tickled

KirthGersen said:


> I agree. The higher the max power, the more mode placement and number can become an issue, perhaps increasing the desirability of programmability/configurability or other features like infinitely variable adjustment. I also realize that you can't please everyone. 15lm would make a lot of sense to me-- plenty for lighting one's way in the dark, reading, etc. while greatly multiplying the runtime of the light. I also admit the EA4 is a pretty nice package even without a proper low mode. I just hope they add one, to make it nearly perfect for me. I'm done buying flashlights for a couple of months anyway, so I plan to wait and see what the future brings.


 If you need moonlight mode just wait for the mythical $100 Q50. I think a lot of people are just happy someone is finally stepping up and filling the stubby 4xAA niche.


----------



## grepeyre

skeeterbait said:


> I like Nitecore products and I really wanted to like this light. I realize there are those who do not want to run lithium, but a light like this running on 3 18650's in parallel would have awesome runtime and emergency light dependability and multi battery type/number platform. Put the switch from the TM15/EC25 in it also and it could be the little sister to the Tiny Monster. They could call it the Micro Monster.



Or Teeny Tiny Monster


----------



## pyro1son

I received mine yesterday and am thoroughly pleased with it! It's a great little light and the low is fine for me, if I wanted a really low low I would have gone for a less bright, smaller light! The whole point of me getting this light is to fill my need for a high out put light. The only time I would need a low lumens is indoors and I'd just use my Klarus Mi X6 Ti
Defiantly been won over by this light!


----------



## markone

skeeterbait said:


> I like Nitecore products and I really wanted to like this light. I realize there are those who do not want to run lithium, but a light like this running on 3 18650's in parallel would have awesome runtime and emergency light dependability and multi battery type/number platform. Put the switch from the TM15/EC25 in it also and it could be the little sister to the Tiny Monster. They could call it the Micro Monster.



I could be wrong, but the EA4 main selling point is size & AA battery.
At least that was for me ;-)


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Same for me. An 800+ lumen light, compact, and standard batteries (and rugged to boot).. This is exactly what I have been wanting. 

I have plenty of 18650 bright lights, but this fills a great niche.


----------



## herosemblem

For me, the combination of size, output, and AA batteries is what sold me.
As for its "ruggedness"...I don't see it as rugged because I have been wary of even seeting it near the edge of a coffee table. Big lights fall hard. Yes, the light is small, bit it still has mass. The drop impact rating doesn't assuage me. It is a mere tradeoff and I atoll love mine.


----------



## Verndog

I haven't seen this pointed out yet but Illumination Supply Info on this light says *Utilizes a CREE XM-L T5 LED* but owners manual says *Utilizes a CREE XM-L U2 LED*. Does anyone know for sure which LED is in this light, or what if any differences would be from one to the other?

Update....I just noticed the T5 is the NW light and the U2 is the CW....so that answers that.

BTW, mine is due in Monday.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

herosemblem said:


> For me, the combination of size, output, and AA batteries is what sold me.
> As for its "ruggedness"...I don't see it as rugged because I have been wary of even seeting it near the edge of a coffee table. Big lights fall hard. Yes, the light is small, bit it still has mass. The drop impact rating doesn't assuage me. It is a mere tradeoff and I atoll love mine.



Well, you being needlessly paranoid does not make it any less rugged. It is nicely waterproof, and a single piece design will make is stronger than something with multiple joints. Unibody devices are commonly stronger than comparable multipart desvices. 

Sure, it is not bullet proof, but I see no reason to baby it.. About the only thing to break on this is the glass.. And assuming they re honest that it is toughened, then you don't have to much worry..


----------



## herosemblem

Unfortunately, Mr. paranoid Madcat, I knocked it off my 18'' height coffee table today and it cracked the lens, some shards are on the reflector, the bezel retaining ring is bent and cannot unscrew to replace the lens. 
If I had dropped the light from my hand, the height would have been higher than my 18'' coffee table. 

Also, my Lumintop TD15 (a light I used to own) is a less massive light, and upon its second drop, the lens cracked, glass shards entered the reflector assembly, and the circuitry was screwed up afterward. So, me being mindful of flashlights falling and being damaged as a result does not constitute paranoia. 
I see no need to baby the light, either. I never said anything about babying it. If maintaining a stronger grip on the light = babying it, then sure.


----------



## Verndog

herosemblem said:


> Unfortunately, Mr. paranoid Madcat, I knocked it off my 18'' height coffee table today and it cracked the lens, some shards are on the reflector, the bezel retaining ring is bent and cannot unscrew to replace the lens.



Wow...that really sucks, sorry to hear that. I'm more cautious with heavier lights also, and definitely wont tailstand in the kitchen where there is ceramic tile. People that have 19 yr olds walking around "plugged in" know this.


----------



## Tac Gunner

So after reading all 21 pages of this thread and two months worth of info, I believe I'm going to order an EA4 NW when they come back in stock at stores. Before I do though, I was wanting to hear from the owners of these pocket rockets that got em as soon as they were released as to how they are holding up now and if any major problems have turned up. I know of the nitpick rattle, bezel gap, and those that complain of the low but I'm wondering if there is anything with the switch, circuitry, etc.


----------



## Yourfun2

No problems here! I believe Illumination Supply has them in stock.


----------



## markr6

Verndog said:


> I haven't seen this pointed out yet but Illumination Supply Info on this light says *Utilizes a CREE XM-L T5 LED* but owners manual says *Utilizes a CREE XM-L U2 LED*. Does anyone know for sure which LED is in this light, or what if any differences would be from one to the other?
> 
> Update....I just noticed the T5 is the NW light and the U2 is the CW....so that answers that.



I'm not sure though. The box from my NW says "EA4W U2 SMO". The invoice also says U2.


----------



## Yourfun2

Definitly not U2. I think it is the same as what is in TM15. Probably a T6?


----------



## markr6

I would agree with a T6. The tint is very close to my Fenix PD32UE. Totally different reflectors/beam patterns so it's not a great comparison, but the tints seem the same on a white wall.


----------



## windsurf

Verndog said:


> I haven't seen this pointed out yet but Illumination Supply Info on this light says *Utilizes a CREE XM-L T5 LED* but owners manual says *Utilizes a CREE XM-L U2 LED*. Does anyone know for sure which LED is in this light, or what if any differences would be from one to the other?
> 
> Update....I just noticed the T5 is the NW light and the U2 is the CW....so that answers that.
> 
> BTW, mine is due in Monday.


Lots of different 'evidence' as to what the EA4 NW bin is.

1. T5 from the illumination supply webpage.
2. T6 from a poster in budgetlight forums who received confirmation from Hank Wang at intl-outdoors that it was T6 3C.
3. U2 from the EA4W box sticker (I never did trust this sticker on mine)
4. T6 in comparable Eagletac G25C2 MkII (856 ANSI FL-1 from U2 CW, 795 ANSI FL-1 from T6 NW)

We'll have to keep on guessing. I had assumed T6, but with Nitecore being so coy, I wonder if it could be a mixture depending on availability? That might also explain the tint differences we've seen with the NW!


----------



## HighlanderNorth

Tybo22 said:


> Thank you sir for agreeing with me some what.....I love my low modes and honestly if they made a ea4 with lower modes I would probably buy it as well because I have a problem when it comes to buying lights. I was only trying to point out that a lack of a low low mode is not a flaw or problem as stated earlier.




It wont stop me from buying one eventually, as long as no other problems spring up.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

fatbrad said:


> In some of selfbuilt's reviews of infinitely variable lights, he has discussed perceived brightness going with the cube root of the lumens or lux. If the progression on this light were 860, 400, 145, 30, 1 lumens then the perceived brightness should change by the same amount for every step. It would provide the low levels that some users desire without adding too many clicks to cycle to the level you want when higher levels are desired. Also, the daily mode has memory so you could avoid the low levels if you wanted.
> 
> I just got mine today and it sure makes my Fenix LD25 seem dim. Most of my use will be walking dogs at night. I found the spacing of the levels pretty close together. As I personally don't have much use for the very low modes outdoors, I would be happy with fewer, more widely spaced modes ( e.g. 860, 450, 200, 65 if keeping the same range). But the spacing I suggested above would be quite usable for me.
> 
> From a marketing point of view, if 550 is the max that they can support from a continuous running with acceptable heat rejection, they may need to keep 550 as the 2nd level. Some users will think of this as a 550 lumen flashlight because the 860 is only available for 3 minutes at a time. A 5 level approach to accommodate this could be 860, 550, 200, 40, 1. Then the steps from 1 to 550 would have approximately equal changes in perceived brightness.
> 
> I don't have any experience using very low lumen levels and I just picked 1 lumen to make the math easier. Does this kind of approach for keeping the same UI but changing levels make sense?
> 
> 
> I really like being able to join the bright flashlight club using AA's. With a curious 7 year old, I am hesitant to start using Li-ion cells. This flashlight is fun to have.





The settings you mentioned above would be absolutely ideal for any light in this brightness range.


----------



## FoxyRick

markr6 said:


> I'm not sure though. The box from my NW says "EA4W U2 SMO".



Mine says the same. It seems a little warmer than the LD41 I've just bought, and not as warm as the Malkoff M60W. I've only tested them briefly in the house so far though.


----------



## Yourfun2

windsurf said:


> Lots of different 'evidence' as to what the EA4 NW bin is.
> 
> 1. T5 from the illumination supply webpage.
> 2. T6 from a poster in budgetlight forums who received confirmation from Hank Wang at intl-outdoors that it was T6 3C.
> 3. U2 from the EA4W box sticker (I never did trust this sticker on mine)
> 4. T6 in comparable Eagletac G25C2 MkII (856 ANSI FL-1 from U2 CW, 795 ANSI FL-1 from T6 NW)
> 
> We'll have to keep on guessing. I had assumed T6, but with Nitecore being so coy, I wonder if it could be a mixture depending on availability? That might also explain the tint differences we've seen with the NW!



You are right. I had the opportunity to compare a few lights and they are not all the same. One from an early batch was warmer and one from the last batch has a pink hue to it. The rest were pretty much looking like T6.

How does the beam compare to your G25C2 ? I keep thinking I should buy one. Looked around today and none were available.


----------



## was_jlh

My box from Illumination Supply says 'EA4 U2 SMO'. When i ordered, the website showed, as it does now, one selection for EA4 and a separate selection for EA4 Neutral. I chose the one that just said EA4, because I want a cool white. 

But after the latest posts on this thread, I am not sure that I have a cool white. Is there a way to know for sure, or should I contact Craig at Illumination Supply?


----------



## GordoJones88

was_jlh said:


> My box from Illumination Supply says 'EA4 U2 SMO'. When i ordered, the website showed, as it does now, one selection for EA4 and a separate selection for EA4 Neutral. I chose the one that just said EA4, because I want a cool white.
> 
> But after the latest posts on this thread, I am not sure that I have a cool white. Is there a way to know for sure, or should I contact Craig at Illumination Supply?


 
You have a cool white.
If it was neutral it would say 'EA4W U2 SMO'.
It would also have a slight yellowish tint overall.


----------



## windsurf

Yourfun2 said:


> You are right. I had the opportunity to compare a few lights and they are not all the same. One from an early batch was warmer and one from the last batch has a pink hue to it. The rest were pretty much looking like T6.
> 
> How does the beam compare to your G25C2 ? I keep thinking I should buy one. Looked around today and none were available.


I don't have the G25C2, was only quoting specs from Eagletac's website relating comparable bright U2/T6 equiped lights.

I received my EA4 from GG on Dec 15, and the entire spill has a definite light magenta color. Haven't had snow to reflect off of, only a white wall. Otherwise, tint is not noticeable outdoors.

What is your thought about the "rest were pretty much looking like T6" color? The only NWs I have to compare are XM-L T5's (2 Xeno E03 3C's which sold me on all NW and a Quark which is slightly yellow compared to the E03s)


----------



## Yourfun2

EA4Ws tend to be a little magenta while the Foursevens slightly yellow. Very difficult to compare tints between lights. They all look good until you put them next to something else. Looking at a color temp chart will show it oesn't take much to go from one tint color to another. It is a tint lottery when buying a light of this caliber.


----------



## was_jlh

GordoJones88 said:


> You have a cool white.
> If it was neutral it would say 'EA4W U2 SMO'.
> It would also have a slight yellowish tint overall.



thank you GordoJones88


----------



## Beacon of Light

This has nothing on the Q50. The max runtime with 4 AAs on this thing is not even a full day or 24 hours? This is weak, especially when a 1xAA can doing months on low with 1 battery and this has 4. Nothing to see here. Nitecore FAIL.



don.gwapo said:


> With this light, forget the Zebralight Q50!
> 
> Hope they will release it before Christmas.


----------



## Beacon of Light

BINGO!!!!



duro said:


> Come on Nitecore! --Get some low modes built into those drivers. Pff.


----------



## biglights

Beacon of Light said:


> BINGO!!!!



I think some of you are missing the point of this light. It is not meant for a low low, it is a compact search light. Nothing more nothing less. This light is pure power, lights up stuff that others in its size and battery style cant do. It does what it does very well. Have fun waiting on the Q50 which will probably never see the light of day :candle:


----------



## Beacon of Light

but if and when the Q50 does surface, it will be a hands down winner over this. I think runtime on low is like a YEAR compared to not even a DAY for the EA4. No comparison even.



biglights said:


> I think some of you are missing the point of this light. It is not meant for a low low, it is a compact search light. Nothing more nothing less. This light is pure power, lights up stuff that others in its size and battery style cant do. It does what it does very well. Have fun waiting on the Q50 which will probably never see the light of day :candle:


----------



## Verndog

Beacon of Light said:


> but if and when the Q50 does surface, it will be a hands down winner over this. I think runtime on low is like a YEAR compared to not even a DAY for the EA4. No comparison even.



Ya because there is a severe shortage of AA batteries, this is s huge plus. Please...not everyone cares about max runtime that gives 4 feet of vision on a searchlight. Please just pick another model and move on.


----------



## biglights

Never mind I just looked at some of your post and it looks like you are a ZL fan-boy so there is no point of posting any thing else on this matter with you. In your mind the Q50 is the tops and anything else just isn't going to cut it. I have some ZL's also and they are great, but the EA4 is different and I like it. If you don't like it no need to come on the EA4 thread and complain on the run time and the lack of the low. Move on.


----------



## KirthGersen

There's no reason that this "searchlight" couldn't have a low mode like comparable lights (PA40, LD41). Update those lights with the latest XM-L emitters and give them a several-minute turbo mode, and you've got functional near-parity. 

There is no good reason whatsoever for the EA4 not to have a low mode. Instead, the functional lack of a low mode seems to be rationalized by naming it a "searchlight". A low mode on the EA4 could be implemented just fine; not wanting it to come on in low mode is just a comment on mode order.

Arguments against a lower mode could be made against the 65-lumen mode as well. Nobody would use a 65-lumen light for search and rescue. Nor do I suspect that most people buying the EA4 are using it for search and rescue. The word "searchlight" is just used as a defense tactic regarding this light.

I have a feeling that a lot of the people rationalizing the EA4's lack of a low mode would have picked a version with a low mode if it were available, all else being equal. More functionality is better. While the EA4's blend of power and portability is nice, its max runtime is not so nice.

For a negligible difference in cost, Nitecore could have fixed this problem with the EA4. Here's hoping they do so in a future version. What Fenix, Jetbeam et al. will likely do is follow Nitecore and Zebralight into this new niche, but unlike Nitecore (so far) they will get the low level right. 

A blunder is a blunder. A product can be excellent at some things but still have flaws; there's no need for such extreme defensiveness.


----------



## Verndog

KirthGersen said:


> There's no reason that this "searchlight" couldn't have a low mode like comparable lights (PA40, LD41).



There is a very good reason why it doesn't. Nitecore choose not to, it's their light for their intended market target, they pay the bills, and they get to decide.

What there REALLY is no reason for...is guys like you coming and and calling a light useless, and fail OVER and OVER and OVER and OVER again! We get your point, you don't like it...then just buy another damn light and quite beating the dead horse for the 100th time.


----------



## markr6

Verndog said:


> There is a very good reason why it doesn't. Nitecore choose not to, it's their light for their intended market target, they pay the bills, and they get to decide.
> 
> What there REALLY is no reason for...is guys like you coming and and calling a light useless, and fail OVER and OVER and OVER and OVER again! We get your point, you don't like it...then just buy another damn light and quite beating the dead horse for the 100th time.



+1

Yeah it's too bad. Approaching 650 posts of what should be praise and for a great light and pretty much the first of it's kind. Instead of 9.5/10 positive reviews about how people are using this to view distant wildlife at night, keep an eye on their farm, monitor acerage, SAR, etc., we've got a soiled thread with the same complaints over and over. I do understand that and admit one lower level would make it perfect but it doesn't exist. Maybe in the future Nitecore will decide to add it for a "do it all" approach like Zebralight, but for now I'm satisfied with an incredible light for $60.


----------



## WadeF

It's an amazing light for the price, and there maybe a good reason why there isn't a lower mode, it may have made the driver less efficient at the higher output modes. I don't know all the technical reasons, but I've heard manufacturers discuss how it can be difficult, or impossible, to have a driver that runs the light efficiently at a very low mode and a very high mode. Maybe Nitecore could have achieved this, but it may have made the light cost more. IDK. If I need low I pull a small AAA flashlight out of my pocket that has a sub 1 lumen low.


----------



## Yourfun2

Same complaints for the TM11 and TM15. These lights are made for the great outdoors and should be used as such. If you need less light, put your hand over the lens or break out your EDC.


----------



## FoxyRick

I don't care about a low level really. If I want a low level for wandering about in the dark, a lighter-weight flashlight would be more comfortable to carry anyway.

I really like the EA4W. Hopefully I will be able to get out on the hills next week for a real trial.

There are two things about it that I'm not so keen on:

1. I find the button difficult to locate in the dark. I would prefer an obvious recess with the button in it. Perhaps there isn't room for that though in such a compact wonder. This is a minor point really.

2. The lockout release does not work according to my manual (which says to press three times). All I have to do is hold the button gently down ("half way", not even into the body) for a second or so, and the light comes back on. It has definitely entered lockout mode because it does the flashing button thing. That is a little concerning because the button is not recessed and absolutely could come out of lockout and get turned on (ooh err!).

Maybe 3: My very old Tiablo A8 WC Q5 gives a brighter hot spot on the wall - I'm guessing it might out throw the EA4!


----------



## KirthGersen

Verndog said:


> There is a very good reason why it doesn't. Nitecore choose not to, it's their light for their intended market target, they pay the bills, and they get to decide.


I guess we could say the same about any poor design decision, eh? Let's try to keep things real.



Verndog said:


> What there REALLY is no reason for...is guys like you coming and and calling a light useless, and fail OVER and OVER and OVER and OVER again!


I haven't called it useless (straw man, anyone?) but have said I won't buy one that's hobbled by the lack of a low mode. I haven't failed-- have you confused me with someone else? 



Verndog said:


> We get your point, you don't like it...then just buy another damn light and quite beating the dead horse for the 100th time.


If daring to post multiple times in this thread is "beating a dead horse", I'm not the only one guilty. In fact I have been responding to posts by others after my first one. Three of my posts have been responses to attacks on my position by you.

No amount of disliking the points I've made means that they're invalid.


----------



## jazzelwood

So excited getting this tomorrow (ebay)- husband bought me a little yellow surefire- I'm sure this will kick its butt! 

-need to see the coyotes and watch the dogs


----------



## windsurf

FoxyRick said:


> 2. The lockout release does not work according to my manual (which says to press three times). All I have to do is hold the button gently down ("half way", not even into the body) for a second or so, and the light comes back on. It has definitely entered lockout mode because it does the flashing button thing. That is a little concerning because the button is not recessed and absolutely could come out of lockout and get turned on (ooh err!).


Some printed manuals had this error as well as the pdf manual on the Nitecore website. A Sysmax rep responed much earlier in this thread and at least the pdf file was updated with a rev date of 12-17-12. The revised sentence doesn't specify full or half press, "Holding the switch for more than one second to exit the lockout mode."

Have you tried the well known auto turn on from SOS? Once you get into SOS from strobe, a quick half press during one of the three longer "O" flashes turns the light off. The blue indicator stays lit and 3 minutes later it's on high! Works everytime for me during an "O" flash, else I've had hit or miss getting into this mode. 

None of these quirks bother me, including missing a true low mode since I have several single AA lights that work as an EDC for me.


----------



## herosemblem

I love my EA4 and do not consider it a hobbled light, like someone else thinks. I'm trying to think of the benefit of having a low low (like 1 lumen or so?) on this light...
So, I'm out searching for a lost person, using Max. When would I use the super low mode? To read a map? It is uncomfortable to hold this compact tank above a map for more than 30 seconds...so no.
Would I use the 1 lumen to walk back to my vehicle? No.
How about using the 1 lumen to walk around my house at night? No. (Seriously, who uses compact hefty coke can flashlights to find their way to the bathroom? Not happening). 
Would I use 1 lumen to bring comfort or whatever to a household during an extended power outage or disaster scenario? Sure, I can see that.

Those things considered, I still don't think the light is hobbled. Mr. Girthson, no need to impose what you consider rational thought onto others. Having the light in hand, for me, and for others, has had the effect of removing your criticism. I found that I simply don't mind,and perhaps even prefer not having a low low on this light, therefore making it not hobbled.


----------



## Verndog

KirthGersen said:


> *I don't intend to drop a non-negligible amount of money on a light that I consider to be uselessly hobbled.*







KirthGersen said:


> *I haven't called it useless (straw man, anyone?) but have said I won't buy one that's hobbled by the lack of a low mode. I haven't failed-- have you confused me with someone else?*



You are the one that is confused....right there on page 19....*uselessly hobbled*....your exact words. There are 22 pages of people that found uses for this light in a little over 1 months time. You have no idea what you even say, so just go away please.


----------



## KirthGersen

Verndog said:


> You are the one that is confused....right there on page 19....*uselessly hobbled*....your exact words. There are 22 pages of people that found uses for this light in a little over 1 months time. You have no idea what you even say, so just go away please.


I see the problem: lack of basic reading comprehension. When I say that something is uselessly hobbled, that means just what it says; it's been hobbled, and without purpose. That is not a statement that the light itself is useless. (I asked my seven year old son what he thought the statement meant, and he parsed it correctly, by the way-- true story.) In addition, I've stated more than once in this thread that the light is nice in many ways, just that it is also flawed. Nowhere have I stated that it's a useless light.

I guess the time has come to ask that you either stop the attacks, or else stop accusing me hypocritically of beating a dead horse. I have a right to post my opinion, and to respond to people when they communicate with/at me. Again, no amount of disliking what I say means that it's not valid; nor do you have the right to act as forum police, dismissing those you don't like. Simmer down.


----------



## dc38

Verndog said:


> You are the one that is confused....right there on page 19....*uselessly hobbled*....your exact words. There are 22 pages of people that found uses for this light in a little over 1 months time. You have no idea what you even say, so just go away please.



hey vern, lets let the light defend itself...we dont need to defend the light since we KNOW first hand exactly how great this light is. it is no edc, although i edc it. its too big to be useful as a super low mode edc, but perfect as a palm sized search light. there will always be haters, but for us who love the light and its function and novelty, who gives a hoot what anyone says?


----------



## GordoJones88

KirthGersen said:


> I see the problem: lack of basic reading comprehension. When I say that something is uselessly hobbled, that means just what it says; it's been hobbled, and without purpose. That is not a statement that the light itself is useless. (I asked my seven year old son what he thought the statement meant, and he parsed it correctly, by the way-- true story.) In addition, I've stated more than once in this thread that the light is nice in many ways, just that it is also flawed. Nowhere have I stated that it's a useless light.
> 
> I guess the time has come to ask that you either stop the attacks, or else stop accusing me hypocritically of beating a dead horse. I have a right to post my opinion, and to respond to people when they communicate with/at me. Again, no amount of disliking what I say means that it's not valid; nor do you have the right to act as forum police, dismissing those you don't like. Simmer down.



Frankly, I'm sick and tired of reading your uselessly hobbled opinion. You have been going on and on and on for over a week now. It's been 14 posts and 5 pages of you flame baiting and inciting others to attack. I've reported you to a mod. I suggest others report his attacks also. Your opinion has been stated more than enough. It's time for you to move on.


----------



## mets1p

GordoJones88 said:


> Frankly, I'm sick and tired of reading your uselessly hobbled opinion. You have been going on and on and on for over a week now. It's been 14 posts and 5 pages of you flame baiting and inciting others to attack. I've reported you to a mod. I suggest others report his attacks also. Your opinion has been stated more than enough. It's time for you to move on.




Couldn't agree anymore !! I bought the light, I enjoy the light and I don't need NO STINKIN lower level then the one that already exists !! If you don't like the product, have no intention of buying the current product then just simply move on. Then again if you think you're up to it design and build one that'll fit your every requirement. Maybe just maybe you'll build that proverbial better mouse trap and we'll all be beating down your door to buy one from you. Till that time you've made your point abundantly clear and have more then adequately expressed your displeasure with the current product!! I think these forums need to look at adding an IGNORE feature so we don't have to wade through similar posts from any individual once they've made their point.


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## Verndog

GordoJones88 said:


> Frankly, I'm sick and tired of reading your uselessly hobbled opinion. You have been going on and on and on for over a week now. It's been 14 posts and 5 pages of you flame baiting and inciting others to attack. I've reported you to a mod. I suggest others report his attacks also. Your opinion has been stated more than enough. It's time for you to move on.



Hopefully we've heard the last from him here. I reported him also after his last "7 year old" post.


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## Norm

KirthGersen you have expressed your opinion, I don't think you need labour the point further, you obliviously don't like the Nitecore EA4 Pioneer, just because you have a negative opinion doesn't mean other members need to be beaten into submission until they agree with you.

I can see no constructive reason why you should continue to in this thread. Please move on, further like posts will be considered trolling and will be deleted. - Norm


----------



## Soltani231

Got both of mine. A great value. For low level I will pick up my EA1 or EC1. They are perfect for my cars and if I need to replace the batteries, its great that I can pop in AA's.


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## herosemblem

I currently use Nimh rechargables in my EA4. 
I was also looking at some nicads, but the nicads had a lower mah rating. 
Anyone want to give me a primer on the differences between these two factors? Thank you.


----------



## jomox

Like others have stated there is absolutely no need for a low mode. It would also make more unneeded modes, we have plenty of lights we can use with low modes, but this light is not designed for a low mode, it don't need one and I hope it will never be added to future revisions of the light. We are spoilt for choice as it is.


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## jmpaul320

jomox said:


> Like others have stated there is absolutely no need for a low mode. It would also make more unneeded modes, we have plenty of lights we can use with low modes, but this light is not designed for a low mode, it don't need one and I hope it will never be added to future revisions of the light. We are spoilt for choice as it is.



I agree. If I want low - keychain light is always with me.


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## Beacon of Light

What is the problem with my opinion? What if I bought it and and didn't like it? Only then am I allowed to criticise it for the craptastic runtime? According to you I am not allowed to point out it's flaws? I'll tell you what I am the harshest critic on anything I buy lights, gear you name it, so even on the Zebralight stuff you call me a fanboy for, well guess what I will criticise them as well and I have for dumb moves on their part. I'm not down with this whole PC stuff where people aren't allowed to tell the truth but have to sugar coat things because of all these sensitive people. So do disprove your idea of me as a Zebralight fanboy, just yesterday I posted a few threads about how shady it is that Zebralight would discontinue their SC80 light less than a year after they released it with no further notice or reason why. So see I am not afraid to call out the company you say I am being a fanboy for.



biglights said:


> Never mind I just looked at some of your post and it looks like you are a ZL fan-boy so there is no point of posting any thing else on this matter with you. In your mind the Q50 is the tops and anything else just isn't going to cut it. I have some ZL's also and they are great, but the EA4 is different and I like it. If you don't like it no need to come on the EA4 thread and complain on the run time and the lack of the low. Move on.


----------



## Beacon of Light

No you'd use the hefty coke can light with a super long runtime in plenty of instances... one example: as a lantern in a tent that might last your entire journey hiking the Appalacian Mountains for several months on the same 4 AA batteries... Good luck with that with the EA4 haha



herosemblem said:


> I love my EA4 and do not consider it a hobbled light, like someone else thinks. I'm trying to think of the benefit of having a low low (like 1 lumen or so?) on this light...
> So, I'm out searching for a lost person, using Max. When would I use the super low mode? To read a map? It is uncomfortable to hold this compact tank above a map for more than 30 seconds...so no.
> Would I use the 1 lumen to walk back to my vehicle? No.
> How about using the 1 lumen to walk around my house at night? No. (Seriously, who uses compact hefty coke can flashlights to find their way to the bathroom? Not happening).
> Would I use 1 lumen to bring comfort or whatever to a household during an extended power outage or disaster scenario? Sure, I can see that.
> 
> Those things considered, I still don't think the light is hobbled. Mr. Girthson, no need to impose what you consider rational thought onto others. Having the light in hand, for me, and for others, has had the effect of removing your criticism. I found that I simply don't mind,and perhaps even prefer not having a low low on this light, therefore making it not hobbled.


----------



## rewdee

Bring the tool(light) that suits the purpose. There are too many of us with too many needs and wants to be covered with a single light design.

And even if its possible where is the fun in that? I and everyone else will have one same light. I want many lights 

Btw, i think the EA4 is a decent light. The form factor, battery type and throw suits my purpose.


----------



## herosemblem

Thank you for the suggestion, Beacon, but I had already considered using the ea4 for backpacking or camping purposes, and decided that I actually would *not* prefer my mini hefty coke can as a means of lighting. I find that pocketable lights work best. (Ever dropped an ea4 on your forehead while lying down in a tent?). From what I hear, too, people who do extended backpacking excursions tend to prrfrr lightness, which eliminates something of this size and weight from carry.


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## Verndog

Beacon of Light said:


> What is the problem with my opinion?



Most have no problem with an opinion. But there seems to be a few with an agenda tied to it. This becomes clear with terms like Useless and Fail, as you called it. The light doesn't fail, and it's not useless, it just lacks a feature you want and many don't care about. So what? State you prefer a low and a years runtime like the competition (that doesn't exist yet) WITHOUT being obnoxious and insulting to those that invested and nobody will say a word. Be rude or go over the top comparing it to lights it has no intention of being and expect to hear about it.


----------



## stp

herosemblem said:


> ... From what I hear, too, people who do extended backpacking excursions tend to prrfrr lightness, which eliminates something of this size and weight from carry.



It really depends...I travel here and there and I'm currently thinking about small thrower powered by AA's (I'm still not sure if I want to jump to Li-ion's or not) which would accompany my ZL H51 - because smaller light like H51 don't have enough throw and it would be useful sometimes. I travel with my girlfriend so we need two lights. EA4 would be much more versatile for us if it would offer lower mode. I also prefer to travel lightweight so one light per person is optimal for me. But I understand why you prefer it without it. I just wish that maybe Nitcore will split the line and offer EA4 and something other like EA4 but targeted at general population with more modes and simpler (2 buttons maybe?) interface.


----------



## grepeyre

I've received my EA4 today, very nice. Well, I won't go into details as most of it has already been told.

I have a question about the batteries, I popped in a set of 'Heavy Duty' Zinc chloride batteries but I wasn't really impressed with the Turbo output. The two lowest modes were good though (by good I mean what I would expect as for the lumens rating). My question is, are the batteries having such an effect on the light?

I did a small test: started with the blinker giving me a 5.6v reading. I then ran it in Turbo for about 15 sec and straight away after checked the voltage which was 4.9v. Could this be reducing the power output of the driver? The voltage took about 3 minutes after that to reach 5.6v again.


I opened it and the batteries were slightly warm. Would the Eneloops help out in this situation? Could someone maybe do the same test I did and post the voltage results? Thanks


----------



## Beacon of Light

Verndog said:


> Most have no problem with an opinion. But there seems to be a few with an agenda tied to it. This becomes clear with terms like Useless and Fail, as you called it. The light doesn't fail, and it's not useless, it just lacks a feature you want and many don't care about. So what? State you prefer a low and a years runtime like the competition (that doesn't exist yet) WITHOUT being obnoxious and insulting to those that invested and nobody will say a word. Be rude or go over the top comparing it to lights it has no intention of being and expect to hear about it.



Looky here... *Zebralight's new S6330 with 2400 lumens*. Granted it is 18650, but Zebralight's 4xAA version will probably be a reality much sooner now that they are bringing the big gun version out first. And the runtime on low is 365 days, a full YEAR not 22 hours  Shipping 1/7/2013:


----------



## darkpeak

Here's my take on the debate about the EA4. The light has been marketed by Nitecore as a search light and so the low low would serve no purpose as generally SAR would have head torches or smaller lights for the more mundane general purpose tasks. The form factor of the EA4 with it's size, output and battery layout is excellent and so I hope that Nitecore and the other light manufacturers read and digest the posts in this thread and come to the conclusion that a similar light but a general purpose one with a stunning high but also a low and low low for longer runtimes would not only be a great idea but also judging by the lively debate in this thread also a commercial success. So come on light manufacturers give us a 4 AA light in the same form factor with great well spaced highs but also long running lows marketed at the general purpose mass market as I'm sure it would be a success and fly off of the shelves.


----------



## FoxyRick

grepeyre said:


> I popped in a set of 'Heavy Duty' Zinc chloride batteries



That won't do at all. Zinc chloride cells are only 'Heavy Duty' compared to the oldest zinc carbon technology. Forget them completely. Eneloops are what you want, or 1.5V lithium energizers if you are rich.


----------



## Verndog

Beacon of Light said:


> ....Zebralight's 4xAA version will probably be a reality much sooner now that they are bringing the big gun version out first. And the runtime on low is 365 days, a full YEAR not 22 hours  Shipping 1/7/2013:



Excellent, a pic of something that holds $45.00 worth of batteries.... Now...how about we have that debate after they release it? That way we can each be talking about something that exists.


----------



## Beacon of Light

The ZL S6330 is marketed as a search light then as the thing has 3 times the lumens as the EA4 yet it still is considerate about runtime with a YEAR of runtime on low as opposed to a measly 22 hours.



darkpeak said:


> Here's my take on the debate about the EA4. The light has been marketed by Nitecore as a search light and so the low low would serve no purpose as generally SAR would have head torches or smaller lights for the more mundane general purpose tasks. The form factor of the EA4 with it's size, output and battery layout is excellent and so I hope that Nitecore and the other light manufacturers read and digest the posts in this thread and come to the conclusion that a similar light but a general purpose one with a stunning high but also a low and low low for long runtimes would be not only a great idea but also judging by the lively debate in this thread also a commercial success. So come on light manufacturers give us a 4 AA light in the same form factor with great well spaced highs but also long running lows marketed at the general purpose mass market as I'm sure it would be a success and fly off of the shelves.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Did you not see that I posted it is shipping out January 7th? That is today... meaning it is shipping out to customers TODAY. Try to keep up Verney.



Verndog said:


> Excellent, a pic of something that holds $45.00 worth of batteries.... Now...how about we have that debate after they release it? That way we can each be talking about something that exists.


----------



## markr6

Verndog said:


> Excellent, a pic of something that holds $45.00 worth of batteries....



LOL!!!!

Apples and oranges comparing with the S6330 but I see the point. We'll just have to wait for the Q50 and see. God knows we've waited long enough, can't be much longer!


----------



## Verndog

darkpeak said:


> So come on light manufacturers give us a 4 AA light in the same form factor with great well spaced highs but also long running lows marketed at the general purpose mass market as I'm sure it would be a success and fly off of the shelves.



It's already starting. Fenix LD41 U2 is double stack 4 cell, 520L without 3min stepdown and 5L low (and less throw). EagleTac is coming out with a 6 cell....others will follow with single stack 4 cells. Nitecore with this light choose not to go right after the LD41 (mode wise), which if you stop and think makes sense since it has almost 30% more throw.


----------



## Yourfun2

Beacon of Light said:


> Did you not see that I posted it is shipping out January 7th? That is today... meaning it is shipping out to customers TODAY. Try to keep up Verney.


Your posts are not revelant to this thread and you have an agenda that I don't think is appreciated here. Hopefully the Moderator will have a word with you soon.


----------



## Verndog

Verndog said:


> .. Now...how about we have that debate after they release it?





Beacon of Light said:


> ...Try to keep up Verney.



I'm keeping up. The debate I was referring to is the 4AA model that doesn't exist....not the light that's batteries cost near as much as the light you want to compare. Apples to apples only please... and that would not include comparing a $200.00 light to a $60.00 light.


----------



## Beacon of Light

no I was defending myself as vern was claiming Zebralight was all vaporware and I proved it wasn't. Now all of a sudden the dude is speechless when confronted with truth. Simple as that.



Yourfun2 said:


> Your posts are not revelant to this thread and you have an agenda that I don't think is appreciated here. Hopefully the Moderator will have a word with you soon.


----------



## Beacon of Light

Well if you want to go toe to toe or apples to apples... Zebralight's 5310 which is a 3xAA version of the one I posted here has a release date next month. From experience, I know once they have a release date a month away, it no longer becomes vaporware but a reality. Anywho... those 3xAAs will still give it more lumens than most other manufacturers can do with 4xAAs, AND also have exponentially better runtime. So basically it is ZL with it's hands tied behind it's back with one less battery for power, yet it is brighter AND has better runtime. You can't really brag when you get beat down like that Vern, sorry.



Verndog said:


> I'm keeping up. The debate I was referring to is the 4AA model that doesn't exist....not the light that's batteries cost near as much as the light you want to compare. Apples to apples only please... and that would not include comparing a $200.00 light to a $60.00 light.


----------



## Verndog

Beacon of Light said:


> Well if you want to go toe to toe or apples to apples... Zebralight's 5310 which is a 3xAA version of the one I posted here has a release date next month...



Wow...you are something. Another light that doesn't exist...you just don't get it do you?? Apple to apple would not include apple to apple blossom!! So please....just take your 1 year firefly mode and go on your 1 year expedition for Sasquatch on top of Mt. Crumpit or wherever you need it.


----------



## SuLyMaN

herosemblem said:


> Unfortunately, Mr. paranoid Madcat, I knocked it off my 18'' height coffee table today and it cracked the lens, some shards are on the reflector, the bezel retaining ring is bent and cannot unscrew to replace the lens.
> If I had dropped the light from my hand, the height would have been higher than my 18'' coffee table.
> 
> Also, my Lumintop TD15 (a light I used to own) is a less massive light, and upon its second drop, the lens cracked, glass shards entered the reflector assembly, and the circuitry was screwed up afterward. So, me being mindful of flashlights falling and being damaged as a result does not constitute paranoia.
> I see no need to baby the light, either. I never said anything about babying it. If maintaining a stronger grip on the light = babying it, then sure.



Can you post,pics of the cracked lens? My flaslight has been dropped so often and never had any issue.

Sent from my GT-S5660 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## darkpeak

Hi Verndog, the LD41 is a great light but lacks the stunning high and throw of the EA4 but as you say more light manufacturers are heading down this road, which I’m sure will be a good thing. 

The trouble is everyone has a different opinion on what a light should have with regard to runtimes, light levels, beam characteristics and battery configuration so I think any critism on Nitecore is a bit harsh because the EA4 is such a great light. Well done Nitecore.

We can only hope that enough manufacturers produce a variety of lights in this category that will give us all a light that at least partially fits are needs.

For me if we could only get a light with the EA4’s high level, beam, battery configuration and compactness with the lower lows and longer runtimes of the LD41 and a simple UI then I'm sure it would be a winner with enthusiasts and the general public alike.


----------



## Palaeoboy

> So basically it is ZL with it's hands tied behind it's back with one less battery for power, yet it is brighter AND has better runtime.



Ahhhh so that explains why this light and the Q50 promised back mid 2011 is now finally going to be shipped? They were making them with one hand behind their backs. I wish they had used 2 hands and we could have had them over a year ago! And the Q50 is still a no show.

I personally have no use for the low lumen modes like 1 to 5 let alone the ridiculous .01. But the low lumen crowd always seem to swing the manufacturers their way that many lights I would have considered I passed on because of the, "for me", unusable low modes. Now that the shoe is finally on the other foot their heads are exploding! LOL I have been revelling in the comments of the low mode diehards, its been great fun reading this thread LOL (Is that wrong? ). If any product doesnt have all the features you want dont you move on and choose something else? If everything was put in one light there would be no need to offer others in their range. I have waited for years for a stumpy Tekna 4 replacement from my youth and this is it. I waited and waited for the Zebralight Q50 which still IS vapour-ware. So thanks Nitecore, look at the size of this thread and the amount sold so far its a winner. Not bad for a flawed design.

I wonder how many people get stranded for a year these days without a spare set of AA batteries out of reach? (Here in Australia they call off a search in 2 weeks and rationalise it by convincing the public that anyone couldnt survive any longer when in fact they often do) The EA4 will make a perfect camping lantern with a dome diffuser on it. On all my other lights when I use the diffuser in a tent as a lantern the lowest I usually go is 50 lumens as it really spreads the light around because its totally non focused so the low on this light is just about right for that purpose. A single AAA light does everything lower than than round a campsite.

But for those low mode lovers I wouldnt fret too much, the EA4 has captured the attention of so many whether it be good or bad that I suspect quite a number of the manufacturers will jump into the stumpy 4AA market with plenty of features to choose from.


----------



## jomox

.+1.

.


----------



## markone

herosemblem said:


> I currently use Nimh rechargables in my EA4.
> I was also looking at some nicads, but the nicads had a lower mah rating.
> Anyone want to give me a primer on the differences between these two factors? Thank you.



Nowadays the only NiCd cells field of use is very high discharge rate devices (up to 20C) like electro hand tools, apart that you have only disadvantages vs other chemistry, self discharge rate & memory effect in first place.

Current low ESR LSD batteries are probably the best for flashlight like EA4 and i personally think that Eneloops should be preferred due to a proved continuity & uniformity in the supply, whereas other brands change cells type under same skin batteries too many times.

To finalize, i do not see a single reason to consider NiCd cells for this AWESOME flashlight


----------



## herosemblem

Thanks Mark! Glad I chose the nimh cells over the nicads. I originally planned on eneloops, but refrained only because it meant going to Costco, and for me, going to Costco means I will part with not money than intended because of their other awesome deals.


----------



## windsurf

Originally Posted by *herosemblem* 

 
I currently use Nimh rechargables in my EA4. 
I was also looking at some nicads, but the nicads had a lower mah rating. 
Anyone want to give me a primer on the differences between these two factors? Thank you.



markone said:


> Nowadays the only NiCd cells field of use is very high discharge rate devices (up to 20C) like electro hand tools, apart that you have only disadvantages vs other chemistry, self discharge rate & memory effect in first place.
> 
> Current low ESR LSD batteries are probably the best for flashlight like EA4 and i personally think that Eneloops should be preferred due to a proved continuity & uniformity in the supply, whereas other brands change cells type under same skin batteries too many times.
> 
> To finalize, i do not see a single reason to consider NiCd cells for this AWESOME flashlight



Absolutely right about the disadvantages of NiCds in the EA4. Even though NiCd is hardier (higher currents, probable longer service life) than NiMH, you can't get the higher capacity of the AA eneloops.

However, replacing NiCds with NiMH in older devices (portable phones, shavers, toys, etc) could be problematic depending on the built in charger. NiMH has a smaller negative Delta v (NDV). If the charger only responds to the larger NiCd NDV, it will likely miss it and overcharge the replacement NIMH.


----------



## markone

herosemblem said:


> Thanks Mark! Glad I chose the nimh cells over the nicads. I originally planned on eneloops, but refrained only because it meant going to Costco, and for me, going to Costco means I will part with not money than intended because of their other awesome deals.



We have no Costco here in Italy but from what i can see about it on Web/TV seems a great source for every kind of goods, unparalleled in the rest of the world !

Just out of curiosity, which NiMh brand/model you bought ?


----------



## herosemblem

I got my NiMh batteries from Harbor Freight hardware store. They are called "Thunderbolt Magnum" and were $6 for a 4-pack, with supposedly up to 1000 recharge cycles. 2200mAh. 
The other ones from the hardware store were another brand, 1900 mAh, and were Ni-Cad chemistry, and were $4 for a 4-pack, with an alleged 800 recharge cycles.
The Costco Eneloops that I did not buy either came in white packaging, or had white battery wrappers, or both. 



markone said:


> We have no Costco here in Italy but from what i can see about it on Web/TV seems a great source for every kind of goods, unparalleled in the rest of the world !
> 
> Just out of curiosity, which NiMh brand/model you bought ?


----------



## tickled

Beacon of Light said:


> The ZL S6330 is marketed as a search light then as the thing has 3 times the lumens as the EA4 yet it still is considerate about runtime with a YEAR of runtime on low as opposed to a measly 22 hours.


 Really how many people need 1 year of sub-1 lumen light because they can't get access to batteries more than once within a 365 day period? I would imagine that number of people is astonishingly small. Although a 5-10 lumen mode would be nice (for ceiling bounce) which I think is a far more applicable scenario for most people than your given example.

As for Zebralight, it's vaporware until it's in hand. Even the Q50 would have gone dead in the time between the originally given release date and now (and who knows when it will come out).

The cool white EA4 has come back into stock at my usual vendor. Hopefully the neutral won't be too far behind.


----------



## markone

herosemblem said:


> I got my NiMh batteries from Harbor Freight hardware store. They are called "Thunderbolt Magnum" and were $6 for a 4-pack, with supposedly up to 1000 recharge cycles. 2200mAh.
> The other ones from the hardware store were another brand, 1900 mAh, and were Ni-Cad chemistry, and were $4 for a 4-pack, with an alleged 800 recharge cycles.
> The Costco Eneloops that I did not buy either came in white packaging, or had white battery wrappers, or both.



Maybe these ones :

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?314745-Thunderbolt-Magnum-LSD-AA-vs-Eneloop ?

If positive, seem not bad for the price even if long term reliability remain to be verified.


----------



## jazzelwood

Just tried it out and the lows are fine out here on the farm.... Probably won't be using it too much as the high and turbo will be the ones I need. 
The best part is the 4x AA - awesome! and I just ordered the eneloop on Amazon. Good to go 
Thanks to everyone for their constructive input.
Ps I got this light because of your banner ad...so there's that


----------



## AbnInfantry

I received my Nitecore EA4 in the mail today from Illumination Supply and am very impressed with this light so far. I wish the EA4 had a genuine low (IMHO calling 65 lumens "ultra-low" is ridiculous), but I still think it's a great light. Indoors, the beam pattern is as good as I'd expect from an orange peel reflector. I really like the lanyard which comes with the EA4; wish I had several of these to replace the lanyards on some Fenix and other brand flashlights.


----------



## roadkill1109

AbnInfantry said:


> I received my Nitecore EA4 in the mail today from Illumination Supply and am very impressed with this light so far. I wish the EA4 had a genuine low (IMHO calling 65 lumens "ultra-low" is ridiculous), but I still think it's a great light. Indoors, the beam pattern is as good as I'd expect from an orange peel reflector. I really like the lanyard which comes with the EA4; wish I had several of these to replace the lanyards on some Fenix and other brand flashlights.



You could contact Nitecore and order some more lanyards from them. I have done so (with Nitecore) in the past, as well as from Sunwayman, and Crelant. They are more than happy to entertain our orders for additional stuff like lanyards.


----------



## roadkill1109

jazzelwood said:


> Just tried it out and the lows are fine out here on the farm.... Probably won't be using it too much as the high and turbo will be the ones I need.
> The best part is the 4x AA - awesome! and I just ordered the eneloop on Amazon. Good to go
> Thanks to everyone for their constructive input.
> Ps I got this light because of your banner ad...so there's that



Congrats on your purchase!  Have done the same recently in an E-bay bid! (60 dollars shipped Yay!)


----------



## was_jlh

Has anyone found a decent holster for this light? I abhor the one that came with it. Currently I am using a heavily modified Olight M20 holster.

AbnInfantry, check your PMs.


----------



## fatbrad

I really like my EA4 (NW). I have noticed with all the snow recently, that at about 10ft from a white surface I see a donut hole of sorts. Although, since the center is still very bright, it might be more accurate to call it a bright ring around the hot spot. When I look at it, the hot spot looks a little yellow compared to the bright ring. I can't quite tell if it is a color variation or just an intensity variation. Anybody else notice this? 

It does nothing to reduce the usefulness of the light and at longer distances where a dark hole would be noticeable, the center of the hot spot is very bright.

Some asked about form factor. I often find myself carrying it between my thumb and first finger with on digit on each flat and the end cap in my palm. This works pretty well and is comfortable with a thick pair of winter gloves.

I also think that the lanyard is very nice. I really like having a good lanyard when walking the dogs (managing two leashes, flashlight, and poop bags).

Someone was asking about how to tell if they had the NW, mine has EA4W printed on the side of the flashlight. The photos of the cool white just showed EA4 printed on the side.


----------



## Verndog

What an awesome light! Just got done trying the EA4 and the new EC25 out this evening, from Illumination supply also. Both are NW, and the tint is perfect. Tint is right in between my LD41 U2 and the EagleTac D25LC2 that is a NW also. Very good useable spill with plenty of throw, especially for a stubber. Love the modes and especially like the 300L with 4.5 hours. Great outdoor mode with runtime and brightness combination that has little need to switch modes. The lower modes are good for indoor low/ high and if I desire low lumen I'll just grab something that fit's in my teeth like I normally would, or even a headlamp possibly. This thing on high lights my tallest fir tree tops at the end of my 300ft. lot with ease. I was thinking of a TK41 U2...no more though....4 cells is enough. Pretty sure I'll be ordering another to keep in the motorhome.


----------



## Yourfun2

fatbrad said:


> I really like my EA4 (NW). I have noticed with all the snow recently, that at about 10ft from a white surface I see a donut hole of sorts. Although, since the center is still very bright, it might be more accurate to call it a bright ring around the hot spot. When I look at it, the hot spot looks a little yellow compared to the bright ring. I can't quite tell if it is a color variation or just an intensity variation. Anybody else notice this?



I recently went through several neutrals and they all had doughnut holes. Maybe they are all that way?


----------



## dc38

Yourfun2 said:


> I recently went through several neutrals and they all had doughnut holes. Maybe they are all that way?


most smooth reflectors will have donuts...im in the process of designing a more squared reflector with rounded sides and rounded corners as to reduce donut holing in a beam...so far itsworking, but will be expensive to machine...rounded reflectors plus square leds will always donut to a certain degree. it might cost less but waste more to just have a round led


----------



## Verndog

Another observation. The voltage feedback is brilliant and accurate. Mine indicated at 5.2, I pulled all the cells and added the voltage up and got 5.18....pretty dang close. So what do you guys think is a good change voltage for LSD Eneloops? I'm guessing 4.9 is pretty close to change time. Been rockin on turbo and it's a mah hog.


----------



## herosemblem

I cannot locate any donut hole in my neutral.


----------



## sbbsga

My EA4's have been with me for about 2 weeks now. I would like to think that they are the upgraded version of my mighty Jetbeam PA40W's. 

From my experience, in very low ambient light condition especially in unfamiliar terrain, I like the rather bright Micro mode - blunder or not. I could still continue walking while cycling from High going through Micro to Medium because the Micro is bright enough and my eyes are not strained from the huge drop of light output. 

The price of ageing, I guess.


----------



## Timothybil

AbnInfantry said:


> I really like the lanyard which comes with the EA4; wish I had several of these to replace the lanyards on some Fenix and other brand flashlights.


 Check out Lumens Factory. They sell similiar ones for about $2.


----------



## Verndog

Question. Do others notice the flash locator on switch is prob. 2x as bright on the voltage indicator mode then while it's idle and in locator mode? Mine is not real easy to see in locator mode, and I'm guessing they reduced it for less parasitic drain? Is this norm??


----------



## Palaeoboy

Verndog said:


> Question. Do others notice the flash locator on switch is prob. 2x as bright on the voltage indicator mode then while it's idle and in locator mode? Mine is not real easy to see in locator mode, and I'm guessing they reduced it for less parasitic drain? Is this norm??



Mines exactly the same as yours. If the locator was as bright as the voltage mode indicator it may be usable as a locator but as it is I cant see it working as such. Off axis you cant even see it flashing.


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## Verndog

Palaeoboy said:


> Mines exactly the same as yours. If the locator was as bright as the voltage mode indicator it may be usable as a locator but as it is I cant see it working as such. Off axis you cant even see it flashing.



Glad to hear mine is at least "normal" then. I tried it in a dark room after my eyes adjusted and yes I can see it if "on axis" (pointing at you). I also picked up the EC25 and that one is actually too bright! Right in between would be perfect. No worries, love them both. Getting the light to shine through that membrane is prob. a bit tricky.


----------



## GlassMan

Hello everyone,
I ordered two of the EA4's today, that was before I came here. Looks like a lot of positve for this light.

Just wanted to make a comment on the battery's. I have been using the *Sanyo XX LD* battery's lately and they are working very will. They are 2400 mAh and are considered "professional grade" from what I've read.


----------



## cubebike

Just got the EA4. Very very impressive for quality and UI


----------



## Verndog

I just put #2 NW on order. At $59.00 shipped this is a steal! I plan to turn this into a flooder for home and only 1 acre to light up. 

Illumination Supply still has these in stock.* Discount code EA4 for $59.00 shipped!*


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## mikekoz

I just got two of these in today (cool white) and am already in love with this light! I have also found an interesting accessory for one...a rubber anti roll ring from my Streamlight Stinger. It fits perfectly on the end of the light. I may be crazy, but I may order a third in neutral white! :devil:




Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## kriston_k

Got my EA4 neutral white today from Illumination Supply. Nice quality. UI takes some getting used to. Form factor is different, but nice. Bridges the gap between LD10 and TK41 nicely. Also, provides a nice alternative to my TK20 - solid feel, with additional output modes.

Sorry I can't be more technical in my opinion (don't know as much as a lot of ppl on the forum). For those sitting on the fence (as I was) I think it's worth buying. Nice if you need a bit of throw and like AA, but don't want to cart around a large light. Only small gripe is the lack of a true low low (sorry for sounding like a broken record) but to be fair, the light is marketed as a searchlight.

Also, no apparent donut in the beam of my NW


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Rejoice EA4 users for your desire for a low/moonlight mode has been answered (tongue in cheek). 

Way back when I first noted that there was a rattle, I wanted to pose the question to other owners to see if it wasn’t just my sample. We found out that it’s a hit or miss and some do and some don’t have it.

As for the moonlight mode I’m referring to, it only lasts 3 minutes. Sounds familiar? Yes, it is the quirk/glitch aka the Tactical decoy as someone coined it earlier in the thread. It is accessed by doing a full press of the switch when the light is in SOS mode. Once this is done, the light will turn off with the blue indicator light on constantly. Unless your room has all the lights turned off, you will not know that the led is on – as it’s ridiculously dim. I’d say it’s probably 0.005 lumens or something. For comparison, I’ve only had a quark turbo and a thrunite ti (firefly version) to compare it to and it is subjectively 6 times dimmer than the quark turbo and probably 3 times dimmer than the thrunite ti. Honestly, it’s not really usable unless you’ve got it super close to something…. but hey…. we wanted a moonlight mode right?

Hahah how about that eh? A glitch to give us a moonlight silhouette mode that last only for 3 minutes only to end in blinding 860 lumens turbo if we’re not timing it. LOL!

There is a way to go to it without going through the blinding modes, strobe then sos, but you have to be very precise. It’s quite simple… really… Cover the bezel with your hand or anything else and go through the steps to get to tactical decoy mode. You’ll know you’re there if the blue indicator light is constantly on. Remove hand and… voila….. moonlight silhouette mode! lol….

Check your light and see if it’s like mines or if I’m the only one with this hidden of hidden modes.


----------



## GordoJones88

I guess I'm completely unique in this regard. I've used my EA4 on Turbo for 99% of the time so far. I bumped it down to Micro once, and determined it was too dim to be of any use for me. I haven't shaken it to check for any rattles, I haven't rolled it across the floor, or submerged it in a glass of water overnight. I've taken it out to the fields with my dog looking at deer, turkey, and other critters. Kind of like a compact spotlight or "searchlight" if you will.

Did you know when properly spooked, a wild turkey will fly straight up a tree 30 feet and perch on a branch?


----------



## mikekoz

Both of mine have that rattle and it is odd, but you do not hear it while using the light. The instructions also mention 8 brightness modes, but there is only 5, unless it is talking about the three SOS/Strobe modes.


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## FoxyRick

GordoJones88 said:


> I guess I'm completely unique in this regard. I've used my EA4 on Turbo for 99% of the time so far. I bumped it down to Micro once, and determined it was too dim to be of any use for me.



Same here really, although in the garden I could use it on a lower setting if I for some reason I was worried about the world running out of Eneloops.

I might have to do the dunk test some time though, just for total confidence, as I do end up in heavy rain quite often.



GordoJones88 said:


> Did you know when properly spooked, a wild turkey will fly straight up a tree 30 feet and perch on a branch?



If you came at me with the EA4 blazing, I'm sure I would fly straight up the 30 foot tree too


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## Verndog

*Has anybody found a good quality 40MM diffuser cap for the EA4?*

I converted 1 light with self adhesive diffuser screen and this is awesome for closer work and indoors. A nice cap would be even better, but I haven't found one yet. This would be a huge plus...anyone have any ideas?


----------



## Yourfun2

Search this thread and you will find pics and 2 different sources for a diffuser.


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## dparr

I just ordered a EA4 from BJ. Looks like the perfect flashlight for me. Hopefully it will ship tommorow.

I will be using it to look for high hidden passages and to shine down those huge trunk passages in the Tennessee caves that I explore. 

A fun and outrageously bright little flashlight. Looks like Nitecore has a real winner.
I'll report back after I take it on a good caving trip.

All the best.


----------



## Timothybil

Quick question for the EA4 experts here. I was rereading the User Manual again (Both Pages!) and noticed something I had overlooked before. In the little table above the ANSI chart where they display which battery combinations are allowed/recommended I noticed that regular Alkaline AAs and NiMH AAs are recommended, but Lithium AAs or only allowed. I would have thought that since lithiums have a higher energy density and no leakage problems, they would have been in the recommeded category as well. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## roadkill1109

Timothybil said:


> Quick question for the EA4 experts here. I was rereading the User Manual again (Both Pages!) and noticed something I had overlooked before. In the little table above the ANSI chart where they display which battery combinations are allowed/recommended I noticed that regular Alkaline AAs and NiMH AAs are recommended, but Lithium AAs or only allowed. I would have thought that since lithiums have a higher energy density and no leakage problems, they would have been in the recommeded category as well. Anyone have any ideas?



You know, the reason why they said lithium AA's only allowed is probably because (after testing the Energizer lithuim i have here) the voltage is almost 1.8 volts. It probably pushes the light to its max voltage limits. Unless you plan to keep the light for years in storage, might as well get good LSD (low self-discharge) rechargeable batteries like the Sanyo Eneloops. These batteries arrive pre-charged and ready to go and can last several years... mine have been pushing over 8 years now.


----------



## roadkill1109

Also, since the Chinese translated the manual from chinese to english, what they probably meant to say is that only Lithium AA (meaning batteries like the Energizer Lithium) and not the 14500 Lithiums that are waaay much higher in voltage which will definitely kill the light as that would be a total of 16.8 volts going through its circuits... (burned flashlight, anyone? pipebomb perhaps? hehehe)


----------



## mikekoz

roadkill1109 said:


> Also, since the Chinese translated the manual from chinese to english, what they probably meant to say is that only Lithium AA (meaning batteries like the Energizer Lithium) and not the 14500 Lithiums that are waaay much higher in voltage which will definitely kill the light as that would be a total of 16.8 volts going through its circuits... (burned flashlight, anyone? pipebomb perhaps? hehehe)




I wonder what the max input voltage is for this light? I have some NIZN rechargeables I was going to try in one of mine. They can be 1.7v-1.8v off the charger. They are rated at 1.6v as their normal voltage. I have used them in other lights and they work fine.


----------



## grepeyre

mikekoz said:


> I wonder what the max input voltage is for this light? I have some NIZN rechargeables I was going to try in one of mine. They can be 1.7v-1.8v off the charger. They are rated at 1.6v as their normal voltage. I have used them in other lights and they work fine.



I bought some new alkaline batteries and fresh out of the packet they showed a voltage of 6.4v. That's 1.6v on each battery, so 1.7v should be fine. Probably...

By the way, the torch is great. I'm now appreciating a good spill, I didn't know a handheld device could light up so much  but the thing is not all AA batteries will give the 860lm output. I've used a few types of available and not "over priced" non-rechargeable batteries and none (even alkaline) have gotten that turbo mode going as it should. The High mode works fine though for a while. And with the blue light really flashing... can't wait for the eneloops to arrive.


----------



## Palaeoboy

Having use the EA4 this past week I definitely havent missed a lower lumen mode. Just before I found out about this light I bought a Fenix E50. I use it in its reduced size with one rechargeable battery. Those that estimated that the NW EA4 was about 780 Lumens is pretty accurate as the E50 NW is rated at 780 Lumens and both lights have almost identical brightness and sized hot spot. The E50 has a lower lumen mode but I find for general round the yard use I always bump it up one step to 74l. The E50 has a big gap however between high and turbo 236 to 780 so with the EA4 starting at 65 its able to offer more evenly spaced gaps to its turbo mode. The fact that both lights cost the same money and the EA4 having many more features it really is great value for money. The 65l low is fine.

For those wanting a diffuser Fenix have announced a new one that fits their E50 http://www.fenixlight.com/viewnproduct.asp?id=135 it has a 40mm head diameter exactly the same as the EA4 so this diffuser would be good for those that cant wait till Nitecore comes out with theirs.


----------



## dparr

Some very cool pics in this review: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/nitecore/20219-review-nitecore-ea4-pioneer-860-ansi-lumen-max.html

Great Neutral White VS. Cool White pics here: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/nitecore/20590-review-nitecore-ea4-pioneer.html


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## kotarak

I think i came up with a pretty good idea. i made a nice and quick diffuser by cutting a ping-pong ball and creating a small dome shaped diffuser that fits inside the bezzel. cutting can be a bit tricky but if you cut it just right it will snap inside and hold firmly. i found that ping-pong balls can be used to make diffusers for variety of lights. Different brands balls have different plastic thickness and tint but it works just fine. 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2


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## READYSETGO

Great idea on the ping pong ball. I'll steal and try your method!


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## Rikr

The EA4 is one of the best lights of the year...:twothumbs


----------



## betweenrides

Rikr said:


> The EA4 is one of the best lights of the year...:twothumbs



Agreed, Rick! I'm loving mine. great runtime and performance.


----------



## sbbsga

kotarak said:


> I think i came up with a pretty good idea. i made a nice and quick diffuser by cutting a ping-pong ball and creating a small dome shaped diffuser that fits inside the bezzel. cutting can be a bit tricky but if you cut it just right it will snap inside and hold firmly. i found that ping-pong balls can be used to make diffusers for variety of lights. Different brands balls have different plastic thickness and tint but it works just fine.
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2



Awesome idea, thank you. But if you want a crushproof diffuser, you could find it here. http://www.intl-outdoor.com/white-soft-silicone-flashlight-large-diffuser-p-300.html. I have been using this on my PA40W and Predator V2.0 before EA4's arrival.

There is also another shop selling it at a lower price but it was posted in one of many EA4 threads in this forum. 30 cents cheaper if I remember correctly.


----------



## Tiberius1

I like the button on the EC25 more.


----------



## jmpaul320

Rikr said:


> The EA4 is one of the best lights of the year...:twothumbs



The ea4 and skyray king are my fav. lights of 2012


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## dc38

jmpaul320 said:


> The ea4 and skyray king are my fav. lights of 2012


True story, those are the two last lights I have purchased thus far...although the ea4 is quite a bit more practical when running for extended periods. by the way, i think nitecore has answered some people's requests for a lower low, albeit in a similar form factor to the cobra


----------



## Verndog

Tiberius1 said:


> I like the button on the EC25 more.



I like them both. They could not get away with the camera type button the EC25 has on the EA4 because it would protrude too far. They can get away with it on the EC25 because of the milled cutout that protect it from accidental on, plus the EC25 has 1/4 turn lockout.


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## Kingfisher

Rikr said:


> The EA4 is one of the best lights of the year...:twothumbs



I agree also. At first I found the switching a bit fiddly, but now I've had it for a week or so I'm liking everything about this light. The big seller for me (apart from 860lm) is the use of AA batteries. I take pics of all my new stuff.


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## roadkill1109

nice photos! can't wait to receive mine...


----------



## markr6

That's cool seeing the 'W' on the EA4W...I got an early neutral white and it just says "EA4" on it. I guess they're just trying to confuse the hell out of me.


----------



## mikekoz

markr6 said:


> That's cool seeing the 'W' on the EA4W...I got an early neutral white and it just says "EA4" on it. I guess they're just trying to confuse the hell out of me.





Interesting! I just got a neutral version today , and it just has "EA4" on the side.


----------



## Verndog

mikekoz said:


> Interesting! I just got a neutral version today , and it just has "EA4" on the side.



Both my neutrals do not have W either. My second one was from Illumination supply and their 2nd shipment also. The boxes have the W though.

BTW I just checked and they are sold out again for the 2nd time...this one was less then 1 week. Going like hotcakes without firefly mode no less. :laughing:


----------



## PhatPhil

Just had an email back from Nitecore about a couple of things.

Looks like an EA8 is in the pipeline and will be released soon :twothumbs


----------



## pyro1son

I've had mine for almost two weeks now and I love this little light! Small, compact, huge throw, 860 lumens and runs on AA.
Still waiting for my Eneloops to turn up but cant put this little torch down! 

Here are some photos of the light for any body interested





EA4W 














Comparison of size






View of the tailcap






Good square threads






Nice view of the emitter






I've wrapped mine with pararcord for a better grip and to protect it a little, also make it abit easier to find in low light.


It is a really nice light.


----------



## jmpaul320

PhatPhil said:


> Just had an email back from Nitecore about a couple of things.
> 
> Looks like an EA8 is in the pipeline and will be released soon :twothumbs



Any more details about this?


----------



## Gauntlet3D

I just got mine delivered stateside, my wife opened it and tried it for me over skype. It was cool until as she was turning it on for the first time. I said don't look at..........too late, blinded. Not funny but I couldn't help giggling a little.


----------



## sbbsga

PhatPhil said:


> Just had an email back from Nitecore about a couple of things.
> 
> Looks like an EA8 is in the pipeline and will be released soon :twothumbs



Battery compartment twice longer? TK41 competitor? Good thing I have not purchased more EA4's yet.


----------



## dc38

sbbsga said:


> Battery compartment twice longer? TK41 competitor? Good thing I have not purchased more EA4's yet.


if its 80$+, it will be the same price I got my tk41 for...shipped...besides, somebody already cracked their lens dropping an ea4 onto tile from table top height...how much more stuff the potential ea8 would have behind a fall...however, it should offer around 185% the runtime of the existing ea4 right? maybe a driver sqap could be done with the ea4 to let it take 14500's lol


----------



## sbbsga

dc38 said:


> if its 80$+, it will be the same price I got my tk41 for...shipped...besides, somebody already cracked their lens dropping an ea4 onto tile from table top height...how much more stuff the potential ea8 would have behind a fall...however, it should offer around 185% the runtime of the existing ea4 right? maybe a driver sqap could be done with the ea4 to let it take 14500's lol



I have no idea how EA8 will turn out. If it is true, hopefully EA4's problems or shortcomings will be ironed out in EA8.

14500's in EA4 would be incredible.


----------



## dougie

I've just received my EA4. My first impressions are good. However, I'm not blind to some of its shortcomings which I've found. In my opinion the switch should have been recessed and the LED used to illuminate it made more visible. The UI is not perfect but is for my purposes reasonable. The bezel despite the stainless steel ring appears vulnerable to damage and doesn't prevent the light rolling. Despite these criticisms the light is what it is, a useful, powerful and compact 4 x AA powered flashlight. With few other lights to compare with it is an excellent product and hopefully will inspire better and improved versions.


----------



## bthrel

mikekoz said:


> Interesting! I just got a neutral version today , and it just has "EA4" on the side.



Just received my EA4 and EC25 neutrals , both have the W on them as well as the bottom of the box.. also no matter how hard I try I can't duplicate the bug on the EA4 or what ever you call it where you quick full press during SOS and the it turns off with the button LED lit then turns back on after 3 min,, bug fixed perhaps? ( As mentioned way back in post 434 http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...(4*AA-860lm)&p=4097635&viewfull=1#post4097635 )

Update; Interestingly enough I can easily duplicate this on my EC25...


----------



## Kokopelli

And now it is (U2 CW) sold for 46.5USD inc registered International Shipping (after a %5 discount) on a reputable, rather new but brilliant Chinese seller, FT (!hint!). Just waiting for the NW version to be added, and than, BAAM, I'll have a second one.


----------



## dc38

Kokopelli said:


> And now it is (U2 CW) sold for 46.5USD inc registered International Shipping (after a %5 discount) on a reputable, rather new but brilliant Chinese seller, FT (!hint!). Just waiting for the NW version to be added, and than, BAAM, I'll have a second one.


well then...thats a record low i think...maybe im in for a cool white after all lol...


----------



## Dubois

Kokopelli said:


> And now it is (U2 CW) sold for 46.5USD inc registered International Shipping (after a %5 discount) on a reputable, rather new but brilliant Chinese seller, FT (!hint!). Just waiting for the NW version to be added, and than, BAAM, I'll have a second one.



Since Fasttech advertise in the Marketplace, I don't think there is a problem naming them.


----------



## Beamhead

I finally got a hold of both the beer can and toidy roll lights, like them both I just wish the TM11 had the same UI as the EA4 with the only exception being the lockout, I prefer the 3 click on the TM11.


----------



## Verndog

Cool pic! Whats the max output on the beer can light? That thing looks like it could burn your eyes out!!! :thumbsup:


----------



## FoxyRick

Kokopelli said:


> And now it is (U2 CW) sold for 46.5USD inc registered International Shipping (after a %5 discount) on a reputable, rather new but brilliant Chinese seller, FT (!hint!). Just waiting for the NW version to be added, and than, BAAM, I'll have a second one.



Just a heads-up since fasttech has been mentioned - I've just had an email from them saying most of their stock (80%) is actually NW, not the CW as advertised... might be worth checking the site.


----------



## markone

FoxyRick said:


> ... might be worth checking the site.



Mmmh, party expired .... price updated to 69.95 USD :shakehead

My reading is that FT just decided to stop to sell EA4s abroad.

Last night i was with the finger on the trigger on their site, now i have my hand in the pocket ...


----------



## Beamhead




----------



## mikekoz

Beamhead said:


>






I like that! Would like to see more pictures of it, maybe a few from the front to get a better idea of what it looks like. Oh yeah, where did you get it?? :twothumbs


----------



## sbbsga

Beamhead, do the o-rings stay close to the body on the flat sides?


----------



## Beamhead

mikekoz said:


> I like that! Would like to see more pictures of it, maybe a few from the front to get a better idea of what it looks like. Oh yeah, where did you get it?? :twothumbs


It is the diffuser from an O light S35 pushed on so far the difusser pops out. 







sbbsga said:


> Beamhead, do the o-rings stay close to the body on the flat sides?



yes, they are small and need forced on, the pic kind of shows them riding the flat side on the lower left.


----------



## sbbsga

Beamhead said:


> It is the diffuser from an O light S35 pushed on so far the difusser pops out.
> 
> yes, they are small and need forced on, the pic kind of shows them riding the flat side on the lower left.



Thank you. :twothumbs


----------



## markr6

My EA4 has been sitting for about two weeks with very little usage. I would guess a minute here and there on turbo for a total of <25min. I just decided to check the voltage of my Eneloop XX inside and they were all about dead at 1.17v-1.19v!!! This is not good. I did not have it on lockout but there's no way that should have killed 2500mAh batteries so quickly.


----------



## sbbsga

markr6 said:


> My EA4 has been sitting for about two weeks with very little usage. I would guess a minute here and there on turbo for a total of <25min. I just decided to check the voltage of my Eneloop XX inside and they were all about dead at 1.17v-1.19v!!! This is not good. I did not have it on lockout but there's no way that should have killed 2500mAh batteries so quickly.



That is alarming. I assume they were nearly full when you left them back then?


----------



## GordoJones88

markr6 said:


> My EA4 has been sitting for about two weeks with very little usage. I would guess a minute here and there on turbo for a total of <25min. I just decided to check the voltage of my Eneloop XX inside and they were all about dead at 1.17v-1.19v!!! This is not good. I did not have it on lockout but there's no way that should have killed 2500mAh batteries so quickly.



30 minutes of 850 lumen turbo seems about right. It's fine.


----------



## markr6

Yes these were fully charged when placed in the light. Under 25 minutes of run is pretty bad. I'll have to do an actual timed test in the next few days to make sure I'm getting reliable run times and watch the drain while not in Yes these were fully charged when placed in the light. Under 25 minutes of run is pretty bad. I'll have to do an actual timed test in the next few days to make sure I'm getting reliable run times and watch the drain while not in lockout.

I ran a test on the Eneloop XX batteries overnight. Capacities were 2510, 2540, 2540, 2520


----------



## windsurf

markr6 said:


> My EA4 has been sitting for about two weeks with very little usage. I would guess a minute here and there on turbo for a total of <25min. I just decided to check the voltage of my Eneloop XX inside and they were all about dead at 1.17v-1.19v!!! This is not good. I did not have it on lockout but there's no way that should have killed 2500mAh batteries so quickly.


Zoom posted in the Tashenlampen German forum that he measured 113.uA when the EA4 was completely off and 6.mA while the blue LED was lit in standby. His early EA4, like mine, flashes the LED at about 50% duty cycle (on ~2sec, off ~2 sec). This gives an equivalent constant 3mA. Using your batteries: 2500mAh / 3mA = 833hrs = 35 days til complete drain. 

This same poster received a newer EA4W and reports that the LED now flashes in standby at 1/10sec once every three seconds. If accurate, Nitecore decreased the indicator LED drain by a factor of 15! He also posted that the SOS/auto turn on bug is fixed in his new light.


----------



## Eric242

windsurf said:


> .......and reports that the LED now flashes in standby at 1/10sec once every three seconds.


That´s definitly what mine is doing.

Eric


----------



## markr6

Eric242 said:


> That´s definitly what mine is doing.
> 
> Eric



Same here.


----------



## gopajti




----------



## READYSETGO

Thanks for posting the propoganda film. I like!


----------



## roadkill1109

Cool video! And a good purchase for this light! Really shows how much this light is really worth it!


----------



## markr6

gopajti said:


>




LOL flashback to the 80's!! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Eric242

....after strict testing and QC.......well that´s the more questionable part with Nitcore.
But I liked seeing the laser engraving......

Eric


----------



## JDest

Just a heads up for those still on the fence about this light. Currently available From a legiT dealer for $46 and change (including discount code). PM me if you need, but you can probably Find iT yourself.


----------



## markone

windsurf said:


> This gives an equivalent constant 3mA. Using your batteries: 2500mAh / 3mA = 833hrs = 35 days til complete drain.



Same here.

To be honest i suspected that switch beacon LED was not there at zero battery cost from the very first day.
Normally you need some mA to light-up a standard led.

The issue here resides in the very low efficiency switch LED light guide, resulting in a VERY LOW emitted lux versus spent power,
in my opinion not worth the resulting battery loss.

Due to this i'm putting in lock out the flashlight after every usage.


----------



## RBH

According to Nitecore that remains to be seen



JDest said:


> Currently available From a legiT dealer for $46 and change (including discount code).


----------



## Blacklight73

Eric242 said:


> That´s definitly what mine is doing.
> 
> Eric



My new EA4 also flashes for 1/10 second every two seconds, compared to the one or two second flash of my first one. I though maybe something was wrong with the new one. BTW, I had to return my first EA4 because the switch didn't click when fully pressing. Also when installing batteries it would not turn on. :thumbsdow


----------



## JDest

RBH said:


> According to Nitecore that remains to be seen



Don't believe everything you hear.


----------



## dc38

JDest said:


> Don't believe everything you hear.


well, if you guys mean ft, the price is up to 54.60 now. if anybody would like to share a coupon code....please? lol


----------



## Divine_Madcat

So, if we have a "high drain" model, should we look to Nitecore to exchange it?

Truthfully, i always lock it out anyway, because of the silly locator. Even at the lowest power, it will draw power, so I try to avoid it. But there is that nagging part of me that says knowing i have something that may have issues bugs me...


----------



## Badbeams3

Divine_Madcat said:


> So, if we have a "high drain" model, should we look to Nitecore to exchange it?
> 
> Truthfully, i always lock it out anyway, because of the silly locator. Even at the lowest power, it will draw power, so I try to avoid it. But there is that nagging part of me that says knowing i have something that may have issues bugs me...



I have a Ec25 on the way. I expect it is the same circuitry and will have the same high drain rate. The solution for that light is twisting the tail cap 1/4 turn for a full lockout. Is there some mechanical way to do that on the EA4?


----------



## Verndog

Badbeams3 said:


> I have a Ec25 on the way. I expect it is the same circuitry and will have the same high drain rate. The solution for that light is twisting the tail cap 1/4 turn for a full lockout. Is there some mechanical way to do that on the EA4?



No "true" lockout" on the EA4. Just full off mode with long full press.


----------



## JDest

dc38, shoot me a PM.


----------



## GordoJones88

Nitecore EA8 "Caveman" 8xAA Compact Searchlight










Eagletac SX25A6 6xAA 













"So easy, even a caveman can use it."


----------



## Eric242

I just saw that too. And if you guys want to see the video from Stu: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?353631-Shore-Power-SHOT-2013

Eric


----------



## crazyk4952

Eric242 said:


> I just saw that too. And if you guy want to see the video from Stu: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?353631-Shore-Power-SHOT-2013
> 
> Eric



Awesome video. Why does it seem like the person behind the camera knows more than the sales rep?!


----------



## Bumble

crazyk4952 said:


> Awesome video. Why does it seem like the person behind the camera knows more than the sales rep?!



exactly what i was thinking too... it does sound like at around 5 min 40 that he quotes the lumens of the ea8 "of at least 2000 something lumens" ? apologies in advance if im wrong due to lousy speakers on my laptop,but if im right umm 2000 lumens ???!!! mmmm not so sure about that....


----------



## dougie

It would appear that there is a load of improvements to the basic design from the EA4 to the EA8. I still would have preferred a better looking switch but as I assume that particular one shown is a prototype maybe there will be some more improvements before it hits the shelves? At any rate I like the overall design aesthetics and the fact that it uses AA's. This will definitely be on the shopping list!


----------



## windsurf

Badbeams3 said:


> I have a Ec25 on the way. I expect it is the same circuitry and will have the same high drain rate. The solution for that light is twisting the tail cap 1/4 turn for a full lockout. Is there some mechanical way to do that on the EA4?



No need to worry about the EA4 when in *lockout mode*. Reported current draw was 113 microamps. 
2000mAh eneloops / 0.113mA = 17,699 hrs or *737 days*:twothumbs

Since I've got one of the 'older' 50% duty cycle LED standby lights, I tend to use lockout mode at the end of the night.


----------



## T-roc87

Bumble said:


> exactly what i was thinking too... it does sound like at around 5 min 40 that he quotes the lumens of the ea8 "of at least 2000 something lumens" ? apologies in advance if im wrong due to lousy speakers on my laptop,but if im right umm 2000 lumens ???!!! mmmm not so sure about that....



Thats what i took it as too but the sales rep seemed a bit lost on numbers... If it is over 2000 lumens it looks like my wallet is taking another hit after buying the ea4w which is an awesome little light!


----------



## GordoJones88

An XML emitter does not have that kind of output.


----------



## RBH

And if it did, how long woud it run at that level, ten minutes?


GordoJones88 said:


> An XML emitter does not have that kind of output.


----------



## Yourfun2

It has a larger head, so may have 3 emitters. Run time on turbo would be less than the EA4.


----------



## GordoJones88

Yourfun2 said:


> It has a larger head, so may have 3 emitters. Run time on turbo would be less than the EA4.



No. The larger head is for more throw. They show it in the video at 1:44 with just 1 LED.


----------



## T-roc87

GordoJones88 said:


> No. The larger head is for more throw. They show it in the video at 1:44 with just 1 LED.



For sure more throw. The only led that could do that on its own is basically the sst-90... But that is a pretty big led among other things


----------



## cyrobyte

My ea4's switch button become like this after put inside the car for whole day...


----------



## Verndog

cyrobyte said:


> My ea4's switch button become like this after put inside the car for whole day...



Wow, what do you think was the cause? Was your car very hot (by the heater) or really cold? It almost looks like something is trapped under the membrane.


----------



## T-roc87

cyrobyte said:


> My ea4's switch button become like this after put inside the car for whole day...



Possibly the batteries venting??


----------



## Verndog

T-roc87 said:


> Possibly the batteries venting??



Ut oh...that makes even more sense. Better point that end cap in a safe direction when you open to check!!


----------



## FoxyRick

Could it not simply be the inside of the flashlight getting warmed up, increasing the air pressure inside the air-tight body?

If it got quite hot (and it is black, so will absorb heat very well) it could also soften the rubber and make it stay in the bubbled-up state as it cools and sets again.

Those would be my first thoughts, anyway. (Now I'm waiting to be told the weather was cold all day...lol)


----------



## Badbeams3

Whatever the cause of the pressure build up, looks like we found it`s weakest point. And that sucks. The switch needs to be sealed, from the body chamber, at the factory to ensure future models don`t have this problem. Hope Nitecore addresses this issue.


----------



## dc38

not trying to be a donkey, but that is kinda funny :x i hipe my ea4 doesnt do that...


----------



## FoxyRick

Badbeams3 said:


> ... And that sucks ...



Not sucks... blows. Common misconception with pressure differences.






Sorry, I couldn't resist. I completely agree. Looks like there's another switch issue to add to the list.

Of course, it could be seen as a safety vent... (for every silver lining there's a cloud)


----------



## Badbeams3

"Hi, I like your flashlight...whats up with the black balloon stuck to it?" Oh, that`s the new hi-tech pressure relief switch...a Nitecore patented design. "Oh, nice...cushy too".


----------



## mikekoz

Is that your EA4 switch, or are you just happy to see me!!!! :nana: Kidding aside, as an owner of three EA4's, I hope you do not have a bad one!


----------



## Badbeams3

"So...how does this new pillow work?" 

Oh it`s great. You press this blue lite switch and the light turns on to let you know the inflation process has begun. After 3 minutes it drops down to a maintenance mode...keeps it warm and inflated. Great for those colder nights. And in a pinch, it can be used as a flashlight too. 

"Awesome, I`ll take two!"

Ok, enough poking fun at Nitecore. Let`s hope this is a fluke...


----------



## Verndog

Badbeams3 said:


> Whatever the cause of the pressure build up, looks like we found it`s weakest point. And that sucks. The switch needs to be sealed, from the body chamber



Disagree. It is sealed otherwise it would not be holding pressure there. This is a good sign IMO (provided the pressure increase started on the inside as it appears).


----------



## T-roc87

Verndog said:


> Disagree. It is sealed otherwise it would not be holding pressure there. This is a good sign IMO (provided the pressure increase started on the inside as it appears).



I think he means the switch be sealed off the body chamber itself so if the batteries are venting the gas can not collect in the switch. I would think this is a good thing almost. Otherwise if the gas has no were to go it could blow the front lens out.


----------



## Badbeams3

T-roc87 said:


> I think he means the switch be sealed off the body chamber itself so if the batteries are venting the gas can not collect in the switch. I would think this is a good thing almost. Otherwise if the gas has no were to go it could blow the front lens out.



Generally I agree, if it is the batts venting from overheating in the sun...and in the car. But...wish there was some other venting means in the body. That could ruin/deform the switch cover...we need more info to really make any judgments...still good for a laugh...or cry...


----------



## uzimy

FoxyRick said:


> Could it not simply be the inside of the flashlight getting warmed up, increasing the air pressure inside the air-tight body?
> 
> If it got quite hot (and it is black, so will absorb heat very well) it could also soften the rubber and make it stay in the bubbled-up state as it cools and sets again.
> 
> Those would be my first thoughts, anyway. (Now I'm waiting to be told the weather was cold all day...lol)



I guess must be a hot day.


----------



## uzimy

cyrobyte said:


> My ea4's switch button become like this after put inside the car for whole day...



Its a thermoplastic?
Hey, did you try to blow the rubber cap with hairdryer, while applying pressure on it. It may restore to its initial stage.

Did you get rattling noise? I suppose now the black plastic button underneath the rubber cap can rattle.


----------



## cyrobyte

Verndog said:


> Wow, what do you think was the cause? Was your car very hot (by the heater) or really cold? It almost looks like something is trapped under the membrane.


My car was park under the hot sun (35C). I would say probably the temperature could get up more than 45C inside the car. The flashlight still function normally, battery is in good condition. Rattling noise can be heard from the underneath of the switch.


----------



## uzimy

Well, this is another "not so cool" about EA4.


----------



## Norm

cyrobyte said:


> My car was park under the hot sun (35C). I would say probably the temperature could get up more than 45C inside the car. The flashlight still function normally, battery is in good condition. Rattling noise can be heard from the underneath of the switch.



The true temperature reached in your car is more likely to be around 60c, see my link of tests conducted in Australia where the inside temp reached 60c with an outside temp of around 30c.

Norm


----------



## Verndog

cyrobyte said:


> My car was park under the hot sun (35C). I would say probably the temperature could get up more than 45C inside the car. The flashlight still function normally, battery is in good condition. Rattling noise can be heard from the underneath of the switch.



35C?? Damn...that will melt your snowman quick!!


----------



## BongC36

The beam pattern of the EA4 seems a bit more "floody" than the TK41's. I like it better because the transition from the hot-spot in the center to the spill isn't so abrupt. Now if only I can mount a diffuser similar to the one fitted to the Fenix E05 then it will be perfect!


----------



## Dubois

Norm said:


> The true temperature reached in your car is more likely to be around 60c, see my link of tests conducted in Australia where the inside temp reached 60c with an outside temp of around 30c.
> 
> Norm



I totally agree - with an outside temperature of 35c, there is no way the inside temperature is just 45c - even 60c might be conservative.


----------



## kj2

Found this light even at DX today  price isn't bad.


----------



## Dubois

kj2 said:


> Found this light even at DX today  price isn't bad.



I think you will find that DX currently have no stock of the EA4W.


----------



## kj2

Dubois said:


> I think you will find that DX currently have no stock of the EA4W.



website still says in stock.


----------



## Dubois

kj2 said:


> website still says in stock.



You want to risk it? I know of one person who has had the dreaded "being restocked" email from DX. Mind you, I'm waiting on one from Fasttech.


----------



## kj2

Dubois said:


> You want to risk it? I know of one person who has had the dreaded "being restocked" email from DX. Mind you, I'm waiting on one from Fasttech.



I know, probably you will end-up waiting for a long time. Not buying one, already have a Fenix TK35


----------



## d4n1

I'm waiting for EA4w, and I can not wait ...
I have looking forward to it.
I think I love it!


----------



## herosemblem

You will like it a lot and it will be smaller than you anticipate.



d4n1 said:


> I'm waiting for EA4w, and I can not wait ...
> I have looking forward to it.
> I think I love it!


----------



## GordoJones88

You will like it a lot and it will be chunkier than you anticipate.


----------



## Andrey17

I bought one. It's a small light. Smaller than I thought it would be. I've had it for a month, no problems other than the weak lanyard, and the lowest mode isn't low enough(65 lumens). I'd like to see 15 lumens at maximum. Otherwise it's awesome, and very bright for its size.


----------



## Nytern

Hello, guys!


I must say, I find this thread very enlightning.. I ordered an EA4W last week and have now received an email with an offer to get the EA4 instead. There's no EA4W available at this time it seems.. So.. I've watched the beamshots to compare, but most of the pictures seems to have an incorrect white-balance..

The standard EA4, what's the colortemperature really like? Blue like on most pics or white?

The EA4W, on some beamshots it actually looks warm white.. Any opinions? Should I just get the EA4 or is the EA4W worth a couple of weeks of suspense?


----------



## FoxyRick

Sorry I can't take photos for you, and I only have the EA4W at the moment, hoping to receive an EA4 for comparison any day now...

I can tell you what I observed over the last few nights testing though, with the EA4W, LD41 (standard XM-L U2, cool white) and Eagletac SX25A6 in both cool and neutral white. I had them out in the snow (apart from the SX25A6 NW, because most of the snow had gone when I got it)

The LD41 I guess will be about similar to the cool EA4. It certainly made the snow look cold! Pretty and sparkly, but glacier cold! Browns and greens were a little washed out.

The EA4W gave more realistic-looking greens and browns, and made the snow look almost warm and inviting. With my eyes (and they are all I have access to), I could not say what shade the snow looked as such, I guess it had a hint of yellow to warm it up but it wasn't obviously yellow. Just not the icy cold, almost glacier blue tone that the cool whites gave it. Perhaps like snow in mid-day sunlight...

The SX25A6 'cool' white made the snow look, well, 'snow' white. Not blue, not warm, but pure white. Even my wife who was sat watching from the window commented on that when I went back inside. I really liked the beam from the SX25A6, even though it still didn't show up green/brown as well as the EA4W. I think it made a good reference on the snow to compare the others to.

From that reference, I would say that the EA4W I have is a reasonable neutral, perhaps just on the warm side but not excessively so.

For me, given that I wander around the hills and woods at night, the EA4W would likely trump the EA4 for lighting up trees etc. Like I said though, I'm only guessing that the EA4 will be similar to the LD41 that I have.


----------



## markr6

Personally I would wait for the EA4W. I was really surprised when I turned mine on for the first time. I immediately thought "how can the cool white be any cooler??" The EA4W is nowhere near warm, not even a hint in my opinion. If you told me it was a cool white, I wouldn't second guess it. I don't trust any photos online because it's just so hard to capture what you're actually seeing, plus monitor calibration, etc.


----------



## grepeyre

I like walking around the yard with the EA4 already set on the lowest setting. When I need it (the moon disappears), with the half press it's there with the right amount of light and I just have to double 'fully' click it, not too fast though, to get the vrooom turbo mode when I check something out. That's basically all I need from it... The UI is great once you get used to it.

It was also near me while watching 'The Ring' in complete darkness... very comforting


----------



## Verndog

grepeyre said:


> ... double 'fully' click it, not too fast though, to get the vrooom turbo mode...



Interesting...didn't know you could force turbo with a double full click...I've just used the 1/2 press and hold for turbo. I'll need to try that tonight.


----------



## Kingfisher

uzimy said:


> Well, this is another "not so cool" about EA4.



At 60c+ I don't think this is an issue really, but you can't please everybody...


----------



## RBH

The pictures I put on here are close to correct on all of the monitors I viewed them on. The Galaxy Tab 2 I saw them on was very close. 



Nytern said:


> Hello, guys!
> 
> 
> I must say, I find this thread very enlightning.. I ordered an EA4W last week and have now received an email with an offer to get the EA4 instead. There's no EA4W available at this time it seems.. So.. I've watched the beamshots to compare, but most of the pictures seems to have an incorrect white-balance..
> 
> The standard EA4, what's the colortemperature really like? Blue like on most pics or white?
> 
> The EA4W, on some beamshots it actually looks warm white.. Any opinions? Should I just get the EA4 or is the EA4W worth a couple of weeks of suspense?


----------



## JeffN

Verndog said:


> Interesting...didn't know you could force turbo with a double full click...I've just used the 1/2 press and hold for turbo. I'll need to try that tonight.



It's not so much a double full click as two separate full clicks. That's normal operation (from on) -- the first one turns the light off, the second one turns it on in turbo... 

A double full click (from on) puts it in strobe.


----------



## Verndog

JeffN said:


> It's not so much a double full click as two separate full clicks. That's normal operation (from on) -- the first one turns the light off, the second one turns it on in turbo...
> 
> A double full click (from on) puts it in strobe.



Thank you, I realized after posting he's just turning it off then back on. Problem with that is if you want to go back to low or mid you need to do it again. I like the half press and hold better for my use.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Keep in mind, you can go straight to turbo (assuming it is not locked out) from off just by pressing fully..


----------



## FoxyRick

Nytern said:


> The EA4W, on some beamshots it actually looks warm white.. Any opinions? Should I just get the EA4 or is the EA4W worth a couple of weeks of suspense?



In case you are still trying to decide, having now been able to compare the EA4 and EA4W side by side, _*definitely wait for the EA4W if you care about colour!*_


----------



## Badbeams3

FoxyRick said:


> In case you are still trying to decide, having now been able to compare the EA4 and EA4W side by side, _*definitely wait for the EA4W if you care about colour!*_



Is the NW much dimmer than the CW?


----------



## FoxyRick

I could not tell any difference in brightness in a quick indoor test, although with the difference in tint I find it had to tell without getting outside. The difference in colour was significant enough that I would not bother about it even if I could tell slight difference. I've already sold and packed up the EA4!


----------



## Divine_Madcat

So, as much as I love my light, I will cave and admit that the lockout is useless. Twice in as many days of EDC I have found it on and warming my hip.. thankfully I haven't had to use it otherwise. I would love for nitecore to make the light do as the manual says it does, as 3 button presses are much more unlikely to happen, as opposed to one long press. 

I still love it, but do have to watch out now..


----------



## crazyk4952

Divine_Madcat said:


> So, as much as I love my light, I will cave and admit that the lockout is useless. Twice in as many days of EDC I have found it on and warming my hip..



This is exactly what I was afraid of. With such a great light, its functionality is severely limited by the potential for accidental activation. I'm going to wait until version 2!


----------



## Verndog

If you want to EDC this light you'll need to make damn sure the switch is 90 degs. to your belt so as not to activate it. I personally do not consider it an EDC light. It fits well loose jacket or vest pocket and the few times I've carried that way it's never come on. It's convenient and friendly for actual use, but this is the one drawback. For any carry forward elect. switch light I much prefer the 1/4 turn head 100% lockout myself. The EC25 has that.


----------



## crazyk4952

Verndog said:


> If you want to EDC this light you'll need to make damn sure the switch is 90 degs. to your belt so as not to activate it. I personally do not consider it an EDC light. It fits well loose jacket or vest pocket and the few times I've carried that way it's never come on. It's convenient and friendly for actual use, but this is the one drawback. For any carry forward elect. switch light I much prefer the 1/4 turn head 100% lockout myself. The EC25 has that.



I was planning on carrying it in the pocket of a scottevest, but I still think I would get accidental activations.


----------



## was_jlh

i loathe the holster that it ships with, too big and bulky. i tried several other holsters but the light would get accidentally turned on in each. i finally butchered an olight m20 holster, add two large rubber bands, and i've been using that. it doesnt look great, but i can carry it on my belt without it being turned on accidentally. when i place it in the holster, the button is positioned where it cannot contact anything, then the rubber bands keep it in that position. 

i would love to find a holster which works with it.


----------



## GordoJones88

Is that a Nitecore EA4 in your pocket, or are you just happy to see me.


----------



## Kingfisher

crazyk4952 said:


> I was planning on carrying it in the pocket of a scottevest, but I still think I would get accidental activations.



If it is switched off just normally it can come on accidentally, but in proper lock out [mine anyway] does not come on accidentally.


----------



## bthrel

Kingfisher said:


> If it is switched off just normally it can come on accidentally, but in proper lock out [mine anyway] does not come on accidentally.



Thats been my experience as well so far, carried in back pants pocket, front pants pocket, and coat pockets. Have even tried to make it happen from lockout and cant seem to. Not to say it cant and hasn't happened to others.

Cheers

Brian


----------



## FoxyRick

I don't know if sensitivity of the buttons on these varies, but mine only takes a gentle press to turn on. I think it could easily switch on, even from so-called lock-out, if kept anywhere the button could be touched. 

I've tried unscrewing the tailcap but it almost has to be falling of before the power is cut, then the cells rattle.

When I get around to it I'm going to cut an aluminium guard, like a thick washer filed on one side to fit the body profile, and glue it to the body. I've just not got into the attic yet to get a suitable piece of aluminium.


----------



## Kingfisher

FoxyRick said:


> When I get around to it I'm going to cut an aluminium guard, like a thick washer filed on one side to fit the body profile, and glue it to the body. I've just not got into the attic yet to get a suitable piece of aluminium.



That sounds like a good idea - as my only (little) gripe with this "Light Of The Year" is locating the switch right out the pocket, I sometime find myself fumbling to find it. The washer idea would solve that one. Let me know how it goes, pref with pics (please)


----------



## magpullin

A latecomer to this party, but I could not hold out any longer and got me one .
I have been following this thread and looking for a new light, but had a few others in mind too.
With the big Illumination Supply discount I had to pull the trigger on this little powerhouse.
Can't wait.....


----------



## Verndog

Kingfisher said:


> That sounds like a good idea - as my only (little) gripe with this "Light Of The Year" is locating the switch right out the pocket, I sometime find myself fumbling to find it. The washer idea would solve that one. Let me know how it goes, pref with pics (please)



No doubt this is one drawback from me carrying this away from the home / property more.

This safety washer idea is a good one IMO, and I could easily CNC machine a few hundred of these for prob. about $3.00 each if people are interested. I'd prob. put 4 small little bosses that stick into the slots to prevent movement and coming off. Here is a quick cad cam solid model of what I'm thinking.


----------



## was_jlh

I'd happily buy one Verndog.


----------



## ArmoredFiend

Still contemplating whether i should get this EA4 since i already own a TK40. Though no doubt the size of EA4 is truly..convinient compared to TK40's.

Anyone here who owns a TK40/41/45 and yet still proceed to get this EA4? Mind sharing your thoughts? Thx1


----------



## Beamhead

I'd buy a couple Verndog.


----------



## Verndog

Beamhead said:


> I'd buy a couple Verndog.



Ya, something tells me that a cheap solution would sell itself. As I look closed and measure that small button size, I have a bit of a concern that the thumb tip may have an issue making what is now an easy activation. One thing someone might try as an easy test. Find a thick rubber band to fit over and cut a hole into it around button and see if that works or is difficult to activate. May look around at the hardware store this weekend and see if I can find something like that to try before I go a full day shop time on this.


----------



## roadkill1109

Finally got mine, would four of these fry the light? It only says "Y" in the manual, and the recommended are primaries and rechargeables (which are 1.5v and 1.2v respectively) so will the Energizer Lithium work? Anybody notice any output differences with the higher voltage lithium cells?


----------



## FoxyRick

Verndog said:


> No doubt this is one drawback from me carrying this away from the home / property more.
> 
> This safety washer idea is a good one IMO, and I could easily CNC machine a few hundred of these for prob. about $3.00 each if people are interested. I'd prob. put 4 small little bosses that stick into the slots to prevent movement and coming off. Here is a quick cad cam solid model of what I'm thinking.



That's pretty much exactly what I was envisaging, except a lot smoother and better!

I would be very interested on buying one - it will no doubt be better than what I would make with tin-snips and a file.


----------



## JimiJam

Edit: Looks like link has had the same issue as me !!!
=======

Hi everyone, I recently purchased this EA4 and was initially very happy with it. But..
I left it in my car in the glovebox for a couple of days, then went to grab it tonight to go out for a walk...

(Gallery):









The button appears to have warped in the heat(!), expanded outwards, then cooled down into its current state  There's some piece of plastic (button?) underneath that rubber button that has come loose and is rattling around in there also, preventing proper operation of the light.

I live in Australia and it's common to get 45degree celcius days during summer (probably 60deg in a car). Is this thing not built to survive such temperatures?? Or did I just get unlucky? Just going to contact the store I bought it from and/or nitecore to ask for warranty, but thought I should bring it up here as a warning/query.

Sad :/


----------



## BongC36

I have two TK41s and an EA4. They are both great lights but the EA4 is much more handy and I find the UI to be easier than the 2-button approach of the TK41. Both are equally powerful, the hot spot of the TK41 is more defined while that of the EA4 is more diffuse


Your image is too large and has been replaced with a link. Please resize and repost.
See Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels. - Thanks Norm

Mod: Sorry for the large image


----------



## mikekoz

Verndog said:


> No doubt this is one drawback from me carrying this away from the home / property more.
> 
> This safety washer idea is a good one IMO, and I could easily CNC machine a few hundred of these for prob. about $3.00 each if people are interested. I'd prob. put 4 small little bosses that stick into the slots to prevent movement and coming off. Here is a quick cad cam solid model of what I'm thinking.



How about a small rubber washer glued over the switch? A black one would even look decent and would involve less "finageling!" :wave:


----------



## mikekoz

roadkill1109 said:


> Finally got mine, would four of these fry the light? It only says "Y" in the manual, and the recommended are primaries and rechargeables (which are 1.5v and 1.2v respectively) so will the Energizer Lithium work? Anybody notice any output differences with the higher voltage lithium cells?






I put four of those in one of mine and it worked fine, but I did not notice any difference in brightness. Oddly enough, I tried 4 rechargeable NIZN cells in it, which are just over 1.8v from the charger, and the light would not power on at all. It was like it had some sort of protection built in from overloading!


----------



## roadkill1109

mikekoz said:


> I put four of those in one of mine and it worked fine, but I did not notice any difference in brightness. Oddly enough, I tried 4 rechargeable NIZN cells in it, which are just over 1.8v from the charger, and the light would not power on at all. It was like it had some sort of protection built in from overloading!



Kudos to Nitecore then!  Kinda risky gambling with that higher voltage, if there wasnt that protection, you might have ended up with a dead flashlight. hehehe


----------



## UMDTERPS

JimiJam said:


> Edit: Looks like link has had the same issue as me !!!
> =======
> 
> Hi everyone, I recently purchased this EA4 and was initially very happy with it. But..
> I left it in my car in the glovebox for a couple of days, then went to grab it tonight to go out for a walk...
> 
> (Gallery):
> 
> 
> 
> The button appears to have warped in the heat(!), expanded outwards, then cooled down into its current state  There's some piece of plastic (button?) underneath that rubber button that has come loose and is rattling around in there also, preventing proper operation of the light.
> 
> I live in Australia and it's common to get 45degree celcius days during summer (probably 60deg in a car). Is this thing not built to survive such temperatures?? Or did I just get unlucky? Just going to contact the store I bought it from and/or nitecore to ask for warranty, but thought I should bring it up here as a warning/query.
> 
> Sad :/



ugh, I was hoping to put this light in my car...I live in Maryland here in the states and during the summer (or at least last summer) we hit 101F-105F several times, this is not good news....


----------



## Verndog

UMDTERPS said:


> ugh, I was hoping to put this light in my car...I live in Maryland here in the states and during the summer (or at least last summer) we hit 101F-105F several times, this is not good news....



I wonder if you stored it in a condom if it would prevent this pregnancy issue?? :huh:


----------



## UMDTERPS

Verndog said:


> I wonder if you stored it in a condom if it would prevent this pregnancy issue?? :huh:



:naughty:


----------



## roadkill1109

Haha! Well look on the plus side: You wont have to fumble for the switch in the dark! hahaha  Chink in the EA4's design... dont leave it out in extreme heat! I wonder if you let the light run really hot, will this "pregnancy" issue also occur? hehehe


----------



## Kingfisher

Did you leave it in the glove compartment next to that box of Viagra?

Wish we could get them kind of 60c temperatures here - it's too cold here for that kind of thing to bother my lights - but if it did get that hot I would not leave it in the car anyway.


----------



## JimiJam

Kingfisher said:


> Wish we could get them kind of 60c temperatures here - it's too cold here for that kind of thing to bother my lights - but if it did get that hot I would not leave it in the car anyway.



Do you get 30deg temps there? According to that RAC report, an ambient temp of 30 is all that's required to get your car's internal temp to 60. I think when mine melted the ambient temp that day would have been around 35 degC - not extreme temps.

My previous cheapo ($10) torch had no probs being stored in the car :/

Anyways the vendor I purchased from is happy to RMA the item. I may hit up nitecore as well and see what they think (as well as find out the acceptable (non-)operating temperature range). Sounds like a design defect to me.


----------



## Verndog

roadkill1109 said:


> Haha! Well look on the plus side: You wont have to fumble for the switch in the dark! hahaha  Chink in the EA4's design... dont leave it out in extreme heat! I wonder if you let the light run really hot, will this "pregnancy" issue also occur? hehehe



Seriously...I wonder if you throw it into the freezer for an hour or 2 if shrinkage would possibly take over and return to normal size??


----------



## Beamhead

Scroll down to see a light with a serious buldge. 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...leted-graphs&p=1289870&viewfull=1#post1289870


----------



## kralyevski

Verndog said:


> I wonder if you stored it in a condom if it would prevent this pregnancy issue?? :huh:


----------



## SilverCaper

JimiJam said:


> I may hit up nitecore as well and see what they think (as well as find out the acceptable (non-)operating temperature range). Sounds like a design defect to me.



Did you talk with Nitecore regarding this issue? I bought two of the EA4s as Christmas gifts and the one purchased for my father has developed the bulging button phenomenon. My vender said that I could RMA the light back to them and that they would sent it off to Nitecore for warranty repair.

Although I live in South Florida in the US, I do not think this issue is caused by being stored in a car, as my father's light is kept in an air conditioned office by day and only used outdoors by night for no more than a few minutes before being returned to the air conditioned office. The light has never seen the inside of a car. I hope Nitecore resolves this issue as what would be stopping it from happening again after sending it in for repair?


----------



## Verndog

SilverCaper said:


> ... The light has never seen the inside of a car. I hope Nitecore resolves this issue as what would be stopping it from happening again?



Interesting info...clearly heat is one condition that "can" cause this...but something else possibly too. The membrane material is a bit odd, and I've seen different types of rubber react to things like hand lotion before...so who knows. Looks like the material may not be real stable...period.


----------



## SilverCaper

SilverCaper said:


> Did you talk with Nitecore regarding this issue? I bought two of the EA4s as Christmas gifts and the one purchased for my father has developed the bulging button phenomenon. My vendor said that I could RMA the light back to them and that they would sent it off to Nitecore for warranty repair.



Okay, I just got off the phone with my vendor GG to clarify the warranty repair issue and was told that they have to send the light back to China for repair and that it will take one to two months to get the light back. You would think that since Nitecore has an 18 month free replacement warranty against defects that this could very well be resolved by the vendor sending the customer a new light upon receipt of the defective one instead of making the customer wait up to a couple of months for a replacement. Nitecore's Terms of Service states:

Warranty commitments
1. 18 months free replacement: Within 18 months of purchase NITECORE will, though it’s authorized agents, resellers and retailers, replace any product that fails to operate as a result of a manufacturing defect. The product will be replaced with the same model or one of equal or better performance in the unlikely event it has been discontinued.

2. Limited Lifetime Warranty: After 18 months, NITECORE provides a further 120 months (10 years) of free labour on repair should a NITECORE product cease to function through normal use. Under the LLW the customer is responsible for the cost of freight to and from the authorized repair agent (if applicable) and the cost of any replacement parts should they be required.


----------



## dougie

What's the point of having a warranty which relies on shipping something back to China? If the retailer sells one of Nitecores products surely it is the retailers responsibility to be able to service something under the terms of the Nitecore warranty? I'd try speaking (nicely) to the retailer who sold you the light and ask them why they can't either fix it or exchange it under warranty? If they decline I'd tell them that I'd never buy something from them again and would be asking Nitecore to think again about having them as a retailer. YMMV


----------



## FoxyRick

I wonder if heat from running the flashlight for a while could cause this? I'm almost tempted to leave mine on full until the cells run down and see what happens... almost...


----------



## Bumble

ive just had a faulty nitecore delivered to me from flashaholics.co.uk (i live in the uk as well) i made a phone call telling them it was DOA... they told me to send it back to them and they would re-imburse the postage fees i made, then they will send me a replacement flashlight. 2 days later and ive recieved a replacement flashlight and postage fees . great service


----------



## Bumble

FoxyRick said:


> I wonder if heat from running the flashlight for a while could cause this? I'm almost tempted to leave mine on full until the cells run down and see what happens... almost...



ive ran my ea4 on high on fully charged eneloop xx until the light would only run on its lowest mode..it was hot ! no bulging switch though... ?

this was a constant run (not timed)


----------



## Verndog

SilverCaper said:


> Okay, I just got off the phone with my vendor GG to clarify the warranty repair issue and was told that they have to send the light back to China for repair and that it will take one to two months to get the light back.



That is totally the vendor screwing you there IMO. Don't take no for an answer!! State the warranty, and show him the pic and stand firm it is a clear and obvious manufacturer defect..You have rights, and waiting 2 months is not an option.


----------



## bthrel

Verndog said:


> That is totally the vendor screwing you there IMO. Don't take no for an answer!! State the warranty, and show him the pic and stand firm it is a clear and obvious manufacturer defect..You have rights, and waiting 2 months is not an option.



Hope this is resolved in a good way else I will have to rethink my future purchases from said vendor.. perhaps a jeer is in order. 

On the other hand if its a true defect I might want it sent to the factory so I get a light with more chances of the flaw being resolved vs a light off the shelf that this may happen to again.... Just a thought


----------



## markr6

One to two months?!?! Man, for about $60 I would chuck the thing at the ground, swear for several minutes then buy something else out of sheer aggravation.


----------



## Verndog

bthrel said:


> ...On the other hand if its a true defect I might want it sent to the factory so I get a light with more chances of the flaw being resolved vs a light off the shelf that this may happen to again.... Just a thought



There is no telling really. If you look at early pics of this light, there was a different material type over the switch that was changed. Also notice the light does not shine through real well? Looks to me like a quick decision was made to change the material, and possibly it's something newer and the Chinese haven't gotten down how to copy (read steal the recipe) for this material real well yet. Could be a bad batch, could be a certain chemical or hand lotion that causes it and it goes on for a year before they figure it out...who knows. I'll just try to keep chemicals and excessive heat away and hope for the best.


----------



## bthrel

Verndog said:


> There is no telling really. If you look at early pics of this light, there was a different material type over the switch that was changed. Also notice the light does not shine through real well? Looks to me like a quick decision was made to change the material, and possibly it's something newer and the Chinese haven't gotten down how to copy (read steal the recipe) for this material real well yet. Could be a bad batch, could be a certain chemical or hand lotion that causes it and it goes on for a year before they figure it out...who knows. I'll just try to keep chemicals and excessive heat away and hope for the best.



Agreed, lets hope the EA8 does not suffer from the same maladies.


----------



## SilverCaper

dougie said:


> What's the point of having a warranty which relies on shipping something back to China? If the retailer sells one of Nitecores products surely it is the retailers responsibility to be able to service something under the terms of the Nitecore warranty? I'd try speaking (nicely) to the retailer who sold you the light and ask them why they can't either fix it or exchange it under warranty? If they decline I'd tell them that I'd never buy something from them again and would be asking Nitecore to think again about having them as a retailer. YMMV



I already spoke with the vendor Going Gear and read to them Nitecore's Warranty Terms of Service to no avail. I can legally speaking, although I am not an attorney, see wiggle room in Nitecore's statement, "Within 18 months of purchase NITECORE will, though (should read through) it’s authorized agents, resellers and retailers, replace any product that fails to operate as a result of a manufacturing defect." I could interpret the statement to mean that Nitecore's authorized agents, resellers and retailers will replace the product immediately upon inspection of the defect by the vendor or after the vendor sends it back to Nitecore to make its determination of the defect, but I'm leaning towards the former.


----------



## Hamilton Felix

Just got my EA4W and one of two sets of Eneloops I ordered. Yep, it's a bright light. My idea of a "searchlight" would be a tighter beam. I picked up an "old tech" LSI spotlight with SLA battery that stays near one of our doors. Looking across the back yard, it throws a spot. The EA4 lights up the entire back gate. But no complaints for the price. That's a lot of light, so I guess we can afford lots of spill. 

That power indicator is DIM. I was looking at the light in daylight and really had trouble finding it. 

But so far, I'm happy with the light. Time will tell, of course. The only brand that has never failed me (except to "walk away") is Sure Fire.

I am glad I ordered my EA4W in neutral white. My human evolved eyes do not like blue light.


----------



## SilverCaper

Bumble said:


> ive just had a faulty nitecore delivered to me from flashaholics.co.uk (i live in the uk as well) i made a phone call telling them it was DOA... they told me to send it back to them and they would re-imburse the postage fees i made, then they will send me a replacement flashlight. 2 days later and ive recieved a replacement flashlight and postage fees . great service



Going Gear did state that this was beyond their 30 day return policy, so if it was DOA they would have exchanged it. Although, it's not like I'm returning it because I don't want the light, it's being returned due to it being defective.


----------



## Gavin S.

Beamhead said:


> Scroll down to see a light with a serious buldge.
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...leted-graphs&p=1289870&viewfull=1#post1289870






Or maybe it's just really happy to see somebody.


----------



## SilverCaper

Verndog said:


> That is totally the vendor screwing you there IMO. Don't take no for an answer!! State the warranty, and show him the pic and stand firm it is a clear and obvious manufacturer defect..You have rights, and waiting 2 months is not an option.



I agree. It would be nice if Going Gear would step up to the plate and resolve this issue. It would just be a simple exchange.


----------



## SilverCaper

bthrel said:


> Hope this is resolved in a good way else I will have to rethink my future purchases from said vendor.. perhaps a jeer is in order.



Well, voting with our dollars is always a good way to get a vendor's attention.


----------



## Verndog

SilverCaper said:


> ...I already spoke with the vendor Going Gear and read to them Nitecore's Warranty Terms of Service to no avail. I can legally speaking, although I am not an attorney, see wiggle room in Nitecore's statement...



Problem with that interpretation is if this is how it really works then their intent is to make it "sound like" you'll get a free replacement when really it is pure BS. That is even worse yet IMO.


----------



## SilverCaper

Verndog said:


> Problem with that interpretation is if this is how it really works then their intent is to make it "sound like" you'll get a free replacement when really it is pure BS. That is even worse yet IMO.



I hear you. Wasn't there someone from Nitecore that posted on this thread? It would be nice if they would chime in and clarify the company's official position on their 18 month free replacement policy.


----------



## GordoJones88

Is that bulge in your pocket from a Nitecore EA4 button or are you just happy to see me . . .


----------



## UMDTERPS

ugh, this is disappointing more people are having the same problem and now the vendors/manufactures may be giving people hard time. Looks like I may have to put my 2 purchases of this light on hold, unless we get a response back from Nitecore.


----------



## roadkill1109

they should probably just send out a spare rubber switch. it looks like it was just jammed in there. so far i havent had any problems with mine. however with the reports that the light dies or the lens cracks when dropped, now that is a serious concern. just have to be careful not to rough it up then.


----------



## mikekoz

dougie said:


> What's the point of having a warranty which relies on shipping something back to China? If the retailer sells one of Nitecores products surely it is the retailers responsibility to be able to service something under the terms of the Nitecore warranty? I'd try speaking (nicely) to the retailer who sold you the light and ask them why they can't either fix it or exchange it under warranty? If they decline I'd tell them that I'd never buy something from them again and would be asking Nitecore to think again about having them as a retailer. YMMV



Even though it stinks that Nitecore has no warranty repair locations here in the US, your retailer is not responsible for the warranty on your light, the manufacturer is. Your retailer has a certain amount of time that they will take back a defective light, which will vary from one to another, but that is not the same as the manufacturers warranty. Nitecore's warranty explanation in the paperwork is also a bit confusing. I am well aware of it since I own three EA4's! I am not trying to make anybody angry, but your seller did not make the light. If you bought a light from a retailer, say one with a lifetime warranty, would you expect the retailer to replace it 10 years from now if it failed? Nitecore, in this case, is responsible for replacing or repairing the light beyond the retailers return policy. If this happened to one of mine, I think I would see if Nitecore could send me a replacement cover for the switch and I would try to replace it myself. Like another person who chimed in about this issue, I would not bother sending it to China. Just my 2 cents!


----------



## FoxyRick

It depends on the country in which the item was purchased*.* In the UK, by law the retailer is responsible for honouring the warranty themselves*, for however long that warranty is advertised as. That does no stop them _trying _to disclaim responsibility and say, "send it to the manufacture, it's nothing to do with us' which is illegal (in the UK). In fact, under European law, electrical goods have to be good for _five years_, no matter what the warranty says. Try enforcing that one though.

In any case, after a reasonable period of time (like 28 days) even here there is no legal requirement for the retailer to simply replace the item immediately themselves, unless the warranty states that. They are allowed a reasonable period of time (which is debatable) in which to repair or replace the item. Sending it back to the manufacturer would likely be considered reasonable.

How the retailer chooses to act on all of this is down to them. Decent ones would likely replace the item themselves and deal with their supplier independently. Many however will try to get out of doing anything that might cost them even though _it is their responsibility_.

As I say, this is in the UK. We have many laws to supposedly protect us as consumers, most of which are toothless by design because we can rarely enforce them.

Anyway, back to the topic, at least a little bit:

If there are many more instances of the EA4's erect nipple problem, perhaps Nitecore should be arranging a recall?


*Edit for a small clarification: It's the country in which the seller is based that is likely more important, rather than where the purchaser is based. I can't expect, for instance, a USA-based seller to adhere to UK laws just because I buy something from them, unless they actually operate as a UK business as well.


----------



## mikekoz

FoxyRick said:


> It depends on the country in which the item was purchased.* In the UK, by law the retailer is responsible for honouring the warranty themselves*, for however long that warranty is advertised as. That does no stop them _trying _to disclaim responsibility and say, "send it to the manufacture, it's nothing to do with us' which is illegal (in the UK). In fact, under European law, electrical goods have to be good for _five years_, no matter what the warranty says. Try enforcing that one though.
> 
> In any case, after a reasonable period of time (like 28 days) even here there is no legal requirement for the retailer to simply replace the item immediately themselves, unless the warranty states that. They are allowed a reasonable period of time (which is debatable) in which to repair or replace the item. Sending it back to the manufacturer would likely be considered reasonable.
> 
> How the retailer chooses to act on all of this is down to them. Decent ones would likely replace the item themselves and deal with their supplier independently. Many however will try to get out of doing anything that might cost them even though _it is their responsibility_.
> 
> As I say, this is in the UK. We have many laws to supposedly protect us as consumers, most of which are toothless by design because we can rarely enforce them.
> 
> Anyway, back to the topic, at least a little bit:
> 
> If there are many more instances of the EA4's erect nipple problem, perhaps Nitecore should be arranging a recall?





Interesting information! Thanks!! Love the "erect nipple" comment! LOL. I hope mine do not do that....my EA4's that is!!!


----------



## FoxyRick

I hope mine doesn't either.

Just to add to the above (for UK folks at least):

There is also the 'fit for purpose' legal requirement. That is, an item must be fit for the purpose for which it was sold. If it (or a component part of it) be able to be shown as unfit for purpose either through design flaw or a pre-existing fault, then the retailer is required to repair/replace it no matter how long ago the item was sold. Again though, proving and enforcing that is the tricky part.


----------



## Anonnn

I unpacked my new EA4 from its box last night. The first experience we had together involved standing about 75 feet from a dumpster while blasting 860 AA-powered lumens in its direction. Immediately I heard the sound of a spooked animal scampering from panic before I saw a scared feral cat jump out and run away.


----------



## shelm

JimiJam said:


> Edit: Looks like link has had the same issue as me !!!
> =======
> 
> Hi everyone, I recently purchased this EA4 and was initially very happy with it. But..
> I left it in my car in the glovebox for a couple of days, then went to grab it tonight to go out for a walk...
> 
> (Gallery):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The button appears to have warped in the heat(!), expanded outwards, then cooled down into its current state  There's some piece of plastic (button?) underneath that rubber button that has come loose and is rattling around in there also, preventing proper operation of the light.
> 
> I live in Australia and it's common to get 45degree celcius days during summer (probably 60deg in a car). Is this thing not built to survive such temperatures?? Or did I just get unlucky? Just going to contact the store I bought it from and/or nitecore to ask for warranty, but thought I should bring it up here as a warning/query.
> 
> Sad :/




first time i am seeing this. doesnt look too bad.


----------



## Verndog

Anonnn said:


> I unpacked my new EA4 from its box last night. The first experience we had together involved standing about 75 feet from a dumpster while blasting 860 AA-powered lumens in its direction. Immediately I heard the sound of a spooked animal scampering from panic before I saw a scared feral cat jump out and run away.



LOL, as far as he was concerned you were an alien! What the heck is a feral cat?? We don't have those here in the NW.


----------



## bthrel

Verndog said:


> LOL, as far as he was concerned you were an alien! What the heck is a feral cat?? We don't have those here in the NW.



you got em up there in WA, there everywhere in the US "A *feral cat is a descendant of a domestic cat that has returned to the wild. It is distinguished from a stray cat, which is a pet cat that has been lost or abandoned, while feral cats are born in the wild. The offspring of a stray cat can be considered feral if born in the wild"
*They are a huge threat the the bird population as the like their domestic counterparts are very skilled hunters...

back on topic, If I see any around here I will use my EA4 to spotlight them and ... well ... POW


----------



## xevious

Damned... I was going to buy this light, looks like it has everything I need in a 4AA form factor. But this switch cover problem is not cool. Think I'm going to wait for Nitecore to update this model.


----------



## READYSETGO

xevious said:


> Damned... I was going to buy this light, looks like it has everything I need in a 4AA form factor. But this switch cover problem is not cool. Think I'm going to wait for Nitecore to update this model.




Go ahead and buy - its a great light at a great price. And anyway, it's still 3 months or so till summer!


----------



## GordoJones88

xevious said:


> Damned... I was going to buy this light, looks like it has everything I need in a 4AA form factor. But this switch cover problem is not cool. Think I'm going to wait for Nitecore to update this model.



You should definitely buy the EA4. Just be safe and wear a glove when you turn it on.


----------



## Verndog

xevious said:


> Damned... I was going to buy this light, looks like it has everything I need in a 4AA form factor. But this switch cover problem is not cool. Think I'm going to wait for Nitecore to update this model.



There are 1000's of these lights out there and from what I've seen 3 reported cases of switch cover issues. 2 of those were in temps I've never seen in my area, the 3rd...who known what possible chemical could cause a reaction. Dont let a couple pics obscure your vision of owning an awesome light..


----------



## READYSETGO

Verndog said:


> There are 1000's of these lights out there and from what I've seen 3 reported cases of switch cover issues. 2 of those were in temps I've never seen in my area, the 3rd...who known what possible chemical could cause a reaction. Dont let a couple pics obscure your vision of owning an awesome light..



Listen to Verndog - he speaks with straight keyboard / tongue!


----------



## dc38

Perhaps his keyboard is "ergonomically designed" and therefore curved... Either way, tis the truth! It's a great light!


----------



## xevious

Yeah, but I was planning to keep this light stashed in my car, during the summer. I don't want to have to wait that long to then deal with this problem.

There's also the matter of stand-by drain. 22 days isn't very long... I guess you could always go to lockout though.


----------



## RBH

Unless I've missed something, I lock mine out by holding the switch down with the light on until it blinks and turns off. 



xevious said:


> Yeah, but I was planning to keep this light stashed in my car, during the summer. I don't want to have to wait that long to then deal with this problem.
> 
> There's also the matter of stand-by drain. 22 days isn't very long. And to use lockout, you have to unscrew the tail cap quite a distance. It then begs to question how well sealed it is from moisture/dust.


----------



## xevious

^ Thanks, I see what happened now. Apparently if you wanted to lockout by unscrewing the back, it requires more turns than you'd expect with other lights, but that the _proper_ way to do it is by holding the switch down. 


Anyway, I watched SelfBuilt's video again and there's just something about this light that appeals to me, so I ordered one.


----------



## fireonhigh

i just ordered this light a few hours ago, then i joined this forum only to read about the rubber switch,i live in florida so i will get to see how it goes,lol, any how, what model of eneloops should i get,and should i just use the charger that come with them? or the nitecore model,sorry for the noob questions


----------



## magpullin

fireonhigh said:


> i just ordered this light a few hours ago, then i joined this forum only to read about the rubber switch,i live in florida so i will get to see how it goes,lol, any how, what model of eneloops should i get,and should i just use the charger that come with them? or the nitecore model,sorry for the noob questions




The higher priced, longer mAh rated Eneloop (XX) only have a 500 charge life cycle as compared to 1500 for the lower mAh. So what is more important to you, runtime or longer life, will decide if you want to spend more on them.

This charger was recommended to me.... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/?tag=cpf0b6-20
All the bells and whistles, but I am still using my cheapo duracell charger at this time. HTH....


----------



## moldyoldy

magpullin said:


> The higher priced, longer mAh rated Eneloop (XX) only have a 500 charge life cycle as compared to 1500 for the lower mAh. So what is more important to you, runtime or longer life, will decide if you want to spend more on them.
> 
> This charger was recommended to me.... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/?tag=cpf0b6-20
> All the bells and whistles, but I am still using my cheapo duracell charger at this time. HTH....



I have had 3 of those BC700 chargers. All were good with no real problems. Only one left now due to downsizing for a move. I did have to use some DEOXIT on the rather cheap pushbutton contacts after I let it sit for a couple months. 

I had the BC900 before the BC700 and also had no problems, but then I very rarely charged 4 cells @ 1A or above in the charger after I realized that the overtemp protection kicked in often and cut off the charge for a while.


----------



## InquisitiveInquirer

Has anyone realized how widely read and responded to this thread is? It's over 100K views and close to 1K responses. Wowzers. Nitecore must be reveling in its success.

I wondering what company has garnered the most interest in the past 2012? Nitecore you guys think?


----------



## roadkill1109

moldyoldy said:


> I have had 3 of those BC700 chargers. All were good with no real problems. Only one left now due to downsizing for a move. I did have to use some DEOXIT on the rather cheap pushbutton contacts after I let it sit for a couple months.
> 
> I had the BC900 before the BC700 and also had no problems, but then I very rarely charged 4 cells @ 1A or above in the charger after I realized that the overtemp protection kicked in often and cut off the charge for a while.



Thanks for this tip! I have Dexoit Gold lying around the house, might as well put them on the contacts of the charger! getting a bit hard to push some of the buttons.


----------



## roadkill1109

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Has anyone realized how widely read and responded to this thread is? It's over 100K views and close to 1K responses. Wowzers. Nitecore must be reveling in its success.
> 
> I wondering what company has garnered the most interest in the past 2012? Nitecore you guys think?



Yup! Fantastic thread! It even comes up high in the google search!  The EA4 light with all its shortcomings is still a fantastic light! I'm not a fan of AA-Only light yet i got this light because it just really works! Smaller than my 18650 throwers yet throws almost just the same! Runtime's fanstastic, and its obviously current controlled. 

I wouldnt have any doubts to get another one just to collect it. 

I hope they come up with a 2nd version that has a brighter and more durable button.

I might also get the P25 for the love of 18650's.


----------



## Verndog

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> I wondering what company has garnered the most interest in the past 2012? Nitecore you guys think?



Yep...and you guys better keep buying because your light is already obsolete. 

Illumination Supply now has an exclusive 950 lumen version using XM-L2 U2 1C LED!


----------



## Anonnn

InquisitiveInquirer said:


> Has anyone realized how widely read and responded to this thread is? It's over 100K views and close to 1K responses. Wowzers. Nitecore must be reveling in its success.
> 
> I wondering what company has garnered the most interest in the past 2012? Nitecore you guys think?



I will say this: I'm astonished that this is only one of the first attempts to make a super bright AA powered flashlight. How is it possible that all of these companies have remained ignorant for so long of the huge market demand for a product like this? It's 2013 and we just now have the "Pioneer" of bright AA lights?! So yes, I say good job Nitecore for stepping up to the plate on this one. Feel free to revel in your current popularity for making a product that seems to have appeal for so many. I find it interesting that its appeal remains and seems to even defy all of its criticism. Additionally, I find the price point on this light to be quite reasonable when I consider how it is made and what it can do. Good job Nitecore.


----------



## dparr

Verndog said:


> Yep...and you guys better keep buying because your light is already obsolete.
> 
> Illumination Supply now has an exclusive 950 lumen version using XM-L2 U2 1C LED!



90 lumen is hardly worth the effort.


----------



## Verndog

dparr said:


> 90 lumen is hardly worth the effort.



Of course not...doesn't mean nobody will pull the string though.


----------



## mikekoz

Anonnn said:


> I will say this: I'm astonished that this is only one of the first attempts to make a super bright AA powered flashlight. How is it possible that all of these companies have remained ignorant for so long of the huge market demand for a product like this? It's 2013 and we just now have the "Pioneer" of bright AA lights?! So yes, I say good job Nitecore for stepping up to the plate on this one. Feel free to revel in your current popularity for making a product that seems to have appeal for so many. I find it interesting that its appeal remains and seems to even defy all of its criticism. Additionally, I find the price point on this light to be quite reasonable when I consider how it is made and what it can do. Good job Nitecore.




I will agree, even though this trend of ultra bright lights using standard batteries started a year or so ago. I stopped using multi lithium and Li-ion cells a while back, and for a while I was missing a lot as far as brightness and runtime in a light. Then I bought a Fenix TK40 about a year and a half ago (630 lumens), and that started it for me. Fenix now sells several lights that put out a lot of lumens and use standard batteries. Take a look at the TK40,41,45, 70, for example. Sunwayman makes a 600 lumen light that uses 4 AA's and is just a tad bit bigger than the EA4. Even lights at brick and mortar stores have followed this trend. Just take a look at the Coleman CT50 (500 lumens on 6AA's) and the Coast HP550 (1000 lumens on 9 aa's). I love my EA4's!! It is a great time to be a flashaholic!


----------



## Badbeams3

Verndog said:


> Yep...and you guys better keep buying because your light is already obsolete.
> 
> Illumination Supply now has an exclusive 950 lumen version using XM-L2 U2 1C LED!



For those that don`t already have one, and want one, that would be the way to go.


----------



## fireonhigh

magpullin said:


> The higher priced, longer mAh rated Eneloop (XX) only have a 500 charge life cycle as compared to 1500 for the lower mAh. So what is more important to you, runtime or longer life, will decide if you want to spend more on them.
> 
> This charger was recommended to me.... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/?tag=cpf0b6-20
> All the bells and whistles, but I am still using my cheapo duracell charger at this time. HTH....



great thanks for the info


----------



## tcr03

so i just got my ea4 today and i noticed the silver front bezel isnt fully seated. has anyone else had this issue.


----------



## magpullin

tcr03 said:


> so i just got my ea4 today and i noticed the silver front bezel isnt fully seated. has anyone else had this issue.



I have read a few posts of people saying theirs was not fully seated or a little askew. Mine has a little gap too, but not enough to bother me.


----------



## gradio

Oh well, just ordered 4 lights (& accessories) and the EA4 is one of them. We'll see (I hope).


----------



## magpullin

Verndog said:


> Yep...and you guys better keep buying because your light is already obsolete.
> orig
> Illumination Supply now has an exclusive 950 lumen version using XM-L2 U2 1C LED!



Well 90 lumen will be basically imperceptible and you have to pay more for it so I am still happy with the original


----------



## tcr03

magpullin said:


> I have read a few posts of people saying theirs was not fully seated or a little askew. Mine has a little gap too, but not enough to bother me.



well as long as its still sealed i wont worry about it. thanks for the reply


----------



## bthrel

tcr03 said:


> well as long as its still sealed i wont worry about it. thanks for the reply



Mine has a slight gap as well, about 1/2 the width of a business card... doesn't bother me at all.


----------



## GordoJones88

Verndog said:


> Illumination Supply now has an exclusive 950 lumen version using XM-L2 U2 1C LED!



Perhaps that is just a typo. 
Did you call or email to confirm? 
Where do you see "exclusive 950 lumen" at?


----------



## Verndog

GordoJones88 said:


> Perhaps that is just a typo.
> Did you call or email to confirm?
> Where do you see "exclusive 950 lumen" at?



I own 2...not buying more, and no need to call.

https://illuminationsupply.com/nite...4.html?zenid=18085821725306e3c2163503b17f3f0c


----------



## Crazybright

Great, I just got this one delivered today "NitecoreEA4 Pioneer"


----------



## markone

JimiJam said:


> Edit: Looks like link has had the same issue as me !!!
> =======
> 
> Hi everyone, I recently purchased this EA4 and was initially very happy with it. But..
> I left it in my car in the glovebox for a couple of days, then went to grab it tonight to go out for a walk...
> 
> (Gallery):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The button appears to have warped in the heat(!), expanded outwards, then cooled down into its current state  There's some piece of plastic (button?) underneath that rubber button that has come loose and is rattling around in there also, preventing proper operation of the light.
> 
> I live in Australia and it's common to get 45degree celcius days during summer (probably 60deg in a car). Is this thing not built to survive such temperatures?? Or did I just get unlucky? Just going to contact the store I bought it from and/or nitecore to ask for warranty, but thought I should bring it up here as a warning/query.
> 
> Sad :/



IMHO the only thing that can vent inside the flashlight and blow the rubber switch cap in that way is the battery set.

Which kind of battery were in use when the "accident" took place ?

Anyway i think that this is an issue that deserve the right attention by NiteCore, regardless the current small number of cases.


----------



## Verndog

Crazybright said:


> Great, I just got this one delivered today "NitecoreEA4 Pioneer"



No worries...you got an awesome light...enjoy it!!


----------



## jerelect

How would the Nitecore EC25 compair to the EA4 in overall beam pattern and throw?


----------



## Verndog

jerelect said:


> How would the Nitecore EC25 compair to the EA4 in overall beam pattern and throw?



Similar pattern but the EA4 having the larger head and deeper reflector will out throw the EC25. Both have good useable flood also. IIRC the EA4 rates at 283M of throw and the EC25 is 220M.


----------



## fireonhigh

Verndog said:


> I own 2...not buying more, and no need to call.
> 
> https://illuminationsupply.com/nite...4.html?zenid=18085821725306e3c2163503b17f3f0c



how is the switch? is it the same material as on the old model,and are than any rattles and gaps? and how will the 900plus lumens help? will it just make it brighter and decrease run times? i have one coming from goinggear, but i just may decide to send back and get the newer model, i really would like to read your opinions on this.


----------



## Verndog

fireonhigh said:


> how is the switch? is it the same material as on the old model,and are than any rattles and gaps? and how will the 900plus lumens help? will it just make it brighter and decrease run times? i have one coming from goinggear, but i just may decide to send back and get the newer model, i really would like to read your opinions on this.



Sorry...to clarify that, I own 2 of the original 860 lumen just like you bought, and both are great with no rattles or problems. I would not imagine much else has changed other then the LED difference. I also doubt you'll see the difference in brightness from 860 to 950 IMO.


----------



## fireonhigh

Verndog said:


> Sorry...to clarify that, I own 2 of the original 860 lumen just like you bought, and both are great with no rattles or problems. I would not imagine much else has changed other then the LED difference. I also doubt you'll see the difference in brightness from 860 to 950 IMO.



ok, you dont have the new model in possession? maybe they dropped in a new light? please explain to us noobs .. thankyouu/// im hoping we can get more throw from a new led ... im new here take it easy on me ,,lol


----------



## gradio

Have one shipped today. 860lm - oh well. I'll just have to be happy with it - but maybe after a month or 2, tell wife not as happy as I thought I'd be, and must order another. Yeah that's it


----------



## fireonhigh

gradio said:


> Have one shipped today. 860lm - oh well. I'll just have to be happy with it - but maybe after a month or 2, tell wife not as happy as I thought I'd be, and must order another. Yeah that's it


yeah i cant wait, i think im becoming a flashoholic


----------



## GordoJones88

fireonhigh said:


> ok, you dont have the new model in possession? maybe they dropped in a new light? please explain to us noobs .. thankyouu/// im hoping we can get more throw from a new led ... im new here take it easy on me ,,lol



Yes, Nitecore dropped in the new XM-L2 U2 LED emitter into the light. That is 2 bins higher than XM-L U2 emitter, and 1 bin higher than the XM-L2 T6 emitter. It is 10% brighter, with 10% more throw. 

I like how Nitecore placed the XM-L2 logo on the light. Curious though, why would it be an exclusive?


----------



## csshih

GordoJones88 said:


> I like how Nitecore placed the XM-L2 logo on the light. Curious though, why would it be an exclusive?



Because I supplied the LEDs. :wave:

Craig


----------



## HighlanderNorth

csshih said:


> Because I supplied the LEDs. :wave:
> 
> Craig




Thats a great idea!

Can you get them to make me an EA-4 with a Luxeon I? Thats what I want! Just kidding...... 


I plan on buying one of these in a month or so once my business comes out of its annual winter doldrums, and I didnt realize they were already changing the LED's in these to the newest XM-L bins. Will these still be available in a month or so?


----------



## Patriot

csshih said:


> Because I supplied the LEDs. :wave:
> 
> Craig





Nice work Craig! Great to see someone pushing to get the latest bins in these!


----------



## Up All Night

csshih said:


> Because I supplied the LEDs. :wave:
> 
> Craig



Very pragmatic! :thumbsup:


----------



## Bumble

csshih said:


> Because I supplied the LEDs. :wave:
> 
> Craig



a nice "tweek" to an already nice light  many thanks


----------



## JimiJam

markone said:


> IMHO the only thing that can vent inside the flashlight and blow the rubber switch cap in that way is the battery set.
> 
> Which kind of battery were in use when the "accident" took place ?.



Eneloops in there.

I did try the other day leaving the torch in car (40degC that day, so prolly 70+ in car) with the tail-cap off (no batteries) - was hoping the rubber would go soft and sorta.. drop back into place  Actually it didn't help at all.. if anything it felt even firmer (like a full balloon, instead of a partly deflated one).

Also tried chucking it in the freezer (in a ziplock bag)... no dice!

No reply from nitecore (via website). Might try their facebook also.


But yeh.... anyone else game to leave it somewhere warm for a couple hours?


----------



## Gavin S.

Cool! I'm glad I waited to order this light. I have one on the way from illumination supply.


----------



## csshih

Thanks everyone. The bump up in output isn't as big as I'd like, but Calvin notes they seem to have tighter hotspot. I haven't had the time to head back home and take a look/take beamshots.

I very much appreciate the support. Global competition isn't making the outlook of my business look good, especially since the USPS increased international shipping costs.



JimiJam said:


> No reply from nitecore (via website). Might try their facebook also.



Nitecore is currently on vacation due to Chinese New Year - it'd be better to contact your dealer.

Craig


----------



## Verndog

csshih said:


> I very much appreciate the support. Global competition isn't making the outlook of my business look good, especially since the USPS increased international shipping costs.



I hope everyone here keeps this in mind when making purchases. Craig went above and beyond to help me recently with a lost light (delivered to wrong house by PO!) to help me locate it when it wasn't their doing. I've bought 4 lights from them in the last few months and nothing but good things to say about them. 

Thanks again Craig.. and please hang in there!

Kevin


----------



## Verndog

JimiJam said:


> Also tried chucking it in the freezer (in a ziplock bag)... no dice!



Dang...I was hoping that would help. Last thing to try is a double dose of the morning after pill. I suggest you try this before Alien comes flying out of that thing!

Seriously though...does the light still work? It's really hard to imagine the rubber expanding that far without pressure behind it...which would suggest a pin prick (or coat hanger LOL).


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Verndog said:


> Dang...I was hoping that would help. Last thing to try is a double dose of the morning after pill. I suggest you try this before Alien comes flying out of that thing!
> 
> Seriously though...does the light still work? It's really hard to imagine the rubber expanding that far without pressure behind it...which would suggest a pin prick (or coat hanger LOL).


Not that hard to imagine -

The rubber becomes very soft in moderate heat, and the light, being a sealed body has a rise in internal air pressure. Well, the now weak plastics stretches under the 1-2 PSI pressure... and there is your bulge. Like most rubbers, it will keep its shape once cool, and will require replacing after it has been streteched.

Depending on how well sealed the battery compartment is, even leaving the cap off may still allow enough pressure to build to create some bulge. Nitecore needs to know, as they need to change to rubber formulation, to one that is more heat resistant.


----------



## markone

JimiJam said:


> Eneloops in there.
> -snip
> No reply from nitecore (via website). Might try their facebook also.



Also might provide link to this 3ad, just to let them now that the issue is under public care.

Considering that quality AA were in use, i guess it's only matter to wait next summer to see much more faults like your.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

markone said:


> Also might provide link to this 3ad, just to let them now that the issue is under public care.
> 
> Considering that quality AA were in use, i guess it's only matter to wait next summer to see much more faults like your.



Please realize this has nothing to do with the batteries. Warm air in a sealed pressure vessel + soft rubber = balloon .. nothing more than that..


----------



## GordoJones88

I don't think you guys understand.

It is a heat-activated anti-roll device.


----------



## Gavin S.

Maybe flashlight manufacturers should start putting something like the helium escape valves you see on dive watches on their products. It's basically a one way valve to allow expanding gas to escape the watch when resurfacing to keep the crystal from popping out.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Gavin S. said:


> Maybe flashlight manufacturers should start putting something like the helium escape valves you see on dive watches on their products. It's basically a one way valve to allow expanding gas to escape the watch when resurfacing to keep the crystal from popping out.



Well, I don't know about AA lights, but having some sort of burst disk would be a great safety measure for the lithium powered lights... while rare, the batteries can fail (or be abused) and make a flashlight pipebomb...

Sorry to take it off topic..


----------



## Streamer

Can the rubber switch cover be replaced from the outside?


----------



## SilverCaper

Here's a few shots of the button. 







[/URL][/IMG]




[/URL][/IMG]




[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## RBH

post deleted


csshih said:


> Thanks everyone. The bump up in output isn't as big as I'd like, but Calvin notes they seem to have tighter hotspot. I haven't had the time to head back home and take a look/take beamshots.
> 
> I very much appreciate the support. Global competition isn't making the outlook of my business look good, especially since the USPS increased international shipping costs.
> 
> 
> 
> Nitecore is currently on vacation due to Chinese New Year - it'd be better to contact your dealer.
> 
> Craig


----------



## markone

Divine_Madcat said:


> Please realize this has nothing to do with the batteries. Warm air in a sealed pressure vessel + soft rubber = balloon .. nothing more than that..



I'm not able to do the physics math to confirm or deny your statement but i want to trust you.
If the internal warmed up air pressure alone is enough to destroy the switch, there is an additional reason to push NiteCore to take care of this problem.

Even here in north Italy cars cabin temps get over 50-60 degree in summer time.

At least i would ask for spare switch rubber part availability.

Obviously @ nice price ;-)


----------



## SilverCaper

markone said:


> I'm not able to do the physics math to confirm or deny your statement but i want to trust you.
> If the internal warmed up air pressure alone is enough to destroy the switch, there is an additional reason to push NiteCore to take care of this problem.
> 
> Even here in north Italy cars cabin temps get over 50-60 degree in summer time.
> 
> At least i would ask for spare switch rubber part availability.
> 
> Obviously @ nice price ;-)



Remember that this happened to the light that I purchased that is kept in an air conditioned office and is only used for a few minutes in the evening.


----------



## Streamer

so out of the thousands sold...we've only heard of 2-3 incidents? If defective why not more complaints?


----------



## SilverCaper

Streamer said:


> so out of the thousands sold...we've only heard of 2-3 incidents? If defective why not more complaints?



I seriously doubt that everyone that purchased this light is on this forum.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

SilverCaper said:


> Remember that this happened to the light that I purchased that is kept in an air conditioned office and is only used for a few minutes in the evening.



If that was the case, then i must take back at least part of my statement (i based my analysis on people mentioning they left it in the car.). I have no explanation for that happening in a cool environment.. 
Even more so, it needs to go to Nitecore for sure for examination - if there is a faulty batch of rubber, they should know.

Actually, i take that back slightly.. a chemical reaction can cause an expansion like that... do you work in an environment with exotic chemicals? Or even strong alcohols (isopropyl, etc)?


----------



## Verndog

Divine_Madcat said:


> ...Actually, i take that back slightly.. a chemical reaction can cause an expansion like that... do you work in an environment with exotic chemicals? Or even strong alcohols (isopropyl, etc)?



Ya...we went over the chemical thing about a week ago.


----------



## fireonhigh

SilverCaper said:


> Here's a few shots of the button.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]



nice light , i hope it will last 1 year ,it is from china...will be lighting up the night tomorrow night! my first real led,but i wonder why usa or germany can not sell me something better, oh well. no pipe bomb light ,thankgod


----------



## Gavin S.

fireonhigh said:


> nice light , i hope it will last 1 year ,it is from china



Thanks for the input. New around here?


----------



## fireonhigh

Gavin S. said:


> Thanks for the input. New around here?



yes i am,how long 
you been here?''''''''''''''' oh yes 2008,ok great!!! welcome to the led forum,any one know of a usa or germany light? im veryyy interested!! faaaa get about it, or FA Q??
JAJAJAJJAAA


----------



## SilverCaper

Divine_Madcat said:


> If that was the case, then i must take back at least part of my statement (i based my analysis on people mentioning they left it in the car.). I have no explanation for that happening in a cool environment..
> Even more so, it needs to go to Nitecore for sure for examination - if there is a faulty batch of rubber, they should know.
> 
> Actually, i take that back slightly.. a chemical reaction can cause an expansion like that... do you work in an environment with exotic chemicals? Or even strong alcohols (isopropyl, etc)?



Nothing out of the ordinary chemically speaking.


----------



## Streamer

Only time I've seen a rubber switch cover bulge is when I ran down a single AA to completely drain an alkaline cell. Towards the end of AA's life, gases escaped and forced the rubber switch cover up and I had hard time unscrewing tail cap, but when I did the bulge disappeared.. foolish to do but I was foolish at the time :/

Apprarently the EA4's rubber is of different composition?


----------



## Danielsan

damn i orderd the Ea4 and now you can get the XM-L2 Version, i dont even received the light and its already outdatet


----------



## philfranc

Excuse me I am Frenchman.


I am no specialist but I also think that a too big warmth or a chemical reaction of piles or batteries create increase of pressure inside the lamp.


*For landing in this problem I recommend those who will leave the lamp in their car to unscrew the cork of piles légérement to lose the waterproof quality which becomes with the ring.*


So if a surpession had to occur, it shall be able to escape by the screw thread of the cover of piles and save the button of ignition.


Your opinion?


----------



## dougie

I very much doubt that the few lumens difference between the original and the revised model will be noticeable!


----------



## Bumble

dougie said:


> I very much doubt that the few lumens difference between the original and the revised model will be noticeable!



+1 very slight throw/lumen increase... only worry about not having the XM-L2 if you have the eyesight of an owl 

edit.. although saying that.. it is rather a nice tweek to an already nice light.


----------



## philfranc

Excuse me I am Frenchman

I am no specialist but I also think that a too big warmth or a chemical reaction of piles or batteries create increase of pressure inside the lamp.

*For landing in this problem I recommend those who will leave the lamp in their car to unscrew the cork of piles légérement to lose the waterproof quality which becomes with the joint torique.
*
So if a surpession had to occur, it shall be able to escape by the screw thread of the cover of piles and save the button of ignition.

Your opinion?


----------



## Verndog

philfranc said:


> ....escape by the screw thread of the cover of piles and save the button of ignition.



Roger that.....Houston we have a situation here....


----------



## Showmethelight

philfranc said:


> Excuse me I am Frenchman
> 
> I am no specialist but I also think that a too big warmth or a chemical reaction of piles or batteries create increase of pressure inside the lamp.
> 
> *For landing in this problem I recommend those who will leave the lamp in their car to unscrew the cork of piles légérement to lose the waterproof quality which becomes with the joint torique.
> *
> So if a surpession had to occur, it shall be able to escape by the screw thread of the cover of piles and save the button of ignition.
> 
> Your opinion?



Seems like a valid consideration to me. Seems very believable the seal at the end cap would be greater than that around the power switch and a build of any pressure caused by heat or batteries would take the the easiest escape route. Certainly couldnt hurt to loosen or unscrew the tail cap completely if the light is going to bake for hours in the glovebox of a 160 degree car...

On another note, I've found a 1 1/2" pvc pipe (inner diameter) will fit in the provided holster and the EA4 will fit within in it also, though with little clearance for the power switch. Ive cut a section of pvc to fit the holster and plan on filing a channel down the side to allow the power button to go in seamlessly. The point being to eliminate any chance of accidental activation from lock out mode. Ill post a picture of it later should anyone have any interest in the simple "fix" as I know ive read some complaints about the holster and accidental activation.


----------



## gradio

Received my shipment today and it included the EA4. Dropped in 4 eneloop's (2000mAh), and I like it. For the brightness I get, I like its size and how it fits my hand. No regrets. 
This will replace my big D-cell old maglight I keep at the back door for backyard use, and may duty some camping, fishing etc. needs.


----------



## Anonnn

As of late, this forum has been my one-stop-shop for entertainment. It has been entirely too long since someone said something about this light. I'm finding myself start to try to think of other things to do with my spare time. As you can tell, we're getting serious now. Someone, get us back on track!


----------



## moldyoldy

WRT LED coloring: Although I am not a fan of "warm" LEDs, I did order the EA4W version to pair up with my EA4 version (cool white) since I never owned a Nitecore "warm" LED. I have to admit that the Nitecore "warm" is more tolerable for me than the Zebralight "warm". I still liked the Fenix "neutral" color LED in their LD40 the best. It is very difficult to ascertain the brightness difference between the EA4W and the EA4 due to the color change.


----------



## GordoJones88

Anonnn said:


> As of late, this forum has been my one-stop-shop for entertainment. It has been entirely too long since someone said something about this light. I'm finding myself start to try to think of other things to do with my spare time. As you can tell, we're getting serious now. Someone, get us back on track!



So I was in Russia today, early in the morning shining my light around the sky, and everyone thought it was a meteor explosion.


----------



## d'mo

How does the EA4 throw compare to the TK41?


----------



## Divine_Madcat

d'mo said:


> How does the EA4 throw compare to the TK41?



Well, the flashlight is ligher, and its weight is more compact, so i can get better leverage on it, and throw it further downrange than the 41..

Wait.. not what you meant?  (Cant seriously answer, no 41...)


----------



## Gavin S.

My XM-L2 version arrived from Illumination Gear in record time and I'm digging this light. It just has such a great cool factor. 
http://www.fototime.com/51C381CE0349384/orig.jpg

Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


----------



## dc38

d'mo said:


> How does the EA4 throw compare to the TK41?



Not bad, but a sizeable hotspot compared to the tk41...basically not quite as far. the TK41 in street lit conditions can throw about 350' of appreciable light, whereas the ea4 can throw about 250' in the same conditions, but the hotspot is not quite as bright. When it's so dark that you can't see past your nose, both lights are great; the tk41 seems to throw about 150' further before the hotspot diminishes to the same intensity as the ea4. In pitch black conditions, it actually feels very lonely when shining these lights into the distance, as the spill fades out after 100'..


----------



## __philippe

roadkill1109 said:


> I wouldnt have any doubts to get another one just to collect it.
> 
> I hope they come up with a 2nd version that has a brighter and more durable button.
> 
> I might also get the P25 for the love of 18650's.



*Nitecore EA4 mk II *- wish list to the manufacturer:

- Change the switch cover current composition for a material porous to gases; this should prevent recurrence of any "ballooning" incidents, likely due to accidental gas venting from defective batteries in high temperature conditions; several such incidents were documented recently in flashlights forums.

- Make sure the selected cover material is transparent enough to allow the blue LED light shining thru; as it stands now, the LED blinking is barely visible, even in a dark environment.

- Cosmetic department: 

When can we expect a *Natural HA-III *anodized finish EA4, just like the newly released Nitecore P25 "Grey" ? 

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## fyesilova

__philippe said:


> *Nitecore EA4 mk II *- wish list to the manufacturer:
> 
> - Change the switch cover current composition for a material porous to gases; this should prevent recurrence of any "ballooning" incidents, likely due to accidental gas venting from defective batteries in high temperature conditions; several such incidents were documented recently in flashlights forums.
> 
> - Make sure the selected cover material is transparent enough to allow the blue LED light shining thru; as it stands now, the LED blinking is barely visible, even in a dark environment.
> 
> - Cosmetic department:
> 
> When can we expect a *Natural HA-III *anodized finish EA4, just like the newly released Nitecore P25 "Grey" ?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> __philippe



I am agree with you, 
I have not experienced a ballooning on my EA4, I will not be happy to see that.
Blue light can also be placed to side with special hole.


----------



## JimiJam

The reply I got from Nitecore RE: ballooning:



> Sorry for late reply as we have just come back to work after Spring Festival. As I see in the picture, the rubber cover of the switch is poping out. That's because the rubber cover was without small holes for bleeding out the air which comes from the batteries.
> We are sorry for causing you the inconvinience. Would you please use a needle to make some small holes for bleeding out the air? It will not affect the water proof capability but only to solve the poping out problem.


----------



## Verndog

Verndog said:


> Seriously though...does the light still work?* It's really hard to imagine the rubber expanding that far without pressure behind it...which would suggest a pin prick*







JimiJam said:


> The reply I got from Nitecore RE: ballooning:





> Sorry for late reply as we have just come back to work after Spring Festival. As I see in the picture, the rubber cover of the switch is poping out. That's because the rubber cover was without small holes for bleeding out the air which comes from the batteries.
> We are sorry for causing you the inconvinience.* Would you please use a needle to make some small holes for bleeding out the air?* It will not affect the water proof capability but only to solve the poping out problem.


----------



## Dubois

Give that man a coconut.


----------



## READYSETGO

JimiJam said:


> The reply I got from Nitecore RE: ballooning:



And a fix was had all along!


----------



## gradio

Okay - poke a hole in the switch cover. I'd think the manufacturer would have done enough testing for a period to discover this and made correction/upgrade.
Now, a tiny hole in the cover. If outdoors for the night (camping) would this possibility introduce condensation trapped under the cover which might not be desirable?
If mine decides to get puffy, I might completely rip the cover off (if it wouldn't hurt anything).


----------



## SCEMan

JimiJam said:


> The reply I got from Nitecore RE: ballooning:



Thanks for your effort in pursuing this. I just poked several holes with a needle...:thumbsup:


----------



## Al14159

Well, my situation is a bit worse. No ballooning. The switch had actually popped out! And I can't get it back in. This is a EA4W that I got from FastTech a few weeks ago. I just filed an incident with them:

----------------------------------------------------
The rubber cover on the switch of the EA4W popped out of the case. I had turned the light on high (not turbo) and left it standing on its tail to see how long the light would last. I returned in about an hour and noticed the cover had popped out of the light. This was indoors at about 68 degrees Fahrenheit. I tried pushing the cover back into the housing but can't get it to go it. The light is totally inoperative now. I had less than 2 hours of total usage with the light.
----------------------------------------------------


----------



## roadkill1109

Man, this thread is starting to remind me of the popularity and complaints that were coming in for the ZL SC600 when it was first launched and everyone kept complaining about problems here and there.

All legit though, i sure hope customer service of nitecore is up to speed and responsive!

dont agree with the pin prick though, you'd just compromise the water-proof switch. If it was just air in the switch, it should have leaked out after being pressed to activate the light. it expanded due to the heat.


----------



## __philippe

JimiJam said:


> The reply I got from Nitecore RE: ballooning:
> 
> _<<Sorry for late reply as we have just come back to work after Spring Festival. As I see in the picture, the rubber cover of the switch is poping out. That's because the rubber cover was without small holes for bleeding out the air <<which comes from the batteries.
> __We are sorry for causing you the inconvinience. Would you please *use a needle to make some small holes for bleeding out the air?
> It will not affect the water proof capability but only to solve the poping out problem.>>*_



And this year "Problem Resolution" Award goes to .......Nitecore, for their EA4 ballooning incidents inept _cop-out
_
_n. an excuse designed to shirk responsibility
n. an excuse to not finish something in an acceptable way
n. an excuse to take the easy way out of a sticky situation

___philippe


----------



## Al14159

Regarding my EA4W where the switch button blew out ...


FastTech responded to me within a matter of hours (wow!) and offered to replace or refund the light. I did like the light for the two hours I got to use it so I decided to take a chance on another one.


FastTech wants me to ship the bad light to an address in Florida (I'm in the US). They'll reimburse me up to $3 for USPS, claiming it should only cost $2 or so to send it back. I'm skeptical, thinking it will be closer to $5-$6 but that difference is OK.


When I get the new one, I'll do the same test (keeping it continuously on high) but this time I'll pay closer attention to it. If the switch starts to balloon, I'll stop and try poking a pin hole in the switch.


By the way, when I did this test last night, I was in the basement with the light upstairs and heard a "bang". I thought something had fallen down in the kitchen. Only later did I make the connection that the "bang" was the switch being blown out. ;-)


----------



## SCEMan

roadkill1109 said:


> dont agree with the pin prick though, you'd just compromise the water-proof switch. If it was just air in the switch, it should have leaked out after being pressed to activate the light. it expanded due to the heat.



I'm not too concerned with water-proofing as I have other lights I'd use in that environment. 
But, it'll be warming up in SoCal soon and this summer will certainly test any switch design failures.:shakehead


----------



## Verndog

SCEMan said:


> Thanks for your effort in pursuing this. I just poked several holes with a needle...:thumbsup:



I'm confused. Did this solve a ballooning switch problem or did you do this as a preventative measure?


----------



## FoxyRick

Yeah, I'm waiting to hear that this has worked on a ballooned switch. I'm sceptical at the moment...

Taking the battery cover off does not seem to cure the bump by releasing pressure, so if poking holes in it does then the switch is acting as a one-way valve.

I'm also not impressed by poking holes in the cover. Is the switch itself sealed? I've been looking at the disassembled picture and it is not obvious if it is sealed.

If not, then a pin-prick hole could well let moisture in, especially in changing temperature/pressure causing moist air to be pushed though the hole.


----------



## Al14159

FoxyRick said:


> Yeah, I'm waiting to hear that this has worked on a ballooned switch. I'm sceptical at the moment...
> 
> Taking the battery cover off does not seem to cure the bump by releasing pressure, so if poking holes in it does then the switch is acting as a one-way valve.
> 
> I'm also not impressed by poking holes in the cover. Is the switch itself sealed? I've been looking at the disassembled picture and it is not obvious if it is sealed.
> 
> If not, then a pin-prick hole could well let moisture in, especially in changing temperature/pressure causing moist air to be pushed though the hole.



I don't believe the switch is sealed. As far as I could tell, there is a plastic piece (in the shape of an inverted plunger) that sits between the rubber cap and the switch on the circuit board. When my rubber cap blew out, I couldn't figure out how the switch was supposed to work. Once I realized there *must* be something between the cap and switch, I searched and found this "inverted plunger" had flown across the room!


I too am skeptical about the pin holes. My gut is telling me that making a hole from the outside in would cause the hole to seal itself when there is pressure coming from the inside. It almost seems better to poke the hole from the inside out but then I'm not sure if I could get the plastic cover back into place.


----------



## SCEMan

H


Verndog said:


> I'm confused. Did this solve a ballooning switch problem or did you do this as a preventative measure?



Preventative measure per Nitcore's response.


----------



## Verndog

SCEMan said:


> H
> 
> Preventative measure per Nitcore's response.



Cool...thought I'd ask. Since it doesn't get much over 90 here in the NW, i wonder if I could get by with 1 hole??


----------



## dougie

It seems illogical to have to poke holes into a rubber switch cover to release gas pressure. If the hole is big enough to allow gas out then it will allow (at some point) moisture/water in. One way valves to release gas pressure do not usually take the form of rubber switch seals with holes in them......period!


----------



## JimiJam

SCEMan said:


> H
> 
> Preventative measure per Nitcore's response.



Preventative yes (I hope). Won't do jack if your button's ballooned already.

I'm not sure if there's an additional seal under the button (i.e. the switch is sealed from the battery chamber). When I had the torch sitting in the hot car (again) with the back off, the button/balloon pressure was quite tight, with no indication that pushing it was releasing air out (through the battery chamber) - indicating it may be sealed behind.

Anyway I sent mine off already so it's moot for me. If it comes back OK i'll just keep it inside till some others confirm how it fares in the heat


----------



## Verndog

JimiJam said:


> Preventative yes (I hope). Won't do jack if your button's ballooned already.



Oh come on Jimi...you just need the right person for the job.

Edit...removed pic per Norm


----------



## SCEMan

JimiJam said:


> I'm not sure if there's an additional seal under the button (i.e. the switch is sealed from the battery chamber).



Don't know if this shows an additional seal...

*See Rule #3 Do not Hot Link images. Please host on an image site, Imageshack or similar and repost – Thanks Norm*


----------



## mikekoz

This has to be the oddest flashlight issue I have ever read about!


----------



## READYSETGO

mikekoz said:


> This has to be the oddest flashlight issue I have ever read about!



I had a similiar thought earlier in the saga! Hopefully, this is not a broad issue with lots of these great lights at an excellent price point.


----------



## AbnInfantry

csshih said:


> Because I supplied the LEDs. :wave:
> 
> Craig



Even though I already own two "regular" Nitecore EA4s, as an ardent flashaholic who wants the "newest and brightest" I ordered an EA4 from Illumination Supply with the XM-L2 LED. The light arrived yesterday and I'm able to restrain my enthusiasm. I can't discern any increase in brightness or throw. With only an ostensible 10% increase in maximum output, that's not really surprising. What disappoints me, however, is the XM-L2 has a slightly yellowish tint compared with the "cool white" beam of my regular EA4s. I realize some people prefer a "warm" or neutral tint rather than a "cool white," but I'm not one of them. I suspect the warmer tint explains why the XM-L2 doesn't appear to be any brighter (or possibly even as bright) than my regular EA4s.


----------



## david57strat

jorn said:


> 65lm lo is too bright for my taste.
> No blinky modes? Thats great



There are S.O.S. and Beacon modes - but they're hidden.


----------



## d'mo

AbnInfantry said:


> Even though I already own two "regular" Nitecore EA4s, as an ardent flashaholic who wants the "newest and brightest" I ordered an EA4 from Illumination Supply with the XM-L2 LED. The light arrived yesterday and I'm able to restrain my enthusiasm. I can't discern any increase in brightness or throw. With only an ostensible 10% increase in maximum output, that's not really surprising. What disappoints me, however, is the XM-L2 has a slightly yellowish tint compared with the "cool white" beam of my regular EA4s. I realize some people prefer a "warm" or neutral tint rather than a "cool white," but I'm not one of them. I suspect the warmer tint explains why the XM-L2 doesn't appear to be any brighter (or possibly even as bright) than my regular EA4s.



Hmmm, disappointing. I just ordered one....


----------



## T-roc87

d'mo said:


> Hmmm, disappointing. I just ordered one....



Kind of to be expected since the updated led only can do so much. But... You shouldn't be disappointed. It is a great little light!


----------



## roadkill1109

AbnInfantry said:


> Even though I already own two "regular" Nitecore EA4s, as an ardent flashaholic who wants the "newest and brightest" I ordered an EA4 from Illumination Supply with the XM-L2 LED. The light arrived yesterday and I'm able to restrain my enthusiasm. I can't discern any increase in brightness or throw. With only an ostensible 10% increase in maximum output, that's not really surprising. What disappoints me, however, is the XM-L2 has a slightly yellowish tint compared with the "cool white" beam of my regular EA4s. I realize some people prefer a "warm" or neutral tint rather than a "cool white," but I'm not one of them. I suspect the warmer tint explains why the XM-L2 doesn't appear to be any brighter (or possibly even as bright) than my regular EA4s.



So far, the way the LED's coming out now, they'd probably have to tweak the driver of the EA4 to take full advantage of the L2 LED. It's a possibility, they just dropped it in without adjusting the circuit to drive the led harder. Weird that there's an issue with the tint again.


----------



## roadkill1109

T-roc87 said:


> Kind of to be expected since the updated led only can do so much. But... You shouldn't be disappointed. It is a great little light!



I agree, its a great light indeed. To think i was already spoiled by the 14500's and the 18650's, i never thought i'd love an AA-only based light again.


----------



## don.gwapo

Wish my L2 which is on route will be cool white. I'm a cool white only but if this light turns out on the neutral/warmer side, I will give it a try and besides I got it for a great deal.

My dozens unused eneloops will be happy to feed this light.


----------



## SCEMan

The EA4 has transformed my light preference for nightly walks in a way I had been seeking for a long time... 
I initially feared the UI would be too complex to easily manipulate - but I was pleased to discover it to be perfect for my requirements. The ability to instantly go from a memorized lower mode to turbo with a single press; and then back again with another, as I traverse overgrown paths to open hillsides, is awesome :thumbsup: 
Of course, the momentary turbo option from off is another great feature. 
And all this flexibility is positioned under my thumb in a natural hold while walking... No longer do I have to switch to an overhand tactical hold with my 6P-type, tailswitch mode-changing lights, to adjust my illumination to the changing terrain. Even my head-twist mode adjustable lights can't match the EA4's UI one-handed capabilities and ergonomics. 

Although a major shortcoming for some, the lack of a moonlight mode is a non-issue for me on my walks, and it would simply be a wasted mode to have to cycle through. I haven't encountered the light activation from "locked mode" problem but then I don't use the holster that much, and I prefer tail clickies for edc or pocket carry.

And I can finally use my idle stock of AA Eneloops - what a great compact powerhouse :twothumbs


----------



## garbman

Received my EA4W from Fa_____ch couple of days ago.
Overall happy with it but not so as i expected from the opinions here and there.
Im not so pleased with the output.
In clear eye the Sunwayman M40A (U2) outhrows it by far.
The hotspot is more defined and it goes farther.
I know that they don't use the same reflector but....
Also in a compare which i tried them with my camera, in Aperture mode of course, i found the Sunwayman a bit brighter.
Sunwayman M40A (U2) -100 Iso -20 Shutter 5.6 Aperture
Nitecore EA4W - 100 Iso -15 Shutter 5.6 Aperture
Where are the 860 Lumens compared to the 645 of the Sunway???
I don't decided yet i i'm going to keep it.
Still looking for a small AA thrower after that.


----------



## GordoJones88

garbman said:


> Im not so pleased with the output.
> In clear eye the Sunwayman M40A (U2) outhrows it by far.
> The hotspot is more defined and it goes farther.
> I know that they don't use the same reflector but....
> Also in a compare which i tried them with my camera, in Aperture mode of course, i found the Sunwayman a bit brighter.
> Where are the 860 Lumens compared to the 645 of the Sunway???
> 
> Still looking for a small AA thrower after that.



Well, since you asked. In my opinion, Nitecore has been consistently over-estimating their output the last year. Selfbuilt estimated the EA4 output at 770 lumens. If you have the XM-L T6 Neutral White emitter, you can expect on average about 10% less output. That's put the EA4W around 690 ANSI lumens. Turbo mode is not regulated, and is entirely dependent on the voltage of the cells. All the other modes are regulated of course. You will only get the full 690 ANSI lumens when you first turn the light on with freshly charged cells. After using turbo even for a few minutes, the cells will drain very quickly. When you use turbo again, due to the lower voltage of the battery sag, you will get less lumens for every minute you use turbo mode each time. In order to maintain maximum brightness, you will need to recharge your cells every 3 minutes.

That said, the EA4 is very bright for it's size. You are not going to find anything that throws this far in the same compact size. Illumination Supply has a special edition EA4 XM-L2 U2. Somebody mentioned the tint is a little on the warm side, so that is an option for you.


----------



## xevious

SCEMan said:


> The EA4 has transformed my light preference for nightly walks in a way I had been seeking for a long time...
> I initially feared the UI would be too complex to easily manipulate - but I was pleased to discover it to be perfect for my requirements. The ability to instantly go from a memorized lower mode to turbo with a single press; and then back again with another, as I traverse overgrown paths to open hillsides, is awesome :thumbsup:
> Of course, the momentary turbo option from off is another great feature.
> And all this flexibility is positioned under my thumb in a natural hold while walking... No longer do I have to switch to an overhand tactical hold with my 6P-type, tailswitch mode-changing lights, to adjust my illumination to the changing terrain. Even my head-twist mode adjustable lights can't match the EA4's UI one-handed capabilities and ergonomics.
> 
> Although a major shortcoming for some, the lack of a moonlight mode is a non-issue for me on my walks, and it would simply be a wasted mode to have to cycle through. I haven't encountered the light activation from "locked mode" problem but then I don't use the holster that much, and I prefer tail clickies for edc or pocket carry.
> 
> And I can finally use my idle stock of AA Eneloops - what a great compact powerhouse :twothumbs



Well said. I just got mine today and gave it a 15 minute test run with Eneloops. For most of the modes, you really don't need the manual to figure them out (with probably the exception of how to get the beacon to work). It's a very novel and useful UI that doesn't take much to get used to. The form factor is EXCELLENT. The fit and finish is definitely well done.

Yeah, a moonlight mode would be nice, but then this isn't a "trip to the bathroom" kind of light. As for actual lumens, I really don't care if it's less than spec or even below selfbuilt's measured 770. It's sure bright enough for most anything. Sunwayman's comparable model might put out more light in turbo mode, but does it have everything else the EA4 does? No, it doesn't.

I also really appreciate the lit button, which gives you useful information in standby and pre-lockout modes. Very grippy button too, perhaps just a little too soft and elastic feeling. I can see now why some switches swelled into a little balloon with a high enough temperature. I plan to never expose it to temperatures like that (I won't leave this in my car, that's for sure), so I've stopped being concerned.

Overall, a terrific light for a reasonable price on-line (got mine for $61 shipped, and seller even threw in an Olight pocket knife).


----------



## d'mo

Got my limited EA4 from Illumination Supply yesterday. Was pleased to see its visibly brighter ran my TK41.


----------



## martinaee

JimiJam said:


> Edit: Looks like link has had the same issue as me !!!
> =======
> 
> Hi everyone, I recently purchased this EA4 and was initially very happy with it. But..
> I left it in my car in the glovebox for a couple of days, then went to grab it tonight to go out for a walk...
> 
> (Gallery):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The button appears to have warped in the heat(!), expanded outwards, then cooled down into its current state  There's some piece of plastic (button?) underneath that rubber button that has come loose and is rattling around in there also, preventing proper operation of the light.
> 
> I live in Australia and it's common to get 45degree celcius days during summer (probably 60deg in a car). Is this thing not built to survive such temperatures?? Or did I just get unlucky? Just going to contact the store I bought it from and/or nitecore to ask for warranty, but thought I should bring it up here as a warning/query.
> 
> Sad :/



Yeah that doesn't just look like warping from heating. That looks like battery venting to me. I had the same thing happen to me with crappier NiMh batteries on my original LD20 Q5. The tailcap started balooning outwards like that and the tail was hard to unscrew. When I got it off I could hear the hiss and smell gases that were definitely from the batteries.

Moral of story use high quality eneloops or similar (or L91 primaries) and in my opinion put any light in a spot where it isn't enclosed and won't get super hot in the summer in a car. I actually would use a light colored bag and maybe put it under your seat or something.


----------



## __philippe

martinaee said:


> Yeah that doesn't just look like warping from heating. That looks like battery venting to me.



My thoughts precisely.

Excessive heat may be one factor involved in the few reported EA4 "ballooning" switch cover incidents, but the root cause is more likely due to *hydrogen gas pressure released by defective batteries* *venting* under a rather tight switch sealing gasket.

BTW, the recent suggestion by Nitecore to punch tiny holes in the switch cover to release gas pressure is at best a half-baked temporary "fix", with two drawbacks:

- it compromises the switch cover integrity
- it will inevitably lead to moisture finding its way to the inside in the long run.

Until Nitecore provides a better design to release accidental pressure from gas venting (such as a switch cover material porous to gas only, not to water), the "ballooning" risk inherent to gas venting from defective batteries will remain.

For now, heed Martinaee's advice, use only premium batteries (such as Eneloop) to mitigate the current risk. 

__philippe​


----------



## mikekoz

If the people who had the bulging switch cover problem are still following this thread, what type and brand of batteries were you using?


----------



## tickled

garbman said:


> Also in a compare which i tried them with my camera, in Aperture mode of course, i found the Sunwayman a bit brighter. Sunwayman M40A (U2) -100 Iso -20 Shutter 5.6 Aperture Nitecore EA4W - 100 Iso -15 Shutter 5.6 Aperture Where are the 860 Lumens compared to the 645 of the Sunway??? I don't decided yet i i'm going to keep it. Still looking for a small AA thrower after that.


 I don't believe the metering systems of digital cameras can be used to make definitive comparisons like this.


----------



## JimiJam

mikekoz said:


> If the people who had the bulging switch cover problem are still following this thread, what type and brand of batteries were you using?



Eneloops were used (perhaps 1-2 years old) and it was stored inside the car glovebox.

You guys might be right perhaps there's something wrong with my batteries, but I put the torch back in the car on another hot day with the tail cap off and no batteries in there - at the end of the day, the button was tight (increased pressure) as compared to the noticeably softer/more flexible (less pressure) button when the torch-body had cooled down.


----------



## FoxyRick

could be that the extreme heat inside upset the cells, causing them to vent even though there was nothing wrong with them. They are tubes full of chemicals after all. Just a thought...


----------



## jmpaul320

I like my ea4w so much I went ahead and ordered the xml2 version last night


----------



## Al14159

mikekoz said:


> If the people who had the bulging switch cover problem are still following this thread, what type and brand of batteries were you using?



I was using PowerEx 2700mAH batteries about 1-2 years old. They were used lightly in a Garmin GPS until I tried them in the EA4W. After the light switch blew out, my La Crosse charger charged them fine, and all cells evenly. Once I get my replacement light, I'll try a different set of batteries, including non-rechargeables.


----------



## SilverCaper

mikekoz said:


> If the people who had the bulging switch cover problem are still following this thread, what type and brand of batteries were you using?



Duracell Coppertop AA Alkaline Batteries. CopperTop batteries are rated for reliable operation in temperature extremes from -20°C/-4°F to 54°C/129°F and contains no added mercury. Nitecore does state that Primary AA batteries are one of the recommended types.


----------



## Bumble

SilverCaper said:


> Duracell Coppertop AA Alkaline Batteries. CopperTop batteries are rated for reliable operation in temperature extremes from -20°C/-4°F to 54°C/129°F and contains no added mercury. Nitecore does state that Primary AA batteries are one of the recommended types.



hi,whist they might be recommended by nitecore, they wont be recommended by a "flashaholic" . get some eneloops and use alkalines only in an emergency. i along with other people have had duracells leak in there lights!!! damaging the light in my case!!. just my opinion.


----------



## SilverCaper

Bumble said:


> hi,whist they might be recommended by nitecore, they wont be recommended by a "flashaholic" . get some eneloops and use alkalines only in an emergency. i along with other people have had duracells leak in there lights!!! damaging the light in my case!!. just my opinion.



The light was a gift to my father who used the Alkaline batteries. I do have Eneloops and told my father that I was going to give him some, but either my procrastination or his anxiousness to use the light or both got to him prior to receiving them.


----------



## xevious

Reliable and trusted batteries are a must in a quality light such as this. Actually, I wonder if a venting battery might cause an explosion out the front end of the light, spewing forth glass shards at high speed. Perhaps the switch cover blowing out is a little safer?


I had used the light for a while and then started to take closer notice of the beam pattern on a white wall. While there is a definite corona, it's not very distracting. But what I did notice is that there's a prominent greenish ring in the hotspot, fading out to a light purple tint. I have the same greenish ring on my Olight M20 output, but more so (the EA4 looks better with a smoother beam dispersion, no artifacts). When I put my Surefire U2 or NovaTac 120P up next to it, it's very noticeable that their beams are quite clean in comparison to the EA4.

Is the beam on the EA4w very similar or have less of a ring appearance?


----------



## herosemblem

My subjective interpretation of my ea4w's beam is that it is flawless and any weird rings or colors really aren't worth mentioning. Then again I may not be as...discerning as you.


----------



## xevious

herosemblem said:


> My subjective interpretation of my ea4w's beam is that it is flawless and any weird rings or colors really aren't worth mentioning. Then again I may not be as...discerning as you.


Well, that's what I'm on about--wondering if the EA4w has a cleaner beam pattern because of a different emitter. I'm not making any unfair nitpicking... beam pattern is a very common aspect of a flashlight to consider. I use my U2 and 120P as a task lights, because they have an extremely smooth beam that makes it easier on the eyes for writing on paper. The thick body of the EA4 would probably keep it out of that kind of use anyway... but still, I'm only trying to figure out if the beam pattern I'm noticing is a normal characteristic for this light or if there are random emitter variances.


----------



## herosemblem

Xevious, I just turned on my freshly-charged EA4W in turbo mode and shined it at my wall, 4 feet away. 
-The hotspot is "creamy white" and slightly larger than a softball. 
-Surrounding the hotspot is a "donut"...shaped exactly like a donut. The diameter of the donut (not the donut's hole) is...I don't know, 15 inches? The donut itself has a greenish tint, and upon even closer inspection, the greenish donut is almost made up of a rainbow of sorts, the type of rainbow that encircles the moon on certain nights. 
-Surrounding the donut is a maybe 3-foot diameter spill beam, which is "creamy white with a purple hue". 
All these observations are 4 feet from my white wall with my EA4W.

I use my EA4W a couple hours a week, and never noticed these things, and still do not care about them because they (as was mentioned by xevious) are inconsequential for a light of this sort. I even use low mode for walking around and such, and still do not notice these details of the beam profile. 
Hope this helps your questions, xev.


----------



## xevious

^ Yes it does, thanks for your detailed observations *herosemblem*. They're pretty much spot on with mine, although perhaps even more detailed than what I noticed.  Anyway, given the odds, I'm pretty confident my example is fine. Still amazed at how powerful it is given the form factor, and 4xAA power cells to boot. Pretty wild, something unimaginable just a couple of years ago.


----------



## Verndog

xevious said:


> ...When I put my Surefire U2 or NovaTac 120P up next to it, it's very noticeable that their beams are quite clean in comparison to the EA4.



I know I sure would be wanting to see something like that when comparing a light @ near 4x the cost.


----------



## mikekoz

Verndog said:


> I know I sure would be wanting to see something like that when comparing a light @ near 4x the cost.




I know what you mean. I think the EA4's beam is pretty good. Even if the other two lights mentioned had a cleaner beam, the only time you would notice a difference would be on a white wall, unless the beam just had tons of artifacts. I have never owned a Surefire U2, but I used to have a Novatac 120P and the EA4 blows it away in most every way I can think of, except maybe ruggedness. I think the 120P would edge it out just because of its size and simpler design.


----------



## r-ice

while I love the light, the holster isn't good enough and if I find that I accidentally turn on the light at odd times, causing me to run out of juice when I need the light the most. =[


----------



## don.gwapo

I'm late to the party but I just got my XM-L2 EA4.







Tint is cool white which I only prefer. The hotspot is tighter than my P60 and Sunwayman T20CS. And there's no rattle even I shake it.
The bezel doesn't sit flush but that just minor. But overall I really like it.


----------



## gradio

Couple friends/co-workers who have checked out my EA4 all guess higher price than what I paid for it. None of them seen/heard/knew about the EA4 before I showed it. The most close guess was $99. High guess was $150. 
5 folks made a guess, so far.


----------



## SCEMan

Now mine's perfect :thumbsup:






Wall of light flood, than with a quick flick, a thrower. And head protection and anti-roll too :twothumbs


----------



## Al14159

SCEMan said:


> Now mine's perfect :thumbsup:
> 
> Wall of light flood, than with a quick flick, a thrower. And head protection and anti-roll too :twothumbs



Is that a Butler Creek Blizzard Scope Cover size 4?


----------



## fireonhigh

i hope they will make a better ea4,im loving mine now ,compared to my mhc2 this kills it, but when i slither like a snake im loving the mh2c,,so i think nitecore should allow me to interchange heads. i could go from my 25mm to a 40mm or larger if needed.. hows that sound?


----------



## SCEMan

Al14159 said:


> Is that a Butler Creek Blizzard Scope Cover size 4?



Size 5; with clear lens replaced with diffuser lens.


----------



## Beamhead

What diffuser lens?


----------



## gbsbg

SCEMan said:


> Now mine's perfect :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wall of light flood, than with a quick flick, a thrower. And head protection and anti-roll too :twothumbs



Where did you get this diffuser from? I have been looking for such one for weeks without success!


----------



## __philippe

http://www.butlercreek.com/products/scopes_blizzard.html (lens cover features)

http://www.butlercreek.com/productsImages/charts/blizzard_scope_cover_chart.html (lens cover available diameters)

http://www.butlercreek.com/online_retailers.html

Mind you, the first URL points only to the bare clear-window Blizzard Scope cover

_*Beamhead's*_ question about the specific substitute *diffuser lens *fitted by *SCEMan* still pending...

Hint,hint ...

__philippe


----------



## markr6

SCEMan said:


> Now mine's perfect :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wall of light flood, than with a quick flick, a thrower. And head protection and anti-roll too :twothumbs



NICE!!!!!!!! It appears to be a perfect fit. Per specs, it seems like the number 4 would be the right fit. Does the 5 fit tight enough?


----------



## moldyoldy

I finally had the time to roam a bit after dark in a wooded park - both wild wooded sections and more open sections - with my new EA4 and EA4W and compare them with the SC600 and T60. Upon receipt, my brief wooded backyard testing of the EA4 series demonstrated that the reflector design compromises for spot/spill were well chosen. The EA4 beam has good spot/distance, but enough spill to be able to see some of the adjacent surroundings so the user is not looking down a light hole. Although the color accuracy in the woods was clearly better with the "W" version, I did not perceive that I could "see" any farther in to the woods. light backscatter eventually was the limiting factor. I have not used these lights in fog or heavy mist yet. My wanderings in the park after dark confirmed my initial good impressions of the EA4 series. I can even find and use the button switch with woolen gloves on! I will continue my trend towards AA-based lights in a side-by-side arrangement, or at maybe lights that can take both AA and 14500 cells. 

What was interesting was that since the bodies of the EA4 series are essentially a tube with no reflector bulges, it is possible to rubber-band them together and the beams will be essentially parallel. The resulting beam is impressive for short AA-based lights. For example, the "spot" from the EA4 + EA4W was visible inside the spot of the T60 out to 100 meters, yet the EA4+EA4W spill extended to over 1/2 of the T60 spill. I will experiment more along that idea, but I am not sure that the upcoming EA8 would give a better beam than 2x EA4s. And I do not like the length of lights with cells stacked end-to-end.

My flashlight needs outside a building? I have a wooded backyard bordering on the wild section of a park, so lots of critters are roaming thru my backyard, and many of them argue with each other. Hence the need is to find the "noises" at night and calm them down. You cannot sleep with two+ racoons fighting! Interesting that the two EA4s have been about as effective as one T60. The T60 allows me to scan with my eyes w/in the general spill area. However two EA4s allow me to keep one EA4 on one animal and find the other guilty critters. The SC600 is an effective wall of light for "near-house" ranges of 25+ meters, but farther out the EA4s clearly take over. An HID light would be relatively useless in that environment. Twice I tried out a TK41 and returned them - too tight of a spot. I am not trying to light up the other end of a farm field to clearly identify any predators that are way beyond my shooting abilities at night anyway. If that is the need, then the OLight SR series would be a response, or maybe a Nitecore TM26. In any case, a high price and any dedicated battery packs will strongly deter such purchases. With a good discount, the TM26 is tempting though.


----------



## SCEMan

gbsbg said:


> Where did you get this diffuser from? I have been looking for such one for weeks without success!





Beamhead said:


> What diffuser lens?



I made it from a small sheet of plastic I found around the office that I had used to make another diffuser. If you look around, you'll find many sources that can work. Or, you can buy some diffusing film from the thread in CPM.



markr6 said:


> NICE!!!!!!!! It appears to be a perfect fit. Per specs, it seems like the number 4 would be the right fit. Does the 5 fit tight enough?



Based on my experience with another Blizzard Scope Cover, they run small. I took a chance on the "5" and it fits nicely. You can add some black electric tape to tighten it further - which is a good idea as the torque of opening the cover loosens the fit with usage.


----------



## herosemblem

Would the size 4 fit at all?


----------



## __philippe

herosemblem said:


> Would the size 4 fit at all?


Check here for suitable lens cover diameters:

http://www.butlercreek.com/productsImages/charts/blizzard_scope_cover_chart.html


----------



## SCEMan

herosemblem said:


> Would the size 4 fit at all?



I don't believe so. The 5 is very snug and these don't stretch that much. When you try to stretch one to fit the head, the lens cap will no longer snap on properly.


----------



## herosemblem

Thank you, gents. I will see if I can get a hold of one of these size 5 covers. 
At work, I perform certain moderately heavy lifting tasks while the EA4 is tethered to my wrist. Occasionally, it goes swinging...into metal objects. Having the bezel protection would be excellent...not to mention it also looks awesome.


----------



## READYSETGO

markr6 said:


> NICE!!!!!!!! It appears to be a perfect fit. Per specs, it seems like the number 4 would be the right fit. Does the 5 fit tight enough?



I like the effect! I have a Cabela's gift card that is burning a hole in my pocket, Now, if I could just find which pocket. :thinking:


----------



## SCEMan

I'm definitely a fan of this setup :thumbsup:
Made my OSTS STL-V6 much more versatile.


----------



## Streamer

gbsbg said:


> Where did you get this diffuser from? I have been looking for such one for weeks without success!




The negative side here is when using the diffuser, the cover is shutting down the aperture of the lens. Lot of light is being blocked. Also what about any heat gain?


----------



## markr6

These diffusers got me excited about experimenting with some floodier options. I had some leftover d-c-fix so I carefully cut a nearly perfect circle and put it on the lens. WOW! This this is blinding on Turbo. Still a decent amount of throw, but not a permanent solution since I purchased the EA4 as my dedicated thrower. It was still fun to try!


----------



## Verndog

markr6 said:


> These diffusers got me excited about experimenting with some floodier options. I had some leftover d-c-fix so I carefully cut a nearly perfect circle and put it on the lens. WOW! This this is blinding on Turbo. Still a decent amount of throw, but not a permanent solution since I purchased the EA4 as my dedicated thrower. It was still fun to try!



Which brings me to EA4 #2....a dedicated flood that lights up the better part of 1/4 acre close up. Also better for indoors on level 1-2.


----------



## JohnSmith

I just received this light, and I am impressed. Time will tell whether it is durable and reliable, but first impressions are that this is a very bright light and the tint is good (white on all levels, slightly warmer on low). It puts out an insane amount of light from four Eneloops (free lumens!). HDS and Surefire are my favorite lights and I kind of felt like I was taking a chance on the EA4, but this thing is impressive and may be worth much more than the $54 I paid for it.


----------



## moldyoldy

I received my EA4 XM-L2 today. My very first impression was that it was brighter than the EA4 XM-L2. To be certain, I charged all 3 sets of AA cells (EA4, EA4W, EA4 XM-L2) and went out after dark & wandered thru my back yard picking out tree crowns at various ranges. The EA4 XM-L2 seems brighter by about the claimed lumens than an original EA4. The original EA4 at the 550 lumen level compares well to an LD41 at full output of 520 lumens. 

On the tree crowns, it was easy to see that the EA4 XM-L2 spot is tighter with a smaller less distinct doughnut hole. ie: the slight drop-off of illumination in the very center of the doughnut hole was less with the EA4 XM-L2 compared with the original EA4. 

The tint of the EA4 XM-L2 was a bit more brown-yellowish than the cool white of the EA4. Additionally, the color around the hotspot of the EA4 XM-L2 has a slight yellowish-greenish hue, noticeably more so than the EA4. The color differences between the EA4 and EA4 XM-L2 beams are not obvious under normal use. The switch boot is firmer.

I do not regret the purchase of any of the 3 different EA4 lights - a good light for the price!


----------



## SCEMan

Using the built-in flashing battery level indicator, at what point is everyone changing out their Eneloops?


----------



## herosemblem

moldyoldy said:


> I received my EA4 XM-L2 today. My very first impression was that it was brighter than the EA4 XM-L2...



Thanks for the info. Whatcha mean, though?


----------



## GordoJones88

moldyoldy said:


> I received my EA4 XM-L2 today. My very first impression was that it was brighter than the EA4 XM-L2.



He means he received the Illumination Supply Exclusive Special Edition EA4 XM-L2 U2 as compared to the EA4 XM-L U2 he already owns.


----------



## markr6

Verndog said:


> Which brings me to EA4 #2....a dedicated flood that lights up the better part of 1/4 acre close up. Also better for indoors on level 1-2.


LOL! The thought has crossed my mind! :twothumbs



SCEMan said:


> Using the built-in flashing battery level indicator, at what point is everyone changing out their Eneloops?



I believe I've been charging mine around 4.8 or 4.9v (~1.22v each). I always double check on my ZTS Mini battery tester. If that shows around 40% I charge them, but I'll also top them off now and then.


----------



## SCEMan

markr6 said:


> I believe I've been charging mine around 4.8 or 4.9v (~1.22v each). I always double check on my ZTS Mini battery tester. If that shows around 40% I charge them, but I'll also top them off now and then.



Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## xevious

markr6 said:


> I believe I've been charging mine around 4.8 or 4.9v (~1.22v each). I always double check on my ZTS Mini battery tester. If that shows around 40% I charge them, but I'll also top them off now and then.


That's not a lot of runtime, relatively speaking. On what basis do you recharge your cells at that point? I checked the Sanyo FAQ on Eneloops and there's nothing stated about how low you can run your cells down before recharging them. I've heard it said that it's not good to completely exhaust them, but 10% seems like a fair margin to me.


----------



## markr6

xevious said:


> That's not a lot of runtime, relatively speaking. On what basis do you recharge your cells at that point? I checked the Sanyo FAQ on Eneloops and there's nothing stated about how low you can run your cells down before recharging them. I've heard it said that it's not good to completely exhaust them, but 10% seems like a fair margin to me.



No 40% remaining isn't a lot at all, but I never run batteries down all the way. I like to always have a decent amount in case I head out with it in a hurry. Sort of like always trying to keep a half tank of gas in my car.


----------



## moldyoldy

GordoJones88 said:


> He means he received the Illumination Supply Exclusive Special Edition EA4 XM-L2 U2 as compared to the EA4 XM-L U2 he already owns.



ack, my typo. yes, that is what I meant. too many suffixes with the same characters!


----------



## Timothybil

When I bought my EA4W, I got it because I wanted a nice compact thrower, like a lot of others on this thread. But, I find myself doing what another poster said, grabbing it for close-up work just because it is closest. I am in the process of building a new PC, and have found myself several times grabbing my EA4 to light up some nook or cranny in the case. Low @ 60 lm works fine for this. I have to admit I haven't had much luck trying to hold it in my mouth like I could with my Microstream.  Oh, well, one can't have everything.

PS: I am enjoying watching the voltage when I put it back in standby. I currently have alkies in it (lithiums are on the way) and the voltage jumps back and forth between about 5.8 and 6.2, depending on how long I had it on. Interesting how those alkies keep regenerating themselves after they rest a while.


----------



## herosemblem

Tim, you said you're getting lithiums for your ea4. Is this correct?


----------



## xevious

I picked up an Olight S35 that came with a diffuser. Fits rather nicely on the Nitecore EA4 and doesn't partially obscure the lens like the Butler Creek scope cover. Also, the diffusion is nicely done. This makes the EA4 a little floody and softer, for desktop tasks. Only trouble is that I can't seem to find Olight offering this as a separate accessory. They've got plenty for the T-series and the M20... none showing for the S35. Might be worth an inquiry.


----------



## __philippe

Check here:

http://goinggear.com/olight-m21-white-filter.html

Fits the Olight M21 bezel (diameter 1.6" / 40.6 mm)
Should match Nitecore EA4 bezel nicely.

The Olight S35 filter range (bezel diameter 1.56" / 39.6mm) is available here:

http://www.onlinegunshop.co.uk/product.php?xProd=1063

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## Timothybil

herosemblem said:


> Tim, you said you're getting lithiums for your ea4. Is this correct?



Yes, I'm getting some Ultimate Lithiums (the 9x ones) from Amazon, they should arrive in a day or two. A good price, no leaks, more energy, and great cold weather response (esp. for the lights I keep in the car). This year hasn't been too bad for temps, only one or two nights below zero, but we have had -10s and -20s before, which would kill alkalines. Will let you know how they work.


----------



## SCEMan

I too was concerned about the Butler Creek solution obscuring the lens too. Turned out there's no impact at all with the diffuser snapped down and a slight loss in beam diameter with it up - but I don't even notice it anymore. For me, the convenience and protection is well worth it.
Thanks for the Olight find - it's nice to have another option. 




xevious said:


> I picked up an Olight S35 that came with a diffuser. Fits rather nicely on the Nitecore EA4 and doesn't partially obscure the lens like the Butler Creek scope cover. Also, the diffusion is nicely done. This makes the EA4 a little floody and softer, for desktop tasks. Only trouble is that I can't seem to find Olight offering this as a separate accessory. They've got plenty for the T-series and the M20... none showing for the S35. Might be worth an inquiry.


----------



## herosemblem

Timothybil said:


> Yes, I'm getting some Ultimate Lithiums (the 9x ones) from Amazon...



Ah, I didnt realize that lithium primaries are suitable for this light. Good to know! Currently I'm very content with my nimh rechargeables in the ea4w. I'm sure you will like the primaries. Hope they aren't too expensive in the long run!


----------



## Kokopelli

But what is the parasitic drain in EA4.? It may drain your batteries in a few months if it consumes too much just by sitting. P25 was said to have a high drain in tailcap on but soft button off position. 


---
Kokopelli, Istanbul, Turkey


----------



## windsurf

Kokopelli said:


> But what is the parasitic drain in EA4.? It may drain your batteries in a few months if it consumes too much just by sitting. P25 was said to have a high drain in tailcap on but soft button off position.
> ---
> Kokopelli, Istanbul, Turkey



At ~113. microamps in lockout mode, 2000mAh eneloops would last 737 days. Lithium primaries would likely last longer. But, I wouldn't rely on standby mode though, especially with the older flashing blue LED (like mine) of ~2 sec on/2sec off.


----------



## MachtSchnell

Dropped mine the other night. Slipped out of my pocket from about 3' onto concrete and the lens cracked. 
I thought this was rated at 1.5 meter impact resistance. 

Currently awaiting response from Nitecore to address the issue.
Needless to say it was my fault and I won't mind having to pay a few bucks for a new lens. 
But why rate it at 5' resistance, at that distance I feel the lens would have completely shattered out of its housing. 

Or I might find a replacement smoked lens or something to broaden the spill. Anyone know what the diameter of the lens is?


----------



## xevious

__philippe said:


> Check here:
> 
> http://goinggear.com/olight-m21-white-filter.html
> 
> Fits the Olight M21 bezel (diameter 1.6" / 40.6 mm)
> Should match Nitecore EA4 bezel nicely.
> 
> The Olight S35 filter range (bezel diameter 1.56" / 39.6mm) is available here:
> 
> http://www.onlinegunshop.co.uk/product.php?xProd=1063


Thanks, philippe. Only problem is that the Olight M21 has too large a bezel. I have the Olight S35 and although the Olight-USA website says 1.41"/36mm, it's actually a little larger at 38mm. The diffuser for the S35 fits the Nitecore EA4, which Nitecore says has a 40mm head, but appears to be more like 39mm. Thus, the M21 would be too large.


----------



## Timothybil

herosemblem said:


> Ah, I didnt realize that lithium primaries are suitable for this light. Good to know! Currently I'm very content with my nimh rechargeables in the ea4w. I'm sure you will like the primaries. Hope they aren't too expensive in the long run!



I got a bulk box of 24 from Amazon for $40USD, and since I am a Prime member, shipping was free. (It probably would have been free anyway since it was over $25, but as a Prime member I get 2-day shipping.) So far, I just am not using it enough to justify the step up to Eneloops. Maybe this summer when I am outside more, we'll see.

My son likes to play with my lights once in a while, so I ordered him one too (straight EA4 so we can tell them apart!) Hope he likes it. I still can't get over the fact that such a powerfull light like the EA4 is only a few dollars more than what I paid for my Surefire G2 ten years ago. I'm sure if you factor in inflation, it is actually cheaper! My how technology changes.


----------



## GordoJones88

Timothybil said:


> I got a bulk box of 24 from Amazon for $40USD, and since I am a Prime member, shipping was free. (It probably would have been free anyway since it was over $25, but as a Prime member I get 2-day shipping.) So far, I just am not using it enough to justify the step up to Eneloops. Maybe this summer when I am outside more, we'll see.



So rather than spend $10 on some Eneloops that will last 1500 recharge cycles, you spent $40 that will only last 6 cycles then throw away in the garbage. It's just that using the EA4 on turbo will drain the cells in about 20 minutes.


----------



## Verndog

MachtSchnell said:


> Dropped mine the other night. Slipped out of my pocket from about 3' onto concrete and the lens cracked.
> I thought this was rated at 1.5 meter impact resistance.



Sorry to hear that...that sucks. Some drop and survive, and some drop and don't. Depends on just where it lands I suppose. Once you get fixed, I suggest you add this anti roll ring to protect the bezel from further impact. They work very well, I bought one for each light.

http://www.officerstore.com/store/product.aspx/productId/13819/Streamlight-Stinger-Anti-Roll-Ring/


----------



## __philippe

xevious said:


> Thanks, philippe. Only problem is that the Olight M21 has too large a bezel. I have the Olight S35 and although the Olight-USA website says 1.41"/36mm, it's actually a little larger at 38mm. The diffuser for the S35 fits the Nitecore _*EA4, which Nitecore says has a 40mm head, but appears to be more like 39mm*_. Thus, the M21 would be too large.



I wonder....just measured my Nitecore EA4W bezel diameter with 3 different vernier calipers...
(measures taken on the black head part) 

measure #1 40.10mm
measure #2 40.15mm
measure #3 40.20mm

__philippe


----------



## xevious

^ OK, I'll defer to your measurements since I used a basic ruler (not a precision caliper).

I also figured out why the S35 diffuser fits. The diffuser has a slightly larger opening than the head of the S35, and then there's a narrower section right near the lens that "snaps" into place on the S35 head. The diffuser can't be fitted completely on the EA4 where it snaps down, however there's enough clearance on the main part of the diffuser cowling to fit mostly flush to it (it's not a very tight fit, but just enough that the diffuser won't fall off on its own).

So part of the problem with figuring out what diffusers fit is that the head shape has to be accommodated (aside from the front edge diameter). It would be useful if someone owning an Olight M21 gets an EA4 and can try the M21 diffuser on it.


----------



## gradio

__philippe said:


> I wonder....just measured my Nitecore EA4W bezel diameter with 3 different vernier calipers...
> (measures taken on the black head part)
> 
> measure #1 40.10mm
> measure #2 40.15mm
> measure #3 40.20mm
> 
> __philippe



I don't get it - 3 calipers each giving a different measurement. If one should measure say a coin thickness, shouldn't all give the same results? If not, how would one know which caliper is accurate? Ah, check maybe using feeler gauge?


----------



## xevious

^ 0.1mm is _REALLY_ small. You have to factor in variances with your eyes and your dexterity (ensuring tool is fully flush to what you're measuring). He really didn't need to include those subtle variances. 40mm would've sufficed.


----------



## gbsbg

Verndog said:


> Sorry to hear that...that sucks. Some drop and survive, and some drop and don't. Depends on just where it lands I suppose. Once you get fixed, I suggest you add this anti roll ring to protect the bezel from further impact. They work very well, I bought one for each light.
> 
> http://www.officerstore.com/store/product.aspx/productId/13819/Streamlight-Stinger-Anti-Roll-Ring/





xevious said:


> ^ OK, I'll defer to your measurements since I used a basic ruler (not a precision caliper).
> 
> I also figured out why the S35 diffuser fits. The diffuser has a slightly larger opening than the head of the S35, and then there's a narrower section right near the lens that "snaps" into place on the S35 head. The diffuser can't be fitted completely on the EA4 where it snaps down, however there's enough clearance on the main part of the diffuser cowling to fit mostly flush to it (it's not a very tight fit, but just enough that the diffuser won't fall off on its own).
> 
> So part of the problem with figuring out what diffusers fit is that the head shape has to be accommodated (aside from the front edge diameter). It would be useful if someone owning an Olight M21 gets an EA4 and can try the M21 diffuser on it.



I own both: the streamlight anti roll ring and the Olight M21 diffuser and both fit perfectly on the EA4.
The maximum outer bezel diameter of my EA4 is 40,13 mm, the inner diameter of the anti roll ring is about 36,7 mm and fits tightly and pretty protective, the inner diameter of the diffuser is about 39,5 mm and has a nearly perfect fit.


----------



## __philippe

gradio said:


> I don't get it - 3 calipers each giving a different measurement. If one should measure say a coin thickness, shouldn't all give the same results? If not, how would one know which caliper is accurate? Ah, check maybe using feeler gauge?



Calipers themselves are supposed to be equally accurate, but my measurement procedures may be open to question....

Measurements of cylindrical object diameter with vernier calipers require some attention to the following:

1. Caliper jaws need to be positioned exactly perpendicular relative to the measured object cross section plane
2. Reading interpolation of the vernier graduations need to be done carefully
3. Object itself may not be perfectly cylindrical overall 

I may have proved guilty of not following scrupulously points 1 and 2 for each measure, never mind falling prey to point 3 arising...

As *xevious* kindly noted, a 0.1mm variance between three distinct measures is probably negligible in the current context.

Besides, averaging the three distinct measures (40.10mm +40.15mm + 40.20mm) returns an EA4 head diameter of 40.15mm, close enough to the 40.13mm single value reported by *gbsbg* 

BTW, for those interested in the fine points of vernier caliper measurements,
check this nicely illustrated discussion:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper#Vernier_caliper

Followed, for good measure, by a "dragging a vernier" simulation:

http://www.stefanelli.eng.br/en/en-vernier-scale-nonius.html

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## Scott_T

just searching for some reviews of this light cause its on sale at amazon.com now for $54 2013-3-6


----------



## __philippe

Thanks to *gbsbg* for the slick EA4 pictures with anti-roll ring and M21 diffuser accessories fitted... :thumbsup:


----------



## Verndog

__philippe said:


> Thanks to *gbsbg* for the slick EA4 pictures with anti-roll ring and M21 diffuser accessories fitted... :thumbsup:



Where are you guys finding this M21 cap? All I can find is M20 "series" cap that is 34MM....not 40MM.


----------



## READYSETGO

Verndog said:


> Where are you guys finding this M21 cap? All I can find is M20 "series" cap that is 34MM....not 40MM.



I second this request after seeing the pics above! Credit card is warmed and ready for a new EA4 accessory.


----------



## __philippe

Couple of sources for Olight ø 40mm M21 white Diffuser (and colored Filters):

One well-established vendor:
http://goinggear.com/olight-m21-white-filter.html

And one current eBay source:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olight-M20-...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item33793180bb

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## Beamhead

Anyone found a flip-up diffuser that fits yet?


----------



## Verndog

Thank you!


----------



## markr6

Diffuser inbound! Thanks! The d-c-fix film works perfect but this is one light where I really want to switch back and forth between throw and flood.


----------



## markr6

Scott_T said:


> just searching for some reviews of this light cause its on sale at amazon.com now for $54 2013-3-6



Good price. I wonder if this is the newer version with the quick blue flash on the button instead of the longer 1s on/2s off?


----------



## Verndog

markr6 said:


> Diffuser inbound! Thanks! The d-c-fix film works perfect but this is one light where I really want to switch back and forth between throw and flood.



Same here x 2!... I have one setup for throw and one for glow!! ....Be nice to pop the cap off if something goes bump at a distance.


----------



## xevious

gbsbg said:


> I own both: the streamlight anti roll ring and the Olight M21 diffuser and both fit perfectly on the EA4.


Fantastic! Probably won't work with a holster head down, but at least having some anti-roll protection is super. Thanks for posting about this. :twothumbs


----------



## Anonnn

I'm using Eneloops in my EA4, and they each have a voltage rating of 1.2. Wouldn't that mean that the maximum voltage should be 4.8? I'm asking because I've seen them register at like 5.7 or 5.8 volts and am wondering how that happens. Is it not just a 1.2 x 4 calculation?


----------



## Dr.444

Anonnn said:


> I'm using Eneloops in my EA4, and they each have a voltage rating of 1.2. Wouldn't that mean that the maximum voltage should be 4.8? I'm asking because I've seen them register at like 5.7 or 5.8 volts and am wondering how that happens. Is it not just a 1.2 x 4 calculation?



1.4v of the charger ,, so 4 x 1.4 = 5.6v or something like that !


----------



## Anonnn

It seems odd that 'they' would even rate NiMH batteries at 1.2 volts. What does that even mean? From my own experience as well as that of others (from what I can gather from their anecdotes), it seems that 1.2v (or even slightly higher) is the point at which the batteries need to be recharged rather than the point at which they reach their average voltage level. e.g. 



markr6 said:


> I believe I've been charging mine around 4.8 or 4.9v (~1.22v each). I always double check on my ZTS Mini battery tester. If that shows around 40% I charge them, but I'll also top them off now and then.



What's the deal, yo?


----------



## markr6

I just got my Olight M21 diffuser and I love it! Here are some shots; quick and dirty with cell phone so disregard tint slight exposure variations.
*
Perfect fit and only adds about 1cm to overall length
*






*Beam from ~15' without diffuser*







*Same shot with diffuser....:twothumbs NICE! :twothumbs*


----------



## gilson65

has anyone compared it to the tk 41 i know the tk has about 80 odd mtrs more throw


----------



## 2000xlt

I want to see a video of the "business end" from a distance


sbbsga said:


> Is this the video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWQRfWZio58


----------



## Verndog

markr6 said:


> I just got my Olight M21 diffuser and I love it! Here are some shots; quick and dirty with cell phone so disregard tint slight exposure variations.
> *
> Perfect fit and only adds about 1cm to overall length*



Sweet, I have a few on order myself. Now go grab a razor knife and cut off that silly lanyard loop that nobody should ever use on the wrong end (this is what I did with my other olight diffusers and you cant even tell it was there) :twothumbs


----------



## Timothybil

Just went to the Nitecore site yesterday and noticed they now have RGB filters, regular diffusers, cone diffusers, and traffic cones in 40mm, and actually show an RGB filter on an EA4. These are not on the web page, but are in the downloadable catalog. Looks like they got the message.


----------



## __philippe

And now, for all EA4 hard-core afficionados, here is a source for genuine OEM 40mm White Diffusers and R G B colored Filters, as illustrated in Nitecore 2013 catalog, page 43-44:

http://www.doingoutdoor.com/flashlight-accessories-nitecore-c-35_36.html

NFD40 Diffuser White
NFR40 Filter - Red
NFG40 Filter - Green
NFB40 Filter - Blue

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## __philippe

And for good measure, (since we're on a roll), here is a source for the Streamlight 75702 Anti-roll Ring, 
which fits Nitecore EA4 bezel like a glove:

http://www.brightguy.com/Streamlight/Streamlight+Anti+Roll+Ring










__philippe


----------



## gbsbg

Verndog said:


> Sweet, I have a few on order myself. Now go grab a razor knife and cut off that silly lanyard loop that nobody should ever use on the wrong end (this is what I did with my other olight diffusers and you cant even tell it was there) :twothumbs



A possible use could be when you want to change from diffuser to throw and you have nothing to put it in or want to keep the second hand free or just that it don't get lost. Besides it is also an anti roll device.











As you can see I like playing around. The o-rings also improve the protection a little bit.


----------



## Verndog

gbsbg said:


> ..A possible use could be when you want to change from diffuser to throw and you have nothing to put it in...



Let me rephrase that..."that loop that I'll never use". I would not even consider carrying a light that way with stuff hanging off it flopping around.


----------



## gbsbg

Verndog said:


> Let me rephrase that..."that loop that I'll never use". I would not even consider carrying a light that way with stuff hanging off it flopping around.



Let me repeat: "I like playing around"
The light may look different tomorrow.


----------



## SCEMan

gbsbg said:


> A possible use could be when you want to change from diffuser to throw and you have nothing to put it in or want to keep the second hand free or just that it don't get lost. Besides it is also an anti roll device.



Yeah, that's been my experience with slip-on slip-off diffusers. Where do you put it when not in use and how to find it when you want it again?


----------



## markr6

SCEMan said:


> Yeah, that's been my experience with slip-on slip-off diffusers. Where do you put it when not in use and how to find it when you want it again?



I like the lanyard idea, but I'm simply putting it in my pocket, setting it down if for a short while or holding it in my other hand.


----------



## SCEMan

markr6 said:


> I like the lanyard idea, but I'm simply putting it in my pocket, setting it down if for a short while or holding it in my other hand.



No lanyard for me, I like things simple that's why I'll stick with my flip-up cap method.


----------



## Dr.444

gbsbg said:


>



Looks pretty CooL :twothumbs


----------



## xevious

I'm using the Olight S35 holster with mine and it works well. A bit of a snug fit, so it's not an easy quick-draw, but good enough and just the right length.


----------



## sspc

Anyone know the apprx output of the lowest mode with the diffuser on?


----------



## gbsbg

sspc said:


> Anyone know the apprx output of the lowest mode with the diffuser on?



On my EA4W I measured:

lowest mode:
without diffuser: 1000 lx = estimated 48 lumens
with diffuser: 70 lx = estimated 16 lumens

highest mode:
without diffuser: 20000 lx = estimated 770 lumens
with diffuser: 1700 lx = estimated 440 lumens

The lux are measured in 1 m, the lumens are estimated from my ceiling bounce and in comparison with my other lights


----------



## sspc

Thank you for the details. I appreciate it.


----------



## Ceya!

Can the diffuser fit the base of the light?

I like the set up.

Keep playing around love to see what it looks next.LOL

S/F,
CEYA!



gbsbg said:


> A possible use could be when you want to change from diffuser to throw and you have nothing to put it in or want to keep the second hand free or just that it don't get lost. Besides it is also an anti roll device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see I like playing around. The o-rings also improve the protection a little bit.


----------



## gbsbg

Ceya! said:


> Can the diffuser fit the base of the light?
> CEYA!



No


----------



## __philippe

The Olight M21X slim rubber diffuser slips smoothly with a tight fit round the EA4 bezel (ø 40.10mm).

Pushing hard enough, one might perhaps wrench it round the wider tail end (ø 40.18mm),
but at the risk of permanent deformation into a looser fitting bezel diffuser.

So, heed *gbsbg*'s advice: DON'T.

__philippe


----------



## markr6

__philippe said:


> The Olight M21X slim rubber diffuser slips smoothly with a tight fit round the EA4 bezel (ø 40.10mm).
> 
> Pushing hard enough, one might perhaps persuade it round the wider tail end (ø 40.18mm),
> but at the risk of permanent deformation into a looser fitting bezel diffuser.
> 
> So, heed *gbsbg*'s advice: DON'T.
> 
> __philippe



Yeah, I thought of this and tried it. No Go!


----------



## xevious

Thanks again for the tip on the Streamlight anti-roll sleeve. I got one and installed it... fits snug and does the job without any light obstruction.


----------



## SkOrPn

Timothybil said:


> I got a bulk box of 24 from Amazon for $40USD, and since I am a Prime member, shipping was free. (It probably would have been free anyway since it was over $25, but as a Prime member I get 2-day shipping.) So far, I just am not using it enough to justify the step up to Eneloops. Maybe this summer when I am outside more, we'll see.
> 
> My son likes to play with my lights once in a while, so I ordered him one too (straight EA4 so we can tell them apart!) Hope he likes it. I still can't get over the fact that such a powerfull light like the EA4 is only a few dollars more than what I paid for my Surefire G2 ten years ago. I'm sure if you factor in inflation, it is actually cheaper! My how technology changes.


I wasn't planning on buying batteries but I accidentally came across a lot of 96 Energizer Ultimate Lithiums (x9 type) for 100 doll hairs and knowing their performance and extreme storage longevity I had to pull the trigger. Now, I need to find products that are Ok with lithiums, lol. So, are you using your EA4 with the Lithiums and if so, are you doing so at risk to the light or is it officially supported by the EA4? I wonder because some things are too sensitive for Lithiums higher voltages. I wanted to see if my LD22 would get brighter, but to worried about trying it. I been using Eneloop pros in all my flashlights so far.

Anyway thanks for the information

SkOrPn


----------



## Timothybil

AFAIK, lithiums aren't any higher voltage than straight alkalines (I think 1.7v instead of 1.5). According to the Nitecore manual, lithiums are acceptable, but alkalines and NiMH are recommended. LiFePO4s and 14500s are 'banned', I assume because of the higher voltage. As well as the EA4, I have a Nikon L10 camera, a couple of ICONs, and an electronic flare I keep in my car that will all be using the lithiums as well. That is one of the major reasons I decided to stay with primaries rather than switch to NiMH. If I start burning through the cells too fast on the EA4 I will probably switch to Eneloops for that, but will leave the rest on primaries.


----------



## markr6

I bought the Nitecore NFD40 white filter just to compare with the Olight on my EA4. Bottom line, it's JUNK!

While the Nitecore filter fits tighter due to the "stickier" rubber material, it's:

1. Bigger and bulkier. Looks nowhere near as nice and sleek as the Olight filter.
2. Way too floody. The Olight gives a very smooth flood but still has a bright center so it has some good throw
3. The lens is cheap plastic and falls out of the rubber VERY easy. Olight lens appears to be much higher quality and tightly held in the rubber cap.

Unfortunately the NFD40 is going straight into the "junk box" never to be used again. I would sell or return it but it's not worth the postage.

It was worth $10 to try it out. Hoepfully this helps others make a decision when considering a filter for this awesome light.


----------



## Verndog

Ya, the Olight filter is going to be tough to beat. I liked the effect of the DC-fix diffuser screen a bit better (had a tad more throw but still nice spread), but you lose the advantage of easy on / off.


----------



## markr6

Verndog said:


> Ya, the Olight filter is going to be tough to beat. I liked the effect of the DC-fix diffuser screen a bit better (had a tad more throw but still nice spread), but you lose the advantage of easy on / off.



Exactly! Even after spending 15 minutes to carefully cut a perfect circle, I realized I couldn't handle "permanently" losing the option to throw.


----------



## SeamusORiley

markr6 said:


> I bought the Nitecore NFD40 white filter just to compare with the Olight on my EA4. Bottom line, it's JUNK!
> 
> While the Nitecore filter fits tighter due to the "stickier" rubber material, it's:
> 
> 1. Bigger and bulkier. Looks nowhere near as nice and sleek as the Olight filter.
> 2. Way too floody. The Olight gives a very smooth flood but still has a bright center so it has some good throw
> 3. The lens is cheap plastic and falls out of the rubber VERY easy. Olight lens appears to be much higher quality and tightly held in the rubber cap.
> 
> Unfortunately the NFD40 is going straight into the "junk box" never to be used again. I would sell or return it but it's not worth the postage.
> 
> It was worth $10 to try it out. Hoepfully this helps others make a decision when considering a filter for this awesome light.



do you have a model number for the Olight filter? I would like to see if it fits the Nitecore P25. I only found one that is sold with the Olight flashlight.


----------



## markr6

SeamusORiley said:


> do you have a model number for the Olight filter? I would like to see if it fits the Nitecore P25. I only found one that is sold with the Olight flashlight.



Sorry I'm not at home now to check the packaging, but I got mine on Ebay. The description was "Olight M20 M30 M3X...Flashlight Diffuser Red Green Blue Filter". A Google seach for "Olight M20 filter" should get it done. Make sure you get the white, of course


----------



## SeamusORiley

markr6 said:


> Sorry I'm not at home now to check the packaging, but I got mine on Ebay. The description was "Olight M20 M30 M3X...Flashlight Diffuser Red Green Blue Filter". A Google seach for "Olight M20 filter" should get it done. Make sure you get the white, of course



Thanks, Mark. I was concerned about getting the wrong size.


----------



## markr6

SeamusORiley said:


> Thanks, Mark. I was concerned about getting the wrong size.



No problem. It's a nice fit. If you're throwing it in a pack where it's getting tossed all over I can imagine it slipping off. But putting a strip of electrical tape inside the cap to reduce the inside diameter would help. Out of the package the rubber seemed a bit slick and oily, so I cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and that really helped.


----------



## __philippe

SeamusORiley said:


> Thanks, Mark. I was concerned about getting the wrong size.



Hate to interfere, but Olight _*M20 (35.5 mm) filters / diffusers* are the wrong size for the Nitecore EA4 40mm bezel .

_You want the Olight *M21 *(also known as M21-X) to fit snugly 40mm diameter bezels.

__philippe


----------



## markr6

__philippe said:


> Hate to interfere, but Olight _*M20 (35.5 mm) filters / diffusers* are the wrong size for the Nitecore EA4 40mm bezel .
> 
> _You want the Olight *M21 *(also known as M21-X) to fit snugly 40mm diameter bezels.
> 
> __philippe



No problem at all...I don't want to give bad information! I see now after Googling the Ebay page - it gives a dropdown to choose from. I must have selected the M21.

Thanks for the clarification philippe


----------



## SeamusORiley

I should probably be more clear with my expectation:

I am looking for the diffusers that fit:

EC 25 (34mm) 
P25 (40m)

The upcoming SRT series will have the same sizes plus the smaller 25mm.

For the 40mm (P25), which Olight diffuser?


----------



## markr6

SeamusORiley said:


> I should probably be more clear with my expectation:
> 
> I am looking for the diffusers that fit:
> 
> EC 25 (34mm)
> P25 (40m)
> 
> The upcoming SRT series will have the same sizes plus the smaller 25mm.
> 
> For the 40mm (P25), which Olight diffuser?



Olight M21 diffuser is 40mm, so you'll want that. EA4 is also 40mm and it's a nice fit.


----------



## Sarratt

A Bicycle inner tube stretched over the head of the ea4 gives both shock support and anti-roll .
It's an amazingly good fit ... not too tight but not too loose.
And if you want anti roll ..insert 4 beads , double the tube back and voila!... anti roll plus shock absorption.

It obviously makes the head of the light slightly larger and not as easy to withdraw from a holster.

I'm very happy with my homemade anti.roll .... I haven't taken photos because its very simple but if asked I will.


PS.....(27x1.75)


----------



## MiXiN

I just pulled the trigger on this.My inventory of decent AA NiMh cells is pretty much depleted, so can anyone suggest any decent ones that wont gas?What's everyone using?Cheers.


----------



## T-roc87

MiXiN said:


> I just pulled the trigger on this.My inventory of decent AA NiMh cells is pretty much depleted, so can anyone suggest any decent ones that wont gas?What's everyone using?Cheers.



The sanyo eneloops are very well liked around here!


----------



## crazyk4952

T-roc87 said:


> The sanyo eneloops are very well liked around here!



I have been using eneloops for the past 5+ years and have never had one die.


----------



## MiXiN

Eneloops it is, then.

Is it the White 2000mAH ones you refer to, or the Black XX variants?

Cheers again.


----------



## MiXiN

Eneloops it is, then.

Is it the White 2000mAH ones you refer to, or the Black XX variants?

Cheers again.


----------



## T-roc87

MiXiN said:


> Eneloops it is, then.
> 
> Is it the White 2000mAH ones you refer to, or the Black XX variants?
> 
> Cheers again.



I perfer the white 2000mah since they are cheaper and can be cycled many more times than the black ones. I have 32 white eneloops for the last 4 years without any failures.


----------



## MiXiN

Thanks T-Roc.

Off to buy some right now.


----------



## crazyk4952

MiXiN said:


> Eneloops it is, then.
> 
> Is it the White 2000mAH ones you refer to, or the Black XX variants?
> 
> Cheers again.



I have seen some discussion about the eneloop XX's only lasting as long per charge as the 2000 mAH ones in some cases. I would just stick with the 2000 mAH ones since they are half the price and have a proven track record.


----------



## Racer

I have the 2nd generation Eneloops but I see they are up to the 3rd gen now.


----------



## Gilfner

WOW!  Has anyone else seen the EA4 L2 (XL-L2) at Illumination Supply? 950 Lumens! There's a link on the CPF front page. They have a coupon code going for 25% off (ISCRAZY).  That's less than the best price I could find on the std EA4. I ordered 2 (one for my Dad's Birthday). I can't WAIT!


----------



## lightliker

I am jealous at all of you people, walking around with a nice EA4 :green:, I ordered mine at Fasttech in neutral white and are waiting at the customs in the netherlands to pass this thing to me, after paying about $20 for handling and declaring....... Plus taxes.What a rip off!!! Wish this light was available in neutral white in The Netherlands, I could have picked it up here

Update: Today my EA4 arrived. Sometimes you are lucky!
Compared to the T60cs and the SR90 it has a very nice warm white colour
compared to the SR90 at low (900 lumen) this dinky really performs nice! :twothumbs
And this with four eneloops, my new and emergency family light


----------



## wedlpine

Gilfner said:


> WOW!  Has anyone else seen the EA4 L2 (XL-L2) at Illumination Supply? 950 Lumens! There's a link on the CPF front page. They have a coupon code going for 25% off (ISCRAZY).  That's less than the best price I could find on the std EA4. I ordered 2 (one for my Dad's Birthday). I can't WAIT!



I just recieved mine from Illumination Supply on Monday. Couldn't pass up the deal. I think I am going to order the EA8 as well using the coupon code "caveman" for a nice discount and free shipping. It comes out to about $85.00.


----------



## MiXiN

Racer said:


> I have the 2nd generation Eneloops but I see they are up to the 3rd gen now.



Yes, my Eneloops turned up this morning and are 3rd Generation.

I'm just in the process of giving them some gentle cycling before giving them some serious abuse in the EA4 that I'm waiting on.


----------



## xevious

wedlpine said:


> I just recieved mine from Illumination Supply on Monday. Couldn't pass up the deal.


The L2 is rated at 90 lumens brighter... can't see how that would make much of a difference. Do you see much of any?


----------



## T-roc87

xevious said:


> The L2 is rated at 90 lumens brighter... can't see how that would make much of a difference. Do you see much of any?



I believe this was covered a few pages back where people bought the L2 version after they owned the original and were dissapointed that there was very little difference between them. I thought the L2 had a bit bigger hotspot though.


----------



## Spork

delete. found answers a few pages back


----------



## xevious

T-roc87 said:


> I believe this was covered a few pages back where people bought the L2 version after they owned the original and were dissapointed that there was very little difference between them. I thought the L2 had a bit bigger hotspot though.


Thanks--I missed that. So, good to know there's no point. Seems like the EA4W is well received, a little more so than the EA4.


----------



## chipdouglas

Does anyone know of a Nitecore representative on these forums ? I'm trying to find out whether Nitecore is soon to come up with an improved version of the EA4, as I'm about to get one.


----------



## xevious

^ Doubtful as the light was just released a short time ago. Plus... there's not much to improve, really.


----------



## Bumble

chipdouglas said:


> Does anyone know of a Nitecore representative on these forums ? I'm trying to find out whether Nitecore is soon to come up with an improved version of the EA4, as I'm about to get one.



theres an "improved" model from illumination supplies with an upgraded XM-L2 U2 1C LED https://illuminationsupply.com/explorer-series-eaec-c-28_53_73/nitecore-ea4-l2-xml2-p-324.html if you look in dealers corner on CPF marketplace, there is a discount code for this light which knocks $18 off the price down to $56 

EDit see posts above code already posted here.


----------



## Slazmo

Anyone stripped one of these EA4's down? I need to take the Bezel off and get to the lense and whatever that plastic thing that is sticking out from under my torch... Nitecore want me to ship it to them for warranty but cost of doing so is a turn off...


----------



## __philippe

Better ask ...Slazmo..

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-how-to-open-it-amp-fix-the-crooked-Bezel-etc


----------



## xevious

*Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*

Have you guys seen this yet?


Trustfire TR-A9.


Looks like quite the EA4 knock-off, sporting 4x14500's instead of AA's. Trustfire took a no-holds-barred approach for the most part, except for the tail cap. Also, no LED in the switch to indicate voltage and no memory. Quite expensive for what you get, actually (given the discounts available for the EA4).


----------



## markr6

*Re: Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*



xevious said:


> Have you guys seen this yet?
> 
> 
> Trustfire TR-A9.
> 
> 
> Looks like quite the EA4 knock-off, sporting 4x14500's instead of AA's. Trustfire took a no-holds-barred approach for the most part, except for the tail cap. Also, no LED in the switch to indicate voltage and no memory. Quite expensive for what you get, actually (given the discounts available for the EA4).



WOAH! Yeah that looks familiar. Definitely worth an extra $10 for the EA4.


----------



## Bumble

*Re: Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*



xevious said:


> Have you guys seen this yet?
> 
> 
> Trustfire TR-A9.
> 
> 
> Looks like quite the EA4 knock-off, sporting 4x14500's instead of AA's. Trustfire took a no-holds-barred approach for the most part, except for the tail cap. Also, no LED in the switch to indicate voltage and no memory. Quite expensive for what you get, actually (given the discounts available for the EA4).



it is quite expensive eh ? as you can get a nitecore EA4 delivered for $46 i know which i would choose.. and it wouldnt be the trustfire lol


----------



## Divine_Madcat

*Re: Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*

And yet i bet the stupid rubber button cover wont balloon like mine is now too (and i can see some sort of part of the button rattling around inside....)


----------



## Slazmo

*Re: Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*

looks like a direct ripoff of the EA4 in every way shape and form, except for the button...


----------



## markr6

*Re: Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*

Uh oh! I was cleaning the threads on the cap and body and this happened even though I was being careful:







I'm surprised I haven't seen any other mention of this. There appears to be some residue from glue inside the silver cap which holds the spring base in the cap. Not a huge deal, but it's loose now so I'll have to be careful when replacing batteries. I may try some superglue for metal.


----------



## Slazmo

*Re: Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*

Well at least we all know that this can be taken off for further cleaning under that board! Thanks.

P.s. Would be an excellent place to write your name or a police identifiable number under that PCB board for JIC the torch is ever stolen...

I would just re-glue that alloy cap back on with some neutral cure silicone so that it can be removed in the future - its not a critical part that needs to be on there for good as its not holding any weight or force.


----------



## markr6

*Re: Nitecore EA4 Knock Off*



Slazmo said:


> Well at least we all know that this can be taken off for further cleaning under that board! Thanks.



That reminds me, they had a TON of lubricant under there.


----------



## Haroldlutsen

Bumble said:


> it is quite expensive eh ? as you can get a nitecore EA4 delivered for $46 i know which i would choose.. and it wouldnt be the trustfire lol



Who delivers for $46 my dads bday coming up and I need another my wife has mine most of the time


----------



## mmace1

Anyone here used both the standard and the upgraded version? https://illuminationsupply.com/nitecore-ea4-l2-xml2-p-324.html


----------



## don.gwapo

I have them both. My dad have the XM-L2 and I have the U2 cool white. 

The XM-L2 is toward neutral side of cool and have a tighter spot but not much compared to the U2.


----------



## __philippe

Haroldlutsen said:


> Who delivers for $46 my dads bday coming up and I need another my wife has mine most of the time



Check your PM re: (affordable b'day presents for the whole family)...

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## PANGES

__philippe said:


> Check your PM re: (affordable b'day presents for the whole family)...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> __philippe



Can you shoot me the info also?


----------



## __philippe

PANGES said:


> Can you shoot me the info also?



Imminent b'day as well ? ...done ! (wonder if I should start a consulting business..?...)

__philippe


----------



## xed888

Does the EA4W have the same laser marking as an EA4?

As in, without the packaging, can I tell the difference between an EA4 and EA4W just by the labelling on the torch itself?


----------



## melty

xed888 said:


> Does the EA4W have the same laser marking as an EA4?
> 
> As in, without the packaging, can I tell the difference between an EA4 and EA4W just by the labelling on the torch itself?


----------



## markr6

xed888 said:


> Does the EA4W have the same laser marking as an EA4?
> 
> As in, without the packaging, can I tell the difference between an EA4 and EA4W just by the labelling on the torch itself?



Not necessarily. I have a neutral white but it DOES NOT have the "W" on the light (actually my avatar pic). It was on the packaging and I can confirm the tint is neutral. I ordered this right at the beginning and I think Nitecore changed this soon after.


----------



## xed888

Thanks for the feedback guys


----------



## Bike Rider

Just spent the last few hours reading this thread... wow OMG! 

So what did I do next? Ordered one  Can't wait. Hoping to get it delivered by the end of the week. 

I've used Nitecore's before and they've been a rock solid performer for me, this should be awesome. 

Oh btw - hello everyone :wave:


----------



## GordoJones88

Bike Rider said:


> Just spent the last few hours reading this thread... wow OMG!
> Ordered one.
> Oh btw - hello everyone.



You will also need an :

Eagletac GX25A3

Sunwayman D40A

Oh btw - you're welcome.


----------



## AFireInside

GordoJones88 said:


> You will also need an :
> 
> Eagletac GX25A3
> 
> Sunwayman D40A
> 
> Oh btw - you're welcome.





As good as those look I just can't justify the price* over the EA4




*i may have also said that about the TM26 over the Terminator... Thanks ordered one


----------



## markr6

Bike Rider said:


> Just spent the last few hours reading this thread... wow OMG!
> 
> So what did I do next? Ordered one  Can't wait. Hoping to get it delivered by the end of the week.
> 
> I've used Nitecore's before and they've been a rock solid performer for me, this should be awesome.
> 
> Oh btw - hello everyone :wave:



Pick up a diffuser for the Olight M21. Obviously a different brand but it fits the EA4 well and you'll LOVE the smooth floody light.


----------



## Bike Rider

GordoJones88 said:


> You will also need an :
> 
> Eagletac GX25A3
> 
> Sunwayman D40A
> 
> Oh btw - you're welcome.





markr6 said:


> Pick up a diffuser for the Olight M21. Obviously a different brand but it fits the EA4 well and you'll LOVE the smooth floody light.



Thank you gents, you guys are BAD! Already adding fuel to this quickly growing addiction of the need for light.... 

The diffuser IMO is a must have. Sorry off topic but can someone recommend a good place to buy from Australia?


----------



## Slazmo

markr6 said:


> Pick up a diffuser for the Olight M21. Obviously a different brand but it fits the EA4 well and you'll LOVE the smooth floody light.



trying so very hard to get that M21 diffuser on eBay at the moment! I am trying to get through to a Russian / Ukrainian guy that has listed them and I can't seem to get him to either check the internal measurement of 40mm or to confirm that its for the Olight M21...

So now I have resorted to translating english to russian - and have cracked the language barrier... Still this guy is persistent in denying that the filter fits the EA4...


----------



## sticktodrum

I just ordered one of these, and a diffuser. Now the waiting game begins...


----------



## __philippe

Slazmo said:


> trying so very hard to get that M21 diffuser on eBay at the moment! I am trying to get through to a Russian / Ukrainian guy that has listed them and I can't seem to get him to either check the internal measurement of 40mm or to confirm that its for the Olight M21...
> 
> So now I have resorted to translating english to russian - and have cracked the language barrier... Still this guy is persistent in denying that the filter fits the EA4...



Much easier *Olight filters/diffusers* sources to deal with here: 

*M21-X* (internal diameter 40.1mm)
http://el-top.com/catalog/accessories-0

*M22 *(internal diameter 40.6mm)
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004172/1311103-olight-m22-flashlight-white-beam-diffuser

see also here for Olight filters "fit-ability" summary table;
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ffusers-for-all-seasons&highlight=all+seasons

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## kj2

__philippe said:


> Much easier *Olight filters/diffusers* sources to deal with here:
> 
> *M21-X* (internal diameter 40.1mm)
> http://el-top.com/catalog/accessories-0
> 
> *M22 *(internal diameter 40.6mm)
> http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004172/1311103-olight-m22-flashlight-white-beam-diffuser
> 
> see also here for Olight filters "fit-ability" summary table;
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ffusers-for-all-seasons&highlight=all+seasons
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> __philippe


For what I know, Olight hasn't made a official colour filter for the M22 yet. But.. I ordered a M21 colour filter and that one does fit my M22


----------



## __philippe

kj2 said:


> For what I know, Olight hasn't made a official colour filter for the M22 yet. But.. I ordered a M21 colour filter and that one does fit my M22



Really ? Try these substitute for size, then...

http://www.fasttech.com/search?m22

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## don.gwapo

Lots of talk about filter/diffuser for the EA4.

How about a camping diffuser:





The diffuser cone stay put even if you turn the light upside down.

Or, a poor man's filter: 





They are interchangeable. Lot's of light still produce up front coz the filters is on the lighter shade.


----------



## Slazmo

My M21 diffuser showed up and its perfect! Gotto say $10 inc postage was a small price to pay for such a great little 'great quality' piece of rubber and plastic!


----------



## Spy

Hi all, What batteries do Nitecore recommend/allow for the EA4 ither than alkalines ? For example NiMh, Lithium Primary etc ?


----------



## Spy

Spy said:


> Hi all, What batteries do Nitecore recommend/allow for the EA4 ither than alkalines ? For example NiCd, Lithium Primary etc ?



Also, if NiMh are recommended, what is the max amperage allowed eg 3000mAh ?


----------



## rmteo

Spy said:


> Also, if NiMh are recommended, what is the max amperage allowed eg 3000mAh ?


No limit on capacity.


----------



## elbowtko

__philippe said:


> Check your PM re: (affordable b'day presents for the whole family)...
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> __philippe



Any chance you can send me PM where you can get a EA4 For that price?


----------



## __philippe

elbowtko said:


> Any chance you can send me PM where you can get a EA4 For that price?


Done.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

So, I am hoping somebody with more experience can advise me on this. Despite only using Eneloop batteries, the rubber cover has swollen enough that the little ball that presses the button now freely moves; I can feel it settle into place every time I press it. The light came from Amazon.. I really doubt they will exchange it after all this time. And Nitecore has no obvious RMA or support. Am I up a creek here? I like the light, but the button is already an issue and getting worse.. I certainly feel like i can't rely on the light at this point...


----------



## AFireInside

Amazon's generally got the best support in the business! Never had a single issue with them. 

However if by chance they don't work out nitecore will also let you RMA directly through them. Just use Th e contact us link on their site.


----------



## Mr Floppy

Divine_Madcat said:


> Despite only using Eneloop batteries, the rubber cover has swollen enough that the little ball that presses the button now freely moves



I don't know why Eneloops would be any different to other NiMH? There has to be something that causes the battery to vent and I'm wondering if it's more to do with the heatsink design rather than the ambient temperature. As far as the EA8 teardown shows, there isn't much thermal path taking the heat to the aluminum.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

I guess i could contact them.

As for Nitecore.. i will be blunt. If the company can't openly support their products, and i have to go through a "contact me" page... well, i am not impressed. And from reading from one or two other people, it sounds like if they do offer a return, its to China.. completely unacceptable...


----------



## __philippe

Divine_Madcat said:


> So, I am hoping somebody with more experience can advise me on this. Despite only using Eneloop batteries, the rubber cover has swollen enough that the little ball that presses the button now freely moves; I can feel it settle into place every time I press it....I like the light, but the button is already an issue and getting worse.. I certainly feel like i can't rely on the light at this point...



One more report of the dreaded EA4 "swollen" button cover incident ...

This is getting really worrisome, not to mention detrimental to user's confidence into Nitecore's products reliability.

Will Nitecore *EVER* officially acknowledge there *IS *a specific EA4 defect *AND* provide a definitive structural fix ?
(hopefully more substantial than their former abysmally lame suggestion to "puncture the cover with a needle"...:shakehead)

__philippe


----------



## dc38

__philippe said:


> One more report of the dreaded EA4 "swollen" button cover incident ...
> 
> This is getting really worrisome, not to mention detrimental to user's confidence into Nitecore's products reliability.
> 
> Will Nitecore *EVER* officially acknowledge there *IS *a specific EA4 defect *AND* provide a definitive structural fix ?
> (hopefully more substantial than their former abysmally lame suggestion to "puncture the cover with a needle"...:shakehead)
> 
> __philippe



Add me to the list :/ I'm gonna get in touch with them and see if I get lucky


----------



## kj2

I notified my brother, he has a EA4, that more and more people are running into this problem. Absolutely something to look out for, and Nitecore should look into this.


----------



## moldyoldy

another data point on the question of swelling EA4 power button covers: I left to the other side of the Pond for about 1-1/2 months. When I left, all of my lights had freshly charged cells. That includes each of my 3 EA4s with freshly charged Eneloops (white, maybe 2 use cycles). When I returned, I resumed my usual rotation - the first two EA4s operated normally, at least normally as I understand that condition. However the 3rd EA4 (EA4W), the button cover seemed oddly squishy. It felt lopsided. I looked at it in profile and it was slightly lopsided with one side a bit swollen. hmmm. I unscrewed the cap, the slight swelling disappeared although I heard nothing. The button now operated like the other 2 EA4s. All EA4s were stored in my bedroom with the door shut under coolish conditions. 

speculation: it seems that "newish" Eneloops do outgas just a bit. not sure which part is outgassing. The EA4 power button cover is soft to allow the user to correctly move from level to level. However that cover might be a bit too soft.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

__philippe said:


> One more report of the dreaded EA4 "swollen" button cover incident ...
> 
> This is getting really worrisome, not to mention detrimental to user's confidence into Nitecore's products reliability.
> 
> Will Nitecore *EVER* officially acknowledge there *IS *a specific EA4 defect *AND* provide a definitive structural fix ?
> (hopefully more substantial than their former abysmally lame suggestion to "puncture the cover with a needle"...:shakehead)
> 
> __philippe



Looking at the rubber, poking a hole would do no good, as it looks like the rubberized already stretched ... there isnt any pressure behind the button. They obviously have a bad rubber formulation, and I think it is a matter of time for alot more EA4s...


----------



## __philippe

Sorry if this sounds like a broken record, but an obvious solution to the "swollen switch cover" syndrome would be for the cover to be made of a semi-permeable membrane with the following properties:


Porous enough to let out any gas venting from defective batteries
NOT porous to outside water projection ingress
...probably easier said than done ? 

Any membrane material specialist out there who cares to comment on the feasibility of such an approach ?

__philippe


----------



## Slazmo

So it seems that there are going to be ubermillions of inflated buttons on EA4's all over the globe. Seems that they released the product too fast - the rubber boot needs to be replaced with something much more resistant to inflating, wearing down (heard a few stories now) and ripping.

I think my botton has gotten softer over time - I have put some silicone oil (CRC 808) on it to condition the rubber... Fingers crossed it doesnt do anything in its stored state...


----------



## Showmethelight

Just as a heads up for anyone, I just replaced the glass lens on my EA4 with the 36.7mm glass lens off dx. The sku is 10644, perfect fit, ten lens' for under four bucks. A watch case opener works perfect for getting the bezel off and tightening it down afterward to even tighter than factory thus closing the gap some complain about.


----------



## Slazmo

Showmethelight said:


> A watch case opener works perfect for getting the bezel off and tightening it down afterward to even tighter than factory thus closing the gap some complain about.



Dont over tighten it - there has to be some room for expansion etc. Did you reinstall the plastic shim ring under the bezel?


----------



## Showmethelight

I put the ring back, tightened it to probably just a bit more than hand turn strength and that got the bezel nice and flush. If the glass breaks... Well I did have to buy ten lol


----------



## Slazmo

ha ha 10... Plenty. Would just hate for it to smash and scratch the reflector... That thing is uber polished and you cant even get dust on it as its hard to remove. My lense pen even left marks on it...


----------



## Showmethelight

Yeah the reflector is quite a pain huh, I blew most of the glass particles out (from the original broken lens) with a can of air and tried not to mess with it much as it does pick up finger prints and marks like crazy. I considered lightly running a cotton ball around in there or a q-tip but didnt bother, probably wouldn't have made things any better.


----------



## tatasal

My EA4 is still incoming. Is there an aftermarket product which can substitute for the switch rubber boot?


----------



## Slazmo

I dont think so - however its only a matter of time until some uber smart CPF'r comes up with a solution... Fingers crossed for a GID or clear rubber button boot!!!


----------



## Verndog

Slazmo said:


> I dont think so - however its only a matter of time until some uber smart CPF'r comes up with a solution... Fingers crossed for a GID or clear rubber button boot!!!



Looks like there is to me.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...(cool-white)&p=4111468&viewfull=1#post4111468


----------



## Slazmo

yeh thats the Japanese fella that replaced the blue led's in the switch with red ones and made a custom clear button centre from acrylic. I was thinking along the lines of totally redesigning the button all together as a replacement to the NC problematic button.


----------



## Verndog

Slazmo said:


> yeh thats the Japanese fella that replaced the blue led's in the switch with red ones and made a custom clear button centre from acrylic. I was thinking along the lines of totally redesigning the button all together as a replacement to the NC problematic button.



I doubt that will happen anytime soon. There have only been a handful of reported button problems with many thousands sold. From a business standpoint, the problem likely not severe enough to warrant the new tooling to redesign. The fact they still sell them without revision is evidence this is not a widespread issue.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

And for all those that report, what about those who don't, or don't know where to? I think the fact that we have seen enough to know what the problem is, says it is more widespread .. or at least apt to happen..


----------



## Verndog

Divine_Madcat said:


> And for all those that report, what about those who don't, or don't know where to? I think the fact that we have seen enough to know what the problem is, says it is more widespread .. or at least apt to happen..



IMO there is not a switch problem with the EA4, there is a switch cover material stability issue. It's entirely possible they have already resolved this and we cannot detect the difference. As far as how many out there, clearly way more then the 5-6+ reported here, but still a small fraction of sales IMO. Not downplaying those that had problems, just being realistic as what I may expect most reputable companies to do about it.


----------



## Cereal_Killer

Does anyone know why fasttech jacked the price of the EA4 CW up to match the price of the NW version? 

I was going to pick up another CW thinking it would be $46 (after 5% discount code) but when I went there its $53.xx now but the NW one didn't go up any. 

Might as well spend $3 more to buy from an American distributor now.


----------



## Bumble

Cereal_Killer said:


> Does anyone know why fasttech jacked the price of the EA4 CW up to match the price of the NW version?
> 
> I was going to pick up another CW thinking it would be $46 (after 5% discount code) but when I went there its $53.xx now but the NW one didn't go up any.
> 
> Might as well spend $3 more to buy from an American distributor now.



It still is $46 if you use the right coupon.. pm sent bud


----------



## elbowtko

Just bought a new EA4W from fasttech, and was hoping to take this awesome flashlight to some night hikes however I notice what looks like some either poor quality control or poor alignment in the glass lens? Hopefully you guys can help me. I apologize, these aren't the highest quality pictures, but they are the best I can do as I only have my camera phone.

Here you can see there is a crescent shadow created by the light from the flashlight right on the inner part of the silver bezel. 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/astrodarkmatter/Photo0160_zps22297f39.jpg

This is the rim of the outer lens, I can physically FEEL the edge of the raised glass with my finger nails, this can't be felt on the other sides. You can also see the crescent shadow.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/astrodarkmatter/Photo0159_zps95da4e49.jpg

This is an image of light on the rim of the flashlight, clearly there are more light on the very outside around top right of the flashlight than on the bottom left.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/astrodarkmatter/Photo0161_zps71b32dc6.jpg

Should I open up the bezel, try and "realign" the glass lens and put it back (how would I even do that?) Should I call Nitecore and get warranty to replace? Or should I return this all the way to HK and let fasttech take care of this?


Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


----------



## GordoJones88

elbowtko said:


> Should I call Nitecore and get warranty to replace? Or should I return this all the way to HK and let fasttech take care of this?



This is why I think it's best to buy from a local vendor.


----------



## elbowtko

Actually I have found the solution to the problem. Here is the thread.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...rooked-Bezel-etc&highlight=Nitecore+EA4+Bezel

Thanks to slazmo for posting this up.

Apperently there is a thin plastic between the bezel and the glass lens that is designed to protect the metal from contacting glass. This also fixes "crookedness" as this thin plastic washer... isn't exactly uniform shape. I still can't adjust the plastic washer perfectly as to not cast a small shadow, but at least I know the problem. If they just sent me a new plastic washer that is actually uniform in shape like a circle is suppose to be instead of some crooked circle, that would be great.

I'm not too impressed with nitecore, I would have gotten the Sunwayman D40A if they offered it in a neutral white, although I don't have one, it seems like it is the way to go and only costs about ten bucks more.


----------



## RBH

That, and it also allows the local vendor to make a profit. 



GordoJones88 said:


> This is why I think it's best to buy from a local vendor.


----------



## MobileEMP

__philippe said:


> Sorry if this sounds like a broken record, but an obvious solution to the "swollen switch cover" syndrome would be for the cover to be made of a semi-permeable membrane with the following properties:
> 
> 
> Porous enough to let out any gas venting from defective batteries
> NOT porous to outside water projection ingress
> ...probably easier said than done ?
> 
> Any membrane material specialist out there who cares to comment on the feasibility of such an approach ?
> 
> __philippe



I'm not sure about the product's applicability as a rubber switch cover, but I know the technology exists. In the construction industry, I've used a product called Membrain: http://www.certainteed.com/products/insulation/mold-prevention/317391. I have a feeling it wouldn't pass the IPX-8 tests for water resistance though. 


"May it be a light to you in dark places, when all other lights go out."


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Well, i am massively disappointed to report that over a camping trip this weekend, my EA4 failed me completely. The already inflated button completely melted after a few hours in my camping trailer. Didn't get over 90, and my Solarforce L2T, Fenix Tk15, and several regular zip lock bags all performed perfectly, without the slightest hint of melting (mind you, we were IN the trailer, so i know it wasn't silly hot). For those curious about the damage done..

http://imageshack.us/a/img21/4048/rmj3u7xn6jirn2ghay1ycj3.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img547/4121/ifw3aoqp4fqc4rjkjfcj1bb.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img441/3847/4awmjs6j8dndzq1rlwbslto.jpg

I have emailed Nitecore, but unsurprisingly no response. Frankly, as it is, I don't see alot of point in sending it to China. At this point, i think i may well just retire it (unless somebody makes spare caps for it). What a waste...


Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


----------



## chipdouglas

I've just received my new EA4 this morning. It looks like this light take much heat - at least the button can't without getting inflated as a result. What a shame indeed !


----------



## Divine_Madcat

OK.. so it is with a bit of pride that i say... never challenge an engineer (sure, i am only a software engineer, but same thing). 

It took a bit of work, but i managed to disassemble it without destroying anything (perhaps similar to the few times i had to disassemble my SLR lenses for cleaning.. just approach it logically). Once out, looking at it, the design is very simple, and would be simple to fix if i found the right piece. Looking around, i remembered my Defiant 3C torch i have.. not a bad torch, but not waterproof, and serves more as a garage light. Well, looking at it, the switch cover as almost a PERFECT fit. While perhaps 1mm thinner in diameter, it did have a larger base (a nice square shape), which i could use to my advantage.

Here is the boot itself, next to the plastic piece that holds the button plunger:
http://imageshack.us/a/img577/698/nbdstsx7e9slu9le7skpzlf.jpg

And here is the piece sitting on the plunger assembly:
http://imageshack.us/a/img842/9195/lwzx07dvjmj6ucmxjmkp2qs.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img442/3137/eafktgk1n79oiorxuiiuerz.jpg

Honestly.. i could not ask for a better fit short of ordering a new part. Now, since it is about 1mm less in diameter, i wanted to ensure i have good waterproofing. Since it should be waterproof once dry, i put superglue around the entire flat base of the cover, and glued it to the flashlight base. If it works (testing it now...), it should make it fully waterproof just like before. 

Here is the new cover installed:
http://imageshack.us/a/img833/2153/kznipupjm0cw2hwlcmol7sl.jpg

Now, any downsides? Yes.. the thicker plastic used in the new cover totally blocks the voltage light. Then again, given that i am used to none of the other lights in my stable having it, i feel it is literally no loss. I would rather have a non melted cover, compared to the light blinking. The boot is soft enough that i have full functionality.. everything i could do before, i do now. 

If i can answer questions, i will be happy to do so. While i hate that i had to do this (especially at another flashlight), i am happy to have one of my previous favorite lights back. Frankly, the boot material is too thin, and unless they change formulation, EVERYONE is at risk once it heats a bit. I hope people don't deal with it, but it IS a risk...

(PS - i will get better daylight pictures when possible tomorrow).


Your images are oversize, when you post an image please remember Rule #3 

Rule #3 If you post an image in your post, please downsize the image to no larger than 800 x 800 pixels.

*Please resize and repost.* - Thanks Norm


----------



## Mr Floppy

Divine_Madcat said:


> Didn't get over 90, and my Solarforce L2T, Fenix Tk15, and several regular zip lock bags all performed perfectly, without the slightest hint of melting (mind you, we were IN the trailer, so i know it wasn't silly hot).



So I'll stand by my theory that the heat sinking is not adequate enough. It is a thin layer that barely touches the walls. The heat has to go some where and rather than the walls of the light, it builds up inside the chamber where it bulges at the weakest point.


----------



## jak

Divine_Madcat said:


> Well, i am massively disappointed to report that over a camping trip this weekend, my EA4 failed me completely. The already inflated button completely melted after a few hours in my camping trailer. Didn't get over 90, and my Solarforce L2T, Fenix Tk15, and several regular zip lock bags all performed perfectly, without the slightest hint of melting (mind you, we were IN the trailer, so i know it wasn't silly hot). For those curious about the damage done..
> 
> I have emailed Nitecore, but unsurprisingly no response. Frankly, as it is, I don't see alot of point in sending it to China. At this point, i think i may well just retire it (unless somebody makes spare caps for it). What a waste...



What kind of batteries did you have in it? I had XX Eneloops when mine bubbled. I wonder if they vent or something when it gets hot.
I can't help but to think that it takes a bit more than hot air to get that thing to expand so much. I could be wrong though.


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Mr Floppy said:


> So I'll stand by my theory that the heat sinking is not adequate enough. It is a thin layer that barely touches the walls. The heat has to go some where and rather than the walls of the light, it builds up inside the chamber where it bulges at the weakest point.



Not sure on your theory, given that this light was not on when the bubbling occurred. AS it is, the materiel warps under the slightest heat.. it is ridiculous..



jak said:


> What kind of batteries did you have in it? I had XX Eneloops when mine bubbled. I wonder if they vent or something when it gets hot.
> I can't help but to think that it takes a bit more than hot air to get that thing to expand so much. I could be wrong though.


Again, looking at the failure, the material stretches when hot.. i don't believe it has anything to do with venting.....


----------



## Verndog

Divine_Madcat said:


> ... AS it is, the materiel warps under the slightest heat.. it is ridiculous..
> Again, looking at the failure, the material stretches when hot.. i don't believe it has anything to do with venting.....



Heat would make it sag / melt / warp but will not make it balloon. That takes pressure, and even Nitecore agreed the lack of venting thru button is primary cause. 
My light gets way hotter while running on high then many with the problem report, and no issues with switch on either of mine. A little pressure build up from venting (you may not even detect from cells), and the heat makes the switch cover have memory to hold the bulge shape after cooling.

Has to be IMO.


----------



## Mr Floppy

Divine_Madcat said:


> Not sure on your theory, given that this light was not on when the bubbling occurred. AS it is, the materiel warps under the slightest heat.. it is ridiculous..



Sorry, I left out a lot in that statement above. I don't think it would be heat that directly causes the ballooning. As most people have said, the most likely cause is pressure, and that pressure can pretty much only come from the batteries venting. What causes the batteries to vent however could be heat in my theory. The light doesn't have to be on at the time of venting but if the batteries were raised to a point where a reaction has started, it may accumulate later. Not that I've seen that happen, I've only seen old batteries vent and only during charging when they got hot. Some older batteries when they vent, you can see traces of electrolyte or something which is a rusty orange colour.


----------



## macgyver35

We could debate this, but until someone is willing to sacrifice another couple few EA4's for the purpose of determining the root cause, it's all speculation. I agree that it has to be pressure that causes the button to bulge, combined with the thin nature of the button itself. Surprisingly, it wouldn't take much of a pressure increase to cause this. The pressure could be caused by air trapped inside the mechanism heating up and expanding, or by venting of the batteries. In my case, the light was off, in it's holster on the passenger seat of my Cherokee for about an hour on an 85 degree day, and I had primaries in it. It had never biulged with before either using primaries or rechargeables, so I'm inclined to think it's just trapped air expanding.

I suppose the larger issue is that I don't feel that Nitecore could have possibly tested this light very well in real or simulated real-world conditions without realizing this would be a common problem. Further, none of my other lights (60+) from the most expensive Fenix and Quarks to the cheapest DX lights I own have ever had a switch deform or melt for any reason. I have an $80 Fenix 2AA and a $18 DX Uniquefire 18650 light that stay in my Jeep all the time, have been there for years, and work just fine.

Lastly, I made a post about the issue on Nitecore's Facebook page and the response I got was dismissive at best. They are busy all the time making posts about users 'liking" their page and asking them sharing stories about how great their Nitecore lights are. Just wish they'd step up and do something for those of us who shelled out ~$60 for a light that, literally, can't take the heat. For me, this is not unlike another of my favorite lights, my original piston switch Nitecore D10, having a cracked lens and I can't seem to get a proper replacement to save my life.


----------



## macgyver35

Guys,

I just posted a write-up on disassembly and repair of the switch at the following link. Hope it helps.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...air-Write-Up&p=4225214&viewfull=1#post4225214


----------



## markr6

I just swapped a light with another CPF member for an EA4. I typically don’t like cool whites, but I was curious and thought it was a good trade. I really like the tint for a cool white; it’s not your typical blue, pale, flat look.

I immediately noticed a difference in the button. The one I just got has an audible “click” when fully pressed. It also appears to be made of a softer, thinner rubber material that sticks out a bit further. My EA4W switch is more flush and makes no sound when pressed. I can see how this new one may be subject to the “ballooning” problem. Who knows?

One nice thing about the new one is the quick blue flash on the switch, compared to the old 1 second blink that uses more standby power.

Overall, I’m happy to have another EA4. It really is a great light even though I usually prefer single 18650 lights for this type of output.


----------



## Cereal_Killer

I'm not sure if there's been previous talk of it in the past 42 pages but is anyone doing other tint of XM-L or even XM-L2 emitter swaps? I know I would give up quite a bit of lumens but I'm seriously thinking about swapping in a 3200k 90cri XM-L2 (S6 7A2). A 20mm star will more than fit (I can't re-flow so I can't re-use the factory PCB)

Ive had mine all apart, that's the easy part, will I encounter any other problems?


----------



## r-ice

well mine died today too, balloon switch and gunk all inside the light


----------



## Lite_me

r-ice said:


> well mine died today too, balloon switch and gunk all inside the light


Was it somewhere in the heat? Like in a parked car or something? Bummer..


----------



## mikekoz

r-ice said:


> well mine died today too, balloon switch and gunk all inside the light



Sorry to hear that. What kind of gunk is in your light? Did you have batteries leak in it?


----------



## markr6

I keep forgetting to do another test, but I now have the "original" EA4 and "new" EA4. I think I'll leave both in my car sometime this week since it's 92° and sunny today, 93° and sunny tomorrow, and 94° Friday  We'll see what happens!


----------



## r-ice

So I bought a nitecore ea4, It's a great light except for the horrible button switch as it is very touchy. The thing will turn on if you breathe on it. Anyways I generally Keep it in my duty bag as a backup light. It must of turned on during this heatwave and went kaput. The batteries are duracell I believe.


----------



## Verndog

r-ice said:


> So I bought a nitecore ea4, It's a great light except for the horrible button switch as it is very touchy. The thing will turn on if you breathe on it. Anyways I generally Keep it in my duty bag as a backup light. It must of turned on during this heatwave and went kaput. The batteries are duracell I believe.



Sorry about the meltdown...but your pictures prove the venting / pressure and ballooning issue 100%. At least in your case it's pretty obvious.


----------



## Mr Floppy

Verndog said:


> At least in your case it's pretty obvious.


At least two of those batteries show bulge. I can't tell if the other two with the negative showing are bulging but having two bulging batteries, you would have to be rather suspicious if all four had it. I really can't believe it's just ambient temperature causing this. Something would have brought the batteries to the point of failure, surely. No reports that I know about the EA8 having venting batteries ... extra thermal mass?


----------



## markr6

Sorry to see that r-ice. I currently have both of my EA4s in my Jeep, cooking in the parking lot at work. 93° and sunny today! We'll see what happens.

Question for everyone - should I take the batteries out to test and see if there may be an issue solely in the rubber switch? Or have we agreed it is caused by the batteries?


----------



## __philippe

markr6 said:


> ...Question for everyone - should I take the batteries out to test and see if there may be an issue solely in the rubber switch? Or *have we agreed it is caused by the batteries*?



It's probably caused by a combination of faulty batteries venting gas *AND* defective switch cover material selection.
The switch cover is the weakest outlet for gas to escape in case of battery venting; it should have been designed
to mitigate such a catastrophic event, that is be made of a material porous to gas.

__philippe


----------



## markr6

Well, I'm happy to say my EA4 switch covers survived the inferno of my Jeep in the parking lot yesterday.

It reached 98°F, from a start of 77° at 8AM, so these definitely cooked for a while reaching 90° by noon. I didn't put a thermometer inside, but it was rediculously hot as you can imagine. I left them on the center console, which even had direct sunlight for about 3 hours. Standard Eneloops in one, Eneloop XX in the other. The flashlight bodies were very hot, almost too hold to hold.

The EA4 on the left is the "new" version with a slicker, softer, less recessed switch. Yoy may notice my original switch on the right is more flush to the body. No indication of any ballooning


----------



## __philippe

A round of applause to _*Markr6*_ for his fearless temperature tests !.... :thumbsup:

Would you care publishing the respective *serial #* of your two EA4 guinea-pigs, as a reference point for the benefit of current owners ?

Cheers,

__philippe

BTW, quick-acting antidote against acute imperial-units allergy...: 
77 ºF = 25 ºC
90 ºF = 32 ºC
98 ºF = 37 ºC
122ºF = 50ºC
131ºF = 55ºC


----------



## markr6

__philippe said:


> A round of applause to _*Markr6*_ for his fearless temperature tests !.... :thumbsup:
> 
> Would you care publishing the respective *serial #* of your two EA4 guinea-pigs, as a reference point for the benefit of current owners ?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> __philippe



Sure, I'll post them tonight (or tomorrow if I get distracted after work). Come to think of it, I don't recall seeing serial numbers on these...I guess I never looked very close though.


----------



## Dirtbasher

markr6 said:


> Well, I'm happy to say my EA4 switch covers survived the inferno of my Jeep in the parking lot yesterday.
> 
> It reached 98°F, from a start of 77° at 8AM, so these definitely cooked for a while reaching 90° by noon. I didn't put a thermometer inside, but it was rediculously hot as you can imagine. I left them on the center console, which even had direct sunlight for about 3 hours. Standard Eneloops in one, Eneloop XX in the other. The flashlight bodies were very hot, almost too hold to hold.
> 
> The EA4 on the left is the "new" version with a slicker, softer, less recessed switch. Yoy may notice my original switch on the right is more flush to the body. No indication of any ballooning



Umm, 98F or 37C isn't that hot inside a car?, I measured 40C with the EA4 running on high /turbo?


----------



## JohnSmith

98F is the outside temperature. It will be far hotter inside the vehicle.


----------



## Dirtbasher

JohnSmith said:


> 98F is the outside temperature. It will be far hotter inside the vehicle.



True, 
was under the illusion it was measuring inside like my car, so then we can assume its +55C inside, which again isn't that hot, so if the damn switch is melting at +50 , it's a sure fact of poor design but typically Asian they won't admit to failure!


----------



## markr6

Dirtbasher said:


> True,
> was under the illusion it was measuring inside like my car, so then we can assume its +55C inside, which again isn't that hot, so if the damn switch is melting at +50 , it's a sure fact of poor design but typically Asian they won't admit to failure!



55°C is "hot" to humans, but shouldn't spontaneously melt or balloon a rubber switch...that's what we're trying to determine. Like someone said in an earlier post, a cheap plastic shopping bag or switch on a cheap $0.99 light doesn't melt or distort, so why the EA4? Likely a combination of battery venting and softened rubber.

If you are still convinced that 55°C isn't hot, you have to consider the pressure built up inside the battery compartment, as little as it may be. A flashlight coming from a cool home into a warm environment may be the cause?

I mainly did this test just to see if the rubber is as bad as some make it out to be. If I had any problems from this simple test I would have been very discouraged. I'm still convinced the ballooning was caused by bad batteries, user error (I don't know what kind), or extraordinary circumstances (unlucky user purchased 1 bad sample out of 1000)


----------



## r-ice

markr6 said:


> Well, I'm happy to say my EA4 switch covers survived the inferno of my Jeep in the parking lot yesterday.
> 
> It reached 98°F, from a start of 77° at 8AM, so these definitely cooked for a while reaching 90° by noon. I didn't put a thermometer inside, but it was rediculously hot as you can imagine. I left them on the center console, which even had direct sunlight for about 3 hours. Standard Eneloops in one, Eneloop XX in the other. The flashlight bodies were very hot, almost too hold to hold.
> 
> The EA4 on the left is the "new" version with a slicker, softer, less recessed switch. Yoy may notice my original switch on the right is more flush to the body. No indication of any ballooning



Did you leave the light on during this test?


----------



## markr6

__philippe said:


> Would you care publishing the respective *serial #* of your two EA4 guinea-pigs, as a reference point for the benefit of current owners ?



EA4 on left (new version): 3020183520346
EA4 on right (old version): 2120383540031

And the lights were left OFF while sitting in the car.


----------



## __philippe

Thanks for the serial #, Mark.

My own EA4W sports two serial # in a row, each 12+1digit, thus: 20112011xxxx.8 20122045xxxx.8

Do not really know what can be inferred from my model serial # compared to yours, besides its presumed rank in the chronological manufacture order. 
My EA4W is definitely anterior to either of your units, provided the manufacturer is not playing game and just assigning serial # at random...

What is the likelihood a given model will include original vs redesigned switch cover material ?
What is the likelihood a redesign was even implemented at all since production began ?

Only Nitecore engineering department knows....and won't tell...

__philippe


----------



## Showmethelight

__philippe said:


> Thanks for the serial #, Mark.
> 
> My own EA4W sports two serial # in a row, each 12+1digit, thus: 20112011xxxx.8 20122045xxxx.8
> 
> __philippe


 Those are the patent pending numbers, the serial number is on the opposite side of the switch.


----------



## __philippe

Ooops....thanks for pointing out that silly blunder....

Had to use a magnifier to decipher the actual (tiny) _*13-digit serial #*_, dimly engraved _*alongside the EA4 body perimeter 
*_(opposite the switch) : 3012xxxxxxx14 

That places my EA4 production date somewhere in between Mark's "new" and "old" test units.



markr6 said:


> EA4 on left (new version): 3020183520346
> EA4 on right (old version): 2120383540031



Perhaps the unfortunate victims of the "ballooned switch syndrome" would volunteer their own failed unit serial # as well ? 

__philippe


----------



## Badbeams3

My opinion, these lights should be recalled. Shipping and repair should be free. Or they should simply be replaced. Nitecore needs to consider replacing the switch, perhaps with the same type found on the "Cobra" (EC25). 

Guess the main problem with the rubber switch is it is not airtight/sealed from the body. And thats a huge over site that the end user should not have to pay for.


----------



## __philippe

__philippe said:


> Perhaps the unfortunate victims of the "ballooned switch syndrome" would volunteer their own failed unit serial # as well ? __philippe



From a couple of converging reports : 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...h-Repair-Write-Up&p=4240873&view=#post4240873 post #54-

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?364768-New-Nitecore-SRT3-is-out-BAM!&p=4247163&view=#post4247163 post #68-

I now gather Nitecore did indeed _*quietly modify *_the formulation of their EA4 switch cover material, 
from (inadequate) former TPR (Thermo Plastic Rubber) to newer Silicon Dioxide, likely better at withstanding temperature elevation.

Still not clear to me whether or not the new cover material/switch fixture is porous enough to release internal pressure build-up from accidental batteries venting, **a potential failure event which cannot simply be brushed-aside from any responsible, safety-conscious design**.

In the negative case, we'll have simply swapped melting risk for explosion risk, pick your poison...:shakehead

For current EA4 owners, the overriding concern now is : WHEN did the manufacturer introduce this switch cover change? 

That is : _*as of WHICH serial # ?

*_Nitecore...remember the alternative to "Publish or...?" ...

__philippe


----------



## __philippe

Badbeams3 said:


> ...Guess the main problem with the rubber switch is it_* is not airtight/sealed *_from the body...



Beg to differ, but...the main problem is exactly the opposite :

The EA4 switch cover ballooning incidents are caused precisely because the present switch assembly _*is airtight*_, thereby preventing the safe escape of accidental hydrogen gas released from defective batteries.

Of course, flashlights manufacturers cannot *_*prevent*_* random events due to third-party defective components, but it's indeed their duty 
to **forecast** and *_*mitigate*_* the consequences of such potential catastrophic failures, for instance by designing a fail-safe outlet 
to release the pressure from any accidental internal gas venting.

One likely design to implement this safety measure includes a switch assembly which is _*not completely airtight *_but instead protected by 
a semi-permeable membrane, both porous to internal gas pressure AND impermeable to outside water projections.

Conceivably, another potential venting outlet to consider would be via the head/bezel assembly, 
but that's a whole 'nother can of worms, ...better left sealed and airtight...

__philippe


----------



## Badbeams3

__philippe said:


> Beg to differ, but...the main problem is exactly the opposite :
> 
> The EA4 switch cover ballooning incidents are caused precisely because the present switch assembly _*is airtight*_, thereby preventing the safe escape of accidental hydrogen gas released from defective batteries.
> 
> Of course, flashlights manufacturers cannot *_*prevent*_* random events due to third-party defective components, but it's indeed their duty
> to **forecast** and *_*mitigate*_* the consequences of such potential catastrophic failures, for instance by designing a fail-safe outlet
> to release the pressure from any accidental internal gas venting.
> 
> One likely design to implement this safety measure includes a switch assembly which is _*not completely airtight *_but instead protected by
> a semi-permeable membrane, both porous to internal gas pressure AND impermeable to outside water projections.
> 
> Conceivably, another potential venting outlet to consider would be via the head/bezel assembly,
> but that's a whole 'nother can of worms, ...better left sealed and airtight...
> 
> __philippe



"Guess the main problem with the rubber switch is it is not airtight/sealed *from the body"*.

Other similar lights do not have this issue. I see it as a design failure on the part of Nitecore.


----------



## __philippe

Badbeams3 said:


> "Guess the main problem with the rubber switch is it is not airtight/sealed *from the body"*.


No offense intended, perhaps I did not quite grasp the line of reasoning conveyed by "switch is it is not airtight/sealed from the body"...:thinking:




Badbeams3 said:


> Other similar lights do not have this issue. I see it as a *design failure on the part of Nitecore*.


We are in complete agreement on this crucial point !

Cheers,

__philippe


----------



## Divine_Madcat

Badbeams3 said:


> "Guess the main problem with the rubber switch is it is not airtight/sealed *from the body"*.
> 
> Other similar lights do not have this issue. I see it as a design failure on the part of Nitecore.


You are quite right.. there is no seal at all between batteries and the emitter assembly. Heat from the lights will easily get to the batteries, and batteries out gassing vice versa. The idea of a one piece tube is great,but the engineering falls short after that...


----------



## __philippe

Divine_Madcat said:


> You are quite right.. there is no seal at all between batteries and the emitter assembly. _*Heat from the lights will easily get to the batteries, and batteries out gassing vice versa*_. The idea of a one piece tube is great,but the engineering falls short after that...



That's an extremely interesting perspective:

First, excessive emitter-generated heat is transferred to battery compartment, presumably due to inadequate heat transfer conduction between emitter PCB and metal body heat-sink (as profusely documented and illustrated elsewhere), hence cells are venting because their safe operational temperature parameter is exceeded, finally, switch cover starts ballooning / melting because inappropriate cover material formulation prevents hot gas pressure generated by cells venting from safely escaping outside.

_*DivineMadcat*_, you may well have nailed the root cause of this bloody nightmare !

(Except, I hear someone whisper, in most cases, the lights were turned off when disaster was noticed ? Well, I'll venture, since the cells venting event is not instantaneous, but rather distributed over some time interval, the above excessive heat accumulation speculation may still hold)

If this proves to be the correct explanation for the "EA4 switch cover ballooning incidents, cells venting events are *not* the *primary* cause of the problem after all, but merely a *side-effect *of Nitecore's overall bad design, specifically *poor heat-sinking *coupled with *failure to provide a safety escape outlet for accidental gas venting.

*Another poke in Nitecore's eye, for a product which looked so nice initially, only to be revealed as an abysmally bad piece of engineering...:shakehead

__philippe


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## Badbeams3

There may be multiple things contributing to it. But if the back of the switch was gooped/coated/sealed with a glue or something that would prevent internal pressure from affecting the rubber, at least much of the problem would be solved. But beyond that I see in another thread the rubber is given to cracking as well. Perhaps a poor grade of rubber is being used in addition to the lack of pressure isolation from the body to switch.

Just don`t know why Nitecore did not stick with the exposed camera type switch found in the tiny monster line and the EC25...


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## __philippe

Badbeams3 said:


> .... But if the back of the switch was gooped/coated/sealed with a glue or something that would prevent internal pressure from affecting the rubber, at least much of the problem would be solved....


Hydrogen gas expansion released by a chemical reaction (precisely what happens during electro-chemical cells venting events) can generate tremendous pressure inside an airtight enclosure, such as a flashlight metallic cylinder.

A safe design blueprint does not really aim to *contain* potential accidental pressure, but instead seeks to *provide a safety outlet *to release this unwanted pressure outside of the cylinder, lest a catastrophic explosion occurs !

_"Sealing the switch with a glue or something to prevent internal pressure from affecting the rubber"_ would only increase the likelihood of such a catastrophic explosion occuring in case of gas venting.

Instead, the switch fixture formulation should be *porous to gas*, to allow pressure release in case of accidental gas venting.

__philippe


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## tatasal

If gas venting is a major contributory factor, I wonder how the 8aa cell TK41 gets rid of it. (or even the EA8 and D40A) Might just be a poor quality rubber switch boot after all? I also have a 4D cell TK70 and never had any similar problem.


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## Badbeams3

__philippe said:


> Hydrogen gas expansion released by a chemical reaction (precisely what happens during electro-chemical cells venting events) can generate tremendous pressure inside an airtight enclosure, such as a flashlight metallic cylinder.
> 
> A safe design blueprint does not really aim to *contain* potential accidental pressure, but instead seeks to *provide a safety outlet *to release this unwanted pressure outside of the cylinder, lest a catastrophic explosion occurs !
> 
> _"Sealing the switch with a glue or something to prevent internal pressure from affecting the rubber"_ would only increase the likelihood of such a catastrophic explosion occuring in case of gas venting.
> 
> Instead, the switch fixture formulation should be *porous to gas*, to allow pressure release in case of accidental gas venting.
> 
> __philippe



Good point! I wonder how other companies are doing it...what mix they are using. Or...maybe the pressure is released around the "O" rings?


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## __philippe

Badbeams3 said:


> Good point! I wonder how other companies are doing it...what mix they are using. Or...maybe the pressure is released around the "O" rings?


I'd wager other companies are better skilled at designing effective heat-sinking to dissipate emitter heat build-up away from the cell compartment, so gas vents caused by extremely high internal temperature are rare (but not entirely unheard of) events indeed.

Other companies are better at selecting and testing appropriate formulation for key components (such as switch covers). 

Other companies are better altogether at including and testing fail-safe design in their products.

__philippe


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## Lite_me

As far as releasing any potential gas buildup in this light, to hopefully protect the switch button rubber, what I did was remove the o-ring at the tailcap and leave the tailcap slightly loose. I'm not worried about rain water getting in there as I'll likely not even use it in the rain. But that's just me. The light still works and any gas should escape out the threads before blowing up the rubber switch cover. It's just a precautionary measure on my part, as I've had no issues to date with the light or switch.


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## Dirtbasher

Out of curiosity , what about other lights that are sealed "IPX8" surely they will be sealed tight hence gassing would be an issue getting past the seals?


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## __philippe

Some one-way, semi-permeable membranes are designed to let gas pressure out, yet blocking water ingress.
This type of uni-directional "safety valve" could conceivably be applied to resolve the cell venting event concern. 

No idea which flashlight manufacturers, if any, have implemented this concept in some of their products.

__philippe


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## __philippe

Lite_me said:


> As far as releasing any potential gas buildup in this light, to hopefully protect the switch button rubber, what I did was *remove the o-ring at the tailcap and leave the tailcap slightly loose*. I'm not worried about rain water getting in there as I'll likely not even use it in the rain. But that's just me. The light still works and any gas should escape out the threads before blowing up the rubber switch cover. It's just a precautionary measure on my part, as I've had no issues to date with the light or switch.



Necessity begets ingenuity !
Wise move indeed, *Lite_me*, thanks for your ingenious tail-end safety tip...:thumbsup:

(Amazing how users have to resort to endless DIY remedial measures to circumvent the drawbacks of manufacturers' ill-conceived products...)

__philippe


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## Mr Floppy

tatasal said:


> If gas venting is a major contributory factor, I wonder how the 8aa cell TK41 gets rid of it. (or even the EA8 and D40A)



probably because the cells don't vent? Batteries when treated well normally don't vent. So something is making them produce more hydrogen than can be recombined for the batteries to vent. Ambient temperature shouldn't be an issue


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## __philippe

Quite so.
Please also consider post #1274 above for some conjectures about an elevated internal temperature event arising in the confined EA4 environment.

__philippe


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## Divine_Madcat

Mr Floppy said:


> probably because the cells don't vent? Batteries when treated well normally don't vent. So something is making them produce more hydrogen than can be recombined for the batteries to vent. Ambient temperature shouldn't be an issue



I will say again, given the totally sealed tube, and the REALLY thin rubber, you don't need a battery venting. 

One thing I noticed in using my light, was that the rubber gradually thinned. It didn't just suddenly balloon overnight; it thined out to where that native air pressure, combined with now easily melting rubber, caused the final failure where it totally melted and deformed ..


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## d123

mikekoz said:


> I put four of those in one of mine and it worked fine, but I did not notice any difference in brightness. Oddly enough, I tried 4 rechargeable NIZN cells in it, which are just over 1.8v from the charger, and the light would not power on at all. It was like it had some sort of protection built in from overloading!



Im a little late to this party  and have just ordered an EA4.

it seems there must have been an update to the light, as before I read through this giant thread I emailed Nitecore about NiZn batteries, and have just got the following response.



> Hi,Thank you for your email.
> 
> EA4 can be used with Ni-Zn AA 1.6v rechageable batteries.
> The normal working voltage is 3--8V
> 
> Any question, please feel free to contact us.
> Best Regards,
> Service Center
> [email protected]
> 
> 
> SYSMAX Industry Co., Ltd.
> Add: Rm1407-08, Glorious Tower, 850 East Dongfeng Road, Guangzhou, Guangdong 510600 China
> Tel: +86 20 8386 2000
> Fax: +86 20 8388 2723
> Web: www.nitecore.com ;


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## d123

The EA4 arrived today and as per the Nitecore email, the light functions perfectly with NiZn batteries.

The serial begins 304178xxxxxxxxxx

The batteries were bought from Maplin in the UK.


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## Ruislip

As the ea4 rivals have been upgraded to XM-L2, is it possibly an indication of a heat problem that the ea4 has not?

Edit: If the rubber boot is very thin, would not the increase in air pressure inside the light when the temperature rises be sufficient to cause this problem? Then there would be no need to consider battery venting?


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## Ruislip

In the Nitecore 2014 catalogue there is no change to the EA4 spec. I was hoping for the XM-L2 emitter, but it looks like it can't handle the heat?


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## RedForest UK

XM-L and XM-L2 will provide effectively the same amount of heat driven at the same currents, maybe a tiny bit less with XM-L2 due to slightly increased efficiency. 

That said, I have swapped an XM-L2 T5 5A into my EA4 and not only is the tint better and beam a bit tighter and throwier but the beam is noticably cleaner too, with a more symmetrical corona and cleaner hotspot which doesn't appear to darken at all towards the centre, unlike with XM-L. 

There was an XM-L2 version sold by Illumination Supply quite a while back but I would really like to see it upgraded permenantly.


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## Ruislip

Looks a nice mod RF. It makes no sense for Nitecore not to do it? I like the light levels of the ea4, compared to the d40a and the gx25a3 which have a larger step between low and high. But am holding off a purchase, may have to go the eax route, we'll see how it goes. It might be one of those purchases that happen after a bit of alcohol has oiled the wheels??


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## qavro

Just to add my 2 cents to the balooning issue.
My EA4W (just arrived) has the serial 3110483540023
The rubber on the switch is quite strong to be honest and even on the first step i find it quite hard to press it accidentally
and no chance to do so in regular use inside the pouch either. I've had one in my hand some time ago which i presume was a previous model.
The rubber on that one was considerably softer and quite easy (too easy) to be pressed for my taste.
Long story short i could't be any happier with mine. Maybe one thing but i can live with it: second step on the push button is not silent  can't have them all though.

Small question though: i suppose mine has the same led like anyone else, right?


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## kj2

Just saw HKe has the EA4 with XM-L2 now.


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## ven

qavro said:


> Just to add my 2 cents to the balooning issue.
> My EA4W (just arrived) has the serial 3110483540023
> 
> 
> Hi gavro,i purchased the "later" version and the rubber switch is not soft from what i have heard on the previous ea4s with issues.To a point it takes some use to the 1/2 press at first due to how stiff and lack of feel,get hang of it eventually but in no way does the button feel the kind of material that will melt easy.
> 
> Oh i am more than made up with it too,cracking little pocket rocket
> 
> serial-3082183520062


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## cullen.salisbury




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## SCEMan

Great light - going on 15 mos. of semi-nightly use without a single glitch :thumbsup:


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## ven

pic,i think you need a nitecore tm light on the other side of the can:twothumbs

Great little light:thumbsup:


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