# EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!



## selfbuilt (Apr 21, 2010)

_*Reviewer's Note: *The P20C2 Mark II and P20A2 Mark II were provided for review by EagleTac. Please see their website for more info._

*Warning: even more pic heavy than usual! *

*Specifications for P20A2/P20C2 Mark II, according to EagleTac:*
_Please see my P20A2/P20C2 review for detailed specs of the original models_
_Please see my T20C2 Mark II review for a comparison to the Tactical version of the P20C2-II_

CREE XP-G Premium R5 emitter (also available with XP-E Q4 Neutral White emitter)
P20A2-II (XP-G R5): Maximum output (OTF): 230 lumen / 60lumen / 15lumen - Runtime 1.5 hrs / 8hrs / 30hrs
P20C2-II (XP-G R5): Maximum output (OTF): 300 lumen / 60lumen / 5lumen - Runtime 1.7 hrs / 13hrs / 180+ hr
Three levels of output activated by twisting the Head/Bezel
Tactical strobe is user enabled, convenient and easily accessible
Crenulated Stainless Steel Bezel
Syntax ultra-clear harden/glass lens with AR coating
Mil-Spec Hard Anodized (Type III)
OP or Smooth Precision Aluminum Reflector
Gold Plated contacts for the best conduction
Engineered for a comfortable grip with aggressive knurling
Tactical Forward click tail-cap, easily activated with gloves
P20A2-II Batteries: Two AA batteries (also compatible with rechargeables or 1.5V lithiums)
P20C2-II Batteries: Two Lithium CR123A batteries (also compatible with two Li-ion rechargeables), 1x Li-ion rechargeable
Kit Options:
Base Model: Stainless Steel Bezel, Diffuser Filter , Spare O-rings, GITD Switch Boot, Black Stainless Steel Pocket Clip, Heavy Duty Nylon Holster w/ Flip, Mil-Spec Para cord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip, User Manual
RGB Kit: Includes everything in base model, plus: Red Filter, Blue Filter and Green Filter
P20A2-II MSRP $75 
P20C2-II MSRP $80 
About six months ago, I reviewed the first generation P20A2/P20C2 “personal” lights from EagleTac. These new Mark II versions are a revised and improved build, similar to the shift from the original T20C2 to the T20C2 Mark II that I reviewed recently. 

For most of the pics below, I will focus on the P20C2-II (the P20A2-II looks much the same, only longer).







By default, the P20A2/P20C2-II come with a stainless steel bezel and a removable black stainless steel clip attached. Included in the package is the manual, warranty card, spare o-rings, extra GITD tailcap boot cover, wrist lanyard, lanyard attachment clip, good quality belt pouch with closing flap and lens diffuser attachment. My samples also came with a rubber tailcap add-on piece to allow tailstanding. 

Optional accessories are the RGB filter kit and weapon kit. Please see my original P20A2/C2 review to see R/G/B blue filters in action. Note that although the bezel ring attachment diameter/threading has changed slightly, the original P20A2/C2 RGB kit still fits on the new Mark II versions (scroll down for additional comments on this).


















From left to right: Duracell AA, EagleTac P20A2 Mark II, original P20A2, P100A2, P10A2, NiteCore D20, 4Sevens Quark AA-2.









From left to right: Surefire CR123A, EagleTac P20C2 MarkII, original P20C2, T100C2 Mark II, T20C2 Mark II, JetBeam Jet-IIII ST, 4Sevens Quark 123-2.

*P20A2-II*: Weight 85.5g, Length 161.7mm x Width 25.8mm (bezel max)
*P20C2-II*: Weight 73.2g, Length 130.1mm x Width 25.8mm (bezel max)
*T20C2-II*: Weight 114.7g, Length 145.7mm x Width 33.5mm (bezel max)

While the external arrangement seems similar, things are quite different when you look under the hood (more on that in a moment)

On the surface, fit and finish remain excellent on my samples. No flaws in the black type-III hard anodizing. Consistent with other EagleTac lights, the knurling on the bezel and tailcap remains fairly aggressive. Identification labels are very sharp and clear, in bright white against the black background.













Screw threads are anodized for head or tailcap lock-out. :thumbsup: Due to the protruding forward clicky, the light cannot tailstand in its default form – but the rubber tailstanding attachment worked well in my testing (introduces some wobble, but I like that it’s easily swappable).

Note that although the lights look similar, the head screw threads are much thicker now on the Mark II, meaning the heads are NOT interchangeable between versions. The threading diameter at the tailcap stays the same, but number of tailcap threads has changed. However, tailcaps from the earlier version are still inter-changeable with the Mk II.

At the bezel, the difference in threading diameter and size is enough that the new Mark II SS bezel cannot screw on to the original P20A2/P20C2 head. However, the original SS bezel can fit on the Mark II head (albeit loosely - it never tightens all the way). But more importantly, the original edition plastic RGB kit and diffuser CAN screw tight on the new Mark II head. :thumbsup: I'm guessing there's more tolerance with the plastic bezels for a snug fit. The key point is that holders of the original RGB kit could still use them on the new Mark II versions. 





_
*UPDATE:* For those of you wondering how to attach the wrist lanyard (above), you first must insert the lanyard clip ring on the tail section of the body, below the o-ring (basically, instead of the clip). You will need to take the o-ring off first to do this, since it is a tight fit. Also, I was lazy in the pic above and didn't take off the clip - but you will need to remove it if you want the tailcap to screw all the way down. It's basically one or the other - the lanyard ring or the clip, not both._










Here’s another major difference – a whole new emitter/pill/reflector assembly, and one that functions as a drop-in module (common to both personal models). oo: Actually, it is literally a screw-in module – which should help with heat transfer away from the pill and to the aluminum body (always a concern with standard drop-ins). You can thus replace the whole pill assembly with other modules, to switch to a different LED or reflector finish.

Here are some shots with the OP reflector module mounted:













The last shot is with the include diffuser bezel attachment screwed on.

The standard cool white version uses the new Cree XP-G emitter, with a R5 output bin (no tint bin reported). Also available from EagleTac is the relatively warm "neutral" XP-E 5A tint with a Q4 output bin. For those of you not familiar with tint bins, please see my Colour tint comparison and the summary LED tint charts found here. 

And now for a comparison to other lights. All lights are on Max on Sanyo eneloop (P20A2-II comparisons) or an AW protected 17670/18650 (P20C2-II comparisons), about 0.5 meters from a white wall. 



























As expected, the OP texturing smooth outs the corona around the hotspot (i.e. hotspot edge is less defined). FYI, in my testing of the T20C2-II, use of the OP reflector module was important to avoid a potential dark void in the center of the smooth reflector’s hotspot. If you have the choice, I strongly recommend you opt for OP.

Of course, there is a flip side to using an OP with an XP-G – throw is considerably reduced from the earlier XR-E Q5 editions.

To help you compare the effects of a diffuser, here’s a comparison of the OP version, taken about 1m from a white wall.










I didn’t retake the RGB filer shots, so please refer back to my original P20A2/P20C2 review for a general idea as to the colors. 

*User Interface*

The P20C2 Mark II has an updated interface, and one that is identical to the new T20C2 mark II. 

Like before for the Personal series, tighten the bezel for Turbo, loosen for General mode. 

Where things change a bit are the "hidden" modes. Like before, there is a low output mode that can be accessed by rapidly switching the head within a sec or so (i.e. a rapid Turbo-General-Turbo, or General-Turbo-General switch). The low setting is not retained if you turn the light off – it will come back on in Turbo or General mode, depending on how you left the head. Interestingly, the light doesn't just jump from one output mode to another – when going down in output, it rapidly ramps down instead.

What’s new is the addition of strobe, beacon and SOS modes that you can cycle through in the same way as the Lo mode (i.e. just keep doing tighten-loosen-tighten switches to cycle through the hidden modes). A very nice upgrade. 

The main complaint with the original P20A2/P20C2 was that strobe was also activated by clicking the tail switch off-on within 3 secs (later reduced to 1 sec). This prohibited momentary signaling. Now, you can enable or lock-out (i.e. remove) this tactical strobe feature by turning the light off-on fifteen times in ten seconds. Very nice to have the option to get rid of it completely! 






Strobe frequency was measured at 9Hz, similar to the previous model lights.






Beacon mode was measure at 2Hz, which is a good slow strobe freq IMO. 

*No PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulation)*

Consistent with other EagleTac lights, I was unable to detect any signs of PWM.  As the runtimes clearly indicate, lower output levels appear to be current-controlled.

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*



















As expected from the beamshots, max throw on these XP-G-equipped lights is lower than the earlier XR-E models. However, Max output has increased measurably. 

One unusual finding – the Lo mode of my P20C2-II was not that much lower than General mode.:thinking: I suspect this is an anomaly, as the P20A2-II was consistent with the earlier lights – as well as the modern T20C2-II.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*



















*Note:* _Effective January 2010, all CR123A runtimes are now performed solely on Titanium Innovations batteries sponsored by BatteryJunction.com. You can compare the generally excellent performance of these CR123A cells relative to the Duracell/Surefire cells used in all my earlier reviews here. I have marked all the new runtimes of lights with Titanium Innovations CR123As on the graphs with an "*". _




























The P20A2/P20C2 Mark II lights are clearly heavily driven on max. Coupled with their R5 output bin emitters, these are the brightest Cree-based lights in their respective classes (along with the T20C2-II). oo:

Regulation and runtime performance is very good at all levels, consistent with a current-controlled circuit. 

*Potential Issues*

Although I have only tested the OP reflector modules, I know from my T20C2 Mark II testing that the Smooth reflector can produce a dark center void in the hotspot. I understand from EagleTac that OP with be new default on future shipping lights. :thumbsup:

Lights use a common drop-in for the emitter/pill/reflector combo, allowing the user to upgrade or swap as needed. However, all drop-ins run the risk of reduced heat transfer to the body of the flashlight. In this case, EagleTac has thoughtfully designed the drop-in to actually screw into the head, which should help with thermal transfer.

The P20C2 Mark II battery tube is only wide enough to take protected 17670, not 18650. If you want to use 18650, you will need to get the Tactical T20C2 Mark II version.

Lo mode on my P20C2 Mark II sample was not as low as expected. :thinking: This is likely a faulty unit, as the T20C2 and P20A2 models were consistent with each other, and across the various build versions.

*General Observations*

As with my review of the T20C2 Mark II, I consider these Mark II versions of the Personal P20A2/P20C2 to be definite improvements over the earlier models.

EagleTac has fixed the main issue with the original T20C2/P20A2/P20C2 (i.e. mandatory tactical strobe mode that prevented momentary signaling). You can now enable or disable this feature at will, which is a great improvement (it is off by default)

They’ve also added a few new features and upgrades, such as the hidden strobe, beacon and SOS modes. Like the Lo mode, these are accessed by a tighten-loosen-tighten switch of the head. Like the T20C2 Mark II, max output has increased significantly, thanks to the new XP-G R5 output bin (which is driven harder than in earlier lights). :thumbsup:

The build has also seen a few significant modifications – most notably, the new common user-replaceable drop-in module design (allowing you to swap emitter/pill/reflector combos). The optional RGB kit from the original T20C2 is still available, and fits the new Mark II.

What hasn’t changed is the overall build quality of the light, which I consider to be very good. It is certainly hard to argue with the value you get here for the price. oo:

Note that the throw of these new XP-G-equipped modules is not as great as the earlier XR-Es on the original builds. EagleTac informs me that they are working on an optional XR-E drop-in for the T20C2-II, but I don't know if they plan to do the same for the P20A2/P20C2-II. :shrug:

More than just a fix of the original P20A2/P20C2, these Mark II versions are significant new additions to their respective classes. Along with the T20C2-II, they are definitely worthy of your consideration.


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## TONY M (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Another smashing review! Way to go Selfbuilt.


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## Gazerbeam (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Great review as always, don't see how you find the time! :twothumbs
Do you ever get a chance to sleep?


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## selfbuilt (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Thanks for the support! 

FYI, I've just updated the review with this pic and text:






_For those of you wondering how to attach the wrist lanyard (above), you first must insert the lanyard clip ring on the tail section of the body, below the o-ring (basically, instead of the clip). You will need to take the o-ring off first to do this, since it is a tight fit. Also, I was lazy in the pic above and didn't take off the clip - but you will need to remove it if you want the tailcap to screw all the way down._


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## KingCanada (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



selfbuilt said:


> CREE XP-G Premium R5 emitter (also available with XP-E Q4 Neutral White emitter)
> P20A2-II: Maximum output (OTF): 190 lumen / 60lumen / 5lumen - Runtime 1.7 hrs / 13hrs / 100+ hr
> P20C2-II: Maximum output (OTF): 230 lumen / 60lumen / 15lumen - Runtime 1.5 hrs / 8hrs / 30hrs



I think your P20A2-II Specs are for the P20C2-II w/XP-E Q4 NW

And your P20C2-II Specs are for the P20A2-II w/XP-G R5.


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## JaguarDave-in-Oz (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I'm intersted in your comment "One unusual finding – the Lo mode of my P20C2-II was not that much lower than General mode. I suspect this is an anomaly, as the P20A2-II was consistent with the earlier lights – as well as the modern T20C2-II.". Maybe yours is faulty. On my P20C2 MkII the low is very low. So low that I find it hard to use outdoors until I've had it on for a while to get my eyes adjusted to the low light. It's level appears to be about half as bright my original model P20C2 "mkI" (despite the markings on my boxes saying the situation is the opposite).

A couple of additional observations if I may - 1. the body may look the same as the original "MkI" model, however the threads are comepletely different and the head won't screw on. They've gone from finer vee threads to coarser square ones. 2. The MkII model is shorter by about an eighth of an inch than the "MkI" model. Difference is on the head length. The stainless bezels don't seem to interchange between models either. 3. The thickness of metal on the rim around the glass lens has increased so it's likely a bit more able to stand a drop on the head end.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



KingCanada said:


> I think your P20A2-II Specs are for the P20C2-II w/XP-E Q4 NW And your P20C2-II Specs are for the P20A2-II w/XP-G R5.


Good catch, on both counts. Just corrected them with the appropriate XP-G R5 specs. 



JaguarDave-in-Oz said:


> I'm intersted in your comment "One unusual finding – the Lo mode of my P20C2-II was not that much lower than General mode. I suspect this is an anomaly, as the P20A2-II was consistent with the earlier lights – as well as the modern T20C2-II.". Maybe yours is faulty. On my P20C2 MkII the low is very low. So low that I find it hard to use outdoors until I've had it on for a while to get my eyes adjusted to the low light. It's level appears to be about half as bright my original model P20C2 "mkI" (despite the markings on my boxes saying the situation is the opposite).


Yes, that is what meant - I suspect my P20C2-II is faulty. My P20A2, P20A2-II, T20C2, T20C2-II OP, T20C2-II SMO, and P20C2 are all much lower on Lo. Although there is some variabilty between them, this P20C2-II is a good 3-4 times brighter than those other 6 lights. I will clarify that comment to make it clear that I think this one specimen is faulty.



> A couple of additional observations if I may - 1. the body may look the same as the original "MkI" model, however the threads are comepletely different and the head won't screw on. They've gone from finer vee threads to coarser square ones. 2. The MkII model is shorter by about an eighth of an inch than the "MkI" model. Difference is on the head length. The stainless bezels don't seem to interchange between models either. 3. The thickness of metal on the rim around the glass lens has increased so it's likely a bit more able to stand a drop on the head end.


Yes, good point about the screw thread changes. 

I will double-check the bezel - thinking back, I'm not sure now if I actually tried threading the old attachements (I clearly remember the T20C2 ones fit both versions, but I may have missed this one). I will double-check and report back.


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## selfbuilt (Apr 21, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



JaguarDave-in-Oz said:


> A couple of additional observations if I may - 1. the body may look the same as the original "MkI" model, however the threads are comepletely different and the head won't screw on. They've gone from finer vee threads to coarser square ones. 2. The MkII model is shorter by about an eighth of an inch than the "MkI" model. Difference is on the head length. The stainless bezels don't seem to interchange between models either. 3. The thickness of metal on the rim around the glass lens has increased so it's likely a bit more able to stand a drop on the head end.


Ok, I've double-checked, and I was correct - the original RGB kit from the first edition P20C2 does indeed fit on the P20C2 Mark II.

As JaquarDave points out, there are threading changes throughout the light (the most prominent being in the head threading). At the bezel, the difference is enough that the new Mark II SS bezel cannot screw on to the original P20C2 head. However, the original SS bezel can fit on the Mark II head (albeit loosely - it never tightens all the way). And the plastic original edition RGB kit and diffuser can indeed screw tight on the new Mark II head (I'm guessing there's more tolerance with the plastic for a snug fit).

The key point is that holders of the original RGB kit could still use them on the new Mark II versions.


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## Surnia (Apr 23, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Wow the drop in lux is surprising, I was not expecting such a significant decrease! Since the neutral dropins are XP-E, would the throw numbers go back up when you use them? 

with the comparison of csshih's review along with yours, his outdoor shots seem to mimic yours, but due to the sheer amount of light coming out, the lack of throw seems to have a minimal effect on how far it can shine.

Thanks for the review Selfbuilt, I was waiting for this review! Sending $10 to your battery fund for your data on the SA2 and the P20s!


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## JaguarDave-in-Oz (Apr 23, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I use both my p20C2's in open country and in normal conditions there's not a huge difference between them in how far you can see though they do it a tad differently. At a distance, I find the MkII to have a much wider and more useable spread of hotspot that allows one to spot things like foxes (and I've tested on owls too) almost as well as well as the earlier model which doesn't cover as much area at longer ranges despite covering just that little bit more distance.

I find myself liking to use the MkII quite often like that.

However - where the earlier model's much more focussed hotspot does come significantly into play is when there's fog, mist, rain or dust even in fairly minor amounts. The "MkI" see's quite a bit further under those conditions and when conditions are like that I'd choose it everytime, it's definately better and it also creates much less of the "wall of illuminated mist" right in front of the user when operating it.


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## Chevy-SS (Apr 23, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Great reviews, thanks!

I recently bought both of these lights (with OP reflectors), and am very happy with them. 

Recent purchases:





-


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## selfbuilt (Apr 23, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



Surnia said:


> Wow the drop in lux is surprising, I was not expecting such a significant decrease!


It's not really as great as it seems. Raw lux is highly misleading, since light decays by an inverse square relationship. As such, you should look at the "throw" numbers in that column (i.e. the square-root of raw lux). Comparing Mk 1 vs Mk II (both OP), the drop in "throw" is only ~13-23% across the range of lights and batteries. That better matches what I see by eye.



JaguarDave-in-Oz said:


> I use both my p20C2's in open country and in normal conditions there's not a huge difference between them in how far you can see though they do it a tad differently. At a distance, I find the MkII to have a much wider and more useable spread of hotspot that allows one to spot things like foxes (and I've tested on owls too) almost as well as well as the earlier model which doesn't cover as much area at longer ranges despite covering just that little bit more distance.
> 
> However - where the earlier model's much more focussed hotspot does come significantly into play is when there's fog, mist, rain or dust even in fairly minor amounts. The "MkI" see's quite a bit further under those conditions and when conditions are like that I'd choose it everytime, it's definately better and it also creates much less of the "wall of illuminated mist" right in front of the user when operating it.


A good summary - that's pretty much exactly what I would have expected. Thanks for sharing!

Personally, I like carrying a general purpose light for regular use (like the new Mk IIs, or other equivalent lights), but have a small thrower in reserve for poor visibility conditions. The Ray D1 is fitting that purpose well for me lately (replaces my old D-mini).


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## selfbuilt (May 5, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Just a  for a review that may have gotten a little lost in the shuffle of new lights. It took me a while to get this one out. 

FYI, I'm finding I enjoy the small size of the P20C2. Although not quite as compact as the 4Sevens Quark or JetBeam Jet-III ST (a long-time favourite of mine in the "compact-but-solid-feeling" 2xCR123A class), it sure does put out a lot of light for its size.

It's true it doesn't throw that far, but I grab throwers when I want to get searching at night. Like the Jet-III ST, it has a nice general purpose beam for working in near quarters.


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## nonanon (May 13, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Please comment on tint and OTF of ET P20C XP-G R5, Quark 123-2 XPG R5 and Fenix PD30 XPG R4 as well as minimum levels.

Thank you


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## Chevy-SS (May 14, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



nonanon said:


> Please comment on tint and OTF of ET P20C XP-G R5, Quark 123-2 XPG R5 and Fenix PD30 XPG R4 as well as minimum levels.
> 
> Thank you



Not sure if you were asking me, but since my pic has all the lights you ask about, I will submit my subjective (not scientific) opinion.

TINTS:
P20 - mostly white (touch of blue)
Quark - mostly white (touch of blue/green)
PD30 - very green

OTF:
P20: ~250 lumens
Quark: ~210 lumens
PD30: ~175 lumens

-


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## selfbuilt (May 14, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



nonanon said:


> Please comment on tint and OTF of ET P20C XP-G R5, Quark 123-2 XPG R5 and Fenix PD30 XPG R4 as well as minimum levels.


:sigh: There really isn't much point in discussing tint of n=1 samples - if the manufacturer doesn't specify a tint bin (and almost no one does), then there is no way to guarantee what you will receive within a defined range (e.g. cool white).

As for min and max "OTF", you just need to compare the relative output values of my lightbox and ceiling bounce numbers to estimate. But I don't have the Quark or Fenix XPG lights to compare (except for the TK12 XPG-R5 and upcoming LD10/LD20 XPG-R4 reviews).


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## nonanon (May 15, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Please forgive a novice ignorance.

Selfbuilt, is there a technical reason why the P20A2 low is 15 lumen using 2 AA, while the P20C can go down to 5 lumen using 2 CR123?


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## jhc37013 (May 17, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Has anyone bought the P20C2 MII XP-E Q4? I already have the XP-G P20 and it's probably my favorite light in it's size but since getting a ZL SC50w I'm on bit of a neutral tint binge, is the Q4 available with the OP reflector or SMO only. What does the XP-E Q4 beam look like in the P20 with a smooth reflector is there a lot of rings?

There is little to know info that I have been able to find on the neutral tint P20 MII so who has one that can comment?


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## lesur (May 23, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Great review. Based on this review as well as a number of others I bought my first expensive flashlight, the Eagletac p20c2 Mk II. I'm really looking forward to receiving it and putting it through its paces.


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## shipwreck (May 25, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



lesur said:


> Great review. Based on this review as well as a number of others I bought my first expensive flashlight, the Eagletac p20c2 Mk II. I'm really looking forward to receiving it and putting it through its paces.



I just ordered one this morning too. Can't wait to get it. Thanks for the review!


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## Toughguy (Jun 1, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I've got my P20C2 MK II SMO for a week and been very impressed with its great looking, well machined and reletively compact size.
I am also very satisfied with the whole lot light it provides. 
I use one UltraFire 17670 1800mAh protected cell and it seems brighter than my T20C2 MK II using one UltraFire 18650 3000mAh cell. But this are just for my samples. I also got P10C and T10C, I do like the design and they are all great lights.


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## kosio_t55 (Jun 1, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



jhc37013 said:


> Has anyone bought the P20C2 MII XP-E Q4? I already have the XP-G P20 and it's probably my favorite light in it's size but since getting a ZL SC50w I'm on bit of a neutral tint binge, is the Q4 available with the OP reflector or SMO only. What does the XP-E Q4 beam look like in the P20 with a smooth reflector is there a lot of rings?
> 
> There is little to know info that I have been able to find on the neutral tint P20 MII so who has one that can comment?


 
Hi there,
A few weeks ago the module of my P20C2 MkII developed a problem (see my thread here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/274058 ), and I decided to buy a neutral module for it, since I was very happy with my Neutral White T20C2 MkII. I have to point out that Nicole from Eagletac has been very kind to resolve the problem with the module! Thanks, Nicole :wave:
Finally, yesterday I managed to take a few pics of the two modules. Unfortunately, my camera does not have enough control over the white balance settings but I tried my best. Here are two pics of the beams - T20C2 MkII NW on the left, P20C2 MkII NW on the right - both with OP reflectors.

 Hu-u-uh, problem, how do I upload the pics? Do I need to upload them on a website first? That would be ... unreasonable, now that I think of it !


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## jhc37013 (Jun 1, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

No problem Kosio don't worry about the pics I already received my Q4 drop-in but thanks anyway. The tint is indeed nice and the throw is pretty good to. 

You do have to upload pics to another site like ImageShack then generate a forum code and paste in your post, 800x800 pixels max.


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## sarguy (Jun 3, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Thanks as always for an awesome review. Is the pocket clip reversible for "head up" carry?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 3, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



sarguy said:


> Thanks as always for an awesome review. Is the pocket clip reversible for "head up" carry?


Afraid not - it isn't reversible (only removable).


----------



## nonanon (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Does anyone have comparison of beam pattern of different reflectors available, for P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5), i.e. OP vs LOP with regards to the 'doughnut hole' that is seen with SMO?

Quote from one dealer's site: 

'*MKII Default Reflector is LOP *(Light Orange Peel) for optimum balance between Throw and Beam quality. (You may select optional Orange Peel Reflector in Shopping Cart for smoother beam pattern)'. Other dealers are not aware that LOP exists.


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## LauraQ (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



selfbuilt said:


> Thanks for the support!
> 
> FYI, I've just updated the review with this pic and text:
> 
> ...



New P20C2 owner here. I've tried this method of putting on the lanyard ring, but when I do this the light will not turn on. Removing the clip and then putting on the lanyard ring works, but I kind of want to keep the clip on there. Any suggestions?

Thanks!


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## shipwreck (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I'm a brand new owner too - I REALLY like the light, though. Blows me away, and I was previously happy with my Inova XO3 and T2-Mp. Now, they don't do anything for me and are retired in favor of the Eagletacs (I also ordered the tactical version over the weekend).

I have the lanyard ring attached, but I removed the clip right away. In your case, it must keep you from tightening the tail cap all the way. Check your o-ring to make sure it is in place.


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## LauraQ (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



shipwreck said:


> I'm a brand new owner too - I REALLY like the light, though. Blows me away, and I was previously happy with my Inova XO3 and T2-Mp. Now, they don't do anything for me and are retired in favor of the Eagletacs (I also ordered the tactical version over the weekend).
> 
> I have the lanyard ring attached, but I removed the clip right away. In your case, it must keep you from tightening the tail cap all the way. Check your o-ring to make sure it is in place.



I think that's what is happening. I cranked it down tight, but still nothing. So, for now, no lanyard ring.


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## shipwreck (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I found I did not like the clip - the lanyard is of much more use to me - although I am using the Inova lanyard - it doesn't have a clip and is smaller and thinner.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



LauraQ said:


> New P20C2 owner here. I've tried this method of putting on the lanyard ring, but when I do this the light will not turn on. Removing the clip and then putting on the lanyard ring works, but I kind of want to keep the clip on there. Any suggestions?
> Thanks!


Hmm, that's odd - works fine on my sample to have both in place. But I guess tolerances vary with the degree the tailcap screws down. :shrug:

Have you tried unscrewing the switch retaining in the tailcap slightly? That may give you the extra clearance you need.

_UPDATE: seems I spoke too soon - my sample won't light up either with both the ring and clip installed. And loosening the switch doesn't help - it is clearly designed to work with only one or the other._


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## LauraQ (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



shipwreck said:


> I found I did not like the clip - the lanyard is of much more use to me - although I am using the Inova lanyard - it doesn't have a clip and is smaller and thinner.



I have removed the clip and I'm trying it just with the lanyard ring and lanyard. Guess I can't have the best of both worlds : ) However, trying this light outside last night...it rocks! Awesome beam! I can't believe that much light comes out of this thing. I've found my new favorite light!


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## LauraQ (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



selfbuilt said:


> Hmm, that's odd - works fine on my sample to have both in place. But I guess tolerances vary with the degree the tailcap screws down. :shrug:
> 
> Have you tried unscrewing the switch retaining in the tailcap slightly? That may give you the extra clearance you need.



Tried it, no go. Oh, well, not a deal breaker for me. I LOVE this light!


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## shipwreck (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



LauraQ said:


> I have removed the clip and I'm trying it just with the lanyard ring and lanyard. Guess I can't have the best of both worlds : ) However, trying this light outside last night...it rocks! Awesome beam! I can't believe that much light comes out of this thing. I've found my new favorite light!



Yes, I am extremely satisfied with the output of it. It is my new EDC. The Tactical version of the light will be in today, and I plan to keep that by the nightstand.

My T2MP at 140 lumens was blinding me when I grabbed it in the middle of the night when I first woke up. I like the 60 lumen mode for by the bed, but the 300 lumen is great for outside.


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## lebox97 (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

NOTE: loosening the switch retaining will cause erratic switching or no switching at all.

Loose switch ring used to be the number one customer problem I saw with the ET line ("erratic switching", "switch not working", etc) until I explained to customer how to tighten the ring as part of their routine maintenance, (this applies to many other light brands as well that uses a retaining ring)

I also now make it a habit to tighten ring before I ship out product.

This is why ET made retaining ring reverse threaded on the new style caps (MKII XP-G Models) - the ring now self-tightens over time rather than loosening due to the friction on ring from body with frequent cap removal/battery replacement. 



selfbuilt said:


> ...
> Have you tried unscrewing the switch retaining in the tailcap slightly?
> That may give you the extra clearance you need.




ummm, sounds like you need to work with the dealer who know their products? :shrug: 

SMO reflector as a dealer "default" is a carry over from the NON XP-G R5 models as they produced maximum LUX/Throw, albeit usually w/ ringy beam.

ET FACTORY Default since day one (and as you noted - my default too) with the XP-G models is LOP as it produces more LUX/Throw and better beam with the XP-G LED's than the SMO reflector does.

:thumbsup:
Tod




nonanon said:


> Does anyone have comparison of beam pattern of different reflectors available, for P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5), i.e. OP vs LOP with regards to the 'doughnut hole' that is seen with SMO?
> 
> Quote from one dealer's site:
> '*MKII Default Reflector is LOP *(Light Orange Peel) for optimum balance between Throw and Beam quality. (You may select optional Orange Peel Reflector in Shopping Cart for smoother beam pattern)'. Other dealers are not aware that LOP exists.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Hmm, just checked, and my P20C2-II doesn't light up with both rings installed. Sorry about that Laura, I thought I had checked that before taking the pic. I'll add a note to the review. The behaviour of your light is perfectly normal. 



lebox97 said:


> NOTE: loosening the switch retaining will cause erratic switching or no switching at all. ... This is why ET made retaining ring reverse threaded on the new style caps (MKII XP-G Models) - the ring now self-tightens over time rather than loosening due to the friction on ring from body with frequent cap removal/battery replacement.


Yes, I agree that it was a good choice to change to a reverse threading design. This is a common complain on most lights, not just eagletac. You frequently see people bashing lights for "breaking" within weeks of purchase here on CPF, when it many cases it is simply the switch retaining ring having worked itself loose. :sigh:

I hope more makers follow Eagletac's lead on reverse treading.


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## shipwreck (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Thanks for the info on the tailcap - although I have the Mk II, so that seems to be a non issue as you report it. I did want to swop to the GITD tailcap cover, and I read the online instructions on how to do it. 

But, I couldn't get the inside to loosen, and I didn't want to force it, so I gave up.


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## was.lost.but.now.found (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

When did you stop including the impressions of Mrs. Selfbuilt?:nana: I always like to hear what non-enthusiasts think.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



was.lost.but.now.found said:


> When did you stop including the impressions of Mrs. Selfbuilt?:nana: I always like to hear what non-enthusiasts think.


Although I didn't inquire in this specific case, I know Mrs. Selfbuilt's general preference in the 2xCR123A class - she likes beefier lights, and so would go for the T20C2-II over the P20C2-II. :devil:

She also likes a simple interface, so the head twist here works. But she can't stand strobe/SOS modes, so probably wouldn't like the chance of accidentally activating it in this series (i.e. repeated tighten-loosen cycles can bring it out accidentally).

She also doesn't like these kinds of pocket clips, and would prefer to take it off and just use the holster for carry.


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## nonanon (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



lebox97 said:


> NOTE: SMO reflector as a dealer "default" is a carry over from the NON XP-G R5 models as they produced maximum LUX/Throw, albeit usually w/ ringy beam.
> 
> ET FACTORY Default since day one (and as you noted - my default too) with the XP-G models is LOP as it produces more LUX/Throw and better beam with the XP-G LED's than the SMO reflector does.
> 
> ...



Tod, my confusion is with the OP reflector. Does it come in two versions? The dealer's site offers a choice of LOP or OP, or are they the same?


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## lebox97 (Jun 11, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I am the dealer of which you speak... (see my sig line)
unless of course someone has borrowed text of my site.

Brief History: several Q5/R2 etc LED light models/brands offer 2 choices of reflectors for easy swap out depending on use - 
*Smooth* (SMO) typically produces an intense center spot/high LUX for maximum throw, but with a ringy beam pattern.
*Orange Peel* (OP) texture typically produces a smoother-nicer beam pattern, but, but typically reduces the hot spot intensity/LUX, and thus is less throwy (typical LUX measurements I have taken - show about 15%+ less throw with OP)

With the new ET MKII XP-G R5 COOL LED's -
there are 3 reflector choices offered by the EagleTac factory.
NOTE: These are not replaceable reflectors, but easily replaceable inexpensive modules which include the reflector. 
*LOP* - (*LIGHT* textured OP) is factory default, and this produces the highest LUX/Throw, and a nice beam.
*OP* - offers a more diffused center spot and nicest beam, but slightly less throw/LUX.
*SMO* - frankly in my opinion offers no benefit with the short and wide 120 degree output from the R5 COOL LED, and, produces a center spot with a darker center (donut hole).

as I have said - "YMMV"
I have read a few posts that stated someone got the SMO reflector with the R5 and love the output, and it throws further (with no mention about comparing it to other reflector choices so how do they know?)

In *MY* experience of personally checking EVERY light I sell - 
*LOP* offers the best output for general use with the R5 COOL LED, and those of us with LUX meters will tell you that the LOP reflector produces more LUX on average than the SMO reflector does with the XP-G R5 COOL LED (due to the darker center).
There can always be an exception I suppose (I have seen a dark donut hole w/ a LOP reflector, but considered this a defect and returned/exchanged it).

Recently a large SWAT/SO Department did a face off - 3 of my LOP T20C2 MKII's Weapon Kit's, against several typical Streamlight/Pelican/Surefire Weapon mounted systems - their response? They "could count fingers at 75 yards distance" w/ the LOP, and have since purchased 50 more of them.

My advice is to order the model with the reflector you think you'd like, and if you don't like it - work with the dealer to replace the module with another one. (it takes 10-15 seconds to swap them out) or worst case for $24-25 +/- buy another module if you want to.
Some people buy a second module with a different tint (NEUTRAL) so they can change out the module for use in different environments (Indoor/Urban COOL, vs Outdoor/Rural NEUTRAL)

The dealer doesn't offer more than 1 module/reflector choice, 
or does not disclose which reflector is THEIR default, 
or says there is only 1 reflector choice? 

Simple - buy the product from somewhere else. 


Tod


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## shipwreck (Jun 11, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I'll give a +1000 to Illumination gear. I ordered a P20C2 Mk II, and I accidentally screwed up the po box #. The post office returned it back to him - but it took about 2 weeks for it to get back to him.

As soon as I realized the problem - he shipped a 2nd one out to me at no extra charge, while he waited for the 1st one to come back to him. I got my light a few days later, and he didn't get his back until a couple of days ago.

I also ordered a T20C2 Mk II from him as well, and it came in on Thur.

Any other Eagletacs I buy will be thru Illumination Gear!


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## selfbuilt (Jun 12, 2010)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



lebox97 said:


> In *MY* experience of personally checking EVERY light I sell -
> *LOP* offers the best output for general use with the R5 COOL LED, and those of us with LUX meters will tell you that the LOP reflector produces more LUX on average than the SMO reflector does with the XP-G R5 COOL LED (due to the darker center).


Yes, that was my experience as well with the smooth and textured reflectors, as reported in my T20C2-II review.

Glad to hear it confirmed by a dealer with more experience.


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## tacgearguy (May 3, 2011)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I love my P20A2 MkII !!!!!!! This review was the reason I bought it!


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## ildiopantofola (Jan 15, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Hi guys,

I was looking for the P20C2 MarkII, I think it is a great light but I didn't get one thing: can I use a 18650 rechargeable li-on battery in it or this kind of cell is only for the tactical version T20C2 MarkII ?? 

Thank you


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## jcalvert (Jan 15, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



ildiopantofola said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I was looking for the P20C2 MarkII, I think it is a great light but I didn't get one thing: can I use a 18650 rechargeable li-on battery in it or this kind of cell is only for the tactical version T20C2 MarkII ??
> 
> Thank you



An 18650 does not fit the P20C2 MKII, however if you prefer rechargeable Li Ion batteries, it will accept 1x 17670, and 2x 16340 (RCR123). If you choose the P20, you won't regret the decision.


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## ildiopantofola (Jan 16, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I see, so the P20C2 mkii has more or less half the runtime of the T20C2 mkii that accepts the 18650.. am I right? if the 17670 is rated 1800mAh and the 18650 is 3000+mAh .... I'm also thinking about the P20A2 mkii because I have a lot of AA NiMh rechargeable batteries but it has less output... do you think the P20C2 mkii is worth the battery and charger cost ?

Thank you again guys


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## jcalvert (Jan 16, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



ildiopantofola said:


> I see, so the P20C2 mkii has more or less half the runtime of the T20C2 mkii that accepts the 18650.. am I right? if the 17670 is rated 1800mAh and the 18650 is 3000+mAh *Assuming the XM-L (C2100 driver) in both models, then "generally speaking", yes* .... I'm also thinking about the P20A2 mkii because I have a lot of AA NiMh rechargeable batteries but it has less output... do you think the P20C2 mkii is worth the battery and charger cost ? *That would be a very personal decision in that if the length of the P20A2 MKII is not an issue, and you already have plenty of AA NiMH batteries, then the P20 would be a wonderful choice, but at ~ half the output on high. If you're not tied to using the AA format, for the same price, you could get the shorter P20C2 MKII, and start out with 3.0V lithium batteries (aka "primaries") as opposed to the investment of rechargeable 3.7V (4.2V fully charged) Li Ion batteries and a charger.
> 
> EagleTac has a new high capacity lithium battery (~1700mAh) w/ **circuit **protection from short circuit and current overflow. Four of those added to an order for the P20C2 MKII would be a cost-effective, initial choice. A**rmed with more education, y**ou could eventually move to rechargeables and a charger. Primaries are always great as back-up to Li Ions or other rechargeable chemistries. Regardless of the type of battery you choose, you are encouraged to read as much as possible about battery safety by going to that CPF sub-forum. *Thank you again guys


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## Websniper (Jan 26, 2012)

I partially based my decision to pickup this light based on this review. Unfortunately, my experience with my new p20c2 has been quite disappointing. 

I posted seperately in the led flashlight forum, but figured this may be a good place to elicit some feedback as well.

One main concern is how slowly the light actually activates after depressing the switch either partially for momentary or fully for constant on. There is a significant delay after the switch is activated until light is generated. Even a co-worker that I showed the light to commented about how slow the activation was after depressing the switch.

Is this common for all ET or this model, or do I have a bum unit?


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## jcalvert (Jan 27, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



Websniper said:


> One main concern is how slowly the light actually activates after depressing the switch either partially for momentary or fully for constant on. There is a significant delay after the switch is activated until light is generated. Even a co-worker that I showed the light to commented about how slow the activation was after depressing the switch.
> 
> Is this common for all ET or this model, or do I have a bum unit?



That is strange and it's certainly an anomaly! Our family has among us, two each of the P20 & T20 and each has always fired-up immediately.

How long is the delay? After ignition, does it otherwise function normally? Could it be the brand of battery?

If requisite troubleshooting excludes the batteries (2x CR123?), the switch (being fully seated & tightened down), the LED module (tightened down w/ reverse threading), then unless someone else can offer something more, I would send it back to the dealer for repair or replacement.

The P20C2 MKII is a great value with its relatively high quality construction, it's compact size for such a powerful light, it's many features, and of course the ability to switch out modules makes the P20 a favorite of mine. I would just exchange it after you have exhausted all advice and efforts at diagnosis. Start over with a new one and you'll be glad you did. Best wishes!


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## Websniper (Jan 27, 2012)

Yeah I love the features the light offers. I have the neutral white pill and I love the tint.

Unfortunately the only batteries I have right now are Streamlight. I use my last two in the light so I'm going to have to order some batteries anyway. I am probably going to get some Rayovac's.

I'm fairly certain the switch, pill, and the head are tightened appropriately on the body, but I will double check today and if that doesn't help I'll be getting a hold of Going Gear.


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## Websniper (Jan 27, 2012)

The delay is not excessive, I would say half a second. Otherwise the light functions normally and I can switch modes no problem.


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## Chevy-SS (Jan 27, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



Websniper said:


> The delay is not excessive, I would say half a second. Otherwise the light functions normally and I can switch modes no problem.




The delay should not be there. I have both of the ET lights in this thread (P20C2 and P20A2). Both of mine are XP-G R5 MkII. They both work great, no delay at all.

A delay would drive me crazy. I would start by cleaning and tightening everything, and trying some different batteries.

Good luck.

-
_
EDIT: - I will add that on my P20C2 I had an issue with some of the internals loosening up. Now that I think about it (if my fuzzy memory serves me correctly), I believe there WAS a delay caused by that...... I suspect you may have same issue. I dis-assembled the light, then carefully re-assembled and problem was gone._

-


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## selfbuilt (Jan 27, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



Websniper said:


> Unfortunately the only batteries I have right now are Streamlight. I use my last two in the light so I'm going to have to order some batteries anyway. I am probably going to get some Rayovac's.
> I'm fairly certain the switch, pill, and the head are tightened appropriately on the body, but I will double check today and if that doesn't help I'll be getting a hold of Going Gear.


I never saw a delay on any of my P20A2/C2 or T20C2 sample (had Mark I and Mark II of all three). Of course, since this is a forward clicky, there's a minimum degree of press required before the light will come on. But there should be no lag once that point is reached. Sounds a like a switch connectivity issue - I would clean and re-tighten the switch internals and body tube, like others have recommended.

FYI, Streamlight batteries perform the same as Rayovacs (in fact, they may be identical and just re-branded). Of course, always a good idea to try a fresh pair of cells when troubleshooting. Good luck!


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## Websniper (Jan 27, 2012)

Gonna grab another set of batts and I have a new tube of nyogel onhand, so I'll tear it down and clean it up tonight.


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## Websniper (Jan 27, 2012)

After cleaning up the threads, the slow response only seems to occur with the head loosened(general mode). Response in Turbo seems almost instantaneous.

Something is off in my opinion. I've initiated contact with GoingGear.

They do suggest checking the retaining ring in the switch, but how do I tighten or even remove this ring(If I wanted to swap out the boot, for example)?


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## Chevy-SS (Jan 28, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



Websniper said:


> ...... how do I tighten or even remove this ring(If I wanted to swap out the boot, for example)?



You would officially use a "spanner" wrench, which you would adjust to sync with the two small holes in the retaining ring. Then simply unscrew (being careful to rotate in proper direction because often times the threads are reversed). I use a small pair of needlenose pliers, and put one end of the nose into each small hole, then carefully remove the ring.

*EDIT - I just checked my P20C2 and there IS some delay when turning light on with loose head. No delay with tight head. Very small delay with loose head, but noticeable. This intrigued me, so I checked my P20A2 and I noticed the same thing!*  :huh:


-


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## Websniper (Jan 28, 2012)

Thanks for that input Chevy. 

I'm hearing several reports of this delay from CPF members.

I'm undecided what I want to do with this light. I'll keep it for sure, but I'm debating if I wanna deal with the hassle of sending it back for a replacement, especially if it behaves similarly. Plus, I am going up to the mountains next weekend and I had hoped to have the light with me. If I RMA it, I doubt it'll be back in time.


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## slickseal (May 23, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

I am a total newb, but how would this compare to the T100C2 Mark II ?
thanks in advance!


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## selfbuilt (May 23, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



slickseal said:


> I am a total newb, but how would this compare to the T100C2 Mark II ?
> thanks in advance!


The T100C2 that I have (which is a Mark II) was directly compared to P20C2 Mark II in this review. Look at the summary tables and runtimes in the first review post. 

Basically, the P20C2-II has higher max output than the T100C2-II (and concurrently, reduced runtime). The T100C2-II has further throw.

If you are having trouble interpreting the runtime graphs, I have a video that will help:



You can see the full list and explanation of these videos in my Selfbuilt's introductory flashlight video primers thread. :wave:


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## slickseal (May 29, 2012)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

thanks!


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## shelm (Mar 21, 2013)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*

Does anyone know if the P20C2 dropin module fits well in the P20A2?
i think i saw a youtube video related to this subject but it was not clearly documented in the clip.


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## LilKevin715 (Mar 21, 2013)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



shelm said:


> Does anyone know if the P20C2 dropin module fits well in the P20A2?
> i think i saw a youtube video related to this subject but it was not clearly documented in the clip.



The P20C2/A2 modules are identical in terms of physical dimensions, the only thing that is different are the drivers used (boost for A2, buck for C2). I'm assuming you want to run a C2 module in a A2 body with 14500's?


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## shelm (Mar 21, 2013)

*Re: EagleTac P20A2 & P20C2 Mark II (XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and more!*



LilKevin715 said:


> run a C2 module in a A2 body with 14500's?



yes sir. 
that was i think demonstrated in the youtube clip.
now with the new XM-L2 this should be much fun!!

thanks for the confirmation


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