# DrafterDan torch, model 12



## DrafterDan (Dec 4, 2018)

I'm experimenting with a new flashlight design. Drawn up some ideas in AutoCAD, but I need to feel how they fit. 

One of the issues I have with my torches is that the OAL of the pill has to be exact. However its position in the head can be modified by o-rings squishing at different rates over time, or different thicknesses of mineral glass. So function of the torch can be spotty sometimes. My idea is to have the pill screw into the battery tube, firmly fixing the ID so it won't change over time.







With any luck, I can get over to the lathe tonight to finish this pill. From there, I've got to modify the body design to accept a fatter section at the head end, without it looking weird. Sometimes it's better for me to just play with the metal, rather than designing it to the Nth degree.


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## Random Dan (Dec 4, 2018)

Looking forward to seeing more


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## staticx57 (Dec 4, 2018)

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with


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## id30209 (Dec 4, 2018)

Subscribed...


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## Thetasigma (Dec 4, 2018)

Hmm, so something similar to this?

Double-male threaded pill, the position of the driver in the battery pack is independent of the position of the components in the head, plus the crystal is sealed around the edge instead of against the face. An o-ring is used a the head joint and the batter pack.


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## DrafterDan (Dec 5, 2018)

Hey Devin, 
Well, that's funny. Actually, I heard somebody tried this, but couldn't remember who it was. So cool! Your work is very clean.
I'm just now getting to the point of being somewhat happy with my threading...

My design is geared towards a 17mm Dragon driver, a MTN triple with secondaries LED & Carclo optics. 

I made more progress last night. Finished the OD of the pill. Need to make a threaded holder so I can make a pocket for the LED board. I think this will end up better than my previous attempts where I just thermal pasted the MPCB onto a flat face.

Blue Dykem!!!
Yes, I have fully embraced threading away from the chuck






Parting off


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## Thetasigma (Dec 5, 2018)

Thanks sir, I'm certainly not the first to use this sort of construction but it seems to be uncommon in customs at least.

Your threading looks fine to me, nice use of Dyekem too. IMO you might have more accurate results making a split bushing to hold your pill over the threading (delrin/acetal for material) rather than trying to get any accurate hold with the threading.

Ah, a popular choice of components right now. For reference my pictures are of a McR-16 reflector inside of 11/16-32 threading and eventually a 12mm FET driver in the 5/8-32 threaded section


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## gadget_lover (Dec 5, 2018)

Yep, that's been done before. The venerable ARC LS had a driver and LED mounted on a threaded heatsink when it was introduced in 2002. I did the same in 2004 for my Slim2 pocket light. I used an aluminum disk for the LED heatsink and the driver was mounted on another. On my light a spring was used as a contact between the driver and LED so that it could be adjusted for best focus during assembly. 







Dan


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## MRsDNF (Dec 6, 2018)

Would a short spring on the driver achieve the same thing but without the hassle?


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## DrafterDan (Dec 6, 2018)

My issue seems to come from the pill not contacting the battery tube, so the ground path isn't always complete. 

I was under no illusion that I was breaking new ground, it's just the first time I'm using this idea. The reason for the 17mm driver and optics are merely because I have some on hand. Kinda feel like triples with Carclo optics are played out. I do like them, but they are done to death.

I seem to prefer either TIR or reflectors.


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## gadget_lover (Dec 8, 2018)

I was just validating your idea. If you make one based on your design it's likely to be successful. 

Daniel


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## DrafterDan (Dec 11, 2018)

A touch of progress, which lead to discovering the internal threading tool I have has too much flex. It won't do the job cleanly enough. So that means waiting for a stiffer boring bar to come in.

Anyway, here's my video that was apparently shot from an easily distracted lathe operator. Yes, it's hard to run a lathe one-handed while doing accurate work 

https://youtu.be/5lMDfwHyUns


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## gadget_lover (Dec 12, 2018)

That was an interesting video. If you are finding that treading tool has too much chatter, you can reduce the overhang to just a touch more that needed to cut to the depth needed. The shorter the unsupported length, the stiffer it will be.

Dan


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## DrafterDan (Dec 12, 2018)

I wish I could, Gadget. This particular tool has a rebated section that the carbide 60° is brazed onto. So there is no way to choke up on the tool to reduce bending. It's a tool I came across cheaply, and hoped that it would work.

I have a proper 10mm bar type coming in, that is fully supported. It just stinks waiting for parts to arrive so that I can continue


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## MRsDNF (Dec 13, 2018)

Maybe a slower speed and a few spring cuts would help until the new tool arrives.


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## DrafterDan (Dec 13, 2018)

Yeah, I'd thought of that too. I was only advancing .0025" each pass... Maybe my cheap tool is really really cheap

Damn my high expectations and perfectionist leanings


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## Anglepoise (Dec 17, 2018)

DrafterDan said:


> Yeah, I'd thought of that too. I was only advancing .0025" each pass... Maybe my cheap tool is really really cheap
> 
> Damn my high expectations and perfectionist leanings



I am a great believer in slow spindle speed, and solid carbide tools. Check out www.thinbit.com. Division of Kaisser Tool Co. Very worthwhile stuff.


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## DrafterDan (Jan 10, 2019)

Well, a month later and I've got the proper tool.






I did purchase one of the cheapie 10mm internal threading bar from China, but even though the image showed the insert on the RH side, the one they sent was opposite. Just about the time that was going on, this Vardex came up on the used market - blammo! 

Don't believe I'll have any further issues with tool rigidity with this. Looking forward to being able to continue with this project


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## Nitroz (Jan 11, 2019)

DrafterDan said:


> Well, a month later and I've got the proper tool.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Nice!


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## DrafterDan (Jan 29, 2019)

The internal threading bar works great. Progress!





I have the pill properly fitted into the body & head.



Next step is to do final bore for battery, determine length and bore/ thread for McClicky.
Then the fun part, finalizing the external shape.


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## id30209 (Jan 29, 2019)

Which battery size you have in mind Dan?
Great work BTW


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## DrafterDan (Feb 4, 2019)

Some progress, some setbacks. Seems like this is the path on this build. Have the 18350 battery tube internals finalized, and worked on the head. 
I decided to do a removable bezel, because apparently I like to make things difficult on myself. 
Mental note: when ID threading, make sure the bezel is firmly held by the chuck, or it will just unscrew from the body....







I left a good amount of threads, so I can determine just how deep the bezel cap will be. Ideally, not too inset to the face of the glass. I'll have a lens over the Carclo optics. I'll finish up the head next, and then do do a similar tailcap treatment. I liked how the Version 11 torch came out, so this will have probably brass on both ends.

HE v11 torch tailcap. A bit too deep, but it worked out well overall.


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## tech25 (Feb 4, 2019)

Looks great!


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## id30209 (Feb 4, 2019)

Well Dan, your light looks like it came from LM office.
Love the design! Can’t waot for the update🤙🤙


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## DrafterDan (Feb 11, 2019)

Finished up the torch over the weekend. Still fiddling with the programming on the Dragon, but it's plenty bright and feels pretty good in the hand. Overall length is a bit less than 4" / 100mm.
















I tried something a bit different. Set the mill at -15°, so the crenelations angle towards the lens. 





I ran the final passes with the torch assembled, so it was as smooth as possible.








I do feel a bit funny posting those lathe shots, since Tim M posted some wip shots on flashlight fanatics' facebook page. The lathe I use ain't pretty


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## peter yetman (Feb 11, 2019)

It's not how pretty it is, it's what you do with it that counts.
Nice torch.
P


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## Anglepoise (Feb 11, 2019)

Keep the posts coming. I always do a final pass with everything assembled. The parting line almost disappears. Also you can turn a groove on the parting line , and it disappears completely.


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## MRsDNF (Feb 18, 2019)

Looking Good Dan. A used lathe is a good lathe.


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## Nitroz (Feb 18, 2019)

DrafterDan said:


> Some progress, some setbacks. Seems like this is the path on this build. Have the 18350 battery tube internals finalized, and worked on the head.
> I decided to do a removable bezel, because apparently I like to make things difficult on myself.
> Mental note: when ID threading, make sure the bezel is firmly held by the chuck, or it will just unscrew from the body....
> 
> ...



Hey! we learn as we go.

The light looks great!

I am working on a new module for an L5 and ended up reducing the OD to much and cut the top part off that would attach to the bottom of the L5. Doh! So now I have to make it again.


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## DrafterDan (Feb 22, 2019)

Nitroz said:


> I am working on a new module for an L5 and ended up reducing the OD to much and cut the top part off that would attach to the bottom of the L5. Doh! So now I have to make it again.



Yup, done that as well. my version was cutting a flat after some internal threading, and cut the tailcap section off the body...


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## nbp (Nov 4, 2019)

I’m surprised I never saw this thread before. I hunted it down after seeing a pic of Model 12 posted in Nitroz’ thread. I really like the look of this light! I’ve grown to appreciate bare metal lights since I think they age more gracefully and I do favor 18350 powered triples, even if they are a bit ubiquitous right now. McG clips are the bomb and that brass cren bezel ring is really classy. Are you building these for people or is it just a personal project?


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## DrafterDan (Nov 7, 2019)

Thanks much nbp, I appreciate the kind words. 
My life has been chaotic this year, job/ marriage/ house are all changing in a big way. I've not spent any real time at the lathe since early this year. I did like how this torch came out, but want to change things (as always). 
The brass bezel was fun to to, but I want to make the threads much smaller, like 32tpi so that it doesn't have to be so deep. Interestingly enough, even though it's about a third of an inch deep, it seems to have no effect on the beam. 
Plus, it turned out a bit too thick. I wanted some deep grooving, but I bet the same effect can be achieved with thinner walls. 

This has been personal torches, I have sold some, but it's mostly for my own experience.
I've a chunk of aluminum bronze left, thinking about making a 14500 sized torch next.


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## Nitroz (Nov 7, 2019)

Even though the bezel is thick I think that is one nice looking light!

I have plans one day to make my own light but with so many mods for Surefire lights and others, plus like you family, life, and home all seem to eat up every free minute. I am trying to bring my youngest son into the workshop to get him up to speed so he can help me manage all the request.


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## nbp (Nov 7, 2019)

Thanks for the update DrafterDan. I definitely understand. Real life has to take precedence, and sometimes it saps some of the fun if a hobby becomes too much like a job. In any case, that’s a great project you put together and if you need some “testers” down the road, let me know.


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