# Surefire G2 not waterproof?



## ambientmind (Jul 8, 2008)

I decided to take a swim in the 110+ degree heat here in Phoenix today, and brought my brand new G2 Tan with me for fun. It never went deeper than six feet, and I never turned it on or off in the water. Its totally stock except I put a P60L in it. After about 5 minutes it started fading in and out, so I took it out of the pool and disassembled it. I didnt really see any water it it, but it would flicker whenever I rotated the tailcap. The threads seems to have enough lube from surefire, so I'm not sure what happened. Anyone else have this problem? I thought all surefires weresupposed to be waterproof to 30ft.


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## kramer5150 (Jul 8, 2008)

Only the 6PN is advertised as such, and even then, its not made to be twisted on/off submersed. FWIW I dropped my 6P in about 3 feet of water for 10 minutes and it survived.


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

They're all supossed to be water resistant to 30 feet. I notice that Surefire's lube is a little bit runny here in the valley though. I'd use a heavier silicone grease, available at Ace, Lowes, and Home Depot. It's far more heavy and doesn't run out of the threads at 115 degrees or worse yet, car interior temperatures.


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## Size15's (Jul 8, 2008)

SureFires are not rated waterproof [to 30 feet, or any depth] as standard.

The G2 is perhaps the least watertight model and I doubt SureFire would entertain testing it and rating it rather than another, all metal model due to how easily the TailCap rotates. We are unlikely to see a "G2N" rated waterproof version then.
In my opinion this is a perfect example for a fatter o-ring to achieve a tighter seal.

Good news is that SureFire considered this eventuality and the G2 and P60L are designed to be able to be carefully and slowly dried and both should function well again afterwards.
By slowly I mean the product disassembled in a warm, dry location for several days.


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## Crenshaw (Jul 8, 2008)

Size15's said:


> SureFires are not rated waterproof [to 30 feet, or any depth] as standard.



:thinking:

UPDATE: Surefire has affirmed that all current Surefire lights should be waterproof to about 33 feet/10 meters. Some reviews were posted before Surefire made the affirmation that their lights were watertight to 1 atmosphere depth. Any new Surefire lights you purchase now should be considered waterproof to 33 feet/10 meters.

source: http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/surefire_g2.htm

IPX8 means it should survive underwater, at least past 1m

and something like the above at flashlight reviews would not be written lightly

Crenshaw


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

I guess I was passing on hearsay from somewhere without realizing it. I wish I could find the thread that was discussing the water resistance of Surefire lights....:thinking:


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## Size15's (Jul 8, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> :thinking:
> 
> UPDATE: Surefire has affirmed that all current Surefire lights should be waterproof to about 33 feet/10 meters. Some reviews were posted before Surefire made the affirmation that their lights were watertight to 1 atmosphere depth. Any new Surefire lights you purchase now should be considered waterproof to 33 feet/10 meters.
> 
> ...


You guys know I'm a SureFire fan right?
Waterproof ratings are complicated and they do not use the term lightly. SureFire's product range is complicated and diverse. The Nitrolon models are a bread apart in my view.
I can't see SureFire confirming that statement. It was made some time ago I believe.
Nor can I see them confirming that they consider the G2 specifically waterproof to 10 metres.

I'm almost certain that it's a fluke when a G2 does not leak, not the other way around as I consider to be the case with the aluminium models.


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

Thanks Crenshaw. That sounds familiar but I'm wondering who affirmed that info. I can't find it at Surefire.



Al, doesn't the "N" designation on some of Surefire's lights indicate Navy and therefore have been rated to a predetermined depth?


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## Crenshaw (Jul 8, 2008)

Size15's said:


> You guys know I'm a SureFire fan right?



No.....really? :nana:

Not questioning your knowledge Al, no question that it far exceeds mine, indeed, probably exceeds just about anyone else's surefire knowledge here.:thumbsup:

but it does beg to question, what is flashlight reviews talking about then?:shrug:


Patriot36, indeed, the surefire site says nothing about waterproofness. Only "weather proof" vague much?

Crenshaw


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

In any case, I don't think the OP's light should have leaked at 6 feet or less, unless he was mad dogging the tail cap back and forth tens of times. Maybe the o-ring was a little bit flat from sitting in the package or maybe the it just needs a heavier lube or an oversized o-ring if he plans on doing more swimming with it. My personal opinion is that the leak was a fluke but now I'm really curious and want to test mine, with and without preparation.


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## stitch_paradox (Jul 8, 2008)

double post


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## stitch_paradox (Jul 8, 2008)

There was a post here recently regarding under water testing of lights. One was the 6P and the tester called Surefire to ask if its rated for under water and the answer is that they're not.







Crenshaw said:


> :thinking:
> 
> UPDATE: Surefire has affirmed that all current Surefire lights should be waterproof to about 33 feet/10 meters. Some reviews were posted before Surefire made the affirmation that their lights were watertight to 1 atmosphere depth. Any new Surefire lights you purchase now should be considered waterproof to 33 feet/10 meters.
> 
> ...



Crenshaw you might wanna check your infos first before posting? Have you called Surefire? I did and I got the same response as this post #28


climberkid said:


> with the 6P, im on the phone with surefire right this second and they said that the 6p isnt even rated for any water pressure. he said it can take some rain on it but shouldnt be taken under water.... oops! (ordering some new o-rings for it, just in case)
> 
> UPDATE: 6P with R2 is messing up. need to use some de-ox.



If 6P is not rated for underwater I highy doubt that G2 would be rated.


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## Monocrom (Jul 8, 2008)

A 5/8" O-ring can be used to take up the gap between the body and tailcap of a G2. But you have to use a thicker O-ring. One that's designed for plumbing fixtures.

Will it make the G2 waterproof?.... Not likely. But it could help a bit.


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## ambientmind (Jul 8, 2008)

thanks for all the answers here! i didnt turn it on or off in the water, i twisted the tailcap on, then submerged it, then turned it off out of the water and after blowing all the drops off of the tailcap area. so theres no chance it was from misuse underwater. I would think 6 feet would be ok, and thats pushing it. Now that I think of it, it couldnt have been more that 4-5 feet which is very little pressure. I have some of the heavy silicone lube, I'll try that and retest. Its sitting dissembled right now to dry. Like I said, it still worked, but was flickering and fading in out out very strangely. I can see the factory lube on the threads, so I know its there, and both o-rings are nice and round.


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## Size15's (Jul 8, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> Al, doesn't the "N" designation on some of Surefire's lights indicate Navy and therefore have been rated to a predetermined depth?


Each individual "N-Certified" SureFire has been individually prepared and tested sufficiently to be 'granted' a waterproof certification to Navy specifications (30 metres). This is covered by a good many CPF threads.

With the exception of the rechargeable flashlights, and the Nitrolon models I believe that SureFires can be considered capable of being tested and rated waterproof. I'm not sure how deep SureFire would be comfortable rating the E-Series and 'modern' models such as the L2/A2/K2 etc, even if they were willing to try (which I doubt they are) but the point is that the majority of SureFires are designed, manufactured and assembled with the aim of being capable of submerging without ingress of water.


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## woodrow (Jul 8, 2008)

In Crenshaw's defense I thought all Surefire lights were waterproof to 30 feet because of Quickbeam's review myself. I usually accepted anything Doug said as factual, as I am sure it is 99.9% of the time.

I also remember reading in another thread that a Fenix T series light leaked water when turned on and off at the bottom of a pool.

I would have not expected either a Fenix T series or any Surefire light to be able to take on water in shallow water. Thanks to these threads, I realize that my beliefs were not correct.

There are a couple of cool dive rated 123a lights at Scubatoys.com. I am on my phone so I can't post a link, but the site is worth checking out. 

So, I guess what I have learned is that if I go swimming with a light, it needs to be made to go swimming.

Here is a link to Scubatoys: http://www.scubatoys.com/store/Scuba_Lights.asp?PAGE=3 Of course, Brightguy, Batteryjunction and others also have dive lights. I have the AE W30 from Batteryjunction and am really happy with it. I just thought I would link this page because there are lights outside of the normal Pelican, UK etc. that we normally talk about in waterproof lights.


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## sween1911 (Jul 8, 2008)

I'd definitely say that a Surefire is splash-proof, and can endure the occasional dunk, but I agree that if you PLAN on having it underwater for any period of time, it needs to be a "dive" light - a Uke or Pelican or other light specifically designed to be waterPROOF.


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## scottaw (Jul 8, 2008)

Surefire states "weatherproof" so I would expect to be able to use any of my Surefires in a torrential downpour without fear of water getting inside. (this is only my assumption, nobody knows exactly what they mean) But in my own personal use, the heaviest rain i've ever been out in, no ingress whatsoever on my L1.


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## climberkid (Jul 8, 2008)

with rain i have not had a problem. when i talked to the guy from surefire he said they cant support water pressure. he said that rain would not hurt it, but being under water with pressure could be a mistake.


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## WadeF (Jul 8, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> but it does beg to question, what is flashlight reviews talking about then?:shrug:
> Crenshaw


 
Maybe they got their information from a 3rd party, rather than Surefire, just like you did. :nana:


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## wwglen (Jul 8, 2008)

From Surefire's G2 page:

FEATURES

Rugged, lightweight, corrosion-proof Nitrolon® polymer body coated in Realtree Hardwoods® HD™ camouflage 

*****O-ring sealed, weatherproof*****

Tailcap switch: press for momentary-on, twist for constant-on 
Switch lockout prevents accidental activation during transport or storage 

http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/prrfnbr/878/sesent/00


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## Illum (Jul 8, 2008)

Size15's said:


> I'm almost certain that it's a fluke when a G2 does not leak, not the other way around as I consider to be the case with the aluminium models.


 
wasn't there a navy rated model of some sort? [or was that not nitrolon :thinking: ]


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## Crenshaw (Jul 8, 2008)

Illum_the_nation said:


> wasn't there a navy rated model of some sort? [or was that not nitrolon :thinking: ]



it was the 6PN...

Maybe they did get it from a 3rd party, although, they did say "surefire affirms":shrug:

Crenshaw


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## Size15's (Jul 8, 2008)

Illum_the_nation said:


> wasn't there a navy rated model of some sort? [or was that not nitrolon :thinking: ]


The "Navy" version of the 6P is the 6PN.
There are a number of N-Certified SureFires on the core price list (mostly WeaponLights). SureFire can, for special customers (read: not retail market consumers) N-Certify a variety of their models - usually the Millennium Series such as the M3 (becoming the M3N).

There has never been an N-Certified Nitrolon model such as a G2N that I'm aware of.


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## matt0 (Jul 8, 2008)

Size15's said:


> I'm almost certain that it's a fluke when a G2 does not leak



Does anyone know specifically where the "weak point" is? Is it the rubber boot on the tailcap? or maybe the threads around the tailcap? the retaining ring around he lexan window?


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

stitch_paradox said:


> There was a post here recently regarding under water testing of lights. One was the 6P and the tester called Surefire to ask if its rated for under water and the answer is that they're not.
> 
> Crenshaw you might wanna check your infos first before posting? Have you called Surefire? I did and I got the same response as this post #28





Well, I was also repeating hearsay and was under the same impression that Crenshaw was. Crenshaw probably did check his info "first before posting" but his info was incorrect as was mine. We all know that Surefire's customer service center isn't always consistent with their answers which has also been widely discussed here. For all we know, Doug at Flashlight Reviews called Surefire and they had given him the answer (at one time) which is spelled out in the link on post #5. Maybe as this thread gets more views we'll get more insight as to were some of this info is came from and why many of us are under possibly incorrect assumptions.


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## Tessaiga (Jul 8, 2008)

FWIW, I dropped my Z2 (Aluminium) into a pool less than 5 ft deep and did not even touch the switch at all and water got in all over the inside... :thumbsdow


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## Crenshaw (Jul 8, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> Well, I was also repeating hearsay and was under the same impression that Crenshaw was. Crenshaw probably did check his info "first before posting" but his info was incorrect as was mine. We all know that Surefire's customer service center isn't always consistent with their answers which has also been widely discussed here. For all we know, Doug at Flashlight Reviews called Surefire and they had given him the answer (at one time) which is spelled out in the link on post #5. Maybe as this thread gets more views we'll get more insight as to were some of this info is came from and why many of us are under possibly incorrect assumptions.



thanks for quoting that, i cant see stitch's posts....

I checked my sources as far as i was capable, calling up surefire who is in a 12 hour apart time zone for me is not viable. I for one, would think that they would be abit more firm about what "weather proof" means....an IPXX rating would be nice. Along with LED bins...

Crenshaw


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## Monocrom (Jul 8, 2008)

woodrow said:


> In Crenshaw's defense I thought all Surefire lights were waterproof to 30 feet because of Quickbeam's review myself. I usually accepted anything Doug said as factual, as I am sure it is 99.9% of the time.


 
I've bought lights based on Quickbeam's reviews on his site. Based on the lights I've bought, I ended up agreeing with his recommendations about 50% of the time. I'm not bashing him. It's important to keep in mind that any review will have subjective elements to it. What a reviewer thinks of as a minor disadvantage at time of review, could become a bigger issue later on. Take any review from anyone with a healthy grain of salt.


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## GPB (Jul 8, 2008)

when companies rate stuff for waterproofness it is under absolutely ideal conditions..ie: no movement whatsoever. If you have something submerged a few feet, but then move it, there is considerably more pressure on it than just the water pressure of the depth. That's why when you read the instructions on a watch that is rated to 30 meters they say you can shower or wear it in the rain, but don't recomend swimming with it. For a watch that is "waterproof" to 100m, they say you can swim and snorkel, but not dive with it, even though recreational divers don't go deeper than 50m.


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## kramer5150 (Jul 8, 2008)

I think if nothing else, this thread illustrates why its important to pick a tool suitable for the job. When I dunk-tested my 6P, it was not to really test it as an under-water tool... it was more to show that it is easily splash/rain-proof. No way can a 6P compete with a Pelican, UK, streamlight or other dive-rated light, despite what I want to believe. While some SF lights seem to shed water while submersed, its hit or miss at best, and out of the population some will NOT keep water out as well as others.


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## kramer5150 (Jul 8, 2008)

GPB said:


> when companies rate stuff for waterproofness it is under absolutely ideal conditions..ie: no movement whatsoever. If you have something submerged a few feet, but then move it, there is considerably more pressure on it than just the water pressure of the depth. That's why when you read the instructions on a watch that is rated to 30 meters they say you can shower or wear it in the rain, but don't recomend swimming with it. For a watch that is "waterproof" to 100m, they say you can swim and snorkel, but not dive with it, even though recreational divers don't go deeper than 50m.



This topic is VERY heavily debated on the watch forums. Divers take their under-water timing deadly seriously. FWIW, I didn't move my 6P while it was submersed under ~3 feet of water. I think I got lucky though and may have gotten a "good one" :twothumbs.


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> I've bought lights based on Quickbeam's reviews on his site. Based on the lights I've bought, I ended up agreeing with his recommendations about 50% of the time. I'm not bashing him. It's important to keep in mind that any review will have subjective elements to it. What a reviewer thinks of as a minor disadvantage at time of review, could become a bigger issue later on. Take any review from anyone with a healthy grain of salt.





My guess is that Quickbeam acquired his information from somewhere and the (possible quote) about water resistance wasn't just a subjective sentence.



> *Crenshaw*
> I for one, would think that they would be abit more firm about what "weather proof" means....an IPXX rating would be nice. Along with LED bins...


Oh my goodness....thank you! Sometimes the vagueness surrounding Surefire products is a bit frustrating. As a Surefire enthusiast I don't understand why they couldn't give it an IPXX rating, even if they were conservative about it. If Surefire customer service is telling owners to never submerse a Surefire light in water, then why don't they just post that info in the product specification?

Most of us already know that these aren't dive lights but I'd really like to know if my light is going to conk out if I drop in into a stream. *Tessaiga* simply dropped his into water (5') and there was water intrusion. I believe I remember seeing at least of couple of Craig's (LED Museum) Surefire lights surviving in a fish tank or toilet tank overnight and figured that they had a reasonable level of submerged water resistance. 

If indeed all Surefire lights without an "N" designation are only rain proof and not submersible to any depth, then I think it would be important make this common knowledge to new members since even some seasoned members are confused about the issue.


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## adamlau (Jul 8, 2008)

Agreed 100%. At least Freeplay specifically mentions when asked of whether a specific light is waterproof that "[n]o, it is not waterproof. It is splash proof and will work in rainy conditions".


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## Bullzeyebill (Jul 8, 2008)

If I remember correctly, the N lights had double O rings front and rear, and though not sure, used an all aluminum twisty tailcap with no provision for a momentary rubber button.

Bill


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## GPB (Jul 8, 2008)

Surefire is clear about this. Their lights are weather proof, not waterproof. If you are planning on submersing your light, get a light that is made for that. Surefire overdesigns their products so there's a good chance that your SF light can fall in a stream, or fishtank and be OK, but that's outside of the performance parameters the light is intended for.

I think we like to think that Surefire's are indestructable and its hard for some people to accept that a light that can scare away bears, get run over by a tank, and render bad guys imobile might be done in by something as mundane and common as your backyard swimming pool....but that's not the environment that Sufefire builds their lights to perform in. Superman had Kryptonite, Surefire has water. Deal with it.


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## climberkid (Jul 8, 2008)

sounds like a good conclusion.


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## Size15's (Jul 8, 2008)

If you dry out a SureFire slowly then it should recover - if an individual SureFire takes on water then so what? It's not rated waterproof but is designed to be recoverable.


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## Size15's (Jul 8, 2008)

Bullzeyebill said:


> If I remember correctly, the N lights had double O rings front and rear, and though not sure, used an all aluminum twisty tailcap with no provision for a momentary rubber button.
> 
> Bill


SureFire do have a twisty only TailCap for the standard body models (such as the 6P) - it's called model Z21.

However, N-Certified models feature the standard TailCap for that model. If the model features one o-ring on the TailCap end of the body SureFire tend to add a second - the Millennium Series already feature two.

There is no need for double o-rings at any other joint because the other joints are not intended to be rotated underwater. Even with double o-rings rotating threaded components underwater is discouraged.

As tactical lights and handheld everyday lights SureFire must balance the integrity of the TailCap seal against the ease at which users require the TailCap to be rotatable. Further, use (rotation) of a TailCap causes contaminants to build up potentially compromising the ability of the o-ring to effectively seal.


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## ambientmind (Jul 8, 2008)

Hmm, sounds like I started quite the discussion here! Well, I got all the info I need. I too was under the _assumption _that all Surefire lights were waterproof to 33 feet. I was wrong though, and its no big deal since I was just assuming based on hearsay. If anything is gained from this thread, its that knowledge and the fact that Surefire now needs to make a dive light! Then that would solve all our problems! FYI, I've taken a couple of my NovaTacs in the pool with no issues, but havent tried my Fenix T1 and TK10 yet after reading someone elses thread that water got into it. "Splashproof" or "weatherproof" is fine for me 99% of the time, I just thought I'd be silly and take one in the pool with me for fun. Now I know that if I drop it in a lake, I'd better hurry up and get it out quick! After drying out for almost 24 hours, it works fine again. Thanks for all the answers everyone!


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

Size15's said:


> However, N-Certified models feature the standard TailCap for that model. If the model features one o-ring on the TailCap end of the body SureFire tend to add a second - the Millennium Series already feature two.
> 
> There is no need for double o-rings at any other joint because the other joints are not intended to be rotated underwater. Even with double o-rings rotating threaded components underwater is discouraged.




With regards to the 6PN, isn't it also a standard 6P that has been individually tested as waterproof to a certain depth, then laser engraved with "N?"

This gives a lot of credit to your idea that even though Surefire calls their lights "weatherproof" they may indeed be able to handle a lot more than just water spray.

Is it your opinion Al, that most properly lubed Surefire models would have survived a 5' dunk, with one of the exception models being a G2? I'm just trying to collect an overall picture of what the real world water resistance actually is. 

Thanks,

Paul


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## Crenshaw (Jul 8, 2008)

I have no qualms about surefire not being waterproof, or water resistant for that matter. I can live with it.

I just think that a company as big as surefire, who has the capability to test torch lumens, and even be the industry standard in lumen measuring, can surely take an hour or so to IPXX rate thier lights, with perhaps a slight underrating, and a disclaimer that the IPXX rating is conservative, and that while surefire lights have the potential to survive under water, the IPXX rating is only the minimum water resistant level.

....and can also tell us specifically what they mean by "only the highest quality LEDs, sparring no expense to bring you the very best"_ -taken from the L1 "test spin"_

fwiw though, i ordered tail o rings from lighthound for my lights.

I do agree though, that if you were to need a light specifically for underwater use, get a pelican, or Uk..

Crenshaw

ps: i hope that didnt come out sounding like surefire bashing...it really isnt...


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## Patriot (Jul 8, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> i hope that didnt come out sounding like surefire bashing...it really isnt...





Not even a hint of bashing. Most of us know that you're also a fan. A rating as you described sounds wonderful to me.


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## Crenshaw (Jul 9, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> Not even a hint of bashing. Most of us know that you're also a fan. A rating as you described sounds wonderful to me.


thanks, ive just learnt to be really cautious, especially with whats happened before...

Crenshaw


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## cfromc (Jul 9, 2008)

This is a timely thread for me since I just bought two used G2s on CPFM. On Sunday I put one in a cup with water and some dish detergent. After a few hours (less than half a day) I went back to clean the light with a toothbrush. At that point it had some water in it. It was bezel down and the water covered about half the tailcap. The tailcap was twisted tight with no batteries or lamp in the light. I was a little surprised that water had gotten in there. Anyway, I got most of the dirt/grease off the light and then washed it with clean water inside and out. I let it sit for a few hours then used compressed air to dry everything out. I then let it sit for a day to dry out some more. As a matter of course I put double o-rings on all my Surefires that don't come that way already. On the G2s it does make it harder to turn the tailcap but a little extra lube alleviates that somewhat. But still, the light wasn't even fully submerged and it allowed water in. The dish detergent may have helped the water get in since it reduced the surface tension. I may have to test the light again without detergent in the water. Maybe I'll even test it with the original o-ring and with a 2nd o-ring.


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## Patriot (Jul 9, 2008)

Where does the 2nd oring go on the G2? Is it at the junction of thread and tube body?


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## climberkid (Jul 9, 2008)

i will be interested to see how that holds up actually....and its a shame it got in.


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## Monocrom (Jul 9, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> My guess is that Quickbeam acquired his information from somewhere and the (possible quote) about water resistance wasn't just a subjective sentence.


 
Sorry.

I should have been more specific. I wasn't refering to the issue of waterproof ratings on Surefire lights. I was refering to subjective comments in general that find their way into any review. 

Hope this clears things up.


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## Size15's (Jul 9, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> With regards to the 6PN, isn't it also a standard 6P that has been individually tested as waterproof to a certain depth, then laser engraved with "N?"


Yes - it's a standard 6P, the o-ring seals are checked and lubricated, usually a second o-ring is installed on the TailCap end of the body. Each one is then individually tested.
I don't believe it is laser etched with an "N" - the packaging label does have it though.



> Is it your opinion Al, that most properly lubed Surefire models would have survived a 5' dunk, with one of the exception models being a G2? I'm just trying to collect an overall picture of what the real world water resistance actually is.


This is my opinion.
Exceptions being Nitrolon models (G2/G2Z/G2L/G2ZL etc) and rechargeable models (8AX/8NX/L7/9AN/10X etc)

The user plays a vital role in ensuring that o-rings and threads are clean and contamination free and sufficiently lubricated. Any model that is used such that the threads are rotated often - the two-stage push button pressure switch TailCaps of the L1/L2/A2/K2 are more likely to be compromised by wear & contamination. I am less confident about taking these models for a swim if they see a lot of use or EDC.

Use a dive-rated light for underwater use.
Do not expose any gear to submersion (especially salt or dirty water) unless there is no other reasonable option.

Al


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## cfromc (Jul 9, 2008)

I have performed test #2 and the G2 failed miserably. I used the same glass, same level of water, and even cleaned and lubricated both o-rings (one at each end), and used no detergent. I planned on running the test for about 9 hours. When I was pouring my coffee about 15 minutes later I noticed air bubbles coming from the tailcap end where the tailcap meets the body of the light. The water did not cover the tailcap button, again only reaching half-way up the tailcap. I pulled the light out and had over 1/8" of water in the bezel. I have taken the light apart to dry and will be performing the third and final test (test 1 wasn't really meant to be a test - that is when I noticed water leaking into the light using water and detergent). The third test will be with 2 o-rings on the tailcap. It is definitely leaking at the tailcap o-ring. It may also be leaking from the bezel o-ring but I doubt it. Results to follow.


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## Aluminous (Jul 9, 2008)

Of possible interest: Here is a test of thorough swimming-pool submerging of Surefire 6P, Surefire E1B Backup, Fenix TK10, and Novatac 120P.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201115


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## Yoda4561 (Jul 9, 2008)

cf, are you greasing the o-rings too? Just curious as one would think that properly sized o-rings wouldn't leak that easily. There should be some kind of workable solution for folks that want a bit more water resistance out of a G series.


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## Patriot (Jul 9, 2008)

Aluminous said:


> Of possible interest: Here is a test of thorough swimming-pool submerging of Surefire 6P, Surefire E1B Backup, Fenix TK10, and Novatac 120P.
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201115




That was interesting. I missed that thread before somehow. It makes me want to grab 3 or 4 lights and go try the same thing. Unless I'm forgetting, the only light that I can remember taking in the pool was and LOD CE. I really thought that I was going to ruin it but it survived down to about 7' and I was often changing modes at 3-4' No water entered the light! After that I was thinking to myself...'wow, I'll be better lights like Surefire and Novatac are even more resistant!' I might have to start by taking a prepared 6P for a swim.


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## climberkid (Jul 9, 2008)

I plan on taking those lights back in the pool when i get my replacement o-rings from surefire. anyone have any other suggestions besides cleaning and lubing?


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## Patriot (Jul 9, 2008)

climberkid said:


> I plan on taking those lights back in the pool when i get my replacement o-rings from surefire. anyone have any other suggestions besides cleaning and lubing?



A thicker lube would probably help:


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## Toohotruk (Jul 9, 2008)

I recently bought my first nitrolon light (yellow G2) and after reading this thread, I examined my light a little more carefully. One thing I noticed that I had missed before, is that the tailcap itself has an o-ring on the part that fits inside the metal tube in the G2. 

It made me wonder if other SF lights had the same feature...so I checked my 6P and low and behold, it has one too. I would have thought that somewhat hidden o-ring would have gone a long way toward making the lights more water resistant. It's funny the things that go unnoticed for long periods of time, while they're sitting right in front of your nose! 

This thread is a real eye opener for me, because I remember reading that same statement on Quickbeam's site about how all Surefire flashlights are rated for 30 feet. And I also remember reading several "True Surefire Stories" on their site about Surefires being submerged for long periods of time (one for eight years!) with no ill effects. One of them was submerged in a sulfuric acid tank for several hours without damage and that was a G2 no less! They all must have been flukes, I guess.

I guess it's much better to learn these things here, rather than finding out the hard way...


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## Size15's (Jul 9, 2008)

I don't agree that "_they all must have been flukes_".
Not the metal models. I would presume they are watertight until actual use determines otherwise.

I would not assume that any thing sealed to keep out water is going to do just that without testing the thing for myself under was near-use conditions as reasonably practicable. So it comes as no surprise to me when something leaks, even when it has a waterproof rating. I try out gear before putting it to serious use. I do what I can to ensure it is well maintained so that it performs like it did during trials and that it continues to perform as experienced.

Perhaps my careers have taught me that nothing can ever perform at 100%, 100% of the time, and that when it comes to water - we can only do so much to manage it so places we'd prefer didn't get wet stayed dry for as long as possible.

Al


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## cfromc (Jul 9, 2008)

Yoda4561 said:


> cf, are you greasing the o-rings too? Just curious as one would think that properly sized o-rings wouldn't leak that easily. There should be some kind of workable solution for folks that want a bit more water resistance out of a G series.


 
Yes, I'm using dilectric grease on mainly the o-ring with a little on the threads also. I will be placing another o-ring and adding a little more grease tonight and testing again.


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## Toohotruk (Jul 9, 2008)

I should have said that differently...I have little doubt that most of the metal Surefires at least would handle a dunking without leakage. I have no hesitation washing my 6P under a faucet without fear and have done so at least a couple of times.

I only meant that in some of these stories, luck may have played a role. Especially the acid story.


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## Size15's (Jul 9, 2008)

Toohotruk said:


> I only meant that in some of these stories, luck may have played a role. Especially the acid story.


Certainly if they were routine or normal use they would likely not be worth mentioning and certainly not worth highlighting!


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## Toohotruk (Jul 9, 2008)

Size15's said:


> Certainly if they were routine or normal use they would likely not be worth mentioning and certainly not worth highlighting!



Yeah, something tells me that a "My 6P rolled off the workbench and it still works!" story isn't exactly going to be an attention grabber.


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## Crenshaw (Jul 9, 2008)

Toohotruk said:


> Yeah, something tells me that a "My 6P rolled off the workbench and it still works!" story isn't exactly going to be an attention grabber.



They way i see it, thousands of surefires are sold, and these stories only make up, 5% maybe? probably less? of the total number of surefires out there. Maybe these guys just got lucky..:shrug:

Crenshaw


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## cfromc (Jul 9, 2008)

Test 3 complete. Put the second o-ring on and more lube. In the water for 3 hours and a few drops of water entered. Much less than with only the single o-ring even with the much longer dunk but it still did leak. Test 4 is with another G2. I noticed at the start of test 4 that water quickly fills the space in the bezel behind the threads as evidenced but a lot of bubbles. The bubbles stop when that space is full. I checked immediately after the bubbles stopped and still dry on the inside. I'll leave it in for a while and see what happens.


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## cfromc (Jul 10, 2008)

Test 4 complete. Used a different G2. This one I did nothing special to, no extra lube, one o-ring. Same test only this time for 12 hours. Took light out and not a drop inside, completely dry. hmmmm. Seems the first one has a problem somewhere. Test 5 is the second G2 (the dry one so far) and two o-rings. Will report back. I will also be removing the 2nd o-ring after these tests since it doesn't need it to be "weatherproof" and it is harder to get the tailcap on with it. Perhaps test 6 will be with the tailcap submerged (light tailcap side down in the cup).


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## Patriot (Jul 10, 2008)

Interesting results cfromc. I'll be watching...


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## climberkid (Jul 10, 2008)

just got my new o-rings from surefire. they sent me an extra for the tail cap  so now i have 2 on there. i cleaned my 6P and added plenty of lube. time for another test tonight!


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## cfromc (Jul 10, 2008)

Test 5 successful. 9 Hours no leakage. Now I have put the light tailcap down for test 6.


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## Toohotruk (Jul 10, 2008)




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## Crenshaw (Jul 10, 2008)

cfromc said:


> Test 5 successful. 9 Hours no leakage. Now I have put the light tailcap down for test 6.



yikes, thats alot of variation between two units of a light...

Crenshaw


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## climberkid (Jul 10, 2008)

I am going to try for a third and final time to post this...

Since this thread is active and my previous testing one is not i will post results here.
After cleaning, putting new o-rings on, and lubing up my 6P and my TK10 i went for another swim. I was in the pool for about an hour and a half with both lights (and my previously successful NovaTac 120P). The 6P was finally successful but for the 5th time, the TK10 took on water and failed. I guess i just have to keep it out of the water. Here are some pics of me with the 6P


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## GPB (Jul 11, 2008)

I am absolutely flabergasted by this thread. There have been 3 pages devoted to the discussion of a flashlight not doing something that the manufacturer doesn't claim it will do, nor should we expect it to do. 

A truly waterproof light is a very specialized tool. If you need one of those, get one. Just so you all know, your surefire light won't tell time, point to north, or melt solder. There are specialized tools for those tasks, too. We should no more expect our SF Lights to be waterproof as we would expect them to act as a compass, watch or soldering iron. Surefire doesn't claim they are waterproof, so why have we spent all this time testing and discussing the fact that they aren't waterproof ?!?!? They are great lights at what they were designed to do. Surving submersion isn't what they were designed for.


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## climberkid (Jul 11, 2008)

even though i understand what you are saying i dont see it necessary to point that out. can we not have a good time messing around with our lights and talking about it with others who do the same things? if it seems like we are whining on this thread then dont read it, please. when you post something that puts down other people or what they are doing it just makes people feel like crap. i hope you can understand where i am coming from.


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## woodrow (Jul 11, 2008)

GPB said:


> I am absolutely flabergasted by this thread. There have been 3 pages devoted to the discussion of a flashlight not doing something that the manufacturer doesn't claim it will do, nor should we expect it to do.
> 
> A truly waterproof light is a very specialized tool. If you need one of those, get one. Just so you all know, your surefire light won't tell time, point to north, or melt solder. There are specialized tools for those tasks, too. We should no more expect our SF Lights to be waterproof as we would expect them to act as a compass, watch or soldering iron. Surefire doesn't claim they are waterproof, so why have we spent all this time testing and discussing the fact that they aren't waterproof ?!?!? They are great lights at what they were designed to do. Surving submersion isn't what they were designed for.



Because some of us who use our lights outdoors need to know if a light can still be counted on if it gets wet when we cross a stream or if our canoe gets capsized. Not just if they are not suitable for deep sea diving. I for one was tempted to use a gpz as a light weight hiking light. (and I have bought dedecated dive lights) Now I know that some SF may not be up to the task. (even one called The Outdoorsman) And that's too bad. But because of this thread, at least I will not be left in the dark!


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## Crenshaw (Jul 11, 2008)

why is it a concern you ask?



> *G2 Takes Acid Bath*
> I work in an electroplating factory, where I inspect the plating units to make sure everything is working properly. One day one of the machines got stuck, so I pulled out my handy G2® Nitrolon® to take a look at its gears, and I discovered that it had a loose chain. So I set my G2 on the walkway and went in to fix the darn thing.
> 
> When I climbed out, I noticed that my G2 had disappeared from the spot where I left it. I asked the foremen if anyone had taken it as a joke, but he said no, so I pulled out my SureFire E2E Executive backup light and started searching for my G2. It didn't take me long to discover my G2 lying like a distressed submarine at the bottom of a tank of sulfuric acid. My heart sank—What could be worse than seeing a fine piece of equipment drowning in a highly corrosive chemical bath?
> ...





> *L1 Gets Swamped but Keeps on Shining*
> I live about 20 minutes from the unforgiving Florida Everglades, where my L1 LumaMax® has endured the best and the worse the glades have to offer. One night, while we were out four-wheeling, I was using my L1 as a searchlight of sorts, scanning the swamps, when it slipped out of my hand into two feet of mud. It was then run over several times. I thought I wouldn't find it until morning, but to my surprise it was glowing as bright as it ever had under several feet of murky, muddy water. I picked it up, wiped it off, and, as the slogan goes, kept on truckin'!
> 
> Thanks SureFire, for making the best of the best.
> ...





> *6P Enjoys Eight Year Soak*
> I recently found my father's 6P® Original® after he thought he lost it eight years ago. I was helping him move from one house to another and was tasked with moving all the heavy, bulky items from underneath his deck on the backside of the house. I was emptying a big storm-runoff barrel with about 55 gallons of water inside. After it had been tipped over and emptied, I looked inside the drum, and on the bottom was Dad's 6P. It was covered in eight years of mud, sludge and some really nasty water.
> 
> I pulled it out, not expecting it to work, and was surprised with a shot of bright light to my eyes. I opened up the light and found, to my disbelief, not one speck of rust or a single drop of water—after eight years!
> ...


thats why we are discussing what went wrong.Sure, surefire never claims to be waterproof, but stories like this usually make us think so. We are discussing, how come some lights can survive an 8 year soak, while others, not even a 5foot dip.

Crenshaw


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## cfromc (Jul 11, 2008)

GPB, I checked Surefire's website for the 6P and G2 and both say "weatherproof", whatever that means. However, the very first "True Story" is of the 6P that was submerged in a 55-gallon drum for 8 years and was still completely dry inside. While this may not be a direct statement from Surefire it sure implies that the 6P is water resistant to at least a few feet. If Surefire did not want to directly imply this, they could have simply chosen not to include that "True Story" on their website. I don't think its too much to ask a $36 flashlight to not take on water when the tailcap is only 1/2" under water, especially for a few minutes. 

By the way, the second G2 passed the last test. Tailcap down, floating in water, 2 o-rings, 6 hours and completely dry inside. Now I'm doing the same test with only 1 o-ring. Such a difference in two of the same lights, both even the same color. One lasts for hours bone dry, the other takes on water almost immediately.


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## cfromc (Jul 11, 2008)

I was composing my last post during the same time the two previous posts were posted. (confused?) Anyway, my suggestion would be to test any light for the environment its going to be used in (or possibly used in).


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## Crenshaw (Jul 11, 2008)

cfromc said:


> I was composing my last post during the same time the two previous posts were posted. (confused?) Anyway, my suggestion would be to test any light for the environment its going to be used in (or possibly used in).



i took the liberty to show him exactly why we're so hyped up over this leaking of the G2..

Crenshaw


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## Patriot (Jul 11, 2008)

GPB said:


> I am absolutely flabergasted by this thread. There have been 3 pages devoted to the discussion of a flashlight not doing something that the manufacturer doesn't claim it will do, nor should we expect it to do.



That's a bit of an under simplification, or maybe I should say over complication the way you stated it. If you read the hold thread then you're aware that there has been an understanding migration as we acquired tid bits of info. Several of us were under the impression that Surefire lights were water resistant to 33 feet because of information that had been gained from somewhere, source to yet be identified. Yes we did get to the bottom of it and others are having fun while spectators like me are enjoying the reports.




> so why have we spent all this time testing and discussing the fact that they aren't waterproof ?!?!? They are great lights at what they were designed to do.


We're not discussing that they aren't waterproof. In fact, we're humbly impressed by some of the results we're seeing....and as you can see by the pictures, certain models are quite water resistance despite the fact that you don't like the idea of us dunking them. Additionally it's not quite "a fact" that they aren't waterproof because Surefire makes at least one model, the 6PN, that is rated to 33 feet.


Woodrow is correct in stating that some of us just like to know where the limits of our lights are and that includes a lot more than just water resistance. A while back a CPF member crushed his Fenix T1 in a scientific lbs-force, hydraulic press just because we had an interest in how much abuse it could take before failing. We all thought it was great and no one jumped in to tell us that "it's a flashlight not a jackstand!" 



C'kid, thanks for the pictures. The beam is very photogenic underwater.


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## Toohotruk (Jul 11, 2008)

climberkid said:


> even though i understand what you are saying i dont see it necessary to point that out. can we not have a good time messing around with our lights and talking about it with others who do the same things? if it seems like we are whining on this thread then dont read it, please. when you post something that puts down other people or what they are doing it just makes people feel like crap. i hope you can understand where i am coming from.



+1... If the discussion bothers you so much, why did you waste your time reading three pages of a thread, then waste even more time composing a long post to criticize those of us that do want to discuss it??? Might want to look up the word "troll"... :sick2:

I could go on, but that would waste even more time...besides, I have to go set my SF 6P to wake me up tomorrow morning...


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## Size15's (Jul 11, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> Additionally it's not quite "a fact" that they aren't waterproof because Surefire makes at least one model, the 6PN, that is rated to 33 feet.


actually it's 33 metres/100 feet / 3 atmospheres


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## climberkid (Jul 11, 2008)

Size15's said:


> actually it's 33 metres/100 feet / 3 atmospheres


thats even sweeter!  thanks for that clarification


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## GPB (Jul 11, 2008)

It wasn't my intention to make anyone "feel like crap". I am sorry if it came off that way. I have been following the thread for a while and was just very surprised by how long it has gone on. I can certainly see the usefulness of finding the limits of lights, and even the pursuit of knowledge for purely academic reasons. The problem is that when you are at the absolute limit of an experiment, results are not repeatable or dependable. If I flip over in a canoe and my G2 is fine, it doesn't mean yours will be. For all those amazing stories that Surefire publishes, those are amazing simply because they aren't the norm.....they are extreme examples. It's like a cars lifespan. Cars are guaranteed for 50-100k miles usually, but you may see an ad with a guy who has 500k miles on his car and its still running great. That doesn't mean you should expect yours to last that long. 

After re-reading my post I realize it was excessively harsh and not in keeping with the universal attitude of tolerance that makes this website such a great place to frequent, and I'm sorry.


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## Tempest UK (Jul 11, 2008)

Through nothing but my own stupidity, I managed to get a P60L absolutely flooded with water. This has no bearing on the waterproof rating of the G2 or any other SureFire, because it was my fault the P60L got flooded, not the fault of the SureFire itself. Anyway, after a good long drying out I put it back in a 6PL and it worked without any problems. No cutting out, no flickering. Even the reflector finish was perfect. 

In other words, even if your light does take on a bit of water, it's not a big problem. Just dry it out thoroughly and you should be good to go again.

Regards,
Tempest


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## climberkid (Jul 11, 2008)

its all good GPB, after all we are all entitled to our opinion. i hope you can be a constructive critic if this thread continues :nana:


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## climberkid (Jul 11, 2008)

Tempest UK said:


> In other words, even if your light does take on a bit of water, it's not a big problem. Just dry it out thoroughly and you should be good to go again.
> 
> Regards,
> Tempest


in regards to this...
i did clean out my TK10 and its working like a charm....again.


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## cfromc (Jul 11, 2008)

Final test at this point. 2nd G2, 9 hours, tailcap down-light floating in water most of the way up the bezel, 1 o-ring, no leakage. Night and Day from first light to this one. The second G2 actually had very little lube on the threads and o-ring(s) while the first had liberal amounts by the end of the testing. I would say the second is definitely weatherproof at least in regards to water intrusion that could be encountered doing most tasks, or even "extreme" use, including changing a tire in a heavy downpour and being dropped into a puddle a couple times or dropping the light into a bucket of fluid, washing the light under water, leaving the light outside in the rain, etc.. The first light I think would be up to most tasks, especially with the 2nd o-ring but I might be concerned about it being submerged at all for more than a few seconds.


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## Crenshaw (Jul 11, 2008)

cfromc said:


> Final test at this point. 2nd G2, 9 hours, tailcap down-light floating in water most of the way up the bezel, 1 o-ring, no leakage. Night and Day from first light to this one. The second G2 actually had very little lube on the threads and o-ring(s) while the first had liberal amounts by the end of the testing. I would say the second is definitely weatherproof at least in regards to water intrusion that could be encountered doing most tasks, or even "extreme" use, including changing a tire in a heavy downpour and being dropped into a puddle a couple times or dropping the light into a bucket of fluid, washing the light under water, leaving the light outside in the rain, etc.. The first light I think would be up to most tasks, especially with the 2nd o-ring but I might be concerned about it being submerged at all for more than a few seconds.



can you see any physical differences in the light? why is there such a differnce between to units of the same model?

Crenshaw


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## DM51 (Jul 11, 2008)

Tempest UK said:


> In other words, even if your light does take on a bit of water, it's not a big problem. Just dry it out thoroughly and you should be good to go again.


With fresh water that is true, but I would caution people against experimenting with seawater. The saline content will cause big problems if a light floods. 

If you do happen to get a light flooded with seawater, it is likely to stop working almost immediately on flooding, but you should do the following:

1. Turn it off immediately, even if it has stopped working
2. Take out the cells as soon as possible and dispose of them 
3. At the earliest opportunity, wash the light inside and out very thoroughly with FRESH water (hold it under the tap/faucet) to remove all traces of salt
4. Then let it dry out completely.

This MAY save the light, but be warned that salt water and electronics really don't go well together.


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## Tempest UK (Jul 11, 2008)

A good point, it was just fresh water that my P60L was exposed to.

Regards,
Tempest


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## Size15's (Jul 11, 2008)

DM51's caution can also apply to chemically treated swimming pool water and the usually stronger chemicals in hot tubs.
I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in the hot tub of a Vegas motel. I regret to recall that my big tool exploded without warning due to all the messing around we were up to.

To a certain extent contaminated water - mud, dirt etc can also cause issues. I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in a mud... I regret I do not recall that one...

Al


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## cfromc (Jul 11, 2008)

Size15's said:


> DM51's caution can also apply to chemically treated swimming pool water and the usually stronger chemicals in hot tubs.
> I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in the hot tub of a Vegas motel. I regret to recall that my big tool exploded without warning due to all the messing around we were up to.
> 
> To a certain extent contaminated water - mud, dirt etc can also cause issues. I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in a mud... I regret I do not recall that one...
> ...


 
I believe they have lubricants now can that help with those "explosions without warning".

Anyway...I checked both tailcaps and the leaker seems a little dirtier inside and has more lube. The other seems clean as new and is almost dry comparitively.


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## Toohotruk (Jul 11, 2008)

Size15's said:


> DM51's caution can also apply to chemically treated swimming pool water and the usually stronger chemicals in hot tubs.
> I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in the hot tub of a Vegas motel. I regret to recall that my big tool exploded without warning due to all the messing around we were up to.
> 
> To a certain extent contaminated water - mud, dirt etc can also cause issues. I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in a mud... I regret I do not recall that one...
> ...



You lucky dog!!! :naughty: :naughty: :naughty:


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## Bullzeyebill (Jul 12, 2008)

Size15's said:


> DM51's caution can also apply to chemically treated swimming pool water and the usually stronger chemicals in hot tubs.
> I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in the hot tub of a Vegas motel. I regret to recall that my big tool exploded without warning due to all the messing around we were up to.
> 
> To a certain extent contaminated water - mud, dirt etc can also cause issues. I had an experience with an M6 and two university girls in a mud... I regret I do not recall that one...
> ...



Gee wiz Al, I thought this was a family forum.

Bill


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## Size15's (Jul 12, 2008)

Bullzeyebill said:


> Gee wiz Al, I thought this was a family forum.
> 
> Bill


Bill, Am I being accused of double entendre?
Perhaps one shouldn't read too much into it? :naughty:


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## Crenshaw (Jul 12, 2008)

Size15's said:


> Bill, Am I being accused of double entendre?
> Perhaps one shouldn't read too much into it? :naughty:



lol, M6, two girls, hot tub....

sounds interesting

Crenshaw


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## Size15's (Jul 12, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> lol, M6, two girls, hot tub....
> 
> sounds interesting
> 
> Crenshaw


I was young, I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and SureFires. The rest I just squandered...


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## Monocrom (Jul 12, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> lol, M6, two girls, hot tub....
> 
> sounds interesting
> 
> Crenshaw


 
Apparently an interesting way to ruin an M6.


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## MikeSalt (Jul 12, 2008)

What people are forgetting here is that Quickbeam's review site was closed for editing a long time ago. It is possible that Surefire made that statement before the Nitrolon series was released.


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## Toohotruk (Jul 12, 2008)

When was the Nitrolon series released?


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## Toohotruk (Jul 12, 2008)

Size15's said:


> I was young, I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and SureFires. The rest I just squandered...


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## Size15's (Jul 12, 2008)

MikeSalt said:


> What people are forgetting here is that Quickbeam's review site was closed for editing a long time ago. It is possible that Surefire made that statement before the Nitrolon series was released.


I don't think this was the case.


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## Patriot (Jul 13, 2008)

Size15's said:


> actually it's 33 metres/100 feet / 3 atmospheres




Oh my....I'm having a rough time with my figures... Thanks for the clarification.


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## BigHonu (Jul 13, 2008)

All of this testing is great and I applaud the individuals who put their lights on the line.

Some things I've learned over the years:

A small thread or fine hair will compromise the seal of a dive rated light.

If water resistance is important, o-rings should be inspected, lubed or replaced often. Extremely crucial on twisty style lights.

Lights should not be turned on and off while submerged (even dive lights).

An individual light not rated for diving can be made to be waterproof. Don't expect that using the same waterproofing proceedure will work on another light however.


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## Fooboy (Mar 30, 2010)

have to bump this - awesome read.


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## KeyGrip (Mar 30, 2010)

Yea. And remember kids: Water_proof_ and water _resistant_ -there is a big difference. Also check your seals early and often, many complaints of poor water resistance are due to improper maintenance .


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## ampdude (Mar 31, 2010)

I added an extra o-ring to the tailcap of some of my lights, including a G2. I did this mostly so that the tailcap does not spin so easily, but also for extra water resistance. Lighthound has a good assortment, and some of them are slightly fatter than the stock o-rings.


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## SUREFIRED (Mar 31, 2010)

It is a great thread, keep it up! I have swam in a pool with almost all of my lights, none have leaked (knock on wood) but the G2L has come the closest to leaking (water on the threads just past the o-ring) after a long soak in the bathtub. My friend has a G2 and just recently we took it (and my Dual oring'd C2) in the hot tub. The C2 was perfectly fine, but the G2 was okay, just a little water past the seal on the tailcap end.


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## the0dore3524 (May 15, 2016)

So....any new news on this front? Are they really waterproof and to what depth? I stuck my G2 into water and it leaked almost immediately, but I think it's because the seal on the head (the lexan lense) has popper out several times.


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## Monocrom (May 15, 2016)

Zombie topic rises from it's grave again! oo:

Time to finish the job! 

Sorry, I'm in a bit of a playful mood right now. No offense. Having posted that, let's put this issue to rest. I own about two dozen SF lights. Including an old, unmodded, G2. No, it's not water-proof. Then again, most lights from most brands are not water-proof. They are water-resistant. If you need a light that is actually water-proof, then you're going to want to check out some dedicated dive lights. A single O-ring under the bezel and one under the tailcap is just not going to cut it. It's not.

Take a look at the offerings from U.K. (Underwater Kinetics) or Pelican. Both brands have genuine water-proof lights in their line-ups. *However* output is not the strong suit of dedicated water-proof dive lights.


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## RobertMM (May 18, 2016)

It appears some are, like my G2L-KX4BKHA. Dunked it over a meter several times already for over 10min, no water past the Oring.

The incan G2 I have is another story, it leaked as soon as I submerged it. 

Maybe it has to do with the fact that teh G2L has a thicker Oring, which resists turning the tailcap quite well, and seems well compressed, while the incan's Oring and tailcap feels loose. i may add Oring to the slots on both of them and to my C2 and 6Ps.


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## Monocrom (May 18, 2016)

Looks like SureFire might have used a better, o-ring that wasn't around during the height of the G2's popularity. Thanks for posting that.


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## fivemega (May 19, 2016)

RobertMM said:


> i may add Oring to the slots on both of them and to my C2 and 6Ps.


*Most of my custom made "C" bodies come with double o'ring on both ends.
Also correctly lube of o'rings will help a lot.*


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## gotothelight (May 24, 2016)

Not to disparage the G2's, but I kind of look at these as a backup for when you're doing something that might damage a "good" flashlight. At least that's how I use mine. Pressing the button to activate the light, and watching the entire tailcap shift forward in the sloppy threads sure doesn't inspire confidence in it's watertight properties.


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## the0dore3524 (May 24, 2016)

gotothelight said:


> Not to disparage the G2's, but I kind of look at these as a backup for when you're doing something that might damage a "good" flashlight. At least that's how I use mine. Pressing the button to activate the light, and watching the entire tailcap shift forward in the sloppy threads sure doesn't inspire confidence in it's watertight properties.



It's the same for me. I generally use it because it seems, if you will, "expendable". I like that the Nitrolon is a lot more scratch-resistant and that I don't have to worry about banging up a light.


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## Monocrom (May 25, 2016)

gotothelight said:


> Not to disparage the G2's, but I kind of look at these as a backup for when you're doing something that might damage a "good" flashlight. At least that's how I use mine. Pressing the button to activate the light, and watching the entire tailcap shift forward in the sloppy threads sure doesn't inspire confidence in it's watertight properties.



Sloppy threads? Sounds like you got a lemon. My stock G2 has good threads. Nothing loose there or sloppy.


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## m4a1usr (May 25, 2016)

It's interesting to read thru the comments over the years. Seems like a mixed bag? I do like my G2 lights. I know I settled on McClickies installed in mine so the TC is always tight. Never had a water intrusion problem myself. Either the O-rings or the Tailcaps I am using are sized right or I unknowingly installed larger diameter O-rings when upgrading? The one common theme in mine is I dumped the short TC's in favor of the longer ones that will accept the McClicky. I never liked the short ones that have the "guts" which fall out when changing cells. So maybe there's something there to? Plus I agree with FM when he say's to always have them properly lubed. Good sound advice.


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## scs (May 25, 2016)

gotothelight said:


> Not to disparage the G2's, but I kind of look at these as a backup for when you're doing something that might damage a "good" flashlight. At least that's how I use mine. Pressing the button to activate the light, and watching the entire tailcap shift forward in the sloppy threads sure doesn't inspire confidence in it's watertight properties.



My C2 tailcap does a bit of that as well, but I don't think its threads are sloppy.
I believe the G2 tailcap inside diameter is slightly larger than its P and C counterparts. I've put my G2 tailcap on my 6p and C2 and it felt loose.
The stock G2 orings in the head and tail are thinner. I've replaced them with ones for my 6P and both ends are now a much tighter fit, and the unit is waterproof.


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