# Review of 4Sevens Quark X 123-2 Tactical with measurements and outdoor beamshots



## HKJ (Sep 8, 2011)

[size=+3]4Sevens Quark X 123-2 Tactical[/size]














4Sevens started their flashlight business with a light series called Quark, this light has been updated with new leds a few times and here I am looking at the latest update of it, this time to the Cree XM-L led. The light has 5 brightness settings and strobe, sos and slow beacon modes, but only two of these are accessible at a time. The light is made of aluminum with hard-anodized (Type 3) finish.






I got a review copy of the light without any box or accessories, but 4Sevens says that it will contain the same accessories as always. I have used a picture from the old version of the light to illustrate the accessories.












The light has a LOP (*L*ight *O*range *p*eel) reflector with a XM-L led at the bottom. The bezel is smooth aluminium. 






The battery connection in the head has a mechanical polarity protection (The two half moon pieces). The center is reinforced with metal. The ring is part of the mode selection. 









Both front and back threads are square cut, but they are not anodized, because they are used for the electric connection. There is also a o-ring to keep the light sealed. 






Both body and head has knurling to improve the grip.














The light has a removable clip and because the threads on the body is symmetric it is possible to mount the body either way, i.e. the clip can be used for either bezel down or bezel up carry.






To remove the clip the o-ring must first be removed and then the lock ring loosened. 









Inside the tailcap is the classic spring with the switch behind it. This light is using the tactical interface and has a protuding switch, i.e. it cannot tail stand.
The threads in the tailcap are anodized, this makes it possible to do a lockout, at least until the anodized wears down. 






The user interface uses a loose/tight head to select between two programmed settings. To program settings, loosen/tighten the head at least four times and leave it in the state that has to be programmed (loose/tight), the light will flash 3 times to signal it is in programming mode. When in programming mode each off/on will advance one step in the above mode list. When the desired mode is selected, wait until the light flashes again, now that head position is programmed. 






Here is all the part the light can be disassembled in without tools.


This update of the Quark makes it very bright for its size, to handle the heat a step down has been implemented, except for this everything else is the same in the light. This makes it a good two level 2xCR123 light (Using any more than two levels is cumbersome).



[size=+3]Technical specification and measurements[/size]






The head of the light is designed to work from 3 to 9 volt, but not with full brightness at all voltages, for the 2xCR123 size body it means it will work with two 3 volt lithium or two 16340 LiIon batteries.

Measured size and weight: 
Length: 116 mm
Diameter: 19.4 mm to 22 mm
Weight: 112 with eneloop

The light uses a Cree XM-L led.






In the above table I have collected all modes, measured at 5 volt. All the estimated runtimes are with 1400mAh CR123 batteries. The estimated lumen is scale from the specified maximum. The brightness is a relative measurement from a lux meter. 






A voltage sweep at high shows a good stabilization that works down to 4.5 volt, then it has a drop in brightness.






After a few minutes the light will reduce output, this reduced output does stabilize down to 4.5 volt, then it has a drop in brightness, this can also be seen on the runtime curve.






On high the drop has changed to a small rise, this is also reflected in the runtime curve.






Medium works the same way as high.






16340 LiIon batteries does not contains as much energy as CR123 batteries and gives shorter runtime. The 16340 batteries does also have a protection circuit that cuts the power before the voltage is low enough to show any rise or dip in brightness. 






The light did not have any cooling fins and is a small light, how can it handle the heat? As can be seen on the curve, the temperature rises fast when the light is on max, but when the light reduces output after 3 minutes, it can keep a stable temperature.











When selecting the beacon mode the light will flash a couple of times fast and then look like it turned off, but 9.3 second later it will do a 1 second flash, this will repeat: 9.3 second pause and 1 second flash. 






The sos uses a 0.34 second dot time and takes a total of 11.3 seconds to transmit.






Strobe is 9.6 hz with 46% duty cycle.










The drive does not give a completely smooth light output, there is some noise in the light, depending on battery voltage. The frequency of this noise is fast enough to be invisible.




[size=+3]Comparison to other Flashlights[/size]

4Sevens Quark AA-2 (old), 4Sevens Quark X AA-2, 4Sevens Quark X 123-2 Tactical:











Fenix LD25, Fenix TK21 U2, Fenix PD31:












For the full comparison to other lights with graphs and beamshots see here






[size=+3]Notes[/size]

The light was supplied by 4Sevens for review.


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## light36 (Sep 8, 2011)

*Great review HKJ , just ordered my X 123-2(not tactical) based on your review .*


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## MichaelW (Sep 8, 2011)

Is there a way to reset/cheat the 'overboost' mode? [Initial 3 minute period of 1.5 amp drive] by switching into strobe then back to Maximum?


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## djans1397 (Sep 8, 2011)

I just lost my old XRE Fenix PD30 and am devistated  I've had it for a long time and it has gone EVERYWHERE with me. I've been reluctant to upgrade to a newer version as I've enjoyed the throw on the XRE as compared to the newer "brighter" lights. I now am forced to get another light and have been checking out this model as a replacement. I've little experience with a $ sevens light and have been a loyal Fenix fan for years now. 

My question is two-fold; 1.) How does the 4 sevens compare in quality to Fenix; i.e. anodizing, build quality, etc. 2.) It appears that even the XP-G of the Fenix PD31 still has more throw than the XM-L, or at least it does based on your photos. Do the newer XM-L lights give up more throw at the expense of brightness?

I need a replacement soon so any input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan


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## HKJ (Sep 9, 2011)

MichaelW said:


> Is there a way to reset/cheat the 'overboost' mode? [Initial 3 minute period of 1.5 amp drive] by switching into strobe then back to Maximum?



With the tactical it would require to loosen/tighten the head, but on the regular Quark two half pressed on the switch it will reset it back to maximum output.



djans1397 said:


> My question is two-fold; 1.) How does the 4 sevens compare in quality to Fenix; i.e. anodizing, build quality, etc. 2.) It appears that even the XP-G of the Fenix PD31 still has more throw than the XM-L, or at least it does based on your photos. Do the newer XM-L lights give up more throw at the expense of brightness?
> 
> I need a replacement soon so any input would be appreciated.



1) About the same.

2) This is general behaviour for XM-L, it needs a larger reflector to match the throw of the smaller leds, but the total lumen output from XM-L is larger, even with the same current.


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## roadkill1109 (Sep 9, 2011)

HKJ said:


> With the tactical it would require to loosen/tighten the head, but on the regular Quark two half pressed on the switch it will reset it back to maximum output.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That is correct, large LEDs need big reflectors to throw properly. That's why among the tiny EDC lights, the Olight i6 implementation is one of the best throwers among the tiny lights. If XML is put in a small light becomes floody, hence most manufacturers prefer to use orange peel reflectors to maximize flood of the beam. 

Rule of thumb: the smaller the LED the better the throw on tiny lights. Which is why the R5 is practically the best among the small LEDs for small lights. S2, not that much (i own the Quark S2).


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## MichaelW (Sep 9, 2011)

HKJ said:


> With the tactical it would require to loosen/tighten the head, but on the regular Quark two half pressed on the switch it will reset it back to maximum output.



I read so many reviews of the QuarX, I forget you had the tactical version.

Any guess on the run/funtime? (until 3.4 volts)
Does 45 minutes +/- 15 minutes (on cr123A) seem about right, unless the PTC of the first cells comes into play?


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## HKJ (Sep 9, 2011)

MichaelW said:


> I read so many reviews of the QuarX, I forget you had the tactical version.



I had a tactical 123-2 and a regular AA-2, and have posted reviews of both.



MichaelW said:


> Any guess on the run/funtime? (until 3.4 volts)
> Does 45 minutes +/- 15 minutes (on cr123A) seem about right, unless the PTC of the first cells comes into play?



In my mode table I have an estimate of 1.1 hour.


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## MichaelW (Sep 9, 2011)

An estimate will have to be good enough, who wants to keep on re-cycling the head 20 times in an hour to see what actual run/funtime is.

I read both or your outstanding reviews.


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## ryxlyx (Sep 11, 2011)

Fascinating, thank you! I have a regular X 1232 en route (my first good flashlight), and am glad to see confirmation of the roughly 30 lumen medium setting, as the 65 shown in the specs would seem less practical, given the halved runtime--


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## GraveTrain (Oct 5, 2011)

Think you can run a single protected 17670 in this light?


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## HKJ (Oct 6, 2011)

GraveTrain said:


> Think you can run protected a single 17670 in this light?



If the cell fit, yes (I will check that later), but it has slightly reduced output on Max., all other levels will work fine.

Edit:
I checked with a AW17670 cell, it did fit, but was very tight.


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## tazambo (Oct 18, 2011)

Just ordered the non tactical version, based on you great review.
Can't wait for it to arrive


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## madecov (Jan 22, 2012)

This is my EDC light. I really like it. I use the deep carry clip. I also carry this light when working plain clothes.


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## Pete2s (Jan 27, 2012)

As the voltage decreases on max output, why do the amps increase?


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## 4sevens (Jan 27, 2012)

Pete2s said:


> As the voltage decreases on max output, why do the amps increase?


Thats a characteristic of a fully regulated driver. While the batteries are fresh the draw is minimal, efficiently drawing a little current as possible to maintain a constant output to the LED. As the battery voltage drops overtime, the circuit compensates by drawing more current to maintain the same output to the LED. Near the end of battery life the circuit works the hardest - with the lowest input voltage, it draws as much as it can to keep the same output to the LED - effectively using up all the power in the battery. Meanwhile the user experiences extremely flat output to the LED from the first minute to the last. Hope this explanation helps 

-David


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## Outlander (Jan 29, 2012)

Thanks for the review. Going to order this light for EDC with a deep carry clip.


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## tobrien (Jan 29, 2012)

4sevens said:


> Thats a characteristic of a fully regulated driver. While the batteries are fresh the draw is minimal, efficiently drawing a little current as possible to maintain a constant output to the LED. As the battery voltage drops overtime, the circuit compensates by drawing more current to maintain the same output to the LED. Near the end of battery life the circuit works the hardest - with the lowest input voltage, it draws as much as it can to keep the same output to the LED - effectively using up all the power in the battery. Meanwhile the user experiences extremely flat output to the LED from the first minute to the last. Hope this explanation helps
> 
> -David


although it wasn't my question, thanks for the explanation! 

I have an X 123^2 tactical and I use it all the time and it is the best!


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## bfksc (Mar 8, 2012)

Pete2s said:


> As the voltage decreases on max output, why do the amps increase?


As David explained, it's how the circuit maintains constant output. It's a common relation to Ohm's Law and how it works:

I = V / R (current equals voltage divided by resistance)

Where I is the current, V is potential voltage, and R is the resistance in the conductor. So as voltage drops, resistance causes current to increase. Using basic math, you can also calculate other factors like voltage using V = I * R, or resistance using R = V / I. I learned this from my father when I was in grade school, and he made me memorize it. I've used it many times over the years even though I'm not in any field that requires it, such as an electrician. It's just "good to know" info.

I'm awaiting delivery of a Quark X 123x2 Tactical in Neutral White myself (error in shipping so it won't be here until next week). I have RCR123's to run it...I figure it'll be my general outdoor light (hiking, camping, dog walking, etc.).
:thumbsup:


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## madecov (Mar 25, 2012)

This has become one of my favorites. I guess I got lucky because AW 17670 cells fit mine without any trouble (I have a Quark tactical turbo also and they are way too tight).

This light is so easy to carry all the time. I just recently went back into uniformed duty and I use it as my back up light. Basically if I am dressed and awake I carry one.

Everyone who sees it thinks it is amazing something this small puts out that much light.


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## tobrien (Mar 25, 2012)

madecov said:


> This has become one of my favorites. I guess I got lucky because AW 17670 cells fit mine without any trouble (I have a Quark tactical turbo also and they are way too tight).
> 
> This light is so easy to carry all the time. I just recently went back into uniformed duty and I use it as my back up light. Basically if I am dressed and awake I carry one.
> 
> Everyone who sees it thinks it is amazing something this small puts out that much light.


same here, everyone i've shown it to is stunned and mine does the 17670s as well. perhaps all current Quarks that are able to do 123^2 can do the AW 17670s nowadays?

i have a Quark RGB and the fit is far too tight (at least with the 17670s label on, which I don't care to remove) for it, but it's a ~2 year old light i think


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## Cairo (Jul 6, 2012)

I have the r5 version and when the battery's are low it seems to get dimmer is that normal ps great review immthinking of getting the XML version and this helped a lot


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## HKJ (Jul 15, 2012)

Cairo said:


> I have the r5 version and when the battery's are low it seems to get dimmer is that normal ps great review immthinking of getting the XML version and this helped a lot



Brightness depends on the battery type you uses. CR123 will drop in voltage and have a dimmer output when batteries are low.
Using 1xLiIon (17650) will also dim , but using 2xLiIon will not.


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## Bigpal (Jul 17, 2012)

Silly question I think.

When I view the pictures, there's 2 on the top, 1 on the bottom like this:

pic pic
pic

Do you label them left, left, right or top, top, bottom? Does that make any sense at all?


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## HKJ (Jul 17, 2012)

Bigpal said:


> Silly question I think.
> 
> When I view the pictures, there's 2 on the top, 1 on the bottom like this:
> 
> ...



Try making your browser window wider, then they will be in one line.
When wrapped the labeling is:
pic1 pic2
pic3


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## Bigpal (Jul 17, 2012)

It's an ipad-no adjusting. Thanks for the clarification. :twothumbs:


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