# E2e bulb replacement



## rooster.5 (Feb 27, 2008)

I was thinking of changing the lamp assembly in my E2e with a Lumens Factory 7.2 volt assembly. Supposedly rated at 150 lumens. Battery requirements call for 2 x rcr123a rechageable batteries. Do I use 3.6 volt batteries,or can I still use 3 volts. I,m kinda lost when it comes to volts ,mAhs and such. Thanks for any info on this matter.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Feb 27, 2008)

rooster.5 said:


> I was thinking of changing the lamp assembly in my E2e with a Lumens Factory 7.2 volt assembly. Supposedly rated at 150 lumens. Battery requirements call for 2 x rcr123a rechageable batteries. Do I use 3.6 volt batteries,or can I still use 3 volts. I,m kinda lost when it comes to volts ,mAhs and such. Thanks for any info on this matter.


You should use 3.6/3.7v only with the 7.2v lamps. Get the HO-E2A if you want to use 3v batteries in your E2e. You can also use one 17670 li-ion battery with either the HO-E1R or the EO-E1R. All great setups.


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## Varriano (Feb 27, 2008)

IIRC, there are two conversions for the E2E. The first is using an LF bulb and two RCR 123's 3.7v (got mine from AW). The other is the conversion from fivemega using his bulb/socket kit and a 17670 (also available from AW in the dealer section).

I have both and the LF is a bit brighter by my unscientific eye.


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## KeyGrip (Feb 27, 2008)

LumensFactory makes two lamps that take 2xrcr123 and one that takes 3v primairies.


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## Chrontius (Feb 27, 2008)

*Comprehensive list of E2e bulb replacements*

So, can we get a comprehensive E2e upgrade list?

Fivemega's Strion/TL3 upgrade, for 18650 or 2xrCR123a batteries, 

Lumens Factory HO-E2A for primary cells, or their many for rCR123a cells.

Mini-Tower LED mod

Fivemega's 18500 body/bulb combination - here

All these require investing in a new rechargeable battery system, save the one Lumens Factory upgrade (and I'm not sure where the LED project stands) - is that it?


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## WildChild (Feb 27, 2008)

I got the fivemega kit but I need to wait for another TL-3 bulb as the one that came with it was bad...  With CR123A, the bulb worked 3-4 turn on then failed. No apparent sign of failure but the filament is probably not welded correctly. As I didn't have my AW RCR123A, I tested it with CR123A. It appears as bright as the MA03 but it's much more yellow. I got the RCR123A today but now I have no bulb to test them...  Streamlight is supposed to send me a replacement one and I bought 2 others from a CPF member. I also bought a LumensFactory EO-E2R (150 bulb lumens) to test it and compare it with the TL-3 bulb. I'll post pictures with my camera on manual mode when I get everything!


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## Chrontius (Feb 27, 2008)

And now for a personal question: what's better, the stock bulb, which is rated at ... maybe half-dead batteries and after optics losses, at 60 lumens, or the Lumens Factory bulb that's rated at 110 lumens with no inefficiency and fresh batteries?

EDC light, occasional use scenario, lots of bright is good, but I won't say no to runtime. Part of EDC duty is also tactical-light duty, may I never need it.


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## rooster.5 (Feb 28, 2008)

Thanks for all the great information! I have a HO-E1A and an HO-E2A on the way!:twothumbs


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## KeyGrip (Feb 28, 2008)

Chrontius said:


> And now for a personal question: what's better, the stock bulb, which is rated at ... maybe half-dead batteries and after optics losses, at 60 lumens, or the Lumens Factory bulb that's rated at 110 lumens with no inefficiency and fresh batteries?



They're both great lamps and fit the bill output and overall quality wise, so determining which is better for you depends on some other characteristics. I choose LF lamps because they're cheaper and some are made for rechargeable cells, they only kind I use in my incandescent lights. They're driven harder to gain some "whiteness" at the cost of overall lamp life.


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## Chrontius (Feb 28, 2008)

KeyGrip said:


> They're both great lamps and fit the bill output and overall quality wise, so determining which is better for you depends on some other characteristics. I choose LF lamps because they're cheaper and some are made for rechargeable cells, they only kind I use in my incandescent lights. They're driven harder to gain some "whiteness" at the cost of overall lamp life.



Are the LF bulbs actually brighter? The standards of measurement are so different, I don't think the lumen numbers can be compared. I'm inclined ATM to get the Surefire, and pay extra for being able to pick it up in person within 10 minutes of home. I don't particularly care about rechargeable, since I mostly use primary cells unless it's a AA light.


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## KeyGrip (Feb 28, 2008)

Since you're using primary cells, go with the SureFire lamp, the LumensFactory HO-E2A will not be brighter. You have to do some estimation and re-rating to compare the outputs, but the answer stays the same.


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## SureAddicted (Feb 28, 2008)

KeyGrip said:


> Since you're using primary cells, go with the SureFire lamp, the LumensFactory HO-E2A will not be brighter. You have to do some estimation and re-rating to compare the outputs, but the answer stays the same.




Thanks for that bit of info. I'm picking up my E2D tomorrow and was wondering which LA was brighter using primaries. I'll stick with SF LA until I get the RCR123/EO-E2R combo.


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## rooster.5 (Feb 28, 2008)

Let me ask a dumb question. Can you define 'primary 'cells for me please ,and excuse my ignorance at the same time? Thanks


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## JosephK (Feb 28, 2008)

rooster.5 said:


> Let me ask a dumb question. Can you define 'primary 'cells for me please ,and excuse my ignorance at the same time? Thanks



The simple definition is that they're not rechargeable. It's any type of chemical based cell where you can't reverse the reaction that actually produces the energy. They use up some of the materials inside the cell and just aren't capable of "putting themselves back together" again. If you were to try and reverse (recharge) them, the chemicals and gasses within the cell could very well explode.

Following that naming convention, you might hear rechargeable batteries referred to as SECONDARY cells. 

As a side note, which I'm sure you're already aware of, often times primaries have different nominal voltage than secondary cellls. 

For example:
Primary Alkaline = 1.5volt, Secondary Alkaline = 1.2volt
Primary CR123A = 3 volt, Secondary RCR123A = 3.7 volt


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## rooster.5 (Feb 28, 2008)

Thanks Joseph.


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## Chrontius (Feb 28, 2008)

Also, primary cells are rated at close to their ideal, fresh-and-unloaded voltage, wheras rechargeable cells are apt to run at close to their rated voltage for most of their discharge.


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## eshishlo (Feb 29, 2008)

I have noticed that my E2e has a bit of a donut hole in the center when I am closer than 10 feet to the target. It doesn't happen with any other surefire I have. I was wondering if I need to replace my bulb or is that the nature of the light?


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## dougie (Mar 1, 2008)

Surefire E2e bulbs typically last 30+ hours but this can be much shorter or longer depending on usage and/or luck.

If you look at the bulb you may well see a brown or black color towards the front of the bulb. This is a clue that the bulb is nearly spent and you should be thinking about replacing it. 

Of course some people may be happy using a bulb until it burns out before replacing it to maximize their financial investment. Others like me work out an average life expectancy of the bulb and replace it after a set number of battery changes. Whilst this is no guarantee of premature bulb failure it tends to be a good practice if you depend on the light working when you need it for life or death situations.

The Surefire E2e bulbs tend to be some of the most reliable and longest lasting of the Surefire incandescent bulb range. They usually will take shock well and don't normally have problems with donut holes....YMMV?

Doug


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## eshishlo (Mar 1, 2008)

The E2e I have is brand new. I actually have 2 and one has a pretty big donut hole while the other one is much better. I tried switching bulbs and they come out the same. One has a hole while the other is better, but still not as smooth as a 6P. Could the problem be in the reflector?


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## dougie (Mar 1, 2008)

I must say I'm surprised by your two E2e examples. I have two E2e's and numerous spare lamps and I have never had any examples with donut beams.

I'm guessing that it may be a problem with the bezel but don't know if I've been lucky with my examples or there might indeed be an issue with rogue E2e beam shapes?

hope others can help?

D-


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