# Review: Manker MK34 - 12 XP-G3, 3x18650 Floodlight. For submission in review forum



## Budda (Sep 1, 2016)

I received the Manker MK34 curtesy of Manker for the review.

Manker Provides these specs:
Features:
- Emitter: 12x Cree XP-G3 / 12x Nichia 219B (two version for your choice)
- Maximum output: 8000 lumens (Cree XP-G3 LED) / 6500 lumens (Nichia 219B LED)
- Maximum beam intensity: 20000cd (Cree XP-G3 LED),
- Maximum beam distance: 280M
- Waterproof: IPX-8 (2 meter under water)
- Impact resistance: 1.5meters
- Working voltage: 2.8v - 4.35v (Over discharge protection)
- Driver: Most efficiency constant current circuit
- Material: Aircraft-grade aluminum body
- Surface treatment: Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
- Lens: Toughhened ultra-clear glass lens with anti-reflective coating
- Tail stand

Specifications:
Brightness Levels /Runtime (Cree XP-G3 LED): 
Moonlight: 0.1-30lumens, 2month-5days; Low: 120lumens, 30hrs; Medium1: 500lumens, 7.5hrs; Medium2: 1000lumens, 3.5hrs; High 2500lumens 2h, Turbo 8000lumens; Strobe 8000lumens.
The light comes in this brown simple case








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I got the XP-G3 CW version. A Nichia NW version is also available.





The light is well protected inside the box. 

A very long instruction manual in English and Chinese. There are also spare orings and a lanyard.

And finally, the MK34.



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The anodization colour? I’ll describe is as a light grey.

The 3 optics with 4 leds each. Above each optic there is an AR treated glass. The metal bezels on my sample were not locked and I was able to unscrew them with my hands. The triangular shaped head also works as an anti rolling device.





The tailcap is flat





Double golden springs at the negative side of the batteries.





Anodized threads came greased. They allow physical lockout of the light





The body can be furtherly took apart. I tried to remove the tailcap but it feels locked. I believe there is some thread locker between the parts.
Under the switch there’s a blue led.

Big golden contact point at the head. Button top cells only.



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On one side, there is the tripod mount. For me this is the ideal posizion, since I can mount it on a tripod and use the light inclined (for example, when it is mounted on the tailcap, it has a shorter range of motion on the tripod).



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Before anyone asks, there are no handles available. 
A handle mounted on the tripod screw will not make a lot of sense when holding the light because you will have to let the grip go from the handle to the light in order to reach the switch, or use 2 hands.

If you notice, until now there was not indications about size. No size comparison.
If you keep it in your hand by itself, you don’t realize how compact it is, trust me.
The light is 98 mm long, the head has a max diameter of 55 mm.
I started to be amazed when I make some comparison pics: 
Convoy C8, Manker U11, Armytek Wizard V2, Manker MK34.






The head is reasonably bigger (55 mm).
Convoy C8, Manker U21, Manker MK34, Nitecore TM16GT.





I’ve handled many lights during the last years. However, this light looks… strange. When I screw the head on the body, I have the feeling I am joining 2 parts from different lights… a Frankenlight!





The overall size is very small, as you could tell from the above pics.
I have medium sized hands (EU size), and the body of the light feels just fine in my hand. 
I usually find lager batteries bodies not so comfortable keep in hand (especially for longer period of time), and heavier. 





With the light in hand, the finger points directly at the switch on the head.




The switch protrudes slightly from the surface. It requires a bit more pressure to work than most of other lights. No problem for the fingers, and avoid accidental activation (although physical lockout is possible).

UI




1.When the flashlight is off, one click, access to moonlight mode (left part of the figure), one click to circle: Moonlight - Low - Medium 1 - Medium 2 - High. Long press for light off.*
2. When the flashlight is off, long press to access to the mode your last use as in left part of the figure (Memory function), one click for circle. Long press for off.
3. When the flashlight is off, double click access to Turbo, one click for circle. Long press for light off.
4. When the flashlight is on, double click to switch between the two groups (left and right part of the figure)

Basically, the UI is very similar to the one of the other Manker lights, but it has improved: you keep access to the lowest mode and the last used mode… but finally you can directly access to turbo mode.

When the battery is running low the LED under the switch will be purple (<50%), and later on red(<20%).

*if you are in high, and keep pressing the switch, the light will switch levels in this order: high, mid2, mid1, low, moonlight.

The output of the moonlight mode is 0.1 – 30 lumens because using the engineering mode (indicated in the graph) you can change it.

Beamshots in the real world (where the tripod screw comes handy).
The usual disclaimer: I am a terrible photographer. 
To the my eye the pics with 4” of exposure are a bit overexposed, and the ones with 2” of exposure are underexposed. So try to imagine something in between the two images. 
The purpose of my image is to catch the type of the beam and his more relevant aspects.










The log of the tree you can see around a bit on the right from the center of the pic is 100 meters from the position of the light, measured with google maps. I measured roughly the same distance with my laser telemeter (the max distance is 100 meters for this instrument, and I got 97 meters a few meters from the tree). 
So I believe that this distance is accurate.






























At high mode I could see the ground up to 75 meters, and up to 100 (97ish) at turbo mode.

























Sorry for the blurry pics. The danger of putting the tripods on a freshly ploughed field. 
No surprises here. 12 XP-G3 in very small optics, will give a very wide and smooth beam.





Output and Runtime
Manker recommends using unprotected high drain 18650 batteries with the MK34.
For the testing I used 3 LG HG2 battery.




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I found the output declared by Manker to be underestimated for low, mid1, mid2 and hi mode, but I couldn’t get the 8000 lumen they measured at the turbo mode.
I went back to my old setup with a bigger and more empty room (which I moved away because the setup 2 is in a smaller room which allows to read lower values from less potent lights), and I got improved readings for all levels. 
In the next days I will try again changing the setup, even different batteries.
Meanwhile there is no meaning holding back this review.
I will update this review and the graphics if and when I will get different results, as I did in the past.

Sampling is every 2” for turbo and high mode, every 6” for mid2.



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After the runtime test at High mode, I measured 3.06 resting volts for each battery, and 3.04 volt after Turbo and med2. Always above the minimum voltage recommended for li-ion.
When you have a thousand lumens coming from a small light, expect it to be hot. 
When you have thousandS lumens coming from a small light, expect it to be very, very hot.
Also, after the test at Turbo mode the outer plastic ring at the head, that protects against polarity inversion, fell off. There were tiny signs of glue that could not survive the heat. 
I won't spend a second gluing it back on my sample, since on my cells the negative pole of the light is always recessed.

My thoughts.
The light is well built, and has a very distinguishable design.
I believe this is one of the light with higher output/size ratio of the multi emitter multi battery segment on the market at the moment.
Usually I don’t have trouble putting in a pocket of my winter jacket a bigger light, like a King, a Eagletac SX25L3 MT-G2, or a Kalrus G30. This light is even smaller (not only shorter, but the triangular cut head saves size and weight compared to a circular head).
The light is very well regulated, as I expected from Manker.
Even if I was not able to get close to their 8000 lumens measurement, you can’t tell this light has a low output. 
It would be nice to have a 3000 lumens continuous output… but you can’t hold a flashlight once your hand is melted  
The runtime is really good. This light will give you, after the stepdown, 2000 lumens for almost 2 hours at high mode, and a bit more than 1300 for 4 hours. Both with flat regulation.
I really like that this light works with batteries in parallel configuration. This configuration is safer and allows you to run the light with 1 or 2 18650 (the output may fade depending on the quality of the light, and the runtime will be much lower, but in emergency I can do so; for example I can take out one of the 18650 and use it in another light or device).
The UI is improved: finally a light from Manker where I can access low, last used and turbo mode. I hope they keep this UI for their next lights.
I like the 2 tint options, although I would like to have a warmer option than 5000K (but with good CRI). After all the testing, I plan to change the emitters on my sample with something around 3500K.

The only issue I have with this light is very picky on the size of the battery.
The first try I did with LG MJ1 with a 3 mm magnet on top (since they are flat top). I use this system in all lights that require button top (like the Nitecore TM16GT).
The MJ1 with the magnet was too long for the MK34, and I discover it when I pulled out of the light the battery, it had the positive pole pushed in and the magnet was no slightly protruding from the surface of the positive pole (and the light worked). 
So I took 3 LG HG2 and put some solder on top of them, this way they are button top AND shorter than having a magnet on top. 
After the testing they were fine (not crushed), althought they had some small marks on the negative pole, and the wrapping was getting damaged. 
This is not a problem because changing the wrapping of an unprotected battery takes 30 seconds.
Well, I wanted a short light and I have to use short batteries.
My advice is to pick short batteries AND to not overtight the head on the body when the batteries are in place.

I'd like Manker to provide a holster for this light.
Apart from this small details, this is a really well put toghether light. From the construction to the light that produces, to how it produces it.
The price is very reasonable, considered the segment of the light.

I hope I can test the nichia version of the light and make some comparatives.

In this video is summarized the review. Skip to 8:30 to see the light in action briefly


Thanks to: AntoLed for the camera and the luxmeter, Zampa for the tripod.


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## msim (Sep 1, 2016)

I'm amazed by the size comparison, especially since I have a C8 sitting on my desk - so I can easily visualize this light. Thanks for getting the initial review up so fast! Looks like if QC is good on units going to the public, this is a real winner.


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## SG Hall (Sep 1, 2016)

Thank you for the excellent, thorough and entertaining review Budda. I would be interested to know the turbo output of the Nichia as the XPG3 measured lumens are similar to the claimed Nichia output. 

What must be said is that this is a tiny light with mighty output and good runtime after step down. It's an original design and finally a good UI on a Manker light! Do we know the price of this light yet? This is high on my shopping list. [emoji3]


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## Budda (Sep 1, 2016)

The price is 129$ on manker website and HKequipment.


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## SG Hall (Sep 1, 2016)

Budda said:


> The price is 129$ on manker website and HKequipment.



Thanks for that, it seems like great value.


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## maukka (Sep 2, 2016)

Thanks a lot, that was fast! You just got this light.


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## akhyar (Sep 2, 2016)

Thanks for the excellent review and beamshots.
Finally Manker listened to users comments to have direct access to Turbo.
Thumbs up to them but the use of button-top only batteries is a bit of a letdown


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## Budda (Sep 2, 2016)

all lights with batteries arranged in parallel works this way.
either you do this or add a battery carrier (more weight, bigger light).

I don't remember reading a complain about having to use button top cells in a king.

_Error in describing the UI: you can actually switch from turbo to regular output modes with a double click as Manker tells_


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## CelticCross74 (Sep 2, 2016)

thanks for the review Budda! Wow what a light! Having to solder cells to make them work is just bad a buyer of this light should not have to resort to magnets and blobs of solder. The UI as laid out in the manual looks like a map there are so many options. To me it has the UI of a Rubiks Cube it would drive me crazy. I do like how Manker designed such a high output light that compact. Looking at your run time charts it only seems to hold max output for 30 seconds. Regardless this is actually a good competitor to the M43 Noctigon Meteor.


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## Budda (Sep 2, 2016)

The 2 plots are practically a match. there is no thermal regulation on this light.


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## Budda (Sep 3, 2016)

Skip to 8.30 to see the light briefly in action.


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## chumanji9 (Sep 6, 2016)

Nice compact little light. I wonder if it would make a good bike light. It look so small that it would fit on the handle bar.


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## Budda (Sep 7, 2016)

Too heavy for an handlebar.


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## Clinda (Sep 20, 2016)

Got 219B version 2 days ago. Smaller than I thought before. Nice toy.


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## Sen0rphil (Nov 19, 2016)

Comparison Beam shots between the Olight X7 and 2 LED flavours of mk34. Thanks to the reviews by going gear.


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## Sen0rphil (Nov 19, 2016)

I have purchased the nichia 219b version.


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## RollerBoySE (Nov 19, 2016)

Sen0rphil said:


> Comparison Beam shots between the Olight X7 and 2 LED flavours of mk34. Thanks to the reviews by going gear.



The pictures shows something not everybody is aware of: 
High CRI helps more than some extra lumens when it comes to be able to see details.


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## Sen0rphil (Nov 20, 2016)

A perfect example of this... [emoji7]


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## MonkY (Dec 19, 2016)

I just got two Manker MK34 (one with Nichia 219b and one with XP-G3), and although i love the build quality, i think they are cheating with this one. First of all, i have compared your MK34 8000 lumens flashlight with my old Olight SR Mini Intimidator II (a 3200 lumens flooder). MK34 on Turbo is actually less bright than the Olight (tested both outside with my friends and also inside with my light meter - HS1010). How is this possible? It should be at least 2x brighter! Not only that, but there is no temperature controlled stepdown like i've seen in the review, but just an ugly instant stepdown after just 30 seconds (tried it like 100 times - it's 30 secs on the clock). The stepdown is so bad that it actually hurts your eyes in the dark. While MK34 goes at about 3x lower brightness (6.300 lux) in just 30 seconds, the Olight Mini Intimidator II steps down gradually after more than 5 minutes and you can hardly notice it. After asking the seller why is this happening (he also posted a chart on his website showing how MK34 steps down after 2.5 minutes or so - not just 30 seconds), he received a message from Manker. They said "yes, it will step down after 30 seconds. This is normal!". So, i am sending these two Manker MK34 back, because i feel cheated and probably never buy a Manker flashlight again. So, please beware!My test using the light meter - both flashlights on turbo:Olight SR Mini Intimidator II (3200 lumens) = 19.000 LUX for over 5 minutesManker MK34 XP-G3 (8000 lumens) = 18.900 LUX for just 30 secondsMy test using the light meter - both flashlights on turbo after 2 minutes:Olight SR Mini Intimidator II (3200 lumens) = 18.900 LUXManker MK34 XP-G3 (8000 lumens) = 6.300 LUX for just 30 seconds


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## Budda (Dec 20, 2016)

you have written the same post on BLF and I will say the same things that they have told you there: the measure of Cd and lux/m does not corrispond to output. 
Also, I have read again my review and I don't find anywhere "thermal controlled stepdown" concept. Would you tell me where you read it?


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## MonkY (Dec 20, 2016)

Budda said:


> you have written the same post on BLF and I will say the same things that they have told you there: the measure of Cd and lux/m does not corrispond to output.


I have got those values from my light meter, model HS1010 (the one i've seen a lot of flashaholics use it). I don't know if they "corrispond" to anything, those are the max values i got from 2 flashlights, compared side-by-side. What i am trying to say is that i don't want to prove anything but the fact that my Manker MK34 is not even close to the 8000 lumens because no matter how you take it, it is lower than Olight SR Mini Intimidator II, who claims to be a 3200 lumens flashlight. And i already said, even if you ignore the light meter values, you can see there is nothing much brighter, while it should be 2.5x more light.


Budda said:


> Also, I have read again my review and I don't find anywhere "thermal controlled stepdown" concept. Would you tell me where you read it?


It's not your fault or your review (which is great, btw - and i should've paid more attention to the graphs). It's the shop i bought from, and other reviews where they used Manker MK34 samples. They all are claiming the dropdown will happen after 2-3 minutes, depending on the temperatures. So i got to the conclusion that there is a thermal controller. But after i bought two of them, they drop down at EXACTLY 30 seconds. No more, no less. So, they are timed.

I appologize if my post troubled you. My intention was only to tell other buyers what they are actualy buying: a flooder that's worst than Olight 3200 lumens but it claims to be 8000, and even then, just for 30 seconds. That's all!


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## Budda (Dec 21, 2016)

I understand the aspect of the stepdown.
However, you can't compare the Lux of 2 flashlights directly hitting the beam. Also, between 50 and 100 lumens, you will see much difference. Between 500 and 1000, you will see less difference, between 2000 and 4000 even less difference, and so on. On my X7 you would not say that the turbo is almost twice as bright as the previous mode, but they are 9000 vs 5500.

If you measure the Cd of one light and then proceed to remove the reflector of the light, you will get 
a completely different reading from the instrument
a completely different beam
a completely different brightness to your eyes, since the eye is heavily affected by beam profiles

but it remains the same light with the same amount of lumens (roughly).
try a ceiling bounce test with several lights, this is the correct test for measuring the output, and not the intensity.


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## Mr. Tone (Jan 4, 2017)

This was a nice and thorough review. Manker definitely came up with a fairly unique form factor and UI. This looks like a pretty good option for CPF types and also has a good price.


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