# What lights have failed on you?



## kramer5150 (Feb 18, 2008)

Curious...

What lights have you owned that have failed on you?... I am not talking about O-rings that wear out, lenses that scratch or rubber switch cap boots that wear out. I mean flat-out DIE and fail to illuminate as they once did when brand new. Feel free to comment further too. If the failure is the result of user error or excessive abuse feel free to state so.



**edit**
I thought about creating a bar-chart, but that might be difficult if this thread continues to grow at this rapid of a pace. Also, I intentionally limited this to LED lights, knowing that there would be a TON of incan lamp failures polluting the "data", since it is unavoidable at some point... 

Some great feedback everyone!!! keep posting away whenever they crap out THANKS everyone for not making this into a fanboy brand-bashing session. Mods please feel free to delete those comments that derail this thread in such a way.

Also, please try and keep this thread on topic and post "how-too repair" discussions separately.

Not too long ago I was in search of a light for my job inspecting large 8 foot telco-cabinet gear for ISPs. I was on the fence and flat out could not decide how to spend my $$$. This thread helped clear my mind and weed out some strong contenders. I am VERY happy with the choice I made.


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## parnass (Feb 18, 2008)

_These flashlights failed to light or went dim suddenly:_

Arc AAA-P DS (received dead from Arc, replaced by Arc)
Peak 3-LED Matterhorn (replaced by Peak)
River Rock 1AA 1 watt - died after 2nd battery (replaced by dealer)

_These flashlights became intermittant shortly after purchase:_

Gerber Tempo (returned to dealer for refund)
Inova X1 2nd generation (replaced by dealer)
Inova T1 tailcap (tailcap replaced by Inova)

Note: All the failures above occurred within the last 2 years.

Lost 2 Maglites due to alkaline battery leakage.
Maglite Solitaire became intermittant


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## kongfuchicken (Feb 18, 2008)

Magcharger switch went fubar; granted, it was used with a WA1160 with high capacity nimh cells which weren't exactly stock but still... the switch never got hit or even used heavily.

Dorcy 3 led stopped working after the switch took a hit on a rock.

In both these cases, I was left out in the dark with an arc aaa to find my way back.


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## Lightraven (Feb 18, 2008)

Mini Mags--several
Arc AAA
Fenix P2D CE
Surefire M6
Tektite Trek 2


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## NeonLights (Feb 18, 2008)

ARC AAA-P, intermittent problem which showed up after some use, about the same time ARC went under as a company.

Inova X0, dropped 2'-3' onto a wood floor in my attic, never worked again. I was disgusted, sold it in non-working condition for $10-15, didn't feel like going through the hassle of a warranty return.

Several AA and D Maglites due to battery leakage. I take partial responsibility as I would sometimes leave the batteries in the lights for several years without checking/replacing them.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Feb 18, 2008)

Fenix P1.


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## EuroBeetle (Feb 18, 2008)

E1B,flashed a couple of times and went to half brightness and not a battery or contact problem.Used DE-Oxit still no go.Returned for credit.


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## Manzerick (Feb 18, 2008)

The first was my U2.. I was using it to light up an abandoned night club and >poof< nothing. It was about 10 degrees out and I assumed it was the cold. Once I got back on here, MANY infomred me it was the tailcap.... yada...yada... Surefire sent a new one... yada.... yada... good as new!!! 


The second was a M1 when they first came out. The dam thing had gremilins!!!! On... off.. flicker... it had them all if memory serves. It was a PITA to get another but I finally did and it was awesome!!!


I guess two happy endings!!!


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## Kiessling (Feb 18, 2008)

Several older LedLenser models ... for various reasons of bad engineering


SF U2 ... emitter melted and the light became dimmer and dimmer

Arc LS rev2 ... flooded in pool and died

Fenix L1P ... simply stopped. Couldn't find out why.

MR-X ... loose solder contact, was repaired by hotbeam

bernie


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## FlashSpyJ (Feb 18, 2008)

First was a 4D maglite, switch failure, had it in the trunk of my car. Guess some moist got in there. Never really worked well again. At that time I didnt know you could remove the switch.
A couple of lights after that, the ones I remember are the ones I smashed...


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## Matt Sutton (Feb 18, 2008)

Fenix E0
Civictor


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## frank777 (Feb 18, 2008)

*LiteFlux LF3* - Would drain the battery (with no use) in 2 days. Was replaced by the dealer, and the second one worked fine.

*Ultrafire Luxeon Rebel* w/ side switch - switch failed after about 2 months.

*MagLite 3C* - It fell off the back of my motorcycle at 60 miles an hour, and bounced all over the pavement, but still worked. Later it rolled off the top of my roof, hitting the concrete walkway, but still worked. In mid-step between boulders in a cave in Oregon, without warning, it failed. It was probably the lightbulb, but as I was trying to change the lightbulb, I dropped the flashlight on the rocks below. Had to be rescued as I was in the darkness with no backup flashlight. That's when I became an LED flashlight fanatic. And I ALWAYS carry a backup.


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## Manzerick (Feb 18, 2008)

frank777 said:


> *LiteFlux LF3* - I was trying to change the lightbulb, I dropped the flashlight on the rocks below. Had to be rescued as I was in the darkness with no backup flashlight. That's when I became an LED flashlight fanatic. And I ALWAYS carry a backup.




Good thing it wasn't life or death!!!!


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## Max Brightness (Feb 18, 2008)

fenix L2P


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## Dadof6 (Feb 18, 2008)

2 Jet Beams.

Great lights, all of the sudden one day, poof they were gone.


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## cv3po (Feb 18, 2008)

Gerber Reactor was my first..............first Luxeon (holy green [email protected]) and first complete failure. Just didn't turn on one day and never again. Then there was a SF 6P, which did in fact fall onto concrete hard enough to dent the bezel. Bulb blown, worked fine with a new bulb. The only other light that went  was a no-name luxeon headlamp that I tried to mod by removing the resistor. Instant !

EDIT: Oh yeah, the first run of the photon proton sucked bung. The switch failed quickly on mine and the UI was quite buggy. Almost forgot about that one


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## nerdgineer (Feb 18, 2008)

Excluding 99 cent store lights and the like...

2 Kroll switches for an Arc LS (which worked great as a twisty), the switch on an old 4D mag lite, and the switch on an even older 4D Kel lite. Also, a fairly new Gerber LX 1.0 which just stopped working one day. Gerber replaced it promptly with a new one.

If light were important, I would have a spare, or a twisty, or both...


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## jezzyp (Feb 18, 2008)

Fenix L1P- intermittent, I still can't find the cause
electrolumens blaster junior - switch failure
Maglite aa - duracell alkaline batteries leaked
dealextreme key chain lights - but at 25p what else should I expect?
Everready bike lamps when I was a kid (the ones that took 2 D cells)


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## Echo63 (Feb 18, 2008)

the only lights that have really failed have been my SL stinger and Pila GL3XR

the stinger worked wonderfully as a duty light, until one night i dropped it onto carpet before starting my shift, then it wouldnt turn off unless i took the battery out 
i never bothered getting it fixed, just replaced it with the GL3XR the next day
after 2ish years of being used on duty the switch in the Pila became unreliable, it still works, but there is a 50/50 chance it wont turn on.

i have also had the normal Broken globes in maglites, which have left me in the dark temporarily
and i have a Pelican M11 that the globe died in, and i managed to lose the charger before i got a replacement globe


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## Flight_Deck (Feb 18, 2008)

Jetbeam CLE & SolarForce 3xCree.


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## light_emitting_dude (Feb 18, 2008)

Fenix P1 (replaced by vendor)
Several lights from DX
Lumapower F1 SSC version threads started to seize on 2 spearate units. (replaced by vendor)


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## Chucula (Feb 18, 2008)

Surefire e2e failed three times on me. First the tailcap got stuck and my brother took it apart and fixed it. The bulb burned out twice on me as well. 

I only use LEDs now 

EDIT: LED failures...huh...


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## Gunner12 (Feb 18, 2008)

I've had one light fail, and it was due to repeated abuse(the circuit broke).

It was an Eastwardyj U2 style Cree. The switch and LED both work fine, the circuit broke after it landed on asphalt after a 10 ft(?) fall(that was after it was throw countless times and kicked around countless times).

It's fixed now with a 3 mode driver and a Q5 emitter.


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## Bror Jace (Feb 18, 2008)

Chrome River Rock 2AAA 0.5W Nichia ... never worked right out of the box ... but River Rock replaced it free, no questions asked. :twothumbs

Garrity 9 LED (3AAA) ... the battery caddy started to fall apart. I figured that if i tightened the caps down good, that would keep the battery carrier inside together enough so that the light would still work. That was correct ... but the over-tightening soon stripped the plastic threads ... and now I have a collection of semi-useless parts. 

I have had 4 Magiltes stop working on account of leaky batteries ... but iIbrought all 4 back to working condition with patience, beating and cleaning. 

I put a Li-Ion cell (14500) in a Romisen RC-G2 Cree light and it burnt out in about 30 seconds. :mecry:

I bought 3 19 LED "Raindancer" lights from DAE ... all 3 were junk. One didn't work at all, one flickered and the last went  when I first turned it on ... I might have had the battery caddy in backwards. Cheap trash ... the only DAE lights I got that were lemons.


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## zipplet (Feb 18, 2008)

Fenix E0 - inductor broke off the board, common fault with this light
Energizer 2xAA rubber incandescent - bulb blew when I dropped it in the walk-in freezer at work. I tell you it's NOT nice to be in one of those with no light when there is ice on the floor!
Fenix L2D-CE - when I put the batteries in backwards by mistake >_<
Maglite solitaire - used to be my reading light and this thing liked to eat bulbs like candy. Then the switch got intermittent and no matter how well I cleaned it, even taking the bulb holder apart, it no longer works that well

Hmm most of my lights are reliable in general and the ones that did break have been replaced or repaired (thanks ledkings / 4sevens!!!) so none down for the count.


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## Hodsta (Feb 18, 2008)

Fenix P1D - just went dead while taking a walk, never got round to investigating.
Surefire E1L - tailcap bust 

I also completely wrecked a RAW NS when the LE module fell out, but when I put it back in it wasn't seated properly and screwing the light down sheared the dome off - 100% user error by a 200% clutz.


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## Hitthespot (Feb 18, 2008)

I have lost more lights than have quit on me but some of the more notible are

Mag 2C---Switch I believe.

Mag 2D--Switch again.

Pelican 4D or 8D can't remember---Only worked correctly for a short time.


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## whitecloud (Feb 18, 2008)

Streamlight Stylus Pro 2. The tail switch failed after a week. Returned it, the tail switch just failed on the second unit after 10 weeks.


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## revv11 (Feb 18, 2008)

HDS EDC B40 -- switch
Surefire U2 -- switch
Jetbeam -- still haven't figured this one out
Ultrafire 602C Q5 5-Mode - loose components.
Minimag hotwire -- broken pill


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## BytorJr (Feb 18, 2008)

Fenix P1 (original series). I may have overheated it one time.


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## Burgess (Feb 18, 2008)

I have a Kel-Lite 2-D cell flashlight which will drain a set
of Alkalines in a month, even if never switched to ON.


Spent more time than it deserves, attempting to find & fix the problem.

:hairpull: ___ 



Now, i simply store one of the Alkaline cells "backwards".


When the flashlight is needed, i just reverse that cell.


This is a spare, spare light in my vehicle, so it's not a *big* deal.


But i admit, i've often considered just *throwing it AWAY !*



*_*


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## woodrow (Feb 19, 2008)

Heleotek HT1 Switch stopped working after a couple of days.

Streamlight Twin Task 2x123a Xenon and leds First one led stopped working than two...then third strobed like a disco...kind of cool.

MRV SE Digital Tailcap lost threads with in putting it on/taking it off to change the batteries on the fourth time.

Those are my only TOTAL failures...had other strobing, won't work until you unscrew the bezel 1/4 turn on various lights (mainly Lumapower) but these did not leave me totally in the dark.


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## TORCH_BOY (Feb 19, 2008)

I had a Fenix L1T just go dead on me, I pulled it apart and found that the inductor came loose.


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## TORCH_BOY (Feb 19, 2008)

Just remembered, I have had many ebay lights fail on me, faulty switches,
blown Leds and crossed threads


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## Kilovolt (Feb 19, 2008)

Fenix P1 after a couple of days of normal use. It was replaced by the dealer.


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## V8TOYTRUCK (Feb 19, 2008)

X990 (no light - Bulb or ballast )
Eternalight - water damage

Thats it! 
I have however sent in a PT Corona for a broken clip. The light still worked. 
Ultrastinger for a new switch, bubbled lens (needed new battery)

Surefire, Streamlight, Fenix, and PT has never let me down.


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## BigHonu (Feb 19, 2008)

Arc AAA - just stopped working one day.

Fenix L1P - intermittent flicker that I still have not figured out.


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## TorchBoy (Feb 19, 2008)

kramer5150 said:


> If the failure is the result of user error or excessive abuse feel free to state so.


Well... in a caving trip I did last year I found myself hanging by my helmet which was jammed front-back in a squeezey bit, and the home made light on the front of the helmet didn't fare too well at that treatment. A wire (actually a whole solder pad) got ripped off the LED and I was left in darkness to undo my helmet strap and drop to the ground.

The dead LED was only a K2, though, so I replaced the broken bits in the housing, replaced the homemade regulator with something from DX, and replaced the LED with a Cree XR-E... and on a caving trip last month _that_ light died as well. The housing couldn't cope with the half or three quarter hour wriggle into the cave and with all the battering it came apart, leaving the LED and reflector exposed. The heatsink dropped off the back of the star (so much for the OEM thermal adhesive tape on it!), then a wire got ripped in two where it was attached to the regulator board - too much flexing between the soldered end of the wire and the insulation-covered section.

I've since bought some solid copper wire instead of the multi-strand stuff I had used there, and I've now got this idea that a 5mm LED permanently wired would be a good idea.

And many years ago I went on a trip where the four of us managed to kill five and a half of the six lights we had with us. (I've already posted about that trip but I honestly cannot find it.)


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## Crenshaw (Feb 19, 2008)

some guts to be going into a cave with home made light, i suggest setting the whole thing in epoxy...except the batteries. .

My G2Z almost failed right out the the package. Its Tail switch failed, a twistie! . A P61 instaflashed right out of the packet too on the G2Z, good thing i was testing it at the store..they replaced it for me.

My first Leef body for P1D also seemd to have a faulty mcclicky... but that was the least of my problems...

Crenshaw


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## Monocrom (Feb 19, 2008)

With the exception of a couple of No-Name, el-cheapo LED cluster lights; my worst failure was from a 3D Maglite.

This was a few years ago, before I became a flashaholic. Back when I thought there was nothing better than a Maglite. 

I kept it underneath and to the side of the Driver's seat in my car. After about three years, I went to inspect it; to see if the batteries were still good.

First, it failed to light up. Then, the rubber switch boot literally popped out. (Couldn't get it to go back in). Unscrewed the tailcap to check the cells. Threads somehow got stripped! Couldn't re-attach the tailcap. Decided to check to see if perhaps the bulb was damaged. Unscrewed the head. Give you one guess what happened next.... Yup! More stripped threads! I couldn't believe it! 

The light literally fell apart in my hands! 

My G.E. brand 2D, disposable flashlight has been with me for about 10 years. It cost me $1.99 (batteries not included), and I picked it out of a barrel containing the same model. It proved _far _more reliable than my 3D Maglite. 

Needless to say, I don't rely on Maglite as my primary flashlight anymore.


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## TorchBoy (Feb 19, 2008)

Crenshaw said:


> some guts to be going into a cave with home made light, i suggest setting the whole thing in epoxy...except the batteries.


I have store-bought backups, LED of course, and NiMH _and_ alkaline spare batteries. And friends who don't leave me in the dark for long. :wave: The trouble with the epoxy thing is that I'll probably want to change the setup for the very next trip.


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## Chawarito (Feb 19, 2008)

2 mini mags
mini mag LED 2AA
Mag 4D cell with LED (LED faulty)
Mag 2D cell (switch)
Coast Lenser (multiple lights)
Inova X03 (LED went dim)
Inova T1 (Tailcap Problem)
Surefire Kroma (Colors wont light up, then Tailcap Problems on replacement)
Surefire E2e (reflector gets white when hot)
Wolf Eye 6A Rechargeable (electrical short problem)

I have had a great deal of light that have failed on me, though considering how many lights i have purchaced i find the Mag lights and Coast lensers to be the most unreliable.


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## cat (Feb 19, 2008)

It looks like the most common point of failure is the switches. Not surprising.


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## FlashSpyJ (Feb 19, 2008)

I would want to know more about what happened to some of the lights that failed. I saw a M6 and a Fenix E0 but not what happened.


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## Norm (Feb 19, 2008)

Fenix P1 replaced by 7777's :twothumbs
Original CMG infinity replaced by the manufacturer with an Infinity Ultra (still going strong) :twothumbs
Norm


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## Hodsta (Feb 19, 2008)

revv11 said:


> HDS EDC B40 -- switch


 

Rev - I'd be interested in more info on the HDS. I choose this as back up to a PD-S. I figured that if the HDS had a weakness it would be the switch but have not come across many reports of failure.


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## Upplyst (Feb 19, 2008)

Pelican 2AA Mitylite - Lexan body cracked after a small drop. Contacted Pelican years ago, no response.

Pelican M6 LED - Switch most unreliable. And bad fitting parts in the bezel such as lens.


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## Hodsta (Feb 19, 2008)

Chawarito said:


> 2 mini mags
> mini mag LED 2AA
> Mag 4D cell with LED (LED faulty)
> Mag 2D cell (switch)
> ...


 
Chawarito - what do you do to them? I think you may have ruled yourself out of any pasarounds!


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## eebowler (Feb 19, 2008)

Have you ever killed an LED on regular use?


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## kc2ouf (Feb 19, 2008)

I had 2 previous tailcaps on my Gladius fail in the nearly 3 years I've owned the light. Blackhawk replaced both caps without problem, although I waited 6 weeks for the first one due to production delays. They got all the bugs out now. 

Now, on my third, it's working great. I use the light every night for a few minutes while walking the dog, and it stays near my bed at night along with some other things....


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## prof (Feb 19, 2008)

Mags 
4D--batteries drained overnight with light off (twice)
4D (different light)--so long ago I don't even really remember
minimag--no clue why

Brinkman 4D mag clone--switch failure

handful of other cheap ones


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## Crenshaw (Feb 19, 2008)

FlashSpyJ said:


> I would want to know more about what happened to some of the lights that failed. I saw a M6 and a Fenix E0 but not what happened.



most likley the E0's inductor(or was it capacitor?) was cracked by the LED being pushed down or something, it was a problem in the earlier models aparently

Crenshaw


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## mark33 (Feb 19, 2008)

Gladiator Night-Ops tail cap failed but replaced by Night-Ops. Took 5 weeks to arrive though (USA to UK)!

Inova X1 3rd generation failed straight out of packet - kept flashing and would not go into constant on! Sent it back today to dealer for replacement (hopefully)

By the way hello to you all - first post of many :wave:


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## f22shift (Feb 19, 2008)

frank777 said:


> *MagLite 3C* - It fell off the back of my motorcycle at 60 miles an hour, and bounced all over the pavement, but still worked. Later it rolled off the top of my roof, hitting the concrete walkway, but still worked. In mid-step between boulders in a cave in Oregon, without warning, it failed. It was probably the lightbulb, but as I was trying to change the lightbulb, I dropped the flashlight on the rocks below. Had to be rescued as I was in the darkness with no backup flashlight. That's when I became an LED flashlight fanatic. And I ALWAYS carry a backup.


 
that's a nice story


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## arzon (Feb 19, 2008)

I only have a couple of lights (compared to the others here ), MiniMaglite, Maglite Solitaire, 6P, Fenix L0P, Photon Microlight II, G2, Fenix L1D, E2D, and G2LED.

First one to show signs of trouble is the Fenix L0P . Once you turn it on, you may need a few taps/whacks on the palm for it to light up.


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## parnass (Feb 19, 2008)

Welcome to CPF, mark33.


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## kramer5150 (Feb 19, 2008)

Guess I should contribute to my own thread

MagLED-4D: The reflective coating turned hazy and I thought it was moisture. I tried to wipe it off and the metallic coating flaked off the reflector.


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## Lightraven (Feb 19, 2008)

My Surefire M6 was only a few months old and was still on the original batteries when I was attempting to use it for a takedown to the ground/arrest in the dark by my fellow. The MN20 250 lumen bulb exploded as I turned it on, contained by the reflector and window, of course. I switched to my M3.

After getting a new M6 from Surefire, the MN20 bulb started to go very dim on the original batteries, then die--after about 5-10 minutes of run time. I replaced the MN20 with the MN21 500 lumen lamp and wrote Surefire that their MN20 has problems. There was a recall of MN20's soon after. My MN21 continues to function fine with no problems 4-5 years later.


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## Curious_character (Feb 19, 2008)

Every Inova light I've ever owned.

Sooner or later, I get in a hurry and put some batteries in facing the direction they do in all the other flashlights I own. No more Inovas for me.

c_c


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## ausbump (Feb 19, 2008)

My arc aaa-p - flickered and just died (now replaced after several months)

None of my fenix/black diamond/surefire products have failed yet


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## nobody (Feb 19, 2008)

Arc AA (unpredictable twist-on)


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## Scott_T (Feb 19, 2008)

My MTE 5 mode rebel turned dim a couple of weeks ago. I let a friends 2 year old play with it and she left it turned on wrapped up in a blanket and by the time I found it it was very very hot. It intermittently turns bright, I think its the circuit thats bad.


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## BGater (Feb 19, 2008)

My first Tiablo A9, was checking ice on power lines and poof. Cleaned the contacts, changed battery, took off the tailcap and jumped across, it was down for the count. Dealer sent a brand new replacement but I had all I wanted by then and sold it. 

My Fenix L1D switch was acting up one night when I needed it badly. After I got home I found that the switch retaining ring (for lack of a better name) was loose. Tightened it up with micro needle nose and no trouble since. 

Lots of minimag incan bulbs years ago. 

Wheat light head on my Coon hunting light. Had the gearing on the focus on/off knob give out, left me a few miles from anyhere in the dark. Back in those days I didnt carry a backup, young and brave you know. And I was always blowing bulbs in that head but that was my own fault. I was running a 4 volt wheat bulb on a 6 volt 8 amp NiteLite gell with a rheostat switch. It was ok as long as I started it low and let the bulb warm up a bit. If I just grabbed the knob and gave it a crank, out it went. Glad those bulbs had a hi and low filiment !


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## Draven451 (Feb 19, 2008)

Regalight WT1 V2 - Just stopped working one day then intermittently would turn on/off. This was only after having the light for 1 week. I did not do any maintenance use any lube of any kind or make any changes to the light. 

Lighthound quickly sent me out a replacement that seems to work fine.


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## Burgess (Feb 19, 2008)

to *TorchBoy* --


Yes, indeed, i well remember that posting of yours:

_*managed to kill five and a half of the six lights we had with us.*_



In fact, i *often think *about that story ! 


Should be *required reading* for all CPF'ers. :candle:


Whether they *ever* go Caving, or Not ! :wave:




Edited to add:

Just now noticed that we have both a *TorchBoy*,
and a *TORCH BOY*.


Anyone *else* ever get cornfused by this ? ? ?



EndEdit
_


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## zipplet (Feb 19, 2008)

Can someone dig up that post by torch boy? I tried but I can't find it.


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## ghostguy6 (Feb 19, 2008)

Pelican 2AAA Mitylite - cracked body and broken clip
Pelican M6 LED - Several bad switches, im on my 4th switch and hopefully pelican will send me more.
Pelican 2AA Mitylite Plus- wore through rubber boot switch cover in less than a week, I think the boot was defective and unusually thin
Inova X1 - lense fell out and the beam has never been the same since i glued it back in
Streamlight JR. Incan - Switch failed right out of package, threads stripped
2 Mag 2D - switch failures 
AA Minimag- switch failures, thread stripping
There are are also several cheapo incans i was issued to go onto plant sites


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## TorchBoy (Feb 19, 2008)

I try not to get confused by TORCH BOY - he's Australian, after all. 



zipplet said:


> Can someone dig up that post by torch boy? I tried but I can't find it.


I've just tried to find it again. The same search on google.com and google.co.nz. The .com gave me two results, while the .co.nz gave me 68 results. :thinking: And I still can't find it.


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## Burgess (Feb 20, 2008)

Had my Inova X1 (generation 2) die instantly,

when i dropped it onto a hardwood floor, from a height of less than 1 meter.

:shakehead




Failed to make contact with Inova, via e-mail.  ___ :hairpull:



Finally just sent it in (no Return Authorization Number).


Asked them if it could hopefully be REPAIRED, rather than simply REPLACED.


But, alas, a few weeks later, i received an X1 (generation 3) in the mail. (sigh)


Sad, cuz' i *really liked* my Generation 2 model.


Gen 3 seems like a step *backwards*, as far as i'm concerned.


Oh well, let's hope it's sturdier. 

_


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## Evan III (Feb 20, 2008)

3 AA mag led, just died.
several multi led lights,
terra lux 2 AA drop in and tail cap


Hey, I noticed no one has had an Olight fail, or did I miss a post.


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## jezzyp (Feb 20, 2008)

TORCH_BOY said:


> Just remembered, I have had many ebay lights fail on me, faulty switches,
> blown Leds and crossed threads


I didn't even consider those!

Police 7 & cop 9 led lights off scambay failed.


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## kingoftf (Feb 20, 2008)

A Triple-LED-Replacement for my Mag 3D due to electrical conduction problems it was like a jackpot in the lottery to work or not. Had to shake it often to get contact.









While walking with my dog in a canyon the Mag failed and my dog had a very bad contact to a cactus and we spent a few hours to get rid of the spines in his coat.
Was very funny to walk home without any illumination.

Since then I always have a Backup Light in my pocket.


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## 22hornet (Feb 20, 2008)

The only light that failed thusfar was a Fenix L2T (first generation). Couldn't figure out why. I replaced tailcaps and such, but no good 

My other Fenixes worked very well.

Kind regards,
Joris


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## Ray_of_Light (Feb 20, 2008)

Difficult here to recall four decades of flashlight activities...
Most deaths were from battery leakage. Uncounted Lanterns went that route.
Second cause of death were impact on the floor. Third cause, were broken switches. Fourth, I had a "chain of death" of vacuum bulbs when alkaline batteries become mainstream, replacing zinc-carbon cells in my lights.

If I think of last years, I had:

2C MAG, heavy leakage
PT TEC 40, leakage
PT Attitude, leakage
PT Surge on Ni-MH, one battery inserted backward, light melted.
Arc LE, Led failure (after 4 yrs of usage)
SF Z2 and G2, P60 dead after impact.
SF L1, after impacted the floor with tailcap. Switch dead.
SF L4 x 2, impact on floor, LED dislodged from heatsink and melted.
Peak Pacific, DOA (replaced)
Arc LSHP, Kroll killed from leaking DL123 (Yes, genuine Duracell)
Inova T3 (run on 2 x RCR123, immediate death)
Peak Kino Bay (after one night in the fridge)
LC100 (faulty ballast, replaced)
LC100 (defective bulb)

BTW, the list of lights that I killed while attempting to open them is longer.
Want just to mention the most expensive of last months:

2 x Arc4
2 x KL1, domed window type
2 x Fenix L1P (wall too tiny).

Not even tried with U2s. I'm not ready yet for that possible funerals.

I want just to mention there are moments or occasions when lights die all at once. One of these occasion is night hiking. Your light is in your right hand and other then illuminate things, it touches them and get wet always. It is used as an hammer, to move bushes, and so on. 
The same torture happens to headlamps. 
In one night, I was able to kill a number of 6 V lanterns, and all plastic 2D and 3D lights we had. PT lights were extraordinary resistant, INOVA come out marred but working, SF LEDs were pristine with exception of rubber boots; I wonder why they are not considered consumables like batteries. Mag (unmodded) were in use and resisted, but nobody likes them when there is a pool of other lights in use; comparatively they dim quickly and noticeably, in both LED and incandescent versions.

Regards

Anthony


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## jumpstat (Feb 20, 2008)

Mag4D - Due to battery leakage.
Mag2AA - Broken pill, somehow one of its leg just snapped when I changed the bulb.
Mag Solitaire - Broken pill also. Manage to use it about a year.

No issues yet with SF, Inova, etc


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## J!m (Feb 20, 2008)

Mag 2X AAA: It was in such a sad state- my job exposes me, and my gear to large amounts of tungsten carbide and ceramic dust, so the anodize was completely worn off. It got dented (in my tool box with other tools)and I could not get the dead batteries out. It was heated with an oxy-acetylene torch to remove the dents, and we did get the batteries out. New batteries yielded no action, so I sent it back to MAG. Within a few weeks, I received a new, gift-box set from MAG.:thumbsup:

Another was a 3X D light. It just stopped for no reason. Batteries were good, and the bulb was good. So, figuring it was the switch, I sent that back. They cleaned it and replaced the tail cap with a note: "water damage not covered by warranty"; however they did repair it, and it is still working today. I found this funny, as the light is o-ring sealed, and was never submerged...:shakehead

In between I have sent several MAG lites back for repair. They are getting to be more ornery about repairing them, but they always do. They are far from the best lights, but they have a great warranty. I have another one (also 3X D) to go back right now...:wave:

I have since gone over to SureFire, but have not lived with them long enough to break them (yet). I have up-graded my mag 3X D lights with LED drop-ins (mag brand) and these will remain in my truck as the convenient light. If I end up with a SureFire sponsorship, that will change...


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## CandleFranky (Feb 20, 2008)

kramer5150 said:


> Curious... What lights have you owned that have failed on you?


*Olight T10 Q5 - new and defect.*


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## Monocrom (Feb 20, 2008)

Evan III said:


> Hey, I noticed no one has had an Olight fail, or did I miss a post.


 
It just wasn't posted yet.

(Post #77).


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## MSaxatilus (Feb 20, 2008)

I've only had a few that I can think of:

1) An MN21 burned out in about 2 seconds fresh out of the pack from Surefire. That bulb was promptly replaced by Surefire.

2) I dropped my Pelican 7060 which resulted in the switches not working in conjunction with one another, although the light continued to operate normally from the tailswitch. Pelican replaced the entire light package promptly.

3) My recently aquired Surefire E1B would not light up fresh out of the package. Turned out the light was shipped with a dead battery?!?! A quick switch to a new battery quickly solved the problem.

4) A cheapo Chinese light I purchased off of Ebay for $15 dollars lasted about 15 minutes before the LED flickered and went dark forever. I again promptly solved the problem by throwing the POS in the garbage.

Where's all the guys that had exploding CR123 cells? I know there a few guys out there that the lights failed due to the batts exploding.

MSax


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## Monocrom (Feb 20, 2008)

MSaxatilus said:


> 2) I dropped my Streamlight 7060 which resulted in the switches not working in conjunction with one another, although the light continued to operate normally from the tailswitch. Streamlight replaced the entire light package promptly.


 
Do you mean a Pelican 7060?

If Streamlight replaced it, that would make for an interesting story.


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## MSaxatilus (Feb 20, 2008)

Duh, yes Pelican. Story is not nearly as interesting.

Original post changed, per Monocrom's catch.

Thanks,
DAVE


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## Monocrom (Feb 20, 2008)

Happy to help.


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## Thujone (Feb 20, 2008)

My Nitecore Defender Infinity was faulty and is being replaced. Failed within a week.

Also a Jetbeam C-LE v1.2 that i had gifted failed on a friend of mine, it is on its way back to Hong Kong as well. Failed after 6 months of light duty use, never had been dropped. Simply turned off mid-use never to light again.


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## Mike L. (Feb 20, 2008)

HuntLight FT-02XJ. Tailcap clicky switch failure. Seems the coil spring gives out every so often. Repaired by me.
Always carry a backup!

--Mike L.


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## cave dave (Feb 20, 2008)

PT Solo - broken battery cap - still worked if you held it with tape
PT Aurora - broken battery cover - still worked if you held it with tape
Arc AAA (x2) - flaky
ARC LS - flaky
CMG Infinity - flaky
CMG Infinity Ultra - dead on alk and nimh, worked on Li.
UK 4AA eLED - intermittent switch failure
UK 2AAA - flaky contacts
Peak Pacific - flaky, now dead
Fenix L1 - flaky
Surefire U2 - selector Ring failure, only 2 levels
Liteflux LF2- P2 intermittent flakiness
Fauxton - Overdriven LED started pulsing then burned out.
SPY005 - Wrong Firmware installed, excessive drain while off killed batteries.

Maglites all sizes- leaky batteries have ruined a couple and the usual blown bulbs.

The good news is most of the failures would still produce light, it might be dimmer and flickering than expected but still would get you back home safe.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Digital version Photons that would turn themselves on in your pocket and be dead when you needed them.


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## SilverFox (Feb 20, 2008)

First of all, let me say that I have worn out a lot of lights. I don't consider that a failure. 

I also have had several lights die due to battery leakage. I consider that a battery failure that just happens to take out the light as well.

I also don't blame the light when it is subjected to "unusual forces" due to operator error... i.e. dropping it. I have had quite a few lights fail that way.

OK, on to the failure list.

Streamlight LiteBox - 3 switch failures.

I had 24 LiteBox lights for a 6 month job I was working on. 6 of them survived the 6 months. Most of the others were dropped, kicked, run over, and generally abused. Overall, I was quite pleased with their performance. We had our share of burn out lamps and manage to kill the battery off about every 2 months, but they seemed to work very well. The amount of light they put out was awesome, as we were working inside a pipe and did not have power available where we were working. Out of all of these lights, we had 3 that had switch problems which developed after about a month of daily use.

SureFire M1 - LED failure.

The LED developed a dark spot in the beam, and it continued to grow. SureFire replaced the light.

Arc AAA - Circuit board failure in 2 units.

This was the original Arc AAA. I believe there was a grounding issue.

BB400 pill in Mini Mag 2 AA - 3 failures.

I picked up about 40 of the BB400 pills and put them into laser engraved Mini Mags as a promotional give away. I ran a set of batteries through each light before giving it away. I had 1 failure within 5 minutes, 1 failure near the end of the first discharge, and 1 failure after the light had been used for a year and a half. 

TNC Hyperlux V - 2 LED failures.

This is a 3 CR123 light that I usually run with 2 17500 Li-Ion cells. It is pretty much a direct drive light, although I believe there is a resistor in there. The first LED failed after about 6 months of use. The second LED failed after about 1.5 years of use. The third LED is going strong. The mode of failure was similar to an incandescent lamp burning out, but I must say that there is a little more to changing an LED in the field than simply replacing a lamp assembly... 

Dorcy 1 AAA - 1 failure.

I have 4 of these and handed them out to the Boy Scouts for "evaluation" during a camp out I had around 10 hours logged on each of them. Within 5 minutes one of the Scouts came back saying that his light suddenly went out. I handed him a Peak Matterhorn and sent him back out. The circuit board died.

Electrolumens Blaster II - Ground problem.

This light would sometimes fail to come on, and at other times it would suddenly go off. We figured out that it was a ground problem, and it was quickly repaired.

Princeton Tec EOS - Dim output.

My first EOS would not go full brightness after using it for around 150 hours. It seems that the thermal sensor failed and the light thought it was overheating all the time.

Wolf Eyes M300 - Switch failure.

The switch on this light is built into the battery holder. A solder joint failed. I tried to solder it back together, and it quite working all together. A new battery holder with switch is on its way to me.

Energizer 4 AA folding Lantern with 3 LED's Version 3, I think - Hinge is loose.

This is a picky one because the light works just fine, but when I stand it up, it just closes back down. For around $5, I really expected it to last longer than a month.

Milkyspit MC2 - short runtime.

This is another picky one. The MC2 is an emergency light. Low light levels for an extended period of time. I have 4 of these, plus a modified multi color one. I did runtime tests on them and was getting around 1500 hours from a pair of "low drain" 1800 mAh CR123 cells. This one MC2 was struggling at 800 hours. I sent it back to Scott and he mumbled something about changing the LED. When I got it back, it worked very well and was once again giving me the very long runtimes. Mind you, 800 hours is actually pretty good, so I guess we can't call this a real failure.  

That's about it for me.

Tom


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## chewy78 (Feb 20, 2008)

Mag 3d led battery leakage


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## dervishMe (Feb 20, 2008)

Inova X1 died for absolutely no reason.
Christmas 2007 camping trip in Baja, Mexico.
Couldn't be a worst time.


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## Gene (Feb 20, 2008)

Interesting thread kramer5150! It'll be interesting to see which lights have the largest percentage of failures.

Mini Mags! Even the custom mini Mags. Always contact problems sooner or later if used hard. No more for me.

McGizmo HD45-Only one of two McGizmos I've ever owned. Kilroy failure and other contact problems. 

Osram "Golden Dragon" mini lantern. Technically not a failure but cheap construction. Bottom, (battery holder cover), fell off during a camping trip rendering it unusable. Still works but bottom is now held on by a hose clamp.


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## Burgess (Feb 21, 2008)

Certainly not to dispute user Gene and others,


but i've found the 2-AA Mini-Maglite to be *extremely* reliable and dependable.


Been EDC'ing them for 23 years now. My story is here:


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/141266



Perhaps some conditions are tougher than mine, but you *do* know
that a "flickering switch" can be carefully dis-assembled and cleaned, don't you ?


Heck, if *i* can do it, most anyone can. 


Only had to clean a switch once. 'Bout 2 months ago.


Now, *all* flickering is gone. Once again, works perfectly. :thumbsup:




I've upgraded from incands to LED modules, naturally. 


But even when using Bulbs, i'd always inspect them frequently.

Once they got serious "Blackening with age",
i'd replace 'em with a new bulb.


Yes, yes, i know there's a spare bulb in the tail-cap.


But i wanted to replace 'em at MY convenience.


Not in darkness, or in difficult or hazardous conditions / situations.

Know what i mean ? 


And doing this, i *never* had a bulb "die" on me during use.


For more than Twenty Years ! Not bad, eh ?


Of course, your mileage may vary. And probably will. 

:devil:

_


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## Stainz (Feb 21, 2008)

A Snap-On Tools AAAA (Streamlight Stylus), a gift several years back from my b-i-l the mechanic, had continual problems with dirty battery contacts when, on it's third set, it apparently killed the batteries within a week - and two leaked, ruining it. It was handy to have in my range bag for a bore light.

My wife is on her third Dorcy 1xAAA ($5.94 @ WM) as of Tuesday. As a pre-school teacher, it is in her pocket as an EDC. The first one was a leaky battery, the second was a surface mounted 470uH choke lifted from the circuit board... I tried for an hour to resolder it, then went to WM Tuesday.

Stainz

PS I have several Inovas (2 X1s and an X5), more than a few Streamlights, lots of MagLites, several River Rocks, some larger Dorcys, etc, that have never had problems.

PPS Cranial flatulance - my first Inova X1 - a 3g '2.0W' did not just need a new cell - it is < half the brightness of the 2d gen I recently found at Target, yet draws 2.1-3 times, wildly varying, the current from new Rayovac alkaline AA cell. Got an RMA from Inova - so back it goes for another 3rd gen. The only thing I remember doing was leaving it on for the second half of the Super Bowl (~2hr) - and finding it on the floor in my room, where I had left it at half time - it was dim - and never improved with a fresh cell. It was unbelieveably bright - to me.


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## gswitter (Feb 21, 2008)

Fenix E1 - wouldn't turn on after sitting for a few months. Seems to be OK after cleaning.
DX/KD 14500 Fenix clones - one DOA, one flickered constantly (FOA?)
LiteFlux LF2 - consistently flaky P2
ARCmania Extreme III - occasionally flaky P2 _-I don't know what these LiteFlux switches have against me_
NiteCore Defender Infinity - attempt to set user-adjust mode below ~50% by twisting the head always results in minimum setting (but if I cut the power by unscrewing the tailcap - as others have suggested - it works)
DX Cree P60 drop-in - contact issue resulting in occasional failure to power up. Loosening and tightening the bezel usually fixes it, but sometimes it takes more than once.
Lots of incan bulbs - mostly user error


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## tsask (Feb 21, 2008)

a few from LED lenser They gladly replaced my V2.
Streamlight PRO POLY bad switch.
Now my Streamlight Micro Stream has an intermittent failure problem. I've wasted a few AAA cells as a result. I'll probably buy the AVENGER. I like the one handed operation


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## kilgor (Feb 21, 2008)

Olight T-15 Q5.


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## LEDninja (Feb 22, 2008)

HF-1 Compact Cree Flashlight (AAA)
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5823

Was intermittent and died within a week. As big as a Civictor V1 (the bezel end & length) so I did not bother to try to get it replaced. I got an Ultrafire 602C SSC AAA when they became available.


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## Cartman (Feb 22, 2008)

kramer5150 said:


> Curious...
> 
> What lights have you owned that have failed on you?... I am not talking about O-rings that wear out, lenses that scratch or rubber switch cap boots that wear out. I mean flat-out DIE and fail to illuminate as they once did when brand new. Feel free to comment further too. If the failure is the result of user error or excessive abuse feel free to state so.



Most of the failures were DOA out of box from Deal Extreme, but when they're $5, I expect 1 out of 7 to fail from them. 

I guess the problems people have had validate my EDC of not one, but two lights .


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## BigHonu (Feb 22, 2008)

Almost forgot about my 'favorite' dive light: 10D Darrel Allen. One piece body made of cement painted bright yellow with a 1/4 inch plastic window that you had to screw down.

Went spearfishing and got rolled around on the reef by some heavy surf and the light cut out. My spare light was in my bag in the truck.

I quickly swam over to my partner, and he guided me back in.

Probably one of the eeriest moments of my life.


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## bisar_x (Feb 22, 2008)

*ultrafire c3*

...


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## zipplet (Feb 22, 2008)

*Re: ultrafire c3*

Snap! Today a green fauxton of mine which is about 14 months old failed. The LED is dead (batteries are fine), and this is the first time I've had an LED completely fail like this!

I tried the LED on other power sources but no glimmer of light, not even 0.000001 lumens .... I'll just stuff another LED in there


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## kramer5150 (Feb 22, 2008)

*Re: ultrafire c3*



bisar_x said:


> Sorry if I am a little bit off topic, but my circuit board of my ultrafire C3 just died today (my fault). Does anyone know how to remove the circuit from the drop in module? Thanks.



can you please post this to a new thread? I would like this thread to be on topic... almost like a survey, simple and concise. The intent for this thread is to help those members like me who are having difficulty evaluating lights and picking the right one. Many members use their lights on the job. Reliability is just-as if not more more important than flood, Lux, lumens, run time or beam pattern.



I thought about creating a tally-chart, but that might be difficult if this thread continues to grow at this rapid of a pace. Also, I intentionally limited this to LED lights, knowing that there would be a TON of incan lamp failures polluting the "data", since it is unavoidable at some point... 

Some great feedback everyone!!! keep posting away whenever they crap out THANKS everyone for not making this into a fanboy brand-bashing session. Mods please feel free to delete those comments that derail this thread in such a way.


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## mcmc (Feb 22, 2008)

Lightraven said:


> My Surefire M6 was only a few months old and was still on the original batteries when I was attempting to use it for a takedown to the ground/arrest in the dark by my fellow. The MN20 250 lumen bulb exploded as I turned it on, contained by the reflector and window, of course. I switched to my M3.
> 
> After getting a new M6 from Surefire, the MN20 bulb started to go very dim on the original batteries, then die--after about 5-10 minutes of run time. I replaced the MN20 with the MN21 500 lumen lamp and wrote Surefire that their MN20 has problems. There was a recall of MN20's soon after. My MN21 continues to function fine with no problems 4-5 years later.




Wow, 4-5 years?? amazing. I guess those SF lamps (when good) are sturdy. No noticeable drop in output in that span of time? Do you use that 500L incan a lot in police action?


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## Lightraven (Feb 22, 2008)

To answer the last question, no, I rarely use the M6. Maybe a few minutes at a time, once a month. There are many reasons for this--ambient light, use of other flashlights or night vision goggle, boring assignment or lack of activity in my area, etc. Because of the extreme battery drain of an MN21 (500lumen), I try to only use the M6 for search and contact with people I intend to arrest where maximum light output is desirable.

Once I started using the MN21 exclusively, the M6 became reliable enough--even with some drops on rocks and a submerging in the ocean. I traded a prerecall MN20 (250 lumen) to a fellow CPFer (a flashlight designer/scientist) with the warning about possible explosion. He later reported on CPF an MN20 exploded in his M6--could've been mine.


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## Alero (Feb 22, 2008)

Inova X1 second generation failed after about 15 minutes. It's the only true failure I've ever had in any light except for a Brinkman LED that they haven't made in years.

Pal-Light shipped with bad circuit board which didn't allow strobing feature. I didn't care so I kept it a couple of years until they really updated the LED. Then I sent it in for replacement mainly to get a better LED. 

4 or 5 D-cell and AA maglites and a Tek-Tite Expedition 300 died due to leaking batteries, so not the fault of the light. Gotta change out the batteries every few years! All were cheerfully replaced under warranty!


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## Hypnosis4U2NV (Feb 22, 2008)

I dropped my UltraFire C3 P4 about 3ft to the floor  and  it doesnt want to take AA batteries anymore.. At 1xAA no output, at 2xAA it barely glows :candle: and a 14500 works just fine..

Dont drop this light!!


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## candlelight001 (Feb 23, 2008)

Wow, one interesting note is that it seems like there's alot of Arc AAA failures, interesting for a light that is supposed to be ultra tough... Do you think that this is a false positive because so many people have them, so they show up at a greater rate, or is it a noteworthy trend?


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## RedLED (Feb 23, 2008)

*MilkySpit Foodmaster*

Works sometimes, then does not.


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## TequilaMockingbird (Feb 23, 2008)

New Arc AAA: ran 5 seconds out of the package on the supplied Duracell battery, flickered once, then died.


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## Federal LG (Feb 23, 2008)

My post is a little difference from the others. Happily, all my lights have NEVER failed on me.

I have two Fenix P1, one Fenix L2D Cree, one Fenix L1T, one Surefire L1 Cree, two Maglites 2 D (incans), one Coleman 4 D, and all of them have never failed!



*Yet.*


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## mrmike (Feb 23, 2008)

JetBeam C-LE v.2 died the same day it came in the mail (I'm pretty sure it was the switch). BOG replaced it no questions asked.

Terralux TLF-30 LED Flare; dead from leaking alkaline batteries (it came in the package that way).


My Lumapower Avenger is failing (the light is starting to flicker erratically); I wonder if that has anything to do with the Rebel 100 issues?

I think my most abused/dependable light is an old 3D Eveready Industrial (yellow plastic) with an EverLED in it; it's fallen on the floor more times than I can count, and refuses to die. It's like a Timex; "takes a licking and keeps on ticking". The bulb is held by a spring instead of being mounted in the typical holder. I think the flexibility of the spring is a great idea for when the light falls, as it obviously reduces the shock to the bulb/emitter. Sometimes the simplest ideas work best.


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## heckboy (Feb 24, 2008)

2D Maglite has a flaky switch. Requires a rap on hard surface to wake up on occasion.

Surefire E2D had a DOA switch. Well it worked twice out of the package and stuck in the on position. Replaced by SF with no hassles.

Later,
HB


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## nitesky (Feb 25, 2008)

One Maglite and one Streamlight Task Light, both with switch problems.


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## turbodog (Feb 25, 2008)

Failed:

surefire e2e, clicky died after 2-3 presses
surefire a2, switch failure
surefire u2, switch failure
surefire a2, switch failure again
surefire u2, switch failure again
uk eled, clicky switch failure after 2 years

maglite, no problems, still have my original light from 1985


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## jasonp (Feb 25, 2008)

Most lights that have died on me have done so after a little abuse. The only ones that come to mind that have died for no reason where two that I just sold on here as fixers; a 2 c cell Husky LED light from Home Depot and an Electrolumens XM-3. I had high hopes for the XM-3 but it only lasted for about a month.


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## Burgess (Feb 25, 2008)

This post certainly should convince *everyone*

of the importance in carrying *multiple* EDC's.



Not like *that's* gonna' be a problem for most of us.



_


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## jnj1033 (Feb 26, 2008)

Tektite Solitaire drop-in:
The LED fell off the board on the first one I had. Tektite replaced it under warranty.
The second one worked fine for 5-6 months, then began flickering and squealing. By then it was out of warranty, and I had a Fenix E1, so I didn't bother doing anything about it.
Liteflux LF2
Developed flicker on the P2 position. LED Cool replaced it with no hassle, and the 2nd one works fine so far.
I had a minimag go intermittent on me a few years back. Also, my dad had a minimag fail with what looked like severe corrosion inside. I think either rain may have entered through the Nite-Ize tailcap switch he was using, or a battery leaked.


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## NutSAK (Feb 26, 2008)

Lumapower Lumahunter M1-T (Cree P4)

After a couple of hours use in candle mode during a power outage, I turned it off, and it wouldn't come back on. It only worked if I smacked it against my hand, and only intermittently. The problem is at the spring-loaded positive connection of the module. It's on its way to Hong Kong to be fixed right now.


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## FlashSpyJ (Feb 26, 2008)

Im trying not to take with me to many lights on my way out, but this thread really dosent help!

Even a couple of SureFires have failed people...I really hope mine wont, they havent so far, knock on wood!


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## Burgess (Feb 26, 2008)

There's no such thing as "too many lights" !


_


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Feb 26, 2008)

I go forth each day with at least two and usually three lights on my person.

Only had a Niteize single mode (actually three different ones) fail.

Had a Kroll go flaky but a cleaning fixed it.

Have gotten some dollar store stuff that failed, and some that work fine.


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## kramer5150 (Feb 26, 2008)

candlelight001 said:


> Wow, one interesting note is that it seems like there's alot of Arc AAA failures, interesting for a light that is supposed to be ultra tough... Do you think that this is a false positive because so many people have them, so they show up at a greater rate, or is it a noteworthy trend?



I noticed that too.... but hesitated to point it out.

Someone please double check me on this... Not ONE Lowes Task Force :huh::huh: (Cree or Luxeon) WOW... considering how poor the quality is and the number of units sold. The RC-G2 (another high volume budget-runner) has managed to escape this thread as well. thumbs up to both of those:thumbsup:, and the SF 6PL... another high volume seller.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Feb 26, 2008)

I don't love or almost like my Lowes Cree, but it does work well.

Likewise my RC-G2. I tried the reflector with a P4 from one of my SAIKs and am considering how to put the whole SAIK module into the G2....


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## tsask (Feb 26, 2008)

my Streamlight Microstream has a nasty habbit of not lighting up when I press the switch, then later working fine.


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## LED-holic (Apr 10, 2008)

No LEDs yet knock on wood.


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## yaesumofo (Apr 10, 2008)

My Surefire Titan crap out after falling to the hard ground. It was one week old. It did not work properly after the fall. I sent it to SF they fixed it and returned it to me a month or so later.
I had a tail switch fail on an HDS EDC. It was replaced by HDS.
I have had numerous photons and inova zipper pull lights fall apart on me (after rough use).
I am sure there have been others..
Oh ya I had a 6 d mag which is full of leaking batteries as we speak. Into the trash it went.
Yaesumofo


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## PAB (Apr 10, 2008)

Had 3 Inova second generation X1's fail on me. I had all 3 refunded by the merchant since they failed within the first month or so. 
One MagLED 2AA failed. Unfortunately it was too late to get a refund and I didn't want to bother with sending it to maglite.
NightIze 1 watt upgrade for maglite 2AA broke after a week of normal usage. One of the wires snapped. I wasn't aggressive in twisting the light on and off. Returned to merchant.


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## Lunal_Tic (Apr 10, 2008)

Maglites (various), almost always a switch or contact issue.
Brinkmann AA; switch
Fenix L1P switch
Petzl Zipka flickers and goes dim. If you fiddle with the batts it'll usually get better, just aren't held in well
Arc AAA, Old black bodied version; sometimes fails to light even with a new battery. Take the batt out and put it back in and it usually works again.
Surefire E series clickies 2-3; one wouldn't click the others were crazy hard to click
Lumaray First gen FL-12; one LED died, they replaced the head
Techno Light (the one that had H3 in the head); threads on the plastic body broke screwing the head off.
Gerber Hornet lantern
Gerber Mantis; hasn't broken but I retired it because the joints were weak from the getgo
Gerber Inferno; switch
PT Switchback headlamp; wonky switch
Pelican M8 LED; batter carrier split
Swiss Lights (version 1 or 2); would cease functioning if you ran the battery out.
Aunoc CR123 Rebel light; contact path is flaky, might turn on might not.
Aunoc original AAAA; + side contact spring didn't make good contact with the driver, blinked
Photon 3; one version would go dead just sitting in the drawer
Swiss Army Night Vision watch; LED module made by Emissive Energy never goes completely off, kills batteries too quick


Just because a light fails doesn't mean that I don't like it. I'm just listing failures. If I think of others I'll update this.
-LT


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## gary3911 (Apr 10, 2008)

Nitecore DI : switches off whenever knocked and switches on in strobe mode.

Fenix L2d : I think its the driver. Output stuck at middle setting.

Arc AAA-GS : Just doesn't work. It's an Arc - there's only one damn moving part.

ASP Triad : switch


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## kaichu dento (Apr 10, 2008)

tsask said:


> my Streamlight Microstream has a nasty habbit of not lighting up when I press the switch, then later working fine.


Mine did that when I first got it, then some fiddling around and it has never done it again.

I also have the same problem with my Browning Zero Gravity AA.


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## cy (Apr 10, 2008)

an important distinction needs to be made for battery failures polluting the data posted here. 

which of course ends up in light failure. battery leaks can cause all sorts of gremlins, even after bad cell is removed and light cleaned. 

ok... back on track. list doesn't include lights dying from battery leaks or incand bulbs poping or custom lights that needed a small tweak to make contact or killing light by using li-ion cells or other user induced failures. 

Fenix L1-P (3x)... bad tailcap switch
streamlight two AA led light.. board failure
gladius ... tailcap switch
U2 .. tailcap switch
streamlight headlamp... cracked plastic battery cap

there's got to be others that I'm forgetting... 

for the large number of lights I've used in the last few years. list is amazingly short, when failures for batteries and user induced issues are not included. 

seems tailcap switches (clickies) are responsible for a large % of failures. that's why I don't like clickies and have gotten rid of almost all my lights with clickies. 

that's why my preference is for lights has: 
1. twist activation for different levels, 
2. an independent/bombproof ground path for battery 
3. li-ion support. 

that's why my main EDC is a ti PD. Surefire Titan is still in trial status, recently taking over duties from Li14430. 



kramer5150 said:


> can you please post this to a new thread? I would like this thread to be on topic... almost like a survey, simple and concise. The intent for this thread is to help those members like me who are having difficulty evaluating lights and picking the right one. Many members use their lights on the job. Reliability is just-as if not more more important than flood, Lux, lumens, run time or beam pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





kramer5150 said:


> Curious...
> 
> What lights have you owned that have failed on you?... I am not talking about O-rings that wear out, lenses that scratch or rubber switch cap boots that wear out. I mean flat-out DIE and fail to illuminate as they once did when brand new. Feel free to comment further too. If the failure is the result of user error or excessive abuse feel free to state so.
> 
> ...


----------



## Hooked on Fenix (Apr 10, 2008)

1.Streamlight 4AA Polypro 7 l.e.d.- l.e.d.s all burned out within 10 or 20 hours.
2. CC Expedition- solder that is + battery contact wore out
3. CC Trek light- same problem as CC Expedition.
4. PT Matrix headlight- battery endcap broke, "approved" lithium batteries permanently dimmed l.e.d.s so I returned it.
5. Brookstone 7 l.e.d/xenon/cold cathode fluorescent light- cheap plastic columns holding cheap thin springs in place got cut through by springs leaving springs angled making poor contact, battery end cap broke too.
6. Inova X5(If I can call this failing)- used Ultralast "3.0 volt" RCR123A batteries which fried the l.e.d.s. I tried freeze pop method to change l.e.d.s unsuccessfully. I let the light dry and turned it on to see if it would work. The l.e.d.s all worked, although at less than half the original brightness. I threw it out (123A batteries are expensive). I was impressed that it survived with the l.e.d.s being fried, being filled with water, and frozen with water inside. Of course I bought a new one when they updated to CS l.e.d.s.


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## geek4christ (Apr 11, 2008)

Gerber Sonic - my buddy carried it on his keychain for about a month and then two days ago pulled it out and it wouldn't light.

I cleaned the contacts, tried known good batteries, etc, but it's just dead.


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## Frank423 (Apr 11, 2008)

Lumapower MRV SE - always problems with that light, sometimes it works but most of the time not, guess it's because the switch


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## Wyeast (Apr 11, 2008)

Of all the lights I have, only three come to mind as having failed.

Pelican Stealthlite 4AA - switch _finally_ wore out after like 10 years of hard service - light replaced by Pelican :thumbsup:

Gerber (formerly CMG) Sonic - light developed a low-level flicker, refused to hit full brightness with new batts - replaced by Gerber :thumbsup:

MagLED 3AA - Dud switch - often flickers or goes out when bumped. You can read about my attempted warranty repair in the Jeers section. Light is still broken - on permanent loan to someone who doesn't care if it needs to get thwacked against the sink every now and then.


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## bspofford (Apr 11, 2008)

This collection of anecdotes over five pages seems to include every major brand EXCEPT DereeLight. Did I miss a report? Obviously, we should consider the fact that there are perhaps a hundred times as many MAG lights out there, but I would assume that there are quite a few Dereelights at this point in time. It seems that Nitecore DI lights are listed fairly often, and they probably don't have as many units in the field as Dereelight CL1H lights. Wouldn't it be nice to have some data on the failure *rate* and *types of failures* per 100 lights? Consumer Reports compiles this kind of data for cars, but I doubt that there are enough of us flashaholics to justify their interest.


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## Black Rose (Apr 11, 2008)

I haven't had any fail yet, but my 2AA Mag LED has issues.

Sometimes when I turn it on it flickers a bit before going gull strength, even with fresh batteries. 

The head rotation on it feels very clunky. In comparison, the head rotation on my non-LED 2AA Mags are extremely smooth.


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## AlexGT (Apr 11, 2008)

The ARC AAA!!!, An irrespectful little brat of a light that never turns on when you need it and lights up whenever it wants to, it never was reliable!, I sentenced it to life without parole on a drawer in the kitchen.

:thumbsdow :hairpull: 

Dang! After all these years thinking about it still makes me mad! 

AlexGT


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## chaosmagnet (Apr 11, 2008)

My first 2-AA Mini Maglite would eat bulbs like nobody's business, and after several night-time fumblings to get the spare installed I started to replace them preemptively as they aged. Later generations of Mag's bulbs seem to last a lot longer. My 2-D Maglite had the same issues with the same resolution. These now are second-line lights stashed for emergencies, and they're kept with spare batteries and additional spare bulbs.

That same 2-AA developed a dead switch, which Mag replaced under warranty. 

I have a 2-AA Mini MagLED that developed a flakey switch. A few minutes of twisting it back and forth seems to have degunked it, and it works a treat now.

My only Solitaire died for reasons unknown and wouldn't live again.

I'd have more money if I still thought that Mag made the best flashlights .

I've had several fauxtons and a couple of Photons die on me. I don't carry them any more.

No problems with my (still new) P2D, Streamlight Scorpion, or Rayovac Sportsman Extreme (got two of 'em).


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## GarageBoy (Apr 14, 2008)

My Elektrolumens XM3
I damaged the reflector cleaning it, got it replaced
I went to short through the LED to observe the current the LED was getting. That somehow broke the tail switch (wouldnt shut off)


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## blinder switch (Apr 15, 2008)

I had one of two BOG cree Q4 drop ins for a SF 9P which at that time it was mounted to one of my Bushmaster M4 type carbines (5.56x45mm/.223 Rem). I did not even get 15 minutes total time on it (safe queen) and it just flat out quit working when I was checking it out after I had purchased it several weeks before. BOG (Bugoutgearusa) took about 3 weeks to send me another. I will never trust that company again.

*The other was my fault.* I was organizing my SF collection, messing with my SF E1e/bulbs and one of my SF E2D's/bulbs which can use the MN02 (extended run time) and the MN03 for the E2D. *I accidentially* put a high output MN03 incan bulb into my miniture E1e and *it melted the bulb area of the E1e in less than a second with a flash spark to go along also.*

No big deal to SureFire, as I had all replacement parts mailed to me in just a few days. On the packages the incan Executive Elite MN01, MN02 and MN03 are clearly marked, I kind of wish they could stamp the bulb code *onto *these bulbs, but I learned my lesson....the Executive Elite E1e only uses the MN01, and the E2D can use the MN02 or what I use, the MN03, or 65 lumen incan bulb.

No problems with my other 10 SureFire lights.


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## kramer5150 (May 23, 2008)

bump!!


----------



## sORe-EyEz (May 23, 2008)

Inova T1 (Tiros optics), fail to light up when clicked (occasionally), other times annoying intermitant light output. :shakehead


----------



## MikeSalt (May 23, 2008)

Surefire E1e. I dropped it once, and the Pyrex window shattered, and the plastic internals of the clicky tailswitch just fell to pieces. Really very disappointed.

I have been waiting 4 weeks now since it was rendered useless, and still no package from Surefire. Utterly disgusted. I have written a physical letter of complaint, with a recommendation to return the Z52 tailswitch back into service.


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## jabe1 (May 23, 2008)

Solarforce l2 r2 5mode.
niteize IQ switch


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## sORe-EyEz (May 23, 2008)

hi MikeSalt,

sorry to hear that happen. if there's a possiblility of the pyrex shattering i think i'll have to add rubber armour. sounds a little dumb though. 

HA III is a coating to protect the light now i'm adding rubber to protect the pyrex...


----------



## sirahren (May 23, 2008)

My 2007 Jet beam AA. 

It doesnt turn on sometimes, it doesnt turn off others... it really turned me off from multi mode flashlights...


----------



## PlayboyJoeShmoe (May 23, 2008)

Innova X1 (old moonbeam model) wouldn't push on very well. Had to twist to get light. NEVER took to it.

Innova Bolt 2AAA similar issue with switch. Bolt beam better but nothing to write home about!


----------



## LightScene (May 23, 2008)

My Hyperion Ce-R recently quit working, and cleaning it didn't solve the problem. It's not dead, but it just goes into beacon mode at a very dim level.


----------



## V8TOYTRUCK (May 24, 2008)

Nitecore Nitecore Nitecore Infinity. I need to send it in to get the new version but I bought mine second on the marketplace. Is that still good for warranty?


----------



## Aluminous (May 24, 2008)

V8TOYTRUCK said:


> Nitecore Nitecore Nitecore Infinity. I need to send it in to get the new version but I bought mine second on the marketplace. Is that still good for warranty?


Edgetac's warranty says nothing about restricting service to original owners; as long as you go directly to Edgetac for service, they say they would only deny warranty for "misuse" or battery problems. (TADGear's policy says "Warranty services ONLY apply to original purchaser", but they only service people who bought from TADGear or direct from Edgetac anyway.)

What went wrong with your NDI?


----------



## Brigadier (May 24, 2008)

LED Lenser
Rayovac Extreme 2XAA


----------



## Yoda4561 (May 24, 2008)

Minimag 2AA. First light I ever bought with my own money back before I realized water resistant and dive rated were not the same thing :thinking:. A fair bit of pool water got into it and did a number on the switch mechanism. About 5 years ago I found it in a box and dissasembled and cleaned everything, works fine now . 

Energizer Double Barrel AA. Not sure what happened, just flat stopped working one day and wouldn't come back on. Bulb was fine, batteries were fine, I can only assume a broken/corroded switch. Tried dissasembling it to see if it could be fixed, managed to mangle it in the process.

Surefire L4. The now infamous stuck clicky failure. Happened at work last year and got stuck in the on-position. Fixed with a bit of FP-10 I had in the toolbox and later used deoxit gold which seemed to work just as well. Then I lost it a few months later:mecry:

Photon II. After about 7 years of faithful service my white photon II's switch (the clear plastic thingy) managed to break inside and the light wouldn't turn on, I blame this on militec as I put some in there to prevent water from getting to the contact bits :shakehead(long before I discovered de-oxit and other products). When I first heard of militec and started using it I put it on almost everything just to see how it would work, and alot of stuff that had plastic parts that I got it on have since broken:sigh:. Dissasembly and removal of the small broken off switch piece got it working again, but the switch doesn't click on positively like it used to.

4xAA Dorcy Spot/flood utility light with a foldout stand. This one dimmed out and died and wouldn't come back to life. Cleaned, polished, sanded battery contacts and got nothing. Sprayed contact cleaner on the slide switch and didn't get anything. Gave up on it till I tried deoxit for the first time. Sprayed it on all the contacts and slide switch and gave it a shot. Got intermittent light and thought "this is an improvement" :candle:. Cycled the switch a few dozen times and now it's better than new:twothumbs. I'm thinking of adding an LED PR bulb to this and putting it to good use, the folding stand is really handy.


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## Chrontius (May 24, 2008)

Surefire E2 roundbody - failure state was draining batteries while off. May be the lamp, may be something else. Tailcap replaced under warranty (convenient; while bought new without packaging the rubber boot had cracked rather badly) but it's still not fixed.


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## gadgetnerd (May 24, 2008)

Jet-1 MK IBS. The soft press to change modes stopped working after a few days (ie I neeeded to soft press 20+ times to change modes). Dodgy electronics. This is the 1st light I've had which actually has actually played up to the point of unusability.


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## Burgess (May 24, 2008)

to Yoda4561 --


Can you tell us approx. how DEEP you took your Mini-Maglite ?


Was it just a "swimming" incident,
or were you actually scuba-diving with it ?


Reason i ask, is 'cuz i once read where a scuba-diver
took his Mini-Maglite to a depth of 200 feet,
and it suffered no water entry.

However, *it must be noted*, he did NOT twist the switch while underwater.


Thank you for your input.

_


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## R-R (May 24, 2008)

gary3911 said:


> Fenix L2d : I think its the driver. Output stuck at middle setting.




Damn, first mention of L*D, i was hoping that my light would be bulletproof!
(At least i now know it does scratch tungsten haha ;-)


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## Yoda4561 (May 24, 2008)

Burgess said:


> to Yoda4561 --
> 
> 
> Can you tell us approx. how DEEP you took your Mini-Maglite ?
> ...




It was a swimming pool, maybe 8 feet max. Light was unlubricated and ungreased and for kicks I did in fact turn it on underwater  I recall being fascinated with the idea of a "waterproof light", so I'd test out the minimag every chance I got to see if it really was, and now I know


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## Patriot (May 24, 2008)

SF L4 LED failures x 2 (run only on primaries)
SF L2 LED (turned to a sickly green tint)
SF E2E switch
SF U2 switch
SF M3 MN11 bulb failure X 2 (one turned orange, the other turned white)
SF 6P P61 bulb failure (didn't work from new package)
SF A2 droped from 34" from my pocket, onto tile and cracked the Pyrex glass. (just happened yesterday)


Princeton Tech 4XAA incan, (forgot the name) wouldn't light.
Inova X3, tail switch contact issue. 
maglite bulbs.....maybe a dozen over the years.


I'm forgetting one or two of the Surefire failures but considering all the lights, I've had very good flashlight reliability.


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## Rocketman (May 24, 2008)

Inova T3 MP failed on first light up. So disappointing.

A Streamlight Propolymer 4aa Led reflector melted down, the reflective coating melted off but I think that was because I had it set up against my watch and it overheated. A fantastic light, bizzare failure. Leave that to me. I already have another one, in a holster this time.

I have discarded a few lights after ruining their reflectors attempting to clean them but I blame that on myself. Surefire and Maglite lights have reflectors available, a very nice thing for me.

I don't have a lot of failures, not with my flashlights, not with other things. You might think that is just luck, but luck is not so random.

Inova, I'm angry with you.


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## LEDninja (May 25, 2008)

HF-1 Compact Cree Flashlight
It was one of the 1st AAA Cree lights out. Mine was intermittent and died within a week.

I learned not to clean reflectors after the shiny coating came off when I tried to clean a cheap Dorcy 2AA. The light has been in my office drawer for a large number of years and I was quite fond of it.


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## NightFlyer (May 25, 2008)

Aside from countless cheap $5 plastic lights due to switches/falling apart, etc..

I've gone through a couple of AA Maglites - these ate bulbs like candy so I gave them away.

1.5 "Performance Tools" 9x LED flashlights. These things are pretty cheap. They have an AAA battery holder, one has had the holder fall apart, the other had a switch failure, so I took the good holder and used it in the other one with the good switch. The LEDs are dimming and turning more blue as time goes on. Will probably move the holder and good switch to the other when the LEDs start failing. Looks like they might be overdriven.

Mag LED 3xAA. LED failure. Glows *very* dim now.

Maglite 2D switch failure after dropping it out of a ceiling onto concrete while installing network cabling. Used my Inova Microlight from my laptop bag for the rest of the project.

Lightwave 4000. (10 LED flashlight) Dropped while working behind a rack. Bounced off the corner of a rackmount UPS and the casing broke in two at the threads leaving them stuck in the head.

My survivors: Invoa X5. Has suvived a couple of major falls. Still on its inital set of batteries. This is my primary light for working in the field or things like camping trips and around the house use. A great all-around light. Inova x0. (newer, has the flared head) I don't use this light much as it gets hot and eats batteries like candy. It's a good standby at home for power outages.


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## BayMoe (May 26, 2008)

Surefire U2, emitter crapped out, had a very generous member here replace it with another lux5, crapped out again within 24hour upon receiving it at the post office. Have since switched to a Seoul P4 with only 5 working modes, but still loving it.


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## Gladius01 (May 26, 2008)

Bought MTE SCC P7 2 mode flashlight, it tooks almost a month to reach me. The flashlight is only a couple of days old and the back cap switch stop working and the flashlight stop functioning. No light what so ever. :shakehead

I'm currently waiting to the feedback from DX after filling in the *Customer Service Express: Replacement for Defective Items. *

I hope DX get back to me very soon.


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## paulr (May 26, 2008)

Yesterday I tried using my Aleph Mule McClicky and it was totally dead. It only needed a new battery and I had another light to switch to, but I hate it when that happens. I like the style of circuit that gets dimmer and dimmer as the battery decays instead of conking out instanteously, so I have some warning to swap the cell.

My Spy 005 (2nd gen) also has dead batteries because of a firmware bug that causes the light to consume nontrivial battery power when the light is switched off, so a couple months on a shelf drained it. I have to send it to Dave (Data) for a firmware upgrade. It's understandable and forgiveable in a low-quantity light that bugs like this got into the field, but it's a failure mode that most of us aren't used to anticipating.

Plus the usual switch and bulb failures and occasional fried LED in other lights...


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## chmsam (May 26, 2008)

I think I hurt myself trying to remember light failures in the past 25 years or so. Very few unless I count dead batteries (and I won't).

Well, I once tried to run a minimag on rechargeable AA's many years ago and kept blowing bulbs. Probably the lower voltage and different current were too much for the bulbs. I don't count that as a failure of the light, just of my feeble brain. Primaries cured the trouble and have only blown a few bulbs before their time in any light unless it was dropped or abused.

Had a couple of SF G2 old style tail caps fall apart but that wasn't unheard of by a long shot and RTV is truly a beautiful thing. That stuff is almost as sexy to women as duct tape, especially if they can get over the smell before it is cured. I didn't even bother to send them back to SF (the tail caps, that is).

I don't even have too many stories about leaky batteries.

All I do is use the appropriate lubes, hit the contacts with DeOxit Gold, and try not to let batteries sit in the lights if they are not going to be used (and I'm not too strict about even that). I do go so far as to use friction tape or bicycle handlebar grips on some lights to avoid testing out the force of gravity, but that also makes the lights look funky and people leave them alone. Maybe there's another secret. I take care of the lights and also do not lend them out to people who cannot certify (with two or more witnesses) that they can both walk and chew gum at the same time without falling down and maybe that's why they just don't seem to get loaned out too often.


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## BruiseLee (May 26, 2008)

cv3po said:


> Gerber Reactor was my first..............first Luxeon (holy green [email protected]) and first complete failure. Just didn't turn on one day and never again.


Same thing happened to me. Gerber Reactor was my first Luxeon. I turned it on for the first time, got an awful green light, not even as bright as a regular Nichia. Turned it off, and it never turned on again! Died after putting out about 3 seconds worth of pee green light!

Was replaced by seller, replacement still works. But, it's still an awful light. Runs like crap on rechargables, terrible on off switch, did I mention it's green?


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## NightFlyer (May 26, 2008)

Heh, remember those "Performance Tools" lights I mentioned? The other one failed in an interesting way. The plastic lens and LED module popped out of the light this morning. Figures, since I was using it while holding a pinball playfield up with one hand. This light was in my toolbox, so I grabbed it. Turned it on and *pop*.. LED module, plastic lens and battery holder all end up on the floor of the game. Prop the playfield up, collect pieces of dead light and go get my X5 to finish finding the problem and fix it.

For those wondering, the job at hand was a sticky slingshot. The screws holding the solenoid bracket to the bottom of the playfield had loosened causing the whole thing to bind up. Took me longer to go get my X5 out of my laptop bag than it did to fix the thing when I found the problem. 

A perfect case in why you should always use a good quality light whether you're out in the woods or your head is underneath a bunch of mechanics and wiring. :twothumbs


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## iapyx (May 26, 2008)

Surefire U2 - tailcap switch 

In addition to the never ending pro/contra discussion: imho a flashlight this expensive should not fail anytime, especially the tailcap.


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## bullterrier (May 26, 2008)

Surefire E1L Outdoorsman [FONT=arial, helvetica]dual output version[/FONT] switch. 
the switch just fell apart:sigh:


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## geepondy (May 26, 2008)

Quite a few Surefires, quite a few Arcs, I see. I had two Arc AAA's go bad, one croaked all together and the other developed a flickering problem. Also my Huntlight AA light did not survive a drop to the floor.

Is their truly a light that never fails or has an extremely, minute failure rate?


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## kramer5150 (May 26, 2008)

geepondy said:


> Quite a few Surefires, quite a few Arcs, I see. I had two Arc AAA's go bad, one croaked all together and the other developed a flickering problem. Also my Huntlight AA light did not survive a drop to the floor.
> 
> Is their truly a light that never fails or has an extremely, minute failure rate?



No one has mentioned the Lowes TF. Which is surprising considering its poor machining quality and Chinese origin. The wal-mart ray-o-vac sportsman 2AA lights have also managed to fall under radar. No reported malkoff M60 failures too.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: to all-3

Relatively few menions of the following:
Fenix T1
6PL with twist/momentary cap


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## FsTop (May 26, 2008)

MJP Extreme III.

Overheated and died due to use of Li battery.


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## Patriot (May 26, 2008)

paulr said:


> My Spy 005 (2nd gen) also has dead batteries because of a firmware bug that causes the light to consume nontrivial battery power when the light is switched off, so a couple months on a shelf drained it. I have to send it to Dave (Data) for a firmware upgrade. It's understandable and forgiveable in a low-quantity light that bugs like this got into the field, but it's a failure mode that most of us aren't used to anticipating.




Self draining lights are especially annoying to me. Luckily I only one one now which is the WiseLED 1500. If it sits in the safe for 8-10 weeks the li-ion battery is depleted. At this time there is no fix for the issue. It's amazing to me that this is an acceptable form of circuitry by any manufacturer.


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## Enzo Morocioli (May 26, 2008)

Fenix L2D-CE Not Q5 version: Tailcap switch became intermittent. Often times the retaining ring would loosen and cause the light not to activate. A relatively easy fix, but if in a crucial situation with no time to fiddle, this would be detrimental. Easy fix though; Install batteries by unscrewing the head, not the tail. 

Inova X5: Picked this one up off Ebay (bad move, probably got a bad one) and it had an intermittent flicker. It was really annoying... I hardly ever use that one, and actually bought another one off a user on CPFM. That one works great!

Can't think of any more right now...


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## geepondy (May 27, 2008)

I forgot about my Inova X5's, I had TWO of them develop a flicker problem, one of them being a first generation.


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## DoctaDink (May 27, 2008)

Had a Rexlight 2.0 suddenly quit working this week. Was working fine, then all of a sudden wouldn't turn on... and, no, the battery is not dead


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## Monocrom (May 28, 2008)

kramer5150 said:


> Relatively few menions of the following:
> Fenix T1
> 6PL with twist/momentary cap


 
Not just the 6PL. Surefire's momentary tailcaps are bulletproof. I've heard of numerous SF clickie failures. Not so with their momentary tailcaps.


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## iapyx (May 28, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Not just the 6PL. Surefire's momentary tailcaps are bulletproof. I've heard of numerous SF clickie failures. Not so with their momentary tailcaps.


 
That's good to hear.
Although SF sent me a tailcap switch quite quickly (took a month to arrive) I couldn't use my favorite light for that time. What if you are in the army and you drop your expensive light. Oops, the LED did survive the drop, but the tailcap didn't.... 

I have faith in SF: can't wait to receive my pre-ordered UA2


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## kramer5150 (Oct 7, 2008)

A little BUMP-age for this one, and I want to add my Inova X1-V2 to the list. Considering its heft, build quality and USA manufacturing origins I would not expect a waist high drop to kill it. But thats what happened... plop and ...:candle:

It has a serious mechanical design flaw internally. Where the compressive force of the spring is not sufficient enough to securely press the electrical parts together. All it took was one drop to dislodge the internal contacts and that was it.

Please feel free to add your recent failures to the list.


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## radu1976 (Oct 8, 2008)

BUSHNELL 1 WATT LED flashlight.
Only a few days after I got it it stopped working - a matter of contact maybe - I was lucky to get a free replacement from the seller from e-bay , really lucky. 
The 2-nd light has been working OK from more than 1/2 year.


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## evilr00t (Oct 8, 2008)

gary3911 said:


> Fenix L2d : I think its the driver. Output stuck at middle setting.



Same failure mode!
Ancient Fenix L2D-CE without any markings on light engine. Failed by losing modes.

Medium*-Medium-Medium*-Strobe medium*
Turbo-Strobe turbo
* = incorrect


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## Monocrom (Oct 8, 2008)

kramer5150 said:


> Please feel free to add your recent failures to the list.


 
Okay! ..... Princeton Tec Pulsar II. 

I bought it for 3 reasons. One, my Photon II got a bit wet and the light came on at less than half intensity; and wouldn't shut off. Two, heard the Pulsar II can (for lack of a better word) "tailstand." And finally, it comes with a much bigger constant-on switch than a Photon II.

#3 is spot-on.
#2 is not.
#1 is what happened to my Pulsar II just yesterday!

All it takes is a tiny bit of water in the right spot. The Pulsar II is currently in my pants-pocket.... It's been on for nearly 11 hours. Can't get it to shut off. Perhaps when the battery dies, I might be able to salvage it, but I doubt it.

Nearly every coin-cell light I have ever had has had the same issue. The Photon II model is a bit more water-resistant. But that's not saying much. I've lost some pretty pricey coin-cell lights over the same issue. 

I have a handful of .99 cent coin-cell lights from Lighthound. I think I'll use those, instead. Let's see, $12 = 1 Pulsar II, or 12 Lighthound coin-cell models. :ironic:


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## superflytnt (Oct 8, 2008)

Monocrom said:


> Okay! ..... Princeton Tec Pulsar II.
> 
> I bought it for 3 reasons. One, my Photon II got a bit wet and the light came on at less than half intensity; and wouldn't shut off. Two, heard the Pulsar II can (for lack of a better word) "tailstand." And finally, it comes with a much bigger constant-on switch than a Photon II.
> 
> ...


 




This is because water is slightly conductive and is completing the circuit. Just open the light up and dry it out and you won't waste any more good lights. I've actually used my Photon II underwater and it works fine. I usually just shake the water out until I can open it up and properly dry it and it always works just fine........................


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## nerdgineer (Oct 8, 2008)

Had another failure since last posting: Inova X1-V3. 

I thought it should be reliable since it is a spring loaded type twisty but my nearly new V3 got intermittent and wouldn't turn on (by twist) without several repeat tries. I think Inova's addition of a button in the tail has introduced a failure mode where the now moveable tail contact plate can back up enough so that the body doesn't make reliable contact even when twisted to the bottom. I've found that pushing the button in while twisting the switch (until you can feel the grind of the plate into the button) will reliably turn it on, but it's a pain. Not good...


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## PhillyRube (Oct 8, 2008)

Wolfeyes Thunder AX...brand new, first the switch crapped out, then I had to get advice on an internal tightening, and I just had to send it back since one of the LED modules crapped out. Big waste of $200


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## Gatsby (Oct 8, 2008)

Not that many actually.

Arc AAA. Original black model with red led. Would not light. Fixed by Arc.

Arc LSHP. Stopped working, admittedly after my son dropped it. Arc repaired it however.

Arc 4+. Switch went haywire like so many others... never fixed and I sold it for parts during the period when Arc was out of business.

HDS B42 XRGT. Failed to light - emailed them and it turned out a small adjustment to the spring fixed it.

Other than that I believe that is it. Not too bad really.


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## sORe-EyEz (Oct 8, 2008)

Inova T1 (TIROS) - faulty switch, intermitant light output 

Surefire E2L (genII) - faulty switch (again:green, now strobe only


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## FsTop (Oct 8, 2008)

MJP Extreme III. 

Fried electronics due to overheating when used with 10440. 

Twice...


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## drmaxx (Oct 8, 2008)

Fenix P1: Light turned on erratically due to a problem with the switch (= empty battery when you actually need the light).


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Oct 9, 2008)

I don't remember what I posted to be in this thread, but have this to add...

A DX 1447 3W Cree failed while using two 3.0V RCR. The LED MAY still be good but the driver is toast.

Not at all sure how it happened.

Other 1447 and 4068 are still going strong.


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## BlueBeam22 (Oct 9, 2008)

My Dorcy 5 million candlepower spotlight just failed on me. I bought it about a year ago and have always kept it fully charged and taken good care of it. However, just last night after a full charge cycle I turned it on and the beam was sickly yellow and then died 100%. It wouldn't take a charge or show any life after that. I knew it was a battery problem, so I took its dead battery out and will now be ordering another 6V SLA for it.


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## Light-Eater (Oct 9, 2008)

Unfortunately, a SF E2l, b/c of the switch :candle:


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## Art Vandelay (Oct 9, 2008)

I got some non-Surefire replacement lamps for some Surefires. They were lame. I forgot the brand name. They did not fit very well and the light kept going out.


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## Mostly (Oct 9, 2008)

Interesting thread. Thanks to OP and all the other posters. 

Only LED failure I've had was a department store Brinkman 3AAA headlamp. This was a few years ago when LEDs were still fairly rare in the dept. stores. Bought it a few weeks before a long camping trip, tried it once by running quickly through the various switch settings--it worked fine. Packed it away and didn't touch it again until camping trip. Put batteries back in it, turned it on, and slowly, painfully, the dual white LEDs got dimmer and dimmer in a matter of seconds. The red LED in the middle kept working and still works. By the time we got back from vacation, the department store return period was over, and it didn't occur to me to mail it in to Brinkman for replacement. (I think I'd tossed the original packaging by then too.) 

Was very disappointed because my first LED ever was the fat little dept. store Brinkman 2AA where the AAs are side by side. I still have that light and like it for an emergency light, despite the blue tint, dim spill, and ringiness, because it has a very long runtime and a not-too-bad (lens-focused) spot. I gave out 11 of those suckers for groomsman gifts at my wedding rehearsal nearly five years ago, and my dad still uses his nearly every day (even after I gave him an RC-G2). 

This thread makes me feel better about that failed Brinkman though, oddly enough, when I hear about much more expensive brands having their LED failures too. 

Other failures that come to mind were usually leaky alkalines, especially AAA alkies. Recently burned a spot in the aluminum inside my EO1 with a bad alky (brand new cheap rayovac AAA), but fortunately the small spot of damage was nowhere near anything critical. (This in a light I use often, but had not used for a couple of days). Dorcy AAA LED generation 2 was almost ruined by an alky left in unused light for several weeks. Was able to dissassemble and get it working, but it still needs some smoothing with a dremel--batteries don't slide back out past the roughness very easily. My wife's Solitaire was also completely ruined by an alky--melted shut. Couldn't get it open again, even with vice grips. Conclusion--(as CPFers already know) alkies are treacherous, especially AAA. Use as last resort, only, and remove them when not in use. (As I type this, I am worried there might be an alky eating my wife's purple EO1, which has been misplaced for weeks.  )


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## hyperloop (Oct 9, 2008)

My Jetbeam Jet I Mk II R failed on monday night, went out to the neighbourhood convenience store to get the usual bread, milk and eggs and was flashing around, switching modes, looking between cars, in the trees etc.

Turned it off and put it back in my pocket when i got to the store and when walking back, pulled it out and it just simply stopped working on me. No idea why at all, couldnt be the battery (freshly charged AA Eneloop) as that worked fine in my other AA (Ultrafire C3)

So i have sent it back to my supplier for him to take a look and tell me what's wrong with it.

OT: Strangely enough, my single mode Ultrafire C3 is goin incredibly well, makes me wonder if i need all those modes and doohickeys. Get one really bright one, and get one really dim AAA one for when u dont need that much light


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## lukevsdarth (Oct 9, 2008)

I've bought quite a few Romisen G2 on a couple the light flickers and one the dome led lens poped out. No others I can remember.


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## Mike 208 (Oct 9, 2008)

I had a light fail on me recently - a Streamlight Stinger LED DS. I had the light less than 2 weeks, and the barrel switch would not click on, or if I managed to get the light to stay on it would not turn off or would go to strobe mode. Needless to say, I'm not very happy with it and it definately will not replace my Pelican 7060.


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## marksun (Apr 16, 2009)

Before I saw the light, virtually every flashlight I ever owned or found around the house failed eventually (if it didn't get lost or outright destroyed first). 2d, 3d, 2AA, 1AA, 2AAA,3AAA, 2c, 6v square with screw terminal and spring terminals lights by duracell, rayovac, maglight, countless nonames - all fail despite or due to being rewired, oiled, greased, blasted with compressed air, drenched in wd40, sanded, drilled out, reamed, glued, caulked, electrical taped, soldered. RFO: burned out bulbs, switch failure (some of which seem unexplainable for something so simple), copper leaf contacts rust out, drowning (fall in the water, carried into the water, hosed down by breaking waves or spray, rain), resultant dimming, lens fog, misc death by water; battery terminal connectors sever, lead wire fray then separate; and the number one cause of light failure, dead batteries.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Apr 16, 2009)

Dead batteries will do it every time!

I saw in the Zebralight thread and here that some of you people are TOUGH on stuff!

I don't swim, rarely get nearer to water than look at the river or lake (Trinity/Lake Livingston) from my truck.

I'll likely NEVER find out if the majority of my lights are water resistant or will live after a bad fall.

But battery trouble is well known to me.


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## Zatoichi (Apr 16, 2009)

The only one that's failed on me so far is a Mini Mag, but it was over 10 years old. I put that down to use and abuse.


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## CARNAL1 (Apr 23, 2009)

Maglite 4C switch failed. No big deal, I ordered a replacement switch and changed it out myself.

Pelican M6 Lithium switch failed. Dropped on a blacktop driveway while walking the dog. Called Pelican Customer Service and they sent me a replacement switch no questions asked. Great Customer Service from Pelican. (A+)

Brinkmann Maxfire LX (2) tailcap switches failed on 2 different lights. I love this light but I'm losing faith in this great little beater light. Trying to get a resolution from Brinkmann Customer Service. I have two calls in to them and can't get anyone to call me back. Sorry Brinkmann your CS so far rates a (D). Hopefully they will step up and make things right.

Happy Dark Trails (hope you have your back-ups ready)


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## mmajunkie (Apr 23, 2009)

So far 2 Surefires and most recently Lumapower.


Both brands will never be purchased again.


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## f22shift (Apr 24, 2009)

an ld10 before with a faulty tailcap.


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## CARNAL1 (Apr 24, 2009)

MMAJUNKIE:

Can you give details on what the failures were on the Surefire lights that you had?

Thanks


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## linterno (Apr 24, 2009)

Fenix L2D switch.


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## lrp (Apr 24, 2009)

Jetbeam!


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## kramer5150 (Apr 24, 2009)

Wow... I forgot about this thread.... BUMP, keep em' coming folks.

Just to note... Not one single mention of a Malkoff or Lowes Task Force failure.:twothumbs


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## imagex01 (Apr 24, 2009)

LRP, could you please add some details on how your jetbeam failed?

I'm considering a JB for my first light, the more I know, the better educated I'll be to make a decision.

Thanks.


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## 4D223 (Apr 24, 2009)

Romisen RC-T5, Gel dome came off one of the LED's and then 3 out of the 4 LED'S went  I know you get what you pay for but damn it was a bright light while it was working.


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## James Hamon (Apr 24, 2009)

Solitaire,fenix eo1 or so i thought fixed it later battery issue that caused flickering,to many cheap incan to mention.


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## Flying Turtle (Apr 24, 2009)

Only failure I can recall was a Dorcy 3LED, 1AA that I used as a battery drainer. One too many leakages occurred. I think a real serious cleaning effort might bring it back again, but I've been too lazy.

Geoff


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## Oddjob (Apr 24, 2009)

Mag Solitaire drop in - just stopped working one day.
Nitecore EX10 - Would not turn on and off reliably after I dropped it once (fixed by 4Sevens' staff)


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## Monocrom (Apr 25, 2009)

Oddjob said:


> Mag Solitaire drop in - just stopped working one day.


 
Which drop-in was it? 

I have an ArcMania LED drop-in in my Solitaire that has worked well so far.


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## mmajunkie (Apr 25, 2009)

CARNAL1 said:


> MMAJUNKIE:
> 
> Can you give details on what the failures were on the Surefire lights that you had?
> 
> Thanks




Several Bulbs on the SF's, one switch, and for the Bulbs the light died all together, no idea what is wrong.

The Lumapower fails to turn on no matter what I tried.

When I spend descent money on a " flashlight " I expect them to last quite a while problem free, of course a hiccup hear and there is to be expected, but complete failure has no excuses.


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## ANDREAS FERRARI (Apr 25, 2009)

Only light that has failed is a Spiderfire P7.Ran for only a few minutes(very brightly) and that was it.Interestedly enough-a 3xQ5 that I bought from DX last year (and we all know their history when it comes to quality) has been through flashlight hell and back and is still running.


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## [email protected] (Apr 25, 2009)

I'm very hard on my lights. Only my e01 is not completely broken/lost it still flickers though. Getting a surefire in the mail. Wonder how that holds up.


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## Unclemonkey (Apr 25, 2009)

My lumapower incendio went to the spirit in the sky. I had it for a year now. A few months ago I went to turn it on and got nothing. I sent it in for warranty and got it back a couple of weeks ago. I was fine for a week and did the same thing. It seems to be a weird contact issue that's been reported with some other luma lights. It will go on as I screw on the head about 3/4, but will shut off as I fully tighten the head. I don't feel sending it back for repair will do, as I feel the problem would have been diagnosed by now. I've been trying everything like cleaning, applying lube, etc. Nothing seems to work. Earlier this afternoon I went to fidle with it and it would not turn on at ALL!. I'm throwing in the towel on this one. Unless I get some help. 

(FAILED)


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