# Need mild thread locker



## kosPap (Mar 21, 2008)

well i have 2 flashlight parts that need to be threadlocked but still removable with little force. one is a Ultrafire AAA flashlight head, the other is a lens retaining ring that upon module tightening it threads more, pushes on the glass which in turn pushes the o-ring out!

So I need to thread lock them just enough to be able to remove with mild pressure. (the lens retaining ring has pliers sockets)

So far I have found the Loctite 220 & 222. What are your experiences / suggestions on these?

Also I am open to DIY materials like cyanoacrylate, etc.
Regarding name brands they have to be available here in Greece so we are talking widely available like Loctite, which does


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## Nitroz (Mar 21, 2008)

You will want to use the threadlocker 242 blue. Do not use the red threadlocker!


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## Oddjob (Mar 21, 2008)

Nitroz said:


> You will want to use the threadlocker 242 blue. Do not use the red threadlocker!



+1. Absolutely no red if you ever want to loosen it again. The bezel on my Novatac was secured with red loctite and I had to ruin the bezel to get it off (which is fine because I wanted to change it anyway)


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## Mark620 (Mar 21, 2008)

Nitroz said:


> You will want to use the threadlocker 242 blue. Do not use the red threadlocker!



Thats the one...


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## pezdragon (Mar 21, 2008)

I have had good results with 222, It's purple.


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## LukeA (Mar 21, 2008)

kosPap said:


> well i have 2 flashlight parts that need to be threadlocked but still removable with little force. one is a Ultrafire AAA flashlight head, the other is a lens retaining ring that upon module tightening it threads more, pushes on the glass which in turn pushes the o-ring out!
> 
> So I need to thread lock them just enough to be able to remove with mild pressure. (the lens retaining ring has pliers sockets)
> 
> ...



If you use the blue loctite, don't cover all the threads with it. The AAA body isn't particularly strong and you may damage it by clamping it to temove the loctite, even the removeable blue.


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## modamag (Mar 21, 2008)

Have you considered just using teflon plumbing tape?
They basically change your thread class from 2 to 3,4,5 or what ever you need.


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## greenlight (Mar 21, 2008)

I thought you were looking for an easy-going moderator to close this thread!


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## modamag (Mar 21, 2008)

LOL


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## cave dave (Mar 21, 2008)

The less you use the easier it will be to remove.

The Purple is the weakest purpose built threadlocker. Biketoolsetc used to carry it. Impossible to find it in stores.


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## Torque1st (Mar 21, 2008)

Before you ruin parts secured with threadlocker by using brute force you can apply a little heat to soften the threadlocker. Even the red stuff comes loose then.

Check the Loctite website:
http://www.henkel.com


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## precisionworks (Mar 22, 2008)

The green wicking 290 is also handy, about the same strength as blue 242. For tiny threads, like those in lights, use the tip of a toothpick to apply a microdrop to the threads. As long as both male & female threads are clean, it takes very little to do the job.


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## kosPap (Mar 22, 2008)

well I have checked with Loctite site before posting and I got totally confused.

For guns forums I knew that red is too strong and needs heat, blue is force breakable. When I found numbers I got mixed up.

So it is blue 242 and purple 222 probably. Thanks for the application tips too.
All the best, Kostas


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## VanIsleDSM (Mar 22, 2008)

Blue thread lock is still fairly strong.

It may sound silly, but honestly, hair spray is a great low strength thread locker... I also use it to help hold couplers on pressurized intake piping on my car.


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## kosPap (Mar 22, 2008)

VanIsleDSM said:


> Blue thread lock is still fairly strong.
> 
> It may sound silly, but honestly, hair spray is a great low strength thread locker... I also use it to help hold couplers on pressurized intake piping on my car.


 
hey THAT'S the spirit! will try it on the WF-501 Head!


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## KC2IXE (Mar 22, 2008)

I was going to say - get the purple one. It's original use was for making variable resistors (actually multiturn pots) a bit harder to turn in electronics


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## FlashKat (Mar 22, 2008)

Do not use cyanoacrylate (Super Glue). It does not come loose.
I would suggest silicone sealer, or the blue threadlocker.


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## LukeA (Mar 22, 2008)

FlashKat said:


> Do not use cyanoacrylate (Super Glue). It does not come loose.
> I would suggest silicone sealer, or the blue threadlocker.



Then there's CA debonder, which is CA solvent. A few drops of that in the joint and it will come free.


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## chalo (Mar 22, 2008)

Blue Loctite is medium strength; it's still problematic to break the bond when you're talking about flashlight parts rather than nuts and bolts. Purple is low strength, which is a much better idea. 

Boiled linseed oil is a mild threadlocker that is easy to find and non-toxic. It takes a couple of days to set up, though.


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## shinbone (Mar 22, 2008)

Blue Loc-Tite should be easy to find at a hardware or automotive store. If those fail it is also packaged as Gun-Tite (Uncle-Mike's) if a sporting goods place is available.


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## kosPap (Mar 23, 2008)

chalo said:


> Boiled linseed oil is a mild threadlocker that is easy to find and non-toxic. It takes a couple of days to set up, though.


 
Well under this thinking could I use wood varnish?


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