# Build Log: Double Triple XP-G R5



## sosemot728 (Jan 19, 2010)

Ive been working on this design for a while, its a double, triple XP-G R5 Bicycle light which hopefully should also double as a dive light. I am aiming for 2200 lumen's. I have taken design inspiration from the "K-Light" posted earlier on these forums and made something that suits more to my purpose.

I would like as much input as possible regarding the design of this light.

It will consist of two cutter boards run in series, and linked in series

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut939






Powered by a single Bflex running with an input voltage of approx 21v Either 6*18650 3.7v batteries or 7 * RCR123A 3.0v in a custom housing I am also developing.

http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut750


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## sosemot728 (Jan 19, 2010)

reserved for CFD


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## Hill (Jan 19, 2010)

Matt,

Good luck on that build. I was thinking of doing a "triple triple" in a mag (C or D) host. I am interested in how much throw/flood you will be getting (are you using optics?) Those triple boards are pretty expensive, but I really like the compact form. And the output of >1000 lm each is impressive.

As for drivers, I have used taskled drivers and they are very good, as is the technical support from George. You may want to email him directly to check if the setup is the best. He has several boards available now, and there may be one that is better, although the setup you have looks good.

You may also consider a 1A shark buck from the Sandwhich shoppe, but I don't know the max input V at the moment.

I'm sure others will chime in as well...

Post more pics of your progress!!!


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## sosemot728 (Jan 20, 2010)

Update: Reduced overall size to 58mmx68mmx40mm

Sent to get a rapid prototype in plastic created today.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 21, 2010)

Has anyone had some experience building a mount for bike lights? (cnc design or otherwise) I am also looking for the possibility of using a pre-made mount from another company

Something similar to this
http://www.shop.cygolite.com/product.sc?productId=68&categoryId=31


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## sosemot728 (Jan 21, 2010)

Just got a quote from the machinist. It will be about $100 per complete unit (anodized in any color, although im leaning towards grey or black)

Is anyone interested in getting a few units? (I can offer just the shell or a full kit form if a deposit is paid)


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## Linger (Jan 21, 2010)

$100 for casing including lens and o-rings, switch, glands, tested to 100m. No electronics or internals included? Seems like external battery pack?
Is it set up for the triple 20mm lenses? (same as 'Moddoo Triple' in my sig. I just built one up using 3P Rebel 100's. Running 3P was a treat for wiring, but now it makes a great 18650 drop-in (or will when the board is installed) The triple lens is great, but is there any feedback on someone diving with it? Usual reflectors used but I can really see the strength in an optic)
I'm not sure exactly what you're offering.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 21, 2010)

$100 is really just the machining including

Aluminium case (3 piece)
Appropriate M2-0.4 screws pre-tapped
Silicone O-rings x3

Glass not included - Needs 2x UCL 24.7x1.85mm http://www.flashlightlens.com/str/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=ucl_lens

No optics, electronics, mount. I have left the mounting option open. as well as the wire exit point (any suggestions?)

I cant pressure test it to 100m as I don't have equipment, nor a prototype unit. All I can guarantee at this stage is "Water-resistance" i.e. splash-proof. Testing will come later.

External battery pack and switch yes. It needs 20~22v (so a 22.2v lipo or 7x3.0v lion cells)

Yes 20mm carlco optics

Wide 
Narrow
Medium


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## sosemot728 (Jan 21, 2010)

Can anyone fault these two o-ring orientations, I have calculated the correct channel size based on standard practice. Does anyone have any experience?

1/16" O-ring CS (approx actual size ~1.78mm)
0.09" ~2.3mm Channel Width 
0.05" ~1.3mm Channel Depth
0.01" ~0.25mm Channel Rounding


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## Linger (Jan 21, 2010)

beyond me, sorry.
Two are usually a great idea, but I understand you're approaching this from another direction entirely.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 21, 2010)

Linger said:


> beyond me, sorry.
> Two are usually a great idea, but I understand you're approaching this from another direction entirely.



I tried to make two fit. but because of the size restrictions I placed on myself. I cant make them fit...

I am hoping the front section will compress enough over the edge of the glass to seal

What did you do in your Light in you sig? (is there no o-rings?)


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## Packhorse (Jan 22, 2010)

From a sealing point of view the O ring should be beind the lens instead of in front of it.

As it is the single O ring is sealing against 3 parts Body, lens and bezel. And sealing 2 potential sources of leaks. 
If its behind the lens it is only sealing on 2 surfaces and 1 direction of leak.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 22, 2010)

Packhorse said:


> From a sealing point of view the O ring should be beind the lens instead of in front of it.
> 
> As it is the single O ring is sealing against 3 parts Body, lens and bezel. And sealing 2 potential sources of leaks.
> If its behind the lens it is only sealing on 2 surfaces and 1 direction of leak.



Could you explain via a diagram, I am confused what you mean


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## sosemot728 (Jan 22, 2010)

I could do something like this, but I have to change the diameter of the glass holder, which I don't like to do. I have no experience in designing a flat o-ring support.





As opposed the original design


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## Geir68 (Jan 22, 2010)

Packhorse said:


> From a sealing point of view the O ring should be behind the lens instead of in front of it.



If you by lens mean behind the UCL glass, then I agree with you.

The way I understand the drawing, the tripple lens and light engine is in the deep circular cavity behind the UCL glass. There is no reason to seal between the bezel and housing.


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## TorchBoy (Jan 22, 2010)

matthewm said:


> I would like to know if there are any other options available in terms of a driver board,


You don't quite get around to explaining what you actually want the driver to do. If I assume multiple modes... http://www.videofoundry.co.nz/ianma...erlist.php?v_in_min=21&leds=6&modes=multimode then yes, there is another option that might just scrape in with your maximum (fully charged) battery voltage (you might need to drop it a bit), but it only has three modes.



matthewm said:


> reserved for CFD


:shrug:


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## Linger (Jan 22, 2010)

I think the idea is that the compression will be against the flat of the lens, o-ring pressed between lens and body should stop ingress of water.
VS an o-ring between lens and outer bezel, no contact with body, o-ring outside of compression.
Want to make the forces at play work for you, such as increasing the seal as pressure builds (and 'vacum*' inside 'pulls*' oring to seal even better)

*illustration only, there's no physics vector for 'pull' but it helps conceptualize / visualize the challenge.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 22, 2010)

Linger said:


> VS an o-ring between lens and outer bezel, no contact with body, o-ring outside of compression



If you mean the picture with only one o-ring. The purpose of the wide channel is to allow the silicone o-ring to stretch radially (i.e. flatten in the channel) and cover both the body, bezel and glass (including the gap between the glass and body)

This is what I am trying to achieve by using only one o-ring.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 23, 2010)

Update: 

Added more screws to front and rear faces, I am trying to ensure even distribution of force to seal, the M2-0.4 Stainless steel screws are very cheap....

Added optic cad model

Added reference cable gland, Should this stay on the rear plate? Or should it be on the underside of the main body?

Switch will be externally mounted. The cable gland will have a 5 core cable enough for power, switch and indicator.

Does anyone want to recommend any design changes?


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## sosemot728 (Jan 24, 2010)

Got bored playing with solidworks, so created some renderings.


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## HarryN (Jan 26, 2010)

Interesting project - I like (and have built) some side x sides. They are much more challenging, aren;t they.

My suggestion is to skip O rings and seal things up with silicone. Its not like you are going to change LEDs every month, and when you do want an upgrade, it isn't that hard to dig out silicone based semi-permanent seals.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 26, 2010)

HarryN said:


> Interesting project - I like (and have built) some side x sides. They are much more challenging, aren;t they.
> 
> My suggestion is to skip O rings and seal things up with silicone. Its not like you are going to change LEDs every month, and when you do want an upgrade, it isn't that hard to dig out silicone based semi-permanent seals.



I wanted to try the o-ting route this time around. if it doesn't pan out, I will pursue something else.


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## Linger (Jan 27, 2010)

O-rings - I like the image in post #14 better. You wouldn't even need the added metal lip containing the o-ring in a separate cavity, though you could include the slightest lip for peace of mind. If you can find ring of correct size a simple inner ledge will allow the ring to rest on it, downward pressure from the bezel will secure the o-ring between body and lens. Its nice a simple, two pieces squeezed together by water with o-ring in between.

Ideally for impact resistance your lens isn't compressed with anything metal at all, so double o-rings nice and tight will ensure nothing shatters if its dropped. Then you could ease off a bit on the lip on the bezel, no need to press it down with the bezel as the o-ring will hold it firm and water pressure make sure its sealed up tight.
That's really why I like the ring underneath - as pressure increases it closes more on the oring, instead of original proposal where pressure pushes lens away from o-ring


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## paulr (Jan 27, 2010)

I mentioned on the other thread, it would be nice to be able to adjust the aim directions of the two clusters separately, so you could have a high and low beam like a car. But that only makes sense if there's a way to switch on just one cluster. At first I thought that would take two bflexes, but maybe it could be done with one bflex and some wiring to just switch one of the clusters out of the circuit.


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## Geir68 (Jan 27, 2010)

Linger said:


> O-rings - I like the image in post #14 better.


I agree with Linger on the above. I would use O-rings between the body and lens like that first picture in post #14 illustrate.
In order to make the water pressure work against the O-rings, make a little gap between the bezel and body. The pressure at 30 meter depth will cause aprox. 40 kg additional force onto the O-rings. The deeper you go, the more force is applied to the sealing O-rings. I made a housing for a SLR camera once, and used this principle successfully. 

Geir


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## sosemot728 (Jan 29, 2010)

Geir68 said:


> I agree with Linger on the above. I would use O-rings between the body and lens like that first picture in post #14 illustrate.
> In order to make the water pressure work against the O-rings, make a little gap between the bezel and body. The pressure at 30 meter depth will cause aprox. 40 kg additional force onto the O-rings. The deeper you go, the more force is applied to the sealing O-rings. I made a housing for a SLR camera once, and used this principle successfully.
> 
> Geir



This lights focus has changed from a dive light to a bike light, in order to keep it's small size. While I am waiting on this prototype run to be machined. I am working a a dive light version, that will be an all in one contained unit. It will only be a single triple tho. Pics soon.


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## sosemot728 (Jan 30, 2010)

Have updated some of the design for the production model.

Added double o-rings to front glass

Increased size of glass from 24.7mm to 26.8mm to suit.

Added rear wing reduction section.

Added smooth curve heat sinks

What does everyone thing of this new design changes? I think it is more 'organic' and less rough on the eyes.


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## Geir68 (Feb 1, 2010)

I really like it. Bike lights is what got me started in this hobby.

This is a bit massive for a bike light imo. I'm a weight weenie when it comes to things that bolt onto my bike. There is a lot of aluminum around the driver that could be removed. Can you calculate the weight(or volume) in Solidworks of your design?

Geir


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## sosemot728 (Feb 2, 2010)

The prototype is about 290g the new version above is about 20-30g less. There is not much room to move in terms of size. Because of the style of assembly... Screws


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## sosemot728 (Feb 3, 2010)

I have moved some stuff around. shortened it abit (at the expense of wiring room, it will be tight, but manageable)

Changed screw configuration of face

Changed size of rear heat sink wing (Increased... I was concerned about durability) 

New version weighs in at 270g (which is now on the utmost limit) Including all electronics (except battery), Glass etc...

Pics below..... Comments?????? 

I want this light to be designed by this community, so any input would be much appreciated!


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## John_Galt (Feb 3, 2010)

Geir68 said:


> I really like it. Bike lights is what got me started in this hobby.
> 
> This is a bit massive for a bike light imo. I'm a weight weenie when it comes to things that bolt onto my bike. There is a lot of aluminum around the driver that could be removed. Can you calculate the weight(or volume) in Solidworks of your design?
> 
> Geir




Well, this has a lot of heat to disperse. Running 6 XP-G's at full tilt will produce some serious heat, so the more mass, the better, I say... Granted, he's not going to run it at full power continuously, but even still...


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## sosemot728 (Feb 5, 2010)

Decided on a switch type

http://au.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/508907.xml

All I need to decide is on what colour!? (I'm thinking red)

Here is the datasheet http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/35187.pdf

Any preferences?

Also here is the cable that will be included with the light.
http://au.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1204333

Or this in electric blue....

http://www.newark.com/lapp-kabel/0012422/cable-ctrl-in-sf-5core-0-75mm-50m/dp/15P6036

and the cable gland
http://au.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1204192


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## Geir68 (Feb 5, 2010)

John_Galt said:


> Running 6 XP-G's at full tilt will produce some serious heat, so the more mass, the better, I say...


You need mass to transport heat from LEDs to the housing surface, but you need surface area to get rid of the heat. 

matthewm!
I wouldn't change the astetics of the light. Its very clean looking.
You need to add a tapped hole for the mount.

I'm confused by your choice of switch. You are linking to a switch for mounting onto a printboard and its only dustproof. You need a watertight (IP67) momentary switch to control the bflex. Switches from APEM and ITW are often used by bike light builders. Example link
You probably need to move the beflex closer to the LEDs to make room for the switch and cabeling -> less mass ;-)

Geir


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## sosemot728 (Feb 5, 2010)

> I wouldn't change the astetics of the light. Its very clean looking.
> You need to add a tapped hole for the mount.
> 
> I'm confused by your choice of switch. You are linking to a switch for mounting onto a printboard and its only dustproof. You need a watertight (IP67) momentary switch to control the bflex.



Yes I specifically am looking for a PCB mount, it is more compact than having a separate LED indicator with tabs and just as nice to solder, the one you linked to is too large.



> You need to add a tapped hole for the mount.



This is specifically not included in the machining to allow changes


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## HarryN (Feb 5, 2010)

Hi, very approximately, it takes 1 sq in of surface area per watt to dissipate the heat if the air movement is static (no wind). 6 x LEDs = something close to 20 watts, so in theory, it will need 20 sq inches of surface when you are at a stop.

If the light is bike mounted and you are riding, then the optimal finning is front to back, not side to side. Obviously what you are have there is more aesthetic and is probably ok in a breeze in any event.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 5, 2010)

HarryN said:


> Hi, very approximately, it takes 1 sq in of surface area per watt to dissipate the heat if the air movement is static (no wind). 6 x LEDs = something close to 20 watts, so in theory, it will need 20 sq inches of surface when you are at a stop.
> 
> If the light is bike mounted and you are riding, then the optimal finning is front to back, not side to side. Obviously what you are have there is more aesthetic and is probably ok in a breeze in any event.



That is a VERY approximate guess... it also depends on many other factors. At the moment, excluding front and rear faces there is 13,500mm^2 of convective surface area (~20 inch^2)

for this case, the direction of the fins has a very small effect on the heat sinking capacity. You are right, I am relying on forced convection to remove heat from the device, but in terms of fin direction. The orientation used now would be slightly better (Relying on the structure orientation to create turbulence within the flow field as opposed to laminar plate flow over "aerodynamic" fins (front to back finning). This is what some of my original CFD analysis has pointed too. But as mentioned previously, the difference is minor. Greater benefit is achieved through a small surface area increase.

The sinking surface area on this design is already quite large... I do not doubt the adequacy of heat sinking.


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## HarryN (Feb 5, 2010)

LOL - I guess it is not so terribly far off if you came to the same number using a computer model as my back of the envelope paper analysis. Yes, there are a lot of assumptions in the model, but as you note, it is a good starting point approximation.

I have done a fair amount of thermal analysis, but that was in the day that we did it by hand and a calculator, not these slick modern software simulations.

You might be interested that the 1 watt / in2 number matches a quite detailed thermal model that Lumileds has in one of their older data sheets.

If you don't mind my asking:
- What reynolds numbers are you coming up with for the two situations for the fin orientation?
- Was there much difference in temperature profiles for the two situations? 

Interesting project - similar to my project "Tornado" concept in some ways.

Good luck with it.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 6, 2010)

HarryN said:


> If you don't mind my asking:
> - What reynolds numbers are you coming up with for the two situations for the fin orientation?
> - Was there much difference in temperature profiles for the two situations?



I did both some quick hand calc's for convective heat conduction (ignoring radiation to external surfaces and conduction to the front and rear faces) and an ANSYS CFX analysis. The hand calcs were done using an annular fin approximation assuming turbulent flow (Re~10^5). The CFX analysis confirmed heat transfer coefficients in a similar range. I did not find much difference in the temperature profiles (except the obvious change in streamline orientation/direction) and average temperature difference between the two was only 2~3 Degrees C


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## sosemot728 (Feb 8, 2010)

I have had a few concerns in my head over the current design that I am not sure about. Specifically how the glass lens is held in place. I am concerned that it will be cracked by the inside o-ring holders, if too much screw force is applied. I could reduce their height, but this would change how it is supported.

Here are some photo's













Also does anyone have some cad models of the Bflex and Maxflex? I am trying to position a header section mount for the Maxflex, I do not have the latest version here yet.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 9, 2010)

Update: Added mounting and cooling plate for Taskled's Maxflex driver. Now light has the provision to be run on either driver, Thru the use of double sided thermal tape

Update: Increased side thickness for mounting of mount hole. Changed rear plate to suit. (No net weight Loss/Gain)


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## sosemot728 (Feb 9, 2010)

Update: reduced dimensions again after further CFD modelling. (Length)

Update: Changed rear two fin sizes to accommodate. Also significantly increased surface area of fins

Update: Changed Maxflex mount point to a circle for easier machining.

Size is now. 70x40x44mm Weight is now reduced to 200 grams (huge reduction!)


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## sosemot728 (Feb 9, 2010)

For those that are interested. Quick Ansys results for worst case scenario. Natural Convection (i.e. no movement) no front and rear plates and Maxflex at worst efficiency. Temperature after one hour. Approx max temperature achieved at 30 minutes


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## sosemot728 (Feb 9, 2010)

Dual 18650. 50 minutes runtime on 2200 lumen high setting. Any interest?
A bike light that turns into a flashlight, with an adapter


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## John_Galt (Feb 9, 2010)

Dependent upon cost, among other things, I could tentatively be interested... Could the 2x18650 body use a 2s2p battery arrangement and run CR123's? I realize that running cr123's under high drain wouldn't be safe for long runtimes, but the ability to light up a field for a few minutes would be huge in the "wow-factor" department.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 9, 2010)

John_Galt said:


> Dependent upon cost, among other things, I could tentatively be interested... Could the 2x18650 body use a 2s2p battery arrangement and run CR123's? I realize that running cr123's under high drain wouldn't be safe for long runtimes, but the ability to light up a field for a few minutes would be huge in the "wow-factor" department.



I've never used cr123's before... I am not sure if they can take that kind of amp draw...

The adapter wont be cheap, it is a huge chunk of aluminium to machine down.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 11, 2010)

Got word from the machinist that the prototypes are in the mail. As soon as these have been checked. An order for this version will be created.


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## pee10755 (Feb 12, 2010)

I would be interested in purchasing this light if the price is within my range. Can't wait the learn more about it.


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## John_Galt (Feb 12, 2010)

matthewm said:


> I've never used cr123's before... I am not sure if they can take that kind of amp draw...
> 
> The adapter wont be cheap, it is a huge chunk of aluminum to machine down.



I think a high quality CR123 (ie: Surefire, Duracell cells) would be able to handle 2-2.5 C current draw, at least for short durations. Using Cr123's in such an arrangement would also possibly expand the customer base for this, to those who don't have, and don't yet wish to purchase 18650's and chargers.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 12, 2010)

CR123's would have a very short runtime.... (about half of 2x18650)

I thought most people were very comfortable with 18650 batteries?


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## tino_ale (Feb 13, 2010)

Hi matthewm,
I could be wrong but here are a couple ideas :
- There seem to be a mechanical interference between in the area of the glass OD and the aluminum casing, why keep this kind of groove where the glass seem to fit?
- I don't think the o-ring holder is necessary for the exterior o-ring. I see no reason why it would want to come out since there won't be any difference of pressure on both it's sides. On the other hand, the inner o-ring that makes waterproofness will get pushed towards the inside so I would think the retaining ring is necessary here. If I were you I would increase the thickness of this ring to provide a bigger contact surface if the glass ever makes contact with it.



matthewm said:


> I have had a few concerns in my head over the current design that I am not sure about. Specifically how the glass lens is held in place. I am concerned that it will be cracked by the inside o-ring holders, if too much screw force is applied. I could reduce their height, but this would change how it is supported.
> 
> Here are some photo's


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## sosemot728 (Feb 13, 2010)

Working on the mount 















Cant decide how to mount it to the unit (either by hotshoe or single bolt and a bulge thing)


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## sosemot728 (Feb 13, 2010)

tino_ale said:


> Hi matthewm,
> I could be wrong but here are a couple ideas :
> - There seem to be a mechanical interference between in the area of the glass OD and the aluminum casing, why keep this kind of groove where the glass seem to fit?
> - I don't think the o-ring holder is necessary for the exterior o-ring. I see no reason why it would want to come out since there won't be any difference of pressure on both it's sides. On the other hand, the inner o-ring that makes waterproofness will get pushed towards the inside so I would think the retaining ring is necessary here. If I were you I would increase the thickness of this ring to provide a bigger contact surface if the glass ever makes contact with it.



It is not an o-ring holder, it is a static mechanical face seal. The o-rings are shown in their undeformed state (and are shown to be interfering with the glass) after pressure is applied they will occupy the remaining area in the groove.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 13, 2010)

After looking everywhere for a suitable mount, I've decided to go custom built. Taking inspiration from both a "Trout" and "K-light" mount. Not shown is the screw that runs between the base widgets.

Update: M3 mounting screw added with bumps to secure mounting.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 17, 2010)

First batch of prototypes are done!















I have 9 units available for sale https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/258699


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## John_Galt (Feb 23, 2010)

Do you have this completed yet? Beamshots, and other (of your complete unit, please) pictures would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.


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## Mettee (Feb 23, 2010)

I have to say great job on this production :twothumbs That housing turned out great.


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## sosemot728 (Feb 23, 2010)

Mettee said:


> I have to say great job on this production :twothumbs That housing turned out great.



Thanks 

There is one prototype unit left for sale!


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## billz19834 (Feb 24, 2010)

Dear Matthew,
Most excellent design work! I would like to buy the last prototype if it is still available.

-Bill


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## sosemot728 (Mar 20, 2010)

I am happy to release pics of the near final shape for GenII, This version includes a omron IP67 sealed switch integrated in the housing and a sleeved grommet as the cable power exit (which will be glued in place as a seal). Finish will be electro polished then bright dip natural anodized.

Also I have changed from M2 Screws to M2.5 socket heads. The bottom mounting screw is M4 in size.

Weight is 168Grams

Production units will be ready in about 3~4 weeks.


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## ejot (Mar 22, 2010)

I would add two more front plate mounting screws, center top and bottom. Like the models you posted on 02-03, except space all 10 equally along the periphery. That would make us OCD folks happier. :wave:

Otherwise, a very nice aesthetic and functional evolution. I will certainly be tempted.


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## sosemot728 (Mar 22, 2010)

ejot said:


> I would add two more front plate mounting screws, center top and bottom. Like the models you posted on 02-03, except space all 10 equally along the periphery. That would make us OCD folks happier. :wave:
> 
> Otherwise, a very nice aesthetic and functional evolution. I will certainly be tempted.




Trust me, it took a lot of effort for me to make it have 8 screws... (I'm CDO, its like OCD but all the letters are in order) But If I wanted to fit the switch in, it had to be 8 screws


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## ejot (Mar 22, 2010)

Understood. :thumbsup:

I can cut off two hex cap heads and glue them on.


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## sosemot728 (Mar 22, 2010)

Another day, another revision. There was a slight manufacturing problem with screw clearances so hopefully this will fix it up! I like it this way better, curvy and retro on top and space age on both ends.

Screws are now recessed 2mm, but they still protrude a little (so they will still protect face and glass etc)


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## paulr (Mar 23, 2010)

Lookin' good!


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## TorchBoy (Mar 23, 2010)

Did you consider putting a second switch in, on the bottom?


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## sosemot728 (Mar 23, 2010)

TorchBoy said:


> Did you consider putting a second switch in, on the bottom?



What on earth for? :thinking: How would it then be mounted?


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## TorchBoy (Mar 23, 2010)

For _switching_!  Especially if different optics were on the two sides.


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## sosemot728 (Mar 23, 2010)

TorchBoy said:


> For _switching_!  Especially if different optics were on the two sides.



Because of the small size, I really don't think its possible to put another switch in it. I have been working with clearances of a few mm for most of the design of this light. Hopefully this will all pay off.

To give you an idea of scale, i'll lend you a hand.


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## sosemot728 (Mar 24, 2010)

Hope this doesn't ruin anyones plans, but i'm leaning towards an olive drab anodized color, This way I can stick to tighter tolerances and cover up some of the machine marks.

Examples of some colours...






http://anodizingspecialties.com/color%20pile.jpg


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## ejot (Mar 24, 2010)

What about natural hard anodize? I think that would have much more appeal, even if it raised the price a bit.


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## sosemot728 (Mar 24, 2010)

ejot said:


> What about natural hard anodize? I think that would have much more appeal, even if it raised the price a bit.



That is harder to control the tolerances.


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## sosemot728 (Mar 25, 2010)

I have opened the prepay list. Shell has been ordered and paid for

Full details in post #1 https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3251130&postcount=1


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## sosemot728 (May 7, 2010)




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## TorchBoy (May 9, 2010)

Wow! That's just lovely.


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## sosemot728 (May 13, 2010)

First Build complete! 

This unit is going to oldausdigger!


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## Mick (May 13, 2010)

Beautiful job Matthew. Must be tricky to wire? Did you test the thermal cut-back? How long does it take on high to cut-back?


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## sosemot728 (May 13, 2010)

Mick said:


> Beautiful job Matthew. Must be tricky to wire? Did you test the thermal cut-back? How long does it take on high to cut-back?



Thanks!. It is tricky to wire, but only if you don't plan on how you will do it.

...
...
...

I will add photo's to instructions soon!


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## coldass (May 13, 2010)

matthewm said:


> Thanks!. It is tricky to wire, but only if you don't plan on how you will do it.
> 
> ...
> ...
> ...



Matt, in particular I'd like to see in your instructions:

Recommended ways to mount PCB's
Installation of the switch - where to solder wires, glue or no/glue

Look forward to your guide.

CA.


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## sosemot728 (May 14, 2010)

As promised.

I've uploaded it to a couple of places just in-case the links die...


http://www.filedropper.com/guide

http://www.filefactory.com/file/b1a9f58/n/guide.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?zztdiojjman


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## HarryN (May 14, 2010)

Very nice design and workmanship. I am very impressed.

Could you remind me which driver board you designed this for?

Thanks

Harry


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## sosemot728 (May 14, 2010)

HarryN said:


> Very nice design and workmanship. I am very impressed.
> 
> Could you remind me which driver board you designed this for?
> 
> ...



Taskled Maxflex http://www.taskled.com/maxflex.html


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## coldass (May 15, 2010)

matthewm said:


> As promised.
> 
> I've uploaded it to a couple of places just in-case the links die...
> 
> ...




Matt I got my Maxflex pre-wired so my build is a bit different. But gland is in untrimmed (warmed it to help flex). Thanks for the guide.

T.


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## sosemot728 (May 15, 2010)

coldass said:


> Matt I got my Maxflex pre-wired so my build is a bit different. But glad is in untrimmed (warmed it to help flex). Thanks for the guide.
> 
> T.



I would remove the existing wires and start from scratch. There is very little room in the case.


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## Mettee (May 17, 2010)

Matt,

I have been following the thread a bit, one question. Do the MCPCBs with the XPGs on them screw or glue down? I saw in one photo that it looked like they screwed down but I was not sure.

drew


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## sosemot728 (May 17, 2010)

Mettee said:


> Matt,
> 
> I have been following the thread a bit, one question. Do the MCPCBs with the XPGs on them screw or glue down? I saw in one photo that it looked like they screwed down but I was not sure.
> 
> drew



Neither! They are held secure by the glass lens (which is pressing down on the optic).


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## Mettee (May 17, 2010)

very good so you just use some thermal compound on them I would bet.


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## coldass (May 18, 2010)

matthewm said:


> I would remove the existing wires and start from scratch. There is very little room in the case.



I am going to try with the Maxflex wired. I am pretty sure it can work. I did a test 'dry' run and worked out if I solder the bridge to one led PCB, then position the led PCB's, run the switch wires through, then solder all in place, then pull back the switch (after sealing) all that's left is to solder the power wires. 

Hey if I fail I can always start again and remove the wires.

Was it tricky to solder the wires to the led PCB? The last time I did a build I had holes. Did you have to flux first?


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## sosemot728 (May 18, 2010)

coldass said:


> Hey if I fail I can always start again and remove the wires.
> 
> Was it tricky to solder the wires to the led PCB? The last time I did a build I had holes. Did you have to flux first?



I did not use flux, I think it is fairly straight forward to solder.

The problem is, that once the delrin cap is pressed in place with the switch, it is practically impossible to remove!


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## coldass (May 20, 2010)

IT LIVES!

My GILI-6 is 95% done - just now.

All complete bar the 2xlens.

Wow what a tricky build for me. I managed to get the build done with the MaxFles pre-wired. I installed the switch first. Then power, then fixed the MaxFlex, then leds.

Only issues I created for myself were:

Too much thermal paste behind one of the led PCB's. Six cotton buds to clean up....

Soldering the leds in place was easier than I expected. And the switch was simple. I even managed two bits of heat sync to shield (with silicone).

My wiring around the MaxFlex looked tidy before I tightened the back cover.

Power up is fine - MaxFlex is in duo-mode. On dusk it is bright on high. The switch is not as tactile as I'd like - I might have got a bit of silicone in there somehow? That said it works perfectly and I am confident is sealed!!!

It is a small button but easy to locate and function.

I can't wait for my lens to arrive so I can fully seal.

I'll post photo's later.

CA.


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## coldass (May 20, 2010)

Just did a back-2-back with my Exposure MaxxD (960 lumens). The GILI-6 blows it away. On 1000mA so another level to go! I won't go higher until I set the thermal cut.

I just changed to bike mode on the MaxFlex - but are still in duo-mode. (a sticking switch made this a pain).

The switch is better now. A bit of lube did the trick.

I took a photo of the 'guts' before I sealed the back. The front is still loose (no lens). I'll post pics soon.

CA.:thumbsup:


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## coldass (May 20, 2010)

Ok, now I am getting excited. I just spent some time lighting the backyard alongside my Exposure MaxxD at 960 lumens and another light I have at just under 1000 lumens (but more spot than the MaxxD). Wow is all I can say. Wow. The GILI-6 is impressive. 

I have the two 'spot' optics (10507) - glad I didn't go any broader. They are perfect.

The MaxxD just got shunted to backup bar light. The 1000 Lumen (RadXL) will stay on my helmet - but I think the GILI on my bars is going to overpower it.

Anyway - there comments for the bicycle forum.

As for the build. I'll post a more detailed run-down now I am back in from the cold (about 5deg c outside now).


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## coldass (May 20, 2010)

*Coldass GILI-6 build notes:*

1: fitted gland and power cable (I didn't need to trim to get in, I just heated the gland in some boiling water to soften). I epoxied the gland and cable per Matt's instructions.

2. positioned MaxFlex (pre-wired) and ran wires to led and switch. Ran two small lengths of heat shrink on the switch wires prior to solder.

3. Tilted MaxFlex to push switch wires further toward switch cavity.

4. Trimmed switch tabs and soldered to wires. 

5. Slid heat shrink and use lighter to shrink. 

6. Positioned switch (after a quick multimeter test), in cavity, and in some silicone per Matt's guide. Didn't install press in switch cover/holder.

7. Soldered a bridge wire for series wiring to one led PCB

8. Applied too much thermal paste to first led PCB...........^%$^^#%#@#$#@!!!

9. Soldered first PCB while in place (in this case to ground) - excess paste making this harder than it should have been as I had to clean a bit off first as it crept over the sides of the PCB as I applied some pressure (note - don't use too much paste... in fairness I used too much paste because the first bit of paste in my paste tube was a bit runny)

10. Applied paste (right amount this time) on second led PCB, positioned, and trimmed + and the - bridge wire (after sizing bridge wire per Matt's instructions). Soldered final PCB wires while in place. This second PCB was easier than the first as the wires were held a the other end.

11. checked the rear wiring was still ok - all looked good - flipped MaxFlex and applied thermal tape then fixed it into its final position.

12. Soldered power wires (joined two wires in 'telegraphic twist' with heat shrink - under no strain). Checked three times. 

13. Connected battery with clips as the light has no connector yet - test run - all ok - phew!

14. Installed rear cover. It fit nicely and found resistance from the o-ring and not the wires. Applied locktite (blue) and tightened

15. Fitted optics and o-rings (sans lens for now). Installed front lens cover - (no locktite yet)

16. sized power cable (long enough to fit battery on downtube) - fitted connector (3-pin mini din style like my three batteries) - actually this was painful as the power cable was a bit thick. I had to trim it carefully with a knife.

17. Power up - all ok! Now what mode is the MaxFlex in?

18. Pressed in switch cover (yes Matt, I left this until last know that you said it doesn't come out - easily).

19 . Switch binding! Crap!!!:devil::devil::devil:

20. Tried to program MaxFlex - sluggish switch PITA!:devil::devil::devil:

21. Little lube on switch - all ok! BIG Cheer.

22. Set MaxFlex to 1000mA max for now.


All seems great. 

Concerns:


My led PCB solder is not the best looking - but it seems to hold. I'll check it again when I install the lens.
I hope the switch is water-proof. I don't plan on submersion so I guess it isn't a big concern and I don't plan on testing it. I might have been a bit hasty in waiting for the silicone to dry. I got it all over the place. I think this silicone was causing the sluggish switch.
I forgot how confusing programming a MaxFlex can be. Glad the switch is free now as it was a pain when it was sticking.

23. Crack a _'Fat Yak'_ pale ale.:thumbsup:


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## sosemot728 (May 20, 2010)

coldass said:


> The switch is not as tactile as I'd like - I might have got a bit of silicone in there somehow? That said it works perfectly and I am confident is sealed!!!
> 
> It is a small button but easy to locate and function.



Yeah you have to be careful to not get silicone, around the top of the switch, it is only really necessary to use silicone on the base of the switch and where the wires come through into the case to get a very good seal.

Overall, I have been very happy with this omron B3WN switch; its cheap, IP67 rated and durable. Plus I think it looks nicer than the giant 'jaycar' type version.



coldass said:


> Just did a back-2-back with my Exposure MaxxD (960 lumens). The GILI-6 blows it away.
> 
> CA.:thumbsup:



I'm glad you like it!


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## sosemot728 (May 20, 2010)

coldass said:


> Switch binding! Crap!!!:devil::devil::devil:
> 
> Little lube on switch - all ok! BIG Cheer.



If you haven't already put the switch cover on, I will mail you a new omron switch in the morning, use less silicone this time!


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## coldass (May 20, 2010)

matthewm said:


> Yeah you have to be careful to not get silicone, around the top of the switch, it is only really necessary to use silicone on the base of the switch and where the wires come through into the case to get a very good seal.
> 
> Overall, I have been very happy with this omron B3WN switch; its cheap, IP67 rated and durable. Plus I think it looks nicer than the giant 'jaycar' type version.



Yeah now the switch is free I really like it as well. I was worried I'd stuffed it. 

I have the giant 'jaycar' IP67/8 rated switch on another build and it while functional - it takes some real estate. Your gland is better than most DIY. 

I am sure I was too liberal with the sealant - getting some on the plunger when I pressed in the stopper (I even got sealant in the main chamber on the switch wire). The carrier for the lube cleared it - I used a tiny amount and wicked it away.

I achieved good isolation of the switch through heat shrink. So I guess I didn't even need the sealant.

I'd like to build my light again - I bet the second build would be very clean. 

I am too lazy to post the few photo's of the build just yet. I might wait for the beamshots to post them in one go. I don't want to run it too hot tonight as I should let the sealant and epoxy dry.

Thanks Matt.


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## coldass (May 20, 2010)

matthewm said:


> If you haven't already put the switch cover on, I will mail you a new omron switch in the morning, use less silicone this time!



Nah - its good now (edit: really free and tactile) and the cover is set. Thanks.


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## sosemot728 (May 20, 2010)

Finally got around to taking beamshots!

These two taken at ISO 100, 6.0 sec @ f/4.0, 45 mm








and these two taken at ISO 3200, 1/5 sec @ f/5.0, 24 mm








Photo's were taken in the city so there is a large amount of ambient light, I have included the extra shot for reference


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## coldass (May 20, 2010)

So here in my build. Note front cover not tight yet - no lens installed.


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## sosemot728 (May 22, 2010)

I know I said I wouldnt, but I did and I cant help myself.

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3562/frontlc.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7676/backqm.jpg

Reduced weight.
Reduced cost.
Reduced complexity.


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## sosemot728 (May 23, 2010)

matthewm said:


> I know I said I wouldnt, but I did and I cant help myself.
> 
> http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3562/frontlc.jpg
> http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7676/backqm.jpg
> ...



Any interest in a $99 kit price for gili-6 gen III?


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## coldass (May 23, 2010)

matthewm said:


> Any interest in a $99 kit price for gili-6 gen III?




Yes Matt, I'll have one.

T.


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## sosemot728 (May 24, 2010)

The following are from a good friend, who happens to have an amazing camera!

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/741/img7644d.jpg
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/6626/img7639h.jpg
http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4453/img7637e.jpg
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7092/img7630g.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/1089/img7629x.jpg

And yes that is an American penny...! I didn't think there much point in putting Australian dollars in the photo, our currency is embarrassing enough!


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## kwarwick (May 27, 2010)

matthewm said:


> I know I said I wouldnt, but I did and I cant help myself.
> 
> http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/3562/frontlc.jpg
> http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/7676/backqm.jpg
> ...



So the obvious visual difference is moving he switch to the back plate. Anything else noteworthy?


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## sosemot728 (May 29, 2010)

kwarwick said:


> So the obvious visual difference is moving he switch to the back plate. Anything else noteworthy?



Some slight internal differences to reduce weight by about 15~20 grams

I've been toying with something like this. Although these types of curves are much harder to make with a reliable level of quality... So this version will likely never be made.











Or this version...








This one has some rounding on the rear plate






Are there any aesthetic changes you would like to see?


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## kwarwick (May 29, 2010)

I haven't received my Gen II yet, so I might have some suggestions after doing that build, but one thing I would like to see is a location for the MaxFlex STAT LED. I know you're working with some really tight spaces, but if you could find a spot for a 2mm LED (or smaller if they exist) that would be great. Or maybe there is a illuminated version of the switch you are using that could be substituted?


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## coldass (May 29, 2010)

matthewm said:


> Some slight internal differences to reduce weight by about 15~20 grams
> 
> Are there any aesthetic changes you would like to see?



On an aesthetic basis:

I feel the current faceplate is too large in proportion to the lens size and smaller back plate. This is enhanced by the 'pause' made before the machined fins begin to allow for material for the face plate screws.

I think your gen-3 designs further highlight this.

The centered cable glad and top mounted switch is nicer.

A feature for an indicator led should be optional. I would not use the led and would not want to have to plug a hole. But I'd like the option.

Black works well with this design but I think a natural anodized finish would appear nicer, longer.

Could you leave more material for the mount hole. A square around the location. The taping into the fins looks a bit weak.

The internal cable holes - to the front led and switch cavity could be smoother/smoothed before anodizing. Things were sharp inside and I didn't want to relieve the anodizing with a file (not so much aesthetic as functional for the builder - but would have made a mess inside if I did take my file to the case).

So that's my aesthetic thoughts....


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## sosemot728 (May 29, 2010)

> The centered cable glad and top mounted switch is nicer.



Its may be nicer, but it is significantly more expensive to machine, my current goal is to reduce the cost as much as possible so that this case will be more affordable for everyone.



> A feature for an indicator led should be optional. I would not use the led and would not want to have to plug a hole. But I'd like the option.



Because the tolerances and clearances are so small inside the case, this will likely never happen.



> Black works well with this design but I think a natural anodized finish would appear nicer, longer.



I will not be offering a natural finish again.



> Could you leave more material for the mount hole. A square around the location. The taping into the fins looks a bit weak.



The increase in machining time to complete this is significantly higher than the current solution. Plus, I have done some simple strength tests and have yet been able to strip the connection.



> The internal cable holes - to the front led and switch cavity could be smoother/smoothed before anodizing. Things were sharp inside.



These edges already are being de-burred before anodizing, there should be NO sharp edges. I don't see the point in spending large amounts of extra machining time changing this.


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## sosemot728 (May 29, 2010)

kwarwick said:


> I haven't received my Gen II yet, so I might have some suggestions after doing that build, but one thing I would like to see is a location for the MaxFlex STAT LED. I know you're working with some really tight spaces, but if you could find a spot for a 2mm LED (or smaller if they exist) that would be great. Or maybe there is a illuminated version of the switch you are using that could be substituted?



Unfortunately there is no version of this switch with a LED


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## sosemot728 (May 31, 2010)

Weight saving!


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## sosemot728 (Jun 6, 2010)

Has anyone else got theirs built up?


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## kwarwick (Jun 6, 2010)

Built mine up a few days ago, but I have to wait for the UCL glass to arrivebefore I can take it outdoors for a proper shakedown ride.

From a build perspective everything went together smoothly with no surprises. For the internal wiring I used 24awg Teflon covered wire which is a lot thinner than the silicone covered stuff and I think helps a lot in the tight space available.

Comparing the beam profile to my other lights, in particular my Troutie 7up, I was pleasantly surprised to see this light produces a much tighter spot type beam which looks to be perfect for a helmet light. Only concern is the weight of the Gili 6 might preclude helmet use, but I will see if I can come up with a mount to give it a shot.

I do love the attention to detail you've put into the design, especially the o-rings used to seal up the front and back. Definitely don't lose that top mounted switch, I think its a key feature that works really well.

If I was to offer suggestions for improvement I'd say removing any weight you can would be welcome. I also agree with the comment that a little more "meat" around the mount hole would be a good idea. Oh and better quality anodizing please, mine has a ring around the back of the main housing section that is thin and rough and detracts from the otherwise quality look of the light.

Karl

http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii97/kwarwick/Lumen%20whoring/P1000325.jpg
http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii97/kwarwick/Lumen whoring/P1000327.jpg

*[over-size images replaced by links. Please read Rule 3. - DM51]*


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## h22 (Jun 7, 2010)

Is there another supplier for the XPG modules and optics other than Cutter?

Twice now I have tried to make an order from them, but once I get to the shipping adress page, It will not allow a US state to be entered. I do not know if they just do not ship to the US or if it is a web page issue, but first time i tried was over a month ago. :thinking:

Thanks, Joe


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## sosemot728 (Jun 7, 2010)

h22 said:


> Is there another supplier for the XPG modules and optics other than Cutter?
> 
> Twice now I have tried to make an order from them, but once I get to the shipping adress page, It will not allow a US state to be entered. I do not know if they just do not ship to the US or if it is a web page issue, but first time i tried was over a month ago. :thinking:
> 
> Thanks, Joe



http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w417.php

http://ledsupply.com/10507.php


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## kwarwick (Jun 7, 2010)

h22 said:


> Is there another supplier for the XPG modules and optics other than Cutter?
> 
> Twice now I have tried to make an order from them, but once I get to the shipping adress page, It will not allow a US state to be entered. I do not know if they just do not ship to the US or if it is a web page issue, but first time i tried was over a month ago. :thinking:
> 
> Thanks, Joe



LEDSupply.com has them and they're located in the US and provided very fast service when I ordered. 3up board: http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w417.php
Optics: http://ledsupply.com/carclo-optics-xpg-3up.php


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## sosemot728 (Jun 7, 2010)

matthewm said:


> http://ledsupply.com/creexpg-w417.php
> 
> http://ledsupply.com/10507.php



I WIN!

I need sleep... 1AM...


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## kwarwick (Jun 7, 2010)

matthewm said:


> I WIN!
> 
> I need sleep... 1AM...



That's cause I took a few more seconds to type a description for each link! Go to bed already!


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## h22 (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks guys!


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## kwarwick (Jun 8, 2010)

This looks like a good helmet mount for the Gili 6 and at least one possible source: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23534


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## sosemot728 (Jun 8, 2010)

kwarwick said:


> This looks like a good helmet mount for the Gili 6 and at least one possible source: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23534



Nice! Does that mount come with the bottom plate part (It is not shown in the retailers picture)


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## kwarwick (Jun 8, 2010)

matthewm said:


> Nice! Does that mount come with the bottom plate part (It is not shown in the retailers picture)



No sure, since the mount I'm using came with my Hope Vision 4. That piece is show as coming with the handlebar mount: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23533 but that doesn't really make sense since its not needed for that purpose. I guess you could buy both mounts and then you'd be covered for helmet and handlebar!


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## coldass (Jun 10, 2010)

matthewm said:


> Its may be nicer, but it is significantly more expensive to machine, my current goal is to reduce the cost as much as possible so that this case will be more affordable for everyone.
> 
> *CA: I'd like lower cost.*
> 
> ...



*CA: The holes to the switch were really sharp. If I wasn't really careful I feared a sheared wire. As it was the sharp edges 'shaved' some of the wire outer. Perhaps mine didn't get a full de-burring... *p.s - been away - sorry so long to reply. 

*My light is going strong. Still running it two-mode. I had some drama's with connectors while trying to change from my 3-pin metal mini din to Matt's standard mini molex. Still not 100% resolved until I buy some new batteries and a charger (my charger wants the 3-core wire and that's how my batteries are wired...). I have determined I want about a 3200mAh battery. My 2200mAh's (old to boot) just don't have enough capacity for the GILI-6's punch so a new battery is next step to completion. Might need to bug you for another connector Matt???.*


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## sosemot728 (Jun 10, 2010)

coldass said:


> Might need to bug you for another connector



No problem, send me a PM with what you need.


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## kwarwick (Jun 13, 2010)

I've had mine out for a couple of road rides now (as a helmet light), one was almost 2 hours, and the light performed flawlessly! I set the Maxflex thermal protection trip point at 60c but I never kicked in during the ride :thumbsup: (an indoor tests had it kick in as you'd expect). As a reference point, my Troutie 7up (on the handlebar) hit that same trip point a couple of times during the ride. Mind you the Troutie, being on the handlebars probably doesn't get the maximum cooling effect being up high on a helmet provides and also the Troutie is dealing with the cooling load of an additional emitter as well as the heat dissipation from the Maxflex boosting my 14.8v Lipo battery pack to drive that addition emitter. Still I think this shows that Matt has done an excellent job on the design with respects to thermal management. One of my buddies (who I also built a Troutie for) was envious and would likely be a customer if more of these were available... *hint* *hint*.


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## sosemot728 (Jun 26, 2010)

kwarwick said:


> One of my buddies (who I also built a Troutie for) was envious and would likely be a customer if more of these were available... *hint* *hint*.





If I was thinking of doing another larger (and cheaper) run, I need to know I have at least 10 pre-orders again.

Just a thought. Any takers?


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## Whitedog1 (Jul 5, 2010)

hi matthewm! 

Nice development here 

Have you ever thought about building it for 2x the 4up XPG boards?

I never mind if the switch is on the backplate or on top! From the machining side, keep it at the backplate!
But: It looks so small that it seems impossible to operate it in the winter when wearing gloves!

So probably you need a new switch here......

And, as posted from someone here already, i would also like to reduce the frontplate dimensions - the little optics and the big black area around it doesn't look so good! (Of course you need that for the screws)

To solve this you can take longer screws which are screwed in from the backplate side, holding the complete housing together!?:huh:

Ok, enough here, 
just my2c
Whitedog


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## sosemot728 (Jul 5, 2010)

Whitedog1 said:


> Have you ever thought about building it for 2x the 4up XPG boards?



Maybe another time.



Whitedog1 said:


> I never mind if the switch is on the backplate or on top! From the machining side, keep it at the backplate! But: It looks so small that it seems impossible to operate it in the winter when wearing gloves!



This will controlled by a micro-controller, Currently the plan is to utilize a momentary switch on the rear plate. I have not found any issues using the switch with gloves



Whitedog1 said:


> To solve this you can take longer screws which are screwed in from the backplate side, holding the complete housing together!?:huh:



I have thought about this, but I don't think the front plate will be thick enough, to contain the thread.


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## Whitedog1 (Jul 6, 2010)

matthewm said:


> I have thought about this, but I don't think the front plate will be thick enough, to contain the thread.


 
Perhaps you can use one size smaller countersunkhead screws.....this should help the front to look smoother:thinking:


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## Mettee (Jul 7, 2010)

Matt,

I am curious to see what one of these lights looks like assembled on the inside, one you built since I have seen others. Placement of the drivers and wires and such, and how the driver is heat sinked.

thanks,

drew


----------



## Mettee (Jul 7, 2010)

coldass said:


> Just did a back-2-back with my Exposure MaxxD (960 lumens). The GILI-6 blows it away. On 1000mA so another level to go! I won't go higher until I set the thermal cut.
> 
> I just changed to bike mode on the MaxFlex - but are still in duo-mode. (a sticking switch made this a pain).
> 
> ...



Any plans to change the switch other than the next gen light?


----------



## sosemot728 (Jul 7, 2010)

Mettee said:


> Matt,
> 
> I am curious to see what one of these lights looks like assembled on the inside, one you built since I have seen others. Placement of the drivers and wires and such, and how the driver is heat sinked.
> 
> ...



Hopefully these will answer your question. I have changed the switch design, it will be glued in the rear section.
























All I need is some degree of interest and I will order these through the machinist!


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## Mettee (Jul 7, 2010)

no those are not pictures those are renderings....


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## sosemot728 (Jul 7, 2010)

Mettee said:


> no those are not pictures those are renderings....



Yes they are...

I only have photos from the old design, they are in the build guide.

Here, http://www.2shared.com/document/9wRo8Nf_/guide.html


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## Mettee (Jul 8, 2010)

ok so you can not post a picture here(old design is fine)? I am not downloading something from a random site.


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## sosemot728 (Jul 8, 2010)

Mettee said:


> ok so you can not post a picture here? I am not downloading something from a random site.




No the only photos I have of the construction are in the guide.


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## Mettee (Jul 8, 2010)

well thats a bummer.

Maybe I will look to your sales thread and ask some of the other purchasers of complete lights and see what they have to say.

drew


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## sosemot728 (Jul 8, 2010)

Mettee said:


> well thats a bummer.
> 
> Maybe I will look to your sales thread and ask some of the other purchasers of complete lights and see what they have to say.
> 
> drew



I am confused about what you are asking, I just posted a link that has more than enough pictures of the assembly process.


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## Mettee (Jul 8, 2010)

how is asking for a picture of your work confusing? And with out having to go to some site to download who knows what. That is what this thread is for no? Seems like way too much work to me I will completely pass on your products. If its this hard to get a picture imagine if I needed warranty or something happened and I could not fix it, or spare parts for that matter.


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## sosemot728 (Jul 8, 2010)

Mettee said:


> how is asking for a picture of your work confusing? .




I have extracted the photos (via print screen) from the guide I have posted for you previously.


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## Mettee (Jul 9, 2010)

thanks. ok, so the maxflex is glued down onto the flat section in the second picture, is that correct?

I will add that I think the new version looks a little better to me where the switch and cable are on the back, and the switch has a rubber boot over it(looks like its rubber). Not only in looks but also as far as durability.


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## sosemot728 (Jul 10, 2010)

Mettee said:


> thanks. ok, so the maxflex is glued down onto the flat section in the second picture, is that correct?
> 
> I will add that I think the new version looks a little better to me where the switch and cable are on the back, and the switch has a rubber boot over it(looks like its rubber). Not only in looks but also as far as durability.



GenIII still has a similar configuration as GenII for the switch, there is no rubber boot. The difference is that the GenIII switch is mounted from the rear and glued in place.


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## Mettee (Jul 10, 2010)

Do you think you could improve upon that and add the switch cover? How hard would that be?

And instead of glue have it held mechanically, since gluing it in really makes replacing it hard. Switches fail eventually.


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## sosemot728 (Jul 10, 2010)

Mettee said:


> Do you think you could improve upon that and add the switch cover? How hard would that be?
> 
> And instead of glue have it held mechanically, since gluing it in really makes replacing it hard. Switches fail eventually.



The switch cover is not an improvement, it is just a different way of doing things. (mounting from the front compared to the rear)

The switch is rated for 100,000 operations, it will not fail within any reasonable time frame. The only cause of failure will be from intentional/accidental damage by the user. Due to the location of the switch head, you would almost have to destroy the light to damage the switch. 

http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-b3wn.pdf

I am looking into the possibility of having a replaceable switch mounted on a PCB.

I been working on a couple of boost and buck drivers.


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## sosemot728 (Aug 13, 2010)

Been playing with cad for the front face. Good idea or not?


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## sosemot728 (Aug 25, 2010)

refined


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## Whitedog1 (Aug 25, 2010)

matthewm said:


> refined


What do you mean with that?

I like the new frontplate design! It doesn't look so bulky now!:huh:


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## tybo52 (Mar 30, 2011)

.....


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## sosemot728 (Mar 31, 2011)

Anything involving the level of sealing required for dirty applications such a speleology, I would recommend some sort of hall effect switch that completely eliminates any possible of contamination


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## tybo52 (Mar 31, 2011)

.....


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