# Thinking of getting a small lathe...



## Jumpmaster (Jan 22, 2014)

Ok, well...I've read quite a few threads in here and also have been looking at mini-lathe.com to read up on small lathes...I've saved up enough to get one, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to recover the costs over time...or how long that might take...

I'd primarily be using it to make beads and things like that. I have a bad habit in that when I cannot buy something that is made in very limited quantities, then I end up just making the thing myself. That's how I ended up with a sewing machine and making pouches and stuff...

The last time I used a lathe was 1991...and it was a big lathe!  I didn't use it that much though, so there will be a learning curve if I get one now.

Anyway, apart from flashlight pieces, what sorts of cool stuff do you all make with your lathe? I saw that there is a mill attachment that allows some limited milling operations...is it worth it to get that too? I understand there will also be extra costs to get tooling to start working with the lathe. I know some advocate making your own tooling with the lathe, but others say to go ahead and buy it so you can get working faster.

Sorry for rambling...it's a big investment of funds (for me), so I'm just wondering if I should go ahead and get one...


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## calipsoii (Jan 22, 2014)

Buddy at work loaned me a Taig while I save for my PM1236.

All I can say is that the tooling is crazy expensive. The cost of getting chucks, cross-slides, milling attachments, quick-change toolposts, tool holders, etc dwarfed the cost of the lathe. The tooling is quite specific to that lathe too, so it's not like I can re-use it when I finally buy a larger one.

I'd also suggest having your blueprint finished and in-hand before you buy a bunch of drills, mills, reamers, taps etc. I started out buying random things I thought I'd be able to use (tap & die sets, etc) and haven't used any of them yet. So far every tool I've used has been purchased very specifically for a project and never used again.

Good luck!


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 22, 2014)

I looked up the PM1236...nice machine. Wish I had a friend thast would loan me a lathe. 

Yeah, I figured tooling would be expensive. Thanks on the advice to not go out and buy a ton of tools I don't need upfront...that is good advice.

Thanks for your reply...


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## Mattaus (Jan 22, 2014)

Interested to see how you go Jumpmaster. I'm considering purchasing a small mini-lathe myself to machine little items like P60 pills etc. I certainly do not need a large lathe. I don't think.


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## precisionworks (Jan 22, 2014)

Mattaus said:


> ... I certainly do not need a large lathe. I don't think.



LOL, that's how it always starts. A few years & quite a few thousand dollars later there's a lathe in the garage that weighs more than your car. I have no regrets about starting with a Southbend 10-K (10" or 254mm swing, 36" or 914mm bed). It paid for itself dozens of times & it's somewhat difficult to get hurt on a smaller belt drive machine. Then came the current machine with a headstock bore of 1.875" (48mm) & it hit me that I waited way too long to up-size. 

The bigger headstock bore is perfect for the 1.750" (45mm) Delrin rod that's machined into flashlight boring fixtures. Making those fixtures on the smaller Southbend would have been a genuine PITA but it's quick & easy on the larger machine. 

Bigger machines often have a lower low speed & a faster high speed. They may cut more different threads (both English & Metric) & are usually gear head drive, meaning that it's nearly impossible to stall the spindle. Also meaning that carelessness may be rewarded with broken body parts. Fine surface finishes are easier to obtain on a heavy machine that dampens vibration. 

Nothing wrong with starting small if your space & budget are limited. If space & funds are available you'll be happy that you went bigger.


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## Mattaus (Jan 22, 2014)

Yeah I read this a lot Barry. Space is an issue, but even more so is being able to justify the added cost. Time will tell - Jumpmaster seems set on what he needs so I'll see how long until he posts a "looking for a larger lathe" thread haha.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


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## TexasLumens (Jan 23, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> LOL, that's how it always starts. A few years & quite a few thousand dollars later there's a lathe in the garage that weighs more than your car. I have no regrets about starting with a Southbend 10-K (10" or 254mm swing, 36" or 914mm bed). It paid for itself dozens of times & it's somewhat difficult to get hurt on a smaller belt drive machine. Then came the current machine with a headstock bore of 1.875" (48mm) & it hit me that I waited way too long to up-size.
> 
> The bigger headstock bore is perfect for the 1.750" (45mm) Delrin rod that's machined into flashlight boring fixtures. Making those fixtures on the smaller Southbend would have been a genuine PITA but it's quick & easy on the larger machine.
> 
> ...



+1 ! Many years ago I probably had the same thought.... " I certainly don't need a large lathe" .... Turns out, I was right wrong...right.... WELL.... whatever.... I needed TWO Large Lathes, A little mill, A large mill, A CNC Mill, A...A... And it just goes on! But, Machines don't spoil, they don't lose value if cared for properly, and if the required skill is added can make a few $$. Just Sayin.... It's ADDICIVE! But a good addiction! Dan.


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 23, 2014)

Yes, those are all valid points to keep in mind. I don't really have space (or funds) to get a larger lathe...but from your comments, I do appreciate that they will work better all around than a small lathe. Maybe one day...


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## gadget_lover (Jan 23, 2014)

The most important thing to keep in mind is that all the lathes work in basically the same way. The experience you get with a small lathe will translate to a larger one. There is no requirement to sell the small one when you upgrade. Sometimes the mini-lathe is handy when your bigger equipment is in use.

I have a real small one (7x12) and a medium size one (9x20). I make all sorts of things. One of the oddities of have noticed is the tendency to make tools and parts for your machine tools. 

Using the lathe I have made...

Flashlights. 
Custom mount for my wife's steering column shroud when the plastic towers broke from age.
New handle for the wind up hose caddy.
Emergency adapter to drain a leaking waterbed.
Threaded plug for the faucet when the plumber wanted to backflush the pipe.
Muffler adapter for my generator.
Small handgun barrel (in progress).
Wooden fountain pens. 
A wood toothpick holder for my brother.
Handles for very fine wire, used to clean the shower head.
Screws and bolts.
Spacers, drifts and arbors.

I'm sure I missed a few things.

It's funny how sometimes I have a choice between running to the store to buy something or running to the garage to make it. It's cheaper to make it simply because I don't make $100 impulse buys.

Daniel


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## las3r (Jan 23, 2014)

Hurry and get a PM1236 before the price reaches 4K.....About twice a year it goes up $100 and bigger the lathe the better.


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## TexasLumens (Jan 23, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Yes, those are all valid points to keep in mind. I don't really have space (or funds) to get a larger lathe...but from your comments, I do appreciate that they will work better all around than a small lathe. Maybe one day...



You can do a tremendous mount of work with a small lathe! Get what you have room for and use it. Then trade it for a larger unit or sell it when ....if... you decide to get a larger one. I think a lot of us started just like that. Dan


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 25, 2014)

Ok, all excellent advice, so far...thank you!!

Well, can anyone give me a ballpark figure on what tooling I'd need and approximate cost for making things like beads, spinning tops, things like that, please? I know I'm nowhere near talented or skilled enough to make flashlight pieces, so wanted to start out relatively simply.


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## Speedfreakz (Jan 25, 2014)

You may have already looked but try looking around for used lathes. Schools, shops, etc. They are out there. I was offered a good lathe 600, the problem? It was about 12feet long and could have turned big diesel cranks on it. Just didn't have the space. I did get a brown and sharp no 2 machine with a rotary table and a couple of vises but alas time is not on my side and is for sale or headed for scrap. 
Yes tooling is expense but don't try and scrimp. Good luck.


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## precisionworks (Jan 25, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> ... can anyone give me a ballpark figure on what tooling I'd need and approximate cost ...



New Chinese tooling (Shars, Grizzly, etc.) costs about the same as used USA/Japanese/Euro tooling on eBay. If you need it quick buy Chinese ... or patiently look & buy USA/Japanese/Euro tooling on eBay. 

Some basic stuff:



Keyed drill chuck to mount in the tailstock. Used a lot. 
QCTP sized to fit the machine you choose 
Holders for the QCTP 
Tools that fit in the holders for the QCTP 
Inserts for the tools you select 
Something to measure inside & outside diameters 

That's enough to get started. Add tooling as needed.


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## gadget_lover (Jan 25, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Ok, all excellent advice, so far...thank you!!
> 
> Well, can anyone give me a ballpark figure on what tooling I'd need and approximate cost for making things like beads, spinning tops, things like that, please? I know I'm nowhere near talented or skilled enough to make flashlight pieces, so wanted to start out relatively simply.




The small lathe comes with a lot of things. Some models come with two chucks, some turning tools and a faceplate along with other accessories.

You will want calipers, a dial indicator with magnetic base and a micrometer. All are available cheap from places like CDCO (cdcotools.com).

The QCTP is a really nice accessory, but you can get by with the 4 station turret tool post that comes with most lathes if you are eager to jump in. If you use the standard tool post you will need to get tools that are the right size so the cutting edge comes to the exact middle of the chuck. A set of 3/8 or 5/16 inch turning tools for a 7x10 mini lathe is less than $25 at CDCO. The 5/16 can be raised by a shim to fit a tool post that needs 3/8.

Daniel


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 26, 2014)

Thanks to you both for the info on tools to start out with...that will definitely help me in my research. 

Thanks again!


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## Tmad (Jan 26, 2014)

I've had a HF 7x10 and it's not bad just know what it does and doesn't do. Know that you'll need to work very close to the chuck and work on small pieces (probably 1" dia and under). BUT it's been great for tweaking little things here and there on different mods. Like cutting a reflector down just a bit or making a heatsink a little better or fixing threads etc. To me, it's great for customizing things and making very small things. The 8x12 model is much more rigid, just look at the weights, 7x10=87lbs, 8x12=256lbs. With Lathes it's all about rigidity and more mass=more rigid.


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 26, 2014)

Tmad said:


> I've had a HF 7x10 and it's not bad just know what it does and doesn't do. Know that you'll need to work very close to the chuck and work on small pieces (probably 1" dia and under). BUT it's been great for tweaking little things here and there on different mods. Like cutting a reflector down just a bit or making a heatsink a little better or fixing threads etc. To me, it's great for customizing things and making very small things. The 8x12 model is much more rigid, just look at the weights, 7x10=87lbs, 8x12=256lbs. With Lathes it's all about rigidity and more mass=more rigid.



Oh, well that sucks...I didn't know I'd be limited to working right up where the chuck is...

Guess I won't be getting one after all...that's kind of ridiculous...the 8"x12" one costs $200 more than the 7"x12". I've also read that the 8x12 is completely different than thge 7x12...I guess it should be for that extra 200 bucks...


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## HarryN (Jan 27, 2014)

From what I have seen, you can save a lot of tooling cost if you can afford to spring for a cnc driven lathe or mill.


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## gadget_lover (Jan 27, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Oh, well that sucks...I didn't know I'd be limited to working right up where the chuck is...
> 
> Guess I won't be getting one after all...that's kind of ridiculous...the 8"x12" one costs $200 more than the 7"x12". I've also read that the 8x12 is completely different than thge 7x12...I guess it should be for that extra 200 bucks...



I don't quite agree with Tmad. The limitations of the 7x12 is mainly depth of cut and length between centers. When you work on a 6 inch long flashlight body you need to support the end of the flashlight, but that's true of any lathe where the work is bigger than will fit totally within the chuck. If I remember correctly, I've put a 2 D cell maglite on my 7x12. I've made a 4 inch diameter backplate from a 5 inch diameter blank.

The flimsier the piece you work on, the more support it needs and the closer to the support you should work.

Dan


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 27, 2014)

Well, that helps...I would mainly be working with solid bars of various materials, I think...then drilling holes with a drill press (e.g. for beads, for instance)...

So...is it not possible to have a live center on the 7x12 to support it?


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## precisionworks (Jan 27, 2014)

What Dan said /\

With any size machine a1 inch diameter part should have no more than 1 inch projecting from the chuck's face. A 2 inch diameter part can have two inches of projection. My machine swings 14 inches and weighs almost 3,000 pounds and I still try to work close to the chuck. Live center tail stocks and steady rests were invented for long parts.

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk


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## gadget_lover (Jan 27, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Well, that helps...I would mainly be working with solid bars of various materials, I think...then drilling holes with a drill press (e.g. for beads, for instance)...
> 
> So...is it not possible to have a live center on the 7x12 to support it?



It IS possible to have a live center. I have several for mine.  One is a "bullnose" that is for large tubes. Another is compact, and yest another has interchangeable tips. That one is not very accurate and seems to be made for wood turning. 


What size beads do you make? 

Daniel


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## BVH (Jan 27, 2014)

Jump, just some thoughts from a non-machinist. I try to work close to the chuck with my 12-36 machine but many times I'll have a piece of 3/4 stock sticking out 3", maybe even a bit more from the chuck with no support and machine away! I don't make hog cuts. I've not had to trash anything I've made. I've used everything, save maybe some practice pieces when I first got started. Granted, most of the parts I make do not need to be of a precision that the veterans here achieve day in, day out. If your making beads and other non-precision parts, you can bend the rules and get away with it quite easily and be happy with the results. There's theoretical and there's real world. I deal with both, each at the appropriate time.


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 28, 2014)

Ok, that is reassuring to hear. 

I've seen videos of people with small lathes that are cutting several small items at a time and parting them off of the main workpiece as they're finished...

It's been a while since I've checked out the mini-lathes at HF in person...maybe I'll stop by the store and check them out again one day this week...


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## precisionworks (Jan 29, 2014)

From a previous thread:



> ... I think that to start, you can't beat a good 7x lathe. The 8x lathe (like the 8x14) is larger/heavier/stiffer, but the built-in speed control makes the 7x much user friendly. Here is an old post of mine when I got my used one:
> Cummings 7x12 lathe ...
> 
> 
> ...



Which ever you choose be sure to use the January 2014 coupon for 20% off: 12260182

The 7x10 is $415.99 after the coupon, the 7x12 is $479.99, the 8x12 is $639.99.

Maybe WQuiles will weigh in. If you can find a used 8x12 the price may be less than a new 7" machine.

There's a comparison of mini lathes on LittleMachineShop (& of course it favors the one they sell so take it for what it's worth): http://littlemachineshop.com/info/minilathe_compare.php

Lots to read if you have some time: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/search.php?searchid=2052842


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 29, 2014)

Thank you for the coupon code!!!

Unfortunately, it says the lathe is backordered (the 7" x 12")...I wonder if there's a way to use the coupon at the store in case they have one here...

Ok, well fun times...so I called my local store and they don't have the lathe in stock. They told me "the warehouse shows we have one available" and I said, "Well can you order it so I can pick it up here?" and he said, "No...we just get whatever they send us. We can't order anything."

Really??? Ok, fine...so I called their 800 number and after navigating their ridiculous phone menu, I finally talked to some guy that tried to convince me multiple times that the one in their warehouse is a "floor model". Floor model...in a warehouse...Right.

They could not give me any accurate timeframe of when this thing will be available. He said maybe the 28th of February...but it could be sooner or later than that. That really wasn't any help whatsoever.

I wonder if there's anywhere else that sells this lathe...going to look around and see what I can find...


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## BVH (Jan 29, 2014)

For about $150 more, you'd get a much more rigid 8x12 machine and a little more capability. For $150, I'd make the jump. You'll be much happier down the road. And maybe they'll have that one available?


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 29, 2014)

Nah...it's "backordered" too...

I appreciate the advice on the 8x12"...if I get that one, I won't have much left for tooling...

I'll probably just keep saving up until I have enough for it and the tooling...it'll just take longer...

It sounds like from what everyone's saying, I should stay away from the 7"x10"...oddly enough, that is the one model they do have in stock both online and in my local store...


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## precisionworks (Jan 29, 2014)

" ... I'll probably just keep saving up until I have enough for it and the tooling...it'll just take longer... "

Trust me, if you do that you'll still be saving on the day your heart stops beating. Buy what you can buy to start with an add tools as necessary. The 8x12 comes with everything you need to get started with the exception of a tool - brazed on carbide tipped tools are less than $5 each & $20 buys all you need to get started. 

Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using Tapatalk


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 29, 2014)

Yeah, you are probably right about waiting...

I know right now, I could go buy the 7" x 10" and have enough for a few tools...and some bars to start with...but from what I've read, I should skip the 7" x 10", right?

To get the 8" x 12", I would probably have to wait another 6 months to a year, depending on when the things I'm selling now sell...


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## wquiles (Jan 29, 2014)

Barry already covered the basic stuff well, so there is little to add (but I will try anyway!).

If you search this sub-forum for threads started by "wquiles", you will see several threads of "stuff" made with the 7x and the 8x lathes that I used to own, including this thread, including lathe tooling, inserts for Aluminum (which are fantastic on a small, lightweight lathe!):
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?171871-Mods-for-my-HF-8x14-lathe&highlight=

The 8x is a much nicer, stiffer, and heavier lathe than the 7x, but the variable speed on the 7x makes it a lot easier to start with. In fact, putting a variable speed drive on the 8x is one of the first, if not most important things to do in the 8x - changing belts is so 20th century!

The 8x does not have a "much" larger work envelope, but the heavier weight and extra stiffness is very nice to have. Of course, you can pretty much do anything on the 7x, just have to take lighter cuts, take longer to do, watch for chatter, etc..

But my current 12x is the smaller "I" would consider owning:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?216408-my-new-lathe-Precision-Matthews-12x36&highlight=

Actually, I would rather have the larger/heavier lathe Barry has, but the 12x has been more than adequate, so I "really" shouldn't complain much. Now that I can weld, I do have a pending project to completely replace the wimpy/lightweight bases/stands that come with the 12x with a new heavy-duty, one-piece, reinforced, steel base, but I am just being picky and want to extract even more accuracy out of the 12x to make it even more heavy/stiff - maybe I will get that going in 2014 

Will


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## darkzero (Jan 29, 2014)

Wow, I can't believe how much the HF mini lathes cost now! I got my HF 8x14 for $390 OTD with tax. I loved that little lathe & miss it. Luckily I decided not to sell it & gave it to my brother. If I had to do it again, I'd still choose the 8x over the 7x.


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## wquiles (Jan 29, 2014)

darkzero said:


> If I had to do it again, I'd still choose the 8x over the 7x.



+1

Of course, Will is right 


Will


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 29, 2014)

In an ideal world, I would be getting the 8x!!  But my funds will only allow a 7x right now...I'm afraid I really would be waiting a very long time before I could afford the 8x and tooling for it.

From what y'all have said and what I've read in other places, it sounds like starting out on the 7x will demand proper technique from me, so maybe it would be good to at least start out with it...

Sounds like no matter which one I get, I will be spending some time degreasing it and cleaning it up.

One place I read that I should make sure to wear eye pro (already was planning on that!) and an apron due to !metal shavings. Do you all have to dig out metal splinters from your fingers a lot? Trying to figure the best way of keeping the shavings cleared out. I read a review where one guy said shavings got onto the electronic control board and shorted something out in there...that doesn't sound like fun...


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## precisionworks (Jan 29, 2014)

> ... and an apron due to metal shavings. Do you all have to dig out metal splinters from your fingers a lot?


Aprons are good, coveralls are good, long sleeve cotton shirts are good, pretty much whatever you like. If you wear short sleeves you'll get branded every now & then but that's more annoying than dangerous. Metal splinters are a fact of life & Sliver Grippers are the best I've found. About $6 online or from http://www.slivergripper.com/ The slivers that hurt the most are the really tiny ones that go in deep & it helps to have good light & a magnifier to get those out.


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## gadget_lover (Jan 30, 2014)

Read up on safety before you turn it on. Even a 7x10 has a 1/2 horse motor and spins a heavy chuck at more than 2000 RPM. If you catch a sleeve on the spinning chuck it can pull you right in real fast. No gloves allowed. On the 7x10 or 7x12 you will have hot chips but none so hot that they will brand you.

BTW, the mini-lathes come up on craigslist fairly often in metropolitan areas. One a month or so. They often sell with only a few hours use simply because people buy them as starter or learning machines. There is not a lot to go wrong with a used one that can't be fixed.

I have had virtually no aluminum splinters and only a couple of steel ones in the last few years. I do track a fair amount of swarf (metal shavings) around. The foam rubber mats are softer than my shoes so they tend to trap the chips fairly well. 

Daniel


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## will (Jan 30, 2014)

I have been using an ENCO 7x10 lathe for lots of years now. This is pretty much the same as all the other 7x10s out there. I am limited to size, and to some extent material. I work aluminum, delrin, wood. For me, it is handy, I can move it around easily. There are times when a bigger machine would have been better. I bought mine used off ebay. I use HSS tools as I can grind my own profiles.


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 30, 2014)

Thanks for the safety info...I know to keep long sleeves and all out of moving machinery...could cause some horrific injuries...like that episode of "EMERGENCY!"...

Hey, Will (and anyone else that would care to weigh in)...if I were very careful not to make too deep cuts at a time and had appropriate tooling, do you think I'd be able to cut titanium with the 7" x 10"? It would be nice to work with titanium eventually, even if it would be very, very slow...


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## wquiles (Jan 30, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Thanks for the safety info...I know to keep long sleeves and all out of moving machinery...could cause some horrific injuries...like that episode of "EMERGENCY!"...
> 
> Hey, Will (and anyone else that would care to weigh in)...if I were very careful not to make too deep cuts at a time and had appropriate tooling, do you think I'd be able to cut titanium with the 7" x 10"? It would be nice to work with titanium eventually, even if it would be very, very slow...



Since there are two of us (Will), I will go first 

Yes, of course. You can work with Ti on the 7x, but having the right tooling/inserts will make a big difference. Ti will eat through through tooling/inserts at a much higher rate than Al, and mild steel, so your costs end up being higher. Having some sort of coolant (or Will's cold air gun) would also help keep the cutting edge cooler, which will help with longevity.

There are a couple of threads in this subforum about folks working with Titanium - search for Titanium in the subject line 

Will


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## darkzero (Jan 30, 2014)

Well actually there are three of us here in this subforum, can't for get will who just posted above. WillQ sometimes refers to me as good Will & I know why but I wasn't such a good Will in my younger years, I was quite the trouble maker. 

WillQ had both a 7x & a 8x so he could comment better. I ventured into machining Ti with the 8x14. Yes you definitely will have to take light cuts & projects can take a long time to complete. I was already sick of having to take light cuts with just steels & especially stainless. Machining Ti is somewhat closer to machining some grades of SS. That was one of the reason that pushed me to get a bigger lathe. Aside from size, the other factor was feed rates. I really hated changing gears back & forth & that can get old very quick. 

Although I favor the 8x over the 7x, if that's what is more practical for you to get now, I say to go for it already. You'll never know if machining is something you want to do until you do it. The 7x will definitely tell you that & you will learn a lot from it. Many people have 7xs & there are many mods & resources for it too. 

After all, I used to get parts made from will & wquiles for my flashlight mods before I even got my own lathe. will used to make the heatsinks for me that I used to make these & he also used to fin/grooved & cutdown/rethread MiniMags for me too.


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## will (Jan 30, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Hey, Will (and anyone else that would care to weigh in)...if I were very careful not to make too deep cuts at a time and had appropriate tooling, do you think I'd be able to cut titanium with the 7" x 10"? It would be nice to work with titanium eventually, even if it would be very, very slow...



I had problems cutting steel and stainless steel. The 7x10 is a nice machine with plastic feed gears. I would personally stay away from titanium. Great on most non ferrous metals. My greatest successes are with aluminum, wood, plastics, brass, and any other softer materials. 

( still have and use the paracord carbiners you made, )


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## will (Jan 31, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Sounds like no matter which one I get, I will be spending some time degreasing it and cleaning it up.
> 
> 
> One place I read that I should make sure to wear eye pro (already was planning on that!) and an apron due to !metal shavings. Do you all have to dig out metal splinters from your fingers a lot? Trying to figure the best way of keeping the shavings cleared out. I read a review where one guy said shavings got onto the electronic control board and shorted something out in there...that doesn't sound like fun...



I keep mine fairly clean. I remove the chips, which are usually 'coils' by hand, or sometimes with the shop vac. The wood chips are picked up with the shop vac. Some of the wood I turn, I attach the vacuum hose right on top of the cutting tool to vacuum the dust as I am cutting. ( for sure when I cut cocobolo wood - can cause a rash on skin ) I don't remember getting any splinters over the years, It the chips are really nasty - gloves or pliers to pick up the chips. 

I did attach a flexible plastic cover over the on/off switch and the speed control, It is like a flap. I had some wood dust get in that and I had to clean out the switch. 

I use kerosene for most cutting of aluminum. I also use kerosene to keep it clean. I got a number of different size tube brushes, sometimes called bottle brushes to get in between the various openings. 

I rebuild various small parts for HO trains, that was my initial reason for getting the lathe. Everything for that was small and the 7x10 fit great for that. It wasn't until years later that I started to mess around with flashlights. I messed up a maglite aa on the lathe. I decided to cut some groove and created something I did not like. I got the idea to cover my mistake with some exotic wood. 

Here again, I am happy with my 7x10. If I could justify a larger lathe, I would do that, but I do not do that much work.


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 31, 2014)

Ok, well great! Thanks for all this good info from y'all!

Looks like I might start out with the 7" x 10" since it is available. I have been checking craigslist, but there haven't been any in my area. I would probably be looking for a long time...I've also read to make sure and get the extended warranty from HF...some said they've needed it due to burned up motors, bad power switches, etc.

I didn't know you could use kerosene when cutting...that is good to know.

I used to use varsol a lot to clean parts when I worked at the airport...I was pretty young and quite stupidly did not wear gloves. Ended up getting what I think were chemical burns from it.

For the chips, I was thinking about using the shop vac for that, but wasn't sure how well it would work. It is very humid here, so I was planning on keeping appropriate parts greased with white lithium grease...that should protect it from rusting, right?

I read someone sanded their ways with sandpaper and gathered that that isn't a good idea...I wouldn't think it would be on a precision machine like a lathe...but it made me wonder why they thought they needed to do that...I wonder it was rough or something.

I think I will probably go by HF after work today and pick it up...then I need to figure out which QCTP I should get and other tooling...

Also, can anyone recommend a good source for round bar stock please? I have looked at McMaster-carr and they don't seem to stock as much as they used to...at least in round bars...

Thanks again for the info everyone...especially for not talking to me like I'm an idiot...


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## gadget_lover (Jan 31, 2014)

The sanding is a bad idea. They probably had some rust that they felt compelled to remove.

Grease is a great way to get the swarf to stick to the ways, and is generally not used. A big lathe should have a way oil such as Vectra to protect it from rust and keep things moving smoothly. A mini lathe can get away with just about any medium light oil on the ways since the carriage is fairly lightweight. 

As for stock... I buy mine by the pound from the local metal supply and recycle center. There might be a SIMS or ALCO around you somewhere. I have not figured out where 'more COWBELL' might be. I've ordered online from http://www.onlinemetals.com/ as well as MSC.

Daniel


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 31, 2014)

"More cowbell" is about 85 miles south of the dark side of the moon.

The mini-lathe site were the ones saying to use white lithium grease. I guess I will use some motor oil then...

Thanks...


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## wquiles (Jan 31, 2014)

gadget_lover said:


> I've ordered online from http://www.onlinemetals.com/ as well as MSC.



And I would like to add ebay as another source to the ones listed by Daniel. I always compare online sources to ebay, as sometimes ebay is either, same price (don't bother), more expensive (what are they smoking?), or incredibly super low (now we are talking!). I have purchase "scrap" pieces of Titanium that are "perfect" for some of my projects for pennies on the dollar. Same for tooling - in fact, I have been buying inserts "exclusively" on ebay now for the last 1-2 years.


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 31, 2014)

Cool...I will check those places and also eBay... Thank you!


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## precisionworks (Jan 31, 2014)

> ... I have been buying inserts "exclusively" on eBay now for the last 1-2 years.


Many of my inserts are eBay items, some are from Curt at LatheInserts dot com (who also sells tooling packages for small machines), others from YourToolingStore dot com (where most of my Aloris & Dorian holders were purchased). Maybe I paid retail for one insert but that was so long ago I can't remember.

Most of my aluminum flat & round stock comes from Gary's Monster Metal Mart, about 45 minutes away. $500 buys a pickup load & it takes no time to break even & start making money. Titanium-6-4 is eBay only since it costs $10/inch at McMaster, $3/inch on eBay. Pricey stuff either way & it eats tooling up like no other material. AR500 is miserable but Ti-6-4 is worse. After you've figured out how to run 4140 pre hard, 316SS & 304SS you're just about ready to work Ti. Personally it's one of my favorites but some shops refuse to even quote a part in Ti-6-4. 

Best oil for lathe & mill ways? Way oil. 5 gallons lasts a long time on a small machine, about a year on a larger machine. 



> For the chips, I was thinking about using the shop vac for that, ...


My big industrial vac has a 2 1/2" diameter hose & chips will plug it up in 2 seconds flat. A magnet on a stick is good for ferrous stuff, broom & dust pan for aluminum or Ti. 



> I read someone sanded their ways with sandpaper ...


I read a similar article where they used sandpaper instead of toilet paper. Doesn't work well in either application. 



> I keep mine fairly clean.


The condition of a lathe says a lot about the operator. If the machine is clogged up with chips, tooling is beat up & rusty, etc. that's a great example of what not to do. Cleaner is better. Image below shows my lathe cleaned, oiled, ready to work.


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## gadget_lover (Jan 31, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> .
> 
> My big industrial vac has a 2 1/2" diameter hose & chips will plug it up in 2 seconds flat. A magnet on a stick is good for ferrous stuff, broom & dust pan for aluminum or Ti.



I use a small 1 gallon shop vac. I use a thick wall vinyl tube as a hose. The smooth sides don't catch the swarf like a shop-vac hose does. The vinyl hose is sold by the foot at the hardware store. The thick walls keep it from collapsing. I almost never have a clog. The hose is about 1.5 inch OD. 


Daniel


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## precisionworks (Jan 31, 2014)

gadget_lover said:


> ... I use a thick wall vinyl tube as a hose. The smooth sides don't catch the swarf like a shop-vac hose does...



That is a great idea Daniel. Sometimes the clog is right at the junction of the hose & the canister & the clear hose would show the location of any stoppage. There are some tubing choices at McMaster but the lowest price is $7.70/foot - any source you know of that would charge less?


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## gadget_lover (Jan 31, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> That is a great idea Daniel. Sometimes the clog is right at the junction of the hose & the canister & the clear hose would show the location of any stoppage. There are some tubing choices at McMaster but the lowest price is $7.70/foot - any source you know of that would charge less?



Unfortunately, I bought it at the local Orchard Supply Hardware before it was bought by Sears which was bought by K-mart. So much has changed there. I don't know if they still carry it.

Dan


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## Jumpmaster (Jan 31, 2014)

That straight vinyl tubing is a great idea...I hope I can find some locally to fit my vac...

Oh, I got the lathe tonight...going to start cleaning it up in the morning...

I think I'm going to start out with non-metallic beads first...like some beads I have with several layers of exotic woods...then move up to aluminum or brass, etc.

I guess it is probably a bad idea to polish items while they are on the lathe, right? Maybe I can get a collet to turn them on my Foredom for polishing...sorry, just thinking aloud...even though it's typed and not really 'aloud'...


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## will (Feb 1, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> I guess it is probably a bad idea to polish items while they are on the lathe, right? Maybe I can get a collet to turn them on my Foredom for polishing...sorry, just thinking aloud...even though it's typed and not really 'aloud'...



Not sure what you mean by polish. I have sanded the wood objects while they spin on the lathe. I have used polishing wheels on a drill while spinning aluminum parts on the lathe. 

IF you polish aluminum using a buffing wheel - go against the 'grain' to remove cutter marks. 

Any sanding or polishing that I do - I completely clean the lathe, move the carriage out of the way and cover it. When I finish. I wipe everything down with a clean rag that has a little kerosene on it, then re-oil the ways. 

Not mentioned here - at some time get a lever kit to lock the tailstock in place. Most small lathe use a wrench and nut to tighten. This takes a lot of time and generally is a pain. I got mine from ' The Little Machine Shop' I also painted the left edge of the bottom plate on the tailstock because there are times when it will move around and not be in the correct position to lock. This happens when I remove the tailstock from the lathe. 

just a note while working on the lathe - I stand slightly to the right of the area that I am cutting. Should anything fly off, it tends to be parallel to the area being cut. 

Something else I use - I bought one of those lights that have a large magnifying lens in the center. the lens is surrounded by a circular flourescent bulb. great when you work small parts. Just be careful because if the flicker of the bulb matches the speed of the lathe, the work appears not to be moving.


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## HarryN (Feb 2, 2014)

If you just want a manual lathe, take a look at craigslist. There are always listing for them around here.


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## Jumpmaster (Feb 2, 2014)

I already got one...have a lot of the parts soaking to remove the red gunk right now...

I'd already been checking craigslist for quite a while, but there wasn't anything around...


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## wquiles (Feb 3, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> I already got one...have a lot of the parts soaking to remove the red gunk right now...



Photos, or otherwise it did not happen


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## tylernt (Feb 3, 2014)

will said:


> I had problems cutting steel and stainless steel.


 I have no problem cutting mild 1018/A36 steel and 416 stainless on my 7x10. (The type of stainless makes a big difference, I would not care to even try 316 or 304.) For larger diameters (up towards 3") you lose a lot of torque at low RPM, so DOC (Depth of Cut) has to stay light to avoid stalling the motor. But for smaller diameters, no problem. I've even turned (O-1) tool steel, though that's definitely unpleasant. However, I use only HSS tool bits, even though that seems to leave me in the minority here. Also, the 7x10 requires some work before it will perform well, including a complete disassembly, cleaning, lube, alignment, and adjustment of all the gibs. A tuned up and tight 7x is a completely different lathe than the dirty sloppy lump that comes in the box.


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## Jumpmaster (Feb 3, 2014)

tylernt said:


> Also, the 7x10 requires some work before it will perform well, including a complete disassembly, cleaning, lube, alignment, and adjustment of all the gibs. A tuned up and tight 7x is a completely different lathe than the dirty sloppy lump that comes in the box.



Yep. That's why I'm taking it apart and cleaning it. 

I'll try to post pics later...


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## Jumpmaster (Feb 5, 2014)

Couple of pics...cleaned parts...still working on the rest of it...


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## tylernt (Feb 5, 2014)

Don't forget to take the back off the chuck (three small screws) so you can oil the bevel gears.


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## precisionworks (Feb 6, 2014)

Grease works much better than oil for the chuck internals. Any medium viscosity grease is OK & lasts a long time.

Which parts get the grease is important ... the _back side of the scroll_ & the _chuck key pinions and the pinion gear teeth_ need grease. The front side of the scroll that contacts the back side of the chuck jaws gets no grease.


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## Jumpmaster (Feb 6, 2014)

Your pic is very helpful, precisionworks...thank you!!


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## precisionworks (Feb 6, 2014)

You're certainly welcome Jumpmaster. 

That's my Bison Set-Tru chuck shown in the image & I've done the clean & grease thing a couple of times. For all practical purposes a 3-jaw scroll chuck is a sealed unit & it's difficult for anything much to get to the inside working areas. However, new chucks from Asia come (usually) with Petrified Cod Fish Oil as a preservative/lubricant & you're doing the right thing by cleaning & re greasing. 

Whenever my chuck feels hard to loosen or tighten it's time to pull all three jaws, spin the scroll plate against a clean toothbrush, run a clean toothbrush against the back of all jaws, lightly lube with whatever looks good & re insert the jaws. If you're running something that's "free machining" like 12L14 or Stressproof 1144 (small coiled chips) the jaws may need frequent cleaning. Material with chips that don't break (aluminum & titanium) cause fewer chuck problems.


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## HarryN (Feb 8, 2014)

Just tagging onto your excellent lathe decision thread on lathe size decisions. Assuming a person wanted to:
- Hold a long round bar of stock
- Diameter - large enough for a typical D size flashlight head
- Completely inside of the chuck (perhaps inside of a collet ? )
- The idea being that you could make multiple in a row from the same piece of long round bar stock, and then cut them off, move the stock forward for the next one.

This appears to need something in the 14-16 inch swing range ? Is that right ?

Thanks

Harry


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## gadget_lover (Feb 8, 2014)

My maglite head is 2.25 inches in diameter. A bar feeder for that size stock would need a spindle big enough for the stock and a closer for the collet. 

The spindle bore is not really dependent on the size of the lathe. It's just coincidence that as lathes get bigger the headstock gets bigger and the HP gets bigger so it can handle bigger loads so the chuck gets bigger and the spindle to support the chuck gets bigger. I've seen some big lathes with relatively small ( MT4 or MT5) spindles. 

You could pay $14,000 for a huge lathe ( http://www.grizzly.com/products/20-x-60-3-Phase-Big-Bore-Metal-Lathe/G0600 ) or even $27,000 (http://www.grainger.com/product/JET-Large-Spindle-Bore-Lathe-42W808 ) or... you can pay a few thousand to retrofit an existing lathe to use a larger spindle. The cost of large bearings goes up pretty quick. The retrofitted lathe will not have the same cutting capacity. It might be tens of thousands of dollars cheaper. 

Are you making a production level assembly line?

Daniel


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## tylernt (Feb 8, 2014)

I'm with gadget_lover. Really, the perfect Mag-lite lathe doesn't exist. A small benchtop lathe with a 2.5" spindle bore would have to be fabricated, or at least a custom headstock fitted to the existing ways and carriage of a standard lathe. The only problem then is, large bearings don't like high RPM (they're $$$), so now you need a second lathe for small diameter parts.

It's easier and cheaper to just use a smaller lathe and machine one part at a time. Actually, you won't even use more metal that way. Parting 2.25" stock is going to need a wide parting blade to support that much stickout, so a lot of material becomes chips during parting. It's going to to faster to bandsaw (bandsaws have a very narrow kerf) chunks and then machine each chunk individually after taking a light facing cut to true up the end. It can be somewhat less convenient to deal with chucking on the same OD that you want to machine on, but you can use various techniques to get around it (such as boring first and then chucking on the ID to turn the OD). If you're doing production, you can just make a fixture to save time dialing it in after rechucking.


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## HarryN (Feb 8, 2014)

Hi, Thanks for the replies. I don't really have room for multiple machines, so whatever I buy (lathe / mill / whatever ) has to be highly universal and capable, or it is not worth buying at all. The lathe has to be able to deal with parting large stock all by itself, no matter how much stock gets turned into chips.

I am not into production, but I also realize my own limitations, which is why I am looking for something that can deal with whatever I am trying to build with a minimal number of setups and minimal manual intervention during the cutting.

The cutting speed aspect is a good point though, that can be a big factor in the results.

You are all correct though, I am still learning about what features, sequences, and methods are "easy" to do, and which ones are going to be a pain.


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## tylernt (Feb 8, 2014)

HarryN said:


> Hi, Thanks for the replies. I don't really have room for multiple machines, so whatever I buy (lathe / mill / whatever ) has to be highly universal and capable, or it is not worth buying at all.



If I only had one, I'd probably pick the lathe with a milling attachment for flashlight-related machining. Round parts can be done on a mill with a rotary table, the lathe can do something the mill can't -- single point threading. (Well, a CNC mill can do threadmilling, but CNC is a whole 'nuther ball of wax.)



> The lathe has to be able to deal with parting large stock all by itself, no matter how much stock gets turned into chips.



Mini-lathes can part 2.5" stock. You will have to get a bit inventive with the compound to get the tool tip backed away far enough to start, but it can be done.


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## precisionworks (Feb 9, 2014)

HarryN said:


> ... Assuming a person wanted to:
> 
> - Hold a long round bar of stock
> - Diameter - large enough for a typical D size flashlight head
> ...



You're exactly on the right track Harry, a 16" machine gives a good balance between large spindle bore & modest footprint. For what you want to do the Haas TL-2 is just about perfect. 16" swing, 48" between centers, 3" spindle bore. Here's a quick quote for the machine with options I'd want:





Their website allows custom building any model they offer: http://www.haascnc.com/lathe_mt.asp?webID=TOOLROOM_LATHE


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## pupuplader (Feb 12, 2014)

Just got a mini lathe too. Need some more tooling and stock before I'm up and running. 

How is the quality of tools from cdcotools.com
Starrett dial indicator is about 10x the cost of the ones they offer.


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## will (Feb 12, 2014)

pupuplader said:


> Starrett dial indicator is about 10x the cost of the ones they offer.



I do lathe work as a hobby. I have mostly inexpensive measuring tools. Starrett makes quality tools, no doubt about that. If I was still working in that industry and using tools on a daily basis, subjecting them to all kinds of oil, chips etc.. I would go for the Starrett. As a hobbiest, the tools I use are accurate to .001, maybe even better than that. A lot of measuring depends on the person doing it, how much pressure is used, how clean are the surfaces. I bought an ENCO dial vernier about 10 years ago. The label they use for the scale started to peel off. It did not affect the measurement, but I replaced it anyhow. For the person starting out, Starrett may be overkill.

Precisonworks might disagree as he works in the industry.


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## precisionworks (Feb 12, 2014)

will said:


> ... Precisonworks might disagree as he works in the industry.


It's a matter of what you want versus what you can afford. Most everything I have for precision measuring is Starrett or Mitutoyo bought used on eBay, often at prices not much more than that of Asian imports. 

One of the tangible differences in Starrett, Mitu, etc. is that they're repairable so they'll last for decades. If you aren't in a hurry it pays to shop eBay for really nice stuff at bargain basement prices. The funniest purchase from eBay was listed as a "lathe, incomplete" but was in fact a 5C collet spin index made by Suburban Tool. They sell that tool for over $500 & I paid $20 + shipping. 

There's an endless supply of top shelf tooling on eBay if you take the time to find it.


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## precisionworks (Feb 12, 2014)

double post


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## tylernt (Feb 12, 2014)

Funny, just tonight I was testing the accuracy of my $10 Chinese dial indicator.






This is on my surface plate. The indicator was zeroed on the surface and then a 1" standard was placed between the plate and the plunger. It's measuring about 1.0036" when it should be measuring 1.0000". In other words, it's off by a metric mile.

Admittedly, the surface plate and the standard are both Chinese too. But my other Chinese measuring tools (digital caliper, dial caliper, micrometer) agree the standard is 1" +/- .0005". So the dial indicator is still waaaay off.

Does that make it useless? Well, it's useless for absolute measurements. But, it's still just fine for relative measurements such as runout (dial test indicators aren't very good at absolute measurements either due to cosine error, but that doesn't bother anyone).

All machining has a tolerance. Nobody machines metal parts to .0000001". So if your part needs to be +/- .002", and for many hobbyist projects that's a reasonable tolerance, then it's not a big deal. But when you get into the realm of .0005" then it rapidly becomes a really big deal (assuming your Chinese machine tool can even achieve such accuracy, completely aside from your ability to measure it). This is where you really need to invest in quality tools. Case in point, I've been using a $12 digital caliper for a couple of years now. It now reads .0005" to .001" undersize over 1" (the gib is snug). A new $12 digital caliper fresh out of the box is spot on though. At $12, I can afford a new caliper every year whereas the Starret or Mit needs to last me more than a decade (and better hope I don't drop it on the floor). Especially considering you'll be reaching for a mic anyway when you have a tight tolerance part -- even a Starret or Mit caliper is not what you grab when accuracy really matters.

Anyway. As a hobbyist, I'm happy to hit .001" and tickled pink if I get .0005". So cheap tools work for me. Your mileage, as ever, may vary.


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## precisionworks (Feb 13, 2014)

pupuplader said:


> ... How is the quality of tools from cdcotools.com ...



FWIW (which may be very little) I've observed some similarities in low cost tools/tooling/measuring equipment. The COO doesn't seem to matter much as the least costly tools from China, India, Pakistan, etc. share these same attributes:

Quality is hit & miss. A dial indicator may last a decade ... or may fail in minutes. Way back when (before eBay) I was buying sale stuff from Enco & they had a Fred V. Fowler dial test indicator for 50% off. Seems like it was $40, about 1/3 of new Starrett or Mitu but still more costly than most other imports. I proudly mounted the shiny new indicator to a mag base & started dialing in a part using the 4-jaw chuck. All went well until the needle fell off the shaft. Back it went to Enco for exchange. Mounted the second Fowler indicator on a mag base & started dialing in a part when the needle froze even though the tip continued to move. Back it went for a refund but I still had to pay to ship the defective indicators.

Some things come in kit form meaning that they require an investment in time before they're ready to use. The 3-jaw almost Set-Tru chuck on the rotary indexer is one example. Most every edge on both the jaws & the body were sharp enough to draw blood, inside of the chuck contained a mystery abrasive mixed with heavy grease, etc. The chuck was ready for use after four hours work. In fairness my $1200 Bison Set-Tru had its share of issues & took an untold amount of time to rectify. 

Support after the sale is non existent - as tylernt says "At $12, I can afford a new caliper every year ..." Again this isn't limited to tools from China, India, Pakistan, etc. There was zero factory support for my high dollar Bison chuck because I failed to make a warranty claim within the first 365 days. The "customer service manager" (that's an oxymoron) said simply 'sorry about that'. She probably meant to say "you're screwed, blued & tattooed" which is more appropriate for machine tools, this from The Urban Dictionary:



> screwed, blued and tattooed
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## will (Feb 13, 2014)

precisionworks said:


> It's a matter of what you want versus what you can afford. Most everything I have for precision measuring is Starrett or Mitutoyo bought used on eBay, often at prices not much more than that of Asian imports.



I agree with that. For someone just starting out and they have never done any machining before. I suggest getting decent tools, not necessarily the top of the line. Make sure this is something you want to do. 

I have a dial indicator on a magnetic base. I have never used it for measuring, just to check out run out or a taper. I have checked my verniers against known diameters, they tend to be within .001 - which is fine for the work that I do.


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## pupuplader (Feb 13, 2014)

Yeah I went with a Bestest 599-7031-5 

Really didnt want the hassle of messing with it if there were problems. Thanks for the responses.


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## precisionworks (Feb 14, 2014)

Good call, I bought that exact same model on sale at Enco about 10 years ago ... after the bad experiences with two Fowler indicators. Tough indicator, mine has seen its share of impacts & still works like a new one. It will serve you well.


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## Jumpmaster (Feb 17, 2014)

Ok, I am now pretty much finished taking it apart, cleaning the red goo off, and reassembling.

Now I need to focus on what to do next. I would like to start with making some nice beads. I bought a set of 1" square pen blanks of various different woods. My plan was to cut off about 1/4" thick 1" x 1" squares, epoxy them together, take the sharp corners off with my sander, then mount it on an adjustable mandrel to turn it on my lathe.

Couple of problems...the headstock on my lathe is MT3, but I've only been able to find mandrels in MT1 and MT2...so I guess I'll need an adapter.

Second, I'm trying to cut these 1" squares with a scroll saw, but it's EXTREMELY SLOW...doesn't seem to cut very well, even with new blades (latest attempt was with a 9TPI reverse tooth...I think it was 9TPI anyway...). Also tried with my cutoff wheel with my foredom...more out of curiosity than anything else...it cut ok, but tends to burn.

This was a piece of Spanish cedar, BTW...so not really a hardwood...

Before anyone asks, I do realize it would make more sense to make the beads on a wood lathe (which I do not have  ), but I figure I can do it on this lathe and learn along the way...I'm told I can cut them with regular metalworking tooling...


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## gadget_lover (Feb 17, 2014)

I use a small bandsaw to cut wood blanks. My little scroll saw is best for thinner woods.

MT3 adapters are easy to find. https://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1195&category=10

Don't forget to clean the lathe VERY well after turning wood. The sawdust can promote rust. 

Daniel


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## tylernt (Feb 17, 2014)

Some of the pen turning mandrels I've seen will let you remove the shaft from the Morse taper. Maybe you could grip the shaft in a chuck, dispense with the taper altogether.


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## will (Feb 17, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> Second, I'm trying to cut these 1" squares with a scroll saw, but it's EXTREMELY SLOW...doesn't seem to cut very well, even with new blades (latest attempt was with a 9TPI reverse tooth...I think it was 9TPI anyway...). Also tried with my cutoff wheel with my foredom...more out of curiosity than anything else...it cut ok, but tends to burn.
> 
> This was a piece of Spanish cedar, BTW...so not really a hardwood...



The scroll saw should cut through cedar like a piece of butter. Does the scroll saw have adjustable speed? If you are cutting off 1/4 inch chunks to glue different woods, make sure the glue sides are perfectly flat. You won't get flat using a scroll saw. Additionally, you will most likely be gluing end grain to end grain. That is the weakest way to glue. Make sure you use a good epoxy adhesive. Super glue might be a better choice.


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## Jumpmaster (Feb 18, 2014)

Yep...I thought the scroll saw should cut through it fine too...unfortunately, it's not adjustable speed...

I have a disc/belt sander combo to make sure the sides are true/square, so that should work ok...at least the sander works the way it should.  For glue, I got the 2-part gorilla glue as it has worked well on other projects in the past. I have some superglue, so can try that too...

I will make sure to clean off all the sawdust after turning any wood on it also...

I was thinking I should be able to remove the center part of the mandrel from the taper, but it was hard to tell by looking at them whether they can be taken apart like that...

Thanks for the help everyone...


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## tylernt (Feb 18, 2014)

Jumpmaster said:


> it was hard to tell by looking at them whether they can be taken apart like that...


It may just be threaded. Use a piece of leather or similar padding (to avoid marking the shaft) to grip the shaft with pliers or Vise-grips to see if it unscrews.


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## gadget_lover (Feb 18, 2014)

A quick and dirty mandrel for can be made from a length of "allthread", a washer and a couple of nuts. If you need a little stiffer use "drill rod" and thread the last 1/2 inch. I used one for turning pens on my 7x10 lathe.

The only extra prep that the home made mandrel needs is to center drill the end so that your tailstock center can support it. To keep everything concentric, don't remove the mandrel from the chuck until you are finished with all turning activities. 


Daniel


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## will (Feb 19, 2014)

gadget_lover said:


> If you need a little stiffer use "drill rod" and thread the last 1/2 inch. I used one for turning pens on my 7x10 lathe.
> 
> 
> Daniel



I might be wrong, but, isn't drill rod fairly hard? Might be beyond the ability of a 7x10 mini...


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## tylernt (Feb 19, 2014)

will said:


> isn't drill rod fairly hard? Might be beyond the ability of a 7x10 mini...


In it's annealed state, O-1 isn't terribly hard. I've had no problems turning it on my 7x10 mini-lathe -- not as pleasant as 1018, certainly, but not bad.


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## gadget_lover (Feb 19, 2014)

Like Tyler said, you can get drill rod that hardens in oil, air and water. In this case no hardening is needed. I guess I should have said "plain rod" since I was thinking "un threaded rod. The idea is that the allthread has a smaller effective diameter because of the threads. 

Mine happened to be drill rod (O1) because that was in my supplies pile.

Daniel


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## Jumpmaster (Feb 19, 2014)

I am learning a great deal from everyone here. Thank you again!


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