# ArcMania Super MJ LED 3mm upgrade for Maglight Solitaire Flashlight: any review?



## MG_Saldivar (Aug 12, 2006)

I just received an Arcmania LED module for the Maglite Solitaire from Lighthound. In comparison with the E1, it holds its own. For $5 for the Solitaire at Target, plus $10 for the LED module, it's a great little light.

The first photo makes the E1 look much more floody than the upgraded Solitaire; in reality, the Solitaire is nearly as floody but its hotspot is brighter.



Fenix E1 (left) vs. Maglite Solitaire (1xAAA) upgraded with Arcmania LED from Lighthound










Chinese Aluminum single LED flashlight from Lighthound vs. Upgraded Solitaire (right)


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## KDOG3 (Aug 12, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

hey that looks pretty neat. I may have to try one of those...

I also thought about getting one of these..

http://www.led-replacement.com/lt-3.html


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## nerdgineer (Aug 12, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

How well does the Solitaire hold it's output over time? The really stunning thing about the E1 is its' true flat regulation off 1 alkie AAA for an hour and a half.

Lots of small lights do well on fresh batteries but then drop off fast with that typical (and annoying) alkaline runtime curve.


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## MG_Saldivar (Aug 12, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

You're absolutely right, Nerdgineer. I'll post in the future when I determine runtime but I'm hoping that the Solitaire will behave somewhat like my LED upgraded 2xAA Mags -- at least double runtime, with 50% brightness about halfway through.


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## jnj1033 (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

Could you also post a picture of the Solitaire with the unit in it? I'm curious how far down you can screw the head.

In your picture it looks almost as bright as the E1, but that could be partially due to the nature of the two different beams (floody E1 vs. tight MJ). How much brighter is it than a stock Soli?




By the way, it looks like it's brighter than the LT-3 on ledreplacement.com. I've got one of those, and it's about as bright as the 1st gen Dorcy 1xAAA, but has shades of blue and yellow in the beam. The LT-3 also dims noticably over the life of an alkaline battery. I've gotten steadier output with a NiMH.


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## MG_Saldivar (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

(I apologize for the blurry resolution -- apparently my digital camera can't handle extreme close-ups...)


This is the Solitaire assembled with the LED module. Note the gap that remains between the head and the body. This is because the LED is too large to allow the reflector to descend ("screw in") as far as is possible with the standard Solitaire bulb; the light is still turned on/off by screwing the head, and the reflector allows the LED beam to be adjusted (somewhat) from bright spot to 'doughnut.' 

I could probably rip out the reflector -- note below that the LED module has a reflective base - but I kind of want to play around with adjusting the beam, since none of my other LED lights allow for this.











Close-up of the LED module. I guess I could still use the Solitaire in 'candle' mode if I wished because of this design.








Another view of the LED


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## MG_Saldivar (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*



jnj1033 said:


> How much brighter is it than a stock Soli?




JNJ, I intelligently neglected to take a photo of the original Solitaire bulb's beam before switching out the bulb for the LED, and now I can't find the original bulb. 

However, I would say the Soli with LED is at least as much of an improvement as the difference between my Mag 2xAA's original bulb and its Nite-Ize LED upgrade.


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## _mike_ (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

Very nice of you to post your findings, pictures and opinions, very useful. Even though the Solitaire's head doesn't screw down as far with the led conversion as the stock bulb, is it secure? 

Also, I think there is a spare bulb in the tail cap if you can't find the original.


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## MG_Saldivar (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

Mike,

You're right about the spare bulb - I'd completely forgotten. I'll try to take a photo of the original bulb beam in a day or so.

Yes, the head is secure despite the gap. If you imagine the head is a cylinder, the inner surface only has threads on the 1/2 nearest the reflector. In other words, most of the threads are engaged -- as you can see from my photo, the gap is smooth metal, free of threads, so the head wouldn't really be that much more 'screwed in' with the original bulb.

Or, to put it another way, i estimate the head is only 1.5 to 2.5 turns away from being flush with the body of the Solitaire.


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## _mike_ (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*

Again, very good information to have. I ordered one of these led conversions (from Lambda) should ship next week, though I'm in no hurry. My two most used lights are an Arc AAA version 3.3 and CMG Ultra Infinity. This upgrade for the solitaire looks to be of good value (in my opinion). Nice and simple, will give better run time than stock and not very expensive. I mean, a little light that takes a AAA battery for about $20.00 isn't bad. Nice for non-flashaholics and not a horrible financial loss if lost, destroyed or not used. 

Thanks again,


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## MG_Saldivar (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire w/LED upgrade vs. Fenix E1*



_mike_ said:


> This upgrade for the solitaire looks to be of good value (in my opinion). Nice and simple, will give better run time than stock and not very expensive.



I agree on all counts. I now own several Fenixes and a few (surprisingly robust) Chinese-made LED pocket lights from Lighthound, and all the Fenixes and some of the Chinese lights are brighter than the upgraded Solitaire, but I'm excited by the relatively low price and, in my experience, the toughness of the Maglite. 

I think my new EDC will probably end up as follows: a very bright 'pocket rocket' light (probably Fenix P1 or Nuwai Q3), a less bright but longer runtime light running on AAA, like a Fenix E1 or L0, and the upgraded Solitaire as a backup/AAA battery carrier.


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## mykall (Aug 13, 2006)

*Re: UPDATED (more pix) MagSolitaire w/LED upgrade v. FenixE1*

Thanks for the post/pics MG. The E1 uses a Nicha led as opposed to most Fenixs which use a lux. Does anyone know what type of led is used in this soli dropin? I'm assuming that this is exactly the same drop in that Lambda has.

Thanks

MB


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## MG_Saldivar (Aug 15, 2006)

*Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

After all the recent discussion of Solitaires, I thought I'd buy a new Solitaire, leave the stock bulb untouched, and compare it with my other Solitaire, upgraded with an Arcmania LED.

(More info in this thread)


The stock Soli is at left, the modded one at right. I tried to adjust both to 'spot' mode. It's not clear from this photo, but the stock Soli has almost no flood when adjusted to spot, while the modded Soli has a very good amount of flood.


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## Haz (Aug 15, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

Is the Arcmania LED adjusted to 'spot' in the picture?, just wondering because there appears to be a big donut hole in the middle


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## MG_Saldivar (Aug 15, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*



Haz said:


> there appears to be a big donut hole in the middle



You're right, Haz. I just played with the modded Soli and I can make the doughnut hole shrink but it just barely disappears. However, I note with interest that the modded Soli's amount of flood seems unchanged, regardless of how big or small the spot/doughnut is -- not sure why.

(I should note gain the the Arcmania dropin has a reflective base surrounding the LED; I assume this means the Soli reflector is supposed to be removed, but I didn't do so in order to play with the focus feature for a while.)


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## Bertrik (Aug 16, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

I don't think the reflector needs to be removed, after all the module is supposed to be a drop-in, not a mod.

The spot of my modified solitaire (bulb from Lighthound) is much tighter than in your picture. When turning it on, it starts with a spot then turning farther makes it more of a flood.


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## theamazingrando (Aug 16, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

I found the beam from thta tiny solitaire reflector quite surprising with the new drop-in. It has decent throw (considering) and a very nice spill--and it actually is somewhat adjustable. 

The best surprise to me was the tint. Compared to white 5mm leds I have on hand it is noticeably warm tinted. Sure, it's still a bit blue in the center, but much warmer--a very pleasant light.


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## Phaserburn (Aug 16, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

I like mine. You get good output/spill, better than bare 5mm led throw, adjustable focus, and Maglite build quality vs Dorcy etc. Seeing good amounts of non-fading white light emanating from a Mag Solitaire is kinda of a fun goof, too. And this from a 3mm emitter, NOT a 5mm!

ArcMania had a choice; go with a bare emitter for a Dorcy AAAish output, or retain the character and design of the Mag and use the reflector as it was meant to be. The drop in does a GREAT job of producing light. Remove the head of the Soli, and you'll see that the led is emitting light in almost a true 360 degree fashion, as an incan bulb would to take advantage of a real, albeit tiny, reflector. So, you get the foibles of Mag's smooth reflectors, but with a superior light engine with superior output, nice runtime and color. Headless, it makes a great led candle; one of the best.

With this drop-in, the Mag Solitaire is now a contender for keychain duty once again. I won't ditch my Lux modded Arc, mind you, but the Mag is a nice light.

Comparison with the E1 may or may not be favorable; I don't know as I don't have one. But I didn't get this drop in for shootout purposes in the single AAA class; I got it to breathe life into a good looking shell that really never had life before. I feel some of the criticism of this unit is undeserved, as it's the character of the Mag itself that is mostly questioned. This will be the same criticism of the larger 3W Magleds, too. Either you like the style and design, or you don't. I know they are not optimized by today's cutting edge CPF standards, but I still have a place in my collection for updated, modern Maglites.

My only disappointment is that the head doesn't screw all the way down as advertised. I don't remember who posted it, but I thought it would. It's 2mm away from the body and doesn't effect any functionality, but it's not what I expected. Still, amazing work, ArcMania.


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## Illum (Aug 16, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

no contest for the soltaire..


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## voodoogreg (Sep 10, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*



Bertrik said:


> I don't think the reflector needs to be removed, after all the module is supposed to be a drop-in, not a mod.
> 
> The spot of my modified solitaire (bulb from Lighthound) is much tighter than in your picture. When turning it on, it starts with a spot then turning farther makes it more of a flood.



Modified soli (meaning you modded it) or just stock soli with lighthound module? It's been quoted that the lighthound _is_ the lamda drop in. VDG


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## Jay R (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

I have two Solitaires with different reflectors inside. One is cone shaped and one is cone shaped with strengthening 'fins' on it. The one with fins focuses much better than the other.


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## Bertrik (Sep 11, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

VDG, sorry I meant upgraded (stock soli + drop-in).


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## Bertrik (Sep 13, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

My soli drop-in just stopped working 

I was just playing around with it a little bit for about a minute when it started flashing and finally went out. This was with a freshly charged NiMH battery.
Different battery didn't help either. Now the drop-in just gets a little hot when I turn the solitaire on.


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## KevinL (Sep 25, 2006)

*Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Read the review here: http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=140

No kidding...

Really no kidding....

I stack it up against an Arc AAA PREMIUM and it can still hold its own!!


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## hank (Sep 25, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

I have several I bought from the Sandwich Shoppe two weeks ago-- not sure if these are all the same model or not, can anyone comment on where they're actually made? China I assume.

No question the ones I bought make the Solitaires usable again. The hardware store is very puzzled why I'm buying Solitaire parts off their dusty back shelf.

I'm already wishing I could get them with a choice of LED colors, 
and for a runtime graph,
and for a long life run from someone to see how brightness holds up over time


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## phatalbert (Sep 25, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Pretty Impressive!

I too would love to see a runtime graph.


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## lrp (Sep 25, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Wow, that results are very impressive! Makes me wish I still had my Solataire.


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## Lee1959 (Sep 25, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

An MJLED works in the Solitare? Hmmmmm, maybe I will have ot try it, I still have 3 or 4 old Solitares around somewhere.


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## Alin10123 (Sep 25, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Wow! That's kind of nice.


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## belyo (Sep 25, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

This chart is engineer samples from ARC mania.


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## hank (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Can't see the chart -- can you provide a text URL as a link to it?

My oldest Solitaire's reflector seems a bit high, I cant quite get the spot to eliminate the dark center hole before the light goes out -- though it does give a decent focused image of the LED emitter at the middle of the bright spot. Guess I'll file a bit off the back of the reflector where it sits on the metal disk.

Still puzzling whether the various people selling these all have the same product, as it appears, or if there's any actual difference between them. Maybe everyone contracted for something a little different from the manufacturer, which I am guessing must be China -- or else it's just labels different? Wanta Know ...


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## belyo (Sep 26, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Edited, it's OK?


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## KevinL (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

2:40 from a single alkaline. I am very, very impressed. belyo, thank you for the graph!

I obtained mine from Lighthound.com, and if he says these came from Arcmania, that's good enough for me. Arcmania is a very well known and trusted name here on CPF 

This is a particularly small MJLED, not the normal 2AA Maglite stuff. There was a lot of talk about adapting it for the Solitaire but nothing has the finish and polish of this solution. It was a pleasure to review, simply change bulbs and life goes on, bright n beautiful. 

Recently I've taken an interest in such mods for non-flashaholics. We have an uphill task getting people to purchase $200 lights, and even as a seasoned flashaholic, I am balking at the price some of these lights command. On the other hand, for $13, you can shovel these things down people's throat for less than the cost of a high performance incan bulb. Heck, for certain good folks, I would simply buy it and GIVE it to them. 

I just received a MagLED and even as a veteran, I am very impressed. Especially considering it's under $30. Two years ago one would be buying a Surefire KL1 and E1e to get this kind of performance (they didn't even sell them TOGETHER!!)

I've climbed every mountain I have to climb in the lighting world, including construction of my own 35W HID from scratch based on automotive HID bulbs and ignitors. I have a >1K lumen incan mod that took on the name I gave it. Now I look towards real VALUE, rather than exotica or outrageous lumen output. Interestingly, my famous incan mod is also good value for money. I would be hard pressed to get >500 lumens out of anything else at that price/performance ratio (calculated for the lithium-ion version). Even the charger can be had for less than $15, so the total-cost-of-ownership (TCO) is very low. And not that long ago I was dealing in cheap keychain lights. Judging by their popularity I imagine they represented some fairly good value..

As for value for money, expect to see more of such reviews on my site in the near future....


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## clipse (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

I like my little Solitair upgrade. In fact I didn't even have a solitair until I got the upgrade. 

clipse


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## Gothmog (Sep 27, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Damn! This place makes me:hairpull:......and againto Lighthound


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## voodoogreg (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*



Bertrik said:


> VDG, sorry I meant upgraded (stock soli + drop-in).



Cool, understand now. VDG


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## LEDninja (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

I bought my 1st one fromLigthound. It got squashed in an GPM envelope despite 2 layers of bubblepack.
Got the second from The Shoppe and their rugged corrugated cardboard box protected it better.

I also replaced the tailcap with a Garrity 2AAA SS penlight clicky. Some polishing of the back of the solitaire with sandpaper is needed to make good electrical contact. Now I do not have to refocus every time I turn on the light.

* EDIT
voodoogreg asked me which penlight I got the tailcap clicky from. It is a stainless steel 2AAA incan. It has disappeared from Garrity's website so is probably discontinued. I found it still listed here,
http://www.builderdepot.com/seo/GARRITY_10/228360_PENLIGHT_W_T-1_BULB_POCKT.ihtml
*


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## gorn (Sep 28, 2006)

*Re: Mag Solitaire: stock bulb vs Arcmania LED dropin*

I just got a couple of the dropins from Lighthound. One for me and the other for a buddy. We were amazed at how bright they are. They took the soli from being kind of a joke to a light that is usable. Both of them can be adjusted so that there is no donut in the beam at all.


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## KevinL (Oct 2, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Ouch, sorry to hear yours got crushed. Did you tell him about it? I would mention it. 

Gothmog: Congratulations..


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## Gothmog (Oct 10, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Got mine today. And you're right! THIS THING :rock:!!!
Spill is really useful now (There almost was none).
Colours are now easy recognisable.
Got my Soli '89 or '90,played around a littlebit and then after 1 or 2 Batteries
she took a nice"cinderella Sleep"forgotten in the basement until i found this Thread.Now ol'Lady is back in Buissness,and looking like new!!! 
My 3rd EDC now.Can just recommend it!
If you guys could hear my beloved L1P crying in the Background...

Oh,yeah...Thanks for this nice Review!!! Love your Site,keep it up!


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## NewBie (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*



KevinL said:


> Read the review here: http://lights.lightrefineries.org/?page_id=140
> 
> No kidding...
> 
> ...




Do you think you could do some bracketed beamshots so one can judge the comparision shots to the ARC AAA?

As it is, the shot is over saturated, and you can't get a reference for the hotspot intensity, and it is difficult to judge the flood area on the other end.


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## KevinL (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Thanks Gothmog 

NewBie: Will do, I'll do the -1 and -2 stop underexposed thing.


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## KevinL (Oct 11, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Hmm...

I will post them as links since they are not supported as embedded images. 

Normal

-1 stop

-2 stops


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## NewBie (Oct 12, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*



KevinL said:


> Hmm...
> 
> I will post them as links since they are not supported as embedded images.
> 
> ...




This shot of yours really helps a lot, thank you!

-2 stops


Any chance you could overexpose by two stops so we could look at the flood area? 

It looks that on your website, the ARC AAA is making a lot more light in the flood area (but I am not certain). From these shots, it is obvious that the ARC AAA has a hot spot that is about 6 times larger in area (not diameter but area).

Do you white balance your camera before the shots? The reason I ask, is that I am wondering if this apparently new MJLED is pure perfect white as shown in your photos, unlike the other MJLED series products that have a slight blue tint.

Thanks again for your efforts, and doing the grunt work. I have some of these products in bound myself, to take a look at.


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## KevinL (Oct 12, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Thanks, I'm aware that the tints are not 100% accurate. I am lazy, I leave it to AWB, and that's not always good for shooting lights. I'll see if I can lock it on daylight 5600K next time round. I don't think the tints are as perfect as they seem to be, and from what I know about the cameras, they AWB for one light and do not for the other, thereby exaggerating the tint. 

+2 stops, 5600K color-temp WB

Personally, I feel that both of them are a little blue as are most 5mm products in this class like the Fenix E0/E1. Definitely not the white from the Luxeon we're used to 

Is daylight 5200K or 5600K? I think it's 5600 but I can't quite recall.


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## NewBie (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

Thats outstanding, thanks!

Usually daylight is considered 5600 K, but if you look into it a bit, you find it varies a lot throughout the day.


This was a measurement I performed in March, at 10:30 AM:








Indirect sunlight on a clear day is usually over 10,000K.


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## KevinL (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

You're welcome.. thanks for sharing your graph too 

I think I'll use 5600K as daylight, I find that my camera adds a hint too much blue when it's set to 5200K (which it shipped with by default).


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Oct 13, 2006)

*Re: Wow, this Solitaire really kicks a.... (with the help of a MJLED)*

I kinda wish I didn't let the magic smoke out of mine with two Lith AAs.....


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## AuroraLite (Oct 19, 2006)

*Using 3mm SMJ BP Drop-in for Solitaire, Miniminimag and Minimag1AAA*

Hi, all.

Just a quick post about this cool bi-pin dropin made by ArcMania. It is probably a very well known mod part for Solitaire, but I also discovered that it works just as well in miniminimag or the minimag 1AAA.

SMJSoliBipin01.jpg



SMJSoliBipin02.jpg



SMJSoliBipin03.jpg



A very brief intro, this 3mm SMJ bi-pin dropin is rather easy to use in modding the solitaire. The best part is one doesn't even have to drill out the reflector of the solitaire(which could be a pain in the butt and needs practice to get it erfect)


SMJSoliBipin04.jpg



Candlemode for the BP dropin with Soli.


SMJSoliBipin05.jpg



Another picture of the soli in action.


SMJSoliBipin06.jpg



The only sad part about the easy drop-in is it will not allow the bezel of the soli to screw in all the way, which leave a little gap in between. I guess it is just not possible to have the cake and eat it too...


SMJSoliBipin07.jpg



A short distance beamshot of the modded soli.


SMJbpbeamshot2.jpg



ARCPbeamshot2.jpg



top pix: SMJ BP dropin + Soli 
bottom pix: ARC-P
From the pictures, it looks the soli with the BP drop-in is outputting similar amount of light to ARC-P, but the hotspot of the 3mm SMJ is probably brighter.


SMJSoliBipin08.jpg



I think the best kept secret about this little wonder is the fact that it works really well with the Minimag 1AAA or miniminimag. So far, AFAIK, there is no known product that is designed for this configuration.


SMJBPsoli1AAA.jpg



SMJBPmini1AAA.jpg



SMJBPmini1AA.jpg



SMJmini2AA.jpg



Here is a set of pix that compares 3mm SMJ BP drop-in to 5mm SMJ in minimag 2AA...
Top pix: Solitaire + 3mm SMJ BP drop-in
Second pix from top: Minimag 1AAA + 3mm SMJ BP drop-in
Third pix from top: Miniminimag 1AA + 3mm SMJ BP drop-in
Bottom pix: 5MM SMJ + Minimag 2AA


Measuring the hotspot lux reading 1m from the flashlight:
5mm SMJ + Minimag 2AA 414 lux
3mm SMJ bi-pin drop-in + minimag 1AA 554 lux
3mm SMJ bi-pin drop-in + minimag 1AAA 142 lux
3mm SMJ bi-pin drop-in in soli 99 lux
ARC-P 67 lux

The 3mm SMJ bi-pin dropin with Minimag 1AA actually outshines the 5mm SMJ in 2AA minimag. I think the main reason is because it has a smaller emitting pad which allows a more intense hotspot to form. It may not be perfectly regulated like some aftermarket product, but enough to make one appreciate its value. Much to thank is ArcMania to make this avialible to us.


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## NotRegulated (Oct 29, 2006)

*ArcMania Solitaire LED upgrade rocks*

I've had a Mag Solitaire around the house for at least ten years. It has pretty much not been used because the light output was pathetic. I just recently found it laying around and remembered a few threads about a drop in for it. I researched CPF and read the review on Flashlightreviews.com and decided to order an ArcMania LED drop in to try it out. I was ordering other stuff from Lighthound anyway and thought that for $13 I would take a gamble. Well let me tell you, I am very pleasantly surprised. It works real well. It is about as bright as my older original AAA Arc (not the ARC AAA-P). The beam is adjustable too. If you have a stock Solitaire lying around getting no use I would highly recommend this dropin for the price.


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## nelstomlinson (Oct 29, 2006)

*Re: ArcMania Solitaire LED upgrade rocks*

I had Tektite's LT-3 drop-in for the Solitaire, and I thoght it was overpriced and under-powered. I just got Arcmania's drop-in, and it's cheaper and brighter. This time, I think I got my money's worth. I'm back to carrying my Solitaire on my key chain.

This is actually cheap enough that it makes sense to buy a solitaire and one of these drop-ins from Lighthound: the two together give a reasonable little light for under $20. 

Nels


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## whippoorwill (Oct 29, 2006)

*Re: ArcMania Solitaire LED upgrade rocks*

I agree. Resurrected a couple of Solitaires using these. Almost as much light as the Arc AAA-P but costs a whole lot less, plus you can focus the beam. Neat idea and it works.:rock:


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## Mike L. (Oct 29, 2006)

*Re: ArcMania Solitaire LED upgrade rocks*

I've got two Solitares that date back to the Camel cigarette promotions, if anybody remembers those. Most of the anodizing is gone, but now they work like a keychain light should with these modules installed. Free shipping from our friends at Lighthound, too. I had one module go bad after a few days, and it was replaced quickly by Lighthound without hassle. 

--Mike


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## daberti (Dec 8, 2006)

Thanks in advance


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## LEDninja (Dec 8, 2006)

Np official reviews but some of these threads have pictures and beamshots.

(Thanks for the links!! Moderator removes links due to merged threads...)


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## daberti (Dec 8, 2006)

LEDninja said:


> Np official reviews but some of these threads have pictures and beamshots....zip


 
And wouldn't you have a url to the manifacturer's web page?

Huge thanks


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## Oddjob (Dec 8, 2006)

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2217

http://home.mchsi.com/~lambda_lights/solit.htm

I got my solitaire bulb from Lambda Lights as well as some other mag drop-ins with no issues. Lighthound also has good service.


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## daberti (Dec 8, 2006)

Oddjob said:


> http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2217
> 
> http://home.mchsi.com/~lambda_lights/solit.htm
> 
> I got my solitaire bulb from Lambda Lights as well as some other mag drop-ins with no issues. Lighthound also has good service.


 
And also Sandwich Shoppe has.
And here the mess starts: Sandwich sells the SMJLED2 3mm drop in for solitaire, whilst Lambda and Lighthound the SMJLED (version 1) one.

Oddjob, LEDninja: I'm lost. Is there any difference? If so, where is it? :thanks:


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## LEDninja (Dec 9, 2006)

Both the Sandwich Shoppe amd Lighthound versions look the same to me. Delicate little thing. The lighthound one did not survive the trip so I cannot compare performance between the 2. I only got the module because I have a clicky switch that fits my Solitaire and it's bulb had burned out. It is a rather expensive way to go. $5-$10 for the Solitaire + $12-$15 for the upgrade module + shipping.

I suggest buying a TM-310H which is brighter and cheaper. $9 + shipping.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=99836&highlight=TM-310H
http://store.advancedmart.com/nu5waposiled.html
Or a Fenix E1 which is more solidly built than both the TM-310H and the Solitaire, It is brighter but has a ringy beam. $24 shipped
The E0 is well built, dimmer than the Solitaire module but much brighter than the stock Solitaire bulb. $20 shipped.
http://fenix-store.com/index.php?cPath=22_49&osCsid=0352e46e07ad4e79a81545e3baf10001
Note 4SEVENS do not charge shipping so the $24 o $20 is what you pay. Can not remember if the CPF5 discount code works for these lights.


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## daberti (Dec 9, 2006)

LEDninja said:


> Both the Sandwich Shoppe amd Lighthound versions look the same to me. Delicate little thing. The lighthound one did not survive the trip so I cannot compare performance between the 2. I only got the module because I have a clicky switch that fits my Solitaire and it's bulb had burned out. It is a rather expensive way to go. $5-$10 for the Solitaire + $12-$15 for the upgrade module + shipping.
> 
> I suggest buying a TM-310H which is brighter and cheaper. $9 + shipping.
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=99836&highlight=TM-310H
> ...



The game is between the SMJLED2 at Sandwich (2 at 18 plus shipping), Fenix E1 
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/fenix_e1.htm
and Inova X0 (new version)
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/inova_x1.htm


E1 is a very good performer but 1h 40' to 50% with alkaline cells is simply ridiculous. Then Fenix lights have a bad reputation of being o-ring eaters.
Also L1P and L0D are good options.


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## Oddjob (Dec 9, 2006)

I tend to agree with LEDninja. For the cost of the bulb you might as well look into a Fenix E0 or E1 or other similar lights. I have an E0 on my key chain and it is very useful. Don't get me wrong, I like my Solitaire drop-in. The light is much better than the stock bulb but the head does not screw in all the way.


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## daberti (Dec 9, 2006)

*Re: ArcMania Super MJ LED 3mm upgrade for Solitaire*



Oddjob said:


> I tend to agree with LEDninja. For the cost of the bulb you might as well look into a Fenix E0 or E1 or other similar lights. I have an E0 on my key chain and it is very useful. Don't get me wrong, I like my Solitaire drop-in. The light is much better than the stock bulb but the head does not screw in all the way.


 
Ok. I've just ordered an E1.
Thanks folks


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## daberti (Dec 11, 2006)

@LEDNinja & Oddjob
Does E1 go into moon mode even with NiMh rechargeables?

Thanks


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## NoFair (Dec 11, 2006)

daberti said:


> @LEDNinja & Oddjob
> Does E1 go into moon mode even with NiMh rechargeables?
> 
> Thanks



Mine does. Usable light for quite a while...

It might not be healthy for a NiMH to be totally drained so it would be a good idea to swap batteries when it starts to go really dim.

Sverre


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## Oddjob (Dec 11, 2006)

Unfortunaley I don't have an E1 but I agree with NoFair.


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## daberti (Dec 11, 2006)

Oddjob said:


> Unfortunaley I don't have an E1 but I agree with NoFair.


 
Yes, I do agree too.
My question was asked just because I do HATE regulated lights that go at full steam with recharg. batts till the last second, without telling you that batts are depleted.


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## John Phillips (Feb 11, 2007)

*Re: ArcMania Super MJLED 3-mm upgrade for Mag-Lite Solitaire: any review?*

After recently reading the very favourable reviews in the CandlePower Forum threads about the new Arcmania Super MJLED 3-mm for Mag-Lite® Solitaire®, I was sufficiently convinced it was well worth getting and so purchased one




from Lighthound http://www.lighthound.com
http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2217

Their service and postage rates for international customers were great and it arrived a third of the way around the World in just over a week.

I've always run my Solitaire® on a Ni-MH cell because I dislike non-rechargeable cells. However, this had meant having to accept the dimmer, yellowish light that results from the lower cell voltage.



I'm probably in the minority because even despite this I've still liked the torch and found it to be useful, especially for seeing in tight spaces when servicing electronic equipment.

I have to say this new drop-in LED for it is absolutely brilliant.



I'm thrilled with the improvement it has made, transforming the Solitaire® into an exceedingly more useful and desirable torch with a bright beam that remains white despite lower voltage of a Ni-MH cell.

The torch still retains its ability to focus the beam. Maximum focus is not quite as tight as with the original incandescent bulb, but not too far short of it. That's because the LED's die is slightly less of a point source of light than the tungsten filament. Nevertheless, its Lambertian emitting area is still tiny, a little under a millimetre in diameter, radiating over an angle of 180 degrees so that it utilizes the reflector and works well in candle mode too. Even when fully focused, the spill is bright and very useful.

The only slight disadvantage is that the head does not screw down quite as far when the torch is turned off. However, when the head is twisted to turn the torch on the LED is immediately at the focal point of the reflector (maximum focus), so unlike the incandescent bulb, it does not require a turn or so to maximally focus it. This should save wear and tear on the threads. When defocused to make a broader beam there is a welcome absence of a doughnut (again, unlike the incandescent bulb) until the head has been unscrewed so far that it can be removed.

Compared to a white Luxeon® LED it is bluer with an ever so slight lavender tint, especially in the spill, which I don't mind at all. I estimate its colour temperature is somewhere between 6500-8500 Kelvins.

Using a variable-voltage power supply I have measured its current consumption versus input voltage and calculated input power and effective resistance over the voltage range up to 1.6 V. Unfortunately I can't insert the graphs in this posting, but here is the data:



*Voltage* *Current* *Power* *Effective Resistance* *Comments*
0.08 0.000 0.000 ∞ Stops conducting
0.09 0.006 0.001 15.0
0.10 0.038 0.004 2.6
0.11 0.085 0.009 1.3 LED extinguishes as input voltage is being decreased
0.15 0.099 0.015 1.5
0.20 0.112 0.022 1.8
0.25 0.121 0.030 2.1
0.30 0.127 0.038 2.4
0.35 0.129 0.045 2.7
0.40 0.125 0.050 3.2
0.45 0.127 0.057 3.5
0.50 0.130 0.065 3.8
0.55 0.133 0.073 4.1 LED starts as input voltage is being increased
0.60 0.136 0.082 4.4
0.65 0.139 0.090 4.7
0.70 0.141 0.099 5.0
0.75 0.143 0.107 5.2
0.80 0.147 0.118 5.4
0.85 0.149 0.127 5.7
0.90 0.152 0.137 5.9
0.95 0.154 0.146 6.2
1.00 0.157 0.157 6.4
1.05 0.161 0.169 6.5
1.10 0.164 0.180 6.7
1.15 0.168 0.193 6.8
1.20 0.172 0.206 7.0
1.25 0.176 0.220 7.1
1.30 0.182 0.237 7.1
1.35 0.188 0.254 7.2
1.40 0.192 0.269 7.3
1.45 0.199 0.289 7.3
1.50 0.205 0.308 7.3
1.55 0.211 0.327 7.3
1.60 0.219 0.350 7.3

Increasing from 0 V, the LED doesn't light until about 0.55 V. Up to 1.20 V the lamp exhibits a rising effective resistance from about 4 to 7 Ohms, though not enough to prevent the current from rising. From 1.20 V to 1.40 V the lamp's effective resistance flattens, becoming a constant 7.3 Ohms from 1.40 V to 1.60 V.
Although I have read that the lamp can tolerate an absolute maximum input of about 1.8-1.9 V, I wasn't game to try this. The data can probably be extrapolated to predict the current draw and power consumption at that voltage.

Decreasing the voltage, the LED extinguishes when it gets down to 0.11 V! However, it is understandably very dim at this stage. Oddly, there is a slight hump in the current as the voltage passes from 0.40 V to 0.35 V.

The conclusion is that the switch-mode power supply in this lamp is not fully regulated: neither current nor power are constant. There is therefore a very slight difference in brightness (which is hardly noticeable) between a new non-rechargeable cell and a Ni-MH cell. The relatively flat discharge profile of a Ni-MH cell means that there is very little dimming as this sort of cell discharges, so light output is pretty constant at a current of about 180 mA (input power 235 mW). This compares with the original incandescent bulb (which had maybe 10 hours of use and the envelope was starting to darken on the inside) drawing 200 mA (260 mW) and a new incandescent bulb drawing 220 mA (285 mW). This LED lamp is producing *far* more light with only 82-90% of the power consumption!

With a fully charged 900-mAh (nominal) AAA Ni-MH cell it ran for 4 hours, 10 minutes (the cell is sixteen months old and may have lost come capacity). When it was exhausted the torch went into moonlight mode for about 1 minute then extinguished abruptly. Still, this would give adequate warning to put in a fresh, recharged cell.

Cheers,
John.


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## Per Arne (Feb 13, 2007)

Hi,

Does anybody know if this Drop-in LED could be used in a mini maglite 2xAAA Lithium or would it  ??


PA


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## LEDninja (Feb 13, 2007)

Per Arne said:


> Does anybody know if this Drop-in LED could be used in a mini maglite 2xAAA Lithium or would it  ??
> PA


I would not risk it.

The only drop ins with boost circuit that fit and work with the AAA minimag is:
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/terralux_tle-10.htm
http://lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1526
http://www.led-replacement.com/tle-20.html
There may not be much of a price difference shipped. Lighthound uses the more expensive GPM envelope. NiMH or alkalines. Brighter with fresh alkalines.
Tectite used to make a LT-2 but I can not find a dealer selling it.

The following raw LEDs will work with an AAA minimag if powered with lithiums or FRESH alkalines. You will have to drill out your reflector.
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?cPath=48_52_82&products_id=568
http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=754
Installation instructions here. There is a beamshot photo showing the difference between the MJLED and SMJLED.
http://home.mchsi.com/~lambda_lights/smjled.htm


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## Crenshaw (Dec 14, 2007)

i know this is a really old thread, but i just got the smjled, and need to ask, has anyone tried to do anything about the head not being able to be screwed all the way down? i will be trying to sand the reflector down abit tomorrow..

Crenshaw


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## John Phillips (Dec 17, 2007)

I haven't tried trimming down the base of the reflector but I think it might help at least to make the head screw on a bit further. It should make the torch similar to how it was with the incandescent bulb in at least one aspect: Depending how much material you remove it will probably take a bit more of a twist to optimally focus the beam when it is turned on.

Do let us know how you get on, Crenshaw. It would be interesting to know whether it is practical to remove enough of the reflector's base to completely compensate for the additional thickness of the PCB housing. As I mentioned in my review, the Super MJLED seems to be fairly well focused immediately when the torch is first turned on, though the beam is not quite as tight as that achievable with the incandescent bulb. I have wondered whether removing even just a little from the base of the reflector could achieve a slightly tighter beam.

One thing about modifying the reflector like this is that it wouldn't switch off the torch if one ever went back to an incandescent bulb, but then, who would want to? 

Cheers,
John.


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## gunga (Dec 17, 2007)

I sand the back of my reflector down so that is screws in a few extra mm. It still leaves a gap (1 mm) but allows quite a bit more focusing ability and does not allow the head to fall off quite so easily.

Removing the reflector requires a careful hand and a pretty good angled (and small) knife blade to bend the small tabs back.

I also use a diffusing film (satin finish scotch tape is cheap and works well) to smooth out the SMJ LED beam.

Make sure you bend the tabs back out a bit so the reflector locks in place when re-inserted. The end result is a nice little (somewhat) focusable light.


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## John Phillips (Dec 19, 2007)

I just took some physical measurements of the Solitaire with the original incandescent bulb in it and with the ArcMania Super MJ-LED 3-mm upgrade.


*With original incandescent bulb*

The head screws down to within about 0.6 mm from the body when then torch is turned off.
The head has to be screwed out approximately 1 turn to focus to as near a parallel beam as possible.
*With ArcMania Super MJ-LED 3-mm upgrade*

The head screws down to within about 2.4 mm from the body when the torch is turned off.
The beam is already as near to parallel as possible immediately when the torch is turned on.
To remove enough plastic from the back of the reflector to make the head screw right down as close to the body with the ArcMania Super MJ-LED as it does when the incandescent bulb is fitted would mean starting to chew into the reflector. As Gunga found, 1 mm clearance between the head and the body when the torch is turned off seems to be the practical minimum.

ArcMania has done his homework well setting the distance between the top of the metal housing for the PCB and the LED's die at 3 mm. This puts the die at the reflector's focal point when the unmodified base of the reflector is just touching the top of the PCB's metal housing, so the hot spot of the beam consists of practically parallel rays immediately when the torch is turned on. Screwing the head out further produces a divergent beam and so there is no provision with this set-up for a convergent beam. The latter might be useful for an intense hot spot when very close-up, assuming that the larger emitting area of the LED die compared to the incandescent filament would enable this. At distances greater than a few centimetres a convergent beam is arguably no advantage to a divergent beam because the rays cross over and diverge anyway.


*Conclusion*

Therefore, how much plastic to take off the back of the reflector depends on one's priority:

If it is to make the head fit as close to the body as possible when the torch is turned off, about 1.2 mm off the base of the reflector is probably all that can be removed without mutilating the actual reflector itself. However, this will mean that the head will have to be unscrewed about 1-1.25 turns when turning the torch on in order to maximally focus the beam; approximately the same as for the incandescent bulb. In other words, the head will still have to be screwed out to as far as it is when the torch just turns on with the unmodified reflector. While more of the thread will be engaged when the torch is turned off, there will be more wear and tear on it.
If it is to achieve a bit of focusing into the convergent-beam range (assuming this _might_ be possible) and one doesn't care about the head not screwing down as far as possible, a fraction of a millimetre taken off the base of the reflector will suffice.
If no convergence of the beam is desired and one doesn't care about the head not screwing down as close as possible to the body, leave the reflector as it is. While less of the thread will be engaged, only 0.25 of a turn will be required to turn the torch on and it will immediately be at parallel-beam focus, so wear and tear on the thread will be minimized.
Cheers,
John.


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## BGater (Dec 19, 2007)

I sanded some of my reflector off to let the head screw down almost as far as the stock bulb and started having trouble. The tiny plastic reflector gets really "mushy" for lack of a better word, after you sand off the base. After a few weeks of mild use I could not get the light to shut off as the reflector was distorted so much. Possible that I sanded off to much to start with. I do agree that leaving the reflector as stock is the best way to go for focus.


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## vincew1 (Jan 27, 2008)

I know a lot of you are bothered by the gap left in the head of the Solitaire after installing the LED. After reading this I didn't want to compromise the functionality of the light by sanding/grinding the reflector. Here is what I came up with. I had some automotive vacuum tubing lying around. Took the tubing and measured to the exact length of the gap, trimmed and stretched it over the flashlight using needle nose pliers. 

The result is an O-ring type piece of rubber that fills in the gap. I like it because when I reach in my pocket I can "feel" and locate my flashlight (from all the other stuff) right away. Plus the "O-ring" acts a stopping point for turning off the light. My flashlight actually has a midway point that turns it off. What I mean is that if you keep screwing the head down the light comes back on. So the "o-ring" is cut to the exact turn off point.

I suppose it would be nice if I could find a "Glow-ring" to fill that gap. That would make the flashlight identifiable in the dark, thus serving multi-purposes. I just haven't taken the time to measure/look for one yet.


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## Photon Joe (Aug 9, 2008)

I just finished modding a solitare using the 12 volt tiny battery and long spring method I found in another post somewhere.
The difference is I used a very tiny LED scavenged from a very small keychain "crank up" light that had 2 led's in the front of it , the LED is a perfict fit in the sol's reflector and just plugs in like a bulb does.
After clipping the leads to the proper length of course, matching the length of the original sol bulb.
One AAA battery would not work as the voltage is too low so I thought of trying the 12 v since the LED was running on a 6 volt source when in the "crank up" light.
These are the little square lights with a crank handle on the side and 2 "bulbs" 
in the front of the light .
I found the light at walgreens for $1.99
and when the battery went down I scavenged it for everything useable.
It has such a small LED I have no idea what the measurement is but it fits right through the hole in the reflector with no modification.
The beam is very floody with a very even distribution of light and is very bright.
I will try to get some photos of the parts used and the light they came from if anyone is interested.
I hope someone knows of a better battery that would fit without the long spring and supply the proper voltage just to clean things up a bit , it works fine as is but it's just me and my pickyness.


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