# Object/Subject Review: Niteye EYE10 TIC (Titanium+Carbon Fiber) [In Progress]



## Bigmac_79 (Oct 17, 2012)

*In Progress*

Previously known as JETBeam, Niteye announced their new brand name earlier this year after a disagreement with their distributor. Since that time, Niteye has continued to push forward with high-quality lights of all sizes. One of their most recent offerings is the EYE10 TIC, a classy materials upgrade to their well-received EYE10 model (plus a few other improvements). An infinitely variable CR123 or 16340 sized control ring light, with output from 0-500 lumens, the EYE10 is now available in a titanium/carbon-fiber body.





_Thanks to Niteye for providing the EYE10 TIC for review._

I’ll be reviewing the EYE10 TIC in two sections: first, I’ll discuss the light objectively (the facts about the light itself), then I’ll discuss the light subjectively (my impressions about the light's performance when used for specific applications). If you have any other specific applications you'd like the light tested for, let me know and I'll see what I can do.

5-Minute Overview

Below is a video "quick review" you can watch in just a few minutes, if you're not up for reading the full review right now:


_This video is available in 720p HD, but defaults to a lower quality. To select the playback quality click the settings button (looks like a gear) after you've started the video._


Objective

*Manufacturer's Specifications*

Price: $170

Coming soon...
*

Packaging*









The EYE10 comes in a simple cardboard box with the Niteye logo on the top. Upon opening the box, you find the EYE10 TIC nestled in a foam cutout covered in fancy yellow-gold colored cloth. Also included in the box are the user manual and warranty card, and accessories.

*Construction*





The EYE10 TIC uses a sing CR123 lithium or 16340 lithium-ion battery, so it's very small. Using a CR123 will get you up to a max of 260 lumens, while using a 16340 will get you a full 500 lm. This light is made mostly from titanium, with a carbon fiber tube at the body section. Being made from titanium, the TIC is not anodized because it doesn't need to be.

Now, lets take a closer look at the light, starting at the head and working back.







The TIC uses a Cree XM-L U2 emitter, known to be floody, high-output, and high-efficiency. The emitter is centered in a lightly textured reflector, which serves to smooth out the beam pattern and prevent and beam artifacts. The use of an XM-L in such a small reflector guarantees a very floody beam.









As you can see, the reflector of the TIC is fairly shallow, lending even more to flood and keeping the overall length of the light short. Where many lights have a stainless steel bezel to protect the light from impacts to the head, the bezel is of the TIC is made from titanium, just like the rest of the light, so it should prove to be very strong. In the middle of the head, three grooves are cut to increase the surface area and improve heat dissipation, which is crucial for such a small light with such a high maximum output. Behind the heat dissipation fins is the control ring, which is the only piece used to turn the light on/off and choose the brightness (there is no switch anywhere on the light). 

One notable upgrade from the EYE10 aluminum model is grip on the control ring. On the aluminum model, the "bumpy" portion was on one half of the ring, with the other half smooth. On the TIC, there are three bumpy sections , each about 1/6 of the circumference of the ring. Another notable upgrade is that the TIC model does not have any "click-stops" on the control ring, so you can easily choose any desired output level and are not confined to preset values.

Behind the control ring is the Niteye brand name and the model number, printed clearly in black. This is the only writing on the light.







The body section has a tube of carbon-fiber outside of a titanium shell. The carbon fiber is black with a sort of cross-hatched appearance, and is known for very high strength with a very light weight. 









At the tail of the light, the optional clip can be attached by two allen screws. Opposite the clip is a hole cutout as a lanyard attachment point, making it easy for the light to tail stand even with a lanyard attached (my review sample did not include a lanyard). At the tail, the TIC has an attachment point compatible with a standard camera tripod. (The aluminum model had a lanyard attachment post here.)

Now, let's take the light apart!







Without the use of tools, the TIC comes apart into two pieces: the head and the body/tail.









Inside the head, a small post serves as the electrical connection to the positive battery terminal. The white plastic ring surrounding the post acts as mechanical reverse-polarity protection, by preventing the flat negative terminal of a battery from contacting the post. The protects the circuit in the light from being damaged if the battery is accidentally inserted backwards. The only downside of this is that flat-top cells will be unable to work in this light. This isn't too big of a deal, because all CR123 and 16340 cells I know of have a button-top. However, many 18650 cells do have flat tops, but I'll discuss that later.

The threads of the TIC are small, but being made from titanium, I have no doubt that they will stand up well to wear over time. An orange o-ring maintains the waterproofness of the light. Inside the body, a spring makes electrical contact between the negative battery terminal and the body of the light. This spring is not actually attached to the body of the light, but is held in place by it's tension. I haven't had a problem with it coming out during battery changes.





The TIC can do a stable tail-stand. Also, it's worth noting that the clip extends just beyond the edge of the body section, but not up to the control ring. Some other lights in this class have trouble with their clips getting in the way of using the control ring, but that is not an issue on this light.


Dimensions

Coming soon...

Accessories





The EYE10 TIC comes with just a few accessories: a clip, two allen screws, an allen wrench of the appropriate size, and a spare o-ring.







The clip can be attached using the screws and wrench provided to the two holes at the tail of the light.


*User Interface*

The UI of the EYE10 TIC is very possibly the simplest of any light with more than a single output level. It is controlled only by a control ring, with no switch. With the light pointing away from you, turning the ring all the way to the right will increase the output, and turning the ring to the left will decrease the output. When the ring is all the way to the left, the light is off. 

For those that desire, the TIC has hidden strobe and SOS modes. To access the strobe, start from a level less than max and turn the ring to the max, then down a bit, then to max again (quickly). To access the SOS, do the same thing but with an extra time down then back to max. Once the strobe or SOS is activated, you can the modes's brightness by turning the ring to the right or to the left. The TIC will remain in the special mode selected until the light is turned off, then it will come back on in constant brightness mode.

In summary:
Off - all the way to the left
Increase Brightness - turn right
Decrease Brightness - turn left
Strobe - max, down, max
SOS - max, down, max, down, max


*Action Shots*

You can click on any of these shots to see them full size.

Light in Hand











White Wall (arbitrary levels up to Max)
_ISO 100, f/3.3, 1/20"
_















BeamSlice




MugShot




Indoor Shots (arbitrary levels up to Max)
_ISO 100, f/3.3, 1"
_















Outdoor Shots (Max)
_ISO 100, f/3.3, 2.5"_




Long Range (Max)
_ISO 100, f/3.3, 5"_





*Performance*

Submersion: I submersed the EYE10 TIC in about a foot of water for an hour, turning the light on and off using the control ring during that time, and the light shows no sign of water entering or damaging the light.

Heat: When using a 16340 on max brightness or near-max, the EYE10 TIC gets hot very quickly, and in about 15 minutes or so will get too hot to hold comfortably. When using a CR123 heat is not an issue.

PWM: I cannot detect any pulse-width modulation on any brightness level of the TIC.

Drop: I dropped the EYE10 from a height of about 1 meter onto various surfaces including grass, packed dirt, carpet, and wood. The light shows no cosmetic damage and still functions normally.

Reverse Polarity Protection: The EYE10 TIC has mechanical reverse polarity protection, so if you accidentally insert the battery backwards it will not turn on and the light will not be damaged. See the Construction section for more details on how this works. This also means that flat-top batteries do not work with this light, but most CR123 and 16340 cells do have button tops.

Over-Discharge Protection: I can find no evidence for any over-discharge protection built into the EYE10 TIC, so if you're going to use li-ions, I recommend using cells with protection circuits built in (especially due to the low capacity of these cells).

Spectral Analysis




All light that we see as white is actually made up of several different colors put together. The relative intensities of the different colors in the mix are what determine the tint of the white we see. For example, cool white LED's have a lot of blue, and warm white LED's have more red or yellow. This measurement was done on a home made spectrometer. The plot below the picture is corrected for the spectral sensitivity of the human eye. Note: the peak in the 900nm region doesn't really exist, it's a piece of the second-order spectrum that's showing up here because of the high intensity of the light source. 

Output and Runtime

Coming soon...
ANSI FL-1 runtime ratings are the time it takes for a light to fall to 10% of it's original output (counting from 30 seconds after turning the light on). 

The vertical axis of the graphs below represents a relative brightness measurement using a home made light box. The horizontal axis is time in hours:minutes:seconds. Runtimes are stated in hours:minutes:seconds. These graphs may be truncated to show detail.

*Mode Comparison
*
Coming soon...


Throwing Distance

ANSI FL-1 standard for stating a light's throwing distance is the distance at which the peak beam intensity (usually at the center of the beam) is 0.25 lux. I calculate throwing distance and candela (lux at 1 meter) by measuring peak beam intensity at five different distances and using the formula lux*distance^2=constant.

*Peak Beam Intensity: *
*Throw Distance: *

Subjective Review

Quick break down:

+ Wow.
+ Shiny
+ Extremely strong body materials
+ High output from a small package
+++ Lowest low I've ever seen
+ Head fits on the body of the EYE15
+ Very stylish
+ Perfect resistance on control ring
+ Smooth beam, warmer tint than most cool whites
+ Hidden strobe and SOS with adjustable brightness
+ Very small
+ Tripod attachment point

- Clip pressure could be stronger
- Control ring grip could still be improved

Let me just say that this is one of the most impressive lights I've reviewed. Aside from being Titanium (plus carbon fiber!), it's got the absolut best output range for a small light that I've ever seen, and the control ring ramps perfectly. 

First, I'll get the negatives out of the way. The only two things I'd like to see improved on this light are these: 1) the clip needs a bit more pressure to hold to a pocket firmly, and 2) the control ring needs just a little more grip.

So, now to the positives. I've been looking for a long time for a light that is suitable for use in low-light conditions. The EYE10 TIC is that light. It has the ability to get up to 500 lumens, so it has as much light as you'll ever need at close range. If you need a lot of throw, you need a bigger light, but indoors or at close ranges outdoors (such as in the woods or on a trail), the TIC will give you plenty of light. And the best part is, the TIC goes from the 500 lumens down to 0, and for all practical purposes, it hits every output in between. To test it, I went into a windowless room at night with all the lights off, and let my eye adjust to the darkness. I then proceded to turn the light on as slowly as possible, and it was impossible to tell exactly when the light turned on. It is capable of such a low output, that even with it right up next to my eye in the dark the light is barely perceivable. This means that you can make it absolutely as low as you want it at night, and no brighter, so that you have exactly the light you want and don't have to worry about ruining your night vision, waking a sleeper, or drawing unwanted attention to yourself. For those of you searching for an ultra-low low, you need search no more. And then, if you want a higher output, just a quick twist can light up the room.

The resistance on the control ring is pretty much just what I would have it be. It's smooth enough that it's easy to turn when you want to, but has enough resistance that I've never had it move in my pocket. This is pretty important, as the control ring is the only means of controlling the light. So, when the control ring turns, the light will turn on.

I really like the beam of the TIC also. The tint isn't quite what I would call "neutral", but I think it's closer to neutral than cool, and it's definitely warmer than your average cool white tint. The beam pattern is pretty much what you would expect from a head this size: floody, with a smooth hot spot in the middle. I haven't been able to find any beam artifacts.

One thing I've really liked about the EYE10 TIC is this: there is a manufacturer-made 18650 tube available! Niteye doesn't advertise this, most likely because they didn't think of it, but I've found that the head of the EYE10 TIC fits just fine on the body of the EYE15, which uses an 18650. Now, the TIC head doesn't quite cover the o-ring on the EYE15 body all the way, but it does cover it enough to maintain waterproofness. It also looks a little funny (the titanium head on the grey aluminum body), but it's great for the extra capacity of the larger battery. I should probably note also that the head of the EYE15 extends a bit too far for it to work with the EYE10 TIC body, so you only end up with one working light when you do this.

So, one thing that's bound to come up is how it compares to another very similar light, the Sunwayman V10R/V11R. Now that the EYE10 TIC version doesn't have click-stops (and both are available in titanium), this is a very similar comparison. Here are the main differences I can see: the V10R has a switch and the EYE10 TIC has a tripod attachment point, the V10R has a visible limit to it's low and the EYE10 TIC does not. Also, the EYE10 TIC has the option to run on the EYE15 18650 battery tube. For these reasons, the EYE10 TIC on the EYE15 body has replaced my high-CRI V11R as my EDC.

In conclusion, if you're looking for a small control ring light that's infinitely variable over a range from 0-500 lumens, this is currently an excellent choice. Due to being made from Titanium, the price is noticeably higher than comparable aluminum lights, but you'll find that for a Titanium light the price is actually quite reasonable.



*Long Term Impressions*

I'll fill this part in after carrying the light for a while. If nothing get's added here, either I find nothing else worth noting about the light, or I end up not using it often.


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Oct 30, 2012)

Pictures and video up :thumbsup:


----------



## outdoormanZ (Oct 31, 2012)

Nice looking pictures, looks attractive


----------



## F. Premens (Nov 1, 2012)

Waiting for more.


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Nov 1, 2012)

Thanks! I'm moving and starting a new job in the next few weeks, but I'll be continuing to work on these as I have time.


----------



## KuanR (Nov 1, 2012)

I hope the screws and wrench including aren't very flimsy like the SWM ones I got. The wrench doesn't grab very well and stripped very easily


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Nov 1, 2012)

KuanR said:


> I hope the screws and wrench including aren't very flimsy like the SWM ones I got. The wrench doesn't grab very well and stripped very easily



Mine went on without trouble, but I don't plan to take it on and off often.


----------



## KuanR (Nov 1, 2012)

Thanks for letting me know. I don't plan to either, I took it off once on my V10R and it stripped already. The replacement ones stripped the first time I tried to put it on 

Have you taken off the carbon tube yet? Could you post some pictures of it without it?


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Nov 1, 2012)

KuanR said:


> Thanks for letting me know. I don't plan to either, I took it off once on my V10R and it stripped already. The replacement ones stripped the first time I tried to put it on
> 
> Have you taken off the carbon tube yet? Could you post some pictures of it without it?



I haven't taken the carbon tube off. I have seen pictures of it off, but haven't figured it out myself yet. My general rule is to run all of my tests first, before i "fiddle" with it, just in case anything goes wrong. I will post pictures when I've done it.


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Nov 3, 2012)

Text added to several sections.

Have you watched the video yet? :thumbsup:


----------



## aaronhome27 (Mar 18, 2013)

Any updates on this light? Seems that reviews are hard to come by for it. Just curious as to how it is doing now after being released for some time now. I just snagged one off EBay just because of its somewhat unique look.


----------



## StudFreeman (Mar 18, 2013)

^ +1.
Is it regulated with 1*CR123a cells?


----------



## gravitysux (Mar 21, 2013)

Just ordered one as my next EDC, along with a protected RCR123 from Nitecore and a 18340 (Saw on the forum that a 18340 might fit)

I've been carrying a Nitecore MH1A as well as a Thrunite AAA, both are great lights, but I find them to be less than ideal around the house at night as the UI makes it hard to reliably turn on low mode waking up at 3AM. (The MH is cycle-through modes, including the annoying strobe, and the Thrunite AAA is quite sensitive twisting between off, low and high mode)

I was attracted to the carbon/ti look of the Eye10 TIC, looks great in the pictures.


----------



## aaronhome27 (Mar 23, 2013)

I had seen in a used TiC ad where someone had pointed out that the cooling fins are predrilled for 2x8 trits as well. Does anyone have any further info on this? Has anyone installed trits to one of these little lights? I can see the holes drilled in this reviewed model and curious if the OP had tried to drop some in. If these in fact work I would think that this light may move up the beginners mod list as a wanted light. The only true issued I see in these without physically having mine yet is the darn mounting hole on the tail end. If there was a proper sized flush mount magnet to put in there it would make for a very welcomed add on IMO.

I hope there are some more owners that can chime in or the OP as well as this light is quite different and more info would be great to have.


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Mar 25, 2013)

aaronhome27 said:


> Any updates on this light? Seems that reviews are hard to come by for it. Just curious as to how it is doing now after being released for some time now. I just snagged one off EBay just because of its somewhat unique look.



It's doing very well, it's been my EDC for most of the time since I reviewed it, except in situations where I was afraid of losing it. My only dislike is the short run time due to only using 16340 cells.



StudFreeman said:


> ^ +1.
> Is it regulated with 1*CR123a cells?



I can't say for sure, I apologize, though your question showed me I forgot to post the graph for 1x16340. I'll try to find that and post it ASAP. Unfortunately, I don't have the money to afford testing with CR123A's, unless the manufacturer includes some for testing with the light.



gravitysux said:


> Just ordered one as my next EDC, along with a protected RCR123 from Nitecore and a 18340 (Saw on the forum that a 18340 might fit)
> 
> I've been carrying a Nitecore MH1A as well as a Thrunite AAA, both are great lights, but I find them to be less than ideal around the house at night as the UI makes it hard to reliably turn on low mode waking up at 3AM. (The MH is cycle-through modes, including the annoying strobe, and the Thrunite AAA is quite sensitive twisting between off, low and high mode)
> 
> I was attracted to the carbon/ti look of the Eye10 TIC, looks great in the pictures.



The EYE10 TIC really is the best I've found for low-light conditions. You'll have to let us know how well the 18340 works.



aaronhome27 said:


> I had seen in a used TiC ad where someone had pointed out that the cooling fins are predrilled for 2x8 trits as well. Does anyone have any further info on this? Has anyone installed trits to one of these little lights? I can see the holes drilled in this reviewed model and curious if the OP had tried to drop some in. If these in fact work I would think that this light may move up the beginners mod list as a wanted light. The only true issued I see in these without physically having mine yet is the darn mounting hole on the tail end. If there was a proper sized flush mount magnet to put in there it would make for a very welcomed add on IMO.
> 
> I hope there are some more owners that can chime in or the OP as well as this light is quite different and more info would be great to have.



I had seen those holes but hadn't made the connection to trits, that's a very good idea! If I can find some for an affordable price and get an accurate measurement of the holes, I'll definitely give it a try and report what I find.


----------



## KuanR (Mar 25, 2013)

I used a AW 18350 IMR cell in mine when I had it and it's a perfect fit

Another interesting note is the cooling fin is pre drilled from the factory for 6 tritium vials, though I couldn't tell what size because I couldn't open up the light.


----------



## aaronhome27 (Mar 26, 2013)

The updates are much appreciated! Mine is actually in route to my home today!! From what I read on a Russian forum the light will do 260lm/cr123a ....... ~500lm/16340............~660lm/18350 . These numbers were also confirmed to possibly be correct by a couple of US owners who say the output is noticeable from cell to cell even with 16340 to 18350. That makes this one heck of a pocket flame thrower if lumens are what you are looking for. Personally I like good runtimes and usable light but it is always a plus to pull out a small light like this and wow people. As for the possible trit slots I had seen it in a for sale ad somewhere that they were 2x8mm slots. If that is infact correct that would make this one sweet budget/high end custom light if that makes sense. I may be sporting Ti, Trits, Carbon Fiber, and possibly the most lumens per size for under $200 if I can find the trits cheap. Look forward to more updates!!


----------



## aaronhome27 (Mar 26, 2013)

Pretty cool I got mine while I was typing. I have to say I am VERY impressed with the quality of this light. Everything is just right IMO. I had a SWM V10R Ti and because of little issues I sold it. Mind you they weren't performance issues just little details that bothered me. I am a bit anal about quality. This light here is superb in fit and finish compared to the SWM, once again IMO. The magnet ring is just right, the low goes as low as you want it, the finish is pretty much flawless, the tint (best U2 tint I have seen to date!! maybe lottery but it is nearly perfect for a cree of all things) of the LED used is quite nice with actually no artifacts or rings at all. I will stop there and reserve further judgement till after some use but this is one that I can say out of the box it is excellent. Now to find someone that has actually installed trits in one of these or atleast taken one apart.


----------



## stevieo (Mar 31, 2013)

my thanks to bigmac 79 for his review which got me interested in the eye10 TiC. i love this light. i use an aw imr 18350. i like this battery size and i am looking for another 18350 light. I was not too fond of the lack of tactile feel for turning the control ring one handed with my thumb at first. i was even sorry i bought this until i tweaked the control ring & it now has excellent tactile feel. I gave it tactile feel that was missing for me. i solved my problem with about a 1 cm wide length of black rubber electrical tape. it made a world of difference for tactile feel for me. i gave it a little stretch & progressively more stretch with each additional 3 or 4 revolutions until I had a tapered ridge of tape. tactile feel is excellent now. the overall beam pattern & light quality are excellent & better than most floody lights in this size that i own. very nice flood pattern with a defined hotspot at close at range on low output broadening well into the flood at high output levels. the coronas virtually disappear altogether at distances.

at close range around the house from low to high the eye10 TiC is my favorite in-home light. i have not used it outside except to test & it did a brilliant job of flooding a tool shed 75 feet out from my back door. i have never used it for edc because the head threads are not anodized for lock out. but it takes a decent amount of turn before the lowest output kicks in & ramps nicely all the the way up from there. ramp up lag is on the low end only. should make a good edc despite no lockout. control ring action is one of the smoothest i have encountered. no wobble & superior ramping. eye10 TiC low is the lowest I have seen in any light. the super low & the flood quality makes it my night stand light & midnight fridge run light. there is not much mention of this light in CPF but it is a winner, imo.


----------



## gravitysux (Apr 8, 2013)

Bigmac_79 said:


> The EYE10 TIC really is the best I've found for low-light conditions. You'll have to let us know how well the 18350 works.



Got my EYE10TIC last week, so far it's been an excellent EDC for me. I like the size vs output, look and feel of the ti/carbon, and I have no issues with the feel/friction/operations of the control ring. I've used it outside in subzero conditions with wet and cold hands and onehanded operations worked fine for me (If you are cold enough to have lost feeling and dexterity in your fingers it might be harder, but then using two hands are always an option for me at least).

The really low output is great around the house at night, "linear" ramping output is great for varying needs, and the max output on Li-Ion is impressive.

I've been running it with a protected Nitecore 16340, and a protected Surefire 18350 (It's buttontop polarity protection in the EYE10TIC). The 18350 fits perfectly in the width, but it's around half a millimeter too long, so the spring bottoms out when there's around 1/4 turn of thread left on the head. This is OK for me, the o-ring is completely hidden at this stage and the friction in the threads/o-ring stops any accidental loosening, I'm careful to not crush the battery. I guess a slightly shorter 18350 would be optimal. KuanR noted the AW 18350 IMR is a little shorter, but I personally prefer protected batteries.


----------



## greatscoot (Aug 1, 2013)

This looks very similar to the JetBeam TC-R1 and RRT-01. I especially like the tapped end to put on a tripod. Ti and CF look pretty cool too.


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Aug 2, 2013)

greatscoot said:


> This looks very similar to the JetBeam TC-R1 and RRT-01. I especially like the tapped end to put on a tripod. Ti and CF look pretty cool too.




Yep, that's likely because JetBeam and Niteye are both brands produced by the same company :thumbsup:


----------



## senterholic (Aug 9, 2013)

I would like to add one of the features this flashlight, this flashlight can be installed tritiums easily in coolfins, because this light has been provided 6 slots for tritium







in my TiC i have 12 trits installed


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Aug 9, 2013)

Thanks for that pic! I've been meaning to try some trits in those holes. Mind sharing what size you used, and how well they fit?


----------



## senterholic (Aug 9, 2013)

there are 2 tritium sizes suitable

1. size of 1.5 x 6 mm (not recommended)
The tritium can be installed but tritium slot hole in TiC is too big.
2. 2 x 8 mm
The tritium size may fit the tritium slot in TiC.

in my TiC using size 1.5 x 6mm with a few adjustments to the tritium slots in TiC to fit in and not oversized.

because i am only have size 1,5 x 6 mm


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Aug 9, 2013)

Thanks for that info!


----------



## nickso (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks for the review !!
Just placed an order for this light.... does anyone know a good holster that will fit this?


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Aug 31, 2013)

Sorry, I don't really use holsters so I haven't looked into it.



nickso said:


> Thanks for the review !!
> Just placed an order for this light.... does anyone know a good holster that will fit this?


----------



## nickso (Aug 31, 2013)

Bigmac_79 said:


> Sorry, I don't really use holsters so I haven't looked into it.


ok, thanks for the reply. 
I altered another holster that I had and it fits great.
Wanting to get some trits, but not sure if the 1.5x6mm or 2x8mm work best that senterholic mentioned above.

The control ring on my Eye-10 is not really that smooth, it feels a bit rough and not as smooth as my Nitecore lights.


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Aug 31, 2013)

nickso said:


> ok, thanks for the reply.
> I altered another holster that I had and it fits great.
> Wanting to get some trits, but not sure if the 1.5x6mm or 2x8mm work best that senterholic mentioned above.
> 
> The control ring on my Eye-10 is not really that smooth, it feels a bit rough and not as smooth as my Nitecore lights.



Glad to hear you've got the holster thing worked out! As for the trits, I haven't tried it myself yet so all I know is the info from senterholic above. For the roughness in the ring, I'm not sure what might cause that, mine's super smooth. Maybe you could do a cpf search for how people have handled control ring maintenance on other lights (I'm thinking SWM V10R in particular)?


----------



## gunga (Sep 1, 2013)

If you want to relube this light at the control ring, make sure you remove the LED and circuit before taking it apart. Otherwise you will rip the wires off the circuit. It's a 2 board layout, if you rip the wires off, it's not really possible to fix it.


----------



## nickso (Sep 1, 2013)

I added some TuffGlide and it helped a lot. Thanks for the warning about the wires. Need to take the head ring off to look at the holes for the trits.
Gonna order 1.5 x 6 mm to test.


----------



## Bucur (Sep 2, 2013)

Thank you, Bigmac 79, for your excellent review. I now have this flashlight and your review enabled me to hit the nail on the head when shopping for an elegant, small and powerful pocket EDC. Titanium and carbon fiber come at a price and the infinitely adjustable magnetic control ring may be relatively costly but this stylish little marvel makes me feel that this was well-spent money. Without your review, I could have hesitated and missed the opportunity.


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Sep 2, 2013)

Bucur said:


> Thank you, Bigmac 79, for your excellent review. I now have this flashlight and your review enabled me to hit the nail on the head when shopping for an elegant, small and powerful pocket EDC. Titanium and carbon fiber come at a price and the infinitely adjustable magnetic control ring may be relatively costly but this stylish little marvel makes me feel that this was well-spent money. Without your review, I could have hesitated and missed the opportunity.



Thanks, glad to know it was helpful!


----------



## shelm (Jan 24, 2014)

pics don't show: http://just.razzi.me/photos/829731/cc19adc.jpg
please could you fix?

1.5 years after its release it is now temporarily on sale, neolumen has 4pcs in stock afaik, at 69 money only. at this low price i rather feel tempted, thanks for the review!!


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Jan 24, 2014)

shelm said:


> pics don't show: http://just.razzi.me/photos/829731/cc19adc.jpg
> please could you fix?
> 
> 1.5 years after its release it is now temporarily on sale, neolumen has 4pcs in stock afaik, at 69 money only. at this low price i rather feel tempted, thanks for the review!!



Hey shelm, great find on that deal! Unfortunately my old pic hosting site has shut down, and to go through all my old reviews and re-upload and re-link to all my pictures would require me to hire a few personal secretaries who didn't mind do extremely menial tasks. Fortunately, I was able to go through and save the reviews as html+files before the hosting service went down. I plan to upload and make all these available in the future, but haven't had time yet, so here's the link to this one:

https://docs.google.com/uc?authuser=0&id=0B-IDTPwIgRDvdVdkSVRUN29CU1U&export=download

If I did everything right, you should be able to download that file, unzip it, and open the .html file to see the page as it was when I saved it. Let me know if it works or if you have any trouble.


----------



## shelm (Jan 24, 2014)

Thanks for the download ZIP.
*.html displays great in Firefox, thanks!!


----------



## Haesslich (Mar 26, 2014)

How long and wide is the Eye10 TiC compared to the SWM v10? I like the low levels of the v10, but hate the extra size it has for a 123 light. That, and the clip is awful. How does the Eye10 TiC compare there?


----------



## tradestar (Nov 9, 2014)

Sorry to bump an old thread. But does anyone know where I can get 1. I did a google search but it seams every one is out of them. I take it they were limited supply.


----------



## mvyrmnd (Nov 10, 2014)

I picked one up a few months ago from eBay.


----------



## hawkmoon69 (Jan 23, 2015)

I just picked one of these up and have to say am very impressed. I've been edc carrying a Mac's ti-tri-edc for a few years now, and this thing measures up well. just about as bright with an 18350 in and the infinite low addresses the main complaint that i've always had with macs light. The only question that I have for those more knowlegable than me is: the specs say it is rated for 2-3.2. seems fine running the 18350 at 3.7 and I know people have talked about it above, but is it risking damage to the light, I wonder?


----------



## Bigmac_79 (Jan 27, 2015)

hawkmoon69 said:


> I just picked one of these up and have to say am very impressed. I've been edc carrying a Mac's ti-tri-edc for a few years now, and this thing measures up well. just about as bright with an 18350 in and the infinite low addresses the main complaint that i've always had with macs light. The only question that I have for those more knowlegable than me is: the specs say it is rated for 2-3.2. seems fine running the 18350 at 3.7 and I know people have talked about it above, but is it risking damage to the light, I wonder?



I've been running mine on 16340's, same voltage as an 18350, and it works perfectly, no damage.


----------

