# Made my self a caving headlamp.



## Matjazz (Jan 4, 2013)

I guess I don't have to stress how expensive caving lights (waterproof, separate flood and spot) are. I decided to make one my self. At first it was going to use aluminum project box. I had it pretty much figured out and drawn but then I wanted something "proper" and drew some 3D models for CNC and a simpler model for lathe. After I found out how much CNC would cost and lost patience with a friend that has lathe I went back to the project box headlamp.

I used some ideas that I got designing "proper" housings and figured out that I have all the pieces for a prototype.






So I drilled some holes in Hammond project box





Placed on-of-on switch and a cable gland





Then I got too excited to take pictures. Few hours later the light lit up





The original lid is replaced with 5mm Lexan. Both leds are Cree XM-L. Flood is driven with a 3 mode 1A buck/boost driver. Spot is driven with a 2A customizable linear driver and is equipped with Leila RS optic from Ledil. Spoot and flood can't shine at the same time.





Next day I made Helmet mount and switch shield





I got some experience and ideas for improvements. Perhaps I’ll make it an “open source” headlamp with all parts listed and plans/drawings available. I had it in a cave and it performs well:twothumbs. I think this could be made in to a decent caving lamp. I have some ideas for battery canister and will report back if successful.


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## AnAppleSnail (Jan 4, 2013)

Neat! I like the switch guard. How does it hold up against water?

I sent Ahorton a PM about caving headlamp UI, but here's the gist:

Control of flood and spot has to either read your mind or allow intuitive control. This might work out to a separate control for each with identical function... which gets tough with mechanical switches on a reasonably-sized housing.


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## Mooreshire (Jan 4, 2013)

I love it! Great job, MatJazz. Thanks for sharing your project.


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## Changchung (Jan 4, 2013)

Just perfect...


Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...


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## asval (Jan 5, 2013)

nice project 

here's one I was planning on following whenever I have some free time. 

http://steampunkworkshop.com/home-depot-bike-headlight


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## eh4 (Jan 5, 2013)

Beautiful! Keep up the good work! I love it.


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## uk_caver (Jan 7, 2013)

AnAppleSnail said:


> I sent Ahorton a PM about caving headlamp UI, but here's the gist:
> 
> Control of flood and spot has to either read your mind or allow intuitive control. This might work out to a separate control for each with identical function... which gets tough with mechanical switches on a reasonably-sized housing.


Having been making twin-beam units for caving for quite a while with arguably unintuitive interfaces* (due to certain other design choices), and then playing with different options in a unit which was less constrained, the best UI I've come up with so far is one where a 2-way (centre-off) switch uses one direction to cycle through power levels, and the other to cycle through beam blends from pure flood through to pure spot - that gives a _lot_ of output combinations in a light which I can tell someone how to use in a couple of sentences.

(*though they made sense to me, and to most people who bothered to read the instructions.)

As far as the switch boot is concerned, I had issues on a photo lights I made with a full boot abrading away at the end (something which I guess the switch cover in the light above helps avoid).
After talking to a cave diver friend, I switched to partial silicone boots which leave most of the switch lever exposed, which he had found waterproof down to at least 60m, and which according to the datasheets should withstand even higher external pressures.


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## Matjazz (Jan 7, 2013)

Judging from your posts I take it making caving lamps is something you mastered. I'm interested in caving lamps and I was wandering is there a place on the web where one can see your work?

I also thought a full switch boot might abrade at the end so i reinforced it with a heat shrink tube with factory applied glue. I'm using Apem switch and switch boot. The switch boot is made of three parts and I doubt it's waterproof so I glued the parts together. I'm also worried about switch longevity. Any recommendation on the switch (and boot)?


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## uk_caver (Jan 9, 2013)

Most of the things I've made have been inserts for existing headsets (mining lamp headsets and Petzl Duos) rather than complete lamps, which results in a different set of challenges, but did effectively put a lot of my decision-making upfront into one big decision.

I have made some photo lights in a very similar box to the one you used for your light, and that was where I used the partial boot on a toggle switch (farnell part number 146844, APM HEXSEAL - N5032B) which seems to work pretty well.
When it comes to switch longevity, I guess a lot comes down to how easy it is to replace the switch if it does eventually wear out - for my photo light use, the switch will probably end up operated rather less often than a caving light would.

Probably my least-good area is cosmetics, but one thing I have found really useful as far as appearance goes is PTFE-insulated wire - it's much thinner than PVC-insulated wire of similar current capacity, and for wiring which will end up visible, also has the advantage that the insulation doesn't melt back if soldering takes slightly longer than it should.
It does need a well-adjusted stripper to strip the insulation, and the wire is relatively expensive, though as far as expense goes, for cosmetic reasons I tend to stick to a single wire colour for any particular application, which does at least avoid buying numerous £10/25m reels for a single job.

Is the gasket under your lexan plate a commercial one, or something you made yourself?
Your box looks nicer than the ones I use for my photo lights - do you have a part number for it?


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## dparr (Jan 10, 2013)

Very nice!

Looks like a very well built headlamp.

I'm a long time caver myself.


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## Matjazz (Jan 11, 2013)

uk_caver said:


> Most of the things I've made have been inserts for existing headsets (mining lamp headsets and Petzl Duos) rather than complete lamps, which results in a different set of challenges, but did effectively put a lot of my decision-making upfront into one big decision.
> 
> I have made some photo lights in a very similar box to the one you used for your light, and that was where I used the partial boot on a toggle switch (farnell part number 146844, APM HEXSEAL - N5032B) which seems to work pretty well.
> When it comes to switch longevity, I guess a lot comes down to how easy it is to replace the switch if it does eventually wear out - for my photo light use, the switch will probably end up operated rather less often than a caving light would.
> ...



Thannk you for useful info.



uk_caver said:


> Is the gasket under your lexan plate a commercial one, or something you made yourself?
> Your box looks nicer than the ones I use for my photo lights - do you have a part number for it?


It's Hammond 1590WLB enclosure(Farnell #1877375). It comes with gasket and is rated IP65. I bought it from Conrad but now that I looked it up on Farnell I see they also sell gasket only (#1877089) which is good for spare parts :twothumbs

Are you making your own drivers for lights where you can control brightness and flood/throw balance?


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## sween1911 (Jan 11, 2013)

I love that. Robust and purpose-driven. And 100% custom! Very nice.


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## uk_caver (Jan 11, 2013)

Matjazz said:


> It's Hammond 1590WLB enclosure(Farnell #1877375). It comes with gasket and is rated IP65. I bought it from Conrad but now that I looked it up on Farnell I see they also sell gasket only (#1877089) which is good for spare parts


Thanks for that.
Unfortunately, it has 40.5mm centres for the lid-fixing screws, while the ones I was using for photo lights (and for which a friend got some fronts professionally cut) had 41.0mm centres



Matjazz said:


> Are you making your own drivers for lights where you can control brightness and flood/throw balance?


Yes.
When I started (2004) I'm not sure there was any choice other than DIY (if there was, I wasn't aware of it), and I had a background in computing and electronics which made it relatively straightforward, even if the first light was rather more effort than I'd expected.


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## porterboy (Jan 12, 2013)

Thats a nice looking light ya got. looks like it would be cave worthy. I am about to start on my cave light as well. Any cave trips made with the light yet? im wondering how the seal hold up against alot of water?


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## Matjazz (Jan 13, 2013)

I had it in cave, but it hasn't got wet yet. This isn't the final "product" anyway. I believe the housing seal can hold water out because it can be squeezed a lot. The bundled screws also have each it's own seal. Before I take it to some serious caving I must seal all additional screws and get a proper round cable.


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## borrower (Jan 13, 2013)

uk_caver said:


> Thanks for that.
> Unfortunately, it has 40.5mm centres for the lid-fixing screws, while the ones I was using for photo lights (and for which a friend got some fronts professionally cut) had 41.0mm centres



Ebay (or a kitchen store, I suppose) will supply "silicone baking mat" in various sized sheets, usually blue or racy red. The stuff I found was a hair over 1mm thick. The really important detail is that it be smooth both sides -- some are textured on one or both sides. Works a treat for gaskets.


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## argleargle (Jan 14, 2013)

Matjazz said:


> I had it in cave, but it hasn't got wet yet. This isn't the final "product" anyway. I believe the housing seal can hold water out because it can be squeezed a lot. The bundled screws also have each it's own seal. Before I take it to some serious caving I must seal all additional screws and get a proper round cable.



A squeeze-tube of automotive gasket sealant might be the thing, works on the screws as well if you're not so keen on getting them back out easily.


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## blatant1 (Jan 21, 2013)

Awesome job!!! I wish I had the skills to do something like this.Any pics of the shine?


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## Matjazz (Jan 21, 2013)

I'm working on a improved version with battery box. Perhaps I'll do some beamshots then. It might take some time.


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## majoetetaa07 (Jan 23, 2013)

Matjazz said:


> I'm working on a improved version with battery box. Perhaps I'll do some beamshots then. It might take some time.



Hello Matjazz. I made myself my own caving light. I write a post you can find with this link:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?353657-My-new-caving-light

You will find on this post some link of french spéléologists who are very prolific as regards of caving light.

A plitaw :wave:
Etienne


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## ian1210 (Mar 11, 2013)

borrower said:


> Ebay (or a kitchen store, I suppose) will supply "silicone baking mat" in various sized sheets, usually blue or racy red. The stuff I found was a hair over 1mm thick. The really important detail is that it be smooth both sides -- some are textured on one or both sides. Works a treat for gaskets.



Thanks for the baking mat idea! I was wondering how I could make a gasket for the caving headlamp I'm building, now that problem has been solved.

Ian


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## ian1210 (Mar 11, 2013)

uk_caver said:


> Having been making twin-beam units for caving for quite a while with arguably unintuitive interfaces* (due to certain other design choices), and then playing with different options in a unit which was less constrained, the best UI I've come up with so far is one where a 2-way (centre-off) switch uses one direction to cycle through power levels, and the other to cycle through beam blends from pure flood through to pure spot - that gives a _lot_ of output combinations in a light which I can tell someone how to use in a couple of sentences.



Your switch layout sounds great! I've been looking all over the internet for a single driver that can independently control 2 LED's to no avail. Sounds like you've either designed and built one or found one somewhere else. That's awesome! Can you share either where you found this driver?

Or, if it's something you've made, is there any way I could purchase one? I'd like to use 2 XM-L2 Led's, so it would need to support 3A output minimum. Thank you so much for your reply! I'm new to building headlamps and LED's, but I have an electronics background and am frustrated with all the lights available to cavers right now.

Ian


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## uk_caver (Mar 12, 2013)

ian,
It's a homemade driver.
Since the driver core uses AMC7135 chips for final power control, pretty much any number of chips can be paralleled for higher current. Due to using the linear drivers, it would need a ~3.6-4.5V input voltage, so if using lithiums, it would need a single cell or parallel cells, rather than a series arrangement.

I could go into more detail but I don't want to derail someone else's thread, and it doesn't seem like I can PM you.
Could you PM me and give me an email address for further communication?


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## Matjazz (Apr 1, 2013)

I made a new build with double the power 







Now I have to find some glue that stays clear.


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## Matjazz (Apr 5, 2013)

It all started on a drawing board or better yet on a monitor



1

The plan seemed good but I was worried if I could really cram everything in the Hammond box



2

Drivers and spot leds are in place and flood leds wired. Checking flood, checking spot. So far so good.



3

Closed with a 6mm Makrolon



4

And the solution for batteries



5

It is appropriate tat we take a bath before we go out



6

So far I like it 



7

I haven't mounted it on a helmet yet, because I'll make a sort of clip that will allow single hand removal/mounting of the lamp while 
retaining tilting. I'll also add battery meter from hobbyking. The driver for flood is LD29 (intl-outdoor.com) that is actually current regulated (no PWM, 2,6A max measured with single XML). I used two flood leds for better efficiency and possibility to upgrade with more powerful driver. Spot leds are in series and driven by KD 7135 V2 (2,280A) linear driver. Spot starts flickering on max if it gets too hot and stops as soon as it cools (under tap water). The canister was hardest to find. I couldn't find right one until I found out about geo caching and their cache containers. It's a Mighty Mega (gxproxy.com) and it's a perfect fit.


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## Changchung (Apr 6, 2013)

Matjazz said:


> It all started on a drawing board or better yet on a monitor
> 1
> 
> The plan seemed good but I was worried if I could really cram everything in the Hammond box
> ...



Just perfect...


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## The_Driver (Apr 6, 2013)

Thats a very nice headlamp! 

I would use Sinkpad PCB-Starts made out of copper for the LEDs. They improve the heat transfer immensely make the light brighter. They can be ordered here.


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## majoetetaa07 (Apr 13, 2013)

Very good job Matjazz !!
To have a better transfer of heat, couldn't you put the spot driver vertically against the top of the box ?

@ The_Driver: you can also buy LEDs on copper PCB here.
Very good eat transfer. It is these LED I have used in my first caving headlamp.


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## Matjazz (Apr 14, 2013)

Thank you all for comments 



The_Driver said:


> I would use Sinkpad PCB-Starts made out of copper for the LEDs. They improve the heat transfer immensely make the light brighter. They can be ordered here.


I would too, but then I couldn't fit the Ledil optic.




majoetetaa07 said:


> To have a better transfer of heat, couldn't you put the spot driver vertically against the top of the box ?


My thoughts exactly. First plan was to put the battery monitor there, but I guess it'll have to switch places with spot driver to get the latter away from heat source. I'll do it when I get the battery monitor from hobby king.

Also there's been a new setback. Die cast aluminum 380 is susceptible for corrosion and it isn't suitable for standard anodizing. It'll have to be the pricier powder painted version of the box and the clipping system that I had in mind will probably get cancelled.


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