# MagCharger Mods Lineage



## Ginseng (Apr 9, 2004)

*This post was returned to the thread on 2/8/06.*

Hi,

With all the recent activity going on lately, I thought it might be useful to capture some of the evolutionary steps in the modification of this platform. Please feel free to make suggestions or fill in the blanks. If this goes well, I'll do the same for the regular Mag bodies.

*Stock*
_Bulb:_ 6V, 1.4A, 8.4W estimated output, 190 lumens
_Battery:_ 2.5Ah nicad, 5 cells
_Body:_ stock

*Level 1*
_Bulb:_ 6V(+), 3.45A, 20W, output 500+ lumens (WA01160)
_Bulb:_ 6V, 3.35A, 20W, output 465 lumens (WA01111)
_Battery:_ stock
_Body:_ stock
_Note:_ The first level functional upgrade for increased brightness at the cost of reduced runtime. 

*Level 1.1 - MC60a, MC11a*
_Bulb:_ Level 1 bulb options
_Battery:_ 2.5Ah PowerStream nicad, 5 cells
_Body:_ stock
_Note:_ Some improvement in runtime, brightness and significant improvement in light output stability over Level 1. 

*Level 1.2 - MC60, MC11*
_Bulb:_ Level 1 bulb options
_Battery:_ 3.5Ah UMP nimh, 5 cells
_Body:_ stock
_Note:_ Significant improvements in runtime, brightness and light output stability over Level 1.1. 

*Level 1.2.1 - MC11+*
_Bulb:_ 7.2V(+), 3.35A, 24W, 850+ lumens (WA01111)
_Battery:_ 1.7Ah 4/5SC nicad, 6 cells
_Body:_ de-anodized tailcap, replacement spring
_Note:_ Moderate improvement in brightness over Level 1.2 but with significantly reduced runtime.

*Level 1.2.2 - MC85*
_Bulb:_ 9.6V(+), 3.15A, 32W, output 1,000+ lumens (WA01185)
_Battery:_ 2.0Ah AA nimh, 9 cells
_Body:_ stock
_Note:_ The brightest Level 1 class mod. 

*Level 1.2.3 - MC74*
_Bulb:_ 7.2V, 2.77A, 20W, output 553 lumens (WA01274)
_Battery:_ 1.7Ah 4/5SC nicad, 6 cells
_Body:_ de-anodized tailcap, replacement spring
_Note:_ Potentially quite similar to the MC60a mod. 

*Level 1.2.4 - MCX1*
_Bulb:_ 6V, 5.8A, 35W, output 780 lumens (Osram64275AX)
_Battery:_ 3.5Ah UMP nimh, 5 cells
_Body:_ reamed reflector, notched bulb pedestal
_Note:_ Axial filament bulb results in the only perfectly circular spot in the MC mod family. Bulb does not accept overdrive.

*Level 2 - Stretch Mods*
_Bulb:_ Any Level 1 bulb
_Battery:_ 3.5Ah high current nimh, cell count as indicated in corresponding mods above. Typically as loose cells or soldered ministicks coupled with the main 5-cell stick.
_Body:_ extension rings as needed, mica heat shield
_Note:_ Mod Level 1.2.3 is pushed to 7 cells. The maximal combination for runtime and brightness consists of the WA01185 overdriven on 9 x 1/2D cells using a 4 x 1/2D extension ring. 

*Level 2.1 - MC35RLA* Reflectorized Lamp Assembly
_Bulb:_ SL-35X LA, machined rim, 7.2V(+), 3.6A+, 26W
_Battery:_ 3.5Ah high current nimh, 6 cells
_Body:_ 1 x 1/2D extension ring
_Note:_ This is the first significant RLA mod. It combines the massive power capability of the high current nimh cells with the smooth output of the SL-35X LA.

*Level 3 - H3 Class*
At this point, it is unclear whether it will be possible to fit an H3 bulb into the MagCharger system. If (big "if") it is possible, it will provide near-Aurora class output in a similar sized package. Personally, I have my doubts that the switch core will survive nearly 9 amps of current. 

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 9, 2004)

Ginseng

Awesome! I was trying to do this on paper so I could figure out which way I wanted to go.

I think that the note line on 1.2.1 needs to be checked though. Improved brightness, less runtime?

Also, where can you get the batteries to make these mods if ou need them?

Bill


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## kongfuchicken (Apr 9, 2004)

mmm...
I'm thinking about upgrading my 1.2 to an 1.2.4
hehe /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif


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## Ginseng (Apr 9, 2004)

Thanks bwaites,
Line edited. I get some cells from www.cheapbatterypacks.com and www.battlepacks.com. The rest from www.batterieswholesale.com.

kfc,
The 1.2.4 is quite punishing on the torch. For some reason, that bulb runs really hot. Plus, the work required to modify the pedestal makes it borderline worthwhile. Still, it is presently the only axial bulb mod for the MC I know of. I honestly couldn't recommend it unless you don't mind having the torch almost completely disassembled.

My favorite combo right now is the 1.2.2. Super bright. Once illuminated figures out what it takes to get the trickle current down to a safe level for the AA cells, it'll be all the torch I need. For those times that I need massive brightness and massive runtime, it's gotta be the 2.2.2. Projecting up to 70 minutes of kilolumen output. Sweet /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Wilkey


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## kongfuchicken (Apr 10, 2004)

Thanks for the advice Ginseng; I bow down to your superior hotwire expertise /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif
I don't really mind having my flashlight disassembled. In fact, I pretty much disassemble everything I buy the moment I receive it; that could explain why I've never had a working watch for very long... 
Once it's available, I'd still like to look into that option because I'd really like a nicer looking, rounder beam. Right now, however bright it may be, the shape of the beam always reminds me that it was once a stock [email protected]


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## bwaites (Apr 10, 2004)

Ginseng, can you carge these in the MC charger or do you have a seperate charger?

How do you do the end to end packs?

Also, I thought I remembered you saying that the MC had a metal reflector? The one I have has a plastic reflector?

Bill

Bill


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## Nerd (Apr 10, 2004)

bwaites,

MC has a thin metal reflector, the plastic (black I think?) you're seeing, is just to hold the reflector.


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## Ginseng (Apr 10, 2004)

KFC,
We can talk if you'd really like an MCX1. I have everything needed to convert your MC to the 1.2.4 version. I can also show you how to return it to stock.

bwaites,
I'm working on the charger with Illuminated. At this time, it seems as if up to 7-cell 1/2D packs can be charged in the stock cradle. Mods need to be done to accommodate the lower Ah cell packs. It remains to be seen exactly what needs be done to charge a 9-cell 1/2D pack. The reflector is spun steel in a plastic carrier frame. I solder my end-to-end packs.

Wilkey


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## fivemega (Apr 10, 2004)

Wilkey, I hope you don't mind if I add one of my experiences.
I installed 12xAA NiMH in original M*gCharger without reboering or resizing. I have 2 groups of 6 cells wired in series (7.2 volt) and these 2 groups are wired in parallel to increase capacity and current capability. I have used 1800mAH AA batteries which was the highest at the time but today, 2300mAH is available for same price. This will give you a battery pack of 7.2 volts @ 4600mAH
There are several bulb options that can give you higher brightness to higher run time.
I know it takes more work to build this battery pack but it is just another modification that can be done on 3D M*g as well.


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## bwaites (Apr 10, 2004)

Ginseng, I understood the soldering end to end packs part, just wondered how you accomplished that? I've been building RC packs for years, but always side to side, I like "rolling my own", so to speak, but haven't ever done the end to end thing. I've ordered 10 of the 3500 cells to make packs with.

Can they be charged in the MC, with the MC charger? I'm not sure I understood what you were saying when I asked the question above

And as I am new to the MagCharger part of torches, wondered what UMP packs stand for?

Oops, never mind, I was entering UMP into the wrong forum on the search engine. Got it now.

Sorry for all the questions, I guess thats why I'm on the turnkey Aurora list, but I got tired of waiting and wanted to do something while I waited.

3rd Edit--Has anyone found another source for the 3500 1/2 D's? 31 bucks shipping for 10 cells is a little stiff. Is there a stateside source?

Bill


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## Nitro (Apr 10, 2004)

I'm with kfc. I have a 1.2 and would like to convert it to a 1.2.4.


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## Nitro (Apr 10, 2004)

Then again the 1.2.2 looks like an easy upgrade. Just need to switch out the battery and bulb. Is there any thing else that needs to done to the light?

Does the WA85 run hot? How does the beam look? Does it even have a "beam", or is it one big wall of light? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif


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## kongfuchicken (Apr 10, 2004)

Nitro, I think the charger also needs modification to charge 9 AAs...
Ginseng, thanks! pm coming your way.


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## Ginseng (Apr 10, 2004)

Fivemega, 
I don't mind additions at all. I may have started this thread but I'd like all MC modders to chime in with their favorite configurations. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Am I to understand you got 12 cells in the body? Would that be in triangular three-bundles? I'm looking at my triangular 9-cell pack next to a stock stick and it doesn't look possible even if you replace the tailspring. Did you use flat-tops? Or did you use square four-bundles. I'm still pretty new to this MC modding business so I'd love to hear about other bulb battery configs you've run.

bwaites,
E2E soldering is pretty straighforward to do. Here is a link to one method. The 5-cell stick can be charged in the cradle. It looks like up to a 7-cell stick can be charged in the stock cradle. I have not found a stateside source for 3.5Ah+ 1/2Ds. PowerStream sells them in minimum quantities of 100 but they come from China, like the Aeronimh cells. Heck, they might even be the same cells.

Building End-to-End packs

Nitro, 
The 1.2.2 setup can vary a bit depending on the cells you choose to use. High capacity consumer grade AA (like the Maha 2.2Ah and Sanyo 2.1 and 2.3Ah) cells seem to supply the necessary current just fine. Then there are the 1.7Ah and 1.8Ah flat top high current nimh cells. Due to their greater retention of capacity under high loads, the difference between those and the high cap button top cells might not be as dramatic as the spec amp-hour ratings might lead one to believe.

The 1.2.2 produces a large bi-lobe secondary hotspot to go along with the very bright primary hotspot. In fact, I find that you don't need to defocus it to light up a large area. The diffuse secondary beam does just fine. I guess that's one way to avoid the dreaded "Mag Hole."

The WA01160 runs very hot and the WA01185 runs even hotter. I'm talking hot enough to burn a hole in a paper towel even after switching off the light, removing the front bezel and then grabbing a towel to grip the bulb with.

On the issue of heat, I've been trying some 3mm compressed fiberglass and even after 16 minutes with the '60, the FG mat is scorched. The grade I've been playing with is rated to 750F so this gives you an idea of what we're up against. I'm afraid that this means we are going to have to go with pure mica mineral sheet. Anything that uses a binder (like the compressed FG) will scorch in no time. Unfortunately, there is a $50 minimum purchase on the research grade sheets but that would mean enough to make shields for something like 200 MC's. 

Wilkey


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## Nitro (Apr 10, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*kongfuchicken said:*
Nitro, I think the charger also needs modification to charge 9 AAs...
Ginseng, thanks! pm coming your way. 

[/ QUOTE ]

I just read the stock charger can only charge up to 7 cells. Is that correct?

So what needs to be done to the charger? Do we know yet?


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## Ginseng (Apr 10, 2004)

Working on it, Nitro. Possibly a resistor change and a more powerful wall wart.

PM answered, kfc.

Wilkey


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## Nitro (Apr 10, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*Ginseng said:*
The 1.2.2 produces a large bi-lobe secondary hotspot to go along with the very bright primary hotspot. In fact, I find that you don't need to defocus it to light up a large area. The diffuse secondary beam does just fine. I guess that's one way to avoid the dreaded "Mag Hole."

[/ QUOTE ]

How does it (beam quality that is) compare to the WA60?

[ QUOTE ]
The WA01160 runs very hot and the WA01185 runs even hotter. I'm talking hot enough to burn a hole in a paper towel even after switching off the light, removing the front bezel and then grabbing a towel to grip the bulb with.

On the issue of heat, I've been trying some 3mm compressed fiberglass and even after 16 minutes with the '60, the FG mat is scorched. The grade I've been playing with is rated to 750F so this gives you an idea of what we're up against. I'm afraid that this means we are going to have to go with pure mica mineral sheet. Anything that uses a binder (like the compressed FG) will scorch in no time. Unfortunately, there is a $50 minimum purchase on the research grade sheets but that would mean enough to make shields for something like 200 MC's.

[/ QUOTE ]

So,correct me if I'm worng, the main problem is too much heat for the base of the socket? Gotcha.

So what's involved in installing the heat shields?


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## Nitro (Apr 10, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*Ginseng said:*
Working on it, Nitro. Possibly a resistor change and a more powerful wall wart. 

[/ QUOTE ]

Forgive my ignorance, but what's a "Wall Wart"? Sounds like a bug the lives inside walls? I assume it's another charger. Does that mean the stock charger needs to be replaced, or can it be modded?


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## udaman (Apr 10, 2004)

I'd like to qualify the notion on axial bulbs. I have already posted a reply to Ginseng on the 'Mag Extender rings(tubes)' thread about other axial bulbs, to which I got no response. It may be possible to use one of these Philips bulbs, some of which I saw at Home Depot. Of course you will have to live with longer body lenght to get 12v or more, which may not be such a bad thing considering how hot the front portion of the lights will get. They are all 12v, and despite poorly written Philips site, with not a lot of information, they are all axial IIRC. You can do a search on their site for 'halogen low voltage' and get a partial list, then do another search for 'halogen low voltage axial' and get another list. Throw in lamp size of T3 or T4 to your search, also.

Also a 75w version, but that's pushing 7amps.

50w version, kind of big T4 size(would be difficult to install?, need to bend the bi-pin inwards?), longish filament ~800 lumens, but less heat at 12v for less amps being pushed
50w, 12v, bi-pin T4 size, 800lumen axial bulb 
35w, 600 lumens for only 3amps, shouldn't tax the MC that much, if you could live with the bigger T4 size bulb?

35w, 12v, 600lumen, T4 axial 


T3 size, only 320lumens at spec, can it be over driven with 3000hr rated life?. Should not be that difficult to cram in, and the filament is shorter than T4 size.

20w, 12v, 320lm, T3 bi-pin axial 

Nitro, most of us have already read Ginseng's Ultimate Mag Pack(UMP) and other battery combo's with various bulbs where Ginseng shows the burned whole in the paper towel, a gazillion times before. But FYI, here's the link
MagCharger Mods: Batteries, Bulbs, and Pictures


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## Ginseng (Apr 10, 2004)

Nitro,
Sorry, a wall wart is slang for an AC-DC transformer. If we're lucky, simply using an uprated (higher voltage and current delivery) wall wart would allow the use of the stock cradle. Beam quality of the WA01185 is quite similar to the '60. Yes, the problem is too much heat at the base eventually melting the plastic pin socket. A proper heat shield would be drilled for the pins and bulb tail. So you would just slip it in between the bulb and the socket.

udaman,
I try to answer all questions directed at me unless 1) someone else answers first or 2) I just don't have time. As for using larger bulbs, the issue is not just bulb girth but the LCL. If the Light Center Length, basically the length of the bulb from the end of the pins to the filament, is too long, it will not focus in the MC. Typically, 3,000 hour 12V bulbs can be pushed to 14-18V before they become really efficient. The flat base T4 bulbs you link to above are G6.35 so the pins are not only too widely spaced but too thick. Also, the rectangular base would not allow it to be dropped further into the pedestal to allow focus since the LCL is so large. Ask me how I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif BTW, why do you make such a point of letting us know that some of your posts go unanswered? 

Wilkey


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## Nitro (Apr 10, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*Ginseng said:*
Nitro,
Sorry, a wall wart is slang for an AC-DC transformer. If we're lucky, simply using an uprated (higher voltage and current delivery) wall wart would allow the use of the stock cradle. Beam quality of the WA01185 is quite similar to the '60. Yes, the problem is too much heat at the base eventually melting the plastic pin socket. A proper heat shield would be drilled for the pins and bulb tail. So you would just slip it in between the bulb and the socket.


[/ QUOTE ]

Gotcha. WallWart = AC-DC transformer. Why didn't I get that before? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif That would be great if that's the only change to the charger. Would the heat shield allow for proper(micro) sideways adjustment? That would be awesome.


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## fivemega (Apr 11, 2004)

Wilkey,
Pack is 3 x square four-bundles. I have used GP brand. Some brand of AAs are thick and won't fit. I use original bulb which runs on 7.2 volt. This option is not brightest but brighter and whiter output than stock, longer run time and lighter weight. As I mentioned earlier, there are several bulb options depending on your needs.
Also there are many battery configuration for resized body but for untouched body, 12 cell is the best (in my opinion)


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## Ginseng (Apr 11, 2004)

That makes sense now. I had thought about making interlocking packs for another application. AAs definitely make for a lighter weight torch.

Thanks, 5M.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 11, 2004)

I plan on ordering some 1/2 D cells (3500's) since shipping is so much anyway, I thought someone here might want to order some at the same time.

I'll post in group buys also, but I'm sending out my order this week, so if someone wants them you need to act now.

I had them all set to order, about to push the button, then decided to hold on since the shipping was so much.

Bill


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## Bullzeyebill (Apr 11, 2004)

Wilkey, what about potting WA01185 and using in standard mag, with three AA holders; EL improved holders?

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 11, 2004)

bwaites,
Did you see the ongoing 1/2D GB in the GB forum?

Bill,
That's a fine combo that's an equivalent to 1.2.2 MC85.

Wilkey


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## js (Apr 11, 2004)

Ginseng,

The 35X driven at 7.2 volts should draw 3.6 amps or slightly more, not 3.5 amps. Not much of a difference, but since you put a "?" after the current draw, I thought I'd mention the current draw I measured. There are, of course, possible variations between SL-35X lamp modules.


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## Ginseng (Apr 11, 2004)

Thanks for the clarification, Jim. Edit made.

Wilkey


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## Bullzeyebill (Apr 12, 2004)

What I should of said, re WA01185 X 9AA NiMH's in a 3D Mag, is this too hot for bulb holder? Any melt down issues? I would of course use PMR, and UCL or borolite.

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 12, 2004)

Not so far Bill. The ceramic potting seems to provide some measure of protection. In this respect, the regular Mag is actually more robust than the much more expensive MagCharger.

Wilkey


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## Bullzeyebill (Apr 12, 2004)

The more I hear about heat issues, the more I think that LA's are the way to go the way Streamlight sets them up. Most of the heat, if not all, is contained in the enclosed LA, with the pins sticking out the end and insulated from heat. I had a Streamlight UltraStinger bulb potted in a blown LA, and worked ok till I tried to push it. Xenon bulb. If I could get the tech to try out a WA bulb for me in a SL LA. Issue is fixing bulb in LA for good focus. That is where Mags come in handy with adj. focus. I will talk to the guy.

Bill

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 12, 2004)

Jim is working on a bulb clamping system for Carley-type reflectors. I think that will be a very promising option for the ultimate in bulb flexibiity.

Wilkey


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## js (Apr 13, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*udaman said:*
I'd like to qualify the notion on axial bulbs. I have already posted a reply to Ginseng on the 'Mag Extender rings(tubes)' thread about other axial bulbs, to which I got no response. . . .

[/ QUOTE ]

I responded to you, then deleted my response. But since you insist, I responded again in that thread.


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## Ginseng (Apr 13, 2004)

Bill, 
I tend to agree with you. The ceramic potting in the reflectorized LAs is a natural insulator. Thank goodness the SL LA's drop right into the MC head. 

I wonder if Jim's potting system is going to be the first breakthrough. A ceramic potted, yes focuseable system! Now that would be amazing. 

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 17, 2004)

up


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## paulr (Apr 17, 2004)

This thread is awesome, thanks for bumping it as I missed it first time around. Mod 1.2.2 sounds especially interesting. Any chance it can be adapted to a regular 3D mag instead of a magcharger? That would mean replacing the plastic reflector with a magcharger metal reflector or something similar, of course. Would a lot of other stuff have to change? I do like the idea of using regular AA's and AA chargers instead of having to mess with special cells and chargers. It would also be good to have something for the 2D mag, using 8 cells (4 square), or even getting away from Mag altogether. I wonder if Wayne (Elektrolumens) would be willing to work with us, by selling us some Blaster bodies that would then need Carley reflectors.


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## Ginseng (Apr 17, 2004)

Hi Paulr,
I run the 1.2.2 (WA01185 + 9xAA nimh) in my Mag3D. In fact, I run it on 10xAA for extreme overdrive as the "MoMag." Basically, just use potted WA01185 bulbs (I've got a few extra), a Carley RF-1940 reflector (bored at the ream and machined at the lip) a couple of 3-D holders and you're good to go. Certain AA cells will fit in a 4-stack. Sanyo 2100 are one such cell.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 17, 2004)

Wilkey,

I'm trying to do this mod, have been working on it for the past week.

How did you set your batteries up? Did you find a carrier for 3AAx3 or build one? and how did you fit the 10th one in?

Do I have to custom build a 4AAx3 carrier or did you find one that worked?

Bill

P.S. Can I buy a few of your 1185's? I've been looking for potted 1185's for days!!

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 17, 2004)

Bill,
Here are some answers for you.
1. For the Mag D, I use 3 x modded Elektrolumens 3-D adapters. I'd wait for the release of his V2 models. Much lower resistance. 

2. For the MC, I soldered together a pack of 9xAA cells, then scavenged EL 3-D adapters for the positive and negative contact pads. This is shown in my MagCharger Bulbs and Batteries thread.

3. For the 4AA carrier, I took a RadioShack 4AA stacked holder and heavily, and I mean heavily, modified it to hold 4 cells, fit in the D-body and have the contacts at opposite ends of the holder.

4. I can sell a few WA01185. I see you've PM'd me. I'll contact you shortly.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 17, 2004)

Thanks Wilkey,

I had already bought the RS holders and was dinking around with them, trying to not mess them up too bad and still make them work.

What is the max voltage on the 1185?

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 18, 2004)

10 cells is about it. Figure on 1.15V or better (at 3.2A or thereabouts) per cell so 11.5-11.8V for this 9.6V nominal bulb. 

Just keep in mind that the "insta-flash" rate for the WA01185 on 10 cells has been about 20-30% in my experience.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 18, 2004)

Thanks again, ready to take me up on my PM offer?

Bill


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## bwaites (Apr 21, 2004)

Have you tried the 1185 with 4 123's?

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 21, 2004)

Bright but clearly not up to potential. The voltage drop is substantial. IMO, a waste of the bulb. The WA01318 or WA01274 would be better on 4x. CA809 is also ok.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 22, 2004)

Thanks Wilkey!

Bill


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## bwaites (Apr 26, 2004)

just keeping this closer to the top.


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## Ginseng (Apr 26, 2004)

I will be back to update this as some recent work comes to fruition. Hopefully, also updating the MC Bulbs/Batteries post.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 26, 2004)

Wilkey,

Got the bulbs today, hope to get a pack together to use them tonite.

Have you tried the 1160 on sub-c 7.2 or 8.4 volts?

Bill


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## bwaites (Apr 27, 2004)

Wilkey,

WOW, tried to mod a RS 8AA holder with a 4AA holder using just 2 slots to run some mods as you mentioned here earlier.

When you mentioned "heavily" modified holders, it must have been an understatement! Did you replace ALL the wiring?

Every time I got it together and put cells in it, poof, I'd toast one of the connecting wires. 

I'm going to have to rethink this or wait on the 3-1 D conversions.

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 27, 2004)

Bill,
PM me your address and I will send you a non-functioning unit to examine. It became non-functioning when I forgot to screw on the tailcap and lifted the light up and all my battery holders fell out the back. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/whoopin.gif You can see the scheme of the basic mod. However, the two side struts are snapped so it will not hold the cells securely. 

I am fairly sure the '60 will not survive 6 cells.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 27, 2004)

Thanks Wilkey, once again your hotwire expertise is a rescuing grace for us neophytes!!

Bill


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## bwaites (Apr 28, 2004)

Wilkey, is there any advantage to the 1274 bulb over the 1160?

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 28, 2004)

Bill,

They are really bulbs for two different applications. The '60 is a 5-cell bulb that'll make 500-550 lu at max overdrive. The '74 is a 7-cell bulb that'll make up to 900 lu at max overdrive. I don't have a good battery setup to run in the stock MC body...except perhaps 7xAA nimh. Nothing single stack as far as I know. Well, that 's not correct, you could run 7x1/2SC but runtime would be pretty low, probably about 25 minutes.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 28, 2004)

Thanks Ginseng,

In looking at your mods lineage, then, the 74 is similar to the 85 with a little less output?

I'm building some C/D cell mods for family members, who don't want the initial startup costs of the MC mods. Any advice on my best options? No bigger than 3-4 cell bodies, preferably smaller, but I have told them that less than 3 cells significantly limits options. They want max brightness with run times of at least 30-45 minutes, but preferably at least one hour.

Bill


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## Ginseng (Apr 28, 2004)

Bill,
That's about right.

Do they want to deal with rechargeables? WIll they spend on lithiums? I'll need more parameters to help with a recommendation.

Wilkey


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## bwaites (Apr 28, 2004)

Rechargeables are OK, AA modules are my plan since they are relatively easy to find and charge. I've been working on some 3-to-1 modules for them.

Though 123's are ok as well, I just don't know if they will flow enough juice after my experience with 123's and the bulbs you sent me.

Bill

Bill


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## bwaites (Apr 30, 2004)

btt


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## Ginseng (Apr 30, 2004)

Bill,

If you go with a 2D body, you can load 6x2.3Ah AA cells in two 3-D carriers and use the WA011111 (available at FlashlighLens.com I think) for approximately 40-45 minutes of continuous runtime. More if used intermittently. Also, keep in mind that unless they only use the light in short squirts of no more than 3-4 minutes, they will damage the stock plastic lens and the reflector. A glass lens and aluminum reflector would be required for prolonged use. You could also use a dummy + 5 cells for the WA01160 which I know FLens carries.

Alternatively, you could also use 5-cell Krypton bulbs overdriven in this same setup. Compact and much brighter than a comparable stock 2D. They'd get somewhere between 2.5-3 hours of runtime. There would be no concern with damage to the lens or reflector with this option.

Those are the easy options. Anything in between these two would likely entail purchasing special bulbs from Carley or WelchAllyn and the headaches that would bring.

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Apr 30, 2004)

I gotta get on the 3 to D bandwagon!

I found when trying to light up a 50W MR16 I had to get up to 7x123 to get enough current. I should think 9 hi cap AAs should do well???


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## Ginseng (Apr 30, 2004)

Hmm, 
At the 4.2A the 50-watter would be pulling, high cap AAs would be stressed pretty hard. Voltage drop would knock it down to under 10V in no time. I'd say you're stepping into high-current territory. What you were probably experiencing with the 123s was massive voltage drop at a still sub-spec current delivery. I mean, think about it...7 cells is 21V at low draw. You're dropping almost 1.3V per cell just to light it up.
Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Apr 30, 2004)

As you can probably tell Ginseng, I'm not exactly a brainiac about this stuff. I just know that in order to play with any of my BRIGHT lights much, I gotta get into cheaper power! I could use all the help I could get!

I could move my WA01318 and Carley 1940 reflector over to a D cell light then, and could USE it instead of play with it!

Obviously, to drive the 50W MR16, I could double or even triple column 123s. But frankly I can't AFFORD to burn up 123s that fast! 2 at a time in a TT2L or G2 is plenty fast! 12 to 36 in 30 minutes? YIKES!


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## NIGHTGUY (Apr 30, 2004)

Great work Ginseng. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Maglite should put you on the payroll. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


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## Ginseng (Apr 30, 2004)

Joe,
I'd say look into Elektrolumens new 3-D holders. Let's you get max voltage into D-bodies. A bunch of $2 Sanyo 2100Ah cells, a $40 charger and you can have cheap fun over and over again. 

Thanks, nightguy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wilkey


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## bwaites (May 17, 2004)

Wilkey, I'm waiting for the regular Mag Body thread you promised in the first post on this thread!

Thanks for this one, though!

Up for the newbies and modders.

Bill


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## udaman (May 17, 2004)

[ QUOTE ]
*PlayboyJoeShmoe said:*
As you can probably tell Ginseng, I'm not exactly a brainiac about this stuff. I just know that in order to play with any of my BRIGHT lights much, I gotta get into cheaper power! I could use all the help I could get!

I could move my WA01318 and Carley 1940 reflector over to a D cell light then, and could USE it instead of play with it!

Obviously, to drive the 50W MR16, I could double or even triple column 123s. But frankly I can't AFFORD to burn up 123s that fast! 2 at a time in a TT2L or G2 is plenty fast! 12 to 36 in 30 minutes? YIKES! 

[/ QUOTE ]

37w MR16 IR, w/50w output? 

Hmm, if you can get one of these 37w MR16's shortly in the 10 degree spot version, and can get the low resistance 3AA-D adapter from Electro(I haven't seen anyone report getting them yet on the Electro forum), then pair with 8-packs of $17.87 Sanyo made 2300ma AA Energizer's from WalMart...should be a more cost effective/longer runtime setup. (oh, yeah; on some other link/page, I think there is also a 61w version to replace 75w standard...you're not that crazy though, are you /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif )

But you know, someone here on CPF with some ingenuity should come up with a 4AA to D size adapter. Even the fatter 2300ma AA's will squeeze into a MagD body. Now if if had a shaft down the middle of the 4 cells, and then spot welded X shaped crossmembers for bracing and contacts placed on those, it would be slim enough to fit. Though in a little silicon grease if the fit is still tight, and they should slide right in. Else, just strip the plastic outer wrapping on the cells to slim them down enough to slide in easily. Maybe SilverLegacy would make them? Or someone else? SilverLegacy's website page for the MagHID, pics of the CR123 4toD adapter

SL's pics on the MagHID CPF thread, with plastic version of D-cell adapter


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## Ginseng (May 17, 2004)

ChiefWigggum has already designed and sold a very limited run of 4AA-D holders. They're still in demand although he has finished production.

Fat 2300's will not necessarily fit into a 3D. In fact, likely not. My MAHA 2000's are touch and go but my Sanyo 2100's are mostly fine. And this is with no holder at all. If you strip the wrapper, the cells will touch each other and short if you close pack them.

Wilkey


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## udaman (May 17, 2004)

Left-to-right, AA NiMH's: Energizer 2300ma, Maha 1550ma, & 2 Lenmar NoMemPro 2300ma 

Thanks Ginseng, I took the pics(large 1600x1200 close-up 145KB image) in this link to show long-term gassing? corrosion of the positive button terminals on the 2+ yr. old Maha's, and similar occurrences (from a 4 pack where the other 2 seem unmarred so far???) in the Lenmar's. Note the Energizer (Sanyo made) has 4 small vent slots in side of the button...don't know if the others have similar venting just below the plastic end caps or not?

Anyhow, I just tried them all...Energizers have what appear to be slightly thicker, less than a micron? plastic wrappers, and hence fit quite snugly. The others it's firm, but they slide in and out on their own weight.

Looks like the wrapper on the Maha is fraying, wearing through from abrasion at the end...somehow I seem to have a habit of blowing up batteries, must be a genetic defect /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Managed to leave a small plastic AA light in the car, and it warped from the heat; then installing/removing some of the Maha's, the metal contact strip somehow shorted the batteries, and the batteries got nice and hot...I survived, but the Maha's didn't recharge after that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Edit for additional info:
Chief Wiggum thread-
Any interest in a 4AA to D adapter?

CW says in another WTB thread, that these were a PITA to build, and will not be doing another run /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

BTW: using el cheapo calipers (not very accurate); Energizer 2300ma NiMH'a I have are 14.4mm in diameter, 1 yr old CostCo brand "Kirkland Signature" AA alkaline are 14.3-14.4mm diameter...essentially the same. Lenmar's are the same 14.4mm, so the nanometer??? difference in plastic wrapper thickness does effect tightness of fit.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (May 17, 2004)

6aa in a 2D M*g woud drive an SL 20X (P) module safely and bright wouldn't it?

When 3AA to D holders are available again I GOTTA get some!


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## Ginseng (May 18, 2004)

Depends on AA chemistry and which SL20 LA?

20X 10W LA - nicd/nimh only
20XP 8W LA - maybe alkies
20XP 3W LA - alkies ok

Wilkey


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (May 18, 2004)

NimH fer shur Wilkey, I am looking to run for free!!!

Just gotta get some 3toDs!!!


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## Ginseng (May 18, 2004)

Hell,

In that case, screw the SL-20X LA and go straight to the SL-35X LA. You owe it to yourself /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Wilkey


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## AC_Doctor (Aug 10, 2005)

Where are the 3.5 amp battery stick available at ???


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## AC_Doctor (Aug 10, 2005)

Where are the 3.5 amp battery sticks available at ???


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## AC_Doctor (Aug 10, 2005)

Where are the 3.5 amp battery sticks available at ???


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## bwaites (Aug 10, 2005)

WOW, the ever rare triple post!

Ginseng is in the process of a group buy, PM him and ask about them.

Bill


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## AC_Doctor (Aug 14, 2005)

back to the top


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## caprice106 (Sep 1, 2005)

New to this board- Can someone please walk me through the steps to contruct the 1.2.2 version? I have to honest, this will be the first "major" mod that I attempt so if someone could help a brother out I'd appreciate it.


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## shrock (Sep 20, 2005)

What happened to the info in this post (post #1) and this other one...?

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=46797


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## js (Sep 21, 2005)

shrock said:


> What happened to the info in this post (post #1) and this other one...?
> 
> http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=46797



Yeah, I was referencing the MC, UMP and 4AH battery comparison thread and noticed that it was gone as well.

Wilkey went through almost all his threads and gutted them. You can now find them at www.hotwireguys.com, which is fine, but I wish he hadn't removed them from CPF. Still, keeping images online costs money, and if you're swtiching over from one server to another, I can see why you'd remove the text along with the images. Still. . . kinda makes a statement, doesn't it?


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## Ginseng (Sep 21, 2005)

I have not ported these threads to any other forum nor am I planning to at this time. I've pulled all the technical posts for the following reason: The state of the art in plug-n-chug modding, especially of the Maglite platform, has advanced such that some of my findings and recommendations are no longer accurate or useful. Moreover, new developments in similar veins have resulted in safer and more reliable solutions. I will return to refresh all the posts once I have brought them up to date. This will be as time permits and on a one by one basis.

And as Jim noted, I am considering dumping my image serving service.

Wilkey


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## js (Sep 21, 2005)

Ginseng said:


> I have not ported these threads to any other forum nor am I planning to at this time. I've pulled all the technical posts for the following reason: The state of the art in plug-n-chug modding, especially of the Maglite platform, has advanced such that some of my findings and recommendations are no longer accurate or useful. Moreover, new developments in similar veins have resulted in safer and more reliable solutions. I will return to refresh all the posts once I have brought them up to date. This will be as time permits and on a one by one basis.
> 
> And as Jim noted, I am considering dumping my image serving service.
> 
> Wilkey



This is really good to know, Wilkey! Thanks for setting us straight.

However, I would have to totally disagree about your recommendations being "no longer accurate or useful." That's nonsense. They will remain as accurate and useful (more or less) as they once were, especially for all those people who are going it on their own, and who are not buying FM heads and modded bodies, or Kiu adaptors, and so on. You're threads were the gold standard for the sort of modding that ANYONE with two hands (or even just one) and a brain and a $20 spot and a strong desire, could do. That is very worth-while. I admire that about you.

And even if that doesn't sway you, consider that threads have an historical value, as well as an informational one. It's pretty neat to look back at what we were saying and doing two years ago. It's fun to see where we were, and how far (or not) we have come.

Anyway, thanks Wilkey!


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## QED (Jun 1, 2006)

I'd be interested in getting an update on the state of the light for MagCharger Mods. Anyone have an updated list?

Moved from Mica heatshields to ceramic sockets?
Any new switches for lower resistance or is the stock still up to par?
Anyone bore out a MagCharger for more cell packed punch?

Thx


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## Gitlaa (Feb 23, 2007)

Can someone please post a link to where I can buy the 6V(+), 3.45A, 20W, output 500+ lumens (WA01160) bulb?


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## fivemega (Feb 24, 2007)

Gitlaa said:


> Can someone please post a link to where I can buy the 6V(+), 3.45A, 20W, output 500+ lumens (WA01160) bulb?


[size=+1]*Here*[/size]


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## macemagnus (Nov 19, 2009)

Great thread -- GREAT forumlovecpf

I will order an MC85 kit in a weeks time;
9AA->3D adaptor
WA1185 bulb(s)
Ceramic slug
:naughty::naughty::naughty:

All the BEST!
/mace


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## bamaron69 (Jan 7, 2010)

Anyone here actually do the Mod's for others? I would like to send my magcharger to someone and have it Moded. I know nothing about mod'n lights. I would love to have a magcharger with 1000+ lumen output. Need help plzzzz.


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