# A2 tune up thread



## leukos

*Surefire A2 Aviator*

There are a lot of questions about DIY improvements for this light :hairpull: , so I am attempting to put most of it in one thread, with pictures and links, so it can serve as an easy reference guide for questions. Please feel free to add links or post suggestions.  

*1. How to tighten the pocket clip?*

First, remove the bezel.









Next, carefully remove the bezel o-ring with a toothpick.








To remove the lanyard ring, see this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1438244#post1438244
Here's a pic of it disassembled if that helps to know how it is held together:







Grab that SF lanyard you have laying around.....








....and loop it around the clip. 









Pull carefully and take care that the small black plastic insert below the clip does not go flying!








Use a pair of pliers and squeeze carefully as shown until the the parts touch. 






Then reassemble to enjoy your tighter pocket clip!!! You may have to wiggle the clip a little to get it back in it's slot depending on how much you bend the clip. If it is hard to push back in, try pushing it against the edge of a table, that usually does the trick for me. 




*2. How to sand LEDs for a smoother beam?* 
(This mod is simple to do, but it is at your own risk as it may void SF's warranty.)

Stock A2's with white LEDs have a fairly diffused beam; the colored LEDs do not and actually have a rather ringy beam pattern similar to the olympic rings symbol. Many CPFers have found that sanding or scuffing these LEDs gives them a much smoother, diffused beam that is preferrable for just about every application. White LEDs can be sanded as well to get rid of the 'angry blue' but some throw is lost.

First,unscrew the bezel and pull out the lamp.








Next, remove the three screws with a mini phillips screwdriver (take care not to lose them, they are small). Carefully remove the LED ring from the bezel. Usually it will just fall out with a slight tap, but it may require gentle use of pliers. 








With a pair of needle nose pliers and a sponge sanding block (fine grit), carefully sand each of the LEDs to your own liking. Hold the LED firmly with the pliers and take care not to twist or cause the solder to break. White LEDs may need very little sanding as they are fairly diffused, colored LEDs may require more scuffing depending on how diffused you wish the beam to be.








When finished, the LEDs should look cloudy all around the top half of the dome. Be sure to brush off the dust to make sure there are no remaining clear spots. The next two pictures attempt to show sanded LEDs, though I appologize for the quality.












Again, before reassembling, make sure you remove all dust, lint, etc as you don't want to get debris in your A2 bezel. When replacing the screws, you may need to use your pliers to get them into position. Remember the bezel is only aluminum, so do not overtighten the screws. They should be snug though for proper contact. If after reassembly one or more of the LEDs are not lit, check to make sure the screws are snug as this is commonly the cause. 

Test your A2 in LED mode to see if the beam pattern is as diffused as you wanted it, if not, sand them a little more until you are satisfied. Below are beamshots of my red, green, and white A2's with sanded LEDs. Notice how evenly the light is diffused (sorry, no before and after pictures, but if you want an excellent review of the colored varieties of the A2, see greenLED's thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119758&page=1&pp=30 ).

















*3. GITD? (glow in the dark)*
If you purchase some glow powder, glow paint, or tritium vials, you can make your A2 LEDs glow in the dark! For greenLED's mod with tritium vials, see this thread: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=120034 
Paint and powder can be purchased here: http://www.glowinc.com/ (I prefer the Ultra Blue). I used glow powder and mixed it with Uhu brand glue to make a paste. I then applied it to the back of my A2 LED's with a toothpick. Colored LEDs do not charge GITD that well (white LEDs work best), though one quick blast from the incandescent and they will glow all night! Here's a few pics:















*4. Colored Filters?*
The older style SF 'E' series flip-up filters fit (snuggly), but not the newer hex-style. Here's a picture of SF's F05 flip-up filter stretched over the A2 bezel:







This style filter is no longer available from SF, but is made by Bushwacker and can be ordered here (size 1): 
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...TS&dept3=ACCESSORIES&dept4=UNIVERSAL&vendors=
or here:
http://www.quakeinc.com/optic.html





*5. Holster?*
SF's V20 holster seems the best fit to me, YMMV.







*6. Differences in A2 models?*
Older A2 models had square bodies with four flat sides, newer models have a rounder body with three smooth sides. Older models had a short clip, while newer models have a longer one. Also, older models had a smooth bezel, whereas the newer bezel is scallopped.







*7. Tail standing?*
The A2 in the top of the previous picture has a delrin tailcap guard-ring that allows for tail standing and provides some protection against drops. CPF'er oregonshooter makes an excellent quality tail guard-ring that looks sharp and functions better than any other tailcap ring I have used (pictured in the next two photos). When available, you can purchase one here: http://store.oregonshooter.com/ These can also be purchased from Malkoff here: http://www.jsburlysflashlights.com/...hroud&cat=flashlights&catstr=HOME:flashlights 












*8. Better way to attach the lanyard?*
Get rid of that lanyard ring and attach an o-ring! Seriously, if you don't have need for the break-away feature of the stock lanyard ring, then use a thick doubled-up o-ring with the lanyard for a much easier and more secure means of keeping track of your A2.  







*9. Adjusting the incandescent beam?*
The A2 has a slightly oval incandescent beam that can be adjusted somewhat to suit your usage and preference. This is done by removing the bezel and rotating the A2 lamp to reposition the filament. My preference is to align the filament vertically with the pocket clip, this way I know that the beam will be veritcally oriented when I hold by A2 in my usual 'cigar' grip. I prefer a sharper oval beam because it tends to be more consentrated and produces the furthest throw. However, the lamp can also be rotated to align the filament with one of the LEDs which seems to round the beam a little more. This preference is popular among many A2 owners as well. Experiment to see what suits your needs best!

There is also a great after market lamp available from Lumens Factory that is a little brighter for less $$: http://www.lumensfactory.com/cart.php?cat_id=8

CPFer FiveMega has also made a bi-pin adapter for use with the Streamlight Strion bulb. These are no longer in production, but a very nice upgrade if you can find one: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/184556&page=2

*10. How to swap the LEDs?*
Here's a wonderful thread with illustrations on how to mod the A2 LED ring with the LEDs of your choice: 
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92993&highlight=a2


*11. Use with rechargeables?*
I have cycled rechargeables through my green A2 150+ times now with no issues, but caution should be taken since these are unprotected Li-ions. Currently there are no protected Li-ions that fit in the A2, only unprotected. CPFers have asked if the cell AW sells for the L2 will work in the A2. I have not tried it, but based on my limited knowledge of the circuitry in the A2, it appears to be a buck circuit that pushes the voltage down to 4.5 volts or so to power the lamp. One Li-ion does not have enough voltage to power the incandescent lamp, so yes, you must use two Li-ions for it to work. Again, this is at your own risk and also probably voids SF's warranty. 
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=87768&page=1&pp=30
see also:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=95230


*12. Anything else you ever wanted to know about the A2....*
Here is the most extensive post written yet about the Surefire A2: 
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=107943&page=1&pp=30

Also, here's an equally amazing comparison of the various beams of each color of the A2 as well as some with modded LED's: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119758&page=1&pp=30

And if you haven't read enough yet, here is an excellent thread index collected by Atomic_Chicken, the designer of the Aviatrix: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=165635

Enjoy!


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## kidatari

Sorry man, but none of your pics are showing up.


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## Phaserburn

kidatari said:


> Sorry man, but none of your pics are showing up.


 
ditto


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## rcashel11

The only picture I can see is the one with the F05 filter.


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## leukos

Sorry about the pics. I host them on geocities, and i always have this problem the first day I post a lot of pics. Check back later, they should be working.


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## Somy Nex

only a couple would load for me the first time i saw the page, but they all load up for me now (took some time though). some pretty interesting info here =) :thumbsup:


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## Grox

Great stuff leukos! Excellent summary post  :buddies:


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## PoliceScannerMan

:rock: Great thread, I'm gonna try to tighten my clip and sand my blue leds!!!

EDITone!! My beam is SOOOO much smoother!!

And my clip is TIIIGGGHHHTTT!!! :rock: 

-PSM


Mods, Care to make this an temporary sticky???

I found it helpful, and it was my first mod!!!


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## wquiles

Thanks for the nice summary dude :bow:

Will


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## Timson

Great write up Leukos........

Well I 've had my Red A2 for 2 days now, so its high time I took it apart and started modding it.

I really want that smooth diffused beam from my red LED's that you have in your pictures.

I have 2 sanding pads.....A 180 Grit and an even finer 220 Grit (Very fine).
Which would you use?

Any advice as to how to physically do the sanding.... ie - Linear strokes, circular movements etc...
Hopefully with an abrasive pad this fine - the orientation of the sanding work won't leave defined scratch lines in the direction of pad movement...but it's just something I'm worried about so thought I'd ask before jumping in head fist and ruining my lovely new light.

TIA,

Tim.


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## leukos

Thanks, Timson.

I actually have no idea what grit I used on my LEDs as I threw away the packaging a long time ago. I'm sure either grit will do the trick. I used a circular motion mainly because it was the easiest and did the job more effectively. Good luck! 

P.S. Sorry to everyone who can't view the pics, the site I host my pics at has a small data transfer limit so they don't show up when the thread gets a lot of views. :sigh:


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## Timson

Well......Used the 220 grit pad.

Actually a lot easier than I thought.

When I re-assembled and tried it out - the light was beautifully diffused, but I'd really killed the throw and overall output.

Got a bit of T-Cut - (car bodywork cutting polish) on a rag and gave the LEDs a quick polish.

I think I've now achieved the desired effect.
Obviously some of the throw is lost, but the 'ringyness' is now gone.  

A2 is now perfect. :rock: 


Tim.


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## leukos

Timson,
Glad to hear it worked for you. It is a simple mod with very pleasing results. You are right that there is a slight reduction in output, but I think you will find in a completely dark room that even with a little less output, the diffused beam actually works better with night adapted eyes. 
I still can't figure out why SF prefers the ringy LEDs when they can be easily had with a much better beam?


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## batman

I just bought a red filter for my A2 from that bushwacker site. Now I can have the standard white LED or put on the red cover and still have the diffused light, no sanding required. Cool!


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## batman

I've tried getting that clip loose and it won't budge a millimieter. I may have a newer model where it's fixed rather than removable? I'd consider myself of average strength and If i pull any harder I'm afraid that clip is going to break or seriously warp out, did anyone else have trouble getting it loose?


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## J_Roc

batman, the pocket clip is not "fixed," just really well seated. The suggestion from leukos to use paracord works best, but like he said, make sure the little plastic piece does not go flying across the room when the clip comes out.


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## batman

i must have done something wrong. i finally removed the clip and bent it with plyers (like in the pic),but now it's impossible to get it back in there! this mod might have been a mistake


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## leukos

batman,
It sounds like the fit for your clip is unusually tight. Normally there is a little resistance pulling it off and it does require a little wiggling to push it back in (you'll need to eat your wheaties!) but the end result is worth the work. Several folks have reported losing their expensive surefires from leaving the clip stock.


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## batman

fixed it. I ended up straightening the clip back out again by inserting it backwards a bit and pulling up. Then it went in ok. It was actually getting the clip to slide in under the slot on the flashlight body that was hard. once i got it started it was easy. 

I have ran a runtime test and noticed that some folds say not to run the incan again once it falls out of regulation, but is it fine to run the LEDs? 

My last question about this light is the heat issue. It gets super hot on long runs but doesn't reach thermal shutdown,...anything to worry about? If i sound worried its just because this was an expensive flashlight.

thanks!


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## carrot

batman said:


> I have ran a runtime test and noticed that some folds say not to run the incan again once it falls out of regulation, but is it fine to run the LEDs?


Yes, it's fine to use the LEDs when the incan goes out of regulation. That's what they're there for.



> My last question about this light is the heat issue. It gets super hot on long runs but doesn't reach thermal shutdown,...anything to worry about? If i sound worried its just because this was an expensive flashlight.


It's an incandescent light. Incandescent lamps are not harmed by heat the way LEDs are.


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## JNewell

Hmmm, curious about the body variations shown way above in the pictures for #s 6 and 7. The light shown with s/n A10490 has a scalloped bezel with the "hot surface" warning. I have an A2 that is about 1,000 units higher but has the earlier non-scalloped bezel and no warning. Question for Leukos: does that A2 have the original bezel? Not a big deal, just curious.


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## seery

leukos - GREAT information, THANKS for putting it together.

Will be getting my first A2 light (actually two, red and yellow/green since
I can't decide) next week and this thread will be a wealth of help. Especially
the sanding of the LED's.


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## leukos

JNewell said:


> Leukos: does that A2 have the original bezel? Not a big deal, just curious.


 
JNewell,
Ha, curious you ask. No, that is not the original bezel (I had to think about it for a moment). I did an A2 body swap with another CPFer and I don't know if he had a round or scalloped bezel originally as he had a T.I.D. mounted on it. I'm also not sure about the one at the bottom of the picture (lowest serial #) as I bought that second hand. It seems like SF might have introduced the scalloped bezel somewhere around those numbered 12,000+ ?


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## rgp4544

I just bought a 2mm Phillips screwdriver and used it for the LED sanding on one of my red A2's.

I had no sanding sponge so used a small piece of dry 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to buff each LED and the red beam is now very smooth. It does however appear that the farther toward the base that each LED is sanded, the wider the flood might be. I suspect that the results might be better with 800 or 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

After doing this I read Timson's post which mentioned that this can kill the throw and I hope he didn't mean the throw of the incandescent bulb...now I'm waiting for it to get nice and dark to check results...

Richard


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## rgp4544

Sanding the LED's definitely does knock out some of the throw of the incandescent...also it appears to have altered the incandescent's spill beam significantly, creating spots and rings which is probably why Surefire doesn't do this, so I'll get finer grits and work up to 1500 or 2000 or higher, or maybe try some of that polish used for buffing scratches out of clear plastic and plexiglass.

The red LED beam is perfect however.

Richard


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## leukos

rgp4544 said:


> Sanding the LED's definitely does knock out some of the throw of the incandescent...also it appears to have altered the incandescent's spill beam significantly, creating spots and rings which is probably why Surefire doesn't do this
> 
> Richard


 
I'm not sure this is an accurate observation. From how I understood it, folks who have mentioned loss of throw from sanding LEDs were talking about the throw of the LEDs. Your incandescent beam may have changed if the lamp was rotated from how the filament was previously aligned. I'm not sure about the artifacts in the spill beam either. Many folks have commented about the spill beam pattern of the A2 on a white wall being not as pretty as the beam of the E2e, but actual use the A2 spill is preferable. I not sure this mod has any affect on the incandescent beam's characteristics. Perhaps some dust got on the window or reflector? Perhaps some incandescent beam artifacts weren't noticed before because of the prominent LED beam artifacts?


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## rgp4544

I tested the incandescent beam outdoors by pointing it at a barn about 110 yards away. Prior to disassembly, I made index marks on the lamp assembly as well as the the head. There was no need to index the LED ring because the LED ring was already marked with the red dot that Surefire placed on it.

Apparently the sanded LED's accentuated an outer ring in the incandescent beam that I'd never noticed before even though I've used A2's ever since they came on the market and have two red ones and two white ones. Comparing to the 3 unmodified A2's, when specifically looking for such a ring in the spillbeam, I noticed for the first time ever that they also have a similar ring but it is not as noticable, whereas the sanded red one now displays a noticable ring out to about 20 yards.

Nevertheless I've decided to keep the sanded red A2 as is because it now has a better flood than any red light I've ever tried. Once dark adapted though even the sanded red LED's still produce too much light for cockpit use at night and it is still going to be necessary to filter the red light through fingers when reading charts and approach plates etc.

It would be nice to eliminate any outer ring on the incandescent beam though because these lights are frequently used for inspecting surfaces that are painted with glossy white polyurethane.

Also...what methods do people use to be able to identify which color A2 they're grabbing without turning it on? I regularly paint a colored dot on mine but the dots can't be seen in the dark and the paint rubs off after a few weeks. Based on photos it looks as though the glow in the dark modification using glow powder at the base of the LED's might be too bright.

Richard


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## FiftyCalAl

excellent thread:goodjob:


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## Blindasabat

rgp4544 said:


> Also...what methods do people use to be able to identify which color A2 they're grabbing without turning it on?
> Richard


Do you use lanyards on your A2's? If so, different lanyards can be used to ID different color LEDs. Or just putting a short lanyard or band on one color if you don't use lanyards or take the lanyard ring off one and not the other. Even a rubber band around the body will work because your fingers can feel the rubber easily.


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## Ledacholic Anonymous

Great! I have just received my A2 yesterday and there is alot to learn.

Could anyone tell me any compatitble light bulb for the A2. $20US seems to be alot for a bulb.

Is it possible to replace the LED in the future when better one alternative are available?

Is it possible to replace the incandescent with a luxeon?


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## Ledacholic Anonymous

I have found a step to step guide on replacing the 3 LEDs.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/printthread.php?t=92993


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## TwoGuns

Awesome thread, thanks for the info!

Anyone have any info on getting different LED rings? It'd be nice to be able to switch LED colors without having to kill my wallet.

edit: just saw the post above me <img>


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## Diabolus

Any idea how to get the pics working?


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## leukos

Diabolus said:


> Any idea how to get the pics working?


 
It has been hit too many times and reached its data transfer limit. Check again later. Sorry.


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## Diabolus

Thx Leukos


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## Chrontius

New problem with the clip removal - I looped a spare Surefire lanyard around it, and tugged. Nada. So I looped it around my foot and pulled on the handle. That hurt. So I stepped on it with my heel, and looped my hand around the top of the light and pulled with all my might... and have nothing to show for it but a dented hand.

Seriously, what the heck. Are they loctite-ing these guys? Serial number is in the 67000s.


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## Rossymeister

Chrontius said:


> New problem with the clip removal - I looped a spare Surefire lanyard around it, and tugged. Nada. So I looped it around my foot and pulled on the handle. That hurt. So I stepped on it with my heel, and looped my hand around the top of the light and pulled with all my might... and have nothing to show for it but a dented hand.
> 
> Seriously, what the heck. Are they loctite-ing these guys? Serial number is in the 67000s.



It takes *alot* of force to get it off. I suggest tugging harder.

Regards

Aaron


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## Rossymeister

Also, make sure to remove the O-Ring.

Regards

Aaron


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## leukos

~Deicide~ said:


> Also, make sure to remove the O-Ring.


 
+1


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## Sgt. LED

I'll get it off for ya.


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## DM51

LOL!


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## LA OZ

Sgt. LED said:


> I'll get it off for ya.



Is that you in the avatar? If so, I believe you could.


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## mwaldron

I noticed in my latest A2 there is a small plastic "wedge" under the clip, you should be able to see it by looking down the clip from the bezel end after you have removed the bezel and o-ring. 

That makes a very effective stop and must be removed with a small knife blade prior to removing the clip. I hadn't seen it used before but there is a spot for it in all 3 of my A2's as my L2.


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## Sgt. LED

Yeah that's me.  The arm's are a bit bigger these days.
I've been known to lift weights in my spare time.

Try punching out the plasty tab under the clip to make it easier for you, push it out towards the head.


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## Chrontius

Would a toothpick work, or do I need a screwdriver or some other kind of special tool?


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## Sgt. LED

A sturdy toothpick will suffice. It's more finish friendly too!


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## Chrontius

Okay, it's official - mine's too damn tight. I just broke my lanyard and the lanyard end clip gave way before the clip did. :thumbsdow

Edit: just took a hammer to the little *******, and the clip _still_ hasn't budged a hair. The only results are one new ding, a nearly hammered thumb, a bruised palm, and holes in my rags. After, of course, breaking the suggested toothpick.

What gives?


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## Sgt. LED

Dang! Never heard of one on that tight. You think Surefire drove the clip on with a mallet? Someone should of noticed how hard it was to put on.

It's Dremel time.


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## Chrontius

No, I take it back - it moved a hair. Now I can't get the head back on all the way. x_x


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## Sgt. LED

Well you can't quit now! Hammer some more.
Great now I got the "Hammer Time" song stuck in my head!


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## Chrontius

Crap, that song is _contagious!_ 

But no, it's 12:36 AM it's definitely *not* hammer time. I have work in the morning. 

I just tried looping the clip around a belt and standing on the belt... which is making ominous creaking sounds.

But those were (after switching to a *much* sturdier belt) followed by a sudden jerk and rewarding pop. My little plastic wedge thing was held in by some sprue that was thickening things up where they shouldn't have been.

Edit: oh cripes, I _hope_ that was sprue.

Edit: There's still some fused to the HA3.


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## depusm12

leukos said:


> *Surefire A2 Aviator*
> 
> There are a lot of questions about DIY improvements for this light :hairpull: , so I am attempting to put most of it in one thread, with pictures and links, so it can serve as an easy reference guide for questions. Please feel free to add links or post suggestions.
> 
> *11. Use with rechargeables?*
> I have cycled rechargeables through my green A2 150+ times now with no issues, but caution should be taken since these are unprotected Li-ions. Currently there are no protected Li-ions that fit in the A2, only unprotected. CPFers have asked if the cell AW sells for the L2 will work in the A2. I have not tried it, but based on my limited knowledge of the circuitry in the A2, it appears to be a buck circuit that pushes the voltage down to 4.5 volts or so to power the lamp. One Li-ion does not have enough voltage to power the incandescent lamp, so yes, you must use two Li-ions for it to work. Again, this is at your own risk and also probably voids SF's warranty. http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=87768&page=1&pp=30 see also: http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=95230
> Enjoy!


 
I'll have to disagree with that, I have 4 of Tenergy's protected (yellow label) 3.0 volt 750 mAh Li-Ion's that work with my A2 no fuss no muss.


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## Sgt. LED

AH the clip she has given up! Congrats

That was quite a fight but you showed it who was boss! Maybe tomorrow you can post a victory pic!


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## leukos

depusm12 said:


> I'll have to disagree with that, I have 4 of Tenergy's protected (yellow label) 3.0 volt 750 mAh Li-Ion's that work with my A2 no fuss no muss.


 
Good to know. Do the cells slide right in or are they snug? How much runtime do you get with that setup?


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## depusm12

leukos said:


> Good to know. Do the cells slide right in or are they snug? How much runtime do you get with that setup?


 
_*They slide right in and fit fairly loose. Haven't actually done a runtime test with them yet.*_


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## Chrontius

Sgt. LED said:


> AH the clip she has given up! Congrats
> 
> That was quite a fight but you showed it who was boss! Maybe tomorrow you can post a victory pic!



Glad I preemptively ordered a new clip. The hammering (?) caused one of the little reverse-bent loops to pop free as I was noodling with my newly tightened clip, so I got to do another clip fix last night.


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## Sgt. LED

This is my favorite light to keep upgrading and modding!

Anyone got any new ideas for it?


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## mwaldron

I'm still waiting on Onion Rings, and hoping for a new run of Strion sockets. I almost wish I had not been able to get 1 Strion kit because now I know how good all of my A2's SHOULD be.

On the other hand, Mark over at LF is thinking about another run of unfrosted A2 bulbs, I have not seen one personally but I've decided to order a few if the run happens and maybe that will be acceptable colsolation until more Strion sockets are made.


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## Sgt. LED

I have the Strion Kit and it is great, but I have no LF A2 bulbs.

I have heard they are very similar in output and if the unfrosted run happens I will have to get 1 so I can compare them for myself. I didn't want a frosted bulb in an OP reflector, I want the little better throw over the little cleaner beam. 


Koala is down right now and I hope he gets better soon. I would love the Onion ring but since I did glue some trits behind the DS led's in my ring it makes the choice to swap it out tougher! With the onion ring the led's sit flush with the plug in socket so I can't use the trits to make em' glow at night. 

Let's see what else can be done.......


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## mwaldron

Sgt. LED said:


> With the onion ring the led's sit flush with the plug in socket so I can't use the trits to make em' glow at night.
> 
> Let's see what else can be done.......



You'll probably be able to use some of the long-life glow-powder epoxy/paint though. You can make that quite thin. Time will tell though!


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## leukos

I would like to see another run of A2 strion kits as well. The strion kit + aviatrix + glowpowder + rechargeables is a pretty sweet set up. :devil:

Here are four aviatrixed A2's: amber, red, white, and green.


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## Bubba66

I tightened my pocket clip on my C2
I know I would have messed up my anodizing with your help
Thanks 
Bubba


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## type-x

Hi there just a little tip I found by mistake regarding the removal of the clip. For some reason after wiggling the clip sideways (from left to right) I noticed it started to become loose eventually the whole clip just slides out . Oh yeah not a scratch on the anodizing during this process. Only hard part is getting it all back together had to get a flat head screwdriver and hammered it back in, hope this helps.


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## Mr. kydex

(Old thread I know)

Making the LED's glow with glow paint looks awesome! However, if I do this, will it void the warranty on the LED ring?


Thanks!


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## leukos

Probably any modifications to this light would technically void the warranty. I think the mod is worth it, but I have five A2's, so I'm not worried about warranties.


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## [email protected]

leukos said:


> Probably any modifications to this light would technically void the warranty. I think the mod is worth it, but I have five A2's, so I'm not worried about warranties.



You'll find Surefire's idea of warranty is rather board :twothumbs


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## Mr. kydex

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies! 

Well, I went ahead and put a bit of ultra blue glow paint behind the LED's before I even read the replies! :naughty: I'm waiting for it to dry now. I figured glow paint could probably be removed, unlike glow epoxy. This ought to look pretty awesome when it's done! lovecpf


BTW, If something happened to the LED ring and Surefire did NOT offer to replace it, How would I get another? Just pay to have them replace it? (Sorry if this is a newb question!) Thanks again!


----------



## Mr. kydex

Well, I put my A2 back together and the glowing LED's look nice! I probably could have used a bit more paint, but I didn't want to over do it. Still looks cool though! 

Thanks again to leukos for making this thread! :thumbsup:


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## [email protected]

You can get an onion ring as a spare for your original ring.


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## degsdg

This is a great thread regarding info on the a2. Does anyone know why I cant view photos in the beginning? Are they linked elsewhere? One I wanted to see was the o-ring as a lanyard. I know it sounds self explanatory, but what daimeter or thickness is suggested?
thanks in advance


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## ANDREAS FERRARI

degsdg-this thread was started nearly 5 years ago.The links to the pics are long gone.Maybe leukos still has the photos somewhere????


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## leukos

Yeah, thread rot. I still have the photos, I just need to move them to another host site. Check back in a few days.


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## Monocrom

leukos said:


> Yeah, thread rot. I still have the photos, I just need to move them to another host site. Check back in a few days.


 
SWEET!

My first A2 arrived in the mail just awhile ago. lovecpf


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## DM51

leukos said:


> Yeah, thread rot.


As experienced members will know, the term "thread rot" can be applied to two distinctly different phenomena. 

The first is where a CPF thread suffers from links going awry or changing in some way, such as where old photos no longer appear. That is what has happened here.

The second (happily not applicable in this case) is where an inappropriate lubricant has been applied to the threads in a light. The results are sometimes appalling, and in many cases too distressing to illustrate.


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## leukos

Done. Photos should be viewable to everyone now.


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## Monocrom

leukos said:


> Done. Photos should be viewable to everyone now.


 
Nice! :thanks:


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## sween1911

This is a great thread. The A2 is such a great, versatile light. Makes me regret not picking up the one I saw at Cabela's in their "Smash and Dent / Open Box" area a few years ago. I picked it up, pushed the button, and only the green led's fired up. I figured it was broken, besides, no one wants green LED's. Doh! I know you guys have different LED rings on here, and you can always change the incan bulb.


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## Machete God

Thanks to the OP for this very useful thread, and re-upping the pics! 

I took a speck out my anodizing with a screwdriver trying to remove the lanyard ring, and for nothing. The lanyard ring wasn't even bothering me before I came across a couple of threads describing how to remove it and how it (the ring) bothered those who had succesfully removed it :shakehead This is a bad forum 

So I did a more thorough search and came to this thread. I finally used a pin and poked apart my lanyard ring after studying the picture of the disassembled one in the OP.

Figured it wouldn't hurt to give it a bump since I didn't see it in Daniel_sk's compilation of A2 Aviator information [EDIT: sorry, it's there, I didn't see it ]. Might be of help to an Aviator newbie or two


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## Daniel_sk

Machete God said:


> Figured it wouldn't hurt to give it a bump since I didn't see it in Daniel_sk's compilation of A2 Aviator information or stickied anywhere. Might be of help to an Aviator newbie or two


It's there, under "Surefire A2 Technical and Modding Information" . Although the last update of my A2 index was 2 years ago.


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## Machete God

Daniel_sk said:


> It's there, under "Surefire A2 Technical and Modding Information" . Although the last update of my A2 index was 2 years ago.



Ah, my apologies. I scanned through and didn't see the original thread title there! I will correct my original post  [EDIT: Ok, it IS there, with the original thread title to boot! My reading comprehension must be right down the drain ]


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## Roood

I know this is an old thread. But I just got a C2 LED Centurion (80 lumens). How do I remove the clip and tune it up or what? Any know the size of the o-rings used on this light?

Please help. 

TIA -


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## john-paul

Roood said:


> I know this is an old thread. But I just got a C2 LED Centurion (80 lumens). How do I remove the clip and tune it up or what? Any know the size of the o-rings used on this light?
> 
> Please help.
> 
> TIA -



Just unscrew the head, take off the o-ring and tap out the pocket clip if you don't want it on. The other way to remove it is to slip your lanyard through and pull it off. As far as O-rings- if it's new, you don't need any extra. If one does happen to break or stretch, just contact Surefire and you'll have one in no time, for free.


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## Roood

john-paul said:


> Just unscrew the head, take off the o-ring and tap out the pocket clip if you don't want it on. The other way to remove it is to slip your lanyard through and pull it off. As far as O-rings- if it's new, you don't need any extra. If one does happen to break or stretch, just contact Surefire and you'll have one in no time, for free.



Hi John, Thank You for the reply. I'm currently located in Singapore right now for contractual work. I doubt SF would send an o-ring here for free. But there are tons of stores here selling really good o-rings, that I get the size of the o-rings used just in case. Also I want to remove the rubber grip on it, whats the best way to do it and any suggestions on what to put in its place?

TIA

- Rod

TIA


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## briteflite

Just got a new A2 this week and one of the yellow/green LEDs is not lighting up. Tried gently tightening the hold-down screws for the LED ring, but no joy. Is there something else i can try, or is it time to talk to Surefire about warranty repair? Thanks for gathering up all the great info in this thread.

Update: Surefire said send it back to them.


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## Tsz Kin

Woo ！ Nice


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## briteflite

briteflite said:


> Just got a new A2 this week and one of the yellow/green LEDs is not lighting up. Tried gently tightening the hold-down screws for the LED ring, but no joy. Is there something else i can try, or is it time to talk to Surefire about warranty repair? Thanks for gathering up all the great info in this thread.
> 
> Update: Surefire said send it back to them.


 
Got the A2 back from Surefire this week ... but the LED's are now bright green, not the dimmer yellow/green. Strange ...


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## novice

Briteflite,
Surefire would have been depleting their A2 spare parts inventory ever since the model was discontinued, and it’s possible that they never even had any spare yellow/green leds sitting around – that they used them all up on the ‘rings’. They do, however, have green leds that they are using for one of the versions of the A2L. That’s probably why you got the green led replacements.


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## ebow86

novice said:


> Briteflite,
> Surefire would have been depleting their A2 spare parts inventory ever since the model was discontinued, and it’s possible that they never even had any spare yellow/green leds sitting around – that they used them all up on the ‘rings’. They do, however, have green leds that they are using for one of the versions of the A2L. That’s probably why you got the green led replacements.


 

The LED's that the A2L uses are vastly different than the Incan A2's, so that's not what happened. Either they didn't have anymore yellow/green led's left over, or someone at surefire made a mistake and installed green led's. If not happy I would contact surefire and explain the situation. This isn't the first time I've heard of someone sending something into surefire and recieving something completly different back in return, example, I've heard of people sending in HA tailcap's and getting typeII black one's in return:shrug:


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## archimedes

briteflite said:


> Got the A2 back from Surefire this week ... but the LED's are now bright green, not the dimmer yellow/green. Strange ...


 


novice said:


> Briteflite,
> Surefire would have been depleting their A2 spare parts inventory ever since the model was discontinued, and it’s possible that they never even had any spare yellow/green leds sitting around – that they used them all up on the ‘rings’. They do, however, have green leds that they are using for one of the versions of the A2L. That’s probably why you got the green led replacements.



oo: - I think the Kroma Milspec still uses YG LEDs and has not (yet?) been discontinued, but it is certainly possible that SF may no longer have A2-YG rings left for spare parts and repairs.

It may certainly be worth recontacting SF Customer Service to inquire, but if you still have no luck, you could always ask *calipsoii *to build a ring for you with yellow-green LEDs. According to his thread here on CPF, the Y/G is $22 + $7 shipping, and is in stock (at least as of the time of his last update).

Good luck!


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## briteflite

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I've got two of calipsoii'srings sitting on my desk so the green led's are gonna be replaced real soon with warm white and a red ring is going to replace the yellow/green.


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## Chrontius

One of the helmet lights (D model?) also uses Y/G LEDs and is a current model.


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## tlyon1022

Really nice thread about the A2. I absolutely love mine, but I'm selling it to head over to an A2L. 
If anyone is interested here's the sales link:

*[pointer link removed - DM51]*


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## aaronu

Just curious -- does anyone know of a source for LED replacements for the incandescent bulb?


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## ebow86

aaronu said:


> Just curious -- does anyone know of a source for LED replacements for the incandescent bulb?


 
There are no led replacements for the A2. I don't want this to come across the wrong way, but for the life of me I can not understand why so many keep asking for an led replacement for the A2. Here you have a fully regulated, soft starting, 100 CRI incandescent light that puts out one of the most beautifully white beams you will ever see on any flashlight, yet we still see this question coming up time and time again. I know lights and led technology have come a long way since the A2's days, but I feel it puts out one of the most gorgeously white beams in existence. If one can't appreciate what the A2 does so well and want to upgrade it to an led, then the A2 is not for you.


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## KiwiMark

ebow86 said:


> There are no led replacements for the A2. I don't want this to come across the wrong way, but for the life of me I can not understand why so many keep asking for an led replacement for the A2.


 
I'm with you, I bought mine BECAUSE it is a regulated incan - great in the greens & browns of the woods and for the size it has impressive throw. I'm going camping in a week and a half and I'll take several lights - including my A2.


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## syncytial

The A2 is revered for its particular qualities, and rightly so. It is a truly unique design.

To see what's needed to convert (!) an A2 to LED see this thread. You'll gain insight into why the change is non-trivial, although it doesn't go into the horrors of extracting the driver module. Unless you're quite skilled, if you want an A2 with an LED as the primary light engine, I'd suggest buying an A2L. Don't expect to buy a ready-to-go solution you can just drop in to an incan A2.


- Syncytial.


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## jellydonut

I agree. A better option is to buy an LX2 or something. Same size, same two-stage, made for LED.


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## ebow86

Wanting to put an LED inside the A2 is kind of like buying a mona lisa painting and wanting to paint a mustache on her.


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## calipsoii

I dunno, I think it'd be kind of cool to have an LED dropin to be honest, so long as it kept the LVR intact. 

Being able to drop a bulb in when you're feeling like some crisp white incan light, or taking it out and dropping an LED in when you want some extended runtimes would be pretty neat. Plus you could have dropins with all kinds of emitters on them, maybe a cool or a neutral white XP-G, or even better, a Nichia 119 H1?

My 6P's see all different kinds of dropins depending on how I'm feeling. Sometimes a P60 bulb does the trick and other times I want a Kerberos Quad. Lego'ing is fun and I'm going to miss it when SF finishes their conversion to the sealed head line-up.

Before you call me a heathen though, I did say a dropin solution that leaves the existing LVR intact - I've no desire to permanently convert my incan A2's to A2L's.


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## ebow86

calipsoii said:


> I dunno, I think it'd be kind of cool to have an LED dropin to be honest, so long as it kept the LVR intact.
> 
> Being able to drop a bulb in when you're feeling like some crisp white incan light, or taking it out and dropping an LED in when you want some extended runtimes would be pretty neat. Plus you could have dropins with all kinds of emitters on them, maybe a cool or a neutral white XP-G, or even better, a Nichia 119 H1?
> 
> My 6P's see all different kinds of dropins depending on how I'm feeling. Sometimes a P60 bulb does the trick and other times I want a Kerberos Quad. Lego'ing is fun and I'm going to miss it when SF finishes their conversion to the sealed head line-up.
> 
> Before you call me a heathen though, I did say a dropin solution that leaves the existing LVR intact - I've no desire to permanently convert my incan A2's to A2L's.



The A2 already has a set of LED's if you want extended runtime. The incandescent lamp combined with the regulation and soft start is what makes the A2 unique and so wonderful, but once the bulb is swapped out and replaced with an LED you are essentially turning a very unique and wonderful flashlight in something that is just plain and ordinary.


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## Monocrom

ebow86 said:


> Wanting to put an LED inside the A2 is kind of like buying a mona lisa painting and wanting to paint a mustache on her.


 
Like buying a 1969 Chevy Camaro and swapping out the engine for a smaller one . . . along with an electric engine so you can turn it into a fuel efficient, moden-day hybrid. :sick2:


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## jellydonut

calipsoii said:


> I dunno, I think it'd be kind of cool to have an LED dropin to be honest, so long as it kept the LVR intact.
> 
> Being able to drop a bulb in when you're feeling like some crisp white incan light, or taking it out and dropping an LED in when you want some extended runtimes would be pretty neat. Plus you could have dropins with all kinds of emitters on them, maybe a cool or a neutral white XP-G, or even better, a Nichia 119 H1?
> 
> My 6P's see all different kinds of dropins depending on how I'm feeling. Sometimes a P60 bulb does the trick and other times I want a Kerberos Quad. Lego'ing is fun and I'm going to miss it when SF finishes their conversion to the sealed head line-up.
> 
> Before you call me a heathen though, I did say a dropin solution that leaves the existing LVR intact - I've no desire to permanently convert my incan A2's to A2L's.


 
Keeping the LVR would result in the LED light flickering and giving you headaches. You can't have both worlds without modifying extensively (ie designing a new LVR that can change between pulsing and constant power - expertise, time, $$$).


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## calipsoii

jellydonut said:


> Keeping the LVR would result in the LED light flickering and giving you headaches. You can't have both worlds without modifying extensively (ie designing a new LVR that can change between pulsing and constant power - expertise, time, $$$).


 
Oh trust me jellydonut, I know full well how the A2 LVR works. It took me 4 weeks and far too much money to make it play nice with the microcontroller I stuck on my A2 ring. Might not have much expertise, but I have some time, a little money and stubbornness in spades.

Plus, I didn't say it'd be easy, I said I thought it'd be cool.


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## Chrontius

I dunno, an A2 mini-tower that had a buffering capacitor to deal with the PWM cycling would be a fun hack.


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## RedBaron

This may be addressed somewhere else, but is there such a thing as a clicky for the A2? I ask because this past weekend I was using my A2 and needed to transition from momentary to full on. I let go of the door I was holding with the left hand to two hand the tailcap and dropped the A2 when the door swung back and smacked me. I finally found the light (in the dark) in a pile of, well, something soft and mushy.  Hence my request. I'm glad they're water and other stuff proof. Thanks.


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## fresh eddie fresh

sween1911 said:


> This is a great thread. The A2 is such a great, versatile light. Makes me regret not picking up the one I saw at Cabela's in their "Smash and Dent / Open Box" area a few years ago. I picked it up, pushed the button, and only the green led's fired up. I figured it was broken, besides, no one wants green LED's. Doh! I know you guys have different LED rings on here, and you can always change the incan bulb.



It could have been the batteries. You always see A2s on Ebay where the listing says "Main beam not working" and often when you get the light it is just that the batteries have enough power to light up the LEDs, but not enough to light up the bulb. 

I have a mess of A2s so I have a green one. It is a fun color to mess around with. The only color I am not really interested in is the blue, but everyone likes different things.


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## Cypher_Aod

Hey guys, looking for a bit of advice;

i was turning my A2 out of lock-out and back to normal, and gave the button a quick forward twist to check that everything's all working when it flashed "on" too early and then it started grinding as i turned the tailcap. needless to say, i quickly backed the tailcap off and looked inside, and one of the three metal springs that controls the high/low beam had broken off and was on the threads, which explained the intermittent flashing and grinding.

What should i do? it's a very very old A2 (Serial Number A07076, non-crenellated bezel, only 2 patent numbers) and it's also in almost perfect condition. Will Surefire replace the tailcap? Hopefully it won't be a problem despite me being in the UK.

<edit> Oh excellent, they have a EU warranty-number, i'll give that a call tomorrow.


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## archimedes

SureFire customer service is truly excellent, but do be aware that they repair/replace with regard to function (not vintage collectability). If the latter issue is at all important to you, I suggest being very clear about what your options might be in the situation.

Cheers!


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## Cypher_Aod

I'm sure they'll be able to replace the standard L-series tailcap with a new one...


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## Cypher_Aod

Update; I got a reply from SureFire asking for my Address and phone number so they can send me a new L-series tailcap in the mail. Thanks Surefire!


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## 22hornet

Monocrom said:


> Like buying a 1969 Chevy Camaro and swapping out the engine for a smaller one . . . along with an electric engine so you can turn it into a fuel efficient, moden-day hybrid. :sick2:


Exactly! Well said, Monocrom.
If you want a "modern" led-Surefire to compare with the A2, I would suggest the E2L or E2LAA, which are quite similar in output when compared to an A2 (3 lumens on low and 60/80 lumens on high and reasonable throw because of the optics).

KInd regards,
Joris


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## Acid87

I'm currently using a strion bulb with a Fivemega bi pin adaptor. Any suggests on other lamps I could use? Is the stock bulb the MN01? Or am I getting confused?

Thanks in advance.


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## Cypher_Aod

the stock bulb is the MA02 

As far as i know, there are three options for the A2; the stock MA02, Lumensfactory HO-A2 and the Strion's in Fivemega's adapter


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## Acid87

Cypher_Aod said:


> the stock bulb is the MA02
> 
> As far as i know, there are three options for the A2; the stock MA02, Lumensfactory HO-A2 and the Strion's in Fivemega's adapter



I realised after my post the MN01 is for the bigger lights. Might pick up an MA02. Has anyone got a couple of these and have a preference?


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## archimedes

Acid87 said:


> I realised after my post the MN01 is for the bigger lights. Might pick up an MA02. Has anyone got a couple of these and have a preference?



I have all three common lamps used in A2's (SF MA02, LF HO-A2, FM with Strion), and they all work pretty well. To my eyes, the LumensFactory HO-A2 and FM/Strion setup appear brighter and whiter than the stock SureFire lamp. The main advantage with the *fivemega *is that the Strion bulbs are much cheaper than either LF or SF lamps. Also, I think that you may be able to use Stinger bulbs (longer lasting?) with the FM bi-pin socket, as well, although I have not tried this myself.


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## Acid87

archimedes said:


> Also, I think that you may be able to use Stinger bulbs (longer lasting?) with the FM bi-pin socket, as well, although I have not tried this myself.



Like it I'll be the crash test dummy. Anyone tried this?


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## Machete God

Acid87 said:


> Like it I'll be the crash test dummy. Anyone tried this?



You won't be swimming in unknown waters, FM himself said that you can use Stinger bulbs for longer life in his sales thread:



fivemega said:


> You can also use Stinger low cost bulbs for longer bulb life.


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## Acid87

Machete God said:


> You won't be swimming in unknown waters, FM himself said that you can use Stinger bulbs for longer life in his sales thread:



Good to know. Might have a wee nosey. Cheers.


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## LE6920

Informative thread thanks!


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## Cypher_Aod

I was going to wait until my replacement tailcap had arrived but i might as well ask now;

On my A2, the button has to be pressed _really_ hard to engage the incandescent beam, so hard that i actually struggle to keep the incan on without flickering for more than about 30 seconds.
Is this because the tailcap is really old and the little metal prongs inside which engage the high-mode have deformed, or is this common of most A2s?


----------



## Monocrom

Not common on mine.


----------



## Acid87

Cypher_Aod said:


> I was going to wait until my replacement tailcap had arrived but i might as well ask now;
> 
> On my A2, the button has to be pressed really hard to engage the incandescent beam, so hard that i actually struggle to keep the incan on without flickering for more than about 30 seconds.
> Is this because the tailcap is really old and the little metal prongs inside which engage the high-mode have deformed, or is this common of most A2s?



Without being a smart arse. Have you tried twisting it?


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## Cypher_Aod

Yes of course, twisting it works fine, but i do prefer momentary unless i know i'll need the light on for a while.

That said, i do need to twist it _all_ the way for it to activate, like it cannot be screwed in further at all. I think that at some point in it's life someone's forced the twistie as far as it'll go and damaged the prongs. That would explain why one of them broke and why, from what i can see, one of the remaining two is bent.

I'll report back when the replacement tailcap arrives


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## Acid87

Cypher_Aod said:


> Yes of course, twisting it works fine, but i do prefer momentary unless i know i'll need the light on for a while.
> 
> That said, i do need to twist it all the way for it to activate, like it cannot be screwed in further at all. I think that at some point in it's life someone's forced the twistie as far as it'll go and damaged the prongs. That would explain why one of them broke and why, from what i can see, one of the remaining two is bent.
> 
> I'll report back when the replacement tailcap arrives



The twisting it was more to make sure there was connection. Not that I'm an expert but was comparing to my own A2.
Glad you worked it out.


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## Cypher_Aod

The replacement A2 tailcap arrived from SureFire the other day, Thanks so much to SureFire's outstanding customer service!

The new tailcap is the same colour anodizing as my very-recent (one of the last few batches before they ceased production) E2E, which makes the anodizing on my already "patchwork" A2 even more unmatched... I love it!

The new Tailcap behaves quite differently to the old, for one thing it seems that the witness-mark has changed sides at some point in time because when the marks are lined up, the gentlest-touch will activate the LEDs. i've been keeping the mark backed off by a half-turn which seems to be the same level as the old tailcap.

Activating the Incan-beam is now much easier, i don't have to squeeze with all might might to get it to stay on.

In honour of my A2 now being perfect, I've adorned it with a Tritium-locator fob, but this one's plastic-encased so that it doesn't damage the beautiful anodizing


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## Machete God

Cypher_Aod said:


> The replacement A2 tailcap arrived from SureFire the other day, Thanks so much to SureFire's outstanding customer service!
> 
> The new tailcap is the same colour anodizing as my very-recent (one of the last few batches before they ceased production) E2E, which makes the anodizing on my already "patchwork" A2 even more unmatched... I love it!
> 
> The new Tailcap behaves quite differently to the old, for one thing it seems that the witness-mark has changed sides at some point in time because when the marks are lined up, the gentlest-touch will activate the LEDs. i've been keeping the mark backed off by a half-turn which seems to be the same level as the old tailcap.
> 
> Activating the Incan-beam is now much easier, i don't have to squeeze with all might might to get it to stay on.
> 
> In honour of my A2 now being perfect, I've adorned it with a Tritium-locator fob, but this one's plastic-encased so that it doesn't damage the beautiful anodizing


The one thing that would make your post better is a picture of this A2! Do it now!  

I've found the witness marks on my A2s to be inconsistent from one to the other, but that might be due to parts getting swapped around. None of mine were bought new so some of them may have possibly undergone part transplants with previous owners. So you may be right that the marks have changed positions, or it may be that the spring fingers or switch assembly has been changed.

Since you now have a replacement tailcap, are you going to try repairing the misbehaving one?


----------

