# *new* Olight S1 - XM-L2, (R)CR123



## kj2

"Olight S1, world smallest side switch flashlight, employing advanced PVD technology on the stainless steel bezel, innovative optical lens making the head shorter, soft silicon button"


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## Kilovolt

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Interesting, thanks for sharing.

Type of battery?


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## BLUE LED

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

It looks small. CR2 or CR123A ?


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

No feedback yet on the battery.


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## snowlover91

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

I wonder what the PVD technology is? The lens looks interesting, I'm wondering what the beam will look like as a result. Super small light and looking forward to seeing more specs about it.


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## Kilovolt

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



kj2 said:


> No feedback yet on the battery.



Hopefully not a CR2 ... :shakehead


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Nice, thanks Kj2!
Looks like TIR?


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## rickyro

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Look very interesting. What LED are they using?


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



WarRaven said:


> Nice, thanks Kj2!
> Looks like TIR?


Optical lens, so TIR indeed


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



rickyro said:


> Look very interesting. What LED are they using?


Question send. Hope to receive answer soon


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## NorthernStar

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Great find!

Hope to have more info about it soon.I wonder what sideswitch they are using, if it´s the recessed or the protruding button like the one on the old baton series?:thinking: The text says that it has a soft silicon button, but i can not see if it is recessed or not. I really hope it´s a recessed button like the ones on the S10R,S15R,S20R and the S30R series.


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



snowlover91 said:


> I wonder what the PVD technology is?


Found this on PVD technology:
*What is PVD coating?*

PVD is the abbreviation of Physical Vapor Deposition. It is a process carried out in high vacuum at temperatures between 150 and 500 °C.

*How does the PVD process work?*

The high-purity, solid coating material (metals such as titanium, chromium and aluminium) is either evaporated by heat or by bombardment with ions (sputtering). At the same time, a reactive gas (e.g. nitrogen or a gas containing carbon) is introduced; it forms a compound with the metal vapour and is deposited on the tools or components as a thin, highly adherent coating. In order to obtain a uniform coating thickness, the parts are rotated at uniform speed about several axes.
The properties of the coating (such as hardness, structure, chemical and temperature resistance, adhesion) can be accurately controlled.


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## beaconterraone

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Any idea on US availability timeframe? Is this the successor to the i1?


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



beaconterraone said:


> Any idea on US availability timeframe? Is this the successor to the i1?



Nothing on that ATM. Specs are also unknown at this point.


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## Ryp

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

It probably takes a CR123A. Pretty much looks like a shorter S10.


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## ForrestChump

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



kj2 said:


> Nothing on that ATM. Specs are also unknown at this point.



*August / September per OL.*

Didn't ask but looks like CR123 to me. The shortened optic makes it / appear / smaller IMO.

I don't see a mainstream OEM venturing into CR2. 99.9% Sure it's CR123.


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## Taz80

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Battery Junction has the new S11 on their site, it looks like this one. Specs. say CR123, XM-L2 max 500 lumens. The length is 2.4" the S10 is 2.77". This looks interesting, to bad its cool white.


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## AdamDaze

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

PVD tech is *hardly* new or advanced. It's been used on many a flashlight body / bezel. It's an alternative to anodising. Just a coating technique.

This is *barely* smaller than the nitecore EC11 which comes double the lumen in turbo on the same(ish) LED, a red led for night vis, a quicker UI, and what looks like a better heatsink/fin setup (if marginal). 

It does however claim a throw of 110 meters. Nightcore claim 190m on the EC11 at double the lumens. Checks out. But honestly, it's not really useable at that distance with the flood lighting up the entire foreground. Not unless you're on a farm on a moonless night.

But hey, at least it's 5mm shorter.


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## Ryp

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



AdamDaze said:


> PVD tech is *hardly* new or advanced. It's been used on many a flashlight body / bezel. It's an alternative to anodising. Just a coating technique.
> 
> This is *barely* smaller than the nitecore EC11 which comes double the lumen in turbo on the same(ish) LED, a red led for night vis, a quicker UI, and what looks like a better heatsink/fin setup (if marginal).
> 
> It does however claim a throw of 110 meters. Nightcore claim 190m on the EC11 at double the lumens. Checks out. But honestly, it's not really useable at that distance with the flood lighting up the entire foreground. Not unless you're on a farm on a moonless night.
> 
> But hey, at least it's 5mm shorter.



It's 14mm shorter than the EC11.


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## saypat

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

very nice, better than the S10. I think this is the S11. 5 modes! So tiny.


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## Overclocker

*Re: *new* Olight S1*







it is the S11. pls edit thread title

PS i could already predict that this would be a very successful model


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Thread title adjusted. Really like that blue bezel


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## don.gwapo

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

So tiny. I'll wait for the 18650 version, maybe called S21R!


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## BowHunter1

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



kj2 said:


> Thread title adjusted. Really like that blue bezel



Agreed....the blue is definitely eye catching!


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## Badbeams3

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



Overclocker said:


> it is the S11. pls edit thread title
> 
> PS i could already predict that this would be a very successful model



1500 mah battery? Did not know there was a 123 that powerful...


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## NorthernStar

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



Badbeams3 said:


> 1500 mah battery? Did not know there was a 123 that powerful...



I thought about it to. If one looks at the first picture and read the specs it says S11 and has an ordinary CR123A battery(non rechargeable). In the second picture it says S11R and in the specs it says 1500 mah 3,7V battery RCR123.

Could there be two versions of this light, both S11 and S11R? One standard version and one that comes with a charging dock?:thinking: 
Btw, i can read from the text that the light has a low profile sideswitch, so that means that is must be recessed. That blue bezel is really looking good. 

I hope that there will be a 18650 version of this light as well.


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## Badbeams3

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Already taking pre-orders for it.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/olight-s11.html


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## Tixx

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



Badbeams3 said:


> 1500 mah battery? Did not know there was a 123 that powerful...



Yeah, saw that too! No way that exists.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Cr123 is 1500, RCR 123 is around 700 mah, typo missing a OR in between, no biggie.
Cw emitter listed, boosted output over S10 or S10r.


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## radiopej

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

It's so cute.


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## Ryp

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

I hope they offer a non-rechargeable S11 so it's even shorter.


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## NorthernStar

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Ryp said:


> I hope they offer a non-rechargeable S11 so it's even shorter.



If one look at the top picture of the S11 light, it has the ordinary(non-rechargeable ) tailmagnet. Hopefully Olight will release both a S11 non-rechargeable and a S11R rechargeable version.


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Ryp said:


> I hope they offer a non-rechargeable S11 so it's even shorter.





NorthernStar said:


> If one look at the top picture of the S11 light, it has the ordinary(non-rechargeable ) tailmagnet. Hopefully Olight will release both a S11 non-rechargeable and a S11R rechargeable version.


Text talks about the S11, where at the specs chart, it's called the S11R. Think there will be two versions. Adjusted the thread title.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Wonder if this model is the fix for my S10Rs?
I could handle upgrading via exchange. ☺


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## Overclocker

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



kj2 said:


> Text talks about the S11, where at the specs chart, it's called the S11R. Think there will be two versions. Adjusted the thread title.



I think it's just s11. The "r" must be a typo just like the 1500mah. Picture shows plain tailcap


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## ronin21

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Waiting for Going Gear to get them in, then will definitely get a couple. My three new S10 baton's just dropped in value.


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## ForrestChump

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

That things rad.


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## AdamDaze

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



Ryp said:


> It's 14mm shorter than the EC11.



That is tiny...I saw different stats to whats been updated!


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## Speedfreakz

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

I wonder if the head could swap out


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## hivoltage

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Oh Yeah, I will be getting one of these!!


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## chuckhov

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Looks like the light of the future!

The only thing that worries me is what is the Tint going to look like? - Olight seems to get everything right but the tint. - It's as if they don't even care one bit about the tint.

Perhaps they are color blind? 

Thanks,
-Chuck


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## Ladd

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Olight might have a winner here. Handy size. Great specs.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Only questionable tinted light I own is my M3XS-UT on low power.
When it cranks up, tint is lost at a kilometer away period.

On my smaller Olights, tint is fine across them at all outputs.
Ymmv of course, but there is no general issue with "Olight tint' across their line up that makes them any lesser.
Cranking out light is their motto more so then aquarium lighting or foliage enhancing. They look tactical and live by that creed.


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## Joe Talmadge

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Okay, so if I'm looking at the specs right, this light is just very slightly bigger than the 4Sevens Mini-MLX, but twice as bright and with a sideswitch instead of a twisty interace. Seems like a crazy huge win -- as long as it's truly possible to make such a tiny sideswitch that is also reliable.


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

I just ordered a S10r yesterday  

Olight doesn't even have this on their website yet. I SO need to order one of these when then they come out with the 'r' version.


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## Badbeams3

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



SA Condor said:


> I just ordered a S10r yesterday
> 
> Olight doesn't even have this on their website yet. I SO need to order one of these when then they come out with the 'r' version.



I would not count on a "R" version. Think the idea is...as small as is possible for a side switch. Rechargeable would mean it had to be longer.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

This is basically a S10R with a shorter head.


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## Lucky Duck

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

The dang pocket clip is on the wrong end, again! Still...kinda cute.


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## Bruno28

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Lucky Duck said:


> The dang pocket clip is on the wrong end, again! Still...kinda cute.


Can't the pocket clip be reversed? On the s10 it could.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Bruno28 said:


> Can't the pocket clip be reversed? On the s10 it could.


It appears identical to S10, though head is shorter, so when clip is reversed, it'll sit on the edge of the bezel or slightly over in my guesstimated opinion.

Edit, I use reversed clip on both of my S10Rs currently, this is where I'm basing my guess on.


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## Bruno28

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Maybe the clip is smaller so that it does not go past the head.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

They might have.
Not sure clip was meant to be reversible or that might be possible with better results on their longer S series light like S20 or S30.
IMO, it should have been mounted at rear of light. Not a deal breaker on these though. I could overlook it on new S30RII too ☺


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## ForrestChump

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



Overclocker said:


> it is the S11. pls edit thread title
> 
> PS i could already predict that this would be a very successful model



No specs yet -Per Olight

The image looks legit to me. My guess is there might be some final number changes.


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

This is straight from the source:



Olightworld said:


> Hello,
> 
> It appears that battery junction listed the light prematurely as we are not releasing it yet and the specifications have not been finalized. I will post all of the information about it when we are close to a release. Thank you.


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## Ryp

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



SA Condor said:


> This is straight from the source:



Bummer. Oh well, patience.


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Does anyone know if there is a light around the switch as likely it glows. Really looking forward too seeing this light when it comes out


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Ok which is smaller this or the Nitecore EC1


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## Ryp

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Albinoni1967 said:


> Ok which is smaller this or the Nitecore EC1



This. The EC1 was listed at 65mm and selfbuilt measured it at 68.6mm.


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Bruno28 said:


> Can't the pocket clip be reversed? On the s10 it could.


I'm certain that the clip can be reversed even by looking at it, but for myself I prefer to have the head of the torch up


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Anyone know when this light would be available or released


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Albinoni1967 said:


> Anyone know when this light would be available or released



See post #54


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## Beckler

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Disappointed to see they've kept that hexagonal body shape around the switch. What I find with the S10R is that makes it hard (very hard, actually) to find the button by touch. Try it without looking - do you find you basically have to feel thru each set of flats on the hexagon to find the button? It seems there's no reason for it and it should just be machined smooth instead. 

Secondly, I'd bought the S10R specifically since I wanted a side switch for easy operation, but the button's so small and recessed that use with any sort of (even thin) winter glove is impossible. I guess in this case a twistie switch makes most sense! That would be the ideal keychain light I think, the S11 twistie  Anything exist like that?


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

On my laptop which is like dating an ex, not sure if this or similar has been posted.
Battery Junction is taking preorders an has most of the details as thought now.


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## NorthernStar

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



WarRaven said:


> On my laptop which is like dating an ex, not sure if this or similar has been posted.
> Battery Junction is taking preorders an has most of the details as thought now.



They are a little too hasty. The specs are not finalized. See post #54


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## ForrestChump

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Albinoni1967 said:


> Anyone know when this light would be available or released




I had posted it..............now it's gone. :thinking:

The information was direct from Olight.....maybe it was incorrect or they do not have an official date?

Im sure we'll see it before X Mas......


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Just to make things perfectly clear, I started a thread in the Olight section on 8/2/15 and Olight's reply which I copied and pasted in post #54, was given on 8/3/15. So I would definitely not call it misinformation! Here's the thread if you want to check it out for yourselves:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...for-confirmation-from-Olight-directly-for-S11


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Damm I'm tossing up between this or the new SR30 II


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Albinoni1967 said:


> Damm I'm tossing up between this or the new SR30 II



Why?! I've already got the SR30R AND I'd like to get this


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

No dilemma, get both. Win-win!

Nice, just as SA Condor suggest sir. 
+1


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



SA Condor said:


> Why?! I've already got the SR30R AND I'd like to get this


I got neither might end up getting both


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Albinoni1967 said:


> I got neither might end up getting both



Now we're talking!


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

I'm fondling my S10R right now...☺


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



WarRaven said:


> I'm fondling my S10R right now...[emoji5]



Oh man!! My S10R is slowly working its way down to me. It'll probably be 4-6 weeks . . . but then the fondling will begin! But in the meantime I've got my S30R to play with.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Idk if it helps bud but, I've two new'ish S10Rs I'm looking at with dark thoughts. Bought two when I got mine, thought I might get attached to it some fierce, I have.
I'm after the S30R as well.. Think I'll need two of them, just to be safe. ☺


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



WarRaven said:


> Idk if it helps bud but, I've two new'ish S10Rs I'm looking at with dark thoughts. Bought two when I got mine, thought I might get attached to it some fierce, I have.
> I'm after the S30R as well.. Think I'll need two of them, just to be safe. [emoji5]



I'm really excited about the S10R getting here. Rather then get 2 of them, I think I'll hold off and get the S11 as my second little guy.


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## SA Condor

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

I may end up with a second S30R too!


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



SA Condor said:


> Now we're talking!


My current take Olights are S10 and S20. Was going to get the original S30R but glad that I didn't due to its slight problems it was having so will.jump ship and get the S30RII version. Definitely the new baby S11R too.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

That's a safe bet, unless you favor one more so ☺
Sorry, not trying to spread the infliction, just is what it is.
I could see myself with the entire S Series eventually, I like them quite a bit.


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## L.N.

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



SA Condor said:


> This is straight from the source:




Strange that Olight claims that they don't have the final specs yet. In this PDF (which looks official) are the specs on page 3.


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## ForrestChump

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



L.N. said:


> Strange that Olight claims that they don't have the final specs yet. In this PDF (which looks official) are the specs on page 3.




Nice catch. Given the information I was told and what is in the thread I wouldn't fret. I don't think there will be much of a wait. They simply may not be promoting specifications for last minute changes, tweaks that might have to be made, or run a couple more pieces through the ANSI stuff, who knows, but I think they are "officially" coming soon.


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## GoingGear.com

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



L.N. said:


> Strange that Olight claims that they don't have the final specs yet. In this PDF (which looks official) are the specs on page 3.



They have not finalized the specs and the light hasn't officially been released to dealers. That PDF is an initial one used to check English and formatting issues. Specs are easy for the factory to change on those, English is not. 

By the way, the light is going to be the S1, not the S11 or S11R.


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## NorthernStar

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



GoingGear.com said:


> They have not finalized the specs and the light hasn't officially been released to dealers. That PDF is an initial one used to check English and formatting issues. Specs are easy for the factory to change on those, English is not.
> 
> By the way, the light is going to be the S1, not the S11 or S11R.



Does that mean that the S1 will only come in a non rechargeable version?


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## GoingGear.com

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



NorthernStar said:


> Does that mean that the S1 will only come in a non rechargeable version?




Yes, for now.


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## chuckhov

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



GoingGear.com said:


> Yes, for now.



Well, I'm gonna have to be in for one then!

Thanks Marshall!
-Chuck


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## NorthernStar

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



GoingGear.com said:


> Yes, for now.


Thanks. Hope that Olight will eventually also release a rechargeable version as well.


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## L.N.

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

I mailed Olight and asked them if they had a release date for the S11R / S1R, but got the same reply as GoingGear: no release date and also the specs aren't set yet......


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## GoingGear.com

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



L.N. said:


> I mailed Olight and asked them if they had a release date for the S11R / S1R, but got the same reply as GoingGear: no release date and also the specs aren't set yet......



Should be shipping from Olight early next week.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

That's great news imo.
Thanks Marshall.


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## StageofHistory

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Hope they bring out an M1 or M11 version, although the tail switch would probably defeat the point! 



GoingGear.com said:


> They have not finalized the specs and the light hasn't officially been released to dealers. That PDF is an initial one used to check English and formatting issues. Specs are easy for the factory to change on those, English is not.



I found lots of interesting reading in the PDF which I haven't seen before - It seems the M23 is replacing the M22, which isn't even listed, and this is in addition to the M22X Javelot version I already saw a thread about, but the thrower's specs aren't shown. Also, when did the M1X become the M1XS Javelot... The specs look the same to me?!?

But as you said, this looks like a working document without final specs or details, and I'm sorry to move the thread off topic.


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## Albinoni1967

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Sorry guys bit of confusion here, but is this torch a S11 or S1. Have already seen it on ebay and it's listed as a S1 Baton


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## gkbain

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

When / if they release a nw version I may bite. Just hope they have taken care of the tint issue like ZL has.


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## WarRaven

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

There's no tint issue that I can see. Ymmv as you're obviously after a certain tint, that they may or may not have used, the light is still fine for many of us. 
So there is not really an issue with the light, but the end user preferences.
This light will be great.


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## kj2

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

From the Olight- cpf section:


Olightworld said:


> We currently do not have an S1R planned. We are releasing the S1 soon though. I will make a post with the specs in the next week or so. Thank you.


----------



## Marfenix

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



kj2 said:


> From the Olight- cpf section:


Thanks kj2 +1 !:thumbsup:


----------



## WarRaven

Hopefully you guys gave a plus one to the post that immediately followed.


----------



## kj2

WarRaven said:


> Hopefully you guys gave a plus one to the post that immediately followed.


To keep it that small, I cool with the non-charging option.


----------



## WarRaven

That's not parallel to CPF thinking policies!

There should be both options of light made,
so we can elect to buy both lights.

How long have you been feeling under the weather brother?
☺


----------



## kj2

WarRaven said:


> That's not parallel to CPF thinking policies!
> There should be both options of light made,
> so we can elect to buy both lights.


Sure, it's a great option to have, but it isn't necessary IMO. For the non-flashaholic it would be a great feature, but I like the small size it looks to be.
I would rather see the option for CW or NW, than a charging option for this light.


----------



## WarRaven

I've bought two of the S10Rs, love them.
The simplicity of drop and forget is ideal as a back up for my use, or to use as a loaner to the right folks. 

I'm OK with current size, I want the boosted output capability.
Optics may have to grow on me, anodizing hooked me.
Size was already good for me though I EDC 18650 lights too.
So yes, your mileage may vary, but I'd like the option to have a R model. 
Cheers to both.

Edit to add, this simplicity further sold me the S30RII.


----------



## kj2

and a NW 4000k option would be really kicking! :twothumbs


----------



## gkbain

I have a S10L2nw. I like the light but..... Compared to the ZL SC32nw, the S10 has a definite greenish tint while the SC32 is much warmer and no green. I use the S10 at night to get around in the house because I like it's UI better for this purpose than the SC32. When I EDC it's the SC32 and it is smaller than the S10. To me tint is a big issue. I know I am not alone in this tint thing but that's just MHO. To some people tint doesn't matter an that's fine. A matter of personal preference. Carry / use what you like. That's what I do.


----------



## WarRaven

There's a difference in newer an older regular non rechargeable S10s, other then button, glass an gitd ring changed, tint as well from what I read iirc.
Sorry no link off hand, but did read that somewhere.

I'm just saying, not suggesting anything to prior poster.


----------



## Albinoni1967

How does this light compare to the Nitecore EC11, if you were given the choice which would you take


----------



## L.N.

Goinggear: is there a specific reason that the S1 isn't on your website anymore?


----------



## Overclocker

Albinoni1967 said:


> How does this light compare to the Nitecore EC11, if you were given the choice which would you take



apples to oranges. EC11 isn't really that small


----------



## L.N.

I got this PDF from a local dealer. Most of the info is already in the topic, but still it is worth sharing.


----------



## kj2




----------



## WarRaven

Get out!
Who got?


----------



## SA Condor

Notice it says S11?


----------



## WarRaven

I do now. Good eye.


----------



## Albinoni1967

Probably there is two variants a S1 and S11


----------



## wolf_walker

Wish these things would appear, I'd like to buy one.


----------



## Albinoni1967

Spoke to a seller on Ebay and he said this light will be available worldwide on September 2015 hopefully this also means Australia as well.


----------



## Albinoni1967

Does anyone know if this torch will also come in OP reflector and also is it reverse polarity protecting.


----------



## NorthernStar

Great find,Kj2!  Is the button recessed on this S11 light? It´s hard to tell by looking at the picture, but i hope it is.


----------



## Albinoni1967

I'm absolutely certain it's recessed so does this mean no lock out function


----------



## WarRaven

It's similar to S10R, which locks out.


----------



## SA Condor

Yes, I just received my S10R and it has a recessed button and still locks out in a very simple manner.


----------



## onthebeam

Help me understand this reflector from the picture above. Does this mean it's optimized purely for throw, with little spill? I see the Olight promo materials that tout it's throw capabilities.


----------



## WarRaven

At 110m it's no throw beast.
Good for it's size, though the beam should be interesting to behold.


----------



## kj2

I should receive a review sample, shortly before it's been released. For what I know, release is around early September.


----------



## SA Condor

Here you go folks, posted by Olightworld just moments ago in their subforum:


----------



## NorthernStar

I saw this too. It´s a little contradictory statement from Olight, since Kj2 shall receive a review sample soon and says that release date will be in early September. :thinking:


----------



## SA Condor

NorthernStar said:


> I saw this too. It´s a little contradictory statement from Olight, since Kj2 shall receive a review sample soon and says that release date will be in early September. :thinking:



Olight is referring to the rechargeable model. The non-rechargeable model S1 looks like it's on track to be released soon.


----------



## NorthernStar

SA Condor said:


> Olight is referring to the rechargeable model. The non-rechargeable model S1 looks like it's on track to be released soon.



I see! 

Well, let´s hope that Olight will release a rechargeable version as well in the near future.


----------



## SA Condor

Agreed!


----------



## L.N.

Yes, a S1R with a NW led would be great.


----------



## kj2

From the Going Gear Instagram:


----------



## wolf_walker

Is that the s10r on top? Tiny


----------



## kj2

Text under the photo, says it's the S10R


----------



## Camo5

Looks like the s10R, the s10 has a blue rubber switch, and the S1 has the black one. Really digging that blue trim on it.


----------



## bjt3833

Yeah that picture definitely is comparing the s10R to the S1. You can see the low voltage light in the center. The s10 with the black switch doesn't have a low voltage indicator in its switch.


----------



## wolf_walker

Is there such a thing as too-little(lengthwise)? That may well be close.
Gonna buy one anyway..


----------



## kj2

Sorry, I need to read better late at night. Marshall did indeed write, that it is the S10R next to it.


----------



## don.gwapo

Hope they make a 18650 version of this for longer run times.


----------



## NorthernStar

kj2 said:


> From the Going Gear Instagram:



Still hard to tell from this picture if the S1 has a recessed button or not?:thinking:


----------



## kj2

Looks quite recessed to me, but we'll know when it's been released.


----------



## WarRaven

Looks like same button on S30RII.
Slightly raised, the natural balloon shape of button almost, has to be depressed to reach switch. 
That's my guess.


----------



## NorthernStar

WarRaven said:


> Looks like same button on S30RII.
> Slightly raised, the natural balloon shape of button almost, has to be depressed to reach switch.
> That's my guess.



Indeed it does look like that. I dont have the S30RII though. Does accidental activation with this switch happens easily?


----------



## wolf_walker

WarRaven said:


> Looks like same button on S30RII.
> Slightly raised, the natural balloon shape of button almost, has to be depressed to reach switch.
> That's my guess.


I agree. I actually like the s10r hard button better. Might just be my calloused fingers though.


----------



## WarRaven

NorthernStar said:


> Indeed it does look like that. I dont have the S30RII though. Does accidental activation with this switch happens easily?


Not yet in my travels, clipped to top of left hand pocket.
Also, older flat black hard plastic switch hasn't given me any grief either from my S10Rs.

Wolf, yeah, I'm kind of attached to the hard plastic too, 
not as much drag on denim or fabric as well, IMO.


----------



## SubLGT

don.gwapo said:


> Hope they make a 18650 version of this for longer run times.



I hope they make a 18350 version. Same length as the S1, but a little fatter.


----------



## Overclocker

SubLGT said:


> I hope they make a 18350 version. Same length as the S1, but a little fatter.




yes please, and 18500 version. same girth but a tad more length as 18350

16650 version also, for those who prefer long but thin

and finally a 26650 version


----------



## kj2




----------



## L.N.

Nice! The S1 looks bigger in your hands then on the GoingGear photo. When do you think your review will be ready?


----------



## NorthernStar

I wonder how these built-in timer settings works? I hope that they are hidden under normal use.The manual on the picture is incomplete,so it´s hard to tell from it.


----------



## Bruno28

Ohh did anyone notice the polarity is reversed compared to the regular s10?


----------



## WarRaven

Good catch, is just like new S30r, except rechargeability.


----------



## kj2

L.N. said:


> Nice! The S1 looks bigger in your hands then on the GoingGear photo. When do you think your review will be ready?



Not my hand 
Chinese supplier has received a small batch today, and should ship a review sample in the coming days.


----------



## L.N.

Ah small Chinese hands. I ordered my S1 at a Dutch dealer, but no delivery date yet. As for as i know the S1 will be shipped to the distributors in the first week of september. So hopefully i get it in the second week of september.

The S1 is on the Olight website:


----------



## GoingGear.com

L.N. said:


> Ah small Chinese hands. I ordered my S1 at a Dutch dealer, but no delivery date yet. As for as i know the S1 will be shipped to the distributors in the first week of september. So hopefully i get it in the second week of september.
> 
> The S1 is on the Olight website:



The S1 will start shipping to retail customers on 9/1.


----------



## GoingGear.com

Bruno28 said:


> Ohh did anyone notice the polarity is reversed compared to the regular s10?



Yeah, we're preparing ourselves for those questions. They did engrave the polarity on the body of the light, but I wish they had wrapped it with an obnoxious red notice sticker as well. We already get 5-10 questions a day about S30R IIs that "aren't working."

Us: "Turn the battery around."

Them: "Oh!"


----------



## WarRaven

Next year, the lights will be sealed is my guess.


----------



## wjv

Post #106

"Dropping high output by 50% within one minute of constant on"

Is that a typo Did they mean 1 hour????


----------



## GoingGear.com

wjv said:


> Post #106
> 
> "Dropping high output by 50% within one minute of constant on"
> 
> Is that a typo Did they mean 1 hour????




No, one minute. It's really small and that's a lot of heat for a tiny light.


----------



## gopajti

My S1 arrived today. Just one word, awesome! Very tiny, much smaller than S10R. Huge hotspot (no visible rings etc), no pwm, no greenish or yellowish beam, just cool white in all modes. Definitely the one of the best edc flashlight what I've tried in past years. 


The multilang user manual (own scan)










quick shots


----------



## cp2315

Thanks for sharing! Nice pictures.


----------



## gopajti




----------



## NorthernStar

Outstanding,gopajti!

What do you think about the S1 sideswitch, is it recessed? Have you had any accidental activation while carrying it? Is there a lockout mode? I can´t understand the benefits of a timer function.:thinking: On the other Baton lights there is not such function. If one happens to activate the timer function, can one turn it of then?


----------



## onthebeam

That blue trim doesn't glow in the dark, does it?

Also, assuming this is more of a thrower with not as much flood?


----------



## kj2

onthebeam said:


> Also, assuming this is more of a thrower with not as much flood?




A thrower :thinking:


----------



## onthebeam

What I should have been more clear on is:

More emphasis on hotspot intensity (which appears to be the case) or a floody beam?

I have several lights in this size range, and personally have more use for a flood.

The question was for gopajti and/or spock.


----------



## recDNA

Actually I would love a tiny, pocket sized thrower. I would carry an extra flashlight to have it. Granted, I usually need a floody light but sometimes I leave the lab after 10pm and the parking lot is spooky. It abuts a high fence with railroad tracks behind it. I like to be able to light up my car before I walk to the lot and it is a distance. By the time I approach near enough to use a zebralight sc62w I'm kind of trapped if anyone is lurking out there. Kind of looks like a scene from the walking dead. Last winter particularly scary since once you entered the lot you were surrounded by 20 foot high snow banks. Once you walked in only one way out. If blocked by a mugger..well you get the idea


----------



## wjv

Bruno28 said:


> Ohh did anyone notice the polarity is reversed compared to the regular s10?



The reverse of every other light I own. . . . :shakehead 

That's enough to make me avoid it, as odds are at some point, I'd stick a battery in backwards. .


----------



## SA Condor

wjv said:


> The reverse of every other light I own. . . . :shakehead
> 
> That's enough to make me avoid it, as odds are at some point, I'd stick a battery in backwards. .



I'm pretty sure (99%) that it's protected, so the light just won't work until you turn the battery around.


----------



## wolf_walker

Hoping for some beamshots compared to an S10R.


----------



## Tixx

recDNA said:


> Actually I would love a tiny, pocket sized thrower. I would carry an extra flashlight to have it. Granted, I usually need a floody light but sometimes I leave the lab after 10pm and the parking lot is spooky. It abuts a high fence with railroad tracks behind it. I like to be able to light up my car before I walk to the lot and it is a distance. By the time I approach near enough to use a zebralight sc62w I'm kind of trapped if anyone is lurking out there. Kind of looks like a scene from the walking dead. Last winter particularly scary since once you entered the lot you were surrounded by 20 foot high snow banks. Once you walked in only one way out. If blocked by a mugger..well you get the idea



Nitecore EC11 is a good thrower for the size and I have a lot of lights around that size.


----------



## antouan

Would the S1 also accept 18350 batteries?


----------



## GoingGear.com

antouan said:


> Would the S1 also accept 18350 batteries?




No, they would be too big.


----------



## antouan

GoingGear.com said:


> No, they would be too big.


Thanks [emoji6]


----------



## ForrestChump

Hey Marshall, 

After much thought I have a great idea. Send me one for free as a independent testing campaign, I'll give it a thorough review and go over every detail of the light with tons of photos and of course mention GoinGear is the best place for all your flashlight needs. You won't even have to pay me! 


- Forrest


----------



## kj2

ForrestChump said:


> Hey Marshall,
> 
> After much thought I have a great idea. Send me one for free as a independent testing campaign,
> - Forrest


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?407036-We-are-looking-for-S1-Baton-Reviewers!


----------



## ForrestChump

kj2 said:


> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?407036-We-are-looking-for-S1-Baton-Reviewers!




Nope, I want one from Marshall, autographed.


----------



## kj2

Just saw the S1 at the distributor here. The switch isn't that recessed, as the M1X, for example. Button cover is rubber, and feels like the switch cover on the SR Mini and SR52.
Don't know for sure, but there could be a timer in the light that shuts off the light. But don't quote me on that, since I haven't received my review sample yet.
I do know why the polarity is different than usual 

edit; and yes, it's tiny. So tiny


----------



## SA Condor

kj2 said:


> I do know why the polarity is different than usual
> 
> edit; and yes, it's tiny. So tiny



Ok, do tell!


----------



## kj2

SA Condor said:


> Ok, do tell!


Just give it some time


----------



## SA Condor

kj2 said:


> Just give it some time



Ah man! You mean I have to be patient


----------



## kj2

SA Condor said:


> Ah man! You mean I have to be patient


One of the most difficult parts, while being on this forum


----------



## Ryp




----------



## NorthernStar

Great find, Ryp!

It looks like a great light, but still the more protruding switch of the S1 compared to the S10R makes me hesitate to pull the trigger. I don´t understand why Olight did not keep the same recessed switch as the S10R on the S1?:thinking: I wait untill i see a full review of this light before i make a decision.


----------



## recDNA

I don't care about that but I'm still looking for a single CR123A flashlight that out throws an eb1?


----------



## Marfenix

I am mostly interested in the beamshot pictures in the dark and comparison to the S10.


----------



## kj2

Marfenix said:


> I am mostly interested in the beamshot pictures in the dark and comparison to the S10.


Will compare both, when my review sample arrives


----------



## jruser

Anybody think vinh will be modding this one? Really want this, but I swore I am not buying more cool tints.


----------



## Tixx

jruser said:


> Anybody think vinh will be modding this one? Really want this, but I swore I am not buying more cool tints.


XP-L 4000k would do me right! And maybe a little boost. [emoji12]


----------



## SubLGT

Thermal management safety program with overheat protection by
dropping high output by 50% within 1 minute of
constant on. Turbo mode has a limit of 1.5 minutes 

 



As I understand the functioning from the above statement, after 1.5 minutes in high mode of 500 lumens, there is a step-down to 300 lumen. And one minute after that event, there is a further 50% reduction in output, to 150 lumen. Is that an accurate interpretation?


----------



## recDNA

I love thermal protection. I just don't think it kicks in soon enough on any light I have owned that has it. If it is too hot to hold thermal protection should have kicked in sooner imo


----------



## wolf_walker

I believe the thermal protection is for the flashlight components, not the holder.


----------



## onthebeam

For those of you who have seen the S-1, is there a place on the light to place some tritium?

Lanyard holes could be a possible spot--is there enough width in the lanyard holes, for example?

Or perhaps along both sides of the support for the side switch?

Although I prefer tritium, one thing I love about my Eagletac D25C titanium is the surprisingly bright glow tail clicky. It truly glows through the night.


----------



## kj2

onthebeam said:


> For those of you who have seen the S-1, is there a place on the light to place some tritium?
> 
> Lanyard holes could be a possible spot--is there enough width in the lanyard holes, for example?
> 
> Or perhaps along both sides of the support for the side switch?



I've no idea how thick the body is, if you can mill out a slot for a tritium tube.
But I don't think it's possible.


----------



## Marfenix

Here is the latest video I found on Youtube:

https://youtu.be/UR9b1ko-PcI


----------



## akhyar

I'm waiting for this light to replace my Sunwayman M11R as an EDC light.
The shorter 61mm vs the 75mm will make it easier to keep it inside my jeans pocket and I believed the side switch will be easier to operate


----------



## WarRaven

It has a timer option,..
Sweet.

Love the little included case, S10R should have had one too.


----------



## kj2

Review sample should be delivered, today 

Edit: postal mistake. Had to decline the package.


----------



## Marfenix

kj2 said:


> Review sample should be delivered, today



Delivery on a Monday in The Netherlands???:laughing:


----------



## kj2

Marfenix said:


> Delivery on a Monday in The Netherlands???:laughing:


DHL


----------



## Tixx

Ordered!


----------



## dJippe

I wonder how durable new lens is? Here is graph from valostore with cr123a battery, they use labsphere fs2 in their measurements.


----------



## wolf_walker

I have a dumb newbie question, why does the S10R in that graph appear to drop to 0 on high after 40min, when selfbuilt's review here
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...)-Rechargeable-Dock-Review-BEAMSHOTS-RUNTIMES
shows it running slightly longer than that till 50%?


----------



## thburns

wolf_walker said:


> I have a dumb newbie question, why does the S10R in that graph appear to drop to 0 on high after 40min, when selfbuilt's review here
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...)-Rechargeable-Dock-Review-BEAMSHOTS-RUNTIMES
> shows it running slightly longer than that till 50%?



selfbuilt was using a 750 mAh battery, the graph above is for a 650 mAh cell. Here's a runtime test I did between the S10R and the S1 on high, both with Olight 650 mAh cells:


----------



## WarRaven

Um the S10R is taking the S1 in output?
Oddities?


----------



## wolf_walker

Ohhhh, ok cool. Thanks.


----------



## Albinoni1967

Have you noticed that the battery when inserted goes the opposite way, most torches that I know of the + side of the battery normally goes in first than the - side facing at the rear, but I wonder why the S1 is different


----------



## thburns

Albinoni1967 said:


> Have you noticed that the battery when inserted goes the opposite way, most torches that I know of the + side of the battery normally goes in first than the - side facing at the rear, but I wonder why the S1 is different



I have no idea why, but the entire inside of the battery tube seems to be anodized as well, and the head spring is recessed in an anodized ring as well.


----------



## kj2

Albinoni1967 said:


> , but I wonder why the S1 is different


Because there is something coming


----------



## akhyar

kj2 said:


> Because there is something coming



S1R? [emoji6]


----------



## kj2

akhyar said:


> S1R? [emoji6]



Maybe


----------



## Overclocker

not thrilled about the prospect of yet another proprietary cell...


----------



## chuckhov

There will be a Rechargeable version, working like the S30R II, would be my guess.

-Chuck


----------



## SA Condor

Honestly! I don't know why everyone gets so worked up about the propriety cells! If it were the ONLY battery you could use in it, then yeah. But it's not the ONLY battery you can use! You can use your own rechargeables charged on your very own charger! No reason to be upset IMO.


----------



## WarRaven

I've no problems with their cells.
Ymmv. 
I'm guessing a S1R is coming.
S10R suffers from same issues S30R did.
I've two that do same thing, charge pin gets lodged out of place.
Great light, slightly annoying issue for some.


----------



## Prepped

So would it be worthwhile holding out to buy the rechargeable model? Would the S1 be easily modifiable to accommodate the recharging station? Will Olight solve the issues the older models had with recharging?

All this and more, on unsolved mysteries...


----------



## Tixx

Tixx said:


> Ordered!



Shipped!


----------



## Ned-L

Ordered yesterday - too interesting EDC at a reasonable price - couldn't resist


----------



## chuckhov

I like that they seemed to have fixed that sickly tint that most of the S models have.

Looks like I'm gonna have to get one, when they come down in price. ($35-$40)

Thanks,
-CHuck


----------



## akhyar

I'm waiting for the price to drop to that region too before contemplating a purchase.
The small size that can throw that much lumens, with easy UI makes it a great EDC


----------



## Albinoni1967

Does the S1 have reverse polarity protection


----------



## akhyar

Albinoni1967 said:


> Does the S1 have reverse polarity protection



From a review at the othe forum, the reviewer said the light has a reverse polarity protcection.
He installed the battery with the +ve terminal to the head, just like other lights, and it won't switch on.


----------



## Prepped

Just dropped 50 bucks on this. Fingers crossed!


----------



## GoingGear.com

Prepped said:


> So would it be worthwhile holding out to buy the rechargeable model? Would the S1 be easily modifiable to accommodate the recharging station? Will Olight solve the issues the older models had with recharging?
> 
> All this and more, on unsolved mysteries...



S1R won't be here anytime soon, if they do it. It's not on the release schedule. I'd say next year.


----------



## Overclocker

SA Condor said:


> Honestly! I don't know why everyone gets so worked up about the propriety cells! If it were the ONLY battery you could use in it, then yeah. But it's not the ONLY battery you can use! You can use your own rechargeables charged on your very own charger! No reason to be upset IMO.




LOL i'm not gonna argue what things upset you not but i know that when something doesn't charge up when you absolutely need it to because it isn't that SPECIAL PROPRIETARY battery i sure am going to get upset

but if you're going to charge outside the flashlight anyway then why buy the rechargeable version?

anyway olights new charging system has to prove itself first before i go anywhere near those "R" suffix things again


----------



## wolf_walker

The 10R has been my carry light for three weeks or so now, it's been fantastic.
It's so tiny, I toss a spare 123 in another pocket (which is also so tiny I can't feel it)
and I'm covered for anything short of a days long disaster lol. I could literally tape 
three or four 123 cells to the inside of my upper boot cuff if I had to and never know they were 
there. I bought the RC version since it's convenient to just plunk it on the charger base every
night. I'm so used to charging my cell phone, charging my tablet, etc, etc, it fits right in. 
While I don't have the confidence in it I had in my 6P I carried on my belt the last 
six or seven years, it's building. And the formfactor is just great for when I'm not working.

I have an S30R-2 as well, it's a better charging system, but I can't figure out what the heck people
were doing with the early setup to screw up that springy contact on the originals if they were
anything like my 10 is. I tried everything short of cramming dirt and sand into it, fine so far. Maybe the spring get's 
tired? I dunno, I'm totally down with an S1R if that happens.

I'm a pretty shrewd consumer and buy a lot of tech and hardware and machines and tools and such, 
and consequently do a lot of homework about them before hand. It's not often something 
exceeds my expectations, but this little thing sure has. :thumbsup:


----------



## Trevilux

Arrived 2 hour ago to my hands Olight S1.
some Pics for you:

















































Is a Wow flashlight EDC, great design, great power and small size!!
You can see the group Pic with the old Thrunite T20 (my smallest CR123A).


----------



## apisdorf

Did it come with a holster? The video mentioned it did.


----------



## Trevilux

apisdorf said:


> Did it come with a holster? The video mentioned it did.



Holster?  
I think S series of olight never include holster.


----------



## Albinoni1967

Hey guys what's the difference between the S1 and S1R


----------



## WarRaven

Olight showed a holster, for the S1 yes.

Nice beam shot.
+1


----------



## SA Condor

Albinoni1967 said:


> Hey guys what's the difference between the S1 and S1R



The S1R doesn't exist currently, so the difference is huge! The S1 is the tiny flashlight you've seen pictures of in this thread. The S1R is a hope and a dream for some, but it doesn't exist right now!


----------



## Tixx

Albinoni1967 said:


> Hey guys what's the difference between the S1 and S1R


And the r stands for rechargeable.


----------



## Albinoni1967

Is there a illumination light around the switch and also does this torch have low battery indicator eg what the S20 or S30 have


----------



## Trevilux

Albinoni1967 said:


> Is there a illumination light around the switch and also does this torch have low battery indicator eg what the S20 or S30 have


No illumanition around the switch, and not low battery indicator as the S20 or S30. I will must try runtime test and check if there are some advise of low voltage.


----------



## jruser

Does the clip reverse to allow carrying bezel down?


----------



## Ryp

Does the S1 have a wider spill than the S10?


----------



## Ned-L

Trevilux-thanks for the info and photos - my S1 has an ETA of Tuesday, 9/8!!!


----------



## Tixx

Ned-L said:


> Trevilux-thanks for the info and photos - my S1 has an ETA of Tuesday, 9/8!!!


Mine too!


----------



## wuyeah

What I love most about this light is the magnet tail. Very useful feature to have. Although I have to concern a bit about my mechanical watches making sure the tail don't get too close.


----------



## Trevilux

About S10/S1 beam, I only have the first version of Olight S10 with XM-L (white switch).

Here over white wall:


----------



## wolf_walker

Less spill, larger hot spot pretty much?


----------



## pvsampson

Ned-L said:


> ///my S1 has an ETA of Tuesday, 9/8!!!





Tixx said:


> Mine too!



Mine will arrive Monday.But that is Sunday for you guys,because I live in the future.


----------



## WarRaven

I'm liking new optic output, thanks for beam shot.
It's spill is tighter then it's bigger bothers.
Kudos Olight.


----------



## akhyar

Just received email notification from Banggood that they have shipped my order of S1 Baton and a couple of Keeppower 16340 cells. 
Now the waiting game begins


----------



## Albinoni1967

Wonder if any eBay suppliers here will get this light


----------



## Overclocker

akhyar said:


> Just received email notification from Banggood that they have shipped my order of S1 Baton and a couple of Keeppower 16340 cells.
> Now the waiting game begins




is the keeppower 16340 compatible with the S1? if i remember right the S10 isn't (requires an rcr123a w/ the same length as a cr123a like the olighr rcr123a)


----------



## akhyar

Overclocker said:


> is the keeppower 16340 compatible with the S1? if i remember right the S10 isn't (requires an rcr123a w/ the same length as a cr123a like the olighr rcr123a)
> ]



I'm afraid I've no idea at all. Fingers crossed it is compatible.
I'll let you know once I received both.
I also have a couple of AW protected 16340 to try once I received the light.

Did some further readings and found that Olight RCR123 is about 33.7mm length while the Keeppower is 35.6mm length, so there is a cause for concern here


----------



## Trevilux

I have tried, Klarus rcr123a protected and Nitecore NL-166 protected and S1 runs fine with both.


----------



## akhyar

Trevilux said:


> I have tried, Klarus rcr123a protected and Nitecore NL-166 protected and S1 runs fine with both.



Excellent to hear that


----------



## onthebeam

My Olight S1 Baton arrived today. Upon hearing the details of this new torch, I ordered on its release date, hoping the S1 has the potential to become my EDC. First impressions:

TIR OPTIC / Superb. This is my first light with such an optic and Olight has executed its design beautifully. Check!

TINT: I have several lights with Cree XM-L2 emitters. My Olight is nice 'n neutral. Very pleasing with no yellow/green shift. Check!

BRIGHTNESS RANGE / Nearly ideal. More even spacing than my Eagletacs D25Cs yet somewhat similar in step up range to the AA sized Eagletac D25A. However, as compared with the Eagletac, the Olight S1 is much brighter at its highest setting.

For an EDC, one of my must have criteria is a moon mode and for my personal taste I've settled on .5 lumens as ideal. Even at a mere 1.5 lumens the Foursevens Mini MLX is too bright first thing in the a.m. The Eagletac's hit the .5 mark and superbly so does the Olight S1. Stunningly bright on it's highest mode but 500 barn burning lumens will warm up the barrel pretty quick on a torch this small. The S1 will wisely step down to 300 lumens after 90 seconds and truly does live up to the name, TORCH! Check!

BEAM / I decided to compare the S1's beam to similar CR123 lights in my arsenal such as the Eagletac D25C (XM-L2), Eagletac D25C (Nichia 219B) and FourSevens Mini ML-X (XM-L2). The light that the S1 can be mostly compared to is the Eagletac D25C (XM-L2). Keep in mind that my light samples may differ a bit from yours. My Olight S1 has a really useful, very broad spot--apleasing beam quite a bit wider than Eagletac's. While the spot is wider the spill is tight. First impressions are this this is a well thought out design optimized by use of the TIR optic. Check!

CONVENIENCE / Can this little 44 gram marvel become my EDC? / First, I love that the S1 includes a tail magnet, a feature I strongly prefer in an EDC, although I realize that others find that they fight against keys, etc. I use lights this size in the pocket and immediately remove the clips and don't use the lanyard. This is my first Olight and I'm getting used to their side switch style for the first time. First, I think there is zero chance it will activate in pocket as some have feared. However, I reach for an EDC first thing in the morning and need to find the switch in the dark without fiddling. The feel of the neoprene on the switch isn't easy for me to perceive in the dark. Without the clip, I'm not yet locating the switch immediately but hope I'll soon get used to finding it quickly by feel. The blue trim is neat but I'd trade it in a second for at least a glow ring around the clicky switch.

HOW TO MAKE THE OLIGHT S1 AN EVEN MORE SUPERB EDC / Until recently, my longterm EDC has been an Orb Raw and I'm so accustomed to tritium locators that it's hard for me to have a true EDC without them. Since I don't use a lanyard, there is 13mm of width in the lanyard slots, fortunately cut flush with the flashlight body. However, the width of the slots diminishes toward their edges due to the circular curve of the light. Two 5mm x 1.55 mm trits would fit nicely back to back. After careful measuring, I've determined the trits might stick out very slightly on the edges. However, this may not prove to be an issue because when the light rolls, it's not rolling in a pure circle, it's hitting the hexagonal shape of the support for the clicky. So, if the trits stick out slightly, there is a little leeway. I'm not yet certain if there would be any breakage danger but can determine this soon once some vials are in hand. If two 5mms don't fit, one centered 6mm x 1mm trit should instead work well. 

I'm pleased I'll be able to add some tritium easily. However, one more wrinkle remains. I've noticed that the lanyard slot is at the opposite side of the light of the clicky switch. Ideally, I would want the tritium indicators on the same side as the switch, and aesthetically, directly below it. I wondered how to solve the dilemma? One washer added to the positive post of the battery did the trick. The width of the battery is lengthened slightly and I still get a tight seal with the lanyard cutouts now directly below the switch.

So, "Tritium Mod" here I come. Hope to compare notes with others who want to go this route, too. 

AESTHETICS ? CHASING THE DREAM / This is going to be a very popular torch indeed. Good chance my new Olight S1 will make it to EDC Land! I'd love to see a special edition of the Olight S1 in Titanium with built in tritium locators, or possibly a glow switch like Eagletac uses. A Nichia 219B option would be nice, too.

All in all, BRAVO Olight!


----------



## wolf_walker

thanks for the impressions.

One use for the magnetic cap occurred to me recently was to velcro or otherwise attach a small piece of thin steel to the wall, 
table, bedpost, etc such as to be able to find it by memory in the dark in bed. Tritium is a more snazzy solution though. 

I run the pocket clip right next to the switch on my s10r which has if anything a less easy to feel flush hard plastic switch.
It'll take awhile to really establish good muscle memory for it but I'm fairly proficient in drawing from my pocket and finding 
the switch after a few weeks. Sure wish there was a way to make that switch more visible to the fingertip but not
prone to accidental turn-on. Nothing's perfect I guess.


----------



## onthebeam

wolf_walker said:


> thanks for the impressions.
> 
> One use for the magnetic cap occurred to me recently was to velcro or otherwise attach a small piece of thin steel to the wall,
> table, bedpost, etc such as to be able to find it by memory in the dark in bed. Tritium is a more snazzy solution though.
> 
> I run the pocket clip right next to the switch on my s10r which has if anything a less easy to feel flush hard plastic switch.
> It'll take awhile to really establish good muscle memory for it but I'm fairly proficient in drawing from my pocket and finding
> the switch after a few weeks. Sure wish there was a way to make that switch more visible to the fingertip but not
> prone to accidental turn-on. Nothing's perfect I guess.




Don't worry about accidental turn on with the S1. Switch very well designed, in my opinion.

I do have a bedside table with a steel base that looks like geeky CPF paradise. Several lights sticking to it by magnets! The new S1 fits right in and for now is in the coveted #1 spot I'll first reach to in the morning. Looking forward to adding trits, though.


----------



## Prepped

Mine literally just arrived, and is dead on arrival. Has a horrible flicker in all modes but turbo. I've tried new batteries, cleaning the contacts, tightening the head all the way etc.

Very, very disappointed. Especially seeing as I took a big chance on this while my M10 Maverick is away for a warranty repair, it only lasted a few months before just quitting on me. I think this is going to be my last Olight purchase. It's fine, I'll just ship it back at my expense, wait God knows how long for them to fix it (hopefully), and then wait another few weeks to get it back. Not impressed.


----------



## NorthernStar

Prepped said:


> Mine literally just arrived, and is dead on arrival. Has a horrible flicker in all modes but turbo. I've tried new batteries, cleaning the contacts, tightening the head all the way etc.
> 
> Very, very disappointed. Especially seeing as I took a big chance on this while my M10 Maverick is away for a warranty repair, it only lasted a few months before just quitting on me. I think this is going to be my last Olight purchase. It's fine, I'll just ship it back at my expense, wait God knows how long for them to fix it (hopefully), and then wait another few weeks to get it back. Not impressed.



That was sad to hear! Keep us updated about the outcome of the matter.


----------



## Prepped

Yeah, I'm pretty upset at the moment. I was hesitant to buy the light as I had experienced issues with my M10, which is actually away right now. I saw this light and decided to take a chance. Looks like it didn't pay off. I'm waiting to see how their customer service department handles this issue, which will determine if I recommend or do business with them in the future. I'll keep you all posted on how it goes!

I will say that the turbo mode is very impressive, and the light itself it's mind-blowingly petite.

Here are a couple of size comparisons to other lights I own, and my hand




From left to right - Quarter, Olight S1 Baton, Lumintop Tool AAA, Thrunite Ti4


----------



## mb200k

Prepped said:


> Yeah, I'm pretty upset at the moment. I was hesitant to buy the light as I had experienced issues with my M10, which is actually away right now. I saw this light and decided to take a chance. Looks like it didn't pay off. I'm waiting to see how their customer service department handles this issue, which will determine if I recommend or do business with them in the future. I'll keep you all posted on how it goes!
> 
> I will say that the turbo mode is very impressive, and the light itself it's mind-blowingly petite.
> 
> Here are a couple of size comparisons to other lights I own, and my hand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From left to right - Quarter, Olight S1 Baton, Lumintop Tool AAA, Thrunite Ti4


This is terrible, the light looks awesome but with all this problems is not worth the risk...


----------



## Prepped

I'm withholding my final verdict pending how Olight handles this. I understand lemons happen, but two of them is a little worrying to me. But I know there are many people on here who love Olight. We'll just wait and see. I'll try to post a video of the flickering soon.

Update: Here is the flicker on moonlight mode



Here it is on low mode. It also occasionally does it on medium, although this didn't pick it up too well. It's quite sporadic. 



I'm wondering if this has something to do with PWM?


----------



## WarRaven

mb200k said:


> This is terrible, the light looks awesome but with all this problems is not worth the risk...



There is only one person reporting an issue so far.


----------



## mb200k

WarRaven said:


> There is only one person reporting an issue so far.


Im just going to wait a little more before buying, it may be just like the charging issues when the s10r series launched.


----------



## wolf_walker

mb200k said:


> Im just going to wait a little more before buying, it may be just like the charging issues when the s10r series launched.



While it never hurts to let others be the guinea pigs for a brand new product, as near as I (and Google) can tell the 30R was the only one with much trouble reported for some reason. 
I have a 10R and a revised second series 30R, I like what they changed and I see why but my 10 has been trouble free. Olight makes quality products and seems to 
fix them if there is a problem as far as I can tell. They wouldn't last long in this sector if they didn't, I'm surprised how competitive it is.


----------



## WarRaven

Well, I'm caught in that quagmire myself, so touche.


----------



## Prepped

Update: I have absolutely no idea why, but it's stopped the flickering. It slowly went away the longer I ran the light. My guess is that this is a PWM based issue, and somehow as the new battery has lost some amperage and charge, the flickering has gone with it. Maybe one of the more knowledgeable guys can chime in?

Update again:... and it's back again. Sigh. 

But I will agree with what one of the guys said, this is the only issue reported so far. I'm just a lucky guy like that...


----------



## WarRaven

Tried different cells by chance?
Sorry if you said that already an I'm just not aware at minutes.


----------



## Prepped

WarRaven said:


> Tried different cells by chance?
> Sorry if you said that already an I'm just not aware at minutes.



Yeah, gave a few different cells a try. I don't have any rechargeables on hand to try, unfortunately. I'm just going to send it back.


----------



## WarRaven

No doubt there, I'm not saying good luck.
This was just bad luck, next light will be normal as expected.
Save luck for lottery.☺


----------



## Prepped

It's a shame because I want to love it. I'm sure when I get it all figured out it will become one of my favourite lights! The size is just fantastic for minimalists, and the output on turbo is very good. I'm just waiting for it to get dark here in old Ohio so I can go and check it out!

I have another theory that it may involve the switching mechanism within the light. It seems to be flickering less often now as I've been working it. I'll post back tomorrow after I've used it throughout the night and let you guys know if it's worked itself out. 

It's either PWM / battery related or something with the switch, from what I can tell.


----------



## mb200k

Prepped said:


> It's a shame because I want to love it. I'm sure when I get it all figured out it will become one of my favourite lights! The size is just fantastic for minimalists, and the output on turbo is very good. I'm just waiting for it to get dark here in old Ohio so I can go and check it out!


Im sure they will fix it and the next one will be awesome, i also want to buy this light, it seems like the perfect edc


----------



## Prepped

mb200k said:


> Im sure they will fix it and the next one will be awesome, i also want to buy this light, it seems like the perfect edc



Without the issues I'm having right now, it's certainly a very good contender given the user interface, tail standing ability, magnet tailcap, very low and high output, and compact design.


----------



## Prepped

I'm going to make a very quick little video now that it's gotten dark here. If anybody has any weird little requests or things that want to see, let me know on here within the next half an hour or so and I'll try to accommodate. I'm sorry, but I don't have the old S10 to do a beam comparison with. The only lights I have on hand right now are a Surefire E1l Outdoorsman, a TN12, a Ti4, a Ti2, and Lumintop Tool AAA.


----------



## onthebeam

Folks, I've updated my detailed Olight S1 first impressions post.

Now that's it's dark, I've been able to get a better sense of its quite impressive attributes.

See post 248 for the details if interested.

Thanks.


----------



## Prepped




----------



## WarRaven

Growing on you ☺


----------



## HB 88

Extremely pleased with the new S1, it pairs well with my Fenix E15. I hope it proves to be as durable as the E15, time will tell.
Quick and dirty snap shot...


----------



## snowlover91

Prepped said:


> It's a shame because I want to love it. I'm sure when I get it all figured out it will become one of my favourite lights! The size is just fantastic for minimalists, and the output on turbo is very good. I'm just waiting for it to get dark here in old Ohio so I can go and check it out!
> 
> I have another theory that it may involve the switching mechanism within the light. It seems to be flickering less often now as I've been working it. I'll post back tomorrow after I've used it throughout the night and let you guys know if it's worked itself out.
> 
> It's either PWM / battery related or something with the switch, from what I can tell.



Had this issue briefly with my Nitecore MT10c a few days ago. I thought it was the switch but it turned out that the tail cap wasn't screwed on tightly. Make sure the tail cap is on tight and that may fix the issue.


----------



## pvsampson

HB 88 said:


> Extremely pleased with the new S1, it pairs well with my Fenix E15. I hope it proves to be as durable as the E15, time will tell.
> Quick and dirty snap shot...



Where did you get that lanyard/clip?


----------



## jruser

Can you reverse the pocket clip and carry bezel down?


----------



## HB 88

pvsampson said:


> Where did you get that lanyard/clip?



Google " Xtools EDC mini clips" and "cell phone lariat" . I often wear pants that have rings inside the front pockets. I assume the rings are meant for keys, etc. But that suspended clip setup works as a really secure and discrete carry for small lights, pocket knives and the like. And really affordable too.


----------



## HB 88

jruser said:


> Can you reverse the pocket clip and carry bezel down?



Yes, but the clip does protrude past the bezel.


----------



## WarRaven

onthebeam said:


> Folks, I've updated my detailed Olight S1 first impressions post.
> 
> Now that's it's dark, I've been able to get a better sense of its quite impressive attributes.
> 
> See post 248 for the details if interested.
> 
> Thanks.


Good read, +1


----------



## pvsampson

Thanks,ordered a few of those clips.


----------



## wolf_walker

That (seemingly) huge hotspot is interesting, I deff think I'm going to have to try out a TLR light and see how it compares.


----------



## Prepped

So I've just figured out how the timer function works. It'll only work for the period you have the light on, which I like. A lot of guys are asking if you can disable it, and the short answer is that you don't need to, but rather you can activate it when you need it. When the light is on, two quick presses of the button will make the light flash either once (3 minute timer), or twice (9 minute timer), and after that timer has expired the light will then turn off. This is handy if you are using it as say a camp light, you get into your sleeping bag, and don't want to get back out to turn the light off. It's a handy feature and I'm glad they've included it. 

By the way, my flickering has completely disappeared. I swear on my life, I tried everything when I first got the light - tightened the tailcap threads, cleaned the threads, tried different batteries, you name it. I'm still holding onto the theory that it was the switch to blame that has now gotten worn in and fixed the issue. That, or someone up above got tired of listening to me whining and complaining about it and decided to fix it for me 

Anyways...


----------



## saypat

... so, the timer can be activated from any mode of brightness then? Great. Perfect.


----------



## Prepped

saypat said:


> ... so, the timer can be activated from any mode of brightness then? Great. Perfect.



That is correct


----------



## Albinoni1967

akhyar said:


> I'm afraid I've no idea at all. Fingers crossed it is compatible.
> I'll let you know once I received both.
> I also have a couple of AW protected 16340 to try once I received the light.
> 
> Did some further readings and found that Olight RCR123 is about 33.7mm length while the Keeppower is 35.6mm length, so there is a cause for concern here


But seriously will 2mm make much of a difference


----------



## akhyar

Albinoni1967 said:


> But seriously will 2mm make much of a difference



I hope not, as I think the springs at both ends will absorb the 1-2mm differences in CR/RCR123 length.
But until I received the light and the batteries, I can never be sure.


----------



## Prepped

akhyar said:


> I hope not, as I think the springs at both ends will absorb the 1-2mm differences in CR/RCR123 length.
> But until I received the light and the batteries, I can never be sure.




Should be just fine, the springs on the S1 appear to have plenty of give to them to accommodate for that.


----------



## bjt3833

chuckhov said:


> I like that they seemed to have fixed that sickly tint that most of the S models have.
> 
> Looks like I'm gonna have to get one, when they come down in price. ($35-$40)
> 
> Thanks,
> -CHuck



I bought mine for $39 from going gear during their current anniversary sale.


----------



## monanza

For those who do not mind the wait, checkout dazed1's thread in the GB forum.


----------



## ForrestChump

This thing is insane.


----------



## swan

Can anybody confirm max output using both cr123a [3v] and a rcr123a [3,7v] with a meter or lmd?
Can both cells achieve 500 lumens?


----------



## Trevilux

swan said:


> Can anybody confirm max output using both cr123a [3v] and a rcr123a [3,7v] with a meter or lmd?
> Can both cells achieve 500 lumens?



500 lumens is for rechargeable 3.7 V.
for primary CR123a is 300 lumens.


----------



## swan

Thanks, i found the manual contradicts itself and i thought this might be the case. Mine arrives tomorrow and i will measure it on my lmd vs a zl sc52 with an AW rcr123 and report my examples performance.


----------



## onthebeam

300 lumens on Cr123 would be my guess after subjective comparisons with my other torches. It gets hot fast! Second to highest setting a bit warm, too. Although my eagletac is titanium, said not to be a great heat conductor, it handles the heat better, more metal...

Not too major for me as I won't blast this light often.


----------



## Tixx

Not sure which is best, but if the outside gets hot, that may be a sign heat is moving out of the light faster possibly.


----------



## WarRaven

I'd prefer heat exit, not be contained.
Ymmv obviously.


----------



## Trevilux

Trevilux said:


> 500 lumens is for rechargeable 3.7 V.
> for primary CR123a is 300 lumens.



Perhaps I must edit my info.
500 lumens 1,5 minutes and after 90 minutes-300 lumens with CR123A primary lithium.
500 lumens 1,5 minutes and after 60 minutes-300 lumens with RCR123A rechargeable.

On my User Manual says: timer 9 minutes and 3 minutes, on Olight web says timer 10 minutes and 3 minutes. I have measured on my unit 9 minutes and 3 minutes.


----------



## TIP AND RING

Mine arrived yesterday, what a petite performer. I fully expect to see this light on many a Every Day Carry thread in the near future. Here's hoping for a CR2 version in red HA3


----------



## gunga

Onthebeam, any pix of the trits?

Edit: I see what you mean now. I plan on using two 1.5 x 6mm trits. You can always try 2x8 if they fit.


----------



## swan

Just got mine- wow , great ui,beam and tint. Using a AW rcr123 protected cell i measured the following;
Measured peak throw at 3263 lux at 1m [measured at 5m and converted to 1 metre.] 
Turn on - 552 lumens
At 1min 29 secs - 512 lumens 
At 1 min 30 stepdown slowly
At 2 min 30 steady reg at 270lumens
At 5 mins steady reg at 270 lumens- end test
Tested against a zebralight sc 52 in same lmd, which showed 488lumens at 30 secs using a 14500 nitecore cell.
I dont claim 100% accuracy in my measurements all estimates are based on well known tested lights which i own.
One other thing, even on the 3rd reset of high it still maintains 500 + lumens until stepdown - very good driver.


----------



## AFearlessBirdOfParadise

Anyone do a tritium insert yet?


----------



## swan

After my first test run i changed the battery and noticed that the + tailcap spring triangular base was not fully seated in its slot. Pushed it into place and retested for an even better result-
590 LM at start
300 lm at step down rock solid
Ran it with two different AW cells now and fully repeatable.


----------



## onthebeam

gunga said:


> Onthebeam, any pix of the trits?
> 
> Edit: I see what you mean now. I plan on using two 1.5 x 6mm trits. You can always try 2x8 if they fit.



I'm going to follow your guidance on this Gunga. I ordered one 1.5 x 6 trit and some Norland. As I wrote, without trit in hand, even after careful measuring, I can't tell if a trit sticking out more than a few mm will not be flush with rounded body. Perhaps could be dremeled down a little but I've never done this type of surgery. A 2 x 8mm would show 3 mm on each side of the lanyard support but I think that 2mm may be too thick. 

Gunga, when do you estimate you'll have light in hand and ready to add your tritium?


----------



## onthebeam

swan said:


> After my first test run i changed the battery and noticed that the + tailcap spring triangular base was not fully seated in its slot. Pushed it into place and retested for an even better result-
> 590 LM at start
> 300 lm at step down rock solid
> Ran it with two different AW cells now and fully repeatable.




Swan, did you time elapsed when it stepped down?

How long can you hold it on high before it feels too hot? 

Mine is brighter on high than any of my 123 lights, but warm very fast on highest so I couldn't foresee any more than brief use on high. With the rcr I can imagine you are feelin the heat as well?


----------



## swan

onthebeam said:


> Swan, did you time elapsed when it stepped down?
> 
> How long can you hold it on high before it feels too hot?
> 
> Mine is brighter on high than any of my 123 lights, but warm very fast on highest so I couldn't foresee any more than brief use on high. With the rcr I can imagine you are feelin the heat as well?



At start 590lm
At 1 min 30 secs [still 545lmn] then it steps down over the next 1 minute and settles right on 300 lm, where it stays flat regulated, only gone for 10 mins so far.
As far as heat,sure it warms up quickly but settles to warm after step down [ 1.5 min] with the heat dispersed evenly through out the light.
At no stage does it feel overly hot [ my sc600 gets hotter] but i was hanging on to the light putting it on and off my lmd for 10 min and would have no hesitation running it for its duration in you hang on to it.
Really liking this tiny light.


----------



## onthebeam

swan said:


> At start 590lm
> At 1 min 30 secs [still 545lmn] then it steps down over the next 1 minute and settles right on 300 lm, where it stays flat regulated, only gone for 10 mins so far.
> As far as heat,sure it warms up quickly but settles to warm after step down [ 1.5 min] with the heat dispersed evenly through out the light.
> At no stage does it feel overly hot [ my sc600 gets hotter] but i was hanging on to the light putting it on and off my lmd for 10 min and would have no hesitation running it for its duration in you hang on to it.
> Really liking this tiny light.




I did an informal test with regular cr123s with light standing. Came back 5 minutes later and light was too hot to hold on highest setting. As I wrote earlier, not a deal killer but a less high highest setting might be more practical, all things considered. Yet, it does impress!


----------



## swan

onthebeam said:


> I did an informal test with regular cr123s with light standing. Came back 5 minutes later and light was too hot to hold on highest setting. As I wrote earlier, not a deal killer but a less high highest setting might be more practical, all things considered. Year it does impress!


I never use primaries but i will pick one up and see what output it gets.
I agree you should not leave it [ or any hp light] tail standing unattended on the highest level but in your hand alot of the heat gets wicked away. When it completes it [2.5 min ] step down its probably only pulling max 600-700 ma of current to achieve its 300lmn. I too would of liked another output level but in actual use the spacing seems fine though in real use . I guess as a little edc most of the time i have been using the med level as the tir optic really projects a nice big hotspot and how many times have we heard " there is not much difference between med and high" - no such problem here.


----------



## Prepped

For those following my issue, I've resolved it. At first I wanted to attribute my flickering to the switch, but as it turns out, and as another CPFer pointed out, the tailcap really has to be on tight. I'd checked it originally and really clamped down on it, but I guess on my S1 you REALLY have to clamp down on this tailcap. I ended up taking a tool to tighten it, and the flickering went away. Now, I'm very happy with the performance / UI of the light.


----------



## gunga

Hi onthebeam. My s1 has not even shipped yet, so at least 1-4 weeks. I tried a diamond file to smooth the edges of a trit. Quickly killed.it. Won't try that again. These dead trits end up costing a lot!


----------



## Prepped

I tried for the sake of experimentation to run mine on a primary CR123, for ten minutes on high. I watched the beam closely and could notice the step down, but the light never got too hot to handle. This is my first side-switch light - I'm a rear clicky kind of guy, even for EDC lights, but this little guy was too tempting to pass up. I'm very impressed by this versatile little tool. +1 Olight!


----------



## swan

Prepped said:


> I tried for the sake of experimentation to run mine on a primary CR123, for ten minutes on high. I watched the beam closely and could notice the step down, but the light never got too hot to handle. This is my first side-switch light - I'm a rear clicky kind of guy, even for EDC lights, but this little guy was too tempting to pass up. I'm very impressed by this versatile little tool. +1 Olight!


I am glad you sorted your issue and now are enjoying your s1 and wondering out loud if your tail cap spring is seated correctly, i found the start of the spring [ triangular base leg] sitting above the slot on my one and just had to push it back in.
I like you Prepped, am very impressed.


----------



## Prepped

swan said:


> I am glad you sorted your issue and now are enjoying your s1 and wondering out loud if your tail cap spring is seated correctly, i found the start of the spring [ triangular base leg] sitting above the slot on my one and just had to push it back in.
> I like you Prepped, am very impressed.



Cheers, mate. I just didn't want to leave people wondering if I ever got it sorted out, which would be unfair to Olight. This thing really is a pocket rocket, but is well made, and has a great UI. If you're reading this and thinking about getting one, do it!! I actually apologized to Olight (who responded very quickly to my E-mail). I was just so angry at the time, because I was convinced after much tinkering that I'd received a dud.


----------



## UnderPar

Prepped said:


> Cheers, mate. I just didn't want to leave people wondering if I ever got it sorted out, which would be unfair to Olight. This thing really is a pocket rocket, but is well made, and has a great UI. *If you're reading this and thinking about getting one, do it!!* I actually apologized to Olight (who responded very quickly to my E-mail). I was just so angry at the time, because I was convinced after much tinkering that I'd received a dud.



I just did....... lovecpf


----------



## pvsampson

Mine arrived,but one thing I am not sure of.Is it supposed to have an actual lens under the bezel? Or is it just the reflector and led? (which mine is)


----------



## swan

pvsampson said:


> Mine arrived,but one thing I am not sure of.Is it supposed to have an actual lens under the bezel? Or is it just the reflector and led? (which mine is)


This light has a TIR [ Total internal reflection] optic, all good.


----------



## pvsampson

Cool,thanks. My "noobness" is showing.

Great little light.


----------



## swan

pvsampson said:


> Cool,thanks. My "noobness" is showing.
> 
> Great little light.


Hey Pete, glad to help- lots of threads on these lenses here and i like how the S1 projects a unique giant round spot which is really nice in an edc.


----------



## BobbyMK

Just ordered mine, could not wait to arrive, my first CR123 light and from the comments and some videos Ive seen i have very big expectations for this one, hope it wont disappoint me.


----------



## WarRaven

Yes this looks usable.
I want some lol.


----------



## L.N.

My Olight S1 arrived! First thoughts: tiny! Tiny!. Of course i knew the size before ordering, but it looks and feels even smaller. The flashlight is very light and weighs only 30 grams. But it feels sturdy and is well made. The machining and anodising is of high quality. The blue acccents are really nice
The beam has a big hotspot, making it quite floody. The spill in’t that bright. The color of the light is white, but not as white as my Nitecore P12.











Looking at the lanyard, it makes you realise how small the light is. 











Nice detail on the packaging. The rubber bands that hold the light are the spare O-rings.






Springs on both the tail cap and the main body. This prevents the battery from moving around, but also allows for different size CRC123’s or CR123’s.










Nice details in the tail cap. If you remove the tail cap, then the battery sticks to the tails, because of the magnetic cap.






The battery is in reverse in comparison with most other light. Olight uses the same direction in the S30R II. 






Strong and sturdy clip to hold the S1 in place. It can be removed or placed in the other direction. The clips is then 2 mm’s longer then the light.


----------



## onthebeam

Nice comments NL.


----------



## Tixx




----------



## antouan

Tixx said:


>


Are these 2 lights comparable in any way?


----------



## Tixx

antouan said:


> Are these 2 lights comparable in any way?


Have you read the specs of each light?


----------



## antouan

Tixx said:


> Have you read the specs of each light?


Just did[emoji106]


----------



## Outlander

Thanks for those pics Tixx.

very helpful.

:thumbsup:


----------



## Tixx

antouan said:


> Just did[emoji106]


Just let me know if you have questions though. I would have grab them had you not seen them.


----------



## antouan

Tixx said:


> Just let me know if you have questions though. I would have grab them had you not seen them.


S1 is more compact but the Zebra has better runtime. Any idea which has more flood?


----------



## Tixx

antouan said:


> S1 is more compact but the Zebra has better runtime. Any idea which has more flood?


S1


----------



## WarRaven

No offence but that button looks like a crud collector.

Or just have lots of rabbits in your pockets?
☺


----------



## Tixx

WarRaven said:


> No offence but that button looks like a crud collector.
> 
> Or just have lots of rabbits in your pockets?
> ☺


Yeah, a stickier rubber. Pocket Lint loves it.


----------



## WarRaven

Ugh, I've got a light like that, it gets its teeth brushed every other day. 👍☺


----------



## 100eyes

Prepped said:


> So I've just figured out how the timer function works. It'll only work for the period you have the light on, which I like. A lot of guys are asking if you can disable it, and the short answer is that you don't need to, but rather you can activate it when you need it. When the light is on, two quick presses of the button will make the light flash either once (3 minute timer), or twice (9 minute timer), and after that timer has expired the light will then turn off. This is handy if you are using it as say a camp light, you get into your sleeping bag, and don't want to get back out to turn the light off. It's a handy feature and I'm glad they've included it.
> 
> By the way, my flickering has completely disappeared. I swear on my life, I tried everything when I first got the light - tightened the tailcap threads, cleaned the threads, tried different batteries, you name it. I'm still holding onto the theory that it was the switch to blame that has now gotten worn in and fixed the issue. That, or someone up above got tired of listening to me whining and complaining about it and decided to fix it for me
> 
> Anyways...



You should try letting the light warm up on turbo, then see if the flickering in moonlight mode is back.

My first Olight M3XS-UT had the exact same moonlight flickering issue.


----------



## Tixx

WarRaven said:


> No offence but that button looks like a crud collector.
> 
> Or just have lots of rabbits in your pockets?
> ☺


The pic it looks terrible, but just looking at it in hand it does not look as bad.


----------



## WarRaven

Quantum mechanics, if you only look at it, its not bad.
But if you record or picture it, its a frenzied mess of particulate. 

Is it the eye's acquisition in person or the image sensors capture an secondary playback ☺

Get a brush an have non of that before aliens come for you
over simple dust bunnies tracks. 
Yes I spent too much time alone today, sorry for O/T.☺


----------



## gunga

Can someone take a picture with the clip reversed?


----------



## WarRaven

gunga said:


> Can someone take a picture with the clip reversed?


Take a look at Candle lamps review...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/407781

Courtesy of Candle Lamps Review.







Cheers


----------



## gunga

Thanks. Doesn't look great.


----------



## WarRaven

I'm not keen on clip, but for wearing on my ball cap.
I mean on my S10Rs, so I took clip off. 
Broke one recently too, does not like flexing much ☺


----------



## Tixx

Just took the magnet out. Falls right out once the spring is removed. Just didn't want it near my phone. Was easy and now weighs less too.


----------



## firsttothescene

Hello everyone, this is my first post. I just joined CPF after a few years of reading about flashlights here. I just wanted to say I may get the s1, the TIR is like my nitecore sens mini. This s1 is nice and small like my new nitecore ec11. Again, hello to everyone and I am glad to be a part of CPF.


----------



## Ned-L

Mine arrived yesterday. Of course I had to see this light a couple of weeks after purchasing the 3rd light in too short of a time period. I couldn't resist one more light (really, no more for a good while, maybe if I stay away from here for a while  ) It looked like my ideal very small, carry in any kind of pants (including dress pants), EDC. Well, it exceeds my expectations for a small light. I don't think I have been more impressed with the design and UI of another small light. I really like the UI. It is really well thought out. I am still trying to decide whether to remove the clip as I carry it loose in pants/shorts pockets. Although, I with the clip I find it may be a little easier to find the switch without looking - what are other people doing - clip or no clip?


----------



## Tixx

Ned-L said:


> Mine arrived yesterday. Of course I had to see this light a couple of weeks after purchasing the 3rd light in too short of a time period. I couldn't resist one more light (really, no more for a good while, maybe if I stay away from here for a while  ) It looked like my ideal very small, carry in any kind of pants (including dress pants), EDC. Well, it exceeds my expectations for a small light. I don't think I have been more impressed with the design and UI of another small light. I really like the UI. It is really well thought out. I am still trying to decide whether to remove the clip as I carry it loose in pants/shorts pockets. Although, I with the clip I find it may be a little easier to find the switch without looking - what are other people doing - clip or no clip?


I agree. Great edc. Hits a sweet spot. Debated the clip as you are right, easier to find the switch. Removed it anyways because it is easier to pocket that way.


----------



## swan

Clip on at 180 degrees- i find it wont roll away, gives a little more purchase and agree its much easier to find the switch first go.
The switch is very good - i have not had any accidental activations in my pants or shirt pockets, great little light.


----------



## TIP AND RING

Didn't keep the clip on, but a square of Flik Grip, GITD grip tape, on the bezel, just above the switch, makes finding the switch much easier.


----------



## sandalian

Mail call!







Just receive this tiny flashlight from GearBest, the size is almost identical to Quark Mini 123.


----------



## saypat

I keep pushing the button in all different ways trying to get it to go into other modes that it doesn't have. It nice, but I prefer the Nitecore EC11.


----------



## Tixx

sandalian said:


> Mail call!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just receive this tiny flashlight from GearBest, the size is almost identical to Quark Mini 123.


Have a side by side pic? I don't have one anymore to compare.


----------



## Tixx

saypat said:


> I keep pushing the button in all different ways trying to get it to go into other modes that it doesn't have. It nice, but I prefer the Nitecore EC11.


Yeah, press and hold is OK. Click to change feels a little more in control I think. Wish the ec11 had a lower moonlight mode though.


----------



## onthebeam

firsttothescene said:


> Hello everyone, this is my first post. I just joined CPF after a few years of reading about flashlights here. I just wanted to say I may get the s1, the TIR is like my nitecore sens mini. This s1 is nice and small like my new nitecore ec11. Again, hello to everyone and I am glad to be a part of CPF.



Welcome, FOTS. You'll find the S1 to be much smaller than the EC11, about 3/4 inch.


----------



## onthebeam

TIP AND RING said:


> Didn't keep the clip on, but a square of Flik Grip, GITD grip tape, on the bezel, just above the switch, makes finding the switch much easier.



Sounds like a smart idea. I'm going with some tritium near the tail but glow tape near the switch is a great idea.

I searched for the Flik GITD tape online but couldn't find that type. Can you point us to it?


----------



## Marfenix

firsttothescene said:


> Hello everyone, this is my first post. I just joined CPF after a few years of reading about flashlights here. I just wanted to say I may get the s1, the TIR is like my nitecore sens mini. This s1 is nice and small like my new nitecore ec11. Again, hello to everyone and I am glad to be a part of CPF.



Hello firsttothescene! :welcome:


----------



## TIP AND RING

onthebeam said:


> Sounds like a smart idea. I'm going with some tritium near the tail but glow tape near the switch is a great idea.
> 
> I searched for the Flik GITD tape online but couldn't find that type. Can you point us to it?



I'm looking forward to your tritium install, the Flik Griptape can be sourced via E-bay and Amazon. Ebay is usually much cheaper. The product is roughly 8x24 inches. IIRC. Great hold on clean surfaces. I would like to use a hole punch slightly smaller than the switch, and place a dot on the switch itself. But, I don't know for certain what reaction that strong adhesive would have on the S1 button over time.


----------



## antouan

Tixx said:


> Yeah, press and hold is OK. Click to change feels a little more in control I think. Wish the ec11 had a lower moonlight mode though.


+1 for the lower moolight mode[emoji17]


----------



## Hoekjor

Prepped said:


> Cheers, mate. I just didn't want to leave people wondering if I ever got it sorted out, which would be unfair to Olight. This thing really is a pocket rocket, but is well made, and has a great UI. If you're reading this and thinking about getting one, do it!! I actually apologized to Olight (who responded very quickly to my E-mail). I was just so angry at the time, because I was convinced after much tinkering that I'd received a dud.



Just because you and others have said to do so, I'm going to. 

Thank you all! For all the input on the pocket rocket!


----------



## NorthernStar

I have just received my S1, and here is a comparison picture.





To the left is the S10R and to the right is the S1 in comparison to a matchbox.

So far i like the S1, but i can´t find any really use of the timer function.:thinking: I think that Olight should have kept the lockout function instead of the timer function like on the previous versions. Regarding the button, it is not as recessed as on the S10R. So far no accidental activation, but i think that Olight should have kept the same button as the S10R on S1.

Overall i like this little light though so far!


----------



## WarRaven

Great picture NS!
That shows how small it is very well.
I'm happy with how small S10R is, the S1 that's prettying slick.
On want list official, others have been moved.


----------



## Prepped

I'm about to put mine through it's paces. The real reason I bought it was because it comes in at 1.6oz battery installed. We're doing some amphibious landing exercises tomorrow, so we'll see if it can hold up. I'm not going to baby this light.


----------



## dts71

WarRaven said:


> Courtesy of Candle Lamps Review.



Looking at the picture, it seems they reversed the battery. Why did they do that?? :shakehead
It would really confuse me in the dark, trying to change battery and put it in "backwards".
I'll stick with my S10.


----------



## candle lamp

dts71 said:


> Looking at the picture, it seems they reversed the battery. Why did they do that?? :shakehead
> It would really confuse me in the dark, trying to change battery and put it in "backwards".
> I'll stick with my S10.



According to the Olight's explanation, they could reduce the total length of the light, thanks to backwards battery orientation. It's not difficult to insert the cell into the light in the dark actually. Also don't worry about reverse insertion, the S1 has a reverse polarity protection function.


----------



## Tixx

dts71 said:


> Looking at the picture, it seems they reversed the battery. Why did they do that?? :shakehead
> It would really confuse me in the dark, trying to change battery and put it in "backwards".
> I'll stick with my S10.


Yeah, it is protected anyways so not much an issue harming the light.


----------



## dts71

candle lamp said:


> According to the Olight's explanation, they could reduce the total length of the light, thanks to backwards battery orientation. It's not difficult to insert the cell into the light in the dark actually. Also don't worry about reverse insertion, the S1 has a reverse polarity protection function.



I was thinking why they gave up the winning concept of positive end first. Thanks for the information of the reasoning behind the change!
I guess I could live with the change if I pull the trigger on this one. After all, they did a great job on reducing the size.


----------



## radiopej

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



NorthernStar said:


> Great find!
> 
> Hope to have more info about it soon.I wonder what sideswitch they are using, if it´s the recessed or the protruding button like the one on the old baton series?:thinking: The text says that it has a soft silicon button, but i can not see if it is recessed or not. I really hope it´s a recessed button like the ones on the S10R,S15R,S20R and the S30R series.


I'm with you on this. I want the recessed switch. In the photo it looks like it juts out a little. That was pretty much my only real issue on the S10 because it would accidentally activate.


----------



## swan

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



radiopej said:


> I'm with you on this. I want the recessed switch. In the photo it looks like it juts out a little. That was pretty much my only real issue on the S10 because it would accidentally activate.


 On the S1 even though it looks to protrude slightly it wont change modes or turn on even when placed directly on a hard surface/table etc. So far not a single activation in a week of pocket carry and i have not needed to locked it out at the tail cap.


----------



## radiopej

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



swan said:


> On the S1 even though it looks to protrude slightly it wont change modes or turn on even when placed directly on a hard surface/table etc. So far not a single activation in a week of pocket carry and i have not needed to locked it out at the tail cap.


Thanks!!


----------



## Prepped

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Well, I'm back from what was quite possibly the most miserable field op I've ever been on. We hit the beaches about fifty or so yards off of the shoreline, and had to wade to shore with our packs. I had the S1 in my pocket. Once it got dark out, we had to mount our NVG's onto our kevlars, but it was too dark to see, and it's a real PITA to do completely by touch. I had my S1 in moonlight mode, but 0.5 lumens in total blackoutt conditions is still far too bright - I had to use my fingers to obscure the total output. We then spent the next three days getting absolutely poured on, in thick brush. My sleeping bag got soaked, and I've gotten six hours of sleep over the past three days. Not good. The S1 never once activated in my pocket, and take my word for it, if this thing was susceptible to pocket activation, it would have done it this weekend. When it came time to head out, we were able to use our flashlights, and other Marine's were astounded at the S1. It held up like a champion.


----------



## snowlover91

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

Awesome write up thanks for sharing that with us! The fact that it never once activated in your pocket and held up through all of that is a major accomplishment. Can't wait for my copy to arrive, should be here in a few weeks.


----------



## wolf_walker

*Re: *new* Olight S1*

They should seriously use "survived Marine landing" as a marketing point. It says a lot to me.
Thank you Sir.


----------



## WarRaven

Good read Prepped.
+1


----------



## UnderPar

*Re: *new* Olight S1*



Prepped said:


> Well, I'm back from what was quite possibly the most miserable field op I've ever been on. We hit the beaches about fifty or so yards off of the shoreline, and had to wade to shore with our packs. I had the S1 in my pocket. Once it got dark out, we had to mount our NVG's onto our kevlars, but it was too dark to see, and it's a real PITA to do completely by touch. I had my S1 in moonlight mode, but 0.5 lumens in total blackoutt conditions is still far too bright - I had to use my fingers to obscure the total output. We then spent the next three days getting absolutely poured on, in thick brush. My sleeping bag got soaked, and I've gotten six hours of sleep over the past three days. Not good. The S1 never once activated in my pocket, and take my word for it, if this thing was susceptible to pocket activation, it would have done it this weekend. When it came time to head out, we were able to use our flashlights, and other Marine's were astounded at the S1. It held up like a champion.




:twothumbs:twothumbs


----------



## Overclocker

*Re: *new* Olight S1*


----------



## sandalian

Tixx said:


> Have a side by side pic? I don't have one anymore to compare.



Sure, here's Quark Mini 123 and Olight S1 Baton, side by side.


----------



## Joe Talmadge

Thanks for the pic, that is pretty crazy -- Quark mini-sized with a pushbutton switch and 500ish lumens!


----------



## Tixx

sandalian said:


> Sure, here's Quark Mini 123 and Olight S1 Baton, side by side.


Thanks! Cool to see. Damn this thing is tiny!


----------



## mckeand13

Is a neutral version being offered?


----------



## GoingGear.com

mckeand13 said:


> Is a neutral version being offered?



No, and I doubt it will be unless a dealer orders 500+ of them. They never sell even remotely as well as cool white.


----------



## Hoekjor

Tixx said:


> Thanks! Cool to see. Damn this thing is tiny!



Wait until you actually pick one up and hold it. It's as light as a feather.


----------



## Prepped

My only real gripe about this light right now, is the pocket clip. It gets snagged when putting it on and taking it off.


----------



## Tixx

Hoekjor said:


> Wait until you actually pick one up and hold it. It's as light as a feather.


Oh I got one. Take the magnet out to drop more weight.


----------



## gunga

I'm getting one and will try to mod it to neutral.


----------



## Outlander

Got one from goinggear.com but found out it was back ordered. Hopefully they get more in soon.

looks like a great little light.


----------



## monanza

I find the tint quite pleasant. No hint of red, blue, or green. A little cooler than neutral, more a natural white is my guesstimate.

EDIT: If we get a group buy together for a neutral or warm white, . This is a great light at any CCT (still more testing to do but first impression is really good).


----------



## Tixx

gunga said:


> I'm getting one and will try to mod it to neutral.


Trying to coax Vinh!


----------



## TIP AND RING

Been carrying the S1, loose, rotating it between pockets, for the past couple of days. No clip. It resides with keys, coins, fishing gear, battered Vic Explorer knife, waterproof lighter, sea glass and sand. No accidental activations at all. I expected a perforated button, but no. This light really stirs some old school CPF spirit for me. The optics, the CR123 cell, the tiny size, the stellar regulation...... and a Chums brand floating keychain means it will NOT sink.


----------



## Tixx

You carry sand?


----------



## Ned-L

I have been carrying the S1 since it arrived last Tuesday. I carried it with the clip for a couple of days, but decided that it didn't serve any purpose for me since I prefer to carry it loose in my pants pocket. This is my favorite EDC. The size is perfect - small enough for just about any pocket. I think the interface is one of the best in terms of functionality. Get directly to moonlight or maximum from off, remembers the last output mode including moonlight, easy to use strobe mode, and easy to change between modes. My only complaint is that I like it so much that I am neglecting all my other recently purchased lights


----------



## moshow9

monanza said:


> I find the tint quite pleasant. No hint of red, blue, or green. A little cooler than neutral, more a natural white is my guesstimate.
> 
> EDIT: If we get a group buy together for a neutral or warm white, . This is a great light at any CCT (still more testing to do but first impression is really good).


I'm with Mo on a group buy for warm white, or neutral. Of course, in reality that would still be very unlikely given the amount required to be ordered per Marshall above.

That said, I'm looking forward to Mike's future attempt to mod one and the outcome.


----------



## Tixx

Outlander said:


> Got one from goinggear.com but found out it was back ordered. Hopefully they get more in soon.
> 
> looks like a great little light.



They did the same thing to me with an Armytek light. Just sent me the cool version of a light that I ordered in warm and come to find out the warm is not in stock (which I correctly ordered). SMH


----------



## TIP AND RING

Tixx said:


> You carry sand?



Doesn't everyone?


----------



## wolf_walker

All the reasons you folks list for liking this light are the same reasons I like my s10r so much.  Looking forward to playing with the new one.


----------



## sandalian

Tixx said:


> Oh I got one. Take the magnet out to drop more weight.


I might gonna try this, although I'm not sure how significant the weight difference is.


----------



## Tixx

sandalian said:


> I might gonna try this, although I'm not sure how significant the weight difference is.


Probably only a 16th of an ounce.


----------



## Hoekjor

Ordered mine from illumn.com. They have in stock and fast shipping. Very pleased.


----------



## Trevilux

For protect my S1:


----------



## WarRaven

There that holster... I want a couple lol.👍


----------



## Overclocker




----------



## recDNA

sandalian said:


> Mail call!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just receive this tiny flashlight from GearBest, the size is almost identical to Quark Mini 123.


Is there a keychain loop?


----------



## Tixx

recDNA said:


> Is there a keychain loop?


Yes


----------



## recDNA

A neutral version would be nice in a keychain. I wish my sc32w had a similar eyelet.
Thanks for the photo


----------



## Tixx

recDNA said:


> A neutral version would be nice in a keychain. I wish my sc32w had a similar eyelet.
> Thanks for the photo


Yeah, but when they tried neutral it was green instead.


----------



## recDNA

Nichia 219C would be neutral. XP-G2 4000k. Something like that.


----------



## onthebeam

Had first issue tonight with the Olight S1.

The light cut out a couple of times. Hit switch again on and off until it turned on normally.

Seems to be screwed on tight. Will keep an eye on it but have never had this occur before.


----------



## WarRaven

On high output by chance?


----------



## Overclocker

gunga said:


> I'm getting one and will try to mod it to neutral.



seems to be press fit bezel. s10 threaded

zebralight style then. shouldn't be a problem


----------



## gunga

You sure?


----------



## NorthernStar

Trevilux said:


> For protect my S1:



Where did you get that nice holster? It was not included with my S1 package.


----------



## akhyar

NorthernStar said:


> Where did you get that nice holster? It was not included with my S1 package.



He bought it from Gearbest.
The S1 package doesn't come with holster, so yours is fine.


----------



## onthebeam

WarRaven said:


> On high output by chance?



No, the problem started in low and my guess is that it's switch related.


----------



## gunga

Can anyone confirm if the bezel is press fit? I have not received my light.


----------



## WarRaven

onthebeam said:


> No, the problem started in low and my guess is that it's switch related.


Dang.
Checked and rechecked tightness of tail cap too?


----------



## onthebeam

WarRaven said:


> Dang.
> Checked and rechecked tightness of tail cap too?



Yes. Hasn't happened again today.


----------



## swan

I have been using some older AW rcr123 protected to run my Olight S1 and thought it might be time to get some new ones. 
So i bought 2 pairs of IMR Efest and AW cells 550mah to see how they go- 
After a charge and discharge and charge again both the AW and Efest are 4.14volts.
I ran the light on its highest mode with a small fan until finished.
Efest 63 mins drops out of regulation finished at 66mins in strobe mode.
AW 56 mins drop out of regulation finished at 59 mins in strobe.
The AW protected cell shut off completely at 36 mins only lower levels avail after this.
There was little difference in brightness between all 3 cells with the IMR,s able to achieve 600 lumens at start measured on lmd and lux metre. 
Very impressed that the Efest cell actually exceeded the olight run time claim. 
This little Olight S1 is very hard to fault and really easy to like.
Max throw 3300cd


----------



## gopajti




----------



## wolf_walker

Great little light. The big spot with little to no spill is very cool. Seems brighter than my s10r, heats up fast on high but hey...


----------



## akhyar

Does it stays on "High 500 lumens " until the 25 minutes, or it drops to "High 300 lumens" after 1.5 minutes like what is stated in the brochure?


----------



## gopajti

akhyar I tested real 500 lumen mode without step down, this is the reason why I restart the light every 1.5 minutes


----------



## akhyar

gopajti said:


> akhyar I tested real 500 lumen mode without step down, this is the reason why I restart the light every 1.5 minutes




Ah! Got it!
Now I just noticed the interval of every 1.5 minute


----------



## bent1

I just got this light, and some new Olight 650 mah batteries. I think the 650's may not be the best choice for this light. The batteries are shutting themselves off, well, quicker than I would like them to when running on high. Then I need to do a tail cap reseat to get the light to come back on. I'm certainly not getting 1/2 hour of high mode runtime...


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

My S1 should be coming in tomorrow. 

I bought it to replace my polished titanium S10, but then I just saw this 






It's up on the Russian Olight website. No price yet, but I guess it's coming!


----------



## Marfenix

HerecomestheBoom said:


> My S1 should be coming in tomorrow.
> 
> I bought it to replace my polished titanium S10, but then I just saw this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's up on the Russian Olight website. No price yet, but I guess it's coming!



If only, if only......Wow! That I would buy!


----------



## kj2

Cool!  maybe a Sandblasted version too? Like they did with the S30.


----------



## Tixx

Looks nice! Extra heat buildup, lack of twist cap lockout and weight kills it for me though.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

No sign of a bead-blasted version.

Am I allowed to post a link here..?

http://olight-russia.ru/product-category/s-series-ruchnye-edc-fonari/

If not I sincerely apologize.

Hi Tixx





Did you got rid of your titanium S10's then? 

I've never really had a problem with heat with my ti S10, but I've only used it with primaries (thinking about switching to rechargeables now) and I'm more a low-mode user anyway.


----------



## Tixx

HerecomestheBoom said:


> No sign of a bead-blasted version.
> 
> Am I allowed to post a link here..?
> 
> http://olight-russia.ru/product-category/s-series-ruchnye-edc-fonari/
> 
> If not I sincerely apologize.
> 
> Hi Tixx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you got rid of your titanium S10's then?
> 
> I've never really had a problem with heat with my ti S10, but I've only used it with primaries (thinking about switching to rechargeables now) and I'm more a low-mode user anyway.



Hey Boom!

I did get rid of the polished Ti. It has such a nice tint though! I hold a bead blasted triple nichia still that kinda just sits in its box.


----------



## onthebeam

Tixx said:


> Looks nice! Extra heat buildup, lack of twist cap lockout and weight kills it for me though.



The clicky is well designed. As I wrote in my mini review, not likely to turn on in pocket. If worried you can twist the cap a bit to make sure it won't engage.


----------



## Tixx

onthebeam said:


> The clicky is well designed. As I wrote in my mini review, not likely to turn on in pocket. If worried you can twist the cap a bit to make sure it won't engage.


I was referring to the Ti version in the pic that was posted. Won't be able to twist the tail for lockout.


----------



## bent1

What do you guys think would be a better battery for this light than the Olight 650mAh?


----------



## akhyar

bent1 said:


> What do you guys think would be a better battery for this light than the Olight 650mAh?



I don't have the Olight battery to try, but I'm using AW 750mAh in my S1 and so far everything is working fine.
Although I never run it on high for more than half an hour as the body becomes hot to hold, I've never encounter shutting down problem so far.
I have the AW batteries for more than 3 years and they still maintain their charge and the internal resistance are still low, having tested them using Opus BT C3100 analyzing charger.


----------



## bent1

I'll have to check the voltage of one next time its doing that. It just seems to me that the battery is turning itself off too soon, as the light is still blasting brightly 
It happens when just turning on the light also, when the battery's are low. 
I'm new to the flashaholic hobby, and maybe my expectations are out of whack...


----------



## onthebeam

Tixx said:


> I was referring to the Ti version in the pic that was posted. Won't be able to twist the tail for lockout.



Why would this work any differently in a ti version?


----------



## Tixx

onthebeam said:


> Why would this work any differently in a ti version?


I think has to do with the ano on the aluminum. I have s10s in both and lox out only works on the aluminum.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

Tixx said:


> Hey Boom!
> 
> I did get rid of the polished Ti. It has such a nice tint though! I hold a bead blasted triple nichia still that kinda just sits in its box.




Ah, good to hear you kept at least one!

I still dig my ti S10 even though mine just has the original not so perfect tint, but the weight does make it very noticeable in pocket indeed.

I can lock it out though, but you have to unscrew the tail-cap so far that it's almost entirely loose.

But, non of that matters any longer:











Now it's time to put on some tight jeans and go for a bicycle ride to to see how keen it is to turn itself on, I hope it gets dark soon!


----------



## Marfenix

HerecomestheBoom said:


> Ah, good to hear you kept at least one!
> 
> I still dig my ti S10 even though mine just has the original not so perfect tint, but the weight does make it very noticeable in pocket indeed.
> 
> I can lock it out though, but you have to unscrew the tail-cap so far that it's almost entirely loose.
> 
> But, non of that matters any longer:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now it's time to put on some tight jeans and go for a bicycle ride to to see how keen it is to turn itself on, I hope it gets dark soon!



That should be no problem! I have been carrying my S1 in the little coinpocket of my jeans (without the clip) for more than 2 weeks now. I ride my bicycle every day and it never accidentally turned itself on.


----------



## dc38

The packaging seems to include 2 orings to hold the light in.


----------



## Kilovolt

dc38 said:


> The packaging seems to include 2 orings to hold the light in.



Just one in my case and it is not mentioned in the list of contents.


----------



## onthebeam

HerecomestheBoom said:


> Ah, good to hear you kept at least one!
> 
> 
> Now it's time to put on some tight jeans and go for a bicycle ride to to see how keen it is to turn itself on, I hope it gets dark soon!




Well . . . It doesn't impress in the jeans as some torches might.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

So far so good :thumbsup:

It is barely unnoticeable in pocket compared to the "old" S10 by the way.

I'm not too worried about it coming on in pocket though. It happened only once with my S10 in the 2 years I carried it and I'm still not entirely certain it wasn't already on when I put it in my pocket that time.

So far I like everything about the S1. Being able to turn it on in high-mode with a double-click is also a really nice feature, especially when you normally keep your light in low- or moonglow-mode like me.




Kilovolt said:


> Just one in my case and it is not mentioned in the list of contents.




Mine came with two. 

They were holding the light to the cardboard in the package. Luckily I had already read about that before it arrived because otherwise it would have been very likely that I'd cut them up to get the light out quickly. They should put that on the packaging with a big warning imo.


----------



## Jiri

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Found my answer here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Olight-S1-Baton-Review&p=4742260#post4742260 

(((I bought this beaufiful tiny but powerful light few days ago. But I still wonder and I am a bit confused, if the highest mode (500 lumen) is really only for 1,5 minutes of runtime from fresh charged battery, and after that you have only 300 lumen and you can not get those 500 lumens again with the same battery, or are those 1,5 minutes is just runtime for heat-protection of the light, but after a while in off mode, you can get those 500 lumen again?)))


----------



## TacticalFanatic

Help with my new Olight S1. I took delivery of my S1 three days ago and have a concern. First off I started with a fresh Energizer cell. I ran a test to see if in fact I would see a stepdown in lumens at the 1.5 minute mark when on turbo mode. I ran the test four times and did not see any change in brightness after several minutes on each test. Is this normal? Or do I have a faulty model that starts out at 300 lumens with no 500 output?


----------



## dts71

TacticalFanatic said:


> Help with my new Olight S1. I took delivery of my S1 three days ago and have a concern. First off I started with a fresh Energizer cell. I ran a test to see if in fact I would see a stepdown in lumens at the 1.5 minute mark when on turbo mode. I ran the test four times and did not see any change in brightness after several minutes on each test. Is this normal? Or do I have a faulty model that starts out at 300 lumens with no 500 output?



Check this from a review: http://s1199.photobucket.com/user/khk0603/media/Olight S1 - 2015/S-24-1.jpg.html

It's not a sharp step down but rather a slow decrease during first 30s and then another decrease over 1 minute.

Full review: http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=29036


----------



## TacticalFanatic

dts71 said:


> Check this from a review: http://s1199.photobucket.com/user/khk0603/media/Olight S1 - 2015/S-24-1.jpg.html
> 
> It's not a sharp step down but rather a slow decrease during first 30s and then another decrease over 1 minute.
> 
> Full review: http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=29036



Awesome. Thank you DTS71.


----------



## smokinape

HerecomestheBoom said:


> My S1 should be coming in tomorrow.
> 
> I bought it to replace my polished titanium S10, but then I just saw this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's up on the Russian Olight website. No price yet, but I guess it's coming!


Wow, that looks great...


----------



## swan

The S1 ti looks great, i noticed more pics on banggood, it has the limited serial number on the battery cap and the brand printing looks good. 
Going to be hard to resist this shiny one, after being so impressed with the normal S1, i contacted my local dealer to declare my interest and he has them on order with no delivery date as yet.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

swan said:


> The S1 ti looks great, i noticed more pics on banggood, it has the limited serial number on the battery cap and the brand printing looks good.
> Going to be hard to resist this shiny one, after being so impressed with the normal S1, i contacted my local dealer to declare my interest and he has them on order with no delivery date as yet.




It does look good but I really hope it comes with a NW LED like they did with the titanium S10, preferably without the greenish tint of course.

Did anyone manage to successfully mod a S1 to NW yet?


----------



## swan

HerecomestheBoom said:


> It does look good but I really hope it comes with a NW LED like they did with the titanium S10, preferably without the greenish tint of course.
> 
> Did anyone manage to successfully mod a S1 to NW yet?


The tint is perfect on my sample.


----------



## Tixx01

HerecomestheBoom said:


> It does look good but I really hope it comes with a NW LED like they did with the titanium S10, preferably without the greenish tint of course.
> 
> Did anyone manage to successfully mod a S1 to NW yet?


Vinh should have them coming out molded soon.


----------



## Tixx01

swan said:


> The tint is perfect on my sample.


To each their own, but the tint of these lights are cool and not neutral.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

swan said:


> The tint is perfect on my sample.




Sorry for the confusion, I was referring to the greenish tint of my old ti S10, nothing wrong with the tint of the S1 (as long as you like white).


----------



## swan

HerecomestheBoom said:


> Sorry for the confusion, I was referring to the greenish tint of my old ti S10, nothing wrong with the tint of the S1 (as long as you like white).


 Agreed.
In some of my lights that range from 4500k- 6700k , which have a normal parabolic reflector set up, i see a yellow or green in the corona, which is obvious and annoying next to a white hotspot. I think this can be attributed to a mix of things- led dome, tint, focal point, the design of the reflector and some funky AR coating on the lens.
With the S1 one of its greatest assets is the big hot spot and the way the tir optic does an outstanding job of of emitting the same white through out the width of the beam, with out any visible tint shift. I hope my ti one is exactly the same .


----------



## Ruudr

Wow, so just opened the package and the light is flawless. Feels great in the hand, is light weight and the PVD coating looks great. The only question I have is why there are 2 magnets? One is in the tailcap and one in glued inside the cardboard package where the lanyard is rolled up. Why?


----------



## freeride21a

Ruudr said:


> Wow, so just opened the package and the light is flawless. Feels great in the hand, is light weight and the PVD coating looks great. The only question I have is why there are 2 magnets? One is in the tailcap and one in glued inside the cardboard package where the lanyard is rolled up. Why?




I got mine a week ago, and i had the o-ring holding the top of the light, and the magnet in the package was placed to hold the bottom of the light instead of a second o-ring like others have received. that is the only reason it is there in my opinion.


----------



## phosphor

Are there any beam shots comparing the S1 to the S10 XM-L2 (NOT the S10R!).....the stats between the two seem so close? Only difference seems to be the optics and a bit shorter length. Are the throw and beam profile that significantly different between the S1 and S10 XM-L2 ? 

Thanks for any help on this.


----------



## freeride21a

phosphor said:


> Are there any beam shots comparing the S1 to the S10 (NOT the S10R!).....the stats between the two seem so close? Only difference seems to be the optics and a bit shorter length. Are the throw and beam profile that significantly different between the S1 and S10?
> 
> Thanks for any help on this.




I only have the S1, but from what I have seen, they are very different. The S1 is a wall of light with no hotspot.. it is all hotspot. For example, I can pretty much evenly light up 3/4 of the house across the street.

It is a great work light, which is what I got it for, doing IT stuff where I need light.


----------



## phosphor

freeride21a said:


> I only have the S1, but from what I have seen, they are very different. The S1 is a wall of light with no hotspot.. it is all hotspot. For example, I can pretty much evenly light up 3/4 of the house across the street.
> 
> It is a great work light, which is what I got it for, doing IT stuff where I need light.


 Thanks for your reply! So if your working up close, it's pretty much a wash I would imagine. Distance is where one would see the difference? The reason I ask, is I'm sort of interested in the new S1...but don't want to just "duplicate" my S10 XM-L2, save for the TIR optics and a slight bit of length. I guess the timer thing is unique, but can't see using that much.


----------



## freeride21a

phosphor said:


> Thanks for your reply! So if your working up close, it's pretty much a wash I would imagine. Distance is where one would see the difference? The reason I ask, is I'm sort of interested in the new S1...but don't want to just "duplicate" my S10 XM-L2, save for the TIR optics and a slight bit of length. I guess the timer thing is unique, but can't see using that much.




Here is a shot at full power, the gate is about 25-28ft away.


----------



## phosphor

freeride21a said:


> Here is a shot at full power, the gate is about 25-28ft away.


..Thank you....VERY helpful !!!


----------



## Psychomodo

If I found a way to attach a convex lens to the front of the S1 would it be a good "thrower"?


----------



## Albinoni1967

Hey guys really need some help here and not sure if this is normal. Today I received my new Olight S1 Baton and the problem I'm having is that when I go to switch off the torch it does not switch off completely and goes to a very very low mode probably moonlight mode. The only way I can completely turn it off is by slightly unscrewing the back cap, I'm not sure if this is normal


----------



## Tixx

No, not normal


----------



## Albinoni1967

Sorry forgot to say but this low mode is much lower than moonlight mode so it's not moonlight but much lower


----------



## akhyar

Albinoni1967 said:


> Sorry forgot to say but this low mode is much lower than moonlight mode so it's not moonlight but much lower




Not normal.


----------



## UnderPar

Not normal at all! Hope you can have that issue fix coz S1 is really a great light for me.


----------



## akhyar

Overclocker said:


> is the keeppower 16340 compatible with the S1? if i remember right the S10 isn't (requires an rcr123a w/ the same length as a cr123a like the olighr rcr123a)



I need to answer this query as I've just received the Keeppower battery.
The Keeppower RCR123 is indeed longer than normal CR123 and some other RCR123 such as Olight, AW and Soshine.
Frrm my non scientific measurement using normal ruler, roughly it is about 1 to 2mm longer.

It can fit into the S1, and the S1 can operate as per normal, but it is a tight fit and need to push the tailcap harder when trying to screw it.
For long term use, not sure if it will give problem to the springs inside the S1 but as it is, it can fit into the S1


----------



## CyBuzz

Just ordered an S1 and can't wait for it to show up on saturday.


----------



## WarRaven

akhyar said:


> I need to answer this query as I've just received the Keeppower battery.
> The Keeppower RCR123 is indeed longer than normal CR123 and some other RCR123 such as Olight, AW and Soshine.
> Frrm my non scientific measurement using normal ruler, roughly it is about 1 to 2mm longer.
> 
> It can fit into the S1, and the S1 can operate as per normal, but it is a tight fit and need to push the tailcap harder when trying to screw it.
> For long term use, not sure if it will give problem to the springs inside the S1 but as it is, it can fit into the S1


Akhyar, that sounds like it's too tight.
Might be crushing PCB on that new Keeppower cell?

Not that I haven't crushed cells lol, yup I most certainly have just not in this light.☺


----------



## akhyar

WarRaven said:


> Akhyar, that sounds like it's too tight.
> Might be crushing PCB on that new Keeppower cell?
> 
> Not that I haven't crushed cells lol, yup I most certainly have just not in this light.☺



Indeed it is too tight, but not sure if in the long term it will crush the cell PCB as I can screw the cap all the way down, but with stiff resistance.
As of right now, I'm using my old AW 16340 inside the S1


----------



## WarRaven

I wouldn't, as explained to me.
It might work with PCB crushed into cell, though will PCB work when it's supposed to, like cut off power at low voltage or not short itself out and be bypassed altogether.
Yeah pure fear, but we don't know if it's crushing it safely or not so FUD is fitting.(Fear uncertainty and Doubt)


----------



## WarRaven

Wait a second, isn't there a magnet in tail cap you can remove from inside?


----------



## akhyar

WarRaven said:


> Wait a second, isn't there a magnet in tail cap you can remove from inside?



I have no intention to remove the tail cap magnet, as I like the function as it is.
So maybe when I'm bored, I can try the Keeppower battery wihout the tail magnet


----------



## WarRaven

I understand, was just a thought. Cheers.


----------



## gunga

TIP AND RING said:


> I'm looking forward to your tritium install



This is really for onthebeam. I did the trit on the lanyard slot of an S15R. My S1 still had not arrived. I used a single 6mm trit. It took several tries to get the finish I wanted but that is because I was being picky (note: don't use old norland, you will regret it). 

I'm planning to do the same thing to the S1 when it arrives.


----------



## firsttothescene

Had the S1 for a few days now.... it is awesome!! This is my 1st Olight and I think it is a VERY high quality light. I think it looks better with the clip on. And like everyone else, I can't believe how tiny it is. Very cool light, really glad I bought it.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

Tixx01 said:


> Vinh should have them coming out molded soon.





I must have missed this post last time I was on.

I've seen that name mentioned before but when I google him all I get is more forum posts mentioning the guy.

Can you tell me who this Vinh is and how to get in touch with him perhaps?


----------



## tab665

HerecomestheBoom said:


> I must have missed this post last time I was on.
> 
> I've seen that name mentioned before but when I google him all I get is more forum posts mentioning the guy.
> 
> Can you tell me who this Vinh is and how to get in touch with him perhaps?



he has a subforum here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?140-Vinhnguyen54
or you can go straight to his modded olight S1 page here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?408032-S1vn-Nano-Searchlight

a warning.... be careful of the rabbit hole your about to go down.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

tab665 said:


> he has a subforum here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?140-Vinhnguyen54
> or you can go straight to his modded olight S1 page here http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?408032-S1vn-Nano-Searchlight
> 
> a warning.... be careful of the rabbit hole your about to go down.




Thanks for the links....and warning, haha.

I just want a slightly warmer version and then I'll be done buying lights for a while, otherwise the S1 is perfect for me.

The 4000K version sounds nice but I think I'll wait till Tixx receives his and see how he likes them. His advice has always been very helpful to me so I'll trust his judgement on this one too.


----------



## Kletsou

Albinoni1967 said:


> Sorry forgot to say but this low mode is much lower than moonlight mode so it's not moonlight but much lower



Did you manage to sort this? What was wrong?


----------



## onthebeam

gunga said:


> This is really for onthebeam. I did the trit on the lanyard slot of an S15R. My S1 still had not arrived. I used a single 6mm trit. It took several tries to get the finish I wanted but that is because I was being picky (note: don't use old norland, you will regret it).
> 
> I'm planning to do the same thing to the S1 when it arrives.
> 
> View attachment 1201


 Thanks! Exactly what I had in mind. Waiting on trit and off to Hong Kong for two weeks so will work on it later in the month.


----------



## Tixx




----------



## HerecomestheBoom

Tixx said:


>



Woot, that was quick!

Which is the one on the right and will there be beam shots?

Which one you like best so far?


----------



## CyBuzz

well, it showed up on Saturday with my 12-pack of surefire batteries. I have to say, i love it. the UI is nice, it is perfectly sized and bright. I did have to remove the magnet from the tailcap. i didnt want it in my pocket with credit cards for fear of messing them up and when I put it in my other pocket it kept waking up my phone. tried it with the clip and that worked but doesnt work for my weekday dress @ work.


----------



## Jiri

Hello guys. Have anyone noticed, that Olight changed package in first few months after release? I got one flashlight that had on package 25 days of runtime, and than another Olight S1 from different seller and there is 40 days of runtime on package. Also, in the package with 25 days specified, there is only 1 spare o-ring holding the flashlight, but on the package with 40 days runtime specified there are 2 spare o-rings. What the hell??? Does any one noticed this, is there already some upgrade version released, or what? see pictures http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/UT8zSvRXB4aXXagOFbX9.jpg 
http://g04.a.alicdn.com/kf/UT81J2TXyNXXXagOFbXf.jpg 

Thanks for any ideas.


----------



## Tixx

HerecomestheBoom said:


> Woot, that was quick!
> 
> Which is the one on the right and will there be beam shots?
> 
> Which one you like best so far?


Goes from left to right in all shots: stock, 5000k, 4000k and 2900k.

Have to see when I get a chance as I have never done beam shots, but will attempt. This is what I had to me for throughout the day yesterday. 

Let me get back to you on what I like best. Still comparing. I will note that the 2900k is something I do not like if looking in a fall setting which had begun here (makes plants and leaf litter all blend togetber) . BUT I do like the 2900k extremely well for around the house and office because it does very well showing colors of items. So I will get back to you on more of my thoughts.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

Tixx said:


> Goes from left to right in all shots: stock, 5000k, 4000k and 2900k.
> 
> Have to see when I get a chance as I have never done beam shots, but will attempt. This is what I had to me for throughout the day yesterday.
> 
> Let me get back to you on what I like best. Still comparing. I will note that the 2900k is something I do not like if looking in a fall setting which had begun here (makes plants and leaf litter all blend togetber) . BUT I do like the 2900k extremely well for around the house and office because it does very well showing colors of items. So I will get back to you on more of my thoughts.




Oh man, I just wanted to get one more, but a really warm one for lighting up a tent or a room & a less warm one for EDC is starting to sound tempting now. I guess this is what tab665's warning was about..  

Thanks so far and keep us posting please.

ps: I've never done a beam shot neither.. 





gunga said:


> This is really for onthebeam. I did the trit on the lanyard slot of an S15R. My S1 still had not arrived. I used a single 6mm trit. It took several tries to get the finish I wanted but that is because I was being picky (note: don't use old norland, you will regret it).
> 
> I'm planning to do the same thing to the S1 when it arrives.
> 
> View attachment 1201



Thanks for sharing your idea!


----------



## Tixx

See if these assist. I'll try for better tonight. 

Stock S1






5000k





4000k 





2900k


----------



## Prepped

Jiri said:


> Hello guys. Have anyone noticed, that Olight changed package in first few months after release? I got one flashlight that had on package 25 days of runtime, and than another Olight S1 from different seller and there is 40 days of runtime on package. Also, in the package with 25 days specified, there is only 1 spare o-ring holding the flashlight, but on the package with 40 days runtime specified there are 2 spare o-rings. What the hell??? Does any one noticed this, is there already some upgrade version released, or what? see pictures http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/UT8zSvRXB4aXXagOFbX9.jpg
> http://g04.a.alicdn.com/kf/UT81J2TXyNXXXagOFbXf.jpg
> 
> Thanks for any ideas.



It actually says '40 hours' of runtime. I'm sure it was just an oversight. I have the 40 hours packaging, that came with two spare orings that were holding the light in place.


----------



## swan

Prepped said:


> It actually says '40 hours' of runtime. I'm sure it was just an oversight. I have the 40 hours packaging, that came with two spare orings that were holding the light in place.



I think Olight made an error with the earlier packaging quoting the low level of 8 lumens at 40 hours instead of the moonlight level of 0.5 lumens at 25 days.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

Tixx said:


> See if these assist. I'll try for better tonight.




Thanks, that'll work :thumbsup:

There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of difference between the 4000 & the 5000K, is that the same irl or is that just the pic?

Would you happen to have a BLF mini version of the Trustfire mini by the way? It has an XM-L T6 which looks very close to your 5000K pic but I don't really know exactly what tint it is.

So can you just contact Vinh and ask for any LED that you like or are there only a few LEDs that will work in the S1?


----------



## kjd2121

Just received my 3 Olight S1's today. Awesome tiny light. Using rechargeable AW ICR123 batteries. COOL!!!


----------



## write2dgray

Shockingly good light. Ups the bar for all makers.


----------



## Prepped

My only gripe with the UI, is that I wish if I kept it in low, and used a double press to get to high, it would return to low when I single pressed the next time. Other than that, I agree. It's an awesome light.


----------



## kjd2121

How do I get this light to strobe?


----------



## mikethebike

kjd2121 said:


> How do I get this light to strobe?


From on triple press.


----------



## Prepped

kjd2121 said:


> How do I get this light to strobe?



While the light is on, in any mode, triple click the button.


----------



## dazed1

For the guys who didn't manage to get this light...

Enjoy.


----------



## Tixx

HerecomestheBoom said:


> Thanks, that'll work [emoji106]
> 
> There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of difference between the 4000 & the 5000K, is that the same irl or is that just the pic?
> 
> Would you happen to have a BLF mini version of the Trustfire mini by the way? It has an XM-L T6 which looks very close to your 5000K pic but I don't really know exactly what tint it is.
> 
> So can you just contact Vinh and ask for any LED that you like or are there only a few LEDs that will work in the S1?



There is definitely a difference between the 5000k and 4000k. Going from a slightly blue 5000k over to a slightly brown 4000k. Maybe the pic is not showing it as well as I see it. 

Since you mention BLF light... I have an A6 18650 from the recent group buy and it has the 5A led choice which is extremely close to this 4000k. More so than it is to the 5000k.

Vinh is open to led choices. He knows what will and will not work in certain lights. Everything in mine are XML2 platform, just the Temps are different.


----------



## Tixx

HerecomestheBoom said:


> Thanks, that'll work [emoji106]
> 
> There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of difference between the 4000 & the 5000K, is that the same irl or is that just the pic?
> 
> Would you happen to have a BLF mini version of the Trustfire mini by the way? It has an XM-L T6 which looks very close to your 5000K pic but I don't really know exactly what tint it is.
> 
> So can you just contact Vinh and ask for any LED that you like or are there only a few LEDs that will work in the S1?


What do you mean by same irl?


----------



## Tixx

Tixx said:


> There is definitely a difference between the 5000k and 4000k. Going from a slightly blue 5000k over to a slightly brown 4000k. Maybe the pic is not showing it as well as I see it.
> 
> Since you mention BLF light... I have an A6 18650 from the recent group buy and it has the 5A led choice which is extremely close to this 4000k. More so than it is to the 5000k.
> 
> Vinh is open to led choices. He knows what will and will not work in certain lights. Everything in mine are XML2 platform, just the Temps are different.


And I think the reflections on the table better represent the difference between 5000k and 4000k.


----------



## LetThereBeLight!

PM sent, thank you.


----------



## curry__muncha

dJippe said:


> I wonder how durable new lens is? Here is graph from valostore with cr123a battery, they use labsphere fs2 in their measurements.



Seems that the output from a rechargeable is a lot less than the claimed 300 Lumens



Added: Also, a NW option would be ideal


----------



## antouan

Received yesterday my S1, really incredible light...I would like to use rechargables in it. Which one is better ICR123 or IMR123 , for better output /runtime? Any ideas?


----------



## kj2

IMR is only needed when you need more power than usual. Regular RCR's will do fine


----------



## antouan

kj2 said:


> IMR is only needed when you need more power than usual. Regular RCR's will do fine


Thanks for the tip. Should I go for the Olight ones,AW or Keeppower ones? [emoji57]


----------



## akhyar

antouan said:


> Thanks for the tip. Should I go for the Olight ones,AW or Keeppower ones? [emoji57]



Get the Olight or AW ones. The Keeppower are a bit on the long side, so might be or might not be taxing to the cell PCB or light's spring in the long run.
Between the Olight and AW, I'd take the AW.
My AW 16340 which I'm using in my S1 is still going strong since 2012/13


----------



## antouan

akhyar said:


> Get the Olight or AW ones. The Keeppower are a bit on the long side, so might be or might not be taxing to the cell PCB or light's spring in the long run.
> Between the Olight and AW, I'd take the AW.
> My AW 16340 which I'm using in my S1 is still going strong since 2012/13


Thanks appreciate the help! !


----------



## kj2

Olight or AW indeed


----------



## WarRaven

I capacity tested my Olight RCR123, both came in just under spec of 650mah.
Just saying they seem to good cells.


----------



## Overclocker

akhyar said:


> Get the Olight or AW ones. The Keeppower are a bit on the long side, so might be or might not be taxing to the cell PCB or light's spring in the long run.
> Between the Olight and AW, I'd take the AW.
> My AW 16340 which I'm using in my S1 is still going strong since 2012/13




AW 16340. mystery cell  just saying

same goes w/ the olight


----------



## akhyar

Overclocker said:


> AW 16340. mystery cell  just saying
> 
> same goes w/ the olight



Have you removed the wrapper on AW 16340 and see what is underneath? 
So far the only AW cell that Andrew openly declared is the NCR18650B which he uses in AW 18650 3400mAh.


----------



## Overclocker

akhyar said:


> Have you removed the wrapper on AW 16340 and see what is underneath?
> So far the only AW cell that Andrew openly declared is the NCR18650B which he uses in AW 18650 3400mAh.










this is the latest version without the metal strip down the side. the capped version. so i didn't bother stripping since there would be no inner wrapper

627mah at 200mA BTW...


----------



## akhyar

Thanks for the photo.
Is the Olight's PCB at the bottom or top of the cell?
When I stripped Olight 3400 cell, the PCB is at the top and the NCR18650B wrapper is intact


----------



## WarRaven

Now I'm tempted to rip open a couple, though I've no wrappers to return them to service.


----------



## Overclocker

akhyar said:


> Thanks for the photo.
> Is the Olight's PCB at the bottom or top of the cell?
> When I stripped Olight 3400 cell, the PCB is at the top and the NCR18650B wrapper is intact




this the "capped" version. there's a thread somewhere regarding this. the PCB is on the + end. so there's no need for that metal strip running down the side


----------



## akhyar

Overclocker said:


> this the "capped" version. there's a thread somewhere regarding this. the PCB is on the + end. so there's no need for that metal strip running down the side



Ah! Got it!
Maybe newer Olight's protected cells will be the "capped" version as the Olight 3400 that I stripped naked was using quite recent batch of 18650B cell as shown from the date stamp


----------



## Jiri

swan said:


> I think Olight made an error with the earlier packaging quoting the low level of 8 lumens at 40 hours instead of the moonlight level of 0.5 lumens at 25 days.




Thank you guys for your answers!


----------



## ponger

I've been carrying the S1 in shorts pockets for several weeks now and have had two unintentional activations. One with coins in the pocket and one with keys in the pocket along with the light.


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

Tixx said:


> And I think the reflections on the table better represent the difference between 5000k and 4000k.




That looks good, doesn't make the choice any easier though, haha.

Thanks man, & for the info in your other post as well :thumbsup:

IRL was short for "in real live" by the way, but you already answered that question before knowing it's meaning.


On another note; did you guys see the new S10R already? I think this means there won't be a S1R in the immediate future after all? Odd...


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

ponger said:


> I've been carrying the S1 in shorts pockets for several weeks now and have had two unintentional activations. One with coins in the pocket and one with keys in the pocket along with the light.




Mine has been in my pocket for almost 3 weeks now, without the clip and having the pocket all to itself I haven't had a single unintentional activation so far.


----------



## firsttothescene

I would never put my s1 in with keys or change, I want to keep it pristine


----------



## UnderPar

firsttothescene said:


> I would never put my s1 in with keys or change, I want to keep it pristine



Plus 1 to this. But of course its a personal preference. All my EDC lights are still in prestine condition..


----------



## Prepped

UnderPar said:


> Plus 1 to this. But of course its a personal preference. All my EDC lights are still in prestine condition..



Can't say I subscribe to this train of thought, but to each their own. I personally find it more aesthetically pleasing when a piece of gear has signs of wear, and use. 
I also need to know that my gear won't fail me when I need it, so I don't baby it. That being said, I don't go out of my way to abuse it, either haha


----------



## Marfenix

Prepped said:


> Can't say I subscribe to this train of thought, but to each their own. I personally find it more aesthetically pleasing when a piece of gear has signs of wear, and use.
> I also need to know that my gear won't fail me when I need it, so I don't baby it. That being said, I don't go out of my way to abuse it, either haha



:thumbsup: Totally agree Prepped!


----------



## Tixx

HerecomestheBoom said:


> That looks good, doesn't make the choice any easier though, haha.
> 
> Thanks man, & for the info in your other post as well :thumbsup:
> 
> IRL was short for "in real live" by the way, but you already answered that question before knowing it's meaning.
> 
> 
> On another note; did you guys see the new S10R already? I think this means there won't be a S1R in the immediate future after all? Odd...



Safe bet in my opinion is the 4000k.


----------



## tokerblue

Can you describe how you secured the tritium in the lanyard slot. Norland, superglue?


----------



## gunga

Norland. I also filled up the slot holes so the trit is well protected.


----------



## write2dgray

What is the difference between the Olight S11R and S1? Specs appear identical .


----------



## firsttothescene

Any ideas when the ti version will be available?


----------



## Mike81

Here's some pics of my new S1:


----------



## Ryp

Those are some great photos, Mike.


----------



## Tixx

Seriously! Those photos are great!


----------



## Mike81

Thanks guys!

Few more:

Olight S1


----------



## Mike81

Some photos in natural environment.

Beam shots coming tonight.

Olight S1 Baton


----------



## kj2

Great photos Mike  Thnx


----------



## Mike81

Thank you, sir!


----------



## shine the way

Wow. Really nice pictures from a nice looking light. Someone must have a very nice camera with knowledge on how to properly use it! In other words... nice shots as others have stated.


----------



## Mike81

Wow, there's already pretty cold outside. It was +1 °C / 33 °F... 

Anyway, here's some beamshots of Olight S1 Baton:


----------



## Jiri

Mike81 said:


> Wow, there's already pretty cold outside. It was +1 °C / 33 °F...
> 
> Anyway, here's some beamshots of Olight S1 Baton:



Great pictures! Thanks for that!


----------



## curry__muncha

I'm loving the wide hotspot. Makes it very usable in close quarters.


----------



## 2000xlt

mine has not come yet but i know i'll need too do something about a bezel down clip. Any ideas


----------



## Danielsan

Nice light but without low voltage protection and no voltage indicator its a no go. With a small capacity cell like this you need low voltage protection. Dont know why they dont used the low voltage indicator here


----------



## KeepingItLight

Danielsan said:


> Nice light but without low voltage protection and no voltage indicator its a no go. With a small capacity cell like this you need low voltage protection. Dont know why they dont used the low voltage indicator here



Good point. On Li-ion, you need to pay attention.

On CR123A, my guess is that turbo mode pulls more amps than the battery is rated for. Here is my post from one of the review threads:



KeepingItLight said:


> I wonder about current draw running on a CR123A primary.
> 
> With his *Zebralight SC32w* flashlight in H1 mode (the highest mode), CPF member recDNA measured current draw from his CR123A battery at 2.2-2.4 amps. Presumably, the *Olight S1's * turbo mode would be in the same ballpark. Unfortunately, that is significantly higher than most CR123A batteries are rated for. The maximum continuous discharge current for a typical CR123A battery is only 1.5 amps.
> 
> For this reason, recDNA decided to stop using the H1 mode. The lower modes work fine, with current demands below the 1.5 amp threshold.
> 
> Has anyone measured the current drawn from a fresh CR123A battery in turbo mode on the Olight S1? I would love to hear what you are getting.


----------



## curry__muncha

sweet pics btw Mike81!

Found this on Olight's instagram:


----------



## kj2

curry__muncha said:


> sweet pics btw Mike81!
> 
> Found this on Olight's instagram:



http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?410025-S1-Baton-COPPER


----------



## Speedfreakz

I just got my s1 and did not care for the clip. I tried bending the tip open more and it snapped off at the bend
Overall I like the light but I reversed the clip so the light points down and wanted it to clip into the corner of my jeans pocket and when I reach in with my thumb I could pull it out and turn it on. I'm also thinking I would like to put some surgra or something to make a "bump" to help find the button better. Any thoughts on this?


----------



## TacticalFleshlight

I'm sure a small drop of almost any epoxy would do the trick. Or maybe even a drop of that thicker gel super glue? Anything with enough viscosity to stay domed while it cured.


----------



## dazed1

Mike81 said:


> Some photos in natural environment.
> 
> Beam shots coming tonight.
> 
> Olight S1 Baton



Hi, what camera is that? photos are sick!


----------



## antouan

Speedfreakz said:


> I just got my s1 and did not care for the clip. I tried bending the tip open more and it snapped off at the bend
> Overall I like the light but I reversed the clip so the light points down and wanted it to clip into the corner of my jeans pocket and when I reach in with my thumb I could pull it out and turn it on. I'm also thinking I would like to put some surgra or something to make a "bump" to help find the button better. Any thoughts on this?


I just put a small piece of grip tape in order to find the button easier [emoji6]


----------



## Jiri

Tixx said:


>





Really... why there are always these small but very noticeable differences in the tint of the same type of LED in high quallity flashlight... what is the theory and practice here, that when I buy 7 Olight S1 flashlights and every flashlight has a little different tint, as shown on the pictures? I really wonder. I also got 2 Fenix PD35 with different tints, or 3 Fenix PD22 UE with different tints? 

The manufactures can't really ensure the same coating of the LED with every piece they do? Even though... why there can be so noticeable differences? They control the quallity, faults, LUX and Lumens, check for any differences but they don't really check/control the final tint of the flashlight that hits the market.


----------



## Tixx

Jiri said:


> Really... why there are always these small but very noticeable differences in the tint of the same type of LED in high quallity flashlight... what is the theory and practice here, that when I buy 7 Olight S1 flashlights and every flashlight has a little different tint, as shown on the pictures? I really wonder. I also got 2 Fenix PD35 with different tints, or 3 Fenix PD22 UE with different tints?
> 
> The manufactures can't really ensure the same coating of the LED with every piece they do? Even though... why there can be so noticeable differences? They control the quallity, faults, LUX and Lumens, check for any differences but they don't really check/control the final tint of the flashlight that hits the market.


Stock led is on the left. The other 3 are modified.

Stock, 5000k, 4000k and 2900k high CRI.


----------



## Jiri

Tixx said:


> Stock led is on the left. The other 3 are modified.
> 
> Stock, 5000k, 4000k and 2900k high CRI.




Ok, I can understand that, but I really have 7 peices of Olight S1, and 2 of those 7 have a more neutral white beam, copmared to the other 5... no modifications done. Nobody else noticed any differences?


----------



## 2000xlt

can someone post a pic of the clip reversed?


----------



## Mike81

dazed1 said:


> Hi, what camera is that? photos are sick!



Thanks!

Camera is Nikon D600 with Sigma 50mm/f1.4 lens.


----------



## TacticalFleshlight

2000xlt said:


> can someone post a pic of the clip reversed?



I'd also like to see


----------



## firsttothescene

Copper or ti s1? Pros, con's of each?


----------



## AstroZombee

2000xlt said:


> can someone post a pic of the clip reversed?


----------



## 2000xlt

Thanks very much!


----------



## TacticalFleshlight

Perfect thanks


----------



## Oztorchfreak

I am finding it hard to quickly find the button on the S1.

In the daytime I can see where the button is but at night forget it.



CHEERS


----------



## Prepped

Oztorchfreak said:


> I am finding it hard to quickly find the button on the S1.
> 
> In the daytime I can see where the button is but at night forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CHEERS



Try aligning the clip directly on the other side of the light. It helps me. Also a gripe I have with side switch activated lights, but a small inconvenience, especially for an EDC light where I don't need the light immediately. While on duty, a rear clicky is a must, for me.


----------



## markr6

Jiri said:


> Ok, I can understand that, but I really have 7 peices of Olight S1, and 2 of those 7 have a more neutral white beam, copmared to the other 5... no modifications done. Nobody else noticed any differences?



Unfortunately that happens with all/most manufacturers. I don't expect them to spend the time to scrap an emitter just because it's not the same as another, but it would be nice! I really like consistency, which is a total curse for this hobby!


----------



## Arctonaut

I freakin' love this little light. A Streamlight microstream has been my default, go-to mini-light for a while, but the S1 has bumped it down into the reserves. 

So much utility in such a small light! :thumbsup:


----------



## Prepped

So, with the recent release of the S10R II Baton, what's the likelihood we'll get a rechargeable S1 Baton? Anyone on in the 'in' that has some input?


----------



## ncristia

Just received S1 put in a fresh efest16340 positive end toward tail cap and nothing.
Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for any assistance.


----------



## Tixx

ncristia said:


> Just received S1 put in a fresh efest16340 positive end toward tail cap and nothing.
> Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for any assistance.


Heard earlier there was a tightening quite hard to make it work issue.


----------



## firsttothescene

Is end fully tightened? Did you try another battery? Does battery have a clear seal over it?


----------



## ncristia

tightened has much as possible tried 3 new fully charged batteries no seal on batteries. Thank you for he quick responses.


----------



## Prepped

For those weight watchers out there, I took some quick measurements

Empty with pocket clip - 30g / 1.058oz
Surefire primary CR123 and pocket clip - 47g / 1.657oz
Empty without pocket clip - 25g / 0.881oz
Surefire primary CR123 without pocket clip - 42g / 1.481oz

I don't have any 16340's on hand at the moment, sorry guys.

Also, another user had asked that I take an amperage reading at maximum output, and I got around 1.8 amps, even fluctuating as high as 1.9 amps
A little worrying seeing as primary CR123's can safely put out around 1.5amps continuously.


----------



## worrptangl

I just ordered one of these to throw into the EDC mix. Lots of good info here I can't wait for it to arrive!


----------



## markr6

Great light. I want to like it. But a clip that sticks out like 1/3 as wide as the entire light itself? Can't get over that.


----------



## firsttothescene

markr6 said:


> Great light. I want to like it. But a clip that sticks out like 1/3 as wide as the entire light itself? Can't get over that.


 take off the clip &#55357;&#56832;


----------



## markr6

firsttothescene said:


> take off the clip ��



I like my clips. Loose in the bottom of a pocket, turning sideways? Even worse!

Nice flush screw-on deep carry clip would have been perfect.


----------



## Jiri

markr6 said:


> Unfortunately that happens with all/most manufacturers. I don't expect them to spend the time to scrap an emitter just because it's not the same as another, but it would be nice! I really like consistency, which is a total curse for this hobby!



Yeap, thanks for your comment. But it is really wierd that manufactures of these LED's can't really do that consistency you are talking about  Bodies of the flashlight can look pretty much the same with every peice, but they can't manage LED's and it is just a lucky pick, if you get more neutral white or more cool white LED on the same flashlight  I have noticed that also the beam dispersion is pretty much different on every single of my Olight S1... one is more spread, second is more focused, some of them are not centred well enough. Nonetheless, I just love this little light


----------



## weklund

Just Pre Ordered a Bead Blasted Ti S1 Neutral from Going Gear.

$71.16 out the door with coupon code ... SPOOKINESS

Nice looking light.


----------



## Prepped

^Jealous. If you have access to a decent scale, any chance you could weigh it? Uncle Sam doesn't seem to care how heavy our gear is, so whatever personal items we take like flashlights and knives, I like to try to find the absolute lightest I possibly can, in what is probably a futile attempt to save my back and knees, haha.


----------



## crojoe

Love this light. Will wait for the copper version. Does anybody know when it'll be available.


----------



## onthebeam

weklund said:


> Just Pre Ordered a Bead Blasted Ti S1 Neutral from Going Gear.
> 
> $71.16 out the door with coupon code ... SPOOKINESS
> 
> Nice looking light.



Nice. Pricey though. It should come down


----------



## Speedfreakz

markr6 said:


> Great light. I want to like it. But a clip that sticks out like 1/3 as wide as the entire light itself? Can't get over that.



Flip the clip around. I also tried to straightened the end of mine and it snapped off. Shorter now


----------



## firsttothescene

Why is the output of the ti light 480 lumens? (Battery junction site)


----------



## gunga

Neutral tint LED has slightly lower output.


----------



## firsttothescene

Going gear says neutral white yet lists 550 lumens? (Ti)


----------



## firsttothescene

gunga said:


> Neutral tint LED has slightly lower output.


 battery junction states it is cool white


----------



## gunga

The official olight world site lists 480. Battery junction has the wrong description at times. Note that the dealers are just cutting and pasteing from the alloy version. The olight official specs are relatively new.


----------



## firsttothescene

gunga said:


> The official olight world site lists 480. Battery junction has the wrong description at times. Note that the dealers are just cutting and pasteing from the alloy version. The olight official specs are relatively new.


 oh OK, thank you.


----------



## TheShadowGuy

It'll be interesting to compare the new versions to the original. Neutral white and different materials on an already excellent design is pretty exciting!

On an unrelated side note, I just got some RCR123A's to feed my S1. I hope the reduced runtimes don't affect my usage much.


----------



## DBStelly

Hey everyone just joined! I talked to someone at Olight yesterday about the all copper light and he said it would be "a few weeks"! Also will probably be in both copper finishes with the blue!


----------



## GoingGear.com

DBStelly said:


> Hey everyone just joined! I talked to someone at Olight yesterday about the all copper light and he said it would be "a few weeks"! Also will probably be in both copper finishes with the blue!



Raw will have the blue bezel and PVD coated with have the stainless bezel.


----------



## curry__muncha

firsttothescene said:


> Going gear says neutral white yet lists 550 lumens? (Ti)



Care to comment, GoingGear?


----------



## markr6

sorry, never mind (deleted)


----------



## Streak

Looks like a nice pocket rocket. My only problem would be a non fixed pocket clip which could leave you searching for the switch.
My current EDC has a fixed clip, switch is always in the same position relative to the clip. Having said this, I see this light available for $27 shipped from some vendors. At that price would make a good backup or go bag light.


----------



## TacticalFleshlight

I love this light already. Fits on my belt perfectly.


----------



## antouan

TacticalFleshlight said:


> I love this light already. Fits on my belt perfectly.


+1.Totally agree with you ☺


----------



## markr6

Pretty cool guys. We need a belt thread!

Or would that be too similar to my EDC thread? http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?407060-Show-your-EDC-being-EDC-ed


----------



## GoingGear.com

curry__muncha said:


> Care to comment, GoingGear?



Those were the original release specs which have since been revised. We're working on an email to update everyone that already ordered one. 480/NW is the final spec.


----------



## GoingGear.com

crojoe said:


> Love this light. Will wait for the copper version. Does anybody know when it'll be available.




It's a week or two out.


----------



## Sean Rorie

Hello Marshal
Is the Copper version a Cool White or NW Please.





GoingGear.com said:


> It's a week or two out.


----------



## 2000xlt

what width belt is that raptor?


TacticalFleshlight said:


> I love this light already. Fits on my belt perfectly.


----------



## TacticalFleshlight

2000xlt said:


> what width belt is that raptor?



It's a Fusion 1.5" riggers belt with Raptor buckle.


----------



## RGRAY

weklund said:


> Just Pre Ordered a Bead Blasted Ti S1 Neutral from Going Gear.
> 
> $71.16 out the door with coupon code ... SPOOKINESS
> 
> Nice looking light.



I am looking for a Titanium with a cool white light but I don't see any?
Are there any?
Also, would like to find it with a blue bezel?
Are there any?


----------



## GoingGear.com

Sean Rorie said:


> Hello Marshal
> Is the Copper version a Cool White or NW Please.



Cool white as of now. They haven't released the final specs, so it might change like the S1-Ti.


----------



## GoingGear.com

RGRAY said:


> I am looking for a Titanium with a cool white light but I don't see any?
> Are there any?
> Also, would like to find it with a blue bezel?
> Are there any?



Titanium is rose gold bezel and neutral white only. You might want to wait for the copper (maybe a third?  ) version. Copper will be raw/blue and PVD/stainless. Both have cool white as of now, but that might change.


----------



## Sean Rorie

Thanks Marshal
Its great having someone in the game and an interest in lights.





GoingGear.com said:


> Cool white as of now. They haven't released the final specs, so it might change like the S1-Ti.


----------



## Jiri

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

Has anyone tested a runtime on moonlight mode yet?? I must say I am pretty pissed now! On fully charged almost new Fenix 16340 (700 mAh) the moonlight mode's runtime was only 4,5 days... not even close to specified 15 days of runtime on RCR123A batteries.... I am testing the runtime with different batteries now and also on different pieces of Olight S1. Has anyone any better or same experience as I have? Thanks! (Runtime on Turbo was with the same battery 62.5 minutes... so that was pretty accurate.)


----------



## RGRAY

GoingGear.com said:


> Titanium is rose gold bezel and neutral white only. You might want to wait for the copper (maybe a third?  ) version. Copper will be raw/blue and PVD/stainless. Both have cool white as of now, but that might change.



Thanks for the information.
I just order the polished ti S1 nw.
My wife (and my 3 cars) Have the black/blue with cool white so I'll have both.
And I'll wait for the raw copper with cw.


----------



## hivoltage

Is this an S1 or an S11, I am confused!


----------



## Tixx

hivoltage said:


> Is this an S1 or an S11, I am confused!


This is all S1.


----------



## 2000xlt

First impression was , dang this small compared to my E1B...The clip however not a fan of,,the area of the clip that raises up off the body near where it attaches to the body hangs up on pocket trying to slide it in. Any idea how to mod that


----------



## HaileStorm

Got my new S1 yesterday and I'm truly impressed! It's absolutely timy! Here are a few pics in comparison to similarly sized lights: 

















Got the single o-ring package with a spare magnet






And a free holster






Only thing I don't like about this light is it doesn't memorize moonlight mode which I found pretty annoying. My first gen S10 remembers moonlight mode. Other than that though, it's a great little light! 👍


----------



## swan

Hey HaileStorm, my sample has moonlight mode memory, yours might have a problem.


----------



## UnderPar

swan said:


> Hey HaileStorm, my sample *has moonlight mode memory*, yours might have a problem.



I concur with this. My S1 memorizes the moonlight mode.


----------



## HaileStorm

Hey swan and underpar. Do you guys have the same packaging as mine?

My sample can memorize all the other modes but moonlight. Is there any other way to get to moonlight apart from holding the switch for 1 sec from off?


----------



## akhyar

Mine has moonlight memory mode too.
The stock package from Olight should come with 2 O-rings. No spare magnet or free holster


----------



## HaileStorm

Maybe olights newer copies cant memorize moonilght? 

Everything seems to work properly, even the timer and all. Its just that it cant memorize moonlight which is turning out to be a minor annoyance...


----------



## HaileStorm

Someone posted in this thread and got the same packaging as mine. 1 o-ring and a magnet in the accessories box to hold the bottom part of the light in place. Im thinking that's the revised packaging...

The holster didnt come with the box, it was just thrown in by the dealer.


----------



## akhyar

HaileStorm said:


> Maybe olights newer copies cant memorize moonilght?
> 
> Everything seems to work properly, even the timer and all. Its just that it cant memorize moonlight which is turning out to be a minor annoyance...



Drop the Ultrafire battery in the photo if I were you 
Maybe you can drop an email to Olight support if their newer copies can't memorize moonlight?
I suspects yours' is a returned S1 as it should have come with 2 O-rings


----------



## HaileStorm

akhyar said:


> Drop the Ultrafire battery in the photo if I were you
> Maybe you can drop an email to Olight support if their newer copies can't memorize moonlight?
> I suspects yours' is a returned S1 as it should have come with 2 O-rings


I dont use the ultrafire battery, thats the reason i left it in the box 😀 im using a nitecore rcr in it. I tried a surefire primary on it as well, still no luck with moonlight memory. Will email olight and ask. Thanks akhyar.

Edit: as for the orings, theres no provision in the cardboard backing in the box for a second o-ring to fit into. There should be two holes in the box for the ring to slot into but my box doesnt have extra holes in it...


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

Mine also memorizes moonlight. Did your light have a magnet in the tail as well as in the box? May I ask if you bought it from a brick & mortar store, a reputable on line vendor or eBay?


----------



## HaileStorm

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> Mine also memorizes moonlight. Did your light have a magnet in the tail as well as in the box? May I ask if you bought it from a brick & mortar store, a reputable on line vendor or eBay?


Yup, there's a magnet in the tail and a separate magnet in the accessories box. I bought the light at a brick & mortar store during my stay over in HK last weekend. 

I'd say it's the real deal, no doubt as the light is very solid and shows exactly the same parts as those posted here. Beam is also exactly the same as those videos i watched in youtube reviews. 

It's just that dang moonlight memory that's off 😂 like i said, everything else works, even the timer functions and mode memory on low, med and high. None on moonlight and strobe though. Not that I'd want to keep strobe in memory but the moonlight mem really sort of bothers me since it's the mode i use a lot to navigate my way to the loo at night.


----------



## HaileStorm

Here's how the light was packaged:






Notice the spare magned meant to hold the light in place during transit. This in place of a second o-ring.











No slot for a second o-ring to hold the bottom portion of the light.


----------



## gunga

I've heard of the changed packaging. The moonlight thing appears to be a defect.


----------



## UnderPar

HaileStorm said:


> Hey swan and underpar. Do you guys have the same packaging as mine?
> 
> My sample can memorize all the other modes but moonlight. Is there any other way to get to moonlight apart from holding the switch for 1 sec from off?



I'll check the packaging later and will confirm then. Thanks


----------



## HaileStorm

Thank you, underpar. Gunga, if it is a defect, i guess i'll just live with it. It's a minor inconvenience but I'm thinking it's going to be more of a hassle to send the light back... it's really too bad to see olight taking shortcuts in the QC department.


----------



## Crazyeddiethefirst

Hi Hailestorm,
I use Moonlight a ton. Before condemning yourself to a life without Moonlight in memory on an otherwise great light, may I suggest you go to the manufacturer's thread and send a reply to Olight. They have been very responsive and helpful-on my S-30r, they sent me a new light and charging dock just for providing them the serial number on my defective light-I was not required to send it back in. Granted, they knew it was model wide defect and what caused it, but it couldn't hurt to send an email and ask. Good luck, I hope it gets taken care for you!


----------



## HaileStorm

Crazyeddiethefirst said:


> Hi Hailestorm,
> I use Moonlight a ton. Before condemning yourself to a life without Moonlight in memory on an otherwise great light, may I suggest you go to the manufacturer's thread and send a reply to Olight. They have been very responsive and helpful-on my S-30r, they sent me a new light and charging dock just for providing them the serial number on my defective light-I was not required to send it back in. Granted, they knew it was model wide defect and what caused it, but it couldn't hurt to send an email and ask. Good luck, I hope it gets taken care for you!



Thanks, Crazyeddiethefirst! I'll give that a shot and see if there's a way they can replace my light. If that doesn't work though, then I guess I'll just have to live with never having moonlight on memory.

Edit: I know this may seem like a dumb question but where can I find Olights thread? A point towards the right direction would be greatly appreciated 😊


----------



## UnderPar

I just checked the packaging of my Olight S1 and I can confirm that we have the same packaging material. Its a good idea to send Olight an email and inform them of your concern.


----------



## UnderPar

HaileStorm said:


> Thanks, Crazyeddiethefirst! I'll give that a shot and see if there's a way they can replace my light. If that doesn't work though, then I guess I'll just have to live with never having moonlight on memory.
> 
> Edit: I know this may seem like a dumb question but *where can I find Olights thread?* A point towards the right direction would be greatly appreciated 



Here's the link:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?176-Olight


----------



## HaileStorm

UnderPar said:


> Here's the link:
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?176-Olight


Great, thanks for the help underpar 👍


----------



## Wet

HerecomestheBoom said:


> It does look good but I really hope it comes with a NW LED like they did with the titanium S10, preferably without the greenish tint of course.
> 
> Did anyone manage to successfully mod a S1 to NW yet?



I just bought S1 and couldn't stand the cool white tint of it, especially outdoors when looking at vegetation. The blue steel bezel is press fit and it was pretty tight but I eventually got it open. I desoldered the stock aluminum star which was 1.0 x 14 mm in size. Then I put in an XM-L2 6C 3500 K that i had earlier reflowed on an exactly the same size copper star that I took from S20. The beam color is more comfortable now, almost like incan but not quite as warm.





A white soft ring is glued to the inside of the blue bezel and it seems to be the part that makes the TIR lens and body gap watertight by pressing against both of them.


----------



## prodal

I just received my 2nd S1 today. I have one from the old batch with 2 spare o-rings and a new one with one spare o-ring and a spare magnet.

With the old one the moonlight memory works fine but with the new one it goes straight into low mode when being switched off in moonlight mode as being reported in this thread.

Moreover the hotspot is even bigger than in the old S1 and the switch is mushy and not so crisp as in the first batch of the s1. 

The old one is on the left and the new one on the right.



 

 



The package having 15.10.21 printed on it is the new one.


----------



## Olightworld

Hello,

We have made a few modifications to the UI of the light and we have also included a magnet to secure the light in the packaging. This second version is a genuine Olight product if anyone is worried. Thank you


----------



## Wet

My S1 also came with just 1 spare o-ring and a second magnet in the accessory box. However my S1 does come on in the moon mode if it was used as the last mode. Also my packaging says 25 day runtime while your says 40 hours. I measured about 10 mA tailcap current on moonlight mode so the actual runtime would be about 3 days, at least when using a 16340 battery.


----------



## gunga

Oh crap. I ordered a titanium one and don't like the new UI. I want moonlight memory. If this has changed I'll cancel my order.


----------



## gunga

Wet. Can you describe how you opened it?


----------



## Wet

Basically the same way vinhnguyen54 mentioned in his S1vn thread 4 days ago..

I clamped S1 in a vise that had wooden pieces on the jaws to prevent damaging the light finish. Then I took a chisel and dulled its sharp blade because if its too sharp it could damage the bezel. The chisel tip must still be narrow enough so that it can fit in between the blue steel bezel and the body. The chisel should be oriented quite parallel to the flashlight body so that it pushes the bezel away from the body. Then just tap the chisel with a rubber mallet. The bezel was pretty tight so in the end I had to tap with more force than I would first have wanted to. I alternately tapped the bezel from different sides because I thought it would come out more evenly that way. The vise didn't have enough friction and I didn't dare to tighten it more so I had to support S1 also against another flat object to prevent it from spinning in the vise.

I also got the steel ring around S10 switch off with chisel and rubber mallet and it seems to work for taking apart some other press fit joints too.


----------



## gunga

Awesome feedback. Thanks! I don't have the tools where I am at the moment so will skip it. Great detail!


----------



## TheShadowGuy

Odd. I had the new packaging with the magnet, but my S1 must be the original version since it will memorize the moonlight mode.


----------



## Wet

TheShadowGuy said:


> Odd. I had the new packaging with the magnet, but my S1 must be the original version since it will memorize the moonlight mode.




I had the same. Perhaps they changed the packaging first and moonlight after. Does your S1 serial number start with F09 too? If I'm not wrong, the F means its made in 2015 (E=2014, D=2013 etc..) but I'm not sure if one can tell the manufacturing time more precisely from the numbers.


----------



## HaileStorm

I guess I'll have to live with the new UI... seems like a step backward though for me to be unable to memorize moonlight. Wish I got one of the first batches now. Oh well. I wonder why the couldn't just stick to the changes in the packaging and leave the UI untouched?


----------



## HaileStorm

prodal said:


> I just received my 2nd S1 today. I have one from the old batch with 2 spare o-rings and a new one with one spare o-ring and a spare magnet.
> 
> With the old one the moonlight memory works fine but with the new one it goes straight into low mode when being switched off in moonlight mode as being reported in this thread.
> 
> Moreover the hotspot is even bigger than in the old S1 and the switch is mushy and not so crisp as in the first batch of the s1.
> 
> The old one is on the left and the new one on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package having 15.10.21 printed on it is the new one.


Hey there, prodal! Glad to hear that mine isn't defective and that they've actually changed the ui. 

May I ask though if there's a way to figure out the production date of the light via its serial number?


----------



## prodal

The serial number of my new s1 starts with F10 and the numbers don't seem to include a production date code.

But i thought the barcode sticker is from olight itself. Or is it from the vendor?


----------



## TacticalFleshlight

Mine is F09 with spare magnet, and moonlight memory.


----------



## akhyar

prodal said:


> The serial number of my new s1 starts with F10 and the numbers don't seem to include a production date code.
> 
> But i thought the barcode sticker is from olight itself. Or is it from the vendor?



i believed the barcode sticker is from the vendor.
Looks like the sticker from Gearbest or Banggood


----------



## HaileStorm

Prodal, mine didn't come with the barcode sticker so I'm guessing it's from the vendor. 

My copy of the S1 is an F10 with the spare magnet as well but no moonlight memory... arrgh. 

Oh well, it's not really that big of a problem but I really wish Olight had left the UI alone.


----------



## swan

Mine is an F08, i wonder why they changed the ui?
I guess its not a deal breaker but i wonder then if this means the Ti and Copper versions are with out moonlight memory?
Thanks Wet for the bezel removal pics and in particular the size of the led star.


----------



## akhyar

Mine is an F08, with the old packaging (2 O-rings) and moonlight memory





As some others with new packaging and serial no. starts with F10 still have the moonlight memory, maybe you can double-check with Olight what are the chnages to the UI


----------



## d88

Just received my S1 and can confirm mine has moonlight memory, has the spare magnet in the packaging and has a S/N starting in F10. Great little light btw.


----------



## Kilovolt

Kilovolt said:


> Just one in my case and it is not mentioned in the list of contents.



Now at last I understand! I bought this light mid september from the Italian AD, it had a single o-ring in the box but also an additional magnet and the moonlight mode is included in the memory i.e. after using it once you can get it both with a single click and a longer push.


----------



## HaileStorm

My suspicion is that there's some sort of discrepancy within the manufacturing process (maybe a bad batch?). It just doesn't make sense why they'd change what is an otherwise flawless UI and without notice to consumers as well. 

It's not a deal breaker for me since I primarily bought this light for its 500lm output anyway but they should've announced the changes and not just leave their consumers wondering if their lights are defective or something. Just my thoughts.


----------



## Wet

Could the first two numbers after the letter in the Olight serial number indicate the month the light was made? What do you think?


----------



## TheShadowGuy

Wet said:


> Could the first two numbers after the letter in the Olight serial number indicate the month the light was made? What do you think?



It's possible, but we would need a larger sample. I don't have the serial number with me right now or I'd post it.

I'm somewhat baffled since we have confirmation from Olight that they changed the UI. It's a minor change technically but it could be a really big deal. For me, I've gotten in the habit of memorizing moonlight whenever I stow it away, and while not a dealbreaker it is a feature I really like. I can only guess that when they made the changes to the light in preparation for the Ti and Cu editions that little bit got dropped. I wonder if there are any other changes, like a small change in efficiency?


----------



## Kilovolt

Wet said:


> Could the first two numbers after the letter in the Olight serial number indicate the month the light was made? What do you think?



I don't think so, my light was shipped by the Italian dealer to me on Sept. 18 and the two first numbers after the letter are 09. There was simply no time to make it, pack it, send it over, go through customs, reach the dealer and be sold.


----------



## Tixx

Olightworld said:


> Hello,
> 
> We have made a few modifications to the UI of the light and we have also included a magnet to secure the light in the packaging. This second version is a genuine Olight product if anyone is worried. Thank you


What UI changes were they? One thing I find annoying is when a change is mentioned without details. ArmyTek did the same thing in an answer to one of my questions. Be specific please.


----------



## Olightworld

Since the first batch of the S1 Baton shipped out to our distributors, we improved the packaging by adding a magnet to hold the light in place instead of the two Orings. The new packaging was finished at the end of August. Since September, only a few S1 Baton's came out with the old packaging including the two Orings holding the light in place.


As for the UI, the updated version was ready at the end of September. This means that only a few S1 Baton's shipped out in the second batch with the new UI and new packing box while most of them came with the new packaging and had the old UI version.


----------



## Tixx

Olightworld said:


> Since the first batch of the S1 Baton shipped out to our distributors, we improved the packaging by adding a magnet to hold the light in place instead of the two Orings. The new packaging was finished at the end of August. Since September, only a few S1 Baton's came out with the old packaging including the two Orings holding the light in place.
> 
> 
> As for the UI, the updated version was ready at the end of September. This means that only a few S1 Baton's shipped out in the second batch with the new UI and new packing box while most of them came with the new packaging and had the old UI version.


So what is the new UI?


----------



## gunga

So the titanium and copper ones will this new UI? Why did you change it? Doesn't seem like an improvement.


----------



## akhyar

Olightworld said:


> As for the UI, the updated version was ready at the end of September. This means that only a few S1 Baton's shipped out in the second batch with the new UI and new packing box while most of them came with the new packaging and had the old UI version.



Stop beating around the bush and just tell us what is the new UI?
Is the removal of the moonlight memory part of the new UI?
If it yes, then HaileStorm's S1 is not a defective unit and we'll know the newer versions, including the Ti and Cu versions will spot this new UI


----------



## prodal

Today I trashed the rubber switch of my S1. The switch feeled kinda mushy when i pressed it. 

Especially when i pressed the back part of the rubber switch I couldn't hear it clicking but the light still turned on. In the front part there was a clear clicking sound when I turned it on. 

So i tried to take of the rubber cap with my nails, and it came off party and got destroyed. I guess I had to take off the blue ring before that.

But now I can see that the switch wasn't in the middle of the hole and thats why the switch feeled kinda mushy. 
Anyone got an Idea how to get the blue ring off that sits around the switch?


----------



## HaileStorm

akhyar said:


> Stop beating around the bush and just tell us what is the new UI?
> Is the removal of the moonlight memory part of the new UI?
> If it yes, then HaileStorm's S1 is not a defective unit and we'll know the newer versions, including the Ti and Cu versions will spot this new UI


That should get their attention. In my opinion, the old UI is definitely better and I don't see how removing the memory for moonlight further "improves" the UI. I'm hoping Olight can elaborate why the change was made.


----------



## peabody

d88 said:


> Just received my S1 and can confirm mine has moonlight memory, has the spare magnet in the packaging and has a S/N starting in F10. Great little light btw.



Same here. And the little button is hard to find in the dark and with my fat thumb it is hard to press. Guess that is a good thing cause it can't turn on easily in my pocket. Great little light and the moonlight mode is almost too bright.


----------



## Jiri

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Jiri said:


> Has anyone tested a runtime on moonlight mode yet?? I must say I am pretty pissed now! On fully charged almost new Fenix 16340 (700 mAh) the moonlight mode's runtime was only 4,5 days... not even close to specified 15 days of runtime on RCR123A batteries.... I am testing the runtime with different batteries now and also on different pieces of Olight S1. Has anyone any better or same experience as I have? Thanks! (Runtime on Turbo was with the same battery 62.5 minutes... so that was pretty accurate.)



Ok. I re-measured the runtimes of different pieces of Olight S1 on moonlight mode with different batteries. One piece of Olight S1 with AW 750 mAh 16340 li-ion battery (fully charged by NiteCore D4) runtime on moonlight mode 4 days and 16 hours. Different piece of Olight S1 with Fenix 16340 (700 mAh) li-ion battery (fully charged by Nitecore D4) runtime on moonlight mode 4 days 6 hours. I took third piece of Olight S1 with different Fenix 16340 battery (700 mAh) the result was pretty same. 

I wish someone else would pay attention to my findings and could run some test as well. Because I really find it outrages that Olight states with ANSI standards that runtime on moonlight mode with 16340 RCR123A battery (650 mAh) should be up to 15 days!!! Nobody here find it interesting or odd?? 

Thank you guys!


----------



## Jiri

prodal said:


> I just received my 2nd S1 today. I have one from the old batch with 2 spare o-rings and a new one with one spare o-ring and a spare magnet.
> 
> With the old one the moonlight memory works fine but with the new one it goes straight into low mode when being switched off in moonlight mode as being reported in this thread.
> 
> Moreover the hotspot is even bigger than in the old S1 and the switch is mushy and not so crisp as in the first batch of the s1.
> 
> The old one is on the left and the new one on the right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The package having 15.10.21 printed on it is the new one.




I have already posted here my findings that each piece of Olight S1 I got has a very noticeably different hotspots and even tint of the beam. 



Jiri said:


> Yeap, thanks for your comment. But it is really wierd that manufactures of these LED's can't really do that consistency you are talking about  Bodies of the flashlight can look pretty much the same with every peice, but they can't manage LED's and it is just a lucky pick, if you get more neutral white or more cool white LED on the same flashlight  I have noticed that also the beam dispersion is pretty much different on every single of my Olight S1... one is more spread, second is more focused, some of them are not centred well enough. Nonetheless, I just love this little light


----------



## Wet

prodal said:


> Today I trashed the rubber switch of my S1. The switch feeled kinda mushy when i pressed it.
> 
> Especially when i pressed the back part of the rubber switch I couldn't hear it clicking but the light still turned on. In the front part there was a clear clicking sound when I turned it on.
> 
> So i tried to take of the rubber cap with my nails, and it came off party and got destroyed. I guess I had to take off the blue ring before that.
> 
> But now I can see that the switch wasn't in the middle of the hole and thats why the switch feeled kinda mushy.
> Anyone got an Idea how to get the blue ring off that sits around the switch?



I got S20R switch off and I assume S1 switch would come off the same way. So the blue ring is probably press fit. First clamp the light in a vise. Then place a sharp chisel right in in the seam between the blue ring and flashlight body. Give the chisel a few taps with a rubber mallet. When the gap between the ring and the body becomes larger, you can tilt the chisel so that it pushes the ring away from the body.






But since your switch is already out of the way and you have access to the inside of the blue ring, you could probably place a small flat hook underneath the blue ring and with enough force just pull it straight out. Or maybe simply by placing a flat screwdriver in the hole and using it as a lever to lift the other side of the ring out.



Jiri said:


> Nobody here find it interesting or odd??


I've been wondering the same. S10R also has an exaggerated runtime of 7 days, while in our tests here in CPF battery has lasted only for about 3 days.:thinking: I will start moonlight runtime test immediately on my S1.


----------



## prodal

Thanks alot. I will try that out, I wasnt quite sure if it is press fit or screwed. Then I need to figure out how to get a replacement rubber cap.


----------



## Jiri

Wet said:


> I've been wondering the same. S10R also has an exaggerated runtime of 7 days, while in our tests here in CPF battery has lasted only for about 3 days.:thinking: I will start moonlight runtime test immediately on my S1.




Thank you very much Wet, I could really appreciate it! Let us know when you finish the test! Cheers! I really hate when "good" companies have mis-leading informations about their products.  Right now I am starting to think that I will stick with Fenix. Olight S1 is my first Olight... I though I will use its moonlight mode to 24/7 iluminate my hallway in the house... well I don't want to change batteries every 3 days  If my measurements are give or take accurate I am finished with Olight company.  Why would they exaggerate and put it even on the package? I don't like companies making fool of us just to buy their products. God I am so upset with my findings....


----------



## Olightworld

Yes the copper and titanium versions both have this simplified UI. The light only has a memory mode for low, medium, and high. If you turn the light off on high and it has been longer than 10 minutes then it will be on low when you turn it back on. This is a safety feature we implemented. To reach the moonlight, you just have to hold the switch down for two seconds. You can do this at any time from the off position to reach moonlight. The only difference for our users is that you have to hold it down for two seconds instead of just pressing it like normal.


----------



## Wet

Thanks for explaining it.  Since S1 doesn't have electronic lock-out function, wouldn't it make sense that if you press and hold from off and just keep pressing, it would start switching to next modes instead of just staying on moonlight?


----------



## gunga

So it's 2 seconds instead of 1 now? Order cancelled. Not for me.


----------



## Tixx

Wet said:


> Thanks for explaining it.  Since S1 doesn't have electronic lock-out function, wouldn't it make sense that if you press and hold from off and just keep pressing, it would start switching to next modes instead of just staying on moonlight?


No! Love that it stays regardless of how long you press. Then you never have to worry about jumping to the next level mistakenly while walking around the house.


----------



## Tixx

Olightworld said:


> Yes the copper and titanium versions both have this simplified UI. The light only has a memory mode for low, medium, and high. If you turn the light off on high and it has been longer than 10 minutes then it will be on low when you turn it back on. This is a safety feature we implemented. To reach the moonlight, you just have to hold the switch down for two seconds. You can do this at any time from the off position to reach moonlight. The only difference for our users is that you have to hold it down for two seconds instead of just pressing it like normal.


Thank you!


----------



## Wet

gunga said:


> So it's 2 seconds instead of 1 now? Order cancelled. Not for me.


I agree. 1 second feels already too long, if you just quickly want moonlight to check something in dark. Even half a second press would be long enough for me. In my opinion it's still better than the way Zebralight's lowest mode is accessed: The moment you start holding the switch, the low mode comes on, but if you release the switch too soon, it will go to high, which will immediately take away your night vision with 1000 lumens.


----------



## Tixx

Wet said:


> I agree. 1 second feels already too long, if you just quickly want moonlight to check something in dark. Even half a second press would be long enough for me. In my opinion it's still better than the way Zebralight's lowest mode is accessed: The moment you start holding the switch, the low mode comes on, but if you release the switch too soon, it will go to high, which will immediately take away your night vision with 1000 lumens.


Yeah, the one big fault with the ZL UI.


----------



## gunga

Yes. The zebralight way is simple and effective, but I still occasionally react too fast and blind myself. Hate that. 

The olight was great because u could memorize moonlight and just do a quick press. The moonlight is bright enough that I can use that mode most of the night. Now having to do a 2 second press? No thanks. 

I'm also not a fan of the 10 minute reset. If a reset is needed, try 5-10 seconds. Otherwise, I'd like it to stay in the mode I have memorized.


----------



## markr6

Tixx said:


> Yeah, the one big fault with the ZL UI.



Oh I was just thinking the opposite..."stick with ZL"

UIs will always drive us crazy!


----------



## Gadgetman7

Just cancelled my two titanium orders. I HATE the ten minute reset. If I wanted something that always comes on in low I'd stick with a twisty. Glad I ordered the original. BTW the way, a ten minute reset isn't a "safety" feature, it's just nannyism.

EDIT: Asked a dealer if they could check for the old UI. He found one so I ordered a backup.


----------



## Aaron

So in other words, the timer means that after using the light on high and turning it off and putting it away for more than 10 minutes means it will always come on on the low setting? Can someone please confirm this so I can cancel my order before it ships? 

Thanks


----------



## Aaron

Double post sorry!


----------



## hivoltage

Is there no lockout on the S1 ? I am always turning my Baton on by accident if the lockout is not on.


----------



## Wet

S1 doesn't seem to have an electronic lockout like S10 has. However it can be electromechanically locked out by twisting the tail cap or just mechanically by turning the pocket clip in front of the switch to prevent accidentally pressing it.


----------



## firsttothescene

I think the UI change is a bit of a bummer, but it would not stop me from buying the light. It is still an awesome light. The run time claim for moonlight mode is more of a letdown than the UI change.


----------



## firsttothescene

You have to admit it, the TI version is very, very, sweet.:twothumbs


----------



## Prepped

I think I'm alone when I say that I actually like the new UI. Low is what I end up using 99% of the time, and often times I find myself going straight to moonlight, just to get to low, lest I accidentally blind myself after leaving it on high. To each their own, I suppose. Moonlight is just a quick one second depress of the switch, I don't really see the big deal? Turbo is a quick double press!


----------



## firsttothescene

Prepped said:


> I think I'm alone when I say that I actually like the new UI. Low is what I end up using 99% of the time, and often times I find myself going straight to moonlight, just to get to low, lest I accidentally blind myself after leaving it on high. To each their own, I suppose. Moonlight is just a quick one second depress of the switch, I don't really see the big deal? Turbo is a quick double press!


I'm with ya.


----------



## Prepped

Heck, if anyone's interested in doing a trade for the new UI, I'd be open to it, to be honest. Shoot me a PM.


----------



## Wet

Jiri said:


> Let us know when you finish the test!


My S1 ran only for about 65 hours on moonlight.  During the test I took the battery out of the light few times a day and measured the voltage. For comparison I added both Olight S1 and S10 to the same graph:


----------



## HerecomestheBoom

Very disappointed to hear about the changed UI. 

I keep mine in moonglow mode most of the time, but I guess I'm in the minority there.

I might see if I can track down some old stock, but I definitely won't be buying the titanium or coper version now.


----------



## gunga

I'm the same as you. I keep mine in moonlight at least 3/4 of the time.


----------



## Tixx

Yeah, use moonlight quite a bit myself too


----------



## Prepped

To each their own. I guess I can see how it would be ever so slightly annoying to have to hold the button for a second to get to moonlight, but I think this is great, honestly.


----------



## firsttothescene

If a few of you guys use moonlight most of the time this flashlight seems like overkill then.


----------



## gunga

Nah. To each their own. Some people like moonlight. Some people like turbo. It's nice when 1 light provides both.


----------



## TheShadowGuy

gunga said:


> Nah. To each their own. Some people like moonlight. Some people like turbo. It's nice when 1 light provides both.


+1
Not to mention the optic makes the moonlight mode more useful for me than some other lights I have with moonlight modes. I also like memorizing moonlight to not accidentally blind myself when I turn in on (especially when night adjusted and even 8 lumens is too much). But I do use the higher modes as well, such as when I was assisting with the rescue of some kittens. You never know when you might need more light.

To summarize why people are upset about the change:
1. For those who use moonlight a lot, it is a major twofold change- no memory and longer press.
2. It was unannounced, leading people to purchase the light based on the old UI.
3. There doesn't seem to be any added benefit to the new UI.


----------



## gunga

Very well worded. That is exactly what I feel. Thanks.


----------



## Jiri

My TOTAL RUNTIMES with Olight S1 on TURBO [mode 1]

with
Fenix ARB-L16-700 16340 700 mAh = 60 minutes 20 seconds
Fenix ARB-L16-700 16340 700 mAh = 61 minutes 10 seconds
AW 16340 750 mAh = 59 minutes 20 seconds 

but moonlight modes with same batteries as I previously posted... in avarage only 4 and a half days.


----------



## Jiri

Wet said:


> My S1 ran only for about 65 hours on moonlight.




Thanks for your post and graph... that is very dissapointing to hear... How can we trust Olight they don't lie about different things they supposedly measured with ANSI standards... what about water-resistance, what about impact-resistence? It is also overrated by Olight like the runtime on moonlight mode is? Why they make fool of people? I will stick with Fenix till Olight improve their honesty.


----------



## Tixx

gunga said:


> Nah. To each their own. Some people like moonlight. Some people like turbo. It's nice when 1 light provides both.


Exactly.


----------



## Tixx

gunga said:


> Nah. To each their own. Some people like moonlight. Some people like turbo. It's nice when 1 light provides both.


Exactly


----------



## Wet

Jiri said:


> Thanks for your post and graph... that is very dissapointing to hear... How can we trust Olight they don't lie about different things they supposedly measured with ANSI standards... what about water-resistance, what about impact-resistence? It is also overrated by Olight like the runtime on moonlight mode is? Why they make fool of people? I will stick with Fenix till Olight improve their honesty.


Well, I wist the impact resistance was better.. My S20R just fell on a stone floor from 1 meter height and got a dent on the steel bezel. My bezel opening tool doesn't easily fit on the five notches in the bezel anymore, but I got it open anyway and found out that the aluminum threads on the head were also slightly bent near the impact point. Though it only affects the light if you intend to open it, for normal use it's just a matter of aesthetics.


----------



## HaileStorm

This is probably the only time I wished I got an old stock of a certain product... to Olight, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. 

Anyway, to say something positive about this light, I recently brought it along a with me to the beach where most areas are pitch black at night. I have to say, it is amazingly bright and lights up a big area in front of me. The beam is great! Some people even went up to me asking what kind of light I was using and they couldn't believe it when I showed it to them aince it's so tiny! 

All in all, it still is a great light even when given the shortcomings of the new UI. Just takes some getting used to 👍


----------



## Jiri

Haha... My EDC Olight S1 just went through washing machine test...  accidently... but it's working fine, no damage found  )) Just smells better now!


----------



## gunga

Did you remember the fabric softener to reduce static cling?


----------



## Jiri

gunga said:


> Did you remember the fabric softener to reduce static cling?



+1

Yes, sir!! :-D


----------



## run4jc

Got mine today. I like it. SO small - smaller than my Zebralight SC32. Shoot, I may carry it instead of my Surefire Titan Plus. Has a very high quality feel to it!


----------



## scout24

Heresy!!! . Just kidding, glad you like it. It's a neat little light. And i agree that it seems well made. Taking the magnet out of the tail lets it come out of my pocket without everything attached to it.


----------



## Tixx

scout24 said:


> Heresy!!! . Just kidding, glad you like it. It's a neat little light. And i agree that it seems well made. Taking the magnet out of the tail lets it come out of my pocket without everything attached to it.


Yeah, magnet is handy, but not needed most of the time so I removed it as well for the same reason.


----------



## Prepped

For those that care, with the magnet and clip removed, this little guy weighs in a 1.4oz with battery installed!!!


----------



## run4jc

(UPDATE 11/18 - Olight had dropped off my radar for a long time. My first 'real' flashlight was an Olight M20 (I think?). Bought another Olight or 2 along the way but sorta forgot about the brand for quite a while. BTW, that 6+ year old M20 still rides in the console of my wife's car - works just fine.

This S1 has put Olight back on my radar screen. Nice little light. Now I'm curious about the non-titanium version!)

I kinda like the magnet, but removed the clip. Just took a few random photos along side my Zebralight SC32w. SOOO small. Gonna EDC this little thing for a few days and see how I like it. Yup, it's kicking the Surefire Titan Plus out of my pocket for a while!


----------



## leonardo4358

This tiny thing is cute and easy to carry.
Guys, where do you buy these flashlights online?


----------



## run4jc

leonardo4358 said:


> This tiny thing is cute and easy to carry.
> Guys, where do you buy these flashlights online?



I bought mine at goinggear.com


----------



## multibit

Got my S1 this morning, mainly got this for camping and when out doing night photography . Looks nicely made, I've only quickly tried it to make sure it works , I think I have the old UI ,moonlight comes on after holding switch for a second . When I first tried the light it came straight on as moonlight (one quick click ) ,Serial number on the flashlight is F10141559 .
BTW I presume only the short rechargeable CR123 will fit and work in these and not the 16340 types ?


----------



## firsttothescene

Anyone getting the copper version?


----------



## Sean Rorie

firsttothescene said:


> Anyone getting the copper version?


I am ordering one the uncoated version


----------



## Wet

multibit said:


> BTW I presume only the short rechargeable CR123 will fit and work in these and not the 16340 types ?


 Rechargeable olight RCR123A, which is about 36 mm long doesn't fit in my S1. Neither did a protected keeppower 16340 until I took the protection circuit off of the battery which made it 34 mm long and now it fits nicely in the S1 just like any non-rechargeable CR123A. However now it lacks over-discharge protection.

I think button top battery unnecessary with S1 because both terminals have springs. Removing the protection circuit just seemed an easier way to shorten the battery than removing the button top, because if you take the button top off, the protection circuit won't work as it loses the electrical connection to + side of the cell. Solution could be spot welding or soldering it back.

If they just made the light 2 mm longer, almost all cells would fit in.


----------



## Durtndur

I use unprotected AW IMR 550mah 16340s in my S1, nothing else fit/worked!


----------



## mb200k

Wet said:


> Rechargeable olight RCR123A, which is about 36 mm long doesn't fit in my S1. Neither did a protected keeppower 16340 until I took the protection circuit off of the battery which made it 34 mm long and now it fits nicely in the S1 just like any non-rechargeable CR123A. However now it lacks over-discharge protection.
> 
> I think button top battery unnecessary with S1 because both terminals have springs. Removing the protection circuit just seemed an easier way to shorten the battery than removing the button top, because if you take the button top off, the protection circuit won't work as it loses the electrical connection to + side of the cell. Solution could be spot welding or soldering it back.
> 
> If they just made the light 2 mm longer, almost all cells would fit in.


So the olight battery does not fit? i just bought several while i wait for my two S1's to arrive, i saw videos where the olight rcr was being use and tought that the battery from the same brand would fit


----------



## d88

Just tried my new set of AW ICR 123 (750MaH) and they work fine in my S1.


----------



## Joe Talmadge

d88 said:


> Just tried my new set of AW ICR 123 (750MaH) and they work fine in my S1.



I'm running an older (think I bought it about 2 years ago) AW ICR 123 in mine, and it also fits and works fine.

Weird that Olight wouldn't assure that at least their own battery would fit! I was just about to buy some new 16340s and was going to pick up Olights, but will lean towards new AWs I suppose


----------



## peabody

Aw 16340 work great on my two. Heck of a lot brighter than plain cr123 primaries.


----------



## jeff400650

Jeez. I just ordered an S1 and then read this entire 24 page thread to find out that the UI has been screwed up and that my "regular" batteries (RCR123A) won't work? Kinda bummed I guess. My S10R is my most used light I own.


----------



## Joe Talmadge

Post #612 mentions that he's using a NItecore RCR in his S1. So...

*Seem to fit:*
AW RCR123 (protected): reports indicate both older and newer cells fit
Nitecore RCR123 (protected)
IMRs (assume any IMR, because they're unprotected)

*Seem not to fit*
Olight RCR (protected)
Keepower RCR (protected)


----------



## jeff400650

I have Nitecore and Olight RCR123A batteries, and the Nitecore are actually a tiny bit longer, Maybe .5mm.


----------



## jeff400650

I'm just curious, does anyone know if Olight changed the UI on the S10RII as well? I just ordered 5 of those for Christmas gifts.


----------



## HaileStorm

Joe Talmadge said:


> Post #612 mentions that he's using a NItecore RCR in his S1. So...
> 
> *Seem to fit:*
> AW RCR123 (protected): reports indicate both older and newer cells fit
> Nitecore RCR123 (protected)
> IMRs (assume any IMR, because they're unprotected)
> 
> *Seem not to fit*
> Olight RCR (protected)
> Keepower RCR (protected)


I just checked and I'm post #612 hehe! But yes, I use Nitecore NL166 RCR123 on my S1 and it fits perfectly 👍


----------



## gunga

jeff400650 said:


> I'm just curious, does anyone know if Olight changed the UI on the S10RII as well? I just ordered 5 of those for Christmas gifts.



I just got mine (ordered 3-4 weeks ago). No charge. Old UI. Yah!


----------



## jswe

mb200k said:


> So the olight battery does not fit? i just bought several while i wait for my two S1's to arrive, i saw videos where the olight rcr was being use and tought that the battery from the same brand would fit



I'm using S1 baton with Olight's own 650 mAh RCR123A. These fit without any problems.


----------



## Joe Talmadge

HaileStorm said:


> I just checked and I'm post #612 hehe!



That you are!

A question on the S1, if anyone knows the answer: these little ICRs are rated at 2C output, and although they say 750mAh on them, they're usually measured at more like 600mAh, no? So 2C is 1.2A ... what's the S1 drawing on high?


----------



## Prepped

Joe Talmadge said:


> That you are!
> 
> A question on the S1, if anyone knows the answer: these little ICRs are rated at 2C output, and although they say 750mAh on them, they're usually measured at more like 600mAh, no? So 2C is 1.2A ... what's the S1 drawing on high?



I measured around 1.8 amps


----------



## Joe Talmadge

Thanks! So closer to 3C, for an ICR. Any battery experts want to comment on whether we're pushing our luck?


----------



## firsttothescene

Olight batteries fit no problem.


----------



## firsttothescene

Is the coated copper light solid copper?


----------



## monanza

Yes, solid Cu. I posted in the S1 addiction thread but GG is now offering two Brass editions (PVD and Raw) in NW. No information on the UI but I expect same as the Ti. I am hoping they will follow with a Bronze edition. Other exotic metals may be too much to hope for but this light is perfect for exotics given its miniature size.

Not sure why Olight switched the UI in the middle of production; seems strange. Still, although I prefer LMH (or moonlight-LMH), at least I can still get to moonlight from off. Two second press is too long for middle of the night errands though. The UI switcharoo should have been more carefully considered. The S1 is nearly small enough to wear on a neck chain and it should sport the UI to go with it.

BTW, the groove at the neck of the light is perfect for a GITD o-ring. You need to lift the clip a tad to slide the o-ring through.


----------



## Speedfreakz

Joe Talmadge said:


> Post #612 mentions that he's using a NItecore RCR in his S1. So...
> 
> *Seem to fit:*
> AW RCR123 (protected): reports indicate both older and newer cells fit
> Nitecore RCR123 (protected)
> IMRs (assume any IMR, because they're unprotected)
> 
> *Seem not to fit*
> Olight RCR (protected)
> Keepower RCR (protected)



My black keepower 16340 fit fine


----------



## Speedfreakz

monanza said:


> Yes, solid Cu. I posted in the S1 addiction thread but GG is now offering two Brass editions (PVD and Raw) in NW. No information on the UI but I expect same as the Ti. I am hoping they will follow with a Bronze edition. Other exotic metals may be too much to hope for but this light is perfect for exotics given its miniature size.
> 
> Not sure why Olight switched the UI in the middle of production; seems strange. Still, although I prefer LMH (or moonlight-LMH), at least I can still get to moonlight from off. Two second press is too long for middle of the night errands though. The UI switcharoo should have been more carefully considered. The S1 is nearly small enough to wear on a neck chain and it should sport the UI to go with it.
> 
> BTW, the groove at the neck of the light is perfect for a GITD o-ring. You need to lift the clip a tad to slide the o-ring through.



Got a size and a source for the gitd o-ring?


----------



## monanza

Oops, can't believe I forgot to do so, sorry about that! I am using a 18 x 15 x 1.5 mm (outer x inner x thickness). I bought mine at kaidomain.


----------



## Joe Talmadge

Speedfreakz said:


> My black keepower 16340 fit fine



Well, we've now gotten different experiences on both the Olight and Keepower ... wondering if just one person's light was a little short or something... Okay, updated table:

*Seem to fit:*
AW RCR123 (protected): reports indicate both older and newer cells fit
Nitecore RCR123 (protected)
IMRs (assume any IMR, because they're unprotected)

*One person had trouble getting these to fit, but others didn't:*
Olight RCR (protected)
Keepower RCR (protected)

And, a note on batteries: one person measured current draw for the S1 on high as 1.8A, which is over 2C if you believe the ratings on the battery wrapper, or closer to 3C if you think most 16340s are really about 600mAh... all of which is over the 2C that's usually recommended for ICRs. Still wondering what the risks are here ... just shortening the battery life? Anyone recommending IMRs instead?


----------



## firsttothescene

monanza said:


> Yes, solid Cu. I posted in the S1 addiction thread but GG is now offering two Brass editions (PVD and Raw) in NW. No information on the UI but I expect same as the Ti. I am hoping they will follow with a Bronze edition. Other exotic metals may be too much to hope for but this light is perfect for exotics given its miniature size.
> 
> Not sure why Olight switched the UI in the middle of production; seems strange. Still, although I prefer LMH (or moonlight-LMH), at least I can still get to moonlight from off. Two second press is too long for middle of the night errands though. The UI switcharoo should have been more carefully considered. The S1 is nearly small enough to wear on a neck chain and it should sport the UI to go with it.
> 
> BTW, the groove at the neck of the light is perfect for a GITD o-ring. You need to lift the clip a tad to slide the o-ring through.


Thank you.


----------



## ponger

jswe said:


> I'm using S1 baton with Olight's own 650 mAh RCR123A. These fit without any problems.



Same here.


----------



## GoingGear.com

monanza said:


> Yes, solid Cu. I posted in the S1 addiction thread but GG is now offering two Brass editions (PVD and Raw) in NW. No information on the UI but I expect same as the Ti. I am hoping they will follow with a Bronze edition. Other exotic metals may be too much to hope for but this light is perfect for exotics given its miniature size.
> 
> Not sure why Olight switched the UI in the middle of production; seems strange. Still, although I prefer LMH (or moonlight-LMH), at least I can still get to moonlight from off. Two second press is too long for middle of the night errands though. The UI switcharoo should have been more carefully considered. The S1 is nearly small enough to wear on a neck chain and it should sport the UI to go with it.
> 
> BTW, the groove at the neck of the light is perfect for a GITD o-ring. You need to lift the clip a tad to slide the o-ring through.



Brass is the last one for now. Yes, same interface as the S1-Ti.

It's not 2 seconds to moonlight. As measured by others, it's a little over a second.


----------



## andrewnewman

So I have to admit I *love* the new UI. I always hated mode memory because I could never remember what mode I left the light in. It usually took me about 10 minutes to forget what mode I had previously been in. Now my light forgets with me. Perfect


----------



## apisdorf

I have what will probably be a silly question: The PVD coated Cu and Br lights look the same to me. How close is the color of the two when viewed in person? Also, I know copper is heavier than brass but does the copper light feel any heavier than the brass light?


----------



## Prepped

andrewnewman said:


> So I have to admit I *love* the new UI. I always hated mode memory because I could never remember what mode I left the light in. It usually took me about 10 minutes to forget what mode I had previously been in. Now my light forgets with me. Perfect



I agree completely. Sadly, I have one with the old UI.


----------



## monanza

apisdorf said:


> I have what will probably be a silly question: The PVD coated Cu and Br lights look the same to me. How close is the color of the two when viewed in person? Also, I know copper is heavier than brass but does the copper light feel any heavier than the brass light?



Good questions: the Brass is still a week or two out but I'll be sure to post when I have it in hand; it should be yellower than the PVD Cu. At 71 grams for the Cu the Brass should be about 65 grams; I doubt it will be noticeable. Both are nearly twice the weight of the Ti (42 grams without battery). These numbers are measured on a kitchen scale and are pretty close to Olight's quotes.

Here is a picture of the light with a GITD ring:







I tried removing the clip and using two o-rings in its groove but it looked meh (needs a GITD gasket instead)! Also, you can't use one between tailcap and body; a small turn is enough to lock the light out (besides there is not enough thickness to hold it).


----------



## Prepped

monanza said:


> Good questions: the Brass is still a week or two out but I'll be sure to post when I have it in hand; it should be yellower than the PVD Cu. At 71 grams for the Cu the Brass should be about 65 grams; I doubt it will be noticeable. Both are nearly twice the weight of the Ti (42 grams without battery). These numbers are measured on a kitchen scale and are pretty close to Olight's quotes.
> 
> Here is a picture of the light with a GITD ring:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried removing the clip and using two o-rings in its groove but it looked meh (needs a GITD gasket instead)! Also, you can't use one between tailcap and body; a small turn is enough to lock the light out (besides there is not enough thickness to hold it).


 How the heck is the Ti coming in at 42g without a battery, when my aluminium version comes in at 30g, with magnet and clip installed (without battery)???? Which equates to 1.05oz (per Olight spec, also) 

?????

With a CR123, magnet and clip installed, I'm getting 47g (1.66 oz)


----------



## monanza

The Ti is 58 grams with battery. I just finished reading _UPz's S1 Ti review thread and he gets 42.9 grams without battery (59 grams with). Ti is 60% heavier than 6061 Al and accounting for steel trim, the weight seems reasonable to me.


----------



## Prepped

monanza said:


> The Ti is 58 grams with battery. I just finished reading _UPz's S1 Ti review thread and he gets 42.9 grams without battery (59 grams with). Ti is 60% heavier than 6061 Al and accounting for steel trim, the weight seems reasonable to me.



Good to know, I was under the misconception that it would be lighter. Glad I haven't bought one now!


----------



## jeff400650

If I recall correctly, Olight's site shows the Ti as lighter than the Al.

Yeah, just checked

Al 1.6 oz
Ti 1.46 oz

I primarily will be using this as a cap light, so even though the copper ones look great, I won't be getting them since they are a full ounce heavier than Ti or Al. And they have cool white emitters. I have a polished Ti (nw) and an Al (cw) on the way. Eager! This will be my first Titanium light. Good to go with formal wear, Ha ha.


----------



## Trevilux

My old S10 XM-L (awful tint) Vs news S1: Aluminium CW and Ti bead blasted NW:












Some information about S1 Ti in a little review (in spanish, sorry)
http://luxlinternas.blogspot.com.es/2015/11/olight-s1-ti-bead-blasting.html


----------



## Prepped

jeff400650 said:


> If I recall correctly, Olight's site shows the Ti as lighter than the Al.
> 
> Yeah, just checked
> 
> Al 1.6 oz
> Ti 1.46 oz
> 
> I primarily will be using this as a cap light, so even though the copper ones look great, I won't be getting them since they are a full ounce heavier than Ti or Al. And they have cool white emitters. I have a polished Ti (nw) and an Al (cw) on the way. Eager! This will be my first Titanium light. Good to go with formal wear, Ha ha.



Yeah, I'm pretty picky about weight with this type of light. This I what I take with me on field ops, and I weigh every piece of gear I have. Ounces add up, man...


----------



## moses

*Best prices on standard S1? Black Friday?*

Short of going to ebay and giving a 'best offer' counter offer, which dealer in the USA has the best prices currently? CPF coupon code, black friday, or any other offer.... 

Thanks!
Mo


----------



## NoNotAgain

jeff400650 said:


> If I recall correctly, Olight's site shows the Ti as lighter than the Al.
> 
> I have a polished Ti (nw) and an Al (cw) on the way. Eager! This will be my first Titanium light. Good to go with formal wear, Ha ha.


 The polished Titanium looks sharp.

I have the polished Titanium, Raw Copper and Rose Gold Copper. They're all good looking lights, though I wish Olight would have used the same color scheme on the bezel and the switch rings.

Remember the polarity is backwards of most lights with the positive facing the tail cap.

Going Gear is supposed to be getting in lights with the stainless steel accouterments soon, so there's another couple S1's to add to the collection.


----------



## monanza

*Re: Best prices on standard S1? Black Friday?*



moses said:


> Short of going to ebay and giving a 'best offer' counter offer, which dealer in the USA has the best prices currently? CPF coupon code, black friday, or any other offer....



Mo, I think all USA dealers have same price 10% off today. GoingGear's CPF coupon gives you the same 10% (after the sale, can't combine). All dealers seem bound by some type of MAP.

Cheers,
Mo


----------



## summer1323

I only care about that if I want to buy this one, how much should I pay for it???


----------



## firsttothescene

That looks awesome! Where did you get the ring?


----------



## TheShadowGuy

With all the S1 variants, I kind of want to see someone collect them all + a couple Vinh modded ones and take an S1 family photo. 

Really though, it is nice to see so many material options for a nicely designed small light.


----------



## firsttothescene

Brass or copper? Which is best? Pro's and con's of each.


----------



## jswe

firsttothescene said:


> Brass or copper? Which is best? Pro's and con's of each.



Brass is an alloy made of copper and zinc. Both metals are not-so-strong, so be careful when tightening the tail cap. Brass will darken over time (if you choose the raw, uncoated version) and if exposed to salty air/water, may experience worse corrosion (dark spots). 

Copper will over time get a grey-greenish patina, similar to the statue of Liberty. I am not sure the flashlight will survive that long though. 

As for the functional aspect, I believe (from reading Going Gear's product description) that the CU one has a cool white emitter, while the brass one will emit neutral white light. 

I have ordered the raw CU version, and debating with myself whether I should also order the brass one .


----------



## monanza

firsttothescene, if you mean the GITD o-ring, I got those from kaidomain, see post 729 for details and link.

Olight, thanks for clarification of moon times. I have confirmed my Tis (not the drink, the Olight, heheh) are less than two seconds to moonlight.

jswe, what's to debate? This is CPF right? Order it and save yourself the trouble of deciding!


----------



## Prepped

*Re: *new* Olight S11R - XM-L2, (R)CR123*



Jiri said:


> Ok. I re-measured the runtimes of different pieces of Olight S1 on moonlight mode with different batteries. One piece of Olight S1 with AW 750 mAh 16340 li-ion battery (fully charged by NiteCore D4) runtime on moonlight mode 4 days and 16 hours. Different piece of Olight S1 with Fenix 16340 (700 mAh) li-ion battery (fully charged by Nitecore D4) runtime on moonlight mode 4 days 6 hours. I took third piece of Olight S1 with different Fenix 16340 battery (700 mAh) the result was pretty same.
> 
> I wish someone else would pay attention to my findings and could run some test as well. Because I really find it outrages that Olight states with ANSI standards that runtime on moonlight mode with 16340 RCR123A battery (650 mAh) should be up to 15 days!!! Nobody here find it interesting or odd??
> 
> Thank you guys!



I had to dig a little to find this post, but has anyone else replicated this, or tested the run time with a primary cell?


----------



## jswe

monanza said:


> firsttothescene, if you mean the GITD o-ring, I got those from kaidomain, see post 729 for details and link.
> 
> jswe, what's to debate? This is CPF right? Order it and save yourself the trouble of deciding!



Already done. Now I just need a way to stealthily sneak all these S1s into the home, without my better half finding out... :-X


----------



## firsttothescene

jswe said:


> Brass is an alloy made of copper and zinc. Both metals are not-so-strong, so be careful when tightening the tail cap. Brass will darken over time (if you choose the raw, uncoated version) and if exposed to salty air/water, may experience worse corrosion (dark spots).
> 
> Copper will over time get a grey-greenish patina, similar to the statue of Liberty. I am not sure the flashlight will survive that long though.
> 
> As for the functional aspect, I believe (from reading Going Gear's product description) that the CU one has a cool white emitter, while the brass one will emit neutral white light.
> 
> I have ordered the raw CU version, and debating with myself whether I should also order the brass one .


. Thank you.


----------



## firsttothescene

monanza said:


> firsttothescene, if you mean the GITD o-ring, I got those from kaidomain, see post 729 for details and link.
> 
> Olight, thanks for clarification of moon times. I have confirmed my Tis (no the drink, tjhe Olight, heheh) are less than two seconds to moonlight.
> 
> jswe, what's to debate? This is CPF right? Order it and save yourself the trouble of deciding!


 yes, I did mean the GITD ring, it looks great. Thanks for the info.


----------



## GoingGear.com

TheShadowGuy said:


> With all the S1 variants, I kind of want to see someone collect them all + a couple Vinh modded ones and take an S1 family photo.
> 
> Really though, it is nice to see so many material options for a nicely designed small light.




Give me a couple weeks to get all of them in.


----------



## jruser

GoingGear, can you confirm that the brass is NW? The title on your site says neutral, but the table at the bottom says cool.


----------



## firsttothescene

Can't decide between brass or copper. On the raw ones, can light performance change for the worse as the patina develops? Also, which one handles heat transfer better?


----------



## firsttothescene

Monanza, I just ordered those rings. How long does it take usually to receive items from that place?


----------



## monanza

It took a couple of weeks to get to me, at most three. I wish there were more vendors selling GITD o-rings. Anyone know of a source state side?


----------



## Speedfreakz

monanza said:


> It took a couple of weeks to get to me, at most three. I wish there were more vendors selling GITD o-rings. Anyone know of a source state side?



+1


----------



## wjv

Got my S1 today.

NICE!!!!

I compared it to my Fenix PD25.

- It's about the same thickness as the PD25
- It's about 40% shorter then the PD25
- The hot-spot portion of the beam is about 2.1X - 2.2X wider than the PD25 so it's very floody

I'll have to compare it with my Spark SG5 later and see how the hot-spot matches with that. The SG5 is the most floody small edc light that I currently have.

The tint is also very good. White with very little discoloration around the edges. I always avoided Olight because of their rep for lights with green tint. I'm a bit of a tint snob and I'm quite happy with this light!

OK: The Spark wins when it comes to floodyness. The "hotspot" on the Spark SG5 is about 4X wider than the one on the S1. There really is n hot spot with the SG5. just a huge ball of light with no artifacts and great tint.


----------



## GoingGear.com

jruser said:


> GoingGear, can you confirm that the brass is NW? The title on your site says neutral, but the table at the bottom says cool.



Both brass finishes are NW, same tint as the S1-Ti.


----------



## rookiedaddy

nice little lights.


----------



## wjv

GoingGear. . . Thanks for the quick deliver of my S1, even though I had "free delivery" it still arrived in just a few days!


----------



## firsttothescene

Bummer, no more "buzz" about the good ol' s1.


----------



## firsttothescene

Anyone pick up the brass one yet? If so, how is it?


----------



## akhyar

firsttothescene said:


> Anyone pick up the brass one yet? If so, how is it?



Just seen on GG Instag that they have received the brass version and ready to ship, so maybe no one have received them yet from GG


----------



## moses

Just got one in from a US dealer today. Very bright and small indeed. 

1. Is this supposed to come with a CR123 cell? Or not? 

2. I'm a bit confused - do these have memory for last brightness used or not? 

Thanks!


----------



## akhyar

moses said:


> Just got one in from a US dealer today. Very bright and small indeed.
> 
> 1. Is this supposed to come with a CR123 cell? Or not?
> 
> 2. I'm a bit confused - do these have memory for last brightness used or not?
> 
> Thanks!



1. The black (aluminium) S1 does not come with CR123 from the factory. If your's come with CR123, the cell is from the dealer/shop.
2. The new UI have memory mode for last brigness, except for Moonlight mode. The older model comes with memory mode including Moonlight.


----------



## moses

Thank you. Perfect. 

Final question - do they make the regular aluminum one with neutral rather than cool white? 

Thanks!



akhyar said:


> 1. The black (aluminium) S1 does not come with CR123 from the factory. If your's come with CR123, the cell is from the dealer/shop.
> 2. The new UI have memory mode for last brigness, except for Moonlight mode. The older model comes with memory mode including Moonlight.


----------



## akhyar

moses said:


> Thank you. Perfect.
> 
> Final question - do they make the regular aluminum one with neutral rather than cool white?
> 
> Thanks!



So far, only cool white, but you might never know if they will offer this option in the future.
IIRC, only the titanium and GG brass versions come in neutral white.


----------



## firsttothescene

The raw brass looks nice. As the light develops a patina can this affect the operation of the light.


----------



## GoingGear.com

firsttothescene said:


> The raw brass looks nice. As the light develops a patina can this affect the operation of the light.




No, it won't affect the operation.


----------



## Dragunbayne

I got the bead blasted titanium version and I absolutely love it! I'm torn on whether to use the wrist strap. I like the idea, but it just seems out of place on such a tiny light. This thing is so useful, good modes, great ui, and so easy to carry.


----------



## recDNA

How do you switch modes?


----------



## UnderPar

Olight S1 has become one if my fav EDC light..... It always goes along with my SC 62w...


----------



## firsttothescene

GoingGear.com said:


> No, it won't affect the operation.


Thanks


----------



## Jiri

wjv said:


> I compared it to my Fenix PD25.
> 
> - It's about the same thickness as the PD25
> - It's about 40% shorter then the PD25
> - The hot-spot portion of the beam is about 2.1X - 2.2X wider than the PD25 so it's very floody


----------



## ikelo

The S1 is the first light I've bought in a while. I think it's incredible.


----------



## SureAddicted

Just recieved an S1 Ti, nice and compact.
Olight RCR fits with no issues.
No memory mode on moonlight, doesn't affect me as I don't use moonlight mode.
Compared to S10 NW, the tint is much more pleasing.
What I"m not happy about is the 10 minute reset back to low. Had I known this or read this thread I wouldn't of bought it. 
I also have an S2 coming in, I hope this "safety feature" isn't carried over.


----------



## Dimethyl

SureAddicted said:


> What I"m not happy about is the 10 minute reset back to low. Had I known this or read this thread I wouldn't of bought it.
> I also have an S2 coming in, I hope this "safety feature" isn't carried over.



The S2 has a 10 minute memory limit for turbo (950lm). There is, however, no such limit for the high mode (400lm).


----------



## SureAddicted

Dimethyl said:


> The S2 has a 10 minute memory limit for turbo (950lm). There is, however, no such limit for the high mode (400lm).




Now I regret buying both.


----------



## Dimethyl

SureAddicted said:


> Now I regret buying both.



At least you can double-click from off to go directly into turbo.


----------



## swan

I just got the NW S1 polished Titanium today and thought i would post a couple of observations from my sample. The first thing i normally do with a new light is throw in a fresh cell and run it on my homemade light box.
I lucked out here, with neutrals normally having less grunt, i got a hot rod. It is actually 6% brighter than my CW S1 - yee ha! I measure it at 600 + lumens on a new aw imr cell.
The TI really is very well made and the finish is incredible giving it a very high class feel and appearance.
One thing of note is tint is on the warmer side of neutral.
I have been using my aluminium S1 daily for a couple of months now and it has exceeded all expectations and put my zebralight sc52 in to retirement. This new superb Ti S1 will now take number one position as my edc.
Just a comment on the new ui, i find if i use my light in the middle of the night i find myself doing the longer press for moonlight any way because i cant always remember what mode i left it on and [as stated above] the high can be accessed with a double click.
Although i thought i would prefer the earlier ui, after using this special little light for a couple hours, its not really that different and non issue for me.


----------



## markr6

I finally bought one of these...just the standard black version.

WOW!!!!!!! TINY!!! All the photos online just seem to double the size of it.

1. Tint: an absolute joke! The worst (cool white) I've seen on any light so far.
2. UI: another joke. It takes FOREVER to cycle thru. Slow, slow, slow.

I can't believe these are so popular! I only paid about $16 since I had a voucher, so I don't really care. And it will be used as a light in my shed, which I rarely go into when it's dark. I just wanted something in there in case I go out and forget to take a light with me. The CR123 aspect of the light makes sense since it will see very hot and cold temps.


----------



## Oztorchfreak

markr6 said:


> I finally bought one of these...just the standard black version.
> 
> WOW!!!!!!! TINY!!! All the photos online just seem to double the size of it.
> 
> 1. Tint: an absolute joke! The worst (cool white) I've seen on any light so far.
> 2. UI: another joke. It takes FOREVER to cycle thru. Slow, slow, slow.
> 
> I can't believe these are so popular! I only paid about $16 since I had a voucher, so I don't really care. And it will be used as a light in my shed, which I rarely go into when it's dark. I just wanted something in there in case I go out and forget to take a light with me. The CR123 aspect of the light makes sense since it will see very hot and cold temps.





You either received a bad light or you have a very different set of eyes to most of us happy flashaholics.

My S1 tint is beautiful in cool white.

I use RCR123 rechargeable batteries that last long enough to suit the needs of a pocket EDC.

The UI is typical of Olight and I do not mind cycling around to get the different modes.

It does have some shortcuts.

I have bought 3 black ones for myself and 2 rose gold ones as presents and all of them have perfectly nice cool white tints.


CHEERS


----------



## firsttothescene

Oztorchfreak said:


> You either received a bad light or you have a very different set of eyes to most of us happy flashaholics.
> 
> My S1 tint is beautiful in cool white.
> 
> I use RCR123 rechargeable batteries that last long enough to suit the needs of a pocket EDC.
> 
> The UI is typical of Olight and I do not mind cycling around to get the different modes.
> 
> It does have some shortcuts.
> 
> I have bought 3 black ones for myself and 2 rose gold ones as presents and all of them have perfectly nice cool white tints.
> 
> 
> CHEERS


+1 &#55357;&#56833;


----------



## firsttothescene

Oztorchfreak said:


> You either received a bad light or you have a very different set of eyes to most of us happy flashaholics.
> 
> My S1 tint is beautiful in cool white.
> 
> I use RCR123 rechargeable batteries that last long enough to suit the needs of a pocket EDC.
> 
> The UI is typical of Olight and I do not mind cycling around to get the different modes.
> 
> It does have some shortcuts.
> 
> I have bought 3 black ones for myself and 2 rose gold ones as presents and all of them have perfectly nice cool white tints.
> 
> 
> CHEERS


+1 😁


----------



## nimdabew

I must be one of the few (if any) ones that is underwhelmed by the light. I find the smaller size to be a determent since it makes the light harder to hold since my hand feels like it folds around the light if I don't hold it with my finger tips. Maybe it is the Cu body since it is heavier, or maybe since I am used to my PD22UEwhich has a longer body. It is a nice light, and I have one in Al, Cu, and Ti, but if I had purchased the S1 before the Cu and Ti, I probably wouldn't have purchased the Cu and Ti. I would probably have purchased the PD25 with the extra cash and a few 12 racks of beer instead.


----------



## swan

After using my exceptional titanium s1 for a couple of weeks i love every thing about it - except the neutral/warm tint.

I prefer the premium white tint of my cw black S1, which renders colours accurately, without that old incandescent yellow/orange tint that neutral/warm tinted leds tend to have.

The tir optic excels in this tiny light, with zero tint shift right across the white beam with a wide equal intensity which is very handy in an edc.

I have tried to like the neutral tint, but it just makes everything yellow , i just want it to have the premium tint of my cw one. If i can slip the bezel out , i just found a copper 14mm t-pad and a xml2 u4 1a at cutters electronics, time to make the Ti S1 how it should of been, equal to the premium tint of my premium cw aluminium model.

This little light is the best edc of 2015, terrific value, tiny size, great beam [no tint shift like zebralight yellow/green coronas] and 5 yrs warranty.


----------



## wolfgaze

Swan, the tint color is different across various versions of the S1?

I haven't looked into this but I guess I would have assumed they would utilize the same LED... I own the S2 and I like the beam coloration...


----------



## swan

wolfgaze said:


> Swan, the tint color is different across various versions of the S1?
> 
> I haven't looked into this but I guess I would have assumed they would utilize the same LED... I own the S2 and I like the beam coloration...



Hey wolfgaze, yes they have Cool white and Neutral white in the various s1 models. I have the titanium nw polished and the aluminium black cw versions.
I know the ti polished and ti bead blasted come in nw only and the black in cw only - but im not sure on the brass and coppers.


----------



## akhyar

wolfgaze said:


> Swan, the tint color is different across various versions of the S1?
> 
> I haven't looked into this but I guess I would have assumed they would utilize the same LED... I own the S2 and I like the beam coloration...



Black (Alu), Copper - Cool white
Titanium, Brass - Neutral white


----------



## wolfgaze

Thanks for the information!


----------



## run4jc

wolfgaze said:


> Swan, the tint color is different across various versions of the S1?
> 
> I haven't looked into this but I guess I would have assumed they would utilize the same LED... I own the S2 and I like the beam coloration...



Some have the cool white XM-L2 - some have the neutral. Beyond my 4 I'm not sure how it breaks down, but my aluminum S1 is cool white - my rose copper, bead blast ti and polished ti are all neutral white. Neutral is my preference, but the cool white is nice - mine has no green tint; just a nice, creamy white.


----------



## recDNA

I find my sc32w uncomfortably short to hold. If the aluminum (lightest weight) model came with a keychain loop and no magnet (I carry flash drive on keychain) it might make a nice keychain light. I used to carry a D25C on my keychain but finally decided it was a little too long and heavy..

Does anybody carry the s1 on your keychain? If so how about a picture? How is it working out for you?


----------



## akhyar

recDNA said:


> I find my sc32w uncomfortably short to hold. If the aluminum (lightest weight) model came with a keychain loop and no magnet (I carry flash drive on keychain) it might make a nice keychain light. I used to carry a D25C on my keychain but finally decided it was a little too long and heavy..
> 
> Does anybody carry the s1 on your keychain? If so how about a picture? How is it working out for you?



I've seen some posts that the magnet inside the tailcap is easily removable.
I find it too big for a keychain light as my keychain lights are the diminutive CooYoo Quantum or the Nitecore Tube


----------



## flashlightsandgolf

Loving the S1 light. I need a couple more for each car. I have both the NW and CW version and don't see anything wrong with their output


----------



## trailhunter

firsttothescene said:


> +1 




+1 don't flame the s1 - this thing is badass


----------



## Ryp

Does anyone have the brass version? Pictures would be appreciated. It looks the best, imo.


----------



## Lightsable

I owned/bought/used/collected many flashlights for many years and like most peeps here I started with the Maglite then transitioning to LED lights. Having used and bought many different EDC and big D cell lights and C cells flashlights in many different countries and situations (Civilian and Military) this little light is the most impressive one I had seen in a L O N G time!
When I received my first one right after Thanksgiving I was awestruck at this little jewel, and it still has it's first CR123 Streamlight battery that I am using everyday. 

I have been lurking on this forum for a long time (7-8 years) and I decided to join the CPF in order to get in on the GB from dazed1. Bought 5X S1 and 2 S10 with dazed1 GB. They will all be gifts to family members and I am sure they will be stoked when they get it!

Can't say enough good things about this little jewel. 

_____________________
Favorite LED lights:
*Olight S1 Baton*
*Fenix PD35TAC*
*Nitecore P12*

Others:
Fenix PD35
Nitecore S3 SRT
Fenix PD25
Fenix TK15
Streamlight TLR
Surefire X300
Surefire X400


----------



## Jiri

swan said:


> After using my exceptional titanium s1 for a couple of weeks i love every thing about it - except the neutral/warm tint.
> 
> I prefer the premium white tint of my cw black S1, which renders colours accurately, without that old incandescent yellow/orange tint that neutral/warm tinted leds tend to have.
> 
> I have tried to like the neutral tint, but it just makes everything yellow , i just want it to have the premium tint of my cw one.



I have a very similar taste for tint's as you do. But I see so many people on CPF crying out loud for more neutral white LED's in flashlights. I prefer cool white, similar to the most recent XM-L2 U2 LED's. Only exception is for my headlamp which I use in my medical pratice where you need a better color rendering of tissues.


----------



## trailhunter

My copper variants came in the mail today, wow - the craftsmanship and the light output is amazing. It had more wow factor to my family than my tm36 which can reach low level clouds of course due to its size and assumtpion of a tiny light not being so bright. I'll need to pick up the titanium and brass versions, I don't feel complete without them


----------



## swan

Jiri said:


> I have a very similar taste for tint's as you do. But I see so many people on CPF crying out loud for more neutral white LED's in flashlights. I prefer cool white, similar to the most recent XM-L2 U2 LED's. Only exception is for my headlamp which I use in my medical pratice where you need a better color rendering of tissues.



Hey Jiri- yes wish i had a dollar for every time i have read the comment 'does it come in neutral' i think cool whites are unfairly portrayed in beam shots due to camera settings and tend to make any cw look blue, which is exaggerated especially when next to neutral or warm tinted lights all in the same pic. This can leave a false impression with newbies to this forum and they probably think all cool white leds have a bright blue beam , when in fact its white. I think people have all different tint preferences, mtg2 is nice , but for me, i prefer the modern premium cool whites that render colours properly and have a nice white beam.


----------



## swan

trailhunter said:


> My copper variants came in the mail today, wow - the craftsmanship and the light output is amazing. It had more wow factor to my family than my tm36 which can reach low level clouds of course due to its size and assumtpion of a tiny light not being so bright. I'll need to pick up the titanium and brass versions, I don't feel complete without them



I hear you trailhunter, the polished ti finish is superb, i am going to get the copper rose gold next.


----------



## Nordac

I thought about buying an S1 but went with the S10R II.


----------



## trailhunter

Has anyone tried removing the internals including the bezel and lens? I want to try a patina method by torch, I tried it on the cap and it came out nice


----------



## trailhunter

Egg patina on the body and flame patina on the cap and clip


----------



## rrego

Ryp, I have the brass & copper (raw versions). Of these, I prefer the brass due to the neutral white tint, but I do like the copper also. I normally don't like bling in general, but wanted to treat myself to some new lights and another brand to try out. The last picture is the brass with a D25A Ti & E99 Ti. I forgot to get my iTP A3 EOS Ti in the pic.

Here are a few pics.




.


----------



## firsttothescene

swan said:


> Hey Jiri- yes wish i had a dollar for every time i have read the comment 'does it come in neutral' i think cool whites are unfairly portrayed in beam shots due to camera settings and tend to make any cw look blue, which is exaggerated especially when next to neutral or warm tinted lights all in the same pic. This can leave a false impression with newbies to this forum and they probably think all cool white leds have a bright blue beam , when in fact its white. I think people have all different tint preferences, mtg2 is nice , but for me, i prefer the modern premium cool whites that render colours properly and have a nice white beam.


 +1


----------



## Ryp

rrego said:


> Ryp, I have the brass & copper (raw versions). Of these, I prefer the brass due to the neutral white tint, but I do like the copper also. I normally don't like bling in general, but wanted to treat myself to some new lights and another brand to try out. The last picture is the brass with a D25A Ti & E99 Ti. I forgot to get my iTP A3 EOS Ti in the pic.



Thanks the for pictures! The brass definitely looks nice.



firsttothescene said:


> +1



+1


----------



## Megaman85

I 3D printed out a little piece to go under the clip. Since Olight just re-purposed the S10 clip, it has that step right in the middle of the clip for no reason and it really irritated me.




http://imgur.com/a/erZ0i
I sanded the ramped face of the piece with 220, then 400, then 600 grit to give it a nice smooth surface, then just superglued it to the flat where the polarity is indicated.

If anyone else wants to print their own, you can search for "S1 Clip Guide" on OnShape to find the CAD file.

If you don't have a 3D printer,but really want to try it, just PM me and I could probably just send you one for free.

Mega


----------



## gunga

Great work!


----------



## trailhunter

Can a IMR18350 battery work for this light?


----------



## swan

trailhunter said:


> Can a IMR18350 battery work for this light?



No, even if you could bore it out, there is not enough metal on the milled flats that the 'Olight' and 'S1 Baton' are printed on which only measure 19mm od.

I guess what makes this edc light stand out from the crowd, is its diminutve size which makes it so easy to carry.

Just a unrelated comment - to add to the list of stand out features that i really like about the s1, is the ability to access and memorize my most used output level- med mode from one click.


----------



## Skaaphaas

I really wanted the Ti version, but our SA importer has informed me that it will not be possible. I really don't know if I should go for the Al one.


----------



## swan

Skaaphaas said:


> I really wanted the Ti version, but our SA importer has informed me that it will not be possible. I really don't know if I should go for the Al one.


I would order both -plenty available all over the net but i agree its always nice to get one from a local dealer. The Ti polished version really is a superb peice of luxury for a edc, it makes me feel rich.


----------



## Skaaphaas

swan said:


> I would order both -plenty available all over the net but i agree its always nice to get one from a local dealer. The Ti polished version really is a superb peice of luxury for a edc, it makes me feel rich.


Unfortunately our exchange rate tanked big time in December, so buying from overseas, with international shipping and then import duties etc is not going to be worthwhile.


----------



## wolfgaze

I do like the design of this flashlight (I also own the S2 Baton)... However if I ever purchased it I would have to ditch the pocket clip - as I believe it's the same one used on the S2 and I found it to be too obtrusive and I had issues with it being difficult to clip onto and remove from my thicker style pants pockets...


----------



## vadimax

I've got the Ti polished version. The light itself is a small piece of perfection, but the clip... It is rather strong and has two places of obstruction, so to get it properly clipped on a thicker tissue (denim, whatever) will for sure always be followed with curses.


----------



## vadimax

You might order one on eBay. I hope they are still available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olight-S1-T...b503d14&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&sd=201467440464


----------



## wolfgaze

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on this light. I just want to check in advance that I shouldn't have any issue utilizing these specific Eagletac Rechargeable 16340 (RCR123) batteries with this flashlight:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YAVB7U2/?tag=cpf0b6-20

Only reason I ask is that I have noticed when reading flashlight reviews that there are instances where users will report issues with certain batteries fitting into certain lights. 

Thanks....


----------



## wolfgaze

Edited: Disregard, I found my answer regarding runtimes with rechargeable batteries on the batteryjunction website...


----------



## AceGoliath

Just ordered a Raw Cu and a blasted Ti. Can't wait for these to come. Looking at getting an AL for EDC/pocket carry too.


----------



## CaptBW

Greetings to all my new friends. Just signed up on CPF.
I purchased the S1 Baton and I am very happy with the light. I have the plain Jane black version. I removed the pocket clip. It just did not work for me. 
I like the wrist strap.

My first tiny light is the Fenix P1 at an amazing 80 lumens (reported). I thought it was great, but the S1 rocks my world.

See you around the forums!


----------



## wolfgaze

Welcome to the forum CaptBW... Glad you're enjoying your S1, I am too...


----------



## tops2

Welcome CaptBW! I'm still enjoying mine too. I love playing with the magnetic tail much more than I expected.


----------



## turkeylord

Finally attempted to remove the bezel on my copper S1. The tool I used is a Craftsman Handi-Cut (pictured). Kind of a rolling motion on the razor's edge while applying pressure to get it moving, then I put a small bevel on one edge of the back of the blade to wedge it out further. A little more fiddling and it came out.







Space for the MCPCB is about 15mm.


----------



## turkeylord

And just for giggles:






Reflector is out of a 47's MiniAA. Beam is totally decent (still floody), but I would need to shorten it a bit to make room for a lens.


----------



## wolfgaze

Has anyone else experienced any 'funny business' with regards to the timer feature/function? What I experienced is that when the light is on, and you do the double-tap to engage the timer, I am getting mixed results with the order in which the two different timers engage. Sometimes it's reversed for some reason...

First instance, after the first double-tap (with the light already on), I believe the light should flash twice to indicate the first timer is activated... Then if you double-tap again, you should get 3 flashes to indicate the other timer is activated... However, sometimes when the light is off, I'll turn it on, and do the double-tap - and the first sequence is 3 flashes... I'm not sure why this is happening... It's not a big deal/issue for me as I will rarely use the timer function - however I'm kind of curious about what is happening....


----------



## Wet

wolfgaze said:


> Has anyone else experienced any 'funny business' with regards to the timer feature/function? What I experienced is that when the light is on, and you do the double-tap to engage the timer, I am getting mixed results with the order in which the two different timers engage. Sometimes it's reversed for some reason...
> 
> First instance, after the first double-tap (with the light already on), I believe the light should flash twice to indicate the first timer is activated... Then if you double-tap again, you should get 3 flashes to indicate the other timer is activated... However, sometimes when the light is off, I'll turn it on, and do the double-tap - and the first sequence is 3 flashes... I'm not sure why this is happening... It's not a big deal/issue for me as I will rarely use the timer function - however I'm kind of curious about what is happening....


 I think the S1 remembers the timer mode you used last time and engages it at first. However if you take the battery out and click the switch, the memory gets cleared and it defaults to 3 minute timer again.



turkeylord said:


> Finally attempted to remove the bezel on my copper S1.


 Good job!


----------



## vadimax

Hmmm... After some experiments have found no system at all. But it looks something like that:

If you don't switch the light off, double clicks just rotate 2 and 3 flashes.

If you switch the light off between double clicks, the first to come is the last used number of flashes.


----------



## turkeylord

Copper and Titanium S1's up on massdrop.com right now, I had to snag another raw copper version.


----------



## PROTOOLNUT

*Re: *new* Olight S11(R) - XM-L2, (R)CR123*

In my experience, blue always looks good with black, and that thing is so small that I deem it as cute lol. I agree with what some other's have said on the first page, I'd prefer 18650 batteries because not only is that the platform I am running on, but I also don't like the poor runtime of CR123's. But that would be the perfect pocket size light to carry with you when your walking the dog.


----------



## Skaaphaas

PROTOOLNUT said:


> In my experience, blue always looks good with black, and that thing is so small that I deem it as cute lol. I agree with what some other's have said on the first page, I'd prefer 18650 batteries because not only is that the platform I am running on, but I also don't like the poor runtime of CR123's. But that would be the perfect pocket size light to carry with you when your walking the dog.


So... The S2, then?


----------



## PROTOOLNUT

Short answer...YES


----------



## Skaaphaas

PROTOOLNUT said:


> Short answer...YES


I played with one a week ago. It has a few weird quirks that I didn't like so much. The double-click to high gives a momentary flash of the lower mode, that is probably logical but the S1 doesn't do it. 

Then it has lag before switching off after pressing the button. It's nothing major but is noticeable. 

Think I prefer my S1, even with the lower runtimes. I use RCR123 in it, and have found that a battery change every weekend is fine for my use. I mostly use my lights on Saturday evenings, so a fresh cell on Saturday morning easily lasts me the whole week. I don't really need the added capacity of a 18650 in it, and I carry spare cells with me in my go-bag anyway, should something go wrong and I need more light for longer.


----------



## turkeylord

Modded another S1 for a buddy.

Open





Little too big





That's better





Swappin





In





And back together


----------



## gunga

Nice. What's your method for removing and installing the bezel?


----------



## turkeylord

gunga said:


> Nice. What's your method for removing and installing the bezel?





turkeylord said:


> Finally attempted to remove the bezel on my copper S1. The tool I used is a Craftsman Handi-Cut (pictured). Kind of a rolling motion on the razor's edge while applying pressure to get it moving, then I put a small bevel on one edge of the back of the blade to wedge it out further. A little more fiddling and it came out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Space for the MCPCB is about 15mm.



To re-install I put the bezel, optic, & light together face down on a firm surface and tapped the tail with a dead blow hammer.


----------



## sticktodrum

Wicked. Which LED did you swap with?


----------



## turkeylord

XM-L2 U3 3D ~4750k neutral from Mountain Electronics.


----------



## turkeylord

Looks like they're up on Massdrop for $32.99 shipped: http://dro.ps/b/8nlVj9l


----------



## jon_slider

spectrograph thanks to maukka S1 review, 68 CRI


----------



## sticktodrum

turkeylord said:


> XM-L2 U3 3D ~4750k neutral from Mountain Electronics.


Thanks. Would it be possible to post a couple of bits on how you swapped? Was it easy to solder the leads and/or seat the PCB?


----------



## turkeylord

sticktodrum said:


> Thanks. Would it be possible to post a couple of bits on how you swapped? Was it easy to solder the leads and/or seat the PCB?


Sure. 

Seating the MCPCB wasn't too bad, the only unexpected bit was a small step around the perimeter of where it sits. I wound up having to sand down the MCPCB a little more to get it all the way down. To verify that it was fully seated before thermal epoxying it down, I used the depth measurement on my caliper.

Sizing the MCPCB was actually done with a Dremel and sanding drum. I sanded down 4 sides, parallel to the LED's edges, keeping everything symmetrical by taking step measurements from MCPCB edge to LED edge with my caliper. I was careful not to let it get to warm either, letting it cool on a steel plate as needed. Once the 4 sides were good, I rounded out the corners, mostly by eye, and verified diameter with the caliper. Since I had sanded into the traces, I verified that the edges were clean and I didn't have any copper shavings shorting either pad to the copper base.

Be sure apply some solder paste and tin the pads before thermal epoxying the MCPCB into the light. I made a nice hot tin and left a good sized bead of solder on the pads. Soldering the wires to the pads wasn't too bad at all since I already had a good tin and all the solder I needed already on the pad.


----------



## sticktodrum

Sweet, thanks!


----------



## sticktodrum

turkeylord said:


> Sure.
> 
> Seating the MCPCB wasn't too bad, the only unexpected bit was a small step around the perimeter of where it sits. I wound up having to sand down the MCPCB a little more to get it all the way down. To verify that it was fully seated before thermal epoxying it down, I used the depth measurement on my caliper.
> 
> Sizing the MCPCB was actually done with a Dremel and sanding drum. I sanded down 4 sides, parallel to the LED's edges, keeping everything symmetrical by taking step measurements from MCPCB edge to LED edge with my caliper. I was careful not to let it get to warm either, letting it cool on a steel plate as needed. Once the 4 sides were good, I rounded out the corners, mostly by eye, and verified diameter with the caliper. Since I had sanded into the traces, I verified that the edges were clean and I didn't have any copper shavings shorting either pad to the copper base.
> 
> Be sure apply some solder paste and tin the pads before thermal epoxying the MCPCB into the light. I made a nice hot tin and left a good sized bead of solder on the pads. Soldering the wires to the pads wasn't too bad at all since I already had a good tin and all the solder I needed already on the pad.


Is that Arctic Silver you're using?


----------



## turkeylord

sticktodrum said:


> Is that Arctic Silver you're using?


Yep, exactly.


----------



## ateupwithgolf

Has anyone put in a Nichia 219 LED in the S1?


----------



## Tachead

ateupwithgolf said:


> Has anyone put in a Nichia 219 LED in the S1?



I'm guessing too much current without modding/changing the driver. It would probably get far too hot too fast on the high levels. My D25C Nichia 219 gets hot fast even at only 129-200 lumens. I'm guessing that's why even Vinh doesnt offer it as an option on his S1vn's.

Mountain electronics sells a 80+ CRI XM-L2 though if your ok with a warmer CCT around 3875-4000K.

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_61&product_id=391


----------



## JuRuKi

How do you guys know when to recharge the battery without the low voltage warning? I've been using mine for a while now and have no idea how much battery i have left. It still goes to max mode so im guessing i can keep using it? Do i use it until it doesnt go into max anymore?
Im running rcr123a (olight ones).
Thanks!


----------



## tops2

JuRuKi said:


> How do you guys know when to recharge the battery without the low voltage warning? I've been using mine for a while now and have no idea how much battery i have left. It still goes to max mode so im guessing i can keep using it? Do i use it until it doesnt go into max anymore?
> Im running rcr123a (olight ones).
> Thanks!



Lol..got annoying to take out the battery just to check the battery level. So now I kind of treat it like a smartphone. I'll charge it after ~2-3 days of sparingly usage. I'll charge it the next day if I use it heavily. I keep a Xtar MC1 at work so I just pop the battery in, plug into to work computer or iphone charger and let it do its thing.

That said, this lights isn't the light I use the most so I only have 1 RCR123a (Olight also). I think if use it more often, I'll pick another one as a spare I'll put in the rotation and just keep one outside the battery fully used.


----------



## wolfgaze

I've been using and enjoying the included diffuser wand/cap quite a bit lately.... The S1 is kind of like my nightstand light and I'll tail stand it with the diffuser cap on and then activate the 9 minute timer...


----------



## firsttothescene

wolfgaze said:


> I've been using and enjoying the included diffuser wand/cap quite a bit lately.... The S1 is kind of like my nightstand light and I'll tail stand it with the diffuser cap on and then activate the 9 minute timer...


Cool.


----------



## wolfgaze

Does anyone have any idea what type of voltage is required to run the medium (80 lumen) mode? I'm using Eagletac 750 mAh RCR123's... I feel like I didn't get all that much battery life out of a full charge- and my S1 was shutting off on me while I had it set to Medium mode (mode memory)... I would turn the light on and it would stay on for 1-2 seconds and then immediately shut off... The annoying thing is that I didn't even have the ability to cycle into Low mode.... All I could do with the light was go into Moonlight mode... Perhaps from there I could have cycled into Low mode? Anyway, I removed my battery and placed it in my Nitecore D4 charger and I believe the voltage readout was 2.7 or so.... According to Olight spec you should get about 4 hours runtime on a 650 mAh RCR123... I'm not sure I got close to that -although I didn't measure my usage in any reliable way....

For the record, I rarely use the High mode and predominantly use the Medium (80 lumen) mode... Sometims Low mode....


----------



## Skaaphaas

That's odd. I use Nitecore RCR123 (650 mAh) and I was actually impressed with the runtimes that I get.

I don't measure the runtimes by leaving it on and waiting for it to die, but just by using it normally I only charge the battery once every two weeks and then it's not dead yet.


----------



## Wet

I measured with a bench supply how many amps my S1 pulls in the brightest mode:


----------



## KeepingItLight

Fantastic data! Big thanks.

I am not completely sure how to interpret all of your data, but it seems to support concerns that a primary CR123A battery can be pushed beyond its limits by the *Olight S1*. 

CR123A typically has a maximum continuous discharge rate of 1.5 amps, with a 3.5 amp limit for pulsed discharges. Battery voltage sags considerably under load, so that may put a practical limit on the amount of current the S1 might pull. Nevertheless, it seems likely that it can exceed 1.5 amps. 

The Sanyo datasheet I have for its CR123A defines pulse discharge thusly:



> Current value for obtaining 1.0V cell voltage when pulse is applied for 15seconds at 50% discharge depth at 23 oC.



So, at 3.5 amps, the voltage sags to 1.0v in only 15 seconds. That does not sound like a good way to get the 90-second turbo boost that the S1 has. Actually, turbo mode runs relatively flat for 90 seconds, and then ramps down to half power during the following 60 seconds. The current draws, whatever they are, last way more than 15 seconds. They should, therefore, be classified as "continuous" rather than "pulse."

In order to maintain compatibility with CR123A batteries, the S1 does not have a low-voltage cutoff or safety warning. It is possible, therefore that a Li-ion 16340 battery could be over-discharged in the S1. Judging by your chart, it would not be hard to do. That is one reason why Olight recommends using a protected battery.

Of course, when you are running the S1 on a rechargeable 16340 battery, light output falls dramatically when the voltage gets too low. If you are paying attention, you cannot fail to notice. The only real danger occurs when your flashlight is accidentally activated (perhaps in a pocket or pack), or you put it down, and forget to turn it off.


----------



## HarleyXJGuy

Pretty sure it was here I read about a ninja UI change on these lights.

Not sure if Illumination Supply is still using old stock but mine is not the new UI people have been describing.

The one I have has three modes you can cycle through, love med and turbo. Moonlight is hidden and a long press from off turns it on. It has memory for the last mode used including Moonlight that does default back to low after ten minutes or ten hours.

Don't know if Olight is using the old UI or mine is and old stock or maybe defective. 

Anyhow there you go.


----------



## KeepingItLight

You have described the original UI. I hope it is the one you want. 

I have the *Olight S1 Copper Rose Gold*. It uses the new interface. I do not mind the press-and-hold for Moonlight. In most cases, I would not trust myself to leave it in Moonlight mode before turning it off. That's why I use a press-and-hold when I need Moonlight.

As another owner observed, my own memory might only be good for about 10 minutes. Having the S1 erase High mode from mode memory after 10 minutes is not a problem for me. When I need High mode, I usually just double-click from off.

Incidentally, my tests confirm the description given by OlightWorld. Medium mode is never "automatically" erased from mode memory.


----------



## tops2

KeepingItLight said:


> As another owner observed, my own memory might only be good for about 10 minutes. Having the S1 erase High mode from mode memory after 10 minutes is not a problem for me. When I need High mode, I usually just double-click from off.



Awesome! For some reason I kept thinking there's no memory for "revised UI" for all levels. I didn't realize its only for high mode. I just tested also and confirmed no mode memory on high. Now I don't have to worry about leaving the last mode on high! =)


----------



## HarleyXJGuy

KeepingItLight said:


> You have described the original UI. I hope it is the one you want.
> 
> I have the *Olight S1 Copper Rose Gold*. It uses the new interface. I do not mind the press-and-hold for Moonlight. In most cases, I would not trust myself to leave it in Moonlight mode before turning it off. That's why I use a press-and-hold when I need Moonlight.
> 
> As another owner observed, my own memory might only be good for about 10 minutes. Having the S1 erase High mode from mode memory after 10 minutes is not a problem for me. When I need High mode, I usually just double-click from off.
> 
> Incidentally, my tests confirm the description given by OlightWorld. Medium mode is never "automatically" erased from mode memory.



I am not a fan of memory on lights but it is not the end of the world. Use moonlight a lot and just long press from off to get into it. The rest of the modes I can just cycle to. Well unless I want turbo of course.


----------



## wensynch

I'm confused.

So how does the new UI operate?


----------



## tops2

If I turn off in moonlight, then turn back on..it turns on in the last setting before moonlight.

If I turn off on low, that's memorized and will turn back on low the next time.

If I turn off on medium, that's memorized and will turn back on medium the next time.

If I turn off on high, it'll turn back on high if I turn on again within the next 10 minutes. If I turn on the light after 10 minutes, it defaults back to low.

Please let me know if I'm wrong.


----------



## KeepingItLight

*Olight S1 Baton – User Interface*

From OFF

*ACTION
**RESULT
**Click Once*Power up in the mode stored in mode memory.*Click Twice*Power up in High mode. 

When High is activated this way, it is not stored in mode memory.*Press-and-Hold*
(1 second)Power up in Moonlight mode.

This is the only way to activate Moonlight mode.
Moonlight mode is never stored in mode memory.


When ON

*ACTION*
*RESULT*
*Click Once*Power off.

If High mode is stored in mode memory, 10 minutes after power off, mode memory will be set to Low mode.*Click Twice*Activate shut-off timer.

Subsequent double-clicks toggle back-and-forth between 3-minute and 9-minute timer. Main beam flashes once for 3 minutes and twice for 9 minutes. 

After the time interval elapses, the S1 turns off.

The shut-off timer can be used in any mode, including Moonlight and Strobe modes. 

The selected interval, 3-minutes or 9-minutes, is memorized after power off. The next time the timer is activated, the memorized interval is selected.*Click Three Times*Activate Strobe mode.

The strobe flashes at a constant 10Hz.

Press and hold for 1 second to exit Strobe mode, and return to the mode stored in mode memory.*Press-and-Hold*
(1 second)Cycle between Low, Medium, and High modes. 

The selected mode is stored in mode memory. Press-and-hold is the only way to store a mode in mode memory.


Note: The UI on early versions of the aluminum S1 had two differences. 
1. Moonlight mode was stored in mode memory. 
2. After power off, High mode was never erased from mode memory.


----------



## wolfgaze

Is anyone utilizing AW RCR123's in their S1?

I'm currently using Eagletac RCR123's and I think there may be an issue with these batteries. My light will shut down in Medium and High mode after which feels like not that much usage - like less than the manufacturer's stated runtime for RCR123's... Another user in another (Olight) thread mentioned that some batteries may have issues with the protection circuit 'tripping'... I am wondering if this is what I am experiencing. My light is currently shutting off in Medium mode - so I placed the battery in my D4 charger and the voltage reads at *2.84* V... I am clueless about the technical aspects of batteries - but should this voltage be sufficient to continue to run the light in Medium output mode???? 

Thanks in advance for your help....


----------



## jon_slider

wolfgaze said:


> Ithe voltage reads at *2.84 V*


I think that would be considered overdischarged and presents risks of fire upon recharging
research your battery chemistry, maybe other less alarmist members will reassure you

since the S1 has no built in overdischarge protection and no battery level indicator, imo people are living dangerously by using unprotected cells in unprotected lights

but, think of it this way.. its a very good thing that your high and medium stop working when your Protected battery is overdischarged.. dont keep using it.. Charge it! (in a safe location, with adult supervision, in case a fire starts.. no thats not a joke)

research what voltage minimum you should be testing for, when deciding to recharge.. my guess its above 3v.. but Im just a clueless newbie who briefly flirted with the idea of LiIon.. and then retreated to the safety of my Eneloops.. which means no CR123 lights for me

btw, there seems to be a trend among people playing with their S1 on turbo mode.. they keep refiring it until the light stops working, then wonder why high and medium wont work.. its the protection circuit, and thats a good thing.. Charge the battery! Carry a spare. Start using a Volt meter to check battery voltage (you can use your charger.. there is no harm in charging before the battery is dead, its actually better)..


----------



## akhyar

Some protection circuits shut down the battery when it hits 3V, while some might be higher or lower.
I have no problem running my AW protected (Black) in my S1 but I normally charge them once the voltage hits below 3.6-3.7, as I don't want to be stranded in darkness as the 16340 capacity is vey low, say compared 18650 batteries.

If your batteries voltage drop very fast without much usage, maybe you can run charge/discharge test to check the actual capacity of your 16340


----------



## KeepingItLight

wolfgaze said:


> The voltage reads at *2.84* V... should this voltage be sufficient to continue to run the light in Medium output mode????
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help....



Definitely not. 

2.8 volts is pretty much empty for a Li-ion battery. I would not, however, call it an over-discharge. Probably, you just need to recharge, and get back on the road.

How long are your runtimes compared to the following tests? The *Olight S1* runtimes are shown in blue.




thburns said:


> Output measurements
> 
> As measured from the data 30 seconds into the runtime test below with an Olight 650 mAh 16340 battery, I've estimated the peak intensity of the S1 at 3410 cd, with a beam distance of 117 m. This is compared to 3030 cd and 110 m for the S10R. Both of these measurements are slightly higher than the manufacturer-reported specifications for the S1 :twothumbs:
> 
> Runtime graphs


----------



## HarleyXJGuy

Had my S1 for a week or so now and had my first encounter with the dreaded pocket activation.

Still going to carry and use the light. Will repoert back if it happens again.


----------



## wolfgaze

Jon_Slider, Akhyar, KeepingItLight - thank you for the responses, appreciate it...

I am fairly new (last several years) to more modern flashlights and especially to Lithium-Ion batteries (6 months)... I've got a lot more learning to do... I had no idea how to interpret battery voltage in relation to battery capacity... So seeing *2.8* V readout I'm sitting there thinking the battery should still have plenty of juice to power my light, lol... But fortunately I did do enough research to know that I needed to use protected cells...

*KeepingItLight *(thank you for the graphs), I really never use the High mode on my S1.... Can I test my battery runtime in Medium mode by simply putting a fully-charged battery in the light and leaving it on beside me for however many hours with a timer running and noting when it powers off? I assume this is safe to do? 

I really just want to confirm that there are no issues with my Eagletac 750 mAh batteries and that I am experiencing normal (expected) runtimes (I believe my batteries charge to 4.2 V in the D4 charger)... If there was an issue, I would want to explore other battery options for potential optimized performance... I know that RC123's (non-rechargeables) would give me extended runtimes but for the sake of being more environmentally friendly - I would prefer not to go that route.... This is my first 16340 battery compatible light so going into this I had no clue what to expect in terms of battery performance / runtime.... I'm thinking moving forward I will likely stick to AA / AAA / 18650 compatible lights...


----------



## jon_slider

akhyar said:


> Some protection circuits shut down the battery when it hits 3V...
> I normally charge them once the voltage hits below 3.6-3.7


akhyar, very well stated



KeepingItLight said:


> 2.8 volts is pretty much empty for a Li-ion battery.


KeepingItLight very helpful as usual



wolfgaze said:


> I had no idea how to interpret battery voltage in relation to battery capacity... So seeing *2.8* V readout I'm sitting there thinking the battery should still have plenty of juice to power my light, lol... But fortunately I did do enough research to know that I needed to use protected cells...



dont feel bad, the reaction is typical, and you did the right thing by seeking more info
fwiw, I believe your battery IS protected.. so, no harm, no foul, 
carry on


----------



## wolfgaze

jon_slider said:


> dont feel bad, the reaction is typical, and you did the right thing by seeking more info
> fwiw, I believe your battery IS protected.. so, no harm, no foul,
> carry on



Yes, protected... For reference, I am using these:

https://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=5-6-7074


----------



## akhyar

wolfgaze said:


> Yes, protected... For reference, I am using these:
> 
> https://www.eagletac-usa.com/products/product.aspx?pid=5-6-7074



This is a review done by HKJ on this battery.
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/EagleTac 16340 750mAh (Black) UK.html

If you look at his graph on the protection test, you can see that the protection circuit trips at 5.6A, which is between 2.5 to 3V, which HKJ also said is a bit high for his liking.

For me, I also prefer the PCB to trigger between 3 to 3.5V.
Most Li-Ion are rated to go down to 2.5V, but there is always a possibility you shorten their lifespan if you discharge all the way down to the minimum.
That is why most new Li-Ion batteries are kept around the resting voltage of 3.6-3.8V, and rarely you receive new Li-Ion battery at fully charged 4.2V or at the opposite end of 2.5V.

The point I like to made is as the S1 Baton has no low voltage protection or indicator, it is best that you always check the current voltage of the battery inside your S1.
A protected cell is recommended for those not familiar with the working of Li-Ion, or just don't have the time to use DMM to check the voltage


----------



## KeepingItLight

wolfgaze said:


> Can I test my battery runtime in Medium mode by simply putting a fully-charged battery in the light and leaving it on beside me for however many hours with a timer running and noting when it powers off? I assume this is safe to do?



If your battery is protected, this should be okay. Even if it is not protected, if you stop the test when the flashlight begins to dim, you should be fine. 

The danger is that you might over-discharge your battery. By itself, however, that does not usually cause problems. The trouble comes when you attempt to recharge a battery that has been over-discharged. If you check your battery's voltage before recharging, you will know if it is over-discharged.

I recommend checking the battery voltage every hour, or so. You might check, for instance, at 3:00, 4:00, 4:30, and 5:00. _Stop the the test at 5:00 no matter what voltage you see. Stop sooner, if the flashlight dims, or if the voltage falls to, say 3.0 volts._ Many batteries are rated to go lower, so I would not worry about a 2.8-volt reading. 

That said, it is worth mentioning that "voltage sag" will pull down the battery voltage when your flashlight is on. My *Olight S1* exhibits this behavior. When I notice it dimming, especially on High, I recharge. The last time I did this, my *Nitecore D4* showed the battery at something like 3.5 volts as charging began. That was the the so-called "resting voltage." I suspect, however, that "under load" (i.e., when turned on inside my flashlight), my battery was pulled down to 3.2 volts or less. That's why the flashlight was getting dimmer. The forward voltage of its LED requires more voltage than that. 

When you report a resting voltage of 2.8 volts, the odds are that the voltage under load was lower. Of course, if your flashlight won't power on, there is not much of a load.

In a test like this, you do not need to trip the protection on your battery. When the light begins to significantly dim, you can stop the test. Many times, a battery's protection circuit is set to trip at 2.5 volts. That's fine. Usually, it is still safe to recharge at that voltage. As a habit, however, it is not recommended to run your battery this low. That's why I say you should stop the test when you notice your flashlight dimming. 

The protection circuits in a battery are fail-safes. By the time they kick in, the battery has already been pushed beyond normal operating limits. Usually we recharge at 3.0v, 3.3v, or even 3.6v. By the time a battery is at 2.5 volts, something has already gone awry. Note, for instance, that battery expert HKJ stops his discharge tests at 2.8 volts. He does not simply run them until the battery protection trips.

That does not mean that tripping the protection is necessarily dangerous. The protection circuits are designed to shut down a battery before it is damaged.

Note: if you trip the protection circuits in your battery, they will shut it down. No problem. But when that happens, the voltage will read 0 volts if you measure it with a voltage meter. Do not be concerned. When you put the battery in your *Nitecore D4*, it should reset the protection circuit, and then charge as normal. If you have trouble getting the protection circuit to reset, do a search here to learn some easy tricks.

Monitor the voltage carefully during the first few minutes of charging. If the battery voltage is 2.5 volts or less, you may have over-discharged your battery. Depending on circumstances, that might not be unsafe, but it could be. If that happens to you, I recommend that you stop charging immediately, and discard the battery. Take it to your local recycling location.

One of the more dangerous things you can do with Li-ion is to store a battery for an extended period in an over-discharged state. That is the time when conductive "dendrites" most easily form at the electrodes. They provide a conduction path inside the battery for electricity to flow. When you go to recharge such a battery, the dendrites can cause an internal "short-circuit" inside your battery. Rapid over-heating and venting can follow.

The best way to prevent dendrite formation is to recharge your battery as soon as possible after use. Taking a battery down to 2.5 volts, and recharging immediately, is not usually dangerous. Taking one down to 2.0 volts, however, and then storing it in a hot room for 3 months, is.

A good practice is to recharge before your battery is depleted. That is what akhyar recommends above, and that is what many CPF members do. It does not hurt a Li-ion battery to recharge it before it is empty.

After you have learned a bit more about how your S1 flashlight behaves, you will be able to estimate remaining battery power. Suppose, for instance, that you discover that you are getting the same four-and-a-half hours on Medium that the thburns reports in his review. Then you might normally recharge after about 2 or 3 hours of use. 

Get in the habit of noticing the voltage when charging first begins. That will confirm your estimates.

That's all, except for the fine print:

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Usage of Li-ion batteries can be dangerous. I am not a battery expert. I accept no responsibility for personal injury or property damage that occurs as a result of any information contained in this post. I have done my best to relate the facts as I know them. It is possible, however, that some information contained in this post is wrong. YOU ASSUME ALL RISK.


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## tops2

HarleyXJGuy said:


> Had my S1 for a week or so now and had my first encounter with the dreaded pocket activation.
> 
> Still going to carry and use the light. Will repoert back if it happens again.



Rarely happens to me..but happened again this week.

I find it interesting that I accidentally turn the light on every long once in a while...but when I manually turn on the light, the switch requires a bit of effort.

Now my Zebralight on the other hand, has a really easy to intentionally press the button. But due to the design I haven't accidentally turned on the light..


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## HKJ

akhyar said:


> This is a review done by HKJ on this battery.
> http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/EagleTac 16340 750mAh (Black) UK.html
> 
> If you look at his graph on the protection test, you can see that the protection circuit trips at 5.6A, which is between 2.5 to 3V, which HKJ also said is a bit high for his liking.
> 
> For me, I also prefer the PCB to trigger between 3 to 3.5V.
> Most Li-Ion are rated to go down to 2.5V, but there is always a possibility you shorten their lifespan if you discharge all the way down to the minimum.
> That is why most new Li-Ion batteries are kept around the resting voltage of 3.6-3.8V, and rarely you receive new Li-Ion battery at fully charged 4.2V or at the opposite end of 2.5V.
> 
> The point I like to made is as the S1 Baton has no low voltage protection or indicator, it is best that you always check the current voltage of the battery inside your S1.
> A protected cell is recommended for those not familiar with the working of Li-Ion, or just don't have the time to use DMM to check the voltage



The reason the protection trips in that chart is the current, not the voltage.
Usual over discharge protection will trigger somewhere between 2 and 2.5 volt. This is safe enough, but may cost some lifetime for the battery.
I do not remember seeing a over discharge protection trigger above 2.8 volt (The lower limit in my battery tests).


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## akhyar

HKJ said:


> The reason the protection trips in that chart is the current, not the voltage.
> Usual over discharge protection will trigger somewhere between 2 and 2.5 volt. This is safe enough, but may cost some lifetime for the battery.
> I do not remember seeing a over discharge protection trigger above 2.8 volt (The lower limit in my battery tests).



Thanks for the correction HKJ.
Learnt a new thing today


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## vadimax

wolfgaze said:


> Is anyone utilizing AW RCR123's in their S1?
> 
> I'm currently using Eagletac RCR123's and I think there may be an issue with these batteries. My light will shut down in Medium and High mode after which feels like not that much usage - like less than the manufacturer's stated runtime for RCR123's... Another user in another (Olight) thread mentioned that some batteries may have issues with the protection circuit 'tripping'... I am wondering if this is what I am experiencing. My light is currently shutting off in Medium mode - so I placed the battery in my D4 charger and the voltage reads at *2.84* V... I am clueless about the technical aspects of batteries - but should this voltage be sufficient to continue to run the light in Medium output mode????
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help....



Just as a reference point: the FD40 starts to flicker at the lowest mode when a battery is 3.0V. And my S1 is rock solid on Olight's RCR. Didn't have a chance to check it below 3.0V so far.


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## vadimax

HarleyXJGuy said:


> Had my S1 for a week or so now and had my first encounter with the dreaded pocket activation.
> 
> Still going to carry and use the light. Will repoert back if it happens again.



You may easily avoid the risk. Just place a clip 90° to a switch. This way, hanging in your pocket, a light will have no chance to touch anything with a switch with enough force to be activated.


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## oKtosiTe

Just wanted to add that my S10R-II (not an S1, but fairly similar) shuts off just before voltage goes down to 2.8. While I would have preferred a step-down or blink to the button indicator that this light has, I do appreciate the high cut-off point for extending my cells' lives. I've used both the included Olight cell as well as an AW cell.


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