# Nitecore P12 (XM-L2, 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR) Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIME, VIDEO+



## selfbuilt (Mar 4, 2014)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *















Nitecore has sent me their new compact 1x18650/2xCR123A model – the P12 (XM-L2). The P12 features a dual-switch interface, which has become popular in recent years with a lot of manufacturers. Let's see how the P12 model compares to the competition. :wave:

For additional general comments on how several of the current dual-switch lights in this battery class compare, please see my post #2.

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cree XM-L2 T6
Max Lumen: 950
Uses one 18650 rechargeable battery or two CR123A batteries. 
Output/Runtime (1x18650): Hi 950lumens / 1hr 15min – Med 210lumens / 6hr – Lo 50lumens / 28hr – Lower 1lumen / 520hr
Output/Runtime (2xCR123A): Hi 950lumens / 1hhr – Med 210lumens / 5hr 15min – Lo 50lumens / 20hr – Lower 1lumen / 300hr
Beam Intensity: 12,450cd
Beam Distance: 222m
Impact resistant to 1.5 meters
Waterproof in accordance with IPX-8 (two meters submersible)
Second generation ‘Crystal Coating Technology’ combined with ‘Precision Digital Optics Technology’ provide extreme reflector performance
High efficiency circuit board provides up to 520 hours runtime on low
Side switch interface provides one-handed operation and easy access to all functions
Side switch features an indicator light which displays remain ing battery power (patented)
Power indicator secondary function displays battery voltage (accurate to 0.1V)
Intelligent memory function stores preferred brightness setting
High-efficiency regulation circuit provides unwavering output
Toughened ultra-clear mineral glass with anti-reflective coating
Constructed from aero grade aluminium alloy with HAIII military grade hard-anodized finish
Stainless steel titanium-plated clip included
Tail stand capability
Dimensions: Length: 139mm (5.47”), Head Diameter: 25.4mm (1”), Tail Diameter: 25.4mm (1”)
Weight: 88grams (3.10oz)(without battery)
Accessories: Quality holster, clip, tactical ring, lanyard, spare tail cap, spare O-ring
MSRP: ~$60


















Packaging is Nirecore's current standard thin cardboard display box, with detailed specs and information printed right on the box. Inside, included with the light are spare O-rings, spare tailswitch boot cover, removable grip ring, pocket clip, basic wrist lanyard, holster with Velcro closing flap, product inserts, warranty card, and manual.













From left to right: AW Protected 18650 2200mAh; Fenix PD35; Nitecore P12; Eagletac TX25C2; Sunwayman V25C; Olight S20 2014; Eagletac D25LC2; Sunwayman C21C; Foursevens Quark Q123-2.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Nitecore P12*: Weight: 89.7g, Length: 139.4mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Eagletac D25LC2*: Weight: 50.0g, Length: 116.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm
*Eagletac TX25C2*: Weight 93.6g, Length: 120.4mm, Width (bezel): 31.6mm
*Fenix PD35*: Weight: 82.7g, Length: 138.1mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Foursevens MMR-X*: Weight 90.8g, Weight (with 18650): 138.5g, Length: 138.6mm, Width (bezel): 31.5mm
*Foursevens MMX Burst*: Weight 145.8g, Length: 153.3mm, Width (bezel): 38.7mm
*Olight M20S-X:* Weight: 124.1g, Length: 145.4mm, Width: 35.5mm (head)
*Thrunite TN12-2014*: Weight: 80.0g, Length: 140.5mm, Width (bezel): 25.4mm
*Zebralight SC600 II*: Weight 79.3g, Length: 101.8mm, Width (bezel) 29.7mm

The P12 is certainly well in keeping with other recent dual-switch designs.






















The P12 is a compact, yet solid little light. Anodizing is a shiny black finish, hard anodized, with no chips or damage on my sample. Body labels are bright white and clear against the black background. Knurling is of moderate aggressiveness on the body tube and tailcap. But when combined all the other grip elements (e.g., side switch cover, fins in the head, pocket clip, etc.), I would describe overall grip as very good. 

The light has decent anti-roll indentations on the body, but the clip is even more helpful in that regard. Clip is supposedly titanium-plated stainless steel, and feels reasonably sturdy. There is also a bundled grip ring in the package, for cigar-grip style carry (also very effective for anti-roll).

Tailcap screw threads are standard triangular cut and anodized for lock-out at either end of the body tube. :thumbsup: 

The P12 uses a forward clicky switch, but with very good tailstanding ability due to the raised side edges (suitable for lanyard attachement). Switch access by finger or thumb is good.

On/off is controlled by the physical tailcap clicky switch, but all mode switching is done by the electronic side switch in the head. The mode-changing switch in the head has pretty good feel for an electronic switch, with typical traverse. It is relatively easy to locate by feel (although could be grippier, with more visual distinctiveness). 

Note that like many other Nitecore models, there is a blue LED under the mode-changing side-switch that will glow blue when the batteries are running low. It also serves as a voltage read-out function. Please see my User Interface section for a discussion. 

There is a physical reverse polarity feature in the head. However, this has been updated from earlier Nitecore models and now allows "wide button top" cells to work in the light. True flat-tops (where the positive contact is below the wrapper) won't work, but all my cells with a slightly raised contact worked fine. 

The body tube is wide enough to accommodate all size 18650 cells, and there seems to be plenty of room of longer cells as well.










The P12 comes with a flat black aluminum bezel. The overall head is typical for this class - not very large. Reflector is smooth, and fairly deep given this size head. Coupled with the XM-L2 cool white emitter (which was well centered on my sample), I would expect a fairly typical beam pattern, but with slightly greater throw than many in this class. Scroll down for beamshots.

Nitecore also sent me one of their own-brand 18650 cells to test:






























As you can see, the rated capacity for this protected 18650 is 2300mAh. I will include additional runtimes comparing it to my standard AW protected 2200mAh cells.

*User Interface*

The P12 uses a dual-switch interface, similar to the Fenix PD35 or Thrunite TN12-2014.

Turn the light on/off by the forward tailcap switch. Lightly press and hold for momentary, click (press and release) for constant on. Click again to turn off.

To change modes, click the electronic switch in the head, while the light on. Mode sequence is Lower > Lo > Med > Hi, in repeating sequence. The light has mode memory, and returns the last level set after turning the tail switch off/on.

Press and hold the electronic switch to access a tactical Strobe mode. Press and hold again to select the next blinking mode. Mode sequence is: Strobe > Locator Beacon > SOS, in a repeating loop. A single click exits you from the blinking modes and puts you back into constant output.

Note that there is mode memory for the Strobe mode (but not the other two blinking modes). This is convenient if you are someone who likes immediate access to Strobe from Off.

The P12 also has a blue LED under the side mode-changing switch to serve as a low voltage indicator when the flashlight is On. Once the cells are below 50% power (according to Nitecore), this indicator will flash blue every 2 seconds. It will flash faster as the power capacity drops down further.

With the light turned Off, you can get a battery voltage readout by pressing and holding the side switch while simultaneously activating the tailcap switch. The blue LED will then read out the voltage in a series of flashes (e.g., Four flashes, followed by a short pause, with two more flashes would indicate a full charge of 4.2V). Note that if you click the tailswitch on (as opposed to press-hold), the light will actually turn itself on after the voltage read-out finishes.

*Video*: 

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

The P12 is fully current-controlled. There is no PWM, on any level. 

I did detect some circuit noise on my oscilloscope at the Lo and Med levels, but this was completely invisible in actual use.

Med Noise (two separate timescales):










Again, consistent with my standard review policy, I report on any oscilloscope signals that I can detect in the output of a light. But I can assure you that the above patterns produce no visible effect – even when shining on a fan. The P12 is fully "flicker-free" at all levels. 

Strobe





The strobe was a very fast "tactical" strobe, of 16.3Hz frequency. Strobe duty cycle is a little unusual, as it is only "on" a portion of the total time of each strobe cycle (i.e., most strobes are an even 50:50 on/off). But it doesn't change how disorienting it is in general terms. :green:

Beacon





Beacon was a quick high-output flash, once every 2.2 secs or so.

SOS





SOS was a fairly typical SOS mode.

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an AW protected 18650 battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.





























































Beam pattern is about what you would expect for a light this size. Spillbeam width is slightly narrower than some recent competitors, and the P12 has excellent throw for the class (both consistent with its somewhat deeper reflector). Scroll down for detailed output and throw measures.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).
















The P12 is a heavily-driven light for this class. Max output is similar across all supported battery types. It also has a consistent <1 lumen "Lower" mode, which is appreciated. 

Throw is quite reasonable for the class, given the size of the head and reflector.

Let's see how all the levels compare to the official specs, on 1x18650 in my lightbox:






There is a generally good concordance between my estimated lumens and Nitecore's published specs.  Note that the Hi mode of the P12 steps down to an intermediate Hi level (i.e., something between the defined Med and Hi modes). See my Runtimes below for more info. And as always, you have to consider my estimated lumens as a source of _relative_ measures between lights (i.e., not to be taken as absolute values). 

I am glad to see the <1 lumen "Lower" mode on the P12, as I personally like having low-level options in a general purpose light. This is very helpful when you have dark adapted eyes. The mode spacing is pretty good, although most lights of this this class would typically have an additional Hi level between the current Med and Hi outputs.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

For all these comparisons, I will use the standard Nitecore terminology for the modes (i.e., "Hi" is in fact max output).

To start, here is a comparison of four of my highest output recent lights in this class; the Zebralight SC600-II, Fenix PD35, Nitecore P12, and Thrunite TN12-2014:










Given the incredibly high drive level of these lights on Max, it is not surprising that all of them either show a direct-drive-like pattern (i.e., the TN12-2014), or have a defined step-down (either timed or thermal-managed). It just isn't possible for these small lights to maintain that sort of output (and heat) on a single 18650 in a fully regulated fashion for long. The Fenix PD35 and Nitecore P12 have a very similar pattern of gradual step-downs from Max, with at least the first step timed. 

The P12 shows very good efficiency and regulation at all levels, although it is nudged out of the top efficiency spot for this class by the PD35 and SC600-II. As mentioned above, I would like to see the first step down from Max be used as an additional defined Med-Hi mode on the P12 (i.e., a five-level light, instead of a four-level one).

Let's see how it does on 1x18650 against a wider range of lights (omitting the comparisons already shown above). For this comparison, I have added a Max mode runtime with the supplied Nitecore 2300mAh battery on the P12.






The Nitecore 2300mAh battery gives a little bit of extra max runtime compared to my AW 2200mAh – but doesn't affect the timing of the first two step-downs (hard to see above, because the pink and light orange lines overlap until the just before end). This is as I would expect – higher capacity cells typically only affect runtime at the far right of the time scale.






Overall efficiency of P12 remains very good for this class (e.g., similar to my Eagletac TX25C2 in the Med mode run)

Here are a couple of comparisons on 2x battery sources:











Thanks to the set of step-downs on Hi, you can safely run 2xCR123A or 2xRCR cells in this light.

*Potential Issues*

There are a series of step-downs from "Hi" (aka max) on the P12, on all batteries (i.e., rapid step-down initially from Hi, and then a subsequent step down to Med). 

The P12 lacks a typical "Hi" mode (i.e., the P12 "Hi" mode is basically Turbo, with no lower "Hi" mode, as on most lights). I would think adding the step-down Hi level into the regular sequence would be good idea (i.e. as a fifth selectable mode).

*Preliminary Observations*

The P12 is a nice addition to the Nitecore line-up. Although superficially similar to a number of other dual-switch 1x18650, 2xCR123A/RCR lights, there are some clear indications of Nitecore's "DNA" incorporated here. 

Build quality is very good, with good hand feel and overall design. I like the easy access to the tailswitch, while maintaining tailstanding – one of the best I've seen in this class. The user interface is very intuitive, with the dual physical tailcap switch and side mode-changing electronic switch. Switch feel is good on both. And the low-voltage and battery read-out features of side switch (using Nitecore's trademark blue LED) are nice additions to this class. 

In terms of output modes, the P12 has a good range of constant modes - although one extra intermediate Med-Hi mode would have been nice (i.e., something like the Hi step-down level). I particularly like the <1 lumen "lower" level here - helpful if you have dark-adapted eyes. Nitecore has provided additional blinking modes, compared to most of the competition in this class. I personally like the Beacon mode, but would still like to see a slow signaling strobe. And for those of you who demand such things, there is mode memory for the Tactical Strobe mode here (i.e., you can set the P12 to come on that way).

Output/runtime efficiency was very good, demonstrating a good constant-current circuit. The step-down pattern on Turbo was remarkably similar to the Fenix PD35. The light is fully regulated at all levels.

Beam pattern is good as well, with a nice balance between throw and spill. Given the fairly standard size head, there are lots of beam shaping accessories out there from a range of makers that will fit on the light. 

At the end of the day, there is a lot to here to commend the P12 for the price.  More than just a "me-too" light, the P12 has some definite additions to this class (i.e., extra blinky modes, mode memory for tactical strobe, low-voltage indicator and battery read out). Definitely a strong contender in the class, and one well worth considering. :wave:

_P.S.: I know a lot people are wondering how the Fenix PD35, Nitecore P12 and Thrunite TN12-2014 directly compare to each other. In addition to all the objectives measures included in this review, I've added some general comparison comments in post #2._

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P12 provided by Nitecore for review.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 4, 2014)

I have just posted detailed individual reviews of Fenix PD35, Nitecore P12 and Thrunite TN12-2014. Since the lights are all very similar, the decision most of you have will be which _one_ to get.

To help with that, here are direct comparisons of key features of the lights, to allow you to better choose the one that is right for you. Please see the table/figures in the review for more info.

*Overall Build Quality and "Feel": * The PD35 has most solid build in my estimation, with the most "grippy" overall hand feel and the best built-in anti-roll feature. The P12 is a close second on most of these measures, whereas the TN12-2014 has the smoothest body (contributing to a lower hand "feel" on this model, compared to the others). The pocket clip works well on all three models (note that the PD35 has the stiffest clip retention).

*Switch "Feel" and Access:* The P12 has significantly easier access to the tailswitch, relative to the PD35 and TN12-2014 (which are roughly equivalent to each other). This is odd, as it is only the P12 and TN12-2014 that allow tailstanding out of the box. That said, the PD35 has the best electronic side switch feel, with the most definite "click" - followed closely by the P12. The TN12-2014 has the "softest" side switch feel, but is the easiest to find by touch alone, as it is more raised than the other two. Note that only the P12 has a low-voltage and battery read-out LED located under the side switch.

*Constant Output Modes:* The TN12-2014 has the widest range of outputs, from ~0.2 lumens to >1000 lumens, with five well-spaced levels. The PD35 has five good levels as well, but lacks a true moonlight mode (i.e., from ~11 to ~1000 lumens range). The P12 has a good range from ~0.8 lumens to ~900 lumens, but only four levels (i.e., could use an extra Med-Hi mode).

*Blinking modes:* Only the P12 has additional modes beyond tactical strobe (i.e., SOS and Beacon). All three lights have the additional mode(s) "hidden" behind a press-hold of the side switch, but only the P12 allows you to memorize the tactical strobe mode (i.e., can return to strobe from Off).

*Beam Pattern:* The TN12-2014 and PD35 have similar wide spill beams, with the P12 slightly narrower. The P12 and TN12-2014 have roughly equivalent peak center-beam throw, with the PD35 having a bit less. The PD35 also has the widest hotspot, with the smoothest transition (i.e., least defined hotspot edge, and could thus be consider the "floodiest" of the three). Beam quality is pretty good on all of them, although the PD35 probably the most consistently "clean" beam, due to its slightly shallower reflector (i.e., slightly less likely to have beam rings and artifacts).

*Circuit Efficiency and Regulation:* All three lights are current-controlled, and highly efficient. The PD35 and P12 have more consistently flat regulation at all levels on all batteries – but have defined step-downs from their max levels. The PD35 is probably the most efficient pick, but performance is very close among all three. Note that I do not recommend you run the TN12-2014 on its max level on 2xCR123A/RCR for sustained periods, as there is no step down on this model. Please see the runtime graphs in this review for more info.

*Reverse-Polarity Detection:* The PD35 and TN12-2014 have electronic reverse-polarity protection, and P12 has a physical one. However, the P12 positive terminal has been re-designed to allow all type of button-top cells to be used (i.e., wide button as well as small – it is just true flat-tops that won't work in the P12). 

*Package and Accessories:* Bundled extras are pretty similar across the three models (and fairly basic for the holsters and wrist lanyards). Note the P12 comes with an additional grip ring. The lights all share a common sized head, so standard beam shaping accessories from any one maker should fit pretty well on the others.

*Value:* The TN12-2014 has the lowest manufacturer suggested retail price (MSRP), the PD35 has the highest, with the P12 is right in the middle. This relative order matches my general "hand feel" experience, but you will have to make your own assessment as to perceived value depending on all the characteristics above. 

And there you have it - there is no clear knock-down winner is any category. All three lights are similar overall, with each one specialized in some areas over the others. I recommend you pick based on which constellation of characteristics above matters the most to you. :wave:

P.S.: As an aside, I did a blind "taste preference" of the three models with Mrs Selfbuilt. This was based solely on her physical and visual assessment of the lights and their beams, as we didn't get into circuit testing or price. She was initially drawn to the PD35 for its grippier hand feel, higher perceived build quality, and smoothest beam pattern. However, lack of a true low mode and inability to tailstand (despite reduced tailswitch access) led her to ultimately choose the P12 as the best overall candidate. She was similarly able to accurately rank the lights by estimated price, but felt that the difference between the three models was not as great as the prices would suggest (based solely on a bulid assessment). She felt that a regular person would be amazed by what any of these lights can do, and would be happy with any of them. :wave:


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## Ryp (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks for the review!


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 4, 2014)

Nothing of substance to add for this excellent review. For me, the number of light levels is fine; easier to go through the choices you could say (one less click) and the tailstanding capability is sufficient but less than half of the circumference is used.

For my sample, the tint is very pleasing, looking cool only when compared with a warm light. Some others would probably disagree.

The ability to quickly check state-of-charge is a real advantage in terms of taking good care of batteries and knowing how much running time one has, before going out into the night.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 4, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> The ability to quickly check state-of-charge is a real advantage in terms of taking good care of batteries and knowing how much running time one has, before going out into the night.


Yes, this is a real practical advantage to the P12. I have often wished other lights would provide an easy way to check voltage (rather than having to pull the cell out, and head upstairs to fetch a DMM).


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## Labrador72 (Mar 4, 2014)

Thanks for all 3 reviews!


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## selfbuilt (Mar 4, 2014)

Labrador72 said:


> Thanks for all 3 reviews!


My pleasure - it certainly was a high volume day! :laughing:


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 4, 2014)

Wonderful review as usual. Not only do flat-top 18650s not work in my Nitecore P12, but none of the four EagleTac protected 3400 mAh 18650s I tried are compatible. The small button-top on the EagleTac 18650s is apparently too short for the P12. Button-top protected and unprotected 18650s by Panasonic, Sanyo, and LG work fine.


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## Waymed (Mar 5, 2014)

AbnInfantry said:


> Wonderful review as usual. Not only do flat-top 18650s not work in my Nitecore P12, but none of the four EagleTac protected 3400 mAh 18650s I tried are compatible. The small button-top on the EagleTac 18650s is apparently too short for the P12. Button-top protected and unprotected 18650s by Panasonic, Sanyo, and LG work fine.



I have had the same results of not running using my EagleTac 3400mAh 18650s. However, my EagleTac 3100mAh batteries worked fine on my P12.
The Orbtronic 3400s worked fine also.

I totally agree on the assesments above.
I seem to gravitate to the P12 with low level, the battery testing function and the memory strobe availability. If I need more flood, I grab the Fenix.


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## Moonshadow (Mar 5, 2014)

Interesting - I've tried two EagleTac 3400s in my P12 and they both work fine. The EagleTac cells have just a small button but clearly it protrudes enough to make contact on the samples that I have. I wonder if there's maybe a little variability between units (either the cells or the light) ?


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 5, 2014)

The one EagTac 3400 I have works fine as well.


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 5, 2014)

I just tried my EagleTac 3400s in a different Nitecore P12 and none of them work. Every other type of button-top 18650 I've tried works fine in both P12s. The short, tiny button on the EagleTac 3400s simply doesn't protrude far enough to make contact. Two of my EagleTac 3400s were brand new and had never even been inserted into a flashlight before. Since different people report different results, I can only assume there's some manufacturing tolerance variation between P12s and/or EagleTac 3400s.

Comparing selfbuilt's reviews of the Nitecore SRT7, P12, and Thrunite TN12, I was surprised to see the P12 was brighter (from 20 to 120 lumens depending on battery type) than the SRT7. Despite being less expensive, the TN12 is from 110 to 170 lumens brighter than the P12. Since Nitecore uses an XML2 T6 in the P12 instead of the XML2 U2 Thrunite uses in their TN12, I assume this is one of the reasons why the TN12 puts out more lumens.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 5, 2014)

AbnInfantry said:


> Since different people report different results, I can only assume there's some manufacturing tolerance variation between P12s and/or EagleTac 3400s.


Indeed. Like KITROBASKIN and Moonshadow, both of my Eagltac 3400mAh cells (with the small button) worked fine in my P12. :thinking:

For AbnInfantry and Waymed, does your P12 look the same as mine does in this review? Both my P12 and Eagletac 3400mA samples came directly from the manufacturer, shortly after they were released.


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 5, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> For AbnInfantry and Waymed, does your P12 look the same as mine does in this review?



My two P12s appear to be identical to the one in your review. I received both P12s in the mail last Friday from a Nitecore distributor (Moteng). I purchased my EagleTac 3400s from GoingGear. I've never seen a button-top 18650 with a button as short and small as those on EagleTac 3400s. I hadn't intended to use these batteries in a P12 so this isn't a problem for me. I merely wanted to let folks know that 18650s with very short buttons don't necessarily work in all P12s.

I just checked and my EagleTac 3400s work fine in a Nitecore SRT7, SRT6, and P16.


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## Moonshadow (Mar 5, 2014)

Out of interest, here is a comparison of my EagleTac and Nitecore 18650s:






Close up of button end:






There seems to be very little to choose between the cells. Both buttons are short, but they seem to poke out by about the same amount. The main difference I can see is that the EagleTac seems to have a wider metal surround to the button, so perhaps this is enough to catch the reverse-polarity ring in some cases.

Since those of us who have more than one EagleTac to test seem to be finding that either they all work or none of them work, I wonder if it's a matter of the exact depth of the centre contact post in the light head. I suspect it's going to be a matter of fractions of a millimetre whether they work in a particular light or not.


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## AbnInfantry (Mar 5, 2014)

Moonshadow, the button-top on your EagleTac 3400 protrudes noticeably more than on any of my four EagleTac 3400s. Viewed from the side, the tip of the button is barely visible on each of mine. I can only assume our batteries are from different production runs. I'm surprised my EagleTac 3400s work OK in the Nitecore SRT7, SRT6, and P16.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 5, 2014)

Moonshadow said:


> Since those of us who have more than one EagleTac to test seem to be finding that either they all work or none of them work, I wonder if it's a matter of the exact depth of the centre contact post in the light head. I suspect it's going to be a matter of fractions of a millimetre whether they work in a particular light or not.


I tend to agree, seeing as how it seems to be all or none for the members who weighed in so far (myself included). FYI, the buttons on my Eagletac 3400mAhs do not seem to project as much as yours - and yet still work fine in my P12.


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## jabara572 (Mar 5, 2014)

AbnInfantry said:


> My two P12s appear to be identical to the one in your review. I received both P12s in the mail last Friday from a Nitecore distributor (Moteng). I purchased my EagleTac 3400s from GoingGear. I've never seen a button-top 18650 with a button as short and small as those on EagleTac 3400s. I hadn't intended to use these batteries in a P12 so this isn't a problem for me. I merely wanted to let folks know that 18650s with very short buttons don't necessarily work in all P12s.
> 
> I just checked and my EagleTac 3400s work fine in a Nitecore SRT7, SRT6, and P16.




THE REVERSE POLARITY PROTECTION/FLAT TOP ISSUE CAN BE FIXED EASILY!!! :twothumbs

The physical polarity protection is just a thin black plastic disk. You can see the plastic "fingers" that snap around the center post on the top head. I took a sharp knife (just to get a "bite" on it) and was able to "pop" the disk off the center post in about 10 seconds. After that flat tops/any 18650 will work just fine! Been running some salvaged sanyo 2600 flat tops for weeks no problems....

So if you like this light except you are worried about the battery issue, it can be easily fixed with just a few seconds (and is totally reversible, just snap the black plastic piece back on). Obviously be careful and gentle while doing it... and dont blame me if you mess up your P12.... but trust me it really is a piece of cake


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## selfbuilt (Mar 5, 2014)

jabara572 said:


> You can see the plastic "fingers" that snap around the center post on the top head. I took a sharp knife (just to get a "bite" on it) and was able to "pop" the disk off the center post in about 10 seconds.


Thanks for the contribution. It looks like it would come off easily. But as you say, one would need to be careful if one wanted to be able to put it back on. But it does raise the question if it were also "adjustable" in some way.

And :welcome:


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## Waymed (Mar 5, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> For AbnInfantry and Waymed, does your P12 look the same as mine does in this review? Both my P12 and Eagletac 3400mA samples came directly from the manufacturer, shortly after they were released.



My P12 looks same as yours.

I had one (Eagletac 3400) in my pd35 and another in Zebra sc600 MkII when the pd12 arrived at my home. Both of the lights were working fine and both batteries were recently charged.
Neither one work in the Nitecore. I then brought out a pair of Eagletac 3100's...they both worked in the P12.
As I had indicated, my Orbtronic 3400s work fine in the P12 also.

As I like the P12 and my other batteries work in the light......no issue for me.

side note....It seems to me that the geometry of the EagleTac battery button (angled sides) could be more easier distorted under load than a button with a straight vertical side. Mine have seemed to be some what depressed after used in the Fenix and Zebralight.


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## jabara572 (Mar 6, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Thanks for the contribution. It looks like it would come off easily. But as you say, one would need to be careful if one wanted to be able to put it back on. But it does raise the question if it were also "adjustable" in some way.
> 
> And :welcome:



Thanks selfbuilt! It does seem like there might be some variability in how high the disk sits depending on the flexible fingers. No doubt some of the black disks are sitting a little bit taller and preventing some batteries from working. IF anyone wants, I can take a picture of the head with the reverse protection removed


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 6, 2014)

ZebraLight 3400 flat top did not work, obviously. Since I would like to be able to use all 18650 batteries in all 18650 flashlights I pried it out. If you lever it on the side of the barrel, protect the anodizing. That plastic compression ring is more fragile (brittle) than the 'cigar ring' as it did indeed crack an inner piece off. I used super glue after sanding down the bottom portion of the plastic (the part near the electronics) and sanded the elevated ring facing the battery. Checked for fit three times. Finally got it right. I felt like keeping the electronics somewhat separated from the battery inside. Most of my flashlights do not have reverse polarity protection so... That one no longer has it either.

UPDATE: March 8, 2014. Ended up completely removing plastic reverse polarity tab. After modifying, it seemed to interfere with operation, preventing activation.


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## CZ9mm (Mar 7, 2014)

@selfbuilt

In the end I will probably buy both the Nitecore P12 and the Fenix PD35, but I really wish that the PD35 included tailstanding, voltage readout, and beacon mode. Then it would be perfect!

Regarding the voltage readout, could you or someone else compare the readout to a DMM to determine the accuracy of the readout? I'm not suggesting it would completely replace a DMM for Li-ion use, but does the light give a reliable reading? If it does, to me that seems a huge advantage compared to the PD35.

In regards to this light, would you recommend Nitecore's protected cells or AW's?

And by "built quality", you suggest that the PD35 has a slight edge here. However, according to Fenix and Nitecore's specs, the PD35 is rated to 1m drops and the P12 is rated to 1.5m drops. Mainly I'm interested which would hold up better to abuse (ie, being dropped on concrete).

And, not to put you on the spot, but if you could only own one of these lights for EDC and it be your only EDC, P12 or PD35?


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## Moonshadow (Mar 7, 2014)

Just tried a couple of cells here:


EagleTac 3400:
P12: 4 flashes + 1 flash. DVM: 4.08 V

AW IMR 
P12: 4 flashes. DVM: 4.01 V

So on that basis, it certainly agrees with the DVM to within 0.1 V. 

I tend to keep my cells pretty well topped off, but will run couple of them down a bit and see how they fare at the 3.7 - 3.6V sort of level. 

Agree, this is a brilliant feature - hadn't tried it before but seems well worth having, and certainly sets the P12 apart.


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## charlieplanb (Mar 7, 2014)

After reading selfbuilt reviews on the pd35 and the p12 ,I was aiming for the PD35 but I j got the p12...

I LOVE IT.it came with the eagletac 3400 but thats still charging. Right now I'm useing the cr123a's 
Thank you


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 7, 2014)

For my own self edification, probably 10 times I have compared a middling quality digital multi-meter with the button flashing P12. I would go so far as to say that it is within .05V accurate, that is, + or minus .05V. After all, the P12 only measures to the nearest tenth volt.

Only a few times have I compared the digital readout on my Nitecore TM26 with a DMM but it was as close as my needs dictate. The TM26 reads out to the nearest hundredth volt.

This is in stark contrast with the 1 to 4 LED flashes to indicate state of charge that another flashlight I had exhibited. I did not trust it.

It should be remembered that if you check voltage right after significant light use, it will read lower than after the battery rests. I only tested rested batteries. (And I don't know by how much it will be affected as my experience is with golf cart sized batteries in my home photo-voltaic system. These take a much longer time equalizing throughout the cells)


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## selfbuilt (Mar 7, 2014)

From my testing, the voltage read out is consistent with a basic DMM.

As for build quality, it is just the apparent sturdiness that seems higher (marginally) on the PD35. In practical terms, I have no data as to which would survive drops or abuse better. But I would not rely on manufacturer ratings for impact and waterproofness - the ANSI FL1 tests are not very rigorous.


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## whatswrongwithmee (Mar 8, 2014)

Thanks for the review! Now I REALLY have to get one.


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## KITROBASKIN (Mar 11, 2014)

Turns out, a SolarForce L2P tailcap will function on the P12. A member (Croquette) reported a SolarForce tailcap working on a different Nitecore and that it may work with the P12. Interestingly, it does.


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## touge (Mar 13, 2014)

Great review. I was leaning toward the pd35, but I really like that battery level checker.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 13, 2014)

touge said:


> Great review. I was leaning toward the pd35, but I really like that battery level checker.


Yes, it is. Just realized that I didn't show a pic of the button lit up:







It's not quite as bright at the camera settings might suggest above - it's similar to the other Nitecore models.


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## SergeyB (Mar 19, 2014)

Thanks for the interesting review and the larger done work. In theme completion, it would be interesting if somebody measured actual current consumption of the P12 in the main modes as it was done with the Fenix PD35.


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## soul347 (Mar 20, 2014)

Between the P12, PD35 and TN12-2014, which light has the brightest spill area?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 20, 2014)

SergeyB said:


> In theme completion, it would be interesting if somebody measured actual current consumption of the P12 in the main modes as it was done with the Fenix PD35.


:welcome:

If you mean by tailcap current draw, I wouldn't recommend you put too much faith in that. In my experience, the internal resistance of the DMM (and/or the leads) can affect the result, especially if you don't have a high-end setup. At a minimum, you would really need to do concurrent output measures in a lightbox, to ensure the output was not affected (I have seen that happen on several lights). In any case, tailcap current at activation is at best an indirect indicator of performance - the actual output measures over time are what really matter. 

EDIT: If you were referring to using a power supply to directly interrogate the circuit, then I agree that can provide some useful information on circuit function. But when it comes to comparing how flashlights perform on different batteries, the actual output/runtime tests are still what ultimately matter.



soul347 said:


> Between the P12, PD35 and TN12-2014, which light has the brightest spill area?


As shown in the beamshots, there really isn't much of a difference in the beam profiles of these lights - certainly not in the spill. I think you would find all three effectively the same. There is certainly nothing consistently different that you would expect - especially when you consider all the natural variation in tint, relative location with the output bin, circuit and reflector variances, etc.


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## gurdygurds (Mar 21, 2014)

Thanks for the review selfbuilt. Is the grip ring on this light threaded, or does it spin like on the xt11? Thanks again!


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## selfbuilt (Mar 21, 2014)

gurdygurds said:


> Thanks for the review selfbuilt. Is the grip ring on this light threaded, or does it spin like on the xt11? Thanks again!


No, it is not threaded. But I don't find it spins freely, like on some lights.
_
EDIT: sorry, wrote that on a phone, so was a little too brief. Yes, the P12 grip ring will spin freely when the tailcap is not screwed down all the way. However, I don't find the design as bad as some lights, where it still spins too easily even when the tailcap is in place. You will need to temporarily remove the o-ring to get the grip ring on, which must be done carefully of course _


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## Rick_R (Mar 21, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> No, it is not threaded. But I don't find it spins freely, like on some lights.



FYI - The 'Grip-Ring' does end up rotating/spining with use. I have had this light since the begining of Dec.,2013, and have used it almost every day since recieving it. I solved this issue by adding a 1.0mm dia. o-ring above it, then screwing on the tail-cap/switch (works very well). 
It's plastic break-in some. Unless Nitecore reduces the I.D. of the grip-ring some, it will start freely spining. Wich will cause the user to remove the o-ring from the body, install the grip-ring, re-install the o-ring and tail-cap (how many 0-rings will become damaged during this on/off process??).
Hope this helps, it's a great light! (Like I said above I use it alosy every day, the last almost 4 month's).


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## gurdygurds (Mar 22, 2014)

Thanks for the replies. Strange design in my eyes. Why not just thread the thing and call it a day. All these nice lights that require the user to rig something up to make it work properly.


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## oKtosiTe (Mar 22, 2014)

gurdygurds said:


> Thanks for the replies. Strange design in my eyes. Why not just thread the thing and call it a day. All these nice lights that require the user to rig something up to make it work properly.


That way you could screw the tailcap down against the grip ring while leaving a gap between the body and the grip ring. A similar issue occurs on my Quark X AA2 with the pocket clip ring, which is why I usually only remove the head to change batteries to avoid the hassle. A very minor issue, but it could lead to degradation of o-rings and threads if unnoticed.


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## soul347 (Mar 25, 2014)

Rick_R said:


> FYI - The 'Grip-Ring' does end up rotating/spining with use. I have had this light since the begining of Dec.,2013, and have used it almost every day since recieving it. I solved this issue by adding a 1.0mm dia. o-ring above it, then screwing on the tail-cap/switch (works very well).



It seems I am not able to turn on the light when I put the o-ring in place so that the grip ring will be more secure. I guess this is because I cannot twist the tail cap all the way, and the threads are anodized for lockout. How were you able to turn on the light after putting the o-ring on?


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## Rick_R (Mar 27, 2014)

The O-ring that I used was a soft one (cheap kit from "Harbor Frieght"). Try taking a knife to the grip-Ring inner edge where the o-ring sits, at about a 45deg. angle (just a small "trim" should help). Or try a smaller dia. o-ring.
I think with 'tolerances in mnfg.' in the body, cap and ring. A 1mm o-ring could be tight on one, and so on another.
Hope this helps.


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## soul347 (Mar 27, 2014)

Rick_R said:


> The O-ring that I used was a soft one (cheap kit from "Harbor Frieght"). Try taking a knife to the grip-Ring inner edge where the o-ring sits, at about a 45deg. angle (just a small "trim" should help). Or try a smaller dia. o-ring.
> I think with 'tolerances in mnfg.' in the body, cap and ring. A 1mm o-ring could be tight on one, and so on another.
> Hope this helps.



Alright thanks i'll look into it. I e-mailed nitecore about this and here was their response:

_"Thank you for your supports in NITECORE._

_The grip ring may be loose, it is designed to be like that as it will not have any scratches on the flashlight body. And even it is loose, but it will not effect the funtion of the ring. Right?_

_Any questions, please feel free to ask."

_I'm not sure if I buy their explanation, but I do realize that the loose o ring is tolerable and still usable.


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## Rick_R (Mar 29, 2014)

soul347 said:


> Alright thanks i'll look into it. I e-mailed nitecore about this and here was their response:
> 
> _"Thank you for your supports in NITECORE._
> 
> ...



I can see into thier explanation, there other mnfg.'s using this same grip-ring.
A friend, just picked one up, and the grip-ring was loose from the git-go. He could not use a 1.0mm o-ring (had the same issue as you). Used a .5mm o-ring under the grip-ring. Installed in this order; .5mm o-ring, grip-ring sealing oring and tail-cap. Works great.
FYI- There is a slight bevel allready on the flat side of the grip-ring, for a small o-ring to fit into.


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## soul347 (Mar 29, 2014)

So I've been using the built-in voltage reader on the P12. How do I know what is low and when I should generally charge my batteries again? I'm using Nitecore 3400 mAh and 2600 mAh 18650 batteries.


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## Rick_R (Mar 30, 2014)

soul347 said:


> So I've been using the built-in voltage reader on the P12. How do I know what is low and when I should generally charge my batteries again? I'm using Nitecore 3400 mAh and 2600 mAh 18650 batteries.



Easy. The blue light in the 'Mode' button will flash, while the light is activated/on. If the battery is very low, it will flash while off.
Note. With li-ion batterys it is best not to run them down to there min. voltage. They like to be topped-off. A li-ion cell fully discharged then charged is a full cycle. Partial discharged then charged is not a full cycle. So in short, the cells last for a longer period of time (i.e. years). But then again, if you use a quality cell, that is capable of 500-600 full cycles, and you fully discharged/charged every day, do the math. 
mAh is just runtime.


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## oKtosiTe (Mar 30, 2014)

soul347 said:


> So I've been using the built-in voltage reader on the P12. How do I know what is low and when I should generally charge my batteries again? I'm using Nitecore 3400 mAh and 2600 mAh 18650 batteries.


Generally, 2.8V is considered the very minimum, but 3.2V is a safer cutoff, and recharging at 3.4V is even better.
Below 3.5V the voltage will start to drop quickly, so the runtime between 3.5V and 3.0V is not nearly as long as that between 4.0V and 3.5V.

As Rick_R states above, the mAh has no influence on the voltage at which you should start considering recharging, just on how long it takes to get to that voltage.

Hope that helps.


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## soul347 (Mar 30, 2014)

Rick_R said:


> Easy. The blue light in the 'Mode' button will flash, while the light is activated/on. If the battery is very low, it will flash while off.
> Note. With li-ion batterys it is best not to run them down to there min. voltage. They like to be topped-off. A li-ion cell fully discharged then charged is a full cycle. Partial discharged then charged is not a full cycle. So in short, the cells last for a longer period of time (i.e. years). But then again, if you use a quality cell, that is capable of 500-600 full cycles, and you fully discharged/charged every day, do the math.
> mAh is just runtime.



Thanks for the tip. I didn't know that the mode button will even flash while the light is off? There was a point where it was blinking quite rapidly indicating low remaining power, but that was only when the light was still on. I'll keep on observing


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## soul347 (Mar 30, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


> Generally, 2.8V is considered the very minimum, but 3.2V is a safer cutoff, and recharging at 3.4V is even better.
> Below 3.5V the voltage will start to drop quickly, so the runtime between 3.5V and 3.0V is not nearly as long as that between 4.0V and 3.5V.
> 
> As Rick_R states above, the mAh has no influence on the voltage at which you should start considering recharging, just on how long it takes to get to that voltage.
> ...



Thanks for giving precise voltage readings. My light hit 3.5v according to the built in reader and it started flashing rapidly. Is 3.5v considered around 50% battery capacity or less? I think an easier system would be if the light flashed 1-10 times indicating 10-100%.


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## oKtosiTe (Mar 30, 2014)

soul347 said:


> Thanks for giving precise voltage readings. My light hit 3.5v according to the built in reader and it started flashing rapidly. Is 3.5v considered around 50% battery capacity or less? I think an easier system would be if the light flashed 1-10 times indicating 10-100%.



In my experience it is well below 50%. Can't give you any specific number I'm afraid.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 30, 2014)

soul347 said:


> Thanks for giving precise voltage readings. My light hit 3.5v according to the built in reader and it started flashing rapidly. Is 3.5v considered around 50% battery capacity or less? I think an easier system would be if the light flashed 1-10 times indicating 10-100%.


3.5V is nearly fully drained. Typically, you would be about to experience significant output reduction ar this voltage, if you haven't already. Assuming a well regulated light driven at a high level, you really don't have much time left.
If the light had already dropped down to low output, you will have more significant runtime left (at this lower level).

It isn't really possible to give an absolute percentage scale, as a lot depends on what output level you intend to use, and how the circuit responds to low voltage in that mode.


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## Ryp (Mar 30, 2014)

At what voltage should I recharge the battery, 3.6/7? Thanks.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 31, 2014)

Ryp said:


> At what voltage should I recharge the battery, 3.6/7? Thanks.


It doesn't hurt to frequently recharge. It's really a question how much reserve capacity do you want left at any given time. Personally, I would recommend recharging a battery once <3.7V - I like to make sure I have a lot of juice left, in case I need it for extended periods.


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## Rick_R (Apr 2, 2014)

selfbuilt's comment "It doesn't hurt to frequently recharge". I would agree with. I use the P12 so much, that I re-charge the battery every 2 - 3 days (nights) use. And I carry a spare. When I check the voltage, it's usually beween 3.5v & 3.8v.
After using any light for awhile, you get an idea of when to change-out/charge the cell, whthout contsantly checking volts.


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## Don Sanchez (May 24, 2014)

Hello there, thanks for this detailed review.

I have a question regarding the step-down on the highest setting. I saw on charts that the P12 steps down fairly quickly after only two minutes or so.
My question is, what happens if the light is put on the highest setting and used for lets say five minutes, then turned off and on again later? Will I have the full 950 lumen again? Is there a wait time or is it dependent on heat or how does this work?


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## selfbuilt (May 24, 2014)

Yes, you will have full turbo power immediately upon re-activation


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## Don Sanchez (May 24, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, you will have full turbo power immediately upon re-activation



Thanks. I always wondered how the advertised over 1 hour on 950 lumen would work if it steps down. I guess to reach that runtime one would theoretically have to keep turning the flashlight off and on every minute.
Not that anyone would want to do that, but could the flashlight get damaged because of overheating? Is there any heat control mechanism? Or are the step-downs simply timer based?

I could imagine theres a big difference between using the flashlight on a warm summer night right after sunset and a freezing cold winter night with strong winds blowing...


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## selfbuilt (May 24, 2014)

Don Sanchez said:


> Thanks. I always wondered how the advertised over 1 hour on 950 lumen would work if it steps down. I guess to reach that runtime one would theoretically have to keep turning the flashlight off and on every minute.


No, the advertised rating includes the step down. The ANSI FL-1 standard measures are independent, and do not imply any sort of continuous set output. The output measure is simply max output between 30 secs and 2 mins post activation. The runtime measure is simply time to 10% of that output on a normal continuous run. If the normal behavior is to step-down, then that is the runtime reported.

No flashlight with a step-down is meant to be run repeatedly/continuously at their highest level.

Oh, and :welcome:


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## KITROBASKIN (Jun 1, 2014)

Just to confirm: The Nitecore P12 does not have a low voltage disconnect, right? Since I use it on a headstrap it may very well be that the flashing button will not be seen. By the time the light is noticeably dimmer I'm guessing the battery is discharged beyond 'good practice'.

Typically, I charge batteries when they get to the 3.8-3.9 voltage range but am now using unprotected cells in the P12 and was wondering if there was an LVD as a failsafe.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 2, 2014)

KITROBASKIN said:


> Just to confirm: The Nitecore P12 does not have a low voltage disconnect, right?


No, it does not have a low-voltage cut-off feature in its circuit (AFAIK).


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## MightyBright (Jun 5, 2014)

Does anyone have experience carrying this in a pocket or clipped to a belt? How did it work out?


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## UnderPar (Jun 7, 2014)

Based on experience, Nitecore clips are not that sturdy and easily slips from the light. Thus, I don't clip it on my belt but instead use the holster or clip it in my front pocket.


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## zebraa (Jul 10, 2014)

UnderPar said:


> Based on experience, Nitecore clips are not that sturdy and easily slips from the light. Thus, I don't clip it on my belt but instead use the holster or clip it in my front pocket.


Agree. 

I used superglue, it not just stays on but stays lined up with the mode change button.


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## TCY (Jul 12, 2014)

I'm here to report that my P12 is dead after 2 drops on concrete floor, each less than 1m. By dead I mean that only the 1 lumen mode is responding to me. 
Contacted Nitecore, they were happy to give me a replacement(or repair?), RMA number was issued. Will probably send the light to them in the next few days.


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## ZackMorris (Jul 24, 2014)

Decided to pick this up, thanks for the review.


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## oKtosiTe (Jul 25, 2014)

TCY said:


> I'm here to report that my P12 is dead after 2 drops on concrete floor, each less than 1m. By dead I mean that only the 1 lumen mode is responding to me.
> Contacted Nitecore, they were happy to give me a replacement(or repair?), RMA number was issued. Will probably send the light to them in the next few days.


I think I read somewhere that drop tests are usually performed on thick plywood, so the drop height ratings are usually pretty useless... 
Hope it works out for you.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 25, 2014)

oKtosiTe said:


> I think I read somewhere that drop tests are usually performed on thick plywood, so the drop height ratings are usually pretty useless...


Actually, the ANSI FL-1 standard requires that they be dropped on cured concrete at least 4cm thick (and a minimum square meter in surface area). Each light is to be dropped 6 times (corresponding to each possible orientation, as if it were a cube), and 5 samples per model are to be tested. Requirement to pass is all samples continue to function after repeated 1m drops, with no visible cracks (scratches and dings are fine).

So the ANSI FL-1 standard is quite reasonable. The question of course is who knows which manufacturers actually perform the ANSI FL-1 tests on all their models.


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## oKtosiTe (Jul 26, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Actually, the ANSI FL-1 standard requires that they be dropped on cured concrete at least 4cm thick (and a minimum square meter in surface area). Each light is to be dropped 6 times (corresponding to each possible orientation, as if it were a cube), and 5 samples per model are to be tested. Requirement to pass is all samples continue to function after repeated 1m drops, with no visible cracks (scratches and dings are fine).
> 
> So the ANSI FL-1 standard is quite reasonable. The question of course is who knows which manufacturers actually perform the ANSI FL-1 tests on all their models.



That's good to know.


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## chang1 (Aug 1, 2014)

*1 Lumen Fault*



TCY said:


> I'm here to report that my P12 is dead after 2 drops on concrete floor, each less than 1m. By dead I mean that only the 1 lumen mode is responding to me.
> Contacted Nitecore, they were happy to give me a replacement(or repair?), RMA number was issued. Will probably send the light to them in the next few days.



My P12 only arrived last week and I have had the same thing happen. The first drop of about 50cm did no harm but the second of about 75cm, bouncing off my leg and a wall which reduced the impact, gave it the 1 lumen fault. It will cycle through all the other modes (with no illumination) including the flashing ones and return to the working 1 lumen mode. The blue led works OK. If I have it in another mode and tap the head it will flash so it is probably just a bad joint. 
As I use it for work and it will get a lot of abuse this is not a good start. Has anyone dismantled a P12 yet and found the week spot that causes this to happen? I would prefer to repair it instead of sending it back and possibly ending up with another doing the same thing again.


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## ice_man (Aug 6, 2014)

*Re: 1 Lumen Fault*

I love the P12. I got it a couple of days ago and it's been pretty awesome. I hope that when I do drop this, it won't have this problem.

I also got the Thrunite TN12 and the Nitecore SRT5. However I still liked the P12 more and decided to retrun the other 2. The TN12 has a greenish tint which I didn't like and it is so smooth that I didn't like handling it. As for the Nitecore SRT5, the body was well made and the knurlings are excellent. But it is thinner and handles rather too light for my taste. It also runs hot faster than the P12.

All in all, I stuck to the P12 because of handling and ease of use.


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## joshjp (Aug 8, 2014)

I want to buy the P12, there is a seller one Ebay selling them brand new for 39.99, should I trust him? Are there any fake ones?.

Website.. http://m.ebay.com/itm/251603091539?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE


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## GordoJones88 (Aug 8, 2014)

joshjp said:


> I want to buy the P12, there is a seller one Ebay selling them brand new for 39.99, should I trust him? Are there any fake ones?.
> 
> Website.. http://m.ebay.com/itm/251603091539?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE



That looks legit and a really good deal.
He has 99% 16,000 positive feedback.
He is also selling other Nitecore products.


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## ice_man (Aug 10, 2014)

Loved this light so much that I decided to buy another one for $39.99. What a sweet deal. Will be giving it to my Dad...

Thanks for posting the ebay link joshjp...


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## johnroq220p16 (Aug 11, 2014)

Nice review of the P12, hope to see the review of Nitecore P20 & P16 as I want to know if this light is using PWM on any mode...thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums


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## TCY (Aug 12, 2014)

TCY said:


> I'm here to report that my P12 is dead after 2 drops on concrete floor, each less than 1m. By dead I mean that only the 1 lumen mode is responding to me.
> Contacted Nitecore, they were happy to give me a replacement(or repair?), RMA number was issued. Will probably send the light to them in the next few days.



It's been a whole month already.. didn't realise that. 
So basically I sent the light to Nitecore about two weeks ago, and I haven't heard back from them yet. I shipped my light with airmail without a tracking number(or code?) so I don't even know if Nitecore has the light or not.


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## joshjp (Aug 12, 2014)

Hmmmm, well you should call them, i would be mad if it took that long, let us know what the deal is?.


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## TCY (Aug 18, 2014)

Back to update. I sent an email to Nitecore and they replied 2 hours ago(apparently they don't check their inbox during weekends but I'm ok with that) saying that they have received my light and will return it to me asap, but they didn't mention if they were going to replace the light or simply repair it.
Anyway I will be back after I get my light


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## TCY (Sep 4, 2014)

I just got the parcel and Nitecore sent me a brand new light. The tail cap feels much tighter though. Maybe a new batch just got off the production line? 
Anyway kudos NC customer service:thumbsup:


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## North light (Sep 4, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> I have just posted detailed individual reviews of Fenix PD35, Nitecore P12 and Thrunite TN12-2014. Since the lights are all very similar, the decision most of you have will be which _one_ to get.
> 
> To help with that, here are direct comparisons of key features of the lights, to allow you to better choose the one that is right for you. Please see the table/figures in the review for more info.
> 
> ...


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## smallmagnum (Oct 9, 2014)

Hello selfbuilt.

Three days ago i received my Nitecore P12, and i am very satisfied with it.
I agree with all of your descriptions. With one exception. The beam - maybe it's only my imagination, but i see a donut hole.
Not very intensive, but the beam gets a little bit darker towards the center of the spot. This effect becomes less intensive in medhigh and nearly disappears in high level.
One can only notice this effect on a smooth, white wall. As i don't want to be a white wall hunter, i underline, that the P12 has a first class beam in practise. But i'd like to know, whether there is anybody out there, who agrees with me.

By the way.
The price for the P12 in Germany is about 60.- Euro. This equates to 76.- USD.

Thank's and Kind Regards from Germany
Peter


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## selfbuilt (Oct 9, 2014)

smallmagnum said:


> I agree with all of your descriptions. With one exception. The beam - maybe it's only my imagination, but i see a donut hole.
> Not very intensive, but the beam gets a little bit darker towards the center of the spot. This effect becomes less intensive in medhigh and nearly disappears in high level.


Thanks for sharing your experience. That can certainly happen (on all lights) - precise focusing can be variable. If it is not severe enough to be distracting, I think most would chalk it up to normal variation. But it is indeed something that can be variable from one sample to another.


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## CelticCross74 (Oct 9, 2014)

The P12 was one of the worst Nitecores I have had and I have had a few. Coming from having a PD35 as my EDC light for a couple of months it is easy to tell Nitecore rushed out the P12 because the PD35 sales are non stop. The Nitecore just feels cheap. The anodizing in shiny and thin. The light is obnoxiously bright with a nearly purple heavy tint that just screams cheap. The hot spot is smaller vs my PD35 and the P12 does have a touch more range. Once again I doubt Nitecores marketing PR that it is a 960 lumen light. Nitecore is notorious for false claims. Id say 850 ish lumens at best. The PD35 has been tested to over 1000 lumens OTF on the other hand and thats the non 2014 version. 

In hindsight I got a Nitecore EA41 and it is the best built Nitecore Ive had.


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## phantom23 (Oct 10, 2014)

Tint is quite random in both PD35 and P12, sometimes PD35 is cooler. P12 is also available with NW emitter.


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## feifei (Oct 12, 2014)

Nitecore PD12 looks awesome,love its design and runtime seems to ne good,too.


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## CelticCross74 (Nov 30, 2014)

Just ordered the 2015 1000 lumen P12 this should be interesting


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## thegaunlet (Dec 1, 2014)

jabara572 said:


> THE REVERSE POLARITY PROTECTION/FLAT TOP ISSUE CAN BE FIXED EASILY!!! :twothumbs
> 
> The physical polarity protection is just a thin black plastic disk. You can see the plastic "fingers" that snap around the center post on the top head. I took a sharp knife (just to get a "bite" on it) and was able to "pop" the disk off the center post in about 10 seconds. After that flat tops/any 18650 will work just fine! Been running some salvaged sanyo 2600 flat tops for weeks no problems....
> 
> So if you like this light except you are worried about the battery issue, it can be easily fixed with just a few seconds (and is totally reversible, just snap the black plastic piece back on). Obviously be careful and gentle while doing it... and dont blame me if you mess up your P12.... but trust me it really is a piece of cake



Thanks jabara572! It works on the Nitecore SRT5 and perhaps all others using that plastic disc as their "patented physical reverse polarity" function. The plastic disc isn't very durable and can crack/lose the fingers over time. No need for button top magnets no more!


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## damduck73 (Dec 19, 2014)

CelticCross74 said:


> Just ordered the 2015 1000 lumen P12 this should be interesting



I have the P12 2015 1000 lumen underneath the Christmas tree.
As this is my first official "real light" needless to say I am exited.


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## selfbuilt (Dec 19, 2014)

damduck73 said:


> I have the P12 2015 1000 lumen underneath the Christmas tree.
> As this is my first official "real light" needless to say I am exited.


Hope you enjoy it. And :welcome:


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## soul347 (Dec 21, 2014)

TCY said:


> I'm here to report that my P12 is dead after 2 drops on concrete floor, each less than 1m. By dead I mean that only the 1 lumen mode is responding to me.
> Contacted Nitecore, they were happy to give me a replacement(or repair?), RMA number was issued. Will probably send the light to them in the next few days.



That's really unfortunate. I've dropped my P12 (before 2014) at least 8 times from higher distances on solid ground. Almost each time I did purposely to test the durability. The light is still running solid and just has some scrapes in the anodizing. I guess like with all manufacturers you get some lemons


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## CelticCross74 (Dec 22, 2014)

Had the 2015 edition P12 for almost a month now and LOVE it!! Nitecore seems to have addressed all the issues I had with it! It is VERY bright and the tint is cool blue with no hint of purple. On the other hand my beloved PD35 croaked! It just became a flicker then out basketcase for unknown reasons...


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## opus360 (Dec 23, 2014)

I just order a P12 960 lumen version, an Olight charger and an Olight 3400mah 18650. The AW 18650 test above used a 2200mah battery. Does that mean a 3400mah can be expected to last about 50% more than a 2200mah battery?


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## selfbuilt (Dec 23, 2014)

opus360 said:


> Does that mean a 3400mah can be expected to last about 50% more than a 2200mah battery?


Basically, yes. 

It's a little more complicated by the fact that a lot of multi-power 1x18650 lights drop down to direct-drive rapidly on max levels, rather than stay flatly regulated. Since outputs drop slowly, runtime may not be exactly proportional to what you would expect by the apparent capacity increase.

If you browse some of my recent reviews, like the Nitecore EC20, you'll see that I am switching over to 3100mAh cells in my testing. That review will give you a good example of how the P12 performs on 3100mAh and 2200mAh specifically.


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## opus360 (Dec 23, 2014)

selfbuilt said:


> Basically, yes.



Thank you. Despite having seen the video, I did not notice that change. BTW, I have seen several of your videos. Great reviews.

Are you standardizing future reviews on the AW 3100mah then?


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## selfbuilt (Dec 24, 2014)

opus360 said:


> Thank you. Despite having seen the video, I did not notice that change. BTW, I have seen several of your videos. Great reviews.


Thanks. I haven't discussed this in the videos, since those are really just to give a build and UI overview - I save all the "gory details" of performance for the written reviews. I find that separation works well, since the text reviews here are a much better medium for presenting data, whereas the videos are a much better way to describe how a light actually works in practice.



> Are you standardizing future reviews on the AW 3100mah then?


Yes, you will see that in all my reviews going forward.


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## CelticCross74 (Dec 31, 2014)

Im guessing the 2015 P12 is roughly the same output on max and just has an XM-L2 U2 instead? Ive got the 2015 version and like the modes and the tint better than the original


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## selfbuilt (Jan 1, 2015)

I am hoping to review the new P12 2015, but don't have a time frame yet.


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## WetMacula (Jan 1, 2015)

I have a P12 2015 on the way and already own an older Fenix PD30. Anybody know if a green protected Panasonic NCR18650B will fit in these lights?


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## WetMacula (Jan 1, 2015)

Double Post


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## T0M (May 6, 2015)

Please some words of advice:
I have the P12 (2015 model, 1000 lumens) in use for a month or two. A strange fenomenon happens that I have not read about here or anywhere else.

Once I select the highest lumen setting, the light switches off in a second. Just off. Once I click it off again and then back on, I have to really fast change mode to a lesser output to be able to use it again. I have been able to use the highest output setting for a while though, at which time, this strange behaviour did not occur.

I use an Ultrafire BRC 4000 Mah 18650 battery. Is this maybe too much Mah? I have tested this battery with another P12 and the same thing occurred so I guess it must be the battery. Only: What is the logic? And will a new battery of lesser mah help me out here?


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## selfbuilt (May 6, 2015)

T0M said:


> I use an Ultrafire BRC 4000 Mah 18650 battery. Is this maybe too much Mah? I have tested this battery with another P12 and the same thing occurred so I guess it must be the battery. Only: What is the logic? And will a new battery of lesser mah help me out here?


It is indeed likely to be the battery - but not because of too much capacity. Rather, Ultrafire is an extremely unreliable brand. Capacity ratings are known to be widely exaggerated. There are no end of counterfeits, fakes, recycled cells, etc. Most likely explanation is that the battery is in such poor shape that it can't supply enough current to the light to keep it on. Please try a brand-name battery (basically, anything without "xxxxfire" in the title). You can see HKJ's test of this battery here: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/UltraFire BRC18650 4000 mAh (Brown-Gold) UK.html (it performed poorly for the class).

:welcome:


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## D6859 (May 8, 2015)

I'm considering ordering this light to replace my current EDC, TN12. I prefer having only 4 modes as the turbo in TN12 differs from hi only a little. I also prefer having a step-down after I accidentally turned on the TN12 on turbo, left it on my bed and soon found it too hot to touch. Voltage meter would be good addition because I often forget when I've charged the battery last time. I can get the light for 49,90 eur offer from a Finnish dealer which I regard as a good deal.

But I'm worried if the medium mode is not enough and the low-med too high for my needs. With TN12 I use med mainly for bicycling and low-med for most of the indoor tasks. It seems P12 has a little tighter hotspot and spill, so maybe the difference between the models isn't notable when comparing the med mode? And maybe having higher low-med is just better considering the mode spacing?

Are there some pros/cons I haven't considered? Is it worth changing or should I stay with the TN12? Or are there even better newer options in this price range?


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## BugoutBoys (Nov 9, 2015)

I probably sound dumb for asking this, but in your runtimes it shows the P12 lasting over 240 minutes.. On Nitecore's site it says the P12 can only last 1 hour 15 minutes on max.. That's only 75 minutes. Why do your actual tests show it lasting so much longer? And why would they underrate it on their manufacturer stats?


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## D6859 (Nov 25, 2015)

BugoutBoys said:


> I probably sound dumb for asking this, but in your runtimes it shows the P12 lasting over 240 minutes.. On Nitecore's site it says the P12 can only last 1 hour 15 minutes on max.. That's only 75 minutes. Why do your actual tests show it lasting so much longer? And why would they underrate it on their manufacturer stats?



Maybe they turned the max mode on after every timed step-down? But could the light manage the heat, I wonder...


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## selfbuilt (Nov 26, 2015)

D6859 said:


> Maybe they turned the max mode on after every timed step-down? But could the light manage the heat, I wonder...


Yeah, their estimate is a little unusual. :shrug: But as always, this is why I recommend everyone rely on actual runtime graphs as opposed to stated runtime specs.


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## Silverone858 (Feb 27, 2016)

*Re: Nitecore P12*

Hey there, 2nd post here! 
I have been lurking for awhile and finally bought a p12 with nitecore intele charger and 2 2300 mah 18650. Charged overnight and tried it for the first time and the only mode that works is low. With low mode on I can click the mode button and I get nothing until the 4th click which is low again. So I tried the 2nd battery and I get the same. I'm pretty sure it's defective. I am waiting for a reply from the eBay seller (Edison bright led) and just wanted to make sure there's nothing else I can try. What do you guys think?


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## selfbuilt (Mar 2, 2016)

*Re: Nitecore P12*



Silverone858 said:


> I'm pretty sure it's defective. I am waiting for a reply from the eBay seller (Edison bright led) and just wanted to make sure there's nothing else I can try. What do you guys think?


Do you have voltmeter to measure the resting voltage of the 18650s? Something is clearly defective in this scenario - although you would want to rule out the charger.

:welcome:


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## knyt_crawlr (Apr 27, 2016)

*Re: Nitecore P12*

The Nitecore P12 looks to be my next purchase. Thanks for the in-depth review! Lots of great info here.


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## knyt_crawlr (Apr 30, 2016)

*Re: Nitecore P12*

Picked up both a PD35 2014 Version and a P12 2015 Version. Like both lights for different reasons. Like different features on each of the lights. A P12GT and a PD35 TAC arrive next week so I can truly compare all 4 of these great lights to each other.


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## vadimax (Nov 9, 2016)

*Re: Nitecore P12*

Something unbelievable has happened -- Nitecore released neutral white P12W.


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