# "200 lumen" DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire



## luminari (Feb 12, 2007)

My DealExtreme.com light arrived today, the DX-named "U2-Style 3W CREE 1x18650 Flashlight"; Don't you miss their Swedish names? Old favorites like the LILL, the GLIMT, the ELLY? A few of them (ok, many of them) were goofy, but at least there was no doubt about what light you were talking about. It would be easier if this was just called something like the MOFO. This light is sku 1285, and manufactured by EastwardYJ: EastwardYJ claim 180-200 lumens of luminous flux, and a P4-bin Cree driven at 1200 mA, though DX only states the 1200 mA; I ordered it on 1/25/07, so it is probably the regulated model.

Unfortunately, there is a bit of confusion as to the various versions of this light. As far as I know, there was a prototype 800 mA version with a smooth reflector which was never shipped, there is this 1200 mA regulated version with a textured reflector, and there was for a brief time a "Lunar New Years special edition" UNregulated version that was $25.95 (cheaper due to lack of regulation, according to DealExtreme). This review covers the $26.95 regulated 1200 mA version with textured reflector. I forgot to take a pic of the body, so here's the DX pic: 






The new textured reflector...





Inside the mediocre tailcap...




*Starting on the outside...*
Just to start off, I was pleasantly surprised that there were no Surefire trademarks anywhere to be found. Upon close examination of the light, it's pretty clear that this is not the same light as the old ripoff K2 U2 copy reviewed on CPF. The grip on the body is quite different, and the decorating ring is actually one-piece with the head and made out of aluminum. On the body, it says EastwardYJ and CREE POWER. To be safe, they should make sure they have permission from Cree to use its name. It's good to see that EastwardYJ is labeling the light with its own brand. After all, it seems to be a good product, and why not start building brand recognition now rather than later? Anyways, props for doing the right thing. While you're at it, you could alter that selector ring. It doesn't turn, so what's the point of the U2-style ring? Why not make it useful and machine it to have heat sinking fins or something? Ok, I digress.

The body is very sturdy. I have lots of lights made out of aluminum, but this one seems to be made out of THICK aluminum, and the construction is of surprisingly high quality. I certainly prefer it to [email protected] quality, and it appears to be similar to Fenix, but thicker. The anodizing also appears to be much harder than the [email protected] stuff.

The light tailstands pretty well, especially with the included lanyard removed. The crown is crenulated, which is nice for telling you when the light's been left on. The crenulations aren't very sharp/aggressive, though, so I don't think it would do as well as it could have in a fight  I don't think we need shark teeth necessarily, but if you're going to crenulate, you might as well make it useful. Oddly, some of the machined rings on the body next to the EastwardYJ logo are quite sharp. It probably won't cut you in normal use, but it's something they could address in a future revision.

Water resistance seems to be there. There's a solid o-ring seated in front of the threads with plenty of extra length on the tailcap so that you can run the light with the tailcap unscrewed many turns and still have water protection. doc_felixander has confirmed that there is an o-ring between the lens and the bezel, and that the "head" after the bezel is actually one single piece with the body.

There are tons of threads for the tailcap. Another nice touch. I was actually surprised at how many turns it took to open the back. Very sturdy, and well machined. Since most of the threads aren't anodized, you can run the light with the tailcap in various amounts of twistage; this lets you easily compensate for protected and unprotected 18650's of various lengths without overly compressing the spring in the head.

*Features...*
The switch is a reverse two-stage clicky. The switch and boot work decently well together, and I definitely like its action better than the LILL switch. It could definitely use a lot of improvement, though, and a few users have reported issues with the switch. I always wondered about why manufacturers bothered to cheap out on switches on some of the other lights (not this one)... I'm pretty sure people would be willing to pay an extra $1-$2 for a much better switch that they can rely on.

The model I got is the "regulated" model. doc_felixander (see post below) discovered that the emitter is mounted on a star which itself is mounted on a brass or copper heatsink slug. This slug is threaded and screws into the body. Underneath the slug is a Zetec-like boost circuit which does confirm the existance of a regulator circuit.  Performance of this boost circuit will need to be proven through an independent runtime test.

*Performance...*
The aluminum reflector now has a light texturing to it; I guess the original rings were too much, and the white wall watchers should be happy with this one; I was hoping for a smooth reflector for more throw, but it's still quite powerful in the hotspot. The spot is tight, and the spillbeam is quite smooth. Tint is pretty good; definitely better than a lot of my luxeon lottery winners.

Even with the reflector now textured, it seems to womp on my P1D-CE for both throw and overall output. Obviously they serve different purposes as the EastwardYJ light is like 4 times bigger than the P1D-CE and has a clicky + huge reflector, but I figured so many CPFers have the P1D-CE that it would be a worthy comparison. CPF user wmpwi has a beamshot below which shows it next to the well-regarded D-Mini: the DealExtreme light is clearly brighter in the spillbeam, and the spillbeam is also much larger than the D-Mini's. The hotspot of this light compared to the D-Mini using a smooth reflector is not as bright.

Low mode is surprisingly low, which is great. Sounds like DealExtreme is relaying user wishes to the manufacturers.

My 18650 cells are still somewhere over the Pacific or languishing in US Customs, so I used an unprotected 3.7v CR123 with a ghetto handmade spacer cell. Don't try this at home!

Two independent users (thanks, Randy555 and ProteinMan!) have measured the current draw at the battery to be 1620 and 1500 mA on high. Low appears to be around 350 mA. After regulator efficiency losses (10-25%), I suppose that could be close to 1200 mA to the actual CREE led. It's hard to say exactly without measuring it at the LED.

Two other users (FengLock and WindScale) have tried the regulated version (NOT the Lunar New Years special non-regulated version) of this light with two 3volt CR123a and 3.7volt RCR123a cells and reported that brightness is the same or slightly higher than the brightness with a single 18650. This implies that there is some kind of regulating circuitry in there, otherwise we'd have lots of magic smoke if it was direct drive to the Cree LED at 6-8.4 volts. ProteinMan put in a dying 2.85 volt 18650 into the light and still measured the draw at 1250 mA. However, doc_felixander tried using 2 RCR123a's and it cooked the LED, so it seems that if you decide to run it on 2 cells, it's running the risk of seriously over-volting the LED. This seems fair as DealExtreme has made it clear that the light is designed for 1 18650 cell, and not 2 CR123 cells.

*Beamshots...*
So the P1D-CE is running a fully charged and rested Tenergy 3.0v RCR123a. The EastwardYJ is running a fully charged and rested DealExtreme 3.6v RCR123a. I know the P1D-CE can run a 3.6v RCR123a, but the 3.0v RCR123a's actually run a bit high anyways (around 3.4-3.1 volts), so I'm trying to keep it to spec (as much as possible, anyways). Just like I could overvolt a G2 or Maxfire, but that's not what most people would do with the stock bulb. Uh, plus I only have one 3.6v CR123a so the Fenix is stuck with the 3.0v RCR123. The specified battery for the EastwardYJ is 3.6 volts.

Left: P1D-CE running on Max Right: EastwardYJ CREE light on High




Holy cow, look at that spill beam. So the EastwardYJ has a smoother beam, a brighter spot, and a MUCH brighter spillbeam. I can only imagine what the spot was like before they nerfed...er, textured the reflector. :laughing:

Same as above, stopped down two stops. The EastwardYJ is definitely hotter on the hotspot.






Here is another shot taken a day later (the EastwardYJ's battery is only a RCR123a instead of an 18650 [still in the mail!] and is not 100% fully charged, but you get the idea):
P1D-CE on the left, EastwardYJ on the right.






Left: Maxfire Right: EastwardYJ on high




Again, this time against a familiar foe: the Brinkman Maxfire. Color temp aside, the Maxfire has a dimmer hotspot and a much dimmer spillbeam.

Same as above, stopped down.





Right: P1D-CE on low Left: EastwardYJ on low




I wouldn't call it super-low, but I'm pretty sure it's lower than the 350mA @~3.5volts spec'ed on the DealExtreme page. Which is a good thing  I don't have my meter here so I can't do power measurements.

After several minutes on high, the head was just slightly warm, and somewhat cooler than the P1D-CE next to it. This doesn't mean much, though, as it could either mean 1. the bin is indeed a decent bin (they claim a P4) and it's transferring heat well into the body or 2. the die isn't heat transferring properly, which is a sad manufacturing problem that affects a few cheaper lights due to insufficient thermal compound or lack of thermal conductivity to the body. However, since the light didn't cook itself/smoke/change tints over the test, I'm guessing it is seated properly and thermal compound has been applied sufficiently.

*To the vendor or manufacturer...*
Actually, I'd buy another right now, but it's lunar new year, and I guess most people on the other side of the globe are on vacation.

Given the ease of swapping reflectors, it would be great if it came with a smooth and a textured reflector. Either that, or they could sell another reflector for a few bucks. A snap-on diffuser lens (like the Petzl Myo XP's) would be hawt. A snap-on aspheric optic lens would be incredible for newbie's "white laser" action. I can buy one on ebay for $5, but why not make one that fits this light (and fattens the manufacturer's wallet)? Of course, we'd rather not have a bunch of proprietary parts, so keeping a certain design around for a few generations (ahem, Fenix!) would be appreciated. At least keeping the head shape and clicky threads the same would be nice.

I'm sure many would also like a true non-reversed tactical clicky. Half-press turns it on full blast, and a full press keeps it on until you full-press again. Just like the Maxfire's switch. But I also like having two stages! Suggestion to DX or EastwardYJ: include both, or sell an option.

Full regulation would be nice. I don't have runtime charts, but DX's show that it drops pretty predictably.

Not that the vendors read these reviews  but we can always hope...

*Conclusion...
*Wow, I didn't expect this light to kick so much butt. Given that it cost me $26.95 including shipping, or roughly the price of one P61 replacement bulb, I wasn't sure what to expect.

I'm very happy with this purchase. Kudos to DealExtreme and EastwardYJ. For its size, this is a very bright, smooth outputting light. For my purposes, I could have gotten a D-mini, but I was hoping the uber-output of this light would be for real. I've read EastwardYJ claims of 180-200 lumens, and judging by the beamshots compared to the powerful 110-120 lumen P1D-CE, it's probably somewhere up there. There's room for improvement, especially in those balky switches, but at under $27 I'm a happy camper.

For outdoor workers or officers on duty, this could be a great light. Only a Hamilton more than a mag, not a whole lot of electronics to go bad, and the laptop-derived 18650 cell is a monster in terms of capacity. As long as that switch holds up and you don't dunk it, it should be good.


----------



## Manzerick (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: DealExtreme U2-style CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

TY for the nice review!

I was wondering about this one


----------



## Nake (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: DealExtreme U2-style CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

If you have a D-mini, see if the reflector from it has the same dimensions as the one in the U2 Style.


----------



## EngrPaul (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: DealExtreme U2-style CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

Very nice review! Thanks  

How's the quality of the tail? Can you snap a picture of the (-) terminal area?


----------



## ksonger (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: DealExtreme U2-style CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

anyone know how long the lunar new years break is going to be?

ken


----------



## luminari (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: DealExtreme U2-style CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

Doh, my camera stuff is all disassembled. I'll try to post up a pic in the near future. The tail requires a pretty good amount of force to actuate. Since it's already flush with the aluminum body of the tail (and therefore accident-resistant), I don't know why they require so much force. Not the best, but not the worst I've used. Like the ones you've described, Paul, it doesn't work as well when the force applied isn't exactly perpendicular to the button.

C'mon, how much can a Maxfire-style switch actually cost them to mass produce?  Throw us a bone, here!

The terminal is actually a raised copper slug rather than a spring; the spring is in the head end. I'm guessing they did this because many 18650 cells don't have button tops. Inside the light is a small diagram on a sticker that indicates + towards the head.

Personally, I was originally on the DX 3.0 watt modular light list (the one which takes CR123a's and 18650's.) However, I actually needed big throw for my application, which involves mounting the light. DX's bump to 1200mA did the trick for me. However, along with the bump, they textured the reflector, which actually isn't what I wanted. Oh well. I'm curious how they measured 1200mA.


----------



## daveman (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

This light does NOT look 200 lumens strong to me. Not by a long shot.


----------



## vinsanity286 (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

Great review. I am confused though. If I ordered the light from DX now, would it have the regulation board or not. Does yours have the regulation board?


----------



## beefy6969 (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

I wonder how this would compare with the LumaPower LumaHunter M1. On RCR123 and 1865.


----------



## timcodes (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

I'd be very interested in looking at the run-time. I doubt it's fully regulated like the p1d-ce. Plus if you put the rcr123 on the p1d-ce it will probably be 25% brighter?


----------



## adirondackdestroyer (Feb 12, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

If this light is at all regulated then it is a nomination for best bang for your buck!


----------



## Raptor# (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

I don't think its regulated, but the pretty flat discharge curve of Li-Ions should make the discharge curve look at least "semi-regulated".


----------



## protein_man (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

Thanks, great review, i have one of these lights on order, I was kind of hoping for a smooth reflector, I dont care much about rings and such, I prefer more throw over a pretier white wall.


I'm checking the mail everyday, cant wait for mine to arrive!


----------



## frosty (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

Has anyone received the SSC version of this light?


----------



## Strauss (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*



timcodes said:


> I'd be very interested in looking at the run-time. I doubt it's fully regulated like the p1d-ce. Plus if you put the rcr123 on the p1d-ce it will probably be 25% brighter?


 
It has already been proven in the past that the P1D-CE is not any brighter on a 3.7V rcr123 than a regular 3V primary.


----------



## Nake (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*



frosty said:


> Has anyone received the SSC version of this light?


 
Haven't seen one. Got a link?


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

I take it this is the newer version feeding 1.2A current?
Very nice, im happy i took the plunge and ordered this last week! 

I would certainly like to see those accessories available too!

- Smooth reflector
- Diffuser lens
- Aspheric lens to change this torch into a mini search light!

I dont really mind the reverse clicky tho.


----------



## KnOeFz (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

Yay, mine is on it's way too. I'm glad to see the first review is very positive.
Although this makes me even more impatient for the package to arrive. :laughing: 

Opposed to some others I'm happy with the orange peel reflector. If you guys want a smooth one keep an eye on Kaidomain, their 'soon to come' version of this light appears to have a smooth reflector (based on the shown pictures) but seems to be driven less hard. http://kaidomain.com/products/sku125.html

*goes back staring at his mailbox*


----------



## luminari (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*



daveman said:


> This light does NOT look 200 lumens strong to me. Not by a long shot.



Are you speaking from personal experience or just by looking at my jpegs? I guess that depends what you define as "a long shot." We all know that the P1D-CE is from 110-120 lumens (actual, not the advertised overrated 135). You can clearly see that the hotspot is brighter on this, and the spillbeam is much more than twice as bright (to human eyes). Given that the surface area of the spillbeam is similar to the P1D-CE, if you integrate the area cast by the spillbeam and multiply it by the brightness of a portion of the spillbeam, I think it's quite close to twice as bright as the P1D-CE. 110 lumens times two is around 200 lumens. Give a big margin of error and let's say 150-170 lumens. That's still close to the 180-200. As I clearly stated in my review, I said "It's probably close to that".

Take a P1D-CE and move it from primary to high: to most eyes it's not "twice" as bright, even though the actual lumens output is. This is just a human perception phenomenon.

Anyways, I think we'd all be thrilled if you test this light and post actual results with an integrating sphere. 
...

Thanks for the comments, guys. I'm pretty sure this is the 1200 mA version from a few weeks ago. 

Buyer beware: the current batch on DealExtreme Kyle (co-owner of DX) states to be "unregulated". Not that mine seems regulated, either, but hey, at least they are honest. Your mileage will vary; who knows, the current batch could be brighter or dimmer.


----------



## berto (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*

I was told that the current lunar batch is a little brighter when first turned on.


----------



## daveman (Feb 13, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*



luminari said:


> Anyways, I think we'd all be thrilled if you test this light and post actual results with an integrating sphere.  ...


 
I couldn't have said it better myself. YOU should really use an integrating sphere before your start throwing numbers out in review. You wouldn't want people to, you know, think you're pulling numbers out of your arse or anything...


----------



## luminari (Feb 14, 2007)

I didn't pull the number out of your arse, it's what the manufacturer stated. Given the lack of a real name (e.g. the MOFO  ), it's pretty much the description of the light. As I said, it's clearly a lot brighter when it starts than the P1D-CE, which is 110 lumens. 

Do you not agree from the beamshots? I'm talking luminous flux here, not peak brightness/cp. Hmm, on second look, it might not be totally obvious from the beamshots as I should have exposed the first one more (both spillbeams are too dark) and shown more of the spillbeam. I need get a bigger wall.

Can we agree that it's brighter than a P1D-CE? So it's somewhere greater than 110 lumens?


----------



## paulr (Feb 14, 2007)

Does this light have any regulation or is it DD from the 3.7 volt cell?


----------



## daveman (Feb 14, 2007)

My apologies, Lumin, didn't mean to press you. Yes, the DX light does look brighter than the P1D CE because of its brighter hotspot, but from my monitor, there is very little spill coming out of the DX, so I thought maybe the manufacturer just focused the beam tighter in the DX light to give it brighter hotspot, as opposed to the light putting out more lumens to light the hotspot.


----------



## luminari (Feb 14, 2007)

Paulr, it sounds like the current batch is direct drive.

Dave, most of the spill is coming from the DX. As I said in the review, the DX spill is brighter, probably due to the DX's textured reflector vs. the P1D-CE's smooth one. If I had to pull something out of my arse, I'd say the spillbeam is twice as bright as my P1D-CE. When fully charged, that is... I really am thinking this light is not regulated. I shouldn't have cropped the pictures so tight so as to show more spillbeam. If there is a next time, I'll do it differently.

Keep in mind that I'm using a sad little CR123a with a crappy aluminum foil spacer, as well. A 18650 may have lower internal resistance.

On further use, I'm less and less happy with the tailcap. Oh wells, I can just make a better one I guess.


----------



## luminari (Feb 14, 2007)

Ok, EngrPaul, I've uploaded a pic of the tailcap!

There's also a better shot of the complete beams to better judge the overall brightness. Here it is again: P1D-CE on the left, EastwardYJ on the right.





Ugh, caveats for that beamshot: not a fully charged cell in the EastwardYJ light, and also an RCR123 and not the proper 18650. Anyways, you get the idea. Too much stuff to keep straight for these comparison reviews


----------



## kanarie (Feb 14, 2007)

good story
It is a bit sad that the one you reviewed is different than the current one (non-regulated) The review doesn't have the same value for new buyers


----------



## r0b0r (Feb 14, 2007)

Still a good read though!

Maybe not strictly "useful" for current purchase decisions, but it's still a very worthwhile read!
And there's pretty pictures.

Got any outside shots? I wanna see some throw ^_^

I'm still waiting on my ZPower.... DX are great but patience (when it comes to toys) is not my strong point 
I *think* it was sent on the 5th or 7th... so let's hope any day now!

I wonder if i'll receive the DX Cree aswell as the ZPower? *shrugs* who knows.


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 14, 2007)

Hold on, there are only 2 version of this light right?

The orignal which has a high of something around 800-900mA from my recollection.
And this new one which has a high of 1.2A.

What do u guys mean by lunar model, and y would this review not be applicable to current buyers?

Btw about the regulation, the current runtime graph on the DX page is the same as the initial one, which means it was not updated.
It doesnt seem the first one wasn't regulated either from that graph.


----------



## robm (Feb 14, 2007)

I think that this one is direct drive @1.2A, and the other has a resistor to reduce the current.

In this case 'regulated' has been used to mean - 'has a current reducing resistor':
from http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1285 - Discussions:


> ..., these are as bright as the regular U2-style cree. Because now it doesn't have a regulator board, when your battery is fully charged, the light will actually go the extra mile and become even brighter than the usual u2-style cree's.



Either that or the 'regulator board' wasn't a very good one


----------



## Randy555 (Feb 14, 2007)

Luminari, I have received the same light yesterday(1200ma version) and upon testing, it is really bright and has a lot of smooth even sidespill. I have one question to you base on my observation everytime I turned on the light there is about half a second delay before it turns really bright, is that normal? And another thing is when the batterry is running low it starts to flicker at 1/sec into a gradually increasing phase and then it shuts off, have you experience this? Does this confirm there some kind of regulator in it or its because I used an 18650 protected cell by ultrafire. Hope you could shed some answers.


Cheers,
Randy


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 14, 2007)

Ok im kinda confused now...

Is this line from the DX site description refering to the regular or lunar version:
"we confirmed that our previous request to the manufacturer to increase high beam to 1200mAh regulated for our shipments are implements in all of our shipments."

1. What's the difference between the Lunar Special Edition and the current regular version?

2. How can i tell the difference?

3. What was the cut off date for orders of the Lunar Special Edition?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Randy555 (Feb 14, 2007)

Hi X2X3X2,

I purchased my u2 style cree light from DX after they have confirmed the upgrade to 1200 ma and reflector issues have been implemented. I hope it helps you, btw it is really bright and by removing the lens and reflector it could be use as a nice video light for it still gives a very wide,even flood light enough for indoor video or camera shots. 

Cheers,
Randy


----------



## ksonger (Feb 14, 2007)

The lunar new year edition ws NOT regulated and hence $1 cheaper. today i saw posted this message:
"Lunar new year special edition has sold out. Orders received now are shipped with the standard edition"

I presume this means that orders received now will be regulated as well as stepped up to the 1200ma.

I think i will wait until after the holiday for all this to sort out and make my order then.

ken


----------



## luminari (Feb 14, 2007)

Yeah everything said sounds right... AFAIK, the "unregulated" lunar new year version is $1 cheaper and unregulated. I bought mine after the 1200 mA switchover, so it's probably the "regulated" 1200mA version. Honestly, I don't know if they ever shipped the original Cree 800 mA with the smooth reflector; it sounds like I got one of the first.

Hi Randy, mine doesn't have that fade-in brightness thing; it's just full blast as soon as I hit the switch. However, I'm using an unprotected 3.6v CR123a li-on... it could be the cell?

Using it as a video light sounds interesting! My only thought would be that, without any reflector, I'd be losing a lot of lumens into the black shell of the head and the star since they aren't reflective... Ideally, I'd like a diffuser on the front to diffuse everything that comes out of that reflector. Actually my Canon camcorder has a white LED video light; maybe I should mod it to a Cree


----------



## Randy555 (Feb 14, 2007)

Hi luminari,

When I get home tonight I will try using an unprotected 18650 and get some runtime on high, current reading and check if the issues I notice still exists. On using it for camera light I think you could paint the black inside of the head with some heat resistant aluminum paint and install the lens and bezel to have some protection on the cree led and you get a brighter spill beam without a hotspot.
Just an idea but its still a great deal for $26.95 shipped.

Cheers,
Randy


----------



## luminari (Feb 14, 2007)

Sweet! I'd be stoked to see some current readings.

My P1D-CEs do a bright->dim fade for all modes except Max, but that sounds like the opposite of what you get. I'm pretty sure that's just the regulating circuit kicking in.

The silver paint sounds like a great idea... I think the color temp of the light I got is great; it would probably make a good daylight-temp video light. I bet it wouldn't be hard to make a hot-shoe mount for a camcorder, either.


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 14, 2007)

So is Lunar version is the 1.2A+ and doesn't have a regulator board
while the regular ones are 1.2A and has a regulator board eh?

Darn they should have made that clear in the item description, i paid $25.95 which had the word still "regulated" stated in the item description.

He only replied in the comments regarding the Lunar being without regulator board after i paird for mine 
So i guess thats the unregulated one. Should cancel it and change to the $26.95 one then.

Btw luminari, when did u purchase your ight? I purchased mine on 13 Feb and it cost me $25.95.


----------



## Nake (Feb 14, 2007)

Looking at their graph of it, it's not much of a regulator.


----------



## luminari (Feb 14, 2007)

hey again 2x3x2, so I got my order put in on Feb 3rd; originally, I had ordered the modular DX 3.0 watt Cree light, but I changed my order to this light after it seemed like the DX was going to be delayed.

Hard to say which one is the best one to have... I could try setting up a makeshift runtime graph once my 18650 cells arrive, but it would not be as nice as those who have actual light meters connected to computers. In other words, I have no idea how well the regulation works. I do know that I drained that poor 3.6v CR123a pretty good and it was still bright compared to the benchmark lights.

Have they shipped yours yet? It seems like once they actually get it to the postal service, it arrives pretty quickly (around a week for me).


----------



## berto (Feb 14, 2007)

Iam thinking the lunar ones are better (I hope I bought 2 of them). Its supposedly brighter and the regulation on the regular ones isnt very effective. I have the regular one with me right now and it is definitely the brightest single led light I have ever seen.


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 15, 2007)

i duno, we'll have to see once someone who has the equipment does some graphs. chevrofreak perhaps?

btw that graph is from the initial 800mA on high model. DX have not updated the graph since, only the text description. it will be interesting to see how the 1.2A models fare.

luminari, i cancelled my order of the $25.95 lunar edition. i just didnt wanna risk running it in direct drive due to the variation in initial voltages of 3.7V cells. might become the first led light with a "blown bulb" to replace 

i'll just wait till after the holidays and the business is going again to purchase another.


----------



## luminari (Feb 15, 2007)

Yah, direct drive does seem to put it at the mercy of the lithium-ion cell. Though I guess those direct drivers would be good candidates for star+driver mods. Man, too bad I just bought a b-flex driver with a 1000 mA max... sounds like we're going to need 2000 mA (and greater) drivers soon with those new LumiLEDs! I guess efficiency at 2000 mA will still kind of suck.


----------



## Randy555 (Feb 15, 2007)

Hi Luminari,

I did some current reading from the battery and to my surprise I obtain 1620 ma and a runtime of 1hr 16 mins. with 1800mah unprotected 18650 cell, Using the Ultrafire 2400mah protected 18650 I got a runtime of 1hr 32mins. before the battery protection kicks in. I beleive there some sort of regulation used for the way the light performs. Really bright from start and hardly noticeable decline until it shuts off. BTW I still get the slow to fast flashing before it shuts off using the unprotected cell (approx, 10sec.) and just one flash using the protected cell at the end of runtime. Both 18650 cell were fully charge when I did the runtime. Should I be concern regarding the very high current draw from battery and operating temp. reading of 39.5 C. It is the brightest light from my led collection , has an excellent warm color output and a very sturdy solid feel in my hand. 

Cheers,
Randy


----------



## luminari (Feb 15, 2007)

Wow... 1620! I actually did a makeshift regulation test last night (unfortunately, still with a wimpy 3.6v RCR123a)... I agree with you, Randy, it's actually a pretty well regulated light. I can't run an unregulated cell down to the bone (be careful!) so I only ran it for around 30 minutes. At the end of the 30 min, it's definitely dimmer, but of course by then the RCR123a cell is probably about to croak since it's only around 600 mAh.

1620 mA is quite a bit, but if there is circuitry in there, you're probably losing 5-20% (big range, but I have no idea what's in there). I guess that would put the actual power to the LED in the same ballpark as their claimed 1200 mA (probably higher than 1200, but at least it's not lower!)

People here have driven Cree XR-E's at 2000mA to the LED, so I think you're gonna be fine. Cree recently re-certified their XR-E's to 1000 mA for extended runs, so you're probably ok. Of course, you can also run it on low mode if you're going to be using it for a while 

39C isn't outlandishly hot, but it's hard to say how hot the actual LED is getting from the body temp... I used a fan to air-cool my light during the runtime test.


----------



## Randy555 (Feb 15, 2007)

Do you find the low a bit to dim ? But if its going to give me extended runtime I fine with it, in reference with my other two stage lights like the VINET and KENBAR. The VINET almost hard to distinguish Hi from Lo and the KENBAR (MTE Version) is ideal but not as bright as this CREE U2 style but with a really long runtime at 800ma on high using 18650 cells. Btw Luminari thanks for getting back quickly for I dont have to worry anymore about using this light.

Cheers,
Randy


----------



## wmpwi (Feb 15, 2007)

I never do reviews and this is why. I was just getting ready to post what I had writen and noticed I was beaten to the punch. Good for you all because he's more detailed than I and he did a very nice job of reviewing this light. 

Not to hijack the tread, but as long as I've got a couple of shots that aren't too repetitive, here they are:

This would be the DX beneath my new LP-mini from LumaPower. 






The workmanship was really quite nice, but they need some help on the knurling as there were some defects. Visible to the unaided eye, but not too distracting either.





And this would be he business end, again next to the LP-mini





The obligatory beam shots at ISO 80 with the first at F2.7 @ 1/5th (DX on the right, LP on the left)






1 stop under







2 stops under







and something to illustrate the intensity of the center spot






And the low power in your face. (F4 @1/800)






Nice light and nice review luminari :goodjob:


----------



## luminari (Feb 16, 2007)

Thanks Charley! I really like your photos... They look like something out of an Apple ad... I was hoping to get the studio white look on the backgrounds, but I was too lazy


----------



## protein_man (Feb 16, 2007)

I just got my light and put it through its paces, this thing is awesome! It must be regulated pretty good because I put a flat (2.85V) 18650 in it and it drew 1250mA. If it wasn't regulated and used a resistor like other cheap lights it would be pulling maybe half of that.

All in all a great light, even though the reflector is orange peeled it still throws a long way, with plenty of spill. A smooth reflector would be great to have as this thing would be a throw monster.

Just tried this thing on a charged battery, it pulls 1500mA on high and 300mA on low.


----------



## protein_man (Feb 16, 2007)

Took my new toy out for a walk along with my propoly 4aa. This thing even with a stippled refector eats the propoly alive as far as throw is concerned and I use to think the propoly was a throw monster, bring on a smooth reflector for this light!


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 16, 2007)

NO WAY!? The SLPP has been my "throw" light for like forever 
I cant wait till they start shipping these again from DX, Kaidomain seems to have the status on these as "coming soon" forever now...


----------



## The Voice of Reason (Feb 16, 2007)

Looks like incredible value - besides how much can one expect from a 25 buck light? (not that I'm saying I would be happy with a pile of junk, though)

There have to be obvious compromises with a light that costs less than a typical SF lamp assembly.

So, if it is "only" 180 lumens - is no big deal in book :goodjob: 

I can't wait to get mine...


----------



## luminari (Feb 16, 2007)

Yeah the Fenix P1D-CE is still definitely my EDC, but I'm quite happy with this light. Mainly, I'm glad that Kyle at DX was able to convince them to up the amperage to 1200 mA.... the original prototype was only 800 mA iirc.


----------



## Minjin (Feb 16, 2007)

wmpwi, how does the DX compare to the LP-mini in side spill?


----------



## wmpwi (Feb 16, 2007)

Like this w/ the LP on the left and DX on the right.









Minjin said:


> wmpwi, how does the DX compare to the LP-mini in side spill?


----------



## wmpwi (Feb 16, 2007)

And now on to another observation. While trying to do the preceding beam shots, the light went out. I did what most normal people would do. I gave it a few whacks - which didn't help. So pressing the button a bunch seem to give an intermittent success, like 1 time out of 10, but not at full power. When the LED would come on, it was at low power only or at least greatly reduced and then it would wink out after a 1/2 second. 

I ruled out a loose battery and moved on the the switch looking for something loose. It has some type of 2 stage switch, but I know little about this stuff so I just take everything apart and see where it leads me. The photo below was the only thing I noticed, and while it looks a bit sloppy, I would think it should work. I did what I could to clean up the soldering job, but I've kind of lost confidence in it and now waiting to see it fail again. Could that have been the problem? I don't know how this particular resistor is supposed to affect the power to the light. 











Any thoughts?


----------



## Jason ng (Feb 17, 2007)

just wondering will this reflector work for this u2 style light? http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?cPath=19_32&products_id=231


----------



## FlashKat (Feb 17, 2007)

This reflector will not fit the U2 style light, because the diameter is too small. I bought some for replacement in the VINET which it fits. If you are looking for a smooth replacement reflector ask Kyle at www.dealextreme.com to sell you a reflector from the NERO which is the same light with a smooth reflector.


Jason ng said:


> just wondering will this reflector work for this u2 style light? http://www.besthongkong.com/product_info.php?cPath=19_32&products_id=231


----------



## luminari (Feb 18, 2007)

wmpwi said:


> And now on to another observation. While trying to do the preceding beam shots, the light went out. I did what most normal people would do. I gave it a few whacks - which didn't help. So pressing the button a bunch seem to give an intermittent success, like 1 time out of 10, but not at full power. When the LED would come on, it was at low power only or at least greatly reduced and then it would wink out after a 1/2 second.
> ...
> Any thoughts?



Doh! Well I have no idea what that circuit does, but to ask a silly question, did you try charging the 18650 battery completely and trying again? That's exactly how my lights (not this light, but the ones I have that run on a protected RCR123a) behave when the battery's low voltage protection circuit kicks in. It's always a bit surprising to me when it does because the light is bright and then BAM... nothing. First time it happened to me, I thought the light (a P1D-CE) was broken, but all I needed to do was charge the cell.

Dunno, this may not be the issue, but it sounded familiar.


----------



## doc_felixander (Feb 20, 2007)

I've had mine apart as far as possible. 
The current flows through the 100ohm reistor on Low. This would mean that at 3,7V the LED runs at 37mA which would be 0,137W. That seems to be a little low to me, but on the other hand realistic as well, as that little resistor can't take much more than that. 

There IS an O-ring between lens and bezel.
No problems with the switch so far......there's one strange thing, however: once in a while, the light flickers on Low. High is fine. 

Has anyone ever successfully screwed the head off? I'd like to take a look at the regulator and replace those whimpy wires to the LED....but i don't get the head off....


----------



## uk_caver (Feb 20, 2007)

If there was 3V7 across the 100R reistor, there'd be 37mA flowing, but if it is a simple series resistor for the LED, with a nominal 3V7 battery, and an LED that's dropping roughly 3V at low current, there'd only be ~0V7 across the resistor, giving ~7mA.
So, either it is the series resistor for a very low power level, or it does something else.


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 20, 2007)

doc

i think u would need some rubber lining for padding then use a wrench or large pliers.
it worked with the K2 projection light which someone else tried.


----------



## 2xTrinity (Feb 20, 2007)

> I've had mine apart as far as possible.
> The current flows through the 100ohm reistor on Low. This would mean that at 3,7V the LED runs at 37mA which would be 0,137W. That seems to be a little low to me, but on the other hand realistic as well, as that little resistor can't take much more than that.


They claim 1200mA/350mA for high/low. Most of the other lights at DX I've used all have 7-ohm resistors to swtich between >1000/350 mA. It's somewhat weird if that's the only resistor in the tailcap, as that thing would be dimmer than a Photon if run in series with a 100 Ohm resistor.


----------



## berto (Feb 20, 2007)

Does anyone have a m1 cree light to compare to this light.


----------



## doc_felixander (Feb 21, 2007)

thanks for the correction, uk_caver. 

i wrote up a post yesterday but forgot to post it, so here's the short version:

i finally got it apart. you can't screw off the head because there is no 'head', it's one single part. 
star and regulator sit on a threaded brass slug that can be screwed out. i noticed that you can slightly adjust the focus this way. 
the star is screwed AND glued onto the slug. the glue seems to be some kind of white silicone. however, the surface of the slug isn't completely flat, so the thermal contact wasn't optimal in my case. fixed.
the regulator board is potted into the pill with silicone again (the same?), but everything came out in one part.
after removing all of that sticky stuff (it hadn't completely dried yet) i could finally have a look at the regulator.








seems to be a ZETEX based boost design: http://www.zetex.com/3.0/pdf/ZXSC300.pdf

at least it's the reference design, but the startup voltage doesn't match for instance, this might be due to the lousy inductor (correct me if i'm wrong).
this might also explain the rather bad regulation (stated by kyle at dealextreme), although the ZETEX isn't bad basically.

the SMD codes are scratched off, so there's no way i can verify if it is a genuine ZETEX.

Apart from the regulation issue, it DOES limit the current quite well. This current can be set via R1 (which is 20mOhms). Reducing its value to 15mOhms sets the current to ~1,5A.

oh, and it does have an o-ring between bezel and lens. seems to be pretty waterproof, the only weak point might be the switch boot, but there's nothing that couldn't be fixed with some silicone.,

btw: this light doesn't work with 2 rcr123s. i had to fry my emitter to find out....that was before i opened it.


----------



## defusion (Feb 21, 2007)

ohh, this one looks promising.
and it costs next to nothing!

i've already got a cree, but 200 lumen sounds appealing to my ears.


----------



## wmpwi (Feb 21, 2007)

Just an update to my switch problem. I sent an e-mail in reply to *DealExtremes* " How Have We Performed?" e-mail and they got right back to me with "We will take care of it for sure. Please let me know if you have figured out what's wrong with it. Either case, we will send you a free replacement light."

A very good customer service response. Sound like they aim to please.


----------



## Minjin (Feb 21, 2007)

I'm definitely picking up one of these when they get back in stock. I love high end lights but I hate the way a $100 light is beaten out by a $30 light in a years time. This $30 range is great to shop in and when its outdated, you're not out very much...


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*



daveman said:


> This light does NOT look 200 lumens strong to me. Not by a long shot.



Dont forget lumens is based on total light output, while the beamshots posted show a more accurate idea of the lux value in the spot n spill.

A beamshot of a bare XR-E emitter which is is fact putting out actual 200 lumens may look like a night light compared a say a Fenix P1.


----------



## luminari (Feb 23, 2007)

*Re: 200 lumen DealExtreme CREE light compared to P1D-CE and Maxfire*



x2x3x2 said:


> Dont forget lumens is based on total light output, while the beamshots posted show a more accurate idea of the lux value in the spot n spill.
> 
> A beamshot of a bare XR-E emitter which is is fact putting out actual 200 lumens may look like a night light compared a say a Fenix P1.



Thanks, x2x3x2. Yeah, I think DaveMan was going by my initial crappy beamshots which didn't show the light's superior spillbeam brightness compared to a 110 lumen P1D-CE.

I updated the thread a few days ago to have a better spillbeam shot that shows the entire spillbeam (but still with a pooped-out 3.6v RCR123a... my 18650 cells still haven't arrived even though they were ordered just one day after the light.) Others have also posted great beamshots comparing it to lights like the D-Mini. It sounds like most people on this thread who've seen the shots have accepted that it's very bright, especially given that the battery is being sucked at over 1500mA.


----------



## KWillets (Feb 23, 2007)

I got this light and Kai's Venture 700 mA/"105 lumen" light, and this is definitely brighter. I just tried a side-by-side shot, and the spill alone obliterates the Venture's. The spot is also considerably brighter. 

I haven't checked voltages yet, but this matches what I guessed using both lights separately (I hadn't gotten them together in one place until now).


----------



## x2x3x2 (Feb 23, 2007)

darn! reading all these positive comments making me spaze out waitin for mine to arrive!!! LOL!


----------



## Nake (Feb 23, 2007)

I ordered mine a month ago. Today I got a package from dealextreme, no U2 style, just some Ellys and other stuff. Oh well.


----------



## KnOeFz (Feb 24, 2007)

Mine arrived today! 
Yay, I'm very pleased with it. It feels very well build and is very bright and white. Had no problems loading it with my unprotected 18650's, there's also a little spring inside where the positive contact with the battery goes, so no need for magnets or anything. The tail switch feels nice, not to hard or light to press or to deep for my my taste, just good. Without the lanyard it even tailstands. I got some other stuff I ordered at the same time earlier this week but the light got shipped seperately. I can't wait for it to get dark tonight :naughty:


----------



## Nake (Feb 24, 2007)

Got my light today. Not much to add to the excellent thread starter review. I put my Fluke to it and with the batt. voltage at 4.10, it drew 1780mA at the battery, whoa. For the price this is a great light. Think I'll get another one and put a Seoul star in it.

Ran it for 10min. on high and it got fairly warm, but not uncomfortable to hold. With batt. voltage at 3.77V it is drawing 1550mA.


----------



## doc_felixander (Feb 25, 2007)

Putting in a Seoul would be stupid. This reflector is perfect for the Cree....and probably you'd have to sand off quite a bit for the Seoul to rech the focal point, which sits quite high as the Cree sticks in a bit. You won't get better results.
I don't see any point in changing the LED or reflector anyway. 

Strangely, my converter board works well together with a FluPIC. (yes, not a FluPIG....)
I've ordered some Zetex parts and I'm gonna rebuild the board with these parts (easy as pie) and a better inductor. Ideally, this will provide decent regulation.
If it still works withe the FluPIC - great. I havent't seen any boards yet that do. 
My 2-stage switch was defective anyway, and the FluPIC is a great little device.


----------



## Nake (Feb 25, 2007)

doc_felixander said:


> Putting in a Seoul would be stupid. This reflector is perfect for the Cree....and probably you'd have to sand off quite a bit for the Seoul to rech the focal point, which sits quite high as the Cree sticks in a bit. You won't get better results.
> I don't see any point in changing the LED or reflector anyway.


 

The point is experimenting with my hobby. I don't dislike the light from a Cree, but like that from a Seoul better.The Seoul star I have is .008" thicker than the Cree star. If necessary a little sanding on the star bottom would make them equal. The Seoul dome will sit higher up into the reflector than the Cree because of its design. I've had Crees with Luxeon reflectors work just fine, so a Seoul might work with a Cree reflector. And if it doesn't work, so what, I can afford to trash it. So for me it isn't a "stupid" idea.


----------



## doc_felixander (Feb 25, 2007)

sorry, didn't want to insult you. 
all i'm saying is that the beam won't get any better and you'll have to do some work at the reflector. maybe you're lucky and the SSC's lower beam profile gives additional throw. 
you're right about the price, of course. 

i assume you have the lunar edition...?


----------



## Nake (Feb 25, 2007)

I do think mine is regulated. I ordered it 1/24. That and the results of my test today. Started with a fresh batt. at 4.08V, that pulled 1.7A at the cap. After 30 min. it was pulling 1.6A at 3.7V. I checked some temps with a heat gun. The cap was 45C, body 43C, and cap 42C, even heat distribution. I took the reflector out while still running and aimed the gun in there, 65C. After 60min. temps were the same, batt. read 3.6V and 1.6A. At 75 min. 3.5V and 1.5A. At 85min. 3.5V and 1.5A. Died at 90min. Tried checking the batt., nothing. Put a new batt. in to check light, still ticking. It did seem to get a little dimmer after 60min., but that was just eyeballing it. Was using a protected 2200mAh Tenergy.


----------



## InfidelCastro (Feb 25, 2007)

It looks interesting, but I don't like that you have to click it three times to turn it off and on.


----------



## Byggeren (Feb 26, 2007)

My C0D CE with freshly charged 10440 is easily outshined by this light, and that is with the DX light on batteries used approximately 10 minutes. There is a clear advantage to the DX light both ceiling bounce and white wall comparison. My DX light is supposed to be the regulated version. Assuming my C0D CE has an output of 140-150 lumens as indicated in other tests with 10440, I have no problem believing this light puts out 200 lumens.

The build quality is very nice, it’s surprisingly heavy built, which I think is a good thing for heat distribution. The size is smaller than I expected looking at the images. The threads on the tail cap are smooth as silk, just the opposite of the gritty threads on the JETBeam C-LE. 

The light output on low is very similar to the Elly with the CREE mod, the Elly running on NiMH batteries. In other words not very low, but still a lot lower than high 

This weekend we stayed at a cabin in the mountains, and I got the opportunity to test the light in the snow. On high the hotspot is blindingly bright, so much that you have to be careful not to ruin your night vision completely, you have to let the spill beam do the close work. Actually when walking in snow it is better to use low mode, and just use the high mode for distant viewing. 

I am very pleased with this light


----------



## cmaylodm (Feb 26, 2007)

What is the diameter of the reflector? I think this light modded with a Seoul and a new reflector would be awesome!


----------



## doc_felixander (Feb 26, 2007)

diameter at the upper edge is 35mm (1 3/8"), length is 23mm. however there is a lip on the upper edge and a matching groove in the head (so it doesnt't push against the emitter), this means the head gets a bit tighter after 2 or 3 mm.

i already considered putting in a Striker optics which has the same diameter.


----------



## emitter (Feb 26, 2007)

Thanks for the very informative and to the point reviews from Luminari, wmpwi and doc_felixander. You 'made me' order one and the dsd charger, already have a bunch of cells to use. I promise lux measurements with an Extech 401036 unless someone beats me to it. I've tinkered so long fitting a lux iii to a 18650, this is too cheap to pass on. 

(OT: great seeing ppl from all over here. I know why cmaylodm needs a light, cause I'm from CNY too and the sun never shines here.) 

Regarding total lumens measurement, wouldn't it be simple as recording lux readings from the center outwards at a constant radius to the edge of the spill, then integrating the data? I'm not there yet with the math, but I'm slow. Could measure in 'square degrees' then convert to Sr. Doable? I should do a search. 

I should have ordered 2, one to open up and modify...


----------



## LightScene (Feb 26, 2007)

How is the throw compared to a D-Mini/LP-Mini? 
From the beam shots it looks like the LP-Mini had a brighter hot spot?


----------



## itch808 (Feb 26, 2007)

I didn't see it mentioned anywhere here or on DX, but will Ultrafire 2400mah protected cells fit? Or are there issues with their size?


----------



## Nake (Feb 26, 2007)

itch808 said:


> I didn't see it mentioned anywhere here or on DX, but will Ultrafire 2400mah protected cells fit? Or are there issues with their size?


 
The tube ID is 19.5mm, I doubt there'll be a problem.


----------



## ksonger (Feb 26, 2007)

oh well, looks like i am hooked by this light. THis all started when i tried to show off a K2 LED light to my sons who are SF fans. One of my son's took me aside and linked me to a cree light and told me to keep looking as K2's were not going to take over the world! 

ken


----------



## Nake (Feb 26, 2007)

I have a question. I put two CR123s in the light and just for a second touched my MM leads to it. It jumped to over 3A. What does that say about the drive in this light?


----------



## doc_felixander (Feb 26, 2007)

that it's not made for 2 cr123s, sadly. i tried the same with rechargeable 123s and fried the emitter.
i mean, i's just a simple boost converter, no buck, and somehow the current limiter freaks out at higher voltages.


----------



## KWillets (Feb 26, 2007)

Nake said:


> The tube ID is 19.5mm, I doubt there'll be a problem.



I use the protected cell in it; it's fine.


----------



## Byggeren (Feb 27, 2007)

itch808 said:


> I didn't see it mentioned anywhere here or on DX, but will Ultrafire 2400mah protected cells fit? Or are there issues with their size?



That’s the battery type I use, no issues at all.


----------



## cacer (Feb 27, 2007)

hi,
i got this light some days ago and use it with the "prtotected 2400 mah ultrafire" 18650 cell.(the cell fits perfectly)

but:

when i put in the fresh charged cell (charged with the ultrafire charger) the light starts blinking(perhaps switching to low for some milli seconds) on high after less than 1 minute .
the blinking starts slow and get faster every second.
when i change to low output no blinking appears.
when i unscrew the tailcap some threads the bliking stopps for some seconds and sometimes comes back.

but when the tailcap is not thightend the contact between cap and body is not stable and when i touch (pull or wobble) the cap , the light flickers or goes out and on.

after the cell drained down a bit(5-10 minutes) i can screw the cap all the way thight and got no blinking or flickering at all.
nearly at the same brightness(by the eye) till at the end the under voltage protection kicks in and the light goes out.

somebody recognized this too?

i mailed DX(how have we performed), but no response.

cacer


----------



## itch808 (Feb 27, 2007)

Byggeren said:


> That’s the battery type I use, no issues at all.



Thanks guys, but cacer's post has me wondering if there are any issues with it again. I ordered mine, I'll see what happens when I get it....


----------



## LGCubana (Feb 27, 2007)

cacer said:


> ...when i put in the fresh charged cell (charged with the ultrafire charger) the light starts blinking(perhaps switching to low for some milli seconds) on high after less than 1 minute .
> the blinking starts slow and get faster every second.
> when i change to low output no blinking appears.
> when i unscrew the tailcap some threads the bliking stopps for some seconds and sometimes comes back.
> ...


I'm guessing that you need to clean the threads; for better contact.
---
I was going to add one to my DX order today. But Kyle's response on 2/25/07 threw me. He says that the runtime chart represents the (new) 1200mAh, regulated version.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1285


----------



## cacer (Feb 28, 2007)

LGCubana said:


> I'm guessing that you need to clean the threads; for better contact.
> ---
> I was going to add one to my DX order today. But Kyle's response on 2/25/07 threw me. He says that the runtime chart represents the (new) 1200mAh, regulated version.
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1285



i think he was talking about the old (800mah) regulated version? 
his answers often got room left for interpretation 

back to my problem:

all threads were cleaned by me before , but i did it again (with no result).

is it possible that this behave is caused by the cell ?
perhaps these ultrafire protected cell is too long, so that it will be compressed too much when tailcap is fully screwed on?or the current draw is too much??

this is my only 18650 cell ,so i will try an fresh charged rcr123 with spacer ...

i will report!
cacer


----------



## doc_felixander (Feb 28, 2007)

i don't think that the cell is too long. there's more than enough space in the barrel.
maybe the current is too high, i have had similar experiences when tinkering around with different inductors. i guess at some point the ic's thermal protection kicks in and causes the blinking (no/too narrow hysteresis or current reduction??)


----------



## KnOeFz (Feb 28, 2007)

cacer said:


> ...
> perhaps these ultrafire protected cell is too long, so that it will be compressed too much when tailcap is fully screwed on?or the current draw is too much??



You could easily check this by not screwing the tailcap on very tight? 

If I remember correctly when this light was first on the DX website Kyle mentioned that with the protected 18650 you couldn't screw the tailcap on all the way... but I can't seem to find that line of text anymore. Maybe someone else remembers it too?


----------



## KnOeFz (Feb 28, 2007)

Hmmm... after using it a couple of days mine now shuts of after about 2 minutes on high The problem doesn't seem to appear on low.

I'll re-apply some thermal compound between the star and the heatsink to see if that solves the problem. I took it apart and took some pics of the inside, don't remember seeing pics of this yet.







Note the thick rubber o-ring










About the head and body, I do think the head is screwed on. Right in front of the silver colored threading there's also threading in the black annodised part. Not sure though as I can't get it loose.


----------



## cacer (Feb 28, 2007)

when i unsrew the tailcap , so that only one thread is used and lay the light on the table the blinking do NOT come.
the more i thighten the cap the faster the bliking apears.

after ca20 min of runtime i can can srew the cap all the way on without blinking.

i tryed a aw 14500 fully charged with spacer without any problems !!

so i think the ultrafire cell is defective .

next week i get some pilas ... i will try it with them.



so i think the light is ok!!!



i also remember the line in the describtion of the first run of this light:
18650 are too long.
but it could bee that this line was written in a describtion of an other light?

thanks for your help.
i will be away for some days and will post again after the work.

cacer


----------



## timcodes (Mar 1, 2007)

luminari said:


> Not that the vendors read these reviews  but we can always hope...
> 
> *Conclusion...
> *Wow, I didn't expect this light to kick so much butt. Given that it cost me $26.95 including shipping, or roughly the price of one P61 replacement bulb, I wasn't sure what to expect.
> ...



Doesn't the p1d-ce run brighter on the rcr123 3.6V Please try to compare beamshots with it instead. I have a 3.0V rcr cell and it's not as bright.

But anyone compared the overall output on the lightbox?


----------



## luminari (Mar 1, 2007)

No. Timcodes, The P1D-CE is pretty much the same level with all cell types on max once it goes into regulation. UnknownVT has done some great beamshots with all battery types compared on the P1D-CE (and pretty much every other light!)


----------



## itch808 (Mar 1, 2007)

For those who haven't already ordered one, DX just lowered their price a bit.


----------



## x2x3x2 (Mar 1, 2007)

its the same, just that now the listed price is without same free shipping.
click spice+shipping and it turns out about the same.


----------



## KnOeFz (Mar 2, 2007)

grrrr... I re-applied some silicone paste between the start and the brass housing of the lightengine but still have troubles. 

I unsoldered the lightengine and to my surprise it is totally covered with silicone paste  I did read doc_felixander's post #65 where he shows the light engine but didn't expect it to be covered like this:







I think this is causing themal problems in the driver itself. Anyone has a clue on how to fix this? 

I'll also contact Kyle from DealExtreme about what to do befor I try to remove the silicone like doc_felixander did.


----------



## doc_felixander (Mar 2, 2007)

yeah, it's quite a surprise. 
i really wonder what this circuit really does apart from limiting the current. from what i've measured, i don't think it's using a mosfet, and all its boost mode seems to do is compensating the voltage drop across the transistor. 
simply removing the silicone will even make the thermal issue worse, and re-potting with epoxy *might* help but will be irreversible. 

The easiest solution will be using a BB Nexgen or a Madmax, but after shipping you'll pay as much as you payed for the light itself.
i decided to go with a TPS63000 and build my own converter (which will be PWMed by a FluPIC, so no additional losses across the FluPIC)... 

in addition, i've noticed that there's no real visible difference between 800mA and 1,2A, at least not in the close range. i haven't been able to compare throw due to the lack of really dark places around here. 
might be my emitter's fault as well, i've had it on my kitchen stove for reflow soldering twice, maybe it wasn't too good for the phosphor.

your guys' thermal issues are really a shame, because in my opinion it works great for its price (despite its bad regulation), but having to invest 20 bucks for it to work in the first place is something to think about twice, you could get a D-mini for the same money.


----------



## timcodes (Mar 2, 2007)

Hi guys,


Also isn't the maximum current on the cree is supposed to be 1.0 A? Isn't this a bit overdrive the xr-e lamp? 

What's the overall output? Compare this to a p1d-ce or d-mini etc?

Thx


----------



## rantanplan (Mar 2, 2007)

Got mine today and I´m happy so far.

Excellent workmanship ... you could easily forget, that it is a "cheap chinese one". Nice beam pattern in the distance, very bright too. Kicks my L2D CE´s *** easily  ...

The term "regulation" may be a bit exaggerated, if you compare it to common solutions that are called regulated. A fresh 18650 (4.2V open) resulted in 1.15A, a more discharged one (3.8V open) 650mA. Not what I´m count as a regulated behaviour. The biggest flaw in my opinion is its high weight and the clickie which requires more pressure than usual.

But for the price it´s a good light. Get it together with 2 cells and reliable charge and you have a nice package.


----------



## Gunner12 (Mar 5, 2007)

This light is now $24.49 US on DX.
I'm getting one
Great reviews luminari and wmpwi:goodjob:


----------



## Lobo (Mar 5, 2007)

rantanplan said:


> Excellent workmanship ... you could easily forget, that it is a "cheap chinese one". Nice beam pattern in the distance, very bright too. Kicks my L2D CE´s *** easily  ...


 
Say it aint so! I've pondering for weeks now which light to get, decided that the L2D CE is my best choice, and now you're telling me this light kicks it's ***! And I just realised that I can get the U2-clone with charger and battery for 37USD shipped! Damn you freedom of choice!


----------



## emitter (Mar 6, 2007)

For those whom are ordering now, please be aware that shipping at DX is slow right now. I ordered 9 days ago and it still hasn't gone through. They did send an email notification to me, so they are aware of the problem. I ordered a U2 copy, a DSD charger, and those little ear bud headphones. I'm not happy the price dropped while I'm waiting. 
Lobo- I'd go for the L2D CE You know it will ship, you know they will cover the warrantee (but you won't need it), slim and pocketable, has the output selection, and takes AA's. Go for it!

*edit* I contacted DX and they both made good on the price drop and also shipped my stuff promptly after my email.


----------



## matrixshaman (Mar 6, 2007)

emitter said:


> For those whom are ordering now, please be aware that shipping at DX is slow right now. I ordered 9 days ago and it still hasn't gone through. They did send an email notification to me, so they are aware of the problem. I ordered a U2 copy, a DSD charger, and those little ear bud headphones. I'm not happy the price dropped while I'm waiting.
> Lobo- I'd go for the L2D CE You know it will ship, you know they will cover the warrantee (but you won't need it), slim and pocketable, has the output selection, and takes AA's. Go for it!


I believe the price drop is without shipping whereas the price before included shipping - I could be wrong but I believe that is what was done recently.


----------



## ksonger (Mar 6, 2007)

nope, free shipping, $24.99 w/free ship i bought mine after it went up to $28 after the lunar new year and it still has not shipped although there has been some confusion(my fault) with the ship to addy.

ken


----------



## cacer (Mar 8, 2007)

hi,

i now tryed a pila 600P without any problems!
no blinking or flickering!

only one thing is not gone : when i first switch the light on ,the brightness is a little bit low for some milliseconds .


so i got a crappy ultrafire 18650, or do all protected ultrafire cells behave like that?

all in all, a great light for the money!

cacer


----------



## KnOeFz (Mar 9, 2007)

After sanding and polishing the brass surface and star bottom, carefully applying fresh thermal compound my issues seem to be in the past. I'm happy again! Love this light


----------



## berto (Mar 9, 2007)

They have a new light at dx looks exactly like the u2 style.


----------



## oBMTo (Mar 11, 2007)

I'm still confused, can I use 2 RCR123a batteries instead of 1 18650? I want this light but can't afford to buy more batteries and a new charger


----------



## Byggeren (Mar 11, 2007)

oBMTo said:


> I'm still confused, can I use 2 RCR123a batteries instead of 1 18650? ....



No


----------



## doc_felixander (Mar 11, 2007)

I'm getting confused, too. There are three different U2-style flashlights now, and the one we're talking about here (EastwardYJ) comes in two further different versions (regulated and unregulated).

Is there anyone who has the unregulated version? 
Can you tell us anything about the innards? Is there at least a resistor? 
Would be interesting if there is ANYTHING on the battery contact PCB......


----------



## refractrfractal (Mar 12, 2007)

According to comments Kyle has posted, the EastwardYJ lights cannot take the higher voltage of 2 batteries. He is asking them to work on it but implied that not all factories he works with are equipped/experienced to do voltage reduction boards.

I have the reg'd and it is cool, bright, solidly built as most comments say. the switch is firm but no problem for me. I'm trying to figure out how to rig/mangle a brinkman maxfire true clickie to plug securely into the back of this light. Anybody have ideas on this?

On the new charger issue, I would think that someone willing to tinker could rig up a dummy cr123a-sized ... object, that had a short wire sprouting from each end which could be electrical-taped to the longer 18650. Those with more experience feel free to weigh in on the pros/cons of such hijinx, which I have not tried.


----------



## xiaowenzu (Mar 14, 2007)

May I ask where is this light made in? Country of origin or company is important to me.


----------



## doc_felixander (Mar 14, 2007)

China. Their website says :
A1105, FENGYINGGE, YIFENG CITY PLAZA, DONGCHENG DISTRICT, DONGGUAN CITY, CHINA

and they have an office in HK.


----------



## luminari (Mar 14, 2007)

oBMTo said:


> I'm still confused, can I use 2 RCR123a batteries instead of 1 18650? I want this light but can't afford to buy more batteries and a new charger



I mentioned in the review that you can use one RCR123a and a spacer cell if you are really that strapped for cash (the Guard 18650 is only $6 and you can almost always rig up your existing 3.7v li-ion charger to charge larger cells)

I'd suggest using protected RCR123a's as they will be drained pretty hard.


----------



## itch808 (Mar 15, 2007)

I'm STILL WAITING for mine, placed order about a month ago. Anyone else get theirs yet?


----------



## beefy6969 (Mar 15, 2007)

itch808 said:


> I'm STILL WAITING for mine, placed order about a month ago. Anyone else get theirs yet?


 
Yea, me too. It's been a month and still on back order. Dont understand why the DX website still shows available when it is not.


----------



## refractrfractal (Mar 15, 2007)

I ordered mine 2/5 and it finally came a couple of weeks ago, I don't remember the exact date. Long after the other part of my order. It sounded like it had something to do with the Chinese NY shutdown last month, and possibly some quality control issues (that last is more speculative, as Kyle wasn't specific about which of his list of possible delays was the culprit).


----------



## atm (Mar 16, 2007)

Ordered on the 26th of Feb, received a couple of days ago, sent back for warranty claim today...

Replies to my emails regarding the problem with the light were quick and very helpful. I should end up with a replacement at no cost to me, except time.


----------



## Nake (Mar 16, 2007)

atm said:


> Ordered on the 26th of Feb, received a couple of days ago, sent back for warranty claim today...
> 
> Replies to my emails regarding the problem with the light were quick and very helpful. I should end up with a replacement at no cost to me, except time.


 
It would be nice if you shared with us, a lot of whom also own the light, what your problem was.


----------



## itch808 (Mar 16, 2007)

beefy6969 said:


> Yea, me too. It's been a month and still on back order. Dont understand why the DX website still shows available when it is not.



I think Kyle's too busy posting up new flashlights...lol...


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 16, 2007)

Received mine 2 days ago from DX (ordered after lunar year model). Nice and bright - on Hi with a AW18650 protected, I get ~20% more overall output compared to my P1DCE, according to my home-made lightbox/lightmeter (note that throw was only increased ~10%, likely due to the textured reflector). That would suggest ~130-135 lumens, given estimates for the Fenix reported here.

Unfortunately, two problems - light started flickering ~15 mins into a runtime test (under a cooling fan). Didn't seem to be heat-related, so I cleaned the contacts, threads, etc., and tried another 18650 battery. Success, it seemed - everything went fine with no flickering until ~45 mins into the run, when the light suddenly shut off. There was still plenty of juice left in the 18650, but the tailcap would no longer "click" in response to pressure. Disassembled the switch, and the problem is clearly with the clicker (attached to circuit board/spring) - it no longer clicks, just a firm squish when you press on it.  

Contacted DX yesterday afternoon, and got a reply back that night that a replacement tailcap is in the mail to me. :goodjob: 

Good customer service, but a bit worrisome about the switch construction.


----------



## emitter (Mar 16, 2007)

itch808 said:


> I'm STILL WAITING for mine, placed order about a month ago. Anyone else get theirs yet?



just received my charger (the dsd one) but not the 1285 light. Once they shipped it got here pretty quick, 9 days for 200 deg longitude travel. I ordered Feb 28 so the first shipment wasnt too delayed. The website tracking page has the step counter set back to 'getting ready for shipment' so I guess they do have them. Meanwhile I'll charge my 5 whimpy 1800 mAh sony's. 

/\/


----------



## balazer (Mar 23, 2007)

How does this light behave when the battery voltage falls below 2.8? 

I'd be concerned that if this light has a boost circuit, using unprotected li-ion cells the light could drain the battery below 2.8 V without seeing a noticeable drop in light output. That would of course destroy the cell.


----------



## brightnorm (Mar 26, 2007)

Ceiling bounce comparisons with lamps of known lumens (P91) reveal that the DealExtreme is noticeably less than 200 lumens, but still impressively bright.

Brightnorm


----------



## emitter (Mar 28, 2007)

balazer said:


> How does this light behave when the battery voltage falls below 2.8?



I was wondering the same but their protected cells are so cheap just buy one with the light. Or get protection modules here http://batteryjunction.com/prcimopfor3l.html but wiring will be a pain. 
If I ever actually *get* my shipment which took a week from being posted in hong kong to leaving hong kong, I'll test the module with a couple 1.2v nimhs to see what it does at 2.4, I'm guessing they'll get sucked dry. 

The runtime graph at www.lightreviews.info indicates it hangs on instead of switching off at low Vin so your concern is justified. x2x3x2 did a great review. It would be nice to replace the circuit with a current regulator with a 2.8v switchoff, but that adds cost so might as well buy the protected cell. 

/\/


----------



## Art Vandelay (Mar 28, 2007)

Thanks for the tip. I saw some good reviews at www.lightreviews.info . That's a new site for me.



emitter said:


> I was wondering the same but their protected cells are so cheap just buy one with the light. Or get protection modules here http://batteryjunction.com/prcimopfor3l.html but wiring will be a pain.
> If I ever actually *get* my shipment which took a week from being posted in hong kong to leaving hong kong, I'll test the module with a couple 1.2v nimhs to see what it does at 2.4, I'm guessing they'll get sucked dry.
> 
> The runtime graph at www.lightreviews.info indicates it hangs on instead of switching off at low Vin so your concern is justified. x2x3x2 did a great review. It would be nice to replace the circuit with a current regulator with a 2.8v switchoff, but that adds cost so might as well buy the protected cell.
> ...


----------



## x2x3x2 (Mar 28, 2007)

Hi emitter, im glad u find my review usefull 

Actually something to take note, protected cells will also be damaged as i was using one of AW's protected cells for the runtime test.

The reason (direct from AW) is that his protected cells will only cut off at 2.8 when there is moderate current drain from the cell. However, this U2 style light continues to drain a low amount of current once output reaches 10%.

The AW protected cell i used continued to run even when cell voltage dropped to 2.5V which is not good. Running 18650 cells below 2.8V will damage it causing signifigantly reduced lifespan and capacity.


----------



## itch808 (Mar 29, 2007)

I FINALLY received my light and it looks great! The quality was much greater than I had expected.

But I was looking to put some thermal paste under the cree star as recommended by x2x3x2, except for the life of me I cannot unscrew the head from the body. Only the bezel seems to unscrew. Am I missing something here or is this normal? How have others unscrewed theirs?


----------



## balazer (Mar 29, 2007)

x2x3x2 said:


> The AW protected cell i used continued to run even when cell voltage dropped to 2.5V which is not good. Running 18650 cells below 2.8V will damage it causing signifigantly reduced lifespan and capacity.


Do you recall how bright the light was at 2.5 or 2.8 V? 

I know that the light will drain a cell below 2.8 V, but if the light is significantly dimmer when doing so, it's not a problem because I'll know to turn it off.


----------



## Jefff (Mar 29, 2007)

I am torn between this one or the C2 light they offer.. I read on one post on the DX site that stated the best thrower they offer was the C2 but no low mode.. but I could live with out low to get the best brightest throw monster.. Any thoughts?


----------



## beefy6969 (Mar 29, 2007)

Jefff said:


> I am torn between this one or the C2 light they offer.. I read on one post on the DX site that stated the best thrower they offer was the C2 but no low mode.. but I could live with out low to get the best brightest throw monster.. Any thoughts?


 
FYI, 
Ultrafire C2 has a much better clicker. The body can barely slide in a protected 18650 battery. As a matter of fact, the plastic on my 18650 is all scatched up. And i bought this battery from DX too.


U2 style is beefier, heavier and taller. The clicker sucks *** though. Not sure if something is wrong with mine but i have to use two hands to click the light on. Forget about using one thumb/one hand.


----------



## Nake (Mar 29, 2007)

beefy6969 said:


> The clicker sucks *** though. Not sure if something is wrong with mine but i have to use two hands to click the light on. Forget about using one thumb/one hand.


 
It's not just yours. I have bought three and the clicker is like you say. I find it easier to engage if I hold the light with the head on the heel of my hand and use my index finger.


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 29, 2007)

deleted, duplicate post


----------



## selfbuilt (Mar 29, 2007)

Jefff said:


> I am torn between this one or the C2 light they offer.. I read on one post on the DX site that stated the best thrower they offer was the C2 but no low mode.. but I could live with out low to get the best brightest throw monster.. Any thoughts?


If you are after throw, the SSC P4 light at DX (JYE "wide") is a better bet:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1341

I have both, and measured the throw on the SSC light to be ~25% more than the U2-style cree. However, the cree has a much brighter sidespill, and overall output is nearly 30% more than the JYE light (using my home made milk carton lightbox). Sorry, I can't directly compare the beams since my U2-cree is out of commission waiting for tailcap clickie replacement.

Note that the JYE light only uses a T-bin SSC, so swaping a U-bin in there should increase it's output somewhat. I plan to do just that when I get the chance - should make it the best thrower of my collection.

The head of the JYE light is wider, but overall dimensions and weight are similar.  It also has a two-stage switch and takes only 18650 batteries.


----------



## Jefff (Mar 29, 2007)

Well .. Thank you guys for the response.. I went with the C2 light and ultrafire charger and 2 2400mah 18650's from they're site after hearing from them in a email that this was the best thrower they offer., I hope I don't get it and wish I had went with the U2 version. ahh Heck even if I do for the price I could get it as well.. How does the CPF motto go.. "When in doubt buy em both"! :lolsign: 
For low priced lights and all the reviews on them I am sure they can't be that bad of a decision to purchase and try out.


----------



## berto (Mar 29, 2007)

yes the c2 is the best led light for throw on the dx website but to get full brightness you need 2 3.6v 123's . this light is really nice and I like the single mode clickie really simple and fun.


----------



## itch808 (Mar 29, 2007)

I regret not ordering more than one of the U2-style EastwardYJs, they would've made excellent presents. The sidespill makes it much more useful than throw only lights.


----------



## luminari (Mar 30, 2007)

itch808 said:


> I FINALLY received my light and it looks great! The quality was much greater than I had expected.
> 
> But I was looking to put some thermal paste under the cree star as recommended by x2x3x2, except for the life of me I cannot unscrew the head from the body. Only the bezel seems to unscrew. Am I missing something here or is this normal? How have others unscrewed theirs?



Hey Itch, yeah, it appears the body is epoxied to the head... you can only get to the Cree star from the bezel.

I opened mine up a few nights ago to smear on some Arctic Alumina (non-adhesive).

Unscrew the bezel, look out for the lens falling out. Drop out the metal reflector, and have a look at the star. There should be 2 screws holding it in.

Unscrew those 2 screws, and then try to pry up the star. Be careful not to rip any of the lines on the top of the star, nor damage, the wires soldered to it.

I found that twisting the star a bit counterclockwise and clockwise loosened it up. Turns out they had some very sticky white thermal paste attaching the star to the copper/brass heatsink. In my light, it only covered the very middle of the star, so I applied a bunch more Arctic Alumina. Squish it down and screw the two screws back in. You want to make sure there is as much metal-to-metal contact as possible, with the new thermal paste just filling the tiny gaps. At this point, you can turn it on and check out the crazy spill 

After the thermal paste "mod", my light seems to warm faster on the outside, which is a good thing. Either way, it was nice to see the innards firsthand... I think this light will make an easy future LED host since it's using a star.


----------



## Nake (Mar 30, 2007)

It's a lot easier to work on it if you screw the brass/copper pill out of the body with a pair of needle nose pliers.


----------



## x2x3x2 (Mar 30, 2007)

Hi jeff, when u notice the light output drops to about 25% will be a good point to swap out a new battery.

itch808, like wat Nake said, that would be the easiest and less messy way to apply the thermal paste.


----------



## emitter (Mar 30, 2007)

Nake said:


> It's a lot easier to work on it if you screw the brass/copper pill out of the body with a pair of needle nose pliers.



specifically, put the needlenose pliers tips into the unused notches in the cree board, using the board to twist the copper pill out. -counterclockwise- A safer way might be to take the screws out and try to get the plier tips into the screw holes so no torque would be on the cree board, but the holes might be too small. I wouldn't know, because I *still* don't have my light yet. Ordered Feb 25. 
/\/


----------



## Nake (Mar 30, 2007)

I grabbed the edges of the pill with the pliers to break it loose, then used the notches in the star to unscrew the rest of the way.


----------



## itch808 (Mar 30, 2007)

Since no one had responded the other day I just kept looking at it and finally figured it out. Unscrewed the pill from the bezel end, put some paste under, and the flashlight now gets nice and toasty after being on for a while. Measured to be around 95F


----------



## StefanFS (Mar 31, 2007)

I received mine yesterday after an exceptional waiting period. Mine seems to be the latest iteration of this light. I think DX had some words with the manufacturer. Mine has a nice firm clicker, not too hard. The reflector is perfectly centered around the led, not like the one reviewed on www.lightreviews.info. Still no thermal paste under the star and I had to change the screws holding the star. The screws were too small and didn't hold it down properly. The wires are soldered only to the star contact pads, no connection with one of the screws like the previous ones.

The beam is perfect. Total output in my lightbox setup with protected Ultrafire 2400 mAh: On high *9100* Lux, on low *1300 Lux.* Throw on high *~5000 Lux.* Total output is very good. 
Stefan


----------



## Jefff (Mar 31, 2007)

Well since I placed my order for the C2. I thought what the heck I would try the U2 style light out as well .. and they are out of stock.. .. anyone know where another supplier would be that might have them in stock? 
Thanks


----------



## emitter (Apr 2, 2007)

got mine yesterday. An extech meter measured only ~3400 lux @ 1m. Supposda be calibrated by NIST, but maybe there's spectrographic error. A propoly 3C measured 1200 so i think somethings up with the *newly purchased* meter. Definitely over 100 lumens by room bounce and gotta be higher than 6000 lux by comparason to known others, but I'd believe Stefan's 5000 lux. 
Oh well, hooked on lumens again and cree/ssc arethe new stronger drugs. Goodbye mag dropins hello terralux ministar5. 
/\/


----------



## Gunner12 (Apr 3, 2007)

I got mine today, It feels really good in the hand but the clicke's travel is a little to long and a little too stiff. It's really bright and was smaller then I thought. I placed a AA with a adapter that I made and it lit up! Both modes were there but low was very low and high seemed like the same as low with 18650 batteries.
The emitter has no thermal paste, I'll have to get some under there.
I'm waiting till dark to see how well this thing throws.
Mine shipped on the 28th last month and I got it today.


----------



## txmatt (Apr 3, 2007)

Got my light today as well... it actually arrived yesterday but I had to go to the post office to pick it up (ordered 3/10, arrived 4/2).

I'm pretty impressed. I love the size and weight. As mentioned above, very comfortable in hand. The output is great. Compared to the L2D CE on max/turbo, the YJ has a smaller, brighter hotspot and smoother, brighter, and significantly larger spill beam. I don't mind the stiffness of the clickie but a couple times mine has been a bit flaky where instead of progressing to the next level the light shuts off. This evening I remembered the lack of heat sink compound so I performed some minor surgery. As is called for in surgery, hemostats worked perfectly to unscrew the pill by using the notches in the star. Maybe a 5 minute job to disassemble, "grease", and reassemble.

I may have to order another.


----------



## europium (Apr 5, 2007)

I got my light a few days ago as well. 

PROS: 
* Price. 
* Centered LED in reflector puts out a nicely shaped beam. 
* Bright output on high. 
* Low level still bright enough to be useful outdoors--which is what I bought it for--(others might prefer a lower low), and is not too bright to use indoors if necessary. 
* Nice sequence: Off -> High -> Low -> Off 
* Nicely textured rubber cap on the clicky so my thumb does not slip. 
* Clicky is firm, and makes a clearly audible clicking sound. 
* Tail stands. 
* My favorite color: Black.  
* Appears durably made: smooth threads, thick aluminum with no burrs, aggressive knurling. 
* Tint appears reasonably white (a little on the green side compared to some other LED lights I have; but I prefer warmer tints for outdoors and cooler tints for indoors). 
* Price. 

CONS: 
* Heavier than it needs to be. 
* Useless U2-style ring underneath head makes it harder to hold for someone with small hands (like me, but those with larger hands might find the light easier to grip because of this). 
* Distance the clicky must travel to turn the light on is longer than it should be, this means I need to use the tip of my thumb to turn it on. 
* Easy to forget about the low mode when using it steadily for a while on high, and I am sort of surprised that after another click the light goes to low mode and is not yet off. :-} 


Overall, _very_ good value for the money. 

Eu


----------



## LEDite (Apr 28, 2007)

This is a great LED light,

but mine did not appear to be regulated :






Photo from CPF review I did:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1950912#post1950912

Larry Cobb


----------



## Minjin (Apr 28, 2007)

LEDite said:


> This is a great LED light,
> 
> but it is not regulated :
> 
> Larry Cobb



If it was direct drive, it would not run on a single AA as has been reported. Did you read the rest of that thread?


----------



## ed9957 (Apr 28, 2007)

I have a couple of of the U2 style. I prefer Eastward Version, much brighter than the slimmer version. It is an amzing thrower, the other night I was using it to light up the tree line across a soccer field. It "just" out throws my Sure 6P with a DX cree drop in. My only wish is that it would have a tactical momentary switch and a then rotate the tail cap for low. Great light...


Ed


----------



## abinok (May 5, 2007)

anybody know if this will take a surefire tailcap?


----------



## abinok (May 5, 2007)

anybody know if this will take a surefire tailcap?


----------

