# Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with Beamshots and OTF numbers)



## ti-force (Jun 5, 2010)

**BEAMSHOTS*:* To see beamshots of different Quark lights click here. I would've posted them in this thread, but there are already so many images in this thread.


I’ve been tossing the idea of a 4sevens Quark review around in my head for a while now, but some really great Quark reviews already exist, so my plan is to point out some things that may not have been mentioned in those great reviews. I hope this will help a lot of members that have certain questions about these lights. I’ll mostly be discussing the “lego” or modular capabilities of these lights, but I’ll also include some beamshots as soon as the weather cooperates. Anyway, I believe these lights were designed to lego because it cuts production costs by allowing the same part to be used for multiple lights. This saves time and money, but this also works out great for the consumer as well; we have the option to customize these lights to our liking by switching heads, tail caps, bodies and even switches.

I’ll go into detail about these parts and some of their differences throughout this thread. I’ve taken pictures of most of the different combinations with these lights and I’ve included just about every combination that can be made, but unfortunately I don’t have every type of Quark made, so some of the models couldn’t be included. The models that are *not* included in this thread (yet) are as follows: Quark AA-2 (non-Turbo), Quark 18650 body, Quark RGB and the Quark MiNi.


Let me start things off with some OTF (out the front) lumens readings of my lights. I have a homemade 16" integrating sphere like MrGman had, and like Bigchelis still has (only he's using a 24" sphere now). MrGman was kind enough to share his time and knowledge helping me get my sphere set up and accurate, so I'd like to thank him for that.

Probably the first thing some of you will notice is how my spreadsheets look like the spreadsheets that Bigchelis uses in his thread, well that's because they are the same except for a color change. I used to make all of BigC's spreadsheets, but he has since decided to try something more organized. Since I already had the blank spreadsheets, I decided to change the color and use them. I don't plan to test lots of lights like BigC does, so this should work out fine for me.

These numbers are as close as you can get with a home made system like this, but keep in mind that these numbers are what you can expect to see from the Quark line, but different variables can cause one light to be brighter than another one. All of my lights with the same driver type are pretty close, so these lights seem to be pretty consistent, but keep in mind that it's possible for you to purchase one that's not as bright as mine or one that's brighter than mine. Anyway, enough talking. Here are the numbers:

*Note* I haven't finished all the lights yet (AA2 Turbo combinations), so stay tuned for more.


First, here's a Quark 123 XP-E R2 Regular UI. I took readings of all the modes because I was curious to know what the output is for each mode, and I figured some of you might be interested as well:

Max:









High:








Medium:








Low:








Moonlight:










Now I'll move on to readings of different Quark lights and combinations in Max mode:


*Quark 123 Tactical results:*

















*Quark 123-2 Tactical results:*





















*Quark AA Tactical results:*


















Before I begin talking about mixing and matching parts, I’ll mention something that’s very important to remember while mixing Quark parts. *DO NOT* use a Quark low voltage head with a high voltage battery setup. i.e., low voltage head with 2 Li-ion batteries or two Lithium primaries (unless it's 1.5v AA primaries). Just remember, the low voltage head specs are .9v to 4.2v, and the high voltage head specs are 3v to 9v. If you use 2- Li-ion batteries on a low voltage head, the driver will be bypassed and the emitter will get the full voltage and current from the batteries, and in about 5 seconds, it will be lights out for good (don't ask me how I know ). If you mistakenly use less than 3 volts in the high voltage head (2 Alkalines or 1 Lithium primary), you won’t damage anything, but the output is considerably less than when the voltage is between 3 and 9 volts. You also lose the Turbo mode, well you don’t actually lose the Turbo mode, but the High and Turbo modes are the same brightness, so you might say you have two high modes. If you try to use 1 Alkaline battery in the high voltage head, the light won't work at all because the voltage is just too low.

I believe 4sevens has stopped marking the heads, so it’s probably harder to tell the difference between the heads if you get them mixed up. Currently I have two heads that are not marked at all. One of them is a low voltage XP-G head (Quark AA) and the other is a high voltage head (Quark 123-2 Regular). I can’t say for sure at this time if all new heads are no longer marked, but I'm almost certain. If you get the heads mixed up somehow and you’re not sure which head is which: **EDIT* You can visually see the different traces on the high and low voltage heads (see pictures below), so the easiest way to tell the difference is to look at the back of the driver, and you will see 3 traces for a high voltage head and 1 trace for a low voltage head (thanks to CPF member Shark_za for pointing this out to me:thumbsup.* If this doesn't work for some reason, I suggest using either the 1xAA, 1x123 or 2xAA body with a battery combination that’s 3 volts or less (1-Lithium primary or 1 to 2 Alkalines). If you're using 1 Alkaline in a high voltage head the light won't work at all, so that's the easiest way to tell, but if you don’t have a AA body, and you have to use 1 Lithium primary or 2 Alkalines, you should pay attention to the difference in brightness between the High and Turbo modes. You may have to go into programming mode if you don’t have these two modes already programmed. If the Turbo mode is brighter than the High mode, it’s the low voltage head, but if the High and Turbo modes appear to be the same brightness, it's the high voltage head.
I’ve included some images of the difference between a marked head and an unmarked head:


Marked head *(High voltage head)*:






Unmarked head *(Low voltage head)*:






 Now I’ll discuss the available tail caps and their differences. The Regular and Tactical tail caps both use the same housing, but the switch and button are different between the two. The Regular tail cap uses a reverse type switch that has to be fully activated before the light comes on, so the momentary on feature isn't available with this switch. They designed it this way for two reasons.
1.) The reverse type switch works properly with the Regular UI (user interface).
2.) The reverse type switch is shorter than the forwarding type switch, so the light has the capability to tail stand for hands free use.



The Tactical tail cap uses a forwarding type switch that has the momentary on feature, but the Tactical switch is taller than the reverse switch, so you can’t use the tail standing feature. You can swap switches or complete tailcaps between the models, but I’ve read about UI problems when using the Tactical switch on the Regular UI Quark. If I remember correctly, the light will skip modes during momentary activation, but you need to do some research on your own to see if it will work for you or not.
If you have a Tactical Quark, but you would prefer a tailcap with tail standing capabilities, you have two options.
1.) Use a Regular tail cap and lose the momentary on feature.
2.) Purchase a Quark Turbo “Flat” tail cap that has the same forwarding switch, but the housing has been raised to allow for tail standing.

You also have the option to swap the switches inside the housing, but currently I don’t think the switch is offered separately so you will probably have to buy the complete tailcap assembly. At least we have that option though.
I should also mention that the Turbo Flat tail cap is larger in diameter than the non Turbo Quark tailcaps. I believe 4sevens did this to make the Quark Turbo series proportionate with the larger diameter head on the Turbo models. To some, the use of the Flat tailcap on a non Turbo model may not be aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but if you're willing to accept function over form, you can have the best of both worlds. It really boils down to personal preference though.

4sevens also offers a tail switch boot kit which includes 4 boots, spare o-rings and a boot removal tool. I’ll include pictures of this below, and I’ve also included lots of pictures which combine the use of the Turbo tailcap, Flat Turbo tailcap, Regular tailcap and Tactical tailcap on various bodies with different head combinations. These pictures will be included below, so keep scrolling.


*All four tailcaps:
From left to right: Quark Turbo, Quark Turbo Flat, Quark Tactical and Quark Regular:*






*Note that the blue boots are accessories and don’t come standard with any tailcap purchase. Also note that my artificial lighting makes the blue buttons appear to be a lighter blue than they are in normal/natural lighting.


Tactical left, Regular right:*











*
Quark Turbo Flat left, Quark Turbo right:*







*
Quark Tactical switch (note that the Quark Turbo switch is the same as the Quark Tactical switch):*












*
Quark Regular switch:*










*Quark tailcap boot kit: (remember that the blue boots aren’t as blue in natural lighting as they appear in my pictures)*







Quark Regular with blue boot:






*
Quark Tactical with blue boot:*






 *I should also note that some Quark Regular and Tactical tailcaps have a lock-out feature. I don’t think 4sevens advertises this, and if I’m not mistaken it’s because Surefire has a patent on that feature (I could be wrong though). From my experience, the newer tailcaps have anodized theads, while the older tailcaps lack this feature. I’m not 100% positive about this, so if you end up with a new tailcap that doesn’t have anodized threads, it could be that you've received old stock, or it could possibly be for some other reason. The opinions on this topic are subjective though, because some believe that the lock out feature won’t function properly if the threads on the body aren't anodized also. Personally, I haven't had any issues, but I can see where the anodizing could wear off and create a loss of that feature, and I can also see this feature not functioning properly if you get a tailcap that wasn’t properly anodized from the factory.
Some pictures:**


Non-anodized on the left, anodized on the right:*










* I believe all Quark Turbo tailcaps come anodized and the threading at the tailcap end of the body is anodized on my Turbo's, but I believe I've read about 4sevens making changes to that too so.......**








Quark Turbo:*







*Quark Turbo Flat:*








*I’ve also noticed a difference in the threaded ring that holds the switch in the tailcap housing. I’m not sure if 4sevens is still making two different rings or not, but the one with the protrusion on it came assembled in a Quark 123-2 Regular UI tailcap:*










*
One more thing about tailcaps and I’ll move on. If you’re concerned that placement of the supplied split ring on the Regular tailcap will prevent the light from tailstanding, you can install the split ring like this so it doesn’t interfere with that feature:*









*

I thought I’d show some pictures of the Quark 123-2 Regular and Tactical before I get into all the different head and tailcap combinations. I hope you like to look at pictures because this thread has a lot.

Quark 123-2 Regular:*

























*Tailstanding:*









*Headstanding:*









*A few more and I’ll move on:*

























*Quark 123-2 Tactical:*






































*123 Tactical:*


















*Now the legoing starts:
123 with Turbo Flat tailcap:*













*Tailstanding:*









*Quark 123 with Turbo head and Turbo Flat tailcap:*
















*
Quark 123 with Turbo head and Turbo tailcap:*












*
Quark 123 with Turbo head and Tactical tailcap:*
















*
Quark 123-2 Turbo:*




















*
Quark 123-2 Turbo with Turbo Flat tailcap:*
















*
Quark 123-2 Turbo with Tactical tailcap:*
















*
Quark 123-2 Turbo with Regular tailcap and blue boot:*








*
Quark 123-2 Turbo body. Notice the anodizing on the tailcap end:*













*The business end:*








*
Quark AA Tactical:*








































*
Quark AA with Turbo Flat tailcap:*




















*
Quark AA with Turbo tailcap:*

















*Now for the Turbo head on the Quark AA. The problem with this setup is the fact that the Quark AA body is shorter than the 123-2 body, but they both use the same clip. I know you’re probably thinking, so what, so they use the same clip, big deal. Well, the fact that the Turbo head is larger in diameter than the Tactical and Regular Quark heads poses a problem with the Quark AA body. Here’s what I mean. Note the difference in thread position from the 123-2 body to the AA body:
Quark 123-2*




*Quark AA*





*This causes the tapered part of the Turbo head to come in contact with the clip on the Quark AA body. You have two options for this.
1.) Completely remove the clip. This setup will work just fine, but obviously you won’t have a clip.
2.) Install the tailcap on the head end of the body and install the Turbo head on the tailcap end of the body. Also note that when the tailcap is installed on the head end of the light, the clip protrudes over the tailcap. This could be a problem if you plan to use either of the Turbo tailcaps; the Turbo tailcaps are larger in diameter than the Regular and Tactical tailcaps, which causes the larger tailcaps to hit the clip. It’s not a problem once the tailcap is installed, but you have to hold up on the clip during tailcap installation or you risk damaging the anodizing on the tailcap. Personally, I found it aggravating trying to hold the clip up while installing or removing the tailcap, so I removed the clip. It’s up to you though.




Quark AA with Turbo head and Turbo Flat tailcap:*
















*
Quark AA with Turbo head and Turbo tailcap:*
















*
Quark AA-2 Turbo:*




















*
Quark AA-2 Turbo with Turbo Flat tailcap:*
















*
Quark AA-2 Turbo with Regular head and Tactical tailcap:*
















*
Quark AA-2 Turbo with Regular head and tailcap:*












*
Quark AA-2 body threads. Notice the anodizing on the tailcap end:*













*If you’re wondering about the differences in the Regular, Tactical and Turbo heads, the Turbo UI is exactly the same as the Tactical UI. The Regular head has nothing in common with the Turbo head except the emitter in the XP-G versions.

Here are some pictures showing the size difference in the Tactical and Turbo heads:*













*The 123 is offered with or without a clip, but if you choose the clip version of the 123, you can’t remove it because it’s permanently attached to the head, but if you’re wondering how to remove the clip from any of the Quark bodies except the 123, here you go: 
This is what you start with:*





*
Remove the o-ring:*





*
Unscrew the black grip ring:*





*
Pull the clip off:*











*
Here’s a shot of all the bodies next to each other:*






I hope this is helpful for someone, and I hope to update this thread with more info as I can. Stay tuned for some beamshots:thumbsup:.


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## LEDAdd1ct (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Holy lumens! That is some great work with the camera. Thanks for the detailed pics.


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## ti-force (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate that


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## ASheep (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Good work ti-force! Brilliant pics! They really show the difference in size between the different Quarks. I'm considering getting a Turbo AA^2 soon, and probably one of the AA^2 NW models. 
Keep up the good work lovecpf


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## bodhran (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Great review. Shown with the various options, this will be very helpful to those looking at purchasing their first Quark. For those of us who already have one, or two, or....we can still have some fun. Gotta get myself one of those blue tail caps...


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## SuperTrouper (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks for the write up Ti!

Really handy to be able to see all the combinations for people before they buy.

Legoing is a fantastic strength of the Quark range.


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## KuKu427 (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Fantastic work! Thank you.


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## SixM (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Great post! This will help me out, as I am wanting to do some legoing. Thanks.


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## ti-force (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks guys


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## tre (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Very nice work. I've been wondering about some of those combos. Do you notice a big difference in throw with a Turbo head on a 123 body?


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## SuperTrouper (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



tre said:


> Very nice work. I've been wondering about some of those combos. Do you notice a big difference in throw with a Turbo head on a 123 body?



It's noticeably dimmer on max mode unless you use a 3.7v battery such as an RCR123


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## michelkenny (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks for the info!


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## jhc37013 (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Nice pics I think this will help a lot of people and I didn't know any Quarks came with body thread ano, I probably have 10 Quarks (non-Turbo) and the XP-G models all have ano inside the tailcap but not on the body threads.

Maybe this is something new like you mentioned. I don't ever use lockout but I like the way the treads feel when anodized.


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## Quension (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Nice camera work ti-force, and thanks for putting this together. I learned a few bits I hadn't heard about elsewhere.



SuperTrouper said:


> tre said:
> 
> 
> > Very nice work. I've been wondering about some of those combos. Do you notice a big difference in throw with a Turbo head on a 123 body?
> ...



Which Turbo head? I'd expect that to be true of the 123² head, but not the AA² head.


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## ti-force (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks guys. I'm glad to see this is helping people:thumbsup:.


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## Let It Bleed (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Really like the way the Turbo body looks with the non-Turbo heads and tailcaps. Can you use two 14500 li-ion cells in AA² Turbo tube with a 3v-9v head? Does 4Sevens sell 123² or AA² Turbo battery tubes by themselves? I have a 123² Regular and like the uniform look using the Turbo body. Is the 18650 body the same size as the Turbo?
 
I appreciate you taking the effort to post all these photos. I have considered some Quark “legoing” but wondered how certain combos would actually look. Thanks.


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## ti-force (Jun 5, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



Let It Bleed said:


> Really like the way the Turbo body looks with the non-Turbo heads and tailcaps. Can you use two 14500 li-ion cells in AA² Turbo tube with a 3v-9v head? Does 4Sevens sell 123² or AA² Turbo battery tubes by themselves? I have a 123² Regular and like the uniform look using the Turbo body. Is the 18650 body the same size as the Turbo?
> 
> I appreciate you taking the effort to post all these photos. I have considered some Quark “legoing” but wondered how certain combos would actually look. Thanks.



Yes, 2 14500's are fine with the high voltage head. 4sevens does sell the tubes separately. Go to their website, and in the Quark Turbo section, click on Turbo accessories. I'm not sure about the 18650 tube, I might have to order one . Maybe someone else can comment on it until then.


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## shark_za (Jun 6, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks for this immense effort. 
Instead of comparing power outputs the simplest way to tell the high voltage from the low voltage can be seen in the pics you provide. 

There are additional tracks on the heads PCB that show you its a high voltage.


High voltage 






Low Voltage


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## edc3 (Jun 6, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Great post! One of the (many) things I like about the Quarks is their modularity. 

Thanks for taking the time to do this. A lot of people will find it very helpful. Nice work! :thumbsup:


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## ti-force (Jun 6, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



shark_za said:


> Instead of comparing power outputs the simplest way to tell the high voltage from the low voltage can be seen in the pics you provide.
> 
> There are additional tracks on the heads PCB that show you its a high voltage.



That's an excellent way to tell the difference :thumbsup:. I never noticed that until you pointed it out. I'll update the first post with this info.


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## pipspeak (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

great review and explanation... but I'm confused by some of the images on the 47 site that suggest tactical tailcaps on the non-turbo models now allow tailstanding. 

I was thinking of getting a non-clip 123 tactical, for example, and the images on the site suggest it'll tailstand, but the tailcaps on my AA tactical (R2) is like the one pictured above and definitely will not tailstand. was the design changed at some point, or are the images on the 47 site a little deceiving?


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## edc3 (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Nope, the tacticals will not tailstand. As noted upthread you can either buy a regular (reverse clicky) tailcap or one of the turbo (forward clicky) tailcaps.

Edit: I don't see the Turbo tailcaps on the accessory page. Maybe they don't sell those separately?


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## RainerWahnsinn (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks for this quark encyclopedia. Wonderful photos and a clearly readable writing. I become soon 58, therefore that is very helpful.lovecpf


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## Monocrom (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Very nice! :twothumbs

Thank You for posting that.


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## rumack (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Nice job ti-force! Great pics and you answered my question of whether the turbo heads would lego with the non-turbo bodies.


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## Quension (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



pipspeak said:


> I'm confused by some of the images on the 47 site that suggest tactical tailcaps on the non-turbo models now allow tailstanding.



They have a handful of stock images they keep reusing everywhere, so it's rather deceiving. The pages for both the Regular and Tactical 123 no-clip models show the exact same images, and only the one with the hand actually has a tactical tailcap on it.



edc3 said:


> I don't see the Turbo tailcaps on the accessory page. Maybe they don't sell those separately?



There's a separate Turbo Accessories section under the Quark Turbo category.


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## ti-force (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



edc3 said:


> Edit: I don't see the Turbo tailcaps on the accessory page. Maybe they don't sell those separately?



As Quension mentioned, the Turbo accessories have their own section. Below is the link for anyone who's having trouble finding it.(is it okay to post links like this in a thread like this? Don't want to break any rules)

Click here for Quark Turbo accessories


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## RepProdigious (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



ti-force said:


> Note that the blue boots are accessories and don’t come standard with any tailcap purchase.



Yes they do, they come standard on the titanium versions :thumbsup:


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## RepProdigious (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



Let It Bleed said:


> I have a 123² Regular and like the uniform look using the Turbo body. Is the 18650 body the same size as the Turbo?



The outside diameter on the 18650 body is exactly the same as the non-turbo heads/tails. I dont know how the 18650 body compares to any other bodies length-wise as i only have the 18650 and 1x123 but if you'd like i could take some measurements for you, just tell me what youd like to know.

Here's a pic on the 18650 on a normal tail so you can see the 'uniformity', please ignore the strange color combination..







I'd have to search on my computer for a picture on a completely assembled light as i currently dont have any Quark head (my Ti head is currently being shipped back to 4sevens due to some production flaws).


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## Telkwa (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

I hope this won't be considered off-topic...
I'm new to this high-end LED flashlight stuff. Bought a coupla Quark AA R5's recently. The o-rings are translucent and too stretchy. I had problems immediately with them trying to roll out when installing batteries. Looked around town for a pure silicone grease but all I could find was an anti-oxidizing gel at Home Depot. This seemed to help some - the threads feel smoother and the o-rings behave a little better. But one of the 0-rings keeps trying to hemorrhoid out as I screw the cap down. I think it's probably stretched out now and will continue to give me trouble. 

Do you guys have a source for an o-ring that's "tougher", less stretchy, and behaves better in the standard Quark groove?


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## don.gwapo (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

What can I say, :twothumbs .

Hurrah for all quarks users including me.


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## shark_za (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

I also noticed that in the pictures. 
The AA^2 body is a lot thinner in the middle than the AA^2 Turbo one. 

The Turbo one is a lot like the 18650.


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## ti-force (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



Telkwa said:


> I hope this won't be considered off-topic...
> I'm new to this high-end LED flashlight stuff. Bought a coupla Quark AA R5's recently. The o-rings are translucent and too stretchy. I had problems immediately with them trying to roll out when installing batteries. Looked around town for a pure silicone grease but all I could find was an anti-oxidizing gel at Home Depot. This seemed to help some - the threads feel smoother and the o-rings behave a little better. But one of the 0-rings keeps trying to hemorrhoid out as I screw the cap down. I think it's probably stretched out now and will continue to give me trouble.
> 
> Do you guys have a source for an o-ring that's "tougher", less stretchy, and behaves better in the standard Quark groove?



I don't know about another source, but you can buy the Quark boot kit (see picture above) and get two black o-rings. You could also contact 4sevens and see if they will sell you just the black o-rings.


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## edc3 (Jun 7, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



Telkwa said:


> But one of the 0-rings keeps trying to hemorrhoid out as I screw the cap down.



First of all, this is one of the funniest things I've read in a long time. 

And it perfectly describes the problem. I've had that problem too (on a flashlight).

Anyway, I'll bet that if you contact customer service and describe the problem they'll fix you up with some o-rings. Worth a try anyway.


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## RepProdigious (Jun 8, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Just go to your local diy/hobby store and get one of those packs with various sizes o-rings and just stretch the smallest one that doesn't tear on the light.... The more you stretch a ring the smaller the thickness gets!


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## kito109654 (Jun 8, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Am I missing something or are the turbo flat tailcaps no longer available?


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## ti-force (Jun 8, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



kito109654 said:


> Am I missing something or are the turbo flat tailcaps no longer available?



Click here for the Quark Turbo "Flat" Tailcap


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## kito109654 (Jun 8, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*



ti-force said:


> http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_330_342&products_id=1978


 Ah, under Turbo Accessories, not quark accessories. Thank you very much.


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## Unclemonkey (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*

anyone know if the 18650 bodies work with the 123 turbo head???:thinking:


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## kito109654 (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



Unclemonkey said:


> anyone know if the 18650 bodies work with the 123 turbo head???:thinking:



It should work with either turbo head.


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## rich d (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*

thanks for the great pictures.

i was still deciding which quark to get and now it looks like i will need at

least two :thinking:


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## Let It Bleed (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



> The outside diameter on the 18650 body is exactly the same as the non-turbo heads/tails. I dont know how the 18650 body compares to any other bodies length-wise as i only have the 18650 and 1x123 but if you'd like i could take some measurements for you, just tell me what youd like to know.
> 
> Here's a pic on the 18650 on a normal tail so you can see the 'uniformity', please ignore the strange color combination..


Thanks! The above picture tells me what I wanted to know. Got to get a 18650 body for my 123x2 Quark Regular. Tint is greener than I would like, but the small size, high output, and multiple levels make it a very useful light.


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## RepProdigious (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



Let It Bleed said:


> Thanks! The above picture tells me what I wanted to know. Got to get a 18650 body for my 123x2 Quark Regular. Tint is greener than I would like, but the small size, high output, and multiple levels make it a very useful light.



No problem, glad i could help. Just remember that a single cell on the double-cell head will probably not make it as bright as it could be...... But you'd have to read into that a little bit because i dont have the double cell head.....


----------



## ti-force (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



rich d said:


> thanks for the great pictures.
> 
> i was still deciding which quark to get and now it looks like i will need at
> 
> least two :thinking:



You're welcome  





RepProdigious said:


> Just remember that a single cell on the double-cell head will probably not make it as bright as it could be...... But you'd have to read into that a little bit because i dont have the double cell head.....





It's been my experience that the difference in brightness between a 123-2 head being ran with 2-RCR123 Li-ion's or 2-CR123 primaries vs the same head being ran with an AW17670 Li-ion is negligible. With some help from a CPF friend, I'm working on my own 16" sphere so I can take some OTF lumens readings of the different combinations with these lights. When everything is perfect, I'll list the OTF lumens for these lights with different batteries, bodies and heads. Stay tuned.


----------



## edc3 (Jun 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



ti-force said:


> ...With some help from a CPF friend, I'm working on my own 16" sphere so I can take some OTF lumens readings of the different combinations with these lights. When everything is perfect, I'll list the OTF lumens for these lights with different batteries, bodies and heads. Stay tuned.



I'm VERY interested in reading your results.


----------



## RepProdigious (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



ti-force said:


> It's been my experience that the difference in brightness between a 123-2 head being ran with 2-RCR123 Li-ion's or 2-CR123 primaries vs the same head being ran with an AW17650 Li-ion is negligible. With some help from a CPF friend, I'm working on my own 16" sphere so I can take some OTF lumens readings of the different combinations with these lights. When everything is perfect, I'll list the OTF lumens for these lights with different batteries, bodies and heads. Stay tuned.



Interesting.... And how about when the cell's voltage starts to drop significantly until just before its dead? My guess would be that this would be harder for the double cell head to handle (with 3 volts being the lowest it can do and all).


----------



## ti-force (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



RepProdigious said:


> Interesting.... And how about when the cell's voltage starts to drop significantly until just before its dead? My guess would be that this would be harder for the double cell head to handle (with 3 volts being the lowest it can do and all).



I haven't done any runtime tests (and I don't plan to), so I can't say for sure at what voltage the light shuts down or dims at, but when the single Li-ion cell gets to 3v, it's already depleted and falling like a rock. Go to the linked thread below and look at the discharge graphs for the AW Li-ions. Pay attention to the red trace because that's under a 1A load, which is close to what will be drawn in the Quark. This isn't apples to apples because the discharge chart is of an 18650 and we're talking about a 17670, but the voltage will probably still drop like a rock. Using an AW17670 will yield a longer runtime than 2- RCR123's anyway :thumbsup:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257543


----------



## RepProdigious (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



ti-force said:


> I haven't done any runtime tests (and I don't plan to), so I can't say for sure at what voltage the light shuts down or dims at, but when the single Li-ion cell gets to 3v, it's already depleted and falling like a rock. Go to the linked thread below and look at the discharge graphs for the AW Li-ions. Pay attention to the red trace because that's under a 1A load, which is close to what will be drawn in the Quark. This isn't apples to apples because the discharge chart is of an 18650 and we're talking about a 17670, but the voltage will probably still drop like a rock. Using an AW17670 will yield a longer runtime than 2- RCR123's anyway :thumbsup:
> 
> https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/257543



All very true, but its not the shutting down but the dimming part that im interested in! Even at 3,5 volts the high voltage head will be in the lower 10% of its voltage range whilst the low voltage head would still be in the ballpark (80% or so)! Now im not saying this will hinder functionality, in fact proper regulation should make sure it doesn't, but it just makes me wonder.......


----------



## ti-force (Jun 10, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost) Quark Lego Review*



RepProdigious said:


> All very true, but its not the shutting down but the dimming part that im interested in! Even at 3,5 volts the high voltage head will be in the lower 10% of its voltage range whilst the low voltage head would still be in the ballpark (80% or so)! Now im not saying this will hinder functionality, in fact proper regulation should make sure it doesn't, but it just makes me wonder.......



It appears that most people on here actually prefer the dimming that you're interested in. Go to the thread I've linked to below and you will find your answer. You need to read all the way through to at least the bottom of page 2 though.
Here you go:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/260626


----------



## ti-force (Jun 13, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Post #1 has been updated with OTF lumens of my Quarks . Note that I haven't finished with the AA-2 Turbo or the combinations using that head so you have to stay tuned if you're interested in those numbers.


----------



## kito109654 (Jun 13, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks for posting your readings, it's appreciated!


----------



## ti-force (Jun 13, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

You're welcome :thumbsup:. I'm glad I can provide the data.


----------



## edc3 (Jun 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Awesome! Thank you very much. I'm ordering a 17670 tomorrow. :thumbsup:


----------



## Sgt. LED (Jun 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

I stuck together the Turbo 2xAA head, the single cell 123 tube, and the turbo flat tailcap. I like that it has no markings on it at all.
Works like a charm but haven't done any runtimes on this little combo yet.
Looking forward to more of your results!


----------



## MrGman (Jun 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

*I would say this is one heck of a Quarkappallooza if only I knew how to spell it. Great work.*


----------



## ti-force (Jun 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



edc3 said:


> Awesome! Thank you very much. I'm ordering a 17670 tomorrow. :thumbsup:



You're welcome




Sgt. LED said:


> I stuck together the Turbo 2xAA head, the single cell 123 tube, and the turbo flat tailcap. I like that it has no markings on it at all.
> Works like a charm but haven't done any runtimes on this little combo yet.
> Looking forward to more of your results!



Nice:thumbsup:
Also, if you do some runtime testing and you would like to share it, feel free to post it here and if you want me to, I can put the data in the first post for people to use.




MrGman said:


> *I would say this is one heck of a Quarkappallooza if only I knew how to spell it. Great work.*



Thanks
And again, I truly appreciate all the help:thumbsup:


----------



## ky70 (Jun 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



ti-force said:


> Post #1 has been updated with OTF lumens of my Quarks . Note that I haven't finished with the AA-2 Turbo or the combinations using that head so you have to stay tuned if you're interested in those numbers.



Thank you for doing this!! OTF stats on the non-mini quarks with XPG-R5 are very scarce and this really helps me to finally see these figures.


----------



## ti-force (Jun 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



ky70 said:


> Thank you for doing this!! OTF stats on the non-mini quarks with XPG-R5 are very scarce and this really helps me to finally see these figures.



You're quite welcome. I'm glad this data is useful for you.


----------



## tre (Jun 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Does anybody have a definitive answer about a tactical tail cap on a regular quark? Does it work properly?

I like the regular quark head UI but I would also like it to have a forward clickie for momentary on.

I would like to put a tactical tail cap on my regular 123 (XP-G) to get this. Anybody know if this works?


----------



## GarageBoy (Jun 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks (well, almost)*

Thanks for the runtime chart!


----------



## Quension (Jun 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



tre said:


> Does anybody have a definitive answer about a tactical tail cap on a regular quark? Does it work properly?



It works. Personally I'd find it annoying that when using momentary functionality, letting it turn off would mean I couldn't turn it back on immediately without accidentally changing modes, but aside from that it sounds usable.


----------



## bigchelis (Jun 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Holly cow


Tons of data tons of pictures tons of hours:thumbsupthumbsup:


----------



## ti-force (Jun 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



bigchelis said:


> Holly cow
> 
> 
> Tons of data tons of pictures tons of hours:thumbsupthumbsup:



Thanks for the kind words BigC, and thanks for all of your help too; it's appreciated :twothumbs.


----------



## yalskey (Jun 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Seriously epic review... One of the reasons I love cpf!


----------



## SharkyZiff (Jun 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Great job OP!!lovecpf


----------



## ti-force (Jun 17, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



yalskey said:


> Seriously epic review... One of the reasons I love cpf!






SharkyZiff said:


> Great job OP!!lovecpf




Thanks for the kind words guys .


----------



## NoFair (Jun 17, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Very nice :thumbsup: 

Great job and wonderful pictures. 

Thanks

Sverre


----------



## ti-force (Jun 18, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

I have some new readings of different modes to share with everyone. These results are from a Quark 123 XP-E R2 Regular UI. I took readings of all the modes because I was curious to know what the output is for each mode, and I figured some of you might be interested as well. I'll post them here for you to look at, but I've also updated the first post in this thread to show these results also. Here you go:

Oh yeah, thanks for the kind words NoFair.

Max:









High:








Medium:








Low:








Moonlight:


----------



## ti-force (Jun 23, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

I apologize to anyone who's been waiting for my readings with the low voltage Turbo head using different battery and body combinations. Before I started this thread I had a little mishap with my low voltage Turbo head. It's not a good idea to try taking beamshots with multiple lights and multiple batteries in the dark while consuming alcohol. I fried the emitter by accidentally installing two AW RCR123's in the 123-2 body with that head on it . Since I've taken quite a few of these heads apart, I thought I would find out if the driver was still good with a quick test using an emitter that I normally use for these types of tests.

The driver checked out good with 2- AA's in a AA-2 body so I assumed everything was fine. Anyway, I opened up my 123-2 XP-G R5 head, removed the emitter and installed it into my low voltage Turbo head. Again, a test run verified that everything worked excellent. It never dawned on me to check the function of the light with a single AA. I proceeded to start my testing and made the first run on high with an AW 17670 with good results. Then I installed the head on my AA body and installed an Energizer E2 Lithium primary and proceeded to start my testing. Well, when I clicked the light on I got nothing, so I inspected the light quickly to make sure a contact problem wasn't the issue. I also tried another tailcap to eliminate that as an issue, but nothing solved the problem.

I've came to the conclusion that the driver no longer operates with a 1.5v battery and since the driver is most likely damaged, I don't want to proceed with any testing with this driver because of the possibility of flawed results. What I mean is, if the driver is damaged I don't want to take the chance that this head could possibly read higher or lower with higher voltage batteries than it would have before the driver was damaged. I don't plan to purchase another low voltage Turbo head just to finish this review because this head still works fine with 2-AA batteries or 1-Li-ion. If someone has a low voltage head that they would like to send me so I can finish my testing I would gladly finish this and send the head back to you, but like I said I have no interest in purchasing another one.

Sorry about this guys.


----------



## Burgess (Jun 27, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

to Ti-Force --


Wow, this is a *Great Thread* ! ! !


*Thank you* for all yer' Time and Effort !


:wow::goodjob::kewlpics::thanks:
_


----------



## ti-force (Jun 28, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



Burgess said:


> to Ti-Force --
> 
> 
> Wow, this is a *Great Thread* ! ! !
> ...



Thanks for the kind words.


----------



## DM51 (Jun 28, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

This is *superb*. You've clearly put a huge amount of time and effort into it, that the result is first-class. It is a beautifully-illustrated and very comprehensive review that members will find extremely valuable. Well done! 

Moving to the Reviews section now.


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## ti-force (Jun 29, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



DM51 said:


> This is *superb*. You've clearly put a huge amount of time and effort into it, that the result is first-class. It is a beautifully-illustrated and very comprehensive review that members will find extremely valuable. Well done!
> 
> Moving to the Reviews section now.




Thanks for the move, and thanks for the complements. It's greatly appreciated.


----------



## forklift (Jul 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

_Very_ cool! You planning on some beamshots for these diff models?


----------



## ti-force (Jul 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



forklift said:


> _Very_ cool! You planning on some beamshots for these diff models?



I'd like to, but it's been hard to do lately; it doesn't get dark enough here for beamshots until about 9:30 PM or so, and I'm just not as young as I used to be . I'll try to, but it may be after the time changes back. I do have a gif comparison of the Quark 123-2 XP-E R2 and 123-2 XP-G R5. I'll also compare these lights to a Fenix TK10 and TK11 so anyone who has either of those light can get an idea. Distance from light to Pine tree is 23ft:


----------



## DHart (Jul 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Ti-force... just piling on to what everyone else has said... GREAT work than is extremely helpful and useful!

I'm a bit of a Quark fanatic myself and really love the legoing.... that's a major feature for me. Along with the clean beams and super low moonlight. Very nice lights.

I just received a special run XP-G R4 Neutral White 123x2 (I run all of my 123x2 Quarks with a single 17670 li-ion). And I'm finding that with the forward clicky tailcap, the light will not revert back to default at the next "turn-on". For example, I'll use momentary on MAX, then the next time I use momentary, it comes on strobe. Even if the time period in between is much longer than 3 seconds, like 10 sec or 30 sec. Normal operation does occur when used with the reverse clicky switch. Weird. I sent a note to 4Sevens about exchanging the head for another, but haven't heard back.

The XP-G R4 is sure a floody emitter... very nice, wide, clean general beam (and bright!) with only mildly noticible central emphasis. It almost looks like a P7 or MC-E in use. I like it except for distant targets.

Any input on tints with the XP-G R5? I've read some folks complaining about a greenish tinge and others saying they don't have that issue. (Of course if your illuminated target is a foliage laden exterior scene, it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to detect a greenish tinge on a greenish subject.) Do you think these different reports reflect a difference in their individual samples, a difference in the perspective/perception of the individual users, or perhaps some folks are evaluating using an exterior scene and just can't tell because of that?


----------



## ti-force (Jul 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



DHart said:


> Ti-force... just piling on to what everyone else has said... GREAT work than is extremely helpful and useful!
> 
> I'm a bit of a Quark fanatic myself and really love the legoing.... that's a major feature for me. Along with the clean beams and super low moonlight. Very nice lights.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the kind words; I appreciate that . 

You say you're having trouble with your Regular UI Quark. Are you using a tactical switch with this light? I've read about issues while using the Tactical (forwarding) switch with the Regular UI, and your problems sound very similar to the problems I've read about. If you're using a Tactical switch, have you tried this with the Regular (reverse clicky) switch to eliminate the Tactical switch as a problem?

If you're not using the Tactical switch, then I'd say you definitely have a problem, but if you have another Regular UI Quark, you could try the tailcap from that light on the NW Quark to see if the problem is in the switch of the NW Quark somehow.

The only other possible problem I can think of is this: I can loosen the head on my Quark to access the other mode(s), and if I don't loosen the head far enough, there is just enough play in the threads (where the head screws on to the body) that the body can make contact with the driver board again and it would be the same as twisting the head back tight, although I think you would notice this change when you turned the light on, but it's something to think about.

If you think this might be your problem, turn the light on and barely loosen the head until it switches to the other mode, then hold the light with one hand and pull the head back towards the light with the other hand and you should see what I'm talking about.

I have had this happen to me before when turning the light on one handed and it took me a minute to figure it out. This may not be your problem at all, but I thought I'd suggest it anyway.

On to the tint. Out of all the XP-G R5 Quarks I've purchased, only one of them had a green tint to it, and that light was purchased used from another member on the Marketplace. I'm not saying the user intentionally rid his green tinted light to me, and either way, it had a green tint when it was purchased new, but the odds might be greater of getting a green tint on the Marketplace if you know what I mean . Anyway, to answer your question, yes it really is green. I mean, it's not like a Quark RGB on green or anything, but it definitely has a noticeable green tint to it. It probably varies from emitter to emitter though at just how green the tint is. All my other Quark cool white XP-G's have an almost pure white hot spot.

I didn't like the tint of my 1 green tinted XP-G, so I actually removed it from the MCPCB and replaced it with a NW emitter that I purchased from Cutter, but most people either aren't willing to do open heart surgery on their Quark, or they don't have the tools or skills to do it, so not everyone has that option. I will say this though, my mistake was comparing that light against another cool white emitter on a white wall. That was the kiss of death haha.... For some reason that really makes the green tint stand out, and after that, you will notice it from then on.


----------



## DHart (Jul 9, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

ti-force.... The light was supplied with a reverse clicky tailcap and it is the use of a tactical tailcap that causes this problem. But that surprises me as I can use my tactical tailcaps with all of my other regular UI Quark heads and have everything work as expected, but not with this XP-G R4 123x2 head. Kind of bums me as I greatly prefer the combination of a tactical switch with a regular UI head and I have that on most of my other Quarks.

Nice to hear that the green tint is not to be expected on all XP-G R5 samples. I may venture out on the plank and order one of those. I presume 4Sevens will take a return for exchange if I should get one on the green side?


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## ti-force (Jul 10, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Have you tried your other Tactical switches on the NW light? I know that sounds crazy, but you never know, the problem might be in the switch.

I really don't know if 4sevens would take the light back due to tint or not. I don't think they want a dissatisfied customer, but I can't say for sure.


----------



## jackthedog (Jul 10, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

I just stumbled across this thread while looking into getting a Quark Turbo. This thread is great. Thank you for your work on this and the Maelstrom. 

Great photos too.


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## ti-force (Jul 10, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



jackthedog said:


> I just stumbled across this thread while looking into getting a Quark Turbo. This thread is great. Thank you for your work on this and the Maelstorm.
> 
> Great photos too.



You're quite welcome, and I hope you find this information useful.


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## MrGman (Jul 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

I EDC my new Quark 123 and have now been using it at work. Part of what I do is high voltage testing of components and look for arcs. I have a new dark room lab to do that in and use the Quark on Moon Mode to just barely see the control panel of the high voltage tester to bring up the voltage and still not ruin my night vision and ability to look for arcs of the item under test. The kicker is, the center of the beam is to bright so I just use the spill section on the control panel with the center of the beam pointed below it so as not to have to much light. Whoodathunkit be a little too bright. I may just have to get myself the Quark RGB unit???

For an EDC light, the moonlight mode definitely has its place. As I was training a fellow lab worker to do the same test, and we had to work in the dark he saw me use my Quark and was immediately lusting and saying he wanted to get one and what was the cost and so on. Very handy indeed.


----------



## forklift (Jul 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Is there any chance we can get a comparison of the beamshots from a Quark Tactical 123^2 vs AA^2? I've yet to find a thread here that compared the two "squared" battery types.


----------



## ti-force (Jul 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



forklift said:


> Is there any chance we can get a comparison of the beamshots from a Quark Tactical 123^2 vs AA^2? I've yet to find a thread here that compared the two "squared" battery types.



I'll see what I can do. No promises though, and it will be no sooner than this weekend. I'm assuming you want to see the XP-G's paired against each other. Is that correct?


----------



## ti-force (Jul 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



MrGman said:


> I EDC my new Quark 123 and have now been using it at work. Part of what I do is high voltage testing of components and look for arcs. I have a new dark room lab to do that in and use the Quark on Moon Mode to just barely see the control panel of the high voltage tester to bring up the voltage and still not ruin my night vision and ability to look for arcs of the item under test. The kicker is, the center of the beam is to bright so I just use the spill section on the control panel with the center of the beam pointed below it so as not to have to much light. Whoodathunkit be a little too bright. I may just have to get myself the Quark RGB unit???
> 
> For an EDC light, the moonlight mode definitely has its place. As I was training a fellow lab worker to do the same test, and we had to work in the dark he saw me use my Quark and was immediately lusting and saying he wanted to get one and what was the cost and so on. Very handy indeed.



Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:.

Do you want the RGB so you can use red to help keep your night vision? My next project will be a Quark with a red XP-E swap. I plan to use this light for walking in and out of the woods and swamp in the dark during hunting season. I'm hoping the red will help keep my eyes adjusted to dark conditions, and also not spook any animals as easily as a white light.


----------



## DHart (Jul 14, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



MrGman said:


> The kicker is, the center of the beam is to bright so I just use the spill section on the control panel with the center of the beam pointed below it so as not to have to much light.



Hey MrGman... I've got just the Quark for you... the special run XP-G Neutral-white version. Bins used are either 4C0 or 4D0 with an R4, which has a really broad, even floody beam... the hot spot ain't so "hot" nor so "spotty". ;-) Put it on moonlight and you have a really soft, floody squeek of light that has less of a hotspot than the standard Quarks.


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## Quension (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Hmm, I took MrGman's comment about getting a Quark RGB to be for the MC-E beam profile on moonlight white, rather than specifically about the colors. There probably aren't many other lights that have a 0.4 lumen moonlight mode in a nearly-flat flood beam pattern.


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## DHart (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



Quension said:


> Hmm, I took MrGman's comment about getting a Quark RGB to be for the MC-E beam profile on moonlight white, rather than specifically about the colors. There probably aren't many other lights that have a 0.4 lumen moonlight mode in a nearly-flat flood beam pattern.



Sounds interesting... I need to get schooled up on the RGB Quark.


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## sugibdg (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

I am considering to buy Quark 123, thanks for your review, it gave me a lots of info :twothumbs


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## ti-force (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



Quension said:


> Hmm, I took MrGman's comment about getting a Quark RGB to be for the MC-E beam profile on moonlight white, rather than specifically about the colors. There probably aren't many other lights that have a 0.4 lumen moonlight mode in a nearly-flat flood beam pattern.



You may be right. I don't have any experience with the Quark RGB, and, well every time I hear RGB, I automatically think Red, Green and Blue. I also though that since red light may be a different color than that of the arcs he's looking for in his dark room lab, the arcs might stand out better. Only G knows, maybe he can comment so we know for sure. Also, I don't know if it matters or not, but the Quark RGB has an OTF rating of. 4 lumens on 4sevens website. I don't know how much difference the added. 2 lumens would make, but I thought I'd point it out. *EDIT: I see you've already pointed that out *



sugibdg said:


> I am considering to buy Quark 123, thanks for your review, it gave me a lots of info :twothumbs



You're welcome. Go ahead and order the Quark , you won't be disappointed. Also, you can use the CPF8 code during checkout for 8% off :thumbsup:


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## ti-force (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

DHart,

Did you figure out the UI problem you were having while using the Tactical switch on the Regular UI?


----------



## candle lamp (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Excellent review and good job ! Thank you. :twothumbs


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## JeffN (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

First of all, ti-force, thanks for an incredibly complete review -- your work is very much appreciated. :twothumbs

Now to an issue I'm having. I just acquired a Turbo 123^2 and am fully satisfied with its performance. I planned to lego the Turbo head and switch onto a regular Quark 123 body, the same as I've done with a Quark RGB (fits better in the holster I use). Neither the Turbo head nor Turbo switch will thread onto the regular 123 body -- both bind immediately on the body and I don't want to take the chance of damaging the threads.

Further experimentation shows the regular Quark (R2) head and switch thread right onto the Turbo 123^2 body. The RGB head and its switch thread right onto the Turbo 123^2 body. So the Turbo 123^2 body works in all configurations, but the Turbo head and switch will not go on either of the regular 123 bodies.

I've read through the entire thread here (unfortunately CPFMP is still undergoing resusitation). Am I missing something? Do I have to use a Tactical 123 body? Is the Tactical body different? I just checked 4Sevens' site and the description for the regular Quark R2 123 I purchased (before the R5 ver was released) says the threads are square-cut. The 123 body I use with the RGB was purchased as an accessory a couple of months ago. Was the thread configuration changed?

Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks again.


----------



## ti-force (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



JeffN said:


> First of all, ti-force, thanks for an incredibly complete review -- your work is very much appreciated. :twothumbs
> 
> Now to an issue I'm having. I just acquired a Turbo 123^2 and am fully satisfied with its performance. I planned to lego the Turbo head and switch onto a regular Quark 123 body, the same as I've done with a Quark RGB (fits better in the holster I use). Neither the Turbo head nor Turbo switch will thread onto the regular 123 body -- both bind immediately on the body and I don't want to take the chance of damaging the threads.
> 
> ...




Contact 4sevens and they will send you another Turbo. I've read about this problem before and it's limited to the Turbo model. Look at the threads and see if they are sharp cut on your Turbo. That sounds like the problem.


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## JeffN (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

Thanks for the response. I'm the second owner, so I guess I'm stuck. Not a big deal -- the light fits my hand well in 123^2 configuration.


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## forklift (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



ti-force said:


> I'll see what I can do. No promises though, and it will be no sooner than this weekend. I'm assuming you want to see the XP-G's paired against each other. Is that correct?


 
Yes, that would be very much appreciated! Thanks for the review, also! lovecpf


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## ti-force (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



JeffN said:


> Thanks for the response. I'm the second owner, so I guess I'm stuck. Not a big deal -- the light fits my hand well in 123^2 configuration.




I don't think you're stuck with it unless you don't get it exchanged. If the threads are sharp, it's a manufacturing defect. Not something that could've been prevented by you, and not something that you caused. 4sevens has excellent customer service and they stand behind their products. You will get quicker service if you call instead of email. If it were me, I'd exchange it. Let us know how it goes if you do exchange it.


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## JeffN (Jul 15, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



ti-force said:


> I don't think you're stuck with it unless you don't get it exchanged. If the threads are sharp, it's a manufacturing defect. Not something that could've been prevented by you, and not something that you caused. 4sevens has excellent customer service and they stand behind their products. You will get quicker service if you call instead of email.


 
Yah, maybe I'll give that a try. I'm familiar with their service -- I had a nice chat with Peter a few months ago. It just figures that I've purchased 10 lights directly from them over the past few months without any issues and the first time I buy one secondhand... 

I found the forum thread with the discussion of sharp threads on the Turbo -- thanks. I work in the metalforming industry -- this unremarked change in thread design is a disturbing quality issue.


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## TwitchALot (Jul 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



DHart said:


> I just received a special run XP-G R4 Neutral White 123x2 (I run all of my 123x2 Quarks with a single 17670 li-ion). And I'm finding that with the forward clicky tailcap, the light will not revert back to default at the next "turn-on". For example, I'll use momentary on MAX, then the next time I use momentary, it comes on strobe. Even if the time period in between is much longer than 3 seconds, like 10 sec or 30 sec. Normal operation does occur when used with the reverse clicky switch. Weird. I sent a note to 4Sevens about exchanging the head for another, but haven't heard back.



I have the exact same problem with my 2 X AA Neutral XP-G. It will function as it should after 10 seconds (10-15 seconds or so), but if I turn it off or on before ten seconds, it switches modes. The odd thing about my light is that it only happens on 14500's. It operates as it should on Eneloops in the 2 X AA format. 

Switching tailcaps did not help, and this 14500 functions fine with my other heads. So far, no response from CS.


----------



## DHart (Jul 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



TwitchALot said:


> I have the exact same problem with my 2 X AA Neutral XP-G. It will function as it should after 10 seconds (10-15 seconds or so), but if I turn it off or on before ten seconds, it switches modes. The odd thing about my light is that it only happens on 14500's. It operates as it should on Eneloops in the 2 X AA format.
> 
> Switching tailcaps did not help, and this 14500 functions fine with my other heads. So far, no response from CS.



I just heard from 4Sevens CS... they're going to replace my XP-G R4 Neutral White 123x2. They acknowledged that the light should return to default mode after 3 seconds.... something mine does do with the supplied reverse clicky switch, but does not RELIABLY do with a forward clicky switch. :thinking:

I do love the soft, neutral beam, however, which has a very wide and diffuse central beam... excellent for in-house, back-yard use. Not a thrower by any means, but most of the time I don't want a "thrower"... this is where the XP-G R4 shines! I'm looking forward to seeing how the "replacement light" does with a tactical tail-cap. All I want is a reliable return to default mode after 3 to 5 seconds.


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## TwitchALot (Jul 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



DHart said:


> I just heard from 4Sevens CS... they're going to replace my XP-G R4 Neutral White 123x2. They acknowledged that the light should return to default mode after 3 seconds.... something mine does do with the supplied reverse clicky switch, but does not RELIABLY do with a forward clicky switch. :thinking:
> 
> I do love the soft, neutral beam, however, which has a very wide and diffuse central beam... excellent for in-house, back-yard use. Not a thrower by any means, but most of the time I don't want a "thrower"... this is where the XP-G R4 shines! I'm looking forward to seeing how the "replacement light" does with a tactical tail-cap. All I want is a reliable return to default mode after 3 to 5 seconds.



Agreed. Are you returning the head or the whole light?


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## DHart (Jul 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



TwitchALot said:


> Agreed. Are you returning the head or the whole light?



I don't know... when the replacement arrives, I'll return whatever is being replaced.


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## ti-force (Jul 16, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

You know, I still prefer a forwarding switch, but I've recently swapped the forwarding switch on my Quark 123-2 Tactical EDC for one of my reverse clicky switches, and I've actually found the light more useful now. With the forwarding tailcap, I would find myself needing to tailstand the light on a surface at night for some hands free lighting, but we all know that isn't possible with the Tactical (forwarding tailcap), so I swapped one of my spare Regular (reverse clicky) tailcaps, and although I miss the momentary action of the Tactical switch, the tailstanding feature is needed more for my EDC needs. I might try out the Turbo Flat tailswitch to see if I like it; then I'd have the best of both worlds :thumbsup:.


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## ti-force (Jul 18, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*

**BEAMSHOTS*:* To see beamshots of different Quark lights click here. I would've posted them in this thread, but there are already so many images in this thread.


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## DHart (Jul 18, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



ti-force said:


> You know, I still prefer a forwarding switch, but I've recently swapped the forwarding switch on my Quark 123-2 Tactical EDC for one of my reverse clicky switches, and I've actually found the light more useful now. With the forwarding tailcap, I would find myself needing to tailstand the light on a surface at night for some hands free lighting, but we all know that isn't possible with the Tactical (forwarding tailcap), so I swapped one of my spare Regular (reverse clicky) tailcaps, and although I miss the momentary action of the Tactical switch, the tailstanding feature is needed more for my EDC needs. I might try out the Turbo Flat tailswitch to see if I like it; then I'd have the best of both worlds :thumbsup:.



Hmmmmm... the turbo flat switch.... that's one I don't have and I think I should!

BTW, 4Sevens sent me a complete replacement light, so I'm returning the entire first light back to them. The replacement light works as intended with the momentary switch and return to default mode after a few seconds.

======

Ti-Force... AMAZING review thread you've put together here. Thank you.


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## RepProdigious (Jul 18, 2010)

Holy [email protected], thats alot of work youve done on the beamshots right there...


Great stuff man, im impressed! :thumbsup:


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## ti-force (Jul 18, 2010)

*Re: Calling all Quarks, Quark Lego Review (updated with OTF numbers)*



DHart said:


> Hmmmmm... the turbo flat switch.... that's one I don't have and I think I should!
> 
> BTW, 4Sevens sent me a complete replacement light, so I'm returning the entire first light back to them. The replacement light works as intended with the momentary switch and return to default mode after a few seconds.
> 
> ...




Sweet! I'm glad 4sevens took care of you :thumbsup:, and thanks for the complement .




RepProdigious said:


> Holy [email protected], thats alot of work youve done on the beamshots right there...
> 
> 
> Great stuff man, im impressed! :thumbsup:




Thanks for the complement . I hope everyone who's interested in Quarks finds this info useful :thumbsup:.


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## MarkW (Jul 18, 2010)

All I can say is, wow-- an incredible amount of helpful work. Glad I found this thread, and thanks.


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## TwitchALot (Jul 18, 2010)




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## ti-force (Jul 18, 2010)

MarkW said:


> All I can say is, wow-- an incredible amount of helpful work. Glad I found this thread, and thanks.



Thanks for the complement and I'm glad you find this info helpful :thumbsup:.



TwitchALot said:


>



LOL..... ........ I laugh every time I see the fainting emoticon :thumbsup:.


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## choppers (Jul 19, 2010)

Just found this review...thank you very much for taking the time to do it. Going to be ordering a 123 with Turbo Head and tactical tailcap.

Thanks again,


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## TwitchALot (Jul 19, 2010)

ti-force said:


> LOL..... ........ I laugh every time I see the fainting emoticon :thumbsup:.



There's been too much  on my part lately. My G5 passaround writeup is already six pages long... single spaced.


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## qandeel (Jul 19, 2010)

ti-force 

This is a very helpful thread. Nice job done here. Thanks for your efforts I certainly learned some good info here.
Thanks to DHart for pointing me to this thread.


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## Egsise (Jul 19, 2010)

Nice pics but didn't read the text because the font is so big that my eyes hurt, why not use default font like everyone else?


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## ti-force (Jul 19, 2010)

qandeel said:


> ti-force
> 
> This is a very helpful thread. Nice job done here. Thanks for your efforts I certainly learned some good info here.
> Thanks to DHart for pointing me to this thread.





choppers said:


> Just found this review...thank you very much for taking the time to do it. Going to be ordering a 123 with Turbo Head and tactical tailcap.
> 
> Thanks again,



Thanks for the complements guys; I certainly appreciate it .




TwitchALot said:


> There's been too much  on my part lately. My G5 passaround writeup is already six pages long... single spaced.




I'm looking forward to your writeup :thumbsup:.



Egsise,

I can't please everyone, so I don't try  .


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## Egsise (Jul 19, 2010)

yeah that's why the default font is preferred, not the big font.


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## ti-force (Jul 19, 2010)

Egsise said:


> yeah that's why the default font is preferred, not the big font.



Out of the 4000+ views this thread has had, you're the first person to complain. It's not up for discussion here, so either get back on topic or troll on elsewhere.


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## Egsise (Jul 19, 2010)

Ok i'm sorry, perhaps most of your readers are visually impaired and like the big font, i just said i didn't read the text because it was difficult because of the big font which is not default.

Ever seen anyone complaining about the default font?

i thought so....


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## ti-force (Jul 19, 2010)

Egsise said:


> i just said i didn't read the text because it was difficult because of the big font which is not default.



If this were genuinely your intent, that would be one thing, but it's not; you have other motives and you don't fool me. But read this, and you have no excuse because it's in the default font - If you don't like the font, or size of said font in this thread, simply click the red X at the top of this page. No one here is forcing you to read the text, look at the pictures or even open this thread to begin with, so please feel free to exclude yourself from it at any time. Have a nice day


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## DM51 (Jul 19, 2010)

Egsise, it was not constructive to intervene in this thread solely to complain about a minor detail which doesn't happen to meet your personal preference. You are advised to stop wasting my time (and everyone else's) with such posts, and with your frivolous use of the report post facility.


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## forklift (Jul 19, 2010)

oo: Ti-Force for president!!! Man, you're awesome!!!


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## ti-force (Jul 19, 2010)

forklift said:


> oo: Ti-Force for president!!! Man, you're awesome!!!



. Glad to hear you found the beamshots helpful :thumbsup:.


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## TwitchALot (Jul 19, 2010)

ti-force said:


> I'm looking forward to your writeup :thumbsup:.



You say that now, but when your eyes asplode!, don't say I didn't warn you...


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## mr.snakeman (Sep 14, 2010)

Just a little lego addition: even though my turbo doesn´t have square threads (actually they look more like truncated cones when viewed with a 10x jewelers lup) I am able to use my Ti Quark (good square threads on all parts) components completely interchangeably with my turbo components in any combination.


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## ti-force (Sep 14, 2010)

mr.snakeman said:


> Just a little lego addition: even though my turbo doesn´t have square threads (actually they look more like truncated cones when viewed with a 10x jewelers lup) I am able to use my Ti Quark (good square threads on all parts) components completely interchangeably with my turbo components in any combination.



Thanks for sharing.


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## ganymede (May 29, 2011)

Sorry for bumping this old thread, anyone has the OTF numbers for lego Quark AA^2? Thanks!


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## skyfire (May 30, 2011)

OTF lumens should be the same as any other Quark AAx2 depending on which emitter is in it.


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## ganymede (May 31, 2011)

I am looking for OTF number for Quark AA^2 on 14500, any pointers?


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## ti-force (Jun 2, 2011)

ganymede said:


> I am looking for OTF number for Quark AA^2 on 14500, any pointers?


 
You can't use two 14500's in an AA-2 body with an AA-2 head. There are two different heads. Low voltage and high voltage. AA, 123 and AA-2 have the same driver and are the same. High voltage head is 123-2 head. You would need either an AA body for 1-14500 or a dummy cell/spacer to use 1-14500 with AA-2 body.


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## ganymede (Jun 2, 2011)

ti-force said:


> You can't use two 14500's in an AA-2 body with an AA-2 head. There are two different heads. Low voltage and high voltage. AA, 123 and AA-2 have the same driver and are the same. High voltage head is 123-2 head. You would need either an AA body for 1-14500 or a dummy cell/spacer to use 1-14500 with AA-2 body.


 
ti-force,

Thanks, I should be a bit more clear on my question, I am looking for the OTF number for a 2x14500 powered Quark AA^2 with a 123^2 Turbo head, you did one on 1x14500 powered Quark AA with a 123^2 Turbo head:


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## DHart (Jun 2, 2011)

ganymede said:


> I am looking for the OTF number for a 2x14500 powered Quark AA^2 with a 123^2 Turbo head


 
The OTF output should be right at the same amount when the 123^2 Turbo head is powered with the 123^2 body and two RCR123 cells. Two 14500 cells give 8.4 volts right off the charger, just the same as two RCR123 cells do. The 14500's will generally yield a bit longer run time than the RCR123s do, however.


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## ganymede (Jun 17, 2011)

Guys,

I am thinking of getting a Turbo 123^2, I am wondering if the stock tail cap clicky can be accidentally activated. Should I look at other tailcap to go with the Turbo? Are the semi-recessed and fully recessed buttons better?

That said, which is your favourite tailcap?

*From left to right: Quark Turbo, Quark Turbo Flat, Quark Tactical and Quark Regular:*


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## DHart (Jun 17, 2011)

I've got all the tailcaps and a wide assortment of different bodies and heads. The tactical tailcapis great if you like to do a lot of momentary use. It's not so great dropped in a pocket unless the tailcoat protrudes out of the pocket. More than any, these days, I like the recessed tailcaps as I use my Quarks indoors mostly and really like to set it down tailstanding on a counter or table for ceiling bounce. The tailcaps are inexpensive enough to have a few different ones available depending on your needs. Overtime, with the lego-ability of Quarks, you will probably have a number of different bodies and heads as well.

The 123x2 body is one of my favorites, running on a 17670 li-ion! Guilt-free lumens over and over and over again. I only use CR123s as emergency backup power supplies.


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## recDNA (Jun 17, 2011)

Excellent thread. Great work!

Now if we can just get them to make a 1.5 amp xm-l head for maniacs like me!


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## DHart (Jun 17, 2011)

Yep... I think 4Sevens has been waaay behind the 8 ball on getting XM-L emitters into the Quarks. That's what took me to the Thrunight Neutron 1A XM-L neutral light, which is a home run light.


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## JA(me)S (Jun 17, 2011)

ganymede said:


> Guys,
> 
> I am thinking of getting a Turbo 123^2, I am wondering if the stock tail cap clicky can be accidentally activated. Should I look at other tailcap to go with the Turbo? Are the semi-recessed and fully recessed buttons better?
> 
> That said, which is your favourite tailcap?


 I love the Turbo Flat: offers the best of both worlds, tailstanding and forward (momentary) clicky. I even like the looks of it better - better balanced. Like DHart, I use 17670s in my 123^2 Turbo Warm - nice set-up!

- Jas.


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## recDNA (Jun 17, 2011)

ganymede said:


> Sorry for bumping this old thread, anyone has the OTF numbers for lego Quark AA^2? Thanks!



You know how dim I am? I saw the first post date was in June and thought it was just a couple of weeks ago! I thought this was a brand new thread. LOL

Does a 17670 fit more easily in a Quark Turbo body than a Quark regular body?


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## ganymede (Jun 17, 2011)

recDNA said:


> Excellent thread. Great work!
> 
> Now if we can just get them to make a 1.5 amp xm-l head for maniacs like me!


 
+1! I made the same comment in their CPF manufacturer thread:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...chance-of-seeing-XM-L-in-a-regular-head-Quark

If David can put an XM-L in the MiniX 123, why not the other models as well?

As DHart said, 4Sevens is really behind in getting XM-L into the Quarks line...


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## Got Lumens? (Aug 5, 2011)

ganymede said:


> +1! I made the same comment in their CPF manufacturer thread:
> 
> http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...chance-of-seeing-XM-L-in-a-regular-head-Quark
> 
> ...


 
+1 I would really enjoy seeing these as well . . .


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## ganymede (Aug 14, 2011)

Guys,

I would like to know whether a Maelstrom G5 or X7 body can accommodate a Quark Regular, Tactical. Turbo or Turbo X head?


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## Got Lumens? (Aug 14, 2011)

ganymede said:


> Guys,
> 
> I would like to know whether a Maelstrom G5 or X7 body can accommodate a Quark Regular, Tactical. Turbo or Turbo X head?





Got Lumens? said:


> No, Sorry it can not .
> the body on the Maelstrom G5/X7 is larger ~25mm. It will accomodate a 18650 cell. The Quarks ~21.8mm.
> GL


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## Zen Ape (Aug 14, 2011)

I bought a Quark Turbo 123*2 sometime ago, and was thinking I might start leggoing as well. It just occurred to me though, I can't use that Turbo head on a 123 or AA body can I considering it is high voltage head and the reduced voltage from one battery won't drive it? And if that is the case, I can then safely assume that the pictures with the Turbo head running on 123 body is the Turbo AA2 model which is a low voltage head?


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## Got Lumens? (Aug 14, 2011)

Zen Ape said:


> I bought a Quark Turbo 123*2 sometime ago, and was thinking I might start leggoing as well. It just occurred to me though, I can't use that Turbo head on a 123 or AA body can I considering it is high voltage head and the reduced voltage from one battery won't drive it? And if that is the case, I can then safely assume that the pictures with the Turbo head running on 123 body is the Turbo AA2 model which is a low voltage head?


 
I have not tried the AA-1 body, the voltages are too low loaded with an AA 1.5V or NiMh 1.2V. 

However it will work fine with the AA-1 battery tube loaded with a 14500 3.7V cell :thumbsup:

It does work well with the 123-1 tube, used it several times. All modes work, you just get a shortened runtime.
GL



. 

 .


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## Zen Ape (Aug 14, 2011)

Got Lumens? said:


> I have not tried the AA-1 body, the voltages are too low loaded with an AA 1.5V or NiMh 1.2V.
> 
> However it will work fine with the AA-1 battery tube loaded with a 14500 3.7V cell :thumbsup:
> 
> ...



Very nice setup. And that's the Turbo head from the 123*2 version? As for my thoughts on the AA body, yes I was fully intending to run 14500, but it was largely for the clip option that comes with that body as the 123 body does not have one. I see you found a workaround on that though. Ultimately I was thinking Turbo head (can I use the one I have or do I need to buy the AA2 version), AA body with 14500 battery, and swap out the clip that comes standard with that body for the new 47's deep carry clip, which I hear works much better with the Turbo head as it backs off far enough to not rub against it.


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## Got Lumens? (Aug 14, 2011)

Zen Ape said:


> Very nice setup. And that's the Turbo head from the 123*2 version? As for my thoughts on the AA body, yes I was fully intending to run 14500, but it was largely for the clip option that comes with that body as the 123 body does not have one. I see you found a workaround on that though. Ultimately I was thinking Turbo head (can I use the one I have or do I need to buy the AA2 version), AA body with 14500 battery, and swap out the clip that comes standard with that body for the new 47's deep carry clip, which I hear works much better with the Turbo head as it backs off far enough to not rub against it.


The regular Turbo 123-2 R5 head is shown, I don't have the AA-2 Low Voltage Turbo head. 
But if you do that will extend your run time, and also will be a tad bit brighter as seen by a light meter or IS. 

The 4 Sevens Deep Carry Clip does seem to work better with the turbo head and the TurboX head as well, on the longer 123-2 and teh AA-2 bodies, IMO.
GL


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## Got Lumens? (Aug 14, 2011)

Here are some setups I tried.
Please note that 4 Sevens does not reccomend this, and I agree.
Using the shorter body of the AA-1, in combination with the Turbo and the TurboX heads, using any of 4 Sevens tails puts the Deep Carry clip out of alignment, and may cause excess stress leading to premature failure of the Deep Carry clip. This setup will also wear away your heads annodizing. 
I was careful assembling these setups to snap a few photos. Notice the angle at which the clip sits against the tail switch. If You must have one of these, it was noted that the regular tail puts less stress on the clip. Please don't try this unless you are willing to sacrifice the Deep carry Clip and your your annodizing on the Turbos head.
GL



 . 

 . 

 .


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## Zen Ape (Aug 14, 2011)

Thanks Got Lumens. Very informative. I'm not crazy about the idea of scratching up the head, but I could live if I broke the clip as I could just replace it. Wondering if a little creative bending might be in order of the lower portion of the clip. How did you manage the clip in your "my pocket rocket" photo?


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## Got Lumens? (Aug 14, 2011)

Zen Ape said:


> Thanks Got Lumens. Very informative. I'm not crazy about the idea of scratching up the head, but I could live if I broke the clip as I could just replace it. Wondering if a little creative bending might be in order of the lower portion of the clip. How did you manage the clip in your "my pocket rocket" photo?


Hi Zen,
Here's my original post: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?312079-First-Couple-4-Sevens-clips-mods
GL


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## Got Lumens? (Sep 25, 2011)

ti-force said:


> **BEAMSHOTS*:* To see beamshots of different Quark lights click here. I would've posted them in this thread, but there are already so many images in this thread.
> 
> 
> Before I begin talking about mixing and matching parts, I’ll mention something that’s very important to remember while mixing Quark parts. *DO NOT* use a Quark low voltage head with a high voltage battery setup. i.e., low voltage head with 2 Li-ion batteries or two Lithium primaries (unless it's 1.5v AA primaries). Just remember, the low voltage head specs are .9v to 4.2v, and the high voltage head specs are 3v to 9v. If you use 2- Li-ion batteries on a low voltage head, the driver will be bypassed and the emitter will get the full voltage and current from the batteries, and in about 5 seconds, it will be lights out for good (don't ask me how I know ). If you mistakenly use less than 3 volts in the high voltage head (2 Alkalines or 1 Lithium primary), you won’t damage anything, but the output is considerably less than when the voltage is between 3 and 9 volts. You also lose the Turbo mode, well you don’t actually lose the Turbo mode, but the High and Turbo modes are the same brightness, so you might say you have two high modes. If you try to use 1 Alkaline battery in the high voltage head, the light won't work at all because the voltage is just too low.
> ...


 


Hi Everyone,
I'd Like to share an easier way to Identify the difference between High Voltage and Low Voltage Quark Heads. As Ti-force has pointed out, This could save you from ing you low voltage Quark Head.
GL


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## rbramski (Oct 10, 2011)

This may sound dumb, but is there anyone who can change the interface on the Turbo X into the regular style interface? I really like the looks of it, but I want to be able to access all the modes quickly. If not I think I will get a Thrunite Scorpion 2 with the turbo head.


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## kreisler (Nov 20, 2011)

i am wondering if anyone managed to compose a tail cap with tailstand AND forward clicky (momentary-on activation)..
the quark tactical has momentary-on but cant tailstand.


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## TurboTalon (Nov 20, 2011)

This

http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_330_342&products_id=1978


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## kreisler (Nov 20, 2011)

TurboTalon said:


> This
> 
> http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=297_330_342&products_id=1978



fits the quark TURBO? ;=)


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## edc3 (Nov 20, 2011)

From the first post of this thread,

"If you have a Tactical Quark, but you would prefer a tailcap with tail standing capabilities, you have two options.
1.) Use a Regular tail cap and lose the momentary on feature.
2.) Purchase a Quark Turbo “Flat” tail cap that has the same forwarding switch, but the housing has been raised to allow for tail standing."

;=)


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## kreisler (Nov 21, 2011)

edc3 said:


> From the first post of this thread,
> ...
> ;=)



shame on me!!
i suck. 

;=)


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## kreisler (Nov 21, 2011)

let's add the exact sizes (dimensions in mm, not inches!) and weights under each photograph


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## LivingDaylight (Nov 29, 2011)

I just ordered the Quark AA-2 "X" Tactical, which is 0.9-4.2 volts.

I'm new to this high quality flashlight business so I just wanted to confirm that I could order an AA-1 or a 123-1 body and be ok?

If I understand correctly a 123-2 body would have too much voltage.

Sorry if this is a n00b question. I didn't see that specific flashlight discussed in the thread.


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## edc3 (Nov 29, 2011)

Yes, you can use both the 1xAA and 1x123 body with the .9-4.2 volt head. You can also use the 2x123 body with a single 3.7v 17670 cell.

:welcome:


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## ti-force (Nov 29, 2011)

kreisler said:


> what this thread (OP) lacks are the exact sizes (dimensions in mm, not inches!) and weights. each photograph should be subtitled with these figures.
> 
> Each.




I live in the U.S. We use the standard system here for most measures. If you would like to convert inches to millimeters, there are 25.4 mm in an inch.


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## kreisler (Nov 29, 2011)

thanks.
i thought you could add the inches and ounces under each of your fotos..

i dont have access to my kitchen scale (0.0g - 5000.0g range) anymore, i only have a sliding caliper.

but it's you hehe who has all the Quark parts!!


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## NH Lumens (Dec 28, 2014)

My EDC light, QTA with QT2L-X Burst Mode head, AW IMR 14500 cell, deep carry pocket clip, DIY finger lanyard.

Astounding output in burst mode in an AA cell size package, though with limited (but adequate for my needs) run time. The original QTA head now resides on a 1L body with tactical tail cap, making it a lego QTLC.


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## Got Lumens? (Dec 29, 2014)

NH Lumens said:


> My EDC light, QTA with QT2L-X Burst Mode head, AW IMR 14500 cell, deep carry pocket clip, DIY finger lanyard.
> 
> Astounding output in burst mode in an AA cell size package, though with limited (but adequate for my needs) run time. The original QTA head now resides on a 1L body with tactical tail cap, making it a lego QTLC.


This is the setup I use also.
One nice affect I like about this new driver is the soft mode changes. This light does not jump between outputs and has a graduated change. Ex. my Tactical is programmed for Medium and Maximum and exhibits a gradual more pleasing aesthetic change between modes.
GL


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## NH Lumens (Dec 29, 2014)

Got Lumens? said:


> One nice affect I like about this new driver is the soft mode changes. This light does not jump between outputs and has a graduated change.



Until you mentioned this, I hadn't noticed. Very cool, thanks for pointing that out!


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## tonywalker23 (Jan 10, 2015)

Can you elaborate? You click to change modes and instead of going straight to different output it "slides" like a house light with a round dimmer switch?


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## Got Lumens? (Jan 10, 2015)

tonywalker23 said:


> Can you elaborate? You click to change modes and instead of going straight to different output it "slides" like a house light with a round dimmer switch?


Yes. A quick smooth transition, not an instant jump between outputs.
GL


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## tonywalker23 (Jan 10, 2015)

Cool! I had a few quarks a few years ago when going gear clearanced the ones with the old logo. 
I looked on their site and didn't see anything mentioning the gradual change. Arevthere any markings etc on the newer ones with the gradual mode change?

How long of a slide is it to the different output?


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## Got Lumens? (Jan 11, 2015)

tonywalker23 said:


> Cool! I had a few quarks a few years ago when going gear clearanced the ones with the old logo.
> I looked on their site and didn't see anything mentioning the gradual change. Arevthere any markings etc on the newer ones with the gradual mode change?
> 
> How long of a slide is it to the different output?


I first noticed this upon using the New Turbo lights that have the improved driver, Both the Pro and Tactical versions. I use a tactical interface with Med/Max settings, and went hugh. It's a timed transition(I'm guessing about 1/3 of a second). So from Moon or Low to Max it spans so much output you don't notice it. This could be the reason for not seeing it mentioned anywhere. But from Med or High to Max or in the Pro changing modes, it is definitely seen. I may be one of the first to notice and document it. I had health issues followed by a computer crash and lost all of my review content before I got to publish my review that included this.
GL


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