# What's the best emergency survival flashlight?



## yalskey (Jan 16, 2007)

What would you guys recommend as the best flashlight to have with you if an emergency caused you to evacuate your home. I'm talking about floods, wire fires, hurricances, etc. Let's say you had to live in the wilderness / urban area for like a week. What flashlight would be best?

Thanks in advance for your advice. I'm trying to put together a awesome emergency survival kit / backpack.


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## Lee1959 (Jan 16, 2007)

In my personal opinion the best light would be an LED headlamp. In a handheld light it would be one of the Lightwave series lights for its super long runtimes and useable output. For pocket I would go with an Inova X1 (old version for low footprint steath uses), or Inova X5. This is strictly personal.


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## Mad1 (Jan 16, 2007)

In an amergency you would want something that is bright but has a long runtime.

Then there is the saying 1 is none 2 is one etc etc. 

I would go for a G2 and an X5 or maybe a Gladius instead of the G2 because of it's strobe function it would be great for attracting attention.


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## vizlor (Jan 16, 2007)

I'd go with 2. One high output and one with really long runtime with very few lumens.


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## Casual Flashlight User (Jan 16, 2007)

One light only - HDS EDC U60 (or the new U120 when it is released) if it had a 2xCR123 tailpack it would be even better.

I always have my Arc-P and HDS U60 on me though...so I'd have at least two in an emergency (as Mad1 rightly says...1 one is none, 2 is one).


CFU


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## MikeSalt (Jan 16, 2007)

Long-Life headlamp, with plenty of spare batteries, and one long throwing retina scorcher for searching / signalling. Again, carry spares.


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## chalshus (Jan 16, 2007)

A headlamp! Then you have both you hand free.


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## FlashInThePan (Jan 16, 2007)

The HDS U60 XRGT.

It's durable, reliable, lightweight, small, and lasts more than 11 days on the lowest standard setting ("lowest standard setting" because there are also 3 lower settings available). And, of course, it can deliver 60 lumens when you need some real brightness. Even better, it's highly efficient and will suck every last bit of juice out of your battery.

Definitely a great "emergency" light. (And even cheaper now that everyone's selling theirs during the CREE upgrade craze...)

- FITP


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## benchmade_boy (Jan 16, 2007)

i would say a surefire E1L.


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## Manzerick (Jan 16, 2007)

What's the best emergency survival flashlight???


The one you have with you


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## Sub_Umbra (Jan 16, 2007)

The *potential secondary threats* that may evolve out of the emergencies you site would cause me to go with mostly very dim lights, probably NV gear compatable, with one bright, tight light for those rare, brief moments when nothing else will do.

 In the dim class I like Covert Photon Freedoms, Old CMG Infinities, Pak-Lites and HDS lights that have been reprogrammed to come on dim and stealthy.

 For the bright one it would depend on how far I had to carry it. 
No matter how many times someone poses a question like this it is still very interesting to hear people's choices.

As Lee implied, personal preference is a huge factor in a question like this.


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## kitelights (Jan 16, 2007)

If you were trying to come up with just one, I'd say eternaLight, but we all know that those of us here would have multiple lights. I agree about a headlight, and of course, if I have pants on, I've got an ARC AAA. With those three I'm set, but I'll add another small light with a bit more throw, like an ARC LS, Fenix or JetBeam, just in case.


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## Valpo Hawkeye (Jan 16, 2007)

I'd say a two-stage light like an L1 or A2. Both have clips so they can be clipped to a hat for handsfree use. The A2 puts out more first stage light than the L1, but the L1 runs seemingly forever on one cell on first stage. The A2 has a more useful high than the TIROS optic L1. I just received my A2 and I can vouch for the kudos thrown its way by so many other users here. 

Spare batteries as also a must. A waterproof match carrier from wal-mart holds two 123's quite well. I also have the Pelican 1010 with 15 123's from www.batterystation.com . It's in my BOB. That's enough light for several days, if not weeks.


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## Paul5M (Jan 16, 2007)

you'll need two (2) lights:
1. Inova 24/7
2. Surefire G3. Yes, I don't have one yet


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## Long John (Jan 16, 2007)

You need 2 Fenix P1D-CE. One for using, the other as spare cell carrier (and for the case, the first will fail).
A few spare cells extra can't be wrong.

Best regards

____
Tom


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## FireFighter05 (Jan 16, 2007)

I carry a GI issue light (the right angle olive drab one) in my emergency pack. It is modded with a 3watt led and I also keep a spare nite ize (sp?) led in the tail cap for longer run time. I like it bc it uses readily available batteries (D cell) and is tried and true as far as being rugged and function. I also keep one of the "Shake lights" (one of the real ones that does not have batteries in it) in the bag. I also have a sf g2 in there for my bright n light.
Dave


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## Bryan (Jan 16, 2007)

Long John said:


> Fenix P1D-CE


 
That would be my choice too. 

I'd also grab my 9P with P91 for searching.


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## nerdgineer (Jan 16, 2007)

For bright light and long runtime, something like the Dorcy 3D 1W. Not regulated but stays above 2000 cd for about 8 hours and puts out light for a lot longer than that. Add a water resistant plastic 2D light with the SMJLED PR bulbs (4 die type) or 2 for usable light for 150+ hours, and some spare D cells.


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## Lee1959 (Jan 16, 2007)

One thing many will forget, or not consider in a survival situation such as Katrina mentioned in the original post is that it is an urban environment during a natural or manmade catastrophe. Sub -Umbra aludes to it with his very low light selections, learned in part, or perhaps better said, reinforced by his own experiences in the said hurricane Katrinas aftermath. 

This means that after dark, the predators will be coming out, no matter how much police and national guard you have posted. If you are caught in such a situation, the last thing you want to do is draw attention to yourself with blazing lights. There WILL be a lot more of them than you, and they will NOT hesitate to take any advantage to get whatever you have they want, and they WILL want anything you have, just because you have it and they do not. 

Low light, low footprint lights such as Covert Photons, Inova X1s (old spotlight version), and even the more more powerful RR 1 and 2 AA lights with the spotlight type beams, will be some of your most useful lights in such a situation.

Just some more food for thought .


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## fishx65 (Jan 16, 2007)

I agree that a headlamp would be the most important. EOS or Apex. I would also include a Pro-poly Lux for a hand held. I would also throw in a nice semi-auto 9mm!


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## greenLED (Jan 16, 2007)

Yalskey, PM sent with some c.r.a.p. advise.

IMO, the CMG Infinity lights are the absolute best lights for survival bags. Small, bombproof construction, waterproof, long runtime, can use whatever type of AA you throw at'em, etc.

Other than that, something like a Streamlite 4AA Propoly Luxeon would be nice. Again, long runtime, uses AA, tough as nails, waterproof, can run on lithium AA's, etc.

Don't forget spare cells.


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## TORCH_BOY (Jan 16, 2007)

Palight surviver


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## Willabbott (Jan 16, 2007)

Well my emergency survival pack, for surviving a minimum of 10 days in the wilderness is equipped only with a Petzl tak-tikka plus headlamp... multiple levels, 3 AAA batteries, red and white light... runs for several days solid before needing batteries, and I carry about 2-3 changes in my pack.

On me at all times are an additional 2-4lights, plus a couple photon freedom microlights.

I would highly recommend a headlamp since in a no power situation it's the easiest to work with hands free... RUNTIME is the priority, and easy access to batteries... the thing I don't like about the petzl is AAA batteries, I would prefer AA's so all my gear was on the same system... I have a test unit we bought from Photon, the Photon Fusion headlamp, and so far am liking it above the petzl, it is larger, however is regulated, has red and white led's, and uses AA batteries. Multiple levels of light, including flashing.

I would highly recommend at least 1 or 2 lights beyond the headlamp, a c/d sized light such as a propolymer 3C (multi led model, not luxeon) or twintask 3C something with a large runtime, and readily available batteries...


Avoid odd cells such as 123's and rechargables. A primary rechargable to allow the light to be used daily is ok, as long as it takes non rechargeable, and they are kept near by.

It's one thing to have 20+ 123's on hand, and think you have enough, but after a week, if your running out, what battery do you think your likely to find at a store or such... AA's they are the most common battery IMHO. I personally would choose a 3C/D light as they run for a while, and cells are cheap... get a big pile of them... then back it up with a couple AA lights, such as a fenix L1P and perhaps a pro-polymer AA or something...

Again runtime is more important than brightness, multiple levels are always a bonus as you have light in reserve. Blinding light is good for more defensive nature, so perhaps one that CAN go fairly bright, perhaps a G2 in reserve for a defensive light, since they are fairly low cost.


I don't think there really is a best light, however there are features in the best lights.

LED - last longer, don't break when dropped, longer runtime
Common battery sizes, C, D, AAA, AA (Best IMO is AA)
RUNTIME - when there are no lights at all, even 5 lumen's is a LOT!, so go for something that will run for days before a battery change, if at all possible.


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## abvidledUK (Jan 16, 2007)

Safelight Superbright and others in their range.

After all, it's what they were designed for.

Used as such by many Government Agencies.

20-100 hours RT can't be bad, not blinding too.

https://www.safe-light.com/detail/pallights.cfm?CFID=4874166&CFTOKEN=64283013


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## thunderlight (Jan 16, 2007)

There is another reason for a Paklite or Palight. Suppose in your emergency situation you could no longer get hold of batteries, but potatoes are readily available. As I understand it, you can use a potato, essentially as a battery. So if you have some wiring, you might be able to use a potato connected to the top of Palight or a Paklite, and then you could eat the potato for lunch. So, the best available light might depend on the nature of the emergency and how many potatoes you could carry.

So how much voltage does a potato supply?


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## Sub_Umbra (Jan 16, 2007)

While cr123s wouldn't be my first choice for all scenarios we could do far worse for cells _that we might have to carry._ They are small, light weight, powerful and they keep well. In an event with a duration as short as a week when the premise would be that one would be on the move I don't think resupply would have to be an issue. It sounds more like a _come as you are party._

More important would be an individual's _'Light Culture'_ (how much light they use to do things, beam shape, etc) and that is what would determine which 123 light(s) chosen. Someone with a dim light culture and an HDS programmed accordingly should be able to avoid resupply problems in most scenarios lasting a week.

A multi level output light (or lights) with light weight cr123s _could be_ a very good choice and lighten the load for someone forced to evac in spite of health problems. This is one of the reasons I try to be well enough prepared so I can stay home when the masses flee. 

People are all so different and the equipment is so diverse that there are probably many different approaches to each situation _that would actually be viable._ That's one reason why this subject is so facinating to me.


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## Campdavid (Jan 16, 2007)

For an emergency kit a headlamp is really essential as you can use it hands free. As for other lights, you should really take a look at the Pak-light. I have everything from a photon to a SF U2 and still think the Pak is a handy little light. Get the "super" with two light levels and the glow in the dark cap. Mine glows on the nightstand all night. I would think that would be useful in a survival situation. Also, get the lithium battery, the damn thing will burn forever!


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## bigfoot (Jan 17, 2007)

The Pak-Lite ("Super" w/white LEDs) has become my favorite disaster/emergency light, thanks to reviews and tips from the great folks here at CPF. Lots and lots of runtime off one 9V battery.

Here's what I've come up with for various scenarios and uses:

Home use: Pak-Lite and 2xAA MagLED
EDC bag: Surefire G2, Inova X1 (new style)
EDC carry: Surefire E1L, Arc AAA-P
Hiking pack/BOB: Petzl Tikka+, Photon Freedom

That gives me lights that run off of 9V, AA, AAA, 123, and button cells. I tried to pair a light that runs off a typical battery along with one that runs off a less popular battery (e.g., a AAA light with a 123 light).

Plus there are a few "floaters" around the house and in vehicles: Maglite 3D, Pelican Super Sabrelite, AA Mini-Mag w/Nite Ize, camping lantern, etc. If I get to the point that I run out of batteries and lights to use, then the brown stuff has really hit the fan big time.


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## Flying Turtle (Jan 17, 2007)

I'd be grapping my long running lights like the Infinity, Arc AAA, Fenix E0, Energizer Folding Lantern and Accent Lights, and the River Rock 2AAA headlamp. Maybe try to get at least one for each battery type.

Geoff


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## nc987 (Jan 17, 2007)

People keep saying you would need multiple flashlights for different uses. I say go with the SureFire Kroma, its like 3 flashlights in one. Runs forever on the colored LEDS and has the main beam when you need to light something up. Best all around flashlight out there IMO.


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## Stingray (Jan 17, 2007)

Lee1959 said:


> One thing many will forget, or not consider in a survival situation such as Katrina mentioned in the original post is that it is an urban environment during a natural or manmade catastrophe. Sub -Umbra aludes to it with his very low light selections, learned in part, or perhaps better said, reinforced by his own experiences in the said hurricane Katrinas aftermath.
> 
> This means that after dark, the predators will be coming out, no matter how much police and national guard you have posted. If you are caught in such a situation, the last thing you want to do is draw attention to yourself with blazing lights. There WILL be a lot more of them than you, and they will NOT hesitate to take any advantage to get whatever you have they want, and they WILL want anything you have, just because you have it and they do not.
> 
> ...



Probably good advice post Katrina in N.O., but it's not necessarily going to be the case after every hurricane, depending on where it hits. After Andrew demolished parts of Miami and it seemed like relief was never going to show up, many neighborhoods banded together with plenty of bright lights, weapons, and organized patrols and watches. These neighborhoods suffered the least vandalism and violence. After Wilma in Ft Lauderdale last year, and during 11 days with no power, we organized with neighbors, stayed armed and looked out for each other and the neighborhood, and kept things lit up at night to deter the bad guys. For the most part we were successful and no one was injured or robbed.


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## tebore (Jan 17, 2007)

I'd pretty much bet my life on my HDS B42 in an emergency situation. It's got a level for everything and it's got the extra 250 click goodies if I need it.


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## Sub_Umbra (Jan 17, 2007)

> Probably good advice post Katrina in N.O., but it's not necessarily going to be the case after every hurricane, depending on where it hits....


IMO emergency preparedness for individuals and families is all about providing one with as many different *options* as possible. If we could see what lay in store for us in the future _there would be no emergencies._ 

In the excellent book, *The Resilient City: How Modern Cities Recover from Disaster,* editors *Lawrence J. Vale* and *Thomas J. Campanella* cite a study that found that in the last 1100 years over 800 cities have been *totally destroyed* by flood, fire, earthquake, volcano, tsunami, war and other things. Some very bad things have happened to many of their inhabitants while they were just trying to get out of town. These events have happened in every part of the world. While it hasn't been mentioned before in this thread many of the terrible things done to these widely varied peoples have been carried out by their own city, regional and national governments in addition to freelance looters and thugs.

I would never bet the future of my loved ones on how well strangers _might behave_ during a crisis.


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## allthumbs (Jan 17, 2007)

I`ve read most of Sub_Umbras Katrina posts and theres a wealth of good info there.
(They should be collected and stickied.) I`m slowly gathering things he recommended.
The lights currently a couple of safe light super brights, a Gerber Recon, and a Eternalight. The Eternalight I belive is much under apperciated. Timer so the battery dosnt die, 13 brightness levels. various strobe, flash, and S O S modes, 700 Hrs. on a 
set of batteries. I roughly figured 15 AA batteries would run it a year, waterproof, floats, its cute. Can`t ask for much more. Its starting to be my EDC. You have to plan
with all options open, evacuate, shelter in place. Plan for all the variables you can, with the ability to change on little notice. Read Sub_Umbras postings use those for your baseline planning. Adapt them to your needs. Good Luck


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## The-David (Jan 17, 2007)

benchmade_boy said:


> i would say a surefire E1L.



+1 for the E1L and Inova 24/7

Same 123A batteries and red for when you need to not draw attention. Plus the Inova 24/7 has a hed strap.


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## Outdoors Fanatic (Jan 17, 2007)

I'd choose three:

- Princeton Tec APEX 
- Streamlight Propolymer Luxeon 3C
- Inova 24/7

And don't forget to bring a pistol with spare mags.


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## lightplay22 (Jan 17, 2007)

HDS would be a must for me and it makes a very nice headlight when clipped to the bill of a cap. Another must for me would be an equalizer for the group that might want to take what I have. (With extra clips of course.)


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## luigi (Jan 17, 2007)

In my opinion Eternalight EliteMax without doubts.
Multiple brightness with insane runtime in the lower modes if needed, locator beacon, SOS and multiple modes that will attract attention for signaling. Uses common AA batteries, can float, shockproof and will resist a lot of abuse. 
Excellent to hang from a tent for reading, cooking etc.
If you make a list of what things are really great in a survival flashlight I'm quite sure the EliteMax can destroy a lot of competition.

I did a mini-review here: http://edcreviews.blogspot.com/2006/10/eternalight-elitemax-4z.html

Luigi


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## DaveG (Jan 17, 2007)

allthumbs said:


> I`ve read most of Sub_Umbras Katrina posts and theres a wealth of good info there.
> (They should be collected and stickied.) I`m slowly gathering things he recommended.
> The lights currently a couple of safe light super brights, a Gerber Recon, and a Eternalight. The Eternalight I belive is much under apperciated. Timer so the battery dosnt die, 13 brightness levels. various strobe, flash, and S O S modes, 700 Hrs. on a
> set of batteries. I roughly figured 15 AA batteries would run it a year, waterproof, floats, its cute. Can`t ask for much more. Its starting to be my EDC. You have to plan
> with all options open, evacuate, shelter in place. Plan for all the variables you can, with the ability to change on little notice. Read Sub_Umbras postings use those for your baseline planning. Adapt them to your needs. Good Luck


 Allthumbs,You hit the nail on the head,Sub and Lee and others around here are a wealth of good info,quite a few having to deal with this stuff first hand.The amount of usefull information around here is great.


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## Gromulus (Jan 17, 2007)

Outdoors Fanatic said:


> I'd choose three:
> 
> - Princeton Tec APEX
> - Streamlight Propolymer Luxeon 3C
> ...


 
Very similar recommendation here:

1) Streamlight ProPoly Luxeon 3C
2) Princeton Tec Apex
3) Inova X1


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## cbxer55 (Jan 17, 2007)

Whatever you have on you at the time.
Best to have one and not need it, than to need it and not have it.
I never leave home without my U-2.
And at least 2 sets of spare batteries.
And a Leatherman Charge and its bits.
And a Benchmade Ruckus.
And a Kimber .45.


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## Glock40 (Jan 17, 2007)

First of all would be a headlamp. For me that would be the PT Quad.

Second would have to be the A2. Runs forever on the LEDs and a nice bringht incan if the need arises. 

But in all honestly we are flash light lovers so the correct answer would be every single light that you own. And every battery that you own


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## Burgess (Jan 17, 2007)

Always great "food for thought" here, when reading threads like this.


And to Sub_Umbra, thank you much for sharing your special insights and experiences.

When you speak, i think that we ALL pay close attention !








Myself, i really like the Princeton Tec Sport Flare,
with a SMJLED-PR bulb installed. (thanks to Nerdgineer for the tip!)

Bought several of 'em, when Camp-Mor still had 'em in stock.
So glad that i did.





Great soft, 360-degree area light. 

Or remove the G-I-T-D rubber cone, and it's a "floody" flashlight.

And with the SMJLED bulbs (alas, no longer available),
runs for 24+ hours on 2 AA alkalines. Very handy, indeed.


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## Lee1959 (Jan 17, 2007)

> Probably good advice post Katrina in N.O., but it's not necessarily going to be the case after every hurricane, depending on where it hits


 
Of course there is no such thing as an absolute when you are discussing disaster planning. However, are you willing to bet your life, the life of those you love, and anyone who depends upon you, on the goodwill and intentions of others/strangers?

Best thing to do, from my point of view, is prepare for the worst, and be happily surprised should it not occur. 



> After Andrew demolished parts of Miami and it seemed like relief was never going to show up, many neighborhoods banded together with plenty of bright lights, weapons, and organized patrols and watches. These neighborhoods suffered the least vandalism and violence.


 
Even in your specific situation, times change, even from month to month, communitiy dynamics and personal interactions change, and the end result could be greatly different should the same situation occur even in the same place. Again, are you willing to gamble everything that people will react the same in every situation and protect you?

No, I say the same thing as I always do about such situations. Plan on the worst, take the best if given the opportunity...


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## Martin (Jan 17, 2007)

Glowrings (GTLS markers) are great. Not exactly flashlights, but marking stuff I grab often avoids flashlight use.


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## MikeSalt (Jan 17, 2007)

My P1D-CE wouldn't leave my side. I disagree with comments that AA batteries would be more available. These are common, so the majority of people will be using AAs, Cs, and Ds in their non-CPF flashlights, which are likely to be poor incandescents, eating up batteries like an Alkaline Alligator. 123s remain the almost sole domain of CPF-type torches. Being that there are not many CPF members in the UK, specialist cells would be in low demand, and therefore high supply.


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## Sharpdogs (Jan 17, 2007)

I strongly agree with greenLED's comments. The Infinity flashlights are tough, great run time and can even double as a headlamp if clipped to a baseball cap. The SL Propolmer uses the same commeon AA batteries. The Propolymer is not the brightest light but should be plenty bright to light up a dark alley or corner to identify a threat. They make a great combination. Both cars and my BOB's have Gerber Infinities and/or Safe-Lights.


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## Lee1959 (Jan 17, 2007)

Mike, 

I wholeheartedly agree with your position on batteries, here is a copy of a post I made on another forum I moderate on the subject of commanlity or diversity of supplies.

It has long been a popular idea that it is better to consoldate certain things into a common item, caliber, battery type etc. I was always of the same mindset in many way, but as of late I have been reconsidering this stand. 

Hearing things out of Katrina and other emergency situations has made me ponder this and I have started to come to the conclusion that in certain areas, it not only makes sense to diversify, but it builds in a natural safety factor. People found that certain items, or sizes went faster than others, D batteries and AA batteries for example, went before AAA, C, and CR123s.

In the case of an emergency, where resupply is not likely , certain popular items will go faster than others. If you limit yourself to one specific caliber or battery, then you severly limit your possiblity of finding that item should you need to. 

Yes, I hear you now, but I will have enough to last me for the next millenium because I only have to stock up one, well, **IT happens, and supplies get lost, destroyed, stolen, confiscated, etc. And saying it wont or cant happen to me, does not stop it. 

Yes, I do agree that buying readily available popular items makes it more likely you will find them, however, adding somethig a bit less popular is not a bad idea and increases your chance of finding that resupply due to lack of popularity. 

Ok, here is an example of what I am saying:

Man X has Rifle caliber .223, Pistol 9MM, Shotgun 12 guage, has several of each for himself and each member of his family, plus a supply of ammunition. Natural disaster hits suddenly, he is unable to move stores out of danger, and they get wiped out in a flood or other catastrophe. He goes to store to find more, he has 3 possible calibers/guages to find ammunition. 

Man Y has Rifle calibers .223 .35 Remington .22 LR, Pistol 9MM, 9MM Makarov, .380 ACP, .357 magnum, Shotgun 12, 16 guages, has several of several different and some single models for himself and member of his family, plus a supply of ammunition. Natural disaster hits suddenly, he is unable to move stores out of danger, and they get wiped out. He goes to store to find more, he has 9 calibers/guages to find ammunition. 

Man Y has more chance at finding some ammunition for at least one of his calibers. Something like the 9MM Makarov would be even more likely to find than other more well known calibers, giving a slight hedge. In part this is because while it is semi-exotic, it is also popular enough as to be fairly common in many sporting goods supplies. 

Same can hold true with batteries. I have started carrying in my stores, AAA, AA, CR123, C, D lights, and batteries for each. The CR123s would last longest on shelves because they are not as well known to the general flashlight public as the others. Just like calibers I find different ones better for different tasks, but, anything is better than nothing which you might end up with if you limit yourself too much. 

What are your thoughts?


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## Sub_Umbra (Jan 17, 2007)

I favor diversity in cells, also. I've noticed that the hardware store near me stocks M/\Gs. When there is a hurricane warning the M/\G AAs and Ds leap out the door, along with cells to fit them. Only THEN do all of the C lights and cells go. I don't buy lights or cells right before a storm but I firmly believe that if you have a bit of everything you may be able to use a bit of everything.


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## TIP AND RING (Jan 17, 2007)

Another nod to the Eternalights. A very impressive, low cost, adaptive, flexible light. The maker was selling the Ergo and Marine models on "Eeek-Bay" for a long time, at below retail pricing. The home brew addition of JB-Weld and strong magnets have turned these into much favored tools.

Another incredible device I've found useful for my Arc and SureFire E series lights is the UBH or "Universal Battery Holder". It allows the use of AA, 123, and CR2 cells with the Arc and SF brands. A VERY nice product, although it still does not raise my opinion of it's ingenuis but often inept maker.


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## Pax et Lux (Jan 18, 2007)

Basically, Sub_Umbra is the one here that knows what he is talking about. I'd advise searching out his survival-related posts in various places on this site. 

I had cause to think over his posts during a three-day power outage (nothing at all the Katrina aftermath, but the closest I ever hope to get to that kind of Hell). I stayed in the house, with my wife and two young children. . . the light we all used above anything else was a Gerber IU - maybe because it's childproof, but also you don't _need_ as much light as you think, regardless of security concerns (which clearly weren't an issue to me). I also used a red $1 keychain light, but I use that all the time anyway. Without electricity, you tend to go to bed soon after it gets dark. That's how it is when you are winter camping.

Had I been outdoors, as your post was indicating. . . I'd have probably used my SS PP 4aa and/or Tikka+ headlamp (and wished I had some kind of common battery format, but the Tikka+ is so small and lightweight). I personally don't see the need for a G2 for self-defence, as I have no training in this area.

I guess it's down to choice - and the size of your emergency backpack. Personally, I EDC the Doug Ritter/AMK Pocket Survival Pack (and a whole bunch of trash bags) and the only space I've got in that is for a $1 keychain. Of course, I EDC a couple of other lights as well. 

I am putting together a larger survival pack for the house - I'm on the West Coast and it's only a matter of time before the next major 'quake hits - but that's more based towards us all staying in my home/backyard. But then, all this depends so much on the individual. Maybe I'd go the backpack route if I lived in an apartment (likely to be structurally unsound after a 'quake) and had nowhere to shelter. . . or maybe I'm down on this idea because I would not be able to get far with young children.

EDIT: Looks like I overlooked *Lee1959* when I wrote the above; no offense meant. Clearly I also need to think of the wisdom of using more than one battery format. . . makes sense over the long-term, with replenishment in mind, where as AA-or-no-way makes sense when you want to start switching cells between different equipment when you are on your own after dark.


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## MikeSalt (Jan 18, 2007)

I've been pondering this one, and I have concluded that the best emergency torch will be of Every Day Carry (EDC) variety. Because, of course, an emergency flashlight that is not on your person is useless if things happen quickly.


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## FAAbUlights (Jan 18, 2007)

If I had to choose just one light to take with me for survival in the wilderness it would be my L2 because it has two modes for extra brightness or nice long runtime. If I were to choose a light that I dont own I would say the surefire Kroma would work very well in any of the suggested situations.


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## yalskey (Jan 18, 2007)

Thanks for all your help guys.

I have picked up 2 Fenix L1T's with the knife special for $98.

I have also bought 2 Gerber Infinity Ultras-M's for about $56

I'm going to Costco tonight to pickup their 2800mah NiMH batteries and charger. I'm also buying some led lanterns that work off of AA. They are similar to the River Rocks (which I can't find at any Targets around me) or the Sylvannia little lanterns.

I'm going to look into some headlamps next. I want AA variety headlamps though.

So I see most people here like the Princeton Tec APEX or the Tikka+... Are those the 2 you guys recommend the most? Again, think survival situation, and AA batteries.

Thanks again for answer my original post 

p.s. I just got my P1D-CE and it is freak'in awesome. Very nice, and crazy bright. It puts my G2 with a P61 lamp to shame!!! And it's a third the size!


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## Martin (Jan 18, 2007)

I would definitely want something colored in my arsenal, because white LEDs attract insects so badly.


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## tibim (Jan 18, 2007)

I don't recommend the P1D CE for "survival" simply because once it does not have enough juice to run medium(1st) mode it will shut off and then you cannot turn it back on into low mode. You are simply left with no light.


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## Long John (Jan 18, 2007)

tibim said:


> I don't recommend the P1D CE for "survival" simply because once it does not have enough juice to run medium(1st) mode it will shut off and then you cannot turn it back on into low mode. You are simply left with no light.



For this case, always carry a backup light, spare cells, a lighter..........but, I use the Fenix P1D-CE always with RCR's and a clickie and after dropping out of regulation (at med or high) I can still immediately click into low mode.

Best regards

_____
Tom


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## firefly99 (Jan 19, 2007)

I think SF L1 being a 2 stage light with a runtime of 90+ hours on low would be ideal. Otherwise a E1L with a tailcap modify for 2 stage would be great too. My tailcap with 22 ohm should last 50+ hours on low.

With a supply of 200~300 CR123 batteries, guess having light for several months would not be an issue.


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## VWTim (Jan 19, 2007)

greenLED said:


> Yalskey, PM sent with some c.r.a.p. advise.
> 
> IMO, the CMG Infinity lights are the absolute best lights for survival bags. Small, bombproof construction, waterproof, long runtime, can use whatever type of AA you throw at'em, etc.
> 
> ...



You just listed what's in my BOB. I like the Infinities as they really do run forever, while the SL PP is mainly for intermittent or signal uses. I've also supplemented those with a few headlamps.


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## Atomic_Chicken (Jan 19, 2007)

Greetings!

I've thought long and hard about this, and here is my recommendation.

Take two lights, not one. A handheld, and a headlamp. I'd choose the following:

Inova 24/7 Headlamp
Surefire Kroma

Now... the 24/7 is pretty much a no-brainer for the headlamp, but you might question why I would choose the Kroma for the 2nd light. Here is the reasoning:

#1 - Uses the same batteries as the Inova 24/7, so you only need to take one kind of spare batteries with you.

#2 - The Kroma has a VERY long runtime (>50 hours continuous) in low-output red or blue... and the blue is actually quite bright and useful even in "low" mode.

#3 - The Kroma has half the lumen output of an L2 or U2, but it is MORE than enough for any kind of nighttime navigation. It also has very reasonable throw and one of the best beamshapes you will find in ANY light.

#4 - The Kroma has a red mode. This is FANTASTIC for two reasons: Animals you might be hunting won't be able to see it, and you WILL be able to see it... and see everything else after you turn the light off because your night vision hasn't been ruined.

#5 - The Kroma, like all other Surefire lights is tough as nails, waterproof, and MORE than grippy enough to keep hold of in wet/miserable/cold conditions.

#6 - The Kroma has a two-stage tactical switch combined with full-white-always-at-full-press, for quick dark-to-full-bright at the push of a button tactical use. Blind a potential opponent before he even knows you have a light - without fussing with various "modes" and other settings like you would need to with most other variable-output-power lights.

#7 - The Kroma just feels GOOD to carry for long periods of time - it's ergonomically a great light.

I think the two lights make a perfect compliment for each other, the Inova 24/7 for hands-free use and beacon/SOS/oddball modes and the Kroma for a truly excellent all-around handheld... those are DEFINITELY the lights I'll grab first if there is ever a major disaster.

Best wishes,
Bawko


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## yalskey (Jan 19, 2007)

I just picked up 2 Princeton Tec Apex headlamps for $65 each.

These seem to be good headlamps in other people's opinions.

The cons are:

1. Of coarse it doesn't run as long as they say it will.

2. Some people have been getting their's with cracks near the screws.

3. Some people say they aren't too waterproof.

What has everyone's experience been with this headlamp?


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## Too_Many_Tools (Jan 20, 2007)

lightplay22 said:


> HDS would be a must for me and it makes a very nice headlight when clipped to the bill of a cap. Another must for me would be an equalizer for the group that might want to take what I have. (With extra clips of course.)


 
You might want to think twice about having a headlamp on if you have a firefight.

People tend to focus on and aim for a light when they shoot in the dark.

TMT


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## The Voice of Reason (Jan 20, 2007)

My first grab is for a SF A2. Attached to it is a battery carrier with spare incan globe.

Backup is a Gladius - variable output level and strobe for emergency.

Extra backup is an L6 + a heap of batteries.

Food and water? Who needs 'em?


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## frogs3 (Jan 21, 2007)

This question points to the BOB concept as much as to a specific light or lights. There is some very sober advice here about maintaining safety, food, etc., for the integrity of the self and family. For lighting, IF there is time, I favor an Inova 24/7, or the T2 in my pocket with long runtimes, along with lots of batteries - which have a long shelf life, so no need for worry. At present, I favor a brighter second light, which will change in the next few weeks as the new emitters find their way into the market, but something very durable like the Surefire Kroma is versatile, but costly, and many people will not have one. An Inova T5 costs less, is waterproof, and has the throw when needed.

The BOB idea is really at the center of this question, and planning is probably more critical than specific items, if the plan is well conceived in advance.

-HAK


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## Mike Painter (Jan 21, 2007)

A flash light is not an important consideration. I lived for over a year near and then on a beach in Baja. I rarely found a need for a light. You went to bed when it got dark and you got up when it was getting light. With no power and no street lights you find that you can see fairly well even with no moon. If you are worried about bad guys, then not having a light just means they are less likely to see you. 
Well Prepared with weeks of batteries?
They will note that when you are the only one with a light after a week or so and take it if they want it.


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## Sub_Umbra (Jan 21, 2007)

> ...Well Prepared with weeks of batteries?
> They will note that when you are the only one with a light after a week or so and take it if they want it.


Only if you let them see it. If you don't let them see it they can't take it away from you. And if you don't let yourself be seen you won't be snatched by anyone from your city, regional or national governments making a political move at your expense in an effort to save their political bacon. This happened in the aftermath of Katrina and in countless examples before that.

Any blanket implication that it's impossible to hide is defeatist *and just plain wrong.* It *does* take thought and preparation, however, which I'll admit rules it out as an option for most. In my experience by the time it ever occurs to most that it may be a good idea to take a lower profile in an emergency *it's way too late.* By then they've already given away their position thoughtlessly and their emergency plan (for those who even had them) was deficient in this regard as it never occured to them that they may ever even want to hide. If you hide first you preserve the option to make your presence known at any time on short notice. If you let everyone know your whereabouts from the get-go it will require *high theatre* to disappear later. Most won't be up to that.


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## qcgoods2006 (Jan 22, 2007)

ooops, no one talk about the GENUINE emergency flashlight??

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lot-of-3-Foreve...QQihZ010QQcategoryZ106987QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Illuminator-3-L...9QQihZ007QQcategoryZ20798QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Camping-Hiking-...QQihZ009QQcategoryZ106987QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## Lit Up (Jan 22, 2007)

If I had to grab a few lights and go and I mean _right now.

_Streamlight 1xAA tasklight: It does all a Gerber IU will do with a brighter setting and strobe. Runtime is there too.
*yawn* but here it goes: Maglite 2D with the 3 watter along with a SMJLED in the cap.
I'd toss a Dorcy 1xAAA in a pocket incase D and AA's got scarce.

I picked the Maglite simply for the drop and go factor. If the circuit board fries on a typical LED light, you're screwed. With the Mag, just pop in another bulb and go. (incan or LED)

Although with Dorcy offering up some drop-in bulbs soon I could possibly leave the Mag behind and just grab the rubberized garritys that float and are waterproof...

I could probably carry the AA and 2D versions of the Garritys for the weight of one 2D Mag. And have the bulb changing ability between my AA and D lights. *Thinks*

Anyways,
I guess the best advice would be to find a light that gets you some runtime and that you can change the bulb out in. Carry a few multicell spare LED bulbs in a case on your person. (Like the aforementioned Dorcys)

Let's say you become seperated from your main light for whatever reason but still have the bulbs on you. If you came across some ransacked store and happened to see a cheap, POS 2D Eveready .99 cent light hanging on the hook next to a long since expired Little Debbie snack, smile, because you're back in business.

The chances of finding a 2D host for a bulb is going to be whole lot easier than running across flashlight LED guts and a soldering iron.


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## NutSAK (Jan 22, 2007)

For my survival kits (BOBs) I, like many others have stated, like the combination of a dim and a bright light:

*Dim:* Infinity Ultra. CMG or Gerber work equally well. The CMG has a more robust construction, but the new Nichia-CS Gerbers are brighter with equal runtime, and are more versatile with the ability to tailstand. The ability to use momentary operation is also a bonus with the Gerber.

*Bright* Without a doubt my favorite is the Fenix L2P. Why? First, because it is a well-built, compact light. Second, because it uses the same cells as the Inifinity Ultra above, so I only have to look for one type of cell if I run out. Third, because the L2P has the best regulation on *any* type of AA cell that I've seen from any Luxeon light, even with alkalines. The ability to tailstand, again, is very important when you might want to use it as a lantern or area light. It also works very well with a Nite-Ize headband for use as a headlamp.

It has also been mentioned by survivors of the Katrina hurricane that a C-cell light might be a good thing to have available, as the C-cells were the easiest battery to find left on the shelf when supplies were getting low. It stands to reason that the AA, D and 9-volt cells would likely sell quicker than Cs, because there are simply more devices that consume them. If you combine this information with Lit Up's excellent suggestions above, a C-cell Maglite might be the ticket.


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## AlexSchira (Jan 22, 2007)

That little C-Cell statistic led me to make a couple 2C Mag-LEDs, since then I've grown to love the form factor, they can truly fit in your pocket despite they're being full-sized and full-powered lights. 

What I grab depends on what kind of emergency we're talking. If bunkering down in my apartment is an option, I'd black out the windows at night in case of crazed civilians and use my dimmer lights. My Safe-lights would be worth their weight in plaitnum with their runtime and obscure but common battery type. I'm also stocked up on enough coin cells that my red Photon Freedom would become my primary light due to the amazing runtime and variable brightness settings. 

If we have to get out of town...I'm shoving all the lights and other tools I have into a relatively small bag, which will go with us in the car along with a sane amount of other possessions. The good thing about having a Bohemian taste for second-hand furniture and clothing...No stupid heirlooms to save, we're not down anything major if this building gets trashed, everything important to us fits in a few duffel bags. For me, it's mostly things that really pull their weight in an emergency, things we both know how to use. For her, a few knick-knacks no one would really want to steal, clothing from our shared closet, and her usual bag of make-up. 

Not only would we be set for whatever goes down because of my hobby, but my girlfriend would still be able to draw on her eyebrows every day. You have no idea how grateful I am for that, without those things I have no clue if she's being sarcastic or flirty. 

We're in Chicago, pretty in-the-clear for natural disasters. We never even have long power outages, let alone anything big enough to drive everyone off the deep end. 

Then again...If the Bears don't pull this off...Well, let's just hope I can make it out of town at half-time if things get bad enough. 

Special thanks to SharpDog and MattK for the Safe-lights and Freedoms.


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## Lit Up (Jan 27, 2007)

AlexSchira said:


> That little C-Cell statistic led me to make a couple 2C Mag-LEDs, since then I've grown to love the form factor, they can truly fit in your pocket despite they're being full-sized and full-powered lights.



Yup. Mags certainly aren't the greatest in technological advancements of flashlights as of late, but their genius lies in simplicity. You can have parts to completely rebuild one on the cheap with just an allen wrench.
They employed the K.I.S.S. principle and it works well.

Everybody should own at least one.


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## Turbo DV8 (Jan 27, 2007)

yalskey said:


> Let's say you had to live in the wilderness / urban area for like a week. What flashlight would be best?


 
The biggest one possible. Take out the guts and cram it as full as you can with food, water and matches!


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## Greenlead (Jan 28, 2007)

Nite-Ize Mini-Maglite with a brick of AA cells.


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## Newuser01 (Jan 28, 2007)

Any light at all that would work.
It could be old 2D incan or what ever. But as long as it worked and you have it than it is the best light for survival. 
You have a $1,000 light and if that did not work, than its not the best emergency survival light. Not even close.

My 2 lights.
Noob.


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## AndyTiedye (Jan 28, 2007)

AlexSchira said:


> That little C-Cell statistic led me to make a couple 2C Mag-LEDs, since then I've grown to love the form factor, they can truly fit in your pocket despite they're being full-sized and full-powered lights.



C sized lights and C-to-AA adaptors mean you can use either size battery.


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## AndyTiedye (Jan 28, 2007)

Does anyone make dummy D cells with storage inside?


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## search_and_rescue (Jan 28, 2007)

Mike Painter said:


> A flash light is not an important consideration. I lived for over a year near and then on a beach in Baja. I rarely found a need for a light. You went to bed when it got dark and you got up when it was getting light. With no power and no street lights you find that you can see fairly well even with no moon. If you are worried about bad guys, then not having a light just means they are less likely to see you.
> Well Prepared with weeks of batteries?
> They will note that when you are the only one with a light after a week or so and take it if they want it.


 
Hear, hear. Better advice was never given. I'd probably get a E1L or L1 Lumamax for this type of emergency situation. Or another one of those Energizer red/white led headlights from Wal-Mart. My Pelican 2390 would just make me stand out as a target. "Hey, there's a guy who can blow $100 on flashlight, let's go get him!"


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## Illum (Jan 28, 2007)

AndyTiedye said:


> Does anyone make dummy D cells with storage inside?



once used a 35 mm canister wrapped in shipping foam, an extension spring and a lead wire to store cash in my Mag 3D....
that would be nice though, better yet a 3D dummy cell to store goodies in a 6D that runs on a MagLED 3 cell

My PKG: surefire A2, inova X5, Pak-lite basic

there is no such thing as "best emergency survival _flashlight_" only "best emergency survival _flashlights_"

Two is one and one is none, everywhere that murphy's law applies to...its better to have one [or a couple] of spares :thumbsup:


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## AndyTiedye (Jan 28, 2007)

thunderlight said:


> There is another reason for a Paklite or Palight. Suppose in your emergency situation you could no longer get hold of batteries, but potatoes are readily available. As I understand it, you can use a potato, essentially as a battery. So if you have some wiring, you might be able to use a potato connected to the top of Palight or a Paklite, and then you could eat the potato for lunch. So, the best available light might depend on the nature of the emergency and how many potatoes you could carry.
> 
> So how much voltage does a potato supply?



Is a Paklite a 1xPotato or a 2xPotatoes?


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Jan 28, 2007)

I am rather amazed at how many of you recommend multi-level lights.

What ever happened to KISS?

The TEC40 with a few extra bulbs (based on how bright you want it etc.) is darn near bomb proof.

The older SL 3C 10LED with push/twist again is pretty simple and bomb proof.

I don't even 100% trust the M*glite clickie!

Think in terms of Keep it simple stupid!


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## paulr (Jan 28, 2007)

Don't forget redundancy. Except for the 2D Eveready I don't think anyone yet has mentioned a light costing less than 10 bucks or so. That 10 bucks will get you *twenty* Fauxtons. I certainly think a bag full of Fauxtons (at least ten of them) should be in everybody's stash.


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## benighted (Jan 28, 2007)

In a survival situation you could use your ROP or mag85 to light a fire


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## HighLight (Jan 28, 2007)

I was pondering this question for a minute when I opened my eyes and saw the CPF Safelight Picture at the top of this page..lol


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## fleegs (Jan 28, 2007)

For emergency- I try to lean toward one cell lights so I don't have to worry about mixing batteries. I try to diversify in terms of battery types (After reading about how certain batteries fly off the shelf). I try to get lights that tail stand for indoor use. I prefer white light (One color light messes with my head). I tried the eternalight approach and did not prefer it due to flickering on lower levels and the difficult battery change. I thought a lot about what Sub posted (previously) about using single color light for stealth but I decided (developed from his previous suggestions) to make one room to be like a black hole. Then the other rooms would be off limits to anything producing light. If that was necessary. 

My lights of choice (and I am still looking and learning): HDS B42, Fenix E0, Surefire M3T (searchlight), E2E (LOLA), Safelight, Pak-lite (two stage), CR2 Ion, Mag LED 2XAA, Coast 3XAAA red/green/blue/white, Gatlight V2, McLux III PD, VB-16 (V1). I hope to use the crap lights in an emergency so if someone took them, it would not create another emergency.

What I need to get- Water filter (the one Sub uses), Mag LED C (from reading this thread), patience (any suggestions?), Inova X5 (from reading this thread), a cree light that has extended runtime (still looking).

I love these type of threads.


rob


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## wakibaki (Jan 28, 2007)

I can't believe nobody's mentioned shelf life. 

Lithium primary cells are the cells of choice where this is concerned. Plus they have good energy density.

NiMh cells may be a poor choice because they lose charge quickly even if not used. This may not be a consideration, but it depends what kind of emergency application you're talking about. 
w


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## fleegs (Jan 28, 2007)

For emergency- I try to lean toward one cell lights so I don't have to worry about mixing batteries. I try to diversify in terms of battery types (After reading about how certain batteries fly off the shelf). I try to get lights that tail stand for indoor use. I prefer white light (One color light messes with my head). I tried the eternalight approach and did not prefer it due to flickering on lower levels and the difficult battery change. I thought a lot about what Sub posted (previously) about using single color light for stealth but I decided (developed from his previous suggestions) to make one room to be like a black hole. Then the other rooms would be off limits to anything producing light. If that was necessary. 

My lights of choice (and I am still looking and learning): HDS B42, Fenix E0, Surefire M3T (searchlight), E2E (LOLA), Safelight, Pak-lite (two stage), CR2 Ion, Mag LED 2XAA, Coast 3XAAA red/green/blue/white, Gatlight V2, McLux III PD, VB-16 (V1). I hope to use the crap lights in an emergency so if someone took them, it would not create another emergency.

What I need to get- Water filter (the one Sub uses), Mag LED C (from reading this thread), patience (any suggestions?), Inova X5 (from reading this thread), a cree light that has extended runtime (still looking).

I love these type of threads.


rob


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## thunderlight (Jan 28, 2007)

Hi AndyTiedye,

This was just a comment on the general uncertainty in determining what kind of issues you might face in a true emergency. You can do some very good planning, but you just don't know what you're going to face. It was also meant in jest as this question shows up constantly and there are reasonable steps to take, but you can't prepare for everything. You probably want to think about what kind of emergencies might arise in your area or your workplace, etc.


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## AndyTiedye (Jan 28, 2007)

Too_Many_Tools said:


> You might want to think twice about having a headlamp on if you have a firefight.
> 
> People tend to focus on and aim for a light when they shoot in the dark.
> 
> TMT



Then you want a light that can hover several feet away from you.
Can you mount a light on one of those R/C helecopters?


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## Bockel (Feb 17, 2007)

wakibaki said:


> NiMh cells may be a poor choice because they lose charge quickly even if not used. This may not be a consideration, but it depends what kind of emergency application you're talking about.


 
*eneloop* are the new NiMH batts from SANYO. They claim to hold 85 % of the charge after one year! They sell them precharged. For now, they are only AA size.

http://www.eneloopusa.com/home.html 

You can charge them in any conventional charger (think solar!)
Therefore, single AA lights are a must.


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## GeorgePaul (Feb 17, 2007)

AlexSchira said:


> We're in Chicago, pretty in-the-clear for natural disasters. We never even have long power outages, let alone anything big enough to drive everyone off the deep end.


No place is safe from natural disasters. Not Chicago. Not anywhere else.


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## Badbeams3 (Feb 17, 2007)

In my case an emergency would probably be storm related...and result in power outages...not lost deep in the woods...don`t hike much. Tampa, Florida...so I would probaby be fine with my L1D-CE and L0D-CE. The long run time/bright output on the low settings should be enough for most tasks like cooking a meal on the barb or finding a bottle of vodka from the kitchen....and playing cards while waiting for the power to come on or the insurance folks to show up to translate my policy and explain why my wrecked home/storm damage is excluded.:huh:


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## Sub_Umbra (Feb 17, 2007)

Both physically *and* psychologically prepared...


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## BentHeadTX (Feb 17, 2007)

I have two specific lights that others have not mentioned (odd?) A Fire~FlyIII that normally runs RCR123 li-ions also runs on CR123A primary lithiums but at a much dimmer rate. At the lowest programmable level it will run 200 hours on a primary. At that level, it is very, very dim but that is what I would want if inside a building in hiding. I have a 10 pack of CR123A batteries in a drawer for that purpose.

Also have an old Arc AAA with black HA-III that uses a RED LED. To keep it running dim, I use a NiMH AAA cell that I recharge with a Maha charger with a 12V adapter. Have spare alkalines in remotes/MP3 players and a package of AAA lithiums laying around. 

Also have bicycle lighting I can use in a pinch. L1D CE helmet lights, red rear flashers on my bike and L1P/flashers on my families bikes are good doners.


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## Sub_Umbra (Feb 17, 2007)

BentHeadTX said:


> ...A Fire~FlyIII that normally runs RCR123 li-ions also runs on CR123A primary lithiums but at a much dimmer rate. At the lowest programmable level it will run 200 hours on a primary...


Wow, that's cool. I had no idea they were that flexible.


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## woodrow (Feb 17, 2007)

I would want something that runs on AA's with the ability to use Lithium AA's for their ability to work well below 0 deg and above 120 deg. I would also want it to be very tough. I bought a Heliotek but it had a magnetic switch that went out on me after a few days.

I just bought a Energizer hardcase tactical light for emergency use. It survives a 20-30' drop test. Has red and blue and IR leds that can last over 70 hours on lithiums. It will float. It also has a 1 watt lux led for decent illumination for 8 hours. The adjustable angle head is nice if you need to set it on a table/roadway and it also has a sturdy belt clip.

I like the fact that you can throw the light and 8 pack of lithium AA's in a jacket pocket and have light for over a week or more. Just my .02


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## ILL-Luminated (Feb 17, 2007)

The 1kW Xenon Arc Tank Light is my first choice, no problem seeing or being seen.












https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/92396&highlight=tank





Since THAT isn't "back-packable" though, your best bet is a couple of Pal lights on lanyards and an 8-pack (or however many pack) of 9 Volts from COSTCO, BJ's, etc. A half million sold speaks volumes as to its simplicity and elegance in meeting your needs in an emergency. Remember the K.I.S.S. principle when it comes to survival. Also keep in mind "Planning is essential, plans are useless". I congratulate you for making the effort to be ready for an emergency. I need to get my own act together in this arena.

Check out https://www.safe-light.com/index.html for the Palight. The versatility and run time as has been pointed out numerous times previously
makes this light an easy choice for serious consideration.

Also checkout 
http://www.redcross.org/services/disaster/0,1082,0_583_,00.html for additional Disaster tips. They have great printable check lists to use as guides, and they're VERY helpful in educating your family as to what to do in an emergency. Something else worth considering for your backpack. Kudos and good luck


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## Illum (Feb 17, 2007)

ILL-Luminated said:


> The 1kW Xenon Arc Tank Light is my first choice.



as a survival light? :thumbsdow


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## ILL-Luminated (Feb 17, 2007)

No, as humorous anecdote or remark intended to provoke laughter.


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## pizzaman (Feb 18, 2007)

I just can't bring myself to accept the limit of one light. 

Here are my current faves for this scenerio:

Princeton Tech Quad Head light- A source of steerable hands-free lighting cannot be underestimated.

Inova X5T- Long running flood light for all-around work/walkabout/pocket pocket carry.

MagLED 2C with sputtered reflector- Large area worklight.

TR


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Feb 18, 2007)

We had a nearly two hour power outage this evening.

Two Energizer 4D 2Tube lanterns, and two M*gled (a 2C and a 2D) pointed at the ceiling got us by. I put on a River Rock 2AAA Headlight to read by.

I have plenty of SMJLED PR stuff if the outage runs longer...


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## Brangdon (Feb 19, 2007)

Mike Painter said:


> A flash light is not an important consideration. I lived for over a year near and then on a beach in Baja. I rarely found a need for a light. You went to bed when it got dark and you got up when it was getting light.


Around here in winter it gets dark at 5pm and light at 8am, for about 3 months. Worse in the middle month. So I'd be in bed for 15 hours a day.


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## Lobo (Feb 19, 2007)

Brangdon said:


> Around here in winter it gets dark at 5pm and light at 8am, for about 3 months. Worse in the middle month. So I'd be in bed for 15 hours a day.


 
I live in the middle of Sweden, quite a bit north of you, and rarely use a flashlight. Even when there is no power, there is often enough ambient lightning from the moon and reflections from the snow etc to go by in the winters, with dark adapted eyes. I thinks flashlight carrying is a lot like carrying a cell phone. A decade ago when you didnt have one, you we're fine, but after getting used to carry on, you cant imagine what you would do without it. Sure, a flashlight can make life much easier, but imho they are not that essential as many cpfers seems to think, like warm clothing, compass, good knife etc for survival.


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## Sub_Umbra (Feb 19, 2007)

Depending on your location, the climate and your health you may very well find that, for example, it could be much too hot for some tasks that might normally be carried out during the daylight hours if the power is down and there is no AC. In many other locales and situations the weather may work against you for days at a time and when one _finally_ has the opportunity to accomplish a 'mission critical task' one may only hope that one will have everything it takes to succeed -- including the light.

Also while it is often _possible_ to accomplish a wide variety of tasks without light, in an emergency time is often of the essense. Participants will often be trying to accomplish the normal things they need to do to maintain the lives of themselves and their family but many of these simple things will not only be more time consuming and labor intensive than they are in non-emergency times, but worse yet, the actual mechanics of these tasks will generaly be unfamiliar or at the very least _much less familiar_ to those performing them.

Bear in mind that the above considers _only the routine, day to day activities_ which must be accomplished on a more or less continuing basis during an emergency. The above _in no way_ considers the fact in general whenever we have people doing _tasks that they are unfamiliar with -- often using tools that they are unfamiliar with --_ there is a much higher likelyhood of having accidents -- both minor and major -- which will require, at the very least, _some_ medical attention. Depending on circumstance, your party may be your sole source of medical care.

Most medical situations require light to _evaluate and resolve._ It is probable that along with some rare security tasks preparedness for both minor and major medical emergencies _caused by unfamiliar activies in the course of a larger emergency_ will require the brightest light(s) you will likely need to use *for the entire duration of the greater crisis.*

I have personally had years of training at accomplishing somewhat complex tasks in no or very little light but for me (and mine) it would be a terrible idea to decide ahead of time that since I occasionally do things in the dark or with very minimal light that I should just plan on performing the same way during a crisis.

The idea of being forced to wait until daylight _the next day_ to find an object in someone's eye sounds like a good enough reason to be better prepared. If I choose I may always _elect_ to use sharp and/or dangerous tools while doing unfamiliar tasks in the dark or low light in a crisis -- but I will not be forced into that kind of behavior simply because I never thought I'd need light _so I didn't provide it for myself._

YMMV


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## Martin (Feb 19, 2007)

Lobo said:


> ...I thinks flashlight carrying is a lot like carrying a cell phone. A decade ago when you didnt have one, you we're fine, but after getting used to carry on, you cant imagine what you would do without it...



A decade ago there were still working public phones. Now they are mostly vandalised and not maintained, because everyone has a cellphone anyhow.

I bet we're nearing a time when streetlights become rare because everyone just has a flashlight. And if that could save some money, they'd even shut down the moon. We do need flashlights !


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## flashy bazook (Feb 19, 2007)

you don't need a headlamp! just have a *headband* available that can handle your main EDC light. Say one that handles AA batteries formfactor (Nite Ize) so you can go with your Fenix LxD CE/Lumapower M3 or whatever AA battery formfactor (1xAA or 2xAA depending on your preference) you have chosen. This one light can handle multiple tasks because it can be used on low or higher settings.

then, have a glo-toob (buy them after April, when the new lithium versions come out) that can put out the strobe/SOS function and serve as a marker for you and even as a small lantern in a pinch. That way you don't have to commit your EDC to such a function as you are likely to be needing it for other things.

then a bigger light with long runtime - for example, the streamlight propoly LED (version with 10 LEDs) says it has 336 hours of useful runtime and uses common batteries (3xC).

these cover most needs. Of course, if you are not alone in this post-catastrophic wilderness but with others, you can carry more (at least one more) light. I would then say you can have more CR123A lithiums available, why not the outdoors oriented, relatively strong throw, Lumapower M1.
all of these lights are tough, water resistant (at least), and of course use (and should use!) LEDs which wont' burn out on you (so rule out the Surefire A2 aviator on this factor alone!).


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## cutlerylover (Feb 19, 2007)

What's the best emergency survival flashlight? 

The one you have on you in an emergency....


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## Patriot (Feb 19, 2007)

Some good advice in here. I believe he did say flashlight, as in singular, although I can rarely be caught with only one on me. Like a few of the CPFers said, "the best light is the one that you have with you." Honestly, I can't imagine walking around with a two pound maglight in a survival situation. I mean..besides,who carries one of these on their person while on the job, or going to Blockbuster or the supermarket? Same goes for a headlamp as a primary. Who wears one of these around their head at the gas pump or even shoves one in their pocket when heading out the door???

I'd say a U2 or a Kroma. The U2 throws a bit better, the Kroma has even longer light output. They're both tough, reliable and lightweight which means that you're more likely to be carrying it when the unexpected emergency happens. I wouldn't worry about 123s being hard to come by unless you're talking about a prolonged disaster event of weeks or more, say you're in a remote area or island likely to see a huricane event. 

The advantage of lithium batteries "ready to go" in your EDC light far outweighs the scenario of being able to buy a value pac of AAs at a Circle K near the end of a 30 day nuclear power plant disaster..lol Most survival experts believe that equiping for a 72 hour period is sufficient for most situations depending on where you live. 

If you had the luxury of a 2nd light, a P1D-CE would be nice to have and the batteries are interchangable with your main light. A headlamp would make a nice 2nd also, provided it also took 123s.


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## x2x3x2 (Feb 19, 2007)

My vote would be for the CMG Infinity Ultra with Energizer Lithiums 

Tested and proven for myself anyway while i was in the army.
Survived being thrown a few meters landing on steel platforms (many times, cos we were plain lazy to pass it around), dropped into thin and thick mud, left in high temperature environment, dropped in a toilet bowl (only once ), getting stomped with boots, and perhaps a few other incidents i can't recall at the top of my head.

I would not go for those lights like Surefire U2 which have more electronics thus more chances to crap out. Also preferable twisty to clicky.
If u were to give me a choice of the most expensive Surefire or other brand lights which advertise their durability, for an emergency situation i would still go for the CMG Ultra due to its simplicity and 12+ hour runtime. However if u need a high output light, Surefire or Streamlight stuff would be a good choice.

That being said, i dunno of any place currently still selling the CMG design. How does the Gerber version stand up?


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## AlexSchira (Feb 19, 2007)

This thread just convinced me to add LED drop-ins to my emergency kits, being able to 'deputize' cheap lights into long running emergency lights is a genius idea, whether you're helping out a neighbor in a blackout or on the run from alien-built tripod robots.


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## Metrotex (Feb 19, 2007)

IMHO my main criterea is battery availability and the ability to rob from one peice of equipment to power another. You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a AA battery in this world. 5 hours from civilization and you come across Floyds bait and tackle? I'd bet a paycheck he's got AA's, do you think he'd have CR123's on the shelf? Major disaster and the neighborhood has to rally together, I'd bet a paycheck every house on the block has a few AA's, remotes, cameras, small radios etc... Right now how many of your neighbors do you think have CR123's in the door of their fridge?

All of my emergency survival gear is AA, Fenix L2P, PT Surge flashlight, GPS,VHF ham rado,CB radio,GMRS radio,SW/AM/FM radio. Right there is 30 AA batteries that can be mixed and matched if one of the units loses power.

Thats not to say I don't have CR123 stuff, but the stuff I have to depend on is AA.


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## paulr (Feb 20, 2007)

Spend $4.70 including shipping and get a ten-pack of Fauxtons from Dealextreme.


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## flashy bazook (Feb 20, 2007)

I hadn't thought of the CMG Infinity Ultra until green light and x2x3x2 mentioned them - and when such experienced flashaholics agree on something like this, it makes sense to listen!

I checked them out on flashlightreviews.com, they get relatively low ratings. I guess part of it is they put out relatively weak light which could be good for some needs but then fall short for others.

lots of lights also claim to be tough and durable, the glo-toobs in particular are said to be nearly indestructible (though again put out relatively little light - may be more in the lithium versions, wait till April to find out), and most LED lights are supposed to be able to survive drops, falls, etc. Surefire in their website has some claims like "I went down the mine, my flashlight dropped 30 feet down some shaft, kept working no problem".

but, again, the CMG Infinity formfactor is a very small one, may be worthwhile to have one of those in a pocket somewhere just in case...


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## thiswayup (Feb 20, 2007)

Metrotex said:


> IMHO my main criterea is battery availability and the ability to rob from one peice of equipment to power another. You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a AA battery in this world. 5 hours from civilization and you come across Floyds bait and tackle? I'd bet a paycheck he's got AA's, do you think he'd have CR123's on the shelf?



Running on easy to find cells would be at the top of my list too. I'd also want good water proofing, and regulation and multiple brightness levels to extend runtime. The light would definitely have to be LED for toughness. A headlamp might be nice, but no one seems to doing a Cree headlmap yet. A Fenix or Jetbeam would be the main non headlamp option.


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## Windscale (Feb 20, 2007)

I will never go anywhere primitive without my 5-LED winder light. It needs no batteries and can switch on 1, 3 or 5 LEDs on demand. It is about just smaller than a packet of 20 cigarettes. When you have run out of batteries it is no good having your Surefires, Fenixes etc. Of course I would also have many cheap Protons (made in China ones, which are much cheaper and just as good as the genuine ones) clipped to all the bags and zippers. Fingers crossed. I never had to use these yet.


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## Lobo (Feb 20, 2007)

Martin said:


> A decade ago there were still working public phones. Now they are mostly vandalised and not maintained, because everyone has a cellphone anyhow.
> 
> I bet we're nearing a time when streetlights become rare because everyone just has a flashlight. And if that could save some money, they'd even shut down the moon. We do need flashlights !


 
Is it that bad in Germany? Where do you live? I haven't been there for a while, but it was a nice place when I last visited. No problem getting a public phone in Sweden, though I can imagine that they dont need as much maintenance anymore since everyone has a cellphone.
But the scenario where everyone carries a flashlight?  Not very likely. But would be much more fun to be a flashoholic then, imagine going out at night and everything is dark except for cars and people carrying torches.


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## PlayboyJoeShmoe (Feb 20, 2007)

My original CMG Infinity Ultra and my old oroginal Arc AAA are two lights I'll never sell and hope to never loose!

As I said above I have enough LED 2AA stuff to get me a looooong way....


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## Burgess (Jul 29, 2007)

So many *great ideas* in this very interesting thread.


Anybody have any more comments and tips ?


Hurricane season is here, for folks on the coast.


And in the Midwest, it is Tornado season.


If anybody knows about "the best emergency survival flashlight", it would be us. 



For my recommendation, it'd hafta' include a Fenix L1D-CE (or the 2-cell model, L2D-CE).

On LOW level, even the 1-cell model runs 20 hours on plain ol' Alkalines.

And that Low Level is *Plenty Bright* for lots of uses.


Amazing efficiency by those Fenix engineers. :thumbsup:


Anyone else ? ? ?

-


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## fieldops (Jul 29, 2007)

I agree on the new Fenix's being good choices. While not as robust as surefire, they have alot of versatility with the different modes. I like the P3D for its runtime and the L2D for its AA usage. The L2D may actually be the better choice because of the AA cells. I used to be a big advocate of the Infinity Ultra lights because of their runtime. I still like them , but am forced to admit that role has been captured by the fenix. I hear some of the Novatac/HDS lights are really efficient on low as well. Good choices all.


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## knot (Jul 30, 2007)

yalskey said:


> Let's say you had to live in the wilderness / urban area for like a week. What flashlight would be best?



I'd probably want a lantern then.


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## Robocop (Jul 30, 2007)

I have to agree with the many here who recommend the old school Ultra-Gs or the plain old Ultras by Infinity. The ones made before Gerber took over are the best in my opinion. I remember a time when we had these available for 15 dollars I believe. I bought several of the Ultra-Gs and I have to say after years of collecting it is the Ultras I go back to when I need a dependable light.....They simply are that good.

I know many runtime tests have been done however I swear it seems on a Lithium AA cell these lights will run for weeks without fail. In my mind no question I would grab my Ultra-G without thought......I love these lights to this day after all others have came and gone.


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## 270winchester (Jul 30, 2007)

Robocop said:


> I have to agree with the many here who recommend the old school Ultra-Gs or the plain old Ultras by Infinity. The ones made before Gerber took over are the best in my opinion. I remember a time when we had these available for 15 dollars I believe. I bought several of the Ultra-Gs and I have to say after years of collecting it is the Ultras I go back to when I need a dependable light.....They simply are that good.
> 
> I know many runtime tests have been done however I swear it seems on a Lithium AA cell these lights will run for weeks without fail. In my mind no question I would grab my Ultra-G without thought......I love these lights to this day after all others have came and gone.



what he said. I gave both my parents as well as my girlfriend an Ultra-G each. they'll work whenever they are needed.


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## gramanam (Jul 30, 2007)

I would have to say four lights.

1. A headlamp like the Princeton Tec Eos (with seoul so you can use it on the low level more) so you can do things with your hands.

2. CMG infinity, because it runs practically forever and is very small.

3. A fairly unknown light, the Princeton Tec attitude because it runs for a very long time and would make a nice general use light.

4. A brighter light like the Surefire E2L because it it bright, throws fairly well, and has a nice runtime.


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## paulr (Jul 30, 2007)

The Ultra-G is old tech and its performance (lumen-hours per battery) could be exceeded considerably today, but yeah, they are simple and solid and were relatively cheap. It's as reliable a choice as anything made today that doesn't cost a heck of a lot more. Runtime on a lithium AA is probably in the 24 hour range before it gets pretty dim.

I agree with the suggestion of handsfree lights though, they are just invaluable. If you have an Ultra-G with a pocket clip (not all of them came with a clip) then you can clip it to a cap brim, if you've got a ballcap. I've gotten interested in the new Ray-o-vac and Zebralight 1aa headlamps but haven't seen them yet.

I gotta say that if I were in the woods for a week I'd consider water and food to be much higher priority than flashlights. A Photon II (or this $1.50 clip-on light) would probably be enough flashlight.


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## Draz (Jul 30, 2007)

im currently buying a Kroma in the b/s/t section and I choose this because of the versatility. I don't "own" one atm but I have read countless reviews of it and this is my conclusion.

1. Red for night vision, blue for tracking, and a nice 50 lumen blast for "extra light" or "tactical" if the need arises.
2. It's a surefire ("To hell and back reliability"..it's been proven)
3. It's a surefire
4. I don't like the fact that its an "exotic" battery type but they do have a shelf life of 10 years.

I have a couple Inova X1 (new style) in my bug out bags simply because of the 1AA it runs off of. Couldn't find a dedicated "red led" for my collection so picked up the Kroma, I couldn't justify buying a red L1, who needs a whole dedicated red light, Kroma or A2 fixes that problem. Kroma edged out the A2 in my purchase decision for the fact that in a survival situation or TEOTWAKI, I don't need to worry about the chance of having to replace an Incan lamp.


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## GreySave (Jul 30, 2007)

I think you will like your Kroma. Mine sits on the night stand and is regularly used.

Try the low white for night use as well. It is very low and I find it almost equal to the red in preserving night vision while providing more detail. The red or blue will give you a nice flood and low white has a beam that is probably just wide enough to walk with. Where low white really shines is with its surprising amount of throw for less than one lumen of output. Use of low white should also get you the most run time based upon tests done by users here (35-50 hours if memory serves me correctly).


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## pec50 (Jul 30, 2007)

I will echo some of the previous remarks and also add that in a dire environment, physical and physiological changes (fight/flight) will alter your perception and abilities. Because one's focus becomes "tunneled", first responders continually practice to establish desired behaviors and see the "big picture" scene safety issues. Unless you train in that world, I would recommend simple long-lived waterproof lighting that will facilitate navigation, allow you to use your hands as needed, and not require near-term maintenance, such as changing batteries. I avoid metal-bodied lights for extreme environments as they are heat/cold conductors. I would definitely go with a robust headlamp, perhaps the EOS, Quad, or a headband and a lightweight waterproof light, such as an Attitude. Toss in a few small light-adjustable red/white photons, or other low intensity lights that can clip to your clothing, and you have adequate backup lighting and for those times you wish to preserve your night vision.


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## Hans (Jul 30, 2007)

The best light is the one you carry when things go wrong. For me that means small lights as I wouldn't really want to carry a large light on an everyday basis. So I rely on a HDS B42 (plus two spare primaries), a Fenix LOD CE (plus four spare Sanyo AAA Eneloops), and a Peak Matterhorn 1 LED. 

I seriously thought about standardizing everything to AAs, but I decided against it. My small Garmin GPS unit uses AAAs, so does my MP3 player and my old Palm. AAAs are almost as widely available as AAs over here because they're so common in MP3 players. A *good* radio running on AAAs may be a problem, but in a pinch I can get the stronger FM stations on the built-in radio of my MP3 player or that of one of my cellphones.

The HDS is a natural choice I think. It's a light with very good runtime at low levels, and it's one of the very few lights that allows me to adjust the brightness levels low enough. It can also easily be useed with Surefire filters. Sure, CR123s may be difficult to find in an emergency, but with one Li-Ion in the light and two high-quality primaries as backups I should be fine for quite some time. 

Still, I'd love to see is a light as versatile as the HDS with similar ruggedness running on AAs. The L1D just doesn't cut it I'm afraid because low isn't low enough. I'm also not altogether sure about the ruggedness of the Fenix lights. The Proton would be another possibilty, but it really needs an LED upgrade. I'm also not sure I'd trust it at the moment. 

Now, this is what works *for me*, but there are plenty of other possiblities as there are still a few manufacturers about that build rugged lights. A good small light would for instance be the JIL DD - small, no driver that may malfunction, useful light for 20+ hours on one CR2. Peak makes a quite a few rugged lights as well. The Surefire L1 may be an interesting light once it has proven its reliability, even though I find it a bit too big for EDC.

But like I said before, it all depends on your specific preferences and needs. If you expect you have to go into hiding for a while, you'll probably need a different set of lights to avoid detection. If you expect you'll need a light that can easily be used for self defense you'll probably need a different set of lights. And so on. 

Hans


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## knot (Jul 31, 2007)

paulr said:


> I gotta say that if I were in the woods for a week I'd consider water and food to be much higher priority than flashlights.



Of course but the topic wasn't about priority. I still stand on my advice that a long runtime lantern would be better suited for stranded-in-the-woods-survival-lighting


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## Pistolero (Jul 31, 2007)

I'm surprised no one has mentioned any sort of small lantern. We have the River Rock K2 3xAA and both sizes of the Energizer folding lantern (4AA & 4D)
In low modes we should get exceptional runtimes off them.

I've got a few other misc lights. 
I'd guess my 4D Mag and 2AA minimags with dropins would get the most usage.
Also, I've got one headlamp and need to get a couple more.
And a photon/fauxton around the neck would be handy.

I'm in the Texas Gulf coast Hurricane target region , so assuming I didn't evacuate and survived the main attack, water would be my biggest worry. Ideally, I'd need something water/storm-proof. 

Here's FlashlightReviews real-world ice storm flashlight usage.
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/features/storm.htm

Although, last year, we had a power outage overnight. Since we were sleeping, I just turned on my glotoob and left it near my other lights, so I could navigate to them. Sadly, the power was restored quickly and I had no need for more lights.


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## knot (Jul 31, 2007)

Pistolero said:


> I'm surprised no one has mentioned any sort of small lantern.




I'm surprised you haven't seen both of my posts.


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## tinkerer (Jul 31, 2007)

I've changed my emergency duty flashlight a few times. Presently its a Arc AAA P and a SF G2 with cree drop in. The SF for tactical use and the Arc for carrying around my neck. A gerber Infinity ultra might be substituted for the Arc. I feel a long runtime is more important than brightness for a survival light. The G2 is for "checking out the noise in the night" light paired with a pistol. At any rate a large supply of lithium cells rounds out the package.


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## :)> (Jul 31, 2007)

I am very pleased with the low powered Peak Pacific with the Seoul P4 LED. This light runs on one AA battery forever and offers plenty of light for most any indoor or outdoor task that requires illumination up to 20' feet away.

I also can speak very highly of HDS lights for survival situations because of their extreme runtime capability.

-Goatee


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## Barbarian (Jul 31, 2007)

Inova X5 and Surefire G2 are both in my BOB. X5 for runtime and the G2, because it is an incandescent (better in fog or smoke).

I always have my Draco around my neck and L0D-ce on my keychain plus another light in my pocket or on my belt as EDC.


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## bones_708 (Jul 31, 2007)

Best is such an arbitrary term, but one light I've picked up that goes with my emergency supplies is the lightsaver 3-d flashlight. At 34 lumens (you can switch out bulbs) it's reasonably bright, has a power management system so you can run it 100%, 50%, or 25%. Power meter, traffic wand, auto shutoff or constant on, 2 flash patterns, it really packs in options for a $10 plastic light.


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## DaveG (Jul 31, 2007)

bones_708 said:


> Best is such an arbitrary term, but one light I've picked up that goes with my emergency supplies is the lightsaver 3-d flashlight. At 34 lumens (you can switch out bulbs) it's reasonably bright, has a power management system so you can run it 100%, 50%, or 25%. Power meter, traffic wand, auto shutoff or constant on, 2 flash patterns, it really packs in options for a $10 plastic light.


 I cant place the Lightsaver 3-d,who makes it, and is it still for sale? Thanks.


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## vandrecken (Jul 31, 2007)

If weight isn't an issue, just throw plenty of them in to cover the bases.

If it is, then ask yourself the question that I do each time I load my pack for a daywalk or camping trip. What covers the essential scenarios in minimum weight ?

I invariably come down to this choice:
Tikka plus or Inova 24/7 - the tikka's the better light when you need to do tasks, but the inova's strobe and beacon modes are sometimes useful to have if you think you'll want to be noticed.

If and only if an extra flashlight is going to be more useful than it's weight in say, (freeze dried) food, first aid or water treatment gear, then I take a second light for big emergencies like trailfinding, lighting up an auto wreck or natural disaster, signalling SOS off a high mountain side, etc. Usually this is a tough high output light - a SF C3 or 6P because I find their beam very versatile but any 60 lumen + light would do. Pick your own favorite.

Most emergencies are not TEOTWAWKI scenarios so I don't get hung up about hiding from men with guns. I want me and mine to see clearly & be seen, to be able to help others & help ourselves.

Cheers


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## bones_708 (Jul 31, 2007)

DaveG said:


> I cant place the Lightsaver 3-d,who makes it, and is it still for sale? Thanks.


Yep, I first saw it at Brigade Quartermasters but they do have their own site. As to who makes it all I could find is Lightsaver South Africa but there is a reference to the company being out of Germany so who knows?


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## Pistolero (Jul 31, 2007)

knot said:


> I'm surprised you haven't seen both of my posts.



 I'd cite a lack of caffeine throughout the day.

That said, got any favorites in the long runtime lantern category? The OP says "survival", but I'm not sure D-sized lanterns fit the bill.


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## jumpstat (Aug 1, 2007)

Any led lights wihich has a high and a low low. Single cell and can use rechargeables or primaries. Small form factor, made of alloy and duckable or better still waterproof. Should have a twisty (less prone to mishaps).

1. SF L1 (non cree version)
2. McLuxIII PD-S
3. McLuxIII Mule


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## Too_Many_Tools (Aug 1, 2007)

"What's the best emergency survival flashlight?"

I would agree...."The best light is the one you carry when things go wrong. "

For almost everyone here it means which one you carry in your pocket EVERY DAY.

And for those who think they will have time to prepare, go grab a BOB or reach for that special light....well I can tell you are in for a big surprise.

I have had countless situations that have demanded a light NOW...and whatever I am carrying ON MY PERSON at that moment was the light that HAD to be used. Remember an emergency is an event that you do not know when or if it will happen...and it can happen anywhere at anytime.

TMT


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## cosine (Aug 1, 2007)

Barbarian said:


> Inova X5 and Surefire G2 are both in my BOB. X5 for runtime and the G2, because it is an incandescent (better in fog or smoke).



I've never heard that before. What makes an incan better than an LED in fog or smoke?


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## paulr (Aug 1, 2007)

The original post specified an evacuation. If that means in your car that's one thing but I presumed it meant you were on foot, and weight counts. To sort of repeat from before:

1) go for 1 cell lights over multi-cell lights. That removes the problem of mixing different types of battery, mixing batteries that have differing amounts of charge, etc. It also makes it easier to run the light with batteries scrounged from other devices, many of which have only 1 battery.

2) Headlamps are good. Maybe I'll put out a WTB for one of the Ray-o-vac 1aa headlamps. I haven't gotten to see one yet but aside from the goofy blue led it sounds great.

3) If you want ultra dim, get a Photon Freedom. Weighs nothing, dims to near-zero and can be an invaluable backup. Then stop worrying about umpteen levels on your bigger lights.


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## knot (Aug 2, 2007)

Pistolero said:


> I'd cite a lack of caffeine throughout the day.
> 
> That said, got any favorites in the long runtime lantern category? The OP says "survival", but I'm not sure D-sized lanterns fit the bill.




Honestly, I don't have a lantern yet - but as the OP says:



> Let's say you had to live in the wilderness / urban area for like a week. What flashlight would be best?



IMO a flashlight is for going places. A lantern is used to illuminate broad areas such as if one had to "live in the wilderness" for a week - camping


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## BGater (Aug 2, 2007)

A light with one output would be useless. High only would drain batteries fast, low only would be useless to signal for help (read that as simply get someones attention because honestly, how many of us remember or know morse code to make use of a momentary switch?) or blast a path of light if danger was near. Simply because I have this one, I would say mine would be a Fenix L1Dce with Energizer Liths. This light will run on low for something like 60 hours and high for 2 or so to 50%. Being able to run a light, even if on low, all night would be a great comfort. If the power is out all over, man it gets DARK ! A handfull of AA Liths and your set for weeks. The strobe would be usefull to get helps attention. I do think the SOS flashes way to slow to be usefull. This light fits well in a web headband made for a MMag AA. I have several of these, the elastic loop is a snug fit but it works. That leaves your hands free if need be. No bulb to blow. If you would run low on batteries, it uses AA's which are easy to find. Rob some TV remotes, most camera's, any gas station or store, ect. 

Not saying this one is the best choice, its just the best one I currently own. I also have the L2Dce, it would work equally well if not better.


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## kosPap (Aug 2, 2007)

well all memebers have made valid points and I guess I would sum them up in this

AA batteries
Headlamp
Ultralong Running Time
Hi=Intensity Option for searching

Now this can only be achieved with 2 flashlights.

1 AA headlamp
1 2 CR123 flashlight with a multimode Cree module/LED..

well that is MY take....


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## wild68fury (Aug 2, 2007)

Simple, Black diamond ICON headlamp.


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## Pistolero (Aug 2, 2007)

Has anyone had any real-world luck with those goofy 2-in-1 Light-to-lantern combos that some companies make.

The only ones I can think of off the top of my head are the Energizer ones.
But I think Dorcy or Garrity might make one. Brunton makes a tiny one, but I have no idea how that companies stuff is.

This is the one with the cold cathode tube.
http://www.energizer.com/products/flashlights/flashlight.asp?cat=1&id=3

Here is the extending one that converts from a torch to a lamp.
http://www.energizer.com/products/flashlights/flashlight.asp?cat=4&id=6

Another bigger extender.
http://www.energizer.com/products/flashlights/flashlight.asp?cat=4&id=7

Here's an updated one of there Nichia 2-in-1. Saw these at wal-mart.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2080365&postcount=5

I'm guessing it would eliminate the need for a dedicated lantern, at the expense of poor output? Also, the RR K2 Lantern's top is removeable and the lantern can double as a sort of spotlight. Although, I think a headlamp might be more useful than a smallish lantern. But it depends on the scenario and the number of people in the party.


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## paulr (Aug 2, 2007)

kosPap said:


> 1 AA headlamp
> 1 2 CR123 flashlight with a multimode Cree module/LED..
> well that is MY take....


I don't see where the 2x123 requirement came from. The suggestion of a multimode 1AA light (L1D CE) with a headstrap seems to cover both requirements. I'm not a big fan of that type of setup for non-emergency use, just like I'd rather assemble computers with a real screwdriver instead of a SAK. However the SAK (and the L1DCE+headstrap) are good all-in-one solutions, not ideal for any specific purpose but doing at least a reasonable job at just about everything.

I don't think the L1DCE will really run 60 hours on low on 1 cell. The L2DCE can do that on two cells, nonstop. The L1DCE can probably also do it on two cells, not nonstop (since you have to change the cell once) but I don't see much use in running a light nonstop for that long.


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## BGater (Aug 2, 2007)

paulr: your right about the L1D's runtime. I must have got the L2's time mixed up in my head at that late hour :duh2:. Flashlight Reviews has Chevs runtime plots for both. On E2 Liths the L1D runs for like 32 hours on low which at 8 hours darkness per night would give you around 4 days use, and the L2 for 80+ hours (to 50%). The batts would get to rest some as you would only need 8-10 hours at a time. Thats about all the longer night lasts in my neck of the woods. 

The headstrap is not perfect for sure, but works in a pinch. I use it when the power is out and when climbing into my treestand during Deer season. If I get time this evening, I will post a pic of the LxD's in the headstrap. It folds up nice and flat, takes up little room in the pocket.


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## TOTJ (Aug 2, 2007)

I have a bunch of flashlights around the house but when it comes to what is in my disaster kit other then some 12 hour lightsticks is a crank/solar.
Flashlight/radio/strobe light/cell phone charger. There are no batteries to run out and I always know that its going to work. Are there better flashlights? Sure, but if stuff realy hits the fan it will work fine if I need
some light plus it was only (Ithink) $25.00
Here is a picture I found


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## MacTech (Aug 3, 2007)

I've actually planned my EDC around the possibility of needing them in a survival type situation.....

in the car, I keep my SF G2 with P61, and a fully loaded Spares Carrier for my Retina Scorcher

I EDC the following lights for the following purposes;

SF A2 Aviator w/ red/white Aviatrix; the A2's there for two purposes, the long runtime LED's, and the throw of the incan, in an emergency, I have both battery sipping LED (especially the low red LED), and a powerful incan for when I need throw, the special modes of the Aviatrix (strobe, beacon, SOS) are great for emergency situations....

SF E1L-SR; my general-use light (RF pocket), especially since I run it on RCR123a's for guilt-free-lumens, whenever I need a quick blast of light, whether it's checking an iBook display for bad backlighting tubes/reed switch, searching under my desk for an errant dropped screw, or general nighttime use, the E1L-SR is my go-to light

my SC1 in the car is rigged up to support all three SF's, there's 4 SF primary 123a's, two spare RCR123a's for the E1L, and a spare lamp for the Aviator in a foam pad at the center of the SC

I also carry the following lights to back up the SF's;

Inova X5 in LF pocket, both as a spare battery carrier for the A2, and a long-runtime light, it eats the batteries the A2 and G2 are "done" with

Inova X1 in RR pocket; for when I need a long-runtime light powered by an AA cell

on the keyring i have both a Fenix E0 and CMG Infinity (blue/green) for long-life and common batteries (AAA and AA)


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## Sunhammer (Feb 17, 2013)

Hey,
New to the whole "torch" subculture. Stumbled into this when I decided to build a last ditch survival vest to back up my go-bag. I have to say I have instinctively found the "1 is none & 2 is 1" matches my own "always have a back-up, and then a back-up for the back-up". Thats why if the zombies force me to drop my go-bag I still have critical gear on my vest... Anyway, there are a couple things I consider:

1) Too-cheap will kill you, but too expensive wastes money for other gear
2) Light, tight, ready for fight or flight
3) durability
4) Fancy is a waste in an emergency
5) standardized battery

Starting with (5) I've decided for myself a solar battery charger is good idea (Powerfilm USB+AA because I live in a cloudy environment) so the flashlights I choose need to run on those. This fits with 1 & 2, Fenix seems to make the smallest AAA and AA torches with decent quality. Fenix is that great middle ground if you are thinking budget... it is the combination that led me to Fenix: the E05 is almost the same size as a AA battery and the 27 lumins is enough to find the possum my dogs are barking about while not so bright people 3 blocks away can see the light. It's my every day carry (a double clip MOLLE pouch sits on your belt real nice and carries a folder, fire starter and fenix E01 or E05 very comfortably).

My friend started me out by giving me a Nebo Redline, which is a nice multi that runs on 3 AAA (love those eneloops - get them cheap thru adorama) and the 220 lumins is the most I will ever need as it is bright enough to move but not bright enough to blind pilots at 30,000 feet. But it is a little big. I am ordering a Fenix LD12 (97 hours at 3 lumins, and 4 hours at 115 lumins - all off one AA- for general use) round it all out with two Fenix E01, and an old minimag for the outhouse.

Why? Well, I'll end up giving out a couple to less prepared friends in my group, and still have at least one backup. The Fenix are so small that you cannot feel guilty adding a couple extra to your gear.

Anyway, really think about the way you want your go-bag to work when the crap hits... do you have kids? A little flashlight of their own is good morale for them. Do you want your go-bag to have what you need when the 2 day emergency stretches to 3 weeks? Is it just you, or will you have others with you? Are you going to be mobile or shelter-in-place? Really imagine yourself there, in the worst of it, and don't forget to consider bad people (or zombies if you get depressed easily) as other people have said...

in the end, there is no "right answer"


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## Burgess (Feb 17, 2013)

to Sunhammer --

Welcome to CandlePowerForums !

:welcome:


Even though this thread is more than 5 years old,
there's still valuable information contained within.


Thanks for sharing your insights.
Keep reading the many additional postings we have on the subject !


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## rmvsintheta (Mar 7, 2013)

I'm all for standardized batteries (AA, AAA), but assuming, as Sunhammer suggests, that you have some sort of renewable power source, I'd go with a Spark SD6-460NW 18650 headlamp. It has light levels scaling all the way from 0.5 lumens to 460 lumens (at 0.5 lumens it's advertised that the light will last for 90 days... the veracity of this is debatable given real-world battery drain / temperature conditions, but still impressive nonetheless). It's also IP68 dust/waterproof, meaning it will sustain prolonged submersion in water. Generally speaking, in a "survival" situation, the importance of light is to have a durable light that allows you to be aware of your immediate surroundings in the dark, so I'd personally prefer a flood beam to any sort of reflector/thrower. Helps avoid tunnel vision. Also, 460 lumens is plenty bright enough to be used as a signalling device at night even with full flood, and will likely be seen over a greater range of angles.

Flashlights may be handier to manipulate, but in almost every situation I've been in where I've had to navigate and/or manipulate objects in the dark, I've found a headlamp to be far more convenient and secure. As embarrassed as I am to admit it, I've often reached for my 23 lumen PETZL Tikkina 2 (IPX4 water resistant) to complete a task rather than my 220 lumen ITP SC2 Eluma (IP68). It's much easier to do things in the dark with both hands free, even at the expense of some light.


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## Samy (Mar 8, 2013)

rmvsintheta said:


> I'm all for standardized batteries (AA, AAA), but assuming, as Sunhammer suggests, that you have some sort of renewable power source, I'd go with a Spark SD6-460NW 18650 headlamp. It has light levels scaling all the way from 0.5 lumens to 460 lumens (at 0.5 lumens it's advertised that the light will last for 90 days... the veracity of this is debatable given real-world battery drain / temperature conditions, but still impressive nonetheless). It's also IP68 dust/waterproof, meaning it will sustain prolonged submersion in water. Generally speaking, in a "survival" situation, the importance of light is to have a durable light that allows you to be aware of your immediate surroundings in the dark, so I'd personally prefer a flood beam to any sort of reflector/thrower. Helps avoid tunnel vision. Also, 460 lumens is plenty bright enough to be used as a signalling device at night even with full flood, and will likely be seen over a greater range of angles.
> 
> Flashlights may be handier to manipulate, but in almost every situation I've been in where I've had to navigate and/or manipulate objects in the dark, I've found a headlamp to be far more convenient and secure. As embarrassed as I am to admit it, I've often reached for my 23 lumen PETZL Tikkina 2 (IPX4 water resistant) to complete a task rather than my 220 lumen ITP SC2 Eluma (IP68). It's much easier to do things in the dark with both hands free, even at the expense of some light.



I couldn't agree more! AA's and AAA's and long runtime lights. I also prefer floodier beams to the tunnel vision lights.

cheers


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## braddy (Mar 8, 2013)

The core of my prepper lights are a package of the Fenix LD12, Fenix LD22, and Fenix HL21 headlamp, they each have a low of 3 ANSI lumens with burn times of 97 hours, 110 hours, and 53 hours respectively, and they total up to 4 AA batteries, and with diffusers all make great lamps/lanterns, 3 ANSI lumens makes a perfectly fine flashlight, but all three lights have very bright settings with great throw as well.

With a solar charger and/or an adapter for the car, getting 4 batteries charged every few weeks should be no problem, and of course the AA is the world's most common battery anyway.

To me those three lights alone solve the lighting issue for long term emergencies of months and even years, and these are bullet proof, indestructible Fenix lights, so the fear of failure at the time of constant use and great need doesn't exist as it would with seemingly adequate, but cheaper lights.

I have more elements of course (don't all of us here, like dozens and dozens of them), the aaa lights and other long burning lights and battery options of course, but to have a core of such dependable, fail safe lights with such incredible capabilities and quality beams, gives a prepper peace of mind, and means that he can consider the flashlight niche filled so that he can move onto the next niche of preparedness.

In a survival situation, it may be winter and there may not even be heat in the house, the newest Eneloop AAs are good down to -4F, another strong point in favor of AAs.


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## cland72 (Mar 8, 2013)

For emergencies, I tend to stay away from click switches and multiple modes.

Mine would be my G2-YL with M61LL. 10 hours regulated runtime at 100 lumens, with a long taper thereafter. High vis in yellow, bulletproof, and simple. I've heard that "survival use" is limited to 2 hours per day, which would give you 5 days of use on one set of cells, not counting the taper/reduced output after the regulated run period.


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## MatthewSB (Mar 9, 2013)

I don't worry about basing my primary lights on what batteries I can scavenge elsewhere. If I want to have the ability to use AA batteries, I can toss a small $8 mini-Maglite in my bag. It's not worth crippling my lights' performance (brightness or runtime) to me. It seems that there are very few options for reliable lights that take AA or AAA batteries.

I would put a priority on having a light with a low mode, because I don't like to draw attention to myself with a blinding high beam everytime I need to do something in the dark. I also don't like to destroy my nightvision for no reason. 

If I had to run out the door right now, I'd have either my E1B or EB1T that I rotate for daily carry in my pocket, and my PX2 Fury. The single cell lights are more efficient, with low modes getting 35+ hours. Even the powerful Fury gets 45 hours on the very usable (floody) low mode, which is more than enough to last a week or a month on a single set of batteries.

The Surefire E2L should also be considered. It's not the brightest out there, but it has Surefire's bombproof durability, 100 hours on low mode, and a very usable 60 lumen high mode with a 6 hour runtime. This light, with 2 inside and 4 spare batteries, could last months. 

Spending a hundred dollars or so for a solar charger that works with a 3v LIFEPO4 rechargeable kit is worth considering. However, you might be better off with 50 batteries for the space and weight it takes up, as well as the fact that most inexpensive electronics (most solar chargers and battery chargers are pretty cheap) are likely to break eventually. Another reason to buy CR123 batteries, the long shelf life would likely outlast most people in a true disaster.


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## jabe1 (Mar 9, 2013)

There are many threads devoted to this subject already. BOB lights, toughest light, longest runtime, SHTF, etc.

I have a Peak Kilimanjaro single LED SS, Peak Matterhorn red LED, and a Quark 2AA tactical, all loaded with Lithium primaries and some spares in my BOB; should be enough...


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## braddy (Mar 9, 2013)

It seems that there are very few options for reliable lights that take AA or AAA batteries.
[/QUOTE said:


> Fenix sure fills that requirement. The LD12 and the HL21 alone are enough to fill the need very well.
> 
> AAs are everywhere, even in most people's $2.00 solar garden lights (which can also be used as chargers) , they also use aaas easily, especially with a store bought adapter.


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## Philip2 (Jun 7, 2013)

For a bug out bag (BOB) I would suggest a light weight radio that has a built in led flashlight, hand crank and solar panel, and which can charge your cell phone and tablet pc. 

Add to that a small 1x AA or 1x AAA aluminum flashlight with automatic SOS and moon light mode. This small flashlight should ALWAYS be attached to your body 24/7. Disasters come often unannounced, and the perfect survival kit is of no use, when you have no time to get it. 

Survival and disaster gear should be trained with on a regular basis, or it may not save the life of your loved ones in a panic situation.


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## Bullzeyebill (Jun 19, 2013)

I'm surprise this thread has languished in the Personal gadgetry, and non flashlight electronics forum. Moving this to General Flashlights Discussion forum.

Bill


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## whiteoakjoe (Jun 19, 2013)

A lot of debate on battery type in this thread, and I agree that batteries are the key component in this type of discussion. There are pro's and con's to each type but as technology moves forward the AA lights seem to be catching up with the CR123's. I don't think that the AA(s) are the match for 18650's yet, but its closer in multiple cell lights like the EagleTac SX25A6 than I ever imagined that it would get. In the long run the AA is the world standard for batteries and I don't see that changing. So I would not bet against the little AA. Right now its hard to give up 18650's and 16340's but I imagine that may not be the case in the next few years?


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## yearnslow (Jun 19, 2013)

I currently have a C2L-HA with a customlite drop in, an SC1 with the original P60L unit and six CR123's, attached to my bug-out bag. I always have an LX2 on my belt and a Gerber recon for those 'low-light' moments.


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## Jash (Jun 19, 2013)

I don't know what 'the best' flashlight for survival is. For me, I've chosen the E21 and HL21 for my GHB lights. Each is loaded with lithiums and there's an 8 pack of lithium AA's for backup. 

These two lights will do 98% of the tasks I need them to do in an emergency. About the only thing they won't do is throw like a big XM-L light, but there's a TK60 next to the drivers seat in my car.

AA, CR123, it's all a personal preference. Thing is AA's are available everywhere, and they come in packs of 2 to 40. CR123 cells are $10 each in Australia, and I've seen them as much as $20 in remote areas. And I don't really think that there's such a huge advantage with them anymore for use with low and medium modes, which is where 90% of your emergency use is going to be.


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## LGT (Jun 20, 2013)

The light that you trust the most and have backup batteries for will be your best survival light. Different members will suggest many different lights according to what their preference is.


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