# JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more!



## selfbuilt

_*Reviewer's Note: *This is a review of the JetBeam Jet-III Military flashlight. Note that this is the first continuously-variable JetBeam IBS light than can take a full voltage input range, allowing all possible batteries configurations (i.e. 2xCR123A/RCR, 1x18650). The Jet-III M was provided for review by JetBeam._

JetBeam Jet-III M Features (from the manufacturer and dealer websites):

LED: CREE 7090 XR-E (Q5 bin)
Max Output: 225 Lumen ("Torch Lumens")
Reflector: aluminum reflector (both smooth and textured available)
Lens: Sapphire crystal
Material: T6061 T6 aircraft aluminum alloy,
Finish: HA III Military grade hard anodized
Battery: CR123*2,RCR123*2,18650 Li-ion
Input voltage: 2.7-15V
Switch: Forward clicky switch
Waterproof: IPX-8 standard
Output & Runtime:
MAX output: 225 Lumens, lasting for 1-3 hours depending on battery
Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours
Estimated price: $85 USD







Light comes in a hard cardboard box with magnetic closing clasp and foam inserts. This is a great improvement over the thin paper box of the original Jet-III PRO. The light features a removable bi-directional pocket clip (installed), and comes with manual, warranty card, good quality wrist lanyard (mine came with 2 for some reason), extra o-rings and tailcap boot cover. 





From left to right: CR123A, AW 18650, JetBeam Jet-III M, Olight M20 Warrior, JetBeam Jet-III PRO ST, Jet-III PRO IBS, Solarfoce T7, Romisen RC-M4.

As you can see, size is slightly larger than the more compact general-purpose 2xCR123A lights, but still reasonably small. Very similar in overall size and feel as the Olight M20 Warrior. 

Weight: 127.0g
Length: 137.5mm
Width: 33.4mm (head, widest portion), 25.5mm (tailcap)










The Jet-III M is a very well made light - probably the best JetBeam light I've come across yet. :thumbsup: 

The light is very solid, with a good sturdy hand feel. Both the bezel and tailcap come with stainless steel retaining rings, to enhance durability. A replacement bezel ring with aggressive attack ridges is now available (sold separately).










Everything fits together well, with double o-rings and JetBeam's high quality square-cut screw threads. Tailcap threads are anodized, allowing tailcap lockout.  Instead of a spring mounted on the positive contact board in the head (like on the early JetBeam IBS lights), the Jet-III M has the new standard raised contact surface that provides reverse-polarity protection. 

Machining and hard anodizing (in JetBeam's typical gunmetal grey colour) are flawless on my sample. :twothumbs The knurling is not overly aggressive, but grip is enhanced by all the exterior design ridges and clip. The removable clip is bi-directional - you can position the light in both bezel-up and bezel-down orientations. 

Lettering is reasonably sharp and clear on my sample, although contrast with the dark grey background is not as high as some other lights. That being said, this is one of the "cleanest" examples of lettering I've seen from JetBeam. 










Unlike most of the competition, this tactical light can tailstand. oo: Light comes with a forward tactical clicky (momentary on, click for lock-on - see below for a discussion of the UI). Despite being recessed, the crenelated tailcap ring makes it still reasonably easy to activate. Note the tailcap switch retaining ring is now all metal.

The reflector is fairly deep - mine came with a smooth one installed (OP is also available, purchased separately). In my experience of JetBeam lights, the smooth version doesn't usually offer much better throw than the OP, so you are probably best stick with OP to smooth out the Cree rings.

And here is the only minor quibble I had with my light as shipped - I noticed that the reflector seemed slightly misaligned:






As you can see, the beam seemed somewhat defocused, with a slight dark shadow near the emitter (lower right in the first pic above), and a center "donut" at close-up distances (about 0.5m in the pics above).

Upon removing the bezel ring and lens, I quickly spotted the problem - a tiny sliver of the bezel o-ring had gotten stuck just under the lip of the reflector. This basically raised and tilted the reflector slightly, producing the pattern shown above. By simply re-seating the reflector and o-ring, I was good to go - scroll down for the detailed beamshots. 

Since I had the head open, I thought I would take some additional shots of the insides for you. 










For beamshots, below is a comparison to the Olight M20 Warrior (R2) and JetBeam Jet-III ST that I have recently reviewed. All lights on max on AW Protected 18650 (pics taken ~0.5 m from a white wall).


















As you see (with the reflector properly mounted), the smooth reflector on the Jet-IIIM produces very good throw, but with the standard Cree rings. I would recommend most users consider the OP reflector, since I know these typically result in a negligible loss of throw on JetBeam lights. Jet-III M throw is certainly more pronounced the Jet-III ST. For a more detailed throw/output comparison, see my Summary chart below.

_*UPDATE*: Some additional long-distance beamshots, to show you how the light compares to others in its class. 

Please see my recent 100-yard Outdoor Beamshot review for more details (and additional lights)._











*User Interface:*

The Jet-III M features a revised IBS interface, in keeping with its wider voltage/battery range and "tactical" focus.

The original IBS lights were 4.2V max, and had 3 programmable output modes (each accessed in sequence by a soft-press of the reverse clicky tail switch). Each mode could be independently programmed to any output along the continuously-variable range, or set to one of many SOS/strobe modes.

This new light is multipower (up to 15V), allowing you to run 1x18650, 2xRCR/CR123A. It has two output states - Max output (head fully tightened against the body) and one programmable output mode (head slightly loosened). Programming of the set-able mode has been slightly altered from the earlier lights, to take into account the forward clicky switch (the original IBS lights were designed to work with a reverse clicky). 

To access the "Brightness Setting" on the Jet-III M, from off, rapidly flash the clicky 3 times within one second, then hold the switched half-pressed or fully click to start the ramp. To select the output level you want, simply release the switch or click off. Wait at least 2 secs for the light to memorize your setting before attempting to turn back on.

To access the SOS/strobe modes, flash the switch during the brightness ramp. This will advance you to "Special Functions" mode, which contains a number of SOS/strobe modes. Note the manual fails to describe these - unfortunately, the same text from the previous "Brightness Setting" section of the manual is repeated in this section by mistake. :tsk: Unlike a lot of other lights, JetBeam actually gives you a good number of different stobe frequencies and output levels to choose from.

EDIT: JetBeam has revised the manual, and EngrPaul has kindly posted pics of the instructions in post #24.

If you flash again while in the Special Functions mode, you will advance to the Reset Function mode. This doesn't have much use now, as it was designed for the original IBS circuit where it reset all 3 programmable modes to factory defaults. :shrug: Simply flash again to get back to the Brightness Setting mode to restart the ramp.

*Testing Method:* All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for the extended run Lo/Min modes which are done without cooling.

Throw values are the square-root of lux measurements taken at 1 meter from the lens, using a light meter.

*Ramping sequence:*






As you can see, ramping is still quite linear, but the time to complete the ramp is much longer now. Not sure why they changed it, but I actually a prefer the original ramping time. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*






Peak throw on the Jet-III M is identical to my original Jet-III PRO IBS (although that one had a textured reflector). But as others have reported, there’s very little difference in throw between smooth and OP Jetbeam reflectors. 

And now the truly surprising part – the lowest low setting of the Jet-III M is very close to the minimum output setting of my Novatac 120P.  That’s quite remarkable!

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*














And here is how it compares to other lights:














A few comments on Max output: 

Max output of the Jet-III M is typically identical to my ITP C6, which is a bit less than the other lights shown here. As a result, runtime is typically quite good.
As expected for a multi-power CR123A/RCR/18650 light, performance on 18650 is only semi-regulated. This is common on all multi-power lights – and leads to more efficient performance.














Performance on Med is pretty much as expected – except 18650 remains only semi-regulated (typically, most multi-power lights maintain complete regulation at lower output levels on 18650). 






I’ve done only one relatively Lo-ish runtime on the Jet-III M, and the result is consistent with the others (i.e. similar efficiency to the Solarforce T7). Surprisingly, the ITP C6 seems quite efficient on RCR for a continuously-variable light.

*Potential Issues*

Honestly, I haven’t found any yet. 

UPDATE: One minor issue - due to wide bore tube to allow all protected 18650 cells to fit, there's some rattle of the thinner 2xCR123A. This is also true on the Olight M20 - and as a happy co-incidence, the spare magazine holder for the Olight M20 is a perfect fit for the Jet-III M to stop the rattle. You just can't screw the plastic cap on the holder for use in the Jet-III M.

*General Observations*

Simply put, the Jet-III M is probably JetBeam’s best built light to date. :thumbsup:

Components are all of high quality. The light is a pleasure to hold and use, with a very substantial feel. I like the bi-directional clip, and was surprised to find the forward clicky reasonably accessible with the tailstanding bezel ring. I would rate the overall Jet-III M quality as high as my Olight M20 Warrior – in fact, this light feels even slightly “sturdier” than the M20 (i.e. slightly heavier). Good job! :kiss:

The interface makes good sense for a “tactical” light – by simply leaving the head tightened, you can insure it always comes on in Max. The programmable user defined mode (head loosened) is a fairly good design, although it limits you to just one programmable state. Obviously, bezel twisting is not ideal for a tactical light, but this is good compromise since you can always insure it comes on in Max if you want.

The forward clicky gives you a true momentary on, which is popular with members here. Unfortunately, this complicates the programmable interface somewhat (recall that the original IBS circuit was designed for a reverse clicky). Although the IBS circuit seems to have been revised for this light to facilitate forward clicky use, it is still not fully intuitive. For example, you no longer have to start the 3 rapid flashes from the on-state, and you don’t need to end with a half-press or click-on. But if you don’t end with the half-press, you don’t know if you’ve succeeded in entering the programming mode (i.e. the light won’t actually start ramping until the next time you click on). You then need to click-off to save the brightness setting. Workable, but not ideal.

In any case, I think it’s great that JetBeam has finally revised the IBS circuit to take a wider voltage range (i.e. true multi-power capability).  This means a lack of true regulation on 18650, but I personally find that an acceptable trade-off for multi-power support. Again, many members often complain about this, but it is a fact of life for all multi-power circuits. If you want extremely flat regulation on 18650, you will need to stick with the 18650-only IBS lights (e.g. Jet-III PRO ST and Ultra).

I’m also amazed at the incredibly low output possible on this Jet-III M light – nearly matching my Novatac 120P. oo: Not sure why you would need such a low level on a tactical light, but it should translate into phenomenal runtime for emergency purposes. It's also great for sparing dark-adapted eyes too much trauma in the middle of the night. Note that Max output of my Jet-III M is a bit less than some of the other lights shown here (although it is an exact match of the ITP C6).

Obviously, output/runtime efficiency at higher outputs will not exceed a good current-controlled light matched for the same output. If runtime efficiency matters more to you (and you can live with a limited set of defined output states and a different UI), you should definitely check out my Olight M20 review for a comparison.

In summary, the Jet-III M is very impressive light – both in its build and circuit/UI. It’s a great update to the IBS line, finally bringing fully multi-power support. As always, I recommend users carefully consider what features matter most to them, and go for the light with the best fit. I certainly have no qualms recommending the build quality of this light.
_
*UPDATE 4/26/2009:* I've discovered the diffuser and red/green filters for the Olight M20 will also fit this light. See my Olight M20 review, or this post for more details._


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## woodrow

Great review as always Selfbuilt! I like that the low mode can be adjusted....really low in this case. That takes care of the only drawback I see in most 2 level lights....including my TK20. I usually want a lot of light...or very little. My M20 gets a lot of use on high and low....medium is just a pass through level for me. Good job Jetbeam!

Thanks again Selfbuilt!


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## EngrPaul

Thanks for the review, and the runtime. This is a flexible performer!

I found the textured reflector produced a very pleasant beam while maintaining throw. It's also very good looking with the textured reflector.

Jetbeam has produced some of these with neutral tint. I sold the one I had (colder than your specimen) and placed an order for this new warm version. I'll swing by and provide beamshots vs. an M20 when my light arrives (probably later this week).

I agree with all the stated pros of this light. I believe it is a *MUST HAVE LIGHT.*

I only found two minor cons.

(1) The last two turns installing the tailcap are very high friction on my specimen. I inspected closely and could not find the source of interference.

(2) The lens may not really be sapphire crystal, according to an independent density measurement posted elsewhere.

And I think it would be great to have a red button cover to match the o-rings


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## DM51

Excellent review - thanks! 

The formula of high quality + multi-power + ultra-low setting will mean a lot of interest in this light.

Moving to the Reviews section.


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## whc

[FONT=&quot]Nice review, nice to see some runtime graphs .

I don't know if you got the same manual I got, but I can see you have not mentioned the "special funktion" IE strobe which can be set to the user defined mode as well.

Here is hos to get there (the manual if fixed in the latest batch):

[/FONT](Brightness Level Programming)
1)Twist head 1/4 turn to access the secondary mode.
2)Half press tail cap button 3+ times in under 1 second
3)Now click light on.
4)You are now in program mode and will see the light slowly increase in brightness.
5)When satisfied with brightness setting simply turn light off. wait 2-3 seconds. Tuen back on and it is now memorized.

(Strobe/SOS Programming)
After step 3 from above wait another 1-2 seconds (you will see light going through different brightness levels) and turn off and back on again. 
Now you are in the strobe menu. Continue on to step #5.

Else I agree with you, very nice light with superb build quality .


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## frosty

Another great review.:twothumbs


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## selfbuilt

Thanks for the support everyone. :wave:

To put the low mode in context - _you can comfortably stare right into the emitter for several seconds without problem._ 

That kind of low is extremely useful for a middle-of-the-night light. This is why the classic VB-16 (modded with an SSC) still sits on my nightstand - nothing beats that sort of ultra low for preserving night vision.



EngrPaul said:


> I agree with all the stated pros of this light. I believe it is a *MUST HAVE LIGHT.*





DM51 said:


> The formula of high quality + multi-power + ultra-low setting will mean a lot of interest in this light.


I agree - I've always enjoyed my multi-power Jet-II PRO lights, so it's great to see them come out with a well-thought out multi-power light in this form factor. Build quality continues to improve with each JetBeam generation, and I think this could very well be the "must-have" JetBeam light for those who don't already have an IBS light in their stable. Worth checking out! 



whc said:


> I don't know if you got the same manual I got, but I can see you have not mentioned the "special funktion" IE strobe which can be set to the user defined mode as well.


Thanks whc - you clearly have a revised manual. Mine mistakenly repeats the same text for both Brightness Setting and Special Functions. Glad to hear they fixed it - for those of us already familiar with the IBS circuit it's not a problem, but new buyers would be scratching their heads the first time they hit the strobe modes without warning.


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## Mii

Excellent review!:thumbsup:

i've been waiting for this, so that i can decide which to buy.

are those sizes correct?


> Length: 137.5mm
> Width: 33.4mm (head, widest portion), 25.5mm (tailcap)


at the Jeatbeam web page(http://www.jetbeam.com.cn/links/pro/jet3m/index.aspx) length is informed to be 130mm?

Jetbeam www page also indicates that JET-III Ultra's figures are:


> Bezel diameter 33.5mm, Tail diameter 25.4mm, Overall length 132mm


 thats about the same as JET-III PRO. Is this correct? i allways tought it to be much bigger than JET-III PRO?

I'm getting more and more confused about what i should buy:thinking:


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## selfbuilt

Mii said:


> are those sizes correct?


Yes, my measurements are done with a digital caliper.

The original Jet-III PRO is about 129mm in length. If you look at the comparison pic at the top of the review, you'll see the Jet-III M is definitely larger. I don't have an Ultra to compare to.


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## JKL

Excellent review.


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## nanotech17

excellent review - just like mine = SMO+warm tint.


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## bluecrow76

Thanks for another wonderful review!

It's interesting to see how much more runtime you get between the M and the ST!


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## EngrPaul

I guess you'll be adding low runtime results... in about a week!


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## selfbuilt

bluecrow76 said:


> It's interesting to see how much more runtime you get between the M and the ST!


Good observation - although I should note my ST did have lower runtimes than my original Jet-III PRO (likely due to Vf variation). Still, neither one compares to the Jet-III M on 18650.

Although many complain about the lack of flat regulation on 18650 in multi-power setups, I think this comparison shows the true runtime benefit of running direct drive on 18650. 



EngrPaul said:


> I guess you'll be adding low runtime results... in about a week!


Ah, sorry, in this case I meant "pending" in the sense of when hell freezes over. :devil: :laughing:

Seriously, I don't even want to try to guess how long this light would run on minimum. If it's any consolation, I am doing an impromptu min mode runtime on the NiteCore D20 on regular alkalines (light is serving as night-light in my closet at the moment ). Coming on 5 days now and still going strong ....


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## naked2

Excellent review selfbuilt, but I have a question you may or may not be able to answer.

Mev at Light-Reviews reviewed the Hermes H20, and I bought his review sample. My light is almost identical (except for aesthetic differences on the exterior of the flashlight) as the one reviewed here.

The same two position UI with IBS and settable stroe (I too was pleasantly surprised with how low minimum is :candle: and find myself staring into it, it almost seems mesmerizing!). The same SS head and tail bezels, sharp lettering (of course it says "Hermes H20" w/serial #), and beautiful gun metal gray anodizing. Same circuit board with outer brass retaining ring, triangular middle, and raised center brass contact. Same square threads, red o-rings, anodized lock-out tail, switch and spring.

But it's obviously not intended to be a copy/clone, due to the distinctly different exterior, but on the interior, it's the same flashlight (kinda like a Chevy Silverado compared to a GMC Sierra!).

So here's my question: Since JetBeam was bought by a larger company to save it, do you think it's possible the Hermes is being produced in the same factory by the mother company?


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## KiwiMark

selfbuilt said:


> As you can see, ramping is still quite linear, but the time to complete the ramp is much longer now. Not sure why they changed it, but I actually a prefer the original ramping time.



Surely the longer ramp time makes it easier to select the exact brightness you want? It's not like you have 3 different modes to program on this light!



selfbuilt said:


> And now the truly surprising part – the lowest low setting of the Jet-III M is very close to the minimum output setting of my Novatac 120P.  That’s quite remarkable!
> 
> I’m also amazed at the incredibly low output possible on this Jet-III M light – nearly matching my Novatac 120P. oo: Not sure why you would need such a low level on a tactical light, but it should translate into phenomenal runtime for emergency purposes. It's also great for sparing dark-adapted eyes too much trauma in the middle of the night.



Why would you need such a low level? Well it is only an option, you certainly don't have to choose it! What about a Navy seal or a Commando or a Sniper that might have to spend a couple of weeks in a jungle and wants a light that is hard for the enemy to see and gives a huge run time? I think it is good that the option is there anyway to have any light output you like from almost off to full power. Someone in security might choose to set a rapid strobe for disorienting an intruder - then the IIIM gives them full power or strobe with a quick twist, possibly exactly what they want in a torch!

I kinda like the idea of a light with only 'click on - click off' from the switch, no modes to cycle through for the best in KISS principle. The fact that you can put it into full power or custom setting mode is a huge plus because it gives the versatility to suit anyone.

I can't wait for my Jet-IIIM to arrive (warm tint, OP reflector).


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## selfbuilt

naked2 said:


> So here's my question: Since JetBeam was bought by a larger company to save it, do you think it's possible the Hermes is being produced in the same factory by the mother company?


Hmmm, well, as you say, not really one I can answer - I suppose you'd have to ask JetBeam or Hermes. But it's also quite possible that the factory that JB contracts out the work to is doing a little "moonlighting" on the side . 

Hard for us to know - but I appreciate you sharing the info in this thread, as I wasn't aware of the Hermes product. :thumbsup: 



KiwiMark said:


> Surely the longer ramp time makes it easier to select the exact brightness you want? It's not like you have 3 different modes to program on this light!


True, but do you need close to 40 secs to choose a level? It's just my personal preference, but I think the previous 15 secs was fine.


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## Monocrom

Another fantastic review. :twothumbs


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## Burgess

Another fine review, SelfBuilt !


Thank you for your time and effort.


CPF is indeed fortunate to have your Reviews.


:twothumbs

:goodjob::thanks:
_


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## LuxLuthor

I got the JB-III Pro Ti which I think is the same guts as in your review. I'm not a big "Oh gee, look....yet another small LED light" fan, but your review captured why I regard this purchase as the best of the LED clone wars in which I have partaken thus far.

Very nice quality, and thorough review.


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## jzelek

Excellent review - thanks! :wave:

I've been looking for a Light with these features for awhile now and your review helped me to decide to buy the Jetbeam Military.
I have until now only purchased American Made lights but after reading your review and looking at the photos it appears to be one of the better quality lights available.

I placed a order with Bug Out Gear today and can't wait to get it!


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## selfbuilt

Thanks for the support everyone. :grouphug:

For those not already familiar with JetBeam lights, I think this light would make a great introduction - the Jet-III M has the best build and feature set I've seen with JB. Looking forward to seeing what they come up with next.


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## EngrPaul

With optional Stainless Steel Crenulated Bezel







Beamshots of warm tint coming after dark...


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## EngrPaul

Pages from the updated/corrected owners manual:


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## selfbuilt

EngrPaul said:


> Pages from the updated/corrected owners manual:


Thanks Paul ... I just updated the main post with a link to your post with the instruction pics.


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## naked2

I hope they come out with an actual "crenelated bezel" (somewhere in the neighborhood of the SureFire 6PD/SolarForce L2, or even as slight as the UltraFire 501 series), as this "aggressive attack bezel" is _too_ aggresssive  for _my _uses.


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## EngrPaul

naked2 said:


> this "aggressive attack bezel" is _too_ aggresssive  for _my _uses.


 
Ah, I too would also like the standard front bezel to be shaped similar to the tail bezel. As responsive as Jetbeam has been, I wouldn't be surprised if one comes available


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## EngrPaul

I found a dark room to take some beamshots (antique white).

Here are the lights:





All lights are on the highest setting, using a fresh AW 18650, the exposure and white balance is locked for all pictures. All emitters are Cree XRE.

Jetbeam Jet-III-M with OP reflector and Warm/Neutral Tint (Bin unknown)





Same Jetbeam Jet-III-M, but with optional "attack" bezel:





Dereelight DBS V2 3SD, OP reflector and "Neutral" 5A Q3 Emitter:





OLight M20 Warrior Premium, with OP reflector and R2 emitter. NOTE: The LED die is way off underneath the dome, so I'm sending this one back for repair/replacement next week.





RaidFire Spear, with OP reflector and Q5 emitter.





Here's my ratings for different aspects of these three lights:

*Output (Reported Camera-Exposure):* 
(1) Spear, (2) M20, (3) DBS, Jet-III-M (tie)

*My beam preference:* 
(1) DBS, (2) Jet-III-M, (3) Spear, (4) M20

*Flashlight non-emitter quality:* 
(1) Jet-III-M, (2) M20, (3) Spear, (4) DBS

*Purchased Cost (Lower=Better):* 
(1) Jet-III-M, (2) M20 < These Under $100
(3) Spear, (4) DBS < These Over $120

*Looks (my opinion):* 
(1) Spear, (2) Jet-III-M, (3) M20, (4) DBS


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## naked2

Great comparison! :thumbsup:

Boy, that attack bezel sure robs the III M's useful spillbeam. :shakehead


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## EngrPaul

naked2 said:


> Boy, that attack bezel sure robs the III M's useful spillbeam. :shakehead


 
Yes, but it adds other functionality and beauty. 

The original bezel leaves a gap, the strike bezel goes right up to the head.


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## whc

Very nice EngrPaul, must fight, no more lights this months, even though it is hard not to go for another JET-III M with the warmer tint .

FUI I asked JetBeam what bin they used in the naturel/warm tinted lights, this is the reply i got: 


> *We use Q3 5A LED in the Neutral White JET-III M, you may contact our distributor for details, thanks!*


 So it is a Q3, you didn’t get some lux readings of your first JET-II M? Could be nice to compare if you lose some output with the Q3, but overall it is probably nothing.


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## EngrPaul

whc said:


> So it is a Q3, you didn’t get some lux readings of your first JET-II M?


 
I believe it's a 5A Q3, since it gives the same exposure value as the DBS when taking the picture at a constant F-stop and aperature.


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## whc

EngrPaul said:


> I believe it's a 5A Q3, since it gives the same exposure value as the DBS when taking the picture at a constant F-stop and aperature.


Yes your right (see my post #31), JETBeam confirmed the led is a Q5 A5.

Don't know if you have any Seoul SSC P4 USV0H, but if you have can you tell me if the tint is about the same (the USV0H is my favorite tint ).


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## EngrPaul

No way, the USV0H is no where as near as warm as 5A Q3.


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## whc

EngrPaul said:


> No way, the USV0H is no where as near as warm as 5A Q3.


Ok even warmer than USV0H (not W0H)?

Sounds pretty darn warm, me wantee .


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## EngrPaul

Yes, you want this light! 

The only thing "warmer" that I have is the TK20, which is 5A Q2, IFRC.


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## selfbuilt

EngrPaul said:


> No way, the USV0H is no where as near as warm as 5A Q3.


Agreed, the 5A "neutral" tints are extremely warm compared to the standard "cool" white tints we are used. 5A is nothing like a relatively warm cool white.

For a comparison, here is a pic I made comparing my Fenix TK20 (5A) to a standard Fenix L2D (both with the camera locked on daylight setting):






Personally, I like a warmish cool tint - I haven't quite got used to the truly warm 5A tints yet.


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## IanT61

Can anybody clear up some confusion around the ramp time on the Jetbeam III M. In selfbuilts review (great job by the way) its measured at 30 seconds but in the sections of the manual posted by EngrPaul it says 8 seconds??

30 seconds seems a very long time especially if it always starts the ramping sequence in the same direction ie if you were near the bottom but wanted to go lower would you have to wait for it to ramp all the way to max and then work its way back down which could be 45secs or so .


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## Kamakazikev24

Very tempted to buy this one, I had two nitecores which both went wrong (one of which seemed to short out and got very hot while switched off. 
So I am still in need of a proper flash light to light up my night!
Could one of you happy owners please post up a pick of this in your hand?
There's no shops here in the UK so eBay from china is the only way to go, I get hit with to much tax when ordered from the states. And I would like to see a relative size. 
Thanks Kam.


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## EngrPaul

Mine takes about 15 seconds. :tinfoil:



IanT61 said:


> Can anybody clear up some confusion around the ramp time on the Jetbeam III M. In selfbuilts review (great job by the way) its measured at 30 seconds but in the sections of the manual posted by EngrPaul it says 8 seconds??
> 
> 30 seconds seems a very long time especially if it always starts the ramping sequence in the same direction ie if you were near the bottom but wanted to go lower would you have to wait for it to ramp all the way to max and then work its way back down which could be 45secs or so .


----------



## EngrPaul

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Could one of you happy owners please post up a pick of this in your hand?
> Thanks Kam.


----------



## Kamakazikev24

WOW! that was fast! Thanks EngrPaul!
Yeah that looks like it would just fit in my pocket :twothumbs
Cheers!


----------



## selfbuilt

EngrPaul said:


> Mine takes about 15 seconds. :tinfoil:


Interesting ... are you sure that was the full ramp (light also flashes at 50%, which takes about 17 secs or so on mine). :thinking:

Just tested mine on 2xCR123A and 2xRCR, and got the same result as 18650 posted here - about 35 secs in total, with a 50% flash around 17-18 secs.

I'd much prefer a 15 sec total ramp personally - like JetBeam offers on the original 18650-only Jet-IIIlights. :shrug:


----------



## EngrPaul

Oh, I'm mistaken. It takes about 15 seconds until it flashes (I thought that was the end, not the middle!)

So then 30 seconds is about right.


----------



## IanT61

Thanks for checking the ramp timings guys - odd that they made it so long but there you go.

@ Kamakazikev24 - our nearest dealer is currently France but one of the UK sellers will be carrying Jetbeam soon


----------



## Mii

Quote:
Originally Posted by *EngrPaul* 

 
_I believe it's a 5A Q3, since it gives the same exposure value as the DBS when taking the picture at a constant F-stop and aperature._



> Yes your right (see my post #31), JETBeam confirmed the led is a Q5 A5.


 
so which one is it? Q5 or Q3? :thinking:


----------



## LandyDH

Very nice review. This light looks amazing- I really like the low mode.

I think you've convinced me this is what I need for my first light!


----------



## naked2

Mii said:


> so which one is it? Q5 or Q3? :thinking:


Q3 5A, as quoted directly from JetBeam in post #31 (in post #33 he made a typo).


----------



## JML

I just received my JETBeam Jet-III M, OP reflector, warm tint. This is an incredible light -- superbly designed and built! Worth every penny. One difference from what I see in the review, however; my light has a black o-ring in the bezel assembly, and not the red one shown in the review. I wonder if this is to mark the version with the warm tint LED.

One suggestion for JETBeam and Flavio: I wish there was a thin plastic sleeve to minimize the slight rattling of the CR123A batteries.


----------



## naked2

JML said:


> I wish there was a thin plastic sleeve to minimize the slight rattling of the CR123A batteries.


 
Get yourself a set of 18350s!  They fit perfect, no rattle, longer runtime!  The only thing is they're unprotected, but if you change them AS SOON AS the light starts to dim (or sooner), they won't be over discharged.

A fully charged set of UltraFire XSL 18350s will run almost two hours on high before they start to dim. You can buy them here.


----------



## KiwiMark

JML said:


> One suggestion for JETBeam and Flavio: I wish there was a thin plastic sleeve to minimize the slight rattling of the CR123A batteries.



I wonder if this one would work:
http://www.batteryjunction.com/acc-olight-magazine-spare.html
This fits 2 x CR123A or 2 x AW16340 Protected and slides into the Olight M20 instead of an 18650 cell. Since the Olight and the Jet-III M have the same battery options they should work fine in either.

I will try mine once my Jet-III M arrives (hopefully tomorrow).


----------



## selfbuilt

KiwiMark said:


> I wonder if this one would work:
> http://www.batteryjunction.com/acc-olight-magazine-spare.html
> This fits 2 x CR123A or 2 x AW16340 Protected and slides into the Olight M20 instead of an 18650 cell. Since the Olight and the Jet-III M have the same battery options they should work fine in either.


Yes, it does - but not with the plastic cap screwed on. The plastic cap has protruding portion that doesn't bother the M20 due to the spring in the head, but can't be used with the Jet-III M. 

Thanks for the reminder - I meant to include in the review that was rattle of bare 2xCR123A. The Olight battery holder is a perfect fit. :thumbsup:


----------



## Kamakazikev24

Has anyone tried this light with 18650 battery? Buyoutgear says they last 3 hours on full.... Sounds good to me!
The only thing is will these batterys, once charged fully hold there charge or will they slowly self discharge over a few weeks?
Also do they suffer from memory affect?
I know this post should really be in the battery thread but as I hope to use these in this flashlight I think it's relevant here, Hope that's OK!
Kam


----------



## DM51

Kamakazikev24 said:


> ... this post should really be in the battery thread but as I hope to use these in this flashlight I think it's relevant here, Hope that's OK!
> Kam


Your post is perfectly OK here, as the query is directly relevant to the light.


----------



## selfbuilt

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Has anyone tried this light with 18650 battery? Buyoutgear says they last 3 hours on full.... Sounds good to me!
> The only thing is will these batterys, once charged fully hold there charge or will they slowly self discharge over a few weeks?
> Also do they suffer from memory affect?


There's a runtime of this light on both Max and 50% on 18650 in the first post. Basically, time to 50% was exactly 3 hours on max, and about 6.5 hours on 50%. Those are on AW protected cells (I don't have unprotected cells to compare).

18650 (and all Li-ions) hold their charge for an extensive period of time - there's no significant self-discharge over short period of time. They do not suffer from a memory effect. Note that it is better to store them long-term at less then full capacity, but not depleted. Check out the batteries forum for more general info on Li-ions.


----------



## Kamakazikev24

Missed that, Thanks for the info and many thanks for the reviews that you must spend hours doing!
Great info on this site. I didn't even know half these flashlights existed before I came here! Not sure if thats a good or bad thing though....... LOL 
Thanks again Kam.


----------



## JML

Thanks for the tip and confirmation about the Olight battery sleeve. I just placed an order.

This light is so good that I am finding it hard to resist the urge to buy another...


----------



## Kamakazikev24

Just had an Email from Jetbeam informing me that ledfire.co.uk will be the UK dealer for them!
And to contact Rob at [email protected]
There web site is in the process of being updated. 
Just to say I do not have any ties with this online store, just sharing info so that UK members can order from within the UK if they wish to.
Kam.


----------



## KiwiMark

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, it does - but not with the plastic cap screwed on. The plastic cap has protruding portion that doesn't bother the M20 due to the spring in the head, but can't be used with the Jet-III M.



You must be able to use the cap after a modification with a sharp knife surely? I might order a couple more spare holders so I have enough for both lights + spare batteries, I might cut off the protrusion on all of them to ensure they all fit either light.

My Jet-IIIM has arrived and it is very nice. The tint is noticeably warmer than every other LED light I own. The minimum is quite a bit lower than my other 2 IBS Jetbeam lights are able to be set to. I quite like the interface - simple yet versatile. :thumbsup:


----------



## selfbuilt

KiwiMark said:


> You must be able to use the cap after a modification with a sharp knife surely?


That might work. But note that the Jet-III M doesn't use a spring (like the M20) but only has a slightly raised contact button in the head. It looks to me like it should be able to clear the olight plastic cap opening with the cap's lanyard attachment removed, but you would have to test this.


----------



## KiwiMark

selfbuilt said:


> It looks to me like it should be able to clear the olight plastic cap opening with the cap's lanyard attachment removed, but you would have to test this.



I might order a couple more of these battery holders and try modifying them.

I might as well throw in a quick review now that I have my light and have had a wee play:

The Tint:
It is interesting how you can shine two lights on the ceiling and see that one looks sorta blue and the other sorta yellow, then you take the one that looked sorta yellow and your new Jet-IIIM and shine them on the ceiling and you think that the one that looked sorta yellow now looks sorta blue - it's all relative!






The Interface:
Only 2 settings - tighten head for full, loosen for custom. Press switch for light on, click switch for light to stay on - click again to turn off. How much simpler could you want? 
And yet if I compare it to my Fenix which has: tighten for full-strobe or loosen for lo-med-hi-SOS (6 modes), the Jet-IIIM has 2 modes vs 6 for my Fenix - but the Jet-III is more versatile thanks to the IBS on the custom mode. 
I tested the minimum output when I got up for a drink of water at 3am - low enough so that it didn't hurt my dark adjusted eyes, bright enough so that I could see just fine. 
I really like the simple but versatile UI - full power + custom setting can give you whatever you need in normal real world use.
You could set the custom output to:
Minimum - great for camping to use with night adapted vision.
Low - great for enough light, but a really good run time.
Medium - strong light, but more run time and less heat than full.
Strobe (fast) - for security work where you want full or strobe as needed.
Strobe (slower) - for use as a bike light?
SOS - change to this in an emergency to attract attention?
Whatever you need it to be the custom setting CAN be!





The build:
No comments on this really - I would notice anything I don't like, but there is nothing to notice here - everything is as it should be on a quality light so I am very happy with no negatives to notice!




The ability to tailstand is no biggie, but it is nice that this light can do it.

The batteries:
I have 18650 cells for normal use - lotsa power, lotsa runtime.
I have 16340 cells for max output.
I have CR123A cells for a backup power source.
Being able to use any of these is pretty nice!





My advice:
If you don't have this light then you should order one - this is a truly useful, functional light that will work simply and reliably in just about any situation you are likely to need a light in.


----------



## Mii

I was wondering about output and brightnes sense it has Q3 (neutral white) instead of Q5, so i send an email to Jetbeam:



> i heard about warm tint JET-III M. If its got a Q3 5A led doesn't that meen it got lesser lumens output than Q5 version?
> My calculations might be wrong sense im no expert, but im calculating Q3 to have max lumens of 188-200 at current of 700mA?
> does that change lights brightness/output? or is it driven more then 700mA?


 


> Thank you for your email here.
> 
> Here,I would like to give you the message from our engineers for your question.Hope it helps! : )
> 
> "We are also wondering about the problem you mettioned . Q3 version, in theory, got lesser lumens output than Q5 version .However,our test result about warm tint JET-III M showed that the Q3 and Q5 version got the same brightness ,same output ,and also the same runtime. It should be due to the lower VF value of the LED that makes the brightness higher. "
> 
> Anyfurther issues ,please feel free to let us know! thanks!
> 
> Best regards,
> Ame
> JETBeam Group
> R.Z.


 
that was good to hear:twothumbs.
It would be nice to see some beamshot for comparison or opinions about the output/brightnes compared. 

Ps. i really dont understand much about flaslight electronics so could someone explain what Jetbeam means about lower vF value, and how does it keep the same output levels with different led?


----------



## ingokl

Vf is the forward voltage of the LED, that is the voltage needed for a certain current through the LED. So the lower Vf of the Q3 means, for example, that ist needs let's say 3.5V for a current of 700mA whereas the Q5 needs e.g. 3.7V for that. Don't take these numbers for granted, it's just meant as an example.
Now...as far as I know Jetbeam lights are voltage regulated, so the power circuit is build to deliver a constant voltage to the LED, in this case (again...just for example ) 3.7V. That would mean 700mA current through the Q5 LED. Opposed to that the use of the Q3 which only needs 3.5V for 700mA would result in a higher current and that way to an higher output compensating the smaller output of the Q3 at a given current.
So in fact, if Iam not wrong, the Q3 is driven slightly harder than the Q5. And considering the runtimes und output numbers of selfbuilt I am quite sure both LED are driven much higher than 700mA, I guess it is more like 1A or even slightly more.


----------



## Kamakazikev24

Has no one got ANYTHING bad to say about this light!?


----------



## EngrPaul

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Has no one got ANYTHING bad to say about this light!?


 
It doesn't have voice recognition, or a digital battery remaining capacity readout.


----------



## KiwiMark

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Has no one got ANYTHING bad to say about this light!?



It is a little bulky in a pocket for an EDC - I'll stick with my Jet-I Pro for the better EDC size.

And

Um

Err

No, that's about all I can think of.



It would be easier if you asked about bad points of a cheap 'no brand' sort of light with a clumsy UI and poor finish. Dearer lights generally and Jetbeam specifically are hard to find faults with. A well made, high quality light will always get good reviews and much praise.


----------



## EngrPaul

I have a few lights that change brightness by bumping the tailcap switch.

Unfortunately, this makes them poor tactical signalers.

The user interface of the JB is very useful, you can always signal full power. :twothumbs


----------



## StandardBattery

It seems like lately I get excited about a JetBeam and then see the RunTime or something and have to pass. 

*NOT THIS TIME!*


----------



## StandardBattery

EngrPaul said:


> It doesn't have voice recognition, or a digital battery remaining capacity readout.


OH Phenix!! I've already placed my order!


----------



## selfbuilt

EngrPaul said:


> It doesn't have voice recognition, or a digital battery remaining capacity readout.


That's a good one 

"JetBeam, set power to max - full light speed ahead."
"Ya batteries cannot handle da strain, c'tain! She's breakin' up ..."



Mii said:


> Ps. i really dont understand much about flaslight electronics so could someone explain what Jetbeam means about lower vF value, and how does it keep the same output levels with different led?


I suspect what JetBeam meant to say is that the Q3 (neutral white) specimen they tested had a lower Vf than the Q5 (cool white). That doesn't mean you should assume all Q3s will have lower Vf.

My understanding is that the output bin is lower on the neutral (i.e. "warm") tints because of the extra phosphor needed to lower the colour temperature. This effectively lowers their output compared to the standard cool white tints. I doubt there is a general Vf trend (unless there are guaranteed low Vf bin batches that people are using).

To help put that into context, Vf varies a lot (most manufacturers do not select guaranteed Vf bins - as much as I would like them to). For a comparison, see my Jet-II PRO review - there you'll see two lights with the same circuit and Q5 emitter, but rather different output/runtimes, likely due to Vf differences.


----------



## Mii

> I suspect what JetBeam meant to say is that the Q3 (neutral white) specimen they tested had a lower Vf than the Q5 (cool white). That doesn't mean you should assume all Q3s will have lower Vf.
> 
> My understanding is that the output bin is lower on the neutral (i.e. "warm") tints because of the extra phosphor needed to lower the colour temperature. This effectively lowers their output compared to the standard cool white tints. I doubt there is a general Vf trend.
> 
> To help put that into context, Vf varies a lot (most manufacturers do not select guaranteed Vf bins - as much as I would like them to). For a comparison, see my Jet-II PRO review - there you'll see two lights with the same circuit and Q5 emitter, but rather different output/runtimes, likely due to Vf differences.


 
does that mean that Q3 version is more likely to have lesser throw and overall output? if i wanted to have maximum throw should i go with the standard version?:thinking:


----------



## selfbuilt

Mii said:


> does that mean that Q3 version is more likely to have lesser throw and overall output? if i wanted to have maximum throw should i go with the standard version?:thinking:


Q3 output bins are rated at 94-100 lumens at 350mA. Q5 output bins are rated at 107-114 lumens at 350mA.

So that's a 14% improvement of Q5 output over Q3, on average. But a "bad" Q5 is only 7% better than a "good" Q3 (or, a "good" Q5 could be 21% better than a "bad" Q3).

But note that the exact relationship between bins may not hold up at higher drive currents. Also, Vf differences can slightly affect output (and certainly greatly affect runtime, especially at lower outputs).

At the end of the day, I think it's far more important to pick the tint you want. For your ref, here's a comparison pic of a typical cool tint Fenix L2D to the 5A tint of the TK20:






And here's a control shot in daylight (all pics taken with camera white balance set to daylight):


----------



## Mii

:thanks:for explaining all that...
I actually think i like that cool white color more. And apparently you can chance the led if you want to https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/209446


----------



## naked2

Great picture comparison! :thumbsup: To _me_, the Q5 WC looks MUCH closer to sunlight (as far as color rendition) than the Q3 5A.


----------



## selfbuilt

naked2 said:


> Great picture comparison! :thumbsup: To _me_, the Q5 WC looks MUCH closer to sunlight (as far as color rendition) than the Q3 5A.


I agree, although the 5A does help differentiate the darker colored bush on the left from the lighter green ones - and the reds look a lot nicer.

But personally, I still prefer slightly warm-tint versions of cool-white emitter (i.e. WD) even those that tend to a bit of green (i.e. WG, WH). Can't quite get use to overall orange-yellow tint of the 5A.

To each his/her own ...


----------



## naked2

Me too, reminds me too much of incandescent; once you go white, you never go back! :naughty: Oh wait, that doesn't rhyme! :duh2:


----------



## EngrPaul

Lens upgrade option

Original measurements: 28.07mm x 2.44mm
Replacement/Upgrade: 28.6mm x 2.84mm

From flashlightlens.com $6.25 + $1.55 first class shipping.

Makes the reflector glow blue&violet from the violet A/R coating. My light is the "warm" option, the beam is peachy white. Violet an peach are fantastic together.

Lens is a little thicker than the stock glass, but the bezel still fits fine. The bezel gap is slightly bigger, I added an unused black o-ring to fill the gap and provide an additional guard against dirt and moisture. There's a gap with my light regardless. 

The diameter of the lens fills up the opening better with some gap still left over around the edges.

Here's some pictures, they barely begin to show how awesome the front end looks with the upgraded lens.


----------



## rantanplan

<--- happy owner of a Jet-III M too (since today ) Nice light  ... and Thanks for the excellent review too



naked2 said:


> Me too, reminds me too much of incandescent; once you go white, you never go back! :naughty: Oh wait, that doesn't rhyme! :duh2:



I modded one of my Fenix LxD-heads with a Q2 5C (range 4000-3800K) (5A wasn´t available that time) to avoid buying a TK20 and .... yes, it´s like a underpowered incan: very yellow-orange. Hadn´t had the time to do a full scale evalution in an outdoor condition so far, but I guess I´ll stick with regular "warm looking" cool-whites. Maybe I´ll try with something around 4500K in the future again.

I hope for a LED that combines "cool-neutral" white with a good CRI ... :wave:


----------



## qwopzxnm

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Has no one got ANYTHING bad to say about this light!?



The weak pocket clip!!! But my opinion is really biased. Actually there's probably nothing wrong with it but I need to vent.

My wife bought me this light with an AW 18650 and the Pila charger from BugOutGear (GREAT customer service BTW). I was SO excited to get the light and when it arrived I spent the evening trying out all the different settings. By then it was dark outside and time to take the dog for a walk. I can't wait because now I get to try out my first real flashlight. Clip it to my waistband walk out the door and I bend down to tie my shoe, stand up and I hear it hit the concrete!!!!!! :hairpull::hairpull::hairpull::hairpull::hairpull:

Not even in my hands for 6 hours and now it has a nick in the tailcap that I can feel whenever I carry it and a tiny scratch in the finish towards the head. I know it's a very well built light and the performance wasn't affected at all but it still kills me.

/end vent


----------



## jzelek

I feel your pain!

I discovered early on after dropping 2 flashlights on the sidewalk that I needed to start using a landyard when walking my dog. It allows me to hook up his leash, open/close doors and take gloves/hats on/off without worrying about my $100.00+ lights getting damaged. All my lights now have them installed. 

I also have the JETbeam military (great light) and that comes with a good landyard too, try it out.


----------



## JML

I modified the Olight battery pack so it will fit in the JETBeam Jet-III M -- and it will do so perfectly, with the screw-on cap mounted on the battery pack.

I cut off the lanyard ear loop. On the first pack, I was cautious and used a Dremel using a thin cut-off wheel, followed by a diamond disk; on the second pack, I used a sharp Xuron flush cutter. I left small nibs, and then to finish it off, I used 1500 grit sandpaper to smooth out the entire top of the cap, and finished it off with some plastic polish to smooth it out completely, leaving only the little recessed rectangle from under the ear. (Yeah, I'm a perfectionist.)

The oval-hole cap is on the (+) end of the pack, and when it's smooth, it fits in the head of the JETBeam perfectly; the spring on the tail switch of the JETBeam fits through the round hole on the (-) end of the cap. The whole thing fits in the JETBeam as if made for it. No rattling at all!


----------



## Kamakazikev24

JML said:


> I modified the Olight battery pack so it will fit in the JETBeam Jet-III M -- and it will do so perfectly, with the screw-on cap mounted on the battery pack.
> 
> I cut off the lanyard ear loop. On the first pack, I was cautious and used a Dremel using a thin cut-off wheel, followed by a diamond disk; on the second pack, I used a sharp Xuron flush cutter. I left small nibs, and then to finish it off, I used 1500 grit sandpaper to smooth out the entire top of the cap, and finished it off with some plastic polish to smooth it out completely, leaving only the little recessed rectangle from under the ear. (Yeah, I'm a perfectionist.)
> 
> The oval-hole cap is on the (+) end of the pack, and when it's smooth, it fits in the head of the JETBeam perfectly; the spring on the tail switch of the JETBeam fits through the round hole on the (-) end of the cap. The whole thing fits in the JETBeam as if made for it. No rattling at all!


 
Got any PICS!!!!!! Please!


----------



## Kamakazikev24

OK!, as it seems no one has anything bad to say about this jetbeam the time for talk is over and I have pushed the magic button!
Went to order it and it's showing 'out of stock!'
But I ordered and payed anyway and should be hear next week sometime......Yay!
I also ordered a M20 battery tube to stop the rattle with primarys. 
Can't wait to get it now. 
Kam.


----------



## KiwiMark

Kamakazikev24 said:


> I also ordered a M20 battery tube to stop the rattle with primarys.



Just one? I have ordered spare battery tubes because it makes changing the batteries much easier - battery tube with batteries in torch, spare tube with spare batteries in pocket or wherever ready for quick swap.


----------



## Kamakazikev24

yeah I might get more tubes after I have seen how they fit. 

Why is it that when order a new flashlight it 'seems' to take forever to come!!......


----------



## KD5XB

EngrPaul said:


> Lens upgrade option
> 
> Original measurements: 28.07mm x 2.44mm
> Replacement/Upgrade: 28.6mm x 2.84mm
> 
> From flashlightlens.com $6.25 + $1.55 first class shipping.


Is this a standard UCL or Borofloat lens, or is it something specifically custom-made for the Jet-III MIlitary?



Kamakazikev24 said:


> OK!, as it seems no one has anything bad to say about this jetbeam the time for talk is over and I have pushed the magic button!


Yeah, me too -- it just sucked me in!



Kamakazikev24 said:


> Why is it that when order a new flashlight it 'seems' to take forever to come!!......



Geez, same here -- wish I had the extra $30 for Next-Day Air! Oh well, should be here soon...


----------



## EngrPaul

KD5XB said:


> Is this a standard UCL or Borofloat lens, or is it something specifically custom-made for the Jet-III MIlitary?


 
It's a UCL lens. It's on their list of sizes with no application listed.


----------



## StandardBattery

*Another Positive Report! :twothumbs*
I got my Jet-III-M actually quite a few days ago, but I had to wait to use it. First I will say it is nicely designed, machined, and annodized, it simply looks great. I did notice one thing they could improve, the threading for the head seems to have a bit too much play. When I turned to low/user-level just the slightest pressure on the head or just movement was causing the light to blink off, I tightened it a bit and then just the slightest thumb pressure was able to switch the levels. There was a "very" narrow range where the light was stable in the user-level position. The threads look nice and thick and they were very clean and lubricated, but just too much play. Of course this thumb activated level contol could be handy in some situations.

This Flashlight has the smallest/tightest inner diameter of any 18650 lights I own. No battery rattle on this one with an AW18650 (protected), they fit like a glove without sticking at all, smooth like they were made go together.

This is the first Warm Tint light I've purchased, helped me justify it when I already had the TK11 and needed to test the EagleTac T10L as well. I can say I really like the warm tint outdoors. It was too cold for much examination, but I really liked it.

I've just compared it so far to the TK11, and they seemed to match almost exactly in throw, but I might give the slightest edge to the TK11, but it could be just the tint difference. I need to compare them more, hopefully I'll get a chance this weekend. This means though there is little doubt it will out throw the EagleTac T10L.

I'm very happy with the Jet-III-Mw, it's a good time for 18650 based lights. I may even have to try a TK20 now. 

:candle:


----------



## faucon

StandardBattery said:


> *Another Positive Report! :twothumbs*
> I got my Jet-III-M actually quite a few days ago, but I had to wait to use it. First I will say it is nicely designed, machined, and annodized, it simply looks great. I did notice one thing they could improve, the threading for the head seems to have a bit too much play. When I turned to low/user-level just the slightest pressure on the head or just movement was causing the light to blink off, I tightened it a bit and then just the slightest thumb pressure was able to switch the levels. There was a "very" narrow range where the light was stable in the user-level position. The threads look nice and thick and they were very clean and lubricated, but just too much play. Of course this thumb activated level contol could be handy in some situations.
> 
> This Flashlight has the smallest/tightest inner diameter of any 18650 lights I own. No battery rattle on this one with an AW18650 (protected), they fit like a glove without sticking at all, smooth like they were made go together.
> 
> This is the first Warm Tint light I've purchased, helped me justify it when I already had the TK11 and needed to test the EagleTac T10L as well. I can say I really like the warm tint outdoors. It was too cold for much examination, but I really liked it.
> 
> I've just compared it so far to the TK11, and they seemed to match almost exactly in throw, but I might give the slightest edge to the TK11, but it could be just the tint difference. I need to compare them more, hopefully I'll get a chance this weekend. This means though there is little doubt it will out throw the EagleTac T10L.
> 
> I'm very happy with the Jet-III-Mw, it's a good time for 18650 based lights. I may even have to try a TK20 now.
> 
> :candle:


Interesting. I like my Jet-III M , too. On the plus side, very well-constructed; takes a variety of cells; IBS; fantastic thrower. I'd also have to say that the color rendition at night is better than most of my other LED lights, especially in a natural setting with trees and foliage. 

As minor negatives (for me personally), I prefer a slightly larger hotspot that blends more gradually into a brighter, larger spillbeam. But that's why I now also own an EagleTac T10C2!


----------



## KD5XB

KD5XB said:


> Geez, same here -- wish I had the extra $30 for Next-Day Air! Oh well, should be here soon...



It's here! Now I have to figure it all out!

I DID already figure out that you have to be in the user-selectable mode to get to the menu -- that one drove me nuts for a a half-hour or so!


----------



## Norm

StandardBattery said:


> *Another Positive Report! :twothumbs*
> I did notice one thing they could improve, the threading for the head seems to have a bit too much play.


Send it back mine is perfect, head has just the right resistance for turning.
Love the warm LED, very happy with the purchase.
Norm


----------



## Kamakazikev24

Just had a Email from Neolumens in france saying they now have stock, BUT they say it has a NEW reflector, 3/4 smo and 1/4 OP!
They say it has a new and improved beam pattern. They should be sending it out to me today. At last!! LOL


----------



## Norm

I notice members in this thread saying that they think the red O ring denotes the warmer LED, I have the warm LED and a black O ring.
The red looks nice and as already mentioned a red push-button cover would look really cool.
Norm


----------



## Kamakazikev24

I think there all black now. Shame as I liked the red ones.


----------



## naked2

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Just had a Email from Neolumens in france saying they now have stock, BUT they say it has a NEW reflector, 3/4 smo and 1/4 OP!
> They say it has a new and improved beam pattern. They should be sending it out to me today. At last!! LOL


I don't know about these, but the new (presale) Jet Ti M will have the new reflector! :thumbsup:


----------



## KD5XB

My J3M has the original ("cool") LED and a RED o-ring. I suspect they just install whatever they have available at the time.


----------



## Mii

Got mine yesterday!!!  SMO and regular cool tint and also red O-rings very nice!

Ps. does anybody know any good belt holsters?


----------



## Golfer2000

Im a little unclear as to how the strobe feature works. Once you are in the strobe mode will it stay in strobe mode unless you take it out? Can you just turn it off an on several times and will it stay in strobe still? I just want the ability to stay in strobe mode regardless of turning it off and on. Thanks!


----------



## Kamakazikev24

I'am still waitng for mine by as I under stand it with the bezel loose, ie user settng mode, I will be in what ever you set it at and will stay that way until you reprograme. When you tighten the bezel it will always be on a High steady beam. 
Hopng to have mine today, it's on it's way from France. 

A note on Jetbeam Service!
The shop in France informed me that the Military flashlight they are sending has a NEW reflector 3/4 smo 1/4 Op and that it had black Orings. 
Now I really liked the red ones so I email Jetbeam and for the price of post, 5USD they have sent me 2 sets of Red Orings and also two extra rubber tail switch covers! Top aftercare Jetbeam!
Thankyou!


----------



## KD5XB

Yes, that's right -- with the "head" screwed on all teh way, the flashlight is at maximum brightness with no flash or any other effect. When you unscrew the head a bit, you get the user-defined mode, and that canbe a strobe, a dimmer beam, an SOS either bright or dim, etc. The user-defined mode stays wherever you set it, until you change it, and it is accessed by loosening the head. Tightening the head will always get you back to a full-power beam.


----------



## faucon

Kamakazikev24 said:


> Just had a Email from Neolumens in france saying they now have stock, BUT they say it has a NEW reflector, 3/4 smo and 1/4 OP!
> They say it has a new and improved beam pattern. They should be sending it out to me today. At last!! LOL


Hmm, I wonder whether the new reflectors can be purchased separately and retrofitted to existing J3Ms? One of the few things I've wanted to change on my Jet-III M has been the somewhat ringy beam and (for me) slightly too small hotspot.


----------



## JML

Flavio says he's looking into the new reflector's availability for those of us who purchased the light already. But he said there won't be any in his new shipment, due next week.


----------



## Kamakazikev24

I have one, and to be honest I am disapointed with it.
It seems that for the first 1/4 of the reflector nearest the LED there is loads of TINY concentric rings, which I presume are ment to be the OP part, the rest is smooth.
These rings are not really that different to the smooth part. In fact it could be a smooth one they have sent me!
I have a Dark cresent shape around approx half the beam, It looks like the pic that selfbuilt took when he said the reflector had a bit of the O'ring stuck under it. 
But it is not that and nothing I do gets rid of it.
I think this is goimg to have to go back. I did order it with the OP reflector but they sent this as they said it was the new improved version. 
Maybe I was just unlucky.
I just need Henry to get some Clickys over to the UK and I will have one of them.
Kam.
Does anyone know where I can get a OP reflector to try in this? Be aware that I am in the UK.
Thanks Kam. 

Oh and the Hotspot seems Smaller or NO larger than in selfbuilts pics as well.


----------



## Mii

some beamshots compared to JET-III PRO, and other pics.
http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=61386

PRO seems much brighter?


----------



## JML

Mii said:


> some beamshots compared to JET-III PRO, and other pics.
> http://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?t=61386
> 
> PRO seems much brighter?


 
If you read ALL the messages in that thread, the beamshot comparison is between the warm tint Jet-III M and the original colder tint Jet-III Pro, which the poster didn't realize until afterwards...


----------



## rantanplan

JML said:


> If you read ALL the messages in that thread, the beamshot comparison is between the warm tint Jet-III M and the original colder tint Jet-III Pro, which the poster didn't realize until afterwards...



Sorry, I don´t see that anywhere in the mentioned thread. 

Both JetIII Pro and JetIII from the beamshots are regular cold whites. Something about a neutral-white was mentioned later by another member, who thought (falsely) that his JetIII Pro had a warmer version. And the beamshots were made in early october ... guess there weren´t any "M" with neutral whites available at that time.

I own a JetIII Pro and a JetIII M, both "cold white", and my Pro is about 18% brighter than my "M" (same for 2x 16340 and 18650). The difference isn´t so big, usually you won´t notice it IMHO.


----------



## JML

Rantanplan, I'm sure your German is better than mine! I was relying on Google's translation, and it's far from perfect.


----------



## selfbuilt

rantanplan said:


> I own a JetIII Pro and a JetIII M, both "cold white", and my Pro is about 18% brighter than my "M" (same for 2x 16340 and 18650). The difference isn´t so big, usually you won´t notice it IMHO.


According to my lightbox, my Jet-III Pro is ~4% brighter than my Jet-III M, and my Jet-III ST is ~9% brighter (all on 18650).

As a general rule, well-regulated 18650-only lights will outperform multi-power circuits on 18650. It is exceedingly difficult to drive multi-power lights maximally on a single Li-ion (i.e. the multi-power light has to handle a very wide voltage input range).


----------



## faucon

JML said:


> Flavio says he's looking into the new reflector's availability for those of us who purchased light already. But he said there won't be any in his new shipment, due next week.


Thanks for the info.


----------



## CM

Nice review. I think I may have to try one out. It looks like it runs in regulation with 18650 for a short period of time depending on Vf. I like that.


----------



## Golfer2000

JML said:


> Flavio says he's looking into the new reflector's availability for those of us who purchased the light already. But he said there won't be any in his new shipment, due next week.


 I ordered over the weekend any chance of getting one?


----------



## Kalle

Are there somewhere also beamshots showing a larger distance? 20 or 50 meters for example?
i don´t think these 1-5 meter beamshots do really show what the flashlight can....


P.S. Which one would you prefer, Jetbeam III M or Olight M20 Warrior Premium?


----------



## selfbuilt

Kalle said:


> Are there somewhere also beamshots showing a larger distance? 20 or 50 meters for example?


Don't know if anyone has done these (check out some of the other threads in the LED section).

In any case, it won't show you much - as my up-close beamshots show, the M20 and Jet-III M have similar patterns with similar throw and overall spillbeam width. As the end of the day, the M20 has slightly more output (and slightly more throw) - but this is not readily noticeable unless you compare directly side by side (and even then, tint differences obscure your ability to tell).

Basically, I would choose between these lights based on feature and performance - theactual beams are pretty similar.


----------



## Kalle

Ok thanks for the answer! 
I will have a closer look at the features of these lights.
Is it right that the Jetbeam has the better building quality?


----------



## KiwiMark

Kalle said:


> P.S. Which one would you prefer, Jetbeam III M or Olight M20 Warrior Premium?



Hmm, I actually have both these lights.

To be honest I like them both, I got the M20 Premium which has the R2 LED with a little more output - this is my strongest thrower. I got the warm tint Jetbeam, this is my most visually pleasing output light. The M20 has 4 modes accessed by tightening & loosening the head to change between them, it remembers the last mode and always starts on that. The Jetbeam only has 2 modes - full power when you tighten the head and custom setting when you loosen the head - but the custom setting can be anything you want, so advantage to Jetbeam on the UI in my opinion. I really think the ability to set the custom mode on the Jetbeam to anything you like is a hard feature to beat - you can set a lower low setting than the Olight offers or a useful medium setting, strobe, SOS or whatever - you then have your personal custom setting or full power, no other rubbish to cycle through.

The build quality may be better on the Jetbeam, but both are excellent so no biggie. I did remove the cigar grip & clip from the M20 because I found them really uncomfortable, but with them gone the torch feels good in my hand. The Jetbeam came with a really good 2 way clip which is a nice feature.

I like both and think most people would be happy with either. If I were forced to only keep one then I would probably go with the Jetbeam.

If you are going to use 2 x 16340 or 2 x CR123 cells in the Jetbeam then you can stop them rattling by buying a spare Olight battery tube or 2 I use these with either light.


----------



## StarHalo

Norm said:


> I notice members in this thread saying that they think the red O ring denotes the warmer LED, I have the warm LED and a black O ring.



O-ring color denotes what it's made of - red is silicone, black is nitrile, clear is polyurethane.


----------



## madi05

i wanted to thank u guys for your hardwork for us newbies , i just ordered me a Military due to this and other posts i have read, this is one of my first real flashlight buys other than maglights and taskforce stuff nearby so i am excited to get this one for sure , i was going the wrong way till i read a good bit , ordered from bug out gear so soon i will be showing it off, lol 

thanks to the guys that pmed me back and fourth with my many questions , lol u guys are top notch 

madi05


----------



## madi05

StarHalo said:


> O-ring color denotes what it's made of - red is silicone, black is nitrile, clear is polyurethane.



which is a better oring ,, also is there a glow in the dark one that will fit and also endcap glow in the dark like fenix has ?

thanks


----------



## StarHalo

madi05 said:


> which is a better oring



For our flashlight purposes, they're all technically the same. All handle any lubricant type, last a long time, and are easily replaced.



madi05 said:


> also is there a glow in the dark one that will fit



I don't own an M, but I wager one of these would fit: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=164597&highlight=rings



madi05 said:


> and also endcap glow in the dark like fenix has ?



That I don't know - hopefully one of the glow-crazed folk here would know. The only JetBeam model that I'm aware of that came stock with a glow-cap was the Jet I Mk IBS, which had a notably smaller switch.


----------



## pltan

My M just arrived in the mail today , and wow.....very impressed... I love it.


What kind of holster/pouch do you guys use with yours, and do you have any other accessories?

I did notice with using the AWC123 batteries there is considerable rattle, as the batteries themselves are smaller than the 18650 (which happens to be a great fit)

Have any of you taken off the built-in clip, I find it's placing a little bit awkward, perhaps it's designed for holster use?

Would love to see pics of different mods or accessories, bezels you guys might have on yours


----------



## selfbuilt

pltan said:


> What kind of holster/pouch do you guys use with yours, and do you have any other accessories?
> I did notice with using the AWC123 batteries there is considerable rattle, as the batteries themselves are smaller than the 18650 (which happens to be a great fit)
> Have any of you taken off the built-in clip, I find it's placing a little bit awkward, perhaps it's designed for holster use?


I just use the clip with mine. It is removable, but may require a little force. For a holster, I find the Stallion half-holster (designed for the inova T4/T5) fits well and allows for easy access. I'm sure plenty more would fit, though.

As for the rattle, that's to be expected in order to allow the wider protected 18650 cells to have access. The spare battery holder that Olight sells for the M20 is a perfect fit for the Jet-III M as well (you just need to remove the cap hook piece on the holder, or skip the cap altogether).


----------



## KiwiMark

selfbuilt said:


> As for the rattle, that's to be expected in order to allow the wider protected 18650 cells to have access. The spare battery holder that Olight sells for the M20 is a perfect fit for the Jet-III M as well (you just need to remove the cap hook piece on the holder, or skip the cap altogether).



I find the cap is unneeded - just use the body of the battery holder and it works perfectly to stop the rattle. I have bought 2 Olight battery holders for my Jet-IIIM and find they work well.


----------



## naked2

I use 2x 18350 (I know, they're *NOT* protected); no rattle and longer runtime than 16340s, and flatter regulation than 18650s.


----------



## pltan

Interesting...I'll try and find this battery holder....

I guess all holsters are pretty expensive, I was looking at Maxpedition's Universal Flashlight holder...that beast is 25 bucks.


----------



## KD5XB

I asked the same thing back at the end of November -- see this thread -- but even though the holster I ordered was fairly inexpensive, when shipping was added, it was around $20 anyway. And the one I got works very well, except for the clip on the flashlight catches inside the holster. But if you're thinking of removing the clip anyway...


----------



## Long RunTime

naked2 said:


> I don't know about these, but the new (presale) Jet Ti M will have the new reflector! :thumbsup:


Jet Ti M... I can't wait for mine.


----------



## analogguy

*TI Jetbeam III Military*

Just thought that I would give a heads up in case you still would like one. I thought that I had missed out, but on the off chance that maybe someone cancelled their order, I contacted BugOutGear. They told me that they had ordered a few extra. Now is your chance...Good luck!


----------



## livingaboard

If I have to gripe about this light at all, it would be the following.

The attachment method for the spring in the tail cap is cheesy. It should be a tubular rivet, not a little piece of metal with a solder blob.

The tailcap has to be fairly tight in order to make good electrical conduct, otherwise the light goes on and off intermittently.

No battery carrier included with the light to eliminate rattle with 123's

The anodizing all over the light is crazed. Like little spider webs from cap to head. It doesn't bother me but I was being picky like some are it is worth mentioning.

The beam has rings


All said, I would not hesitate to recommend this light to anybody, especially at the $71 I paid for it.

It encourages me to proceed with the M1x purchase, but I will still wait for the reviews to come in.


----------



## EngrPaul

livingaboard said:


> The attachment method for the spring in the tail cap is cheesy. It should be a tubular rivet, not a little piece of metal with a solder blob.


 
Ever have to deal with a loose rivet?


----------



## livingaboard

EngrPaul said:


> Ever have to deal with a loose rivet?


 
A loose rivet on a flashlight? no. I have, however, put in tens of thousands of rivets, if not more, for commercial airplane production and the proper rivet used in right application would be way better than what I am seeing here.


----------



## madi05

jet beams warranty program is excellent , sounds like u are not satisfied, send it back to get a new one or a refund is my suggestion

madi05


----------



## tancg87

Can Z33 Lanyard be use with Jet-3-M flashlight?


----------



## StandardBattery

livingaboard said:


> *...*
> The tailcap has to be fairly tight in order to make good electrical conduct, otherwise the light goes on and off intermittently.
> *...*



I had a small episode that was related to this. I had a loose tailcap, and I guess the intermittent connection was enough to put the light into program mode, and eventually change my low setting to strobe. I though the light was dead at one point as well. I had to grab another light until I had time to look at it and figure out what happened.

Of course no flashlight works well with a loose tailcap, so I don't consider this a fault. Just interesting on how it could reprogram my light. I'm not sure why the tailcap was loose, but I'm making a point of checking it and making sure it is tight. I was wondering if twisting the head, with the battery in there can loosen the tail cap?

Anyone else notice their tailcap a little loose?

Still very happy with this light, I think JetBeam really scored.


----------



## DHart

Largely based on selfbuilt's great review, I confidently ordered a Jet III-M. Got my Jet III-M today. I'm really impressed with this light... and find the UI superb and simple... I love the ability to use with a 18650 (what I am using), 2*16340, and 2*CR123, the super low light level, soft grey color type III anodization, the ability to tailstand if ever needed for candle mode in a power outage, great build quality. 

I ordered a warm tint/hybrid reflector from BugOutGear and my reflector sure looks fairly smo to me, but perhaps that's how the hybrid looks... there is a soft darkish corona in the beam around the hotspot. The full ramp time on my sample from MIN to MAX brightness is about 40 seconds... a finding similar to several other users here. The 50% double flash indicator occurs at about 20 seconds.

I'm extremely pleased with the build, UI, and features and would eagerly choose JetBeam for another flashlight. This experience makes me really want a single-cell JetBeam flashlight for EDC... like I really need another flashlight!


----------



## DHart

I retyped the scanned instruction manual that was provided earlier in this thread for those who may want to copy the text to plug into a text file, as I like to do. NOTE: I also edited the writing here and there to improve the use of the english language, for clarity.

========

MODE SWITCHING
There are two modes in JETBeam M series flashlights. Max brightness and user-defined mode. The user can switch modes quickly by tightening/loosening the light bezel.

By tightening the head, then clicking the light, MAX brightness is achieved.

When loosening the head, the light enters the user-defined mode. The user can define the brightness and function when in the user-defined mode.

USER DEFINED MODE SETTING
In the user-defined mode, switch the light off/on three times (or more) within one second, then the light enters Hidden Menu.

TIPS: This UI procedure is designed to avoid accidentally entering into Hidden Menu. As it is not easy to switch off/on three times or more in such a short period of time, simply half-press the button at the tail cap twice (or more), and then quickly click the button ON to enter Hidden Menu.

BRIGHTNESS SETTING
After entering the Hidden Menu, the light goes into the Brightness Setting directly. At this time, the brightness will go from Min to Max gradually, and stops at Max, then go back to Min and repeat the process. One cycle takes about 8 seconds. (38-40 seconds on several reported samples). During this process, the light flickers once at Min, twice at 50%, and three times at Max (100%) to as indicators of the current brightness level. Users can switch off the light at any preferred level, wait for more than 2 seconds to switch back on, then the brightness which was chosen will be memorized as the user-defined mode. Users can set different brightness levels according to specific needs.

SPECIAL FUNCTIONS SELECTING
After entering the Brightness Setting item of the Hidden Menu, switch the tailcap button off then on continuously in a second, and the light enters the Special Functions Selecting mode. In this mode, the light will perform all the special functions automatically. It initially goes from 1 Hz strobe to 15 Hz strobe, which takes about 8 seconds. Then it goes on performing other special functions, including warning signal, standby signal (it flickers once every 8 seconds to indicate the position of the light setting), 100% SOS and 5% SOS. 

These are the Special Functions in the order they are presented:

• 1 Hz strobe to 15 Hz strobe
• Standby Signal
• Warning Signal
• 100% SOS
• 5% SOS

To select any of the special functions to be the selected user-defined mode, just switch off the light while that function is being presented, and wait for more than 2 seconds before switching back on, then the function will be memorized as the user-defined mode.

RESET FUNCTION
To RESET: After entering the Special Functions Selecting item of the Hidden Menu, switch the light OFF and back ON again, then wait for about 3 seconds, and then switch the light OFF again, waiting for more than two seconds, and the light resumes the default mode (5% brightness level) as the user-defined mode from the factory. If you do not wish to reset, then switch the flashlight off and immediately switch back on within a second, then the light will go back to the Brightness Setting of the Hidden Menu.


----------



## naked2

I completely rewrote them here, IMO (and BOG's!) much easier to understand!


----------



## DHart

naked2... ah, good job. Well between here and there, it should be a piece of cake for the new user to get going!


----------



## phantom23

Jet-Ti M review and beautiful regulation even with single Li-Ion!


----------



## ALowe

EngrPaul said:


> Lens upgrade option
> 
> Original measurements: 28.07mm x 2.44mm
> Replacement/Upgrade: 28.6mm x 2.84mm
> 
> From flashlightlens.com $6.25 + $1.55 first class shipping.
> 
> Makes the reflector glow blue&violet from the violet A/R coating. My light is the "warm" option, the beam is peachy white. Violet an peach are fantastic together.
> 
> Lens is a little thicker than the stock glass, but the bezel still fits fine. The bezel gap is slightly bigger, I added an unused black o-ring to fill the gap and provide an additional guard against dirt and moisture. There's a gap with my light regardless.
> 
> The diameter of the lens fills up the opening better with some gap still left over around the edges.
> 
> Here's some pictures, they barely begin to show how awesome the front end looks with the upgraded lens.




What will this do as far as an upgrade to this light?

Respect,

A


----------



## EngrPaul

ALowe said:


> What will this do as far as an upgrade to this light?
> 
> Respect,
> 
> A


 

More light emitted through the lens, less bounced back toward the emitter.
Better fitting diameter lens
Better looking
Bezel stands up a little bit more than stock
I love this light so much, I'm looking for an excuse to get another. 

"I have two hands" is my latest excuse, do you think that will work?:nana:


----------



## MarNav1

Well if it gets your vote it certainly gets mine.


----------



## ALowe

EngrPaul said:


> More light emitted through the lens, less bounced back toward the emitter.
> Better fitting diameter lens
> Better looking
> Bezel stands up a little bit more than stock
> I love this light so much, I'm looking for an excuse to get another.
> 
> "I have two hands" is my latest excuse, do you think that will work?:nana:


 

So is it worth the upgrade?


----------



## EngrPaul

ALowe said:


> So is it worth the upgrade?


 
If I buy another light, I'll be buying another lens :thumbsup:


----------



## ALowe

EngrPaul said:


> If I buy another light, I'll be buying another lens :thumbsup:


 

I just got this light today, great light. I orderd it with the OP reflector. I searched and cant find beams with the difference. Anyone have OP, SMO, and the new hybrid?

Will be ordering the new lens thanks.

A


----------



## kfallscody

Okay so you all sold me on this light..  Now I need to know where to get one. Do you all order them from bugoutgearusa.com or from elsewhere?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## charlieton

Selfbuilt thanks for the review! This is my first LED flashlight and every time I turn it on, on max setting. It just blows me away. 

Every time. OH MY GOD. I love it!!! 

Thanks again


----------



## DHart

Got mine from Bugoutgear.... all went very well. I would buy from them again. I LOVE the warm tint LED!

The Jet III-Military is quite the flashlight... I think they may have set something of a standard with this model.


----------



## Long RunTime

DHart said:


> Got mine from Bugoutgear.... all went very well. I would buy from them again. I LOVE the warm tint LED!
> 
> The Jet III-Military is quite the flashlight... I think they may have set something of a standard with this model.



Great choice DHart. Just got my Jet Ti M from BOG, great dealer. Can't wait to see your great pictures review of light. Glad to see you like it over here. Hope to see your light collection soon.


----------



## DHart

LRT... mmmmm... a Jet Ti M, eh.... we need to see _your_ pics & review of that beauty! Congrats on that cool light! 

Yes, I'm sure I'll get around to some reviews/pics... my young flashlight addiction has resulted in a nice little collection of cool lights already.  Nice to see you "over here" too!


----------



## kfallscody

I know what you mean, I just recently got the fenix t20.. and a m60wl for my g2.. I am hooked on the warm tints..  I have already decided my jet-III M will be a warm tint as well, just can't get enough! 



DHart said:


> Got mine from Bugoutgear.... all went very well. I would buy from them again. I LOVE the warm tint LED!
> 
> The Jet III-Military is quite the flashlight... I think they may have set something of a standard with this model.


----------



## Monocrom

DHart said:


> Got mine from Bugoutgear.... all went very well. I would buy from them again. I LOVE the warm tint LED!


 
*+1 *on the excellent service from BOG. But I must admit I prefer the standard tint LED.



> The Jet III-Military is quite the flashlight... I think they may have set something of a standard with this model.


 
I hope not. Allow me to explain.... When I opened the box from BOG, containing my Jet-III Military, I was very happy with what I saw. When I held it in my hand, I could not believe how uncomfortable it was! The clip really got in the way; too thick. (Not to be confused with too wide). It surprised the Hell out of me. It reminded me why I still prefer to try out lights at B&M shops, before buying. 

My Eagletac P10A has the same clip design. I tried out a Surefire E1B a few months ago at a B&M shop. Both are very comfortable in my hand. The Jet-III Military is a completely different story. Even rotating the light around in my hand could not produce a comfortable position.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the light itself. It would be like being unhappy with a Corvette.... due to a lack of fuel economy. It just isn't comfortable, in my hands. Hopefully I'll get used to it. If not, perhaps I'll donate it to the next Christmas CPF Give-away. 

It's rare for me to hold a light that is uncomfortable in my hands, I really hope such lights don't become more common. It's a bit surprising that no one else has had the same issue with this light.


----------



## rantanplan

Monocrom said:


> [...]
> The clip really got in the way; too thick. (Not to be confused with too wide). It surprised the Hell out of me. It reminded me why I still prefer to try out lights at B&M shops, before buying. [...]



Yeah, I had the same feeling. Every time I grabbed that light, I had to "rotate" it in my hand a couple of times to find a pleasent position. The clip of the JetIII-Pro is way better ... I don´t need two clipping options, bezel up is enough for me.

I removed the clip meanwhile ... without it´s fine . But the JetIII-M bothers me in another ergonomic aspect: The switch button sits too deep in the tailcap. That´s fine for tailstanding, but a more easy accessible switch would have been the better solution for my needs.

But it is still fine light ... Thought of selling my JetIII-M, because it got a bit "redunant" next to my JetIII-Pro and M1X, but I didn´t had the heart to give it away so far .


----------



## KD5XB

Monocrom said:


> The clip really got in the way; too thick. (Not to be confused with too wide).



Just take the clip off -- it's easy and takes about 2 seconds.



Monocrom said:


> Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking the light itself. It would be like being unhappy with a Corvette.... due to a lack of fuel economy.



BTW -- I understand Corvettes get pretty good fuel economy -- something on the order of 25 MPG on the highway and 16 or so around town. Not as good as a Yugo, but still...


----------



## Monocrom

*To: rantanplan & KD5XB ~*

Taking the clip off wouldn't be difficult, but the fact that it has a clip is one of the main reasons why I bought it. (Love those clip-carried lights).

I'll try to get a conventional clip from a different JetBeam model. And just swap out the clip.

_*Does anyone know if Surefire clips can be installed on JetBeam lights?_

I have a seldom-used E1E. I'm thinking that both lights would benefit with each other's clips in place.


----------



## DHart

As with pretty much all products, there is no single perfect product in every way, for all applications. 

As for clips, yeah, I don't like clips on any of my flashlights, really. I agree the clip is a bit bulky, when it's on the light, I rotate the light so the clip is on the open side of the hand... as I pretty much do with any clip-equipped light. It is versatile being bi-directional. And if the clip isn't needed or important to a user (as in my case) it's easily removed. I've removed the clip from my Jet II-M and I really like is without the clip, which I don't need anyway.

The Jet III-M wonderfully meets the needs of an emergency preparedness or camp light, or military use exceptionally well.. with the 200 hour runtime, super low-low output, great UI, signaling, sos, ability to tailstand, durability, ability to use 2 primaries, 2 rechargeables, an 18650, a 17670, great throw, nice spill, different reflector options, etc. 

But that doesn't make it perfect for all applications. That's partly why we all have so many different lights! I would not EDC the Jet III-M, as I have other lights, smaller single cell, better suited for that, like my E1B. And for personal defense use, room sweeping, etc. I much prefer a P7 head and a far protruding momentary button, so I have a different light for that.

For me the Jet III-M is primo for going in my bugout bag, on camping trips, is primary light for power failures, and great for general purpose applications. It's actually kind of nice that it's not perfect for all applications, otherwise I wouldn't have good reason to buy other lights! 

Does anyone know if tail caps from other JetBeam lights could be used on the Jet III-M for times when a protruding momentary button is desired and tailstanding isn't needed? Being able to switch that out at times would make the light even more versatile.


----------



## DHart

ooops... nevermind...


----------



## leonpower

hello guys from Greece !!!

I did a lot of reading for this flashlight and i decided to buy it !
Yesterday I received one from an ebay seller !
Everything was in order,nice package including 2 sealed cr123a's
Well,i put the batteries and worked perfectly !
low mode also worked ...

after some hour i tried again to play with it,and it was alright,i was ready for starting exploring the ui

but at the third try the flashlight never lighted !

the only thing that maybe? was dangerous ,was to try a 18650 battery
for the second time,because the first it did'nt light up the flashlight,so 
i tried for a second time to check,because the 18650 is new,and fully charged ...is possible to burned any circuitry ?

I tried the flashlight with a head from another flashlight(holding it in place with my hands..) and it worked...so i guess the clicky switch is ok ...

any ideas ? 

(the seller kindly responded to me,to replace the batteries with fresh ones ...Of course i'll do that,but..the included batteries were sealed and new,i put them in another flashlight and they worked perfect...)

help me please...I didn't enjoy my new light not even for 5 full minutes !!

(excuse my english) :naughty:


----------



## selfbuilt

leonpower said:


> the only thing that maybe? was dangerous ,was to try a 18650 battery
> for the second time,because the first it did'nt light up the flashlight,so
> i tried for a second time to check,because the 18650 is new,and fully charged ...is possible to burned any circuitry ?


A single 18650 is lower voltage than 2xCR123A, so is generally safer in most lights. And the few lights that I've seen that have blown a fuse (usually on primaries) typically still light up, just with reduced output or lack of regulation. 

You seem to have confirmed that the switch is still working. I would verify the light also doesn't work on 2xCR123A. And then contact the seller again to see if you can arrange a return, since the light is clearly non-functional. If that doesn't work, I suggest trying JetBeam directly for warranty service.


----------



## Hitthespot

I just had the opportunity to read this review. Your usual great job Eric. Your wealth of work is truly appreciated. I ENCOURAGE EVERYONE WHO ENJOYS SELFBUILTS REVIEWS TO CLICK THE DONATION BUTTON AT THE BOTTOM OF HIS POSTS!

I'm finding the Jetbeams harder and harder to resist. I especially like the Stainless Steel at both ends of this light for protection. An appreciated feature for anyone with butter fingers. Most of my lights have dents/scratches at one end or the other.

I know this light is around 10mm longer than both my PD3-Q5 and PD30 and a little bigger in diameter, but I would also assume it throws a bit farther.

Anyway this light is now listed at having a Hybrid reflector, apparently released after the unit you reviewed. I would like to hear from anyone who has the Hybrid reflector this light now ships with and what their impressions are. I am thinking about purchasing this light next week.

Thanks
Bill


----------



## leonpower

@selfbuilt,
thanks for the answer,the light does not work also on 2xcr123a
the seller said yes for returning,the problem of course is the postal costs,since greece to hong-kong maybe are to big for a 65$ light.Any way I check them...

something else,could i replace only the led ?
is there a shop that sell compatible led's or i have to contact jetbeam ?


----------



## bluecrow76

Of the three Jetbeam lights I have had (III M, III Pro, III Pro ST) the M is the only one that I have inductor whine on. It occurs between about 10%-40% and 60%-90% light levels. Is this common or am I just the lucky one?


----------



## DHart

Hitthespot... the stainless rings fore and aft are definitely indicators of the build quality and attention to detail that Jet put into this light.

I have a hybrid reflector in mine. And the warm emitter. The light throws exceptionally well, even a little better than my Malkoff M60. The color of the light is amazingly incandescent looking, colors of objects appear very natural with this emitter. Brown bark dust looks brown. The beam has some sharply apparent cree rings, which don't detract from the capability of the beam, but if you would prefer reduced cree rings and will pay with slightly less throw for that, then get the OP reflector. Either way, great light. I use mine nightly as a soft ceiling bounce candle after my wife drifts off to sleep but I'm surfing the forum on my laptop!  The IBS and tailstand capability make this a really versatile light. And on an 18650 it seems to run forever before a recharge. Also runs on two 16340s, but with the same output. Of course two primaries will work as well, but I never use primaries in this light.


----------



## selfbuilt

leonpower said:


> something else,could i replace only the led ?
> is there a shop that sell compatible led's or i have to contact jetbeam ?


No, the LED is not likely the fault - it will be on the circuit. The whole circuit would have to be replaced, which is more work than an emitter swap. Besides, JetBeam doesn't make the circuit available. RMA is really your only option.



bluecrow76 said:


> Of the three Jetbeam lights I have had (III M, III Pro, III Pro ST) the M is the only one that I have inductor whine on. It occurs between about 10%-40% and 60%-90% light levels. Is this common or am I just the lucky one?


No problem on mine, but of course inductor whine is highly variable. 



DHart said:


> I have a hybrid reflector in mine.


Thanks for the input DHart ... I haven't seen the hybrid reflector myself, so am not able to comment. As a general rule, I like smooth reflectors for max throw - but in JetBeam's case, their OP retains nearly as much throw as their SMO, but does a great job on removing rings.


----------



## EngrPaul

I'll be able to compare pictures and beamshots of smooth, OP, and hybrid in a few days. I'll post this early next week.

As for the aftermarket UCL lens, I've become disappointed in it. While switching between reflectors and bezel rings, the outside of the lens began break off tiny shards around the very edge. This wasn't something visible, but it did worry me about ruggedness of the lens against breaking. But later, with multiple cleanings I went through the A/R coating, which shows up as whitish spots and grows each wipe. Later during another reflector change, I dropped the flashlight 1 inch onto the UCL lens. Now it's broke. :mecry:

I'm back to the stock lens, and I won't be getting another UCL lens. This is opposite what I was saying weeks ago. The stock lens doesn't crack around the edges or get foggy after cleaning.


----------



## bluecrow76

EngrPaul said:


> I'll be able to compare pictures and beamshots of smooth, OP, and hybrid in a few days. I'll post this early next week.



That would be much appreciated! I was about to pull the trigger on an OP reflector but I think I'll wait to see the comparison to the hybrid.


----------



## KD5XB

leonpower said:


> @selfbuilt,
> since Greece to Hong-Kong maybe are to big for a 65$ light.



You got a Jet IIIM for $65? Wow, that sounds like a heckuva price! Mine was $100 or so.



bluecrow76 said:


> Of the three Jetbeam lights I have had (III M, III Pro, III Pro ST) the M is the only one that I have inductor whine on. It occurs between about 10%-40% and 60%-90% light levels. Is this common or am I just the lucky one?



I can't hear anything from mine, but 20+ years on a military flight line may have killed my hearing in that frequency range.



EngrPaul said:


> As for the aftermarket UCL lens, I've become disappointed in it. While switching between reflectors and bezel rings, the outside of the lens began to break off tiny shards around the very edge. This wasn't something visible, but it did worry me about ruggedness of the lens against breaking. But later, with multiple cleanings I went through the A/R coating, which shows up as whitish spots and grows each wipe. Later during another reflector change, I dropped the flashlight 1 inch onto the UCL lens. Now it's broke. :mecry:



Wow! I hadn't heard of this happening before, but I haven't replaced the lens in my Jet III M -- only on my Dorcy 200 lumen thing. It seems to be fine on the Dorcy. The front of the Jetbeam light just seems a little too hard to unscrew, so I'm leaving that one alone.


----------



## Hitthespot

DHart, thanks for your opinions.

EngrPaul, I too will wait with anticipation for your comparisons of the different reflectors. However, I was not aware you could choose? The Bugoutgear site says the M now ships with Hybrid reflector, there is no mention of any other reflector. Of course I could have missed something?

Anyway at least I've stirred some interesting discussion. I glad because I'm seriously considering this light next week.

Thanks

Bill


----------



## EngrPaul

Bill,

I have the early Jet-III-M and both OP & SMO reflectors.

I also have a new Jet-III-M hybrid on the way.

They dropped $12, so I had to do it.


----------



## DHart

BOG is selling the reflectors separately if you want to change the one that is in your light. I think I may try an OP to smooth the rings out a bit. They don't really bug me, but if the throw is nearly the same, sure, I would prefer no rings.

http://store.bugoutgearusa.com/jereas.html

BOG also sells a tool to remove the bezel ring. I use the tool sold by WalMart which is used to remove watch backs... works just fine on bezel rings.

http://store.bugoutgearusa.com/bereto1.html

BTW, the stainless bezel ring on the Jet III M also screws onto Solarforce L2 heads, if you have a Solarforce crenelated bezel ring you want to get gone (I do) and replace with a nice low profile stainless steel rim... and BOG sells them too!

http://store.bugoutgearusa.com/ststreri.html


----------



## Hitthespot

EngrPaul said:


> Bill,
> 
> I have the early Jet-III-M and both OP & SMO reflectors.
> 
> I also have a new Jet-III-M hybrid on the way.
> 
> They dropped $12, so I had to do it.


 
Thats great. If there isn't really that much difference between the Op and SMo (as most have said) and the Hybrid is somewhere inbetween, then I'm sure I'll just go with the Hybrid. I would like to wait for your opinion of the three, so again let us know as soon as you receive.

Thanks

bill


----------



## xcel730

Darn, I literally picked up a Jet-III from BOG a couple of days before they dropped $12.

I purchased the hybrid model with the warm tint option. Although it still have the CREE rings, it's not that bad.


----------



## DHart

For those who want to see what a difference the warm emitter makes, here are some beamshots of my Jet III M with warm emitter & hybrid reflector... compared to other lights... the color rendition with the warm emitter is incredibly incandescent-like.

Jet III M - warm emitter, hybrid reflector






Malkoff M60





Romisen RC-F4 Q5


----------



## Hitthespot

That is a lot warmer than I thought. I thought it was just on the warm side of LED white. It really does look like an incand bulb. I wish I could see that in person.

Thanks DHart

Bill


----------



## FlashlightsNgear.com

From looking at those pictures the Romisen RC-F4 Q5 looks like the brightest of the 3, I still want a JetBeam III-M though, without the warm tint


----------



## DHart

d1live said:


> From looking at those pictures the Romisen RC-F4 Q5 looks like the brightest of the 3, I still want a JetBeam III-M though, without the warm tint



Yeah, for the money, that $22 Romisen RC-F4 is a heck of a great light. I leave it in the glovebox of my car as a backup in case whatever other lights I have with me aren't enough. I do much prefer the versatility of the Jet III M, though... and of course that doesn't come for free.  And I don't want to leave the Jet in the glovebox of my car all the time.


----------



## EngrPaul

As far as I can tell, the hybrid reflector is basically the same as a smooth reflector, just rougher machining. I get the exact same beam as a smooth.

The new light is in the front on the next two pictures. It's silvery instead of chocolately. The Jetbeam logo is also dingy. The tailcap anodizing is crackled. I like my original light better....

Natural Lighting (Pretty accurate)





Flash Lighting (puts a little too much red into the picture hue)


----------



## 154CM

Thanks for the nice review selfbuilt. I purchased this light two days ago really like it. 

The machining on mine is excellent. I cant stress this enough. The feel while manipulating the head and tailcap are top notch. 

And to jetbeam: Id like to see the following changes made to the light. 
Put a quality clip on the light that will allow for deep pocket carry. 
Alot of companys don't do this and I have no idea why. Also beef up the 
thickness of the swich boot.


----------



## FlashlightsNgear.com

All this talk about JetBeams I finally BROKE down and ordered a Jet III-M for myself, delivery set for Friday (same day as the Tiablo A9) Ill be looking forward to heading to the farm were its really dark and trying these out along with the Romisen's I ordered last week. Great reviews, keep up the great work .


----------



## 154CM

I just found out that a salvaged switch boot from a surefire g2 will fit perfect in the military. 
The surefire boot is very robust.


----------



## sardian

Mine will be here Friday also. Looking forward to getting it. I have gone hog wild this week.....

I have gotten a P3D Q5, M20, T25-T, TK11, and now the JetIII-M all in one week. Along with some 18650's, RCR's, and a charger. Now I'm looking for some single cellers


----------



## KD5XB

154CM said:


> Thanks for the nice review selfbuilt. I purchased this light two days ago really like it.



Interesting -- you mean you found a store that stocks them???


----------



## 154CM

KD5XB, I purchased it from bugoutgearusa.


----------



## KD5XB

Oh! The way you said "I purchased this light..." I just figured you must have found it in a store on the rack.


----------



## 154CM

I wish B&M stores sold fenix, jetbeam and others in stores, well maybe as long as they kept up the current quality. Prices would come down some because of the competition.


----------



## XD9

KD5XB said:


> Interesting -- you mean you found a store that stocks them???



If you are in Houston, Texas there is a store in the North of Houston that stocks almost every popular LED light in the market.
Thats where I bought my 2 Ra Clicky's, Jet-III M, Nitecore Extream, and my PD20.  Good people they are willing to work out with you.

I hope I dont get in trouble for this ... Sorry Mods Hopefully I didnt brake a rule.


----------



## HouseofG

Well, this excellent review, and the ability to compare other flashlights via selfbuilt's other excellent reviews, as well as all the praise in this thread, have convinced me to choose the Jet-III M, but bug out doesn't have the Q5/cool version in stock. Another site I found (manventure outpost) also has the Q5 on backorder. Any other good sites that may have the Jet-III M in this particular flavor? Not so crazy about the ebay route since they all seem to have to ship directly from Hong Kong.


----------



## Monocrom

Nearly two years ago, I created a thread that listed a bunch of B&M shops in New York City that sold quality lights. Made the topic due to a bunch of threads popping up in which CPFers mentioned coming into NYC for vacation, and wanting to know where they could go for [email protected]$$ lights.

No rule against mentioning the name of a B&M shop that sells quality lights.

So.... Could you mention the name of the shop. (As well as the address and their number, if you have it. For most folks, still easier to order online. But I'm sure those CPFers in & around Houston would appreciate the info).


----------



## DM51

XD9 said:


> I hope I dont get in trouble for this ... Sorry Mods Hopefully I didnt brake a rule.


You are not in trouble at all, and you didn't break a rule. As Monocrom says, there is no harm at all in mentioning the name of a store or dealer if it crops up in the natural course of a thread.


----------



## XD9

Sweet!

Well the place is call TXTACTICALGEAR.COM but there site is not up and running yet it will be soon or so they told me last I was there 

There retail front is inside a very cool shooting range in North Houston call Shiloh Shooting Range.. Thats how I found out about them... I went shooting and next thing you know I looked out the exit door and they where there with a cool looking display!.. If you don't buy a light you will get a kick out of the display for sure! HAHAHA! But for sure they will work with you! When I bought my lights they gave me free batteries and at some point discounts! (I am not sure if they are still doing the discounts but I know they are still offering free batteries with any light purchase)

Any ways here is there information... 

TXTACTICALGEAR.COM
12703 Shiloh Church Road
Houston, TX 77066
INSIDE SHILOH SHOOTING RANGE
Toll Free: 1-888-258-5097
Local: 713-344-1057

Good luck guys!


----------



## sardian

Got my JetIII-Millitary Friday. I love the light.

But it Died Sunday. I sent it back to BOG yesterday. Sure hope they get me another one quickly.

Great light though, I'm sure I just got a bad one. The led got to flickering and then went out. After I would let it sit it would work again but in a few minutes to a few seconds it would act up again. Just a bag light I'm sure.

Throw is great and I like the standard tint. I myself actually like the clip. Slips over my front pocket easliy with the light up.


----------



## KD5XB

Mine does that occasionally -- but new batteries always fix it.


----------



## OrlandoLights

Just got the JetBeam M in the warm tint today from BOG. I am very happy with it since it has several features I've had a hard time finding together:

1. Warm tint 
2. Can set a second level for longer run time
3. Will run on 18650 with plus of running on two 123-sized batteries.
4. Well-made
5. Clickie

But I have one question about this light. It may be a flaw, or just the way this light's beam is supposed to be with a smooth reflector, maybe someone here can tell me. There are the Cree rings, similar to the beams SelfBuilt posted, but the central hot spot is a little more diffuse around the edge, and the very center has a dimmer, yellowish level of light, clearly seen, even from 20 yards on the side of the house. So the very center beam, which on Selfbuilt's beamshots look like one even spot, on mine has a slight but noticeable donut hole. 

I cleaned everything and made sure the reflector was seated properly. Could it be that the LED isn't at the right height? I tried turning the LED module, using tweezers in the two little holes on the battery side, but it wouldn't budge. If this is normal for this light, I can probably live with it, everything else is so great. Maybe get an OP reflector, or a home-built diffuser of some sort I can take off quickly.


----------



## selfbuilt

OrlandoLights said:


> I cleaned everything and made sure the reflector was seated properly. ... Maybe get an OP reflector, or a home-built diffuser of some sort I can take off quickly.


Sorry to hear you have a donut hole. As you can see from my pics in this review, mine was resolved by re-seating the reflector. It's possible an OP reflector might help even things out for you - for a comparison of what the beams may look like, check out my Jet-III ST review. Although the ST reflectors are smaller than the M, you can at least see the difference between smooth and OP side-by-side.

As for a diffuser, the new Olight M20 diffuser could possibly fit. Both lights have a 1-1/4 inch bezel opening. But I don't have one to test.


----------



## OrlandoLights

selfbuilt said:


> Sorry to hear you have a donut hole. As you can see from my pics in this review, mine was resolved by re-seating the reflector. It's possible an OP reflector might help even things out for you - for a comparison of what the beams may look like, check out my Jet-III ST review. Although the ST reflectors are smaller than the M, you can at least see the difference between smooth and OP side-by-side.
> 
> As for a diffuser, the new Olight M20 diffuser could possibly fit. Both lights have a 1-1/4 inch bezel opening. But I don't have one to test.



Thanks for the suggestions. I left a message with BOG, to see about a fix or an exchange.


----------



## eljefe

Does anyone know if there are filters available for this light? I would like to order one, but need a green filter and didn't see anything listed on Jetbeam's site. Are there any other brands that would fit? Thanks.


----------



## HouseofG

Well - got mine today. Very nice build and seemingly a nice beam (very hard to tell in my office during the day), but it stopped working almost immediately.

Is there something...toxic..about Tenergy RCR123As?? I ask because this flashlight is meant to replace my Surefire 9P which also inexplicitly stopped working. 

Speaking of those batteries - I had also purchased that Olight battery sleeve but they are too thick to fit in it. The good news is that they don't rattle in the flashlight. 

Seriously though, am I screwing something up by using these batteries??
http://www.batteryjunction.com/rc390reliba.html


----------



## Monocrom

If you want the most reliable RCR123 cells, get AW brand. Tenergy cells can sometimes be Hit or Miss.


----------



## HouseofG

Thanks, Monocrom. I'll look into them. These batteries had been dependable to date, with darn good shelf life. 

But so as not to make anyone nervous about the flashlight itself, I'll report that when I got home and put in some other Tenergy RCRs, the flashlight worked fine. Got to use it out back to change out some lights tonight. Great flashlight! 

Definitely nice that these Tenergy's don't need the sleeve to avoid rattling. I guess some others must run a bit thinner.


----------



## JML

Just an FYI: Duracell and Panasonic CR123A batteries fit perfectly in the Olight sleeve.


----------



## 656nm

eljefe said:


> Does anyone know if there are filters available for this light? I would like to order one, but need a green filter and didn't see anything listed on Jetbeam's site. Are there any other brands that would fit? Thanks.



I've had several discussions with JetBeam about producing filters and diffusers. The last time I spoke with them about it, which was about 6 months ago, they stated that they were actively pursuing it.

Send them email directly stating your interest. It can't hurt to let them know that there is a demand.

The Jet-III M is a 33.5mm head diameter, which may work with other brands of filters, depending on tolerances. The PentagonLight F2 Green Filter, for example, claims to fit a 31.75mm bezel size, meaning if it had 1.75mm of extra room, it would fit the Jet-III M. You'd probably want to try fitting one before buying, in this case.

No SureFire filter is close enough in size to fit without you needing to use spacers.

Good luck!


----------



## selfbuilt

656nm said:


> The Jet-III M is a 33.5mm head diameter, which may work with other brands of filters, depending on tolerances.


Olight has recently released a diffuser and red filter for the M20 that may fit (the bezel opening is very similar to the Jet-III M). I have not tested these, so don't know if they would work. Batteryjunction carries the M20 accessories, and other vendors may be as well.


----------



## monkey808

OrlandoLights said:


> Thanks for the suggestions. I left a message with BOG, to see about a fix or an exchange.


Hope this post correctly. first time posting. I have the same problem. I emailed BOG.

Here is what I wrote them:

"I have recently purchased a Jet-III Military/LE. My order number is blackforce-4500. Upon receiving the item I notices that the LED die is set off center and there is pronounced donut hole around the center beam. I have checked the CPF forum and have seen beam shots that do not display this. Is it possible to exchange my item for one that has a centered LED die and no donut hole around the center beam."

Here is their response:

"Lance,

This is due to the smoothness of the reflector. The less orange peel in the reflector the more you will see this. The LED is not off centered, but rather how Cree makes their dies. You can purchase an OP reflector, which will smooth out your beam pattern. Please let us know if you would like one.

Thank you,
BugoutGearUSA.com"

I read on the Olight M20 thread that a few went out with off-centered LEDs, but Battery Junction replaced them with centered LEDs. 

I guess JetBeams get their LEDs from a place with less QC.


----------



## Phantomd aka zach

I have an R2 Bin headed my way... I am not that knowledgeable about lights but the R2 bin is brighter right?

-Zach


----------



## KD5XB

Not trying to be rude of smarta$$, but it seems the JetBeam-3M is bright enough already!

Or are you a hot-rodder?


----------



## Phantomd aka zach

KD5XB said:


> Not trying to be rude of smarta$$, but it seems the JetBeam-3M is bright enough already!
> 
> Or are you a hot-rodder?




not a hot rodder, just a newb who does not know any better =D

-Zach


----------



## sardian

To answer your question (and not be a smarta$$) Yes the R2 should be brighter and for only the $5.00 difference to me it would be what I would buy.

But, in use you most likly wouldn't see the difference. Maybe in a side by side between the Q5 version vs the R2 version you might see the R2 is ever so slightly brighter but in actual use maybe not. 

Someone who already has the Q5 version wouldn't see enough of a difference to justify the price of upgrading.

Enjoy you light, it's a nice one


----------



## Phantomd aka zach

sardian said:


> Someone who already has the Q5 version wouldn't see enough of a difference to justify the price of upgrading.
> 
> Enjoy you light, it's a nice one


Thanks! thats what i figured, i cant wait to get it!

-Zach


----------



## jzelek

Just got this from BOG today.







R2 bin with low profile crenulated bezel.
PS. I order the hybrid reflector but the light was shipped with a OP reflector and note saying that hybrid is discontinued.


----------



## sardian

jzelek said:


> Just got this from BOG today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R2 bin with low profile crenulated bezel.
> PS. I order the hybrid reflector but the light was shipped with a OP reflector and note saying that hybrid is discontinued.


 
Wow, I like that bezel. It looks much better than the huge klingon one ;-) Does that bezel show up in the beam?

I have hopes mine will be here tomorrow.


----------



## jzelek

Its not dark out here yet but a ceiling test showed a perfect circle. :thumbsup:

Also the light came with red O-rings (even the spares) that alot of people perfer over the black ones.


----------



## Phantomd aka zach

is the anodizing cracked around the head? otherwise I cant wait to get mine... I wont be home till friday!

-Zach


----------



## jzelek

Phantomd aka zach said:


> is the anodizing cracked around the head? otherwise I cant wait to get mine... I wont be home till friday!
> 
> -Zach


 
The anodizing on my Jetbeam military is about as good as you can get on a light.
I used a flash when taking the photo, maybe thats what you think your seeing.


----------



## EngrPaul

Phantomd aka zach said:


> is the anodizing cracked around the head? otherwise I cant wait to get mine... I wont be home till friday!
> 
> -Zach


 
I've had several. All have had crackly anodizing in close-up photography.


----------



## sardian

Yep, the one I had before had spider lines in it when looked at under bright light (or a flash) but most of the time they are not visable.


----------



## DHart

The new crenelated lens retaining ring looks cool! And nicely low profile.


----------



## Phantomd aka zach

Just got mine!

Very impressed!

My only prior experience with LED flashlights was with the LED mag lights and this thing is WAY brighter (as I expected) the beam is VERY clean with very usable spill and a very nice hotspot... my finish is near PERFECT...

I have already taken it completely apart and cleaned and lubed it... MUCH smoother.

I will wait to get the low profile crenelated bezel till the remote switch comes out... but this light is awesome!

-Somewhere it was said that it comes with two types of switches, mine only came with a spare boot and more red o-rings... the lens o-ring is clear on mine though... which is fine with me!

-Zach


----------



## sygyzy

My new Jet-III M whines at any level < 100%. Is this common or did I get a dud? I want to exchange it if this is a rare occurance.


----------



## sardian

sygyzy said:


> My new Jet-III M whines at any level < 100%. Is this common or did I get a dud? I want to exchange it if this is a rare occurance.


 
Mine (R2) wines at every level but high. This one replaces a bad Q5 I had. I'm not thrilled.


----------



## sygyzy

I am a pretty easy going person but I cannot operate a light with this annoying whine. I hope BugOut gets back to me soon.


----------



## DHart

Hmmmm... there isn't even a hint of whine on my Q5 Jet III M. Is this something new with the change to R2 emitters?


----------



## DHart

What the Jet III M lacks that I have come to value very highly after using my LF3XT is an easy and quick way to ramp up or down for the moment, then quickly return to my "regularly scheduled program." Just can't do that with the Jet III M. It's way too inconvenient to access the ramp feature. Much as I love my Jet III M, my LF3XT gets considerably more use from me.


----------



## bluecrow76

Considering that the Jetbeam design is a simple inline switch and not a separate signal path, I don't see much other options for their UI. I too poo-pooed the UI when I first got it because I am used to the Novatac UI and wanted the Jetbeam to somehow magically be everything the Novatac was, just brighter and with more throw. Once I started thinking about the physical mechanisms involved in the light I changed my opinion.

Unless they redesign their lights to have a separate signalling path (like Novatac, Liteflux, Nitecore and I'm sure others), there is not much else they can do with the UI that they haven't already. With their current design, every time you press the switch you are disconnecting the battery from the driver. When you press the switch on a Novatac or a Liteflux, you are just sending a signal to a driver that still has power, which is why it can ramp.

Now I am one of the lucky ones that has a whiney III-M, so I do have other beefs with this light, but the UI, IMHO, is about the best you can get for the way they designed the light. That being said, why no one has made a large light like the III-M with the UI style of the Novatac/Liteflux/Nitecore is beyond me... I'd jump on that train real fast!

EDIT: What would be a nice change in the UI design is to have an additional ramping menu that goes from high to low. This could be positioned between the initial low to high ramp selection mode and the signal selection mode. This would provide quicker access to high.


----------



## DHart

bluecrow76 said:


> why no one has made a large light like the III-M with the UI style of the Novatac/Liteflux/Nitecore is beyond me... I'd jump on that train real fast!



Oh man, a Jet III M with the LF3XT UI or an 18670 version of the LF3XT would be a dream light. :twothumbs


----------



## KD5XB

I've never noticed mine whining, but I suspect that 20 years around KC-130's, A-6's, A-4's, F-4's, F-16's, and F-111's may have killed my hearing in that range...


----------



## Golfer2000

A few things Ive noticed with mine is that with the 18650 cell at least, if you barely bump it on the tailcap the light cuts off for a moment and when the battery starts to die it becomes very finicky (randomly putting itself in strobe mode). Also I wish it would save your setting as Ive found myself strobed late at night when trying to switch to dim setting. Ive considered sending it back but I cant be without my duty flashlight for several days. Maybe Ill look into picking up something else then sending it back.


----------



## DHart

Golfer2000 said:


> Ive considered sending it back but I cant be without my duty flashlight for several days. Maybe Ill look into picking up something else then sending it back.



If you depend on a flashlight for work, esp for your safety or life, it seems to me that having at least one, but more probably at least two back up options would be a really good thing... especially since you can get such good lights for relatively little money. Consider the Solarforce L2 lights for $25 including, cell and carrying case... a great bargain for a fine quality light.


----------



## Phantomd aka zach

mine whines at anything but full bright as well... also my the threads on the head are not what I would call smooth, I have cleaned and re-lubed repeatedly yet they feel rough and cheap... it's my major annoyance with this light...

I dont really mind its wine that much... I would prefer it not though...

I would also appreciate a faster ramp time... maybe twice as fast?

-Zach


----------



## Golfer2000

DHart said:


> If you depend on a flashlight for work, esp for your safety or life, it seems to me that having at least one, but more probably at least two back up options would be a really good thing... especially since you can get such good lights for relatively little money. Consider the Solarforce L2 lights for $25 including, cell and carrying case... a great bargain for a fine quality light.



lol yea I have 2 backup lights in my patrol bag, they just wont fit my holster. Thanks for the suggestion Ill check that out. Has anyone else had problems like these though?


----------



## STi

I wonder if this whine has anything to do with the R2'S..My Jetbeam jet 2 pro has Q5 and is dead silent while my c2h has an R2 and has a loud whine on anything but turbo and low.


----------



## sygyzy

Guys, I found a battery that does NOT whine - AW Protected 18650. Anything else whines including R123, IMR 123, and primary 123.


----------



## DHart

sygyzy said:


> Guys, I found a battery that does NOT whine - AW Protected 18650. Anything else whines including R123, IMR 123, and primary 123.



Interesting... mine, with warm colored Q3 emitter, has never whined, but I've always run an AW protected 18650 in it.... :thinking:


----------



## StandardBattery

DHart said:


> Interesting... mine, with warm colored Q5 emitter, has never whined, but I've always run an AW protected 18650 in it.... :thinking:


Same here, my setup as well; except the warm emitter of course is not a Q5 likely a Q3-5A.


----------



## DHart

StandardBattery said:


> Same here, my setup as well; except the warm emitter of course is not a Q5 likely a Q3-5A.



Ooops... you're right... not a Q5.


----------



## TRK

I have an R2 and have used both CR123s and a AW protected 18650 and thankfully have had zero whine from either battery type.


----------



## JML

I just got my second Military.

Some differences: 

(1) The anodizing on all parts matches (the head on the first run was darker than the body/tail), and it's a shade lighter.

(2) The switch spring is larger and longer, and the plastic surround for the switch is a different color. (The new switch was not swappable with the original switch, as the light wouldn't work.)

(3) The battery tab on the LED driver pill is shorter than on the first one I got (significantly so), and so I had to really sand down the cap on an Olight battery tube to get things to make contact (or leave the cap off).

(4) The machined facets on the head now match up perfectly with those on the body.


----------



## EngrPaul

JML said:


> I just got my second Military.
> 
> Some differences...


 
I have the same version, I believe. I have a question for you. Does your head operate more stiffly than the first?

The head is awfully hard to turn. The o-ring on the light is huge, and the spare is a whole bunch smaller. I tried the spare, and the head was too loose and wobbly. I cannot find an o-ring that results in good operation and sealing.


----------



## Wolf 359

First post on this forum. I have been a closet flashaholic for years without ever actually getting a _real_ flashlight. To make a long story short, I decided it was time and my research lead here. I got a Jet-II M a couple of weeks ago--warm/neutral tint with "improved" OP reflector (that's what the receipt from BOG said--I had requested OP). 

While perhaps my single novice datapoint has limited weight, I must say that I am very impressed with this light. It is head and shoulders above anything I have owned in the past. A very bright spot with a spill that can still light up a room (or provide plenty of peripheral illumination outside). The white is a very pleasing tint.

The build quality is top notch and just looking at the light says quality--from the heft of it, to the stainless steel bezel ring looking into the deep shiny OP reflector, and to the violet refection off of the AR lens coating when held at an angle. The twisting seems smooth to me.

I have read most of the posts in this thread, and I will say that the CR123 batteries in my light do not rattle at all. I noticed a recent post above saying that the spring is now longer so perhaps the tension is now enough.

Final comment--Thank you very much SelfBuilt for the *excellent* review that my Google search caught, and to the others here whose illuminating :devil: posts tipped me in favor of this light.


----------



## DM51

Welcome to CPF, Wolf_359.

Good choice of light, and good first post!


----------



## JML

EngrPaul said:


> I have the same version, I believe. I have a question for you. Does your head operate more stiffly than the first?
> 
> The head is awfully hard to turn. The o-ring on the light is huge, and the spare is a whole bunch smaller. I tried the spare, and the head was too loose and wobbly. I cannot find an o-ring that results in good operation and sealing.


 
Same here. Operation isn't as smooth. The first light has clear O-rings, while this new one has the red ones. They're definitely sized differently. The large red O-ring is smaller and thicker than the large clear O-ring, and same for the smaller of the supplied pair. I used Nye 7760 lube and it made it easier to operate, but it is still tight.

I have NOT tried swapping the O-rings.


----------



## bluecrow76

Updated my thoughts on the UI in post #222.


----------



## JML

I tried the thinner clear O-rings. My Military did NOT like the change! The head was much easier to turn, and would tighten a bit more than "usual," but the light started to act like it was brain-damaged. First, the main output level would become a strobe, at one of two level styles, or it would go on and then get dim and just shut off. The secondary output level was reset at the default and couldn't be reset easily. Batteries are at 100% and this happened with and without the battery holder from Olight being used. 

I changed the O-rings back to the red ones, and all was restored. I was getting ready to send it back to Flavio for a look...

Anyone have a clue what was going on here?


----------



## StandardBattery

See my Post 88, I think it might a a similar issue I noticed with threads that allow for some latteral play. A little pressure and you can break electrical contact. Tolerences might not be a optimal, and the smaller o-ring might allow for more lateral movement. Maybe not. Mine is not bad with the original O rings, but I'm careful to only twist it the absolute minimum required to switch modes.


----------



## JML

Now it's turning itself off after a few minutes on high. And sometimes refusing to turn on. Went into strobe again on the main setting, once. All with the supplied red O-rings, new batteries testing 100% of capacity, and no movement of the head. Looks like Flavio is going to get this one back for an examination! [sigh]


----------



## s.c.

Anyone have problems with the switch? Mine is pretty hard to engage. Momentary on works, but I need to press a little further than I'd like. To get it to "click on," it takes a more pressure than any of my other lights. My TK10, for example, has a much softer and easier switch. Trust me, I'm no wimp, but my thumb is killing me for turning this light on and off!


----------



## s.c.

jzelek said:


> PS. I order the hybrid reflector but the light was shipped with a OP reflector and note saying that hybrid is discontinued.



So they're all OP now? BOG needs to get their reflectors straight...I get different information from this site, the BOG site, and emails from BOG.



livingaboard said:


> If I have to gripe about this light at all, it would be the following.
> 
> The attachment method for the spring in the tail cap is cheesy. It should be a tubular rivet, not a little piece of metal with a solder blob.
> 
> The tailcap has to be fairly tight in order to make good electrical conduct, otherwise the light goes on and off intermittently.



Is this common with other users too? I just received my light a couple hours ago and there have already been times when I thought it was dead, not realizing this was the issue. 



DHart said:


> BTW, the stainless bezel ring on the Jet III M also screws onto Solarforce L2 heads, if you have a Solarforce crenelated bezel ring you want to get gone (I do) and replace with a nice low profile stainless steel rim... and BOG sells them too!
> 
> http://store.bugoutgearusa.com/ststreri.html



So, will the L2 accessories fit on to the Jet-III M? The crenelated bezel from solarforce is much cheaper than the official jetbeam bezel.


----------



## tancg87

Helo To All..

Was considering to get this light until i read that o-rings will cause some problems.. Not sure if its worthy investment.. I'm looking to use it on my bike and all rounder..


----------



## KD5XB

The o rings haven't caused me any problems and I suspect they only cause problems if someone is too critical -- go ahead and get the light, it's a very nice one.


----------



## Glock27

Great light! 
My only beef is the flat retaining ring on the bezel. I had to order the low profile crenelated bezel ring. The light looks so much better when the head matches the tail.
It would be a great service to offer the "Option" to order with the low profile crenelated bezel ring dealer installed(+$10). Otherwise you have to order the $25 ring + $8 removal tool.....and the tool doesn't come close to matching the little tightening notches in the low profile ring.
G27


----------



## bluecrow76

I was able to use a strap wrench (a cheap one from Harbor Freight at that) to get the original flat retaining ring bezel off when I changed my reflector from SMO to OP, so I'm of the opinion that the removal tool is not a necessity.


----------



## TRK

Someone earlier in this thread or maybe it was in a different thread related to the Jet III-M suggested using the rubber backing on your mouse pad to remove the bezel. It worked like a charm for me - no special tool needed. I also bought the low profile crenulated bezel.

Thus far I've had zero problems with my Jet III-M other than breaking the pocket clip when I removed it from the light. However, when I contacted Jetbeam to buy a replacement, they gladly sent me a new one and a set of new red o-rings for free!! Great customer service!


----------



## Glock27

Wow.....It was a blunder that the low profile crenelated bezel isn't standard. The light is sexy with and homely without it IMHO.

It is like a beautiful woman in a bikini without hair compared to a beautiful woman in a bikini with great looking hair 
G27


----------



## s.c.

Glock27 said:


> Wow.....It was a blunder that the low profile crenelated bezel isn't standard. The light is sexy with and homely without it IMHO.
> 
> It is like a beautiful woman in a bikini without hair compared to a beautiful woman in a bikini with great looking hair
> G27



having most people pay an additional $25 is surely not a blunder.


----------



## Glock27

I hadn't thought of that angle s.c. But with a very limited marketing test...

Test A: (with standard flat bezel) "Cool light.....kind of heavy though..."

Test B: (with low profile crenelated bezel) "Where can I order, and what tints are available"

Conclusion: They could sell even more if the bezel that "was meant to be" was standard.....and that Jet-III M's are way under priced 
G27


----------



## selfbuilt

Good tip on the low-profile crenelated bezel from the L2. I've often felt that's the one thing missing to make the Jet-III M complete. :thumbsup:

And I've also found the underside of a mouse pad works great to unscrew JetBeam bezel rings.


----------



## selfbuilt

FYI, I've just tested the diffuser and filter attachments for the Olight M20, and they do fit well on the Jet-III M. See my write-up of them here.







It's not a perfect fit on the Jet-III M, as the fluted areas at the base of the M's bezel do allow a little light to sneak out. But they do hold on nicely and work well. In fact, the Jet-III M is about the only light I have that these do fit well on (aside from the M20, of course).

The diffuser is particularly good, and highly recommended.


----------



## ftumch33

Just got mine today and totally hated the clip. Love the light-hate the clip. So...busted out a Surefire L5 I haven`t used in a long time and...the Surefire clip fits! Only problem is the Surefire clip is pretty bendy, no backbone at all. 
Can someone here make some Ti or steel clips just like the Surefire ones but much stiffer? (ha, ha, get it? Stiffer!) 
Please, please, please?


----------



## bluecrow76

Yeah, I swapped clips with a Jet III-PRO... much mo' better!

EDIT: Bugout had a plentiful supply of the III-M clips... unfortunately they had no PRO clips. I know they'd sell a lot more if it were the other way around.


----------



## Monocrom

bluecrow76 said:


> Yeah, I swapped clips with a Jet III-PRO... much mo' better!


 
I'm thinking of getting the Pro, just so I can swap out the clip as well. Love the Military, hate its clip.


----------



## rantanplan

s.c. said:


> [...]
> So, will the L2 accessories fit on to the Jet-III M? The crenelated bezel from solarforce is much cheaper than the official jetbeam bezel.



:mecry:

I bought a Solarforce L2 head with a stainless steel bezel ring ... and the solar force bezel ring does not fit my JetIII M. The diameter of the thread is maybe a millimeter to big, so you can´t screw it into the JetIII M head ... no chance.

Grinding the threads a bit down didn´t help, I think you´ll have to cut new threads . Outer diameter of the bezel ring is a bit less than the one of the original jetbeam bezel ring, but that shouldn´t be noticeable to much.

Guess I´ll leave the head of my JetIII M toothless... proper "dental work" is much too expensive: $25 for a bezel ring from Jetbeam is a joke. Thats a third of the price of the whole light ... just for a small piece of stainless steel, which companies like solarforce can sell for half a dozen bucks or less. :thumbsdow


----------



## JML

My defective Military was replaced by Flavio, and I got the R2 instead of the warm tint version (another one of which I already have on hand). Cosmetically just about perfect (the head is ever so slightly darker than the body, but you have to be a stickler to see that; however, the head's machined protrusions and recesses align absolutely perfectly with the similar features on the body). Electrically perfect. The contact button on the driver seems to stick out a bit further than on the one I sent back, so perhaps that was part of the problem with the settings issue on the first one. 

The light's head was difficult to turn as supplied, but there was almost no lube on the threads and red O-rings. First I tried Nyogel, and it was still tight and difficult to turn, but a change of lube to the thinner-viscosity Teflon-based Super Lube grease made it much easier to turn (as smooth as my ST-BV is with the Nye lube).

Slightly greenish in hue compared to my other R2 lights, but a very even and bright beam.


----------



## faucon

selfbuilt said:


> Good tip on the low-profile crenelated bezel from the L2. I've often felt that's the one thing missing to make the Jet-III M complete. :thumbsup:
> 
> And I've also found the underside of a mouse pad works great to unscrew JetBeam bezel rings.


Thanks for the tip, selfbuilt, about the mouse pad. I have an OP reflector coming, and I was thinking I should also have ordered the bezel removal tool. I used the underside of my mouse pad tonight, and---first try---off the bezel came!


----------



## AbnInfantry

Yesterday, I received the Jet-III M R2 I'd ordered from BugOutGear. I deliberated a long time trying to decide between the Jet-III M and an Olight M20 or M30. Reports from reliable sources about noticeable pwm flickering with the M30 removed it from consideration. I finally decided on the Jet-III M over the M20 due to the ability to select from a much wider range of brightness/mode settings and user reports which appeared to give the Jetbeam an edge in quality of construction.

Overall, I'm very pleased with my Jet-III M R2. The anodizing on the head is noticeably darker than on the rest of the flashlight's body. I wish the color was uniform but it's not a big deal to me. The general workmanship appears to be excellent. After inserting a couple Surefire 123 batteries, I anticipated hearing the rattle other users reported. No rattle at all with the tail cap screwed in place. Even better, there is absolutely no whining noise on any setting with my Jetbeam as some other members reported hearing from their lights. With both set to maximum, the flood from my Fenix TK10 is very slightly larger but the Jet-III M R2's hotspot is noticeably brighter. Despite being slightly longer, the Jet-III M fits fine in the TK10's holster.

I only have two negative comments about the Jetbeam. First, I can't see paying $25, around one-third the price of the entire light, for the crenelated bezel which should come as a standard feature. Second, I find trying to access the user-defined modes (what Jetbeam calls the "Hidden Menu") to be a real PITA. I hope that with more practice, I'll get the hang of it; it qualifies as a "chore" so far.

I'd like to thank selfbuilt for his outstanding reviews of the Jet-III M and other lights.


----------



## StandardBattery

selfbuilt said:


> FYI, I've just tested the diffuser and filter attachments for the Olight M20, and they do fit well on the Jet-III M. See my write-up of them here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a perfect fit on the Jet-III M, as the fluted areas at the base of the M's bezel do allow a little light to sneak out. But they do hold on nicely and work well. In fact, the Jet-III M is about the only light I have that these do fit well on (aside from the M20, of course).
> 
> The diffuser is particularly good, and highly recommended.


 
Thanks for mentioning the OLight Diffuser. I just added on to my bag, makes the III-M a little more versatile if I don't happen to have a smaller EDC light with me.

The Olight diffuser is actually a better fit on the TK-11, I'd say it fits the TK11 perfectly, like a glove.


----------



## dirtech

AbnInfantry said:


> Yesterday, I received the Jet-III M R2 I'd ordered from BugOutGear. I deliberated a long time trying to decide between the Jet-III M and an Olight M20 or M30. Reports from reliable sources about noticeable pwm flickering with the M30 removed it from consideration. I finally decided on the Jet-III M over the M20 due to the ability to select from a much wider range of brightness/mode settings and user reports which appeared to give the Jetbeam an edge in quality of construction.
> 
> Overall, I'm very pleased with my Jet-III M R2. The anodizing on the head is noticeably darker than on the rest of the flashlight's body. I wish the color was uniform but it's not a big deal to me. The general workmanship appears to be excellent. After inserting a couple Surefire 123 batteries, I anticipated hearing the rattle other users reported. No rattle at all with the tail cap screwed in place. Even better, there is absolutely no whining noise on any setting with my Jetbeam as some other members reported hearing from their lights. With both set to maximum, the flood from my Fenix TK10 is very slightly larger but the Jet-III M R2's hotspot is noticeably brighter. Despite being slightly longer, the Jet-III M fits fine in the TK10's holster.
> 
> I only have two negative comments about the Jetbeam. First, I can't see paying $25, around one-third the price of the entire light, for the crenelated bezel which should come as a standard feature. Second, I find trying to access the user-defined modes (what Jetbeam calls the "Hidden Menu") to be a real PITA. I hope that with more practice, I'll get the hang of it; it qualifies as a "chore" so far.
> 
> I'd like to thank selfbuilt for his outstanding reviews of the Jet-III M and other lights.



Just give it a little practice. It'll be second nature before to long getting in and out of the hidden menu.

My only criticism of this light is how the various modes in the hidden menu are reached. I would much prefer a half press to cycle through the modes than just waiting for the cycle to reach the mode I'm after.


----------



## [email protected] dog

How well do these filters fit over the Low Profile Crenulated Bezel?


selfbuilt said:


> FYI, I've just tested the diffuser and filter attachments for the Olight M20, and they do fit well on the Jet-III M. See my write-up of them here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a perfect fit on the Jet-III M, as the fluted areas at the base of the M's bezel do allow a little light to sneak out. But they do hold on nicely and work well. In fact, the Jet-III M is about the only light I have that these do fit well on (aside from the M20, of course).
> 
> The diffuser is particularly good, and highly recommended.


----------



## selfbuilt

[email protected] dog said:


> How well do these filters fit over the Low Profile Crenulated Bezel?


They should fit fine. At most, you might get some slight narrowing of spillbeam width (as the filter sits slightly further forward). But the soft rubber is good to block almost any other light from getting through.

I've used these M-series Olight filters on a number of 2xCR123A lights, and they are remarkably versatile. Same goes for the T-series filters - they fit most AA/2AA lights and slim profile 1xCR123A quite well. :thumbsup:


----------



## [email protected] dog

Thank you very much Selfbuilt.


----------



## [email protected] dog

I'm wondering how well this flashlight will function in arctic conditions: -25 degrees Celsius, variable winds, ocean spray. Essentially kept outside for several months however fully charged batteries would be no problem.

How well will the electronic circuitry hold up to this? :thinking:


----------



## KiwiMark

[email protected] dog said:


> I'm wondering how well this flashlight will function in arctic conditions: -25 degrees Celsius, variable winds, ocean spray. Essentially kept outside for several months however fully charged batteries would be no problem.
> 
> How well will the electronic circuitry hold up to this? :thinking:



Ocean spray would not be an issue.

The cold could affect the batteries, but anything the batteries can handle the electronics can handle. The Jet-III M is a really well made light, grease the threads with something that can handle the cold and I doubt you will have any problems.


----------



## palomino77

Good Review. :thanks:

Has anybody seen the: JETBeam JET-III M R2 Flashlight CREE R2 Army Green ? If so give me your opinions on it,, It looks vary nice. 250 lumens
http://www.lightjunction.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30_31&products_id=142

Thanks


----------



## Hitthespot

Well after receiving my Jet-1 Pro Version 3 this week I just can't take it. I ordered a Jet III M (R2) in Green today. I'm really excited about this light and can't wait to receive it.

Bill


----------



## niteize

so nice pic, and nice beamshots, thanks


----------



## KiwiMark

Hitthespot said:


> Well after receiving my Jet-1 Pro Version 3 this week I just can't take it. I ordered a Jet III M (R2) in Green today. I'm really excited about this light and can't wait to receive it.
> 
> Bill



Nice! I have a Jet-I Pro V2 in my pocket right now (It is one of my EDC lights) and it is great for and EDC. I have my tailcap slightly unscrewed to prevent accidental activation while in my pocket. I us an AW Protected 14500 to power it - plenty of light on max!

I also have a Jet-IIIM which I take camping - I like its VERY low minimum output that doesn't hurt my night adapted eyes if I have to make a call of nature in the middle of the night. A quick tighten of the head and I have a very good powerful light with lots of throw.

These lights aren't just high quality good looking lights, they are also functional and really useful. Enjoy your Jet-IIIM when it arrives. Hmmm, green - you better take some pics and post them here.


----------



## Dobbler

Got a photo of one of these on a Jet-III M?



selfbuilt said:


> FYI, I've just tested the diffuser and filter attachments for the Olight M20, and they do fit well on the Jet-III M. See my write-up of them here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not a perfect fit on the Jet-III M, as the fluted areas at the base of the M's bezel do allow a little light to sneak out. But they do hold on nicely and work well. In fact, the Jet-III M is about the only light I have that these do fit well on (aside from the M20, of course).
> 
> The diffuser is particularly good, and highly recommended.


----------



## Dynabel

Are runtimes tested with the AW 18650 2200mAh or the 2600mAh cell?


----------



## Hitthespot

Dynabel said:


> Are runtimes tested with the AW 18650 2200mAh or the 2600mAh cell?


 
I believe the AW 2600mah cells do not have the button top, which the Jet III M cannot use. So they were probably 2200mah cells. Since there are ways around this, Selfbuilt will have to confirm.


Bill


----------



## GLOCK18

I use the AW 2600mah cells in my Jet-III M works perfect, dont know about run time.


----------



## KiwiMark

GLOCK18 said:


> I use the AW 2600mah cells in my Jet-III M works perfect, dont know about run time.




The 2600mAh cells don't work in my Jet-IIIM . . . unless I put a small magnet on the +ve terminal - then they work fine.


----------



## selfbuilt

Many lights can have difficulty with the newer 2600mAh cells, due to the flat-top battery design (i.e. any light without a spring on the positive terminal in the head is iffy). My Jet-III M seems to work ok with the few of the older flat-top cells that I own (but I don't have any of the new AW 2600mAh cells to test).

As you can imagine, all my runtimes are thus with 2200mAh AW cells.  At the time this review was performed, that's all there was (i.e. this review is almost a full year old now - time flies!)


----------



## Hitthespot

KiwiMark said:


> The 2600mAh cells don't work in my Jet-IIIM . . . unless I put a small magnet on the +ve terminal - then they work fine.


 

A better route is to place a small drop of solder in the center of the positive terminal. Magnets can move and possibly short out.
Of course one should be careful of too much heat when soldering the battery.

Bill


----------



## selfbuilt

Hitthespot said:


> A better route is to place a small drop of solder in the center of the positive terminal. Magnets can move and possibly short out.
> Of course one should be careful of too much heat when soldering the battery.


Thanks for reminding me Bill ... yes, use of magnets is NOT recommended. With a strong whack to the side of the light, a magnet could shift and short the positive pole with the negative body tube (a REALLY bad idea for Li-ion cells).

A bad of solder is better idea, but I would recommend doing so to the positive contact plate in the head of the light and not on the actual battery. Personally, I don't trust the application of soldering iron to a Li-ion.

Be safe everyone ...


----------



## texbaz

The JetBeam lights look great can anyone comment on how they are manufactured, are they machined or MIM. I really have problems with MIM processes taking over traditional machining it's just not the same. The Jetbeam III M looks great.


----------



## berry580

selfbuilt said:


> Thanks for reminding me Bill ... yes, use of magnets is NOT recommended. With a strong whack to the side of the light, a magnet could shift and short the positive pole with the negative body tube (a REALLY bad idea for Li-ion cells).
> 
> A bad of solder is better idea, but I would recommend doing so to the positive contact plate in the head of the light and not on the actual battery. Personally, I don't trust the application of soldering iron to a Li-ion.
> 
> Be safe everyone ...


What's wrong with soldering to the cell?
I'd imagine screwing up the light is much worse than screwing up a cell.


----------



## Burgess

Well, too much heat applied to the flashlight doesn't cause *it* to go 



_


----------



## KiwiMark

Hitthespot said:


> A better route is to place a small drop of solder in the center of the positive terminal. Magnets can move and possibly short out.



I am not sure that the risk is overly great with the AW cells, the heatshrink comes around the cell almost up to the positive button. I don't think the magnet moving is likely to cause a short, though a blob of solder would be safer as long as you didn't overheat the cell.


----------



## Hitthespot

KiwiMark said:


> I am not sure that the risk is overly great with the AW cells, the heatshrink comes around the cell almost up to the positive button. I don't think the magnet moving is likely to cause a short, though a blob of solder would be safer as long as you didn't overheat the cell.


 
I believe the fear is the magnet will be in contact with the positive terminal and possibly the side of the light(negative) if it moves. This is what Selfbuilt meant by negative body tube, not the battery negative tube. 

IIRC there was a case or two of this happening, and even if I'm wrong I just would not take the chance with Li-ion and an expensive light. I have a good memory but it's short. lol

Bill


----------



## selfbuilt

Burgess said:


> Well, too much heat applied to the flashlight doesn't cause *it* to go


Quite true ... but I would rather potentially ruin a flashlight head than have my hands blown off.  Again, I can't estimate what the relative risks would be either way, but I would rather err on the side of potentially causing flashlight damage than Li-ion damage.



Hitthespot said:


> I believe the fear is the magnet will be in contact with the positive terminal and possibly the side of the light(negative) if it moves. This is what Selfbuilt meant by negative body tube, not the battery negative tube.


Yes, that's exactly what I meant - shorting to the side of the battery tube, which is connected to negative battery terminal (i.e. shorts the battery positive and negative terminals). There have been reports here of this happening (although fortunately, usually only in a transient way).


----------



## KiwiMark

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, that's exactly what I meant - shorting to the side of the battery tube, which is connected to negative battery terminal (i.e. shorts the battery positive and negative terminals). There have been reports here of this happening (although fortunately, usually only in a transient way).




Hmm, good point - maybe I shouldn't take the chance. It isn't a good idea to put the protection circuit to the test if you don't have to. I might just stick to using my 2200mAh cells with my Jet-IIIM and use the 2600 cells with my other 3 lights that use the 18650 cells.


----------



## [email protected] dog

Bug Out Gear my money order for the JB-JIII-M is in mail as of yesterday.
You fellas are a bunch of enablers...
Thanks for a great review (and lightening my wallet).


----------



## pobox1475

> I believe the AW 2600mah cells do not have the button top, which the Jet III M cannot use.





> I use the AW 2600mah cells in my Jet-III M works perfect



_Do the 2600's work reliably and safely or not without modifying them?_


----------



## KiwiMark

pobox1475 said:


> _Do the 2600's work reliably and safely or not without modifying them?_



On mine - without mod, no. It does work with a small magnet attached, but as has been pointed out that magnet could move and dead short the 2600.


----------



## bigslick

Oh how many times iv'e read through this thread...

As soon as I have 85$ to spare, this is what i'm getting


----------



## [email protected] dog

This flashlight is awesome! :twothumbs


----------



## guiri

JML said:


> I wish there was a thin plastic sleeve to minimize the slight rattling of the CR123A batteries.



Will the 18650 rattle too? I mean, according to the site, longer runtime anyway..

George


----------



## selfbuilt

guiri said:


> Will the 18650 rattle too? I mean, according to the site, longer runtime anyway..


There will be a slight rattle, even with most protected 18650, as the body tube is bored wide enough to accept all possible thicknesses. If it bothers you, a simple low-tech solution is to wrap a layer or two of electrical tape around the cell.

As for the more pronounced rattle on CR123A, the plastic cell holders from Olight or EagleTac should work fine here. They are available from a number of retailers.

:wave:

P.S.: I'm still amazed at how much activity this thread receives. Goes to show what a popular and enduring design the Jet-III M has. FYI, I just used mine again on Hallowe'en with an Olight red filter (gave a nice orange glow).


----------



## pobox1475

> a simple low-tech solution is to wrap a layer or two of electrical tape around the cell.


 Would that not create a possible issue when the tapes glue melts and migrates from under tape?


----------



## selfbuilt

pobox1475 said:


> Would that not create a possible issue when the tapes glue melts and migrates from under tape?


That's why it is low-tech.  Given the width of most protected cells, you wouldn't need more than a single pass or two, so that's relatively little adhesive (unlike CR123A, which would require so much tape as to potentially cause problems).

Of course, any non-conducting material would do. I believe some people like to wrap a small rectangle of paper around their cells when swapping them. :shrug: Personally, I've never bothered as I don't find the minor rattle on 18650 noticeable.


----------



## [email protected] dog

Just order a diffuser and green filter for it. 
I think with the diffuser filter I'll use red plastic candy wrapper for up close red light for covert night time reading. :nana:


----------



## guiri

Thanks but this is interesting as it still rattles as you say even with the thickest batteries. Are the batteries so inconsistent in thickness that they can't be bored for the largest so that, THAT battery will fit snugly?


----------



## naked2

In a word- yes!


----------



## guiri

See? All it takes is one word sometimes 

..and sometimes, NO words are needed, hehehe

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9KPR_YpuN0

Thanks


----------



## [email protected] dog

When using the Olight M20 lens filters I've found using Plumber's Putty Roll (from Ace Hardware) provides a snug fit so as not to lose the filter. I take about a three inch strip off the roll then cut it length wise, wrap the first strip on about 1/4" back from bezel stretching the material (don't worry this stuff _stretches_) all the way around; overlay the second strip over the first strip and cover the outside of the bezel the same way. This doesn't harm the anodizing whatsoever and can be removed at any time.


----------



## dubliftment

Hi folks,

I just recieved my second Jet-III M Q3 after I had sold the first (this time in green). Of course the driver has not altered - it is still the BVC with the ultra-low low (3mA on the tailcap - what a runtime on this!) Only the timing is different: my last light switched to the flashing menu even when switching it on 8 or 10 seconds after setting the brightness in the second mode. This light I've got now memorizes after 3 seconds and that's it.

some changes to previous editions:

First: the reflector is somehow different to the "normal" SMO version. It is probably the "hybrid" SMOP (although there is no OP stucture visible) and has kind of a transition in the lower part, near the pill - just like the Nitecore SR3.





 At first the beam was quite a mess, awkwardly ringy and a considerable doughnut hole in the center, but after placing a 0,3mm spacer under the reflector the beam is awesome.





With that adaptation made, I'm glad I didn't choose the OP.

Second, the threads have changed. They are not the usual square threads any more and they are not running as smoothly as before. anyone know why?

Third, it has a coated lense with reduced reflection now. It shines a bit bluish, but nicely.

Fourth, the clip is better than before.





Fifth, the green anodizing is far better than of previous models. I really like this one, altogether it seems like a Jet-III M 2.0 and it makes an outstanding light.

salut!


----------



## NewTech

some changes to previous editions:

First: the reflector is somehow different to the "normal" SMO version. It is probably the "hybrid" SMOP (although there is no OP stucture visible) and has kind of a transition in the lower part, near the pill - just like the Nitecore SR3.

My Jetbeam III M R2has different reflector (SMO). 

At first the beam was quite a mess, awkwardly ringy and a considerable doughnut hole in the center, but after placing a 0,3mm spacer under the reflector the beam is awesome.

My beam about the same as this beam.

With that adaptation made, I'm glad I didn't choose the OP.

Second, the threads have changed. They are not the usual square threads any more and they are not running as smoothly as before. anyone know why?.

My Jetbeam III M R2 has the same threads (running not smoothly).

Third, it has a coated lense with reduced reflection now. It shines a bit bluish, but nicely.

Fourth, the clip is better than before.

My Jetbeam III M R2 have the same clip.

Fifth, the green anodizing is far better than of previous models. I really like this one, altogether it seems like a Jet-III M 2.0 and it makes an outstanding light.

salut![/QUOTE].

I bought my Jetbeam III M R2 on October, 2009.


----------



## berry580

> Second, the threads have changed. They are not the usual square threads any more and they are not running as smoothly as before. anyone know why?.


Yeah yeah, my TC-R3's threads are not square cut unlike my Jet-III PRO Ti and Jet-Ti M. I was a bit disappointed?

looks like they're planning to make this change to all their future lights. That's a downgrade in my opinion.

does anyone know otherwise?


----------



## EngrPaul

On the older models with the square threads, the head is wobbly. They had put a super-tight o-ring in to overcome this. But this made the head too hard to turn to change modes.

If you have both models, try removing the o-ring. See how the wobbly head is much better with the new threads. You can use a thinner o-ring for smoother operation with the new ones. I think it is an improvement for sure.


----------



## KD5XB

I just unscrewed the head from my older Jet 3 Military, and while it's true that the head will wobble around a bit while unscrewed, I think I prefer the earlier setup anyway.


----------



## berry580

i think i prefer square cut as well even if it means it'll wobble a bit while being unscrewed.

as with tight o-ring causing difficulty to turn bezel, I do not agree. For all Jet-III M's, at the base of the bezel there's a 'floating' copper contact plate to allow the light to know when to go on to max mode. Since the copper plate is floating, i think it's the friction between the contact plate and the light's body that's causing the difficulty in turning the bezel and IMO it has little to do with the o-ring especially when well lubed.


----------



## [email protected] dog

With the Low Profile Crenulated Bezel is there supposed to be a gap between the lens and bezel of about 1/16 of an inch? The standard bezel has a good tight fit, metal to metal. 

Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## kar120c

Me too I wish to know if low profile crenulated bezel has a gap between the head of the flaslight. But the upgraded bezels are produced by Jetbeam or are aftermarkets upgrades?


----------



## JML

berry580 said:


> ... i think it's the friction between the contact plate and the light's body that's causing the difficulty in turning the bezel and IMO it has little to do with the o-ring especially when well lubed.


 
Well, I'm not sure about that. Changing the lube makes a big difference with my JetBeams (square threaded). Nyogel makes them hard to turn; changing to SuperLube makes a big difference with the ease of turning the heads.


----------



## JKPinPDX

jzelek said:


> Just got this from BOG today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R2 bin with low profile crenulated bezel.



Did you order this bezel as an "additional accessory" or did it come as "Standard" equipment. I thought the JB III M came with a flat bezel as standard. :kewlpics:

I ordered this exact light from Bugoutgrear and I should be getting mine next week!


----------



## Brigadier

Just ordered an OD green warm tint version and a crenulated bezel today from BOG. :twothumbs

Given the simple UI, can the light be used for signalling, like Morse Code?


----------



## naked2

Yes (forward clicky)


----------



## KD5XB

I've tried a couple of times but I guess I have a spastic thumb or something. It's too easy for me to push the button in too far and it stays on. Instead of sending "didahdit didahdit" I usually get something like "didahdit didaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah oh spit this darn thing stuck on".


----------



## naked2

It's a little tough at first with the button being recessed into the SS crenulated ring, but with a little practice, it becomes easy.


----------



## jhc37013

I'm thinking of getting one I seen specs that say 225 lumen if you use cr123 and 240 lumen if you use RCR123 is this how it works?

From flashlightngear website:

*Output & Runtime:*


*18650 Rechargeable Lithium Battery*
*Max Output:*
*CR123*2: 225Lumen, 2Hours*
*RCR123*2: 240Lumen, 1Hours*
*18650*1: 225Lumen, 3Hours*

*Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours*


----------



## bondr006

*@ jhc37013* *per JET-lll M Q5 run times.* *The R2 is 250 lumens with same run times.*

*JETBeam Website:
*
Max Output: 
CR123*2: 225Lumen, 2Hours
RCR123*2: 225Lumen, 1Hours
18650*1: 225Lumen, 3Hours
Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours


*FlashlightJunction Website:*

Max Output: 
CR123*2: 250Lumen, 2Hours
RCR123*2: 250Lumen, 1Hours
18650*1: 250Lumen, 3Hours
Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours


*BOG Website:*

MAX output
CR123*2: 225Lumen, 2Hours
RCR123*2: 225Lumen, 1Hours
18650*1: 225Lumen, 3Hours
Min Output: 2 Lumen, lasting for 200 hours


----------



## jhc37013

Now a 250 spec oh boy just when I thought I had it figured out. 

Edit: Well 225, 240, 250 no matter I couldn't hold back and ordered one I'm looking forward to comparing throw, spill brightness and tint with other similar sized lights. I had to order the olive drab, I love Jetbeam's army green finish.


----------



## bondr006

jhc37013 said:


> I love Jetbeam's army green finish.



Well here's some JB Olive Drab Green pron for ya...:laughing:


----------



## Brigadier

It will go lower than 2 lumens. You can set the user defined setting to what I guesstimate is about .1 lumens - it is much lower than my NovaTac 85T's .3 lumen low. :twothumbs


Here is mine with my RRT-1.


----------



## selfbuilt

Brigadier said:


> It will go lower than 2 lumens. You can set the user defined setting to what I guesstimate is about .1 lumens - it is much lower than my NovaTac 85T's .3 lumen low. :twothumbs


Yes, the min mode on the Jet-III M is quite low - on my early review sample, it is a little lower than my Novatac 120P's min output.


----------



## naked2

jhc37013 said:


> I had to order the olive drab, I love Jetbeam's army green finish.


Isn't that the only color it's made in? :thinking:


----------



## pobox1475

I ordered my Raptor 2 in a warm tint green body and OP reflector. Got a black warm SMO. They agreed to send me the OP and I just kept the black. Was afraid if swapped might have an possible issue. The black works great.


----------



## Monocrom

naked2 said:


> Isn't that the only color it's made in? :thinking:


 
Nope! Check out the pics on page 1.


----------



## naked2

I only see a Jet-III M in green; what are you seeing?


----------



## jhc37013

You can choose.

http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/jemi.html


----------



## Monocrom

naked2 said:


> I only see a Jet-III M in green; what are you seeing?


 
It's grey.


----------



## bondr006

LightJunction.com also has them in both green and grey. jhc37013 was saying he "had" to order the olive drab....not because it was the only choice available to him, but because he strongly preferred that color.


----------



## naked2

jhc37013 said:


> You can choose.


I stand corrected; I didn't realize that the _newer_ R2 edition had color choices. 

But I beileve (although I could be wrong; again!) that the _original_ Jet-III M, the one reviewed here in the OP by selfbuilt, only came in one color- natural. Which BTW on _my_ sample, looks green, similar to some of my older SureFires. _That's_ what I thought you were referring to (I like the natural as much as you like the green!). 

At any rate, JetBeam's anodizing/finish is spectacular in any color! :twothumbs 



Monocrom said:


> It's grey.


Which picture? (numbered from top to bottom, #1 being the first picture in the OP)




bondr006 said:


> jhc37013 was saying he "had" to order the olive drab....not because it was the only choice available to him, but because he strongly preferred that color.


That was never in question (by me).


----------



## ToNIX

I'm about to order mine 

Is it possible to get a picture of the new Green with the original Gray Jet-III M? I know there are "official" pictures, but the gray looks way too gray on them.

Also, is seems that this light doesn't come with a holster. What are good holsters for it? I'll try to get my hands on a ripoffs holster, but they are pretty hard to find.


----------



## JML

The only thing I don't like about the Military is the clip. It's just not up to the quality of the rest of the light.

If you want to remove it without damaging the light, here's one way to do it. Remove the head and batteries, and put a thin 2" x 1" section of 1/16" thick plastic or cardboard between the clip and the body, to protect everything from the clip coming off and from the tool used to knock the clip off. I put the body on a small block of hardwood, holding it vertically, with the clip attachment section hanging over the edge so the clip can drop off. Then, using a small jeweler's mallet with a soft tip, to avoid marring anything, I gently tapped the end of the clip until it slipped out. 

This avoids any side-to-side movement of the clip when removing it, which can damage the attachment section of the body.

I suggested to Flavio yesterday that a nice option would be a lanyard attachment replacement for the pocket clip. I think it should be stainless (matching the bezel and tail cap) and fit into the clip attachment point. All it needs to work would be an ovalized tab, at a right-angle to the body, with a hole in the center for a lanyard cord or split ring. The ovalized tab would stick out just enough to permit use of a gate clip attachment, and would serve to prevent the light from rolling, just like the pocket clip. An oval shape would prevent it from sticking into things. The cheap way to do this would be to use a bent piece of flat metal, like the clip, where the tab was at right angles to the body, but the exquisite way would be to machine a piece where the tab was in line with the body.

Of course, that would not work well in a tight-fitting pouch, but neither does the pocket clip.


----------



## Monocrom

Pocket clip is definitely the only thing I don't like about mine.

I'm considering replacing it with a short Surefire clip, but not sure if the swap would be 100% viable.


----------



## Hrvoje

Just received mine. Awesome flashlight! Thanks Flavio for excellent service and fast shipping! But, modder in me decided to replace the original R2 with a slightly warmer R2 bin. So, here are a couple pictures of the driver and the led assembly. Led is press fitted, and there is no thermal paste beneath, but I put some paste under the new led, can't do any harm, and the new led is something smaller so the heat can't be transfered around the circumference like on the original one.

























Hrvoje


----------



## skyfire

nice pics!!!

the clip is rather weak, if i pocket carry mine, i carry it bezel up.

ToNIX:
youtube has a great video, including the grey, and OD version, and cool and warm tint comparisions. its a european video, so i didnt understand what he was saying, but the video quality is good. the video also includes him using the holster, which made me pass on that, and find a better one.


to me the grey is like a charcoal, or gun-metal.


----------



## Hrvoje

Another mod. The original tailcap switch boot cover is kind of thin, so I replaced it with GITD silicone tailcap from DX. Now the switch give a much more positive feeling, and best of all, it glows in the dark 





Hrvoje


----------



## selfbuilt

Hrvoje said:


> JLed is press fitted, and there is no thermal paste beneath, but I put some paste under the new led, can't do any harm, and the new led is something smaller so the heat can't be transfered around the circumference like on the original one.


Hmmm, press-fitted or not, there should definitely have been some thermal compound under that mini-star. I find the lack of it in your sample very disconcerting (especially in a relatively heavily-driven light). For a few cents difference in cost, that could drastically reduce LED longevity. 

I sincerely hope this is an isolated incident and not the new norm.


----------



## pobox1475

> the video also includes him using the holster, which made me pass on that, and find a better one.


 Maxpedition makes some nice tube holsters. I am waiting for the 5" Foliage Green one they are in the process of making to become available.


----------



## 1boredguy

is this a top choice for a light to mount on a rifle?


----------



## jhc37013

1boredguy said:


> is this a top choice for a light to mount on a rifle?



My friend their are many top choices for that and I think the Jet M would be a contender to. Do a search in the search box in the above CPF search box on lights for rifle mount and I'm sure you will find plenty of good info.


----------



## spence.smith

I wonder if the Jet-III Pro uses a R2 emitter like the Jet-I Pro does. And for that matter, what emitter is used in the I.B.S. series. In all seriousness, does anyone know what the "I.B.S." really stands for? Btw, my money's on Jet Beam beating Fenix to market, as they are the first (and still _only_,I beieive) company to sell a production light with the R2 emitter (except lights with a R2 drop-in).


----------



## bondr006

@ spence.smith

Are you serious or is the above posted just for laughs?


----------



## skyfire

bondr006 said:


> @ spence.smith
> 
> Are you serious or is the above posted just for laughs?


 
LOL i got a laugh out of it!

im drunk...so ill just type some stuff... IBS = infinite brightness something:shrug:

many brands are now using XP-G R4 or R5 emitters such as the fenix, eagletac, and quark.

i still prefer my Q3 jet lll M. i almost bought a surefire LX2 but didnt because its cool tint, 

this is probably a good thing because now ive crossed many lights off my "want to buy list" based on tint.


----------



## jhc37013

I think it's Infinite Brightness Setting or is it System?? spence is a bit behind in the times it seems. I first thought for some reason his post was a couple years old in a new fairly resent thread but he is a new member so maybe we can bring him up to date gently.


----------



## Brian321

Is this light still up to todays technology? I want to purchase this in warm tint. Should i go with the OP or SMO reflector for a better looking beam? Thanks.


----------



## Monocrom

Brian321 said:


> Is this light still up to todays technology? I want to purchase this in warm tint. Should i go with the OP or SMO reflector for a better looking beam? Thanks.


 
Still a good choice. From a technological perspective, it's not obsolete.

Smooth reflector is for maximum throw, but you end up with rings in the beam. Textured reflector provides for a nice beam profile. Smooth and even, at the expense of throw. If you want as much throw as possible, go with the smooth reflector. Otherwise get the other one instead.


----------



## lightsandknives

I just received mine a couple of days ago. I got the neutral version, and it has a very nice beam with OP reflector. I don't think you'll be disappointed. It's a hefty, well built light that appears that it would take some abuse and still keep working.


----------



## Charles L.

Just got one in olive green with warm tint/OP reflector. Agree that the clip is not ideal, and I too wish there were a way to ramp past the different modes without having to wade through all of them. Otherwise it's a great little light! My first warm tint, probably won't be my last.

While it has nothing to do with the functionality of a light, I have to commend JetBeam on their aesthetics. They make some really nice-looking lights.


----------



## Tally-ho

Hello,

I'm planning to buy this JetBeam in a few days. I live in France and tried to find a dealer in USA with reasonnable shipping fees but didn't find one yet.
So, maybe I will buy it on ebay...but I saw the same model with differents logo and prints on the body.
I saw here too, body with CE logo but it is a false one generally put on copy/clone.

Here is an exemple, bottom left is a false logo, bottom right is the real one







False one generally looks like this:






Like here:



bondr006 said:


>



So I would like to ask to those who have a JetBeam with this logo if they bought it from a trusted shop/retailer or from ebay ?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## Monocrom

I never buy lights on eBay. Too easy to get a fake. If you want to be certain it's real, buy from a reputable dealer. It might cost a bit more in shipping, but you'll be certain your's is the real thing.

I bought mine from Flavio at Bug Out Gear USA.


----------



## MiniLux

Hy Tally-ho,

as you live in France, you might give a try to a french dealer as well:

http://www.neolumen.eu

MiniLux


----------



## bondr006

Mine was also bought from a trusted and reputable dealer at lightjunction.com.


----------



## Charles L.

Mine came from BugoutGear as well.

btw, the French website referenced above suggests (I think -- my French is pretty rusty) that the III-M should not be used with a 2600mAh battery -- is that correct?


----------



## bondr006

You may want to check your information because I am guessing that you have the two logos confused. The one on the left that you claim to be false is actually the true CE logo. It is what is on all my Surefires, Jetbeams, Nitecores, and a few other brand lights I have. I am at work now, but I will get some pictures up later.

*EDIT:* I just checked some of the power chargers in my office...Including Dell, ASUS, HP, and a few others. They all have the exact same logo pictured as the ones you claim are false.



Tally-ho said:


> Here is an exemple, bottom left is a false logo, bottom right is the real one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> False one generally looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like here:
> 
> 
> 
> So I would like to ask to those who have a JetBeam with this logo if they bought it from a trusted shop/retailer or from ebay ?
> 
> Thank you in advance.


----------



## 1boredguy

I disagree. I checked a few of my personal electronics, and they fall in line with Tally-ho's point.

The official logo has the "E" spaced a specific distance from the "C."

The official logo isn't supposed to have the grid on it, maybe you got confused on that? The grid is just aiding the visibility distance between the letters.




bondr006 said:


> You may want to check your information because I am guessing that you have the two logos confused. The one on the left that you claim to be false is actually the true CE logo. It is what is on all my Surefires, Jetbeams, Nitecores, and a few other brand lights I have. I am at work now, but I will get some pictures up later.
> 
> *EDIT:* I just checked some of the power chargers in my office...Including Dell, ASUS, HP, and a few others. They all have the exact same logo pictured as the ones you claim are false.


----------



## MiniLux

Charles L. said:


> Mine came from BugoutGear as well.
> 
> btw, the French website referenced above suggests (I think -- my French is pretty rusty) that the III-M should not be used with a 2600mAh battery -- is that correct?



Can't find anything relating to this on the page.
Anyways, the only point with a 2600mAh 18650 might be that a light is too tight to fit larger ones, but the Jet-III M is large enough so there shouldn't be any problem 

MiniLux


----------



## Hrvoje

I have one Jet-III M from BOG, one from eBay. Both CE logos are identical. By the way, here is the thread about that:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/237662

Hrvoje


----------



## bondr006

1boredguy said:


> I disagree. I checked a few of my personal electronics, and they fall in line with Tally-ho's point.
> 
> The official logo has the "E" spaced a specific distance from the "C."
> 
> The official logo isn't supposed to have the grid on it, maybe you got confused on that? The grid is just aiding the visibility distance between the letters.



So you would like me to believe that my Surefire E1B head has a false "European conformity" logo on it because the letters aren't spaced correctly. BTW...All the other logos I checked and mentioned in my post above look correctly spaced. Does that mean Surefire is using the logo incorrectly, or maybe there is no real conformity/uniformity as to how the CE are spaced. Between my E1B, JET-lll M, and the power bricks, there are three different spacings. Which one is correct? :thinking::shrug::sigh:

SF E1B





JET-lll M





HP





SONY





DELL





ASUS


----------



## Charles L.

MiniLux said:


> Can't find anything relating to this on the page.
> Anyways, the only point with a 2600mAh 18650 might be that a light is too tight to fit larger ones, but the Jet-III M is large enough so there shouldn't be any problem
> 
> MiniLux


 
There's a reference on the "Lampes 18650" page that certain lights, including the III-M, are "non compatible 18650 2600mAh." A moot point for me in any event, since I don't have any 2600mAh 18650's 

I got excited when I saw a III-M titanium on that page, but unfortunately it is "Rupture de stock." I love the French language, wish I had paid more attention in class!


----------



## BeeMan458

_There's a reference on the "Lampes 18650" page that certain lights, including the III-M, are "non compatible 18650 2600mAh." A moot point for me in any event, since I don't have any 2600mAh 18650's _

Does that mean I have to take the 3000 mAh 18650 out of my Jet-III M because it doesn't fit?

:thinking:

:naughty:


----------



## Hrvoje

Just tried protected Trustfire 2400 mAh (total lenght 68 mm) + 1 mm thick magnetic spacer, and the cell fit in without a problem. Inside diameter of the tube is 18.85 mm, so I assume that the most cells will fit.

Hrvoje


----------



## Tally-ho

Tally-ho said:


> I saw here too, body with CE logo but it is a false one generally put on copy/clone.



Sorry about this short affirmation I didn't develop more because of my bad english.

Please refer to this to understand better:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CE_mark

_*Dimensions*
The CE logo must be at least 5 mm high. The letters "CE" are not enough. The logo must not be modified.

*Rumor about confusing CE marks*
(...) Some products may be conforming but not displaying the logotype correctly and others may illegally put the correct mark on a non-conforming item._

So I suppose that those flashlights made by well-known-manufacturers with bad logo make part of the first type (_products may be conforming but not displaying the logotype correctly_). For example this logo could have been modified to fit in a small label but generally, in the same time, the real logo could be find in the user's manual.
But with flashlights or products bought on ebay, you couldn't really know which manufacturer made it.

I mentioned this because I had suspicions about it, in Europe the problem is well known. There are lots of cheap Chinese goods/pruducts that belong to the second category, but most of the time those very cheap products have a false logo because they never been tested to be "approved", for example toys for children with lead in the paint were found in discount shops. Very good copy of great manufacturers have been found in trusted shop too.

As most of the time I try to stay away from products with false logo, I asked the question to know where your bought yours.


----------



## Monocrom

If the "CE" mark is truly important to you or for your needs, skip eBay completely. Buy from one of the reputable dealers mentioned in this topic.


----------



## MiniLux

Charles L. said:


> There's a reference on the "Lampes 18650" page that certain lights, including the III-M, are "non compatible 18650 2600mAh." A moot point for me in any event, since I don't have any 2600mAh 18650's



Oh yes, I see now what happens 

The site is selling AW cells, and the AW 18650 2600mAh are flat-top cells, so they may not make contact on the positive side (aka head) in some flashlights if that one is flat-topped too, e.g. no spring or protuberating nipple on the + side.

So it appears that the seller just wants to warn his customers that those 2600mAh cells awailable on his site may not be 'compatible' with some lights.

MiniLux


----------



## Charles L.

That makes sense. Thanks for the clarification!


----------



## Brigadier

According to BOG USA, the 2600mAh 18650 will not WORK in the III-M because it is not button top. It will fit, just not make contact.


----------



## MiniLux

Brigadier said:


> According to BOG USA, the 2600mAh 18650 will not WORK in the III-M because it is not button top. It will fit, just not make contact.



Back at home now and checked for that:
at least my two III-M do work with AW 2600 flat top cells, and if you look at the pictures of the backside of the head in post #1 of this thread, as well as the ones on the french site, you'll see that it's not flat-top.

So, unless JetBeam made major changes as for this on the latest batch(es), AW 2600mAh should work fine 

MiniLux


----------



## boloson

the AW 2600mAh 18650 works perfectly fine with the jet IIIM. i've been using them close to 3 weeks now without a problem whatsoever.


----------



## Hrvoje

Jet-III M lego. Extension adapter is from old Surefire 6P . I know that Jet-III M use square threads, but I screwed the adapter without any problem. The thread pitch is the same, and the tolerance is loose. The driver circuit have input voltage from 2.7-15 V, so this combination is well inside the safety range. 
Another moddification is the small spring on the top of (+) on the head, which purpose is to eliminate the rattling of unprotected cells.

Hrvoje


----------



## Brigadier

You can also use the M1X extension.


----------



## Hrvoje

I thought so, but I didn't want to spend 15 bucks for something I wasn't sure if it would fit 

Hrvoje


----------



## e1sbaer

Brigadier said:


> According to BOG USA, the 2600mAh 18650 will not WORK in the III-M because it is not button top. It will fit, just not make contact.


I can confirm that. 
My jet-III m and 18650 2600mAh came in yesterday. The aw 2200 mAh worked right away, the aw 2600mAh seemed dead.

It's not much of a problem though. Just solder a top on the + side of the battery and it works great.

I used an 11 Watt soldering iron to heat the metal + for some time and then apply the solder. It's rock solid.


----------



## Tally-ho

(I mentioned this problem in another thread but I add it here so that those who are interested in this model know to what they might be exposed.)

I have read many messages praising the quality of manufacturing jetbeam, so I bought a JetIII-M in confidence. 

To activate the user-defined setting, you have to tightening/loosening the head so the head's threads and body's threads for the head can be solicited rather often.
After 2 or 3 uses I found that the head hanging/scratching a lot. I unscrewed it complety to remove and change the lubricant. I thought that there was fragments/debris of metal stuck in the lubricant.
In fact it is the threads that was very badly machined:

(click to enlarge)












I report this problem to Jetbeam in several emails but they responded to none until now. My english is very bad but I sent pictures to illustrate this problem so there was no confusion possible.

I've never seen this even on budget flashlights and for exemple, dealextreme send you a replacement part or complete flashlight, sometime without having to return the defective one...but Jetbeam simply ignore your problem with their defective flashlight(s).

I let you judge Jetbeam's quality and after-sales service, but this is the first and probably the last Jetbeam I bought.


----------



## RandomFlyer

I purchased this light in December 2009 and have been running it with an EagleTac 2400mAh 18650. It is a very solid light and a great "thrower". 

A recent inadvertent discovery was a programming mode that allows the low light mode to be re-programmed to strobe, sos, or a different light output. This was welcome news as I have not found the low light feature very useful since I routinely use a small keychain led for low light tasks. Reading this thread helped confirm that it was a feature instead of a problem or malfunction. 

Currently the 2nd mode is programmed to operate at about half the brightness of the high output mode.


----------



## Budda

I got my R2 version a month ago.
great flashlight. Anyone knows the runtime of R2 version?


----------



## Notsure Fire

Eh I'm going to resist the temptation to upgrade emitters every time a more efficient one comes out. The difference isn't that large among adjacent bins.


----------



## selfbuilt

> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *KnOeFz* on 11-03-2010 02:24 AM GMT
> 
> I received my M3 r5 edition a couple of weeks ago, and noticed they changed the tailcap.
> 
> There's no longer the stainless crenelated end on the tail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I liked the look of the stainless piece on the tailcap.





> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *Illumination* on 11-28-2010 05:34 AM GMT
> 
> Can someone please comment on the Jet IIIM R5 - beam quality, other changes from the R2, etc?
> 
> How well does it compare to it's competition (Maelstrom G5, Fenix TK15, Etc.). There doesn't seem to be much discussion about the new version of this light. Thinking of getting one of these.
> 
> Thanks!





> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *marjon* on 11-28-2010 08:28 AM GMT
> 
> I got my R5, brighter than R2





> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *Illumination* on 11-28-2010 10:02 AM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> marjon said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got my R5, brighter than R2
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. How is the beam quality? Artifacts? Ringy? Fill vs. flood? Thanks. How is the beam quality? Artifacts? Ringy? Fill vs. flood?
> 
> Can anyone compare to a Maelstrom G%?
Click to expand...




> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *phantom23* on 11-28-2010 03:37 PM GMT
> 
> Jet-III M is much smaller than G5, it also has much smaller reflector=more flood.





> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *Monocrom* on 11-28-2010 03:44 PM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> phantom23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Jet-III M is much smaller than G5, it also has much smaller reflector=more flood.
> 
> 
> 
> Might be smaller, but still as large as a typical 2xCR123 light. If the clip wasn't so uncomfortable when holding the light, I'd EDC mine. Might be smaller, but still as large as a typical 2xCR123 light. If the clip wasn't so uncomfortable when holding the light, I'd EDC mine.
Click to expand...


----------



## selfbuilt

> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *shao.fu.tzer* on 11-29-2010 10:22 AM GMT
> 
> Wow, I've never owned a Jetbeam but when I saw that a R5 version came out I did a little research on youtube and found this video:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfHjdKvB1Es
> 
> Seems pretty tough. Thinking about buying one now...






> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *rpf717* on 11-29-2010 04:08 PM GMT
> 
> I am thinking about getting the III M R5 version. It looks like a pretty sweet package. I had a couple of quesitons however.
> 
> 1) The post above by Tally-Ho has me abit concerned about the machining of the threads. I haven't seen anyone else comment on this. For those of you that have one, do you see this pitting and flaws on the threads?
> 
> 2) While I'd plan on running it with 18650's 95% of the time, I'm interested in having something that is versitile from a cell perspective. If you place a M1X extender on it, you would have a host of options for cells, I was wondering if in pinch you could use 2xAA cells to run it? I assume it would also take 2x18500's, 3 CR 123's or RCR 123's, or a 18650 with a spacer, correct?
> 
> 3) Anyone have any thoughts on the Cree R5 vs the Q3? I like the idea of the warm tint, but the R5 has a HUGE increase in output (355 vs 200). It would seem a large sacrifice in power for the "warm" tint.





> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *selfbuilt* on 11-29-2010 04:36 PM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> rpf717 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I If you place a M1X extender on it, you would have a host of options for cells, I was wondering if in pinch you could use 2xAA cells to run it? I assume it would also take 2x18500's, 3 CR 123's or RCR 123's, or a 18650 with a spacer, correct?
> 
> 
> 
> No, you should not assume all those things. 2x18500 would work fine, since this is the same input voltage as 2xRCR. But the light is not rated for 3xRCR/CR123A (would need to accept at least 13V). Unless a manufacturer's specs explicitly support this, you should assume instead that it would destroy the circuit. And I doubt 2xAA would run, since that is below the minimum voltage specs. In any case, if the threading has changed, I doubt the old M1X extender would still fit. No, you should not assume all those things. 2x18500 would work fine, since this is the same input voltage as 2xRCR. But the light is not rated for 3xRCR/CR123A (would need to accept at least 13V). Unless a manufacturer's specs explicitly support this, you should assume instead that it would destroy the circuit. And I doubt 2xAA would run, since that is below the minimum voltage specs. In any case, if the threading has changed, I doubt the old M1X extender would still fit.
Click to expand...




> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *llittle* on 12-31-2010 04:07 PM GMT
> 
> I just rec'd my new Jet-III M (355 lumen model, OP reflector) a few hours ago. The user interface is much easier to use than I thought it would be, the beam quality/tint is very acceptable. I have the user mode set to the lowest it will go, which is very low (a good thing). I'll be carrying it a Fenix pouch thingie I had laying around (my wife lost the flashlight it came with).
> 
> This is my second Jet-III M, the first one was defective (egg shaped hot spot). It had the smooth reflector. I highly prefer the OP reflector in this one.
> 
> Good job, JetBeam! Thanks Flavio, for the quick replacement!


----------



## selfbuilt

> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *FireHawk007* on 01-22-2011 10:24 AM GMT
> 
> I'm also interested in JETBeam JET-III M Cree R5 355 Lumens. It would be nice to see some more feedback from those who have it.





> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *Slowbra01* on 02-21-2011 10:18 PM GMT
> 
> Hello to all. This is my first post. I found this forum when i was searching for more info about this light and i have been searching the forums as well as the rest of the net for answers before i posted.
> 
> Initially i wanted the E2dLed (and i still do), but I have fallen in love with this light! I don't know much nor am i picky about beam patterns. I just want a light that is dependable and BRIGHT! So in comparing lumens, that is the reason i am deciding to go with the Jetbeam over the E2dLed. I want to buy it soon but i want to be sure of certain things first.
> 
> 1. From what i can understand, AW batteries are regarded here, so in trusting the experience of the members of the forum, i will purchase these batteries. However, i am not certain if these flat tops will work. As someone else here has done, they have soldered a button to make it work. I don't have a solder nor do i plan to buy one just to do it for a couple of batteries. If the AW flat tops won't work, what are your thoughts on tenergy batts and how about ultrafire button tops (although i gather UF's are looked down upon).
> 
> 2. From what i can gather, the pila IBC charger is good as well. Are there any other recommendations?
> 
> 3. I have been deciding back and forth as to which light to get, the jetbeam 3m R5 or the E2dLed. are there any side by side pics? I have decided on the Jetbeam for now due to price as well as the more customizable settings. However, if the E2dLed is THAT much better, then i would rather get that first.
> 
> 4. As far as sources go, the price for the light x1, pila charger x1, and batts x2 = $154.33 anyone else know of a better price elsewhere?





> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *Monocrom* on 02-22-2011 12:05 AM GMT
> 
> 
> 
> Slowbra01 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2. From what i can gather, the pila IBC charger is good as well. Are there any other recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> You mean something that comes close to the quality of the IBC but perhaps costs a bit less or a lot less? You mean something that comes close to the quality of the IBC but perhaps costs a bit less or a lot less?
> 
> No. Not even remotely.
Click to expand...




> *Re: JetBeam Jet-III M (Military) Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, DETAILED PICS and more*
> Written by *Slowbra01* on 02-22-2011 05:42 PM GMT
> 
> got it. Pila charger it is.
> 
> Any side by side pictures of the e2dled defender and the jetbeam 3m?


----------



## selfbuilt

The thread discussions for the last few months have been *fully restored* from the search engine cache data (thank you tandem!).

Please carry on!


----------



## Monocrom

Sweet! Everything salvaged for this topic.


----------



## lpd226

Anyone have experience with the jetbeam weapon remotes for the iii m. Good or bad i'd like to hear your thoughts because i'm thinking of mounting it to my AR which I use on duty and trust my life to.


----------



## Monocrom

lpd226 said:


> . . . I'd like to hear your thoughts because i'm thinking of mounting it to my AR which I use on duty and trust my life to.


 
I know some aren't going to like what I'm about to post. But in that type of situation, I'd go with a company that has a buttload of experience making weapon-lights. In a case of Life or Death, I'd go with a SureFire weapon-light.


----------



## lpd226

Well honestly anything would be better than what i'm using now which is about a 4 year old UTG. It has worked great but want to update to something brighter. I'm not really concerned about the reliability of the light it's just the pressure switch i'm interested in. In my opinion There are a couple manufactures that are as good as surefire but surefire has the notoriety and that's why they are considered "the best". Having said that I have used several surefire's over the course of my police career and they are excellent lights never had a problem from any of them and i've had lights from other manufactures that I can say the same about.


----------



## Monocrom

lpd226 said:


> Well honestly anything would be better than what i'm using now which is about a 4 year old UTG. It has worked great but want to update to something brighter. I'm not really concerned about the reliability of the light it's just the pressure switch i'm interested in.


 
We've had a lot of new members over the years asking about weapon-lights. Upgrades, which ones are best, "Can I use this on my _____;" that sort of thing. But not really being concerned about reliability in a weapon-light?? That's a first. Not even the air-soft guys mentioned something like that. I'm really unsure how to respond to that. All I can do is recommend going with a model known for both reliability and an excellent pressure-switch. The easy answer is indeed SureFire. Sure, plenty of other flashlight companies that make excellent lights. If PentagonLights was still around, I'd recommend their weapon-mounted models as excellent but more affordable lights compared to SureFire. But SureFire used the legal system as their whore to put PL out of business. (I say that because PL was never found guilty of patent infringement.) 

Other than the clip design, I love my Jet-III Military model. I think it's a highly underrated light, considering what you get. But, I can clearly see and feel a difference in quality compared to it and the several SureFire's I own.


----------



## naked2

We all know how some CPFers feel about SureFire (I own 8 or 10 myself, a couple of which are weaponlights); but let's face it, they're not the only game in town when it comes to "life or death" situations. After all, *this is* _a_ _JetBeam_ _thread_, and lpd226 is asking about anyone's experience with a *specific* JetBeam part, not wheather he should choose one brand over another.

lpd 226, I hope someone has that switch, that they have personally used in a "life or death" situation, and can let you know how it performs.


----------



## lpd226

naked2 said:


> We all know how some CPFers feel about SureFire (I own 8 or 10 myself, a couple of which are weaponlights); but let's face it, they're not the only game in town when it comes to "life or death" situations. After all, *this is* _a_ _JetBeam_ _thread_, and lpd226 is asking about anyone's experience with a *specific* JetBeam part, not wheather he should choose one brand over another.
> 
> lpd 226, I hope someone has that switch, that they have personally used in a "life or death" situation, and can let you know how it performs.



Thanks and just to quell the storm from the surefire fanatics I know they are top notch lights but I just cant bring myself to spend half what I paid for my rifle to put a weapon light on it. Trust me if surefires were a little more economically priced i'd own a bunch more. No matter how much you favor them anyone can see that $500.00 is a little out there for a flashlight.


----------



## DM51

This is a review thread, and it's about the Jetbeam Jet-III M. Let's have no more discussion about SureFire alternatives here, please. 

If you want to discuss SF weaponlights, please take it to the appropriate thread, or start your own.


----------



## KG5S

I just bought a Jetbeam jet III M (R5) , seems to be a great light but the 18650's I bought won't let the light operate the same way as cr123's do. When using 18650's I only have the user mode , I can set it however I like but can't get it to operate in the high only mode !

What am I doing wrong ?


----------



## cistallus

I have a Jet-III M with an AW 18650 (2200, button top), it works fine in high. Perhaps your 18650 cells are too long or too short?


----------



## naked2

Yeah, maybe his are too short (maybe unprotected?), and maybe flat-top. If his III M has reverse polarity protection, maybe with the head tightened, there is enough pressure to keep contact, but not with it loosened. I know that is alot of "maybes", but you never know.


----------



## exitinyourhead

Just a heads up, if you're thinking about purchasing this light or any light from Jetbeam. Be aware that although the warranty sounds wonderful, in reality it might not be as super as you think... I purchased one of these lights and after having it drop from my pocket to the floor (i'll be fair and admit that the floors in my house are Slate/Rock floors) the head broke clean off. I sent it off to Jetbeam for a warranty repair through Going Gear. I just got theflashlight back from Jetbeam under warranty. No problem right? Well it took just under 4 months for them to warranty it.






did the full story over on my blog.

http://banzore.tumblr.com/post/12882960821/lets-talk-chinese-flashlights-my-regular-edc

I should also clarify and say this is a sample of one. Other folks may have a different experience.


----------



## alex987

hello a question regarding a jetbeam 3m r5 my tailcap switch sometimes fails to latch in on position after a few on /off switching it locks does anyone know if the switch can be replaced by a mcclicky switch does it fit without any mods ? 
thanks and greetings alex


----------



## exitinyourhead

alex987 said:


> hello a question regarding a jetbeam 3m r5 my tailcap switch sometimes fails to latch in on position after a few on /off switching it locks does anyone know if the switch can be replaced by a mcclicky switch does it fit without any mods ?
> thanks and greetings alex



i would love to know the same thing also. Since getting my light back under warranty the tail switch seams to be sticking like yours. I sure don't want to try sending it back to Jetbeam!


----------



## exitinyourhead

alex987 said:


> hello a question regarding a jetbeam 3m r5 my tailcap switch sometimes fails to latch in on position after a few on /off switching it locks does anyone know if the switch can be replaced by a mcclicky switch does it fit without any mods ?
> thanks and greetings alex



i did find this though, made by jetbeam i think but it should help if you just need to replace

http://www.bugoutgearusa.com/forwardclickie.html


----------



## ABEDOOLEY

WOW! I guess I am WAY out of date in the LED flashlight scene. I am very impressed with how advanced LED/flashlight technology has become. Ya might say overwhelmed. I have always been a flashlight nut, now I have to catch up.


----------



## alex987

thanks exitinyourhead for the info i will try the new switch 
greetings alex


----------



## exitinyourhead

alex987 said:


> thanks exitinyourhead for the info i will try the new switch
> greetings alex



great ideas on this other thread too
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...termittently&p=3799264&highlight=#post3799264


----------



## KD5XB

I have been carrying my JetBeam Jet-3 Military in my left front pocket for SIX YEARS now. The rubber cover is gone from the switch, the connections around the head sometimes get a little loose, and the 18650 batteries are getting a little flaky, but the flashlight still works fairly well.

Good service from JetBeam!


----------



## selfbuilt

KD5XB said:


> I have been carrying my JetBeam Jet-3 Military in my left front pocket for SIX YEARS now. The rubber cover is gone from the switch, the connections around the head sometimes get a little loose, and the 18650 batteries are getting a little flaky, but the flashlight still works fairly well.


Thanks for the post. Yes, the old IBS series lights were nice and robust.  I'm sure you can find a tailcap switch cover from one of the discount sites that would do the job. May need to try out a few sizes.


----------



## KD5XB

Aw shucks, I figure it's time to try something new, so I ordered a Fenix LD41 today. Can I give a link here? I'm not sure I can, so -- look for PM.

Earl


----------



## zs&tas

KD5XB said:


> Aw shucks, I figure it's time to try something new, so I ordered a Fenix LD41 today. Can I give a link here? I'm not sure I can, so -- look for PM.
> 
> Earl



oo shame, seems they have just bought out the new jetbeam 3M pro.......... XP-L 1100 lumens


----------



## naked2

zs&tas said:


> ...the new jetbeam 3M pro.......... XP-L 1100 lumens


Now on sale at BatteryJunction for $69 with free shipping!


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## KD5XB

naked2 said:


> Now on sale at BatteryJunction for $69 with free shipping!



So I'm trying to cancel the order for the Fenix and I've already ordered the new JetBeam!


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## KD5XB

Isn't this the way it always works? I got the Fenix cancelled and then got the below email. Guess the joke's on ME! 

At least the old flashlight still works, and the delay is only about a week.

Dear Earl,
As indicated on the Battery Junction website, when your order was placed, one or more of your items had delayed availability. Your account has not been charged at this time.
Below are item descriptions with current stock status. All items with an Quantity Pending 0 status have been held for your order. The order will be shipped when the last delayed item is cleared. We will charge your account once the order is ready to ship.


Item SKU:JETBEAM-3M-PRO-XPL
Product: JETBeam 3M Pro LED Flashlight - 1100 Lumens - CREE XP-L LED - Runs on 2x CR123A or 1x 18650 
Ordered: 1 
Quantity Delayed: 1 
Expected Date: 30-Sep-2014


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## blackFFM

naked2 said:


> Now on sale at BatteryJunction for $69 with free shipping!




Around 55$ from banggood. Free shipping worldwide, not only in the US.


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## phantom23

To all 18650 users - be aware that 3M XP-L won't reach full brightness on 1x18650, it won't be regulated either.


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## naked2

I use 2x 18350 in my Hermes model.


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## KD5XB

KD5XB said:


> Isn't this the way it always works? I got the Fenix cancelled and then got the below email. Guess the joke's on ME!
> 
> At least the old flashlight still works, and the delay is only about a week.
> 
> Dear Earl,
> As indicated on the Battery Junction website, when your order was placed, one or more of your items had delayed availability. Your account has not been charged at this time.
> Below are item descriptions with current stock status. All items with an Quantity Pending 0 status have been held for your order. The order will be shipped when the last delayed item is cleared. We will charge your account once the order is ready to ship.
> 
> 
> Item SKU:JETBEAM-3M-PRO-XPL
> Product: JETBeam 3M Pro LED Flashlight - 1100 Lumens - CREE XP-L LED - Runs on 2x CR123A or 1x 18650
> Ordered: 1
> Quantity Delayed: 1
> Expected Date: 30-Sep-2014



And -- still waiting. No idea when Battery Junction will receive them, so no idea when they will send mine to me. Starting to consider where else I might find one. Hmph.


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## KD5XB

phantom23 said:


> To all 18650 users - be aware that 3M XP-L won't reach full brightness on 1x18650, it won't be regulated either.



My old JetBeam Jet-3 Military seems to be the same way.


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## KD5XB

KD5XB said:


> Isn't this the way it always works? I got the Fenix cancelled and then got the below email. Guess the joke's on ME!
> 
> At least the old flashlight still works, and the delay is only about a week.
> 
> Dear Earl,
> As indicated on the Battery Junction website, when your order was placed, one or more of your items had delayed availability. Your account has not been charged at this time.
> Below are item descriptions with current stock status. All items with an Quantity Pending 0 status have been held for your order. The order will be shipped when the last delayed item is cleared. We will charge your account once the order is ready to ship.
> 
> 
> Item SKU:JETBEAM-3M-PRO-XPL
> Product: JETBeam 3M Pro LED Flashlight - 1100 Lumens - CREE XP-L LED - Runs on 2x CR123A or 1x 18650
> Ordered: 1
> Quantity Delayed: 1
> Expected Date: 30-Sep-2014



Finally gave up on Battery Junction, cancelled the order and ordered from Banggood.


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## magicstone12

love this Jetbeam flashlight,very good review.I have one question,how to test the runtime of a flashlight?I want to do a review too,but don't know how


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## selfbuilt

magicstone12 said:


> love this Jetbeam flashlight,very good review.I have one question,how to test the runtime of a flashlight?I want to do a review too,but don't know how


The simplest way is with a data-logging light meter and home-made integrating sphere. I provide a general overview of my setup on my Methods page at flashlightreviews.ca


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## selfbuilt

magicstone12 said:


> love this Jetbeam flashlight,very good review.I have one question,how to test the runtime of a flashlight?I want to do a review too,but don't know how


The simplest way is with a data-logging light meter and home-made integrating sphere. I provide a general overview of my setup on my Methods page at flashlightreviews.ca


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## KD5XB

KD5XB said:


> Isn't this the way it always works? I got the Fenix cancelled and then got the below email. Guess the joke's on ME!
> 
> At least the old flashlight still works, and the delay is only about a week.
> 
> Dear Earl,
> As indicated on the Battery Junction website, when your order was placed, one or more of your items had delayed availability. Your account has not been charged at this time.
> Below are item descriptions with current stock status. All items with an Quantity Pending 0 status have been held for your order. The order will be shipped when the last delayed item is cleared. We will charge your account once the order is ready to ship.
> 
> 
> Item SKU:JETBEAM-3M-PRO-XPL
> Product: JETBeam 3M Pro LED Flashlight - 1100 Lumens - CREE XP-L LED - Runs on 2x CR123A or 1x 18650
> Ordered: 1
> Quantity Delayed: 1
> Expected Date: 30-Sep-2014



Finally arrived today, just about two months since I decided to buy a new flashlight.

Let me get this straight -- these flashlights are BLISTER PACKED now, and absolutely all the documentation is in Chinese...:thinking:

But it sure puts out some light! And the UI is a bit different, too.

Not bad.


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## naked2

Hope you got a genuine JetBeam; how much do you trust Banggood?


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## KD5XB

naked2 said:


> Hope you got a genuine JetBeam; how much do you trust Banggood?



Good question. My first time dealing with Banggood. How would I tell a fake?


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## naked2

I'm not sure if the OP has updated this review for this newest model, but if he has, he would be able to tell you what the packaging should look like; If not, maybe you could search for another review. Also, you can try contacting JetBeam directly; does it have a serial number?


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## KD5XB

The packaging looks just like what's in the review for that flashlight, and it has a serial number fairly close to the one in that review, so -- I'm just gonna call it good!


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## selfbuilt

naked2 said:


> I'm not sure if the OP has updated this review for this newest model, but if he has, he would be able to tell you what the packaging should look like;


This review is over 6 years old now ... I have not seen what the currently shipping Jetbeam 3M looks like.

However, I have recently reviewed the Jetbeam BC25se and RRT26. As you will see in those reviews, packaging has been simplified to a common blister pack look. Overall construction of the newer lights also seems a bit more basic. Hard to describe exactly, but the "feel" is less substantial now.


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## naked2

That's too bad. 6 years ago, JetBeam set a standard for others to reach for. I remember it started with the changing of the tailcap design to a more basic one; downhill from there, maybe?


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## KD5XB

naked2 said:


> I'm not sure if the OP has updated this review for this newest model, but if he has, he would be able to tell you what the packaging should look like; If not, maybe you could search for another review. Also, you can try contacting JetBeam directly; does it have a serial number?



There's a new review for the Jet 3 Pro. I suggest we move over there, as I think discussion of the Jet 3 Pro might be off topic for this thread.


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## KD5XB

Still learning the new Android app...


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## lewie2s

Thanks for the excellent review selfbuilt. I was reading a review at amazon that said: "This is the third JET-III M I've own and definitely the brightest. Love the increased output over the previous generation. 4 stars because I miss the multiple flashing functions, SOS, and variable dim-able output." This can't be correct, right? 
Also this thread looks old, is there a newer one for the JETBeam JET 3M PRO


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## lewie2s

So it seems the Jet III M has IBS, the Jet III Pro has IBS, but the Jet III Pro M does not? This doesn't make sense to me. The Pro M is the only one available at Amazon, and I've got a gift card burning a hole in my pocket, but I want a flashlight with IBS, namely the strobe IBS or variable strobe. Any suggestions? Thanks.


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## selfbuilt

lewie2s said:


> So it seems the Jet III M has IBS, the Jet III Pro has IBS, but the Jet III Pro M does not? This doesn't make sense to me. The Pro M is the only one available at Amazon, and I've got a gift card burning a hole in my pocket, but I want a flashlight with IBS, namely the strobe IBS or variable strobe. Any suggestions? Thanks.


The IBS series lights (which were all great) were all discontinued long ago. The current owners of JetBeam brought back the Jet III Pro M model - which is a completely different light, with very basic functioning (and simpler build). You are going to have to hunt around to find a (likely used) IBS series light.


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