# Can anyone make me a SF E-series battery tube cap?



## fyrstormer (Aug 3, 2010)

I have a McGizmo 2xAA battery tube that I keep as a backup in case I need to use AAs with my Haiku. Since the head attachment point is based on the Surefire E-series, the threading is on the outside of the battery tube, which means wherever I put the tube when I'm not using it, it gets grease all over the place. I'd like a either a nylon or insulated metal cap to put on the end of the tube, both to keep the grease from getting everywhere and also to give me the option to store batteries inside the tube. Does anyone here have the tools necessary to make a shallow, internally-threaded metal or nylon cap? I have to think I'm not the only person who could make use of this, given how popular Surefire is 'round these parts, so maybe a group buy could be arranged if someone can do the work.


----------



## 65535 (Aug 3, 2010)

https://secure.mocap.com/store/c-243-rvc9037.aspx?skinid=4

If that is too loose you could drop down to a 3/4" size.


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 3, 2010)

People have pointed those out to me before, but it would be nice if there were a thread-on cap, for cleanliness' sake if nothing else.


----------



## shinbone (Aug 3, 2010)

I'm looking for a similar item to create a 2-cell battery pack out of an older E series light -- to power a different device. I still want the clicky to kill power to the device but I don't need a full flashlight head at the other end. If I must, I may resort to making an aluminum insert to replace the glass and wire out the head, but I'd like to keep the overall length to a minimum so an accessory like the OP stated would be great.


----------



## nekomane (Aug 3, 2010)

Something like this? I made it from black Delrin.
Battery rattles inside.

I'm too busy to make any, but if anyone had them CNCed, I'm sure the unit price would 
only be a few dollars.

















Someone made some for the Arc LS AA tube a long time ago too.
This one had a lanyard hole.


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 4, 2010)

YES. :huh: The black one is exactly what I'm looking for. A foam disc would stop any battery rattle.


----------



## F250XLT (Aug 5, 2010)

Wow, yeah, those black ones would be sweet.


----------



## ninemm (Aug 5, 2010)

Definitely awesome. I'd probably be down for one or more.


----------



## Ganp (Aug 5, 2010)

fyrstormer, I have a threaded aluminium cap that started out to be a tailcap but went wrong. It has a hole for a switch boot which could be filled with a .... switch boot.:laughing:

If it's any use to you PM me your address - it's free.

OOPS my mistake - wrong end 

Colin.


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 5, 2010)

You _sure_ you're too busy to make a few caps, nekomane? C'mon...be a pal...


----------



## donn_ (Aug 5, 2010)

Why not use an old E-series bezel?


----------



## gswitter (Aug 5, 2010)

nekomane said:


> Someone made some for the Arc LS AA tube a long time ago too.
> This one had a lanyard hole.


And thanks to similar threading, they work fine on _some_ E-series compatible bodies. I've been using one to keep the dust out of my 2xAA McClickie Pak.


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 6, 2010)

donn_ said:


> Why not use an old E-series bezel?


----------



## donn_ (Aug 6, 2010)

fyrstormer said:


>



What's the confusion? It would seal the tube, which you say is E-Series compatible. Fill the head with enough foam to keep the cells from rattling.


----------



## F250XLT (Aug 6, 2010)

donn_ said:


> What's the confusion? It would seal the tube, which you say is E-Series compatible. Fill the head with enough foam to keep the cells from rattling.




Or put a working bezel on it, and use it as a back-up.


----------



## Illum (Aug 6, 2010)

nekomane said:


> Something like this? I made it from black Delrin.
> Battery rattles inside.
> 
> I'm too busy to make any, but if anyone had them CNCed, I'm sure the unit price would
> only be a few dollars.



that looks absolutely beautiful! Sure thats Delrin? not ABS?


----------



## nekomane (Aug 6, 2010)

Yep Illum it's Delrin.
Looks OK from the outside but there are a few tool marks hidden inside 

I'll send one to the OP fyrstormer (check your PM) for bringing up the idea, but no more.

Though it is a simple piece, they are a pain to make. 
I'm not even sure it will work with McGizmo's lights.


----------



## gunga (Aug 6, 2010)

Man, would be so useful for the spare bodies hanging around....


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 9, 2010)

donn_ said:


> What's the confusion? It would seal the tube, which you say is E-Series compatible. Fill the head with enough foam to keep the cells from rattling.


I'm not very familiar with official Surefire E-series parts. What do these bezels look like?

Thanks nekomane, I really appreciate it. PM replied.


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 11, 2010)

The cap nekomane sent to me arrived today...along with a travel buddy! 






They fit just fine on my Clicky Paks (maybe slightly widening the inner diameter where the O-ring seats would be better, but it's not significant), and I'm now convinced the concept is good enough to sell. Since both Surefire and McGizmo sell interchangeable battery tubes of various sizes, I'm sure people would buy them.

The only catch is finding someone who can make them...:thinking:


----------



## olephart (Aug 12, 2010)

No problem making them. Lot's of people can do that. The problem is what you would pay to have it done. The material is about 50 cents per cap.

I assume you don't want to place an order for 1000, or more to get the CNC price of around $2. So, what would you pay for a 3 pack?


----------



## precisionworks (Aug 12, 2010)

> Though it is a simple piece, they are a pain to make.


+1

Any of the members with a NC lathe could do this. Figure around $100 setup charge & $5 per cap:

1 cap = $105 ($105 each)

10 caps = $150 ($15 each)

100 caps = $600 ($6 each, but someone might sell them for $5 )

Setup on a NC machine is where most of the cost is on a "simple" part like this. Truth be told, if something is made on a machine tool it is rarely simple.


----------



## fyrstormer (Aug 12, 2010)

I keep forgetting how much setup and trial-run time/effort is involved with machining. Still, $6 apiece is peanuts for anyone who's got the cash to be buying multiple battery packs for their E-series/Aleph lights. Whether there's 100 of them out there, I don't know, but I've already found use for both the ones I have, so I expect a lot of the target demographic would buy more than one.


----------



## olephart (Aug 12, 2010)

That's pretty good estimating, precisionworks. For a few parts, manual work can be close to CNC prices. I ran a cost analysis for my manual setup and found that $6 unit plus $2 shipping per order (USPS 1st Class) would work for a minimum order of 2 units.

A 3 unit order could go for $5 each plus postage. It's also interesting that these could be made out of aluminum with a brushed finish for about same amount.


----------



## PEU (Aug 12, 2010)

3 years ago there was almost no interest: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/143433

Pablo


----------



## shinbone (Aug 13, 2010)

The covers are beautiful! I had envisioned something closer to what PEU shows in his thread from the past (aluminum with knurling), but the delrin option is elegant, provides insulation, and does not require anodizing or paint. Nice work nekomane! 

For my need mentioned earlier in this thread I've chosen to use an E1E/E2E head and will wire out through the glass (actually a piece of equivalent thickness brass). This will permit me to reverse changes if my experiment doesn't work.


----------

