# 5 mode # 7135 circuit board



## Lighthouse one (Sep 22, 2007)

I just got a 7135 board- and am quite satisfied with the result
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190

Runs at 1 amp with a fresh 18650....

I don't care for strobes- but the UI works great.

I built my own with one of the reflector kits...

should I pot the board? And what would you use?

Still can't figure an easy way to ground the board to the assembly.

I tried it in my huntlight..and it's excellent. I actually like the reverse clicky better- since I can change modes after the light is one- by just pressing the tailcap.


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## StefanFS (Sep 23, 2007)

I have used a number of these boards with D-mini, 3D mags etc. I don't pot or heatsink them since they don't seem to get hot. I checked this before starting to use them in my 3D mag mods.


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## taschenlampe (Sep 23, 2007)

I am also pleased with the one I tried: link

Were the leads soldered to the board at the boards you received from DX?


tl


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## mjzraz2 (Sep 23, 2007)

Lighthouse one said:


> I just got a 7135 board- and am quite satisfied with the result
> http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190
> 
> Runs at 1 amp with a fresh 18650....
> ...



What is the difference between the strobe and the SOS Mode? How often does it flash on and off? I mean is strobe like multiple on/off many times per second and SOS is like one second on, one second off?

I am looking to put it in a DIY light housing, not a flashlight so I am wondering how/where to attach the battery + and -. Would I solder directly to the bottom? then I would be concerned about a short circuit inside my housing if I didn't cover it somehow.


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## Lighthouse one (Sep 23, 2007)

Raz2 A strobe is fast...like 8 times a second... sos is just that ...---... done slowly. A real waste, but the flashlight makers seem to think we like these gimmicks!
For some reason the two wires are not attached to the driver, so if you don't like soldering real small ...don't get this board! You have to look closely at the photo in the DX site to see where to solder the wires. There are two very small pads to attach the wires to.


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## alphazeta (Sep 23, 2007)

mjzraz2 said:


> I am looking to put it in a DIY light housing, not a flashlight so I am wondering how/where to attach the battery + and -. Would I solder directly to the bottom? then I would be concerned about a short circuit inside my housing if I didn't cover it somehow.



That's correct, you would solder the input wires directly to the bottom of the pad. 

As a practice, I think it's always wise to cover up any exposed wires. You could pot the bare connections with epoxy or even just tape up the entire driver with electrical tape. A lot of times, I personally like to use a hot glue gun to encase the connections. That way it's also waterproof.

Hope that helps.


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## taschenlampe (Sep 23, 2007)

On mine strobe is about 11 flashes per second (11Hz).

SOS is (approximate) "three flashes in one second - one second delay – three flashes, 
one second each – one second delay - three flashes in one second – four seconds 
delay" then it starts again.


Solder points:






tl

Imageserver: www.imagenetz.de


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## shakeylegs (Sep 25, 2007)

I wanted to make a poor man's mule so I put one of these circuits in a [email protected] with a seoul P4 u bin star mounted just under the lens. Driven with 2 energizer lithium e2's the results were underwhelming - something like .35 amp on high. Side by side with my Zebralight, the Zebra was at least twice and perhaps quadruple the brightness of the [email protected] mod. I was expecting a constant current regulator but seems it might be a linear regulator. 

BTW, Kai seems to be selling the same circuit but he is showing voltage range of 2.6V to 6V rather than DX's 2.6V to 4.5V. Kai's also offers 3 different mode groupings. Does anyone know if these are the same circuit?


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## StefanFS (Sep 26, 2007)

You need to feed the driver more than the leds forward voltage to get good results. The driver do not boost voltage. One LiION cell, three alkalines or NiMH. It does get hot quick on 6 V. Best to keep in the 3.7-4.5 Volt region

Same driver with different programming of the microcontroller, the pic.
Stefan


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## MatajumotorS (Sep 26, 2007)

I also had tried theese boards, it is ok if you like the "memory effect", me not.
But now i am able to reprogram them (it adds brightnes setting modes, strobe setting modes, no memory effect etc...) and make them every time go from first mode and then it comes out "FluPic like" but not so complicated.


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## johnny13oi (Sep 26, 2007)

MatajumotorS said:


> I also had tried theese boards, it is ok if you like the "memory effect", me not.
> But now i am able to reprogram them (it adds brightnes setting modes, strobe setting modes, no memory effect etc...) and make them every time go from first mode and then it comes out "FluPic like" but not so complicated.



How do you reprogram them? Could you show me the diagram on how to make the programmer and where to get the program to program? (if its run on the computer)


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## MatajumotorS (Sep 26, 2007)

johnny13oi said:


> How do you reprogram them? Could you show me the diagram on how to make the programmer and where to get the program to program? (if its run on the computer)


 
www.google.com search for "PIC programmer"
and about the programm, you must write it Yourself


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## StefanFS (Sep 26, 2007)

MatajumotorS said:


> I also had tried theese boards, it is ok if you like the "memory effect", me not.
> But now i am able to reprogram them (it adds brightnes setting modes, strobe setting modes, no memory effect etc...) and make them every time go from first mode and then it comes out "FluPic like" but not so complicated.


 
You still need to put the pic into the programmer socket. Do you desolder it from the driver? Or do you have a way to program pics when attached to the driver pcb?
Stefan


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## MatajumotorS (Sep 26, 2007)

StefanFS said:


> You still need to put the pic into the programmer socket. Do you desolder it from the driver? Or do you have a way to program pics when attached to the driver pcb?
> Stefan


Yes, i desoldered, but there is way to program in circuit too, but then i would need other programmer.


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## bluecrow76 (Sep 26, 2007)

I'm mildly familiar with pic microcontrollers. Most of them support in-circuit programming and debugging, meaning you shouldn't have to remove it from the pcb to reprogram it.

I'm curious if this little guy has the code protection turned on. If it doesn't, that means you could download the code that is currently on the microcontroller, "update it" (meaning change the code) and then put it back. I'll try and wire it to my starter kit (if it supports this chip) and see what happens! (Fingers crossed)

MatajumotorS, were you able to reprogram the same chip that was on the board?


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## MatajumotorS (Sep 27, 2007)

bluecrow76 said:


> I'm mildly familiar with pic microcontrollers. Most of them support in-circuit programming and debugging, meaning you shouldn't have to remove it from the pcb to reprogram it.
> 
> I'm curious if this little guy has the code protection turned on. If it doesn't, that means you could download the code that is currently on the microcontroller, "update it" (meaning change the code) and then put it back. I'll try and wire it to my starter kit (if it supports this chip) and see what happens! (Fingers crossed)
> 
> MatajumotorS, were you able to reprogram the same chip that was on the board?


 
I reprogrammed it with my own written code :tinfoil:


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## PEU (Sep 27, 2007)

Its called ICSP (In circuit Serial Programming) and most circuits can be programmed this way with little or no modifications.


Pablo


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## Lighthouse one (Sep 27, 2007)

I an humbled that guys from all over the world can reprogram...and write codes...and I'm lucky to solder the board without ruining it!!

Congratulations guys!!


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## AlexGT (Sep 27, 2007)

Can this fit a Lumapower M1 cree without too much modifications?

Thanks!
AlexGT


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## StefanFS (Sep 30, 2007)

AlexGT said:


> Can this fit a Lumapower M1 cree without too much modifications?
> 
> Thanks!
> AlexGT


 
Yes. There's also an 1.2 A version available from KD. You pop the old circuit out and solder the new driver into the original brass contact ring. Then hammer it (delicately) back into the light engine.
Stefan


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## taschenlampe (Oct 1, 2007)

StefanFS said:


> Yes. There's also an 1.2 A version available from KD. You pop the old circuit out and solder the new driver into the original brass contact ring. Then hammer it (delicately) back into the light engine.
> Stefan


 

Hi Stefan,
are you referring to this and that?

Do you think these will have a mode memory?
According to the description these are useable for SSC (P4?) - isn’t 1,2A a bit 
high for SSC’s?

Thank you
tl


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## datiLED (Oct 1, 2007)

taschenlampe said:


> According to the description these are useable for SSC (P4?) - isn’t 1,2A a bit high for SSC’s?


 
I have a USWOH Seoul LED in my 3-D mag with a Flupic. It is running at 1.2A on high without any problems . It is on an aluminum heatsink with Arctic Alumina, and I have thermal paste between the body and sink for improved heat conduction. I have run it for 30-45 minutes at a time without any tint shift, or dimming. FWIW, I have had this setup for about five or six months.


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## taschenlampe (Oct 1, 2007)

Thank you very much datiLED!

I have a C2 HAIII on order and will try to mod it with an SSC P4 and the 1,2A 3-mode board.


tl


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## uk_caver (Oct 1, 2007)

PEU said:


> Its called ICSP (In circuit Serial Programming) and most circuits can be programmed this way with little or no modifications.
> Pablo


I can see that for a high-pin-count chip you'd tend to leave the programming pins free to allow in-circuit programming and debugging while testing, and maybe even for updates, but for a cheap low-pin-count circuit, isn't it fairly likely that the pins might be being used in a way that prevented in-circuit programming?


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## AlexGT (Oct 2, 2007)

Hi StefanFS!, 

How do you pop the old circuit out of a Lumapower M1? I already have removed the led centering cover and detached the led, do I stick something thru the hole and poke it out, or remove it from somewhere else? Got any pics on how to do it? Thanks for the tip on the 1.2 Amp circuit, I probably going to order one, and I have a Q5 on the way to install on this light. Does regular solder stick to brass or is it something special?

AlexGT


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## StefanFS (Oct 2, 2007)

AlexGT said:


> Hi StefanFS!,
> 
> How do you pop the old circuit out of a Lumapower M1? I already have removed the led centering cover and detached the led, do I stick something thru the hole and poke it out, or remove it from somewhere else? Got any pics on how to do it? Thanks for the tip on the 1.2 Amp circuit, I probably going to order one, and I have a Q5 on the way to install on this light. Does regular solder stick to brass or is it something special?
> 
> AlexGT


 
I use a thin screwdriver and put it down the holes for the wires, you need to find the edge of the contact ring and then tap it out with a hammer. Then desolder the contact ring from the original driver and solder it to the new driver at the negative outer ring on the driver.

This is what I did with my first MRV. And this Not quite the same, but some guidance maybe. I use a thin wooden rod to tap drivers back into my lights, a sawed of pencil works. No problem soldering drivers to brass contact rings as long as the temp is high enough.
Stefan


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## M.S (Nov 12, 2007)

Thought that I found something, but I was wrong... sorry


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