# Sunwayman C10R (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS and more!



## selfbuilt (Jul 17, 2012)

*Warning: pic heavy, as usual. *











The C10R is the latest 1xCR123A/RCR-based light Sunwayman. How does it compare to the recently updated M- and V-series lines (i.e., M11R and V11R)? Let's see … 

*Reported Manufacturer Specifications:* 

LED: CREE XM-L U2
Soft-contact Side Switch:
Three constant output modes: 190Lumens (1.5hrs) – 50Lumens (10hrs) – 3Lumens (50hrs)
Strobe: 190Lumens, SOS
Constant current circuit, constant output
Effective range of 103 meters
Uses one single CR123A Lithium battery or RCR123A, 16340 battery
Low-voltage indicator lamp
Working voltage: 0.9~4.2V
High quality OP reflector maintains great throw distance and spread with an ideal beam pattern
Dimensions: 82mm (length) x 25mm (head diameter)
Weight: 63g (battery excluded)
Aerospace-grade aluminum alloy
Military Specification Type III- hard anodized body
Waterproof, in accordance with IPX-8 standard
Ultra-clear tempered glass lens resists scratches and impacts
Tail stand capable- can be used as a candle
Accessories: O-ring, lanyard, holster, stainless steel lanyard ring
MSRP: ~$66






My review sample was an early release, so it doesn't have the full packaging (the box above is the standard V11R packaging, with a "C10R U2" and "210 lumens" stickers added, so ignore the rest of the labels). I expect standard Sunwayman packaging will include a belt holster, lanyard strap, extra o-rings, manual, warranty card and product insert. 

By the way, I understand Sunwayman will be dropping the "Torpedo" label on future batches of these lights. So I guess that makes these early production run samples limited editions … 













From left to right: Duracell CR123A; Nitecore SENS CR, EZ 123; Eagletac D25C Clicky; Foursevens Mini 123; Lumintop ED10; Zebralight SC30; , V11R, C10R.

All dimensions are given with no batteries installed:

*Sunwayman C10R*: Weight: 57.3g, Length: 76.2mm (no lanyard plug), 82.3mm (with plug), Width (bezel): 25.6mm, Width (head at widest part): 28.6mm
*Sunwayman M11R*: Weight 45.8g, Length: 76.4mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Sunwayman V11R*: Weight 50.5g, Length: 84.3mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Eagletac D25C Clicky*: Weight: 30g, Length: 76.0mm, Width (bezel): 20.0mm
*Rofis JR10*: Weight 75.0g, Length (max): 110.6mm (angled): 92.9mm, Width (bezel): 24.8mm
*Jetbeam PC10*: Weight: 50.5g, Length: 93.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm
*Thrunite Neutron 1C*: Weight: 45.2g, Length: 91.5mm, Width (bezel) 22.0mm


























As with other Sunwayman lights, you still get the same rich, dark gray natural finish anodizing on the C10R. Sunwayman has always had one of the best quality finishes. As always, all labels are fairly small and bright white against the dark background. Overall build impression is similar to the T60CS I reviewed recently.

Like the M11R/V11R, Sunwayman has knurling or reasonable aggressiveness on the C10R. With other build elements (ridges, raised areas, etc), I would say overall grip is good.

The body tube is wide enough to take all primary CR123A and 16340 (RCR) Li-ion rechargeables, but 18350 is too wide to fit.

Rather than a control ring or tailcap clicky switch, the C10R is controlled by Sunwayman's new "Smart Switch" - an electronic switch in the head (under a rubber button cover). Switch feel is good for this type of switch, with a definite "click" upon activation. Scroll down for a discussion of the UI.

There is a red LED on the other side of the head from the switch, which serves as a low voltage indicator for the battery. Note this only works with RCR (16340). See the UI section for a discussion.

Body diameter is different from M- and V-series lights (i.e., head/body parts are no longer interchangeable). There are more screw threads on the C10R than those other 1xCR123A/RCR lights, but they are no longer anodized for head lockout. :sigh: They remain square-cut though.


















The tail region is interesting – there is a removable lanyard attachment ring. With the ring in place, the light cannot tailstand. With it removed, not only do you restore tailstanding, but the plug diameter perfectly fits a standard tripod mount (1/4-20 UNC). This means you could mount the light stably on a tripod base.

*User Interface*

With the head fully-connected against the body, turn the light off/on by the electronic clicky switch. The C10R has two options – click (i.e., quick press and release) for constant on, or press-and-hold for momentary. 

As with some of the Spark and Zebralight models that use a similar interface, it may take you a little time to get the timing just right (i.e., too slow on the release, and the light will shut-off, thinking you wanted momentary). But this does give you option to signal with light if you want. 

First time you activate the light, it comes on in Hi mode. Change output modes by pressing and holding the switch from clicked on. The light will cycle between constant output modes in the following order: Hi > Med > Lo, in repeating order. Let go off the switch to select the mode you want.

Light has mode memory, and will retain the last constant output used when turning off and on.

There are a "hidden" strobe and SOS mode, activated and double-clicking the switch rapidly. On first double-click you get strobe, on second double-click you get SOS. Single click to turn off. Light returns to the memorized constant output when clicked back on. 

As this is an electronic switch, a standby current is required (see below for measurements). To reduce the risk of accidental activation, Sunwayman provides a switch lock-out mode. After waiting a minimum of 7 secs with the light off, do a quick click followed immediately by a press-hold. After 1 sec, the light will shut off and cannot be re-activated until the lockout is deactivated. To restore full functioning, double-click the switch followed by a press-hold. 

Unfortunately, you cannot physically lock out the light by a head twist, as the threads are not anodized. 

There is a secondary red LED on the other side of the head from the switch, which will warn you when a RCR battery is running low. Note that RCR cell has to be charged >3.3V when first installed, or the circuit will assume it is a CR123A and not respond (i.e., there is no warning for CR123A cells). There is a brief double-flash when installing a fresh RCR cell, indicating it will monitor the battery charge.

In my testing, the indicator activated and glowed a constant red once a cell reached ~3.0-3.1V resting voltage. By this point, output had already dropped to ~10% initial output (see my runtimes below). On a protected RCR, it was a matter of a few seconds before the protection circuit engaged and the light shut-off. So the indicator is not so much an advanced output warning - you will already be well aware that the battery is nearly exhausted by the time the indicator comes on. It is really more of an indicator to let you know the protection circuit is about to trip, or that you should shut-down down to preserve an unprotected cell.

For information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my new video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

*PWM*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I presume the light is current-controlled, as claimed.  






I did detect some high-frequency noise on Hi and Med (around the 14.3 kHz range), but was unable to detect it on Lo (although it may still be there at an undetectable level in my setup). In any case, this is not detectable by eye, and it not a concern.






Strobe is a standard "tactical" high frequency strobe, measured at 12 Hz. 

*Standby Drain*

As the switch is an electronic one, a standby current drain is always present when a battery is installed. 

I measured this standby drain at 9.8uA for 1xCR123A, which for a 1400mAh CR123A would lead to over 16 years before the battery would be drained. On 1xRCR, I initially measured 20uA, but this quickly dropped to ~14 uA. For 750mAh RCR, that translate into a little over 6 years before a battery would be fully drained. Either way, it is negligible, and not a concern.

Unfortunately though, you cannot physically lock-out the light – due to the lack of anodized threads. However, as explained above, Sunwayman also provides a switch lock-out mode that is activated by a quick click followed by a sustained press (see UI section). This would at least help prevent accidental activation.

*Beamshots:*










The C10R has a slightly larger head than typical for this class, with a smooth reflector. The reflector isn't very deep, so I would expect a wide spill beam (i.e., likely something similar to a number of Zebralights). Emitter was well centered on my sample. 

And now, the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on Max output on the identified battery type. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences. 

1xRCR (AW Protected 750mAh) Li-ion Comparison:





























































1xCR123A Comparison:





























































The C10R is a slightly "throwier" than the Sunwayman M11R or V11R for the same output, with a more defined hotspot. But the C10R also has a wider spillbeam, and a clearer separation between hotspot and spill (i.e., less of a corona). It also has fewer beam rings than my M11R and V11R samples.

Note that actual overall output is pretty much the same on all three lights on 1xCR123A, and comparable between the M11R and C10R on 1xRCR. Scroll down for full output tables.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 
*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.











Sunwayman reports 190 lumens Hi output spec on 1x CR123A in the manual (although the temporary packaging box also has a 210 lumen sticker on it). Regardless, output seems pretty close to this in my testing – quite similar to the M11R, in fact. The 50 lumen Med and 13 lumen Lo modes seem a little off though – see my detailed estimated lumen table below.

The report 130m beam distance seems rather optimistic (even though I know my standard light meter tends to under-report somewhat).

On 1xRCR, the max output on the C10R increases to a comparable level of M11R. Again see my tables below for a comparison of output levels across all Sunwayman models, on both CR123A and RCR.

*Output/Runtime Comparison:*



















The Hi output level and runtime pattern is virtually identical between the C10R and M11R, on both CR123A and RCR. My C10R has slightly longer runtimes, but that is likely just natural variation between emitters/circuts (e.g. emitter Vf can have a big effect on runtime efficiency).

Efficiency also seems at least as good as the M11R on the Med levels, but output is a little higher on the C10R.

In fact, the C10R seems to have a more typical set of output levels for a Lo/Med/Hi light than the M11R (which had more a Moonlight low). C10R outputs don't exactly match the specs, though, as shown in the comparison table below.






*Potential Issues*

Switch timings may take a little getting used to. As you can activate a momentary mode by a sustained press, you must be quick on the press-release for it to register as a click (for sustained on). Other electronic switches (e.g., Zebralights and Spark) can similarly take some getting used to initially.

Due to the electronic switch, a small standby current is always required when a battery is installed. However, this drain was measured at an inconsequential level (i.e. several years before it would drain a battery). 

Unfortunately, there is no way to physically lock out the light, as screw threads are not anodized. There is however a way to temporarily lock out the switch using a button-press sequence. I recommend you use it, as the protruding switch will likely be prone to accidental activation.

The low voltage warning only works with RCR (16340). The cell has to be charged >3.3V when first installed, or the circuit will assume it is a CR123A and not respond (this is understandable - otherwise, you would experience abnormal early warnings on primary CR123A). In my testing, the indicator activated around ~3.0-3.1V (resting voltage), by which point output had already dropped to ~10% of initial levels. The indicator is thus a warning of imminent triggering of the protection circuit (on protected cells), or a warning to shut-down unprotected cells immediately.

The lanyard attachment ring in the tail seems to hold fairly well when fully screwed in. But you should watch to make sure it doesn't loosen up if you plan to use it with the lanyard (i.e., once it loosens, it can be unscrewed fairly easily).

I am not sure what final packaging will include, but there was no clip bundled with my sample - and I don't see any obvious attachment points for one.

*Preliminary Observations*

This is the second light I've reviewed with the new "Smart Switch" from Sunwayman, and it continues to perform well.

There has been one UI addition since the T60CS model – the C10R now features a momentary mode (i.e. press and hold the switch from Off). :thumbsup: Of course, that means you will have to be quick of the press-release (i.e. "click") to activate the constant output modes from Off. As with all electronic switches that offer both momentary-on and click-on, it may take you a little while to get used to the exact timings.

The physical build is solid, with the trademark attractive natural anodizing finish from Sunwayman. I am not sure why they dropped the screw thread anodizing though (i.e., you can no longer physically lock out the light, but there is an electronic switch lock you can apply). Given the protruding switch design, I would have liked to see a physical lock-out. :shrug: The light also features a distinctive lanyard ring holder/tripod mount in the base, but a pocket clip of some sort would have been nice. 

Performance wise, there is a lot in common here with the M11R, another 1xCR123A/RCR, defined-output light from Sunwayman. In fact, the output and regulation pattern on Hi is exactly the same between these two models, on either battery type. But the C10R has a more typical distribution of Lo/Med/Hi modes (see the comparison output table above for details).

It also has a bit of different beam pattern, due to the larger head and smooth reflector on the C10R. Not to worry, it is still quite "floody" overall, consistent with the broad hotspot produced by the XM-L emitter. Main difference is wider spillbeam on the C10R, and the reduced number of beam rings (i.e., it reminds me of some of the XM-L-based Zebralights).

The C10R is certainly another option to consider in the defined-output 1xCR123A/RCR class of light. If you want to know how the performance directly compares to the Sunwayman M11R and V11R, please check the tables and runtimes earlier in the review. :wave: 

----

C10R was supplied by Sunwayman for review.


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## JeffN (Jul 17, 2012)

Typically great review, selfbuilt -- thanks!

Was looking to add this light to the collection, but H/M/L sequence is a knockout.


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## Dubois (Jul 17, 2012)

Nice review, Selfbuilt, as per usual - thank you.

I'm looking forward to getting my giveaway :naughty:. Slightly surprised that the threads aren't anodised, it makes it a bit of a faff to use the electronic lock out.

One HK retailer's site shows that there is no clip included, just the lanyard and holster.


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## peterharvey73 (Jul 17, 2012)

Can I confirm that the reflector is SMO?
The specs seem to say that it is an OP reflector?

So with a shallower, but bigger diameter SMO reflector, the C10R's wall shots see: the bigger reflector leading to a smaller but more intense hotspot over the M11R, but the shallower reflector leading to a wider spill, and that wider spill is dimmer.
However the C10R doesn't seem to have any dirty rings, which are more prominent on both the M11R and V11R.
Could the SMO reflector design also be causing a brighter hotspot, yet a rather dim spill?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 17, 2012)

peterharvey73 said:


> Can I confirm that the reflector is SMO?
> The specs seem to say that it is an OP reflector?


Yes, that is an inconsistency. But as you can see in the pics, it is definitely smooth on my sample. It may be the specs aren't final yet - I will check with SWM to see what they say.



> However the C10R doesn't seem to have any dirty rings, which are more prominent on both the M11R and V11R. Could the SMO reflector design also be causing a brighter hotspot, yet a rather dim spill?


I doubt it has to do with the SMO - it's really a question of the reflector shape. The smaller heads of the M11R/V11R are a hold over from the earlier M10R/V10A, which were originally XP-G-based (actually, the original M10R was XR-E ). The original reflector design was better suited to small die emitters, and just adapted for XM-L.

The C10R looks to have a new design optimized for the XM-L emitter.


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## AILL (Jul 18, 2012)

Regarding the battery warning: the sample I could play with worked. 2 short flashes when installing a RCR battery, red light at 3,3V current.

Thank You for the review anyway!

Andreas


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## Swede74 (Jul 18, 2012)

Thank you for another inspiring review.

Does disconnecting the battery reset the electronic lock-out? I hope it does, as it would make the light more foolproof.





I think the tail end design opens for new possibilities: a nice accessory would be a watertight cylinder that can be screwed onto the light when the lanyard attachment ring is removed; big enough to hold either a spare cell or maybe some matches, needle and thread and a USB flash drive.


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## orbital (Jul 18, 2012)

selfbuilt said:


> ..
> 
> 
> 
> ...



+

Would an o-ring tucked underneath the lanyard screw help it from loosening on its own?

...btw..How's the heat in Canada??


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## selfbuilt (Jul 18, 2012)

AILL said:


> Regarding the battery warning: the sample I could play with worked. 2 short flashes when installing a RCR battery, red light at 3,3V current.


Yes, I think the problem was I didn't notice the red light in time on my standard run with protected RCR. When I tried a nearly depleted cell and observed closely, I didn't see any warning flashes - but I also didn't see the 2 short flashes when installing.

Checking with SWM, they confirm the 2 flashes indicates that the circuit is monitoring the battery. But if the RCR is below 3.3V when it goes in, the circuit just assumes it is a CR123A and ignores it. This makes sense, as it is the way the circuit avoid constant flashing on CR123A. I have updated the review with this information.

I am also currently testing a non-protected IMR cell (3.8V to start, 2 flashes), and will carefully look for the red flashes and measure the resulting resting voltage when I see them.



Swede74 said:


> Does disconnecting the battery reset the electronic lock-out? I hope it does, as it would make the light more foolproof.


Yes, changing the battery resets the lock-out as you would expect (i.e., the lockout is only maintained while some power is being drawn).



orbital said:


> Would an o-ring tucked underneath the lanyard screw help it from loosening on its own?
> ...btw..How's the heat in Canada??


Maybe, but it doesn't really seem to be necessary - with the screw fully tightened, it is pretty stable. It is just once you start to loosen it that it spins very freely.

And yes, it has been a bit balmy around here lately. Looking forward to the "cool" 29C high expected today ...


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## selfbuilt (Jul 18, 2012)

Update: I've re-tested the battery indicator, and it does work.

On an unprotected IMR cell, the indicator lit up a constant red starting at ~3.12V resting voltage on the cell. On a protected RCR, the indicator lit up at ~3.02V resting voltage. 

But a couple of things to note - the reason I hadn't noticed it before on the protected run is the light turned off within about 3-4 secs of the indicator coming on (i.e., the protection circuit was tripped). This is not much of an advance warning.

Secondly, by the time this voltage level is reached, the light has already dimmed to ~10% of initial output. So, frankly, you will already be well aware that the battery is nearly exhausted by the time the indicator comes on. It is really more of an indicator to let you know the protection circuit is about to trip, or that you should shut-down down to preserve an unprotected cell. :wave:


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## Colonel Sanders (Jul 18, 2012)

*"The body tube is wide enough to take all primary CR123A and 16340 (RCR) Li-ion rechargeables, but 18350 is too wide to fit."*

My wallet thanks them. Wonder when more of the manufacturers are going to wake up and notice that some of us are no longer purchasing lights that can't take 18350s? The performance advantage over 16340s is just too great to ignore. No 18350s = deal breaker for me nowadays.


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## phips (Jul 18, 2012)

Eagletac's D25 Clicky series has set a pretty high bar concerning efficiency, cost and size.
I wonder how Sunwayman thinks this is a competitive product.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 18, 2012)

Colonel Sanders said:


> My wallet thanks them. Wonder when more of the manufacturers are going to wake up and notice that some of us are no longer purchasing lights that can't take 18350s? The performance advantage over 16340s is just too great to ignore. No 18350s = deal breaker for me nowadays.


You're welcome. This is actually the first review where I have commented on 18350. I have noticed increasing interest in this battery size lately, so I thought I would pass along a direct observation (i.e., given the larger size of the C10R, you might be wondering). But to be fair, very few RCR-sized lights will take the fatter cells (so far).



phips said:


> Eagletac's D25 Clicky series has set a pretty high bar concerning efficiency, cost and size.
> I wonder how Sunwayman thinks this is a competitive product.


To be fair, the Sunwayman light fully supports all defined output levels on both RCR and CR123A (the D25C looses all medium modes) - there is an efficiency cost to that broader voltage support. The C10R also uses a head-mounted electronic switch - again incurring an efficiency hit over a traditional clicky. Finally, there is a low-voltage sensor, which again should have at least some minor drain. Taking all those aspects into account, the output/runtime efficiency seems quite reasonable (and consistent with current-control).

As always, it comes down to what feature set matters to the end user. But to facilitate that comparison, I've added the D25C XM-L form size measures and beamshots to the main review.


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## AILL (Jul 18, 2012)

Colonel Sanders said:


> No 18350s = deal breaker for me nowadays.



Colonel Sanders,

the battery compartment of the C10R has really thick walls. I assume it will be no problem to bore them out to make 18350 fit. The head does already fit 18350.
Inside anodisation of course will be destroyed. But here I don't see any issues.
Maybe SWM takes this as a chance to improve the next series.

Andreas


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## Colonel Sanders (Jul 19, 2012)

Selfbuilt, I really appreciate your commenting on whether this light takes 18350s. It's something I find myself wondering every time a new 16340 EDC comes out. VERY nice review as always! :thanks:

And I hope I don't come across to harsh about lights not taking 18350s...it certainly is a rare thing that they do. There was much to like from the looks of this light so I was really hoping that this light might take them. It certainly looked fat enough that it might.

I won't be going through the trouble of boring this light. If someone else does and offers it for sale then perhaps I'll bite. And if this light offered some serious performance (I've really grown accustomed to some XM-L lights blasting out 500-750L even in EDC size) then it would be worth the hassle to bore it.

This is a nice looking light with some neat features.  Make it 18350able, *GIVE IT A REALLY LOW MOONLIGHT SETTING* (come on folks...gotta have the moonlight mode right these days!), and perhaps a "turbo" mode would make it all the more better. :thumbsup:


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## selfbuilt (Jul 19, 2012)

AILL said:


> the battery compartment of the C10R has really thick walls. I assume it will be no problem to bore them out to make 18350 fit. The head does already fit 18350.





Colonel Sanders said:


> I won't be going through the trouble of boring this light. If someone else does and offers it for sale then perhaps I'll bite.


Hmmm, not too sure how easy that would be. I measured the internal diameter of the C10R as 16.7mm (21.3mm external at the widest outer screw threads, ~20.9mm external at the inner thread groove). Given that my AW 18350s are at least 18.4mm at their widest point, you would need to shave off nearly 2 full mm (to give yourself a bit of margin). 

Even if you only bored to 18.5mm, that would reduce wall thickness to 1.4mm at the thickest part of the thread, and <1.2mm at at the inner part of the thread. In theory, that should still be strong enough, but might be tricky to actually do the boring.




> *GIVE IT A REALLY LOW MOONLIGHT SETTING* (come on folks...gotta have the moonlight mode right these days!)


No argument on the moonlight mode, it's definitely something I like to see on all my EDC/pocket-sized lights.


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## frosty (Jul 26, 2012)

Another great review. Will you also be testing its big brother the C20C?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 26, 2012)

frosty said:


> Another great review. Will you also be testing its big brother the C20C?


Yes, currently testing it now. Review will likely be up next week some time.


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## frosty (Jul 26, 2012)

Excellent, I'm looking forward to that one.


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## Ualnosaj (Jul 27, 2012)

AILL said:


> Colonel Sanders,
> 
> the battery compartment of the C10R has really thick walls. I assume it will be no problem to bore them out to make 18350 fit. The head does already fit 18350.
> Inside anodisation of course will be destroyed. But here I don't see any issues.
> ...



At that point wouldn't the C20C be a better option? It really is only marginally larger.



________________
Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse the brevity of this message.


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## bebekhijau (Oct 21, 2012)

Hi, i just buy C10R but the engraving said 'ESPRESSO' instead 'TORPEDO'...
what is the difference ?


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## Eric242 (Oct 22, 2012)

The engraving 

Eric


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## bebekhijau (Oct 23, 2012)

lets hope so.... 



Eric242 said:


> The engraving
> 
> Eric


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## Eric242 (Oct 23, 2012)

No need to hope, it´s fact. If you search the marketplace you´ll find a thread that reveals the problem with the name Torpedo, that was already taken for another flashlight.

Eric


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## GehenSienachlinks (Nov 20, 2012)

Selfbuilt which you think has better beam , sunwayman c10r or sunwayman m11r ? From your pictures is looks like the c10r does not have a good flood compared to m11r . Also I don't know if your chart is wrong with cr123 med but according to sunwayman both light should have 10h on med but c10r only has 5h .


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## selfbuilt (Nov 20, 2012)

GehenSienachlinks said:


> Selfbuilt which you think has better beam , sunwayman c10r or sunwayman m11r ? From your pictures is looks like the c10r does not have a good flood compared to m11r . Also I don't know if your chart is wrong with cr123 med but according to sunwayman both light should have 10h on med but c10r only has 5h .


Well, the C10|R has a wider spill and a more sharply defined hotspot than the M11R (for equivalent overall output). The M11R has a brighter corona, so this provides a more even beam at close range (i.e., it is slightly less focused than the C10R).

As for the chart, those are the actual runtimes observed on the same batch of batteries. The C10R is brighter than the M11R, hence the shorter runtime on my sample.


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## daberti (Jan 11, 2013)

Astounding review Selfbuilt, as always 
May I ask you if you've some output AND/OR runtime figures with AW's IMR?

Thanks again


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## selfbuilt (Jan 11, 2013)

daberti said:


> Astounding review Selfbuilt, as always
> May I ask you if you've some output AND/OR runtime figures with AW's IMR?


No, I typically only do IMR tests on very heavily-driven lights (where the discharge rate would seem to exceed the 2C specs for standard ICR chemistry). There's no real need to use IMR in the C10R, since it is not heavily-driven on max.

But in the few cases where I've done both AW protected ICR and AW IMR, I typically find one of two outcomes:


For direct-drive-like discharge patterns, the IMR cell usually starts out a bit brighter than the ICR cell, but decays more rapidly
For flat-regulated discharge patterns, the IMR cell usually has the exact same regulated brightness, and is able to maintain the regulated state slightly longer than ICR.
Not sure which would be most applicable here, as the C10R isn't completely flat-regulated, but I expect the second outcome is most likely (i.e., I wouldn't expect a higher output on IMR).


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## daberti (Jan 11, 2013)

I've done some comparative test (fully charged AW cells to red led blinking): on max level both chemistries perform the same. On Medium RCR123 had a great advantage 2:40' against 1:58' of the IMR.
I've nothing to complain about C10R as far as regulation on rechargeables is concerned when at max power.
Yet IMHO regulation at Medium is ...welll...uhm...:thumbsdow

This flashlight adds something to the 1x123 form factor: real support for RCR/IMR chemistries (yet no auto low voltage cutoff), very good regulation at max on every chemistry, very good beam (no artifacts). Yet no superlow setting. A lost chance


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## T45 (Jul 11, 2013)

Just bought a C10R from Going Gear with their Independence Day Sale. The UI is a little tricky to get used to. Odd thing: The momentary is HIGH ONLY. I have mine set with constant on mode as low, but when the momentary is used, it's always comes on in HIGH, no matter what level I left it in. As pointed out in the previous posts, the low could be lower. I don't use re-chargeables so the 18350 issue is not a concern for me. Overall I like this little light! It feels solid in the hand. I like that tail ring even. May have to order another one so I can use my own lanyard design. I thought the mirror finish instead of an OP for the reflector would be detrimental, but in the 2 days I have had this little nugget of a light, I have no complaints about that. Changed my EDC from an Eagletac D25A2 and Preon 2 to the C10R and a Foursevens Mini 123. Now that's easy carrying!


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## stienke (Jul 12, 2013)

My C10R rides with me in my glovebox and get little use every month , it's modded by Vinh with a Neutral XM-L2 mounted on copper , it's brighter as standard and has a nice tint.
Because it's a back up light I use only CR123 batteries so it doesn't matter it can't take 18350 cells!


GJR


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## T45 (Jul 15, 2013)




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## T45 (Jul 17, 2013)

I have been EDCing my new Sunwayman C10R for the last few days and the one thing that has been something of a quandary is...what to do about that UNC 1/4"-20 hole in the end. I noticed it was starting to pick up dust and lint from riding in my pocket. :thinking: Clearly unacceptable. I thought about using the lanyard attachment, but I just know the one time I am not monitoring it closely, my new light will come loose and all I will be left with, will be some dark colored paracord. No Bueno. So after scrolling through dozens of pages on google looking for "camara attachment" and "tripod attachment", I finally see EXACTLY what I had in mind. A SET SCREW! Turns out my local Ace Hardware has the exact size I needed, 1/4"-20 x 1/4" Length. At 53 cents each, I splurged and bought 2 I tried the ones with the hex key end, but once they were installed, not one sat flush with the end. Also, getting them back out was troublesome WITHOUT a hex key. So Slotted was the way to go. I can use my fingernail or a coin or anything with a thin edge to screw it in or out, and with a tiny bit of filing, it sits just below flush so my C10R still has all the tail standing capability I like. So here is my new customized C10R....






Hmmm...I wonder if I could upgrade the LED to a Nichia 219? Vinhnyguen does do some excellent customizing.


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## fiveform (Jan 24, 2014)

Well, I just received mine at the very nice price of $37 from Amazon and thus far I'm impressed. I find that if you set the light to medium, then when you turn it off it comes back on at the same. Then, if you scroll through levels, low is next. HML was a none issue for me with this torch...


JeffN said:


> Typically great review, selfbuilt -- thanks!
> 
> Was looking to add this light to the collection, but H/M/L sequence is a knockout.


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## fiveform (Jan 24, 2014)

Spell "camara" as "camera" and you'll get more hits on "camera attachment..." 


T45 said:


> I have been EDCing my new Sunwayman C10R for the last few days and the one thing that has been something of a quandary is...what to do about that UNC 1/4"-20 hole in the end. I noticed it was starting to pick up dust and lint from riding in my pocket. :thinking: Clearly unacceptable. I thought about using the lanyard attachment, but I just know the one time I am not monitoring it closely, my new light will come loose and all I will be left with, will be some dark colored paracord. No Bueno. So after scrolling through dozens of pages on google looking for "camara attachment" and "tripod attachment", I finally see EXACTLY what I had in mind. A SET SCREW! Turns out my local Ace Hardware has the exact size I needed, 1/4"-20 x 1/4" Length. At 53 cents each, I splurged and bought 2 I tried the ones with the hex key end, but once they were installed, not one sat flush with the end. Also, getting them back out was troublesome WITHOUT a hex key. So Slotted was the way to go. I can use my fingernail or a coin or anything with a thin edge to screw it in or out, and with a tiny bit of filing, it sits just below flush so my C10R still has all the tail standing capability I like. So here is my new customized C10R....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## T45 (May 25, 2014)

Spell check failed me again! :mecry:


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