# Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100



## ernsanada (Dec 11, 2007)

I just received the Lumapower Avenger from Lumapower CPFMP 

You can also order the Avenger at Battery Junction

Shipping took around 4 - 5 days.

The fit is excellent. Made of 6061 Aluminum

The Type III Hard Anodize has a chip in it.

Uses Rebel 100 Led

Voltage : 0.8V to 4.2V.

2 Stage light, full twist bezel high, turn counterclockwise 1/2 turn for low. Twisting action is hard on my light.

Comes with a rear reverse clickie. My switch doesn't seem to work. 

Received this email from Ricky, The second shipment with 2 pcs of contact-stick for different length of AAA battery. maybe this will solve my problem of the rear clickie not working.

Has GID o-ring behind the lens and the rear rubber cover is GID.






















Comes with 2 lanyards (neck & wrist), pocket clip, o-rings, tweezer and holster.





























































Rebel 100 Led






Rear shot of Rebel 100 module
















Inside view of the reverse rear clickie.
































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This is how you install the rear clickie.

Unscrew the rear cap.











This what the back looks like.






Use the supplied tweezers and insert in the 2 shallow holes.






Unscrew the plug. Once you break the torque you can unscrew the plug by hand.











You can install the pocket clip if you want or leave the clip off. If you decide to install the clip there are 2 small cut-outs where the clip goes.






Screw on the rear clickie. (I left the clip out).







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Size comparisons.

Left to right, Lumapower Avenger, Tiablo A1, Fenix LOD CE Q2






Left to right, Lumapower Avenger, Tiablo A1, Fenix LOD CE Q2






Left to right, Lumapower Avenger, Tiablo A1, Fenix LOD CE Q2







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I also took lux readings of the lights shown above. These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using Energizer Nimh AAA Rechargeable Batteries, 850mAh which were fully charged.






Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100 - 240 lux @ 1 meter

Tiablo A1 Rebel 100 - 430 lux @ 1 meter

Fenix LOD Q2 - 240 lux @ 1 meter


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Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100 @ 1 meter






Tiablo A1 Rebel 100 @ 1 meter






Fenix LOD Q2 @ 1 meter






Left, Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100. Right, Tiablo A1 Rebel 100 @ 1 meter






Left, Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100. Right, Fenix LOD Q2 @ 1 meter






Left, Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100. Right, Tiablo A1 Rebel 100 @ 1 meter Stepped down exposure






Left, Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100. Right, Fenix LOD Q2 @ 1 meter Stepped down exposure


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## selfbuilt (Dec 11, 2007)

Wow, nice job - great pics!  :thumbsup:

A pity your clicky is not working, it's one of the more interesting aspects of the light. Sure is a tall sucker too ...

Thanks for the review! :twothumbs


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## phatalbert (Dec 11, 2007)

Amazing review! Thanks a ton for the fine work, this really helps to hone my christmas wishes!


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## bray (Dec 11, 2007)

great looking light, thanks for the review, question, is there no spring in the tail?


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## ernsanada (Dec 11, 2007)

bray said:


> great looking light, thanks for the review, question, is there no spring in the tail?




No spring in the tail.

This is used as a "spacer" for the batteries. Located behind the Rebel Module.

The Lumapower F1 also used this behind it's module.


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## bray (Dec 11, 2007)

does the clicky not work because its not making contact with the battery because the "contact stick" isnt long enough?


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## ernsanada (Dec 11, 2007)

bray said:


> does the clicky not work because its not making contact with the battery because the "contact stick" isnt long enough?




It seem the battery is long enough. I have to use the light like a twisty. Once I turn the bezel to make the light to full bright, I can turn the light almost 1/2 more turn where the bezel won't screw anymore, no threads showing.


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## phatalbert (Dec 11, 2007)

This may be a dumb sounding question but does the avenger "feel" or "seem" significantly larger in normal use and handling than: the Arc aaa, the Fenix LOD? 
I loved the jet-u for it's size (not so much for functionality and reliability) and this light seems near perfect for me were it not for the fact that it is somewhat portly


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## ernsanada (Dec 11, 2007)

phatalbert said:


> This may be a dumb sounding question but does the avenger "feel" or "seem" significantly larger in normal use and handling than: the Arc aaa, the Fenix LOD?
> I loved the jet-u for it's size (not so much for functionality and reliability) and this light seems near perfect for me were it not for the fact that it is somewhat portly



I don't have an Arc AAA, only a Fenix LOD.

With the rear clickie on the Avenger it does feel significantly larger. Without the rear clickie it feels close to the LOD size and weight wise. The Avenger is 6.47mm or .255" longer.


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## swxb12 (Dec 11, 2007)

You know, I've been needing a new pair of tweezers and a holster. If they happen to come with a free light... :devil:

Thanks Ernsanada!


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## Flic (Dec 11, 2007)

Excellent (as usual) and useful review. Thanks ersanada! I'm a big LumaPower fan. I have three MRV's and additional parts in transit. When I saw the Avenger I was really excited. It looked great (much better looking to me than the A1) and the flexibility was a big selling point. Now that I read real life experiences and see it compared to it's main competitors I very much doubt it will replace, or even join my Rebel 80 LOD / LOD CE Q2, or even my luch loved L0P-SE. 

Thanks for being on the "bleeding edge". You and a few select other members have helped fill the void left from Quickbeam's well deserved hiatus (at least I hope it is just a hiatus).


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## Federal LG (Dec 11, 2007)

Woo-hoo!

Thanks for the review and pics, Ernsanada! :twothumbs

Greetings from Brasil!


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## Illumination (Dec 12, 2007)

Thanks for the review!

I thought it was interesting that Tiablo A1 allows only NiMH and Alkaline while Lumapower Avenger allows those plus 10440...

I suspected that the A1 on Alkalines or NiMH would be brighter than the Avenger on the same...and now its demonstrated by Ersanada.

I also suspect top brightness on the Avenger (using LiIon) should be brighter than the A1 using NiMH or Alkaline - but who wants to use unregulated LiIons unless necessary!

I was really excited about the Avenger...now I'm on the fence.


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## ernsanada (Dec 12, 2007)

I have 10440's but I can't get it to work in the Avenger.


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## Lite_me (Dec 12, 2007)

:thinking: This is not good. Wonder what the problem is? I'm gonna have to hold off for a bit. I've been patiently waiting for this one.  Let us know if you find out what the problem was cause I've been very interested in this light. It looks like it'd be a good one to have.


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## ernsanada (Dec 12, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I have 10440's but I can't get it to work in the Avenger.



Must be my battery. Somebody else said they could run a 10440 in their light.


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## lumapower (Dec 12, 2007)

Hi ernsanada,

Thank you very much for excellent review, the 2nd package of contact-stick can resolve battery problems with clicky switch.

Best regards,

Ricky - Lumapower CS


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## iSleep (Dec 12, 2007)

Great review ~ :thumbsup:

Now all I need is the light in my hands


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## Thujone (Dec 12, 2007)

I can't remember, was it ever mentioned whether the avenger had protection built in for 10440s?


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## boonsht (Dec 12, 2007)

Great review as always, Ernsanada! 

Do you think it's just as long as a L1D CE?


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## ernsanada (Dec 12, 2007)

This is the lanyard clip. It fits in the same spot as the pocket clip.


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## ernsanada (Dec 12, 2007)

boonsht said:


> Great review as always, Ernsanada!
> 
> Do you think it's just as long as a L1D CE?



This is the Avenger without the rear clickie.

Left, Lumapower Avenger. Right, Fenix L1D CE


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## boonsht (Dec 12, 2007)

Thanks for the quick answer. You're awesome, Ernsanada! :thumbsup:


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## mchlwise (Dec 12, 2007)

Excellent review (as always). Thanks. :thumbsup:


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## TodToh (Dec 12, 2007)

OK I dont want to make a conflict.
But it seems that LumaPower lose their style and try to compete
to fenix class .


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## patycake57 (Dec 12, 2007)

Thanks for the great review. The lack of a negative terminal battery spring is a deal killer for me. Although this one doesn't look like it would dent the battery, I've had too many negative experiences to violate my personal rule.


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## Dobbler (Dec 13, 2007)

patycake57 said:


> Thanks for the great review. The lack of a negative terminal battery spring is a deal killer for me. Although this one doesn't look like it would dent the battery, I've had too many negative experiences to violate my personal rule.



Like JetBeam?

My Avenger is on the way so I hope the lack of a spring isn't a big deal.


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## EntropyQ3 (Dec 13, 2007)

Thujone said:


> I can't remember, was it ever mentioned whether the avenger had protection built in for 10440s?


Depends on what you mean. The avenger appears to sport a buck/boost regulator, meaning that you are protected against running too much current through the 10440 cells, in contrast to other well known competitors. 
This is good.
However, 10440 cells, due to their tiny size, aren't protected from over discharging, and from Lumapowers informational material, it doesn't seem as if the avenger helps you in that respect. Which would have been neat and proper since they do promote the use of 10440 cells in their material.

That said, the Avenger would still be the AAA light to have if you want to try powering a small light with 10440s for higher light intensity and decent runtimes. Since I own the Fenix LODce and the Fenix LODce Q4, I will be very interested in comparing the lights once I get my (already shipped) Lumapower. Thanks ernsanada for your comparison work - I hadn't noticed the lack of spring in the back end in my reading of their material. 

(But I will not test the Fenixes with the 10440. To my mind that combination is just too far out there - the temptation of running the batteries at unhealthy currents added to the risk of overdischarging them if you're not vigilant is too much for me. I will try running 10440s in the Lumapower however. For some application areas, where you know that you can exchange the LiIons before running out of juice, LiIons are attractive. These small lights are all about small size and light weight, ease of use, practical carrying, reliability (since they are the one light you are most likely to have on hand if used as EDC), and to some extent light output (since you don't know just how you will want to use an EDC). Using 10440s will have its benefits and drawbacks.)


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## meesterpaul (Dec 14, 2007)

It seems that the clip and the lanyard clip could have been merged into one unit. If the clip came out of the body with a full turn, making a loop, before continuing on to it's clip configuration then there would be something to attach to. I may try this where I used to keep a twist pen, on my pocket edge. Remarkably I never lost the pen even though it was there when I would hop on my motorcycle or bike. If the Avenger clip is "right" it might work there and be handier even than on a keychain.
I'll find out any day now. (if the clip doesn't hold well, then look around the Philly area. There may be an Avenger laying around somewhere.


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## Oddjob (Dec 14, 2007)

I got mine today and I must have received a bum unit. It had some intermittent problems where the low would not activate or I would tighten it and it would turn off from high but tighten it a bit further and it would turn on again. The foam ring in the head came off as well. I contacted Ricky and he said I could return it. It seemed like a nice little light but since I've had some bad luck with mutilevel 1AAA lights recently (lost my LF2 and now this) I'll probably stick to my AA and CR123 lights.


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## lumapower (Dec 14, 2007)

Hi Oddjob,

Refer to your case, we do it update as : http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showpost.php?p=2097736&postcount=132

Thanks for supporting,

Best regards,

Ricky - Lumapower CS


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## gunga (Dec 14, 2007)

Oh so THAT's what a contact stick is.

I thought it was some adhesive thing, but this makes more sense. Looking forward to trying out my Avenger when it comes Ricky.

I like AAA lights (my EDC) but wouldn't mind something a bit simpler and tougher than the usual (Fenix L0D CE, Liteflux LF2) and more versatle than the classic 1 modes (Arc, Fenix E0).

This could be a nice compromise (tho I still prefer 3 levels).


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## MiniLux (Dec 14, 2007)

Got my Avenger today and checked it on Eneloop/Energizer Lithium L92/10440. Worked.

Major problem: although the clicky itself does work, it won't light up the Avenger!

After a first check it appears as if the 'contact stick' of the clicky passing inside the Avenger isn't long enough, so it doesn't touch the negative side of the battery.
So this really *can't* work, and new rubber stoppers won't solve that problem 

As for the 10440s: the blue Ultrafire ones don't work well as the positive node of these is very short/flat, so you have to tighten the Avenger's head pretty hard to get to turbo mode (there's where the rubber stoppers may help).

I tried some 10440s from Soshine, and these do work flawlessly because of a longer positive node.

Edit:
Took some quick measurements with DX Lightmeter (@ 1m):
Avenger on Turbo: 732 lux (10440)
Fenix LOD-Q4 on high: 580 Lux (Lithium L92)
Kai KD SSC-U AAA: 450 Lux (Eneloop)
Fenix T1 on high: 7200 Lux (2xCR123 primaries)


All in all, somewhat disappointing as my main interest into the Avenger was the clicky


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## gunga (Dec 14, 2007)

If you read the updates, you will be getting a longer contact stick so that the clicky will work.

Should arrive in a few days.


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## MiniLux (Dec 14, 2007)

Yes, should do 

Sorry, I followed Ricky's link before posting and that did only point to the rubber stopper update.

Nonetheless I'm surprised that this kind of engineering error can occur as the light has certainly been thoroughly tested with clicky....


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## gunga (Dec 14, 2007)

I agree. Lumapower does have nice manufacturing quality, but this is an odd oversight.


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## Derek Dean (Dec 14, 2007)

Well.... as is often the case with a new light, there seem to be a few glitches.... but overall I'm impressed with how the folks at Lumapower are dealing with them, and I'm certainly looking forward to this little light, as I've got a feeling that once these issues are resolved this will end up being a nice little pocket powerhouse of a light.


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## ernsanada (Dec 14, 2007)

I had to use the longer contact pin but I can't use the clip or the lanyard clip to make the reverse clickie work. Anybody else have this problem?


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## uh1c (Dec 15, 2007)

As always, excellent pictures!

Received mine today.
Build is tank-like. Bigger than L0D-CE and A1. 

Edited:
Knurling makes slip resistant tape unnecessary.

It is a keeper; playing with it last night, I couldn't believe it was so dim; so I tried other batteries: turns out I was the dim one; the 2 batteries I tried were both depleted (don't ask), an alkaline and a lithium primary from China.

FWIW, I now feel this is a _much_ better light than I originally wrote about. My apologies to any who bothered listening to me. 

This would make a great Christmas present, as would the Tiablo A1 and F0D-CE.


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## Derek Dean (Dec 16, 2007)

uh1c said:


> As always, excellent pictures!
> Received mine today.
> Build is tank-like. Bigger than L0D-CE and A1. Not as bright as either.
> 
> I will be keeping it but it goes into my collection; I won't carry it: too big, not bright enough. YMMV.


What battery are you using? It was obvious that with alkaline or NiMh cells it would only achieve around 55 lumens..... but it should be getting much more with a 10440 lithium-ion.


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## Rzr800 (Dec 16, 2007)

uh1c said:


> "..Build is tank-like. Bigger than L0D-CE and A1. Not as bright as either. I will be keeping it but it goes into my collection; I won't carry it: too big, not bright enough. YMMV.


 
Thanks for the review; this is what I was hoping that you would find after my recent (uninformed) knee-jerk gamble on the A1 out at the same time.


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## uh1c (Dec 16, 2007)

I edited my post to reflect new data. see above. my bad.
Rzr800: You _did _make a great choice.
Derek Dean: Sorry, I have no 10440s.


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## ernsanada (Dec 16, 2007)

ernsanada said:


> I had to use the longer contact pin but I can't use the clip or the lanyard clip to make the reverse clickie work. Anybody else have this problem?



I removed the rubber spacer (doughnut) and now my Avenger can use the clip with the reverse clickie.

I can also use the AW Unprotected 10440. Charging right now for lux readings.


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## ernsanada (Dec 16, 2007)

Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100 Rechargeable Nimh - 240 lux @ 1 meter

Lumapower Avenger Rebel 100 Unprotected 10440 - 450 lux @ 1 meter


A great improvement with the Unprotected 10440!


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## ernsanada (Dec 16, 2007)

These are outdoor beam shots taken at 24'.

All lights are using fully charged Nimh and 10440 Batteries.


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Tiablo A1 Nimh @ 24'







Avenger Rebel 100 Nimh @ 24'






Fenix LOD Q2 Nimh @ 24'






Avenger Rebel 100 10440 @ 24'






Fenix LOD Q2 10440 @ 24'


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## sorgun (Dec 17, 2007)

:wave: Thank you for the pictures. I'm waiting for my Avenger that still is somewhere in the mailstream.


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## mudman cj (Dec 17, 2007)

I've had mine for a few days now, and since it didn't come with the interchangeable clicky switch battery contact sticks, I couldn't use the switch until today when they came as well. The contact sticks are just aluminum posts that are assembled into the switch and make contact with the battery cathode.

Now that it's all here I want to share my impressions. First of all, I also EDC an Arc AAA P-DS and a KD SSC-U AAA (buckle light). I thought the Avenger would add nicely to the capabilities of these lights because it has:
-two levels for extended runtime capability with optional greater output
-a Rebel 100 with high efficiency and warm tint with great color rendition
-many configuration options

I used it for the first few days as a twisty, and while I like the slightly shorter length of this configuration, I found that it requires about 1 and 1/4 turns to go from off to high, and this was more than I cared for. I have now converted it to a clicky using the longest of the three available contact sticks. Mine works with the lanyard ring installed when using an Eneloop battery. I did have to work the ring down tight against the body of the light before the tailcap would go all the way on and make contact. Now I like the light even better because I only have to give it a slight twist to go from low to high and back.

When I was using it as a twisty, the threaded contact stick lost contact with the battery after some use, and so I added a little Teflon tape around the threads for added grip, and a piece of foam behind the threaded stick to prevent the threads from moving. This was still working well when I converted it over to a clicky.

I find the low setting to be just right for conserving battery power and providing enough light to get around the house at night. It is roughly comparable to the Arc in usefulness with respect to the amount of light it puts out. On high, it is comparable to the KD SSC-U AAA in the hotspot, but the KD puts out more light in the spill and has a more gradual corona typical of a Seoul LED. I prefer the tint of the Rebel 100 to either of these other lights. And a huge plus for this light in my book is that it does not flicker on low due to PWM! That is the main reason I have not purchased a Fenix LOD and why I sold my Jetbeam and my Rexlight.

I probably won't use this light with Li-ion cells because I didn't want the brightest AAA light runtime be damned, at least not without a low (you know - a low low) option. The main advantage I think this light has over the KD SSC-U AAA and the Tiablo is the low setting for conserving battery life. Too many times now I have gone to use my KD SSC-U AAA and the battery went dead right away when I needed it.

Sure, it's big for a AAA light; especially with the clicky tail configuration. For that reason, it will not go on my keychain. The Arc AAA will remain there (until one day when it is replaced by a Millermods Cree version :naughty. The other weakness of the Avenger is a lack of an O-ring seal at the tailcap threads. It appears that the head is sealed though, so it would probably survive a dunking, though I don't want to find out. Overall, I am very pleased with this light. :thumbsup:


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## SlotCAR (Dec 17, 2007)

Did the new contact sticks make your clicky switch work?
Mine did not work with either eneloops or 10440's with either of the two contact sticks.

I'll tear it apart again and see if I installed it incorrectly later.

*- SlotCAR*


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## ernsanada (Dec 17, 2007)

SlotCAR said:


> Did the new contact sticks make your clicky switch work?
> Mine did not work with either eneloops or 10440's with either of the two contact sticks.
> 
> I'll tear it apart again and see if I installed it incorrectly later.
> ...



I did install one of the longer "sticks".

The sticks would only work without the clips installed. If I put either clip in the clickie would not work.

Once I removed the rubber spacer on the Rebel Module the light worked with the clips installed.

This is the rubber spacer I'm talking about.






This is the "sticks" mudman cj is has pointed out.


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## mudman cj (Dec 17, 2007)

Yes, my clicky switch works with the longest of the three sticks _without_ having to remove the rubber spacer and_ with_ the clips installed. I think the key is having the clip worked down all the way against the body.


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## SlotCAR (Dec 17, 2007)

Thanks ...

I just got mine working as well.

It seems that I had a small shaving of aluminum that touched the batteries negative pole. I blew out the shaving and it works now as designed, with the washer and clip installed.

I do love the clicky ...

*- SlotCAR*


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## Dobbler (Dec 17, 2007)

Mine will run on AW 10440 but only on high (not turbo) with the longest contact stick. It's not any brighter than on a NiMH. I'm quite disappointed as I was looking for a rugged alternative to my L0D-CE.

By itself, the light is OK. Good build quality, comfortable in the hand, and the clicky is nice.

But compared to other lights in its class, it's a suspect design. These "contact sticks" are very poor design and a proper spring would have been much, much better. The light is also very large compared to my L0D-CE. Far from being a key chain candidate. It's not brightest in its class, not even close. It's not smallest. The only unique feature is really the clicky, and that adds to the length quite a bit. The head on this thing is huge compared to others. With all that metal to dissipate heat, it should be able to utilize a 10440 at a lot higher output.


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## SlotCAR (Dec 17, 2007)

Mine works with AAA eneloops, AW 10440's as well as Surefire 10440's.

*- SlotCAR*


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## Dobbler (Dec 17, 2007)

OK, I was able to get Turbo with the 10440 by removing the rubber spacer and adding a magnet from Lummi. I can't screw the head down enough for it to be solid.

Ricky -- we really need a tailcap design that has a spring to accomodate battery variability. This contact stick idea is really bad. How can I carry a 10440 and a Lithium as a backup if I need to carry around spare parts for my light?


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## SlotCAR (Dec 17, 2007)

I don't see how a spring would work.

The contact stick when used with the clicky switch creates an isolated ground that gains its connectivity to ground through the circuit in the switch. Switching the clicky on, completes the path to ground, lighting the light.

The light engine's brass contact floats in and out to yield the two different levels of output. You can definately hear and feel the click as it switches mode.

The only flaw with the initial release of the light was that the contact stick issued with the clicky was just to short. I still think even the longest one could be increased in size but the design does work with the 4 different battery types I have used with it. AAA eneloop's and MAHA's as well as AW 10440's and Surefire 10440's.

It is quite brite on 10440's and they are approved as opposed to the L0D-CE which is risky if you run it on 10440's.

*- SlotCAR*


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## Dobbler (Dec 18, 2007)

SlotCAR said:


> I don't see how a spring would work.
> 
> The contact stick when used with the clicky switch creates an isolated ground that gains its connectivity to ground through the circuit in the switch. Switching the clicky on, completes the path to ground, lighting the light.
> 
> ...



There's more than one flaw if you have to mix and match clip/no clip+contat stick length+spacer magnet. Battery should be independent of switching mechanism. I still have to use a magnet spacer (about 0.5mm) with the AW 10440 and the longest contact stick to make it work. The flaw in the design us using LENGTH as a method to switch modes.

That spring in the head should have been used to match all battery length ranges. Then add a two-stage clicky or some sort of twist switch (low/high) on the back. 

I really dig Lumapower lights -- I own 10 now. This just isn't one of their best designs. Too large for what it is, and too flawed in what is doesn't do very well. I think Lumapower should send out a few samples to get feedback before they start production runs of new designs. Could save them and us a lot of time and hassle, and for them possibly a lot of $.


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## SlotCAR (Dec 18, 2007)

Maybe instead of a contact stick, the stick should be a spring ...


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## mudman cj (Dec 18, 2007)

As you said, that would require isolation of the spring from the body of the flashlight to make the clicky work. One would have to make room for a plastic washer for the battery cathode to rest against, and the spring would pass through the hole in the center of the washer to make contact. The internal threads at the back of the body would also probably have to be drilled out to make clearance for the spring. A spring would also have to be added to the twisty tailcap were one to want the option of that configuration. I think it is possible... but I don't think I will be doing that to mine since it works as is. I am waiting for 10440s tough, so there is yet an opportunity for me to change my mind.


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## phatalbert (Dec 21, 2007)

Are there runtime graphs available for this light anywhere? 

If not, do those of you who own the light seem to see pretty flat regulation? Thanks!


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## MattK (Dec 22, 2007)

Dobbler said:


> There's more than one flaw if you have to mix and match clip/no clip+contat stick length+spacer magnet. Battery should be independent of switching mechanism. I still have to use a magnet spacer (about 0.5mm) with the AW 10440 and the longest contact stick to make it work. The flaw in the design us using LENGTH as a method to switch modes.
> 
> That spring in the head should have been used to match all battery length ranges. Then add a two-stage clicky or some sort of twist switch (low/high) on the back.



Heya Dobbler I'm not sure if this is entirely fair. The Avenger is the only AAA sized light right now allowing the user to drive it over such a wide range of input voltage and with so many battery types. The fact that AAA's aren't really a 'standard size, that there are flat tops, buttons of various sizes etc is nearly impossible to design around. YES it would have been best if LP had gotten more battery samples to test with but in all fariness they resolved the issue incredibly quickly, at no additonal expense to any user except maybe a few days of waiting for parts for a bleeding edge product.

A 2 stage tailcap switch would have been less efficient as it would have had to use a resistor for the 2nd stage and the tailcap is tiny, not leaving much room for this type of mechanism. Kudos to LP for including a clicky IN THE BOX where the other mfr's of competing products don't even offer one as an option. 

Neither the Tiablo or Fenix can accept the voltage of a li-ion battery never mind how one fits. The Tiablo is 1 level, Fenix has multiple levels but you have to cycle through them which is inconvenient and could ruin night adjusted vision. With the Avenger one can pre-select the output level before turing the light on via the clicky and or one can go from off to low and back to off without having to obliterate your night vision. 

Flexible power, flexible switching, flexible carry options(2 lanyards, holster key ring, pocket clip) make the Avenger the most flexible adaptable AAA based lighting tool availble today - I think that makes the design a winner.


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## Dobbler (Dec 22, 2007)

As you know (from my many purchases) I'm a big LumaPower fan. In fact, I have been carrying the Avenger all week to really evaluate it.

I'm not a hardware or electrical engineer (software is my thing) so I'm far from an expert on these things. I understand the space constraints with a AAA light. The M3 is longer than its competitors because of the spring switch, but it is isolated away from the batter compartment. Combining the two functions (switch + battery fit) just isn't optimal from the user perspective. I'm not sure I can offer a technical solution, but as a LumaPower fan (10 lights and counting) and a real user of their products I wanted to voice my feedback on the design.

EDIT: And I have to admit, having a clicky on a AAA light rocks. I carry with a 10440 loaded up and a lithium backup.


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## Derek Dean (Dec 23, 2007)

I got my Avenger from Battery Junction today. It was sure nice that everybody here posted their experiences with getting this little jewel to work properly, it made it so much easier for me to just sit down at a table, play with all the assorted parts, read this thread again, and finally come up with a configuration that works beautifully with an AW 10440, a Sanyo Eneloop, and a Duracell alkaline.... all with no battery rattle or looseness of parts. 

By removing the little rubber spacer in the head and installing the longest contact stick, I was able to get both levels and the clicky to function as it should with all 3 batteries.

*Fit and finish:* Excellent. The anodizing on mine is flawless. There is a heft to this light that gives it a feeling of solidness. The clicky feels just about perfect, with a nice solid on/off function that leaves me feeling like it won't be accidentally activated. The only minor issue I could find is that the LED is not perfectly centered. 

*OutPut:* Using an AW 10440 and comparing it to my NovaTac 120P in a ceiling bounce test..... I found that the Avenger was slightly brighter than the NovaTac's 85 setting. Using a NiMh or alkaline, the high output is similar to the Jetbeam C-LE on Medium. 
*
Beam quality:* The beam is certainly not artifact free, but even looking at a white wall it's quite nice..... with a large central spot that blends smoothly into the corona and then gradually into the very bright spill beam, with a total width that is almost identical to the NovaTac.

The tint on my Avenger is slightly on the warm side, which seems to give better color rendering, especially for reds, yellows, and browns.

*Overall: *I knew going in that to fully utilize the capabilities of this light I would need to run it using a 10440 cell, and it certainly seems to live up to all of the claims made by Lumapower when doing so. Yes, it took a bit of tweaking to get everthing working, but that's a small price to pay for a cutting edge little pocket rocket. Thanks Lumapower!


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## javafool (Dec 23, 2007)

Dobbler said:


> <snip>
> The M3 is longer than its competitors because of the spring switch, but it is isolated away from the batter compartment. Combining the two functions (switch + battery fit) just isn't optimal from the user perspective. I'm not sure I can offer a technical solution, but as a LumaPower fan (10 lights and counting) and a real user of their products I wanted to voice my feedback on the design.



Excellent points Dobbler. I am also a big LumaPower fan and the Avenger leaves me somewhat cold compared to their other flashlights. I find it large for what it does, limited in brightness using anything but a LI battery, and the beam on my flashlight is somewhat yellow. I guess this time I lost the lottery.
All of my other LumaPower flashlights and modules are really pretty spectacular but I feel the Avenger comes up a little oversized and dim compared to their other lights.


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## phatalbert (Dec 23, 2007)

Isn't it possible for this light to be slightly dimmer than it's competitors on NIMH because it has a flatter or longer runtime? It doesn't seem fair to critique it's brightness without any runtime graphs.


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## schuster (Dec 23, 2007)

Just received mine from Batteryjunction as well. I too have been looking for the perfect AAA light, and perhaps my expectations were too high. Out of the box, using the flat tailcap, I'm a bit disappointed.

I've used it using only various alkaline and NiMH cells. Even on high, it's dimmer and distractingly greener than my much-maligned Ultrafire WF-206C. The beam is full of artifacts and irregularities which, I suppose, only bother you if you shine it at a plain target rather than actual use.

My big complaint, though, is that the battery contact and switching are too fiddly. Initially it was so dim - it seemed to have "low" and "lower" modes only - that I thought it was defective. Eventually I got the "high" mode to come up with some cells, but oddly it's sometimes the "low" mode comes up second rather than first, as you continue to twist. I now know to listen for the click of the internal mode switch in order to know when to expect it to go to "high" ... but it's not dependable. 

Further, with all modes and battery types there is an unsteady, shimmering quality to the output, with minute variations as you rotate the barrel, which suggests that power transmission is dependent on some metal-to-metal contact that is not solid and dependable. I havne't tried the clicky switch yet, but if it mode switching isn't dependable and solid with the end cap, I can't imagine how undependable it might be if yet another variable were introduced.

I'm beginning to agree with those that insist a tail battery spring is a must; perhaps that would improve things with this design.


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## phatalbert (Dec 23, 2007)

phatalbert said:


> Isn't it possible for this light to be slightly dimmer than it's competitors on NIMH because it has a flatter or longer runtime? It doesn't seem fair to critique it's brightness without any runtime graphs.



Just double checked the specs and LP advertises 150 minutes on high compared to the (roughly) 1 hour that flashlightreviews.com got out of the L0D-CE in high mode... if the LP claim is near the mark then it would seem to explain the "dimness" that users are noticing with their avengers.


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## Derek Dean (Dec 24, 2007)

Howdy, I just got back from shooting some comparison beamshots with my new Avenger. BTW, I love the neck lanyard, it makes the light super easy to use with not much chance of misplacing it.

Ok, for your viewing pleasure we have 3 candidates. These were all shot with my Canon G3 set to full manual. ASA 200, F 4.0, 13 seconds, color balance set for Daylight, focus set to infinity. It's about 100 feet to the middle trees.

1st up is my trusty *Jetbeam C-LE* version1 with a freshly charged AA Sanyo Eneloop NiMh cell, set to it's highest level: 






Next up is my *NovaTac 120P* set to 85 lumens:





And finally, my newest jewel, the *Lumapower Avenger 100 Rebel*:





So, there you go. Those photos appear just a tad brighter than they actually were, but not much. I REALLY like the Avenger. Yes, it's a bit heavier and bigger than other AAA lights, so I wouldn't recommend it for those looking for the smallest light, but IMHO, when using a 10440 cell this classy little light certainly delivers a punch. 

Not only that, but it can deliver the Turbo level for over 2 hours* continuously, with 10 hours at a very usable lower level which is perfect for closeup applications (according to Lumapower, I will do runtime tests tomorrow)! And I reeeeaaaallllly like the clicky, it just feels right. 

So, if you are willing to dable in the world of unprotected 10440 cells, and understand that this is not a tiny keychain light, then I think the Avenger is certainly worth a look.

Edit: *With AW's 320 mAh 10440 cell I got 58 minutes on Turbo.


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## phatalbert (Dec 24, 2007)

Nice Shots! Were you planning on doing runtimes with a NIMH?


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## Derek Dean (Dec 24, 2007)

phatalbert said:


> Nice Shots! Were you planning on doing runtimes with a NIMH?


Since I am planning on using this light primarily with 10440 lithium-ion cells that's what I'm going to test it with because I like to know for sure what I can count on with any light I have, however, since these are unprotected cells I don't plan on running it till it shuts off, but rather just until I see some pronounced dimming, which should also give me an idea of how well the regulation is working as well.

But let's see, yes, I do have some Sanyo Eneloop NiMh AAA cells, so I'd be happy to run a test using those too.


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## phatalbert (Dec 24, 2007)

Derek Dean said:


> But let's see, yes, I do have some Sanyo Eneloop NiMh AAA cells, so I'd be happy to run a test using those too.



Thanks a ton! I think that would be very helpful for a fair comparison of the lights efficiency compared to the L0D as well at determining how well it is regulated. :twothumbs


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## Derek Dean (Dec 25, 2007)

Ok, here are my less than scientific runtime tests:

1. New *AW 10440 320 mAh* cells. Both freshly charged, but rested overnight. I ran this twice and averaged the 2 results (which were within a few minutes of each other). *58 minutes on Turbo.* 

Very flat regulation with the AW 10440 cells, with only a very slight drop (only noticeable with my meter) after 30 minutes.

2. 1 year old *Sanyo Eneloop 750 mAh* cells. Both cells charged about 3 months ago (that's when I lost my ARC AAA...aaarrrrgghhh). I ran this test twice, and again averaged the results (which were also within a few minutes of each other). *1 hour 20 minutes on High.* 

Ruler flat regulation with the Sanyo Eneloop cells.


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## gunga (Dec 25, 2007)

Very interesting how the Avaneger handles different battery types. A lot brighter on turbo (I assume) yet good runtime.

I just got mine, it took a bit of work to get it working properly (not happy about that part) but it seems to be working properly now, so I'm reasonably satisfied with the function.


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## phatalbert (Dec 25, 2007)

Thanks Derek! So it seems like that with 900mah batteries in both, the avenger has around 50% longer runtime than a Fenix L0D, which (for me at least) excuses the fact that it's not as bright. Can't wait to get mine


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## Derek Dean (Dec 25, 2007)

BTW, I wanted to point out that one of the reasons for my test was to see how AW's 10440 lithium-ion cells would react, since I've never used unprotected cells and was concerned by the Avenger's lack of a low voltage warning.

So, I kept a careful eye on the light watching for any dimming. As soon as the dimming became obvious I turned off the light and tested the cell. It was still above 3.0 volts, so I feel confident that by simply keeping an eye out for any dimming of the beam that I should have no problem with over-discharging the cell. 

Of course, for me, an even better plan is to frequently top off the cells, maybe once a week. 

Oh, I found it interesting that the light never got hot during the tests, just slightly warm. Ambient temp. was 65 deg. F.

If I had to pick my favorite thing about this light, it would be the beam. I love the broad, even hot spot that blends so nicely into the corona and bright spill beam. It's more floody than my NovaTac, so more suitable for close to medium range applications, but still has enough reach to be a useful general purpose light. 

One final word..... if you are considering purchasing this light, then you owe it to yourself to get AW's nice little 10440 battery/charger combo deal for $15: 

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=79847 

The 10440 cell turns this into a very useful and fun little light.


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## Dobbler (Dec 26, 2007)

Derek Dean said:


> BTW, I wanted to point out that one of the reasons for my test was to see how AW's 10440 lithium-ion cells would react, since I've never used unprotected cells and was concerned by the Avenger's lack of a low voltage warning.
> 
> So, I kept a careful eye on the light watching for any dimming. As soon as the dimming became obvious I turned off the light and tested the cell. It was still above 3.0 volts, so I feel confident that by simply keeping an eye out for any dimming of the beam that I should have no problem with over-discharging the cell.
> 
> ...



My light was accidentally turned on in my pocket the other day with a 10440 in it. Didn't notice it at all. So when I went to charge this battery, the most I can charge it up to is 4.07v. So, I guess one needs to not run the 10440's until they're not producing any light


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## Derek Dean (Dec 26, 2007)

Dobbler, you bring up a good point, and one I should have made in my last post. While I think a lithium-ion rechargeable 10440 cell is necessary to fully utilize the Avenger's potential, I also think it is vitally important for anybody considering purchasing and using these unprotected cells to first read as much information as they can about the dangers inherent with this technology and learn what measures need to be taken to help reduce the possibilities of problems. 

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/

* 10440 unprotected cells need special handling, and precautions must be taken with their use to insure your safety.*


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## garence (Dec 27, 2007)

Well, from what I'm seeing everyone who is pleased with this light are those who use 10440 batteries. I bought this light with the expectation that I'll get roughly the same performance from both AAA and 10440--the posting by Lumapower did not make this distinction. Or am I wrong? It's a great looking light and the finish is excellent. I just need something brighter in this form factor... I wanted this to be my swappable EDC, alternating with my L0D Q4.


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## garence (Dec 28, 2007)

Oddjob said:


> I got mine today and I must have received a bum unit. It had some intermittent problems where the low would not activate or I would tighten it and it would turn off from high but tighten it a bit further and it would turn on again. The foam ring in the head came off as well. I contacted Ricky and he said I could return it. It seemed like a nice little light but since I've had some bad luck with mutilevel 1AAA lights recently (lost my LF2 and now this) I'll probably stick to my AA and CR123 lights.


How long did it take for him to reply to you? My message from several days ago is still waiting for a reply and the one before that took over a week for him to answer. Even then, it was not a complete response, leaving several questions unanswered. I'm suspecting I need to be selective on my word choices and keep one question per e-mail...


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## gravityz (Dec 28, 2007)

Does this mean the negative stick does not move(eg no spring underneath)

is it not easy to dent batteries by either screwing things down to tight or when using high with a twist.
how do they avoid dents in the batteries?


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## MikeLip (Dec 28, 2007)

garence said:


> Well, from what I'm seeing everyone who is pleased with this light are those who use 10440 batteries. I bought this light with the expectation that I'll get roughly the same performance from both AAA and 10440--the posting by Lumapower did not make this distinction. Or am I wrong? It's a great looking light and the finish is excellent. I just need something brighter in this form factor... I wanted this to be my swappable EDC, alternating with my L0D Q4.




The makers posting in the sales area was quite clear - 10440s are needed to get full output from the light. But making the light work with 10440s can be a problem.


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## Derek Dean (Dec 29, 2007)

gravityz said:


> is it not easy to dent batteries by either screwing things down to tight or when using high with a twist.
> how do they avoid dents in the batteries?


I thought a bit about this while I was installing the longer contact stick, and I just don't see denting the battery as a problem with this light.

To insert the battery you have to remove the head. Once the battery is installed and the head attached, but not tightened, I just click the light on and then begin to tighten the head. First, the light comes on in the lowest level. From there it is about a 1/4 of a turn before it activates the highest level, and from that point it is another 1/4 turn before the head becomes snug. 

So, there is really no reason to snug the head down too much and dent the battery, because the light works fine without the head tightened all the way down. Of course I have snugged the head all the way down, but as long as you don't apply undue pressure, I see no reason that you would dent the battery. 

BTW, I found the resistance of the head threads to be just right, so that under normal use it doesn't turn on it's own, but it's not hard (even one handed) to change between the low and high level.

Let's see, I got this light last Saturday and I've been using it quite extensively all week. I just checked both of my AW 10440 cells, no dents.


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## phatalbert (Dec 31, 2007)

I am still unable to get the clicky to work when the clip is installed and even removing the 0-ring. Any pointers? (P.S. The clip works fine with the twistie cap)


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## Walleye1 (Dec 31, 2007)

I bought a Lumapower light. It came without any instructions so I had to figure things out on my own. When I figured things out and tightened the reflector, the base of the reflector crushed the wires/contacts to the LED and caused a short. I wasn't doing anything wrong, it is just designed that way and it isn't worth the money. I'd look for a different & less expensive brand- just my opinion. I mean the refelctor just crushed the wires, how can you design something and charge that amount for it and have such a major flaw in the design? I think that a lot of these smaller internet flashlight companies are just some guy who figured out he can take some parts, slap them together, inscribe a name on it and sell it for $100 as a high quality light when actually it is no different than any other light, just a lot more money. I bought a Surefire and that didn't have any issues with the reflector ripping out critical components when tightened. Good job Surefire! Quality product!


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## Walleye1 (Dec 31, 2007)

And my Lumapower light when using the smooth refelctor looks like Saturn. More rings than a pimp. And it has a noticeable hue to the beam, like a reddish-violet or something. My maglite w/malkoff drop in and my surefire and my mini mags with terralux upgrades are all better lights than my lumahunter.


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## phatalbert (Dec 31, 2007)

phatalbert said:


> I am still unable to get the clicky to work when the clip is installed and even removing the 0-ring. Any pointers? (P.S. The clip works fine with the twistie cap)



Finally figured it out. I had to press the longest stick firmly into the plastic screw and then I realized that the GITD button is sometimes inhibiting the reverse clicky from releasing all the way to turn the light on. I love the form factor and beam (as well as the lack of PWM) on the light and I hope that these few kinks work themsleves out


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## tpchan (Dec 31, 2007)

Thanks to MattK at Battery Junction, I'm happy to report that I finally have a fully working Avenger Rebel 100. The latest foam spacer and the even taller contact stick finally allow the UltraFire 10440 cell to work correctly with the Avenger. Both Normal and Turbo modes finally work with the clicky tailcap. Using the latest foam spacer the 10440 works correctly with the twisty tailcap as well. For regular duracell/energizer AAA, the rubber spacer and twisty or clicky tailcaps worked fine out of the box. My Maha NiMH AAA cells also worked out of the box with both tailcaps.


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## Derek Dean (Dec 31, 2007)

Walleye1 said:


> And my Lumapower light when using the smooth refelctor looks like Saturn. More rings than a pimp. And it has a noticeable hue to the beam, like a reddish-violet or something. My maglite w/malkoff drop in and my surefire and my mini mags with terralux upgrades are all better lights than my lumahunter.


Howdy Walleye, and welcome to CPF,
I think you are a bit confused. This is the review thread for the Lumapower Avenger, not the Lumahunter.

And just for your information, Lumapower is a well respected flashlight company that has produced many quality lights, but I'm sorry you weren't happy with yours.


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## Patriot (Dec 31, 2007)

So, the Avenger isn't as bright as the LODCE Q2, with any battery type but has a longer run-time?


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## phatalbert (Jan 1, 2008)

Patriot36 said:


> So, the Avenger isn't as bright as the LODCE Q2, with any battery type but has a longer run-time?



This seems to be the case. It's unfair to critique this light as "dim" without referencing runtime as you have :thumbsup:


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## EntropyQ3 (Jan 1, 2008)

phatalbert said:


> This seems to be the case. It's unfair to critique this light as "dim" without referencing runtime as you have :thumbsup:


Since I own both a couple of L0D-Q4s and an Avenger, I can add some data.
Runtime on LSD AAA NiMH (GP ReCyKo), verified to have identical capacities using a BC-900 charger:

L0D-Q4: 57 min
Avenger: 101 min

Of course, there is no way my data have 3 digits of accuracy, but saying that the Avenger has 70% longer running times on high seems justified. I'm a bit wary of saying too much based on my milk carton turned into lightbox a la Chevrofreak, but based on those measurements, it also puts out less light to the same tune. So it kind of balances.

Ironically, if you power the Avenger with a 10440, you get pretty much identical runtimes to the L0D-Q4 on ReCyKos, some 56-60 mins, but now with somewhat higher light output than the L0D-Q4 on high.

So the L0D-Q4 pretty much provides similar output levels and running times on a NiMH that the Avenger does on NiMH+LiIon. Which is *a lot* more practical, obviously. Turning that around a bit, we are comparing the Avenger with the best sample(*) of the updated version of the class leader in terms of output/runtime. The LumaPower does a very credible job within its design limitations.

Of course running times and light output is very far from the whole story for a flashlight.



* All comparisons made with the better of 2 L0D-Q4 samples. This sample had roughly 20% higher luminous output than the other. I have no way of assessing sample variations for the Avenger.


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## phatalbert (Jan 1, 2008)

Thanks for the information Entropy! After finally having an Avenger in my possession for a couple of days I'm developing some first-hand impressions, some of which have already been discussed at length. 

*Cons*
-Restricting GITD switch cover causes on/off sensitivity and a failure to illuminate sometimes (easily fixed by a moments "wiggling" though I wonder if this is something that might be covered by the warranty [even though I'm it's second owner])
-Overly complex tail cap design (The plastic contact stick holder doesn't give me that "One light on a dessert island" feel)
-Relatively loose head threading (The tailcap seems to have a smoother and more rugged feel, perhaps becaue there is less leverage, as the long head provides ample leverage against the body)
-Setup was rather difficult and somewhat irritating at times.
-Waterproofness seems to have been lost in design
-There is too much twisting to get from off to high (at least a half rotation)

*Pros*
-Clip!!! I love the clip. I rarely carry car keys and don't much like the feel of a aaa light on them anyway. The clip is firm and perfect on the pocket. It even can be clipped on the outside of the pocket to illuminate the ground in front of you. It also adds grip when twisting. Most importantly the clip avoids the "awkward" appearance of a sideways light floating around the bottom of your pocket in addition to make it much more accessible. I shudder at the thought of purchasing another aaa light without a comparable clip.
-Knurling- The amount and location of the knurling is great
-GITD- The o-ring glows so bright when the light is turned off that you could probably (painfully) read a few lines of text with it
-Beam- The color of my beam on NIMH's is as close to pure white as I can imagine. Makes my maglight luxeon look quite green and my Rex exceedingly blue.
-Beam Pattern- Again, very nice though brighter at the edge than the mid-point between the edge and hot-spot. 
-Modes- Switching is reliable and is gloriously free of pulse width modulation and (my preference) SOS and stobe. 
-Clicky/Twisty option- A great bonus but perhaps the clicky should have been made optional so that the price wouldn't be as much of a bother to people. 
-Support- Lumapower and Battery Junction have done a great job of keeping up with the needs of this light and its owners.

*Conclusion*
I am quite happy with this unique light (Even without the use of li-ion) and hope that either I or its distributors can successfully work out the remaining kinks. :twothumbs


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## Polar Light (Jan 4, 2008)

Hello everybody. My first post 

I am a bit dissapointed with my new avenger and I still can not get it to work properly. I am using Energiser lithium AAA cells and clicky switch. 
Mostly the light switches on on high mode but I can not get it to work properly on low mode. I tried different "tail pins" and even removed the rubber ring rounding the positive contact but no results. Can there be issues inside the switch located in the head?

Thanks for helping the n00b :thumbsup:


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## phatalbert (Jan 4, 2008)

Polar Light said:


> Can there be issues inside the switch located in the head?
> 
> Thanks for helping the n00b :thumbsup:



First, a hearty :welcome:
I doubt the issue is in the head but the quickest way to find out would be to see if both modes work in the twisty form. Other things to try:
1. Clear the tube and every part you can of debris.
2. Remove the plastic washer, insert the longest post and push it (hard) into the washer, this ensures that the length is being utilized.
3. Press the side of the clicky switch if it should be on and isn't. My glow in the dark clicky cover sometimes prevents the switch from coming fully out.

Let me know what your results are!


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## Derek Dean (Jan 4, 2008)

Howdy Polar Light, and welcome to CPF,
Yep, this can certainly be a challenging light to start with, but I'll bet we can help you get things sorted out. I think phatalbert's suggestions were right on target.

1. First, take the head off and use your finger (or maybe a pencil eraser) to press lightly down on the positive node. You should hear it click as you press and release. That's the switch that activates the level change. If you can hear it click then there is a good chance that at least the mechanical part of the switch is working. 

2. As phatalbert suggested, you might want to check the light in twisty mode, so remove the clicky tailcap and re-install the little silver plug in the negative end of the battery tube and secure it well, then put a fresh cell in the light and test it by twisting the bezel from off, to low, then further to high. 

3. If both levels are working now then great, at least we know that the level changing switch is working, so chances are that the contact stick in the clicky switch is not pressed firmly enough into the little black plastic washer and isn't pushing the cell up enough to cause the positive node to depress and activate the high level. 

So, you might need to lightly sand either the bottom disc shaped edge of the contact stick, or the interior edge of the depression in the plastic washer so that the contact seats fully in that depression, giving it it's full length to go up into the battery tube and push the cell up to where it needs to be. 

After you've checked the seating of the contact stick, reassemble the clicky and try testing the light again. 

Ok, good luck, and let us know it's going. It's really a fun little light and worth the effort to get it going. 







Polar Light said:


> Hello everybody. My first post
> 
> I am a bit dissapointed with my new avenger and I still can not get it to work properly. I am using Energiser lithium AAA cells and clicky switch.
> Mostly the light switches on on high mode but I can not get it to work properly on low mode. I tried different "tail pins" and even removed the rubber ring rounding the positive contact but no results. Can there be issues inside the switch located in the head?
> ...


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## Polar Light (Jan 5, 2008)

I cleaned the contacts with alcohol cleaner but this did not help much. The head of the light is quite loose and there seems to be some contact issues between the head and body. Sometimes when the light dimms or does not turn on, a slight touch with fingertip to the head turns the light on. 

It looks like the problem occurs only when using the low-mode.

I ordered some 10440 cells to try. Hopefully my light works better with these.


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## gravityz (Jan 17, 2008)

Hi Derek.

does this mean the contact stick moves because there is a spring underneath

i never got any straight answers about this so i got myself a LF2 instead.

might be nice to mention here is trhe contactstick is moving becauswe if it does it will not dent the batteries.




Derek Dean said:


> I thought a bit about this while I was installing the longer contact stick, and I just don't see denting the battery as a problem with this light.
> 
> To insert the battery you have to remove the head. Once the battery is installed and the head attached, but not tightened, I just click the light on and then begin to tighten the head. First, the light comes on in the lowest level. From there it is about a 1/4 of a turn before it activates the highest level, and from that point it is another 1/4 turn before the head becomes snug.
> 
> ...


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## Derek Dean (Jan 19, 2008)

gravityz said:


> Hi Derek.
> 
> does this mean the contact stick moves because there is a spring underneath
> 
> ...


Hi gravityz. Hey, sorry, I thought this had been answered. To be literal, yes, there is a spring located below the contact stick, but that is for the clicky switch and has nothing to do with the contact stick, which *does not move*.

Actually, it is quite important for the contact stick to stay firmly in place, because it is the pressure from tightening the head down that causes the positive node of the battery to depress the positive contact node in the head, thus switching levels from low to high. 

So while I haven't seen it, I'm pretty sure there is a spring under the positive node/switch in the head (opposite end from the contact stick), and that seems to have the correct tension to cause the switch to go back to low as the head is loosened, and yet not be tight enough to cause denting of the batteries. I still don't have any dents in either of my AW 10440 batteries, and I have used the Avenger daily for the last 3 weeks. 

I think what a lot of folks fail to realize about this light is what an interesting engineering challenge is presented by incorporating the ability to be either a clicky or a much shorter twisty AND have 2 fully regulated levels using any of 4 types of AAA batteries, all in a very small package. Personally I find the resulting design to be quite elegant, both in concept and implementation. 

I still wouldn't recommend this light for the less adventurous spirits, as it's obvious that some folks have had less than stellar results, but for those willing to fiddle and tweak a bit, I believe the ultimate payoff can be an extremely versatile little high performance jewel.

Just before the Avenger came out I was considering the Tiablo A1, the Fenix LODQ4, the Liteflux LF2, and the Peak Baltic. From what I can tell, they all have slightly different performance characteristics, and as far as I'm concerned that's what this hobby is all about, so enjoy your new light. I'll look forward to hearing your thoughts about it when it arrives.


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## gravityz (Jan 19, 2008)

Thanks derek

totally clear to me now
i was thinking about the avenger also because at first i was looking for the brightest aaa(which is the lodce because it is overdriven)
after a while i thought about were i was gonna use this light in real life so i settled for a LF2 which i am not gonna use at full power because it gets to hot to my opinion.

it still seems a very good light when you have the multiple contactsticks to make it work. especially the clicky is great. also batterylife must be good since it is using a rebel100


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## gunga (Jan 19, 2008)

Just a quick note, yes, there is a small spring under the gold button in the head.

Also, I promise to release a review with some more design info etc soon. Should be in the next couple days.

In case anyone is curious!


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## Polar Light (Jan 20, 2008)

Mode switch:








Switch assembly:


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## FsTop (Apr 17, 2008)

This thread refers to using unprotected Li batteries, but never mentions using protected Li cells.

Can anyone steer me to a thread that lays out the tradeoffs of protected vs. unprotected batteries?

Aside from price, what are the differences? Do Protected cells carry less charge? Are they different in size?

I guess my basic question is "Why use unprotected Li cells at all?"


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## MattK (Apr 17, 2008)

FsTop - One should always use protected batteries - there are no disadvantages to them (except they're sometimes slightly fatter).

There's ano such thing as a protected AAA sized 10440 Li-Ion cell - no one has been able to make a PCB of small enough diameter to protect them; that's why you see so many references to unprotected 10440's here.


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## FsTop (Apr 17, 2008)

Ah - the light dawns! Thanks.

Then I guess I should have ordered Protected AW 14500 for my on-order Jet-1. :sigh:


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## toby_pra (Apr 17, 2008)

Like always a very very exellent review!:thumbsup:


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## FsTop (Apr 18, 2008)

Got my Avenger today. No problems with Eneloops, once I got the clicky tightened down on the keychain loop. 

It took a light squeeze with pliers to make the keychain ring fit a bit tighter in order to fit into the slots. Then I had to tighten the clicky tailcap down pretty hard to get the ring to drop into its groove, which then made the clicky work reliably.

It's a very nice light. I like the controls - clicky plus twist-for-brightness is a great combination. 

It's also a lot of light on High, even with Eneloops, and not too huge for the keychain, now that many car keys are almost as long. I like the way the ring attaches on the side, so the light does not hang as "long" as it would otherwise.

I like the feel of the finish - the light bead-blast gives good grip without much need for knurling.

So far, my only criticism is that it could be thinner - the flats and flutes waste at least a millimeter of wall thickness, and a keychain light should be as small as possible, IMHO.

I like it lots better than my LOD because you don't have cycle through Medium to get to Dim, and You get to decide what level comes on, rather than the light arbitrarily deciding that you want the last level you used. 

I also like the clicky - a lot.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## FsTop (Apr 23, 2008)

I just rec'd an AW 10440 and put it in the Avenger.

As expected, maybe 75% brighter than with Eneloops. Low is a little on the bright side for reading the menu in a dimly-lit restaurant, but the beam goes nicely from a moderate hot-spot to the fairly bright surround, so you don't need to hold the light a foot above your head to light the whole menu.

The Avenger also has good throw - not as good as my Jet-1, but it has a nicer, smoother, beam for everyday and close-up tasks -I don't go raccoon-hunting very often.

One critique - the name is for the camouflage-underwear crowd. I, at least, don't carry a key chain flashlight to assist me in revenge...


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