# Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5



## NetKidz (Feb 16, 2008)

It's about one year after the first LF2 Cree XR-E was released, here's new LF2X in Natural HAIII finish. :thumbsup:

Manufacurer's page: http://www.liteflux.com/english/product_detail.php?act=1&index=16
English User manual: http://mountech.myweb.hinet.net/operation manual - english.pdf
Chinese User manual: http://mountech.myweb.hinet.net/operation manual - chinese.pdf


LED Cool's sales thread: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=175263


Another great review at Light-Reviews.com: http://light-reviews.com/liteflux_lf2_x/review.html


*Spec. (Copied from the manufacturer site)
LED : CREE XR-E Q5
78 mm (L) x 14 mm (D)
Made of aircraft grade aluminum
Natural HA III Hard anodized finish
Battery : single AAA (Alkaline,Ni-MH,Lithium) batteries
single 10440 Li-Ion is available
Switch : twist
Input voltage : 0.9V ~ 5.0V
4 operation modes
6 user defined output
1 user adjusted output
4 functions
Weight : 19g (excluding battery)
Waterproof
Glass lens with AR coating
Candle mode available
Accessories : plastic light cover,O-ring,silicon oil
Wood gift box,quick install necklet assembly & cilp assembly
The main difference from the previous version:
Use Cree XR-E Q5 (Not sure about the color bin)
Natural Type III hard anodized finish
3-in-1 tail (pocket clip, quick release cap. will described below)
Snap on diffuser
===== Photos =====*

*Now it's the picture time *(Sorry for the poor quility. )

Woody gift box:





(The silver sticker is on the shrink warp)

Content: (LF2X with clip, diffuser, o-rings, lubricant, quick release cap and 80cm chain)






Unlike the previous black HAIII, the new NAT HAIII is beautiful, smooth and shining. But the color is very hard to control in natural hard anodizing process. Thus, there'll be color mis-match.





The body has 4 long grooves (slots) like LF3/4/5. But the laser engraved letter orientation is different. 






One of the new enhancement of the LF2X is the multi-function tail. It consists of 1. Detachable pocket clip 2. Socket with threaded hole to attach tripod and 3. quick release cap to use with necklace or lanyard.

Pocket Clip:








Pocket Clip detached:







Threaded hole:








LF2X on tripod and also with snap on diffuser:













Quick release cap:








The cap is twisted to lock and open. Turn 180 degree to lock and another 180 degree to open:




(Left: Opened. Right: Locked)


The thread is also anodized like LF2 but the twisting feels smoother than LF2. And head knurling is one the engine part (LF2 is one the bezel), there won't be loose bezel when you switch on/off. 






New detachable 2-stage switch






There're concave dots to indicate the P1 and P2 position: (one dot for P1 and two dots for P2)









Here's a quick size comparison with the LF2:




(Left to right: LF2 SSC P4/LF2X/LF2X/LF2 Cree XR-E)






With diffuser. (Diffuser for LF2X is snap on, thus it's longer)




(Left to right: LF2 SSC P4/LF2X/LF2 Cree XR-E)

Head:




(Left to right: LF2 SSC P4/LF2X/LF2 Cree XR-E)











*===== BeamShots =====*

The beam pattern of LF2X is funny. The light OP reflector has smoothed out the transit from hotspot to side spill, but the outer side spill is brighter and make the side spill like a big dark riing for short distance. 


-----
LF2X beamshot (NiMH, default P5 50% output):




(F2.8, 1/4s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/6s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/8s ISO100)
-----

-----
LF2X(L) with LF2 SSC P4 (R) beamshot (NiMH, default P5 50% output):




(F2.8, 1/4s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/6s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/8s ISO100)
-----

-----
LF2X(L) with LF2 modded Q5-WG (R) beamshot (NiMH, default P5 50% output):




(F2.8, 1/4s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/6s ISO100)





(F2.8, 1/8s ISO100)

The hotspot is tighter than LF2 Cree XR-E.




*===== Runtime =====*

All runtimes are tested in my closet with beam direct point to a lux meter. (No lightbox used). Since the brightness will be different with the angle or distance, I re-scale the intensity to 0-100 scale based on the initial brightness. I don't have recording meters, the readings are taken by webcam every one minutes. 

I test for default settings only. P1 for 15% output and P2 for 50% output. Also test 100% output.

I don't know what's the dimension of the milk carton that Quickbeam used? The milk carton isn't the same size here. If I know the size, I may make one to estimate the lumen output. Thanks.

The LF2X's circuit was modified to fit the high Vf of Q5. The 100% output for Alkaline/NiMH look like not regulated. I think that may be caused by the high current drain that the battery couldn't provide.

For testing of Alkaline, the battery over-discharge protection is turned OFF. For NiMH/Li-ion, it's ON.


----- Alkaline -----
The battery is Energizer E92.








----- NiMH -----
The battery is Eneloop and charged on MAHA MH-C9000.







----- Li-ion -----
The battery is LC10440 bought from AW. Charged on self-made LTC4054 charger. The starting open-circuit voltage is 4.16v







Below is 100% output runtime. (The reading was taken at 10sec interval.)




(The sharp drop near the end of LC 10440 is the low voltage warning)

I use two 10440. One is Soshine 360mAh button top 10440 and another is LC 320mAh flat top 10440. (The botton top 10440 won't fit the previous LF2.) I don't know how much current needed at 100%, but is obviously over 2C for 10440. It's not good for li-ion to continuously drain over 2C. It's not recommended.

Both start from 4.16v and cut by the over-discharging protection. The batteries were hot when take out. After rest for awhile, the open circuit voltage back to 3.85v for Soshine and 3.9v for LC 10440. The batteries still have some juice left from the rest voltage. I think the voltage sag is large and the protection triggered earily.




===== Cleaning of the switch =====

The 2-stage switch is detachable. If LF2X act strangely, it could be cleaned. The previous LF2 was glued. 

First, clean the tube bare aluminium and switch contact:






If it doesn't work, following the step to detach the switch. But don't do it if you don't know what you're doing. 

1. located the two notch of the switch contact:






2. Use a sharp tweezers, insert into the notch. You must also locate the underneath notches, otherwise it won't be loosed. Turn counter clockwise to screw the switch out.






3. Clean the contacts around the positive contact stick. You could also sink the switch assembily (right part in the photo, NOT THE HEAD) in alcohol to clean it.






-------------------------------

Thanks for viewing. :wave:


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## cave dave (Feb 16, 2008)

Will the SSC LF2 be discontinued?


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## regulator (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*

Great pictures and very informative. Can't wait to receive mine. 

I think you inadvertantly swapped the description in the last beam shots. Did you mean that the LF2X is on the Left and Q5 LF2 on Right?

It looks like the new LF2X puts out a bit more light than the older SSC.


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## DM51 (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*

Excellent review - very thorough and helpful, with good pics. It looks a very well designed light. I like the detachable tailcap feature, with the threaded socket - a bit like the SF Titan one.


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## regulator (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*

Netkids, How bright is the output using the 14400 cell at P1 (15%) compared to using a NiMh cell? Is it close to the NiMh cell at P2 (50%)? Just curious if the efficiency goes up when using a higher voltage cell.

I have both NiMh and the 14400 cells and wonder if there is an advantage to using the 14400 - besides being able to get higher blazing output (which is probably not good for such a small light to run it that high anyways). I am looking for which cell would give the longest runtime for general purpose use at medium to low ouputs. Thanks.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*

Netkids,are the ones selling now in the MP the same do they come with quick detach cap :thinking:
Great review BTW


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## NetKidz (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*

The pictures links seemed dead. The first post couldn't be edited. It always has problem when I try to edit it. :green:

I moved all contents to #3. Sorry for the inconvenience.


@cave dave,
Not sure about it. The beam pattern is different. I think LF2 SSC still have selling point.


@regulator,
Yup. LF2X on Left. :green:

I don't make a lightbox to measure the total output. I don't know the milk carton's dimension and couldn't use Quickbeam's factor to estimate the lumen. LF2 SSC is floody while LF2X's beam is tighter. That'll make the difference you saw.

About the output for NiMH and 10440. (NOT 14400). 10440's output is about twice as NiMH. I think the boost/buck logic wasn't changed: below 2v, drive about 350mA. Above 2v drive about 700mA.

I always use 10440 with LF2. I didn't change the setting, default P1/P2 is enough for my daily use. If I need the max output, it's easy to access by SWx2.


@DM51,
Yes. I like the tail, too.  


@TITAN1833,
The cap is standard.

Thanks.


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## Kilovolt (Feb 17, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*

Netkidz, thanks for the review, very interesting. :thumbsup:

I have a question. I already own an LF2 SSC delivered end of September 07 which I assume is the latest version and I have learned how to use it. Yesterday I ordered an LF2X from Ledcool. Will the operating procedure/programming of the two be identical? In other words, will I be able to use LF2X without looking at the manual?

Thanks.


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## victor01 (Feb 17, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*



Kilovolt said:


> Netkidz, thanks for the review, very interesting. :thumbsup:
> 
> I have a question. I already own an LF2 SSC delivered end of September 07 which I assume is the latest version and I have learned how to use it. Yesterday I ordered an LF2X from Ledcool. Will the operating procedure/programming of the two be identical? In other words, will I be able to use LF2X without looking at the manual?
> 
> Thanks.




Not having owned the LF2X, but noticing the manual in the link of the original poster, to look to be the same as the ones for the LF2, I believe the operation is unchanged. 

LF2 (Cree XR-E) proud owner


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## NetKidz (Feb 18, 2008)

Yes, the UI is the same. There's no need to re-learn.


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 18, 2008)

*Re: Introduce the new LiteFlux LF2X Cree XR-E Q5 (corrected)*



regulator said:


> Netkids, How bright is the output using the 14400 cell at P1 (15%) compared to using a NiMh cell? Is it close to the NiMh cell at P2 (50%)? Just curious if the efficiency goes up when using a higher voltage cell.
> 
> I have both NiMh and the 14400 cells and wonder if there is an advantage to using the 14400 - besides being able to get higher blazing output (which is probably not good for such a small light to run it that high anyways). I am looking for which cell would give the longest runtime for general purpose use at medium to low ouputs. Thanks.


100% on NiMH runs 33mins to 50%, gradually dimming the whole time. 
50% on 10440 is the same amount of output as 100% NiMH initially, but maintains 47 minutes of regulation. AAA and 10440 have the same energy content, so that difference is entirely due to efficiency.


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## regulator (Feb 18, 2008)

2X - thanks. I just noticed that. NiMh 100% is 350ma to the LED and 14400 at 50% would be 350ma to the LED from the information above. Well, I know what cell I will want to run in the light. Pretty cool to be able to use the higher voltage cell (with low discharge) and still be able to get the lower output levels AND better efficiency. 

However, there may not be as big a difference when the medium outputs are used. I will do some test to see if there is still an advantage with the 14400 cell.


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## liquidsix (Feb 19, 2008)

That quick release tailcap, when it's on is it fairly tight and secure? Or is there a danger of it comeing apart (releasing) when you don't want it to?


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## I came to the light... (Feb 21, 2008)

Any info on how bright this is compared to the Tiablo MA1? Both on max and a setting w/ equivalent runtime to the MA1's high.


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## kooter (Feb 22, 2008)

Has anyone got their LF2X yet ?


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## Bigsy (Feb 22, 2008)

Mine came today, fantastic fit and finish...just have to work out this programming lark...


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 22, 2008)

@Bigsy I assume direct from liteflux,as no one else seems to be shipping yet?


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## kooter (Feb 22, 2008)

Why didnt i order direct. :mecry:


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## regulator (Feb 22, 2008)

Mine came yesterday but I was not home - going to pick it up today at the post office after work. I ordered direct. Will post some info later today.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 22, 2008)

kooter said:


> Why didnt i order direct. :mecry:


Because like me,you are a fool 

I doubt we will see them,before others have gone through a few battery changes :nana:


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## regulator (Feb 22, 2008)

Got my LF2X today direct from Liteflux site (it was delivered yesterday but I was not home). The light is extremely nice looking and my HAIII color matches very nicely. The different tail pieces are cool and I like using just the flat end with clip - although I think I may just leave the clip off and pocket carry. This light feels very well made and looks cool.

The tint on mine is fantastic and pure white. Unfortunately my switch is acting a little flaky out of the box. I am going to have to look at NetKids pictures and do some cleaning to see if that helps. 

Output is great and compares nicely against one of the AAA champs - Fenix LOD Q4. Ceiling Bounce Comparison - On Eneloop NiMh, LF2X P1 15% is somewhere between the LOD medium and low. On High 100% the LF2X may be just a bit brighter than the LOD on high.

On a 10440 cell at P1 15% the LF2X puts out as much light as the LOD on medium (with Eneloop NiMh). If you look at NetKids runtime plots - this makes it a more efficient way to run the light. And I feel comfortable using the 10440 in the LF2X but do not with the LOD.

On a 104400 Ultrafire cell, either the cell button is too wide (it is a bit wider than the button on the Eneloop)or the LF2X switch does not fully disengage well when turning the light off. If I do not quickly tighten the light "very tight" it will temporarily see the light go to a dim for a few seconds before turning completely off. I think I may need to work with the switch a bit to figure what may be happening.


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## regulator (Feb 22, 2008)

Interesting - I was getting worried that there may be a problem with my P1 P2 switch operation since I was experiencing problems in the USER mode. I could get the light to ramp up but could not get it to ramp down (after the proper 2 SW ). The light would also seem to not function properly bewtween P1 and P2 at times after this. 

I tried all other modes and they worked. So, I decided to do a "RESET". After that I was able to adjust properly in the USER mode and could now dim the light.

So if anyone is experiencing strange problems it may be wise to RESET the light as a first. I am glad I did and now everything seems to be fine.


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## gunga (Feb 22, 2008)

I've had, at some point, the LF2, LF3, LF5.

They all had some switching issues for the first while. I think it takes them a few days and quite a few cycles to bed in and work properly.

Have faith.

The good thing about the LF2x is that you can open up the switch or tighten it as needed. This was not possible on the old LF2, so this is a big plus!

:thumbsup:


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## regulator (Feb 22, 2008)

I had a LF3 and was familiar with the operation of the switching and modes. My LF3 never showed any problems. I only sold it do to having too many lights that size.

On the LF2X, what was odd was that the P1 P2 switching worked on all other modes but did not work when switching between increase brightness and decrease brightness for the USER mode. And then exiting from the USER mode (but not shutting the light off) seemed to make the P1 P2 switching flakey for the other modes. I am glad I thought to do the RESET.

This is a fantastic little light and will probably be one of my favorites if not THE favorite. I got lucky since the tint on mine is exactly how I like it and pure white - no green or yellow tint. I know there were pictures of some slight rings in the beam but once it is backed away from a wall even a bit they go away and I think it is quite smooth. IMO, I really like the Cree beam profile as opposed to the SSC profile and am glad to see Liteflux release this model.

I may need to get some AW 10440 cells to replace my Ultrafires if they do no work well. I originally wanted the AW cells but they were sold out at the time. I think this light will perform best with the 10440 cells and have increased efficiency - cool.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 22, 2008)

@regulator thanks for the tip on reset,what do you think of the quick detach cap?does it feel secure? thanks :twothumbs


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## regulator (Feb 22, 2008)

Hi Titan 1833,

I have not messed with the tail options yet but think that it may be a good idea to put a bit of locktight on the threads to prevent unecessary unscrewing. I like the flat cap since I will mostly pocket carry the light. The clip is pretty cool though since it can keep the light from rolling and also from falling to the bottom of you pocket. 

The LF2X looks and feels like a more expensive light than the LOD. The LOD is lighter due to the LF2X solid endpieces and possibly thicker material. The LOD is easier to operate one handed. What is hard to get used to when using both lights is that they turn on in opposite directions and one turns on by loosening and the other by tightening! Both are fantastic little performers and extremely versatile and useful EDC's.

I continue to have the strange problem with my Ultrafire cells. The button top is a lot wider on them than a typical AAA cell and may be causing a problem. You have to tighten the light very tight to get it completly off else you see a faint glow like contact is still being made. After seeing NetKids runtime at P1 15% and how much light the LF2X puts out at this setting, I really want to run this light on the 10440 cells for the additional efficiency/runtime.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 22, 2008)

Thanks regulator,hmm locktite I think I may use PTFE tape instead but thanks for the heads up.


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## kooter (Feb 23, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> Because like me,you are a fool
> 
> I doubt we will see them,before others have gone through a few battery changes :nana:


 
The Liteflux website is a nightmare to navigate, and buy. For me anyways. DER. :huh: Thats why i bought from khoo. Plus we get a free AAA. 

You were up late last night TITAN. :kiss:


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 23, 2008)

kooter said:


> The Liteflux website is a nightmare to navigate, and buy. For me anyways. DER. :huh: Thats why i bought from khoo. Plus we get a free AAA.
> 
> You were up late last night TITAN. :kiss:


Ah the free AAA forgot that one cool:twothumbs

Up late,hmmm yes doing a little back up LMAO that was fun 

And yes I will be up late tonight as well,I don't want to miss any fun on CPF :naughty:

BTW no amber nectar for me again :sigh:
Oh am I missing something,were they to be shipped 21st :shrug: :thinking:


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## kooter (Feb 23, 2008)

Not sure if they were shipped on the 21st, i have no confirmation. :sigh:

You going all teetotal on me now? :laughing:


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 23, 2008)

kooter said:


> Not sure if they were shipped on the 21st, i have no confirmation. :sigh:
> 
> You going all teetotal on me now? :laughing:


lol I have my moments  I was just quoting Khoo on the date at the MP.


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## kooter (Feb 23, 2008)

Well i hope they have shipped, need a new toy to play with. Just taken the LF2Xs 10440 off charge, its ready and waiting for implant.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 23, 2008)

kooter said:


> Well i hope they have shipped, need a new toy to play with. Just taken the LF2Xs 10440 off charge, its ready and waiting for implant.


Thanks for the reminder i need some 10440's.


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## kooter (Feb 23, 2008)

No problem TITAN.

I need a few more 10440s too. My Avenger is now running on a normal AAA, and the output sucks. My LOD Q4 has the other in it, and i cant wait to compare output with the LF2X.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 23, 2008)

kooter said:


> No problem TITAN.
> 
> I need a few more 10440s too. My Avenger is now running on a normal AAA, and the output sucks. My LOD Q4 has the other in it, and i cant wait to compare output with the LF2X.


kooter what charger are you using for the 10440 :thinking: 
I'm guessing my wf139 is to high input.


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## kooter (Feb 23, 2008)

Im using a AAA nano charger from AW. Hes doing a special on them with two 10440s i think. 15 bucks if i remember rightly, could be wrong, it has been known. :sick2:


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## DM51 (Feb 23, 2008)

kooter is right. Don't use a WF139 for charging 10440s - they have a capacity of 320mAh, and the WF139 output is 450mA, which is 1.4C.

The Nano-charger (AAA size) is ideal, as it has an output of 200mA. As he says, AW is selling 2x 10440 plus Nano-charger for $15, worldwide shipping included.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 24, 2008)

kooter said:


> Well i hope they have shipped, need a new toy to play with. Just taken the LF2Xs 10440 off charge, its ready and waiting for implant.


Good news they are on the way shipped friday :thumbsup:


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## kooter (Feb 24, 2008)

Yeah, i saw that TITAN. :twothumbs

They are about 7 hours in front of us, so it was really shipped on Thursday, so we should get them a day earlier than we thought. Well thats my theory. :laughing:


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 24, 2008)

kooter said:


> Yeah, i saw that TITAN. :twothumbs
> 
> They are about 7 hours in front of us, so it was really shipped on Thursday, so we should get them a day earlier than we thought. Well thats my theory. :laughing:


All is good then,finally I can throw my 28 year old mag solitaire in a draw forever :naughty: actually my first new AAA light for as many years, Hope it is as good.
One thing I know it will be brighter 

BTW don't ask for beam shot comparisons, as IMHO a lighted match is brighter than my solitaire.


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## NetKidz (Feb 25, 2008)

liquidsix said:


> That quick release tailcap, when it's on is it fairly tight and secure? Or is there a danger of it comeing apart (releasing) when you don't want it to?


 
The tube is freely rotatable when the cap is locked. I think it shouldn't come apart accidently.


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## magic_elf (Feb 25, 2008)

Light-Reviews.com just reviewed this light too, though the runtime on that site seems slightly different. The ones here is "sharper" while the ones there is "smoother" where it falls off (sorry, not sure how to best describe it).


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## kooter (Feb 25, 2008)

Thats a nice review on that site. I wonder how many lumens it puts out on a 10440 though. I guess i will just have to wait and see how bright it is compared to the LOD Q4. Come on mr postman, bring me my light.


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## magic_elf (Feb 26, 2008)

Damn that review shwos the LF2 X giving over 1700+ lux from a 10440!
Is that even possible from a light this size, or think it could be a typo?


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## regulator (Feb 26, 2008)

I did an unscientific runtime comparision with a new olive Fenix LOD Q4 and the LF2X. Using the ceiling bounce test, I adjusted the LF2X to what the LOD put out on medium.

On an eneloop AAA they were almost identical runtime. The LF2X ran for 2:40 and the LOD 2:46. I was very pleased. From others runtime plots the LF2X has a flatter discharge curve than the LOD and the LF2X may have been ever "so" slightly brighter at the very end but you could not really notice. 

My LF2X is able to get a little brighter than my LOD on high.

I have had issues with my P1 P2 switching not working. I took the switch apart several times to clean with swabs and alchohol and the issue would go away for a while but come back. I finally used an electrical contact cleaner and it seems good so far. Each time I made sure the switch was tightened down well. I also examined the switch and the spring mechanism appears to work properly and does so even when tightened back into the tube. I am hoping that there was just film/oxidation on the contacts that needed a real cleaner to get off. I am monitoring it.

My Ultrafire 10440 cells do not work well in the LF2X. You need to really tighten the light for it to go off. The positive contact is a bit wider on these cells. Does anyone have an AW cell for comparison to see if the AW cell positive contact is smaller?? I want to order the AW's if they will work better to gain some of the benifits of using a higher voltage cell.


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## Ice (Feb 26, 2008)

Very interresting, that comparison to the L0D-Q4! Thank you!


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## regulator (Feb 26, 2008)

Thanks Ice. The medium output setting is an extremely useful amount of light and is pretty impressive from a light this small. Years ago we would have killed to get this much output from such a small light and to have an amasing 2:40 runtime from a tiny AAA cell! Runtime on a Energizer lithium cell would probably be around 4 hours of regulated output!!

It is just so cool to be able to carry such a small light and have this much output AND runtime or powerful blast if needed. I remember a few years back when you needed a CR123 cell to get this kind of performance. These levels of performance make a light like this easily able to handle tasks that you used to grab a big 2D light for. It is a comfortable feeling having this light with you and knowing it can handle just about all your needs.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 26, 2008)

@regulator,I have some AW's on the way should be here anyday now I will let you know then.


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## regulator (Feb 26, 2008)

Thanks Titan. I looked around to see if there were any comparison pictures of the AW cells and Ultrafire showing the top button but did not find any.

BTW - I am hopeful that the electrical contact cleaner worked since my light seems much better so far. Maybe besides cleaning everything better the switch is seated/tightened much better after a few tries. Even the Ultrafire cell seems to work better now and does not require as much tightening to shut off.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 26, 2008)

regulator said:


> Thanks Titan. I looked around to see if there were any comparison pictures of the AW cells and Ultrafire showing the top button but did not find any.


 Hi don't know if this will help for now:thinking:
here and here puzzle? they look the same apart from the mha rating?


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## regulator (Feb 26, 2008)

That shows a great picture of the Ultrafire button top - see how wide it is - much wider than a typical AAA cell. Unfortunately the AW picture does not show the top.


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## Bigsy (Feb 26, 2008)

I'm using the same ultrafire's in my LF2X without issue.


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## regulator (Feb 26, 2008)

Maybe my initial issue was more with the switch because I do have an Ultrafire in it now and it does not exhibit the odd behavior when I first got the light. Its possible the wider button top only magnified my initial switch problem? I would get a dim glow if I did not tighten the light very tight. Since using the electrical contact cleaner on the electronic contacts and soaking the switch mechanism, tightening the switch back down, my light is performing a lot better and I have not experienced any of the strange problems with p1-p2 not working. So far so good.


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## tpchan (Feb 26, 2008)

My LF2X finally arrived today when I had to sign for it with the postman. All I had laying around was the blue Ultrafire 10440. Popped it in and it worked just fine in the new LF2X.

I love the even finish color. The pocket clip came pre-installed and that's very nice too. The tint of the Q5 is much whiter than my LF2 with the SSC-P4 (which has a greenish tint to it).

The threads are much smoother on the LF2X than my older LF2. The nice new snap-on diffuser even fits on my older LF2-P4. Very cool.

Now if only some kind soul would give me a tip on how to change the pocket clip for the quick release chain cap, so that I could give that a try, I'd be grateful. Thanks in advance!

The Q5 also seems brighter than the Rebel 100 in my Lumapower Avenger, both are powered by blue Ultrafire 10440's. Better spill pattern on the LF2X than my Avenger.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 26, 2008)

tpchan,unscrew the tail,now the quick release slots on and twist 180 degree,there are no threads in the second OP.


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## NetKidz (Feb 27, 2008)

Hi regulator,

Thanks for your comparison with L0D. :thumbsup: 

I didn't have UltraFire 10440 and couldn't sure the problem. My Soshine 10440 was bought from AW and usable without problem. It's about 1mm longer compared to flat top LC 10440 from AW.


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## NetKidz (Feb 27, 2008)

magic_elf said:


> Light-Reviews.com just reviewed this light too, though the runtime on that site seems slightly different. The ones here is "sharper" while the ones there is "smoother" where it falls off (sorry, not sure how to best describe it).



I think the battery over-discharge protection was not switched ON.


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## magic_elf (Feb 27, 2008)

Thats explains it!  Thanks NetKidz.

So basically with battery protection ON, the light will just go out suddenly and with it OFF there's a gradual decline right?


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 27, 2008)

magic_elf said:


> Thats explains it!  Thanks NetKidz.
> 
> So basically with battery protection ON, the light will just go out suddenly and with it OFF there's a gradual decline right?


With protection on you will also get a warning "blink" a few minutes in advance. Also, since the protection is based on loaded voltage dropping below 3, even after protection trips, you can usually switch to a lower level and get output for a while, as the cell voltage will rebound with the lower current draw.


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## NetKidz (Feb 27, 2008)

Hi 2xTrinity,

Thanks for explanation. Yes, it'll warn you first. 

It'll blink 3 times every 40 seconds when the voltage drop to 1.0v (for NiMH) or 3.0v (for Li-ion). When the voltage drop to 0.8v (for NiMH) or 2.8v (for Li-ion), it'll fast strobe for 6 seconds and shutdown itself. It still drains a little current when in this shutdown state (higher than ordinary OFF state). Be sure to change battery or turn on and off to get out from the shutdown state.

BTW, the over-discharge protection is not suitable for LiFePO4 cell.


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## Cemoi (Feb 27, 2008)

To the happy early owners:
Is the brightness variation in the user adjustable mode now logarithmic, or is it still linear like on the LF2?


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## tpchan (Feb 27, 2008)

The brightness variation in user-adjustable mode from lowest low to the blink denoting highest high takes about 16 seconds by my one-thousand-one, one-thousand-two counting. It seems to be very different in how it adjusts up versus the older LF2, which was very linear. I'm not quite sure how to tell if the LF2X is ramping up logarithmically or not. I can say for sure from lowest low it does seem to "jump" to a higher brightness very quickly, but then it still takes a (relatively) long time to get to the highest-high blink.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 27, 2008)

@tpchan how do you find the UI,is it hard to set levels? thanks.


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## kooter (Feb 27, 2008)

Titan, thats the only thing im worried about too. Setting the levels sounds like a nightmare. :sick2:


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 27, 2008)

kooter said:


> Titan, thats the only thing im worried about too. Setting the levels sounds like a nightmare. :sick2:


Well I will have plenty of time to figure it out,you will be the first to know when I get it figured if that will help at all


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## tpchan (Feb 27, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> @tpchan how do you find the UI,is it hard to set levels? thanks.


I've owned the LF2-P4 version for a long time, so I've never really found it difficult to set the levels. The included directions have always worked fine for me. I just have to carefully and quickly count the twists to get to the different setting levels that I want to change. 

That being said, the only real levels I've change regularly are the default P1, P2 levels and the User-adjusted mode level. The strobe and S.O.S levels seem fine to me so I've never really messed with them and I don't use them that much either.

The LF2X twists even cleaner for me than my LF2-P4, so that only make it easier to change settings. I should also note that I've always used a 10440 in my LF2 and plan to do the same for the LF2X.

I've run my LF2-P4 and LF3 for a good long time with P1 set at lowest low, P2 set at about 25% and left the user-adjustable mode at 50%. This way I get three light levels with a minimum of fuss. Someone else pointed out that I could do the same thing almost by just using the default P1, P2 of 15% and 50% and then just keep my user-adjustable mode at lowest-low. I'm trying that now and we'll see how I like that after a few days of EDC.

I also use the SWx5, battery meter mode fairly often. I always have SWx8 enabled for battery over-discharge protection. Of course I've used SWx10 for factory reset mode many times. So all in all, the LF2 and LF2X work just fine as long as you're not afraid to twist it a lot.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 27, 2008)

Thanks tpchan,lol it seems then we will be doing the dance"lets twist again like we did last summer" over and over. Ah well if I cant handle the twisting "i'll attach it to my dremel" :naughty: thanks anyway.


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## regulator (Feb 27, 2008)

My LF2X has been working great since the thorough cleaning with a proper electrical contact cleaner and my Ultrafire cell works fine in it now too. I wonder if there may have been a little debris in the threads that may have prevented the switch from screwing down at far as it should have - don't know but man am I happy.

I'm running a 10440 cell in mine and I presently have the P1 to the default 15%, P2 to defualt 50% and I set the User mode to an output equivelant to the LOD-CE on low. I like having easy access to the three levels. 

Occasionally I adjust the User level to a very low for when in complete darkness and navigating around the house. This is my favorite AAA light and it is a little jewel. Some may find it a bit slippery with the smooth finish but it is high quality and I like it. I am afraid to get any scratches on it or drop it because it looks so darn nice. 

I was already familiar with all the great features/functionality the LF2X has, but what has really made me happy is that it has output and runtime comparable to my LOD Q4 which is a benchmark to me. It even surpases the LOD by just a little bit in output (probably due to the Q5 vs Q4). I already did a "rough" runtime comparison at a medium setting and they ran for just about the same time.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 27, 2008)

Hopefully,my first impressions will be as good,but I can tell you this I hold no prisoners


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

regulator said:


> Thanks Titan. I looked around to see if there were any comparison pictures of the AW cells and Ultrafire showing the top button but did not find any.
> 
> BTW - I am hopeful that the electrical contact cleaner worked since my light seems much better so far. Maybe besides cleaning everything better the switch is seated/tightened much better after a few tries. Even the Ultrafire cell seems to work better now and does not require as much tightening to shut off.


Ok I can now confirm AW's fit perfectly got them both today :twothumbs


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## regulator (Feb 28, 2008)

Hi Titan,

If you get a chance do you think you could post a picture of the AW button top? Thanks


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

regulator said:


> Hi Titan,
> 
> If you get a chance do you think you could post a picture of the AW button top? Thanks


Here ya go.


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## Cemoi (Feb 28, 2008)

regulator said:


> I'm running a 10440 cell in mine and I presently have the P1 to the default 15%, P2 to defualt 50% and I set the User mode to an output equivelant to the LOD-CE on low.





tpchan said:


> I've run my LF2-P4 and LF3 for a good long time with P1 set at lowest low, P2 set at about 25% and left the user-adjustable mode at 50%.



A newbie question: what is the point in having a super-bright flashlight, with a state-of-the-art Cree XR-E Q5 LED, and not using it at more than 50%?


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

OK I give in and admit defeat the UI has me beat.:hairpull:
anyone? how do I get this to max output :thinking:

Thanks.


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## tpchan (Feb 28, 2008)

Cemoi said:


> A newbie question: what is the point in having a super-bright flashlight, with a state-of-the-art Cree XR-E Q5 LED, and not using it at more than 50%?


Because most of us are already using a Li-Ion 10440 cell in the LF2X, which at 50% power is brighter than 100% on a Ni-MH AAA or a regular AAA Akaline cell.

You can use the LF2X with a 10440 cell at 100% if you really want to impress someone but the light does get very hot very quickly and you're just killing the unprotected Li-Ion 10440 for no real good reason, with the super-high drain. While running at 50% with a 10440, can be done for a MUCH longer time and still be brighter than your Ni-MH or Akaline AAA running at 100%.


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## tpchan (Feb 28, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> OK I give in and admit defeat the UI has me beat.:hairpull:
> anyone? how do I get this to max output :thinking:
> 
> Thanks.


Okay, from the manual, you want to do a SWx2 to get into user-adjustable mode. Once in user-adjustable mode with your light at P1 you'll be in 50% output already by default factory setting. From there twist the light to P2 and the LF2X ramp up to MAX output. When it reaches max output the light will blink twice to let you know you're really at 100%. The other clue you'll have is the light starts to get HOT, very quickly!

To do a SWx2, you have twist quickly from P1 -> P2 ->P1, twice. This is not from the off position. So turn your light on to P1 or P2, note your starting point and do a SWx2 to get into user-mode.
That would either be:

P1->P2->P1->P2->P1 or
P2->P1->P2->P1->P2

From either starting position P1 or P2 you can do SWx2 and then you'll be in user mode. Once in user mode P1 become 50%, and twisting to P2 will either ramp up or down your flashlight. From factory default, it will ramp UP. Once you're at 100% if you then twist back to P1, the user-mode memory will be set and the next time you use user-mode you'll start at 100%. Don't forget to do SWx1 to get back to regular P1,P2 modes of 15 and 50%.

There are even youtube videos on how to set your LiteFlux light. Similar videos exist for the Arcmania MJP Extreme III, which also uses the LiteFlux interface. Search for the video in CPF or at youtube and you'll find them easily enough.


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## Tatexi (Feb 28, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> OK I give in and admit defeat the UI has me beat.:hairpull:
> anyone? how do I get this to max output :thinking:



I assume it has the same UI as with LF2, so you have several options:

- Adjust Mode 1 low (15%) or high (50%) to your liking by using the programming features found from Modes 5+ (can't remember which one, haven't really touched them)
- Adjust Mode 2 to 100% which is much easier:

1) Turn the light on to P1
2) Go to Mode 2 by doing P1-> P2 -> P1 -> P2 ->P1. You should end up with 50% output which is the default Mode 2 output.
3) Turn to P2. At this point your light should start getting either brighter or dimmer.
3.a) If it keeps getting brighter, wait some seconds (~10 or so) until you see the light blink one time. You are at 100% now. By turning to Mode 2 P1 you get the 100% output. If you turn to P2, you get the one blink to indicate you are at the 100%.
3.b) If it turns dimmer, you need to do step 2 again and proceed from there (by doing the "double twist" you turn the Mode 2 to go from dimming to brightening or the other way around).
4) Enjoy .

PS. Seems like tpchan beat me to it but oh well...


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## regulator (Feb 28, 2008)

Titan,

Thanks for the pictures. Turn the light on to P1. Go P2-P1-P2-P1 (now you are in the User mode with is factory 50%). Now from the P1 go to P2 and wait for a while and the light should be ramping up slowly. It will flash once the maximum setting is reached and stay there. If you now turn back to P1 and wait at least 2 -3 seconds before turning the light off it will have set the light to 100% next time you turn the ligth on (which will now always come on to this User mode until).

To get back to regular mode: turn the light on to P1 (still in User mode). Due a quick P2-P1 and now the P1 should be 15% and next time you turn the light on it will be in the regular mode.

Doh! Looks like someone already posted


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## kooter (Feb 28, 2008)

Got mine too, now time to play. :laughing:


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

Tatexi,tpchan and regulator thanks guys this will help others I'm sure :thumbsup:

@Kooter 



[edit] got it now guys thanks,one thing I now have a mini travel iron on max mode,how cool is that


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

@regulator did the pics help at all?


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## kooter (Feb 28, 2008)

I cant work this UI out.  I must be some sort of dohnut.  I guess i had better read the instructions now. :laughing:

Very nice quality bit of kit by the way. Well worth the 60 bucks. :thumbsup:


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

kooter said:


> I cant work this UI out.  I must be some sort of dohnut.  I guess i had better read the instructions now. :laughing:
> 
> Very nice quality bit of kit by the way. Well worth the 60 bucks. :thumbsup:


Kooter the guys replies here will help more than reading the manual,it's easy once you know how :devil:

And +1 on the price excellent IMHO.


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## regulator (Feb 28, 2008)

TITAN - yes they did. Looks like the tops are the same for both the AW and Ultrafire.

kooter - get the hang of the P1-P2 switching first. Try switching between Regular and User mode as described above to see how it works. Once you understand how it works it really is easy. I felt the same way with my first LF but it is easy after figuring it out (I know that sounds strange but it is true).


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

regulator said:


> TITAN - yes they did. Looks like the tops are the same for both the AW and Ultraf


 Great :twothumbs I'm using the AW's now no problems here everything works as it should and it turns off just fine.


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## kooter (Feb 28, 2008)

Quick comparison shot of a few AAAs.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

Thanks Kooter,did you squash down a AAA to get it to fit in that WEE by any chance :naughty:


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## kooter (Feb 28, 2008)

I chopped a lump of a AAA, and turned it into a 10180. :sick2:

Titan/regulator, thanks for your help. Im still trying to get used to it. :mecry:


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

I must say the LF2X is fast becoming my all time favorite light,the gun metal anodizing is the best I have come across perfect IMO.

The carry options are second to none,you choose they are all catered for.

The tint on mine is white as I asked for and it is a really bright little sucker on max.

Now I have said this before,but this is a keeper I like it alot :twothumbs


just one thing is bugging me,what is the little silver ring for? :thinking:


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## kooter (Feb 28, 2008)

Gotta agree with you Titan, the anodising is flawless. On a par with Surefire, or better. :thumbsup:


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## TeK (Feb 28, 2008)

> just one thing is bugging me,what is the little silver ring for? :thinking:



+1... I can't seem to figure it out either


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

TeK said:


> +1... I can't seem to figure it out either


So I am not completly mad.yet?


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## kooter (Feb 28, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> So I am not completly mad.yet?


 
Yes you are Titan. :nana:

Right, can i set p1 to 100%, and p2 to 10% ?

I have managed to get it to 100%, but thats on p1 and p2.


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

kooter said:


> Yes you are Titan. :nana:
> 
> Right, can i set p1 to 100%, and p2 to 10% ?
> 
> I have managed to get it to 100%, but thats on p1 and p2.


100% cool,now onto your other request :laughing: 
 as regulator has said learn that first patients grass hopper


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## TITAN1833 (Feb 28, 2008)

@kooter,right the trick is P1 TO P2 do not turn it off SWx2 is = to p1 to p2 4x and so on.


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## NetKidz (Feb 28, 2008)

TITAN1833 said:


> just one thing is bugging me,what is the little silver ring for? :thinking:



The threaded hole at the tail isn't deep, otherwise the total length will be longer. If your tripod's screw is longer and couldn't screw tight, just put it in between like a washer. 

Actually, it's part of pre-production LF3~5's 2-stage switch. :devil:


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## Cemoi (Mar 2, 2008)

A new version, called "LF2 X CREE Q5 BA Ver." has just shown up on the Liteflux website. BA might stand for "Bare Aluminium", see this thread in the general LED lights section.
A two dollar only discount to get a far less scratch proof coating.


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