# Ultimate small Maglite mod summary



## Frank Schwab (Jul 31, 2002)

I've spent a few weeks reading through this board trying to make sense of what mods are available for various small flashlights, concentrating on the various small MagLites sitting in my desk drawers. I thought I'd put together in one place everything I've learned.

For the Maglite Solitaire: (1 AAA battery):
The physical size of the light and modest power capacity of the single AAA battery limit the number of mods that have been done for this light. The options are:

Mod 1: The hottest ticket is to simply go buy an ARC AAA flashlight, it's almost the same size but has an electronics package to boost/regulate current. About $28:
http://www.arcflashlight.com/

Mod 2: The simplest mod. Replace the AAA battery with a garage door opener battery (MN21, 12V), and lengthen the spring in the tail of the flashlight. You can then replace the bulb with a T-1 (3 mm) LED (it plugs right in), and you'll have a pretty good little LED light, though the battery will only last an hour or so. Also, the light will dim noticeably after a few minutes of use, but will perk back up if you turn the light off for awhile before using it again.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000247

Mod 3: The Satcure circuit.
A single transistor step up circuit. I haven't been able to find any mention of efficiency for the circuit; anyone know?
http://edusite10.tripod.com/led3/onetran/single_tran.html
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000474
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000388
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000436

For the Mini-Maglite 2xAAA:
There don't seem to be many good mods.

For the Mini-Maglite 2xAA:
Lots of good mods. This is rich territory. Some of the experienced modders really prefer the Brinkman legend:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000275

Mod 1 - N Cells and an LED. Probably the simplest mod, though I think it significantly overdrives the LED (70-100 ma???). Replace the bulb in the head with your favorite 5mm LED (it plugs right in, if it doesn't light you have it in backwards). Then:

Ver 1. Replace the two AA cells with three 'N' cells. The N cells are skinnier than AA's, so it works best if you find some kind of tube to put the N cells in that keeps them from rattling around. Three N cells are also shorter than two AA's, so you'll need to either install some kind of spacer or replace the spring in the tailcap with a longer one.
http://www.elektrolumens.com/MINIMAG_LED/MINIMAG_LED.html
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000242

Ver 2. Replace the two AA cells with two 'N' cells, and one AAA cell. You still need the tube, but you no longer need a spacer.

Mod 2 - Put in a regulated current source.
1. Opalec NewBeam. $28
A complete drop-in replacement for the light/reflector assembly of a Mini-Mag, uses 3 white LEDs.
http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/reviews/opalec_newbeam.htm

2. MagPill (Illuminator Pill) from Lambda. $24.50
A step-up kit that replaces the switch assembly inside the head of your maglite:
http://home.mchsi.com/~lambda/minimag.htm
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=8&t=000472

3. MadMax-ADJ from Dat2Zip $12 + Luxeon Star
An efficient, slick kit that requires minor assembly:
http://home.attbi.com/~theledguy/hobby/flashlight_modifications.htm
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=8&t=000528

4. ZLT (++, CCR, CCR-2) from Mr. Al, Dugg, Mercator et al. 
Do-it-yourself with extensive discussions of circuit theory, etc., in the threads:
http://www.5thcolumn.org/zetex/project/
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=000983
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000422
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000432

5. Lambda Illuminator
A complete flashlight.
http://home.mchsi.com/~lambda/lambda1.htm

Anything else I've missed?

/frank


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## sunspot (Jul 31, 2002)

Frank, you sure have done your homework. This should be posted in the faq's section as a permanet referance.


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## dat2zip (Jul 31, 2002)

I think mod 2: refers to mod'ding a maglight solitaire or many single AAA flashlights but not the ARC AAA.

As I recall, you also need a resistor since 12 volts directly across an LED is not recommended.

Great list. I agree, for many newcomers this would help.

WayneY


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## Frank Schwab (Jul 31, 2002)

Both Mod 2 for the Solitaire, and Mod 1 for the 2xAA technically require a resistor installed. Both overdrive the LED without it. However, I read a lot of reports from people who did it without the resistor (as have I) and everything worked just fine, and NO reports from people who blew up their LED. YMMV.

/frank


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## remuen (Jul 31, 2002)

Hi Frank

Congratulation! You really have done a great job with this list


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## Lantern Jack O. (Jul 31, 2002)

Don't forget the 2 LED Solitaire mod. Details here and some additional updates/details here .

Re. the 12V Solitaire mods in general:
While the LED's don't exactly blow up if the resistor is left out, it does initially drive the LEDs way over spec when running a fresh battery w/o a resistor. I had better results using a resistor, even with the 2 LED version.


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## Alexis (Aug 1, 2002)

Jack,

How big of a resistor did you use for your solitaire mod?

Thanks


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## Lantern Jack O. (Aug 1, 2002)

I used 47 Ohms in the 2 series LED mod, and 100 Ohms in the single LED version. Even with those values, the LEDs are still overdriven when the battery is fresh. Probably double those values would be more appropriate for a fresh battery. Those 12V 'remote control' batteries lose voltage pretty quickly though, so I wanted the resistors to be somewhat undersized.

It's pretty simple to add a resistor to the battery spacer. Someone suggested putting the resistor inside a bit of drilled out 3/8" dowel rod, and then using the coiled up resistor leads on both ends as the contacts. I tried this, and it works very well. You can even make two or three spacers like this with different resistor values, and can then change to lower resistance (or no resistance) as the battery begins to wane


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## Frank Schwab (Aug 1, 2002)

Oops, while wandering through my bookmarks, I found a good mod for the 2xAAA Maglite using the Maxim Max1759. One or two White LEDs, includes PCB diagrams:

http://mikro.e-technik.uni-ulm.de/persons/lares/LED_flashlight_V2.PDF

/frank


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## remuen (Aug 2, 2002)

> Originally posted by Frank Schwab:
> *Oops, while wandering through my bookmarks, I found a good mod for the 2xAAA Maglite using the Maxim Max1759. One or two White LEDs, includes PCB diagrams:
> *


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The MAX1759 seems not to be a very good solution for a two cell flashlight because of its high minimum input voltage of 1.6 volts. So you can't suck your batteries really down. I suppose its efficiency also isn't very brilliant (didn't see the figures/diagramms in the data sheet). For me it seems to be a rather old chip. Another point: The 10uMax housings asks for a very experienced hand to solder it ....

Instead this IC I would recommand using eg. a MAX1722 which goes down to 0.8 volts input voltage - and it is in a much easier to solder SOT23-5 housing. If you can select your LEDs for eg. [email protected] volts you also can use the MAX1724 (same familiy as the MAX1722) which has a fixed output voltage of 3.3 volts and therefore uses some parts less.

Also the LT1932 IC from Linear Technology would be a better choice for two or three LEDs as it goes down to 1 volt input voltage and is in a SOT23 housing too. The LT1932 is current regulated so from this point of view it would be the better choice. You then can connect the LEDs in series and have the same current through all LEDs. I made very good experiences with the LT1932 in Minimag/Micromag-Mods (Minimag: 2 AA, Micromag 2 AAA) with 3 LEDs (they really also fit in a Micromag



) and it also runs very good with NiMH which provide only 2.4 volts even though the LT1932 works better with higher input voltages.

Added later:
------------
I almost have forgotten to mention the ZXSC300 IC from Zetex (the one used for the well known ZLT+ boost converter) which also is current regulated and in a SOT23 housing. This one would also be a very good choice especially because it also runs down to 0.8 volts input as the MAX1722/1724 ICs do.


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## mikep (Aug 2, 2002)

Frank, In the spirit of your "Mod 1", The easiest modification for the Mag 2XAAA is to give it away, and put the pocket clip on your Arc AAA.


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## Frank Schwab (Aug 2, 2002)

remuen -
whether it's the best possible choice or not isn't really the issue - it's a pretty good mod for a light that I found no other mods for. Now, being an Engineer, I can appreciate your arguments (and in fact have a Max1795 in my hot little hands that I have big plans for. The uMax package doesn't intimidate me, but the 0.85V startup spec intrigues me).

Besides, 1.6V isn't a big problem for a two-cell flashlight. By the time you've drained an Alkaline (or a rechargeable for that matter) down to 0.8V, it's pretty much dead. Most major battey manufacturers use 0.8V as the "dead" value in their spec sheets. Drawing down to 0.4V will give you a few more minutes of runtime, but nothing spectacular. 

/frank


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## remuen (Aug 2, 2002)

> Originally posted by Frank Schwab:
> *
> ... and in fact have a Max1795 in my hot little hands that I have big plans for...
> *


<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Frank, interested to see some figures with the MAX1797? Here they are: 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">code:</font><hr /><pre style="font-size:x-small; font-family: monospace;"> 
IC MAX1797
Board Rev2A
Date 06/30/2002
Cin 10uF Ceramic
Cout 22uF Ceramic
L 6.8uH (Murata LQH55)
R1, R2 250kohm pot
[email protected] 71mV with MrAl's Ripple Tester
Startup 0.71V

Input Output Eff
U I U I 
(V) (mA) (V) (mA) (%)
---------------------------------------
3.0 0754 3.70 518.0 84.7
2.4 0909 3.60 493.0 81.4
2.0 1044 3.55 454.0 77.2
1.6 1005 3.39 346.0 72.9
1.5 0996 3.36 321.0 72.2
1.2 0968 3.23 242.0 67.3
1.0 0951 3.14 191.0 63.1
</pre><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">The MAX1795 will probably give you some better efficiency results as the MAX1675 does compared to the MAX1674. 

I used this MAX1797 for some of my LS Minimag mod. I tried to convert it into a current regulated boost converter using a high side current sense monitor from Zetex but I didn't bring it to work (after a first test I didn't try this again because I had no time to work on my circuits ...


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## Frank Schwab (Aug 2, 2002)

I like those numbers! The efficiency doesn't look great, but good enough for my purposes. Of course, I'm only looking for 30-90 ma output. Looks like its got the balls to do that with no sweat. 

Thanks,

/frank


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## Steelwolf (Sep 14, 2002)

Awww, Frank, you missed my mod!!








It was a UKE-2AAA mod using a SatCure type circuit (full version with all the capacitors, etc.) arranged to be the size of a AAA battery and encased in plastic.

The UKE-2AAA has a side-by-side battery configuration and this mod sits just behind the lamp assembly (which has been replaced with a LED of course).

It has an initial output similar to the Arc-AAA, but seems to dim steadily over its 5-7 hour life, ie. no regulation, just straight boost. The SatCure circuit will run on as little as 0.6V and will run on dead batteries that wouldn't even power the Arc, but the light output is understandably dim by that time.

When the batteries are fresh, the LED light is 2/3 as bright as the original xenon lamp. The original lamp will run about 2-3 hours on 2xAAA, steadily dimming and yellowing all the way. The LED mod will dim, but not yellow, and do it over a 6-hour period with 1xAAA. The case is not touched, so the light is still waterproof to manufacturer specifications. The entire lamp assembly is replaced when the bulb burns out, which means that one can still change back to the xenon light if needed.


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## Frank Schwab (Sep 14, 2002)

Well, you didn't list a link for it, now did you?

I was gonna update this in the near future with links to Dat2Zip's latest Badboy and Madmax stuff anyway, so if you find the links, I'll include them.

/frank


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## CM (Sep 14, 2002)

Been lurking around here a few weeks now and recently signed up. This is probably my fifth post so I'm still a newbie. 

I've played around with the Zetex mod at http://www.5thcolumn.org/zetex/project/ and looked at the app note on Zetex's website on driving the Luxeon. I noticed everyone incorporates the rectifier diode and the capacitor in their circuits. Why not just drive the LS directly from the inductor? Efficiency goes up nearly 10% (in the low 90%). I've used this method and cannot tell the difference using the shottky and cap. Yes, I've built two circuits with and without. What you get is an LED driven with pulses in the 20kHz or more range. Your eyes CANNOT see this pulse rate. I actually looked at the waveforms of the switcher on an oscilloscope to verify the switching rate. (Yes, I'm a nerd engineer.) What you gain is the elimination of the Shottky forward voltage and the losses due to the ESR in the caps. You also eliminate two parts. So, all you need is two IC's, an inductor, and a sense resistor (wire), four parts in all. Got the IC's from Digi-Key, two Lumileds as free samples from Future (our company has a major account with them so I get a few perks) I've got this circuit powering up a Luxeon in a modified Surefire 6Z (I like the tail switch) and also a two C-cell Pelican light. The C-cell pelican light has over 17 hours use (I stopped when I lost track of time)and it still has nearly the same brightness as the Surefire mod with one DL123 lithium with a battery spacer. 17 hours on the same set of batteries with almost full brightness, I'm happy. Boy I love these LED's! As far as efficiency, I estimate I should get 19-20 hours using 90+% efficiency and 8300mAH capacity of C cells. Did I say I love these LED's? Boy I do love these LED's!!! Now I need to go make some more mods...


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## InTheDark (Sep 14, 2002)

CM,
Do you have any runtime graphs or data for your circuit? I've been using a lot of Zetex circuits for my mods, but if I can eliminate a couple of components and raise efficiency, then I'd be very interested. Does eliminating the cap and diode have any adverse effect and the regulating? thanks


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## CM (Sep 14, 2002)

I apologize for not having any quantitative data (graphs, we all love graphs here). I will work on getting a proper setup for data gathering since I myself am curious also.

As far as adverse effects of eliminating the cap and diode in the Zetex circuit, there is none. In fact, it is beneficial, IMHO. Here's why. When you have the cap and diode in the circuit, the LED is always forward biased because when the inductor discharges, the diode conducts, forward biasing the LED. When the inductor is charging, the cap is dumping its charge across the LED. Now let's take out the rectifier and cap. The LED is only forward biased when the inductor is discharging. While the inductor charges, the LED is OFF. Why is this better? LED power dissipation. In the former, there is a higher AVERAGE voltage across the LED. In the latter, the average is lower. So now you may ask, "Won't I get less light output with less power?" Yes, and no. Your eyes only sense the peak of the emission. Since the LED is switched on and off several hundred kHz (I made an error in my last post), you do not "see" when the LED is in the OFF condition, it's happening too fast. I present the ubiquitous flourescent light as an example. It is powered by AC which reverses direction at 60Hz. We cannot see this since most eyes cannot detect such rapid changes. Now the LED is switched about 10,000 times faster so we won't see that either. 

I'm guessing the Zetex circuit (the one in their website app note) was designed by a power supply engineer who is used to designing supplies for CMOS circuits. Almost all (Linear Tech, National, Maxim, etc) DC-DC switchers have this Shottky diode/cap arrangement at the output. This is because the application demands low ripple voltage. In the case of LED's ripple voltage is really a don't care. So, bottom line, you can get rid of the Schottky and cap. Hope this helps. 

I wil try to post some quantitative results, or at least some beam shots. I just got a nice Arc LS I've been dying to compare my mods with (the Arc LS is a very nice light). I'll probably stick to testing with AA's since I can deplete those in a reasonable amount of time. C batteries will take too long and I'm not going to automate this process; I'd rather spend money on flashlights ;-)

Cheers

CM


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## Hemingray (Sep 19, 2002)

If white light output isn't a requisite, a very simple and fast mod I have done for a 2AA Maglite is to pull the bulb, and plug in a red or red/orange HP "traffic signal" type LED. If it doesn't light, turn it around 180 degrees and try again. No resistor, or regulator needed. The reflector will have to be modified, the rear part with the "fins" will have to be ground down, and the bulb hole enlarged to fit the 5 mm LED (I haven't tried a 3 mm in the AA lite). I have modded two for myself and several for friends.
Hint: don't use a Radio Shack red LED, it will become a dark-emitting diode in short order. The LEDs I use were from E-bay a few years ago, got about 600 of them for $30 at the time. The HPs are tuff enuff to take the overdrivin' and keep on shinin'.



Similarly, a 3mm red LED of sufficient strength can be used in a 2AAA MiniMag. The red light is good for night vision preservation, and is bright enough for most uses.
InReTech also makes a plug 'n' play red LED (also white, blue and UV) plug-in for the 2AA. Either alkalines or NiMH AAs can be used in the light.
I also did up another mod using six HP red "oval"LEDs and a single round 5MM in the center, on a little round board. Sure, it works well, but it wasn't real easy. The seven LEDs are in parallel, I use the leads from the center one to plug into the MagLite's pinholes. It is impressively bright for a 2AA non-Luxeon or Lumiled modded light.





/ed in NH


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## Quickbeam (Sep 19, 2002)

For reference: 

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/solitaire.htm 

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/solitaire2.htm 

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/steve_c_soliltaire.htm 

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/yc_satcure_sol.htm 

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/alaska_legend.htm (essentially the same as the solitaire mod)

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/magaaled.htm

http://thelightsite.cruxial.com/mods/lambda_ill_pill.htm


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## Klaus (Sep 19, 2002)

some more

2AA Mag using 2 Lithium AAs and 1 or more LEDs
2AA Mag using 3 x 2/3AA NiMhs and 1 or more LEDs
2AAA Mag using 3 x 2/3 AAA NiMhs and 1 LED

Regarding resistors - I originally used the 2AAA with 3 2/3 AAA NiMhs and a 20 Ohm resistor as it was overdriving the heck out of the poor LED when fully loaded - this created some issues and I just lately measured some of the LEDs we got from Matt and found one which happily runs without resistor due to its higher forward voltage - so be aware that with Nichias as well as Luxeons these parts vary so widely that using a resistor or not will just be true for that single part you have on hand and the next one could be totally different - just realize the very wide spread both companies spec their products at - my personal experiece is that the quantity of the various parts at different voltage levels will follow a hill-type curve thing with the most quantity being in the middle area of the spec´ed voltage and the more the voltage is at the upper or lower limits the rarer they get - but this is just my 2 cents as usual






Klaus


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## andyng55 (Sep 27, 2002)

Hi,
i tried on this 









regards,
Andy


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## Lucien (Sep 27, 2002)

CM,

Does removing the output diode and cap also work for the ZLT-CCR (and CCR2) circuits?

10%... That's a big improvement. I can't wait to build one of my own...


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## CM (Sep 27, 2002)

Lucien: I'm not familiar with the ZLT-CCR, can you enlighten me? Note, the 10% is the manufacturer's claim in their data sheet. I suspect it's a bit less than that, but hey efficiency is efficiency.

StanH: I think it doesn't hurt the LS. What you need to worry about is the amplitude of the pulsed current and I measured this to be neglible using an O-scope and a VERY small sense resistor in line with the LED (on the order of a few milliohms. The LED is a bit capacitive and this helps dampen the current a bit, plus you have so much circuit parasitics also. I'm using a 22uH inductor (Coilcraft DT3316 series). You want to minimize the DCR of the inductor to minimize I^2*R losses. So pick an inductor with a very low DCR of a few hundred milli-ohms or less. The toroid approach in other's circuits is probably the best way to go. The sense resistor is in the low tens of milliohms (hard to measure that accurately). I used magnet wire trimmed to give me about 0.5A from the battery. Here's my circuit measurements:

I(battery)=490mA
V(battery) under load=2.5V

I(LED)=345mA
V(LED)=3.3V

If you calculate efficiency, it is about 93%. Seems high, but within the specs of the Zetex part. Watch out using an ammeter though since it adds resistance in series with whatever you're measuring with (this gives you a small error of a few percent). The LED gets warm but not hot so the 345mA seems reasonable.

Cheers


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## Lucien (Sep 27, 2002)

CM,
The post about the ZLT-CCR is here. Its the original ZLT+ circuit with constant current regulation. There's also a later post about a ZLT-CCR2, a simpler version of the CCR, with less parts, though I believe the current regulation is not as effective (But better than nothing right?).


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## StanH (Sep 28, 2002)

CM
Do you still believe that the ZLT1 circuit without the schottky diode and output cap is the way to go? What values are you using for the inductor and the sense resistor? Any clue as to a reasonable current reading with this setup?


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## rufusbduck (Feb 16, 2013)

For the Solitaire, I use a 10440 and a pill consisting of 2 - 7135 chips soldered via the ground tab to the underside of a 10mm copper disc. Potted in Fujik with a positive contact pad and led + and - wires passing through the disc to the emitter pcb. Optic is Ledil Lisa. Also done is a cut down version using 10180 cell and 1 - 7135 chip. 
For the 2AAA the pill is a 1A 7135 driver with the driver cut and the 7135's stacked so the whole thing fits in the battery tube. Again, the wires pass from a positive contact disc to the board and on through a negative contact disc to the led pcb. The battery tube is cut to the length of the new pill and one 10440. 
For the AA Minmag, I bore the head to 20 mm, add some fins, and use a 6 chip driver to power either an XML or 3 x Nichia/xp-g2 from a 14650 cell. Again the tube is cut for the cell. All three lights work very well and only the AA gets very warm on high. All get warm to some degree.


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## Hoop (Feb 17, 2013)

You revived a thread that is over a decade old! That takes serious macho.


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## rufusbduck (Feb 17, 2013)

Yes, the thread is old but the mods I outline are newer additions to the list and since Maglites are still here and still a popular host for modders I thought I'd share. Plus, it's interesting to see the changes that have taken place over time. Old, yes. Relavant, also yes. I did a search and chose this thread as the most appropriate one for my post. No macho intended.


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## rockhound42 (Apr 29, 2013)

Anyone know if the 2aaa head fits on the solitaire body? not got a 2aaa or i would have tried it......


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## mcbrat (Apr 30, 2013)

rockhound42 said:


> Anyone know if the 2aaa head fits on the solitaire body? not got a 2aaa or i would have tried it......



No. Solitaire threads are finer, plus smaller diameter. The tailcaps do interchange however. Not that that buys you anything.


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## bshanahan14rulz (Apr 30, 2013)

rufusbduck said:


> For the 2AAA the pill is a 1A 7135 driver with the driver cut and the 7135's stacked so the whole thing fits in the battery tube. Again, the wires pass from a positive contact disc to the board and on through a negative contact disc to the led pcb. The battery tube is cut to the length of the new pill and one 10440.



I'd like to see some pics of your 2xAAA mod. I've got parts to make a 2xAAA mod "sleeper" style (i.e. not modding the host external, only clue will be the optic instead of reflector/bulb). I am planning to mount LED at top of body, so that the head with optic can be removed for candle mode. Unfortunately, still trying to make time and space for this years old project (Originally planned on using a new Cree XP-E warm white (7C) when they first first came out. Probably move to Nichia 219 if this project gains traction). 

Thanks for sharing your mag mods


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## NeilP (Nov 20, 2014)

Yes, I love resurrecting the dead threads too, I found another earlier this morning, but not as macho as a thread that is over 10 years old 

Yes, I too have the same question and request for pics and more details.

Basic background . Good with basic electronics, repaired a few e-bike controllers...well replaced burnt out mosfets..if the SMD drivers blow, then I am F&*^^*d. so ...and do basic stuff like wire up a driver board, a bit of lathe work etc.

So come on, lets see some pics one year on, is it still working?


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## Icarus (Nov 20, 2014)

Did you see my MiniMag mods? No? Then try the link in my sigline.  All pictures of all mods posted are still available! 
BTW I'm working on a few new MiniMag mods right now.  I love those little gems. :rock:


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## NeilP (Nov 20, 2014)

Doh...no sorry I missed that one...i did do a search though for AAA conversions.

Cheers for th follows ups .to all my posts.


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