# LED Module for SF 8AX



## nein166 (Jun 14, 2007)

The 8AX was the first Surefire I bought because its rechargeable. Soon after I found out about the L7. More runtime and still good output, but I didn't feel like shelling out anymore cash. So I waited and planned out my own upgrade. I wanted a LED light that would last for an entire shift if necessary. With 2 batteries its gotta run for 4 hours, though it would be a bad day(second shift actually) if I was in the dark for 8 hours straight. And of course it has to be brighter. 







The module runs off a GD750 buck/boost driver mounted in a custom heatsink. I reused the spring assembly from a SF X80 Lamp Assembly. On the other side of the heatsink sits a USVOI SSC emitter. The reflector used is a dremel modified McR-27, Thanks to Wayne at the Sandwich Shoppe for getting more of these in stock.






The heatsink has a rim sanded down to allow the SSC to protrude into the reflector .03''. No need for a spacer since its all custom. The reflector will go all the way forward to rest on the glass in the head. I took out the glass and square cut o-ring behind it. Then I cut a 1'' ID o-ring in half so the reflector rests on it instead of the glass. The spring pressure can be alot and if dropped I worried about breaking the glass and the module ejecting. The o-ring will prevent this from happening.
Theres not much more to this module, a bit of AAE around the heatsink to contact the head. It runs off the stock battery and my upgraded NiMH Sub-C stick. A runtime test will be conducted this weekend. The 3 NiMH cells are 3300mAh so I estimate 4 hours. And at the emitter a rated 170lumens @ 750ma its an awesome upgrade.





Sorry for the blurry image, the bulkhead in the heatsink has 4mm clearance in the back for the driver




2 AAE pads made for the LED legs to prevent grounding






Ready for solder and epoxy




Height comparison




After removal of reflector steps and a view of the NiMH stick, sorry no o-ring shot

Anyone else out there make something like this for their own?


----------



## nein166 (Jun 14, 2007)

*Instant Update*

Instant Update with Beamshots. The mail came and so did an aspheric lens from Surplus Shed. I took Beamshots of the old and new modules with the flat lens and the aspheric. Thanks to Surefire's dynomite you break it we replace it policy I have an extra bezel from when I cracked the glass. It wasn't a bad crack but then I got welding sparks and molten metal imbedded in the Pyrex lens oo: Note to self don't put it on the bench when welding. So on to the pictures...






Look it works with the beamdiffuser





X80 Flat Lens





SSC 750 Flat Lens





X80 Asphere





SSC 750 Asphere





The aspheric lens doesn't do much better than the McR-27 and with the reflector in the mix I get alot of speckled sidespill. Kinda cool and always another lesson learned. Maybe I'll make a Cree Module next for the Aspheric Lens.


----------



## nein166 (Jun 16, 2007)

Does anyone else still use one of these lights?


----------



## skalomax (Jun 16, 2007)

This is the First LED 8AX I've seen.

Seems like It produces good output.

How's the throw with the Aspherical Lense?


----------



## nein166 (Jun 17, 2007)

skalomax said:


> This is the First LED 8AX I've seen.
> 
> Seems like It produces good output.
> 
> How's the throw with the Aspherical Lense?


 
Not so good, I don't have a bare LED to use. All the peel that is light orange on the reflector is visible in the image projected. I need to set it up with a black spraypainted reflector and a cree to really test the aspheric lens. I don't think it will be better than the McR-27 reflector :mecryh well live and learn.


----------



## cnjl3 (Jun 18, 2007)

I have one. 
Bought it for the same reason -rechargeable solution.
I mostly use it with the 'Turbohead' with Silverfox upgraded B90 sticks
I will most likely keep mine incandescent only because i like the beam 
from my 'Turbohead'.
Nice build!



nein166 said:


> Does anyone else still use one of these lights?


----------



## nein166 (Jun 27, 2007)

Finally got around to doing a runtime test, the light ran for 3:15 hours and then started blinking. I wasn't around to watch it the whole time but I imagine the output was solid thru the first 2 hours. It seemed like it was at full power when I walked by at 90 and 120 minutes. In the end the battery was 3volts at rest and 1.8volts under load.


I just noticed batteryspace has some 4500 maH sub-C cells, real pricey but maybe worth it if they hold for an extra hour.


----------



## Icarus (Jun 28, 2007)

:goodjob: Nice mod! :thumbsup:

I have an 8AX I planned to mod to led but never got to it... :shrug:
I was thinking about modding the X80 lamp assembly into a led module? Do you think this isn't possible? :thinking:


----------



## Icarus (Jul 2, 2007)

:bump:


----------



## nein166 (Jul 3, 2007)

*On to the battery*

Moving on to the battery in the light I'm noticing the NiMH gets really hot and heat is bad.

I noticed that inside the B90 Charger there is the word NiMH writen on the circuit board. Across a jumpered spot labeled SW1 there is also NiCd writen on the PCB. The NiMH section is missing a few resistors and SW1 is jumped out on the NiCd side. It seems to me like this Charger could be set up with a switch to charge either kind of battery. Theres even a hole in the backplate under the instruction sticker.

Anybody else notice this on their new model charger with a Flashing Green LED?

Thank you Icarus! Your Mods Rock!


----------



## Icarus (Jul 3, 2007)

So, you don't think it is possible to mod the X80 lamp assembly into a led module? :thinking:


----------



## nein166 (Jul 3, 2007)

Icarus said:


> So, you don't think it is possible to mod the X80 lamp assembly into a led module? :thinking:


 
Sorry I missed your Question here is my experience and thoughts about modding an X80

Well I tried that with a SSC and it didn't focus well. 
I had to take ~2mm off the bottom to open the hole wide enough to get the SSC to poke thru.
Truthfully I don't have the equipment to remove metal, a hacksaw and Dremel only goes so far.
I opened it enough to get the entire emitter in there, maybe just the dome like in a IMS20 will work.
But then you have a longer module, maybe the springs can be cut back.

I ruined the Orange Peel coating and scrapped the idea. I was able to save it for my fishtank light.
I used 400-2000 grit sandpapers and then shined with Simichrome polish.
Its running a LUXIII TWOK with bad focus but all the light goes into the tank at 8" above it.

I tried the XR-E but had made the hole too big already. 
If one milled a slot for the base of an XR-E and 
then bored a hole for the ring it may be possible. 
However your limited in room for a driver. 
Maybe a SMT hanging off the side of the XR-E 
as an inline resistor running DD.


----------



## yellow (Jul 3, 2007)

I got the "usual" SF-way 
started with a 6R, moved on to 8X and ended with a 9N.

The 8X was modded with a Lux III summer last year, or so.
Heatsink pushed in from the back side, using a small self wound spring,
normal LA-springs for contact.
A mobdar optic from the front (fits inside with some changes), gets hold by the bezel.

Thinking of upgrading and multistaging (difficult) with Cree, but the actual lights (6P and Inova T1) on Cree, Flupic and 18650 were more important. 
Still that larger batt is an important plus for the 8X, but the switch is a big minus
(when going for drivers like Flupic and such)


----------



## Icarus (Jul 3, 2007)

:thanks: to both of you for sharing your experiences. :thumbsup:
Sooner or later I'll have to try it myself.  
I was also thinking about using a flupic and 18650 cell.


----------



## nein166 (Jul 4, 2007)

I considered the 18650 option and thought of using 2 in parrallel.
Butt to butt in the center for one (-) and 2(+) wires running to a contactor at the springs end.
Lots more runtime, less wieght, and still rechargeable.
The problem was getting the light to work that way.

----

I also thought of a circular board with a microswitch on it. That way the momentary would be a clickie and the springs could go away making room for a driver and heatsink. But that would require some kind of battery holder with the switch in the tail end. Once again I don't have a lathe for such things.


----------



## hunduh (Jul 12, 2007)

Wow - this is waaaay to complicated for me....I dont speak electronics....If you need a carburator rebuilt or something shot up, I can help.......Let me try a different approach to this....what would it cost me to have someone make up an LED to replace my X80 reflector? What do I tell this person to make for me...Cree, XRE...Lux III, IMS20?? I have no idea what the difference is...All I know is that I want a much brighter and whiter 8X


Hunduh


----------



## Policetacteam (Aug 11, 2007)

I am in the same boat as hunduh. I just want to upgrade the X80 lamp. If its an LED that's great! If its just a brighter bulb that would be great too!! This is my duty light and its currently not working so I'm looking for a quick solution and fast!!!


----------



## nein166 (Aug 11, 2007)

Policetacteam said:


> I am in the same boat as hunduh. I just want to upgrade the X80 lamp. If its an LED that's great! If its just a brighter bulb that would be great too!! This is my duty light and its currently not working so I'm looking for a quick solution and fast!!!


I'm all out of quick solutions but I do have an X80 bulb in the bag.
Bought an extra last time one blew out on me and now its of no use.
PM me if your interested.


----------



## Chrontius (Aug 15, 2010)

Does this thing sit up against the glass, or against the lip inside the head where the reflector normally sits?


----------



## nein166 (Aug 15, 2010)

Chrontius said:


> Does this thing sit up against the glass, or against the lip inside the head where the reflector normally sits?


Its on the glass, wasn't a problem for the 2 years I used it on the job.


----------

