# Olight S15R (XM-L2, 1x14500/AA) Rechargeable + Dock Review: BEAMSHOTS, RUNTIMES+



## selfbuilt (Dec 17, 2014)

Welcome to my Olight S15R review. :wave:

Olight has recently updated their popular Baton series of lights (S10/S15/S20) with a new rechargeable version option (known by the "R" addition to the model name). These new "R" version lights are very similar to previous generation Baton lights, except they all come with an Olight-branded 3.7V Li-ion battery, and desktop USB-charging dock. 

Given the large number of comparisons required, I've decided to process these into three individual reviews for the S10R (for 1xCR123A/RCR), S15R (for 1x14500/AA/NiMH) and S20R (for 1x18650) separately. Note that the user interface and charging design are common to all three models, and will be repeated in each review.

Let's get how things shape up for the S15R, especially in comparison to the S15 (2013) that I reviewed previously. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: CREE XM-L2 Cool White
1 x 750mAh 3.7v 14500 rechargeable lithium battery included
Output (ANSI)/Runtime: High: 280 Lumens/0.75 Hours, Medium: 70 Lumens/4 Hours, Low: 7 Lumens/32 Hours, Moonlight: 0.5 Lumens/360 Hours
Peak beam intensity: 2,700 cd _(Reviewer's note: this is inconsistent with the beam distance measure below)_
Max beam distance: 84 m
NEW Low-profile side switch featuring a battery power indicator, which glows red when battery runs low
NEW Includes patent-pending Micro-USB charging dock and a 14500 750mAh rechargeable battery
NEW Thermal management safety program provides overheating protection by dropping high output to medium output after 15 minutes of constant on.
NEW Glow-in-the-dark o-ring in bezel to help locate flashlight from accidentally dropping it
99% light transmittance rate through tempered glass, with two-sided anti-reflective coating
Multi-function side switch with four brightness levels, plus a strobe mode
Automatically return to your last brightness level with the built in memory function
Removable two-position pocket clip
Flat tailcap with strong magnet, giving you the ability to use the light as a hands-free worklight
Highly reliable 6061-T6 aluminum alloy structure with ant-scratch, Type-III hard anodizing with a stainless steel bezel to protect against drops
Reverse polarity protection to prevent improper battery installation
Low standby current below 1.5uA
IPX-7 (waterproof up to 1m)
Impact resistant to 5 ft / 1.5m
Flashlight Body: 3.60 in/91.4cm x 0.91 in/23cm 
Charging Dock: 2.17 in/55.1mm x 1.97 in/50mm x 0.63 in/16mm
Weight: 43g/ 1.52 oz (body excluding batteries), 24g/ 0.85 oz (charging dock)
MSRP: ~$60
One comment to the specs above – despite using a similar voltage source battery (i.e., 3.7V Li-ion), the S15R is not driven as hard on max as the S10R. This will result in lower Hi output and reduced beam intensity/distance. As such, I would expect the beam distance measure above is more accurate (compared to the S10R specs). But scroll down for actual measures on my sample.














The packaging has been updated from the original 2013 edition S15, and no longer includes a 2xAA extender. Inside the clear plastic container is the S15R (with Olight 14500 battery installed), extra o-rings, split ring, good quality wrist lanyard, product insert, manual, charging dock base, micro-USB cable for dock, adhesive gel-pad for dock, gel-pad installation manual. As before, there is also an overview of specs on the bottom and back of the packaging.





From left to right: Olight RCR (650mAh), S10R, Olight 14500 (750mAh), S15R; Olight 18650 (2600mAh), S20R.













From left to right: Panasonic Eneloop Pro, Olight 14500, S15R, S15 (2013); Nitecore EA1; Skilhunt DS15; Zebralight SC52; L3 Illumination L10.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed:

*Olight S15R*: Weight: 47.6g (69.2g with Olight 14500), Length: 89.6mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm
*Olight S15*: Weight: 46.4g, Length: 87.0mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm

*Fenix LD12*: Weight: 52.3g, Length: 99.9mm, Width (bezel): 21.6mm
*Nitecore MT1A*: Weight: 54.6g, Length: 104.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.7mm
*Nitecore SENS AA*: Weight: 26.1g, Length: 82.7mm, Width (bezel): 19.8mm
*L3 Illumination L10*: Weight: 20.7g, Length: 79.4mm, Width (bezel): 17.1mm
*Lumintop ED15*: Weight: 59.7g, Length: 100.2, Width (bezel): 21.9mm
*Skilhunt DS15*: Weight: 52.0g, Length: 92.1mm, Width (bezel): 24.0mm
*Thrunite T10S*: Weight: 60.9g; Length: 93.7mm, Width (bezel): 17.8mm, Width (widest): 18.7mm
*Xeno E03:*: Weight: 48.1g, Length 96.7mm, Width (bezel): 21.5mm 
*Zebralight SC52*: Weight 39.5g, Length 79.0mm, Width (bezel): 22.6mm, Width (max) 25.4mm

Overall dimensions are similar to the S15 (2013), except the S15R is slightly heavier and longer now (likely to accommodate the charging circuitry). 


















Physically, the new "R" editions of the Baton lights look generally similar to the 2013 editions of regular Baton family. These lights remain relatively petite for their respective classes. Lights come with black anodizing (matte finish) and bright white labels. Although still without typical knurling, the raised checkered patterns on the body help with grip. With the reversible pocket clip attached, I'd say grip is good. What has changed is the button and tailcap design, which I will get to in a moment.

The bi-directional pocket clip is comparable to the earlier models, no real change here. It seems to hold onto the light fairly securely. I personally like it, as you can clip it on you in either orientation (i.e., bezel-up or bezel-down carry), although it might be rough on clothing given how tightly it fits. Note that the S15/S15R uses the same clip as the S20/S20R – which is longer than the S10/S10R.

In the head, the same sort of small spring and plastic surround is present, as on the original S15. This means that flat-top 14500 cells should work. Note that the length tolerances are tight for protected 14500. Even with the supplied Olight 14500, you really need to crank the tailcap tight to make contact.

The R-series tailcaps have been re-designed with a new charging dock feature – but otherwise functions as before. The S15R uses the same square-cut screw threads as before, still anodized for tail lock-out. Light can tailstand, and there is a split-ring/lanyard attachment hole on the side of the tail cap as before. And the tailcap still has a strong magnet, to allow the light to stand horizontally off any vertical metal surface. That said, I don't find the magnet quite as powerful as before. This means you may not be able to get the S15R to hold as stably off a small piece of metal (like a screw head on plastic plate cover, for example). It also does not seem to be removable now, as it is integral to how the charger functions.

What is new on the tailcap are the two exposed metal areas – an outside ring, and a recessed inner circular contact. These connect magnetically to the charging dock. I am happy to report that there is no open voltage at the tailcap, so there is no risk of accidentally shorting the 14500 battery inside the light. Scroll down for discussions of the dock and charging process.

As with the earlier model, the S15R uses an electronic switch in the head for on/off and mode changing. The button design has updated though – the hard plastic switch is now slightly recessed behind a raised metal surround. This means that the risk of accidental activation is now greatly reduced.

A second change is the addition of a low voltage warning sensor under the switch (visible through the clear pinhole opening in the middle). The earlier S15 model lacked a low voltage sensor (previously present only on the S20). The red LED below the switch will light up and flash as the battery nears exhaustion.

The head of the light is relatively unchanged, with a flat stainless steel bezel ring as before. However, the standard red o-ring has been replaced with GITD blue one. 






The S15R uses the same XM-L2 Cool White emitter and smooth reflector as the previous S15 (2013). The emitter remains well centered on my samples. Please scroll down for beamshots.

_Olight Battery_














All the new R-version models come with an appropriately-sized Olight-branded battery (3.7V Li-ion). Rated capacity of the 14500 included on the S15R is 750mAh, which is about typical for this class. Scroll down for actual testing results.

As mentioned before, tolerances are tight for length on the S15R. I find you really need to crank the tailcap tight on my sample, in order for the S15R to run on its supplied 14500 (no problem with standard AA cells, which are shorter). :shrug:

_Charging Dock_


































The new charging dock for the R-series lights has an interesting design. The desktop dock connects by a supplied micro-USB 2.0 cable for a standard USB port (no AC adapter supplied, but you can easily find an after-market one). Note that the charging docks are common for all three R-models, so all are limited to the standard 500mA max charge rate of USB 2.0. See a charging analysis later in this review.

The is an adhesive gel pad supplied with the dock, in case you want to semi-permanently mount the dock on your desk.

Charging contact is made through those two metal areas on the base of the light's tailcap. Thanks to the magnetic attraction, this firmly holds the light in place, and allows charging to commence. A similar magnetic mechanism is used on the Klarus lights, though without the flat desktop mount dock. 

A LED on the dock lights up constant red during charging (slowly flashing red when no light is present, or if an error is detected). The dock is supposed to terminate the charge and go green once the battery is fully charged (~4.2V). In practice however, this initial batch of lights has an issue in fully charging the cells. On my S10R, the dock charging terminates and the indicator starts flashing red once the RCR reaches a resting voltage of ~4.13V. On the S15R and S20R, the dock terminates and the indicator goes green – but the 14500/18650 batter is again only ~4.14V. I understand from Olight that they plan to fix this on subsequent batches, to allow charging up to the typical ~4.2V. 

Personally, this is not a big issue for me, as it is better to consistently under-charge Li-ion than over-charge (i.e., better for the health of your cells). And you can always take the cell out of the light and charge separately if you want. 

The "Extended" USB port on the dock is a secondary output port. Basically, with the dock plugged into a power source, this provides a pass-through to charge other USB-based devices (e.g., cell phone, tablet, etc.), up to a 2A charging current. Of course, for that kind of charging, you are better off using an AC adapter for the input source (i.e., I wouldn't want to to push a standard USB port too hard).

Scroll down for an overview of specifics of the charging process, along with other performance characteristics of the light.

*User Interface*

The R-series interface is unchanged from the 2013 models of the Baton series.

As before, a quick press and release (i.e., click) of the electronic switch turns the light on or off. 

Mode switching is controlled by holding down the electronic switch. The light will cycle between Lo – Med – Hi, in repeating sequence. As before, simply release the switch to select your desired mode. The light has mode memory – if you turn it off/on, the light returns to your previous level.

The R-series lights continue to features the ultra-low "Moonlight" level. You access this mode directly from off by a sustained (>1 sec) press-and-hold of the switch from off. This is a nice feature, as it means you can always turn the light on in the lowest possible mode if you want (i.e., no matter where you memorized it before). Mode cycling and memory works as before, once on.

You can physically lock out the light by a twist of the tailcap, as before. The "soft lock-out" is similarly unchanged - hold the switch down from off for >2 secs, the light shuts itself off (i.e., after one second of the Moonlight mode). You will not be able to use the light until you unlock it (by pressing-and-holding the switch for >2secs again). Note that this means that if you want Moonlight, you must release the switch before the lock-out takes effect (hold the switch between 1 and 2 secs). To unlock, simply press and hold the switch for more than 1 sec now.

There is still a "hidden" strobe mode, accessed by double-clicking the switch when on. Double-click again to return to constant on (or turn off and on).

Note that there is an undocumented "short cut" to jump to Hi from off: simply double-click the switch from off.

*Video*: 

For information on the new R-series lights, including the build, user interface and dock charging, please see my video overview of the recent models:



For all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

As an aside, if you want to get an instant notification for every new review that I post, you can subscribe to my YouTube channel. The vids go public at the same time as the reviews here on CPF.  

*PWM/Strobe*

As always, there is no sign of PWM at any output level – The R-series lights are current-controlled, just like their predecessors.  






The S15R strobe is a fairly typical fast "tactical" strobe, of 9.8Hz frequency (as before, and consistent with other members of this family).

*Standby Drain*

As the switch is an electronic one, a standby current drain is always present when a battery is installed. Interestingly, the reported standby current is lower for the S15R (1.5uA spec) than the S10R (8uA reported, 9uA measured).

On the original S15 (2013), it was so low that I was not able to get a stable reading with my DMM. When initially connecting, I got a brief ~1uA current, which then dropped down to a <1uA current. oo: At that level, it would take forever to drain a battery (roughly speaking). :laughing:

For the S15R, I measured this standby drain as a miniscule 1.9uA. For the supplied 750mAh 14500, that would theoretically translate into over 45 years before a battery would be fully drained.  This is below the self-discharge rate for Li-ions, and hardly a concern. However. I do recommend you lock out the switch at the tailcap when not in use, to prevent accidental activation.

*In-Light Charging*

Because the AC charger uses a USB connector to the charging cable, I was able to take direct measures of the charging parameters using my Xtar VI01 "USB Detector" (basically a specialized USB current/voltage meter). There are many of these on the market now, and this model was favorably reviewed by HKJ here.

For charging tests, I started with a discharged Olight 14500 battery (protection circuit tripped). For all these tests, I left the USB detector in place for all readings. Note that the voltage reading on this device refers to the input voltage (i.e., from the USB port).

Initial charging current and input voltage:










As you can see, charging started at 0.49A with a typical USB ~5V input voltage ("U" is meant to represent Volts on the top display above). This is fully consistent with the USB 2.0 specs. 

After 45 mins, the charging rate was significant reduced, to ~0.37mA. 

By 1hr 15 mins, the rate was down to ~0.27A

By 2hrs, the rate was down ~0.17A

By 2hrs 15 mins, the rate was down to ~0.14A 

And by ~2hr 20 mins total time, charging had terminated (and the dock LED was green - not shown in the pic below, which is from my S10R review):






Note however that final resting battery voltage was only ~4.14V. Olight apparently plans to adjust this or the more typical ~4.2V full charge. 

This pattern is pretty much what I would expect from a typical CC/CV algorithm. :thumbsup:

*Beamshots:*

For white-wall beamshots below, all lights are on Max output on an 3.7V Li-ion (RCR) battery. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.

1x14500:





























































Beam pattern remains very similar to the S15 (2013), as you would expect (i.e., the Batons are all relatively "floody"). 

I haven't bothered to show 1xAA or 2xAA beamshots, but you can infer relative appearance from my output tables later in this review.

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).











There isn't an output difference between the new S15R and the previous S15 on 14500 Li-ion. However, there is a definite drop in max output on 1xAA batteries.

Although the manual makes no mention of 2xAA support, I figured it was a safe bet since the voltage is 2xAA is intermediate to the 1xAA and 1x14500 configurations. The 2xAA extension tube offered on the original S15 still fits on S15R, so I thought I'd give it a try. 






Output levels on 2xAA are virtually identical to 1x14500 (although I did find a slight increase in output over the first minute or two, on fresh cells)

To better illustrate relative levels better, here is a detailed output comparison to S15, on 1x battery configurations.






I haven't shown 2xAA, since it's basically the same as 14500 (except for the slight bump in initial Hi).

As you can see, the specs haven't changed from the original S15 released in 2013. And in terms of 14500 performance, initial output levels seem unchanged across the board. Generally, output is no different between standard AA and 14500 – except on Hi. In fact, this is the only thing that has changed on my samples – my S15R is definitely lower output on Hi than my original S15. :shrug: See my runtimes for more information.

As an aside, max output on Li-ion is lower on the S15R than the S10R (and runtime patterns are different). This is something to keep in mind if you are trying to choose between these models - scroll down for actual runtimes.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

I have begun to switch to using newer Panasonic Eneloop Pro (2550mAh typical capacity) for my NIMH testing. Panasonic acquired Sanyo a little while back, and the new Panasonic-branded Eneloop Pro cells are an updated version of the former Eneloop XX cells (i.e., Panasonic Pros are basically 3rd generation XX cells, with improved charge holding ability). For the time being, most of my runtime data is still using 2000mAh Eneloops, so both types are shown below,

1xAA/14500:










































Ok, there's a lot a data up there. :sweat: Let's start with the 14500 performance.

The step-down pattern on Hi is different on the S15R than the original S15 (and different from the concurrent S10/S10R as well). On the new S15R, the light steps-down abruptly from Hi to Med after 15 mins runtime. On the S10/S10R, the light starts to step down after 4 mins runtime (and takes another 4 mins to reach the new steady-state). Also, on the S10/S10R, this extended Hi runtime is intermediate to the initial Hi and Med modes (i.e., this differs from the S15R, which steps down to the defined Med level). There was no step-down on the original S15.

As with my S10R, the supplied Olight Li-ion (14500 in this case) has a longer runtime than my standard AW battery. This suggests it is even greater capacity than the "750mAh" would indicate. The difference is even more pronounced in this case over the RCR in the S10R, but that's likely because of the ability of the Olight 14500 battery to accept a full charge. For some reason, my Olight RCR would only charge to ~4.15V, even with an external charger.

On the standard AA cells, the runtime graphs indicate that not only is initial output on Hi reduced from the original S15, but it rapidly drops off over the first couple of minutes. Basically, within minutes, the S15R on Hi is not that much brighter than Med (on standard AA/NiMH/L91). And again, after 15 mins, it actually drops to the Med level (although that distance is not very great). There has clearly been a circuit change with the S15R, and standard AA cells are clearly not fully supported on Hi any more. 

However, overall output/runtime efficiency on all levels (on standard batteries) is excellent on the S15R. This is something that was less impressive on the S15 – it was really in the 2xAA configuration that the S15 truly impressed. 

2xAA:

For 2xAA, I have done runtimes on a couple of battery types, and only on Hi. Note that since the S15R drops to Med after 15 mins, many of these runtimes would look better on the Med runtime graph scales. Also note that I mistakenly labeled the S15R runs as "Turbo" below (I meant to say "Hi"). 
























As before, the S15R is quite an efficient performer on 2x standard alkaline/NiMH AA batteries. Note sure if Olight is still offering the S15 body extender tubes for sale, but they are a nice option on the S15R too, in my view.  Just make sure you don't try to run 2x14500 – or the circuit is likely to go poof!

*Potential Issues*

All Baton lights use an electronic switch, and therefore require a small stand-by current when fully connected. However, the standby drain on S15R remains at a ridiculously low 1.9uA, which would theoretically translate into many decades before the supplied 14500 battery would be drained (i.e., this is below the self-discharge rate of Li-ions). 

Accidental activation is always a potential concern with electronic switches – however the likelihood of this has been greatly reduced thanks to the new switch design. You can also "soft" lock out the switch electronically, and can still physically lock out the light at the tailcap as well. 

The tailcap magnet is no longer removable (i.e., it is integral to how the charger functions), and it doesn't attract as heavily as before.

There is a step-down feature on Hi now, but it doesn't engage until 15 mins into a continuous run.

Supplied in-light charging feature on this initial batch of lights will only charge batteries to ~4.13-4.14V resting voltage. I understand Olight is looking to correct this on subsequent batches

An AA battery extender is no longer included with the light, but the one for the S15 model still works fine. Note that 2x14500 should NOT be attempted (i.e., the circuit can only handle 1x14500).

*Preliminary Observations*

As mentioned in my S10R review, these new R-version updates to the Olight Baton series offers a new functionality: in-light 3.7V Li-ion charging (with supplied Olight battery).  Generally, these new R-series lights offer similar performance, although there are a couple of noticeable differences from the standard S15 that I reviewed in 2013.

One significant update from the previous S15 model is the revised electronic switch. Physically, the switch is recessed slightly from before, with a built-up metal surround now. This means that accidental activation is far less likely.  Olight has also introduced the low voltage warning feature from the S20 (which has long been missing from the S10/S15 models). On all the new R-series models, there is a red LED below the switch that lights up to tell you when the battery is running low.

The build and overall feel of the S15R is similar to the earlier S15 (i.e., decent bi-directional clip, keychain attachment point, magnetic tailcap, etc.). The R-series lights are a tiny bit longer than before (likely to accommodate charging circuitry), and I find the magnet has slightly less pull (but still more than enough). There is no open voltage at the tailcap, as the magnetic connection is required for initiating charging. Unlike before though, the magnet is no longer removable (i.e., it is integral to how the charger functions). 

The new charging dock is well designed, with a secondary output feature (i.e., you can charge your cell phone right from the dock). It even includes a gel pad to stick it to your desk. That said, a slightly longer input USB cable would have been nice (as well as an AC-adapter), but you can easily pick these up elsewhere. Note that the initial batch of R-series lights/docks will only charge batteries to ~4.14V resting, but I understand Olight is working on raising this to a more typical ~4.2V.

Circuit function is generally similar to before, with an identical user interface. There is now a step-down feature on Hi – after 15 mins of continuous runtime, the light steps down to Med (on all batteries). This is relatively long period before a step down - and it can always be reversed by cycling through modes or turning off/on.

Note that S15R doesn't seem to fully support a distinct Hi mode on 1xAA (alkaline/NiMH/L91) any more. On this battery source, Initial Hi output on my S15R is greatly reduced on standard cells (compared to both Li-ion, and to standard AA on the S15). It also quickly drops to a level just above the defined Med mode on the S15R. This is something to keep in mind if you were planning to run the light on 1x standard AA (i.e., you may want to stick with the original S15). That said, the S15R runs 2xAA just fine at full output (using the AA extender tube from the S15).

Performance of the supplied Olight-branded 14500 is excellent, lasting longer than my standard AW RCR battery. This is definitely a good way to run the light, especially coupled with the desktop charging stand.:thumbsup:

Overall, output/runtime efficiency remains very good on this model, on all battery sources.  The 1x14500 and 2xAA configurations remain the "sweet spot", in my view.

The beam pattern of the actual light hasn't changed much. The S15R reflector is smooth finish as before. But a new GITD blue o-ring has been added to all models. 

Overall, the S15R is a good update version to the original S15. There are definite build improvements, and a whole new functionality added with the 14500 battery and desktop charger. Except for the reduced Hi mode on 1x standard AA, the S15R is likely to be considered an improvement in just about every way. Certainly a strong contender for this class. :wave:

----

S15R was supplied by GoingGear.com for review, on behalf of Olight.


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## Capolini (Dec 17, 2014)

Great review as usual. Now I will read it more thoroughly!

One question: How come the smaller S10R has more output than this light?


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## Ruudr (Dec 17, 2014)

Thanks. great review. very helpfull!


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## selfbuilt (Dec 17, 2014)

Capolini said:


> One question: How come the smaller S10R has more output than this light?


That is a good question, since the voltage source is the same. That's also part of what led me to try 2xAA with the old extender tube. 

Simply put, the S15R is still trying to do double-duty as a 1xAA and 2xAA light, hence the lower max drive level on 1x14500. Certainly, this is a good level for the 2xAA class. The Hi output on 1xAA is little lower than I would have expected, though.


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## X5CR123A (Dec 29, 2014)

Great review as always, just ordered one of these to replace my original S10 as the redesigned switch looks much better, and the charging dock is really handy for a light I have in my pocket every day to top up once a week.

Just hope I get the revised charger...


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## Palmonostora (Jul 5, 2015)

Thanks for all the information above. Searching for my preferred flashlight this one has almost all the plus points.
The other flashlight i’m thinking of is the Nitecore MH2a.


Most important part for me is the light must be able to run on normal AA batteries.


I like the design for the charger built in the flashlight, like the Nitecore.
This enables to charge as you go, at work, in the car, almost everywhere. The Olight can only be charged on its cradle.


On the Olight I like everything else, the design on the switch/modes, runtime, included battery choice.
The negative for the MH2A is (for me) the included battery, strange design, hard to find a spare one specially here in the Netherlands (not available at all)
I can’t find a flashlight with all the pros combined.(would be simple, a S15R with built in charger)
Difficult decision


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## selfbuilt (Jul 5, 2015)

Yes, every choice does seem to involved trade-offs at some level.

:welcome:


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## X5CR123A (Jul 6, 2015)

I find in normal use the S15 lasts for weeks or months between needing a charge, and you always have the AA option if you get desperate so the cradle to charge is not an issue.

It's not massive either, mine fits nice in my USB charging bag with other stuff I carry around.

I have not used the MH2A but I do have the P25 and the inbuilt micro USB socket is useful, especially on a high power light you use more on higher modes, but compromise is higher risk of water ingress.

The forum way would be to buy bother the S15 and the MH2A you realise! ;-)


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## Palmonostora (Jul 7, 2015)

Thanks for the answers, after some more search I find something different.
I ordered a Klarus RS11. No possibility for AA batteries so that is a tradeoff but I think a fine flashlight to have with me.


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## Frank W (Aug 14, 2015)

I have had the Olight S15R for two months, and I got some impressions after extended use in the field. Hope this thread is appropriate for such comments.



The clip came off one night, not surprisingly (it's spring loaded). Without the clip, it gets pretty hard to find the button in the dark (as it is almost flush with the body of the flashlight, and there is no distinguishing feature where the button side is). A more protruding button would of course make accidental activation easier, but some sort of ribbing in the metal or other mark around it would be nice.
I quite liked the modes, easy access to moonlight (hold press & release), easy access to turbo (doubleclick from off - although the timing is pretty critical here). UI is pleasant to use.
Magnetic dock is great for desk use, not so great for field use - I charged it from solar panels (via a powerbank, as I am not sure how the internal charger circuitry handles fluctuating current directly from solar), and for such use an (optional perhaps) magnetic cable (like Klarus has) would be better than the dock, as it's just another small gadget to loose or break.
The flexibility of a rechargeable light with optional primary cell backup was great. Although for my use, I fortunately never even had to change to primary cell backup.

Few things to make it even better:

locking clip as a distinguishing feature to easily find the button in the dark
(optional) magnetic charging cable with USB on one end for field charging (smaller and more rugged than the USB dock)

Unfortunately, after two months of use, the flashlight broke down. At first, it would not change modes, and finally the LED just flashed and died completely. I must have gotten a bad sample probably. With a generous 5 year warranty, I hope it will get sorted quickly. The flashlight is currently on the way for replacement.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 14, 2015)

Thanks for sharing your extended experience with it!


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## X5CR123A (Aug 14, 2015)

I use mine everyday and touch wood no problems.

I have the same requirement for a smaller charging dock for mobile use the base is bulky compared to what you need.

If I could get a second dock cheap I would likely try to trim it down.


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## selfbuilt (Aug 14, 2015)

X5CR123A said:


> I have the same requirement for a smaller charging dock for mobile use the base is bulky compared to what you need.
> If I could get a second dock cheap I would likely try to trim it down.


Yes, the Olight dock-series lights are clearly meant for an office. For on-the-go charging, one of the Nitecore micro-USB charting lights might fit the bill.


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## X5CR123A (Aug 15, 2015)

Agreed, at the time I bought the S15 I an not sure there smaller units were out? I have had a P25 for a long time which I find great, and just uses the now common USB micro.


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## Flashy808 (Sep 19, 2015)

In regard to "Supplied in-light charging feature on this initial batch of lights will only charge batteries to ~4.13-4.14V resting voltage. I understand Olight is looking to correct this on subsequent batches" have they began to ship the corrected batches yet and where can I get them from? Also how can I tell if they are corrected is there a serial number or something?:duh2:

Thanks for this Wonderful In-Depth Review SelfBuilt! :thumbsup:


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## UnderPar (Sep 21, 2015)

Flashy808 said:


> In regard to "Supplied in-light charging feature on this initial batch of lights will only charge batteries to ~4.13-4.14V resting voltage. I understand Olight is looking to correct this on subsequent batches" have they began to ship the corrected batches yet and where can I get them from? Also how can I tell if they are corrected is there a serial number or something?:duh2:
> 
> Thanks for this Wonderful In-Depth Review SelfBuilt! :thumbsup:



Try contacting Olight CS. What I know is that they have started replacing the S30R units that are with issues with the new S30R II. Never heard of the S15R yet. Their CS is in a better position to answer your query. HTH


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## Flashy808 (Sep 21, 2015)

UnderPar said:


> Try contacting Olight CS. What I know is that they have started replacing the S30R units that are with issues with the new S30R II. Never heard of the S15R yet. Their CS is in a better position to answer your query. HTH



Yeah I tried to contact the retailer I'm going to buy from but they haven't responded yet... But I'll try to contact Olight's CS. Thanks!


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## WarRaven (Sep 21, 2015)

Good luck with that, no sarcasm. 
Olight hasn't responded since I mentioned S10R an S15R suffer from same issue that S30R had.
I've a couple that are problematic myself. 

Last I heard from their representing Rep here in forums was over a month ago. Olight CS directly through email, two months now.
Olight CS said in an email they'd get me new fixed tail caps,
In July.


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## WarRaven (Sep 21, 2015)

Ooh, yes I have sent follow up PMs and emails, no reply.
I'm close to making a video and putting it up on YT to maybe spur a reaction.


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## Flashy808 (Sep 21, 2015)

WarRaven said:


> Ooh, yes I have sent follow up PMs and emails, no reply.
> I'm close to making a video and putting it up on YT to maybe spur a reaction.



Aha yeah maybe if you publicly show everyone that might get there attention or maybe even a little bit more than wanted....just kidding.

Yeah I hope Olight CS does respond I've been eagerly checking my emails and PM every hour!


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## WarRaven (Sep 21, 2015)

I hear you, they need a new representative though.
Ignoring customers after sale like they did for a long time with the S30R users is very damaging to not only my outlook on future purchases of their wares, of others too.

This is beyond frustrating to me already dealing with Olight.
Love the lights, despite their customer service.

Edited autocorrected word.


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## Flashy808 (Sep 21, 2015)

Hmm never knew that thanks. I also like there style of lights but never thought that supplier could be so bad on CS, like if they want to sell there products they should at least be bothered with CS.

Back on topic, does the S15R come with a battery extension tube or is that just the S15?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 23, 2015)

Flashy808 said:


> Back on topic, does the S15R come with a battery extension tube or is that just the S15?


I believe it was just the S15 that included the extension tube (although it works on the S15R, for use with 2xAA/NiMH only).


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## X5CR123A (Sep 23, 2015)

I bought the extension tube separately for my S15R, for use with AA NiMH if the single li-ion goes flat


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## Flashy808 (Sep 23, 2015)

I was thinking about purchasing a extension tube (after reading your great review ) but the fact that you could only use it for AA/NiMHs was a real bummer.


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## Frank W (Oct 9, 2015)

Just asking, since I had my tailcap replaced under warranty after e light broke down, what is the issue and talk about S30II? Is my replaced tailcap on the S15R going to fail again, ie was there some general issue with it, or just bad luck? The importer changed the failed tailcap, but if it was some general problem with the, failing over time I would like to sort it out for once and all...


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## WarRaven (Oct 9, 2015)

Hi Frank
The Olight Rep told me that my delay was them re engineering tail cap so it would not jam itself up anymore.(Not sure I believe)
So the likely hood of your cap failing again is down to, if the seller gave you a cap off of another light in stock or, got one of these new versions. 
I still have not received replacements for mine to date.
If yours gets jammed up again, I guess we'll know which you got.


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## Flashy808 (Oct 9, 2015)

WarRaven said:


> Hi Frank
> The Olight Rep told me that my delay was them re engineering tail cap so it would not jam itself up anymore.(Not sure I believe)
> So the likely hood of your cap failing again is down to, if the seller gave you a cap off of another light in stock or, got one of these new versions.
> I still have not received replacements for mine to date.
> If yours gets jammed up again, I guess we'll know which you got.



Guess so. Manufacturers should so make sure there QC is too notch it means quite a lot to their further with us.

Also just got word from Xtar CS after about 2 months! 

Oh and thanks for clarifying SelfBuit!


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## WarRaven (Oct 10, 2015)

I have to update my sour posts☺
Parts were in mail yesterday waiting for me when I got in.
As mentioned, they are new style. Obvious retaining ring inside difference from earlier design doing just a visual. Functions as expected.


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## Wolfy1776 (Oct 25, 2015)

How long does it take to charge the battery using the dock?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 25, 2015)

Wolfy1776 said:


> How long does it take to charge the battery using the dock?


On the first generation tested here, it took 2hr 20min to charge to ~4.15V. Currently shipping models probably take an extra 20 mins or so to make it to ~4.2V.


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## Wolfy1776 (Oct 25, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> On the first generation tested here, it took 2hr 20min to charge to ~4.15V. Currently shipping models probably take an extra 20 mins or so to make it to ~4.2V.



Why longer charging time?


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## X5CR123A (Oct 25, 2015)

I think selfbuilt is saying the later models have a higher cut off voltage. More capacity in would take longer.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 25, 2015)

X5CR123A said:


> I think selfbuilt is saying the later models have a higher cut off voltage. More capacity in would take longer.


Yes, on a CC/CV charging algorithm (which the S15R seems to approximate pretty well), those last ~0.05V can take awhile to reach, since the current is quite low by then.


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## Danielsan (Oct 31, 2015)

The low voltage warning indicator behind the power button is not working. I have it from gearbest, i hope my s30 i ordered have a working indicator.


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## dvlad666 (Nov 10, 2015)

Thanks dear *selfbuilt *and other *S15R owners* for your reviews!

Could you please tell how does this light behave while docked and with NO battery inside? I'm especially interested in:
-Are all Lo, Med, Hi modes available? (as for Hi i doubt due to the charger current being limited)
-Does the mode memory function work if 5V dock input is lost?
-What is the longest intermittent power loss at the ring the light can survive with no notice? Say, if its rotated at the base or accidentially inclined by the hand

I have read the whole thread for answers but came up empty

Thanks a lot in advance!


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## selfbuilt (Nov 26, 2015)

dvlad666 said:


> Could you please tell how does this light behave while docked and with NO battery inside? I'm especially interested in:


It doesn't work that way - the dock simply charges the battery, it doesn't allow the light to operate without a battery installed.
:welcome:


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## funkychateau (Nov 26, 2015)

At what voltage did the low-voltage indicator illuminate for eneloop, alkaline, and Li-ion batteries? And did this readjust itself when using 2x eneloop or 2x alkaline?

thanks!


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## Frank W (Dec 28, 2015)

WarRaven said:


> Hi Frank
> The Olight Rep told me that my delay was them re engineering tail cap so it would not jam itself up anymore.(Not sure I believe)
> So the likely hood of your cap failing again is down to, if the seller gave you a cap off of another light in stock or, got one of these new versions.
> I still have not received replacements for mine to date.
> If yours gets jammed up again, I guess we'll know which you got.



Hi, thanks for the info. My (old version) replacement cap failed as well, so my rep just got me one from what he said was was the new batch which they finally got in stock. We will see


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## Flashy808 (Jan 6, 2016)

Today I tried to use an Apple USB Power adaptor to charge my S15R and the charging-dok came up with a fast flashing (no, not the slow one as mentioned in SelfBuilt's review  red LED indicator. Then I swapped the adaptor to another Apple adaptor because I thought something was wrong with that one's specifications  and I did that multiple times to the point I was about to ask CPF. But then I tried a standard cheap brand USB adaptor and this time it came up with the a constant red (meaning charging properly).

I have heard on some occasions Apple's special coding may interfere with charging but I'm not exactly sure what happened in my case. Could someone please shed some light?:candle: :shakehead

Also would I have damaged my battery? :shakehead

Thanks!!


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## selfbuilt (Jan 8, 2016)

Flashy808 said:


> Also would I have damaged my battery? :shakehead


I'm sure the battery is fine. The flashing indicator means some sort of fault is detected by the charging circuit, so no charging was occurring. It's just one of these things - presumably, it doesn't like how your Apple USB power adapter is setup. :shrug:


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## Flashy808 (Jan 9, 2016)

selfbuilt said:


> I'm sure the battery is fine. The flashing indicator means some sort of fault is detected by the charging circuit, so no charging was occurring. It's just one of these things - presumably, it doesn't like how your Apple USB power adapter is setup. :shrug:



Oh I understand . I guess I'll stay away from Apple adaptor when it comes to charging my baton.

I know this is kind of straying from the topic but will this sort of error occur when using external chargers (eg. i4,VP2,VC4...)?

Thanks for the info SelfBuilt!


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## Lex Icon (Jan 9, 2016)

double post


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## Lex Icon (Jan 9, 2016)

Flashy808 said:


> Oh I understand . I guess I'll stay away from Apple adaptor when it comes to charging my baton.
> 
> I know this is kind of straying from the topic but will this sort of error occur when using external chargers (eg. i4,VP2,VC4...)?
> 
> Thanks for the info SelfBuilt!



Dedicated charging adapters, such as those designed for specific equipment (e.g. Apple products), are likely to present problems more often than ‘generic’ charging adapters, power hubs, and external battery banks with intelligent circuits built in to identify the necessary parameters.

As an example, I have used Anker brand units featuring IQ circuitry without any problems up to this point, charging everything except the smallest mah batteries, which draw so little they seem to confuse the circuits into thinking the small batteries are already charged.


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## Flashy808 (Jan 10, 2016)

Lex Icon said:


> Dedicated charging adapters, such as those designed for specific equipment (e.g. Apple products), are likely to present problems more often than ‘generic’ charging adapters, power hubs, and external battery banks with intelligent circuits built in to identify the necessary parameters.
> 
> As an example, I have used Anker brand units featuring IQ circuitry without any problems up to this point, charging everything except the smallest mah batteries, which draw so little they seem to confuse the circuits into thinking the small batteries are already charged.



Ahaha yes I have heard of such problems. But the odd thing is, even when I used a standard USB port on a PC it didn't want to charge.

Thanks!


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