# Eagletac GX25A3 (XM-L2 U2, 3xAA) Review: RUNTIMES, VIDEO, BEAMSHOTS and more!



## selfbuilt (Jun 21, 2013)

*Warning: even more pic heavy than usual. :sweat:*















The 3xAA GX25A3 is the little brother of the 6xAA SX25A6 that I recently reviewed from Eagletac. Although tiny, this light packs a lot of punch for the size – let's see how it does against the other multiple-AA lights. 

*Manufacturer Reported Specifications:* 
(note: as always, these are simply what the manufacturer provides – scroll down to see my actual testing results).


LED: Cool White CREE XM-L2 U2 LED
Four brightness levels (Regular mode): ANSI FL-1 lumen: 915-832/301/9
Runtime: 1.3/3/100+ hours 
Two brightness levels (Tactical mode): ANSI lumen: 915-832/185/Strobe
Runtime: 1.3/5 hours 
Center lux: 20,100 lux
Center spot angle: 6°
Spill light angle: 57°
Beam distance: 311 yards / 284 meters 
Battery Type: 3xAA, 1.5V alkaline/lithium,1.2V NiMH, or 3.7V li-ion
Compatible battery diameter/length: Diameter: 14-14.6mm, Length: 50-50.5mm 
Lens: Waterwhite glass lens w/ harden treatment, Anti-reflective (AR) coating on both side (96% transparency)
Reflector: Smooth aluminum reflector
Material: HAIII hard anodization aerospace aluminum
Waterproof: IPX-8 standard
Innovative slot load design, No battery tray or battery magazine needed 
Seven hidden auxiliary outputs: Strobe/Strobe(Var)/Flash(Hi)/S.O.S.(Fast)/S.O.S./Becaon/Flash(Lo) 
Dimensions: Head Dia.1.5 inches (47 mm), Body Dia.1.4 inches (36 mm), Length:4.3 inches (173 mm)
Weight:5.2 ounces (260 grams)
What's Included: GX25A3 flashlight, Spare o-rings, User Manual, Mil-Spec Para-cord Lanyard w/ quick attachment clip, Tailcap with rear switch, Extra signal connection through the body tube (pre-installed), Heavy Duty Nylon Holster w/ self-retention device and open-top design 
MSRP: ~$95






Unlike the SX25A6 (which featured the new Eagletac packaging with the light in a soft fabric pouch with a drawstring), the GX25A3 came in the traditional Eagletac box. Included accessories are a wrist lanyard, extra tailcap (with secondary switch), belt holster, extra o-rings, manual, and warranty card. 

Note that the standard flat tailcap is installed for all the measures and pics below.













From left to right: Duracell NiMH; Eagletac GX25A3; Nitecore EA4; Sunwayman D40Al Olight S35; Eagletac SX25A6.

All dimensions directly measured, and given with no batteries installed (unless indicated):

*Eagletac GX25A3 3xAA*: Weight: 151.4g, Length: 109.2mm, Weight (bezel): 38.6mm
*Eagletac SX25A6 6xAA*: Weight: 279.8g, Length: 183mm, Weight (bezel): 47.0mm
*Fenix TK45 8xAA*: Weight: 307.3g, Length: 202mm, Width (bezel) 50.6mm, Width (tailcap) 44.0
*ITP A6 6xAA*: Weight: 209.9g, Length: 174mm, Width (bezel) 48.0mm, Width (tailcap) 37.8mm
*JetBeam PA40 4xAA*: Weight: 184.0g, Length: 183mm, Width: 40.8mm (bezel), 42.1mm (max width)
*Lumintop PK30 6xAA*: Weight: 454.0g, Length: 218mm, Width (bezel): 62.0mm
*Nitecore EA4 4xAA*: Weight: 161.6g , Length: 117.9mm, Width (bezel): 40.2mm
*Nitecore EA8 8xAA*: Weight: 301.9g , Length: 182mm, Width (bezel): 60.1mm
*Olight S35 3xAA*: Weight 177.3g, Length: 127.7mm, Width (bezel): 38.7mm
*Olight S65 6xAA*: Weight 215.4g, Length: 180mm, Width (bezel): 38.7mm 
*Sunwayman D40A 4xAA*: Weight: 167.9g, Length: 120.4mm, Weight (bezel): 40.0mm
*Sunwayman M40A 4xAA*: Weight: 247.0g , Length: 145mm, Width 57.0mm (bezel) 

The GX25A3 is the smallest 3xAA light I've seen so far. 






















The overall build of the GX25A3 is basically a smaller version of the 6xAA SX25A6, and is very reminiscent of some of the other recent Eagletac lights (e.g., TX25C2 and GX/SX/MX25L2).

Hand feel is good (for all size hands), and the light is comfortable to hold and use. Grip is reasonably good, thanks to all the build elements. Knurling is somewhat mild, but is present over the entire battery tube/handle. As with the SX25A6, there are also finger well cut-outs on three sides of the battery tube. 

Anodizing is glossy black, hard anodized (i.e., type III), with no obvious chips or damage on my sample. Labels are bright and clear (i.e., sharp white against the black background). 

Like the SX25A6, the GX25A3 doesn't use a battery carrier, but instead has cut-out wells for the cells. The cells are arranged in continuous series, with connection being made by contacts on a connector piece in the tailcap. This connector can spin freely, and locks in place to a couple of holes in the body that line up with rods in the tailcap. 

Screw threading on the tailcap is traditional triangular cut, and is anodized. This actually allows you to lock out the light, as there is a signal that carries through the tailcap. On most other lights with this sort of battery arrangement, tension on the springs determines the contact, and hence no lock-out is possible. 

The GX25A3 can tailstand, even with the secondary tailcap switch installed. This special tailcap is bundled with the light, and the switch functions exactly the same as the main switch. 

Screw threads are square-cut (and thick) in the head region where mode switching occurs, as with the other recent Eagletac lights

With either tailcap installed, the electronic switch controls on-off, with output mode selection and programming controlled by head twist. This is the same as the other recent GX/SX/MX25L2 and TX25C2 lights – they all use a distinctive set of contact points in the head, required for mode switching (scroll down for a UI discussion). 

Side-switch feel is good for an electronic switch – there is a reasonable traverse, and the action is firm. Grip is good with the texturized rubber button cover. The secondary tailcap switch on the kit version has a similar feel and function, but is recessed for tailstanding.










The GX25A3 reflector is smooth and surprisingly deep – this should translate into very good throw for the size. Overall reflector dimensions remind me of the Nitecore EA4 and Sunwayman D40A. The XM-L2 emitter was well centered.

The light has a flat black aluminum bezel.

*User Interface*

The interface is identical to my SX26A6 – in fact, they share the same manual. Turn the light on/off by the electronic switch. Press and hold for momentary, press-release (i.e. click) for locked-on.

There are three output levels controlled by how loose/tight the head is (i.e., the three levels are accessed in sequence from head fully tight). As soon as you loosen past fully tight, you drop down to the second level. You drop down again to the third (and final) level after a ~120 degree turn. This is the same as the TX25C2, but differs from the G25C2 and GX/SX/MX25L2 series lights (that offer four modes instead). You need to do at least one and a quarter full head turns from tight to get the light to shut off (but you can easily lock out the light at the tailcap).

There are two possible groups of output modes available - Tactical (100% > 15% > Strobe, in sequence) and Regular (100% > 40% > 0.5%, in sequence). You can switch between the two groups by turning the light on max (fully tight) and loosening the head to the second level and then back to tight, repeating this sequence ten times in five seconds. 

A new feature on these recent tactical lights is the ability to rapidly access a momentary Turbo from any head position by a press-and-hold of the switch when On. You can similarly access strobe at any time by a double press and hold (i.e. click and press-hold). Simply release the switch to return to your previous head-set level. 

To access the hidden auxiliary modes, do a quick loosen-tighten twist of the head (from first level tight to third level and back again). Repeat this twist to advance through the modes. Mode sequence is: Strobe I > Strobe II > Hi-Flash > SOS I > SOS II > Beacon > Lo-Flash, in repeating sequence. Turn off the light or loosen the head to quit the hidden modes. I will describe these modes in more detail below. 

There is an "energy saving feature" where the light reduces output by 25% after 200 seconds in Turbo. You can toggle this feature "off", which results in a 10% step-down instead. See my runtime results below for more information. To toggle this feature off or on, turn the light on at the third level, and switch back and forth to the second level for ten times in five seconds.

*Video*: 

For more information on the light, including the build and user interface, please see my video overview:



Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. 

As with all my videos, I recommend you have annotations turned on. I commonly update the commentary with additional information or clarifications before publicly releasing the video.

*PWM/Strobe*

There is no sign of PWM that I can see, at any output level – I believe the light is current-controlled.  

My GX25A3 is again identical to my SX25A6 – and both are similar to my TX25C2 and GX/SX25L2 in terms of the auxiliary blinking modes.

Strobe I:





The main strobe is standard high frequency strobe, measured at 9.6 Hz on my GX25A3.

Strobe II:





The second strobe mode is an alternating or "oscillating" strobe, switching between 6.5Hz and 15.2Hz every 2 seconds. 

Hi-Flash:





Hi-Flash is basically a full power slow strobe/beacon mode. Frequency was a reasonable ~1.6Hz. Note that the deflection spikes you see above are just the on and off signals of the pulse (i.e., it spends roughly half the time on, half the time off, with each pulse). 

SOS I:





The "fast" SOS signals the full SOS sequence (dot-dot-dot, dash-dash-dash, dot-dot-dot) in just under 3 secs. Note again that the traces above refer to both the on- and off-signal for each pulse of light.

SOS II:





In contrast, the "slow" SOS takes just under 3 seconds just do the "S" (i.e. dot-dot-dot), and about 4 second to do the "O" (i.e., dash-dash-dash), with a good 3 seconds in-between each Morse code letter. Personally, this seems far more useful than the rather frenetic initial SOS mode.

Beacon:





Beacon is a slow full output flash (almost 2 secs long), re-occurring approximately every ~14 secs (i.e., a very slow beacon)

*Standby Drain*

A standby current drain is inevitable on this light, due to the electronic switch in the head (and/or tailcap). I have measured it on my GX25A3 to be 78uA. Given the serial cell arrangement, would translate into just under 3 years on 2000mAh NiMH. :thumbsup: 

If you are concerned about this minute drain, you can easily lock-out the GX25A3 by a quick twist of the tailcap. 

*Beamshots:*

And now the white-wall beamshots.  All lights are on Sanyo Eneloop NiMH, at the maximum supported number for the given models (4x, 6x or 8x). Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences (i.e., my SX25A6 sample is a neutral white tint, but you won't be able to tell that below). 





























































Simply put, the GX25A3 beam pattern looks very similar to the beam of the Nitecore EA4, but is a touch "throwier".  The Sunwayman D40A is pretty close as well to the GX25A3. These lights all have remarkably good throw for their size. :thumbsup:

The main difference of the GX25A3 to the SX25A6 is the slightly narrower spillbeam on the 6xAA model, and slightly greater throw (both to be expected, due to the larger reflector on that light). GX25A3 max output doesn't seem that much less than the SX25A6 though … scroll down to my summary tables for direct measures.

For outdoor beamshots, these are all done in the style of my earlier 100-yard round-up review. Please see that thread for a discussion of the topography (i.e. the road dips in the distance, to better show you the corona in the mid-ground). 

FYI, any "streaks" you see across the images are bug-trails. Flying insects are often attracted to the bright lights, and their flight trails get captured as swirly streaks due to the long exposure time. 






As expected, the SX25A6 definitely has better throw at a distance – with a more pronounced hotspot.






There really isn't much of a difference in throw between the GX25A3 and D40A, despite what is shown above. It must be my variable hotspot placement on this shot.  

*Testing Method:* 

All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, as described on my flashlightreviews.ca website. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling.

I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. 

*Throw/Output Summary Chart:*

My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please see http://www.flashlightreviews.ca/FL1.htm for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables. Effective July 2012, I have updated all my Peak Intensity/Beam Distance measures with a NIST-certified Extech EA31 lightmeter (orange highlights).






As you can see, despite its small size, the GX25A3 is no slouch when it comes to output and throw. Although not quite in the same throw category as the 6xAA SX25A6, output is pretty close. In fact, it has one of the brightest turbo modes among all my 3x/4x AA lights.

Let's see how my output estimates compare to the official Eagletac specs for this light:






Again, very close. :thumbsup: Note that the step-down value shown above is when you have this featured "disabled" (which actually produces a ~10% drop in output, instead of the standard ~25%). With the default 25% step-down in place, I estimate ~620 lumens after step-down.

*Output/Runtime Graphs:*

_Note: in terms of the runtimes, "Hi" is 100%, "Med" is 40%, and "Lo" is the 15% output mode. _



















As you can tell from above, Eagletac is using a good current-controlled circuit in the light – runtimes are excellent, especially for only 3xAA. It's true the light won't last quite as long as some of the good recent 4xAA lights, but this is an impressive showing on 3xAA.

Like the SX25A6, the default for the GX25A3 is to step down ~25% after 200 secs on Hi. With this feature "disabled", there is a smaller ~10% drop. In either case, the light remains in generally flat regulation for a good part of the run – which is impressive for just 3xAA. oo: 

I don't have a lot of comparator data to other lights on L91 lithiums, but here is the GX25A3 compared to NiMH (Eneloop):






The GX25A3 runs on L91 lithiums, but with slightly decreased initial Turbo output. I would estimate that the ANSI FL-1 output level to be ~770 lumens (compared to ~910 on Eneloop).

Also, as with the SX25A6, the main LED begins to flash as standard primary batteries drain down. For alkaliine on the GX25A3, this essentially means soon after the light starts fall out of regulation. Note that this was mainly for alkalines - no real sign of it on NiMH, and L91 didn't show it until much later (when output was already quite low).

Let's see how the max output of the GX25A3 compares to some of the 6x and 8xAA lights:











The GX25A3 is right up there with many of the recent 6x/8xAA lights, in terms of initial max output. As expected, the GX25A3 won't run for as long on 3xAA cells. But it goes to show you how far the 3x/4xAA class has come.

In terms of comparison to the SX25A6, the main advantages of that larger light are extra runtime and throw.

As before, Eagletac's ANSI FL-1 runtime specs are generally consistent with my results. Recall that the FL-1 standard calls for time to 10% output (not 50%, as reported above), and that I am using relative low-capacity 2000mAh Sanyo Eneloop. 

Surprisingly, the GX25A3 will also take 3x14500:






As you can see though, the light is no brighter on 3x3.7V Li-ion - the regulated levels are the same. Runtime is similarly not that different from standard NiMH Eneloop. The reason for this is that you have to consider the voltage when doing capacity conversions (i.e., Work-hours = Amp-hours * Voltage). By that measure, the actual capacity to do work is not that different between a 750mAh 14500 and 2000mAh Eneloop.

*Potential Issues*

As with other Eagletac models where output mode is set by the degree the head is tightened, you need to keep all contact surfaces in the head scrupulously clean. Long-term reliability of the switching mechanism/pins is unknown.

Similar to the SX25A6, mode spacing is a bit unusual, with only three levels per group and no typical "Lo" mode (i.e., you basically get to choose between Turbo > Hi > Lo, or Turbo > Med > Strobe). See my lumen estimates above for more info.

Due to the electronic switch in the head, there is a standby current when the tailcap is fully connected. This is relatively small however (i.e., would take almost 3 years to completely drain NiMH on its own).

Light starts flashing on alkalines once it falls out of regulation (which is very quickly, on the Hi/Turbo).

Light lacks any sort of anti-roll feature, and can roll fairly easily.

Light can support 3x14500 Li-ion (3.7V), but the early production runs may not be able to fit protected cells (e.g., my protected AW 14500s were too tall to allow the tailcap to screw down sufficiently). Eagletac has revised this, and currently shipping lights can handle all length cells.

*Preliminary Observations*

The GX25A3 is an excellent little 3xAA flashlight, with many of the same features as the "big brother" 6xAA SX25A6 that I recently reviewed. 

Overall build and user interface is basically the same as the SX25A6, just in a smaller 3xAA format. The SX25A6 has a wider head for greater throw, but overall output levels are not that dissimilar between the models. I've noticed this for other lights in the 3x/4X class – double the number of AA cell typically nets you mainly more runtime (with extended regulation). 

I personally like the interface for the GX25A3/SX25A6 (i.e., electronic side-switch for Off/On and head-twist for setting output levels). A nice touch here is that the GX25A3 comes by default with both the standard flat tailcap, and the alternate tailcap with a secondary On/Off switch. For the SX25A6, you need to buy the kit version to get this switch tailcap. Note the alternate tailcap switch exactly duplicates the function of the regular side switch.

That said, I know not everyone is a fan of using a head-twist for output level setting – but it does give you the advantage of being able to predict your output level before turning on. That said, I do miss the 4-levels of the G25C2 family, and mode spacing on the 3-level GX25A3/SX25A6 is not ideal for me (i.e., you really only have the choice between Turbo > Hi > Lo, or Turbo > Med > Strobe on these lights). :shrug:

The GX25A3 does share the same kind of excellent output/runtime efficiency as other members of the Eagletac family. That said, don't expect regulated output on Turbo for very long on just three alkalines.  Also, as with the SX25A6, expect to see low voltage warning flashes once alkalkine cells drop out of regulation. As such, I would say this light is really best suited to NiMH or L91 (or limiting alkalines to the lower output modes). Interestingly, the GX25A3 even supports 14500 Li-ion (although that won't net you any greater output or runtime over NiMH Eneloops).

Beam pattern is very nice, with excellent throw and output for the size. On both measures, this light tops my larger 4xAA Nitecore EA4 (although the difference isn't really noticeable in practice).

It took awhile for Eagletac to send this light to me for review – apparently, they were having a hard time keeping inventory.  And I can understand why it would be popular – you get a lot of light here, despite the diminutive size. Build quality is excellent, and it is not a surprise to me that it would command a price premium over the Nitecore EA4. As always, it's really a question of the user interface and feature set you are looking for – a worthy addition to the 3x/4xAA class. :wave:

----

GX25A3 was provided by Eagletac for review.


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## kj2 (Jun 21, 2013)

Thanks for the review  The A3 is a great, small but yet powerful light just like the SWM D40A.
Question; which camera and lens are you using for your photos?


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## selfbuilt (Jun 21, 2013)

kj2 said:


> Thanks for the review  The A3 is a great, small but yet powerful light just like the SWM D40A.
> Question; which camera and lens are you using for your photos?


Indeed, my D40A review will up shortly. 

My camera is a Canon Powershot S5, with a standard 12X lens.


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## whiteoakjoe (Jun 21, 2013)

I'm not a fan of the side switch, So I am pleased that the tail switch is included in the light. Is it the same cap used on the 6AA version?


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## leor604 (Jun 21, 2013)

Thanks, selfbuilt.

I am very happy with my GX25A3 with one exception - why 10 (TEN!!!!) on-off cycles for group switching. Three (like the D25C) would have been much better IMO.

Oh, and it took me three tries to get a good one. First one had a bent pin in the head, second one had a faulty side switch, third one is perfect. Thankfully, my dealer (Mack Outdoors, thanks Grant) took care of me without question, and the third light was from a different batch. Maybe some early QC issues but all is good now.

Awesome amount of light in a small package!


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## selfbuilt (Jun 22, 2013)

whiteoakjoe said:


> I'm not a fan of the side switch, So I am pleased that the tail switch is included in the light. Is it the same cap used on the 6AA version?


Yes, it appears to be exactly the same part.



leor604 said:


> I am very happy with my GX25A3 with one exception - why 10 (TEN!!!!) on-off cycles for group switching. Three (like the D25C) would have been much better IMO.


LOL, I hear you - that is a bit much.  I find the interface quite serviceable, as long as you don't want to do the group switching (or the step disabling, etc.) very often.

Sorry to hear about your sample issues - so far, no problems oin any of the recent Eagletac lights I've been sent.


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## regulator (Jun 22, 2013)

Thanks for the review. I've had mine for several weeks and like the light a lot. Do you think you could include runtime on the 185 lumen level that is part of the tactical mode. I would think this light would be most efficient at this level and would probably even run very flat regulated with alkalines. The output at this level still seems quit powerful and I bet runtime is many hours - which impresses me for such a small light (and only 3 AA's). Thanks again for your great work!


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## selfbuilt (Jun 22, 2013)

regulator said:


> Do you think you could include runtime on the 185 lumen level that is part of the tactical mode. I would think this light would be most efficient at this level and would probably even run very flat regulated with alkalines. The output at this level still seems quit powerful and I bet runtime is many hours - which impresses me for such a small light (and only 3 AA's). Thanks again for your great work!


Ok, I'll see if I can do a runtime on alkalines at this level. May take me a day or two.


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## Cereal_Killer (Jun 22, 2013)

I received a pre-production GX25A3 from amazon prime for review (as far as I know I'm still the only reviewer of this light on amazon) and I was very surprised I liked it so well over my personal owned EA4. The thing that gets me is 3AA's, I really don't understand, the diameter increase from adding the 4th AA would have been negligible yet they runtime would have improved plus I just find it a PITA to have a spare battery left (in the event you buy a 4pk of L91's)

Regardless its still a nice light and as always your review is excellent!

edit: my prime sample didnt come with the tail switch, could you possible post a pic or 2 of it assembled with the tail switch? Thx


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## regulator (Jun 22, 2013)

I think the 3 AA format feels perfect in the hand. Adding the 4th cell takes it ever so slightly beyond. But I also agree that the increased runtime from the 4th cell is appreciated for the slight increase. And you are right about the odd number of cells when purchasing batteries.

I bought a 4 pack and 2 pack of Sanyo 2700 mA batteries for use with this light to give me the 6 I needed to have a set of backups - a little creative purchasing. I also have a Maha charger with independent channels so I am good to go. And I always have plenty of good ol Eneloops ready as well.


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## Cereal_Killer (Jun 22, 2013)

My main thing about the batteries is when your not home with unlimited eneloops. If I had to stop somewhere and buy batteries (I carry one spare set already, so if I use those and need more) I would only purchase L91's and if I buy a 4pk and that lasts me till I'm home I'll have one spare l91 left, now I have to wait for the same scenario 2 more times so I have 3 left over singles before I have another full set. I'd rather not have one battery left from the 4pk. 
Don't let that be the deciding factor for this light, its a great light, just a huge personal gripe of mine with eagletac.


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## liquidwater (Jun 22, 2013)

does the kit version come with an extra threaded head? because eagletacs website says it does. : /


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## kj2 (Jun 23, 2013)

liquidwater said:


> does the kit version come with an extra threaded head? because eagletacs website says it does. : /


I assume so. But I haven't seen the kit version yet.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 23, 2013)

liquidwater said:


> does the kit version come with an extra threaded head? because eagletacs website says it does. : /





kj2 said:


> I assume so. But I haven't seen the kit version yet.


I would expect so as well (based on my TX25C2), but I haven't seen the GX25A3 kit version either yet.


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## shelm (Jun 24, 2013)

The GX25A3 and the D40A are about equally bright, that's amazing because the Eagletac uses only 3xAA instead of 4xAA. Hence i tend to think that the ET is more efficient.

In a direct beam comparison against a white wall which beam looks less tinted, for example in a white ceilling white floor double bounce? lol


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## selfbuilt (Jun 24, 2013)

shelm said:


> The GX25A3 and the D40A are about equally bright, that's amazing because the Eagletac uses only 3xAA instead of 4xAA. Hence i tend to think that the ET is more efficient.
> In a direct beam comparison against a white wall which beam looks less tinted, for example in a white ceilling white floor double bounce? lol


I wouldn't say that the GX25A3 is more efficient - just that its 3 cells are driven slightly harder on max than the 4 cells on the D40A. The result is that the GX25A3 almost matches the D40A for output, but with proportionately lower runtime. In terms of true efficiency, both circuits seems excellent to me.

As for beam tint, that's bound to be highly variable. Personally, I find my GX25A3 to have a slightly "greener" hotspot and slightly "purpler" spill than my D40A (but part of that may simply be the interaction of the reflector geometry and emitter design). Some combinations produce wider differences between hotspot and spill and others. And as we've learned from the Olight S10/S20, anti-glare coatings can also bias tint perception one way or another. On the whole, I would not have noticed any obvious difference between my two samples without carefully looking for them.


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## MichaelW (Jun 24, 2013)

ET needs to redo the outputs: ditch the strobe as a third light output, because there are two hidden ones, and click & a half instant access
SAR mode 500, 250, 125 lumens, and a push/hold Turbo of 1,000 lumens [next revision with xm-l2 u3], and a camping mode of 250, 50, 8 lumens, with the same push/hold 1,000 lumens Turbo!
other than that, this seems to be an outstanding light.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 24, 2013)

MichaelW said:


> ET needs to redo the outputs: ditch the strobe as a third light output, because there are two hidden ones, and click & a half instant access
> SAR mode 500, 250, 125 lumens, and a push/hold Turbo of 1,000 lumens [next revision with xm-l2 u3], and a camping mode of 250, 50, 8 lumens, with the same push/hold 1,000 lumens Turbo!
> other than that, this seems to be an outstanding light.


Not a bad suggestion for modes ... although I expect most would like to see a higher initial mode on a SAR setting. 

But I agree, those levels would be more practical.


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## MichaelW (Jun 25, 2013)

My line of reasoning is thus; if you can maintain the tension on the electronic switch, and the grasp on a potentially hot body, then the light will maintain the high power draw, and high heat, regardless if that reduces the expected lifespan of the LED (and extra electronic components).

So 500 lumens, with a nice long flat regulation, isn't bad. During a search, if something catches your eye grab turbo double your lumens and be certain. 

ET already has so many bigger guns, so to speak. Unless they want to make this a 4-mode via head rotation light... 3 cells/3 modes has a nice feng shui to it.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 25, 2013)

regulator said:


> Do you think you could include runtime on the 185 lumen level that is part of the tactical mode. I would think this light would be most efficient at this level and would probably even run very flat regulated with alkalines. The output at this level still seems quit powerful and I bet runtime is many hours - which impresses me for such a small light (and only 3 AA's).


Here you go:






It's a very impressive showing for only 3xAA.


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## regulator (Jun 25, 2013)

Thank you very much Selfbuilt. That's pretty impressive output/runtime for 3AA's alkalines at this level. The 220 lumen output with the large reflector does a surprisingly good job that is not that noticeably different than high to the eye. I'm impressed with this light.


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## selfbuilt (Jun 27, 2013)

BTW, I forgot to mention it in the review, but Olight M21-X diffuser cover fits and works on the GX25A3. It fits on all the way, and doesn't feel as tight as it does on the M21-X, but seems to hold ok. The Butler Creek Blizzard scope cover #4 (1.5-1.59", 38.1-40.38mm) fits, but is a very tight fit. This means that you may find it hard to close the cover at first (i.e., needs a fair amount of force to lock-on), but it may loosen with time.

I understand that Eagletac is supposed to be offering a kit version of this light (with screw-on diffuser cover and filters), but I am not sure if that's available for sale anywhere.


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## Rexlion (Jun 30, 2013)

Another great review. I could not wait for it, though... I had to get a 'neutral' GX25A3 as soon as it became available and have been enjoying it for most of the month already. The beam is really warm, just about the same temp as the old Fenix TK20 that so many of us went bananas over a few years ago, but of course soooo much brighter. I also picked up a Streamlight Stinger 75702 anti-roll ring for the head, and this will be my main bedstand light. It was great for the camping trips I took this month, too.


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## selfbuilt (Jul 13, 2013)

I've updated the review with 3x14500 runtimes. Note that the early production run GX25A3 I was sent wasn't able to fit my protected cells (e.g., my protected AW 14500s were too tall to allow the tailcap to screw down sufficiently). Eagletac has revised this, by shortening the springs. They have sent me a revised handle (which should currently be included on shipping lights). The revised springs can handle all length cells (i.e., my alkaline and NiMH still all work fine).







As you can see though, the light is no brighter on 3x3.7V Li-ion - the regulated levels are the same. Runtime is similarly not that different from standard NiMH Eneloop. The reason for this is that you have to consider the voltage when doing capacity conversions (i.e., Work-hours = Amp-hours * Voltage). By that measure, the actual capacity to do work is not that different between a 750mAh 14500 and 2000mAh Eneloop.


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## Trevtrain (Jul 14, 2013)

Just watched the video for this and the SX25A6. Has anyone else noticed this company cutting corners?

The box and lights are now marked as EAGTAC rather than EAGLETAC. I wonder if leaving out the letters LE results in much of a cost saving? 


But seriously - has there been a name or ownership change here? Or am I just late in noticing it?

Edit: OK, just did a thread search - seems this happened some time ago. I'll shutup now.  Anyone else just picked up on this?


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## Stefano (Jul 26, 2013)

I bought today a GX25 but I found that the thread of the head is defective.
Movement rough and noisy when switching from medium to turbo, small imperfection in the thread.
The seller replaces the torch
This problem has happened to someone else?

translated with google translator


http://

 Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## kj2 (Jul 26, 2013)

Stefano said:


> I bought today a GX25 but I found that the thread of the head is defective.
> Movement rough and noisy when switching from medium to turbo, small imperfection in the thread.
> The seller replaces the torch
> This problem has happened to someone else?


The threads on my A3 aren't 'defective', but there is some play in it.


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## Stefano (Jul 26, 2013)

kj2 said:


> The threads on my A3 aren't 'defective', but there is some play in it.




I'm sorry for this problem, tonight I wanted to try the torch, with the SX25L3 instead no problem, perfect in every way.
question:
I selected tactical mode with the SX25L3 and I see that it loses only if I remove the batteries.
With GX25A3 I select tactical mode and if I turn off the torch and then turn on again is back in regular mode.
And 'this normal?


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## selfbuilt (Jul 28, 2013)

Stefano said:


> I selected tactical mode with the SX25L3 and I see that it loses only if I remove the batteries.
> With GX25A3 I select tactical mode and if I turn off the torch and then turn on again is back in regular mode.
> And 'this normal?


I gather it is, as mine does the same thing (i.e., the memory of selecting tactical doesn't persist past a battery change). :shrug:

As for the threads, that's definitely a defect and should be exchanged. I've seen this happen from time to time with all makers.


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## liquidwater (Jul 28, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> I gather it is, as mine does the same thing (i.e., the memory of selecting tactical doesn't persist past a battery change). :shrug:
> 
> As for the threads, that's definitely a defect and should be exchanged. I've seen this happen from time to time with all makers.



i just checked my g25c2 xml version, i took out the battery and put it back in, and it stayed on tactical mode. ^_^


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## selfbuilt (Jul 29, 2013)

liquidwater said:


> i just checked my g25c2 xml version, i took out the battery and put it back in, and it stayed on tactical mode. ^_^


Yes, the memory for regular vs. tactical holds in my G25C2 as well. It is just some of the the newer electronic switch GX/SX/MX-model lights where it doesn't seem to (like the GX25A3. SX25L3, etc.).


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## liquidwater (Jul 29, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, the memory for regular vs. tactical holds in my G25C2 as well. It is just some of the the newer electronic switch GX/SX/MX-model lights where it doesn't seem to (like the GX25A3. SX25L3, etc.).



hmm i see, you should contact eagletac about that and see what they say,im interested in their responce.


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## Stefano (Jul 31, 2013)

I returned the torch that had the problem of thread, I'm waiting to receive a replacement.
Before sending I did some testing, sometimes keeps storing the tactical mode, some not ..
The rest are favorably impressed with the power, beam and tint (magnificent cool withe)

(Translated with Google translator)


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## Stefano (Aug 6, 2013)

Stefano said:


> I returned the torch that had the problem of thread, I'm waiting to receive a replacement.
> Before sending I did some testing, sometimes keeps storing the tactical mode, some not ..
> The rest are favorably impressed with the power, beam and tint (magnificent cool withe)
> 
> (Translated with Google translator)




My EagleTac is back, but I chose NW.
No rotation problem with this specimen, excellent performance, great job EagleTac!
I made a comparison with the Fenix ​​TK35 and the EagleTac is defended very well!
Only the tint leaves me a little uncertain .. looks very hot (warm) and around the spot there is a slightly yellowish.
Can anyone tell me if this small yellowish hue is this normal? I was unlucky with the tint or is a feature of these LEDs last generation?
I want to specify that yellow halo around the spot is very very slight, it's just perceivable.
(I hope Google translation understandable)

I hope to make someone happy with beamshot, I wanted to do in the forest but it was not possible.

next photo: Fenix TK35 U2 (turbo - 860 lumens)


http://

 Uploaded with ImageShack.us




Next photo : Eagletac GX25A3 NW - (turbo level)



http://

 Uploaded with ImageShack.us



I did some short tests and I must say that despite Fenix ​​state 340 meters seems to me that the throw is similar.
EagleTac declares 284 meters
I should add that in the last meters the EagleTac has better visibility, perhaps thanks to neutral tint.
Excellent performance for EagleTac!


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## selfbuilt (Aug 6, 2013)

Stefano said:


> My EagleTac is back, but I chose NW.
> Only the tint leaves me a little uncertain .. looks very hot (warm) and around the spot there is a slightly yellowish.
> Can anyone tell me if this small yellowish hue is this normal? I was unlucky with the tint or is a feature of these LEDs last generation?
> I want to specify that yellow halo around the spot is very very slight, it's just perceivable.


That would be normal. There is commonly a tint shift between the hotspot, corona, and spill. This is due to the interaction of the reflector with the emitter. It can be more visible with some tints than others.


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## AngryDaddyBird (Aug 6, 2013)

love your reviews! most of my buys are based on them. thanks for taking the time to do them!


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## Stefano (Aug 6, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> That would be normal. There is commonly a tint shift between the hotspot, corona, and spill. This is due to the interaction of the reflector with the emitter. It can be more visible with some tints than others.




Thank you your answer is reassuring to me, I have only one other light NW (Zebra H51w) and the neutral color is a new world for me.
Meanwhile, I discovered that the glass is very dirty, someone at the factory has touched with your hands, there are fingerprints on the glass and also looks very greasy.
Do you have a tip for the cleaning? EagleTac on the site says not to touch ..


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## selfbuilt (Aug 7, 2013)

Stefano said:


> Meanwhile, I discovered that the glass is very dirty, someone at the factory has touched with your hands, there are fingerprints on the glass and also looks very greasy. Do you have a tip for the cleaning? EagleTac on the site says not to touch ..


I would just use a lint-free cloth, and see if that worked. Slightly moistened with water may help. The problem with using any sort of clearning solution is that it may damage the anti-glare coating.


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## Trevtrain (Aug 10, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> I would just use a lint-free cloth, and see if that worked. Slightly moistened with water may help. The problem with using any sort of clearning solution is that it may damage the anti-glare coating.



You could also purchase some photographic lens cleaning fluid and disposable lens tissue from a camera shop. Be sure to use only the minimum pressure needed.


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## Stefano (Aug 12, 2013)

Thank you all for the answers.
The glass was very dirty, I used neutral soap for the face and water - then I bought a microfiber cloth for LCD, very soft and antistatic.
Now it seems ok


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## Dr.444 (Sep 3, 2013)

*Energy saving technology*
This feature prolongs turbo output runtime, by reducing output current by 45% after 200 seconds at turbo mode.
With this feature disabled by user, it reduces output current by only 15% after 200 seconds at turbo mode for higher output.

You sure it's 25% & 10% as u said in the review ?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 3, 2013)

Dr.444 said:


> This feature prolongs turbo output runtime, by reducing output current by 45% after 200 seconds at turbo mode.
> With this feature disabled by user, it reduces output current by only 15% after 200 seconds at turbo mode for higher output.
> 
> You sure it's 25% & 10% as u said in the review ?


The manual that came with my sample is printed with the 25% and 10% numbers. The current version of the website says 45% and 15%. 

For the record, my testing shows a ~30% and ~10% drop in output, which is more consistent with the original printed specs. However, it is possible that may have changed.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Sep 5, 2013)

Paired with the Olight diffuser, I think this will likely be a great light for a family member. Also, during a discussion of the Nitecore EA4 someone posted a picture of a great idea -- (s)he connected a lanyard to the EA4 and Olight diffuser. Since the GX25A3 has a place to connect a lanyard, hopefully what that person did can be replicated with the GX25A3 and Olight diffuser. See post # 1118 at this _(link)_

*Question:*
I've postponed purchasing the GX25A3 because I'm confused about purchasing the Olight diffuser. I've seen customers refer to it sometimes as a model M21 and sometimes as a model M21X, and I've seen retailers refer to it sometimes as a model M21, M21X, or M22. Since I don't know anything about the Olight M21, M21X, and M22 flashlights, I'm unable to make sense out of the varying descriptions of this diffuser. I've also come across at retailers' websites a white Olight diffuser # M20 , M18, and M10; but those three might have different dimensions than the Olight diffuser that fits the GX25A3 and EA4 ?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 6, 2013)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> I've seen customers refer to it sometimes as a model M21 and sometimes as a model M21X, and I've seen retailers refer to it sometimes as a model M21, M21X, or M22. Since I don't know anything about the Olight M21, M21X, and M22 flashlights, I'm unable to make sense out of the varying descriptions of this diffuser. I've also come across at retailers' websites a white Olight diffuser # M20 , M18, and M10; but those three might have different dimensions than the Olight diffuser that fits the GX25A3 and EA4 ?


I know it's confusing. The problem is due to the changing head diameters over various models. 

Currently, the M21X (40.3mm bezel) and M22 (41.2mm bezel) share the exact same diffuser head, which will fit on the GX25A3 (38.6mm). Note that the fit is ok but not overly tight (i.e., Olight diffusers have a fair amount of stretch). The early M21 had a slightly smaller head (38.5mm), and not sure if the diffuser was the same as the current M21X/M22 (but either way, it would fit, given the identical measures).

The M20 series diffusers are definitely too small (35.6mm bezel), as are the smaller series ones.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Sep 6, 2013)

Thank you selfbuilt for explaining that! That helps me a lot.


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## MojaveMoon07 (Sep 6, 2013)

There is one more aspect of the GX25A3 that I am considering. I enjoy warm white indoors. But outdoors the tint of my warm white 4sevens high cri MiNi AA sometimes makes things here in the city look discolored such that I feel like my visual recognization might be impaired when I'm trying to avoid hazards in the road or on the sidewalk. Looking at Stephano's photo posted up above, it looks like the tint of the NW GX25A3 is halfway between white and warm white. In the city I'm wondering whether the CW or the NW GX25A3 would be preferrable. According to the comments I've read, the CW GX25A3 does not have the cold white tint or the blue tint of the typical cool white LED.

On the other hand, two retailers list the NW GX25A3 as out of stock/backordered. So maybe the NW was limited in quantity ?


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## holylight (Sep 8, 2013)

Can ea4 40mm diffuser fit in?


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## selfbuilt (Sep 8, 2013)

holylight said:


> Can ea4 40mm diffuser fit in?


Yes, it will fit. But like with most 40mm diffusers, it is not overly snug on the GX25A3's 38.5mm head.


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## holylight (Sep 9, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> Yes, it will fit. But like with most 40mm diffusers, it is not overly snug on the GX25A3's 38.5mm head.



Ok thanks


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## WildLight (Sep 23, 2013)

MojaveMoon07 said:


> There is one more aspect of the GX25A3 that I am considering. I enjoy warm white indoors. But outdoors the tint of my warm white 4sevens high cri MiNi AA sometimes makes things here in the city look discolored such that I feel like my visual recognization might be impaired when I'm trying to avoid hazards in the road or on the sidewalk. Looking at Stephano's photo posted up above, it looks like the tint of the NW GX25A3 is halfway between white and warm white. In the city I'm wondering whether the CW or the NW GX25A3 would be preferrable. According to the comments I've read, the CW GX25A3 does not have the cold white tint or the blue tint of the typical cool white LED.
> 
> On the other hand, two retailers list the NW GX25A3 as out of stock/backordered. So maybe the NW was limited in quantity ?




I am on the same boat as you, I was looking for the neutral L2 T6 version but seems out of stock everywhere, don't know if because limited quantity or because it is such a successful light that got sold out fast everywhere. However I wrote Eagletac and last week Christina from costumer service replied that they will begin to ship to dealers from factory in a couple of days.

In the meantime I got the L2 U2 cool white version and I love it!! Can't wait to go into the woods this weekend to play with this amazing flashlight.

I love outdoors activities (backpacking, hiking, etc) that is why I am looking for the neutral white version but after seeing Stefano pictures (thank you very much) I wonder if is not too warm for my taste, when I wrote ET regarding this they replied saying the neutral white led of this batch is 4C.

Finally, thank you so much to Selfbuilt for such amazing reviews, is because of yours reviews that I base on my flashlight purchases.


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## selfbuilt (Sep 24, 2013)

WildLight said:


> I am on the same boat as you, I was looking for the neutral L2 T6 version but seems out of stock everywhere, don't know if because limited quantity or because it is such a successful light that got sold out fast everywhere. However I wrote Eagletac and last week Christina from costumer service replied that they will begin to ship to dealers from factory in a couple of days. ... when I wrote ET regarding this they replied saying the neutral white led of this batch is 4C.


Yes, I think there is a lot of interest in the neutral white options from Eagletac, so dealer stock inventories can sometimes be an issue. And of course, tint bin can vary - 4C a little warmer than some would like, I suspect.

And :welcome:


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## Animalmother (Oct 9, 2013)

My Eagletac GX25A3 can't do 910 lumens on 3AA.
It says in my manual that the max ANSI rated was 738. 
Whats going on?


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## selfbuilt (Oct 9, 2013)

Animalmother said:


> My Eagletac GX25A3 can't do 910 lumens on 3AA.
> It says in my manual that the max ANSI rated was 738.
> Whats going on?


Just a guess, but does the manual specify XM-L U2 (as opposed the XM-L2 U2)? That would likely account for it.

Regardless of what the manual says, you can tell if you have a XM-L2 by looking at the emitter. It should appear exactly as the one in this review (i.e., have a silver surround square, not a green one - and no bond wire grid over the surface of the die). If you see a wire grid and a green surround, you have XM-L version.

The XM-L2 U2 should be ~14% brighter on max than the XM-L U2 (although could in fact be anywhere from 8-20%, given the range of output bins).


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## Animalmother (Oct 9, 2013)

XM-L U2, I did not know!
So the XM-L L2 is what really wanted. It gets 910 ANSI on 3 eneloops?

I do have a silver square and no noticeable grid. Manual says xm-l u2.
I compared it to my nitecore ea4 and the ea4 is much brighter so i know it's not the 910 ansi i bought it for.

exact light
you can see the emitter in the picture is matches your description. 
Manual says U2 though, odd.


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## selfbuilt (Oct 10, 2013)

Animalmother said:


> I do have a silver square and no noticeable grid. Manual says xm-l u2.
> I compared it to my nitecore ea4 and the ea4 is much brighter so i know it's not the 910 ansi i bought it for.


Yes, then you got the XM-L2 as you expected. Performance should be comparable to the one I reviewed here.

Checking the manufacturer website, I only see technical specs for the newer XM-L2 light - which match what I reported here. But if you follow the link for the PDF manual download, what they provide does indeed have the old XM-L specs (with 738 lumens are you indicated). I guess they haven't updated their printed manuals with the proper XM-L2 specs yet. :shrug:


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## moldyoldy (Oct 10, 2013)

Begin quote from SelfBuilt's review: 

*"Potential Issues*

As with other Eagletac models where output mode is set by the degree the head is tightened, you need to keep all contact surfaces in the head scrupulously clean. Long-term reliability of the switching mechanism/pins is unknown."

end quote -----------------

My failure report of a GX25A3 switching/pin system is based on a single sample. Hence, a datapoint of 1, degrees of freedom 0, so nothing can be concluded except that my copy of this light had a switching failure. The head-twisting switching system relies on 3 spring-loaded pins to maintain contact with the dual rings. In this single case, one of the spring-loaded pins developed a weakness in the spring such that the pin no longer contacted anything. The light remained mostly in low mode. I tried pushing on the pins to determine if maybe I could 'pop out' that pin. no luck. 

At the same time I purchased the SX25L3 MT-P0 model which uses the same switching mechanics of 3 pins. However these pins are thicker in diameter which gives more room for a more robust spring. So far no problems.

Nevertheless, the head-rotation to change the light levels also rotates the on/off switch. That really messes up my handhold. I gave up and returned the GX25A3 for credit. I decided to retain the SX25L3 primarily because of the impressive output from a single LED and to see if I could get used to that switching mechanism. eh, still not a desirable method to switch levels.


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## Animalmother (Oct 10, 2013)

Aweee I see, that makes sense. I am relieved! Thanks again selfbuilt


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## selfbuilt (Oct 11, 2013)

moldyoldy said:


> At the same time I purchased the SX25L3 MT-P0 model which uses the same switching mechanics of 3 pins. However these pins are thicker in diameter which gives more room for a more robust spring. So far no problems.


Interesting observation - and one that I share.

FYI, I had some contact with Eagletac after this review, where I expressed my concern about the potential long-term stability of the pins. They said they were working on improving the design, and I note that my SX25L3 (which I received subsequently) does seem more robust in that regard.


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## D6859 (Dec 3, 2013)

selfbuilt said:


> You drop down again to the third (and final) level after a ~120 degree turn.



How accurate is this? I just got mine and by quick testing it seems that it needs only approx. 30 degree turn (about the length of the power button, less than 90 degree for sure) to drop to the third level. Since the head needs to be fully closed to have turbo/hi mode - and applied a little force to ensure it's closed, it often feels a little jammed when trying to get lower modes. I think this might be a problem when trying to find the medium mode with gloves on. I even accidentally opened the tailcap twice when testing the UI, so that the light turned off. I'm afraid I don't like this kind of UI. 

Also, the threading in my light seems to differ 180 degrees from yours. I.e. the power button is over 'G' of the text 'GX25A3' when dropping to med mode. I can provide pictures if my explanation is not understandable. As a result, I find the light better fitting into my left hand and the power button easier to use with left (though, the UI is easier to use with right). This isn't a problem, because I'm kind of a both-handed, but might annoy someone really right-handed user. 

But I think I'll go out testing the light and try to use it wearing mittens.


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## Rexlion (Dec 3, 2013)

D6859, I think the logo might be printed randomly in terms of rotational location, so it probably varies from unit to unit. As for turn distance, my light goes from high (tight) to medium with just a slight loosening turn, but then needs about 120 degrees of turn to reach low. Are you saying that with yours the high to low is just a 30 degree turn? That sounds rather convenient.... or does that give you some problems finding and staying in medium when you want it?

I can't imagine having trouble keeping the tailcap on. Sounds like perhaps you didn't have it on tight enough to start with. Make sure the tailcap is fully tight before you start... a fair bit tighter than the head will ever be. Let us know how you make out with further use.


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## D6859 (Dec 4, 2013)

Rexlion said:


> D6859, I think the logo might be printed randomly in terms of rotational location, so it probably varies from unit to unit.


What I mean is that the body of the light seems same as in selfbuilt's pictures. Those pairs of "holes" in the body are under the text "GX25A3" and the big "hole" under the text "Eagletac". What is different is that when screwing the head close the power button stops little left to the text "GX25A3" (instead of "Eagletac"). So when holding the light in my left hand as in one of selfbuilt's pictures I have two holes for my middle and ring fingers where there should be one big hole. But as I mentioned, this isn't a problem as I would carry the light in my left hand most of the time. 



Rexlion said:


> As for turn distance, my light goes from high (tight) to medium with just a slight loosening turn, but then needs about 120 degrees of turn to reach low. Are you saying that with yours the high to low is just a 30 degree turn? That sounds rather convenient.... or does that give you some problems finding and staying in medium when you want it?



Yes, 30-45 degrees from hi to low. I tried using the light wearing mittens. The grip was actually better, but still I often missed the med when trying to switch to it either having the hi mode flash or end up to low mode. I think i have to check the threads because the head feels stuck when switching from hi/tight to med. There's also a high scratchy sound when turning the light from hi to med. I thought it's one of the pins, but could it be a defect in threading? Maybe it needs lubricant? I can try to take video including the 30 degree turn and the sound when I get back home. But you're right it would be convenient once I get used to it. Also, staying in medium isn't problem because there's friction in the threading, just finding it is.



Rexlion said:


> I can't imagine having trouble keeping the tailcap on. Sounds like perhaps you didn't have it on tight enough to start with. Make sure the tailcap is fully tight before you start... a fair bit tighter than the head will ever be.



I think this happened because the head is so thight and I was holding the tailcap with my littlefinger. Btw, it seems that the tailcap needs to be only a little untightened (not loose yet though, since that would result in turnoff) that the light starts flickering. I thought the tailcap was thight when I laid it on the table. The light started flickering, but twisting the already-tight tailcap fixed it. 



Rexlion said:


> Let us know how you make out with further use.



I will. Thank you for your reply and advice!


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## selfbuilt (Dec 4, 2013)

Hmm, presumably has something to do with the pins, given that level of variability from my sample. Of course, things may have changed as well - hard to know until we hear from others with recent samples.


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## Rexlion (Dec 4, 2013)

I think you may want to contact your dealer, or Eagletac directly, and describe this situation to them. The 'high scratchy sound' does not seem normal. Together with the short rotation and the unusual tightness needed to obtain high, I think you may have a manufacturing defect. It could get worse with time. That scratching sound is worrisome.


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## D6859 (Dec 9, 2013)

I think I found the culprit. There's a little piece of solder (= tin?) on the outer contact ring. The head has already carved part of it away, but I think it makes the head get stuck. I contacted my dealer already and hope that they're changing the light. Here's a link to a picture (6,5 Mt):
http://thetravis.kapsi.fi/private/eagletac_gx25a3_en.png

Thank you for your advice. I return to post comments about the new light once (if) I receive it.


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## D6859 (Dec 23, 2013)

I got a replacement light last week and I've been using it now visiting home. No defects nor scratcy sounds and the twist is about 120 degrees from hi to lo. I prefer the longer twist since it often suffices to turn light from lo to med if I need more light, so I don't accidentally lose all my night vision flashing the hi. I use the light with a plastic diffuser which I made (until I can order the Olight diffuser) and the lowest level is enough for walking in the dark. I only wish it had bigger power button when using it wearing gloves/mittens. Happy holidays!


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## Rexlion (Dec 23, 2013)

It's great to hear that they took care of you and that the replacement is working well.


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## cistallus (Feb 11, 2014)

I just got this light - I generally like it. I noticed a couple of quirks I've not seen mentioned.

First, using Regular mode, with head untwisted so it comes on in low - when I click it on, there is an extremely brief brighter level before it is in low - it's just at the edge of my visual perception but is definitely there - I wouldn't quite call it a flash, it's probably not at max level but it's significantly brighter than the low level it settles into.

Second, I found an interesting mode - using the tailcap that has the switch - if I unscrew the tailcap slightly, and press the tailcap switch, I have a momentary moonlight mode. It won't click on but it gives momentary as long as I hold it. I estimate it at 1/2 to 1 lumen. However, sometimes I have to click it an extra time, first press doesn't turn on, click it again and it's on - in other words the first use especially after leaving it alone a while does not turn on, but second try does. This works with the tailcap unscrewed anywhere from just barely loosened (e.g. unscrewed 1/32 a turn) through about 1/3 of a turn loose. And it doesn't seem to matter which position the head is in, the moonlight level stays the same. I have only tried this in the Regular mode, with Eneloops.

Now a question: what is the light pattern when it hits its low-voltage detection? Its pamphlet/manual doesn't say.


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## selfbuilt (Feb 11, 2014)

cistallus said:


> I just got this light - I generally like it. I noticed a couple of quirks I've not seen mentioned....
> Now a question: what is the light pattern when it hits its low-voltage detection? Its pamphlet/manual doesn't say.


Thanks for sharing. I can't say I recall the preflash on low on my sample, but that is certainly not uncommon on current-controlled lights (e.g., Fenix and Foursevens lights often experience this as well). And I don't have the tailswitch assembly, so can't confirm the "moonlight" on my sample. Sounds unusual, but if its reliable, that would be a bonus.

As for low voltage warning, it depends on the battery source. Check out my runtimes: the low-voltage "blips" in output occur at different points. For NiMH, they only happen when the output is very low (i.e. <10% initial output). But on Alkaline, the warning flash starts soon after the light falls out of regulation (i.e., >50% initial output).


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## Rick_R (Feb 13, 2014)

D6859 said:


> I think I found the culprit. There's a little piece of solder (= tin?) on the outer contact ring. The head has already carved part of it away, but I think it makes the head get stuck. I contacted my dealer already and hope that they're changing the light. Here's a link to a picture (6,5 Mt):
> http://thetravis.kapsi.fi/private/eagletac_gx25a3_en.png
> 
> Thank you for your advice. I return to post comments about the new light once (if) I receive it.



I had this same issue, but to lesser degree. Lubing the threads & working the head back and forth got everything working smooth. The threads on Eagletac's seem to be rougher than lets say the 5 Nitecore's that I have. Working the head back and forth & Cleaning a couple three times solves these issues. I also have it's big brother (SX25L3 MT-G2 Kit Ver.) & it was little rough too. The contacts at the head & body need to 'break-in a little' ('get-to-know each other') also. Use it, clean & lube 2-3 times, & it is smooth running soon.


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## Rick_R (Feb 26, 2014)

Opps, it has a problem.
In the head there are 3 spring loaded brass pins that contact 2 of the 3 rings of the center section. The shortest of them that contacts the middle ring, was soldered in at an angle, leaning towards the center spring. Well this pin was just contacting the inner edge of this middle ring, lifting and tearing a very small piece away. This caused the light to only operate on high and medium. No other modes available (except Strobe, with the button switch). 
This area was cleaned well, and "Deoxit-Red" applied (works well in the SX25L3 too). 
So, it's going back for an 'exchange'. Check your's out, see where the wear marks are. If on or near the edge's on these contact area's, you may end-up with an issue.
I reeeaally like this light (and it's big brother "SX25L3"). So much so, that 2x EA4's that I have have been put into the "Emergency" box".


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## Salter (Apr 6, 2014)

I just got an eagletac GX25A3 for my birthday. the manual says to use 3AA or 14500. I put in the AA.I just watched a review of this light on U tube and the commentator said not to use AA Alkaline as they would damage the light. He said I should use nimh instead. Is this true?


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## selfbuilt (Apr 6, 2014)

Salter said:


> I just got an eagletac GX25A3 for my birthday. the manual says to use 3AA or 14500. I put in the AA.I just watched a review of this light on U tube and the commentator said not to use AA Alkaline as they would damage the light. He said I should use nimh instead. Is this true?


The point is that all alkaline batteries have the potential to leak. The corrosive material that leaks out of the cells will destroy any electrical circuit it comes in direct contact with. Given how much people invest in their flashlights, it doesn't seem to make sense to risk destroying it to save a couple of dollars on a pack on NiMH (which will likely out-live the flashlight anyway, given how many times you can recharge). NiMH have different chemistry, and won't leak.

:welcome:


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## Salter (Apr 7, 2014)

Thanks, I have Nimh but they were not charged when I got this light. This is my first light of this kind and I do not want to ruin it. I have already made the switch to Nimh. Apparently the word got out about my birthday and my liking of flashlights ( I have lots of old style ones), another one is on its way to me. Looking forward to it.


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## beerwax (Oct 4, 2014)

I got me a GX25A3. nice bit of kit. 
the good - plenty, well built, comfy, bright. a superb light well done ETAC

could it be better - maybe - I have difficulty changing the batteries in the dark, and finding the switch in the dark. 

cheers - bee


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## cistallus (Oct 4, 2014)

Put on the other tailcap that comes with it, then you have a rear switch and can easily find it in the dark.


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## Animalmother (Oct 13, 2014)

How do you get the 10% drop instead of the 25% drop after the stepdown?
Edit:
N/m, I overlooked it in the manual.


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## CelticCross74 (Oct 13, 2014)

After nearly a month with my new GX25A3 I have gotta say this little light is awesome! It runs forever on new Eneloop Pro's. Beats my EA41 on brightness.


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## leon2245 (Jan 23, 2015)

selfbuilt said:


> Interesting observation - and one that I share.
> 
> FYI, I had some contact with Eagletac after this review, where I expressed my concern about the potential long-term stability of the pins. They said *they were working on improving the design*, and I note that my SX25L3 (which I received subsequently) does seem more robust in that regard.



Over a year later now, does anyone know if they've since changed the gx25a3 to the thicker pin/spring design too lke the sx25L3?

Also, I've noticed in the past some eagletac lights have had a nichia 219 hcri option, they've never made any gx25a3's with those have they?


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 8, 2015)

Several months of GX25A3 ownership later and this light is still one of the best LED light purchases I have ever made. Its compact size has it riding in my coat pocket most of the time. The sheer output from the 3 Eneloop Pro's still amazes me. I have had none of the issues that the other members have posted about. Mode switching is perfect. Threads perfect. Love the dual side switch/tailcap switch layout. I believe the GX25A3 to be the most sophisticated light in the 3/4xAA class and best for EDC. Still expensive though.


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## Rick_R (Mar 8, 2015)

I have this little guy also. Same set-up and it's big brother (SX25L3_MT-G2). These are fantastic lights. A little high on maitenance though, I clean with alcohol and lube/treat with Deoxit-Red.
Between this light and my other 2 x EA4's, the GX25A3 allways win's with it's weight, size, output, UI and quality.


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## selfbuilt (Mar 8, 2015)

CelticCross74 said:


> Several months of GX25A3 ownership later and this light is still one of the best LED light purchases I have ever made.





Rick_R said:


> I have this little guy also. Same set-up and it's big brother (SX25L3_MT-G2). These are fantastic lights. A little high on maitenance though, I clean with alcohol and lube/treat with Deoxit-Red.


Thanks for the comments - I agree, it's a great little light (but you do have to keep up on thread/contact surface cleaning). Personally, I've always found the Eagletac interface intuitive and easy to use.


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