# Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA



## ernsanada (Mar 4, 2008)

I just received the Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA from Kaidomain.

The description says on the KD site says, " Uses original CREE Q2 LED bulb ". Near the bottom the description says " Another stunning products by Ultrafire after the C2. This C3 is a compact light, equipped with a CREE XR-E P4 LED Bulb. It gives 60+ lumens on a single 14500 cell or about 50 lumens for a single NI-MH AA cell, excellent! Built quality is great and the switch performance is lovely. "

On the DX site it says Cree XR-E P4.

So what kind of Cree does this light use?

Cost $20.40. 

A great deal for the price!

From ordering to shipping took 12 days to Socal.

Comes with only a lanyard.

The fit is excellent, grade A.

The finish is excellent, grade A. Brushed Stainless Steel with no flaws.

Reverse one stage rear clickie.

Uses 1AA Battery. Can use a 14500 Rechargeable Lithium Battery.

The beam tint on this light is the only negative I can find. The corona has a creme color surrounded by a purplish color tint.



























Inside view of the back of the Cree Module.











Inside view of the reverse single stage rear clickie.


























This a view of the back of the battery tube where the rear clickie screw on.






Cree module screws out very easy with no effort.






Is this a Q2 or P4 Cree?







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Size comparisions.

Left, Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA. Right, Ultrafire C3 1AA






Left, Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA. Right, Ultrafire C3 1AA







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These are the lux readings I got. I am using a Meterman LM631 Light Meter measured at 1 meter. I waited 2 minutes before taking the readings. I am using fully charged Energizer Nimh 2300mAh Batteries in both lights and an AW Protected 14500 in the C3 SS. 







Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh - 990 lux @ 1 meter

Ultrafire C3 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh - 770 lux @ 1 meter

Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel AW Protected 14500 - 1170 lux @ 1 meter


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Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh @ 77"






Ultrafire C3 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh @ 77"






Left, Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh. Right, Ultrafire C3 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh






Left, Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh. Right, Ultrafire C3 1AA Energizer Nimh 2300mAh Stepped down exposure







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I tried to fit a Duracell Nimh 2650mAh in the Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel and it fits. It would not fit in the Ultrafire C3 1AA.

That is why I used the Energizer Nimh 2300mAh in both lights during the lux readings.






AW's Protected 14500 with the label fit in the Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel with no problems. The AW's Protected 14500 Black will not fit in the Ultrafire C3 1AA.


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## BigBluefish (Mar 4, 2008)

Thank you for another very nice review. I ordered one from DX yesterday; can't wait to get it.


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## LightWalker (Mar 4, 2008)

Thanks for the fine review. This one looks like a winner. I've ordered two so far from Kadomain and I hope they are as good as yours.

If Ultrafire lies about their emitters like they do about their battery capacity then they all probably have P4's.

I sometimes wonder if the C3 Q5 is just a harder driven P4 but that light is quite bright.


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## bspofford (Mar 5, 2008)

Any chance you might have a RexLight pill to see if it fits this light? Although they're not available now, the multimode Q2 pill/reflector upgrade kit is listed at $15 on KD.


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## FelmarCorp (Mar 5, 2008)

Great review and pics !

just placed an order for this light :thumbsup:


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## StefanFS (Mar 5, 2008)

Nice review. I ordered one, the first 'budget' light in a long time I intend to keep and use myself. It seems to be a good host for a new driver and emitter. I hope the switch is ok. Anybody checked resistance in the switch? Does the reflector screw into the head, or is it held in place by the pill?
Stefan


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## aljsk8 (Mar 5, 2008)

hi

i recieved this light a few days ago

i was amazed with the quality

last night i dropped it on the kitchen (tiled) floor
and now its stopped working - ill take it appart today to try and figure out whats wrong

if its dead i might swap out all the bits as its a really nice host

im pretty sure its a p4 cree as i think the q2 has only phospor on the die and not the full size of the dome i might be wrong though

Alex


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## bessiebenny (Mar 5, 2008)

Q2 and P4 cannot be distinguished by how it looks.
Also, there's not much difference in output anyways.

BTW, Ernasanada, I see that your UF C3 is using a Cree P3 emitter.
So I guess that's why we see such difference in output with SS C3.

Man. I gotta order mine soon. This light looks great. Love your pics! =)


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## aljsk8 (Mar 5, 2008)

sorry not to derail this thread but i received a q2 from DX and it definetly looks different to a p4 ill take a photo when i get chance to show you guys

p4 - is all yellow inside the dome (phosphor)

q2 just yellow on the die silver everywhere else under the dome

its a very noticeable difference - maybe ive got a reject

Alex


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## magic_elf (Mar 5, 2008)

Well we now know that all the stainless steel bodies before this release have over inflated prices, this could be a great host for better electronics and emitter.

Now all we need is to someone to get ahold of these in bulk and fit them with some of the nice customs drivers and emitters available


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## aljsk8 (Mar 5, 2008)

there are different grades of stainless steel and the price difference is quite large - that said a Chinese factory paying employees $1 an hour making 1000s of these is going to be a lot cheaper than a US custom builder or outfit making 100 stainless steel lights or even 1 light

material is only part of the cost so other lights are not over inflated

i paid a lot of money for a custom stainless steel light but if you melt the metal down and see what its worth then its probably very little - theres a lot more to it than that


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## bessiebenny (Mar 5, 2008)

aljsk8 said:


> p4 - is all yellow inside the dome (phosphor)
> q2 just yellow on the die silver everywhere else under the dome
> 
> its a very noticeable difference - maybe ive got a reject


 
It's no defect. Recent Cree emitters come with a silver core / yellow die.
That's just the new manufacturing process. Even P4 looks like that now. =)


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## ernsanada (Mar 5, 2008)

The Rexlight 2.0 Cree Module and Reflector drops right in and it works! Even though they are different sizes.

A great improvement in tint and if you like the Rexlight UI. I like the tint but not the UI in the Rexlight but I think the Reflector and Module has found a new home.

Now I am having problems with the lens o-ring. It sticks out if the reflector is tightened too much. This is the same problem on the first generation C3 I have.

Left, Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA Relector. Right, Rexlight 2.0 Reflector






Left, Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA Module. Right, Rexlight 2.0 Module






Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA, Stock Reflector and Module






Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA, Rexlight reflector and Module


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## phreeflow (Mar 5, 2008)

Anyone know where we can get our hands on some of the 2.1 upgrade modules? KD's been out for a while...


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 5, 2008)

phreeflow said:


> Anyone know where we can get our hands on some of the 2.1 upgrade modules? KD's been out for a while...



Try requesting it in BST forum or look for few people who claimed that they were disappointed in the module to sell it you.

Apart from KD, there no other dealer selling that module.

- Vikas


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## bspofford (Mar 5, 2008)

bspofford said:


> Any chance you might have a RexLight pill to see if it fits this light? Although they're not available now, the multimode Q2 pill/reflector upgrade kit is listed at $15 on KD.


 


ernsanada said:


> The Rexlight 2.0 Cree Module and Reflector drops right in and it works! Even thought they are different sizes.


 
As I hoped! Thanks for the answer. I ordered one Rex 2.1 module to test my hypothesis, but my s/s C3 and Rex module kit haven't arrived yet. Wish I would have ordered more modules when they were available! Hope KD will have more soon.


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## Patriot (Mar 6, 2008)

I still can't believe they can make a light that nice and sell it for $20....:huh:


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## nerdgineer (Mar 6, 2008)

I just received mine and it is very, very nice. 40% more output than my early single mode C3, white color, great finish, smooth smooth nicely fitted SS on SS threads, yada yada. An absolute steal at this price if you don't mind the extra weight...


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## Russianesq (Mar 6, 2008)

*GREAT Job!* *Thanks so much!* :twothumbs


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## phreeflow (Mar 7, 2008)

bspofford said:


> As I hoped! Thanks for the answer. I ordered one Rex 2.1 module to test my hypothesis, but my s/s C3 and Rex module kit haven't arrived yet. Wish I would have ordered more modules when they were available! Hope KD will have more soon.



Seems like a recent purchase...where'd ya get the Rex 2.1 module? KD said they aren't getting anymore and have been out a while?:thinking:


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## Hypnosis4U2NV (Mar 7, 2008)

aljsk8 said:


> last night i dropped it on the kitchen (tiled) floor
> and now its stopped working - ill take it appart today to try and figure out whats wrong


 
The same thing happened to me with the regular C3.. I figured it was a fluke when I dropped it and it stopped working with AA batteries.. It works with 14500 batteries, so you could try those..

I ordered this hoping the same wouldnt happen and after reading your experience I may need to wrap this up in bubblewrap when it arrives..


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## bspofford (Mar 7, 2008)

Re: Rexlight 2.1 module & reflector for $15, they were only available on KD. I didn't realize that they were not going to get more :-(


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## bspofford (Mar 8, 2008)

The new description just posted on KD drops all reference to "original Q2 emitter," and the Review section continues to indicate that this is a P4 emitter.


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## phreeflow (Mar 8, 2008)

bspofford said:


> The new description just posted on KD drops all reference to "original Q2 emitter," and the Review section continues to indicate that this is a P4 emitter.



Oddly, KD has two different ads for the Stainless C3....*KD#: SKU4140* still advertises the Q2 Cree LED...http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Produ...px?TranID=4140. 

Whereas, *KD#: SKU4217* only mentions P4 but comes with a holster for $0.22 more: https://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/Prod...px?TranID=4217

 I don't get it but I still like my C3 and would recommend it.


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## fxstsb (Mar 8, 2008)

phreeflow said:


> Anyone know where we can get our hands on some of the 2.1 upgrade modules? KD's been out for a while...


Why is it a better module? Thanks


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## alfreddajero (Mar 9, 2008)

*ernsanada, just wanted to say that im not much of a poster but i have read a lot of your reviews on torches......this light should be coming sometime this coming week and im looking forward to getting it.*


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## bspofford (Mar 9, 2008)

Got three UF C3 stainless steel 1XAA lights from KD yesterday. Regarding fit and finish, I had to deburr all the threads on the battery tubes (six sets) because they had rather long bits of sharp metal coming off near the o-rings. I had to use a jeweler's file, 400 grit silicone carbide sandpaper and a wire wheel to address the thread issues. One switch was working in spite of open solder joints. Resoldering them was no big deal. All the brass switch housings were corroded, and I had to clean them up. One lens was broken, but I had a spare. One reflector has a visible defect, and I may later swap it with another from an older black C3.

My upgrades included changing the o-rings and silicone switch covers to GITD and exchanging the black lanyards for nicer silver ones. (I wasn't able to get a GITD o-ring to stay in place, so I left the very tiny black one in place.) After investing a little time and elbow grease, they are indeed quite nice little lights. Regardless of whether these are Q2 or P4 emitters, the stainless steel lights are generally both warmer and brighter than my black C3 lights.


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## BigBluefish (Mar 9, 2008)

Any difficulties or things to look out for when switching the clicky cap to a GITD one? I've read that some other lights' tail/switch modules don't like being taken out for a clicky cover change, and spontaneously disassemble themselves.


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## bspofford (Mar 9, 2008)

BigBluefish said:


> Any difficulties or things to look out for when switching the clicky cap to a GITD one? I've read that some other lights' tail/switch modules don't like being taken out for a clicky cover change, and spontaneously disassemble themselves.


 
*Tailcap disassembly considerations:*
1) Unthread the switch module and also unthread the little plastic cap over the switch itself. Remove the plastic spring collar, and clean up the brass battery tube contact surface with fine (0000) steel wool.
2) Check the solder joints on the switch and resolder if necessary. Reassemble the switch module taking care not to crossthread the plastic as it goes into the brass housing.
3) Remove the black silicone switch cover and replace it with a GITD cover. Before inserting the latter, trim 2mm of the central post using a razor blade.
4) If you plan to change the lanyard, it is easier done with the tailcap disassembled.
5) Thread switch module back into tailcap.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 10, 2008)

I just received it. I am impressed with it. Only thing which I noticed was that both o-rings are of the same size. It needs thicker o-ring on the front. I don't think the one there is sealing the head. Threads are dry but are well cut. It certainly could use some polishing to bring out shine but as it does look nice.

- Vikas


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## f22shift (Mar 10, 2008)

i thought p4's had 3 wires to the led and q's had 4...


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## bspofford (Mar 10, 2008)

phreeflow said:


> Anyone know where we can get our hands on some of the 2.1 upgrade modules? KD's been out for a while...


 
I discovered that KD offers the Rex 2.1 002 module in a multipack (sku#3392) for about $50. Don't know if this is four or five modules, but I hope it is more than three since one was $15 when it was available.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 10, 2008)

f22shift said:


> i thought p4's had 3 wires to the led and q's had 4...



No, P4 on-wards have 4 wires at least.

- Vikas


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## phreeflow (Mar 11, 2008)

bspofford said:


> I discovered that KD offers the Rex 2.1 002 module in a multipack (sku#3392) for about $50. Don't know if this is four or five modules, but I hope it is more than three since one was $15 when it was available.



Interesting find..thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find it on KD's site...not even by searching by SKU. KD's site isn't the most user friendly.


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## datiLED (Mar 11, 2008)

phreeflow said:


> Interesting find..thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find it on KD's site...not even by searching by SKU. KD's site isn't the most user friendly.


 
Look on page 5 of the CREE lights. If this is for 4 modules, I will be buying a set. I got my Rex 2.1 module yesterday from a previous order, and am patiently waiting for the SS C3 to show up.


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## bspofford (Mar 11, 2008)

datiLED said:


> Look on page 5 of the CREE lights. If this is for 4 modules, I will be buying a set. I got my Rex 2.1 module yesterday from a previous order, and am patiently waiting for the SS C3 to show up.


 
I placed an order for the multipack a couple of days ago without knowing how many modules I was ordering. Visited KD again today, and I can't find any reference to 4 modules. This SKU is listed as in stock, and KD usually doesn't allow an order to be placed unless it is in stock (unlike the other site). At $12.50 per module/reflector, it seems like a nice upgrade.


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## BigBluefish (Mar 11, 2008)

bspofford said:


> I placed an order for the multipack a couple of days ago without knowing how many modules I was ordering. Visited KD again today, and I can't find any reference to 4 modules. This SKU is listed as in stock, and KD usually doesn't allow an order to be placed unless it is in stock (unlike the other site). At $12.50 per module/reflector, it seems like a nice upgrade.


 
Probably been asked before, I've been following both the SS C3 threads, mine's on the way from DX. Anyway, is this upgrade a simple drop-in replacement for the C3 module/reflector, or do I have to risk my light with my soldering skills (or lack thereof)?. Erm, and would this give the light the same UI as the Rex 2.1?


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 11, 2008)

My impressions after spending a night with it 

1) Overall, highly recommended. An excellent bargain.
2) Runs well on regular alkaline, primary lithium, NiMh and LiION
3) Constant current converter when run with NiMh/Lithinum/LiION battery
4) LiION only slightly brighter than NiMh. RexLight 2.1 is definitely brighter on LiION
5) Very good smooth beam shape with slight hint of yellow at the center
6) Rear clicky somewhat hard to press
7) Excellent quality all throughout
8) Too heavy to use it as EDC light
9) Converter is not the most efficient, expect no more than 2 hours of light
10) Easy to upgrade as everything comes apart
11) I wonder if I would have prefered gleaming stainless steel finish versus the muted brushed one that is on this light.

After receiving this light, I ordered another one because I suspect it will a) go out of stock b) cost lot more than the current price c) or both. This light needs to be added to the Budget Hall of Fame list if there is one.

- Vikas


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## phreeflow (Mar 11, 2008)

bspofford said:


> I placed an order for the multipack a couple of days ago without knowing how many modules I was ordering. Visited KD again today, and I can't find any reference to 4 modules. This SKU is listed as in stock, and KD usually doesn't allow an order to be placed unless it is in stock (unlike the other site). At $12.50 per module/reflector, it seems like a nice upgrade.



Are you guys sure this is a multi-pack? It would be horrible if we ordered it and only one module came. I didn't see any reference at all to the number of units...?? Any thoughts?


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## ernsanada (Mar 11, 2008)

bspofford said:


> I placed an order for the multipack a couple of days ago without knowing how many modules I was ordering. Visited KD again today, and I can't find any reference to 4 modules. This SKU is listed as in stock, and KD usually doesn't allow an order to be placed unless it is in stock (unlike the other site). At $12.50 per module/reflector, it seems like a nice upgrade.



I emailed KD and asked if they had in stock sku#3392. KD (Connie) said out of stock awaiting an order soon.

When I posted the question about the Rexlight modules in the CPFMP Rexlight thread, Jerry said that he didn't think they weren't going order anymore because they had to order 500 pieces, that there was no interest for any modules.

So what's the answer?


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## vetkaw63 (Mar 11, 2008)

ernsanada said:


> I emailed KD and asked if they had in stock sku#3392. KD (Connie) said out of stock awaiting an order soon.
> 
> When I posted the question about the Rexlight modules in the CPFMP Rexlight thread, Jerry said that he didn't think they weren't going order anymore because they had to order 500 pieces, that there was no interest for any modules.
> 
> So what's the answer?



I would take a 4 pak.
Mike


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## Nake (Mar 11, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> Nice review. I ordered one, the first 'budget' light in a long time I intend to keep and use myself. It seems to be a good host for a new driver and emitter. I hope the switch is ok. Anybody checked resistance in the switch? Does the reflector screw into the head, or is it held in place by the pill?
> Stefan


 
I'm not sure about reading resistance since my MM has four scales and I don't know what they mean. On the 00.0 scale it showed .1 upon hookup and right away dropped to zero.

In my lightbox there was no difference in output between the tailcap and a jumper wire. That I can understand, very good. :thumbsup:


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## bspofford (Mar 11, 2008)

Received my Rexlight 2.1 002 upgrade kit today. It came with the pill and reflector shown in the picture, but it also came with AR glass and a thick plastic disc. I suspect that the latter replaces the metal washer between the switch and the silicone cover in the tailcap.

I exchanged the lens, reflector and pill, and all seem to fit the Ultrafire C3 stainless steel just fine. Side-by-side with a second light on 14500 cells, the one with the Rex pill has a larger, warmer, and brighter hotspot. The multiple modes with memory are nice too with low, medium, high, fast strobe, and SOS. I have several Ultrafire C3 stainless steel lights and hope I can get more Rexlight module kits to upgrade all of them!:thumbsup:


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## BigBluefish (Mar 11, 2008)

Well, if KD (and DX) are listening, I'd take 3 or 4 of these modules, order an equal number of SS C3s and give them for birthday and Christmas gifts to non-flashaholic friends. Practical, cool, and not too expensive. And I, of course, would get to play with them first, just to make sure they worked OK.


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## Nake (Mar 11, 2008)

bspofford said:


> ....and a thick plastic disc. I suspect that the latter replaces the metal washer between the switch and the silicone cover in the tailcap.


 
The plastic disc goes over the Cree ring and centers the LED as it enters the bottom of the reflector. The board the LED is soldered to is not stationary. Put them together outside of the light and you'll see what I mean.


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## ernsanada (Mar 11, 2008)

I started a thread at CPFMP Dealers about Kaidomain, We Want More Rexlight 2.1 Module Kits.

I was thinking the kits can include the Rexlight 2.1 Module, Reflector and Lens.

I did try the Rexlight Lens but it seemed too thick, there was a gap at the tailcap and battery tube.

Maybe if we can drum up some interest we can get more modules.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 11, 2008)

When the module was first announced, it was supposed to be only for the original owners of the 2.0 light. The rationale given was that at $15, he was not making any money on it and was offering it out of his good heart.

Would you be willing to up the ante?

- Vikas


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## bspofford (Mar 11, 2008)

Vikas Sontakke said:


> When the module was first announced, it was supposed to be only for the original owners of the 2.0 light. The rationale given was that at $15, he was not making any money on it and was offering it out of his good heart.





Vikas Sontakke said:


> Would you be willing to up the ante?
> 
> - Vikas




But a Rex 2.1 002 is only $30 if you buy two for $60. KD would be selling a $20 Ultrafire + $15 Rex module for $35. Maybe they would have a better margin.:shrug:


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## bspofford (Mar 11, 2008)

ernsanada said:


> I started a thread at





ernsanada said:


> CPFMP Dealers about Kaidomain, We Want More Rexlight 2.1 Module Kits.
> 
> I was thinking the kits can include the Rexlight 2.1 Module, Reflector and Lens.
> 
> ...




My kit arrived today and contained four items: 1) Rex 2.1 module, 2) reflector, 3) thin AR lens (sapphire?), and 4) plastic disc. The plastic disc is too thick to act as an isolator, and it keeps the emitter from properly entering the reflector.


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## bspofford (Mar 12, 2008)

Nake said:


> The plastic disc goes over the Cree ring and centers the LED as it enters the bottom of the reflector. The board the LED is soldered to is not stationary. Put them together outside of the light and you'll see what I mean.


 
Noticed that the product description describes this as an "LED alignment sheet." It is much too thick to act as an isolator and prevents the dome of the emitter from protruding into the reflector properly, so I think it is only a template. The emitter seems to have thermal paste holding it to the board, and the template can be used to recenter it before threading the module into the head.

- Upgrade your Rexlight 2.0 with this REX2.1 newest module
- This kit contains: 1) 1 x CREE Q2 Emittor
2) 1 x All new Rexlight Superconstant driver
3) 1 x New reflector with improved reflective curve
4) 1 x AR coated glass lens
*5) LED alignment sheet
*


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## Nake (Mar 12, 2008)

bspofford said:


> Noticed that the product description describes this as an "LED alignment sheet." It is much too thick to act as an isolator and prevents the dome of the emitter from protruding into the reflector properly, so I think it is only a template. The emitter seems to have thermal paste holding it to the board, and the template can be used to recenter it before threading the module into the head.


 
The reflector has a lip that will only let the pill screw into the headcap/bezel so far. Even with the pill bottomed out against the reflector my "alignment sheet" still has movement, that is, it's not touching the reflector. Are you using the reflector that came with the upgrade kit or the old one? Some people wrote they did use the old one.

That's how everything comes together for me. Whatever works for your light is fine, I guess.


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## StefanFS (Mar 12, 2008)

Nake said:


> In my lightbox there was no difference in output between the tailcap and a jumper wire. That I can understand, very good. :thumbsup:


 
Thanks for your answer, I got mine a few days ago and the switch in the light is performing really well for a change, seems to be a very good switch. Quite often budget lights have bad low cost switches. Tonight my C3 will get an CREE Q5 emitter and maybe a new driver!
Stefan


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## Nake (Mar 12, 2008)

StefanFS said:


> Thanks for your answer, I got mine a few days ago and the switch in the light is performing really well for a change, seems to be a very good switch. Quite often budget lights have bad low cost switches. Tonight my C3 will get an CREE Q5 emitter and maybe a new driver!
> Stefan


 
You're right about the switches on low budget lights. 
I'm thinking a Q5 with a FLuPIC for mine.


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 12, 2008)

Initially I had reported that this light uses constant current driver but now I am not so sure any more. My light was quite less bright on slightly used and rested NiMh than when compared to fresh off the charger battery.

Are there are any runtime or input current graph for this light?

- Vikas


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## bspofford (Mar 12, 2008)

KD increased the price on the single (not available) Rex 2.1 module to $17.58 today. Maybe they are concerned that folks might buy a $20 stainless steel Ultrafire C3 and a $15 Rex 2.1 module instead of a $30 Rexlight 2.1 (@ 2 for $60). I've been buying a lot of Ultrafire stainless steel C3 lights, Rex 2.1 lights, and Rex 2.1 modules instead of other lights sold by their main competitor, so I think keeping the price down on the modules would be good for business at KD.


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## ernsanada (Mar 12, 2008)

I just received my second Ultrafire C3 Stainless Steel 1AA from Deal Extreme

Costs $20.90.

From ordering to receiving the light took only 6 days to Socal. This was one of the fastest times I received a light from Deal Extreme.

Comes with only a lanyard.

The fit on this light. I gave a grade B. There is a gap at the lens bezel assembly and the battery tube.

The finish I give the grade A.

















Note the gap at the lens bezel assembly and battery tube, on the left. The one with th large gap is the newer light I received today.

When you look at the first light (on the right) I purchased see there is a smaller gap at back by the battery tube and rear clickie assembly.






Note the gap at the lens bezel assembly and battery tube, on the bottom.


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## alfreddajero (Mar 12, 2008)

It seems mine is getting here by snail mail......are you going to use a lathe to get rid of the gaps or are you going to leave it like that.


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## nerdgineer (Mar 12, 2008)

ernsanada said:


> ...Note the gap at the lens bezel assembly and battery tube, on the bottom...


Tastes differ, so to me, the gap is good. 

It means that the end of the body tube is bottoming out on the PCB (or tail switch) contact ring before the shoulder of the body hits the end of the head/tail cap, i.e. that a solid electrical contact has been established. 

On Ultrafires in particular, I've sometimes had to grind down the end of the head/tail cap so the body doesn't stop too soon and get a poor connection inside. This is especially common where I've tightened the light engine or tail switch, increasing the gap for the body to bridge.

I'd rather have positive, no flicker contact and a gap rather than vice versa, but maybe that's just me.


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## ernsanada (Mar 12, 2008)

I never thought about it that way.

Thanks!


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## Walt175 (Mar 12, 2008)

The one I got from KD 2 days ago looks like the one you just got from DX. There is a gap on the head side but not the tail side. I had to disassemble the head to fix the lens oring. It had started to squeeze out. Tried to fit a glowring, but it was too thick to fit properly.

I love mine, and will probably order a few more for gifts.


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## ernsanada (Mar 12, 2008)

I decided to change out the boring black rear clickie switch covers to the GITD tailcap covers.


Before







After


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## alfreddajero (Mar 13, 2008)

Looks good man......


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 13, 2008)

Since this light does not have non-conducting HA-II coating, the body tube does not need to touch either PCB or the switch assembly. The negative current path is provided through the threads. You can loosen threads on both ends until they are almost ready to fall out but the light will still stay on as long as battery is making contact with fronth PCB and the rear spring.

that's why if you can tighten the pill or better, replace it with Rex 2.0 pill but keep the stock reflector, you can remove the gap at the head.

By the way, I managed to get the glow-ring in. Here is the order
stock_extremely_thin_ring
glow-ring
glass
reflector
pill

It looks great but I am little afraid that the glow ring might pop out but it has not yet. I am worried that if it popos out, it might take the stock ultra-thin ring with it and I will never find it again.

When I had tried to put the glow ring between the glass and the reflector, it got squished badly.

I also used Mother's Al+Mag cleaner/polisher and made it little more bling-bling.

- Vikas

- Vikas


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## alfreddajero (Mar 13, 2008)

Did you use a cloth or dremel........


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## bspofford (Mar 13, 2008)

I also put GITD silicone switch covers and GITD body o-rings on my three. I found one thin 18mm GITD lens o-ring from another fried AA light that seems stable after a couple of days. The lens o-ring has to be thin to work with a C3, so the glow from it isn't very bright. I'm restraining myself from using my buffing wheel with polishing compound since the brushed stainless steel doesn't show fingerprints as much. Silvery gray lanyards look nice too. I only got one Rex 2.1 upgrade kit, so one light has Rex AR glass, reflector, Q2 emitter and multimode regulated circuit board. Unfortunately, it seems that the supply of Rex 2.1 module upgrade kits from KD won't be coming very soon.


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## alfreddajero (Mar 13, 2008)

I guess ill do it when i get done playing with the light.......lol.....


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## aljsk8 (Mar 13, 2008)

as others have said - it works fine with no gap - personally i like a gap - but just not a big one so i will adjust the gap to about 0.2mm

got an rv7 and a q5 on the way and have totally stripped one light down - removed the led and driver from the aluminum pill ready for the mod

ill keep you posted

Alex


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## Vikas Sontakke (Mar 13, 2008)

Believe it or not, I just used Bounty towel to wipe the polisher on and then another paper towel to wire it off.

Who got the silver gray lanyard? Mine came with run of the mill black lanyard.

- Vikas


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## bspofford (Mar 13, 2008)

Vikas Sontakke said:


> Believe it or not, I just used Bounty towel to wipe the polisher on and then another paper towel to wire it off.
> 
> Who got the silver gray lanyard? Mine came with run of the mill black lanyard.
> 
> - Vikas


 
I bought bulk 7" lanyards from several sources and had a lot of blacks and a few grays. Some may have come from KD, but they don't seem to have gray at this time. Others came from a lanyard company that was selling them on clearance for about 25 cents each. Some of the original JetBeam lanyards were nice quality and gray, and substituting black would like fine with their dark HAIII finish.


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## bspofford (Mar 14, 2008)

Vikas Sontakke said:


> Who got the silver gray lanyard? Mine came with run of the mill black lanyard.





Vikas Sontakke said:


> - Vikas




Did some research on this one and noted sku#3372 on the bag containing the silver lanyards. KD notes that sku#3371 & sku#3372, both $0.73, may be available in other colors if you e-mail them. Mine just came in silver because they were apparently out of black.


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## alfreddajero (Mar 14, 2008)

Finally got mine in......Pretty pleased with it........changed the black cap for the orange one......dont have any gitd ones so the orange will suffice for now.


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## Thor20003 (Mar 14, 2008)

When did you order? I ordered on 3/7 and it still shows as waiting on supplier.


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## Thor20003 (Mar 14, 2008)

DX now says backordered with ETA of 3/19/08.

Bummer!


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## alfreddajero (Mar 14, 2008)

I ordered mine on 3/02/08 and it shipped out on the 4th.........it came yesterday but no one was home to sign for it.


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## alfreddajero (Mar 14, 2008)

I dont know whats going on then, you should have gotten the light already.


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## bspofford (Mar 14, 2008)

While you're waiting for your stainless steel C3, you might check out the new stainless steel C6 (1X16340) on DX for only a few dollars more. It's smaller and brighter.


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## BigBluefish (Mar 14, 2008)

I ordered mine on 3/3, along with some GITD o-rings for various lights, and I got an e-mail saying my 'order' shipped on 3/6. Today, the o-rings arrived, but no sign of my SS C3.  Looks like DX split my order up. Funny they'd ship a couple dozen o-rings all the way from HK ... They aren't going to be making money on that deal.


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## alfreddajero (Mar 17, 2008)

I like mine a lot......it has a home in my pocket, i guess the only thing that i dont like is that when its on for about 30 to an hour that sucker gets hot.......am i the only one with that problem.


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## FelmarCorp (Mar 19, 2008)

I ordered and paid on March 4th...

nothing yet ! :shrug:

Won't they even send out an email stating the status of your order ?


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## ernsanada (Mar 19, 2008)

If it's KD you can check your status by opening your account. It's very easy. All you need is your email and a password. It shows all your orders and gives you a tracking number.

DX does the same as above but most of the time they will send you a tracking number.


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## Bigsy (Mar 19, 2008)

DX seem to have had stock delivered now, mine was shipped today.


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## gravityz (Mar 19, 2008)

i ordered 2
yesterday it said processing but still not shipped
the item itself has the status"backordered"

could it be the case that they shipped al incoming lights and that mine is still on backorder?


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## ernsanada (Mar 19, 2008)

ernsanada said:


> If it's KD you can check your status by opening your account. It's very easy. All you need is your email and a password. It shows all your orders and gives you a tracking number.
> 
> DX does the same as above but most of the time they will send you a tracking number.




Links to tracking below

Link to Kai Domain

Link to DealExtreme


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## BigBluefish (Mar 19, 2008)

gravityz said:


> i ordered 2
> yesterday it said processing but still not shipped
> the item itself has the status"backordered"
> 
> could it be the case that they shipped al incoming lights and that mine is still on backorder?


 
Same deal here. Ordered on 3/3, no e-mail saying it had shipped. Now, the site says the item is backordered.


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## sino (Mar 19, 2008)

I think demand for this light has been huge, maybe more than KD and DX anticipated. In a thread on the Dealer's Forum, KD said they sold out 1000 units, and have more on the way. Assuming DX had similar inventory, that's a lot of SS C3s! 

I'm sorry I didn't jump in right away. (I was waiting for Bessiebenny's review on the single mode version first.) This light will surely be in demand for a long time, and prices could very well go up. :sigh:


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## alfreddajero (Mar 19, 2008)

Yes it seems to get good reviews as well here, on this board........i seem to favor it now since it has a home in my pocket........but this light is tiny and hefty which for me is a good thing, hope they come out with an extension tube for it. I put on a single layer of tennis grip since it is small and my hands have a habit of sweating.......now the grip is better.









I do plan on ordering another one when they get them back in........


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## RainerWahnsinn (Mar 21, 2008)

@friends of C3 SS,

I have one in my pocket an three on the way. To share my sources with you:

as you know Kai and DX
Ebay
and this one

perhabs we are lucky and they are still available. 

Rainer


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## bspofford (Mar 21, 2008)

RainerWahnsinn said:


> @friends of C3 SS,





RainerWahnsinn said:


> I have one in my pocket an three on the way. To share my sources with you:
> 
> as you know Kai and DX
> Ebay
> ...




I've had problems with New Excite keeping my money and not sending the product. They also don't provide aftersales support. Buyer beware!!!:thumbsdow


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 7, 2008)

nerdgineer said:


> Tastes differ, so to me, the gap is good.
> 
> It means that the end of the body tube is bottoming out on the PCB (or tail switch) contact ring before the shoulder of the body hits the end of the head/tail cap, i.e. that a solid electrical contact has been established.



I got my stainless steel C3 in the mail today. I've sworn I wouldn't buy any more Crees (damn rings) but this one got such nice reviews. Besides, I'm a sucker for stainless steel. 

Fast shipping from DX! I'll first say I'm very pleased with this light. It's smaller than I expected, and brighter too. Mine came with the OP reflector and the newer (?) style Cree with the silver backing.

I've got gaps both head and tail, but I can somewhat adjust them. I'm pretty sure the head and/or tail are bottoming out not on the body, but on the battery. If I bottom out the head against the body before loading the battery, I'll get a larger gap at the tail end. The reverse is also true (bottom out the tail first).

Not that I mind... but it's probably wise for me not to overtighten, as I suspect I might crush the battery.

Overall, a very excellent light. Well worth the purchase.


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## c8h8r8i8s8 (Apr 7, 2008)

Mine shipped from DX on 3/27. I will report back here when it arrives.


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## Nake (Apr 7, 2008)

I put a 7880 board in my second light. Also a Seoul and a smooth reflector. Initial brightness with a NiMH is about 120lm, wow. Lotta work, grinding down the circuit board from 17mm to 15mm. The threads on the reflector also had to be ground off for fit. The OP reflector worked OK, but I like the beam of a Seoul with a smooth one. Now what shall I do with my third one. Maybe a P7 with a battery pack on my belt. :naughty: J/K


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## alfreddajero (Apr 8, 2008)

Post up a pic when you get the chance i would like a look see.


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## gravityz (Apr 8, 2008)

did you use the blue 18mm o-rings from DX

i ordered these but was not sure if they were the right size.
they are the only ones in that size
20mm might be to big and 19mm does not exist.



Vikas Sontakke said:


> Since this light does not have non-conducting HA-II coating, the body tube does not need to touch either PCB or the switch assembly. The negative current path is provided through the threads. You can loosen threads on both ends until they are almost ready to fall out but the light will still stay on as long as battery is making contact with fronth PCB and the rear spring.
> 
> that's why if you can tighten the pill or better, replace it with Rex 2.0 pill but keep the stock reflector, you can remove the gap at the head.
> 
> ...


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## Vikas Sontakke (Apr 8, 2008)

From KD
3021	Water-tight O-Ring Seals(18mm 5pcs)	1	$0.88

I also stretched them a bit by putting them around 3D maglite overnight. As long as you don't tighten the reflector too much, the ring stays nicely inside.

- Vikas


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## Norm (Apr 9, 2008)

The one I received from KD didn't even have a lens O ring.
Norm


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## ykb (Apr 9, 2008)

The one I just received from KD doesn't have an O-ring at the lens either. The washer which screws into the tail cap isn't gold coloured but silver, and has a bit of a rough finish. The edges on the tail cap and body could do with a smooth. The two holes on tail cap (for lanyard, clip etc) are rough on the inside. Also, the O-rings on the body are black, not orange.
At least they're issues simple to remedy 
Everything else good!


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## jur (Apr 11, 2008)

I had a look through this and other threads, but nothing came up... does anyone have an idea on the run-time? Am i correct in that the output is about 50 lumen?


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## Norm (Apr 11, 2008)

ykb said:


> The one I just received from KD doesn't have an O-ring at the lens either. The washer which screws into the tail cap isn't gold coloured but silver, and has a bit of a rough finish. The edges on the tail cap and body could do with a smooth. The two holes on tail cap (for lanyard, clip etc) are rough on the inside. Also, the O-rings on the body are black, not orange.
> At least they're issues simple to remedy
> Everything else good!


Mine is exactly as you describe.
Norm


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## KFE (Apr 11, 2008)

Something like that going on here as well, I bought one from DX and one from Kai about a month or so back. The one from DX came last week, the one from Kai this week.
The difference between the two is so big I wonder if they were even made in the same factory. The only thing that seems to be the same on both lights is the black switchcaps.
Some differences:
-The DX one has a Cree with a silver base, the led on the Kai has a yellow base.
-The DX one has a screw in reflector and the Kai one just sits loose
-DX, O-ring at lens...Kai, none
-They use different swithes, the DX one seems more solid. Swith assembly is different too, the DX one has a more solid construction.
-The pill containing the LED and driver looks different. Better finish on the DX there.
-The writting on the head is a different style on both lights.
-The DX one is a lot brighter, and has a much smoother beam. Much more rings in the Kai's beem.
-DX, orange o-rings, Kai, black
-The grooves on the tailcap are bigger and further apart on the Kai light compared to the DX light.

And most clearly of all, the finish:
The DX C3 has a smooth brushed finish, the threads are a bit rough, but other then that it's a nicely finished light...
The Kai one on the other hand, well, they only machined out the parts, but there seems little finishing done after that. It still has the machining grooves all over the body and the tailcap, only the head seems to be smoothed somewhat. It also has sharp edges all over the light.

The both share the gaps though, but I put some thin black o-rings in those, and that gives it a pretty nice look. Nicer then the gaps anyway, if you ask me 

Ofcourse, I can't say if this counts for all the Kai and DX C3's, but to me the DX light is the clear winner, it actually feels like a light that's twice as expensive as the Kai C3.


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## ykb (Apr 11, 2008)

My replacement C3 SS from DX just arrived. Compared to KD's version the differences are pretty much how KFE (thanks! :thumbsup describes, except the KD version is _much_ brighter, with bigger hotspot. The DX version seems to be the same brightness as a regular C3. The DX version has bigger gaps but is much smoother to the touch all round.
Just to echo what KFE said: I also wonder if they were made in the same factory ??


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## BigBluefish (Apr 11, 2008)

ykb said:


> My replacement C3 SS from DX just arrived. Compared to KD's version the differences are pretty much how KFE (thanks! :thumbsup describes, except the KD version is _much_ brighter, with bigger hotspot. The DX version seems to be the same brightness as a regular C3. The DX version has bigger gaps but is much smoother to the touch all round.
> Just to echo what KFE said: I also wonder if they were made in the same factory ??


 
Did your replacement from DX have the yellow based, or silver based emitter? I just got one from DX a couple of weeks ago, with the silver base emitter, and it is bright (as in brighter than my RC-A3, and even my RC-G2) and has a wide hotspot.


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## ykb (Apr 11, 2008)

The replacement from DX has the silver based emitter, and the KD version has the yellow base. 
Just had a look at the heads - the reflectors have different size holes for the emitter. The DX version has a small 'O' gap around the dome, and KD version with no gap.

Edit: Just to confuse things more - the initial SS C3 I bought (which was returned because of chipped lens) from DX when they originally appeared had the yellow based emitter!


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## gravityz (Apr 12, 2008)

i got my o-rings from DX in

i ordered 16mm GITD's to replace the o-ring at the head
this because it does not seal properly.

to my suprise the o-ring was the same size so no help there

i however also ordered 18mm blue GITD o-ring and guess what.

if you install these at the head end it it a tight fit

this is a must have if you want your light to be water resistant

SKU.7319


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## BigBluefish (Apr 12, 2008)

ykb: Hmm, this is confusing. I'm very pleased with my DX SS C3. Except for slightly loose head threads, which is almost a non-issue since they were cleaned and lubed, I really like this light. It's very bright, almost as bright, if not equal, it seems to my RC-N3. I know the quality of these from both DX and KD (more so the latter, I seem to be hearing) has been all over the board, but you think they'd have these issues sorted out by now.  

gravity: thanks for the tip on the blue 18 mm GITD o-rings. I'll order a batch with my next SS C3. Funny, but I can't get into the head or switch on my current one. I may need to get a set of circlip(sp?) pliers or a hemostat to get those things unscrewed.


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 12, 2008)

KFE said:


> -The DX one has a Cree with a silver base...
> -The DX one is a lot brighter, and has a much smoother beam...
> -DX, orange o-rings...
> 
> The DX C3 has a smooth brushed finish, the threads are a bit rough, but other then that it's a nicely finished light...



That pretty much describes the stainless C3 I just received from DX. I was surprised a single AA powered light could be so bright. I'm really impressed. Beam is surprisingly smooth for a Cree, too. This light is definitely a keeper.

The only negative I can say is that this thing get HOT! Like, hotter than a Surefire L4 hot. I've got a primary lithium cell in it (not a li-ion) and left it running for 10~15 minutes. It kinda surprised me how hot it was when I went to pick it up. Clicked it off and let it cool - no harm done.


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## KFE (Apr 12, 2008)

Ty_Bower said:


> This light is definitely a keeper.



That is sure is...I actually have another one inbound from DX.
I really like the smooth bare steel look one these lights, and the simple clean look is a nice change from all those other 'cheap' looking chinese designs.


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## c8h8r8i8s8 (Apr 13, 2008)

I ordered mine on 3/27 from DX, and it arrived on 4/12. Overall I am very impressed with this light. It is much brighter and much smaller than I expected.

Mine does have the gaps that others are reporting, and they are definitely due to the battery. If there is no battery in the light, I can screw it tight enough to where there are no gaps. It is so small that it fits in my palm, also it is very heavy for it's size, it seems built very well. My light is much whiter than I expected, however the hot spot seems to be slightly off center. Is anyone else experiencing this? 

I am overall very pleased with this light, and I'm sure that it will be my new pocket light.


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## Ty_Bower (Apr 14, 2008)

c8h8r8i8s8 said:


> Mine does have the gaps that others are reporting, and they are definitely due to the battery. If there is no battery in the light, I can screw it tight enough to where there are no gaps.



Mine is similar. I can't screw the ends down to zero gap with the battery out, but the gaps are definitely much smaller without the battery. I don't really care. It doesn't seem to affect the operation any. I just need to be careful not to crush my NiMH cells.


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## RainerWahnsinn (Apr 15, 2008)

Got my second one today from DX. LED with the silver background, exelent finish. When I was doing the first inspection and cleaning, lens-o-ring brokes into dust. I was lucky a GID o-ring from a sample (bought on CPF) fits well. The gap is larger now, but I fit it with a meaty black o-ring.

Nice one mode torch now.

Rainer


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## cpf (Apr 15, 2008)

Just received the SS C3 I ordered on 30th March from DX. My noob comments :

Definately one of the best looking products I've seen, seems to be very well built too, might last forever ( I wouldn't mind using it forever ! That's why I'm going to stock whatever spares I find. ).

The Eneloop charger I ordered from OnlineShop Hong Kong hasn't arrived yet so I can only use it with regular Duracell alkalines. But still it's the brightest flashlight I've owned. People who see it are amazed that "something so cute can turn into a laser" - very few people know how bright modern LEDs can be.

Gap in the front, bigger gap at the rear, even without inserting the battery. GITD o-rings should cover them, on the way.

Threads need cleaning and lubing. Tomorrow. 

Just cleaned/polished the exterior with micro fiber cloth. Wouldn't like to polish it, brushed finish is perfect. Must get a nice leather holster.

One doubt, the beam looks OK - very slight bluish tint, but there seems to be a yellowish streak in the outermost part of the beam for about 20 degrees. Can it be rectified ? Is it due to the emitter being misaligned or something ? Don't have a camera, but image below should give you an idea :

SS UF C3 beam problem

Thanks all, you helped me select a really good FL.


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## Energie (Apr 17, 2008)

Got two C3 yesterday (DX+KD). Both with a greenish spot in the beam.
A closer look on the emitter shows some inclusions, like melted silicone.


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## RainerWahnsinn (Apr 17, 2008)

I guess we all need to find somebody who offers a "SS-C3-Kit" with ucl, reflektor, Q5pill, quality circuit and o-rings 

I could not resist and my fourth is on the way.


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## bspofford (Apr 17, 2008)

RainerWahnsinn said:


> I guess we all need to find somebody who offers a "SS-C3-Kit" with ucl, reflektor, Q5pill, quality circuit and o-rings .


 
The 5-mode Q5 stainless steel C3 at DX is very bright and less expensive than the P4 or Q2 versions + Rex 2.1 upgrade kit. This model has similar issues with Q&A.


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## datiLED (Apr 17, 2008)

Received mine from KD yesterday. 

-Finish is nice, but there are a few long scratches that may polish out.

-There is a 1mm+ gap at the head and tail. There is no o-ring at the lens (Fenix spare fit perfectly, though).

-The beam is quite bright, and on the warm side. There are a few subtle rings, but the tint is not objectionable. I like it. It is easily as bright as the Rexlight 2.1 uprade.

-The Rexlight module and reflector _do not_ fit. They are too loose, and will not screw in securely. Both rattle slightly even when screwed in as far as possible.

-Overall, this is a nice light for the money, even if it is just used as a host for a future mod.


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## yekim (Apr 23, 2008)

I have 2 that I bought from DX in two eperate orders and the first one has a great tint and great brightness, the second one has a greenish tint and is not as bright. Both had lens orings but the first one's oring was bulging out and got removed.

The Led's are slightly different as well. The first one has a silver background, the second one has a yellow background. 

I tried to mod the second one but was unable to get the star to come loose from the pill, it seems epoxied or siliconed down and will not budge without risking destruction.

UPDATE:

I managed to get the LED out of my second light. IT took some convincing with a screwdriver, but I broke the silicone (I believe) glued bond and was able to swap in the LED from my uber cheap SKU 2821, which was a flying chunk of garbage with an amazing LED. My C3 has a much nicer and brighter beam, and is even brighter than my first one. The SKU 2821 was purchased mainly to get the last bits of life out of primaries that were run down on my 2xcr123 lights so it losing some lux is no big deal. 

I have experimented some with running the P4 c3's on 2aa's, the heads fit on the bodies of my old L2T's and I can't really see much increase in brightness, there is some, but not really enough to muck up the form factor for it. 

I had originally bought the second C3 as a gift, but instead I am going to give away my Dexlight. (mainly because the Dex's PWM gives me a headache). If I can find a good driver for the C3 I might hop it up.....


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## cpf (Apr 23, 2008)

Some noob observations :

- Both the clicky pill and LED module were not screwed tightly, actually they were quite loose.

- To replace the switch cover with a GITD one I removed the switch pill and black switch cover. I noticed that the threads in the tail did not extend right to the end. I put back only the switch pill and screwed it as far as it would go. I noticed that the gap between the pill and the tail ( where the switch cover would be ) was much wider than the thickness of a single switch cover. What this means is that with only a switch cover even if you screw the switch pill as far as possible, there will still be a gap. I have put a 18mm o-ring between the switch cover and the tail. This ensures there is no gap between the switch pill and the tail.
That is, looking from the bottom of the FL I have tail, o-ring, switch cover and switch pill in that order. If I haven't made myself clear, the gap between the tail and switch pill is now filled by the switch cover _and_ a o-ring.

- The glass itself was dirty and needed cleaning. The o-ring between the lens and head is very very thin. If you aren't careful you may miss it altogether. 18mm GITD o-rings cannot really be used here. DX has 19mm black ones that may be 1mm thick, they may work. The GITD ones are 1.5mm thick I think.

- The inner edges are very sharp. I cut myself just above the nail of my forefinger when I tried to clean the inside of the head.

- Someone had mentioned that the FL does not work when the tail is screwed down tightly. I too have that problem, but only when the tail is screwed down _very_ hard.

That's it. Very happy with my FL.


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## alfreddajero (Apr 23, 2008)

I put in an order when the SS first came up on DX.....love it.......i shortened the front of the barrel so the bezel part wouldnt leave a big gap like it did when i first got it. I also smoothed out the reflector with a hard compound polisher.........the people that i have showed it too like it. I have heard that when you order late in the game that the QC of UF sucks, so im glad that i ordered mine when i did. Please click on the pics for a bigger view.


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## BigBluefish (Apr 23, 2008)

I was thinking of ordering another one from DX, but now I'm worried that it won't be the same quality as my first one, which overall, is very nice, and I'm thinking that now, I won't. On my light the head threads were a little loose, but after cleaning and lubing, and a good deal of use, this doesn't seem to be an issue. It has the silver based emitter, is very bright (brighter when compared to an RC-G2 and RC-A3, about the same level of brightness as my RC-N3 on 1 CR123a primaray). For $20 its not that big a deal, but if my next one isn't as nice, I'll be displeased. 

I thought the one I had was nice enough. in fact, to give to my Dad for Father's Day, but while looking at a couple of my lights the other day, he said he liked them, but they'd be better if they had a low level as well as a high level. Oh, well. Guess I'll have to get him an LM31 or an L1T v2.0, and keep the SS C3.


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## xihadd (Nov 23, 2008)

hi, I ordered my C3 from Dx, I also ordered a C2 Pressure Extension switch. Do you think it will fit along well with the C3?

Thanks.


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## richardcpf (Nov 23, 2008)

xihadd said:


> hi, I ordered my C3 from Dx, I also ordered a C2 Pressure Extension switch. Do you think it will fit along well with the C3?
> 
> Thanks.


 

Of course it wont fit, C2 uses 18650/123 cells, C3 uses AA cells.


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## xihadd (Nov 23, 2008)

Thanks for the info!

Do you know if there are any extensions available for the C3?


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## Nyctophiliac (Nov 24, 2008)

xihadd - I have not seen any SS extensions on the DX or KD websites. The standard black C3 extensions may work, but I think you'd spoil the look of the light. Why not get an 14500 protected cell? Or have you no wish to go into Lithium Ion batts, which is understandable. I have only recently delved into them myself.( I believe all types of this light, KD or DX do accept 14500 - check before trying!!)

My SS C3 is the 14500 only type from KD. It does not work on any type of AA, and is extremely bright and robust. I have inserted a GITD O ring at the lens and also a GITD switch cover.

The Led die has a silver surround and the beam is free of artifacts and smooth transition from spot to flood.

My main bugbear is the width of the switch cover is too great and the split ring I have on it deforms the silicon and possibly interferes with the water resistance a bit. Oh well, great light otherwise.

I've just remembered, the light engine was loose when recieved, and I had to tighten it with a screwdriver to stop intermittant operation, just fine now.


Be lucky...


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## sandos (Jul 31, 2009)

The C2 alu tube does not fit on my C3 SS, the threads are the wrong pitch, sorry.


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