# Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI - Pocket Thrower



## jak

Looks like Zebralight is adding a thrower to its inventory according to their comparison spreadsheet.
Based off of the SC600, it will have the "Cree XP-L HI" LED, and presumably a smooth reflector. 1050 Lumens of PID throw.
It will even support 2 x CR123 batteries (with limited support).

"First mk3 (limited 2CR123 support, output up to 6V LED), unprotected 18650 only"

Time for me to start saving again... $95. Pre-order August 2015, ships Feb. 2016*.

*my prediction


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## kj2

will certainly be following this light. Start to like ZL more and more. SC5 and SC32w are my weekend EDC lights.


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## twistedraven

Wonder what the throw would be like with a 1.25" smooth reflector and the xpl- hi with 1000 lumens. I'm thinking around 350m? It'd be very nice to have something that can do that that can somewhat get away with fitting in your pocket.


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## StorminMatt

Looks like Zebralight might be moving away from their traditional floody lights. I mean, the SC32 has less of an orange peel on their reflectors, the SC5 is smooth. And now we have this. Too bad, in a way. I always thought their floody lights were pretty good for many uses.


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## WarRaven

Interesting stuff.

Kind of hope it's not that far off though.


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## twistedraven

At the time of buying an SC62 series light, I didn't find much reason to get an SC600 series light. It was quite literally near the same performance but smaller.

With these new XPL-HI SC600s, maybe Zebralight is aiming to make the SC600 series more thrower based, while the SC62 and upcoming SC63 series will be more flood based.


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## Slumber

Im in for a TC600 MKIII HI-Pocket Thrower. That's right Tail Clicky. Do it Zebralight! Do it!


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## tonkem

Love new Zebralights! Bring it


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## markr6

Awwwwww sheeet! Starting off with the neutral white again. Way to go ZL 

Still a side click but I'm used to those now. Shorter than the SC600 though? Must be getting more throw from a smoot-as-glass reflector and the brighter LED.

I'm going to be all over this as usual.


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## jak

twistedraven said:


> Wonder what the throw would be like with a 1.25" smooth reflector and the xpl- hi with 1000 lumens. I'm thinking around 350m? It'd be very nice to have something that can do that that can somewhat get away with fitting in your pocket.



I'm wondering if it will match, or even out-throw, a Nitecore EA41 or EagleTac TX25C. If it does, I would be the first to pre-order. I like the size of the EagleTac, but the interface was dismal. And the Nitecore is great, but not pocket-friendly.



StorminMatt said:


> Looks like Zebralight might be moving away from their traditional floody lights. I mean, the SC32 has less of an orange peel on their reflectors, the SC5 is smooth. And now we have this. Too bad, in a way. I always thought their floody lights were pretty good for many uses.



I don't think they're moving away from floods, it seems to me they're just expanding into throw. They still have plenty of flood available.



markr6 said:


> Shorter than the SC600 though? Must be getting more throw from a smoot-as-glass reflector and the brighter LED.
> 
> I'm going to be all over this as usual.


Interesting though that it's .1" shorter. Could it be the head, or perhaps it would use the new tailcap design that's on the SC5? (Or both)

Haha, I thought you gave up on ZL with the SC5. Mine too had the purple eye, but I received a replacement that is spectacular. Additionally, it's actually a really handy light.


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## davidt1

Only if they add a side LED like the Sunwayman C22C. There is a MacGyver in me that wants things that can do multiple things.


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## Mr. Tone

Nice find


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## Mr Floppy

I was holding off on the mk2 but if this is a thrower, I will need to budget for a mk2 soon if they stop production. Perhaps the sc62 will solely be the floody version


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## gkbain

Been toying with the idea of getting a sc600 but will wait to see how this develops. Really like my ZLs.


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## BLUE LED

Aha another pocket thrower. My wallet going to get lighter.


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## holygeez03

Unprotected 18650 only? That's annoying... but at least it only takes once cell to power it...


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## BLUE LED

I will probably use a single Efest IMR 18650 3100mAh for this light.


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## Amelia

This seems like the latest attempt by Zebralight to try and become something it's not.
Small, floody, side-switch lights with brilliant UI and a nice variety of battery and emitter options to choose from. That's what Zebralight has come to mean for me. I'd rather see things like Nichia 219 emitters, better potting and sealing, and more eneloop optimized lights like the SC5... instead of Zebralight trying to be "everybody else" with tail clicky tactical throw lights.

Just my opinion.


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## StorminMatt

Amelia said:


> This seems like the latest attempt by Zebralight to try and become something it's not.
> Small, floody, side-switch lights with brilliant UI and a nice variety of battery and emitter options to choose from. That's what Zebralight has come to mean for me. I'd rather see things like Nichia 219 emitters, better potting and sealing, and more eneloop optimized lights like the SC5... instead of Zebralight trying to be "everybody else" with tail clicky tactical throw lights.
> 
> Just my opinion.



Plus, despite what anyone else says, floody lights are just more useful to most people most of the time compared to throwers. The fact is, they had a winning formula. Why rock the boat based on a hunch of what you THINK people MIGHT rather have?



holygeez03 said:


> Unprotected 18650 only? That's annoying... but at least it only takes once cell to power it...



Zebralights already have built-in overdischarge protection. No need for protected cells. Especially if using unprotected cells only will make for a smaller light.


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## UnderPar

This is interesting. Will keep a good eye on this.....


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## twistedraven

Amelia said:


> This seems like the latest attempt by Zebralight to try and become something it's not.
> Small, floody, side-switch lights with brilliant UI and a nice variety of battery and emitter options to choose from. That's what Zebralight has come to mean for me. I'd rather see things like Nichia 219 emitters, better potting and sealing, and more eneloop optimized lights like the SC5... instead of Zebralight trying to be "everybody else" with tail clicky tactical throw lights.
> 
> Just my opinion.



I think you're jumping the gun. They still have the SC63 series they've yet to release or have any details we can dig up. As I said in my previous post, I didn't find anything meaningful in the SC600 series lights that the SC62 couldn't do. It was literally nearly identical performance, but with a larger form-factor. Giving the SC600 series a focus on throw instead of flood seems like a smarter way to go, rather than just having two different series that accomplished nearly the same thing. Both having the utility of added customer choice, and the idea of having a pocketable thrower is very nice imo.

SC63 series being flood while SC600 series being throw does not mean Zebralight's losing their identity. They'll still be presumably rocking the same UI and side-clicky that ZL users adore, and they'll still be offering both warm and cold variants of their lights-- something else which ZL users adore.

Nichia options for Zebralights would be excellent, just as long as they don't get rid of the Luxeon T as a result, because the Luxeon is a special LED itself as well.


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## uofaengr

Pretty cool to hear. The quality of my SC52w is excellent and love the flood it produces in such a small package. I can't complain with a pocket thrower either. It's nice to have options.


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## Amelia

twistedraven said:


> I think you're jumping the gun. They still have the SC63 series they've yet to release or have any details we can dig up. As I said in my previous post, I didn't find anything meaningful in the SC600 series lights that the SC62 couldn't do. It was literally nearly identical performance, but with a larger form-factor. Giving the SC600 series a focus on throw instead of flood seems like a smarter way to go, rather than just having two different series that accomplished nearly the same thing. Both having the utility of added customer choice, and the idea of having a pocketable thrower is very nice imo.
> 
> SC63 series being flood while SC600 series being throw does not mean Zebralight's losing their identity. They'll still be presumably rocking the same UI and side-clicky that ZL users adore, and they'll still be offering both warm and cold variants of their lights-- something else which ZL users adore.
> 
> Nichia options for Zebralights would be excellent, just as long as they don't get rid of the Luxeon T as a result, because the Luxeon is a special LED itself as well.



Agreed. Very good points. I also hope the Luxeon T emitters stay in ZL's lineup - the SC52d and SC62d are among my favorite handheld lights, from any manufacturer. The more I use them, the more I'm liking and appreciating them!


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## Mr. Tone

Amelia said:


> Agreed. Very good points. I also hope the Luxeon T emitters stay in ZL's lineup - the SC52d and SC62d are among my favorite handheld lights, from any manufacturer. The more I use them, the more I'm liking and appreciating them!


 I am glad that you like them. I had a SC62d and the tint was a little too cool for me. I was able to tell that the CRI was better, however.


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## 18650

jak said:


> Looks like Zebralight is adding a thrower to its inventory according to their comparison spreadsheet. Based off of the SC600, it will have the "Cree XP-L HI" LED, and presumably a smooth reflector. 1050 Lumens of PID throw. It will even support 2 x CR123 batteries (with limited support). "First mk3 (limited 2CR123 support, output up to 6V LED), unprotected 18650 only" Time for me to start saving again... $95. Pre-order August 2015, ships Feb. 2016*. *my prediction


 Output up to 6V LED? What would be the point of that if they don't plan on using it to drive 6V LED's? Maybe it is a miscommunication.


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## Amelia

18650 said:


> Output up to 6V LED? What would be the point of that if they don't plan on using it to drive 6V LED's? Maybe it is a miscommunication.



MT-G2? I'd buy.


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## markr6

jak said:


> Haha, I thought you gave up on ZL with the SC5. Mine too had the purple eye, but I received a replacement that is spectacular. Additionally, it's actually a really handy light.



HAHA yeah, but after seeing Selfbuilts review on the SC5, I'm missing it! I wish I could guarantee a nice, artifact-free tint. I'd get another  This New SC63 though, I have to give it a try!



Amelia said:


> MT-G2? I'd buy.



I wish they would do something with the MT-G2. I suggested a 2x18650 but they said there were no plans to use that emitter.


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## PoliceScannerMan

I would LOVE this light in a 18350 version for the ultimate pocket thrower! This is going to be a hot seller I bet...


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## jak

markr6 said:


> HAHA yeah, but after seeing Selfbuilts review on the SC5, I'm missing it! I wish I could guarantee a nice, artifact-free tint. I'd get another  This New SC63 though, I have to give it a try!



When I sent my previous SC5 back, I used the comments/notes section kindly requesting that they physically inspect the replacement before they ship it. It paid off big time.

Where are there any details on this SC63? Or is it all speculation/rumors? 

Anyway, I'll let you know how the 600 III HI is.


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## twistedraven

https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...mVwOW9Fc0FfUDFVSHVNS1E&hl=en&authkey=CNqP6KIC


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## markr6

jak said:


> When I sent my previous SC5 back, I used the comments/notes section kindly requesting that they physically inspect the replacement before they ship it. It paid off big time.



I always do that, but they clearly have been ignoring me


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## Dan FO

All my 18650s are protected, does this mean I need to buy IMRs and why?


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## kj2

Dan FO said:


> All my 18650s are protected, does this mean I need to buy IMRs and why?



First have to know how much Amp it will pull from the battery. I expect IMR isn't necessary for this light.


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## 18650

markr6 said:


> I wish they would do something with the MT-G2. I suggested a 2x18650 but they said there were no plans to use that emitter.


 That's what I don't understand. Why does it say output up to 6V LED if they aren't going to use one unless that's a mistake and they meant input up to 6V (for 2xCR123).


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## holygeez03

If the "unprotected cells only" is true... that's annoying... ZL doesn't even sell unprotected 18650's currently. If it's in order to make the light _slightly _shorter, I don't think it's worth it to eliminate alot of cells that people already own (and potentially purchased from ZL).


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## 18650

18650 said:


> That's what I don't understand. Why does it say output up to 6V LED if they aren't going to use one unless that's a mistake and they meant input up to 6V (for 2xCR123).


 That got me thinking. If the 6V output isn't a mistake then maybe instead of the MT-G2, they're looking at the Luxeon M for a SC63d but the M also comes in 3V versions.


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## markr6

FWIW, I did run 2xCR123 in my SC62w for a brief time (under 15 seconds). We're talking over 6V here, when the the specs say: Operating Voltage Range: 2.7V - 4.2V. Not something I feel comfortable doing under normal use though!


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## holygeez03

A de-domed MT-G2 in the SC600wIII could provide great throw and nice color temp.


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## jak

Would a XP-L HI emitter with a < 1.2 inch smooth reflector make for a considerable thrower? Or would it require a TIR lens to really intensify throw?


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## twistedraven

I'm guessing around 300-350m.


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## BLUE LED

jak said:


> Would a XP-L HI emitter with a < 1.2 inch smooth reflector make for a considerable thrower? Or would it require a TIR lens to really intensify throw?



That would depend upon what you deem considerable throw to be. It's hard to guess, but i think will do around 28,000 Lux. Assuming it is driven hard enough and they have focused it correctly.


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## jak

Zebralight just changed their LED for this light from "Cree XP-L HI" to just "Cree HI." 

Is that shorthand for XP-L HI or perhaps a different LED?


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## twistedraven

Maybe the XHP HI?

http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XHP35-HI

Edit: probably not. The SC600 will only output up to 6v.


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## recDNA

BLUE LED said:


> That would depend upon what you deem considerable throw to be. It's hard to guess, but i think will do around 28,000 Lux. Assuming it is driven hard enough and they have focused it correctly.


28000 cd would be enough to please me but 1.2 inches probably uncomfortable in my pocket. I wonder what the xpl high could do in sc32 sized head?


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## BLUE LED

recDNA said:


> 28000 cd would be enough to please me but 1.2 inches probably uncomfortable in my pocket. I wonder what the xpl high could do in sc32 sized head?



Based upon the physical dimensions of the reflector and power source. I would estimate the lux to be around 16k Lux. (Dependant on how hard it is driven).


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## recDNA

That would be excellent


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## markr6

ModelMSRPBatteryLEDTypical CRINorminal CCTBeam TypeModels w/ Similar Beam ProfileModesANSI OTF Max OutputANSI OTF Low OutputBezel DiameterLengthWeightReleasedNotes(USD)AACR12318650(Kelvin)(Lumens)(hrs)(Lumens)(hrs)(Inch)(Inch)(oz)SC Series Side Clicky Flashlight
SC600w Mk III HI951Cree XHP35 HI804500spill + spotSC600 I & II
15PID0.016 mo1.23.82.3511/ 2015SC600w Mk III951Cree XHP35804500spill + spot15PID0.016 mo1.23.82.3510/ 2015SC600 Mk III951Cree XHP35705700spill + spot15PID0.016 mo1.23.82.3510/ 2015


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## jak

XHP35 & XHP35 HI - Please hurry. I wonder what kind of difference HI will make. This is a comparison I look forward to review.


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## markr6

jak said:


> XHP35 & XHP35 HI - Please hurry. I wonder what kind of difference HI will make. This is a comparison I look forward to review.



My wife is going to kill me, but I may have to buy all 3, test, and hope I can sell the other 2 I don't like as much :naughty: 

Tying up $285 in flashlights just to try...madness!


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## fnsooner

XHP35? wth? I am officially interested again.


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## snowlover91

fnsooner said:


> XHP35? wth? I am officially interested again.



Zebralight has a way of doing that.. It's almost like they put the limited info about "Cree Hi" out there to draw us in. Then when we think we know what they'll do they surprise us with an XHP35 instead. This will be quite the light.


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## fnsooner

snowlover91 said:


> Zebralight has a way of doing that.. It's almost like they put the limited info about "Cree Hi" out there to draw us in. Then when we think we know what they'll do they surprise us with an XHP35 instead. This will be quite the light.



Tell me about it. I was in a good place flashlight wise. Nothing really on my radar and the SC600 Mk III with the XP-L HI didn’t excite me much. This kind of changes that.


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## jak

Can't be too much longer, can it? 10/15 is listed for XHP35 and 11/15 for XHP35 HI. Additionally, they're doing a price drop on the Mk II SC600s.


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## markr6

jak said:


> Can't be too much longer, can it? 10/15 is listed for XHP35 and 11/15 for XHP35 HI. Additionally, they're doing a price drop on the Mk II SC600s.



It's usually hurry up and wait with ZL. Add a month to each; hopefully it's still < 2016!

Not complaining  They're going a good job!


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## sdr

Here is my recent correspondence with the good folks at Zebralight. I am awaiting an answer to my question of _*WHEN*_ the Mk III will actually be available. 



Request Details

 back to my accountSC600 MKIII?
*Status:* New*Date Opened:* 10/29/2015*Department:* Sales*Opened by:* Customer*Last Action Date:* 10/30/2015 2:19:36 PM






User/DateMessage*Customer*
10/29/2015 2:25:45 AMHI,

How soon do you expect to have the new SC600 MKIII available for purchase? I am so anxious to get my hands on one!

Cheers!

Ron



*Staff (Administrator)*
10/30/2015 9:58:59 AMPre-order starts in about one week.



*Customer*
10/30/2015 2:19:36 PMThanks for this response. Preorder, however? How does that translate to actually having one in my hands? Bottom line: How soon will the Mk III be available? Please understand, in the past, I have been involved in "pre-orders" that tied up my money and my expectations for many months. This is why I am pressing for an actual release date. How soon before these lights will start shipping? That's the question.






As you can see, Pre-order starts in "about one week." And, as I said above, I am awaiting an answer to my question that can be seen in the above correspondence. Since I had just sent it only a few moments ago I suspect that it will probably be a day or so before I get a response from Zebralight. I will keep y'all posted.


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## markr6

My god, they must hate all of us...even though we are giving them money :laughing:

Their preorders are usually posted 2 weeks before the actual availability. But of course it varies. I even ordered a light and _received _it over a week before the ETA. The status still said preorder when I had it in my hands!

We just need to give them a break, hurry up and wait, and let the anticipation stew


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## holygeez03

I would hope a company doesn't hate the people who are waiting at the gate to hand them money... A lot of companies spend big bucks trying to stir up customer correspondence via social media... this is free for ZL.


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## markr6

holygeez03 said:


> I would hope a company doesn't hate the people who are waiting at the gate to hand them money... A lot of companies spend big bucks trying to stir up customer correspondence via social media... this is free for ZL.



I know it was a joke. But I'm sure they get tired of getting the same emails over and over. In the end, it's up to them I guess; give a date and stick with it.

p.s. no matter how much info I put in my posts about trying to defuse a response I know is coming ahead of time...it still fails  ugh!!!


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## jak

Pix and pre-order available on the Zebralight website now! It says runtimes available Nov. 7 and shipping Nov. 30.

SC600w III
http://www.zebralight.com/SC600w-Mk-III-18650-XHP35-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_173.html

SC600 III
http://www.zebralight.com/SC600-Mk-III-18650-XHP35-Flashlight-Cool-White_p_174.html


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## Jobeanie123

It looks pretty good! I like that they added the fins – it's probably a wise addition with that emitter – but I don't like that they took away the more "aggressive" looking shape of the old head. This one looks more bulbous in comparison, although it is really not an issue. It seems like the head old the old one would prevent it from rolling slightly, and this one took away that shape. I also don't quite like the lack of transition between the head and the pocket clip groove, but that probably has to do with the new length. Those are_ incredibly _nitpicky first visual impressions, but overall it's an improvement! Maybe I just have to get used to this one first. 

I'm excited to get my hands on one – I hope I can fit it in the budget during preorders!


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## Flash_Lightening

Does anyone know what the pre-order price will be?


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## twistedraven

I'm dying to know how many lumens they're able to get out of it. I never liked the look of Zebralights based off pictures, but in the hand, they feel and look incredibly nice.


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## sdr

Thanks for the heads-up, jak! I had checked earlier today and there was nothing new. 

So now the eternal wait begins, since I just pulled the trigger on a cool white version. 30 days can seem like an eternity! And even _"IF"_ they actually do start shipping in 30 days, then it will be _at least_ another week or two on top of that...If I'm lucky? Oh well. They already have my money and I'm not even really sure of what it is I just purchase? I guess more will be revealed on the 7th? Time will tell, huh?

Onward and Upward!


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## fnsooner

jak said:


> Pix and pre-order available on the Zebralight website now! It says runtimes available Nov. 7 and shipping Nov. 30.
> 
> SC600w III
> http://www.zebralight.com/SC600w-Mk-III-18650-XHP35-Flashlight-Neutral-White_p_173.html
> 
> SC600 III
> http://www.zebralight.com/SC600-Mk-III-18650-XHP35-Flashlight-Cool-White_p_174.html


Pretty sexy. They don't quite give you a full look at that emitter. Family site and all.


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## fnsooner

Hope I can hold out for the HI neutral version.


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## sdr

fnsooner said:


> Hope I can hold out for the HI neutral version.



I briefly contemplated waiting for the HI version prior to ordering tonight. But opted not to wait, reasoning that I could just get both - one now and one later...when it becomes available for pre-order, also. I'm just bummed that I'll have to wait at least another month and a half just to get the Mk III. I suspect it will be January at the earliest for the HI version?


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## Jobeanie123

Flash_Lightening said:


> Does anyone know what the pre-order price will be?



It's ready to pre-order now and the price is already listed on the site as $95 – the same as the Mk IIs before their "discount."


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## Vol

65mm batteries


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## sdr

Vol said:


> 65mm batteries



Yep, flat top unprotected cells. That's what I've been using in my original SC600 and both of my Mk II's, a cool white and a neutral. And, lucky me, back in August I scored 4 more Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh Flat Top 3.7V cells from Fasttech at a ridiculously low price. When you take a look at how much Zebralight has shrunk this amazing flashlight you can appreciate the necessity for a 65 mm power source.

Check these numbers out...

SC600 Mk I -- Length: 107.8 mm
Weight: 87.2 gram

SC600 Mk II -- Length: 101.8 mm
Weight: 79.3 gram

SC600 Mk III -- Length: 96 mm
Weight: 66 gram

When I crunch those numbers I am darned impressed by how much this light has evolved. Shedding both weight and length with each new iteration. At this rate, by the time they get to a Mark VI version, the light will have almost disappeared - The palm of your hand will be a solar charged light saber...point n' click!

So, yes! 65 mm cells...Yippee Skippy!


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## markr6

I'm usually into pre-ordering, but I think I'll wait a bit this time just to be safe.


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## Vol

Is the pocket clip reversible?


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## Overclocker

sdr said:


> Yep, flat top unprotected cells. That's what I've been using in my original SC600 and both of my Mk II's, a cool white and a neutral. And, lucky me, back in August I scored 4 more Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh Flat Top 3.7V cells from Fasttech at a ridiculously low price. When you take a look at how much Zebralight has shrunk this amazing flashlight you can appreciate the necessity for a 65 mm power source.
> 
> Check these numbers out...
> 
> SC600 Mk I -- Length: 107.8 mm
> Weight: 87.2 gram
> 
> SC600 Mk II -- Length: 101.8 mm
> Weight: 79.3 gram
> 
> SC600 Mk III -- Length: 96 mm
> Weight: 66 gram
> 
> When I crunch those numbers I am darned impressed by how much this light has evolved. Shedding both weight and length with each new iteration. At this rate, by the time they get to a Mark VI version, the light will have almost disappeared - The palm of your hand will be a solar charged light saber...point n' click!
> 
> So, yes! 65 mm cells...Yippee Skippy!





the 65mm requirement is probably:

1) so people don't run into problems w/ the protection tripping

2) so no voltage drop from protection circuit (no runtime hit)

3) not have to design for the various lengths of protected cells. if the tailcap contact is anything like the sc5's then it doesn't have much travel


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## phantom23

65mm requirement means no overcharge and overdischarge protection and that means less safety.


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## markr6

phantom23 said:


> 65mm requirement means no overcharge and overdischarge protection and that means less safety.


No it's fine. I've ran cheap batteries down to about 2.79v in my SC600 II a few times to test the built-in protection of the light. It works great. As far as recharging, a good charger will get it done.

Besides, it's obvious the battery needs recharging when turning it on high and seeing it drop straight to low. Two safety measures right there. I don't need a third. The people that say "I'd rather have a 3rd instead of burning down my house" are mis-informed and probably shouldn't be using Li-Ion in the first place.


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## Vol

sdr said:


> I scored 4 more Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh Flat Top 3.7V cells



Those are 65.3mms

The 2900mAh NCR28650pf are 65.0

I'm gonna wait and see.


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## markr6

Even if there's a SC5-type "spring" on the cap, I'm betting there's at least a spring on the head end. I don't think we'll have to be worried about +/- 1mm. Just a guess.


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## fnsooner

Bringing up the high drain batteries and the double spring possibilities, makes me wonder how their spring set ups are going to handle the high amperage. Bypass wires? On both ends? The pad set up, that the SC5 uses, solves the contact surface area but what about the springs themselves? We want to know.


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## KeepingItLight

markr6 said:


> No it's fine. I've ran cheap batteries down to about 2.79v in my SC600 II a few times to test the built-in protection of the light. It works great. As far as recharging, a good charger will get it done.
> 
> Besides, it's obvious the battery needs recharging when turning it on high and seeing it drop straight to low. Two safety measures right there. I don't need a third. The people that say "I'd rather have a 3rd instead of burning down my house" are mis-informed and probably shouldn't be using Li-Ion in the first place.




You must be talking about me! :kiss: 



KeepingItLight said:


> I still choose to use protected batteries when I can. I think of it as a backup. If the driver [or cutoff circuit] in my flashlight fails, I have the battery's protection as a backup. Same for the circuits in my quality charger. If they fail, I have a backup.
> 
> It also works the other way around. If my battery protection fails, no problem. The circuits in my flashlight and charger will hopefully reduce the risk of catastrophe.
> 
> In the case of over-discharge, I have a third system. It's me! I am actually the primary protection against over-discharge. Most of my flashlights give a sign when they are running low. It's my job to notice. In case I fall asleep on the job, however, I have some backups.
> 
> Sure, backup systems are redundant. That does not stop Boeing from putting them in 747s.


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## sdr

Vol said:


> Those are 65.3mms
> 
> The 2900mAh NCR28650pf are 65.0
> 
> I'm gonna wait and see.



I would beg to differ (See Below)

Panasonic NCR18650B Rechargeable 3400mAh 3.7V 18650 Lithium Batteriesauthentic cells / 2-pack


Power & BatteriesBATTERY CAPACITY (MFG RATED)3400 mAhBATTERY CHEMISTRYLithiumBATTERY FEATURERechargeableBATTERY FORM FACTOR18650BATTERY MAXIMUM VOLTAGE4.25 VBATTERY MINIMUM VOLTAGE2.50 VBATTERY RATED VOLTAGE3.6 VManufacturerBRANDPanasonicPackagePACKAGE TYPEPlainTOTAL PIECE COUNT2Dimensionsus | metricDEPTH18.3 mmHEIGHT65.0 mmWIDTH18.3 mmPRODUCT WEIGHT46 gFastTech

That was from the actual order. Where it says "Piece Count 2" there are (2) Two batteries per "Piece." Thus 4 total. 

Please note the "Height" measurement - "65 mm"- That's also what my metric ruler says when I measure these batteries. Perhaps you are thinking of "Button Tops?"


----------



## fnsooner

We're talking one hundredth of an inch. Give or take a thousandth.


----------



## Lumbergh

When I read "i.e. 65mm long", I was hoping that ZebraLight described the typical battery length and that it wasn't meant as an "up to 65mm". At the time, the description of the 67mm long ZL634 battery they offer also said "Fits all ZebraLight 18650 flashlights or headlamps." (if you google that quote, the ZL634 product page will still be the first result).

So I wrote them an email and asked, and here's the answer I got:



> No, the SC600 Mk III supports 65mm batteries only.
> The ZL634 won't fit the SC600 Mk III.


Now, the ZL634 product page no longer claims that it will fit all ZebraLight 18650 flashlights or headlamps.

Bummer! I think I will just exploit the Mk II sale they have right now, before it's too late.


----------



## markr6

Lumbergh said:


> When I read "i.e. 65mm long", I was hoping that ZebraLight described the typical battery length and that it wasn't meant as an "up to 65mm". At the time, the description of the 67mm long ZL634 battery they offer also said "Fits all ZebraLight 18650 flashlights or headlamps." (if you google that quote, the ZL634 product page will still be the first result).
> 
> So I wrote them an email and asked, and here's the answer I got:
> 
> 
> Now, the ZL634 product page no longer claims that it will fit all ZebraLight 18650 flashlights or headlamps.
> 
> Bummer! I think I will just exploit the Mk II sale they have right now, before it's too late.



We figured that...


markr6 said:


> So they better update the ZL634 battery page soon or else they'll have some unhappy customers:
> 
> "Protected 18650 Li-ion rechargeable battery with Panasonic 3400mAh NCR18650B/BF cell. Diameter: 18.3mm. Length: 67mm. *Fits all ZebraLight 18650 flashlights or headlamps."*


----------



## holygeez03

So is Zebralight light selling batteries that won't fit their own model? Without an option for a cell that will fit?


----------



## holygeez03

Lumbergh said:


> Bummer! I think I will just exploit the Mk II sale they have right now, before it's too late.



Is a $10 discount really enough to tempt people to buy the old version? Which barely beats out the SC62 and will probably be blown away by the MKIII? Guess so...


----------



## fnsooner

Man, this is going to be a long wait. 

I wonder if the HI version will be OP or smooth?


----------



## holygeez03

I would think a light designed for throw would have a smooth reflector... unless the HI emitters create an ugly beam?


----------



## fnsooner

I would think the same and understand why but over the last couple of years, I have started disliking smooth reflectors. I would rather trade a little throw for a better looking beam. I imagine I will still buy it and still like it.


----------



## markr6

holygeez03 said:


> ... unless the HI emitters create an ugly beam?



Great beams on the two Eagletacs I had. Nice and throwy. There is a very deep blue ring when you hold them at a sharp angle against the ground or wall, but outdoors it wasn't noticeable. I think that had to do with the lens coating anyway, not the emitter.

I'm really worried I'll be close to $200 down here very soon. Must have both!!!



fnsooner said:


> I would think the same and understand why but over the last couple of years, I have started disliking smooth reflectors. I would rather trade a little throw for a better looking beam. I imagine I will still buy it and still like it.



Same here. I've purchased then sold a few for being too throwy. You really need to have a specific use for some of these (boating at night, hunting, etc)


----------



## holygeez03

I doubt the SC600w HI will be able to replace my EA4w as my compact "thrower" since I like the UI on the EA4 better on a dedicated thrower... but I will be interested to see the reviews, beamshots, etc.


----------



## Lumbergh

markr6 said:


> We figured that...



Ah, didn't read that other thread. Found this one via Google. Anyways, the battery description is now updated.


----------



## Lumbergh

holygeez03 said:


> Is a $10 discount really enough to tempt people to buy the old version? Which barely beats out the SC62 and will probably be blown away by the MKIII? Guess so...



I also wanted a headlamp (went for the H602w), and wanted them to not run out of juice too quickly, so I ordered some EagleTac 3400 mAh 18650s. Those won't do me any good if they don't fit into the flashlight, though. So I went with the Mk II instead of the Mk III, the sale was just a nice coincidence.


----------



## rjking




----------



## sidecross

SC600 Mk II L2 18650 XM-L2 Flashlight Cool White: "Battery: One 18650 size (up to 69mm long) 3.6/3.7V li-ion rechargeable."

SC600 Mk III 18650 XHP35 Flashlight Cool White: "Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. 65mm long) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable."

This is not a problem if you read the specifications. I might order the newer Mk lll in time after I read some more information, but the battery length by itself once I factor it in would not prevent me from obtaining this new light. :thumbsup:


----------



## CelticCross74

its damn near New Years where is the HI? At the most I predict 27k CD out of a mk III HI but out that small a package...come on ZL I already got the ET TX25C set up 2xCR123 and boy does the little thing have some punch.


----------



## recDNA

I've always wanted a pocketable flashlight with great throw and enough spill to be practical for trail walking etc. I'm not sure it is possible without some sort of focusing lens. 27k cd in a light this small would be spectacular!

Does the TX25C2 have XP-L HI? I had the original version and was underwhelmed.


----------



## gottawearshades

There are two versions. The TX25C HI (not TX25C2) is very pocketable and has an amazing amount of throw for a light that size. (No 18650s is my only beef with the light, although it makes up for it by running on a single123A, two 123As, or an RCR123.) And then there's the MH20VN with dedomed XML, which is a great thrower that will also charge your 18650. . . . Anyway, to on-topic point here is there are plenty of pocket-throwers out there now. I wouldn't mind having one with Zebralight's UI though. 



recDNA said:


> I've always wanted a pocketable flashlight with great throw and enough spill to be practical for trail walking etc. I'm not sure it is possible without some sort of focusing lens. 27k cd in a light this small would be spectacular!
> 
> Does the TX25C2 have XP-L HI? I had the original version and was underwhelmed.


----------



## recDNA

No question I would prefer Zebralight to Eagletac UI if it can muster some serious throw numbers. Some sort of 1.3 inch turbo headed XP-L HI Zebralight would be spectacular.

I know the TX25C2 didn't have XP-L HI when I owned one but they should put one in now.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

recDNA said:


> I've always wanted a pocketable flashlight with great throw and enough spill to be practical for trail walking etc. I'm not sure it is possible without some sort of focusing lens. 27k cd in a light this small would be spectacular!
> 
> Does the TX25C2 have XP-L HI? I had the original version and was underwhelmed.



Get TX25C2vn with XPG dedome. Its amazing.


----------



## recDNA

I try to stick to factory built when possible. I do not like increases in amps. Thanks though. I bet that throws like heck.


----------



## Nice65

SC600w MkIII arrived today. Not a single one of my 18650s fits, the NCRs are a definite no. While it irks me to have to buy more cells just for this one torch, can I ask what you guys are using?

Though ZL recommend protected, there's just no way they'll fit. The auto cut off means there's no need anyway.

A nice looking light badly let down for want of a few mm length, highly tempted to move it on and I haven't even seen the beam yet.


----------



## BLUE LED

recDNA said:


> I've always wanted a pocketable flashlight with great throw and enough spill to be practical for trail walking etc. I'm not sure it is possible without some sort of focusing lens. 27k cd in a light this small would be spectacular!
> 
> Does the TX25C2 have XP-L HI? I had the original version and was underwhelmed.



There still isn't a TX25C2 XP-L HI. You would need to mod your existing one. The problem is with focusing it for throw. I have mixed results.

1st TX25C2 XP-L HI 36k Lux
2nd TX25C2 XP-L HI 40k Lux

No prizes for guessing which one a took to the CPF meet.


----------



## BLUE LED

Have you tried IMR 18650, that should fit.


----------



## carl

Nice65 said:


> ...can I ask what you guys are using?



See post #1297 in the other thread:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...MKIII-s-and-SC63-release-for-this-year/page44


----------



## sdr

Nice65 said:


> SC600w MkIII arrived today. Not a single one of my 18650s fits, the NCRs are a definite no. While it irks me to have to buy more cells just for this one torch, can I ask what you guys are using?
> 
> Though ZL recommend protected, there's just no way they'll fit. The auto cut off means there's no need anyway.



ZebraLight DOES NOT recommend "protected" cells. In fact, they recommend quite the opposite and even included a free UNprotected NCR18650BF battery with the Mk III's that were shipped to customers who live in the United States and received one of the first batch that were shipped. The Mk III requires a true 65mm diameter cell. To my knowledge there are currently no protected cells that would meet that requirement.


----------



## KeepingItLight

Many are using an unprotected, flat-top *Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA* battery in the new *ZebraLight SC600w Mk. III*. That is a good choice because it combines high capacity with the ability to easily sustain the current draws required by the SC600 Mk. III.

Good luck!


----------



## sdr

KeepingItLight said:


> Many are using an unprotected, flat-top *Sanyo/Panasonic NCR18650GA* battery in the new *ZebraLight SC600w Mk. III*. That is a good choice because it combines high capacity with the ability to easily sustain the current draws required by the SC600 Mk. III.
> 
> Good luck!



+1 on the NCR18650GA Sanyo/Panasonic cells ~ That's what I am using in my Mk III and Mk II, also! They are rated @3500mAh and definitely fit the linear challenged Mk III.


----------



## Nice65

sdr said:


> ZebraLight DOES NOT recommend "protected" cells. In fact, they recommend quite the opposite and even included a free UNprotected NCR18650BF battery with the Mk III's that were shipped to customers who live in the United States and received one of the first batch that were shipped. The Mk III requires a true 65mm diameter cell. To my knowledge there are currently no protected cells that would meet that requirement.



Hmm, not sure where I got that from then. I'll wait for my vape cells, or maybe get some Panasonic flat tops. Everything I've got is too long, width isn't so much of a problem.


----------



## BOHAWG

Finally got my MK III[emoji106]!!!
I absolutely love it! Now I own all three of the SC600's... The 65mm length 18650 is the only cell that fits the SC600 MK III. That really isn't a big deal to me because I have a multitude of 18650's that I got from breaking old laptop battery units and taking out the 18650's.... fortunately the majority of them fit the MK III and if it fits the MK III, it'll fit every light I own.


----------



## UTV2TiVo

Just got my MK III too. Unfortunately it didn't come with a battery. I guess that was just for the pre-orders.


----------



## markr6

This is an SC600 III HI thread. Are people actually receiving these _*HI *_versions? Or getting mixed up with the standard SC600 MK III?


----------



## UTV2TiVo

Oh sorry. Yes, I am also subscribed to the original SC600 MK III thread and didn't realize this was for the HI.
I just received the cool white version.


----------



## BOHAWG

markr6 said:


> This is an SC600 III HI thread. Are people actually receiving these _*HI *_versions? Or getting mixed up with the standard SC600 MK III?


My SCIII is the HI version [emoji106]


----------



## Nice65

BOHAWG said:


> My SCIII is the HI version [emoji106]



I compared specs between the MkIII neutral I have and the MkIII HI, same specs. What is the difference?


----------



## scs

BOHAWG said:


> My SCIII is the HI version [emoji106]


 ZL is delivering ahead of schedule?


----------



## markr6

scs said:


> ZL is delivering ahead of schedule?


That's what I was wondering. Hmmm, pics or it didn't happen


----------



## sidecross

SC600 Mk III 18650 XHP35 Flashlight Cool White is "Back Ordered'

SC600w Mk III 18650 Flashlight with Neutral White High Intensity XHP35 is "Pre Order"


----------



## markr6

sidecross said:


> SC600 Mk III 18650 XHP35 Flashlight Cool White is "Back Ordered'
> 
> SC600w Mk III 18650 Flashlight with Neutral White High Intensity XHP35 is "Pre Order"



What we're wondering is did someone actually receive the HI, or was it a misunderstanding. I received my SC5w OP, a "preorder" light at the time, well in advance of the date. So the website status means nothing to me.


----------



## BOHAWG




----------



## sidecross

markr6 said:


> What we're wondering is did someone actually receive the HI, or was it a misunderstanding. I received my SC5w OP, a "preorder" light at the time, well in advance of the date. So the website status means nothing to me.


Thank you for a clarification.


----------



## markr6

BOHAWG said:


>



Cool! It doesn't say "HI" on it. But I'm not sure ZL is printing that. This just looks like the regular SC600 MK III. I wonder if there is a way to tell. I guess the packaging would tell the whole story.


----------



## light-wolff

markr6 said:


> Cool! It doesn't say "HI" on it. But I'm not sure ZL is printing that. This just looks like the regular SC600 MK III. I wonder if there is a way to tell.


Easy. Look at the LED. HI is flat, no dome.

Edit: Pictures of the LED are here:
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XHP35
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XHP35-HI


----------



## markr6

light-wolff said:


> Easy. Look at the LED. HI is flat, no dome.



Good call. Maybe BOHAWG can confirm, or even provide a photo.


----------



## snowlover91

Curious as well if he received the HI version.. If so please post pics of the LED and beam shots!


----------



## MarkF786

I wonder what the max beam distance will be on this light. Any ideas?


----------



## LGT

My AW and eagletac 18650's are to big. ZL says 65mm battery. Couldn't find any through my search. So what 18650 are you using to power this light?


----------



## BOHAWG

LGT said:


> My AW and eagletac 18650's are to big. ZL says 65mm battery. Couldn't find any through my search. So what 18650 are you using to power this light?


I've been using 18650's that I scavenged from obsolete laptop battery pods..... also Zebralight has the 65mm 18650's for sale on their site..... $7.99 each....


----------



## sdr

LGT said:


> My AW and eagletac 18650's are to big. ZL says 65mm battery. Couldn't find any through my search. So what 18650 are you using to power this light?



This is what I use: *Sanyo NCR18650GA 3.6V "3500mAh" Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery**

*And this is where I get 'em: *http://tinyurl.com/FastTech-Batteries

*Any questions?


----------



## LGT

BOHAWG said:


> I've been using 18650's that I scavenged from obsolete laptop battery pods..... also Zebralight has the 65mm 18650's for sale on their site..... $7.99 each....


Thank you very much. Just ordered a couple.


----------



## UTV2TiVo

I only had 1 flat-top unprotected 18650 but it fit perfectly.
Got it at IMRbatteries.com: *AWT 18650 3000mAh 35A Flat Top Battery*


----------



## chillinn

I will be adopting a new Zebralight in a couple days, perhaps two. But I just discovered the SC5 line is on backorder. Again. :/ Uncool. That should not happen once, let alone twice, with a new product line.

And I started to look at the pics and specs for the SC600 series. 
I like the shape. I love the runtimes.
I don't understand the large lumen spacing between M and H modes.
I'm not a clip guy, but I do appreciate clip style on all their other models. What's up with this clip?


----------



## markr6

chillinn said:


> I will be adopting a new Zebralight in a couple days, perhaps two. But I just discovered the SC5 line is on backorder. Again. :/ Uncool. That should not happen once, let alone twice, with a new product line.
> 
> And I started to look at the pics and specs for the SC600 series.
> I like the shape. I love the runtimes.
> I don't understand the large lumen spacing between M and H modes.
> I'm not a clip guy, but I do appreciate clip style on all their other models. What's up with this clip?



At one point, maybe 18months+ ago, just about everything on their site was backordered. And it was that way for like a year straight! They really improved this, but there's still some slowdown with new models coming out (MK IIIs taking the production away from old/future efforts)

The lumen spacing on paper seems bad, but once you use it you realize they're appropriate, and much close than you would think.

I don't understand the screw-on vs. snap-on clip either. The screw-on style is closer to a deep carry and would like to see that on the SC600 as well.


----------



## Alex1234

i like it but not sure i would call it a thrower even with the hi led. the small op reflector will still give a relatively floody beam. that said a slight bump in throw will be noticable. i might get this


----------



## eraursls1984

Alex1234 said:


> i like it but not sure i would call it a thrower even with the hi led. the small op reflector will still give a relatively floody beam. that said a slight bump in throw will be noticable. i might get this


This size is already pushing it for Pocket carry as is. I wouldn't call anything with a larger reflector a "pocket" thrower.


----------



## BOHAWG

It's definitely not a pocket thrower.... it's bright and floody, but wonderful


----------



## fnsooner

I went out last night to check out my SC600w HI again. 

The other night I went out and was just shining it around in the dark and judging the distance by what golf club and swing I would use. It was dark and I am not great at judging distance to begin with, so it was real rough. I guestimated 90 yards. Not very scientific.

Last night wasn’t a whole lot more scientific but I walked towards where I knew a tall tree was and when I could get a good look at it, I started counting my steps. I counted 135 steps to the tree, so about 135 yards, give or take. I would at least call this more accurate than my first estimate.


----------



## recDNA

I agree with chillin about the space between H and M being far too great. If I could choose only 3 modes for direct access I would use H1, H2, and M1. I have no use for lower modes. As it is too many clicks are required to get to the modes I use most, H1 and H2.

To be honest I think the space between H1 and H2 is also too great.

This is why I always end up returning to a rotary interface. I prefer Zebralight form and quick access to modes I just wish I could CHOOSE the output of each and preset it myself.

Most lights that do require clicking through every mode which I hate. I want to pick my own modes for instant access ala the ZL ui.


----------



## Tachead

recDNA said:


> I agree with chillin about the space between H and M being far too great. If I could choose only 3 modes for direct access I would use H1, H2, and M1. I have no use for lower modes. As it is too many clicks are required to get to the modes I use most, H1 and H2.
> 
> To be honest I think the space between H1 and H2 is also too great.
> 
> This is why I always end up returning to a rotary interface. I prefer Zebralight form and quick access to modes I just wish I could CHOOSE the output of each and preset it myself.
> 
> Most lights that do require clicking through every mode which I hate. I want to pick my own modes for instant access ala the ZL ui.



I agree. you shouldnt be stuck with fixed H1, M1, L1 modes either. They should be programmable like the other modes.


----------



## markr6

That would be great. I would program H2a and H2b on several of mine so I'm not tempted to drain the battery on H1!

*SC600w III HI update!!*

_2/18/2016 'Programmable PID thermal regulation temperature target' released to the public

_I'm confused. They way they write it on the product page makes it sound like it was always programmable?

"Programmable PID thermal regulation temperature target value (existed in all lights with the PID thermal regulation feature since late 2012)"


----------



## eraursls1984

recDNA said:


> I agree with chillin about the space between H and M being far too great. If I could choose only 3 modes for direct access I would use H1, H2, and M1. I have no use for lower modes. As it is too many clicks are required to get to the modes I use most, H1 and H2.
> 
> To be honest I think the space between H1 and H2 is also too great.
> 
> This is why I always end up returning to a rotary interface. I prefer Zebralight form and quick access to modes I just wish I could CHOOSE the output of each and preset it myself.
> 
> Most lights that do require clicking through every mode which I hate. I want to pick my own modes for instant access ala the ZL ui.


I think the lowest high mode should be a medium setting. 

I really wish there was bluetooth where we could select whatever mode we wanted for each setting. Even if only the current modes were available (if they optimized for efficiency). Also the ability to have more than two modes per set would be nice. 

There are a lot of nice UI's, but I think Zebralights is the closest to perfect. Rotary is a close second. Rotary UI's biggest detractor is the size of all the rotary lights. The new Olight S1 UI is also very close to perfect with moonlight and max available from off, as well as a memorized low, medium, or high. I it wasn't for the limitations of the Zebralight UI it would be far and away better than these other options for EDC size lights IMO.


----------



## Tachead

markr6 said:


> That would be great. I would program H2a and H2b on several of mine so I'm not tempted to drain the battery on H1!
> 
> *SC600w III HI update!!*
> 
> _2/18/2016 'Programmable PID thermal regulation temperature target' released to the public
> 
> 
> _I'm confused. They way they write it on the product page makes it sound like it was always programmable?
> 
> "Programmable PID thermal regulation temperature target value (existed in all lights with the PID thermal regulation feature since late 2012)"



I think they have been reading our posts lol because we were just talking about that(I suggested it would be a good idea). How do you adjust it though? I am excited if this is true.


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> I think they have been reading our posts lol bevause we were just talking about that(I suggested it would be a good idea). How do you adjust it though?



Not to be confused with programming the modes, though. Is that what you were thinking? Or the PID which steps down the output due to heat? Sorry, I think we were talking about both recently so I'm just checking. 

Originally the PID had to be programmed by Zebralight. Now it sounds like the customer can? Not sure.

Turn light on H1. Double-click 28 times, then pause, then turn light off. Turn light back on H1 then click "x" number of times to set the PID max temp (i.e. 60 clicks = 60°C)

Just kidding


----------



## Tachead

markr6 said:


> Not to be confused with programming the modes, though. Is that what you were thinking? Or the PID which steps down the output due to heat? Sorry, I think we were talking about both recently so I'm just checking.
> 
> Originally the PID had to be programmed by Zebralight. Now it sounds like the customer can? Not sure.
> 
> Turn light on H1. Double-click 28 times, then pause, then turn light off. Turn light back on H1 then click "x" number of times to set the PID max temp (i.e. 60 clicks = 60°C)
> 
> Just kidding



Yeah, I meant to set the temp the PID kicks in so you can control the max temp the light gets to. I sure hope this is what ZL meant. Now we just need to know how to do it. The way you joked about would be fine with me as its not something one would need to do often. I would like to set it so the head of my H600Fd/c MKIII never gets hotter then 45C myself.


----------



## Tachead

Here is the procedure to adjust the PID from ZL's site...



PID Thermal Regulation Temperature Programming

Turn off the light from H1 and then turn back on to H1

Press and hold to cycle from Low to High 6 times

On the 7th (or more) cycle, release the switch

when High to add 1 degree C (up to 5 max)

when Med to revert back to the factory default

when Low to subtract 1 degree C (up to 5 max) 


 [h=3][/h]


----------



## Tachead

I just emailed ZL to see if this procedure will work on my H600Fd/c MKIII as well. I hope so.


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> Here is the procedure to adjust the PID from ZL's site...
> 
> 
> 
> PID Thermal Regulation Temperature Programming
> Turn off the light from H1 and then turn back on to H1
> Press and hold to cycle from Low to High 6 times
> On the 7th (or more) cycle, release the switch
> when High to add 1 degree C (up to 5 max)
> when Med to revert back to the factory default
> when Low to subtract 1 degree C (up to 5 max)



Nice! Thank you! Tried it on my SC63w and adding 1° seemed to kick PID in after 14 seconds, compared to the 10 seconds originally. Well, maybe not. It seems the same now that I tried it again. Maybe I did it wrong. I wish it flashed or something after programming to confirm.


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> I just emailed ZL to see if this procedure will work on my H600Fd/c MKIII as well. I hope so.



Yes, I think they meant anything after late-2012.



markr6 said:


> "Programmable PID thermal regulation temperature target value (existed in all lights with the PID thermal regulation feature since late 2012)"


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> I think they have been reading our posts lol because we were just talking about that(I suggested it would be a good idea). How do you adjust it though? I am excited if this is true.



Yes, I'm even more convinced now. So...

HELLO ZEBRALIGHT!! :wave:


----------



## waxing twilight

Wow, that is great! I wonder why never disclosed that adjustment before? That is a really nice feature.


----------



## snowlover91

Now all we need is a fully programmable UI...


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Now all we need is a fully programmable UI...



Yes!

*SC63d*
5000K, 90+ CRI
Programmable UI
Programmable PID

Done buying flashlights.


----------



## Tachead

Just got confirmation from ZL. This adjustment is available on all ZL models since late 2012. I am really glad they allowed us access to this. They also said this is one of "many" hidden UI's. I hope they release more for us techies. Thanks Zebralight:thumbsup:


----------



## eraursls1984

markr6 said:


> Yes!
> 
> *SC63d*
> 5000K, 90+ CRI
> Programmable UI
> Programmable PID
> 
> Done buying flashlights.


Not quite, but close. Done buying anything but Zebralights and customs.


----------



## Tachead

markr6 said:


> Yes!
> 
> *SC63d*
> 5000K, 90+ CRI
> Programmable UI
> Programmable PID
> 
> Done buying flashlights.




Except other ZL models


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> Yes!
> 
> *SC63d*
> 5000K, 90+ CRI
> Programmable UI
> Programmable PID
> 
> Done buying flashlights.



Sign me up for two of those lol. At least it is good ZL seems to be going more of the custom route allowing users to make small changes to things like the PID and limited mode customization. Now just let us have full mode customization and then 90+ CRI emitters in 4K and 5k tint and we will be set! I wonder if they have any other goodies hidden in the UI we don't know about yet...


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> Just got confirmation from ZL. This adjustment is available on all ZL models since late 2012. I am really glad they allowed us access to this. They also said this is one of "many" hidden UI's. I hope they release more for us techies. Thanks Zebralight:thumbsup:



Woah awesome news! I wonder if they read the forums here then because it sounds like they've been listening to us, with a new 93-95cri light this summer coming out and now this PID customization. I wish I knew what others they had hidden


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> I wonder if they have any other goodies hidden in the UI we don't know about yet...



I know! I'll start playing around. There can't be more than 2,567,292 combinations!


----------



## snowlover91

markr6 said:


> I know! I'll start playing around. There can't be more than 2,567,292 combinations!




I can can see it now... All CPF ZL owners clicking randomly to try to find another hidden mode!


----------



## markr6

Oh no I forgot. The switch is only rated to 200,000 cycles!


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> I can can see it now... All CPF ZL owners clicking randomly to try to find another hidden mode!



lol, I just emailed them to thank them for access to this and said that us techies would really appreciate any other programming they could offer. The more the better I say. You dont have to use it but, it sure is nice to have access.


----------



## sdr

I'm still waiting, hoping to see a throw comparison between the regular Mk III and the Mk III HI. Anyone.....Bueller?


----------



## markr6

Tachead said:


> lol, I just emailed them to thank them for access to this and said that us techies would really appreciate any other programming they could offer. The more the better I say. You dont have to use it but, it sure is nice to have access.



Thanks for checking...it could be there and they just didn't want to include instructions since so many people would be frustrated when they couldn't figure it out. I think right now some people already complain about having to read instructions to use a flashlight. Of course, NOT ANY OF US!  Like you said, better to have it and not use it unless you want to.

BTW, I'm not noticing a difference in PID after programming. Still trying...

After adding 2°, I'm now seeing PID kick in at 18 seconds, compared to the 12-15seconds from factory. But it could be due to the starting temperature. I am trying to let it cool back down though. This is for the SC63w. Off topic for this thread, but it just got a lot of momentum so I went with it here.


----------



## Tachead

markr6 said:


> Thanks for checking...it could be there and they just didn't want to include instructions since so many people would be frustrated when they couldn't figure it out. I think right now some people already complain about having to read instructions to use a flashlight. Of course, NOT ANY OF US!  Like you said, better to have it and not use it unless you want to.
> 
> BTW, I'm not noticing a difference in PID after programming. Still trying...




No problem. 

Keep trying and make sure you do the sequence exactly how it says. I set my H600Fd MKIII to its lowest setting and the head only gets to 38-39C now after 5 minutes or so of constant on in H1. I havent tested much yet but when I first got it I quickly checked it and it was up to 43C+ after a couple of minutes. So it appears to work.


----------



## markr6

I don't have a way to measure temp, but is my thinking correct that the stepdown will start sooner/later depending on the setting? If I add the full 5°, it shouldn't start stepping down until maybe 30 seconds compared to the factory ~14 seconds. (just making up numbers)

OK, up to 23 seconds now. I think I've added 3° so far...I'm losing track!


----------



## fnsooner

sdr said:


> I'm still waiting, hoping to see a throw comparison between the regular Mk III and the Mk III HI. Anyone.....Bueller?



I have only seen a couple of off the cuff remarks that the HI doesn't throw significantly more than the regular. Both cases though were the neutral HI versus the cool white regular. I want to see neutral vs neutral.


----------



## Tachead

markr6 said:


> I don't have a way to measure temp, *but is my thinking correct that the stepdown will start sooner/later depending on the setting? *If I add the full 5°, it shouldn't start stepping down until maybe 30 seconds compared to the factory ~14 seconds. (just making up numbers)
> 
> OK, up to 23 seconds now. I think I've added 3° so far...I'm losing track!



Yep, it is a temperature target setting so it will kick in at a lower temp when lowered and, never let it get over the set temp in theory. Which means it will lower the time until the PID kicks in because of that (but thats not a very accurate way to test it because the time it takes will depend on the starting temp). So, if you set it lower the flashlight will run cooler on H1 and H2 in a worst case scenario(high ambient temp) but, it will also reduce output to achieve this so it wont be as bright.


----------



## fnsooner

Am I the only one that is happy with the default settings of their Zebralights.


----------



## markr6

fnsooner said:


> Am I the only one that is happy with the default settings of their Zebralights.



After messing around with this, I reset mine back to the factory. I'm happy with it. But I do like this option to reprogram. I always thought the *SC62w *got way too hot, too fast.


----------



## Tachead

fnsooner said:


> Am I the only one that is happy with the default settings of their Zebralights.



That's fine, then leave it how it is. Some of us like the adjustability though so its nice to have the option. I like this particular adjustment because my headlamp can get to 54C on the head which is too hot imo. Now I can lower it if I want.


----------



## Tachead

ZL added this...

[FONT=&quot]
Subject: PID Thermal Regulation Programming

Just want to add that, in anticipation of today's announcement, we lowered the factory default temp setting by several degree C in some lights produced in recent months. 

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.

[/FONT]


----------



## markr6

^ That sounds like my SC63w. Like I said before, I always thought the SC6*2*w got WAY too hot.


----------



## fnsooner

Tachead said:


> ZL added this...
> 
> 
> Subject: PID Thermal Regulation Programming
> 
> Just want to add that, in anticipation of today's announcement, we lowered the factory default temp setting by several degree C in some lights produced in recent months.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> ZebraLight, Inc.


I can definitely tell the difference between the SC62w and the SC63w. The 62 is warmer. After making that remark about being happy with the default settings, I now want to make my 63 like my 62 so far as temp is concerned.:ironic:


----------



## gunga

Me too. I might have to try adjusting it on my sc62w.


----------



## markr6

I'm glad they released this information. They probably said "those guys are going to ***** about us no matter what, we might as well let them have a go at it"


----------



## recDNA

Will this work on my 32w as well? It gets way too hot with primaries. I did buy it after 2012 but I do not know when it was built.

I get how to make ONE degree lower. How do I get full 5 degrees lower? Repeat entire procedure 5 times or what?


----------



## Tachead

recDNA said:


> Will this work on my 32w as well? It gets way too hot with primaries. I did buy it after 2012 but I do not know when it was built.
> 
> I get how to make ONE degree lower. How do I get full 5 degrees lower? Repeat entire procedure 5 times or what?




Yes


----------



## Tachead

Zebralight added this too just to let you guys know...

[FONT=&quot]Subject: PID Thermal Regulation Programming

There won't be any issues with the emitter or any other electronic components in the light because ALL of them are rated at 85C or higher. We set the limit of 5 degree C max so that even with our highest factory default settings (52C), you'll still be below the working temp range of a li-ion battery (typically 60C in 2012 when the S6330 was designed). 

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.

They are awesome, great communication:twothumbs
[/FONT]


----------



## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> Zebralight added this too just to let you guys know...
> 
> Subject: PID Thermal Regulation Programming
> 
> There won't be any issues with the emitter or any other electronic components in the light because ALL of them are rated at 85C or higher. We set the limit of 5 degree C max so that even with our highest factory default settings (52C), you'll still be below the working temp range of a li-ion battery (typically 60C in 2012 when the S6330 was designed).
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> ZebraLight, Inc.
> 
> They are awesome, great communication:twothumbs



Great info thanks :thumbsup: Now I'm just curious what other hidden features they have yet to announce... I definitely noticed my SC63w stayed cooler and PID kicked in sooner than it did on my SC62w. It's nice to know I can change my SC62w cooler if need be or make my SC63w stay on turbo longer.


----------



## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> Great info thanks :thumbsup: Now I'm just curious what other hidden features they have yet to announce... I definitely noticed my SC63w stayed cooler and PID kicked in sooner than it did on my SC62w. It's nice to know I can change my SC62w cooler if need be or make my SC63w stay on turbo longer.



No problem. Me too, hopefully they allow us access to even more features.


----------



## waxing twilight

fnsooner said:


> I have only seen a couple of off the cuff remarks that the HI doesn't throw significantly more than the regular. Both cases though were the neutral HI versus the cool white regular. I want to see neutral vs neutral.



+1


----------



## waxing twilight

snowlover91 said:


> Great info thanks :thumbsup: Now I'm just curious what other hidden features they have yet to announce...



+1!


----------



## CelticCross74

just thought Id mention that I ordered the MkIII HI 5 days ago. I just inquired about when delivery will happen their answer: 3-16 days. Oooookay I can wait but I also inquired about it the day after I ordered it and they said 3-5 days. I now realistically expect the light(and the flat top Sanyo for it) to show up in mid April. No biggie I still got the MkII to carry around for some awesome short range flood...


----------



## Insulator Collector

This is my first post to this forum outside the "Introductions" category. I have some questions about the SC600w Mk III, so I hope I'm asking in the appropriate thread.

I too have just discovered the SC600w Mk III is on backorder (rats). While I wait, I was wondering if anyone could recommend a specific unprotected flat top battery (brand) for this particular light?

I also see this light offered in a "high intensity" version, which (after reading this thread) I understand has increased throw and a tighter more focused central beam. I suppose it ultimately comes down to preference. But I am curious to hear what others have to say about the relative advantages or disadvantages of the high-intensity version over the "regular" version.

Thanks in advance for any of your Zebralight battery recommendations and other advice. I have other more general questions about batteries and chargers that I will post in the appropriate forum.


----------



## snowlover91

For battery the 18650ga with red wrapper, like the one sold on Zebralights website, is a good battery with great capacity and 10amps continuous draw. More than enough to handle the demands of this light. As far as the HI version if you want a little extra throw I would go with that one, however if you prefer a slightly floodier beam the regular MK3 should do. Also the HI version only comes in neutral white whereas the other version in cool white and neutral. I decided to go with the MK3 HI version since I have the SC62w and 63w lights and wanted more distinction between the floody beam they offer and the increased throw of the HI version.


----------



## jak

Got a shipping notice for this light today. Unfortunately I don't have a non-HI version to compare it to. I will, however, compare it against my SC63w. At this point, the HI will have to _really_ outshine my 63 if it wants to earn its keep. We'll see how much of a difference a HI LED and reflector make...


----------



## recDNA

We need one person with meter who uses the same protocol to check cd of every version. I doubt the HI version adds much throw.


----------



## snowlover91

jak said:


> Got a shipping notice for this light today. Unfortunately I don't have a non-HI version to compare it to. I will, however, compare it against my SC63w. At this point, the HI will have to _really_ outshine my 63 if it wants to earn its keep. We'll see how much of a difference a HI LED and reflector make...




I have the HI and SC63w and the difference in throw is pretty significant. The hotspot is much smaller on the MK3 HI and throw is far better. Judging by other lights I have I would estimate around 16,000cd from the Hi version.


----------



## Uxorious

Please refer to my post here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...or-this-year&p=4854974&viewfull=1#post4854974
From my measurement, SC600w mk III HI is about 17000cd, so your estimation might be very close. 



snowlover91 said:


> I have the HI and SC63w and the difference in throw is pretty significant. The hotspot is much smaller on the MK3 HI and throw is far better. Judging by other lights I have I would estimate around 16,000cd from the Hi version.


----------



## Insulator Collector

jak said:


> Got a shipping notice for this light today. ...



Alas, I noticed yesterday (March 6) on the ZL site that all of the SC600w Mk III models are on backorder. I inquired how long, and here is what they said: "[FONT=wf_segoe-ui_normal]Lead time for the SC600w is about 4 weeks IF you place your order now." Needless to say, I placed my order immediately. Looks like I have a month of anticipation [/FONT]:shakehead


----------



## newbie66

A dealer nearby has the HI in stock. I am gonna just pull the trigger. Need another Zebra fast.


----------



## akhyar

newbie66 said:


> A dealer nearby has the HI in stock. I am gonna just pull the trigger. Need another Zebra fast.



Mine sharing, here or through PM, which dealer is it?

P/s: Nevermind,
Saw the post at his webstore 
Just sold my Jetbeam C8 to my BIL, which coincidentally was bought from the same dealer


----------



## newbie66

akhyar said:


> Mine sharing, here or through PM, which dealer is it?
> 
> P/s: Nevermind,
> Saw the post at his webstore
> Just sold my Jetbeam C8 to my BIL, which coincidentally was bought from the same dealer



Good for you. I just ordered mine from fstoplights several minutes ago.


----------



## jondextan

So, for a flaslight newb who's looking for his first light and is considering the MkIII, is the HI the recommended choice among the three available? (Regardless of purpose, i plan to get an fl for each need i have  )


----------



## ro.ma.

It came from the Nkon shop the sc600w III HI but to my amazement is the same LED as the normal version.
I would be happy to see some photos of the HI LED sc600w.
It should be no dome?


----------



## sdr

The SC600w Mk III HI is currently showing "In Stock" on Zebralight's website - March 18


----------



## ro.ma.

The inscription on the torch is different from the version hi?


----------



## markr6

sdr said:


> The SC600w Mk III HI is currently showing "In Stock" on Zebralight's website - March 18



I purchased one this morning and it just shipped!


----------



## sdr

I'm still on the fence because, to date, I have yet to see any head to head comparisons between this High Intensity version and the regular SC600 Mk III. Since I already have the Mk III I can't really justify buying the HI other than just to say I have it. If someone can show me some side by side comp shots that prove convincingly that the HI significantly out throws a reg. Mk III then I think I'll just keep my cash in my pocket.


----------



## sidecross

sdr said:


> I'm still on the fence because, to date, I have yet to see any head to head comparisons between this High Intensity version and the regular SC600 Mk III. Since I already have the Mk III I can't really justify buying the HI other than just to say I have it. If someone can show me some side by side comp shots that prove convincingly that the HI significantly out throws a reg. Mk III then I think I'll just keep my cash in my pocket.


I am in the same boat as you are. The only advantage of the 'SC 600 Mk lll Hi' would be in throw, and if I need a light for that reason I would use a larger head light specifically designed for the purpose of throw.


----------



## markr6

The SC600III was just another basic light for me. I sold it and was satisfied with the SC63w. But the extra throw with the SC600 HI is just a bonus. Don't look at it as a thrower; like sidecross mentioned you want a dedicated light for that. The SC600 HI provides a little extra oomph without being a laserpointer thrower. Still a nice general light but with a stronger hotspot. I'm really looking forward to it. And when the floodier SC600Fd Plus comes out, that will be once nice pair leaving the standard SC600III out of the game.


----------



## sdr

Of course. And, yes, I already have my "dedicated thrower" in a v. 2.5 Predator Pro. But *IF* the HI Mk III was in any way significantly better than the regular Mk III that I already have, then, I would be interested. So far no one has been able to provide any evidence that would support that proposition for me. I'm a numbers guy and less lumens has me somewhat leary. That's where I'm coming from.

And this from ZL's own description of the HI raises more questions than it answers: 

Beam Type

80 degree spill
? degree hot spot


----------



## Tachead

Vinh put a XHP35 HI in the SC600 before the HI was available and said it had a bit more throw but, noticeably less lumens. He also said it was not a worthy upgrade. So, other then a subjectively better tint(with possible less tint shift) and a bit more throw(slightly tighter hotspot) at the expense of lumen output, it is not a big upgrade from the regular SC600w.


----------



## sidecross

Tachead said:


> Vinh put a XHP35 HI in the SC600 before the HI was available and said it had a bit more throw but, noticeably less lumens. He also said it was not a worthy upgrade. So, other then a subjectively better tint(with possible less tint shift) and a bit more throw(slightly tighter hotspot) at the expense of lumen output, it is not a big upgrade from the regular SC600w.


A good point and according to ZebraLight's own specification the SC600 Mklll Hi has a lower output.

There is none the less room for this light if it fills some peoples needs.


----------



## david57strat

Has anyone here, who already owns the SC600w Mk III, also purchased the newer SC600w Mk III *Hi *version? I now have the SC600w Mk III, but haven't yet seen or read much about the new Mk III Hi version, nor am I sure there would be a huge benefit in actually buying one, if I already have the original Mk III version. I'm thinking the only benefit might be somewhat better range; but in a light with such a small, shallow reflector, I'm wondering if the benefit would be appreciable.

Any thoughts?


----------



## scs

I guess if I were considering the HI model, I'd be concerned whether it ends up in limbo: not an ideal mini thrower, not an ideal flooder, and not even an ideal all-arounder...


----------



## recDNA

We hear the HI throws about 17k cd. How about the MKIII cool white? I bet it is pretty close.


----------



## snowlover91

The way I see it is if you already have the MK3 neutral then you probably don't need the HI version. However if you haven't purchased either one and are considering it then I would go with the HI version. Mine has excellent tint and the extra throw is nice. I believe someone that had both models posted how the reflector was modified slightly on the HI version but I can't verify since I do not have the Mk3 to examine. For me the HI works great as an around the house, outdoors light and the sustained output in turbo mode along with the great tint make it a superb light, imo. The only drawback for me is the MK3 series has the pop on clip rather than the screw on and the little raised area near the tailcap prevents me from putting the pocket clip exactly opposite of the switch.


----------



## Tachead

recDNA said:


> We hear the HI throws about 17k cd. How about the MKIII cool white? I bet it is pretty close.



A better comparison would be the SC600w MKIII as the HI is only available in NW, not cool white.


----------



## markr6

Not really on the same level, but a comparison showing the little SC600 can keep up. I also compared to my SC600w II, but it was really blurry and not a good representation. I need to try a longer distance. This is only 50' or so.

T25C2 HI







SC600w III HI


----------



## sdr

Mark,

I think all your comparison did was sell me an Eagletac!

Can't anyone show me some shots comparing the SC600 Mk III to the Mk III HI? Preferably a cool white of the regular Mk III to the HI's neutral. But I'll take a warm to a warm. Anyone?

I have been begging to see that comparison for weeks now and, to date, nothing!

Thanks for the pics, anyway, Mark.


----------



## markr6

sdr said:


> Mark,
> 
> I think all your comparison did was sell me an Eagletac!



HAHA! Yes, buy that one too. It's great...but a lot longer, wider and heavier. I didn't know what else to compare it to in my collection. I was just showing the decent throw of the SC600 HI vs. a true thrower with an XP-L HI and much deeper, smooth, reflector. The SC600HI made my SC600w II look like a mule!

I wish I still had my MKIII for comparison, but I sold it and don't plan on ever buying one again.


----------



## newbie66

Just got my ZL HI today! I am so far loving it. Nice tint, beam, size, shape and of course the amazing ui. 

1st time posting pics comparing my SC5 and HI with my crappy cellphone camera(Lenovo P780) and crappy skills.




The cells I use in my lights(Fujitsu NIMH and the Sanyo NCR18650GA)









The AR coating on both is different. The HI purplish and SC5(CW) greenish.





Orange peel seems more aggressive on SC5.


----------



## jetslipper

newbie66 said:


> Orange peel seems more aggressive on SC5.



Is the beamshot on the left the SC600w HI? Looks almost orange or something.


----------



## markr6

jetslipper said:


> Is the beamshot on the left the SC600w HI? Looks almost orange or something.



The camera isn't going to adjust to each beam individually in the same shot...just not possible. It is showing a difference, but I'm sure in person it is not like this. Newbie would have to confirm. My SC5w is whiter than my SC600 HI, but both are nice tints.


----------



## newbie66

Nope, not orange but more yellow(if my eyes tell me accurately). My camera is crappy.


HI left, SureFire G2X Pro(320 lumens model) right.






HI left, Mini Maglite incan right






IKEA floor lamp with 2700k LED bulb(left), HI right. This pic is closest to resembling the HI's tint.


----------



## markr6

Nice variety of shots, thanks! This HI is one of my favorites...a definite keeper even for me.


----------



## tops2

@newbie66: Thanks for taking the time to do the beam shots! Just curious what level is the light on in your beamshots? Especially the one comparing with your SC5? I'm most curious about that one since I have a SC5w.


----------



## newbie66

markr6 said:


> Nice variety of shots, thanks! This HI is one of my favorites...a definite keeper even for me.



No problem! It is also one of my favorites now!


----------



## recDNA

sdr said:


> Mark,
> 
> I think all your comparison did was sell me an Eagletac!
> 
> Can't anyone show me some shots comparing the SC600 Mk III to the Mk III HI? Preferably a cool white of the regular Mk III to the HI's neutral. But I'll take a warm to a warm. Anyone?
> 
> I have been begging to see that comparison for weeks now and, to date, nothing!
> 
> Thanks for the pics, anyway, Mark.


LOL. I want a T25C2 now! I already sold mine though. Couldn't find the button fast enough in the dark. No such problem with ZL.


----------



## newbie66

tops2 said:


> @newbie66: Thanks for taking the time to do the beam shots! Just curious what level is the light on in your beamshots? Especially the one comparing with your SC5? I'm most curious about that one since I have a SC5w.




You are welcome. 
I used M2 10lumens.


----------



## markr6

recDNA said:


> LOL. I want a T25C2 now! I already sold mine though. Couldn't find the button fast enough in the dark. No such problem with ZL.



The T25C2 HI has a tail switch, so I'm pretty sure you're thinking of the TX25C2?


----------



## jonnyfgroove

So I ordered one of these without realizing it can only used unprotected cells. I put one of the protected ZL 18650s in the cart when I made the purchase. When I realized my mistake, I contacted ZL and asked to change the order around so I could get two of the unprotected cells and cancel the order on the protected cell. They responded very promptly and told me not to worry about it, they would put two of the unprotected cells in my order instead of the one I ordered and that they would cover the $2 difference. Very cool stuff! I know this is slightly off topic, hope you guys don't mind.


----------



## KeepingItLight

^^^ Cheers for ZL!


----------



## recDNA

markr6 said:


> The T25C2 HI has a tail switch, so I'm pretty sure you're thinking of the TX25C2?


You're right! I assumed the tx25c2 because the throw was so much better than the mk3 HI. It's too bad because the mk3 HI looked exciting but at 50' it had no hotspot at all. 

I really should get the tx25C because it is small enough to carry and has excellent throw. I have too many pocket flooders. Sometimes I need more distance


----------



## newbie66

Cheers to ZL!


----------



## sdr

newbie66 said:


> Cheers to ZL!



+1


----------



## vadimax

I am sorry, but why ZL made so huge gap in lumens from M1 to H1? Some models have more than 10 times leap.


----------



## jondextan

Does the tint differ between the HI and the w models?


----------



## newbie66

jondextan said:


> Does the tint differ between the HI and the w models?



According to previous reports, it seems it does. It has more green and less tint consistency I think.


----------



## newbie66

vadimax said:


> I am sorry, but why ZL made so huge gap in lumens from M1 to H1? Some models have more than 10 times leap.



But there is a H2(139 lumens). So not a big gap. Just need to programme it.


----------



## newbie66

Darn, too many ZL threads. Difficult to follow.


----------



## markr6

jondextan said:


> Does the tint differ between the HI and the w models?



It seems to be the same on mine. Nice neutral, slightly warmer than I prefer but OK.



newbie66 said:


> But there is a H2(139 lumens). So not a big gap. Just need to programme it.



Yes, I usually keep mine on H2. A quick double click gets you back to H1.



newbie66 said:


> Darn, too many ZL threads. Difficult to follow.



No kidding!!


----------



## Skaaphaas

newbie66 said:


> Darn, too many ZL threads. Difficult to follow.


You know how difficult all these threads make it to not buy one? 

The only thing still stopping me is that I don't trust our postal service to not steal it, and that I don't know where in South Africa I'll be able to get flat-top unprotected 18650s. 

Otherwise I'd have placed an order for an SC63w already, I think my MH20NW would likely overlap with the SC600 range too much.


----------



## CelticCross74

Got my MkIII HI and the 3500mah unprotected Sanyo cell for it a few days ago. Had the MkII NW since that came out as well. I am beyond impressed with the MkIII HI. The fit and finish are ingot like and the little light is utterly blinding it makes my MkII NW look dim. Love the tint, am flabbergasted that such a tiny light throws a beam profile that is very well done as far as it does. Love how light the MkIII is its damn near a paperweight. Despite the increase in output it does not get hot as fast as my MkII does I have no idea how ZL pulled that one off.

The Sanyo cell I bought off their site for it so far is freaking fantastic and it was only eight bucks! I never have been and never will have the patience to time out the required press patterns needed to use all the lights bazillion interface features. I am perfectly fine with double clicking to throttle down a step in whichever mode and that is it. Using the MkIII's switch to access your way through all the features and modes is a PIA the ZL basically has the UI of a Rubiks Cube to me. ZL needs to step it up when it comes to their UI especially the switch itself. The 2 stage switch on the MH20 is a better set up for a light with so many modes and features. Would love to see the next gen ZL's come with a two stage switch designed and made to ZL standards that would be an instant classic.


----------



## Lex Icon

newbie66 said:


> Darn, too many ZL threads. Difficult to follow.


A separate Forum for "All things ZL" ?


----------



## newbie66

Lex Icon said:


> A separate Forum for "All things ZL" ?




+1


----------



## newbie66

CelticCross74 said:


> Got my MkIII HI and the 3500mah unprotected Sanyo cell for it a few days ago. Had the MkII NW since that came out as well. I am beyond impressed with the MkIII HI. The fit and finish are ingot like and the little light is utterly blinding it makes my MkII NW look dim. Love the tint, am flabbergasted that such a tiny light throws a beam profile that is very well done as far as it does. Love how light the MkIII is its damn near a paperweight. Despite the increase in output it does not get hot as fast as my MkII does I have no idea how ZL pulled that one off.
> 
> The Sanyo cell I bought off their site for it so far is freaking fantastic and it was only eight bucks! I never have been and never will have the patience to time out the required press patterns needed to use all the lights bazillion interface features. I am perfectly fine with double clicking to throttle down a step in whichever mode and that is it. Using the MkIII's switch to access your way through all the features and modes is a PIA the ZL basically has the UI of a Rubiks Cube to me. ZL needs to step it up when it comes to their UI especially the switch itself. The 2 stage switch on the MH20 is a better set up for a light with so many modes and features. Would love to see the next gen ZL's come with a two stage switch designed and made to ZL standards that would be an instant classic.



For beginners and non-flashaholics I guess it is quite a pain. But for me it is great.


----------



## newbie66

Skaaphaas said:


> You know how difficult all these threads make it to not buy one?
> 
> The only thing still stopping me is that I don't trust our postal service to not steal it, and that I don't know where in South Africa I'll be able to get flat-top unprotected 18650s.
> 
> Otherwise I'd have placed an order for an SC63w already, I think my MH20NW would likely overlap with the SC600 range too much.



I pity you. I would not know how to get it if I were in your position. Unless you are willing to risk it. If you are, you can try vinh's store which includes an LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh if you purchase from him.


----------



## newbie66

markr6 said:


> It seems to be the same on mine. Nice neutral, slightly warmer than I prefer but OK.



My mistake then.



markr6 said:


> Yes, I usually keep mine on H2. A quick double click gets you back to H1.


Me too!



markr6 said:


> No kidding!!



Truly.


----------



## emarkd

Lex Icon said:


> A separate Forum for "All things ZL" ?



I agree the current situation here with all the Zebra threads isn't idea, but the way CPF is set up, brand-specific forums like you suggest have to be moderated by a representative of that brand. So until Zebralight themselves step up to run the show, there won't be a Zebralight-specific forum here.


----------



## recDNA

emarkd said:


> I agree the current situation here with all the Zebra threads isn't idea, but the way CPF is set up, brand-specific forums like you suggest have to be moderated by a representative of that brand. So until Zebralight themselves step up to run the show, there won't be a Zebralight-specific forum here.


Even then there would be many threads. Like those of us who wanted to discuss protected vs unprotected got booted out to another thread created just to segregate it.


----------



## markr6

This really does manage the heat well. I just ran it for 5 minutes on H1 and the entire body is evenly warm, but not that much at all. I also couldn't detect the step down...either it didn't step down at all, or it is much less obvious than the SC63w. On the SC63w you can simply watch it for about 20 seconds and see the obvious stepdown. Either way, I'm very happy with the lack of heat on this one.


----------



## sdr

(OT) I think that these comments about ZL having too many threads needs their own thread. *wink*


----------



## Skaaphaas

newbie66 said:


> I pity you. I would not know how to get it if I were in your position. Unless you are willing to risk it. If you are, you can try vinh's store which includes an LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh if you purchase from him.


I only know of his subforum, can I trouble you for the name of his store? I wonder if he'll be able to ship the battery internationally.

Edit - Got it, Sky Lumen


----------



## CelticCross74

Im no beginner been collecting since 1996 and am a total flashaholic. I am impatient though getting the click patterns down right to get into the lights many other modes to me is a PIA even Selfbuilts MkIII review he spends a lot of time trying to correctly time the clicks to get the light into other functions. The current ZL side switch has been taken as far as it can really go in form and function a ZL version of the MH20 switch would be a world beater.


----------



## KeepingItLight

I think you probably have the right approach to the ZL interface. Considering how many different flashlights you own, I can see how it would be hard to remember the details of each UI. 

One great thing about the ZL interface is that you do not have to learn all of its features in order to use it. That's why I think your approach is good. 

From off:

Click once for High. 
Click twice for Medium. 
Click three times for strobe. 
Click four times for battery check. 
Press and hold for Low. 
Press and hold longer to cycle through Low, Medium, and High. 
When on:

Click once to turn off. 
Click twice to switch to an alternate level or alternate blinky. 
Press and hold for Low. 
Press and hold longer to cycle through Low, Medium, and High. 
You can skip the programming if you like.


----------



## newbie66

KeepingItLight said:


> I think you probably have the right approach to the ZL interface. Considering how many different flashlights you own, I can see how it would be hard to remember the details of each UI.
> 
> One great thing about the ZL interface is that you do not have to learn all of its features in order to use it. That's why I think your approach is good.
> 
> From off:
> 
> Click once for High.
> Click twice for Medium.
> Click three times for strobe.
> Click four times for battery check.
> Press and hold for Low.
> Press and hold longer to cycle through Low, Medium, and High.
> When on:
> 
> Click once to turn off.
> Click twice to switch to an alternate level.
> Press and hold for Low.
> Press and hold longer to cycle through Low, Medium, and High.
> You can skip the programming if you like.



Good advice. :thumbup:


----------



## newbie66

Skaaphaas said:


> I only know of his subforum, can I trouble you for the name of his store? I wonder if he'll be able to ship the battery internationally.
> 
> Edit - Got it, Sky Lumen



To be honest, I am not sure if he ships international for cells. I'll try and ask him.


----------



## CelticCross74

its all the programming etc that I am really talking about. A two stage switch would just make things far easier. Yeah i know press and hold to go through the modes double click to throttle down a step in any mode etc. Still love the light I still dont know how they got it to stay cool at max output for much longer than the lower output MkII. Great stuff I love it. Designed in Texas.


----------



## newbie66

Hey *Skaaphaas,* I asked vinh and he says he can ship anywhere.


----------



## Insulator Collector

snowlover91 said:


> The only drawback for me is the MK3 series has the pop on clip rather than the screw on and the little raised area near the tailcap prevents me from putting the pocket clip exactly opposite of the switch.



+1 My one and only beef with the SC600w MkIII is that darned little raised area for the lanyard hole. It just gets in the way when I try to clip the light on my belt. I can twist the belt clip to one side, but the light somehow feels lopsided in my hand when I do that. Too bad ZL couldn't make the lanyard hole flush with the body somehow. :sigh:

Other than that, I love this light!


----------



## snowlover91

Insulator Collector said:


> +1 My one and only beef with the SC600w MkIII is that darned little raised area for the lanyard hole. It just gets in the way when I try to clip the light on my belt. I can twist the belt clip to one side, but the light somehow feels lopsided in my hand when I do that. Too bad ZL couldn't make the lanyard hole flush with the body somehow. :sigh:
> 
> Other than that, I love this light!



Im thinking about filing down that area so I can use it as an EDC light but have mixed feelings. On one hand it would be great to have the clip in the correct location but I would also have to be careful when filing it down not to damage the rest of the light... Plus it may take awhile to file down.


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> Im thinking about filing down that area so I can use it as an EDC light but have mixed feelings. On one hand it would be great to have the clip in the correct location but I would also have to be careful when filing it down not to damage the rest of the light... Plus it may take awhile to file down.



I could knock that off quick with a Dremel, but I'm too vain to have a Zebralight with an ground-down unanodized spot


----------



## recDNA

Wait until warranty expires then grind it off


----------



## Tachead

I really think ZL should either make the lanyard loop removable on get rid of it altogether. It doesnt seem like many people use it or like it. They could at least move it to the side of the light so the clip can be mounted on the opposite side as the switch like most people seem to like it.

I would like to see a screwed on deep carry clip(flush with the tail cap) on the SC600 series. It could even have a hole to mount lanyards for the lanyard users.


----------



## Streak

Tachead said:


> I would like to see a screwed on deep carry clip(flush with the tail cap) on the SC600 series. It could even have a hole to mount lanyards for the lanyard users.



Now you're talking! This is the only thing stopping me from getting this light. Even if the clip was mounted the same as on the SC52 it would be great. IMO pocket carry lights with body switches need solid fixed clips. No fumbling looking for the switch when you grab it out of your picket. Looks like I'll be upgrading my 52 to the 63.


----------



## recDNA

Tachead said:


> I really think ZL should either make the lanyard loop removable on get rid of it altogether. It doesnt seem like many people use it or like it. They could at least move it to the side of the light so the clip can be mounted on the opposite side as the switch like most people seem to like it.
> 
> I would like to see a screwed on deep carry clip(flush with the tail cap) on the SC600 series. It could even have a hole to mount lanyards for the lanyard users.


100% agree. Why good clip on 63 and a cheesy one on their flagship? It makes no sense to me. I have never used a lanyard for any reason in my life.


----------



## Fireclaw18

recDNA said:


> 100% agree. Why good clip on 63 and a cheesy one on their flagship? It makes no sense to me. I have never used a lanyard for any reason in my life.



Seems like they should just make the tailcap slightly shorter and then have a ring-mount clip that slips in below the tailcap o-ring. The lanyard ring could be part of the clip. That type of clip has the advantage that it won't accidentally slip off if the light gets caught on something.

Personally, I never use clips and hate the SC63's clip. First thing I did when I got it was to unscrew and remove the clip. It's just useless dead-weight to carry around for us non-clip users. Of course without the clip installed the clip-mount protrudes, is very ugly, and has sharp corners.


----------



## Tachead

Fireclaw18 said:


> Seems like they should just make the tailcap slightly shorter and then have a ring-mount clip that slips in below the tailcap o-ring. The lanyard ring could be part of the clip. That type of clip has the advantage that it won't accidentally slip off if the light gets caught on something.
> 
> Personally, I never use clips and hate the SC63's clip. First thing I did when I got it was to unscrew and remove the clip. It's just useless dead-weight to carry around for us non-clip users. Of course without the clip installed the clip-mount protrudes, is very ugly, and has sharp corners.



I would speculate though that there is far far more people that prefer clips on small EDC lights then ones that dont though so, I think you unfortunately fall into the same camp as south paws do and will have to put up with what the masses want. A clip like the Dark Sucks one could work if they extended the threads and put a nut under the tail cap to hold it down. Then you could remove it with only a slightly larger gap instead of screw holes.


----------



## scout24

I had an older sc52 that I ground the pocket clip lug off of a year or so ago. Took off the clip, ran the screws back in nice and tight, and a couple minutes later it worked far nicer dropped into my pocket. More proof of concept than anything. I have a 6P clip, this is the first thing being done after I get my sc600 Mk III HI. Haven't ordered yet, I'll wait for stock to catch up.


----------



## recDNA

I love the sc62 clip set up and wish it were on the 600.


----------



## oneinthaair

recDNA said:


> I love the sc62 clip set up and wish it were on the 600.



You can always use a darksucks Ti clip on the 600


----------



## trojansteel

Wow that looks nice. So the depth of that clip doesn't prevent contact being made?


----------



## oKtosiTe

recDNA said:


> I love the sc62 clip set up and wish it were on the 600.


I love that the SC600's clip is reversible; hat clip ability is important to me.


----------



## oneinthaair

trojansteel said:


> Wow that looks nice. So the depth of that clip doesn't prevent contact being made?



Actually it does, the tail cap needs to be modified a tad bit, and the center of the clip needs to be enlarged a bit.


----------



## recDNA

oneinthaair said:


> You can always use a darksucks Ti clip on the 600


I'm not competent to put in the screw holes


----------



## trojansteel

oneinthaair said:


> Actually it does, the tail cap needs to be modified a tad bit, and the center of the clip needs to be enlarged a bit.



Maybe the added length would enable the Mk iii to accept protected 18650?


----------



## Skaaphaas

newbie66 said:


> Hey *Skaaphaas,* I asked vinh and he says he can ship anywhere.


Many thanks!


----------



## newbie66

Skaaphaas said:


> Many thanks!




No problemo.


----------



## markr6

I rarely need any more than my H600w when packpacking, but I took the SC600 HI just to mess with. Man, am I glad I did! It came in handy to search around at night and it's compact size took no space in my pack since it fit in a hip belt pocket which is always half empty anyway.

Here it is with my H600...sorry I'm not sure of the distance.

*H600w II (d-c-fix on lens)*







*SC600w III HI*





I got a much better understanding of the throw on this thing after using it in the woods. My favorite Zebralight!!


----------



## pse

What levels were both lights on?


----------



## scs

markr6 said:


> I rarely need any more than my H600w when packpacking, but I took the SC600 HI just to mess with. Man, am I glad I did! It came in handy to search around at night and it's compact size took no space in my pack since it fit in a hip belt pocket which is always half empty anyway.
> 
> Here it is with my H600...sorry I'm not sure of the distance.
> 
> *H600w II (d-c-fix on lens)*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *SC600w III HI*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a much better understanding of the throw on this thing after using it in the woods. My favorite Zebralight!!



Thanks for the beamshots.
The spill of the HI is impressively bright, brighter than the diffused beam of the H600 in the foreground, and only slightly dimmer in the background further away. Essentially, it's the beam of your diffused H600, and likely that of a H600F as well, plus a bright hotspot.


----------



## ven

Must:duck: avoid ZL threads..........note to me!!

Great beam pics


----------



## tops2

Nice beamshots! Its almost like a lightsabre cutting through the dark..but with the "spill" of the lightsabre illuminating the path to the target.


----------



## markr6

scs said:


> Thanks for the beamshots.
> The spill of the HI is impressively bright, brighter than the diffused beam of the H600 in the foreground, and only slightly dimmer in the background further away. Essentially, it's the beam of your diffused H600, and likely that of a H600F as well, plus a bright hotspot.



I didn't really pay attention to that in person, but yeah I think it's just so much light you can't avoid the spill. In person, your eyes really focus on that throw/center beam though.

I also had fun the previous night when it was really foggy...I started hiking about 5 minutes after the rain stopped, so it was thick.


----------



## newbie66

Thx mark6 for the shots! Really loving mine too!


----------



## KeepingItLight

markr6 said:


> I rarely need any more than my H600w when backpacking, but I took the SC600 HI just to mess with.



It's not like _you_ need any excuse, but you can always rationalize bringing the *ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III HI* by telling yourself it is your spare battery carrier. :shakehead


----------



## nfetterly

Used mine in a mill yesterday, very impressive.


----------



## oKtosiTe

KeepingItLight said:


> It's not like _you_ need any excuse, but you can always rationalize bringing the *ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III HI* by telling yourself it is your spare battery carrier. :shakehead



A battery carrier with built-in flashlight function? Why did no one think of this sooner?


----------



## markr6

One more to share. Tower is 110ft tall. I'm not sure if that means to the platform or the roof, but good enough.


----------



## Valmet62

Nice picture, could you take some images of the light on the lower levels ? I am interested in the difference in the throw vs spill at the lower levels. Although 1126 lumens is impressive, with great throw, I usually don't need that much light 95 % of the time. Thanks


----------



## recDNA

It would be cool to see beamshot of MKIII HI vs Nitecore MH20GT


----------



## Screwball69N

Just went outside to compare didn't take any beam shots but I can say that the new MH20GT is my new favorite thrower it's hot spot is tight and it has probably 75 to 100 yards more throw then the MKIII HI it is awesome a must if your looking for a super powerful thrower


----------



## CelticCross74

still anxious to see a MH20GT review. That beam shot of that tall tower was damn impressive!


----------



## Tachead

recDNA said:


> It would be cool to see beamshot of MKIII HI vs Nitecore MH20GT



I would like to see this too. The MH20GT will likely destroy it in throw but, it is quite a bit larger.


----------



## Tachead

CelticCross74 said:


> still anxious to see a MH20GT review. *That beam shot of that tall tower was damn impressive!*



+1 Thanks Mark:thumbsup:


----------



## recDNA

Tachead said:


> I would like to see this too. The MH20GT will likely destroy it in throw but, it is quite a bit larger.


The key is the XP-L not just the size. I was heartbroken that ZL never built an XP-L 600 with smooth reflector.


----------



## TheRealSpinner

Ok, it wasn't my plan, but I found some money sitting in my PayPal account, so I ordered the SC600w MK iii HI. Luckily, I'm leaving town for a week, so I won't be able to check the mail EVERY SINGLE DAY until it shows up. It'll hopefully be waiting at my shop for when I get back. 

Oh, and I forgot to mention… like I said, I found money. Enough, even, so I ordered the standard SC600w MK iii too! So I'll be able to post some comparison pics (taken with my phone) so you all will be able to decide for yourselves. :nana: You're Welcome. 

I figure, I was gonna buy one for myself, and test it out for a month or so, then buy one for my dad's bday anyway, so this way, I can compare the two now and give him the one that I think he will use more.


----------



## Koam

^^^Isnt the MK3 on back order? A week sounds optimistic!


----------



## CelticCross74

got the MH20GT today and of course it easily out throws the MkIII HI. That being said the beam out the MkIII HI is just plain better. The HI throws plenty far enough for general use and has an awesome neutral tint. Tint out the GT is blinding white. HI has a bigger hots spot with a lovely corona. GT has a small although not too small hot spot and no corona that I can see. Lastly and what I find most odd and impressive at the same time is that the GT gets hot FAST on max output. HI gets hot after a solid couple minutes or more thus handles heat much better than the GT. Still I like the GT it is very high output. It blows away my standard MH20 makes it look dim even. Another pro for the GT is that the spill is also very bright which in my experience is rare for an XP-L HI light. 

Both lights are the same price. NC did an outstanding job with the beam profile and output has got to be over 1000 lumens on max, still has all the blinky modes and voltage readout. The GT throws very very far I am actually very surprised by this. Beam profile width out the GT is surprisingly wide. I got a discount on the GT which made me pull the trigger. Is the GT worth $99? Time will tell I have only had it for several hours. I have had the MkIII HI for weeks now and it is more than worth the price charged. The unprotected GA was dirt cheap and has performed perfectly. I find the MkIII HI's throw range, profile and especially its very high output and tint to be top of the class. The tech packed into the MkIII is cutting edge and all the parts US sourced.

It is nice and dark now. Going to take both these lights out for a bit of adventuring...


----------



## akhyar

Thanks for the brief comparison CC.
Do you have side by side photo of the GT and HI to show the size comparison?
The GT head looks bigger than the standard MH20, and longer.

As for the GT retail pricing, the cheapskate in me is waiting for it to be available from group buy or discount code as the standard MH20 can be had for less than 50 bucks from mainland China using the coupon


----------



## TheRealSpinner

Koam said:


> ^^^Isnt the MK3 on back order? A week sounds optimistic!



Oh man, I hope not. I ordered from Zebralight website, and clicked the "Buy" button. Nothing said backordered… I supposed that doesn't necessarily mean all is good, but I'd at least expect to see something say it's out of stock. The email receipt didn't say anything about it either.  :shakehead


----------



## CelticCross74

will provide a side by side tomorrow. Yes the GT is longer by 6mm I think it is. NiteCore Store has a 15% off coupon code its why I jumped on it while I could. Zebralight list the MkIII HI as back ordered. ZL is usually good about refilling stock quickly though...


----------



## markr6

TheRealSpinner said:


> Oh man, I hope not. I ordered from Zebralight website, and clicked the "Buy" button. Nothing said backordered… I supposed that doesn't necessarily mean all is good, but I'd at least expect to see something say it's out of stock. The email receipt didn't say anything about it either.  :shakehead



Unfortunately it says 'Availability: Back Order' and has for quite some time now. Hopefully they'll be stocking a lot on the next batch, because this one is hot!


----------



## TheRealSpinner

markr6 said:


> Unfortunately it says 'Availability: Back Order'



Well, drat! I just looked at that. Didn't realize that when I ordered. I figured since it said "buy" it was in stock, or it would have said something to the order of "backordered" or "reserve" instead. Oh well. I guess I'll just have to live with the regular version for a bit.   :twothumbs


----------



## Lumencrazy

CelticCross74 said:


> got the MH20GT today and of course it easily out throws the MkIII HI. That being said the beam out the MkIII HI is just plain better. The HI throws plenty far enough for general use and has an awesome neutral tint. Tint out the GT is blinding white. HI has a bigger hots spot with a lovely corona. GT has a small although not too small hot spot and no corona that I can see. Lastly and what I find most odd and impressive at the same time is that the GT gets hot FAST on max output. HI gets hot after a solid couple minutes or more thus handles heat much better than the GT. Still I like the GT it is very high output. It blows away my standard MH20 makes it look dim even. Another pro for the GT is that the spill is also very bright which in my experience is rare for an XP-L HI light.
> 
> Both lights are the same price. NC did an outstanding job with the beam profile and output has got to be over 1000 lumens on max, still has all the blinky modes and voltage readout. The GT throws very very far I am actually very surprised by this. Beam profile width out the GT is surprisingly wide. I got a discount on the GT which made me pull the trigger. Is the GT worth $99? Time will tell I have only had it for several hours. I have had the MkIII HI for weeks now and it is more than worth the price charged. The unprotected GA was dirt cheap and has performed perfectly. I find the MkIII HI's throw range, profile and especially its very high output and tint to be top of the class. The tech packed into the MkIII is cutting edge and all the parts US sourced.
> 
> It is nice and dark now. Going to take both these lights out for a bit of adventuring...




What parts are US Sourced?


----------



## ven

Forget the lights!..................I need a back yard like CC's!!


Look forward to beam pics


----------



## snowlover91

Lumencrazy said:


> What parts are US Sourced?




This thread below discusses the parts that are US sourced as well as the protection circuit used. 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...I-HI-BUY-IT!&p=4878190&viewfull=1#post4878190


----------



## Lumencrazy

snowlover91 said:


> This thread below discusses the parts that are US sourced as well as the protection circuit used.
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...I-HI-BUY-IT!&p=4878190&viewfull=1#post4878190



On example, Cree does have a US Corporate Office in Durham, NC. But ALL of their LED’s are manufactured in Hong Kong (without exception). You can read that in their annual report where they openly disclose all of their manufacturing facilities. So you were given a misleading answer. If you order samples of new Led’s from Cree (as I have done on numerous occasions) they come via FEDEX from China. 
We believe what we want to. Personally, I would rather have my electronics manufactured in China. They now have more expertise. Quality is determined not by capability but by price point and what the marketing department decides the consumer will accept. Corning also has their coporate office in NY State and glass manufacturing facilities in China. You think they manufacture Gorilla glass in the US and ship it all the way to China, considering all of the other products (computer monitors cell phones, and etc.,)manufactured in that country using gorilla glass?


----------



## Koam

snowlover91 said:


> This thread below discusses the parts that are US sourced as well as the protection circuit used.
> 
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...I-HI-BUY-IT!&p=4878190&viewfull=1#post4878190



I posted this in another thread but a couple of days ago I got a call from Zebralights to confirm an order I placed online for the MK3HI. Ended up talking with the guy about 30 minutes and he gave me tons of info about their lights, terminology, manufacturing, batteries and chargers. Being new to these type of flashlights I super interested in everything he had to say. He also had high praise for this site. He did mention they are building a facility to manufacture their lights in Dallas for the US market and possibly all of North America. In fact he was in that building as we spoke and some of the machines were already there. He thought it should be running by the end of the year.


----------



## CelticCross74

the LED is indeed from Cree NC. Check the other MkIII HI thread for a source breakdown.


----------



## Lumencrazy

CelticCross74 said:


> the LED is indeed from Cree NC. Check the other MkIII HI thread for a source breakdown.




From 2015 Cree’s annual report (page 24)

“........LED products are produced at our owned manufacturing facilities located in Huizhou, Guangdong Province, China. We also owndormitories for housing our Chinese employees near and adjacent to the owned manufacturing facilities. The owned manufacturingfacilities, dormitories, and support buildings are located on land that is leased from the Chinese government through four leases.The land leases supporting the manufacturing facilities include: a lease for eight acres that expires in June 2057; a lease for twoacres that expires in November 2060; and a lease for three acres that expires in December 2063. There is a separate land leasefor five acres, which land is used for dormitory buildings, that expires in December 2082. During fiscal 2015, the Company alsoproduced LED products at a leased facility in Huizhou. Production was moved to the owned manufacturing facilities in Huizhouin spring 2015, and the leased facility was surrendered to the landlord..........”

In Durham NC they produce other products! also page 24.


“...........In the United States, our corporate headquarters as well as our primary research and development and manufacturing operationsare located at the Durham, North Carolina facilities that we own. These Durham facilities sit on 149 acres of land that we own.Our power and RF products are primarily produced at our owned manufacturing facility located in Research Triangle Park, NorthCarolina. This facility sits on 55 acres of land that we own......” 
*
Maybe we should contact Cree and tell them they do not know where they are making their Led**’s*


----------



## CelticCross74

maybe we should as they have ZL thinking their LED's are from NC


----------



## snowlover91

I think people are misreading Zebralights response. I see nowhere that says the actual parts they get are made in those cities. Instead they say something like "LED from Durham, NC based Cree" They use "based" for each manufacturer which tells me their intent was to convey that these are American companies, whether or not the actual product is made in America varies by company but they are at least buying it from American companies. That's how I read their reply, at least.


----------



## Koam

When I was talking to the ZL rep we got onto the subject of Cree and he was very clear the manufacturing was happening in China and not the US. He was very casual and forthright. In my mind there's no finessing of the info.


----------



## Connor

Who cares on which part of the planet it is made? All that counts for me is the quality.


----------



## oKtosiTe

Connor said:


> Who cares on which part of the planet it is made? All that counts for me is the quality.


For me labor standards and stimulating the local economy are factors too. And price.


----------



## Connor

oKtosiTe said:


> For me labor standards and stimulating the local economy are factors too. And price.



:twothumbs To stay on topic: It's not like you (Sweden) oder me (Germany) have much of a choice here .. ZebraLight won't be stimulating our local economies anytime soon, I guess. 
Doesn't change the fact that ZL makes some of the best most compact EDC flashlights right now. I would definitely still buy them if they were made 100% in China, Russia or on Mars.


----------



## recDNA

Connor said:


> Who cares on which part of the planet it is made? All that counts for me is the quality.


I do. China owns a dangerously high amount of our debt (bonds etc). If a product is made in North America I give it an edge of a similar product made overseas. Unfortunately, there is no product even similar to Zebralight produced here.


----------



## Connor

recDNA said:


> I do. China owns a dangerously high amount of our debt (bonds etc). If a product is made in North America I give it an edge of a similar product made overseas. Unfortunately, there is no product even similar to Zebralight produced here.



My point is: if you think like this, you have to think with the whole planet in mind, not just whatever your country coincidentally may be. Even if it's made in the US (or wherever) the raw materials will probably be from somewhere else, esp. if there's stuff like noble earths for electronics involved.


----------



## recDNA

Connor said:


> My point is: if you think like this, you have to think with the whole planet in mind, not just whatever your country coincidentally may be. Even if it's made in the US (or wherever) the raw materials will probably be from somewhere else, esp. if there's stuff like noble earths for electronics involved.


Not I. I care much more about USA. That is not to say I don't favor improvements world wide as long as they are not bad for USA. Losing jobs to other countries may very well be best for the planet but I am American and care much more about Americans.

That said I am not a fanatic. If I want a product that is not built here (almost any electronics) I will still buy it. I would go with a comparable North American alternative whenever there is one. 

To get back on topic I know of no light built in USA comparable to Zebralight.


----------



## oKtosiTe

Connor said:


> :twothumbs To stay on topic: It's not like you (Sweden) oder me (Germany) have much of a choice here .. ZebraLight won't be stimulating our local economies anytime soon, I guess.
> Doesn't change the fact that ZL makes some of the best most compact EDC flashlights right now. I would definitely still buy them if they were made 100% in China, Russia or on Mars.



Hehe, in this case it makes no matter. It was more of a general statement.


----------



## oKtosiTe

recDNA said:


> Not I. I care much more about USA. That is not to say I don't favor improvements world wide as long as they are not bad for USA. Losing jobs to other countries may very well be best for the planet but I am American and care much more about Americans.
> 
> That said I am not a fanatic. If I want a product that is not built here (almost any electronics) I will still buy it. I would go with a comparable North American alternative whenever there is one.
> 
> To get back on topic I know of no light built in USA comparable to Zebralight.



I think one of his points was that even a light entirely "produced" and assembled in the US would still use raw materials sourced from other places around the world.


----------



## CelticCross74

just be happy its a Cree and not a LatticeBright ripoff


----------



## recDNA

oKtosiTe said:


> I think one of his points was that even a light entirely "produced" and assembled in the US would still use raw materials sourced from other places around the world.


That may or may not be true but it's manufacturing jobs I want back. I'd like a steel industry back too but one step at a time.

I would heavily tax products assembled outside N. America to encourage building things here again.

I thought ZL was going to have an assembly plant here? Isn't that still in the works?


----------



## eraursls1984

recDNA said:


> That may or may not be true but it's manufacturing jobs I want back. I'd like a steel industry back too but one step at a time.
> 
> I would heavily tax products assembled outside N. America to encourage building things here again.
> 
> I thought ZL was going to have an assembly plant here? Isn't that still in the works?


Tariffs are a horrible idea and increasing them would only further hurt our economy. The better solution to bring jobs back to America is to lower, or better yet, abolish business taxes.


----------



## BOHAWG

When did this flashlight discussion turn into a political forum?


----------



## CelticCross74

happens from time to time due to US companies producing light parts in X country instead of the US. Still....am happy to see ZL using parts made by US companies at least...who really knows where everything is sourced. I know ZL is building a manufacturing plant in Texas which is cool


----------



## nbp

This thread is wildly off topic. Let's bring it back around. Further discussion of American jobs, tariffs, nationalism and the like will be deleted. Thanks guys.


----------



## Koam

When I ordered my light on 4/11, I emailed ZL about the back order time frame. They said lead time was 2-3 weeks.


----------



## EBuff75

My SC600 Mk III took just under 4 weeks to arrive (ordered 3/13, delivered 4/8), so 2-3 weeks for the lead time sounds about right. I think mine actually shipped right around the 3 week mark. Their website said that it was backordered the entire time. I assume that whenever they get some in stock they fill the oldest orders first, so the amount of delay will depend on what position you are in the order queue.


----------



## BOHAWG

Guys Guys.... don't be upset with the backorder delay. I ordered my lights 11/16/2015 and received them 1/6/2016.... 2 to 3 weeks is a cakewalk [emoji38] [emoji38] [emoji38] [emoji38]


----------



## jondextan

Mine was shipped 4/1 via EMS and i had no updated on tracking since 4/2, i am now wondering if my package got lost. My wait was exactly 1 month from order to shipped.


----------



## snowlover91

The wait is definitely worth it for this light, I preordered mine in early January and received it mid-February. I use it all the time, it's a great light with excellent tint and good throw for its size. When using it outside it easily lights up anything within 150-200 yards which is all I need. The balance between throw and spill is also good so it makes it useful for short range applications also. Definitely one of ZL's best lights, imo, and the light manages the heat extremely well. Worth every penny!


----------



## newbie66

snowlover91 said:


> The wait is definitely worth it for this light, I preordered mine in early January and received it mid-February. I use it all the time, it's a great light with excellent tint and good throw for its size. When using it outside it easily lights up anything within 150-200 yards which is all I need. The balance between throw and spill is also good so it makes it useful for short range applications also. Definitely one of ZL's best lights, imo, and the light manages the heat extremely well. Worth every penny!




Indeed!


----------



## redsouljah

newbie66 said:


> Indeed!



Hi guys,
I am planning to get the Orbtronic 18650 3500mah IMR which has a dimension of 65.6mm height. will this fit the the sc600 mkiii?

New 18650 IMR High Drain-High Capacity Battery 3500mAh by Orbtronic - Flat, or Button top.


Specifications:
Battery type: 18650 High Drain Hybrid IMR 
Capacity: 3500mAh
Max Discharge capability - Continuous Current Load: 10A (10000mA)
Max Discharge capability - Pulse Current: 18A (18000mA)
Full charge: 4.2V
Charging method: CC/CV
Max Charging current: 2 Amp
Nominal voltage: 3.6V-3.7V
Discharge voltage level limit: 2.5V
Dimensions: 18.5mm x 65.6mm
Weight: 48g
Charge: 10 to +45°C
Discharge: -20 to +60°C
Storage: -20 to +50°C
Button top or Flat top model available
Protected: No, this cell is unprotected


----------



## oKtosiTe

redsouljah said:


> Hi guys,
> I am planning to get the Orbtronic 18650 3500mah IMR which has a dimension of 65.6mm height. will this fit the the sc600 mkiii?
> 
> New 18650 IMR High Drain-High Capacity Battery 3500mAh by Orbtronic - Flat, or Button top.


I'm quite sure that's 0.4mm longer than the maximum 65.2mm.


----------



## newbie66

redsouljah said:


> Hi guys,
> I am planning to get the Orbtronic 18650 3500mah IMR which has a dimension of 65.6mm height. will this fit the the sc600 mkiii?
> 
> New 18650 IMR High Drain-High Capacity Battery 3500mAh by Orbtronic - Flat, or Button top.
> 
> 
> Specifications:
> Battery type: 18650 High Drain Hybrid IMR
> Capacity: 3500mAh
> Max Discharge capability - Continuous Current Load: 10A (10000mA)
> Max Discharge capability - Pulse Current: 18A (18000mA)
> Full charge: 4.2V
> Charging method: CC/CV
> Max Charging current: 2 Amp
> Nominal voltage: 3.6V-3.7V
> Discharge voltage level limit: 2.5V
> Dimensions: 18.5mm x 65.6mm
> Weight: 48g
> Charge: 10 to +45°C
> Discharge: -20 to +60°C
> Storage: -20 to +50°C
> Button top or Flat top model available
> Protected: No, this cell is unprotected



I am not familiar with Obtronics but the only ones I know that fit are the Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A 18650 and LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh. You can get the LG from vinh.


----------



## BOHAWG

redsouljah said:


> Hi guys,
> I am planning to get the Orbtronic 18650 3500mah IMR which has a dimension of 65.6mm height. will this fit the the sc600 mkiii?
> 
> New 18650 IMR High Drain-High Capacity Battery 3500mAh by Orbtronic - Flat, or Button top.
> 
> 
> Specifications:
> Battery type: 18650 High Drain Hybrid IMR
> Capacity: 3500mAh
> Max Discharge capability - Continuous Current Load: 10A (10000mA)
> Max Discharge capability - Pulse Current: 18A (18000mA)
> Full charge: 4.2V
> Charging method: CC/CV
> Max Charging current: 2 Amp
> Nominal voltage: 3.6V-3.7V
> Discharge voltage level limit: 2.5V
> Dimensions: 18.5mm x 65.6mm
> Weight: 48g
> Charge: 10 to +45°C
> Discharge: -20 to +60°C
> Storage: -20 to +50°C
> Button top or Flat top model available
> Protected: No, this cell is unprotected


Do yourself a favor and buy batteries for your zebralight from zebralight. Then you won't have to worry about whether they'll fit.


----------



## oKtosiTe

BOHAWG said:


> Do yourself a favor and buy batteries for your zebralight from zebralight. Then you won't have to worry about whether they'll fit.


That might not be an option for everyone, mostly due to shipping costs/restrictions. Here in Europia NKON is a pretty popular source of Li-ions (and possibly Zebralight "torches").


----------



## BOHAWG

oKtosiTe said:


> That might not be an option for everyone, mostly due to shipping costs/restrictions. Here in Europia NKON is a pretty popular source of Li-ions (and possibly Zebralight "torches").


Here's one thing I know for sure..... You definitely can't buy Zebralights just anywhere like most other torches. Most of us have to buy our Zebralights from zebralight.... So I'm not sure who or what NKON is but if they're fortunate enough to somehow sell zebralight torches.... I would just guess they'll have the right size battery.... just saying.


----------



## Connor

redsouljah said:


> Hi guys,
> I am planning to get the Orbtronic 18650 3500mah IMR which has a dimension of 65.6mm height. will this fit the the sc600 mkiii?




From the ZL website: *Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. unprotected, 65.0-65.2 mm long) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable.
*That's a "no", I guess.


----------



## recDNA

redsouljah said:


> Hi guys,
> I am planning to get the Orbtronic 18650 3500mah IMR which has a dimension of 65.6mm height. will this fit the the sc600 mkiii?
> 
> New 18650 IMR High Drain-High Capacity Battery 3500mAh by Orbtronic - Flat, or Button top.
> 
> 
> Specifications:
> Battery type: 18650 High Drain Hybrid IMR
> Capacity: 3500mAh
> Max Discharge capability - Continuous Current Load: 10A (10000mA)
> Max Discharge capability - Pulse Current: 18A (18000mA)
> Full charge: 4.2V
> Charging method: CC/CV
> Max Charging current: 2 Amp
> Nominal voltage: 3.6V-3.7V
> Discharge voltage level limit: 2.5V
> Dimensions: 18.5mm x 65.6mm
> Weight: 48g
> Charge: 10 to +45°C
> Discharge: -20 to +60°C
> Storage: -20 to +50°C
> Button top or Flat top model available
> Protected: No, this cell is unprotected


I do not see how the button top and flT top can be the same length. Why not call Orbtronics and ask?


----------



## markr6

There's also the possibility of websites having a lot of "cut and paste" errors; forgetting to update the lengths. I think the best bet and use of $8 is to just go with the NCR18650GA


----------



## GunnarGG

markr6 said:


> There's also the possibility of websites having a lot of "cut and paste" errors; forgetting to update the lengths. I think the best bet and use of $8 is to just go with the NCR18650GA



This cell is available from nkon.


----------



## GunnarGG

And it fits and work fine.


----------



## BOHAWG

GunnarGG said:


> And it fits and work fine.


Do you have any zebralight torches?


----------



## GunnarGG

BOHAWG said:


> Do you have any zebralight torches?



Yes, a few.
Among them two that uses 18650.
In my SC62d I usually have an Eagletac 3400 protected cell and in my SC600 III HI I use the NCR18650GA that was discussed above.
Mine are not from Nkon though, I ordered them from Gearbest (the NCR18650GA).


----------



## tsask

That ZL SC600w Mk III HI looks like a 'must have'. I see they are sold out at the Zebralight website; maybe I can save some $$$ for a few weeks LOL.. I appreciate the news of a 'new' more powerful version being released later this Summer. Any new news on this??? THANKS!


----------



## EsthetiX

GunnarGG said:


> This cell is available from nkon.



You can get it on Amazon too. Seller has it currently priced at $3,000.00 USD though lol

http://www.amazon.com/dp/NCR18650GA/?tag=cpf0b6-20


----------



## redryder

EsthetiX said:


> You can get it on Amazon too. Seller has it currently priced at $3,000.00 USD though lol
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/NCR18650GA/?tag=cpf0b6-20



The listing says 180 pieces.


----------



## BOHAWG

If one ordered 180 pieces from zebralight, it would only be half that price!


----------



## pse

Are there any outdoor beamshots comparing SC600 mk3 HI with SC63 on different levels (m1, m2, h1, h2)? I understand the throw on h1 is much better with the HI, but I'd like to see the difference with more floody light (sc6x, sc52, sc5) on the medium levels, which I plan to use most.


----------



## TheRealSpinner

Quick photos taken with my phone tonight 



 
Zebralight SC63w. Treetops are about 20 yards away. H1 setting.



 
Zebralight SC600w MKIII HI. Treetops are about 20 yards away. H1 setting.

The other settings on the flashlights didn't show up on my phone. Sorry.


----------



## TheRealSpinner

Funny thing is, I JUST cut these acrylic pieces to hold my MKIII and SC63w since I tend to carry them simultaneously anyway.



This makes them much easier to hold in one hand. These clips hold the lights so that they overlap (basically) perfectly. Now I have the best of both worlds. Flood for close, and throw for far. 😊


----------



## Lex Icon

TheRealSpinner said:


> Quick photos taken with my phone tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zebralight SC63w. Treetops are about 20 yards away. H1 setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zebralight SC600w MKIII HI. Treetops are about 20 yards away. How setting.
> 
> The other settings on the flashlights didn't show up on my phone. Sorry.


Sorry? Sorry for what?
As far as I'm concerned you laid the question to rest. The building in the far background as reference is the clincher.
Thanks...


----------



## MAD777

TheRealSpinner said:


> Funny thing is, I JUST cut these acrylic pieces to hold my MKIII and SC63w since I tend to carry them simultaneously anyway.



That's very creative! 
I must admit that I would have used duct tape. LOL


----------



## TheRealSpinner

TheRealSpinner said:


> I JUST cut these acrylic pieces to hold my SC600w MKIII HI and SC63w since I tend to carry them simultaneously anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> This makes them much easier to hold in one hand. These clips hold the lights so that they overlap (basically) perfectly. Now I have the best of both worlds. Flood for close, and throw for far. 😊



Wow! Just tried this out tonight. Wish I had video, this is awesome.
Default settings I used for both lights tonight:
H2 set to lowest setting
M2 set to medium setting
L1 (default)

I seem to mostly run the SC63w on H2, and always have H1 when I need it. If the streetlights are brighter, I add in the SC00w H2. Then play with it by blasting into H1 on both for fun.

When it's darker, I run the 63w at M2, and add in the 600w when necessary. Then jump between all the levels to compensate for ambient light.

My favorite part is just how well these beams compliment each other. The clip aligns the two torches so that they overlap perfectly. I might need to go back out and take some beamshots…


----------



## superpila

I got mine a couple of days ago. My first Zebralight.
As far as my opinion is worth: I can't believe I lived so far without owning a Zebralight. It's the closest thing to the perfect EDC I've ever owned. 
It screams quality from every little detail and it's impressively bright. I know we tend to say the same thing for every new EDC, but this really sets a new meaning to "bright for its size". Plus the tint is great, which is very important to me.
I ordered it less than two weeks ago, with the websites saying "back order", but I got it after 10 days anyway. VERY VERY HAPPY!


----------



## CelticCross74

Yup. The MkIII HI is one of the greatest lights I have ever bought and that is saying a LOT considering my collection is well over 50 lights. The unprotected GA ZL sells on their site is stone cold perfect for it.


----------



## wolfgaze

I am curious where the rumored August release date for the High CRI version of the SC600 originated from.... Did this come about from someone emailing ZL and receiving this information in response? If so has anyone sent a more recent inquiry? This light will very likely be my next flashlight purchase and my last purchase for a good while... 

If this information was listed on the ZL spreadsheet forgive me as I'm unable to view the entire document on my unsupported Android browser (I cannot scroll to the right within the document)


----------



## snowlover91

wolfgaze said:


> I am curious where the rumored August release date for the High CRI version of the SC600 originated from.... Did this come about from someone emailing ZL and receiving this information in response? If so has anyone sent a more recent inquiry? This light will very likely be my next flashlight purchase and my last purchase for a good while...
> 
> If this information was listed on the ZL spreadsheet forgive me as I'm unable to view the entire document on my unsupported Android browser (I cannot scroll to the right within the document)



I believe someone did email them and ZL replied that they were aiming for August. Of course that could change based on how product testing, production preparation, etc goes. I definitely have a little money set aside as this would be my next light purchase, haven't bought a light since my MK3 HI. Combining 93-95cri with a 5k tint and a floody beam at 1000 or more lumens would make a great companion light for the HI. ZL hasn't listed anything new on their spreadsheet but I'm hoping we see an update within a month, or sooner


----------



## CelticCross74

I have noticed ZL will list a new light on their product sheet then a week or so later its no longer listed. Seen that a couple times.


----------



## recDNA

CelticCross74 said:


> I have noticed ZL will list a new light on their product sheet then a week or so later its no longer listed. Seen that a couple times.


It's been there a long time hasn't it?


----------



## wolfgaze

I emailed ZL about the PLUS model and got a 'late summer' answer... So at least we can assume that the anticipated release hasn't been delayed (as of yet)...


----------



## markr6

Pretty much everything else is still out of stock, so I feel like the plus is just getting delayed. Or, everything else is getting delayed due to work on the plus! Wishful thinking


----------



## recDNA

wolfgaze said:


> I emailed ZL about the PLUS model and got a 'late summer' answer... So at least we can assume that the anticipated release hasn't been delayed (as of yet)...


I hope you're right. Holding off on the others waiting for the plus. Will be buying a new Note phone in October so I don't want to be buying both a phone and Zebralight the same month. I have a conscience


----------



## Lucky Duck

markr6 said:


> Pretty much everything else is still out of stock, so I feel like the plus is just getting delayed. Or, everything else is getting delayed due to work on the plus! Wishful thinking



* I prefer wishful drinking* :drunk:


----------



## tops2

recDNA said:


> I hope you're right. Holding off on the others waiting for the plus. Will be buying a new Note phone in October so I don't want to be buying both a phone and Zebralight the same month. *I have a conscience*



lol!

Man..So hard not buying anymore lights for me too. Strange the next planned purchase (of anything, including non-flashlight stuff) that I'm the most excited about is the Plus version.


----------



## markr6

markr6 said:


> Pretty much everything else is still out of stock, so I feel like the plus is just getting delayed. Or, everything else is getting delayed due to work on the plus! Wishful thinking



Spoke too soon. SC63 and SC63w back in stock. SC600w III has been in stock for a long time.


----------



## thedraperyfalls

Hi guys, I just bought the SC600 MKlll and it's an amazing light. I hope to find the time to do a short review soon.

I love everything except for the clip. It's functional but I think it can be better.
Are there any alternative clips, custom or otherwise, that will fit the SC600 MKlll?

Thank you in advance!


----------



## neutralwhite

good question.
I'm waiting on the SC600III from flashaholics!.



thedraperyfalls said:


> Hi guys, I just bought the SC600 MKllll and it's an amazing light. I hope to find the time to do a short review soon.
> 
> I love everything except for the clip. It's functional but I think it can be better.
> Are there any alternative clips, custom or otherwise, that will fit the SC600 MKlll?
> 
> Thank you in advance!


----------



## neutralwhite

any beam shots of the MkIII HI cool white?.
vinh in one of his videos on this, mentioned its 5700k-more white than blue.
wonder what the CRI is.

thanks.


----------



## wolfgaze

neutralwhite said:


> any beam shots of the MkIII HI cool white?.



I don't see on the ZL website that the SC600 MK3 *HI* is offered in cool white tint.... 

The regular SC600 MK3 cool white model has a listed color temperature of 5700k and a CRI of 70....


----------



## cmd

thedraperyfalls said:


> Hi guys, I just bought the SC600 MKlll and it's an amazing light. I hope to find the time to do a short review soon.
> 
> I love everything except for the clip. It's functional but I think it can be better.
> Are there any alternative clips, custom or otherwise, that will fit the SC600 MKlll?
> 
> Thank you in advance!



Check these nice titanium deep carry clips out:
http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-knife-parts/folding-knife-parts/other-folding-parts.html

You would want one of the 2 hole .040" versions, but be prepared to do some filing of the holes because they are about 1mm too far apart to fit. I have one on my SC63w, which is the same clip as the SC5 and SC600.


----------



## oKtosiTe

cmd said:


> Check these nice titanium deep carry clips out:
> http://usaknifemaker.com/folding-knife-parts/folding-knife-parts/other-folding-parts.html
> 
> You would want one of the 2 hole .040" versions, but be prepared to do some filing of the holes because they are about 1mm too far apart to fit. I have one on my SC63w, which is the same clip as the SC5 and SC600.



Huh? The SC600-III has a completely different clip from the SC63 and SC5.


----------



## emarkd

oKtosiTe said:


> Huh? The SC600-III has a completely different clip from the SC63 and SC5.


Yeah, the larger 600-series lights have always had a removable clip while the smaller 6x-series are integrated.


----------



## markr6

neutralwhite said:


> any beam shots of the MkIII HI cool white?.
> vinh in one of his videos on this, mentioned its 5700k-more white than blue.
> wonder what the CRI is.
> 
> thanks.



Like wolfgaze said, no HI in cool white. But here's the standard MKIII in both flavors. In person they were both nice and I had a hard time deciding which one I liked better.


----------



## cmd

emarkd said:


> Yeah, the larger 600-series lights have always had a removable clip while the smaller 6x-series are integrated.



Yep, correct, my bad.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

I posted this question on another thread, but wanted to ask it here as well. For those that have both the Nitecore MH20GT AND the Zebralight SC600w MKIII HI, which do you like better? Why?

I haven't been around cpf in a long time, and am just now learning about these pocket throwers with the HI LED's...very nice!! I was going to buy the SC600 HI until I saw the MH20GT. I think the extra size may be worth the more than double cd (17k vs 37k). What's most important to me in a light like this for my uses is - size, weight, throw, UI, & uses an 18650. Most mornings I go trail running before sun up (*why more flashaholics don't do this is a mystery to me*) plus I use my lights backpacking & camping each month. So small compact lightweight lights are most interesting to me & have been for a long time. Thanks for your help.


----------



## neutralwhite

thanks bro!.




markr6 said:


> Like wolfgaze said, no HI in cool white. But here's the standard MKIII in both flavors. In person they were both nice and I had a hard time deciding which one I liked better.


----------



## markr6

Outdoorsman5 said:


> I posted this question on another thread, but wanted to ask it here as well. For those that have both the Nitecore MH20GT AND the Zebralight SC600w MKIII HI, which do you like better? Why?
> 
> I haven't been around cpf in a long time, and am just now learning about these pocket throwers with the HI LED's...very nice!! I was going to buy the SC600 HI until I saw the MH20GT. I think the extra size may be worth the more than double cd (17k vs 37k). What's most important to me in a light like this for my uses is - size, weight, throw, UI, & uses an 18650. Most mornings I go trail running before sun up (*why more flashaholics don't do this is a mystery to me*) plus I use my lights backpacking & camping each month. So small compact lightweight lights are most interesting to me & have been for a long time. Thanks for your help.



I had the standard MH20, but I just like the Zebralight UI better and the sub lumen modes. When I'm backpacking and wake up at 3am in my hammock in the middle of nowhere, pitch black, something like .06lm is plenty to get around and easy on your eyes.

I always take my H600w and now I just started taking my SC600 HI since it fits right in the hipbelt pocket on my pack. Not a necessity, but it's lots of fun to use in the woods at night!


----------



## snowlover91

Outdoorsman5 said:


> I posted this question on another thread, but wanted to ask it here as well. For those that have both the Nitecore MH20GT AND the Zebralight SC600w MKIII HI, which do you like better? Why?
> 
> I haven't been around cpf in a long time, and am just now learning about these pocket throwers with the HI LED's...very nice!! I was going to buy the SC600 HI until I saw the MH20GT. I think the extra size may be worth the more than double cd (17k vs 37k). What's most important to me in a light like this for my uses is - size, weight, throw, UI, & uses an 18650. Most mornings I go trail running before sun up (*why more flashaholics don't do this is a mystery to me*) plus I use my lights backpacking & camping each month. So small compact lightweight lights are most interesting to me & have been for a long time. Thanks for your help.



Although I don't have both lights I can offer my experience. For hiking and running on a trail I find it best to have a light with a good blend of throw and spill. Too much spill doesn't give enough distance to look ahead while too much throw results in a tight hotspot that is too focused at short distances. The MK3 HI for me offers a great blend of spill/throw and the neutral tint is great for the outdoors and color rendition too.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

snowlover91 said:


> Although I don't have both lights I can offer my experience. For hiking and running on a trail I find it best to have a light with a good blend of throw and spill. Too much spill doesn't give enough distance to look ahead while too much throw results in a tight hotspot that is too focused at short distances. The MK3 HI for me offers a great blend of spill/throw and the neutral tint is great for the outdoors and color rendition too.



Thanks for the reply, and I agree on having a good combo of flood & throw. When I'm trail running in the mornings and backpacking at night (we often start trips on Friday nights) I use my Zebra H600w MkII which is perfect for me. I mainly use the 330 lum setting when running and I use the 150 lum setting when backpacking. We walked right up on a black bear this past Oct after starting out on a Fri night (the bear ran from us when I called to my son to look...that was cool!) When running I carry a handheld throwy light (usually an Olight M2X-UT) to spot critters and for fun. We've only seen 2 bears on our property recently, but find scat quite often. We even had a mountain lion that hung around our property for a few weeks 3 years ago (they're not suppose to live around here according to the dnr).

I like a floody headlamp and a throwy handheld. If the new SC600 HI is more of a balanced thrower & flooder then I'd prolly pass. I'd rather this next handheld be way more throwy so I can carry something smaller than the Olight when I'm trail running (I mostly run on forest service roads & trails in the national forest that connects to my property which is quite remote...lots of animals.) With how small the new Nitecore & Zebra is, I'd prolly take one of them backpacking (my olight is way too big for backpacking, but great for most other trips.)


----------



## markr6

Outdoorsman5 said:


> We even had a mountain lion that hung around our property for a few weeks 3 years ago (they're not suppose to live around here according to the dnr).



Oh they're there! Michigan DNR neither "confirmed nor denied" their existence up there for years. People would have them on deer cams and you'd see footprints in the sand. They finally gave in. Not something I want to tango with out in the woods. 100x scarier than a black bear IMO.


----------



## Outdoorsman5

markr6 said:


> Oh they're there! ...100x scarier than a black bear IMO.



I agree!! And I have a wife & 3 kids!!! Needless to say, when I'm walking around in the woods I carry my Glock 29 in 10mm loaded up with Underwood's 220gr hardcast mixed with their Xtreme Penetrators! The 10mm is too big to go running with, so I carry my Glock 43 9mm loaded up with Underwoods +P+ 147gr hardball mixed with their +P+ Xtreme Penetrator (largest gun I can comfortably carry running. I've tried carrying my G27 & G33, but just too heavy.)


----------



## markr6

Outdoorsman5 said:


> I agree!! And I have a wife & 3 kids!!! Needless to say, when I'm walking around in the woods I carry my Glock 29 in 10mm loaded up with Underwood's 220gr hardcast mixed with their Xtreme Penetrators! The 10mm is too big to go running with, so I carry my Glock 43 9mm loaded up with Underwoods +P+ 147gr hardball mixed with their +P+ Xtreme Penetrator (largest gun I can comfortably carry running. I've tried carrying my G27 & G33, but just too heavy.)



I found even a Glock 19 with 6 rounds loaded to be annoying and heavy. Just something I couldn't get used to and never bothered to renew carry permit. I hope I never get into a situation where I need it!

Oh, and a nice shot of my SC600 HI posted earlier in the thread to help you buy it


----------



## Outdoorsman5

markr6 said:


> Oh, and a nice shot of my SC600 HI posted earlier in the thread to help you buy it



..."to help you buy it" he says...that is probably the most evil thing you've ever said to someone. Great shot, and yes, I must own one now.


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## Outdoorsman5

I just noticed the voltage range on zebra's website: 2.7v - 6v. This thing can take 2 CR123a's?? That's a first, and would be great for really cold conditions using lithium batteries as opposed to lithium-ion. NICE!


----------



## snowlover91

Outdoorsman5 said:


> I just noticed the voltage range on zebra's website: 2.7v - 6v. This thing can take 2 CR123a's?? That's a first, and would be great for really cold conditions using lithium batteries as opposed to lithium-ion. NICE!



Even though the voltage would support them it unfortunately wouldn't work. The light uses small pogo pins rather than springs so two cr123 would be too short in the light. Unprotected 18650 are all it can use but they work well. The throw on this light really is pretty good for the size, not nearly what the Nitecore MH20gt has but it makes up for it with a better UI, tint, and overall quality imo. It actually surprised me how well this light throws, if Mark and I keep talking soon enough you'll have one at your front door lol.


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## JWRitchie76

Anyone have an idea what the current wait time is if you order from the Zebralight web site?


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## wolfgaze

JWRitchie76 said:


> Anyone have an idea what the current wait time is if you order from the Zebralight web site?



Use the 'Contact Us' link on their website and email the Sales Department for availability. You should receive a timely response with an estimate as to the lead time...


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## sigsegv

On 6/14, I was told by the sales department that lead time is currently 5 - 10 days.


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## markr6

Not sure about the lead time on the HI, though. It's been on backorder FOREVER.


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## Outdoorsman5

snowlover91 said:


> Even though the voltage would support them it unfortunately wouldn't work. The light uses small pogo pins rather than springs so two cr123 would be too short in the light. Unprotected 18650 are all it can use but they work well. The throw on this light really is pretty good for the size, not nearly what the Nitecore MH20gt has but it makes up for it with a better UI, tint, and overall quality imo. It actually surprised me how well this light throws, if Mark and I keep talking soon enough you'll have one at your front door lol.



Dang...thought I was on to something. Seems strange they'd have the voltage range up to 6v but not fit 2 CR123's. 

Well I thought long & hard (about 3 seconds) and decided I will buy both lights. Thanks for all the input Snowlover & Markr!!


----------



## Lumencrazy

Outdoorsman5 said:


> Dang...thought I was on to something. Seems strange they'd have the voltage range up to 6v but not fit 2 CR123's.
> 
> Well I thought long & hard (about 3 seconds) and decided I will buy both lights. Thanks for all the input Snowlover & Markr!!



Its not just about voltage. CR123’s will not support the current requirements.


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## JWRitchie76

Thanks for the info about contacting them. One more question for you guys, how big is the difference between the HI and non-HI SC600W MK III? I get that the HI version will throw better but how much better? Can anyone quantify or explain what the difference in real world use might be for me? Thanks!


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## pse

+1. Can anyone having SC5 comapre it to the SC600mk3 Hi and normal version in terms of beam? The runtime is of course higher on the SC600. Thanks


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## markr6

What's that Russian site where the guy compares (what seems like) every light known to man? He needs to stock up on all the Zebralights and go at it!


----------



## recDNA

JWRitchie76 said:


> Thanks for the info about contacting them. One more question for you guys, how big is the difference between the HI and non-HI SC600W MK III? I get that the HI version will throw better but how much better? Can anyone quantify or explain what the difference in real world use might be for me? Thanks!


Do you ever have a need to see objects 100 yards away in the dark? You will see them more clearly with HI version. It is entirely possible you never use a flashlight for distances greater than 10 yards. I seldom do. If that is the case the only advantage is a different beam profile. If you like a more defined hotspot you may prefer the HI. In my case the regular would be all I would need 95% of the time but they are too big for me to pocket carry so neither are practical for me. The 62 or 63 would take care of any needs I might have. The more powerful versions would only be for fun. If you are a security person or leo or rancher or something you may need the additional output or throw.


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## PB Wilson

In addition to the request in the posts above, I'd like to know in layman's terms the practical difference between the purpose of the HI compared with what you think the purpose of the upcoming High CRI would be.

I'm trying to learn what it means when folks refer to specs with numbers but it would be great for someone to share how all those models differ to someone new to the details.

Also, Zebralight could possibly sell more lights if they had a FAQ that broke down what they are aiming for when they release a new model. After speaking with James at Zebralight, he steered me toward the headlamp that would fit my needs best (and after a few weeks of use, I think he nailed it!). It would be great to have that resource from them.


----------



## JWRitchie76

100 yds would be a max distance for me. 50 to 75 is more realistic but only sometimes. If I got one of these it would not be an edc for me either. Way too bulky. I have a high CRI Ti D25C and Ti Maratac AAA I am happy with for edc. This would be my utility do it all light. For around the house or traveling backup. Right now I have a SC32W and a Nailbender XP-L HI drop-in filling the utility role. It would be nice to streamline and consolidate. I'm not one of those people that has to have 1000 options. Sounds like the non-HI would probably be just fine for me. The HI would just be for some added fun.


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## markr6

SC63w - decent size EDC, floody
SC600 HI - some would EDC this. Not me, but certainly possible. More of a specific use light due to the throw (hiking, kayaking, or where you may need some extra reach)

One hell of a nice combo there!


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## snowlover91

The MK3 HI will easily illuminate objects at 100+ yards with no problem. Has an excellent balance between throw and spill as well. It is small enough I could easily EDC the light if needed but my SC5w or SC63w typically are used for that task instead since I rarely need the throw. When I do or will be outdoors the MK3 HI is the first light I'll grab.


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## pse

Could you please do some camparable beamshots with all the mentioned lights?


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## CoherentRays

markr6 said:


> What's that Russian site where the guy compares (what seems like) every light known to man? He needs to stock up on all the Zebralights and go at it!


I would second that request. I used to look at that site frequently but don't have it bookmarked and can't remember how to get to it now. He did a great job of showing throw and beam spread in that underground parking garage or whatever it was that he used for his comparisons. 

Ed


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## kj2

mean this one?: http://fonarik.com/test/indexen.php


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## CoherentRays

kj2 said:


> mean this one?: http://fonarik.com/test/indexen.php


 BINGO!! Thank you so much. That's it.

Ed


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## tops2

PB Wilson said:


> In addition to the request in the posts above, I'd like to know in layman's terms the practical difference between the purpose of the HI compared with what you think the purpose of the upcoming High CRI would be.
> 
> I'm trying to learn what it means when folks refer to specs with numbers but it would be great for someone to share how all those models differ to someone new to the details.
> 
> Also, Zebralight could possibly sell more lights if they had a FAQ that broke down what they are aiming for when they release a new model. After speaking with James at Zebralight, he steered me toward the headlamp that would fit my needs best (and after a few weeks of use, I think he nailed it!). It would be great to have that resource from them.




I'm far from technical..but for me, the high CRI version is mostly for the nice "colors" on things that I shine a flashlight on. Low CRI lights seems to make things look washed out or gives it a different tint (blueish, greenish, purplish, etc...) and the colors of items doesn't look like how it does during the daytime (or in sunlight). It would be nice if all lights have high CRI, but its not the case.

The HI version to me is mostly maximizing for looking at thing far far away. From what I gather, there's enough lights that's either for use at closer distance (more floody and/or more spill but you can't see far far away) or for far distance (where you get a small lit up "cone" and may have "tunnel vision" but you can see far away). There are some lights that sounds to throw far while having good wider beam so you don't get that "tunnel" vision.


These 2 things seems to be 2 different considerations for me.

Personally, after trying out high CRI lights, I don't have much real desire to get something that doesn't have high CRI. And like some here, I generally don't have much use for lights for long distance so I'm not as interested in "HI" lights or lights with long throw. After buying a few different lights, my preference lean toward floody lights that throws ok to me. On the flipside, I don't want a pure floody light as it may light up nicely in a close distance and you can't see out at a moderate distance.

The upcoming high CRI ("Plus") version according to the spreadsheet look to be a winner (on paper) to me. I'm hoping for good CRI that can throw moderately far enough (at least as far as my Zebralight SC5w), much brighter, and have good runtimes (when at same brightness as the SC5w). The main unknown for me is since its a "F" (floody) version, I'm not sure how little throw this light may get...


Hopefully I was clear enough and didn't make anything more confusing!


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## Bdm82

PB Wilson said:


> In addition to the request in the posts above, I'd like to know in layman's terms the practical difference between the purpose of the HI compared with what you think the purpose of the upcoming High CRI would be.
> 
> I'm trying to learn what it means when folks refer to specs with numbers but it would be great for someone to share how all those models differ to someone new to the details.
> 
> Also, Zebralight could possibly sell more lights if they had a FAQ that broke down what they are aiming for when they release a new model. After speaking with James at Zebralight, he steered me toward the headlamp that would fit my needs best (and after a few weeks of use, I think he nailed it!). It would be great to have that resource from them.



I have the same complaint but about virtually every company's site. It is surprisingly difficult to tell what is big, what is small, what is flood or throw. You have to read the specs and look through the pictures (or at least look for the nuances like pocket clips) to tell. 

Take for example Nitecore's EC11 and EA41. They could not be more different in size as one uses a 123 and the other uses 4 AA. But in the thumbnail pics they look the same. The lumen count is similar. They're both grouped as Explorer series. But.... wildly different. Fenix and others have the same Web faults. 

Though of you loiter here and on their websites long enough....


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## wolfgaze

PB Wilson said:


> I'm trying to learn what it means when folks refer to specs with numbers but it would be great for someone to share how all those models differ to someone new to the details.
> 
> Also, Zebralight could possibly sell more lights if they had a FAQ that broke down what they are aiming for when they release a new model. After speaking with James at Zebralight, he steered me toward the headlamp that would fit my needs best (and after a few weeks of use, I think he nailed it!). It would be great to have that resource from them.



Here are a couple of FAQs/Guides which may have some helpful content:

http://www.nitecorelights.com/pages/beam-color-warm-vs-cool

http://www.hdssystems.com/Content/LightFaq/


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## scs

snowlover91 said:


> The MK3 HI will easily illuminate objects at 100+ yards with no problem. ....



More info for reference: it's measured at 18,320 CD here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGuSiwIoOU0&list=PLnvoiYjH3UgGEBSE0orNFjFzywpmNxOzN&index=31

On paper that means only 2 lux or 2 lumens per square meter on target out at 100 yards (91.4 meters).


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## PB Wilson

Thanks for the assistance. So much to take in, but the HI seems it might be a good addition to my flashlight rotation. I recently bought an H600Fd with a nice warm and floody beam. A contrasting beam that can see farther and is a bit cooler seems to be a good companion when necessary.

Gotta save those pennies...


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## TheRealSpinner

So, I took some comparison pics last night and the night before. Here's what I got.

SC63w on M1, aimed about 15 ft. ahead of me.




SC600w III HI on M1, aimed about 15 ft. ahead of me.




------

SC63w on M1. The door in the background is 25 paces away.




SC600w III HI on M1. The door in the background is 25 paces away.




SC63w + SC600w III HI on M1, aimed at the same spot. The door in the background is 25 paces away.




------

SC63w on H1. The door in the background is 25 paces away.




SC600w III HI on H1. The door in the background is 25 paces away.




SC63w + SC600w III HI, on H1, aimed at the same spot. The door in the background is 25 paces away.






So, I find myself using SC63w on M1 the most. Then, if I need BRIGHT light FAST, I turn the SC600w III HI on H1. If i just need a little bit extra light, I turn it onto M1, instead. I'm still interested in the SC600Fd, as well as the plus that is supposed to come out in a few months.


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## PB Wilson

Really nice comparison/paired shots! Thanks for posting them.


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## tops2

@TheRealSpinner: No!!! Why did you have to post such nice comparison shots! I was already settled on not getting the SC63w and pick only one between the SC600 MKIII HI or the Plus. With those shots, I might be "forced" to eventually pick up a SC63w (since I like slightly floodier beam).

But joking aside, the HI looks like it has a nice tint based on your pictures (and others comments). Its not too yellow vs the SC63w (which after seeing different pictures still looks too "dirty" yellow to me). It does look like the HI version would greatly complement my SC5w.


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## jonnyfgroove

For those wondering about how long it takes to get one of these - I ordered (back ordered) one on 6-9 and I just received a shipping notice a few minutes ago.


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## wolfgaze

I was wondering if the SC600w MK3 HI and SC5w would have roughly the same tint being is that they both have a color temperature listed at 4500K, even though they are utilizing different emitters?


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## markr6

wolfgaze said:


> I was wondering if the SC600w MK3 HI and SC5w would have roughly the same tint being is that they both have a color temperature listed at 4500K, even though they are utilizing different emitters?



The SC5w OP I had was SO nice and white I could have passed it as a Nichia 219. My MK III HI is much warmer, but not too much yellow. Totally different, but that was just my sample.


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## CoherentRays

jonnyfgroove said:


> For those wondering about how long it takes to get one of these - I ordered (back ordered) one on 6-9 and I just received a shipping notice a few minutes ago.


I ordered mine on 6-7 while the site was showing status of backorder. I got my shipping notice 3 or 4 hours ago and I notice the site still says backorder. 

I guess the lesson is if you want one just put your order in and be patient, they will come through.  

Ed


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## cmd

They are showing in stock this morning, couldn't help myself. SC600 MK III HI incoming.


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## PragmaticMurphyist

Must... resist...


----------



## TCY

Thanks for posting the beam shot comparisons. Resisting the HI version now becomes even harder.


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## markr6

cmd said:


> They are showing in stock this morning, couldn't help myself. SC600 MK III HI incoming.



:rock:

Do I need a second? No, but it's that good. Resisting the urge!


----------



## JWRitchie76

cmd said:


> They are showing in stock this morning, couldn't help myself. SC600 MK III HI incoming.



Boom! Thanks for the heads up!!! Got one coming too!


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## cmd

Shipping confirmed from TX - that was fast.


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## wolfgaze

How would you describe the hotspot on the MK3 HI - is it diffused and does it blend well with the spill? 

Also, has anyone ever posted a good quality outdoor shot of the light being used in the Medium (61 lumens) setting? Or could someone perhaps post a photo? (no offense RealSpinner but some of the photos you posted seem to be of less than ideal/optimal quality)

Right now I'm on the fence as to just order the MK3 HI or wait and go with the MK3 PLUS... I don't have a good thrower in my collection and I do like warmer 4500k temperature range - although I am also interested in higher CRI beam profiles... A bit torn at the moment (and no I don't want to order both, lol)...


----------



## CelticCross74

uh oh! Its time to play Zebralight roulette again! Will they be in stock or wont they? Will X model come out when they said it would or wont it? Did they update their site accordingly or is it 3 months overdue? Doesnt matter really the product is so good its worth it. As for the hot spot on the HI it is big and a touch diffuse around the edge it is not super thrower defined. Overall beam profile is incredibly wide in diameter for such a small light. Max output is stunning. As for EDC it is one of my few very small lights.


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## PB Wilson

I saw that it was in stock earlier today and finally got around to ordering one after work only to find it was on backorder.:thumbsdow

I still ordered it though. It'll be a nice surprise when it arrives!


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## wolfgaze

PB Wilson said:


> I saw that it was in stock earlier today and finally got around to ordering one after work only to find it was on backorder.:thumbsdow
> 
> I still ordered it though. It'll be a nice surprise when it arrives!



I had just loaded up the item page about 45 minutes ago and it was showing *In Stock*... Perhaps your order will be fulfilled sooner than expected....


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## JWRitchie76

cmd said:


> Shipping confirmed from TX - that was fast.



Man, nothing for me yet? Hopefully there wasn't like one.


----------



## tsask

cmd said:


> They are showing in stock this morning, couldn't help myself. SC600 MK III HI incoming.



I've been watching this thread for a while and have grown to really admire that SC600 MK III, then I saw the mention of the HI version so I didn't make the move until the HI version was available.

I was hoping NOT to but another $100 light for a while (after two Klarus purchases: FH 10 & RS 30) yet that ZL could be just the 'mini' thrower with great tint that Ive always wanted!

WARNING ! WALLET ABOUT TO GET ZAPPED!:laughing:


----------



## twistedraven

Aaaaand it's gone.

So what makes the HI version have way better tint than the regular domed version?


----------



## JWRitchie76

twistedraven said:


> Aaaaand it's gone.
> 
> So what makes the HI version have way better tint than the regular domed version?



The million dollar question! Maybe because it has "HI" in its name? :shrug:


----------



## SG Hall

Dedomed or no dome LEDs are always warmer tint than the equivalent domed LED (ie, if you dedome a domed led it gets warmer tint). Someone can explain the refraction of light if they want, but that's how it works in practise.


----------



## twistedraven

Correlated color temperature describes how warm or cool the led is, while tint refers to green/magenta color shifts (or any other aberrations for that matter). I'm just wondering what a lack of dome does that makes the tint better.'

I only have one XPL-HI light, and its tint is very uniform from spot to spill, even though it's relatively greenish blue overall if compared to other HI CRI neutral lights. On its own it is very satisfying, though. Other lights with domes (even hi cri ones) show tint shifts from spot to spill.


----------



## Fireclaw18

SG Hall said:


> Dedomed or no dome LEDs are always warmer tint than the equivalent domed LED (ie, if you dedome a domed led it gets warmer tint). Someone can explain the refraction of light if they want, but that's how it works in practise.




Correct... but only for after-market amateur dedomes.

Factory domeless LEDs like CREE's XPL HI and XHP35 HI have applications of phosphor optimized for their lack of dome. The result is a tint range every bit as good as LEDs with full domes. Cool white XPL HI LEDs are available with excellent cool tint ... far better than can be achieved by even the best amateur dedome.

For some odd reason the XHP35 HI used in the SC600w III HI has a much better tint than the XHP used in the SC63w. I suspect this is simply due to the binning for the various batches of LEDs they purchased and not due to the HI's lack of dome.


----------



## SG Hall

We talk about neutral, cool or warm tints all the time, so I see the terms as synonymous in a practical sense ( green is normally noted ). Check this thread below, perhaps it may provide an answer. 


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?368421-Why-does-de-doming-cause-a-warm-tint-shift


----------



## SG Hall

Missed your reply Fireclaw18, but fair enough. My impression is that factory domeless is lower in output than a dedome. I know that Vinh dedomes his own for a reason.


----------



## HighlanderNorth

I'm a bit confused about the SC600 mkIII "throw" version. First off, are all MkIII's going to throw better, or is it just the HI(or as I will call it, the Hawaii version of the LED). 
Next, usually you get more throw by either increasing the diameter of the reflector, reducing the diameter of the emitter, or deepening the reflector, or a combination of the last 2 options more often than not(from my experience). I own the XM-L U2 version of the SC600(Mk1 I guess). So I just looked up the MkIII, and clicked on Google images, and I saw a picture that includes all 3 Mk's of the SC600 side by side. I was surprised to see that each new version has gotten shorter, with the throwy MkIII being the shortest. That kinda goes against my ^^ description of how to increase throw, in at least 1 way. 

So, is there a good improvement in throw over the earlier mk's, and how were they able to decrease the length in an already fairly short 18650 light like the SC600 Mk1?


----------



## luxxlightsaber

I have both versions and I like the mkiii dome on the beam is just perfect, but the tint on the HI version is awsome that's why I bought one of each.


----------



## tsask

I appreciate the info here about the cells that this light needs.
To those folks who know may I ask will this cell be ok? 
*Tenergy 30005 ICR 18650 2600mAh 3.7V Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) Unprotected Rechargeable Battery?
**
(65.1 mm size)

or from the ZL site: Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Battery?
*

THANKS!


----------



## recDNA

Sanyo GA


----------



## oKtosiTe

tsask said:


> I appreciate the info here about the cells that this light needs.
> To those folks who know may I ask will this cell be ok?
> *Tenergy 30005 ICR 18650 2600mAh 3.7V Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) Unprotected Rechargeable Battery?
> **
> (65.1 mm size)
> 
> or from the ZL site:Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Battery?
> *
> 
> THANKS!


While that 2600mAh cell might fit length-wise, its thickness and the relatively high current draw of the light may make it unusable or at least less suitable than the recommended Sanyo NCR18650GA. The LG INR18650-MJ1 (3500mAh) also works great.
If you're going to put down $100 for a light, don't skimp on the battery. Even the recommended cells can be had for $5-$6 a piece.


----------



## tsask

oKtosiTe said:


> While that 2600mAh cell might fit length-wise, its thickness and the relatively high current draw of the light may make it unusable or at least less suitable than the recommended Sanyo NCR18650GA. The LG INR18650-MJ1 (3500mAh) also works great.
> If you're going to put down $100 for a light, don't skimp on the battery. Even the recommended cells can be had for $5-$6 a piece.



Thank you very much!!! This information is most helpful. I 100% agree that a $100 light is not the place to use cheap batteries/cells.

_Tack igen för din användbar information!_


----------



## david57strat

thedraperyfalls said:


> Hi guys, I just bought the SC600 MKlll and it's an amazing light. I hope to find the time to do a short review soon.
> 
> I love everything except for the clip. It's functional but I think it can be better.
> Are there any alternative clips, custom or otherwise, that will fit the SC600 MKlll?
> 
> Thank you in advance!



I feel exactly the same way about the clip. It doesn't inspire much confidence. I'm used to the clips on some of my Eagletac lights, which were so solid, you practically had to tear the light out of your pocket. There was _zero _chance of any light getting lost, because of those clips lol. Those clips were locked in by a retaining ring, and the only way to remove them was to first remove the tail cap switch, then unscrew the retaining ring. Very solid, and super grippy. 

The Zebralight clips are too smooth, so a light can be easily dislodged from a pocket, if bumped the right way, without the user even knowing it. I'm constantly checking my pocket to make sure the light is there, ever since I lost my SC62w (which, I believe, was because of the flimsy clip).

Otherwise, the SC600w Mk III (beautiful tint!) is a perfect light, and I absolutely love it! I have yet to pick up the Hi version, but I'm not sure it'll be advantageous enough for me (since I mostly use it for close range work), to make the additional investment.

We'll see.

If it comes on sale (if they come out with a newer version...more than likely, at some point), I won't be able to resist.

Such is the life of a hardcore flashaholic...not that I'm complaining.


----------



## david57strat

oKtosiTe said:


> While that 2600mAh cell might fit length-wise, its thickness and the relatively high current draw of the light may make it unusable or at least less suitable than the recommended Sanyo NCR18650GA. The LG INR18650-MJ1 (3500mAh) also works great.
> If you're going to put down $100 for a light, don't skimp on the battery. Even the recommended cells can be had for $5-$6 a piece.



+1 on the MJ1 batteries. They work beautifully, in this light.


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

PragmaticMurphyist said:


> Must... resist...



<sigh> Couldn't resist. Back in stock, order placed, credit card crying quietly in corner...!


----------



## PB Wilson

Mine is arriving today. I'm really grateful for this forum and the reviews on this particular light.:wave:

I feel like I'm making a great decision instead of going through a long and expensive learning curve like I did with cycling, knives, camping gear, woodworking tools...


----------



## Fireclaw18

SG Hall said:


> Missed your reply Fireclaw18, but fair enough. My impression is that factory domeless is lower in output than a dedome. I know that Vinh dedomes his own for a reason.



Yes, at least for XPL, a dedomed XPL tends to be very slightly higher output than an XPL HI. Presumably the same would also apply to XHP35, though I'm unaware of anyone attempting to dedome one. 

However, at least for XPL and XPL HI:


The difference in lumens is small enough to be visually unnoticeable to the naked eye (less than 10%)
The difference in tint is enormous and instantly noticeable. A good XPL HI's tint is a thousand times better than even the very best amateur dedome. It's almost like night and day. No green at all in the XPL HI.

I'm not sure Vinh dedomes XPL anymore. Seems to be no need with XPL HI around. I think he mainly dedomes XPG2. Dedomed old version XPG2s still have the best throw and there isn't a HI version of XPG2 available.


----------



## Fireclaw18

tsask said:


> Thank you very much!!! This information is most helpful. I 100% agree that a $100 light is not the place to use cheap batteries/cells.
> 
> _Tack igen för din användbar information!_



Actually, given how dangerous li-ion cells can be I recommend ALWAYS using high-quality li-ion cells from a reputable source (like Mountain Electronics). Even in your cheapie $10 budget lights.


----------



## PB Wilson

I just unboxed my HI and didn't realize how small it really was. I'll be carrying this around for sure. Now all I have to do is wait until dark. 

C'MON NIGHT! GET HERE!!!

I really want to see it side by side with my H600Fw MKIII. I absolutely love the floody projection in my yard and on the trails. I'm hoping the HI will cut through the glow and help me point out things at the outer edge. I can imagine these being a nice combination for cycling at night. The headlamp casting a nice glow and the HI pointing out things up the trail a bit.


----------



## jonnyfgroove

PB Wilson said:


> I just unboxed my HI and didn't realize how small it really was. I'll be carrying this around for sure. Now all I have to do is wait until dark.
> 
> C'MON NIGHT! GET HERE!!!
> 
> I really want to see it side by side with my H600Fw MKIII. I absolutely love the floody projection in my yard and on the trails. I'm hoping the HI will cut through the glow and help me point out things at the outer edge. I can imagine these being a nice combination for cycling at night. The headlamp casting a nice glow and the HI pointing out things up the trail a bit.



I too was surprised how small the light is in hand. I was expecting it to be about the size of a 3p, but it is even smaller. 

You're in for a treat once the sun goes down. I don't know if it's the emitter or the ingenious reflector design or both, but the combo of spot and very wide spill on this thing is just incredible.


----------



## PB Wilson

I just got inside after walking the dogs and testing out my new light. You are so right jonnyfgroove, the spill is generous and the largish spot really illuminates objects as far as my eyes can focus (and even farther). It's a wonderful combination and I'm gonna get a lot of use out of this one.

Before talking with a rep at Zebralight, I hadn't thought much about tint. I could see differences between beam shots on this forum, but I never thought it would make much difference. My other cool tinted lights just don't look quite as nice though compared with my two Zebralights. After A/Bing my H600Fd and my new HI, I find that they both have a warmth to them that I really enjoy. The plants look defined and vivid and the HI can still punch through and illuminate the tallest trees in the area. I think that I've won the flashlight lottery with my last two purchases.

My son also wins as he gets to get his grubby mitts on my 4Sevens Quark AA2 Turbo, my Fenix P2D and my Fenix TK40! Lucky kiddo!


----------



## Johnno

Been awhile since my last Zebralight (a SC62w a little over a year ago). Heard good things about the SC600w Mk III HI, so... chalk up another screaming wallet. Nice that they are actually in stock as well for a change!


----------



## snowlover91

PB Wilson said:


> I just got inside after walking the dogs and testing out my new light. You are so right jonnyfgroove, the spill is generous and the largish spot really illuminates objects as far as my eyes can focus (and even farther). It's a wonderful combination and I'm gonna get a lot of use out of this one.
> 
> Before talking with a rep at Zebralight, I hadn't thought much about tint. I could see differences between beam shots on this forum, but I never thought it would make much difference. My other cool tinted lights just don't look quite as nice though compared with my two Zebralights. After A/Bing my H600Fd and my new HI, I find that they both have a warmth to them that I really enjoy. The plants look defined and vivid and the HI can still punch through and illuminate the tallest trees in the area. I think that I've won the flashlight lottery with my last two purchases.
> 
> My son also wins as he gets to get his grubby mitts on my 4Sevens Quark AA2 Turbo, my Fenix P2D and my Fenix TK40! Lucky kiddo!



Welcome to the Zebralight addiction, it only gets worse from here  Amazing how a light so small can put out so much light and balance it out with a good combination of spill/throw. The warmer tint and higher CRI definitely make a difference and I have a difficult time even using any of my old cool white lights from other companies anymore. The UI is also one of the best imo which is why I've been slowly getting rid of my other lights I don't use and buying more Zebralights


----------



## tsask

Fireclaw18 said:


> Actually, given how dangerous li-ion cells can be I recommend ALWAYS using high-quality li-ion cells from a reputable source (like Mountain Electronics). Even in your cheapie $10 budget lights.




Agreed 100%, of course!


----------



## markr6

snowlover91 said:


> The UI is also one of the best imo which is why I've been slowly getting rid of my other lights I don't use and buying more Zebralights



Same here. But I'm insane so I keep tying different brands/models. I don't know why. They ALWAYS take a back seat to the Zebralight UI. I would have a big sell-down here soon, but they're <$40 lights that wouldn't be worth selling.


----------



## JWRitchie76

Just got mine in today and my first impression is very favorable. Like many have said, the size of this thing is surprising. I guess you can read that a million times but really, pictures are worth a thousand words. Here is mine up next to some kinda common edc and utility stuff. Can't wait for dark tonight! 

L - R; SAK Alox Cadet, EAGTAC Ti D25C, CRK Small Sebenza, ZL SC600W MKIII HI, Streamlight ProTac 2L, Surefire G2X


----------



## twistedraven

So yeah, I ordered one. We'll see if it passes my picky tastes.


----------



## snowlover91

Nice pics JRW, how does it compare to your other lights? Do you plan to EDC it? What are your thoughts on the tint and beam pattern? 

Twistedraven, best of luck and look forward to reading your impressions of it!


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

Shipping notice received today, but it's on a slow boat (or plane) from China so I won't hold my breath. No worries.

Nothing yet on the 18650s I ordered from NKON at the same time. Haven't used them before, but I'm trying not to fret...


----------



## oKtosiTe

PragmaticMurphyist said:


> Shipping notice received today, but it's on a slow boat (or plane) from China so I won't hold my breath. No worries.
> 
> Nothing yet on the 18650s I ordered from NKON at the same time. Haven't used them before, but I'm trying not to fret...


I've had good experiences with NKON. E-mail responses can be a bit curt, but I always ended up receiving the products I wanted in a timely fashion. I suppose it can depend a lot on where you are located though.

Since you're a Murphyist, though, it'll probably get stuck or lost in transit. :laughing:


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

Prepare for the worst (and be pleasantly surprised whenever it doesn't happen!), that's me!


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

I queried the lack of comms from Nkon. Perhaps it would have helped if I hadn't mistyped my email address on the order...! <facepalm> <headdesk> 

Quick and friendly response from them (despite my stupidity) and the cells have already shipped!


----------



## JWRitchie76

snowlover91 said:


> Nice pics JRW, how does it compare to your other lights? Do you plan to EDC it? What are your thoughts on the tint and beam pattern?
> 
> Twistedraven, best of luck and look forward to reading your impressions of it!



I will most likely not edc it. I prefer smaller and prettier lights for that task. It will be my around the farm and traveling utility light. The beam is great, tint is pleasant. It has more spill than I expected, a little less throw than I expected. Overall when you hit that button to call for 1100 lumens it'll make you smile coming from a light this small.


----------



## sdr

After being pleasantly surprised to find the Mk III HI in stock very early on Wednesday morning I impulsively pulled the trigger on my 5th SC600 variant. I have EDC'd an SC600 daily for the past 5 years, going back to the original 750 lumen model. After that came a cool white Mk II L2 which I promptly proceeded to leave on the seat of a city bus. So then I ordered a neutral Mk II L2. And shortly after that I jumped onto the Mk III bandwagon and grabbed a cool white version. Well, only 2 days after ordering the High Intensity XHP35 MK III from the good folks at ZebraLight I had their latest fist load of luminary excellence in my hot little hand. (2 Day Priority Shipping)

I was really on the fence with this one. That's probably why I didn't order one until now. I figured, what the heck, I already had a Mk III. How much better could this High Intensity version be? Especially when it would only be cranking out 1126 lumens compared to the 1300 I had with the cool white Mk III version.

I'm happy to say that the answer to all of my questions and any qualms I may have had were answered and put to rest last night. Here's a little collage I put together yesterday while I was waiting for dark so that I could take the new kid out for a test drive...






*One word: Amazing!
*
I'm blown away by just how nice this latest offering from ZebraLight really is. Is it a real "Thrower?" Well, I have an ArmyTek Predator that would make the argument that this HI XHP35 isn't really a thrower. But I don't EDC my ArmyTek. I will EDC this Mk III HI. The tint on this one I got is beautiful. It's like my SC600w Mk II L2 with a concentrated hotspot. It really does have all the throw just about anyone would need in normal civilian circumstances. And compared to my cool white Mk III it definitely throws a relatively compact hotspot significantly farther. I was hoping to get some beamshots for comparison last night, but everywhere I went was all lit up in preparation for the 4th of July festivities this weekend. I'll be working on getting some shots up so y'all can see the difference between the regular Mk III and the HI version in the next few days. 

If you've been thinking about getting one? Trust me when I tell you...GET ONE...THEY'RE AMAZING!

Here's another teaser shot...





*
Get One...You'll be glad you did! I know I am!*


----------



## wolfgaze

Looking forward to your beamshots... Glad you're enjoying your new light... If I may make one small request regarding your beamshots, if you could remember to take a photo of your light in the Medium (M1) mode, which I recall is something like 61 lumens.... Thanks!


----------



## roger-roger

Very tempted to order, now that it's in stock. Otoh I have my SC600w MKIII listed at another site, so I'll probably wait till that moves first. The decision was between the SC63w or the HI, but decided to hang on to my SC62w and go with the latter.


----------



## twistedraven

The nice thing about living in Texas is that when you order from Zebralight it comes in 2 days later.

So, first impressions of the HI are positive. I prefer its tint and beam pattern to my SC600 MK3 (5700k version). The loss in output really isn't noticeable, because your eye is drawn towards the more focused hotspot. Whereas the hotspot of the regular version starts getting washed out relatively early, the hotspot of the HI remains slightly more defined, and is in my opinion, a more all-arounder pattern.

The hotspot is smaller compared to the SC600 MK3, with a small and slightly messy corona, and a healthy amount of spill. The hotspot doesn't have the weird 'hotspot within a hotspot' artifact that my Armytek Predator Limited Edition does.

Tint I would describe as sepia-toned, so slightly golden. It's not yellow or pinkish, and it's not warm enough to be reddish. If you shine it on a white piece of paper, the paper looks like it has the effect of being aged and sepia'd (with daylight ambient lighting). I prefer this to the 5700k SC600 MK3, which has slight green-purple tint shift from corona to spill. The lack of tint shift on the HI is as good as my Nichia 219B light. I definitely wouldn't call it a neutral white, as it does have the golden sepia tone to it-- the 219B at 4500k likes whiter in comparison, and the 5400k hotspot of the 219BT-V1 looks pure in comparison (again, daylight ambient lighting.) I'd say the actual CCT of this light is closer to 4200-4300k than 4500k.

Some interesting notes: the orange peel reflector on the HI has less aggressive dimpling compared to the regular SC600. The anti-reflective coating on the lens is purple-leaning towards maroon, while the ar coating on the regular is purple-leaning towards lavender. The HI seems to heat up slightly faster than the cool white regular version. The lumen output is undoubtedly less because of warmer cct, but Zebralight might be pushing the light a slight more to make up for the loss of lumens caused by the flat dome.


----------



## KITROBASKIN

This was the post I was waiting for. Many Thanks



twistedraven said:


> The nice thing about living in Texas is that when you order from Zebralight it comes in 2 days later.
> 
> So, first impressions of the HI are positive. I prefer its tint and beam pattern to my SC600 MK3 (5700k version). The loss in output really isn't noticeable, because your eye is drawn towards the more focused hotspot. Whereas the hotspot of the regular version starts getting washed out relatively early, the hotspot of the HI remains slightly more defined, and is in my opinion, a more all-arounder pattern.
> 
> The hotspot is smaller compared to the SC600 MK3, with a small and slightly messy corona, and a healthy amount of spill. The hotspot doesn't have the weird 'hotspot within a hotspot' artifact that my Armytek Predator Limited Edition does.
> 
> Tint I would describe as sepia-toned, so slightly golden. It's not yellow or pinkish, and it's not warm enough to be reddish. If you shine it on a white piece of paper, the paper looks like it has the effect of being aged and sepia'd (with daylight ambient lighting). I prefer this to the 5700k SC600 MK3, which has slight green-purple tint shift from corona to spill. The lack of tint shift on the HI is as good as my Nichia 219B light. I definitely wouldn't call it a neutral white, as it does have the golden sepia tone to it-- the 219B at 4500k likes whiter in comparison, and the 5400k hotspot of the 219BT-V1 looks pure in comparison (again, daylight ambient lighting.) I'd say the actual CCT of this light is closer to 4200-4300k than 4500k.
> 
> Some interesting notes: the orange peel reflector on the HI has less aggressive dimpling compared to the regular SC600. The anti-reflective coating on the lens is purple-leaning towards maroon, while the ar coating on the regular is purple-leaning towards lavender. The HI seems to heat up slightly faster than the cool white regular version. The lumen output is undoubtedly less because of warmer cct, but Zebralight might be pushing the light a slight more to make up for the loss of lumens caused by the flat dome.


----------



## CelticCross74

20 years of light collecting on...the ZL SC600 MkIII HI is one of the best and baddest lights I have ever bought. Quality everywhere. A tint I can only describe as golden. The profile is amazingly wide for such a small reflector. Defined hot spot but not so defined it gives you tunnel vision. The spill is bright and very usable. It quite honestly makes my NW MkII look dim. There is indeed a higher than average glare coat on the lens but to me not high enough(Like Armyteks hard coat based AR). I love how ZL design has managed to do so darn much with such a small light. Love that this instant classic of a light uses cheap non protected flat top GA's


----------



## Husker

Haven't read the entire thread (Yet!)...Went to the Zebra Site, is this the Version (SC600w Mk III HI 18650) that is considered the one to get?

Are the batteries they offer PanasonicSanyo-NCR18650GA-3500mAh-10A-18650 recommended by CP members or is there something better I should order?


----------



## twistedraven

Husker said:


> Haven't read the entire thread (Yet!)...Went to the Zebra Site, is this the Version (SC600w Mk III HI 18650) that is considered the one to get?
> 
> Are the batteries they offer PanasonicSanyo-NCR18650GA-3500mAh-10A-18650 recommended by CP members or is there something better I should order?



Yes and yes.


----------



## BLUE LED

They don't have the HI version in the UK


----------



## twistedraven

One other thing I noticed-- which might contribute to the HI heating up slightly faster compared to the cool white-- is that it's slightly less heavy. It's really tough to tell, and visually they look very similar, but I do feel as if there's a little less mass there to soak up the heat. It could be slight variations in Zebralights production process, or it could be that they machined out the head a little bit differently for a different reflector.


----------



## Connor

According to ZebraLight they both weigh 66 grams.


----------



## jonnyfgroove

I just checked and my MK III HI is 63.8 grams.


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

BLUE LED said:


> They don't have the HI version in the UK



I've ordered direct from Zebralight, free shipping, currently in transit.


----------



## Husker

Will the *PanasonicSanyo-NCR18650GA-3500mAh-10A-18650* batteries be safe to charge in my XTAR VP1 Charger?

Found the answer...Yes.


----------



## drummer132132

Just to add my own 2 cents on this light it's an impressive light for its size. I find that I'm using it a lot throughout the house with whatever I need light for. It's very pocketable and tailstands very well. I find that M1 is perfect for when I need to ceiling bounce the light to illuminate a room for when power goes out and knowing that it would take days to fully deplete the battery at that level. It's more than enough to read/do whatever.


----------



## jonnyfgroove

Husker said:


> Will the *PanasonicSanyo-NCR18650GA-3500mAh-10A-18650* batteries be safe to charge in my XTAR VP1 Charger?



Absolutely. Just keep in mind that these are unprotected cells. The ZL has the circuitry built in to make sure the cell does not get over discharged, so no worries there. If you want to use the cells in lights that don't have this feature, you'll need to be careful not to over discharge them.


----------



## tex.proud

FYI...for those wondering about batteries


Yes, the ZL SC600 MKIII Hi does require shorter, unprotected, flat top, high drain cells. The light has protection against over-discharge, so you don't have to worry out it. As for your charger being able to handle them, I cannot say. I have simply found 3 cells that fit in, and function perfectly in this light.


Orbtronic 3500mAh 18650 High Drain Hybrid IMR Rechargeable Battery 3.7V


LG INR18650MJ1 18650 3500mAh High Discharge


Sanyo NCR18650GA 3.7V 3500mAh 10A High Power Cell


Not linking to where I purchased them because where I did so does not advertise here. Copy each battery into your search engine and good luck.







Tex.Proud


----------



## Husker

jonnyfgroove said:


> Absolutely. Just keep in mind that these are unprotected cells. The ZL has the circuitry built in to make sure the cell does not get over discharged, so no worries there. If you want to use the cells in lights that don't have this feature, you'll need to be careful not to over discharge them.





tex.proud said:


> FYI...for those wondering about batteries
> 
> 
> Yes, the ZL SC600 MKIII Hi does require shorter, unprotected, flat top, high drain cells. The light has protection against over-discharge, so you don't have to worry out it. As for your charger being able to handle them, I cannot say. I have simply found 3 cells that fit in, and function perfectly in this light.
> 
> 
> Orbtronic 3500mAh 18650 High Drain Hybrid IMR Rechargeable Battery 3.7V
> 
> 
> LG INR18650MJ1 18650 3500mAh High Discharge
> 
> 
> Sanyo NCR18650GA 3.7V 3500mAh 10A High Power Cell
> 
> 
> Not linking to where I purchased them because where I did so does not advertise here. Copy each battery into your search engine and good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tex.Proud



Thanks for the great info...I just ordered the light + Batteries.


----------



## CelticCross74

awesome info on the 3 cells. Even though I am a big Orbtronic fan I have noticed they use pretty thick wrap. Is the Orb a tighter fit in the light? Read HKJ's review of the LG. He says the cell gets hotter than the GA(I think that is the cell he compared it to)thus I bought a bunch of the bare GA's and have them spread across my lights that have the needed built in protections and so far so very good. I also noticed the bare GA cells charge fully from depletion faster than their protected counterparts....interesting.


----------



## tex.proud

The Orbtronic was the first cell that I ran in this light. It fits perfectly. I read somewhere that some folks were adding a wrap to their batteries because if you hit it against your palm or something, you heard the bettery tap the side of the tube. That's just obsessive to me. I didn't notice any difference in temperature from the LG holding it in hand for 15 minutes on H1 (something I did with all 3). Of course, I'm not scientifically testing the batteries. I simply know from experience with these cells in this light that all fit and function.

Didn't notice that about the GA. Good to know for when I'm traveling in the truck and using the cigarette lighter cord with my charger.

Tex.Proud


----------



## Cunha

How does the hot spot on the MK3 HI compare to the hot spot on an M61 with XPG2?

I really liked the beam on my MK2 zebralight with XML2

And I don't want a lot of focus like my Maelstrom G5 / mms 

So where on that spectrum does the MK3HI lay? Would I be better off with a normal MK3?


----------



## TheRealSpinner

Cunha, I can't comment on how they compare to other torches, but I have both the HI and the standard MK III. I like the standard version better for walking at night, and illuminating my path/sidewalk. The HI is too spotty. I luke more spill to illuminate my immediate surroundings. I just bought one for my dad, and one for my mother.

I keep the HI version to complement my SC63w since it is much floodier, and doesn't throw too far. The pair match up great!

The HI is pretty good for showing off, though. 😉


----------



## sdr

One thing I've done with all of my SC600's is put a "Pinkie Lanyard" on them just as soon as I get 'em. That's what I did with this latest acquisition, the Mk III High Intensity XHP35, as well. Initially I put an orange lanyard on it to distinguish it from my regular cool white Mk III which has an olive drab paracord & black bead lanyard on it. I have since switched to a black paracord & gold bead lanyard on the HI version. 

The Pinkie Lanyard secures the light to my little finger and that eliminates any chance of dropping it. Like I said, I have done that with all of my SC600's and it's a system that works well from a security standpoint and feels very ergonomically comfortable, too.

But for some reason the new HI version, despite sporting an identical lanyard - save for color and bead, wasn't feeling nearly as comfortable for some reason. With the lanyard on my little finger, the bead cinching it tightly, my thumb didn't seem to be falling right on top of the switch like it always had before. And that had me feeling puzzled. I kept thinking that it was just my imagination. I mean, why would it feel any different if the lanyards were constructed in an identical fashion, same size and shape? It had to be in my mind, right? 

Well, that would be true IF _everything_ was identical. So, following that logical line of reasoning, I had to ask myself another question: "If all of my lanyards were made the same, what if something about the flashlight was different?" Hmm?

That's when I started comparing all of my Zebralights. And, Voila! There was the fly in the ointment! The pea under the mattress! The reason that this new HI version felt different from all the rest - The good folks at ZebraLight moved that little nub that houses the lanyard ring approximately .25" to the left of where it had been positioned on all on my previous Zebralights relative to all of the other aspects on the physical anatomy of the flashlight. 

I apologize it that explanation sounds confusing. Perhaps some pictures would help?




Okay, here you can see from left to right - XHP HI - Mk III cool white - Mk II L2(w) neutral - SC600 Mk I Original cool white. Now let's turn these around and look at the other side...




Can you see the difference? These lights are all in the same order, they have just been rotated 180 degrees. The 3 lights on the right, despite their difference in size all maintain virtually the same aspects regarding the positioning of that little nub and its lanyard ring. But not so on the 4th, the one on the left - the Mk III HI. Therein lies the rub! That little nub was moved! And that's why it's feeling different, ergonomically speaking. 

On the 3 previous incarnations of the SC600, it was absolutely ergonomic perfection for me and my Pinkie Lanyard. Now, on this HI version, I can only vouch for near perfection - not for absolute perfection, as it was in the past. And, at least, now I can appreciate that there really is a physical reason it feels different and why I have to rotate the light ever so slightly to position my thumb on the switch. It wasn't all in my head, after all!

If you have the High Intensity Mk III and any other SC600 Please compare them and let me know what you find on yours. Is my HI just a fluke? Or are all of the HI's made with this subtle difference regarding that little nub that annoys many and others find useful? I would be curious to hear what you find.


----------



## defbear

@sdr, Where did you get those pinky lanyards? I assume you made them. Where did the Clasp joining the ends come from. I'm heading for Google.
Ok zipper pulls  Thank you for the photo inspiration!


----------



## sdr

defbear said:


> @sdr, Where did you get those pinky lanyards?



I make them myself. I put lanyards on all of my knives and have quite a bit of paracord as well as beads and cord closures. They're very easy to make! You can find all of the supplies you need online.


----------



## oKtosiTe

tex.proud said:


> I read somewhere that some folks were adding a wrap to their batteries because if you hit it against your palm or something, you heard the bettery tap the side of the tube. That's just obsessive to me.



I am one of those obsessive people. I added a reflective sticker with my e-mail address on it before wrapping with clear shrink-wrap for extra points.


----------



## Tachead

sdr said:


> One thing I've done with all of my SC600's is put a "Pinkie Lanyard" on them just as soon as I get 'em. That's what I did with this latest acquisition, the Mk III High Intensity XHP35, as well. Initially I put an orange lanyard on it to distinguish it from my regular cool white Mk III which has an olive drab paracord & black bead lanyard on it. I have since switched to a black paracord & gold bead lanyard on the HI version.
> 
> The Pinkie Lanyard secures the light to my little finger and that eliminates any chance of dropping it. Like I said, I have done that with all of my SC600's and it's a system that works well from a security standpoint and feels very ergonomically comfortable, too.
> 
> But for some reason the new HI version, despite sporting an identical lanyard - save for color and bead, wasn't feeling nearly as comfortable for some reason. With the lanyard on my little finger, the bead cinching it tightly, my thumb didn't seem to be falling right on top of the switch like it always had before. And that had me feeling puzzled. I kept thinking that it was just my imagination. I mean, why would it feel any different if the lanyards were constructed in an identical fashion, same size and shape? It had to be in my mind, right?
> 
> Well, that would be true IF _everything_ was identical. So, following that logical line of reasoning, I had to ask myself another question: "If all of my lanyards were made the same, what if something about the flashlight was different?" Hmm?
> 
> That's when I started comparing all of my Zebralights. And, Voila! There was the fly in the ointment! The pea under the mattress! The reason that this new HI version felt different from all the rest - The good folks at ZebraLight moved that little nub that houses the lanyard ring approximately .25" to the left of where it had been positioned on all on my previous Zebralights relative to all of the other aspects on the physical anatomy of the flashlight.
> 
> I apologize it that explanation sounds confusing. Perhaps some pictures would help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, here you can see from left to right - XHP HI - Mk III cool white - Mk II L2(w) neutral - SC600 Mk I Original cool white. Now let's turn these around and look at the other side...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see the difference? These lights are all in the same order, they have just been rotated 180 degrees. The 3 lights on the right, despite their difference in size all maintain virtually the same aspects regarding the positioning of that little nub and its lanyard ring. But not so on the 4th, the one on the left - the Mk III HI. Therein lies the rub! That little nub was moved! And that's why it's feeling different, ergonomically speaking.
> 
> On the 3 previous incarnations of the SC600, it was absolutely ergonomic perfection for me and my Pinkie Lanyard. Now, on this HI version, I can only vouch for near perfection - not for absolute perfection, as it was in the past. And, at least, now I can appreciate that there really is a physical reason it feels different and why I have to rotate the light ever so slightly to position my thumb on the switch. It wasn't all in my head, after all!
> 
> If you have the High Intensity Mk III and any other SC600 Please compare them and let me know what you find on yours. Is my HI just a fluke? Or are all of the HI's made with this subtle difference regarding that little nub that annoys many and others find useful? I would be curious to hear what you find.



They likely made this change so that the clip can be placed directly opposite the switch. Many people including myself prefer this clip orientation for lights(most lights already allow this or have their screwed on clips in this orientation. It makes the clip ride in a better position in your hand, while operating the switch, for many grip orientations and makes the light more comfortable to use imo. With older SC600's you couldnt put the clip directly opposite the switch because the lanyard nub was in the way and many have complained about this on here and other places. It looks like ZL might have moved it based on customer feedback. Thanks ZL:thumbsup:


----------



## TheRealSpinner

Mine is a bit off, but only a degree or two.


----------



## Henrik

oKtosiTe said:


> I am one of those obsessive people. I added a reflective sticker with my e-mail address on it before wrapping with clear shrink-wrap for extra points.



I like that battery case. Where did you get it?


----------



## oKtosiTe

Henrik said:


> I like that battery case. Where did you get it?


NKON


----------



## Cobraman502

PragmaticMurphyist said:


> I've ordered direct from Zebralight, free shipping, currently in transit.



I just ordered my first Zebralight SC600W MKIII HI. can't wait for it to come.


----------



## Henrik

Thank you.


----------



## twistedraven

I like this light so much that I might even consider getting a couple more just to see if I can get a super-tint one.


----------



## Husker

Waiting for my light to be delivered. 

Reading/Learning from the Operations Manual, I don't understand what the PID feature is...My guess, it regulates how hot to the touch the body of the light gets?...Please explain (in crayon terms!) what PID is + is it important?



> PID Thermal Regulation Temperature Programming for two highest output levels:
> Turn off the light from H1 and then turn back on to H1
> Press and hold to cycle from Low to High 6 times
> On the 7th (or more) cycle, release the switch
> when High to add 1 degree C (up to 5 max)
> when Med to revert back to the factory default
> when Low to subtract 1 degree C (up to 5 max)


----------



## kj2

PID takes care of the heat. Does it get too hot, then PID will throttle down the output. Is it cool enough, it will ramp up again.


----------



## markr6

kj2 said:


> PID takes care of the heat. Does it get too hot, then PID will throttle down the output. Is it cool enough, it will ramp up again.



That's pretty much it.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the directions for adjusting the PID. I find the factory setting to be OK. Once you get used to the light you may want to play around with the PID. It took them 4 years to release that to the "public"; I'm guessing it was just too much and would confuse buyers. Some people already get overwhelmed by the UI itself.


----------



## Husker

kj2 said:


> PID takes care of the heat. Does it get too hot, then PID will throttle down the output. Is it cool enough, it will ramp up again.





markr6 said:


> That's pretty much it.
> 
> I wouldn't be too concerned about the directions for adjusting the PID. I find the factory setting to be OK. Once you get used to the light you may want to play around with the PID. It took them 4 years to release that to the "public"; I'm guessing it was just too much and would confuse buyers.
> 
> Some people already get overwhelmed by the UI itself.



Just The Basic Facts-->:thanks:

I don't have the light yet and I'm already overwhelmed by all the UI features for a pocket light-->:eeksign:


----------



## twistedraven

Just think of it this way. Click once to turn the light on at its max brightness, or, hold the button down to start on moonlight and keep holding it down to cycle up from low,mid,high. That's basically how I use my Zebralights.

I also have my high output set to the max 1100 and then the 320lm output as secondary, because I find 320 lumens a nice output that is bright, but not ridiculous, and can last 4 hours.


----------



## Husker

twistedraven said:


> Just think of it this way. Click once to turn the light on at its max brightness, or, hold the button down to start on moonlight and keep holding it down to cycle up from low,mid,high. That's basically how I use my Zebralights.
> 
> I also have my high output set to the max 1100 and then the 320lm output as secondary, because I find 320 lumens a nice output that is bright, but not ridiculous, and can last 4 hours.



Sure hope the light is not as complicated as the manual is.


----------



## drummer132132

Husker said:


> Sure hope the light is not as complicated as the manual is.



It's not bad. The UI is quite easy to learn and is only intimidating when you haven't experienced the light in your hand before. Enjoy the light when it arrives


----------



## markr6

Husker said:


> Sure hope the light is not as complicated as the manual is.



Just about anything on paper is 10x more confusing. I recently bought a sewing machine and almost gave up on that thing. But after a 90 second youtube video, piece of cake.


----------



## CelticCross74

when I got into ZL with the SC600 MkII I thought its UI was like trying to perform brain surgery with a rubber switch. Never had a light that had that many options. Got used to it over time. Now the HI makes my MkII look dim lol. I really wish the manuals were printed in larger print on larger paper as my reading length vision is atrocious. Now I am tempted to get the non HI version but have read that the tint is totally different for some reason Idk. Blew my light fund for the month already anyways.


----------



## JWRitchie76

twistedraven said:


> Just think of it this way. Click once to turn the light on at its max brightness, or, hold the button down to start on moonlight and keep holding it down to cycle up from low,mid,high. That's basically how I use my Zebralights.
> 
> I also have my high output set to the max 1100 and then the 320lm output as secondary, because I find 320 lumens a nice output that is bright, but not ridiculous, and can last 4 hours.



I do pretty much the same except I lock in H2 so when I click once for high it comes on in H2. If I need 1100 I just double click from there.


----------



## markr6

CelticCross74 said:


> when I got into ZL with the SC600 MkII I thought its UI was like trying to perform brain surgery with a rubber switch. Never had a light that had that many options. Got used to it over time. Now the HI makes my MkII look dim lol. I really wish the manuals were printed in larger print on larger paper as my reading length vision is atrocious. Now I am tempted to get the non HI version but have read that the tint is totally different for some reason Idk. Blew my light fund for the month already anyways.



I had both the CW and NW in the MKIII for a brief time before selling. From what I remember, I would say the NW MKIII was the same as my HI. The CW wasn't bad either...and I typically don't like anything CW. But as usual, it's a tint lottery and the odds aren't great.


----------



## twistedraven

The 5700k CW MKIII has a nice neutral-cool temperature, and it never really gets blue. However, you'd probably have to really play the lottery to get one that wasn't greenish.


----------



## Husker

Is the Tint just a personal thing or does it create a problem with the way it performs?


----------



## twistedraven

It's just a personal thing. Mark and I especially are big-time tint snobs.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

Awfully close to pulling the trigger on this...


----------



## Offgridled

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Awfully close to pulling the trigger on this...



I've bought 2 of these . I usually buy all my lights from Vinh. He even advertises these lights on his site with no modifications. I'll guarantee you'll be very happy if you purchase it.


----------



## markr6

Offgridled said:


> I usually buy all my lights from Vinh. He even advertises these lights on his site with no modifications.



I was surprised, and happy, to see that!


----------



## Cobraman502

Just got my SC600w MK III HI. Now it's time to wait for dark. I absolutely love the UI.


----------



## tops2

Husker said:


> Sure hope the light is not as complicated as the manual is.



Lol. The first time I was introduced to it in person, it was so confusing. But as twistedraven mentioned, the basic operation is one quick click for max brightness. Hold button to cycle through low-medium-high and let go on the one you want. You can press and hold from whether the light is on or off, as it'll just cycle through low-medium-high. Single click to turn off.


Whatever you do, don't double click when the light is on...until you're comfortable with the basic operations listed above. But once you're comfortable, you can double click on any of the low/medium/high you're on to switch between slightly brighter vs slightly darker levels.

Whatever you do, don't double click till the cows come home...until you're ready to "program" the alternate level for each of the low/medium/high modes.

Optional nice feature is quick click 4 times from off to check battery level.

I love the Zebralight UI, but it definitely took time to fully understand it. And in some ways (to me), its not a good UI for when you're in a hurry if you like switching modes. When I'm in a hurry but don't want max level, I still activate the wrong mode from time to time..or even strobe myself...


----------



## Husker

tops2

Thanks for the advice/tips. 

Since I live in Nebraska, I know all about the cows and home… LOL!!


----------



## outdoorguy82

twistedraven said:


> Aaaaand it's gone.
> 
> So what makes the HI version have way better tint than the regular domed version?



LMAO!!! It may be a long shot...but did you get that quote from the Black Ops 3 black market mercenary? He says that same thing after you burn items already obtained from the supply drop boxes. Just wanted to ask lol. Anyway good thread and I am thinking about getting a new zebralight since they seem to make the best lights imho. Love this forum.


----------



## wolfgaze

outdoorguy82 said:


> LMAO!!! It may be a long shot...but did you get that quote from the Black Ops 3 black market mercenary? He says that same thing after you burn items already obtained from the supply drop boxes. Just wanted to ask lol.



That phrase "*Aaand it's gone*" originated from a scene in a South Park episode (Margarittaville)...


----------



## roger-roger

Put my order in this morning. Hope it has as nice a tint as my soon to be ex-SC600w MK III.


----------



## Cobraman502

roger-roger said:


> Put my order in this morning. Hope it has as nice a tint as my soon to be ex-SC600w MK III.



Should be but with much better throw.


----------



## Husker




----------



## tops2

Husker said:


> tops2
> 
> Thanks for the advice/tips.
> 
> Since I live in Nebraska, I know all about the cows and home… LOL!!



Lol! I grew up mostly in the suburbs so I know nothing about cows and other things.. I guess that what I haven't purchased the HI version yet since I haven't felt the need to see far away. I just need enough light to look for my phone..or the next closes flashlight to play with. 

I'm liking floody lights better as I can see all my lights at once (which isn't that much...I swear!). But I guess I can always use a thrower on turbo to ceiling bounce to see the whole room too. But oh no! Cracking flashaholic jokes!!!


----------



## markr6

Husker said:


>



Is that a photo of an SC600 HI or am I tripping on acid?


----------



## Husker

markr6 said:


> Is that a photo of an SC600 HI or am I tripping on acid?



That was how I felt (Tripping) after testing the light!!


----------



## Husker

tops2 said:


> Lol! I grew up mostly in the suburbs so I know nothing about cows and other things.. I guess that what I haven't purchased the HI version yet since I haven't felt the need to see far away. I just need enough light to look for my phone..or the next closes flashlight to play with.
> 
> I'm liking floody lights better as I can see all my lights at once (which isn't that much...I swear!). But I guess I can always use a thrower on turbo to ceiling bounce to see the whole room too. But oh no! Cracking flashaholic jokes!!!



This is my 2nd flashlight purchase...1st was a thrower as well...DEFT-X!


----------



## jonnyfgroove

markr6 said:


> Is that a photo of an SC600 HI or am I tripping on acid?





I thought it was a beamshot with lots of artifacts.


----------



## Sphinxxx

So i just read this entire thread and only saw one vague lux number stating 17k. Anybody take a reading on this light?


----------



## scs

Sphinxxx said:


> So i just read this entire thread and only saw one vague lux number stating 17k. Anybody take a reading on this light?



Per advanced knife pro's YouTube review, around 18k cd.


----------



## eekazum

sdr said:


> I apologize it that explanation sounds confusing. Perhaps some pictures would help?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, here you can see from left to right - XHP HI - Mk III cool white - Mk II L2(w) neutral - SC600 Mk I Original cool white. Now let's turn these around and look at the other side...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you see the difference? These lights are all in the same order, they have just been rotated 180 degrees. The 3 lights on the right, despite their difference in size all maintain virtually the same aspects regarding the positioning of that little nub and its lanyard ring. But not so on the 4th, the one on the left - the Mk III HI. Therein lies the rub! That little nub was moved! And that's why it's feeling different, ergonomically speaking.
> 
> On the 3 previous incarnations of the SC600, it was absolutely ergonomic perfection for me and my Pinkie Lanyard. Now, on this HI version, I can only vouch for near perfection - not for absolute perfection, as it was in the past. And, at least, now I can appreciate that there really is a physical reason it feels different and why I have to rotate the light ever so slightly to position my thumb on the switch. It wasn't all in my head, after all!
> 
> If you have the High Intensity Mk III and any other SC600 Please compare them and let me know what you find on yours. Is my HI just a fluke? Or are all of the HI's made with this subtle difference regarding that little nub that annoys many and others find useful? I would be curious to hear what you find.



My mk3 hi has the lanyard directly opposite of the zl logo like your other zl's. Very weird. If it bugs you that much, I'm willing to trade. I don't use the lanyard anyways.














Ok on closer inspection, it is not exactly 180° behind the zl stamp... but close.


----------



## emarkd

Sphinxxx said:


> So i just read this entire thread and only saw one vague lux number stating 17k. Anybody take a reading on this light?


I measured mine at 19010.


----------



## Husker

sdr said:


>



I can't find the Black keepers like you have on the ends of your lanyards...Where can I purchase them?


----------



## EsthetiX

Husker said:


> I can't find the Black keepers like you have on the ends of your lanyards...Where can I purchase them?



I was about to ask the same question.


----------



## mac8175

Ordered mine the other day, will have it this Sunday. I can't wait. It will be my first real flashlight.


----------



## PB Wilson

The only place I've found them was on the kid's backpacks. 

Do a search for "zipper cord ends" and you'll come up with a zillion places. Isn't the internet great? Aiding and abetting in the demise of our bank accounts...


----------



## dreze888

Trying to decide between this or the MKII. Ugh so hard to decide!


----------



## jonnyfgroove

dreze888 said:


> Trying to decide between this or the MKII. Ugh so hard to decide!




The XH-P HI emitter makes it well worth getting the III HI, imo.


----------



## TheRealSpinner

dreze888 said:


> Trying to decide between this or the MKII. Ugh so hard to decide!



I like the standard III better than the HI. I like the floodier beam, and I can't really make out whatever the light is shining on at full distance with the HI. I'd rather see more of up close.

I don't have any experience with the MK II, though, so can't compare.


----------



## oKtosiTe

dreze888 said:


> Trying to decide between this or the MKII. Ugh so hard to decide!


Get the III or the III HI. Unless you get an amazing deal on the II, the upgrade in output and compactness is totally worth it.


----------



## markr6

Any kind of outdoor activity begs for the HI. I understand the floodier beam of the standard model is better for hiking, but still, that HI outdoors is a must have (in conjunction with a floodier light or headlamp)


----------



## twistedraven

For most hiking and outdoor activities I like the HI beam better, I tend to let its hotspot illuminate further down the path, while the spill takes care of my immediate surroundings. I'm able to see more at the same time with the HI than the regular MKIII in that way.

Hiking in the dense forests on the foot of the colorado 14ers is more suited for a floody headlamp, so I'll use that, with the HI as complementary.


I actually didn't mind the warmer tint of the HI as much as I thought I would when using it outside, but it is apparent that it lacks a good bit of deep red, as it has a slight ghastly yellow to it.


----------



## Connor

twistedraven said:


> I actually didn't mind the warmer tint of the HI as much as I thought I would when using it outside, but it is apparent that it lacks a good bit of deep red, as it has a slight ghastly yellow to it.



The cold white version lacks even more deep red, though (5 less CRI).


----------



## sidecross

markr6 said:


> Any kind of outdoor activity begs for the HI. I understand the floodier beam of the standard model is better for hiking, but still, that HI outdoors is a must have (in conjunction with a floodier light or headlamp)


I use the ZebraLight SC600 Mklll XHP35 cool white for my edc, and for distance needs I now have the Manker U21 which is a beefed up version of the subject of this thread. The XHP35Hi on the Manker U21 can put out 124000cd.

The Manker U21 is a larger pocket thrower. :thumbsup:


----------



## markr6

sidecross said:


> The Manker U21 is a larger pocket thrower. :thumbsup:



I want that bad, but the UI is an absolute deal breaker for me.


----------



## twistedraven

With a head that's nearly 2.4 inches round. 


The cool white MK3 is actually 10 less CRI than the HI. And honestly, after getting the Jaxman E2 5700k with its 80 R9, I don't think I'll be able to use any other neutral-cool white emitter anymore. If only there was a larger light that had 3 or more of those Nichias in it.


In the meantime I'll wait to see if Vinh doe something with the batch of 5700k 93-95cri XHP-70s he's gotten, or wait for Zebralight's SC600 plus.

There is a fallacy with sunlight mimickers afterall, and that's that even though they might be able to illuminate objects up close very pleasantly, they'll never ever come close to the raw output of the sun when trying to illuminate all of your surroundings outside.


----------



## sidecross

markr6 said:


> I want that bad, but the UI is an absolute deal breaker for me.


Having more than one flashlight with an electronic switch interface does require more user attention; the electronic switches should have programmable firmware so the end user can dictated what 'long', 'short' or 'double click' results in.


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

It's here and, on first impressions, I'm delighted. Just waiting for night to fall in order to see what it can do. Anodisation perfect, beam great, tint great, love the UI. Compared with my existing EDC Fenix PD22UE it's a smidgen longer, a fair bit thicker but still fine for pocket carry (I habitually wear walking trousers) and twice the lumens on full chat.

Note for UK people ordering from Zebralight - The tracking stopped when it left China and, even now it's been delivered, the Royal Mail have still never heard of it! It took a couple of weeks from shipping to delivery.


----------



## Trancersteve

PragmaticMurphyist said:


> It's here and, on first impressions, I'm delighted. Just waiting for night to fall in order to see what it can do. Anodisation perfect, beam great, tint great, love the UI. Compared with my existing EDC Fenix PD22UE it's a smidgen longer, a fair bit thicker but still fine for pocket carry (I habitually wear walking trousers) and twice the lumens on full chat.
> 
> Note for UK people ordering from Zebralight - The tracking stopped when it left China and, even now it's been delivered, the Royal Mail have still never heard of it! It took a couple of weeks from shipping to delivery.



After ordering and cancelling last month, I decided last night to reorder. I was having a hard time accepting that protected cells can't be used. But, I'm ok now. 

Am also in the UK. Did you choose the standard delivery? I've gone for EMS delivery, kinda wished I opted for DHL now. I just hope it arrives before next Friday for a trip. It has already shipped... Fingers crossed.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

Got mine yesterday. Really like the tint. The beam has great balance of throw and spill. Plenty of both for my use. The Malkoff clip fits great with an Oveready copper spring washer between the battery and tailcap.


----------



## blackbalsam

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Got mine yesterday. Really like the tint. The beam has great balance of throw and spill. Plenty of both for my use. The Malkoff clip fits great with an Oveready copper spring washer between the battery and tailcap.


 Which tint did you get?


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

blackbalsam said:


> Which tint did you get?



I think there is only one?? 4500K


----------



## jonnyfgroove

PoliceScannerMan said:


> I think there is only one?? 4500K



Yeah, there's only neutral for the "HI" emitter model. That clip setup looks great!


----------



## easilyled

Just wondering if anybody has tried an AW IMR 18650 cells with this light? My AW IMR 18650 is significantly shorter than my AW protected cells.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

jonnyfgroove said:


> Yeah, there's only neutral for the "HI" emitter model. That clip setup looks great!



Thanks man the clip fits into the "logo flat" perfectly like it was made for it. Slides in pocket with one hand and holds pretty secure.


----------



## Koam

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Thanks man the clip fits into the "logo flat" perfectly like it was made for it. Slides in pocket with one hand and holds pretty secure.



I can't seem to find that exact clip on Malkoff's site. Did you buy it recently? Thanks!


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

Koam said:


> I can't seem to find that exact clip on Malkoff's site. Did you buy it recently? Thanks!



Its the one he used to sell for the MD2 bodies, not sure if he still sells...


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

Trancersteve said:


> After ordering and cancelling last month, I decided last night to reorder. I was having a hard time accepting that protected cells can't be used. But, I'm ok now.
> 
> Am also in the UK. Did you choose the standard delivery? I've gone for EMS delivery, kinda wished I opted for DHL now. I just hope it arrives before next Friday for a trip. It has already shipped... Fingers crossed.


I went with standard shipping. Fingers crossed for you!


----------



## Bob_McBob

I decided to go with the SC600w HI as my first nice LED flashlight, and I eagerly await its arrival. I went with standard shipping and it was sent on July 10. Unfortunately Canada Post decided to remove tracking data from all international inbound registered mail last year, so all I know is it didn't leave China until July 18. Good things come to those who wait, I suppose!


----------



## Drift Monkey

Got mine yesterday (ordered Friday)! This thread don't lie...great light!


----------



## Cobraman502

Drift Monkey said:


> Got mine yesterday (ordered Friday)! This thread don't lie...great light!



Love mine too


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

Does anyone have the SC600 MKIII HI and the SC63w 18650 XHP35 Flashlight Neutral White?? Is it the same exact tint? If so I may get one. Loving the tint on the Mkiii HI.


----------



## markr6

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Does anyone have the SC600 MKIII HI and the SC63w 18650 XHP35 Flashlight Neutral White?? Is it the same exact tint? If so I may get one. Loving the tint on the Mkiii HI.



They are very close. The HI looks whiter, but I think that's just because of the higher intensity of the hotspot.

SC600w HI -- SC63w


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

markr6 said:


> They are very close. The HI looks whiter, but I think that's just because of the higher intensity of the hotspot.
> 
> SC600w HI -- SC63w



Wow thank you for the beam shot man! 

As long as the 63 isn't cooler...


----------



## Drift Monkey

The HI's tint will be inherently more even (and perhaps a tad bit warmer) though since it doesn't have a dome.


----------



## Drift Monkey

I'm curious, anyone do a water seal test on theirs yet?


----------



## TheRealSpinner

I dunked both of mine (HI and SC63w) the other night in a pond. Only about a foot deep, for about 15 sec. I didn't actually disassemble them or do any further investigation, but they both work fine tonight.


----------



## CelticCross74

the more I read this thread and the more experience I get with my own HI the more I realize that the HI is likely to go down as one of the best ZL's ever. One of my first ventures into smaller lights(to me its literally a paperweight)it still stuns and amazes me in its perfect everything.


----------



## Cobraman502

CelticCross74 said:


> the more I read this thread and the more experience I get with my own HI the more I realize that the HI is likely to go down as one of the best ZL's ever. One of my first ventures into smaller lights(to me its literally a paperweight)it still stuns and amazes me in its perfect everything.



Yep I agree this light is rather small. I absolutely love the UI and the brightness levels. They are very usable to me. I was considering on purchasing a nitecore but I wanted more choices of brightness levels. The Zebralight light SC600 MKIII hi hits a home run in every way for me. I never had such a wide usable spill with a tight hotspot in a small little light like this. Best EDC light ever.


----------



## liteboy

With so many similar lights in its class, what is it exactly that so many people are loving about this light? So far I'm getting:
Great tint
Power to size ratio
UI (which I find confusing and almost deal killer)
Build quality


----------



## Cobraman502

liteboy said:


> With so many similar lights in its class, what is it exactly that so many people are loving about this light? So far I'm getting:
> Great tint
> Power to size ratio
> UI (which I find confusing and almost deal killer)
> Build quality



Yes all these are true except the UI. The UI is rather simple. You have high, med and low. These are default outputs and cannot be programmed. Then if you double tap in any of the modes you will have high 2, med 2 and low 2. These are programmable from a few different light levels and will keep the level you program.

Light operation is simple. Quick click will get you high mode. If you last used high 2 that's what you will have here. You can double click to access the next high mode. 

While light is off hold button for .6 seconds (count half a second) and you will enter low. Again if you were in low 2 you will have low 2 again. This is nice because I set my low 2 to .5 lumen output, great for getting up at night. 

Hold down the button to cycle through modes while the light is on. 

This is pretty much the basic light operation. There are other features like strobe modes 3 quick clicks and battery level, 4 quick clicks all from the light being powered off. 

I was hesitant on the UI also, however easily picked it up and it is the best light I have owned.


----------



## Drift Monkey

The UI is only "confusing" on paper. It's pretty easy/intuitive when you use it.


----------



## snowlover91

liteboy said:


> With so many similar lights in its class, what is it exactly that so many people are loving about this light? So far I'm getting:
> Great tint
> Power to size ratio
> UI (which I find confusing and almost deal killer)
> Build quality



Yep it's basically a blend of all those things that works great in such a small package. I used to buy different lights like Nitecore, Olight, Fenix, etc but now I've been getting rid of those and reducing my collection down to just a few modded lights, an AAA by Maratac, a few Nitecore PD lights I collect and Zebralight for the actual daily usage. The other lights just don't compare in build quality, neutral or high cri options and UI. That's why my two most used lights now are the SC63w and MK3 HI by ZL.


----------



## miyagi

Hi Guys. Quick question about the battery. Can I use Olight or Keeppower protected 18650 battery or does it have to be the stock version available from Zebralight website? This one?

http://www.zebralight.com/Panasonic...-Battery-ship-to-US-customers-only_p_176.html


----------



## Cobraman502

miyagi said:


> Hi Guys. Quick question about the battery. Can I use Olight or Keeppower protected 18650 battery or does it have to be the stock version available from Zebralight website? This one?
> 
> http://www.zebralight.com/Panasonic...-Battery-ship-to-US-customers-only_p_176.html



You must use unprotected cells. I bought Panasonic cells on Amazon and they work great, get the cells from zebra. You know they will fit and they are a good price.


----------



## miyagi

Yes, thank you.


----------



## Lex Icon

liteboy said:


> With so many similar lights in its class, what is it exactly that so many people are loving about this light? So far I'm getting:
> Great tint
> Power to size ratio
> UI (which I find confusing and almost deal killer)
> Build quality


ZL has specialized in EDC tools, carving out their own niche.
Admittedly, Zebralights and Salmon are a couple of my favorite things. I tell people "There's fish, and then there is Salmon". Some people don't like either of them, but it would be difficult to compare them with anything but close cousins. Pseudo Salmon like Steelhead, and other members of the Trout family are OK, more expensive fish exist, and my Mother in-law threw up the only time she ever pretended to like Red Salmon. People have bad experiences with ZLs also, just don't get too vociferous about your distain for the ribbed billet lights around here, it would be like bad mouthing one of the respected folk heroes/modders inhabiting this forum. Like dissing Mom, apple pie, the American flag, or somebody's sister in the hood, a livid Flashaholic would let the dogs out, or even the hounds from hell, if you insisted on a foolish consistency for more than a couple of posts. Disregarding the quality and options available, what accounts for this brand loyalty? Limited production and premium prices help contribute to exclusivity, and a certain mystique. Rather than part of a huge international business, OEM supplier, or multi brand marketer, we get the feeling their engineers and executives are fellow flashaholics with pride and love for what they do. The Military minded, LEOs, and photon crazed lumen hot rodders may own ZLs, but their 'jones' will never be fully satiated. We would be more than mildly surprised to see a crenelated bezel on a Zebra. Even worse would be Social and environmental irresponsibility in design and production. Planned Obselesence! - Do you avoid buying lights due to their built-in, proprietary batteries? Is it too complicated to a build a light able to charge standard batteries?

Not every flashlight seems to respect their customer base, displays honesty, and avoids using Chinese (LED) lumen claims. I have read no reports of ZL sending samples to shills, or suggest strongly that you buy their rebranded batteries. Their production release dates, announced models, and shades of anodization may rain on your parade, your prefered flavor of battery may not fit, people may ask where and why you bought that ugly little expensive flashlight, and you may turn into a collector, but at least you will be in good company.


----------



## recDNA

Still holding out for Hi CRI XHP-50.Hope it isn't vaporware


----------



## Johnno

liteboy said:


> With so many similar lights in its class, what is it exactly that so many people are loving about this light? So far I'm getting:
> Great tint
> Power to size ratio
> UI (which I find confusing and almost deal killer)
> Build quality



Buy one. You'll see.


----------



## easilyled

easilyled said:


> Just wondering if anybody has tried an AW IMR 18650 cells with this light? My AW IMR 18650 is significantly shorter than my AW protected cells.



Let me try this question above once more.


----------



## Native89

easilyled said:


> Let me try this question above once more.



Don't have any personal experience with that battery, but a quick googling brought me to an HKJ review of the 2000mah version.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?339356-Test-Review-of-AW-IMR-18650-2000mAh-(Red)

According to that, the length of the cell is 65.2mm and Zebralight specifies a battery between 65.0 and 65.2.
So as an educated guess I will say that they will physically fit in the light. But YMMV.


----------



## Robot Mania FU

liteboy said:


> With so many similar lights in its class, what is it exactly that so many people are loving about this light? So far I'm getting:
> Great tint
> Power to size ratio
> UI (which I find confusing and almost deal killer)
> Build quality




Don't be scared by the UI. It seems confusing on paper, however (IMO) it is the best UI I have used in a light. I find myself getting frustrated any time I go back to anything else for an every day light. Once you select which variant you like best for high, med, low you are set. From there it is just instant access depending on how you press the switch. Trust me when I say in only a short while you will fall in love with the UI and it goes across the board with all of their lights. The only issue is that it will make you want more.


----------



## wolfgaze

liteboy said:


> With so many similar lights in its class, what is it exactly that so many people are loving about this light? So far I'm getting:
> Great tint
> Power to size ratio
> *UI (which I find confusing and almost deal killer)
> *Build quality



The UI is easy to figure out and use once you get your hands on a Zebralight and play around with it... It's great being able to select your desired/preferred lumen output levels for each mode...


----------



## easilyled

Native89 said:


> Don't have any personal experience with that battery, but a quick googling brought me to an HKJ review of the 2000mah version.
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?339356-Test-Review-of-AW-IMR-18650-2000mAh-(Red)
> 
> According to that, the length of the cell is 65.2mm and Zebralight specifies a battery between 65.0 and 65.2.
> So as an educated guess I will say that they will physically fit in the light. But YMMV.



Thank you. I suppose that I should have looked that up myself but I was hoping that some people would have had personal experience of using it. :thumbsup:


----------



## liteboy

Thanks for all the replies. I guess I'll just have to buy one. I'm also interested in the ZL SC5w AA putting out 500lm on an eneloop. If UI is same then it'll be worth the effort learning it!


----------



## liteboy

Are you guys mostly buying from ZL webstore?


----------



## wolfgaze

liteboy said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I guess I'll just have to buy one. I'm also interested in the *ZL SC5w* AA putting out 500lm on an eneloop. If UI is same then it'll be worth the effort learning it!



That is the only ZL that I currently own and I really like it and enjoy it...

The UI is the same... Also worth noting that ZL has a 30 day satisfaction guarantee, so if it turns out that you don't like the light and you haven't damaged it in any way - you can return it for a refund within the alotted time period...

P.S. - yes I purchase from the ZL website/store...


----------



## vadimax

markr6 said:


> Is that a photo of an SC600 HI or am I tripping on acid?



Nope. This is a background of a hypnotoad.


----------



## Lex Icon

liteboy said:


> Are you guys mostly buying from ZL webstore?


In addition to their site, depending on available stock, you can look into discounts, sales, and the inclusion of appropriate batteries buying from reputable sources like Illumination Supply (CA), Bright Guys (OHIO), and Skylumen.com (WA).


----------



## liteboy

Thanks Lex, looks like non great deals anywhere. Vihn's is probably best since he includes a decent battery and no additional shipping charge. Looks like more money coming your way vinh!


----------



## Bob_McBob

Getting there... just need the actual flashlight now


----------



## AussieRanga

easilyled said:


> Thank you. I suppose that I should have looked that up myself but I was hoping that some people would have had personal experience of using it. :thumbsup:



AW 3000mAh IMR and LG HG2 (which I believe is the cell AW use for the 3000mAh) both fit with no worries. Bare Panasonic NCR18650B cells also fit, so too do Samsung 25R's and obviously the Sanyo NCR18650GA as well, which are possibly the most popular cell used.


----------



## oKtosiTe

AussieRanga said:


> AW 3000mAh IMR and LG HG2 (which I believe is the cell AW use for the 3000mAh) both fit with no worries. Bare Panasonic NCR18650B cells also fit, so too do Samsung 25R's and obviously the Sanyo NCR18650GA as well, which are possibly the most popular cell used.


Don't forget the LG MJ1; one of the best cells for this light.


----------



## lizongyu

I personally recommend LG MJ1 and Sanyo GA, they both fit this light perfectly. I have tried some other cells like LG HG2 and Samsung 30Q, they are slightly shorter than the MJ1 and Ga, hence they will cause battery rattle.


----------



## easilyled

AussieRanga said:


> AW 3000mAh IMR and LG HG2 (which I believe is the cell AW use for the 3000mAh) both fit with no worries. Bare Panasonic NCR18650B cells also fit, so too do Samsung 25R's and obviously the Sanyo NCR18650GA as well, which are possibly the most popular cell used.




Thank you for your answer. Goes to show how old my AW 2000mAh IMR is, if the capacity is up to 3000mAh now.


----------



## miyagi

Hello ZL Members. I just ordered the Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI with the unprotected 18650 battery from ZL. This is my first time to buy and use an unprotected battery which I am very new to it. Do you guys have any recommended website or a link where I can learn about the safety of them? Someone mentioned you should not over-charge or dis-charge too much. Not sure what that means. Any recommended advice as how to store/keep them is greatly appreciated. Should I get a voltage meter to check at times too or get one of those chargers with voltage meter available? Thank you everyone!


----------



## twistedraven

The essential difference is that it doesn't have the low voltage protection circuit on the top of the battery itself. Instead, the flashlight will serve as the low voltage cutoff. 

The same general battery care applies for everything else. Don't store it in a very hot location, don't knock the battery itself around, charge it in a good charger that has overcharge protection, etc.

I feel as safe using unprotected cells as I do protected cells, as long as I'm using them in flashlights I'm confident in.


----------



## miyagi

Thank you Twistedraven.


----------



## jonnyfgroove

miyagi said:


> Hello ZL Members. I just ordered the Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI with the unprotected 18650 battery from ZL. This is my first time to buy and use an unprotected battery which I am very new to it. Do you guys have any recommended website or a link where I can learn about the safety of them? Someone mentioned you should not over-charge or dis-charge too much. Not sure what that means. Any recommended advice as how to store/keep them is greatly appreciated. Should I get a voltage meter to check at times too or get one of those chargers with voltage meter available? Thank you everyone!



Here is some good reading.


----------



## CelticCross74

just get a good charger like a VP2 or VC2. They are programmed to charge to 4.20v and stop on most li-ion cells. The computer in these chargers identify what kind of cell is in the slot and charge accordingly. As for over discharge cut off etc. its all built into the ZL already so no worries. I use the GA cell. Had nothing but good luck with it. The Xtar chargers almost all have voltage meters.


----------



## Drift Monkey

CelticCross74 said:


> just get a good charger like a VP2 or VC2. They are programmed to charge to 4.20v and stop on most li-ion cells. The computer in these chargers identify what kind of cell is in the slot and charge accordingly. As for over discharge cut off etc. its all built into the ZL already so no worries. I use the GA cell. Had nothing but good luck with it. The Xtar chargers almost all have voltage meters.



VP2 FTW!


----------



## TCY

Off topic question here guys. I have a VC4 charger that comes with a generic USB adapter which is supposed to charge 2 cells simultaneously at 1V, but mine only charges at 1V after the initial maybe 30 seconds, then stays stable at around 0.4V. It seems to charge one cell at 1V most of the time with no problem. I've tested with Nitecore protected 2600mah, Samsung 30Q IMR and 18650GA so I can rule out battery problems. Could it be the generic adapter? Thanks.


----------



## miyagi

Thank you fellow ZL users! I think I got all the info needed. Sorry to drift away from this thread. Just too excited.


----------



## oKtosiTe

TCY said:


> Off topic question here guys. I have a VC4 charger that comes with a generic USB adapter which is supposed to charge 2 cells simultaneously at 1V, but mine only charges at 1V after the initial maybe 30 seconds, then stays stable at around 0.4V. It seems to charge one cell at 1V most of the time with no problem. I've tested with Nitecore protected 2600mah, Samsung 30Q IMR and 18650GA so I can rule out battery problems. Could it be the generic adapter? Thanks.


I think you mean A (ampère), not V (volt). What is the ampère rating on the adapter?


----------



## SubLGT

Lex Icon said:


> In addition to their site, depending on available stock, you can look into discounts, sales, and the inclusion of appropriate batteries buying from reputable sources like Illumination Supply (CA), Bright Guys (OHIO), and Skylumen.com (WA).



andrew&amanda also sell ZL.

maybe goinggear also?

I wonder why ZL does not list their authorized dealers on their website? 

People criticize the Armytek website as pitiful, but the ZL website looks amateurish.


----------



## Offgridled

liteboy said:


> Thanks Lex, looks like non great deals anywhere. Vihn's is probably best since he includes a decent battery and no additional shipping charge. Looks like more money coming your way vinh!



Vinh is by far the best place. Also an amazing moder of lights. You'll be happy you did


----------



## TCY

oKtosiTe said:


> I think you mean A (ampère), not V (volt). What is the ampère rating on the adapter?



Yep I wasn't using my brain when I typed, thanks for correcting.

The adapter input rating is 50/60Hz 150MA MAX, and output rating is DC5V 2.1A.


----------



## oKtosiTe

TCY said:


> Yep I wasn't using my brain when I typed, thanks for correcting.
> 
> The adapter input rating is 50/60Hz 150MA MAX, and output rating is DC5V 2.1A.


Odd, [email protected] should be enough to charge both cells at 1A.


----------



## markr6

SubLGT said:


> People criticize the Armytek website as pitiful, but the ZL website looks amateurish.



Sure is, but it's simple and it works. No BS. They saved some cash by using one of those ecommerce templates. Hopefully that time and money saved is coming thru to my wallet; keep these lights under $100!


----------



## liteboy

Offgridled said:


> Vinh is by far the best place. Also an amazing moder of lights. You'll be happy you did



Shucks, I think skylumen is no longer carrying this light...


----------



## TCY

oKtosiTe said:


> Odd, [email protected] should be enough to charge both cells at 1A.



Hmm, I'll just charge one cell at a time then, can't be bothered to send the charger back for a warranty check. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Creezy

What are you peeps using for a holster?


----------



## liteboy

Creezy said:


> What are you peeps using for a holster?



Yes I'd like to know as well!


----------



## wolfgaze

Creezy said:


> What are you peeps using for a holster?



I don't currently own this light, but if I end up getting the SC600 PLUS, I will be buying a Maxpedition 4" Flashlight Sheath to carry it in... Another CPF member confirms that the light fits well in it.....


----------



## oKtosiTe

Creezy said:


> What are you peeps using for a holster?


A Maxpedition Fatboy. Or my pocket.
The Maxpedition Single Sheath looks pretty sweet.


----------



## Drift Monkey

Creezy said:


> What are you peeps using for a holster?


My pocket.


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

Front left trouser pocket.


----------



## tops2

Just curious for those who pocket carry this light, then where do you carry your keys, wallet and phone?

I usually carry my phone in front left pocket. Nothing else goes into this pocket cause I don't want to scratch up the screen.

Keys in front right pocket. Wallet in back right pocket or front right pocket (for work out shorts). Then I'll clip my light to top of front right pocket.


----------



## Drift Monkey

tops2 said:


> Just curious for those who pocket carry this light, then where do you carry your keys, wallet and phone?
> 
> I usually carry my phone in front left pocket. Nothing else goes into this pocket cause I don't want to scratch up the screen.
> 
> Keys in front right pocket. Wallet in back right pocket or front right pocket (for work out shorts). Then I'll clip my light to top of front right pocket.



Basically the same as you, although I do tuck it inside my front right pocket or rear left pocket at times as well (alternates with a knife).


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

SC600 clipped in left front pocket
Nexus 6 in leather slip cover in left front pocket
Card case in left rear pocket
Keys on KeyPer into right front pocket
Wallet in jacket pocket (usually) or bag (if hot)


----------



## oKtosiTe

Phone in left front (display inward to avoid cracking) or concealed carry section of bag. keys in bag, wallet in bag, SC600 in front right pocket or holster on bag. So it varies; sometimes I have nothing in my pockets.


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

SC63w on left and SC600mkiii HI on right


----------



## oKtosiTe

PoliceScannerMan said:


> SC63w on left and SC600mkiii HI on right


Would the difference between the regular mk.III and the mk.III HI be about as pronounced?


----------



## twistedraven

That looks like two different brightness levels.


----------



## TheRealSpinner

SC600 MK III HI on the left. SC600w MK III on the right. The wall is about 5.5' away, both torches are on M1 setting.


----------



## oKtosiTe

TheRealSpinner said:


> SC600 MK III HI on the left. SC600w MK III on the right. The wall is about 5.5' away, both torches are on M1 setting.


I've been waiting days for you to post this. 
Thanks! Now I feel better about buying a HI to complement my regular III. It should be here any day now.


----------



## recDNA

I like to see the highest settings next to each other.


----------



## sigsegv

I took a close shot of the emitter and there are some interesting colors. Are the colors observed combining to give the beam its final color, or did I just make that up?


----------



## PoliceScannerMan

twistedraven said:


> That looks like two different brightness levels.



Same settings, iphone pic though.


----------



## roger-roger

oKtosiTe said:


> I've been waiting days for you to post this.
> Thanks! Now I feel better about buying a HI to complement my regular III. It should be here any day now.




The lights do complement each other. That pic reveals the hotspots only, without showing the primary spill and how the hotspot integrates with it.


----------



## oKtosiTe

I wonder to what degree (pun intended) adjusting the target PID temperature affects the LED's lifespan.


----------



## tsask

Creezy said:


> What are you peeps using for a holster?



Mine is in an "old" HDS U 60 holster with velcro flap on my belt . really cool!!!


----------



## SubLGT

TheRealSpinner said:


> SC600 MK III HI on the left. SC600w MK III on the right. The wall is about 5.5' away, both torches are on M1 setting.



On my monitor, the spot on the right (for the standard MK III) has a definite green tint. Is that how you see it in person?


----------



## scs

SubLGT said:


> On my monitor, the spot on the right (for the standard MK III) has a definite green tint. Is that how you see it in person?



Looks green this end as well. When side by side, tints can do funny things. I have a warm tinted light that looks noticeably green next to another warm tinted light that looks more light orange. Yet it is the latter, by itself, that makes things look green, while the former looks very pleasant.


----------



## TheRealSpinner

I can't say that I notice a green tint to the light, but I'm not the best person to ask. At a distance, I sometimes have a difficult time distinguising between the green traffic lights, and the white street lights. Also, it's too bright to look directly at it for long enough to distinguish a color tint.


----------



## scs

TCY said:


> Off topic question here guys. I have a VC4 charger that comes with a generic USB adapter which is supposed to charge 2 cells simultaneously at 1V, but mine only charges at 1V after the initial maybe 30 seconds, then stays stable at around 0.4V. It seems to charge one cell at 1V most of the time with no problem. I've tested with Nitecore protected 2600mah, Samsung 30Q IMR and 18650GA so I can rule out battery problems. Could it be the generic adapter? Thanks.


Are you using only the outer slots? When you put a cell in slot 2 or 3, charging current is limited to 500mA.


----------



## tsask

I have been EDCing my SC600w MkIII HI for about a month, and have to agree with what I have been seen written here quite a few times, It's incredible in its power, and quality of light! I am just starting to see some needs to change/customize some of the levels low/medium/ high etc. I have read the manual and think I could get it into the 'custom level' mode setting. My question now is* how to reset the factory default settings* ? (in case I screw something up while 'adjusting' the custom power levels)


----------



## tops2

I'm not sure if you can do a factory "reset". But you can't mess it up. Just basically keep double clicking till the light level changes (6 double clicks to enter the mode), and continue double clicking till the light level is what you want. Then single click to turn off and "program" that level.


----------



## wolfgaze

tsask said:


> I have been EDCing my SC600w MkIII HI for about a month, and have to agree with what I have been seen written here quite a few times, It's incredible in its power, and quality of light! I am just starting to see some needs to change/customize some of the levels low/medium/ high etc. I have read the manual and think I could get it into the 'custom level' mode setting. My question now is* how to reset the factory default settings* ? (in case I screw something up while 'adjusting' the custom power levels)



Don't worry there is nothing that you can 'screw up' with these lights....

For each mode *High/Medium/Low* you've got your Primary Output Levels (H1/M1/L1) which are set by the factory, and then you have the option of double-clicking within each mode and accessing one of multiple Secondary Output Levels (H2/M2/L2) - which of course you can customize to your liking by going through the 6 double-clicks procedure... You can never change the Primary Output levels (H1/M1/L1), those will always remain fixed. And all you are doing with the Secondary Output Levels for each mode is choosing/selecting which option you prefer to have active. For the High mode there are 3 secondary output levels to choose from, for Medium mode there are 2 secondary output levels to choose from, and for Low mode there are 3 secondary output levels to choose from. Whichever one you select stays in your light's memory for the secondary output level. If you want to change your setting for that secondary output level - you have to go through the double-clicks procedure again and choose from the available options...


----------



## tops2

Echoing wolfgaze, another way to think about this is there 3 main levels, low-medium-high. Each level basically has a "brighter" and "dimmer" levels. The programming is for the brightness of the "dimmer" level. The "brighter" level is the same. You can always change the "dimmer" level anytime to the preset levels.

Hopefully I didn't make it more confusing...


----------



## liteboy

Makes sense. My first ZL on the way so this is helpful


----------



## sidecross

wolfgaze said:


> I don't currently own this light, but if I end up getting the SC600 PLUS, I will be buying a Maxpedition 4" Flashlight Sheath to carry it in... Another CPF member confirms that the light fits well in it.....




+1 :thumbsup:


----------



## Hardpack26

Just received this light last week, and so far I'm very happy with the build quality, and power from this little guy. This is my fourth zebra light, and I'm a big fan of the UI and quality of these lights. So far I have been on the winning side of the tint lottery, but I'm wondering if I might have finally run out of luck. I'm seeing some greenish tint in mine. Especially when I compare it to other neutral or warm white xm-l2 bulbs. I've got an sc5 in neutral white and an eagletac tx25c2 in a warmer white that i'm comparing it to with noticeable greener tint in the mkiii HI. I've taken beamshots, I just need to find a image hosting site as this is my forst post on this forum. Anybody else notice anything like this?


----------



## Cobraman502

I have not seen this in mine.


----------



## twistedraven

Unfortunately I only have hi cri lights to compare it to, and all of them are higher cct with better red rendering. I do have the cool white MK3 to compare it with though, and the cool white shows green-purple transition in its beam, while the HI is just sepia toned throughout.


----------



## Cobraman502

A little off topic here but I just turned on my ZL and I cannot get over how great the spill is on this light. It is very useful and I consider it to be one of the best lights. Only wish the medium mode went a little higher than 61 lumen. Maybe 100 lumens with an option for 61, 28 and 10. Other than that best light ever!!!

Edit- oh and the battery test feature is so helpful too.


----------



## Hardpack26

I suppose it could be because this is my first light with the xhp-35 emitter. When I compare it's beam to my nichia 219 beams, the green is less noticeable. You know none of this tint stuff would have ever bothered me before paying so much attention to these forums.


----------



## Hardpack26

On a side note, have any of you noticed any denting of the unprotected cells that Zebralight sells when placed in this light. I have not dropped my light, but noticed this upon removal of battery. Battery used is the one in the middle, and is on the positive terminal.


----------



## drummer132132

Hardpack26 said:


> On a side note, have any of you noticed any denting of the unprotected cells that Zebralight sells when placed in this light. I have not dropped my light, but noticed this upon removal of battery. Battery used is the one in the middle, and is on the positive terminal.



Yeah, mine has dented as well. Battery came directly from zebralight. Hasn't affected use of light or battery from what I can tell.


----------



## Hardpack26

Here's pic.


----------



## Hardpack26

drummer132132 said:


> Yeah, mine has dented as well. Battery came directly from zebralight. Hasn't affected use of light or battery from what I can tell.



Yeah light still works perfectly.


----------



## Drift Monkey

No dents on mine.


----------



## newbie66

None on mine either.


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

NCR18650GA from NKON, no denting.


----------



## roger-roger

Hardpack26 said:


> Here's pic.




Thats the nature of its lightweight construction. I dropped one on the floor which caused a similar dent.


----------



## oKtosiTe

Same happened to one of my LG INR18650-MJ1's:








I don't remember ever dropping the SC600-III, yet if you click through on the left image, you can clearly see the shape of the three pogo pins dented into the positive end.
It didn't seem to have any negative impact on the battery's functioning in the light. Still, with a hook shaped soldering tool, I was able to bend out the terminal to be nearly flat again. Not really understanding why the metal has to be this thin, there's just a bunch of dead space beneath it.

(Side note: the closeup of the left picture also still makes me amazed at how far phone camera's have come in a short time. The picture was taken on my LG G4 international.)


----------



## twistedraven

The unprotected battery that came with my SC600 MKIII has dented in as well, and results in no contact with the light unless you're very particular about the direction you hold it-- needless to say it's unusable.

The unprotected battery that I bought from a 3rd party is still operating good though with no dents.


----------



## Connor

oKtosiTe said:


> Not really understanding why the metal has to be this thin, there's just a bunch of dead space beneath it.



I think it's "working as intended": as a crumple zone to make sure it's not the battery cylinder itself being crushed when dropped/inserted somewhere with (too) strong clamps or the like + protection for the venting predetermined breaking point maybe?


----------



## oKtosiTe

Connor said:


> I think it's "working as intended" as a crumple zone to make sure it's not the battery cylinder itself being crushed when dropped/inserted somewhere with (too) strong clamps or the like.


I get that, but I think it could still work like that with a positive end twice or three times as thick...


----------



## bkb

I just got my mklll a couple of days ago from andrew amanda. It came as a package deal with a Nitecore IMR battery, I figured I couldn't go wrong on the battery if it was a paired deal. The first time I put the battery in the cap went on very hard on the last turn. I took the end cap off and the negative end of the battery is dented in quite a bit with four marks from the prongs. The cap goes on good now and it seems to work fine, im more concerned about the light getting damaged than the battery. Other than that little glitch I love the light, its my new favorite light (I say this every time I get a new light).


----------



## jonnyfgroove

I wonder if one or more of the "pogo pins" might be binding up on these lights that are making dents? Just a thought. 

I bought three NCR18650GA from Illumn when I got the ZL. None are showing any signs of denting at all.


----------



## oKtosiTe

jonnyfgroove said:


> I wonder if one or more of the "pogo pins" might be binding up on these lights that are making dents? Just a thought.
> 
> I bought three NCR18650GA from Illumn when I got the ZL. None are showing any signs of denting at all.


Since bending out the positive end on my dented cell, I know how thin it is exactly. I'm now less surprised that it would bend like that. It's almost as thin as a beverage can. At that thickness very little force or impact would be needed to create dents like those.
I don't think Zebralight can be blamed, really, but I hope we'll see some compatible cells with stronger positive ends in the future.


----------



## kj2

Have my LG MJ1 battery in since I received the light. No dent so far, but do see three very slightly marks on the metal. But no indication it will dent soon.


----------



## Native89

jonnyfgroove said:


> I wonder if one or more of the "pogo pins" might be binding up on these lights that are making dents? Just a thought.
> 
> I bought three NCR18650GA from Illumn when I got the ZL. None are showing any signs of denting at all.



I also got my NCR's from Illumn and don't have any dented ends. Carried every day and even dropped once or twice in about a month.

Interesting thought on the binding pogo pins though. Maybe those who are affected can test this by removing the tailcap and seeing if there's any "give" when pushing the battery.


----------



## Hardpack26

Native89 said:


> I also got my NCR's from Illumn and don't have any dented ends. Carried every day and even dropped once or twice in about a month.
> 
> Interesting thought on the binding pogo pins though. Maybe those who are affected can test this by removing the tailcap and seeing if there's any "give" when pushing the battery.



Yeah there is still give. Pogo pins functioning properly.


----------



## GaryRanson

bkb said:


> I just got my mklll a couple of days ago from andrew amanda. It came as a package deal with a Nitecore IMR battery, I figured I couldn't go wrong on the battery if it was a paired deal. The first time I put the battery in the cap went on very hard on the last turn. I took the end cap off and the negative end of the battery is dented in quite a bit with four marks from the prongs. The cap goes on good now and it seems to work fine, im more concerned about the light getting damaged than the battery. Other than that little glitch I love the light, its my new favorite light (I say this every time I get a new light).



The Nitecore IMR has a length of 66.9mm and Zebralight specs 65-65.2 mm for this light.


----------



## oKtosiTe

Hardpack26 said:


> Yeah there is still give. Pogo pins functioning properly.


Same here.


----------



## bkb

I didn't like the tight fit of the nitecore battery even though it was working. Swapped it with a panasonic 18650b from my old original sc600. Much better fit.


----------



## SubLGT

Hardpack26 said:


> ...I'm seeing some greenish tint in mine. Especially when I compare it to other neutral or warm white xm-l2 bulbs….Anybody else notice anything like this?



See post #615


----------



## Native89

Any body notice this behavior on their Low Beacon mode?
Depending on if your light was last on L1 (3.3 Lumen) or L2 (0.37 Lumen) the beacon will either be bright or dim, respectively.
A little annoying when I'm not expecting that much light, but not too much to be an inconvenience.
Just an observation while playing with the light. Which I've been doing pretty much every day. 

Also, I spoke too soon on the dented battery. Dropped my light head first the other day from about 2-3 feet and left a slight dent in one of my NCR's.


----------



## drummer132132

Native89 said:


> Any body notice this behavior on their Low Beacon mode?
> Depending on if your light was last on L1 (3.3 Lumen) or L2 (0.37 Lumen) the beacon will either be bright or dim, respectively.
> A little annoying when I'm not expecting that much light, but not too much to be an inconvenience.
> Just an observation while playing with the light. Which I've been doing pretty much every day.
> 
> Also, I spoke too soon on the dented battery. Dropped my light head first the other day from about 2-3 feet and left a slight dent in one of my NCR's.



Just tested my low beacon after using L1 and L2. Can confirm the same thing. After turning off the light from L1 and then triple click to get to low beacon mode it's a brighter beacon. After turning off the light in L2 (I have it set for lowest setting) it's a super dim beacon. Not sure if intended but if I had to guess probably not. Doesn't affect me since I never use beacon but then again I've never had to yet.


----------



## Lou Minescence

Native89 said:


> Any body notice this behavior on their Low Beacon mode?
> Depending on if your light was last on L1 (3.3 Lumen) or L2 (0.37 Lumen) the beacon will either be bright or dim, respectively.
> A little annoying when I'm not expecting that much light, but not too much to be an inconvenience.
> Just an observation while playing with the light. Which I've been doing pretty much every day.
> 
> Also, I spoke too soon on the dented battery. Dropped my light head first the other day from about 2-3 feet and left a slight dent in one of my NCR's.



That is the correct operation. Low beacon comes on at the last low brightness used.


----------



## drummer132132

Lou Minescence said:


> That is the correct operation. Low beacon comes on at the last low brightness used.



Interesting, I figured it would make more sense to just have low beacon set as L1 instead of last used.


----------



## Lou Minescence

drummer132132 said:


> Interesting, I figured it would make more sense to just have low beacon set as L1 instead of last used.



I find the low flash mode very useful. Having the flashlight beacon at night in as low of a flash as you set is great. It's my favorite Zebralight feature.


----------



## PragmaticMurphyist

Lou Minescence said:


> That is the correct operation. Low beacon comes on at the last low brightness used.



Interesting. Thanks for the information.


----------



## Witterings

Has anybody got one of these and the Nitecore MH20Gt and if so any comparisons you can make between the two of them ... especially the differences in their beam pattern ???


----------



## scs

Witterings said:


> Has anybody got one of these and the Nitecore MH20Gt and if so any comparisons you can make between the two of them ... especially the differences in their beam pattern ???



FF to 9:32


----------



## markr6

If I may, here's a quicker comparison using mhalen's video...


----------



## Witterings

Excellent ... thank you both ... very useful!!!!

Certainly the NC does appear more focused so I guess which one is better will really depend what you want to use them for ... does anybody use either as a bicycle light, I'm guessing the Zebra would probably be better as you don't need to zoom out way in front.


----------



## markr6

Witterings said:


> Excellent ... thank you both ... very useful!!!!
> 
> Certainly the NC does appear more focused so I guess which one is better will really depend what you want to use them for ... does anybody use either as a bicycle light, I'm guessing the Zebra would probably be better as you don't need to zoom out way in front.



Possibly, but you don't want to blind anyone either. It would probably be a good idea to point it down a bit and mask some of the top with tape to block that spill on either of these lights.


----------



## CelticCross74

be careful about using these things as bike lights. Been a couple threads about this I think. Medium output would all you would really need.


----------



## PeterRamish

CelticCross74 said:


> be careful about using these things as bike lights. Been a couple threads about this I think. Medium output would all you would really need.



Yes, using the beams on Zebras as a bike light is fraught with issues. See a purpose built light. 
http://www.fenix-store.com/bike-lights/

On that site you will see many beam shots. The Zebras will NOT give you that type pattern. Also I note that Fenix does include STOBE mode on their bike lights, but the use of strobes is, in my estimation, very questionable and might even been illegal in some states. we probably best not high-jack this thread too much on this subject, as recently a discussion like this got moved to the CPF Bicycle forum. You might go over there for further discussion. See: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?86-Bicycle


----------



## CelticCross74

yes the new Fenix bike light is pretty impressive. There is a bike/walking trail that goes from Mt.Vernon Va where I live directly along the Potomac Rivers edge and goes into Maryland. Lots of accidents all the time people literally try to set speed records along the wooded trail at 2 in the morning miss a slight turn and wind up dead. Just walking along the trail towards dark the MkIII HI is my friend I of course do not try to blind the oncoming psycho speed bike riders I point the light at the ground on max as I try to make my way to my fishing spots


----------



## msim

PeterRamish said:


> using the beams on Zebras as a bike light is fraught with issues.



I've used my SC600w Mk II as a bike light before and it was fantastic. I've also used a neutral XM-L2 P60 setup. The beams are really fantastic for bike usage... nice amount a flood to see what's around you and still enough throw to see what's coming. I don't think that I would prefer to use my Mark III Hi as a first choice, but I've used some XP-G2 lights that have similar hotspots and it wasn't bad. 

Sure, 2 lights or something with two beams might help, but I definitely wouldn't say using the Zebralight or similar lights are 'fraught with issues.


----------



## tops2

msim said:


> I've used my SC600w Mk II as a bike light before and it was fantastic. I've also used a neutral XM-L2 P60 setup. The beams are really fantastic for bike usage... nice amount a flood to see what's around you and still enough throw to see what's coming. I don't think that I would prefer to use my Mark III Hi as a first choice, but I've used some XP-G2 lights that have similar hotspots and it wasn't bad.
> 
> Sure, 2 lights or something with two beams might help, but I definitely wouldn't say using the Zebralight or similar lights are 'fraught with issues.



I did remember seeing another thread with a newer member mentioning using Zebralight as a bike light and everyone was saying how it can be dangerous. Maybe the main issue is (the spill) blinding other on coming traffic/bikes/people and not as much for the bicyclist using the Zebralight?


----------



## markr6

markr6 said:


> Possibly, but you don't want to blind anyone either. It would probably be a good idea to point it down a bit and mask some of the top with tape to block that spill on either of these lights.





tops2 said:


> I did remember seeing another thread with a newer member mentioning using Zebralight as a bike light and everyone was saying how it can be dangerous. Maybe the main issue is (the spill) blinding other on coming traffic/bikes/people and not as much for the bicyclist using the Zebralight?



Yes, see above


----------



## Witterings

tops2 said:


> I did remember seeing another thread with a newer member mentioning using Zebralight as a bike light and everyone was saying how it can be dangerous. Maybe the main issue is (the spill) blinding other on coming traffic/bikes/people and not as much for the bicyclist using the Zebralight?



Firstly .... really didn't mean to hijack a thread as it was a specific question about this lights usability and what it may or may not be appropriate for but of a mod feels my question should be removed for any reason then please do!!

I wouldn't use it on high, it'd probably be at the 139 or possibly the 312 setting and would be pointed down and slightly towards the left / kerb (I'm UK based  ) ... but maybe the spill is too wide.

I currently use zoomies which give a focused light without much spill but their run time at reasonable output (250 approx) doesn't come close to this and hence my interest .. that said I may be better off with a designated cycling light and using this for a multitude of other things.


----------



## msim

tops2 said:


> I did remember seeing another thread with a newer member mentioning using Zebralight as a bike light and everyone was saying how it can be dangerous. Maybe the main issue is (the spill) blinding other on coming traffic/bikes/people and not as much for the bicyclist using the Zebralight?



The main concern in that thread was using the Strobe mode while using it as a bike light. 

Ok, back on topic. I love my SC600W III Hi


----------



## Ti²C

I finally put my hands on one, I was hesitant at the idea of having many copies of the "same" flashlight but I had to try the new xhp led.


----------



## ncristia

Can someone please tell me how to get this light back to default of starting on high.
Thank you.


----------



## twistedraven

Zebralight only offers one UI for their lights, a single click will always start the light on high. It might be you accidentally double clicked the high mode down to a H2 or H3, and it doesn't look like the full high to your eyes.

Once the light is on high, just double click and it will revert back to the original H1 of 1200 lumens.


----------



## StandardBattery

As twisted raven tried to explain; but if you are not familiar with the UI I think the explanation may not have made complete sense, although hopefully the instructions did. Here is my simplified version without explanation of what happened or the multiple meaning of High.

From off: single click ... if you are not at High as you perceive it should be do a double-click. If the light increased you are now at H1 High (the brightest). If it decreased you were already at the highest output before the double click (so double click again to return back to that High). If you still don't think you have the max level, check your battery. High can often require a very good battery, that still have a good charge level.

Let us know if you got it back to where you wanted it.


----------



## twistedraven

Yes the battery is another thing to consider. Zebralights have low voltage detection and cut-off. When the battery is low, it will only output its medium brightness at max, when the battery is dangerously low, it will cut off and not even output light.

If the battery isn't a high quality unprotected cell, it might not even output the necessary amount of amps to even reach the highest output when it isn't fully charged (Zebralights use boost drivers, so it demands more out of the battery at lower charge capacities to make keep constant output-- unlike a light with direct drive, that just slowly degrades in brightness as the battery lowers in charge.)


----------



## ncristia

It worked as explained. Thank you very much.


----------



## Tachead

Does anyone use the Sony VTC6 in their HI? How does it fit? Thanks.


----------



## INFRNL

How does the hi compare to the plus? I have the plus in nw.

I'm guessing the high has a little more throw but less spill?


----------



## Tachead

INFRNL said:


> How does the hi compare to the plus? I have the plus in nw.
> 
> I'm guessing the high has a little more throw but less spill?



They are very different animals. The HI will have *WAY *more throw and yes a dimmer spill. Maybe someone who owns both can post some beam shots. You can find some beamshots in their individual threads(including this one) too.

Here is one of the HI courtesy of markr6. The tower is 110 feet high.


----------



## Connor

Hey markr6, you should absolutely do the now famous tower shot with the Fd III Plus! :twothumbs


----------



## Witterings

INFRNL said:


> How does the hi compare to the plus? I have the plus in nw.
> 
> I'm guessing the high has a little more throw but less spill?





I haven't had a plus but to try and give some idea what's these are I think it's an incredibly usable "In Between" light ..... 


A Nitecore MH20GT is much more a hard core thrower but doesn't have much spill / flood so whilst nothing comes close to that for
shooting I don't really like it as an everyday torch as you can see way ahead but it doesn't light up what's immediately around you to the sides.


I genuinely think these are an incredibly good everyday torch for dog walking, cycling etc that you can see a long way off when 
needed (but not as far as some) but also has quite a reasonable spill.


Hope that's of some help.


----------



## Tachead

Connor said:


> Hey markr6, you should absolutely do the now famous tower shot with the Fd III Plus! :twothumbs


I think he sold it.


----------



## INFRNL

Thanks guys. I'm an idiot and think i have posted false info in couple of places.

I do have the mkiii hi. I believe the plus is the flood version with frosted lens?

Also did zl update some info on their site. I could have sworn when i ordered it said 4400k hicri. Now it just says 4500k xhp35. Mine is nw by the way

Wow, I feel like an idiot right now


----------



## twistedraven

Zebralight has never had a 4400k light with HICRI.


----------



## Tachead

INFRNL said:


> Thanks guys. I'm an idiot and think i have posted false info in couple of places.
> 
> I do have the mkiii hi. I believe the plus is the flood version with frosted lens?
> 
> Also did zl update some info on their site. I could have sworn when i ordered it said 4400k hicri. Now it just says 4500k xhp35. Mine is nw by the way
> 
> Wow, I feel like an idiot right now



The SC600w MKIII HI used to be listed at 4400K but, ZL has now changed it to 4500K. It has always been 80 CRI nominal.


----------



## INFRNL

Thanks again. I must have been doing too much research and got all my info mixed up somehow.

Either way i really like the tint and beam on mine. The tint is very close to the nichia 219b eagtac d25c ti i just got. Its either 4500k or 4700k. They are only a shade ott from each other.


----------



## Tachead

INFRNL said:


> Thanks again. I must have been doing too much research and got all my info mixed up somehow.
> 
> Either way i really like the tint and beam on mine. The tint is very close to the nichia 219b eagtac d25c ti i just got. Its either 4500k or 4700k. They are only a shade ott from each other.




No problem. I was talking about the HI by the way. Your Plus is 5000K(give or take for binning tolerance) and is 93-95CRI. 

Glad you like it man, enjoy:thumbsup:.


----------



## INFRNL

Tachead said:


> No problem. I was talking about the HI by the way. Your Plus is 5000K(give or take for binning tolerance) and is 93-95CRI.
> 
> Glad you like it man, enjoy:thumbsup:.



I actually have the HI, I don't know why i thought it was a plus.

Is there any other zebralight that has the same spill and throw of the mkiii hi but slimmer package? (ie, sc62 or 63) or is it in a league of it's own?


----------



## oeL

INFRNL said:


> Is there any other zebralight that has the same spill and throw of the mkiii hi but slimmer package? (ie, sc62 or 63) or is it in a league of it's own?



SC63(w) XPH35 is using the "D" variant of the LED Emitter. In conjunction with the smaller reflector the hotspot is much broader. A nice EDC for walking around, but it misses the throw capabilities of the SC600(w)MKIII HI. Both fine lights, each a class of it's own.


----------



## Witterings

INFRNL said:


> I actually have the HI, I don't know why i thought it was a plus.
> 
> Is there any other zebralight that has the same spill and throw of the mkiii hi but slimmer package? (ie, sc62 or 63) or is it in a league of it's own?



I'd love it if they did a SC52 size version .... I realise it'd never throw like a bigger 18650 but a AA version with a "decent" throw would be brilliant.


----------



## Tachead

oeL said:


> SC63(w) *XPH35 is using the "D" variant of the LED Emitter.* In conjunction with the smaller reflector the hotspot is much broader. A nice EDC for walking around, but it misses the throw capabilities of the SC600(w)MKIII HI. Both fine lights, each a class of it's own.



This is a bit misleading. Zebralight uses the term "d" to describe lights that use a 5000K high CRI emitter. I think you mean "HD"(High Density) which is the regular dome version of the XHP35 vs the "HI" version which uses a domeless(flat emitter covering) design. 

The SC63w uses a 4500K XHP35 HD(regular dome) 80CRI nominal emitter. The HD version emitter is not optimized for throw like the HI version in your light INFRNL. So, you will automatically loose throw with the HD emitter. You will also loose throw due to the SC63w using a much smaller and more shallow reflector that has a more aggressive orange peel texturing then your HI. The SC63 is a much more floody light with a brighter spill and a larger more diffused hotspot. 

Here are a couple of comparisons of the SC63w vs the SC600w MKIII HI on H1(highest output setting) for you courtesy of run4jc and TheRealSpinner. As you can see the beam profiles are quite different.

SC63w





SC600w MKIII HI





SC63w





SC600w MKIII HI


----------



## drummer132132

I have the plus and the hi. The hi is used all the time. Due to the orange peel reflector it has very good spill. Obviously not as floody as the plus but for edc and most flexibility it's a winner.


----------



## Ozythemandias

I have the sc600fd plus and the mk3 hi. Despite almost all use going to the FD, I cant bring myself to sell the Hi


----------



## Tachead

Tachead said:


> Does anyone use the Sony VTC6 in their HI? How does it fit? Thanks.


Anyone?


----------



## INFRNL

I can tell you in about 3 weeks if noone responds...have some arriving but will not be home for nearly 3 weeks


Tachead said:


> Anyone?


----------



## Tachead

INFRNL said:


> I can tell you in about 3 weeks if noone responds...have some arriving but will not be home for nearly 3 weeks


Ok, thank you[emoji106]


----------



## jgmoosehunter

Can anyone tell me the difference in throw between the SC600w MK III HI and the SC600 MK III in Cool White? I am really torn between these 2 lights. Does the cool white tint on a Zebra compare with an Olight S1 baton? I have an S1 baton and I absolutely have no issue with that tint. I've only owned Zebralights in neutral and am not familiar with their cool white tints. I appreciate any feedback.


----------



## twistedraven

Zebralight cool white tints are more along the lines of cool-neutral white. Think of same color temperature as midday direct sunlight, only it won't have all that inherent warmth that sunlight has from deep red rendering ability.
n
The neutral white Zebralights in the 4500k range, just think of them as fluorescents that you would find in a big retail store.


----------



## jgmoosehunter

So how do the beams compare between the MK III HI and cool white?


----------



## swan

jgmoosehunter said:


> Can anyone tell me the difference in throw between the SC600w MK III HI and the SC600 MK III in Cool White? I am really torn between these 2 lights. Does the cool white tint on a Zebra compare with an Olight S1 baton? I have an S1 baton and I absolutely have no issue with that tint. I've only owned Zebralights in neutral and am not familiar with their cool white tints. I appreciate any feedback.



The throw distances are approx,

SC600 MK111 cw 13000 candela [ 228 metres ] measured by me

SC600 MK111 hi 17000 - 18000 [ 260 - 268 metres ] as reported by others

My mk 111 cw [5700k] i would classify as more neutral than cool white with an even tint across the beam. The tint is more warm than my olight s1 in cool white but cooler than my S1 titanium in neutral.

The hi wins slightly in throw but the cw has more lumens-

I really love my standard mk111 and appreciate the big spill, even beam profile and do not find my self wanting the hi for an extra 40 metres of throw.


----------



## scs

jgmoosehunter said:


> So how do the beams compare between the MK III HI and cool white?



http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/25-zebralight-lampen-im-beamshotvergleich.50095/


----------



## sigsegv

Tachead said:


> _Does anyone use the Sony VTC6 in their HI? How does it fit? Thanks._



I just threw a VTC6 in mine and it's a good fit. It has the typical gentle rattle if you shake the light side to side due to the slight diameter difference between the tube and battery. Nothing that an additional layer of PVC shrink won't tighten up.


----------



## Tachead

sigsegv said:


> I just threw a VTC6 in mine and it's a good fit. It has the typical gentle rattle if you shake the light side to side due to the slight diameter difference between the tube and battery. Nothing that an additional layer of PVC shrink won't tighten up.




Thanks:thumbsup:. I figured it might have a bit more rattle then the GA because it is 0.15mm thinner in diameter. An extra layer of heat shrink is an easy fix like you said.


----------



## jgmoosehunter

Thanks for all the input. I am sounding like a total newbie, but I am just amazed at how engaged the members are here and so quick to respond to even the most naive question a new member may have. So very, very glad I found this forum. Thanks to all!!

jgmoose


----------



## snowlover91

Brief report on the durability of my MK3 HI. I preordered this when it first came out and received it mid-February 2016 if I remember correctly. Since then it has become my go to light. It's been dropped several times on concrete, many times on hardwood floors, used in snow/ice and in our 100+ degree humid days in the summer. My 1 year old also got ahold of it, she loves flashlights, and dropped it for good measure. I can say I'm pleased with how the anodizing and light is holding up. There is one tiny spot of ano missing from hitting concrete but otherwise it looks like new and still works great despite all the abuse. Definitely a classic ZL and the best one they've made imo.


----------



## PTT

Re the Sanyo NCR18650GA (particularly the one sold by ZL) in the SC600w Mk III HI, has anyone had any problems/issues with fit (too long, rattle)? Thanks.


----------



## Romwar

PTT said:


> Re the Sanyo NCR18650GA (particularly the one sold by ZL) in the SC600w Mk III HI, has anyone had any problems/issues with fit (too long, rattle)? Thanks.



I'm having an issue with dented batteries related to dropping the light, quick fix is to try to pry the top of the battery back into proper position but its getting progressively worse for me. I carry this light daily at work since just after its release so its gets a lot of use and I've dropped it several times, the highest drop was from 9 feet onto hardwood, and other than the battery the light is great. There has always been a little side rattle, never bothered me but I'm sure its easy to fix.

I would like to know which battery experienced users of this light are using that could permanently resolve the dented battery problem.

I should add that once the battery is indented all it takes is a slight shake of the light and it shuts off. I would assume that is due to the battery being too short to maintain steady contact under movement.


----------



## noboneshotdog

Romwar said:


> I'm having an issue with dented batteries related to dropping the light, quick fix is to try to pry the top of the battery back into proper position but its getting progressively worse for me. I carry this light daily at work since just after its release so its gets a lot of use and I've dropped it several times, the highest drop was from 9 feet onto hardwood, and other than the battery the light is great. There has always been a little side rattle, never bothered me but I'm sure its easy to fix.
> 
> I would like to know which battery experienced users of this light are using that could permanently resolve the dented battery problem.
> 
> I should add that once the battery is indented all it takes is a slight shake of the light and it shuts off. I would assume that is due to the battery being too short to maintain steady contact under movement.



I'm having the same issue with dented GA batteries too. I never had this problem before the pogo pins were adopted by ZL. This was a non issue with my older MKII with the springs. The battery denting is my only grip.


----------



## drummer132132

Same for dented batteries. I too think the pogo pins are the culprit.


----------



## Tachead

Romwar said:


> I'm having an issue with dented batteries related to dropping the light, quick fix is to try to pry the top of the battery back into proper position but its getting progressively worse for me. I carry this light daily at work since just after its release so its gets a lot of use and I've dropped it several times, the highest drop was from 9 feet onto hardwood, and other than the battery the light is great. There has always been a little side rattle, never bothered me but I'm sure its easy to fix.
> 
> I would like to know which battery experienced users of this light are using that could permanently resolve the dented battery problem.
> 
> I should add that once the battery is indented all it takes is a slight shake of the light and it shuts off. I would assume that is due to the battery being too short to maintain steady contact under movement.



No battery is going to solve this issue. This is the downside of any light that doesn't use a duel spring design. Without springs there is nothing to absorb shock and cushion the battery from damage. Unfortunately this design decision has made ZL's new line of flashlights(SC600 MKIII/SC63 series) inferior compared to their headlamps and old flashlights when it comes to durability/reliability. I have said since these new models were announced that I thought this new design choice was a bad decision on ZL's part. Sacrificing durability/reliability and battery compatibility is just not worth the trade off just to make a light a few millimeters shorter imo. I personally hope they go back to their old duel spring design going forward.

These lights are still awesome however and have many great aspects but, I just don't think they are the greatest choice for hard use or when durability/reliability are paramount. If you need a tough and ultra reliable light for work, I recommend a Malkoff MDC, Malkoff MD2, Elzetta Alpha, Elzetta Bravo, or the new Elzetta Bones. All of these choices will be far tougher and more reliable then any ZL.


----------



## Fireclaw18

Tachead said:


> No battery is going to solve this issue. This is the downside of any light that doesn't use a duel spring design. Without springs there is nothing to absorb shock and cushion the battery from damage. Unfortunately this design decision has made ZL's new line of flashlights(SC600 MKIII/SC63 series) inferior compared to their headlamps and old flashlights when it comes to durability/reliability. I have said since these new models were announced that I thought this new design choice was a bad decision on ZL's part. Sacrificing durability/reliability and battery compatibility is just not worth the trade off just to make a light a few millimeters shorter imo. I personally hope they go back to their old duel spring design going forward.
> 
> These lights are still awesome however and have many great aspects but, I just don't think they are the greatest choice for hard use or when durability/reliability are paramount. If you need a tough and ultra reliable light for work, I recommend a Malkoff MDC, Malkoff MD2, Elzetta Alpha, Elzetta Bravo, or the new Elzetta Bones. All of these choices will be far tougher and more reliable then any ZL.



It's a tradeoff. Zebralight tends to build for compactness. Sure they could have used double springs but then the light would have probably been 5mm or more longer.

I'm impressed that the light continued working and suffered no damage after a 9' drop.

However, I also agree that if you want a worklight where durability is key you're going to need a heavier duty light like those mentioned in the post above. If you want a cheap durable light go with something like those old Rayovac Indestructible lights. Sure a large plastic light covered with rubber bumpers may be really ugly and not very bright, but it will probably continue to work no matter how you drop it.


----------



## Connor

Someone in another thread mentioned he added a loose o-ring of the appropriate diameter and thickness[1] to the top of the 18650 cell. 
It has to be just the right thickness so that it doesn't impede the electrical contact but adds extra cushoning in case of a drop.

1. IIRC it was something like 16 mm diameter and 1.5 mm thick


----------



## eraursls1984

Tachead said:


> ...I personally hope they go back to their old duel spring design going forward.


I'm pretty sure the MK II's only had a single spring, I'll check mine when I get home. The MK I had dual springs.


----------



## noboneshotdog

I brought my MKII to work with me for a few years without issue and dropped it too many times to count. It was used and abused and never had a battery dent even once. That light COULD take abuse without ANY problems. I'm contemplating another as I sold my MKII to a coworker for cheap money when my MKIII arrived.


----------



## Tachead

eraursls1984 said:


> I'm pretty sure the MK II's only had a single spring, I'll check mine when I get home. The MK I had dual springs.


Nope, MKII's have duel springs. MKI's only had a negative spring and a button positive. All their headlamps still have duel springs as well including the MKIII's.


----------



## Offgridled

Tachead said:


> Nope, MKII's have duel springs. MKI's only had a negative spring and a button positive. All their headlamps still have duel springs as well including the MKIII's.


+1


----------



## eraursls1984

Tachead said:


> Nope, MKII's have duel springs. MKI's only had a negative spring and a button positive. All their headlamps still have duel springs as well including the MKIII's.


Yep, just checked. It's the SC52w and SC52w L2 that don't have a spring on the positive side.


----------



## Romwar

I have no intention of replacing this light even with the battery trouble I have experienced. In my opinion there is no replacement to this light when you compare the combination of size, beam tint/profile, max brightness, runtimes, and mode selection. Despite the battery, the flashlight has held up well to daily use and abuse and it fits so easily into the side pocket in my work pants. The interface is so simple to use also, I was hesitant before I bought my first Zebra but it really is great. I own four Zebras now :thumbsup:



Connor said:


> Someone in another thread mentioned he added a loose o-ring of the appropriate diameter and thickness[1] to the top of the 18650 cell.





Connor said:


> It has to be just the right thickness so that it doesn't impede the electrical contact but adds extra cushoning in case of a drop.
> 
> 1. IIRC it was something like 16 mm diameter and 1.5 mm thick



I have been thinking that adding some type of bumper inside the head of the light might actually work but I haven't gotten around to trying this yet. I will have to get creative in the garage this weekend and see if I can design something.


----------



## snowlover91

Mine are dented in the top, however no issues with it losing contact when dropped. Part of the problem is the batteries use such thin/weak metal that isn't really designed to take much pressure. When the tail cap is screwed on it usually results in a slight indent of the battery near the + end as it tightens up to hold the battery in place. I'm assuming that when dropped this is what causes the indent to get worse. 

However the MK3 Plus model I bought doesn't do this. Maybe ZL was able to get the tolerances close enough to keep this from happening, or maybe I just got a good sample? Would be interested to see if anyone with the MK3 Plus has the battery denting or if the MK3 HI is the main model that does it.


----------



## noboneshotdog

snowlover91 said:


> Mine are dented in the top, however no issues with it losing contact when dropped. Part of the problem is the batteries use such thin/weak metal that isn't really designed to take much pressure. When the tail cap is screwed on it usually results in a slight indent of the battery near the + end as it tightens up to hold the battery in place. I'm assuming that when dropped this is what causes the indent to get worse.
> 
> However the MK3 Plus model I bought doesn't do this. Maybe ZL was able to get the tolerances close enough to keep this from happening, or maybe I just got a good sample? Would be interested to see if anyone with the MK3 Plus has the battery denting or if the MK3 HI is the main model that does it.



My MKIII plus batteries are dented. Didn't happen until the light was dropped. But they are undoubtedly dented pretty significantly.


----------



## PocketLight88

Mine are dented as well after I dropped it on concrete. After that I noticed it would shut off if I would shake it due to not making electrical contact with the batteries. I took a screwdriver and very gently propped up the positive side and was surprised at how soft the metal is at the top. It will not shut the light off now if I shake it. I feel like button top batteries wouldn't have this issue but I could be wrong.


----------



## Connor

Just thinking out loud here .. maybe an appropriate blob of hot glue "injected" between the + contact and the cell would work against denting?


----------



## Romwar

Connor said:


> Just thinking out loud here .. maybe an appropriate blob of hot glue "injected" between the + contact and the cell would work against denting?



I agree this may stop the dent but the force of impact would be transferred to the pins even more, possible damage to the assembly.


----------



## INFRNL

Not sure if you found your answer or went ahead and ordered the VTC6, but they fit just fine without issue. I did not put the calipers on them but the sanyo GA, LG MJ1, & VTC6 all appear to be the same length and dia.



Tachead said:


> Does anyone use the Sony VTC6 in their HI? How does it fit? Thanks.


----------



## Tachead

INFRNL said:


> Not sure if you found your answer or went ahead and ordered the VTC6, but they fit just fine without issue. I did not put the calipers on them but the sanyo GA, LG MJ1, & VTC6 all appear to be the same length and dia.


Good to know they work well. Yeah, I think they are all pretty close in specs with the VTC6 just being a bit thinner in diameter then the rest. I have now decided not to get a MKIII HI however. I am going to wait to see what ZL has to offer later this year and then decide what I want to get. Thanks for your reply:thumbsup:.


----------



## INFRNL

Yeah, I'm curious to see what they bring. Only thing I could ask for (besides figuring out what headlight I want) would be something similar to the MKIII HI with a bit more throw without losing the spill that the HI has. Otherwise I only ask to be able to reprogram the H1 settings along with H2 settings 



Tachead said:


> Good to know they work well. Yeah, I think they are all pretty close in specs with the VTC6 just being a bit thinner in diameter then the rest. I have now decided not to get a MKIII HI however. I am going to wait to see what ZL has to offer later this year and then decide what I want to get. Thanks for your reply:thumbsup:.


----------



## Tachead

INFRNL said:


> Yeah, I'm curious to see what they bring. Only thing I could ask for (besides figuring out what headlight I want) would be something similar to the MKIII HI with a bit more throw without losing the spill that the HI has. Otherwise I only ask to be able to reprogram the H1 settings along with H2 settings



Me too, a programmable UI sounds interesting. As for headlamps, I highly recommend the H600Fc or Fd MKIII. I have both and they are the best all around 18650 headlamps that ZL makes imo. Not too throwy, not too floody and you can't beat the tint of the 2-step MacAdam Ellipse emitters. Just chose your flavour 4000 or 5000K:thumbsup:.


----------



## INFRNL

Thanks.

I ended up doing a little test because I had some weird behavior from the panny GA's. So I ended up picking up some VTC6's and LG MJ11's. The weird behavior was with minimal use at times I would turn on the light to H1 and it would drop output dramatically. I am not sure why the drop ends up way lower than H2; more like M1 or possibly even lower than that. I will have to continue testing but I did an H1 runtime test using these 3 cells.

Test was H1 constant run till it dropped output to default lower level (all cells brand new and fully charged)
GA =2:18:47.70
VTC6=1:44:17.43
MJ11=2:35:54.28

I could have swore i read he VT6 performed better than the others and would last longer before dropping out. Obviously with this particular test capacity really helps. 3100mah vs 3500mah= 34-51 min longer on 3500mah. Looks like I'll have to pick up more MJ11's. Going to have to see if these results replicate the same on other lights/emitters. 



Tachead said:


> Me too, a programmable UI sounds interesting. As for headlamps, I highly recommend the H600Fc or Fd MKIII. I have both and they are the best all around 18650 headlamps that ZL makes imo. Not too throwy, not too floody and you can't beat the tint of the 2-step MacAdam Ellipse emitters. Just chose your flavour 4000 or 5000K:thumbsup:.


----------



## Connor

INFRNL said:


> I could have swore i read he VT6 performed better than the others and would last longer before dropping out. Obviously with this particular test capacity really helps. 3100mah vs 3500mah= 34-51 min longer on 3500mah. Looks like I'll have to pick up more MJ11's. Going to have to see if these results replicate the same on other lights/emitters.



Mind that the ZLs are PID controlled and step down quickly from H1 and leave the "high drain area of use" where the VT6 would be better. If you repeat the test with your flashlight heavily cooled down, e.g. submersed in a bucket with ice water, the outcome should be different.


----------



## INFRNL

Connor said:


> Mind that the ZLs are PID controlled and step down quickly from H1 and leave the "high drain area of use" where the VT6 would be better. If you repeat the test with your flashlight heavily cooled down, e.g. submersed in a bucket with ice water, the outcome should be different.


I'm not sure i follow you exactly. During my little test(granted this was inside) the light never got overly warm and The times posted are from H1 to initial drop. I let the light cool between tests and the VT6 was the first tested from being unused. Panny/LG had roughly 1-2 min cool down which seemed to be plenty.

I would say 1.75hrs before first drop is pretty good, 2.25 for panny/sanyo... Not sure If I want to spend another 6-7 hrs. My garage is currently 35-40deg f. I suppose I could try to retest at least the VT6 and one of the others. I'll report back


by the way, what initially started this and could possibly me. I am always on the road and use my lights at night when letting the dog run around. It could very well be my imagination but I was originally using the panny/sanyo GA cells. I would use H1 here and there and M1. If i had to guess total use was only a few minutes. After a few times of this(3), The next time i would turn the light on to H1 and it would drop down dramatically after a 2-3 seconds. I believe all other levels still worked fine, just the issue on H1. This would make me believe the battery didn't have enough juice to run that level. Ambient temps in 20-30deg F range.
A new battery would resolve this behavior but would replicate in a similar fashion.

So I heard the LG and VTC6 were better cells, so I bought some to try. I will have to see how these cells do in actual real life use. I do not ever run my lights for extended periods as i did in this little test. Its usually just a few minutes at a time total runtime but not continuous. There is obviously something weird going on if the GA can run for 2.25 hrs straight on H1 but after a few real uses it drops down to levels well below M1 after a couple seconds of turning on. 

Either way, I will report back after retesting in colder climate, then again after I get back to work in real world use.


----------



## Connor

Your Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI doesn't stay at the same brightness on H1. It is temperature controlled and reduces the brightness (and the LED current) quite a bit after 1-2 minutes.
The VT6 battery is superior only in high drain usage and the Zebralight only has a (rather) high drain in those first 1-2 minutes (unless you cool it heavily) so it's to be expected that the higher capacity Panasonic and LG cells work better in this flashlight.

If your light wasn't hot and the battery almost full it shouldn't drop in brightness after just a few seconds, something may be wrong with either the flashlight or the battery.


----------



## INFRNL

Connor said:


> Your Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI doesn't stay at the same brightness on H1. It is temperature controlled and reduces the brightness (and the LED current) quite a bit after 1-2 minutes.
> The VT6 battery is superior only in high drain usage and the Zebralight only has a (rather) high drain in those first 1-2 minutes (unless you cool it heavily) so it's to be expected that the higher capacity Panasonic and LG cells work better in this flashlight.
> 
> If your light wasn't hot and the battery almost full it shouldn't drop in brightness after just a few seconds, something may be wrong with either the flashlight or the battery.


I honestly couldn't tell you what the battery voltage was when the major drop occurred. I'll check the voltage next time this happens. It could be very possible that i used the light more than i thought and the voltage was low enough to cause this behavior.

What would be a better light to test with, that would provide a longer high current drain? I do not have any special test equipment, just my eyes. When i did this test, I did not see any kind of change in output from initial turn on until the times reported. When i saw a change it output it was dramatic, same as what i mentioned about the times where it drops dramatically after 2-3 seconds. If the output drops after 1-2 minutes it must be continuously variable rather than a step down, cause My eyes swear that it puts out the same brightness continuously till this major drop after 1.75 hrs. Not trying to argue or start anything, just telling you what my eyes see. Maybe i am just not noticing it but it is putting out a great deal of light the entire time, till the drop happens.

I guess i need some kind of meter so I can test initial output and continue to monitor the output as time passes to the major drop. Thanks for the additional info. I guess either way, all 3 seem to be very good cells

EDIT: is there an app that can somewhat accurately measure the output of a light? I thought i read somewhere in the threads that someone found one, but can't recall where i saw/read it

Ok, I think I can tell the difference and when i shine another light next to it, i can clearly see that it's not putting out it's max but it's still very bright.


----------



## Connor

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keuwl.lightmeter should work. Note that you cannot measure lumens directly (you need a very expensive integrating sphere), only lux. 
Most of us do a "ceiling bounce" to measure lux/estimate lumens. Put the light on the ground and shine it on the ceiling, put your measurement device next to the flashlight and measure (only) the reflected light from the ceiling.

Zebralights can sustain about 400-600 lumens output depending on the ambient temperature and whether you are holding it in your hand or not.


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## INFRNL

Connor said:


> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keuwl.lightmeter should work. Note that you cannot measure lumens directly (you need a very expensive integrating sphere), only lux.
> Most of us do a "ceiling bounce" to measure lux/estimate lumens. Put the light on the ground and shine it on the ceiling, put your measurement device next to the flashlight and measure (only) the reflected light from the ceiling.
> 
> Zebralights can sustain about 400-600 lumens output depending on the ambient temperature and whether you are holding it in your hand or not.


Thanks again, i appreciate it. I may also leave the testing to others that know what they are doing and have the experience. I thought I had something going...haha.


----------



## swan

Try adjusting the pid controller to its highest value-see if this makes a difference.

It may be at the lowest -5 degree setting. Zebralight have instructions on how to do this.


----------



## recDNA

Tachead said:


> No battery is going to solve this issue. This is the downside of any light that doesn't use a duel spring design. Without springs there is nothing to absorb shock and cushion the battery from damage. Unfortunately this design decision has made ZL's new line of flashlights(SC600 MKIII/SC63 series) inferior compared to their headlamps and old flashlights when it comes to durability/reliability. I have said since these new models were announced that I thought this new design choice was a bad decision on ZL's part. Sacrificing durability/reliability and battery compatibility is just not worth the trade off just to make a light a few millimeters shorter imo. I personally hope they go back to their old duel spring design going forward.
> 
> These lights are still awesome however and have many great aspects but, I just don't think they are the greatest choice for hard use or when durability/reliability are paramount. If you need a tough and ultra reliable light for work, I recommend a Malkoff MDC, Malkoff MD2, Elzetta Alpha, Elzetta Bravo, or the new Elzetta Bones. All of these choices will be far tougher and more reliable then any ZL.


Agreed.


----------



## Lumencrazy

Any design, that, by its very nature starts causing immediate damage to something as important as the battery terminal is fundamentally flawed. My Panasonic 18650GA battery terminals are all dented (some quite severely) after constant use. I dropped one light (on a carpet) and it is now difficult to get the battery to contact consistently on my Xtar charger. This is not a good design. One can debate all day long about how little or how much. But the fact that the very battery/flashlight system leads to continued deformation of the positive terminal of something as important as the battery itself is evidence of poor engineering. All in pursuit of one objective: a shorter overall length.


----------



## Connor

Lumencrazy said:


> All in pursuit of one objective: a shorter overall length.



That's not the only objective, though: pogo pins offer better electrical contact and less resistance.


----------



## Tachead

Connor said:


> That's not the only objective, though: pogo pins offer better electrical contact and less resistance.



A duel spring design or a single spring with bypass works just as well, if not better, with none of the many negatives that the pogo pins have. People tried to use the less resistance excuse early on saying it was necessary for the higher output and voltage of the XHP35 ZL's, then the SC63 came out with a spring tailcap. This was a design decision by ZL to shorten the light by 4mm's. There are no other positives to this design and many negatives compared to other designs they could have used.


----------



## Connor

Well, some scientific data would be helpful here, maybe someone can chime in: 

- how much less resistance is there when pogo pins are used?
-> compared to single/dual/bypassed springs
- how are the manufacturing costs for pogo pins/springs/dual springs/bypassed springs?
- how do springs age over time when high currents are run through them?


----------



## Tachead

Connor said:


> Well, some scientific data would be helpful here, maybe someone can chime in:
> 
> - how much less resistance is there when pogo pins are used?
> -> compared to single/dual/bypassed springs
> - how are the manufacturing costs for pogo pins/springs/dual springs/bypassed springs?
> - how do springs age over time when high currents are run through them?



Well, I can't give you any scientific data but, I can tell you that springs(single/duel/bypassed/etc.) have been used for decades and are used in lights with several times more current draw and output then any ZL has. They have proven not only to handle high currents well and provide great contact with cells but, also to be very durable and last pretty much forever. Also, springs and bypasses are a solid heavy gauge conductor unlike pogo pins which have a tiny(very thin gauge) spring inside and rely on the walls of their pistons for conduction as well. Over time and due to lateral stress caused by screwing the tailcap on and off I suspect the piston and piston housing of the pogo pins will make less and less contact due to wear. This will lower the contact area and increase resistance. Springs don't have this problem. I won't even go into all the other downsides of pogo pins because they have been talked about in detail many times before. 

The bottom line is, the only major benefit pogo pins offer over other designs is their ability to allow for a shorter battery tube. It is up to the consumer to decide if they want to sacrifice all the benefits of other designs just to have a 4mm shorter light. 

I for one will take a 4mm longer light with better battery compatibility, higher reliability, less battery rattle, better battery protection that doesn't damage my cells, and a durable time tested/proven design any day of the week. YMMV of course.


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## Lumencrazy

The more current the thicker the springs on the battery terminal. You can even find published engineering data on wire diameter vs. max. current flow. This is old (really really old) knowledge! Older than all of us on this forum. The basic principle in the operation of a light bulb.


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## recDNA

Tachead said:


> Well, I can't give you any scientific data but, I can tell you that springs(single/duel/bypassed/etc.) have been used for decades and are used in lights with several times more current draw and output then any ZL has. They have proven not only to handle high currents well and provide great contact with cells but, also to be very durable and last pretty much forever. Also, springs and bypasses are a solid heavy gauge conductor unlike pogo pins which have a tiny(very thin gauge) spring inside and rely on the walls of their pistons for conduction as well. Over time and due to lateral stress caused by screwing the tailcap on and off I suspect the piston and piston housing of the pogo pins will make less and less contact due to wear. This will lower the contact area and increase resistance. Springs don't have this problem. I won't even go into all the other downsides of pogo pins because they have been talked about in detail many times before.
> 
> The bottom line is, the only major benefit pogo pins offer over other designs is their ability to allow for a shorter battery tube. It is up to the consumer to decide if they want to sacrifice all the benefits of other designs just to have a 4mm shorter light.
> 
> I for one will take a 4mm longer light with better battery compatibility, higher reliability, less battery rattle, better battery protection that doesn't damage my cells, and a durable time tested/proven design any day of the week. YMMV of course.


This site needs a thumbs up button. Thumbs up!


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## INFRNL

kind of like this:twothumbs???


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## snowlover91

What's interesting to me is in the SC63 they decided to keep the pogo pins at the head and a spring for the tail cap. The MK3 Plus they went with pogo pins on both. I have no idea why the discrepancy or what was behind the different decisions. Maybe someone should email ZL and seek clarification?


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## scs

Unless I recall the specs incorrectly, the pogo pins at both ends configuration does not perform better in output or runtime than the configuration with a spring at one end and pogo pins at the other. Would switching the pogo pins to the tail end and spring to the head end lessen or eliminate the cell denting problem?


----------



## snowlover91

scs said:


> Unless I recall the specs incorrectly, the pogo pins at both ends configuration does not perform better in output or runtime than the configuration with a spring at one end and pogo pins at the other. Would switching the pogo pins to the tail end and spring to the head end lessen or eliminate the cell denting problem?



Good question, in theory I would assume it would since the spring would "give" some thus preventing that from happening. The fact they still had the pogo pins at the head in the SC63 makes me think it has something to do with the driver or circuit board needing them, or maybe it's simply to reduce length.


----------



## twistedraven

Pogo pins provide less resistance for the battery when it discharges so you get better performance on the turbo for these new 12v xhp lights. They're also shorter overall, and we know that Zebralight likes to make their lights small.


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## Tachead

snowlover91 said:


> Good question, in theory I would assume it would since the spring would "give" some thus preventing that from happening. The fact they still had the pogo pins at the head in the SC63 makes me think it has something to do with the driver or circuit board needing them, or maybe it's simply to reduce length.


It would only have "give" if they made the tube longer. A fully compressed spring has no give and offers little benefit in the battery protection/cushion department.


----------



## Lumencrazy

The real issue is that the positive terminal on an unprotected battery was never designed to take a load. The metal is very thin.
It was designed for soldering that is why it is so thin. Panasonic never intended for these batteries to be sold without a protection circuit and a reinforced cap (e.g. button top)


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## Connor

I wonder if this is still a problem when there are simply _more _pogo pins to spread the load e.g. like in the SC600Fd III+ (6 pins arranged in a hexagonal pattern)?


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## snowlover91

Tachead said:


> It would only have "give" if they made the tube longer. A fully compressed spring has no give and offers little benefit in the battery protection/cushion department.



It has enough give to prevent the top from denying in the 63w, so it does offer that benefit at the very least. My point is that it's curious they chose half pogo pins and then a spring for the 63w, it does at least seem to prevent the dented battery issue. Beyond that why they chose to keep the pogo pins for the circuit board portion is curious.


----------



## AlanPototsky

I am very interested in this light, however, I am leery of the side switch. I carry in my pocket. I've never had a problem with my Thrunite Archerv1cv2. Anyone had a pocket turn on problem?

Alan


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## twistedraven

I usually lock mine out with a small turn of the tailcap. It doesn't take much of a turn to lock it out.


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## markr6

I find the button recessed enough not to worry about it. Like twistedraven said, a small turn on the cap can lock it out. A _very_ small turn, which is nice.


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## drummer132132

I've had it two times turn on since I've owned it which is when they first came out. It's rare if it happens


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## snowlover91

Wear mine at work every day and used to work in a warehouse for about 2 years. Never once had my ZL accidentally activate. It can happen but it's pretty rare and hard to do so. Also, it can be easily locked out as mentioned above so that gives a little more flexibility.


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## Screwball69N

Anyone know of a moder that would take that neutral junk LED OUT and put a white in mine for me


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## INFRNL

Screwball69N said:


> Anyone know of a moder that would take that neutral junk LED OUT and put a white in mine for me



Probably should have got the cool version then rather than the neutral

At this point I'm not sure if youd be better off selling it to get what you want or pay for the swap plus shipping.

Best of luck. Also not sure why you would buy neutral if you like cool white and clearly don't like neutral. Maybe i missed something


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## TCY

Screwball69N said:


> Anyone know of a moder that would take that neutral junk LED OUT and put a white in mine for me



ZL lights' internal electronics are fully potted and sealed so I doubt anyone could do that. I remember Vinh54 posted a video saying that he opened up one and the internal was perfect and he couldn't improve it. He might be able to swap the LED for you but imho financially you are better off selling yours to someone else and grab a cool white version from ZL.


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## twistedraven

The 5700k SC600 is what you're after. It doesnt' come with a high intensity emitter though. Also good luck finding one that isn't greenish.


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## Screwball69N

They never made one in cool white and they said they won't either


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## TCY

Screwball69N said:


> They never made one in cool white and they said they won't either



The HI only comes in neutral white. Regular SC600 has a cool white flavour though.


----------



## markr6

I did OK on the tint lotto with my SC600 HI. Nice neutral white which really looks good outdoors in the woods.


----------



## lampeDépêche

markr6 said:


> I did OK on the tint lotto with my SC600 HI. Nice neutral white which really looks good outdoors in the woods.



Ditto. My SC600 HI has a very nice neutral tint.


----------



## Screwball69N

TCY said:


> The HI only comes in neutral white. Regular SC600 has a cool white flavour though.


Yes I have that one too bad love it but I'm talking about the HI this thread is about the SC600w MK III HI right I own all the next gen ZebraLights the Hi being a thrower should have only been made in Cool white LED and nothing else that's why I'd like someone to switch out the two LEDS for me


----------



## Witterings

Screwball69N said:


> Hi being a thrower should have only been made in Cool white LED and nothing else that's why I'd like someone to switch out the two LEDS for me



That's just your opinion ... I think you'll find there are a lot of people that disagree with it though!!!


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## markr6

Witterings said:


> That's just your opinion ... I think you'll find there are a lot of people that disagree with it though!!!


Yea I like that the HI "matches" my H600w. When I'm backpacking and switch between the two, or even use them simultaneously, it's not going to break my brain!


----------



## petr9999

Just received my ZL SC600 HI, amazing light  

thought i would mention that there is a new pogo pin design, should prevent the denting, no?






old design for reference:


----------



## Kuro

Firstly I have had a Zebra headlamp for years and it has never let me down unlike cheaper brands.

I recently purchased a Zebra SC600w Mk III Flashlight and would like to purchase a holster belt pouch case.

Can people recommend a suitable pouch case for this light?


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## markr6

I'm not complaining, but I'm still surprised this wasn't offered in a cool white. Even though I hate cool blues, the other 5700K lights are not bad...and would make sense in a little thrower like this.


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## recDNA

markr6 said:


> I'm not complaining, but I'm still surprised this wasn't offered in a cool white. Even though I hate cool blues, the other 5700K lights are not bad...and would make sense in a little thrower like this.


What's the candella rating?


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## markr6

recDNA said:


> What's the candella rating?



I have no idea; ZL never supplies this. And I don't recall anyone doing any official tests either. A very, very out of the blue guess by me would be 16,000.


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## scs

markr6 said:


> I have no idea; ZL never supplies this. And I don't recall anyone doing any official tests either. A very, very out of the blue guess by me would be 16,000.



mhanlen, or is it mhalen made a video review on YouTube, which includes a CD measurement.


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## recDNA

scs said:


> mhanlen, or is it mhalen made a video review on YouTube, which includes a CD measurement.


Thanks. Found it. He measured 18300cd. Very impressive if accurate.


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## sp5it

What is current consumption on fresh cell on highest mode? I winder which cell will be most effective for that light.
Thanks, Mike


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## snowlover91

sp5it said:


> What is current consumption on fresh cell on highest mode? I winder which cell will be most effective for that light.
> Thanks, Mike



I recommend the 18650ga cells, hold 3500mah and work great. They can easily handle the amp draw too.


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## tompen41

Creezy said:


> What are you peeps using for a holster?



This one from  Manker Flashlight Holster Tactical Holder Case Belt Velcro Pouch For Manker U11 / T01 / E14 Fits the MK111 Hi like a glove


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## recDNA

I'm so tempted to try one of these but I would use it so seldom...


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## Swedpat

I recently ordered a SC600w Mk III standard version. After that asked myself if I should have got the HI instead. When I search for information the most results are regarding HI version. According to technical specification HI has 8deg hotspot compared to 10deg for the standard version. This should mean ~56% more candela for the HI version, which I think is not a dramatic difference in practise. Or? Anyone who have compared them side by side?


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## TheRealSpinner

I have both. I gave my wife the regular, and I use the HI. I did this because the regular is a better beam pattern (in my opinion) for general use. I don't like the hot spot that the HI omits.
The reason I use the HI is because I use it in conjunction with the SC63w. The 63 does the majority of the lighting, with the HI as additional illumination, or distance spotting.


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## aginthelaw

Mk III: nightly walks. Hi: hunting foxes


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## scs

Swedpat said:


> I recently ordered a SC600w Mk III standard version. After that asked myself if I should have got the HI instead. When I search for information the most results are regarding HI version. According to technical specification HI has 8deg hotspot compared to 10deg for the standard version. This should mean ~56% more candela for the HI version, which I think is not a dramatic difference in practise. Or? Anyone who have compared them side by side?


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## Swedpat

Thanks for the replies and the video!

Yes, the HI version has noticeably more intense hotspot in the video, but I think the regular version is better for allround use. Anyway my regular version is already shipped and I am sure I will be pleased with it. I think the beam profile will be similar as the beam of SC5w, just much brighter/much better runtime for similar brightness level. If I then feel that I want the same light with better throw I can order the HI later and keep both.


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## scs

Swedpat said:


> Thanks for the replies and the video!
> 
> Yes, the HI version has noticeably more intense hotspot in the video, but I think the regular version is better for allround use. Anyway my regular version is already shipped and I am sure I will be pleased with it. I think the beam profile will be similar as the beam of SC5w, just much brighter/much better runtime for similar brightness level. If I then feel that I want the same light with better throw I can order the HI later and keep both.



I feel that if one needs more throw (more than that from a general beam [under 10k CD], but not as extreme as from a dedicated thrower) there are better alternatives than the HI anyways.

I often feel that some lights sort of fall in the region of not being good for general use, flooding, or spotting. For example, I have an old eagletac, the P100A2 with xpe. It has the beam profile of a thrower with a small hotspot and wide and dim spill. However, it doesn't have enough power to really throw well for my uses, and its beam profile makes it unsuitable for me for close up or even general applications. It doesn't get used these days.

For me the HI is somewhat like that. It sacrifices the nice wide general beam of the regular version for one that doesn't really throw well enough.


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## terjee

scs said:


> I often feel that some lights sort of fall in the region of not being good for general use, flooding, or spotting. For example, I have an old eagletac, the P100A2 with xpe. It has the beam profile of a thrower with a small hotspot and wide and dim spill. However, it doesn't have enough power to really throw well for my uses, and its beam profile makes it unsuitable for me for close up or even general applications. It doesn't get used these days.
> 
> For me the HI is somewhat like that. It sacrifices the nice wide general beam of the regular version for one that doesn't really throw well enough.



I find the type of light you're describing to often be quite good hiking lights. You don't really need a heavy thrower, you need some light by your feet, and some throw for further ahead, to scan the path you're taking a while further. Definitively agree though, lights perfect for that application are rarely optimal for close range, and they're not heavy throwers.

Amusing enough that I though I should comment; I ordered the HI specifically hoping that it is such a light.


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## Cobraman502

terjee said:


> I find the type of light you're describing to often be quite good hiking lights. You don't really need a heavy thrower, you need some light by your feet, and some throw for further ahead, to scan the path you're taking a while further. Definitively agree though, lights perfect for that application are rarely optimal for close range, and they're not heavy throwers.
> 
> Amusing enough that I though I should comment; I ordered the HI specifically hoping that it is such a light.



This is the case for the HI. in fact I used it last night in the dog park. The lowest high is plenty bright but if I need to spot something farther in the distance it turn on full blast and it works great. The spill on high low is perfect for walking at twilight. I really enjoy the light. Hoping for an SC64w with the new UI. Zebralight said they will make one but didn't get a date for production yet.


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## Swedpat

scs said:


> I feel that if one needs more throw (more than that from a general beam [under 10k CD], but not as extreme as from a dedicated thrower) there are better alternatives than the HI anyways.
> 
> I often feel that some lights sort of fall in the region of not being good for general use, flooding, or spotting. For example, I have an old eagletac, the P100A2 with xpe. It has the beam profile of a thrower with a small hotspot and wide and dim spill. However, it doesn't have enough power to really throw well for my uses, and its beam profile makes it unsuitable for me for close up or even general applications. It doesn't get used these days.
> 
> *For me the HI is somewhat like that. It sacrifices the nice wide general beam of the regular version for one that doesn't really throw well enough*.



Yes, and actually I feel that it's a bit exaggerated to call it a pocket thrower. It will have some decent throw due to the raw output but it is not a thrower anyway by definition. The runtime will be very short at the highest level and it will very soon be hot, also the brightness will step down. Since a while I have dreamed about a dedicated Zebralight thrower. Why not a SC600 option with twice as large reflector? Then it should be a true thrower!


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## Fireclaw18

Swedpat said:


> Yes, and actually I feel that it's a bit exaggerated to call it a pocket thrower. It will have some decent throw due to the raw output but it is not a thrower anyway by definition. The runtime will be very short at the highest level and it will very soon be hot, also the brightness will step down. Since a while I have dreamed about a dedicated Zebralight thrower. Why not a SC600 option with twice as large reflector? Then it should be a true thrower!


A key feature virtually all Zebralights share is their compact pocketable size. An SC600 with a double-size head wouldn't be compact or pocketable.


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## recDNA

The one flashlight I still crave is a thrower small enough to put in my pocket but with some spill. I Don't like the pinpoint aspheric square beam with no spill at all. A modern LX2 type light could do the job but Surefire won't build one for me. A 1+ inch head is too wide for me to comfortably pocket carry. Others are too heavy to pocket carry.


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## CelticCross74

the best cell for the SC600 MkIII in any variant is still the unprotected flat top GA that ZL also sells on their site. Sure there are higher voltage flat tops, higher amp flat tops but those cells at best are 3100mah and expensive. When I ordered my copy of the SC600 MkIII XHP35 HI NW as well as the flat top Sanyo 3500mah 10 amp unprotected GA cell off the ZL site ZL sent the cell already inside the light which was very cool.


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## Swedpat

Fireclaw18 said:


> A key feature virtually all Zebralights share is their compact pocketable size. An SC600 with a double-size head wouldn't be compact or pocketable.



Yes, that's true. 



recDNA said:


> The one flashlight I still crave is a thrower small enough to put in my pocket but with some spill. I Don't like the pinpoint aspheric square beam with no spill at all. A modern LX2 type light could do the job but Surefire won't build one for me. A 1+ inch head is too wide for me to comfortably pocket carry. Others are too heavy to pocket carry.



It's obvious that Zebralight has never intended to get into the thrower section(and this HI option is not an attempt to do it, just an offer for providing a bit more reach).
If so they had offered at least some XP-G(2) version with smooth reflector(if I am not wrong, I am not aware of such a light from Zebralight).
In opposite to Zebralight Fenix has persisted not to use XM-L(2) in any of their 1AA flashlights. I don't know the reason.


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## easilyled

scs said:


> For me the HI is somewhat like that. It sacrifices the nice wide general beam of the regular version for one that doesn't really throw well enough.



Yes. it is nearly impossible to find a flashlight with both a wide area beam for close up illumination with no distractingly bright hotspot as well as it being able to throw to a significantly far distance, beyond that of the SC600w Mk III HI, to my knowledge.

Only a light with 2 circuits for flood and throw could achieve this and the reflector would need to be wider & deeper than the SC600 series if you wanted greater throw. That would make the light unlikely to be pocketable.

The Zebralight SC600 Mk III HI seems to be as much of a compromise for a *pocketable *light with both flood and throw as possible. It is only a compromise though and for some it will not fulfil either purpose as well as a dedicated light for either purpose would.


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## vadimax

CelticCross74 said:


> the best cell for the SC600 MkIII in any variant is still the unprotected flat top GA that ZL also sells on their site. Sure there are higher voltage flat tops, higher amp flat tops but those cells at best are 3100mah and expensive. When I ordered my copy of the SC600 MkIII XHP35 HI NW as well as the flat top Sanyo 3500mah 10 amp unprotected GA cell off the ZL site ZL sent the cell already inside the light which was very cool.



Nowadays this is a requirement, I guess. A battery must be installed in a device or they cannot ship it at all.


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## CelticCross74

interesting. I did not know that vadimax!


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## toxin599

The fact that the battery is in (or packed with) the equipment exempts it from the new DOT and IATA rules implemented after 2016 and waives the "fully regulated" designation. They also have different limits depending on the lithium content. It's still possible to air and ground ship single cells, but involves lots of certifications and paperwork by the shipper, which is why many companies don't do it. 

I have ordered spare batteries with my Zebralight. They put one in the flashlight and the rest in a plastic container in the cardboard box with the light.


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## recDNA

easilyled said:


> Yes. it is nearly impossible to find a flashlight with both a wide area beam for close up illumination with no distractingly bright hotspot as well as it being able to throw to a significantly far distance, beyond that of the SC600w Mk III HI, to my knowledge.
> 
> Only a light with 2 circuits for flood and throw could achieve this and the reflector would need to be wider & deeper than the SC600 series if you wanted greater throw. That would make the light unlikely to be pocketable.
> 
> The Zebralight SC600 Mk III HI seems to be as much of a compromise for a *pocketable *light with both flood and throw as possible. It is only a compromise though and for some it will not fulfil either purpose as well as a dedicated light for either purpose would.


I don't find it pocketable unless you wear cargo pants.


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## easilyled

recDNA said:


> I don't find it pocketable unless you wear cargo pants.



I find that quite unusual, but it goes to show that there's different strokes for different folks!


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## markr6

recDNA said:


> I don't find it pocketable unless you wear cargo pants.



I agree. Maybe pocketable as in "I _can _fit it in my pocket". Yes, but not comfortably. It sticks out the side and I've hit corners of walls and desks/tables. Maybe I just cut corners too tight


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## vadimax

I consider "pocketable" Elzetta Bravo and Surefire 6P as far as they fit my coat pockets. So, personally for me this light is in a "pocketable" group 

Move North, that will extend your EDC capability


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## cirlaccouff

*Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*

Just interested to see if people have a preference for either the Zebralight SC62w or the SC600w Mk III Hi ... They obviously have different beam patterns and the SC62 is that bit smaller / lighter which makes it a bit more pocketable but do you have a leaning to one or the other and interested to hear the reasoning behind it if you do???


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## markr6

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*



cirlaccouff said:


> Just interested to see if people have a preference for either the Zebralight SC62w or the SC600w Mk III Hi ... They obviously have different beam patterns and the SC62 is that bit smaller / lighter which makes it a bit more pocketable but do you have a leaning to one or the other and interested to hear the reasoning behind it if you do???



While not ideal, you can make the SC600 floody with diffuser tape when needed or just pan it around more...but you can't make a floody SC62 throw farther. But if you don't often need throw, then the SC62 starts to look more attractive. It's hard to choose just one, but it will depend on how you plan to use it (most of the time).

I tend to use my SC600w HI more often than my SC63w, even though I'm not necessarily looking for more throw most of the time.


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## emarkd

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*



cirlaccouff said:


> Just interested to see if people have a preference for either the Zebralight SC62w or the SC600w Mk III Hi ... They obviously have different beam patterns and the SC62 is that bit smaller / lighter which makes it a bit more pocketable but do you have a leaning to one or the other and interested to hear the reasoning behind it if you do???



Well the SC62 is discontinued, and a couple of years old now, so its not exactly a "fair" comparison. Whatever that means. But personally I still think the SC62w was the best "edc" light Zebra ever made. Good tint (usually), plenty of output, no battery fitment issues, got hot but not hot enough to need serious throttling, just an all-round great light and built like a little tank. I love the SC62w.

I also love my SC600mk3 HI though. Its got better tint than the other XHP-lights in Zebra's current lineup, more output, and more mass so it can handle the heat a bit better too. But I do find it kinda uncomfortable in my pocket. Or at least noticeable. So whereas the SC62w (and now SC63w) nearly disappear in my pocket, I never forget that the larger SC600mk3 HI is in there.

So I guess I'd say they fill different roles. If I need the longer reach of the newer HI light then I'm willing to carry it. But for normal everyday "edc" duty I still like the SC62w.


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## snowlover91

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*

Excellent summary emarkd. I agree, the 62w was probably their best 18650 edc light for so many reasons. The 63w is good but the tint on mine is just okay, not great. If it had a better tint like my 62w then I would definitely prefer it. I have two of the 62w and one 63w, all work great as edc lights and my MK3 HI is more of an around the house or outdoors light.


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## TCY

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*

If ZL managed to put an XM-L2 easywhite into the SC62 without the beam aftifacts I would have definitely used mine more. Sadly the normal neutral white just doesn't satisfy me anymore.


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## eraursls1984

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*



snowlover91 said:


> Excellent summary emarkd. I agree, the 62w was probably their best 18650 edc light for so many reasons. The 63w is good but the tint on mine is just okay, not great. If it had a better tint like my 62w then I would definitely prefer it. I have two of the 62w and one 63w, all work great as edc lights and my MK3 HI is more of an around the house or outdoors light.


A SC64c with the new UI and a XP-L or XP-L HI (not XP-L2) would be perfect. I know if it comes out anytime soon it'll be a XP-L2 though. I do like tint on my SC5c, but I would prefer the XP-L HI 4000K over this XP-L2.


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## vadimax

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*



eraursls1984 said:


> A SC64c with the new UI and a XP-L or XP-L HI (not XP-L2) would be perfect. I know if it comes out anytime soon it'll be a XP-L2 though. I do like tint on my SC5c, but I would prefer the XP-L HI 4000K over this XP-L2.



XP-L HI would give more concentrated beam. Not an option for me. SC5c is perfect as it is, I guess.


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## noboneshotdog

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*

Should we expect the latest iteration of this light to have the same tint and beam quality as the last, and the new UI to be the only change.

I understand the current model has had high praise. The latest iteration would be my first SC600 HI and I'm hoping it will be as good /better than the last one if possible.


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## snowlover91

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*



noboneshotdog said:


> Should we expect the latest iteration of this light to have the same tint and beam quality as the last, and the new UI to be the only change.
> 
> I understand the current model has had high praise. The latest iteration would be my first SC600 HI and I'm hoping it will be as good /better than the last one if possible.



Based on the spec sheet it seems the IV HI model will be similar with the same LED but slightly more lumens. I assume it will also get the new customizable UI as well and maybe a tweak on the light design. Should be another homerun if so!


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## noboneshotdog

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*



snowlover91 said:


> Based on the spec sheet it seems the IV HI model will be similar with the same LED but slightly more lumens. I assume it will also get the new customizable UI as well and maybe a tweak on the light design. Should be another homerun if so!



Sounds like a home run to me!


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## eh4

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*

I've stuck with the ZL Headlamp models, always wondered about their hand held flashlights, and didn't have much luck finding good comparison videos either. 
How does Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI throw and beam profile compare to the fairly new Emisar D1 HI?


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## eh4

recDNA said:


> The one flashlight I still crave is a thrower small enough to put in my pocket but with some spill. I Don't like the pinpoint aspheric square beam with no spill at all. A modern LX2 type light could do the job but Surefire won't build one for me. A 1+ inch head is too wide for me to comfortably pocket carry. Others are too heavy to pocket carry.



I love ZL lights, and I'll keep buying them and recommending them. 
What you might well be looking for is an Emisar D1 HI, or a VN modded D1.

Oh wait, I overlooked the issue about 1"+ head diameter, that eliminates the D1.


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## oKtosiTe

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*



eh4 said:


> I've stuck with the ZL Headlamp models, always wondered about their hand held flashlights, and didn't have much luck finding good comparison videos either.
> How does Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI throw and beam profile compare to the fairly new Emisar D1 HI?



There's a direct comparison of measurements here. No beamshots I don't think.


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## eh4

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*

Thanks!

Also, these beam shots were just posted, 7th post down: 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?439540-4500-5000-Cd-actual-distance


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## AmperSand

*Re: Re Zebralight SC600w Mk III HI Pocket Thrower*

Have been having dinted battery issues after drops for a while on my SC600w mkiii HI (with the 3 pogo pins, not the updated ver). Got kind of sick of fixing the tops of my cells (and a little worried repeatedly doing this may cause some form of issue with the cell).
So instead of rebending this time I swapped the tailcap from my SC600w mkii onto the mkiii. The mkii works fine with the mkiii tailcap and the mkiii works fine (even with dented cell) on the mkii tailcap, no more rattles and disconnections.


----------

