# PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build (Now 1140W) . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added



## petrev (Feb 9, 2008)

Thanks to LarryK, PlasmaMan, JimmyM, LuxLuthor and . . .

Historical Credits:
Crosman451 - The Sleeper, 
LarryK - LK14,
Plasmaman - A123 Version LK14
JimmyM - JM-SST and how to boost to a double FET +Volume Control
Inspiration by Ra The Maxablaster

Project - Make a LarryK14 (Par 64 GE-Q4559X 28 volt 600 watt Lamp) and then fit a 1000W Landing Light (Par 64 GE-4556 28 volt 1000 watt Lamp)

Using Parts List

JM-SST (JimmyM Soft-Starter with Trim)
DeWalt V36 Pack (10xA123) (eBay)
inc. DeWalt built-in charger
DeWalt Pack Power-Charger (eBay)
UK Homebase 5,000,000 CP Lantern
Par 64 GE-Q4559X 28 volt 600 watt Lamp (SkyGeek)(Google +Try Variant Spellings)
Par 64 GE-4556 28 volt 1000 watt Lamp (SkyGeek)(Google +TVS)
Muldental 6.0 sqmm, 0.75 and 0.50 UltraFlexible Silicone Cable (also Google Super Flex)
2x Deans 50A Male and Female (1 Female PCB mounted)
1Meg Pot 

Note: Q4559*X* (MBCP 765,000)with halogen capsule is brighter than standard Q4559 (MBCP 600,000)

Note: 4556 not listed in current GE/Silvania/Ushio literature 

Alternative. . . 4557 Dual filament version 400/1000 ? (MBCP 600,000) ~ Bigger, less bright hot spot but more total output than Q4559X same as 4556 . . .

I wanted to use the De-Walt pack almost as is - stripped of outer casing but utilising the standard charger. The pack in V1 form is very simple as everything stays where it is and just need to be strapped together. The V2 pack (Slim and Tall) need. the built-in charger to be relocated and the balancing wires extended.

An Emergency Cut-Out Switch is made from a Deans Female on PCB and a Male with a wire loop. This has the added function of providing an external position to check current using a DC Clamp Meter.

Artists Mock-Up 





1000W Filament





600W Filament (in Halogen Capsule)





Dremel edge ring to accomodate deeper PAR64





Dremel Battery Bay - Less needed for V2, only requires a small amount from the rear door bottom edge and fillets on cross screw housings





Dremel slot for copper heatsink (remote mounted FETs from JM-SST)





1 FET removed from JM-SST, mounted on heatsink and second added !





FETs in place





Easy V1 pack - everything is where it was in the original DeWalt package





More work - Extend balance connectors and cut slots in top cage to allow underside connectors to bed in nicely





V1 - Chamfer front edge of connector to allow easy access to battery bay





V2 fit in with the bottom edge taken down about 1/8 inch





6.0sqmm cable and 50A Deans - The standard DeWalt connections are not rated as highly so are only used for charging





Charging V2 pack





FETs mounted and cabled (White is gate signal and Black is Neg In and PWM-Lamp Neg, Small black is Batt-Neg to the JM-SST)





JM-SSTmounted ->* Red* - Switched Pos, *White* - Gate Signal, *Black *- Batt Neg 





Deans Emergency Cut-Off PCB and Main Switch to JM-SST





FET Copper Sink + Xtra External heat sink ( I had it spare so . . . )





Emergency Cut-Off, JM-SST Trim Pot and Volume Knob (now connected - working well - HMMMMM)





Cut-Off again





Final (?) Item








petrev said:


> Hi
> 
> Added Voltmeter (Battery Pack Voltage)
> 
> ...


 
Meter Readings :

1000W Lamp
28V @ *36.0A*
1008W

Double Pack 1000W
30V @ *38.0A* 
(*1140W*)


600W Lamp
30V @ *22.4A* 
672W

Pete

+ Beam-Shots Added 
+ Video Added below



petrev said:


> Some sort of Beam-Shots
> 
> All @ ISO100 (equivalent)
> 
> ...


 
VIDEO - :candle:



petrev said:


> Outdoor Video (7.7MB)
> http://www.mediafire.com/?3yi1sejwdpz
> 
> 5761 then 623 then 1000W


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## Bogus1 (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*

Wow, Pete! Very nice


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## Cydonia (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*

Sleeper mega mod!!


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## electromage (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*

That looks like a well-thought-out build.

What is the metal box on top of the battery pack?

It seems like that PAR lamp would get too hot for the plastic case. Does it reflect enough out the front to keep temps down?

Oh, and this thread seems startlingly devoid of any pictures with the lamp on...


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## Stereodude (Feb 9, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*

Pardon the stupid question, but is that a HID?


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## paulr (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*

HID = high intensity discharge = basically an arc lamp. They are around 3x as efficient as incandescents but have various shortcomings and are expensive. In portable lights most of the ones we see are 35 watts and 3000 or so lumens. The 1kw light in this thread is not HID, it's a monstrous incandescent. Wow!


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## petrev (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*

Words Added . . .



Bogus1 said:


> Wow, Pete! Very nice





Cydonia said:


> Sleeper mega mod!!


 
Thanks - Good to hear from you E
Thanks Cydonia



electromage said:


> That looks like a well-thought-out build.
> 
> What is the metal box on top of the battery pack?
> 
> ...


 
Still work to be done . . . !

Metal Box is the DeWalt built in Charger/Balancer.

PAR lamp throws almost all the heat right out of the middle of the lens. Almost none gets backwards - Remarkable. 

BUT the Pack . . . More on that in a moment.

Test run last night and then sleep as had worked allmost all day soldering and fitting and posting photos . . . too tired to add words and do more photos !



Stereodude said:


> Pardon the stupid question, but is that a HID?





paulr said:


> HID = high intensity discharge = basically an arc lamp. They are around 3x as efficient as incandescents but have various shortcomings and are expensive. In portable lights most of the ones we see are 35 watts and 3000 or so lumens. The 1kw light in this thread is not HID, it's a monstrous incandescent. Wow!


 
That about sums it up - Thanks *paulr* (correction)

Now - Heat

The PAR64 1000W produces a lot of heat out of the front but doesn't get hot in the back and sides - so that's great.

*BUT* - *CAUTION*

Pack gets very *HOT* during a "long" run. Maybe the DeWalt pack strapping is not rated at 35A - the std. output/charge connections are almost certainly not, which is one reason why I added the Deans. All the data on the RC-Groups threads and other sources say that the A123 cells don't heat up much even under extreme load (30A+). Tried an extended 3 minute run and nothing got too hot - or so I thought - but in fact the pack was boiling hot and at 35A the power drop at the end was truly precipitous. Whether from heat or over-discharge a cell had failed 0.0V (the others were at 2.9V)

So no extended runs, and I have ordered a small Volt Display to add on the top to monitor Pack Voltage.

More photos when I get a chance . . .

Cheers 
Pete


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## JimmyM (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

Smashing Build! I really like how you made the heatsink. How warm do those things get?
My regulator will use a MOSFET driver, which can drive 1-4 MOSFETs. Instead of building more boards for specific L14K type designs. I thought I would just make the JM-SSR capable of driving multiple MOSFETs in it's base form. Then just add external MOSFETs.
I know plasmaman had a failure using a single MOSFET and a 1000W bulb. So it looks like 600W is OK with a heatsink on a JM-SST, but 1000W requires dual FETs.
Bravo!
How about beam shots?


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## Stereodude (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*



paulr said:


> HID = high intensity discharge = basically an arc lamp. They are around 3x as efficient as incandescents but have various shortcomings and are expensive. In portable lights most of the ones we see are 35 watts and 3000 or so lumens. The 1kw light in this thread is not HID, it's a monstrous incandescent. Wow!


I know what an HID is, it just wasn't immediately clear if this was an HID or not to me. Though I should have figured it out from a picture of the filament.


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## AlexGT (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*

We need beamshots!!!!

Wow! Nice build! I have one of those spotlights laying around, how much did you spend on all the parts? Might build one myself.

AlexGT


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## petrev (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*



AlexGT said:


> We need beamshots!!!!
> 
> Wow! Nice build! I have one of those spotlights laying around, how much did you spend on all the parts? Might build one myself.
> 
> AlexGT


 
Hi Alex

Beamshots as soon as poss.

Cost varies greatly depending on where you are ?

US cost is about 
$40-60 for the lamp eg. Here or $35 GEQ4559X Here
$90+ for the pack eg. on eBay $110 inc. post
$16 for the charger eg. on eBay $36 inc. post
$4 cable
$8 FETs eg Here $4 each
$25 JM-SST
$8 Deans eg. Here

+HOST ~$20 (UK~£20 !!!!!!)

Google/eBay item for more choice / your area
+ anything I forgot . . . postage ! ?

Cheers
Pete


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## JetskiMark (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

Hello petrev,

Congratulations on your outstanding build. Excellent pics and post too.

I have a Q4559X. How does the 4556 compare? Is it considerably brighter? Is the beam similar? Does it throw farther? How is the spill?

I am curious because my HyperBlitz beats my Q4559X LarryK14 in all areas except spill.

Is there any way for you to take comparison shots between the Q4559X and the 4556? There are a few CPF members that are familiar with the former and it would be great to get an idea of how much brighter the 4556 is.

Regards,
Mark


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## petrev (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*



JetskiMark said:


> Hello petrev,
> 
> Congratulations on your outstanding build. Excellent pics and post too.
> 
> ...


 
Hi Mark

I think it is quite a bit brighter, maybe more focused but not sure (maybe not quite as white as not overdriven - but still impressive - trouble is they both make you go a bit blind ! ). I really need to get it next to another one or get out there and do the photos - My nice camera is bust and my Pocket Camera just isn't as easy for taking manual shots, but I will get to it soon . . . 

Plasmaman is building one - he has the LarryK14 that inspired me to do a similar mod and then we found the bigger bulb and thought - Why Not? 
At some point (soon) we will get them together and do a side by side comparison . . . easy to load either lamp of course.

Love your HyperBlitz by the by

Cheers Pete


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## JetskiMark (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*



petrev said:


> ....At some point (soon) we will get them together and do a side by side comparison....



That would be great and I'm really looking forward to it.



petrev said:


> Love your HyperBlitz



Thank you, it is a lot of fun. I need to build something considerably brighter now though. The madness never ends....

Regards,
Mark


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## 3rd_shift (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

Man!! That is kickin'!
1000+ watts!
I sure wish you could make it to the Dallas Fort Worth area this summer with that monster. :thumbsup:
Keep up the good work! :goodjob:


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## divine (Feb 10, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*



3rd_shift said:


> Man!! That is kickin'!
> 1000+ watts!
> I sure wish you could make it to the Dallas Fort Worth area this summer with that monster. :thumbsup:
> Keep up the good work! :goodjob:


Maybe he can just shine it in your general direction.


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## cat (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

_*HOLY!*_  _

Let.there.be.*LIGHT*! :tinfoil:
_

I like the way the charging grommet's used for the trim pot, and the copper heat sink slit. 
:goodjob: 

What I don't get is why..the two battery packs, V1 and V2. And two lamps. 
Pity about the Dewalt pack, getting so hot. Disappointing. 

Thanks for the photos.


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## Raoul_Duke (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

Well done Pete. V-Nice.


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## ez78 (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

This is great. :thumbsup: I might upgrade my Larryk. Comparison shots between the original and this would be interesting.


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## petrev (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*



cat said:


> _*HOLY!*_
> 
> _Let.there.be.*LIGHT*! :tinfoil:_
> I like the way the charging grommet's used for the trim pot, and the copper heat sink slit.
> ...


 
Hi Cat

Thanks for spotting the trim pot behind the charging grommet - I thought that worked out really neat too.

Why two battery packs ?
Well the idea was to produce a simple pack from the DeWalt that could be charged using the standard charger that is available really cheaply (?) to U.S. so that people without A123 chargers might benefit . . . 

That is the *V1* - Straight out of the Std. Pack and just strap it all together and add the BIG output cables and Deans plug - easy and quick !

V2 is just because I might be getting another host that has a narrow/taller battery compartment so I decided to try to make a pack that would fit both hosts.

If someone wants to copy this build then just do the simple *V1* - it works fine and only needs a bit more Dremel work on the inside.

. . . And - Why two Lamps ? 
Answer - Personally I think the Std. LarryK14 Q4559X is probably the most "sensible" as it runs for a bit longer (22A vs 36A) and everything will be less stressed - but - as I saw the 1000W lamp existed I just had to find out if it would work and whether it was much brighter/sharper/impressive ??? I think I will probably actually "use" the Q4559X version more often but the 1000W is now just a swap away when extra is needed.



Raoul_Duke said:


> Well done Pete. V-Nice.


Ta Mate


ez78 said:


> This is great. :thumbsup: I might upgrade my Larryk. Comparison shots between the original and this would be interesting.


 
Hope to get some beam shots tonight if I don't screw it all up fitting the Volume-Mod !!!!!!!!!

Cheers
Pete


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## cat (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

Oh, I think you pointed out the trim pot, but it just took me a few moments to realise that the grommet was already there. :laughing:

V1, V2... I thought (from some RC stuff I read) that the charger was built into [one of] them. 

The two lamps... ok, yes, I get it.  And maybe the Dewalt packs will survive with the 600W lamp?


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## petrev (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*



cat said:


> Oh, I think you pointed out the trim pot, but it just took me a few moments to realise that the grommet was already there. :laughing:
> 
> V1, V2... I thought (from some RC stuff I read) that the charger was built into [one of] them.
> 
> The two lamps... ok, yes, I get it.  And maybe the Dewalt packs will survive with the 600W lamp?


 
Hi Cat

Both V1 and V2 use the built-in DeWalt charger.

As far as I can ascertain the charger/balancer electronics are built into the DeWalt pack and are in the metal piggy-back lump. The Yellow thing the pack sits in while charging is really mostly a 36V power supply with some LEDs to show status and faults - these may well be derived from the charger/balancer. 

I think the pack may hold up much better at only 22A. I can't find any data on what real DeWalt tools consume, power wise, but the power wires that connect the pack to the built-in charger look like only about 15A max !

Cheers 
Pete


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## petrev (Feb 11, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words*

Some sort of Beam-Shots

All @ ISO100 (equivalent)

Sunlight on wall with 1000W
f10 @ 1/400th 




Ceiling Bounce - 600W LarryK14 (672W)
f8 @ 1/400th




Ceiling Bounce - 1000W XK21 (1008W)
f8 @ 1/400th




Outdoors - Osram 64625 FM3" 4xA123
f4 @ 1/2sec Auto White-Balance (Wrong)




Outdoors - 600W LarryK14
f4 @ 1/2sec (Incan-WB)




Outdoors - 1000W XK21
f4 @ 1/2sec




ORIGINAL - FULL SIZE IMAGES - Thumbnails

LK14


 . 

XK21




Cheers
Pete


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## ez78 (Feb 12, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*

Alright, thanks for those pics. Seems to give a noticeable boost over the 600W version and spot it nice and round. So this might be 20-22k lumens. I think the bulb is only rated for 25 hour life but that does not really matter in this type of use. Nice mod.


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## JimmyM (Feb 12, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*

That 1000W light is impressive.
Is that now, in fact, the most powerful hand held light? 1008W


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## cat (Feb 12, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*

I think the 600W is ok, given the current draw problem with the 1000W.

:sigh: Why am I bothering to build a 64625. 


Pete, where'd you get the copper sheet/strip for the heatsink? I've just come back from looking at plumbing stuff and window latches, looking for something for converting my charging clamp to do parallel.


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## petrev (Feb 12, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*



JimmyM said:


> That 1000W light is impressive.
> Is that now, in fact, the most powerful hand held light? 1008W


 
Could be ? 

The *Ra* Maxablaster gets the throw record I think, but the beam is not the same in any way.




cat said:


> I think the 600W is ok, given the current draw problem with the 1000W.
> 
> :sigh: Why am I bothering to build a 64625.
> 
> ...


 
The 64625 is great and really useful - hangs off a belt much better, and lasts longer too - just not the same self blinding capability.

Agree 600W is more of a "practical" lamp

Have fitted the Volume conversion now and the JM-SST(+V) works great - just a bit noisy - not really a stealth light ! Creates a wonderful industrial hummm at lower settings.

I got the piece of copper from my local metal merchant as an offcut - I think it's 18 guage about 0.6mm thick cost 50p. They do the same stuff at craft and model shops I think. Thin enough to cut easily and bend if necessary. Thicker would be better for your clamps though.

Cheers 
Pete


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## wallyrulz (Feb 12, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*



petrev said:


> Agree 600W is more of a "practical" lamp





Love the use of the word "practical". 

That is a truly awesome build. Nice detail, and I like your use of inexpensive parts. The first Mag85 I built cost WAY more in parts, and was pretty hard to find, and was a total pain in the butt to charge 9 AA cells individually . 

These A123 cells are going to change a lot for flashaholics.

Thanks for sharing the build.


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## wallyrulz (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*

I know it goes without saying here, but I sure am glad you were using A123. If regular lithiums had gotten that hot, you would have been holding a grenade  . 

Question, if it was the batteries that got hot, wouldn't that imply that the batteries themselves had exceeded their capacity? If the wiring had not been up to that amperage, it seems like the wiring and not the batteries would have gotten hot. But then again, me talking about electrical stuff would be like asking hillary clinton to ... oh, never mind.:wave:


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## petrev (Feb 13, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*



wallyrulz said:


> I know it goes without saying here, but I sure am glad you were using A123. If regular lithiums had gotten that hot, you would have been holding a grenade  .
> 
> Question, if it was the batteries that got hot, wouldn't that imply that the batteries themselves had exceeded their capacity? If the wiring had not been up to that amperage, it seems like the wiring and not the batteries would have gotten hot. But then again, me talking about electrical stuff would be like asking hillary clinton to ... oh, never mind.:wave:


 
Hi

Wouldn't want to try 36A with LiIons and yes if they got as hot as the A123s then . . . 

The wiring of the pack is welded to the aluminium canister and the neg. cap so difficult to tell which is causing the heat build-up but had not expected this sort of heat at "only" ~15C 

- to quote FlyElectric



> Temperature in use - Excellent (luke-warm at 15C)


full A123 Comparisons text HERE

Cheers Pete


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## petrev (Feb 15, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

Hi

Added Product Links and Notes

Note: Q4559*X* (MBCP 765,000)with halogen capsule is brighter than standard Q4559 (MBCP 600,000)

Note: 4556 not listed in current GE/Silvania/Ushio literature 
Alternate. . . 4555 Shown as lower (MBCP 600,000) than Q4559X
Alternate. . . 4557 Dual filament version 400/1000 but some also list as lower MBCP ?

Pete


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## missionaryman (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

What is this world coming to when we modify 5000000 CP lights for more output and the more when our "low beam" option is 600w 15000L.

Now that sanity is out of the way - that's the most awesome thing I have seen on the CPF since the invention of the MAG85 or the LarryK14!

Excellent work you madman!
how quickly does it start a fire?


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## DM51 (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

Incredible! To have something that makes a 625 look like a feeble candle-flame.. well, it's just _amazing_! Great work!


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## jimjones3630 (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

Pete, Wow now you have done it. That's a first which will be hard to beat.


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## petrev (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

Thanks Guys
Kind Words


Outdoor Video (7.7MB)
http://www.mediafire.com/?3yi1sejwdpz

5761 then 623 then 1000W 


Cheers
Pete


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## plasmaman (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

600w vs 1000w Larryk shootout next week..........(when my ******* FETs arrive!)


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## petrev (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

Hey

Fun Fun Fun . . .

:thumbsup:


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## missionaryman (Feb 16, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Sh*

that's crazy - if a picture's worth 1000 words then a video is worth 1000 pictures.
I have to build one now.


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## ez78 (Feb 20, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*

petrev, did you have any links where this 4556 1000W could still be ordered even if discontinued?

Ushio might be manufacturing these too, or what is this:

http://bulbster.com/lightbulbs/4556-1000par64nsp-aircraft-landing-p-1051.html


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## petrev (Feb 20, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*



ez78 said:


> petrev, did you have any links where this 4556 1000W could still be ordered even if discontinued?
> 
> Ushio might be manufacturing these too, or what is this:
> 
> http://bulbster.com/lightbulbs/4556-1000par64nsp-aircraft-landing-p-1051.html


 
Yes - looks like Ushio are still making it - or at least bulbster.com may still have stock.

Good find

Cheers
Pete


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## petrev (Feb 21, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*

Osram Data Sheet
http://ecom.mysylvania.com/miniapps/FileNet2/PIBs/FO120.pdf


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## Flashanator (Feb 21, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*

Hey Pet this 1000w *Super Sleeper* is stunning, that vid shows it whooping ***. :naughty:

Thats what I love to see on CPF 

cya.


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## petrev (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*

Hi

Added Voltmeter (Battery Pack Voltage)

and second power pack for double runtime and less stress . . .





Amazing how long "just" adding a voltmeter and a second pack takes . . . 

Cheers 
Pete


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## jufam44 (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*

Wow pete, this looks like a great build. Could you estimate the financial investment you have in this light?


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*



petrev said:


> Tried an extended 3 minute run and nothing got too hot - or so I thought - but in fact the *pack was boiling hot and at 35A the power drop at the end was truly precipitous*. Whether from heat or over-discharge a cell had failed 0.0V (the others were at 2.9V)
> 
> So no extended runs, and I have ordered a small Volt Display to add on the top to monitor Pack Voltage.



Pete, for some reason I just saw this thread. OMG, I almost sprayed coffee all over my keyboard when I read about your hot pack. Yeah, I didn't trust those RC boys tossing out the high Amp output of those cells like a walk in the park.

I love all the things you did on this, especially the voltage display. Can you say a bit more about how you hooked that up? I'm not even sure what kind of display (ranges) are available, but that is a great addition. VERY VERY WELL DONE!!!

Ya know one of the hardest things to find here in the States now...is a generic cheap plastic lantern to start with. None at Harbor Freight, and have not found them like that old model with the sliding back door anywhere. Anyone see them?


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## 2xTrinity (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*



> Tried an extended 3 minute run and nothing got too hot - or so I thought - but in fact the *pack was boiling hot and at 35A the power drop at the end was truly precipitous*.


I believe one of the reasons for that is that even though the cells themselves can handle the draw, the DeWalt pack wasn't meant to run at that kind of current continually. If you were to go to the trouble of breaking open the loose cells and re-welding your own pack you could probably do better. Either way though, resistnace loss is proportional to the square of the current, so with two packs you'll have less heat overall, and share it between the two.

That's why I always like to plan more capacity than I actually use -- there are extra advantages to having more battery capacity, including less resistance loss/voltage sag, and shallower cycling on the packs between uses.


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## Mighty Hd (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: PK1000 - The First (?) 1000W Build . . . Pix +Words +Beam-Shots +Video Added*

Sweet Lamb of God that is awesome.
:twothumbs


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## petrev (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*



jufam44 said:


> Wow pete, this looks like a great build. Could you estimate the financial investment you have in this light?


 

Hi jufam44,

see post #11 for US costs - mine were a bit higher because of UK postage etc. and the packs have just started to go up in price as they are seen being used for RC etc. !

The second pack cost another £85 and the 0-99.9V meter was $21.50 here on eBay also available in Red. 

I also fitted in a little power supply for the 5V needed by the meter panel - $16






LuxLuthor said:


> Pete, for some reason I just saw this thread. OMG, I almost sprayed coffee all over my keyboard when I read about your hot pack. Yeah, I didn't trust those RC boys tossing out the high Amp output of those cells like a walk in the park.
> 
> I love all the things you did on this, especially the voltage display. Can you say a bit more about how you hooked that up? I'm not even sure what kind of display (ranges) are available, but that is a great addition. VERY VERY WELL DONE!!!
> 
> Ya know one of the hardest things to find here in the States now...is a generic cheap plastic lantern to start with. None at Harbor Freight, and have not found them like that old model with the sliding back door anywhere. Anyone see them?


 
Hi Lux,

How could you miss this ? I have been bumping it all the time . . .

Hot pack seems to be the pack strapping as the heat seems to come from the ends of the cells.

The meter is a 99.9V unit from china - see just above. Needs a 5V supply too.

Most of the effort in the latest additions was Dremel work to make the pack fit the back-door and the door fit the pack - but now it just slides on and off and latches using the DeWalt catch. Also had to Dremel the charger quite a bit too so that the pack+door drop in to charge. Oh yes - and Dremel the hole for the meter panel ! That was quite a job to get neat on the double curve but looks fine in the end.

The double pack now holds 30V+ (for a while anyway) and the packs are less stressed.

38A @ 30V (*1140W*)

Yikes
Pete



Mighty Hd said:


> Sweet Lamb of God that is awesome.
> :twothumbs


 
Ta Mighty


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## petrev (Feb 24, 2008)

2xTrinity said:


> I believe one of the reasons for that is that even though the cells themselves can handle the draw, the DeWalt pack wasn't meant to run at that kind of current continually. If you were to go to the trouble of breaking open the loose cells and re-welding your own pack you could probably do better. Either way though, resistance loss is proportional to the square of the current, so with two packs you'll have less heat overall, and share it between the two.
> 
> That's why I always like to plan more capacity than I actually use -- there are extra advantages to having more battery capacity, including less resistance loss/voltage sag, and shallower cycling on the packs between uses.


 
Hi 2xTrinity

Yes does seem to be the pack strapping and welding that heats up most.

The idea was to try and use the pack almost "as is" - obviously had to improve the output leads as the standard system is way to low current capacity but the new pack is just about straight from the blister pack.

The 2-pack solution seems to work well - as you say losses are much improved. 
The single external pack can also be used on its own with the LK14 600W GE-Q4559X lamp and actually makes a beautifully balanced lamp with a little space inside for loose change and wot-nots !

Hope to use these packs in some other builds soon - just waiting on lamps and hosts ! 

Cheers
Pete


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## JimmyM (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*



petrev said:


> 38A @ 30V (*1140W*)
> 
> Yikes


Yikes is right! Does the MOSFET heat sink get noticably warm at all?


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## petrev (Feb 24, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*



JimmyM said:


> Yikes is right! Does the MOSFET heat sink get noticably warm at all?


 
Nope

Cool as the proverbial so far . . .

!


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## petrev (Feb 27, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix*



LuxLuthor said:


> Pete, for some reason I just saw this thread. OMG, I almost sprayed coffee all over my keyboard when I read about your hot pack. Yeah, I didn't trust those RC boys tossing out the high Amp output of those cells like a walk in the park.
> 
> I love all the things you did on this, especially the voltage display. Can you say a bit more about how you hooked that up? I'm not even sure what kind of display (ranges) are available, but that is a great addition. VERY VERY WELL DONE!!!
> 
> Ya know one of the hardest things to find here in the States now...is a generic cheap plastic lantern to start with. None at Harbor Freight, and have not found them like that old model with the sliding back door anywhere. Anyone see them?


 
Hi Lux

Seem to have plenty of these hosts at my local UK-Homebase shop for $42 plus postage UK->You if anyone is wanting one - reduce the postage weight by removing the SLA. Colours may vary ?

Cheers
Pete


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## ez78 (Feb 27, 2008)

There is a nice looking black version too:

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sip-06305-5-000-000-candle-power-rechargeable-spotlight-p3574


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## petrev (Feb 27, 2008)

ez78 said:


> There is a nice looking black version too:
> 
> http://www.toolstop.co.uk/sip-06305-5-000-000-candle-power-rechargeable-spotlight-p3574


 
Yes - That is the same in Black

Thanks ez


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## LuxLuthor (Feb 27, 2008)

Still seems weird that there are none in the USA that I can find.


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## Ra (Feb 27, 2008)

*Re: 1000W Build . . . Pix - Now with Added Words - And Beam-Shots*



petrev said:


> The *Ra* Maxablaster gets the throw record I think, but the beam is not the same in any way.



That's because the Maxablaster-bulb has super high surface brightness! But it doesn't come near your 1kw monster on lumens-output (and colorrendering for that matter..)!


Very nice work peter!! :twothumbs


All the best,

Ra.


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## petrev (Feb 27, 2008)

Hi Ra

Thanks for the kind words.

Very different beasts - yours are miracles of technology and building skill and mine is a somewhat low tech assembly (apart from JM-SST) and uses pure brute force for the WOW effect with lots of Dremel work. The 1000W is just a new assemblage based on others hard work. The result is fun though.

Historical Credits:
Crosman451 - The Sleeper, 
LarryK - LK14,
Plasmaman - A123 Version LK14
JimmyM - JM-SST and how to boost to a double FET +Volume Control
Inspiration by Ra The Maxablaster

Love your amazing work with the LED TIR and your HID too.
Keep up the good work

Cheers
Pete


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## petrev (Feb 28, 2008)

Added

Historical Credits:
Crosman451 - The Sleeper, 
LarryK - LK14,
Plasmaman - A123 Version LK14
JimmyM - JM-SST and how to boost to a double FET +Volume Control
Inspiration by Ra The Maxablaster

Cheers 
Pete


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 5, 2008)

Hey Pete, did you follow the guideline and heatsink this...and if so, did you put a HS block on top of the two black HS's that are on it? I have a CPU HS that I could use but this is a pretty small area to HS. Thanks!


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## petrev (Mar 5, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Hey Pete, did you follow the guideline and heatsink this...and if so, did you put a HS block on top of the two black HS's that are on it? I have a CPU HS that I could use but this is a pretty small area to HS. Thanks!


 
Hi Lux

Heatsink between the FET-Tab and the fitted Heatsink.
+Arctic Silver 5 for good luck.

Runs at 34Vin 55mAout and the heatsink is at 35C at the middle with no lamp running to add to ambient - can't get to it during a run to check temp. but seems OK ! so far . . .





Cheers
Pete


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## JimmyM (Mar 5, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Hey Pete, did you follow the guideline and heatsink this...and if so, did you put a HS block on top of the two black HS's that are on it? I have a CPU HS that I could use but this is a pretty small area to HS. Thanks!


The external heat sink really isn't required. It has to drop 29V at 0.055 A. That's only 1.6W. It should work fine without it.


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## petrev (Mar 5, 2008)

JimmyM said:


> The external heat sink really isn't required. It has to drop 29V at 0.055 A. That's only 1.6W. It should work fine without it.


 
Hi Jimmy

Without the sink I didn't have any problems but the screw in the middle of the tab did get too hot to touch for long.

So . . . added the heatsink just in case . . . Does get quite warm so there is some heat coming from somewhere - about 40C at the base of the heatsink. Probably never get hot enough to damage anything but . . .

Cheers
Pete


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 5, 2008)

JimmyM said:


> The external heat sink really isn't required. It has to drop 29V at 0.055 A. That's only 1.6W. It should work fine without it.



Do you guys know why he says on his EBay listing of the 5V power supply why it should be HS'd then? Pete, thanks for that additional closeup! :thumbsup:

I got two sets of those. I'm even thinking of getting one of his 100A displays (& shunt) which I could likely power out of that same 5V converter.


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## JimmyM (Mar 5, 2008)

It says for High Current use an external heat sink should be added. It's just an LM7805 regulator that is capable of 1.5 Amps, but only if properly heat sinked and you don't exceed it's power dissipation rating.


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## JimmyM (Mar 5, 2008)

petrev said:


> Hi Jimmy
> 
> Without the sink I didn't have any problems but the screw in the middle of the tab did get too hot to touch for long.
> 
> ...


Certainly can't hurt. That's for sure. Superior build by the way. If I haven't already said it.


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## petrev (Mar 5, 2008)

JimmyM said:


> Certainly can't hurt. That's for sure. Superior build by the way. If I haven't already said it.



Thanks Jimmy

By the way ! Plamaman and I hooked up 12x A123 to a 36V 64663 the other day just to see what it was like - quite nice - Only later did I suddenly remember that the JM-SST FET is rated upto 40V ! ! ! 

Worked but I suppose we must have been right on the edge - You must tell us what to do for a 40V+ version mod if it's possible.

Cheers
Pete


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## petrev (Mar 5, 2008)

LuxLuthor said:


> Do you guys know why he says on his EBay listing of the 5V power supply why it should be HS'd then? Pete, thanks for that additional closeup! :thumbsup:
> 
> I got two sets of those. I'm even thinking of getting one of his 100A displays (& shunt) which I could likely power out of that same 5V converter.


 
I bought a 100A display and shunt too but haven't used them yet . . .


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## JimmyM (Mar 5, 2008)

petrev said:


> Thanks Jimmy
> 
> By the way ! Plamaman and I hooked up 12x A123 to a 36V 64663 the other day just to see what it was like - quite nice - Only later did I suddenly remember that the JM-SST FET is rated upto 40V ! ! !
> 
> ...


I use an FET rated for 60V. The IRF3206 I believe. The basic circuitry of the JM-SST is good to 80V. The onboard regulator can handle up to 80 Vin and the circuit only draws 2-7mA. I think 80V is pushing things because it has to drop the pack voltage down to 11.2V. I'd rather keep things below 60V. Jetskimark has a high voltage version. The reason I don't use the IRF3206 in all JM-SSTs is that the IRF2804 has lower On resistance and 40V is good enough for just about everyone.
If you want a high voltage JM-SST, let me know and I'll keep it in mind for batch 3. Which I'm sure will happen at some point.


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## JimmyM (Mar 5, 2008)

Oops. Double post.


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## petrev (Mar 5, 2008)

JimmyM said:


> I use an FET rated for 60V. The IRF3206 I believe. The basic circuitry of the JM-SST is good to 80V. The onboard regulator can handle up to 80 Vin and the circuit only draws 2-7mA. I think 80V is pushing things because it has to drop the pack voltage down to 11.2V. I'd rather keep things below 60V. Jetskimark has a high voltage version. The reason I don't use the IRF3206 in all JM-SSTs is that the IRF2804 has lower On resistance and 40V is good enough for just about everyone.
> If you want a high voltage JM-SST, let me know and I'll keep it in mind for batch 3. Which I'm sure will happen at some point.


 
Hi

Do you happen to have any IRF3206 in the D2PAK as they are out of stock in UK at Farnell - only the TO220 version ! Although I guess they could be made to fit . . .

Cheers
Pete


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## JetskiMark (Mar 5, 2008)

First of all, thank you petrev for "discovering" the 4556.

My two GE 4556 lamps arrived today and I put one in my LarryK14. I did a quick ceiling bounce test and it is definitely brighter than the Q4559X. It might even be a little brighter my 500W HyperBlitz. It's hard to tell, I'm seeing spots now. The HyperBlitz has a much tighter beam though and will probably win in throw. I will have to wait until it gets dark and compare the two then.

I wonder if I will have to do the double FET mod on my JM-SST? I am only running it for 5 to 10 seconds at a time now. Is this the correct FET? Is $7.09 a fair price for one? I used to only run it for about 20 seconds at a time with the Q4559X. I will have to open it up and test the temp of the FET after a 10 and 20 second run. What is the maximum allowable temp? I looked at the datasheet and I am not sure which figure to use.

Regards,
Mark


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## petrev (Mar 5, 2008)

JetskiMark said:


> First of all, thank you petrev for "discovering" the 4556.
> 
> My two GE 4556 lamps arrived today and I put one in my LarryK14. I did a quick ceiling bounce test and it is definitely brighter than the Q4559X. It might even be a little brighter my 500W HyperBlitz. It's hard to tell, I'm seeing spots now. The HyperBlitz has a much tighter beam though and will probably win in throw. I will have to wait until it gets dark and compare the two then.
> 
> ...


 
Thats the right FET - technically I used the TO-262 version IRF-2804L which is just the uncut leg version of the D2PAK (although I actually ordered D2PAK ??? as TO-262 was shown as out/not stocked ?)

$4.11 at Newark/Farnell (or $5.27 for the bigger screw-downable TO-220 version !) check postage and any minimum order type stuff.

Looks like 175C is the limiting junction temp and 300C for 10sec soldering temp (1.6mm from case)

More info / advice from JM

You might get away with the JM-SST as is. I think the highest stress is during Soft-Start and if using a lower than 100% duty cycle - I was wanting to use the external pot dimming facility so I thought it best to err on the safe side and go straight to double FET city.

Have fun
Pete


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## LuxLuthor (Mar 5, 2008)

petrev said:


> I bought a 100A display and shunt too but haven't used them yet . . .



Pete, I just got a reply back from the Ebay seller who said that you need *separate *LM7805 5V boards for Voltmeter & Ampmeter LED's. :ironic: Figures.


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## JetskiMark (Mar 5, 2008)

petrev said:


> ....Looks like 175C is the limiting junction temp and 300C for 10sec soldering temp (1.6mm from case)



Thank you for confirming what I thought was a crazy high temp. (175C = 347F!) I thought I was looking at the wrong spec because that temp seemed really high. My nitro R/C engines would probably heat seize before they reached that temp and they run hot by design! Could you imagine your batteries or wiring getting that hot?

I just did a quick throw test. There is a large tree 240 yards (220 meters) down the street. The 4556 is a lumen monster but the HyperBlitz beats it in throw. The HyperBlitz hot spot is about the width of the tree and bright. The 4556 hot spot is maybe six tree widths wide and not as bright. It lights up EVERYTHING though.

The 4556 definitely breathes some new life into my formerly not so bright (by comparison) LarryK14.

Regards,
Mark


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## petrev (Mar 6, 2008)

JetskiMark said:


> . . .
> 
> It lights up EVERYTHING though.
> 
> ...


 
Yep, that about sums it up - Monster Light - but not a throw king.

Cheers
Pete


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## JetskiMark (Mar 6, 2008)

I took the batteries out of mine and I was able to put my finger on the FET while it was running. After 30 seconds I was barely able to detect a temp increase. So I am not going to bother with the dual FET conversion. That JM-SST is one robust little unit.

Regards,
Mark


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## petrev (Mar 7, 2008)

JetskiMark said:


> I took the batteries out of mine and I was able to put my finger on the FET while it was running. After 30 seconds I was barely able to detect a temp increase. So I am not going to bother with the dual FET conversion. That JM-SST is one robust little unit.
> 
> Regards,
> Mark


 
Jimmy will be most happy with your results - Now officially able to SoftStart a 1000W MagLite if needed . . .

JM-SST is just amazing

Cheers
Pete


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## petrev (Mar 28, 2008)

Hi

Almost as simple . . . as the Simple Thor Mod

400W THOR Mod Thor-HyperBlitzSki ?

:wave:


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## LuxLuthor (Aug 21, 2009)

I was just looking at this thread that Genseng had posted, and his 1000W bulb solution looked creative.


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