# *new* Olight H1 Nova



## kj2 (Jul 16, 2016)

Upcoming headlamp from Olight, the H1 Nova. Video is in German!

https://youtu.be/RGv_viFqQcE


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## Tejasandre (Jul 16, 2016)

Interesting


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## davidt1 (Jul 16, 2016)

Looks nice. I like how the sturdy and beefy clip attaches to the headband and the beam angle is adjusted by rotating the clip/light. The big clip would also make it easy to attach magnets to it to make the light more versatile. That is what a proper clip should be.


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## kj2 (Jul 17, 2016)

davidt1 said:


> Looks nice. I like how the sturdy and beefy clip attaches to the headband and the beam angle is adjusted by rotating the clip/light. The big clip would also make it easy to attach magnets to it to make the light more versatile. That is what a proper clip should be.



There is a magnet in the tailcap.


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## davidt1 (Jul 17, 2016)

kj2 said:


> There is a magnet in the tailcap.



Good to know, but tailcap magnet is not as versatile as clip magnet. I have tried both.

Tailcap magnet: beam angle can only move sideways, not back or front. Clip magnet: beam angle adjustment is infinite.


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## regulator (Jul 17, 2016)

Looks pretty interesting- I like it. Anyone know what the levels are?


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## lizongyu (Jul 18, 2016)

davidt1 said:


> Good to know, but tailcap magnet is not as versatile as clip magnet. I have tried both.
> 
> Tailcap magnet: beam angle can only move sideways, not back or front. Clip magnet: beam angle adjustment is infinite.


It looks great!
Where can I buy that clip?
I'm still looking for a clip for my H603.


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## cclin (Jul 18, 2016)

how big is H1 NOVA? about same size as olight S1?


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## tops2 (Jul 18, 2016)

lizongyu said:


> I'm still looking for a clip for my H603.



My Armytek Wizard Pro v3 clip works well with my Zebralight H600Fd. Not sure how it'll fit on your H603 though. There's one retailer that sells this clip..


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## davidt1 (Jul 18, 2016)

lizongyu said:


> It looks great!
> Where can I buy that clip?
> I'm still looking for a clip for my H603.



That is the clip for the Zebralight H52. They say it works on the H600/H603 too. You have to add the magnets.


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## lizongyu (Jul 20, 2016)

tops2 said:


> My Armytek Wizard Pro v3 clip works well with my Zebralight H600Fd. Not sure how it'll fit on your H603 though. There's one retailer that sells this clip..


My Armytek Wizard Pro V3 XHP50 died after one month of usage.
I will try that clip as soon as I receive my replacement.






davidt1 said:


> That is the clip for the Zebralight H52. They say it works on the H600/H603 too. You have to add the magnets.


I have tried the H52 clip on H603. It's too easy to pop out. 
Anyway, magnet clip is really a good idea.


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## kj2 (Jul 20, 2016)

Please keep it on topic!


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## kj2 (Jul 20, 2016)

cclin said:


> how big is H1 NOVA? about same size as olight S1?



For what I could see on the video, it's about the same size.


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## NICSAK (Jul 20, 2016)

Looks awesome I've been looking for a good 16340 headlamp.


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## kj2 (Aug 4, 2016)

Release date: September 1st.


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## NICSAK (Aug 4, 2016)

That is fantastic news! Any details on it?


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## kj2 (Aug 5, 2016)

580 lumens max.
120 Hours max.
CR123/16340
IPX8


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## Swede74 (Aug 5, 2016)

Nice pic :naughty:

And a nice looking headlamp too. I hope it will be available in warm or neutral.


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## NICSAK (Aug 5, 2016)

Swede74 said:


> Nice pic :naughty:
> 
> And a nice looking headlamp too. I hope it will be available in warm or neutral.



I wholeheartedly agree unfortunately Olight doesn't seem to offer neutral lights very often


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## Stefano (Aug 5, 2016)

regulator said:


> Looks pretty interesting- I like it. Anyone know what the levels are?








I found this information on a Russian site.
I can see a big space between 10 and 200 lumens, this seems strange, but perhaps they are incomplete information

1 x CR123A 1500 mAh
Max 580 lumen - 1 hour and 40 minutes
Med 200 lumen - 5 hour and 20 minutes
Low 10 lumen - 36 hour
Lower 0,5 lumen - 12 days
Strobo 580 lumen

(1 x RCR123A 650 mAh):
Max 580 lumen - 1 hour
Med 200 lumen - 3 hour and 20 minutes
Low 10 lumen - 20 hour
Lower 0,5 lumen - 5 days
Strobo 580 lumen


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## NICSAK (Aug 11, 2016)

Any update on tint? Nw possibility?


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## rookiedaddy (Oct 25, 2016)

Received some launch material from Olight, sharing here for your info/amusement... :nana:

































============================

So, ignoring the 3 minutes boost mode , it's essentially a 180 lumens diffused/flood headlamp, available in Cool/Neutral white, MSRP of ~US$55 and slightly shorter than Olight's S1. Comparing to ZebraLight's offering, the H302w/H32Fw seems to have more features with a couple of more bucks... :hahaha: anyway, might still get a NW unit to play with... now, if only Olight could stick to their planned schedule... but with their "rapid" release timeline (almost 1 or 2 new models each month ), I'm not holding my hopes up... their release schedule starting to feel like those IT projects implementations familiar to yours truly... LOL!


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## Tachead (Oct 26, 2016)

tops2 said:


> My Armytek Wizard Pro v3 clip works well with my Zebralight H600Fd. Not sure how it'll fit on your H603 though. There's one retailer that sells this clip..



Could I bother you to post a pic of your H600Fd MKIII with the Armytek clip on it sir? Thanks:thumbsup:


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 26, 2016)

Only one thing about this attracts me by comparison to the ZL offerings:

the length. It is 2.3" or 58mm, whereas the ZL32 and ZL 302 are 2.7" or 68mm.

I am puzzled that the H32 and H302 are not shorter than they are. 
The AA-based H52 uses a 50mm cell and has a total length of 76 mm.
The 123-based H32 uses a 34mm cell and has a total length of 68 mm.
So the cell is 16 mm shorter, but the total unit is only 8mm shorter.

ZL is *so good* at building things in a compact and efficient way: how come they can't get that a bit shorter?

In any case--the Nova looks nice, but I wish it had a lower low. I might look at one just for size.


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## Olightworld (Oct 26, 2016)

Final version is up for pre-order. Yes still the same size as someone's thumb. 



cclin said:


> how big is H1 NOVA? about same size as olight S1?


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## Olightworld (Oct 26, 2016)

Yep NW and CW is available for Pre-order at our direct website www.olightstore.com



NICSAK said:


> Any update on tint? Nw possibility?


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## Olightworld (Oct 26, 2016)

We offer a lot of models around the US holiday season for obvious reasons and less models coming out during spring and summer. Sometimes we have delays as well due to making changes or refinements during our final prototype phase such as this H1 Nova which was originally going to release at the beginning of the month. Give the NW version a shot. It is very useful especially when you have a beam on your head. 



rookiedaddy said:


> Received some launch material from Olight, sharing here for your info/amusement... :nana:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Olightworld (Oct 26, 2016)

Hey guys,

You can pick between the Neutral white and Cool white versions of the H1 Nova on our direct website www.olightstore.com. Here is the direct link - http://www.olightstore.com/led-flashlights/headlamps/olight-h1-nova


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## gunga (Oct 26, 2016)

No moonlight mode?


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## thslw8jg (Oct 26, 2016)

Looks like a 2 lumen moonlight mode, no firefly mode


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## eraursls1984 (Oct 27, 2016)

thslw8jg said:


> Looks like a 2 lumen moonlight mode, no firefly mode


I guess it's subjective, but I (and I believe most here) don't consider two lumens "moonlight". Sub one lumen is moonlight, IMO.


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## gunga (Oct 27, 2016)

Yup. Me too.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 27, 2016)

Yup. Both "moonlight" and "firefly" live below one lumen.

Wiki: " the full Moon typically provides only about 0.1 lux illumination"

This light provides about 1000 lux at 500lumens, so 4 lux at 2 lumens. That's 40 times as bright as full moonlight.


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## iamlucky13 (Oct 27, 2016)

I suppose if you want to be technical about it, the full moon is about 0.1 lumens per square meter. A 2 lumen headlamp, actually worn on your head, just so happens to provide roughly the same illumination level as moonlight (subject to numerous only partially accurate assumptions about the beam shape).

Not that a technical comparison to the namesake for the desired low mode is relevant. Just throwing that out there because I was curious how the math worked out and wanted to share.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 27, 2016)

Can you show your work on that, iamlucky? Looks to me like you're assuming that the headlamp distributes its two lumens over 20 sq meters, at a distance of roughly one meter (i.e. arm's length). That strikes me as implausible, even for a much floodier beam (I don't think even a 120 degree beam like the ZL 502 covers a 4 or 5 meter circle when pulled back one meter). 

But you can clear up my confusion just by showing the numbers that you plugged in. You can probably follow my calculations--I was just assuming that the same beam-shape and the same distance that gave 1000lux for 500 lumens would give 4 lux for 2 lumens, since with the same beam-shape and distance the area covered would be the same. My rough calculation may be wrong, and maybe I'm approaching it the wrong way, but again I'd be grateful to hear what you think is wrong with that approach.


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## Tachead (Oct 27, 2016)

gunga said:


> Yup. Me too.




+3

Too bad Olight didnt add a sub lumen moonlight mode in addition to the other modes. They always seem to fall just short of a great design. Its too bad because they have some great designs/features. This light is kind of like a Zebralight crossed with an Armytek but with less modes, features, and without the real time thermal regulation. I think it should be a bit cheaper considering:shrug:


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## iamlucky13 (Oct 27, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Can you show your work on that, iamlucky? Looks to me like you're assuming that the headlamp distributes its two lumens over 20 sq meters, at a distance of roughly one meter (i.e. arm's length). That strikes me as implausible, even for a much floodier beam (I don't think even a 120 degree beam like the ZL 502 covers a 4 or 5 meter circle when pulled back one meter).
> 
> But you can clear up my confusion just by showing the numbers that you plugged in. You can probably follow my calculations--I was just assuming that the same beam-shape and the same distance that gave 1000lux for 500 lumens would give 4 lux for 2 lumens, since with the same beam-shape and distance the area covered would be the same. My rough calculation may be wrong, and maybe I'm approaching it the wrong way, but again I'd be grateful to hear what you think is wrong with that approach.



Not knowing much about the beam, my rough initial estimate was just projecting a simple 90 degree cone straight down to the ground from 2 meters height. In reality, very few user's foreheads are 2 meters off the ground, but at the same time, normal use is actually at an angle to the ground. This is just a really rough ballpark calculation, after all, and I only worked out an average, not a peak.

I just noticed that in the prior page they specify a peak luminous intensity of 1080 candela, which I'm guessing is what you were referring to when you referenced 1000 lux for 500 lumens? That can refine the estimate for the center of the beam, but you have to be aware that a candela only equals a lux at 1 meter - converting the various units for lighting can be confusing.

Regardless, you're starting with that figure is in most regards better than my method. Therefore 1080 candela at 500 lumens works out to 4.32 candela at 1 meter, providing 4.32 lux of illuminance at the center of the beam. At 2 meters, the illuminance has spread out to 1.08 lux.

So we're still a factor of 10 over the intensity of moonlight using this method, but knowing also that the total light output is 2 lumens, and from my previous calculation the average intensity over my theoretical cone is much lower, we know then that the intensity has to fall off fairly distinctly moving away from the center of the beam - the center of the beam will be noticeably brighter than moonlight, but the spill will be dimmer than moonlight.

But this is all academic. If 2 lumens is too bright for what people want in an ultralow mode, it doesn't matter how it compares to the moon.


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## rookiedaddy (Oct 28, 2016)

all these maths is making me :hairpull: and  and my brain is spinning in chaos... received another banner pic from Olight... posting here for your enjoyment with my own twist...


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 28, 2016)

Thanks, lucky13.

It is funny that we use "moonlight mode" for a lumen measurement, when what we experience in the dimness of walking in the moonlight is really a lux measurement. It's not a low-output light; it's a high-output light held very far away, whose output is diffused over a very, very large area. 

If we were to work out how many *lumens* of moonlight are hitting the earth during a full moon, it would probably be in the billions, and if we worked out how many lumens are leaving the moon's surface ("emitter lumens"), it would probably be in the trillions.


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## StandardBattery (Oct 29, 2016)

... like moonlight is a constant.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 29, 2016)

StandardBattery said:


> ... like moonlight is a constant.



O, swear not by the moon, the inconstant moon,
That monthly changes in her circled orb,
Lest that thy love prove likewise variable.

Romeo & Juliet, Act II scene ii


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## watchmania (Nov 3, 2016)

That led.. really looks like MT-G2 to me.



kj2 said:


> 580 lumens max.
> 120 Hours max.
> CR123/16340
> IPX8



How are they going to beat Acebeam H10 with just 580s


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## Olightworld (Nov 4, 2016)

The H1 Nova is officially in stock in cool white and neutral white beams at http://www.olightstore.com/led-flashlights/headlamps/olight-h1-nova.


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## Olightworld (Nov 4, 2016)

With the bead reflector used, 0.5 lumens can't even be seen. Use the 2 lumen mode in actual use and you will see that it is about as low as you could possibly want. 



eraursls1984 said:


> I guess it's subjective, but I (and I believe most here) don't consider two lumens "moonlight". Sub one lumen is moonlight, IMO.


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## D6859 (Nov 4, 2016)

I was about to post a new thread for this headlamp as I noticed it in Facebook, but fortunately Olightworld bumped this post while I was reading the specs. 

The headlamp looks promising. I wonder if there is AA/14500 version coming also


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## Tachead (Nov 4, 2016)

Olightworld said:


> With the bead reflector used, 0.5 lumens can't even be seen. Use the 2 lumen mode in actual use and you will see that it is about as low as you could possibly want.



You're using pretty much the same "bead reflector"/lens as Armytek does on their headlamps and their 0.14lumen moonlight mode is quite easily seen in total darkness and very useful. Zebralight has a 0.01lumen moonlight mode on their frosted lens headlamps and it is also very useful. 

Many people, including myself, want moonlight modes(sub 1 lumen) on their lights and headlamps.


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## gunga (Nov 4, 2016)

Yep. I agree.


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## davidt1 (Nov 5, 2016)

No quick access to low or high? They have this feature on their other lights. Why not on this light?

I hope they keep improving it and offer this light in AA and 18650 sizes too. There are lots to like about this light. I like the clip, the bead lens, the small size, and the neutral white option.

Keep up the good work, Olight.


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## cclin (Nov 5, 2016)

davidt1 said:


> No quick access to low or high? They have this feature on their other lights. Why not on this light?


H1's UI same as their other lights.

*H1 NOVA User Manual
*
*ON/OFF: Single click the side switch to turn the headlamp on/off. When the"*
*headlamp is turned on again after it has been turned off, it will return to the*
*previous mode selected before it was turned off. When the headlamp is off,*
*SOS mode will not be memorized. The turbo mode is only memorized for 10*
*minutes, and after that it will only memorize the medium mode.*
*
CHANGE BRIGHTNESS LEVEL: When the headlamp is on, press and hold the*
*side switch to cycle through the mode sequence moonlight (or turbo) - low -*
*medium - high - low. The mode is selected when the switch is released.*
*
MOONLIGHT MODE: When the headlamp is off, press and hold the side switch*
*for over one second to access the moonlight mode. If the last mode selected*
*was moonlight before the headlamp was turned off, it will go directly to the*
*moonlight mode once the light is turned on again.*
*
TURBO: When the headlamp is not locked out, quickly double click the switch*
*to activate the turbo mode. Quickly double click the side switch again to return*
*to the previous memorized brightness level (except SOS).*
*
SOS: When the headlamp is not locked out, quickly triple click the side switch*
*to access the SOS mode. To quit this mode, do any operation with the switch.*
*
LOCKOUT: When the headlamp is off, press and hold the side switch for two*
*seconds to access the button lockout mode (the headlamp will enter the*
*moonlight mode first and will then switch off to signal the lockout mode).*
*Under the lockout mode, press and hold the switch for less than two seconds*
*without releasing it and the headlamp will enter the moonlight mode again. The*
*headlamp will quit the moonlight mode once the switch is released and it will*
*return to and stay at the button lockout mode.*


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## MarkF786 (Nov 6, 2016)

I was just about to pull the trigger on one of these until I got out my Titanium Olight S1 and was reminded of its awful green-tinted "neutral" light. After spending $80 for it, the horrible tint made it unusable and it's spent it's life on my shelf - and dealers don't allow returns or exchanges because of tint problems.

Sorry, I love the form of Olight's flashlights, but the tint and/or quality control leave much to be desired. I'm not taking another $55 gamble.


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## maukka (Nov 7, 2016)

I'm happy to report that my H1 Nova in neutral white does not have a green tint. It's the rosiest Olight I've ever tested.

Lots of pictures by clicking the image below, review coming soon.


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## Tachead (Nov 7, 2016)

Thanks maukka:thumbsup:

5018K, that's very cool for a neutral white light. Too cool for my liking, especially for a headlamp. Its nice to see it isnt greenish tinted though. If the neutral white is that cool, I wonder what the temp of the CW is?


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## iamlucky13 (Nov 7, 2016)

0.1 lumens on my Armytek is great in a pitchblack house. I'm sure it will also be appreciated in a tent when warm weather rolls around again.

That said, while I'd consider a sub-lumen moonlight mode a potential tie breaker, it's not a deal breaker, and I'm sure there's no shortage of customers who don't care about sub-lumens at all (based on how many manufacturers don't offer a moonlight mode). Olight knows how to make very compact, lightweight flashlights, and I think that's the strength of this model. There's enough differences between the H1 and my Armytek Tiara that I think the H1 will sell fine.


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## Olightworld (Nov 8, 2016)

We appreciate that. The light is as small as the S MINI with a bead lens in a more neutral tint than cool white. With the optional pocket clip, it is a very useful and practical offering. 



iamlucky13 said:


> 0.1 lumens on my Armytek is great in a pitchblack house. I'm sure it will also be appreciated in a tent when warm weather rolls around again.
> 
> That said, while I'd consider a sub-lumen moonlight mode a potential tie breaker, it's not a deal breaker, and I'm sure there's no shortage of customers who don't care about sub-lumens at all (based on how many manufacturers don't offer a moonlight mode). Olight knows how to make very compact, lightweight flashlights, and I think that's the strength of this model. There's enough differences between the H1 and my Armytek Tiara that I think the H1 will sell fine.


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## Olightworld (Nov 8, 2016)

You can double tap from off to go straight to high. You can hold the button down from off to go straight to the 2 lumen mode. This light still has those features. no worries.



davidt1 said:


> No quick access to low or high? They have this feature on their other lights. Why not on this light?
> 
> I hope they keep improving it and offer this light in AA and 18650 sizes too. There are lots to like about this light. I like the clip, the bead lens, the small size, and the neutral white option.
> 
> Keep up the good work, Olight.


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 9, 2016)

maukka said:


> I'm happy to report that my H1 Nova in neutral white does not have a green tint. It's the rosiest Olight I've ever tested.


It looks like there are variant in the neutral white H1 Nova. I've seen the rosiest tint on some of the H1 Nova Neutral White, and I also have a test unit that is more yellowish... see below a tint comparisons:




I was sent both the Cool White and the Neutral White version for comparisons, on the left is the Cool White version and on the right is the Neutral White version.

now, here is a draft tint comparisons...




from left, Lumintop IYP365, H1Nova CW, H1Nova NW, SMini Ti Bead Blasted, S1 Baton Ti Polished, S1R.

I've seen H1Nova NW that has the same tint as the SMini Ti Bead Blasted shown above, nice rosy tint.


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## maukka (Nov 9, 2016)

I took some white wall beamshots of the H1 Nova and Zebralight H600Fd Mk3. In person the Zebra is clearly the greener out of those two, but in the photo it looks completely opposite. This is the first time I've encountered something like this. Measurements confirm the visual evaluation: H1 Nova is the more magenta one.






But then the measurements:


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 9, 2016)

maukka said:


> I took some white wall beamshots of the H1 Nova and Zebralight H600Fd Mk3. In person the Zebra is clearly the greener out of those two, but in the photo it looks completely opposite. This is the first time I've encountered something like this. Measurements confirm the visual evaluation: H1 Nova is the more magenta one.


Haha, I had similar experience when using auto white-balance, and sometimes manual white-balance too, the camera just like to play tricks. Now I fixed my white balance to either "day light" or 5500K and always have a cool white and a high cri flashlight besides the flashlights that I wanted to take a comparison tint with, it's not perfect, but it does a better job at showing the real-life tint differences. 

I have no doubts that your tint measurements are accurate. :twothumbs thank you so much for sharing.


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## Olightworld (Nov 18, 2016)

Guys we are doing a Black Friday sale at www.olightstore.com from Nov. 24-28th. Everything 20-35% off. Some items are even 45% off. We highly suggest you check it out next weekend! Also take a look at our Facebook page. We are currently giving away an SR95S-UT ($350 flashlight).


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 18, 2016)

Olightworld said:


> Guys we are doing a Black Friday sale at www.olightstore.com from Nov. 24-28th. Everything 20-35% off. Some items are even 45% off....



When you say "everything," do you mean "even new stuff"? 

Like, even the H1 Nova in neutral? 

'Cause if so, then you've got my money.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 24, 2016)

Yup. Healthy discount on this at olightstore!

I hit the bid, and I'm looking forward to checking it out.

Then I'll give it to my son, who likes 123 format stuff.

Me, I'll probably stick with my ZL AA format for EDC, and my ZL 18650 material for hard use.


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## davidt1 (Nov 24, 2016)

Waiting for to hear how it compares to your ZL lights. Olight needs to make AA and 18650 versions of this light. I would definitely pick one up. Would go ZL again but can't understand why they can't offer a clip for their 18650 angle lights.


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## Tachead (Nov 24, 2016)

davidt1 said:


> Waiting for to hear how it compares to your ZL lights. Olight needs to make AA and 18650 versions of this light. I would definitely pick one up. *Would go ZL again but can't understand why they can't offer a clip for their 18650 angle lights.*



It will not compare to the ZL. They are in different classes. The ZL has far more modes(including moonlight), user programmability, a battery capacity indicator, realtime thermal management, industry leading driver efficiency and runtimes, and is available in 3 different beam configurations as well as high CRI variants. That said, this light is still a pretty nice headlamp and is very small and light. 

The Nitecore MH20 clip fits the ZL H600 series like it was made for it. It fits absolutely perfectly in the holder groves and can be mounted in bezel down or up orientation. It is also readily available for less then $6 here(it is version B)...

http://www.nitecorestore.com/Pocket-Clip-for-Nitecore-P12-Flashlight-p/acc-clip-nitecore.htm


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 25, 2016)

Tachead said:


> The Nitecore MH20 clip fits the ZL H600 series like it was made for it. It fits absolutely perfectly in the holder groves and can be mounted in bezel down or up orientation. It is also readily available for less then $6 here(it is version B)...
> 
> http://www.nitecorestore.com/Pocket-Clip-for-Nitecore-P12-Flashlight-p/acc-clip-nitecore.htm



Great recommendation! I just ordered 4 of them for H600-series lights belonging to me, my son, my brother.

That combined with davidt1's magnet-on-the-clip trick makes it an ideal work-light: stick it on anything metallic, and rotate to the ideal angle.
Much better than tail-cap magnets, that only allow the light to point normal to whatever the metal surface happens to be.


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## davidt1 (Nov 25, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Great recommendation! I just ordered 4 of them for H600-series lights belonging to me, my son, my brother.
> 
> That combined with davidt1's magnet-on-the-clip trick makes it an ideal work-light: stick it on anything metallic, and rotate to the ideal angle.
> Much better than tail-cap magnets, that only allow the light to point normal to whatever the metal surface happens to be.



Bring along a flat washer and gaffer tape (gaffer tape is something one should carry as an essential EDC item) and you can create your own metal surface where there is none. The washer can be carried on the keychain easily.

Me I refuse to buy a $90 light without a proper clip.


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## Tachead (Nov 26, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Great recommendation! I just ordered 4 of them for H600-series lights belonging to me, my son, my brother.
> 
> That combined with davidt1's magnet-on-the-clip trick makes it an ideal work-light: stick it on anything metallic, and rotate to the ideal angle.
> Much better than tail-cap magnets, that only allow the light to point normal to whatever the metal surface happens to be.




Hope you like them:thumbsup:. Let us know what you think when you get them.


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## kreisl (Nov 26, 2016)

rookiedaddy said:


> from left, Lumintop IYP365, H1Nova CW, H1Nova NW, SMini Ti Bead Blasted, S1 Baton Ti Polished, S1R.



on that pic, the S1mini-Ti and the S1-Ti have the best looking tints. 
the H1-cw looks a bit greenish, the H1-nw looks yellowish-greenish or yellowish. omg


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## tbarb169 (Nov 27, 2016)

Which rechargeable rcr123a or 16340 would be best for this light?


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## rookiedaddy (Nov 27, 2016)

kreisl said:


> on that pic, the S1mini-Ti and the S1-Ti have the best looking tints.
> the H1-cw looks a bit greenish, the H1-nw looks yellowish-greenish or yellowish. omg


You are right, the H1-cw is greenish, but the H1-nw have the same tint as the S1-Ti.  
and you are right again, the SMini-Ti Bead Blasted have the best tint. :thumbsup:


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## Tachead (Nov 27, 2016)

tbarb169 said:


> Which rechargeable rcr123a or 16340 would be best for this light?



http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonSmallcomparator.php


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 29, 2016)

Bad news, folks.

This little thing is *so darned cute* that I am having a hard time resisting it.

I bought one for my son for Xmas--like I said, he uses 123 format lights, and I don't. I prefer to stick with 18650 for output and capacity, and AA for availability.

But the light for my son arrived yesterday, and I took it out to examine it, and...heavens, what an adorable little light! It is so tiny, I do not see any way to keep it out of my pocket!

The good news from my perspective is that I *still* do not like TIR beams, even in this pebbled version. It's an okay beam, maybe a 30 degree hotspot with very little spill outside of that. But it's not broad enough to where there's no hotspot, like my H502w, nor is it narrow enough to have *any* worthwhile throw, like my H52w. So I can use that as a reason not to buy a second one for myself.

The UI's not bad, though, and the moonlight is *almost* a real, sublumen moonlight. I also like the way that the turbo ramps up and down from whatever other level it was on.

Mostly--it's so tiny!


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## Swedpat (Dec 1, 2016)

Very attractive little headlamp! I think I will get one. In neutral white.


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## tbarb169 (Dec 2, 2016)

Well, i have to say I love the little light! I have only had the energizer led headlamps before, so this thing is so much better than the $5-20 lights i previously used. I was surprised walking my dogs that the lowest level was plenty of light on the bike paths in my town. A bump to medium was plenty of light to see what was coming ahead. Cant wait for my first trip in the woods at night to see how well it works in a non-urban area! So far it is A+.

Now i just need to determine which rechargeable battery I am going to run once the original battery goes.


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## wattstar (Dec 7, 2016)

So it appears all specials have finished. I haven't purchased an olight yet, does anyone know where is the best place to purchase from?

i am located in Australia. Thanks!


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## LeafSamurai (Dec 8, 2016)

wattstar said:


> So it appears all specials have finished. I haven't purchased an olight yet, does anyone know where is the best place to purchase from?
> 
> i am located in Australia. Thanks!



Hey mate, I'm from NZ and have heard good things about liteshop. They have the latest Olight models among the other online flashlight dealers in Australia. The link is: https://www.liteshop.com.au/brands/olight


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## budrichard (Dec 9, 2016)

I replace the POS Petzel I had on my Black Diamond climbing helmet with the H1 Nova.
The helmet has retainers for the strap and the light easily rotates in its mount. It's light, one touch operation with a good beam.
When I get Photobucket working, will Post a pic.-Richard


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## Olightworld (Dec 14, 2016)

Thanks Richard. I look forward to the pics. 



budrichard said:


> I replace the POS Petzel I had on my Black Diamond climbing helmet with the H1 Nova.
> The helmet has retainers for the strap and the light easily rotates in its mount. It's light, one touch operation with a good beam.
> When I get Photobucket working, will Post a pic.-Richard


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## Olightworld (Dec 14, 2016)

Thank you! You can use the recommended Olight RCR123A which is 650mAh and is protected to make sure you stay safe. Using the light in low and medium gives you great runtimes as well!



tbarb169 said:


> Well, i have to say I love the little light! I have only had the energizer led headlamps before, so this thing is so much better than the $5-20 lights i previously used. I was surprised walking my dogs that the lowest level was plenty of light on the bike paths in my town. A bump to medium was plenty of light to see what was coming ahead. Cant wait for my first trip in the woods at night to see how well it works in a non-urban area! So far it is A+.
> 
> Now i just need to determine which rechargeable battery I am going to run once the original battery goes.


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## kreisl (Dec 16, 2016)

sorry i didnt read anything here in the thread but this is good since my following take/impressions are completely unbiased, random thoughts about my H1-nw:

- the headstrap/headband is too small in circumference. it just fits okay on my head but so many ppl have bigger heads. i've lucked out, so i shouldn't complain.
- how do i wash the headband? btw there is no way to remove the rubber holder.
- the o-ring is super thin and is not seated deeply in a groove. since the light is so small in dimensions, it was probably not possible to machine a deeper groove. i lost the oring when i unwinded the rubber holder with the tailcap removed; later on i found the lost oring somewhere. i guess we ought to keep the tailcap on when fiddling with the rubber holder
- there is no accessory bag with spare orings wtf
- some protected 16340 don't fit, for example Keeppower 16340
- the tailcap magnet .. is it that dark thin ring? let's hope that it doesn't break/crack after a few flashlight drops
- the light is not as bright as Smini-nw.
- the Smini-nw seems to have minimal greens at the lower levels (moonlight - low - ), in comparison my H1-nw looks pure white, i.e. without greens at any level but also without any warm side to it. i expected a warmer tint but nw is not ww so how could i complain. am wondering what H1-cw looks like lol. in any case, i like the tint performance. non-greenish on all levels, that's quite something. And i do like pure white CW-tints, even though this one is supposed to be a NW-tint.
- the beam is diffuse, of course. no defined real hotspot. perfect for close-range application, goodie good-good!
- switch is great, UI too. a rich and very clever UI. failsafe, easier, more natural and practical and hence more likable imho than Zebralight UI. 
- what i really dig: are the 5 brightness levels. FIVE (moonlight - low - med - hi - turbo), a lot to choose from! it ensures that i get the "optimal" brightness level when i take the light from my drawer. typically med is enough, also with good runtimes and no heat build-up. for longer runtimes i could turn it down to low. if i really need hi brightness, then i could go there too. the 3min turbo is never needed, so it's good not to have it in the regular sequence of low - med - hi. very clever UI, i luv it!!
- the light is super light-weight, same as ZL
- the case is sturdier than expected and a perfect container which i wouldnt want to miss. previously i stored my headlamp mounted on a headband in a small transparent tütchen to keep the headband tidy. i certainly prefer the olight case now.
- i removed all stuff from inside the case including the clip. i stored the clip away. nice to have but i doubt that i will ever use it. quality of the clip is soso/reasonable, not as good as any Fenix clip quality. doesn't matter though.
- when i opened the case for the first time, i had to lol. i didn't expect the light to be that tiny. has the exact same footprint as Smini, the body diameter seems even smaller, crazy! (EDIT: Smini body diameter 20.00mm, H1 body diameter 19.50mm) This has to be the very smallest 16340 headlamp on the market. Definitely smaller than ZL!
- i have/had a total of 6 headlamps incl ZL and AT but always avoided using them whenever possible. not anymore. i bought the H1-nw so that i won't feel like that anymore but grab the headlamp without hesitation when handsfree op is required. H1 invites to let me do so. From now on i will make use of headlamps with enjoyment and higher frequency and regularity than ever before. a new era has begun, thanks to olight.
- i don't know about brightness regulation and energetic or lumens efficiency. if there comes a comparison review between ZL and H1 proving which model is more efficient, i simply wont read it. ignorance is bliss. to me this model is already the winner in every respect, ahead of ZL. olight has taken the lead in the 16340 flashlight and headlight realm, seems like.
- let's not forget the availability of official olight distributors around the globe, amazon, and the crazy 5years warranty!!
- yeah, sure i wouldn't mind a micro-USB charging port.
- i would also prefer a version in brushed stainless steel.
- maybe i'll tape my H1 with some gaffa tape for scratch protection 
- i didn't check standby current drain
- i am now a big fan of the H1! i will not buy the rechargeable version H1R, 1 headlamp for occasional use is enough for me. but i would luv a SS edition of the H1. *90°-lights in SS or Ti are an absolute rarity on the market!*

Congratulations to Olight on this fantastic release. 

I will not buy any Zebralight again. I sold all my ZL's, kept only the SC52w, and i get more joy out of an Olight package. *5 years warranty. *Just crazy!


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## Olightworld (Dec 16, 2016)

Thank you very much for the constructive feedback. I'm glad that all things considered you are a fan of the light. We haven't had any come back to us so I will take that as a good sign. The silicone is not effected by water so you can wash the headband with it still on by just throwing it in the wash and leaving it to air dry. I do agree with your point. The H1 just makes you want to wear a headlamp even if you never were used to it before. 

Enjoy the light and we appreciate your support as always!



kreisl said:


> sorry i didnt read anything here in the thread but this is good since my following take/impressions are completely unbiased, random thoughts about my H1-nw:
> 
> - the headstrap/headband is too small in circumference. it just fits okay on my head but so many ppl have bigger heads. i've lucked out, so i shouldn't complain.
> - how do i wash the headband? btw there is no way to remove the rubber holder.
> ...


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## scs (Dec 16, 2016)

Olight, I remember watching a video of one of your reps at a show showing a headlamp prototype that could be snapped onto/slid into the holder of the headband without first taking the clip off. Whatever happened to that concept? I think it's a great idea as the headlamp can be used handheld, clipped onto clothes or equipment, and over the head without taking the clip on and off.


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## Lumenwolf (Dec 16, 2016)

This will make a brilliant LEO vest light with the clip as super useful to read documents and see what you're doing keeping both ands free [emoji106][emoji363]


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## AvroArrow (Dec 17, 2016)

I just got mine from Amazon (sale last week) today and so far... not that impressed with its performance.

Anyone know how many amps this pulls on Turbo mode or voltage cutoff? I've tried 4 different AW RCR123 750mAh and the longest I get on Turbo is 25 seconds before it drops to High mode. It tripped the protection circuit cut-off on 2 of them. I've tried 2 different AW IMR 550mAh and the most I get is 3 seconds on Turbo before it drops down to High. All the cells are just off the charger. The review on page 2 of this thread showed the full 3 minute Turbo on an Olight IMR 550mAh cell. Is that the only one that can sustain Turbo? That and primary cells? 

Most of the reviews I found on another site are from people who got them for free and none of them mention anything about short turbo run times. The other possibility is that all my AW Li-Co & IMR cells are getting old and not up to snuff anymore. In which case this is essentially a 180 lumen headlamp for me, no better than my 6 year old Zebralight H51w with 172 lumens. 

As for the headlamp itself, it's definitely very white for something labeled as neutral white. Whiter than all my other 4000-4500k lights so it's probably around 5000k like the other reviewer posted earlier on this thread. Color rendering is meh. Beam is somewhere between a Zebralight H52 and H502. I never tried a Zebra H52F but I imagine it's probably something similar, a diffused reflectored beam, nothing close to the pure flood of the H502. 

Magnetic tailcap is nice. Brightness spacing for the 3 primary modes is okay. Turbo is relatively easy to access (for 25 seconds anyway). I really don't like how moonlight is sort of hidden away or not easily accessed as the other 4 modes. The case is superfluous, never used a case for any of my other 4 or 5 headlamps. The clip is the usual, wouldn't trust it to keep it on me if i snag it on something, but I bought it to use on my head, not clipped onto something. 

I've got 4 different Zebralights (H50, H50b, H51w, H502w) and wanted to try a CR123 powered headlamp and something a bit different this time and the price on sale was right (about 2/3 the price of a new H32w). So far I'm not that impressed with Olight's attempt at a H32F. Seriously considering returning it to Amazon and bucking up to get the H32w that I actually wanted.


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## LightObsession (Dec 17, 2016)

scs said:


> Olight, I remember watching a video of one of your reps at a show showing a headlamp prototype that could be snapped onto/slid into the holder of the headband without first taking the clip off. Whatever happened to that concept? I think it's a great idea as the headlamp can be used handheld, clipped onto clothes or equipment, and over the head without taking the clip on and off.



I was thinking the same thing. I would use it mostly with the clip, but wouldn't want to risk losing the clip if I had to take it off to use the headband.

I'm still looking for a light that will do that.


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## kreisl (Dec 17, 2016)

kreisl said:


> - maybe i'll tape my H1 with some gaffa tape for scratch protection


Kinda pathetic to do so but it's a high price i paid for such a small thingy so some protection is warranted. i don't wanna accidentally ruin the anodized finish only because the light is getting more frequent/regular usage than any of my collection lights. as said earlier, i'd really prefer a *stainless steel SS edition* of this light!!

not professional taping, yet i can't say that i am not a bit proud of the result:































16340 lights have come a long way. we've reached the tip of the evolution. :kiss:


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 17, 2016)

Nice job taping, Kreisl!

(With your name, I'm not surprised that you are good at making small circles!)

However, that tape is going to act like insulation on the head, preventing the cooling-fins from doing their job.

That means that the heat will trigger the thermal shut-down quicker on turbo.

Perhaps that is a price that you are willing to pay for protection from scratches.


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## kreisl (Dec 18, 2016)

Thanks!

At the Med mode (60 Olight-lumens) the light stays cool, doesn't get warm.

The light has thermal shut-down, really? I didn't know. If so, i don't need to worry about over-heating - the thermal shut-down would take care of it. I will run a long test at the 180 lumen level. For close up range, like arm-length and desktop table, 180lm is uber bright. 180 Fenix-lumens were the Turbo-mode of the LD20 R5, if you recall correctly


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## Tachead (Dec 18, 2016)

kreisl said:


> Thanks!
> 
> At the Med mode (60 Olight-lumens) the light stays cool, doesn't get warm.
> 
> The light has thermal shut-down, really? I didn't know. If so, i don't need to worry about over-heating - the thermal shut-down would take care of it. I will run a long test at the 180 lumen level. For close up range, like arm-length and desktop table, 180lm is uber bright. 180 Fenix-lumens were the Turbo-mode of the LD20 R5, if you recall correctly



The H1 does not have any thermal management. It has a timed step down just like the other olight models. This is one of the many reasons that makes this light inferior to the ZL offerings. Not only does ZL have advanced 384 step real-time thermal management(which can even be adjusted to your preferred temperature)but, they also have many more modes(including a few different "real" moonlight options), user programmability for output modes, more emitter and beam profile options, larger headband with removable silicone holder and even a gitd option, better battery compatibility and shock resistance(duel spring design), they are also lighter weight, and all for only $9 more. The only thing the H1 has going for it is the slightly smaller size and magnetic tail cap. But, ZL has been refining it's headlamp designs for a decade so it only stands to reason they would be more advanced.


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## kreisl (Dec 18, 2016)

Tachead said:


> the slightly smaller size and


*10.1mm *to be exact (according to official specs).

let's not forget the more versatile H1 clip, for up or down carry/clipping. nice carry case which i actually use. and 5 years warranty.
i don't like the PID on the H32w. against a white wall one can see how the ZL light gets dimmer and dimmer every 4sec right after initial activation on Turbo, the PID at work! I prefer constant brightness, heat building up, then big brightness drop, and light can cool off.

i had my share of ZL's. the PID of H32w really turned me off, i hated it. and i felt bad, the high price didn't feel right for what i got in return, so i had to let it go. looking back i can only think of the negative sides of the H32w and those 2 reasons why it really had to go. in comparison, thinking of the H1 there is no single point which is negative about my unit. the price is still high imho .. but i had a coupon or whatnot, i ended up paying less than the 55US$ MSRP.

basically i regretted buying the H32w.
and i don't regret having bought the H1. still expensive though!


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## Tachead (Dec 18, 2016)

kreisl said:


> *10.1mm *to be exact (according to official specs).
> 
> let's not forget the more versatile H1 clip, for up or down carry/clipping. nice carry case which i actually use. and 5 years warranty.
> i don't like the PID on the SC32. against a white wall one can see how the ZL light gets dimmer and dimmer every 4sec right after initial activation on Turbo, the PID at work! I prefer constant brightness, heat building up, then big brightness drop, and light can cool off.
> ...



But, it is also 16.5 grams heavier. Weight matters a lot more when it comes to a headlamp application imo. Its hard to see the extra cm when its on your head lol. 

I believe the ZL clip is reversible too(I rarely use a clip on a headlamp) but, a reversible clip isn't a huge difference on a right angled headlamp anyway and not having it doesn't limit its use like on a normal flashlight. While its nice that it is included, the case can be purchased separately if you really need it so can the similar Gloworm case for $3. ZL comes with a 1 year warranty and they have a flat rate repair of any problem for $15 for ever after that. With Olight, after the 5 years you are on your own. So, in the long run, I think the ZL warranty is preferable but, that is my opinion and YMMV. 

I read the post before you edited it Kreisl. You have said in other threads that you are a collector and not a user. You don't notice the PID step downs/ups in normal use as they are very small(there is 384 steps). If you used the light away from the white wall, you would know this. The nice thing about the PID is that it adjusts up and down to maximize the brightness while staying within the safe operating temperature limits. So, unlike the H1 that drops its output by 64% after 3 minutes, the ZL's will give you the maximum brightness for the conditions and will increase the brightness again, in real time, if the conditions get better. If you are using the ZL in good cooling conditions, you can actually get max output(480 lumens) for the entire battery. High price? The ZL is only $9 more and you get a much more advanced light. That seams reasonable to me:shrug:. 

We are all entitled to our own opinions and preferences. If you prefer the H1 then you made the right decision. But, that doesn't change the facts, the ZL is the superior light when it comes to electronic sophistication and features anyway. And, the funny thing is the H32 is couple of years old now and the H1 is new. I look forward to the further improvements and refinement that the next generation will offer(H33). 

I like the H1 Nova for the most part but, it falls short, by quite a bit, when compared to some of the other offerings in my opinion. The main things that bother me are the lack of real time thermal management, lack of a moonlight mode, not being able to remove or replace the silicone holder, and the high price when compared to the feature superior competition. Personally, I think both the ZL H32 and Armytek Tiara C1 Pro are far superior in most ways and a much better value for the money.


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## kreisl (Dec 18, 2016)

Tachead said:


> But, it is also 16.5 grams heavier. Weight matters a lot more when it comes to a headlamp application imo. Its hard to see the extra cm when its on your head lol.


well, i just got off the kitchen.

the H1 alone (*with my tape* but without headband and without clip and without battery) weighs *24g* on my +1g kitchen scale. the h32 is listed with 33g (with clip and without headband).
the h1 clip weighs 

my taped H1 = 24g (without H1 headband and without clip and without battery)
my taped H1 + H1 headband = 53g (without H1 clip and without battery)
my taped H1 + H1 clip = 30g (without H1 headband and without battery)

You're welcome.

apparently ZL CR123A battery weighs 15g. feel free to add 15g to the above figures. still lighter than the Zebralight!

i think i have won the debate.


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## Tachead (Dec 18, 2016)

kreisl said:


> well, i just got off the kitchen.
> 
> the H1 alone (*with my tape* but without headband and without clip and without battery) weighs *24g* on my +1g kitchen scale. the h32 is listed with 33g (with clip and without headband).
> 
> Which one/ones do you actually own between the H1 and the H32w?



I was going by the specs listed on Olight's website. They list it at 49.5grams without the battery. Maybe they mean with the head strap? Either way, its smaller and apparently lighter yes. That is a plus but comes at the cost of lower durability. 

I don't own either anymore. The only CR123a size headlamp I still own is the newest Armytek Tiara Pro(which is an awesome headlamp too and also has many benefits over the H1). I have switched to 18650 powered headlamps for the most part for their greatly increased runtime and output. My current favorite is the H600Fd&c MKIII. 

As I said, the H1 is an Ok headlamp and a good first try for Olight. But, a lot of improvement can be made in future versions and it is a poor value imo when compared to some of the offerings from other brands.


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## kreisl (Dec 18, 2016)

i have Tiara Pro C1 too. robust as hell. that's the one which i seldom dared to wear on my head, a frikkin weight and size monster! sure, bomb proof, 10m water dunk resistance, 10m fall drop resistance. but then again an overkill for when i want to use a headlamp. just now i peeled an orange at my other darker desk. put on the H1 as if i were switching on the desktop light!, meaning i wouldn't have ever considered putting the chunky Tiara Pro on my head !

if i were in a civil war, fire fighter, i'd finally agree to take the AT with me and wear it on top of a helmet. besides, i would probably never wear a 18650 headlight. if i needed a headlamp with 18650 power e.g. for extended work outdoors, i'd simply pack up my things and go home 

just saying that the H1, prolly the smallest and lightest CR123A headlamp out on the market, is like an EDW (everyday wear) light. if i actually need _robustez _for a certain lighting/diving situation, i'll pick the Tiara okay. but in all other instances the H1 is the always the pick, without even thinking.


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## gunga (Dec 18, 2016)

I'm just imagining you peeling an orange with your headlamp. Makes me smile for some reason. 

Any issues with the armytek?
You really like that h1 eh?


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## kreisl (Dec 18, 2016)

aah canada, armytek against geman squirrel 

no issues with the armytek. just that its over-the-top construction/robustez is not needed in an indoor situation, which reminds me of the conflicted reviewer of HDS Executive and HDS Rotary. i have them all, Tiara Pro C1, H32w, and H1 and some Niteye. And the H1 has become my favorite out of the bunch, easily.

in the past 2 years, ever since AT came out with Wizard Pro, other manufacturers tried to come out with similar offerings. heck even Eagtac tried to release such a headlamp! there are now so many similar headlamps based on the Wizard Pro design. when the H1 was announced, i thought that it would be yet another similar light but it turned out to be distinctive.

Distinctive how?

Well, for starters, it bears the title of the lightest and smallest headlamp of its kind (CR123A). And what i like about it in detail, i've posted before already.

EDIT:
runtime on *Hi-mode *on Eagtac16340 is ~*1h45min*, battery is then at ~3.0V, and light automatically steps down to Med-mode. When you try to go up to Hi-mode, the light steps back down to Med-mode after a few seconds. So then you know that there is not enough juice left in the battery. At 3.0V i consider the 16340 rather depleted and it's time to recharge it. Of course the runtime on a CR123A is longer because a CR123A has double the capacity of a 16340. i must say that my taped light does not get hot during the 1h45min. Eventually the body gets slightly warm, yes, but it's a far cry from anywhere near being called 'really warm' or even 'hot'.
For the Turbo-mode one definitely needs a fully charged very healthy battery, possibly unprotected. Otherwise the Turbo-mode steps down to the Hi-mode earlier than expected.


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## Tachead (Dec 18, 2016)

kreisl said:


> i have Tiara Pro C1 too. robust as hell. that's the one which i seldom dared to wear on my head, a frikkin weight and size monster! sure, bomb proof, 10m water dunk resistance, 10m fall drop resistance. but then again an overkill for when i want to use a headlamp. just now i peeled an orange at my other darker desk. put on the H1 as if i were switching on the desktop light!, meaning i wouldn't have ever considered putting the chunky Tiara Pro on my head !
> 
> if i were in a civil war, fire fighter, i'd finally agree to take the AT with me and wear it on top of a helmet. besides, i would probably never wear a 18650 headlight. if i needed a headlamp with 18650 power e.g. for extended work outdoors, i'd simply pack up my things and go home
> 
> just saying that the H1, prolly the smallest and lightest CR123A headlamp out on the market, is like an EDW (everyday wear) light. if i actually need _robustez _for a certain lighting/diving situation, i'll pick the Tiara okay. but in all other instances the H1 is the always the pick, without even thinking.




The other benefit to a bit larger and more beefy light is better heatsinking for much better performance when using high output.

See I think thats the difference, the H1 is a basic light for casual users who dont need many features, modes, or added robustness and just use their lights around the house(for peeling oranges for instance). Where as the ZL and Armytek models are better for advanced hard users who want the latest in electronic technology, more bells and whistles, and use their lights in harsh real world conditions. 

I do like the H1, its a nice little light. I just think it missed the mark and could have been a lot better. If it were cheaper(to better match its feature set) and had a real moonlight mode I likely would own one. I do greatly prefer real time temperature regulation as well over timed step downs.


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## Tachead (Dec 18, 2016)

kreisl said:


> aah canada, armytek against geman squirrel
> 
> no issues with the armytek. just that its over-the-top construction/robustez is not needed in an indoor situation, which reminds me of the conflicted reviewer of HDS Executive and HDS Rotary. i have them all, Tiara Pro C1, H32w, and H1 and some Niteye. And the H1 has become my favorite out of the bunch, easily.
> 
> ...




Yeah it is so tiny. Just like the S1. I look forward to version 2(H2? ). Come on Olight, give us a real moonlight mode, proper thermal management, a larger headband with removable/replaceable silicone holder, and a glass lens to protect the optic and I think you will have a real winner[emoji106].


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 18, 2016)

For my needs, the *only* thing that the H1 has that is better than the H32/H302 is its small size. 

Which is great! It's really tiny.

This also has drawbacks, like worse heat-sinking, worse durability, etc.,

If ZL redesigned their H32/H302 in order to gain back part of that 10mm difference in length, then I would buy the ZL over the H1 every time.

So I'm basically agreeing with Tachead, but I also understand why Kreisl is enchanted by the size. Entzückend ist es, wirklich!


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## AvroArrow (Dec 18, 2016)

kreisl said:


> For the Turbo-mode one definitely needs a fully charged very healthy battery, possibly unprotected. Otherwise the Turbo-mode steps down to the Hi-mode earlier than expected.



That's 1 of 2 of my main complaints (the other being the 5000k "neutral" tint), the 500 lumen burst mode might as well not be there for me since I can only get 20-25 seconds out of my best AW Li-Co cells. My AW IMRs last 1-3 seconds before step down. The only way I can get 500 lumens for more then 25 seconds is to use brand new quality primary cells. I am not buying a new set of Li-Co/IMR cells just for this headlamp. 



Tachead said:


> I do like the H1, its a nice little light. I just think it missed the mark and could have been a lot better. If it were cheaper(to better match its feature set) and had a real moonlight mode I likely would own one. I do greatly prefer real time temperature regulation as well over timed step downs.



I could almost live with what they call the moonlight mode, but it's so out of the way in the main UI that it's not intuitive to get to. But as it is, even at the sale price I paid (low $40s USD), I'm going to return it. Yes it is the smallest and lightest, but to me it's a 180 lumen 3 mode cool white headlamp with a magnetic tailcap. Maybe I've just been at this hobby too long and have gotten quite particular in my tastes and preferences. 


For those praising the Armytek C1/Pro, have they fixed the circuitry bugs? I see in the other thread a couple people having to reset their lights using 2xAA and wire/paperclip? It's also a fair bit heavier than the H32w and H52w. Does it feel heavier? That's one of the reasons I've avoided 18650 headlamps due to their bulk and weight.


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## kreisl (Dec 19, 2016)

AvroArrow said:


> My AW IMRs last 1-3 seconds before step down. The only way I can get 500 lumens for more then 25 seconds is to use brand new quality primary cells. I am not buying a new set of Li-Co/IMR cells just for this headlamp.


my Like New (old but unused) Nietcore 16340 sustains 1min15sec before the sudden drop. i hate that battery!!
my abused Eagtac 16340 sustains 3min, then gradually reduces output for 1min, as per Design Spec. a subsequent run gets only 1.5min Turbo-mode, then the sudden drop.
my Keeppower 16340 doesn't fit in the H1, too long. i tried to extend the H1 threads with a copper ring but my mod was too rough and no electrical connection was established. i gave up for good reason. the KP16340 works in my S1-Ti without problems because of the non-anodized threads.

16340 batteries are kind of pricey. me not likey!!


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## Tachead (Dec 19, 2016)

kreisl said:


> i have Tiara Pro C1 too. robust as hell. that's the one which i seldom dared to wear on my head, a frikkin weight and size monster! sure, bomb proof, 10m water dunk resistance, 10m fall drop resistance. but then again an overkill for when i want to use a headlamp. just now i peeled an orange at my other darker desk. put on the H1 as if i were switching on the desktop light!, meaning i wouldn't have ever considered putting the chunky Tiara Pro on my head !
> 
> if i were in a civil war, fire fighter, i'd finally agree to take the AT with me and wear it on top of a helmet. besides, i would probably never wear a 18650 headlight. if i needed a headlamp with 18650 power e.g. for extended work outdoors, i'd simply pack up my things and go home
> 
> just saying that the H1, prolly the smallest and lightest CR123A headlamp out on the market, is like an EDW (everyday wear) light. if i actually need _robustez _for a certain lighting/diving situation, i'll pick the Tiara okay. but in all other instances the H1 is the always the pick, without even thinking.



Oh Kreisl, I forgot to mention in my other post that if you want to lighten up your Tiara Pro, order the non-magnetic tailcap from Armytek. It shaves 13 grams off and also shortens the light by 7mm. It makes a pretty big difference. I run the non magnetic tailcap on both my Tiara and Prime Pro most of the time because I seldom need the magnet and prefer the length and weight reduction.


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## Swedpat (Dec 19, 2016)

I like the design of it. And while Zebralight has many available brightness levels I like the simplicity of H1 Nova. The brightness levels of Nova H1 are very well spaced. I will get the neutral version of it.


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## Lumenwolf (Dec 19, 2016)

Anyone know how the rechargeable batteries fair against the supplied one as its more than double the MAh?


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## AvroArrow (Dec 21, 2016)

kreisl said:


> my Like New (old but unused) Nietcore 16340 sustains 1min15sec before the sudden drop. i hate that battery!!
> my abused Eagtac 16340 sustains 3min, then gradually reduces output for 1min, as per Design Spec. a subsequent run gets only 1.5min Turbo-mode, then the sudden drop.
> my Keeppower 16340 doesn't fit in the H1, too long. i tried to extend the H1 threads with a copper ring but my mod was too rough and no electrical connection was established. i gave up for good reason. the KP16340 works in my S1-Ti without problems because of the non-anodized threads.
> 
> 16340 batteries are kind of pricey. me not likey!!



Thanks for your data points. Yeah, I bought it intending to use it with my RCR123s but since none of my 8+ cells can sustain Turbo in any meaningful fashion, it's going back. The CRI on their "neutral" is quite poor compared to Nichia 219s (expected) but even my other 4000-4500k XML/XPG have better color rendering.


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## iamlucky13 (Dec 21, 2016)

AvroArrow said:


> For those praising the Armytek C1/Pro, have they fixed the circuitry bugs? I see in the other thread a couple people having to reset their lights using 2xAA and wire/paperclip? It's also a fair bit heavier than the H32w and H52w. Does it feel heavier? That's one of the reasons I've avoided 18650 headlamps due to their bulk and weight.



As there doesn't seem to be a large number of Armytek users here, it's hard to get much data. I've had my Tiara A1 Pro for about two months now without issues, but sporadic issues can't be judged based on individual cases.

I don't think the 2 x AA reset was so much a bug as the compromise with what Armytek was seeking to do - allow the use of both regular AA's and unprotected lithium ions. Brand new AA's have a lower voltage than the safe minimum for lithium ions. Thus, if the light is in protection mode, it can't work with AA's.

The catch is AA's are then not a good backup for lithium-ions, and accidentally activating the protection mode is a major annoyance.

Maybe Armytek can come up with a better way of managing this, but I'm not sure how that might be accomplished. For the time being, I think buyers should consider it normal behavior and decide whether or not it might cause problems for them.

It should be a lesser issue with a C1 Pro than withe A1 Pro because a freshly charged CR123A should be above the lithium-ion protection voltage. As far as I know, it's a non-issue with the non-Pro versions because they don't have their own low voltage protection.



Tachead said:


> Oh Kreisl, I forgot to mention in my other post that if you want to lighten up your Tiara Pro, order the non-magnetic tailcap from Armytek. It shaves 13 grams off and also shortens the light by 7mm. It makes a pretty big difference. I run the non magnetic tailcap on both my Tiara and Prime Pro most of the time because I seldom need the magnet and prefer the length and weight reduction.



I can't believe I didn't think of this when I bought mine. It's such an obvious option, and I was concerned about the size and weight of the Tiara.

It's not unreasonably heavy, but it's definitely not a jogging light.


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## Andrey (Jan 7, 2017)

Rechargeable H1R Nova. Posted in another thread.


Andrey said:


> H1R is now available for preorder.


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## kreisl (Jan 7, 2017)

*







Poll: Would you buy Olight H1 in SS or Titanium?*


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## mightysparrow (Jun 22, 2017)

Is it possible to remove the magnet from the tailcap? It appears to be sealed into the lining - but I can't really be sure from the photos I've seen.


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