# Zebralight H600, H600w, H600F, H600Fw Mk III XHP35



## maitre (Jun 21, 2016)

Just got the email from Zebralight announcing the new H600 Mk III headlamps with XHP35 emitters!

My H600 has been malfunctioning so I pre-ordered the H600w Mk III which is going to be a nice ~375 lumen upgrade and in the neutral tint too.

How many of you are also getting one?


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## twistedraven (Jun 21, 2016)

I ordered 2 4500k ones just to have better chances of getting one with satisfactory tint; will return the one with inferior tint, or both if both suck.


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## maitre (Jun 21, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> I ordered 2 4500k ones just to have better chances of getting one with satisfactory tint; will return the one with inferior tint, or both if both suck.



I'm not too picky (or experienced) when it comes to tint - as long as it's "not cool", I'm usually happy with it. What do you look for in terms of tint? Would getting a high CRI model solve any tint issues?


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## twistedraven (Jun 22, 2016)

Basically I look for lack of green or magenta shift, and lack of tint variation from hotspot to spill. I'm not too sure if higher CRI models would be better in having less tint shift or not, but they would certainly render colors better.


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## lampeDépêche (Jun 22, 2016)

So should I buy one of these and replace my beloved H600w MkII? 

I'm not yet seeing the argument for it. Same size, not significantly different output.

Different emitter, but I haven't yet heard why that's enough reason.

They say the input voltage will be 2.7-6.0. But they *don't* say it's okay to run 2xCR123 cells in it. (Probably because it wouldn't support turbo). I wonder if it would be safe on lower levels? (I have run my H600w MkII on a single CR123 w/ a spacer. Fine for L and M levels.)

I will probably buy it some time. But I'd love to hear someone make an argument that I *need* it.


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## Lumencrazy (Jun 22, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> So should I buy one of these and replace my beloved H600w MkII?
> 
> I'm not yet seeing the argument for it. Same size, not significantly different output.
> 
> ...


 
There have been literally hundreds of Marketing studies aimed at understanding what motivates people to buy. The word new has the biggest impact by far. This light is new.


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## scs (Jun 22, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> So should I buy one of these and replace my beloved H600w MkII?
> 
> I'm not yet seeing the argument for it. Same size, not significantly different output.
> 
> ...



You don't.


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## lampeDépêche (Jun 22, 2016)

Lumencrazy said:


> There have been literally hundreds of Marketing studies aimed at understanding what motivates people to buy. The word new has the biggest impact by far. This light is new.



Thanks, LC. But that's an explanation of why it's buyers *will* buy it, not an argument for why they *should* buy it. 

I realize we all fall for snake-oil--I'm not immune myself. But that observation doesn't answer my question.

The H600 MkIII will be a great light, if it is at least as good as the H600 MkII--which has proven itself to be an insanely great light for several years now. 

My question was: is the Mk III a significantly *better* light than the Mk II?


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## maitre (Jun 22, 2016)

I am upgrading from the 1st gen H600 (cool white/750lm) to the H600w Mk III (neutral white/1126lm). Getting the colour temperature I want and a 376 lumen boost is definitely a significant upgrade to me.

The difference between the Mk II and III is not so great. My personal upgrade criteria is a 50% increase in output, 50% increase in runtime, or a significant reduction of weight (unlikely since these lamps are relatively lightweight already).

Wait for the Mk IV.


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## Beacon of Light (Jun 25, 2016)

I run all of my 18650 lights with 16430 cells and a dummy cell since I only use low levels and never need turbo or 100 lumens lol. I rarely use more than 10 lumens at all.


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## Sulik (Jun 26, 2016)

Beacon of Light said:


> I run all of my 18650 lights with 16430 cells and a dummy cell since I only use low levels and never need turbo or 100 lumens lol. I rarely use more than 10 lumens at all.


How many gramms you win this way?


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## Lumencrazy (Jun 26, 2016)

Beacon of Light said:


> I run all of my 18650 lights with 16430 cells and a dummy cell since I only use low levels and never need turbo or 100 lumens lol. I rarely use more than 10 lumens at all.



Inside a tent at night I have my *H600Fc III High CRI Floody Neutral White *set on the lowest setting. Even low 1 is enough to step outside when nature calls. My batteriy lasts forever. The high settings must be for those who are really terrified of the dark or camp under a streetlamp at a well-develped camp site. When in a survival situation having a high-lumen battery burner is a poor tactical choice. It will soon get very dark.


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## AngryDaddyBird (Jun 29, 2016)

Those new ZL look good! ZL is my favorite Headlamps and recently gave my Brother my H600w MKII. Only reason was I wanted to try the Armytek Wizard pro v3 XHP50 warm but have been regretting it! I love the Wizard. Great light but just miss my never failed H600w. Oh well I guess its a good reason to buy a new one. I miss the UI most of all.


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## Beacon of Light (Jun 29, 2016)

Sulik said:


> How many gramms you win this way?



I was hoping you meant grammys ::bows 3 times::

Seriously though, I just try to find new reasons to use my abundance of RCR123 cells. I have a bunch of 18650 cells from old laptop battery packs but I want to get every last bit of useable energy out of the RCR123s as they will fail sooner than the 18650s.


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## tex.proud (Jun 29, 2016)

I was looking for a ZL headlamp. This could have been the one. I have however, an AT XHP50 headlamp that this really doesn't compare to. I'm not a hater, and not affiliated with AT. I'm just a man that already has something that has made me reconsider the new ZL option. I have compared run times and lumen levels between the new ZL headlamp and the latest offering from ArmyTek. I'll be keeping my AT for now. Hate all you wan't. Check it out! Then come to me with an issue.

Tex.Proud


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## eraursls1984 (Jun 30, 2016)

tex.proud said:


> I was looking for a ZL headlamp. This could have been the one. I have however, an AT XHP50 headlamp that this really doesn't compare to. I'm not a hater, and not affiliated with AT. I'm just a man that already has something that has made me reconsider the new ZL option. I have compared run times and lumen levels between the new ZL headlamp and the latest offering from ArmyTek. I'll be keeping my AT for now. Hate all you wan't. Check it out! Then come to me with an issue.
> 
> Tex.Proud


I bought an Armytek headlamp and planned to buy more until I got. It's completely different than what they advertised, and they just say don't buy from their authorized dealers. I won't buy another from that company after my bad experience with them, and the way they handled the situation.


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## sidecross (Jun 30, 2016)

I use my ZebraLight headlamp below 150 lumens, and I appreciate the power reserve of a 18650 battery.


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## AussieRanga (Jul 3, 2016)

tex.proud said:


> I was looking for a ZL headlamp. This could have been the one. I have however, an AT XHP50 headlamp that this really doesn't compare to. I'm not a hater, and not affiliated with AT. I'm just a man that already has something that has made me reconsider the new ZL option. I have compared run times and lumen levels between the new ZL headlamp and the latest offering from ArmyTek. I'll be keeping my AT for now. Hate all you wan't. Check it out! Then come to me with an issue.
> 
> Tex.Proud



Really doesn't compare to? By that do you mean, reliable products from an honest manufacturer VS questionable (with repeated reports here) quality control, occasionaly mispackaged lights from a manufacturer with suspect intent as to how they market their country of _manufacturing?_

When you realize you're comparing LED lumens VS OTF it soon becomes clear that the output between the two really isn't that different and at those levels the amount of heat generated severly limits runtime so arguing superiority based on a few extra lumens at the cost of WAY more heat with nothing but convection as a means of heat dissapation is flawed reasoning. I have seen many reports about the new XHP 50 AT light getting insanely hot in little to no time at all. They claim it has thermal protection but the reports say it isn't very effective unlike the PID implemented on ZL models. But who am I to stop you wearing something potentially dangerous on the most important part of your body 

There's a reason you don't see any marketing fluff, constant sales and *limited* editions, *special* etitions etc from ZL and that is because ZL don't need the crap to sell their lights. 
It's OK though! When you realize you dropped your money on a marketing mirage instead of an actually solid product, the ZL's will still be the same price and you can thank me when you pick one up and realize for X amount of time, you were wrong :thumbsup:


EDIT: For the record, I'm not anti AT - I have a V2.5 Predator Pro and apart from the fact the lens scratched easily, even with a microfibre cloth (took a while to realize they installed the lens the wrong way), it was a good light for it's time. That has now been replaced by a light far smaller and about 50% brighter but I digress. If they upped their game in a LOT of areas they would do much better with fewer reasons for criticizm. At the heart of the problem however is their seemingly deliberate deception by claiming they are a Canadian MANUFACTURER even though they have never been able to provide evidence of such manufacturing plant there. They even go as far as insulting customers who call them out on the fact they claim that so boldly when finding that they are really manufactured in China is nowhere near as easy. Call a spade a spade. It's a Chinese light, just like almost every other one.


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## twistedraven (Jul 3, 2016)

The first and only Armytek I have is the Predator LE. Only after about 2 days the tail cap switch or driver-- I can't tell-- became faulty and the light now flickers and behaves erratically. Its hotspot is messy and the throw is nowhere close to advertise. I'm still waiting for them to release the XHP-35 HI models so I can turn mine in and possibly get it replaced with one of those.

At one point in time, it seems like Armytek has had some real winners. The Predator/Viking 2.5 models were highly highly recommended, with build quality rivaling or at times passing even Zebralight and Surefire (according to Vinh). The Wizard had high regards as well. These latest products from Armytek aren't quite up to snuff though. I'm hoping it was early manufacturing issues, and that their later batches of the new models will alleviate the issues.


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## sovereign (Jul 12, 2016)

Just received a shipping notification for a H600w Mk III. Any reason not to buy a NCR18650GA? Curious because this is not the cell listed by ZL in the related items.


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## Andrey (Jul 12, 2016)

After extensive research I came to conclusion that unprotected NCR18650GA are the best cells available for use in Zebralights and bought 10 of them.


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## Koam (Jul 13, 2016)

sovereign said:


> Just received a shipping notification for a H600w Mk III. Any reason not to buy a NCR18650GA? Curious because this is not the cell listed by ZL in the related items.




Also so got a shipped notice for the same light.


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## PB Wilson (Jul 13, 2016)

sovereign said:


> Just received a shipping notification for a H600w Mk III. Any reason not to buy a NCR18650GA? Curious because this is not the cell listed by ZL in the related items.



I've been using these unprotected cells with my H600Fd and it's worked flawlessly. Good price too!


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## Koam (Jul 15, 2016)

I just received my H600w MKIII and noticed that the only marking on it is CE. ZL doesn't have model #s on their headlamps? My SC600w MKIII HI and SC5w both have the model #s. Mainly just curious.

My Nitecore protected 3400 18650 is a very tight fit going in the tube and a bit of a hassle to remove. Can both protected and unprotected cells be used?

The light output compares favorably to my SC600w MKIII HI. The only other lights I own are the two versions of the Nitecore HC30. I do like the Zebralight but the Nitecores at $30 less seem like a much better deal. Not sure I see the quality difference with the ZL but I'm new to these lights and need to use the ZL headlamp more to see if I notice a bigger improvement over the Nitecores. Maybe I had my expectations raised too much from the SC5w and SC600w MKIII HI, which to me are amazing lights.


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## tex.proud (Jul 15, 2016)

Wow! I made a simple comment about getting an AT headlamp that has actually worked as advertised, stated runtimes, and....Whew! I don't care to share my thoughts on that.

I'm not opposed to getting a ZL headlamp! I actually have in my "Wishlist" links folder the H603w. I'm not a brand snob! I was just stating my own experience with AT thus far. Sorry that struck a nerve!

Carry on!

Edit: I just ordered one!


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## Sphinxxx (Jul 22, 2016)

Has anybody gotten an Fw yet? I ordered on 7-11, it said shipping starts 7-15, and on 7-15 it went straight to back order. I'm not experienced with pre-orders from ZL. Any thoughts on what i should expect?


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## scs (Jul 22, 2016)

Koam said:


> I just received my H600w MKIII and noticed that the only marking on it is CE. ZL doesn't have model #s on their headlamps? My SC600w MKIII HI and SC5w both have the model #s. Mainly just curious.
> 
> My Nitecore protected 3400 18650 is a very tight fit going in the tube and a bit of a hassle to remove. Can both protected and unprotected cells be used?
> 
> The light output compares favorably to my SC600w MKIII HI. The only other lights I own are the two versions of the Nitecore HC30. I do like the Zebralight but the Nitecores at $30 less seem like a much better deal. Not sure I see the quality difference with the ZL but I'm new to these lights and need to use the ZL headlamp more to see if I notice a bigger improvement over the Nitecores. Maybe I had my expectations raised too much from the SC5w and SC600w MKIII HI, which to me are amazing lights.



Well ZLs are potted; NCs aren't. Also read in another thread that ZL has switched to a stronger lens. ZLs have more efficient drivers so longer run times than NCs at comparable levels. Lastly ZL offers more tint options and perhaps even better tint.


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## Sphinxxx (Jul 22, 2016)

They responded to my request yesterday, 7-21, regarding the Fw, and said it would ship out in about 10 business days. In case anybody was curious. 

I really need to know if i like the neutral white so i can decide which sc63 mkiii to order. Or i just need my monthly flashlight fix.


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## insanefred (Jul 23, 2016)

Has anyone gotten their H603w yet, how do you like it so far?


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## tex.proud (Jul 24, 2016)

insanefred said:


> Has anyone gotten their H603w yet, how do you like it so far?



I've had one about a week now. Haven't put it to a lot of use yet, but liking it. 120 degrees of flood. Doesn't throw much at all. The reflector has a diffuse GITD coating on it. If you look closely you can see a very slight hotspot in the beam, against a white wall. No beam shots yet, but a bad pic at least showing the GITD reflector.


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## Sphinxxx (Jul 30, 2016)

This is the longest i have ever waited for anything. I lost my HC30, this is really cramping my after dark playtime. I have resorted to holding a flashlight in my hand like a pilgrim.


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## Thacker (Jul 31, 2016)

My H600w MK III has a nasty green donut hole. Once seen, cannot be unseen. The hole doesn't just show on a white wall, it appears on everything. The remainder of the spot and spill is perfect, but I've started a return. Not keeping a light I'll never use...

FYI - It looks just like this sc63 beamshot from another thread. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Spot-Normal&p=4936899&viewfull=1#post4936899


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## Sphinxxx (Aug 6, 2016)

I finally get my 600Fw, and it shipped with dead batteries. I have very little patience left for charging after waiting three weeks for the light. All my other batteries are big protected ones. I definitely think i can get used to the neutral light and the floodiness. So far it seems like i will be a lot more likely to use the higher outputs, because it doesnt melt my eyeballs like cool white does. This forum finally talked me into something Neutral, with all the beam shots in nature, and i am very grateful for that. This is a game-changer. And wow this thing is weightless. I am not a real beam/tint snob (yet), but from what i am seeing there is absolutely nothing offensive about the spread and the tone of the light.....flawless. I am inclined to use it for everything but i think this light will live on my bike handlebars. This will likely be my headlight for a 3000+ mile bicycle tour through the south this fall, charged directly with two 3.5w Voltaic panels and a nitecore F1 mounted on my panniers.

On a side note, i was trying to find an 18650 tail light, and this little headlight will mount neatly to my seatpost, with a red ping pong ball for a filter. H600 ordered. 1300 lumen strobe. Problem solved. Hopefully drivers won't have a stroke and run me over lol, that would totally defeat the purpose.


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## Collins (Aug 20, 2016)

What's the big differences between H600 Mk II XM-L2 vs H600 Mk III XHP35?


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## maitre (Sep 21, 2016)

So I FINALLY got my H600w MkIII after over 2 months of waiting. It should have arrived on August 17 but the post office messed up and it took an extra month. Anyways, just charged it up last night and used it to walk the dog. The tint is definitely cooler than the original H600w. I wouldn't call it cool white but it definitely leans away from warm.

The difference between the MkII and MkIII is the emitter. The new emitter is brighter and I think it has slightly longer run times?


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## Andrew479 (Dec 7, 2016)

I just want to share my 2c regarding XHP35-powered Zebra MK3s
I don't own any of them, but I'd advice against purchasing one.

First off, it seems that SC600 in its MK3 continuation has shorter shaft which makes it impossible to insert protected cells. 
That's at least what people have been complaining in the respective thread.

Secondly, XHP35 is a 12V chip, rather unsuitable for single-18650 flashlight. Even Zebra cannot bend industry standards, which is at best 90% step-up conversion efficiency. 
As the lm/W figures for XM-L2 are pretty much the same, it's clear XHP35 runs at higher current = more heat produced at 1100lm for neutral white. 
The SC600 thread mentioned current ramp-up between generations at about 2A (MK2 - 3A, MK3 - 5A), which seems just about correct. 
Given the numbers that's 5W more to be dissipated by passive means. 
It's also unclear how these XHP's are driven. Low frequency (<300Hz) PWM strobing is not entirely out of question (something that makes LED flashlights impossible to use). 

Bottom line, get MK2.


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 7, 2016)

Sphinxxx said:


> On a side note, i was trying to find an 18650 tail light, and this little headlight will mount neatly to my seatpost, with a red ping pong ball for a filter. H600 ordered. 1300 lumen strobe. Problem solved. Hopefully drivers won't have a stroke and run me over lol, that would totally defeat the purpose.



Have you looked at the NiteFlux Red Zone 800 from Fullbeam in Australia? It runs 4 red XPE's from an 18650. The cell is permanently wired into the enclosure, so that you cannot replace it with other cells, but it charges just like any other 18650 via a USB mini port.
Incredibly bright on high, with many lower levels and many flash patterns (as well as constant on/ no flash).

A lot of the links show you an older version with a carbon-fiber tube and silicon end-caps. I had a couple of those, and the light was great, but the end caps degraded from use. Make sure to get the new version from Fullbeam, in which the entire enclosure is a unibody piece of clear plastic.

It will be brighter than your H600 with a red filter, because the 4 XPEs generate a lot more red light than the single XML2 does--they convert all of the current into red light, at the LED and not through phosphors. With the XML2, the LED is making blue light, then the phosphors convert some of it to red light, then the red filter throws the rest of it away.


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 7, 2016)

Andrew479 said:


> I just want to share my 2c regarding XHP35-powered Zebra MK3s
> I don't own any of them, but I'd advice against purchasing one.
> 
> First off, it seems that SC600 in its MK3 continuation has shorter shaft which makes it impossible to insert protected cells.
> ...



Hi Andrew! Welcome to the forum. I see that this is your first post.

Your note has a couple of interesting points, but also some misleading points and some evidence-free speculation.

1) Misleading: the SC600 uses pogo-pins and requires unprotected cells. Some don't like this, some do (lower resistance, smaller light). But this has nothing to do with the H600 Mk III, which explicitly says on its web-site "One 18650 size (up to 69mm long) ". Up to 69mm means that it takes protected cells. So the case of the SC600 has nothing to do with the H600 Mk III, and it is misleading to compare them on this front. 

2) Speculation: You write "It's also unclear how these XHP's are driven. Low frequency (<300Hz) PWM strobing is not entirely out of question (something that makes LED flashlights impossible to use). " Zebralight has never used PWM in any of its lights, and now without any evidence you accuse them of using PWM, and then back that up by saying "it's not entirely out of the question"? 

You might as well say, "it's not entirely out of the question that MacDonalds is using human flesh instead of beef in its hamburgers." That is also evidence-free speculation that damages a company's reputation in an irresponsible way (or would if I were saying it seriously). It is also not something that anyone should toss around without very, very good reason. I don't see what reason you have to allege that ZL is using PWM, and you admit that you don't have one. 

I hope that your future contributions to the forum will be less inflammatory and stay closer to the facts.


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## Andrew479 (Dec 7, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Zebralight has never used PWM in any of its lights, and now without any evidence you accuse them of using PWM, and then back that up by saying "it's not entirely out of the question"?


I don't accuse ZL of using PWM in that sentence, but since H600w MK2 does have high frequency >50kHz PWM, there's a possibility this frequency was lowered to meet the demands of switching step-up transformer, which could leak some of its switching current to the LED in form of IMD as well, if improperly filtered.



lampeDépêche said:


> I don't see what reason you have to allege that ZL is using PWM, and you admit that you don't have one.


I never said I don't have a ZL lamp. I stated I don't own any MK3 lamp made by ZL. 



lampeDépêche said:


> I hope that your future contributions to the forum will be less inflammatory and stay closer to the facts.


I hope that what I say in the future won't be twisted to prove contradictory points and subjectively assessed without evidence. 

Thanks for the "warm" welcome though.


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 7, 2016)

Andrew479 said:


> I never said I don't have a ZL lamp. I stated I don't own any MK3 lamp made by ZL.



No, and I never said that you ever said that you do not have a ZL lamp. You are not denying what I asserted.

I said:

"I don't see what reason you have to allege that ZL is using PWM, and you admit that you don't have one. "

"you don't have one" in this sentence means "you don't have a reason to allege that ZL is using PWM". That's how reading works.

You admitted that you did not have a reason when you said "it is not out of the question" that XYZ. That's the weakest sort of evidence-free accusation you could make; if you had any solid evidence, you would bring it forward.

Now you are back, misreading what I said, and suggesting that I am twisting things and assessing things without evidence.

I'm not going to reply to you again, but I have asked the moderator to have a look at this exchange.


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## Andrew479 (Dec 7, 2016)

My replies were filtered, if mods find them unsuitable to the topic at hand, they didn't have to approve them.

Let's keep it simple. My H600w MK2 *does* use PWM (during thermal throttling at least). Therefore I assumed *all *ZLs might use some sort of PWM in one way or the other. Therefore "Low frequency (<300Hz) PWM strobing is not entirely out of question". Take it however you wish. Nothing is ever out of question completely. 

Not sure how a statement by anyone on the forum damages a company. 
True, honest company don't need to filter people's opinions, they let the products speak for themselves. I didn't imply in any way that ZL is a bad company, nor was my intention to do so.
Just that the choice of XHP35 wasn't particularly good one, since they had to mod the circuity and optics a lot to achieve _marginally_ better performance. 
As for how the lamp actually perform, I can only speculate, that's right, but numbers if properly interpreted don't lie. 

Anyway, thanks for the info about SC600 MK3, it now makes sense.


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## tex.proud (Dec 14, 2016)

My H600w MKIII XHP35 arrived today. Can't wait to get out this weekend! Here it is next to the H603w XHP35. You can see how the H600 has a deeper and lightly orange-peeled reflector, and the H603 has a shallower reflector with a diffuse coating.


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## Koam (Dec 18, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> You might as well say, "it's not entirely out of the question that MacDonalds is using human flesh instead of beef in its hamburgers." That is also evidence-free speculation that damages a company's reputation in an irresponsible way (or would if I were saying it seriously). It is also not something that anyone should toss around without very, very good reason.



The MacSoylent!


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## JanezFord (Dec 24, 2016)

Hello, 

I own both the H600Fw mk2 as H600Fw mk3 and I am very pleased with the MK3 with xhp35. My mk2 gave up after two years of abuse and now works only in H1. On lower settings it seems like voltage meter is not working properly and steps down after few seconds to a lower level and finally turns off the light. Even with full battery I get only one flash instead of four, but if I run it on H1 for a while to get it hot, I get 4 flashes  .. weird I know (yes, I have tried different batteries) but I use my mk2 now only for my night mountain-bike downhills (in combo with fenix on the bars) so it does not matter much to me because I run it on H1 all the time anyway . I use mk3 for everything else and I just love it. The tint is pleasant to my eyes, runtime a bit better than mk2 and output brighter but only if you compare it side by side. I do think that mk2 has a bit more gentle pid stepdown than mk3. The stepdown is quite noticable on mk3 but that does not bother me too much. Anyway, I hope for an xhp50 version of H600. It may seem a bit too much for an average user but I don't consider myself to be an average user and when you are flying through the woods at night on your bike more lumens is better and also safer to have. I use sc62w as my EDC but H600Fw MK3 is always in my backpack for handsfree operations at work. I work as live sound engineer and low lumen settings are perfect for discrete stage operations. If you already own the h600 mk2 than upgrade to mk3 is not so big that I would recommend it, but if you are buying your first h600 than IMHO it is worth the extra 10$ for a newer model over the old one.

JF


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## BigusLightus (Dec 28, 2016)

Of all the lights I've edc'd the H600 is my favorite. I own two and both have failed due to switch issues. The new models have exciting specs and as a flashaholic i want one. However, i can't see spending another $90 given my experience with two switch failures.


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## WigglyTheGreat (Dec 29, 2016)

Just curious if you have contacted support on your switch failures? If outside of warranty I have read they can repair lights at a reasonable cost. I haven't had an issue with my 3 zebralights yet, but like to hear if folks have positive results using zebralight support.


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 29, 2016)

BigusLightus said:


> Of all the lights I've edc'd the H600 is my favorite. I own two and both have failed due to switch issues. The new models have exciting specs and as a flashaholic i want one. However, i can't see spending another $90 given my experience with two switch failures.



Huh. That's unfortunate.

But I have had about a half-dozen H6XX lights (as well as 4 H5XX models), and used them in many applications (bicycle headlight on the handlebars, headlamp in underground crawl-space house renovation jobs, etc.), and I have never had any trouble with switches. 

It doesn't matter, really: ZL is obligated to make this good for you. Send them in and tell them to fix it.


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## BigusLightus (Jan 22, 2017)

Both of my H600's are well past the warranty period. Ive messaged ZL from their "contact us" page and have not gotten any response in almost a month. I really like my H600's and would like to get them repaired. No luck so far.


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## gunga (Jan 22, 2017)

Hmmm. They are supposed to fix them for $15.


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## Derek Dean (Jan 22, 2017)

Yes, I'd try contacting them again. It sounds like you might have caught them during the holiday rush, because typically they've always gotten back to me with 1-2 days, and sometimes within a few hours. 

But basically, you send them the light with $15, and a month or so later they send it back to you repaired.


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## BigusLightus (Jan 23, 2017)

Received my reply yesterday. Sending my lights in today.


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## MNDan (Jan 25, 2017)

Thacker said:


> My H600w MK III has a nasty green donut hole. Once seen, cannot be unseen. The hole doesn't just show on a white wall, it appears on everything. The remainder of the spot and spill is perfect, but I've started a return. Not keeping a light I'll never use...
> 
> FYI - It looks just like this sc63 beamshot from another thread. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Spot-Normal&p=4936899&viewfull=1#post4936899



I just checked one out and I have no idea what you are talking about. It's just a slightly brighter and cooler version of my Mk II neutral. It's awesome and I'm going to get one!


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## eh4 (Jan 25, 2017)

Great thread. From reading it I determined that time might be running out to get a spare H600w MkII, and so I finally ordered a spare, and sure enough I couldn't get an H600w, so I ordered an H600Fw instead. 

After the Mkiii have been out for a year or so I'll be looking forward to getting one, or a few.
For now though, being suspicious of new things and not knowing as much about electronics as I'd like, I'm concerned about the reliability of the higher voltage circuit vs the more proven MkII circuit. 

I asked nicely and got a few spare clear lenses in case that floody lense cracks, or I end up unable to stand that is not clear. So far though I love the Fw, I gave it an H type pocket clip with heat shrink reinforcement, same as the H600w that spends every day in my front pocket, but the H600Fw is staying in the headlamp strap that it came with, fantastic headlamp. The clip is just there for versatility.


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## Tachead (Jan 25, 2017)

eh4 said:


> Great thread. From reading it I determined that time might be running out to get a spare H600w MkII, and so I finally ordered a spare, and sure enough I couldn't get an H600w, so I ordered an H600Fw instead.
> 
> After the Mkiii have been out for a year or so I'll be looking forward to getting one, or a few.
> For now though, being suspicious of new things and not knowing as much about electronics as I'd like, I'm concerned about the reliability of the higher voltage circuit vs the more proven MkII circuit.
> ...



I wouldn't worry about the MKIII's. I have had my MKIII's for over a year now and they are working as good as the day I bought them. I am not your average user either and put a lot of use on my lights being a tradesman as well as an avid outdoor enthusiast(rock climbing, backcountry camping, hiking, fishing, hunting, etc.). Plus, they offer a 1 year warrant and will fix *any *issue after that for $15.


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## eh4 (Jan 26, 2017)

Glad to hear it! 
I'm stoked to have a spare MKII, and I'll be stoked to get at least one flavor of the MKIII as well, probably sooner than later.


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## MNDan (Jan 30, 2017)

MNDan said:


> I just checked one out and I have no idea what you are talking about. It's just a slightly brighter and cooler version of my Mk II neutral. It's awesome and I'm going to get one!



I take it all back! I just got the Neutral version of the 600 MK III and it indeed has a crappy greenish blob in the middle of the hot spot. I think the one I originally checked out must have been the cool version (which doesn't have this problem!). I guess this explains why it looked quite a bit cooler (though no blueish-ness) than my Mk II Neutral. It's going back and I'll be getting the cool version instead. I think Zebralight is going to see a fair number of returns due to this issue - it's very obvious!

Dan


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## Ag76 (Jan 31, 2017)

MNDan said:


> I take it all back! I just got the Neutral version of the 600 MK III and it indeed has a crappy greenish blob in the middle of the hot spot. I think the one I originally checked out must have been the cool version (which doesn't have this problem!). I guess this explains why it looked quite a bit cooler (though no blueish-ness) than my Mk II Neutral. It's going back and I'll be getting the cool version instead. I think Zebralight is going to see a fair number of returns due to this issue - it's very obvious!
> 
> Dan



This is not good to hear....after finding this forum and doing some research, I had about decided to purchase a ZL H600w Mk III. I'd read some reports about flickering in the L1 mode, but ZL support tells me this was not a known issue. Now reports of the "blobs" in the middle of the hot spot is enough for me to hold off on buying one for now. Has anyone gotten a 600w Mk III without the "blob", or should I think about going with the cool version?


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## Collins (Feb 8, 2017)

eh4 said:


> Great thread. From reading it I determined that time might be running out to get a spare H600w MkII, and so I finally ordered a spare, and sure enough I couldn't get an H600w, so I ordered an H600Fw instead.
> 
> After the Mkiii have been out for a year or so I'll be looking forward to getting one, or a few.
> For now though, being suspicious of new things and not knowing as much about electronics as I'd like, I'm concerned about the reliability of the higher voltage circuit vs the more proven MkII circuit.
> ...



Are there instructions somewhere on how to replace the lens on these?

I was looking at getting an H603d flood, and I've read the quad LED's on that can shine a cross artifact when looking at walls, etc. And so I thought if I found that to be annoying that I might could put a frosted lens on it.


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## Andrey (Feb 9, 2017)

Collins said:


> I was looking at getting an H603d flood, and I've read the quad LED's on that can shine a cross artifact when looking at walls, etc. And so I thought if I found that to be annoying that I might could put a frosted lens on it.


It's simpler than that.
Artifact was caused by the shiny bezel focusing emitter. Current batches of 603s have frosted bezels to resolve this issue.
In case you get a light from older batch and disturbed by the artifact, just paint the bezel with a dark marker, it will make it disappear.


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## Collins (Feb 9, 2017)

Andrey said:


> It's simpler than that. Artifact was caused by the shiny bezel focusing emitter. Current batches of 603s have frosted bezels to resolve this issue. In case you get a light from older batch and disturbed by the artifact, just paint the bezel with a dark marker, it will make it disappear.


 I'm ordering one directly from Zebralight. So I assume it will be the newer release and have the frosted bezel.


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## eh4 (Feb 10, 2017)

There are instructions here on CPF on how to replace lens for ZL lights, but there's no instruction on ZL site, and they don't recommend it. The bezel ring is pressed in, and it would need to be carefully pulled with a hook tool, and the bezel pressed back in carefully, maybe with an appropriately sized cylinder of wood or pvc and a C clamp.


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## Ag76 (Feb 12, 2017)

MNDan said:


> I take it all back! I just got the Neutral version of the 600 MK III and it indeed has a crappy greenish blob in the middle of the hot spot. I think the one I originally checked out must have been the cool version (which doesn't have this problem!). I guess this explains why it looked quite a bit cooler (though no blueish-ness) than my Mk II Neutral. It's going back and I'll be getting the cool version instead. I think Zebralight is going to see a fair number of returns due to this issue - it's very obvious!
> 
> Dan



Dan, any chance you've returned your H600w MkIII, and received a replacement with the cool version? If you have, I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts on this version. Thanks.


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