# Zebralight SC600 MKIII HI BUY IT!



## CelticCross74 (Mar 19, 2016)

Just got it yesterday no I dont have any pics yet I just felt the need to post my initial reaction which is HOLY CR*P!!! This thing is astonishing!! Will post pics here when the weather clears up


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## snowlover91 (Mar 19, 2016)

Nice! What do you like about it? How is the tint? Mine has excellent tint and being my first MK3 series light I like how well it can handle the turbo mode.


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## tops2 (Mar 19, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> Nice! What do you like about it? How is the tint? Mine has excellent tint and being my first MK3 series light *I like how well it can handle the turbo mode*.



Its feed back like this that makes me prefer to get the SC600 MKIII vs SC63w. I know SC63w is smaller and lighter, but personally it won't replace my Olight S1 for EDC purposes. And it feels like a slight "waste" to get a higher power light if the PID kicks in pretty quickly. I'm totally trying to wait till the high CRI version comes out but tempted to just pick up the SC600w MKIII now..


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## snowlover91 (Mar 19, 2016)

tops2 said:


> Its feed back like this that makes me prefer to get the SC600 MKIII vs SC63w. I know SC63w is smaller and lighter, but personally it won't replace my Olight S1 for EDC purposes. And it feels like a slight "waste" to get a higher power light if the PID kicks in pretty quickly. I'm totally trying to wait till the high CRI version comes out but tempted to just pick up the SC600w MKIII now..



Even when it kicks in I would say the output maintains at 700-800 lumens so it's still plenty bright, but yeah I agree the 63w seems to drop output quicker than my 62w did. I'm sure it is a result of the lighter weight and less thermal mass along with the more aggressive PID it seems to have. After adjusting mine now it stays in turbo about 20-30 seconds before the PID begins kicking in. My MK3 HI is great for maintaining turbo, I've not tested it for a long time but 2 minutes straight and it wasn't very warm and didn't seem like it had stepped down at all. The HI is quickly becoming my favorite 18650 Zebralight and if debating between the MK3 or HI version I would recommend the HI version since it seems to have a better tint and a little extra throw. I believe ZL has them in stock also.


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## markr6 (Mar 19, 2016)

LOL this is the second "BUY IT NOW" thread for this light. The last one pushed me over the fence so I bought one and it will arrive Monday. Can't wait!!

Thanks for the confirmation and looking forward to more feedback Celtic.


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## ven (Mar 19, 2016)

Vote for celtics beam pics! or i will get cross


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## Beckler (Mar 19, 2016)

Is there any way to justify getting this even if I already have a Nitecore MH20?


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## Vothelo (Mar 19, 2016)

Beckler said:


> Is there any way to justify getting this even if I already have a Nitecore MH20?



I did...justified it by telling myself I would compare the beams and keep one. Reality is I'll probably find enough reason to keep both. MH20 is much more throwy when compared to the ZL's. Agree though that S1 is best for EDC but then again I EDC four lights anyhow so I'll find a way to justify new lights!


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## emarkd (Mar 19, 2016)

Beckler said:


> Is there any way to justify getting this even if I already have a Nitecore MH20?



Well if you need a reason to justify buying a new light, you may not be quite as far gone as some of the rest of us  So I'm not sure if my comments will help or not.

Personally, I think the SC600mk3 HI is better than the MH20 in every way (well, the MH20 has a better built-in charger...). So for me that's good enough. The Zebra is brighter, more intense, has a _much_ cleaner tint, better regulation, better UI, and its much smaller. Here's a comparison photo for you:






Te be fair though, I never loved the MH20. When I need a "throwy" edc-able light with built-in charging I reach for that Manker. When I don't need the built-in charging I'll definitely be reaching for the new Zebra. The MH20 is just taking up room on the shelf.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 19, 2016)

What do I like about it? Its astonishingly bright, smaller than the MkII, has a more defined hot spot and throws a touch farther. Oh and its very light as well. As for the MH20 that light stays in rotation for its beam quality and throw. Tint is pretty much just like my NW MkII.


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## sidecross (Mar 19, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Well if you need a reason to justify buying a new light, you may not be quite as far gone as some of the rest of us  So I'm not sure if my comments will help or not.
> 
> Personally, I think the SC600mk3 HI is better than the MH20 in every way (well, the MH20 has a better built-in charger...). So for me that's good enough. The Zebra is brighter, more intense, has a _much_ cleaner tint, better regulation, better UI, and its much smaller. Here's a comparison photo for you:
> 
> ...


I gave away my MH20 to a brother, but kept the MH20 clip and put it on the ZebraLight Mklll. The clip keeps the light about .125 inch below pocket. The MH20 clip will prevent tail standing, but I rarely need this function.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 20, 2016)

man! Been using the MkIII HI as much as I can and well....I have no excuse to buy another light for a long long time. Talk about a high pressure light hose the beam on high out of this thing is so strong it near looks like you could touch and feel it. Range out of it I am finding to be amazingly close to or even with the MH20 which is saying a lot. I got the 3500mah unprotected cell ZL sells off their site for it and it works great. The increase in output vs my MkII to my eyes is clear and obvious. The MkIII does not get hot nearly as fast as my MkII does which is simply amazing. The amount of tech packed into this little light weight light is truly incredible. I dont see myself needing the billion extra modes and features etc Im fine with the High mid low. I can double click any level down a gear just like the MkII which is cool but dont see myself adjust the PID etc.

The weather here just threw a sudden cold snap we are expecting snow. I dont have the best camera but it is set to the best settings it is capable of for beam shots. I will do what I can when I can. The MkIII HI is the best light purchase I have made this year.


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## Valmet62 (Mar 20, 2016)

How much flood do you lose by going with the HI version ? I am looking to upgrade to a light for my night hikes , mostly in wooded areas. Is the SC600 MKIII HI a good option for covered areas ? I don't want to sacrifice food for a little more throw.


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## newbie66 (Mar 20, 2016)

I can't wait for mine!!!


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 20, 2016)

The MkIII HI is NOT the flooder the MkII is. That being said the beam profile out of the MkIII HI is amazingly wide coming out of such a small reflector. If its a ZL flooder you are after the MkII is still amazing. The new HI very clearly throws further and has far more definition to the hot spot. Still it is incredibly bright. I never thought I would ever see such a tiny light weight light this well made that cranks 1300 lumens. Just a couple of years ago this was the stuff people thought was 10 years off. So...no the HI is not a flooder but it is just SO bright the spill alone lights up a surprisingly wide area very well.

But when it comes down to it you loose a LOT of flood with the HI. My MkII NW is still the best most convenient flooder I have its wall of light is wide bright and near evenly bright all the way across with a large diffuse hot spot that can be hard to tell apart from the rest of the beam profile. The HI is like ZL took the MH20 shrank it, jacked up the output to 1300 lumens, improved the UI etc. The HI profile has depth and solid definition to the hot spot I am still amazed at how closely it throws compared to my MH20. Tint out of the MkIII is to my eyes the same as the NW MkII.


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## tops2 (Mar 20, 2016)

If I prefer more flood than throw, would you recommend the normal MKIII instead of the HI version? I like my SC5w in the smoothness of the hotspot to spill. I'm starting to not prefer well defined hotspot that much nowadays...


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## snowlover91 (Mar 20, 2016)

tops2 said:


> If I prefer more flood than throw, would you recommend the normal MKIII instead of the HI version? I like my SC5w in the smoothness of the hotspot to spill. I'm starting to not prefer well defined hotspot that much nowadays...



If I remember correctly people who had the MK3 and MK2 said the regular MK3 actually seems to have a slightly smaller hotspot but for all purposes they would probably be fairly similar. The main difference is the extra output the MK3 would provide, 1300 lumens for neutral versus around 1000-1100 for the MK2 neutral. If you don't like a dedicated hotspot the MK3 HI wouldn't be a good option and even the MK3 since the deeper reflector will have a tighter hotspot than the SC5 would. The SC62/63 series would provide a beam profile similar to your SC5 though.


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## tops2 (Mar 20, 2016)

Ahh! Thanks for the feedback. Decisions decisions..


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## markr6 (Mar 20, 2016)

I still shake my head when you guys call the SC600 (non-HI) series "floody". I always consider it a small thrower. Maybe that's just due to my other lights that I can compare it to.


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## Sphinxxx (Mar 20, 2016)

I sold my ZL headlamp and got an MH20 and i miss the zebra interface so much. I'm adjusting though. I had the H600 Mk2 18650 headlamp. And i HATED how fast it would kick down into a much lower brightness, but i think that happened because i used it for night time winter bicycle commutes. So not a heat/PID thing, I think it was just a cold 3.6v battery not keeping up with the drain. At home it would stay on, but in a sub-freezing wind it stayed on high for about 8 seconds. 
For cycling use, im not into this trend towards neutral white floody. I need throw, and the ability to really leave a lasting ache in the eyeballs of drivers.
If ZL ever makes a headlamp with the XHP35, i'm in, and it better have a 10 degree spotty.


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## Tachead (Mar 20, 2016)

Sphinxxx said:


> I sold my ZL headlamp and got an MH20 and i miss the zebra interface so much. I'm adjusting though. I had the H600 Mk2 18650 headlamp. And i HATED how fast it would kick down into a much lower brightness, but i think that happened because i used it for night time winter bicycle commutes. So not a heat/PID thing, I think it was just a cold 3.6v battery not keeping up with the drain. At home it would stay on, but in a sub-freezing wind it stayed on high for about 8 seconds.
> For cycling use, im not into this trend towards neutral white floody. I need throw, and the ability to really leave a lasting ache in the eyeballs of drivers.
> *If ZL ever makes a headlamp with the XHP35, i'm in*, and it better have a 10 degree spotty.



The H600/600w MKIII come out later this year and will likely use the XHP35.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 20, 2016)

as for being "floody" my NW MkII puts out a big wall of light with nearly no discernible hot spot I actually like it a lot. This new HI I have is totally a pocket thrower am still amazed at how much output this little thing cranks out. The Sanyo 3500mah 10 amp cell I got for it off the ZL site is out freaking standing so far. As sophisticated as the ZL UI is I am just not coordinated enough to get all the timing down to do the number of needed clicks etc to work through the bazillion features the light has. I actually prefer the MH20 UI lol....


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## Tachead (Mar 20, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> as for being "floody" my NW MkII puts out a big wall of light with nearly no discernible hot spot I actually like it a lot. This new HI I have is totally a pocket thrower am still amazed at how much output this little thing cranks out. The Sanyo 3500mah 10 amp cell I got for it off the ZL site is out freaking standing so far. As sophisticated as the ZL UI is I am just not coordinated enough to get all the timing down to do the number of needed clicks etc to work through the bazillion features the light has. I actually prefer the MH20 UI lol....



I like the programmability and more modes of ZL and the UI is great for the most part but, I really like the UI of the MH20 too. The 3 stage switch is definitely a step up on the ZL's imo. ZL's UI has some major flaws imo too like getting flashed by high when you do the double click to go to medium from off and also occasionally blinded yourself by high when you get the timing off to go to low. I dont understand why ZL doesnt just swap the two and it would solve both problems. It should be hold for 0.6 to go to high and single click to go to low. Then when you double clicked from off you would get only a flash of low to go to medium and if you got the timing off for high you would only get flashed by low. Seems like a no brainer:shrug:


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## Connor (Mar 20, 2016)

Tachead said:


> I dont understand why ZL doesnt just swap the two and it would solve both problems. It should be hold for 0.6 to go to high and single click to go to low.



I wouldn't like that at all - I prefer the short click to get H1 *immediately. 
*The proper way to solve this dilemma is to make the next ZL version Bluetooth LE/InterNet of Things enabled, so we can control stuff like this via an app.


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## Tachead (Mar 20, 2016)

Connor said:


> I wouldn't like that at all - I prefer the short click to get H1 *immediately.
> *The proper way to solve this dilemma is to make the next ZL version Bluetooth LE/InterNet of Things enabled, so we can control stuff like this via an app.



I like the short click to high too but, would gladly sacrifice it to not get blasted in the eyes by high. It really makes the shortcut to medium pretty much useless and that is probably my most used mode. And, it really sucks the odd time at night, with dark adapted eyes, getting brutally blasted by high when you miss time going to low. This is especially bad on a headlamp. I can tolerate it on a flashlight.


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## snowlover91 (Mar 20, 2016)

Maybe if ZL just made it so that we could program it how we want. For example if you like a single click for high you can program it that way but if a single click for low is preferred it could be changed also. That way those of us who like the single click high can keep that and then others who want a single click for low can program it that way


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## Tachead (Mar 20, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> Maybe if ZL just made it so that we could program it how we want. For example if you like a single click for high you can program it that way but if a single click for low is preferred it could be changed also. That way those of us who like the single click high can keep that and then others who want a single click for low can program it that way



Yep, that would be a good solution. Again, I like the single click to H1. If they could keep that and get rid of the other problems that would be even better. The preflash to medium and timing accidents for low are really the only bad things about the ZL UI. But, they are really bad things imo. That's where a 2/3-stage button like on the MH20 would really be a benefit to ZL. It could be full click for Hi, half click for low, and press and hold for medium. Then all the issues would be eliminated, no medium preflash and no accidental retina burn for low/moonlight.


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## scout24 (Mar 20, 2016)

At the risk of straying further off topic *cough cough* I find if I need high mode, I want it right now. If I need moonlight, there's generally less urgency, and cupping the light against my palm, thigh, etc. makes sure I get the timing right. Connor, above, has the solution. Have both options available in the software. Heck, SF managed it on the Sidekick!!!


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## Tachead (Mar 20, 2016)

scout24 said:


> At the risk of straying further off topic *cough cough* I find if I need high mode, I want it right now. If I need moonlight, there's generally less urgency, and *cupping the light against my palm, thigh, etc.* makes sure I get the timing right. Connor, above, has the solution. Have both options available in the software. Heck, SF managed it on the Sidekick!!!



That's fine for a flashlight(that's why I said I can tolerate it on a flashlight in post #25) but, not so easy with an H model when its strapped on your head. Plus, it makes the shortcut to medium a pain(not really a shorcut if you have to cup it). I think the MH20 2-stage button is a great solution too and would allow the UI to stay exactly the same.

You right though, caution derail in progress. Sorry It all started with the comparison of the SC600 HI and MH20. Sometimes some good conversation happens because of a derail though:shrug:


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## scout24 (Mar 20, 2016)

That's why I added my two cents after reminding myself I was OT...  Maybe a Zebra UI discussion thread if none exists, or bumping one for further discussion if it already exists? Seems to be strong opinions worth debating...


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## jetslipper (Mar 20, 2016)

Can anybody post actual runtimes for this light? I am planning to try ZL if the budget permits and actual runtimes would be very helpful. Or a complete review from those who already have this light.


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## snowlover91 (Mar 20, 2016)

jetslipper said:


> Can anybody post actual runtimes for this light? I am planning to try ZL if the budget permits and actual runtimes would be very helpful. Or a complete review from those who already have this light.



I haven't measured runtimes yet but can try to answer any questions you have and give feedback based on my experience with the HI model. In my experience with ZL their runtimes for medium and hi settings are usually fairly accurate, although the PID levels will vary significantly based upon actual real world conditions, temperatures, etc. The moonlight settings can be much longer than advertised or a little shorter. There was a moonlight duration test conducted awhile back by myself and many other members for ZL and we found the moonlight mode varies quite a bit (days sometimes) for the exact same light. Possible causes could be circuit variation, led efficiency and variations, battery and temp differences, etc. Regardless I find moonlight modes less than 1 lumen can have varying runtimes among the same light series. Either way from the test users who conducted it found they could get 2-4 week runtime on some of the lower modes. The lowest modes weren't tested since it would take too long. 

Regarding the Hi model I like it a lot. Tint is excellent, it's compact, manages heat well and throws decently. My estimate of the throw would be around 16,000cd which matches up well with a user who measured 17,000cd from his sample. UI is typical ZL and works great. Turbo is the real deal putting out a legit 1100+ lumens and when tested outdoors in a field it threw the farthest of any lights I currently own (no throwers in my collection so this is the best I own for now). My P60 Nichia has a tighter hotspot but doesn't throw as far since it has around 400 lumens. Tint is pretty close to my Nichia which is good imo. Only drawbacks to consider are that it uses only unprotected flat top cells (fine by me but some may mind) and the clip is a pop on clip.


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2016)

Yes, BUY THIS!!!! It just arrived and I'm really happy with the beam profile. Nice focused beam without being a laser-pointer type thrower. Still very useful and could pass as a replacement for the regular SC600 beam.


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## Alex1234 (Mar 21, 2016)

is this instock anywhere? looks like backorder city :/


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## emarkd (Mar 21, 2016)

Alex1234 said:


> is this instock anywhere? looks like backorder city :/



Its been going in and out of backorder very quickly lately. I'd say the supply has _almost _caught up with demand at this point. You can always message Zebra for a lead time, they're good about providing that when asked, but I bet the backorder wait would be quite short at this point.


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2016)

I've wondered about that. It says in stock for only hours or up to a couple days, then back to backorder...then repeats.

1. Are they really just receiving a dozen at a time from China? That doesn't make sense regarding production and shipping.
2. Are they selling a TON of these? Receiving a large order and selling out that quick?
3. Are they receiving a large shipment and splitting the inventory between direct sales and vendors? I don't think so since the direct sales get priority from what I hear.

I'm glad I ordered when I did. It came in just 2 days (usually 3)


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## newbie66 (Mar 21, 2016)

Thx for the pics. I find the SC600w HI the best looking light of the three.


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## snowlover91 (Mar 21, 2016)

Mark how is the tint on your HI model? It looks like a clean and warm neutral similar to mine. I have to say my HI has the best tint now of all my Zebralights and is right up there with my Nichia.


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> Mark how is the tint on your HI model? It looks like a clean and warm neutral similar to mine. I have to say my HI has the best tint now of all my Zebralights and is right up there with my Nichia.



It's great; an exact match to my SC600w III (sold) and SC63w. Personally, they're a bit warm for me but not something I could really complain about since there's no ugly colors involved. Number to numbers though, it's warmer than my 4500K Nichias after ignoring the CRI difference. I would say closer to the old school ZLs with 4300K or less.

Great beam...VERY useful. I will be taking this on my backpacking trip next week. I usually only take my H600w, but this will be fun to play around with.


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## jorn (Mar 21, 2016)

Tachead said:


> ZL's UI has some major flaws imo too like getting flashed by high when you do the double click to go to medium from off and also occasionally blinded yourself by high when you get the timing off to go to low. I dont understand why ZL doesnt just swap the two and it would solve both problems. It should be hold for 0.6 to go to high and single click to go to low. Then when you double clicked from off you would get only a flash of low to go to medium and if you got the timing off for high you would only get flashed by low. Seems like a no brainer:shrug:


No no no, just dont doubleclick for medium, problem solved. If i want to go to medium, i just press and hold until its on medium. Same with lo. Fast click for high. Everything else, press and hold. If they swapped 0,6 sek hold for high, and fast click for lo, everything would be screwed. It would cycle high-med-lo when you hold the button, and that stinks


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## recDNA (Mar 21, 2016)

All the ZL are floody. Kind of their thing I know but I would love a thrower.


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## emarkd (Mar 21, 2016)

recDNA said:


> All the ZL are floody. Kind of their thing I know but I would love a thrower.



So would I, and this mk3 HI light still isn't one in my opinion, but its the "throwiest" light Zebra has ever offered. And honestly for its size, its got pretty good range I think. I measured mine at 19,010 cd, which is 276m of throw. Tons of light still in the spill too, which gives it a very usable beam shape for "general" use (whatever that means  )


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## ven (Mar 21, 2016)

~20kcd is very impressive for this size of light, cant expect much more realistically.I am very tempted, cant see you being let down recDNA!!


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2016)

No, not a thrower. A "thrower" can be subjective, but for me that is a light that ONLY serves that purpose, and serves them well. Something you take outside to see an animal running 200m away without lighting up the entire neighborhood in the processs. I'm sure ZL will never make something like that, and I'm fine with that. Leave that to someone with a totally different UI and format (i.e. Eagletac with a momentary forward clicky tail cap)

This HI on the other hand is typical Zebralight awesomeness. A little more punch I feel the standard SC600w needs.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 21, 2016)

I read awhile ago ZL which is based in Texas is actually making parts in Texas now. Idk what parts are still made in China but I believe the long lead time for resupply of inventory is ZL having to do whatever they do in order to build the lights out of parts made in two different countries. The MkIII HI is a hell of a light one of the best high output LED light purchases I have ever made. The 8 dollar 3500mah 10amp Sanyo unprotected flat top ZL sells that fits the light so far flat out rocks.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 21, 2016)

I just received my Zebralight SC600 III HI. I ordered it directly from Zebralight.com last Thursday. This came from their 2nd restock, so wasn't a preorder like all my other Zebras.

I immediately put in a NCR18650b unprotected cell and fired it up. My initial impressions:



*No noticeable inductor whine in any mode.* When I tested the SC600w III at Illumn I was able to hear quite a loud whine. In contrast my new 600 III HI has no whine even when I stick the head of the light right up to my ear. 
*Slight Battery rattle.* Battery rattle is noticeable if I shake the light moderately. This is because the light has pogo pins at both ends and lacks a strong spring to hold the battery in place. In contrast the SC63w has no rattle. I do not think the rattle is a big issue as it only appears when the light is shaken vigorously... something that shouldn't happen often. 
*No Battery skipping*. With the light on in one hand I tried slapping or punching the back of the light with the palm of my other hand. I was testing whether the lack of a full spring would cause the light to loose electrical connection when subjected to shock. No matter how hard I hit it, the beam never wavered. I conclude that the pogo pins provide sufficient connection. 

I haven't yet had a chance to directly compare the beam to my other Zebras or measure the throw. It's definitely more focused with most of the beam confined to a relatively small spot. Much less floody than my other Zebras.

My initial impression is quite positive. It's bright, feels good in the hand and has a nice beam.


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## jonnyfgroove (Mar 21, 2016)

Alright, this thread has brainwashed me into convincing myself that I need another flashlight. The last 1 x 18650 light I bought was the ET D25LC2 twisty with an XP-G emitter. Fantastic light, but I think the ZL will be well worth the upgrade.


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## DeeFff (Mar 21, 2016)

I'm this far -><- from being thread-brainwashed; if someone posts comparative beamshots I'm sure I'll drink the Kool-Aid


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## markr6 (Mar 21, 2016)

Fireclaw18 said:


> *Slight Battery rattle.* Battery rattle is noticeable if I shake the light moderately. This is because the light has pogo pins at both ends and lacks a strong spring to hold the battery in place. In contrast the SC63w has no rattle. I do not think the rattle is a big issue as it only appears when the light is shaken vigorously... something that shouldn't happen often.




Buy the clear wrappers from Illumn for $1. Heat on with a hair dryer. Looks good, fits good, NO rattle. I did that to all my naked cells.


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## newbie66 (Mar 24, 2016)

+1 Fireclaw18


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## newbie66 (Mar 24, 2016)

jonnyfgroove said:


> Alright, this thread has brainwashed me into convincing myself that I need another flashlight. The last 1 x 18650 light I bought was the ET D25LC2 twisty with an XP-G emitter. Fantastic light, but I think the ZL will be well worth the upgrade.



It is an amazing light. Stop thinking and get one.


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## newbie66 (Mar 24, 2016)

DeeFff said:


> I'm this far -><- from being thread-brainwashed; if someone posts comparative beamshots I'm sure I'll drink the Kool-Aid



Just get it, man!


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 24, 2016)

just buy it and the unprotected 3500mah Sanyo cell ZL sells on their site. No rattle. I have thousands and thousands of dollars worth of the greatest hits in high output LED lights over the past few years and the MKIII HI is one of the best of them. Have had the MkII NW since that one came out as well. The MkIII HI makes the MkII look dim. The fit and finish on my MkIII HI in ingot like its perfect. Texas based ZL has one hell of a design team the features etc. that this light has AND its potted is world class all the way. ZL must have one of the best electrical engineering teams in the entire industry a lot of talent and professional skill went into this design(and the other ZL's). I still cannot wrap my mind around the fact that my MkIII HI does not get hot nearly as fast as my MkII does I have no idea how they did it.

My only complaint is the UI. Sure, the switch is an excellent design and made of high quality parts but I just do not have the patience or dexterity to access the lights bazillion modes and functions through timed multi clicks. The two stage switch on the MH20 would be a big step up if it were on a ZL. I am fine with the lights 3 main modes and double clicking to throttle down in each mode that alone serves my needs fine I really have no use for the long list of other features. I have tried to access them going by the instructions that came with the light but would just end up blinding myself in strobe mode. Regardless the MkIII is another classic from ZL. The unprotected Sanyo cell that came with the light is really very good and charges a bit faster than my protected cells.


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## jonnyfgroove (Mar 24, 2016)

I went ahead and ordered one the other day. It did say "backorder" so I guess I'm in for a bit of a wait. Looks like it will be worth it though. When Vinh raves about the light and says he cannot improve it, that's all I need to know. :thumbsup:


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## PoliceScannerMan (Mar 24, 2016)

Would love to see some beam shots comparing the HI to the MKII, thanks!


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## markr6 (Mar 24, 2016)

PoliceScannerMan said:


> Would love to see some beam shots comparing the HI to the MKII, thanks!



Unfortunately the MKII shot I did earlier this week turned out blurry and it didn't represent the beam well. I was too lazy to go back out and reshoot comparing both. I should have since there is a substantial difference. I'll try to get to that soon unless someone beats me to it.


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## ntalbot (Mar 24, 2016)

jorn said:


> No no no, just dont doubleclick for medium, problem solved. If i want to go to medium, i just press and hold until its on medium. Same with lo. Fast click for high. Everything else, press and hold. If they swapped 0,6 sek hold for high, and fast click for lo, everything would be screwed. It would cycle high-med-lo when you hold the button, and that stinks



+1


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## ntalbot (Mar 24, 2016)

You convinced me to order one, curse you! Curse you all!


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## run4jc (Mar 24, 2016)

Alright - y'all are killing me. I was all set to add to my 7 Zebralights with an SC62d. I have an SC63w, SC62w, SC32w, H31w, H502d, SC52 and SC52NW L2. Love that good, neutral tint that the SC62w has - perhaps a bit better than the SC63w's tint. Thought an SC62d would be a great tint to have, but all these rave reviews of the SC600 MKIII HI are really getting to me.

Talk to me, someone!


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## Lou Minescence (Mar 24, 2016)

Just received my SC600 MK3 HI today. Looks and feels great. Mine has a slight discoloration on the tail cap knurling. Not a problem for me. Im just waiting for dark now.

Does a cool white SC600 MK3 HI exist ? 

I see an SC600 MK3 XHP35 but not " HI " version cool white.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 24, 2016)

this is all of course subject to change but for now the HI MkIII is just NW. A CW version may pop up out of nowhere at some point who knows yes there is the non HI that is cool white. I only have 2 Zebras the MkII NW and this new MkIII HI both NW so Idk what a ZL CW is like. I do indeed enjoy a well chosen CW emitter Im not stuck on NW so Ill be checking YT reviews for CW Zebras. Must add my MkIII HI is much more halogen like in tint vs my NW MkII. The output out of my MkIII HI makes my MkII look plain dim the HI has such high output. Amazing. Just a year ago I would have never thought Id have such a light and that 1300 lumen pocket lights were still a few years off.


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## snowlover91 (Mar 24, 2016)

What's impressive to me is the fact that it maintains the output for so long on turbo and runs relatively cool for such high output.


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## recDNA (Mar 24, 2016)

emarkd said:


> So would I, and this mk3 HI light still isn't one in my opinion, but its the "throwiest" light Zebra has ever offered. And honestly for its size, its got pretty good range I think. I measured mine at 19,010 cd, which is 276m of throw. Tons of light still in the spill too, which gives it a very usable beam shape for "general" use (whatever that means  )


It is. I thought throw was more like 16k. Either way though a narrower beam angle and more discernable hotspot would be present in a "thrower". In that beamshot of a tree at only 50 feet there is no hotspot at all I could see. It probably would require a deeper reflector and smaller led to get the kind of beam I speak of. I have to admit though if it really gets 19k cd I can't expect much more than that. I wonder if a Mark 2 with XP-L high or even dedomed XP-G2 would do as well? They might have a brighter more separated hotspot.


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## Oztorchfreak (Mar 25, 2016)

I have most of the Zebralight range now and this newest entry is brilliant.

The beam is a nice Cool White with no noticeable artefacts.

The beam is just that bit brighter than the MKII version that I have.

It lights up my backyard really well with it's wide beam spill.

The centre spot throws quite well.

All in all a great little light to EDC.

I prefer it over my SC63 as it does not get as hot as it does.

It might be a bit bigger than my SC63 but I prefer it to carry.



CHEERS


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## Swedpat (Mar 25, 2016)

Because of my liking of the 1AA Zebralights I have(probably the finest 1AA lights available, and I am waiting for the delivery of another two) An 18650 version may be what's missing in my collection. But I think I will go for the predecessor which takes protected cells, if some of these will still be available. Not much need for a shorter model which demands that I get unprotected cells when I already have a bunch of protected to use.


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## run4jc (Mar 25, 2016)

Well, no one tried to talk me out of it so I went ahead and ordered a neutral version of one of these. Backordered of course. It's okay - not as if I don't have anything to use in the meantime....


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## Tachead (Mar 25, 2016)

Oztorchfreak said:


> I have most of the Zebralight range now and this newest entry is brilliant.
> 
> *The beam is a nice Cool White *with no noticeable artefacts.
> 
> ...



Are you talking about the SC600 MKIII or SC600 MKIII HI? I was under the impression the HI is a warmer neutral tint?


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## Lou Minescence (Mar 25, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Well, no one tried to talk me out of it so I went ahead and ordered a neutral version of one of these. Backordered of course. It's okay - not as if I don't have anything to use in the meantime....



No reason to talk you out of it. It's a nice light.

As far as a neutral version of this light, thats all there is in the " HI " version.

I noticed my light has a 'soft' off. When I turn the light off it glows out to off. Kind of the opposite of my SWM V11R with a soft start.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 25, 2016)

Been EDC'ing my SC600w III HI all week now.

Here's what I think of it so far:
*Fit and finish*Flawless. Zero defects and anodizing is perfect. Like my SC63w, I have found no defects with this light.*Output *Very impressive. Higher than any of my other stock 1x18650 lights except my BLF A6 and my modded triples, and those lights can only run at max power for very short periods of time.
*Thermal management*Excellent. At max power the light stays cool for an impressively long time. When it finally does heat up the entire light heats up evenly. Due to the additional mass it maintains high much longer than my SC63w. With the PID I feel safe leaving the SC600 III HI tailstanding at max power. Not so my other high-powered lights.*Tint*Absolutely perfect. No hint of green. Similar to the tint on my SC62w and better than the tint on my SC63w*Throw*At first I found the beam pattern composed of wide bright spill and a small bright hotspot a little awkward because I was so used to floody lights. Now I've come to appreciate the extra throw. Beam pattern looks more like what you'd expect of an old XPG light.*"Hand feel"*Excellent. I use this term to describe how the light feels in the hand. How good does it feel to hold. My lights are pocket toys and I like them to feel good in the hand. Overall hand feel of the SC600 III HI is excellent. Much better than my slippery SC63w. The only thing that feels slightly uncomfortable is the lanyard hole on the bottom of the light. I removed the lanyard ring, but the mount with the hole protrudes. I've gotten used to it though as this also acts as an anti-roll device.*Size*Refreshingly, I find the SC600w III HI small enough to comfortably pocket EDC even though this light is slightly wider and longer than all other 1x18650 lights I've recently EDC'd (Modded DQG Tiny III, DQG Tiny IV, Zebralight SC63w, Modded Aleto N8 zoomies) The short length of this SC600 III HI is what does the trick. I own an original model SC600 and found it just a little too big to EDC comfortably. Not so this new model.
*
My impression so far*: This one of the best built and most useful flashlights I've ever owned. I'm very impressed.:twothumbs
*
Other notes*: The tailcap on the SC600 III HI is interchangeable with the tailcaps from all previous model SC600s and both the SC62 and SC63


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## markr6 (Mar 25, 2016)

^ I couldn't agree more! I like how the entire body warms up. You would think the head would get really hot, then transfer the heat towards the end. But it seems to do it gradually through the entire body without ever getting hot. I also don't use the split ring. I would grind the pointy part off, but that would ruin the nice look for me.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 25, 2016)

I did not believe another light would come along anytime soon that would kick the MH20 out of my front right pocket but the MkIII HI has done it! I know the MH20GT is about to drop but sorry I already have several lights that meet or beat the throw of the new GT that and the XP-L profile would have to small a hot spot for me so the ZL looks like it will be my main EDC for a good while. Am still amazed at the sheer output this thing is capable of. The awesome unprotected Sanyo 3500ma 10amp cell ZL sells for it on their site was only 8 bucks!


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 25, 2016)

markr6 said:


> ^ I couldn't agree more! I like how the entire body warms up. You would think the head would get really hot, then transfer the heat towards the end. But it seems to do it gradually through the entire body without ever getting hot. I also don't use the split ring. I would grind the pointy part off, but that would ruin the nice look for me.



Yes, Zebralights are known for their thermal management. For most Zebralights, including these new models, the entire body, head, and LED shelf are composed of a single piece of aluminum. Heat transfers much more uniformly through a light with this arrangement compared to the more conventional setup of separate body and head.


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## gottawearshades (Mar 25, 2016)

Has anyone done measurements of the [email protected] meter/candela of this light?

I might have missed it. So many threads!


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## snowlover91 (Mar 25, 2016)

gottawearshades said:


> Has anyone done measurements of the [email protected] meter/candela of this light?
> 
> I might have missed it. So many threads!



Not sure which thread it was in either but someone posted 17k cd and another person measured 19k cd which is pretty good. Thanks for the review Fireclaw your thoughts are similar to mine on this light, everything about it works well and the heat management is excellent. I can run it at turbo without any indication of a step down after a few mins.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 25, 2016)

gottawearshades said:


> Has anyone done measurements of the [email protected] meter/candela of this light?
> 
> I might have missed it. So many threads!



Others on this forum have tested theirs at 16-19k lux.

I just measured my SC600w III HI and got a much higher result than I was expecting: *26,000 lux* (at turn-on, but even after 10 seconds it still measured 25,800 lux).

I measured using a freshly charged Samsung 30Q INR cell, but got the same result with freshly charged Panasonic NCR18650b.

For comparison, the same meter and setup measured my Zebralight SC63w at approximately 9400 lux, my Mark I Zebralight SC600 at just over 10,000 lux, and my SC62w at over 7,000 lux.


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## emarkd (Mar 25, 2016)

Fireclaw18 said:


> Others on this forum have tested theirs at 16-19k lux.
> 
> I just measured my SC600w III HI and got a much higher result than I was expecting: *26,000 lux* (at turn-on, but even after 10 seconds it still measured 25,800 lux).
> 
> ...



Wow, that's quite a result. This is what happens with non-NIST certified meters though. I've got most of the lights you listed and every one of mine test lower than that. Who's meter is closer to correct? I don't know.

For comparison, here's what I got:

* SC600w mk3 HI - 19,010 cd
* SC600w mk2 - 8,998 cd
* SC62w - 5,100 cd
* SC63w - 7,500 cd

Someone further up in one of these threads asked for a directly comparison with an MH20. I have one but I've never put it on my meter. I can do that later this evening for anyone who wants to compare. The actual numbers may not mean much, but the comparison to my mk3 HI could be telling.


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## snowlover91 (Mar 25, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Wow, that's quite a result. This is what happens with non-NIST certified meters though. I've got most of the lights you listed and every one of mine test lower than that. Who's meter is closer to correct? I don't know.
> 
> For comparison, here's what I got:
> 
> ...



Would love to see the comparison between the MK3 HI and the MH20! I know Selfbuilt measured 14,600cd from his MH20 and 13,300cd from the regular MK3 CW version so it will be interesting to see if your numbers are in the 13-15k cd range for the MH20. I never thought I would see a ZL with nearly 20,000cd lol.


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## ven (Mar 25, 2016)

Awesome feedback fireclaw:thumbsup:,thanks for taking the time and sharing , and to everyone else. Its pretty obvious now its a must buy!!!! Once things calm down with orders and in a couple of months, will have to join the ZL club. The mkIII appeals more due to the extra bit of mass and prefer the look over the sc63 as well. 

Will have to be the xhp35 HI neutral version for me


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## snowlover91 (Mar 25, 2016)

ven said:


> Awesome feedback fireclaw:thumbsup:,thanks for taking the time and sharing , and to everyone else. Its pretty obvious now its a must buy!!!! Once things calm down with orders and in a couple of months, will have to join the ZL club. The mkIII appeals more due to the extra bit of mass and prefer the look over the sc63 as well.
> 
> Will have to be the xhp35 HI neutral version for me



You will enjoy the MK3 HI! I have to say it's now my favorite ZL and I own the 62w, 63w and SC5w and f/d lights. The tint is great, throw is very good without being too tight of a hotspot. A great balance between flood and throw with excellent heat management.


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## jonnyfgroove (Mar 25, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Well, *no one tried to talk me out of it* so I went ahead and ordered a neutral version of one of these. Backordered of course. It's okay - not as if I don't have anything to use in the meantime....



That's like expecting a bunch of drunks in a bar to talk you out of having one more beer before you leave. 

I am also in the backorder club. Does anyone want to speculate on how long the wait will be? This is my first ZL.


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## ven (Mar 25, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> You will enjoy the MK3 HI! I have to say it's now my favorite ZL and I own the 62w, 63w and SC5w and f/d lights. The tint is great, throw is very good without being too tight of a hotspot. A great balance between flood and throw with excellent heat management.




Sounds perfect


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## snowlover91 (Mar 25, 2016)

jonnyfgroove said:


> That's like expecting a bunch of drunks in a bar to talk you out of having one more beer before you leave.
> 
> I am also in the backorder club. Does anyone want to speculate on how long the wait will be? This is my first ZL.



I would guess 3-5 weeks but possibly sooner if they get another shipment in. When I ordered something that was on back order it took me about 2 weeks to receive it so not too bad.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 25, 2016)

I pre orderd mine and asked about backorders they told me they try to restock back orders in two weeks


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## eh4 (Mar 25, 2016)

Tachead said:


> I like the programmability and more modes of ZL and the UI is great for the most part but, I really like the UI of the MH20 too. The 3 stage switch is definitely a step up on the ZL's imo. ZL's UI has some major flaws imo too like getting flashed by high when you do the double click to go to medium from off and also occasionally blinded yourself by high when you get the timing off to go to low. I dont understand why ZL doesnt just swap the two and it would solve both problems. It should be hold for 0.6 to go to high and single click to go to low. Then when you double clicked from off you would get only a flash of low to go to medium and if you got the timing off for high you would only get flashed by low. Seems like a no brainer:shrug:



That's a very good point. 
Connor's reply describes the probable reason that isn't so, a ZL nod to emergency use of their lights. 
I'd also like a single click to low and "Low Failsafe" rather than "High Failsafe", but I've adapted to the UI and enjoy knowing that a pretty offensively dazzling light is only a click away.


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## eh4 (Mar 25, 2016)

scout24 said:


> At the risk of straying further off topic *cough cough* I find if I need high mode, I want it right now. If I need moonlight, there's generally less urgency, and cupping the light against my palm, thigh, etc. makes sure I get the timing right. Connor, above, has the solution. Have both options available in the software. Heck, SF managed it on the Sidekick!!!



Right, right.


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## eh4 (Mar 25, 2016)

Swedpat said:


> Because of my liking of the 1AA Zebralights I have(probably the finest 1AA lights available, and I am waiting for the delivery of another two) An 18650 version may be what's missing in my collection. But I think I will go for the predecessor which takes protected cells, if some of these will still be available. Not much need for a shorter model which demands that I get unprotected cells when I already have a bunch of protected to use.



A light that requires unprotected cells is a step backwards imo, "recommends" unprotected for best performance would be perfectly sensible; required, No.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 25, 2016)

I always go for protected cells as well but fully trust in ZL's built in protections enough that the MkIII gets a pass. Understanding the reality that a fully charged high capacity 18650 can explode like a flash bang grenade or have a smoldering gushing toxic meltdown Ive always stuck with protected cells but ZL has proven to me their design teams are just that good and the lights just that well made I happily bought the MkIII HI and unprotected Sanyo cell for it. First time Ive used an unprotected cell.


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## nfetterly (Mar 26, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Well, no one tried to talk me out of it so I went ahead and ordered a neutral version of one of these. Backordered of course. It's okay - not as if I don't have anything to use in the meantime....



I ordered one from Illumn last night, they had 5 in stock. It's on it's way...


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 26, 2016)

nfetterly said:


> I ordered one from Illumn last night, they had 5 in stock. It's on it's way...



Just thought I'd point out that the ones on the Illumn website are the SC600w III equipped with traditional domed neutral XHP35 emitters. They are not the slightly newer version discussed in this thread that uses the "domeless" HI emitter. I'd expect the domed version should have maybe 10% more lumens, but half the throw.


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## run4jc (Mar 26, 2016)

nfetterly said:


> I ordered one from Illumn last night, they had 5 in stock. It's on it's way...





Fireclaw18 said:


> Just thought I'd point out that the ones on the Illumn website are the SC600w III equipped with traditional domed neutral XHP35 emitters. They are not the slightly newer version discussed in this thread that uses the "domeless" HI emitter. I'd expect the domed version should have maybe 10% more lumens, but half the throw.



Neale, I was happy to see that Illumn had them in stock then noticed that it was the MKIII L2 rather than the HI. No doubt that MKIII L2 is awesome and I ALMOST went ahead and ordered it, but decided to see what all the fuss is about with the HI. Please share your thoughts on yours when it arrives! Hope all is well -


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## kj2 (Mar 26, 2016)

Reading those numbers, makes me want to order one as well


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 26, 2016)

yes by all means let us know how that non HI MkIII is. Its got to put out a completely different profile. Is the non HI CW?


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## Tachead (Mar 26, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> yes by all means let us know how that non HI MkIII is. Its got to put out a completely different profile. Is the non HI CW?



Both NW and CW versions are available.


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## ntalbot (Mar 26, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Neale, I was happy to see that Illumn had them in stock then noticed that it was the MKIII L2 rather than the HI. No doubt that MKIII L2 is awesome and I ALMOST went ahead and ordered it, but decided to see what all the fuss is about with the HI. Please share your thoughts on yours when it arrives! Hope all is well -



Illumn only has the neutral (non-HI) in stock now; no more CW.

BTW did anyone notice that the driver in all the mkIII's can now support up to 6V? I got all excited when I saw that because sometimes I like the option of putting 2 x CR123's in my 18650 lights.
BUT then I found out 2 x CR123 are too long to fit in any of the new mkIII's. Seems really weird to me. Why make it 6V capable, but then make the battery compartment so short you can't fit 2 x CR123's in it? What were they thinking?


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## theburtse (Mar 26, 2016)

I really tried to understand the differences btwn the SC600w MK III and the SC600w MK III HI.
At ZL homepage I only find that the HI has a question mark regarding degree of hot spot (vs 10°).
Could anyone clear this out for me?


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## emarkd (Mar 26, 2016)

theburtse said:


> I really tried to understand the differences btwn the SC600w MK III and the SC600w MK III HI.
> At ZL homepage I only find that the HI has a question mark regarding degree of hot spot (vs 10°).
> Could anyone clear this out for me?



Its a different emitter. The normal '600 mk3 has an XHP35 emitter, which has a big tall silicone dome on top of it. The '600 mk3 HI has an XHP35 HI emitter, which is basically the same thing except its got a flat wafer of silicone on top instead of the dome. That changes the emission characteristics of the emitter because that coating basically acts like a small lens, either spreading or focusing the light as it leaves the emitter.


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## run4jc (Mar 26, 2016)

theburtse said:


> I really tried to understand the differences btwn the SC600w MK III and the SC600w MK III HI.
> At ZL homepage I only find that the HI has a question mark regarding degree of hot spot (vs 10°).
> Could anyone clear this out for me?



http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Discrete-Directional/XLamp-XHP35-HI


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## theburtse (Mar 26, 2016)

Ah! OK, thanks! 
So the HI version's beam should be slightly more focused than the non-HI (or High Density) version then?!?

Now slightly more enlightened and tech-spec-pdf reading CPF member :twothumbs


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 26, 2016)

its about as fun as drilling a hole in your head but at some point go to Cree's site and actually read the data sheets on whichever emitters you want to know more about. I recently spent hours studying the data sheets it was maddening Cree could really do a better job at laying out some of their info. Anyways the XHP35 HI just throws twice as far as the HD version and has a different beam profile mainly due to not having the dome over it. Both emitters "focus" just fine the difference between the HD and HI is candela mainly. Of course what light either emitter is in affects the beam greatly as well so theres always that X factor. The XHP really seems to be the future of cutting edge high output LED lights and lighting likely for the next decade. Cree will slowly make improvements to the line over time just like they did with the XM-L. Still anxious to see what the beam out the HD version of the MkIII looks like I am assuming it will look like a higher output MkII with the CW putting out a whiter tint and the NW being near halogen like.


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## Fireclaw18 (Mar 26, 2016)

theburtse said:


> Ah! OK, thanks!
> So the HI version's beam should be slightly more focused than the non-HI (or High Density) version then?!?
> 
> Now slightly more enlightened and tech-spec-pdf reading CPF member :twothumbs



Close.

The HI emitter gives an effect similar to using a "dedomed" emitter. Compared to a traditional raised dome, HI gives the following:

*1. Approximately 10-15% lower light output. * (measured in lumens) One reason most LEDs have raised domes is it helps reduce total internal reflection inside the crystal and allows more overall lumens to escape.
*2. Large increase to throw. *(measured in lux) Even though overall light output is slightly smaller, the light that does come out is MUCH more concentrated. Intensity is higher. In terms of beam pattern expect a smaller, but much brighter hotspot that will illuminate things 50% farther than the non-HI emitter.


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## KeepingItLight (Mar 26, 2016)

ntalbot said:


> Why make it 6V capable, but then make the battery compartment so short you can't fit 2 x CR123's in it? What were they thinking?



I do not know the fact. I have surmised, however, that it is an accident of design. 

ZebraLight had made a decision to design a new driver from scratch. It wanted a high-quality boost driver that could be used with the 6-volt and 12-volt emitters in the Cree XHP family. Maintaining efficiency, while boosting from a nominal 3.7 volts up to around 12, is quite a trick. My guess is the resulting driver simply happened to allow a 6-volt input voltage. 

It was never a design goal to provide compatibility with 2xCR123A. 

CR123A batteries are typically rated for maximum continuous current discharges of 1.5 amps. Using 2xCR123A to produce more than about 700 lumens usually drives those batteries beyond what their manufacturers have rated them for. Current draws on the new ZebraLight models have been measured at values above 5 amps.


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## ntalbot (Mar 26, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> I do not know the fact. I have surmised, however, that it is an accident of design.
> 
> ZebraLight had made a decision to design a new driver from scratch. It wanted a high-quality boost driver that could be used with the 6-volt and 12-volt emitters in the Cree XHP family. Maintaining efficiency, while boosting from a nominal 3.7 volts up to around 12, is quite a trick. My guess is the resulting driver simply happened to allow a 6-volt input voltage.
> 
> ...



I didn't know CR123's were that limited. Good to know. Thx.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 26, 2016)

I did the Prometheus clip mod to mine and now it's even better!!


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 26, 2016)

what is the Prometheus clip mod?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 26, 2016)

It's in one of the other ZL SC600 MkIII threads. Basically the Prometheus clip for the Surefire lights fits the SC600 MkIII perfectly. The catch is the tailcap doesn't screw down all the way so you have to take the tailcap to a piece of 120 grit sandpaper and file it down until it holds the clip tightly and also makes contact with the battery tube.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 27, 2016)

Took some digging but I found the thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?390887-SC-600-Clip-Mod

It's actually an older posting but I just did it to the MkIII. I'll post up a pic this weekend.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 27, 2016)

wow! thanks for that. The clip that came with the light suits me just fine but this is interesting


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## ntalbot (Mar 27, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Took some digging but I found the thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?390887-SC-600-Clip-Mod
> 
> It's actually an older posting but I just did it to the MkIII. I'll post up a pic this weekend.



Thanks for that; nice mod!


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## snowlover91 (Mar 27, 2016)

Just had an opportunity to test out the MK3 HI in a large field with some houses at the back of it. From my back deck to the field is a good 50 yards which was obviously no problem for the light. Then the first house is about 100 yards from my deck and a second one is much further back around 150-175 yards. The MK3 HI lit up the whole side of the house at 100 yards and the house at 150-175 yards was no problem either. My SC63w doing the same test lights up the first house slightly but not much. The fact that the MK3 HI easily lights up the house at 150+ yards is a testament to the much increased throw it provides. Hope this helps those who might be considering it, sorry I don't have any beam shots but the neighbors wouldn't appreciate me lighting up the whole side of their house long enough for pics lol


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## scout24 (Mar 27, 2016)

Between a real working pocketclip, (Hadn't seen that mod...) and Snowlover's post, you guys are killing me... 

EDIT- I think I own one of those clips, but have to dig. Does Dark Sucks still make them?


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## sidecross (Mar 27, 2016)

scout24 said:


> Between a real working pocketclip, (Hadn't seen that mod...) and Snowlover's post, you guys are killing me...
> 
> EDIT- I think I own one of those clips, but have to dig. Does Dark Sucks still make them?


I keep my SC600 Mk lll in a side leg pocket and the ZebraLight stock clip does not secure the light to my satisfaction.

As I have posted before a Nitecore MH20 clip fits the ZebraLight and secures the light much better than the stock one; one disadvantage is the Nitecore clip while on the light will prevent tail standing.

I can sacrifice tail standing for not losing a flashlight.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 27, 2016)

hey I tried the MH20 clip on my MkII as well! Like you said the light wont tailstand with the NC clip and in my case I dont believe the NC clip clipped onto the ZL as well as the very nice titanium heat treated stock ZL clip.

As for real world use Idk about 100 or more yards I have not tried that much range yet but it would not surprise me. Ranges I am working with with this light is 75 yards max which it pulls off extremely well.


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## snowlover91 (Mar 28, 2016)

Celtic, it wouldn't surprise me if it can be usable out to 200 yards or a little more. My limit vision wise is about 175-200 yards which is all I need from a light, anything after that I can't see that well without my glasses. The fact that this light is capable of illuminating the side of a house quite easily at 150+ yards is all I need. My 63w and 62w fade out after about 75-100 yards due to the floody beam in comparison.


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## Streak (Mar 28, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> Just had an opportunity to test out the MK3 HI in a large field with some houses at the back of it. From my back deck to the field is a good 50 yards which was obviously no problem for the light. Then the first house is about 100 yards from my deck and a second one is much further back around 150-175 yards. The MK3 HI lit up the whole side of the house at 100 yards and the house at 150-175 yards was no problem either. My SC63w doing the same test lights up the first house slightly but not much. The fact that the MK3 HI easily lights up the house at 150+ yards is a testament to the much increased throw it provides. Hope this helps those who might be considering it, sorry I don't have any beam shots but the neighbors wouldn't appreciate me lighting up the whole side of their house long enough for pics lol



Really interested in your observations comparing these 2 lights.
I EDC the original SC52W and like everything about including the sturdy fixed pocket clip and the decent flood for around the house and more than respectable outside as well.
It's time to upgrade and have been looking closely at the SC63. With it's fixed clip and flood design would be a great upgrade in runtime and output over the SC52.
The MKIII HI though is also very tempting I am just worried that it would not have enough flood and would need modification to fit a fixed pocket clip plus be a little large for EDC.

I would appreciate your further comment.

No, I'm not going to buy both!!!


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## snowlover91 (Mar 28, 2016)

Streak said:


> Really interested in your observations comparing these 2 lights.
> I EDC the original SC52W and like everything about including the sturdy fixed pocket clip and the decent flood for around the house and more than respectable outside as well.
> It's time to upgrade and have been looking closely at the SC63. With it's fixed clip and flood design would be a great upgrade in runtime and output over the SC52.
> The MKIII HI though is also very tempting I am just worried that it would not have enough flood and would need modification to fit a fixed pocket clip plus be a little large for EDC.
> ...



The spill on the MK3 HI is actually quite usable inside about 60 yards. The hotspot isn't too tight it gives a good compromise of spill and throw. It depends on your anticipated distance but the MK3 HI can do anything the 63w will do with the benefit of giving you usable light past 100+ yards whereas the 63w beam fades pretty quickly after 100 yards. If you anticipate scenarios where you need light past 100 yards and/or long turbo runtimes I would definitely go with the Mk3 HI. It you want just a small pocket light with brief bursts of turbo and inside 100 yards I would say the 63w will be better.


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## sidecross (Mar 28, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> hey I tried the MH20 clip on my MkII as well! Like you said the light wont tailstand with the NC clip and in my case I dont believe the NC clip clipped onto the ZL as well as the very nice titanium heat treated stock ZL clip.
> 
> As for real world use Idk about 100 or more yards I have not tried that much range yet but it would not surprise me. Ranges I am working with with this light is 75 yards max which it pulls off extremely well.


The Nitecore clip has a rounded prong on the inside of the of external clip about 13mm from the top and keeps the light from sliding out without a good tug. This has been a good solution for my needs. :thumbsup:


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 28, 2016)

the MkIII HI is the smallest light I have ever bought. To me its freaking tiny damn near just a paperweight. So that being said makes me even more impressed that the ZL design teams down in Texas managed to pull off such high output out of such a small light. All the necessary protections are already built into the light on top of the first rate electronics PID etc. I actually liken the beam out of my MkIII HI to be like a higher output XML2 profile with a near halogen like tint. XP-L HI lights in my collection all have profiles with small, very bright and very defined hot spots and the spill portion although bright is so far not as bright as a good XML2 U2. So MkIII HI has an XML2 U2 size hot spot that is a touch diffuse around the edge which is fine, fading into a very nice corona that turns into XML2 U2 like bright spill I freaking love it. XHP seems to be the future of high output LED lights. The clip it came with suits me fine. Not about to risk damaging my new $100 light by attempting to sand some length off for the Prometheus mod. Really wish ZL would include a nice holster at least for the Mk series of lights.


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## sidecross (Mar 28, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> Really wish ZL would include a nice holster at least for the Mk series of lights.


The Maxpedition Gear 4" flashlight sheath works very well and has many options for attachment. For a smaller profile the Nitecore MH20 sheath will fit the SC600 too.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 28, 2016)

Ive got the MH20 and the MkIII HI is just totally loose in it. Maxpedition makes some very nice stuff Ive got two of their 5 inch light holsters. Still for the little MkIII HI the Maxpedition would be overkill. I use an old Coast holster for my MkII the light fits perfectly but the MkIII vanishes into it and is hard to fish out. Just saying for the price ZL's come in at a proper size well made belt sheath for say any of their non headlamps that use an 18650. I like my MkIII HI so much I may actually have a belt holster custom made.


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## ntalbot (Mar 28, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> Ive got the MH20 and the MkIII HI is just totally loose in it. Maxpedition makes some very nice stuff Ive got two of their 5 inch light holsters. Still for the little MkIII HI the Maxpedition would be overkill. I use an old Coast holster for my MkII the light fits perfectly but the MkIII vanishes into it and is hard to fish out. Just saying for the price ZL's come in at a proper size well made belt sheath for say any of their non headlamps that use an 18650. I like my MkIII HI so much I may actually have a belt holster custom made.



Maybe a holster made for an largish AA or CR123 light would be a better fit?


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## markr6 (Mar 28, 2016)

Here's my SC600 II crammed into one of the Jetbeam holsters...something like $2 on Fasttech. The MK III may fair better being slightly smaller. But it would still be a tight fit because of that elastic; not something you can "drop" the light into by any means.


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## sidecross (Mar 28, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> Ive got the MH20 and the MkIII HI is just totally loose in it. Maxpedition makes some very nice stuff Ive got two of their 5 inch light holsters. Still for the little MkIII HI the Maxpedition would be overkill. I use an old Coast holster for my MkII the light fits perfectly but the MkIII vanishes into it and is hard to fish out. Just saying for the price ZL's come in at a proper size well made belt sheath for say any of their non headlamps that use an 18650. I like my MkIII HI so much I may actually have a belt holster custom made.


I use the 4 inch version of the Maxpedition Sheath and it fits well with 90% or more of the head exposed before the flap is pulled down; the 5 inch version would be way to large.

A custom sheath would be the best solution.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 28, 2016)

luckily I also collect knives and am already familiar with a couple of outstanding custom sheath makers. Just trying to decide on specifics about the holster. No kydex its to hard and would quickly mar the finish. Wont be a pressured form fit either even made in leather that would also mar the finish. Hmmm....


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## Tachead (Mar 28, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> luckily I also collect knives and am already familiar with a couple of outstanding custom sheath makers. Just trying to decide on specifics about the holster. No kydex its to hard and would quickly mar the finish. Wont be a pressured form fit either even made in leather that would also mar the finish. Hmmm....



Maybe not, ZL's anodizing is pretty durable(especially against abrasion). Plus, its a mid-grade flashlight not a Faberge egg. A custom sheath would be pretty cool.


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## noboneshotdog (Mar 28, 2016)

Nite Ize FAMT-03-01 Tool Holster Stretch Clip on Tool Holster with Stretch Capability https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CVQZ44/?tag=cpf0b6-20

This is the absolute best holster for the sc600 MK2 that I have. I have used it for over 3 years and it has not failed once. Absolute perfect fit for this light. If you are looking for a custom holster. Look no further. This is it! I am a plumber and my light goes in and out of this holster multiple upon multiple times a day. Still holding up like the day I got it.


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## noboneshotdog (Mar 28, 2016)

[/URL][/IMG]

Here is what the above mentioned holster looks like with said light. It has held up wonderfully, including the snap. Easy in and out. PERFECT!


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 28, 2016)

noboneshotdog that looks pretty good for a temporary solution! Thats the MkII in there? I have an old Coast holster for one of their small cheap lights that fits my MkII stone cold perfectly but the MkIII sinks in a but to far got to really dig for it to get it out. Will most likely go the leather route likely lined with treated wool on the inside. I know the ZL ano is tough. The ano on many of my knives is just as tough as well but still mar with improper sheaths. Will likely order over the next couple days as I know it will take at least a month to be made and I will likely have to send them the light.


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## noboneshotdog (Mar 28, 2016)

Celticross, I would love to see what you come up with. Please do share when you work out the details.


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## bodhran (Mar 28, 2016)

I also use the Nite Ize holster for my SC600 II and now my MK III. It really is a nice, durable holster and no digging to get my MK III out.


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## Streak (Mar 28, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> The spill on the MK3 HI is actually quite usable inside about 60 yards. The hotspot isn't too tight it gives a good compromise of spill and throw. It depends on your anticipated distance but the MK3 HI can do anything the 63w will do with the benefit of giving you usable light past 100+ yards whereas the 63w beam fades pretty quickly after 100 yards. If you anticipate scenarios where you need light past 100 yards and/or long turbo runtimes I would definitely go with the Mk3 HI. It you want just a small pocket light with brief bursts of turbo and inside 100 yards I would say the 63w will be better.



Thanks.


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## run4jc (Mar 28, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> The spill on the MK3 HI is actually quite usable inside about 60 yards. The hotspot isn't too tight it gives a good compromise of spill and throw. It depends on your anticipated distance but the MK3 HI can do anything the 63w will do with the benefit of giving you usable light past 100+ yards whereas the 63w beam fades pretty quickly after 100 yards. If you anticipate scenarios where you need light past 100 yards and/or long turbo runtimes I would definitely go with the Mk3 HI. It you want just a small pocket light with brief bursts of turbo and inside 100 yards I would say the 63w will be better.



Ah, well - the standard CPF response - "buy them both!" I have a 63w and am eagerly anticipating the arrival of the MKIII HI that currently shows "backordered." I really enjoy the 63w - it seems to have enough of extra punch over my 62w to justify having it. If the MKIII HI has a little bit more and better heat management, it should be the bomb.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 28, 2016)

for such a high output light the heat management is incredible. Yes it will still get very very warm but it takes much longer to get to that point than the MkII does. The MkIII HI looks to be a touch larger than the 63 so a touch more metal for a touch better heat sinking. Still beyond thrilled with my MkIII HI it makes my MkII seem dim.


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## newbie66 (Mar 29, 2016)

Amazing light the HI.


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## KeepingItLight (Mar 29, 2016)

This one that markr6 found for the SC62 ought to work:



markr6 said:


> If anyone is interested in a holster for the SC62__, I purchased five of these Jetbeam holsters for $2.46 each on fasttech. Nice snug fit. I believe it was the 12cm model. A little large for the SC52, but it works. No use for the other 3, but we can fix that



This is the same holster Mark showed holding his SC600w Mk. II L2 above.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Mar 29, 2016)

I have to agree with CC74 on the heat management. I've run it on H1 with no extra cooling just letting it sit there for about 10 minutes. Yes it did start to step down after a couple of minutes but it maintained a comfortable temperature that was never to hot to hold in the hand. I know some see the stepdown as a little bit of a cheat and maybe a technology that could fail - but for a light this size it's mandatory in order to maintain high output and constant function.


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## scout24 (Mar 29, 2016)

Agreed. The alternative to a graceful 300-some levell stepdown is the dreaded timed drop from "turbo" to a medium mode... I'll take the PID.


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## markr6 (Mar 29, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> This one that markr6 found for the SC62 ought to work:



I forgot I took those pics! Good find  You can see how much cleaner the 62/63 fits, but the 600 isn't horrible. I believe it was the 12cm X 3.3cm at Fasttech. I bought 5 of them, mainly just for keeping them from getting all beat up in a bag with other gear, but I never use them.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 29, 2016)

KeepingItLight that Jetbeam sheath looks perfect! I wonder if GG has them Idk anywhere else that sells accessories like GG does hope they have it. I dont trust Fasttech any further than I can throw them.


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## ven (Mar 29, 2016)

Jetbeams are of good quality for the money! Have a good few in several sizes.................blast! i need a ZL to fit in one


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## markr6 (Mar 29, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> KeepingItLight that Jetbeam sheath looks perfect! I wonder if GG has them Idk anywhere else that sells accessories like GG does hope they have it. I dont trust Fasttech any further than I can throw them.



Battery Junction has them for $2.00! I think it's the same size.


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## newbie66 (Mar 29, 2016)

ven said:


> Jetbeams are of good quality for the money! Have a good few in several sizes.................blast! i need a ZL to fit in one



Patience, ven.


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 29, 2016)

Jetbeam sheath ordered thanks guys. I have 4 Jetbeams they are very good lights all 4 are overbuilt the aluminum feels like it must be 1/8th of an inch thick.


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## KeepingItLight (Mar 30, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Battery Junction has them for $2.00! I think it's the same size.




Awesome find! I'll be checking this tonight.


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## newbie66 (Mar 30, 2016)

You guys and your sheaths....


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## CelticCross74 (Mar 30, 2016)

hey despite the MkIIIs tiny size many of us still need to carry a LOT of stuff in our pockets. That and the MkIII is a very sheath worthy light. With my MkII clipped into my pocket sometimes being pressed up against the back and forth motion of me walking would slowly loosen the tail cap. Several times I would pull out the MkII to use and it wouldnt come on couldnt figure out why until I got to the tail cap which had been unscrewed to being about half off just off the movement of my leg. So a nice sheath why not? Am still dialing in the details for a custom leather sheath for it.


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## Equitymind (Mar 30, 2016)

I see 2 holsters for $2.00 at Battery Junction, a small holster (fits BC 10) and a mini holster (fits BC20). Which is the one that will fit the ZL SC600 Mk III so perfectly?

Zebralight Holster


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## markr6 (Mar 30, 2016)

Equitymind said:


> I see 2 holsters for $2.00 at Battery Junction, a small holster (fits BC 10) and a mini holster (fits BC20). Which is the one that will fit the ZL SC600 Mk III so perfectly?
> 
> Zebralight Holster



Mini is what I showed in my photos above.


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## ozzy702 (Mar 30, 2016)

Well, I drank the coolaid and ordered one. This is my first "expensive" flashlight purchase so hopefully it lives up to the hype! I spoke to someone at Zebralight and they were VERY helpful, knowledgable and answered all of my questions perfectly. I'm very impressed with this company. On a side note they are moving the manufacturing of all US sold product to Texas in the near future so the lights will literally be made in the USA if you order domestically. The China factory will service the rest of the world's units.


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## nfetterly (Mar 30, 2016)

Holster - I just ordered a ripoffs co-193 (co = clip on) holster from amazon. [FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]The CO-193 fits items measuring 3-1/2” to 4” x 1" to 1-1/4”. [/FONT]Just under $15, but I'm very happy with my ripoffs I use for my Oveready Moddoolar setup. Unfortunately i didn't see the model number anywhere on the one I currently have so I may end up with a duplicate (which I am fine with). Arrives this weekend & I'll take it out with me next week to mills in Quebec.


Since this is about the SC600 MKIII, I do have a modded (warm) original, I had 3 of them at one point. I saved the third one for a nice loaner. The MKIII is very very nice. Highly recommended.


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## ntalbot (Mar 30, 2016)

nfetterly said:


> Holster - I just ordered a ripoffs co-193 (co = clip on) holster from amazon. [FONT=Helvetica, Geneva, Arial, SunSans-Regular, sans-serif]The CO-193 fits items measuring 3-1/2” to 4” x 1" to 1-1/4”. [/FONT]Just under $15, but I'm very happy with my ripoffs I use for my Oveready Moddoolar setup. Unfortunately i didn't see the model number anywhere on the one I currently have so I may end up with a duplicate (which I am fine with). Arrives this weekend & I'll take it out with me next week to mills in Quebec.
> 
> 
> Since this is about the SC600 MKIII, I do have a modded (warm) original, I had 3 of them at one point. I saved the third one for a nice loaner. The MKIII is very very nice. Highly recommended.



Did you do the mod yourself, or did someone else do it?


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## Lucky Duck (Mar 30, 2016)

I had Vinhnguyen54 mod my original SC600 to a warm XM-L several years back. Don't remember exactly which one. Still looks great, used as a bike light.


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## snowlover91 (Mar 31, 2016)

ozzy702 said:


> Well, I drank the coolaid and ordered one. This is my first "expensive" flashlight purchase so hopefully it lives up to the hype! I spoke to someone at Zebralight and they were VERY helpful, knowledgable and answered all of my questions perfectly. I'm very impressed with this company. On a side note they are moving the manufacturing of all US sold product to Texas in the near future so the lights will literally be made in the USA if you order domestically. The China factory will service the rest of the world's units.




Hmmm interesting, thanks for sharing this! I've heard for awhile now they planned to begin making lights in the US and would love to see it. Any idea how far out they may be from that happening? Let us know how it works out for you!


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## newbie66 (Mar 31, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> hey despite the MkIIIs tiny size many of us still need to carry a LOT of stuff in our pockets. That and the MkIII is a very sheath worthy light. With my MkII clipped into my pocket sometimes being pressed up against the back and forth motion of me walking would slowly loosen the tail cap. Several times I would pull out the MkII to use and it wouldnt come on couldnt figure out why until I got to the tail cap which had been unscrewed to being about half off just off the movement of my leg. So a nice sheath why not? Am still dialing in the details for a custom leather sheath for it.



Alright alright, I get what you mean. Haha. You guys are funny!


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## nfetterly (Mar 31, 2016)

ntalbot said:


> Did you do the mod yourself, or did someone else do it?




Nope, just picked it up modded. It wasn't a "w" that had been modded to a warm LED.


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## ntalbot (Mar 31, 2016)

Can someone tell me the exact diameter of the tailcap? I need it for a lanyard attachment system I am working on.


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## jondextan (Mar 31, 2016)

Just got my tracking number for the MkIII HI (among others) order, and i trying to lower my expectations and hope i would love it.


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## Lou Minescence (Apr 1, 2016)

ntalbot said:


> Can someone tell me the exact diameter of the tailcap? I need it for a lanyard attachment system I am working on.


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## ntalbot (Apr 1, 2016)

Thanks Lou!


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## run4jc (Apr 7, 2016)

Shipping notice received and the light has gone through the North Texas sorting facility. Looks like this one is originating from the US rather than PRC. Excited to see what all the fuss is about...the SC62w and SC63w are my current favorites - we'll see if this SC600 MKIII HI will take their places.


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## eraursls1984 (Apr 7, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Shipping notice received and the light has gone through the North Texas sorting facility. Looks like this one is originating from the US rather than PRC. Excited to see what all the fuss is about...the SC62w and SC63w are my current favorites - we'll see if this SC600 MKIII HI will take their places.


I believe all US orders ship from Texas. They get a shipment from the factory to their headquarters and ship orders from there.


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## run4jc (Apr 7, 2016)

eraursls1984 said:


> I believe all US orders ship from Texas. They get a shipment from the factory to their headquarters and ship orders from there.



Yep. In the DISTANT past some came directly from China, but you are correct for current shipments.


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## markr6 (Apr 7, 2016)

One more to share. Tower is 110ft tall. I'm not sure if that means to the platform or the roof, but good enough.


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## run4jc (Apr 9, 2016)

Posted up some comparative beam shots OVER HERE. After receiving my SC600 MKIII HI yesterday it's easy for me to support CelticCross74's original statement in this thread - "Buy It!" What an incredible beam from something so small plus the Zebralight interface (which is one of my favorites.) The light I received doesn't seem to have any of the ano issues that others have reported. The clip is a joke, but with the exception of the SC62w and SC63w I rarely use clips. It would be nice to have the same type of clip, but it's not a big deal. I'll probably only use this light for dog walks anyway.

Man, does this thing have good throw. Tint is good, too, although the SC62w is still my favorite Zebralight tint (along with the SC52w and H32w). It's a winner!


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## newbie66 (Apr 9, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Posted up some comparative beam shots OVER HERE. After receiving my SC600 MKIII HI yesterday it's easy for me to support CelticCross74's original statement in this thread - "Buy It!" What an incredible beam from something so small plus the Zebralight interface (which is one of my favorites.) The light I received doesn't seem to have any of the ano issues that others have reported. The clip is a joke, but with the exception of the SC62w and SC63w I rarely use clips. It would be nice to have the same type of clip, but it's not a big deal. I'll probably only use this light for dog walks anyway.
> 
> Man, does this thing have good throw. Tint is good, too, although the SC62w is still my favorite Zebralight tint (along with the SC52w and H32w). It's a winner!



Glad you are not disappointed. It really is a winner.


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## BLUE LED (Apr 9, 2016)

I'd like to buy one, but not keen on buying batteries for it


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## oKtosiTe (Apr 9, 2016)

BLUE LED said:


> I'd like to buy one, but not keen on buying batteries for it



NKON, among others, sells them.


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## ntalbot (Apr 9, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Posted up some comparative beam shots OVER HERE. After receiving my SC600 MKIII HI yesterday it's easy for me to support CelticCross74's original statement in this thread - "Buy It!" What an incredible beam from something so small plus the Zebralight interface (which is one of my favorites.) The light I received doesn't seem to have any of the ano issues that others have reported. The clip is a joke, but with the exception of the SC62w and SC63w I rarely use clips. It would be nice to have the same type of clip, but it's not a big deal. I'll probably only use this light for dog walks anyway.
> 
> Man, does this thing have good throw. Tint is good, too, although the SC62w is still my favorite Zebralight tint (along with the SC52w and H32w). It's a winner!



I just got mine yesterday and I have to agree with everyone, it's a winner!
The tint on mine is excellent. Almost as good as my best-ever tint SC600w mkII, and in other respects the mkIII HI is a significant improvement, especially in throw.


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## ntalbot (Apr 9, 2016)

run4jc said:


> Posted up some comparative beam shots OVER HERE. After receiving my SC600 MKIII HI yesterday it's easy for me to support CelticCross74's original statement in this thread - "Buy It!" What an incredible beam from something so small plus the Zebralight interface (which is one of my favorites.) The light I received doesn't seem to have any of the ano issues that others have reported. The clip is a joke, but with the exception of the SC62w and SC63w I rarely use clips. It would be nice to have the same type of clip, but it's not a big deal. I'll probably only use this light for dog walks anyway.
> 
> Man, does this thing have good throw. Tint is good, too, although the SC62w is still my favorite Zebralight tint (along with the SC52w and H32w). It's a winner!



I just got mine yesterday and I have to agree with everyone, it's a winner!
The tint on mine is excellent. Almost as good as my best-ever tint SC600w mkII, and in other respects the mkIII HI is a significant improvement, especially in throw.


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 9, 2016)

glad to see this thread still going with great reports coming in from new users.


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## eh4 (Apr 10, 2016)

I wish they'd retool it to accept protected batteries, even just an extended tailcap would do the trick, right? 
I understand there are reasons why this light should be run with high drain, unprotected cells, and they probably need that extra length for the reflector, and lengthening the body might be prohibitively expensive for production, but the lack of compatibility with long, protected 18650 will keep me away.
All I want is an Extended Tailcap Option and I'll be onboard. 
Someone who's handy, order a few extra tail caps, make a Frankenstein monster cap and tell us how it works out.


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## BLUE LED (Apr 10, 2016)

I already have Efest IMR 18650 20A, but they won't fit because they are too long.


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## discopanda (Apr 10, 2016)

eh4 said:


> I wish they'd retool it to accept protected batteries, even just an extended tailcap would do the trick, right?
> I understand there are reasons why this light should be run with high drain, unprotected cells, and they probably need that extra length for the reflector, and lengthening the body might be prohibitively expensive for production, but the lack of compatibility with long, protected 18650 will keep me away.
> All I want is an Extended Tailcap Option and I'll be onboard.
> Someone who's handy, order a few extra tail caps, make a Frankenstein monster cap and tell us how it works out.



I too had/have a concern about unprotected cells and posted my concerns. General consensus was to trust ZL's internal protection. Combined with the use of a high quality battery and charger i was advised not to worry. Would welcome your thoughts.


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## eh4 (Apr 10, 2016)

I trust ZL protection circuits more than any on-battery circuit, I just can't see carrying a light around that needs special batteries just to operate... I already made the jump to 18650, not excited about having a light that can't share most of my batteries with other lights. 
Protected batteries are a good idea, period. 
A light that's designed to work best with unprotected cells is one thing, being incompatible with protected cells is another.


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## KeepingItLight (Apr 10, 2016)

Did you know that Tesla automobiles use unprotected 18650 batteries? Each one has well over a thousand of them. Did you know that your laptop computer also uses unprotected 18650 batteries? As you can see in teardowns, a typical laptop has six or nine of them. Both of these "devices" incorporate high-quality battery-protection circuits that are built into the device itself. 

The new ZebraLights are no different.

Except, that is, for the charger. Both laptop computers and the Tesla include high-quality charging circuits. With the ZebraLight, you have to buy those separately. 

I hope you own a high-quality charger. You need one of those no matter whether you use protected batteries or not.

So, if you have a high-quality charger, then the new ZebraLights are no more dangerous—battery-wise—than driving a Tesla or using a laptop computer.

My own practice is to use protected batteries in flashlights that do not have a low-voltage cutoff. That's a circuit that turns off a flashlight completely when its battery is exhausted. In flashlights that do have a cutoff, I am just as comfortable using unprotected batteries as I am with a laptop computer and the Tesla. 

The only difference is that I cannot afford a Tesla!

There is a dedicated thread where you can discuss ZebraLight's use of unprotected batteries. There is a lot of information there. That is probably the right place to talk about ZebraLight's decision to require an unprotected battery. 

Hopefully, this thread will not devolve into another repetitious discussion of the same topic.


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## Tachead (Apr 10, 2016)

eh4 said:


> *I trust ZL protection circuits more than any on-battery circuit*, I just can't see carrying a light around that needs special batteries just to operate... I already made the jump to 18650, not excited about having a light that can't share most of my batteries with other lights.
> Protected batteries are a good idea, period.
> A light that's designed to work best with unprotected cells is one thing, being incompatible with protected cells is another.



You probably shouldnt. 

ZL is a relatively young, small flashlight company with a colored past of various QA and QC issues. Most protection circuits are made by Seiko Instruments Inc. which is a multi-million dollar corporation that has been making high quality electronics for almost 80 years and makes products used in thousands of different products and industries.

I do trust them enough to use a bare cell in them though I guess but would still prefer the choice:shrug:


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## eh4 (Apr 10, 2016)

But KeepingItLight, 
I'm a slob who puts spare batteries (in plastic) in my pockets and sometimes changes them out in the dark... 
I'm not against unprotected batteries at all, I'm for versatility and the option of redundant safeties.

Tachead, good to know, thanks.


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 10, 2016)

still loving the MkIII HI. I totally agree with the above post. I have much more faith in ZL's built in protections than I do the PC's on a protected cell. Have yet to try the HI at distances over 50 meters yet. As long as the weather holds I will take it to my local large park tonight to see how well it does past that distance.


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## KeepingItLight (Apr 10, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> As long as the weather holds I will take it to my local large park tonight to see how well it does past that distance.



Pictures, or else it didn't happen!!


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## Tachead (Apr 10, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> still loving the MkIII HI. *I totally agree with the above post. I have much more faith in ZL's built in protections than I do the PC's on a protected cell.* Have yet to try the HI at distances over 50 meters yet. As long as the weather holds I will take it to my local large park tonight to see how well it does past that distance.



See post #175:thumbsup:


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## Tachead (Apr 10, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> Pictures, or else it didn't happen!!




+1 

I would like to see some more outdoor shots of the HI.


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 10, 2016)

ah yes I read post #175. ZL is not THAT new of a company. They specialize in small high output lights. Their lights are designed in Texas by a top notch design and engineering team. The MkIII HI is my second ZL the first being the MkII NW. Unless the MkIII's ZL they are selling as fast as they can build them suddenly start blowing emitters and unprotected cells which to my knowledge has not happened I still have full faith in ZL's cutting edge electronics. Have had zero issues with my HI and I use it daily.


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## OnlyownEnergizer250lumen (Apr 10, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Well if you need a reason to justify buying a new light, you may not be quite as far gone as some of the rest of us  So I'm not sure if my comments will help or not.
> 
> Personally, I think the SC600mk3 HI is better than the MH20 in every way (well, the MH20 has a better built-in charger...). So for me that's good enough. The Zebra is brighter, more intense, has a _much_ cleaner tint, better regulation, better UI, and its much smaller. Here's a comparison photo for you:
> 
> ...



why would you choose the manker over the MH20? I considered the manker before I bought my mh20 and saw no reason to choose it over Nitecore. Can you explain?


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## Tachead (Apr 10, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> ah yes I read post #175. ZL is not THAT new of a company. They specialize in small high output lights. Their lights are designed in Texas by a top notch design and engineering team. The MkIII HI is my second ZL the first being the MkII NW. Unless the MkIII's ZL they are selling as fast as they can build them suddenly start blowing emitters and unprotected cells which to my knowledge has not happened I still have full faith in ZL's cutting edge electronics. Have had zero issues with my HI and I use it daily.



I was just pointing out that trusting ZL more then Seiko would be silly imo. Many people seem to think protection circuits are made by some small budget Chinese company or something when they are actually made by one of the best and oldest Japanese electronic companies on the planet. Just thought I would clear that up. I wonder if ZL use any Seiko components in them? I wouldnt be surprised.


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## eh4 (Apr 10, 2016)

Definitely good to hear that Seiko has the protection circuit market, more confirmation bias for me having paid dearly for my 4 Orbtronics, which I use regularly and endeavor to treat well. 
There's something to be said though for a protection circuit that is itself protected inside of the light rather than bopping around on the battery. 
I mostly wanted protected batteries so I could use them in series, and as a safeguard when outside of a light.
Because if there's a way to mismanage it then I'll eventually set my pants on fire, probably in the dark, with no hands free, hopefully not on a ladder or in a tight crawl space, -though I'd never carry a bare 18650 anyway. 
I have a lot of respect and a tiny bit of fear of the energy contained in these things.


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## emarkd (Apr 10, 2016)

OnlyownEnergizer250lumen said:


> why would you choose the manker over the MH20? I considered the manker before I bought my mh20 and saw no reason to choose it over Nitecore. Can you explain?



Definitely off-topic here so let's keep our back-n-forth short, but I'll be happy to. As you notice I didn't really choose one over the other at first. In standard flashaholic style I bought them both, the MH20 this past summer and the U11 when it became available a couple of months ago. Here's a few comparison points:

* Size: The U11 carries *so much better* than the Nitecore. Its not even close. They may be very close in dimensions on paper but in real life all that extra bulk around the head of the MH20 makes it feel much thicker than the Manker in my pocket. Its just way too bulky for me. Honestly for me this one point is enough to tip it to the U11's favor, because if I can't handle having the light in my pocket I just won't carry it, which is useless in an EDC-style light.

* Tint: I know the MH20 is now available in neutral white (and GT), but back last summer it wasn't. Nitecore's cool white tends to be very cool, and this light is no exception. I don't like the tint. And as far as modding it goes -- well that's doable but isn't easy at all. In contrast the U11 is also quite cool, although my light wasn't quite as cool as the Nitecore. But modding it is dead simple. Mine's had three different emitters in it already, but the Nichia 219c in 5000K is the winner in my estimation.

* Beam: I call this a draw. Both are quite throwy little lights, but again the U11 manages to do it with less bulk. And if I wanted it to really throw I could drop an XP-L HI in it with about 15 minute's work, most of which is waiting for the equipment to heat up. Not an exaggeration.

* Charger: They both got one. Both of them have kinda crappy rubber covers. I'm not a fan of that, but at least neither is better than the other on this point.

* UI: Here's another big difference between them, and here both lights have pro's and con's. I never really got used to the MH20's dual-stage switch, but that's probably because I didn't spend much time with it. I'm sure its fine once you're used to it. The same can be said for the U11. Any light that uses long-presses for primary operations, like turning off, is doing it wrong to me, but I can get used to it. Really though, both lights have multiple modes and mode memory, and both lights have a shortcut to moonlight (but the U11 has a better moonlight mode). The Nitecore has shortcut to turbo which the U11 lacks. The Nitecore also has better mode spacing. The U11 is programmable though, and offers some neat extras like a "direct drive" turbo and a couple of funky disco modes. So again I'd call this one very close with the U11 barely edging out the Nitecore for me.

* Clip: The Nitecore has a better clip. The Manker is serviceable though; it does the job.

Don't think I'm down on the MH20 though. If you love it, then carry it. I just didn't love it, so I replaced mine with the Manker. And I do mean replaced -- I gave my MH20 away a while ago. But really the U11 is still a pretty large light. I only use it when I need the built-in charging, like when I'm traveling. Otherwise I choose to carry smaller lights without built-in charging most of the time.


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## ntalbot (Apr 10, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Definitely off-topic here so let's keep our back-n-forth short, but I'll be happy to. As you notice I didn't really choose one over the other at first. In standard flashaholic style I bought them both, the MH20 this past summer and the U11 when it became available a couple of months ago. Here's a few comparison points:
> 
> * Size: The U11 carries *so much better* than the Nitecore. Its not even close. They may be very close in dimensions on paper but in real life all that extra bulk around the head of the MH20 makes it feel much thicker than the Manker in my pocket. Its just way too bulky for me. Honestly for me this one point is enough to tip it to the U11's favor, because if I can't handle having the light in my pocket I just won't carry it, which is useless in an EDC-style light.
> 
> ...



Thanks for your thoughts and for bringing the U11 to my attention. I also didn't know you could get GT MH20's; that's great. I just wish the UI on the MH20 was a bit better. With a 2-stage switch it seems like they could have made a really intuitive UI, but Zebralight's is more intuitive and easier, even though it's single-stage. My dream is for Zebralight to start making lights with built-in charging and GT, and for Nitecore to come up with a better UI.


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 10, 2016)

I wonder how hard it would be to get the design schematics for the MkIII. That is a very valid point where does ZL source its electronics? I just went and emailed ZL CS asking them where they source their electronics from ie are the protection circuits made in Japan then sent to China for final assembly? I know it is a shot in the dark but I also asked if I could see a design schematic of the light. Hopefully I will get a response in the next couple of days.


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 11, 2016)

Hey! 

Zebralight actually responded to my email about where they source their parts from! The MkIII actually is mostly made of US sourced parts. This is the response they sent me. Vishay has manufacturing plants on 3 continents and Israel.

Subject: MkIII Electronics

Here are some of the major components and materials in the SC600 Mk III (HI):

- one IC, from Dallas, TX based Texas Instruments
- the rest (3) ICs, from Chandler, AZ based Microchip Technology
- all (3) MOSFETs from Shelton, CT based Vishay Intertechnology
- one inductor from Cary, IL based Coilcraft
- aluminum bars from Foothill, CA based Kaiser Aluminum
- glass mostly from Corning, NY based Corning (over 80% of the lens in the flashlights and headlamps we produced recently are Corning Gorilla Glass 3. You still have a 20% chance of not getting the gorilla glass though)
- LED from Durham, NC based Cree

The most important part of a battery protection circuitry is the MOSFET. Currently Vishay is the world's number one brand in the low voltage MOSFET field, period. The MOSFETs we use in the SC600 Mk III as well as all of our other lights are some of the best from Vishay. I don't know any good 18650 protection ICs/MOSFETs from Japan. There are some so-so but cheap protection ICs from Seiko that are popular in China, but you won't find them in any high performance li-ion systems. One problem in the current 18650 protection scheme is that the protection board is a separate entity, next (at the -end or +end) to the battery. Wires connecting the protection board and the battery could be damaged (or even shorted) from drops, punches, or cuts, etc., because the thin plastic wrapper is just that, a thin plastic wrapper. 

Hope this clears some things up for folks. I am greatly pleased by ZL's prompt and detailed reply!


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## snowlover91 (Apr 12, 2016)

Wow thanks for posting all the info, definitely another reason to buy ZL with mostly American made parts :thumbsup: I didn't realize the company they use is actually the number one brand for MOSFETs and it seems they've done their research with a thorough and informed decision in going with built in protection that is equal to or superior to that provided by a protection circuit on an 18650.


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## eh4 (Apr 12, 2016)

Wow, thanks for asking, and sharing that Celtic. 
That is cool.
ZL has been really kind and helpful the few times I've contacted them.


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## newbie66 (Apr 12, 2016)

Wow indeed! Very good response from ZL. Cheers to them for such a detailed response.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 12, 2016)

Very good response from ZL for sure. It does put confidence in their brand when they can actually list their suppliers in the manner provided. I would hope the paragraph on the battery protection puts many people's minds at ease in regards to the safety and protection provided when using unprotected 18650 cells in the light.


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## jswe (Apr 12, 2016)

Indeed, impressive of ZL to be so open with this information. 

Furthermore, I ordered an Zebralight SC600 MKIII HI a couple of days ago .


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 12, 2016)

I think you'll be very pleased. I was playing around with my HI in the garage at work yesterday. It's 120 yards from one side to the other and the lights are on timers so I was able to catch one full side of the garage with all the lights off. On full blast the HI was easily able to project a beam which fully illuminated the whole garage and far wall 120 yards away with more than enough light to see everything very well.


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## newbie66 (Apr 12, 2016)

jswe said:


> Indeed, impressive of ZL to be so open with this information.
> 
> Furthermore, I ordered an Zebralight SC600 MKIII HI a couple of days ago .



Welcome to the club!


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## markr6 (Apr 12, 2016)

newbie66 said:


> Wow indeed! Very good response from ZL. Cheers to them for such a detailed response.



No kidding! That is pretty amazing. Strong list of suppliers there, so it's no wonder they're willing to share.




ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> I think you'll be very pleased. I was playing around with my HI in the garage at work yesterday. It's 120 yards from one side to the other and the lights are on timers so I was able to catch one full side of the garage with all the lights off. On full blast the HI was easily able to project a beam which fully illuminated the whole garage and far wall 120 yards away with more than enough light to see everything very well.



I'm really starting to think of the HI as a good EDC or general purpose light. I love it!! I'm finding it to be not just a mini thrower, but something you can use anywhere since I has some decent spill as well.


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## run4jc (Apr 12, 2016)

Yeah, that's pretty cool. Clearly they are proud of the light and have every reason to be. I really am enjoying mine. Used pretty much exclusively for the early morning dog walk, and it has it all - good tint, decent spill, good throw, and output that'll make you giggle when you rank it up on high.


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## Oztorchfreak (Apr 12, 2016)

I really like my SC600MK3 and I still have all of the other versions before it.

I have been buying the SC60 series of lights as well but the SC63 is the last one in that series that I will buy.

The main issue is that it gets too hot too quickly in my hand compared to the heat developed by the SC600MK3 which has a greater mass to disperse the heat.

It is just a preference thing for me.

Even though the SC600MK3 is heavier I still prefer it knowing it will not get hot too quick when used on HIGH for long periods of time.


CHEERS


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## newbie66 (Apr 12, 2016)

markr6 said:


> No kidding! That is pretty amazing. Strong list of suppliers there, so it's no wonder they're willing to share.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



+1


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## newbie66 (Apr 12, 2016)

Oztorchfreak said:


> I really like my SC600MK3 and I still have all of the other versions before it.
> 
> I have been buying the SC60 series of lights as well but the SC63 is the last one in that series that I will buy.
> 
> ...




CHEERS!!


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## KeepingItLight (Apr 12, 2016)

Very impressive!

According to its explanation, ZebraLight's implementation of protection circuits is better than the typical Seiko circuit you find on a protected battery.

Once again, we discover that ZL uses top-notch engineering. 

I like to say ZebraLights are designed by engineers, for engineers. You don't get all the bling offered by some of the $1000 custom designs, but you do get almost everything a flashlight engineer would like to see in his own flashlight. High performance, flat regulation, efficient drivers, good UI, variety of modes (including Moonlight), potted electronics, solid build, tail-standing, etc. It's all there. 

And it comes at a mid-level price, albeit, one that falls at the top end of the range.


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## markr6 (Apr 12, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> I like to say ZebraLights are designed by engineers, for engineers. You don't get all the bling...



Man, I want a tactical crenelated SS bezel, 12 tactical strobe modes and tactical black anodizing so when I'm kicking *** on a submarine with Steven Segal and rescuing hostages from an airplane in Lebanon with Chuck Norris, I look cool! Come on Zebralight, join the bandwagon!


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## sidecross (Apr 12, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> Very impressive!
> 
> According to its explanation, ZebraLight's implementation of protection circuits is better than the typical Seiko circuit you find on a protected battery.
> 
> ...



+1 :thumbsup:


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## scout24 (Apr 12, 2016)

Thanks for sharing, CelticCross. Kudos to ZL, not just for sharing, but for the quality components! :thumbsup:


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## jondextan (Apr 12, 2016)

I waited for a month to have the MKIII HI finally ship out to me (from china) via EMS, but after April 2, Left Shanghai for Destination Country, no updates until now. I always have packages via EMS sent to me, and this is the first time that tracking has no update whatsoever. Zebralight said i should just wait. dang, more time to add to the month of waiting just for the package to ship.


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## eh4 (Apr 12, 2016)

jondextan said:


> I waited for a month to have the MKIII HI finally ship out to me (from china) via EMS, but after April 2, Left Shanghai for Destination Country, no updates until now. I always have packages via EMS sent to me, and this is the first time that tracking has no update whatsoever. Zebralight said i should just wait. dang, more time to add to the month of waiting just for the package to ship.



It'll suddenly appear, enjoy the uncertainty.


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## scs (Apr 15, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> Hey!
> 
> Zebralight actually responded to my email about where they source their parts from! The MkIII actually is mostly made of US sourced parts. This is the response they sent me. Vishay has manufacturing plants on 3 continents and Israel.
> 
> ...



If one asked Armytek the same question, I wonder how they'd answer.
Applause for Zebralight for being so transparent, when they don't have to be.
Thumbs down for they who boast so openly, yet never back it up.


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 15, 2016)

I have asked AT the same question they wont answer.


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## mega_lumens (Apr 15, 2016)

I'm intrigued to see the MOSFET Vishay connection even in the flashlight industry. Vishay was started in Israel by a Holocaust survivor Dr. Felix Zandman who was a legend, genius and engineering Einstein whose inventions transformed industries all over the world and continue to have impact today.


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## Lex Icon (Apr 15, 2016)

scs said:


> If one asked Armytek the same question, I wonder how they'd answer.
> Applause for Zebralight for being so transparent, when they don't have to be.
> Thumbs down for they who boast so openly, yet never back it up.


Excellent point, the same question could apply to all of the other high and medium profile manufacturers, not only in regards to transparency.
Honesty and courtesy are effective, low cost investments.


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## run4jc (Apr 15, 2016)

I don't chime in often but it's time. This thread caused me to buy this light and I'm glad it did. This is one solid chunk of a well made, incredibly bright, fun to operate light. And I join my brethren here in applauding Zebralights transparency. Hang in there, jondextan - it'll be worth the wait. I absolutely love mine and appreciate CelticCross74 for starting this thread.


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 15, 2016)

thank you man I appreciate it. Was blown away by ZL's quick and detailed response. Now I am curious. Will throw NC an email on where they source the parts for their MH27 from, Olight where they source their SR52UT parts from and Fenix where they source their TK75 parts from. Should be interesting. Was pretty darned pleased to know that ZL uses US parts just assembled in China.


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## hivoltage (Apr 16, 2016)

So who sells ZL, besides Amazon I cant find this light.


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## emarkd (Apr 16, 2016)

Don't buy from Amazon. Buy direct from zebra or from an actual authorized dealer like illumn.com


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 16, 2016)

I would just buy direct from ZL.


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## hivoltage (Apr 16, 2016)

Dang nobody has it in stock, I was wanting to get one for a present from my wife to me!!!


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 16, 2016)

It's been a pretty popular light. I was on the pre-order one month or so before release and I still had to wait until the second run was completed. Order directly from ZL and get yourself in the queue.


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## recDNA (Apr 16, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Don't buy from Amazon. Buy direct from zebra or from an actual authorized dealer like illumn.com


Why?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 16, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Why?



Because a lot of times Amazon, or the dealer selling through Amazon, is not an authorized dealer and you can get screwed if you need to rely on the warranty.


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## recDNA (Apr 16, 2016)

Oh OK thanks. I actually like that Amazon gives the 30 day money back guarantee however after 30 days you may well be out of luck. Most flashlights and batteries that I buy that break do so in the first 30 days. I would never return anything overseas.


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## Oztorchfreak (Apr 16, 2016)

I always buy from ZebraLight direct and have never had any problems.

I have bought seven lights from them over the years without even one issue.

The new SC600 MKIII is a great little light as I have the first issue then the MKII and now the MKIII.

The SC63 gets too hot in my hand and have put it aside for the moment.

I have some models of the SC52 as well but running on 14500 batteries to get more light output the batteries don't last all that long.



CHEERS


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## CelticCross74 (Apr 16, 2016)

I always buy directly from ZL


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## Connor (Apr 16, 2016)

Oztorchfreak said:


> The SC63 gets too hot in my hand and have put it aside for the moment.



I set my SC63w to H2 (312 lumens) for normal use. Almost no heat at all and full power is only a double click away.


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## ntalbot (Apr 17, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Oh OK thanks. I actually like that Amazon gives the 30 day money back guarantee however after 30 days you may well be out of luck. Most flashlights and batteries that I buy that break do so in the first 30 days. I would never return anything overseas.



ZL has 30 money-back guarantee as well. It works; I used it once.


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## recDNA (Apr 17, 2016)

With free return shipping?


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## Lumencrazy (Apr 17, 2016)

If you buy from the manufacturer you get the latest version. The initial releases, as we have all observed, can have issues. Especially Armytek, where you are almost guaranteed not to get what you ordered if you buy from a distributor


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## EsthetiX (Apr 17, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Because a lot of times Amazon, or the dealer selling through Amazon, is not an authorized dealer and you can get screwed if you need to rely on the warranty.



The people selling is on Amazon are Authorized dealers. Zebralight would warranty it anyway regardless.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 17, 2016)

And you know this how? 

My statement was a general one nut just for ZL lights. There are many products that Amazon sells that once the Amazon money-back return expires you have no further coverage back with the company because they are not an authorized seller. This applies to tools, beauty products, electronics and many other items. You need to do your research before pulling the trigger if warranty support is important to you.


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## emarkd (Apr 17, 2016)

Yes, please don't be fooled, there are definitely grey market and even counterfeit goods on Amazon. Items warehoused and fulfilled by Amazon have it even worse due to a practice called co-mingling. Yes Amazon does a good job of helping customers who have issues but those issues have to be discovered quickly after the sale. I buy a lot from Amazon (not usually flashlights though), I'm even a Prime member, but you have to be careful there.


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## EsthetiX (Apr 17, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> And you know this how?
> 
> My statement was a general one nut just for ZL lights. There are many products that Amazon sells that once the Amazon money-back return expires you have no further coverage back with the company because they are not an authorized seller. This applies to tools, beauty products, electronics and many other items. You need to do your research before pulling the trigger if warranty support is important to you.



Because I have dealt with it first hand. We're talking about Zebralight in this thread. Not other companies.


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## emarkd (Apr 17, 2016)

And Zebralight is different from other brands/items because....?

You act as if there's no way grey market zebras could be out there. They are, and buying from Amazon raises your chances of encountering them. Not saying it's guaranteed, just that's it's much more likely than when buying from a known authorized dealer or direct from Zebra.


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## EsthetiX (Apr 17, 2016)

emarkd said:


> And Zebralight is different from other brands/items because....?
> 
> You act as if there's no way grey market zebras could be out there. They are, and buying from Amazon raises your chances of encountering them. Not saying it's guaranteed, just that's it's much more likely than when buying from a known authorized dealer or direct from Zebra.



I would NOT worry about "grey market" Zebralight. C'mon. Zebralight is a small company that is very easy to deal with. I bought one on ebay once and they warrantied it just fine. Purchasing it on Amazon is fine. I'm not disputing your claims that some manufacturer's will not honor items purchased from "unauthorized sources". I am an online seller/distributor myself.

Amazon is a good choice FOR THIS LIGHT if you don't want to wait and don't mind spending a little extra. The price is a bit higher due to seller fees and banking off the fact that ZL and other sellers are backordered. Also, Amazon has VERY strict metrics that it's sellers have to abide by and it's generally true when a seller claims items in stock. Otherwise they get dinged with a performance hit from Amazon. There are several other benefits to purchasing on Amazon that I will not go into here.

Here is the return policy BTW http://www.zebralight.com/Returns-and-Refunds_ep_42-1.html not really seeing anything that says "You must buy from an authorized dealer". These lights don't even have serial numbers (like ALL Fenix after 08 do). They just want proof showing the date of purchase to ensure it's within the warranty limits. They don't check too hard on that. Trust me, they're busy enough as it is. It is a common deterrent mechanism.


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## Koam (Apr 17, 2016)

I searched Amazon and don't see this light listed for sale.


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## EsthetiX (Apr 17, 2016)

Koam said:


> I searched Amazon and don't see this light listed for sale.



Shoulda pulled the trigger faster. Looks like the seller that had it on Amazon just ran out of stock! The listing gets temporarily removed from Amazon until the item comes into stock again.


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## EsthetiX (Apr 18, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> Took some digging but I found the thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?390887-SC-600-Clip-Mod
> 
> It's actually an older posting but I just did it to the MkIII. I'll post up a pic this weekend.




I wish the SC600 series had the same clip style as SC52/62. This is helpful. Thanks.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 18, 2016)

EsthetiX said:


> I wish the SC600 series had the same clip style as SC52/62. This is helpful. Thanks.



If there is any downfall to this light, it's the clip. It's still a great value for the price - and clips aren't for everybody. I never used to be a clip person until I got a couple of serious hot pocket incidents.


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## oKtosiTe (Apr 18, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> If there is any downfall to this light, it's the clip. It's still a great value for the price - and clips aren't for everybody. I never used to be a clip person until I got a couple of serious hot pocket incidents.



I see a lot of people complaining about the pocket clip on this light. Since I don't have one myself yet, I can't really investigate why...
I love reversible clips though, and have had zero issues with the clip on my O-light S10R-II, which superficially seems very similar.
On my Quark X AA2 and G25C2-II (both screwed-down ring clips), I've had to occasionally adjust spring tension, though.
So what exactly is wrong with the clip?


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 18, 2016)

My only issue with the clip is that it clips onto the body rather than being retained by screws. I've found that clips like this aren't very strong. If you clip the light onto the outside of a pocket or belt and brush up against something strong enough it is possible to pull the clip from the body of the light.


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## oKtosiTe (Apr 18, 2016)

ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond said:


> My only issue with the clip is that it clips onto the body rather than being retained by screws. I've found that clips like this aren't very strong. If you clip the light onto the outside of a pocket or belt and brush up against something strong enough it is possible to pull the clip from the body of the light.


Different users, different uses, I guess. I mainly use the clip for hat mounting.  
Most screw-clip lights have the clip pointing in the "wrong" direction for me. The Quark was unusual in that sense, with its reversible body.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Apr 18, 2016)

Exactly - what works for one person doesn't work for another. Personal choices - that's why the workaround clip option works for me.


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## Okiecat (Apr 18, 2016)

Just ordered one and some panasonic reds. Ive been reading for awhile off and on. As you can see I havent posted any because I havent any knowledge to share or add. I ordered direct, was wondering where everyone was getting all this great stuff! Anyway I need a charger, starting search now. Have a couple of Fenix. Just dont know enough yet. Thanks


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## oKtosiTe (Apr 18, 2016)

Okiecat said:


> Just ordered one and some panasonic reds. Ive been reading for awhile off and on. As you can see I havent posted any because I havent any knowledge to share or add. I ordered direct, was wondering where everyone was getting all this great stuff! Anyway I need a charger, starting search now. Have a couple of Fenix. Just dont know enough yet. Thanks


Perhaps a new thread would have been better... In any case the Xtar VP2 is an excellent charger for a very reasonable price.


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## TA_ls1 (Apr 18, 2016)

How waterproof is the sc600 mk iii hi? The site says 2 meters for 30 min but then only IPX7 vs IPX8. I've seen other lights that say 2 meters but IPX8 instead of 7. For example I've seen videos of the nitecore srt7 being used to dive and it is rated at 2 meters and IPX8. 

So what is it for the mk iii hi? Is it waterproof, and could it be used underwater?


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## recDNA (Apr 18, 2016)

Remember the unprotected high drain battery. Even if it can it shouldn't


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## Chinook (Apr 18, 2016)

seems an odd thing to intentionally prevent ppl from using their stash of perfectly capable batteries


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## Connor (Apr 18, 2016)

Unprotected high drain batteries are not more susceptible to catastrophic failure by being immersed in water than protected cells. 
In fact I would wager that protected cells have more possible points of failure due to the electronics & the extra conductive path involved.

That being said the ZL's IPX rating suggests that it is meant to survive a short accidental immersion in water and not much more. 
The weak spot is obviously the electronic switch cover thingy, the tailcap and the lens _*should *_be quite water-proof.


----------



## recDNA (Apr 18, 2016)

Withdrawn.


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## RedForest UK (May 6, 2016)

Just a heads up. If anyone is having trouble finding one of these in the UK/EU, please PM me.


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## aginthelaw (May 6, 2016)

3 weeks to have my replacement sent to me. Instead of replacing the faulty tail cap, they just sent a whole new light


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## newbie66 (May 6, 2016)

aginthelaw said:


> 3 weeks to have my replacement sent to me. Instead of replacing the faulty tail cap, they just sent a whole new light



+1 to Zebralight.


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## cp2315 (May 7, 2016)

Very very bad influence guys. I just ordered one. Now you are happy! My initial thought was to get mh20gt since I love mh20 and more throw is great. Then I read all 9 pages here and realized I love my sc600 mk I too and I still use it every night as a night light. So MK III should serve me well. Thanks for all the helpful information and thoughts anyway!


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## snowlover91 (May 7, 2016)

cp2315 said:


> Very very bad influence guys. I just ordered one. Now you are happy! My initial thought was to get mh20gt since I love mh20 and more throw is great. Then I read all 9 pages here and realized I love my sc600 mk I too and I still use it every night as a night light. So MK III should serve me well. Thanks for all the helpful information and thoughts anyway!



They're hard little lights to resist  I have to say the Mk3 HI is definitely my favorite of the 18650 variants and maybe favorite overall due to its excellent balance of throw while still maintaining great spill and tint. Combine that with the fact it can run on turbo for a long time before heating up along with the compact size makes it the perfect light imo.


----------



## stevie-ca (May 7, 2016)

I placed order also, now the wait.


----------



## Skaaphaas (May 8, 2016)

What is the ballpark time from ordering to delivery?

I have acquaintances in the US at the moment, for about the next 5 weeks. Wondering if I should just bite the bullet and proceed.


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## TheRealSpinner (May 8, 2016)

Do it sooner than later. Seems like 2-5 weeks is normal…


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## Skaaphaas (May 8, 2016)

If it is longer than 5 weeks I'm kinda up 'n certain creek with only my hands for propulsion.


----------



## Vothelo (May 8, 2016)

aginthelaw said:


> 3 weeks to have my replacement sent to me. Instead of replacing the faulty tail cap, they just sent a whole new light



Great...I just sent them a mail regarding my faulty tail cap...I was hoping that they would just send me a quick tail cap...3 weeks!?!?


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## cp2315 (May 9, 2016)

I must have got really lucky. Ordered on 5/7 and today I got shipment notice!


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## TheRealSpinner (May 9, 2016)

I got my shipment notice today, as well.


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## markr6 (May 9, 2016)

cp2315 said:


> I must have got really lucky. Ordered on 5/7 and today I got shipment notice!



That's weird! But I've seen it before. They either don't update the website quickly, or fulfill outstanding orders and don't have enough left over to sell online.


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## stevie-ca (May 9, 2016)

My order of 5/7 shipped also


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## TA_ls1 (May 9, 2016)

Mine shipped today too, so excited! They told me they have it in stock today, but it's not showing that way on the site. Maybe they don't have many.


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## eekazum (May 9, 2016)

Newb question: where are you guys ordering from? I'd there a good deal I'm not seeing or do you have to buy from their site?


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## TA_ls1 (May 9, 2016)

I always use their site. There's a few other vendors that carry them, but going direct through them always seems to be a good experience, and they have great customer service.


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## fletch31 (May 9, 2016)

I ordered back on April 16th from their website and also received shipping notice today. :thumbsup:


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## eekazum (May 10, 2016)

Ordered. You guys really are a bad influence. I can't even come up with an excuse for why I want this (yeah, I said want, not need).

I guess I'm just getting tired of waiting for someone to do a sc600 mk3hi vs mh20gt comparison.

Now I need to read the rest of this thread before I ask more questions that have already been answered.


----------



## cp2315 (May 10, 2016)

Just like you, I was waiting for comparison of mh20gt and sc600iii hi. Can't wait anymore. 
Have to make my own choice.


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## emarkd (May 10, 2016)

I can't do a real comparison between the two because I don't have the mh20gt, only the normal mh20. I can say, however, that there's nothing nitecore could've done to the mh20 to make me prefer it to the sc600mk3. Yeah maybe it's got a bit more throw, but I doubt it's much and even if it were I could never get past how much larger and more chunky the body is. Seriously, if I can't stand to carry it's thick head what's the point? 

So for me I have no doubt, the sc600mk3 is the proper choice between the two. No doubt in my mind. In fact I gave my normal mh20 away because it was just collecting dust.


----------



## BLUE LED (May 10, 2016)

cp2315 said:


> Just like you, I was waiting for comparison of mh20gt and sc600iii hi. Can't wait anymore.
> Have to make my own choice.



There are comparisons out there of the MH20GT and SC600 MKIII.


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## BLUE LED (May 10, 2016)

Efest IMR18650 2500mAh

Diameter: 18,40mm

Height: 65,25mm

*

Will this work in the SC600 Mark III or are these cells too long


----------



## eekazum (May 10, 2016)

BLUE LED said:


> There are comparisons out there of the MH20GT and SC600 MKIII.



I just googled it and one came up! Where the heck was this last week?

It doesn't matter anyhow, in the back of my mind, I had it set to get this light anyways. I wanted comparisons like how it heats up in each mode, how long each mode lasts, little quirks that distinguish the two, etc. I'm fully aware the sc600 isn't a throw light so it is hard to compare but the mh20gt is no joke either. Everyone has their preferences but it's not fair to judge the mh20gt based on the mh20. Same 1000 lumens, completely different light. The big head doesn't bug me because I had the eagtac gx30a3d and the mh27 before. Really looking forward to what the sc600 hi can do.


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## mhanlen (May 10, 2016)

What were you wanting to know? I have reviewed both, and if you watch the Zebralight review then the MH20GT, I think you can have a good idea which is right for you.


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## markr6 (May 10, 2016)

eekazum said:


> I just googled it and one came up! Where the heck was this last week?
> 
> It doesn't matter anyhow, in the back of my mind, I had it set to get this light anyways. I wanted comparisons like how it heats up in each mode, how long each mode lasts, little quirks that distinguish the two, etc. I'm fully aware the sc600 isn't a throw light so it is hard to compare but the mh20gt is no joke either. Everyone has their preferences but it's not fair to judge the mh20gt based on the mh20. Same 1000 lumens, completely different light. The big head doesn't bug me because I had the eagtac gx30a3d and the mh27 before. Really looking forward to what the sc600 hi can do.




Was it this?

https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/4hcu8n/nitecore_mh20gt_vs_zebralight_sc600w_mkiii_hi/

Very nice comparison. And WOW that MH20GT is a lot bigger than I would have thought. Feeling good with the Zebralight


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## eekazum (May 10, 2016)

mhanlen said:


> What were you wanting to know? I have reviewed both, and if you watch the Zebralight review then the MH20GT, I think you can have a good idea which is right for you.



Yep, saw your review last night. Really good and in depth. I think you are the only one that does video run times like that and yes, its boring but helps immensely. I actually meant to play your reviews and jot down run times but I figured I was going to get the mk3 eventually anyways, I might as well pull the trigger and see for myself.


----------



## eekazum (May 10, 2016)

markr6 said:


> Was it this?
> 
> https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/4hcu8n/nitecore_mh20gt_vs_zebralight_sc600w_mkiii_hi/
> 
> Very nice comparison. And WOW that MH20GT is a lot bigger than I would have thought. Feeling good with the Zebralight



That's the one I was talking about. And by no means am I trying to defend the mh20gt. I just happen to have it and not the mk3.


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## LimuHead (May 10, 2016)

True story:

Yesterday I wrote ZL asking when the HI light would be back in stock. Their reply was that if I ordered now it would take about a week.

So I ordered last night and paid the extra $4 for the faster shipping.

I got a shipping notice today!

I already own an H602w and an SC63w and love them both.

Looking forward to my next New Flashlight Day!!


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## roger-roger (May 11, 2016)

Similar thing happened to me. Last week on the 3rd, I asked when an SC62w listed as "in stock" would ship. They replied next week (meaning this week). It shipped on the 4th.




LimuHead said:


> True story:
> 
> Yesterday I wrote ZL asking when the HI light would be back in stock. Their reply was that if I ordered now it would take about a week.
> 
> ...


----------



## eekazum (May 11, 2016)

LimuHead said:


> True story:
> 
> Yesterday I wrote ZL asking when the HI light would be back in stock. Their reply was that if I ordered now it would take about a week.
> 
> ...



Same as you, I ordered last night as well. No email yet :mecry:. I do understand it was listed as out-of-stock when I clicked "order" and I did not opt for any special shipping. Oh well, patience, patience, I guess.


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## tops2 (May 11, 2016)

Um..yeah..I had a dream last night I ordered and received this light and it turns on real hot for a few seconds before the PID kicked in.. I know I'm interested in this light but to dream about it...maybe it's a sign..


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## TA_ls1 (May 11, 2016)

I ordered mine on 4/26, and it shipped out on Monday. Problem is that on the stupid USPS site the last update was on Monday 5/9 when a shipping label was created. Now it is 5:30 on Wednesday and it's still sitting in TX. The estimated delivery date is Friday and I'm going to be extremely angry with USPS if I don't get it then. I had this happen before with USPS where I ordered a group buy light and it was shipped on a Monday and was supposed to be to me by Thursday, but I had to wait until the following Monday to get it. I really hate USPS.

Is anyone else waiting on the sc600 mkiii hi having this issue with USPS?


----------



## irongate (May 11, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Well if you need a reason to justify buying a new light, you may not be quite as far gone as some of the rest of us  So I'm not sure if my comments will help or not.
> 
> Personally, I think the SC600mk3 HI is better than the MH20 in every way (well, the MH20 has a better built-in charger...). So for me that's good enough. The Zebra is brighter, more intense, has a _much_ cleaner tint, better regulation, better UI, and its much smaller. Here's a comparison photo for you:
> 
> ...



Being this is my first post and new to here, could you list what those lights are. Thank You


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## cp2315 (May 11, 2016)

Exactly the same here. Stuck in tx


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## TA_ls1 (May 11, 2016)

I wish I would've paid for the faster shipping had I known.


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## EsthetiX (May 11, 2016)

TA_ls1 said:


> I ordered mine on 4/26, and it shipped out on Monday. Problem is that on the stupid USPS site the last update was on Monday 5/9 when a shipping label was created. Now it is 5:30 on Wednesday and it's still sitting in TX. The estimated delivery date is Friday and I'm going to be extremely angry with USPS if I don't get it then. I had this happen before with USPS where I ordered a group buy light and it was shipped on a Monday and was supposed to be to me by Thursday, but I had to wait until the following Monday to get it. I really hate USPS.
> 
> Is anyone else waiting on the sc600 mkiii hi having this issue with USPS?



I don't think it has anything to do with USPS. They most likely just printed the label ahead of time in anticipation of shipping and it has not left their warehouse yet. I have generated labels and used them up to 3 weeks later when I was backordered on certain product at my company. I assume they're doing this to boost efficiency. ZL is known for taking more orders than they can bring in from manufacturer level. Does it say anything more than just "a shipping label was created" in your tracking info?

I ordered when they were completely out of stock at the TX location. Took about 3 weeks for my order to arrive (today). I believe they just received new stock and are sending out a wave of shipments right now.


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## TA_ls1 (May 11, 2016)

Well that makes a lot of sense. I messaged them earlier asking about the status, so we'll see what they say.


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## cp2315 (May 11, 2016)

Mine says accepted. I assume that means it is already with usps


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## Equitymind (May 11, 2016)

LimuHead said:


> True story:
> 
> Yesterday I wrote ZL asking when the HI light would be back in stock. Their reply was that if I ordered now it would take about a week.
> 
> ...




I emailed them ONE day after you (exactly 24 hours ago was my reply) and was told they just went through their last batch and that it would be a three week wait. :sigh:


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## EsthetiX (May 11, 2016)

cp2315 said:


> Mine says accepted. I assume that means it is already with usps



Yes, "accepted" means it was scanned into their system and is no longer with ZL.


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## GaryRanson (May 11, 2016)

Also waiting for a shipment so I feel for you guys.


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## EsthetiX (May 11, 2016)

I tend to preference warm versions. Ordered it in warm and briefly compared against a SC62w. Very impressed overall. I do appreciate form factor and aesthetics of the SC62w, but there is a big difference between the two on high levels. SC600w MKIII HI is visibly brighter/warmer especially on high levels. Hotspot is definitely more defined.


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## scot (May 11, 2016)

You guys are complaining about your lights not being shipped yet.
When I track my package, USPS says it was delivered today. Completely false. 
No package delivered today. Someone was home all day. 
Now that's frustrating!!


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## jal (May 11, 2016)

Got mine today, from what looks like a big batch. I like it a lot, and the low-low is great.


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## EsthetiX (May 11, 2016)

jal said:


> Got mine today, from what looks like a big batch. I like it a lot, and the low-low is great.



Agreed. I dig the "Low-Low".


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## TA_ls1 (May 12, 2016)

jal said:


> Got mine today, from what looks like a big batch. I like it a lot, and the low-low is great.



When did you order yours?


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## eekazum (May 12, 2016)

irongate said:


> Being this is my first post and new to here, could you list what those lights are. Thank You



From left to right: manker u11, nitecore mh20, zebralight sc600 mk3 hi, and eagletac dx30


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## eekazum (May 12, 2016)

Equitymind said:


> I emailed them ONE day after you (exactly 24 hours ago was my reply) and was told they just went through their last batch and that it would be a three week wait. :sigh:



Hey, I ordered that same night as limuhead and I get the feeling I'm on the next batch too.


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## LimuHead (May 12, 2016)

LimuHead said:


> True story:
> 
> Yesterday I wrote ZL asking when the HI light would be back in stock. Their reply was that if I ordered now it would take about a week.
> 
> ...


(This is me quoting myself for thread clarity purposes.)

The latest tracking update from USPS says my HI is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, but the location still says Irving, TX. My expectations are at around 25% of it actually happening. 

When I bought my SC63w not too long ago with the free shipping from ZL, the USPS tracking showed it being picked up from ZL. Then it spent a whole week in Lakeview, TX before suddenly being shipped to CA overnight on the weekend. It showed up the next Monday, a few days later than USPS said it would. That's the main reason I went for the faster shipping this time. Watching your light sit at the P.O. for a week in Texas can be unnerving.

BTW, when the SC63w hadn't shown up on time and I contacted ZL about it they opened a case number and kept it open until the problem was resolved. Great CS!

My main hope is to give encouragement and hope to those dealing with USPS shipping out of Texas. 

It can be strange.

I'll let ya'll know if my HI actually shows up tomorrow. Like I said, my expectations are at about 25% that it'll happen.


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## Animalmother (May 12, 2016)

How fast does it regulate the temperature when it gets hot? 1300 lumens is nice, but if it's only for 1 minute or so before it looses more then half its brightness its just like every other light to me. I am tempted to buy it only if it can hold that 1300 lumens flat until the cell goes dry.

My Nitecore P12GT is bright initially but after a minute its so hot it's at less then half the brightness. Made me disappointed since i need the brightest lights with throw in timber mines.


----------



## scs (May 12, 2016)

Animalmother said:


> How fast does it regulate the temperature when it gets hot? 1300 lumens is nice, but if it's only for 1 minute or so before it looses more then half its brightness its just like every other light to me. I am tempted to buy it only if it can hold that 1300 lumens flat until the cell goes dry.
> 
> My Nitecore P12GT is bright initially but after a minute its so hot it's at less then half the brightness. Made me disappointed since i need the brightest lights with throw in timber mines.



There's a review of the standard model by member selfbuilt with runtime plots, take a look.
In short, no. Under almost all usage conditions, it cannot hold 1300 lumens with flat regulation until the cell goes dry.


----------



## GunnarGG (May 12, 2016)

If you need 1300 lumens for long time you better get a bigger light.
These small lights must step down or they will overheat.
Will probably work in cold conditions though.


----------



## emarkd (May 12, 2016)

irongate said:


> Being this is my first post and new to here, could you list what those lights are. Thank You



Sure.

1. Manker U11. Manker is pretty new to the market and has been considered kind of a "budget" offering so far (not that there's anything wrong with that), but they're working hard to be taken seriously and are doing some good things. I really like this U11 (after I did an emitter swap in it. it was too cool tinted). For a good throwing small light with USB charging, its hard to beat this guy right now I think.

2. Nitecore MH20. This guy was kind of the first one of its kind -- small, throwy, semi-pocketable with USB charging built in. Its very popular and has spawned several similar products, like the Manker next to it, and several outright copycats (see Nitenumen, et al..). Nitecore themselves now offer it with a neutral emitter or with an HI emitter, so there's options if you like this guy. For me, I always found the head too big for comfortable pocket carry. But that's just me. Since making this photo I've actually given that light to a family member so I no longer have it.

3. Zebralight SC600w mk3 HI. The light this thread is about. I'll spare you the details cause they're all around you here. Just a personal note though: unless the built-in charging is important to you, this is the one to buy.

4. Eagletac DX30LC2. This light takes a different approach by keeping its slim "tube-style" body but adding a flat-dome emitter. It was one of the first lights on the market to do so, making it one of the throwiest edc lights available for a while. Of course the bigger reflectored lights came along and de-throned it, plus you can get other tube lights with flat-dome emitters now, but this one made waves when it came out. And its still a very good light if you're an Eagletac fan. Its also got options now, available with a neutral white emitter or with built-in charging.

Hope that helps. If you've got further questions just ask. And welcome to the community! Watch your wallet!


----------



## markr6 (May 12, 2016)

scot said:


> You guys are complaining about your lights not being shipped yet.
> When I track my package, USPS says it was delivered today. Completely false.
> No package delivered today. Someone was home all day.
> Now that's frustrating!!



I wouldn't worry too much. The USPS tracking is the MOST WORTHLESS POS EVER! Coming from someone who orders random things online every day or every week (I'm addicted), I know. I'm waiting for the day when I track something and it just says *"Status of Item: Don't worry about it" *because that's the best they can do about 25% of the time.


----------



## kj2 (May 12, 2016)

Kinda an impulse buy, but I ordered one at the ZL dealer here. Should arrive tomorrow. Will see if I like it.


----------



## mhanlen (May 12, 2016)

Just stopping in here to post this. Someone had mentioned in my review that it had been reported that the sc600mkiii HI draws 6amps, and that a typical Panasonic 3400 battery isn't a good choice. I sent them a query, having experienced no issues using it.

Here is their response.


Department: Sales

Subject: Battery question regarding sc600mkiii HI

Unprotected Panasonic 3400mAh is good enough for the SC600 Mk III HI. The current draw is less than the 6Amp mentioned (a typical multimeter won't give you accurate measurements because of the resistance introduced by the testing leads, etc.)

Sincerely,

ZebraLight, Inc.


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## cp2315 (May 12, 2016)

Now it is delivered. I guess people just forgot to update the status until it is delivered.


----------



## jal (May 12, 2016)

TA_ls1 said:


> When did you order yours?



I placed the order on their site on 2016.04.18.


----------



## scs (May 12, 2016)

mhanlen said:


> Just stopping in here to post this. Someone had mentioned in my review that it had been reported that the sc600mkiii HI draws 6amps, and that a typical Panasonic 3400 battery isn't a good choice. I sent them a query, having experienced no issues using it.
> 
> Here is their response.
> 
> ...



Someone please explain why the [additional] resistance introduced by the DMM produces a HIGHER current reading.


----------



## TheRealSpinner (May 12, 2016)

I placed my order (directly from ZL website) for the SC600w MKIII HI on 4/14 (along with an SC600w). The standard version shipped out 4/18, and the HI version shipped 5/9. I was a little concerned because the email I got from ZL Didn't come with a tracking number, but, to my surprise, it arrived 5/11!!!

I live in CA, and didn't expect it to arrive until 5/12 or 5/13. Now it's time to get some pics (from my phone, I don't have a regular camera).


----------



## xtn (May 12, 2016)

Okay so I'm new around here. I'm just starting to get into modern flashlights. I started with a basic Surefire, then some 230 lumin Gander Mountain GTX thing. I had just discovered a world outside of traditional alkaline batteries. But I still didn't know about 18650s and the magic they contain. But now I'm running a PD35, a MT20C, and an HC30 headlamp.

But I will NOT order this Zebralight.

Don't get me wrong. It sounds like a great product. But I read about and watch videos of the interface, and I'm turned off by it. I like four or five brightness levels available by cycling through the steps. I don't like the complexity of three main levels, then three sub-levels from which I have to choose and program, and then access with sequences of double clicks and whatever else that I have to memorize. Functionally, it looks like a fantastic build, but I just don't think I have the smarts to operate it.

xtn


----------



## markr6 (May 12, 2016)

xtn said:


> Okay so I'm new around here. I'm just starting to get into modern flashlights. I started with a basic Surefire, then some 230 lumin Gander Mountain GTX thing. I had just discovered a world outside of traditional alkaline batteries. But I still didn't know about 18650s and the magic they contain. But now I'm running a PD35, a MT20C, and an HC30 headlamp.
> 
> But I will NOT order this Zebralight.
> 
> ...



Don't get too turned off.

1. It's so easy and like second nature after using it for a bit
2. Worst-case scenario you skip the programming and use it as a 3-mode light. That's it. The mode spacing is pretty good as is, so no worries about programming.


----------



## scs (May 12, 2016)

xtn said:


> Okay so I'm new around here. I'm just starting to get into modern flashlights. I started with a basic Surefire, then some 230 lumin Gander Mountain GTX thing. I had just discovered a world outside of traditional alkaline batteries. But I still didn't know about 18650s and the magic they contain. But now I'm running a PD35, a MT20C, and an HC30 headlamp.
> 
> But I will NOT order this Zebralight.
> 
> ...



Just press and hold to turn light on and cycle through LOW, MEDIUM, and HIGH.
Release at desired level.
If desired, double click to alternate between the 2 outputs at that level.
The brighter output is fixed and cannot be modified.
The dimmer output can be replaced with others
Single click to turn light off.
It's that simple.

To program, turn light on and cycle to desired level as above.
Double click 6 times in quick succession to enter program mode.
Double click to cycle through available alternate outputs.
Single click to turn light off when done.
It's that simple.

Single click from OFF to HIGH.
Double click from OFF to Medium.
Press and hold from ON or OFF to LOW or cycle through modes.
It's that simple.

Took me 1 min reading the instructions and 5 mins to start operating it like I've been using in all my life.


----------



## TA_ls1 (May 12, 2016)

Just got mine today, so USPS must've just not been updating their site. What a solid little light! It feels great in my hand, and I can't wait for it to get dark tonight. I do have a question for other SC600 MK III HI owners though. It almost seems to me (and I know I'm being nit picky) that the LED or little black circle around the LED is slightly off center. I took pictures, and you can see that black circle looks slightly off. In the second pic I rotated the light 180 degrees. Is this how all of them are? I can't comment on the beam though as I haven't tested it in the dark yet.

Edit: I'm not so good at this photo uploading thing on this site, sorry they came in so big...


----------



## jal (May 12, 2016)

xtn said:


> I don't like the complexity of three main levels, then three sub-levels from which I have to choose and program, and then access with sequences of double clicks and whatever else that I have to memorize. Functionally, it looks like a fantastic build, but I just don't think I have the smarts to operate it.
> 
> xtn




I'm mostly agreeing with Markr6, but wanted to chime in as someone who was a bit of a skeptic about the UI. It is different than most other lights, but is actually surprisingly intuitive once you have it in your hand. I don't find a need to monkey with the sub-levels after setting it, but perhaps other people do. Really, I just adjusted this one to low-low; that's the only change I made.

The thing I think it took me the longest to get used to about it is that the double-click timeout has to expire before the light goes off. Doesn't take long at all (feels like about 10ms) and doesn't effect use; it just seems to hesitate a bit before turning off.

My suggestion would be (assuming you care at all about revisiting it, that is) to play with someone else's a little. The written descriptions of the UI come off as a lot more complicated than the actual UI itself.


----------



## snowlover91 (May 12, 2016)

TA, from what I can tell the LED looks centered to me! How is the tint and beam quality on yours? Mine is one of the best warm tints I own and the best out of all my Zebralights.


----------



## TA_ls1 (May 12, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> TA, from what I can tell the LED looks centered to me! How is the tint and beam quality on yours? Mine is one of the best warm tints I own and the best out of all my Zebralights.



Yeah the LED looks very well centered, I was wondering about the black little circle around the LED, not sure what it is for or if that being a little off matters. 

Anyways, I've shined it in the house in dark rooms, and it's amazing. It's just getting dark now. I've compared it to my sc62w which was my favorite light, but I think the sc600 MK III HI is taking over. With the same UI, neutral tint, and lumen levels, it was a good comparison. The sc600 MK III HI is just brighter period. The hot spot is a bit brighter, and so is the spill. It'll be interesting to compare it's throw to my MH20GT. I don't think I'll need another light until the hi cri version of this light comes out haha.


----------



## wolfgaze (May 12, 2016)

My USPS tracking was also useless while waiting for receipt of my SC5w.... The only status update before being delivered was that it had been picked up from the shipper... No updates since.... Funny thing is that USPS has a feature on their site where you can sign up for tracking updates via email or txt messages.... What updates? I was also a bit annoyed at my local mailman.... I live on a busy main street with a good amount of foot traffic and my mailman was also delivering a large package for my downstairs neighbor (whom I know) as well as my small Zebralight box at the same time.... He merely placed large package on the top step of my front porch stairs with my Zebralight box on top (ripe for the snatching) - but we have a porch that runs the length of the front of the house and he easily could have placed both packages a short distance off to the side and out of view of individuals who would be passing by.... Fortunately I was able to retrieve my package about 15-20 minutes after it was delivered and it wasn't out there for long... Some common sense and consideration would have been welcomed though....


----------



## wolfgaze (May 12, 2016)

Question - what are the risks/concerns regarding *charging* unprotected 18650 cells? I have a Nitecore D4 charger at home...


----------



## snowlover91 (May 13, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Question - what are the risks/concerns regarding *charging* unprotected 18650 cells? I have a Nitecore D4 charger at home...



Never overcharge them above 4.2v and I prefer a slower charger like the Nitecore. I don't worry about them when charging since the Nitecore has the built in overcharging protection. However as a precaution when the batter nears 4.2v I usually check on it periodically. I do this with all my 18650 cells whether protected or unprotected simply as a precaution. I've not had any issues using this method over the past 2+ years with both battery types. 

TA, I haven't noticed a ring like that in mine but it may be there and I just haven't looked close enough. My guess is that it could be something to help align the LED? The MK3 HI is definitely my favorite ZL which is quite impressive considering I have seven different ones (five now, two were given as gifts).


----------



## TA_ls1 (May 13, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> Never overcharge them above 4.2v and I prefer a slower charger like the Nitecore. I don't worry about them when charging since the Nitecore has the built in overcharging protection. However as a precaution when the batter nears 4.2v I usually check on it periodically. I do this with all my 18650 cells whether protected or unprotected simply as a precaution. I've not had any issues using this method over the past 2+ years with both battery types.
> 
> TA, I haven't noticed a ring like that in mine but it may be there and I just haven't looked close enough. My guess is that it could be something to help align the LED? The MK3 HI is definitely my favorite ZL which is quite impressive considering I have seven different ones (five now, two were given as gifts).



Yeah, in looking at it a lot since I got it, the LED chip appears centered, and my pictures probably show that, but the little black ring is visibly off by a hair.


----------



## markr6 (May 13, 2016)

TA_ls1 said:


> Yeah, in looking at it a lot since I got it, the LED chip appears centered, and my pictures probably show that, but the little black ring is visibly off by a hair.



Yes my black circle is off but the LED is centered perfectly. I never noticed that. I'm guessing it's some sort of registration mark for the robot/person putting the LED on the board or lining up with the reflector.


----------



## roger-roger (May 13, 2016)

Anyone replacing an SC600w MK III with a HI?

Btw, I don't see it listed in stock at any stores at the moment.


----------



## ven (May 13, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Question - what are the risks/concerns regarding *charging* unprotected 18650 cells? I have a Nitecore D4 charger at home...




Most at chargers have a spec + or - 0.05v so lowest 4.15 and highest 4.25 is actually in spec! As said ideally you want termination at 4.2v . 

Now I am not saying it's right or to do it, so an example. Over the last couple of years by mistake (user error !) I have charged a pany B to 4.3v and an INR to 4.35v! Wrong setting basically after charging some 4.35v cells(16650's to be exact). No issues at all, may have lost a cycle or two of their life, but if I get 298 or 300....who cares or counts! It's still years of use.......So they are tough cells and can/will take abuse which of course I am not recommending .

The NC charger is a good one, so charge let it finish and terminate, check V for piece of mind and enjoy! Maybe periodically ( every 5 charges, every 10!....what suits you). Just treat the same as protected....with the usual respect


----------



## wolfgaze (May 13, 2016)

Thanks for the replies to my question... I still feel a bit nervous/apprehensive at times about the Lithium-Ion cells and their usage (currently only using 18650/16340 protected cells in 2 of my Olight flashlights)...

Does anyone know if the beam profile on the SC600 is similar to the SC5? Or distinct/different? What I like about the SC5 beam profile is how the hot spot diffuses/blends well with the spill... On other lights, when there is too much of a defined hot spot that sharply contrasts with the spill (I can find it to be distracting on my eyes when shining the light)...


----------



## kj2 (May 13, 2016)

kj2 said:


> Kinda an impulse buy, but I ordered one at the ZL dealer here. Should arrive tomorrow. Will see if I like it.



Package received but the standard version was shipped  there goes the fun..


----------



## snowlover91 (May 13, 2016)

kj2 said:


> Package received but the standard version was shipped  there goes the fun..



The dealer sent you the regular MK3w and not the HI version? Bummer to hear that happened  Hopefully they'll make things right for you! The MK3 HI really is an excellent little light and now my go to ZL.


----------



## kj2 (May 13, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> The dealer sent you the regular MK3w and not the HI version? Bummer to hear that happened  Hopefully they'll make things right for you! The MK3 HI really is an excellent little light and now my go to ZL.



That's what happened indeed.


----------



## markr6 (May 13, 2016)

kj2 said:


> Package received but the standard version was shipped  there goes the fun..



Oooohh that's painful


----------



## recDNA (May 13, 2016)

It's a waste to return it. Just give the MKIII to me and order another HI for yourself. I'm too cheap to actually PAY for an MKIII.


----------



## davepen (May 13, 2016)

Can someone please clear up the battery confusion surrounding this light? Protected? Unprotected? 3400mAh? 3100mAh?

I just got mine in the mail only to find out my batteries don't work with it.

They are branded AW IC and have a red stripe on the label, 18650 3100mAh.


----------



## emarkd (May 13, 2016)

Capacity isn't a factor, only physical size. In short, however, most any flat top unprotected cell will work.


----------



## recDNA (May 13, 2016)

davepen said:


> Can someone please clear up the battery confusion surrounding this light? Protected? Unprotected? 3400mAh? 3100mAh?
> 
> I just got mine in the mail only to find out my batteries don't work with it.
> 
> They are branded AW IC and have a red stripe on the label, 18650 3100mAh.


You should purchase an unprotected NCR18650GA from illumn. If you don't like using unprotected cells you could return your flashlight.


----------



## tops2 (May 14, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Thanks for the replies to my question... I still feel a bit nervous/apprehensive at times about the Lithium-Ion cells and their usage (currently only using 18650/16340 protected cells in 2 of my Olight flashlights)...
> 
> Does anyone know if the beam profile on the SC600 is similar to the SC5? Or distinct/different? What I like about the SC5 beam profile is how the hot spot diffuses/blends well with the spill... On other lights, when there is too much of a defined hot spot that sharply contrasts with the spill (I can find it to be distracting on my eyes when shining the light)...



As I recall from advice here and looking at pictures, it looks like the SC63w may give more similar beam compared to SC5w. But drawback sounds like SC63w holds the highest level pretty short due lack of mass and heat build up.

I also don't like well defined/strong hotspot, but all the raves about the HI version makes it so hard to resist. **Must**resist**. Lol..I'm impatiently awaiting for the hi CRI version that a lot of others are waiting for too.


----------



## KeepingItLight (May 14, 2016)

recDNA said:


> You should purchase an unprotected NCR18650GA from illumn. If you don't like using unprotected cells you could return your flashlight.




This is my recommendation, as well. The Samsung INR18650-30Q is another battery that works great in the new ZebraLights.

ZebraLight described the protection circuitry it builds into the Mk. III. It is better than the protection circuits you get with batteries. 



CelticCross74 said:


> Hey!
> 
> Zebralight actually responded to my email about where they source their parts from! The MkIII actually is mostly made of US sourced parts. This is the response they sent me. Vishay has manufacturing plants on 3 continents and Israel.
> 
> ...


----------



## davepen (May 14, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Capacity isn't a factor, only physical size. In short, however, most any flat top unprotected cell will work.



My batteries are only a millimeter or so longer. When I put them in the light, I could still get the tailcap to screw almost completely down. They're also fully charged. Why wouldn't a slightly longer battery still power the light? Assuming the light is not defective, that is...


----------



## kj2 (May 14, 2016)

davepen said:


> .. almost completely down. ...



That's why. The electronic path isn't complete. The battery tube needs so contact the pcb-board in the tailcap.


----------



## davepen (May 14, 2016)

kj2 said:


> That's why. The electronic path isn't complete. The battery tube needs so contact the pcb-board in the tailcap.



Isn't contact with any of the threads completing the circuit?


----------



## kj2 (May 14, 2016)

davepen said:


> Isn't contact with any of the threads completing the circuit?



No, because the threads are anodized.


----------



## Anders (May 14, 2016)

Hi there.
I ordered this light directly from zebralight.com

I also ordered two of the *NCR18650GA *from http://eu.nkon.nl.

The two cells came a couple a days ago and I saw on the web page at nkon that they won't recommend these cells in this light?
So I ordered the one they recommended instead....LG INR18650 3500mAh

This is the message from this site: "*This light needs batteries of 65mm long, it does not work with protected batteries (like from Keeppower, EagleTac or Enerpower) because these are too long. Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit. "

*http://eu.nkon.nl/zebralight-flashlights/zebralight-sc600-mk3-xhp35-nw-high-intesity.html

Is this something you noticed with the NCR18650GA?

Thanks/Anders


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## TheRealSpinner (May 14, 2016)

I actually ran into an interesting issue with my MKIII standard (hadn't received my HI version yet). I tripped and fell with the light in my pocket, and didn't really notice anything until the next evening when I went to actually use the torch… the light would flicker when I shook it. I pulled the battery (I'm using the battery that ZL sells on their site- Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Battery) and noticed 3 little dents in the top of the cell.

Apparently, when I fell, there was enough impact to ram the battery into the pogo springs at the top and dent the cell. What I did to fix it, was grab my knife point and pry up the raised portion. The dents are still there, but it works fine again, with no flickering when I shake it. 😊


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## TheRealSpinner (May 14, 2016)

Since the falling incident, I received the HI version, and tried a fresh Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Battery in it. It works fine. I tried shaking it, and no flicker. I do hear a little rattle, but only when I REALLY shake it.


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## Connor (May 14, 2016)

Anders said:


> This is the message from this site: "*This light needs batteries of 65mm long, it does not work with protected batteries (like from Keeppower, EagleTac or Enerpower) because these are too long. Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit. "
> *



You can safely ignore that message, I have both the Sanyo GAs and the LG MJ1s (2 of each) and they're the same length and both work and fit fine in my Zebralight SC63w (which had the same warning written next to it on the NKON website until recently).


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## Anders (May 14, 2016)

Thanks for the reply TheRealSpinner and Connor.

Was a bit surprised by the message, anyway I'll got four cells to the light now^^

Anders


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## davepen (May 14, 2016)

When you design a light that uses the 18650, it should be compatible with ALL 18650 cells. They need to clarify the crap documentation on their web site, too.

What a pain in the ***.


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## BLUE LED (May 14, 2016)

davepen said:


> When you design a light that uses the 18650, it should be compatible with ALL 18650 cells. They need to clarify the crap documentation on their web site, too.
> 
> What a pain in the ***.



That's why I'm not buying one. I already have Eagletac 18650 3500 mAh 10A and Efest 18650 3100mAh high drain cells; but I can't use either for this light. :shakehead


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## Fireclaw18 (May 14, 2016)

davepen said:


> When you design a light that uses the 18650, it should be compatible with ALL 18650 cells. They need to clarify the crap documentation on their web site, too.
> 
> What a pain in the ***.


They do clarify it on their website.

In the description of the SC600 Mk III from Zebralight's website:

"Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. unprotected, 65.0-65.2 mm long) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package."


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## Connor (May 14, 2016)

davepen said:


> When you design a light that uses the 18650, it should be compatible with ALL 18650 cells. They need to clarify the crap documentation on their web site, too.



What part of


> *"Battery: One 18650 size (i.e. unprotected, 65.0-65.2 mm long) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package." *


didn't you understand? :nana:

They're compatible with basically all unprotected 18650 cells that adhere to spec. Unprotected cells *are *the standard for 18650 cells. 
Also Zebralights are some of the most compact flashlights on the market .. you can't do that if you add an extra centimetre for battery wiggle room.


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## Koam (May 14, 2016)

I'm new to these lights and was wondering if you can use a protected 18650 in this light provided you had a spacer/sleeve/tube to make the connection between the body and end cap. The cap wouldn't screw on all the way so the o-ring wouldn't seal but would the light function? Is there something about the lights electronics that would not allow a protected battery to work? I noticed my Nitecore 18650 does slip into the body of my Zebralight, just a tiny bit tighter than the ZL unprotected batteries.


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## kj2 (May 14, 2016)

Koam said:


> I'm new to these lights and was wondering if you can use a protected 18650 in this light



Simple, no.


----------



## eekazum (May 14, 2016)

Koam said:


> I'm new to these lights and was wondering if you can use a protected 18650 in this light provided you had a spacer/sleeve/tube to make the connection between the body and end cap. The cap wouldn't screw on all the way so the o-ring wouldn't seal but would the light function? Is there something about the lights electronics that would not allow a protected battery to work? I noticed my Nitecore 18650 does slip into the body of my Zebralight, just a tiny bit tighter than the ZL unprotected batteries.



An easier solution would be to scrape off the anodizing on the threads. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the whole point of anodizing threads is to enable the quarter-turn lockout feature.

probably easier than trying to fabricate a spacer to fit the battery and from what I read, the none of the sc600 flavors have significant drain for you to need to lock it out that often. Just need to make sure it doesn't accidentally turn on in your pocket.


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## Koam (May 14, 2016)

So there's nothing about the electronics that would stop a protected 18650 from working, and the light wouldn't be damaged using a protected 18650?

kj2's "no" answer is strictly related to the difference in lengths of the two batteries which I acknowledged in my first post?


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## kj2 (May 14, 2016)

Electronics inside the light have no problems with a protected cell. It's the length that causes the issue. But there are numerous replies about that, so I'm amazed that 'does a protected battery fit/work' is still asked. Plus ZL tells you what to use, so it should be very clear.


----------



## snowlover91 (May 14, 2016)

Koam said:


> So there's nothing about the electronics that would stop a protected 18650 from working, and the light wouldn't be damaged using a protected 18650?
> 
> kj2's "no" answer is strictly related to the difference in lengths of the two batteries which I acknowledged in my first post?



Basically protected 18650 cells are too long, the margin for these is very tight and anything more than 65.2mm long (a protected cell basically) will be too long. I suppose if you want to remove the anodizing on the threads you MIGHT be able to get it to work but you'll lose the waterproofing and ability to lock the light out also. Assuming one could fit and you remove the anodizing, in theory, it would work. You wouldn't be able to screw the tailcap down much at all though. If it were me I would just buy a few unprotected cells or return it to ZL if that's not an option. 


Also someone mentioned tripping and falling with the light. My NCR18650ga cells are a tight fit in both my MK3 HI and SC63w and just the pressure from fully tightening the tailcap causes the positive end to slightly dip with three little indents. It doesn't affect performance at all and no rattle on mine either.


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## kj2 (May 14, 2016)

Removing the ano on the threads still won't make it work. The battery tube needs to touch the 'golden' ring on the pcb board inside the tailcap. If it had a rear clicky, removing ano on the threads would be enough. It's so simple. It needs a unprotected cell!


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## Koam (May 14, 2016)

I understand that the length is the issue and acknowledged it in my first post. I was asking about using some sort of spacer that would allow protected cells to be used as an option. One could take copper wire of the correct gauge (about the thickness of the tube) and wrap it around a battery for correct diameter, making basically a spring that would make the connection allowing one to use protected batteries in a pinch. Yes, you lose the o-ring seal (also acknowledged) but it seems like an easy solution if you really need the light and your unprotected batteries are dead. Am I missing something?


----------



## cp2315 (May 14, 2016)

The answer is probably yes. I had a similar situation with a modded light which probably only take the smallest 16340. Problem was the body tube end does not touch the connection part in the tail cap( the circle around the spring). What I came up was cutting an outer spring of a p60 drop in and inserted half of it into the tail cap. Problem with this solution is maybe you cannot lock out the light by a small turn of the light. You may need a couple of more turns.

and truth is this is a great light, it worth its own battery even it is the only light that can use this battery ( of course not the situation here). and the perfect battery for it can be purchased conveniently with the light. And it is only $8 for a very good cell of 3500 mA. So you really should just buy the battery for convenience and capacity.


----------



## Connor (May 14, 2016)

Koam said:


> I understand that the length is the issue and acknowledged it in my first post. I was asking about using some sort of spacer that would allow protected cells to be used as an option. One could take copper wire of the correct gauge (about the thickness of the tube) and wrap it around a battery for correct diameter, making basically a spring that would make the connection allowing one to use protected batteries in a pinch. Yes, you lose the o-ring seal (also acknowledged) but it seems like an easy solution if you really need the light and your unprotected batteries are dead. Am I missing something?



Yes, that would probably work. The only thing you're possibly missing is that it's really easier and just as safe to use unprotected cells in this light. ;-)


----------



## Koam (May 14, 2016)

Connor said:


> Yes, that would probably work. The only thing you're possibly missing is that it's really easier and just as safe to use unprotected cells in this light. ;-)



And that's why I bought unprotected batteries from ZL when I bought my light. I was just curious, you know... In case of Zombies or killer Shrews.


----------



## snowlover91 (May 14, 2016)

kj2 said:


> Removing the ano on the threads still won't make it work. The battery tube needs to touch the 'golden' ring on the pcb board inside the tailcap. If it had a rear clicky, removing ano on the threads would be enough. It's so simple. It needs a unprotected cell!



Ah gotcha, I thought the removal of the ano might do it but I'm still learning about electrical contacts on flashlights. Good to know! I will say as others mentioned that the 18650ga cells work fine in this light and don't rattle in mine.


----------



## davepen (May 14, 2016)

Connor said:


> What part of
> didn't you understand? :nana:
> 
> They're compatible with basically all unprotected 18650 cells that adhere to spec. Unprotected cells *are *the standard for 18650 cells.
> ...



How about:



> *"Battery: One unprotected 18650 size (i.e. 65.0-65.2 mm long), 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable. **This light does NOT support longer, protected cells. **Batteries are not included in the package."*


*

*Since I write web sites for a living, I'd be happy with that.


----------



## wolfgaze (May 14, 2016)

How does the light react when the battery voltage drains and can no longer support the higher output modes? 

Asking because the only other Li-ion compatible lights I have experince with are my Olight S1 & S2 Batons... With these the light will power on the higher output modes but immediately shut off... 

Thanks...


----------



## Connor (May 14, 2016)

davepen said:


> How about:
> *
> *Since I write web sites for a living, I'd be happy with that.




But .. it's right there on the ZL website: 
http://www.zebralight.com/SC600w-Mk...Neutral-White-High-Intensity-XHP35_p_179.html
-Main Features and Specifications
-Battery

:candle:


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## snowlover91 (May 14, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> How does the light react when the battery voltage drains and can no longer support the higher output modes?
> 
> Asking because the only other Li-ion compatible lights I have experince with are my Olight S1 & S2 Batons... With these the light will power on the higher output modes but immediately shut off...
> 
> Thanks...



Thats one of my favorite features of the ZL.. Instead of immediately shutting off it will step down to a much lower level. This serves two purposes, it lets you know it's time to recharge the battery while also giving you a few mins of usable light, at reduced output, before stepping down again. For example if you're using one of the high modes it usually will step down to medium and after a few minutes down again to a lower medium or moonlight mode, it's hard to tell which. I've never run my light long after this point so I'm not sure at what point it would cut off due to the over discharge protection but I did get about 3-4 minutes at least when I first discovered it by accident.


----------



## KeepingItLight (May 14, 2016)

Koam said:


> So there's nothing about the electronics that would stop a protected 18650 from working, and the light wouldn't be damaged using a protected 18650?



Note that the protection circuits built into the *ZebraLight SC600 Mk. III HI* are _better_ than the protection circuits in a protected battery. Some of the specific components used in the SC600 Mk. III HI are described by ZebraLight in this post.

Note, as well, that protected batteries are not all equal. The Panasonic NCR18650B battery, for instance, has its maximum continuous discharge current spec'ed at 4.875 amps by its manufacturer. In its brightest mode, the SC600 Mk. III HI probably pulls at least that much current or more. 

ZebraLight has said that using an unprotected Pany "B" is "okay" in the SC600 Mk. III HI. That does not mean, however, it will give you the best performance possible. If you compare the discharge curve of the "B" with for those of medium-draw batteries such as the Panasonic NCR18650GA (10-amp continuous discharge) or the Samsung INR18650-30Q (15-amp continuous discharge), you will see that voltage sags significantly more in the "B."

The extra headroom given by the "GA" and the "30Q" is nice to have. IR (internal resistance) in a Li-ion battery increases as a battery ages. When that happens, voltage sag (at moderate and high currents) also increases. Using the Pany "B" you don't have any headroom to spare. With the "GA" or the "30Q," you do.

When you consider these things, it is not a surprise that ZebraLight is recommending the "GA."




wolfgaze said:


> How does the light react when the battery voltage drains and can no longer support the higher output modes?
> 
> Asking because the only other Li-ion compatible lights I have experince with are my Olight S1 & S2 Batons... With these the light will power on the higher output modes but immediately shut off...



You get plenty of warning with a ZebraLight. This flashlight, and other ZebraLight models, as well, use forced step-downs as battery voltage declines. First, High steps down to Medium. About 10 or 15 minutes later, Medium steps down to low. After another period, which I believe is longer than 15 minutes, the final step-down from Low turns off the flashlight. 

This is a "low-voltage" cutoff that turns off the flashlight completely (except for a minuscule standby current). This is the cutoff circuit that ZebraLight describes as using better components than the same cutoff circuit in a protected battery.




davepen said:


> How about:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I agree with your approach. I think ZebraLight is too cagey with the language it uses.


----------



## wolfgaze (May 15, 2016)

Thank you for the responses SnowLover and KeepingItLight....


----------



## recDNA (May 15, 2016)

Koam said:


> So there's nothing about the electronics that would stop a protected 18650 from working, and the light wouldn't be damaged using a protected 18650?
> 
> kj2's "no" answer is strictly related to the difference in lengths of the two batteries which I acknowledged in my first post?


The protection circuit on most protected 18650 would trip on H1 due to high current draw. Only a new high output protected cell would work. Must be able to handle steady 6 amps at least.


----------



## davepen (May 15, 2016)

KeepingItLight said:


> I agree with your approach. I think ZebraLight is too cagey with the language it uses.



At least they used "i.e." correctly.


----------



## LimuHead (May 16, 2016)

My MKIII HI showed up last Friday! 

It's pretty much spot on for what I was expecting after reading the reviews here on CPF and around the web.

I wanted a throwy light to complement the superior flood of my H602w, and the wonderfully wide, but not so throwy hot-spot of my SC63w. The MKIII HI is the perfect light to fill this niche. 

Me likey very much! 

Now I'm trying to decide where it will ride in my EDC. It will most likely either ride in my LFP, or hang out in the front panel of my sling pack. Either way it's coming with me. 

Aldon


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## TheRealSpinner (May 16, 2016)

LimuHead said:


> My MKIII HI showed up last Friday!
> 
> It's pretty much spot on for what I was expecting after reading the reviews here on CPF and around the web.
> 
> ...



Hah! That's exactly why I ordered mine. :twothumbs I carry my H602w in my bag (when it's not on my head), along with the SC600w MKIII HI. The SC63w lives in my front left pocket, next to my wallet. I'm looking into making a clip like this one I found in another thread:


gunga said:


> Thanks!
> 
> It's this one:
> 
> ...


----------



## wolfgaze (May 16, 2016)

Has anyone tried carrying this light with a *Maxpedition 4" Flashlight Sheath*??? Wondering about the fit... Head diaeter of the SC600 is 1.2 inches, the diameter of the sheath is *1.1* inches (but I'm not sure if it will elastically expand)... 

http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/MX1430B/Maxpedition-1430B-4-inch-Flashlight-Sheath-Black


----------



## Equitymind (May 16, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Has anyone tried carrying this light with a *Maxpedition 4" Flashlight Sheath*??? Wondering about the fit... Head diaeter of the SC600 is 1.2 inches, the diameter of the sheath is *1.1* inches (but I'm not sure if it will elastically expand)...
> 
> http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/MX1430B/Maxpedition-1430B-4-inch-Flashlight-Sheath-Black



YES it does. I have the Maxpedition 4" sheath and it is an absolute perfect fit for the ZL SC600 series.


----------



## wolfgaze (May 16, 2016)

Equitymind said:


> YES it does. I have the Maxpedition 4" sheath and it is an absolute perfect fit for the ZL SC600 series.



Great to hear... Thank you!

Do you place the flashlight in your sheath with the head facing upward or tail up?


----------



## cp2315 (May 16, 2016)

Finally got mine today. It is one nice little light with a pack of power! Very happy with it. 
The button is a lot softer than sc600 mark I. I like this change.


----------



## Equitymind (May 17, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Great to hear... Thank you!
> 
> Do you place the flashlight in your sheath with the head facing upward or tail up?



I normally place it with the head facing upward but I just tried it head inserted first (facing downwards) and it fits either way. Clarification, this is for the ZL SC600 Mk III Series. I have no idea if it fits the original SC600 Series.


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## wolfgaze (May 17, 2016)

One of the better SC600 MK3 HI reviews and which has lots of beamshots:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=FGuSiwIoOU0

*(EDIT: I see this review was already posted earlier in the thread by the Reviewer himself)*


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## GunnarGG (May 17, 2016)

roger-roger said:


> Anyone replacing an SC600w MK III with a HI?
> 
> Btw, I don't see it listed in stock at any stores at the moment.




I did.

First got the SC600w MkIII but for me it had to bright spill.
With that beam profile I didn't like it in the higher levels and therefor it didn't ad much to me compared to my SC52w and my SC62d (with a more throwy beam).
I now have the HI version and think it's great. I can use it on max without getting to blinded by a super bright foreground and it gives pretty good throw.
For almost all my use my SC52w and SC62d is enough, usually don't even use hi on them but the SC600w MkIII HI is fun.


Haven't seen anything about "accidental on" problems.
In the earlier SC models that was a common problem, I have a SC30 that I always needed to lockout the tailcap on.
On the newer lights with more recessed switch never had that problem (well maybe once or twice in a couple of years).
But yesterday walking around with the new SC600 in my jacket pocket I put my hand in the pocket and it was really warm with the light on.
The battery tester still showed 4 blinks so it hadn't been on to long I'll guess.

When comparing to my SC52 and SC62 the SC600 had the switch that needed least pressure to activate.
No big difference but maybe the reason it switched on in my pocket. :thinking:


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## legendofzelda (May 17, 2016)

gunnar do you have any beamshot comparisons of the sc600w mkIII vs SC52w vs SC62D?




GunnarGG said:


> I did.
> 
> First got the SC600w MkIII but for me it had to bright spill.
> With that beam profile I didn't like it in the higher levels and therefor it didn't ad much to me compared to my SC52w and my SC62d (with a more throwy beam).
> ...


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## roger-roger (May 17, 2016)

GunnarGG said:


> I did.
> 
> First got the SC600w MkIII but for me it had to bright spill.
> With that beam profile I didn't like it in the higher levels and therefor it didn't ad much to me compared to my SC52w and my SC62d (with a more throwy beam).
> I now have the HI version and think it's great. I can use it on max without getting to blinded by a super bright foreground and it gives pretty good throw. ....




Great comments, observations. With my (second try) forth ZL coming in, I'm close to switching from experimentation to user-mode. However I m-i-i-i-ght have to grant an audition for the SC600 HI. _:O)_


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## GunnarGG (May 18, 2016)

legendofzelda said:


> gunnar do you have any beamshot comparisons of the sc600w mkIII vs SC52w vs SC62D?



Sorry, no beamshots. At least not at the moment.

I do not have the SC600w MkIII anymore, have the HI version now.
IIRC the beam looked about the same as SC52w but of course brighter on the high modes.
The HI version looks pretty close to the SC62d in beamprofile.
The 62d have a LED that is smaller than the one that the w and coolwhite have and therefor a tighter and brighter hotspot.

I did a little test yesterday.
With the lux meter in my phone I measured the intensity of the center of the hotspot and then about halfway out in the spill.
On my SC52w the lux of the spill was about 13% of the center lux.
On the SC62d it was 5% and on the SC600w MkIII HI it was 3%

That would give that if I use brightness levels on the SC52w and the SC600w MkIII HI that gives an equally bright foreground (from the spill), then the hotspot of the SC600 HI is about 4 times as bright as the SC52, and the throw then about the double.

Hope it makes sense.


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## legendofzelda (May 18, 2016)

would love to see beamshots of your sc600 HI


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## eekazum (May 19, 2016)

Just got my hi this morning, charged up the bat and am currently playing with it.

First things first, this is my real first neutral white light and I'm not really liking it. The tint looks way too orange and gives me the impression I've got cardboard walls. My walls were painted some off-gray color so that doesn't help but all this talk about CRI and making things look more alive... I'm not getting it.

In all fairness, I have grown up under the light of cool white fluorescent lights so perhaps 6500k is my "normal" as opposed to most others who have fond memories of bedtime stories under incandescent or even candle lighting. I know I've had this argument with past roommates who complain my room is too bright as I complain that they keep the dining room too dark and orange and the sleepiness kills my appetite.

Whatever it is, this orange light really isn't doing it for me.

Other than that, my other complaint is that the light does get hot faster than the mh20. I didn't do a scientific assessment on how many degrees and how much faster than the mh20 but I guess I was expecting something more from the praises I read about regarding thermal management in this light. The funny thing is, the whole light warms up as opposed to just the head on the mh20. I know I read that somewhere also and yes that speaks volumes about the engineering that went into this light. In hindsight, (and before the flaming starts, please keep in mind I'm still quite a newb at flashlights) I suppose the engineers of ALL these lights are smart enough to not let their product overheat to the point where they damage themselves. My mind is still in the era of those hondas where the solder on the main fuel relay would melt and resolder themselves after decades of use.

OKAY, now, after all this complaining, I still think this is an awesome light.

There UI is definitely not as cryptic as I originally thought it was. Seriously, that review by mhanlen was probably the best I've seen of this light and he and some others have explained it in so may other ways too but its not that hard once you have it in your hand  It's much better than having to scroll through a billion different brightnesses and having a direct shortcut to high, med, and low is all I really ever need.

As for size, it is definitely smaller than the mh20 and it feels somewhat more solid/balanced in my hand than the mh20. Looking at the construction of the mk3 hi, it is obvious that they looked at every possible angle and made the light as small as physically possible for an 18650 light. I seriously wonder how thin that wall on the tailcap is. Also, much care was taken to make sure the mk3 hi doesn't accidentally turn on. The button is nested deep in the head just enough to prevent anything foreign from turning it on.

Anyhow, just sharing my thoughts on my new light. Hopefully, this orangy tint is just a phase or its something that shows it's true meaning outdoors more than the little 120 sqft room i'm renting.


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## eekazum (May 19, 2016)

Off topic but I just noticed the light on my new galaxy s7 is the same neutral (read "orange") tint as the sc600 mk3 hi. My s4 light looks so much brighter!

WTF!?!? The future looks so peachy pale! When did i get sucked out of my cool white dimension??


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## swan (May 19, 2016)

eekazum said:


> Off topic but I just noticed the light on my new galaxy s7 is the same neutral (read "orange") tint as the sc600 mk3 hi. My s4 light looks so much brighter!
> 
> WTF!?!? The future looks so peachy pale! When did i get sucked out of my cool white dimension??



Sorry your disappointed with the tint, i have the SC600MK 111 cw 5700k model and it is the the warmest tint that i have that is labelled as a cool white. I would describe it as a neutral tint.

I did not want the hi intensity mk111 when i saw it was 4500k tint as this is way to warm for me and makes everything look a weird yellow/ orange brown color. I think a lot of people might be surprised and disappointed that the w models do not emit a white tint.

To get it cranking adjust the pid controller to +5 degrees and it will really warm up then and the lumen output wont dive so quickly- my one gets really warm on H1, almost uncomfortable.


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## Connor (May 19, 2016)

eekazum said:


> First things first, this is my real first neutral white light and I'm not really liking it. The tint looks way too orange and gives me the impression I've got cardboard walls. My walls were painted some off-gray color so that doesn't help but all this talk about CRI and making things look more alive... I'm not getting it.




Neutral white always looks worse on white walls (and gray walls too apparently). 
To really appreciate the neutral tint compare the light with a cold white LED outside in the woods at night. Note the difference in red/brownish colours especially.


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## recDNA (May 19, 2016)

eekazum said:


> Just got my hi this morning, charged up the bat and am currently playing with it.
> 
> First things first, this is my real first neutral white light and I'm not really liking it. The tint looks way too orange and gives me the impression I've got cardboard walls. My walls were painted some off-gray color so that doesn't help but all this talk about CRI and making things look more alive... I'm not getting it.
> 
> ...


Your model is neutral not HI CRI. I would not expect great color rendition. A HI CRI model is supposedly coming out this fall.


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## roger-roger (May 19, 2016)

eekazum said:


> In all fairness, I have grown up under the light of cool white fluorescent lights so perhaps 6500k is my "normal" as opposed to most others who have fond memories of bedtime stories under incandescent or even candle lighting. I know I've had this argument with past roommates who complain my room is too bright as I complain that they keep the dining room too dark and orange and the sleepiness kills my appetite.
> 
> Whatever it is, this orange light really isn't doing it for me.




Good observations. This is why the 600 PLUS will come out with a frosted lens as opposed to the standard configuration.


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## romteb (May 19, 2016)

eekazum said:


> Off topic but I just noticed the light on my new galaxy s7 is the same neutral (read "orange") tint as the sc600 mk3 hi. My s4 light looks so much brighter!
> 
> WTF!?!? The future looks so peachy pale! When did i get sucked out of my cool white dimension??




Everybody looks dead when lit by cool white :sick2:, that's why.


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2016)

Good observations eekazum, thanks for sharing! If you're used to the cool white then the neutral white of these will take a little getting used to. Most describe it as a golden brown or tan color for the warmer tints, if it's a good one. Where you'll really see the difference is with color rendition. Take the light outside and a cool white flashlight for comparison. Shine the cool white on the leaves, trees, etc and then shine the MK3 HI on the same things. You'll notice the colors will be much more vibrant and standout better rather than being "washed out" like cool white usually does.


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## tops2 (May 19, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> Good observations eekazum, thanks for sharing! If you're used to the cool white then the neutral white of these will take a little getting used to. Most describe it as a golden brown or tan color for the warmer tints, if it's a good one. Where you'll really see the difference is with color rendition. Take the light outside and a cool white flashlight for comparison. Shine the cool white on the leaves, trees, etc and then shine the MK3 HI on the same things. You'll notice the colors will be much more vibrant and standout better rather than being "washed out" like cool white usually does.



@eekazum:
Maybe use the MK3 HI for 5-10 minutes first and have your eyes adjust to the neutral white, then do the comparison with a cool white light?

Personally, if I use a cool white first, then neutral white second, the neutral white always looks super yellow to my eyes. If I start with neutral white first, then cool white usually looks too blue or "washed out".


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## wolfgaze (May 19, 2016)

Anyone know if the rumored Plus / High CRI model will be utilizing a different emitter? How is a High CRI rating achieved exactly? Do High CRI lights typically display a similar tint color/profile? (I've never owned one).... 

As you might be able to tell I am not well-informed about these technical matters but trying to learn more.


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## tops2 (May 19, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Anyone know if the rumored Plus / High CRI model will be utilizing a different emitter? How is a High CRI rating achieved exactly? Do High CRI lights typically display a similar tint color/profile? (I've never owned one)....
> 
> As you might be able to tell I am not well-informed about these technical matters but trying to learn more.



On Zebralight's site, there's a link to compare models and its shows the Plus version having XHP50 led. The HI version has XPH35 HI led. The other MKIII and SC63(w) have the XPH35 led.

The only 2 high CRI lights I have are the cheap BLF 348 (more "neutral/white" light) and Astrolux A01 (more "yellow-ish" light).
From what I see, its just the colors of what you shine the light on will stand out more and look more like "under sunlight"/during daytime. My low CRI lights, some colors blend in more and some colors don't like what you expect. Some of my lights makes things look bluish or greenish. But my 2 hi CRI lights (especially the BLF 348) just makes objects look like the color I see during daytime.

Before I was also wondering why people love hi CRI lights too. Then I ended up buying the BLF 348 (cause its so cheap) just to see..and boy was I blown away. It made my other lights "ugly". While at home, I've basically stopped using all my other lights and mostly use just the BLF 348.

Not sure if I'm making you more confused or being clear... There's some hi CRI threads so maybe you can look at those for comparison pictures.


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## wolfgaze (May 19, 2016)

tops2 said:


> On Zebralight's site, there's a link to compare models and its shows the Plus version having XHP50 led. The HI version has XPH35 HI led. The other MKIII and SC63(w) have the XPH35 led.
> 
> The only 2 high CRI lights I have are the cheap BLF 348 (more "neutral/white" light) and Astrolux A01 (more "yellow-ish" light).
> From what I see, its just the colors of what you shine the light on will stand out more and look more like "under sunlight"/during daytime. My low CRI lights, some colors blend in more and some colors don't like what you expect. Some of my lights makes things look bluish or greenish. But my 2 hi CRI lights (especially the BLF 348) just makes objects look like the color I see during daytime.
> ...



I appreciate the response Tops2... Thanks for the information about the LED for the Plus model...

I too find myself being pulled in the direction of high CRI lights. While I understand my recently acquired SC5w doesn't have a higher end rating (compared to what's available out there), I immediately noticed how much better the color-rending was with the (SC5w) beam profile when compared to my previous cool-white lights (like the Olight S1/S2)... It's very pleasing to my eyes and I'm finding newfound enjoyment just from shining the light around outside on the natural colored surfaces (like vegetation)... This is why I'm now quite interested in this Plus model in the works... I also happen to enjoy a floody beam profile...


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## snowlover91 (May 19, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> I appreciate the response Tops2... Thanks for the information about the LED for the Plus model...
> 
> I too find myself being pulled in the direction of high CRI lights. While I understand my recently acquired SC5w doesn't have a higher end rating (compared to what's available out there), I immediately noticed how much better the color-rending was with the (SC5w) beam profile when compared to my previous cool-white lights (like the Olight S1/S2)... It's very pleasing to my eyes and I'm finding newfound enjoyment just from shining the light around outside on the natural colored surfaces (like vegetation)... This is why I'm now quite interested in this Plus model in the works... I also happen to enjoy a floody beam profile...



You might also enjoy the SC5fd model, it has a nice neutral tint and is floody with a cri of 83-85. The lumen output and runtime is a little lower due to the different led used but the results are impressive for a floody little light. Makes a great indoor, around the house light. In fact my wife took mine and uses it all the time. She reads with it at night or in the car, keeps it in her purse and loves using it because of the floody profile. It's a great close range light too because you don't have the blinding hotspot but instead a nice, even light. I expect the MK3 Plus model will be similar but with even higher cri, better output and runtimes which will be the perfect light imo. Demand will be off the charts for it.


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## wolfgaze (May 19, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> You might also enjoy the SC5fd model, it has a nice neutral tint and is floody with a cri of 83-85. The lumen output and runtime is a little lower due to the different led used but the results are impressive for a floody little light. Makes a great indoor, around the house light. In fact my wife took mine and uses it all the time. She reads with it at night or in the car, keeps it in her purse and loves using it because of the floody profile. It's a great close range light too because you don't have the blinding hotspot but instead a nice, even light. I expect the MK3 Plus model will be similar but with even higher cri, better output and runtimes which will be the perfect light imo. Demand will be off the charts for it.



Thanks for the suggestion/recommendation, Snowlover...


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## recDNA (May 19, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Anyone know if the rumored Plus / High CRI model will be utilizing a different emitter? How is a High CRI rating achieved exactly? Do High CRI lights typically display a similar tint color/profile? (I've never owned one)....
> 
> As you might be able to tell I am not well-informed about these technical matters but trying to learn more.


Not all HI CRI led have same tint. 5000k is the tint of sunlight at noon. Some HI CRI are 5000k. They are my favorite. Many users here prefer 4000k. It is yellower or oranger. There are also HI CRI lights at 3000k. Those are similar to incandescent. I'm with you and prefer cooler tint HI CRI. My favorite is 5000k-5500k. The most common HI CRI LED available. In flashlights now are Nichia 219b. The tint of this ranges between 4000k - 5000k. The new proposed HI CRI Zebralight uses an XHP-50. I have no idea what its tint will be.


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## wolfgaze (May 19, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Not all HI CRI led have same tint. 5000k is the tint of sunlight at noon. Some HI CRI are 5000k. They are my favorite. Many users here prefer 4000k. It is yellower or oranger. There are also HI CRI lights at 3000k. Those are similar to incandescent. I'm with you and prefer cooler tint HI CRI. My favorite is 5000k-5500k. The most common HI CRI LED available. In flashlights now are Nichia 219b. The tint of this ranges between 4000k - 5000k. The new proposed HI CRI Zebralight uses an XHP-50. I have no idea what its tint will be.



Thanks for the informative post/reply....


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## snowlover91 (May 20, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Not all HI CRI led have same tint. 5000k is the tint of sunlight at noon. Some HI CRI are 5000k. They are my favorite. Many users here prefer 4000k. It is yellower or oranger. There are also HI CRI lights at 3000k. Those are similar to incandescent. I'm with you and prefer cooler tint HI CRI. My favorite is 5000k-5500k. The most common HI CRI LED available. In flashlights now are Nichia 219b. The tint of this ranges between 4000k - 5000k. The new proposed HI CRI Zebralight uses an XHP-50. I have no idea what its tint will be.



According to the spec sheet on ZL's website it will be 5000k and 93-95cri with the XHP50 emitter.


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## twistedraven (May 20, 2016)

Yes, but we still don't know its tint even though we know its CRI and CCT values. It could still have the same greenish/yellowish cast that many other Crees have (even the high CRI ones)


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## markr6 (May 20, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> I expect the MK3 Plus model will be similar but with even higher cri, better output and runtimes which will be the perfect light imo. Demand will be off the charts for it.



Holy grail!! Trying not to get my hopes up


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## markr6 (May 20, 2016)

recDNA said:


> Not all HI CRI led have same tint. 5000k is the tint of sunlight at noon. Some HI CRI are 5000k. They are my favorite. Many users here prefer 4000k. It is yellower or oranger. There are also HI CRI lights at 3000k. Those are similar to incandescent. I'm with you and prefer cooler tint HI CRI. My favorite is 5000k-5500k. The most common HI CRI LED available. In flashlights now are Nichia 219b. The tint of this ranges between 4000k - 5000k. The new proposed HI CRI Zebralight uses an XHP-50. I have no idea what its tint will be.



ZL lists the PLUS as being 5000K. I'm glad since that is a nice balance between warm and cool. On all the 5000K flashlights I've seen, this is a nice tint as well. Not to be confused with 5000K LED lightbulbs which are BLUE. Not all "5000K" is the same; lots of variations in the actual tint unfortunately.


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## KeepingItLight (May 20, 2016)

+1 on the *BLF-348*. For around $7 USD, you can try out a Nichia 219B emitter that has a CCT of 5000K and a CRI of 90 Ra. The discount code is public at the BLF web site. 

The BLF-348 is a sleek, 1xAAA, single-mode, stainless-steel flashlight that uses a reverse-clicky tail switch. Output for the single-mode flashlight is around 42 lumens. The beam is all flood. The hot-spot is indistinct, and has very soft edges. Makes a fine light for indoor use and close work.

One easy way to compare high-CRI flashlights with others is to shine them at a lightly colored wood surface, such as oak furniture or flooring. I like to test CRI by shining my flashlights at the oak doors in my home. When I compared the *BLF-348* against my *ZebraLight SC62w*, the BLF-348 was the hands-down winner as far as color rendition goes. My cool-white *ThorFire C8* fared even worse than the ZebraLight. 

Don't get me wrong, I love the C8, especially the new *ThorFire C8s*. It is a good medium thrower. Its color rendition, however, leaves something to be desired.

I also like *Astrolux A01*. It is a compact, 3-mode, 1xAAA twisty. Its Nichia 219B emitter has a CCT of 4000K and a CRI of 92 Ra. Lately, I have been EDC'ing mine fairly often. Its small size makes it a good flashlight for pocket carry.

These two high-CRI flashlights have converted me into a high-CRI fanatic. Except for specialized throwers, there is no real reason not to get a high-CRI emitter. As long as you are spending $50 to $100 for a flashlight anyway, why not insist on high CRI?

That's the main reason I am sitting out on the *ZebraLight SC63w* and the *ZebraLight SC600w Mk. III*. 

Along with everyone else, I am hoping that the *ZebraLight SC600Fd Mk. III Plus* will be the perfect combination of compact size, high output, and high CRI.


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## wolfgaze (May 20, 2016)

Is that *Compare All Models* link on the ZL website functioning correctly for everyone else? I was trying to access it the other day and the day and keep getting some type of google documents error page... I'm just curious if the issue is on my end or with the ZL website...


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## Wolf3D (May 20, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Is that *Compare All Models* link on the ZL website functioning correctly for everyone else? I was trying to access it the other day and the day and keep getting some type of google documents error page... I'm just curious if the issue is on my end or with the ZL website...



You "have" to browse that page via a private windows. It will work!


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## tops2 (May 21, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Is that *Compare All Models* link on the ZL website functioning correctly for everyone else? I was trying to access it the other day and the day and keep getting some type of google documents error page... I'm just curious if the issue is on my end or with the ZL website...



For some reason that link never works in Chrome for me (unless my extensions are causing problems). I use IE/Edge browsers to open that link...

But maybe I should try Chrome's private browsing.


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## oKtosiTe (May 21, 2016)

tops2 said:


> For some reason that link never works in Chrome for me (unless my extensions are causing problems). I use IE/Edge browsers to open that link...
> 
> But maybe I should try Chrome's private browsing.


It should work in Chrome's incognito mode. Does for me.


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## davepen (May 21, 2016)

Okay. After bitching mightily about this light and it's batteries, I've received my two unprotected cells from ZL.

I put one in the charger for a bit and then in the light.

All I can say is this light is extraordinary (in my experience anyway). I have a whole drawer of SureFire's and none of them even comes close to the output of this light. The brightest SureFire I own is probably my M4 Devastator with an MN61 and this light just blows it away.

Amazing light for just a hundred bucks.


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## kellyglanzer (May 24, 2016)

3 weeks on back order and 6 weeks to arrive but it showed up safe today. Tried every battery I own to find one the right length and found a vtc5 with a blob of solder is the right length. Lol
Wow. This one was worth waiting for. This thing rocks. Love it.


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## snowlover91 (May 24, 2016)

Great pics thanks for sharing those! Is that your first ZL? How is the tint on yours? I would recommend getting a few 18650ga cells if you can, they work great in this light and are fairly cheap too.


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## kellyglanzer (May 25, 2016)

snowlover91 said:


> Great pics thanks for sharing those! Is that your first ZL? How is the tint on yours? I would recommend getting a few 18650ga cells if you can, they work great in this light and are fairly cheap too.


Yep. First ZL and I'm super impressed. Might need to try another.


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## wolfgaze (May 25, 2016)

Those are nice photos... Especially the first one...

I'm holding out for the PLUS model... But yeah, after I got the SC5w (first ZL and which I love), I definitely had the feeling that I need to check out more offerings from this company... I'm still not a huge fan of the aesthetic appearance of the lights - but build quality, design (UI), and performance is excellent and that's clearly what's most important...


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## snowlover91 (May 25, 2016)

kellyglanzer said:


> Yep. First ZL and I'm super impressed. *Might need to try another.*



Haha this is how it starts with ZL, you try one and before you know it you have 5 or 6 of their lights! I have to say the HI is definitely my favorite for now. It blends good throw with a nice spill while also have excellent tint. Add in the UI and good thermal management, compact size and you have a winner. If you do try another one the SC63w is a good EDC option if you're looking for a smaller light for EDC use and the SC5 series is a good choice if you want a single AA light that does 500+ lumens.


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## tops2 (May 25, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> Those are nice photos... Especially the first one...
> 
> I'm holding out for the PLUS model... But yeah, after I got the SC5w (first ZL and which I love), *I definitely had the feeling that I need to check out more offerings from this company*... I'm still not a huge fan of the aesthetic appearance of the lights - but build quality, design (UI), and performance is excellent and that's clearly what's most important...



Lol! Aside from the Plus, eventually I want to get a Zebralight headlamp. I really just want to get a few good lights instead of many decent/mediocre lights, but hard soooo hard to resist! Almost bought a few other flashlights and headlamps in the past weeks..but must..resist.. Maybe I should stop visiting CPF until the Plus version comes out! (yeah right...) :nana:


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## PeterRamish (Aug 8, 2016)

Connor said:


> But .. it's right there on the ZL website:
> http://www.zebralight.com/SC600w-Mk...Neutral-White-High-Intensity-XHP35_p_179.html
> -Main Features and Specifications
> -Battery
> ...





I think the readers and some of the responders on this battery issue would do well to consider that the issue might not be with Zebralight, but, rather with the battery industry that seems to not have a precise specification for the so-called “18650” battery and has allowed sloppy “add-on” of so-called “protection caps”, which, as Zebralight engineers point out, are of questionable benefit and questionable engineering.


For a thought experiment on this realize that modern engineering practice is going the route of tight integration of parts into the overall design goals. You see this everywhere in current design practice: For example: my Toyota Prius has an engineering specification for its tires that the tire manufacturer must conform to. A big part of the fuel economy of the Prius is tightly tied to its tires. A high end Sony Digital Camera requires a NP-FW50 battery. I have a drawer full of those batteries, some OEM Sony parts but many from a collection of China knock off factories. My dial caliber does not lie: I measure their length tip to terminal to be exactly 45mm within just error of measurement. They all conform within a .001”. Look at the cell phone in your pocket right at this moment. Where would the designers of this device be if the batteries for it were +- 3 or 4 mm? 


I think Zebralight, and their obviously high caliber design team is on the right track: A precise spec that they can design to. That is how you get high performance products, there is no other way to proceed. The alternative is “one size fits all”, and that, my friends, is not the path to success. Since there doesn’t seem to a real spec in the battery industry then I admire Zebralights guts in this matter. They have bit off the task of approaching the manufacture of a tightly integrated design into a spec that really isn’t there, and then trusting their high-end customers to understand this and get batteries that meet the spec for their product. 


So you need three things to make owing a MkIII work: 1.)A dial caliper. 2.) Batteries that are within spec. 3.) The wonderfully engineered light itself. I see nothing wrong with that. When I go to the tire shop for a fresh set of threads and the guy tells me ‘oh it’s just a Toyota any old tires will do”, I will know better and can educate him about the subject matter at hand. 


As poster Conner point out: The spec is on the Zebralight website. That’s the spec. End of Story.


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## sidecross (Aug 8, 2016)

PeterRamish said:


> I think the readers and some of the responders on this battery issue would do well to consider that the issue might not be with Zebralight, but, rather with the battery industry that seems to not have a precise specification for the so-called “18650” battery and has allowed sloppy “add-on” of so-called “protection caps”, which, as Zebralight engineers point out, are of questionable benefit and questionable engineering.
> 
> 
> For a thought experiment on this realize that modern engineering practice is going the route of tight integration of parts into the overall design goals. You see this everywhere in current design practice: For example: my Toyota Prius has an engineering specification for its tires that the tire manufacturer must conform to. A big part of the fuel economy of the Prius is tightly tied to its tires. A high end Sony Digital Camera requires a NP-FW50 battery. I have a drawer full of those batteries, some OEM Sony parts but many from a collection of China knock off factories. My dial caliber does not lie: I measure their length tip to terminal to be exactly 45mm within just error of measurement. They all conform within a .001”. Look at the cell phone in your pocket right at this moment. Where would the designers of this device be if the batteries for it were +- 3 or 4 mm?
> ...




+1

Bingo!


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## CelticCross74 (Aug 8, 2016)

for those unaware of the battery issue get an unprotected Sanyo NCR18650GA ZL sells them on their site they fit perfectly.


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## Boots45acp (Sep 7, 2016)

Yippee
Mine is on the way.
Shipped today, will receive it tomorrow.
Found one in stock yesterday at a USA Dealer- immediately hit the "buy it" button.
Dealer showed only 1 available.
A couple LG MJ1's are charging......
Pretty excited about this one.


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## jonnyfgroove (Sep 7, 2016)

Boots45acp said:


> Yippee
> Mine is on the way.
> Shipped today, will receive it tomorrow.
> Found one in stock yesterday at a USA Dealer- immediately hit the "buy it" button.
> ...



You should be excited, the SC600 MK III is an amazing, useful piece of gear. It was this thread that originally got me interested and I've not regretted the purchase for a second.


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## sidecross (Sep 7, 2016)

jonnyfgroove said:


> You should be excited, the SC600 MK III is an amazing, useful piece of gear. It was this thread that originally got me interested and I've not regretted the purchase for second.


+1

The XHP35-Hi is an outstanding LED; I have the same one on my Manker U21 and it is an excellent throw emitter. :thumbsup:


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## CelticCross74 (Sep 8, 2016)

saw a pic of the XHP50 SC600 it appears to have a frosted lens...Ill pass...


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## KeepingItLight (Sep 8, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> saw a pic of the XHP50 SC600 it appears to have a frosted lens...



Right. 

ZebraLight felt that a frosted lens was necessary to eliminate the dark cross that sometimes appears in the hot spot of an XHP50 flashlight. Some designers have been able to use a larger, heavily textured OP reflector to accomplish the same purpose, but there is not enough room for that in the ZebraLight.


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## hmihaylov (Sep 8, 2016)

I got mine this week. My first use was as a bicycle light (mounted on the handlebars) last evening. It was not yet dark - around 7pm but there was moderate rain and so it was kind of dark in the local park. I found it better than my sc62w for the road or the straight paths - it has tighter hot spot, so I can use it at lower output, with the same effect. And it has wider spill, so I am seen from greater angles. It was not dark enough for the spill to be useful as lighting the surrounding. But I am thinking that for paths with lots of turns the sc62w is more useful - wider hotspot means it will also light into the next turn. I am wondering how this will compare with the SC600Fd III Plus - It will have the wider hotspot but also a lot of light will be "wasted" - also into the eyes of the oncoming commuters/traffic, which is not something I would like.


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## PeterRamish (Sep 8, 2016)

hmihaylov said:


> I got mine this week. .



I got mine 3 weeks ago.. Testing it I find I prefer the CW, which also have so here's what I decided to do.. 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...light-with-Neutral-White-High-Intensity-XHP35


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## CelticCross74 (Sep 8, 2016)

glad I got my MkIII HI the new XHP50 with a frosted lens is just a bad design. In order to eliminate the cross artifact from the bigger XHP emitters you either de dome them or shave them and use a heavy orange peel reflector. Just had this done on a new custom 4000 lumen XHP70 Mag build. Went from artifact sent it back for dedome put in an orange peel reflector now its perfect. Am curious as to just how much the frosted lens will mess up the beam profile.


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## wolfgaze (Sep 8, 2016)

PeterRamish said:


> I got mine 3 weeks ago.. Testing it I find I prefer the CW, which also have so here's what I decided to do..
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...light-with-Neutral-White-High-Intensity-XHP35



I'm curious, if the light is only 3 weeks old and remains in new condition - how come you're not returning it back to ZL for a full refund?


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## PeterRamish (Sep 8, 2016)

wolfgaze said:


> I'm curious, if the light is only 3 weeks old and remains in new condition - how come you're not returning it back to ZL for a full refund?



Well, I do not feel this is a fair way to do business. The agreement on the purchase is that it can be retuned or exchanged if there is an issue with the product.. There is no issue here, the light is exactly as represented and well within spec. I am an experienced user, I knew what I was buying, just now feel that it is not something I can fit into in my personal "use case" .. In other words I have thought better of the purchase now. That is not Zebralights fault, and I would feel like I am 'gaming' them if I just return it.. 

I know that most here on CPF would just add it to their personal collection and 'shelf queen' it. I rotate and use all my lights, so SQ it would not fit my personal style. 

Anyway thanks for asking, it was a fair question.


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## markr6 (Sep 8, 2016)

PeterRamish said:


> Well, I do not feel this is a fair way to do business. The agreement on the purchase is that it can be retuned or exchanged if there is an issue with the product.. There is no issue here, the light is exactly as represented and well within spec. I am an experienced user, I knew what I was buying, just now feel that it is not something I can fit into in my personal "use case" .. In other words I have thought better of the purchase now. That is not Zebralights fault, and I would feel like I am 'gaming' them if I just return it..
> 
> I know that most here on CPF would just add it to their personal collection and 'shelf queen' it. I rotate and use all my lights, so SQ it would not fit my personal style.
> 
> Anyway thanks for asking, it was a fair question.



Fair enough. It's a gray area with the issue thing. But if Clinton gets to say "it depends on what the meaning if 'is' is", you should be able to say "it depends on what the meaning of 'issue' is" 

Actually, they're pretty lenient with how they state it: *Our guarantee is unconditional. If any purchase fails to meet your complete satisfaction, for any reason, you may return it or exchange it within 30 days of receipt of your shipment.

*But I've done the same; sell instead of return. I just felt bad.


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## PeterRamish (Sep 8, 2016)

markr6 said:


> ..But I've done the same; sell instead of return. I just felt bad.



That's exactly it. I actually logged into my account over there at Zebra and started to write the first few sentences of a request for an RMA and got this weird little 'creepy' feeling, so I bailed out on finishing the process. I will feel much better just selling it. And anyway, maybe if no one buys it then I will take that as a sign that 'it was meant to be: me and her forever into the sunset !':buddies:


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## wolfgaze (Sep 8, 2016)

PeterRamish said:


> Well, I do not feel this is a fair way to do business. The agreement on the purchase is that it can be retuned or exchanged if there is an issue with the product.



Appreciate the response... 

Zebralight has a rather liberal return policy.... From the website:

Returns Policy
*Our guarantee is unconditional. If any purchase fails to meet your complete satisfaction, for any reason, you may return it or exchange it within 30 days of receipt of your shipment


*


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## lampeDépêche (Sep 8, 2016)

PeterRamish said:


> Well, I do not feel this is a fair way to do business.



Yeah, I agree with you on this case. If someone disagrees, I'm not going to say they are acting illegally--they aren't. 

But I have the same reaction you do--it just wouldn't feel right to take advantage of a return policy when I'm an experienced user, the light meets all of its specs, and I just got it for a catch-and-release.


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## tsask (Sep 9, 2016)

after I have changed/added the power levels, is there a way to restore the factory default settings?


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## TCY (Sep 9, 2016)

tsask said:


> after I have changed/added the power levels, is there a way to restore the factory default settings?



There isn't a reset function that I know of, you'll need to adjust the levels manually.


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## mntbighker (Sep 9, 2016)

PeterRamish said:


> I think the readers and some of the responders on this battery issue would do well to consider that the issue might not be with Zebralight, but, rather with the battery industry that seems to not have a precise specification for the so-called “18650” battery and has allowed sloppy “add-on” of so-called “protection caps”, which, as Zebralight engineers point out, are of questionable benefit and questionable engineering.



Exactly what I was thinking.


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## AussieRanga (Sep 10, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> glad I got my MkIII HI the new XHP50 with a frosted lens is just a bad design. In order to eliminate the cross artifact from the bigger XHP emitters you either de dome them or shave them and use a heavy orange peel reflector. Just had this done on a new custom 4000 lumen XHP70 Mag build. Went from artifact sent it back for dedome put in an orange peel reflector now its perfect. Am curious as to just how much the frosted lens will mess up the beam profile.



Bad design!? Do you mean to say it doesn't meet your tastes? 

Bad design would be releasing a FLOODY light which had a defined hotspot with (more than likely) obvious flaws because they decided to listen to people on the internet with no real clue telling them they need to add a clear glass window in order to fill a product void that did not exist.

EDIT: I'm curious when people will get that lights that show more of their immediate envirionment in a wide, smooth and consistent manner, like this one should, are way more useful than given credit.


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## oKtosiTe (Sep 10, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> glad I got my MkIII HI the new XHP50 with a frosted lens is just a bad design. In order to eliminate the cross artifact from the bigger XHP emitters you either de dome them or shave them and use a heavy orange peel reflector. Just had this done on a new custom 4000 lumen XHP70 Mag build. Went from artifact sent it back for dedome put in an orange peel reflector now its perfect. Am curious as to just how much the frosted lens will mess up the beam profile.


I think it depends entirely on the use case. My HI is really great for late night forest walks, but way to focused for indoor, up close use. Even my regular CW is a bit too focused for my indoor EDC use, so for me it seems the plus would make for a much better companion to the HI than the CW does.


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## CelticCross74 (Sep 10, 2016)

different strokes for different folks. The HI is utter perfection out to near 50 yards for me. Up close work no problem I just turn the output down a bit. Color rendition is fantastic. I find the beam profile pleasantly diffuse around the hot spot transitioning into a surprisingly large spill portion for such a small reflector.

The new XHP50 light. I read the manual online and am convinced it would drive me nuts. In the manual it states that the frosted lens makes the output appear much dimmer. All they had to do was either de dome or shave the dome of the emitter. I just went through this on my new custom 4000 lumen XHP70 Mag build. With the dome on and with a smooth reflector I got the dark shadow cross smack in the middle of the beam. So after talking to the seller we decided to de dome and add an OP reflector. Worked perfectly. Not a single artifact at all at any of the lights 6 output modes. Used a light orange peel reflector and it worked. Beam definition is barely affected vs the smooth one.

For an upscale light maker that produces arguably the most sophisticated mass production lights on the market I am very surprised they did not just de dome or shave the dome the reflector is already a heavy orange peel. The frosted lens cost them more than it would to have just de domed the emitter in house.

On the XHP35 note Armytek has just begun putting XHP35's into their latest Partner Pro. OTF lumens is a claimed 1580. Will be watching AT and ZL closely from here on out. Have no idea how AT would get that much output out of the XHP35 I could have sworn the Cree data sheet said 1200 was what it can do safely.


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## TCY (Sep 10, 2016)

But the ZL XHP50 light is shooting for high CRI and neutral tint. playing with the dome destroys both.


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## CoherentRays (Sep 10, 2016)

PeterRamish said:


> Well, I do not feel this is a fair way to do business. The agreement on the purchase is that it can be retuned or exchanged if there is an issue with the product.. There is no issue here, the light is exactly as represented and well within spec. I am an experienced user, I knew what I was buying, just now feel that it is not something I can fit into in my personal "use case" .. In other words I have thought better of the purchase now. That is not Zebralights fault, and I would feel like I am 'gaming' them if I just return it..


I admire your integrity. I generally feel this way too and am often disappointed to read when others decide to return products for no other reason than they've changed their minds. Must be tough to be a conscientious retailer with the attitude some purchasers display on the forums these days. 

Ed


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## snowlover91 (Sep 10, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> different strokes for different folks. The HI is utter perfection out to near 50 yards for me. Up close work no problem I just turn the output down a bit. Color rendition is fantastic. I find the beam profile pleasantly diffuse around the hot spot transitioning into a surprisingly large spill portion for such a small reflector.
> 
> The new XHP50 light. I read the manual online and am convinced it would drive me nuts. In the manual it states that the frosted lens makes the output appear much dimmer. All they had to do was either de dome or shave the dome of the emitter. I just went through this on my new custom 4000 lumen XHP70 Mag build. With the dome on and with a smooth reflector I got the dark shadow cross smack in the middle of the beam. So after talking to the seller we decided to de dome and add an OP reflector. Worked perfectly. Not a single artifact at all at any of the lights 6 output modes. Used a light orange peel reflector and it worked. Beam definition is barely affected vs the smooth one.
> 
> ...



Actually the XHP35 is rated on Cree's site with a max of 1833 lumens and the XHP50 is rated for 2546 max lumens so the numbers given by ZL are quite reasonable. 

For me personally the new MK3 Plus model sounds perfect. I find the floody and high cri beams to be useful for a wide variety of indoor and outdoor activities. It certainly isn't suitable for outdoor areas where much throw is needed but for general hiking or walking the smooth beam profile is more helpful for me. I'm looking forward to testing this light and comparing it to my MK3 HI which is probably my favorite light currently.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Sep 10, 2016)

I just bought the light but i still have a few questions.

1. How durable is the lens? Does it scratch easily? I work on cars with my lights and may shove them into copper wires, door panels, maybe bump them under a car. Will the lens scratch or shatter?

2. How easily do they clean up? Do greasy hands do the in in short time with no chance of getting the color back (as far as a rough surface is concerned)?

3. How do they handle being submerged? If i were to drop it in coolant or water while fishing?

4. How about impacts to the ground from pocket height or maybe a bit more?


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## Connor (Sep 11, 2016)

SuzukiGS750EZ said:


> 1. How durable is the lens? Does it scratch easily? I work on cars with my lights and may shove them into copper wires, door panels, maybe bump them under a car. Will the lens scratch or shatter?



The lens is AR coated glass, so yes, it will scratch, both the coating and the glass itself if you push it into anything that's *harder *than the coating and/or glass. 
To shatter the lens you have to be rather unlucky (e.g. drop or hammer the light lens-first into a nail with force).


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## Bob_McBob (Sep 12, 2016)

I love my SC600w HI, but I would not buy it to work on cars. You want something much floodier for that.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Sep 12, 2016)

Bob_McBob said:


> I love my SC600w HI, but I would not buy it to work on cars. You want something much floodier for that.


That's the crappy thing about a budget and needing to fill many roles. Right now I user an ingersoll rand 20v task light or a streamlight stinger led. The task light seems to do well for me but if I need a light on the spot and I'm not home, it would fall on my edc light. While my galaxy s7 has a flashlight, it's not practical for some applications


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## oKtosiTe (Sep 13, 2016)

SuzukiGS750EZ said:


> That's the crappy thing about a budget and needing to fill many roles. Right now I user an ingersoll rand 20v task light or a streamlight stinger led. The task light seems to do well for me but if I need a light on the spot and I'm not home, it would fall on my edc light. While my galaxy s7 has a flashlight, it's not practical for some applications



I am by no means a mechanic, but it seems to me that a headlamp would be most useful in this field? Either way, I think the regular SC600 III or the SC600Fd III Plus would be much more useful for a car mechanic than the SC600w HI, while their high output would still be fine for normal EDC use.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Sep 13, 2016)

oKtosiTe said:


> I am by no means a mechanic, but it seems to me that a headlamp would be most useful in this field? Either way, I think the regular SC600 III or the SC600Fd III Plus would be much more useful for a car mechanic than the SC600w HI, while their high output would still be fine for normal EDC use.


I did notice the headlamp option and I have always wanted one for certain situations. What would you recommend in the zl lineup. I tried looking at them yesterday but there are so many


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## eraursls1984 (Sep 13, 2016)

SuzukiGS750EZ said:


> I did notice the headlamp option and I have always wanted one for certain situations. What would you recommend in the zl lineup. I tried looking at them yesterday but there are so many


I would go with an 18650 version just because of the extended run times. Within that subset of lights I'd go with the F (flood) version, maybe the 602 (mule, floodier than the flood version). I also like the neutral tints so I like the W (H602w, H600Fw) and the D version would work well during daytime (H602d, H600Fd) 

I'd say H602d of you only want it for up close, or the H600Fd if you want to work up close, and medium distances.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Sep 13, 2016)

I've actually just ordered an sc600 mkiii, so I have the 18650 already. Flos I figured because when I use a head lamp it's usually for work right at arms length. Is probably go with the fd


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## tops2 (Sep 13, 2016)

SuzukiGS750EZ said:


> I did notice the headlamp option and I have always wanted one for certain situations. What would you recommend in the zl lineup. I tried looking at them yesterday but there are so many



Basically do you want it for really really close range (H603w), close to medium range (H600Fw or H600Fd), or a better general use with more distract but less flood (H600w).

I personally have the close to medium range one. I got the H600Fd since it's a high CRI version that gives better color reproduction. Since its for closer distance, the extra loss in lumens vs the newer H600w MKIII doesn't matter to me. But for outdoor use, it's good up to medium range. I really notice the lack of throw (distance) of the beam if I hear something in the distance...but I get a nice wide beam in front of me.

I think a good all arounder is the H600w. The flood isn't as wide as the "F" version, but the throw should be much further. There's always the scotch tape/diffuser "trick" of placing say a piece of scotch tape over the lense and the beam becomes more floody. You maybe able to try this trick even with just normal existing flashlight. Then when you need extra throw, just take off the tape.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Sep 13, 2016)

Well, what's the big difference between super close and close to medium? The close to medium sounds better for utility, but I don't think I'd need it to light up farther than arms length for the most part. Does the close close one have any type of spot?


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## markr6 (Sep 13, 2016)

SuzukiGS750EZ said:


> Well, what's the big difference between super close and close to medium? The close to medium sounds better for utility, but I don't think I'd need it to light up farther than arms length for the most part. Does the close close one have any type of spot?



No spot on the H603. It's even from side to side. It depends on what you want. Even close up, I found I wanted a defined hotspot while working under my jeep last night. My headlamp just didn't have the "punch" I needed to look thru tight areas, light up narrow nooks and crannies, etc. So I used my H52w (diffused with d-c-fix tape) along with my PD32.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Sep 13, 2016)

markr6 said:


> No spot on the H603. It's even from side to side. It depends on what you want. Even close up, I found I wanted a defined hotspot while working under my jeep last night. My headlamp just didn't have the "punch" I needed to look thru tight areas, light up narrow nooks and crannies, etc. So I used my H52w (diffused with d-c-fix tape) along with my PD32.


That's what I was thinking. There are times where flood is a hindrance because it casts shadows. So what's the newest mid/close cooler light? I don't favor warm lights much


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## tops2 (Sep 14, 2016)

SuzukiGS750EZ said:


> Well, what's the big difference between super close and close to medium? The close to medium sounds better for utility, but I don't think I'd need it to light up farther than arms length for the most part. Does the close close one have any type of spot?





SuzukiGS750EZ said:


> That's what I was thinking. There are times where flood is a hindrance because it casts shadows. So what's the newest mid/close cooler light? I don't favor warm lights much



I don't have the H603 versions, but based on what I read and various pictures online, it looks good for maybe up to 10 feet?

My H600Fd seems to be good up to maybe 30-40 feet. Otherwise, I can't really see that far off. Some on reddit estimated the H600Fd to have throw up to ~88 feet (if I remember correctly). While my "F" is floody, it sort of has a hotspot thats gradually transistions to spill.


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## SuzukiGS750EZ (Sep 14, 2016)

I'll look on the website later on tonight and let you know what I come across


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## lampeDépêche (Sep 14, 2016)

Sorry--just interrupting this thread to say:

GAH! Could you people just send me my light already? 

I knew it was on backorder, but that doesn't mean that I want to *wait* for it! 

Okay. I feel calmer now. Carry on.


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## markr6 (Sep 14, 2016)

Getting closer to just 1 week to go if on time!


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## Witterings (Sep 14, 2016)

Just read this post about using it as a bicycle light
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...I-HI-BUY-IT!&p=4960052&viewfull=1#post4960052

I've just used mine for the 1st time for cycling tonight ... can anyone tell what the differences are in the beam between the SC62w and one of these .. I could see what hmihaylov meant about the wider beam possibly being better in some circumstances and lighting the way round the next corner although that said I found it a lot better when I tilted it up a bit more but am wondering if the 62 may be a better cycle light or am I just looking to justify another purchase???

Anyone desperate to get hold of one ... I got mine from NKON just very recently and they still have them in stock ... I paid the extra for the faster shipping but it wasn't much for the standard shipping although that was to Europe so may depend where you're based.


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## srvctec (Sep 14, 2016)

I ordered my SC600w MK III HI last Friday directly from ZL as I have my other Zebralights. I could have sworn it said in stock when I ordered but apparently not. I've tried contacting ZL customer service twice now with no response. Is that normal? Can't believe they took my money but won't respond to any inquiries from me. I would have thought at least they would have sent an email saying it's on back order with an expected ship date of xxxxxxx. But nothing, Nada, zip from them.

Now I'm almost second guessing my choice because I work on copiers and printers for a living and the first ZL I used for this was a SC32w for about a year and then the SC62w for about the last year or so. It sounds like maybe the HI is NOT what I need as it may not have enough spill. I was wanting one that had some throw as well as enough flood spill for up close work on the lower mid level.

Thoughts, anyone? If the HI is a no go for my needs, how in the heck can I cancel an order from ZL and order the regular SC600w MK III if I can't get them to respond to any inquiries at all?


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## fnsooner (Sep 14, 2016)

^^^
My opinion is that you would still prefer the SC62w over the SC600w MK III HI, considering what you are using it for. The SC600w HI is a great light though.

As far as contacting ZebraLight, my luck has been mixed but I always get taken care of. I can't log into my ZL account at the moment, but I think on the first page after you log into your account there is a comment window. That is where I have had my best luck.


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## srvctec (Sep 14, 2016)

fnsooner said:


> ^^^
> My opinion is that you would still prefer the SC62w over the SC600w MK III HI, considering what you are using it for. The SC600w HI is a great light though.
> 
> As far as contacting ZebraLight, my luck has been mixed but I always get taken care of. I can't log into my ZL account at the moment, but I think on the first page after you log into your account there is a comment window. That is where I have had my best luck.


Thanks for the fast reply! I'm definitely getting one of the SC600w MK III flavors, just not sure which one because I like the reversible clip and lanyard ring as well as the awesome knurling. 

Yeah, I tried both the "contact us" thing after logging into my account and the "add request" when logged in. I wish I could just call and tell them what I want to do.


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## fnsooner (Sep 14, 2016)

srvctec said:


> I'm definitely getting one of the SC600w MK III flavors, just not sure which one because I like the reversible clip and lanyard ring as well as the awesome knurling.


Since you have the SC62w, I would definitly go for the HI.


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## fnsooner (Sep 14, 2016)

...or maybe definitely the SC600Fd III Plus.


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## srvctec (Sep 14, 2016)

fnsooner said:


> ...or maybe definitely the SC600Fd III Plus.


That's the one with the frosted lens, isn't it? No way I'd want that. I want an all-around EDC light which the SC62w is and has been for me. I just really like the looks of the SC600w MK III and the HI seemed like it still had enough spill in the beam shots I saw, to work for me while working inside of machines. 

I just realized I don't have any unprotected flat top 18650's and apparently that's what is required for this light. Dang it, I must have missed that little detail in the excitement of ordering the light. Wonder if I can somehow get ZL to add a couple to my order.


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## fnsooner (Sep 14, 2016)

I predict they will take care of you in due time. Send them another message about adding a battery or two. They seem to ignore "when is it going to get here" messages but answer actionable requests like canceling orders or altering an order. 

I have had a couple of rants on these forums about ZL customer service but they have always come through in the end. It is sometimes hard to get a back and forth conversation going with them. It is the way they have always been. Frustrating as it may be.

I would also recommend the H52w headlamp for what you are doing, but they are backordered.


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## srvctec (Sep 14, 2016)

fnsooner said:


> I predict they will take care of you in due time. Send them another message about adding a battery or two. They seem to ignore "when is it going to get here" messages but answer actionable requests like canceling orders or altering an order.
> 
> I have had a couple of rants on these forums about ZL customer service but they have always come through in the end. It is sometimes hard to get a back and forth conversation going with them. It is the way they have always been. Frustrating as it may be.
> 
> I would also recommend the H52w headlamp for what you are doing, but they are backordered.



Ha! I missed your post earlier because CRAPatalk didn't notify me. 

I did exactly what you suggested and they replied within a few minutes. Placed an order for two of the batteries and they will refund shipping for them and send them with the light when it goes out in 2 to 3 days. Can't wait to get it now! Oh, and about it maybe not being bloody enough for what I need, I can just put on a diffuser if need be- no big deal there. See my sig "Smooth out your beam".


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## lampeDépêche (Sep 15, 2016)

Just got my shipping notice! 

They must have read my exasperated plea yesterday and decided to take pity on me.

The website lists it still as back-ordered, but I guess they have a new shipment in.


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## srvctec (Sep 15, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Just got my shipping notice!
> 
> They must have read my exasperated plea yesterday and decided to take pity on me.
> 
> The website lists it still as back-ordered, but I guess they have a new shipment in.




How long did you have to wait before yours shipped? I ordered mine last Friday and sent a couple of messages with no response and finally said I wanted them to add 2 batteries to my order but wanted them to go with the light whenever it shipped. They told me last night it would all ship out in 2 - 3 business days. Hoping mine goes out tomorrow.


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## archaeo72 (Sep 15, 2016)

I also ordered mine early Friday morning when the Zebralight website listed them as in stock. I messaged them Wednesday and they told me that the light would ship in about two weeks...


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## lampeDépêche (Sep 16, 2016)

Ordered mine Thursday 9/8; got shipping notice Thursday 9/15.


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## archaeo72 (Sep 16, 2016)

Well... I just got a shipping notice as well.


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## NICSAK (Sep 16, 2016)

Me too!!![emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]


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## markr6 (Sep 16, 2016)

You guys are freaking me out with these shipped notifications because I keep mixing this thread up with the SC600 Plus thread!


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## NICSAK (Sep 16, 2016)

markr6 said:


> You guys are freaking me out with these shipped notifications because I keep mixing this thread up with the SC600 Plus thread!



Lol sorry[emoji6]


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## srvctec (Sep 16, 2016)

I got my shipping notice today! Should have it Tuesday.


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## oeL (Sep 17, 2016)

Witterings said:


> Just read this post about using it as a bicycle light
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?417007-Zebralight-SC600-MKIII-HI-BUY-IT!&p=4960052&viewfull=1#post4960052
> 
> I've just used mine for the 1st time for cycling tonight ... can anyone tell what the differences are in the beam between the SC62w and one of these .. I could see what hmihaylov meant about the wider beam possibly being better in some circumstances and lighting the way round the next corner although that said I found it a lot better when I tilted it up a bit more but am wondering if the 62 may be a better cycle light or am I just looking to justify another purchase???



Me and my wife we are using SC600wMKII as bicycle lights. The "w" has the known benefits in outdoor usage (less water/fog reflection, better recognition of mud/wood/stones/plants).
The spot (size and brightness) is just right for some trails in the forest. I never had any issues, seeing roots too late or so, nothing. On broader ways the spot is even a bit narrow - two bicycles side by side with each a MKII is just perfect.
So I assume the MKIIIHI's spot is too small for mountainbiking. Maybe perfect for a road bike and a country lane, with few and only very wide turns, OK.
Now, is the SC63w or the SC600wMKIII (non-HI) better as bicycle light? I think it depends on the roads you are on. SC62w or SC63w? The second is noticeable brighter. And the Plus XPH50? Maybe even better for challenging single trails (thanks to the "air flow" it will probably operate at full brightness all the time).

And please remember: Never ever use a light like the Zebras on a road with oncoming cars - you would blind the drivers, they won't see anything for quite a long moment! Always use a bicycle light with a traffic optimized reflector/optic, and the Zebra only as an additional high beam!


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## oeL (Sep 17, 2016)

Just received mine (the "w" variant) from NKON. Well, what can I say... if I was allowed to take just one flashlight to this lonesome island, it's surely this one. The MKIII HI is perfect when you want an universal light. It's so small and light, that it might maybe replace my SC62w as EDC. It has such a tight and bright spot, that you can use it to light really far objects. But it has still such a wide spill, that you also can use it to light your way in the mountains at night. Sure there are lights that can do one thing better: There are smaller ones, you get better flooders for your way, you get searchlights that reach much further. But no single light that is so good in all disciplines together.
Quality, surface coating, and UI is "zebra-perfect" as always.


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## StandardBattery (Sep 17, 2016)

oeL said:


> Just received mine (the "w" variant) from NKON. Well, what can I say... if I was allowed to take just one flashlight to this lonesome island, it's surely this one. The MKIII HI is perfect when you want an universal light. It's so small and light, that it might maybe replace my SC62w as EDC. It has such a tight and bright spot, that you can use it to light really far objects. But it has still such a wide spill, that you also can use it to light your way in the mountains at night. Sure there are lights that can do one thing better: There are smaller ones, you get better flooders for your way, you get searchlights that reach much further. But no single light that is so good in all disciplines together.
> Quality, surface coating, and UI is "zebra-perfect" as always.


Yup, I'm torn if I should replace my SC62w with the 600w mkIII HI. I use my EDC light mostly indoors so I don't need the outdoor benefits too much in my EDC, and I just replaced the clip on the 62 with a deep carry one that's a nicer matched color in titanium rather than the polished silver original. Of course the mkIII has a pretty deep carry clip that is a nice matching color, but still a bit too reflective. The slimmer size of the 62 series does make them easier to carry in different pants and remain stealth.

But you are right, the 600 mkIII HI is very impressive. It's definitely destined to be a ZL classic if it does not get too over shadowed by the new Plus model. I'm very impressed with the way the 600 series for SC and H have developed. Not crazy about the 63 series as I see the change to the battery connections unnecessary for this series. Overall after being happy for a couple years or so not to really visit CPF it's great to see ZL still doing great things. I'm now very happy with a H603Fd (indoors), H600Fw mkIII XHP35 (outdoors), SC600w mkIII HI (everywhere), and all my various earlier models. Still use a smaller SC52 in the toolkit along with an original H600 series with the bubble lens. The SC5Fd is also turning out to be just a great little indoor light I didn't need, this model will be on my gift giving list since it's AA powered. Just waiting for the Plus to ship and the Klarus G20 to get into my hands and I think I'm good until the updated ZL interface or a couple more years of waiting. My days are numbered, but my flashlight collection has been updated


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## lampeDépêche (Sep 17, 2016)

Got the shipping notice on Thursday, expected delivery of Monday.

...And it came today! Thank you, US Postal Service! Not only are you in the Constitution, but you are good at what you do.

First reactions, in no particular order.

Oh yeah, it's all they say. Tiny, bright, great tint. It's still daylight here, so I can't do all the tests I want, but:

The color rendition is great. Wood looks like wood, and different woods look different (has anybody else noticed what a challenge different kinds of wood-grain can be? That's one of the easiest ways to see the problem with Lo-CRI lights--all wood grains look like the same silverish-blue haze). 

The restriction on battery-length is serious! I have a VTC5 from Vinh that he or someone else dropped a blob of solder on, in order to give it a button. That lengthens it to about 66.4mm, and that WILL NOT WORK in the SC600w III HI. Tail-cap simply won't screw on to make contact. Instead, I am using flat-top AW IMR red-labels, rated at 3000 mAh and 20A. Work just fine, and I got them at the local vape-shop. (I do not vape, but I do appreciate that they have made good-quality 18650s available locally).

The moonlight modes are brighter than advertised, I think. If you are a ZL fan, you are a moonlight fan, so you want to know about this. I have just been in our dark cellar, playing with my new SC600w III HI, and my trusty H52w. ZL officially lists both of them with the same lowest L2: 0.01lm. But in fact, the lowest L1 on the SC600w is about *ten* times as bright as the lowest L2 on the H52w. It's a bit dimmer than the H52w's highest L2 of 0.34lm--I would bet it will measure out to about 0.2 lumens. 

Now, the lowest L2 on the H52w is *ridiculously* low. You cannot read with it, in pitch-black, with dark-adjusted eyes, unless you keep the light within 5 centimeters of the text, and then it illuminates about a 3-cm circle of text bright enough to read. It is really more like a tritium-vial mode, saying "here's your H52w! Find it in the dark!" So that's what I think of as a genuine low-low, and let's suppose that is really 0.01 lumens. The SC600w III HI's low-low is bright enough to read text with the light held back at 50 cms, and it illuminates almost the full width of an A4 sheet. So again, something like 10 times as bright or more.

The mode spacing is great. I have mine set for the lowest option on L2, the lowest on M2, and the second-lowest on H2:
L2: 0.2lumens (officially 0.01, but I'm estimating mine at about 0.2)
(jump x 15); 
L1: 3.3 lumens 
(jump x 3); 
M2: 10 lumens
(jump x 6)
M1: 61 lumens
(jump x 5)
H2: 312 lumens
(jump x 4)
H1: 1126 lumens

Of course, you can set yours any way you like! 

That's why I did not use the lowest setting on H2, which is 139; that's about 2x the M1 and about 1/8 of H1, so the jumps are less evenly spaced.

This is my first of the SC600 series, and I am relieved to see that the head is not that big at all. I plan to EDC this, and I don't think it will be a problem in my pocket.

Anyhow--I like it a lot. I look forward to hearing more when the PLUS comes out, but I am very satisfied with the HI so far.


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## roger-roger (Sep 17, 2016)

StandardBattery said:


> Yup, I'm torn if I should replace my SC62w with the 600w mkIII HI. I use my EDC light mostly indoors so I don't need the outdoor benefits too much in my EDC, and I just replaced the clip on the 62 with a deep carry one that's a nicer matched color in titanium rather than the polished silver original. Of course the mkIII has a pretty deep carry clip that is a nice matching color, but still a bit too reflective. The slimmer size of the 62 series does make them easier to carry in different pants and remain stealth.




Most beam shots of the HI, imo don't give a realistic view of its beam. What I felt I lost significantly out to at least 60', was the flood-like standard beam from the 62w and 600w MK3. The more distinctive hotspot in the HI required more concentration, on what I'm trying to see outside of it. Basically you choose your compromises.


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## Witterings (Sep 17, 2016)

oeL said:


> So I assume the MKIIIHI's spot is too small for mountainbiking. Maybe perfect for a road bike and a country lane, with few and only very wide turns, OK.
> Now, is the SC63w or the SC600wMKIII (non-HI) better as bicycle light? I think it depends on the roads you are on. SC62w or SC63w? The second is noticeable brighter. And the Plus XPH50? Maybe even better for challenging single trails (thanks to the "air flow" it will probably operate at full brightness all the time).
> 
> And please remember: Never ever use a light like the Zebras on a road with oncoming cars - you would blind the drivers, they won't see anything for quite a long moment! Always use a bicycle light with a traffic optimized reflector/optic, and the Zebra only as an additional high beam!



Been wondering much the same ... someone a while back posted that the 62 was better for off road and showed up the turns more but this may be better for on road. I used mine for the 1st time the other night on a cycle path alongside the road and if you pointed it a bit more forward than you think you need to you get better indication of where the road was going.

I've also been a bit concerned about how much spill goes across the road and potentially blinds drivers although the max I turned it up to was the 312 lm setting .. I'm not sure what spill car headlights may have in comparison and how much better "directed" against oncoming traffic it is.

Kind of defeats the object of being well illuminated so traffic can see you if you blind the driver coming in your direction so they can't see where they're going and you end up directly in their path oo:

I'm guessing as well that the 62/63 that whilst it's hot spot is wider it'll also have a wider spill which may be better for off road but even worse on the road for oncoming traffic ??????


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## hmihaylov (Sep 18, 2016)

Witterings said:


> someone a while back posted that the 62 was better for off road and showed up the turns more but this may be better for on road





Witterings said:


> I'm guessing as well that the 62/63 that whilst it's hot spot is wider it'll also have a wider spill which may be better for off road but even worse on the road for oncoming traffic ??????



Being that "someone" that posted that 62/63 would be better on a path I also mentioned that the spill of the 62/62 is tighter and not wider. Regarding the use of MKIII Hi in traffic - I am using it but am very careful that the no part of the hotspot can get into a driver's eyes. And of course, I would use H1/blink mode only during the day or on a very well lit road - otherwise it will indeed harm dark-adapted eyes.

As for its use on a trail - if you know the trail or it is a straight one - there is no problem. If you are going slowly, again there is no problem. If you are rushing downhill and there are a lot of bends - then even the 62/63 will not give you enough flood. Combine your bike light with a headlamp or use a dedicated bike trail light.


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## lampeDépêche (Sep 20, 2016)

One thing I have noticed with this light--if my eyes are totally dark-adapted, and I use the low-low for a while, then after I click it off, the emitter still glows for about 10 seconds or so. Really dimly, but with this reflector it's enough to cast an actual beam.

I assume that this is the result of the phosphors on the emitter, rather than a current leak. (And it happens after turn-off from any level, it's just harder to see if you have had it on a higher level because your eyes are not as dark-adapted).

But I don't remember noticing it with any other light I own. Is this a difference with the XP35?


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## StandardBattery (Sep 20, 2016)

It's official I swapped two lights (TK-35 & MD2) in my small pack (Noatak) for this one. When winter gets a little closer and I use a larger bag I may put one of those other lights back. The light in the bag gets little use, its for emergencies, but right now it will help reduce the weight.


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## markr6 (Sep 20, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> One thing I have noticed with this light--if my eyes are totally dark-adapted, and I use the low-low for a while, then after I click it off, the emitter still glows for about 10 seconds or so. Really dimly, but with this reflector it's enough to cast an actual beam.
> 
> I assume that this is the result of the phosphors on the emitter, rather than a current leak. (And it happens after turn-off from any level, it's just harder to see if you have had it on a higher level because your eyes are not as dark-adapted).
> 
> But I don't remember noticing it with any other light I own. Is this a difference with the XP35?



Yes that happens. And if your eyes are really night adapted, you can put the light in your hand (make a fist) and put it against your face to block out any light. You can notice this glow for over a minute, especially if you don't look directly at it.

My Nitecore EC4S did this, TM16 was very obvious, and some Fenix lights I used to have.


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## snowlover91 (Sep 20, 2016)

Yeah I've noticed the glow if my eyes are really adjusted to the dark. It's actually useful for me because I'll turn the light off a few seconds before I actually need to and it gives me a little extra usable light. I'm guessing it has to do with the boost circuit having some residual energy after the light is turned off or something along those lines.


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## lampeDépêche (Sep 20, 2016)

Ah--so not the emitter, but the circuit. Okay, that makes sense. Esp. if Markr6 has had this happen with other emitters in other lights (I don't recall it in any other light, personally).


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## emarkd (Sep 20, 2016)

Yeah I've got a few lights that do that and they've all got 6 or 12v emitters, so require boost circuits. Probably a cap in there that's just bleeding off when the power is cut.


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## BethAtTheHug (Sep 30, 2016)

I just got one today, along with a couple of batteries, from Nkon. Simply... Wow! 

Using it as a supplementary off-road bike light. Out of the box medium is a bit too low, and high is awesome! But wont last as long as I want for a ride. I'll probably program H2 to be the 312lm setting So I can have something that'll last and blip it up to full whack only when needed.
Such a tiny light for the size! Well chuffed.


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## radellaf (Oct 15, 2016)

Latecomer to this, I see, and apparently lucky they had one in stock on 9/28. Really nice they shipped 10/3, and it got to me the day before the power went out in Raleigh, NC from Hurricane Matthew. It was out for some here for 5-6 days, mine just like 6 hours. Bad for flashlight, good for my frozen food. INCREDIBLE for walking out to the street, with all power out, no streetlights, to "look at the powerlines". I said to wife. To play with flashlight, despite risk of being hit in the head with a tree limb, in truth.

I finally decided to write to ZL about the switch getting flaky on the old SC600w. Might still get that repaired, rate is reasonable although where I'd find a "check" to write them for the fee is going to take work. A check? Really?

Anyway, had to look at the new SC600s. Mk II never sold itself to me, or the SC63. LOVE my SC62w. Love it more after programming the PID down 5 degrees cooler. But XHP35? That looks cool. What's a "HI"? Found datasheets, figured it out. Neat. More throw, Neutral tint? Even better. OK, shouldn't spend the money but let's try it...

Amazed how small it is vs the original SC600. LOVE the new beam profile. Been reading the mkIII plus frosted-lens thread and happy not to like that beam. I love the ZL flood/throw balance and like this one even more. The SC600Fd isn't the perfect companion to the HI, the SC62 or 63 are, IMHO. Would never call the HI a "thrower", apart from it having enough sheer output to put my 1st run XM-L thrower lights to shame. At 2-3x the battery drain, but still.

Went way overboard on battery choices. New pairs of GA, MJ1, in hand; and if BangGood isn't Bad, 35E as well soon.

Also playing with PKCell 2200mAh (4.4A rated), an unknown 2000mAh SZNH cell from a PocketJuice USB power bank (is it 1C or 2C max?), and some Shenzhen ZhuoNeng SZNS 2500mAh cells sold as 25A but with a lot of research found to be 2.5A max with 5A trip PTCs. But honest 2500mAh capacity.

I get 4.5-4.9A tailcap on a 50% down MJ1, 4.1-4.5 with a fresh one, and batteries lower than that don't seem to be able to do full H1 so draw <4A. I'm in the 4.4A PKcell limit within 30-45 seconds, and willing to tax the 2.5A limit ones at 3A after about 3 minutes of rapidly dropping drain. Gotta try it once to see if H1 triggers the PTC (then never again). This all goes with a new MC3000 charger that has me all experimenty again. I need to get back to that thread.

Anyway, finding this light pretty flexible on batteries. I only have 3 protected cells to my name. Using a wire vs. the tailcap, the Trustfire red flame ( test recently at 1900mAh) must trip at 4A -- light blinks on in H1 and then quits (highest H2 is fine). The Readilast 2900 (NCR18650? Tests 2700mAh recently) works fine in H1. The power bank 2000mAh cell got to 40C after 30 min in the light at H1, no cooling, which is cooler than the outside of the light. In the MC3000 at 2A, it rose 8C over ambient over 30 min (33C I think). So it's probably a 4A cell not a 2A one. Impedance about 60mohm. Not really worried about any of them. H1 for the 30 sec I ever use it for, except when testing batteries, isn't likely to be an issue, and H2 starts below 2A.

All just for fun, anyway. Mostly I use the MJ1 or a little older LG E1 4.35V cell to play with it. The MJ1 on H1, cooled by the light sitting in a glass of water, gave me about 40 minutes runtime before step-down. That's incredible. Water wasn't even _that_ warm afterwards.

I still like my SC52 and 52d size and clip style best for pocket clipping, but it's nice to now have a "tiny" ZL that outdoes every single other light I have in tint, throw utility, and floody-enough versatility. And, bless the PID 5C drop, one that runs in H1 without ever scalding my hand. That was a (literally) sore point with the SC62w before I learned the trick.

It's on back order now, so I feel very special to have stumbled onto "the greatest light ever". Credit to the MC3000 charger and the nifty iOS app for getting back my interest in 18650 batteries instead of AAs. The Xtar VC2 was cool, but OMG... this new one... like I said, other thread for that.

So yeah, "Buy It!", indeed (when it comes back in stock).


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## ormandj (Oct 16, 2016)

Is there any site that has these in stock currently? I've looked everywhere I know to check without luck. I've got a ZL SC600Fd MK III Plus XHP50 that's probably getting returned (the floody beam profile just isn't working for me so far), and the SC600 MKIII HI seems like the light I want to replace it with. I realize my chance is slim, but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. [Edit: Found one, thanks folks, can't wait to join the thread with some more useful content!]


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## liteboy (Oct 17, 2016)

Check knifecenter dot com


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## liteboy (Oct 17, 2016)

Ok got mine recently and overall really impressed! Mine is cool white and as mentioned already, tint is more neutral to warm side to my eyes. I'm really just not crazy about UI as I suspected prior to owning now two ZLs and playing with them. Really like the battery meter tho! My major gripe with this light is the little protruding piece for the split ring/lanyard. It renders light much less able to be paired with a custom holster for daily carry, which this light would otherwise fit into head up.


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## eraursls1984 (Oct 17, 2016)

liteboy said:


> Ok got mine recently and overall really impressed! Mine is cool white and as mentioned already, tint is more neutral to warm side to my eyes.


These are only available in neutral. The "w" is their neutral lights.


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## liteboy (Oct 17, 2016)

eraursls1984 said:


> These are only available in neutral. The "w" is their neutral lights.



I think you're right. mine is W, neutral.


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## PocketLight88 (Oct 17, 2016)

Ordered mine last week, still on back order. A guy has gotta have one to walk his dog in the woods!


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## StandardBattery (Oct 17, 2016)

With the Plus on Hiatus this is the one to get. Actually they are different so you can have both  

Just make sure the Sanyo GA cell is charged and ready to go when it arrives. If you are getting one with the light hopefully you can charge it before dark.


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## PocketLight88 (Oct 17, 2016)

I like your idea of getting both!

Unfortunately i don't have any unprotected cells [emoji20] I will have to charge it asap when it comes in the mail with the light!


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## mico (Oct 18, 2016)

Mine came a couple weeks ago with the new darker anodising 

Okay, you were right - it's just about perfectly executed. Nice tint and great beam pattern with such a clean spill. I can't find anything to complain about. I'd keep it even if I never used it.

I was though pleased to find that my standard model is still more impressive on H1 - the wall of light effect.
If my standard was a nicer colour temperature and wasn't slightly yellow around the hot spot i might consider it a superior 'thing'. (But they are really quite different torches.)

So if you 'just' have the standard, are happy with it, and read this thread just to punish yourself - Don't!


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## Auringonvalo (Oct 19, 2016)

I would like to double-check that Sanyo NCR18650GA really fits with this light because nkon.nl says it doesn't.
_
This light needs batteries of 65mm long, it does not work with protected batteries (like from Keeppower, EagleTac or Enerpower) because these are too long. Unfortunately it also does not work with the Sanyo NCR18650GA, because it is a little bit too short. This causes the light to turn off when you shake the SC600w a little bit. 

We recommend the LG INR18650MJ1 3500mAh, because this battery fits perfect.

_
I'm planning to buy a floody light later because right now SC600Fd Mk3 plus is unavailable and it has that tint lottery, so right now I'm looking for a pocket light which can throw. How much longer throw Mk3 HI has compared to that floody SC600Fd? I assume that Mk3 HI is the best pocket light thrower right now? I would prefer high CRI (+90) ~ 5000K thrower, but today that seems to be impossible with pocket lights?


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## tonkem (Oct 19, 2016)

The Sanyo on zebralights website fits the sc63. So should fit the sc600.


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## TCY (Oct 19, 2016)

For good throw check out lights like the MH20GT. While the MK3 HI is an impressive light, it is no where near as throwy as those dedicated pocket throwers.

The NCR18650GA is one of the best choices, if not the best, for the ZL MK3 line. It fits the Fd Plus with zero problem and should also have no problem with the MK3 HI.


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## oeL (Oct 20, 2016)

Auringonvalo said:


> I would like to double-check that Sanyo NCR18650GA really fits with this light because nkon.nl says it doesn't.



It does 
Don't know why NKON prefers the LG, in my eyes Panasonic has more expertise in security and reliability. Ordered the MKIII and some GAs on NKON, fit perfectly.


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## BethAtTheHug (Oct 20, 2016)

I bought the HI from NKON with the both an LG and the GA cell. Both fit just fine. I seem to remember that the GA was found to rattle in some (early perhaps) lights.


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## liteboy (Oct 20, 2016)

This light is seriously so good, after buying almost 20 lights in the past 3 months, I will now slow things down a bit. It's similar to what HDS did for me years ago.


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 20, 2016)

Auringonvalo said:


> I assume that Mk3 HI is the best pocket light thrower right now?



As TCY said, the Mk III Hi is really *not* a dedicated thrower. It has a mixed-use beam with a large hotspot and a lot of spill. Not a small, intense hotspot like a dedicated thrower. 

It seems to clock somewhere in the range of 18kcd, which is good but not in the range of e.g. the Eagletac TX25C or TX25C2. I have the smaller of those in a version souped-up by Vinh, and my TX25CVn puts out around 65kcd from a single CR123, in a package that is 1 cm shorter than the SC600, and a head that is only a millimeter or two bigger in diameter.

That is a dedicated thrower (and a far less *useful* all around light). The SC600 MK III Hi has lots of floody spill and a larger, less-intense hotspot. And it's a better all-purpose light.


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## markr6 (Oct 20, 2016)

NCR18650GA fit in the SC600 series, WITH a clear wrapper I added. Pretty thick plastic wrapper too. As far as length, it's not a tight squeeze at all. Just right.

Not a dedicated thrower, but that's what I use it for when backpacking. Not much spill, but some. Figured I'd repost this from earlier in the thread:


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## Sledgestone (Oct 20, 2016)

I'm thinking of getting a new edc light and have been eyeing this one quite a lot. Should I pull the trigger on this one or is there a better single 18650 allrounder out there?


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## lampeDépêche (Oct 20, 2016)

Sledgestone said:


> I'm thinking of getting a new edc light and have been eyeing this one quite a lot. Should I pull the trigger on this one or is there a better single 18650 allrounder out there?



Tough decision. 
I am EDC'ing it, and liking it. But there are so many great lights out now that I am not confident saying this one is best.
Furthermore, there are differences of personal preference. 
E.g.--the head size is slightly bulky for front-pocket wear. If I had an extra $80, I would look into the SC63w as an option--less throwy, but the same lumen output, and a smaller head. There's also the SC600 MkIII which is not the Plus and not the HI--should be less throwy than the HI, more throwy than the SC63.

And it's not like ZL is the only manufacturer! 

There has never been a better time for lights--or a worse time for making up your mind!


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## TheRealSpinner (Oct 21, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> If I had an extra $80, I would look into the SC63w as an option--less throwy, but the same lumen output, and a smaller head. There's also the SC600 MkIII which is not the Plus and not the HI--should be less throwy than the HI, more throwy than the SC63.



I have all 3 of these lights. I'm pretty sure I posted outdoor comparison pics between the three (I'll see if I can locate the comment), but here's my take-

I currently edc the SC63w, but ONLY because I also carry the SC600 MKIII HI. Alone, the 63w is not enough for me. Sure, up to about 15 yards/meters, its fine, but that's about the extent. I like having the HI for bursts of LIGHT when I need it.

I gave my wife the standard SC600w MKIII because I think it's the best all around torch. Throws as far as you can clearly make out objects, but is floody enough for close up path illumination. If you're only going to carry one, that'd be it.

The SC63w is nice and pocketable, however it gets hot and starts stepping down too soon for me. Makes me feel like I'm pushing it too hard. I realize I'm not, but I also don't drive cars at redline, even though you are able to do so.


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## TheRealSpinner (Oct 21, 2016)

Found it! Here's the link to the original thread.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/4915797


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## Sledgestone (Oct 22, 2016)

Thanks for the input guys! The only worry I have is if the sc600 mklll Hi is to big for pocket carry.


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## jonnyfgroove (Oct 22, 2016)

Sledgestone said:


> Thanks for the input guys! The only worry I have is if the sc600 mklll Hi is to big for pocket carry.



I would not want to carry the MK III HI in my pocket on a daily basis. Far to bulky. YMMV.


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## liteboy (Oct 22, 2016)

Agreed, need a holster


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## twistedraven (Oct 22, 2016)

I carry it in my Jeans for 6-8 hours at a time and never find it bulky, but I also have a small phone in the same pocket, and rarely sit down during those hours.


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## TheRealSpinner (Oct 23, 2016)

I wear cargo shorts… Easy to carry more than one light.


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## liteboy (Oct 23, 2016)

TheRealSpinner said:


> I wear cargo shorts… Easy to carry more than one light.



Tried that in the cargo pocket but too heavy, just bangs around when I walk.


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## srvctec (Oct 23, 2016)

Sledgestone said:


> Thanks for the input guys! The only worry I have is if the sc600 mklll Hi is to big for pocket carry.



I carry mine clipped inside my right front pocket all day long in my Dockers at work and in the same location in whatever I put on after work. I don't find it too bulky at all and that was one of my concerns as well. Prior to the SC600w MKIII HI, I EDCed an SC62w all day every day for about a year.


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## PragmaticMurphyist (Oct 24, 2016)

Depends on the pocket, depends on the person. 

I wear it clipped to the left front pocket of my walking trousers and it's fine. If I wore tight jeans, maybe not so much.


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## BWX (Oct 24, 2016)

Back-ordered (SC600w MK III HI) from ZL website. Now I just wonder how long it will be before I get it.


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## PocketLight88 (Oct 24, 2016)

I got the light Friday and was blown away by how much smaller it is than I thought it would be (it is my first zebralight) I wear it in my front jeans pocket and don't have any issues with it. I rotated my fenix rc09, pd35 and thrunite tn12 before I got this pocket rocket!


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## liteboy (Oct 26, 2016)

PocketLight88 said:


> I got the light Friday and was blown away by how much smaller it is than I thought it would be (it is my first zebralight) I wear it in my front jeans pocket and don't have any issues with it. I rotated my fenix rc09, pd35 and thrunite tn12 before I got this pocket rocket!



Makes you wanna try the rest of the lineup no? I'm itching for sc5 and sc32


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## GODOFWAR (Nov 1, 2016)

Does anyone know if this thing uses PWM?


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## eraursls1984 (Nov 1, 2016)

GODOFWAR said:


> Does anyone know if this thing uses PWM?


Not exactly. It does use pulses, but it doesn't pulse off and on. Many people who have issues with PWM don't have issues with these.


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## Witterings (Nov 4, 2016)

Does this light give any warning that the batteries low or will it just kill the battery if you don't monitor how much charge it's got left and or suddenly cut out ... I know from off you can fast click 4 times and it will blink to tell you the level but I was more thinking about if I was cycling and it were to cut out unexpectedly.

I think one evening i was using it on high and when the battery was low the high level kept stepping down but if I'm cycling I tend to use the 312 lm setting so not sure what would happen with that and also don't really destroy batteries if it can be avoided.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 4, 2016)

Witterings said:


> Does this light give any warning that the batteries low or will it just kill the battery...
> ...and also don't really destroy batteries if it can be avoided.



ZL takes care of the low-battery problem. From the webpage for the SC600 MkIII HI: 
Builtin battery protections with continuously monitored temperature, current, and voltage, plus a (2.7V) low voltage cutoff

So you don't have to worry about damaging the battery by draining it too far.

It also has a built-in step-down from level to level, so if you start on 312 lumens and the battery cannot sustain that it will step down to lower and lower levels as the battery weakens. Aside from getting dimmer, it does not give a separate warning.


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## Witterings (Nov 4, 2016)

lampDepeche

Brilliant ... thank you for that ... like the fact it steps down levels, I carry a spare battery with me so can just switch it over when it does and is obviously what happened when I was trying to use it on max that time ... much appreciated!!!


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## Duramarks (Nov 4, 2016)

I would like to order one of these. I would also like a holster for it. Does any one make a specific holster gor this light?


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## low (Nov 4, 2016)

markr6 said:


> NCR18650GA fit in the SC600 series, WITH a clear wrapper I added. Pretty thick plastic wrapper too. As far as length, it's not a tight squeeze at all. Just right.
> 
> Not a dedicated thrower, but that's what I use it for when backpacking. Not much spill, but some. Figured I'd repost this from earlier in the thread:
> 
> ...


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## BWX (Nov 8, 2016)

_Item ID --------- PRICE---QTY--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------TOTAL

NCR18650GA----$6.99----3----Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Battery----------$20.97

ZLSC600w3HI----$89.00--1---SC600w Mk III HI 18650 Flashlight with Neutral White High Intensity XHP35-$89.00

TOTAL: $109.97_


It shipped. That wasn't too long of a wait I guess.


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## noboneshotdog (Nov 8, 2016)

Duramarks said:


> I would like to order one of these. I would also like a holster for it. Does any one make a specific holster gor this light?



Here's the one I use that many others have recommended for this light as well. 

Nite Ize Tool Holster Stretch - Securely and Conveniently Stores Multi-Tools and Knives of Almost Every Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CVQZ44/?tag=cpf0b6-20


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## twistedraven (Nov 8, 2016)

When I was taking comparison shots of the SC600 HI, Preadtor LE, and U21vn, I snapped this pic of the SC600 HI illuminating a tree and its surroundings at 100feet out.







This is a very useful beam pattern that's very efficient at lighting up objects up to 100 feet with decent brightness and hotspot size. At around 200 feet out, it starts getting rather diffuse. It visually doesn't reach anywhere beyond 250feet with good brightness. Anybody who thinks this light is too throwy, well, then you haven't experienced a true thrower.


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## Minimoog (Nov 17, 2016)

I have two of these now - an early one and one that just arrived today. Of course I compared them! The main difference is the tint - the early one (compared) is more yellow in the centre of the beam and the spill is a bit warmer as well. The new one is more pure white with no colour variation withing the hotspot, but the spill is a bit more towards purple. The new one seems to be better with colour rendition by dint of being less 'dirty'. Compared to an HDS Hi-CRI Rotary, the new one is closest to that in beam colour, but both fall short of the HDS in colour rendition - the colours of what get lit are much punchier with the HDS.


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## ktsl (Nov 19, 2016)

I just got mine today. Oddly, the hot spot of the beam center as a yellow center, same as the sc63 in this thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Question-Is-a-Hard-Yellow-Center-Spot-Normal
Is this normal in SC600 Mk III Hi? It does bother me a bit.


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## maukka (Nov 19, 2016)

ktsl said:


> I just got mine today. Oddly, the hot spot of the beam center as a yellow center, same as the sc63 in this thread:
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Question-Is-a-Hard-Yellow-Center-Spot-Normal
> Is this normal in SC600 Mk III Hi? It does bother me a bit.



Mine has a perfectly uniform hotspot and the most perfect tint.

Zoomed into the hotspot, no spill visible here.


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## TCY (Nov 19, 2016)

ktsl said:


> I just got mine today. Oddly, the hot spot of the beam center as a yellow center, same as the sc63 in this thread:
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Question-Is-a-Hard-Yellow-Center-Spot-Normal
> Is this normal in SC600 Mk III Hi? It does bother me a bit.



Get a RMA# from ZL and get a replacement, this is definitely not normal.


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## ktsl (Nov 19, 2016)

maukka said:


> Mine has a perfectly uniform hotspot and the most perfect tint.
> 
> Zoomed into the hotspot, no spill visible here.





TCY said:


> Get a RMA# from ZL and get a replacement, this is definitely not normal.



Thanks a lot for your help, guys! I will try to get a replacement for mine then.


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## CelticCross74 (Nov 19, 2016)

wow this thread is still going! Awesome! My MkIII is still always with me. Have not had a single issue so far..


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## liteboy (Nov 19, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> wow this thread is still going! Awesome! My MkIII is still always with me. Have not had a single issue so far..



yeah, agreed. for an unmodded light, it doesn't get any better than this!


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## twistedraven (Nov 19, 2016)

The HI listed as in stock again. I picked up two more so I'll have 3 to get the best tint from.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 19, 2016)

My son is a pretty big flashoholic himself--always carries a Fenix PD35 tactical plus a 4/7s Mini 123.

I showed him my new MkIII HI, and he thought it was pretty cool. He was amazed it could put out so much light, when it's running on only a single CR123.

Then I told him--it's actually an 18650 light. He was even more surprised.

That should give you an idea of how small this light is.


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## scs (Nov 19, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> The HI listed as in stock again. I picked up two more so I'll have 3 to get the best tint from.



Pick up 10, since ZL doesn't penalize non-faulty returns, for better or worse.


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## twistedraven (Nov 19, 2016)

scs said:


> Pick up 10, since ZL doesn't penalize non-faulty returns, for better or worse.




Lol I don't want to be too much of a douche.


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## lampeDépêche (Nov 19, 2016)

twistedraven said:


> Lol I don't want to be too much of a douche.



Right, you don't want to penalize a good company for having good customer service policies.

Abusing their trust is the fastest way to force them to introduce *bad* customer service policies (restocking fees, no returns, etc.).


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## TCY (Nov 19, 2016)

lampeDépêche said:


> Right, you don't want to penalize a good company for having good customer service policies.
> 
> Abusing their trust is the fastest way to force them to introduce *bad* customer service policies (restocking fees, no returns, etc.).



This. I told myself to get a bunch of the next ZL light I'm going to buy, pick out one with good tint and return the rest but it just doesn't sound right. I heard that one of the biggest Chinese online vendors (and their customers!) is suffering because they have a good return policy: people abuse it by buying an expensive item, use it for a couple days and return it for a full refund.


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## twistedraven (Nov 25, 2016)

I received the other 2 HIs today and got a chance to compare their tints. To my amazement, they were all very close in terms of color temperature and tint. Given Maukka's numbers and comments, I expected these newer batches to be much closer to the CCT of my 219B light. 

One of the two new lights however, is slightly higher in CCT and slightly less green than the other two, so that'll be the one I'll keep. I'm not sure if pictures would show the difference in tint, but if they do I'll post some when I can. Skin is a little more rosy pink as compared to puke green with this new sample.

My all-time favorite light has become just slightly better with a smally more favorable tint now. There is still part of me that wants to order like 10 more just to see how all of them would compare too, but I I'll hold off before I lose sanity and Zebralight's customer service.


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## CelticCross74 (Nov 26, 2016)

Wow! I am glad I started this thread! It is extremely interesting to read about all the tint variations that different customers have ended up with to say the least. Guess I am fortunate having gotten one of the early batch copies the tint is glorious with no aberrations at all. Interesting to read how current batches are putting out a cooler tint now. One would think that Cree would have better QC to prevent some of the issues I have read about in this thread. As a holster I use an old Coast belt holster for one of their smaller lights I cannot remember the specific model but the ZL fits perfectly. I wanted to have a wool lined leather belt holster custom made but all the custom holster makers want me to send them the light in order to make it. I use the ZL constantly and would just feel naked without the light for the up to 60 day period required to make a custom holster...


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## Sledgestone (Nov 26, 2016)

Just got mine and it's is truly amazing! One question though, is it really supposed to drop output so fast on turbo? Within 15-30 seconds?


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## CelticCross74 (Nov 26, 2016)

15-30 seconds? Yeow! My copy doesnt start stepping down until its been on max for 2 minutes. The thermal regulation in the SC600 MkIII HI is designed to ease off the output until the light cools off to below a certain temp then increases output back up. You may have gotten a copy with an overly sensitive thermal sensor. What cell are you using? Certain unprotected 10 amp or more cells get hotter than others faster than others as is noted in many cell reviews over in the electronics section of the forum by electronics guru HKJ. I use the un protected 3500mah GA ZL sells on their site and have had no issues. Maybe ZL has lowered the thermal sensors tripping temperature on the later batches of the light? Mine is from one of the first batches....


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## tallyram (Nov 26, 2016)

Been a while since I programmed mine, but doesnt the thermal protection have programming options?


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## Sledgestone (Nov 26, 2016)

Yeah, it starts to decrease output to almost the same as the other high mode. I use LG Chem INR 18650 MJ1 10A 3.6V 3500mAh.


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## oKtosiTe (Nov 26, 2016)

Sledgestone said:


> Yeah, it starts to decrease output to almost the same as the other high mode. I use LG Chem INR 18650 MJ1 10A 3.6V 3500mAh.


That sounds weird. I use both the GA and the MJ1 cells and have noticed no difference in normal use.


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Nov 26, 2016)

CelticCross74 said:


> Certain unprotected 10 amp or more cells get hotter than others faster than others as is noted in many cell reviews over in the electronics section of the forum by electronics guru HKJ.



I don't think any cell would have anything to do with this. The rate at which the LED and circuitry heat in relation to the rate of heating up of the battery would be quite different, with the LED heating up much more quickly. It's possible you just got a sample with a very low Vf and it's heating up too fast on H1.



tallyram said:


> Been a while since I programmed mine, but doesnt the thermal protection have programming options?



It's a very small range though, +/- 5*C from nominal value.


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## low (Nov 26, 2016)

As much as I dislike flashlights with removable/loose-able clips on them, I just had to find out why everyone likes them so much. Now I have one on the way.
When I get it I will try and post a pic of about 100 yard shot with it. It should lite it up OK, because I just can make out deer and raccoons (not there eyes) at that distance with my SC62w and I am hoping that this one will reach out a fair amount further and with more usable light.


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## Sledgestone (Nov 27, 2016)

Ok, so any idea what I should do? The tint is close to perfect, so I really don't want do risk changing it out for a new one..


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## Tachead (Nov 27, 2016)

Sledgestone said:


> Ok, so any idea what I should do? The tint is close to perfect, so I really don't want do risk changing it out for a new one..




Increase the PID target temperature value.



PID Thermal Regulation Temperature Programming for two highest output levels:
Turn off the light from H1 and then turn back on to H1 
Press and hold to cycle from Low to High 6 times 
On the 7th (or more) cycle, release the switch
when High to add 1 degree C (up to 5 max) 
when Med to revert back to the factory default 
when Low to subtract 1 degree C (up to 5 max) 
 
 
 
You have to do this procedure 10 times if it is set to its lowest setting.


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## noboneshotdog (Nov 27, 2016)

Tachead said:


> Increase the PID target temperature value.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Do you have to start all over to increase each time or just stop at high each time it cycles l-m-h to increase it 10 times? 

Just curious as I want to adjust mine too.


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## Tachead (Nov 27, 2016)

noboneshotdog said:


> Do you have to start all over to increase each time or just stop at high each time it cycles l-m-h to increase it 10 times?
> 
> Just curious as I want to adjust mine too.



I believe you have to start over. Each time you do the whole procedure you will increase the PID target 1C. It can be adjusted + or - 5C so depending where it is set, it could take as many as 10 adjustments to get to max. Unfortunately, there is not way to tell where you are at.


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## Connor (Nov 27, 2016)

First release once at Med to revert back to the factory default - then it's only 5 steps to min or max. 
Yes, you need to do the complete cycle up to 5 times.


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## Sledgestone (Nov 27, 2016)

I've already tried that. It gets a little better, but it still drops to about 70% within 60 seconds.

Has anyone else tried using a luxmeter to see how much output it drops within a minute?


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## noboneshotdog (Nov 27, 2016)

Thanks ALL for the posts regarding PID adjustment. :twothumbs


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## Connor (Nov 27, 2016)

Sledgestone said:


> I've already tried that. It gets a little better, but it still drops to about 70% within 60 seconds.



I only have the SC600Fd III Plus with XHP50 .. with medium PID it starts dropping after about 45 seconds. But this is a more powerful and less efficient LED (=more heat).


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## ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond (Nov 27, 2016)

I just did a PID test on my SC600 MkIII HI, which is from one of the first runs. It ran for about 3 minutes before I noticed any PID kicking in. Completely stock PID settings and i can't imagine going just 5 degrees C would make that much difference in time to make the extra heat worth it. 

Sorry you're have such a pita time with yours, must a be a defect in the somewhere.


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## Tachead (Nov 27, 2016)

Keep in mind guys that ZL adjusted the PID target temperature on all new models a while after the HI came out. They adjusted it in anticipation of releasing the instructions for end user adjustment. So, the later models have a more aggressive stock PID target setting. I don't know if this accounts for the OPer's problem or not but, I just want to remind everyone about that.


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## ktsl (Nov 28, 2016)

ktsl said:


> Thanks a lot for your help, guys! I will try to get a replacement for mine then.



So I ordered another one few days ago. The new piece, unfortunately, have the same problem - toward the center of the hotspot, it is more yellow than the outer rim of the hot spot. Although it is not very obvious.

Here is another thing: the tint this time is much warmer than the last piece I got. The tint of the last one was a tad bit cooler than 2pm sunlight. This time it is very close to sc32w. I guess it make sense since on Mk III Hi it is supposed to be 4500K vs. 4400k on sc32w. (Did it ever say 5000k on ZL website at some point, or was it just my illusion?)


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## markr6 (Nov 28, 2016)

ktsl said:


> So I ordered another one few days ago. The new piece, unfortunately, have the same problem - toward the center of the hotspot, it is more yellow than the outer rim of the hot spot. Although it is not very obvious.
> 
> Here is another thing: the tint this time is much warmer than the last piece I got. The tint of the last one was a tad bit cooler than 2pm sunlight. This time it is very close to sc32w. I guess it make sense since on Mk III Hi it is supposed to be 4500K vs. 4400k on sc32w. (Did it ever say 5000k on ZL website at some point, or was it just my illusion?)



I don't recall seeing 5000K. But that would be a nice option for this light!


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## twistedraven (Nov 28, 2016)

Cooler than 2pm sunlight would be just over 5700 kelvin. That would be quite that CCT difference.


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## low (Dec 4, 2016)

My SC600w MkIII HI version came in and I do not like the tint at all. I took a picture with my phone but it does not show the bright yellow corona in the upper right hand corner. I also said that I was going to take a distance shot of one hundred yards, but I did not know the the dam was going to be in the way. The phone would pick up the light hitting the dam but not show what I saw at a hundred yards.

To be honest I thought it would throw a good bit further than my SC62w, but it would not. It shown further but not enough for me to keep it.







The SC52d is on the left and the SC600w HI is on the right, way to much yellow for me. Oh well


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## tops2 (Dec 4, 2016)

Edit: Deleted post since previous comment has been corrected to the "HI" model, not the standard version.


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## noboneshotdog (Dec 4, 2016)

It's so strange. I have been following this thread from the beginning and everyone had such rave reviews. Hardly a single complaint. So sad to see such a great light get such poor feedback recently. Led variations seem to have made such a huge difference in people's perception of this once raved about light. That's too bad.


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## emarkd (Dec 4, 2016)

noboneshotdog said:


> It's so strange. I have been following this thread from the beginning and everyone had such rave reviews. Hardly a single complaint. So sad to see such a great light get such poor feedback recently. Led variations seem to have made such a huge difference in people's perception of this once raved about light. That's too bad.


Don't miss the fact that the complainer above is in the wrong thread. He doesnt have an HI light. The "normal" mk3 has always had more of a tint lottery, apparently.


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## noboneshotdog (Dec 4, 2016)

emarkd said:


> Don't miss the fact that the complainer above is in the wrong thread. He doesnt have an HI light. The "normal" mk3 has always had more of a tint lottery, apparently.



Gotcha. I didn't catch that it wasn't the HI from the post above, but I think I recall a couple of people on page 18 that were not to happy with there tints either. Hope to keep hearing the good reports.


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## low (Dec 4, 2016)

Oops, forgot to put the HI in there. It was the Hi version I was talking about, and the throw difference from the SC62w and the Hi version was perhaps 20-40 yards? Really unimpressive that the throw distance is sort of negligible and not pocketable for me. I had heard that it may be twice as far as the SC63 Perhaps the new batch of LED's they just got is of a different tint than the others. Please dont get me wrong, I am not bashing it, I just dont like yellow and I did ask Zebralight for a white tint. If I was not going to pocket carry this light I would prefer it to the SC62w or SC63w. Good luck in your search.


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 5, 2016)

Judgements about tint are notoriously variable--they have a lot to do with personal preference, as well as the last light-source that your eyes got used to, what other lights you are currently comparing the light to, what surfaces you are shining it on, etc. etc.

Judgements about throw can also be affected by environment--how far are those trees, how crowded is the visual field, and so on. 

Throw measurements, by contrast, are very simple and reliable uses of the lightmeter: Selfbuilt measured the SC62 at about 7.5kcd. Measurements for the HI are around 18kcd-20kcd. The lightmeters show that the Hi has over twice the throw of the SC62.

"the throw difference from the SC62w and the Hi version was perhaps 20-40 yards"

Yes, in your visual environment that may have been how it looked to you. And for your uses, the doubling in throw may not be useful or significant. 

Nevertheless, measurements show that the HI is twice as throwy as the SC62.


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## oKtosiTe (Dec 5, 2016)

low said:


> Oops, forgot to put the HI in there. It was the Hi version I was talking about, and the throw difference from the SC62w and the Hi version was perhaps 20-40 yards? Really unimpressive that the throw distance is sort of negligible and not pocketable for me. I had heard that it may be twice as far as the SC63 Perhaps the new batch of LED's they just got is of a different tint than the others. Please dont get me wrong, I am not bashing it, I just dont like yellow and I did ask Zebralight for a white tint. If I was not going to pocket carry this light I would prefer it to the SC62w or SC63w. Good luck in your search.



Just to be sure, are you using one of the recommended cells? Lesser cells will impact the throw. Though on your picture, the HI's hotspot does look much brighter to me.


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## twistedraven (Dec 5, 2016)

Coming from a D Zebralight I can see the HI looking quite overly warm. I had the 5700k Jaxman E2 high CRI flashlgiht for quite a while and was using it quite often before I bought a HI. My initial reaction to the tint was 'this looks like a Sepia filter.' Over time I have gotten used to the tint and can appreciate the warmth, though.

The amount of yellowness has a lot to do with the inherent tint lottery you'll still get with LEDs though-- granted, the amount of tint shift form hotspot to corona to spill is considerably less on a HI emitter due to its flat dome compared to one with a rounded dome, because of the way light transmits through it and reacts with the reflector. I've had 3 HIs, and they were all relatively close in tint and color temperature, but one had a little less green in it than the other two, so I decided to keep that one. 

Visual throw will be far less than what throw numbers indicate. A good rule of thumb is to just take the measured meters and convert it to feet. In this instance, the HI measures around 270m of throw, so that would be about 270 feet of usable, visible throw.


Here is my Manker U21vn reaching out to 400 feet, and it lights up the shore at the end of the river quite nicely. The measured throw of the u21vn is 1000meters. This light can visually reach out to about 1000 feet.







Now here's the HI trying to reach that same shoreline at 400 feet. As you can see, the hotspot gets quite diffused at this range, and you can mostly just see the side of the river to the left taht's around 200-300feet away.







Here's an Armytek Predator LE, with about 40-45k measured lux for about 400-450 meter throw. The light visually makes the end of the shoreline, but it's faint and ghastly blue. This light could probably do another 50 feet before it visually dies.


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## low (Dec 5, 2016)

Yes, I am using the correct cell, the one I ordered from Zebralight.

To be fair, I will compare it to my SC62w in different areas of around 100 yards before I send it back, just to see if my perception of distance changes.


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## tops2 (Dec 5, 2016)

@twistedraven: Thanks for the beamshots! And thanks for the tip to convert to "useable" throw. lol. I usually just change the meters to yards and half the distance.. :laughing:

@low: While not the same light, I played around with the SC600w MKIII a bit before returning it. I find with no ambient light, the yellowness is bearable. But with any ambient light and at lower levels, the yellow got "dirty" quickly and looks real dim and dirty.


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## Tachead (Dec 5, 2016)

tops2 said:


> @twistedraven: Thanks for the beamshots! And thanks for the tip to convert to "useable" throw. lol. I usually just change the meters to yards and half the distance.. :laughing:
> 
> @low: While not the same light, I played around with the SC600w MKIII a bit before returning it. I find with no ambient light, the yellowness is bearable. *But with any ambient light* and at lower levels, the yellow got "dirty" quickly and looks real dim and dirty.



I would think this would very much depend on the ambient light. Moonlight for instance in around 4000K so, this would likely look very white in comparison being around 400K cooler. Normal household lights in a living or bedroom area are 2700-3000K so, it would look very white in comparison to these as well. It all depends on what temp and tint light your eyes have adjusted to. 

I often think people get tint and colour temperature confused. You aren't going to get a light that is close to pure white even if it is right on the BBRL(black body radiation line) and is 4000-4500K like these lights are spec'd. Remember that tint varies along the BBRL as well and will always be more yellow, golden, orange the warmer you get. People should take this into consideration when purchasing a light. If you want close to pure white, you are going to need to purchase a light with a cooler emitter(closer to 5000K). 

Also, the conditions(ambient light) you are going to use the light in should also be taken into consideration when picking a light. For instance, a close to pure white 5000K light is a terrible choice for using when in the forest around a campfire or late at night where no artificial light is present. It is extremely harsh and gives the feeling of stepping instantly into a hospital as it forces your eyes to rapidly adjust hundreds or even thousands of Kelvin. It also shreds your night vision and wakes you up more if you use it after waking late at night for a bathroom break for instance. A close to pure white 5000K light is great however when using as supplementary light during the day. It is also great when white wall hunting, as it makes the wall look closer to pure white. 

No light is ever going to be without colour and although it is nice to get one as close to the BBRL as possible, it is still going to vary depending colour temp. I think people sometimes get too caught up in trying to get the purest white instead of picking what temp is best for their intended use. Obsessive white wall hunting can be fun as a hobby but, it really doesn't matter all that much in actual real world use as your eyes rapidly adjust to the tint and colour temp anyway. Picking the right temp that matches the ambient lighting conditions and suits your intended use matters a lot more imo.


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## low (Dec 7, 2016)

Wow, what a difference changing locations make. As I said before some of the light hitting the dam was way to bright, so I moved to a spot where there was no light hitting objeccts and reflecting back at me from the flashlight and it made all the difference in the world. I went to 200 yards and I saw more than I saw from 100!

The only logical explanation I could come up with is that when the light that is reflected back at you becomes brighter than the light on your intended target, from that point on it severely limits what you can see. 

The Hi clearly doubled the throw from SC62w at this new location, in fact I am impressed, so much so that I think I may keep it. The yellow corona is unseen at a distance with a very white hotspot to boot and white spill. So with the tint lottery being what it is I may just keep it. Besides, luck may be on my side and the yellow corona burns out. And the fact that I like this darker color on the anodizing, I like it better than all the other Zebras I have.


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## lampeDépêche (Dec 7, 2016)

Hey, low, I am glad that you got a chance to see the HI's capabilities in a new environment! 

Thanks for reporting back about your experiences.


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