# Finish options for a bare Al light?



## StoneDog (Sep 26, 2005)

Hi all,

I recently removed the HA3 from a VitalGear FB2 body and Surefire KL1 head. But, I find they still don't match. The FB2 is shiney and polished and the KL1 has a more subdued finish that doesn't seem to polish up very well on my buffing wheel.

So, if I may ask the gurus out there - what are my options to try to make the body and head match? I could probably find a shop that could simply bead blast the whole thing but that isn't very durable. Are there any other low-tech options? If not, are there any places that will apply some other non-annodize finishes at a reasonable cost?

Jon


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## Geologist (Sep 26, 2005)

I always like DUCK/DUCT Tape - One roll will take care of a whole bunch of lights and shoes, etc


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## StoneDog (Sep 26, 2005)

Ahh, and a nice tactical grey to boot. I will consider it!


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## rdshores (Sep 26, 2005)

Geologist said:


> I always like DUCK/DUCT Tape - One roll will take care of a whole bunch of lights and shoes, etc


Check out these colors for even more options.


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## greenLED (Sep 26, 2005)

Have you tried dipping the KL1 again in the stripping solution? Don't leave it for too long, though as the HAiii is already stripped. I had to do that with some Qiii parts I stripped for Former_Mag_User. I did a quick-dip and considered all the anodizing removed, but the colors didn't match exactly, so I dipped the darker part (was it the tailcap :thinking for an extra period (don't remember how long), and then the parts matched.


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## GJW (Sep 26, 2005)

Birchwood Casey's Aluminum Black is an option.
It's a gun bluing liquid that works on aluminum.
Finish is from dark gray to black depending upon alloy.
I've used it twice with mixed results.
On a clean freshly machined surface it worked pretty well but it didn't really take to an old bead-blasted finish.
I also tried darkening an existing but marred anodized surface and it made a terrible mess.
Deadly poison -- not for children!


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## StoneDog (Sep 26, 2005)

GreenLED, yes, the KL1 spent plenty of time in the GreasedLigtning and I spent a fair amount of time scrubbing it clean. 

GJW, it's the part about different alloys that worries me. They may not be same, which would explain some of the difference in their unfinished states. 

Jon


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## PhotonFanatic (Sep 26, 2005)

Why not have it electroless nickel plated? Cheap and fairly durable, too.

Electroless nickel in on the bottom:


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## PEU (Sep 26, 2005)

probably it has a subtle beadblasting, polishing will take more time, but it can be done.


Pablo


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## Vee3 (Sep 27, 2005)

One thing that can be done easily is to polish it to a satin or mirror finish and keep it waxed. You can always buff it again to remove scratches and oxidation. The 6061 alum usually used to make flashlights stays fairly shiney if handled frequently, kept from moisture, or coated with wax.

The problem with Birchwood-Casey alum black is that it has to be applied IMMEDIATELY after polishing if it's going to work very well at all. Bare alum forms an oxide layer minutes after being exposed, and opposes the chemicals in the stuff. Even when done properly, it isn't very durable. I've tried it several times on various alloys and have never been happy with the results.


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## StoneDog (Sep 27, 2005)

Fred,

The EN might work - any suggestions on how to approach a shop to handle such a small job?

Jon


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## PhotonFanatic (Sep 27, 2005)

Jon,

Just call up either a local plater, or a machine shop, and ask them if you could piggy-back on the next job that they are doing. 

If you can't find anyone local, and you aren't trying to get it done on a time schedule, then I could add it to my next job. Cost would be no more than $10.


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## StoneDog (Sep 27, 2005)

Does EN plating require any special masking or prep work?

Jon


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## PhotonFanatic (Sep 27, 2005)

StoneDog said:


> Does EN plating require any special masking or prep work?
> 
> Jon


 Jon,

Perhaps, depending on how you handled the threads when you stripped the anodizing off. Were the threads anodized or not? Did you immerse the entire light in the stripping material?

Were the threads really tight to begin with, or not? Basically, one needs to be careful with the buildup on the threads as the total amount of build is 4X the plating thickness. If the threads are fairly loose, then plating up to .001" probably won't be any problem. If they are tight, then either the plating should be thinner, or the threads masked off.

Needless to say, the plating company can handle that, but you have to give them some quidance.


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## StoneDog (Sep 27, 2005)

The KL1 threads (three female threaded portions and two male) were anodized and are completely clean now. The FB2 has some sort of chemkote gold plating that is still present on both the body and tailcap threads (it was unaffected by the Greased Lightning). Combined there are 8 sets of threads that would need to be masked. That might be a PITA for the plating guys. 

I guess it's not a good idea to have the light plated while it's screwed together?
Jon


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## bombelman (Sep 27, 2005)

Try Airbrushing !

I did it with my Canon Digital Rebel !!

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1031&message=9546205

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1031&message=9525439


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## Jumpmaster (Sep 27, 2005)

You could always powdercoat it...

Or nickle-plate...here are some good links for those that would like to do larger batches. I do not have any direct experience with these people, but plan on buying some of their powder soon.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/nickel.htm
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/index.html


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## VidPro (Sep 27, 2005)

Vee3 said:


> One thing that can be done easily is to polish it to a satin or mirror finish and keep it waxed. You can always buff it again to remove scratches and oxidation. The 6061 alum usually used to make flashlights stays fairly shiney if handled frequently, kept from moisture, or coated with wax.
> 
> The problem with Birchwood-Casey alum black is that it has to be applied IMMEDIATELY after polishing if it's going to work very well at all. Bare alum forms an oxide layer minutes after being exposed, and opposes the chemicals in the stuff. Even when done properly, it isn't very durable. I've tried it several times on various alloys and have never been happy with the results.




people on the motorcycle forum, explained how they removed the yellowing aluminum annodizing off thier aluminum parts , then finished with JUST a wax coating. i attermpted this feat, and even after a year, the aluminum that had its plastic stripped, polished, and waxed as the final step, is still in very nice shape. wax can usually remove the oxidations if the wax was rubbed off.
BUT
in that situation it doesnt go in my pocket and rub on my keys, its an area where the wax (oxidation stopper) stays just fine, i am happy with how it looks, especially compared to the now yellowing more plastic junk they coated the aluminum with.

almost chrome, but not quite.


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## moeman (Sep 28, 2005)

did you try some really fine sandpaper(500-600+) as the final step before polishing?
i have found that if you do a wet sand before polishing it greatly improves the outcome....


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## bombelman (Sep 28, 2005)

What's powdercoat it ??

Links/pics ?


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## StoneDog (Sep 28, 2005)

Moeman,

No, I haven't tried sanding. I basically stripped the HA3 and then took it to the buffing wheel. I will try sanding as my original intent was to just have a bare Al body.

I checked out the caswell plating links. I could get their smallest EN kit, but that would cost me at least $100, more if I go with the zincate pre-treatment. Unless I start offering an EN service here on CPF it's not a cost effective option.

Finally, powder coat? Is there a DIY powder coat solution? I'm also worried that it would inhibit heat dissipation.

Jon


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## Jumpmaster (Sep 28, 2005)

Yeah, true...I hadn't thought about that...(heat dissipation)...people powdercoat engine parts VERY often, so I know the heat from the light wouldn't damage the powdercoating...but whether it would restrict heat dissipation, I'm not certain. The online help at caswell might be able to answer that better...

Here are some pics of a yoyo I did...










Yeah, I was figuring the nickel-plate kit might be sort of high for one piece...didn't know if you might be open to doing a batch at a time for CPF'ers or thought maybe another CPF'er might find it useful.

Good luck, whichever route you go!

JM-99


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## StoneDog (Sep 28, 2005)

JumpMaster, PM sent regarding the powdercoat. 

I'm not sure I want to get into the EN plating business here on CPF. Sure would hate to convince the wife to buy into a $200 kit and then not have any takers.  On the other hand, if it takes off it might be kind of fun.


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## GJW (Sep 28, 2005)

Cool yo-yo.
Which model is that?
AXL Elite?
I've been out of the yo-yo world for about 4 years now but I might like to get some of mine powder-coated.


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## StoneDog (Sep 28, 2005)

l just talked with a sales guy from Caswell.  They have an 880 Aluminum Chromate product that might work. According to him it should work fine after a quick dip in Greased Lightning or similar. Has anyone tried this? 

Jon


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## Jumpmaster (Sep 28, 2005)

GJW: It's a one-of-a-kind I bought from someone on skilltoys.net...Frank Difeo did a little work on it and it plays really well. Not quite as heavy as my other aluminum yo's though.

I just did one for a nice fellow in NJ...it's a Dif-e-yo Wideload -- same color. Looks really great. He sent me an Oxygene 4 to play with and it is REALLY nice. I must have one of these. Very expensive though...there were only 200 made, IIRC.



StoneDog said:


> l just talked with a sales guy from Caswell. They have an 880 Aluminum Chromate product that might work. According to him it should work fine after a quick dip in Greased Lightning or similar. Has anyone tried this?
> 
> Jon



PM sent on the powdercoating...

The Greased Lightning works great...stripped the HA off my LSH really well. It's not really a "quick" dip though...mine took about 40 minutes...checked, washed off the crud, then another dunk for about 20 (I think...)...doesn't etch the metal either.

Is the 880 Aluminum Chromate basically a chroming kit? If so, that would look really sweet...

JM-99


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## StoneDog (Sep 28, 2005)

The description is a little vague:

"_880 Aluminum Chromate gives a light iridescent yellow to brown chromate finish for aluminum. _
_Produces the maximum corrosion resistance for chromate finishes on aluminum alloys. Meets Mil-C-5541-A. Provides excellent protection for aluminum surfaces and also serves as a base which inhibits undercoat corrosion of organic top coats._"

Granted, I'm a total newb with this sort of thing, but it sounds promising. 

From what I gather Mil-C-5541-A has to do with corrosion resistance, not necessarily impact or wear resistance so there's no telling how durable it is. It might wear off easily.

It's only about $30 for a bottle - it might be worth a shot. Powder coat would be pretty cool too...

Jon


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## Vee3 (Sep 29, 2005)

Aluminum Chromate, Alodine, Irridite, and whatever other names similar Chromate conversion coatings are named are not durable at all. One of these coatings is what you see on the inside of SF lights. They provide corrosion resistance while still maintaining electrical and thermal condictivity (Unlike anodizing), but not any kind of wear resistance.


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## HarryN (Sep 29, 2005)

As noted, the chromate finishes are easily damaged.

I know this is pretty low tech, but I have had some luck with mylar tape. It is used to make r/c airplane wings and sold at good hobby stores. It comes in a variety of colors, and is pretty tough.

It does show EVERY wrinkle / ledge so plan on practicing a few times, but removing it is not difficult,

Another option would be a baked enamel spray paint, such as engine or grill paint. It certainly is not as tough as HA III but you can easily fix it at home. The loss of thermal conductivity to your hand for thin coatings like this is nominal.


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## StoneDog (Sep 29, 2005)

Well, chromate is definitely out. 

I'm going to give it another shot with the buffing wheel. I only have one wheel and a limited assortmet of compounds, but I should be able to make some improvements.

Here it is in its raw state:






I'll post another pic when I'm done polishing.

Jon


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## StoneDog (Oct 1, 2005)

After reading Caswell Plating's polishing forum (thanks JM!) I put on some gloves and really jammed the pieces into the buffing wheel. After some work I was rewarded with a nice, shiny mirror finished light:






I'm going to leave the pocket clip off - it just doesn't look right anymore. FWIW I also put a Wiz2 937, UYOK emitter, IMS 20mm reflector and custom copper heatsink in there. It puts out a WALL of light. 

Jon


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## moeman (Oct 1, 2005)

now that is sexy!!!
so, how long are you going to keep it? :naughty: 
you will use it, of course?!?!?!
thanks for sharing!
chris


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## moeman (Oct 1, 2005)

you know, i honestly like both: the before and after finishes!


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## StoneDog (Oct 1, 2005)

Chris,

I would've been happy with the etched SF finish had it matched the Vital Gear body. As they were, they did not match (therefore my search for a DIY finish of some sort). Now they are basically identical. I'm not sure how well bare Al holds up, but if it is anything like carbon steel the mirror polish will afford at least a very minor amount of protection against corrosion. 

This one will probably be a shelf queen. I think I've put about $140 into the light and at this point it probably makes sense just to hold on to it. But, I'm still searching for the perfect 2x123 EDC... Now if only I had the tools to chase the threads in SF E2e head like Chop has done. 

Jon


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## LowWorm (Oct 1, 2005)

bombelman said:


> Try Airbrushing !
> 
> I did it with my Canon Digital Rebel !!
> 
> ...



Wow, that's a great idea, bombelman! That Canon looks great. How durable is airbrushing? Would you have to coat it with something afterward?

I like how Stone Dog's finish work turned out - very professional. Wish I had the know-how to do the same to my lights, it's a very neat effect.


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## TomBrown (Oct 1, 2005)

StoneDog said:


> No, I haven't tried sanding. I basically stripped the HA3 and then took it to the buffing wheel. I will try sanding as my original intent was to just have a bare Al body.



You might consider sanding it out to 1200 and shooting it with a rattle can of clear urethane.

Paint wont stick to a polished surface so the 1200 sanding is about as fine as you'll want to go. It will look shiney and fabulous.

The thing with urethane is that, while it's no where near as tough as HAAII, you can sand it out and touch it up any time you like.


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## Jumpmaster (Oct 1, 2005)

Jon, that is just beautiful...all you should need to do is apply a good quality carbuba wax to prevent oxidation...should shine it up even better.

For a "wet" polish before doing that, I have had good success with Mother's Aluminum Mag Polish...the Mother's "Billet" polish is good too, though more expensive -- and for some reason, the regular "red jar" of Mother's seems to work better for me. So get some of that, finish polish with that (I would do this by hand, but the wheel may work also) and then rinse well and seal with the carnuba wax.

Great job!!! Glad Caswell's website came through for you! I have found much useful information there!

JM-99


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