Surefire Lego?

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ElectronGuru said:
Its rather trippy in person. You start off with the normal yellow looking like yellow. But as you watch the florescent yellow, the normal yellow seems to change to a mustard and eventually to what looks like tan.

Its like with spicy food overwhelming taste buds until flavors go away. The 'florescentness' seems to overwhelm your yellow receptors, washing out the yellow in your eyesight. As with taste, the effect is temporary.
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Nice analogy, its very strong and will definitely stand out above everything in your FOV, which is its intended purpose, specially with the reflective stickers.

in a "rescue me" scenario, it would definitely be the host to have.
 
Success!! Lego history has been made. For a while I have tested and proven that KL5 and Kroma lens retaining rings are compatible. I had a hypothesis that the U2 would be the same. But i dont own a U2. But Since the OD of the bezel is the same across all three lights: L5, K2, & U2.

Given this hypothesis, it had been my dream to "Porcupine" a Kroma. Thanks to Jason on the MP I have found a U2 Porcupine spiked bezel ring.

It fits the Kroma bezel and KL5. I cannot post pics at the moment but will try to get some up ASAP.
 
Here are the pictures.

This Porcupine bezel ring is a LOT sharper than my L6-PK and the least sharp of all is the Bugout Gear Jetbeam bezel on my C2 Taurus.

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Here it is on the KL5
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That's very cool, especially on the K2.

You don't see Porcupine bezels coming up for sale on their own very often :)

Regards,
Tempest
 
Tempest UK said:
That's very cool, especially on the K2.

You don't see Porcupine bezels coming up for sale on their own very often :)

Regards,
Tempest
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Are you stalking me? haha I jsut posted that and you replied.

anyway, yeah you are right. I have always wanted to try this combo out. But I didnt feel like paying out the money for an entire U2 Porcupine. Since all I care about is the business end.

According to Jason, who I bought it from, he got this from someone who is in SF R&D. Chances of another Porcupine Bezel on its own is slim and none.

I had always kept this idea in my mind. I was actually thinking of having one made from scratch by a machinst. but the amount of labor and CAD to make the design would be almost as much as the real light.

So I am happy that I was at the right place at the right time with the right ideas for this unique piece of SF lego.
 
Solscud007 said:
Are you stalking me? haha I jsut posted that and you replied.

anyway, yeah you are right. I have always wanted to try this combo out. But I didnt feel like paying out the money for an entire U2 Porcupine. Since all I care about is the business end.

According to Jason, who I bought it from, he got this from someone who is in SF R&D. Chances of another Porcupine Bezel on its own is slim and none.

I had always kept this idea in my mind. I was actually thinking of having one made from scratch by a machinst. but the amount of labor and CAD to make the design would be almost as much as the real light.

So I am happy that I was at the right place at the right time with the right ideas for this unique piece of SF lego.
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I like the sharklike bezel on the 3P parts. I have seen some used on KL4 bezels too, but don't know where to get one.

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novice said:
I'm going to put together what Electronguru just posted (just bought one of his canary yellow fluorescent G3 bodies), but I'm going to use an SF G2L yellow aluminum bezel I just bought here on the CPF marketplace, then add a Malkoff M60LL drop-in, and run it off 2XAA lithium primaries. I wouldn't have known about this possibility of running SFs off of AA cells if it had not been for the brethren (and sistren?) here who have posted threads about this possibility in the past (thank you). FWIW, if you are going to try something similar, most of you already know that you don't really need an aluminum bezel to use the Malkoff M60LL, but they don't come up that often, and I thought it would be fun to get one.
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I am using an old school (round body) 9P with two AA alkaline batteries and a Lumen Factory D26 3.7V Special tint drop in. This combination provides more throw than the M60LL with a warm tint. The LF drop in cost is $28.00. I use a half inch drip system tube which is available at any hardware store cut to the proper length as a insert to prevent battery rattle. This tubing outside diameter and outside diameter is perfect. The tubing is a press fit into the flashlight tube and the AA battery is a slip fit into the drip system tubing. I paid 7 cents for a six inch length of tubing. I really like this setup!
 
I just finished my latest Surefire Lego. Well almost, there´s still a nailbender SST-50 D36 dropin en route.

Surefire Z46, FiveMega 1x18650 c-M Body, Surefire Lanyardring, Novatac EDC Clip, Ganp Tailcap:

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Here is a true SF HA 3P (well as close as possible) All parts are 100% original SF parts. no custom annodizing.

Left=3P TypeII
Right= Lego 3P TypeIII




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angelofwar said:
Here it is...a 6Z w/ A19 and an A20 with a Malkoff M60F

How it's carried (6Z w/ A19 and A20):

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Or 3 Cells (6Z + A19) for longer runtime:

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Or 2 cells, (Stock 6Z) if that's all you have...

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The good thing about the 6Z is it can be mounted to an M78 or an M79 mount, due to the cut down body...talk about versatility!
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I though this was the ultimate lego...well, now I have an L60 and an A21 enroute...(thanks dafab), which when paired with this will truly make the ultimate SF lego. So, with only 4 pieces, the light in it's full factor will be:

1. The L60, A21, A19, and A20, running off a B65 w/ Malkoff M60/60L/60F

2. Take the A20 off and run it off 3 primary 123's/2xAA's

3. Take the A19 off, run it on two primaries.

4. Attach the L60 w/ A21 to my 918FA for a 9-Volt weapon light.

5. Attach the L60 w/o A21 to my 918FA for a 6-Volt weapon light.

The Z20 spacer also opens up more options to run it off 2 RCR123's...I'll be able to take this light anywhere and run it off various cell configs, etc. with out have to bring more than one light...not that I would only bring one, but this is the ultimate in flexability! Will post pic's of the different set-ups once I get the other parts in.
 
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