Zebra light sc52 problem survey?

Gather App
Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

american said:
Anyone have one break or stop working? How hard do you use it?
Click to expand...

I've had zero issues with mine and nothing but 100% reliability. I use it a lot but I don't throw it around or drop it or beat on it. I have used it in some heavy-water situations where it has been practically submerged without issues. Use it primarily with IMR 14500's, otherwise Eneloops.

Have you had an issue or are you a potential buyer?
 
Pretty sure the flashlight driver is going to be included under the 10yr "flashlight" warranty. The 1yr "electronics" warranty probably refers to the optional electronic accessories they sell for lights, and I would even argue that includes the drop-ins.

That said, a warranty that requires the additional cost/hassle/wait of shipping to, and dealing with, a China-based Customer Service office, is a borderline disposable..... for me anyways. (Fortunately, no experience from me yet.... just based on some of the horror stories I read here.)
 
My first SC52 was DOA.

No problems with my replacement (but only had it 3 months so not extensive use)
 
I haven't had any issues with my SC52, and I carry it every day. I don't beat on it, but it don't baby it either. It gets thrown in a bag, dropped on the floor semi-often, and has been submerged several times. Two weeks ago, it survived a trip through the washing machine. So far, it hasn't show any sign of failure or hiccups in operation.

I know the warranty is...sub optimal, but considering I really love this light I bought a backup in the event that this one has to go back or decides to die off. Personally...$65 isn't what I would call expensive for a light of this kind. Then again, I can only judge that from my own perspective, so part of me understands that the risk of having a $65 piece die on you is pretty shaky to one's constitution. :D
 
Atleast to me (and true in any field except firearms) DOA is a different issue from other warranty problems. It shouldn't matter what the warranty length is, there is no possible way it's caused by the user, its a clear sign of mfg defects, send it back for replacement.
The only product I buy that I wouldn't tolerate a DOA every now and then is guns, for any other item [flashlight, cell phone, computer, even large appliances] I would simply get it replaced, with a gun, no matter how loyal I may be to glock or colt or browning or whatever brand firearm I'm buying, if I got it new and it was DOA (doesn't even have to be failure to fire, if there is any major problem keeping it from functioning) I'm taking it back for a refund, I don't want that model anymore.
 
my sc52 appears to be fine. maybe at an outside chance... it may have high parasitic drain of the battery? i wouldnt know this as i always lock the tail-cap out.
 
Have a number of zebralights. The only failure was one I bought for my brother, a H51f that died and was replaced by the local retailer under warranty. It would not have been treated gently though, was used every day in harsh conditions.

I have a H51r which has was thrown off my bike at 20kmh onto concrete - first it got launched up into the air, then it fell and got jammed between my spokes and chainstay before being spat out and bouncing along the concrete. And today the same light fell off my bike at 50kmh and was then run over by a car. There's some scratches in the anodising and a few of the cooling fins have depressions in them, but it still works :) I went back and found it in the middle of a traffic lane (busy road) blinking away :)
 
Mine's been perfect in the 4 or so months I've had it with average use (rotation). Hope the SC52w is just as good.
 
I've had mine since they first started shipping the pre ordered ones out late last year, and I've been carrying it every day for about 4-5 months with no mechanical problems, but its UI can be frustrating at times when you need a certain mode in a hurry, and you have to click it just right or you either get high or low instead of medium on the first try. That's not a malfunction, it's just the way the UI is designed.
 
Whew! Finally found a thread to post this in. I do believe I have a SC52 issue. I've had mine for a few days now. Here's the problem...

I have a High, Medium, and Low mode. But, instead of having two sublevels, I have one. I've used different brands of AA batteries (just regular and brand new) and it still doesn't work correct. And when compared to my Fenix LD10 (100 MAX), the High mode is more dim. Any advice?

Edit: Yikes, please disregard the sublevel problem... I was misunderstanding the levels and such. However, the 280 SC52 Lumens still seems more dim than the 100 Fenix LD10 Lumens. Any explanation?
 
Last edited:
Whizkid said:
Whew! Finally found a thread to post this in. I do believe I have a SC52 issue. I've had mine for a few days now. Here's the problem...

I have a High, Medium, and Low mode. But, instead of having two sublevels, I have one. I've used different brands of AA batteries (just regular and brand new) and it still doesn't work correct. And when compared to my Fenix LD10 (100 MAX), the High mode is more dim. Any advice?

Edit: Yikes, please disregard the sublevel problem... I was misunderstanding the levels and such. However, the 280 SC52 Lumens still seems more dim than the 100 Fenix LD10 Lumens. Any explanation?
Click to expand...

Have you been aiming the light at the wall and looking directly at the center of the reflection (the "hot spot") ? If you do that, a focused beam will be brighter than a more diffused one, even if the light that produces the diffused beam emits more light. I'm sure someone who is more knowledgeable and more suited for the job will chime in and explain the difference between lux and lumen, but in the meantime, you could try this: aim your lights at the ceiling, one at a a time, and try to estimate how well the entire room is lit up, or look at something in the corner of the room. That should give you a better sense of the total amount of light emitted.

You will not perceive the difference between 100 lumens and 280 lumens as you would the difference between driving your car at 100 / 280 kmph, but you should be able to see that the Zebralight is brighter if you do the "ceiling bounce", as it's often referred to here.

One more thing, if you want to get the most out of your Zebralight, you probably have to use NiMH cells rather than alkalines. A fresh alkaline should give you the max output for a short while though, but output will start to drop within minutes.
 
Swede74 said:
Have you been aiming the light at the wall and looking directly at the center of the reflection (the "hot spot") ? If you do that, a focused beam will be brighter than a more diffused one, even if the light that produces the diffused beam emits more light. I'm sure someone who is more knowledgeable and more suited for the job will chime in and explain the difference between lux and lumen, but in the meantime, you could try this: aim your lights at the ceiling, one at a a time, and try to estimate how well the entire room is lit up, or look at something in the corner of the room. That should give you a better sense of the total amount of light emitted.

You will not perceive the difference between 100 lumens and 280 lumens as you would the difference between driving your car at 100 / 280 kmph, but you should be able to see that the Zebralight is brighter if you do the "ceiling bounce", as it's often referred to here.

One more thing, if you want to get the most out of your Zebralight, you probably have to use NiMH cells rather than alkalines. A fresh alkaline should give you the max output for a short while though, but output will start to drop within minutes.
Click to expand...


Nice response, thanks. I have been aiming both lights at the wall and judging it that way. I did the ceiling bounce and noticed the SC52 illuminated the room just a tad better. But I still don't see where those extra 180 lumens are going... that seems like a lot of light I'm just not seeing. Could tint have any factor here? The SC52 looks much warmer compared to the LD10.
 
Mine's working great. Only thing I've ever noticed is that the tailcap has to be a little tighter than I'd expect. It goes into lockout with just a tiny turn.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top