What was the last LED light you purchased and why?

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

nice! If possible, be careful with the solder wick...It could fall apart if messed with enough, and leave thin strands of copper that could short things that shouldn't be shorted...
good warning.. might be prudent to put a bit of solder on the ends of the solder wick, so they dont fray.

It is still in the testing phase, but the solder wick spacer and KR1AA clip are working so well, Im inclined to keep them installed.

Im keeping the tail closed and changing batteries through the head. I prefer not to open the tail, so the clip stays tight all the time...

The light has been 100% reliable, no contact issues, no spinning clip issues.

I have not even had any pocket activations with the flat metal switch..

I do have Turbo disabled, and ceiling lowered to 100/150, just in case. If it did come on in pocket and ramped all the way up, it would not go over 300 lumens.. pretty sure that wont burn a pocket..
 
Last edited:
good warning.. might be prudent to put a bit of solder on the ends of the solder wick, so they dont fray.

It is still in the testing phase, but the solder wick spacer and KR1AA clip are working so well, Im inclined to keep them installed.

Im keeping the tail closed and changing batteries through the head. I prefer not to open the tail, so the clip stays tight all the time...

The light has been 100% reliable, no contact issues, no spinning clip issues.

I have not even had any pocket activations with the flat metal switch..

I do have Turbo disabled, and ceiling lowered to 100/150, just in case. If it did come on in pocket and ramped all the way up, it would not go over 300 lumens.. pretty sure that wont burn a pocket..
perhaps a thin spacer/*shim washer? Let me look around if I can find something suitable
 
good warning.. might be prudent to put a bit of solder on the ends of the solder wick, so they dont fray.

It is still in the testing phase, but the solder wick spacer and KR1AA clip are working so well, Im inclined to keep them installed.

Im keeping the tail closed and changing batteries through the head. I prefer not to open the tail, so the clip stays tight all the time...

The light has been 100% reliable, no contact issues, no spinning clip issues.

I have not even had any pocket activations with the flat metal switch..

I do have Turbo disabled, and ceiling lowered to 100/150, just in case. If it did come on in pocket and ramped all the way up, it would not go over 300 lumens.. pretty sure that wont burn a pocket..
Would a thin gauge solid wire work, 1 wind around a 14mm-14.5mm cylinder? if you have calipers or a micrometer, you could check the thickness of the clip (if the tail closes all the way) then select the solid core wire gauge you need to fill the void (and take up play)
 
good idea..
a copper washer would work too,
if you figure out what size works, please share info

I dont have either of those things, but I do have solder wick ;-)
hope this helps a little lol...
0.033(4)"
3137.jpg


ALSO, just thought about this...copper might not be so good because of galvanic corrosion...
 
Last edited:
thank you for explaining how things work for you in Europe
Im very lucky here in USA

I only pay the price shown on Hanks site..
nothing is added after it arrives.

My most recent purchase is a Polished Silver Dual Channel D3AA w NTG35 4200K and Red with metal button, magnet and clip, for $48 delivered..

Im really enjoying it with a fully captive clip from a KR1AA:
View attachment 96794

For whatever reasons, the NTG35 4200K in the D3AA, have slightly higher CCT and slightly lower DUV, than the NTG50 4200K in my KR1AA.. notice the difference between where the dots land on this spectrum plot:
View attachment 96789
Thanks for posting this, I might try this myself sometime, but I'll definitely add some vaseline to the wick braid, because I think it can get oxidized during time otherwise.
 
I hope you enjoy the KR1AA clip option.

Fwiw Vaseline does not conduct electricity.

But it will probably get scraped out of the way from the pressure of closing the tailcap. No harm in trying.
 
Last edited:
Just doing a little prep work for the summer outages and fire season here on the west coast.

Was at walmart and saw this headlamp - I think it was ~ $25.

Bought one for my son to use. It is USB charged, which is really handy since he has USB all over already, and we can charge anything USB using a nominal 12 volt / 100 watt solar panel and this USB port.

He charged it up, but I don't think has used it yet.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2026-07-17 at 19-01-20 Energizer High Lumen Hybrid LED Headlamp 1200 Lumens Recharg...png
    Screenshot 2026-07-17 at 19-01-20 Energizer High Lumen Hybrid LED Headlamp 1200 Lumens Recharg...png
    362.4 KB
  • Screenshot 2026-07-17 at 19-00-54 Energizer High Lumen Hybrid LED Headlamp 1200 Lumens Recharg...png
    Screenshot 2026-07-17 at 19-00-54 Energizer High Lumen Hybrid LED Headlamp 1200 Lumens Recharg...png
    180.9 KB
  • Screenshot 2026-07-17 at 19-08-12 12_24V DC Dual USB Charger 4.8A with Intelligent Device Reco...png
    Screenshot 2026-07-17 at 19-08-12 12_24V DC Dual USB Charger 4.8A with Intelligent Device Reco...png
    456.7 KB

Latest posts

Back
Top