Shop Nerd tricks, tips and tools

McGizmo

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Hi guys,

I remember when I first proposed this forum to Sasha and the admin that I thought it would be a nice place to keep the 3M's of its scope apart from the modding forum itself and a place for those working with machining and materials to share ideas and information. The forum has really taken off and there are so many CPF members who have been introduced to the subject and gotten into the smell of cutting fluid as well as so many new members coming on board who are expert in these fields that it certainly has become a great place!! :bow: :thumbsup:

This forum is about DIY but at levels of complexity and specialties that go well beyond the scope of the local hardware and tool store.

In the shop, we often need a tool or material handling system that is not readily available or something we know about. With our own ingenuity and needs coupled with what is on hand, we find solutions.

I think it might be cool and useful if we can share some of these solutions and ideas with each other.

I'll start with a few ideas I have come up with that have served me well and some may have merit for some of you.

I find that organization is always a requirement and temporary storage of some of the components, especially if you are working with multiples, can be a challenge in itself. I have identified two storage trays that have served me quite well and they stack nicely. One is the plastic lid from the Costco plastic jars of nuts. The other is the rectangular sushi trays that the sushi at the grocery comes in. Of course the commercial size egg crates are a must but I don't know where you can get them. I have a whole bunch of them because I used to get brass parts from a shop in NY and they used them exclusively for packing the parts in shipment.

Since I assemble my own light engines and I need lead wires for input as well as output from the converters, I need a bunch of lead wires all cut to similar length. This can be tedious when you want to have a hundred or two of one color on hand. I found that I could put my lathe on its slowest RPM and wind the wire on a rod or tube of appropriate diameter. While the wire is still wrapped and wound tight on the bar (Think of the thread on a fishing rod), I take a strip of tape down the length of the bar that holds the tape in place. I take a sharp razor and cut a line along the z axis through the tape and wire. This leaves me with a whole bunch of "C" shaped sections of wire all the same length and ready to serve as lead wires.

A lot of my bench tools have vacuum inputs and if I am going to do any extensive cutting or sanding/ grinding, I am willing to take the time to hook up the vacuum to the tool. I find myself at times using the flexible shaft or a hand file a lot and the dust from them is also something nice to catch from the get go. One of my vacuum attachments has a taper to a reduced and rectangular input. The kind for sucking out of cracks and such. I drilled a hole through it, perpendicular to the air flow so that I could put a #10 screw through it. On the edge of my work bench close to where I sit at it, I drilled a hole into the wood and I can mount the vacuum nozzle to the edge of the bench. I have a formed piece of screen that can slip over the front and serve as a grate in case the parts I am working on are tiny and could pass through the vacuum. (how many unwanted items have you sucked away in your vacuum! :D)

A final entry here is on dental tools. If you don't have a set of dental pics and chisels and other things that they use (heaven knows what for) you are missing out on some cool stuff!! Same goes for the jewelery trade.

So what shop tricks, tips and tools have you happened upon?
 

precisionworks

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Great idea, Don:thumbsup: Perhaps the moderators will sticky this, as it should be a really useful thread.

One thing I've found is that it pays to take the time to make a dedicated fixture for parts that are often run. This might apply to boring aluminum soft jaws that fit a specific Surefire head, or some other unique part. I make soft jaws for the mill vise from aluminum if the part runs often, or from hard maple if the part runs infrequently. These are made by drilling out first with a hole saw, followed by boring with the boring head. Split the block on the table saw & they're ready to use.

For really odd parts, especially one offs, V-blocks are worth their weight in gold. The photos below show a wing strut from a McLaren CanAm race car. The owner said he had the car insured for $1.5M, so this was a job where no mistake could be made:eek:


Initial set up using large V-blocks, small V-blocks, step clamps & spacers
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View of the bore after first roughing pass
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Getting close to final ID (note cold air blower tip on left)
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Erickson Tenthset head, so you can easily dial in almost nothing (.00005")
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Blake Co-Ax indicator, which doesn't see lots of use but was nice for this job. A conventional dial test indicator would have worked, just more slowly.
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Not the hardest job in the world, as long as the right tools are available.
 

darkzero

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I couldn't agree more on the dental picks. I have a case full of them but there are three specific ones I can't live without.

"One can never have too many tools" & I agree with this saying. I've got tools that I've never even used yet or have only used once. Being a former auto "mechanic" I ended up with a nice set of tools that should last me a lifetime. Was expensive buying from the tool trucks but in the end well worth. Most of them don't apply to flashlight modding though of course. Being here has made me purchase a lot more tools that I would probably never use again if I left here.

Here's one tool that I've been using ever since I joined here, one of my most used & favorite tool:

Img_1622.jpg


Maybe I'll post some more later.
 

Dan FO

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I have 12 different shapes and sizes of hemostats and use them all the time for assorted tasks.
 

McGizmo

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Darkzero,
That engravers vise reminds me of the gravers block vise that I have. I haven't used it much lately but what a great work holder! Daily I use my third hand:

NogaHand-2.jpg


I have also found great utility in silicone kitchen tools and teflon tools as they are impervious to heat in soldering and heated up components.

I can't tell you how useful the plastic stir sticks that come with the Arctic Epoxy kits are or for that matter, a good round, ball headed tooth pick!!
 

Anglepoise

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My most valued lathe tool is a 5" Kitigawa 3 jaw scroll chuck.
It is accurate through it's range of adjustment and I want to keep it that way.
To stop chips, dirt etc from getting into the exposed jaws and scroll, I keep a piece of round foam as a bung in the chuck through hole. Flush with the face of the chuck, it expands and contracts automatically as the jaws adjust and does not interfere with most clamping situations. Easily removed for boring.



DSCN0524.jpg
 
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DaFABRICATA

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Heres my simple little set-up.

The jewelers vise' really make things a lot easier to work with.
The loc-line also helps out at times.
I'll be making a nicer stand this summer.

009-25.jpg
 

precisionworks

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Sometimes, a special size twist drill is needed to adjust the thread percentage of a tap. Thread forming taps always use slightly larger holes than thread cutting taps. The photos show a slightly over sized drill bit being reduce to the needed size.


Twist drill held in 5C collet in spin index
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It takes two or three light passes to hit final diameter. I check with a Mitu electronic mic that reads to .00001", so it isn't hard to sneak up on the final diameter.
attachment.php
 

darkzero

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Don, I really like those magnectic bases you have there. They look like the expensive ones? Are those made to use with lathes or whatever? I've got a cheap HF one to hold a dial guage that I used when assembling engines. I guess I can use if for the lathe now.


The jewelers vise' really make things a lot easier to work with.


I forgot about that handle! I never used it though, wonder where mine is? Doesn't matter I can't use it anymore. I had the the square machined off on mine. I like it so much better without it. I find it more useful being able to lat flat on my bench & I highly recommend it.

Img_1626.jpg
 

G1K

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May 19, 2006
Messages
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I'm not sure what kind of bases Don has, but Noga manufactures probably the best base I've used, it blows the HF unit out of the water, but it's priced accordingly.

**Edit, looks like Don's bases may be made by Noga
R
 

mdocod

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Harbor freight sells some great yellow and grey colored multi-bin organizers. I have 5 or 6 of them last I checked to organize all the screws and nuts and copper pieces I need on hand for both production and prototyping. They sell 2 versions, one with a few large deep bins, the other with many smaller shallower bins, but they are both built surprisingly well. IIRC the smaller shallower one costs around $8, but they are well worth it. I forecast a few more of them in my near future as I have filled all of the bins and am desperately scrounging for more storage solutions.

This one is probably pretty obvious to many of you but is new to me and I am really liking them so far:
US made [read quality] screw machine length drill bits: If you don't need deep holes in something, these "stub" length drill bits run far more true than jobber length drills, especially in the smaller sizes. I was really frustrated with my jobber length chinese #30 and smaller drills as they always ran with a wobble at the end of em. The shorter length of the screw machine bits also cuts down on the need for as much clearance between the tool head and part for swapping tooling.

Something I am planning on doing but haven't done yet: Set up an old computer in the garage with internet access. This would allow me to go straight from working on something and being reminded I need to order something, to being able to add it to a wish-list or shopping cart somewhere. Also, one could confine their drill/tap charts to the computer if desired. Access to online triangle calculators and other java based math/trig tools is potentially more convenient than doing it by hand.
 

McGizmo

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Will,
Yes, the magnetic bases are Noga. I am quite fond of the Noga arms and the bases seem to be the standard copied by many as well. Below is an old pic of a Noga arm that mounted directly to an Olympus stereo mic I had:

U2-Microscope.jpg
 

LLCoolBeans

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www.littlemachineshop.com carries the Chinese versions of those magnetic bases. They are worth their weight in gold. I'm sure your Noga bases are better, but I have had NO issue with the copies. They work very well, I'm planning on ordering some more.

regular...
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2880&category=

and mini...
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2029&category=

EDIT: I should mention that I have not tried the regular size, I have the mini. I assume the regular size to be of the same quality, but you never know.
 
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Anglepoise

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Where Noga excels is in the articulated arms. These are 'the best' and lock ( and stay ) in any position with a gentle twist of the knob.
Made in Israel and on Ebay around $50 new.
 

darkzero

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Where can I buy one of these little vices, looks good for holding PCBs for soldering:D
Better not to spoil this sticky, info via PM :thanks:

I purchased mine from Micro Mark back in 2003. I paid like $30. It's called the Universal Vise. They now have Chinese versions of them that can be bought for $15 or less. NitroZ recently posted on where you could purchase the cheaper versions. McMaster also sells them but at the higher price so I assume theirs are the made in India ones as well like the one I have. You can also find them on ebay if you search for jewler's vise.



Will,
Yes, the magnetic bases are Noga. I am quite fond of the Noga arms and the bases seem to be the standard copied by many as well. Below is an old pic of a Noga arm that mounted directly to an Olympus stereo mic I had:

Very nice. Thanks for the info Don. Looks like I will have to get me some Nogas too. Your bench reminds me of pics that I've seen of PKs office. Stuff everywhere yet I bet you still know where everything is located when needed. Hope my bench gets like that someday! Hmm or perhaps maybe that might be something to look foward too? :candle:

I do my builds in my room which has become my workshop. So much stuff piled up that I don't even sleep in my own bed anymore. Hmm, wonder what it feels like to sleep in my own bed? :laughing:
 

LLCoolBeans

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Where Noga excels is in the articulated arms. These are 'the best' and lock ( and stay ) in any position with a gentle twist of the knob.
Made in Israel and on Ebay around $50 new.

The Chinese ones have the same articulating arms, that's what makes them so great. Loosen one screw position in any position imaginable, then re-tighten the screw to lock in place. You mention a "gentle twist" with the real Noga version. That may be where the main difference lies and where the Noga excels. The Chinese copy requires some moderate force to lock down, definitely more than a gentle twist, but it's still very useful.

I'll have to find a Noga for myself just to try one out.
 
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