Ra Twisty

[txmatt]

A quick turnaround time datapoint...

ordered my TW100 on 5/1 and received today, 6/10.

Gotta call Battery Station tomorrow because I didn't receive the Battery Caddy with 4 batteries.

 

[SaturnNyne]

The B60LE and U60 I have draws about 1.16-1.2A.
My B42 draws 1.3-1.4A.
Level 2 is about the same at about 730-740mA across all the 3 lights.
It's amazing that at levels lower than 13 the DMM can't read anymore. So it's less than 10mA. It's drawing around 30mA at around Level 10, amazing.

Very interesting, thank you. Those amazingly low levels are definitely a big part of what makes these lights so wonderful.

 

[paxxus]

Yep, that's right... When doing the red runtime test, the diode just kept getting dimmer and dimmer and dimmer.. No blinking at all... However, when doing the 85lm runtime test, once the battery became drained enough the low-battery alert would blink twice about every minute or two... If i switched to low red, then it would hold steady, no blinking.

I have reproduced the white-blinks-on-red situation. It happens when the low-batt blinks have started on max and you then go to red WITHOUT first turning the light off. If you turn the light off and then on to red no blinking on red happens.

I used the Duracell I used for the runtime test.

1. Switch on to max. The light did two step-downs before output stabilized.
2. The lo-batt blinks now happened while on max.
3. Switch to med, the lo-batt blinks now stopped since the med level was lower than the stepped-down max.
4. Switched to red, the white lo-batt blinks now happened.
5. Switched off.
6. Switched on to red, the lo-batt blinks didn't happen anymore.

It seems like you did about the same thing but didn't get the white blinks on red, but are you sure you didn't first turn off the light?

Anyway, a very small glitch - if you already have used white your night-vision is already spoiled anyway.

Edit: In all this I'm referring to the lo-batt blink that happens once a minute or so.

 

[Enzo Morocioli]

are you sure you didn't first turn off the light?
Anyway, a very small glitch - if you already have used white your night-vision is already spoiled anyway.

Using the same procedure you mentioned except that I switched from High which was blinking once a second, directly to Red, which still blinked once a second. I was using a batterystation primary. At the time, there was no visual indication that my medium and high were any different; the battery was very exhausted. I'm 100% certain I didn't turn the Twisty off before switching to red..

Strange glitch indeed... We need more of a data pool! Twisty owners, give us your data! I know for a fact there are 54 of you lurking around!

 

[paxxus]

Using the same procedure you mentioned except that I switched from High which was blinking once a second, directly to Red, which still blinked once a second.

Ahh, that's no good. I'm talking about the lo-batt blink that happens once a minute or so. When the batt is very low and you get the once a second blink, my light doesn't blink white while on red either.

 

[Enzo Morocioli]

Ahh, that's no good. I'm talking about the lo-batt blink that happens once a minute or so. When the batt is very low and you get the once a second blink, my light doesn't blink white while on red either.

Dang... alright... I've got plenty of mostly depleted cells.. I'll run another one of them down, wait for High to exhibit the double-blink every minute, then switch to Red, and see if it double blinks white while holding constant Red.

Sound like a better test?

 

[paxxus]

Dang... alright... I've got plenty of mostly depleted cells.. I'll run another one of them down, wait for High to exhibit the double-blink every minute, then switch to Red, and see if it double blinks white while holding constant Red.

Sound like a better test?

Yep that should trigger it.

I'd like to add that I find this VERY small glitch totally harmless - we're really splitting hairs here

 

[Enzo Morocioli]

Yep that should trigger it.

I'd like to add that I find this VERY small glitch totally harmless - we're really splitting hairs here

Haha.. Splitting hairs indeed!!

Not to sink your boat or anything paxxus, but...... my 85tr double-blinks red.... no night-vision ruining for me... but i wonder why it would be different? Like I said... we need more data...

 

[paxxus]

EDIT: Well out of curiosity I switched to white, and it came on very dimly. I swtched to high white, which came on pretty dim... I then switched the twisty off, and now none of the levels will return..... WHOA as i am typing this, the twisty has begun randomly flashing rapidly even when completely turned to the off position!! If I try to switch it on, it goes completely out but if i switch it off, it starts flashing like a drunk strobe light! The strobe looks like 85lm!

Mine just did this too while running very dimly on the almost depleted Duracell that came with the light. Suddenly it started flashing randomly and VERY brightly even when off!

Somehow this reminds me of the HAL computer from "2001"

Edit: To be fair, even my old HDS didn't turn on at all with this cell, so this time the Ra managed to expend all the juice. Anyway, enough of this foolishness with running on dead cells

 

[this_is_nascar]

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

 

[sbebenelli]

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

I choose the white low for two reasons.

1. I wanted the wider beam. I prefer floody lights over spot.

2. I never have cared for colored lights. I prefer white low over red. Just my preference.

 

[gswitter]

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

Red.

I wanted a narrow beam, but it wasn't clear to me if the 70-T and 70-Tr were the same light with different factory setting, or if the red was really only available in the 70-Tr. I figured I could always switch the 70-Tr to a white low (which I did) if I didn't find the red useful, and there was no point turning down a feature if the price was the same. My needs might change at some point and I might want the red.

Kind of a moot point now, since they dropped the factory configured narrow-beam-w/white-low model. It you want a little more throw, go with the narrow beam. If you want more flood, go with wider beam.

I have both a 100-T and an 85-Tr, and IMO, the difference in beam profile is noticeable, but subtle. You can't go wrong with either one.

 

[FrogmanM]

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

Already have a low white on my NovaTac, wanted to try something different I suppose, so low red for me!

Mayo

 

[Enzo Morocioli]

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

I chose Red, obviously.

My reasoning for the choice is that I feel I notice the difference between red wavelength and white wavelength light when the environment is very dark.. Especially because the twisty can't be "immediately" customized, I tend to keep the two white levels somewhere around .47lm and 85lm, and rely on Red for my low-low light tasks.

 

[gottawearshades]

I chose white.

I have never liked using red-lense/red-LED flashlights. It seems to make everything muddy, at least in my experience.

After using a NovaTac for a while, I find a super-low setting essential for any light. I prefer a dim white light to red, so I can SEE things and also not kill my night vision. I used to always carry something like an Infinity or a Photon-type light for this reason.

So, I chose the 70-tw because I like dim white, I liked the idea of a tighter beam, and if the whole point of the Twisty is top be the most reliable flashlight in history, I might as well get the "ultra-reliable" Twisty.

As I've been using it more, btw, I've come to like the beam on this light more and more.:thumbsup: It's a little on the cool-blue side, but you don't notice that if you're using it to actually see something.

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

 

[Oddjob]

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

I chose the one with the low white for two reasons. First, I have never liked using red light for anything and second, in the initial descriptions Henry wrote that the 100TW would have a very similar beam as the HDS which I liked.

 

[seery]

Henry has brought to market an absolutely amazing light, perfection in design and execution.

Spent an hour out in the woods and fields tonight with the 120P and my new Ra Twisty 120-T.
Here are just a few random thoughts in comparing the two. Both lights had a fresh 100% ZTS
SF123 cell. I've had (5) NovaTac 120P's for comparison, this one has the nicest beam of the five.


- The Ra 120-T has a less defined hot spot. The 120P has a nice transition beam, but the 120-T
is much better.
- The Ra 120-T is brighter. Several times I illuminated distant objects and quizzed my wife, every
time she picked the 120-T as being brighter.
- The Ra 120-T throws slightly further. If it wasn't for instant side-by-side feedback, it would be
hard to tell though.
- The Ra 120-T tint is very white compared to the warmer tint of the 120P.

I was very pleased to feel the twisty action is firm (my preference).

If the weather is good, tomorrow night I'll take the 120-T snorkeling.

End of random thoughts.

THANKS Henry for the Twisty. :twothumbs

 

[UnderTheWeepingMoon]

For those of you that have the Twisty, did you choose the one with the RED low or the WHITE low and what what you're reasoning for that choice?

I bought an 85-Tr because I wanted the option of using the red low, but now, after receiving the light I wish I had ordered the 100-Tr. I find the beam of the Osram to be too narrow for most general indoor tasks and too blue for outdoor use, especially when walking through bushland, which gets rendered like a moonscape. I recommend that if your eyes are sensitive to high colour temps or if you dislike them in any way you should avoid the red models.

 

[this_is_nascar]

Thanks for the feedback. I had ordered the low-white version and should have it on Friday. I too wanted the broader beam. It always seems more useful to me in what I need a light for. In addition, I never found myself caring for the RED beam in my lights that have it.

 

[mightysparrow]

I chose the white low for both my 100-TW and my 85-TW, because: 1) I thought for almost every situation, I am more accustomed to seeing things clearly with white light; and 2)the low factory setting is low enough for me to preserve my night vision for the tasks I do, even with white light.

I could use a red low perhaps, in situations where I would need extreme stealth, or had to light up an aircraft cockpit or other instruments while maintaining as much outward night vision as is possible. Those situations are very unlikely to occur in my life, and if they do, I can re-program the 85-TW to red low.