VidPro
Flashlight Enthusiast
Right. Back to the communication problem again. I never claimed that all drivers will be flat. .
i really think for explainations sake, STARTING with examples of "Good" conversions, or even explaining "perfect" conversions , would be an assett to understanding what is being attempted. THEN showing cruddy inefficient examples AFTER that.
so people can understand the power conversion aspect of it First, in it's most simple terms. Then realise how poorly the power is converted in some junk later. Using the worse case scenarios as an example sorta makes the whole process of doing it at all look rather fruitless :sigh: But more than that it messes with understanding that watts is watts.
i am sort of agreeing with Justin, if you can go with amps and voltage in, and amps and volts out, to get the basic IDEAS of boosting and bucking into the brain first. Lumens gets in the way of understanding the simple concepts of the power conversions trying to be explained.
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Ramifications can be an Assett, everyone always wants the curcuit to Destroy batteries , I dont. automagic slowdowns might be bad for extreeme output to the end, but they are often great for the batteries. :sweat:
At 3.6 volt the driver goes into direct drive and the led output goes dramatically down, this is a very bad sign.
No it is not nessiarily BAD for a driver to cool out on a Li-ion battery when the voltage has dropped to 3.6V. YES it shows that it doesnt regulate down till the battery is turned into Mush
the Perfect driver doesnt ALWAYS have to hit the batteries so hard at the end of thier discharge when they are least likly to be able to cope with the current Increases.
IMO Drivers that ram a li-ion into the ground, or Reverse charge batteries in Series are thoughtless feinds :sick2: unfit for use in any of my lights.
if people INSIST on drivers that take the batteries down Hard at the end of the discharge for them, they are likly to ruin ni-mhy batteries from reverse charge , discharge li-ion cells too low (especially unprotected) , and even End up with Dead reverse charged Alkalines Leaking in thier devices. :tsk:
Having Default cut-offs or slowdowns in a driver used with the right stuff, doesn't really hurt the user , so the light goes down a bit as the battery is depleated,:candle: it still working. Depending on the batteries your using , the light that dims is the light and battery that lives. :rock:
The driver that doesnt know when to slowdown or stop is the dumb one. (oops were we talking about automobiles?) :thinking:
It does have a lot to do with what your looking to get out of a light, but ramifications abound in many of the driver styles and types, what looks good to some, isnt very long term.
Take the example of the Over-voltaged Boost, Nice fat lumens pouring out, as the LED is being tortured and eventually will output less than it did at normal currents. Ohh look its so bright, sure when ramming 2.5A into a 1amp led everything looks golden, for a while.
or the boost curcuit designed for an 2 alklines pulling 3.4Amps at .8v, hey sheer genious the precision of the regulation, sheer ignorance of any battery specs.
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