Zebralight H600F c/d mk3 85cri and XM-L 2?

[markr6]

The battery rattle on the early MKIII is caused by too large of an ID not spring tension and supposedly has already been addressed on future batches.

I hope so! I like my H600w II which is nice and tight...almost too tight. Some identical 18650s don't fit, but I can "shave" the wrapper seam with a razor and it's OK. Talk about tight tolerances! Zero rattle.

 

[Tachead]

On a side note (just read every post of the thread), wasn't aware of the runtime issues on M1 but relieved to read that they're fixed now. The retailer I purchased from had over 20 in stock I think and surely they have the updated firmware. I also like seeing that high is around 4700K which is nice and was afraid the "d" would be borderline cool and highly considered the "c". The BLF A6 I have in 3D tint, by my measurements, is somewhere between 4700-4800K (without the high CRI, mind you) and is about as cool as I want to go with a neutral white.

I agree. My H600Fd MKIII is definitely as cool as I would ever want to go for a neutral white. It is just an ever so slightly yellow pure white with near zero tint shift.

 

[uofaengr]

I agree. My H600Fd MKIII is definitely as cool as I would ever want to go for a neutral white. It is just an ever so slightly yellow pure white with near zero tint shift.

Zero tint shift is big. That A6 has a definite shift to violet in the spill along with my SC52w. One reason I love the beam of my triple Nichia light with frosted optics, and I think (hope) this headlamp is going to very much mimic that beam.

 

[ateupwithgolf]

Didn't read the whole thread, but how many decided on "d" and how many decided on "c" roughly?

 

[BuildingSerenity]

I bought the "d"

 

[MarkF786]

I'm torn myself. I'd like to get my first ZL headlamp and am leaning towards a H600Fc or H600Fd but don't know which I'd prefer. My other ZLs are the standard neutral tint, which seems to be in between the c & d at 4500k.

Does anyone have general recommendations on the best application of each?

Didn't read the whole thread, but how many decided on "d" and how many decided on "c" roughly?

 

[Tachead]

I'm torn myself. I'd like to get my first ZL headlamp and am leaning towards a H600Fc or H600Fd but don't know which I'd prefer. My other ZLs are the standard neutral tint, which seems to be in between the c & d at 4500k.

Does anyone have general recommendations on the best application of each?

Why not get both? Then you have both your bases covered or you can always sell the one that you like least. I am pretty sure I am going to order the "c" now too because I like the "d" so much(but find it a bit cool for certain things) and need a backup anyway as I have decided to sell my old headlamp.

 

[MarkF786]

LOL. I've spent too much already on lights in the past couple months, but now that I found ZebraLight, I want to round out my collection with a headlamp. It seems like the "d" model is more popular, so maybe I should try that.

Why not get both? Then you have both your bases covered or you can always sell the one that you like least. I am pretty sure I am going to order the "c" now too because I like the "d" so much(but find it a bit cool for certain things) and need a backup anyway as I have decided to sell my old headlamp.

 

[Tachead]

LOL. I've spent too much already on lights in the past couple months, but now that I found ZebraLight, I want to round out my collection with a headlamp. It seems like the "d" model is more popular, so maybe I should try that.

Its a great headlamp. I dont think you could go wrong with either. I love my "d" so far.

 

[uofaengr]

Initial impressions of the H600Fd III. 1000x times better than the POS Fenix headband. Was surprised at how comfortable it is and much prefer the top strap going from front to back rather than side to side.

Tint is very nice. Near identical to my ~4700K SC62w, my $1 CCT measuring app shows 4750K on H1 and H2B and 4500K on M1 and M2A which pretty much lines up with what user maukka measured in his awesome review. (yay 1 dollar lol) Not too cool by any means, but wouldn't want to go cooler. Slightly cooler than all of my Nichia 219b lights, did not compare CRI but CRI does seem better compared with my SC62w.

Output...man, it's hard comparing a frosted lens side by side with a regular lens. I guess maybe since the frosted lens is more diffuse and lacks that hotspot, it's not going to look quite as bright, but I believe ZL specs. Very bright and just awesome though.

I never knew how useful a quality headlamp with a good beam could be until now. I wore it for awhile last night, and it just works so well and very comfortable too which I was surprised at. I've been holding lights in my mouth or halfway tail standing them and blinding myself for so long when working on something, this is literally a treat now. When Zebralight comes out with a 90+ CRI lamp with even better runtime and output, I'm in, no question, take my money now. The H600Fd III is a 5 star, home run.

 

[maukka]

Tint is very nice. Near identical to my ~4700K SC62w, my $1 CCT measuring app shows 4750K on H1 and H2B and 4500K on M1 and M2A which pretty much lines up with what user maukka measured in his awesome review. (yay 1 dollar lol)

Cool, it's an awesome light. What app did you use?

edit: Oh, I suppose this one http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?414221-Color-temperature-apps

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cassiopeia.camera&hl=fi

 

[uofaengr]

Cool, it's an awesome light. What app did you use?

edit: Oh, I suppose this one http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?414221-Color-temperature-apps

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cassiopeia.camera&hl=fi

You should do more reviews including lumen output if you have the capability. I appreciate your efforts!

Yes, that's the app. It seems to work fairly well for what it is. With flashlights, you have to keep the hotspot as centered as possible for accuracy. Has much more consistent readings with a diffuse light. There's worse things one could spend a buck on lol. I trust your methods much more though. [emoji106]

 

[BuildingSerenity]

Had a chance to play around with it.

Would be cool if there was a memory for last setting. Starts off in high. Not bad but not good.

Wondering if im going to regret no red light

 

[Tachead]

Had a chance to play around with it.

Would be cool if there was a memory for last setting. Starts off in high. Not bad but not good.

Wondering if im going to regret no red light

Read the instructions that came with it. You can start in low, med, or high from off. Press and hold for 0.6 seconds to start in low. Double click to start in med. Single click for high. Press and keep holding to scroll from low to med to high at anytime. Double click once on to go to sub mode of the current level and it will remember your choice. There is a lot more then that too. Trust me, read the advanced instructions.

 

[Tachead]

Had a chance to play around with it.

Would be cool if there was a memory for last setting. Starts off in high. Not bad but not good.

Wondering if im going to regret no red light

Let us know what you think of it(all aspects: construction, tint, beam profile, UI, exc.)once you learn all the advanced operation too:thumbsup:

 

[Tachead]

Had a chance to play around with it.

Would be cool if there was a memory for last setting. Starts off in high. Not bad but not good.

Wondering if im going to regret no red light

I doubt you will. Red light doesnt help preserve night vision much more then low white light and it as the expense of colour rendering and detail. Your new light has a low mode as well as three different levels of moonlight all the way down to 0.01 lumen. You can pick which of the three modes you like best and save it through the programming mode and then double click from low to get to it(double click to toggle between the 2). Also, if you double click when in low and go to your saved moonlight mode and then turn the light off, it will remember and turn back on to the moonlight when you next start the light in low(0.6 sec press and hold).

 

[eraursls1984]

There is a lot more then that too. Trust me, read the advanced instructions.

You had me thinking I've missed something. You covered everything but the programming, blinking modes, and battery indicator.

 

[Tachead]

You had me thinking I've missed something. You covered everything but the programming, blinking modes, and battery indicator.

Correct. I figured I would just go over the main stuff. I hope it was helpful.

 

[BuildingSerenity]

Read the instructions before posting, thanks

I'm not liking the UI. Should have a memory.

0.6 seconds is low. 0.7 is medium, 0.8 is high. Pretty precise requirements.

This isn't intuitive or convenient. I may return and get the new Fenix

 

[snowlover91]

Read the instructions before posting, thanks

I'm not liking the UI. Should have a memory.

0.6 seconds is low. 0.7 is medium, 0.8 is high. Pretty precise requirements.

This isn't intuitive or convenient. I may return and get the new Fenix

Not sure what you're talking about? You click once to go to high from off. If you want low you press and hold. If you want medium it's a double click from off. There's nothing precise about the high or medium modes you just click once or twice and for low you just press and hold.