New H53c AA Headlamp Neutral White High CRI!

[lampeDépêche]

To recap...if I'm not looking at H1 due to the curve, the h53c runtimes are very close to the h53Fw runtimes. Lumens, and thus, lumen hours, are lower on the h53c due to the higher CRI.

Yeah, that makes sense--it is very unlikely that ZL change the driver circuit when they move from one emitter to another. So the circuit is still feeding the same current to the emitter in both lights, and that's what controls run-time. The different emitters then convert the same amount of current into different amounts of lumens, because of their different temperature and CRI profiles, which is what controls output.

I am still unhappy that your numbers are coming in so much lower than ZL's posted specs. And the fact that you got consistent numbers with two different models makes it much less likely that either unit is bad.

I think ZL has some 'splaining to do....

 

[dmsoule]

One theory to only partially explain lumen measurement differences, at least on h1: ZL might use the ansi standard, which I think is the lumen measurement at 30 seconds or a minute.

Another: the ZL setup might be very warm, or downright hot, making the cells perform better.

Another: ZL cherry picks good new cells, and tops them off to the very high end of the spec.

The most obvious is that ZL has over inflated the specs on this light. It would be the most flagarent inflation of specs I've heard from ZL, so I'm definitely going to reserve judgement until some other samples are tested with other setups.

Thanks for all the work, gogdog!

Another possibility: perhaps the Eneloop Pro can produce higher output as well as greater runtime. It is designed for higher discharge rates, correct? This would not explain the M1 discrepancy, however...

 

[gogdog]

I'm not aware that the eneloop Pros are designed for higher discharge rates...I thought the only difference was capacity. But if I'm wrong, someone please chime in.

Here is something interesting though....I then started testing my Fenix 1600mAh 1.5V li-ion microusb rechargeable battery (arb-l14-1600u).

I did a test on H3...here is the runtime chart ->

Compared to the original Eneloop test (I actually retested it on a different eneloop and got the exact same results as before)

Technically the 1600mAh 1.5V battery should have just as much stored energy as the eneloop (2000mAh 1.2V).

The eneloop gave me 90 minutes before a slow dim "dying" light, which I'm not sure how long it would last for before eventually dying (I didn't test till it reached moonlight mode). The Fenix li-ion gave me 111minutes, before shutting off (probably due to the overdischarge circuit on the battery). Same lumen values between the tests. Manufacturer claimed runtime is 1hr48min (108min) with a standard eneloop, so 111 minutes is actually slightly over spec at 3% overspec. Of course, there is an abrupt cutoff though.

I am pretty impressed by the Fenix battery....its lighter than an eneloop and..looks like gives me good performance. I will note that you can not run H1 on the Fenix but the other modes seem to work fine.

 

[Tachead]

Thanks for all of your work on this.

An eneloop that only contains 1800mah might explain lower run-times, but it cannot explain low lumen outputs.

No offence intended to gogdog and I too thank him for his work on this but...

He is using a cardboard box with a cell phone stuck in it. I would take his lumen measurements with a grain of salt.

As for the runtimes, he is using a different cell(who knows how old it is)and doing a calculation to account for the capacity difference. This is not a very accurate method. One needs to use brand new Eneloop Pro's to do accurate comparative testing.

It should also be noted that all samples will likely be slightly different due to small variations in particular electronic components and emitters. Eneloops will also vary both in capacity and resistance.

 

[gogdog]

He is using a cardboard box with a cell phone stuck in it. I would take his lumen measurements with a grain of salt.

You and me both! I mean...I've admitted several times that my lightbox is crappy, and I can't explain the lower lumens. I normalized it based off of the lumintop hl aaa's review...which...who knows how he came up with his lumens either. I can say though, that at a particular light level (lumintop HI 120Lm spec vs h53F2 H4 119Lm spec), the lumintop appears brighter to my eye, which would support the lightbox values. The tints are different though, so one might "appear" brighter (the cool white of the lumintop). I don't know.

I would LOVE if someone could confirm lumen values...ideally if they had the lumintop hl aaa too.

As for the runtimes, he is using a different cell(who knows how old it is)and doing a calculation to account for the capacity difference. This is not a very accurate method. One needs to use brand new Eneloop Pro's to do accurate comparative testing.

You know...thats not a bad idea. I don't have any eneloop Pros....I think I'll just have to order some. I confirmed capacity via my la crosse charger, but.....not resistance. I didn't think of the older battery having higher resistance, which could certainly be throwing stuff off.

But 30% off runtime on M1? I don't think resistance is going to cut it.

 

[likethevegetable]

If you look at the H52w vs. the H53w:

H52w @ 25lm for 12hrs*(2.55/2) =15.3hrs [corrected for using an Eneloop pro)
H53w @ 30lm for 21 hrs

I think the specs are overestimated, it's just something we have to accept. I posted a thread about this on here a few months ago, and with the help of some other members, we all found the same thing with our lights.

Who cares if they're overstated? They still come out more efficient than other lights when tested.

 

[likethevegetable]

If you look at the H52w vs. the H53w:

H52w @ 25lm for 12hrs*(2.55/2) =15.3hrs [corrected for using an Eneloop pro)
H53w @ 30lm for 21 hrs

I think the specs are overestimated, it's just something we have to accept. I posted a thread about this on here a few months ago, and with the help of some other members, we all found the same thing with our lights.

Who cares if they're overstated? They still come out more efficient than other lights when tested.

Here is the other thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...t-H53c-Runtimes-Less-than-Specified&highlight

There is a table with 5 tested runtimes, and a link to another thread on Taschenlampenforum (I believe our friends in Germany)

 

[gogdog]

Well dang it.....I wish I saw that thread earlier....now I realize that I just duplicated a bunch of work that was already corroborated in that other thread. Its too late to cancel my amazon order for the eneloop Pros..though..I did buy amazonbasics high capacity batteries which I hope are truly rebranded ones, that are at least half the price.

 

[gogdog]

OK, just for finalization. My new amazonbasics high capacity batteries came in (eneloop pros), and I decided to test them. First, I cycled all 4 several times, and then picked the two highest.

I then tested both H2 and H4. The results are just about the same as with my standard eneloops. They have 25% more energy, so 25% more runtime. Still about 20% under ZL specs, though I don't really care anymore. Nice to know that my older eneloops don't appear to have any resistance based issues since they are performing on par with new eneloops.

 

[Burgess]

Thank you so much
for all your time and effort here !


:thumbsup:
_

 

[Burgess]

BTW --

If you happen to get bored one day,
it would be nice to see how Energizer L91 Lithiums perform !



_

 

[Andrew479]

Hi,
just a quick question - has anyone tried to measure CRI/RA for multiple lumen outputs?
SC64c even though advertised with the same XP-L2 came out as 88-91 CRI, and not 93-95 - link

 

[pdirt]

Been reading CPF for a while now, FTP. Such a rich community in the search for the perfect lamps!

After purchasing the Thrunite TH20 and loving it, I got the "bug" and now want a Zebralight. My main reasons are: the ZL is much lighter and it's far more efficient. Apparently the TH20 is only efficient in moonlight, infinity low/high and turbo...anywhere in the ramping aka infinity modes is not very efficient. I've decided it is down to the H53c and H53Fc. I love me a warm light and now having a couple Nichia 219c/b lights, I see the punny light of what high CRI is all about. So glad LED's have come so far from that awful icy blue of the early 2000's.

Anyways, I have not seen really thorough comparison's between the H53c and H53Fc. I've seen a few beam shots and lots of text descriptions. I think I will only be satisfied as to which model I would prefer for hiking/backpacking by purchasing both and returning the one I don't want to keep. I appreciate that ZL has such a generous return policy.

So I will write a mini review (as a new post) titled something like, "Comparison of beams between Zebralight H53c (with and without DC-Fix) and H53Fc". I'm half-tempted to also order the H53w and H53Fw, but I am not a high-lumen user and not sure the extra 16% of lumens between the "c" and "w" variants will be noticeable and I'm pretty sure I would prefer the slightly warmer tint of the "c" over the "w". I have most certainly been able to see the tint differences between the two in photos I've seen online.

 

[likethevegetable]

pdirt, comparisons like that are always helpful, looking forward to it.

I myself have an H53c + DC-fix and an H600Fc IV. For most users, I believe the frosted lens is the most versatile (wish I got the H53Fc, but I'm in Canada and returning it doesn't make sense, and the DC-fix helps). For similar outputs between the H53c and H600Fc I noticed only a small compromise in throw, maybe 2/3 to 3/4, but a much larger field of view... But since my observations used different LEDs and maybe reflectors, it's obviously a flawed test. I'm interested in seeing an accurate comparison!

 

[woodentsick]

Just received an H53c. Not super happy with the tint, looks like I lost the lottery this time round...Some iPhone beamshots:

H53c


Just look at that sickly green/yellow spill :green:

SC51w


I've had this light for many years now, and still love it.

Folomov EDC C1


Ah, my first Nichia E21A. What a beautiful tint.

 

[likethevegetable]

That's too bad. Maybe try some DC-Fix?

My H53c looks very nice to me. My H53Fc on the other hand does look slightly yellow and green, BUT if the light is used on its own, it's fine.

 

[radellaf]

Well. I found another bug in the new firmware that effectively ruins it for me.
This affects both the sc5c II and the h53c. ...mapped the levels so that L1, L2 (long press) are high and H1, H2 (quick press) are low. I kept medium the same.
This, in theory, should allow me to do a quick press to get low levels (and not kill my night vision) and do a long press for high.
...
Two quick presses should allow me to get to medium with no preflash. Well. It doesn't. When I do two quick presses, I get low, a brief preflash to high, before settling in to medium. So in theory I could have 0.08 lumens, a brief 475 lumen flash before settling into 7 lumens.

This is garbage.

Just got a H53Fc, about two years after this quote, and the bug seems to be gone.

What's bothering me, is: what's the deal with the clip?

Are you supposed to be able to put the clip on and still use it with the headband?

And, why does the clip go on the "wrong" end of the light? I don't get how a head-down clip is useful for a right angle light, and it kind of blocks the tailcap. Confused.

OTOH, the floody beam is _perfect_ for tint, and no Cree rainbow, compared to the SC53c.

 

[radellaf]

Official ZL answer is that no, you can't use the headband and the clip. So, if you want to switch between them, you'll probably end up with a scratched light.

They also say that blocking the tailcap happens with "all deep carry" clips. I'd say that makes the light incompatible with deep clips, personally. And really tight metal clips in general.

Which makes me wonder what this group of "upside-down deep-carry" people are doing with their lights that make those two attributes important vs the not-deep head-up positioning that seems the intuitive way to do it. But, it was sold as a head light, not a clipped light, so I'll just ignore the clip. I ignore it on the SC600/700, so nothing new. I like solid screwed on clips, not a clipped clip, though I can see with a right angle there's a reason to let the clip be able to rotate around the light. Still, rather it just had a SC53 style screwed on clip 180 from the lens.

 

[LightObsession]

Official ZL answer is that no, you can't use the headband and the clip. So, if you want to switch between them, you'll probably end up with a scratched light.

They also say that blocking the tailcap happens with "all deep carry" clips. I'd say that makes the light incompatible with deep clips, personally. And really tight metal clips in general.

Which makes me wonder what this group of "upside-down deep-carry" people are doing with their lights that make those two attributes important vs the not-deep head-up positioning that seems the intuitive way to do it. But, it was sold as a head light, not a clipped light, so I'll just ignore the clip. I ignore it on the SC600/700, so nothing new. I like solid screwed on clips, not a clipped clip, though I can see with a right angle there's a reason to let the clip be able to rotate around the light. Still, rather it just had a SC53 style screwed on clip 180 from the lens.

I prefer clips that rotate around the body on right angle lights, because that allows me to adjust the angle of the light when I have it clipped to something. A fixed position clip doesn't work for me on a right angle light.

 

[eh4]

I prefer clips that rotate around the body on right angle lights, because that allows me to adjust the angle of the light when I have it clipped to something. A fixed position clip doesn't work for me on a right angle light.

Yep, it's the best for me as well.
I use the zebralight clip on both of my H600 and made them permanent with a carefully trimmed strip of gorilla tape, doubled adhesive side to adhesive side to allow rotation, sticky side on the clip to prevent shifting.
Originally I used heat shrink tube, but that would wear out in a season or two, the gorilla tape seems like it's going to last as long as the light.
Light lives in pocket 365/24/7.