Recent content by geisto

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    Expensive Batteries.

    Surefire sells a box of 12 CR123s for $24.95. I bought them on ebay.... those 72cell bulk box deals...it came to like $1.50 a cell. Still not cheap and I burned through them like candy in my M3T/125lumen bulb. Gamechanger when LED drop-ins came in and it basically doubled the output and runtime...
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    I ran that light on high and for long durations...maybe all that heat eventually caused a short in the LED. I forgot the exact max amp rating on the 4000mAh 26650 that Fraz used on the Qzark. Certain that it was less than 10A. I got about an hour of runtime on high before the light started to dim.
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    Depends on how pancaked the QTC is. If the whole QTC is as flat as a sheet of paper then a slight twist will basically send it right to high mode. I haven't gotten it to that point yet on mine, LoL. A high amp capable battery isn't necessary for these lights. Something like a Panasonic...
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    I wasn't taking chances back then. Spare QTCs were a must, then o-rings and optics. Never had to change the o-rings. Thing about plastic, it doesn't react to well to some solvents...and I managed to get some on the optic and basically turned it into a frosted lens...spare optic for the win, lol.
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    These newer lights? QTC should last a year. On the old lights, there's a tendency to overtighten the bezel in an attempt to "twist" out more lumens...too much of it will cause the QTC to flatten out faster. Once you have a pancake QTC, the light will no longer be able to maintain the low-mid...
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    Yep, and draw more current also because of voltage drop. My 3.6-3.7A # was at 30seconds. The QT-SS on direct drive gets uncomfortably hot at 15mins. Fraz doesnt use the "real" QTC material since he cannot source them anymore. I haven't really tested the new material for longevity. That said...
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    NCR18650PF max discharge is 10A.
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    I checked the current draw on direct drive on my QT-SS 18650. Using an old Panasonic NCR18650PF, my meter showed 3.6-3.7A. This is not factoring resistance from the tailspring since I needed to take the bezel off the body. I didn't take the engine off the bezel yet but by the ho-hum green tint...
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    This light uses QTC and a twisty interface for current control so there's no "fixed" mode. Just twist the bezel until the light is at the brightness level that you want.
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    Sky Lumen XXI Beam Shots

    Kerneldrop's pic is right as far as heat transfer. Running a Samsung 40T in mine, with room temp at 65degrees, the head will hit 170degrees at about 45seconds in turbo, the body will be around 103-111 degrees.
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    All you need a 3V LED mounted on a 16mm MCPCB...thats it.
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    This new design looks like it will provide good grip for one-hand use. The old lights had checkering which provided a good grip but chews up pockets.
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    Sold/Expired WTS Foursevens Collection, Prometheus Betas, Zebralight SC62w

    I'll take the betas per PM. :paypal: *Lights received. Thanks!*
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    The Lumenite should be able to handle the heat from a couple more amps of current...very interesting. :popcorn:
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    Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

    I wouldn't worry about it. Since the sides of the piston rests within a plastic "housing", there won't be any electro-fusing of two dissimilar metals. The major friction point is the piston against the lip of the body. Lubing the lip of the body and threads is sufficient. You can clean the lip...
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