Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

[geisto]

I'd be curious what the amperage is after 30 mins or so of continuous use. The amperage will increase as the LED and battery gets hotter.

If that QTC material doesn't last a year then they need to look at what is tearing it up and make some changes.

Yep, and draw more current also because of voltage drop. My 3.6-3.7A # was at 30seconds. The QT-SS on direct drive gets uncomfortably hot at 15mins.

Fraz doesnt use the "real" QTC material since he cannot source them anymore. I haven't really tested the new material for longevity. That said, the new lights are more gentle so changing out the QTC every few months is a thing of the past.

 

[kerneldrop]

Yea the old QTC material that doesn't flicker was made in London and is no longer available.

 

[thermal guy]

London? Really. Didn't know that. I did learn that it was first used in the gloves of astronaut

 

[geisto]

thanks for the details..
at what use frequency...about 3 times a day or what ballpark?

does the material get compressed and loses low modes and just wants to produce high modes?

is replacement QTC readily available?

These newer lights? QTC should last a year. On the old lights, there's a tendency to overtighten the bezel in an attempt to "twist" out more lumens...too much of it will cause the QTC to flatten out faster. Once you have a pancake QTC, the light will no longer be able to maintain the low-mid brightness consistently. To avoid overtightening, take the QTC out of the piston, put piston back in and turn on the light...that's as bright as the light is going to get. Now you'll know when reached that brightness, don't tighten the bezel anymore.

Fraz has spares available. The thing is, even with no QTC, the light will still work on direct drive mode. A spare optic would be good to have for the long haul.

 

[thermal guy]

"A spare optic would be good to have for the long haul."

a really really long haul lol. Not sure you can damage that thing if you tried and scratches would do very little to harm the output.

 

[geisto]

"A spare optic would be good to have for the long haul."

a really really long haul lol. Not sure you can damage that thing if you tried and scratches would do very little to harm the output.

I wasn't taking chances back then. Spare QTCs were a must, then o-rings and optics. Never had to change the o-rings. Thing about plastic, it doesn't react to well to some solvents...and I managed to get some on the optic and basically turned it into a frosted lens...spare optic for the win, lol.

 

[jon_slider]

even with no QTC, the light will still work on direct drive mode

yes, but, no low modes
and
there is some concern that 18650 batteries have higher Amperage than the LED can handle on direct drive.. I have no personal experience to be able to say for sure

 

[ecmp]

Thank you for the inputs everyone! Much appreciated! Opted Fraz for having the widest range of options available.

if you put a 15A 18650 in a Fraz w a 3A LED such as LH351D, you should be able to fry the LED on direct drive..

There is an internal resistance that allows a higher voltage and amperage rated battery to run a LED with lower forward voltage and amperage on direct drive.

Personal objective in searching for these specifications is twofold. First, in the unlikely event that the QTC fails, it would be valuable to know beforehand which LEDs can handle direct drive and which cannot. Second would be to determine which battery amperage rating would best fit a given LED.

I've used and abused the old Qzark QTC light for 8yrs...thousands of hours of total runtime till the XM-L insta-poofed on me.

Thought LED would gradually lose its efficiency over time. Insta poof more likely related to maybe a short?

Yep, and draw more current also because of voltage drop. My 3.6-3.7A # was at 30seconds. The QT-SS on direct drive gets uncomfortably hot at 15mins.

Thank you for the input!

To avoid overtightening, take the QTC out of the piston, put piston back in and turn on the light...that's as bright as the light is going to get. Now you'll know when reached that brightness, don't tighten the bezel anymore.

Would this damage a LED with lower amperage ratings? Maybe there is another way?

Fraz has spares available. The thing is, even with no QTC, the light will still work on direct drive mode.

I wasn't taking chances back then. Spare QTCs were a must, then o-rings and optics. Never had to change the o-rings. Thing about plastic, it doesn't react to well to some solvents...and I managed to get some on the optic and basically turned it into a frosted lens...spare optic for the win, lol.

Not taking chances on QTC pills until these are more widely available.

 

[geisto]

yes, but, no low modes
and
there is some concern that 18650 batteries have higher Amperage than the LED can handle on direct drive.. I have no personal experience to be able to say for sure

Depends on how pancaked the QTC is. If the whole QTC is as flat as a sheet of paper then a slight twist will basically send it right to high mode. I haven't gotten it to that point yet on mine, LoL.

A high amp capable battery isn't necessary for these lights. Something like a Panasonic NCR18650GA or Molicel M35A that has a high capacity will give you longer runtime and you won't have to worry about a meltdown. Driving most flashlight LEDs past the manufacturer's spec sheets is gonna shorten the LED's overall life for sure, it's just a matter of how you use your light. It is easy to swap LEDs on the new lights...no soldering...just buy LEDs on whatever size MCPCB the Frazlight uses (I think 20mm on the QT model), loosen the two head bolts on the light engine and swap it out.

 

[geisto]

Thought LED would gradually lose its efficiency over time. Insta poof more likely related to maybe a short?

I ran that light on high and for long durations...maybe all that heat eventually caused a short in the LED. I forgot the exact max amp rating on the 4000mAh 26650 that Fraz used on the Qzark. Certain that it was less than 10A. I got about an hour of runtime on high before the light started to dim.

 

[ecmp]

I got my light yesterday. This is my first Fraz light, and it is certainly an interesting flashlight. I don't know if I am happy with the optic as it produces an artifact in the center. I appreciate the craftsmanship and thought put into the light. I like the way it feels from a tactile perspective.

View attachment 51145View attachment 51146

Got mine! Love the simplicity of operation, heft, and build quality!

Have that artifact as well at certain lower brightness levels and about 1-1/2 inches away from the object. Disappears at longer distances or higher brightness settings.

Intentionally looked for it to compare to yours. Would not have noticed otherwise.

 

[ecmp]

I ran that light on high and for long durations...maybe all that heat eventually caused a short in the LED. I forgot the exact max amp rating on the 4000mAh 26650 that Fraz used on the Qzark. Certain that it was less than 10A. I got about an hour of runtime on high before the light started to dim.

Amazing runtime!

Keeppower has 6000 mAh 10A protected cells…

 

[TimeOnTarget]

Got mine! Love the simplicity of operation, heft, and build quality!

Have that artifact as well at certain lower brightness levels and about 1-1/2 inches away from the object. Disappears at longer distances or higher brightness settings.

Intentionally looked for it to compare to yours. Would not have noticed otherwise.

Just to be clear, I think it is an interesting light, and a must have for aficionados, but I did not expect the optic to be like that.

 

[kerneldrop]

It's just the nature of a TIR optic with some throw. You can change the optic to more of a flood and the artifacts should go away.

Artifacts are generally from the led being too low or too high. Custom modders spend a great time sanding to find that perfect spot.

I just go with it and use it like an extreme user. A TIR optic will never look as good as a reflector.

 

[jon_slider]

You can change the optic to more of a flood and the artifacts should go away.

Artifacts are generally from the led being too low or too high. Custom modders spend a great time sanding to find that perfect spot.

I tried to find a link to a a pebbled or floody Tir, with no luck, but I agree that would get rid of the cross shadow at close range..

I think lifting the mcpcb in the Fraz would eliminate the shadow. I would want to lift the mcpcb 0.5mm closer to the optic. I think some thin copper sheet under the mcpcb might work well. Or maybe 5 layers of Aluminium foil.. ;-)

 

[ecmp]

Artifacts are generally from the led being too low or too high. Custom modders spend a great time sanding to find that perfect spot.

I think lifting the mcpcb in the Fraz would eliminate the shadow. I would want to lift the mcpcb 0.5mm closer to the optic. I think some thin copper sheet under the mcpcb might work well. Or maybe 5 layers of Aluminium foil.. ;-)

Interesting to know, thank you! Could be perfect for dialing in domed / de-domed LEDS!

 

[vand3537]

any news on that drop that was going to happen early October?
did I miss it? I'm signed up for "In stock" alerts and never got any.

 

[ecmp]

Hi @vand3537, October drop likely got delayed. "New drop coming soon!" posted on Fraz' IG around Nov 1. Good luck!

 

[speckacuda]

Holy COW, y'all have been busy! I'll be back to answer things in a bit, but we have lights in stock on the site!! Sorry for the delay, that last drop was quite the growing pain, and I learned that technology is only amazing when it all plays well with each other. So, I think we have all that hemmed out now (fingers crossed), I love all of y'all for the patience, kindness, loyalty, time and attention to responding to a thread about this particular flashlight, and most of all, your support (as well as the knowledge).

Also, the stainless looks way better in the Halloween photos than the aluminum of old... Why did y'all not tell us to go SS before now?!?! 🤣

 

[thermal guy]

i missed the first batch of SS but got one in this run!