MillerMods wrote:
"The retaining screw in the head of the AdvancedMart 1AA gets loose and causes problems with the ground. The design isn't the best because of the mechanical conection for the only ground source the circuit has. Try cleaning the surfaces of both the circuit's ground and the retaining screw. The problem will be solved. The circuit itself is a perfectly reliable design, be rest assured that the mechanical connection is the fault."
This is one of the possibilities for the reports of QC problems I've read.
If one backs off the retaining aluminum screw ring in the head, or remove it completely - the light will not work - so it is one of the vital electrical connections for the light.
However when I reported my problems to John at AdvancedMart - he very kindly said I could take the light apart to see what was wrong - in fact he actually encouraged me - when I said I was reluctant since I may not be able to put the light back together again. He even showed me a photo of the CR123 version to help illustrate disassembly (note this board is different to the one in the AM LED-005S) -
http://advancedmart.com/halwattinside.jpg
So here are some of my findings -
Anodized threads - this has been pointed out by others as a potential problem - the threads are anodized (no electrical conductivity) but they have been scraped to bare parts - but not the recessed parts (see my photo above of the tailcap). I can confirm this - just trying to take current draw readings will show that it is hard to make good contact with the threads.
Further evidence - the switch is dependent on making contact with the tailcap threads - but the inner threads of the tailcap are also anodized. I found by tightening the similar retaining aluminum screw ring in the tailcap one can cause the light not to work. I also found the switch was also rotational/position sensitive - so the tightening or loosening of the retaining screw which can rotate the switch can cause the light not to work - or be intermittent or even flicker.
(Important note: my switch was not at fault - I was able to confirm connection between the central spring and the bare alumium retaining screw ring - yet there were times when the tailcap threads showed NO connection and the flashlight did NOT work)
Now the threads - as far as I could see - inside the tube at the head are also anodized and I could not see any bare metal (remember I had a black one so it was easier to see) so I can't figure how that retaining screw ring was even making any contact with the body tube at all - but it obviously was, since I could make the light work by making sure that ring was screwed down properly.
When I relayed this information to John at AdvancedMart he said he didn't think this was the problem - it was possibly a loose wire on the induction coil on the board that was the cause.....
Another point the +ve contact is actually a simple solder blob. Although it is probably mostly OK - there is the potential of the blob wearing down so that good contact with the +ve button on an AA battery becomes unreliable
Therefore I don't think I could pick just one and say it was the cause of the problems reported.
Since I think there are at least three or four potential problems - any one, or a combination, or all of them, could cause problems.
The loose head screw ring is simple enough to correct by just tightening - one does not even need long thin needle nosed pliers - a long thin screwdriver or punch that fits one of the holes will do fine.
Anodized threads - this I think is not only a potential area - but an inherent problem - since all the vital electrical connections are done via the threads. It would be much better if the threads were bare metal aluminum.
Other flashlight manufacturers have managed this with lights that are anodized both inside and out (eg: MiniMag) - I think they anodize the machined parts - then cut in the threds AFTERwards........
If there is a loose wire on the inductor coil on the board - this will require removal of the board - which I was reluctant to do - even with John's permission/encouragement - as I could not figure out how to get the board out since there were no holes or cut-outs on this board to gain purchase - there were two small holes, but they had what looked like locator lugs in them - which would probably mean I'd break them retrieving the board - this would defeat the whole point of disassembly to inspect the board as I probably would not be able to put everything back correctly for the light to work properly.......
Solder blob contact - watch for wear and clean occassionally to avoid problems.
Anyway those are my thoughts/speculation -
feel free to add other possibilities.
In the end I really like the size and form factor of this light - and hope the QC and reliability will improve -
for all of us.