100mW 532nm DPSS module arrived!!!

[allthatwhichis]

i was referring to the prism, etc.

 

[jtice]

My GBS-100 TEC arrived today !!!!!

This thing is ludicrous bright !!!

I will make my own post later, figure thats better than cluttering up your thread.

~John

 

[allthatwhichis]

:rock: :twothumbs

Looking forward to your thread... Where'd you get those smilies from?

 

[allthatwhichis]

also, we'd like to see a spot size mesaurement at 20+ feet some time!

This perspective is alittle weird. It's down part of a hall, into my computer room. The closest door handle is about 5 feet from where the beam hits the wall. I also measured 20 ft from that wall for ya...

It's also daylight. Look at those pimp floors...

There is no smoke or fog, but I do live in Florida, the humidity is probably 70+%.

 

[jtice]

At 20 to 30 feet, how large is your dot?

Mine at that distance, is TWO dots,
making about a 1.25" patch.

Do you know it that front part is just a retainer ring, or is it a focus adjustment?

~John

 

[allthatwhichis]

At 20 to 30 feet, how large is your dot?

Mine at that distance, is TWO dots,
making about a 1.25" patch.

Do you know it that front part is just a retainer ring, or is it a focus adjustment?

~John

I couldn't get close to the dot to measure it. I think it had to be .75 to 1 inch, maybe a bit larger. I am about to run to the PO to see if my goggles came in. That picture was at 20 feet.

front piece? Did your's come with an extra "cord" that connects to nothing coming from the pwr supply?

 

[jtice]

Front piece= that ring right on the front, that has the hole in it, that the laser emits from
Not sure if thats just a retainer ring, or will adjust focus.

Yes, mine has a small set of wires (red and black) comming out of the PS thats connected to nothing,
is that the blanking/modulation connection?

~John

 

[allthatwhichis]

On mine the "ring" seems to be an indention into the heatsink, but not very deep. Nothing that would turn. And I can exagerate and say I vaugly know what blanking and modulation mean... :huh2:

And... no goggles, just a student loan bill. :thumbsdow On that note I'm going to bed, I've been up too long as it is... I feel like the horse.

 

[jtice]

blanking . or modulation
is making the laser turn on and off by an outside signal.

 

[dr_lava]

All, the point of the 20 ft.+ picture is to get a closeup of the dot shape and size. put your camera into macro mode, walk right up to the dot, and take a picture, with a ruler in view for size comparison. See some of the pics here
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/123419
although he should have used a ruler.

 

[jkaiser3000]

If these things are built much like my GBS-80, the front ring is more like a retaining ring, not for focus adjustment.

As for the wires, they are indeed for modulation. I'm not sure if it's analog modulation or TTL blanking for you, but for me it's TTL. In either case, what that means is that you can apply a signal to those wires to turn your lasers on/off (TTL), or vary the intensity (analog).

In the TTL case, you apply 5 volts to the red wire (+ side) and your lasers turn off. Black wire is negative/ground. If you apply no voltage, well, you guessed it, your lasers work normally (turned on)

In analog, you apply a voltage anywhere between 0 and 5 volts to the red wire, and the intensity varies accordingly (again, black is ground/negative). The higher the voltage, the lower the intensity. This method is the reccomended one for multicolor grphics projectors, because you can have potentially millions of colors. With TTL you only get 7 colors (on an RGB setup).

 

[jtice]

Thanks alot for the info !!!!!!!!!

i know that it will do TTL, but I wonder if any can do BOTH?

I would REALLY !!! like a way to vary the power output on this thing.

Have you ever tried it on yours?

I have a variable PS, I guess I could test that tonight.

~John

 

[allthatwhichis]

All, the point of the 20 ft.+ picture is to get a closeup of the dot shape and size. put your camera into macro mode, walk right up to the dot, and take a picture, with a ruler in view for size comparison. See some of the pics here
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/123419
although he should have used a ruler.

I got around to this this morning after work. I couldn't get a good enough picture to post, the measuring tape is very blurred. I measured the dot at 20 ft to be about 1/2 inch, give or take a 16th...

On a side not, my 10+mW blue argon hasn't arrived yet.

The seller emailed me last Thursday and said the cooling fan was not working and he would have to order a new one. Should be to him today or tomorrow, and be in the mail to me shortly after.

I picked up another 488nm head Friday of last week. It is 25mW instead of 10+.

and should work with the psu I get from the 10mW... I will probably post the other 10mW head in the "for sale" forum if anyone is interested.

I need to find a decent 632nm module now. I was thinking 35 to 50mW. I may even have to downgrade from this green unit. 100mW is just too bright for the 10 sq ft I am currently using it in. It may also overpower the blue and "hopeful" red. I think a 15 to 20mW would be best to compliment the others.

 

[jtice]

I took some pics at over 100 feet last night, will try to post tomorrow.

I hope to get around to making a PWM control for the GBS-100,
With freq, and duty cycle adjustments, dimming the laser should be possible.

~John

 

[allthatwhichis]

Definatly post soem pics of that. Dimming would be REAL nice.

 

[jtice]

Will be a while

I dont even have the schematic or parts worked out yet.

 

[dr_lava]

JT, Here's a simple PWM solution for you:

Just adjust the pot to change laser brightness with full 10-bit 20kHz PWM goodness.
the PIC can be programmed easily with the 'no parts programmer' in low-voltage mode. The PWM can only source/sink up to 25mA without damage. You will probably want to put a resistor of about 1K in series with the PWM_OUT pin.

The hex file is what you program into the PIC.
Here are the files.

PIC parts can be sampled free for people with EDU or business email addresses.

 

[allthatwhichis]

:huh2:

Look Greek... :candle:

 

[jtice]

Looks pretty Greek to me also,
I am new to this sorta thing, and have never used a PIC.

But I iwll look into that, and see if I can pull that off

~John

 

[dr_lava]

PICs are great tools for any home experimenter that deals with electronics. They are very cheap, versatile, and easy to use. There are only 35 instructions to learn, but many are opposites or rarely used, so it feels like 15. I included the source code for you to look at, but all you really need to do is get a 16F872, program it with the hex file I attached using any PIC programmer out there (they come prebuilt as cheap as $16), and pop it into that simple circuit.