1200 Lumen 2D Maglite Mod

[Klem]

Looks like metal bases with black material on top. Looking even more closely I can see a tiny gap between one of the XML's and the metal base. That white epoxy is on one side of the XML only. Must have been 'beer-O-Clock' in the factory when this one was put together.

I couldn't prise out the driver so it got the hacksaw treatment. Does anyone recognise it?

 

[lautmaschine]

I have had a look at the 3*XML drop-in and I find it woefully underpowered.
Three settings; High, Low, and Strobe.
High, 7.8 Watts
Low, 0.7 Watts
Strobe 3 Watts.

Compared against the 5*XR-E drop-in the 5*XRE wins hands down. Not only is it brighter, but more focussed. The 5*XR-E draws between 12-15Watts by comparison. I agree with 'Laut', the XRE factory driver is only delivering about 0.7A which means the claim to 1200 lumens is exaggerated. However compared to the 3*XML; each one capable of running at 3A delivering 1,000lumens... it's like driving a Ferrari in second gear.

To be fair to the manufacturer the 30Watt maximum potential of the 3*XM-L drop-in can never be achieved without the risk of overheating in a standard above-water torch. The volume of metal for heat dissipation and tenuous thermal path inthose 'W' series torches is simply asking for a flood or warranty claims and returns.

Not to say the $33 3*XML drop-in is a complete write-off, but you would need to replace the driver and add heat sink to the base. Then house it in a Maglite designed for diving with plenty of thermal path to the outside...then you can put your foot on the accelerator! :devil:

I don't recognize the driver from your picture, but the interesting part would likely be the part I can't see. There's probably a sense resistor, perhaps near the ground wire that will determine your forward current. If you were able to find the resistor (it would also likely be larger than most of the other resistors), measure it and post your forward voltage, you could do some experiment increasing the current. It's a bit of a shot in the dark without having a schematic and knowing the specs on the components (so yes you could blow your board.)

 

[DIWdiver]

Looks like metal bases with black material on top.

Well that's good at least.

Must have been 'beer-O-Clock' in the factory when this one was put together.

That's why the production floor at my company shuts down at quarter-to-beer. That way we only get mistakes made by those thinking about getting wasted. Some of the office staff (including me) has been known to stay until Mike's-Hard-Lemonade-thirty, but we never do anything important after beer-O-clock.

Seriously though, at 2.6 watts each, the LEDs don't need really careful heatsinking, and if you don't 'enhance' your drop-in, it will probably last a while. The words 'probably' and 'a while' may not satisfy those with more discriminating taste, but what are you going to do, buy a Shurefire, or a Malkoff? They chose to save a cent or two on thermal (?) epoxy, by trading off some trivial things like lifetime and reliability. It would be nice if they would put that in the sales literature, but that's written by the office staff after production shuts down, and obviously isn't considered important.

Thanks, Klem, for showing us exactly what is inside these things.

 

[350xfire]

That sucks... Guess I'll have to install a Taskled on it

 

[Klem]

Yes, my thoughts exactly...which is why I've hacksawed the thing off in disgust.

 

[Racket]

how did you remove the reflector? I looks like you just need to pry, but I don't want to break it.

 

[Klem]

how did you remove the reflector? I looks like you just need to pry, but I don't want to break it.

On the 3*XM-L there is a single screw in the centre.
One the 5*XR-E there are two screws either side of centre.

You need to remove the driver to access the screws.

Once unscrewed the reflector and base comes apart, no glue.

 

[beekeeper5]

Hello. I finally had time to work on this after several months of waiting for the driver replacement and finding time to work on this. Everything tested ok and it was nice and bright. However, as soon as I soldered the driver wires to the 5*XR-E dropin wires together, it lit up for a second then after that, it won't light up again. I measured the driver wires going to the 5*XR-E dropin and they're at 17V which is ok. I'm using two 32650 batteries. If I switch the mode, it went down to 9V and variable voltage reading depending if it is on strobe or SOS mode. However, the dropin still won't light up for some reason. Any ideas?

 

[Codiak]

I'd suggest you check each LED seperately with a direct drive from a single cell.

 

[beekeeper5]

I replaced the driver and that was the cultprit. No idea why but I think it's ok now. I've just JB weld the barrel to the head so we'll see if the leak test works.

 

[SmokedCPU]

the driver shown before look identical to the one used in their single X-ML module.
I took it aside as i dont like to have many modes while diving, I'll take a look at it someday.

Smoked

 

[TERRY76]

Building the "toggle switch" to use a piezo switch is not something I'm comfortable taking on. Does anyone know of a source to get them already made?

 

[Klem]

Building the "toggle switch" to use a piezo switch is not something I'm comfortable taking on. Does anyone know of a source to get them already made?

If you want to modify a Maglite to take the 1200lumen DX drop-in while using a replacement Taskled driver (which operates on short 'clicks' and longer 'presses') then you are almost mandated to use a prolonged piezo switch. Unless it is a momentary toggle switch and you have a deft touch and can play the piano underwater then a toggle with a Taskled driver won't work. The prolonged piezo's work a treat with this system however.

If you don't want to swap out the driver for more functionality, efficiency and lumens and are happy going with the driver that comes with it then a simple on/off toggle switch will work. You won't be able to use a piezo in this instance without including a toggle circuit with it.

If you want a simple system with the Maglite, toggle and DX drop-in then I'm thinking theres a couple of ways you can do this. Put the toggle where the existing Maglite switch hole is, or coming into the back section of the head. The toggle in the switch hole to my mind is the easiest and for the sake of a few extra centimeters in length is the way to go.

 

[TERRY76]

The wiring with the drop in and a toggle switch i can do without an issue. I want to use the drop in and it's driver with a piezo switch. I'm building a canister light and the can will be mounted to my tank so I want the switch on the head. I'm needing assistance with the electronic toggle switch shown in the first post of this thread.

 

[350xfire]

If you want to do the easiest and cheapest use Taskled Hall Effect switch with a ring mounted magnet. This way, you don;t have to worry about changing the driver or using electronics

 

[Klem]

The wiring with the drop in and a toggle switch i can do without an issue. I want to use the drop in and it's driver with a piezo switch. I'm building a canister light and the can will be mounted to my tank so I want the switch on the head. I'm needing assistance with the electronic toggle switch shown in the first post of this thread.

If you want to use the DX drop-in, plus you want to use a piezo as the switch then you need to translate the momentary bridge a piezo gives you into a latching system. A standard piezo will only give you a bridge of continuity for a split second. You need that momentary bridge to latch 'On' until you press it again for 'Off'.

The Hall switch that 350' is referring to has the advantage of being a latching circuit. Otherwise you will need to make your own.

 

[TERRY76]

If you want to use the DX drop-in, plus you want to use a piezo as the switch then you need to translate the momentary bridge a piezo gives you into a latching system. A standard piezo will only give you a bridge of continuity for a split second. You need that momentary bridge to latch 'On' until you press it again for 'Off'.

The Hall switch that 350' is referring to has the advantage of being a latching circuit. Otherwise you will need to make your own.

Thanks for all the advice, I apologize for being less than electronic savy. I normally stick to mechanical/ automotive projects.

Klem, I believe I've found someone to make the latching switch you posted the schematics for when you started this thread.

 

[Klem]

That's good news...the latching circuit components only cost a few dollars at your electronics shop and by being frugal with space on the board it can fit inside the Maglite handle just forward of the switch.

 

[jonnywoods]

Klem!!! thank you great info! I'm just getting into building a few dive lights and the problem of switch selection/type/method is proving to be the most challenging aspect. But you have shown the way! I must ask though can you recommend a source or evan a specific switch? thanks in advance!

 

[Klem]

Johnny,
It depends...Plenty of info on dive torch switches in the forum archives.

What is your design?