A light that checks all my boxes??? 1x18650

[Geometric]

Hi all. First time poster. What a completely comprehensive site you have here.

I am looking for my first quality flashlight and I never imagined there would be so many options out there.

Use will be general/edc. From what I have seen so far a 1x18650 light should fill the needs I have.

Here is what is most important to me:

- $70 Max.
- Able to select from high to low previous to turning the light on.
- Mode Memory

So far I like the EagleTac DC25LC2. Although it doesn't look like it has mode memory. Also, the lows don't seem as low as I would like (not imperative).

The Fenix PD35 looks to close too, but I don't believe you have the option of switching from highest to lowest without turning it on? Also doesn't look like it can tail stand.

I've also looked at similar offerings from Thrunite and Nightcore, but frankly all of these specs and features are starting to spin in my head. Lol.

Is there a light that does those three things?

Thanks for any and all recommendations.

 

[cland72]

Here are some to look at:
Niteye MSC20
Niteye EYE15
Sunwayman V25C

 

[Poppy]

Here are some to look at:
Niteye MSC20
Niteye EYE15
Sunwayman V25C

Yes... I have a MSC20 ... very nice.

 

[markr6]

So far I like the EagleTac DC25LC2. Although it doesn't look like it has mode memory. Also, the lows don't seem as low as I would like (not imperative).

No memory and a bright low mode drives me crazy. I want to love it, but can't. And the darn strobe modes if you cycle twice!

The Fenix PD35 looks to close too, but I don't believe you have the option of switching from highest to lowest without turning it on? Also doesn't look like it can tail stand.

No you can't select the mode first. So if you turn it on in the middle of the night, will you be blinded? Who knows?! I've really learned to hate this side switch (I have two PD32UEs)

I keep coming back to my Zebralights to fix all the above, and more, issues. A bit expensive at $85, the SC62/SC62w/SC62d are amazing lights. I'm trying to think of other options, but nothing comes to mind since noone else seems to make a light that fits all my needs.

 

[bmo]

I'd second a Zebralight SC62 series. You can find coupon codes out there to a number of the online vendors to bring the price down a little. The UI has spoiled me too.

On the other hand, I have the Eagletac D25A, their 1xAA model. I'd assume it has the same operation as the D25LC2 since they're in the same series of lights (correct me if I'm wrong). On my D25A it does have a lower low mode the moonlight mode, but you have to enable it manually first. So that way you can turn it on to high, or into the low low mode from off.

The Zebralights and the Eagletac (at least my D25A) can turn on directly into high, or directly into moonlight mode from off. I don't think I'd ever buy another light that couldn't do that. It's way too useful. Case in point, my PD35 is sort of collecting dust at this point since I got an SC62w

 

[Geometric]

Here are some to look at:
Niteye MSC20
Niteye EYE15
Sunwayman V25C

Did a quick look at all three. They look like great lights. I hadn't seen those UI's yet. Great ideas, but still no way to turn the light on at a guaranteed min level, to prevent blowing out night vision.

No memory and a bright low mode drives me crazy. I want to love it, but can't. And the darn strobe modes if you cycle twice!

Thanks for this markr6. You just made my decision not to go with this light. Those were the exact issues that I was concerned about.

I have looked at the zebralights and the UI looks terrific. I just don't know if I could spend the dough. A quick look around and I didn't even see any in stock. Any suggestions on where to find one?

I love would love to hear some more suggestions, if there are any?

 

[whizdumb]

Not 18650.. But.. If you can live with a 17670 battery then go with a quark 123x2 tactical with burst.. Load up a single 17670 which is pretty comparable to an 18650's size and you'll have a fantastic edc light.. After I found the quark 123x2 tacticals, my search for the perfect edc light was over..

On a side note.. Another great light that you might like is the Lumapower Trust model 2.. Like $45.00 on batteryjunction. They have a unique interface that might solve your problem, take 18650's, and will tail stand..

 

[sveqs]

How about eagletac t200c2? Three power levels preselected by twisting the head, fwd clicky to power up. Runs on 18650. Low is 10 lumens

 

[Geometric]

Thanks everyone. These are some excellent suggestions.

Its funny, because the first light that caught my eye was the 4sevens Quark QP2L-X with burst. Somehow I almost completely forgot about it. Lol.

Although, I'm glad I did to ahead and order it yesterday, because the T200c2 REALLY has my eye now. I'm gonna look for a few more reviews before I make a decision between these two.

 

[Bob Damon]

+1 for the T200C2, I really like the Twist control, output, and build quality. And the price, it is a bargain. One if my best value light purchases.

 

[honeyands]

I have the thrunite TN12 2014 edition. Low mode is 0.3 lm and it has mode memory.
Ridiculously bright for the money in turbo mode. For me the perfect edc light.
Is say go for that as it'll come in under budget and be a great first light.


Sent from my iPhone using Candlepowerforums

 

[Str8stroke]

If you shop around you can get a 47 Maelstrom MM-X close to your budget. It has a very neat UI. It is like the Quark mentioned above but uses a 18650. I would do the Quark, but just wanted to let you know they do make a 18650 light that works that way.

 

[Geometric]

Yeah, I'm having the toughest time deciding. Bob Damon, thanks for your opinion on the T200C2. I haven't been able to find many reviews on it.

Str8stroke, I did just check out the MMR-X, but I'll have to go back and look at the MM-X. I could probably justify the additional cost of the MMR-X, because you would essentially be eliminating the cost of a charger for the 18650's. Anyone have experience with either of these lights?



So can I ask everyone's opinion on something? Looking at the lowest levels on the two lights, is 0.5 lumens more useful than a 10 lumen low? I understand that's a personal use question, but it's something I'm hooked on. Maybe a better way to state the question is, will the 10 lumen low of the eagletag ruin my night-vision when I'm fumbling around in the dark in the morning, trying not to wake my family?

Also, would you trade the 0.5 lumen low on the QP2L-X for the ability to use 18650's in the T200C2?

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[Str8stroke]

I have a few lights that can the battery can be charged inside the light. But, I don't really do it often. Except for my SF Commander. It has a proprietary cell. I like to pull them out and charge them in a manner that I can monitor the discharge & charge levels. A decent charger can be had for around $15. Nitecore I2 or I4 work well. I feel confident in my guess that the built in light chargers aren't as good as a external. Not even considering safety. Safety wise you basically could have a pipe bomb if the cell or charger were defective! I would also suggest only using high quality cells. Nothing with "fire" in the name!!!! I can't stress that enough.

On the low lumen. Per your described scenario I find anything under 3 lumen perfect. 10 or 15 is way to bright for my preference.

Your last question is not hard for me. I love the UI of the QP2L-X, I am pretty darn sure it will run with a 17670 (I have several of these for some of my other lights) cell as mentioned before. Get the light and 2 HIGH QUALITY cells and one of the chargers I mentioned. Then learn and practice the lights UI. Hit youtube there are a few videos that will help you learn how to program it.
The average user wouldn't notice the difference between runtimes of the 18650 & 17670. Why would I do this combo. Because my programming & fuel options are endless. You can use 2 CR123 primaries if you want or the 17670. Can someone who has tried the 17670 in this light chime in.

 

[whizdumb]

I have a few lights that can the battery can be charged inside the light. But, I don't really do it often. Except for my SF Commander. It has a proprietary cell. I like to pull them out and charge them in a manner that I can monitor the discharge & charge levels. A decent charger can be had for around $15. Nitecore I2 or I4 work well. I feel confident in my guess that the built in light chargers aren't as good as a external. Not even considering safety. Safety wise you basically could have a pipe bomb if the cell or charger were defective! I would also suggest only using high quality cells. Nothing with "fire" in the name!!!! I can't stress that enough.

On the low lumen. Per your described scenario I find anything under 3 lumen perfect. 10 or 15 is way to bright for my preference.

Your last question is not hard for me. I love the UI of the QP2L-X, I am pretty darn sure it will run with a 17670 (I have several of these for some of my other lights) cell as mentioned before. Get the light and 2 HIGH QUALITY cells and one of the chargers I mentioned. Then learn and practice the lights UI. Hit youtube there are a few videos that will help you learn how to program it.
The average user wouldn't notice the difference between runtimes of the 18650 & 17670. Why would I do this combo. Because my programming & fuel options are endless. You can use 2 CR123 primaries if you want or the 17670. Can someone who has tried the 17670 in this light chime in.

I run this setup everyday and I can confirm that it works like a charm.. Everything down to the Nitecore charger and I use AW protected 17670 button tops. Not problems here and I've literally run this setup for months and months..

 

[reppans]

I'll +2 with the folks on the QP2L-X BM for its 0.5/5 lms lows - they're what I use ~45/45% of the time... "General/EDC" tends to be more close task oriented where you'll appreciate lower lows that don't fry your night vision and extend your runtime. The Quark will also be floodier (much easier on the eyes for task work at close to medium ranges) and significantly small/lighter for EDC pocket carry. 47s warranty & US CS is also 10x better (ET warranty is actually only 1yr) should something go wrong. You could use a 17670, but Sanyo's 16650 cell has even more capacity (sold under the Keeppower name)... I personally run mine on 1x IMR 14500 cells since I use low lows so much (with momentary blasts of 800 lms ). (But if I could only have one, I would go with the low voltage Quark XML head (~400 lms) which can run AAs in a pinch).

Course, if you're looking for more of a thrower.....

 

[Geometric]

Somehow I've narrowed it down and increased my choices to three lights, all at the same time. What the heck?

So I really like ALMOST everything about FourSevens. If the MM-X was more in my budget, I'd say that'd be the one. I just don't have $100 to spend right now. Now it's between the QT2L-X and the QB2L-X. I'm considering the Turbo because the more I think about and look at the smaller Quarks, the more I'm concerned with heat build up. That's why I'm considering the Turbo (wouldn't mind a bit more throw as well).

Here's my question, for those of you who with Quark Tactical's or Pro's, do you often run the "Burst" more than one minute, for any reason? I can only guess that doing this often would not be good for the light, heat-wise?

Do they handle the heat well if ran on the High setting for prolonged periods of time, lets say 5-20 min.?

I assume that the Quark Turbo would dissipate heat pretty well with the larger head and head sinks, so none of the above would be an issue with this light?

Thanks, as always.

 

[Str8stroke]

I have several lego versions of the 47 Quarks. One of my favorite lights for the price & value. I can attest to the kick butt heat dissipation capabilities of the Turbo head. Here is a link to some pics I did yesterday with some of my legos.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?390504-Beamshot-comparison-of-quark-heads

 

[Geometric]

Thanks for that link Str8stoke.

I ordered a Quark QT2L-X with Burst last night. Although, I was still only 50% confident in my choice over the Turbo model.

I guess at some point, with no flashlight experience, I just have to see something in action to know what I really want. The ultimate choice came down to pocketability over throw. Still hoping the Tactical has a bit of throw to it anyway.

Good news is I'll know on Saturday night!!

I came close to ordering both with plans to return the one I didn't like, but I'm not sure that would be the most honest thing to do with a product like this. I mean, I do sometimes with clothes (trying different sizes, etc.), but I think that's acceptable when shopping online.

Thanks again for everyone's time.

 

[Str8stroke]

Congrats!
You hit the nail on the head. You have to buy them to see what works for you and what you like. We all have different opinions. I think you did it right. For edc, the one you ordered is the way to go. The Turbo head is a better throw & overall performer, but really is a bulge in your front pocket.

One suggestion: You can always just order the Turbo head later! Then you can swap things around to your liking. That is what we call Lego. And to me is one of my favorite hobby past times. It reminds me of child hood memories. So you too can now take a walk down memory lane should you choose.

Now, don't be depressed when you first get the light. It has a programming learning curve! If its your first light like this, it may seem like the light is broken or acting "funny". I suggest hitting youtube and watching a few programming (UI) videos before you get the light. Just search Quark programming. It comes with directions, but I find a video more useful.

So, how do I have mine programmed?

On my Tactical, I set it where when the light is tight its on ultra low. Then loosen it and high blasts away.
On my Turbo, Tight is Turbo, loose is strobe.

I also find myself gravitating towards the Turbo head light more often. Why you ask? Well I like the feel in my hand. I like the looks and lastly the thing is a palm sized throw machine.

One other item that is note worthy. SOME of the Tacs have what is called PreFlash. This is where if you have it on the low setting; when you first press the switch it has a quick flash of high. Some folks it bothers, others it doesn't. My Tac does it and sorta bugs me. So to mitigate this if I plan to first turn it on in low mode, I put my hand over the lens or press it against my body whilst pressing the one button. If I am pulling it from my pocket, I press the button before I draw the light. This way the flash doesn't blind me late at night. Having said all this, yours may not do it at all. Also, don't ask me why it does it. One of the more experienced members reading this may be able to tell you the technical reason it does this.

So cheer and good luck checking the mail box and or listening for the UPS truck.