A Tribute to Nitecore D10

[jon_slider]

Smooth threads in titanium are really something, huh ?

yes, seems there is "as machined" titanium,
and then there is Polished Titanium :thumbsup:

Nitecore D10 AA lights are rare as hens teeth.
there is a similar, more plentiful CR123 model:
the EX11.2 being discussed in this other thread.

 

[WarriorOfLight]

Nitecore D10 AA lights are rare as hens teeth.

Yes Nitecore D10 lights are not that often offered in the WTS section anymore.... It is a great "classic" flashlight from the good old days.

I like your Hanko D10, it is a cool design :thumbsup:

 

[DHart]

I'm thinking of having my D10 R2 modded. I would like a floody, creamy beam, about 4000k, without an intense hot spot.

Can this be done relatively simply? New emitter. Would a new reflector also be needed?

Anyone know how to convert the light to running Anduril? (I know that someone has done this before.)

 

[WarriorOfLight]

Replscing the LED is easy. If you have the LED on a small PCB than you only need to un solder the wires replacing the PCB with the LED and re-soldering the wires.
The easiest way on getting a beam without hotspot is sanding the reflector, paint the refle tor White or use some transparent tape on the lens.
Regarding changing the UI, the controller of the D10 can be reflashed. Unfortunately I do not remember anymor what contoller was used in the D10. It is years ago when I disassembled the electronics. But I would stay at the ramping UI, it is perfect, at least to ne.

 

[DHart]

Replscing the LED is easy. If you have the LED on a small PCB than you only need to un solder the wires replacing the PCB with the LED and re-soldering the wires.
The easiest way on getting a beam without hotspot is sanding the reflector, paint the refle tor White or use some transparent tape on the lens.
Regarding changing the UI, the controller of the D10 can be reflashed. Unfortunately I do not remember anymor what contoller was used in the D10. It is years ago when I disassembled the electronics. But I would stay at the ramping UI, it is perfect, at least to ne.

Thank you... I will give that a try. What emitter would you choose? And - no problems fitting in the hole of the reflector? I was thinking perhaps Nichia 219BT 3500k.

Would it be better to have dome on the emitter, or dome-less?

 

[WarriorOfLight]

I would choose something warm like the 219B 3500k you mentionen. At all the 219b should fit perfect if your D10 has a XP-G LED. There are also XR E LED D10 Lights with a different reflector. But anyway in both cases a 219B or something with the same dimensions will fit well.

 

[DHart]

I would choose something warm like the 219B 3500k you mentionen. At all the 219b should fit perfect if your D10 has a XP-G LED. There are also XR E LED D10 Lights with a different reflector. But anyway in both cases a 219B or something with the same dimensions will fit well.

Excellent - I think a nice warm, floody Nichia would completely refresh my interest and appreciation in my D10s. Just the ticket!

I have option of 10mm or 16mm base, and need about 14mm - 10mm would work fine (being fairly small in the larger space?). Or should I get 16mm and Dremel down the base diameter?

 

[jon_slider]

depending which D10 version you have (some D11.2 owners call them D10), the LED replacement strategy does or does not involve using a replacement MCPCB

the driver with XP-G (on right, Red) is version 11.2. It does not require a new mcpcb to use Nichia. These models have blinkies from Off, that I find a bit problematic. I prefer the version 10 driver, but it is slightly more challenging to get the LED centered.

I reflow the Nichia onto the stock mcpcb on the v 11.2 lights, in order to retain the ability to use the stock centering ring, as on the right:

this Hanko D10 host has D11.2 driver, you can see the XPG I removed, it is now using a 219b and has an excellent beam. The Nichia LED was reflowed onto the stock 11.2 mcpcb

no need to shave the dome to use Nichia 219b

the Version 10 lights, with older LEDs
require replacing the mcpcb, and centering the LED manually.. and possibly also require raising the LED to meet the reflector, depending on what the original LED was.

if you use a 10mm board, the centering can be adjusted. That is the simple approach, that I would use, if the original LED is mounted at the same height.

if you use a 16mm board you would need to reduce its size and in that process it is possible to shape it just right, to get the LED to be centered.. this shaping is more difficult, but also potentially more precise as far as centering, and offers a larger thermal contact to shed heat, theoretically better.

In my experience the 10mm board works fine at shedding heat.. even with LiIon, though I prefer the regulated output from Primaries.

customized mcpcb on left, stock 11.2 on right

 

[DHart]

Jon... these are my two D10s, both are marked "D10 R2" - but they are slightly different.

Would either of these be a better candidate for swapping in a Nichia 219BT? I think what's in there are an XP-E R2 in the light with the green driver and XR-E R2 in the light with the red driver.

 

[Lithium466]

The one on the right would be a direct swap!
The other one would be a little bit trickier to get the led centered, but that's totally doable too.

 

[DHart]

Seeking help locating Battery Springs, as used in version 10 lights.

The gold plated spring on the right is from an EX10 Ti and is softer than the nickel plated spring used in the EX11.2 models

For me, the softer spring from Version 10 lights, is much nicer to use, and it works with protected batteries. It is not necessary to limit the Piston Drive lights to unprotected batteries, when using the softer spring.

In my experience, the resistance of the piston in the 11.2 models is not fixed by lubrication of the piston sleeve.. the battery spring is the primary source of the piston resistance.

I'm right there with you, Jon, on desiring a softer spring in the D10. Both of mine require a considerable amount of pressure to operate. I just don't need that much stiffness! For my purposes, a nice light touch would be fine and not present any problems.

Any ideas on replacement springs?

Can you tell from the emitters in my photos if the Nichia and new board would have to be raised? I think what's in there are an XP-E R2 in the light with the green driver and XR-E R2 in the light with the red driver.

 

[DHart]

The one on the right would be a direct swap!
The other one would be a little bit trickier to get the led centered, but that's totally doable too.

Very good. Thanks.

 

[jon_slider]

II think what's in there are an XP-E R2 in the light with the green driver and XR-E R2 in the light with the red driver.

great photos and info, thanks, I trust Lithium466 knows his stuff, when he talks, I listen.

The one on the right would be a direct swap!
The other one would be a little bit trickier to get the led centered, but that's totally doable too.

so nice to see you here, thanks for the confirmation that a 219b can replace the XP, keeping the stock mcpcb and centering ring

curious, to replace the XR.. would you lift a new 10mm mcpcb with the new LED, using copper washers?

kaidomain will put a 2700k LH351d onto a 10mm mcpcb.. so DHart would only need to solder wires, no LED reflow task..

I have only modded models with XP LEDs and have not figured out how to tackle one of my XR lights.. tips appreciated

 

[DHart]

great photos and info, thanks, I trust Lithium466 knows his stuff, when he talks, I listen.



so nice to see you here, thanks for the confirmation that a 219b can replace the XP, keeping the stock mcpcb and centering ring

curious, to replace the XR.. would you lift a new 10mm mcpcb with the new LED, using copper washers?

kaidomain will put a 2700k LH351d onto a 10mm mcpcb.. so DHart would only need to solder wires, no LED reflow task..

I have only modded models with XP LEDs and have not figured out how to tackle one of my XR lights.. tips appreciated

I'm ok with replacing an emitter with a new emitter on a new board. I'm not comfortable taking on reflowing an LED to an existing board. SO... I hope I can just swap in a new board with an emitter already on it!

 

[ninemm]

Very good. Thanks.

Hi Dhart! I recently modified two D10s with modern emitters. Really rejuvenated the lights and turned them into something truly enjoyable to use. I did a domeless XPL HI and a Nichia 219C 4k. Sold the XPL and kept the Nichia.

This was the thread I referenced and also added to with some pics of my own. Mike/calipsoii was very helpful: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...bute-with-a-Nichia-219-HCRI-emitter-pic-heavy

 

[jon_slider]

I'm ok with replacing an emitter with a new emitter on a new board. I'm not comfortable taking on reflowing an LED to an existing board.

to be accurate, the one on the right, red board, looks like XPG to me, and uses the same solder pad design as Nichia 219b..

if youre lucky, the new 10mm board that comes with an LED already reflowed, will be the same thickness as the one coming out, and the centering ring will fit the same as w the stock star

for future skill development
reflowing is easier than soldering those tiny wires in small spaces

 

[DHart]

Hi Dhart! I recently modified two D10s with modern emitters. Really rejuvenated the lights and turned them into something truly enjoyable to use. I did a domeless XPL HI and a Nichia 219C 4k. Sold the XPL and kept the Nichia.

This was the thread I referenced and also added to with some pics of my own. Mike/calipsoii was very helpful: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...bute-with-a-Nichia-219-HCRI-emitter-pic-heavy

Fantastic, 9mm! Thanks for the great info!

Color me .40S&W!

 

[DHart]

to be accurate, the one on the right, red board, looks like XPG to me, and uses the same solder pad design as Nichia 219b..

if youre lucky, the new 10mm board that comes with an LED already reflowed, will be the same thickness as the one coming out, and the centering ring will fit the same as w the stock star

for future skill development
reflowing is easier than soldering those tiny wires in small spaces

Wow... I guess I need to get a lot more familiar with reflowing!

I do understand the reluctance to doing such tiny soldering work. I've done a LOT of soldering work modding my guitars, but the connections are in much more open confines and making larger-size solder connections.

 

[jon_slider]

Mike/calipsoii was very helpful: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...bute-with-a-Nichia-219-HCRI-emitter-pic-heavy
...

that helps me too, thanks for the great info
fwiw, it is not necessary to remove the split gold ring at all, pill unscrews with split ring installed

question on that MTN 16mm mcpcb, did you use any centering ring?

Wow... I guess I need to get a lot more familiar with reflowing!

I think this board and LED might work in your XR light with the green driver, based on the great post by ninemm.

or you could get a warm Nichia 219c (not my fave) on 16mm...

I have similar board in a D10 I received with an XP-L Hi, same as ninemm, now modded to 219b. It seems to use the stock white plastic XR centering ring/reflector spacer, you pictured with your green driver on the left above.

for those interested in learning to modify their LEDs, here is some of the kit I put together, with the advice of several mentors:

pic is a link to the reflow hotplate

 

[DHart]

I found an XP-L HI V2 5A domeless emitter, that I bought a few years ago from Mtn. Electronics. On a 16mm MCPCB.

I decided to take the plunge with the green driver I posted above. Desoldered the XP-E MCPCB, popped it out, dropped in the XP-L HI V2 5A (domeless) emitter, soldered it up, and works fine. Warmer, softer, floodier than the old XP-E - exactly what I wanted! Perfect for around the house at night.

I'm going to order up a Nichia 219C 4000k 90CRI from Mtn Electronics and pop it in my other D10. Finally, my unused D10s have my interest and use again!