Sold/Expired All Sold! Silver Plated, Copper Triple Emitter P60 Shells

[DellSuperman]

Thanks alot Matt!
My shells are the earlier version, without the ground screw hole, so I can't use that method.
So I guess press fit will work, if you say so. hahaha...

 

[Mattaus]

Thanks alot Matt!
My shells are the earlier version, without the ground screw hole, so I can't use that method.
So I guess press fit will work, if you say so. hahaha...

Oh...well in this case you will need to solder them otherwise you won't get a proper ground connection...

 

[DragonHead]

Anyone care to share their ways of soldering the driver to the shell?
I had problems soldering them on, so i ended up press fitting them so they are a tight fit & apply minimum solder, which i am not sure if it is sticking or not.

That minimum solder holds a lot better than you think.
I do the same as you, and when it came time to rebuild one, I could not get that thing apart!

 

[DellSuperman]

That minimum solder holds a lot better than you think.
I do the same as you, and when it came time to rebuild one, I could not get that thing apart!

When I rebuilt one of mine, the driver came out pretty easily, thats why i came out to ask.
It seem like it was the spring pressure that was holding the driver in place rather than the solder.
Btw, care to share how you manage to solder on the copper shell?

 

[m4a1usr]

When I rebuilt one of mine, the driver came out pretty easily, thats why i came out to ask.
It seem like it was the spring pressure that was holding the driver in place rather than the solder.
Btw, care to share how you manage to solder on the copper shell?

Cant speak for DragonHead but I can answer that question with my technique. When soldering a 17mm driver on to a copper P60 I always heat the body with a heat shrink gun while the solder pencil is getting hot. A minute or so with the HS gun about an inch away usually brings the P60 up to about 200 deg F or there abouts. That way the solder tip doesn't need to heat up the rest of the P60 while soldering to the thinner walled driver section side.

 

[DragonHead]

Cant speak for DragonHead but I can answer that question with my technique. When soldering a 17mm driver on to a copper P60 I always heat the body with a heat shrink gun while the solder pencil is getting hot. A minute or so with the HS gun about an inch away usually brings the P60 up to about 200 deg F or there abouts. That way the solder tip doesn't need to heat up the rest of the P60 while soldering to the thinner walled driver section side.

Hey thats a good idea with the heat gun!
I just turn up my iron, get the largest tip and heat up the lip of the socket. First put a squirt of solder paste in the spot you are heating. when it starts to react to the heat I put the iron on the driver and lip and dab at the melting solder paste with the wire solder.
hope that makes sense.

 

[LightJunk]

Finally the LE & driver arrived today. Dedomed XP-L V6 2C and BLF17DD with 60 secs turbo timer. Extremely bright. The shell handles the heat really well. I used FM 26650 C host and during that 60 secs of turbo mode the body and head is hot but not up to the extend burning the palm. Excellent shell. I should have bought more.

 

[Mattaus]

Finally the LE & driver arrived today. Dedomed XP-L V6 2C and BLF17DD with 60 secs turbo timer. Extremely bright. The shell handles the heat really well. I used FM 26650 C host and during that 60 secs of turbo mode the body and head is hot but not up to the extend burning the palm. Excellent shell. I should have bought more.

Nice build

I'll be building something very similar to this myself shortly!

 

[DragonHead]

Wow! Got my batch yesterday.... Really nice. Thanks boss.
H.

 

[drillbitz11]

Finally the LE & driver arrived today. Dedomed XP-L V6 2C and BLF17DD with 60 secs turbo timer. Extremely bright. The shell handles the heat really well. I used FM 26650 C host and during that 60 secs of turbo mode the body and head is hot but not up to the extend burning the palm. Excellent shell. I should have bought more.

Hi there, I'm having a hard time finding these BLF 17 drivers. Are they the ones Mountain Electronics sells? Anyway, I checked yesterday and he didn't have any available. Could you please direct me in the right direction?

 

[drillbitz11]

Hi Mattaus, Will we see another run of these anytime soon. I noticed them just a little too late! (Maybe you have one extra around?)

 

[Mattaus]

Hi there, I'm having a hard time finding these BLF 17 drivers. Are they the ones Mountain Electronics sells? Anyway, I checked yesterday and he didn't have any available. Could you please direct me in the right direction?

YOu can build them yourself from scratch if you are handy with a soldering iron and a programmer. I'd link you to the thread detailing this but its on another forum. I"ll PM you the details.

 

[LightJunk]

Hi there, I'm having a hard time finding these BLF 17 drivers. Are they the ones Mountain Electronics sells? Anyway, I checked yesterday and he didn't have any available. Could you please direct me in the right direction?

Yes it's the one from Mountain Electronics. Like Mattaus said more info in the other forum.

Just an update on the dropin. The dedomed XP-L gave out yellow tint which I don't like at all. I removed/destroyed it in the process & put in a non dedomed triple XP-L. Some how the carclo optics fits into it nicely without modification.

 

[DellSuperman]

Yup, it should fit the XPL since their footprint is the same as the XPG and the optic fits XPG pretty well..

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

I am actually quite surprised they fit as I have read elsewhere that people have had to cut the openings a bit for them to fit. The Carlco optic was originally designed for the XP-E emitter, not necessarily the XP line of LEDs altogether.

 

[LightJunk]

I'm surprised as well as I read that it won't fit because of the high dome. Initially I wanted to drill the bore where the dome sits in per the instruction from another forum. Luckily I didn't. Otherwise I would have spoil the optic. I took measurements to compare with another dropin of mine, a triple nichia 219 noctigon MCPCB & same carclo optics, they were of the same height. I didn't take any pictures of that though.

I have few pictures below to show it sits just nice in the optic. This is a domed triple XP-L V6 3D bin from intl-outdoor. I reflowed it myself.

 

[ShineOnYouCrazyDiamond]

Very nice, I may need to try and make up one of those myself to test. Let us know about the beam profile compared with XP-G2.
It would appear that at 1.5Amps you may be looking at an additional 150+ lumens per LED. If your pushing it with the FET driver and a solid IMR you could be getting 2+ Amps per LED for a seriously bright light.

 

[AndyF]

Any possibility of doing a set for Carclo 10621 quad optics?.

I would be in for 2 to 4.


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[Mattaus]

Any possibility of doing a set for Carclo 10621 quad optics?.

I would be in for 2 to 4.


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I'd talk to Vinh. I designed the shells he used for his quads and I think he is having them made domestically now, but I'm not around as much as I used to be so I have no idea what he's up to now.