Anyone buy the Armytek Tiara A1 or C1 yet?

[Woods Walker]

Hehe, I'm a low lumen mode spacing snob - an efficient and "bright" 0.3-0.5 lm moonlight, along with a good 3-5 lm low, are my top priorities and what I use 90+% of the time. Even coughed up for an HDS (despite disliking the CR123 platform) to ensure that spacing after so many disappointments with bad low lumen specs from various manufacturers.

No question if a company brags about firefly technology or whatever they had better deliver. You're 100% right.

 

[divestoclimb]

I just got back from a 2-day trip on Mt Baker where I was one of the climbing guides. Finally I've put this headlamp to its intended use.

Impressions from the field:

The warm color really stands out since most climbers use cool LED headlamps, but I liked it. It just felt less like hiking in the dark.

I did most of my glacier travel on Main2 because night is so short this time of year. Main1 is plenty for most of the time, but at the head of the rope team I wanted more light.

I occasionally would use Main3 or Super to help scout the route ahead and the light does a decent job at that, illuminating snow slopes hundreds of feet away, but its beam pattern can't throw that well for the power level. The lead guide had a headlamp with a high-power spot beam that worked better. I think this light was still a good choice since it's optimal for what I use it for 90% of the time (walking) and at least acceptable for routefinding.

On the day of the climb I was only carrying one spare AA Eneloop battery with me. Although my GPS normally has no trouble lasting a whole day on a set of batteries, this time it died after ~9 hours. I was able to use the headlamp battery plus the spare to get it running again; score one for interchangeables!

 

[blah9]

That sounds like a blast! Thank you for sharing. And I'm glad the headlamp worked out pretty well for you.

 

[zr2yz125]

I received my Tiara A1 v2 warm as a gift to replace the Petzl I've used for 10 years. I was so excited to get it as a gift, only to find that it didn't work out of the box. On max power mode it flickers randomly, continually changing intensity. All of the other modes function correctly.

I contacted their support department and after a few days I received an email from Sandra. I received a boiler plate style email asking me questions that I had already given answers to in my original email. She asked that I take a video of the flashlight malfunctioning and show me removing the battery from the tiara and inserting it into another flashlight to prove the battery works?!? As if I am going to lie about trying multiple different fully charged Eneloops off my LaCrosse BC1000. Is this the level of service I should expect from armytek?

I should also note that it was ordered direct thru armytek's website and drop shipped from China.

Has as anyone else been thru this with armytek?

Thanks in advance....

 

[scs]

Either head over to Armytek's subforum or do a search and you'll see that at least several people have had to go through this hassle-free process to get a refund or replacement. Some really blow a gasket doing it, others not so much.

 

[garbman]

Finally I have pulled the trigger and bought Two Tiara's A1 One pro and one simple.
both of them warm's
I have bought them from different sources. One from NKON the othe from HKequipment.
the problem is with the Pro version.
The tint is not warm is YELLOW.
I have tried with my photo camera to measure the Kelvins and it showed me ~3400k.
The problem of course is that with such a low temperature it changes the color of the objects.
if something is pure white then it makes it yellow, if it's yellow it oversaturated it.
The simple version came in about 3800k so it's very close to 4000k and of course I'm very pleased with it.
Is anyone else have such tint problem ?

 

[Beacon of Light]

So do the V2 Pro versions of the Tiara/Wizard now come with built in voltage indicators? On the spec sheets on Armytek's website it says it does, but I specifically remember me ranting about them dropping the voltage indicator on the V2 units because of lack of memory space to include it. I can't believe their specs page would be wrong considering the V2 versions have been out close to a year already. Which is correct?

 

[D6859]

So do the V2 Pro versions of the Tiara/Wizard now come with built in voltage indicators? On the spec sheets on Armytek's website it says it does, but I specifically remember me ranting about them dropping the voltage indicator on the V2 units because of lack of memory space to include it. I can't believe their specs page would be wrong considering the V2 versions have been out close to a year already. Which is correct?

IIRC last time I checked their manual for v2 it didn't describe the usage of the meter. Now it does. Maybe they've updated both model and manual.

 

[Beacon of Light]

Yeah it is weird that it was gone and now magically re-appeared... with no word on this from the company itself.

 

[D6859]

IIRC last time I checked their manual for v2 it didn't describe the usage of the meter. Now it does. Maybe they've updated both model and manual.

Sorry, the old manual on my computer (which I think I was referring to) is for non-Pro version, which doesn't describe the voltage meter for obvious reason. But it seems to have re-appeared anyway!

 

[Kilovolt]

I have just received a Tiara C1 Pro V2 and I am looking for advice. The light appears to work as it should and I plan to use it for EDC/pocket carry and not as a headlamp. There's however a few things I don't understand.

The first question is about the 'specifying the battery type ...' Since I use alternatively an AW RCR123 or an unprotected 18350 how should I behave? The phrase in the manual 'Do not specify the type of power source manually unless you use unprotected Li-ion batteries different from those that are stated by default' means nothing to me.

Secondly, is this choice you make a permanent one? Or it has to be made every time you change the battery which means also whenever you unscrew the tailcap for lock-out.

Last: is there any way to switch off the blinking LED in the switch? The manual says that the multicolor state indicator does not work in the off mode but it does.

Thanks for shedding some light ...

 

[D6859]

I have just received a Tiara C1 Pro V2 and I am looking for advice. The light appears to work as it should and I plan to use it for EDC/pocket carry and not as a headlamp. There's however a few things I don't understand.

The first question is about the 'specifying the battery type ...' Since I use alternatively an AW RCR123 or an unprotected 18350 how should I behave? The phrase in the manual 'Do not specify the type of power source manually unless you use unprotected Li-ion batteries different from those that are stated by default' means nothing to me.

Secondly, is this choice you make a permanent one? Or it has to be made every time you change the battery which means also whenever you unscrew the tailcap for lock-out.

Last: is there any way to switch off the blinking LED in the switch? The manual says that the multicolor state indicator does not work in the off mode but it does.

Thanks for shedding some light ...

If I've understtoop correct, selecting the battery type is for protecting the battery (and you). If you are using unprotected 18350 select the mode with 2 clicks. The headlamp will turn off by itself when battery voltage drops down (to 2.7 V or somth). If you select the mode with 1 click, the headlamp will allow unprotected battery deplept to lower voltage which isn't safe. This is better choice when you're using protected battery. In that case protection circuit on the battery will cut the current at 2.5 V so you can run all the juice out of the battery. I think you will be safe using selecting the mode 2 for both battery types. You can test it: Use protected battery. Select mode 2, run the headlamp until it turns off by itself, measure the voltage, select mode 1 and see if it still runs until the protection circuit cuts the current, measure the voltage. First measured voltage should be higher than the cut-off voltage 2.45 V of an AW RCR123.

IIRC Armytek replied in some thread that choice is memorized.

Have you tried instructions for Wizard Pro v2? "Switching Multicolor State Indication ON/OFF. It is switched off by default in OFF-state and Firefly modes. To turn on and off: unscrewthe tailcap to 1/4, press the button and holding the button pressed - tighten the tailcap and then unscrew it again. The settings will bememorized even when battery is changed." I've noticed it's quite hard to keep holding the button and if the headlamp turns on I've failed. Try it couple of times.

 

[Kilovolt]

Thanks for your comments.

I'll follow your advice and leave the light in battery mode 2 to be safe.

As to the state indication LED in the switch I have tried unsuccessfully the procedure written in the Wizard's manual. This part of the instructions is not included in the Tiara's manual though.

More playing with the light showed me that:

When the light is switched on in a firefly mode the indicator blinks for 1 ,2, 3 or 4 times to show the battery level then goes out but only while the flashlight is on. With normal modes the LED keeps blinking. Once the light is off the indicator starts blinking continuously. The only way I found to stop it is to unscrew the tailcap and screw it back on. When you screw it back the indicator stays off until the next time you switch on the flashlight but this state is not memorized so you have to do an unscrew/re-screw of the tailcap every time you switch the light off.

I hope my above explanation is clear enough and I would appreciate more comments/advice.

 

[Woods Walker]

Well some months later after looking I finally got around to ordering a Tiara A1 pro V2. I will compare it to my HL50 which has proven to be a winner. Mostly got this as it was on sale so will see what happens.

 

[blah9]

Great! I'm looking forward to hearing what you think.

 

[Woods Walker]

Great! I'm looking forward to hearing what you think.

It's being shipped now so will have the light soon enough for testing. Was considering getting 14500 but unsure as to what the output would be for the V2 on high. With either battery type I would consider that a turbo thing anyway.

 

[chadvone]

Got Tiara C1 on the way. On my prime pro AA the hi main 3 is same with NiMH and Li-Ion. Turbo or max there is a notable increase.

 

[Woods Walker]

The mail was slow but got it. No instructions or any indication as to what version I got. Illumination supply has it listed on my receipt at Pro V2 345 lumen Neutral White but how to know? Also have no clue what to do with this headband. I will check their website to see how it straps up. Seems bigger than I expected and more so when compared to the HL50. The tint is more warm than NW, with the HL50 being NW and this warmer. I will need some field testing to see which one is actually better. Cosmetically I like both tints (HL50 and Armytek). I am going to take it out for tonight's trail run. Thinking about doing a direct review comparing both the Armytek and Fenix but will have to use it for weeks first.

So how do I know which version beyond Illumination supply's description I got. Also are the instructions on the Armytk website accurate. They weren't for the Standard Predator.

Edit. I think I got the headband on right.

 

[chadvone]

My Tiara C1 was missing one of the head strap buckles. I robbed one from old rayovac headlight.
Also no manual.

 

[Woods Walker]

My Tiara C1 was missing one of the head strap buckles. I robbed one from old rayovac headlight.
Also no manual.

I got everything listed as what's including online plus what looks like a metal lanyard loop. It's not shown in the list of what's included but in the photo of the light so I guess it's complete minus manual.