Batteries for "torch" clone.

[Databyter]

I made a light a while back that draws about the same as a 12 cell "torch" using the 64623 bulb.
I sold it when I needed some cash but got a chance to get it back recently and want to top it off again. The cells got too low to charge.

My question is, since it's been over a year, are the elite aa 1700's I used last time still the best choice to drive this?

The batteries I use must be able to handle the amperage, which if memory serves is about 10 amps. Otherwise I'd be using enelopes like I do in the rest of my lights.

I'm searching around the site, but in the meantime I thought I'd toss this feeler out.

 

[fivemega]

Osram 64623 needs about 10 amps. Never use Eneloops for more than 4~5 Amps aplications.
Instead of high current Elite AAs, use Elite 2/3A which is even better but needs tri bored M*g D
If I were you, would use 4 IMR 26500 in bored out M*g "C"

 

[LuxLuthor]

Osram 64623 needs about 10 amps. Never use Eneloops for more than 4~5 Amps aplications.
Instead of high current Elite AAs, use Elite 2/3A which is even better but needs tri bored M*g D
If I were you, would use 4 IMR 26500 in bored out M*g "C"

I mostly agree, except the 2/3A Elite cells only have 1500mAh capacity vs. his newer Elite AA's in 2000mAh. In general, I found more "duds" among the 2/3A cells than the AA's. If you screen your batches of them, you can find and weed out the lemons. Remember they get these made in huge quantities by Chinese companies that have no concern for quality control. One of these days, I'll run some discharge tests on the AA's to see how they hold up, and compare to his "Capable of 15-25 amps with no problems" claim.

 

[Stephen Wallace]

I can't verify the 15-25A claim, but I am using 12 Elite 2000mAh AAs in an FM 12AA to 3D battery holder, in my own Mag623 build, and that has no problems in lighting up a 12v 100w bulb.

 

[Databyter]

Thanks for the replies, I'm using a quad bored mag host with a 12>3d FM holder. It was a light that I made, sold, and repurchased.

I went with the 2000 Mah Elites from CBP's and so far I can't test or condition them since my first observations are that they have very flat tops. The buttons are there but very low profile. If memory serves, when you build a pack at CBP they offer you buttons or buttonless, but under loose cells, you are looking at buttoned cells by default. I was never asked or given a choice that I saw from the loose cells section but these are so shallow that they make no contact with my smart charger.

On top of that, my FM holder appears to have corroded. I suspect very humid storage, or storage with the switch left open (which is consistant with the damaged cells).

Fivemega, what is the best way to clean the contacts that are pressed into the plastic dividers. They are now black and do not conduct, I don't know if I should be looking at a chemical solution or fine emory cloth?

I'll PM you. They are great holders, I've never had one do this. My question is only how I might rescue this one.

 

[LuxLuthor]

I'll copy my PM to you for others benefit:

Yeah you have to get the oxidation off the contacts....especially important for high current scenario. Use light pressure and fine automotive 1200 (or higher) grit so you don't take much off. Sometimes using a pencil eraser tip and cut a small square of the sandpaper, and rotate the pencil to press the paper.

If you have a Dremel, this is a perfect use for their tiny wire brush attachment. or this model of brush.

Some of FM's contacts were a strip of brass with raised contacts like shown in this photo. Those are just pressed into the Delrin, and you can easily pry them out for cleaning and press back in. If they ever get loose, a tiny drop of epoxy underneath will hold the strip.

I like to use the neodymium 1/8" or 3/16" diameter & 1/32" or 1/16" thick magnets to connect a string of them and charge all at once. You might be able to use those same magnets as button top spacers in the battery holder, but must make sure they are protecting from sliding out and shorting to maglite body, or against fivemega's center post rod. This is not as critical as using Lithium Cobalt Ion cells as far as shorting dangers...and they usually stay secure on the battery button top.

 

[Databyter]

Thanks Lux, those are great tips. FM also PM'd me some useful information.

lovecpf

 

[Databyter]

Just a lil cleanup and I'll be good to go, you see how dark they were. No idea what caused the corrosion.

I was able to use the Elite 2000 and achieve contact, although if any use these batts. in this holder you may need to use a washer under the top tightening screw to hold the batteries firmly. Without the standard sized buttons at the top the tightener was bottoming out before a good contact could be achieved.

I'm waiting for some of those magnets also so I can fit the new types into my smart charger individually to condition them., great site.

But in the meantime I can't resist charging the pack and trying the light once. Call it a pre conditioning test :naughty:

Hopefully the AW switch/holder are not affected. I guess I'll have to do an amp test and see what I draw and then compare it with the stats from lux's bulb destruction.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Good job cleaning up. They look like they were kept in seawater to get that much brass corrosion.

 

[Battery Guy]

One of these days, I'll run some discharge tests on the AA's to see how they hold up, and compare to his "Capable of 15-25 amps with no problems" claim.

Hey Lux

I have been away from CPF and the flashlight hobby scene for the last several months due to personal and work responsibilities. It is great to hear that CBP has replaced the old Elite 1700s. How long have the 2000s been available? I just ordered 20 for testing, and will post the results in my AA NiMH performance test thread.

Cheers,
BG

 

[LuxLuthor]

Hey Lux

I have been away from CPF and the flashlight hobby scene for the last several months due to personal and work responsibilities. It is great to hear that CBP has replaced the old Elite 1700s. How long have the 2000s been available? I just ordered 20 for testing, and will post the results in my AA NiMH performance test thread.

Cheers,
BG

Hi buddy! Only been available for about 2 months. Look forward to your tests.

 

[Battery Guy]

Hi buddy! Only been available for about 2 months. Look forward to your tests.

I am really looking forward to testing these cells. It has been a year since the disaster that was the Effect of Charge Rate on Elite 1700 High Rate Discharge thread, which initiated the search for new high rate NiMH cells.

Brings back memories re-reading that thread!

 

[Databyter]

I couldn't get on the site yesterday for some reason.

At any rate I just wanted to report that after testing my light again for the first time, I feel no need for an amp test and am not concerned about the AW switch (visually it looked good).

When I turned the light on (first click is 30%) I just had to SMILE.

I remember now why I loved this light so much.

I still wish I'd been able to figure out how to get a 13 cell solution, but this still makes me smile, even on low.

When I cranked it up to 100%, well,

I don't use my light to start fires, but it easily will burn anything that gets too close.

I'll likely never sell a light I've made again.

I still really want the 13 cell variety since the wow factor of a full recent charge with 12 can be compared to a 13 cell solution after resting.