Best AA Bikelight?

noisebeam

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Joined
Jan 11, 2010
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103
Thanks for the thoughts. Some brand/model lingo I need to decipher when I have time.

Given that I find 180 lumens from the L2D adequate at my normal travel speeds...

I wanted the LD20 to work, but found it make a narrower spot up on the road ahead compared to the L2D. I much preferred the L2D. So I sent the LD20 back.

I can still get a L2D and probably will, but first wanted to know if there were better options that did not sacrifice run time at 180+ lumens. In other words fine if the light has a 250 lumen option as long as it also has a 180 one as well and is not as spotty as the LD20.

I want to stick with AA and self contained options.
 

larcal

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Mar 31, 2010
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101
Well it's been 2 years and I've run both the Ld20 and the new ld22. At least in dark rural areas where the effect of light is magnified I am totally enamored with these lights. Never tried in the big shitty. Whether fast speeds on gutted dirt roads or higher on paved (at least 20 mph), I do not out run the light in turbo and in fact even level 3 is often plenty. And I ain't exactly into privation, you know, but into having fun. The ability to use eneloops is a big plus if you don't use light everyday, and you can carry the Fenix headstrap for any emergency repairs. Easy to change batteries in total dark. The Ld22 is way better then the 20 though, because of it's side switch which means you don't have to push on end cap switch to change modes. It is nigh impossible to do this accurately on a moving/rockin bike because it is just a 1/2 push, too subtle. The side switch on LD 22 is a full push for activation, so you will change modes more often and save on batteries. Also, don't use twofish lockblock bar mount. It will revolve when you push on end cap switch, which even on the 22 you have to do to turn on/off
 
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ianfield

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Jan 7, 2012
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97
Right, the question is in the title.. I'm looking for a new light for the front bars on my mountain bike, my only specs are that it has to be AA powered, under or around £60/$100. (although less $ if it can't be bought in the UK and i will have to pay postage and import duty :thumbsdow)
Also, i'm using a twofish lockblock as a mount and will be going off road a lot, so i'd definately want a light that won't bounce about and wobble like the TK20 im using at the moment seems to..
Everyone on this forum seems to know their stuff about flashlights, so any and all opinions and ideas are welcome. :thumbsup:


If you have a flashlight to hanlebar clamp; Tesco do a very good 2xAA Cree, being 2xAA - could only have a boost converter, as opposed to 3 cell units that either waste energy in a current limit resistor or shorten LED life by relying on the cells internal resistance.

They also do a larger light which I presume to be a 2x C.

The 2x AA is just under a tenner - sometimes they special offer at half price, but I've only ever seen the ticket announcing that hung on an empty shelf!
 

mallakoff

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Mar 14, 2012
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63
Location
Australia
For my bike Ive been using a Jetbeam BA20 - 2x AA

High of 270 Lumens for 90mins runtime ( slowly ramps down) then stepdown to Low of 30 lumens.

I use Tenergy Premium 2500mah AA

It has pretty high lumen output for a 2x AA light, not to expensive bout $35 - 45
 
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ianfield

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Jan 7, 2012
Messages
97
For my bike Ive been using a Jetbeam BA20 - 2x AA

High of 270 Lumens for 90mins runtime ( slowly ramps down) then stepdown to Low of 30 lumens.

I use Tenergy Premium 2500mah AA

It has pretty high lumen output for a 2x AA light, not to expensive bout $35 - 45


Do those cells get exposed to freezing temperatures when used outdoors?

There were always warnings about low temperatures on the NiCd cells - so far, I've been assuming the same applies to NiMh.
 

vickers214

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Dec 18, 2009
Messages
272
Location
England
I'm using a eagletac p100a2 s2 and when it is very cold the high does seem a little dimmer, but it might just be my frozen eyeballs
 

B0wz3r

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Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
1,753
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
I use a Romisen RC-29 II in a lock-block on my handlebars, focused to maximum spread, and pointed at the ground about 10' - 12' or so in front of my front wheel. I have my old Jet-III Pro ST mounted to the top of my helmet, also with a lock-block. It's pretty throwy, and I have it angled so it gives me a good 150' of distance. In really dark conditions I can raise my head just a little, and easily get 100 yds. of usable distance out of it at my flat-ground cruising speed of about 15 mph. I also have my H502d mounted to the front of my helmet under my visor. I use it intermittently for on bike for viewing my cycle-computer and the conditions directly beneath me, but mostly as an off-bike light when I need one. My H51Fr is mounted to my seatpost with a bike-block for my tail-light. This set up works very well for me. I've had very few problems with this set-up; on max my Jet-III is still bright enough to make even obstinate or dangerously unobservant drivers back down when I flash them with it.
 
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