Coleman Cree XR-E headlight

[TorchBoy]

Maybe the resistor is only for low mode, and maybe an ordinary old metal film resistor can handle heat better. :shrug: If the 105 lumen (with fresh batteries) figure is right it would need a bit over a third of an amp with fresh batteries... which would need a resistor. Maybe there's another one hidden somewhere that's common to both modes.

 

[degarb]

Does anyone know if Coleman might make a xr-c version of this headlamp?

I got the Coleman xr-c 3 AA $20 flashlight. The throw is awesome. The xr-c is better at throw than the xr-e by nature, plus they use a smooth reflector.

The advantage of this format is it is far brighter, where the eye focuses--far brighter, dudes. And, even at under 100 milliamps with xr-c, the hotspot will rival this xr-e headlamp on high. Thus, 10 hour runtime with a bright hotspot on 800 milliamp hour 3 AAA.

I know this because, I hacked off the head and made a 4 AA wristlight, controlled with a 25ohm 3 watt variable resistor (500 milliamp is rate max for the xr-c.) sold at Radio Shack. The head of the xr-c, though, is too bulky to make into a headlamp.

 

[chris_m]

Does anyone know if Coleman might make a xr-c version of this headlamp?

I got the Coleman xr-c 3 AA $20 flashlight. The throw is awesome. The xr-c is better at throw than the xr-e by nature, plus they use a smooth reflector.

That's not down to the XR-C LED - that throws no better than an XR-E, given it is pretty much just a lower output version of that. What you'd want is an XP-E LED for a super thrower. In reality I find I get plenty of throw from my homemade XR-E headlamp, I wouldn't want more at the expense of the flood - with a headlamp you generally want to see where your feet are.

 

[degarb]

That's not down to the XR-C LED - that throws no better than an XR-E, given it is pretty much just a lower output version of that. What you'd want is an XP-E LED for a super thrower. In reality I find I get plenty of throw from my homemade XR-E headlamp, I wouldn't want more at the expense of the flood - with a headlamp you generally want to see where your feet are.

I realize the xr-e is nearly 30 lumens better per watt, in theory at least. But the xr-c coleman dogs the xr-e, as in, "is this xr-e even on?"

Now, I am not using headlamps for camping. And when walking outside I prefer an adjustable wristlight. I am using them as tasklights. Usually for most tasks, it is always possible and practical to plug in at least one worklight. So flood isn't important, only the spot. And in terms of spot/detail illumination, the xr-c blows away the xr-e both raw brightness at eye focus radius and efficiency watt/per lux factor, utterly shames it. I also conclude the corona as good or better than any 2005 light, which I rarely need anyway. This mean better detail, spotting things from afar, better dust/textural spotting, able to straff wall at 15 degrees for 15 foot long relief, and ability to see detail better at 80 milliamps v. xr-e 340 milliamps.

Now, not sure if since xr-c has smaller die, so throwing more narrow angle, thus higher lux, can be matched by raw lumen output of xr-e plus narrow smooth reflector. Someone would need to build both and compare.

 

[likhary]

I took one. The other one looked very off center, but was probably just a matter of taking it apart and putting it back together. They also had the Coleman max 3aaa handheld that claimed 135 lumens.

 

[Dogmeat]

On the lumen claim: It sould be noted that on the package for the headlamp is the information-

"This is the rated lumen output from the light source as measured from the manufacturer, actual lumen output may vary. These numbers are only applicable to the LED when junction temperature is measured at 25 degrees C. It does not include the thermal loss, driver loss and secondary optics loss that will occur in the system."

Yeah, lost in the fine print, but it does seem Colemsn doesn't actually say you'll get 105 lumens in real use.

I still have to say, for what it costs, I like the light.

 

[beetleguise]

Cree

Coleman has a 20 dollar coleman at walmart with a cree that is brighter than a stinger. A guy I work with showed up with one last night, it is just as bright as my modded one, but 1/4th the cost.:thumbsup:

 

[DM51]

Re: Cree

You need to give more information. Please also improve the very undescriptive thread title.

 

[Aircraft800]

I found a good thread on this one here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/201822&highlight=Coleman
Looks nice, maybe not as rugged as I need, but at $20,worth a try.

 

[beetleguise]

Re: Cree

MY apologies for not posting correctly. Sorry, but I have no other information for you. I only know that it is a Cree, it is made by Coleman,it can be purchased at walmart for $20.00, is probably a Q5 minimum since it it as bright as mine, and it is brighter than a stinger handheld flashlight. Just wanted to inform headlamp enthusiasts of a super bright cheap product.
Again, a thousand apologies.

 

[DM51]

Re: Coleman Cree headlamp

It sounds like this one. Anyone know if it is the same?

 

[NeonLights]

Re: Coleman Cree headlamp

Sounds like the one I picked up last night at WalMart for $25. Cree headlamp made/distributed by Coleman with high and low for the Cree and two red LED's as well. For the price I was blown away, I have at least 6 or 8 other headlamps around here, but all are older Nichia or Nichia/incan lights with much lower output.

 

[DM51]

Re: Coleman Cree headlamp

I'm merging the 2 threads.

 

[Garand]

I was very impressed with the output of this light but when I put a set of rechargeable batteries I was amazed at the difference. It was like a totally different light.

The brightness seemed to almost double with a set of cheap ray o vac rechargeables.

 

[car54]

I bought this headlamp a few weeks ago and have to say it is by far my favorite. I work all night outside fixing security cameras and coutner terrorist truck barriers. I buy cheap flashlights because I tend to lose them or break them. I used a Brinkmann 3w LED from target before I found this coleman, and I like the coleman much better.

Ive considered adding a 2AA battery pack and driver setup on the back of the strap and wiring it into the headlamp to bypass the 3xAAA. I want to be able to use high capacity nimh rechargables and stop buying AAA's.

 

[BlackDecker]

I bought this headlamp a few weeks ago and have to say it is by far my favorite. I work all night outside fixing security cameras and coutner terrorist truck barriers. I buy cheap flashlights because I tend to lose them or break them. I used a Brinkmann 3w LED from target before I found this coleman, and I like the coleman much better.

Ive considered adding a 2AA battery pack and driver setup on the back of the strap and wiring it into the headlamp to bypass the 3xAAA. I want to be able to use high capacity nimh rechargables and stop buying AAA's.

Why not buy high capacity nimh AAA rechargeables? The rayovac and eneloops AAA's perform quite well.

 

[degarb]

Why not buy high capacity nimh AAA rechargeables? The rayovac and eneloops AAA's perform quite well.

Because 3 AAA only have 2.4 wtt hour capacity. That is 2.4 hour, with half at half brightness. If you use a headlamp for work, you need 7 to 12 hours typically. This means you have option to 3 AA it, to optimize brightness over work period, and reduce worker breaks that will be blamed on battery changes. (this could add up in a year.) Or just live with 3 AAA format, swap batt sets every 2 hours, and buy a 15 minute charger and overnight charger to match each worker.

A 3 AAA format is easily changeable to 3 AA. I recommend 2 AA in back of head and one in front. I would add a center strap of wide elastic. (tools: soldering, wire, 2 AA holder, 1 AA holder, hotglue, Amazing goop glue optional, elastic or velcro) I would be interested as to controller you might pick and why. I just put inline a 25 ohm 3 watt rheostat from the Shack at $4 ish, which allows me to stretch batteries to at least 11 hours. I will start using controllers when they become %100 efficient, have a built in knob adjustment, and can handle anything from 4 cells to very weak 3 cells with none of this "sorry pack dead though you could get 2 hours more if on direct drive". Also, I must be made aware of the existence and source of such a controller.

 

[BlackDecker]

I picked up the Coleman today at Wal-Mart - still $24.88. The battery case is a VERY tight fit for my Energizer NiMh batteries. It would be a bit difficult to do a battery swap in a dark area just by feel. The build quality is ok, nothing spectacular. I do like the beam pattern of the main LED. The Wal-Mart I visited had at least 2 dozen of them on a lower section of the flashlight section, so I was able to pick and choose to find one with the LED centered behind the reflector.

The switch is very stiff as mentioned by someone in a previous post.

I own a Zebralight, but wanted a second headlamp with a bit less spill and more throw. The Coleman does seem to fit the need.

 

[PCC]

I'm a first-time poster here so please go easy on me

I bought one of these lights to use while cycling, attached to my helmet. I plan on modifying it with an external battery pack and waterproofing it, too. The plan is to use four rechargeable AA cells in an external battery holder and running a cable to the light. Four NiMH AA cells would produce about 4.8 volts while three AAA alkaline cells would produce about 4.5 so I probably won't burn this thing out. I have a second one on its way to use around the house.

It works really well as a helmet-mounted light as it's much closer to my line of sight compared to the handlebar mounted NiteRider Minewt USB that I'm using in addition to this light, even though the light output of the USB puts this light to shame. That's because I get a bright spot in front of me that follows my head. I can turn my head and point the beam at obstacles, at inattentive drivers, at things lurking in the shadows, etc. I just need it to last longer than four commutes before needing new batteries.

 

[PCC]

I used this lamp for the first time the other day to ride home. It has a nice, tight hot spot but the color is yellow compared to my NiteRider Minewt-USB. With fresh batteries the Coleman lamp is slightly less bright compared to the USB. The problem is that the light dims quickly as the small batteries wear down. By the time I got home, after about 45 minutes of continuous use the spot wasn't very bright anymore.

I bought some 2400 MAH NiMH batteries and a 4-cell battery holder at Radio Shack. I drilled a hole in the battery door of the Coleman lamp and soldered the battery holder's power leads to the battery contacts on the inside of the lamp. I'll have to see how long this setup lasts before the LED dims. I tried running this setup for 15 minutes and the lamp stayed cool on the outside.

As a side note, the headlamp worked with 6 volts (4 AA alkalines) but the head got warm to the touch after five minutes of use. I shut it down at that point and let it cool off. I won't be doing that again. This lamp has almost no heatsink so there just wasn't any way to get rid of the excess heat that the greater voltage created. The brightness did improve, though. I used my camera as a light meter to determine relative brightness of this light compared to my USB (rated at 110 lumens). The camera was set to Aperture Preferred, spot metering, f4.5, ISO 800, and it was set up on a tripod pointing at the side of a counter that was not lit with direct light. The USB returned 1/250 sec. The Coleman at 4.8 volts returned 1/125 sec. The Coleman at 6 volts returned 1/250 sec.