Sold/Expired Custom Carbon Fiber Surefire P60 1x18650/18350 Bodies HAIII Natural/Black Al

[jtrucktools34]

Hey All!

I just want to confirm that the Oveready tripple's do not work with either of my tubes (18350 or 18650). The bore in the tube is too deep and the tripple's don't have a negative spring for good contact. I had to modify my tube with a copper shim to make negative contact and it works fine now. I am sure Davide's design works fine with standard P60's but...

Jtruck.

 

[Silgt]

Wanted to write a more comprehensive reply/review/impression of these tubes but I'm not bothered now...

...sad to say these tubes will not work with any drop ins that I have and I have over 40 of them...Malkoff, Oveready, EDC+/IS, Mac's Copper, Kerberos, Nailbender, Vinh, WrightLight etc...NOT A SINGLE ONE WORKS!!!

On top of this, my Panasonic 3100mAh won't fit so there's no chance in hell any 3400mAh will fit without a hammer either. These are the latest cells so why not make a tube to fit these? frankly that's no biggie but why won't any of my dropins work? Was it tested before these were release? I've tried all kind of workarounds but it just won't work reliably. Anyone can offer me any assistance? I've bought 6 tubes of all sizes but after the first three don't work, I just threw the rest into my parts drawer and call it a day!

Apologies in advance for my tone here but I was so looking forward to these after such a long wait, and there are also too much free play with the carbon fiber tube for my liking. I'm sorry but I'm just so very dissapointed. Pics to follow...

Edit (01): I don't see how Gorilla Glue is able to fill this gap oo: and the carbon fiber outer tube will just spin around.

The body have a slightly different machining to the rest and unfortunately the CF tube was cut way too short!

Edit (02): tried copper wrap, adding an outer spring to the drop in (and that will leave a big gap between the body tube and the bezel) etc and still can't get it to work. I have enough frustrations for a day (including getting a $170 UV drop in sent to me without a contact spring) so calling it a day now. Hoping for some suggestions or help from more experienced fellow members here or these will ended up as an expensive display pieces :mecry:

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2

 

[BIGLOU]

I was not able to get one of these but would like to see photos. Does this bore have the "shoulders" from preventing the battery from going though head end of light. The shoulders also work as a contact. This happened to my first 6P bore, I didnt leave the shoulders and had contact issues that were later resolved with a small aluminum circular disc I fabricated to sandwich between drop-in and body. How much metal is left on the body will it be possible to re-bore them to make 3100 and 3400 18650s fit? So the carbon fiber is loose? Should of used Gorilla Glue it works great. silgt if you happen to get rid of any of your bodies I would be interested in take a 18650 BK or HA off your hands which I will most likely get bored again.

 

[Darksides]

I have a few of these CF tubes that i have yet to receive. If someone can post pics of the tail section, head, and portion that seats the drop-in? perhaps measurements? Maybe a solution or workaround can be put into play. For now its pause

 

[bRIBEGuy]

I will try to take some photos tonight and have them posted asap.

Head side of host: The machined recess is too deep for an Oveready tripple to make negative contact. A cheapo solarforce drop in with a negative contact spring lights up just fine. The Oveready tripple CAN be made to light up, but it requires a small shim of aluminum foil to be wrapped around the lower 2mm or so of the drop in. There is not really enough of a machined ledge to allow for any sort of nice "washer" to sit in the host for contact instead. Sort of a shame to have to use pop can bits and aliminum foil in a high end custom host.

Battery fitment: XTAR 3100 (panasonic) 18650's don't really fit. You can force it into the 18650 tube, but you need to pull off the head and tail in order to press out the cell for replacement. The 3400mah cells I have do not even kinda fit.

Tail cap: Anodized threads and a bare contact patch on the bottom is great if you want the ability to have a 1/4 turn lock out. BUT.......and for me this is a big but.......it doesn't allow the option to easily use a lanyard ring, or pocket clip. The gap between the tailcap (Z41 HA) and host is too wide to clamp the ring or clip securly, but too thin to be able to add a thin o-ring and still make electrical contact. Using a deeper tailcap (solarforce) solves this issue, but won't allow electrical contact as the tailcap can't bottom out with the lanyard ring/clip in place.

Fun fun fun.......

 

[autogiro]

This thread has me with mixed feelings now.

I have seen some of the posts made by those of you who have the hosts, albeit not in operating condition, in hand and contemplating fixes.

I would be up to trying out some potential fixes on the hosts I ordered but they appear to NOT be on the shipped list, even though I was the first to order a 2x18500 of either color.

Davide hasn't been on CPF since the 13th and he hasn't returned either of the TWO PMs I sent asking for a heads up and he has not returned the ONE e-mail I have sent him inquiring if there was an ordering/building snafu at his end. I feel I'm being restrained in attempting to get him to advise me on the situation, I may be wrong but what can I do?

Don't get me wrong I'm not mad, just disappointed in how this pre-order has been working out, especially considering the reputation Davide has in the forums.
Auto

ADDED 03-18-13
I received a reply from the OP and the delay was explained to my satisfaction.
There was a small detail that was the cause of the miscommunication.
The OP was cordial and courteous in his reply.
I'm looking forward to having my order in hand within a week or two.
Thank you Davide.
Auto

 

[OneBigDay]

My experience with my 18350 pictured above for whatever it's worth...

When I first put mine together. Ronac Standoff tailcap, Smoothie bezel, EDC triple XP-G dropin. No light. Trying to decide if it is the bezel or tailcap that was the problem, I experimented with both an outer spring on the dropin, or foil wrap. With either foil or an outer spring I could get the dropin to light up when making direct contact between the bottom of my cell and bottom of host with foil or a wire or whatever. I could change modes by breaking contact, etc...

Tried several tailcaps with a Xeno lanyard ring attachment on the body and could not get light.

Took off the lanyard ring and then I was getting a working light in most cases.

• JasonH Fat Tailcap w McClicky (works)
• Ronac Standoff Tailcap w McClicky (works)
• Solarforce standard tailcap (does not work). Screws down tight and looks good but no light.
• FiveMega Penta tailcap with grip ring and McClicky (works)
• Oveready surefire z41 tailcap with McClicky (works)

I don't have any precision measuring tools but when I put this next to my Nite FM 18350 body (which is exactly the same shape/size), there appears to be slightly more threading on the tail end of the Nite host. I'm talking about maybe 1 mm, but might be enough to make a contact difference in some cases.

 

[Darksides]

Appears the length of the tail threads dont reach out 15mm and make contact.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

So the body is not reaching far enough into the tailcap to make contact with the tailcap switch plate? I've had that problem with some tailcaps, and have used a circular disk (washer) in the tailcap to correct the issue.

Bill

 

[Silgt]

My temporary solution...at least now I'm able to get most of the drop ins to work. Pretty unfortunate having to do this in an expensive and beautiful host but well... :shrug:

 

[bRIBEGuy]

My temporary solution...at least now I'm able to get most of the drop ins to work. Pretty unfortunate having to do this in an expensive and beautiful host but well... :shrug:

Yup, that's pretty much what I had to do as well.

So the body is not reaching far enough into the tailcap to make contact with the tailcap switch plate? I've had that problem with some tailcaps, and have used a circular disk (washer) in the tailcap to correct the issue.

I was thinking of trying this same approach, but haven't had a chance to actually try and find a washer that will just "drop in" yet.

Appears the length of the tail threads dont reach out 15mm and make contact. This is spec for your basic surefire host ( tail to O-ring). Using pics as reference appears the tail section on these tubes are anodized ? Correct me if im wrong? So its lock out and contact or no current to power up your drop-in.

Removing the ano from the tubes tail end threads will at the very least allow you to use tailcaps with bare metal threading and those that require lock-out if the tube length permits. If you look inside the tail cap of a typical surefire twisty the threads are covered and the contact ring is down in the bottom of the cap. And if you take a look at most Surefire tubes and compare? Exposed metal threads and i bet 1 mm longer..

Yes, the threads themselves on the carbon hosts are anodized, only the very bottom of the tube is bare. I toyed with the idea of stripping the annodizing off so it'd work with a Solarforce tailcap (bare threads in them), but the ones I have are all notably bigger then the HA ano'd Z41's I have. The Z41's have ano'd threads ars well though. And really, do I want to be stripping anodizing off such a beautiful host body? No, not really.

I think the best bet is:

1. Foil your drop in/host to allow your drop in to work.
2. Buy some lower mah skinny cells.
3. Shim your tailcap.

DOing that will allow you to have a VERY nice LOOKING fuctional light. It'll just be a PITA to take apart for mods, swaps, battery changes, etc, as there will be so many extra "band-aids" inside.

 

[donn_]

I was thinking of trying this same approach, but haven't had a chance to actually try and find a washer that will just "drop in" yet.

I've had to do this on several lights, and have accumulated a small baggie of short lengths of stripped solid copper wire in various gauges. Bend it around your finger so it's a little larger than the ID of the tail cap, and it will stay in place nicely. Single coils of spring also work well.

 

[autogiro]

I've used oil pan crush washers (BMW motorcycle K series) with great success on a couple of body / tail cap issues. I have a couple ready to use as soon as my hosts arrive.
They come in many sizes and thicknesses and in aluminum and copper. (20mm OD 14mm or 16mm ID 1mm thick)
Your local auto parts stores may be able to help too.
Auto

I just looked and see that the same shim may just work for the light module contact problem too. I'll advise at a later date.
A

I've had to do this on several lights, and have accumulated a small baggie of short lengths of stripped solid copper wire in various gauges. Bend it around your finger so it's a little larger than the ID of the tail cap, and it will stay in place nicely. Single coils of spring also work well.

 

[Delghi]

Hi Davide,

Received the package last week, awesome work! Only 1 problem. You sent me an 18350 body, I ordered two (2) 18650 bodies. Let me know how much for the 18350 and I will send paypal for it. I do still want the 18650 in black, you already sent the HA.

Thanks!

Cheers!

I'm sorry, in a previous post I suggested everyone to check the order list I made on first page to be sure your ordered configration was correct as I had hard time to keep track of a correct list with many orders updates/changes and many paypal received without shipping or cpf names. Anyway not a big problem sure I'll help you, I'm sending you pm later with details.

Still haven't been able to resolve this issue with mine. Seems like there is no negative contact at the bottom of the drop in, but the tolerances are still to tight to just try and wrap/shim it with thin aluminum can/tape.

On top of that, the 3100mah 18650's I have don't fit into the 18650 or 2x18650 tubes I ordered. Looks like the tubes aren't quite bored big enough. Looks like I'll be shopping for some smaller capacity skinnier cells.....which kinda sucks.

So as it sits, I have three BEAUTIFUL carbon tubes mocked up as lights, and not a single one is functional.

Before shpping I checked them with standard incandescent P60 drop in and my collection of Nailbender drop-in all using standard SF heads and tailcaps. (I also checked with standard size 18650 AW2900 mAh but I'm not sure if bigger 18650 can fit)
Often each custom drop-in could be different but now I guess also some body I made can be different each other.

I think the deanodization process could be the problem with contact. Groove and deep could slightly vary being made my manual lathe after the anodization and if not consistent could cause such contact problems.
I guess the the majority of people who received them do not have any problem with their contact, sure I'll try to solve or if not possible refund any person who is experiencing this problems.

Wanted to write a more comprehensive reply/review/impression of these tubes but I'm not bothered now...

...sad to say these tubes will not work with any drop ins that I have and I have over 40 of them...Malkoff, Oveready, EDC+/IS, Mac's Copper, Kerberos, Nailbender, Vinh, WrightLight etc...NOT A SINGLE ONE WORKS!!!

On top of this, my Panasonic 3100mAh won't fit so there's no chance in hell any 3400mAh will fit without a hammer either. These are the latest cells so why not make a tube to fit these? frankly that's no biggie but why won't any of my dropins work? Was it tested before these were release? I've tried all kind of workarounds but it just won't work reliably. Anyone can offer me any assistance? I've bought 6 tubes of all sizes but after the first three don't work, I just threw the rest into my parts drawer and call it a day!

Apologies in advance for my tone here but I was so looking forward to these after such a long wait, and there are also too much free play with the carbon fiber tube for my liking. I'm sorry but I'm just so very dissapointed. Pics to follow...

Edit (01): I don't see how Gorilla Glue is able to fill this gap oo: and the carbon fiber outer tube will just spin around.

The body have a slightly different machining to the rest and unfortunately the CF tube was cut way too short!


Edit (02): tried copper wrap, adding an outer spring to the drop in (and that will leave a big gap between the body tube and the bezel) etc and still can't get it to work. I have enough frustrations for a day (including getting a $170 UV drop in sent to me without a contact spring) so calling it a day now. Hoping for some suggestions or help from more experienced fellow members here or these will ended up as an expensive display pieces :mecry:

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk 2

In your pic carbon fiber seems wrong size and should been attached with the same epoxy that keeps the carbon texture together, pretty impossible to remove. That's a body that should not have been shipped. Sure you will get a refund or replacement.

Bore diameter was made for 2900 mAH AW or any IMR, some bigger batteries over standard 18650 diamenter could not fit and the host can't be bored anymore anyway. The diameter of the tailcap o-ring will make the body too weak if the bore get increased.

I understand you I'm sorry sometime when wokring issues can happen, again this should be only on a small number of bodies some but sure I support my work and will do all I can.

Please if everyone has problem with contacts please pm or email me with detailed problem and I'll see if I can get to a solution or return for a full refund.

Davide

 

[Delghi]

I checked again all my CF bodies and they all work with my springed Nailbender drop-in collection and my SF tailcaps without any shim.

With most drop-in like standard Surefire or Nailbender you can use spring or cut a single coil spring (even on Malkfoff) as suggested by Donn above and Nailbender instruction drop-in to work perfectly.

If your body do not work with a springed/partially springed drop-in or a SF tailcap , please let me know by pm/email.

Unfortunatley they were not thought for Oveready drop-ins which are most wrapped, I don't have any to check but they will probably need a thin shim as suggested.

I've done my best with them, I am not able to make anymore bodies so if you are not happy with them you can let me know, send back and I will give you full refund including your shipping back.

Davide

 

[H-nu]

Thanks for the prompt reply Davide. The top notch support from a top notch custom lightsmith! Cheers!

 

[Darksides]

Thanks for solution you provided. I have no doubt the finished product will perfect.

 

[BIGLOU]

Delghi I missed this run. Interested in buying a flawed 18650 HA or BK body at a discount of course. Thanks.

 

[bRIBEGuy]

Tinker tinker tinker......

Tinker tinker tinker................

Played with the lights a little more the other day.

Started by deciding I was going to resolve my tailcap issue, of not being able to use/securely clamp a clip or lanyard ring.

Pulled off the HA Z41 tailcap I was using.....

Cut a length of 12ga copper wire, and made a loop.

Fit the ring snuggly into the base of the tailcap so it can't fall out.

Adding the extra copper shim allows FULL electrical contact now, and enough of a tailcap-body gap for sandwiching a lanyard ring/tailcap snugly between two o-rings. SWEET!


So, with the head issue solved, and the tail issue solved, out came the Lego..............

Carbon fiber 18650 host: Check!
Torchlab Tripple H3 XPG2 drop in: Check!
Cryos cooling bezel: Check!
UCL lens c/w GITD o-ring: Check!
Titanium crenulated bezel ring: Check!
Z41 tailcap c/w McClicky: Check!
Titanium pocket clip: Check!

And I'm LOVING the look of this light.

 

[sledhead]

Great to hear you resolved all the obstacles! Great looking light. :thumbsup: Almost what I have planned except for hopefully a Triad tail.

Am I the only one that has not received their body yet?