Duracell Leaked in My AAA Maratac - How to Save It - Need New Casing?

Opstanak

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Title says it all. I spent 4 hours trying to remove the battery from the casing but it seams like it's welded inside. I've tried everything beside using a drill which will ruin the flashlight. I would hate to say goodbye to the flashlight because meat and potatoes of the flashlight is the head and the head is unharmed. Is there anybody that has an idea how to remove the battery or maybe someone has the lower half for this light and is looking to sell?

Thanks!
 

Yoda4561

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To dissolve alkaline battery goo properly you need to use an acid, a mild one like vinegar works, it'll likely need to soak in some for a while as it sounds like there's no gap between the battery and tube right now. If you can get the head off then do so, as the vinegar isn't going to be very nice to the electronics and reflector especially. EDIT: Alternatively, and probably your first move is to contact the battery maker/maratac, the larger battery makers will almost always replace something damaged by their batteries, and sometimes the light manuf. has a program in place to deal with that situation with less hassle for you.
 

Opstanak

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Thanks Yoda,

I've already contacted the flashlight manufacturer. Do you think I should contact Duracell as well?
 

Opstanak

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Thanks, I did! The only issue with sending the light to them is that I'm overseas and I can't imagine how much would the international shipping be.
 

NCF8710

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Hi. Sorry to hear of your problem. Actually, using a drill carefully is probably your best bet. Use a drill press and set its limit to just above the bottom of the case. Secure the flashlight bottom in a fixture to hold it centered on the drill bit. Carefully and slowly drill out the cell using an 8mm bit. You should be able to pick out the remaining casing with a needle nose pliers. Good luck.

BTW, you should only use NiMH or Energizer Ultimate Lithiums in your AA or AAA flashlights. They don't leak. I will never use alkaline cells in any important device.
 

Opstanak

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Thanks. I don't have a drill, so... But that is a good advice about batteries. I thought there wasn't a battery in the flashlight...
 

AnAppleSnail

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If you don't have a drill, you can sometimes get away with a wood screw. If warranty procedures are no good or too expensive, give that a whirl (Drive a sharp, marked-for-depth wood screw in and pull it out with sturdy pliers).
 

Opstanak

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Did it a few hours ago with no luck. It goes in but I can't pull it out. That is how much the battery metal has welded to the wall. And I do seated rows with 300 lbs as for the pulling, so it's not a matter of strength either. :) Almost broke my needlenose pliers too. Tried scraping it from the walls with sharp screwdrivers, tried hammering a big nail with no luck. One thing is for sure, This Type III Hard Anodized Aluminum is one tough cookie.
 

BarryG

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I remember a thread like this one but with an E01. The best advice i remember on it was a soak in a penetrating oil or using a kinetic bullet puller. might try putting in water and then freezing also. It might ease into small cracks and expend as it freezes and help make removal easier.



Good luck,
Barry
 

Lynx_Arc

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I would say if you have had no luck then fill it with vinegar and let it sit for a day pour out the vinegar and refill it and do that several days and hope the acid works its way down the sides of the tube. You could also try heating it up with a hairdryer perhaps the heat will help loosen things up inside. One trick that may work is to clamp something around the tube and slam the clamp itself on something very hard and hope the impact dislodges the battery out of the tube.
 

Opstanak

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That is a good advice, thanks! I'm trying out vinegar at the moment, I'll try that tomorrow.
 

Lynx_Arc

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That is a good advice, thanks! I'm trying out vinegar at the moment, I'll try that tomorrow.
the vinegar could take days or weeks to penetrate if it can even do that.. may even try a more powerful acid which could even strip the anodizing off the inside of the tube.
 

Opstanak

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OK, some new events. I realized that in my Maratac AA there's also a leak, but this time battery chewed up the metal and made a hole. Light still works but is it safe to use like that? And more stuff, like this is not enough, while trying to clean out the leaked substance I smeared a bit on my Quark MiNi 123 flashlight and it damaged the coating a bit. Can this penetrate into the flashlight? I rubbed it off but it can't be removed completely. I don't mind the white stains but I would hate to see another light go bad.
 

Lynx_Arc

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OK, some new events. I realized that in my Maratac AA there's also a leak, but this time battery chewed up the metal and made a hole. Light still works but is it safe to use like that? And more stuff, like this is not enough, while trying to clean out the leaked substance I smeared a bit on my Quark MiNi 123 flashlight and it damaged the coating a bit. Can this penetrate into the flashlight? I rubbed it off but it can't be removed completely. I don't mind the white stains but I would hate to see another light go bad.
If they still work.. use them if you leaked alkaline on them use vinegar or maybe lemon juice to clean it off and then wash off the acid when done and dry it. I would say with all the leaks you have you need to invest in a smart charger and some nimh batteries. I only use alkalines in things that are either cheap or that I keep a careful eye on in case they do start leaking I can catch them early that the damage is minimal. If I had the budget I would probably buy lithium AAA and AAs and use alkalines in only junk instead.
 

bladesmith3

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i used to think that people exagerated the amount of alkaline batteries that leak. i have personally held at least a dozen lights with stuck alkaline batteries in them in the past year. (btw almost all of these batterys had several years left before expiration date.
i tell people to only use them in lights that they want to throw away because it is going to happen sooner or later.
 

ABTOMAT

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I've never dealt with Duracell, but I had a bunch of things that Energizer AAs and AAAs leaked in, and the company send me checks for the original cost of every item. Including stuff like old digital cameras that weren't worth anything now but cost $400 originally.
 

Opstanak

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No, tried a few more times and nothing. But I'm in the process of communicating with both CountyComm and Duracell. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for asking.
 
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