Kenom
Enlightened
wow talk about thread jacking!!! this thread has totally degraded from it's original intent of showing folks good dvd's to extract diodes from.
DVD burners that rock for diodes.
- Thread starter Kenom
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Gazoo
Enlightened
Just a bit of an update. I ordered a couple of the Sony 20X DVD burners when they were on sale for $24.00 each including shipping.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118003
My first harvest of the Sony drive did not go so well. While I was removing the mylar some solder went down between the base of the positive pin where the pin insulator is and the case. This is the second time this had happened to me..I think I had too much solder on the tip of my iron. However the removal of the diode is the very easiest I have ever come across. If anyone gets this drive, simply remove the glue from the base of the diode. You will see a place on one edge of the base of the diode where you can pry it up. Just be careful not to let whatever you are prying with slip inwards as this could destroy the diode. I found once I got the diode lifted up on one side I was able to remove it with my fingers. That's how easy it is. There is no need to take the assembly apart and no need to do any cutting on the heatsink...very sweet.
Since I felt a little ambitious, I decided to harvest the diode from Sony drive number two. This was even easier since I felt I was in familiar territory. This time I removed the assembly from the drive and held it in a vice. The first item of business was removing the mylar from the back of the diode. Then I proceeded to remove the diode and once again it almost popped right out...lol. I immediately mounted it into the meredith adapter, then soldered a capacitor to it. From there it went into my meredith module with an acrylic lens, and then into my TEC.
The preliminary tests reveal it is exactly the same as he Pioneer 112D and 115D diodes. The voltage across it is the same at 2.83 volts with 350ma's of current. And the die is the longer one. So at least the diode should be as good as the ones we have been harvesting from the Pioneer drives. However the ease of harvesting this diode from the Sony makes the Sony the winner.
Being determined to beat VaThinks measurement of 400mw's, I moved the diode to my meredith module with glass lens. The glass lens outputs at least 50mw's more than an acrylic lens. Then I powered the diode with 570ma's and got a stable reading on my LPM-1 of 408.8mw's. Note I was using the ND filter on my LPM-1 and VaThink wasn't.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118003
My first harvest of the Sony drive did not go so well. While I was removing the mylar some solder went down between the base of the positive pin where the pin insulator is and the case. This is the second time this had happened to me..I think I had too much solder on the tip of my iron. However the removal of the diode is the very easiest I have ever come across. If anyone gets this drive, simply remove the glue from the base of the diode. You will see a place on one edge of the base of the diode where you can pry it up. Just be careful not to let whatever you are prying with slip inwards as this could destroy the diode. I found once I got the diode lifted up on one side I was able to remove it with my fingers. That's how easy it is. There is no need to take the assembly apart and no need to do any cutting on the heatsink...very sweet.
Since I felt a little ambitious, I decided to harvest the diode from Sony drive number two. This was even easier since I felt I was in familiar territory. This time I removed the assembly from the drive and held it in a vice. The first item of business was removing the mylar from the back of the diode. Then I proceeded to remove the diode and once again it almost popped right out...lol. I immediately mounted it into the meredith adapter, then soldered a capacitor to it. From there it went into my meredith module with an acrylic lens, and then into my TEC.
The preliminary tests reveal it is exactly the same as he Pioneer 112D and 115D diodes. The voltage across it is the same at 2.83 volts with 350ma's of current. And the die is the longer one. So at least the diode should be as good as the ones we have been harvesting from the Pioneer drives. However the ease of harvesting this diode from the Sony makes the Sony the winner.
Being determined to beat VaThinks measurement of 400mw's, I moved the diode to my meredith module with glass lens. The glass lens outputs at least 50mw's more than an acrylic lens. Then I powered the diode with 570ma's and got a stable reading on my LPM-1 of 408.8mw's. Note I was using the ND filter on my LPM-1 and VaThink wasn't.
Kenom
Enlightened
Sweet news Gazoo. Now we just need to get senkat to get on finding these before they have been installed into a dvd-rw for $17 and were in shape!
Gazoo
Enlightened
Not with my Sony diode...it is "hot"..lol. And it is going in my next MXDL build. :thumbsup:
I think 350mw's is really pushing it. But 300mw's might be doable. This would take appx. 400ma's running to the diode and it would require a TEC. As you can imagine these get pretty hot running with high currents.
I might do it later on but not for 2 weeks..lol. If one of these can run for 24 hours straight putting out 300mw's, I think that would be pretty awesome.
Kenom I agree, if SenKat could find these and sell them at even $30.00 it would be one heck of a good deal.
a little off topic here and i should have done a search first but......
Would you think a hard drive would produce a better laser than a DVD burner ??
I removed what looks like a closed can laser from a hard drive but i have not tested it yet (I am new to lasers).
i assume i need some glasses before i build and fire up any such device
Would you think a hard drive would produce a better laser than a DVD burner ??
I removed what looks like a closed can laser from a hard drive but i have not tested it yet (I am new to lasers).
i assume i need some glasses before i build and fire up any such device
a little off topic here and i should have done a search first but......
Would you think a hard drive would produce a better laser than a DVD burner ??
I removed what looks like a closed can laser from a hard drive but i have not tested it yet (I am new to lasers).
i assume i need some glasses before i build and fire up any such device
As far as I know hard drives use magnets not lasers. I do not believe that there are any lasers in hard drives.
Just a bit of an update. I ordered a couple of the Sony 20X DVD burners when they were on sale for $24.00 each including shipping.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118003
My first harvest of the Sony drive did not go so well. While I was removing the mylar some solder went down between the base of the positive pin where the pin insulator is and the case. This is the second time this had happened to me..I think I had too much solder on the tip of my iron. However the removal of the diode is the very easiest I have ever come across. If anyone gets this drive, simply remove the glue from the base of the diode. You will see a place on one edge of the base of the diode where you can pry it up. Just be careful not to let whatever you are prying with slip inwards as this could destroy the diode. I found once I got the diode lifted up on one side I was able to remove it with my fingers. That's how easy it is. There is no need to take the assembly apart and no need to do any cutting on the heatsink...very sweet.
Since I felt a little ambitious, I decided to harvest the diode from Sony drive number two. This was even easier since I felt I was in familiar territory. This time I removed the assembly from the drive and held it in a vice. The first item of business was removing the mylar from the back of the diode. Then I proceeded to remove the diode and once again it almost popped right out...lol. I immediately mounted it into the meredith adapter, then soldered a capacitor to it. From there it went into my meredith module with an acrylic lens, and then into my TEC.
The preliminary tests reveal it is exactly the same as he Pioneer 112D and 115D diodes. The voltage across it is the same at 2.83 volts with 350ma's of current. And the die is the longer one. So at least the diode should be as good as the ones we have been harvesting from the Pioneer drives. However the ease of harvesting this diode from the Sony makes the Sony the winner.
Being determined to beat VaThinks measurement of 400mw's, I moved the diode to my meredith module with glass lens. The glass lens outputs at least 50mw's more than an acrylic lens. Then I powered the diode with 570ma's and got a stable reading on my LPM-1 of 408.8mw's. Note I was using the ND filter on my LPM-1 and VaThink wasn't.
Gazoo,
What were the markings on the 112D and the sony diodes?
MatajumotorS
Enlightened
It uses wery small coils for reading and writing.
It should be obvious to the most casual observer that it will not fall out...if it is properly inserted.
That's what i thought as well.. Most of my LDs had some solder on them, because they were soldered into the heatsink, so when i pressed them into the module, they would never come out again..
Others also stayed in, even when they were completelly clean, but i just found one, that wobbles slightly in the AixiZ module.. So i just soldered it in, otherwise it would actually fall out by itself..
Joe Nobody
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2008
- Messages
- 2
I recently bought a 20x DVD burner for $85. It is a LiteOn 20X Super AllWrite DVD Drive. It is very easy to take apart, which was a bonus to me, but the real treat were the diodes.
Open-can Form.
Visible at 650nm.
The output power in unknown... for now. It will definitely do everything one mentions a DVD laser will do, and much faster. VaThInK got a peak of 400mW from an 18X, so a 20X should be much better. When I make another one I will take photos of the process of turning a 3-LED $10 flashlight into an expectantly >400mW laser pointer. Aluminum machining necessary for the flashlight.
Open-can Form.
Visible at 650nm.
The output power in unknown... for now. It will definitely do everything one mentions a DVD laser will do, and much faster. VaThInK got a peak of 400mW from an 18X, so a 20X should be much better. When I make another one I will take photos of the process of turning a 3-LED $10 flashlight into an expectantly >400mW laser pointer. Aluminum machining necessary for the flashlight.
I opened my second DVD burner it was a HP DVD Burner with lightscribe feature (It burns a image or text into the top of the DVD with a special HP DVD's)
Well the first DVD burner I opened was a very cheap LG unit, the diode was very powerfull see video and see
http://media.putfile.com/Laser-cutting-116-foam-fast
The HP DVD diode was not as powerfull, I had a hard time making burn a black tape, and it burned at 3.3v @ 350mAh.
Well the first DVD burner I opened was a very cheap LG unit, the diode was very powerfull see video and see
http://media.putfile.com/Laser-cutting-116-foam-fast
The HP DVD diode was not as powerfull, I had a hard time making burn a black tape, and it burned at 3.3v @ 350mAh.
Actually, it would seem the open cans are the same in 18X and 20x writers.. All the electrical characteristics match, and so does the measured output power.
But i do think LiteONs have a short chip open can. Nobody knows for sure, if there is a difference, but the general oppinion is, that long chip is better, due to a larger contact area with the pedestal, for heat flow.
400mW would be very hard to achieve in a flashlight... Those experiments were done with a LOT of heatsinking and even with Peltiers.
I am working on a similiar project. It won't be a flashlight, but a custom made enclosure, with a small 15x15 or 20x20mm peltier, with the hot side mounted on a heatsink with a tiny fan, powered by a pager motor, to make it all small and run off a low voltage.
I'm gonna use the long chip open can out of a Sony NEC AD-7191A..
But i don't think i'll get anywhere close to 400mW.. Except maybe with very short duty cycles. With passive cooling, they would have to be even shorter...
You can get 300mW out if it reliably and safelly tho, probably with a long lifetime.
Petah, você conseguiu uma solução para colimar o laser? Eu tenho dois diodos que tirei de dois gravadores de DVD LG, eles são abertos, eu não consegui um facho paralelo, no máximo eu consegui um ponto com uma linha cortando. Eu compreendo mais ou menos o inglês, porém não escrevo nada, só com ajuda do google, então estou recorrendo a você já que vi em outro post que você mora na Brasil.
Grato
Julio
Olá Julio,
bom, eu comprei uma lente colimadora do site www.dealextreme.com, custou apenas 4 dolares e alguma coisa.. já com frete incluso, mas não funciona perfeitamente tbm não, é possível focar o laser em um ponto em até uns 8 metros ( nessa distância consegui furar um balão), tbm dá de fazer um raio uniforme mas ele fica muito espesso, incapas de estourar balões ou acender fósforos, de qualquer forma se vc quizer... mas tenha sempre muito cuidado com esse brinquedinho, estava montando o meu e o disparei acidentalmente no meu olho, estou vendo uma mancha embaçada agora... cuidado!!!
se vc preferir vc pode ir até uma loja que venda equipamentos de vigilância e comprar uma lente para micro cameras, funcionam melhor que a que comprei, tenho uma dessas tbm, uma dica, peça a de "6mm" parece funcionar melhor, então arrume uma lanterne e seja criativo... outra dica, cuidado manuseando seu diodo, eles são muito sensíveis, queimam muito facil, sempre que tiver que pegá-lo tenha os pés no chão, isso mesmo, para não ocorrer uma descarga estática e queimá-lo.
boa sorte!!
I got two DVD burners that didn´t work: first is Samsung SH-S223 and the other is an Samsung SH-D163. Both had strange, Red&IR Laserdiodes which were not in a 5.6 mm housing. I could only get a power of around 10 mW outta them. they seemed like reader diodes not like burner dodes!:thinking:
