E-Cigarette Explodes

[ven]

thanks ven, that makes things a bit more understandable.

No probs it can be a mine field at 1st,so many mods,mechanical,variable volt,cell size etc,so many tanks/drippers(drip fluid in)/coils,single,twin coils,quad coil set ups. Then ohms,higher the ohm|(resistance) requires higher V or W . Then sub ohm benefits of lowering nic levels ,better hit and more flavour. Then mixing flavours,PG for throat/ hit flavour,VG- vape clouds,smoother. Depending on mix ratios 50/50 or 70/30 etc will depend on how it vapes/wicks(fluid to wick in coil). Then making your own coils,depending on amount of coils in build,depends on ohms,then different designs of coils,different cottons,japanese..............i could go on and on...........oh hang on i am
:laughing:
Luckily there are on line calculators to work it out,just like ohms law so you know what amps or watts your going to be roughly using.

Devices (to name one) the vaporshark rDNA40 tells you the ohm/V/W on display like.......


When i hit the power,the V reading then show X.XXv for example.............handy to know for vapers

It does tie in with the kind of interests you get with flashlights................ok the display is not many lm :laughing: but cells,chargers and ...............well lots of devices and tanks,before you know it your hooked like a hobby/interest too. Some crazy custom box mods,even some ti ones,but at the equivalent of $1000 i may pass

 

[BudK]

This seems to happen when people stack batteries in tube mods. It works ok for a little while and then explodes.
There was an incident a while back where a guy used Radi0 shack cr123's in series in a Puresmoker mod & injured himself and his spouse. The batteries saw maybe 2 ohms resistance, heated up & pow!
It is speculated that the Puresmoker co. went out of the mod making business as a result.

 

[Dr. Mario]

Not as surprising to me, because as I found out, unfortunately not every e-cigs have ACTUAL battery protection (many eGo clones have NONE because they figured the circuit breaker circuitry would ruin the smokers' experience - WRONG. A battery without any protection is disasterous.) In fact, I have torn a few apart. Some e-cigs have rather poor quality control, being all of rather thin wires with insulation which melts easily, and most small e-cigs (shaped like regular cigarettes) use microcontroller for "limited" battery protection (six pin SMD TO package if you know where to look for). Many eGo e-cigarettes use Lithium : Cobalt Oxide polymer battery (which looks like a silver sausage with two wires stuck in each ends), and I wonder how much amps will they withstand before going out with a spectacular bang.

All in all, I quit smoking a few months ago, and I still have the tank vaper, still considering if I should just discard the whole thing.

 

[G. Scott H.]

Not as surprising to me, because as I found out, unfortunately not every e-cigs have ACTUAL battery protection...

That's why I've been such a fan of Joyetech's eGo T 18650 Mod and more recent eVic models. Both will shut off when the cell goes below ~3.6v or so (eVic Easy Head button also goes from white to blue at around 3.8v, giving some advanced warning). Both also offer excellent short circuit protection. I've experienced clearomizer coil shorts in both models. In each case, the button flashed 3 times and then refused to fire. Also in each case, I discovered a tiny stray piece of wire in the coil of my Vivi Nova clearomizer that was shorting the coil against the center shaft of the unit. Needless to say, I now inspect each new coil before use. I can imagine, though, that things could have been ugly in those two instances, had I been using a cheaper, unprotected, and unregulated mod.

 

[LightWalker]

Yes that is what is worrying,same applies for flashlights too.

Some of the sub omh guys are using 150-250W units,some with 3x18650 cells............

I sub ohm,i use 0.5 at around 20-30w so maybe 9amps ,for this i use


Any of the above,i also replace them regardless of condition annually ........

Some use home made 0.1ohm and far higher Amps.........Its certainly not something to try if uneducated ,thats for sure.

Not saying of course this has happened with this story,we will probably never know,just in general.

Yes some still have fire charger for sale!!! no doubt some will have fire cells too....

Seems like it would be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing and use inappropriate batteries or use the batteries incorrectly. Those are some very high amp batteries, would they make much difference in a 2 or 3 amp flashlight?

 

[ven]

They would be fine in a 2a or 3a flashlight,although you would loose out on run time as so far IMR or INR have lower mah(soon some 3500mah may be available at 10a iirc)

But happy medium like pany BDs at 3200mah and 10a rating is sufficient for most lights of higher draw........

Difference,would not of thought so as regulated,if the light was fussy regarding cell length then IMR offer a good alternative being shorter than PCB.

The debate could go on with flashlights,ICR imo are fine for sub single cell 4A lights,over i prefer IMR . Most my modded lights have IMR or INR now regardless of Amp draw.

Depending on the light and use would determine my cell choice (3400mah for edc as an example for run times).

 

[LightWalker]

I think the pany BDs at 3200mah and 10 amps would be a good battery for my single cell 2 amp flashlight if they will fit.

 

[ven]

I think the pany BDs at 3200mah and 10 amps would be a good battery for my single cell 2 amp flashlight if they will fit.

Hi there,what light is it?
If it takes protected then it will,only caution is if it requires button or flat top(but you know that)

Linky before taking the plunge,thanks to sir gopajti
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?397357-LG-Chem-INR18650-MJ1-3500mAh-(10A)

 

[LightWalker]

Hi there,what light is it?
If it takes protected then it will,only caution is if it requires button or flat top(but you know that)

Linky before taking the plunge,thanks to sir gopajti
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?397357-LG-Chem-INR18650-MJ1-3500mAh-(10A)

It's the Shiningbeam Blaze X, I am using an unprotected Panasonic in it now, it has springs at both ends.
Thank you for the link.

 

[ven]

Welcome
Right,i know some of those type lights(i have some) can be cell fussy,protected pany are too long in some. The IMR or INR(the samsung 25r are excellent value but 2500mah) would be a good option. BDs for the mah,cell length ideal,springs both ends then flat tops fine and being either IMR or hybrid=more stable chemistry. There are pros/cons of both,i am sure most IMR have 300 cycle life,but in real world terms its still years of use and by then you will probably want a later version. Not sure brightness wise,depends on driver,certainly wont be any less bright. I would put a $ on an increase in lumens,just may not be able to tell by eye.........

The unprotected pany cells are still one of the best cells imo,i have many and always been excellent,even when used under high demand in the tk75vn at 4.5A per cell.(had protected in too)
Recently i swapped them for 4xLG IMR cells,and yes.............i could tell no difference by eye. I knew i would not anyway tbh but its easier on the carrier springs(very tight the pany B protected for example!)

 

[Dr. Mario]

I would agree with you guys on battery selections, however not everyone know that the battery that rolls off an assembly line is different from the rest of batteries, concerning the separator and Anode electrode alloy used - which may be disasterous, others just as disappointing so a bit educational learning experience would certainly help.

Genuine eGo seem to be well protected, but as old adage goes, "You get what you paid for" remains true as some e-cig makers tend to cheap out on battery protection. However, since microcontroller chips now have a lot of features on-die, why not use it to check for battery voltage as well as short-circuit status (ammeter)? Nevertheless I digress a bit, it is no exception that e-cigs just leave the factory unprotected. (Japanese laws mandates that the Lithium-ion batteries to contain the protection circuitry built-in - this law was mentioned once in one of microcontroller-based BMS design datasheet from Atmel). So my recommendation is to always verify that whatever you bought isn't fake and it is indeed protected - otherwise an overcharge overnight will simply translate into BANG.

 

[NoNotAgain]

Welcome
The unprotected pany cells are still one of the best cells imo,i have many and always been excellent,even when used under high demand in the tk75vn at 4.5A per cell.(had protected in too)
Recently i swapped them for 4xLG IMR cells,and yes.............i could tell no difference by eye. I knew i would not anyway tbh but its easier on the carrier springs(very tight the pany B protected for example!)

Ven, are you sure about the amperage per cell?

The reason I ask is that one one of the photo's Vinh has up on the Tk75vn KT,

he shows measuring 4.4 amps at the led. If my skills haven't gone out the window tonight, that would mean the TK75 has got a total draw of 13.2 amps split between 4 cells. That would work out to 3.3 amps per cell.

 

[ven]

Yes,sure i have read it,this is the early version
TK75vn

- 3400 LED Lumen
- At least 3000 Lumen Out The Front ( not measured so I don't know, but its much brighter than stock)
- Upgrade to around 3.8A on High per LED Factory is around 2.8A
- Low and all other modes and UI are as factory
- Thick copper sink pad allow great heat sinking
- High Quality Thermal compound
- Hot spot is defined and bright. Spill lit up the night too! Massive Lumen in a high quality package.
- This is a light up everything in front of you and beyond light. Just so much lumen you will be shock!
- Connections tweaked everywhere for better current flow
- LED surrounding cleanly finished to exposed copper square for good looks.
- Light bought brand new for the mod. Comes with everything as new.
- If you are not impressed by this light performance, I would be curious as to why.
- Dome on for large round hot spot and max lumen count (Recommended)
- Dome off for Max throw


Since then for 4400lm i recall either 4.4 or 4.5a per cell..................could be wrong,as can see above its 3.8a for 3400 led lumes,so does work out in ball park

 

[ven]

Yes your right,looked closer(head is tired now) and it is at led

 

[ven]

Still the pany cells are good for over 5a iirc from testing..............or around that amount.

 

[eric1565]

I have some Tesla model S cells that i have given to some vapers, and they run anywhere from .1 ohm to 1 ohm, and the cells have held up well. They get warm on the .1 ohm, and the guy who runs the 1 ohm says the heat is less than his VTC's, but I know they are quality cells. Not high drain cells, but quality. THey are 3100mah. I feel safe putting that to my face... at least i know where it comes from... japan, not the crap on ebay which are copies, or rejects from japan.

 

[Cordyceps]

Im also vaping quite a lot, only with mechanical mods. I like sub-ohm buils most, because you get more out of the juice like this. 0.6-0.7 ohm is my way to go, so im drawing something like 8Amps.
Im also using unprotected batteries, but only 18Amp rated AW 18490 and VTC5s 18650, single cell only.
Never had an issue with them at all.
Imho, the most important thing with mech mods is experience. Some of the atomizers can be shorted pretty easily, since the place to build is very limited. You need experience to recognize a short asap.

Actually, ive shorted my H-Atty once because the drip-tip i wanted to use had a longer than usual bottom part and touched the positive pole. It took me about a second to notice and recognize the problem. Took the tip off at once, battery out (was a VTC5). Battery was ever so slightly warm. Measured it, charged to full (Xtar VP2), measured again - no damage.

Battery protection is no cure against thermal runaway. Actually, it can cause it, if the wrapping is damaged where the protection strip is. This can happen very quickly, because thats the place with the biggest battery radius, so the friction will work there most! The battery can be shorted this way.
The only way to be sure is to use Bats with an Amp rating as high as possible for their size. Dont go for high mAh, its Amp rating and internal resistance that make safer.
100% safety is impossible though - these things store more chemical potential then a couple grams of TNT!

In flashlights, there is much less danger of a short, so single cell setups are pretty safe, as long as the Amp requirements are met.
Im going to light up my first dual cell setup soon. C2 body with p60vn50 dropin. Vinh said, it draws about 6 Amp.
So i got an extension to run it with my trusty AW IMR 18490. Got a new pair for that, still need to bore the body though.

 

[magellan]

Wow, good job on the quick reaction/response. Had similar thing happen once. I'm not a vaper but I experienced something similar in a battery carrier and immediately pulled out the cells.

 

[Cordyceps]

Yeah, i put the drip-tip in and the something felt wrong, there was unusual mechanical resistance to it. Tried to fire at once and it also sounded wrong, there i knew i shorted it.
For safety measures on selfbuilt mech mods, id go like this:
Do the math on coil resistance - specific resistance per mm of the wire, coil diameter and number of revolutions should do the trick. Real coil resistance will be a bit higher due to coil induction. I dont measure my coils by now, got my favourite builds and know how to build a certain resistance.

Use Bats with the greatest Amp rating possible for the size. Dont go below 18350 or 16500. This is not only a safety issue, but also an economical one. Even if a small bbat is able to sustain up to 10Amps, it will lower its lifetime significantly. The VTC5 18650 can deliver up to 30-40 Amps, but that will lower the lifetime to 250 cycles.

Start with atomizers, that have enough building space. An exception i can recommend is the diablo one hybrid. It has the insides of the topcap anodized. Goes with AW IMR 18490 only and is great for beginners. Was my first mech mod, still using it now. Absolutely indestructable during normal or heavy use. Liberty-Flights has a sale on them atm.

If you want to chase clouds, use a parallel dual setup, never a linear one! Same bats, paired together forever, used together, charged together in the same charger.

Also, a safety issue not related to batteries: Use premium liquid! Youre vaping because you dont want chemical reactions to happen and inhale their random products. Threfore the ingredients must be as chemically stable as possible.

My 2 cents