EagleTac Clicky Ti

[Jimbo75]

i got mine, 2013 edition, with xp-g2 R5 coolwhite, d25a.............................................................................................
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A picture is worth a thousand words.....oh right, you went with a thousand words , thanks for the update.

Any chance of a pic :wave:.

 

[shelm]

oh right, you went with a thousand words , thanks for the update.

+ 1

yes i went with the words. my cam is broken and i've spent my money in Titanium lights and am now saving for Zebra lights and none of my folks wants to lend me their cam because i never let them borrow my lights and so on :wave:

just believe my words. tints and beam representations on photos can lie. my text is detailed and tells the truth: buy the XP-G2 Clicky Ti instead of XM-L Clicky Ti.

The Eneloop AA and the XP-G2 emitter are a perfect match!

@TweakMDS
Looking forward to your shots, thanks for your efforts!!

 

[Lithium466]

Hi,

I already got a 2012 D25A Ti Clicky XM-L U2 CW...is the 2013 version (I'd like the XP-G2 NW !) worth it since I already got a 2012 ?
My wife start saying that I got too many lights

 

[Jimbo75]

my cam is broken.....

just believe my words. tints and beam representations on photos can lie. my text is detailed and tells the truth: buy the XP-G2 Clicky Ti instead of XM-L Clicky Ti.

No probs.

Wish I was able to read this before ordering 2 x XML Neutral Ti clickys...I'm sure I can convince myself they are better .

TweakMDS Looking forward to your shots, thanks for your efforts!!

+1

 

[Fireclaw18]

I hope to be able to post a color temp and output comparison between the SC52 and the XP-G2 D25A Clicky Ti 2013 tomorrow, as I recieved both lights today. However, my light meter is at work and camera battery is in the charger...

I have both. The tint on the cool white XP-G2 D25a 2013 edition is slightly better than the tint on the SC52.

I have no way to measure the output on the light, but at a guess I think the D25a on AW IMR 14500 is outputting maybe 450 lumens. Slightly less than the SC52 on Zebralight 840 Mah 14500. However, the D25a has a brighter hotspot and slightly more throw.

I'm considering buying a 2013 Ti D25C with XML. I wonder how bright it would get if I swap out the stock XML for an XML2. I'm thinking maybe 920 lumens on AW IMR 16340. That would make it around twice as bright as the D25a XPG2.

 

[GordoJones88]

I believe the general consensus with the original black aluminum D25 XMLU2 clicky was the cool white has a very nice premium nearly perfect white tint, and the neutral white was a bit yellowish.

 

[TweakMDS]

Ok, so without pics yet, here's a few minor thoughts I had after last night's fiddling with the new lights.

First off, I tested the following side by side:
- Eagletac D25A Clicky XP-G S2 (CW)
- Eagletac D25A Ti Clicky XM-L U2 (CW - 2012 model)
- Eagletac D25A Ti Clicky XP-G2 R5 (CW - 2013 model)
- Eagletac D25C Ti Clicky XM-L T6 (NW - 2012 model)
- Zebralight SC52 XM-L (not sure of bin)

UI:
I was new to the Zebralight UI, but it took me exactly 11 seconds to get the hang of it.
Eagletac's UI is very familliar to me, and I'm happy to report that where the 2012 Ti models had a bit of grinding due to the Ti on Ti action, the 2013 model is VERY smooth to twist the head. Major improvement in my opinion, since it's the first thing you notice.

Output:
Some were brighter than others, nothing conclusive yet. I put fresh Energizer Lithium AA's in the new lights and the ZebraLight seemed to win out on max output against the AA's, but not by a lot. The D25C is still in a class of it's own between the others and I know it's silly to include it, but it's small enough to pass for an EDC in their rotation.

Beam:
D25A in XP-G2 has quite a tight beam for such a small light. Hotspot looked to be a tiny bit smaller than the D25A XP-G.
The Zebralight beam is more in the direction of the D25C XM-L.

Tint:
I'm sorry to say that the XP-G S2 in my aluminum D25A is STILL the favorite. However, none of the tints in my new lights disappointed me. Without testing, I'm still going to claim a small tint lottery victory in the SC52. Tint actually looks very similar between the SC52 and the D25A Ti Clicky XP-G2.

Further testing:
I'll leave runtime, lux and lumens output testing to the experts here, but I will try to offer some new looks into this.
My testing will mostly be on the beam shape and the amount a light deviates from "daylight white balance", by calibrating my DSLR to 5500K + 10 against an 18% graycard. Keep in mind that won't be a "good or bad test", but more of a quantitative measurement.
I own a Sekonic light meter that will do a relatively good job of measuring the light output, so I'll also do a small bounce test at max power as well as a lux test at 1 meter (it measures Ev in 1/10th of an f-stop, but those can easily be converted to lux).

Any additions or recommendations on this?

 

[rookiedaddy]

got mine today...

really very nice creamy white tint! I'm impressed! my first Ti light! LOL!

 

[gunga]

So you can get proper low/medium modes with RCR123?

 

[Dubois]

I just received my first Titanium light - D25A Clicky. It's the 2013 edition, XP-G2. First impressions are that it exceeds my expectations - for a small premium on the aluminium version, I was expecting a fairly shoddy piece of work. It's not at all, in fact it is beautiful.

Some comments. There is a small gap between the body and head, even when tightened, and the brass shows. Still, that brass makes twisting the head very smooth, with no titanium grind.

The beam is as beautiful as Shelm describes - this is my first XP-G2 emitter, and I'm very happy.

The downside is a pre-flash on switching on in moonlight mode. Also, I tried many times to do the three times head twist to access the second series of modes, to no avail. Seems this light only have the one set of head loose modes (with more blinkies that I, or anyone else will ever need). Good to read hear of the one second trick to avoid these and reset back to moonlight (which, incidentally seemed quite bright - brighter than, say, a SC600 - but perhaps only because the hotspot is quite focused).

Anyway, after playing with the head many times, and going through the modes, I noticed that the pre-flash had gone. Great. Except that it returned soon after. I think maybe the mode changing had had some effect. At one stage, going through the modes in sequence, the low mode appeared, without preflash, but then noticibly dimmer after a second. Very strange.

I have it now set so that the pre-flash doesn't appear, but I'm pretty sure that it isn't a true moonlight mode, so maybe the head twisting, mode changing has worked.

Confused? Not as much as I was! It's still a really nice light, and bright enough on eneloops for me not to want to use 14500 (I did, briefly, and the high (head loose) is exactly the same as turbo (head tight).

Oh, and I haven't tried to get the tailcap off - doubt if I could without freezing etc.

 

[shelm]

Maybe it's what Cave Dave said... the two lows are 0.2 and 0.6 which may be indistinguishable?

Can anyone comment on what the two medium levels might be on the 2013?

Thanks Dubois for sharing your careful observations. Complicated and confusing stuff, difficult to reproduce by my part
I have pre-flash on my D25A Clicky Ti XM-L U2 CW too and i dont mind .. i have it on my Quark X too. So it's there on my XP-G2 too. A nice family

I cant notice the difference between lower cycle (Moonlit - Med2 - Hi2 - blinkies) and upper cycle (Lo - Med1 - Hi1 - blinkies) either. Maybe someone can ask Eagletac manufacturer for a short statement. While i am thinking that it was fun to switch between Lo and Moonlit on the Ti U2 CW model, i can totally live with missing Lo. My Ti XP-G2 CW model has the lower cycle only, i.e. with the real Moonlight mode. Awesome stuff!

reppans i dont have any luxmeter, so i cant measure Moonlit-vs-Lo and the Med2-vs-Med1 differences, sorry. From my observation, i would say that the upper cycle is totally absent on my unit, and i am fine with that. Maybe the missing upper cycle is a new feature introduced by the new driver A400RC III driver for better 14500 compatibility. I am almost sure that this is the case.. unless someone has indeed a 2013 D25A Clicky Ti unit with 2 cycles both on Eneloop and on 14500.

Yes on 14500, Hi-mode with head loosened is the same as Turbo-mode with head tightened.

With head loosened and 14500, i get Lo - Med - Hi - blinkies. Just perfect. I'd call this "full" 14500 compatibility even though 14500-Hi is the same as 14500-Turbo.

I mainly bought this for the tint and throw and the fact that it in RL it looks brighter than the floody XML, and that alone is worth the update imho.

Me too i have a lil gap which shows the brass. Eagletac factory workers could have tried harder to minimize the gap, i agree. The torch's UI, 2 mode groups, and the male threads of the head actually require the existence of a tiny gap between head edge and body edge because you couldnt switch modes if it were the opposite: overlong female body threads. With overlong female body threads you'd tighten the head onto the body edge —the gap would be 100% gone!— but the inner head would not make electrical contact to initialize mode switching between the 2 mode groups. Having that gap means that we're on the safe side technically speaking lol

the gap shows on their official webpage picture too wtf!

 

[fnj]

I think if the brass heatsink and the brass into which the threads are cut is the same slug of metal, we have found our reason why they used brass (copper isn't much good for threads). If this is the case, I approve. Is this the case?

 

[reppans]

Thanks for the confirmation Shelm... quick question on a 14500 - do all the modes bump up in brightness, sounds like high > turbo, but do you lose sub-lumen, and does medium move up too?

TweakMDS, could you compare your 2012 D25A XML to the SC52 on moonlight and low? I've measured them to be 0.3 and 2.5 lumens with my DSLR and was wondering if they looked the same between the two lights for you.

(BTW, let me know if you're interested in trying to use a DSLR as an ambient lumen meter)

 

[shelm]

question on a 14500 - do all the modes bump up in brightness, sounds like high > turbo, but do you lose sub-lumen, and does medium move up too?

XP-G2 CW. 14500 bumps up all Eneloop levels:
Eneloop-Moonlit < 14500-Lo
Eneloop-Med2 < 14500-Med
Eneloop-Hi2 < 14500-Hi
Eneloop-Turbo < 14500-Turbo (=14500-Hi)

And as mentioned, 14500-Turbo is the same as 14500-Hi. There is no brightness difference. So we have 4 brightless nevels on Eneloop, and 3 blightness revels on 14500 sorry for my Engrish.

How bright is the 14500-Hi?

I dunno. It is not as bright as XM-L U2 on 14500.

Please buy D25A 2013 Clicky Ti XP-G2 and join the 2013 club!

 

[reppans]

Hmmm, I'm thinking of staying with my 2012 on Eneloops - I'm a floody low lumen/long runtime fan and love my XMLs and really kinda like having the distinct 0.3/6 and 2.5/15 lumen L/M banks.

 

[american]

I have the 2013 ti and the sc52 the zl goes much lower in moon you can reprogram 2 levels lower then stock. My eagletac also has the preflash

 

[Fireclaw18]

I have the 2013 ti and the sc52 the zl goes much lower in moon you can reprogram 2 levels lower then stock. My eagletac also has the preflash

Yes, the SC52 definitely has more modes. I have the 2013 D25a XPG2 cool white and the SC52.

Comparing the SC52 on 840 Mah Zebralight brand 14500 to my 2013 Ti D25a on AW IMR 14500 I notice the following:
1. The SC52's low is much lower than the D25a's low. The SC52 has actual moonlight mode. The D25a just has a standard low and no moonlight.
2. The SC52's max power puts out slightly more lumens than the D25a (my guess is the SC52 is putting out 500 and the D25 is putting out 400-450).
3. The SC52 has much better thermal management. This is to be expected due to its one-piece body design and aluminum construction. The SC52 gets hot along its whole length. In contrast the D25 gets burning hot at the head while the body remains relatively cool.
4. Due to the automatic 1-minute stepdown and superior thermal management the SC52 is one light I'd feel comfortable giving to non-flashaholics even with 14500 installed. Due to the risk of fire, I'd never give a non-flashaholic a D25 with a 14500 in it.
5. The D25's spill is much dimmer than the spill on the SC52. However, the D25's hotspot is slightly brighter and it throws further.
6. The D25's cool white tint is slightly better than the SC52's tint.
7. The SC52's interface with 3 programmable mode groups and 11 different brightness settings are superior to the D25's very limited 3 brightness settings.

If I could only take one of the above lights with me, I'd take the SC52. Both are great lights though.

I wonder how hard it is to take the emitter out of a 2013 D25c Ti. I've ordered one with a cool white U2 emitter. If I can get to the emitter I'm thinking of swapping it for an XML2 U2 for an extra 20% brightness. Selfbuilt measured the D25C on IMR16340 direct drive at 770 lumens. Upping that to XML2 should raise the brightness to around 920 lumens out-the-front ... a true pocket rocket!

 

[shelm]

2. The SC52's max power puts out slightly more lumens than the D25a (my guess is the SC52 is putting out 500 and the D25 is putting out 400-450).

Great post, thanks!!
How much brighter is the SC52 on Eneloop — by a lot?
selfbuilt and Zebralight light are generous with their official/posted ratings, measurements, test and estimations, so i do/am the same :nana::
I herewith officially declare my unit of D25A Clicky Ti XP-G2 R5 CW to output est. 200 ANSI lumens on Eneloop AA 2nd gen.

It is certainly more than 150 ANSI lumens since it clearly(!) beats my P1A and JR30. Totally stunning!! oo: :huh:

- Zebralight SC52: f/10
- 2013 Eagletac D25A Ti XP-G2 CW: f/9
- 2012 Eagletac D25A Ti XM-L CW: f/9
- 2012 Eagletac D25C Ti XM-L NW: f/14

I dont have a grasp of f-stop numbers. Please are you able to convert these brightness numbers into percentages? Since this is the Clicky Ti thread, feel free to assign 100% to the Ti XP-G2. It has a good mixture between throw and flood. Perfect as reference ceiling bounce number.

 

[TweakMDS]

Ahead of real testing, on my lightmeter, the Zebralight SC52 was exactly 1/3rd f-stop brighter than the 2013 D25A Ti on XP-G2.
Ceiling/corner bounce with a sekonic ls308s (with a fixed shutterspeed and ISO) and gave it
- Zebralight SC52: f/10
- 2013 Eagletac D25A Ti XP-G2 CW: f/9
- 2012 Eagletac D25A Ti XM-L CW: f/9
- 2012 Eagletac D25C Ti XM-L NW: f/14

I'll redo these tests though, since I didn't have the lightmeter in the right mode and the bedroom wasn't completely dark so I had some light pollution from outside (metered f/5 without any flashlight on).

 

[rookiedaddy]

just to share a few more pics of the newly acquired D25C Ti XP-G2 edition...

the tints and beam on these XP-G2 D25C Ti are some of the nicest cool white I've seen. needless to say, I'm impressed! :thumbsup:
I much prefer these over the XML (both cool and neutral white edition) as the beam and tint on these XP-G2 are simply better.
low and medium mode has PWM-like effect at pretty high frequency (can only detect if I swipe/shake the light very fast, or shine it onto a fan, or use a video camera)... as I'm pretty sensitive to PWM, I thought I will be affected, but to my surprise, after 2 days of EDC-ing, I didn't notice its effect at all during use, and I'm constantly and consciously reminding myself of the PWM-like at the low and medium mode while using it... yes, you can say that I'm searching for the PWM effect, but I found none during usage. nice!