Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

[ScottJD]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

It also says read here for Li-ion 3.7V and refers to the disclaimer and recommended suggestions on how to operate if you use a Li-Ion 3.7V.

* Using 4.2V li-ion direct drives the LED and yields maximum output at the expense of extensive heat generated from the LED. Limit each usage to less than fives minutes (or less than one minute each with freshly charged li-ion for the first couple times). Active cooling (blowing cool air toward the light) or passive cooling (holding the light in your hand) helps preventing excessive heat built at the LED. Turn off the light to allow it to cool down if you find the flashlight too hot to hold. Do not leave the light running unattended with li-ion. During direct drive, output at low and medium mode will be higher than normal.

Leads me to beleive their maximum voltage statement is kind of confusing and misleading, but it's not the first time EagleTac has made false statements or typos on the web site.
Ive read they do support Li-Ion 3.7V when I was debating on buying the DC25A. not sire how it would work if you went with a 3.3V LIFO rechargeable instead. It might not heat up as much for the first couple power ups like a charged Li-Ion at 4.2V. But also may not run in direct drive mode either.

Ok, I'm a bit confused. RCR123's I've seen 3v and 3.7v. The D25c specs says operating voltage upto 3.2v. Now I'm even more confused. Which do I buy and use.

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

I've emailed them for advice. .........

 

[ScottJD]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Steve, good idea. They took a couple days last time I emailed them to respond, but they do respond.
I also forgot to ask if it's the 2014 model or titanium model.
The TI specs say "

• *Compatible with RCR123A li-ion Battery fitment"

Then the link takes you to the standard D25C page with the same disclaimer. When I also emailed them they told me the drivers cuircuts on the titanium and standards are identical. So it should have no issues with the Li-Ion when you read it like that.

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Probably playing catch up but I've just seen this

The most common chemistries you'll find:
ICR and IMR rechargeables: 4.2V max, 3.7V nominal
IFR (Lifepo4): 3.6V max, 3.2V nominal
3.0V RCRs are a special case: they are a regular ICR (4.2V max, 3.7V nominal) with a circuit on top that makes it appear to the outside world that it's a 3.0V cell

Never realised batteries were so confusing

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

ok so Nirecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly

until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?

put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

ok so Nitecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly

until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?

put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?

 

[cyclesport]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

ok so Nirecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly

until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?

put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?

Let me understand...with a Nitecore brand 3.7v Li-ion (16340) you get, low-(a true)medium-High? *Are you sure its not Low-High-High? If not, it's the first D25C I've ever seen, out of many, that keeps it's medium mode with a Li-ion battery?

Then using any other 16340, or 3v primary...nothing?!

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Sorry, yes, low, high, high and turbo seems same as high. All other batteries dead as dodo. Seriously not impressed with this product. Emails from Eagletac contradicted their website info on batteries. Web site max voltage stated 3.2, advise c I can use Eagletac 3.7v batteries ? ?

 

[cyclesport]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Yeah, Eagletac's D25C regulation leaves something to be desired in that with any power source over 3v (even a 3.2v LiFePo) you simply loose medium (although usually retain all other modes). Most people that frequent this forum and are familiar with this light accept it's quirk with Li-ions or just use 3v primary batt's. since it's a very efficient light and a primary goes a long way in this format.

Since other batteries are not working at all...I suspect contact isn't being adequately made. Have you tried cleaning the contact pad and spring with Isopropyl Alcohol?

EDIT: Sorry, I forgot to answer your last question re 3.7v batt's...yes, you can use them, but just realize that in the higher modes you are running the light in direct drive and it will get hot very fast (25/30sec. on high) and turn it off, or down when you feel the light getting too hot. You could possibly destroy the emitter or drive circuit, but more likely just shorten their life.

 

[ScottJD]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Sorry to hear about the Li-ion causing and issue with the light. As you know he site did have conflicting info and that's why you decided to contact EagleTac support. I assume they said it was OK since you purchased and tried the Li-Ion cell.

Not sure if your looking to get credit for the light but originally I know I was debating between the D25A clicky and the ZebraLight SC52W L2, and ended up getting the ZebraLight and have been happy with the performance, different levels including moon light even when running the Li-Ion cells. The only problem I recently ran into was trying the KeepPower 14500, it should be called the 14530 battery. So it's to big for the ZebraLight so I have to return them and look for another Sanyo 14500 protected cell.

Again sorry to hear it affected your light. I also have an email from EagleTac saying Li-Ion works and won't affect other functions of the light from when I contacted them.
Does standard alkaline batteries still work? Or are you stuck with Li-Ion only now?


Sent from my iPad using Candlepowerforums

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Have emailed Eagletac again , awaiting reply, really disappointed so far having read all good stuff here.

 

[reppans]

Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

ok so Nirecore RCRs received, charged and all works perfectly

until ..... swaped back to ANY other battery Nitecore C123A, AW RCR or ANOTHER BRAND C123 and torch totally dead ? ? ? ? ?

put Nitecore RCRs back in....... works ? ? ?

This sounds totally bizarre... only thing I can think of is that the NC 16340 cell was too long and that you somehow over-compressed the spring so that when you use shorter cells, one end or the other is not touching and you do not have a complete circuit.

I would try bypassing the body/clicky with a wire or paperclip like THIS. The negative path on the D25s runs to the threads for loose bezel modes, and to a combination of threads AND outer brass ring on the circuit board for tight bezel modes. If the bypass works, just try and stretch your spring out a bit.

Sorry to hear about ET's poor CS, but I'm not surprised - consider a FourSevens light for warranty and customer service in this price range (and good regulation).

 

[selfbuilt]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

This sounds totally bizarre... only thing I can think of is that the NC 16340 cell was too long and that you somehow over-compressed the spring so that when you use shorter cells, one end or the other is not touching and you do not have a complete circuit.

Yeah, that would be my best guess as well - or maybe the positive contact disc got dented in? Doesn't make a lot of sense otherwise. :thinking: Try the paper clip trick and let us know how it goes.

The only Nitecore RCR I've seen is the NL166 (650mAh), and it measures 34.7mm in length - compared to 34.3mm for most of my AW RCR and primary CR123As. Not a huge difference, so I wouldn't have expected any problems.

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

OK here goes.... trying three batteries listed in height order Nitecore RCR123A, Duracell 123 & Nitecore C123A

Bypass test.... ALL batteries work.
Pulled spring our slightly, RCR feels tighter under bezel, VERY slight undo twist to get mode two, hard to actually do, other two batteries...... nothing any mode


This torch is doing my head in.

 

[reppans]

Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Well congrats ... at least you have narrowed the issue down to a simple mechanical connection thing somewhere between the body/spring/clicky (usually used repairable).

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

ut the Nitecore RCR still works when others don't ? does that narrow it down to a connection issue ?

 

[reppans]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Pulled spring our slightly, RCR feels tighter under bezel, VERY slight undo twist to get mode two, hard to actually do, other two batteries...... nothing any mode

Did you try the shorter cells first, AFTER stretching the spring

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review

yep, initially tried all yesterday, did bypass test, stretched spring, and only difference was the Nitecore RCR that worked felt tighter under bezel and was very very delicate with amount of twist to get mode 2, fraction of a turn only.

POSSIBLY SORTED ! !

just been having another play with spring. Have the Duracell and Nirecore CR123A now working low med high, silly flashes mode 2, turbo & strobe mode 1. Now replaced with RCR and bezel VERY tight to get mode 1. seem to get low high high x2 silly flashes, mode 1 high & strobe. difficult to tell if high or turbo seem equally bright
Not sure how the spring and tightness and bezel position works the modes but think i'm gonna stick to the primaries that work and put the RCRs down as a bad experience.

 

[reppans]

Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

Well the bypass test confirms the head and driver is OK. I don't know if your light is a Ti or anodized, but if the inside of your battery tube is bare metal (not anodized) then you can try dropping a ball of tinfoil between the spring and batt tube wall and see what works. This bridges the spring and tube wall (bypasses the clicky) effectively testing the tube and spring connections.

EDIT... Well seems you may have it sorted. Rechargeables that are too long can mess with everything, including pressing the circuit board to hard and crushing things in the head. Sounds like a good idea to leave that long cell out of the equation.

 

[brightsteve]

Re: Eagletac D25 Clicky Series Round-up Review (D25C, D25A2, D25LC2 - XM-L & XP-G)

thanks for all the help torch, Ti version, nearly went for a long drop off of a short pier ! ! ! still don't quite follow how the bezel adjusts the modes but I do see that the length seems to be critical on this light. do I read right that high and turbo become one and medium disappears ?