Ebay "4000 lm", "120m" Dive Light.

[caveeagle]

I was thinking of using a thin alum tub to internally splice the cut down tube. ...but I like your (DIW) idea better. I don't have access to a lathe right now, so I would have to find a way to bore/cut for the joint. I just orderred this light over the weekend. So I am curious to see how if looks in person.

I am still learning to sort of the electrical specs on light mods. I assume your battery choice (voltage) would determine how much power would be pushed to the Driver/LED resulting in incresed light and heat. So I guess one would need to find a way to increase the heat sinc to maximize light from this combo.

 

[kucor]

Hi, did anyone tried to fit protected Panasonic NCR's into this flashlight?

I've been diving with it for a month, it is great diving magnetic switch flashlight for the money, but battery life is poor (~40 min with trustfire 2400Mah), so thinking about getting 2 or 3 pairs of protected 3400mAh.

thanks

 

[clawnfish]

Hi,

Does anybody know how does the switch of this lamp works. Form the pics, it can be seen that it has only one hall sensor.

Do you have any idea if we can use such a solution, for example, with taskled drivers for dimming, or the ones like pcb-components ?

Thanks

 

[DIWdiver]

Yes, it's almost certainly a single Hall sensor. In it's pure form, a Hall sensor is an analog device. The stronger the magnetic field, the higher the output voltage.

Since we often want to use them as switches, many sensors carefully digitize this signal into an on/off output. However, you can get analog ones. The driver in this light is built to take the analog voltage from the sensor and control the output current from that.

For an electronics designer, that's not hard to do. But if you're not prepared to design and build your own driver, you have very few choices. Some of the LuxDrive drivers accept analog inputs. Those and my IS1006 and 1011 are the only flashlight-size drivers I'm aware of that are designed for analog input. I don't specify mine that way, but they are in fact analog input.

Taskled's H6CC, Hyperboost, and Hyperbuck drivers accept 'potentiometer' input. I'm not sure they would work with a voltage input. I'd be inclined to think not, but you'd have to ask George to be sure. His other drivers definitely wouldn't accept analog input. I checked pdb-components.de and none of their drivers accept analog input. Their LedStripe dimmer accepts analog inputs, but it costs more than the drivers that accept analog input, and it still needs a driver!

Another problem is that the Hall sensor naturally has an output voltage that's half the supply voltage when no field is present. The voltage increases for one polarity of field, and decreases for the other polarity. All the analog sensors I looked at maintain this characteristic with their processed outputs. Unfortunately, you want zero light when there is zero field (or perhaps a small non-zero field). Some additional work would need to be done to achieve this performance, unless you can find a sensor that has zero output at zero field. I didn't look really hard, but I think it's unlikely you'll find one.

I did find some programmable sensors that could be programmed to work the way you want, but buying a programmer for a one-off build is probably cost prohibitive. You might find that you can buy them pre-programmed for this behavior. I didn't pursue that option because it wasn't obvious to me how to do so.

 

[rivica]

Hi, what is the max input voltage of this flashlight?

 

[clawnfish]

Thank you DIWdiver for the explanation. You mentioned that you have drivers too. Do you sell them ?

Yes, it's almost certainly a single Hall sensor. In it's pure form, a Hall sensor is an analog device. The stronger the magnetic field, the higher the output voltage.

Since we often want to use them as switches, many sensors carefully digitize this signal into an on/off output. However, you can get analog ones. The driver in this light is built to take the analog voltage from the sensor and control the output current from that.

For an electronics designer, that's not hard to do. But if you're not prepared to design and build your own driver, you have very few choices. Some of the LuxDrive drivers accept analog inputs. Those and my IS1006 and 1011 are the only flashlight-size drivers I'm aware of that are designed for analog input. I don't specify mine that way, but they are in fact analog input.

Taskled's H6CC, Hyperboost, and Hyperbuck drivers accept 'potentiometer' input. I'm not sure they would work with a voltage input. I'd be inclined to think not, but you'd have to ask George to be sure. His other drivers definitely wouldn't accept analog input. I checked pdb-components.de and none of their drivers accept analog input. Their LedStripe dimmer accepts analog inputs, but it costs more than the drivers that accept analog input, and it still needs a driver!

Another problem is that the Hall sensor naturally has an output voltage that's half the supply voltage when no field is present. The voltage increases for one polarity of field, and decreases for the other polarity. All the analog sensors I looked at maintain this characteristic with their processed outputs. Unfortunately, you want zero light when there is zero field (or perhaps a small non-zero field). Some additional work would need to be done to achieve this performance, unless you can find a sensor that has zero output at zero field. I didn't look really hard, but I think it's unlikely you'll find one.

I did find some programmable sensors that could be programmed to work the way you want, but buying a programmer for a one-off build is probably cost prohibitive. You might find that you can buy them pre-programmed for this behavior. I didn't pursue that option because it wasn't obvious to me how to do so.

 

[DIWdiver]

Yes, I do.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Automotive-linear-13-5A-LED-driver-adjustable

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...stable-10A-linear-LED-driver-New-and-Improved!