Falcata Mods?

seatown7

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Greetings,

I have a Night Ops Falcata 9v. I really like this light but was wondering about any mods available. I've also tried some off brand RCR123s in this light but the light shuts itself off frequently. Thats not good for me since I'm a cop and having my light on when I need it is sorta important. :twak:
Anyone have any mods or battery options for this light?

Thanks,

Bill
 

dano

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Nothing comes to mind. The LED drop-ins do NOT fit the Falcata series.

The light may draw too much current to be reliable with rechargeable 123's.
 

supes

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I liked the Falcata outside design but that was about it for me. I had a 6V(and 9V) once and it does not fare well in submersion of water. Although filled with water, it worked. Warranty is good though.

It is actually possibily to use the P60 style drop ins in the Falcata, you just have to remove the reflector and o-ring(very easy to do). Some certain drop ins might be a little on the big side, so filing on certain areas might be necessary.

Host for a Malkoff M60 MC-E, maybe? (just give me a chance to buy a MC-E Warm first though before they sell out again.)

Not really a lot you can do with this light. Can't fit an AW 17670 protected cell without boring. Certainly no 18650s. Rechargeable R123 possible. Maybe SF P90 LOLA with 2 AW RCR123a cells.

This light in non-stock form would not be one of my choices to use if I were in your line of work.
 
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Norm

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Incandescent to LED Falcata 6V. Mod - CandlePowerForums
I posted this some time ago.
dsc03121uz4.jpg

Norm
 

dano

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Did you have to file down the outer/lower "lip" on the drop-in? I tried a bunch of drop ins in my Falcata, and none would fit enough to make contact with the metal sleeve that runs inside the body (the body of the falcata is not the electrical path. There's a metal sleeve that runs the length of the body)?
 

Norm

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Did you have to file down the outer/lower "lip" on the drop-in? I tried a bunch of drop ins in my Falcata, and none would fit enough to make contact with the metal sleeve that runs inside the body (the body of the falcata is not the electrical path. There's a metal sleeve that runs the length of the body)?
Did you look at the other post I link to? It was a couple of years ago and the drop ins have changed slightly, I filed around the base until the drop in fitted as shown it makes contact with the battery tube and from what I remember I had to remove the plastic washer that the battery normal rest against and had to stretch the positive spring just a bit.

It is a bit long for me to remember exactly but it makes a nice LED light, I ran it on 1 X 17670. I think I played around with a different version drop in that used the big spring, I have some springs that are narrower one end and the narrow end is a firm fit into the light body.

Sorry I'm a bit foggy on the details but at least you now you know that it can be done.
Norm
 

Paladin

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FWIW I pulled my 9 volt Falcata from storage, and determined that AW protected 17500 Li-ion cells DO NOT FIT. Also remembered I need a couple of spare lamps for it! Those things are built like a brick house.

Paladin
 

Raoul_Duke

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From NORM's thread

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2819422&postcount=4

and from the parts I had laying around here,
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/219828

I was able to build a WA 1185 into my ( 4 year, previously redundant ) 9V Falcata....very nice and quick mod!
but as I say I had all the spare parts just sitting doing nothing, so I guess It could add up by the time you get to the charger.



Oh...BTW the WA 1185 lamps, previously could not be built this small and was maglite territory, untill untill a few months back when AW released the new IMR 123 cells ..... Now its surefire etc. territory.

~I think~ when you hit the button for the first time on one of these with 3 full IMR cells behind it you are pumping out ~1000~ lumens.

Very nice for your line of work...but I'd keep a back up LED light for routine stuff, as this WA 85 thing is a real SHTF light, but only has 10 mins runtime.

It's so Insanely bright though I love it...and have another already built in a Vital Gear F3 with FB2 head...its also a nice small '85 :)

Great thread. :sick2: & thanks for the fun day of unexpected modding !! :twothumbs
 
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Raoul_Duke

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Oh the cell are unprotected which means you can run them flat ( Keep the light on ) if you have to...but you will ruin the cells if you go to low....( below ~ 2.5V)

I'd buy a few sets, lightly shrink wrap them, and change out often. :naughty:
 

seatown7

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Thanks for the info and links...but the links are mostly no longer working. :mecry:Can anyone post a current link or tell me where to get one of the mentioned LED modules. I have a friend with a lathe that might be able to make one of these work. My bulb in the Falcata is blown and I don't wanna spend $25- $30 for another incan.

Thanks,

Bill
 
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dano

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Thanks for the info and links...but the links are mostly no longer working. :mecry:Can anyone post a current tell me where to get one of the mentioned LED modules. I have a friend with a lathe that might be able to make one of these work. My bulb in the Falcata is blown and I don't wanna spend $25- $30 for another incan.

Thanks,

Bill

The Falcata 9 volt (and 6 volt) bulb is the same as Streamlight's bulb used in the SL TL-3/2, but the Falcata is a one piece unit, while the SL is a two piece unit (bi-pin bulb and base).

You could make your own SL based Falcata bulb:
--Purchase a Streamlight TL series bulb base (Streamlight part number 850019 will work)
--Purchase a TL-3 bi-pin bulb (part number 88914, for the 9 volt bulb)
--Remove the spring from the Falcata lamp assembly and solder it to the SL bulb base.

With this, you can replace the bulb, and it's about 5 bucks per bulb, not the 30 bucks for a real Falcata lamp assembly.

Also, Streamlight makes a shock-proof assembly for the TL-3, which may work, part number 88180, but I haven;'t tested it in a Falcata.

--dan
 
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seatown7

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Any Night-Ops experts? Will the new Gladius LED fit the Falcata?
 
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