Fenix LD01 parasitic drain

[Lynx_Arc]

Please remember that LD01 uses an AAA cell whose average capacity is 800 mAh

800 : 2.5 : 24 = 13 days for a complete drainage, but probably after 8 days the light is already dead

yeah forgot it was AAA and I have one also lol
thing is that type of drain should take more than a few days there is something else going on. I would say if you cannot figure it out send it back for repair/replacement.

 

[Zendude]

That measurement doesn't mean anything. Of course current will flow through the circuit when you apply voltage. The point is that unless something weird is going on, turning off the light completely disconnects the battery for the circuit. I'd say look for crap (machining burrs etc) on the upper edge of the battery tube, and similarly on the PC board ring contact that the tube presses against when the light is turned on. Also, when you turn off the light, make a point of backing it off 1/2 turn or so from when the light actually stops lighting up. There is often quite a bit of slop in the threads of those things. Try turning the light only "slightly" off, then compressing it (pressing the head down lengthwise) with your fingers, and you're likely to see it turn on again. It's possible that is happening in your pocket.

Umm, that measurement means everything. If he's reading anything besides a complete open, he's got a problem.

Edit:OK maybe not a complete open. I measured a MiNi AA, D10 and LD01 SS on the + and - contacts . I got 85K and 64K and 570K respectively. Complete open when measuring casing to + contact.

I agree about looking for metal fragments that may be partially shorting the board but I've got a gut feeling its a faulty component(could be last nights pizza though). The OP stated he was aware of the thread play and made sure to keep it loose enough.

To the OP: Since you bought it used I guess you don't have any warranty...that sucks.

You could try taking the head apart, maybe you'll get lucky and find something. Good luck!

 

[Dcon67]

Please remember that LD01 uses an AAA cell whose average capacity is 800 mAh

800 : 2.5 : 24 = 13 days for a complete drainage, but probably after 8 days the light is already dead

This sounds about right. I haven't done a comprehensive test where I checked the battery daily or anything, but two weeks until dead is pretty close.

Also, my reading is give or take a few ohm's. I got slightly different readings depending on the scale I'm using. (this is an older analog meter). Setting the dial at 10X, which is the middle one gave me the 600 reading...using 1X it appeared closer to 800, and 100X in the 500's. So I went with the reading in the middle.

 

[paulr]

I don't think an ohm reading means much of anything, when it is an active load. Try measuring the current flow with 1.5v in and a relatively high resistance (2k, say) in series with the circuit.

 

[Ron Gallant]

Funny, I had the EXACT SAME ISSUE. SS LD01, would last about 2 weeks on the shelf. Sent it back, a few months later, they sent me a replacement. This one has no issues.

 

[Jay R]

The negative contact in a LD01 goes from the body of the light to the bare metal 'ring' close to the edge of the circuit board in the head. When you tighten the threads, the top of the battery tube is pushed against this ring making contact. You should do a continuity check between the outside case of the head and the ring around the circuit board. It should show no contact, ( or at least, a VERY high resistance.)
If you have some gunk or even a thin film of conductive oil around the edge of the circuit board it could cause a current seepage between this contact ring and the body of the light. Clean the head out as much as you can and try again.
If the board is as clean as you can make it but the cell is still going flat, there is probably contact between one of the components on the other side of the board and the case in which case it needs returning.

 

[FRANKVZ]

I don't think an ohm reading means much of anything, when it is an active load. Try measuring the current flow with 1.5v in and a relatively high resistance (2k, say) in series with the circuit.

This is the reading when the light is off and it means current will flow and drain the battery.

 

[Dcon67]

The negative contact in a LD01 goes from the body of the light to the bare metal 'ring' close to the edge of the circuit board in the head. When you tighten the threads, the top of the battery tube is pushed against this ring making contact. You should do a continuity check between the outside case of the head and the ring around the circuit board. It should show no contact, ( or at least, a VERY high resistance.)
If you have some gunk or even a thin film of conductive oil around the edge of the circuit board it could cause a current seepage between this contact ring and the body of the light. Clean the head out as much as you can and try again.
If the board is as clean as you can make it but the cell is still going flat, there is probably contact between one of the components on the other side of the board and the case in which case it needs returning.

I don't think that test makes any difference since I already have a partial connection between the positive contact point in the center of the head and the outside casing it means the connection is made.

If I were to use an aluminum battery tube from a different model it would most likely solve the problem since the annodizing on the threads would break the negative connection to the heads case. Except for the fact that I'd have a frankenstein light. Someone earlier in this thread stated that this solved his problem...which was worse since they had a dead short which rendered the light inoperable. At least in my case it's just a slow drain.

Anyway, I ordered a LiteFlux LF2XT from Khoo as a replacement ...as soon as it arrives I plan to sell this light in the Marketplace to someone that would like to either mod it / fix it / or whatever. I'll also reference this thread, so that whomever purchases it will be aware of the issue.

 

[Jay R]

I don't think that test makes any difference since I already have a partial connection between the positive contact point in the center of the head and the outside casing it means the connection is made .

Ah, yes. Good point.

 

[kitelights]

A little OT ..... I've never understood using NiMH rechargeables in these type of lights.

I do understand liking 'free' lumens, but most of the pocket AAA lights are known for sucking cells dry while maintaining regulation, or at least partial regulation.

The likelihood of over discharging good cells like Eneloops is pretty high.

The LF will take care of that problem for both NiMH and LiIon with it's discharge protection if you use it.

With my ARCs and LOD 01 / LD 01, I always use a lithium primary. Lighter, brighter, lasts longer, no worries with leaking, not subject to extreme temperatures, etc. If I get in a pinch, I'll throw in an alkaline, but these lights are what a lithium primary is for to me.

 

[Kestrel]

The likelihood of over discharging good cells like Eneloops is pretty high.

This is something that I've been worrying about for the OP's Eneloops - if a defective short circuit (or some such thing) in his light has completely discharged his AAA's over a period of a week or two, he probably only realized this once his cells were completely dead - from what I read, this is definitely not good for the LSD property of the NiMH. Perhaps a cell expert might chime in, but there's a good chance that the over-discharged Eneloop(s) might have lost at least part of their LSD characteristics from this.

If I get in a pinch, I'll throw in an alkaline, but these lights are what a lithium primary is for to me.

I've been thinking of picking up 4 Energizer lithium AAA's for my LD01 (currently running Eneloops), this way I can give two to a friend of mine who is almost definitely has an alkaline in the LD01 SS that I gave him.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

I've been using duraloops in my LD01SS for a year now and after the first recharge it is essentially free lumens plus before you go out somewhere you know you won't be near a charger you can top it off vs not knowing how much juice is left in that lithium primary and having to put in another one to be assured full runtime each time and dealing with half used batteries.

 

[Kestrel]

I've been using duraloops in my LD01SS for a year now and after the first recharge it is essentially free lumens plus before you go out somewhere you know you won't be near a charger you can top it off vs not knowing how much juice is left in that lithium primary and having to put in another one to be assured full runtime each time and dealing with half used batteries.

Good point - maybe the LD01's driver might be a little tough on LSD cells like Eneloops, but you still come out ahead after a couple of cycles. If I had some (less-expensive) Rayovac LSD AAA's, I'd probably use those instead for general usage, saving the (now rather spendy - haven't seen them on sale around here for quite a while) Eneloop / Duraloop AAA's.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

Good point - maybe the LD01's driver might be a little tough on LSD cells like Eneloops, but you still come out ahead after a couple of cycles. If I had some (less-expensive) Rayovac LSD AAA's, I'd probably use those instead for general usage, saving the (now rather spendy - haven't seen them on sale around here for quite a while) Eneloop / Duraloop AAA's.

You only have to get 2 full uses out of even a duraloop and then you would save over a normally priced lithium AAA cell. If I could get lithium AAAs on sale for 50 cents each just once a year I would be using them but ~$2 for 3 hours runtime isn't my idea of fun.

 

[mcnair55]

A little OT ..... I've never understood using NiMH rechargeables in these type of lights.

I do understand liking 'free' lumens, but most of the pocket AAA lights are known for sucking cells dry while maintaining regulation, or at least partial regulation.

The likelihood of over discharging good cells like Eneloops is pretty high.

The LF will take care of that problem for both NiMH and LiIon with it's discharge protection if you use it.

With my ARCs and LOD 01 / LD 01, I always use a lithium primary. Lighter, brighter, lasts longer, no worries with leaking, not subject to extreme temperatures, etc. If I get in a pinch, I'll throw in an alkaline, but these lights are what a lithium primary is for to me.

That is interesting I run most of my edc,s on eneloop type but have never had a problem and I let my Microstream go very low before I recharge although for the collection lights I use Lithium.I may revaluate my thinking on eneloop types for my lights.

 

[richardcpf]

My 10440 leaked inside my LD10 SS after three weeks without using it... the liquid got into the head but surprisingly the flashlight is still working.

It was a DX battery by the way

 

[nbp]

:shrug:

I run my LD01 SS on Eneloops and I have no problems at all. I carry this light as a backup, it gets used, but the battery is never drained that deeply. I just pop a fresh one in every every couple of weeks and go. I have never had any problems with turning it on to find it's dead. I would agree that it's the light, not the batteries that the OP is using that is causing the problem. That is just based on my experience. And unfortunately I'm not good enough with electrical stuff to offer any other ideas of what's wrong. I can just say I'm sure it's not the battery.