Fraz Labs Mechanical Flashlights (formerly QTC Non-Battery Crush)

[JohnTz]

How long did it take to get it. Wait for mine with great anticipation!!!

Took about a week.

 

[scottk2112]

Took about a week.

That's pretty fast. Good to hear.

 

[intake_monk]

Maybe stupid question, I swapped out the 16mm mcpcb in the QT-SS in for another 16mm with a 3000k sft-40 but I'm having no luck getting it to activate. I noticed the previous mcpcb had solder blobs that interfaced with the washers on the positive negative terminals. Is that a requirement? Or is there another way short of buying a soldering iron to get that connection to bridge to the copper on the mcpcb? It's currently making physical contact but I guess the current is insufficient ><.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

Maybe stupid question, I swapped out the 16mm mcpcb in the QT-SS in for another 16mm with a 3000k sft-40 but I'm having no luck getting it to activate. I noticed the previous mcpcb had solder blobs that interfaced with the washers on the positive negative terminals. Is that a requirement? Or is there another way short of buying a soldering iron to get that connection to bridge to the copper on the mcpcb? It's currently making physical contact but I guess the current is insufficient ><.

Some put the MCPCB on a hot plate to heat it up and add solder to the pads. Maybe putting a shim with copper foil might get the right height to properly interface with the connection, but definitely not a reliable option.

I use this to reflow LEDs and add solder blobs. I place it on a ceramic plate on a silicone trivet to prevent the heating element from burning the table. I squeeze solder paste on to the empty pads and wait for it to liquefy, then unplug the reflow plate to allow it to cool. Super simple process.

 

[JohnTz]

Try a shim just to check the led and if that works then you need to get some solder blobs on the pads.

 

[JohnTz]

Hi everyone. Looking for your experience on different QTC material. I love this light but it seems it needs large torque to get the high output. So much so that it's hard to untwist from the full on position. Is that your experience as well? Does there exist different QTC materials that don't require as much compression force to go full on? I have been using this light daily in Europe in a camping trip and it is awesome but the amount of torque to get full power seems excessive or maybe it is what it is do to the QTC material characteristics.

 

[intake_monk]

Some put the MCPCB on a hot plate to heat it up and add solder to the pads. Maybe putting a shim with copper foil might get the right height to properly interface with the connection, but definitely not a reliable option.

I use this to reflow LEDs and add solder blobs. I place it on a ceramic plate on a silicone trivet to prevent the heating element from burning the table. I squeeze solder paste on to the empty pads and wait for it to liquefy, then unplug the reflow plate to allow it to cool. Super simple process.

Thanks for the recommendation. Will probably pick that up and try out reflowing.

Try a shim just to check the led and if that works then you need to get some solder blobs on the pads.

Will also try this. Is aluminum foil a good enough shim?

Hi everyone. Looking for your experience on different QTC material. I love this light but it seems it needs large torque to get the high output. So much so that it's hard to untwist from the full on position. Is that your experience as well? Does there exist different QTC materials that don't require as much compression force to go full on? I have been using this light daily in Europe in a camping trip and it is awesome but the amount of torque to get full power seems excessive or maybe it is what it is do to the QTC material characteristics.

Without seeing your setup, I had a similar issue. With my QT-SS, when I was having issues with the torque, it was actually an issue with the battery height. I loosened the tailcap and got the battery to drop lower in the chamber and the qtc was way easier to interact with without essentially crushing the battery. If your battery is protected and you haven't adjusted this from factory, it's almost certain that's the first fix to try.

 

[JohnTz]

Thanks intake_monk for the reply. I have a Keepower unprotected cell in there and I also got the tailcap tool and adjusted the tail cap to ensure there was not a battery crush problem. My battery sits at less than 1/8 inch above the lower body. I think it just may be the nature of the beast.

 

[intake_monk]

Thanks intake_monk for the reply. I have a Keepower unprotected cell in there and I also got the tailcap tool and adjusted the tail cap to ensure there was not a battery crush problem. My battery sits at less than 1/8 inch above the lower body. I think it just may be the nature of the beast.

Shoot sorry to hear that. Maybe silly questions to follow with, but have you already tried switching out the qtc under the piston with one of the spares, and or tried flipping the same one upside down and reinstalling it? And has this always been an issue since getting the light?

 

[JohnTz]

Shoot sorry to hear that. Maybe silly questions to follow with, but have you already tried switching out the qtc under the piston with one of the spares, and or tried flipping the same one upside down and reinstalling it? And has this always been an issue since getting the light?

Yes I tried those things. Same results. It's all good. I love the light. It's a beast and I can trust it as my only light on camping trips and night hiking as there really isn't anything that can fail in it. I just have to get used to the amount of torque required to get full lumens but I rarely use full anyway. Maybe some different QTC material may make a difference but I can't seem to find any. I will email Fraz they are wonderful to deal with.

 

[scottk2112]

That's pretty fast. Good to hear.

My new light, a QT -SS arrived yesterday. I'm just blown away by the craftsmanship and engineering. Truly an innovative feat to build something like this. I'm pretty sure it would survive a nuclear war along with cockroaches. I love this light and I'm pretty sure it won't be my only or last Fraz piece. Many thanks to Paul and Felecia!!!!

 

[speckacuda]

I know they are busy with all the elements in their lives but wish they would have a window (or something on the home page?) on their website that just showed what is currently in stock, making it easier to see what is available at that time.

You have a lot of confidence in me, my friend! I'll see what I can do.

QTC is great but I don't think it's the selling point of this light. It's the ability to very easily switch LED's and it's fail safe design. She's practically bomb proof. imo

You know how I am - if you're gonna have one, you might as well have two!!

Maybe stupid question, I swapped out the 16mm mcpcb in the QT-SS in for another 16mm with a 3000k sft-40 but I'm having no luck getting it to activate. I noticed the previous mcpcb had solder blobs that interfaced with the washers on the positive negative terminals. Is that a requirement? Or is there another way short of buying a soldering iron to get that connection to bridge to the copper on the mcpcb? It's currently making physical contact but I guess the current is insufficient ><.

Yes, you'll need some solder blobs. If you don't have a way to solder them, send them to me and I'll be happy to hook it up for you!! Shims are a bad idea, there's not too much between a short and a good connection.

Yes I tried those things. Same results. It's all good. I love the light. It's a beast and I can trust it as my only light on camping trips and night hiking as there really isn't anything that can fail in it. I just have to get used to the amount of torque required to get full lumens but I rarely use full anyway. Maybe some different QTC material may make a difference but I can't seem to find any. I will email Fraz they are wonderful to deal with.

This is an issue for a few folks, so we are working on a fix. Stay tuned, y'all!!

The lights marked "in stock" typically ship out in about a week. The "fine print" on the site says allow up to 10 days.

I waited for almost two years to finally get mine because every time there was a run it would sell out immediately, within hours. Last month my dream finally came true and I got a stainless steel and aluminum QT-L.

I can tell you it was absolutely worth the wait. The lights exceeded my expectations and I haven't been this happy with a purchase in a long time. The indestructible rugged build quality matched with the uniquely simple QTC variable brightness put FrazLabs in a league of their own.

Methinks you will be very happy when your puzzle box arrives. I am still over the moon about mine!

So glad we didn't fall short, a two-year bar is a high one to hit. Thank you so much, and so glad you took the time to share.

My new light, a QT -SS arrived yesterday. I'm just blown away by the craftsmanship and engineering. Truly an innovative feat to build something like this. I'm pretty sure it would survive a nuclear war along with cockroaches. I love this light and I'm pretty sure it won't be my only or last Fraz piece. Many thanks to Paul and Felecia!!!!

We love that you love it, and welcome to the fam!! Feel free to flip back through this thread and see how things have progressed. Many folks have been here since the beginning, and are an absolute gold mine of knowledge over the past almost 90 pages.

I can not BELIEVE we are almost at 90 pages - holy cow!! Thank you all for the love, more to come soon - we have a lot planned for 2024.

 

[scottk2112]

You have a lot of confidence in me, my friend! I'll see what I can do.


You know how I am - if you're gonna have one, you might as well have two!!


Yes, you'll need some solder blobs. If you don't have a way to solder them, send them to me and I'll be happy to hook it up for you!! Shims are a bad idea, there's not too much between a short and a good connection.


This is an issue for a few folks, so we are working on a fix. Stay tuned, y'all!!


So glad we didn't fall short, a two-year bar is a high one to hit. Thank you so much, and so glad you took the time to share.


We love that you love it, and welcome to the fam!! Feel free to flip back through this thread and see how things have progressed. Many folks have been here since the beginning, and are an absolute gold mine of knowledge over the past almost 90 pages.

I can not BELIEVE we are almost at 90 pages - holy cow!! Thank you all for the love, more to come soon - we have a lot planned for 2024.

I can't wait to see what's next. New lights on the horizon?

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Can't help posting images of these lights 'cause they are lovable.

2 of these are Nightstar induction shake lights; supposedly long lasting (better if kept in cool conditions for the longevity of the capacitor so I've read) but very low illumination.

The Zebralight there served faithfully for years, got wore out then sent back to factory but now has crazy unpredictable rare intermittent disfunction. Such is the reality of small circuit manufacture meeting a competitive price point.

This is in contrast to a FrazLabs; 'stone-cold simplicity' design refined over the years. Not trying to say it's perfect for everyone's desires, just the best at what it is.

 

[thermal guy]

I had one of them Nightstar lights.it was cool but dropped it once and reflector snapped. 😁

 

[speckacuda]

I had one of them Nightstar lights.it was cool but dropped it once and reflector snapped. 😁

If I had $1 for every time that's happened to me, I wouldn't have so much broken stuff!! There's a great song by Corb Lund called Hard On Equipment, fairly certain it's my theme song.

I can't wait to see what's next. New lights on the horizon?

Bringing back the Lumenite II, an older design that was shelved in order to ramp up QT production. The Lumenite II is one beefy chunk of flashlight, capable of taking 21700 OR 26650 batteries and a 20mm MCPCB. Finishing up testing this weekend and early week, but here's a beamshot (21700 battery, SST40 emitter, around 100ft to the fence from here).

Edit to ask - does anyone know what the requirements are to post a new thread in this section?

 

[KITROBASKIN]

"You have insufficient privileges to post threads here" when I try to post in the Vendor Display.

Have you seen that same message?

You could post a new thread in general flashlight discussion or LED flashlights then you (or I) could report it and ask Big Ed to put it in Vendor Display.

Maybe post more than one if you want.

 

[thermal guy]

Oh! I been waiting for this!!

 

[Ocelot808]

I am really excited to see the Lumenite II comeback, especially with a narrow cell 21700 body that resembles the proportions of the QT-L 18650. Less chonky than the 26650, which has been more difficult to get quality cells for lately. Which signals a trend.

I am absolutely thrilled with the performance of my QT-L Tiny Nuggets but the tinkerer in me is itching to try some alternative LEDs. SFT40, 519A, 219B, Osram W2, old XPL-HI, maybe even a Seoul 5W 365nm UV. I would really appreciate detailed feedback and opinions of others that may have already tried these or others with their results.

I would also really appreciate recommendations on the best tools for the job particularly for unscrewing the entire light engine. The narrow needle nose I have might work but I know it's not ideal. I imagine something like a 90° bent needle nose perhaps. I just want the best tool for the job so as not to risk any damage, which would be heartbreaking. If any of you could please recommend an exact make and model of tool it would be great!

Otherwise I have read that all that is necessary to remove the MCPCB hold down screws is a 7/64" hex Allen key, which I don't yet have. 7/64 is 2.78mm, so a 2.5mm (I do have) might work but I don't want to risk stripping the head. I figure a coating of Arctic Silver 5 on the back of the MCPCB is a good idea. I am very grateful to anyone that can share their experiences and lend any advice.

Lastly, can anyone advise me on how to remove the piston to replace the QTC material? I made the newbie mistake with one QT-L of overtightening to find the max output and fairly sure I oversqueezed the QTC. it no longer smoothly ramps when tightening, kinda jumps up levels but stays constant when set. Then just a smidge tighter and it's direct drive. So this one is the modding candidate now.

Thanks in advance to anyone offering their suggestions, opinions and help.

For Felicia and Paul, my sincere thanks for your persistence, determination, and hard work in materializing your dream for flashlights. You have accomplished something tangible that in my opinion has no direct competition. It's a brilliant design, beautifully executed. Count on me as a lifelong customer and loyal supporter.

 

[thermal guy]

"Lastly, can anyone advise me on how to remove the piston to replace the QTC material?"

Just give it a wack on a piece of hard rubber or other surface. Upside down. It will fall right out