Sold/Expired FS; Double, Triple (or single) XP-G Host 2200 Lumen

[sosemot728]

A double, triple XP-G R5 Host, that works with Cutter's triple xp-g boards, UCL glass Carlco optics and a taskled MAXFLEX. It will output approx 2200 Lumen (About 2000 to 1800 real lumens including all losses)

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Generation III

20% More finned surface area
15% Lighter
Support for quazzle modules
Ultra fine grain; Black sand blast finish
Better looking (Subjective!)


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Example of fine grain, sand blast finish (Generation II unit)
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Beam shots (SINGLE gili 6! @ 1.3A maxflex configuration)






Daytime White Balance (around 5200k)
ISO-100
F4
6 Seconds

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Beam shots (SINGLE gili 6! @ 1.55A L333 configuration)
- narrow clear optic (507) with XP-Es R3 driven at 1.5amp for the best throw
- wide elliptical optic (510) with XP-Gs R5 driven at 1.5smps for the low beam

Both barrels run on full (32 watts):

and now each channel running alone, this is the thrower build from 507 optic and triple XP-Es:

and this one is the elliptical pattern produced by 510 optic with XP-Gs:

ISO 200 F5 18mm 2sec (Nikon D60)

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I also wanted to post some photos of my current setup, two gili 6 using the cateye mounts.





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Overall dimensions are 40mmx70mmx42mm
Weight of housing: ~145g

Kit Contents

1x Host shell (anodized) including all THREE sections
5x Red silicone O-Rings
1x OMRON (B3WN) IP67 Sealed switch.
14x Stainless Steel M2.5-0.45 6mm screws
1x Stainless Steel M4-0.7 8mm screw
1x Length of 2-core 21AWG black tinned copper cable. Please specify length needed (if any)
1x 7.6mm Sleeved Grommet
No electronics

Gen III Base Kit price. $99
Gen III Fully assembled and tested price. $349
Assembled units Includes Lifetime, Worldwide warranty!

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Shipping

Registered Air mail (Better insurance and post-shipping tracking)
USA: $21.10 + $3 Packaging
UK: $24.70 + $3 Packaging

Regular Air mail (No insurance/tracking) I will not be responsible for any lost packages!
USA: $15.70 Airmail Post + $3 Packaging
UK: $19.30 + $3 Packaging
AUS: $12.30 Express Post platinum + $3 Packaging

Check here for other countries http://www1.auspost.com.au/pac/int_parcel.asp (Select 0.25kg to 0.5kg packed weight for a single light and 0.5kg to 0.75kg for two lights)

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Parts needed (only for kit)

Mounting - Bracket & Spacer (H-24)
http://www.cateye.com/store/parts.php?cid=2_20

1x Driver http://www.taskled.com/maxflex.html

2x 26.8mm UCL glass http://www.flashlightlens.com/str/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=ucl_lens

2x LED, choose CutterXPGMR8SER and R5 bin http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut937 You can also use any 20mm led pcb...

2x Carlco 20mm optics http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut861

1x Battery, 4x 18650 in series is recommended. To make it more efficient, its best to have an input voltage closer to the output voltage.
I recommend this pack http://www.all-battery.com/148volt-5800mahli-polypack-1.aspx

Anything that can provide 14.8v at ~2A (1300mA Maxflex)

or

7.4v at ~5A for two 1550mA LuxRC module wired is parallel

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News: Gen III will now also support quazzle's triple LED modules!
This will allow you two control each led triple independently with an external switch, and utilize higher driver currents (1.55A) than the regular Maxflex5A configuration! N.B. That this configuration is an alternative to the Maxflex configuration, but both implementations will work with the same Gen III housing!

Quazzle posted a mini guide here http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=7935964&mode=linear#post7935964

They are available for purchase here
http://www.lux-rc.com/view.php?p=content/showcase/light_engines

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MANY HOUSINGS IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP!

Also, I would really appreciate it, if after you have made the payment you send me a quick email with the following; Full name, Full delivery address, CPF username and PayPal transaction ID (Sorry for the hassle, I am working on getting a online store to get rid of the confusion)

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Paypal address is or PM me for AUS direct deposit details.

Also my regular email is if you have any questions, please use this one!

 

[paulr]

Wow, that is pretty neat. 2200 lm = around 20 watts? Can it handle the thermals? Is the idea that the bflex board goes inside the host, or do wires come out the back to an external controller? Would there be one bflex for each of the 3-led clusters? I had been thinking of trying to make a flashlight controller from an Arduino Duemilanove board, but it sure looks like the bflex does just about everything. I wonder how feasible it is to reprogram it.

Edit: is there any provision for a UI (e.g. pushbuttons) on the host? It's not clear from the drawings if they would have to be external (e.g. mounted on power pack).

 

[sosemot728]

Wow, that is pretty neat. 2200 lm = around 20 watts? Can it handle the thermals? Is the idea that the bflex board goes inside the host, or do wires come out the back to an external controller? Would there be one bflex for each of the 3-led clusters? I had been thinking of trying to make a flashlight controller from an Arduino Duemilanove board, but it sure looks like the bflex does just about everything. I wonder how feasible it is to reprogram it.

Edit: is there any provision for a UI (e.g. pushbuttons) on the host? It's not clear from the drawings if they would have to be external (e.g. mounted on power pack).

Doing some rough calculations on heat-sink efficiency, it should be able to handle it if the light is in motion (i.e. forced convection) The size of the unit is more than double the size of other similar single triple units.

The Bflex is mounted inside the unit, one Bflex for all six LED's (with a minimum supply voltage of 20.9v)

Yes the pushbutton control is external.

 

[paulr]

Arggh, I got one of those XPal 70wh external laptop batteries from woot (19 volt) and was hoping to use that to run the light. Anyway I can configure the leds to run at slightly lower input voltage, like with a 3S2P setup or even with two BFlexes? Is there some kind of rail on the bottom of the shell, to fit into the Cygolite mount? I will have to think about a DIY power supply if it really needs 20+ volts.

 

[sosemot728]

Is there some kind of rail on the bottom of the shell, to fit into the Cygolite mount?

Cygolight square mount will screw onto base of light (it is not shown)

 

[sosemot728]

No-one is interested?

 

[paulr]

No-one is interested?

I'm tempted. I had been playing with the idea of building a lantern-style flashlight mostly as a software programming exercise (I'm fooling around with a new programming language designed for such things), and that was the first application I thought of for the host, but then I'd have to figure out what I was getting into in terms of driver electronics, power, etc. I'd mount it in or on a box-like enclosure containing the laptop battery and UI (I was thinking of having rotary knobs to control brightness). Of course it looks great as a pre-designed bike light too, with the bflex board. Are you planning to develop the idea into a production bike light?

 

[sosemot728]

Are you planning to develop the idea into a production bike light?

That depends on this prototype assembly, and users response to the design.

 

[aurum]

-> http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=92 I think there would be some people who are interested.

 

[sosemot728]

-> http://www.mtb-news.de/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=92 I think there would be some people who are interested.

Mein Deutsch ist sehr rostig

 

[Hack On Wheels]

Arggh, I got one of those XPal 70wh external laptop batteries from woot (19 volt) and was hoping to use that to run the light. Anyway I can configure the leds to run at slightly lower input voltage, like with a 3S2P setup or even with two BFlexes? Is there some kind of rail on the bottom of the shell, to fit into the Cygolite mount? I will have to think about a DIY power supply if it really needs 20+ volts.

You can set up 2 b-flex drivers in a master/slave configuration, but not sure if there would be space for that in the housing. The other option would seem to be running the two triples in parallel for the 3S2P setup you mentioned. The catch here is that then they would be seeing approximately 500mA through each emitter on Max, assuming 1A is still the maximum current level for the b-flex.

@ matthewm,

It's a nice looking housing, but unfortunately I have some MC-Es and optics to use. I've never tried a remote switch setup before, but a lot of people do seem to like them, what type of button/switch will you use for that?

One question about the design, do you feel the number of bolts holding the front and rear face plates on is on the high side? I can relate to the desire for perfect sealing, but it strikes me that the aluminum will be relatively rigid and should seal well in spite of any marginally unbalanced forces from o-ring compression. To date, my designs (none produced yet) have always had a minimum of 6 bolts for the front plate, but it strikes me that 4 would still do the trick. [If you'd rather not have discussion about design in this sales thread, please let me know.]

Good luck with making these!

 

[sosemot728]

You can set up 2 b-flex drivers

One question about the design, do you feel the number of bolts holding the front and rear face plates on is on the high side? I can relate to the desire for perfect sealing.

Using two bflex drivers defeats the purpose of having small dimensions. 3S2P would increase lumen/watt efficiency, but would reduce overall light output.

The machine bolts look large on the model, but they are only M2-0.4 size! (I will be using the hardest type of silicone o-ring) The number may reduce in future revisions. But I am a sucker for overkill, plus I like the 'industrial' look. I think the rear will stay the same though.

I have another design thread here. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=257955

 

[sosemot728]

I'm about to pull the trigger on the prototype for machining. The drawings have been approved by the machinist.

I have 8 units prototype units to sell.

 

[divine]

This product would probably have much more interest in the bike forum.

I don't know the rules about cross posting very well. I don't know if you can post a notice in there. :thinking:

 

[Hack On Wheels]

Using two bflex drivers defeats the purpose of having small dimensions. 3S2P would increase lumen/watt efficiency, but would reduce overall light output.

The machine bolts look large on the model, but they are only M2-0.4 size! (I will be using the hardest type of silicone o-ring) The number may reduce in future revisions. But I am a sucker for overkill, plus I like the 'industrial' look. I think the rear will stay the same though.

I have another design thread here. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=257955

Yes and yes; but I can't think of any other driver setup that would work well/better with the 19V power pack in question. :shrug:

Smallest bolts I've found locally are M3, and those are neither hex nor flat heads. M2s are sweet! Just have to be a bit more careful with your tap for those. The look of a higher bolt count is definitely awesome; nice renderings in that other thread too! I'll try to direct any further chatter to that thread though.

 

[Metatron]

i am in, just like ur thoughts on a battery holder mate

 

[sosemot728]

i am in, just like ur thoughts on a battery holder mate

I was planning on using a single 22.2v lipo pack and using velcro to attach it to the underside of the stem. The pack size is quite small.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turnigy-6S-22-2V-5000mAh-25C-Lipo-Battery-T-Rex-600_W0QQitemZ330395984986QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ced22a45a#ht_1129wt_960

 

[paulr]

Using two bflex drivers defeats the purpose of having small dimensions. 3S2P would increase lumen/watt efficiency, but would reduce overall light output.

The bflexes are pretty small, and I think some minor size increase to the housing can be tolerable, given how big it already is, and the size of the outboard battery and switch system it will have to be attached to. Using two bflexes also has the attraction of being able to control the two clusters independently--for example, to have a high and low beam like a car. We're talking about a bike light brighter than most automotive headlight systems and so it really should adhere to road conventions of not blinding oncoming drivers, etc.

If the laptop battery isn't usable I guess the next step would be a DIY multi-cell RC style pack along with a balancing hobby charger, a complex and expensive and possibly dangerous combination. These universal laptop batteries are widely available and getting more popular and they recharge with commodity laptop power bricks, so being able to use one would be a good feature for the finished system to have. The one I bought is here: http://www.woot.com/blog/viewentry.aspx?id=9154

 

[Metatron]

I was planning on using a single 22.2v lipo pack and using velcro to attach it to the underside of the stem. The pack size is quite small.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turnigy-6S-22-2V-5000mAh-25C-Lipo-Battery-T-Rex-600_W0QQitemZ330395984986QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4ced22a45a#ht_1129wt_960

ok, what would the costs be for a full working light, inclusive of clamp and battery kit as described above?

 

[sosemot728]

ok, what would the costs be for a full working light, inclusive of clamp and battery kit as described above?

This is where things get difficult. I would offer a full kit, but as this is just a prototype run. It is difficult for me to carry ALL costs. There will be (many) more production runs, soon.

Matt