How To: McClicky Switch disassembly

[peter yetman]

When you take the thing apart, you'll find that the switch plunger that sticks out fits to a tiny ratcheted plastic pin (like in a Parker Biro) inside the the body. there's a waher on the end of the pin that contacts with the metal ring that circles the switch. I reckon if you superglue the two pins together the ratcheting will (obviously) stop and you'll just get momentary.
If I get a chance this week I'll have a go. It's a switch that I've never bothered to reassemble, so it was an easy find.
I'll take some pics and put them up when I get the chance.
P

 

[NH Lumens]

Yes, just took one apart and had a look. I'm going to try to find a drill bit that will fit in the body where the plunger rides and ream out the three splines that operate the ratcheting pieces. I will then epoxy the two ratcheting pieces together in the off (shortest) position to make sure they can't move. That will retain the full spring-loaded travel of the switch, but with no clicky.

 

[peter yetman]

Didn't see the three splines, I glued the two bits together in the off position, but it gave me permanent on. The end of the plunger was not sticking out as far as it did before I did the gluing, so your idea with the splines is the way to go.
Let me know how you get on.
P

 

[Modernflame]

Well, at least it was an inexpensive experiment. Kudos for offering your switch as a guinea pig. I'd love to see some photos of this process.

 

[peter yetman]

It's all a bit tiny for pictures, I'll put some up if I can.
P

 

[NH Lumens]

I have a macro lens for my DSLR so I will do my best to document the process.

 

[NH Lumens]

Update

Success! Very simple process;

1. Disassemble switch as shown in the beginning of this thread. No need to remove the battery spring.

2. With the button/ratcheting assembly removed, inside the switch housing where the button is installed, you will see three splines 120 degrees apart;

If you look closely at the housing in the photo above (piece on the far left), you can see two of the three splines inside the channel where the button rides. These three splines need to be removed.

3. The easiest way to do so is with a 17/64" drill bit. Simply hold the drill bit in a pair of Channel Lock pliers and then take the housing and turn it on the drill bit by hand. It doesn't take much to remove the splines.

4. Reassemble switch and reinstall - you will now have a smooth operating momentary-only switch with no click or constant-on operation.

Since McClicky switches can be found online for under $10 it makes sense to buy a spare in case you want to revert back to clicky operation.

 

[peter yetman]

Oh, well done. Sorry, too busy to play this week.
Is there no need to glue the two bits of the plunger together?
So glad you got the result you wanted.
P

 

[NH Lumens]

No need for any glue - just ream out the splines!

 

[peter yetman]

Tremendous, thank you.
P

 

[marco.weiss]

Great mod NH. Thank you.

 

[msrider]

Need help for my Mcclicky switch tailcap of my Malkoff MD4

I got a Malkoff MD4 from eBay, it's in good condition however parts of the clicky tailcap came off … it's should be a Mcclicky switch, I disassembled it and believe all parts are there nothing missed. I tried to re-assemble it but it's loose. I have no idea how to get it tightly attach and would appreciate help. Thanks !

Following is a youtube link shows my problem.
https://youtu.be/UZmoayIO_c0

 

[McGizmo]

There are four plastic posts that come up from the threaded half of the switch that press into corresponding holes on the battery spring half of the switch and these are a tight fit holding the switch halves together. In your switch, these posts seem to have been sheared off?!?! In short, you have a broken switch component.

 

[msrider]

Oh I see, anyway thanks a lot for the comment.