Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad

[Fireclaw18]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

Yup sounds like a teardown is necessary.

Maybe some debris between the contact ring on the switch or driver and the body tube?

 

[Skylumen]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

Thorough clean fixed it. Back in the game.

 

[Skylumen]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

Which one do you prefer? Guess which one has my vote!
I will share my thoughts soon.

 

[Lumenwolf]

I love both [emoji7][emoji7][emoji7]

 

[scout24]

Loving the triple W1 beamshot. 👍

 

[OnlyownEnergizer250lumen]

I think I prefer the D4, when comparing W1 quad D4 VS. W1 triple FW3A.

D4 W1 Quad = 2500 Lumen 54k Lux 28mm head
FW3A W1 Triple = 2000 Lumen 45k Lux 25mm head

For the minimal size difference, that seems like a very notable difference in beam intensity and hotspot size. D4 w1 quad bigger hotspot aND more intense?

Although the FW3A looks cooler IMO, I'll be using it in the dark haha. I prefer side switch and D4 solid fit in the hand, the FW3A looks less comfortable to grip, and unless holding tactically (few EDC reasons to for me), the tail switch seems awkward to me.

D4 gets my vote if comparing W1s. Possible to get a D4 triple W1 for a more direct comparison?

EDIT: Dont forget the glorious 18350 body tube for the D4! Even more impressive in that tiny size. Does the TI/Copper body have the 18350 option?

 

[dotCPF]

I think I prefer the D4, when comparing W1 quad D4 VS. W1 triple FW3A.


D4 gets my vote if comparing W1s. Possible to get a D4 triple W1 for a more direct comparison?

Neither will last at max to be really usable statistics TBH. Both will step down immediately and continue dropping until they both are in the few-hundred lumen area.

The FW3A is the triple D4. That's really the largest difference between them regarding the business end.... You'd just end up with the same stats, minus maybe heat-syncing. At least assuming use of the same optics.

 

[id30209]

TK advised in her post that first thing everybody should do is to run thermal regulation setup because FW3 comes from factory set to 40deg only...


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[OnlyownEnergizer250lumen]

Neither will last at max to be really usable statistics TBH. Both will step down immediately and continue dropping until they both are in the few-hundred lumen area.

The FW3A is the triple D4. That's really the largest difference between them regarding the business end.... You'd just end up with the same stats, minus maybe heat-syncing. At least assuming use of the same optics.

Wouldn't a triple D4 mean larger optics and more throw? i.e. 60k lux and 2k lumens? That was the point of the comparison, assuming different optics in the larger body, and potentially being driven harder. (Comparing each LED quad specs of FW3A vs D4, there is a serious difference in output.)

I don't need more than 10 seconds at max lol, basic office job with no actual use requirements other than sheer "oo's and awe's" when night time falls. Just a toy to out-spec my old toys.

 

[noboneshotdog]

I think I prefer the D4, when comparing W1 quad D4 VS. W1 triple FW3A.

D4 W1 Quad = 2500 Lumen 54k Lux 28mm head
FW3A W1 Triple = 2000 Lumen 45k Lux 25mm head

For the minimal size difference, that seems like a very notable difference in beam intensity and hotspot size. D4 w1 quad bigger hotspot aND more intense?

Although the FW3A looks cooler IMO, I'll be using it in the dark haha. I prefer side switch and D4 solid fit in the hand, the FW3A looks less comfortable to grip, and unless holding tactically (few EDC reasons to for me), the tail switch seems awkward to me.

D4 gets my vote if comparing W1s. Possible to get a D4 triple W1 for a more direct comparison?

EDIT: Dont forget the glorious 18350 body tube for the D4! Even more impressive in that tiny size. Does the TI/Copper body have the 18350 option?

+1 I think that the D4 probably has a better build quality more heft and will outperform the lumintop. I agree with the desire for a side switch instead of a rear. The only thing that the lumintop has on the D4 is its handsome looks. Just another opinion....

 

[twistedraven]

I do recall Vinh liking tailclickies, so I think he prefers the FW3A.

 

[sygyzy]

I am super excited you are modding these. I have a question which I think you answered before but is still very confusing to me. You keep using the term W1 and W2 to refer to emitter types but I still don't know what that means and it doesn't seem to be clearly explained in your product pages. The other emitter choices are clearly stated (i.e. "Cree XP-L HI 3D(NW 5000K)") but I am not sure what W1 and W2 refers to. Can you tell me what emitters these are?

I think I am pretty knowledgeable of the different emitter types but I find these shorthands pretty difficult to keep up with. For example, a choice is "HI 5000K V4" which took a bit of Googling to figure out it's a Cree XPL-HI 5000K tint but not sure what V4 refers to.

 

[id30209]

W1 (Osram White 1mm chip - less intensity and more throw)
https://led4power.com/product/new-osram-kw-cslnm1-tg-1mm2-throw-king-bare/


W2 (Osram White 2mm chip - more intensity and less throw)
https://led4power.com/product/osram-kw-cslpm1-tg-2mm2-throw-bare/


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[dotCPF]

Wouldn't a triple D4 mean larger optics and more throw? i.e. 60k lux and 2k lumens? That was the point of the comparison, assuming different optics in the larger body, and potentially being driven harder. (Comparing each LED quad specs of FW3A vs D4, there is a serious difference in output.)

I don't need more than 10 seconds at max lol, basic office job with no actual use requirements other than sheer "oo's and awe's" when night time falls. Just a toy to out-spec my old toys.

I think you are missing the point that the triple optic that would be used in the D4 is the same exact triple optic that could be used in the FW3a.

You can also compare the Stock Triple FW3A w/ XP-L 5k vs Quad FW3A w/ XP-L 5k in Vinh's GIF he posted- that is effectively what you are looking for just with XP-L HIs. These differences are small, even at max, and that won't last.

 

[dotCPF]

I do recall Vinh liking tailclickies, so I think he prefers the FW3A.

That is my vote as well. I also recall him preferring triples, but that could have been a builders-thing.

 

[Skylumen]

I enjoy this discussion between these 2 lights. If you have both I would like to hear from you. Again do you guys want me to compare these two in a video or just pictures and type out here?

 

[knucklegary]

Whatever is easier for you works for me👌

 

[Fireclaw18]

I enjoy this discussion between these 2 lights. If you have both I would like to hear from you. Again do you guys want me to compare these two in a video or just pictures and type out here?

Both the D4 and the FW3A are great lights. They're both very small and compact for 18650s.

Comparing the stock D4 to the stock FW3A here are some advantages and disadvantages of each:

Emisar D4
+ Better heatsinking
+ Bigger selection of body colors, textures and materials, and LEDs.
+ Higher output due to extra LED
+ Sideswitch provides a more secure grip when using light's controls.
+ Multiple battery tube configurations
+ Mechanical tailcap lockout + electronic lockout.
+ Antiroll design even when clip is not installed.
+ Lexel aux LED board available now.
- Protruding sideswitch makes the D4 prone to accidental pocket activation. Can burn a hole through your pants if not locked out (this happened to 2 of my pants pockets... oops!)
- Locking out a light to prevent accidental activation removes much of the convenience of having a pocket EDC.
- RampingIOS electronic lockout is 6 clicks

FW3A
+Elegant design
+Metal tailcap switch should last longer than typical rubber boot. The D4's button boot can wear out.
+Tailcap switches tend to be more resistant to accidental pocket activation than the D4's protruding sideswitch.
+ Anduril firmware has many more features than RampingIOS.
+ FW3A has a triple-channel FET+8+1 driver. This provides much more regulation than the D4's dual-channel FET+1 driver.
+ Default top of ramp is set at 8x7135 (2.8 amps)... bright, but not bright enough to burn a hole in your pants pocket. Even if the light accidentally turns on in the pocket from the button being held down by your pocket stuffing it probably won't destroy anything, unlike the D4.
+ weighs less than a D4 with 18650 tube.
+ Narrower, which may be better for EDC pocket carry.
+ Anduril's electronic lockout is 4 clicks.
+ Lexel aux LED board in design phase, but not available yet.
- No mechanical lockout possible. Electronic lockout only.

Of course the above just refers to the lights in their stock configurations. Both lights can be modded and the issue with the D4 accidentally activating in the pocket can be solved.

The FW3A is much newer so fewer options are currently available for it. There is a possibility that other versions of the FW3A will come out. Neal (distributor of the FW3A) mentioned that he would check into the possibility of copper and titanium FW3As.

 

[OnlyownEnergizer250lumen]

I enjoy this discussion between these 2 lights. If you have both I would like to hear from you. Again do you guys want me to compare these two in a video or just pictures and type out here?

A video with a small segment about the preferred thrower specs/patterns would be wonderful!

Videos (improv, unedited, raw) show your emotions around a light much better than words on a white background can. We can hear and see your excitement or disapproval of various elements to these lights, which sway us more than paper comparisons.

Just my two cents, do as you wish Vinh!

 

[dotCPF]

I enjoy this discussion between these 2 lights. If you have both I would like to hear from you. Again do you guys want me to compare these two in a video or just pictures and type out here?

There is a LOT of buzz about the FW3A right now. IDK, it could go either way as a result. Your opinions on the matter are very much interesting, but I'd rather see a video of you tearing down an Eagletac, or anything about Genesis!!!!! DYING to see what that turns out as.