Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad

[Steeldog]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

Individual.

Do you guys still want individual thread for lights? If not I will just post it all in the lounge.

 

[Keitho]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

Amazing, same dimensions as the SC64, only 15g heavier, efficient regulation up to 8x7135, with a tail switch and a well thought-out pocket clip.

Anyone have thoughts on the 219b vs SST20 versions for a high CRI 4000-4500K? The grail for me is an efficient high CRI version that doesn't have a harsh transition from hotspot to spill...

 

[Skylumen]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

Amazing, same dimensions as the SC64, only 15g heavier, efficient regulation up to 8x7135, with a tail switch and a well thought-out pocket clip.

Anyone have thoughts on the 219b vs SST20 versions for a high CRI 4000-4500K? The grail for me is an efficient high CRI version that doesn't have a harsh transition from hotspot to spill...

Frosted lens will be best for no harsh transitions

 

[Skylumen]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

These W1/W2 Triple specific help gives us the amazing throw in these new FW3Avn.

 

[knucklegary]

Re: Lumintop/TLF/BLF FW3Avn - Most Compact Triple/Quad R

Just snap 'em off like a Hershey bar?

 

[Agpp]

Just passing an idea:
KawiBoy1428 at the other place has also done a quad. But he widened the bezel opening and says it works better.

 

[Skylumen]

Everything below is just my personal opinion. Please take it for what it's worth.

D4 VS FWA3

I will refer to D4 as D and FWA3 as F

1. Due to the slender body F seems much smaller and compact VS D. This gives an elegant look but does have design cue from HDS. Slender body also = less mass for heat sinking. D has very little mass to maintain its peak output and F has even less. I always prefer a bit stubbier while keeping length to a minimum. Stubbier lights with thicker walls ads to quality feeling of quality.
2. F seems to have thicker LED MCPCB shelf which is plus
3. D design is more original despite being mostly conventional.
4. Being a triple the head is also smaller. Trade off some lumen for throw. However more LEDS at lower drive levels will usually be more efficient than less LEDs driven to the same output level. I like both optics equally.
5. F side button placement and rear switch placement is of course subjective and depends on your use. However D button is more reliable but less aesthetically pleasing being rubber VS metal. F button although work well does need to be approach with firm pressure and preferably perpendicular to the pad. Approaching from an angle you might get a click with audible confirmation yet no light activation.
6. I personally prefer tail switch due to the way I handle my lights but I LOVE a light that tail stand as nightstand ceiling bounce is one of my main use for any light. Side switch will allow for easier mode changes VS a rear switch in this aspect.
7. Both lights Ramping UI are great but neither have quick or instant access to Strobe or momentary Turbo if that is something you need.
8. F pocket clip body to tail cap retention is superior to D pop on clip.
9. Knurling adds a utilitarian look and operation but take away from elegant. D large square knurling is a tiny bit more grippy than F's and are place appropriately on the body and thus retaining good looks. F small square knurling are less grippy and are place on th body in way I find less attractive.
10. D has effective cooling fin that looks good. Cooling fins can take away from elegance when applied excessively. F lack of fins and low mass are big hits to heat handling.
11. Neither has a metal scallop/finned bezel to keep cost and length down.
12. F clicky sounds rough and unrefined
13. D anodized thread allow for physical lockout. F non-anodized thread = Electronic lockout only.
14. F Driver is superior to D by having more current regulated 7135 chips for lower levels.
15. F lack of any prints on the body = great elegance but make it very OEM like.
16. Both light Anodizing are supar when compared to Fenix, zebralight or Surefire. I consider D18 and Acebeam anodizing 1 touch above F & D but 1 below the three leaders mentioned above.
17. F is easier to service with all parts easily teardown as all parts are only held together with threads . D button is pressed in is not removable. Driver is glued in. D spring PCB in tail cap also glued in. In this case, serviceable also equal more reliability issues as thing can fall out of place such as a loose driver retaining ring or tail cap lacking pressure to spring PCB.
18. Both D and F has no way to attach a lanyard if a clip is not installed. If clip is installed F will have a better lanyard attachment point as clip cannot be pull off of light.
19. Both light step down TOO quick from Turbo due to crazy performance and minimal mass.
20. D is $35(Used to be $40) and F is $49 in its cheapest configuration. D4vn with quad W1 is $120. FW3Avn with Triple W1 is $115 .

I was a never a fan of the D4vn and I am not even sure why until this day. I's a well design light with crazy performance. Maybe it's the light weight or the thin anodization that adds to the cheap feeling. I too feel the same way regarding the FWA3vn. I am very impressed with the performance and length of the light despite having a rear switch. So I do like both of these light equally in many sense but will appreciate the FWA3vn a tiny bit more only because I am GREATLY bias to rear switch. However if we bring in the discontinued D4vn with a Ti body and Copper head then I would have to go with the D4vn. (This is the reason why I am a fan of the less popular E14vn and S03vn Quad alternatives with its copper head) Its looks and function are simply superior. Ti bezel and body keeps it lightweight yet strong to cope with rough use. The copper head/Light engine is excellent for heat sinking and is especially so if we solder bond the copper MCPCB to the copper head itself. It would be one large chuck of continuous mass to suck the heat from those over driven LEDs. So where does this leave me?

Please give me 6000L and 60kcd in a ultra compact package, runs on 21700, has a large solid copper head with crazy thick shelf, and may be a polished Ti body. Yeah even throw in the AUX LEDs to help with business ;-). Hmmmmm…..










Oh and there is an ALL COPPER version too! Can't wait!

 

[b8llzblue]

Wow nice copper. I have the same general thoughts like you Vinh. I love the e07vn as well. But the heat sinking even on that bigger light is still not enough to handle the crazy lumens. The light gets hot quick. Now I dunno with that copper... when is that gonna be available to us?

 

[Skylumen]

Wow nice copper. I have the same general thoughts like you Vinh. I love the e07vn as well. But the heat sinking even on that bigger light is still not enough to handle the crazy lumens. The light gets hot quick. Now I dunno with that copper... when is that gonna be available to us?

The 20th ;-)

 

[OnlyownEnergizer250lumen]

I love the E07 but it's not pocketable in dress clothes, which is what I wear 7 days a week... so I have to remain with the D4/FW3A/S03.. nothing over 30mm is acceptable sadly.

 

[Skylumen]

I love the E07 but it's not pocketable in dress clothes, which is what I wear 7 days a week... so I have to remain with the D4/FW3A/S03.. nothing over 30mm is acceptable sadly.

FWA3vn is the way to go then

 

[Nichia!]

FWA3vn is the way to go then

There is new e07 in fully copper??

 

[Skylumen]

There is new e07 in fully copper??

On the 20th yes

 

[Fireclaw18]

13. D anodized thread allow for physical lockout. F non-anodized thread = Electronic lockout only.

The FW3A can be locked out at the head by unscrewing the head 1/8 turn.

That 1/8 turn is enough to break the connection between the driver and the switch rendering the button inoperable.

This isn't a true physical lockout since the driver is still powered even if the switch doesn't work so there is still parasitic drain. However, Toykeeper mentioned on BLF that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is very low ... below the self-discharge of an 18650 and would take 10 years to drain a full cell.

In short, slightly unscrewing the head of the FW3A acts like a physical lockout even though technically it isn't one.

 

[Skylumen]

The FW3A can be locked out at the head by unscrewing the head 1/8 turn.

That 1/8 turn is enough to break the connection between the driver and the switch rendering the button inoperable.

This isn't a true physical lockout since the driver is still powered even if the switch doesn't work so there is still parasitic drain. However, Toykeeper mentioned on BLF that the parasitic drain on the FW3A is very low ... below the self-discharge of an 18650 and would take 10 years to drain a full cell.

In short, slightly unscrewing the head of the FW3A acts like a physical lockout even though technically it isn't one.

Agree

 

[twistedraven]

I've been holding out for the all copper E07 version. I'm sure it will be wildly heavy and it'll burn one's hand real fast, but gotta have it.

 

[Skylumen]

I've been holding out for the all copper E07 version. I'm sure it will be wildly heavy and it'll burn one's hand real fast, but gotta have it.

Yup All copper is non sense but gotta have one! LOL

The Ti+ Copper should be just right for me thhough.
Ok So I got way more use with the FW3Avn W1 and IU love it more and more. SO nice to have a tiny 18650 light with a triple that throws!!

 

[OnlyownEnergizer250lumen]

Ok So I got way more use with the FW3Avn W1 and IU love it more and more. SO nice to have a tiny 18650 light with a triple that throws!!

I know the two don't compare and are of different leagues, but which is more WOW IMPRESSIVE to form factor ratio? The FW3A W1 Or the Emisar D18 W1? If I could only buy one...?

 

[Skylumen]

I know the two don't compare and are of different leagues, but which is more WOW IMPRESSIVE to form factor ratio? The FW3A W1 Or the Emisar D18 W1? If I could only buy one...?

To Me...

D18vn. D18vn one of the best flashlight ever made.
FW3A a great flashlight. Especially so for the money. But its not one of the best ever made.

 

[OnlyownEnergizer250lumen]

I know I should care about build quality and internals... but the kid in me screams... SPECS! SPECS! SPECS! Lol. As a techy, it's hard to allow internals, reliability, and functionality to influence a purchase when you're only in the game to experience the latest and greatest power/output/throw available at this point in time.

Your opinion however, while it does strongly consider build quality, etc, is highly valued due to the sheer number of lights you've worked with. Vinh likes it? I must like it too!

FW3A might be the best size/output/throw ratio in a triple ever made to this date, right? That answer would solely determine my purchase, regardless of inconvenient UI, quality control (if I have to buy 3 because the first two break, doesn't matter I'm here for the numbers!) etc.

I know my opinion is probably the minority, since I would imagine most flashlight enthusiasts purchase for real use purposes as opposed to white wall hunting and driving out to open fields at night to laugh and excite about performance to size ratio, unconcerned about short runtimes.

Edit for clarification: My degenerate species is the kind who buys useless paperweight 10lb tungsten cubes for 500$ to see my coworkers in sheer amazement at how something so small (2.5x2.5x2.5) can be so insanely heavy (approximate density of gold.)