Moddoolar Triple Wasp Cooling Head and Glow System

[MMD]

Just checked and mine is about 3s on 3s off. I let the low voltage cutoff hit on a known low battery and the 219s turned off and the red led continued blinking no change in cycle. This was on one primary cell.

 

[Grizzman]

When wearing sunglasses, I can see the slow 3 second blink on medium from dual or single Li-Ions. I might be able to see it on high, but it's hard to tell....need darker shades?

 

[richstag]

Cool let me know please. I have most of the 18650's on the market I could try out too. Maybe oveready has an idea about the multiple cell behavior on this. Does the chip consider 3.55v low? I know I do. I pull my DD lights cells around 3.7-3.8.

Is the red indicator on for three seconds, off for three seconds, on for three seconds.....or faster?

I've got NCR18650B and NCR18650BD, and Samsung 25Rs available for testing.....and nothing better to do.

I didn't notice the blinking in the vid. Sorry.

 

[richstag]

Weld mask

When wearing sunglasses, I can see the slow 3 second blink on medium from dual or single Li-Ions. I might be able to see it on high, but it's hard to tell....need darker shades?

 

[MMD]

I couldn't see it with shades. What was your battery charge?

I may have to get out the eagle eye on this one.

When wearing sunglasses, I can see the slow 3 second blink on medium from dual or single Li-Ions. I might be able to see it on high, but it's hard to tell....need darker shades?

 

[Grizzman]

Slow blink visible from a single B, BD, and 25R, all resting at 4.1 volts or slightly above. Thanks to the C tail and an extension, I can test with two of them, and will report here.....after I eat a brownie.

Slow blinky confirmed on low and medium from dual unprotected and IMR. It sure seems like a proper function indicator.

 

[richstag]

I put fully charged 18350's in before I left for work. Red led still flashing.

 

[recDNA]

Hasn't anybody checked with Overready to get authoratative answer of functionality?

 

[IsaacL]

Hasn't anybody checked with Overready to get authoratative answer of functionality?

Plus one! Honestly, I've been reading this conversation and I'm still totally lost. What I can tell you is that "if" something's wrong with your light, you should send Dan an email. Oveready will make it right. This ongoing discussion doesn't seem to be helping. Just my .02

 

[ElectronGuru]

Plus one! Honestly, I've been reading this conversation and I'm still totally lost. What I can tell you is that "if" something's wrong with your light, you should send Dan an email. Oveready will make it right. This ongoing discussion doesn't seem to be helping. Just my .02

It is rather a headful, let me see if I can iron a few things out...

Why in low mode does it switch from two levels about every second and a half. Both nearly the same low but its definitely going between two levels.

This is not normal. Please contact us if you have not already, we'll get you fixed up.

Is there a tailcap that allows tail standing?

Triad is my favorite.

Can you program this to come on by memory? Not just next in sequence, but where it was left last?

We don't have programability and can't stock both with and without memory and many of our customers need 100% confidence in first mode behavior - no memory. But we are working on more options.

At these brightness levels, a Medium-High-Low switching scheme would be my preferred method. 1300 Lumens can be startlingly bright, and is more than i need, especially when used indoors. I'd like to have the medium level on my first press.

I was asking about mode memory but mode sequencing is another good idea.

It would be nice to be able to select the latching time before a particular level is memorized.

Deciding on a latch time for hybrid mode is a big production decision. If it can be set during assembly, that goes to whatever the customer needs. Thank you.

I noticed when using one primary a slight shift in brightness on low. I noticed it was at the same time the red LED turns on. I was thinking the red indicating LED was robbing some power and dimming the main emitters.

Red light operation is 'advisory' and can be ignored unless the light isn't doing what you want and you are looking for causes. Then it can point to battery, heat, as a cause.

Power draw in miniscule, less than the difference between our boards effeciency and that of most triple drivers.

Program wise I have always liked the SureFire U2 the best. It would be cool if you could design a ring that is much more understated and incognito. Not plastic but I think they work off magnetics? In addition there could be a boost to high full click from any brightness and a hold click for strobe.

As we move forward with the Wasp head, we want to maintain compatiblity of the board with triple drop ins. This means limiting ourselves to power interface control. A head based interface is theoretically possible, but is beyond the scope of behaviors we are considering.

Pulled the AW's out. 3.55v each. That's probably why. I bet they need a few cycles. Didn't expect them to drain so quickly. Only used the light for a few minutes total.

Sorry for the confusion. All AW cells are stored and shipped at storage voltage, about 4.0v. This reduces stress and maximizes longevity. They are not ready to fully perform until run through a normal/full charge mode.

Cool let me know please. I have most of the 18650's on the market I could try out too. Maybe oveready has an idea about the multiple cell behavior on this. Does the chip consider 3.55v low? I know I do. I pull my DD lights cells around 3.7-3.8.

The thing with IMR is less about the particiular voltage than time spent at that voltage. So a few minutes at 3.0 volts is less stressfull than a few weeks at 3.5v. But here are the numbers:

low voltage reduction (10% at 3.4v per cell)
low voltage cutoff (0% at 3.0v per cell)

 

[richstag]

Thanks. I did charge the cells on vp1 charger before running the light. I tried a bunch of different cells, they all blink red. Thanks for the help.

Yeah, I have been on a lot of forums. I saw nothing wrong with what I did. I didn't think it was an actual problem. I was also used to McGizmo tech support which is practically forum based right here on cpf.

Now I will email oveready since I know it's a problem that could not be worked out easily.

On a knife forum we help each other and everything is fairly open. No bashing manufacturers, just trying to weed out simple things as to not have to bother the manufacturer with it. Just open. Thought it was the same here.

 

[IsaacL]

I wasn't criticizing, but I was pointing out that Oveready stands by their products and that a "home fix" isn't likely even after lengthy discussion. I'm all for user-level fixes but this seems to be an system-level problem. If battery swaps aren't working then I don't see how you're prepared to fix it unless you have the ability to flash firmware...

Like Dan has mentioned, the red indicator blinks when the light is on. It only displays without the LED's when there's a problem (i.e. low voltage or heat protection). Power consumption is very low.

 

[Grizzman]

Fixing an issue was not the intent. We were trying to determine if an issue exists....and whether we should be seeing the slow blinking indicator.

 

[F89]

Fixing an issue was not the intent. We were trying to determine if an issue exists....and whether we should be seeing the slow blinking indicator.

Not sure if it helps as my experience isn't with the wasp but on both of my Oveready P60 drop ins (most recent versions, Nichia 219 and XPG2 4000K) the little red light is always slowly blinking away while the light is running (under normal operation with full battery and cool temp etc).
I only see it blinking on low, doesn't appear to do it on high or medium. I've never got them hot enough to see any other action but once or twice I've had the batteries low enough to reduce to low output.

 

[IsaacL]

The blinking indicator is normal operation for the LUX-RC board, unless the LED's aren't lit. If it's by itself then thermal or low voltage protection has kicked in. The red light is not even visible unless your staring into the head on low...or you're wearing goggles...

As far as issues go, I was referring to Richstag's comment about flickering/mode switches, which is not normal. The indicator light is not an "issue".

 

[richstag]

Either way thanks to the guys that helped me figure out what is going on. I emailed oveready. Still not sure if there is an actual problem. By fix I meant easy things. Like try different batteries, cycle them, clean contact points (not that they were dirty but at least check).

Thanks again.

 

[IsaacL]

Either way thanks to the guys that helped me figure out what is going on. I emailed oveready. Still not sure if there is an actual problem. By fix I meant easy things. Like try different batteries, cycle them, clean contact points (not that they were dirty but at least check).

Thanks again.

Going back to your comment about the knife forums, this reminded me a bit of the old Strider "lock-rock" threads on the USN. Good times, good times.

Again, you absolutely did nothing wrong. Asking about a potential problem is a good start. I just happened to check back after most of the discussion had transpired.

Agreed! Batteries and contacts are important to troubleshoot. Unfortunately there's not much you can do, electrically speaking, besides changing out the cells. If there's a problem with the electronics, it's either hardware or software related and requires specialized equipment to work on.

The "red light" gets a ton of attention here. Here's the skinny, the indicator or "beacon" blinks when the light is ON. This is normal. In Oveready's configuration, it can also blink when the light is OFF if the internal temperature reaches 120C or if the cell(s) trip the low voltage cut-off. Maybe Dan could put an explanation in a sticky for future reference.

Out of curiosity, where did you buy your batteries from?

 

[richstag]

Thanks and like I mentioned I bought them from oveready with the light.

The red indicator dims the LEDs with the 18350s in but not the 18650.

I have other 18350s but they are not matched pairs.

I'm not a strider guy btw.

 

[Dingle1911]

...

The goal today is to offer programming with purchase and programming with upgrade board service. It may be practical to offer additional services, but we have to wait to see how at least the first option goes.

It would be a good time to starting mapping what kind of memory dudes would like. Beyond the obvious yes/no.

Correct, drops can't be sure about cavity protection nor lens position so cannot be made unsealed.

My vote for mode mapping is L-M-H with no memory if it must be set.

I also just received a drop-in from Vihn with his DriverVN board that allows the end user to select the mode group by rapidly pressing (8) times to enter programming mode. I would be interested in a driver for the WASP that is programmable by the end user so that I can switch mode groups when needed. I am not really sure if this is possible with the WASP, but I would be interested.

 

[ElectronGuru]

Again, you absolutely did nothing wrong. Asking about a potential problem is a good start.

Agreed! The only thing wrong here is the confusion and none of that was your (Rich's) fault:

Our team put a hard to understand indicator LED on the board
Our team decided to leave it an undocumented feature
Our team released a product with an issue that increased scrutiny
Our team shipped you a light with a defect we did not detect

Its our job to make that right and anything you do to help is a favor to us

I am not really sure if this is possible with the WASP, but I would be interested.

There are two parts to the head. The head itself is just a metal framework. Any board that can be installed with any feature will give a 'wasp head' that feature. So it is possible, but not currently practical.