New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

[kaichu dento]

In all of these years, you are the first person to express this problem/ issue with the light. I don't doubt that many have had their light accidentally turned on at times; I know I have but for it to be a chronic problem, this is a first.

I never talked about it here in any of your threads because I just figured I was the only one, but the reason I haven't carried my Haiku in a long time, is that I pulled it out of my pocket so many times with a dead battery. Happens to most any of my lights with a clicky.

 

[RedLED]

I have had mine come on twice since 2010, and there is no reason for a redesign or modification, non issue, if you ask me. These are fine the way they are, these are the best in the world.

 

[kaichu dento]

I have had mine come on twice since 2010, and there is no reason for a redesign or modification, non issue, if you ask me. These are fine the way they are, these are the best in the world.

Non-issue for most users who carry in such a manner as to not have any trouble. If McGizmo makes a tweak to allow shutout, great. Neither one of us said anything suggesting the design was faulty, but rather that the way in which we carry them has caused us to turn them on accidentally.

I doubt there will be any changes and you can rest assured that the legacy of the Haiku shall continue, whether Don decides to do anything or not. Nor will I be selling mine at any time in the foreseeable future.

 

[RedLED]

Non-issue for most users who carry in such a manner as to not have any trouble. If McGizmo makes a tweak to allow shutout, great. Neither one of us said anything suggesting the design was faulty, but rather that the way in which we carry them has caused us to turn them on accidentally.

I doubt there will be any changes and you can rest assured that the legacy of the Haiku shall continue, whether Don decides to do anything or not. Nor will I be selling mine at any time in the foreseeable future.

No, however, if anything were to be done it would be considered a modfication or redesign at that point. I feel it is a non issue.

 

[kaichu dento]

No, however, if anything were to be done it would be considered a modfication or redesign at that point. I feel it is a non issue.

Then just ignore it and let others talk about it instead.

 

[RedLED]

Respected.

 

[DavidRZ]

Bringing up this old thread and looking for help.

So I just got a Haiku with this driver. First off, the light is awesome!! On top of that, the interaction with Don was excellent.

I have jumped the setup and been able to cycle to the setup mode. Once I get there, I'm having trouble doing what I want. I'd like to change the factory high from 1000 to 1200. Mainly because I don't often use this setting and I just want to see if I can change it. So what do I look for once I enter the setup phase? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

FWIW: I have read the User Documenation many...many times. I still don't get it. I'm missing something, this should be easier.

 

[archimedes]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

Hi DavidRZ, have you looked at the programming sequence picture very closely ?

Not the flowchart, not the text, but the little diagram of the duration of the programming "window" and signal "flashes"

I was totally confused by the text description, until I just ignored that and focused on what was happening when

Once you "see" what is happening, when, and why ... it will be the proverbial light bulb turning on " Eureka! " exclaiming moment

I cannot describe in words how to understand that exactly, but good luck.

 

[archimedes]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

The other thing I'd point out is that most programmable UI are affected by *what* you do (like click 1, 2, 3 times, turn left, turn right, press and hold or press and click, or whatever) ... but this one is more affected by exactly *when* you do it (the click)

 

[DavidRZ]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

The other thing I'd point out is that most programmable UI are affected by *what* you do (like click 1, 2, 3 times, turn left, turn right, press and hold or press and click, or whatever) ... but this one is more affected by exactly *when* you do it (the click)

Thanks for the tips. I got it figured out. No doubt there is a learning curve.

 

[archimedes]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

Thanks for the tips. I got it figured out. No doubt there is a learning curve.

Congrats ... there sure was for me

 

[RCS1300]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 "E-Series" lights.

A question. Very seriously considering adding a Haiku, CR123; 119V; and Hive driver to my flashlight collection. Most interested in the moonlight mode. Posts 51 and 56 of this thread mention visible to the eye Pulse Width Modulation at the lower < 4 lumen levels. I own many flashlights including a HDS rotary and Muyshondt Aeon MK III that have a less than 1 lumen mode. Have never seen PWM on those lights.


Does the Haiku, CR123, 119V, and Hive driver at the Factory Low .80 Lumen level have visible to the human eye PWM that an average person like me would notice?

 

[archimedes]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

A question....

.... Maybe PWM has always been present in my LED flashlights and I have never seen it because my eyes cannot notice it. That is fine. I just do not know.

Do all LED lights at very low lumen levels have PWM and I never noticed it so it would be a non-issue for me?

No, not all ... but most.

Individuals vary greatly in their sensitivity to PWM ... and PWM varies greatly in frequency used.

In general, the slower the frequency, the more noticeable and bothersome the PWM.

If you list several of your flashlights, we can tell you if they have PWM ... or you can just do the "shake test" and check for yourself :shrug:

 

[RCS1300]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

If you list several of your flashlights, we can tell you if they have PWM ... or you can just do the "shake test" and check for yourself :shrug:

Thank you for the response. Based on jon_slider's PWM flashlight list on CPF's, my HDS Rotary and Muyshondt Aeon MkIII are on it and with these lights I do not notice any PWM on moonlight mode or 1 lumen mode, respectively. The McGizmo Haiku 3S is also on that list but according to F89 the 3S engine was reintroduced in 2012 and no longer has PWM visible to the unaided human eye. I am going to recommend CPF remove that PWM flashlight list from the site as it is inaccurate and misleading.

I have read many of member F89's posts and tend to believe F89 on these high end lights rather than the PWM Flashlight list. F89 may be super sensitive to visible to an unaided eye PWM whereas an average person like me may not see it.

 

[F89]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

A question. Very seriously considering adding a Haiku, CR123; 119V; and Hive driver to my flashlight collection. Most interested in the moonlight mode. Posts 51 and 56 of this thread mention visible to the eye Pulse Width Modulation at the lower < 4 lumen levels. I own many flashlights including a HDS rotary and Muyshondt Aeon MK III that have a less than 1 lumen mode. Have never seen PWM on those lights.


Does the Haiku, CR123, 119V, and Hive driver at the Factory Low .80 Lumen level have visible to the human eye PWM that an average person like me would notice?

I'd say yes, you'd notice. I sure do.
I believe it was Gunga that said even Stevie Wonder could see that.

 

[F89]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

Thank you for the response. Based on jon_slider's PWM flashlight list on CPF's, my HDS Rotary and Muyshondt Aeon MkIII are on it and with these lights I do not notice any PWM on moonlight mode or 1 lumen mode, respectively. The McGizmo Haiku 3S is also on that list but according to F89 the 3S engine was reintroduced in 2012 and no longer has PWM visible to the unaided human eye. I am going to recommend CPF remove that PWM flashlight list from the site as it is inaccurate and misleading.

I have read many of member F89's posts and tend to believe F89 on these high end lights rather than the PWM Flashlight list. F89 may be super sensitive to visible to an unaided eye PWM whereas an average person like me may not see it.

I'm sensitive to PWM but happily use it if it's not "bad".
For me the 3S is perfectly fine, no issues with its PWM at all.

 

[RCS1300]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

I'd say yes, you'd notice. I sure do.
I believe it was Gunga that said even Stevie Wonder could see that.

Thank you for taking the time to provide more information on the Hive. The information was extremely helpful. While I want to support Don, I also predominantly use the moonlight mode and visible flicker to the unaided eye on LL is not what I want in a Flashlight. It has been over two years since the introduction of the Hive. Hopefully, the Hive maker will soon sort out the LL lumen level.

 

[F89]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

Thank you for taking the time to provide more information on the Hive. The information was extremely helpful. While I want to support Don, I also predominantly use the moonlight mode and visible flicker to the unaided eye on LL is not what I want in a Flashlight. It has been over two years since the introduction of the Hive. Hopefully, the Hive maker will soon sort out the LL lumen level.

Happy to help.
I hope I didn't discourage you too much.

Moonlight modes aside and even then, as much as I like HDS or moonlight modes in general, the Haiku in my opinion is probably the best small EDC type light there is. It's hard to say it but if I had to choose one single light and it came down to a small CR123 size the obvious decision would be HDS or Haiku and I'd go the Haiku. Tough call though.
You won't get a better tint or CRI and that punchy beam in an HDS than a Haiku 119V let alone the tough titanium body, super secure pocket clip and easily serviceable components. Plus it looks like something from the original Star Wars if that floats your boat.
The Hive isn't a bad LE, it's actually very good in ways but could use some work in others. The 3S is a basic work horse that does things simply and well with a sensible 3 mode spread and very useful low which I'm happy with but it's not a moonlight low. That said, even though I like moonlight I wouldn't change the low on the 3S.
The Haiku is just plain special.

 

[RCS1300]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

The Haiku is just plain special.

Agree. Already have a HDS rotary and Muyshondt Aeon Mk III. Looking to add one of Don's torches as I continue to migrate away from the Chinese lights. Nothing wrong with Chinese lights but they simply do not have the quality and their clicky switches are not confidence inspiring.

Since the Haiku is modular, I am considering the idea of purchasing the Haiku 1x123, 119V; and Hive with the known issue with the hope that once moonlight is fixed I can simply purchase the improved driver with a 119V LED for $135 and change it out. After two years since the Hive introduction, I am not sure there will be a fix on the Hive 3V driver.

 

[F89]

Re: New driver from RUSH for the 1x123 &quot;E-Series&quot; lights.

Agree. Already have a HDS rotary and Muyshondt Aeon Mk III. Looking to add one of Don's torches as I continue to migrate away from the Chinese lights. Nothing wrong with Chinese lights but they simply do not have the quality and their clicky switches are not confidence inspiring.

Since the Haiku is modular, I am considering the idea of purchasing the Haiku 1x123, 119V; and Hive with the known issue with the hope that once moonlight is fixed I can simply purchase the improved driver with a 119V LED for $135 and change it out. After two years since the Hive introduction, I am not sure there will be a fix on the Hive 3V driver.

Not a bad way to go about it.
There are other makers of McGizmo LE's or you could even make your own. The thing is though that nothing other than the 3S and Hive run perfectly well on 1xCR123, 1xRCR123, 2xAA so with anything else you're stuck with liion only.
On that note, the Hive is the master of multi voltage input with its custom selection, the 3S will do it too but you can't milk it like you can with the Hives programmable battery/voltage.
My advice would be to try a 3S in the meantime and see how the Hive develops or even check out the guy starting with "T" for a nice custom LE that'll do moonlight and programmable modes but only run on liion 4.2V.