*NEW* Eagletac TX30C2 - Nichia 219C HiCri 4000K Beam-shot comparison and impressions.

[Lex Icon]

Since this thread has virtually served its purpose, my postings are going sideways to the more recent 'Tint Snob' thread.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-Snob-Thread&p=5045893&viewfull=1#post5045893

Starting at the bottom of page 4, I have posted an image of the Nichia 219C 9050 HiCri 4000K - From my stock 2017 Eagletac TX30L2k next to the beam of 3 Nichia 219BT-V1 93 Cri Leds in a Modified MecArmy PT-18 triple

 

[Mr. Tone]

After a couple weeks with this light I am really loving it. It's a keeper

 

[Lex Icon]

After a couple weeks with this light I am really loving it. It's a keeper

Mine is a keeper also, glad you like yours.
Didn't figure it would take the place of my ZL, but it has when I'm outside.
Even though it is larger and heavier, the beam, temperature, and tint are more pleasing, it throws plenty, and fits my hand.
Inside, my ZL still reigns...handier, and better suited to falls and carelessness.

 

[Tomchrome]

Hey. I'm awful photographer, but maybe it will have some use for you guys.
1. Nichia 219C 4000K Hcri (Thrunite TH20 mod) + Nichia 219C 5000K 80cri (Lumintop Tool mod). Sony "pop" colour effect.

2. The same, but without effect, so "normal". Nichia 219C 4000K looks magenta -"rosy" comparing to 5000K.

3. Nichia 219C 4000K Hcri + Nichia 219BT V1 4000K, Hcri (Thrunite TH20 mod - both). Comparing them two: version C seems a bit more yellowish, with a very minimal hint of green (rather impossible to catch with my camera), version B more rosy (no visible green at all). On pictures it looks like version C is cooler, but it is not, in reality it seems even maybe a bit warmer. It is less rosy but yellow type creamy warm tint. Do not now how to set this camera (Sony Nex 6) to catch this properly. I will try again ...

4. Nichia 219C 4000K Hcri (Thrunite TH20) + Zebralight H600w Mk II

4. Nichia 219C (TH20) + Zebralight H600Fc Mk III

5. Nichia 219C 4000K (Thrunite TH20 mod) + Nichia 219C 5000K (Lumintop Tool mod) + Zebralight SC600 MkIII HI (which has the most simmilar tint to Nichia 219C 4000K Hcri, imho )

If there is a need i can try to take some better pictures - no problem and with pleasure, just let me know.
Thrunite TH20 with a Nichia C is noticeably brighter in max mode than TH20 with a Nichia BT, but i prefer tint of a version BT. Also, at least in case of my particular leds, BT version gives a bit more 3D like visual effect and maybe e bit better colour diversity, but it is all not scientific by any means , so only my subjective opinion. Sorry for my rather passive language skills ;-)

 

[INFRNL]

Hey Lex, since you are a ZL fan, is there any chance you have the SC600w MKIII HI? If so, could you please let us know your opinions of it vs the TX30C2 219C? Which do you like better and what are the pros and cons of each? Thanks.

As for the comparison, I look forward to one as well. It seems to me that it would go something like this...

Disclaimer: I don't own either and this is just my opinion based on specs and reviews

SC600w MKIII HI

- smaller size
- lighter weight
- better UI(subjective)
- simpler more user friendly interface(less buttons)
- more mode flexibility(programmable)
- moonlight modes
- much higher output
- higher efficiency
- better anodizing
- better fit and finish
- more flexible clip orientation


TX30C2

- better tint
- higher CRI
- better cell compatibility
- tougher design
- better warranty
- better user serviceability/customization(user replaceable lens etc.)
- more included accessories

Hopefully someone will eventually chime in that owns both.

I am likely going to get one of the two as since I sold my Nitecore MH20nw, I am in need of another small, throwy 18650 light. I will post when I decide and get it.

Just wanted to report that I have picked up this light (TX30C2) I also own the SC600 MK3 HI. I haven't had time to play with the TX30C2 yet so i cannot give a good comparison. Tachead; I know you decided to wait to see what ZL brings this year(hopefully fully programmable UI) I'll try to post what i currently know/think

I think you are correct in what you pointed out already with the exception of ui/tint (but as you said is subjective)
- ZL has shorter length, and slightly smaller head dia and is lighter because of size
- ZL is not necessarily simpler/user friendly: ET white button quick access to any mode from multiple clicks or cycle through all modes/ Black button Max/off (very very simple)
- ZL does have more levels and 2nd levels are programmable, plus Moonlight mode which ET lacks
- The higher output of the ZL does not necessarily amount to much (haven't been able to test yet)
- ZL finish quality and overall quality is better and doesn't have all the unnecessary writing on it
- ET does come with battery extension, can replace lens, etc which is nice compared to ZL

As far as tint/performance: Tint is subjective. The XHP35 HI has a very similar tint to the ET D25 Ti 219B 4700k. They are probably 1 shade off from eachother; very nice tint By themselves, they have a nice creamy tint to them
The ZL has a nice big smooth hotspot and a very large spill area that transitions very well from the hotspot. Hotspot is solid. When compared to the TX30C2 the XHP35 and 219B 4700k show a slight rosy tint.

TX30C2 (Mine does not have a beam anything like the pics shown here) 219C 4000K. Mine has a slightly yellowish tint to it which is more noticeable when compared to the XHP and 219B 4700K. At higher levels it gets more white and appears to change in tint somewhat. I think I actually prefer the XHP35 and 219B more; only thing 219c gives is better efficiency IMO. it's also hard to tell because the hotspot is smaller and has a donut effect to it, then the spill beam doesn't transition as well, then there is another ring on the outer edge(of a different color) so there are actually 3 colors, i believe to the beam profile, or so it seems(could very well be just the 2 colors alternating)
Mine does not ever look rosy compared to any other lights as shown in pics above and it is never as yellow either. I'll try to captur a shot with my phone ut not sure how it will turn out.

TX30C2 has a smaller but brighter hotspot and a lot smaller spill beam. I also didn't realize how similar these lights look until I took a couple shots of them

EDIT: I can not properly capture the beam shots, they do not show the true color. Also when I am close to a wall, the hotspot appears solid, but across a room the donut effect in the hotspot appears. I'd also like the bezel of the base kit rather than kit version, i thought it was included in the kit but I was mistaken, but it is nice to have the extension tube. Other items that come in the kit will not be used by me so that's kind of a waste.The crenelated bezel makes the beam out of round and i no not like the stainless color with all black light but thats all personal preference

 

[Tachead]

Thanks for the update:thumbsup:.

The 219C in the Eagletac should look a lot more yellow then the XHP35 HI(4500K nominal) or the 219B 4700K as it is way warmer then both at 4000K nominal and tint always gets more yellow orange as the CCT gets lower.

Thanks for the pics. Wow the Eagletac is a lot larger then the ZL.

 

[INFRNL]

Thanks for the update:thumbsup:.

The 219C in the Eagletac should look a lot more yellow then the XHP35 HI(4500K nominal) or the 219B 4700K as it is way warmer then both at 4000K nominal and tint always gets more yellow orange as the CCT gets lower.

Thanks for the pics. Wow the Eagletac is a lot larger then the ZL.

Ok, maybe I'm a little confused.
With a cree, a 4000k emitter would definitely be more yellow as the temp gets lower, but from my lack of experience the Nichia are a little different. I have a HDS with hcri 4000k 219B and it is rosy as well in comparison to the 219C.

I need more time but just did a quick comparison between 4000k 219b and xhp35 4500K, and 219B 4700K. The 4000k 219b appears to be more rosy than the 4500 & 4700K. With nichia I am getting the impression that warmer means slightly rosier rather than yellow. Although the 219c is the first nichia that appears yellowish to my eyes rather than rosy.

It starts to get difficult when you keep trying to compare tints with different lights. Either way hopefully my info so far gives you an idea.

 

[INFRNL]

I forgot to mention, the pics are a little deceiving. The body diameter look to be the same (I didn't mic them out). If there is a difference in dia, it is not noticeable. Also the Eagtac is only longer by roughtly the length of 1 IMR or primary 123, it's not as bad as the pic may make it out to be. The head diameter is a tiny bit bigger; with the crenelated ring off you can see the ZL just fits inside the ET; so the difference is roughly a couple of mm.

Also I do not think I mentioned it here but a fellow member informed me that the TX30C2 has a momentary function (press and hold black button) That's a nice touch. and one thing I'd like to see ZL add to their ui somehow

 

[aginthelaw]

It appears to be the same dimensions as the kit version of the tx25c2 correct?

 

[INFRNL]

It appears to be the same dimensions as the kit version of the tx25c2 correct?

Yes, according to the specs on the eagtac site Body and head diameter sizes are the same; however the TX30c2 is 5" compared to 5.7" of the tx25C2.