I have an early body and a later one. The early has a metal flat washer, while the later has a plastic one with a raised portion around the center hole. The raised portion goes toward the boot. Try it without the O-ring.
NiteCore Extreme Review - RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, COMPARISONS, etc.
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Is the o-ring not there to waterproof it? I'll try it without it now.
The strangest thing is happening to my torch.
After taking the o-ring out and trying it without, it worked fine for a few tries.
After I tried it again, it was only going on when I clicked momentary on. When I clicked it fully in high mode, the light would turn off totally. It was OK in variable mode.
So I thought it was the battery. I changed it to a brand new one out of the packaging and the same thing happened.
I then thought the o-ring must have provided the pressure required for the clicky spring to keep contact with the battery negative end. So I put the o-ring back in, and nothing happens at all now. The odd time when I push the clicky in really far it goes on for a split second.
Strange, and very annoying. I've just stuck it in a bag ready to send back to Nitecore. Not impressed! :shakehead
After taking the o-ring out and trying it without, it worked fine for a few tries.
After I tried it again, it was only going on when I clicked momentary on. When I clicked it fully in high mode, the light would turn off totally. It was OK in variable mode.
So I thought it was the battery. I changed it to a brand new one out of the packaging and the same thing happened.
I then thought the o-ring must have provided the pressure required for the clicky spring to keep contact with the battery negative end. So I put the o-ring back in, and nothing happens at all now. The odd time when I push the clicky in really far it goes on for a split second.
Strange, and very annoying. I've just stuck it in a bag ready to send back to Nitecore. Not impressed! :shakehead
Dobbler
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 503
fareast
Enlightened
a few comments:
- it seems the surefire F04 and the like should fit the NEX quite well. Note however I have not tried this myself, I have seen others comment it fits;
- the sequence of the NEX clicky assembly:
1. clicky;
2. metal/plastic washer;
3. the translucent o-ring;
4. the rubber switch boot;
5. the retaining ring.
Since I have switched to a different rubber switch boot I have a few threads (~1 turn) sticking out. The rubber switch boot is still a lot higher though.
I have added a few photo's to try and paint a better picture.
The NEX on the left is with the ring and switch boot sticking out and the right one still had it's original switch boot
the left one is with original boot, the other two have an elevated ring and boot (non-original)
PwallWin:
I know the issue you describe. I have had it sometimes when I have not tightened the retaining ring enough. If this is fully thightened, then it could also be that the clicky is finicky. Use a different one. This has always worked for me and I think in the end it was always the clicky switch since I always tighten my ring quite well. If you have no more spares, let me know, I mail one to you seeing I have enough spares. Or, you might try NiteCore also, what ever tickles your fancy.
- it seems the surefire F04 and the like should fit the NEX quite well. Note however I have not tried this myself, I have seen others comment it fits;
- the sequence of the NEX clicky assembly:
1. clicky;
2. metal/plastic washer;
3. the translucent o-ring;
4. the rubber switch boot;
5. the retaining ring.
Since I have switched to a different rubber switch boot I have a few threads (~1 turn) sticking out. The rubber switch boot is still a lot higher though.
I have added a few photo's to try and paint a better picture.
The NEX on the left is with the ring and switch boot sticking out and the right one still had it's original switch boot
the left one is with original boot, the other two have an elevated ring and boot (non-original)
PwallWin:
I know the issue you describe. I have had it sometimes when I have not tightened the retaining ring enough. If this is fully thightened, then it could also be that the clicky is finicky. Use a different one. This has always worked for me and I think in the end it was always the clicky switch since I always tighten my ring quite well. If you have no more spares, let me know, I mail one to you seeing I have enough spares. Or, you might try NiteCore also, what ever tickles your fancy.
euroken
Flashlight Enthusiast
I can confirm that F04 fits NEX quite nicely. 
Dobbler
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 503
I can confirm that F04 fits NEX quite nicely.
Thank you.
Moonshadow
Enlightened
This happens to me occasionally when I swap the batteries. Usually taking the battery out and putting it back in a couple of times will fix things and then it works OK until the next battery change.
Since it only happens shortly after opening up to put in a new battery, I was thinking that it was maybe due to the brass contact rings in the head sticking rather than the clicky switch. Only happens with rechargeables (AW), so I guess it could be a battery length issue too.
In order to avoid problems, have support, order parts, get replacements if necessary, get the latest version light with the latest fixes, etc.....where is the best place to purchase the light? Nitecore.com does not seem to be up. Does the latest version of the light have a (silver) steel ring on the switch and have most of the issues with the switch been fixed, including the dimension of the tail end threads? All the issues discussed with the clicky scare me a bit.
Does the newest version have R2 written on it to distinguish it from the previous version?
The only thing not mentioned about this light is that it does not stand up on its tail.
On the previous pics I am wondering what kind of trits are used to fill the holes on the tail and how that was done. The lighter (white) trits look awesome.
There was mention of a G2 option.....is that the brightest newest CREE about to be released?
Thanks for any info.
Panflute
Does the newest version have R2 written on it to distinguish it from the previous version?
The only thing not mentioned about this light is that it does not stand up on its tail.
On the previous pics I am wondering what kind of trits are used to fill the holes on the tail and how that was done. The lighter (white) trits look awesome.
There was mention of a G2 option.....is that the brightest newest CREE about to be released?
Thanks for any info.
Panflute
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fareast
Enlightened
A few people have had a body tail ID which was a it too wide. I have one of those. I think this is a second run model (Q5). People who have had this issue (see earlier posts in this thread) had been sent replacement bodies without trouble, however, I am still using my original body because the colour of the anodizing is really beautiful (they changed to dark grey later). My original solution still works perfectly. I believe the R2 versions have E3R2 or something similar etched on the head. I think it's pretty safe to assume these have fewer issues than older ones. For one, they should come with the black clickies. The best bet however is to use the NEX head on a SF E-series body and clicky.
The trits are the ones from B@rt over at the CPFMP, size 1.55mm x 5mm. I used a non-permanent solution as adhesive: Pritt Poster Buddies. This makes the trits being held shockproof and in place and fully reversible.
The light could be made to tailstand if you have the right clicky and switch boot or other body...(i.e. the Ti McClicky pak)
A G2 option does not ring any bells with me.
No worries!
The trits are the ones from B@rt over at the CPFMP, size 1.55mm x 5mm. I used a non-permanent solution as adhesive: Pritt Poster Buddies. This makes the trits being held shockproof and in place and fully reversible.
The light could be made to tailstand if you have the right clicky and switch boot or other body...(i.e. the Ti McClicky pak)
A G2 option does not ring any bells with me.
No worries!
Thanks for the info Fareast. B@rt is on vacation until next month so the trits will have to wait until then.
I ended up with 2 Extremes...one R3 (golden dragon) and one R3R2.
The older R3 (golden dragon) has a nice tight white beam. It is whiter than the R2 beam, but slightly less powerful throw and smaller center beam.
The R3R2 beam besides being slightly more powerful (the LED is bigger) and having a little more throw, is slightly yellow in comparison, but also has a much wider spot. The side fill is about the same size on both lights.
Choosing between the 2, the smaller whiter beam or the larger beam is difficult but the larger beam has a "ring" around it. The smaller R2 beam has diffuse edges and no ring. I am leaning to keeping the golden dragon at the moment, but the night is young.
The blue rechargeable batteries I have seem to fit fine in either light, not being too tight.
panflute
I ended up with 2 Extremes...one R3 (golden dragon) and one R3R2.
The older R3 (golden dragon) has a nice tight white beam. It is whiter than the R2 beam, but slightly less powerful throw and smaller center beam.
The R3R2 beam besides being slightly more powerful (the LED is bigger) and having a little more throw, is slightly yellow in comparison, but also has a much wider spot. The side fill is about the same size on both lights.
Choosing between the 2, the smaller whiter beam or the larger beam is difficult but the larger beam has a "ring" around it. The smaller R2 beam has diffuse edges and no ring. I am leaning to keeping the golden dragon at the moment, but the night is young.
The blue rechargeable batteries I have seem to fit fine in either light, not being too tight.
panflute
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TriChrome
Enlightened
Just got mine delivered today (E3 R2 model) and dropped in an AW R123 to test it in the dark. Pretty decent for such a small light, but I must admit I was hoping for more... I atribute it to how I'm still new to high end lights, and more used to incandescent lights. A 60 lumen Surefire P60 still looks brighter than a 220 lumen LED to me for some reason...
Some comments to add to Selfbuilt's review (hope you don't mind).
-They changed the packaging. It's no longer a nice foam padded box with latch, but a regular cardboard box with clear plastic window (similar to how Surefire sells theirs).
-They now only include 1 extra clicky instead of two (and two o-rings and an allen wrench).
-The ring which holds on the rubber part of the switch is chrome instead of black, and mine sticks out so I can see the threads on it a little bit (and it won't screw in any farther).
-When I tightened the pocket clip (which was the smallest bit loose) the lock washers underneath separated so they only close maybe 300 degrees, instead of a good 350 like normal, and I've never seen lock washers separate like that (which makes me want to get some locktite on those screws).
-The color of the anodozing is a slightly lighter gray on the head, versus the bezel and the rest of the body.
Lastly, does anybody else have a delay of about half a second (maybe even closer to a full second) between switching modes? For a tactical light that's really, really bad. I've also noticed that if I turn off the light in the user-selected mode (which is usually programmed to low power for me), twist the light to be in high power mode, then turn it on, it starts in low power then after a half second delay it will go into high power mode (or strobe).
Some comments to add to Selfbuilt's review (hope you don't mind).
-They changed the packaging. It's no longer a nice foam padded box with latch, but a regular cardboard box with clear plastic window (similar to how Surefire sells theirs).
-They now only include 1 extra clicky instead of two (and two o-rings and an allen wrench).
-The ring which holds on the rubber part of the switch is chrome instead of black, and mine sticks out so I can see the threads on it a little bit (and it won't screw in any farther).
-When I tightened the pocket clip (which was the smallest bit loose) the lock washers underneath separated so they only close maybe 300 degrees, instead of a good 350 like normal, and I've never seen lock washers separate like that (which makes me want to get some locktite on those screws).
-The color of the anodozing is a slightly lighter gray on the head, versus the bezel and the rest of the body.
Lastly, does anybody else have a delay of about half a second (maybe even closer to a full second) between switching modes? For a tactical light that's really, really bad. I've also noticed that if I turn off the light in the user-selected mode (which is usually programmed to low power for me), twist the light to be in high power mode, then turn it on, it starts in low power then after a half second delay it will go into high power mode (or strobe).
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Pretty sure they all do that. At least the two I had did.
Let me add my experiences too...
* I bought mine a year ago and back then it came in a nice padded box with nice foam, 2 switches, allen wrench, etc... really nice. The SR3 I bought about a month ago comes in a box too but the foam is really junky quality so unlike the Extreme box was. Perhaps what you are seeing is a decline overall, not just specific to that one model though I don't like to think like that.
*The half second delay is there for me too and intended though I can see how it becomes a pain if you want to use it tactically.
*No anodizing mismatch on mine although that is just luck of the draw
*My ring is also chrome though it doesn't stick out
*I'm on my second body already b/c the screws continually loosen / then strip. Bad design on NiteCore's part
Other than that a real nice light which I've carried / abused for a year now. Dropped it onto concrete from 6 feet 2 times and a bunch of other little dings and drops here and there and still ticking.
