kaichu dento
Flashaholic
Last question regarding the clicks - does it appear that they got the clicks in the right places to make a nice balanced brightness shift for each position change?
Niteye EYE10 Review
- Thread starter subwoofer
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
I don't have it on me right now, but would say yes, the click positions correspond to a nice gradual increase. Bear in mind, the magnetic control ring appears to have infinite adjustment, but it is the clicks that make it stop at certain output levels. The clicks are at regular angular intervals, so do not appear to have been specifically spaced to hit certain output levels.
fyrstormer
Banned
Yeah, but how does the runtime compare? Running the LED harder to get more brightness at the expense of runtime is no amazing feat by itself.
netman
Newly Enlightened
My two arrived. I actually purchased a third as a gift. The light comes in a little box with a matching paper sleeve. Of note to me was the consistency of light output versus dial position between the two lights. The dial is fully variable with detents and the detents fall very similar on the two lights.
I love the fully variable control. MY nitecore did that but the battery goes dead if I leave it screwed in and that turns the thing into a tactical only control (but I digress). The light goes almost lower than one can see so I see this as a light I can put on a nightstand as a candle and burn it low all night but take it with me in the dark in case I need a blast. With the AW IMR (16340) it goes BRIGHT as the reviews tell. It seems very well made and it is -small-. I wear dress pants at work and they don't have strong pockets and the EYE10 is ok in my pocket with my key ring (which features my Fenix LOD single AAA).
Love this light and appreciate Subwoofers review!
I love the fully variable control. MY nitecore did that but the battery goes dead if I leave it screwed in and that turns the thing into a tactical only control (but I digress). The light goes almost lower than one can see so I see this as a light I can put on a nightstand as a candle and burn it low all night but take it with me in the dark in case I need a blast. With the AW IMR (16340) it goes BRIGHT as the reviews tell. It seems very well made and it is -small-. I wear dress pants at work and they don't have strong pockets and the EYE10 is ok in my pocket with my key ring (which features my Fenix LOD single AAA).
Love this light and appreciate Subwoofers review!
I received the Eye10 today. The box it comes in reminds me of the old Nitecore style of packaging~hmmm
I like the looks of the light. I popped in a cr123 and the beam is much smoother than my RRT-01 but I find the detents annoying since I must go through 5 clicks to reach a useful amount of light, even in a darkened room. As others have said the light gets very hot very fast on a 16340 battery.
Although I prefer the Jetbeam with its better heatsink and no detents this light costs $25 less and that is easier on my budget.
Edit: I have been using the EYE10 for a few days now and really like it. The light doesn't get too hot on a 16340 one click away from the highest and I like the measured changes in intensity provided by the detents.
I've ordered two 18350 batteries from Battery Junction and the EYE10 will be a part of my EDC rotation.
I like the looks of the light. I popped in a cr123 and the beam is much smoother than my RRT-01 but I find the detents annoying since I must go through 5 clicks to reach a useful amount of light, even in a darkened room. As others have said the light gets very hot very fast on a 16340 battery.
Although I prefer the Jetbeam with its better heatsink and no detents this light costs $25 less and that is easier on my budget.
Edit: I have been using the EYE10 for a few days now and really like it. The light doesn't get too hot on a 16340 one click away from the highest and I like the measured changes in intensity provided by the detents.
I've ordered two 18350 batteries from Battery Junction and the EYE10 will be a part of my EDC rotation.
Last edited:
Colonel Sanders
Flashlight Enthusiast
I am loving this new light and it is loving the AW 18350s! This light will pull 3 amp on turbo so these cells are a must for this light, IMO. Next level down is 2.2a and then 1.6a.
It is my new EDC performance king and this includes my SC600 and Mac's Tri-EDC (though these two certainly have their merits...not discrediting them AT ALL). For all out output combined with usable throw, I think it is currently tops. Also, it easliy the smallest of any of my brighter EDCs.
It is my new EDC performance king and this includes my SC600 and Mac's Tri-EDC (though these two certainly have their merits...not discrediting them AT ALL). For all out output combined with usable throw, I think it is currently tops. Also, it easliy the smallest of any of my brighter EDCs.
If the manufacturer's specs for this light show ""Recommended working voltage: 2-3.2V", won't any rechargeable 16340 or 18350 cell just fry the driver? I can understand the need to keep high mode to short bursts, but surely the higher voltage isn't good (and presumably invalidates any warranty).
Dubois (and Colonel Sanders, take note),
Niteye do NOT recommend using RCR123 in the EYE10, they did however say it should be OK as long as you never use it on maximum for more than 5 minutes as otherwise you risk frying the LED. At lower levels, there seems to be no restriction and I have been using the one I have with RCR123 since reviewing it. Now it has a CR123 in it, only because I'm testing the CR123, not the EYE10.
When you do use RCR123, especially IMR cells, you will know when to stop as it get very hot very quickly, so be sensible and with RCR123 only use maximum output sparingly and you should be fine.
I appreciate this, but isn't it intrinsically asking for trouble to use a higher voltage than the manufacturer recommends - even at lower output levels? Will the warranty be invalidated? I emailed Niteye a few days ago asking for their comments on using RCR123 cells in the EYE10, but haven't had a reply. Think I might go with the V11R instead, even though I like the look of this beast.
kaichu dento
Flashaholic
Not only are many using RCR123 or 16340 cells in the RRT-01 and TC-R1, which are essentially the same light as the EYE-10, but the recent spate of sales of 18350's has been largely driven by people using them in these lights as well. No problems here and I don't expect any as I use my lights as hand held light sources and have always avoided the highest output levels, especially for extended periods.
I've just had this light about 2 weeks, and the only thing that's bothered me up until today, is the "half" knurling on the control ring. The part that's smooth, which is typically where your index finger would be placed...with your thumb on the knurled part, slips, preventing a decent grip to turn it on with. Does everyone else's light only have half knurling on the ring? Why they didn't extend it all the way around is beyond me -- or at least divide it into two equal sections. Anyway, I put a little strip of velcro on the smooth part, and now it allows me the proper grip. It looks a tad funky.... but what the hay!
Colonel Sanders
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yep, the half knurling was a definite brain fart on their designer's part. Certainly makes it harder to get a sure grip when changing modes. I hope this is fixed soon. If so I'll be upgrading. They could also knock off a couple of the first detents that don't do anything. This would make it easy to go from off to turbo in one motion.
Unfortunately the half knurling is not quite in the right place. If it were in the opposite position around the control ring it would be better as I find I tend to be gripping the smooth part. Full knurling would avoid this issue.
As far as the first few detents not doing anything, remember that this is a magnetic control ring, and in order to ensure the light if fully switched off, you need to move the magnet far enough away from the sensor. There is no click switch to act as a master off switch, so you need the extra space at the beginning of the control ring's movement or risk it being on the low setting all the time (as a designer you have to allow for different magnetic flux and sensor responses and err on the side of safety).
Seems to be a interesting light indeed.
In my quest of the ideal EDC, this one is close... one or two things apart : LED and optic. I prefer XPG or so in this size of flaslight for better runtimes, and also prefer some throw over flood.
So here is my newbie questions for people who have one of these, and have done some tests on it (Colonel Sanders ?) :
- What do you think about an emitter swap for a Nichia 219 HCRI, used with 16340 : will the driver provide as Amps as the battery could, and so fry the led ? Colonel Sanders spoke of 3 amps with a AW 18350 on max (IMR i think, could provide 6A), which surely fry the Nichia as it is twice the max current it supports. One AW 16340 have a max of perhaps 1500mA ?
- Could you please tell me the internal diameter of the head, and the height of the reflector. I like TIR optics and want to know if it fits
Thanks
In my quest of the ideal EDC, this one is close... one or two things apart : LED and optic. I prefer XPG or so in this size of flaslight for better runtimes, and also prefer some throw over flood.
So here is my newbie questions for people who have one of these, and have done some tests on it (Colonel Sanders ?) :
- What do you think about an emitter swap for a Nichia 219 HCRI, used with 16340 : will the driver provide as Amps as the battery could, and so fry the led ? Colonel Sanders spoke of 3 amps with a AW 18350 on max (IMR i think, could provide 6A), which surely fry the Nichia as it is twice the max current it supports. One AW 16340 have a max of perhaps 1500mA ?
- Could you please tell me the internal diameter of the head, and the height of the reflector. I like TIR optics and want to know if it fits
Thanks
bltkmt
Enlightened
Received mine this week and find it to be a nice EDC light. Man, the lowest low setting is barely visible (or useable)!
Colonel Sanders
Flashlight Enthusiast
- What do you think about an emitter swap for a Nichia 219 HCRI, used with 16340 : will the driver provide as Amps as the battery could, and so fry the led ? I wish I knew for sure but I would think that whatever that emitter could pull when driven directly would be all you would see...but I just don't know. Colonel Sanders spoke of 3 amps with a AW 18350 on max (IMR i think, could provide 6A), which surely fry the Nichia as it is twice the max current it supports. One AW 16340 have a max of perhaps 1500mA ? The three amps I saw WAS with an IMR 18350. A direct driven XM-L can certainly pull much more than that on an IMR cell so there is some limiting factor here other than the cell used. Could be resistance, could be the driver....don't know.
- Could you please tell me the internal diameter of the head, and the height of the reflector. I like TIR optics and want to know if it fits I don't plan on taking this thing apart myself. I do plan on having my emitter swapped for a neutral or high CRI emitter by someone who really knows what they're doing.
- Could you please tell me the internal diameter of the head, and the height of the reflector. I like TIR optics and want to know if it fits I don't plan on taking this thing apart myself. I do plan on having my emitter swapped for a neutral or high CRI emitter by someone who really knows what they're doing.
