No love from Magic Shine

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Jash

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Hi folks,

Finally got my Magic Shine bike light today (ordered last year). Anyhow, it didn't come with any instructions and I can't for the life of me find them anywhere in cyber universe. So, it comes with a charger that has a little red light on it. I assume it will turn green when the charging is done as do most chargers that have a little red light.
It runs 4 18650's, not sure of the series/parallel setup. Again, NO INSTRUCTIONS.
All help will be deeply appreciated.
 

pe2er

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So, it comes with a charger that has a little red light on it. I assume it will turn green when the charging is done as do most chargers that have a little red light.
Yes, LED is red when charging, green when finished.

The green light on the light head turns red when the battery runs low.
It runs 4 18650's, not sure of the series/parallel setup. Again, NO INSTRUCTIONS.
Batteries are 2S2P => Battery voltage is 7.2V (8.4V Max)

See this thread for more information: Anyone played with the new DX P7 bike light?
 

Wuss912

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your not paying for the handholding that other companies with better service give you. this is why most folks on here reccomend buying the magicshine via geoman as he really stands behind his stuff.
 

Jash

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I live in Australia, so buying from geoman would've added more cost, and I've dealt with DX a bit and they're pretty good with issues.

Another thing, I ran the light last night for about ten minutes and it got warm, but not as warm as the head on my P7 mag.

After reading a thread on this light I took it apart and applied a generous amount of heat sinking compound between the pill and the body. It got VERY warm this afternoon after being on for only about five minutes. It is summer here and I just had the light sitting on the bike (no airflow). But I do believe the heatsinking compound is helping get the heat out faster which should be a good thing.

Seems this light is popular and gets mostly favourable reviews. This is the first light I own powered by Li-ion batteries and I'm a little un-nerved after reading about these things being rather dangerous (the li-ion batteries that is). I've got the battery carrier strapped underneath the stem of my bike and don't like the thought of it ever exploding only 18 inches from my face.

Are the stories of detonating batteries true, or just good urban myths.
 

Benson

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Are the stories of detonating batteries true, or just good urban myths.
You might read up in Smoke and Fire, Hot Cells and Close Calls - The dangerous side of batteries for CPFers experiences, lots of material there to learn various safety lessons.

Generally, Li-ion batteries are most likely to burn/explode while charging, so I definitely wouldn't be worried about the battery location. But AFAIK practically all cases of Li-ion explosions involve some form of abuse (either at the time of the explosion or previously, causing internal damage), so it's not as though they're all ticking bombs.
 

pe2er

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Mine are from Dx as well. Nothing wrong about that, as long as you know how to rectify the minor flaws you may encounter, like you just did.
Are the stories of detonating batteries true, or just good urban myths.
LiIon batteries can fail, yes. They can catch fire. This mainly occurs when charging them, or when a short circuit load is on the battery, or when the batteries are physically damaged. They can even explode (like the batteries in the I-Phone :D ), but this is extremely rare.

The good news is, that the battery pack from the Magicshine has a protective circuit board inside, and as long as you use the dedicated charger, there is little to worry about. I charge my batteries outside the main house, but mostly because it is convenient. The batteries remain on my bike during charging and the two chargers are above it, suspended from the ceiling of the bike shed.

This is what the FAA has to say about the safety of Li-Ion batteries:
SAFO: Fighting Fires Caused By Lithium Type Batteries in Portable Electronic Devices (see VIDEOS below)
VIDEOS: View videos on Cabin Crew Fire Fighting Training (updated 03/09/09) & Laptop Battery Fires.


Some hardcore users here on CPF recommend charging LiIon batteries in a metal bucket filled with sand placed outside your house, but this a taking it a bit too far IMHO.
 
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bradjackson

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Hi folks,

Finally got my Magic Shine bike light today (ordered last year). Anyhow, it didn't come with any instructions and I can't for the life of me find them anywhere in cyber universe. So, it comes with a charger that has a little red light on it. I assume it will turn green when the charging is done as do most chargers that have a little red light.
It runs 4 18650's, not sure of the series/parallel setup. Again, NO INSTRUCTIONS.
All help will be deeply appreciated.

I have written up an instruction manual of sorts for the MJ808 bike light.
You can find it on my website: http://www.magiclight.co.za/userguide

I hope it helps.
 

Benson

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I been looking to find a 1200lm LED, but no one that sells the 1200lm Flash Lights has replied to me with availability on replcement LEDs, where can i find 900lm+ LEDs for replacement ?
You can't find ones that will be easy to replace, because that's as bright as P7s go. You could swap in an SST-50 or SST-90 (check the marketplace, or the Luminus distributor for your country...), but that'll take some doing, including modifying the driver if you want more than 900 lumens.

Also the batteries in the MagicShine ... are they 4 x small AAA sized Li-Ion or AA sized ?
No. They're 18650s.
Does UltraFire make one single battery that can replace the 4 in this kit ?
Not AFAIK.

What about adding another battery(ies), what options do i have ?
They're 2s2p, any 2s Li-ion pack you like should work. Batteryspace comes to mind, but there's plenty of places. Not sure about the snap-together connectors they use, though; if that matters to you, maybe just buy another magicshine pack from wherever you got the first one.
 

bluepilgrim

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Cars have two headlights. A bicycle could too. Heads have two ears and two eyes...
(And if one light malfunctions and goes out you aren't left in the dark.)
 

kaos42_ze

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You can't find ones that will be easy to replace, because that's as bright as P7s go. You could swap in an SST-50 or SST-90 (check the marketplace, or the Luminus distributor for your country...), but that'll take some doing, including modifying the driver if you want more than 900 lumens.

http://www.luminus.com/content1518

it looks like that SST-50 is only 550lmn
 

BrianMc

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The SST-50 is probably not the solution but not for the reason of 550 lumens at 1.25 A.

Look at the datasheet (in particular, the output versus current graph):

http://www.luminus.com/stuff/conten...3_sst_50_w_product_datasheet_illumination.pdf

The rating at 2.4 A is about 40% more or about 770 lm at 2.4 A. It is also 1250 at 5 A. You come out about the same place at 2.4 A as the original P7.

At 5 A you reach over 1200 lumens but more than twice as much heat (over 16 Watts), as the overloaded head just manages to handle (8 watts). So you could do it, but you'd likely fry the LED.

May be why the SST-50 was not suggested before.

If you will consider multiple LED's and a lens instead of reflector, there is a soon to be released possibility you may want to know about. You will need to measure and see. The '808's head appears to be smaller than MR11 (35 mm) but you might be able to fit one of these which are 20 mm when they come on market and come close to 1100 lumens which is the driver and three XP-G Rs and about the same heat output. If you wait for S2's to be released and available, you'd exceed 1200 lumens. If you'd give up some max output to put more lumens on the road/trail a mixed XP-E/XP-G setup, if he makes them available, that would be better, but you may be down to 900 well-placed lumens.

If you consider this upgrade, it would be better to make a new mount that has more contact to the body for better heat flow than adapt the original poor design. You might be able to remove the lip the stock mount sits on, and fit a modified copper pipe cap that can fit the inside shape of the light body better to move the heat to the body faster. Something to mull over. Check the thread on copper pipe caps if you want to see some successful heat sinks made in that vein.
 

kaos42_ze

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What about SST-90 ? can you drop your 0.02$ on it ?

This is niiiiice ...

[hotlinked image removed. Please read Rule 3. - DM51]

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaos42
could this 1100lmn LED be used in a MJ-808 ?


Simple answer is: no.

They tell me it will not work in the 808 ...

what about the S2s ? what are they ? when would they be available ?
 
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BrianMc

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To OP: please excuse this related discussion. It got longer than intended. It does relate to one way to deal with one kind of problem in an MJ-808, so fits here. I hope you agree. No intent to steal the thread.

What about SST-90 ? can you drop your 0.02$ on it ??

OK gave me an excuse to look at it. It's CRI (color rendering index is 70 which sounds a little low to me as the CREE XP-G is 75 and is OK but some think it too white). The warmer tint, higher CRI SST-90's have lower output. Some people see with warmer light better, so for them less lumens and higher CRI, is more.

Using the stock MJ-808 driver at 2.4-2.5 A you get 75% of the output at 3.15 A. Since the binning rarely hits the high side, let's say 75% of 1000 lumens or about 750 so you are the same as the P7, if the P7 isn't one of the best, and worse if it is. If you got lucky you might get 900 from a really good SST-90 comparable to a really great P7.

Cranking the amps up for more light means even more heat, than light. Though that is one of the straightest lines I have seen plotted for Amps versus % of standard measure lumens (100% at 3.15 A, usually more heat than light above that and more curved above about 50-75% of max.)

5 A gives you about 3.5 Vf for 17.5 Watts, about 15 W of that as heat, and 150% or 1500 lumens. So a better choice than the SST 50 it terms of heat and light out. BUT that would still be almost double the heat of a P7 AND you'd need a 5 A driver (preferably in an attached housing off the back well connected to the back of the driver mount so you can have temp monitoring). NOT easy. And the reflector may not work well with it after all that work!

Compared to that, a little heat sink work for the unit below would be easy.


They tell me it will not work in the 808 ...

I saw your post right after I posted in this thread above. Read MTBR forum again. Short answer is why not, if you have one? Or like me, can't hope to make as pretty a package from scratch although, you can cobble the innards fine.

I think this is a brilliant upgrade path beacuse you don't have to house a driver. IF you like/have the housing. BUT it wouldn't be a plug and play kit. You will end up about the same cost as a second light head from Geoman, maybe a bit more, though you should have more light better heat management, and an upgrade system if he stays in business making them.

The MJ-808 is a nice small housing, a little too small for optimal cooling. So a new heat sink could easily help. There is a rim (according to that humongous thread here about it) that acts as a ledge to hold the 'heat sink'. That is the only contact point between the body and heat sink and it is not enough thermal path, even with AA on it.

You can grind it out of the way then fit a copper pipe cap to wedge into the tail. That wil be a lot of trial and error, fitting cutting, polishing repeat, but I did it in two different designs for a Bullet shaped Marwi light, so you can do it with no milling machine. My 1" caps were $2 each. The completed light runs very cool.

what about the S2s ? what are they ? when would they be available ?

Not sure how much you have read. A search on S2 would have been too short for keywords to Google it. But by now you should know that LED's are 'binned' by a number of things. White power LEDs are binned by tint and their output range. This is usually a letter/number and specific to each manufacturer and even family of LED's by a manufacturer.

Currently, the CREE XP-G R5 is the highest output bin we can buy in that model. It ranges from 138-144 lumens per Watt at 300 mA. A random one is likely closer to the 139 than the 144. Cree has been making some S2's available to manufacturers and that usually precedes the release that are higher output again. (See link below and look it up to see for yourself.)

The XP-G family was released October 25 2009, I think but samples had been available for months, at least since July. So the S2 may be here by early summer in the Northern Hemisphere.

You can look it up in the binning documentation for the XP-G and other CREE LED's that you can find links for here (or on the CREE site):

http://www.cutter.com.au/categories.php?cat=Cree+LEDS

CREE also have a 200 lumens/watt beast on its way, but figure no sooner than the fall for it and we don't know much about it like whether it will work with available reflectors and optics. (I may have missed a thread or 2 on it, though.)

So, no sweat, if you don't get it right this time, you can mod it again, and again!
 
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