Both are nice and clean. Lights like that usually don't work but not because they are broken, but because contact parts are tarnished. Either that or the bulb is burnt. Either way, they're usually easy to get going. Clean contact points with tarnish remover like deoxit. A digital volt meter set to ohm's with sound will tell you where current stops. Just hold the ground to the body and touch contact points like the switch or spring etc and where you don't get a beep is where current is stopped. Clean that part it'll beep and then move to the next point.
If they do work but the light is dim, again tarnish creates a higher resistance. A good cleaning is usually all it takes. With the volt meter you'll see the ohms drop as you clean parts. I've seen 17 ohms drop to less than 5 when cleaning old lights.
The E10 (screw in) bulb for the 1930's light are easy to come by. Same with PR bulbs for the 1950's light. Top Bulb is one source. Bulb Town, Eiko and others.
For some reason Winchester lights usually go for higher prices than Eveready. In my view as clean as those lights are the prices aren't bad.