Olight S10 Baton (XM-L, 1xCR123A/RCR) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!

[Oztorchfreak]

I got the soldering iron onto the tailcap of my S10 today. I couldn't completely neutralize the magnet, but i'd say its strength is only about 10% of what it was before, so its not very strong, and only effective when placed very close to a metal object.

In case some of you guys don't know, I posted a link just recently where I emailed Olightworld about the Magnet Removal issue and they responded by telling me it is now on their website after a little prodding by myself in an email to them.

This solves all of the mysteries of the Magnet Removal Issue.

The link for this PDF file is available when you click on the right lower area where it states -

How to remove the magnet of S10 BATON---OLIGHT(2012.10.10)

Or just click on this link below.

http://olightworld.com/Upload/S10Baton-04394676259.pdf


Also there are details on the Olight Compensatory Scheme to get an Olight S10 tailcap with magnet removal abilities or an S10 White Traffic Wand from their local distributor.

Just click on this area and you will be taken to the Detailed explanation of the two options Olight is offering to its customers.





Cheers

 

[selfbuilt]

The link for this PDF file is available when you click on the right lower area where it states -
How to remove the magnet of S10 BATON---OLIGHT(2012.10.10)

Thanks for the link Oztorchfreak.

I have been in recent correspondence with Olight on the tailcap magnet issue. To clarify, the original batch of S10s had a non-user-removable magnet. More recent shipping versions have a modified spring design that allows the user to remove the magnet.

Olight has sent me a revised sample to examine. You can tell which version you have from the pics below (original shipping is on the left, current version is on the right).

In addition to the Olight instruction manual on their website, I have prepared a video showing you how to swap the magnet out. As always, you are likely to want to run this video at the higher 720p resolution for more detail.



In addition to the ability to now swap out the magnet, there are two signficant factors I've noticed with the new tailcap design (explained in the video). The first is that the new spring design introduces a slight rattle when handling the light (with the magnet installed). Secondly. while the magnetic pull is just as strong out the back of the tailcap, you can no longer pick up a battery by the spring on the inside of the cap.

Both of these are likely due to the spring not being as deeply/securely fastened inside the tailcap (i.e., it no longer seems to make direct contact with the magnet, hence the reduced magnetic pull through the spring). The rattle issue disappears if you swap the magnet out - the bundled o-ring is thicker than the magnet, and makes direct contact with the spring (dampening any movement). If you want to keep the magnet installed with the new design, I'm sure you could fully dampen the rattle with a thinner o-ring inserted under spring. An extra thin o-ring from a 1xAAA keychain light would probably do the trick.

For those of you with the original tailcap, you can contact your dealer to obtain a free replacement version with the removable spring. Alternatively, Olight is offering a free diffuser wand to those with the original tailcap who are happy to keep it. More details on this "Compensatory Scheme" are available on the Olight website.

Personally, I'm happy to see Olight's rapid response to this perceived issue. Hopefully the information (and video) above will help users decide how they want to proceed with the light. :wave:

 

[sspc]

Thanks selfbuilt for the IMR v. ICR info and the updates on the tailcap magnet. Now that I can be assured of getting the magnet out, there's nothing to stop me from buying this light.

 

[NewlandPhotography]

Does anyone elses S10 make a loud pitch noise when on? Mine does and it is really loud and annoying. If i smack the head a bit it stops.

 

[MattSPL]

Does anyone elses S10 make a loud pitch noise when on? Mine does and it is really loud and annoying. If i smack the head a bit it stops.

Mine does when the battery is nearly gone. It doesn't make a noise for long before an rcr123 runs out, but on a primary, it makes a noise for a lot longer.

 

[selfbuilt]

Mine does when the battery is nearly gone. It doesn't make a noise for long before an rcr123 runs out, but on a primary, it makes a noise for a lot longer.

Interesting. I just checked, and my S10 does make a high-pitched whine on Hi on a nearly dead CR123A. It is not very loud, but it is present. There is no noise on Lo/Med, or on any level on a fresh battery.

I suspect it is some sort of inductor whine. Inductor whine/hum is highly variable, and it is generally only noticeable at certain combinations of voltage and current draw (i.e., it's a resonance effect, so it depends on specific frequencies).

 

[MattSPL]

Interesting. I just checked, and my S10 does make a high-pitched whine on Hi on a nearly dead CR123A. It is not very loud, but it is present. There is no noise on Lo/Med, on any level on a fresh battery.

I suspect it is some sort of inductor whine. Inductor whine/hum is highly variable, and it is generally only noticeable at certain combinations of voltage and current draw (i.e., it's a resonance effect, so it depends on specific frequencies).

That's interesting that it only happens on high. It's quite handy for knowing when to turn off, or switch down to a lower level.

 

[IronMac]

Hi there,

Lot of good info here! I've just received my S10 and it has an "N" on the bottom rather than it being an "S" or simply blank.

What does that mean? Thanks!

 

[MattSPL]

Hi there,

Lot of good info here! I've just received my S10 and it has an "N" on the bottom rather than it being an "S" or simply blank.

What does that mean? Thanks!

Mine has an 'N' also. I think that means that you can't remove your magnet, but if you read a few posts above, you can get a new tailcap from Olight.

 

[jayflash]

The S10 has become my new pocket carry, replacing the unreliable (and already "repaired") 4/7 Q Mini123, too large HDS U60, and Nitecore EX10. The only small complaint I have is my ability to quickly locate and properly press the switch. My fingers are numb and calloused and my thumb is arthritic, so sometimes it takes a couple attempts. The tail cap switch on the others is an advantage in this one area.

The Baton consumes only 20mA on low, 200mA on medium (my most used level) and an amp on high. I'm impressed with the run time of an ordinary CR123 cell when used at the high level. The light - like a spider - sucks most of the juice from a primary cell, even on high.

 

[MattSPL]

Another great thing about the S10, i used it the other day on my mountain bike with a Lock block handle bar mount. It was raining very heavily, and me, my friend and the S10 would have been dryer swimming. The S10 performed flawlessly throughout.

 

[IronMac]

Mine has an 'N' also. I think that means that you can't remove your magnet, but if you read a few posts above, you can get a new tailcap from Olight.

Whew! Thanks for your reply. I was worried that I had rec'd some sort of knock-off that no one else had. I also listened to the video posted by Selfbuilt with regards to changing the magnet out and he mentioned the "N" being on some units.

To give a little back, this little light is quite "floody". I have a Jetbeam BA10(?) AA light which has a decent throw but nowhere near the amount of flood as the S10.

 

[MattSPL]

I just ran a Yezl rcr123 in the S10 until the light switched itself off. The cell voltage was 3.1v when I removed it. I'm quite happy with this, knowing I don't need to worry about running the cells too low, or tripping the protection circuit.

 

[tikket]

finally s10 came today.its very tiny. the pocket clip holds the light firm in my pocket but is so hard and makes scratches when you try to remove it.
The light is floody, very nice.Tint it has a little yellow or greenish i can't decide but looks great.
i ran a Yezl rcr123 about 10 minutes the light wasn't hot. It looks great!!
A very nice tiny light for every pocket!!very good choice.

 

[selfbuilt]

finally s10 came today.its very tiny. the pocket clip holds the light firm in my pocket but is so hard and makes scratches when you try to remove it.

Yes, that can be an issue with lights with very tight clips (like the S10). Something I do when worried this might happen is I coat the clip attachment point with teflon oil, and work it around a bit. When you go to pull the clip off, this minimizes the risk of scratching (although may not prevent it).

The light is floody, very nice.Tint it has a little yellow or greenish i can't decide but looks great.

Yes, both of my shipping samples were also at the green-yellow end of cool white. Not sure if there is a trend yet, or if it just variable. :shrug:

i ran a Yezl rcr123 about 10 minutes the light wasn't hot. It looks great!!

Yes, the S10 could be considered a good choice to run RCR in, as it keeps a nice regulated level (i.e., doesn't over-drive to much higher levels than CR123A). Of course, it also doesn't give you as much of an output boost, so it depends what you want in a light this size.

 

[tikket]

Yes, the S10 could be considered a good choice to run RCR in, as it keeps a nice regulated level (i.e., doesn't over-drive to much higher levels than CR123A). Of course, it also doesn't give you as much of an output boost, so it depends what you want in a light this size.

yes it has great runtimes with rcr and very good output for EDC use.is everithing you need.and very useful mooonlight mode.
I'm looking forward for another addition in my collection something higher not for EDC (hard to replace S10) but same size...i'm thinking PC10 or JetBeam RRT-01 or SWM V11R or Niteye eye10....and definetly need your help here...:naughty:

 

[selfbuilt]

yes it has great runtimes with rcr and very good output for EDC use.is everithing you need.and very useful mooonlight mode.
I'm looking forward for another addition in my collection something higher not for EDC (hard to replace S10) but same size...i'm thinking PC10 or JetBeam RRT-01 or SWM V11R or Niteye eye10....and definetly need your help here...:naughty:

Well, it's hard to find signficantly brighter in this size. The Eagletac D25C clicky with XM-L is the brightest direct-drive style RCR light I've tested so far. :shrug:

 

[tikket]

Well, it's hard to find signficantly brighter in this size. The Eagletac D25C clicky with XM-L is the brightest direct-drive style RCR light I've tested so far. :shrug:

But with Eagletac D25C clicky you loose high-med mode with rcr.you loose functionality. i'm thinking only one of 4 i mensioned above.

 

[Southpaw1925]

But with Eagletac D25C clicky you loose high-med mode with rcr.you loose functionality. i'm thinking only one of 4 i mensioned above.

But lowest mode is still there right??

 

[tikket]

But lowest mode is still there right??

yes the low is still there..