Recommendation for hiking flashlight

[daflip702]

Here's my setup on my last camping/fishing/hiking trip

Dereelight CL1H 3mode XRE-R2 SMO<--primary light belt holstered. This is my light for long distance. It mostly runs on Med mode. It's the brightest of the three(about 200 emitter lumens...don't quote me). It's also a P60 host that can use 18650 or RCR123.

Zebralight h501w<--All flood lightweight headlamp. Neutral tint. It has a 80degree projection so it has a bit of throw for a flood lamp(your peripheral vision will be a bit dark). This one stays on constantly or most of the time.

Nitecore D10 tribute<--This is my reliable backup that can do the Dereelight and Zebralight jobs(Not to specified extent). Actually this is my favorite light/EDC now. explained below.

Lightweight, 1xAA format size, bombproof, waterproof, deep pocket clip carry, versatile(lots of accessories can be had), ramping interface to dial in any brightness. Excellent regulation on eneloops. And so far, IMO, its best feature is a trit slot to find it in your pitch black tent (very handy when my girlfriend wakes up in the middle of the night and can't find the flashlight, only to wake me up to find it for her so she can go pee...ugh:sleepy:).

These are 3 that I carry on me at all times...never seem to notice that they are there until called upon. Also, the headlamp and backup runs on AA type batteries. This is really handy because if one goes out, the batteries are interchangeable. Since both use 1xAA, 4 spares can last a long time and they are very compact.

Also, all three can be had for $200 or less.

Others that I bring, but left at campsite/fish spot:
Nitecore EZAA with gorillapod magnetic<--to illuminate areas when needed.
LED Lenser P7 (yeah CPF'ers....I know)

Just remember the CPF rule: "Two flashlights are one....One is none."

 

[jiuong]

I too, recommend the Surefire G2X pro or 6PX pro. 15 lumens which is bright enough for a dark trail yet preserving your night vision and gives you up to 45 hours of run time. If needed there is the 200 lumens high mode. :thumbsup:

Or you might check out other light that Surefire has to offer (quite a few within your budget).

 

[wiiawiwb]

Here's what I'm thinking of getting.

• Quark Regular (or Tactical) R5 AA(2), 205 max lumens ~ $59
• HDS EDC Tactical Clicky 140 lumens ~ $149

They both have numerous output levels which I prefer. I also like that one is about 4" while the other is 6". The total is pretty close to what I was looking to spend.

I thought about doing the HDS Tactical 170 but wasn't sure about that.

Any comments, suggestions or advice about either of the two would be appreciated and thanks again.

 

[Belstaff1464]

Working within your budget, I would choose the HDS Clicky as my primary light and complement it with the Zebralight H31 or H30 headlamp. The Clicky meets all your criteria (with a F05 red filter) and it has a well-earned reputation for reliability and robustness. It is used by the Marines !! And its creator is an avid spelunker and a SAR volunteer IIRC. Thats why it's that durable - cavers' depend on their lights. It's versatility would take care of 95% of your lighting needs. On your budget you can either choose the 120 EDC ($99), the high CRI ($139), or the 140 lumen model ($139). The high CRI is not as powerful but it is favoured by photographers, paramedics, and naturalists for it's faithful rendering of colours. If this isn't a criteria, I'd say opt for the 140 lumen model. This will leave enough in the budget for the Zebralight H31 or H30 ($59). Either of these models will take care of the times when you need both hands free. They both use the same battery type as the Clicky (CR123). I think it's a good idea that your primary and back up light use the same battery. Both the HDS and Zebralights have multi-modes which make them very versatile and allows for very long runtimes. Depending on your usage, you can expect the Clickt to run for more than a month on the low settings.

If you want a bigger and brighter light, you may want to consider the Malkoff MD2 hi/lo ($149) instead of the HDS Clicky. It won't be as versatile because it only has 2 levels (the Clicky has 4 presets that you can program to your specific requirements). The high is 260 lumens and the low is around 40 lumens. I find the low still too powerful for close up work (e.g. Reading a map). I don't know what filter would suit this particular light but I'm sure there will be something available.

I think you'll find that the HDS Clicky and the Zebralight H31 will cover all your lighting needs.

 

[Belstaff1464]

Here's what I'm thinking of getting.

• Quark Regular (or Tactical) R5 AA(2), 205 max lumens ~ $59
• HDS EDC Tactical Clicky 140 lumens ~ $149

They both have numerous output levels which I prefer. I also like that one is about 4" while the other is 6". The total is pretty close to what I was looking to spend.

I thought about doing the HDS Tactical 170 but wasn't sure about that.

Any comments, suggestions or advice about either of the two would be appreciated and thanks again.

See my previous post regarding keeping the battery of your primary and backup the same. Also, I think you really should consider a dedicated headlamp. The good thing with the Z lights is they can be hand held if required. The H30/31 are directional headlamps, i.e. You can rotate them in their holder and have it point down or up if you so desire. Standard lights can be used as impromptu headlamps by strapping it to the side of your head, but they will always point directly ahead. There are some tasks where the head is upright but the eyes look down, e.g. Reading a book, food preparation, etc. Impromptu headlights won't suffice in those situations.

If your budget will stretch, by all means get the 170 tactical Clicky. It is more versatile than the 140 because of the greater range. Keep in mind that there won't be a lot of competing sources of light on the trail so you won't need much light. It maybe more prudent to get the 140 and spend the difference on the F05 red filter and some batteries. Just a suggestion.


p.s. There's no functional difference between the Executive and Tactical Clickies. The Tacs have black bezels & raised buttons, and the Executive has polished stainless steel bezels & flush switch. The Tac can be programmed exactly like an Exec and vice versa. If budget is tight, get the Exec models because they are cheaper than the Tacticals.


p.p.s. You may also want to consider an LED lantern for general illumination.

 

[pjandyho]

As what some have stated, you will need at least two lights. A flashlight and a headlamp makes a very good combination. Also, a big +1 to all recommendation for a HDS EDC clicky and a Zebralight headlamp.

It seems like you are most likely set on a HDS EDC clicky so this post from me is not to convince you on what to get for your trekking needs but rather to help you decide on which HDS clicky you may want to cover your trekking needs.

Personally, I always have a 170 lumen EDC tactical and a 100 lumen EDC High CRI with me when I go for my trekking. The 170 tactical is a very good moderate range throw light and if you have budget for only one HDS light then I would suggest you keep to the 170 tactical to cover all your needs. You could always get a Surefire F04 beam diffuser for making the 170 tactical a complete flood for times when you needed it, and also a Surefire F05 Red filter based on your required needs. I have to stress that a red filter might not work very well on an LED light source since LED does not produce a full spectrum like what an incandescent does. What you get may be an orange glow instead of red but I guess it is still better than a complete white if you want to preserve night vision.

If colors are more important to you, I strongly recommend the 100 lumens high CRI clicky. This is my favorite for all my trekking needs and I use it 95% of the time. It is not as bight and does not throw as far as the 170 lumens tactical (it is a flood light) but it is no slouch either in a dark outdoor environment, an environment which I am sure you are always in when out trekking.

If you are unsure what you would need, maybe a look at these photos that I have put up would help you decide better.

I would urge you to consider getting a headlamp as a second light, and a Zebralight H31 (cool white), or a H31w (neutral white which is a warmer tint like the high CRI) would make a very good choice for times when both your hands are occupied. I have just acquired a Zebralight headlamp and wonder how I could ever have done all my night trekking and camping without one previously.

You should keep to primary CR123 lithium batteries instead of rechargeable. I know they are more expensive than AA but Surefire, 4sevens, and some dealers here do sell them at very cheap prices compared to what you see in those brick and mortar stores. The reason in sticking to primary CR123 lithium batteries is that they are more stable, has a 10 years shelf-life, and has a higher boost output. Very important since you mentioned that you hardly use your lights and you may not want to have to keep remembering to charge those rechargeable batteries. Unlike primary lithium batteries, rechargeable batteries don't hold their charge as well and looses power over time and I am sure you wouldn't want to leave your house knowing that you have forgotten to charge up those batteries.

Again, since you said you will most likely use your lights like 4 times a year, avoid alkaline batteries if you should buy any AA powered lights. Alkaline batteries are not really suitable for use in high powered and high drain flashlights and does not hold regulation and charge well when used in these devices. The other drawback is that alkaline may leak in your more than $100 flashlight and damage it, surely you wouldn't want that to happen right? If you seriously have to buy an AA powered light, again keep to lithium AA batteries.

Happy shopping. :wave:

 

[Yucca Patrol]

You don't need to spend $200 for your basic needs.

I'd got with a 2xAA powered multi-mode flashlight.

Chances are that you probably carry a device such as a GPS that also uses AA batteries so you can swap them out as needed, and they are so readily available that it is always easy to have spares, even if you have to buy them at a convenience store on the way to the trail.

As just an example, the Fenix LD20 can run at its 9 lumen low mode for 71 hours, but can bump up to 205 lumens when you really need to pump out some light for a shorter time.

Certainly there are more expensive and fancier flashlights (believe me, I have lots of them), but my old predecessor to the LD20, the LD2 is a constant resident of my day pack emergency kit.

Going with more expensive battery types will just complicate matters for you if all you really need is 1 decent reliable flashlight. But if you want to dive into expensive high-end lights, you won't be sorry either.

 

[Cataract]

Sounds like you want a setup in case you're coming back late and another one for leaving late. It also sounds like you don't necessarily hang around flat urban trails.

You don't need a lot of light if you know where you're going. I've hiked with less than 50 lumens countless times. If you need to see markers, or spot where different trails might lead, you will definitely need something with a little throw and over 100 lumens.

I personally find that neutral emitters are better for color rendition, but any flashlight that is strong enough will get you out of there. Neutral is just more pleasant.

I agree with the general idea that AA's are much easier to find if the only place for batteries is a gas station or small town stores. However, having a bunch of spares is just much better, since you can bring those too on your hike and rotate if you're not sure how much juice is left in them.

My emergency backup for when I might just come back late is the smallest possible, since I like mountains and every ounce does count. I normally carry one of the following, plus the most compact head lamp I can put my hands on (currently a ROV sportsman extreme):
Fenix LD15
Quark Mini 123

When I head out late, I want to carry something bigger with more modes and much better runtimes. In those situations, I don't mind the bigger guns and bring at least two flashlights and my Fenix head lamp (HP10). Sometimes I'll just take the Fenix Headband, which can hold any LD or PD series lights.

- I like to have at least one compact light for holding in my hands a long time:
Quark AA, Quark 123 or Fenix PD30 (the PD20 will only give high mode with RCR 123's)

-I also always have a second flashlight for more throw (and backup as well) and use one of the following:
Fenix TK11
Fenix TK20 (neutral emitter and AA batteries, an all-time favorite here)
Quark Turbo (haven't tried this one yet in the woods)

From your description, I would recommend you look at the Fenix and 4Sevens line of flashlights and go for two, which will fit nicely in your budget. The best way te be satisfied is shop around for yourself after listening to CPFer's opinions. You're the one who knows how you'll be using it.

:welcome:

 

[Marathonman]

Fenix TK15 looks very promising for his use.

 

[earthlight]

Two is one, one is none.

I too like quality products but regardless of the price a backup is always good to have. I would invest in a headlamp and a normal flashlight. Fenix makes good stuff. If you want a light backup, I can recommend the Fenix LD15. I carry mine everywhere with my keys (E01 as a backup).

For forest walking the Fenix TK45 is extremely nice, but not the smallest lamp around.

Earthlight

 

[B0wz3r]

+1 here to everything Cataract said. You don't need to rely on 123's as now days with modern AA primaries and the newest lights that are coming out, even the voltage difference is a non issue. The Zebralight H51/SC51 does 200 lumens OTF on a single AA nimh. The shelf life is a non-issue as well if you buy L91 lithiums (Energizer Ultimate Lithium). These can also be bought in larger quantities online at lower prices, so they are still cheaper than 123's. The mah ratings are also the same so there is no energy density advantage to 123's either.

The most important thing though, regardless of which format you choose, is to try to standardize on that format. Having to deal with multiple cell formats will significantly limit your options in a sticky situation. I've chosen to go with AA's as most modern LED lights are bright enough that the format doesn't really matter, and I have two kids with lots of toys that need AA's, and all sorts of other electronic devices also use the AA format now. So in short, take this for what you feel it's worth; of course, YMMV.

Sounds like you want a setup in case you're coming back late and another one for leaving late. It also sounds like you don't necessarily hang around flat urban trails.

You don't need a lot of light if you know where you're going. I've hiked with less than 50 lumens countless times. If you need to see markers, or spot where different trails might lead, you will definitely need something with a little throw and over 100 lumens.

I personally find that neutral emitters are better for color rendition, but any flashlight that is strong enough will get you out of there. Neutral is just more pleasant.

I agree with the general idea that AA's are much easier to find if the only place for batteries is a gas station or small town stores. However, having a bunch of spares is just much better, since you can bring those too on your hike and rotate if you're not sure how much juice is left in them.

My emergency backup for when I might just come back late is the smallest possible, since I like mountains and every ounce does count. I normally carry one of the following, plus the most compact head lamp I can put my hands on (currently a ROV sportsman extreme):
Fenix LD15
Quark Mini 123

When I head out late, I want to carry something bigger with more modes and much better runtimes. In those situations, I don't mind the bigger guns and bring at least two flashlights and my Fenix head lamp (HP10). Sometimes I'll just take the Fenix Headband, which can hold any LD or PD series lights.

- I like to have at least one compact light for holding in my hands a long time:
Quark AA, Quark 123 or Fenix PD30 (the PD20 will only give high mode with RCR 123's)

-I also always have a second flashlight for more throw (and backup as well) and use one of the following:
Fenix TK11
Fenix TK20 (neutral emitter and AA batteries, an all-time favorite here)
Quark Turbo (haven't tried this one yet in the woods)

From your description, I would recommend you look at the Fenix and 4Sevens line of flashlights and go for two, which will fit nicely in your budget. The best way te be satisfied is shop around for yourself after listening to CPFer's opinions. You're the one who knows how you'll be using it.

:welcome:

 

[munkybiz_9881]

Wow, as always there are a lot of different ideas right here.

I'm an avid hiker/camper and here are my suggestions:

I, as many here, usually carry several different lights when I go into the outdoors for extended periods. But If were to only ever take just one it would be the Surefire E2L for many reasons.

Here are a few of them:

1. I trust it completely!

2. Super long runtime on low(which is more than bright enough for most any task at night) close to 100 hours on primaries. This light comes on low first-Always! I can feel better about only bringing one set of backup batteries if Im packing light, and have a good feeling knowign the E2L on low wont crap the batteries out halfway into the second night stuck in a snow storm.

3. On high this thing throws very well thanks to the TIR optic, and still will give several hours runtime, You can search for things at a good distance easily.

4. Built like a tank, droping on rocks shouldn't bother it. Good knurling to grip in cold and wet conditions.

5. Good weather resistance, dropping it in the river, lake, stream or whatever, shouldn't hurt it at all.

6. Should something every happen to it a quick call to Surefire will most likely resolve your problem. Their warranty dept is top notch.

7. CR123's offer long storage life, about 10 years, and work in sub zero temperatures!!!!!! Bought online they are pretty cheap, most of the time cheaper than Lithium AA cells, and you can stock up since they will store for so long. If your stuck on AA cells only, they make an E2l AA now, and Lithium AA will also work in very cold climates.

8) Simple User interface, nothing fancy, Low and High what more do you need. No tripping through mode after mode to find what your looking for, wasting battery life. No Parasitic curcuits to drain your batteries while they are being stored (nothing upsets me more than picking up a dead flashlight when I need it). Lock out tailcap is nice piece of mind when throwing your light in a ruck sack.

And they make red filters for these.

And heres another good reason to buy an E2L, They still make parts for them. This is huge. I have owned about 100 other lights and have fallin into the newest and best trap before, Many times actually. Thing is about the "trend lights" is they are upgraded so often that a trendly light will be outdated in no time.

The E2L is also adaptable, as "E" series surefire lights will interchange parts from other lights and lots of custom lights are based off the E series concept. This does a couple of things;

1) It makes available other parts that aren't maunufactured by surefire

2) These things hold their value very well and are desireable for their Legoabilty. The marketplace is full of them, although they don't last long there as people buy them up pretty quick. One can probably be bought for around $90 shipped to you in good used condition.

There are plenty of lights out there that have more adapted (complicated)user interfaces and better battery life and are smaller, etc. and so on....But this is just a well rounded light that you can have confidence in and will perform all the tasks you ask of it.

There are also other very good lights out there, some have been mentioned in this thread already. The E2L is simply what I use and trust.


So take it for what it's worth, One Mans Opinion.

But hear this---------I once just came on Candle Power Forums to do exactly ar you, simply find (1) good light for hiking and LEO use. And I have now owned over 100 different lights thanks to this dreadful place:nana:.

So its a good chance you'll be a regular to someday, Plan accordingly

Welcome to CPF!

(wow, that got pretty long in a hurry, sorry bout that)

 

[Gatsby]

Yep - hang on to your wallet...

I won't add much to the discussion other than to re-iterate several points already made.

Get a headlamp. I never was a believer until a friend gave me a Petzl Tikkina. This isn't even a great headlamp but with two 5mm leds I've found it to be incredibly useful and it goes on any expedition from the mountains to the beach to my wife's triathlons (I'm bike tech at 5:30am!). I'm going to upgrade to a Zebralight at some point.

My first reaction was as many, two is one and one is none so budget two lights. In addition to your headlamp. And make the batteries compatible.

As for the lights themselves - there are many, many choices that will theoretically work. But if I had to count on it working in survival conditions, and that is what you have to plan for in a wilderness setting, I'd go with an HDS/RA or a Surefire - or both actually.

Personally I'd think about a G2X Pro and an HDS/RA Clickie which would be right at your budget. I'd probably also consider the E2L or E1L but those with a Clickie will be over your budget, although probably my ideal setup.

The E2L is a bit of a sleeper - 9 hours of rock solid regulated light (maybe Surefire's best regulated light) on high and, well, a lot more than you'll need likely on low. Good usable levels with decent spacing. Low is a great task level and high is good for most normal uses and the TIR optics make it throw better than some so your spotting abilities are better than many comparable output lights.

But the HDS/RA Clickie is equally durable and arguably will give you same output choices as the G2X and E2L combined. And you can add a 17670 tube if you really do want additional runtime that the single cell won't give you.

If I only got one flashlight it would be the HDS/RA Clickie by a nose.

 

[funkymonkey1111]

Malkoff MD2 (2 level) w/ a M61L. ALL you'll ever need.

My .02 FWIW YMMV

This plus a headlight is my setup.

 

[dero]

My "24-hour" pack, which I take hiking with me, has a Jetbeam Jet-III M in it. Has 2 modes, one is High, one is programmable. The programmable mode can be set at any brightness (ramps from 1% to 100%) or can be a beacon or strobe mode. You can set the secondary mode to be "just bright enough" to get you the most battery life that you can from the minimum brightness you need. It will run on 2xCR123 or an 18650. I carry a spare 18650, with a solar charger - just in case.

It's built like the proverbial kiln-fired ceramic block outdoor water closet, and it's waterproof.

Mine's an old, XR-E Q5 model and is bright enough, but the new XP-G R5 model is significantly brighter again, with all the same features.

Would you mind telling me what solar charging set up you run?

 

[casebomber]

I don't like to carry a lot of redundant items as to save weight and am always looking for value, so my preference would go an ld10 (single aa) with the fenix headband, diffuser wand in place of a lantern, and a red filter. Any double cell light will be awkward to have on the headlamp as I have tried the ld20. Also i carry the maratac aaa as it's clip can be reversed and can be used as a headlamp clipped to a hat when my girlfriend forgets to bring her flashlight! Lithiums sound like the way to go for cold weather/long storage. My fenix is also very useful for night bike riding paired with a non-fenix bike mount. No matter what I'm doing I always have at least one extra battery for each light, so it doesn't matter to me that the batteries are interchangeable. I can't speak to the higher end lights as they are not in my budget, I must buy other gear as well!

 

[GPB]

I may have my CPF credentials revoked for saying this, but here goes....

I don't think you need a spectacular light ( "need" being the key word ). You're getting by right now without one, so anything you get is going to be an improvement. An LED mini-mag would offer you a high and a low, long run time, common battery, adequate durability, sufficient weatherproofing and would only cost about 20 bucks. ( these comments don't apply to law enforcement/military/emergency services, etc )

I'm a big fan of great lights, but I know I get them because I want them, not because I need them. My recommendation would be to see what else you carry that requires batteries and match that format. As others have said, it'll give you more options. Then go buy a fairly cheap light and use it. Use it to walk to your car after work. Go walk around your house at night. Go get something in the garage using your flashlight instead of the overhead lights. Take it to the mailbox. Eventually you'll start to say "this is great, but I wish...." You'll find your preference for spot vs flood, size vs run time, tailcap switch or barrel switch, reverse clickie or forward clickie, and so on. Then you go and get another light that has the features you've found a preference for. The people here have a vast array of knowledge about almost every light out there, but only you know what's important to you.

Could you imagine going to an internet forum and saying " I need a date for the office Christmas party, should I take a redhead or a blonde ? a short one or a tall one ? Picking a light isn't that different.

 

[jsr]

As mentioned, I recommend a head light and a hand light.

For the headlight, any of the zebralights will be great. Just pick the one that matches the battery type of your hand light.

for the hand light, I don't like single cell lights for night trekking. Two cell lights are easier to hold and have much longer runtimes. I recommend any of the following:

123 format
Quark 123-2
Eagletac P20C2
Jetbeam JetIII M
Dereelight CL1H

AA format
Quark AA-2
Eagletac P100A2
Dereelight javelin

definitely go with a lithium primary as they will not self drain in you. As for AA vs. 123: while LEDs have gotten to the point where normal AAs or NiMH are very bright, 123 versions will still be brighter when you're talking about a single cell. For mutil-cell lights,123 versions will run more efficiently as higher voltage increases efficiency of the driver circuits and reduces current draw for less waste heat. However, for your needs the difference in performance will be of little concern for you so either formats will work.

The 2 light setup I listed will cost you about $130 total and have longer runtime than single cell setups at euivalent output settings. And always carry a bunch of cells with you.

 

[Belstaff1464]

Maverick..."If the government trusts me, maybe you could too".

Many Marine companies use HDS clickies. As a former Marine, I have had the opportunity to use Henry's lights in just about the worst situations I could possibly dream up. The HDS Clicky meets all your requirements...and then some.

One of the most functional features of an HDS Clicky is the ability to program the light for a locator flash. While turned off, the Clicky will blink once about very four seconds. On a fresh battery, it could last for 3 years or more! If you order a $7 Nitecore or 4sevens headband, you can mount the light on your head and it will work as a headlight too.

hdslights.com. $140 to $180ish. Lifetime warranty and fantastic customer service.

Thanks for that bit of info plus your first hand account as a Marine. I knew the Clicky have been issued to military peronnel but I didn't realize it was the Marines.

BTW, the base model Clicky is $99 (EDC Executive, 120 lumens). Best Bang For Your Buck, imho.

 

[Burgess]

Could you imagine going to an internet forum and saying " I need a date for the office Christmas party,
should I take a redhead or a blonde ? a short one or a tall one ? Picking a light isn't that different.

Buy BOTH ! ! ! :naughty:


Two is One, and One is None !


Having a reliable Backup can be Very comforting and reassuring !


:devil:

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