[Review] ULTRATAC K18 (XP-G2 S2, 1x AAA / 1x 10440)

[kreisl]

i got the polished version now and since i like it so much i feel motivated to share my own quick thoughts.

weight measurements on my +1g kitchen scale, feel free to compare with official specs:
O'Pen : 22g (w/ preinstalled clip)
LD12G2: 52g (w/ preinstalled clip)
LD01 : 14g (w/o clip)
LD01SS: 35g (w/ mini split ring)
TiS : 24g (w/o keychain, w/o clip), 26g (w/ keychain, w/o clip)
MiX6SS: 17g
WormSS: 27g
SP11SS: 23g (w/ mini split ring)
K18SS : 30g (w/ preinstalled clip)

what's not so good:
- arbitrary alignment of tail loop versus switch location (EDIT: i got perfect alignment on my 2nd K18SS unit!!)
- clip was preinstalled, hmm.
- clip is same as in other lights (Olight AAA, TiS). i won't use it because i don't think that it attaches securely to the light or that it can withstand notable force. there are several reports of similar clips getting lost or breaking off. yes you can attach it nicely to a shirt pocket, but i wouldn't seriously try it on a hat (baseball cap) and for sure(!!) not clipped to pants pockets. clearly, Olight AAA/TiS/K18 pocket clips are not strong clips in any respect.
- weight. imho unacceptable for actual keychain carry. my personal limit was reached at 23g. (EDIT: i got a 2nd unit and have started to EDC it, we'll see)
- i don't believe in the durability or longevity of the switch rubber; it's just a believe though.
- switch rubber 'MODE'-label is misaligned (as seen in the review). that's nitpicking, though. (EDIT: it's perfectly straight aligned on my 2nd K18SS unit!!)

what's not so bad imho:
- the arbitrary alignment of tail loop versus switch location isn't so bad because the threads are not anodized, which means that one does not need to fully tighten the head! posers like kreisl could simply twist the body a bit until perfect alignment is reached.
- general looks. has similarities to LF2XT
- polished like TiS
- tail. looked shocking on pictures but is cute & unimposing in RL. was a concern, not anymore.
- in theory as long as LD01 but feels shorter
- PWM in Low and Med. easily detected thru rapid hand fan movement. it is high frequency but ppl who really hate PWM at any frequency level should steer clear. it's high frequency, so it's not bad. i've seen higher frequencies though in other PWM lights!
- my protected grey UF 10440's don't fit. their length is 47.03-47.11mm. but it's not too bad because a copper washer (conductive spacer ring) is not needed since the threads are not anodized
- clip is, in theory, reversable. in practice, i wouldn't rely on the clip; it's not as strong as a Fenix LD01 clip. it's not so bad because for keychain duty i have removed the clip. i could leave the clip on for decorative function but i would not dare to use it/rely on it other than for office shirt carry.
- premium-like packaging. includes generous set of accessories (see also comment on o-rings).
- from UPz's review: good efficiency on NiMH and 10440. There is a handful of lights (like Maratac Copper AAA) with higher efficiency on NiMH but except for the D25AAA none of them is compatible with 10440's.
- all 3 supplied o-rings (1 installed, 2 spares) were imo too small. o-ring thickness should be 1.0mm, agreed. However the correctly fitting o-ring size would be 9.0×11.0×0.95mm (tested, OK), 9.0×11.0×1.05mm (tested, OK), 10.0×12.0×0.95mm (tested, OK), or even 10.0×12.0×1.05mm (untested, assumed OK). Luckily i found such an o-ring in one of the small accessory bags of my AAA lights, so it's not so bad. (EDIT: my 2nd unit came with 10x12x1mm o-rings, perfect!)
- my polished version deserves a mini pouch/holster/case. i got 2 copies of the very well-made well-built Eoslamp pouch, it's a perfect fit. that mini holster would be suitable for belt carry but i use my flashlight holsters only for bag carry. the entire product exudes premium feel, so why not include such a mini holster in the packaging? since the Eoslamp pouch isn't soft, it does leave micro scratches in the polished finish, hmm.
- has a serial number printing. nice touch.
- new brand by a young company. who knows if they'll still be around in a year or if anyone cares then. says 2.0yrs warranty. choice of brand name unfortunate, UltraTac almost sounds like UltraFire which is an old and infamous brand.
- tailcap lockout or head lockout is not possible because the threads are not anodized. only electronic lockout is possible: double-click from OFF state. I'd prefer triple-click for reactivation, as seen on Nitecore D11.2 flashlights.
- the light has mechanical reverse polarity protection, meaning that the plus(+) metal contact of the driver disc won't be touched/reached by the negative(-) flat terminal of the AAA battery. In other words, if a battery is reversely inserted, there will be no voltage (right direction voltage nor reverse direction voltage!) connected to the driver disc. The driver disc will be "voltage-free". However, since the threads are not anodized and the spacer ring is conductive (looks like a brass ring or so), a reversely installed Eneloop will be shorted. I have tested it! Basically, your battery (Eneloop) will be harmed, but not the flashlight itself.
- max. brightness on Eneloop is spec'ed as "110lm" (UPz had measured 97.9lm 30sec after activation on a full battery). I can tell from visuals that K12SS("110lm") < TiS-nw ("120lm"). TiS-nw is notably brighter than K12SS, both on Eneloop. But "120lm" are spec'ed for "0.5h" runtime whereas the "110lm" for 1 hour" (UPz had measured ~55min). So yes, the TiS-nw is brighter during its entire runtime period but its runtime is also notably shorter than the 55min.
- 2.0yrs warranty. unbelievable.

what makes this a winner, a keeper forever:
+ precise concentric boring. thickness of male threads, measured at 4 spots (spaced 90° apart) around the circumference: 1.12mm/1.11mm/1.12mm/1.11mm, i.e. tolerance of ±0.005mm.
+ in general, exquisite machining, with rounded edges everywhere
+ silky smooth threads, "no" head wobbliness (well, compared to competitive lights).
+ protected 10440's of any length work since the threads are not anodized. no copper washer needed!
+ perfectly centered LED, perfect beam profile, no artifacts, no (pronounced) corona
+ best tint. no greens, no yellows. tint looks uniformly one color: antarctic cool white (=artificial pure white with purplish spill). i've seen this kind of tint on other XP-G2 cw AA lights before (d25a clicky ti xp-g2 cw, T10S xp-g2 cw) but it's the first time that i see it on an AAA light.
+ no tint shift on Low and Med. probably due to the PWM?
+ super bright on 10440's and nothing to sneeze at on NiMH.
+ absolutely likable, from the beginning to the end
+ what adds to the likability is its affordable retail price. i feel different, less enthused about a great product, if i pay much money, an unfair price for it, but that's just me.

I don't care for anodized keychain lights anymore. I retired my beloved black LD01, a 40$ flashlight om*g!, a while ago when i noticed abrasion of the anodization, and even the E09 cheapo is too nice to be banged up. So now i am all in for SS AAA lights, copper and titanium aside. The TiS starts with Firefly and it is a hassle to twist thru the modes with 2 hands until you're in High mode. However it is a winner and keeper for its great NiMH performance, very light SS weight, beautiful NW tint, and popularity, i might rank it even higher than the K18SS.

I wouldn't enjoy the K18 in anodized version but in SS it's imho a completely different game. To sum up the most striking points, the K18SS is a keeper for its bright beam, superb tint performance, pretty good driver efficiency, amazing build quality/machining — all Pro's which it shares with the TiS xp-g2 nw — and what makes it extraordinary are: the UI (incl. 1-handed operation and mode memory), official support of 10440, and lucky support of protected 10440's. In RL/in practice, the length, the tail loop, the clip (100% identical to TiS clip!), the PWM are imho of no concern. The only grave downside to be called out is imo the weight. My personal limit for actual EDC keychain duty was 23g (without battery) and i can indeedy feel if the light weighs 27g, 30g, or crazy 35g instead. Luckily a blue unprotected Ultrafire 10440 weighs only 8.5g, as opposed to Eneloop AAA with 11.7g, which accounts for a 3.2g difference.

SP11SS+Eneloop = 23g + 11.7g = ~34.7g
K18SS+UF10440 = 30g + 8.5g = ~38.5g
=> weight difference ~3.8g or 11% increase. Okay, that sounds acceptable on paper, i could live it.

Bottom line is, my K18SS is going to stay in my collection Pelican case most of the time. I will carry it sometimes in shirt or jacket pocket when i plan to use it that night, e.g. for showing off, showing to friends.

I highly appreciate the existence of this SS light, am thankful for the successful creation. I bought my unit from HKE thru ebay and i am thinking of getting another unit to see how it holds up during actual keychain duty. Btw i also own 2 units of TiS, both in mint condition.

 

[F. Premens]

UPz, do you know if they are going to make a Ti version?

 

[Gryffin]

UPz, do you know if they are going to make a Ti version?

I hope not. As hard as they push the LED @ 3.7v, stainless steel isn't really a great idea, titanium would be a Really Bad Idea. The only way to dissipate that amount of heat would be copper or aluminum and the good grip of a fleshy hand.

 

[_UPz]

UPz, do you know if they are going to make a Ti version?

AFAIK, they planned to launch Stainless Steel & Brass solid versions as well as Nickel & Gold platted versions. Copper version was also discussed, but not sure if they will go for it or not.

 

[_UPz]

Hello Upz,
nice review .
I have ordered black one Ultratac for myself and I would to buy red one as a gift. But in the pictures It looks little orange, something between. Can someone confirm real color of this version, please?

Thanks!
Sorry, at the moment I only have the black anodized unit. Hope someone can help!

 

[_UPz]

...

wow, mate. Impressive post, thanks for sharing!
Looks like you have now a new AAA winner, isn't it? :nana:

 

[Paul6ppca]

I got the polished version yesterday as well, it seems like a great light, for me it will be a great EDC to supplement my keychain cooyoo quantum. Both are compact and easy to carry.

I like the positive feel for the switch, one of the best new electronic switch feel I have used.
- switch rubber 'MODE'-label is misaligned (Not on mine, it appears even).

It is unbelievably bright on high, gets warm not too hot when running it for a few minutes. Great tint on mine, great build, simple easy to use UI, love that it has memory and 10440 support! silky smooth threads.

 

[kreisl]

Looks like you have now a new AAA winner, isn't it? :nana:

I'm by now the biggest fan of this particular model, the SS, not the aluminum.
Fenix had charged 49.95€ for the LD01SS, so the low price of K18SS is part of the enjoyment. But even at 49.95€ i would prefer it to my esteemed LD01SS. All LD01SS XP-G R5 have super poor green (or green-yellow) CW tints.

I have a big collection of prominent China made mass-produced AAA flashlights and i would venture to claim that this will prove as my #1 favorite, my #1 best light among them. Yes, the winner.

And there is no need or point to determine which one is the winner or must-have between TiS xp-g2 nw and K18SS xp-g2 cw. Both are handsomely affordable and both are must-haves imho. And i would ditch, sell all my other AAA lights for them without looking back, including cremes de la creme like my MiX6SS, MiX6Ti, D25AAA, EoslampSS, LD01, LD01SS, ES12, Preon's, Olight i3's, WormSS, DQG AAA's.

We'll see how the rubber boot holds up.

I am sure that american-made Titanium AAA lights, Maratac AAA, maybe Surefire AAA are great too .. but this is where my search and wanting ends. The Ultratac leaves nothing to be desired on a keychain (where i won't leave the clip on) and why pay more? A no brainer.

"The search ends here." - That's what i had said 4 years ago when i finally got hold of the LD01. Maybe in another 4 years there will something better and more desirable than K18SS but how much better can it get? I hardly mentioned in my 'review' the greatness and convenience of the side switch because it's too obvious, that's where it all starts: of course a side-switch is more convenient, comfortable, likable than a twisty. 1-handed operation vs. 2-handed operation. So great and so obvious!

I'm going to get more units of the K18SS. Can't get enough of it. And all that greatness for such a low price. Crazy!
Party time!!

 

[KITROBASKIN]

Sometimes a side switch can take extra time to find (activate or extinguish), as opposed to a tail switch. Have any of you owners discovered a technique, whether with flashlight light placement, or a strategy to avoid excess time searching for the side switch?

 

[Blue Steel]

Have any of you owners discovered a technique, whether with flashlight light placement, or a strategy to avoid excess time searching for the side switch?

For the 18650 lights I own that have a side switch, I usually put the pocket clip on the opposite side. This way when I hold the light, my four fingers grip the pocket clip and my thumb rests naturally where the side switch is located. This should work with AAAs, as well.

 

[Gryffin]

For the 18650 lights I own that have a side switch, I usually put the pocket clip on the opposite side. This way when I hold the light, my four fingers grip the pocket clip and my thumb rests naturally where the side switch is located. This should work with AAAs, as well.

I don't own that many side-switch lights, but I prefer to put the switch and clip 90° apart. That way, when clipped in a pocket, the button isn't pressed against the wall of the pocket *or* against whatever else is in the pocket, it's facing to the side. It's worked for me so far.

Since AAA lights are so much smaller, I don't think your method would position your thumb the same way. In fact, while I'm still waiting on mine, I plan to line up the clip with the switch. I figure when I grip it, the clip will index between my fingertips and palm, in line with my thumb; also, the clip might provide some protection against accidental activation of the button, since I see this as a keychain light, with the clip mostly there for roll prevention.

 

[moodysj]

Would love to see the performance on a Energizer ultimate lithium primary

 

[Blue Steel]

I don't think your method would position your thumb the same way.

It might not depending on the way you would carry it. I hardly attach the lights to my pocket. The smallest side switch light I own is the Olight S1; it works just fine the way I described it, but that is just my preference.

 

[Capolini]

I just ordered the light. I already have Efest IMR 10440's.

Notice how much better it does[according to the reviewer] than the LIR 10440!! @ 18 minutes it will be approx. 270 lumens when the LIR battery will be around 35 Lumens! Sounds too good to be true!

I hope I read the chart right,,,If 2000=360L then 1500=270L, 1000=180L ,,ect.

 

[kreisl]

I just ordered the light. I already have Efest IMR 10440's.

Notice how much better it does[according to the reviewer] than the LIR 10440!! @ 18 minutes it will be approx. 270 lumens when the LIR battery will be around 35 Lumens! Sounds too good to be true!

I hope I read the chart right,,,If 2000=360L then 1500=270L, 1000=180L ,,ect.

What is LIR 10440? What is 2000, 1500, 1000? Wrong thread?

The chart shows that after 18mins on a 10440 the K18 outputs 35 lumens, i.e. it is as bright as a Fenix light with a 35lm ANSI FL-1 specification.

 

[Capolini]

What is LIR 10440? What is 2000, 1500, 1000? Wrong thread?

The chart shows that after 18mins on a 10440 the K18 outputs 35 lumens, i.e. it is as bright as a Fenix light with a 35lm ANSI FL-1 specification.

I am not sure if it is the LIR 10440 he used,maybe another cheap 320Mah 10440 cell..anyway look at the chart in my post # 34 and see how much better the Efest IMR 10440 performs compared to the 320Mah 10440 UPZ uses!

see post # 8 in the thread below,same graphs I posted in my post # 34! The 2000, 1500 and 1000 are the numbers on the left side of his graph that i estimated to its lumen output!


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-(XP-G2-S2-1xAAA-Ni-MH-Alkaline-Li-ion)-Revie

 

[Capolini]

SO ARE THE THREADS ANODIZED OR NOT????

Quote from kreisl below:


what's not so bad imho:
- the arbitrary alignment of tail loop versus switch location isn't so bad because the threads are not anodized, which means that one does not need to fully tighten the head! posers like kreisl could simply twist the body a bit until perfect alignment is reached.


Quote from candle lamp review:


The screw threads are triangular-cut of good quality. Threads are well machined, and anodized which allows the light to be locked-out. As supplied, threads are lubricated. Screw threads action is smooth with no cross-threading or squeaking in my sample.
.

 

[gunga]

Kreisl has the stainless one. You didn't see that? He mentioned it like 6 times.

 

[Dubois]

SO ARE THE THREADS ANODIZED OR NOT????

Don't forget kreisl has the SS version.

edit>> woops, gunga beat me to it.

 

[Capolini]

Kreisl has the stainless one. You didn't see that? He mentioned it like 6 times.

I would not have asked if I saw that! I did not read his entire post,,,,,I may still be reading it!

Anyway,hopefully he sees what I am saying about the different batteries and the corresponding charts.